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REFERENCE BOOK

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33d Congkbss, I HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. < Ex. Doc.

2d Session. \ ( No. 91.

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REPORTS

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS,

ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE AND ECONOMICAL ROUTE FOR A RAILROAD

FROM THE

MISSISSIPPI RIYER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

MADE UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, IN

1853-4,

ACCORDING TO ACTS OF CONGRESS OF MARCH 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854, AND AUGUST 5, 1854.

VOLUME III.

WASHINGTON:

A. O. P. NICHOLSON, PRINTER.
1856.

1 I

IN THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES— February 14, 1855.

Resolved, That there be printed, for the use of the House, ten thousand copies of the reports of surveys for a railroad to
the Pacific, made under the direction of the Secretary of War, embracing the report of F. W. Lander, civil engineer, of a
survey of a railroad route from Puget's Sound, by Fort Hall and the Great Salt lake, to the Mississippi river ; and the
report of J. C. Fre'mont, of a route for a railroad from the head-waters of the Arkansas river into the State of California ;
together with the maps and plates accompanying each of said reports necessary to illustrate them.

Attest: J. W. FORNEY,

Clerk of the House of Representatives of the United States.

THIRTY-SECOND CONGEESS, SECOND SESSION— Chapter 98.

Sect. 10. And be it further enacted, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby authorized, under the direction of the
President of the United States, to employ such portion of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and such other persons as
he may deem necessary, to make such explorations and surveys as he may deem advisable, to ascertain the most practicable
and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and that the sum of one hundred- and
fifty thousand dollars, or so much thereof as may be necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any money
in the treasury not otherwise appropriated, to defray the expense of such explorations and surveys.

Approved March 3, 1853.

THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION— Chapter 60.

Appropriation : For deficiencies for the railroad surveys between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean, forty thou-
Kind dollars.

Approved May 31, 1854.

THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION— Chapter 267.

Appropriation : For continuing the explorations and surveys to ascertain the best route for a railway to the Pacific, and
fcr sompleting the reports of surveys already made, the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars.
Approved August 5, 1854.

67234

CONTENTS OP VOLUME III.

EXTRACTS FROM THE [PRELIMINARY] REPORT OP LIEUTENANT A. W. WHIPPLE, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL
ENGINEERS, UPON THE ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, WITH AN EXPLANATORY NOTE
BY CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS.

PARTS I--IV OF THE REPORT OF LIEUTENANT A. W. WHIPPLE, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS,
UPON THE ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

1

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE PROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

EXPLANATORY NOTE.

The reports of the Secretary of War and the revising officer, which appear in volume one,
were founded, so far as they relate to the route near the 35th parallel, upon the preliminary
report of Lieutenant Whipple. The following chapters, being those which are principally
referred to in those revisory reports, are, therefore, republished. They are chapters two, three^
four, five, and eleven, with a portion of appendix B. The preliminary profiles are also re-
printed.

A. A. HUMPHREYS,

Captain Topographical Engineers.
In charge of office of Pacific B. B. Explorations and Surveys.

Extracts from the [preliminary] report of Explorations for a Bailway route, near the thirty-fifth
parallel of north latitude, from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, by Lieutenant A. W.
Whipple, Corps of Topographical Engineers.

CHAPTER II.

CONSIDERATIONS REGARDING THE TERMINI OF THE RAILROAD. — EXPLANATION OP THE MAPS.

Three of the principal centres of trade upon the Mississippi river are St. Louis, Memphis, and
Vicksburg. To these cities converge railroads, constructed or proposed, from harbors upon the
northern lakes, from the principal ports upon the Atlantic shore, and from those upon the Gulf
of Mexico, uniting the interests of the northern, middle, and southern States. From the above
mentioned places railroads have been projected, and several are in process of construction, west-
ward to the extreme limits of the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri, each with a
purpose of forming a link in the great chain of communication which must ultimately lead to
the Pacific ocean.

The question immediately arises, which of the various routes shall be at first prolonged ; or,
can there be found a location for a main trunk that may be advantageously united with several
of these branches, affording nearly equal facilities to interests so widely diffused? Nature
seems to point out such an intermediate location near the parallel of thirty-five degrees north
latitude, referred to in the preceeding instructions.

Following the south bank of the Canadian river for nearly one-third of the whole distance to
the Pacific, we pass into the valley of Rio Grande del Norte, near the centre of New Mexico,
where the soil is the most fertile, the population is the most numerous, and the mines are the
most productive of any part of this interior portion of our possessions.

From Vicksburg to Shreveport the course of the railroad — already under construction — is
nearly west. Should it be continued, as has been contemplated, to Preston, on Rod river, the
tendency will be considerably north of west. If prolonged, it would naturally ascend the fertile
valley of the False Washita to a junction with the main branch from Fort Smith, which, in

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EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

accordance with our survey, may follow that stream for many miles, to its source near the south
bank of the Canadian. A reference to Captain Marcy's map of the survey of Red river and its
branches, seems satisfactory evidence of the feasibility of such a connexion. Not only is the
deviation from a direct line quite inconsiderable, but as neither hills nor canons intervene,
gradients will be favorable without expensive excavations or embankments.

In the report of the same officer we find additional advantages in favor of the route, with re-
gard to the excellence of the soil upon and near the region to be traversed. He states that "the
lands included within the Choctaw reservation which are not occupied or made use of by them
are embraced between the 97th and 100th degree of west longitude, and are bounded on the
north and south by the Canadian and Red rivers, being about one hundred and eighty miles in
length by fifty miles in width ; and constituting an aggregate of about nine thousand square
miles of valuable and productive lands, or one thousand square miles more than the State of
Massachusetts." This section includes the whole valley of the False Washita, which we pro-
pose the railway from Preston should traverse.

Various portions of this country are more specifically described. Captain Marcy speaks of
"charming landscapes ; of soil remarkable for fertility ; vegetation in old Indian corn-fields
twelve feet high ; of beautiful springs and streams ; of natural meadows clothed with luxuriant
grasses ; broad and level bottom-lands covered with dense crops of wild rice, and of excellent
timber, large and abundant." He adds : " Indeed, I have never visited any country that, in
my opinion, possessed greater natural local advantages for agriculture than this." The kinds of
timber he mentions are "gigantic pecan, overcup, white-ash, river elm, hackberry, and post-oak."

A more favorable location for a railway than that described could scarcely be desired. The
distance by this line to Albuquerque, as measured upon Captain Marcy's map, is from twelve
to fifteen miles less than from the same point to Dona Ana by the southern trail.

Two routes leave the Mississippi river at St. Louis : one, recently opened, proceeds nearly
west to Independence; the other, now in process of construction, leads southwest, through
Springfield, to the Neosho, and, if prolonged, would intersect the Memphis middle branch upon
the Canadian, not far from the headwaters of the False Washita. Every indication presented
upon our route, and the well-known geological character of the intervening country, led to the
belief of the practicability of such a line. Bridging the Arkansas and Canadian rivers might
be difficult, although, doubtless, points can be found where bluffs converging to the river would
greatly facilitate such an operation.

The branch from St Louis to Independence would join the main trunk upon Rio Galisteo.
Upon this line we have abundant information — the reconnaissance of Major Emory, with a profile
through the Raton mountains, and the survey of Lieutenants Abert and Peck, with a profile by
Dr. Wislizenus, of the Cimarron route to Santa Fe. A copy of this latter profile will accom-
pany the map, and show the availability of that route to unite with our own upon a branch of
the Galisteo river. With reference to this route, Lieutenant Abert, who traversed it in 1845,
says : " I find the maximum grade to be eighty-five and six-tenths feet per mile. It occurs between
Cold Spring and Cedar Creek. * * * There are no difficult places to bridge, but water
and wood are extremely scarce." * * * Lieutenant Peck, who accompanied
Lieutenant Abert, refers to this route as follows : " With reference to the railroad, I am inclined
to think that a route to Galisteo can be found in the general direction of the Santa Fe trail,
which will be more favorable than that by the Canadian. By keeping to the north, so ae to
cross the Cimarron plains and come upon the head of the Canadian at the north end of the Great
Canon, the ground will be more favorable, as it is less cut up by canons than it is where the
Canadian escapes from the high table further south. Building material — that is, in the way of
timber — would be scarce on the northern route from about Cotton Wood Fork to the very entrance
into New Mexico. The rapid falling off of the country from Santa Fe to San Felipe must have
struck you ; and it has undoubtedly been suggested to you, that a road once brought as far as
Galisteo ought to keep as far to the north as possible, crossing the Rio Grande near San Domingo.

EXTRACTS FBOM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

5

From this place it might rise gradually along the face of the bluff behind San Felipe, and so
around the point of bluff to the village of Santa Anna ; from which place a good route exists,
entering the valley of Cibolleta from the northeast, and then emerging from the Cibolleta
valley about five miles below Laguna. This route would save descending and again ascending
several hundred feet, that would be necesssary were the road to pass though Albuquerque."

The various explorations above referred to, in connexion with our own, show a generally
uniform slope, embracing the area in question, from the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains to the
river Mississippi. Over such a country several different routes for a railway, doubtless, with
greater or less facility, might be selected. It would have been interesting to have prolonged
these various routes to a common intersection ; but to attempt it would be to hazard the com-
pletion of the main duties with which we were charged. Contenting ourselves, therefore, with
such information as might be gained from extraneous sources, we hastened to Fort Smith, the
most western point, near the parallel of 35° north latitude, then accessible by steam navigation.

Upon the Pacific coast San Francisco possesses all those advantages upon which a great com-
mercial emporium depends. Its position is central with respect to our possessions there, and it
possesses a harbor of unrivalled magnificence, lying at the confluence of the Sacramento and
San Joaquin rivers, which drain great valleys of unsurpassed fertility. These streams are
navigable, and the banks are lined with excellent timber. Dense forests cover hills and moun-
tains ; mines of gold and quicksilver yield unprecedent returns ; and, to crown all, the climate
is mild and salubrious during every season of the year. Such are some of the superior advantages
which seem to render imperative the termination of the great Pacific railway at the port of San
Francisco.

Should local interests secure the construction of the main road direct to a frontier harbor —
San Diego or Puget's Sound — or to other smaller ports, trade could scarcely be forced from its
natural channel. By a branch through the Sacramento valley, northeast, or by the San
Joaquin river and Tulare lake, southwest, a junction would probably be formed with the main
railway, in order to obtain the great desideratum of an uninterrupted communication through-
out. Commerce demands that this communication should be obtained by the shortest available
route. Northeast and east from San Francisco, the Sierra Nevada forms an impassable barrier.
Nearly all the known passes are concentrated near the latitude of 35°, where the interference of
the coast range with Sierra Nevada has produced a succession of low broken ridges, with valleys
between. Here was to be sought the gate to San Francisco, and an opening for the trade of
the Pacific waters. Upon the same parallel west of the Mississippi, is a union of interests from
eastern States. It was our duty to unite these points, and ascertain whether a route known to
possess so many substantial advantages might not prove favorable throughout.

The accompanying maps, profiles, and tables, are designed to condense, as well as possible, all the
facts developed by the exploration ; or at least those having a intimate connexion with the question
of a railway. The full red line marks the trace of our wagons, to one of which a viameter was
attached for measuring the distances traversed, accompanied by the surveying party observing
courses and altitudes. The profile No. 1 gives a section upon this line. In such hasty opera-
tions it was not expected that such a profile would, in all cases, be shown favorable for a rail-
way. To have attempted to wind around the hill-slopes, where a track should be laid, would
have occupied much more time than we had at our disposal. But in order to correct the actual
profile to that which the contour of the ground showed to be practicable, topographical notes
and sketches were carefully made, and the concluding results are shown in profile No. 2. Ti e
dotted red lines indicate trails of reconnoitering parties. Blue lines coincide nearly with seetu n
No. 2. Dotted blue lines represent the general direction of routes which, from indications, aie
supposed to be more favorable than those traversed. It would be desirable to examine them
more closely.

As detailed information is given upon the profiles regarding the gradients required, 1 pro-

6

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

pose, in this hasty portion of my report, to give merely a hrief sketch of our explorations, con
fining myself quite strictly to matter relating to the project for a railway.

CHAPTER III.

GENERAL Dl'SCR PTION OF THE ROUTE TRAVERSED FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER 70 THE RIO DEL NORTE. — ADVANTAGES AFFORDED BY

NEW MEXICO

Onr barometric observations were commenced at Napoleon, which, situated at the junction of
the Arkansas river with the Mississippi, is hut slightly elevated above high-water mark. The
observations, properly reduced, give for the height of this place eighty-two feet above mean
tide of the Gulf of Mexico. The river Arkansas presents low banks and forests of timber,
densely matted with/vines. An unvarying evenness of surface extends ninety-eight miles to Pine
Bluff. This is a town of some importance, pleasantly situated upon a plateau, about ten feet
above the previous level of the river's bank. This plateau extends several miles, and, bearing
pines, exhibits a soil more porous and less luxuriant in vegetation than the lower bottoms ; hence,
doubtless, a more healthy location. Twenty miles beyond appeared another ridge, somewhat
higher than the last, covered with plantations. Passing this, we returned to low banks, with
moss-covered trees and tangled vines, with here and there a venturesome plantation creating a
pleasant break in the monotonous wilderness.

The beauty of Little Rock, one hundred and forty-eight miles by land from Napoleon, created
an agreeable surprise. Situated fifty feet above the river, upon the first swell of a metamorphic
ridge that extends southwest beyond the limits of the State, its location is at once picturesque,
and free from the pestilential vapors that infest the low lands. The town itself is laid out with
charming taste, nearly every house occupying a square, ornamented with shade trees, shrubbery,
and flowers. By observation the height of Little Rock was found to be three hundred and ten
feet above the sea. Supposing Memphis ninety-six feet above tide-water, the difference of level
between it and Little Rock is two hundred and fourteen feet, and the distance one hundred and
fifty-five miles, giving an average grade of 1.4 foot per mile. From information that seems
reliable, it appears that from the point opposite Memphis to the river St. Francis, thirty-nine
miles, is an extensive marsh, subject to annual overflow. The present travelled road is said to
be raised from ten to fifteen feet above the general level of the country. For a railway, there-
fore, this portion of the route would require an expensive embankment. Thence to Little Rock,
one hundred and sixteen miles, a slightly undulating prairie presents a favorable location for
a railway.

Above Little Rock we find the banks still luxuriant in vegetation, and finely timbered. Leaving
the granite ridge, we enter the lower carboniferous formation, soon passing into coal measures,
where at numerous places veins of coal of excellent quality crop out. Few villages or planta-
tions occupy the immediate banks of the river. Healthier locations are found upon high lands
a few miles inland.

The " La Fourche" and "Petit Jean" are the first mountain ranges that impinge upon the
river. These are said to extend southwest twenty or thirty miles, where they slope into a plain.
There, it is supposed, the railroad from Little Rock to Fort Smith will pass without obstruction,
and nearly in a straight line. The "Petit Jean'' is said to be nine hundred and fifty feet high.

Passing the Dardanelle Rock, a precipice apparently one hundred and fifty feet high, we pro-
ceed along banks still covered with forests of cotton wood, with pines upon the hill-tops. The
Magazin, a finely timbered mountain, eleven hundred feet in height, approaches within three
or four miles of the river.

In the vicinity of Piney river — so called from its abundant supply of pine timber — coal is

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY J REPORT.

7

said to be very abundant. It is bituminous, but less soft than that furnished by the eastern markets.
It burns with a clear flame, without smoke, and with little residuum. Cropping out in veins,
it is easily obtained, and is generally used in blacksmiths' shops, in grates, and in steamboats
of this region. Van Buren we found a flourishing village, with evidences of wealth, enterprise,
and prosperity. It is the centre of trade for an extensive agricultural district. Being situated
at the foot of a hill on the river's left bank, it has once or twice been flooded by extraordinary
freshets of the river. These freshets have previously occurred once in about ten years. The
worst was in 1833, when nearly all the bottom-lands of the river were submerged. The last,
in 1844, was less extensile. It is to be hoped that floods will not again occur, as fear of the
devastation they produce is doubtless one cause of the scarcity of plantations upon the soil of
this fertile valley.

The site for Fort Smith, five miles above, was selected in 1817 by Colonel Long, and called
Belle Point. It occupies an elevated point of land immediately below the junction of the Poteau,
a small tributary from the southwest, with the Arkansas. The hill which forms the basis of
the fort, is of a dark gray micaceous sandstone, in horizontal laminae, and rises about thirty feet
above the water. The country back of the fort has an undulating surface, gradually ascending
as it recedes, and is covered with heavy forests of oak, tulip tree, sassafras, &c. Towards the
south, from thirty to forty miles distant, rise to the height of two thousand feet, summits of the
Point Sucre and Cavaniol mountains, which stand on opposite sides of a branch of Poteau river.
The spot proving in every respect a favorable one, under protection of the military, there sprang
into existence a town, now grown to a flourishing city. Observations place it four hundred and
sixty feet above the level of the sea. Supposing the distance from Little Rock to be one hundred
and sixty miles by land, the elevation one hundred and fifty feet, will give a grade less than one
foot to the mile. Should the high lands intervening offer as few obstacles as supposed, the
railway to this point may be constructed at moderate expense. Such a road, even should it
proceed no further, would be of incalculable advantage to the State.

The mineral resources of Arkansas are worthy of consideration. Lead, copper, silver, and
iron ore, are said to be abundant. The iron mountains near the Missouri line are alone
worthy a railroad. Beds of coal are of great extent, cropping out in various places near the
river Arkansas. The veins are thick, and easily worked ; the quality is excellent, and the
mines apparently inexhaustible. Extensive quarries of roofing slate found here, are now sup-
plying the markets of Cincinnati and St. Louis.

Timber, of the best quality for the purposes of a railway, this country furnishes in abundance.
Wheat, cotton, and maize, are staple productions of the State. With an outlet for these
products, such as a railroad would afford, population would increase, and the virgin soil of
Arkansas no longer lie dormant.

Dr. Shumard, geologist and naturalist upon the exploring expedition of Captain Marcy,
kindly presented to me his thermometrical observations at Fort Smith, extending for a period
of more than a year. These show a climate most favorable to agricultural purposes. For the
year ending June 1, 1852, the mean temperature is 65°. 47. The mean for August, the
warmest month, was 89°. 4. The least, 34°.84, is the mean for January. But one storm of
snow is recorded during the year ; that was two inches, in January. Rain occurred every
month ; the least in September, October, and January, averaging one and one-third inch
each. May appears the rainy season ; twelve and one-sixteenth inches having been measured
during the month. For the year, the fall recorded is fifty-one and one-fourth inches. There
were two hundred and nineteen moist days, eighty-two rainy, and one hundred and twenty-
six dry days ; twenty not having been noted. The mean temperature of summer is 86°. 98 ; of
autumn, 69°. 11 ; of winter, 42°. 23 ; of spring 63°. 57. The highest temperature recorded is
104°, in August ; the least, 4°, occurred in January. The summer referred to is that on
which this place was visited by the scourge of cholera.

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EXTEACTS FEOM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

Astronomical observations place Fort Smith in 35° 22' 55" north latitude ; longitude, 94°
21' west of Greenwich .

Passing the river Poteau with a southwest course, we crossed the low bottom-lands, and pro-
ceeded ten miles, to Eing's plantation, our first encampment.

The Poteau flows from the southwest, with a gentle current, averaging probably seventy-
five feet in width for several miles, but increasing to four hundred feet near the mouth. Its
banks are of a dark shale, indicating the presence of coal. By spirit level the surface of the
stream, which may also represent the Arkansas, is found to be * * * feet below camp Wilson,
near the fort. Timber and stone are upon the spot, and a single arch of about one hundred
feet would span the stream. The country is flat nearly to Eing's house, situated upon the
brow of a ridge of gentle hills, which, stretching across from Fort Coffee to the Poteau, bounds
the delta included between the rivers near their junction. Upon this plantation wells
forty to fifty feet deep furnish excellent water, resting upon a bed of coal.

From Eing's plantation to Choctaw agency — five miles — the road led us over hilly ground,
which could have been avoided by inclining towards the banks of either the Arkansas or
Poteau. The latter communicates with a narrow prairie extending almost uninterruptedly west
to Sans Bois creek, affording, for thirty miles, an excellent trace for a railroad.

Within this distance were several small streams — Camp creek, Coon creek, and Long Pond
creek — averaging ten to fifteen feet in width, with water a few inches deep. The Sans Bois,
densely wooded, like other streams, may be spanned by a bridge from eighty to one hundred
feet in length. Timber and stone are abundant, and a rocky bottom forms a good foundation
for the construction of a viaduct.

We ascended the left bank of the Sans Bois, crossing Cooper's creek, fifty feet wide, and
several small ravines.

To the south fork of the Canadian we passed a hilly country, where ravines and heights
were finely timbered, forming charming groves.

To our left the guide pointed out a prairie, which we should have followed to Gaines' creek,
had not the approach to it been too densely wooded ; thereby we should have saved some dis-
tance, and avoided several bad hills.

The east branch of the south fork of the Canadian, with hard, gravelly bottom, and a good
foundation for piers, will require a bridge from seventy-five to one hundred feet span. The
banks are high and considerably broken.

Passing onward to Coal creek, which we crossed, forty feet in width, we found the country
so rough as to compel us to deviate several miles from the road in search of a more level route
for the survey. The creek heads in the range of Shawnee hills, five hundred feet in height,
extending from the immediate bank of the Canadian several miles south. By the much-
travelled road, the ascent and passage caused nearly the destruction of our wagons. After
laborious explorations to the right and left, and by the assistance of a Shawnee guide, we
found that by following a more southern branch of Coal creek to its headwaters below the
range of hills, we could, by a direct and shorter route, pass the gently swelling divide to the
waters of Boggy river. Had we known the route in season, we could have cut out a road
to unite with the main trail, where it crosses the first affluent of Eed river, in less time than it
took us to perform our disastrous march and weary our mules upon the beaten track.

We are now near the termination of the coal measures, and passing to the lower car-
boniferous formation. Bituminous coal is found cropping out, and in many places are mines of
it between Fort Smith and the Shawnee villages ; especially on the Sans Bois and Coal creeks.
It was used in our blacksmith forges, and found to be of superior quality. There are evidence
of an inexhaustible supply for railroad and other purposes.

Besides coal in this formation, we have limestone and sandstone, excellent for the construc-
tion of bridges and viaducts. Quicklime is also easily obtained. The whole country traversed
from Fort Smith contains a soil exceedingly fertile, and by creeks and rivulets is supplied with

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

9

pure and unfailing water. Its fertile prairies are frequently cut into gentle ridges and valleys,
like the most favored portion of New England. Timber of superior quality abounds upon the
whole of the route. The highlands are chequered with groves of various oaks, while dense
forests in the wide bottoms of the streams afford a great variety of excellent timber — ash, oak,
white elm, black walnut, and pecan. To a considerable extent, this country is already cultivated
by the Choctaws, Chickasaws, Creeks, and Shawnees, that possess it. Their fields of wheat and
maize are luxuriant. Potatoes, tobacco, and rice are produced. Cattle, horses, and sheep
thrive upon the wild grass prairies that nature has so strangely alternated with forests, adding
to the beauty of the landscape and the wants of the Indian farmer.

Fruits, especially peaches, melons, and grapes, grow in profusion. Many fine settlements
already exist in this region ; that called Little Eiver, on the opposite bank of the Canadian,
is particularly flourishing. Having passed the large and beautiful basin fertilized by the
branching waters of the river Boggy, which flows through a pleasant valley towards the south-
west to unite with Eed river, we ascended the ridge which terminates in Delaware mount, and
forms the eastern boundary of the great prairies.

The ascent is about sixty feet within the distance of a mile.

Beyond, the face of nature was changed, and the undulating grassy plains appeared as if
deposing upon the waves of ocean.

The carboniferous group has now given place to the extensive red sandstone formation,
affording continually building material and quicklime. White amorphous gypsum also
begins to appear. The soil, however, formed of red clay and argillaceous sandstone, continues
fertile and well watered.

Crossing Topofki creek, a small stream with gravel bed, thirty feet wide, and numerous
smaller branches flowing towards the Canadian, we arrived at old camp Arbuckle, where now
exists a flourishing settlement of Delaware Indians. Here we had hoped to obtain a guide ;
but the river Canadian being remarkably low, and the season unusually dry, the Indians
feared lest we might suffer for want of water, and declined the service.

Leaving the last vestige of semi-civilization, we crossed rolling prairies, which divide the
waters of the Canadian from the affluents of Bed river, and encamped on a tributary to Walnut
creek. Various springs were passed during the day, affording plenty of water, while grass
was everywhere abundant.

A few miles northeast from our camp, near the confluence of Walnut creek with the
Canadian, is Chouteau's old Indian trading post, where, since the tragic death of the pro-
prietor, Kichai Indians have sought a resting place, to form the connecting link between the
quiet Delawares and the murderous wild bands of Kioways and Comanches.

From this point the famous forest of Cross Timbers commences. Captain Marcy remarks
that "this extensive belt of woodland, which forms one of the most prominent and anomalous
features upon the face of the country, is from five to thirty miles wide, and extends from the
Arkansas river in a southwesterly direction to the Brazos, some four hundred miles."

Our route for about sixty miles, following the delightful valleys of Walnut and Deer creeks,
skirted the edge of this forest. The timber which it furnishes — post oak and black jack —
though small, is exhaustless, and would serve for railroad ties. The wide and fertile bottom
lands that line the creeks, however, furnish timber of larger size — oak, elm, black walnut, and
hackberry abounding throughout the region.

Bountiful nature has here supplied all the advantages that the agriculturist would require —
abundant crystal steams of purest water, luxuriant valleys for cultivation, extensive prairies of
nutritious grama for pasturage, and unfailing forests of oak for fuel.

Passing the headwaters of Deer creek, in longitude 98£°, we leave the big north bend of the
Canadian to our right, and pursue a course nearly west. Soon, rising upon the swelling

2

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EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

prairies which, support the celebrated natural mounds, the scene was changed, and, for the
first time, appears, for a day's march, a nearly treeless, barren waste.

Gypsum, which has been occasionally seen since leaving camp No. 29, in the valley of Deer
creek, has now become exceedingly abundant. Extensive veins of it, beautifully crystallized,
frequently occur, sometimes containing caves ten to twelve feet in diameter.

Among the uncouth ravines, red clay predominates, and gathers the waters into numerous
small springs and streams, slightly impregnated with salts of magnesia in solution. These
communicate at times a disagreeable taste to the waters.

Beyond the natural mounds, a mile west from camp No. 30, we approached a beautiful
stream, flowing towards the Washita. It is finely timbered with post oak, alamo, and elm.
It contains fish ; and we call it Gypsum creek, because its waters are tinctured with salts
derived from the decomposition of that mineral. This was our entrance into the fertile basin,
where numerous, unfailing rivulets, with luxuriantly wooded valleys, form the headwaters of
the False Washita of Red river. We cross the pretty rivulets Bear creek and Elm creek, and
make our encampment (No. 31) on Comet creek. All of these streams have timbered banks
and fertile valleys.

Continuing to traverse the rolling prairies which divide the streams, fine views of beautiful
valleys, fringed with red foliage of trees, constantly delight us.

Near camp No. 31 we found oolitic sandstone, limestone, and shells, indicating the lower bed
of the cretaceous formation which overlies the gypsum. This proves that the sandstone we
have been passing is the new red, like that of Lake Superior. The nutritious buffalo grass first
appeared in this region, and here we had the first chase for the noble game from which it was
named.

From camp No. 30 to camp No. 33, a distance of about forty miles, our route lay wholly in
the basin, watered by numerous affluents of the False Washita. To our surprise, beauty and
fertility were among its chief characteristics.

Bed marl and gypsum characterized the soil. Grass was everywhere abundant. Bed oak,
post oak, blackjack, cotton wood, and elm fringed the streams with dense, dark green, foliage.

To have followed the fine valley of the False Washita to its junction with Bed river would
doubtless have developed the same general features throughout, with a route for a railway to
Preston direct, and of the most favorable character.

A few hours' march took us across the low dividing ridge which separates the waters of Bed
river from the Canadian. As we ascended the hills, the country became more arid and sandy.
From the crest, toward the north, at a distance of a mile, appeared the wide valley of the Cana-
dian, with here and there patches of forest or a fringe of alamos. Abrupt ravines showed pools
of water and foliage of refreshing green.

Elsewhere, the parched hills wore the sombre aspect of a dreary waste, with which the deep
carmine hue of the Canadian seemed in unison.

The bed of the river we found about six hundred yards wide, with streams a foot deep coursing
through it in a network of channels. Though saturated with red marl, the water was pleasant
to taste, and, when clarified by pieces of mucilaginous cactus, afforded a more grateful beverage
than the slightly saline waters we had left behind.

The valley of the Canadian possesses alluvial bottoms, covered with loamy soil and occasional
patches of grass.

To cut off a bend of the river, we passed through the Antelope hills, and struck the dry bed
of a stream, which we followed to the Canadian to find water for camp.

These hills consist of coarse friable sandstone, cemented by lime. They are the last mesa
remnants of an elevated plain now worn away, by diluvial and atmospheric causes, to gentle hills
and abrupt ravines. Occasional fields of sand, the absence of water, the scarcity of the verdure
of grass and trees, rendered this march of eighteen miles the most dreary of our route.

On reaching the Canadian the country improves ; the valley grows wide and more fertile ;

EXTRACTS FEOM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

11

herds of buffalo are occasionally seen grazing upon the hill-sides. Turkeys congregate under
the dark green foliage of scattered copses, that form an agreeable contrast to the pale red tint
that is spread over the landscape of river and plain. As we proceed, the Canadian becomes
deeper and less muddy. Numerous streams bring down their tribute from the hills, but disap-
pear beneath the surface where they unite with the valley of the Canadian.

Many of these rivulets are well wooded, and will furnish a small supply of timber.

The alluvial bottom lands of the Canadian, as well as the narrow belts of its tributaries,
which increase in length and importance as we recede from the vicinity of the headwaters of the
False Washita, produce natural vineyards and orchards of plum trees. The grapes, unlike
wild varieties in the eastern States, possessed a thin skin and a soft pulp deliciously sweet.

Colonel Long, in 1817, and Lieutenant Abert, in 1845, noticed upon this part of the river the
same general characteristics : "The valley of the Canadian, twenty miles from its issue out of
the mountains, appeared twenty-five miles in width ; and, though not so fertile as some lands
in the Mississippi valley, might, by proper cultivation, support a numerous population. At
the junction of Tucumcari creek the river bed was found to be sixty yards wide, forty
yards being covered with water ten inches deep. On the 8th were found grape vines loaded
with fruit. Descending the Canadian, the country became more plain and fertile. The
river valley opened wide, and was bounded on both sides by low and rounded hills, instead of
abrupt and perpendicular precipices. The general surface was but little elevated above the
river, and nearly unbroken." * * * " The immediate valley of the river had now become
little less than ten miles in width, and had in some places a fertile soil." * * * "The next
camp was on the southwest side of the river, under a low bluff which separates the half-wooded
valley from the open and elevated plains. The small elms along this valley were bending
under the weight of innumerable grape vines now loaded with ripe fruit ; the purple clusters
crowded in such profusion as almost to give a coloring to the landscape."

To such testimony of the adaptation of this country to the culture of fruit and the manufacture
of wine, it is scarcely necessary to add the coincidence of our own observations.

This portion of our route being so well known to be favorable to the location of a railway,
we left the Canadian valley, and, passing several pleasant brooks and springs, gradually ascended
to the Llano Estacado. That apparently boundless plain, without a shrub or tree as far as
sight could penetrate, is covered with a thick carpet of buffalo grass, cropped by numerous herds
of antelope and deer. The formation of the Llano is of the cretaceous period, overlying trias.
The upper stratification is chalky limestone, upon marl and red sandstone. Numerous clear
rivulets of pure water issue from the base of the cliffs, and fertilize narrow belts of the valleys
leading to the Canadian. Upon these little streams grow a border of trees, and a profusion
of vines loaded with purple fruit.

The northern slopes of the Llano, under the bluff edge, one or two hundred feet above the
base, are covered with a dense forest of cedars. Protection from the prevailing southwest winds
has enabled these trees to obtain a moderate size. It is possible that some may be found
suitable for railroad ties. The supply of fuel from this source would be abundant. The wood is
exceedingly hard and durable — inferior only to mezquite, with which our route abounds.
Among the ancient ruins of fortifications, upon Pueblo creek and elsewhere, erected previous to
the conquest of Mexico by Cortez, were found cedar beams or ties which remain nearly perfect.
A specimen, now deposited in the Smithsonian Institute, was procured at the ruins of " El Moro,"
where are Spanish incriptions, dated 1606, testifying to the existence of these ruins at that early
period.

The remarkable durability of the prairie and mountain firs of this region give them a value
for timber above what has usually been awarded them. For fuel, the traveller of the prairies
has long held them in high estimation.

Leaving the Llano Estacado, we pass a belt of forty miles in extent, with numerous woodless

12

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

chocolate-colored streams, and reach the well known Rio Tucumcari, called by Mexicans, on
account of its wide and fertile valley, "Plaza Larga."

Although it is nearly two hundred miles distant from Rio del Norte, flocks of sheep are
frequently driven to graze for a season at this favored spot. The creek is a permanently flow-
ing stream, fringed with trees, and fertilizing a wide belt of country which extends to the
Canadian river.

The Tucumcari hills, near by, are remnants of the great Llano Estacado, and their slopes
likewise contain many large cedars. Throughout this region, artesian wells could be resorted
to with advantage, to increase the supply of water.

From this point to Anton Chico our route was constantly upon the upper part of the trias
red clay and sandstone. The summits of the bluffs are of white sandstone, forming a good
material for constructions.

Passing over a gently rolling country, with here and there a stream gliding through woodless
valleys of red marl, we cross Laguna Colorado, Pajarito, and other creeks flowing into the great
valley of the Canadian below the canon.

Then, ascending a low range of hills, we pass the divide, and encamp on Hurrah creek near
where it pays tribute to the Gallinas, a branch of Rio Pecos. Water and grass were plenty,
but wood was scarce.

The next day, having passed several shepherds' huts, many herds of cattle and flocks of sheep
feeding in green pastures, we went down into the valley of the Pecos. A border of cultivated
fields, with wheat, oats, and maize, extends along the valley.

Anton Chico rests near inviting orchards upon the brink of the stream, enclosed between two
steep banks four hundred feet in height. A gentle slope along a smooth hill-side renders the
descent to the river comparatively easy. To ascend its western bank was the first great obstacle
encountered upon the route.

Mr. Campbell, the principal railroad engineer, was sent to explore, and found two routes by
which the object could be accomplished. The first descended to the valley, and followed the
course of the river to a ravine, through which, winding with curvatures of half a mile radius,
the bank could be ascended with a grade of eighty feet per mile. The other proposed to keep
the top of the eastern bank to a point above the town, where the canon is narrow enough to
allow a viaduct to be constructed reaching the crest of the opposite bank. The saving of several
miles in distance and ten feet per mile in grade would probably compensate for the great expense
of such a structure. Stone of the best quality for such purpose exists upon the spot. Magnifi-
cent pines are found fifteen or twenty miles distant in the mountains, such as are considered in
this country to afford the best and most durable timber for " vigas" (beams or rafters) of houses.

The excavation that will be required is in coarse gravel, easily removed.

Once upon the western bank of the Pecos, the railway may follow the route surveyed through
Canon Blanco to La Laguna, or, I believe, ascend along the crest of the Canon, Pass la Cuesta, to
Pecos springs, and thence by the summit, marked on the accompanying profile, proceed to the
headwaters of Rio Galisteo. No mountains, but a high table-land merely, appearing to inter-
vene, and the distance from stream to stream being but a few miles, it seems quite probable that
this course might prove available.

By Canon Blanco there is no difficulty, except at the point of leaving it. There, to diminish
the grade, it will be necessary, at considerable expense for cutting and filling, to ascend by the
side of the canon. Beyond this point the route is plain, with light grades and gentle curvatures,
to a branch of Rio Galisteo east of the Gold mountains. Following its gentle stream through
a wide puerto of the Rocky mountains, we pass within twenty miles of Santa Fe, and strike
Rio del Norte at Pueblo de San Felipe, where formerly a bridge spanned the river. This route
leads directly by the rich placers of gold and other precious metals, which are said to abound at
the junction of the eruptive and metamorphic rocks.

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

13

The more direct route, via Carnuel Pass, would require labor of excavation and steeper grades.
It passes, however, through an out-crop of coal, and leads to Albuquerque, or to the remaining
narrow gorge of the Del Norte at Isleta, where the river cuts through banks of diluvial drift,
which, rising perpendicularly twenty feet above the water, form natural abutments for a bridge.

The valley of Rio Grande del Norte is well known. The bottom land that can be irrigated
is very extensive. One-fifth of it is probably under cultivation, producing wheat, maize, fruits
and vegetables. The soil and climate seem particularly adapted to the culture of grapes, which
grow luxuriantly and to perfection. The wine produced is finely flavored, and, with an easy
communication with a market, may become an article of commerce and a source of wealth to
New Mexico. But the resources of this Territory are not confined to the belt which may be
flooded by the waters of the Rio del Norte. Numerous springs and streams chequer this region,
with fertile spots among the mountains.

Colonel McCall, inspector general of the army, in his report dated July 15, 1850, estimates
"the land now cultivated" in New Mexico at about two hundred square miles. "Land cultivable
now vacant," exclusive of the vast regions occupied by the Navajoes, Moquis, Zunians, and
wilder tribes of Indians, is estimated at about four hundred and ninety square miles. He asserts
"with confidence" that "the figures are not too high." Judging from those portions I have
myself visited, I am inclined to the opinion that the estimate falls below the actual amount.
Seven hundred square miles, however, watered by acequias and cultivated as usual like one vast
garden, will produce supplies sufficient to support a numerous population.

The high mesas, which extend in various directions from the foot of the Rocky Mountains
and Sierra Madre, although from the want of sufficient rains unfit for cultivation, are by no
means valueless. They are covered with a thick carpet of curled grama — the most nutritious
grass that grows — affording abundant and unfailing pasturage, during every season of the year,
to unlimited herds of cattle and flocks of sheep. The expense of raising them is but a trifle.
Within the past few years merchants have transported wool to St. Louis, and made handsome
profits. Heretofore it was esteemed nearly valueless. With an improved breed of sheep and
railway transportation, wool-growers of New Mexico might control the eastern markets.

Colonel McCall, in relation to Indian depredations, states that, "as far as" he "could
ascertain positively, by summing up individual cases, forty-seven thousand and three hundred
sheep were driven off by these Indians" (from New Mexico) within eighteen months prior to
the 1st of September, 1850. Doubtless, the Indians took many flocks from shepherds in the
mountains that were not officially reported.

" Some twenty or twenty-five years ago, before the hand of the red man had fallen so heavily
upon them, the people of this State, as well as of Chihuahua, sent annually to the city of
Mexico vast numbers of sheep, as well as cattle and mules. At this day, not one thousand are
sent from districts that formerly furnished their hundreds of thousands, such has been the
rapacity and the relentless spirit of the Navajoes and Apaches."

Notwithstanding the extent of these depredations, and the drain since 1846, for the support
of the army and of emigrants, vast numbers of sheep have been annually driven to California
markets.

I believe we are beginning better to understand our " red brethren," and soon will accord to
them some of the rights due to true "native Americans." Based upon such principles, it
would not be difficult to civilize all the wild tribes I have ever met with in my wanderings.
They would then, like the Pueblo Indians of New Mexico, have a community of interests with
the whites — tilling patches of fertile soil among the mountains, and grazing flocks and herds
upon the illimitable plains over which they roam ; thus acquiring a surplus with which to trade
for such clothing and other necessaries as they may need. Savage warfare will then cease, and
the resources of New Mexico— agricultural, pastural, and mineral— will be developed, and, if
they choose, the people may build cities and aqueducts in the deserts, as did the Spaniards two
centuries since at Gran Quevira.

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EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

Notwithstanding the richness of her mines of gold, of silver, of copper, and of iron, the de-
posits of coal that have heen discovered in New Mexico have prohahly a more direct and practi-
cal bearing upon the project of a railway. The mountains east and west from Kio Grande — the
Sandia and Manzana ranges, as well as the Sierra Madre — furnish a large supply of superb firs
for timber. Near the base of the mountains, on gravel ridges and in dry ravines, are found
cedar and mezquite, furnishing for the people sufficient fuel.

But the excellent coal, which is said to crop out in the Carnuel Pass and in the famous basin
of Cibolleta, would, with railroad transportation, afford a large supply of this necessary com-
modity.

Hence, with the increase of population, the development of the precious metals, the manufac-
ture of wine, and the produce of wool and other articles, will afford rich freights, east and west,
in exchange for fabrics of every kind, and luxuries required from the older States.

Such seem a few of the considerations that will have an influence upon the prosperity of the
Pacific railway.

CHAPTER IV.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE TRAVERSED FROM RIO DEL NORTE TO PORT OF SAN PEDRO. — REMARKS UPON THE VALLEY OF RIO

COLORADO.

West of Kio del Norte, a ridge easily crossed brings us to Rio Puerco. A branch called Rio
de San Jose, passing beds of coal, leads, by a gradual ascent, near to the summit of Sierra
Madre. Two passes here were examined — both practicable ; one leading by the Camino del
Obispo, the other by Ojo del Oso. The latter, by report of my principal assistant surveyor,
A. H. Campbell, esq., who examined it, scarcely needs excavation to prepare the way for iron
tracks. The Obispo Pass would probably require a maximum grade from eighty to ninety feet
per mile, and a tunnel of perhaps three-quarters of a mile, through soft limestone rock, at the
summit. But nature has modelled the slope upon each side of the pass ; and beyond, the route
glides quietly into the extensive, well watered, and beautiful valley leading to Zuni. The
route across the Sierra Madre passes extensive forests of excellent pine timber.

It is a singular fact that, throughout New Mexico, Pueblo Indians are universally conceded to
be the most sober, honest, and industrious portion of the inhabitants of this Territory. My
own observations would tend to confirm the fact. The Indians of Zuni cultivate a portion of
an extensive valley, in the midst of which their pueblo is built. Without irrigation, depending
only upon occasional rains, they produce abundant crops of grain and vegetables. Even though
they had furnished forage for Fort Defiance, their supply of maize seemed inexhaustible.
These Indians are more shrewd and more enterprising than the lower class of Mexican popula-
tion. They comprehend the advantage of trade which the opening of a railway through their
country would afford, and are eager for its accomplishment. The Caciques met in council and
delegated three of their best men to show us the excellent route due west to Rio Colorado
Chiquito, below the junction of Rio Puerco of the West. The service was accomplished to our
complete satisfaction. The route was excellent, nearly devoid of hills, with frequent springs
and streams of water, and grama grass abundant.

Here is where the route through Campbell's Pass, at Ojo del Oso, unites with the main line.
It possesses the advantage of a low summit and easy grades along the channels of the two
streams it follows. But the waters of Rio Puerco of the West, being generally lost below the
surface, fail to produce the fertility that distinguishes the Zuni route.

The Colorado Chiquito is a stream smaller than the Gila, but similar in many respects. The
banks are fringed with cotton wood ; the valley is wide, the soil rich, and the gravelly ridges
are covered with fragments of pottery, among ruins of ancient Indian pueblos. Drift wood
here is very abundant, indicating occasional freshets, and plenty of timber near the sources of

EXTEACTS FEOM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

15

the river. This stream we followed nearly west about sixty miles. Here the river turned
northwest. Desiring to continue as we were, upon the parallel of 35°, a small reconnoitring
party advanced to explore the low pass, where a spur of the Mogoyon mountains is broken by
the volcanic peaks of San Francisco.

We had sent to Moqui, hoping to obtain Indian guides through this country also, but the
messengers returned unsuccessful. They brought tidings that, by hundreds, the Moquis were
dying by small-pox. Only three men could be found in health, and they were insufficient to
throw the dead over the walls.

Without a guide, therefore, we moved onward about eighteen miles to a canoned stream, with
sides so precipitous and deep as to obstruct our march. Following north for a passage, fifteen
miles brought us to its junction with the Colorado Chiquito. Again we explored westward, and
with complete success. By an almost uniform grade, we ascended the wave-like swell of the
Mogoyon spur, and, at the southern base of the San Francisco mountains, reached the head-
waters of the San Francisco river. Here were vast forests of excellent timber, cedar, oak, and
pine, covering the plains, and stretching southerly, over a region watered by San Francisco
streams, to the furthest limits of vision. North of us rose the volcanic mountains, white with
snow, and covered with new varieties of magnificent firs.

It was now between Christmas and New Year, and we were upon one of the most elevated
parts of our whole route, seven thousand and two hundred feet above the level of the sea. The
winter we knew to be unusually severe, as Mr. Leroux, for three previous winters, had seen
these mountain peaks devoid of snow. Now, even at the base where we encamped, snow eight
enches deep was lyng upon the surface. But we were in a region where curled grama was
everywhere abundant, and our mules fared well upon what they could glean from the rocky
hill-sides. A thermometer immersed in Leroux's spring read 48°. 4 Fahrenheit. This is
undoubtedly the mean temperature of the place.

Continuing our explorations west-southwest without difficulty, we found a route leading to a
stream marked by Captain Sitgreaves, upon his manuscript map, "Bill Williams' fork," and
represented as flowing into Bio Colorado forty-five miles below the Mojave villages. Following
its course, we soon overlooked a vast region of charming country, which we called the " Black
Forest." Notwithstanding the depth of winter, and the snowy mountains not far behind us,
here nature had put forth spring flowers and green herbage.

To our regret, the drainage of this region was to the southeast, and Bill Williams' fork took
the direction towards Kio San Francisco and the Gila. Disappointed, but not discouraged, we
turned west, crossed streams, and, having made a circuit of one hundred miles, sent back mes-
sengers to bring up the train by a favorable route we had discovered. Our reconnaissance still
continued in advance of the main body of the surveying party, communicating by signal smokes
or messengers the proper course for it to pursue.

Partridge creek we now followed until it entered an extensive basin, so abundant in curled
grama that we called it " Chino valley." This appeared like a branch of that to which we had
previously traced Bill Williams' fork, and our hopes were again chilled by finding Partridge
creek also turning east of south.

Thus far we had found no want of water, grass, and wood ; no difficulty in the progress of
our train of wagons, and scarcely an obstacle to the construction of a railway. But a continuous
range of mountains seemed to deny our westward progress.

We ascended Chino valley northwest two days' march, finding no puerto for a passage
through the mountain range, and no water among the ravines for our animals. The wholo
country to the northwest and north looked extremely unpromising ; plains, barren and water-
less, flanked upon the west by the still unbroken chain of mountains. In fact, it was the region
over which Captain Sitgreaves passed two years before, finding no water for eighty miles, and

16

EXTEACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

crossing, beyond, two ranges of mountains whose steep declivities were practicable only for
pack mules.

We were now nearly five thousand feet above the level of the Kio Colorado, distant, in direct
line, about one hundred and twenty-five miles. That would give a uniforn grade, the whole
distance, forty feet to the mile. It was, therefore, necessary to avoid ascents, and seek a route
where a declivity might commence at the earliest moment.

Ketracing our steps, we explored the same range south. Fifteen miles from Partridge creek
we found flowing, through a dark grove of overhanging ash and hickory, a limpid stream,
where ducks, turkeys, and deer were abundant. Five miles beyond Turkey creek we came upon
Pueblo creek, so called on account of extensive ruins of houses and fortifications that lined its
banks.

Thinking that this stream might change its southeast course and flow westward, we pro-
ceeded near to the base of Mount Hope. There ascending an elevated peak, the drainage of the
country still appeared east of south, over the same great tract of fertile country we had previously
seen from Bill Williams' fork.

Thirty miles south, at the base of Black mountain, seemed a low summit. But there were
surer indications of a break in the mountain chain where cut by a branch of Pueblo creek. So,
returning thither, we ascended its finely-timbered banks nearly due west. In six miles we
gained the summit of a pass where two streams found their sources within five hundred feet of
each other ; one flowing eastwardly into Pueblo creek, the other westwardly along the course
we sought. This cut through the sierra seemed formed by nature for a passage. Wide Indian
trails and ruins of extensive fortifications, constructed centuries since upon the heights to defend
it, showed that not only present tribes, but ancient races had deemed this "Aztec Pass" of
great importance. Upon the northern side the mountain slope was regular, and followed in a
spur parallel to Pueblo creek, enabling the engineer to commence his ascent so as to pass the
summit with a favorable grade. A deep cut, or perhaps a tunnel of two or three hundred
yards, might be required through the narrow hill which forms the divide. Leaving u Aztec
Pass " behind us, we gently descended fifteen or twenty miles along the rivulet, which flowed
sometimes above and sometimes below the surface. Our stream now turning northwest towards
Yampai creek, in that direction appeared a valley uninterrupted even to the horizon. The
reconnoitring party again turned westward over a rolling prairie, and, somewhat to our
surprise, in ten or twelve miles we found our course cut by the creek we had left. It now
flowed west of south, with canoned banks fifty feet high. The general surface of the country
was gently rolling. Following our stream — which now we call Canon creek — we found that
the country became more rough, the canon deeper cutting through, and a few miles below
emerging from the eruptive barrier that once opposed the flow of its waters. Although no
extraordinary difficulty may be apprehended in constructing a railway through the channel
formed by the stream, it was no natural road for our wagons. Turning westward, we crossed
the Aquarius range of mountains, and found a favorable passage, which our train followed
through " Cactus Pass " to " White Cliff " creek. This was a fine mountain stream that fretted
upon its rocky shores, shaded by cotton wood and willows. It emptied into Big Sandy, the
latter flowing south, and seldom showing water above the surface. Twelve miles below we
again joined Canon creek. The stream of transparent water, probably fifty feet wide and two
feet deep, glides upon a pebbly bed, and nourishes upon its borders reeds and rushes of vivid
green. Budding alamos line its banks, and mezquites cover the fertile valley. It is early
in February, but the thermometer at midday stande 80° Fahrenheit, giving the climate of
advanced spring. Following the creek for about thirty miles, to our regret it flowed nearly
south, crossing three successive ranges of eruptive mountains, whose barriers were occasionally
broken into canons. There, having received an affluent from the east, it turned westward to
the junction with the Rio Colorado.

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

17

This stream, indicated upon old Spanish and English charts, is designated Eio Santa Maria.
Captain Sitgreaves, supposing when he saw its mouth that it was the same he had already-
named at its source in the mountains, calls it " Bill Williams' fork." It is an important stream,
draining an extensive tract of country heretofore unknown. Alternate sections of its valley
furnished scenery of strange contrasts. For five or six miles we follow marl bottoms, luxuriant
with vegetation, with a stream rapid, clear, and two feet deep, shaded by dense groves of alamo,
mezquite, and willow ; then, gradually yielding to a sandy soil, the water passes beneath the
surface, and for an equal distance we traverse a blank and dreary desert. There the quaint
cereus giganteus and humbler cactaceae, with occasional yuccas and curious shrubs, form a
landscape extremely singular, but of which one soon wearies. Fortunately, these barren wastes
seldom extend uninterruptedly above a few hours' march with the train.

Although our route equalled all we had reason to anticipate, it yet seems probable that the
main eastern branch would lead through a more favorable country, by the Black Mountain to
" Val de Chino." Thence a reconnaissance eastwardly might discover a passage through the
Black Forest across the headwaters of Kio San Francisco, and unite with our trail upon Canon
Diablo, near the Colorado Chiquito.

What we saw of this country was full of interest to each department of science. There were
extensive forests, abounding with game ; wide grass valleys, affording pasturage to innumerable
herds of deer ; crystal brooks alive with trout, their fertile banks once cultivated and now lined
with ash and walnut timber. From the heights were frequently seen, looking down upon us,
the fleet cimaron, or mountain goat. That this solitude had not always been unbroken by man,
was shown by the numerous ruins of stone houses that lined the borders of the streams, and the
still high walls of extensive fortifications that covered the heights surrounding.

We traversed this region in winter, but the climate was that of spring, and vegetation was
already rapidly advancing. Unpropitious as was the season, the botanist found much to delight
him. New species of trees and tropical shrubs were collected ; rare and beautiful plants were
obtained ; strange forms and unknown species of cactaceae were gathered.

It was a beautiful view that burst upon us, as we ascended a hill and first beheld the Colorado
sweeping from the northwest to unite with Bill Williams' fork, almost beneath our feet. One
long and loud huzza burst spontaneously from the men, sending a thrill through every nerve.
Their dreamy forebodings were cast upon its waters, and all felt relieved from a burden of
anxieties.

The river appeared three or four hundred yards wide, with a dark and reddish hue, flowing
with a swift current between bluff banks worn through the midst of wide alluvial bottoms.
The valley was sprinkled with large alamos, and bounded by hills leading back to sharp ridges
of mountains, by which below the junction it was contracted to a canon. Upon the opposite
side seemed a succession of mountains, which, receding from the river towards the northwest,
terminated about ten miles above. There a wide plane seemed to extend indefinitely westward,
and possibly might lead in about one hundred miles to San G-orgonio Pass, the fine puerto
discovered by Lieutenant Williamson, to the valley of Los Angeles.

Ascending the left bank of the river about twenty miles over soil evidently rich, and in some
places showing evidence of having been cultivated, we reached a point where spurs from the
mountain impinged upon the river, forming an unexpected obstacle to the progress of our wagons.
Labor for a few days, perhaps for a few hours, might probably have cut around their points a
practicable way. But our time was precious ; it was doubtful whether, with the utmost dili-
gence, we could reach the settlements before our supply of subsistence should be exhausted.
Therefore, abandoning our wagons, except a light vehicle to which was attached the viameter,
and in which the lighter instruments were carried, we packed upon mules our collections, pro-
visions, and necessaries, and cached such things as we could spare. Then crossing the spurs,
we entered the fine valley of the Chemehuevis Indians. They are a band of the great Pai-ute
3

18

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

("Pah-Utah.") nation, but live separate and distinct from the mountain robbers, whom we
shall have occasion again to mention. This band contains probably two hundred warriors —
short, but robust and well formed, with regular features, and a pleasing air of activity and
intelligence. They received us kindly, and flooded our camp with a portion of the surplus
produce of their fields for trade. The principal articles of traffic were beans, squashes, maize,
and wheat — the latter usually ground to flour. Although the season was the latter part of
February, when their winter's store had been consumed and the quantity for seed reserved, still
the supply seemed limited only by the demand. Their villages were mostly upon the west bank
of the river, and covered considerable space ; yet of the fertile soil thus occupied not one acre
in a hundred seemed cultivated.

We were now met by Mojaves, who, acting as guides around the next spur that formed a
canon, conducted the surveying party through a pass, invisible from the river, where not a hill
intervened.

We now entered that great basin of the Colorado, several miles in width, and probably forty
miles in length, which for ages — since the first visit of the Spaniards — has been the home of
the Mojave tribe.

Successively, as we approached their several villages, five principal chiefs, each with his own
particular band of warriors, met us in state, with all the forms and ceremonies with which tbey
are wont to dignify great events. When informed of the object of our visit they were greatly
pleased. They met in council, and determined to do all in their power to advance the interests
of the Pacific railway survey.

They loaded us with provisions of flour and beans in return for cast-off clothing, and sent two
guides, Ir-i-te-ba and Cai-rook, to conduct us to the intersection of the Salt Lake road with
Mojave river.

The valley of the Rio Colorado forms a distinguishing feature in the topography of the western
portion of the continent. It is the recipient of all the waters that drain the basin between the
Sierra Madre and Sierra Nevada, or coast range, and extends, from its sources in the Rocky
Mountains, to the Gulf of California. This region abounds in barren hills, naked plains, and
wild canons ; yet it has frequent fertile spots, where water and timber are plenty, and where
valleys of considerable extent have narrow belts of fertile soil. As instances, we may mention
Rio Gila, Colorado Chiquito, Bill Williams' fork, and Rio Mojave. All contain, to a greater
or less extent, soil favorable to agriculture. The southern bank of the Rio Gila, lately acquired
by treaty from Mexico, contains large tracts of land capable of being irrigated and of producing
excellent crops. Pimo Indians from time immemorial — certainly since they were first visited
by Coronado, in 1540 — have cultivated cotton of excellent quality. Specimens, which I showed
to gentlemen in Texas, were pronounced nearly equal to the best Sea Island cotton of South
Carolina. Tobacco, maize, wheat, beans, and melons, are also cultivated by Pimos and Mari-
copas upon the Gila. The soil upon all the rivers above mentioned would, doubtless, produce
similar crops.

But the valley of Rio Colorado itself affords a large extent of fertile bottom-land, which may
be perfectly irrigated and easily cultivated. The soil is pronounced to be far superior to that
of the Del Norte, and being elevated at the Mojave only three hundred and fifty feet
above the sea, the climate is milder and more tropical. As the Mojaves, Chemehuevis,
Cuchans, and Cocopas, all cultivate without irrigation, it is probable that more rain falls here
than in New Mexico. Judging from our own experience, and the robust health and fine per-
sonal appearance of all the Colorado Indians, no climate could be more salubrious. There are
probably from one hundred and fifty to two hundred square miles of arable land in one tract
occupied by Mojaves. The Chemehuevis, a band of Pai-utes, possess a tract of about thirty
square miles. Below, near the junction of Bill Williams' fork, is a basin containing about
thirty square miles. Thence, to within a short distance of the mouth of Rio Gila, I have no
personal knowledge. The map of Captain Sitgreaves indicates an extensive valley there, not less

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

19

than eighty miles long, and averaging, at least, five miles in width, making four hundred square
miles. It is occupied bythree hands of Indians — " Yampais," "Cu-chans," and " Mojaves."
From ten to fifteen miles above the junction of Eio Gila to the mouth of Rio Colorado is a wide
strip of bottom-land, averaging, for ninety or a hundred miles, from ten to fifteen miles in width,
giving at least one thousand square miles. Looking from the desert south, an extensive tract of
country, from fifty to sixty miles in width, appears the bed of an ancient lake, now possessing a
fertile soil, and capable of irrigation from the Colorado. Without this last, we have already
estimated sixteen hundred and sixty square miles of arable land upon the Colorado. Beside
maize, wheat, beans and melons, which, without irrigation, Indians now cultivate so abundantly,
the soil and climate are remarkably adapted to the cultivation of cotton, sugar-cane, and rice.
There can be no doubt that the valley of the Colorado is destined, at some future day, to be
divided into plantations, supporting a numerous population.

The river itself is worthy of some consideration. From the Mojave villages to near its
confluence with the gulf, the average width of the stream is from three hundred to five hundred
yards. When at the junction of the Gila with the Colorado, in October and November, 1849,
no change was apparent in the height of the stream ; this is the dryest season of the year, and
no ford was known upon the river. From the mouth of Bill Williams' fork to Mojave villages,
no place occurred where the depth of the channel was less than five or six feet. The current is
rapid, but apparently not more so than that of the Ohio. The height, at the confluence of Bill
Williams' fork, is two hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea ; distant, by course of
the river, three hundred miles. This estimate would give an average inclination to the stream
of nine-tenths of a foot per mile, slightly exceeding that of the navigable waters of the Arkansas.
Steamboats navigate already as high as the mouth of Bio Grila, eighty miles from the Gulf,
furnishing supplies to Fort Yuma. Captain Sitgreaves states that, at his camp No. 51, a large
rock occupies the middle of the channel. This is supposed to be the principal bar to the navi-
gation of this river to the Mojave villages. The rock could be removed by blasting ; and then,
should the railroad follow the route that has been indicated, this navigable river would bear to
and from the Mojave depot commerce of no inconsiderable value.

About forty miles above the junction of Bill Williams' fork we left the Colorado at the mouth
of a dry arroyo, heretofore supposed to be the bed of Bio Mojave. Gradually ascending the
barren slope of the hill-side ten miles from the Colorado, we found several small springs of good
water. Twenty miles beyond, we encamped upon a pretty rivulet, which watered a small valley
that had been converted by the mountain P^ai-utes into a luxuriant garden. Passing the crest
of a hill, and leaving to our right the wide valley supposed to belong to Mojave river, by a
gradual ascent over wide prairies of rich grama grass, we reached a rocky glen, where were springs
abounding in excellent water. No timber was here, although low cedars afforded plenty of fuel.

From Rock spring, five miles led us to the summit, fifty miles beyond and 5,292 feet above
Rio Colorado ; the grades, however, by detours upon the ascending slopes, need not exceed
seventy feet per mile.

We then passed into a dry ravine leading to Soda lake, which seems to absorb the waters of
Rio Mojave. Turning from the valley of the ravine referred to, we ascended the hill-side, where,
nineteen miles from Rock spring, were oozing, from an outcrop of marl, small rills of water.
Should deep holes be dug, or tanks be constructed at this place, an abundant supply of water
might doubtless be obtained.

The vegetation of this region consists of beautiful palm-like yuccas, cactacea3, larrea, and
patches of grass. From " Marl Springs " we ascended the mountain, to cut off a detour made
by the surveying party, through a fine looking valley to our left. Crossing granitic hills, we
Boon saw upon our right a row of volcanic buttes and metamorphic mountains, beyond which
appeared a deep and wide valley, probably that of the veritable Mojave.

In the far horizon north is seen a snow-white peak, said to bo on Rio Virgin, or Santa Clara.
Northwest, stands in high relief the lofty range of the Sierra Nevada, between which and Bio
Colorado have been counted nine distinct ranges of mountains.

20

EXTEACTS FEOM [PEELIMINAEY] EEPOET.

Passing on, we soon came to a ridge and commenced our descent ; at first steep, then more
gentle, along an arroyo, to a puerto at the foot of a large metamorphic mountain, where we had
a view westward to the great valley before seen. In the midst seemed a lake, supposed to be
mirage ; to the left, however, curled a tall column of smoke, where, undoubtedly, were the
camp-fires of the advance party, and water.

Having travelled about fourteen miles, we made a noon halt. The country traversed looked
dreary — a mass of rock and gravel without useful vegetation.

At 5 p. m. we proceeded two miles down the arroyo and entered a field of drifted sand. By
moonlight the effect was beautiful ; it seemed a fairy scene, with the bright and placid firma-
ment above, and the earth beneath covered with snow-white sand. The air was fresh, not cold,
and all seemed to enjoy the march. Mexicans and Americans were singing, each his favorite
song, as easily we trod the hard surface of drift. Even mules and the carretela had made but
light impressions upon the compact surface. Two or three miles of this interesting but dreary
prospect, which, sweeping from the southwest, seemed to extend indefinitely towards the north,
brought us to a puerto in a low rocky ridge of hills, upon the northwest side of which, sand,
piled nearly to the top, left bare the summits only.

Soon we struck the smooth bottom of a lake of efflorescent salts, probably sulphate of soda.
Traversing this with a good road for about six miles, at 10 o'clock in the night we reached the
camp of Lieutenant Ives, where water and grass were abundant ; the latter was salt and the former
brackish. Mules drank freely, but the water was unpalatable to men. By viameter, our distance
from Marl springs is thirty-one miles, the greatest jornada upon our route. For nearly half the
distance the soil is hard gravel ; ten miles are sandy, the remainder being upon the hard clay
forming the bed of the lake.

By results of the survey, Soda lake is found to be seven hundred and sixty-six feet above our
crossing of the Colorado, the distance by trail being ninety-seven miles, and the average descent
eight feet per mile.

Whether a channel exists by which the Mojave river finds its way to the Colorado is a problem
not yet solved. We regretted exceedingly that time for a closer examination was not at our
disposal. Our trusty Indian guide, however, assured us that the dry channel of that stream
passed uninterruptedly north of our route to the Colorado, and that wagons could pass through
it without encountering a hill

Such a route as he describes, with water found by digging, is undoubtedly the most favorable
for a railway that exists across the desert west from the Colorado river.

The true channel of the Mojave river, where it- enters Soda lake, is but a bed of sand, which
we ascend thirteen miles before finding running water. There it is a rapid rivulet, its clear
waters making melody with the pebbly shore. A few miles higher up on the stream barrenness
gave place to fertility ; tulares, grass, alamos, and willows, covered rich meadows.

The river here is fifty yards in width and knee-deep. Mezquite trees, tornillas loaded with
fruit, form occasional thickets.

For seventy-five or eighty miles above our course followed the gentle'meanderings of Rio
Mojave. The soil of the valley is rich, and there is plenty of water for irrigation, although
occasionally it disappears for a short distance beneath the surface. There are cotton wood and
mezquite for fuel. Timber is scarce and small, except near the sources of the stream in the San
Bernardino mountains, where magnificent oaks, pines and spruce occur.

At the point of leaving the river we found it one hundred and fifty yards wide, and two and
a half feet deep ; its alluvial bottoms still fertile and densely covered with alamos and willows.
Mounting the left bank, we found large springs gushing from the verdant slope. The air
thermometer reading 15°. 9 Cent., the temperature of the spring water was 19°. 1 Cent. =
66°. 4 Fahrenheit ; which, probably, is the mean temperature of the climate in this region.

Ascending the wide-swelling prairie which leads to all the passes near the junction of the

EXTEACTS FEOM [pEELIMINAEY] EEPOET.

21

Sierra Nevada with the coast range, our course was directed south 38° west towards an apparent
gap in the mountains east of the snow-capped peaks of Sierra San Bernardino. Crass is
thinly scattered over the plain, and heautiful yucca trees ahound thirty feet in height. Sweet-
herried cedars began to appear, affording excellent fuel. The Mojave river, not far upon our
left, divides into three branches, heading in the mountains ; the most eastern said to take its
rise near Cajon Pass.

Proceeding through groves of yuccas beautiful as cocoanut and palms of southern climates,
and dense thickets of cedars, by a gradual ascent, averaging probably sixty feet to the mile,
we reached the summit of Cajon Pass, where the mercury measured 25.4 inches. Standing
upon the crest, one could look far towards the north and northeast over immense prairies of
gentle inclination. This pass appears the most truly difficult part of our route. It seemed,
however, possible, by winding from the Pacific side around the slope of the mountain, thus
increasing the distance, to locate the route upon a spur bounding the valley of Cajon creek, to
the foot of the crest of drift over which passes the road. Here may commence a tunnel of
about four or five miles in length, and eight hundred feet below the surface at the summit ;
tbence becoming gradually less, until it issues upon the prairie slope near the Mojave river.
The material is easily excavated, and would be useful in forming embankments required to cross
a ravine leading to the spur referred to above. The termini, at least, will require arching ;
within, the rock may be firm enough to support the superincumbent weight.

In Cajon creek are boulders of marble, crystalline, white and pure as possible. This would
form building material of incomparable beauty ; there are also, probably, in the mountains,
veins of it affording good quarries. Auriferous quartz has also been found in this vicinity.
The botanist was delighted with the western slope of -the Sierra Nevada, affording a class of
vegetation new to our route. Pour different species of cactaceas were found upon the first mile
of our descent — a new pinon, a new and magnificent oak, two new species of firs or pines, a
currant, sycamore, and cowania. The hills are covered with a verdant red-barked shrub ; the
mountains with oaks and pines of many varieties. Here we find abundant material for the
construction of a railway. With a few exceptions, this range of mountains must be our main
dependence for supplies of pine timber until we may meet the forests of San Francisco
mountains.

We descended about twelve hundred and fifty feet in eleven miles from the first point of
striking the arroyo at the foot of the ridge. As we proceeded, the valley opened finely ;
mountain torrents swelled the creek, that boiled and fretted with granitic rocks. The descent
became less steep, and the sides of the valley were regular slopes, where a railway might
ascend so as to rise far above the bed of the creek, and diminish the grade to one hundred feet
per mile in the canon above.

This development diminishes the obstacles of Cajon Pass. The work will not be so ex-
tremely difficult nor expensive as at first seemed probable. Our greatest regret is, that it leads
not directly to a port as safe and commodious as that of San Francisco.

Having descended the Cajon creek about five miles, we left the way to San Bernardino, and
keeping the road west, under the base of the mountain, entered a region of great beauty. We
travelled twenty miles along a descent inappreciable to tbe eye, and arrived at Cocomongo
rancho, where we encamped upon the beautiful stream that waters it.

We continued our course west-southwest, by a road nearly as level and smooth as if graded
for a railway, twenty-four miles to " El Monte." The valley traversed is continuous from the
Cajon, fifteen to twenty-five miles in width, with soil abundantly rich, fertile, and at present
well watered. Some of the streams crossed — Cocomongo, San Jose, and Kancho de Chino —
are fed by permanent springs. Many others owe their origin to melting snows of the moun-
tains. All were charmed by the beautiful scenery and heavenly climate. Fine spreading
oaks and sycamores were sprinkled in pleasing variety with flowering shrubs through the
valley. *

22

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

From El Monte, passing a few hills, we enter the valley of Los Angeles. The stream upon
which it is situated is about fifty yards wide and two feet deep. There were numerous acequias
irrigating vineyards, orange and olive groves, peach orchards, gardens, and corn fields. Even
as early as March 21st, full-grown oranges were seen ripening in the open air.

The town had the sombre cast of a Spanish pueblo, relieved, as it were, by innovations of
American comforts. There was the bustle and activity of a business place. Many new houses
were in process of construction. Everywhere was indicated a thriving population and a land
of intrinsic wealth. Los Angeles is said to number five thousand inhabitants.

Our course from Los Angeles was twenty-four miles nearly south, over the low plains and a
slight ridge, to the port of San Pedro. The town is situated on a bluff thirty feet above the
ocean. Spring tides here rise nine or ten feet — neap tides from four to five. Small vessels, by
crossing the bar with ten or twelve feet at high water, enter a basin at the mouth of San
Gabriel river, where they are perfectly secure. A city has there been laid out, but its success
is problematical.

At the playa (port,) shipping is said to be completely sheltered, except from southeast
winds, which seldom occur, and only in winter. During the last season but one such storm
occurred, and a ship in port rode it out at anchor. A breakwater, it is said, of about a mile
in length, would afford complete protection even to a fleet ; and wharves could be extended to
deep water, so as to afford every advantage of a first rate harbor.

For a great portion of the route from the Mississippi we followed natural channels, where
streams flow nearly east and west. The river Arkansas and the Canadian lead us to the base of the
Rocky Mountains. Thence crossing table-lands to Rio Pecos, we ascend to the head of the
Galisteo, which is followed to Rio del Norte. Descending Rio del Norte to Albuquerque, we
cross to the Puerco and join Rio San Jose, which leads to Ojo del Oso, near Campbell's Pass,
the summit of Sierra Madre. We now reach Rio Puerco of the west, which furnishes a
valley to Rio Colorado Chiquito. The latter carries us to Chevelon's fork, where we turn wes
ward, crossing the final spur of Mogoyon mountain and the headwaters of Rio San Francisco,
to a branch of Bill Williams' fork, which leads to the Colorado. Thence we would propose to
ascend to the mouth of Mojave river and follow the bed of that stream to the base of Sierra
Nevada. The route should traverse, thence, the northern slope of the San Bernardino spur,
which is said to furnish numerous rivulets, bearing clear waters into the sandy plains below.
Approaches from the east to the various passes in this range — "Walker's," " Canada de las
Uvas," and " Tejon" — are known to be favorable. To examine these passes minutely, in
order to determine that which shall be available for a railway to San Francisco, was a duty
intrusted to another, whose labors, it is hoped, will be crowned with success.

As the shortest line to the Pacific ocean, we proceeded to San Pedro through the Cajon Pass,
which is, indeed, difficult ; but, should no better be found, ought not to be esteemed a barrier
to the construction of a Pacific railway.

More specific information regarding the feasibility of this route for a railway, I beg leave to
present in the form of reports from my principal assistants upon the survey.

That of the railroad surveyor is designed to speak more definitely upon the most favorable
curves and grades available upon this line, and the labor required to construct the railway.

The geologist and mining engineer notices the rocks, and their adaptation to the purposes of
construction ; also the positions of beds of coal and mines of precious metals.

The botanist describes the forest trees, the quality and amount of timber, the produce of the
soil, and its adaptation to agricultural purposes.

The zoologist refers to the game noticed upon the route ; their habits and means of subsistence.

The details of our operations, with the results of the scientific investigations to be deduced
from them, are necessarily deferred to the subsequent part of this report.

EXTRACTS FEOM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

23

CHAPTER V.

REMARKS OP A. H. CAMPBELL, PRINCIPAL ASSISTANT RAILROAD ENGINEER, UPON THE GRADES AND CURVES REQUIRED.

General Description. — From Fort Smith to the Pecos there is very little to impede the con-
struction of a railway. But I think the opinion that has heen pretty generally expressed
throughout the country that a railway may he located anywhere, in whatever direction, across
the prairies, between the western frontiers of our States and the Rocky Mountains, other things
being equal, as cheap or cheaper than in the United States generally, is erroneous — particu-
larly so with reference to that portion of the plains passed over by our exploration. These
extended prairies being devoid of trees, affording an almost unlimited range of vision, became
softened by the effect of distance, and present the appearance of one uninterrupted surface as
wild, and as wide, and as smooth as the ocean ; but in detail they are exceedingly uneven, being
cut up by deep ravines, with elevated spurs and ridges between them, some of them impracticable
except by heavy summit cuttings and enormous embankments across the valleys. There are,
however, many favorable streams which take their rise under the Eocky Mountains, and flow
eastward to the Mississippi and its tributaries, and it is in the valleys of these streams that
the cheapest and best railway routes are found ; the passage from one valley to another requiring
the same system of ascents and descents as most of the locations in the States.

Among the most remarkable and most favorable of these streams, in point of length and
directness and easiness of occupation, is the Canadian. The valley of this stream is prac-
ticable from its mouth to one of its sources near the Pecos, being, with but few exceptions,
broad and free from obstacle. A shorter and perhaps cheaper line may be had south of this
river, from Forth Smith to the Antelope Hills, near the 100th meridian of west longitude,
thereby cutting off the great bends and avoiding the earthy bluffs which are worn away by the
action of the waters. These bluffs occur at intervals as far west as the Shawnee settlements.

From Fort Smith to Antelope Hills. — The principal cut-off would be from Fort Smith to
Chouteau's old trading post, and from this point to the Antelope Hills. From Fort Smith a good
route extends up the Poteau river some ten or twelve miles, where it can be crossed more
favorably on account of its high banks ; thence up the valley of a small creek, one of its tribu-
taries, called Basil creek. This valley heads in a small range of mountains, or hills rather,
which extend nearly parallel with Sans Bois creek. Passing this summit with a grade of about
fifty feet per mile as a maximum, we get upon the waters of the Sans Bois creek, down which
we descend to its great bend near Cooper's creek, thence up the main branch to the divide
between it and Gaines' creek. This summit is an inconsiderable one, requiring about forty-
five feet per mile as a maximum grade. Following down Gaines' creek to its junction with
Coal creek, the main branch of the south fork of Canadian ; thence up the valley of Coal creek
to its head, crossing the divide between the Boggy, a tributary of Red river, and the Canadian,
about nine miles south of Shawnee village; continuing along the slopes of this ridge, across tho
gently rolling prairies, with occasional strips of woodland heading one of the leading streams
of the Boggy, crossing Marcy's wagon trail about ten miles west of Shawnee Town to a low
place in the Canadian "divide;" thence down the slopes to that river, near the mouth of
Topofki creek. From the head of Coal creek to this point it is believed there will be required
no grade exceeding fifty-two feet per mile.

From Topofki creek to the mouth of Walnut (Simpson) or Chouteau's (Marcy) creek the
route lies up the Canadian; keeping up "Walnut creek to its source in the " divide," along the
"divide" for several miles, descending by a gradual slope to Deer creek; thence up this creek to
its source ; thence for several miles along the divide ; thence down to one of the valleys of the Wash-
ita ; up this inviting stream to its source in the sharp "divide" about twelve miles east of the
Antelope Hills ; thence by a gentle descent to the Canadian. The advantages of this over the river

24

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

route is, that it will save about thirty-five miles of distance ; and, besides, it passes a well watered
and timbered region as far as the Cross Timbers. The valleys of the Walnut and Deer creeks and
the Washita are well timbered, and afford an abundance of good land, and a constant supply
of water.

From near the Antelope or Boundary Hills the valley of the Canadian is the proper route,
from its directness, gentle ascent, and ready supply of water. Its general course is nearly due
west to tbe mouth of Tecumcari creek, and the ascent of these (the one I believe the tribu-
tary of the other) very gradual to the summit between them and the Pecos.

From Fort Smith to the Antelope Hills the cost of the graduation, bridging, and masonry,
other tbings being equal, would not, I am of opinion, come up to the average cost of the rail-
ways of New England. The soil is loose and gravelly, and the rocks of coarse sandstone, but
very little rock-cutting necessary, and fine timber of oak, maple, hickory, walnut, pecan, and
pine, is abundant as far as Deer creek ; and there is some timber, principally cotton wood, upon
the Washita. It may be said of the whole route from Arkansas to the Pecos, that it will compare
most favorably with any similar extent of railway east of the Mississippi in point of grade,
curvature, and ease of construction.

Passing the divide between the waters of the Canadian and the Pecos about one and a half
mile north of our encampment on "Hoorah" creek, with light excavation and easy grades, the
most favorably route extends over a nearly level prairie to the Gallinas valley. The valley of
this stream is easy of access and egress, there being suitable valleys for occupation ; and, indeed,
from this point to the Pecos, about four or five miles above Anton Chico, the ground is exceed-
ingly favorable. The maximum grade from the Canadian divide to this point, it is believed, will
not exceed forty-five feet per mile — the graduation light, the soil being loose and gravelly.

From the Pecos to Albuquerque, via Rio San Antonio, or Canon Carnuel. — The problem of
leaving the Pecos is a more difficult one than we have yet had to solve. There are, however,
two methods which are practicable in the vicinity of our exploration, and I doubt not that, by
following the river to one of its valleys heading with the G-alisteo, a very easy mode of crossing
the Kocky Mountain range can be accomplished. To determine a suitable point for crossing
near Anton Chico, and to even approximate to its cost, would require very careful surveys with
the level and the compass. The approach from the east is not so difficult. The river can be
crossed with a single span of 150 feet at Anton Chico, or about half a mile below with a
less span.

Proceeding, then, from either of those points, one route would lead up a small valley south of
the town, which heads in the elevated plateaux through which the Pecos canons, as at Cuesta ;
pursuing a westerly course thence, over a rolling region, to Canon Blanco. The average ascent
per mile to this point is but forty-three feet, but the maximum grade for the first ten miles will
be at least eighty feet per mile. The other route from the Pecos would cross the river some four
or five miles above the town by a viaduct, at an elevation of from one hundred and fifty to two
hundred feet; thence to a point some ten or twelve miles from Anton Chico, connecting with
the other route to the summit between Canon Blanco and the Pecos. This route would be
several miles the shorter, and the maximum grade probably not exceed seventy feet per mile. The
great cost of a viaduct on this route, however, would render it a question as to which of these
routes would be preferable. From the entrance to Canon Blanco, the line explored pursues that
canon to near its western limit ; thence over the divide, into the basin between the Eocky Moun_
tains and the Pecos. For several miles the ground descends in the canon to about halfway
through ; thence ascends to the divide above mentioned. The drainage of this canon is south-
easterly, probably to the Pecos, the main cleft opening and descending in that direction. The
grades through Canon Blanco will be light, not exceeding twenty feet per mile, except at the
western limits, where it will require at least sixty feet grade, and from thirty-five to forty feet
cutting, to attain the summit. From this summit, a little south of Las Lagunas, to the main
ummit of the Eocky Mountains, at the San Pedro mountain, the line traverses a rolling country,

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

25

descending at an average rate per mile of about thirty-three feet to the lowest point of this basin,
which drains, it is supposed, into or towards Las Salinas. From this point the San Pedro Pass
can be approached with a grade of about thirty-five feet per mile. This pass divides the waters
which flow into the Rio Tuerto from those that flow into, or towards, Las Salinas About nine
miles further is another pass or summit, which divides the waters of the Tuerto from those of
the Rio San Antonio, in the Canon de Carnuel, with a forty feet cut at the San Pedro summit, and
a descending grade of about eight feet per mile for seven miles. We pass the second summit with
only about forty-feet cutting, and thence descend at the rate of about eighty-two feet per mile
for thirteen miles ; thence down the sloping mesa to the Rio Grande, opposite Isleta, at a rate
of about from twelve to fifteen feet per mile. At Isleta the Rio Grande contracts through a
comparatively narrow gorge, presenting a most favorable point for crossing. Three spans of
from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet will effect this object, there being a bluff on
both sides favorable for landing, without embankments.

From Isleta the line continues across the elevated spur which lies between the Rio Grande
and the Puerco. To attain this summit without excavation, the rock being basalt and lava, a
grade of fifty-three feet per mile ascending, and of forty feet per mile descending, will be
required.

We are now, as it were, at the base of the Sierra Madre, at the mouth of the San Jose, which
heads on its summit, affording three points for crossing, viz : one point near the Zuni road, or
Camino del Obispo ; the other by the Canon del Gallo and Zuni Pass ; and the third by Camp-
bell's Pass, on the Fort Defiance road. The valley of the San Jose extends uninterruptedly to
the summit of the mountains, heading in the last named pass with the Rio Puerco of the West.
This pass lies about due west from Sierra de San Mateo, or Mount Taylor, and is entered by a
wide and beautiful and apparently level valley, the narrowest point at the summit being about
three miles. Its northern side is composed of high, red sandstone bluffs, surmounted by escarp-
ments of yellow sandstone ; the former appears to have assumed every fantastic form in Gothic
architecture. The south side of the pass is formed by the great spurs of the Zuni mountains.
The Zuni group of the Sierra Madre trends northwesterly from the Camino del Obispo, and
terminates in this pass. The Rio Puerco of the West heads east of, and turns the point of these
mountains, and extends southwesterly, with a uniform descent, to its junction with the Colorado
Chiquito. The average ascent of this valley of the San Jose from its mouth is about twenty-
three feet per mile, but the maximum grade, it is believed, will be only about thirty-five feet per
mile to pass the mountains. A light cut through the loose and gravelly soil at the culminating
point, and we descend to the Colorado Chiquito, by the Puerco of the West, uninterruptedly,
at an average descent of thirty feet per mile.

At a point called the " Hay Camp," on the San Jose, this valley divides, one branch heading
near the Camino del Obispo ; and several miles above, another valley, the Canon del Gallo,
occurs, which begins in the Zuni Pass. This latter valley was not explored, but it is much
lower than the Camino del Obispo, and is represented by intelligent Mexicans and others who
have passed it as being very favorable for a railroad, presenting no very great obstacle to its
construction. A trail for pack-mules from Zuni to the Ojo del Gallo, at the mouth of Canon
del Gallo, threads through this gorge. From all I learned and all I saw when in the vicinity
of this pass, I am of opinion that a grade of between sixty and seventy feet per mile will suffice
to cross the mountain at this point ; the descent thence to the Pueblo de Zuni is very gradual.

The route by the Camino del Obispo is more difficult and will require an ascending grade of
eighty feet per mile, and a tunnel at the summit of about three-quarters of a mile in length.
Descending to Zuni, this route traverses a gently sloping and well-watered valley, with a grade
not exceeding sixty feet per mil©. From Zuni to the Rio Puerco, at camp No. 74, (Navajoe
spring,) the line passes over the rolling country between Zuni creek and the Puerco, with
undulating grades, the maximum not exceeding twenty-five feet per mile. From the mouth, of.
4

26

EXTEACTS EEOM [PEELIMINAEY] EEPOET.

the Puerco of the West the route continues down the Colorado Chiquito for seventy-five miles,
with an average descent of only six feet per mile, thence striking west to the pass south of the
San Francisco mountain. By the route surveyed the distance from the river to this pass is
forty-two miles, with grades of forty, forty-six, and forty-five feet per mile. By leaving the
Colorado Chiquito further east than the point of survey, this grade may he materially modified.
Passing this summit, the route continues west for thirty miles over an undulating region north
of Bill Williams' mountain, through thick pine forests, with undulating but descending grades,
the maximum being about thirty feet per mile. Here a small summit is passed which divides
the waters of the San Francisco from those flowing northwesterly towards the Little and Great
Colorado. With light work here the proper route turns southwesterly towards the Val de Chino,
a tributary of the San Francisco river, a distance of forty-five miles, with a maximum grade of
forty feet per mile. Crossing this valley to reach Pueblo creek, an ascending grade of fifty
feet per mile for fourteen miles, thence an ascending grade of forty-five feet per mile for fifteen
miles, enables us to make the Aztec Pass with forty feet cutting.

The Aztec Pass divides the waters that flow into the San Francisco and Bill Williams' fork,
the former flowing to the Gila, and the latter to the Great Colorado. From this pass the best
route would continue down this stream to near camp No. 108 ; thence over a small divide
between Canon creek and White Cliff creek ; thence down the latter to its junction with Big
Sandy, the main branch of Bill Williams' fork. From Aztec Pass, for fifteen miles, the descend-
ing grade will be sixty-five feet per mile ; thence across the Canon and White Cliff creeks
summit, with light work, and down White Cliff creek thirty miles to the mouth of Canon creek,
with a descending grade of fifty-one feet per mile, the descent, via Canon creek, from camp No.
108 would be about seventy-five feet per mile, through a deep canon of basaltic rock. From
the mouth of Canon creek the valley of Big Sandy and Bill Williams' fork presents no obstacle
that cannot easily be overcome, either in grade or curvature, to the Great Colorado. In the
Striped canon there are several salient points which it will be necessary to tunnel to the extent
of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet, in order to maintain a workable curve.

Between camps Nos. 120 and 121 Big Sandy unites with Bill Williams' fork, which comes
from the northeast. From a careful examination of my topographical notes, triangulations,
deductions, &c, I feel confident in stating ray opinion as to the source of this fork — that it is
in a pass which we saw some few miles to the south of us, between the Black mountain and
Mount Hope. By a slight detour in the Val de Chino, this pass can be attained, and the valley
of Bill Williams occupied for the route there, by saving about fifty miles of distance and the
probability of an uninterrupted descent of about twenty-eight feet per mile.

Following up the left bank of the Great Colorado, whose ascent for thirty-four miles is about
one and a half foot per mile, a suitable point for crossing was found among the " Needles," a
series of porphyritic and trap dikes, through which the stream forces a passage. Notwith-
standing the formidable appearance of the rocks at a casual glance, there are but three points
where they infringe directly upon the river, and these points are quite narrow and easily perfo-
rated or blasted off entirely. To cut off a large bend of the river in the Pah-Utah valley, grades
of about sixteen feet per mile will be necessary to pass the gravelly spurs of the plain. At the
crossing, the rocks afford enduring abutments, and the river, being one hundred and fifty yards
wide, easily spanned. From this point a proper location will be found, by leaving the river and
commencing the ascent of the high table lands that lie between the Great Colorado and the
Mohave rivers, through the pass hitherto supposed to be the embourchement of the latter, but
which was found to be but a dry bed of a stream heading in the elevated rim of the Great Basin,
which undoubtedly extends thus far south. Thence turning southeasterly to a junction with the
Sierra Nevada, at the San Bernardino mountain, the exploration continued west and through a
pass in the highest point of this river, there being much lower ground both to the north and
south of this point, as shown by the map. This pass is attainable, however, by practicable
grades, the maximum being about sixty-four feet per mile.

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

27

The distance from the " Needles " to the pass is about ninety miles. Cutting thirty feet
at this summit, we have an uninterrupted descent for fifty-six miles (following the detours of
a great valley) to Soda lake, an immense dry and sandy basin, in which the Mohave loses its
waters, at a maximum rate of only seventy-five feet per mile.

From Soda lake to the point on the Mohave at which the Spanish trail leaves that river, a
distance of ninety miles, the average ascent of the stream is hut eighteen feet per mile.
Leaving the river near this point, a route is practicable up the dry gullies which lead to the
summit of the Cajon Pass, at the wagon road, the narrowest point of the divide : the distance
to the pass is twenty-four miles. For nearly twenty miles the maximum grade will be about
sixty feet per mile ; thence through the divide by a tunnel of two and a half miles, (rock,
white conglomerated sandstone,) and grade of ninety feet per mile. A more favorable approach
to this pass is believed to exist at the head of the Mohave, close under the San Bernardino
mountain.

The stream which heads in the Cajon Pass, and flows to the Pacific, is very rapid in its
descent ; but the slopes on the right bank are regular, and are broken but in few places by
narrow gorges of tributary streams. This being the case, by descending with a grade of one
hundred feet per mile for about twenty miles — keeping up on the slopes of the mountain,
passing, by means of a short tunnel or heavy cutting, the salient spur which forms the right
bank of the stream below — the valley of Los Angeles is reached. From the foot of this grade,
keeping upon the slopes, for twelve miles the grade is lessened to sixty-three feet per mile.
This point is about half a mile east of Cocomongo rancho ; thence to the crossing of the Rio San
Gabriel, near the village of Monte, thirty miles, with a maximum of thirty-eight feet per mile ;
thence to the city of Los Angeles, with about the same light grade, or from the Monte to
the port of San Pedro, thirty miles, with a descent of about twelve feet per mile.

To make a minute estimate of the probable cost of a railway from the Mississippi to the
Pacific cannot come within the province of this exploration ; it being well known that, for
such a purpose, the most accurate and detailed measurements are required. The barometric
observations, however, have developed a most interesting profile, and are sufficiently reliable
to determine the great question of 'practicability beyond a doubt. There are but three points
on the entire route explored at which the work may be said to be difficult ; these are the Pecos,
the Canon de Carnuel, (at Albuquerque,) and the Cajon Pass in the Sierra Nevada.

And these sections will not differ by a comparison with the Baltimore and Ohio railroad
from Cumberland to Wheeling, or any of the railroads which cross the Alleghany mountains,
in point of grade, curvature, and boldness of graduation. There is but one point on the route
where it will be necessary to employ less than a 1000 feet radius ; this point is in Striped
Canon, on Bill Williams' fork.

In conclusion of this hasty statement, I desire to state that the few hours taken at intervals
from the calculations and arrangements for the barometric profile, and the superintendence of
and plotting of the topography on the general maps, have not been sufficient for a full consid-
eration of this important matter ; it is due, therefore, that proper allowance be made for its
hastiness.

Respectfully submitted :

ALBERT H. CAMPBELL,

Engineer and Surveyor.

Lieutenant A. W. Whipple,

United States Topographical Engineers,

In charge of exploration for a railroad route near 35th parallel.

jjc sjc »(j sjc !(c -t"

28

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

CHAPTER XI.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.

The concluding report will describe many new species both of plants and animals. We will
also be enabled to present to the department a complete geological and mineralogical section
from the Mississippi river through the Rocky Mountains, the Sierra Madre, the chains east of Kio
Colorado and the Sierra Nevada, to the Pacific ocean. This was a field new to science, and our
geologist, with abundant experience both in Europe and America, was well fitted for this explora-
tion. The various formations have been developed, the ages of mountain chains established, and
the position of mineral regions determined.

Specimens of rock for building material have been procured in order to test the qualities of
hardness, durability, and general adaption to the purposes of construction.

Sketches have been obtained of landscapes, as well as of animals, plants, Indian portraits,
scenes, ancient paintings, hieroglyphics, and curiosities.

An extensive series of meteorological and magnetic observations have been obtained for
climatological investigations, and for the determination of the elements of inclination, declina-
tion, and intensity, over the region traversed. They are necessarily deferred to the conclusion
of our operations.

In relation to this subject I would, however, refer to the accompanying climatological map,
with remarks prepared by L. Blodget, esq., from observations collected by the Smithsonian
Institution in connexion with those made during the survey. It will be perceived that the
parallel of 35° is particularly favored by rain. The valley of the Canadian, the Zuni region,
the vicinity of the San Francisco mountains, and the Aquarius range, have evidently a large
supply of precipitated moisture. The arid deserts between the Mississippi and the Pacific coast
are here contracted to thoir narrowest limits ; consequently, upon this route there are more
springs, more streams, and more woodland, than can be found upon lines I have traversed
further south.

The gradients found to be practicable are marked upon the profile.

Curves of less radius than half a mile occur only in the Cajon Pass, and on Canon and Big
Sandy creeks, where they break through low mountain chains of metamorphic rock. There are
there a few sharp turns, and it would be necessary in one place to tunnel through a point per-
haps four or five hundred feet in thickness to attain a radius of one thousand feet. The few
other bad places would require cutting, as upon the Hudson River railroad, at the edge of the
bluffs. But already it has been mentioned that the Cajon Pass is considered only as the last resort
for an entrance to the Pacific coast; and the firm belief that, by ascending the main eastern
branch of Bill Williams' fork, both Canon Creek and Big Sandy may be avoided.

The principal bridges would be required at Rio Pecos, Rio Del Norte, Canon Creek, and Rio
Colorado ; all others are of minor importance. The first and second have already been mentioned .
Canon Creek, I doubt not, may be avoided by following the main eastern branch of Bill Williams'
fork. Should it prove otherwise, it would be necessary to throw arches across the stream at
three several points where canons occur. The best of stone for this purpose is abundant in the
vicinity. Two excellent points for crossing the Colorado occur — one at the canon immediately
below the junction of Bill Williams' fork, the other where rocky spurs impinge upon the river
below the Mojave villages. The width of the stream between natural abutments, at these points,
does not exceed two hundred and fifty yards.

Our line could in many places be made straighter and shorter, should wells be dug at proper
points ; either common or artesian wells would undoubtedly be successful throughout the whole
distance from Fort Smith to Rio Pecos. Between that stream and the del Norte the strata are
too much broken to be depended upon. Westward there are points where they could probably
be made available. Rio Puerco, which at some seasons,, in places, sinks, could doubtless be

EXTRACTS

FKOM [PRELIMINARY]

REPORT.

29

reached by this means. If so, a very rich, soil, now unoccupied, would become available to
agriculture. The whole region from the Sierra Mad re to the Colorado Chiquito could probably
be fertilized by the same agency. With the desire to test this question, we carried a small
boring apparatus ; but not having time to devote to the undertaking, the instrument was sold
to certain citizens of New Mexico, who proposed to make a trial of its virtues. Between the
Colorado Chiquito and Rio Colorado, volcanic forces have too much tilted and broken the regular
strata to allow any dependence to be placed on this means of increasing the supply of water.
Fortunately, however, the southern slopes of the mountains abound in permanent springs and
streams, which renders the resort to wells unnecessary. From Rio Colorado to the Mojave
river, to avoid ascent to mountain springs, we must have recourse to artificial means of procuring
water. Should the Mojave have a channel to the Colorado, the water cannot pass below the
level of the latter stream, and by perforations to the proper depth, must be obtained. In Soda
lake, by turning the sod, we found an abundance of brackish water. Pure water would probably
be found twenty or thirty feet below the surface. Rio Mojave now furnishes an abundant supply
until we reach the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, from which numerous rivulets are said to
flow. After passing the Sierra Nevada, neither in the valley leading to San Pedro nor in those
we would follow to San Francisco, is want of water apprehended. "Wherever permanent streams
do not occur, common wells or artesian borings would prove available.

Snows upon this route can never prove the slightest obstruction to a railway. From Memphis,
on the Mississippi river, to Rio Pecos, snow storms rarely occur in winter. At Fort Smith,
as has been shown, only one such storm was noted in the winter of 1852 : that covered the
ground to the depth of two inches. From thence to the Pecos, snow may occasionally fall to
the depth of three or four inches, but must rapidly be absorbed by the warm, porous soil. I
doubt whether the surface would remain whitened for ten days during the year.

Passing the ranges of the Rocky Mountains east and the Sierra Madre west of the Rio Grande,
storms are said to be more frequent, covering the surface with snow sometimes to the depth of a
foot. But here, too, the snow quickly melts, and forms no obstruction to travellers. We
passed the latter range late in November, and not the slightest trace of snow was visible among
the loftiest peaks. The first seen was in December, glistening upon the distant peaks of Sierra
Mogoyon. During the latter part of December and the first of January we were at the base of the
San Francisco mountains, the only place where much snow was found upon our route. It never
exceeded eight inches in depth upon the surface, was nowhere drifted into banks, and formed
no obstruction to our march. We believed, nevertheless, that the season was unusually severe,
and the amount of snow fallen was almost unprecedented. Soon after leaving these mountains,
snow disappeared. But on the 18th of January, when on a reconnaissance in the Aztec moun-
tains, another storm occurred ; snow falling to the depth of four inches. Four days afterwards
we were again at the same spot, and the snow had nearly disappeared ; the southern slopes
were entirely bare. Leaving this range, we saw no more indications of snow except upon a
few distant mountain summits. Without doubt, between the Aztec Pass and California a few
storms may occur in winter, covering the surface with snow to the depth of three or four inches ;
but so mild a climate soon melts it away.

Fuel is believed to be more abundant upon this route than upon any other known from the
Mississippi to the Pacific. The State of Arkansas and the Choctaw territory, as far as Shawnee-
town, are covered with wood, excellent for fuel, and also furnish an abundance of coal. West-
ward of Shawneetown we have wood upon the streams, and live oak and blackjack in the Cross
Timbers to the head of the Washita ; thence to the Pecos are occasional forests of cedars, which
afford excellent fuel. From the Pecos to Albuquerque, and thence to Zuni, is a constant suc-
cession of pines, firs, and cedars. Coal, also, is found in this region. Beyond Zuni, cedar wood
covers a wide extent of country for about forty miles. Beyond, plenty of fuel could be floated
down the Colorado. Chiquito from the well wooded region of the Mogoyon, from whence it
issues. Near the headwaters of Rio San Francisco there are forests of pine, interspersed with
cedar thickets. These extend to the head of Bill Williams' fork. Thence to the Colorado, and

30

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

even to the base of Sierra Nevada, although there are many mezquites and alamos in the
valleys of the streams, and some cedars upon the hills, a general scarcity of fuel prevails.
Upon the mountain slopes of California, the supply both of timber and fuel is supposed to be
exhaustless.

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

From so hasty a survey, little more could be expected than to furnish approximate materials
for a rough estimate. The time allotted to the preparation of this part of the work scarcely
admits a reference to that data. It will be furnished to the department for future examination.

A few remarks, however, expressing merely in general terms the ideas impressed by the field
observations, may not be inapplicable to the conclusion of this subject. For this purpose I pro-
pose to divide the line into sections, and, by a comparison with roads already constructed, draw
an inference of the probable expense of completing the Pacific railway.

Section I. From Fort Smith to camp 33, near the head of Washita river, three hundred and
sixty-five miles. — The general surface is an inclination nearly uniform of four feet to the mile.
Following the line of profile 1, there are hills and undulating prairies, intersected by frequent
rivulets. The soil is fertile ; timber and stone for construction abundant. The labor required
for masonry and graduation will compare favorably with the average upon the railroads of the
State of New York. The average total cost for construction and equipment of New York rail-
roads, as reported by the State engineer, is $45091.84 per mile. As steamboat navigation
exists to the mouth of the Canadian, ten per cent, added ought certainly to cover all the extra-
ordinary expenses due to the locality described ; making $49,600 per mile, or $18,104,000 for
the total cost of construction and equipment of this section.

Section II. From camp 33, head of Washita river, to Tucumcari creek, twohundred and eighty-
one miles. — Following the valley of the Canadian, the average grade is eight feet per mile.
Although there is some good soil upon the streams, many sandy spots occur, and the general
aspect of this section is that of sterility. Water can easily be obtained ; but timber of good
quality for railroad ties is scarce. Cedars are abundant, it is true ; but it is doubtful whether
they would be available except for fuel. The main supply would, therefore, be of oak, obtained
from the Cross Timbers at the eastern end of the section. For graduation and masonry, our
standard of comparison may be the same as before. But increased expenses for transportation
will make it proper to add twenty per cent, to the original, making the estimate about $54,100
per mile, or for the section $15,202,000.

Section III. From Tucumcari creek to Albuquerque, two hundred and one miles. — Leaving the
Canadian river, the surface is undulating to Rio Pecos. Thence to Albuquerque much labor
will be required — equal, probably, to that employed upon the Hudson Ri^er road. The total cost
of construction and equipment of the latter is stated to be $81812.16 per mile. As good
timber is abundant upon the latter part of the line, and we are among a civilized people of
agricultural and pastoral pursuits, where wages of native labor are low, it is believed that thirty
per cent, added to our standard may, with proper economy, accomplish the work. This estimate
amounts to $106,355 per mile, and for the section $21,377,355.

Section IV. From Albuquerque to Zuni, one hundred and fifty-one miles. — The labor required
for graduation and masonry upon this section will be less than upon the last, and an abundance
of good timber and stone is easy of access. The cost of construction and equipment on this
portion of the route may be compared with the western railroad from Worcester to Albany,
which is $64,218 per mile. Adding forty per cent, for increased expenses of transportation,
&c, and our estimate amounts to about $90,000 per mile, equal to $13,590,000 for the section.

Section V. From Zuni to San Francisco Springs, one hundred and ninety-eight miles. —
Throughout this portion of the route excellent timber may easily be obtained from the Zuni
mountain of Sierra Madre, from Sierra Mogoyon by rafts down the Colorado Chiquito, and,

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

31

finally, in the vast forests in the midst of which this section terminates. Much of the distance
along the Colorado Chiquito, and elsewhere, heing nearly level, the lahor required for gradua-
tion and masonry will be quite light — probably less than that expended upon the Providence
and Worcester railroad, which cost, per niile, $44,774. Fifty per cent, added for extraordinary
expenses, gives about $67,161 per mile, and for the section $13,320,265.

Section VI. From the San Francisco Springs to the Bio Colorado, two hundred and seventy-
nine miles. — It has been already stated that over this section more favorable ground is believed
to exist south of the main portion of our route. If not, the labor of graduation and masonry
through the canoned creeks will far exceed that upon any previous portion of the road. It
would be similar to what was required along the cliffs of the highlands on the Hudson Eiver
road. But in estimating the cost, sixty per cent, increase will probably cover the extraordi-
nary expenses due to locality, provided the road be built continuously from the coast, so as to
furnish railway transportation for supplies. Total cost of construction and equipment of Hudson
Kiver road, $81812. 16 per mile. Add sixty per cent., and we have about $131,000 per mile,
and for the section $36,549,000.

Section VII. From Bio Colorado to the Pacific, three hundred and seventy-four miles. — The
line traversed is recommended only in case subsequent explorations should prove that the more
direct routes suggested are less favorable than appearances would indicate. The expense,
however, is estimated with due regard to the magnitude of the work. It is believed, however,
that upon no portion of this route, except the tunnel through Oajon Pass, can the difficulties
exceed what was encountered upon the Baltimore and Ohio railroad ; and for the greater part of
the distance, where wide valleys are followed, labor of graduation and masonry will be very
small. In making the comparison referred to above, we find reported the sum of $58,410 as
the total cost per mile. To this we would add cent, per cent., giving about $117,000 per mile,
or for the section $43,758,000. Thi3 is supposed to include about $5,000,000 for the tunnel of
the pass.

RECAPITULATION OF ESTIMATE.

Section.

Length in miles.

Average cost per

Total amount for gradu-

mile.

ation and equipment

complete.

I

365

$49, 600

$18,104,000

II '.

281

54, 100

15,202,000

Ill

201

106,000

21,306,000

IV

151

90,000

13,590,000

V

198

67, lfil

13,320,265

VI

279

131,000

36,549,000

374

117,000

43,758,000

Total

1,849

89, 903

161,829,265

I am aware that the above estimate far exceeds those made by eminent engineers, such as E.
F. Johnson and Septimus Norris. But it is believed, that, without having been eye-witnesses of
the uninhabited regions through which it is proposed to execute a work of such magnitude, they
have failed to appreciate the extent of the difficulties which such an unprecedented condition of
things would produce.

It is true that, should a general route be agreed upon, and a portion of the cultivable valleys
it would traverse thrown open to actual settlers, two years would produce an astonishing change
in this region. Fields of grain and vegetables would spring up, as if by magic, from one end

32

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

of the line to the other ; and, upon each section, an adequate supply of subsistence would
doubtless be afforded from local productions. Bnt there are other difficulties attending the
absence of facilities for transportation, and of the innumerable conveniences of a numerous
population, which can be remedied only by the completion of the railway. The expense of
the operation would also be modified to conform to the method of its commencement and the
manner in which it may be conducted.

To begin simultaneously from the eastern and western limits, and proceed to a mutual junc-
tion, would enable the road itself, in a great measure, to bear the burden of its own supplies.
The grading, however, in order to hasten the completion of the work, would doubtless be carried
on from New Mexico, and probably at the same time from various other points.

Its successful and speedy completion, however, can be effected whenever the people of this
country feel its importance to the union, dignity and prosperity of the United States, and are
willing — in consideration of the national advantages to be derived — to give efficient national aid.
I have the honor to be, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

A. W. WHIPPLE,
Lieut. Top. Engineers, in charge of Exploration.

Hon. Jefferson Davis,

Secretary of War.

EXTEACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT. 33

* * * * # * * *

[PORTION OF] APPENDIX B.

Table containing the distances, altitudes, * * * * of each camp from Fort Smith to the Pacific

ocean.

Viameter distance from —

Camp.

Altitude

Name of station.

above the sea.

Preceding station.

Fort Smith.

Miles.

Miles.

Feet.

No. 0

Fort Smith, (Camp Wilson)

460.3

1

10. 00

10. 00

564 7

2

5. 00

15.00

558.5

3

8.82

23. 82

336.3

4

4. 94

28.76

432.4

5

8. 60

37. 36

677.9

6

2. 74

40. 14

595.9

7

San Bois Creek

9.83

49. 97

595.9

8

do

7.50

57 47

643.8

9

do

8. 75

66.22

698. 2

10

17. 50

83. 72

650. 4

11

2.75

86.47

688. 9

12

13.50

99. 97

625. 8

13

do

5. 25

105. 25

614.3

14

10. 25

115.50

720. 1

15

10. 00

125. 50

752. 5

16

8. 50

134 00

771.3

17

11.60

144. 60

765. 5

18

13. 00

157. 60

889. 9

19

14. 50

172. 10

1072. 2

20

12. 25

184. 35

1172. 4

21

14. 00

198.35

1211. 2

22

18.00

216. 35

1338. 2

23

10. 50

226. 85

1294. 7

24

6. 00

232. 85

1130. 6

25

11. 95

244. 80

1431. 5

26

16. 00

266. 80

1436.5

27

15. 00

275. 80

1331. 3

28

13.00

288. 80

166S.0

29

19.50

308. 30

1728. 5

30

15.50

323. 80

1832. S

31

11.50

335 30

1750. 7

32

15. 25

350. 55

1950. >>

33

14. 50

365. 05

ISO?. 0

34

20. 00

385. 05

2313. 2

35

12.25

397. 30

2392. 5

36

19.00

416. 30

2302. 7

5

37
38
39
40
41
42
43
14
45

40
47

48
49
60
61
62
63
54
55
5G
57
53
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
60
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
SO

EXTKACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

[PORTION OF] APPENDIX B— Continued.

Name of station.

Viameter distance from —

On Canadian river

do

do

do

Last camp on Canadian river.

Antelope Creek...

Arroyo Bonito

Beautiful View Creek

Arroyo Amarillo —

Llano Estacado

Rocky Dell Creek

Near Halt Creek

Branch of Fossil Creek

Tucumcari Creek

Laguna Colorado

Pajarito Creek

Hurrah Creek

Sheep Springs

Anton Chico

CaBon Blanco -

Lagunas —

San Antonio

Albuquerque .

Atrisco

Isleta

Rio Puerco

Rio Rita -.

Covera. .

Hay Camp

Sierra Madre

Agua Frio

Inscription Rock (El Moro).

Ojo del Pescado

Zuiii

Arch Spring

Jacob's Well

Navajo Spring

Rio de la Xara

Rio Puerco of the West.

Lithodendron Creek

First camp on Colorado Chiquito.

On Colorado Chiquito

do

Preceding station.

Fort Smith.

Miles.

Miles.

15. 50

431. 80

17.50

449. 30

11.75

461.05

14. 50

475. 55

19. 25

494. 80

18.37

513. 17

19. 88

533. 05

20. 75

553. 80

19. 75

573. 55

27.50

606. 05

23. 50

624. 55

22. 25

646. 80

20. 00

666. 80

19. 00

685. 80

16.00

701. 80

13. 75

715. 55

23. 00

738. 55

6. 25

744. 80

22.75

767. 55

16.75

784. 30

17.25

801. 55

22.50

824. 05

18.75

842. 80

0. 88

843. 68

12. 16

855. 84

22. 78

878. 62

18. 30

896. 92

13.77

910. 69

14. 66

925.34

17.71

943. 05

8. 06

951. 11

17.49

968. 60

14.23

982.83

11. 74

994. 57

8. 83

1003. 40

10. 77

1014. 17

19. 69

1033.86

7.04

1040. 89

12. 13

1053. 02

10. 87

1063.89

11.59

1075. 48

11. 99

1087.47

14. 42

1101.89

8. 63

1110 52

EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

[POBTION OF] APPENDIX B — Continued.

35

Viameter distance from —

Altitude
above the sen.

Preceding station.

Fort Smith.

Miles.

Miles.

Feet.

4. 94

1115. 46

4934. 6

1.35

1116.81

5225.3

4.90

1121. 71

4981.9

10.99

1132.70

4836.2

15.88

1148. 58

4775. 3

4. 44

1153. 02

4875. 3

1.51

1154. 53

4928.6

11. 11

1165. 64

5518. 1

14. 61

1180.25

6298. 2

11.81

1192. 06

6859.5

10. 46

1202. 52

7450. 6

8.23

1210. 75

7336. 7

6. 17

1216.92

7216. 9

8.54

1225. 47

6767.7

9.77

1235.23

6246. 0

9.89

1245. 12

5753. 6

13. 26

1258. 38

5189. 2

3. 89

1262. 27

5182.5

13. 52

1275. 79

5056. 6

0.87

1276. 66

4867. 8

7. 45

1284. 11

5241.3

8. 69

1292.79

5548. 6

5.71

1298.50

5107.7

6. 67

1305. 17

5661. 2

5.98

1311. 15

5750. 1

5. 80

1316. 94

5293.4

12.16

1329. 10

4610. 9

0. 30

1329.40

4680. 1

11. 29

1310. 69

4711.0

9. 64

1350. 33

5182.0

7.97

1358 30

3511. C

11. 60

1369. 90

2760.9

12. 83

1382.73

2116.3

9. 21

1391. 94

1845.4

4.35

1396. 29

1722. 6

6.21

1402. 49

1563. 3

4. 08

1406. 56

1501.6

6. 10

1412. 66

1433. 1

6.56

1418. 22

1343. 4

6.44

1124. 66

1218. 2

6.52

1431. 18

948. 0

8.97

1440. 15

851.0

6. 83

1446. 98

881. 0

7.22

1454. 20

671.2

3.90

1458. 10

414. 1

Camp.

Name of station.

No.

81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119
120
121
122
123
124
125

On Colorado Chiquito

do

do

do

do

do

Last camp on Colorado Chiquito.

Cohnino Caves

Near San Francisco Spring .
Leroux's Spring

New Tear's Spring

Lava Creek

Cedar Creek

Partridge Creek

do

do

Picacho Springs

Turkey Creek

Pueblo Creek

do

Canon Creek

do

do

do

White Cliff Creek

Cactus Pass

White Cliff Creek

Big Horn Springs

Mouth of Canon Creek

Bill Williams' Fork

do

do

do

do

do

Mouth of Big Sandy Creek

First camp on Bill Williams' Fork

On Bill Williams' Fork

do

do

do

36 EXTRACTS FROM [PRELIMINARY] REPORT.

[PORTION OF] APPENDIX B— Continued.

Yiarneter distance from —

Name of station.

Altitude.

Camp.

above the sea.

Preceding station.

Fort Smith.

3files.

Miles.

Feet.

No. 126

8. 69

1466.79

325.2

Mouth of Bill Williams' Fork - -

4. 33

1471. 12

127

4. 74

1475. 86

272. 0

128

5.02

1480. 88

224. 7

129

do

9 06

1484. 94

270. 0

130

do

11. 39

1501. 32

370.0

131

do

29.87

1531. 19

250. 2

132

1. 02

1532. 21

326. 1

133

9.46

1541. 66

368.5

134

0.33

1541. 99

415. 7

135

2. 78

1544.77

350.4

136

20. 71

1565.48

2109. 3

137

Pai-ute Creek

9. 06

1574. 55

2745. 8

138

13. 38

1587. 93

4377. 4

139

Rock Spring

6. 66

1594. 59

4938.8

140

17. 65

1613. 23

3959. 9

141

16.41

1628. 64

2220. 1

142

Soda Lake

13. 34

1641. 98

1116. 8

143

On Mojave river -

1?. 31

1654. 29

1239. 3

144

do

12.94

1667. 22

1700. 9

145

do

11. 18

1678.40

1980. 6

116

do

19. 48

1797. 38

2225 7

147

do

22. 37

1720. 25

2555. 4

148

91 A7

1 i 'it. i &

3539. 7

149

South of Cajon Pass

19.43

1764. 15

2623.4

150

Uoco Mongo Creek

19.72

1783. 87

1307. 9

151

24. 16

1808. 03

354.5

152

14. 26

1822. 27

457. 1

153

23. 00

1845. 27

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE PROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

REPORT

EXPLORATIONS FOR A RAILWAY ROUTE,

NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL OF NORTH LATITUDE,

THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN:

LIEUTENANT A. W. WHIPPLE,

CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS

ASSISTED BT

LIEUTENANT J. C. IVES,

CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS.

1853-4.

LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR.

Washington, D. C, June 30, 1855.

Sir : In conformity with your instructions, the accompanying report of explorations for "a
railway route from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean" is herehy submitted to the depart-
ment. As in many respects it differs from my previous communication upon this subject, I beg
leave to make the following brief explanation. Upon my return from field duty, at the end of
May, 1854, Congress, then in session, desired to obtain the principal results of the survey ; and
I was directed to furnish them before its adjournment. The mass of material collected was too
great to be carefully looked over within the time specified, and it became necessary to make up
a trace of the route by a superficial inspection of the notes and field computations. The remarks
accompanying it were sketched in the same hasty manner. As for some months afterward no
further information was called for, the assistants were discharged, and the work partially sus-
pended. At the succeeding session of Congress, the Pacific railroad reports were ordered to be
reprinted ; and it was then suggested as proper to make a revision of the material, provided it
might be done without delaying its publication. The astronomical positions, therefore, were
revised, and the general maps reconstructed. Accurate profiles being of primary importance,
the barometric observations, upon which they depend, were re-examined, and the altitudes of
numerous additional points determined. These have been united with the field topography,
making, for a portion of the route, a series of sketches, upon a scale of 6 0 \ 0lT ; thus delineating
the proposed location for a railway, and giving approximately the natural inclination of the sur-
face upon that line. Profiles have been constructed upon the same horizontal scale, showing
the grades, and, roughly, the cutting and filling required to obtain them. These exhibit, upon
certain sections, fewer difficulties than superficial examinations had led me to expect. The
length of the line, determined by this trace, is less than that measured by the odometer, which
followed many sinuosities and large deflections that, for a railroad, would be unnecessary. A
barometric profile has been constructed through Campbell's Pass of the Sierra Madre, by which
that mountain range may be crossed without a tunnel or deep excavation, with a maximum
grade of fifty feet per mile, the summit level being 6,952 feet above the sea. This avoids the
sharp crest where a tunnel was proposed, upon the direct route to Zuni by the way of the
Camino del Obispo.

The summit of Aztec Paee is found to be only 6,058 feet above the sea. With moderate exca-
vation and embankment it can easily be surmounted.

The connexion with Lieutenant Williamson's survey, from Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to Rio
Mojave, shortens the length of the route to San Francisco, and avoids the Cajon Pass, with the
expensive tunnel which it would require.

The above are some of the considerations which have led to a modification of nearly all of the
approximate results previously submitted.

The material gathered upon the survey has required a diffusive report. It has, therefore,
been divided into distinct parts, in order that the various subjects it embraces — each having its
obvious and appropriate bearing Upon the main purpose of the expedition — may be directly
referred to.

VIII

LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OP WAR.

In conclusion, permit me briefly to refer to the officers and assistants, to whose energy and
scientific ability the government is mainly indebted for whatever there is of value in the informa-
tion afforded by the exploration.

Lieutenant J. C. Ives, of the corps of topographical engineers, who was placed in charge of
a separate party, devoted himself with great assiduity to the duties with which he was intrusted.
His field labors in the magnetic and astronomical departments were unusually arduous, fre-
quently, after a fatiguing march, occupying the greater portion of the night. Upon our return
to Washington, with zeal and ability he aided in various branches of the scientific operations
until selected to assist Captain Humphreys in the supervision of the work in the office of Pacific
railroad explorations and surveys.

The scientific collectors, the civil engineer, and assistants, whose names are mentioned in the
Itinerary, deserve great praise for the faithful and able manner in which their duties were per-
formed.

The officers of the escort to the expedition were 1st Lieutenant John M. Jones, 7th infantry ;
Lieutenant J. C. Tidball, 1st artillery ; and Lieutenant D. S. Stanley, 2d dragoons. Each, in
his appropriate sphere, contributed greatly toward the success of our operations. The quiet
and peaceful manner in which we passed through the various tribes of Indians, usually hostile
toward Americans, is a proof of the sound discretion of those officers, and the good discipline of
the men composing their command.

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

• A. W. WHIPPLE,

1st Lieutenant Corps of Topographical Engineers.

Hon. Jefferson Davis,

Secretary of War.

r-

GENERAL TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PART I.

ITINERARY.

PART II.

REPORT ON THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES AND CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.

PART III.

REPORT UPON THE INDIAN TRIBES :
By Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, Thomas Ewbank, Esq., and Prof. William W. Turner.

PART IV.

REPORT ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE.

1. — General Report upon the Geological Collections, with a Geological Map, Section, &c, by W. P. Blake, Geologist of the

oflBce of the Pacific Railroad Explorations and Surveys.

2. — Resume- and Field Notes, with a Geological Section, and other Illustrations, by Jules Marcou, Geologist and Mining

Engineer to the Expedition.

PART V.

REPORT ON THE BOTANY OF THE EXPEDITION.

1. — General Description of the Botanical Character of the Country, with a Botanical Map and Profile, by John M. Bioelow,

M. D., Surgeon and Botanist to the Expedition.

2. — Description of the Forest Trees, by John M. Bigelow, M. D.

3. — Description of the Cactaceas, with Illustrations, by George Engelmann, M. D., of St. Louis, and John M. Bigelow, M. D

4. — Description of the general Botanical collections, with illustrations, by Prof. John Torrey, M. D., L. L. D., and Prof

Asa Gray, M. D., L. L. D.
5 — Description of the Mosses and Liverworts, with Ulustratisns, by W. S. Sullivant, Esq.

2 H

X CONTENTS.

PAUT VI

REPORT ON THE ZOOLOGY OF THE EXPEDITION.

1. — Field Notes, and Explanations, hy C. B. R. Kennerly, M. D., Physician and Naturalist to the Expedition.

2. — General Description of the Zoological Collections, by Prof. S F. Baird and C. Girard, M. D., Smithsonian Institution.

APPENDICES.

APPENDIX A.

ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS WITH SEXTANT.

APPENDIX P>.

ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS WITH TRANSIT.

APPENDIX C.

COMPARISON OF CHRONOMETERS.

APPENDIX D.

LIST OF CAMPS, WITH DISTANCES, ALTITUDES, ASTRONOMICAL POSITIONS, &c.

APPENDIX E.

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS.

APPENDIX F.

TABLE OF COMPUTATIONS FOR MAGNETIC INTENSITY.

APPENDIX G.

TABLE OF RESULTS FOR MAGNETIC INCLINATION AND INTENSITY.

APPENDIX H.

PSYCHROMETRIC AND CLIMATO LOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

APPENDIX I.

BAROMETRIC AND METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

APPENDIX K.

TABLES OF INSTRUMENTAL ERRORS AND HORARY CORRECTIONS, TO BE APPLIED TO THE BAROMETRIC
OBSERVATIONS, WITH CLIM ATOLOGIC A L REMARKS AND CHART, PREPARED BY MR. LORIN BLODGET.

APPENDIX L.

TABLE OF RESULTS FOR ABNORMAL VARIATIONS OF ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE, AS DETERMINED FROM
BAROMETRIC RECORDS KEPT AT VARIOUS MILITARY POSTS.

APPENDIX M.

TABLE OF BAROMETRIC HEIGHTS.

APPENDIX N.

TABLE OE GRADES.

PART I .

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, UNDER THE COMMAND OF LIEUT. A. W. WHIPPLE,
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853 AND 1854.

ITINERARY.

WASHINGTON, D.
1854.

c.

ERRATA.

Page 31, line 39, for "captains" read captives.
Page 76, line 19, for ■ ' vocabularly' ' read vocabulary
Page 82, line 16, for " improvisatore" read improvisated.

Page 99, line 51, insert a comma after "miles," and erase the comma after "stream
Page 106, line 19, for "to Zufii, to the Gila," read from Zuni to the Gila.
Page 112, line 7, for " encampe" read encamped.
Page 119, line 6, for "Pinal Leiias" read Pinalihos.
Page 133, bottom line, for " D. J. Miles" read D. S. Miles.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

From Fort Smith to Scully ville.

Commencement of the survey. — Thunder-storm. — Eing's plantation. — Scullyville. — Arrival of stores at Fort Smith. — Ex-
plorations in vicinity of the Poteau. — Visit to Fort Coffee. — Choctaw academy. — Account of the Choctaws and their
government. Page 5.

CHAPTER II.

From Scullyville to Delaware settlement.

Arrival of the escort. — A new recruit. — Departure from Scullyville. — Long prairie. — Illness and return of Mr. Jones. —
Sans Bois creek. — Games' creek. — Singular alternations of woodland and prairie. — Chickasaw village. — Coal strata. —
Shawnee village — Account of the inhabitants. — Mexican captives. — Visit to Little River settlement. — Shawnee town. —
Favorable route from Coal creek to Boggy river. — Head- waters of the Boggy. — Delaware mount. — Old Camp Ar-
buckle. Page 10.

• CHAPTER III.
From Delaware settlement to Oak creek.

Difficulty of procuring a guide. — Jesse Chisholm.- — Accounts of the Cherokees, their rites and ceremonies. — Remarks re-
garding the Comanchesand other tribes. — Straying of animals. — Discovery of a comet. — Mexican captives. — A Delaware
carousal. — Return of Mr. Gaines. — Prairie on fire. — Cross Timbers. — Hueco Indians. — Vincente, the interpreter. — Kichai
guide.- — Branches of Walnut creek. — Finely timbered valleys. — Fertility of the soil. — March interrupted by burning
prairies. — A norther. — Deer creek. — Buffalo crossing. — Rock Mary. — Gypsum creek. — Bear creek. — Valloy of False
Washita. — Elm creek. — Comet creek. — Silver creek. — Marcou creek. — Oak creek. Page 19.

CHAPTER IV.

From Oak creek to Rocky Dell creek.

Buffalo creek.- — Alamo spring. — Divide between the False Washita and Canadian. — Entrance to Canadian valley. — Ante-
lope hills. — Grape creek. — Buffalo, and other game. — Interview with Comanches. — Wolf creek. — Natural mounds. —
Wine creek. — Vineyard. — Valley river. — Meeting with Kiowas. — Mexican traders. — Kiowa village. — Captives. — Council
with the Indians.- — Crossing of the Canadian. — Abandoned trading-post. — White Sandy creek. — Shady creek. — Deserted
Comanche encampment. — Red Bank creek. — Beautiful View creek. — Llano Estacado. — Encampment creek.— Rocky Doll
creek. Page 28.

CHAPTER V.
From Rocky Dell creek to Anton Chico.

Cave at Rocky Dell.— Pueblo Indian traders. — Violent storm. — Halt creek. — Antelope. — Staked Plain. — Fossil crock. —
Tucumcari creek. — Plaza Larga.— Laguna Colorada. — Arroyo de Pajarito. — Arroyo Cuerbito. — Digging for prairie dogs.—
Hurrah creek.— Rio de Gallinas.— Sheep spring.— Anton Chico. Page 37.

VI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.
From Anton Chico to Albuquerque.

Pecos valley. — Sudden freshet. — Division of party. — Agua Negra. — La Cuesta. — Canon Blanco. — La Laguna. — Town and
river of Galisteo — Los Cerritos — Cienega. — Pefia Blanca. — San Domingo. — Indian hospitality. — San Felipe. — Bernar-
dino.— Pueblo de Zandia. — Albuquerque. Page 42.

CHAPTER VII.
From Albuquerque to Pueblo de la Laguna.

Detention upon the Rio Grande for supplies. — Plotting of notes. — Information regarding the country west. — Sitgreaves'
route. — Walker's route. — Aubrey's route. — Employment of guide. — Geological reconnoissance to Zandia mountain and to
the gold mines. — Examinations upon the Del Norte for a suitable place for a bridge. — Pueblo of Isleta. — Bosque de los
Pinos. — Military post at Las Lunas. — Arrival of Lieut. Ives and party from El Paso. — Magnetic and astronomical instru
ments. — Remarks upon the mode of using them. — Division of the party. — Continuation of the survey, via Isleta, to Rio
Puerco and the San Jose' valley. — Direct route from Albuquerque to Rita. — Coal in the valley of Rio Puerco. — 111
Alamo. — Ruins of Rita. — Rancho Colorado. — Pueblo de la Laguna. Page 48.

CHAPTER VIII.

From. Pueblo de la Laguna to Zuni.

Covero.— Navajo depredations. — Disturbance at a fandango. — Mount Taylor. — Hay camp. — Lava bed. — Division of party. —
Camino del Obispo. — Forests of Sierra Madre. — Agua Fria. — Acoma Indians. — Summit of Sierra Madre. — Inscription
rock. — Ojo del Pescado. — Ancient ruins. — Coal. — Rio de Zuni. — Sacred spring. — Visit to Zuiii. — Small-pox. — Caciques.-
System of government. — White Indians. — Party from Fort Defiance. — Campbell's Pass. — Tradition of the flood. — Visit
to Old Zuni. — Sacred altar. — Arch spring. Page 61.

CHAPTER IX.
From Zuni to the Little Colorado.

Council of Caciques. — Offers of guides and assistance. — Mexican deserter. — Ancient manuscripts. — Cultivation of corn. —
Departure from Zuni. — Jacob's well. — Estimates of population. — Navajo spring. — Messengers to Moqui. — Carrizo creek.- •
Lithodendron creek. — Petrified forests. — Adaptation of the country for raising sheep. — Colorado Chiquito. — Return of
Zuni guides. — Accounts of Navajo Indians. — Proposed reconnoissance to San Francisco mountain. — Ruins. — Stampede
of the animals. — Arrival of Lieut. Tidball and escort from Fort Defiance. Page 71.

CHAPTER X.
From the Little Colorado to New Year's spring.

Departure of reconnoitring party. — Canon Diablo. — Pine forests. — San Francisco mountain. — Leroux's spring. — San Francis-
co springs. — Cosnino caves. — Return to the train. — Leaving the Little Colorado. — Christmas in the mountains. — Proposed
routes to the Colorado. — Another reconnoissance. — Bill Williams' mountain. — New Year's spring. — Extensive view
toward the west. — Black forests. — Continuation of explorations. — Return to New Year's spring. — Arrival of the train.
Page 78.

CHAPTER XI.

From New Year's sjsring to Pueblo creek.

Lava spring. — Cedar creek. — Partridge creek. — Game.- — Reconnoissance towards Picacho mountain. — Picacho spring. — Val
de China. — Turkey creek. — Pueblo creek. — Aztec mountains. — Aztec Pass. — Return to Pueblo creek. — Ruins of ancient
pueblos and fortresses. — Arrival of train. Page 88.

0

CHAPTER XII.
From Pueblo creek to mouth of Rio Santa Maria.

Bill Williams' Fork. — Gemini mountain. — Reconnoissance westward. — Aquarius mountain. —White Cliff creek. — Indian
breakfast. — Yampais Indians. — Cactus Pass. — Arrival of the train. — Reconnoissance resumed. — Big Sandy. — Big Horn
spring. — Junction of Big Sandy with Bill Williams' Fork.— Cactacepe. — Rio Santa Maria. Page 94.

CONTENTS.

VII

CHAPTEK XIII.

From mouth of Bio Santa Maria to the Chemelmevis valley of the Colorado.

Continuation of the reconnoissance down Bill Williams' Fork. — Coming up of the train. — Cave in a canon. — Ancient draw-
ings and inscriptions. — Colorado river. — Country near the mouth of Bill Williams' Fork. — Difficulty of ascending the
valley. — First meeting with Colorado Indians. — Abandonment of wagons. — Party of ( Jhemehuevis Indians. Page 105.

CHAPTER XIV.
From the Chemehuevis to the Mojave valley, on the Colorado.

Progress up the river. — Mojave band and chief. — Trading for provisions. — An old acquaintance from the Gila. — Mojave
country. — Ceremonial visits from the Indians. — Their dress, ornaments, dwellings, &c. — Crossing the Colorado river. —
Assistance of the Indians. — Council of the Mojaves. — Offer of a guide. Page 112.

CHAPTER XV.

From the Colorado river to the Mormon road.

Leaving the Colorado river. — View from the bounding ridge. — Springs. — Pai-ute creek. — Eock spring. — Division of the
party. — Marl springs. — Desert. — Soda lake — Arrival at Lieut. Ives' camp. — Mojave river. — Eemarks on the Mojave
Indians and the Colorado valley. — Mexican herder missing. — Statement of the guide in regard to the continuance of the
Mojave river to the Colorado. — Search for the lost herder. — Pursuit after the Pai-utes. — Return of the Mojave guides. —
Mormon road. Page 120.

CHAPTER XVI.

From the Mormon road to the Pacific.

Mormon travellers. — Cajon Pass. — Timber. — Express from Jarupa — Disbanding of party — Cocomonga — Cahuillas. — El
Monte. — Mormons at San Bernardino. — Mission of San Gabriel. — Los Angeles. — Sale of property. — San Pedro. Page 129.

ILLUSTRATIONS;

Page.

1. Plate No. 1, view from the left bank of Rio Colorado, near Mojave village, looking W. N. W -Frontispiece.

2. View of Fort Smith 6

3. View of the Canadian river at the month of Longtown creek 13

4. View of Rock Mary 25

5. View on the Canadian river at Camp 38 - 30

6. Valley of La Cuesta, Rio Pecos 43

7. Entrance of Santa F^ river to the valley of Rio Grande, near Peiia Blanca.. 45

8. Pueblo de Zuiii 67

9. Sketch of a petrified tree near Lithodendron creek 74

10. View of the San Francisco mountains from Leroux's spring 80

11. View of Black Forest, Picacho, and mountains north of Aztec Pass -- - 85

12. Sketch of a trap dike at Bivouac 2, January 26 — — 95

13. View from Bivouac 4, January 28 97

14. Sketch of a Cereus Giganteus on Williams' river.- 101

15. Valley of Williams' river, near the beaver-dams - — 102

1 6 . Artillery peak - - 103

17. Caiion of Williams' river - 108

18. Camp scene in the Mojave valley of Rio Colorado - 113

19. Sketch of a Mojave raft.. 117

20. Sketch of a yucca treo upon the slopes of Pai-ute mountain 121

INTRODUCTION.

INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT.

"War Department, Washington, May 14, 1853.

"Under the 10th and 11th sections of the Military Appropriation act, approved March 3,
1853, directing ' such explorations and surveys ' to he made as might he deemed necessary to
' ascertain the most practicahle and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river
to the Pacific ocean,' the "War Department directs such explorations and surveys to he made
as will develop the availahility for this purpose of that portion of our territory which lies near
the parallel of 35° north latitude. The following instructions with reference thereto are issued
for the government of the different hranches of the puhlic service :

" 1. The party for this exploration and survey will he commanded by First Lieutenant A.
W. Whipple, of the topographical engineers, who will he assisted hy brevet Second Lieutenant
J. C. Ives, topographical engineers, and such civil assistants as may be required and the Secre-
tary of War approve.

"2. The Adjutant General will detail the necessary escort, transportation for the provisions
and equipage of which shall be furnished by the Quartermaster General. Second Lieutenant
D. S. Stanley, second dragoons, will act as quartermaster and commissary to this expedition.

"3. Upon the proper requisitions, officers on duty in the quartermaster and commissary
departments at the various military posts upon the route will furnish, as far as possible, all
necessary supplies, which will be paid for at cost prices from the appropriation for the survey.

" 4. Medical stores will be furnished by requisitions upon the Surgeon General.

"5. Ammunition and arms may be obtained from the Ordnance department.

"This party being organized, will collect the necessary instruments and equipments. It
will then repair to the field with the utmost despatch, and proceed with the survey and recon-
naissance in question. The main party will rendezvous at some convenient point on the Mis-
sissippi river, and thence proceed by the most favorable route westward towards Rio del Norte.
From hasty reconnaissances, and from such information as can be obtained from other sources,
it may be determined from what point upon the river Mississippi the proposed railway should
commence, and whether it may be advantageously connected with any railway already projected
by States or companies westward from that river.

" The reconnaissance will continue along the headwaters of the Canadian, cross the Rio
Pecos, turn the mountains east of the Rio del Norte, and enter the valley of that river at some
available point near Albuquerque. From thence westward, extensive explorations must deter-
mine the most practicable pass for a railway through the Sierra Madre, and the mountains west
of the Zuni and Moquis countries, to the Colorado. In these explorations Fort Defiance can be
made a depot for supplies, and may furnish subsistence and transportation thence for the
remainder of the route. From Walker's Pass it would be advisable to pursue the most direcl
and practicable line to the Pacific ocean, which will probably lead to San Pedro, the port of
Los Angelos, or San Diego.

" Lieutenant Whipple will immediately detail an officer, with a small party, to proceed
1 h

S

2

INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE WAR DEPARTMENT.

directly to Albuquerque, in New Mexico, in order to make that place a cardinal astronomical
point in the survey, and to hasten preparations for the necessary explorations in the mount-
ainous regions of New Mexico before the approach of winter.

" Over such portions of the route as evidently afford no material obstacle to the construction
of a railway, a rapid reconnaissance will suffice. This work, however, must be checked by
numerous geographical points determined by astronomical observations.

" Through mountain passes greater accuracy will be necessary, in order to determine
(roughly) the grades and curves to be adopted, and the probable expense of their construction.
Great attention will be given to those collateral branches of science which more or less directly
affect the solution of the question of location for the proposed railway : the nattire of the rocks
and soils ; the means of obtaining water upon arid plains — whether by tanks or artesian wells ;
the products of the country, animal, mineral and vegetable ; its population and resources ; its
supply of timber and other materials for the construction of a railway ; the location, character,
habits, tradition, and language of the Indian tribes.

" Meteorological and magnetic observations will be attended to ; the hygrometrical and elec-
trical states of the atmosphere will be noticed ; and all practicable measures will be adopted in
order to develop the character of the country through which the party is to pass.

" On or before the first Monday of February next Lieutenant Whipple will report the result
of his investigations.

" After the completion of the field-work, the party will be disbanded in California ; the sol-
diers no longer required will be placed at the disposal of the commanding officer of that depart-
ment ; and Lieutenant Whipple, with such officers and assistants as he may deem necessary,
will proceed to prepare for Congress a detailed report of the operations of the survey.

1 ' The sum of forty thousand dollars will be set apart to defray the expenses of the survey
intrusted to Lieutenant Whipple.

" JEFFERSON DAVIS,

" Secretary of War."

"War Depaktment, Washington, July 25, 1854.

"Sir: You will, with as little delay as possible, furnish this department with a report of
your operations, embracing —

"1st. A map exhibiting the actual line or lines surveyed by yourself and your assistants, on
your late explorations to ascertain the most practicable route for a railway to the Pacific ; and
also a table showing the astronomical points determined for checking the lineal surveys,, and
the data upon which these determinations are founded.

" 2d. A profile of the route traversed, marking each station where a height was ascertained,
and a table of the results of the observations made with the barometer or other instruments, by
which the relative heights of different points were determined.

"3d. A condensed statement of the character of the soil, the timber, the supply of water, and,
as far as ascertained, the depth of snow in winter, for every section of the line travei-sed.

" For the immediate use of the government, the relative longitude and the relative heights
of points along any given line are required. A discussion of the absolute longitude and heights,
also the preparation of the natural history, geology, &c, may be deferred, without injury to
the object now in view.

"The map and profile should indicate new routes or lines to be surveyed, and those hereto-
fore surveyed, by which obstacles on the line followed may be avoided.

"Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

"JEFFERSON DAVIS,

' ' Secretary of War.

"Lieut. A. W. Whipple,

" Topographical Corps, Washington."

LIST OP PARTY. — COLLECTION OF MATERIAL, &C.

3

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SURVEY.

Among the first of the preliminary duties required by the preceding instructions, were the
organization of a party, and the collection of the necessary surveying instruments. The former
was soon effected. So great was the number of applicants to the War Department for this work,
that the services of many who had been most highly recommended were necessarily declined.

The following is a list of those employed :

Name.

Residence.

Duties.

1. J. M. Bigelow, M. D

3. C. B. R. Kennedy, M. D

4. A. H. Campbell

7. William White, jr

9. N. H. Hutton

10. John P. Sherburne

11. Thomas H. Parke

Ohio

Massachusetts

Maryland

District of Columbia

New Hampshire

Pennsylvania

District of Columbia

Surgeon and botanist.
Geologist and mining engineer.
Physician and naturalist.
Principal assistant railroad engineer.
Topographer and artist.
Assistant astronomer.

Assistant meteorological observer and surveyor.
Assistant astronomer and secretary.
Assistant engineer.

Assistant meteorological observer and surveyor.
Assistant astronomer and computer.
Assistant surveyor.

A portion of the instruments required for our operations it was found a matter of great diffi-
culty to obtain, in consequence of the recent outfit of parties for scientific explorations. Com-
modore Perry had just gone upon his mission to Japan ; Captain Ringgold was completing his
preparations to explore in the North Pacific ocean ; Dr. Kane was in readiness to recommence
his search for the lost ship of Sir John Franklin ; and Governor Stevens, in charge of a party
to examine the northern route for a Pacific railroad, had secured the few instruments of the
kind referred to which the others had left. Every portable transit, magnetometer, and barom-
eter, that could have been purchased in the shops, or borrowed from scientific societies and
observatories, had been already appropriated for one or the other of these expeditions. The ordi-
nary surveying and astronomical instruments were, as usual, furnished by the Topographical
Bureau ; but barometers we were obliged to have made for the occasion, and it was necessary to
wait until they could be completed.

The needful preparations for transportation and subsistence were meanwhile progressing.
In these operations we were greatly indebted to the Quartermaster General's department, for
the aid and facilities it afforded. Major Crossman, at Philadelphia, gave the matter his per-
sonal attention, and in less than two weeks our wagons, tents, &c, were constructed and
delivered to the railroad company for transportation to Cincinnati. In order that no time should
be lost, Lieut. Ives immediately set out for New Mexico, by the way of San Antonio, Texas, and
El Paso. At the latter place were a few astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological instru-
ments, which having been deposited there by the Mexican Boundary Commission, were placed at
our disposal by the honorable Secretary of the Interior. Having obtained these, Lieut. Ives was
instructed to repair to Albuquerque, and there await the arrival of the main party ; making,
meanwhile, astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological observations, obtaining information of
the country beyond, and completing such preparations as should facilitate our progress west-
ward from that place.

On the 29th of May, the last division of the party left Washington for the Mississippi river
and the frontier ; a portion going by the way of New York city, in order to obtain the instru-
ments that were there being completed. We then hastily proceeded to Cincinnati, where Liru-

* Mr. Jones was taken ill soon after leaving Fort Smith, and was obliged to leave the party to return home. Mr. Aluu r ( '.
Gaines, of Oregon, was then appointed to the vacancy, but served only a short time, when, for the same cause, ho was com-
pelled to resign.

4

ARRIVAL AT FORT SMITH.

tenant Stanley, the acting commissary, was purchasing stores for the subsistence of the party.
To these were added a few presents for the Indians, from a small fund granted by the Indian
bureau for this purpose.

Unfortunately the Quartermaster's supplies, sent by railroad from Philadelphia, had not yet
arrived; but as an agent had accompanied the train to attend to them, and as the rapid falling
of the river created fears lest navigation might be suspended, it was not deemed prudent to
delay our own departure on that account. We therefore immediately took passage for Memphis.
There we learned that the State of Arkansas had already given a charter for branch railroads
from Little Kock, which would connect Memphis with Fort Smith, and that no doubt was
entertained of the feasibility of constructing them. Special examinations within the State
seemed unnecessary, and we therefore hastened by the way of Napoleon, Little Kock, and Van
Buren, to Fort Smith ; acquiring such information, and taking such notes, by the way, as cir-
cumstances would admit.

We arrived at Fort Smith on the 2d of July. Capt. Montgomery, the army quartermaster
at that place, had, with great promptness and energy, made the desired preparations for our
departure. The escort ordered from Fort Gibson had also arrived, under the command of First
Lieut. Jno. M. Jones, 7th infantry. Nothing but the Quartermaster's stores from Philadelphia
were wanting to enable us to proceed with the reconnaissance. While awaiting these, astro-
nomical and meteorological observations were made, as a basis for future operations ; and the
geologist, the botanist, and the zoologist employed themselves in examining the surrounding
country to obtain collections in their various departments. A special expedition was made to
the summit of Sugar-loaf mountain, where meteorological observations were taken, and many
interesting additions made to the scientific collections.

On the 11th of July, I learned by letter from Mr. White, who was in charge of the camp
equipage from Philadelphia, that the boat on which the property was being transported from
Cincinnati had run aground upon a sand-bar in the Ohio river. To remedy, as far as possible,
the misfortune of this delay, we borrowed tents and wagons from Capt. Montgomery, proposing
to proceed with the survey so slowly as to afford the party an opportunity to become acquainted
with the duties which would be required of them, and enable our own train to overtake us when
it should arrive.

PART L

ITINERARY.

CHAPTER I.

From Fort Smith to Scullyville.

Commencement of the survey. — Thunder-storm. — Ring's plantation. — Scullyville. — Arrival of stores at Fort Smith. — Explorations
in vicinity of the Poteau. — Visit to Fort Coffee. — Choctaw Academy. — Account of the Choctaws and their government.

July 14, 1853. — From Camp Wilson, a few hundred yards south of the fort, the survey was
commenced, with chain, compass, and level. The astronomical and harometric stations were
connected with the town and with the flag-staff at the barracks. The chainmen and rodmen
being ignorant of their duties, little more than teaching them could this day be accomplished.
The parties at present are divided as follows : Mr. Albert Campbell, surveyor ; Mr. Hutton,
leveller; Mr. Sherburne, barometric observer; Messrs. Jones and Gaines, signal bearers; Messrs.
Garner and Parke, astronomical assistants. Our astronomical instruments consist of two sex-
tants of 8-inch radius, divided to 10", by Gambey, of Paris; artificial horizons of Mercury; and
three box chronometers, two of them old and much worn. With these, observations were made
which gave for the position of Camp Wilson latitude 35° 22' 55" north, longitude 94° 29' west
of Greenwich.

July 15 — Gamp 1. — We struck camp, and moved south-southwest 10 miles, to King's planta-
tion. The survey was continued with railroad transit, chain, and spirit-level. Descending the
bluff bank, we crossed the Poteau river at the ferry, and proceeded through the dense forest
that covers the bottom lands of the delta between the Poteau and Arkansas rivers. Upon over-
taking the surveying party, progress was found to be so slow, on account of the thick under-
growth, that it became necessary to replace the level by a barometer. Being still obliged,
however, to digress from the road, the hope of bringing up the survey to camp before dark van-
ished, and at the approach of sunset we entered an ambulance to follow the train. We had
not driven far when the tongue broke, compelling us to leave the wagon and proceed on foot.
To increase our troubles a storm came up, with thunder, lightning, and a flood of rain. Mr.
Albert Campbell and Mr. Jones were my companions, the latter not yet recovered from a severe
attack of fever. As the last glimmering of twilight faded away we reached an Indian farm-
house where camp was to have been pitched, and found that the train had been conducted by
the wagon-master to King's house, two and a half miles beyond. Resuming our march, the
darkness, except when relieved by vivid forks of lightning, was so intense beneath the dense
foliage of trees that twined their arched branches overhead, that we were obliged at every turn

Note, — The special descriptions of the topographical features of the country with regard to the construction of a railroad
have heen omitted from the itinerary and embodied in Part II of the Report. The itinerary is intended to give only a geaen.l
sketch of the field operation*.

6

RING'S PLANTATION. — SCULLYVILLE.

to wait for the next flash to guide us. Through mud and pools of water we actually waded up
to our thighs. Approaching the plantation, the road emerged from the low lands, and we
ascended a gravelly ridge. On reaching camp, it presented the appearance of a hivouac, no
tents heing pitched. Some of the party had taken shelter from the pitiless storm within the
comfortable mansion of the proprietor. Here were awaiting ourselves also a warm supper, dry
clothing, and beds, which our unexpected walk prepared us to enjoy.

July 16 — Camp 1, Ring's plantation. — The surveying party returned to the point where
work was yesterday suspended, and continued their operations ; but the water and mud were
so deep that little progress could be made. The soil of the low lands is exceedingly rich and
fertile, producing nature's spontaneous growth in tropical profusion. It is usually moist, being
occasionally overflowed by freshets of the Arkansas. The numerous cultivated patches upon
the roadside give promise of abundant crops. The higher country, commencing at Ring's plan-
tation, is undulating, and beautifully variegated with woodland and prairie.

The western boundary of the State of Arkansas is 100 feet east of Fort Smith, between the
barracks and the city which bears the same name. Leaving the latter we enter upon the coun-
try ceded to the Choctaw nation, where no white man can in his own right acquire a land-title
or residence without permission of the Indians and their agents. Ring married a Choctaw
woman, and in her behalf possesses a valuable estate. His house is built in Texas style, with
a wide piazza in front and rear, united by a broad, open passage-way through the centre of the
building. Doors upon the right and left lead to inner rooms. Within the yard is a well 40
or 50 feet deep, with excellent water, resting upon the coal measures. For his cattle and sheep,
which he raises in considerable numbers, are other wells or springs. Some of his cattle we pur-
chased for beef, at $10 per head. Good sheep cost $2.50 each. It is probable that the prices
we were compelled to pay for necessary supplies were considerably above their ordinary market
value.

The spring wagon was sent back to Fort Smith to be repaired. This evening a courier
arrived with the mail. A letter from Mr. White informs us that he has transferred our stores
from the steamboat aground in the Ohio to another of lighter draught. There is, therefore, hope
of bis arrival by the next mail-boat at Fort Smith.

July 17 — Gamp 1, Ring's plantation. — This day being Sunday, we have remained quietly in
camp.

July 18 — Camp 1, Ring's plantation. — The mud and pools of water, produced by Friday's
storm, having dried sufficiently to allow of it, the survey to-day has been brought up to camp.
Geological and natural history examinations have proved quite interesting in this locality.

July 19 — Camp 2, Scullyville. — The survey passed across a ravine and over a hill, well wooded
with excellent oaks, to an elevated plain called Ring's prairie. This was the first of those
anomalies of nature that we had seen. It was probably a mile and a half wide, and several
miles in length — appearing as if it had been cleared amid the surrounding forests by the hand
of man. It was covered with rank grass, upon which herds of cattle were grazing. Over the
smooth slope towards the northwest stretched the road leading to Fort Coffee. Our own route
lay westwardly ; and, passing over gentle hills and through wooded valleys, six miles from
Ring's plantation we reached Scullyville, the seat of the Choctaw agency. The village consists
of about thirty houses, most of which are stores, where the Indian may supply himself with
articles of use or ornament. A pretty brook flows through the centre of the place, bearing the
same name as the town itself, Scullyville, derived from the Choctaw " Iskuli-fehna," meaning
money. As they are accustomed to visit the agency to obtain their annuities, the name was
naturally suggested. Returning to camp after a walk to the agency, we found our friend Dr.
Bomford, from Fort Smith. He has an extensive practice among the Choctaws, who, attracted
by his kindness of manner, seem desirous of substituting science for the rude ceremonies of
their medicine men. An express rider had also arrived from Captain Montgomery, with the

POTEAU RIVER. — FORT COFFEE.

7

mail, and a letter from Mr. White, informing us of his safe arrival at the fort with the wagons
and camp equipage.

July 20 — Camp 2, Scullyville. — The arrival of the stores at Fort Smith rendered it necessary
for me to return there. Having passed Ring's farm, I took the right-hand road, for the purpose
of seeing a different route, and of crossing the Poteau at the ford. After entering the low lands
several roads branched off, and it became doubtful which should be followed. A trial of several
proved them equally muddy and miry. At length I saw a sign-board at a fork, and eagerly
sought the information which it might afford. The following is a true copy of the inscription
upon it: "McReans Feary at Bills Ford theare will Bee no Feary at the Fill place unteel Fall."
There being no indication as to which road might lead to McBean's ferry, and both appearing
to be travelled, I took the left at a venture, and, after driving in an easterly direction half a
mile, reached the Poteau. The road skirted the left bank, through forests of excellent timber,
for a couple of miles, to the ferry. Here the stream was narrow, the banks on either side being
from twenty to fifty feet in height. Beyond the Poteau the ground became more elevated,
and at a distance of about a mile to the east was the so-called " Long prairie." Passing this,
and traversing a hilly country for a few miles, I at length arrived at Fort Smith, and found
Mr. White, with the stores safely landed.

July 22 — Camp 2, Scullyville. — Having completed the arrangements with the quartermaster,
Mr. White and myself took leave of our friends at Fort Smith, and returned to this place. We
crossed the Poteau at a different point from before, where carboniferous shales crop out, and
the stream runs upon a bed of solid rock. A more excellent site for a bridge could not be
desired. For a railway, it would be better to follow the eastern bank of the stream to this
point; cross, and ascend the left bank of a westerly branch which is said to lead near to Scully-
ville. Thus might be avoided most of the low lands, subject to periodical overflow, and the
hills near the village, which would cause heavy work. Over all the different routes traversed
are seen the same superb forests, yielding timber of the finest quality.

July 25 — Camp 2, Scullyville. — While waiting for the escort and the stores brought by Mr.
White, the various branches of the survey have not been neglected. Mr. Campbell has made
explorations in the vicinity of the Poteau, to determine whether it may be possible to avoid the
hills by which this place is surrounded. He finds the country much more favorable in that
direction, and, connected with it, a valley extending far towards the west. The Indians and
traders tell us that this wide valley sweeps uninterruptedly west-southwest to the Sans Bois river.
If so, the cost of grading for a railway would be almost inappreciable for perhaps fifty miles.

A series of hourly barometric and meteorological observations has been made, similar to those
taken at Cincinnati, Napoleon, Little Rock, and Fort Smith, to ascertain the conditions of the
instruments, and determine base stations for the survey. There have been made, also, astro-
nomical observations to determine the geographic position of the camp.

A party has visited Fort Coffee, situated on the south side of the Arkansas river, and distant
from here about six miles. It is no longer a military post, but an academy for Choctaw Indian
boys. It is at present under the direction of Methodist missionaries, and in a prosperous con-
dition. The system of education there pursued is highly practical, agriculture being one of the
branches taught.

Captain Cooper, the Indian agent, breakfasted with us, and gave many interesting facts
regarding the people whose interest he has in charge. The number of Choctaws is from fifteen
to twenty thousand. They seem to be an honest race, and are rapidly acquiring the habits of
civilization. Their welfare greatly depends upon the character of the person selected by the
government as their agent. In this respect they have been favored. Their former agent, Mr.
Wilson, was, as they say, like a father to them; devoting all his energies to improve their
condition, he won their admiration and respect, and it was with extreme reluctance thai they
parted with him. Captain Cooper has been with them but a few weeks, but they fully appre-

8

CHOCTAW INDIANS. — MC'kiNNEY's FARM.

ciate his gentlemanly deportment and kind manner, and anticipate a rapid march in improve-
ment during his administration of their affairs.

At Napoleon, we first met Indians calling themselves Choctaws. They said, as well as we
could understand, that they had heen to Little Rock to draw their annuities, and were on their
return to their homes in Mississippi. If this were true, it would appear that some imposition
had heen practised upon the government. They had certainly obtained money somewhere,
which was fast finding its way to the whiskey shops. They were a merry set, decked out in
ornaments such as the half-civilized admire ; the most popular being a tall heaver hat, with
wide silver hand. Several were in an advanced stage of intoxication. The effect was, not to
make them quarrelsome, hut to excite mirth and good humor. The next morning one pleasant
looking fellow complained that while he had heen asleep in the street, his pockets had heen
picked, and his money stolen. But he added that it served him right; " Indian a fool to get
drunk."

At Fort Smith the Indian trade is of considerable importance. Whiskey unfortunately forms
a large item, and has the effect of limiting the prosperity of the Choctaws, and of the city, which
to some extent depends upon them. As the sale of intoxicating drink is prohibited within the
Indian country, numerous grog shops line the western frontier of Arkansas. It would be a
blessing to the Choctaws if this trade could be prohibited.

Among these Indians are well-educated and well-behaved men. Mr. McKinney, whom we
first met at Fort Smith on his return from Washington, is of this class. He was educated at
an academy in Kentucky, and now resides at Scullyville. Yesterday, after having taken dinner
in camp, he asked us to visit him at his house during the evening. Mr. Marcou, Mr. Campbell,
and myself accepted the invitation. A pleasant walk of a mile, along a road leading through
a dark forest of oaks, and occasionally opening upon a beautiful field, or Indian farm, brought
us to our friend's residence. The out-buildings had to be passed before a view of the house
could be obtained. It was surrounded by a fence, enclosing a garden, corn-field and orchard.
It was built of one story, in the usual style, with a wide open court or passage through the
middle. As we climbed the fence, both dogs and master greeted us. Entering the house, we
found the floor carpeted; and the curtains, bed, chairs, and tables showed a respectable degree
of civilization. Our host introduced us to his wife and children, all of whom were well dressed ;
and, though possessing dark skins and Indian features, by no means ill-looking. They asked
us to be seated, offered us fruit, and received us with great civility. The eldest son, a handsome
boy of ten or twelve, attracted our attention by his pleasing manners. He told us that he
attended the Choctaw high-school, which is supported at the agency by private subscription.
His studies are algebra, geography, history, and the usual attendant branches. The younger
brothers showed themselves quite proficient in the mysteries of the spelling-book. Mr. McKinney
gave us much interesting information respecting his tribe. He says it is but a few years since
the people have begun to be satisfied with their country. It has been supposed that water
would be difficult to obtain, and they are gratified to learn, from our geologist, that wells fifty
feet in depth will generally afford a supply throughout this region. They are just com-
mencing to appreciate the wealth of the soil which they possess. When first transplanted here,
chills and fevers attacked them severely. Lately, either from being acclimated, or better pro-
vided with houses, and less exposed to the malaria of the low lands, sickness has not been so
prevalent. The Choctaw nation is divided into four districts, each with an independent chief.
The country ceded to them extends from the western border of Arkansas, south of the Canadian
river, to the boundaries of the State of Texas. For the privilege of residing upon a portion of
this territory, the Cherokees have paid a handsome sum. This the Choctaws have invested in
stocks; the interest, $15,000 per annum, being appropriated to the support of free schools and
academies. The one located at Fort Coffee has been already referred to. At Scullyville is a
school-house, situated at the edge of a grove whose wide-spreading oaks shade a charming play-
ground. Here congregate boys and girls of various ages, reminding one of a country school in

A CHOCTAW ASSEMBLY.

9

the States. On Sundays church services are performed there by the Eev. Cyrus Byington,, who
is listened to by a large and attentive congregation. Neither blood-thirstiness, nor cruelty of
any kind, is characteristic of this tribe. There is no new country upon the frontier where theft
and robbery are less frequent — where human life is more sacred. Persons ride alone and un-
armed without fear of molestation, from one end of the Choctaw nation to the otber.

On our return to camp, we learned from Captain Cooper that the great chief would deliver a
speech to his tribe that evening, and that we were invited to be present. At an early hour we
joined a party ; and, crossing the brook, ascended to the store in front of which the crowd was
gathering. It was amusing to see the fantastic dresses which seemed to designate the various
grades in the process of civilization. There were some with naked limbs, who might have been
taken for wild savages of the prairie. A portion wore loose shirts, with ornaments of beads, feath-
ers, and rings. Others were gaily attired in calico wrappers, confined by rich wampum belts of
their own manufacture. There were wrought hunting-shirts, beaded moccasins, and high-crowned
hats with silver bands. A few had adopted the American costume, and seemed perfectly at
ease in black coat, pants, vest, polished boots, and beaver hat. They might have walked unno-
ticed through any of our streets. G-ood feeling was exhibited between these various classes ;
there was no envy displayed on one side, no apparent consciousness of superiority on the other.
All mingled freely, conversing generally in their native language, though some are actually
forgetting it. In the schools, English is taught to the exclusion of Choctaw, and public opin-
ion seems in favor of acquiring our language with our habits.

It became dark, and a lantern was suspended from the piazza in front of the store where the
people were slowly and quietly collecting. An animated conversation was started, regarding
the route most advantageous for the survey to follow. They seemed deeply interested in our
operations, and eagerly desirous to have the railroad built through their territory.

At length the assembly was called to attention, and the chief, with great dignity, took his
place upon the porch. He commenced his address in a musical voice, and well-modulated tones.
Persuasive in manner, without apparent effort, he held the crowd in silent attention. But we,
unfortunately, not understanding Choctaw, soon grew weary, and returned to camp.

2 h

*

CHAPTER II.

From Scullyville to Delaware Settlement.

Arrival of the escort. — A new recruit. — Departure from Scullyville,— Long prairie. — Illness and return of Mr. Jones. — Sans Bois
creek. — Gaines' creek. — Singular alternations of woodland and prairie.- — Chickasaw village. — Coal strata.- — Shawnee village. —
Account of the inhabitants. — Mexican captives. — Visit to Little River settlement. — Shawneetown. — Favorable route from Coal
creek to Boggy river. — Headwaters of the Boggy. — Delaware mount. — Old Camp Arbuckle.

July 26 — Camp 3. — Lieutenant Jones having arrived with the escort, and the necessary ar-
rangements being complete, camp was struck early this morning with the determination of pro-
gressing with the survey. To pack the wagons, for the first time, with all the appurtenances
necessary for so long a trip, was a labor of no little difficulty. Few of the party had the expe-
rience by which alone the knowledge of such matters can be acquired. While employed upon
this work, there drove up, in a wagon drawn by two horses, an odd-looking individual, who
claimed protection. He said that he had travelled across the country from St. Louis, intending
to proceed to Texas, where his son was residing. In his wagon were dry goods, and he had in
his pocket several hundred dollars. He stated that he had been followed for along distance by
some white men, whose behavior was so suspicious that he feared for his life.

As our wagons were packed to the bows, and many indispensable articles still lying upon the
ground, we offered to purchase his wagon and horses, and employ him as driver to California.
He gladly accepted the proposition. His goods were deposited in a shop for safe-keeping, the
wagon was loaded, and the driver, who had been, in his day, Methodist preacher, merchant, and
pedler, entered upon his new career with great zeal.

When about to take leave of Capt. Cooper, the herdsmen informed us that an Indian woman
claimed our best cow, and was standing guard, with a stick, before the gate of the enclosure
within which the animal was secured. Mr. Ring, from whom the purchase was made, denied
the woman's right, and desired that the cow should be driven away; but the herdsman disliked
to use force without orders; and, besides, they were surrounded by a great number of Choctaws,
who might have taken the woman's part. On riding to the spot, all parties were found in a
state of angry excitement, but they were told to let the matter rest till it could be submitted to
the Indian agent. He at once decided in favor of the woman, directing Ring to refund the
purchase money, and leave the cow to her till a fuller investigation should be made. The de-
cision was annoying to Ring, who felt himself placed in a false light, or a bad one, by the ter-
mination of the affair. It was, however, pleasing to see that the first desire of the agent was
to protect the rights of the Indians. Taking leave of Capt. Cooper, we followed the train;
reading some Cherokee and Choctaw newspapers that had been handed us. One side of each,
however, was in English, enabling us to perceive that they contained some clever articles.

The road traversed a country of well-wooded hills, with gentle slopes, and fine grassy prai-
ries intervening. Farm-houses, surrounded by corn-fields and gardens, were thinly scattered
upon the route. Having travelled ten miles, we encamped upon the edge of a woodland, by a
small stream, and near a meadow of luxuriant grass. The surveying party had been directed
to proceed southwardly from Scullyville, to a branch of the Poteau previously surveyed; and
thence to enter and follow the Long prairie westwardly to the Sans Bois. But, from some mis-
understanding, a branch of the Poteau has been ascended to the midst of wooded hills, that
form the dividing ridge. The work has therefore been tedious, and is not yet brought to camp.

LONG PRAIRIE — RETURN OF MR. JONES.

11

The hills and plains abound in excellent timber, principally of oak. Small streams, or pools
of water, are found in numerous ravines, and the meadows are covered with grass.

July 27 — Gamp 4. — The train moved on five miles, and encamped, to await the surveying
party, which had returned to bring up the work from the point where it was left yesterday.
The face of the country is unchanged, consisting of hills and valleys covered with patches of
fine woodland and beautiful lawns. The forests were difficult to penetrate, and the operations
of the survey are, therefore, still many miles in rear.

July 28 — Gamp 4. — Leaving camp stationary for the day, a party returned to the point where
the survey had been suspended yesterday. We found it in a ravine between a pile of hills upon
one side, and a sharp ridge upon the other. Crossing the latter, we entered the famous prairie
that the Indians had so often described to us. It is several miles wide, and extends eastward,
without interruption, to the Poteau, which receives the drainage of its waters. Pursuing it for
about five miles westward, it terminated in a forest, though the same valley still continued.
Here, however, it was confined between the Sans Bois range of mountains and the hills of
"Piney Grove," and thereby contracted to two or three miles in width. There was no way of
avoiding this dense woodland, and it was with great difficulty that we succeeded in carrying on
our operations. In the midst of the valley flowed a stream, near which were many Indian
farm-houses, surrounded, as usual, by patches of corn and gardens. The residents could not
speak English, and hence we obtained little information from them. They were kind and civil,
however, willing to share with us their scanty stores of food. Having arrived at the house of
one John, from whom we learned that the forest extended some ten miles farther before opening
to a prairie, we suspended work, and returned to camp, which has remained unmoved during
the clay. This enables us to obtain observations for latitude and time, at the same place, on
two successive nights, affording results for correcting the rates of our chronometers.

July 29 — Gamp 5. — Mr. Campbell, from fatigue and exposure, is sick to-day. Unable to
ride his mule, he was compelled to take a seat in the ambulance, as the train moved from camp.
The surveying party returned to John's house, and resumed operations. The forest was dense,
and thickets covered the numerous rivulets so closely that it was difficult to make one's way
through them. Having, with difficulty, accomplished five miles of survey through the valley,
at a late hour we took an Indian trail leading northerly, in search of the road and camp. The
path led up a steep hill called Piney Grove, about 500 feet in height, from which we had a fine
view — the Sugar Loaf and Cheviot hills in the distance ; the Sans Bois mountains nearer ; and
below, the forest valley, through which passes the line of survey. At the northern base of this
hill is a wide lawn, and beyond sweeps a meadow, through which flows a tributary of the Sans
Bois. Its sources are springs that gush from the hill-side, where a farm-house is situated.
Camp we found about half a mile distant, near other springs of good water. The spot chosen
was in the midst of a noble grove, delightfully cool, though not a favorable place for astronom-
ical observations. But the night being cloudy, they were not attempted.

Mr. Walter Jones, jr., was taken quite ill soon after his arrival at Fort Smith. He recov-
ered sufficiently to enable him to undertake the journey, but finds his strength unequal to the
task. To-day he is again quite sick, and, completely disheartened, proposes to return home.
Upon consultation with Dr. Bigelow, the surgeon, he has concluded to stop at Johnson's
house till he can be carried back by wagon to Port Smith. He will take passage home as soon
as his health is sufficiently restored.

July 30 — Camp 6. — Leaving Mr. Jones in charge of a servant, and of Choctaw women, who
seemed disposed to afford him every necessary care and attention, we moved camp, and con-
tinued the survey. After progressing a few miles from the point of suspension yesterday, the
forest became somewhat broken — there being here and there a spot devoid of trees. The scenery
was beautiful — just wild enough to realize our ideas of an English park. At length the woods
receded upon either hand, and an extensive prairie opened, leading the survey to Camp 6,
which was pitched at a distance of six miles beyond Johnson's house. The survey fchua far

12

S A.NS BOIS CREEK — CHOCTAW SETTLEMENTS.

shows that there is no great difficulty in selecting ground for a railway where the expense for
grading will he very slight. Building materials, timber, and stone are found in ahundance,
and nearly upon the spot where required. But the labor of making an instrumental survey, so
as to follow the exact line which should he selected, retards the progress of the work so much
that we have concluded to adopt a more rapid system. Hence, to-morrow, we shall allow the
survey to follow the general route of the wagons as a base of operations; and, whenever the
ground becomes unfavorable, make explorations to the right or left, till the route by which the
obstacles may be avoided can be reconnoitred and sketched.

July 31 — Camp 7. — The survey was to-day carried on as proposed, following near the wagon
road. Our route differs from Marcy's trail, which passes over high ridges to the left. Better
ground evidently exists in the direction of the great valley of woodland and prairie, which is
said to extend uninterruptedly from our last camp, by a more southern course, to the banks of
the Sans Bois. But as the route we followed presented no great difficulty, it did not appear
worth while to interrupt the progress of the survey to make a detailed examination. At a short
distance from camp were a few Indian farm-houses and a blacksmith's shop. Finding the
smith, whose name was Fraser, to be an intelligent man, and able to speak English, we em-
ployed him to accompany us. He gave much useful information about the country beyond the
line of our explorations; detailing the courses of streams and chains of hills and mountains. He
says that in his shop he burns native coal, which crops out in several places in the vicinity.

Our camp is in the midst of a tall forest, which lines the banks of the river Sans Bois. This
title appears to be a misnomer, for the neighborhood affords most excellent timber. The
stream, now shallow and fordable, flows between high rocky banks, bearing marks of water
some twenty feet above the present level. But the cliffs afford good abutments, and stone of
excellent quality for building material.

August 1 — Camp 8. — With great labor we crossed the Sans Bois, the banks of which were
exceedingly steep and slippery from recent rains. Keeping upon the slopes of the hills, in order
to cut off a bend of the river, we crossed Cooper's creek, passed a small Indian village, and,
following the crest of a low ridge for a mile farther, encamped by a large field of maize belonging
to an Indian farm near by. No difficulty was presented to the survey. Mr. Marcou, the geolo-
gist, whose health has for sometime been delicate, is quite ill, and thinks seriously of returning.
Our camp, eight miles from the last, is by the side of a densely wooded ravine, through which
flows a brook to the Sans Bois. The adjacent prairie has been closely cropped by herds belong-
ing to the farms; and, for the first time, grass is not abundant.

August 2 — Camp 9. — Our route took us over eight miles of pleasant, well-watered, and fertile
country. Choctaw settlements were frequently passed, indicating industry and thrift. Among
them were several trading houses and stores, kept by Choctaws who speak no English. As we
passed along, they stood by the roadside exhibiting various articles for traffic.

Near the termination of the day's march the road ascended a rocky hill, very steep, and
several hundred feet in height. Keeping near the stream which flows around the southern base,
the ascent could be avoided with no other inconvenience than that of passing through a thick
chapparal.* That the road should have been chosen over the summit, instead of around the
base, the distance being about the same, appears surprising. The reason probably is — and the
same seems to have influenced the selection of most of the route from Fort Smith — that there
was less timber to be cut away upon the hills than through the valleys ; or the low lands were
found soft and boggy during the rainy season.

Augusts — Camp 9. — Our camp-ground being a fine one, upon a grassy prairie near a small
creek called "Santa Rita," which, a few hundred yards below, empties into the Sans Bois, it
was thought best to remain here during the day and make explorations. Some of the survey-
ing and reconnoitring parties employed themselves in plotting their notes. The astronomical
and meteorological assistants carried on their computations ; while another division, taking the

* A term applied to a dense growth of bushes or small trees.

EXCURSION TO THE CANADIAN. — GAINES' CREEK.

13

guide, explored in a northerly direction, twelve miles, to the Canadian river. Two ranges of
mountains, or rather high hills, were crossed between camp and the Canadian. The valley of
the river is several miles in width. The stream itself, at the mouth of "Long-town creek,'*
supposed to he some twenty-five miles above the junction of the Canadian with the Arkansas,
is about 360 feet broad. The water flows sluggishly ; is of a whitish color, nearly clear, and
less than knee-deep. In the valley are great numbers of large hickory trees, cedars, and oaks.
An interesting collection of plants, shells, and fishes was obtained at this place.

Canadian river, at tlie niuuth of Long-town creek.

August 4 — Camp 10. — Desiring to make greater progress, we had the tents struck at daybreak,
but to little purpose. The road proved exceedingly rough, being crossed by deep gullies, worn
by the rains that had washed from the hills to the Sans Bois, upon our left. To repair it would
have occupied too much time, and two wagons were broken while pitching down one of these
hollows, producing a long delay. Passing into the bottom lands belonging to Gaines' creek,
the foliage of the forest seemed too dense to allow the sun to warm the earth or evaporate the
moisture, and the road was one long succession of miry sloughs and muddy pools. Having
travelled seventeen and a half miles, we encamped upon La Honda, a branch of Gaines' creek.
The survey had made good progress over ground favorable for a railway. The distances were

14

PERRY'S FARM — CHICKASAW VILLAGE. — COAL MEASURES.

measured by odometer, and the party arrived at camp before dark. Being surrounded by tall
trees that formed almost a canopy of foliage, the observations for latitude and time were few
and unsatisfactory.

August 5 — Camp 11. — Crossed La Honda, and a quarter of a mile beyond, forded Gaines'
creek. Continuing through the forest, we passed a village of Choctaws, and camped at a walled
spring near the farm-house of Stephen Perry. The country is beautiful, and the soil fertile.
Wherever a seed is sown, it produces a rich harvest.

Fraser, the guide, learning that his child had been taken ill, took leave of us with a sad
countenance to return home. At sunset, Stephen Perry arrived from the Perryville races. He
speaks English fluently, and gave an amusing description of the festival he had attended. He
is a complete Indian in color and features, but claims to be of mixed blood — Chickasaw, Choctaw,
and white. Upon his farm are several negro slaves, who seem to have the principal manage-
ment of the estate, buying and selling, and as close at a bargain as if the profits were their own.
They appear healthy and happy ; the children especially so. No work is required of them till
they arrive at the age often or twelve, and even then their duties are light. This evening we
were favored with a heavy shower, during which there fell 2.5 inches of rain.

August 6 — Camp 12. — Finding a Shawnee Indian at Perry's store, we induced him to accom-
pany us as far as the first Shawnee village, about 25 miles distant. He possessed a portly figure ;
and, upon the route, the only occasions upon which he seemed to deem his presence necessary
with the train were during meals, when he never failed to claim his ration. He was so digni-
fied and reserved, that it was some time before we discovered that he could speak English. The
survey proceeded very well. A high ridge was crossed which might have been avoided by
turning to the left. With this slight detour, the route for a railway would be nearly level.

August 7 — Camp 13. — We moved on, six miles, to Long Pond creek, where we are encamped.
The country traversed by the survey was quite hilly, though not decidedly unfavorable for a
railway. Woodlands occur both upon the heights and in ravines. The prairies also are more
undulating than they were east of the Sans Bois. The regular occurrence of these prairies
throughout so great an extent of forest country, is a phenomenon which I have not heard
satisfactorily explained. There appears to be no radical difference of soil to produce it. Their
alternations with forest seem independent of locality or exposure to winds. They exist equally
upon the hill-tops, the slopes, and in moist valleys. They occur too regularly, and are of too
limited an extent, to have been produced by fires.

The stream upon which we are encamped, in its course towards Coal creek, is obstructed by
ledges of rock, producing long and deep reservoirs of crystal water, abounding in fish. It
makes a capital bathing place.

August 8 — Camp 14. — Leaving camp, the road soon led us to bad hills. Mr. Campbell and
myself rode several miles upon both sides of the trail to reconnoitre ; and found that by keep-
ing south, near a branch of Coal creek, a more level route could be traced. Arriving at a
small Chickasaw village, we obtained, from an Indian, information about the country, which
corresponded with our own views. He told us that he had lived in this place seventeen years ;
that the road had been opened over the hills and ridges for the purpose of avoiding the soft
miry ground during the wet season upon the rich bottom lands near the streams. The trail
followed by our wagons, therefore, presents features more unfavorable for a railroad than others
that could be selected. Having surveyed ten miles by the road, we encamped upon a branch
of Coal creek. This stream is rightly named, for the coal-bearing strata are seen throughout
its course. The whole region from Fort Smith, being of the carboniferous formation, is believed
to be rich in bituminous coal. The inhabitants speak highly of it ; and, judging from use in
our blacksmith's forges, it seems to be of excellent quality. Sandstone and limestone sufficient
for the construction of bridges and viaducts occur in many parts of the route.

Our Shawnee traveller, " Wen-the-eh-bih," returned from the village, bringing with him a
large deputation from his tribe, laden with fruits, melons, and other articles of traffic. Learn-

SHAWNEE HILLS. — SHAWNEE SETTLEMENTS.

15

ing that there was an exceedingly bad hill a mile or two ahead, we accompanied him to examine
it. The report was not exaggerated. A long ridge, five hundred feet in height, called the
Shawnee Hills, was found, extending southwest from the Canadian. Upon a spur of this ridge
the road ascended at an angle of elevation varying from thirty to forty-five degrees, over
rocks and ledges of sandstone. The guide knew no way of avoiding it, hut had been told by
Shawnee hunters that it could be turned by traversing the forest south. Keturning to camp
through the edge of a wood, we encountered a flock of wild turkeys, the largest we had seen.
There must have been many hundreds.

August 9 — Camp 15. — Last evening a partial engagement was made Avith a Shawnee hunter
to guide us south around the ridge, but this morning he was not to be found. Having there-
fore sent the train and the base line of survey by the road, Mr. Campbell and myself ascended
a branch of Coal creek, north and northwest, to its source in the mountains. Thence we
crossed, by the lowest divide we could find, a sharp sandstone ridge, to a small stream, which,
crossing westwardly, joins Shawnee creek and flows into the Canadian. A heavy grade, and
a deep cut or tunnel from 500 to 1,000 yards in length, would probably be required at this
place to unite the two valleys. But all this might, doubtless, be avoided. Every indication
corroborates the Shawnee report of the country to the south, between the waters of Coal creek
and the Boggy ; and the route examined was so unfavorable that we determined to find a proper
guide, and make the reconnaissance referred to. Following the western slope of the hills, we
found a trail which led us through thick woodlands, until, having crossed the valley of the
stream, we entered the Shawnee village. A large peach orchard, whose trees were loaded with
fruit, first met our view. Houses, surrounded by gardens, orchards, and fields of grain, were
scattered along the banks of a clear rivulet. Upon reaching the road we found the advanced
party of the survey ; they were waiting for the train, and refreshing themselves with melons
at a comfortable looking farm-house. The Indian men were robust and intelligent ;. and the
women, dressed in neat calico frocks, with silver ear-rings, and brooches of Shawnee manufac-
ture, were by far the best looking of their race that we had ever seen. Some of the young girls
were almost white, with regular and pretty features. But an indication of the savage appears
in the fact that the women perform the duties of the field as well as of the household. They
break the soil, plant, gather the crops, and grind the corn. Most families, however, are pro-
vided with negro or Mexican slaves. In such case, these relieve the mistress of the more
laborious duties. The Shawnee men hunt deer and shoot turkeys, but are too lazy and too
proud to work.

Upon the arrival of the train we found that the road had proved even worse than had been
anticipated. At one place the wagons had to be let down a precipice by ropes. One of them
was upset, and an Aneroid barometer was broken. Proceeding about a mile beyond the village,
we encamped upon the bank of a pleasant stream flowing towards the Canadian.

August 10 — Camp 16. — Descending the bank of the stream, a wagon Avas upset, and the
tongue broken. As it would take some time to repair it, a party travelled ahead with a
Shawnee guide to examine the country. The way continued rough, though decidedly better
than it was yesterday. The scenery was fine, and many settlements were visible from the
roadside. Approaching some hills, there appeared a new road. The guide told us that it had
been built by the Shawnees, and. not only avoided hills, but was more direct. It proved to be
about two miles long, passing various Indian farm-houses. It was cut through a dense forest,
was nearly straight and level, with the gullies bridged over. We had not supposed that these
Indians possessed the energy, skill, and public spirit necessary to construct so good a Avork.
Having reached the old trail, we found a shady spot in a green valley, and there waited for the
train to come up. Meanwhile Jim amused us by relating some of the habits and customs of bis
tribe. Afterwards he inquired whether the ground would burn ; not the grass, nor leaves, he
said, but earth and gravel; and stooping, he gathered a handful in explanation. He wished
to know, to test the truth of a story that had been told him by a DelaAvare, who pretended to

16

MEXICAN CAPTIVES. — LITTLE RIVER.

have seen, towards the southwest, a hurning mountain, from which smoke and flames had issued
for three years. The story is, that the Delaware, while pursuing a bear, followed him into a
cave ; taking a torch with him, he planted it in a crevice, and, after shooting the bear, left it
there burning. From this the ground took fire, and could not be extinguished, and the earth
occasionally crumbles and falls in. If this be not an entire fabrication, it is probable that the
cave penetrated a vein of bituminous coal.

The train came up, and after a march of 8.5 miles, we encamped upon a small creek. Here,
through the kindness of Captain Montgomery, we received, by express, the mail from Fort
Smith. Mr. Rogers accompanied it, hoping to obtain permission to join our expedition ; but
the party being complete, it was impossible to comply with his request. This evening, from
the loquacious Jim, a vocabulary of the ShaWnee language was obtained.

August 11 — Camp 1*7. — Our route to-day passed over an interesting region ; more thickly
settled, and better cultivated, than any seen since leaving the Choctaw agency. A few miles
from camp we left on our right the road leading to Little river, and soon afterwards were in a
labyrinth of trails. We inquired of an Indian for the right road, but gained little satisfaction.
We doubted whether he understood our wishes, for the few replies his taciturnity allowed him
to utter seemed to denote that any one would answer our purpose. At length he intimated
that we might as well follow him. He was mounted upon a spirited horse, and our poor mules
were somewhat jaded, but we managed to continue a pursuit for about a mile, and then arrived
at an opening in the forest where were cultivated fields and a few houses. Our Indian friend,
being now at home, laid aside his dignity, and became quite communicative. He conversed
fluently in English, but surprised us more by addressing a good looking lad in Spanish. Upon
inquiry we found that the boy was a Mexican captive and slave. Speaking in Spanish, he told
his own story in few words, for his master appeared jealous of his holding intercourse with
strangers. He called himself Pablo. He is the son of Manuel Melendez, of the city of Durango.
His mother's name was Guadalupe Gonzales. When very young he was stolen from his friends
by Comanches. How long he remained with them he does not know ; but three and a half
years since, he was purchased from them by an Indian trader, and sold to this'Shawnee. He
appears to be ten or twelve years old, and is nearly as dark as an Indian. He speaks Spanish
with ease. He seems quite happy in his present condition, but says he would prefer to return
to his parents. Another "Spanish boy," as they are here called, lives with Johnson, a Shawnee.
Several are owned by Jesse Chisholm, the famous Cherokee guide. One of these captive boys
is valued at two or three hundred dollars. Nearly all of the more wealthy Indians of this
country — Shawnees, Creeks, Chickasaws, Choctaws, Cherokees, and Delawares — possess either
African or Mexican slaves.

Upon inquiring of our host the direction to Shawneetown he seemed nonplussed. After a
while, however, he made us understand that we might already consider ourselves within its
precincts. The numerous paths are, as it were, streets, uniting the various houses of this
extensive if not populous place. From one house to another the distances vary from a few
hundred yards to half a mile. Taking the direction indicated, we passed through the town,
with its numerous cultivated fields and gardens, to a small rivulet, some miles beyond, where
we found the train encamped. The road had proved rough and rocky, shattering the wagons
and breaking king-bolts. One broken wagon was left behind for repairs. The distance from
the last camp is but ten miles. Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Marcou, and some others made a detour of
about a mile to the Canadian ; and, crossing to the opposite side, visited the flourishing settle-
ment and trading post called Little River. It is pleasantly situated upon the banks of the
river where a stream bearing the same name as the town flows into the Canadian. Some inter-
esting collections were made there. Fossil shells were found belonging to strata below the
coal formation. In the vicinity are fragments of several Indian tribes. The "Quapois,"
according to Shawnee authority, are the remnant of a tribe formerly from Mississippi ; but for
some time they have lived a roving life, and lately moved hither from the West. Their lan-

CREEK INDIANS. — EXPLORATION TO COAL CREEK.

17

guage differs from that of either of the neighboring tribes. To-day we saw two Indians quite
unlike those previously noticed. They were Creeks. One was a lad, with face and features
almost Grecian. He was dressed in a "buckskin hunting-shirt, with a fringed wampum belt
around his head. By the side of a clear rivulet, in a nook sheltered from the noonday heat, he
was reclining upon the limb of an oak with perfect grace and Indian dignity, presenting an
admirable subject for a sketch.

August 12 — Camp 17. — Have not moved camp for various reasons. Wagons needed repair-
ing. There were king-bolts to be made at Little River, and a guide to be sought. The people
of the country seem to consider the latter indispensable to the success of our operations. Per-
ceiving that great advantages might be derived from information such as a guide should possess,
before leaving Fort Smith a messenger was sent to engage Black Beaver, a Delaware chief,
who, however, declined the service. Since then we have sought for Jesse Chisholm, celebrated
as a bold guide and good Indian interpreter. His services we hope to secure by waiting a day
or two, in order to communicate with him. He has gone to hunt for lost horses, and is expected
back to-morrow.

While the surveying parties were at work computing and plotting the notes, I rode to
Shawneetown in search of a guide to accompany an exploration back from the waters of the
Boggy, passing south of the Shawnee hills, to Coal creek ; but no one could be found willing to
undertake the trip. Having returned to camp, observations were made for latitude, longitude,
and magnetic declination of the needle.

August 13 — Camp 17. — Our wagons are not yet repaired, nor the necessary king-bolts made,
so that we have been compelled to wait another day. The reduction of the field-notes has been
continued. This afternoon an Indian came into camp who claimed to be a nephew of Black
Beaver. He professes to be well acquainted with the country south of the Shawnee hills, and
says that to-morrow he will conduct us by a smooth and direct route from our camp on the
Boggy to Coal creek.

August 14 — Camp 18. — The train resumed its march westward. The expected guide not
making his appearance, Mr. Campbell, Dr. Bigelow, and myself returned to Shawneetown,
hoping to find him ; otherwise, intending to make the explorations to Coal creek by ourselves.
We learned, however, that a Shawnee named Johnson, a great hunter, knew something about
the country in question. Following such trails as were indicated through the forest, we at
length reached Johnson's house, and fortunately found him at home. He agreed to accompany
us, and we set out. We travelled for two miles down the valley of the Boggy, and turning
eastward crossed several ravines and rivulets of that stream. Thence a gentle ascent led to the
top of a ridge, from fifty to one hundred feet in height-, which formed the divide. The country
beyond appeared still undulating, with alternate woodland and prairie. Without difficulty we
continued our route till, from an elevated spot, the guide pointed over an apparently level
prairie to the line of Coal creek. Having verified our position and taken a sketch, we returned
by a different and equally favorable route to Johnson's house, where supper was prepared, and
we were hospitably entertained for the night. Johnson seems to be a good specimen of the
Shawnee farmer. He has several fields of maize, squashes, and beans. Adjoining the house
is a magnificent peach orchard, whose trees are bent down by their burden of fruit. The farm
is well stocked with horses and cattle. We saw the Mexican captive boy before referred to, but
Johnson refused to sell or part with him.

Our exploration had been perfectly satisfactory. By the route that we examined a wagon
road could easily be cut, shortening the distance from Coal creek to the Boggy five or six miles,
and avoiding the Shawnee hills. For a railway the country is highly favorable, both as regards
grade and curvature. Light excavations and embankments will be required. Sandstone and
timber are abundant. Were we again to traverse this region with wagons, it would be easier
to construct a new road through the country specified than to follow the old trail.

August 15 — Camp 19. — Our guide proposed to accompany us as far as the Delaware Bettle-
3 h

18

SOURCES OF THE BOGGY. — TOPOFKI CREEK. — BEAVERSVILLE.

ment at Beaversville. At his suggestion, instead of following the train we kept the dividing
ridge hetween the Canadian and the headwaters of river Boggy, in order to avoid had canons
said to exist on that stream, and the hill at Delaware mount. Winding from spur to spur of
this ridge, it appeared that with considerahle lahor of excavation and embankment, a route for
a railroad, with light grade, might follow the ridge. Beyond, we reached an undulating
prairie, which extends, with a generally level surface, to Delaware settlement. Night approach-
ing, we sought camp. Turning south, we passed to the bluff edge of the high prairie, an4
enjoyed a fine view of the wide basin where several branches of the Boggy take their rise.
Through the trees we had had frequent glimpses of the valley during the day, and saw no
reason why it could not be crossed. Now it appeared like an extensive plain, watered and fer-
tilized by streams fringed with trees, and stretching southeast to the blue horizon. Descend-
ing from the hills, we entered the trail, and followed it about three miles, to camp. The train
had travelled twenty miles across the bottom lands, then ascended the Delaware ridge, about
fifty feet high, to the prairie referred to. The survey had been quite satisfactory, and the
route highly favorable for a railway.

From Shawneetown we have traversed the lower carboniferous formation. Delaware mount
is composed of limestone, affording a beautiful building material and quick-lime.

August 16 — Camp 20. — Travelled to-day about twelve miles, passing over a moderately hilly
country, and crossing various small streams, tributaries of Topofki creek. The main stream
itself bears evidence of being at times a large river. It is now but a thread, winding through
a gravelly bed thirty feet in width. Most of the branches showed water only in pools. Passed
in sight of the third Shawnee village. Many well-mounted Indians have been in camp, bring-
ing the produce of their fields for trade. A sick soldier was sent to Fort Arbuckle, guided by
an Indian. During this day's march the lower carboniferous group gave place to the new red
sandstone or Trias.

August 17 — Camp 21. — Soon after leaving camp we emerged from the woodlands and entered
a magnificent prairie that seemed to extend north to the Canadian. For several miles the
course was west, over an almost level plain. Beyond, the country swelled into gentle hills,
with wooded ravines, one of which we followed to the site of old Camp Arbuckle. The troops
have been removed to Fort Arbuckle, on the river Washita, thirty miles distant in a south-
westerly direction, and have left their log houses in possession of about a hundred Delaware
Indians, with Black Beaver for their chief. We halted upon a creek beside the village, four-
teen miles from our last camp. On account of the dryness of the season, this stream, which
usually flows north to the Canadian, now contains water only in pools. At the edge of a forest
a mile distant, Black Beaver says there is plenty of good water.

CHAPTER III.

Delaware Settlement to Oak Creek.

Difficulty of procuring a guide. — Jesse Chisholm. — Accounts of tke-Delawares: their rites and ceremonies. — Remarks regarding
the Comanches and other tribes. — Straying of animals. — Discovery of a comet. — Mexican captives. — A Delaware carousal. —
Return of Mr. Gaines. — Prairie on fire. — Cross Timbers. — Hueco Indians. — Vincente, the interpreter. — Kichai guide. — Branches
of Walnut creek. — Finely timbered valleys. — Fertility of the soil. — March interrupted by burning prairies. — A norther. — Deer
creek. — Buffalo crossing.— Rock Mary. — Gypsum creek. — Bear creek. — ■ Valley of False Washita. — Elm creek. — Comet creek. —
Silver creek. — Marcou creek. — Oak creek.

August 18— Camp 21. — We have now traversed the whole extent of country occupied by the
semi-civilized Indians of the Choctaw nation, and are upon the verge of the great western
prairies, over which wild savages hold almost undisputed sway. We are informed that the
season has been remarkably dry; many streams and springs, usually unfailing, being now
waterless. The Canadian river is uncommonly low; and Black Beaver apprehends that we
shall suffer on the trip before us, for the want of water. It is desirable, therefore, at this place
to make every arrangement, and take every precaution, to avert such a calamity as might
interrupt the operations of the survey. We shall, therefore, remain here till our mules, which
are becoming tender-footed, can be shod, and a guide, if possible, be obtained. By the advice
of the officers at Fort Smith, a messenger was sent to Black Beaver, some weeks since, to try to
secure his services. He is the only Indian of the country who has traversed the route we pro-
pose to take, near the valley of the Canadian. But he is in ill health, and no inducement can
prevail upon him to accompany us. Johnson, the Shawnee guide, who has given satisfaction
thus far, refuses to continue the trip, for fear of the savages. Our only dependence, therefore,
is upon John Bushman, a Delaware guide of some celebrity, and Jesse Chisholm, the Cherokee.
Both have been sent for. Their knowledge of the prairies would doubtless enable them to find
water in cases where the inexperienced would fail.

The various parties of the survey have been employed in computing and plotting their field-
notes, and in making scientific collections. Meteorological and barometric observations are kept
up during the day; and astronomical observations, as usual, at night. Bushman has arrived ;
and after much persuasion, agrees to accompany us for two dollars and fifty cents per day.

August 19 — Camp 21. — Bushman has receded from his engagement. He says, " Maybe you
find no water; maybe you all die." Impressed with this idea, no persuasion, no argument,
no money can prevail upon him to undertake the journey. Chisholm, who has arrived, also
declines the service. He is a man of considerable wealth, and extensively engaged in trade.
In the prosecution of his regular business, he could realize twice the amount the government
would be willing to pay for his services. His determination is to be regretted the more, from
the influence he possesses with the wild tribes westward. He is a man of excellent judgment,
and has travelled much among the western savages. At the great Indian council, held about
six weeks since, he was selected as the general interpreter of all: Comanches, Kioways, Kichais,
Creeks, Delawares, Shawnees, Chickasaws, and Choctaws. He has traded with, and been much
among the Comanches, and understands not only their language, but their manners, customs,
and ceremonies, probably better than any one not belonging to their tribe.

A vocabulary of Comanche words has been carefully compiled, according to his pronun-
ciation.

Finding that Chisholm would not accompany us, we visited Beaversville to learn from its chief

20

DELAWARE INDIANS. APPEARANCE OF COMET.

what lie might be able to communicate respecting the country we propose to traverse, and noted
bis remarks regarding the various springs and streams supposed to exist. His opinion was,
that, generally throughout the year, water would be found in abundance upon this route ; but,
on account of the remarkable drought, our chance of finding a supply would be exceedingly
doubtful.

There are said to be five hundred Delawares living \ipon the Canadian. Black Beaver admits
that they are less advanced in civilization and arts than those of the tribe who reside in the
country allotted to them; but he considers that region too cold. Considerable intimacy exists,
and intermarriages occur, between the Shawnees and Delawares. There is also some resem-
blance in personal appearance, both wearing the moustache. A vocabulary of the Delaware
language was obtained and verified as carefully as the patience of our interpreter would permit.
Black Beaver pretended to know but little of the superstitions of his people, and did not have
much faith in them. "In fact," said he, "sometimes I believe, and sometimes I don't." His
tribe, like the Creeks, have their priests or medicine men ; who, having been warned by a dream,
put on the sacerdotal robes, and minister at the sacred fires. Once a year, with great ceremony,
this fire is renewed. It is then constantly kept up by the priests, who are paid a sort of tithe ;
each man giving, according to his means, a horse, a cow, or of the produce of his fields. The
medicine men pretend to cure diseases and foretell events.

August 20 — Camp 21. — By the carelessness of the herders, the mules were allowed to stray,
and fifty were reported lost. Parties were immediately despatched from camp in various direct-
ions to search the woods and prairie, and before night all but three were recovered. Mr. Gaines
and the wagon-master are ill to-day. The former thinks his health too precarious to allow him
to accompany us farther ; and proposes to proceed to Fort Arbuckle, and there remain till he
has sufficiently recruited to return home.

August 21 — Camp 21. — The beef-cattle, purchased of Chisholm, broke from the corral and
escaped from the herders last night. Another day was required to secure them. An ineffectual
search has also been made for the three lost mules. White men make indifferent herders. For
taking care of mules, one Mexican peon is worth half a dozen of them.

The official reports to the government have been put in charge of Mr. Warren, who returns
from this place to Fort Smith. He also takes the zoological collection, to forward to the Smith-
sonian Institute. Arrangements have been made to enable Mr. Gaines to go to Fort Arbuckle
for medical attendance.

This evening a comet was discovered about 15° above the horizon, and 12° north of west,
with a vertical train directed towards the zenith. It was too low to allow its altitude to be
taken by a sextant and artificial horizon, but its distances from Jupiter, Arcturus, and Polaris,
were observed. The nucleus was about the size of Jupiter, but as faint as Venus after daybreak.
The train was bright, extending about 1^ degrees.

During the regular astronomical observations many brilliant meteors were seen. For a few
nights past we have noticed an increase in their number.

It has been already mentioned that Chisholm possesses several Mexican captives purchased
from the Comanches. Their names are, Vincente, son of a man called Demensio, from Parras,
and formerly of Tinaja; Mazimo, Guadalupe, Cidro Canales, and Mariana Transito. Besides
these there are two young women whose names are forgotten. Vincente was a long time with
his captors, and speaks the Comanche language perfectly. He is a bright, active, intelligent
lad, and Chisholm is very fond of him ; but on account of our need of an interpreter, he has
kindly given him permission to join our party.

August 22 — Camp 22. — Unable to remain longer, we commissioned Black Beaver to have a
search made for the lost mules, promising a reward to any one who should restore them. Camp
Avas then struck, and the party resumed the march and survey. Mr. Gaines and myself drove
to Beaversville, where he proposed to obtain a guide to Fort Arbuckle. But as we approached
the village, instead of the quiet heretofore noticed, a confused jargon of sounds issued from

INDIAN CAROUSAL. — BURNING PRAIRIE.

21

every house. The first we entered was full of men and women, so ahsorhed in their own occu-
pations that for some time we were apparently unnoticed. Several were hrandishing hottles of
whiskey, occasionally applying them to their lips, and singing the Indian "hi-ho-hi-e-6," heat-
ing with hand and foot to keep time with a sort of flute that one was playing, while the women,
with hunches of hells upon their ankles, were dancing to the music. All were in a state of
drunken excitement, and never was witnessed a scene more wild and infernal. They at length
surrounded us, presenting their hottles with shouts, yells, and a profusion of unintelligihle
words. At another house, intoxication was exhibited in a different but still more disagreeable
phase. There were a party of gamblers, excited to madness over whiskey and cards. One
cursed us in round English, and bade us begone. We thought proper to take no notice of this,
but asked for the chief. The question sobered him somewhat, and he told us that the object of
our search had gone to our late camp. Driving back to the camp-ground, we found Black
Beaver, with Dr. Bigelow, awaiting us. He informed us that a party of Creeks had arrived the
previous night with a barrel of whiskey, which was the cause of the disorder we had witnessed.
Learning our wants, he immediately furnished animals and a guide, and we saw the little party
safely started on its way to the fort. Mr. Gaines was provided with a revolver, that he might
have the wherewith to defend himself if necessary. We were sorry to take leave of him, for
his gentlemanly deportment and amiability had won strong hold upon our regard. Dr. Bige-
low and myself followed the train. Overtaking it, we travelled over a fine undulating prairie
for about eighteen miles, and encamped upon a rivulet, a tributary of the Canadian.

One of the party being ahead to-day, looking for water, discovered two Indians setting fire to
the prairie. When they saw him, one hid himself in the grass. The other allowed himself to
be approached, and, in reply to a question, made signs that there was no water beyond. They
were probably Kichais, who live on the opposite side of the Canadian, at Chouteau's old trading-
post. That tribe is neither numerous nor warlike ; but taking advantage of their position, they
form a sort of connecting-link between the wild Indians and the semi-civilized. They cultivate
the soil, hunt, and are supposed to have no objection to plunder, whenever a favorable oppor-
tunity presents itself. The fire which had been kindled threatened camp, and we were obliged
to burn a wide space around us for protection. At night its appearance was sublime. Huge
waves of flame, with a roaring sound like that of the ocean, were rolling over the rank grass,
and rushing onward with fearful rapidity. In camping upon the dry prairie, it requires con-
stant vigilance to avoid the catastrophe of a conflagration. Many a party has, by carelessness
in this respect, been reduced to a destitute condition.

Water was passed, to-day, in pools, at four different places. At the head of a creek, near
camp, there is a fine spring. The water disappears a few hundred yards below. We encamped
early, fearing that it might not be found for a long distance beyond. The route has been favor-
able, with a pleasant view extending for many miles on either side. The ravines were wooded,
and patches of timber were scattered at irregular intervals along the route, forming detached
portions of the Cross Timbers. We have pursued the trail of Capt. Marcy, which follows the
almost inappreciable ridge that divides the waters of Red river from those of the Canadian.

The comet seen last night has been again observed. Its motion has been towards the east.
It appears to-night much less distinct; but this effect is possibly due to the smoky atmosphere.
Three stars have been observed in connexion with it, and observations made also for latitude
and time.

August 23 — Camp 23. — The water in the creek at the last camp was apparently undiminished,
notwithstanding the great quantity consumed by the train. At 6^ a. m. the mules were driven
from the rich grama, where they had been feeding ; harnessed up, and by half-past seven the
train was in motion. Turning from our general westward course, we proceeded northerly
towards a distant grove, which may be Capt. Simpson's land-mark for the Kichai village at
Chouteau's. After travelling ten miles over a smooth prairie, we encamped. Water occurs at
various places to the right and left of the route. Springs are frequent. The one at camp issues

22

HUECO VISITORS. — CROSS TIMBERS.

from a bed of marl, so soft that the mules cannot approach, and they have to be watered with
buckets. The results of the survey thus far are highly satisfactory — the grades being light,
and timber and water abundant. Burning prairies have surrounded us to-day, and the smoke
has been so dense as nearly to obscure the sun. Two Indians, professing to be Kichais, came,
this evening, into camp — the one tall and straight, the other ill-looking. Their dress con-
sisted of a blue cotton blanket wrapped around the waist, a head-dress of eagles' feathers, brass
wire bracelets, and moccasins. The outer cartilages of their ears were cut through in various
places, and short sticks inserted in place of rings. They were painted with vermilion, and
carried bows of bois d'arc three feet long, and cowskin quivers filled with arrows. The latter
were about twenty-six inches in length, with very sharp steel heads, tastefully and skilfully
made. The feathers with which they were tipped, and the sinews which bound them, were
prettily tinted with red, blue, and green. The shafts were colored red, and said to be poisoned.

I have mentioned, that before leaving Beaversville, Chisholm placed at my disposal a Mexi-
can boy named Vincente, from Parras. That place was surprised by the Comanches when he
was a child; many of the inhabitants, including probably his parents, murdered; and himself,
with a sister and several others, taken away as captives. For many years he was a slave among
the Comanches, taking care of their horses and performing other services. Wandering about
with them from place to place, he learned their language, and the signs they employ in con-
versing with other tribes. At length he was seen and purchased by Chisholm when on a tra-
ding expedition. He gave for him goods to the value of two hundred dollars. The sister was
married to a Comanche, and is yet living with them against her will. Vincente is probably
sixteen or seventeen years of age, but not larger than a well-developed lad of eleven. He has
an oval face, black eyes, Spanish features, and a pleasing expression; he speaks English, Span-
ish, and Comanche. It is easy to see that his character has been formed among the savages, for
he displays in a marked degree the apparent indifference and obstinacy peculiar to the Indian
race.

After our two Indian visitors had eaten and smoked, Vincente was required to examine them.
They understood neither Comanche, Spanish, nor English; but our little interpreter was by no
means disconcerted at that. With occasionally a word in Caddo, which to some extent seems
to be used by all the tribes of this region, and signs, such as are comprehended by the universal
Indian race, a rapid conversation was carried on. The graceful motions of the hands seemed
to convey ideas faster than words could have done, and with the whole operation we were highly
amused and interested.

Our visitors now said that they were not Kichais, but Huecos, and that they were upon a
hunting excursion; that their tribe numbered " plenty," and lived beyond the Washita river
towards Texas. When they had received some presents, and a sketch of them had been taken,
they left, well pleased with their entertainment. These Huecos wore neither beard nor mous-
tache, so common among Shawnees and Delawares. Some of the Choctaws sport a heavy beard.
The white blood among them may account for this manly development.

August 24 — Camp 24. — As we were preparing to pursue our journey, another Indian rode into
camp. He said he was a Hueco; and having seen us while hunting, came merely to ask where
we were going. In Vincente's pantomime and Caddo, we inquired the direction to the old
wagon trail, which being very obscure, we had unintentionally departed from. He offered to
guide us to it. Following him down an affluent of the Washita, and passing through a strip
of forest, we encountered a difficult ravine. Before us were the dense Cross Timbers, and a
country cut up by numerous rivulets, and without the least trace of a road. While reconnoi-
tring our position, the Indian guide deserted. We were proposing to retrace our steps, when
another Indian, supposed to be a true Kichai, made his appearance. For a consideration, he
showed us the desired route, which was upon the northern slope of the ridge intersecting the
branches of Walnut creek. All these rivulets are finely-flowing streams, watering a large
extent of beautiful country. We found one twelve feet wide, and several feet deep, which could

WALNUT CREEK AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.

23

with difficulty be forded. The valley, as far as it could he seen, was from one to two miles in
width, and luxuriant in timber and grass. While searching for a good place to cross, the quar-
termaster proposed to encamp, and allow the mules time to graze upon the green meadow-grass.
Though the march had been short, the animals were weary from crossing the marshy streams ;
and, fearing that another as good camp ground might not present itself, we concluded to re-
main for the night. Having taken a portrait of the Kichai, and a vocabulary of his language,
we gave him a shirt, a string of beads, a pipe, tobacco, and a dollar in money, and allowed
him to depart. He said that he was afraid to sleep in camp, lest his friends might think we
had killed him. So he went away, promising to return on the morrow, and guide us onward.
We have had rain to-day, falling about one-eighth of an inch. The night being cloudy, no
astronomical observations can be made. The cloud lifted from the west just sufficiently to show
the comet, which has considerably increased in brilliancy and size. Its train is now turned to
an angle of 5° from the vertical, and seems to be about 6° in length. The nucleus appears
nearly the same as when it was first seen.

August 25 — Camp 25. — Our Indian guide returned to camp early this morning begging for
coffee. He says that he slept in a thicket near by ; and some of our party think that it was he
who created a disturbance last night among the mules. It is very possible that he may have
desired an animal to ride home upon, but the sentinels were vigilant, and he will go as he came.
While preparing to move on, a negro rode into camp, express from Capt. Montgomery and Mr.
Aird, bringing the mail. Letters from our friends at this distance were an unexpected pleasure.
Having bridged the stream, we passed through fertile valleys with groves of superb timber, ash,
walnut, and oak, bordering the water-courses. Numerous lawns sloped down to the banks of
Walnut creek upon the right; whose rich meadows were so mellow as to compel us to seek firmer
ground on the swell of the prairie. Many rivulets, with crystal waters dancing in the sun-
light, added to the beauty of the landscape ; but, from the marly nature of the soil they trav-
ersed, greatly retarded our march. Having passed several branches, whose clear depths afforded
new varieties of fishes, the trail conducted us at length to the bank of Walnut creek. To
avoid the crossing we turned south, ascended the higher ground, and travelled along the edge
of a belt of the Gross Timbers, whose small trees of live oak, post-oak, and black jack, were too
thick to penetrate. Upon the opposite side of the#Canadian, we could trace the long line of
similar forest that borders the river. We continued a mile or two nearly south ; then west and
northwest. After travelling twelve miles we found two springs ; one flowing into the Washita,
the other towards the Canadian. Upon the latter we encamped. Though this is supposed to be
the driest period of an unusually dry season, the country proves to be a land of springs and
streams, watering beautiful and fertile valleys. The surface of the intervening prairies is what
is termed "rolling," and a railway near our track would require a moderate amount of cutting
through hills of compact gravel. But a more level route appears along the valley of Walnut
creek. The banks of the Canadian itself, probably ten to twenty miles north of our trail, may
offer still greater advantages.

The night is quite cloudy; but we have succeeded in making a few astronomical observations.
The comet was visible for a while, covering, with its train, about six degrees of arc ; but, per-
haps from the greater brightness of the western horizon, it appeared somewhat less luminous
than on the previous night. Its distances from Polaris and Arcturus were observed before it
was obscured by a cloud.

August 26 — Camp 26. — At early day> a Hueco Indian came into camp. It appeared, from
what he said, that the one who had endeavored to lead us astray by conducting the train soul In-
ward towards their village had informed his friends that we wished to see the chief; who had,
therefore, with a few followers, attempted to overtake us. But the night previous, the chief
had abandoned the pursuit, and sent forward the messenger who had now reached us. It is
probable that they were all lurking near camp last night, and at that moment wore watching
us from some concealed spot to witness his reception, according to Indian custom. They wished

24

BURNING PRAIRIE. — NORTHER. — DEER CREEK.

to learn our strength, and the probability of being able to stampede our mules. We treated
the man kindly, gave him something to eat and some presents. He understood a few Comanche
words ; and, with the aid of expressive signs, Vincente conversed with him easily. We obtained,
therefore, a portion of the Hueco vocabulary, and then would have let him go, but he preferred
to accompany us.

After travelling about five miles, our progress was suddenly arrested by a burning prairie.
The grass was tall, thick, and dry. The wind had driven the widespread flames over the crest
of a hill, directly towards us ; and they now came leaping into the air, roaring in the distance,
and crackling fearfully as they approached. There seemed to be no safety except in flight.
The train, therefore, countermarched in double quick time, and took refuge behind a watery
ravine, where the grass was too green to burn freely. Taking advantage of a comparatively
bare spot, the flames were fought, and a temporary opening made, through which the train
passed to the black-burned prairie, which we traversed in safety. Mile after mile we trod
nothing but cinders. The Cross Timbers occasionally disappeared. The country became nearly
level, and to the edge of the horizon presented a woodless, waterless, desolate field of black
ashes. Here and there were solitary clumps of withered grass nourishing burning embers. It
was a dreary prospect for the hungry mules, and we began to fear lest the Indians had adopted
this means of accomplishing our destruction. At last some ravines appeared which had inter-
rupted the flames, and protected fine fields of grass. By the edge of one containing large pools
or springs of water we encamped, having travelled sixteen miles. A shower occurred during
the afternoon. The evening was stormy and cold, rendering a fire indispensable for comfort.
A single dead alamo, the only tree within sight, with a few low shrubs, furnished a scanty pit-
tance of wood; and as the clouds and wind destroyed all hopes of obtaining astronomical obser-
vations, we early sought warmth under the covering of our blankets.

August 27 — Camp 27. — Last night we were aroused by a confusion of sounds. A fierce
"norther" was upon us, with wind, rain, and sleet. The whole camp seemed in an uproar;
some shouting, some laughing, and others making the ground quake with blows of mallets,
driving their tent-pins. After much ado, and a thorough drenching in the sleet, a few of our
tents were preserved standing. Many were less fortunate, and morning disclosed a ludicrous
assemblage of miserable half-frozen wretches,, quietly shivering under prostrate canvass. There
were puddles of water within and over their beds, and all were glad to avail themselves of the
first light of day to stretch their benumbed limbs. The poor mules, gaunt with hunger and
shrivelled with cold, were huddled together with their faces turned fi'om the blast; but having
been driven into the ravine, where they were partially sheltered from the storm, they grazed
while we breakfasted. Then, seeing no escape from freezing but by exercise, we harnessed up
and faced the tempest. Our Hueco guest, poor fellow, suffered terribly, even with the additional
blankets that we loaned him ; so, without compliments, at the dawn of day he took up his bed
and departed. We did not see him again.

Recommencing our march, the long line of Cross Timbers soon varied the landscape. Gypsum
appeared upon the surface of the prairie. Not far beyond, we entered the lovely valley of Deer
creek, which bears the clear sweet waters of numerous tributaries to the Canadian. These
rivulets are well-wooded, and irrigate wide valleys ; which, for grazing or agricultural purposes,
can scarcely be excelled. The soil is a rich loam, which makes the banks of the streams miry
and difficult to cross. Having travelled, therefore, about fourteen miles, we encamped in a
pleasant nook, bordering Deer creek. Upon the hill behind is an Indian village, not long
since deserted. Below is a break in the thick border of timber that lines the creek; and here,
deep-furrowed trails show a regular buffalo crossing. The river is rapid, clear, two and a half
feet in depth, and six feet wide. Upon either hand, stately oaks cast deep shadows on tangled
shrubs and flowers, and the mules grazing in the meadows are nearly concealed by the luxuriant
grass.

The norther was broken at midday. At sunset the wind ceased, but clouds arose; so that

ROCK MARY. — NATURAL MOUNDS. — END OF CROSS TIMBERS.

25

only imperfect observations were taken for time. For the same reason, the comet was in-
visible.

August 28 — Camp 28. — Having crossed the creek, we found many Indian lodges upon the left
bank, and remains of fires. After examining the latter, Vincente pronounced them to have
been made by Kickapoos ; the different tribes having peculiar arrangements for the sticks that
compose their camp-fires.

Following the trail, we left Deer creek, and, having travelled north two miles to the
"divide," turned westward parallel to the river Canadian, which appeared about two miles to
our right. Water we did not search for ; but ravines upon the left bore indications of it. At
the end of thirteen miles, finding a spring supposed to be near the head of Deer creek, we en-
camped. Spurs from the ridge that divides the Canadian from Deer creek, rendered our route
to-day moderately hilly. A railway, however, would keep the valley, it being not only level,
but more direct. The night has been partially clear, affording good sextant observations for
latitude and time. The comet appeared more brilliant than before, with a train about eighteen
degrees in length.

August 29 — Camp 29. — JIave travelled to-day nineteen miles, passing "Kock Mary" and
other mounds accurately described by Simpson and others. The first part of the march was

Rock Mary.

over a pleasant country, with occasional springs, and a view of the Cross Timbers to the left.
But entering among the remnants of mesas called "natural mounds," we found ourselves in
the midst of a desert of sand. The mounds looked like the evil genii of an evil place, and we
became impatient to reach the end of this dreary waste. At length, after going about ten
miles, grass began to appear, and a rivulet was found, affording a place for camp. There is
no timber near, but sufficient wood for cooking purposes. The belt of Cross Timbers we have
now left behind us. Upon the opposite side of the Canadian, however, tho forest has invasion -
4 h

26

GYPSUM CAVES. — VALLEY OF THE WASHITA.

ally been seen to-day, appearing to extend still farther west. The night is again cloudy.
Few astronomical observations have been made. The train of the comet is inclined about 8° to
the south of the vertical.

August 30 — Camp 30. — Gypsum in every variety of form — fibrous, laminated, and crystal —
has now become abundant. Irregular caves appeared to-day to the right of the route, among
huge masses of this rock, so large that we entered to explore them. Except to the geologist,
however, they were of little interest. A want of trees and scarcity of grass characterized the
level plain we have traversed. Sixteen miles brought us to a spring on the right of the road,
where we encamped. The water is slightly brackish. Buffalo-bones are bleaching near it.

August 31 — Camp 31. — A mile from camp we entered a pretty little valley watered by a
rivulet, with pools abounding in fishes supposed to be of unknown species. We call the stream
Gypsum creek, from being the first of importance in that formation. It is finely wooded with
red oak, post-oak, alamo, and elm. The water is tinctured with magnesia, and is disagreeable
to the taste. The channel is deep, leaving, at the present low water, high steep banks difficult
to pass. At some seasons the water must be so high that a bridge or boat would be required
for crossing. Four miles west, having passed a prairie spur which runs out from the low ridge
that separates us from the waters of the Canadian, we enjoyed an extensive prospect. Spread
before us was a wide basin watered by numerous well wooded rivulets, coursing towards a su-
perb valley upon our left. There, from northwest to southeast, flows the Washita. As we
descended to the first of these streams, two black bears issued from the wood, and rolled their
ungainly bodies towards the prairie. The hunters lost their game, but the stream nevertheless
acquired the name of Bear creek. Moving onward, somewhat south of west, across a prairie,
three miles brought us to another stream about twelve feet wide and three feet deep, also flow-
ing south to the Washita. As elms were thickly interspersed among the oaks and alamos on
its banks, we named this Elm creek. The crossing was exceedingly bad. At high water it
would not be fordable. The canon in which it flows, however, is not more than forty feet wide,
and therefore may easily be bridged. Crossing a ravine, within a mile we entered the beautiful
valley of a river about twenty feet wide, and flowing from west towards the southeast, probably
the main branch of the Washita. Having followed the left bank for some distance, we again
ascended the elevated prairie to avoid ravines, and, four miles beyond, encamped upon the steep
bank of another branch called, in honor of the splendid visitor which has for several nights
been beckoning us westward, Comet creek.

Through a country like that we have been traversing, there can be no difficulty in selecting
a route for a railway. There is plenty of material for its construction. The soil of the valleys
is rich, and eminently adapted to agriculture, while the prairies afford abundant pasture for
flocks and herds. Mills could be erected upon the streams, which seem to be unfailing. The
water is slightly saline, but not decidedly unpalatable. Indian fires have been seen, and a
bright light appears this evening to the northeast. We tried to observe the comet, but a thick
haze in the west rendered it invisible till daylight was passing away, when it appeared in the
horizon for a moment to bid us, probably, a long farewell.

September 1 — Camp 32. — Having with much labor cut down the banks of Comet creek, and
with branches of trees made a firmer road over the miry soil, the train crossed safely, and
passed over rolling prairies, with fine views, to the left, of valleys, and streams fringed Avith
trees. We came, to-day, to the lower bed of the cretaceous formation overlying the gypsum.
Oolitic sandstone, limestone, and oyster-shells abounded, proving the theory of the geologist,
that the sandstone we have passed is, like that of Lake Superior, the new red.

Leaving upon our left the great valley of the Washita, of which we have since had occasional
glimpses, we passed over a long extent of prairie, and encamped upon Silver creek, a small
tributary fifteen miles from Comet creek. Excellent water and grass are found near. Wood
occurs upon the stream a little below. Astronomical observations have been obtained for lati-
tude and time.

MARCOU CREEK. — OAK CREEK. BUFFALO GRASS.

27

September 2 — Camp 33. — Travelled about four miles and arrived at Marcou creek, where was
a geological outcrop, which, contrary to expectation, proved to he gypsum. Five miles beyond
we came to Wood creek, a similar stream, the crossing of which was attended with much
trouble. Elms, cotton-wood, and oaks were growing near. Continuing two and a half miles
over the prairie, we struck a stream with flowing water, and a fine wooded valley. Having
ascended its oak-lined banks four miles, we encamped upon the west side. Burnt prairies now
surround us, accounting for the bright fires seen lately at night. This is probably the work of
Indians to prepare fresh grass for the herds of buffalo that will be slaughtered on their return
from the north. Two carcasses of these animals were seen to-day, and the rich grama which
bears the name of " buffalo-grass" also made its appearance for the first time. The water of
Oak creek is but slightly brackish, though the banks are full of efflorescent salts of sulphate of
magnesia.

CHAPTER IV.

From Oak Creek to Rocky Dell Creek.

Buffalo creek. — Alamo spring. — Divide between the False Washita and Canadian. — Entrance to Canadian valley. — Antelope
hills. — Grape creek. — Buffalo and other game. — Interview with Comanches. — Wolf creek. — Natural mounds. — Wine creek. —
Vineyard. — Valley river. — Meeting with Kiowas. — Mexican traders. — Kiowa village. — Captives. — Council with the Indians. —
Crossing of the Canadian. — Abandoned trading post. — White Sandy creek. — Shady creek. — Deserted Comanche encampment. —
Red Bank creek. — Beautiful View creek. — Llano Estacado. — Encampment creek. — Rocky Dell creek.

September 3 — Camp 34. — Leaving Oak creek, we crossed a prairie country, and at the end
of six miles reached Buffalo creek. This was a ravine with large cotton-woods and oak ; hut,
somewhat to our surprise, it contained no water at the crossing. The dark green foliage of the
trees indicated moisture not far heneath the surface. A sj)ecies of grama called huffalo-grass
heing now predominant, and huffalo "signs" appearing on the prairie, the ahove name was
suggested for the rivulet. A heautiful specimen of petrified wood was found in its hed. Nine
miles beyond we came to Alamo spring, where the animals were watered. Thence, passing the
divide, five or six miles led us to a spring, which, flowing towards the north, becomes tributary
to the Canadian. This is the end of tbe emigrant "cut-off," and is supposed to be near Simp-
son's Camp 40. The trail which he followed along the Canadian here made its appearance.
From tbe valley of the Washita to that of the Canadian, there are few engineering difficulties
to surmount in the location of a railway. The elevation of the dividing ridge is 280 feet above
t he Canadian. By a deep cut, sixty feet could be taken off, and easy slopes on both sides would
overcome the rest. The landscape has been uninviting, being a barren prairie, with unsightly
gullies worn from the red hills by occasional rains. Trees generally filled the ravines, and
water was sometimes found in pools, but there was no soil fit for cultivation.

The keen eyes of Vincente caught a glimpse to-day of a single buffalo feeding far off upon the
hills. At once he darted off, with a pistol, in pursuit. The white pony seemed to partake of
his master's ardor, and they were soon but a speck in the distance. The boy returned hours
after, quite crestfallen, from an unsuccessful pursuit.

September 4 — Camp 35. — We had proposed to rest to-day, but as the water, tasting like
Epsom salts, proved disagreeable, we continued the journey. Crossing with some difficulty
several ravines and intervening spurs leading from the crest to the river, at the end of about
two miles we approached the Canadian. It did not appear the noble stream we had hoped to
find, but flowed in various small channels over a bed about five hundred feet wide. The water in
some places may have been a foot deep ; and, though red with mud,* was found palatable to
the taste. The valley, several hundred yards in width, is covered with a mellow soil containing
efflorescent salts, like the banks of the Bio del Norte. Frequently spots are found without
vegetation ; but if the land were cultivated, the crops would probably be as excellent as in New
Mexico. The contrast with the luxuriant valley of the Washita is not agreeable. Some allow-
ance should be made, however, for the unusual dryness of the season. For about six miles we
pursued the level surface of the valley, and then ascended the mesaf which bounds it. Our
course was shaped for the Antelope hills which appeared in the distance, but, unexpectedly
striking a creek of sweet water, we encamped twelve miles from Epsom spring.

September 5 — Camp 35. — Our beef-cattle being sore-footed and fatigued, it seems proper to

* Prairie travellers clarify muddy water by dropping into the vessel containing it pieces of mucillaginous cactus,
t An elevated table-land.

ANTELOPE HILLS. — BUFFALO AND OTHER GAME.

29

allow them a day of rest. The men also need time to bathe and wash their clothing, and we
have decided to remain in camp. Astronomical and meteorological observations go on as usual,
and the notes of the survey are examined, reduced, and some of them hastily plotted. The day
has been very hot ; but, as a compensation, night has brought a nortnc , with a sprinkling of
rain.

September 6 — Camp 36. — The norther continued, but in a mild form, allowing the survey to
proceed without interruption. We crossed several creeks flowing in deep, wooded ravines, and
in one the spring wagon containing instruments was overturned, the Gay Lussac barometer
broken, and the sextant and chronometers thrown upon the ground. The injuries they may
have sustained will be determined by future observations. After seeing a broken swingle-tree
replaced, and the carretela safely out of the sandy bed of the creek, which was a hundred and
fifty feet wide, we rode on to examine the Antelope hills. These lie near the meridian of 100°
west from Greenwich; and, serving to mark the boundary of Texas, are sometimes called the
Boundary hills. They are composed of sandstones cemented with lime, and are of the mesa
form. They are about a hundred and twenty-five feet high, and capped, as Simpson describes,
"with a table of white vesicular sandstone, eighteen feet thick, and horizontally stratified."
Upon the side of one was found volcanic scoria, but it was erratic. The train moved on, Dr.
Bigelow and myself awaiting the surveying party, which for several miles had not been seen.
For an hour and a half we wandered among the hills, searching for specimens of rocks and
flowers, and viewing an expanse of prairie bounded on the south by the dim outline of the
Witchita mountains. The line of the Canadian appears sweeping to the north, and the trail
we follow was made to avoid the bend. We were becoming anxious about our friends, and on
the point of going back for them, when they came in sight. An accident to the odometer had
occasioned the delay. An Indian had been seen to cross the trail in front of them several
times, but had kept at a distance. Five miles beyond the Antelope hills, we passed the sandy
bed of a stream without water upon the surface. From the fruit that abounded in its vicinity, we
called it Grape creek. Continuing our journey to another sandy arroyo, we followed its bank
half a mile to the Canadian, and encamped.

The route to-day through the Antelope hills, over prairies, and across ravines, has been dry
and sandy. The scanty grass appeared of an earthy hue, relieved only by red gullies and occa-
sional ravines, showing the foliage of stunted trees. A few pools of water were seen. But the
valley of the Canadian, near camp, displays green grass and patches of wood. The river is
deeper and less muddy than before. Game has become plenty. Five buffalo were grazing
near the trail, and the hunters pursued them, but without success. Vincente, however, brought
down a fat doe, which he proudly dragged into camp. One party fell upon a flock of wild
turkeys, lodged in a thicket near the bank of the river, and secured several. Two prairie dogs
and an owl were sacrificed to science, and all seemed recompensed for a weary march. A large
tiger was discovered near camp, but he escaped.

On the opposite side of the river is a long, white sand-bank, visible a great distance, and,
therefore, a good landmark for travellers.

September 7 — Camp 37. — After leaving camp, we crossed a succession of sandy arroyos ; some
dry, others containing small pools or streams of water. Prairie dogs were numerous, and
barked with great energy to warn us away from their villages. They were, however, very
cautious, dropping into their holes whenever danger approached.

Dr. Bigelow to-day wandered far from the train in search of new species of plants. Near
the river he encountered a rattlesnake of such remarkable size that he determined to secure it
for a specimen. He therefore went back to a ravine, obtained a club of proper dimensions, and
returned. It is the habit of this animal neither to run from men nor to attack them unless
molested. But, as the Doctor approached, the coiled reptile gave a rattle, warning him of
danger. Another step nearer and he leaped erect, nearly to the full height of a man ; his
neck proudly curved, his head flattened with anger, and his protruding fangs swollen with

30

COMANCHE INDIANS. NATURAL VINEYARDS.

deadly venom. It was evident to the Doctor that, in Western parlance, "he had waked the
wrong passenger." There was to be a struggle. It commenced; the Doctor trying in vain to
mow down his wily antagonist. Keen eyes watched every motion, and as the strokes descended
the agile form glided past, and sprang towards the assailant. For some time a lively contest
was kept up, and it seemed doubtful which would gain the victory. At length, however, both
became weary, and a successful blow placed his snakeship hors du combat. The Doctor then
fired eight shots in rapid succession ; whether to complete his conquest, or celebrate his victory,
does not fully appear. But supposing him to be in a desperate fight with Indians, a party
galloped off to his rescue.

The relief party, scouring the prairies, found a wounded buffalo, which one of them kindly
pierced with a rifle-ball and put out of misery. It was the first killed upon the trip, and
consequently a glorious achievement. A short distance beyond they came across a small party
of well-mounted Comanches, whom they brought in prisoners. The Indians appeared wary,
cautious, and watchful. Having told us that upon the other side of the Canadian there were
large numbers of their tribe, they suddenly forgot all their Spanish, and by signs desired us to
know that they could not understand a word we said to them. Indians think it undignified to
speak other than their native tongue. Hence, all great chiefs have interpreters. We sought
for Vincente, but, as usual when wanted, he was chasing buffalo or deer over the prairies.
That is his passion. The Indians declined our invitation to camp. Before allowing them to
depart we gave them a pipe and tobacco to smoke. They performed the operation in a singular
manner. The first two* puffs, with much ceremony and muttering between, were sent towards
the sun. The next, in similar manner, was blown down to the ground. When the artist had
taken their portraits, they were allowed to go. Another was afterwards seen lurking among
the hills, and watching our movements.

Having travelled about sixteen miles, we encamped near the mouth of Wolf creek. The
natural mounds appear upon our left. The country across the prairie spurs is still dreary and
barren. The ravines, however, are generally wooded and watered. The valley of the Cana-
dian seems to offer greater facilities for a railway than the more direct route which we have
traversed. The carretela which carries the instruments was again upset, and another barometer
broken. One of the chronometers also must have been deranged, as it stopped this evening in
the midst of the observations.

September 8 — Camp 38. — Two miles' travel along the sandy bed of a creek brought us to the
Canadian valley ; at that place a mile in width, and appearing to have a good soil. On the
opposite bank were sand-hills, and a border of trees. Following the edge of the valley for
four miles, we reached the mouth of Dry river, the wide sandy bed of which bore upon its sur-
face recent traces of water. Higher up was a flowing stream. We passed through some
drifted sand-hills ; and, to avoid ravines, continued to ascend the Canadian valley, which had
nearly doubled in width. Having made about eighteen miles, we encamped near the mouth
of Wine creek, where were acres of land covered with grape-vines, looking like a cultivated
vineyard. The fruit, which covers the vines in magnificent clusters, is small, juicy, and of an
agreeable flavor. It does not appear yet to be fully ripe. We have passed to-day hills similar
in character and form to the Antelope hills. These appear to be the last mesa remnants of a
llano, or prairie, which once covered the whole region. The other parts of the formation have
been abraded and swept away, forming undulating prairies, valleys, ravines, and sometimes
canons.

September 9 — Camp 39. — At our last camp grama grass was more abundant than usual. The
water in the channel of the Canadian was probably three feet deep, and moderately clear.
After leaving camp we crossed a spur of hills that approached the river, and again descended to
the valley, which became wide and contained good grass and clumps of trees. Six miles brought

* Vincente. upon learning this afterwards, said they were medicine men, and very bad. He has great fear of their spells and
incantations.

KAIOWA ENCAMPMENT. — MEXICAN CAPTIVES. 31

tis to the mouth of a wooded creek without water flowing upon the surfaoe. Here were the
remains of an extensive Indian encampment, with "signs" quite recent. The crotched sticks
of hundreds of wigwams had been left standing. The grass was closely cropped, and the trails
to the river were large and fresh. Wild grapes were again abundant; tempting the men, some
of whom had already suffered severely from eating to excess. Few, however, can set bounds to
an appetite so seldom gratified upon the prairie. We soon entered a large Indian trail, which,
leading through a deserted camp, brought us in sight of an Indian village. Great excitement
was produced, each one being desirous to be among the first to encounter the strangers. The
Indians met us at "Valley river," a rapid stream, flowing into the Canadian a hundred yards
below. A curious scene was now presented. On one side of the stream was collected a crowd
of wild Indians, apparently in great excitement ; and on the other, our own party ; each igno-
rant of the others and their designs. The Indians were evidently prepared for battle; decked
out in their gayest attire, mounted on spirited horses ; holding bows in their hands, and arrows
between their fingers. As we advanced, Vincente thought proper to place a white handkerchief
at the end of a ramrod, and wave it as a signal. Upon sight of the banner the Indians set up a
shout, and rode rapidly to meet us. They called themselves Kai-d-was, and professed friendship.
They looked splendidly as they rode from point to point ; their horses prancing, and their gay
silver trappings glittering in the sun. The old fellow who appeared to be the chief, or probably
medicine man, was on foot and almost naked. He begged to ride in the carretela ; and, by the
aid of Vincente, informed us that as friends we ought to encamp at the village, and hold a council
with them. The road beyond he represented as being exceedingly bad ; and said that a long
succession of sand-hills for two days' journey would compel us to cross the river at this place.
Thus accompanied by our new friends, we drove to the village, where, among a heterogeneous
mass of old men, women, and children, were two Mexicans endeavoring to trade flour, biscuits,
and sugar for buffalo robes and horses. They confirmed the Indian statement that there was
no other place so good as this for an encampment, and that we would here be obliged to cross
the river. They added that they were defenceless, with only three peons accompanying them ;
and, the Indians having robbed them of nearly all their goods, they wished to accompany us
towards New Mexico.

The village contained about a dozen large conical tents, and as many wigwams. The tent-
frames were of well-made poles, fifteen to twenty feet long, interlaced at the top, and inter-
secting the ground in a circle ten to fifteen feet in diameter. The whole were covered with
buffalo robes, beautifully dressed, painted with curious figures, and carefully spread with the
hair inside. To our surprise, we saw a good looking blue-eyed boy of three years old, and
found that his mother was a Mexican captive. She said that her name was Jose Maria ; that
she was from Eio de Naces; had been captured by the Comanches when she was twenty, and
had lived with them seven years. Her beautiful boy is the son of the chief ; but she wishes to
leave her hard masters and accompany us, in the hope of again reaching her home. She was
watched, and dared speak but little with us. There are other captains; one a man by the name
of Andres Nunares, from Chihuahua ; he has been a prisoner five years. On a pole in the centre
of the village hung two scalps, sacredly guarded by an old woman, who made much ado if any
one attempted to approach them.

We pitched camp on a slight eminence overlooking the village, and could not but admire
their selection of ground. Valley river and the Canadian are at this point fringed with timber,
and the wide meadows are covered with a thick carpet of grass. Scarcely were the ten is
pitched when the Kai-d-was began to assemble for the counsel. A wilder-looking set can scarcely
be imagined. Cunning, duplicity, and treachery, seemed stamped upon every lineamenl of
their features. Men, women, and children — all, e> cept the chiefs — were wrapped in line blue
blankets, which they said had been given them by their good father, the while-haired man
whom they had met on the northern trail. They said that he had told them that the Ameri-
cans would continue to make presents to them so long as they behaved well. This they had

32

KAIOWA DRESS AND ORNAMENTS. — COUNCIL.

apparently construed into a claim to receive tribute from every party of whites they might
meet. C6-tat-sin, (Caballo Alazan,) the great chief of the Kai-o-was, is said to he upon a
buffalo-hunt north. Some, who appeared to be sub-chiefs, with faces painted yellow, had
colored the tops of their heads, where the long black hair was parted, with vermilion. Their
noses were long and aquiline, chins beardless, and eyes small, bright, and sparkling. Their
foreheads were retreating, and their cheek-bones high and ugly. They carried superb bows of
bois d'arc, ornamented with brass nails, silver plates, and wampum beads. The arrows were
about twenty-eight inches in length, with steel points and tinted feather trimmings. The
quiver and belt, of wolfskin, were wrought with beads. They wore moccasins and buckskin
leggins, covered with wampum and bead-work, and fastened with silver buckles. From the
crown of their heads was suspended a queue of horse-hair, reaching nearly to the ground, orna-
mented with ten circular plates of silver, from one to three inches in diameter, and terminated
by a silver crescent and wampum. They wore no pendants from the nose, but in their ears
were brass rings, from which hung chains and bugle-beads of bone or iridescent shells, reach-
ing far down upon the shoulders. Similar ornaments were worn around the neck. All had
bracelets of brass- wire or silver bands. One of the chiefs had suspended from his neck a large
silver cross, weighing half a pound or more, curiously wrought, and terminated with a cres-
cent ; a trophy, probably, from some Mexican church. Hanging upon a post in the village
was a still more elaborate head-dress. It consisted of a cap, richly embroidered with wam-
pum, with a pendant eight feet long trailing behind, ornamented with a row of scarlet-
dyed goose quills, which, when worn, stand perpendicularly from the body. We tried to
purchase some of these fine things ; but the Indians said that they loved their ornaments,
and could not part with them. Truly, in our whole train we had nothing to vie with them
in magnificence to tempt an exchange. At length, the chiefs were invited to be seated in
what they deemed the grand council. A pipe was passed around from hand to hand, and it
was noticed that the first puff of each was directed towards the sun. The old chief then spoke.
He said that at a short distance were two other camps, where immense numbers of Kai-6-was
were congregated. He boasted of their general good conduct towards Americans; claimed
particular friendship with us, and closed by asking, distinctly, for the reward which he said
the good Indian agent had promised them. We replied, that our Great Chief at Washing-
ton had sent us a long journey, through many Indian tribes, and had given us merely a few
presents, to indicate, to the good people we might meet, his approbation, and that if they
continued friendly to small parties of emigrants, government would protect and assist them.
A red blanket, some beads and tobacco, were then given to each of the five chiefs. They
looked disdainfully at the gifts, and said that the good white-haired father had led them
to expect at least a blanket for each individual of the band, besides calico for the women and
children, and that on these terms only could they be friends to Americans. They were told
that the government gave free gifts only, and nothing upon compulsion ; to return their
presents if they were dissatisfied, and we would try what effect powder and ball would have
towards preserving peace. Besides, we had another account to settle with them regarding cer-
tain Mexican captives, whom we wished to restore to their friends. This unexpected demand
upon our part created great commotion. The old chief seemed almost convulsed with anger.
The placid expression of his countenance was changed to one of black malignity. He said it
was not the part of a friend to come among them and separate wives and children from hus-
bands and fathers. We told him that none would be taken except such as wished to go. After a
while he agreed that, if they wanted to accompany us, and we would give him a "heap of
things," he would consent. But he begged that at least we would give them something to eat,
as they were hungry. As the storm was lu led, and the fear of aggression was evidently upon
their side, we thought we could afford to Le generous, and gave them a cow for beef. Good
humor was at once restored, and they proposed to kill the cow, as if she were a wild buffalo ;
so mounting their horses, and goading the animal into madness, they pursued and pierced her
with arrows until she fell exhausted.

ENCAMPMENT BROKEN UP. — CANADIAN VALLEY.

33

During the commotion in the tent Vincente was greatly frightened. He disliked their
smoking to the sun, and said "they were had men to do that ; they were sorcerers, and were
casting a spell to do us harm." Nothing could shake the hoy's "belief in the witchcraft he had
seen practised among the Comanches. Desiring to learn more of the captives before taking
any action upon their affairs, we sought Andres and took him to a tent. He had no special
complaint to make against the Indians. He declined to go with us himself, heing unwilling
to sacrifice the property that he possessed. He was owner of twelve mules, hroken to the
saddle, and an unknown numher of wild mares and colts. The captive woman, he said, would
join us at our next camp, provided we would furnish a hridle-hit to guide her horse. He said
that this would be more agreeahle to them than to he taken hy force. The bit was accordingly
loaned for the service. He was asked why the Kai-o-was smoked to the sun. He said it was to
their god, whom they thus worshipped to invoke his hlessing. When we had obtained from
him a vocabulary of the Kai-d-wa language, and given him some presents, he went away. It
was now night, and he ran to the village leaping, shouting, and whooping like a full-blooded
savage. At the same time the yelling of the Indians, and the plashing of their horses in the
water, made known to us that a party was crossing the Canadian — for what purpose we could
not conceive. After this, there was moderate quiet till morning.

September 10 — Camp 40. — The Indian chief was in camp soon after dayhreak, with an excuse
for not sending the Mexicans with us. He led hy the hand his blue-eyed hoy, and begged a
present for him. He thought, doubtless, that by showing a little paternal affection he might
be saved from a separation. The mother soon followed — riding up to the tent on a vicious
looking pony, with a thong for a bridle, and two strings for stirrups. The old chief seemed
vexed at her coming, she being his third and favorite wife, and probably ordered her back, for
she quickly left, scarcely speaking a word. The child soon followed. The woman looked very
sad, and seemed to supplicate for freedom. While discussing the matter with Lieutenant Jones,
one of the Mexican traders reported that the Indians had robbed him of several articles. Tbe
chief was directed to see them restored. He went to the village as if to obey; and, almost
instantaneously their skins were packed, the lodge-poles tied to the sides of horses, and the whole
party mounted, ready for a start. Secure in the fleetness of their horses, with their captives
guarded, they quietly waited for our departure.

Taking the advice of the Mexicans, we crossed the Canadian — here a quarter of a mile wide,
two or three feet deep, and full of quicksands. The difficulties encountered in this operation
nearly banished the Indians from our thoughts. They entered the wood, probably to ascend
Valley river, and join a party that the traders had seen in that direction. Following the north
bank of the river two or three miles, and seeing no obstacle upon the southern side, we re-crossed
and travelled fifteen miles to camp. We have passed many ravines, which are water-courses
tributary to the Canadian. The one at the mouth of which we are encamped, called Spring
creek, contains a rivulet of pure water, flowing beneath a grove of alamos. The valley
abounds in grapes, which are sweeter, perhaps because riper, than those gathered below. Had
they been cultivated, they could hardly have been produced in greater profusion.

Jose Garcia, the Mexican trader who has joined our party, says that the Kai-o-was are a
numerous tribe, scarcely inferior to Comanches, with whom they have a perpetual alliance. He
tells us that both by Mexicans and Indians Red river is called "Rio Palo Duro ;" Washita, "Rio
Negro;" and the Canadian, "Rio Colorado." This confusion of names is doubtless one cause
of the mistake of Baron Humboldt and Colonel Long in taking the headwaters of the Canadian
for the source of Red river.

September 11 — Camp 41. — We continued up the valley of the Canadian, which increases in
width, receiving many wooded tributaries from the south. At noon we saw upon the opposite
side of the river the adobe ruins of what the Mexicans call an American fort or trading-house.
There, many years ago, whiskey was sold to the Indians, who, in a fit of in( ixication, mur-
dered the occupants and set fire to the establishment. It was a large building, finely Bituated
5 h

34

PUEBLO INDIANS. — DESERTED COMANCHE LODGES.

in a grove of trees, and containing a spring of water within the court. An acequia from the
river insured the garden in front from the ill effects of a dry season. The place is now deso-
late, its only use heing to designate a ford. At the next large valley from the south two
Indians were seen ; the Mexicans pursued, hut could not overtake them. Passing through a
little range of sand-hills, we crossed the hed of Bluff creek near its mouth. Upon the north
hank of the Canadian a hluff of the Llano hung over the valley, with gullies cut in its deep red
soil. In the bottoms below were groves of timber, streams, and meadows, presenting a pleasant
landscape. Looking behind, a huge column of smoke was seen rising; and it was noticed that
the surveying party, with the carretela, was not in sight. With great anxiety we were about
to return, when they appeared, around a point of hills, approaching us. Indians were at the
same time seen reconnoitring from distant heights, but they did not come near. Having
travelled nineteen miles along the smooth valley of the Canadian, we made camp where a low
ridge of hills from the south impinged upon the river. These are from fifty to a hundred yards
in width, and it is the first place since entering the valley which would require the labor of a
deep cut for a railroad.

September 12 — Camp 42. — Seeing several Indians in the Mexican camp, we sent to inquire
who they were. They returned with the messengers, to speak for themselves. They were
Pueblo Indians from Santo Domingo, with flour and bread, to barter with the Kai-6-was and
Comanches for buffalo robes and horses. They were mounted on mules, wrapped in serapes, or
Mexican blankets, and wore head-dresses, beads, and other Indian ornaments. There were six
or eight of their party scattered over the prairie in search of Comanches. Thus far they had
been unsuccessful, the majority of the wild tribes not having returned from their northern
hunting tour.

Leaving camp, the valley of the river appeared wider as we ascended, and wooded ravines
came down from the hills to unite with it. The sand-hills encountered yesterday have disap-
peared. We are now upon the upper new red sandstone, and many remnants of "mesas"
appear, capped with dolomite. Here are good materials for masonry. At 10 a. m. we crossed
Moale creek, flowing beneath a border of trees to the Canadian. Gypsum crops out from the
red marl of the cliffs. Salt springs and efflorescent salts, supposed to be sulphates of soda,
magnesia, and lime, abound in the wide bottoms of the valley we have traversed to-day. At
noon we turned abruptly from the river, south, and followed a ravine, by the side of which we
soon ascended a high bank to the prairie. This was once a portion of the Llano Estacado; but
the upper strata have been worn and washed away, leaving the surface undulating, sometimes
hilly, and cut into ravines which form canons as they approach the Canadian. Our road was
now good, and, after travelling five miles, we found a spring where we watered the mules and
filled the canteens. We then proceeded nearly south to White Sandy creek, where, finding
abundance of water in pools, we encamped. By the survey we have travelled eighteen miles,
and ascended five hundred feet. The grass looks parched and dry ; and, since leaving the
river, scarce a tree has appeared to relieve the landscape.

September 13 — Camp 42. — The mules needing rest, we concluded to remain for the day. The
water in the creek is good ; there is enough wood in the vicinity for camp purposes ; and the
grama, though apparently dry, contains nutritious juices, being, for the animals, better than
corn. The nine Pueblo Indians and the Mexicans also remain, hoping to attract a party of
Comanches to purchase their supplies.

September 14 — Camp 43. — Took an early start, and travelled over rolling prairie, with a good
road, twenty miles to Shady creek, where we encamped. This is the first waterless jornada
encountered upon the survey. Artesian borings or common wells might probably afford a
supply at various points near our trail. The beautiful rivulet upon which we are encamped is
a flowing stream, bordered with trees, and fertilizing an extensive valley.

Our predecessors here were Comanches. The Teguas say that they left twenty days since, either
for a buffalo hunt or for war. There appear to be not less than three hundred deserted lodges ;

INDIAN ALTARS. — BUFFALO RANGE.

35

indicating a party of six hundred warriors. A thousand horses must have grazed the valley ;
and our mules would have but a scanty pittance, unless driven a mile or two down the stream.
The lodges are temporary bowers, made of branches planted in the grouild. The form is that
of a horse-shoe, and the twigs are twined at top, affording a space inside to stand or lie screened
from the sun. They appear scattered at random; but, without exception, face the north.
Beside each wigwam are the remains of a small fire. This camp ground covers several acres
upon either side of the stream.

In one place has been noticed a circular trench carefully dug with some sharp instrument ;
and, in the centre, ashes covering a space eighteen inches in diameter. The fire had been in
the centre of the circular trench, which communicated with two arms, forming, with an embank-
ment for the third side, nearly a triangle. Four sticks, about three feet high, were driven ver-
tically into the ground ; and a deep hole, perfectly cylindrical, was made by the side, six inches
in diameter, and of the same depth. Upon the opposite bank of the stream, in a shady spot
by itself, is a structure formed of saplings, oval arched, like an oven, three feet high, six feet
long, east and west, and five feet broad. It had been covered with twigs and weeds. In the
centre is a neatly made cylindrical hole, about eight inches in diameter, and six or eight inches
deep. This appears carefully covered with a flat stone — showing evidence of having been
heated — and surrounded by a circular trench. Near the western end stands a conical mound of
earth, two feet in circumference, and a foot and a half high. Towards the east is another mound,
symmetrical with the first, on which we found an Indian offering : a brass bracelet, strings of
beads, and a piece of tobacco. A few feet farther east are the remains of a fire, where stones
appear to have been heated. At a short distance a deer had been killed, and blood, by accident
or design, sprinkled upon the nearest huts. Upon a different part of the grounds, probably a
quarter of a mile distant, stands another structure, almost a fac simile of the one described.

September 15 — Camp 44. — Leaving Shady creek and its pleasant valley, we traversed a rolling
prairie eight miles to a small stream, where the mules were allowed to drink from large pools
of good water. We then proceeded over a similar country to Red Bank creek, where we again
watered and moved on ; there being no wood upon the stream. Having travelled twenty miles,
we encamped at Beautiful View creek. Water is plenty in pools, but wood scarce. The grass,
though dry, is abundant. We have again met buffalo signs. On inquiring how far west they
have been seen, a Tegua Indian stated that many years ago his father killed two at Santo
Domingo. A Mexican from San Juan de Caballeros added, that in 1835 he saw buffalo on
the Bio del Norte. Father Bscalante, in a manuscript journal of a trip from New Mexico to
the Great Salt lake, in 17*76, mentioned having seen signs of their existence on his route; still,
notwithstanding the location of the famed kingdom of Cibola by the early explorers, there do
not seem to be any well authenticated accounts of the existence of those animals west of Rio
Grande. Their range has been from the Alleghanies on the east to the Bocky mountains on the
west; and now, driven from the haunts of white men, they are pent up upon the prairies
between.

September 16 — Camp 45. — While the sun was still twenty minutes below the horizon, an
extraordinary refraction placed a crown of light in the east, of sufficient brightness to cast a
shadow. Soon after a violent wind sprang up, and continued all day from the southwest. Our
route passed two large pools of water before arriving at Bincon de la Crux, a canon of the
Llano Estacado. Here we encamped beside a spring and a natural vineyard of wild grapes.
The fruit is as large as a hazel-nut, with thin skin and deep purple juice. It could be greatly
improved by cultivation. Mr. Marcou thinks it would make an excellent wine similar to Port.

The wind went down with the sun; but rose again, somewhat to the disturbance of our
astronomical observations. We have risen to-day, in twenty miles, about 400 feet; but the
ascent has been quite uniform.

September 17 — Camp 46. — All were roused this morning for an early start l<> cross the Llano
Estacado. Not a cloud was visible ; and the moon being full, created a pretty effect of lighl

36

LLANO ESTACADO. — ROCKY DELL CBEEK.

and shade upon the distant peaks. Ascending ahout two hundred and fifty feet, in about a mile
from camp we reached the top of the Llano. Here, for the first time, we saw what one might
call an ocean prairie; so smooth, level, and boundless does it appear. It is covered with a car-
pet of closely cropped buffalo-grass, and no other green thing is to be seen. Mr. Marcou thinks
that here, as upon the prairies crossed since leaving the Canadian, artesian wells might easily
be made to afford plenty of water. Indeed, the numerous springs issuing from the sides of its
bluff edges seem to prove the fact. Having travelled eight and a half miles, we arrived at a
deep gorge with limestone cliffs, and a valley of grass and trees. In the rocky bed of the
canon were pools of water ; and we stopped to breakfast. This is Agua Piedra of the Mexi-
cans, and Simpson's Encampment creek. Los Alamitos, the spring where the Pueblo Indians
proposed to encamp last night, we have not seen. It is probably at some distance to the right
of the road. Having crossed the canon of Agua Piedra, which might be headed by a detour
south, we again rolled over the hard smooth surface of the Llano. The soil seems to be good,
and, if it were possible to irrigate it, might be cultivated. It now furnishes excellent pasture
for antelope and deer. At sunset we reached the edge of the Llano, where the road descended
to Kocky Dell creek. Here we encamped, having accomplished nearly twenty-eight miles of
survey. The wind has been increasing since noon, and this evening it blows almost a gale,
seriously impeding our astronomical observations.

CHAPTER V.

From JRocJcy Dell Creek to Anton GMco.

Cave at Rocky Dell— Pueblo Indian traders— Violent storm.— Halt creek.— Antelope— Staked Plain.— Fossil creek.— Tucumcari
creek. — Plaza Larga.— Laguna Colorada. — Arroyo de Pajarito. — Arroyo Cuerbito— Diggrng for prairie dogs. — Hurrah creek. —
Rio de Gallinas. — Sheep spring. — Anton Ohico.

September 18 — Camp 46. — Beneath a cliff which overhangs the stream of Rocky Dell is a sort
of cave, which the Indians have converted into a gallery of fine arts. The rocks forming the
floor are elahorately carved, and the walls covered with paintings. Remaining at this place
to-day io rest our animals, we have amused ourselves hy copying some of the inscriptions. The
immense number of carvings, etchings, and paintings — the newer often encroaching upon and
sometimes covering the more ancient — has produced apparent confusion. But frequently one
group can he distinguished from another which intermingles with it.

As we were making the nightly astronomical ohservations, the herders ran into camp saying
that we were surrounded hy Indians. Seizing arms, every one rushed for the mulada, the
great source of anxiety, on account of the ease with which a few Indians may create a stampede.
But, unmindful of the warlike demonstrations, our visitors came down from the hills, and
walked holdly into camp. They proved to he traders from the puehlos of New Mexico, in
search of Comanches, whom they expect to find at this season upon the Canadian.

September 19 — Camp 47. — Leaving Rocky Dell creek, we travelled several miles heneath the
"bluff which forms the northern limit of the Llano, to a pool of water among the rocks. After
proceeding some distance farther, we encamped at Canada de Truxillo, near Halt creek ; hav-
ing accomplished twenty-three miles. We passed water at a pond three miles, and at Emigrant
creek — called hy the Mexicans Rincon de las Mujeres — nine miles west of camp ; also at a
hranch one mile east of this place. The region traversed has heen slightly undulating, and
sometimes sandy. The Llano Estacado, upon our left, frequently jutted nearly to the road,
then receding several miles. It is prohahle that most of these recessions contain ravines of
water ; which, sinking into the sandy soil, appears only in pools, at the crossing of the road.
Wood has hecome scarce, there heing hardly enough for camp-fires. Little has been seen
except at Emigrant creek, where was a horder of alamos. The day has been cooler than any
preceding, rendered so hy a dense mist that partially obscured the sun. Since night this has
cleared away, and stars have presented themselves for the usual ohservations, though the wind
has rendered the astronomical results somewhat uncertain.

September 20 — Camp 48. — At about two o'clock this morning, camp was disturbed by a vio-
lent storm of wind and rain, which laid most of the tents prostrate. The rest were preserved
only by the vigorous exertions of the occupants, regardless of bare feet and scanty attire. Such
a sudden turning out of sleepers into the driving tempest produced a scene that was laughable
in spite of our misery. There was no more sleep. At daybreak the storm subsided, and at
sunrise ceased. The fall of rain was about an inch and a half. The wind shifted during the
night from south to north, from which point it blew with violence. The thermometer, how-
ever, fell little below 50° Fahrenheit.

It was nine o'clock before we could re-commence our journey. The road traversed a region
similar to that seen yesterday — sandy, and nearly level, sometimes intersected by a ravine con

38

ANTELOPE. — FOSSILS. — TUCUMCARI CREEK.

taining pools of muddy water. Halt creek, which the Mexicans call Arroyo de Barrancas, was
the only flowing stream passed. Here the water, deeply tinctured with red marl, was ahout
two feet deep and six feet wide. The Llano, still presenting salient points to within a mile or
two of the road, is now capped with a higher plateau ; and the detritus Drought down by
flooded creeks furnishes several varieties of cretaceous fossils. Hoping to reach Fossil creek, we
travelled till after sunset, passing several sluggish streams. At length it became too dark to
read the surveying instruments, and we were obliged to encamp near pools of muddy water.
Upon the arroyo below have been found clumps of trees, pure water, and a pretty valley cov-
ered with excellent buffalo-grass. Antelope have been seen in considerable numbers every
day since we ascended the Llano. To-day they have been unusually numerous. They graze
upon the prairies in herds varying in number, usually from six to twenty. Upon sight of the
train of canvass-covered wagons they lift their heads and gaze a moment as if in astonishment.
Their next impulse is to collect in a body and run towards it, stopping to satisfy their curiosity
at a distance of about three hundred yards. But they quickly detect a hunter approaching
them, and then fly with great rapidity. They are fleet enough to defy pursuit, and we have
not yet been able to secure a specimen. The cunning little prairie dogs that greet our entrance
to their villages in a manner quite sociable and amusing, have also been quite difficult to obtain.
Two, however, have been killed to-day. The collection of lizards, horned frogs, and snakes is
quite numerous and interesting, new varieties of them being obtained daily.

Fossils of the cretaceous or jurassic formation were found in the creeks crossed to-day. The
bluff edge of the Llano, here curving far towards the south, seems to turn and pass behind the
Tucumcari hills, which appear about twenty miles westward from camp. These probably belong
to the same formation, capped with an additional stratum. The northern slopes of the Llano, for
about 150 feet above the basin which it encloses, are covered with a dense forest of cedars. Not
a tree is elsewhere to be seen, except a dwarfish growth upon the sides of ravines. It seems
that the prevalent southwest winds prevent the growth of trees upon the prairie. The naked-
ness of the Staked Plain is undoubtedly due, in part, to this cause. The want of water there
and annual fires may contribute to the result. The belt of cedars upon the bluff will afford a
large amount of good fuel. The trees seldom decay in this climate, but in diying become hard
and durable. Clouds this evening prevented astronomical observations.

September 21 — Camp 49. — The equinoctial storm is apparently near its close, though the
atmosphere is still murky and raw. About three miles after leaving camp we crossed another
arroyo containing water; and three miles beyond brought us to Fossil creek. In its bed were
astrea similar to those collected yesterday. The soil is red sandy marl, retaining sufficient
moisture to produce abundant grama, and preserve its greenness, though it is near the end of
the dry season. The wide basin which extends upon our left to the border of the Llano is sus-
ceptible of cultivation. Should more water be required than what issues in springs and rivu-
lets from its edge, wells could be dug, or a perpetual flow, probably, be obtained by artesian
borings. We are four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the climate is said to be as
healthy and pleasant as can anywhere be found. Four miles west of Fossil creek was a flowing
stream, five feet in width and six inches deep, with grass and a few low branching trees upon
its banks. In the valley above appeared quite a grove. Proceeding we crossed first a branch,
and seven miles above, the main stream of Tucumcari. Following the broad valley, which the
Mexicans call Plaza Larga, we encamped in a beautiful spot three miles above the crossing.
Here we met a Mexican bound for Comanche land to trade. He says there are fifteen of his
party with flour, hard bread, and tobacco, who have come out to meet the Kiowas and Coman-
ches on their return from the buffalo hunt. We had no previous idea of the extent of this
Indian trade, or of the impunity with which defenceless traders could mingle with these savage
and treacherous tribes upon their own soil. We are now near the spot where Captain Marcy
first met Comanches in 1849. The Mexican says that they formerly ranged this far ; but that
now, rancheros of new Mexico sometimes send out large flocks of sheep, which graze securely in

PLAZA LARGA. ARROYO DE PAJARITO.

39

the valley of the stream where we are encamped. The inference seems to he that year hy year
the wild Indians, like the huffalo, range over less space, and are gradually dwindling away.

Dr. Bigelow, this morning, rode over to the Muff, and ascended the escarped slope to the
mesa of the Staked Plain, and was well repaid for his trouble. It was disintegrated and worn
away into well defined terraces, reaching from the prairie valley to the summit; giving foothold
and nourishment to a forest of small cedars and pinons. His herbarium was literally crammed
with plants and flowers, many of unknown species. The rock was, as previously described,
200 feet lias, overlaid by the same thickness of cretaceous formation, with sandstone and lime-
stone containing fossil shells.

Plaza Larga is famous in New Mexico for beautiful scenery, fertile soil, and charming climate.
It extends from among the Tucumcari hills apparently to the Canadian ; and, should this route
be selected for a railway, offers every facility for a large settlement. Indeed, in a few years it
may become the centre of a flourishing State. The sun has once more set in a clear and tran-
quil sky, an agreeable contrast to so many days of harassing storm and wind. There is a pros-
pect for a good set of astronomical observations.

September 22 — Camp 50. — A short distance from camp we encountered other parties of
Mexicans and Indians, one numbering twenty-two persons, en route for the Comanche country.
They report trouble at La Mesilla. General Trias is said to be there with troops, and Santa
Anna expected with 5,000 men. The latter part is doubtless fiction; but the possibility of
a collision with Mexico creates excitement among our party, and a desire to get nearer to
the scene of action.

We continued up the valley of Tucumcari, which soon became a ravine, bounded on either
side by the variegated bluffs of the Llano. Eed marl, yellow and white sandstone, with cliffs
of white limestone, contrast with the dark foliage of cedars occurring upon the slopes and filling
every chasm. Occasionally, along the valley, we passed a rocky hill or mound which denudation
had not yet removed. One isolated hill, detached from the Llano, stood nearly in our path, and,
from its peculiar shape, was named the Pyramid. One side was nearly perpendicular, and all
the strata of the Staked Plain were laid bare. Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Marcou, Mr. Sherburne, and
others, prepared to mount to its summit while the train moved on. Following the valley, which
is at first contracted by salient angles of the hills to a mile in width, and then opens to a junc-
tion with another stream, an almost imperceptible ascent led to Laguna Colorada, about nine-
teen miles distant from, and 350 feet higher than, the last camp. The Laguna is a pond of
muddy water, which appears to be the head of a stream flowing in a northerly course towards
the Canadian.

Those who ascended the Pyramid have arrived in camp delighted with their trip. The
height by barometer above the valley was 500 feet. It appeared to tower slightly above the
unbroken Llano towards the south. Mr. Marcou discovered two species of fossil oyster-shells,
one remarkably long, and probably new. A sketch was made, to show the stratification. The
Doctor was less fortunate in making collections there, but at camp he found a new opuntia.
The head of a buck antelope was added to our naturalist's collection. The wind is still from
the southwest, and has interfered to-night with our astronomical observations.

September 23 — Camp 51. — Set out at 1^ a. m. ; the morning calm and beautiful. The road
ran along the southern base of a red sandstone bluff, worn into curious shapes resembling mon-
uments, vases, and caves. This rock might easily be quarried, and would answer for building
material. The sandstone and limestone of the Llano, however, would be harder and more dura-
ble. A short distance above appeared a forest of scrub cedars. We crossed the spur of a hill,
which, by a detour to the right, might have been avoided, and entered a prairie interspersed
with dwarfed cedars, cacti, yuccas, and mezquites. From the spur was a fine view westward
over mesa hills, to a blue sierra, said to belong to the Kocky mountains. Descending the hill,
a rough and rocky road brought us to Arroyo de Pajarito. Here, eight miles from (lie last
camp, was a large basin,- nearly enclosed by hills, with good soil, water, grass, and tall reeds,

40

PRAIRIE DOGS. — HURRAH CREEK. — INDIAN RELICS.

which, mules are fond of. Passing this stream, and crossing a gently ascending ridge, we found
a. spring of good water, and plenty of huffalo-grass. Though the dense growth of cedars
approaching from the hills completed the requisites for a camp, we proceeded three miles far-
ther to Arroyo Cuerhito, and encamped, on hrackish water, two miles from the woodlands.

A dog town heing near, we selected a hole with freshest signs, determined to dig out the
inmates ; hut the soil was so hard that we could make hut little progress in excavating. We
attempted, therefore, to explore its depths with long, pliant poles. The hole appeared to he
ahout five inches in diameter, raised, moulded, and hardened with lime at the orifice. It was
sunk spirally, at an angle of forty-five degrees for five feet, and then, with a sharp turn,
entered a chamber four feet deep, communicating with cells or galleries. Into this hole, which
which was coated with a white substance like a cement of lime, we poured six buckets of water.
At first the surface of water was visible, but in about two minutes it disappeared, and our labor
was vain. Neither the rattle of a snake, the hoot of an owl, nor the chirrup of a dog, gave
token of life within. Nothing but a swarm of crickets seemed to have been disturbed.

September 24 — Gamp 52. — A great commotion was heard last night among the prairie-dogs.
They doubtless thought that we had opened a regular siege; for on visiting the trench this
morning, it was found that they had, during the night, repaired the breach, and stopped up
the hole so as to cut off all communication by that entrance.

The morning was cool; the thermometer, at sunrise, standing at 43°. By an unusually
steep ascent, we climbed a long, low ridge of hills to the crest of the summit dividing the waters
of the Canadian from those of the Pecos. We were then nearly on a level with the top of the
Llano, which appeared a mile or two to the left. Our observations showed that we were
about eleven hundred feet above that part of it which we crossed a hundred miles back, east of
Eocky Dell creek ; but the rise from that point had been so gradual, that, without such proof,
we would have seemed to be upon the same level. Over these plains antelope have been nu-
merous, and the hunters fortunate — killing several. The artist took a sketch of a fine large
male, and the skin was preserved as a specimen. The first herd we saw to-day numbered about
thirty. Passing a pond of water bordered with green grass, we proceeded to l'Assisteros, thir-
teen miles, and encamped. This is the first affluent to the Pecos, and is styled by Simpson
Hurrah creek. It flows through a fine valley of buffalo-grass, that appears to be now in its
most perfect state. It is quite a rapid stream, eight feet wide, with cool, pure water. We
camped at one o'clock, though there was no wood in sight, for the mules needed rest.

Near camp is a hill of sandstone, with masses broken into singular forms strewn upon the
sides and at the foot. Among them are enclosures, and slight walls have perfected the seem-
ing intention of nature — rendering the place quite a fortress. I believe that the New Mexican
shepherds secure themselves and their sheep here from Indians and from wolves. The sand-
stone is the same as that at Rocky Dell creek, where were found such numbers of hieroglyphics ;
but we have sought in vain for similar representations. Weeks and months must have been
idly spent among them by Mexicans and Pueblo Indians, and yet upon the whole field of rocks
— their shelter from sun by day and from wind at night — there is not even the scratch of a
knife or the trace of a coal. There were evidently special reasons for their labors at Rocky Dell
creek. From Rio del Norte westward, between latitudes 32° and 33°, at almost every spring,
and along the Gila to its junction with the Salinas, are found painted pieces of ancient pottery,
metates,* and obsidian arrow-heads. But on the Canadian and its tributaries, on the Washita,
and over the whole route to this point, such things have been searched for in vain. Not the
semblance of a stone arrow-head has been seen upon the trip. A rude stone axe found at Co-
manche camp, on Rio Bonito, is the only evidence we have of utensils of that material having
been used east of the Pecos, and that was too rough to be considered the work of design. Hence
there seems no reason to believe that this part of the continent has ever been in the possession
of semi-enlightened tribes such as existed west of Rio del Norte.

* A hollow stone, in which corn is ground.

BOTANICAL EXCURSION. ANTON CHICO.

41

September 25 — Gamp 52. — Our cattle becoming foot-sore and weary, to avoid leaving many
of them behind, we determined not to move camp to-day, but allow them to rest. Dr. Bigelow
immediately set out upon a botanical excursion. About four miles southwest he struck the
bend of a river, probably the Gallinas, flowing in a canon cut almost perpendicularly through
the plain to a depth of about 500 feet. Following it down, he found cactaceae and other in-
teresting plants so numerous, that the time was beguiled away, and night came upon him una-
wares. We became alarmed for his safety, kindled signal-fires upon the hill, and discharged
guns to direct him in the darkness towards camp. Finally a party went out to search, and met
him on his return weary almost to fainting, with the weight of his herbarium. Numbers of fat
antelope were killed to-day.

September 26 — Anton Chico. — Took an early start ; watching, as we went along, the varying
tints of approaching day, so beautiful in this climate. A mile from camp we crossed the sand-
stone bed of the second branch of Hurrah creek, where there was water in pools. Commencing
the ascent of a prairie ridge, we rose gradually, in three miles, about 400 feet, when we found
ourselves upon the limestone surface of an extensive plain. For a mile or more the road was
smooth, and then succeeded rolling prairie, beyond which was a forest of dwarf cedars. Fif-
teen miles of survey brought us to the Rio de G-allinas, a creek with pure running water, but
with neither wood nor grass upon its banks. Passing over an undulating country, we reached
the crest of a hill overlooking the Pecos at Anton Chico. An easy descent led to the valley,
where we found a good crossing of the river, and proceeded to town. After leaving Eio de G-al-
linas, several pools of water appeared by the roadside, and one spring, "a las chupainas,"
(sheep spring); which waters a fertile basin five miles back, where the train was left to encamp
to-night. Large flocks of sheep and many horses were grazing there as we passed by.

Anton Chico contains about five hundred inhabitants. The principal part of the town stands
upon the west bank of the river, upon the first rise of ground above the irrigated fields. The
valley is well cultivated and productive. Behind the town rise bluffs of high table-lands. The
houses, as is usual in New Mexico, are built of adobes,* and are singularly festooned in front
by strings of red peppers — the much prized " chili Colorado" — intended less for ornament than
use. Our entrance was greeted by wolfish-looking dogs — which, by-the-by, are celebrated for
sagacity in guarding sheep — and a large number of children ; the latter dressed in loose cotton
robes, generally torn from the feet to the very neck, and gracefully flowing behind. Having
no other covering, they looked cool, if not comfortable. Our object was to purchase corn, and
obtain from the people information regarding the country westward. No old corn was to be had,
but thousands of bushels of this year's growth were to be purchased at two dollars per fanega.f
As this would be apt to injure grass-fed mules, we thought best to confine them to husks. Few
of the people have travelled the road to Rio Abajo (Albuquerque), and we could gain little sat-
isfaction upon that point. There are two traders residing here; one English, the other Amer-
ican. The alcalde civilly conducted us to the latter, Mr. Kitchen, who entertained us with great
hospitality at his mansion.

* The adobe is made of an argillaceous earth, which is softened with water, and sometimes mixed Vith straw, and fragments
of shells, or pebbles. It is pressed in a mould eighteen inches long, a foot wide, and six inches thick; and then turned out and
dried in the sun. In building walls, the adobes are cemented together by a mortar made of clay.

t A trifle more than two and a half bushels.

6 h

CHAPTER VI.

From Anton Chico to Albuquerque.

Pecos valley. — Sudden freshet. — Division of party. — Agua Negra. — La Cuesta. — Canon Blanco. — La Laguna. — Town and river of
Galisteo. — Los Cerritos. — Cienega. — Pena Blanca. — San Domingo. — Indian hospitality. — San Felipe. — Bernardillo. — Pueblo
de Zaudia. — Albuquerque.

September 27 — Anton Chico. — At 10 a. m. the train arrived, and camp was pitched near the
village. Explorations were then made in the vicinity. The general surface of the country
seems to have been, originally, an elevated tahle-land. Through this has heen worn a deep
chasm with bluff hanks, which, ahove the town, rise directly from the river, and form a narrow
canon. As we descend the stream the hluffs recede, leaving a strip of valley and the fertile
basin in which Anton Chico is situated.

September 28 — Anton Chico. — Our cattle drivers yesterday took the wrong road from Sheep
springs, and travelled towards Las Vegas. We sent after them, and late last night they arrived,
after a drive of forty miles. To-day the animals are foot-sore and unable to proceed.

For the purpose of exploring two routes from here to Kio Grande it was proposed to divide
the party, one portion to go immediately to La Cuesta, leaving Mr. Campbell to complete the
examinations here, and then continue the survey towards Albuquerque. We sent for our
mules, which were grazing upon excellent pasture east of the Pecos. The messenger returned
reporting that a sudden flood of water had burst through the canon, and swollen the river to
such depth and velocity as to render it impossible to cross. It was nowhere fordable, and
animals could not stem such a current by swimming. We have thus lost a day. At sunset,
however, the water subsided, and the herd was safely driven to camp. Such freshets are
frequent upon the Pecos ; occasioned, probably, by rains among the mountains near its source.
A whole family of emigrants, in attempting to cross, a short time since, were overtaken by a
similar torrent and drowned.

September 29. — The party was to-day divided ; the main portion proceeding with the survey
direct to Albuquerque, while Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Marcou, Mr. Mbllhausen, and Mr. Sherburne
accompanied me to make certain detours north of that line. Following the road we ascended
the bluff bank before referred to, and in less than seven miles rose six hundred feet. Upon our
left was a rocky ravine, which probably canoned near the mouth, preventing the road from
following it. At Agua Negra, on the Pecos, thirty miles south, there is a new settlement,
where the crossing of the river is said to be excellent. The idea that a railroad might pass
that way was one great inducement for the establishment of the village. But it is so distant
from the route we have thus far adopted, that it must be left for future examination. From the
summit of the bluff our course led over a somewhat hilly prairie to the entrance of Canon
Blanco. We found that we had passed the trail leading to La Cuesta, which it was our inten-
tion to visit, and therefore turned back, taking a path which seemed to pursue a northeasterly
direction towards that place. It was not a wagon road, though a few Mexican carts might
have passed over it, and proved to be rocky and rough. The general surface, however, was
level till we reached the edge of the bank overlooking the river and the town. The descent
then, even by the road, was so precipitous that we were obliged to encamp at the top. The
view from this point was singular and beautiful. A cultivated valley, about a mile wide, was
enclosed between bluffs five hundred feet in height. The town, with its plaza and church, rested

LA CUESTA. — CANON BLANCO. — LA LAGUNA.

43

at the foot of the opposite cliff, and the tortuous river, with a horder of trees, wound through
rich meadows and fields of ripe corn. A sketch was taken by the artist, while some of us
descended, sliding down on foot, at every turn catching at the rocks and hushes for support.
The barometer escaped many dangers, and was read at the bottom, indicating, as stated, five
hundred feet descent. As we entered the valley a loud clamor was heard from the nearest
rancheros, and we found that the villagers had taken us for a hand of Comanches ; for this
solitary spot is seldom disturbed from without except by those unwelcome visitors. When their
apprehensions were quieted, and they found us to be Americans, they displayed a singular mix-
ture of rudeness and civility, for they saw we were few in number and unarmed. They insisted
upon our accompanying them to a ball in the village, but at the same time were heard
talking to each other of the "Gringos,"* and joking regarding the outrages that had lately
been committed by their friends upon Americans in Santa Fe. At length they carried their
impertinence to such a pitch that a demonstration was made by our party which showed the
villagers that we had the will to chastise any further displays of it. They immediately apolo-
gized, and afterwards treated us with respect.

Having bargained for ojas, (fodder for mules,) we separated ; some to examine the neighbor-
hood and admire the fine fields irrigated by acequias, others to clamber among the rocks for
specimens of minerals and flowers. Many large crosses were noticed erected in the fields,
probably marking the scenes of Indian massacres. At one of the ranchos was witnessed the
operation of making syrup from cornstalks. The machinery was perfectly rude. A hollow
log six feet long was placed on end to receive the broken stalks. Below was a grooved plank
to lead the expressed fluid to a trough. Upon the stalks was placed a circular block of wood,
and above a stick, upon which rested the trunk of a large pine tree, forming a lever for the
press. The end of the tree nearest the tub was confined to a post by a pivot, and upon the
other end were mounted the men and boys of the neighborhood, whose weight served as a living
force to crush the stalks and separate the sap, which was afterwards boiled to the consistency
of molasses.

September 30. — The mules having had plenty to eat during the night, we were enabled to
leave camp at daybreak. Many Mexicans visited us even at that early hour, and were remark-
ably polite and communicative, not having forgotten the lesson we gave them. La Cuesta lies
about two miles north of the main road, which we followed yesterday. This country having
been so well delineated by Simpson and Abert, it seemed unnecessary to divide the astronomi-
cal instruments. We therefore left them with the train, trusting to the odometer, compass,
and barometer to fix our points. From La Cuesta to Canon Blanco the country is moderately
level, and rather sparsely covered with small cedars and pines. The camp fires of the main
party were found at the entrance to the canon, where small pools of water had been discovered.
The train had passed on before our arrival ; proceeding through the gorge, and thence to La
Laguna, where we overtook it and encamped.

This little lake is in a slight depression of the prairie near the summit dividing the waters
of the Bio Grande from the Pecos. It affords sufficient water for trains, and for the flocks and
herds grazing in the vicinity. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail for two months.
A properly constructed tank at this place would receive a sufficient quantity of rain to render
it a permanent reservoir.

As we approached La Laguna this evening, a storm sprang up on the Zandia; and, notwith-
standing a strong easterly wind, soon enveloped us. The thermometer went down to 45°
Fahrenheit, and the rain fell in large drops, mingled with hail. The poor mules, loosed from
the harness, cowered before it. In two hours the shower had passed, but clouds, fog and wind
remained the whole night. The sentinel and mules were sent to a thicket of cedars about a
mile from camp for shelter. Eight thousand sheep passed here yesterday from Albuquerque,

* Gringos : a Mexican term of contempt.

44

GALISTEO. — LOS CEERITOS.

to graze somewhere in the neighhorhood during the winter, from which it may he inferred that
a moderate climate, with little snow, characterizes this region.

October 1. — Our party was again divided ; one portion carrying on the survey direct to Albu-
querque, while another proceeded to make examinations towards Galisteo.

For two or three miles the latter route passed over an undulating country, and then led to a
ravine, which conducted us for several miles in a straight course, along a descent inappreciable
to the eye. An adobe house indicated permanent water near, and the name " Canon Co-
manche" suggested a reason why the building was tenantless. Passing three trifling spurs, we
traversed pleasant valleys among mesa heights to the head of a branch of Rio Galisteo. The
stream at this place threads a narrow gorge, the road passing over a small rocky ridge fifty
feet high. Descending, we crossed the brook, a few feet wide, and followed its bank. Accord-
ing to the Mexicans, it is five leagues fiom the crossing to Galisteo. Pursuing the valley three
or four miles beyond, another branch coming from the left united with the former, making a
good-sized stream, but so sluggish that its current was scarcely perceptible. At the junction
of the creeks the country spreads out into extensive prairies, nearly enclosed by distant hills.
We now saw the Gold mountains, west; the Santa Fe mountains, north; and towards the
northwest the distant range of the Jemez mountains heyond Rio del Norte. Continuing along
the wide valley, we came to a much larger affluent which was called Arroyo de la Xara, coming
from the northeast. The distance between its bluff banks was from one hundred to one hun-
dred and fifty feet, and a wide open valley seemed to extend uninterruptedly in a westerly
course to the Rio del Norte. The lofty mountains beyond that river now stood in bold relief
before us, not a hill intervening. Crossing a little ridge, we came in sight of a lake, beyond
which were the brown adobe walls and white church gable of the village of Galisteo. The true
Rio de Galisteo, proceeding from the north, washes the foot of the town, and soon after unites
with Arroyo de la Xara on its course to the del Norte. We encamped near the plaza, and were
soon after visited by Major Weightman and Judge Baird, direct from Albuquerque, on their
way to the county court at San Miguel.

The country traversed to-day appeared to be an extensive plain ; hut by barometric observa-
tions, we find ourselves seven hundred feet below La Laguna. The distance is estimated at
twenty- eight miles. Grass and water were abundant, but there was scarcely a tree to be seen
along the road. Judge Baird says, that in the canon from San Antonio to Albuquerque,
through which he has just passed, there are beds of good coal. Timber is abundant upon the
mountains.

The long storm which commenced on our arrival at Anton Chico has entirely passed away.
The evening is calm and mild, the sky cloudless, and, as usual in this climate, meteors fre-
quently shoot across the heavens, leaving behind long trains of light.

October 2. — Having despatched a messenger to Santa Fe with an official letter for the mail,
we took leave of Galisteo. The main road to Albuquerque, or Rio Abajo, as it is here called,
passes through the gold mines, San Antonio, and the canon at Carnuel. Few have business
leading them directly to the mouth of Galisteo river. Those who do, travel on foot or horse-
back, following a trail about thirty miles along the valley, which, cut up by small ravines, is
not favorable for wagons. There was said to be a road, on the mesa to the right, commanding
a good view of the stream, and this we proposed to follow. Crossing a creek, we ascended to a
high prairie, and for four or five miles pursued a northerly course towards Santa Fe. Then,
turning north 75° west, we continued fifteen miles farther to Delgado's rancho, called Los
Cerritos, from the small rounded hills surrounding it. • Near by are several springs boiling
from the ground, and furnishing a perpetual supply of water. The basin in which they are
situated proves, on examination, to he the crater of an extinct volcano. Here the road forks,
and the one to the left, which we desire to take, is said to be impassable from some temporary
cause. The other is very rough and more circuitous, it being five leagues by it to San Do-
mingo. Therefore, as we could not accomplish the march before dark, it was thought best to

CIENEGA. PBS A BLANC A.

45

encamp. The day and night have heen beautifully clear. The thermometer read at sunrise,
34° ; at sunset, 54° Fahrenheit. Excellent melons and grapes are found here, said to have
been brought from Kio Abajo.

October 3. — Leaving the basin, we ascended a ridge that overlooked a singular spot. Occupy-
ing the oval-shaped crater of another volcano was a village, in the centre of which were two
lava cones sixty feet high, one of them surmounted with a stone tower, as a defence, we were
told, against Comanches. The well-cultivated fields were surrounded by hedges, and watered
by numerous springs. Adobe houses, strung, as usual, with chains of red peppers, were scat-
tered among them, and gaily-clad Mexican rancheros could be seen sunning themselves in front.
We descended a rocky declivity, and entered Cienega, or Cieneguilla, as it sometimes is called.
Winding circuitously among the irrigated fields belonging to the ranchos, we then crossed a deep
arroyo to the wagon trail, called by the villagers, as we thought improperly, " Camino Eeal."
Along the banks of the arroyo were cultivated fields, a number of houses, and a church. At
the end of three miles two branches came in, and the cliffs, three hundred feet in height,
approached and confined us within a canon. Pursuing a general southwest course three miles
farther, upon the sides of the ravine we found trap, lava, and scorite, and upon the smooth
faces of broken rocks were carved numerous hieroglyphics representing the sun, animals, foot-
prints, &c. We also met with several new species of plants. At length we emerged into the
open country we had not intended to leave, which stretches to the base of the Gold mountains,
and is watered by Kio Galisteo on its passage to the del Norte. Cliffs at the terminus of the
gorge were composed of coarse white sandstone, worn into the most perfect representation of a
colonnade. Leaving the canon, we had a level country to the valley of the Kio del Norte,

Entrance of Santa F6 river to tlio valley of Kio Grande, near PeBa Blanca.]

which we entered at Peiia Blanca. Passing this town, we descended the valley about, four
miles to the crossing of the Rio Galisteo, three quarters of a mile above its mouth. According

46

SAN DOMINGO. — SAN FELIPE.

to the barometer, the bed of the stream was here about one thousand feet below the village of
that name. The channel is sandy, and several hundred feet wide, evidently bearing much
water at certain seasons. The flowing stream is now only a few feet in width ; but is said to
feed the acequia that irrigates the cornfields, gardens, and vineyards of the Indian pueblo of
San Domingo, which lies below the junction of the two rivers. This pueblo bears a strong
contrast to Mexican towjis; exhibiting, at a distance, considerable architectural effect. A good
description of it is given by Lieut. Abert in his report on New Mexico. As we entered, an
Indian came forward and offered us the hospitalities of his house ; supper and a bed ; and showed
us fields where he said our mules could graze under their protection. Such hospitality is not
uncommon among them. We encamped, and received a visit of welcome from the governor and
numbers of his people ; and afterwards returned some of their calls ; having to climb ladders to
obtain access to our friends' houses. They received us with great civility, generally offering us
tortillas and melons to eat. We then visited the estufa. The building stands in an isolated
spot, and in form is cylindrical, with a flat roof. Mounting to the top by means of a ladder, we
then descended through a hole to a circular room some 30 feet in diameter. A fire-place with
expiring embers, a candlestick, and something like a censer, were the principal contents. It is
used as a council chamber, and for dancing ; and here are performed all the mystical rites of
their religion. To the simplicity of the estufa, the church offered a strong contrast. The
massive doors were emblazoned with armorial bearings. The vigas of the roof were carved and
gaudily painted. Above and around the altar were images of saints — some of fair proportions,
others of Lilliputian dimensions, but in very good preservation. There were paintings of
various degrees of merit. On many the hand of time had made severe ravages. The canvass
had decayed, and the figures had faded into faint and undefined shapes. Under a fair name
they would doubtless sell for a good price in the New York market. The most curious object
noticed was an ox-skin banner, apparently very old, and painted to represent, in profile, a singu-
lar figure; with buckler and shield, visor, lance, and sword, complete ; riding at full speed
over prostrate warriors, whose upturned faces expressed great consternation. Below, somewhat
defaced, was an inscription, but the governor hurried us away before we had time to copy it.

October 4. — We bade adieu to our hospitable friends, and after travelling a league had passed
Covero, and were in front of the Indian pueblo of San Felipe. Standing upon the opposite
bank of the river, it presented a pretty appearance ; but we did not cross over to examine it.
The church with two towers, and houses surrounded by fruit-trees, were similar to those of San
Domingo. At this po*ot, bluffs of diluvial drift approach the river on both sides, and were
formerly united by a bridge. Upon the west bank a mesa, two hundred feet high, with a pre-
cipitous front, bounds the valley, and overhangs a lesser plateau, upon which the town is built.
Thence it seems to extend south, nearly to the Jemez valley. On the eastern side a similar form-
ation, coming down from the mountains, is broken into gravel-hills, and gradually diminishes
to a spur which juts into the valley at a height of about fifty feet above the river, which here
flows over a rocky bottom, good for foundations. There would be no difficulty, therefore, in
selecting a route for a railroad from some point in the Galisteo valley to this place, crossing to
San Felipe, and thence proceeding along the foot of the bluffs southwest to the river Jemez.

Following the left bank of Rio del Norte, or Rio Grande, as it is now generally called by
Americans, we passed Algodones, a small Mexican town, and thence, through BernardiHo, cele-
brated for the excellent wine produced from its vineyards, to the Indian pueblo of Zandia, near
which we encamped. A crowd of good-natured Indians soon appeared, offering for sale fruit
and poultry at an extravagant price that would have astonished a Jew. But if they were hard
at a bargain, they were honest and kind-hearted.

October 5 — Albuquerque. — Took the upper road along the edge of the gravel hills, leaving the
wide valley and numerous ranchos to the right. Ten or twelve miles from Zandia we entered
the town of Albuquerque. The white wagons and tents of our advanced party were nearly as
conspicuous as the village itself, and we drove towards them to meet our companions. All had

ALBUQUERQUE.

47

arrived safe and well . The surveying party report that they passed through a deep and narrow
canon at Carnuel; hut that it would not he impracticahle to cut through it a passage for a rail-
way, and thence proceed to the Eio Grande near this place with a grade of eighty feet to the
mile.

Albuquerque contains a less population than Santa Fe. Its situation, however, is more cen-
tral with regard to the inhabited portions of New Mexico, and it has been selected by General
Garland for the headquarters of this military department. Nearly the whole valley of Rio del
Norte is capable of yielding good crops; but between Bernardillo and this place are the finest
ranchos and vineyards to be found in the Territory. The number of inhabitants in Albuquerque
and its environs, including the ranchos, is estimated at 2,500. This is exclusive of Atrisco,
which lies opposite upon the right bank of the river. The houses are of one story, built of
adobes, and the appearance of the town is similar to that of others in New Mexico. The pres-
ence of the troops, however, creates an unusual air of animation about it.

CHAPTER VII.

From Albuquerque to Pueblo de la Laguna.

Detention upon Rio Grande for supplies. — Plotting of notes. — Information regarding the country west. — Sitgreaves' route. —
Walker's route. — Aubrey's route. — Employment of guides. — Geological reconnaissance to Zandia mountain and to the gold
mines. — Examination upon the Del Norte for a suitable place for a bridge. — Pueblo of Isleta. — Bosque de los Pinos. — Military
post at Las Lunas. — Arrival of Lieut. Ives and party from El Paso. — Magnetic and astronomical instruments. — Remarks upon
the mode of using them. — Division of the party. — Continuation of the survey via Isleta to Rio Puerco and the San Jose
valley. — Direct route from Albuquerque to Rita. — Coal in the valley of Rio Puerco. — El Alamo. — Ruins of Rita. — Rancho
Colorado. — Pueblo de la Laguna.

November 7 — Albuquerque. — Upon our arrival here, Indian depredations and anticipated
troubles upon the Mexican frontier caused considerable excitement throughout the Territory.
The troops were actively employed in scouts or in preparations for serious encounters. General
Garland, the commanding officer of the department, being upon a tour of observation in the
southern portion of the Territory, the acting commissary remaining at this post was unwilling
to take the responsibility of diminishing the supply of stores on hand, by furnishing the sub-
sistence required for our party for the remainder of the survey. Not being able to purchase
elsewhere, we were obliged to await the return of the commanding general. He arrived on the
21st ultimo, and immediately directed every assistance to be granted us that his department
could afford. Provisions have been received, and arrangements this day completed for our
departure.

During the detention referred to, the party has been actively employed in operations incident
to the work. The notes of the survey from Fort Smith have been plotted and sent to the
department at Washington, thereby duplicating the work and diminishing the chances of losing
the results of our labor. Our means of transportation have been made as complete as circum-
stances would permit. Information regarding the country we propose to traverse, has been
derived from every available source. By the Topographical Bureau we had been furnished
with a tracing from Captain Sitgreaves' map of a reconnaissance to Rio Colorado in 1851 ; and
here we have had intercourse with persons from each party of white men known to have visited
the region near the line of our proposed operations. Mr. Antony Thomas very kindly has
made for us a sketch, from memory, of Mr. Walker's route in 1851, upon which extraordinary
difficulties were encountered. Mr. Tully, a companion of Mr. Aubrey in his recent trip from
California, has given a description of the country over which he passed. Mr. Aubrey himself
has since confirmed the statements of his friend, cautioning us to avoid his trail as being unsuita-
ble for our operations. We have conversed with Jose Manuel Savedra, a New Mexican who pro-
fesses to have accompanied the Moqui Indians upon an expedition against the- Mojaves ; and
also with the guide Antoine Leroux. The information derived from these sources regarding the
country between Zufii and the Colorado river is exceedingly unfavorable ; but as no one has yet
traversed the entire route designated in our instructions, it is possible that the difficulties
encountered by other parties may be avoided by our own. In order to omit nothing that may
contribute to success, we have secured the services both of Leroux and Savedra for the journey.

Several reconnaissances have been made during our stay here, in the vicinity of Rio Grande.
The botanist and geologist passed through the canon of Carnuel to San Antonio, and ascended
to the top of Zandia mountain ; which, from measurement by triangulation from Albuquerque,
is found to be seven thousand feet above the valley of the river, and twelve thousand feet above

MINERAL WEALTH OF NEW MEXICO.

49

the sea. Afterwards they visited the gold mines, and thence proceeded as far as Santa Fe.
The results of their examinations prove interesting. Indications of coal appeared in the canon;
jurassic fossils were found near the summit of the mountain, and they obtained many specimens
of precious metals. Mines have been worked in other localities of this Territory ; the principal
are the gold placers near Taos, the copper mines of Santa Rita, and the silver mines of the
Organ mountains near Fort Fillmore. The latter will probably be found the most valuable.*

* For a full and accurate description of this country, T would refer to a "Memoir of a Tour in Northern Mexico in 1846 and '47,
by A. Wislizenus, M. D.," published by order of the U. S. Senate, in 1848. This document presents so clear a view of the general
character and resources of the Territory, that it seems unnecessary to add further details. A few extracts bearing more particu-
larly upon the subject under consideration, are subjoined :

" New Mexico is a very mountainous country, with a large valley in the middle, running from north to south, and formed by
the Rio del Norte. The valley is generally about 20 miles wide, and bordered on the east and west by mountain chains, continu-
ations of the Rocky mountains, which have received here different names, as Sierra Blanca, de los Organos, oscura, on the eastern
side, and Sierra de los Grullas, de Acha, de los Mimbres, towards the west. The height of these mountains south of Santa Fe
may, upon an average, be between six and eight thousand feet, while near Santa Fe, and in the more northern regions, some
snow-covered peaks are seen that may rise from 10,000 to 12,000 feet above the sea. The mountains are principally composed of
igneous rocks, as granite, sienite, diorit, basalt, &c. On the higher mountains excellent pine timber grows ; on the lower, cedars,
and sometimes oak ; in the valley of the Rio Grande, mezquite.

" The main artery of New Mexico is the Rio del Norte, the longest and largest river in Mexico. Its headwaters were explored in
180*7 by Captain Pike, between the 37° and 38° north latitude; but its highest sources are supposed to be about two degrees
farther north in the Rocky mountains, near the headwaters of the Arkansas and the Rio Grande, (of the Colorado of the west.)
Following a generally southern direction, it runs through New Mexico, where its principal affluent is the Rio Chamas from the
west, and winds its way then in a southeastern direction through the States of Chihuahua, Coahuila and Tamaulipas, to the Gulf
of Mexico, in 25° 56' north latitude. Its tributaries in the latter States are the Pecos, from the north ; the Conchos, Salado,
Alamo, and San Juan, from the south. The whole course of the river, in a straight line, would be near 1,200 miles; but by the
meandering of its lower half, it runs at least about 2,000 miles from the region of eternal snow to the almost tropical climate of
the gulf. The elevation of the river above the sea near Albuquerque, in New Mexico, is about 4,800 feet ; in el Paso del Norte
about 3,800; and at Reynosa, between three and four hundred miles from its mouth, about 170 feet. The fall of its water ap-
peared to be, between Albuquerque and El Paso, from two to three feet in a mile, and below Reynosa one foot in two miles. The
fall of the river is seldom used as motive power, except for some flour mills, which are oftener worked by mules than by water.
The principal advantage which is at present derived from the river is for agriculture, by their well managed system of irrigation.
As to its navigation in New Mexico, I doubt very much if even canoes could be used, except perhaps during May or June, when
the river is in its highest state, from the melting of the snow in the mountains. The river is entirely too shallow, and interrupted
by too many sand-bars, to promise anything for navigation. On the southern portion of the river the recent exploration by
Captain Sterling, of the United States steamer Major Brown, has proved that steamboats may ascend from the gulf as far as
Laredo, a distance of 700 miles. Although said steamboat did not draw over two feet of water, yet the explorers of that region
express their opinion, that 'by spending some $100,000 in a proper improvement of the river above Mier, boats drawing four
feet could readily ply between the mouth of the Rio Grande and Laredo.' Whenever a closer connexion between this head-point
of navigation and New Mexico shall be considered, nothing would answer but a railroad, crossing from the valley of the Rio
Grande to the high table-land in the State of Chihuahua.

" The soil in the valley of the Rio del Norte, in New Mexico, is generally sandy and looks poor, but by irrigation it produces
abundant crops. Though agriculture is carried on in a very primitive way, with the hoe alone, or with a rough plough, made
often entirely of wood, without any particle of iron, they raise large quantities of Indian corn and wheat, beans, onions, red pep-
pers, and some fruits. The most fertile part of the valley begins below Santa Fe, along the river, and is called ' Rio Abajo,' or
(the country) down the river. It is not uncommon there to raise two crops within one year. The general dryness of the cli-
mate, and the aridity of the soil in New Mexico, will always confine agriculture to the valleys of the water-courses, which are as
rare as over all Mexico — such, at least, as contain running water throughout the year. But this important defect may be reme-
died by Artesian wells. On several occasions I remarked on the high table-land from Santa Fe south, that in a certain depth
layers of clay are found, that may form reservoirs of the sunken water-courses from the eastern and western mountain chain,
which, by the improved method of boring, or artesian wells, might be easily made to yield their water to the surface. If experi-
ments to that effect should prove successful, the progress of agriculture in New Mexico would be more rapid, and even many
dreaded ' Jornadas' might be changed from waterless deserts into cultivated plains. But at present, irrigation from a water-
course is the only available means of carrying on agriculture. The irrigation is effected by damming the streams and throwing
the water into larger and smaller ditches (acequias) surrounding and intersecting the whole cultivated land. The inhabitants
of towns and villages, therefore, locate their lands together, and allot to each one a part of the water at certain periods. These
common fields are generally without fences, which are less needed, as the grazing stock is guarded by herdsmen, The finest
fields are generally seen on the haciendas, or large estates, belonging to the rich property holders in New Mexico. These hacien-
das are apparently a remnant of the old feudal system, where large tracts of land, with the appurtenances of Indian inhabit
as serfs, were granted by the Spanish crown to their vassals. The great number of human beings attached to these haciendas
are, in fact, nothing more than serfs; they receive from their masters only food, lodging, and clothing, or perhaps a mere nominal
pay, and are therefore kept in constant debt and dependence to their landlords; so that if old custom and natural indolence did
not prevail upon them to stay with their hereditary masters, the enforcement of the Mexican laws against debtors u ould l>e suffi-
cient to continue their servitude from generation to generation. This actual slavery exists throughout Mexico, in spite of its
1 h

50

EXPLORATIONS ON RIO GRANDE.

To examine points for crossing Eio Grande, explorations have been made below Albuquerque.
We first passed down the valley upon the left bank of the river. Opposite Pajarito, the arroyo of
San Antonio comes down from the canon of Carnuel. Its slope seems uniform, and the course
direct from the gorge through which the survey passed. At Pajarito the river bottom is wide and

liberal constitution ; and as long as this contradiction is not abolished, the declamations of the Mexican press against the slavery
of the United States must appear as hypocritical cant.

"Besides agriculture, the inhabitants of New Mexico pay a great deal of attention to the raising of stock, as horses, mules, cattle,
sheep, and goats. Their stock is all rather of a small size, because they care very little for the improvement of the breed ; but it
increases very fast, and as no feeding in stables is needed in the winter, it gives them very little trouble. There are large tracts
of land in New Mexico too distant from water to be cultivated, or in too mountainous parts, which afford, nevertheless, excellent
pasturage for millions of stock during the whole year ; but unfortunately here, as well as in the State of Chihuahua, the raising
of stock has been crippled by the invasions of the hostile Indians, who considered themselves secret partners in the business, and
annually take their share away.

"A third, much neglected branch of industry in New Mexico are the mines. Great many now deserted mining places in New
Mexico prove that mining was pursued with greater zeal in the old Spanish times than at present, which may be accounted for
in various ways, as the present want of capital, want of knowledge in mining, but especially the unsettled state of the country
and the avarice of its arbitrary rulers. The mountainous parts of New Mexico are very rich in gold, copper, iron, and some
silver. Gold seems to be found to a large extent in all the mountains near Santa Fe, south of it in a distance of about 100 miles,
as far as Gran Quivira, and north for about 120 miles up to the river Sangre de Cristo. Throughout this whole region gold dust
has been abundantly found by the poorer classes of Mexicans, who occupy themselves with the washing of this metal out of the
mountain streams. At present the old and new Placers, near Santa Fe, have attracted most attention, and not only gold washes,
but some gold mines too, are worked there. They are, so far as my knowledge extends, the only gold mines worked now in New
Mexico. But as I have made from Santa Fe an excursion there for the special purpose of examining those mines, I must refer the
reader, in relation to them, to that chapter of my narrative. As to the annual amount of gold produced in New Mexico, I am
unable to give even an estimate. But as nearly all the gold of New Mexico is bought up by the traders, and smuggled out of the
country to the United States, I believe that a closer calculation of the* gold produced in New Mexico could be made in the differ-
ent mints of the United States than in Mexico itself. Several rich silver mines were, in Spanish times, worked at Avo, at Cerrillos,
and in the Nambe mountains, but none at present. Copper is found in abundance throughout the country, but principally at las
Tijeras, Jemas, Abiquiu, Guadelupita de Mora, etc. I heard of but one copper mine worked at present south of the Placers.
Iron, though also abundantly found, is entirely overlooked. Coal has been discovered in different localities, as in the Raton
mountains, near the village of Jemez, southwest of Santa Fe, in a place south of the Placers, etc. Gypsum, common and selenitej
are found in large quantities in Mexico ; most extensive layers of it, I understood, exist in the mountains near Algodones, on the
Rio del Norte, and in the neighborhood of the celebrated 1 Salinas.' It is used as common lime for whitewashing, and the crys-
talline or selenite instead of window-glass. About four days' travelling (probably 100 miles) south-southeast of Santa Fe, on the
high table-land between the Rio del Norte and Pecos, are some extensive salt lakes, or lsalinas,' from which all the salt (muriate
of soda) used in New Mexico is procured. Large caravans go there every year from Santa Fe in the dry season, and return with
as much as they can transport. They exchange, generally, one bushel of salt for one of Indian corn, or sell it for one or even two
dollars a bushel.

"Not far from these salinas the ruins of an old city are found, of the fabulous 'la Gran Quivira.' The common report in rela-
tion to this place is, that a very large and wealthy city was once here situated, with very rich mines, the produce of which was
once or twice a year sent to Spain. At one season, when they were making extraordinary preparations for transporting the
precious metals, the Indians attacked them ; whereupon the miners buried their treasures, worth fifty millions, and left the city
together; but they were all killed except two, who went to Mexico, giving the particulars of the affair, and soliciting aid to
return. But the distance being so great, and the Indians so numerous, nobody would advance, and the thing was dropped. One
of the two went to New Orleans, then under the dominion of Spain, raised 500 men, and started by way of the Sabine, but was
never heard of afterwards. So far the report. Within the last few years several Americans and Frenchmen have visited the
place; and, although they have not found the treasure, they certify at least to the existence of an aqueduct, about ten miles in
length, to the still standing walls of several churches, the sculptures of the Spanish coat of arms, and to many spacious pits, sup-
posed to be silver mines. It was no doubt a Spanish mining town, and it is not unlikely that it was destroyed in 1680, in the
general, successful insurrection of the Indians in New Mexico against the Spaniards. Dr. Samuel G. Morton, in a late pamphlet,
suggests the probability that it was originally an old Indian city, into which the Spaniards, as in several other instances, had
intruded themselves, and subsequently abandoned it. Further investigation, it is to be hoped, will clear up this point.

"The climate of New Mexico is of course very different in the higher, mountainous parts, from the lower valley of the Rio del
Norte ; but, generally taken, it is temperate, constant, and healthy. The summer heat in the valley of the river will sometimes
rise to nearly 100° Fahrenheit, but the nights are always cool and pleasant. The winters are much longer and more severe than
in Chihuahua, the higher mountains are always covered with snow, and ice and snow are common in Santa Fe; but the Rio del
Norte is never frozen with ice thick enough to admit the passage of horses and carriages, as was formerly believed. The sky is
generally clear, and the atmosphere dry. Between July and October, rains fall; but the rainy seasons are here not so constant
and regular as in the southern States. Disease seems to be very little known, except some inflammations and typhoidal fevers in
the winter season.

"The history of New Mexico lies very much in the dark. The Spaniards, it seems, received the first information about it in
1581 from a party of adventurers under Captain Francisco de Levya Bonillo, who, upon finding the aboriginal inhabitants and
the mineral wealth of the country to be similar to those of Mexico, called it New Mexico. In 1594, the then viceroy of Mexico,
Count de Monterey, sent the gallant Juan de Onate, of Zacatecas, to New Mexico, to take formal possession of the country in the

PUEBLO OF ISLETA.

51

low as at Albuquerque. But the diluvial spur that limits the left hank of the arroyo, or ravine,
stretches towards the southwest, forming a bluff bank that abuts upon the river opposite Isleta,
an Indian pueblo about thirteen miles south from Albuquerque. The pueblo stands upon a
gravel ridge that also terminates in a bluff twenty-one feet above the water's edge. These

name of Spain, and to establish colonies, missions, and presidios, (forts.) They found a great many Indian tribes and settle-
ments, which they succeeded in christianizing in the usual Spanish way, with sword in hand, and made them their slaves. The
villages of the christianized Indians were called pueblos, in opposition to the wild and roving tribes that refused such favors.
Many towns, of which only ruins exist now, were established at that time ; many mines were worked, and the occupation of the
country seemed to be secured, when, quite unexpectedly, in 1680, a general insurrection of all the Indian tribes broke out against
the Spanish yoke. The Indians massacred every white male, and the then governor of New Mexico, Don Antonio de Otermin,
after a hard fight, had to retreat with his men from Santa Fe, and marched as far south as Paso del Norte, where they met with
some friendly Indians, and laid the foundation of the present town of that name. It lasted ten years, until Spain recovered the
whole province of New Mexico again. Several other insurrections took place after that, but none so disastrous as the first.
However, the deep rancor of the Indian race against the white has continued to the present time, and in all the frequent and
bloody revolutions of later years in New Mexico the pueblos generally acted a conspicuous and cruel part. There is constantly
some distance between them and the rest of the Mexicans. They live always isolated in their villages, cultivate the soil and
raise some stock, and are generally poor, frugal, and sober. Their different tribes, of which about twenty yet exist, are reduced
to about ten thousand souls. They speak different Indian dialects ; sometimes, too, broken Spanish. All of them know the old
tradition of Montezuma, mentioned already in the account of the old Pecos village; but none have carried the veneration of their
expected Saviour so far as this faithful tribe. For the regulation of their communities they select a chief or cacique, and a coun-
cil, and in war a captain. Their religious rites are a mixture of Catholicism and Indian paganism ; the Spanish priests them-
selves favored this combination, from policy. Their villages are built with great regularity; sometimes they have but one large
house, with several stories, and a great many small rooms, in which the whole village is quartered. Instead of doors in front,
they use trap-doors on the roofs of their houses, to which they climb up on a ladder, which is withdrawn in the night for greater
security. Their dress consists of moccasins, short breeches, and a woolen jacket, or blanket; they generally wear their hair long.
Bows and arrows and a lance, and sometimes a gun, constitute their weapons.

" The whole population of New Mexico was in 1793, according to a census, 30,953 ; in 1833 it was calculated to amount to
52,360, and that number to consist of one-twentieth Gapuchines, (native Spaniards,) four-twentieths Creoles, five-twentieths Mes-
tizes of all grades, and ten-twentieths of pueblo Indians. In 1842, the population was estimated at 57,026, and at present at about
"70,000 souls. * * * * * * - * *

" The caravan started on the usual road, by Algodones, for the Eio del Norte. But being anxious myself to examine the cele-
brated gold mines of New Mexico, the old and new Placers, in a range of mountains southwest from Santa Fe, I intended to make
first from here this out of the way excursion, and to join the caravan afterwards on the Rio del Norte, near Albuquerque. I
started, therefore, in this direction, riding alone, and taking nothing along but my arms and a pair of saddle-bags.

"The distance from here to old Placer is about 25 miles; from Santa Fe, 27. In a southern direction, I rode through the
valley that separates the mountains east of Santa Fe from the chain of the Placers. This valley is about 25 miles broad, very
sandy and sterile, covered with artemisia, and nearer the foot of the Placer mountains with dwarfish cedars. Travelling along
a low chain of hills that form an outward wall to the mountains of old Placer, I passed by two springs, on the first of which I
found sienite; on the other a fresh-water limestone. Ascending afterwards to the hills, I met everywhere with a red and brown
sandstone, looser or more compact, and with large masses of petrified wood. From here the ascent to the mountains is rather
rapid, till a plain is gained, from which a fine retrospective view is enjoyed towards Santa Fe, and over the whole valley. Pine
and cedar cover the mountains all around. Slightly ascending from the plain for some miles, a narrow ravine, between high
walls of mountains, suddenly opposes further advance, and about twenty houses are seen hanging on both sides of the narrow
valley. This solitary place is el Real de Dolores, or, as it is commonly called, old Placer. Several foreigners live here. The
first one I saw was Mr. Watrous, a New Englander, but for many years a resident of this country. He received me very hos-
pitably, and invited me to his dwelling. Some fresh skins of grizzly bears were spread out on scaffolds ; the sure American rille
stood in the corner ; and everything else bore the character of the backwoodsman; but, by his intelligent conversation, he showed
himself a man of very good sense, and as an acute observer. Though Mr. Watrous had not himself been engaged in mining, he
paid attention to his whole neighborhood, and showed me many specimens of gold ores, which, in his rambles through the
mountains, he had collected. I took a walk with him to the nearest golden washes. The first instance of this operation I wit-
nessed on the small creek that runs through old Placer. From the bed of the creek, which was in most places dry, they took up
some of the ground, (gravel, sand, and earth,) put it in a spacious, rather flat wooden bowl, (batea,) added water, removing
first, by stirring with the hand, the coarse pieces of gravel, and then, by well balanced shaking, all the earthy and sandy
particles, till at last nothing is left at the bottom but the finest sand, from which all the visible portions of gold are picked out.
The poorer class of Mexicans are generally occupied with those gold washes in the creek; and they divide for that purpose the
creek, with the water, amongst themselves, in lots, which often call forth as many claims and contests as the finest building lots
in our cities. As the gold is apparently carried here by the waters of the creek from higher auriferous regions, the gaiu from
these washings is different according to the season. The most gold is generally found in and after the rainy season, and it
diminishes with the failing of water. Occasionally they discover a larger piece of gold in the sand ; but generally the gold is so
divided that a whole day's work will amount, on an average, to not more than a quarter or half a dollar. Every evening tiny
sell their small gains to the storekeepers, and take provisions or goods in exchange, or receive cash for it, at the rate of sixteen
dollars per ounce. This is the most common but least profitable way of gold washing. It maybe practised on all the water-
courses in those mountains, provided that there is sufficient water to wash with. In going from this to some other gold washes
in the neighborhood, 1 took notice of the prevalent rocks in old Placer; they arc white and yellow quartzose sandstone, quartz,

52

LOCALITY FOR A BRIDGE.

opposite points form good abutments for a bridge. The distance between tbem is about eight
hundred feet. The bed of the river is sandy, and the depth of water three to four feet. The
usual ford is about one hundred yards below. Few trees occur in the valley, except at Bosque de
los Pinos, five miles below Isleta, where the wide bottom lands are covered with quite a forest of

hornblende and quartz, sienite and greenstone, (diorit.) The second place where I saw the process of gold washing, was on a
high piece of ground not far from a creek. They had opened here a great many pits, to the depth of from 50 to GO feet, and
raised the ground — a sandy earth, mixed with iron ochre — to the surface, where it was washed for gold in the same way, in
bateas. These gold washings are said to be profitable, but they would, in my opinion, be more so, where a regular mining was
done, by sinking a shaft, and by separating the gold by quicksilver, or in some other way than mere washing.

" On the next day I went to see a gold mine near the upper part of the town, belonging to Mr. Tournier, a French resident of
the place. The mine lies between one and two miles west of the town, on the slope of some mountains. It was discovered
several years ago, by Mr. Roubadoux, who commenced working it, but for some reason gave it up. Mr. Tournier had worked it
for one year, and found it very profitable. The gold vein runs from SSE. to NNW., with a very slight dip. It is generally from
two to four feet wide. Mr. Tournier has sunk a shaft already in the entire depth of 40 varas, and with the drift of about 30
varas, and the ore promises to hold out very fairly. The vein is found in sienite and greenstone; the gang consists of argillaceous
iron ore, (yellow and brown iron ochre,) with which the native gold is very intimately mixed. A yellow or brown earth — a
decomposition of the same rocks, and found among them — is considered peculiarly rich in gold. The ores are carried in bags to
the surface, and on mules to the amalgamation mill, in town. After the ores have been ground, by hand, (pounding them with
rocks,) they are put in the mill — a small circular basin, formed with rocks, with one or two mill-stones, which are constantly
turned around in it by mule-power. These millstones are placed on their face, revolving round a centre-pole, which is turned by
the animal. To the coarsely powdered ore, water, and then quicksilver, are added, and the amalgamation goes on in the usual
way. Mr. Tournier told me that he worked in this way every day about two and a half cargas (150 pounds) of the ore, and
that he draws, on an average, three-quarters of an ounce (about $12 worth) of gold out of it. Although the whole work, at
present, is done on a very small scale, and would allow yet many improvements, Mr. Tournier makes, nevertheless, a smart busi-
ness of it, and will soon turn his gold mine into real gold. Near Mr. Tournier's gold mine is a copper mine, (sulphuret of cop-
per,) said to contain gold ore, and worked for some time, but now given up. Several other specimens of copper ore, from the
vicinity, were shown me. A very rich iron ore I saw myself in the neighborhood ; but neither of them is worked.

"The old Placer is a very promising place for mines. The gold ores there were discovered, by mere accident, in 1828, and gold
■washings established ; but besides that the ground is barely touched, and will yet open rich treasures to the mining enchanter
who knows how to unlock them.

"In the afternoon of the same day I left old Placer, to pay a visit to the other mining place, southwest from it, called new
Placer, and about nine miles distant. I rode there with Mr. Nolan, a French resident of new Placer. Our way lay through fine
pine timber, over steep mountains and through narrow ravines. The road is so rough that no wagons can pass it. After having
reached the highest point, an extensive plain is seen towards the south ; and towards the west a small valley opens, in which new
Placer, or Real del Tuerto, a town of about 100 buildings, is situated. Several foreigners reside here, generally storekeepers.
In the house of one of them, with Mr. Trigg, I found a kind and hospitable reception.

" The gold in new Placer is also got in two ways, by washing and by mining. The principal place for gold washing is about
one mile southwest from the town, at the foot of a naked granitic mountain, the so-called ' Bonanza.' A cluster of houses, or
rather huts, form here a small village, whose inhabitants live exclusively by gold washing, but look as poor and wretched as if
they never handled any gold of their own. The whole place is excavated with pits, from whose depths they dig the same yellow
auriferous ground as in old Placer; and they wash it also in the same way. Not a drop of water is found here; all the water
for washing must be brought in barrels from new Placer. The wash-gold obtained from new Placer is generally considered
inferior to that of old Placer, as being more impure. To ascertain the correctness of this opinion, I examined some wash-gold
from new Placer, and found it to contain —

Native gold - 92.5

Silver ---- ------- - 3. 5

Iron and silex - -- -- -- -- - 4. 0

100.0

" I am sorry that I have no wash-gold from old Placer at hand for a comparative analysis, but the above-mentioned result shows
that if any difference exists between the two ores, it cannot be considerable.

"Two gold mines are worked at this time in new Placer; one by Mexicans, the other by an American. They are said to be
very similar to each other. I visited but the nearest, belonging to Mr. Campbell, an American resident of new Placer. Mr.
Campbell commenced mining only a short time since. His amalgamation mill was not yet in operation ; but he had already
collected heaps of gold ores, and invited me to see the mine fhat he had opened. It lies about one and a half miles southwest
from the town, near the top of a high mountain, to which a rough and steep road leads, accessible only to pack-mules. The gold
mine is found, as in old Placer, in sienite and greenstone. It runs horizontally from east to west. The gang is iron ochre and
crystallized quartz. The vein was from eight to ten feet wide, and explored only to the length of about twenty feet, and to the
depth of about ten feet. The ore seems to be very rich in gold, and the prospects it offers to Mr. Campbell are certainly very
flattering.

" The new Placer adds to the attraction of the gold ores, which seem to be found in this whole range of mountains, that of a
better situation as a town than old Placer, and of more passable roads. But many other mining places will no doubt spring up
in this neighborhood, as soon as the state of the country allows it. Up to this time many causes have existed to prevent rather

LAS LUNAS. — ARRIVAL OF LIEUT. IVES.

53

mezquites and cotton- woods. From Isleta, the bluff, which bounds the valley, recedes towards
the west-southwest, with a wide slope, affording a gradual ascent to the table-land between Eio
Grande and the Puerco.

Having completed a series of observations at Isleta^ we proceeded seven miles down the right
bank of the river to Las Lunas, a military station commanded by Capt. Ewell, of the dragoons.
That officer had a thorough knowledge of the country in this vicinity, and was kind enough to
accompany us upon an excursion to look at the route esteemed favorable for crossing over into
the valley of Eio Puerco. It was decided to adopt this course for the survey.

Lieut. Ives, with the party despatched from Washington before us with the design of reach-
ing this place in advance of the survey, in order to make the necessary preparations for facili-
tating our progress westward, was detained in Texas for the want of an escort across the plains
to El Paso, and therefore did not arrive here until the 6th of October. He succeeded in ob-
taining at El Paso the instruments loaned by the Department of the Interior, which have
much increased the facilities for making scientific observations. Among them were an astro-
nomical transit, and a "Fox" dip-circle, for measuring the elements of magnetism. The latter
instrument was invented by Mr. Fox, of Falmouth, England, who has given instructions for

than to encourage mining enterprise. Though the law in New Mexico was generally very liberal in granting lots for mining, the
instability of Mexican laws, and their arbitrary administration, have neutralized and annihilated it. When a New Mexican
wants to work a gold or other mine, not yet occupied by another, he has to apply to the nearest alcalde, (justice of peace of the
district,) who, according to the means and intended work of the individual, allows him a smaller or larger tract of land, meas-
ured only in front, and reaching in depth as far as the owner pleases to go. The price of the land is trifling ; but if the owner
does not work a certain portion of the mine every year, it falls back to the government. Foreigners were, in consequence of the
eternal revolutions and new law-codes in Mexico, sometimes excluded, sometimes allowed to participate in this privilege. By
taking a Mexican as partner, they obviated the law ; but the most dangerous enemy was generally the avaricious Mexican gov-
ernment itself. Often, when a foreigner had opened a profitable mine, those trustees of justice interfered, for some reason or
other, and ejected the owner of his property. Several instances of such proceedings are known. If we add to these causes the
isolated situation of New Mexico, the thin population, the want of good mechanics and real miners, the hostilities and depreda-
tions of Indians, it will not astonish us at all that, notwithstanding the great mineral resources of the country, so few mines are
worked at present.

" The annual production of gold in the two Placers seems to vary considerable. In some years it was estimated from $30,000
to $40,000, in others from $60,000 to $80,000, and in latter years even as high as $250,000 per annum." * * *

"At the conclusion of my journal, it may not be amiss to add some general remarks in relation to northern Mexico.

" New Mexico and Chihuahua, which I consider here principally, because they fell under my immediate observation, are neither
the richest nor the poorest States of Mexico ; but both of them have resources that never have been fully developed.

11 Agriculture, as we have seen, is the least promising branch of industry. The want of more water-courses, and the necessity of
irrigation, are the principal causes ; but nevertheless, they raise every year more than sufficient for their own consumption ; and
failure of crops, with starvation of the people, is less common here than in many other countries, because the regular system of
irrigation itself prevents it. Besides, there are large tracts of land in the country fit for agriculture, but allowing no isolated
settlements on account of the Indians. Another reason, too, why farming settlements make slow progress is the large haciendas.
That independent class of small farmers who occupy the greatest part of the land in the United States is here but poorly repre-
sented, and the large estates cultivate generally less ground than many smaller but independent farmers.

" As a grazing country, both States are unsurpassed by any in the Union. Millions of stock can be raised every year in the
prairies of the high table-land and in the mountains. Cattle, horses, mules, and sheep increase very fast ; and if more attention
were paid to the improvement of the stock, the wool of the sheep alone could be made the exchange for the greatest part of the
present importation. But to accomplish that, the wild Indians, who chiefly in the last ten years have crippled all industry in
stock raising, have first to be subdued.

"Mining, another main resource of the country, needs to some degree, also, protection from the Indians, because valuable mines
have sometimes been given up, from their incursions ; and other districts, rich in minerals, cannot be even explored, for the same
reason.

" The silver mines of the State of Chihuahua, though worked for centuries, seem to be inexhaustible. The discovery of new
mines is but a common occurrence; and, attracted by them, the mining population moves generally from one place to another
without exhausting the old ones. To make the mining more effectual, onerous duties and partial restrictions ought to be abol-
ished, and sufficient capital to work them more thoroughly and extensively would soon flow to the State. Now Mexico seems to
be as rich in gold ore as Chihuahua is in silver; but yet, less capital and greater insecurity have prevented their being worked
to a large extent.

"To develop all those resources which nature has bestowed upon these two States, another condition of things is wanted than
at present prevails there: a just, stable, and strong government is, before all, needed, that can put down the hostile Indians, give
security of person and property to all, allow free competition in all branches of industry, and will not tax the people higher than
the absolute wants of the government require. Under such a government, the population, as well as the produce of the country,
would increase at a rapid rate ; new outlets would be opened to commerce, and the people would not only become richer aud
more comfortable, but more enlightened, too, and more liberal."

54

DETERMINATION OF ELEMENTS OF MAGNETISM AT CAMPS.

its use in obtaining the magnetic inclination of the needle, and relative intensity of magnetism
at different points of the earth's surface. The transit was made by Troughton & Simms, of
London, after a plan furnished by Col. Graham, of the Topographical Engineers. Upon three
foot-screws rests a circular base, to which are attached, by movable screws, the vertical up-
rights forming the Y's. The telescope has a focal length of twenty-two inches. The whole is
light and portable. We have had a pine stand made for it, the parts firmly fastened together
with wooden pins. Iron was excluded, in order that it might serve also for the magnetic in-
strument. Lieut. Ives was directed to commence a series of observations at this place, to serve
as a basis for comparison with succeeding stations. In none of our text-books can be found
detailed instructions upon the mode of adjusting and using these instruments with the rapidity
required for field service. As, hereafter, only slight notice will be taken of this portion of our
operations, it may not be deemed out of place to insert the method which experience, upon sim-
ilar surveys, had suggested as proper to adopt. It will serve also to show what value should
be accorded to the results obtained from the observations.

MODE OF DETERMINING THE ASTRONOMICAL POSITIONS AND THE ELEMENTS OF MAGNETISM AT TEMPO-
RARY GAMPS.

Upon arriving at camp, usually from 3 to 5 p. m., a firm stool, about two and a half feet
high, will be placed on solid ground, from whence a clear view of the heavens, and particularly
of the meridian, can be obtained. A trench from one and a half to two feet deep will be dug
surrounding the stand, about eighteen inches from the point beneath the centre, leaving an iso-
lated column of earth, free from the vibratory motion communicated by the ordinary move-
ments of the men and animals about camp. There should be a platform for the observer north
and south of the stand, resting entirely outside the trench. It must be recollected that the
value of the observations greatly depends upon the isolation of the instrument. Hence a flat
rock should never be selected as a foundation, in case the observer is obliged to stand upon the
same himself. Cooking-fires should be at least 300 feet distant, and to the leeward, that the
smoke may not vitiate the results.

The stand being prepared, the "Fox" magnetic dip and intensity instrument will be placed
upon it and adjusted; the recorder will take the note-book; the instrument-attendant his ivory
disc, and the observer make the usual observations upon the needles and azimuth circle for the
magnetic meridian, inclination, and intensity. This operation, and a record of the usual bar-
ometric and meteorological observations, will be completed at sunset. With the estimated lati-
tude of the place, the telescope of the dip-circle will be set to the altitude of Polaris, which will
be observed at the intersection of the two wires as soon as it appears, and the time of observa-
tion and readings of altitude and azimuth circles recorded. The telescope will be now depressed
to the same angle below the horizon, and the star observed as reflected from an artificial hori-
zon of mercury. The face of the instrument being set in the opposite direction, similar obser-
vations on Polaris will be recorded ; first by reflection, and then direct. We have now, provided
the error of chronometer be known, data for determining the reading of the azimuth circle when
the telescope is in the true meridian; which, compared with observations previously recorded for
the magnetic meridian, gives, approximately, the magnetic declination. The altitudes read
will give the latitude of the place to the nearest minute.

The magnetic instrument, the adjustments of which have remained undisturbed during the
preceding operations, now gives place to the astronomical transit. Polaris being visible, the
first approximation to the meridian will be to direct the telescope towards that star. By the
striding level the stand will be approximately levelled, and the telescope again directed towards
Polaris, if supposed near its upper or lower culmination. If the error of the chronometer be
entirely unknown, adjust the axis by the foot-screws, until the reversals of the striding level
prove that the telescope moves in a vertical plane ; then elevate, and observe the chronometer
time of passage over the middle wire of the first known star near the zenith. The difference

ASTRONOMICAL TRANSIT OBSERVATIONS AT CAMPS.

55

between this time and the right ascension of the star for the night, will give the approximate
error of the chronometer. Apply this error to the right ascension of the first "known circum-
polar star that approaches the meridian. The estimated latitude of the place, plus or minus
the star's polar distance, according as the star happens to he above or below the pole, will give
the altitude at which the vertical circle should be set, in order to find the star_ sought. This
should be done several minutes before the computed time of the star's meridian passage. Tf the
star does not then appear in the telescope, sight along the upper edge of the tube ; and if it can
be seen with the naked eye, one may judge whether the instrument needs to be moved in azi-
muth east or west. This motion should, if possible, be communicated by the micrometer screw
attached to the Y. The star at length having been brought into the field of the telescope, the
recorder, who watches the chronometer, states how many minutes are wanting to the time of
computed meridian passage. The observer then turns the azimuth micrometer screw until the
middle wire of the telescope is in advance of the star's place, about equal to the distance over
which he imagines the star will move during the time specified. Now, if able, while awaiting
the signal from the recorder, who repeats the distance from the meridian in minutes of time by
the chronometer, the observer, by the aid of the striding level, makes the axis of the instrument
horizontal. He then places his eye to the telescope; and, as tbe star approaches the meridian,
turns the azimuth micrometer screw; and, as the recorder repeats successively, "two minutes,"
"one minute," "thirty seconds," "fifteen seconds," brings the middle wire closer to the star;
and when the recorder cries "time," makes the middle wire bisect the star. The transit is now
probably very nearly in the meridian. To test this, observe the passage of the next two known
stars that pass the meridian ; one high, near the zenith ; the other differing thirty or forty
degrees from the first in declination. If nearly equal differences be found between the observed
times of passage of these stars over the middle wire, and their right ascensions, respectively —
that is, if the difference between the AE. and time of passage of the first star over the middle
wire agrees, within half a second or less, with the difference of AB. and chronometer time of the
second star's transit — the instrument is sufficiently near the meridian for the night's work. The
adjustments should not, therefore, after this be disturbed until a complete set of observations
has been obtained. This set consists in a record of the times of transit of every Nautical
Almanac, or well known star that approaches the meridian, until one high and one low star, or
two circumpolar stars, one above and one below the pole, have been observed for deviation of
instrument, and about five near the equator for time. A record of the readings of the level
should frequently be made for data to correct for inclination of axis. Should the moon appear,
her bright limb will be observed when tangent to the wires; and the culminators of the Nauti-
cal Almanac will be added to the list. The error in collimation of the optical axis is supposed
to be small, before the commencement of the observation. To insure this, the telescope, when
first set up and levelled, may be directed to some distant clearly defined point, and so adjusted
that the middle wire may bisect and thread the object. The axis then being reversed, and the
telescope again turned to the point, the apparent lateral distance of the wire from it is equal to
twice the collimation error; which may be nearly corrected by the screws that hold the dia-
phragm. The residual error should be nicely determined, at leisure, after the night's usual
observations have been completed. Polaris., or some other close circumpolar star, should be
observed upon the first three wires, "A," "B," "C," with illuminated end of axis east; then
reverse the axis in the Y's, and observe the star's passage over the same three wires "C," "B,"
"A," the error in level having been recorded for both positions of the axis. This operation
will give data for the determination of error in collimation; for which, unless very small, the
results for time should be corrected. The distance from each lateral to the middle w ire, railed
the equatorial interval, should be obtained on first commencing the use of the instrument. Cir-
cumpolar stars are supposed best for this determination, because a small error in the time of
noting the observation does not appreciably affect the result. Upon a clear night, and with a
steady instrument, Polaris or some other star should be observed upon each wire consecutively,

56

TRANSIT AND SEXTANT OBSERVATIONS AT CAMPS.

from A to G, if the illuminated end of the axis be east, and from Gr to A, when reversed. The
observed interval from a lateral to the middle wire, divided by the secant of the star's declina-
tion, will give the equatorial interval. The mean of several results should be taken in order to
insure accuracy. Having the equatorial interval, a catalogue of stars should be constructed;
giving, according to tbe declination of each, the true distance in time from each lateral wire to
the middle wire. Having this list before him, tbe observer may at once convert the observation
upon any one wire to what it should have been upon the middle wire itself. And there is also
this advantage in acquiring thus by induction the mean of all the wires observed : that, in case
an error has occurred in one observation, the rest will visibly combine to prove that it ought to
be rejected.

The meridional transit observations having been completed, the observer will revolve his
instrument ninety degrees,* and observe the transit of stars over the prime vertical for latitude.
For this purpose, from an assumed approximate latitude of the place, should be prepared a
catalogue of the zenith distances, and times of passage of stars over the first wire, on the prime
vertical, east and west. To determine the deviation, it will be preferable to select stars that
cross the prime vertical near the horizon. Only those that cross near the zenith will be used in
the direct computations for latitude. Set the transit so as to catch the star to be observed upon ;
take four readings of the striding level, direct and reversed ; and, should the instrument not be
accurately placed in the prime vertical, the first wire may be made to bisect the star at its com-
puted time of passage ; the signal being given by the recorder. The illuminated end of axis
being north, wire A will first thread the star; and afterwards will be accurately noted the times
of passage over B and C. The motion of the star being slow, there will be time to reset the
striding level, and have four more readings of level error recorded. The axis of the telescope
will now be reversed, and four readings again taken with the level. The star will then be
watched, and the times noted when it passes the same wires, 0, B, A, with the illuminated end
of axis south. With another set of readings for level, the observations upon the east prime
vertical will be completed. At the same altitude as the last observation east, the telescope will
be directed west, in time to catch the star upon the first wire ; and the times of passage over A,
B, and C will be noted, with level readings, as before, preceding and following the observations.
Then reverse the telescope axis and repeat the operation; first with the level, then observing
the star upon the wires C, B, and A; a final levelling completes the process, which will give
three results for latitude. Observations should be made on several stars crossing the prime
vertical near the zenith, and the mean of the results taken for the true latitude.

Latitude and longitude have been obtained by the preceding methods, with one transit instru-
ment, in a single night. With a sextant and an artificial horizon of mercury, similar results
may be accomplished as follows :

Place the artificial horizon where the meridian and prime vertical are visible from thirty
degrees altitude to the zenith. Dig a slight trench to isolate the cube of earth on which the
mercury rests. Watch for bright stars to attain nearly equal altitudes of from thirty to sixty
degrees, near the prime vertical, east and west, upon which to observe for time ; and upon the
meridian, north and south, for latitude. In places between thirty degrees and sixty degrees
north of the equator, Polaris will always, when not concealed by clouds or mist, be available
for latitude. Upon a clear night the observer may, therefore, be employed in observing that
star, whenever compelled to wait for others to arrive in position. He will place a stool south of
the artificial horizon and move his seat, and the direction of the glass roof till the star appears
reflected from the mercury. Then, with the sextant clasped in his right hand, and elbow resting
on his thigh, he will look through the telescope at the reflected image. Keeping the plane of
the sextant truly vertical, with a sweep of the index with his left hand, twice the angle of ele-
vation of the star, he will bring also into the field of view its image, as reflected from the index
mirror. These two images being brought by the tangent screw directly in contact, so as to

•The transit used would have been much more convenient for this purpose, had it rested upon an azimuth circle.

REMARKS ON FIELD OBSERVATIONS. — DEPARTURE FROM ALBUQUERQUE.

57

appear coincident, the signal "time" will be given to the recorder, who will he on the watch,
and notice the instant required. Opposite to this record of the chronometer time, should he
noted the double altitude or reading of the sextant. Fifteen such observations upon a star
north, and a like number upon a star south, of nearly the same altitude, both taken within ten
minutes of the meridian, should give the latitude within 10" of arc. Another set of stars
nearly equal in altitude, one east and the other west, will give a result for time ; and hence,
knowing the error and rate of chronometer at any other station, we obtain the difference of
longitudes. The greater the number of pairs of stars observed upon, the more accurate will be
the result. Index error should be observed each day or night. The diameter of the sun may
be measured by bringing its reflected image tangent first upon one side, then upon the other ;
and half the difference of the readings will give the index error. Or the reflected image of a
star may be brought in contact with that seen through the telescope ; and the zero of the ver-
nier will then indicate the point which should be the zero of the arc. Hence, the reading will
denote the index error, to be added to the altitudes observed when the reading is off the arc,
and vice versa.

If observations be made for latitude upon one star north, and upon another south of the
zenith, of very nearly equal altitudes, and those observations, corrected for index error, be com-
puted, the difference in the results should be due to eccentricity of the instrument. One half
this difference may be adopted as the eccentricity for that angle, and may be applied to future
observations.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Polaris, being near the pole, may be observed for latitude at any hour of the night when visible.

All instruments should be handled lightly and delicately. No clamp screws should be tightly
pressed. Every part of an instrument not absolutely necessary should be dispensed with ; as,
for instance, clamps on the vertical circle of a meridian transit, or bars to hold its axis in posi-
tion. Sufficient care in the manipulation supersedes the necessity of such appliances.

Lists of occultations will be frequently examined ; and if the moon is above the horizon at
the time when the occurrence of an occultation is predicted, the large telescope, four feet focal
length, will be mounted, and the moment of the disappearance of the star behind the moon's
limb will be noticed. During the moon's first quarter, and until full moon, this occultation
will take place behind the dark limb. Afterwards the star will be occulted by the bright limb,
and the time of emersion from the dark side should then be marked.

The error of chronometer being determined at one station, and its rate approximately known,
for the succeeding date and station apply the rate, and the estimated or measured distance due
east or west, reckoning plus or minus four seconds of time to the mile. In this latitude, this will
generally give the error of chronometer with sufficient accuracy to set the transit in the meri-
dian by a circumpolar star.

Formulas and methods of computing the results of the foregoing observations may be found
in the "Tables" prepared by Capt. Thomas J. Lee, Topographical Engineers, for the use of
the corps. This admirable and comprehensive work contains almost all that is necessary for
field and office computations, and is now an indispensable companion of the topographical
engineer.

November 8. — Our party has to-day been divided ; one portion of it continuing the survey.
It is conducted by Lieutenant Ives; Mr. Albert Campbell and Dr. Kennerly accompanying him.
They will proceed by the way of Isleta, so as to bring that point into the main survey, and
thence, passing the ridge westward, determine the practicability of crossing the valley of Rio
Puerco in that direction.

November 10. — Taking leave of our hospitable friends at Albuquerque, with the rear division
of the party we recommenced the journey westward. Fording the river, we passed through
the village of Atrisco, and encamped in the valley at a rancho four miles from Albuquerque.
8 h

58

RIO PUERCO. — RIO SAN JOSF. — EL ALAMO.

Packing up and crossing the river we regard as satisfactory progress for the first day. The hed
of the stream is ahout five hundred yards wide, with a channel upon each side from three to
four feet deep, and a temporary island of sand and clay in the centre, occupying about one
third of the width. In one or two places there were quicksands sufficient to make the passage
laborious. The current of the stream is rapid. According to the observations of Dr. Wisli-
zenus, the fall of the water between Albuquerque and El Paso is from two to three feet in a
mile. Our own observations make the fall five feet per mile at this place. We propose, with
compass, barometer, and odometer, to examine the country near the direct route to Zuni ; and
to unite with the main survey somewhere upon Rio San Jose, a branch of the Puerco.

November 11. — We soon left the river valley to climb the ridge which bounds it. For the
first six miles the ascent was gradual, averaging, probably, eighty or ninety feet to the mile.
We then reached a steep bluff, about 200 feet in height, leading to the top of the mesa. For
eight miles from thence the surface was generally level. A ravine led us gently to the valley
of the Puerco, which is 300 feet below the summit of the dividing ridge, and at this place quite
wide. We expected to find the bed of the stream dry, but it contained pools of water. The
soil looks rich, but is barren for want of moisture. If it could be irrigated by artesian wells,
as the geologist believes to be practicable, or by reservoirs for the surplus water of the rainy
season, this region would be worthy of cultivation.

We encamped here. Two of the beef-cattle strayed last night. Men were sent to-day in
search of them, but returned late at night unsuccessful. The high table-lands passed over
exhibit scoriae and volcanic hills. A few miles below, a vein of coal crops out. We have been
shown large fragments of it, apparently of good quality. The dragoon blacksmith at Las
Lunas makes use of it in his forge. From what is now known of the valley of Rio del Norte,
and the obstacles to be encountered upon both sides, it seems probable that of the two practi-
cable passes of the Rocky mountains examined by us, the one by Oalisteo and San Felipe would
be more economical than that by the Carnuel canon and Isleta. Crossing the river at San
Felipe, we would follow the slope of the bluff southwest, cross Rio Jemez and ascend to the
table-land. Thence could be selected favorable ground for a descent to Rio Puerco.

November 12. — Our route led us to a low ridge, from which we soon descended to the border
of the fine wide valley of San Jose. Different portions of the stream have received different
names: Rio de Gallo, Rio de la Laguna, and Rio Rito. We prefer to retain one appellation
for the whole, and Rio San Jose is now generally understood to apply to it throughout. After
travelling twelve miles, and passing the spiirs of some hills, we reached "El Alamo," sometimes
called Sheep springs. The water seems to issue from beneath a sandstone ledge, but is neither
palatable nor abundant. The mules were driven three miles across the valley to drink at the
river. The bluff bounding the Puerco valley upon the west is capped with dark jurassic clay,
indicative of the presence of coal. At the Carnuel canon, coal is said to be found in the same
formation. Gypsum, the new red sandstone, and lias have been seen upon the route to-day.
The weather since leaving Albuquerque has been pleasant. The days are warm, though there
are occasional chilly winds from the mountains. At night the atmosphere is peculiarly serene
and pure, affording an excellent opportunity for astronomical observations.

November 13. — Leaving El Alamo, we followed the border of the San Jose valley, which lies
south of us, several miles in width. The bluffs on our right were of new red sandstone, with
gypsum frequently cropping out below, and white jurassic sand occasionally appearing above.
Twelve miles from camp the valley was contracted between the sandstone bluffs, and upon a
mesa hill of black lava fifty feet high was the ruin of an old Mexican town called Rita. This
place has been deserted, possibly on account of Indian depredations. The want of water has
been suggested as the cause, for the stream that now flows by the foot of the hill is narrow,
and, a short distance below, shows strong symptoms of sinking below the surface. The banks
are covered with a rich soil, which, in some places, is white with efflorescent salts. Ascending
the narrow valley, the stream became larger. A mile above Rita, in a pleasant nook, we found

PUEBLO DE LA LAGUNA. — COAL BEDS.

59

Lieutenant Ives with the surveying party encamped. They had proceeded to Isleta; examined
the proposed site for a bridge ; crossed the heights ; descended to the Puerco ; and thence, by
the way of Eio San Jose, arrived at their present camp. Mr. Campbell tells me that the ascent
from Rio del Norte was obtained at a grade of about fifty feet to the mile, and the descent to
Eio Puerco need not exceed thirty feet to the mile. Thence the valley of San Jose leads to this
place.

Opposite Lieutenant Ives' camp is the point of a red sandstone bluff, one hundred and fifty
feet high, upon the top of which are perched the dilapidated stone houses of Rancho Colorado.
Several of our party climbed the cliff and examined the ruins. The houses, as Captain Simpson
describes, had been converted to sheep-folds ; but how sheep could have clambered up the nearly
perpendicular walls, appearing to be nowhere less than fifteen or twenty feet in height, none
could understand. In one spot a pit like a grave had been cut into the rock, to the depth of
several feet, but no remains could be discovered in it.

It being Sunday, the surveyors were resting from their labors. Leaving them there, our little
party ascended the valley, crossed the creek, and followed the road over a chain of hills about
two hundred and fifty feet above the valley. A short distance north, the river was crowded into
a canon ; above which a little valley opened and revealed Laguna. As we approched the town,
the Germans of the party almost imagined themselves, in "Fatherland." The western sun
shone upon the place through a haze, which softened the outlines and rendered the view strikingly
similar to pictures of Dutch cities. The town stands upon a rocky eminence, rising from the
river, and the crowded houses with terraced stories seemed actually piled upon one another.
The river flows at its foot and irrigates below a well cultivated valley. This is one of the old
Indian pueblos, probably but little changed from the condition in which it was found by the
Spaniards in the sixteenth century. It is now said to contain one thousand persons. The in-
habitants are reputed honest, sober, and to a certain degree industrious. Encamping near by,
we visited by invitation the family of the Rev. Mr. Gorman, a missionary of the Baptist per-
suasion, who has established himself among this singular people. His school for children is
well attended. Adults also listen respectfully to his instructions.

In the centre of the pueblo is a plaza, or sort of court, surrounded by houses facing inwards,
and so closely built as to give admittance by two crooked alleys only. Here the Indians collect
upon certain festivals which no Mexican is allowed to witness. Americans, however, are freely
admitted ; because, they say, facetiously perhaps, we are of the same race and people with them-
selves. Here the ancient buffalo dance is performed, as well as superstitious rites regarding
Montezuma. Near by stands the church, a venerable pile of building, partly in ruins, where
services are occasionally performed by a Catholic priest. The interior of the main building is
used as a cemetery. At a funeral, the body, wrapped in ordinary wearing apparel, is laid in a
shallow grave ; with bread and a vessel of water placed upon it. Heavy stones are then thrown
on with such violence as often to crush the bones ; the object being, it is said, to drive out evil
spirits. The space is so limited, that, in digging a new grave, it is an ordinary occurrence for
a body previously interred to be turned up ; in which case it is taken out and thrown into a
little enclosure adjoining the church, where there is now an immense pile of bones, skeletons,
and carcasses. Our naturalist, for the cause of science, succeeded in abstracting a skull. From
the top of the church, a view of the valley showed an opening far into the canon below, through
which the river seemed to force its way. A short deep cut, therefore, through the hills over
which we passed, would suffice to carry a railroad across, with very little change of grade.
Coal and jet are found near. An excellent bed of the former crops out near Cebolleta, furnish-
ing fuel for blacksmiths' shops in the vicinity. There has long been a sort of tradition, among
the Mexicans, of a burning mountain forty miles farther north. Captain Ker, late of the dra-
goons, states that when he was upon an expedition in that vicinity, the guide eondueted him to
it. There he found deep fissures from which smoke was issuing, leading to the inference that
it proceeded from a burning coal bed.

60

IRRIGATION OF THE SOIL.

For the greater part of the distance from Eio Puerco to this place, the soil appears to he good ;
hut little cultivated for want of moisture. The small stream of San Jose can supply acequias
for irrigating only a portion of the wide valley which pertains to it. By common wells enough
water might be obtained for the ordinary uses of a population. The country seems also favorable
for the construction of artesian wells. If, by this means, sufficient water for irrigation could be
procured, many fine valleys would be placed under cultivation.

The night is clear. Astronomical observations have been made.

CHAPTER VIII.

From Pueblo de la Laguna to Zuni.

Covero. — Navajo depredations. — Disturbance at a fandango. — Mount Taylor. — Hay Camp. — Lava bed. — Division of party. —
Camino del Obispo. — Forests of Sierra Madre. — Agua Pria. — Acoma Indians. — Summit of Sierra Madre. — Inscription Rock. —
Ojo Pescado. — Ancient ruins. — Coal. — Rio de Zuni. — Sacred spring. — Visit to Zuni. — Smallpox. — Caciques. — System of govern-
ment.— White Indians. — Party from Port Defiance. — Campbell's Pass. — Tradition of the flood. — Visit to Old Zuni. — Sacred
altar. — Arch spring.

November 14 — Camp 64. — Lieut. Ives' party overtook us soon after starting this morning,
and we proceeded together for twelve miles from Laguna westwardly — the general course of
the valley of San Jose — till opposite Covero. Then, leaving the river-side, we turned north
two and a half miles to the town, where we encamped. The valley of the river was, however,
examined some miles farther, to the point where the Zuni road again strikes it. The detour hy
Covero appears to have heen made for the convenience of the inhabitants, rather than of those
travelling towards the west ; hut the road is so fine that the increased distance is not complained
of. Most of the valley along our route is cultivated hy Pueblo Indians. The stream, as we
ascended, bore a greater volume of water ; forming lagunas, and fertilizing some very broad
bottoms. Covero is within one of the valleys that lead from San Mateo or Mount Taylor to
Kio San Jose. It is a Mexican town, containing about sixty families, and is situated upon a
sandstone ledge, on one side of which is a narrow fissure, from whence gushes a rill of clear
cold water. Below this trickling stream are small cavities in the rock, from which the town
draws its supply. By the side of the fountain stands a singular column of sandstone, from
twelve to fifteen feet high, somewhat in the form of an urn, with a hole worn at its base so as
to admit of a passage through it.

This being a frontier Mexican settlement, the people have suffered greatly from incursions of
the Navajoes.* Occasionally they have been driven from their village to take refuge among the
neighboring cliffs, where are defiles and difficult passages favoring both concealment and de-
fence. Many have been taken prisoners by the Indians, and ransomed after years of servitude.
One of the men showed a Navajo shield, called "chimal," which he had won as a trophy in
battle. It was of raw hide, circular, about two feet in diameter, with an image of a demon
painted upon one side, and bordered with red cloth, the ends of which hung in long streamers
trimmed with feathers. The Navajoes are not always hostile. They have frequently visited
the village on friendly terms, and probably the inhabitants, by trade with them, have made as
much in peace as they have lost in war. It was once the boast of these Indians, that, if they
desired, they could exterminate the Mexicans ; and that they only spared them to save them-
selves the trouble of cultivating corn and raising sheep. Last night two Navajoes were in our
camp at Laguna. They were from Caravajal's band, which is now not far off, and were sup-
posed to have been sent as spies. This Caravajal seems to be a man of great enterprise and
cunning. It is said that, formerly, he was accustomed to hover about the settlements, till, see-
ing a fair chance for pillage, he would communicate the fact to some band in the vicinity pre-
pared to improve the opportunity ; and then, turning informer, put the Mexicans upon the I rail
of the plunderers — claiming a reward from both sides.

The fandango this evening was interrupted by a great disturbance outside. People rushed
out to see what was the matter. Everybody, as is usual among Mexicans whenever there ifl

* Pronounced Nah-vah-hdes.

62

SAN JOSE VALLEY. — EXPEDITION TO FORT DEFIANCE.

the slightest cause, seemed to he in a high state of excitement. Menacing words were ban-
died, knives flourished, and pistols drawn. The whole town was in an uproar, and no one
seemed to know what it was about. At length it was ascertained that one of our herders,
named Torrivio, had been recognised as a peon, and a man wished to seize and imprison him
till he could be restored to his original state of servitude. The Mexican had tasted freedom,
and was manfully defending it. The claim was only fifteen or twenty dollars ; so the money
was advanced, and order immediately restored. Had it not been paid, this little debt might
have kept the poor fellow bound to his master for life.* In New Mexico the system of peonage
has been abolished in law, but not in practice. Written statutes are a sealed book to the labor-
ing classes, and nearly a dead letter to the alcaldes.

The night has been favorable for making astronomical observations.

November 15 — Camp 65. — Preparing to start this morning, there was great delay, which,
upon inquiry, was found to be due to a lack of herders and packers. It appeared that this was
the home of the greater part of them, and that their female friends were begging them to stay.
It seemed doubtful for awhile which would prevail — duty or love; but at length, a month's
pay having been advanced for them to leave behind, their families became somewhat reconciled,
and allowed them to depart.

The route passed within six or eight miles of Mount Taylor. This mountain is of volcanic
origin, and rests upon sedimentary strata whose horizontality is still undisturbed. Four miles
over a smooth road led us again to Rio San Jose, here a pretty brook rushing impetuously over
a bed of lava. Having followed the edge of the valley eleven miles, we stopped at what is
called by Americans "Hay Camp." It is a pleasant spot. The valley spreads out into a wide
vega,f covered with an abundance of grama, which is occasionally cut to supply hay for the
military posts. The whole length of the valley followed to-day has been threaded by a sinuous
stream of lava. It appears as if it had rolled down a viscous semi-fluid mass, had been arrested
in its course, hardened, blackened, cracked, and in places broken, so as to allow the little brook
to gush out from below and gurgle along by its side. The lava bed is frequently a hundred
yards in width, the cross-section being a semi-ellipse, in the centre probably thirty feet high.

November 16 — Camp 66. — A short distance above Hay Camp the road divided — one branch,
the Camino del Obispo, leading to Zuiii; the other being the new route by Ojo del Oso to Fort
Defiance. There was also a trail, between the two, ascending the river to Ojo del Grallo, and
thence crossing through a gap in the mountains to Zuni. The latter is noticed by Capt. Simp-
son in his report of Col. Washington's Navajo expedition. In order to examine the two other
routes, our party separated ; Mr. Campbell taking the northern branch, while the train and
main survey followed the southern. Lieut. Jones also, accompanied by Leroux and a small
party, set out for Fort Defiance. An additional escort being ordered from that post, we hope
it may be prepared to join us at Zuni, or at least upon the Colorado Chiquito.

With the train, our course for some distance was west, till we had, not without difficulty,
crossed the lava stream that has been mentioned. Having reached the base of the mountains,
the road turned gradually towards the south and southwest, rising at the rate of about sixty
feet per mile along the smooth slope which bounds the valley. Having travelled eighteen
miles, we encamped. The average ascent for the march was fifty feet per mile. Our camp is
in a grassy, park-like spot, without water, but in the midst of a forest of spruce and pines.
The trees are tall, straight, and, almost without exception, appear to be perfectly sound. For
railroad ties they would afford good material, and in this climate might be durable without
the expense of kyanization.

Rather an amusing scene occurred when the men came into camp. The day having been
warm, some of the teamsters became thirsty, and finding a keg of spirituous liquor in one of

* Of all the Mexicans wiio accompanied us, no one was more efficient than Torrivio. He was killed by Indians while in the
discharge of duty that had been assigned him.
f An open plain or valley.

AGTTA FRIA. — SUMMIT OF SIERRA MAD RE. — EL MORO.

63

the wagons, helped themselves to a drink. One or two of the servants were invited to join
them, but they declined, knowing that the keg contained alcohol for preserving zoological spe-
cimens, and retaining also a vivid recollection of an order given at the Choctaw Agency that
the spirit should he drugged with arsenic. The news was not agreeable to the drinkers, and
their anxiety was increased by very soon becoming painfully sick. They entered camp, feeling
that they must die, or send for the doctor and expose themselves ; but love of life proving
stronger than fear of punishment, they applied to him for relief. They were informed that the
spirit itself was the only poison they had taken, and the ipecacuanha it contained would soon
relieve them of that. The fright and subsequent jokes of their companions will probably pre-
vent similar depredations in future.

November 17 — Gamp 67. — Started at daybreak ; ascended a hill seventy feet high, and thence
proceeded by a gradual rise eight miles to Agua Fria. The barometric profile gives a grade
greater than that of yesterday, the mean being seventy-five feet, and the maximum ninety feet,
per mile. This could be reduced by increasing the distance. The whole march has been
through a beautiful pine forest, affording timber in abundance. Game is plenty. Antelope,
black-tailed deer, hares, squirrels, and small birds, having been noticed. Our hunters were
successful, and have added several interesting specimens to the zoological collection.

Agua Fria is a permanent spring whose waters gush from a broken bed of lava, flow about
half a mile, and then hide themselves again among volcanic rocks. This is the last stream
upon our route that seeks admission to the Atlantic. Its source is near the summit of Sierra
Madre, 7,760 feet above the level of the sea. "We met here a party of Acoma Indians. They
had been hunting in the mountain forests, and the quantity of game they had killed spoke well
for their archery. They wanted merely to sell us venison, of which we had plenty, and did
not seem disposed to be particularly sociable. We tried to write a vocabulary of their lan-
guage, but the words given were so long and so difficult to pronounce, that we gave up the task.
A few flakes of snow fell to-day.

November 18 — Gamp 68. — Leaving Agua Fria, we turned around the point of a hill and
ascended a ravine to the foot of a bluff ridge about two hundred feet high, leading to the
summit of the Sierra. The usual odometer survey followed the road in its passage over the
crest. With compass and barometer, a reconnaissance was also made by going up the canon to
its head, climbing the narrow divide, passing into a similar ravine upon the western slope of
the Sierra, and rapidly descending to the level at which we commenced. By a deep cut of a
few hundred yards, a railroad might be brought to the head of the canon ; thence a tunnel,
with a slightly ascending grade, would open into the opposite ravine. The distance by the
reconnaissance was about a mile; but, judging by the courses taken, it cannot exceed three
quarters of a mile from the foot of the ridge upon one side to the corresponding point upon the
other. The rock could be easily excavated, as it is a soft though compact limestone. From
the mouth of the proposed tunnel, a very regular slope, averaging for eight miles fifty feet per
mile, led to a wide valley in which we found "El Moro," called by Simpson Inscription Rock.
Here we encamped. This side of the mountain is also covered with timber. The view towards
the southeast shows an apparently unbounded forest. The mesas and valleys westward appear
comparatively barren, though there are scattered clumps of trees and dwarf cedars among the
ravines and upon the slopes. No water was met with till we reached our present camp, about
eighteen miles from Agua Fria.

El Moro is the Inscription Eock so minutely described by Simpson, in 1849. Approaching
its northeast corner, which is rectangular, the cliffs appear truly vertical and smooth to the
height of nearly two hundred feet. Here are found the Spanish inscriptions and the Indian
hieroglyphics. Upon the eastern face the rock projects somewhat like a bastion. At the re-
entering angle there is a semi-cylindrical recess, slightly shelving, and as smooth as if a cascade
had poured for ages over the top. Below is a spring or pool of water supplying the camp ; but
affording barely sufficient for the mules and cattle. The summit of the rock, which is of white

64

EL MORO. — RUINS AND INSCRIPTIONS.

sandstone with a yellowish tinge, is broken, so as to present at a distance the appearance of
turrets, like a Moorish castle; from which its Spanish name was derived. Desiring to see the
ruins upon the top, we walked around the projecting cliff of the eastern face, and at some dis-
tance south found a point where with difficulty we accomplished the ascent. To Simpson's
description of this singular place little remains to he added. The walls of the dilapidated
pueblo, when not concealed by rubbish, bore evidence of having been built with considerable
skill. In some places they still remain perfect to the height of six or eight feet, vertical,
straight, and smooth. A pocket-compass placed upon the principal face, gave for its direction
N. 75° E., which, the magnetic variation being applied, corresponds nearly with the prime
vertical. I have since found that this observation disagrees with that of Simpson, who repre-
sents it as perpendicular to the magnetic meridian. The masonry is well done, the stones being
of uniform size, about fourteen inches in length, and six inches wide. The layers are hori-
zontal, and each successive stratum, with some appearance of regularity, breaks joints with
that below. The beams, whose ends seem broken by a stone axe rather than cut with a sharp
instrument, are of cedar, in excellent preservation. A piece was procured for a specimen.
Scattered about in great profusion were fragments of pottery quite similar to those among ruins
upon the Grila. Arrow-heads of obsidian were also found in the pueblo, affording another link
to connect its founders with those who built the Gila cities. East of Rio del Norte, it has
already been stated that, not an arrow-head of stone nor a piece of painted pottery could be dis-
covered. Here both abound. Upon the opposite side of a deep gorge we saw another dilapi-
dated fortress; and, by a detour to the right, climbing like goats, and sliding down the broken
surface of the rock, we at length found ourselves within it. The walls were rectangular, and
the one upon the north side — which was near the edge of the precipice — in good preservation, at
one or two points, to the height of eight feet. Its direction did not correspond to the cardinal
points. The question arises as to how people could subsist thus upon a naked rock. Two
pools of water have been discovered at its base, beneath overhanging cliffs. They are doubtless
springs ; and, if freed from the sediment they contain, would afford sufficient water for the ordi-
nary uses of the inhabitants, but none for irrigation. It seems probable, therefore, that they
were a pastoral people, or that game was abundant, and that they built here for protection from
powerful tribes of roving Apaches. As we passed the Sierra to-day a light cloud scudded across
the sky, bearing a momentary squall. It soon passed away, and the weather became delightful
as before. The nights, however, are cool. New specimens of mistletoe, cactus, and lichens
were found. Astronomical observations have been made this evening.

November 19 — Camp 69. — The wind last night blew for a while violently. The morning was
cold, with a stiff breeze from the west, but the sun's rays soon created a pleasant temperature.
Ever since leaving Albuquerque, by day, and frequently at night, there has been a westwardly
wind. We had expected to find, upon this side of the Sierra, a change in this respect.

There was a little time, before starting, to examine the inscriptions. We passed by the more
modern records of Spanish origin, from 1620 to 1736, which have been so well represented by
Simpson. Many of them are beautifully carved, and though doubtless faithful in their state-
ment of date, seem but slightly affected by atmospheric action upon the rock. The Indian
hieroglyphics, which we examined more carefully, are, however, much time-worn and defaced —
some scarcely traceable. Comparing the freshest of those with Spanish inscriptions dated about
1690, the obliteration of age upon the former seems at least twice as great as upon the latter.
The place must have been a ruin since the Spaniards first commenced to record upon the rock
their passage to and from Zuiii. The inscriptions do not refer to it ; neither do the relations
of old Spanish explorers, back to the expedition of Coronado in 1540, describe any such pueblo,
unless indeed it be included among the seven cities of Cevola. Some of the sculptured hiero-
glyphics are just discernible, almost wiped out by the finger of time. The plainest were copied ;
but, on subsequent comparison, proved identical with those figured by Simpson.

Upon leaving camp the train passed over a low ridge, which might have been avoided by a

-

BOTANICAL EXCURSION. ANTON CHICO.

41

September 25 — Gamp 52. — Our cattle becoming foot-sore and weary, to avoid leaving many
of them behind, we determined not to move camp to-day, but allow them to rest. Dr. Bigelow
immediately set out upon a botanical excursion. About four miles southwest he struck the
bend of a river, probably the Gallinas, flowing in a canon cut almost perpendicularly through
the plain to a depth of about 500 feet. Following it down, he found cactaceee and other in-
teresting plants so numerous, that the time was beguiled away, and night came upon him una-
wares. We became alarmed for his safety, kindled signal-fires upon the hill, and discharged
guns to direct him in the darkness towards camp. Finally a party went out to search, and met
him on his return weary almost to fainting, with the weight of his herbarium. Numbers of fat
antelope were killed to-day.

September 26 — Anton Chico. — Took an early start ; watching, as we went along, the varying
tints of approaching day, so beautiful in this climate. A mile from camp we crossed the sand-
stone bed of the second branch of Hurrah creek, where there was water in pools. Commencing
the ascent of a prairie ridge, we rose gradually, in three miles, about 400 feet, when we found
ourselves upon the limestone surface of an extensive plain. For a mile or more the road was
smooth^ and then succeeded rolling prairie, beyond which was a forest of dwarf cedars. Fif-
teen miles of survey brought us to the Eio de Gfallinas, a creek with pure running water, but
with neither wood nor grass upon its banks. Passing over an undulating country, we reached
the crest of a hill overlooking the Pecos at Anton Chico. An easy descent led to the valley,
where we found a good crossing of the river, and proceeded to town. After leaving Eio de Gral-
linas, several pools of water appeared by the roadside, and one spring, "a las chupainas,"
(sheep spring); which waters a fertile basin five miles back, where the train was left to encamp
to-night. Large flocks of sheep and many horses were grazing there as we passed by.

Anton Chico contains about five hundred inhabitants. The principal part of the town stands
upon the west bank of the river, upon the first rise of ground above the irrigated fields. The
valley is well cultivated and productive. Behind the town rise bluffs of high table-lands. The
houses, as is usual in New Mexico, are built of adobes,* and are singularly festooned in front
by strings of red peppers — the much prized " chili Colorado" — intended less for ornament than
use. Our entrance was greeted by wolfish-looking dogs — which, by-the-by, are celebrated for
sagacity in guarding sheep — and a large number of children ; the latter dressed in loose cotton
robes, generally torn from the feet to the very neck, and gracefully flowing behind. Having
no other covering, they looked cool, if not comfortable. Our object was to purchase corn, and
obtain from the people information regarding the country westward. No old corn was to be had,
but thousands of bushels of this year's growth were to be purchased at two dollars per fanega.f
As this would be apt to injure grass-fed mules, we thought best to confine them to husks. Few
of the people have travelled the road to Rio Abajo (Albuquerque), and we could gain little sat-
isfaction upon that point. There are two traders residing here; one English, the other Amer-
ican. The alcalde civilly conducted us to the latter, Mr. Kitchen, who entertained us with great
hospitality at his mansion.

* The adobe is made of an argillaceous earth, which is softened with water, and sometimes mixedjwith straw, and fragments
of shells, or pebbles. It is pressed in a mould eighteen inches long, a foot wide, and six inches thick ; and then turned out and
dried in the sun. In building walls, the adobes are cemented together by a mortar made of clay.

t A trifle more than two and a half bushels.

6 h

CHAPTER VI.

From Anton Chico to Albuquerque.

Pecos valley. — Sudden freshet. — Division of party. — Agua Negra. — La Cuesta. — Canon Blanco. — La Laguna. — Town and river of
Galisteo. — Los Cerritos. — Cieuega. — Pena Blanca. — San Domingo. — Indian hospitality. — San Felipe. — Bernardillo. — Pueblo
de Zandia. — Albuquerque.

September 27 — Anton Chico. — At 10 a. m. the train arrived, and. camp was pitched near the
village. Explorations were then made in the vicinity. The general surface of the country-
seems to have heen, originally, an elevated tahle-land. Through this has heen worn a deep
chasm with hluff "banks, which, above the town, rise directly from the river, and form a narrow
canon. As we descend the stream the bluffs recede, leaving a strip of valley and the fertile
basin in which Anton Chico is situated.

September 28 — Anton Chico. — Our cattle drivers yesterday took the wrong road from Sheep
springs, and travelled towards Las Vegas. We sent after them, and late last night they arrived,
after a drive of forty miles. To-day the animals are foot-sore and unable to proceed.

For the purpose of exploring two routes from here to Eio Grande it was proposed to divide
tbe party, one portion to go immediately to La Cuesta, leaving Mr. Campbell to complete the
examinations here, and then continue the survey towards Albuquerque. We sent for our
mules, which were grazing upon excellent pasture east of the Pecos. The messenger returned
reporting that a sudden flood of water had burst through the canon, and swollen the river to
such depth and velocity as to render it impossible to cross. It was nowhere fordable, and
animals could not stem such a current by swimming. We have thus lost a day. At sunset,
however, the water subsided, and tbe herd was safely driven to camp. Such freshets are
frequent upon the Pecos ; occasioned, probably, by rains among the mountains near its source.
A whole family of emigrants, in attempting to cross, a short time since, were overtaken by a
similar torrent and drowned.

September 29. — Tbe party was to-day divided; the main portion proceeding with the survey
direct to Albuquerque, while Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Marcou, Mr. Mollhausen, and Mr. Sherburne
accompanied me to make certain detours north of that line. Following the road we ascended
tbe bluff bank before referred to, and in less than seven miles rose six hundred feet. Upon our
left was a rocky ravine, which probably canoned near the mouth, preventing the road from
following it. At Agua Negra, on the Pecos, thirty miles south, there is a new settlement,
where the crossing of the river is said to be excellent. The idea that a railroad might pass
that way was one great inducement for the establishment of the village. But it is so distant
from the route we have thus far adopted, that it must be left for future examination. From the
summit of the bluff our course led over a somewhat hilly prairie to the entrance of Canon
Blanco. We found that we had passed the trail leading to La Cuesta, which it was our inten-
tion to visit, and therefore turned back, taking a path which seemed to pursue a northeasterly
direction towards that place. It was not a wagon road, tbough a few Mexican carts might
have passed over it, and proved to be rocky and rough. The general surface, however, was
level till we reached the edge of the bank overlooking the river and tbe town. The descent
then, even by the road, was so precipitous that we were obliged to encamp at the top. The
view from this point was singular and beautiful. A cultivated valley, about a mile wide, was
enclosed between bluffs five hundred feet in height. The town, with its plaza and church, rested

en J

LA CUESTA. — CANON BLANCO. — LA LAGDNA.

43

at the foot of the opposite cliff, and the tortuous river, with a border of trees, wound through
rich meadows and fields of ripe corn. A sketch was taken by the artist, while some of us
descended, sliding down on foot, at every turn catching at the rocks and hushes for support.
The barometer escaped many dangers, and was read at the bottom, indicating, as stated, five
hundred feet descent. As we entered the valley a loud clamor was heard from the nearest
rancheros, and we found that the villagers had taken us for a band of Comanches; for this
solitary spot is seldom disturbed from without except by those unwelcome visitors. When their
apprehensions were quieted, and they found us to be Americans, they displayed a singular mix-
ture of rudeness and civility, for they saw we were few in number and unarmed. They insisted
upon our accompanying them to a ball in the village, but at the same time were heard
talking to each other of the "Gringos,"* and joking regarding the outrages that had lately
been committed by their friends upon Americans in Santa Fe. At length they carried their
impertinence to such a pitch that a demonstration was made by our party which showed the
villagers that we had the will to chastise any further displays of it. They immediately apolo-
gized, and afterwards treated us with respect.

Having bargained for ojas, (fodder for mules,) we separated; some to examine the neighbor-
hood and admire the fine fields irrigated by acequias, others to clamber among the rocks for
specimens of minerals and flowers. Many large crosses were noticed erected in the fields,
probably marking the scenes of Indian massacres. At one of the ranchos was witnessed the
operation of making syrup from cornstalks. The machinery was perfectly rude. A hollow
log six feet long was placed on end to receive the broken stalks. Below was a grooved plank
to lead the expressed fluid to a trough. Upon the stalks was placed a circular block of wood,
and above a stick, upon which rested the trunk of a large pine tree, forming a lever for the
press. The end of the tree nearest the tub was confined to a post by a pivot, and upon the
other end were mounted the men and boys of the neighborhood, whose weight served as a living
force to crush the stalks and separate the sap, which was afterwards boiled to the consistency
of molasses.

September 30. — The mules having had plenty to eat during the night, we were enabled to
leave camp at daybreak. Many Mexicans visited us even at that early hour, and were remark-
ably polite and communicative, not having forgotten the lesson we gave them. La Cuesta lies
about two miles north of the main road, which we followed yesterday. This country having
been so well delineated by Simpson and Abert, it seemed unnecessary to divide the astronomi-
cal instruments. We therefore left them with the train, trusting to the odometer, compass,
and barometer to fix our points. From La Cuesta to Canon Blanco the country is moderately
level, and rather sparsely covered with small cedars and pines. The camp fires of the main
party were found at the entrance to the canon, where small pools of water had been discovered.
The train had passed on before our arrival ; proceeding through the gorge, and thence to La
Laguna, where we overtook it and encamped.

This little lake is in a slight depression of the prairie near the summit dividing the waters
of the Rio G-rande from the Pecos. It affords sufficient water for trains, and for the flocks and
herds grazing in the vicinity. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail for two months.
A properly constructed tank at this place would receive a sufficient quantity of rain to render
it a permanent reservoir.

As we approached La Laguna this evening, a storm sprang up on the Zandia; and, notwith-
standing a strong easterly wind, soon enveloped us. The thermometer went down to 45°
Fahrenheit, and the rain fell in large drops, mingled with hail. The poor mules, loosed from
the harness, cowered before it. In two hours the shower had passed, but clouds, fog and wind
remained the whole night. The sentinel and mules were sent to a thicket of cedars about a
mile from camp for shelter. Eight thousand sheep passed here yesterday from Albuquerque,

* Gringos: a Mexican terin of contempt.

44

GALISTEO. — LOS CERRITOS.

to graze somewhere in the neighborhood during the winter, from which it may be inferred that
a moderate climate, with little snow, characterizes this region.

October 1. — Our party was again divided ; one portion carrying on the survey direct to Albu-
querque, while another proceeded to make examinations towards Galisteo.

For two or three miles the latter route passed over an undulating country, and then led to a
ravine, which conducted us for several miles in a straight course, along a descent inappreciable
to the eye. An adobe house indicated permanent water near, and the name "Canon Co-
manche" suggested a reason why the "building was tenantless. Passing three trifling spurs, we
traversed pleasant valleys among mesa heights to the head of a branch of Rio Galisteo. The
stream at this place threads a narrow gorge, the road passing over a small rocky ridge fifty
feet high. Descending, we crossed the brook, a few feet wide, and followed its bank. Accord-
ing to the Mexicans, it is five leagues from the crossing to Galisteo. Pursuing the valley three
or four miles beyond, another branch coming from the left united with the former, making a
good-sized stream, but so sluggish that its current was scarcely perceptible. At the junction
of the creeks the country spreads out into extensive prairies, nearly enclosed by distant hills.
We now saw the Gold mountains, west; the Santa Fe mountains, north; and towards the
northwest the distant range of the Jemez mountains beyond Rio del Norte. Continuing along
the wide valley, we came to a much larger affluent which was called Arroyo de la Xara, coming
from the northeast. The distance between its bluff banks was from one hundred to one hun-
dred and fifty feet, and a wide open valley seemed to extend uninterruptedly in a westerly
course to the Rio del Norte. The lofty mountains beyond that river now stood in bold relief
before us, not a hill intervening. Crossing a little ridge, we came in sight of a lake, beyond
which were the brown adobe walls and white church gable of the village of Galisteo. The true
Rio de Galisteo, proceeding from the north, washes the foot of the town, and soon after unites
with Arroyo de la Xara on its course to the del Norte. We encamped near the plaza, and were
soon after visited by Major Weightman and Judge Baird, direct from Albuquerque, on their
way to the county court at San Miguel.

The country traversed to-day appeared to be an extensive plain ; but by barometric observa-
tions, we find ourselves seven hundred feet below La Laguna. The distance is estimated at
twenty- eight miles. Grass and water were abundant, but there was scarcely a tree to be seen
along the road. Judge Baird says, that in the canon from San Antonio to Albuquerque,
through which he has just passed, there are beds of good coal. Timber is abundant upon the
mountains.

The long storm which commenced on our arrival at Anton Chico has entirely passed away.
The evening is calm and mild, the sky cloudless, and, as usual in this climate, meteors fre-
quently shoot across the heavens, leaving behind long trains of light.

October 2. — Having despatched a messenger to Santa Fe with an official letter for the mail,
we took leave of Galisteo. The main road to Albuquerque, or Rio Abajo, as it is here called,
passes through the gold mines, San Antonio, and the canon ^,t Carnuel. Few have business
leading them directly to the mouth of Galisteo river. Those who do, travel on foot or horse-
back, following a trail about thirty miles along the valley, which, cut up by small ravines, is
not favorable for wagons. There was said to be a road, on the mesa to the right, commanding
a good view of the stream, and this we proposed to follow. Crossing a creek, we ascended to a
high prairie, and for four or five miles pursued a northerly course towards Santa Fe". Then,
turning north 75° west, we continued fifteen miles farther to Delgado's rancho, called Los
Cerritos, from the small rounded hills surrounding it. Near by are several springs boiling
from the ground, and furnishing a perpetual supply of water. The basin in which they are
situated proves, on examination, to be the crater of an extinct volcano. Here the road forks,
and the one to the left, which we desire to take, is said to be impassable from some temporary
cause. The other is very rough and more circuitous, it being five leagues by it to San Do-
mingo. Therefore, as we could not accomplish the march before dark, it was thought best to

CIENEGA. PEN A BLANCA..

45

encamp. The day and night have heen beautifully clear. The thermometer read at sunrise,
34° ; at sunset, 54° Fahrenheit. Excellent melons and grapes are found here^said to have
been brought from Rio Abajo.

October 3. — Leaving the basin, we ascended a ridge that overlooked a singular spot. Occupy-
ing the oval-shaped crater of another volcano was a village, in the centre of which were two
lava cones sixty feet high, one of them surmounted with a stone tower, as a defence, we were
told, against Comanches. The well-cultivated fields were surrounded by hedges, and watered
by numerous springs. Adobe houses, strung, as usual, with chains of red peppers, were scat-
tered among them, and gaily-clad Mexican rancheros could be seen sunning themselves in front.
We descended a rocky declivity, and entered Cienega, or Cieneguilla, as it sometimes is called.
Winding circuitously among the irrigated fields belonging to the ranchos, we then crossed a deep
arroyo to the wagon trail, called by the villagers, as we thought improperly, " Camino Real."
Along the banks of the arroyo were cultivated fields, a number of houses, and a church. At
the end of three miles two branches came in, and the cliffs, three hundred feet in height,
approached and confined us within a canon. Pursuing a general southwest course three miles
farther, upon the sides of the ravine we found trap, lava, and scoriee, and upon the smooth
faces of broken rocks were carved numerous hieroglyphics representing the sun, animals, foot-
prints, &c. We also met with several new species of plants. At length we emerged into the
open country we had not intended to leave, which stretches to the base of the G-old mountains,
and is watered by Rio G-alisteo on its passage to the del Norte. Cliffs at the terminus of the
gorge were composed of coarse white sandstone, worn into the most perfect representation of a
colonnade. Leaving the canon, we had a level country to the valley of the Rio del Norte,

Entrance of Santa F6 river to the valley of Rio Grande, near Pefla Blanca.

which we entered at Pena Blanca. Passing this town, we descended the valley about four
miles to the crossing of the Rio Galisteo, three quarters of a mile above its mouth. According

46

SAN DOMINGO. — SAN FELIPE.

to the barometer, the bed of the stream was here about one thousand feet below the village of
that name. The channel is sandy, and several hundred feet wide, evidently bearing much
water at certain seasons. The flowing stream is now only a few feet in width ; but is said to
feed the acequia that irrigates the cornfields, gardens, and vineyards of the Indian pueblo of
San Domingo, which lies below the junction of the two rivers. This pueblo bears a strong
contrast to Mexican towns; exhibiting, at a distance, considerable architectural effect. A good
description of it is given by Lieut. Abert in his report on New Mexico. As we entered, an
Indian came forward and offered us the hospitalities of his house ; supper and a bed ; and showed
us fields where he said our mules could graze under their protection. Such hospitality is not
uncommon among them. We encamped, and received a visit of welcome from the governor and
numbers of his people ; and afterwards returned some of their calls; having to climb ladders to
obtain access to our friends' houses. They received us with great civility, generally offering us
tortillas and melons to eat. We then visited the estufa. The building stands in an isolated
spot, and in form is cylindrical, with a flat roof. Mounting to the top by means of a ladder, we
then descended through a hole to a circular room some 30 feet in diameter. A fire-place with
expiring embers, a candlestick, and something like a censer, were the principal contents. It is
used as a council chamber, and for dancing ; and here are performed all the mystical rites of
their religion. To the simplicity of the estufa, the church offered a strong contrast. The
massive doors were emblazoned with armorial bearings. The vigas of the roof were carved and
gaudily painted. Above and around the altar were images of saints — some of fair proportions,
others of Lilliputian dimensions, but in very good preservation. There were paintings of
various degrees of merit. On many the hand of time had made severe ravages. The canvass
had decayed, and the figures had faded into faint and undefined shapes. Under a fair name
they would doubtless sell for a good price in the New York market. The most curious object
noticed was an ox-skin banner, apparently very old, and painted to represent, in profile, a singu-
lar figure; with buckler and shield, visor, lance, and sword, complete ; riding at full speed
over prostrate warriors, whose upturned faces expressed great consternation. Below, somewhat
defaced, was an inscription, but the governor hurried us away before we had time to copy it.

October 4. — We bade adieu to our hospitable friends, and after travelling a league had passed
Covero, and were in front of the Indian pueblo of San Felipe. Standing upon the opposite
bank of the river, it presented a pretty appearance ; but we did not cross over to examine it.
The church with two towers, and houses surrounded by fruit-trees, were similar to those of San
Domingo. At this po'nt, bluffs of diluvial drift approach the river on both sides, and were
formerly united by a, bridge. Upon the west bank a mesa, two hundred feet high, with a pre-
cipitous front, bounds the valley, and overhangs a lesser plateau, upon which the town is built.
Thence it seems to extend south, nearly to the Jemez valley. On the eastern side a similar form-
ation, coming down from the mountains, is broken into gravel-hills, and gradually diminishes
to a spur which juts into the valley at a height of about fifty feet above the river, which here
flows over a rocky bottom, good for foundations. There would be no difficulty, therefore, in
selecting a route for a railroad from some point in the Galisteo valley to this place, crossing to
San Felipe, and thence proceeding along the foot of the bluffs southwest to the river Jemez.

Following the left bank of Rio del Norte, or Rio Grande, as it is now generally called by
Americans, we passed Algodones, a small Mexican town, and thence, through Bernardillo, cele-
brated for the excellent wine produced from its vineyards, to the Indian pueblo of Zandia, near
which we encamped. A crowd of good-natured Indians soon appeared, offering for sale fruit
and poultry at an extravagant price that would have astonished a Jew. But if they were hard
at a bargain, they were honest and kind-hearted.

October 5 — Albuquerque. — Took the upper road along the edge of the gravel hills, leaving the
wide valley and numerous ranchos to the right. Ten or twelve miles from Zandia we entered
the town of Albucpuerque. The white wagons and tents of our advanced party were nearly as
conspicuous as the village itself, and we drove towards them to meet our companions. All had

ALBUQUERQUE .

47

arrived safe and well. The surveying party report that they passed through a deep and narrow
canon at Carnuel ; but that it would not be impracticable to cut through it a passage for a rail-
way, and thence proceed to the Kio Grande near this place with a grade of eighty feet to the
mile.

Albuquerque contains a less population than Santa Fe. Its situation, however, is more cen-
tral with regard to the inhabited portions of New Mexico, and it has been selected by General
Garland for the headquarters of this military department. Nearly the whole valley of Rio del
Norte is capable of yielding good crops ; but between Bernardillo and this place are the finest
ranchos and vineyards to be found in the Territory. The number of inhabitants in Albuquerque
and its environs, including the ranchos, is estimated at 2,500. This is exclusive of Atrisco,,
which lies opposite upon the right bank of the river. The houses are of one story, built of
adobes, and the appearance of the town is similar to that of others in New Mexico. The pres-
ence of the troops, however, creates an unusual air of animation about it.

CHAPTER VII.

From Albuquerque to Pueblo de la Laguna.

Detention upon Rio Grande for supplies. — Plotting of notes. — Information regarding the country west. — Sitgreaves' route. —
Walker's route. — Aubrey's route. — Employment of guides. — Geological reconnaissance to Zandia mountain and to the gold
mines. — Examination upon the Del Norte for a suitable place for a bridge. — Pueblo of Isleta. — Bosque de los Pinos. — Military
post at Las Lunas. — Arrival of Lieut. Ives and party from El Paso. — Magnetic and astronomical instruments. — Remarks upon
the mode of using them. — Division of the party. — Continuation of the survey via Isleta to Rio Puerco and the San Jose
valley. — Direct route from Albuquerque to Rita. — Coal in the valley of Rio Puerco. — El Alamo. — Ruins of Rita. — Rancho
Colorado. — Pueblo de la Laguna.

November 7 — Albuquerque. — Upon our arrival here, Indian depredations and anticipated
troubles upon the Mexican frontier caused considerable excitement throughout the Territory.
The troops were actively employed in scouts or in preparations for serious encounters. General
Garland, the commanding officer of the department, being upon a tour of observation in the
southern portion of the Territory, the acting commissary remaining at this post was unwilling
to take the responsibility of diminishing the supply of stores on hand, by furnishing the sub-
sistence required for our party for the remainder of the survey. Not being able to purchase
elsewhere, we were obliged to await the return of the commanding general. He arrived on the
21st ultimo, and immediately directed every assistance to be granted us that his department
could afford. Provisions have been received, and arrangements this day completed for our
departure.

During the detention referred to, the party has been actively employed in operations incident
to the work. The notes of the survey from Fort Smith have been plotted and sent to the
department at Washington, thereby duplicating the work and diminishing the chances of losing
the results of our labor. Our means of transportation have been made as complete as circum-
stances would permit. Information regarding the country we propose to traverse, has been
derived from every available source. By the Topographical Bureau we had been furnished
with a tracing from Captain Sitgreaves' map of a reconnaissance to Rio Colorado in 1851 ; and
here we have had intercourse with persons from each party of white men known to have visited
the region near the line of our proposed operations. Mr. Antony Thomas very kindly has
made for us a sketch, from memory, of Mr. Walker's route in 1851, upon which extraordinary
difficulties were encountered. Mr. Tully, a companion of Mr. Aubrey in his recent trip from
California, has given a description of the country over which he passed. Mr. Aubrey himself
has since confirmed the statements of his friend, cautioning us to avoid his trail as being unsuita-
ble for our operations. We have conversed with Jose Manuel Savedra, a New Mexican who pro-
fesses to have accompanied the Moqui Indians upon an expedition against the Mojaves ; and
also with the guide Antoine Leroux. The information derived from these sources regarding the
country between Zuni and the Colorado river is exceedingly unfavorable ; but as no one has yet
traversed the entire route designated in our instructions, it is possible that the difficulties
encountered by other parties may be avoided by our own. In order to omit nothing that may
contribute to success, we have secured the services both of Leroux and Savedra for the journey.

Several reconnaissances have been made during our stay here, in the vicinity of Rio Grande.
The botanist and geologist passed through the canon of Carnuel to San Antonio, and ascended
to the top of Zandia mountain ; which, from measurement by triangulation from Albuquerque,
is found to be seven thousand feet above the valley of the river, and twelve thousand feet above

NAVAJO INDIANS. — LITHODENDRON CREEK.

73

counted, nor does any one seem to know how many families occupy the same dwelling. Different
authors, therefore, vary in their estimates for this place from 1,000 to 6,000 persons. Mexicans
say that in joining them in expeditions against the Navajoes, there have heen known to turn
out 1,000 warriors. Leroux agrees with me that this is doubtless an exaggeration. Navajoes
are said to be more numerous. Jose Hacha thinks they number five to one of the Zuiiians.
Gregg and Simpson estimate their number from 8,000 to 10,000; but by Leroux's standard
there are less than 1,000 warriors, and not more than 5,000 persons in all. Speaking of Nava-
joes reminded our Zuhian warriors of their battles, which they recounted with great spirit.
Five years ago their pueblo was threatened by a large body of Navajoes from the east. The
Zunians met them at the ranchos near our Camp 69, and fought from sunrise to near sunset.
But the crafty enemy had laid a snare to destroy the pueblo, and while the braves were engaged
at a distance, a stronger force approached by the Moqui trail, thinking to enter the town with-
out resistance. But our war-chief told us, with pride, that the women and children successfully
defended their homes until the return of the men at night.

November 30 — Camp 74. — Leaving Jacob's well, we proceeded about 5° north of west, eight
miles to Navajo spring, a fine pool of water which breaks out at the surface of a valley. The
Indian guide had no trail to follow, but pursued a course so straight as to pass over several
small ridges that might as well have been avoided by a very slight detour to the right. But
the country was good, and the road for wagons excellent. Two of the guides left, as was
arranged, this morning, to convey our message to the caciques of Moqui. They seemed highly
impressed with the importance of their mission, and it is hoped that they may succeed in obtain"
ing for us a guide. At camp are relics of extensive ruins. Pottery, painted in stripes, broken
into very small fragments, and much decayed, is strewn about the spring. Upon the first hill
is a circular depression, forty paces in diameter, like one seen last year at the junction of Bio
San Pedro with Bio Gila. Around it are pieces of glazed pottery, and arrow-heads of obsidian,
agate, and jasper. The structures were probably of adobes, which would be likely to leave
only faint traces of their existence.

At sunset a smoke was seen in the distance, and, soon after, two Navajo Indians rode into
camp. They said they were hunters from the Canon de Chelly ; but, learning that we were
lately from Zuiii, they were afraid of taking the smallpox, and soon left.

December 1 — Gamp 75. — The first day of winter opened bright, with an elastic exhilarating
air, though it was the coldest morning we have had. Since leaving the base of Sierra Madre,
disagreeable winds have ceased to annoy us ; the atmosphere has generally been clear, and tbe
temperature charming during the latter part of the day and in the evening.

Our course has been nearly west. Five miles from Navajo springs we crossed the wide valley
of Bio Puerco of the west, and an arroyo dry except in pools. Thence, passing another ravine
and prairie ,we entered the valley of Carriso creek ; where, twelve miles from our last camp, we
halted. The bed of the river contains pools, but tbe water does not flow above the surface.
The road has crossed two prairie ridges about one hundred and thirty feet above the sandy bed
of the arroyo. By deflecting the course they may be passed with light grades. Thus far we
are agreeably impressed with the character of the country on the Pacific slope of Sierra
Madre. We have not yet encountered waterless deserts such as have been supposed to exist in
this region. The distant peaks of Jemez, northeast, and of Sierra Mogoyon, south, appear to
be tipped with snow. There are no indications of a cold climate elsewhere within view.

December 2 — Camp 76. — Leaving Carriso creek we proceeded nearly west, over a prairie inter-
sected by open valleys from the northeast, to bluffs bounding Lithodendron creek. Here the
steep sandstone rocks were difficult to descend, and the ascent westward looked still more formi-
dable. "We therefore turned towards the south, and after following the mesa about live miles
encamped upon the ridge separating two valleys; Lithodendron upon the right, and a smaller
valley a short distance to the left. The banks of Lithodendron creek are forty feet in heighl .
and composed of red sandy marl. The width between the bluffs seems nearly a mile. The
10 h

74

PETRIFIED FOREST. VALLEY OF LITTLE COLORADO.

country westward still looks rough. Near camp are found ruins of stone houses, and fragments
of painted pottery. Half a jar curiously indented was shown to Savedra, who pronounced it
more ancient than the rest. In one place the crumhling hanks expose a well-built wall that
must have been founded several feet below the present surface. Quite a forest of petrified trees
was discovered to-day, prostrate and partly buried in deposits of red marl. They are converted
into beautiful specimens of variegated jasper. One trunk was measured ten feet in diameter,
and more than one hundred feet in length. Some of the stumps appear as if they had been
charred by fire before being converted to stone. The main portions of the trees have a dark
brown color ; the smaller branches are of a reddish hue. Fragments are strewn over the sur-
face for miles.

Petrified tree near Litliodendron creek.

Now the soil produces no timber ; the scrub cedars even have disappeared. For the last three
days dry twigs of chamisa have been the only fuel available for camp fires.

December 3 — Camp 77. — Having passed about three miles farther along the crest, the banks
of Lithodendron creek afforded a passage into its wide sandy bed. For about half a mile we
followed the stream, which flowed beneath a surface of wet quicksands, in which our wagons
often sunk to the hub. This was the most fatiguing part of the journey. Some distance
below there were indications of a more favorable crossing. Should it be required to bridge the
creek there are plenty of sandstone slabs, quarried as it were, and fit for use. Following the
right bank for half a mile we emerged from the sandstone canon, and found ourselves upon the
edge of an immense valley — that of the Colorado Chiquito — extending towards the south and
southwest apparently twenty or thirty miles. The soil appeared of dark loam, covered with
grass. A few miles below was seen a line of alamos, indicating the junction of a stream from
the northeast, which we supposed to be Rio Puerco of the west. Doubtless this should have
been followed from the place where we crossed it, although Savedra says that it passes through
a canon. For a railroad it appears that, from this point eastward, the route should ascend the
Puerco to near its head at Ojo del Oso ; thence, turning the heights of Sierra Madre by Camp-
bell's pass, pursue Agua Azul to Rio San Jose. The country we have travelled is probably
superior in richness of soil and abundance of water ; but, as regards the grades, the other would
be preferable.

From the entrance to the wide valley referred to we turned westward, and eight miles beyond
the crossing of Lithodendron creek, finding numerous Tagunas of fresh water and good grama,
we encamped. With water for irrigation, such as in this region artesian wells might afford,
the soil would yield abundantly. This valley is at the same altitude as that of Rio Grande at
Albuquerque. Hence there is probably less rain here than at Zuhi, aud crops would require
artificial watering. The advantages of this country for grazing, however, cannot well be sur-
passed. With two hundred mules, besides beef-cattle and sheep, we are able to camp where

SHEEP-GRAZING. — RETURN OF ZUNI GUIDES FROM MOQUI.

75

we please, without fear of the want of grass. Formerly New Mexico, according to Gregg,
exported annually 500,000 sheep for mutton alone. Twice that numher could douhtless have
been sheared. The wool, allowing two pounds per fleece, and that it is worth forty cents per
pound, would be worth $800,000, and would pay every year to a railroad company a handsome
freight. An improved breed of sheep would produce wool of more value, and there scarcely
need be a limit to the number that may graze upon this region. Nature has furnished grass,
sufficient water, and a climate most favorable to this purpose.

Many petrified trees have been seen to-day, their woody texture faithfully preserved in silex,
producing jasper variegated with rich and bright colors. Many specimens have been collected
by members of the party for seal rings.

December 4 — Camp 77. — This has been a day of rest. Lieutenant Tidball, with the addi-
tional escort from Fort Defiance, not having yet overtaken us, it seems proper to move slowly.
Mr. Campbell discovered upon the low lands near camp traces of ruins quite similar to those on
Eio Gila. Among them he found an arrow-head of jasper, and a sort of earthen amulet. The
buildings must have been of adobes, differing in that respect from the walled pueblos previously
seen upon mesa heights. Those of Moqui are said to be upon hills more than a thousand feet
above the surrounding plains. Barricaded passes, like those at old Zuni, lead to the top. It
was probably a powerful enemy that drove the people from watered valleys to arid heights,
notwithstanding their strange tradition of a flood.

December 5 — Camp 78. — Another bright morning, calm and cloudless, followed a cool night.
The water in the lagunas of Lithodendron creek was abundant, though deeply colored with red
marl. Taking an early start, the pack-train following the guide and the wagons as usual in
rear, we proceeded about eleven miles over a slightly undulating prairie, covered with grama de
china, to the bed of a river coming from the north, to which we gave the title of Leroux's fork.
By a gradual descent we crossed this stream, and encamped near its junction with Colorado
Chiquito. The valley of the last named river is very wide, reminding us forcibly of the bottom
land upon Bio Gila. Like that, the soil is good, and, with irrigation from the river, might be
cultivated to advantage. The barometer shows our present camp to be eighteen feet below
Albuquerque. The day has been uncomfortably warm for travelling ; the thermometer at 3
p. m. reading 65° Fahrenheit. Camp is beautifully situated in a cotton-wood grove, upon the
bank of Bio Colorado Chiquito. This stream was called "'Bio del Lino" (Flax river) by Coro-
nado, in 1540. Mezquites of small growth line its banks. A porcupine of an unknown variety
was secured to-day by Dr. Kennerly, our zealous naturalist. Jose Hacha took leave of us this
morning to return to Zuni. He had despaired of meeting those sent to Moqui, but this evening
they came prancing into camp. Every one was glad to see them, and their arrival created
quite an excitement. Their mission had been performed, but no Moqui guide could be obtained.
The smallpox had swept off nearly every male adult from three pueblos. In one remained
only the cacique and a single man from a hundred warriors. They were dying by fifties per
day ; and the living, unable to bury the dead, had thrown them down the steep sides of the
lofty mesas upon which the pueblos are built. There wolves and ravens had congregated in
myriads to devour them. The decaying bodies had even infected the streams, and the Zunians
were obliged to have recourse to melons both for food and drink. The young of the tribe had
suffered less, few cases among them having proved mortal. Juan Septimo brought for us seve-
ral excellent robes of wild-cat or tiger skin, such a,s the Moquis wear in winter.

December 6 — Camp 79. — Our Zuni guides left us this morning to return, and the survey pro-
ceeded along the right bank of the river for fifteen miles. Several dry ditches were crossed,
the banks of which it was necessary to cut down, thus creating a few hours' detention. It was
dark when camp was reached. The valley of the river continues to be several miles in width,
and the soil, like that of Bio Gila, would doubtless be excellent for maize or cotton. The
stream is now small, but rapid; its waters are fresh and clear, and sufficient for the irrigation
of a considerable portion of the low lands that border it. Its sinuous course through the bot-

76

TAMPAIS INDIANS. — NAVAJOES. — RUINS.

toms is marked by a line of small alamos. The gravelly prairies that hound the valley are in
some places thinly spread with grama; in others, barren. Great quantities of broken pottery
have been found. A portion appeared to have been water-worn, as if from a flood, and the
patterns were somewhat different from any we have before noticed. Some were ribbed in par-
allel lines ; others wavy, but not in joints. Arrow-heads neatly made of jasper were found
entire. The foundations of houses were also sometimes traceable.

December 7 — Camp 80. — We pursued a course a little north of west, still traversing the wide
valley, towards the snowy peaks of San Francisco, which for several days have been visible.
Sand and light soil, like ashes, rendered the journey heavy for the wagons. Finding a favorable
spot we encamped early, having made but 8| miles. Mr. Marcou says we are now below the
Jurassic and Lias formations, and that geological indications are in favor of the development
of coal-beds south of our route.

A spur of the Mogollon mountains, which lies nearly southwest from us, is said to be peopled
by warlike Yampais. Our guide, Savedra, has recounted various reminiscences of their bravery
and daring. A few years since he joined a party of Moquis and Mexicans for the purpose of
stealing children for slaves. Upon entering this country, they were met and attacked with such
fury by the Yampais that the whole party fled.

In passing through the Navajo country the natives have kept quite aloof from us. Therefore,
as one of our Mexican herders from Covero understands their language, a vocabularly of it has
been obtained from him. A few years since, while he was playing at Covero spring, he was
captured by Navajoes. For nine months he was a prisoner, and followed the Indians in
their wanderings. He accompanied a party of one thousand warriors through the Moqui coun-
try, and afterwards spent much time among their rancherias in the famous Canon de Chelly.
Their fields are numerous, though cultivated by women alone ; no man ever condescending to
lend a helping hand. Their numbers, he says, no one can tell. They are thickly spread from
Canon de Chelly to Eio San Juan, and he believes them equal to the whole population of New
Mexico. These statements are noted as they were given, without vouching for their accuracy.
One ought to deduct an allowance for the exaggeration usual among this people. It is very
probable that the size of the tribe exceeds the usual estimate. Their wealth, by his account,
consists of immense flocks and herds. Some of the rich men own one thousand horses each,
besides mules, cattle, and sheep.

s> December 8 — Camp 81. — Plodding along through sand and light soil — sometimes threading
the wide valley, at others crossing gravel ridges that bounded it — we made five miles, and
encamped. We had crossed the deep bed of a well-wooded tributary flowing from the north-
east, called Cotton-wood creek. Nearly opposite could be seen the junction of an affluent from
the southeast. The Colorado Chiquito here branches into a net-work of channels, all bordered
with alamos. Below camp is quite a forest, extending about four miles down the valley. From
a high hill two miles back from camp the river can be seen making a great bend, and sweeping
northward. There we propose to commence a reconnaissance westward towards the southern
slope of San Francisco mountain, hoping to avoid the circuitous course by the river.

December 9 — Camp 82. — At the usual hour we left camp, and proceeded a mile and a half,
near to the great bend of the river, where we encamped. Near by is the remnant of a ruin as
extensive as any yet seen. An isolated hill of sandstone is the foundation of this ancient pueblo,
which was doubtless similar to those at Ojo Pescado. In few places are the faces of walls visi-
ble above the debris of stones, vigas, and pottery. The colors of the latter are black, red, white,
and yellow, worked into a variety of figures, but representing no animals. The indented kind,
said to be so very ancient, is here found in many patterns. A stone axe and several pretty
arrow-heads of obsidian or carnelian were picked up from the ruins. The pueblo, as well as
could be ascertained, was rectangular, one side nearly east and west, 120 feet in length ; the
other, 360 feet, nearly in the true meridian. The walls were in some places ten feet in thick-

STAMPEDE OP THE MULES. — ARRIVAL OF LIEUT. TIDBALL.

77

ness, with small rooms inserted within. Scattered around were timbers of pine, which resem-
bled rafters. Two posts, about twelve feet in height, were still standing in good preservation.

The camp-fires are bountifully supplied with fuel from piles of drift-wood of pine, such as
grows in this country only upon mountain slopes. It must,, therefore, have been brought by
freshets from spurs of Sierra Mogoyon, among which the Colorado Chiquito takes its rise.

December 10 — Camp 82. — Last night there occurred that dreaded calamity of the prairies, a
stampede of the mules. The herd was quietly grazing, when suddenly a pony took fright; and,
creating a panic among the animals, all fled. Their heavy tramping awoke us ; and, seizing
arms, we rushed out, thinking that Indians were the cause of the disturbance. The night was
so dark that nothing could be seen at a distance, and we followed the sound. At length a body
of mules was overtaken and brought back. The whole herd was supposed to be recovered; but
at daybreak it was found that many were missing. The ground about camp exhibited no trace
of Indian footsteps ; and at length it appeared that the animals had taken the back track at
full run towards Zuni. The swiftest were gone ; only the tired and lazy remained. But a
party, without waiting for breakfast, was quickly mounted and in pursuit, hoping to overtake
them before they might fall into the hands of the Indians. If not driven, it was not supposed
the mules would run far without halting, but they did ; and, as time passed without tidings,
party after party followed the trail. For thirty-two miles they continued the pursuit ; and
then, overtaking the frightened horses that led the herd, turned them back. One of the mules
had broken a leg in leaping an arroyo. Another had wearied herself out. The rest were
driven to camp.

December 12 — Camp 82. — We have been obliged to await here to allow our mules to recover
from th,e fatigue of their stampede. This has enabled Lieut. Tidball to overtake us with the
escort from Fort Defiance. He arrived this afternoon, bringing letters for many of us; a favor
as welcome as it was unexpected.

CHAPTER X.

From the Little Colorado to New Year's Spring.

Departure of reconnoitring party. — Cafion Diablo. — Pine forests. — San Francisco mountain. — Leroux's spring. — San Francisco
springs. — Cosnino caves. — Return to the train. — Leaving the Little Colorado. — Christmas in the mountains. — Proposed routes
to the Colorado. — Another reconnaissance. — Bill Williams' mountain. — New Year's spring. — Extensive view towards the
west. — Black forest. — Continuance of explorations. — Return to New Year's spring. — Arrival of the train.

December 13. — Lieutenant Jones, Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Campbell, Mr. White, Mr. Hutton, and
myself, with thirteen soldiers, started on the reconnaissance. Crossing to the left bank of the
Colorado Chiquito, a course nearly west led us through a fine portion of the valley, where were
groves of cotton-wood, and vestiges of an old acequia. But the river soon turned towards the
north, and we passed directly over a ridge to an extensive valley, with an ill-defined bed of a
stream ; the water, except during freshets, passing beneath the surface. This arroyo comes
from the southeast ; and, according to Leroux, there is water above, and plenty of beaver.
But trappers have seldom ventured to explore in that direction, on account of the great num-
bers of Indians in the vicinity. A short distance beyond, we came upon a broken country, gen-
erally prairie, but interspersed with dry ravines and cedar thickets. About twelve miles from
camp we stopped in one of the pleasant groves, beside a horizontal ledge of sandstone, which in
cavities contained water. There we took supper, and grazed our mules till dark ; then con-
tinued the journey, trusting to have a bright moon for a guide. But evening produced flying
clouds and showers, and the rain concealed the mountains, by which we desired to direct our
course. After travelling an hour and a half as nearly west as occasional glimpses of stars
would admit, the storm triumphed : so we tied our mules to bushes ; and, for the night, threw
our blankets upon the lee side of one of the sandstone cliffs, which form a singular feature in
the landscape of this region. They are high table-rocks — like little islands in the plain, the
remnants of horizontal strata — twenty to thirty feet above the general surface of the prairie.

December 14. — At four o'clock this morning the full moon showed the earth about us man-
tled with snow. The storm, however, had passed, leaving the sky clear, and the atmosphere
cold. Having proceeded four miles west, over prairie, we were all surprised to find at our feet,
in magnesian limestone, a chasm probably one hundred feet in depth, the sides precipitous, and
about three hundred feet across at top. A tliread-like rill of water could be seen below, but
descent was impossible. There was not the slightest indication of a stream till we stood upon
the brink and looked down into the canon. For a railroad it could be bridged, and the banks
would furnish plenty of stone for the purpose. Beyond, upon the course where we wished to
explore, the country looked like a nearly level prairie, to the foot of the southern base of the
San Francisco mountains. But, finding no means of crossing the canon with our pack-mules,
we followed the right bank for a passage, proceeded to its junction with Bio Colorado Chiquito,
and encamped, about twenty-five miles northwest from where we left the wagons. The valley
is here wide, and thickly covered with good-sized alamos. The river, which we crossed in
order to find a better camp-ground, is two and a half feet deep, and from ten to twenty yards
wide. It flows rapidly, furnishing plenty of water for irrigation. The canon which inter-
rupted our march to-day has been named Canon Diablo. Near its junction with the river val-
ley was seen a great quantity of dark volcanic ashes, and it is possible that the channel, seem-
ingly cut in a level bed of dolomite, may have resulted from the decomposition of a trap-dike.

SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN. PINE FORESTS.

79

December 15. — Having sent messengers to the wagon camp, desiring Lieutenant Ives to con-
duct the survey by the river to this point, we recrossed Colorado Chiquito, and turned again
westward, towards the peaks of San Francisco mountain. From the edge of the prairie which
hounds the river hottom, hy a generally gradual ascent, we passed a mesa, and at midday
reached a glen, one side of which was lined with dolomite, the other hy a hed of lava. Beyond
we traversed a sort of tufa, sometimes nearly knee-deep to the mules. Within the next eight
miles we rose in regular steps upon wave after wave of volcanic rock, and then entered a system
of conical peaks, heautifully regular. One among these had a hroken crest, and a stream of
lava which once poured out from it had heen arrested and cooled in its serpentine course. A
short distance heyond, a few hranching cedars furnished shelter and fuel for a hivouac. Grama-
grass has heen excellent and abundant over nearly the whole of the route traversed to-day. All
were fatigued with the march, and as we had brought with us water for the men, and the snow
covering the ground was sufficient to satisfy the mules, we felt independent of springs, and
encamped.

December 16. — The largest of the volcanic hills referred to yesterday appears five hundred
feet high, with a crater at top. A well-beaten Indian trail winds up the side, showing that
there must be water in the basin above, or some other special attraction upon the summit. We
continued our course westward for two miles, and then climbed a volcanic hill where we had a
fine view of the mountains, now free from clouds. Between the southern base of San Francisco
and a long spur stretching northwest from the Mogoyon, the same gap or opening that we saw
from Camp 82 was again apparent. We therefore turned southwest in that direction. For
some distance thickets of cedar had skirted our road ; now we entered a forest of pines extend-
ing over a large tract of country from south to north. It is a species of yellow pine, called by
the botanist Pinus brachyptera. The trees are tall, straight, and sound ; from one to three
feet in diameter, and from sixty to one hundred feet in height. They are the same that are
used for timber throughout New Mexico. In that dry climate no complaint is made of its want
of durability. Now we are evidently in a region of more moisture ; and Douglass spruce, which
is also abundant upon the sides of the mountains, would afford a better material for railroad
ties. Having travelled fourteen miles, we encamped m the pine forest, near the edge of a beau-
tiful patch of grassy prairie that swept into a valley eastward. Beyond, no hills seemed to
intervene between us and the point where, three days since, we turned to descend the Canon
Diablo. The grade from thence is apparently quite regular, and would probably average from
thirty-five to forty feet per mile. We have found no water since leaving Colorado Chiquito. Snow
yet lies upon the ground to the depth of about an inch, and supplies the present need. A large
herd of antelope was seen yesterday, and to-day we have followed the trail of at least one hun-
dred. Upon the hill behind camp a broken jar has been found, the only recent trace of Indians
yet seen. Tufa and volcanic scoria are still abundant. The rocks are metamorphic sandstone.
The hills are covered with Qorvania Stansburyania, a shrub which Mexicans call " Alusima."
With them it is a valuable medicine, used particularly in complaints of hemorrhage.

December 17. — At 9 a. m., leaving our bivouac upon the hill-side, we followed a wide, valley -
like opening southwest, towards the southern point of the San Francisco mountain. Having
gradually ascended two hundred feet in five miles, we found ourselves upon the dividing ridge
separating the waters of Colorado Chiquito from those flowing into the Gila. Thence appeared
a smooth, grassy valley sloping towards the south ; and beyond, a magnificent view of a vast
forest, covering a wide space, and extending as far as we could see, probably fifty miles distant.
Towards the east were several volcanic hills, generally isolated like those we passed among
yesterday. Looking back, we saw the same generally plain surface which appeared so inviting
from Camp 82. At such a distance, it is true, minor depressions would be invisible ; bul there
was every indication to warrant the belief that, in that direction, fewer difficulties would be
encountered than upon our trail. In the course sought at first appeared a long valU\> and none
of the volcanic hills around which we have wound.

80

SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN. — LEROUX'S SPRING. — RIO VERDE.

San Francisco mountain, so often referred to, is a huge volcanic pile, with several conical
peaks near the centre, elevated to the heignt of at least a mile ahove its hase. From the east,
its axis appears to extend from northwest to southeast about teD miles, where it is terminated by
a gigantic mass of granite. The steep slopes are everywhere covered with a dense growth of tim-
ber, spruce and pine, extending nearly to the highest pinnacles. From the base eastward, are
alternate groves and prairies broken by numerous volcanic hills. Upon old Spanish maps the
San Francisco mountain is represented as belonging to the continuous Mogollon chain, which
comes from the east-southeast, and was called Sierra de los Cosninos, the name of a tribe of Indians
inhabiting this region. We now find a division between the two ranges affording the desired
passage. To search for water, this being our third day without it, we turned the southwest
point of San Francisco mountain, and, avoiding the valley on the left, kept upon the spurs close
at its foot. After travelling about seven miles, we reached a permanent spring that poured
from a hill-side and was lost in the grassy plain below. In honor of the guide it was called
Leroux's spring. It is the same to which he conducted Captain Sitgreaves two years since, but
by a different route, passing around the north and the western base of the mountain.

The grass is covered with snow, except in spots among rocks on the hill-sides, and the poor
mules can scarcely satisfy their hunger. From our last bivouac we have passed through groves
of magnificent pines, intermingled with cedars and dwarf oaks. Some of the latter may be
large enough for railroad ties, and perhaps might be found more plenty in other parts of this
extensive forest region. The spruce trees would afford a supply for this purpose. The cedars
are of a new species, and are frequently two feet in diameter. They bear a sweet berry which
Indians gather for food. Upon the more elevated mountain slopes, beside the Douglass spruce,
there are tall pines of a species different from those that grow upon the plains below.

December 18. — Two years ago, when Leroux was here with Captain Sitgreaves, the hills
were covered with savages, who occasioned them considerable annoyance by hostile demonstra-
tions. But thus far, since leaving the Navajo country, we have not seen the fresh track of a
wild Indian. The snow is untrodden, except by beasts and birds, which afford plenty of game.
Antelope, deer, hares, and turkeys, are abundant; also a singular species of striped squirrel,
which Dr. Woodhouse was the first to find in this region.

Well content with the results of the exploration, at 1 p. m. we turned back for the train.
Following the course of the open, meadow-like valley, irrigated by the waters of Leroux's
spring, we passed southeast and east about four miles, and discovered a small stream flowing
towards the great southern valley, and forming probably the main branch of Rio Verde.* It is
fed by springs. The barometer indicated a descent of two hundred feet from Leroux's spring.
From the San Francisco springs we passed over a spur from the hills, and encamped near the
southeast point of the mountains, having travelled about six miles.

Snow upon the hill-sides is much less than yesterday, many spots now being bare. Grass is
therefore not so scarce. Our bivouac is somewhat elevated upon the slope from the foot of the
mountains, and looks over the dark forest before mentioned. Leroux thinks he can distinguish
in the distance, south, blue peaks of mountains lying near Rio Gila.

A breeze renders the air chilly, but with a semicircle of green boughs, and a blazing fire in
front, we do not feel the need of tents.

December 19. — At 9 a. m. we continued our backward march, to a point near the bivouac of
December 16. Here we turned more to the right, and, from the prairie valley before men-
tioned, found an arroyo leading eastward towards Canon Diablo. Turning from this, we crossed
a low lava ridge and entered a grassy meadow. Skirting a forest of cedars and pine, we de-
scended the arroyo to a sudden breaking away of the rocks, which produced a fine place for a
waterfall, and a short canon below. Water was still standing in pools above, and beneath

* This stream was called by Leroux Rio San Francisco, from the mountain near which it takes its rise, and it is thus desig-
nated in the report of Captain Sitgreaves. The early Spanish explorers gave it the name of Rio Verde, which is still retained
among the Mexicans of the present day, and appears upon modern maps. As there is another affluent to the Gila known as
the San Francisco river, it would seem proper, if only to avoid confusion, to preserve the original appellation.

COSNINO CAVES. — RETURN TO THE TRAIN.

81

appeared to be springs. As grass and fuel were excellent, and as there were good trees for
shelter, we encamped, having made ten miles.

Descending one side of the fissure which forms the canon, we found within the rock quite a
number of caves in the shape of ovens, opening towards the stream. They showed unmistake-
able signs of volcanic origin. The cavities were regular, and covered with a vitreous substance,
hard, and brownish-black, like iron. They had been artificially plastered, and some of the
largest were divided by walled partitions into separate apartments. The principal rooms were
ten feet across, and where the adobe floor was not covered by debris, the height was about six
feet. Within, and communicating with these, were smaller caves still more like ovens, and
doubtless used as dormitories. The walls were laid with care, and the plastering of the ceiling,
which remained in patches, seemed to have been done rather skilfully. Upon the rocky hill
above, and in the canon, were fragments of pottery, some painted black and white, others
indented. The caves seem to have been unoccupied, except perhaps by an occasional visitor,
for a long period. The entrances to several are choked by heaps of disintegrated rock. Nev-
ertheless, we call them "Cosnino Caves," after the tribe that roams over this region. The
fresh trail of a small party of them has been seen to-day.

December 20 — Camp 87. — Taking a course about north 60° east, we crossed the arroyo, and re-
crossing below at a large water-hole, passed a small ridge into a valley apparently descending, by
a gradual slope, north 50° east to Kio Colorado Chiquito. We kept more to the right, and after
traversing a nearly level prairie, made an abrupt descent over precipitous banks to the river,
which we reached after a march of seven hours from Cosnino Caves. We struck the river at a
deserted camp of our party, and were surprised to find that the trail from there turned back-
wards. They had returned a mile and a half to a better place for camping, and were there
awaiting our arrival. Lieutenant Ives had brought the survey about thirty miles down the
river, from Camp 82, where we had left the train. The party was in good spirits. Another
stampede of the mules had occurred. One dark night they took fright, and ran six miles before
they were stopped. In their flight, some plunged headlong over each other into Canon Diablo,
and the men in pursuit narrowly escaped breaking their necks.

We passed to-day a rocky eminence where were found stone enclosures, apparently intended
for watch-towers and for defence, similar to those formerly seen near Ojo de la Vaca, between
Eio del Norte and the Grila. Broken jars were also found, painted in stripes. At the wagon
camp below are hieroglyphics upon the rocks, representing men and beasts — one of the former
having a snake about his head. Among other symbols, is one resembling the notched stick
found at the ancient Zuni altar.

December 21 — Camp 87. — We have remained in camp to-day in order to rest the weary mules.
Good grama-grass is found upon the high table-lands .

Dr. Kennerly has labored hard to catch a fish in the Little Colorado, and has at last been
rewarded by a single specimen. Fortunately it is of a new species.

December 22 — Camp 88. — Turning our backs upon Eio Colorado Chiquito, we travelled south
60° west nearly direct towards Cosnino Caves. The ascent was gradual, with ;i generally
uniform slope, eleven miles, to a point of lava, where we encamped, having risen nearly six
hundred feet above the river. Our loaded wagons passed without difficulty, and made an
excellent road. Around camp grama-grass is abundant, and nutritious as usual. The decom-
posed black lava, called in Mexico 'cmal pais," affords the best soil for the production of this
grass. Our camp is without water, though a few miles beyond is an arroyo with alamos and
willows, generally indicative of a flowing stream.

December 23 — Camp 89. — We continued our march in the midst of a snow-storm. It was a day
of toil for the wagon mules, as snow gathered in balls upon their feet, causing them to Blip and
stumble badly. We passed a few small hills, and after fourteen miles' travel arrived at Cosnino
Caves, which proved to be between seven and eight hundred feet above our last nun p. T lie
11 h

82

CHRISTMAS EVE. — SAN FRANCISCO SPRINGS.

road which the wagons made was very hard and good. If there were no snow, a train follow-
ing could make the march from Colorado Chiquito, twenty-five miles, in one clay, with ease.

December 24 — Camp 89. — Having a sheltered spot on the edge of a forest, with plenty of
water and grass, it was deemed necessary for the welfare of the mules, upon which we are so
dependent, to rest till Monday. The weather in the morning was very cold, the thermometer
at sunrise reading 3°. 5 helow zero. Later in the day the sun's rays were warm and powerful,
melting the snow upon the southern slopes. Several of the party went out to hunt turkeys and
other game, thinking to have a feast, hut were quite unsuccessful. They found plenty of tracks
in the snow. One young hunter got upon the trail of a hear; hut the foot-prints were so enor-
mous that he preferred to return to camp.

Christmas eve has heen celehrated with considerahle eclat. The fireworks were decidedly
magnificent. Tall, isolated pines surrounding camp were set on fire. The flames leaped to
the tree-tops, and then, dying away, sent up innumerable brilliant sparks. An Indian dance,
by some ci-devant Navajo prisoners, was succeeded by songs from the teamsters, and a pastoral
enacted by the Mexicans, after their usual custom at this festival. Leroux's servant, a tamed
Crow Indian, and a herder, then performed a duet improvisatore, in which they took the liberty
of saying what they pleased of the company present — an amusement common in New Mexico and
California, where this troubadour singing is much in vogue at fandangoes. These last entertain-
ments are interesting to a stranger from their singularity. The plaintive tones of the singers,
and the strange simplicity of the people, lead one's fancy back to the middle ages. In this state
of society, so free from ambition for wealth or power, where the realities of life are in a great
measure subject to the ideal, there is a tinge of romance that would well repay the researches of
a literary explorer. Their impromptu ballads alone would make an interesting collection.

December 25 — Camp 89. — Christmas dawned upon us with the thermometer nearly at zero;
but the day lias been pleasant, and the snow is rapidly disappearing. Nineteen mules strayed
last night, but all have been recovered. No fresh signs of Indians appear since the late snow.
Cosninos are said to roam from Sierra Mogoyon to the San Francisco, and along the valley of
the Colorado Chiquito. Their number has been estimated by trappers at ten thousand — prob-
ably a great exaggeration.

December 26 — Camp 90. — The morning was again clear and very cold. The pool of water
in the canon below the caves seems to be supplied from a spring. It has afforded sufficient for
our large herd, above 200 mules, and appears to suffer little diminution. The fact of a good-
sized Indian village having been established in the vicinity, is in itself a strong indication that
the water is unfailing.

At 9^ a. m. we struck tents, and pursued our journey; the surveyors, as usual, in rear of the
train. The route was nearly the same as that pursued in returning from the reconnaissance,
and was quite easy, except the passage of the narrow ridge before described. Twelve miles led
us to the southern base of the San Francisco mountains, where we encamped, from five to six
hundred feet above Cosnino Caves. The intention was to have gone on to the San Francisco
springs, some three and a half or four miles farther; but, by some mistake or misapprehension,
the advanced party encamped here without water.

December 27 — Camp 91. — Travelling through the crusted snow became so fatiguing to the
mules, that it was necessary to add to the force of some of the teams. This could be done only
by abandoning a wagon, and one was therefore left behind this morning. We crossed a nar-
row spur from the mountain some fifty feet in height, and in two hours reached the springs of
San Francisco. Water there was abundant, flowing rapidly south, through an extensive grassy
basin, towards the great valley of forest before mentioned. Thence we ascended a ravine, which,
in one place, narrowed to a canon, and, after travelling six miles, reached Leroux's spring. In
the canon, fallen trees and rocks obstructed the passage for wagons. To avoid them, the guide
led the way over a rocky hill from sixty to seventy feet in height. In a day our party could
have rolled away the rocks and made a good road. For a railway, it would be necessary to cut

COUNTRY WESTWARD. — RECONNAISSANCE.

83

through two salient points, or it might be more economical to keep nearer to the foot of the
mountain, so as to avoid the canon entirely. A short distance south the whole country looks
level, and may, perhaps, he still better adapted for the location of a railway. Leroux says that
we can neither proceed west nor southwest, on account of successive mountains and canons. He
desires us to follow the route by which he led Capt. Sitgreaves' party two years ago, or to go
even farther to the north. There, he says, we may keep upon the dividing ridge until we reach
the mountains that border the Colorado upon the west, pass thence, and enter the valley. Sa-
vedra has crossed over that country, and represents it as a barren and nearly waterless prairie.
There seems to be another objection to this route — the very advantage that Leroux ascribes to
it — viz: the "keeping up" for so long a distance. We must now be about three degrees of lon-
gitude east from Kio Colorado, and nearly seven thousand feet above the nearest point. A
uniform slope the whole distance would require a grade of forty feet to the mile. To keep upon
the ridge, as he proposes, would diminish the distance at so great an expense of grade as to be
objectionable. We therefore propose to follow Bill Williams' fork, which Capt. Sitgreaves
has represented as rising near this place, and flowing west-southwest into Rio Colorado.

The hill-sides are now nearly divested of snow, and there is plenty of grass for the mules.

December 28 — Gamp 91. — Our weary mules again requiring rest, we have not moved camp
to-day. A small party made a reconnaissance four or five miles southwest to a volcanic peak,
700 feet by barometer above its base, from which the view was extensive. Towards the north
and northeast were Mount Kendrick and Mount Sitgreaves. Southwest we saw Bill Williams'
mountain, where the stream of the same name is said to take its rise. Towards the south was
a range of hills, which seemed to form the western boundary of the great valley of Rio Verde.
Westward were lesser hills, with plains between, and dim mountains in the distance, all white
with snow. But there we are determined to explore for a passage to the Colorado. Turning
back towards camp, the snowy peaks of San Francisco, towering, like spires, above a huge pile
of mountains, looked grand and imposing. Dense forests of pine surrounded the base. Spruce
and pine covered the slopes near to the foot of the conical spires, where appeared to be a pretty
well defined curve, supposed to be the "limit of pines," found, by measurement, to be 4,1G9
feet above the valley at Leroux' s spring.

December 29 — Camp 91. — There being several cases of varioloid in the party, and the sur-
geon deeming it imprudent to remove the sick, we have remained in camp another day. This
morning, the summit of San Francisco being visible, the triangulation commenced yesterday
was completed. The height above Leroux' s spring was found to be 4,673 feet, making it about
12,000 feet above the level of the sea. At noon, the temperature of the spring, where it issues
from the hill-side, was measured. The immersed thermometer read 48°. 4; 3°. 2 higher than
the surrounding atmosphere. That is probably the mean temperature of the place. The water
pours, in several streams, down the ravine, producing a fringe of green herbage. The valley
below has a dark loamy soil, luxuriant in grass. It would make a superb plantation. This
spot could easily be irrigated, should not the climate prove sufficiently moist to render that pro-
cess of watering unnecessary. The hill-sides are covered with excellent grama, and tufts of it
are now beginning to appear above the snow on the plain. Neither last night, nor to-day, has
the temperature been below the freezing point.

December 30. — Dr. Bigelow, Mr. A. H. Campbell, Mr. White, and myself, with Leroux for
guide, and Lieut. Tidball escorting us, set out upon a reconnaissance westward. We passed from
Leroux's spring, north of our reconnoitring peak, and crossing a wooded ridge 150 feel in height,
descended gently into another prairie, where at the foot of a grassy hill we bivouaced for the night.
Our distance from Camp 91 is eleven miles. The barometer places us eleven feet below thai sia
tion. Snow covers the ground to the depth of eight inches, with a crust upon the surface, which
is the only real obstacle our wagons can encounter thus far upon the march. For a railway the
country is excellent. With a slight cutting at the summit of the ridge, which, near reconnoi-
tring peak, divides two valleys — one sloping east, the other west — the road would be nearly level

84

CONTINUATION OF RECONNAISSANCE. — NEW TEAR'S SPRING.

for the whole distance. On the hill ahove us an extensive view is obtained ; north-northwest,
hills and plains are seen, destitute of snow.

December 31. — We continued our march through the long prairie that we crossed yesterday.
It is surrounded by pine forests, and nearly enclosed by volcanic hills. The snow being from
three to eight inches in depth, and covered with a hard crust, our mules, for several hours,
made slow progress. Afterwards we entered a forest of pines and dwarf oaks, with large cedar
trees bearing sweet berries. The snow becoming soft and less deep, we progressed more rapidly,
and at 1\ p. m. bivouaced upon a hill-side, where abundance of bunch-grass, quite green, and
cedars for shelter and for fuel, afforded a fit resting-place for the night. From the top of the
hill we could distinguish the vicinity of Leroux's spring, lying due east at a distance estimated
at twenty miles. The surface between is nearly level. Looking west and southwest appeared
an open country, with imperfectly defined valleys, among a dense growth of cedars ; but it was
difficult to say in what direction was the slope. A blue mountain range some fifteen or twenty
miles distant limited the view. From south to south-southwest, about ten miles from us, was
Bill Williams' mountain, the highest in this vicinity. North and northwest were black vol-
canic hills, and a high prairie devoid of snow, and nearly destitute of trees. Below the hill
where Ave stood was a ravine, in which were indications of water. Men were sent to explore,
and soon brought the agreeable news of having found a spring. This was of service to the
mules, as snow does not satisfy their thirst. This last piece of good fortune determined us to
send back to Lieut. Ives, desiring him to continue the survey, and bring the train to this
place. The barometer places us about four hundred feet below Leroux's spring. We therefore
seem to be truly on the slope towards Kio Colorado.

January 1. — The morning was bright and clear. Upon leaving camp, we visited "New
Year's spring," about a mile west. It was a pool ten or twelve feet in diameter, with water
twenty inches deep, below a stratum of ice three inches thick. The amount of water was not
perceptibly diminished by what the mules had drunk during the night. It therefore appeared
to be a permanent spring. Proceeding southwest towards Bill Williams' mountain, we over-
took our pack-train, which had been watered from another pool said to be larger than the first,
about half a mile from last night's bivouac. Five miles beyond were indications of other
springs to the right, with many Indian trails leading in that direction. After travelling about
twelve miles, we spread our blankets beneath a cedar tree three miles west of Bill Williams'
mountain. Good grass and timber are found here; but we have failed to reach the waters of
Bill Williams' fork. From a hill west of camp, we saw a valley upon the right of our trail
which looked like a favorable route, provided it should be necessary for the train to go down to
the stream we are in search of; but the long range of mountains west, extending from north-
west to southeast, still seems to be unbroken.

We are now near the trail of Capt. Sitgreaves, who passed around the southern base of Bill
Williams' mountain, and thence proceeded towards the west-northwest, in the direction of
Yampais creek. Lieut. Tidball has taken a sketch showing the Sierra de la Laja and Picacho,
some twenty-five miles distant, between which the trail crossed. A chain of blue hills appears
in the distance, and extends towards the south-southeast ; its crest evidently preserving nearly
the same altitude ; but the descent of the valley along its foot causes the southern portion,
represented in the sketch, to appear a formidable range. The drainage of the ravines is towards
the Picacho, through a generally level country, containing prairies mingled with copses of pinons
and cedars. The soil being of decomposed volcanic rock, is rich; and, judging from the vegeta-
tion which covers it, must be well watered. Capt. Sitgreaves, according to Leroux, found this
region to be a plain intersected by numerous and difficult ravines. The country beyond proved
to be an elevated prairie, considerably broken, and nearly devoid of water and wood, forming a
dreary jornada. The grass, though nutritious and abundant, was parched, indicating a long
drought. The soil was so light and porous, that there appeared little chance of finding water
in pools. After a laborious and uncomfortable march of eighty miles, on the fourth day they

EXTENSIVE FORESTS. — VALLEY OF EIO VERDE.

85

reached two small springs, to which they had heen conducted by a Yampais Indian, captured
by them a short time before. These springs furnished but a scanty supply of water, and no
more was found till their arrival at Yampais creek, twelve miles beyond. A difficult range of
mountains, besides two barren and extensive plains, were crossed, and a second range ascended,
before a view of the Colorado was obtained ; the descent to the river being then very abrupt.
From Leroux's description, it would not appear that this route offers many facilities for a
railway.

Black Forest, Pichaco, and mountains north of Aztec Pass.

The region from San Francisco mountain to this place contains much volcanic sand and sco-
riaceous rock, quickly absorbing rain, and melting snow. Springs doubtless exist in many
places, but being now covered by snow and ice, cannot easily be found. Pine forests, inter-
spersed with prairies, seem to extend towards the south to the blue mountains that are just vis-
ible above the horizon. The appearance is somewhat similar to the Cross Timbers upon the
Canadian. Our camp is on a dry branch of Bill Williams' fork, and, according to the barome-
ter, 400 feet below the bivouac of last night.

January 2. — Turning south and southeast along the channel of an arroyo, in half an hour
we found pools of water. Willows growing upon the banks seemed to indicate that it was per-
manent, though melting snows have probably added to the usual quantity. Keeping our course
three miles over a prairie which sloped from the southern base of Bill Williams' mountain, we
again found water which supplied the train. We then followed Leroux in search of the main
stream, to a point which he recognised as being near Capt. Sitgrcaves' Camp No. 21. Here
we saw the ravine in which the creek flowed south, and followed a branch about lour miles to a
point of hills, where we again encamped. The stream below us flows in a canon lot) feet deep.
'Ascending a hill half a mile south, we saw an immense and beautiful valley, into whieli the
creek enters from the mouth of the canon, about four miles distant. The valley is striped with

86

TOPOGRAPHICAL HILL. — BILL WILLIAMS' MOUNTAIN.

timber and prairie, and extends from north-northwest to south-southeast. It seems to he a
well-watered region, and a winter retreat of Indians, for several smokes were seen there. Upon
the slopes of the hills we find in the vegetation an agreeable change from that of the higher
country we have left. Agave Mexicana is quite abundant. It is the beautiful American aloe,
or Century plant, called in this country mezcal. The Apaches roast it for food ; Mexicans dis-
til from it a spirituous liquor.

The weather is warm, and the snow has nearly disappeared, but the gravelly soil is every-
where so saturated with moisture as to make travelling difficult. The mules sink in the mire
at almost every step, half way to their knees.

The barometer places us a thousand feet below Leroux's spring.

January 3. — A stampede of the mules took place last evening, indicating the approach of
Indians or wild animals ; therefore, although we regained the mulada, the night was passed
with watchfulness and anxiety lest our neighbors might make another attempt to leave us on
foot ; but we were not again disturbed.

A mile west from our bivouac No. 4, we ascended a ridge called Topographical hill, where
we had a view still more extensive than that noted yesterday. We can now trace the great
valley, as well as the western ridge of mountains which bounds it, far towards the north-
northwest. A mesa mountain towards the southeast has been named Sierra Tonto. South-
southwest is Sierra Prieta, with indication of passes upon both sides of it. From thence,
northerly, extends a range with a snowy peak near the centre. Nearly west is seen "Picacho."
Intervening is a low ridge, covered with a dense growth of dark cedars and piiions, which we call
the " Black Forest." This seems to divide the drainage of the valley — one system of streams
flowing south-southeast to Rio Verde ; the other towards the west and southwest, probably to
the Colorado. That upon which we encamped last night belongs to the first system, and there-
fore may not be Bill Williams' fork, as at first supposed. At all events, it passes far towards
the south. Our bivouac No. 3 was upon a branch which appeared to flow westerly, more in
the direction of our route. Therefore, to explore it, we took a course north 70° west, descended
into the valley, and, after travelling about ten miles, encamped upon a creek where were large
pools of water. Small alamos and willows cover the banks. Grama-grass is abundant in the
vicinity. We now seem to be below the region of pines, and of the sweet-berried cedars. Red
cedar is, however, abundant; larger and finer than before seen. There are also numerous
piiions with esculent nuts, affording food for wild beasts as well as for Indians. We have
seen to-day black-tailed deer, rabbits, and quails; also foot-prints of many antelope and bears.
The barometer gives our camp nearly the same altitude as the valley of Rio Colorado Chiquito,
and of Rio del Norte at Albuquerque.

January 4. — Proceeding in a generally northwest course, we crossed several arroyos, one of
which contained deep pools of wa,ter ; and, after travelling about fifteen miles, encamped near
the head of a dry ravine, among hills of red sandstone. Volcanic rock, or " mal pais," as it is
appropriately called by Mexicans, has entirely disappeared. Upon our left is a valley leading
around these hills, and the indications seem favorable there for the passage of the wagon train,
supposed now to be encamped at New Year's spring. We therefore ascended the ridge, and
endeavored to communicate with the main surveying party by preconcerted signals. But hills
intervened, and prevented our smokes from being seen.

January 5. — Leaving our dry bivouac, we passed up the valley mentioned, and ascended a
higher hill to reconnoitre. From that point we had an extensive view in the direction towards
New Year's spring, but saw no indication of camp-fires. We then turned eastward, followed
up a long valley, crossed a low ridge, and from a ravine ascended to the hills, in order to catch,
if possible, a view of smoke, which might at least direct our course to the train. Soon the forest
became so dense that, not only could we not see beyond, but could scarcely make our way
through. At length, having travelled about fifteen miles, we came to the end of the range, •
and saw Bill Williams' mountain before us. To the east-northeast were several volcanic hills,

KETURN TO NEW YEAR'S SPRING. — MEETING WITH TRAIN.

87

and at the foot of one of them was New Tear's spring. Here again, at sunset, we made the
usual signal, but fruitlessly, as before. Unable to account for this, we had many misgivings
with regard to the safety of our friends. The loss of mules by an Indian stampede is the great
danger to be apprehended in a country like this. A plan for that purpose, well concerted by
savages, is almost sure to succeed; and, however strong the sufferers may be, pursuit on foot
is hopeless.

In a ravine at the foot of the hills we bivouaced. All the arroyos crossed to-day were dry;
but as we have ascended some eight hundred feet, there is now snow upon the northern slopes,
supplying water sufficient for our men. Some mules, when thirsty, eat snow readily ; others will
not.

January 6. — A cold sleet was blowing into our faces this morning, and it awoke us before
daybreak. The cedars in this instance proved less comfortable quarters than tents would have
been. Having again made signals from the hill, and watched in vain for smoke of camp-fires,
with considerable anxiety we turned eastward. On the way, water was found in canons of the
valley ; but without stopping, we travelled over broken ground, frequently strewn with ped-
rigal, fourteen miles, to New Tear's spring, where, to our delight, we found the main body
encamped.

The peaks of San Francisco mountain are again white with snow. A sheet of the same also
tips the summits of Mt. Kendrick and Mt. Sitgreaves. But the valley westward, with its grassy
slope and border of pine and cedar forests, forms a pleasing contrast to the wintry-looking region
which we are now prepared to leave behind. During the eight days we have been absent from
the main party, we have travelled, according to our estimates of distances, only ninety-six
miles ;* but the labor in wading through snow and soft gravel has been greatly fatiguing to
the mules. We have, however, examined a large extent of country. The long mountain
range that lies west of the Black Forest remains for a subsequent exploration.

January 7 — Camp 94. — The day was passed in camp to rest the mules and have them shod.
A triangulation was made to fix the positions of mountains and hills that can be seen from this
place. The usual series of magnetic and astronomical observations were taken.

Savedra has returned from a three days' reconnaissance to the northwest, upon the trail that
he thinks he followed when he accompanied the Moqui Indians some years ago. He reports
that he has now travelled thirty miles in that direction without finding any indication of water.

* Subsequent examinations proved our estimates about one third too small.

CHAPTER XI.

From New Year's Spring to Pueblo Creek.

Lava spring. — Cedar creek. — Partridge creek. — Game. — Reconnaissance towards Picacho mountain. — Picacho springs. Val de

China. — Turkey creek. — Pueblo creek. — Aztec mountains. — Aztec Pass. — Return to Pueblo creek. — Ruins of ancient pueblos
and fortresses. — Arrival of train.

January 8 — Camp 95. — Having resumed our journey, we proceeded over a country with a
generally uniform slope; appearing beautifully smooth at a distance, hut cut up hy ravines
which made rather laborious work for the train. At a distance of ten miles from New Year's
spring, at the head of a canon formed by the breaking up of a bed of lava, we found a magnifi-
cent pool of water, and there encamped. The basin was about thirty feet in diameter, and
covered with ice half a foot thick. Holes were cut to allow the mules to drink; and a pole
eight feet long inserted to measure the depth, but the bottom was not reached. In furnishing
the supply required for camp, no visible depression was made. It was not so with New Year's
spring. During the four days that the party was encamped there, the water was several times
consumed, and snow was melted to aid in furnishing a supply.

The average descent to-day has been about fifty feet per mile. With moderate cutting and
filling the grade could be made uniform. The wagon road, now that it is broken, would be
quite good for a train following. The astronomical observations were interrupted by clouds.
This was particularly regretted, as thereby was lost an occultation of Saturn by the moon.

January 9 — Camp 96. — Our course from Lava spring, nearly west, was for three miles over a
country similar to tbat travelled yesterday. We then commenced the descent of an arroyo ;
which, soon entering a rocky ravine, compelled the train to ascend the side of a hill, about one
hundred and thirty-five feet, to the summit of a ridge. A dense growth of tall cedars and
pinons covered the ground, and while most of the party were scattered through it in search of a
gradual slope for a favorable descent, the train moved on and rushed down the steep side of the
ridge, nearly upsetting some of the wagons. It would have been easy to have passed by a
ravine that was found to the right. Having travelled ten miles, we encamped in the valley,
near a cedar grove, where we found good grass as usual, and a patch of snow upon the hill-
side which supplied us with water. The geologist found iron pyrites to-day ; also fossils, in
carboniferous limestone. As coal lies between this formation and the new red sandstone, which
occurs a few miles distant, it is possible that a bed of that useful mineral may exist in this
region. The total descent in ten miles has been 500 feet.

January 10 — Camp 97. — We traversed the fine valley of Cedar creek, and passed westwardly
over an almost inappreciable ridge into a wide ravine; which, by a gradual descent, led into
the great basin of the Black Forest. Thence four miles south brought us to large pools of water
in a rocky glen called Partridge creek. It is believed that water exists here at all seasons. Our
camp ground is excellent ; possessing, as usual, rich grama-grass, and large cedar trees for fuel
and shelter. Came is abundant. A black-tailed deer and many partridges were killed to-day.
The latter have been seen in great numbers. Upon their heads are tufted plumes, like those
of the California partridges. Tracks of deer, antelope, bears, and turkeys are numerous.
Hares and rabbits are frequently started from their hiding-places upon our trail. Singularly
colored gophers, rats, and mice are found in hollow trees and crevices of rocks.

The volcanic hills and streams of lava we have traversed put our magnetic instruments to
great confusion. To-day, a compass having been placed upon a small boulder of compact lava,

PARTRIDGE CREEK. — PICACHO MOUNTAIN.

89

the needle was completely reversed, the south end pointing north. Astronomical observations
were taken with the transit, moon culminations being observed. There has been a descent of
560 feet in the thirteen miles from last camp. Carboniferous sandstone was to-day passed over.
As this should be contiguous to the coal formation, beds of the latter may exist in the vicinity,
cropping out or covered by volcanic rock. Fossils have been found by the geologist.

January 11. — It appeared necessary to leave our late reconnoitring trail, and again explore
towards the southwest. There seemed to be a break in the mountain range near Picacho, and
it was decided to examine in that direction. Fearing, however, to move the whole train, with
the uncertainty of finding water ; with ten men for an escort, we recommenced the reconnais-
sance. Following Partridge creek, nearly south, six miles, we found large pools of water at
distances of a quarter of a mile from each other, with numerous recent Indian lodges along the
banks. The ravine turned eastward, and appeared, after making a long, semi-circular bend, to
follow the northern base of the Black Forest ridge towards Picacho ; we therefore bivouaced
under wide-spreading trees upon the banks where we were ; determined on the morrow to pass
directly over the wide level prairie to that mountain. As this place is excellent for a camp, we
have despatched a trusty Mexican to conduct the train hither, where it will await other messen-
gers or signals from us as we advance.

January 12. — The water-hole at last night's camp, though smaller than many seen, was
from two to three feet deep, some twenty feet long, and three or four feet wide. The botanist
found there, and at other pools upon Partridge creek, the water-plant "Polygonum amphib-
ium," which, he says, never grows except in places permanently moist. He believes that now
the water is in its lowest stage. All the old hunters and trappers of the party find signs leading
to the same conclusion. This is an important fact. Only springs or tanks can be depended
upon for a supply of water in this region of volcanic rock.

Leaving Partridge creek, which flows south 65° east, we turned towards the southwest and
west over a smooth prairie, about eleven miles to the southeast base of Picacho. There finding
pools of water, we again bivouaced among our favorite cedars. Within the last two miles we
have crossed several arroyos, containing water in holes, which, about a mile below, seem to unite.
From a spur of the Picacho the view is very extensive and beautiful. ■ This mountain proves to
be indeed the southern terminus of the range to which it belongs, and beyond is a broad smooth
valley sweeping towards the south-southeast, and extending in that direction to the verge of
the horizon. "Westward of this is the long range of mountains which was before noticed from
the head of Bill Williams' fork. We can now, as then, trace it from Sierra Prieta, with-
out apparent interruption, to where it seems to be blended with high mesas towards the north-
west. The ridge of the Black Forest bounds this valley on the east, and separates it, for a long
distance at least, from that in which flow the streams that rise at the base of Bill Williams'
mountain. Between that ridge and the Picacho is an opening, the outlet of the great plain
we have crossed, and where the streams which water it converge. By this opening we may
enter the broad valley above mentioned; but how to pass the western chain of mountains is yet
to be determined. Towards the south-southwest there is a conical peak that appears volcanic,
and near by are mountains, apparently of stratified rock, as if overlapping. Although no gap
can be seen from any point of view we have had, yet it is possible that a nearer approach may
show some break in the chain. The smoke of Indian fires proves at least that there is a likeli-
hood of finding water in that vicinity. The conical peak we call Mt. Hope. Leroux proposes
to keep up towards the north-northwest, believing we may find an easy passage over the ridge
in that direction. Although this will probably lead us to Captain Sitgreaves' trail, which lu>
reported as mountainous and without water for eighty miles, it was determined, for the lirsl
exploration, to follow the guide. As plenty of water had been found near by, we wished the
rear party with the train to follow and await us here. Upon the hill, therefore, we made a
smoke, as we had agreed upon, for a signal; but saw no sign in reply. .Much game has been
seen to-day ; antelope being particularly numerous.
12 h

90

VAL DE CHINA. — RETURN TO PICACHO.

January 13. — From the hill we again raised a huge column of smoke, hut, as no answering
signal was seen from the wagon-camp, two soldiers were despatched to conduct the train from
that place. Leaving Picacho springs we entered the great valley, several miles in width, and
ascended it ten miles towards the west-northwest. The hills here closed in, contracting the width
to ahout half a mile. After having travelled a short distance in what appeared to be a sort of
gorge uniting the main valley to another seen beyond, our mules became weary, and we stopped
for the night. This is the most dreary camp-ground we have had. There is neither water nor
wood. Our blankets, with saddles for pillows, have been placed in the middle of the valley,
to be as far as possible from any ambitious Indians that might desire to practise archery at
night from the hills. There is not a rock nor a bush near us from which a sheltered and home
feeling can be derived. To add to the dreariness of the place, clouds seem to threaten rain.
The rich black loamy soil we have passed over is covered most luxuriantly with the excellent
grama-grass, so often referred to as being abundant throughout this region, called by Mex-
icans " de china," from which the valley derives its name. It is now grazed by numerous
herds of antelope and deer, and would furnish pasturage for thousands of cattle and sheep.
We have found no water in it above the streams that enter south of the Picacho; but the soil
seems so moist of itself, that probably, without irrigation, it might be cultivated to better
advantage even than the Zuili valley. If so, the amount of grain that it could produce would
be sufficient for a very large population.

January 14. — Moving onward, the valley soon opened into a sort of plain stretching towards
the north-northwest, bounded upon the east by high sandstone mesas, and upon the west by the
mountain chain we had seen from Picacho. On the way Savedra thought he recognised a point
on the route he pursued with the Moquis twelve years* since, and a few of us followed him to the
top of a high hill to reconnoitre. He was entirely lost. Westward, far as we could see, were
piles of mountains extending north and south, without any indications of a passage through
them. Eeturning to the plain, we followed Lerouxfor several miles northwardly, until, finding
a patch of snow upon the hill-side, we determined, as the mules were weary, to encamp. Mr.
Albert Campbell, Dr. Bigelow, Mr. White, and myself then climbed to the top of a hill, by
barometer measurement twelve hundred feet in height, which afforded an extensive view
towards the north. We could trace the rapidly-ascending plain, with red cliffs of mesas upon
the east, apparently at about the same height as ourselves ; and upon the west, the still more
elevated mountain range, but with sides less precipitous. There it is supposed the trail of
Captain Sitgreaves passed, and the country looks, as it has been described, exceedingly barren
and waterless. Neither Leroux nor Savedra can give us encouragement of finding water for
several days upon that route, even should we succeed in passing the mountain with the train.
Besides, there is already before the department a report of that country, and if we fail, it must
be in the effort for new discoveries. It has been, therefore, decided to return to Picacho, and
from thence explore towards the southwest.

By indication of the barometer, we are now four hundred feet above the bivouac at Picacho
spring.

January 15 — Camp 99. — Turning our faces towards the southeast, we descended the broad
sloping prairie to Picacho spring, where we found the main party with the train. They had
been here two days, and the mules were literally rolling with satiety in the luxuriant grass
of the valley. New species of pouched rats, an owl, and magnificent antlers of a mountain
sheep, had been secured, and many fossils, also a specimen of what appears to be silver ore,
collected.

January 16. — As camp near the pools was exposed to the full sweep of the wind, it was
moved about a mile to a more sheltered spot in Val de China. We then reformed the recon-
noitring party and travelled south 20° west, traversing the valley ten miles, to a dry arroyo
upon a slope of the hills, where we stopped for the night. During the march we were obliged to
face a bitter storm of sleet. Our bivouac is somewhat sheltered from it by a cluster of cedar

TURKEY CREEK. PUEBLO CREEK. AZTEC RANGE.

91

trees. The soil of the valley where crossed to-day proved no less fertile than it appeared from
Picacho. It may he denominated a rich meadow hottom, although the surface and several
water-worn channels were dry.

January 17. — Continuing our march, we passed a spur of granitic hills, and in two miles
southwest struck a clear and rapid stream flowing southeast. Its hanks were lined with rushes,
and a hasin-like valley was covered with a thick growth of timher — cotton-wood, walnut, and
ash. A large flock of turkeys was hunted in the grove, and one killed. This suggested
the name which was given to the stream, "Turkey creek." Here were huts and trails, and
stone ovens where mezcal had heen recently haked ; seeming to indicate a near approach to the
winter homes of Indians. As we proceeded, ahout three miles from south to southwest we
encountered another stream, somewhat larger than the last, also flowing through a fine valley
towards the southeast. We ascended its left hank two miles. Here two hranches formed a fork,
within which was a smooth grassy hill ahout fifty feet high. Upon the top were remains of an
ancient puehlo. It commanded a fine view. Ahove was a wide hottom-land, hearing faint
traces of former cultivation, although now partly covered with a heautiful grove of ash trees.
Below, timher of walnut and oak fringed the stream, rendering the spot a pleasant site for a
settlement. Upon each side flowed a clear sparkling rivulet, forming the delta of the valley.
One appeared to come from the southwest, taking its source in the region of Mount Hope. The
other proceeded from the west, and seemed to divide, hy a narrow gap, the range of stratified
mountains north, from the pile of volcanic-looking peaks that could he traced thence south-
westwardly to Mount Hope. Although other mountains overlapped, the quick eye of Mr.
Camphell at once marked those features as promising a passage through the range. We then
noted the course of the streams, and the spurs of hills that hounded the valley helow. We saw
where the ridge hecame less, prohahly forming an entrance for Turkey creek ; and where some
six miles distant it disappeared, allowing Puehlo creek to unite with Partridge creek, in Val de
China. There was a possihility that this valley, having collected its affluents, might yet hreak
through the Sierra near the Black mountain, some twenty miles south, and, forming the head-
waters of Bill Williams' fork, flow towards Bio Colorado. To decide that point, we determined
to continue the reconnaissance farther south. Proceeding to the hottom, with some difficulty
we made our way through rank grass and thick willows, ahout a quarter of a mile, to the right-
hand hranch. Having forded this, we ascended the hank to a high hill, which overlooked the
puehlo. Upon the summit we found a square redouht, five paces in the clear. The mass of
stones forming the walls was six feet thick, and still several feet in height, although in ruins.
Broken pottery and ohsidian were ahundant. Part of an arrow-head of amorphous quartz was
found. Before hroken it must have heen two inches and a half in length. Farther from the
river we passed a few deserted huts, constructed most rudely hy stretching hark over the hroken
limh of a tree. Crossing low spurs from the eastern hase of the mountains, we continued our
exploration south-southwest ahout six miles, and hivouaced near pools of water that oozed
from granite hills. Then, ascending to a high peak, we had a view of Val de China, extending
still far towards the southeast. Upon the left was the Black Forest ; and upon the right were
mountains, which, on account of the ruins found at their hase, were called the Aztec range.
The slopes all appeared to tend in the direction of that valley, destroying our hopes of reaching
the Colorado hy any stream that we had crossed. However, near the Black mountain, sonic
twenty miles distant, there seemed to he an overlapping of two ranges, denoting a break in the
Aztec chain, and the prohahility of a good passage through it. But the time which iis exami-
nation would cost us, we could not now afford to lose; and much as wo desired to make that
reconnaissance, it was deemed hetter to return to Puehlo creek, and first explore thai stream t<>
its source. It is evident that if we can find a passage to the western slope "I' this mountain
range, we must discover streams flowing into Bill Williams' fork.

January 18. — Turning hack, we reached the old puehlo. Ithcing a good plan' lor camping,
we sent hack to Picacho, with orders to Lieutenant Ives to hring the train to this place, deter-

92

AZTEC PASS. — ANCIENT RUINS.

mining meanwhile to explore for a pass westward through the Aztec range. Pursuing the main
fork, seven or eight miles, we encamped near the headwaters of the creek, where grass and
wood were abundant. Before us was a sharp ridge that seemed to close the passage. Mr.
Campbell and myself walked to the top, and found ourselves upon the summit dividing the
waters flowing west from those of Pueblo creek. The western slope was not steep, but wide and
smooth, descending to an open valley that appeared to extend far towards the west-northwest.
Upon the right was the abrupt southern termination of the lofty granitic range, from whence
came down the low spur, about a mile in length, upon which we were standing. The stream of
Pueblo creek passed down a rocky glen, some 500 feet in a third of a mile, to camp ; whence to
the old pueblo the slope was gradual, probably eighty feet to the mile. But the course was
nearly direct, due east ; and to the ravine in which it flowed, there was a gradual slope from
the foot of the northern mountains, which seemed to have been cut down by some convulsion of
nature, in the formation of this passage. Upon that slope, it would not be difficult to select
such a line for a railway as, proceeding from Val de China by a spur, could keep a favorable
grade at a height that would enable it to pass the summit without a tunnel. The granitic
mountain referred to was crowned by variegated red sandstone in horizontal layers ; and below
it, in the perpendicular cliffs, was seen an immense vein of gold-bearing quartz, fragments of
which were scattered through the valley. No gold has been discovered in any of these, but one
piece was found to contain a metal which resembled silver.

Turkeys and deer have been plenty since leaving Picacho. We have followed to-day a fresh
Indian trail. It passes over the summit westward.

January 19. — We found this morning that three inches of snow had fallen during the night.
Crossing the ridge described yesterday, we travelled about four miles down a valley of gentle
inclination, and stopped to graze the mules and look around us. The ravine which came from
the pass here contained pools of water. For some distance back, it had threaded a wooded
valley, with indications of fertility. Beyond, towards the west and northwest, it seemed to
pass into a wide prairie of considerable extent. Having now provisions but for one day, it was
necessary to retrace our steps towards the train, and returning to our bivouac of last night, we
again encamped. North of us comes down a narrow ravine from the mountain, separating the
dividing ridge we have passed from the long slope previously described as forming the northern
boundary of Pueblo creek.

January 20. — The morning was bright, but cold and windy. Continuing down the creek
for a mile and a half, we came to an affluent not before referred to. It was from the southwest,
and nearly the size of the main stream. Above, as well as below this junction, the valley we
traversed was rocky, and in one place too much so to admit of the passage of wagons without
ascending some distance upon the mountain slope. Having continued the descent to the pueblo,
we encamped to await the train. A person was sent to make signal-smokes from a high point
of the ridge, which here bounds the valley, and found upon the summit the dilapidated walls
of a tower. The ground-plan was an ellipse, with axes twenty-five and fifteen feet, partitions
dividing it into three apartments. The walls must have been large, as they yet remained five
feet in height, and six feet wide. The hill is two hundred and fifty feet above the river. This
has been the coldest day we have had, the thermometer at noon reading 21° Fahrenheit. The
barometer indicated a descent along the bed of tbe creek of about eighty feet to the mile.
These streams seem to be fed by many springs at a higher temperature than that of the atmo-
sphere, inasmuch as no ice has formed upon the surface, even as low down as the pueblo.

January 21. — The rear party not having yet arrived, two Mexicans were despatched on
foot to meet it, and conduct it to us. They were instructed to proceed east of the direct line,
where the sloping spurs from the mountains appeared to afford a more favorable passage. A
few hours after their departure, Lieutenant Ives, with the train, arrived. He had left Picacho
on Thursday, having seen our signal-smoke upon the evening previous. During the storm of
that day he crossed the great valley to the entrance among the cedars, where the men we had

FERTILE VALLEYS. — REMAINS OF FORTIFICATIONS.

93

first sent met him. The next day the survey was carried on as far as Turkey creek. On the
way the guide hecame bewildered, and led the train over rough and rocky ground up a wrong
arroyo. It was obliged to go back several miles. One wagon was broken and abandoned.
From Turkey creek to this place, four miles, it was necessary to cut away cedars and cross a
ridge of hills, but no further difficulty was experienced. The two Mexicans sent on foot this
morning for the train have to-night returned. They walked to the wagon-camp of night before
last, (No. 101,) upon the edge of the China valley, finding among the low hills an excellent
wagon route. Water was found in Partridge creek, several miles below Picacho spring.

We are in the pleasantest region we have seen since leaving Choctaw territory. Here are
clear rivulets, with fertile valleys and fine forest trees. The wide belt of country that borders
the Black Forest, and probably extends along Kio Verde to the Salinas and Bio Gila, bears
every indication of being able to support a large agricultural and pastoral population. The
valley of Bio Verde, which we saw from the source in San Francisco mountains, is magnifi-
cently wooded with firs and oaks, affording excellent timber. Ancient ruins are said by trap-
pers to be scattered over its whole length to the confluence with Bio Salinas. We therefore
seem to have skirted the northern boundary of a country once populous, and worthy of becom-
ing so again. Besides the advantages already enumerated, the mountains in this vicinity bear
indications of mineral wealth. A specimen, apparently silver, has been found upon the surface ;
and, according to my understanding of the account of Coronado's expedition in 1540, a gold
mine that was said to have been discovered west of Cibola is located near San Francisco
mountain. Among the Mexicans of the present day there is a tradition of its having been
found in later times; but the hostility of Indians, and the difficulty of obtaining supplies, have
prevented it from being worked to any extant. Some of the tributaries north of the Gila are
known to contain gold. As late as 1850 or 1851, a party of Americans was organized in New
Mexico for the purpose of working placers which were said to exist upon Bio San Francisco ;
but that name has been applied to so many tributaries of Bio Gila, that I am unable to
point out the locality of the one referred to. I think, however, it was that which rises
among the Pinal Leno mountains, east of the Salinas, and empties into Bio Gila about twenty
miles above the mouth of the San Pedro. One of that company was afterwards employed in
my party as a teamster upon the Mexican boundary. He stated that they really found a quan-
tity of gold; but, being surrounded by troublesome Indians jealous of the advance of Ameri-
cans into their country, and many of the adventurers desiring to proceed to California, the
party soon became disorganized, and abandoned their search.

Lieutenant Ives and Dr. Kennerly to-day ascended a peak three or four hundred feet high,
the last in the ridge that bounds and overlooks the valley of Pueblo creek, some three miles
below camp, and found upon the top an irregular fortification of stone, the broken walls of
which were eight or ten feet high. Several apartments could be distinctly traced, with crumb-
ling divisions about five feet thick. From thence to the pueblo, upon the gravelly slopes that
lie slightly elevated above the bottom lands of the creek, there are, as has before been noted,
vast quantities of pottery, and what appear to be dim traces of the foundations of adobe walls.
It would seem, therefore, that in ancient times there existed here a large settlement, and that
the inhabitants were obliged to defend themselves by strong works against attacks from a pow-
erful enemy. This agrees with the accounts, previously referred to, which the Indians gave
Marco de Nica of the people of Totonteac. But this race appears to have degenerated into wild
Tontos — a rude people living in huts, ignorant of labor, and subsisting only upon game, mezcal,
berries, and other supplies which nature affords unassisted.

It has been already remarked that, at the old pueblo, two branches unite to form the stream
that flows eastward to join Partridge creek. That which comes from the southwest lias been
explored to-day. It is but a small brook, which takes its rise among high hills at, the toot of
Mount Hope.

CHAPTER XII.

From Pueblo Creek to the mouth of Rio Santa Maria.

Bill Williams' fork. — Gemini mountain. — Reconnaissance westward. — Aquarius mountain. — White Cliff creek. — Indian break-
fast.— Yampais Indians. — Cactus Pass. — Arrival of the train.— Reconnaissance resumed. — Big Sandy. — Big Horn spring. —
Junction of Big Sandy with Bill Williams' fork. — Cactaceae. — Rio Santa Maria.

January 22 — Camp 104. — Striking tents, we followed the creek westward. For the first four
miles the road was good. Ahove, to avoid a rocky ravine, we were ohliged to ascend the slope
which came down from the foot of the mountain upon our right. That was not difficult; hut,
in crossing an arroyo, which was rough, two wagons upset, thus creating a long delay. Then,
having passed around the narrow gorge, we descended to the hanks of the stream, and en-
camped. The harometer indicates an ascent of 560 feet in seven miles.

January 23 — Camp 105. — Continuing our march something more than a mile, we arrived at
the foot of the summit ridge, where we had twice made our hivouac. To avoid the rocky ravine,
the train, with the survey following, wound around to the right, ascended towards the foot of
the mountain, and passed the dividing ridge ahout*250 feet ahove the point previously descrihed
as separating the waters which flow west from those of Puehlo creek. To obtain a still more
extensive view, Mr. Campbell climbed a steep hill, several hundred feet above the ridge of the
pass, formed by a short spur from the abrupt termination of the northern mountain chain, and
found upon the top ruins of another fortification. Its length was one hundred feet. It was
twenty-five feet wide at one end, and twenty at the other. The wall was well built, four feet
thick, and still remaining five feet high. It commanded a view of the pass, and, with proper
armament, was well situated to defend and keep possession of it from an enemy. The entrance,
six feet wide, was from the steepest side of the hill — almost inaccessible. From a fancy founded
on the evident antiquity of these ruins, we have given the name of Aztec Pass to this place.

Descending the smooth slope westward four to five miles, to a wooded valley, we found
water,* and encamped. Here, as upon the eastern side of the mountains, good grass is abundant
everywhere along the route. With an easterly breeze, the day has been warm, rendering our
second march through Aztec Pass less uncomfortable than the first. Clouds and mist partially
obscured the heavens; but Lieutenant Ives has succeeded in making observations for magnetic
inclination, declination, and intensity, as well as for latitude and longitude.

January 24 — Camp 106. — We moved onward, following the well-beaten Indian trail — mag-
netic west-northwest — over what appeared to be a plain, but was rendered undulating by spurs
from the hills. We thus cut off a bend of the creek; which, not far upon the left, pursued the
same general course as ourselves. South of the valley was a swelling ridge, and a remark-
able mountain rising 2,000 feet above its sides, clothed with dark cedars, and, in the centre,
cut as it were into two equal peaks; hence called the Gemini. A stream of lava could be
traced along the division far down into the valley. After travelling six miles, camp was
formed near the creek, in which sufficient water was found. From this point the course of the
valley is but a few degrees west of north, which would seem to be the direction towards Yam-
pais creek. We had hoped it would lead to Bill Williams' fork. To ascertain what is before
us, it will be necessary again to proceed with a small exploring party in advance of the wagons.

* This stream, which had its source at Aztec Pass, was afterwards called Bill Williams' fork.

CROSS MOUNTAIN. — AQUARIUS RANGE.

95

The day has been warm. Scarcely a patch of snow can now he found, except upon northern
slopes of hills. It has melted so rapidly as to cause the ground to he quite soft, and had for
the march of the train.

January 25. — Last night three stampedes of the mules took place, and this morning forty
were missing. They were at length found, and we prepared for our contemplated exploration.
With a small party we resumed a westward course. The creek we crossed where it contained
large pools of water separated hy a bed of worn pehhles. A few hundred yards helow were
green willows, denoting springs of water. Leaving to our right the pleasant valley of this
stream, we passed a low ridge, and in a general course north 45° west, approached a mesa,
which, from its form, was called Cross mountain. At its base we found the creek we had left,
bent from its previous course, and flowing in a canon nearly south. Having followed it two
miles, we encamped upon a sort of island in the bed of the stream, whose steep banks were
about seventy-five feet in height. Water occurs in large basins, and is not yet found flowing
above the surface. Cedar forests and excellent grama furnish, wherever we please, the elements
of a good camp ground.

We are now twenty miles from the summit at Aztec Pass, with an average descent of fifty or
sixty feet per mile. For the last fifteen miles the slope has been nearly uniform. Below Cross
mountain, a short distance from camp, is an arroyo, coming in from the northwest. Savedra
thinks that it is the same in which, twelve years ago, he saw a flowing stream farther north.
The weather is warm, and the grass begins to assume a brighter color. The botanist has found
some pretty umbelliferous flowers, called by Mexicans gamote. They have a fragrant odor, and
the root of the plant is much prized by Mexicans and Indians, as food. The formation traversed
to-day was frequently intersected by beds of lava or trap. About ten miles south of our route
is a range of mountains, with snow upon the summits, 2,000 feet above the valley, and about
twelve miles in length. This has been termed Cygnus mountain.

Signals were made this evening for the train to move on to the bend of the creek at Cross
mountain. There they can easily cross the canon, and await the result ot lurther explorations
south.

January 26. — A light fall of snow was produced last night by the wind shifting from south
to southwest. It seems that moisture brought from the GKilf of California is precipitated by
the mountain peaks in this vicinity, producing rain and snow, and creating springs in mode-
rate abundance. Farther north, upon the route traversed by Captain Sitgreaves, the country
becomes an elevated table-land, parched by winds ; which, in their passage over more pointed
summits towards the coast, are deprived of moisture. Hence the barrenness of that region.

At 10 a. m. we followed the direction of the canon nearly south ten miles, to the southeast
point of a small range of mountains, which, from the numerous streams flowing from it, was
called the Aquarius range, where again we spread our blankets under the cedars. From an
elevated point we had a view back to where we left the train. The general surface of the
country, which consists of great beds of lava and trap dikes, overlying or intersecting limestone
and granite, appeared like a plain. But in various directions it is cut into small canons,
through which flow rills of clear water. One branch, bearing a fine stream from the north-
west, joins the main creek near this point of Aquarius mountain, the bed being 280 feet below
the banks which bound it. The sides of these deep ravines are frequently perpendicular cliffs,
forming narrow chasms which might easily be bridged. Occasionally the banks recede, afford-
ing a declivity by which a train may effect a passage. Towards the southwest is a break or
gap through a low mountain chain, where it is evident that the creek leaves the canon and enters
an open valley. The general course of the stream is direct, and we desire to follow the canon
to its termination, but there is no hope of taking the wagons through. At the northwest point
of Aquarius mountain, beyond a wide stretch of apparent plain, has beeo seen a puerto thai
looked favorable for a passage, and it is decided to examine it first. Afterwards we propose to
return to the stream we have been following, now determined to be Bill Williams' fork.

96

WHITE CLTFF CREEK. — INDIAN BREAKFAST.

Our camp is upon one of the numerous rills with which this region ahounds. The vegeta-
tion continues to he grama-grass and cedar trees. Cactacea3 are becoming more abundant.
Three new species have been found at this place — a cereus, an opuntia, and a mammillaria.
Within the last two days we have seen but slight traces of Indians. Upon the banks of streams
we occasionally come across a metate. Some appear to have been recently used. A fresh arrow
was found lying near camp, where it had probably been lately shot at a black-tailed deer, or some
other game with which this creek abounds. The arrow is of reed^ pointed with a stem of hard
wood, and winged with four strips of feathers, between which it is painted green and yellow, and
carved, perhaps with the private mark of the original owner. The length is two feet eight
inches. It is bound with sinews and artistically made.

January 27. — Leaving the east end of Mount Aquarius we travelled eight miles northwest,
to the other extremity of the same range, crossing numerous spurs that formed rivulets tribu-
tary to Bill Williams' fork. Desiring to proceed as directly as possible we traversed a succes-
sion of hills and valleys, some so steep that we were obliged to allow our mules to pick their
own way, ourselves following on foot, making the march a weary one. We encamped upon the
stream we had expected to find ; which, rising at the north or northwest base of Aquarius
range, flowed nearly west through a pretty Aralley where were willows and fine alamos, the first
seen for many days. Fresh tracks of Indians and of horses were seen upon the borders of the
creek. The rock here changes from porphyritic trap to a coarse brec: i. cemented by lime. The
northern ridge which bounds the valley is broken into white cliixs of fantastic shapes; hence
the stream is called White Cliff creek. At camp were found rough pottery and a wide metate.
The weather continues clear and warm.

January 28. — We were favored with another charming morning, mild and without a breeze.
Following an Indian trail down White Cliff valley, we soon came to a projecting rock, beneath
which were walled partitions, with remnants of fires, showing signs of having been recently occu-
pied. Coarse pottery and white quartz, pure like semi-opal, were scattered around. A short
distance beyond, Indians were seen upon the hills. Five were counted. They would not come to
us, nor allow themselves to be approached. After half an hour spent in vain efforts to induce
them to hold friendly intercourse, we pursued our way down the creek. The valley was covered
with dense groves of cotton-wood, beneath which flowed the prettiest brook we have found since
leaving Pueblo creek. Its rapid waters were clear and sparkling; its course was direct ; and,
although we followed a trail over a spur to avoid dense thickets, the banks seemed favorable for
a road. Deserted Indian encampments were frequently seen. At one, from which a party of
perhaps twenty had evidently fled in haste upon our approach, was a fire and the remnants of
their breakfast. Their fare was somewhat novel, and had been dressed in novel style. A
large Echino cactus, a species which grows abundantly in this region, furnished not only a
portion of the food, but also the sole culinary apparatus. It was three feet long and two in
diameter, cut upon one side and hollowed so as to make a trough. Into this were thrown the
soft portions of the pulpy substance which surrounds the heart of the cactus ; and to them had
been added game, and plants gathered from the banks of the creek. Mingled with water, the
whole had been cooked by stirring it up with heated stones. They probably owed us no good
will for disturbing their meal, but nevertheless kept at a respectful distance. At 2 p. m. we
reached the point where White Cliff creek emerged from the hills, and found ourselves entering
a wide valley, bounded on the west by a range of mountains before seen from Aztec Pass, and
named Blue Ridge.

The stream, turning southerly, appeared a short distance below to join a wide arroyo from
the north, called Big Sandy. There the water sunk below the surface of loose gravel. The
trap dikes, calcareous cliffs, and masses of broken and worn sandstone, that we had successively
passed through since leaving Bill Williams' fork, gave place to granite, leading us to expect
few canons beyond. It therefore became desirable to bring the train to this point. In return-
ing, instead of ascending White Cliff creek to its source, we proposed to proceed farther north,

YAMPAIS INDIANS. — ROUTE TO THE COLORADO.

97

and explore among the sandstone and granitic mountains, which are smoother and less broken
into canons than the volcanic region we have traversed. We therefore grazed the mules, filled
our canteens, and then followed an Indian trail by a northerly course, up a dry ravine. After
winding among granitic hills about two miles, we entered a higher step of the valley, which
looked smooth and nearly level for an immense distance towards the north. But we turned to
the right around the base of the mountain, and two miles beyond took possession of a grassy
spot among the cedars for a night's rest. The Indians are still lurking about us. They have
been seen and tracked to the mountains, where was found a curious sandal, made of willow twigs
interlaced and bound with sinews. Leroux supposes these Indians to be Yampais, who range to
the junction of Bio Virgen with the Colorado. Towards the northeast are the Cosninos. South
of them, and to the Grila, the Tontos are supposed to roam. No one that I have seen appears to
have any very definite idea of these tribes. There is probably a close affinity between them.

The weather is spring-like. Vegetation begins to conform to that of Rio Grila. Canotias*
are mingled with cedars upon the dry arroyos, and mezquites with cotton-wood upon the
flowing streams. Numerous varieties of cacti also abound, from the huge Echino cactus of
Wislizenus, to humbler mammillaria.

January 29. — While at breakfast an Indian whoop was heard, and turning towards the
hills, we saw two tawny figures looking down upon us. A couple of Mexicans were sent out to
parley and bring them to camp. Our ambassadors bore a white towel pinned to a ramrod, as a
flag of truce, but evidently placed less faith in this token than in the pistols which they
endeavored to conceal beneath their coats. After a long series of gesticulations and signs, one
of the Indians took a firebrandf from behind a bush where it had been concealed, and produced
a little column of smoke as a signal of peace. Slowly and cautiously the Mexicans continued
to approach, and were at length received by one of the savages with great dignity. The other
seemed to be facetious. Without ceremony he converted the towel into a breech-cloth, and
transferred the ambassador's hat to his own head. We saw from their continued vehement
gestures that they were not likely to come to camp, so Leroux and myself went to them. The
Indians greeted us by placing their hands upon their breasts; and saying "Hanna," "Hanna,"
invited us to be seated by the fire which they had kindled. By signs they told how they had
watched and followed us, fearing to approach camp lest we should kill them. They examined
Leroux pretty closely, and then pointing towards the northwest, indicated that they had seen
him before in that direction. The accused blushed, but stoutly denied the fact ; at the same
time pulling his hat over one side of his head to conceal a wound they had given him there two
years ago. But the subject was quickly changed, and we inquired for the route to the Mojave
villages. They pointed nearly due west, across valleys and over low ridges, to a blue mountain
chain, at whose western base, they said, flowed the Colorado. The distance was from two to three
long days' journey for them on foot, reckoned seventy miles ; and there were three small springs
of water on the way. The return would be more difficult, and would require at least three or
four days of Indian travel. Although, to the base of the far mountain, the country looked mode-
rately level, smooth, and practicable for a road, for that very reason we feared this route the
more. It was on an elevated table-land, bounded by a mountain chain, which all agreed we
should be obliged to surmount, and thence necessarily have a difficult descent of several thou-
sand feet to the Colorado. Therefore, independent of the want of water for so large a train,
which the Indians' three small springs would seem to imply, it was deemed better to hold to
the valley and stream of Bill Williams' fork, and run the risk of increasing the distance.

Our new friends confirmed our ideas regarding the locality of some of the Indian tribes.
Cosninos, they said, roamed towards the northeast; Pai-Utes lived northwest, upon tlve farther
side of the Colorado. They professed to be Yampais ; or, as they pronounced it themselves, " Ya-

* This is the Mexican name of one species of the thorny " green-barked acacias."

f This circumstance reminds me of the custom which Alarchon found to prevail among the Indians on the Colorado — thai of
carrying a firebrand. Hence the name which that river at first received, viz : Rio del Tizon. See Indian Report

13 h

98

YAMPAIS. — CONTINUATION OP THE RECONNAISSANCE. — CACTUS PASS.

ba-pais." They were broad-faced fellows, with Koman noses and small eyes, somewhat in
appearance like the Dieginos of California. The language also seemed to resemble theirs. The
first word they uttered, "hanna," meaning good, was recognised by us as an old acquaintance,
learned several years ago from the mission Indians at San Diego. Two other words — "n'yatz,"
I; and "po'ok," beads — were also familiar as the language of the Cuchans, ("Yumas,") and of
the Coco Maricopae. Their hair was rudely clipped in front to hang over the forehead, in the
fashion of the Gila and Colorado Indians. Their back hair hung down nearly to the waist,
and was bound with variegated belts of Pima manufacture; a custom which prevails, but is not
universal, among all the tribes that trim in front. For costume, our friends were not remark-
ably distinguished. The breech-clout was, of course, the principal item. Besides, one had a
blue woollen shirt, and the oth er a Navajo blanket, which they said were obtained from the
Moquis. Their moccasins were of buckskin, of home manufacture, and one had leggins made
from the skin of a mountain sheep. He had, also, a skin quiver, upon which the soft hair of
that animal still remained. Upon his neck he wore strings of white and blue beads, which he
said were obtained from Mojaves. Both had their faces painted with red ochre, such as we saw
yesterday ground upon a metate. Although there seems to be considerable evidence that the
Yampais are allied to, and form a sort of connecting link between the Gila, Colorado, and
Pueblo Indians, they do not possess the fine muscular development and intelligence generally
exhibited among those nations, or else the specimens we have seen are not fair samples of their
tribe. As this question seemed an interesting one, we wished to obtain further data upon
which to decide it. But before attempting to puzzle them with signs, for a vocabulary of Yam-
pais literature, we endeavored to tame them somewhat by presents of trinkets and tobacco, and
an invitation to camp. We therefore laughed at their forcibly expressed fears lest we might
entice them into our power for the purpose of knocking them upon the head, and left them.
As we expected, when they saw themselves free to act their pleasure, they followed us.

Having eaten, and received a present of a blanket apiece, they were in excellent humor, and
allowed us to purchase their best bow and a quiver of beautiful arrows. The bow was of cedar,
strung with sinews. The arrows were made of reeds, fledged with feathers, tipped with a
wooden stem, and pointed with a head of stone. Some were of white quartz or agate, and
others of obsidian ; all exquisitely cut and well finished. As lapidarians, these Yampais would
seem to excel other tribes. Our mules being now saddled, the Indians offered to conduct us to
water, of which they thought we had need. They led very cheerfully to the side of the
mountain, where was a spring with a slightly sulphurous taste; and, near by, a stream trickling
through willows in a rocky ravine. A short distance below, it passed beneath the coarse
gravelly soil. This service done, our new friends took leave in great haste, promising to see
us again. Having watered our mulada, we travelled five miles east-northeast up a dry arroyo,
to its head; and thence climbed a steep ridge several hundred feet high, to the lowest summit
we could find, north of the pass which White Cliff creek makes through Aquarius mountains.
Thence we could look eastwardly over a great plain to Cross mountain, near which, upon Bill
Williams' fork, the main party was awaiting our signals. The gentle slope towards thv east
afforded a stream which turned southerly, forming one branch of White Cliff creek. The
descent by it appeared gradual and without a formidable canon. Hence, it may be inferred
that there is no obstacle to prevent the construction of a road, with a regular grade, to the point
where we left that stream yesterday. But, as we have seen, there are rough and rocky places
in the ravine which would make the passage difficult for wagons. Therefore, we will await the
train here, and take it over the higher ridge and down the steep descent, to pursue the route
by which we have returned. From the peculiar vegetation of this place, we piopose to give it
the characteristic name of Cactus Pass. Having found a bivouac among the cedars, we made
signal smokes, and then despatched a guide to meet the train. The weather continues warm
and pleasant.

January 30. — Indian signal-fires were seen this morning towards the west. The hill near

YAMPAIS PRISONERS. — DESCENT OP CACTUS PASS.

99

camp had evidently been used for the same purpose previous to our arrival. At the spring,
near by, are signs of a late encampment, with large quantities of corn-cobs. One of them
measured^ exclusive of stem, nine inches in length, and had ribs for twelve rows of grain. It
was an indication of fine crops somewhere in the Indian country.

As coyotes stole the remnant of our mutton last night from the camp-fires, we have lived
to-day on game — partridges, rabbits, and black-tailed deer. The hunters of minerals also have
been successful, having found magnetic iron ore and a vein of quartz containing metal which
resembles silver. Leroux has washed for gold — he thinks, successfully.

January 31 — Gamp 110. — While awaiting the wagons, we made use of certain fragments of
axes we had to cut trees and bushes, so as to form a road down Cactus Pass. The descent is
abrupt, like that in G-uadalupe Pass, on Cook's road, over which emigrants travel when taking
the G-ila route to California, for the first three miles averaging about 400 feet per mile. The
steepness of the declivity precludes the idea of adopting this pass for a railway route. For that
we d epend upon following the course either of White Cliff creek or of Bill Williams' fork.
"Bebce sunset the train arrived. The officers report the country from where we left them as
generally level, and favorable for a road. Melted snows, however, have now saturated the
gravelly soil so completely as to cause mules and wagons to sink to the depth of about a foot,
rendering their passage exceedingly difficult and greatly fatiguing to the animals. The first
day they travelled, from where we left them, twelve miles to the canon. Yesterday they made
eleven miles, and encamped upon a fine running stream, supposed to be one of the head branches
of White Cliff creek. Ten miles to-day brought them to this place.

Dr. Kennerly has been fortunate in collecting new specimens of birds, pouched rats, lizards,
&c. He has found, also, a skull, supposed to be that of a Yampais. Some of the party, it
appears, were not satisfied with a simple skull, but having seen two Indians lurking about
camp, captured them. The poor fellows were doubtless frightened, though one of them, to
conceal his emotion, pretended to be highly amused at the occurrence. Some of the party
endeavored to prevail on him to sing. It is the custom among these tribes to compel an enemy
to sing his death-song preparatory to being shot or burned. It was not surprising, therefore,
that he should attempt to regain his freedom. Though surrounded, he broke through the circle,
ran, and escaped. The other was caught and tied. He took it quite stoically ; and though
expecting, of course, to be killed at once, seemed perfectly indifferent. By signs he was desired
to tell the distance to Mojave village. With much ingenuity he explained — placing five stones
at certain distances apart, to denote that number of marches ; the last a long one. Four water-
holes were laid down ; and beyond, a long channel filled with water, to represent the course of
Bio Colorado. With sticks he indicated huts upon the river bank, to show the position of the
Mojaves. Such was a Yampais map ; and it was really an intelligible one. When they had
gained from the artist all the information they desired, the officers loaded him with presents —
a blanket, shirt, sheepskin, tobacco, and a leg of mutton — and allowed him to go. Through
the whole scene the captive illustrated the characteristic stoicism of his race. Not for a moment
did his countenance show a trace of emotion. Fear for his life, hope of escape, despair at being
caught again, gratitude for presents and for freedom, changed not a muscle of his features, nor
affected the quiet dignity of his deportment.

February 1 — Camp 111, — It was with much difficulty that the train made its way through
Cactus Pass, notwithstanding the wagon loads were lightened. But from the foot of the ridge
we travelled rapidly, passed the Yampais springs, and encamped on White Cliff creek where
we left it a few days since, eight miles from the pass. In arranging the loads this morning,
the Mexicans got into confusion, and left several packs containing our blankets and tents. A
party has been sent back for them. We have descended, to-day, sixteen hundred feet in eight
miles, some five or six hundred being almost precipitous. But if we look back to Camp L09,
we find that there we were upon the headwaters of White Cliff creek, 1,200 feet above this
point ; and though the travelled distance was eighteen miles by the stream, which is more

100

MOUNTAIN SHEEP. — BIG SANDY. — BILL WILLIAMS' FORK.

direct, it would have been reduced to fourteen miles, giving a grade of eighty-six feet per mile.
This, however, is only a rough approximation. Careful computation of the notes will probably
modify this estimate considerably.

As the water of White Cliff creek sinks a short distance from camp, it was thought best to
continue with a reconnoitring party in advance, Leroux still thinking that we ought to aban-
don the stream and proceed due west to Mojave. It would shorten the distance, without doubt,
but at a great sacrifice of grade. Therefore, our bedding and provisions having arrived from last
camp, at 2 p. m. the explorations were renewed. Moving southwest along the dry bed of the
creek to its junction with a large sandy arroyo, supposed to be what Walker named "Big
Sandy," we then travelled south, through the centre of a wide valley, and, after a march of six
miles, encamped without having found water. Notwithstanding the dry surface, the soil is not
deficient in vegetation, such as occurs in the vicinity of Rio Gila, viz: grama-grass, larrea Mex-
icana, cacti, and Spanish bayonets. Bordering the sandy bed of the creek there is a fringe of
dwarf oaks. The day has been pleasantly warm.

February 3. — Proceeding onward nearly south, we soon struck into an Indian trail which led
over a ridge into an arroyo from the mountains upon our left. There we found, at the foot of a
white feldspar cliff, a fine spring of flowing water, sheltered by alamos, willows, and an acacia
which bore a new variety of mistletoe. Some "bighorn" mountain sheep were frightened
away from it at our approach. They were magnificent animals, with skin of silky hair like an
antelope, and horns of remarkable size, curled like those of a ram. It is said that when pur-
sued by hunters they throw themselves from lofty precipices, and striking upon their horns,
escape uninjured by the fall. Those that we had started disappeared among the mountains ;*
and as a prize had been offered for a specimen, some of the men followed with perseverance,
which, however, was not rewarded. Having watered our mules, we turned down the steep and
rocky ravine to its junction with Big Sandy, and continued the march south in the dry bed of
that stream. The hills upon the right and left of our trail were of coarse granite, containing
much feldspar, and, like those passed yesterday, covered with spring vegetation. The valley
was about half a mile wide, and upon the surface of the washed arroyos were traces of recent
water. About twelve miles below Big Horn spring, and twenty from White Cliff creek, we
reached the junction of Big Sandy with Bill Williams' fork. The latter stream, which flows
from Aztec Pass, here escapes from a ridge of volcanic hills and trap dikes, to enter a wide and
fertile valley. It is now a clear rivulet fifty feet wide, and from a foot and a half to two feet
deep. It flows nearly direct, in a southwest course from Camp 108, where the wagon trail
crossed it, distant about thirty-four miles. Below this point Bill Williams' fork takes a south-
westwardly course, and bids fair to lead us, by the southern base of Blue Bidge, directly to
the Colorado. We have therefore concluded to adopt this route for the survey, and have sent
back a messenger to Lieut. Ives, desiring him to advance and follow us with the train.

Our camp is upon a gravel ridge near the mouth of Big Sandy, where grama is abundant.
In the valley below are groves of mezquite trees which shelter a luxuriant crop of young grass.
A fringe of the same borders the rivulet, quite in accordance with the delightful weather we
have experienced. The thermometer at noon stood at 80° Fahrenheit. Around our bivouac
are great quantities of " fouquiera." It is a singular shrub, with many thorny stalks shooting
from the same root, and growing without branches nearly straight from ten to fifteen feet in
height. When in blossom it is exceedingly beautiful. In winter, while the circulation of the
sap is suspended, it seems to be saturated with an unctuous substance that causes it to burn
with a brilliant light like fat pine ; at night, therefore, it serves as a torch.

To-day we have found a new species of cactodendron, called chug. It grows in extensive
patches to the height of eight to ten feet ; a confused mass of angular joints, whose sheathed

* These form part' of a chain which was afterwards called " Big Horn," or " Cer-bat " range. Cer-bat is the Coco Maricopa and
Mojave name for this animal, called Cimarron by the Mexicans. Their hair is supposed to be too coarse to be woven ; but, nev-
ertheless, I doubt not that these were the "wild beasts" referred to by the Gila Indians, in describing to Father Marco de Nica,
in 1539, the woollen cloth made by the Totonteacs. See Indian Report.

VALLEY OF BILL WILLIAMS' FORK. — CEREUS GIGANTEUS.

101

spines at a distance glisten beautifully in the sun ; bat a near approach requires caution. The
joints, about three inches in length, are so fragile that, ftft some distance around, the ground is
covered with them ; and the sharp barbed spines, now diffieuli-to avoid, wound severely the feet of
men and beasts. The joints thus broken from the parent stem do nqc decay, but, wherever chance
has thrown them, take root and propagate with a facility seldom fOui)d. among useful plants.

Big Sandy creek abounds in antelope, deer, rabbits., and partridges, feeding upon the rich
grama-grass, and the seed which it yields. Wolves (coyotes and lobos) are also numerous, ,and
live by preying upon their weaker neighbors.

February 4. — Pursuing the reconnaissance for about ten miles nearly south, the direction in
which the water flows, we passed along the valley of Bill "Williams' fork, which averages
probably two or three miles in width, while the sandy bed of the stream is frequently a quarter
of a mile wide. For some three miles below the mouth of Big Sandy creek there flowed a
clear rivulet, which then, to our surprise, disappeared beneath a sandy bed that seemed to have
been washed by arroyos from the hills. After traversing a mile or two of sand, it gushed out
from the channel like a magnificent spring ; flowing and fertilizing its banks for a considerable
distance, then sinking again to reappear below. Several kinds of beautiful fishes were found
in this rivulet, and one was caught. It was quite different from any before seen ; had a large
head, was apparently without scales, with black back, white belly, and a red stripe upon each
side extending from head to tail. An owl and a black-tailed deer were obtained to-day; the
latter a long wished for addition to the zoological collection. The botanist, too, has found new
forms of interest to him in the vegetable kingdom. Varieties of the cactus family have been
discovered, and the famed Cereus giganteus is scattered upon the hills which bound the valley.

Cereus Giganteus, on Bill Williams' Fork.

I think it has never before been seen except in the vicinity of Kio Gila. The singular appear-
ance of the tall columns, sometimes shooting out one or more branches, communn'utes ;i strango

102

VALLEY OF BILL WILLIAMS' FORK. — CACTACE^E.

effect to the landscape. An idea of barrenness is associated with the whole cactus tribe, de-
tracting from the delight with which we .witness the rare and beautiful forms here developed.
Yet the valley itself, except whe?e .sand has buried the stream, presents a refreshing prospect
of fertility. Willows, .alamo?, and large groves of mezquite, grow in such dense profusion ag
sometimes to render it difficult to find a passage through them. Beneath the trees, and bor-
dering the v;ater-.courses, there is a crop of fresh grass, and occasionally a few spring flowers.
Upon the hills, or among the ravines which pass through them, there are patches of grama for
the mules.

February 5. — After breakfast we mounted and rode onward. Our course was near the stream,
generally in the valley, but sometimes crossing spurs to avoid a thick undergrowth of trees.
We travelled nine miles, and encamped within a canon, which, broken through spurs from
Blue Ridge, formed a passage for the river. From point to point upon this march something
new was developed to awaken interest in the exploration. A few miles below our last camp
the stream changed its character, from alternate fertilizing rills and beds of sand, to a con-
tinuous rivulet, clear, rapid, and several feet in depth. Many fresh beaver dams existed upon
this portion of the river, enlarging it so as to make the crossing difficult. For a while we
threaded a well-trodden Indian trail, till at length it was lost amid the mazes of a thicket.
This, with the traces of a few diminutive camp fires, and a rough metate found upon the water's
edge, was the only visible sign of Indians.

Six miles from last night's camp the river turned a spur from the mountains, and, entering a
rocky ravine, pursued a westward course among hills of granite and trap, which were occasion-
ally broken into canons. The width of this pass varied from 300 yards to half a mile. A road
could be constructed through it to the spur upon which we have bivouaced, either by cutting
off a few sharp points of its sinuous course, or by tunnelling through them for a few hundred
yards to maintain the uniform grade of the valley. The wagons, if they follow our trail, will
be obliged to pass through thickets and over sand-beds and marshes. But pioneers can doubt-
less select a route where, by moderate labor, the way may be made good. Cactaceae become
still more abundant as we proceed. Our path to-day has truly been a thorny one. There are
mammillaria, with crimson fruit, just rising above the surface ot the ground ; opuntia, of many
varieties : some with wide leaf-like joints, others of shrubby form and woody fibre, which the
botanist proposes to name Cactodendron ; various kinds of Echino cactus, the most conspicuous
being that named Wislizenus, and sometimes called the "Turk's Head;" and Cerei, from the
little Cloranthus to the Giganteus, inclusive. The latter occur, as upon the Gila, in groups
upon the hill-sides ; sometimes without branches, and, when full grown, average about thirty-
five feet in height. Ducks, partridges, and deer are numerous upon the river. A badger was
seen, but, unfortunately, not killed. Near camp, upon the hills, the grass is good, and under
the spreading mezyuite is a green carpet such as has been previously described.

February 6. — Desc nding the river the pass soon grew wider, and the hills seemed to recede;
leaving a fertile valley, watered by a stream fifteen feet wide, and from a foot to two feet deep.
Our course varied from south 15° west to south 10° east. We travelled ten miles, and encamped
near the river, where it flows through a range of volcanic mountains. Grama is still found
upon the hills. Bushes are mingled with the green grass that borders the stream. Numerous
Pitahaya* add to the picturesque effect of rugged hills, sprinkled with shrubs and green-barked
acacias. Another beautiful addition to the scenery appeared to-day ; groves of tall and branch-
ing Yucca, with shining leaves, radiating like a wide-spread fan. They are twenty or thirty
feet high, with trunks from a foot and a half to two feet in diameter. The leaves grow upon
the extremities of the branches, and each year are folded back to give place to a new set. It is
in this way that the trunks attain their great size. A semi-compact substance is formed by
the interlacing of the leaves, which, whea dry, makes pretty good fuel for a camp fire. The

* Name by which the Cereus Giganteus is known among Mexicans and Indians on Rio Gila.

r1

p

tr1

CO

is

3)

3

RIO SANTA MARIA. — ROUTE FROM VAL DB CHINA.

103

descent to-day has averaged thirty-five feet per mile. The principal ohstacle encountered upon
the march was quicksand in crossing the stream.

February 7. — Passing onward we threaded the valley of the river nearly south eight miles,
to a point of a metamorphic range of mountains where the stream turned westward. Here
entered from the east a river, with a wide valley, in all respects equal to that we have followed
from the mouth of Big Sandy. Looking east, the stream appeared hordered with a long line
of cotton-wood trees, and large thickets of mezquite covered the bottom-lands. It flows, doubt-
less, from the western slope of the Black mountain, and may be the main stream of Bill Wil-
liams' fork. We call it Rio Santa Maria, a name which early Spanish map makers applied to
the whole river. Had we been able to extend our reconnaissance farther south in the great
grass valley which was called "Val de China," it now seems highly probable that we should
have discovered a passage through the Aztec range south of Mount Hope, to the head of this
stream ; and thence would have followed it by a direct course to this place. All the indications
we have seen appear to mark this route as highly favorable. The dividing ridge near Black
mountain appeared lower than Aztec Pass. It is probable, therefore, that the valley of Eio
Santa Maria is less obstructed by canoned banks than the branches we have followed. It is a
source of great regret that we were unable, from want of time, to make this examination. An
interesting region is therefore left for future explorers. The river, for the day's march, has
rolled upon a wide and sandy bed, occasionally with fertile soil upon its banks. Bocks, vol-
canic, metamorphic, and red sandstone, were piled upon each side of the valley in fantastic
shapes. Upon the right was a volcanic cone called " Artillery Peak." Vegetation has been

Artillery Punk.

as unique and beautiful as yesterday. Pitahaya, from tbirty to forty feet in height, with huge
branching arms; Echino cacti, with rose-tinted spines; tbc glittering chug cactodendron, and a
new fructescent variety, bave rendered the scenery picturesque. We bivouaced about two

104

VALLEY OF BILL WILLIAMS1 FORK.

miles below the confluence of Rio Santa Maria; where, upon the hills, is found green grass
which the Mexicans call "gallete." Much of the water of the river is lost in the sand, hut a
channel is still left, ten or twelve feet wide and a foot deep. It is a clear stream, flowing
rapidly. The day has been uncomfortably warm.

CHAPTER XIII.

From mouth of Rio Santa Maria to Qhemehuevis Valley, oji the Colorado.

Continuation of the reconnaissance down Bill Williams' fork. — Coming up of tbe train. — Cave in a canon. — Ancient drawings
<ind inscriptions. — Colorado river.^Country near mouth of Bill Williams' fork/ — -Difficulty of ascending the valley. — First
meeting with Colorado Indians.^-Abandonment of wagons. — Party of Chemehuevis.

February 8. — We continued the exploration down the river ten miles, and encamped without
a sight of the Colorado. Soon after starting, we entered a chasm cut through a dike of green-
stone, with horizontal veins of granite and white quartz. The vertical section was variegated
like jasper. The rock, though hard, was cracked ; and sometimes hroken into prismoidal blocks,
affording good materials for constructions. The general course of the canon, five miles in
length, was nearly west. There were a few sharp turns which would require excavation to
reduce the curvature to 1,000 or 2,000 feet radius. The rock in some places rose in vertical
planes to the height of 300 feet. Upon the top it was broken ; presenting, sometimes, a fancied
resemblance to gothic architecture. Iu each crevice where they could find foothold grew flower-
ing shrubs, the prim agave, or the pink-spined Echino cactus of Wislizenus. Partridges, ducks ?
and small birds abound in the valley among thickets of mezquite and willows. A recent Indian
trail led along the banks of the stream. Not far from last night's bivouac was a collection of
deserted huts, made of bent willow twigs, and crowned with leaves. Three small stones showed
where an earthen vessel had been placed upon a fire for cooking purposes, and near by was a
metate for pounding mezquites. We found also a fishing net, made of willow twigs bound
together with thongs, and a small ring of twine, such as is used in one of their athletic games.
The remnant of their fire consisted of the most minute pieces of charcoal. Even where wood is
plenty, as at this place, the Indians ever show the greatest parsimony in its use. Their favorite
fire is made of a few sticks the size of one's finger, around which they huddle in a circle to
warm themselves. For the want of clothing, they frequently make their beds in dry sand that
has been heated by the sun. Heavy rains and freshets occur but seldom in this climate ; but
when they do, all vestiges of these abodes are swept away. Below, we found other huts simi-
lar to those described, though less upon the Lilliputian order. A man could stand upright
within them. Upon our way we found occasionally mesa spurs projecting from the hills to the
river. The tops were level as a lake, and covered with shining pebbles of black lava. Upon
one, over which we passed by an Indian trail, appeared a circular trench three feet in diameter;
and within, a conical pile of small stones. Several objects of interest have been added to our
collections — among them a centipede, a lark, and an owl; also flowering shrubs of a new
species. Ducks upon the river are innumerable, and the hunters are able to add to our scanty
supply of rations.

February 9. — From the top of a high hill, a great valley filled with smoke, supposed to be
that of Rio Colorado, seemed to proceed from the northwest and unite with Bill Williams' fork,
about fifteen miles west from the point of observation. But our provisions being exhausted,
we were unable to proceed. To meet the train, we turned back ; and as a low pass was visible
among the hills north of the striped canon threaded yesterday, we proposed to examine it, and
thus attempt to cut off a bend of the river. We followed a well-trodden Indian trail that Led
up an arroyo. Upon the right and left were numerous Pitahayas, by the sides of which wore
frequently seen long poles, forked at the end, for the purpose of dislodging the fruit. Many
14/?

106

PROGRESS DOWN BILL WILLIAMS' FORK.

arrows were sticking in the top, showing that the Indians, while lahoring for food, had fre-
quently amused themselves at archery.

Having travelled four miles, we entered a narrow chasm, the precipitous walls of which grew
higher as we proceeded. We therefore despaired of heing able to make an exit from its head ;
and turning, ascended the mountain ridges. Crossing them with much difficulty, at sunset we
reached our bivouac of February 7th. Some of the party who explored the chasm to its head,
found there a spring of cold water ; and near by, a cave covered with Indian paintings. Mount-
ain sheep were enjoying this cold retreat; but, frightened at the approach of men, with the fleet-
ness of deer they fled to the mountains and escaped.

February 10. — We conclude to await here the arrival of Lieutenant Ives with the surveying
party. Leroux returns to conduct the train through portions of the valley where the reconnais-
sance shows fewer obstructions than by the trail we have followed. Towards evening a shower
came up, and, to protect ourselves, we built huts of chamisa boughs, after the fashion of an
Apache village; and . as our provisions were exhausted, we imitated the Indians in another
respect, and lived upon game — ducks, rabbits, and deer.

The canons upon this river remind one of the chasms through which the Gila flows among the
Pinal Lena mountains. That is longer, deeper, more rugged and angular, but the rock is of
similar metamorphic formation. The Salinas also, according to the accounts of Lieutenant
Beckwith and Dr. Eandall, who tried to follow its course, on their way to Zuni, to the Gila, in
1849, threads a chasm of the same nature, and is as impassable with pack -mules as that near
Mount Turnbull. They were obliged to leave the stream, and make their way over high and
rough mountains. It seems probable, therefore, that the spurs which are broken through by
Bill Williams' fork extend in a general east-southeast course, forming one great chain, inter-
sected also by the Bio Verde, Salinas, and Gila. Southeast from the junction of Bill Williams'
fork with Bio Santa Maria is a wide, arid-looking prairie, apparently cut into deep arroyos.
It may extend to the Pima village, cross the Gila, and thence form the Jornada to Tucson. If
this be not the great valley mentioned by Mr. Aubrey, in his report, none has yet been seen to
answer his description.

February 11. — Much rain fell during the day. Towards evening a messenger arrived from the
train, bringing jirovisions. The rear party will not reach us until to-morrow, as their mules are
quite weary from breaking a road through the alternate sand and marsh that cover the banks
of the river.

February 12. — Beceived another message from Lieutenant Ives, stating that, on account of
the thickets upon the banks, the train was obliged generally to follow the sandy bed of the
stream, rendering progress slow and fatiguing. He therefore proposed to abandon one or two
wagons, and thus increase the strength of the remaining teams. Lieutenant Jones and Mr.
White finding that the surveying party would not overtake us to-night, went back to meet it.

February 13 — Camp 121. — At 2 p. m. the train arrived, having met with no serious difficulty
during our absence. The mules, however, from ten days' successive travel with loaded wagons
through soft earth or sand, need rest.

The night is clear, affording an opportunity to observe moon culminations and an occultation
of Mars.

February 14 — Camp 121. — To facilitate our movements, as we are already reduced to half
rations of flour, we decided to leave three of the wagons, and lighten the rest, by abandoning
such things as could be most easily spared. The day has been occupied in making arrange-
ments for this purpose.

February 15 — Camp 122. — The train and survey followed the valley through the striped
canon, traversed and described a few days since, while Dr. Bigelow, Mr. Molhausen, and
myself took an Indian trail, which led through a pass among the hills. On the way the artist
sketched several singular trees and shrubs, which Dr. Bigelow supposes have never been de-
scribed. Ascending an arroyo, we passed a summit without difficulty, and entered a ravine

CAVE. — PICTOGRAPHS. — SCARCITY OF GRASS.

107

which led westward. As it descended rapidly into chasms, with precipices which the mules
could not easily pass, we found ourselves compelled to ascend the hill-sides to avoid them.
After several miles of rugged way, as the Indian trail had been lost, we again entered the
canon, below the spring of which we were in search. Now ascending a few hundred yards, we
found ourselves enclosed by high walls, nearly perpendicular, with the thorny vegetation of
this region growing in every crevice of the rocks. Springs of water were issuing from beneath
the ledges, flowing a few feet only, and then sinking into the sand. Here, leaving our mules,
we climbed a water-worn and polished rock, about thirty feet high, and entered a basin, walled
in by lofty precipices. At the upper end, a projecting cliff formed a cave. ' Beneath flowed a
little rill of water, which first filled a beautiful pool in the hollowed rock, and then trickling
down into the valley, ran to the cascade below. Above the fountain the cave was covered with
hieroglyphics, painted red, purple, and white. The figures were somewhat similar to those
found at Rocky Dell creek, near the Llano Estacado. A streak of red, bordered with white,
formed an irregular arch over the whole, and may have been intended to represent the patron
of the place, a serpent. Below were various figures, more or less regular in form. High upon
a cliff on the opposite side of the gorge, plainly seen but difficult of access, were a variety of
other inscriptions, apparently ancient. Some of the most interesting among them were
sketched by the artist. The question of their origin is sufficiently obscure. The secluded nook
and the fountain of water may have thrown a charm around the place, causing the Indian medi-
cine men or priests to select it for a retreat sacred to the ceremonies of their craft. Such are
said to be the habits of Indian soothsayers ; and there is a sombre aspect about this spot sug-
gestive of superstitious rites. Having satisfied our curiosity, we descended the cascade, mounted
our mules, and followed the arroyo four miles, to the river. Turning, we ascended the stream
two miles, and found the train encamped at the mouth of the canon, having advanced nine
miles during the day.

The grass, last night, was said to be plenty, but the mules this morning greedily devoured
dry sticks and leaves, thereby telling a different story. Hence it is not surprising that the
strength of several failed on the march, and that they had to be left by the wayside.

February 16 — Camp 123. — We marched several miles down the valley of the river, and
encamped near the last bivouac of the reconnaissance. The surface was somewhat sandy, but
made a tolerably good road. Ducks were very numerous. A single person killed a dozen, one
of them believed to be of a new variety. Smaller birds also are abundant.

February Vl — Camp 124. — We continued to travel. westward along the valley, having a fine
stream by our side for several miles. At length the water sank below a bed of sand, and did
not again make its appearance. Having surveyed seven miles, we found a large patch of coarse
grass, and were constrained to encamp by it ; for the rich grama heretofore so abundant has
disappeared froin the hills, obliging us to depend upon the herbage of the valley. This, unfor-
tunately, is frequently salt, and contains little nutriment. Hence, for the last few days, not-
withstanding the shortness of the marches, the mules have been failing in strength.

The rain, which has been falling since noon, still continues, making the ground muddy and
camp disagreeable. However, it has filled some hollows in the rocks, furnishing a moderate
supply of water for use. The air is chilly and raw. The moon, at rising, broke the clouds,
and seemed to make an effort to dispel the storm, but without success.

February 18 — Camp 125. — A mild spring-like morning. We made an early start, and at 10
a. m. had passed four miles along the dry bed of the valley. Here water again appeared, (low -
ing in a good-sized rivulet; and as grass was found upon the hill-sides, we stopped to refresh
the mules. The soil seemed fertile again, cotton-wood and willows filling the valley. While
resting, a party which had been sent ahead to explore returned, with the advice that we should
spend the night where we were, as little grass was found beyond within marching distant .'.
We 'have therefore encamped. The view westward is exceedingly picturesque. A volcanic
ridge, with sharply serrated profile, stands before us. Midway is a gorge, through which the

108

CANON OF BILL WILLIAMS' FORK.

river flows, its banks densely covered with shrubbery and trees. Through another gap towards
the nortbwest is seen the lofty Colorado range, with a few patches of snow upon the summits

Astronomical observations were made and roughly computed, showing us to be in latitude
34 14', south of the point where we expect to unite with the Colorado. But there seem to be
indications of a near approach to that stream. Ducks continue abundant, and white gulls ap-
pear diving for fishes in the rivulet below, having made a long journey from the Gulf. The
botanist has found a new species of wild squash or gourd, also singular flowers and plants.

February 19-Camp 126.-Having abandoned two more wagons, on account of the weary
condition of the mules, with the remainder we continued the journey. Two miles from camp
we were in the narrowest part of the canon, about four hundred yards wide. The stream
became deeper, and about twelve feet broad. The cliffs upon either side were"nearly perpen-
dicular, varying from two hundred to four hundred feet in height, being composed of conglome-
rate, capped by a huge mass of basaltic trap, assuming various fantastic shapes.

Cafioii of Dill William?' Fork.

Soon after entering the canon there was a break in the hills to the left, indicating the course of
a small affluent from the south. As we proceeded the stream increased in magnitude, and the
valley, varying from one fourth to half a mile in width, continued to be covered with a tangled
mass of alamos, willows, and vines, considerably impeding our progress. It was with much
difficulty that a way was cut for the survey. The general direction of the gorge was west,
without any sharp turns. Upon the cliffs, even where no soil was visible, Echino cactus
abounded. But seldom did a Cereus giganteus appear. Having travelled nine miles, we found
a large field of grass upon the high grounds, and an abundance of green herbage fringing the
stream, and therefore encamped. Near by is an enclosure of trees and brush, which seems to
have been thrown up within a few years, probably by trappers, as a breastwork for defence.
In the muddy soil are, fresh tracks of five Indians, who appear to have ascended the valley yes-

ARRIVAL AT THE COLORADO RIVER.

109

terday till they saw us, and then returned. The Mojaves may have heard of our approach
from Yampais, and sent this party to reconnoitre.

We have learned this evening the cause of the sudden failure of the mules. The Mexicans
say they are dying of hunger ; not because of absolute scarcity of grass, but on account of the
unwise manner of herding them. The sentinels, unaccustomed to the care of a large mulada,
have deemed it their sole duty to prevent them from straying, and have kept the whole in a
mass near the same spot all night. Consequently, when morning comes, and again they are
harnessed for the fatiguing service of the day, they are suffering for the want of food. Since
learning this fact Lieutenant Jones has given such orders to the soldiers as will probably rectify
the error.

February 20 — Camp 127. — Continuing the survey westward, we followed the now wide and
fertile valley of the river four miles, and found ourselves at its junction with the Colorado of the
west. Ascending the gravelly ridge which separated the valleys of the two rivers, a fine view
was obtained. The Colorado came from the northwest, meandering a magnificent valley, and
having received the waters of Bill Williams' fork, entered a chasm among a pile of black
mountains below. Upon both sides of it were chains of mountains. That upon the right bank
seemed to recede towards the west-northwest, leaving a wide opening, and an extensive view in
that direction.

Bill Williams' fork, at the junction, is twenty-five feet wide, and two feet deep. Its clear
and sparkling stream, deflected slightly from the general course of the valley above, unites
with the chocolate- colored waters of the great Colorado at nearly a right angle to its course.
The latter is here about two hundred and fifty yards wide, with a current of probably three and
a half miles per hour. Above it appeared, wider, deeper, and less rapid. On both banks are
strips of bottom lands, from half a mile to a mile wide. The soil is alluvial, and seems to
contain less sand and more loam than is found in the valley of Bio del Norte. But here,
as there, are occasionally spots white with efflorescent salts. A coarse grass grows luxuriantly
upon the bottoms. Bordering the river are cotton-woods, willows, and mezquites, or tornillas,*
but more sparsely scattered than in the watered part of the valley of Bill Williams' fork.
Larrea Mexicana and chamisa cover the gravelly ridges that bound the valley.

At the junction we halted for awhile to make examinations in the vicinity. Astronomical
and magnetic instruments were set up, and observations made to determine the latitude, longi-
tude, and magnetic elements at the place. Having completed these operations, we entered a
well-beaten trail, and by a northwest course ascended the Colorado valley four miles and
encamped in a mezquite grove near a late Indian lodge. There were around numerous fresh
tracks of bare feet, and the remains of frugal fires. The grass of the valley had been burned
at this place a few weeks since, and now shooting from the roots fresh and green, formed good
grazing. The day has been remarkably fine; the atmosphere warm and summer-like.

February 21 — Camp 128. — We proposed to make an early start; but, upon collecting the
mules, four were missing. They had taken advantage of the new system of herding, and wan-
dered among the hills, in search of better grass. Half the day was lost in hunting for them.
A mile and a half from camp the Indian trail, which we still followed, passed a ridge of granite
hills that came down to the bank of the river. With some labor we levelled a space wide
enough for the wagons, and turned around the point of it, making a pretty good road. Having
proceeded thus four miles, a black, metamorphic spur from the mountains, with a serrated pro-
file like a saw, crossed the valley to the very bank of the river. As the trail again ascended
the hills, we were convinced that there was no natural passage for the wagons upon side of
the valley. To cross the river would be difficult, and we had no time to devote to the const rnc-

* The tornilla is a mezquite, bearing fruit twisted like a screw, from the Spanish of which is acquired its name. The bean it
bears is highly saccharine, and, like the common long-pod mezquite, is ground by the Indians into flour, called pinole, from which
bread is made. The fruit is highly saccharine, and I have been told by emigrants that when boiled an excellent BJ nip and
may be obtained from it. The tree bears a gum, which is supposed by Dr. Shumard to be equally valuable with gum arubic.

110

FIRST MEETING WITH COLORADO INDIANS.

tion of a road. Stopping the train, Mr. Leroux, Mr. Stanley, and myself proceeded to recon-
noitre. We rode several miles over gravelly hills, so steep as to he nearly impassahle with
wagons, till we arrived at the foot of the hlack ridge. Between the bluff and the river was a
slight herme; where, with some labor, it appeared that a road might be constructed. The trail
followed a dark ravine, where were caves recently deserted by Indians. The path beyond led
to a cliff some twelve feet in height, by the side of which the ascent was made along a worn
crevice, which afforded uncertain foothold even for mules. We then entered an arroyo, where,
with little difficulty, wagons might proceed, if once they could pass the ledge; but not having
time nor means at hand to construct a road, we concluded to abandon all the wagons except the
light spring-carriage — almost indispensable for the conveyance of instruments — and proceed
with the survey through this narrow gorge. Upon turning back towards camp, we heard loud
whoops from the high precipices which almost enclosed us. Looking up, we saw, standing in
bold relief, several Indians, apparently much excited. They clapped their bands first upon their
naked thighs, and then upon their mouths, as they shouted, producing the wild and startling
sound known as the war-whoop. After much parlejang, and many signs, some came down from
the high rocks, and meeting two of us, received from our hands a present of tobacco; the rest
looking on from the summit. This friendly act produced kind feelings at once. They spoke no
Spanish; but Leroux's knowledge of signs, and our recollection of a few Yuma words, enabled
us partially to understand them. They professed to be Mojaves, but declined our invitation to
accompany us to camp, saying they must first go and tell their great chief, who would meet us
to-morrow. As we turned and left them unmolested, their confidence in our good intentions
was increased, and two of them volunteered to follow us. Professing themselves "ahot'-k a
hanac" — that is, very good — they marched along, chatting as complacently as if they supposed
we could understand them. We could only make out that war, or some other calamity, had
visited all the Indians of the Colorado from the Gulf upwards, viz : the Cocopas, Comoyeis,
Cuchans, Ya-va-pais, Chem-e-hue-vis, Mac-ha-vis, Ca-hual-chitz, Mat-hat-e-vatch, and Hual-
paich. They have suffered greatly from want of clothjng and food, which, during the troubles,
they had not been able to produce. The Americans themselves, they said, had been reduced to
mule-meat. They talked much about "the Major" — gone to California, they said; but whether
Major Heintzelman or Major Kendrick, we could not tell, although the reference to mule-meat
seemed to indicate the latter. As they walked along, their muscular and well-proportioned
limbs, without covering, showed to great advantage. They were tall and erect, with a step as
light as a deer's. Their faces were painted black, with a red streak along the nose, according to
the custom of the Yumas on going to battle. There was a resemblance to the latter in other
respects. Their black and glossy hair was similarly cropped in front, along the line of the
eyebrows, so as just to cover the forehead. Behind it fell in a superb mass over the shoulders,
and was trimmed so as to hang evenly at the girdle.

When Ave came in sight of the train and camp, which had been pitched during our absence,
our two new friends instantly sat down, and refused to proceed. With another small gift, tell-
ing them to meet us on the morrow, we passed on, and, as we expected, they followed us again.
One could now see, from the expression of the eye and lip, that they had made up their minds
to encounter the dangers and run the risks, whatever they might be. They stalked into camp
with the dignity of princes, but with somewhat of a "who's afraid" air, like a schoolboy with
his courage screwed up to the sticking-point. Everybody treated them with distinguished
consideration : one contributed a shirt, another a coat, a third furnished a hat; and the strangers
were soon rigged out in most fanciful style, evidently to their entire satisfaction. When told
to bring into camp whatever they might have to exchange for clothes, they started off, and, in
less than half an hour, returned with maize, beans, and squashes. We have not yet seen any
cultivated fields whence such a supply could be obtained. At sunset they left camp in great
haste. About 9 o'clock another Indian was found by the herders, and brought to the camp-
fire. He, too, was naked, except a ragged cloth about the loins. His face and body were

ABANDONMENT OF WAGONS. — CHEMEHUEVIS. Ill

painted less carefully than those we had hefore seen. He looked as if from a long journey, and
told us that he was a Cuchan, on his way from Fort Yuma. Instead of being taciturn, as were
his predecessors in camp, he was excessively talkative. With vehement and not ungraceful
gestures, he delivered an oration. But as he seemed to have forgotten his periods, we were
obliged to stop him ourselves. Whether his volubility was the result of fright or impudence,
was not apparent. Our orator was placed under the charge of Mexicans till morning. But at
midnight, probably frightened by the quarter-hourly call of the sentinels, he came to our tent,
and awoke us, saying, ' ' Atcoberquec n'ye-moom," which, interpreted, signified that he wanted
to go home. But being informed that the sentinels would shoot him if he went out, he again
laid himself down by the fire, and was quiet.

The weather is warm and pleasant. Flowers are quite numerous upon the hills. A new
cactodendron has been discovered. A trout, like those of the Rio Grila, has been caught in the
Colorado, and new and beautiful varieties of lizards and horned frogs added to the collections.

February 22 — Camp 129. — The wagons, as well as private baggage and a few articles that
will scarcely be needed upon the remainder of the journey, and cannot be packed, were aban-
doned this morning. The scientific collections and instruments necessary for service were care-
fully preserved. The spring-carriage, with odometer, barometers, &c, placed under the pilotage
of Lieutenant Stanley, the quartermaster, was again despatched upon the survey. We fol-
lowed the trail examined yesterday, ascended the cliff before mentioned, and threaded the
ravine, which seemed cleft through the ridge of eruptive rock. Beyond were gravel hills, and
a devious track eight miles to their termination, where, upon a field of good grass, we encamped.
The labor would not be grea.t to construct a wagon road near our trail. Upon the river, doubt-
less, the few points of hills that intersect the bank might be easily cut off, so as to afford space
both for a wagon road and railway.

Upon entering the ravine, Indians sprang up on all sides; some armed with bows and arrows,
others without weapons, and many carrying things that we had abandoned at the last camp.
We now felt the advantage of having established friendly relations with them, for in the diffi-
cult passes they could seriously have annoyed us by interrupting the survey, if not our progress.
They professed to be Chemehuevis, a band of the great Pai-Ute* nation, and spoke a language
bearing no resemblance to that of the Cuchans, or of the Mojaves, met yesterday. Near camp
we crossed a field of wheat, which the owner guarded with praiseworthy zeal. There was no
acequia, and irrigation did not appear to be resorted to. The village and principal fields of
these Indians are upon the opposite side of the river, too far off to allow us to distinguish the
style of building and mode of culture.

In camp were probably fifty Pai-Utes. The chief, preceded by Leroux, who understands the
language, and followed by a long train of his warriors, approached to pay his respects. His
portrait may be taken as characteristic of his tribe. He was short, muscular, and inclining to
corpulency, his face of an oval shape, and pleasing, though painted in black and red stripes.
His black hair was cropped in front and clubbed behind, although some of his people wore it
in plats matted with mud, and cut squarely to hang to the middle of the back. His nose
was wide and slightly aquiline ; his eyes small and oval, and surrounded with large blue
circles of paint. The dress in which we found him consisted of an old blue flannel shirt,
instead of the simple apron worn by his subjects ; but he was soon decked by us in gay costume.
This excited the desire of his people for similar clothing, and they brought in for trade consid-
erable quantities of maize, wheat, beans, and squashes, affording dainty fare for the whole
camp.

At night the chief furnished a vocabulary of his language. He also drew a sketch this
country, giving the Pai-Ute names of tribes, and the rivers where they dwell.

* In old Spanish manuscripts this name is spelled " Payuches," which also answers to the Indian pronunciation. Moderns
have corrupted it into ''Pali Utahs."

CHAPTER XIV.

From the Chemehuevis to the Mojave Valley, on the Colorado.

Progress up the river, — Mojave band and chief. — Trading for provisions. — An old acquaintance from the Gila. — Mojave country.—
Ceremonial visits from the Indians. — Their dress, ornaments, dwellings, &c. — Crossing the Colorado river. — Assistance of the
Indians. — Council of the Mojaves. — Offer of a guide.

February 23 — Camp 130. — The beautiful valley of the Chemehuevis Indians is about five miles
broad, and eight or ten miles in length. As we ascended the eastern edge, we saw numerous
villages and a belt of cultivated fields upon the opposite bank. Great numbers of the natives
swam the river, and brought loads of grain and vegetables. The chief begged us to encamp
again within the limits of his territory, to enable his people to trade ; but, as we could not, the
poor Indians were obliged to turn homewards with their heavy burdens. The chief alone
accompanied us; and, after travelling between eleven and twelve miles, we encamped upon the
coarse but abundant grass of the valley.

Waiting at this place was a Mojave chief, with his band of warriors, to welcome us to their
country. With eyes cast to the ground, and in silence, he submitted to the ceremony of an
introduction. With apparent indifference he received the few presents that were offered, and
then quietly watched the trading of his people. It was now evident why the Chemehuevis
would not follow us with their articles of traffic to camp. They feared to encroach upon the
privileges of the Mojaves. The trade commenced by the offer of a basket of maize for three
strings of white porcelain beads. No sooner was the bargain concluded, than the whole multi-
tude crowded in to dispose of their produce at the same price. Delighted at their bargains,
they were exceedingly merry. But the acting quartermaster, not wishing to dispose of all the
beads, hid a part, and tried to induce them to trade for other things. They understood the
operation, refused all offers, and were silent for half an hour. Then they rose en masse, took
up their grain, and were about to leave; when, after an explanation, the spirit of trade was
restored, and calico being established as currency, became as popular as beads had been. We
purchased in a short time about six bushels of maize, three bushels of beans, and considerable
wheat, besides squashes and peas. At sunset the Indians seemed happy as possible, and made
arrangements for passing the night with us. But their acquaintance was deemed of too short
duration to entitle them to such confidence, and all, except the chief and a fewkof his friends,
were driven reluctantly from camp. Some of them were considerably exasperated, but they
went quietly enough and built their fires just beyond the line of sentinels. Those remaining
did not once lie down during the whole night, but sat at the fire using wood at the cook's
expense. Indians always expect to be waited upon by the servants of white people.

During the evening there came into camp a young fellow, asking for the captain. At the
first glance he was recognised as an old acquaintance, from the Algodones below the mouth of
Rio Gila, where I had seen him a year since. He is a Cuchan ; and, at that time, his people
were at war with our troops, and kept aloof upon the opposite side of the river. But Jose,
(that is the name he assumed,) putting confidence in us, swam the river, and led our train to the
place where were boats for crossing the Colorado. We found him a shrewd lad, and he proved
of considerable service to the party.

The sky has been partially overcast, but the usual set of astronomical and magnetic obser-
vations were taken. Near the termination of the day's march, the trail passed among hills
where a little work would make a wagon road. A better route would doubtless follow the bank

MOJAVE VALLEY. — CHIEFS AND WARRIORS.

113

of the Colorado. These hills are scarcely worth mentioning in connection with^the prospects
for a railway, as it would he easy to pass along the hase of the hluffs that border the river.

February 24 — Camp 131. — The Indians seemed to have recovered from the annoyance of
being turned from camp last night, and again became lively and good-humored, cheerfully
answering our questions regarding the way before us. A short distance from camp was seen
a second mountain spur, intersecting the valley, similar to the one where we had deserted the
wagons. The chief told us that the trail traversing it was rough, and impassable for the spring-
carriage. After much consideration, the natives informed us that, by turning to the right, the
riclge could be entirely avoided; and two of them consented to act as guides, to conduct the
surveying party by that route. With the pack-mules we kept the old trail, that led through
ravines, and over hills, to avoid the bluffs upon the river-bank. The path in some places passed
through deep chasms, and over precipices of porphyritic rocks. The mules tumbled headlong,
became weary and dizzy, and four were left upon the roadside. Having travelled about ten miles,
we emerged from the hills, descended by an arroyo to the river, and were gladdened by a sight
of the great valley of the Mojaves. Ascending it a short distance, we joined the surveying
party, and encamped; Lieutenant Tidball, with a portion of the escort, being still in advance.
Again we have experienced the advantage of having cultivated a kindly feeling with the natives.
Our parties to-day have necessarily been scattered widely, and an attack by Indians would have
proved disastrous to the expedition. But instead of impeding our operations, they have ren-
dered good service, giving valuable information and faithful guidance. The trail of the sur-
veying party conformed strictly to the account given by the guides — passing over a smooth
prairie country, without encountering a hill. But to avoid the circuit which it made, a road
might be constructed along the bank, to a narrow gorge, where the spurs upon either side came
down to the water's edge. There the position is favorable for bridging the river, and from
thence the valley would be ascended upon the west side.

We have had, to-day, violent wind from the north. It filled our eyes with sand, and added
much to the labor of driving the mules, and replacing the oft-broken packs.

February 25 — Camp 132. — We continued the survey about a mile along the border of the
fine valley, to Lieutenant Tidball's camp. Here, finding a large field which had been burned,
and fresh grass springing from the roots, we turned our mules loose, to graze and rest from
the fatigue of yesterday's march. Indians collected, and we were informed that one of the
great captains was coming to visit us. A few hundred yards distant was seen an assemblage,
and soon a long procession of warriors approached, headed by the chief and his interpreter, our
Cuchan friend Jose. The latter with great formality introduced the distinguished dignitary of
the Mojave nation, who returned our salutations with gravity becoming his rank. He then
presented his credentials from Major Heintzelman ; who stated that the bearer, Captain Fran-
cisco, had visited Fort Yuma with a party of warriors, when upon an expedition against the
Cocopas, and professed friendship ; but he advised Americans not to trust him. The parade
and ceremony were not, upon this occasion, as vain and useless as might be supposed, for without,
them we should have taken this great chief for the veriest beggar of the tribe. He was old,
shrivelled, ugly, and naked, except a strip of dirty cloth suspended by a cord around his loins,
and an old black hat, bandless and torn, drawn down to his eyes. Judging from his half
stupid, half ferocious look, one might suspect that there had been foul play towards the former
owner of the hat. But his credentials being satisfactory, he was received, and seated on a
blanket at our right. The pipe was passed around; the object of our visit explained, ami a
guide asked, to conduct us to the intersection of the Mormon road with the Mojave river. Be
replied that it was all well; none of his people would commit depredations upon our properly,
but would afford all the aid in their power. A few trinkets, some tobacco, and red blankets
cut into narrow strips for head-dresses, were then presented for distribution among the warriors.
As the chief would accept nothing for himself, the council was dissolved. Then commeaoed
the trade for grain, and the scene suddenly changed from grave decorum to boisterous mei I i-
15 /*

114 TRADE WITH THE INDIANS. — THEIR APPEARANCE AND DRESS.

#

merit and confusion. Savedra counted six hundred Indians in camp, and probably half of them
had brought bags of corn or baskets of meal for sale. The market was established ; and all
were crowding, eager to be the first at the stand, amid shouts, laughter, and a confusion of
tongues — English, Spanish, and Indian. The result was, the acquisition by us of about six
bushels of corn and two hundred pounds of flour, and the supply was not exhausted. There
must have been at least ten bushels of beans for sale, and great numbers of pumpkins, some two
feet in diameter, and weighing perhaps twenty-five pounds. They receive, in exchange,
in order of preference, small white or large blue beads; red blankets cut into strips six
inches wide; white cotton cloth; and calico, in pieces three or four yards in length. Other
articles and trinkets they esteem of no value. When the trading was concluded, they ranged
about camp in picturesque and merry groups, making the air ring with peals of laughter.
Some of the young men selected a level spot, forty paces in length, for a play-ground, and
amused themselves in their favorite sport with hoop and poles. The hoop is six inches in
diameter, made of an elastic cord. The poles are straight, and about fifteen feet in length.
Kolling the hoop from one end of the course, two persons chase it half way, and at the same
instant throw their poles. He who succeeds in piercing the hoop wins the game.

Target firing and archery were then practised — our own people firing with rifles and Colt's
pistols, and the Indians shooting arrows. Fortunately, the fire-arms were triumphant ; and
finally an old Mojave, in despair at their want of success, ran in hot haste and tore down the
target. It is said that several sad-looking fellows in the crowd are slaves, prisoners taken in
the last expedition against the Cocopas. In the military code of this people, a captive is for-
ever disgraced. Should he return to his tribe, his own mother would discard him as unworthy
of notice. There are only two Cuchans here, Jose and his friend ; others are said to be on their
way hither. The chief, Manuel, informs us that the object of their visit is to obtain a fresh
supply of provisions, their own grain and vegetables having been exhausted in trade with the
troops at Fort Yuma.

Notwithstanding the unity of language, the family resemblance, and amity which exists
between Cuchans and Mojaves, there is exhibited on the part of the latter a jealousy similar to
that witnessed among Pimas and Maricopas towards each other. An instance of this feeling
occurred this evening. A woman caught her little son endeavoring to conceal some trinket that
he fancied. She snatched the article from him with a blow and a taunt, saying, "Oh, you Cu-
chan ! " Some one inquired if he belonged to that tribe. " Oh, no," she replied, "he is a
Mojave, but behaves like a Cuchan, whose trade is stealing."

These Indians are probably in as wild a state of nature as any tribe now within the limits of
our possessions. They have not had sufficient intercourse with any civilized people to acquire
a knowledge of their language or their vices. Leroux says that no white party has ever before
passed them without encountering hostility. Nevertheless, they appear to be intelligent, and
to have naturally pleasant dispositions. The men are tall, erect, and finely proportioned.
Their features are inclined to European regularity; their eyes large, shaded by long lashes,
and surrounded by circles of blue tint that add to their apparent size. The apron or breech-
cloth for men, and a short petticoat made of strips of the inner bark of the cotton- wood for
women, are the only articles of dress deemed indispensable. But many of the females have
long robes or cloaks of furs. The young girls wear beads. When married, their chins are
tattooed with vertical blue lines, and they wear a necklace with a single sea- shell in front,
curiously wrought. These shells are very ancient, and are esteemed of great value. A few
were in camp to-day, mounted on spirited horses. They scrupulously avoided all superfluous
clothing, but were neatly painted and decked in their most fashionable ornaments. Their
bodies and limbs were tinted and oiled so as to appear like well-polished mahogany. Dandies
paint their faces perfectly black. Warriors add a streak of red across the forehead, nose, and
chin. Their ornaments consist of leather bracelets, trimmed with bright buttons, and worn
upon the left arm ; a kind of tunic made of a buckskin fringe hanging over the shoulders ;

INDIAN ORNAMENTS. — WHEAT-FIELDS AND DWELLINGS.

115

"beautiful eagles' feathers, called " sormeh," sometimes white, sometimes of a crimson tint, tied
to a lock of hair, and floating from the top of the head ; and, finally, strings of wampum, made
of circular pieces of shell with holes in the centre, by which they are strung, often several
yards in length, and worn in coils about the neck. These shell heads, which they call "pook,"
are their substitute for money,, and the wealth of an individual is estimated by the amount he
possesses. Among the Cuchans, in 1852, a foot in length was worth the value of a horse.
Divisions to that amount are made by the insertion of blue stones, such as by Coronado and
Alarcon were called turkoises, and are now found among the ancient Indian ruins. Frequently
blue beads are substituted for the more valuable stones. Turkoises and bone ornaments are
also worn by chiefs, suspended from the nose. All the men of the Mojaves, Cuchans, and
Maricopas have the cartilage of the nose bored, hut none except men of note wear the pendant.
Tbey have also two holes bored in the rim of the ear, from which hang strings of small beads.
Infants especially are decorated in this last fashion, having absolutely nothing besides upon
their persons. Among the articles seen, which may be ranked as curiosities, were a bronzed
medal, a clay image, and a net for catching rabbits. The former being of Spanish origin, was
probably taken from the mission of San Pablo, which was founded by Father Pedro Fort at the
junction of Kio Grila with the Colorado in 1780, and destroyed by the Indians the same year.
It represents a cardinal, with an image of the sun and a motto. The clay image is about six
inches in length, and reminds one of South American idols, such as are represented by Prescott,
Ewbank, and others. The formation of the eyes, nose, and mouth indicates some imitative
skill. Its body terminates without legs or feet.

Notwithstanding the great numbers of Indians in camp, no village is seen near us. But we
are upon a lagoon some distance from the river, and the valley is so wide that huts upon either
bank would be invisible from our present position. Those who were in camp yesterday were of
Captain Manuel's band. The present party is that of the chief Francisco, and we are tolcL
that there are three other chiefs, of equal importance, that will meet us as we advance. Towards
evening the greater part of the Indians left for their homes. Francisco and a few of his friends
remained, and being hungry, asked for a sheep, which was given them.

February 26 — Camp 133. — With the chief Francisco for guide, and Jose" for interpreter,
preceded and followed by great crowds of Indians, we continued our survey up the magnificent
valley of the Mojaves. The soil, for miles from the river, seemed of exceeding fertility, and
was sprinkled with patches of young wheat and fields of corn stubble. There were no acequias
Irrigation had not been resorted to ; although, without doubt, tbe crops would have been bene-
fited thereby. We frequently passed rancherias surrounded by granaries filled with corn,
mezquite beans, and tornillas. The houses are constructed for durability and warmth. Tbey
are built upon sandy soil, thirty or forty feet square ; the sides, about two feet thick, of wicker-
work and straw; the roofs thatched, covered with earth, and supported by a dozen cotton-wood
posts. Along the interior walls are ranged large earthen pots filled with stores of corn, beans,
and flour for daily use. In front is a wide shed, a sort of piazza, nearly as large as the house
itself. Here they find shelter from rain and sun. Within, surrounding a small fire in the
centre, they sleep, protected from cold. But their favorite resort seems to be upon the top,
where we usually could count from twenty to thirty persons, all apparently at home. Near the
houses were a great number of cylindrical structures, with conical roofs, quite skilfully made
of osier twigs. They were the granaries referred to above, for their surplus stores of corn and
the mezquite fruit. The latter is highly saccharine, and, when ground to flour, is a favorite
article of food with the Indians of the Gila and Colorado rivers. Its flavor is similar to thai of
pinole,* and this name, taken from the Spanish, is sometimes applied to it. Among the mosl
curious articles of household furniture noticed were the pestle and mortar for grinding flour.

* Pinole is much used by the people of Mexico, especially by soldiers on a campaign. It is made by mixing sugar and spices
with the flour of parched corn. By the addition of water only, it is prepared to be eaten or drunk :is the indii idual maj pr» fcr,
and is exceedingly refreshing and nutritious. It would be a capital addition to our own army ration.

116

CROSSING THE COLORADO RIVER.

The latter was of granite, the cavity worn with "beautiful regularity into a conical form, six
inches wide at top, and from a foot to eighteen inches deep. The pestle of polished greenstone,
also, was perfectly symmetrical, being oval-shaped, a foot and a half long, and four inches in
central diameter. Judging from the slight difference in price hetween grain and flour, it
would seem that the labor of grinding 'is esteemed of little account.

As we passed these rancherias, the women and children usually watched us from the house-
tops, and the young men, for a moment, suspended their sport with hoop and poles. There
would then take place an animated discussion with our guide, as to whether we should follow
the trail to the right or left, so as to avoid trampliag upon the numerous wheat-fields. At first,
only a small portion of the villagers seemed inclined to join us ; but at length, rising an emi-
nence, we looked back, and our little train appeared swelled to a grand army a mile in extent.

Having travelled about ten miles in a generally northwest course, we descended from the
cultivated fields and cotton-wood groves to the sandy shore of the willow-hound river, where
we encamped. There was little grass in the vicinity, and the mules were sent to Drowse on
hushes. But soon the Indians brought bundles of green rushes, and large quantities of corn
and mezquite beans, to be exchanged for shirts, pieces of red flannel, &c, so that at night the
mules fared sumptuously.

The day has been warm and pleasant, and the evening clear. Astronomical observations
were made, to fix the position of camp. Under the directions of Lieutenant Ives, prepara-
tions were commenced for crossing the river. An old and much worn India rubber pontoon,
brought from New Mexico, was inflated, and the body of the spring-wagon fastened upon it.
The vessel was then launched, and sat upon the water like a swan. The Indians were greatly
disappointed, for they had hoped to ferry us across themselves, and be well paid for it. They
all left camp at dark. Some think this deviation from previous custom looks ominous. But
"being now near to their lodges, they are doubtless only seeking warmer shelter than our inhos-
pitable camp affords them.

February 27 — Camp 134. — We were favored with a clear and calm morning, and hastened to
take advantage of it for crossing the river. Upon examining the pontoon, two of the cylinders
were found collapsed, and the wagon-body filled with water. Lieutenant Ives, who had been
the master-builder, viewed its distressed condition with considerable anxiety, but the case was
not hopeless. Many of the holes in the canvass were mended, the air was replenished, and the
pontoon again danced lightly upon the water. Long ropes, brought for the purpose, were
attached to the two ends — one held upon the bank, the other taken by swimmers across to an
island about 150 yards wide, near the centre of the river. Upon either side was a channel from
six to twelve feet deep, and about 500 feet wide, making the whole distance from the left to the
right bank of the river nearly 500 yards. The current was at this place about three miles an
hour. By letting out the cord from the main land and drawing in the other extremity, the
first load passed safely across to the island. The second trial was less successful; the rapid
current, and the weight of the long ropes, destroyed the equilibrium of the gondola, and upset
it in the middle of the stream. During the excitement attending this misfortune, we were
advised by an Indian messenger that another great chief was about to pay us a visit. Turning
around, we beheld quite an interesting spectacle. Approaching was the dignitary referred to,
lance in hand, and apparelled in official robes. The latter consisted of a blanket thrown grace-
fully around him, and a magnificent head-dress of black plumage covering his head and
shoulders, and hanging down his back in a streamer, nearly to the ground. His pace was
slow, his eyes cast downward, and his whole demeanor expressive of a formal solemnity. Upon
his right hand was the interpreter, upon his left a boy acting as page, and following was a long
procession of his warriors, attended by a crowd of men, women, and children. Having arrived
within fifty yards, he beckoned his people to sit down upon the ground ; while, with interpreter
and page, he presented himself before us. Taking from the boy a paper, he offered one of the
stereotyped credentials given by Major Heintzelman at Fort Yuma. That having been pro-

CROSSING THE COLORADO RIVER.

117

nounced " a-hot'-ka " (good), he took a seat upon the blanket spread for him, and smoked with
us the pipe of peace. This done, we made the usual explanations of the ohject of the expedi-
tion ; the wishes of our great Captain, the President of the United States ; and the henefits that
would result to them from opening a highway for emigrants, or a railroad, and thus creating a
market for the produce of their fertile valley. The chief replied hy a long and vehement
speech, in which he expressed his satisfaction at the prospect of establishing a system of trade
with the whites, wherehy their nakedness would he clothed and their comforts increased ; and
promised that, not only should our mules and other property he sacred in their sight, hut that
they would afford us every assistance in their power to accomplish the ohjects of our mission.
Then, after gifts of tohacco, hlankets, and trinkets, had heen presented, and hy the chief dis-
tributed to his people, the council of state was turned into a general trading community. The
Indians were decked in their most valued ornaments, and a furor possessed all of our party to
obtain some trophy. Therefore trinkets and garments were bought and sold upon both sides ;
although civilization seemed at a discount, and the relics of barbarism vastly above par. Shell
beads and necklaces would be sold, perhaps, for a blanket and shirt; while a fine bow and
quiver of arrows would command several of them. The Indians were shrewd, and would part
with no article without a really valuable compensation. Tobacco they would accept as a gift
only, and then sell it to the soldiers. There is a species of wild tobacco which grows here, and
is used by the natives. I presume they prefer it to the best Havana. Vermilion, oil-paints,
glass and coral beads, we could scarcely give away. White cotton cloth, calico, blankets, and
white porcelain beads, would have purchased probably a thousand pounds of flour, and hun-
dreds of bushels of grain.

Fortunately, this sudden accession of visitors did not impede the busy and difficult operation
of crossing the river. We left the gondola, as it was called, bottom upwards; men beneath it,
entangled among boxes, and struggling for life. The revolution of the boat had been so rapid,
that most of the baggage was caught by the top of the wagon body, and there suspended. The
men also were supported by the same. After a desperate struggle they disentangled them-
selves. The boat was pulled ashore, unloaded, righted, and once more set to work. By using
increased caution, we succeeded in passing to the island without further accident. To reach the
western bank we had a channel to cross still more rapid and deep, and were more unfortunate even
than before — our loaded barge three times casting its contents into the river. Mr. White and
a little Mexican boy were nearly drowned, before the exertions of Mr. Mollhausen succeeded in
extricating them from beneath the boat. The Indians, who are capital swimmers, plunged in,
and aided us in saving much of the property. Many of them had brought rafts to the spot, in

JVlujave Raft.

the hope that they might be required. These were of simple construction, being merely bun-
dles of rushes placed side by side, and securely bound together with willow twigs. Bui tin s
were light and manageable, and their owners paddled them about with considerable dexterity.
It was night when finally the great work was accomplished; the crossing of tin- ( '..lorado

118

LOSS OF PROPERTY. — RENEWAL OP THE MARCH.

completed, and camp formed upon the right bank. But our joy in the event was considerably
tempered by the accidents tbat bad befallen us. Some things were lost; others wet and ruined.
Our mules swam across and landed safely, a piece of good fortune that all appreciated. The
sheep were brought over by our rather officious, but exceedingly useful Mojave allies. By no
fault of theirs, but from bad management of tbe boat-rope, several sheep became entangled in
the cord and were drowned. These were given to Indians, who swam out for them. Two more
sheep and two blankets were awarded to the pilots of the flock. We landed upon a field of
young wheat, for which the owner claimed damages ; but his charge was moderate, and through
the chief the matter was satisfactorily arranged.

Jose Maria, the fifth and last great chief of the Mojaves, here appeared with his warriors for
the customary parade, and smoke, and speeches, and gifts. The whole five, Manuel, Francisco,
Joachin, Ore, and Jose Maria, at length came in a body, desiring papers to inform succeeding
parties of their civility to us. They were given, all containing warnings to afford no good
cause of offence, and to be watchful.

Our gifts had now exhausted the stock for trade ; large quantities of grain were in camp for
sale, but when told we were too poor to buy, the Indians expressed no disappointment, but
wandered from fire to fire, laughing, joking, curious but not meddlesome; trying with capital
imitative tongue to learn our language, and to teach their own. Few remained in camp after
sunset.

The day has been very fine ; a better for our operations could not have been desired. The
evening is clear, calm, and mild.

February 28 — Camp 134. — The mules and sheep were grazed last night in charge of a few
herders several miles from camp. Our Indian neighbors did not disturb them.

To-day we have remained in camp, endeavoring to remedy yesterday's misfortunes, by drying
the books and papers, and cleaning and readjusting the instruments. Some of the less valua-
ble of the latter, found ruined, were condemned and abandoned. To a great portion of the sta-
tionery and books of reference was awarded the same fate. All of the straps belonging to the
pack-saddles were missing, and search for them, by diving in the river, was in vain. Fortu-
nately, the spring-wagon, with odometers, and sufficient instruments for surveying and astro-
nomical purposes, reached the shore in safety, and none of the field-notes nor scientific collec-
tions were injured or lost.

Indians all day have been numerous in camp. They have not the habit of begging; but
each one comes supplied with a bag of meal, or a basket of corn, which he desires to trade for
cast-off clothing.

March 1 — Camp 135. — The saved portion of our property having been packed, we moved on,
slightly west of north, three miles, and encamped upon a long lagoon or bayou of the river, the
low banks of which were covered with tall rushes. We were attended, as usual, by a train of
Mojaves, and the camp became to them a scene of festivity. The chief Francisco came in
without parade, and condescended to take a smoke, and look pleased without presents. It is
but just to remark, that no one of the chiefs reserved for himself any of the ceremonial gifts.
They were looked upon in a national light, to be received only to distribute among the people.

There was no trading to-day, except now and then by individuals, to obtain corn for a favor-
ite riding-mule, or some curiosity of Indian dress and manufacture. Our stock of blankets and
shirts was so far reduced as to compel us to endeavor to drive hard bargains ; but the Mojaves
were more than a match for us. They were cool and determined, and had a fixed value for our
things as well as for their own. We were obliged to pay their prices, or lose the trade. A
bivalve shell, curiously carved, and suspended from the neck as a sort of charm, cost a fine
blanket. So great was the regret, even then, for having parted with it, that the friends of the
woman who sold it would have given seven-fold to have had it restored. Other women, pos-
sessing the same ancient relics, clung fondly to them ; and as the men were particularly resolute
that they should do so, it seems probable that they may have been wedding presents. Strings

MOJAVB COUNCIL. — OFFER OF A GUIDE.

119

of small sea-shells, much prettier than the last, were easily obtained for a dollar. They have
suddenly learned the value of money. In order to facilitate this knowledge, we have made a
point of taking the few shillings they have offered in trade ; giving shirts, and such articles as
they desired, in exchange.

Generosity is not a distinguishing trait in Indian character. Instances of hospitality, how-
ever, have sometimes been noticed. The Cuchans are evidently welcomed by Mojaves wherever
they go. The Pinal Lenas, when we were with them two years since, seeing us without an
escort, nearly defenceless, and with a scanty allowance of provisions, generously gave us, from
their winter's store of food, pine nuts and mezcal. Similar examples could be cited from most
of the tribes we have met.

Every day these Indians have passed with us has been like a holiday fair, and never did
people seem to enjoy such occasions more than the Mojaves have done. They have been gay
and joyous, singing, laughing, talking, and learning English words, which they readily and
perfectly pronounce. Everything that seems new or curious they examine with undisguised
delight. This evening a greater number than usual remained in camp. Placing confidence in
our good intentions and kindness,, all reserve was laid aside. Tawny forms could be seen flitting
from one camp-fire to another, or seated around a blaze of light, their bright eyes and pearly
teeth glistening with emotions of pleasure. They exhibited Indian character in a new phase,
giving an insight into the domestic amusements which are probably practised around their
firesides at home. Mingling among the soldiers and Mexicans, they were interested in games
and puzzles with strings, and some of their own suggestions were quite curious.

The chiefs came to-day with the interpreter to say that a national council had been held, at
which they approved of the plan for opening a road to travellers through the Mojave country.
They knew that upon the trail usually travelled by the Pai-Utes towards California the springs
of water were small, and insufficient for our train; that on the journey our mules therefore
would perish from thirst, and the expedition fail. Hence they had selected a good man, who
knew the country well, and determined to send him to guide us by another route, where suffi-
cient water and grass could be found. They wished us to report favorably to our great chief,
in order that he might send many more of his people to pass this way, and bring clothing and
utensils to trade for the produce of their fields.

The guide presented was our old friend, a sub-chief called " Cai-rook," who had so success-
fully conducted the instrument wagon and the surveyors around the mountain spur which
intersected the Colorado valley between the country of the Chemehuevis and that of the Mojave
Indians. He professed his willingness to accompany us to the junction of the Mormon road
#wfth the Mojave river. Pointing to the position which the sun would have in the sky at the
commencement and end of each march, and closing a finger to mark each day, he clearly de-
scribed the route, and the time it would require to perform the journey. He also made a trace
of it upon the ground, laying down the position of each stream and spring, and stating whether
much or little water would be found at the several points. To different persons his explanation
was the same, and would never admit the possibility of encountering more or less obstacles than
he had at first denoted. The price of his services was to consist of a blue blanket, a Mexican
serape, a shirt, and a few strings of white beads. At his request a dragoon overcoat was added.
The serape was presented at once. The remaining articles were to be given at the conclusion of
his services. Cai-rook then left camp, promising to be with us early on the morrow.

CHAPTER XY.

From the Colorado river to the Mormon road.

Leaving the Colorado river. — View from the bounding ridge. — Springs. — Pai-Ute creek. — Rock spring. — Division of the party.

Marl springs. — Desert. — Soda lake. — Arrival at Lieutenant Ives' camp. — Mojave river. — Remarks on the Mojave Indians and the
Colorado valley. — Mexican herder missing. — Statement of the guide in regaid to the continuance of the Mojave river to the
Colorado. — Search for the lost herder. — Pursuit after the Pai-Utes. — Return of the Mojave guides. — Mormon road.

March 2 — Camp 136. — Our guide presented himself, according to promise, and we commenced
the march. No sooner had we left the great valley of the Colorado, and ascended the gravelly
ridge which hounds it, than, looking hack, we saw a huge column of smoke rising from our late
camp ; while from point to point, down the river, in rapid succession, the signal was repeated.
It was probably a telegraphic notice of our departure, extending to the Chemehuevis, and per-
haps to the more distant Yampais. The scene presented from this point was one of the most
beautiful witnessed upon the route. The river is a noble stream. The valley is wider, more
fertile, and better wooded than that of the del Norte. Beyond, in a direction south 75° east,
could plainly be seen the wide opening represented by Captain Sitgreaves, towards the junction of
Santa Maria with Bill Williams' fork. If allowed to judge from so distant a view, one would
suppose that, with reference to grade, no difficulty would be found in constructing a railroad by
that course to the point mentioned. If this be so, the intermediate route would be considerably
less than by our trail.

Following an old foot-path nearly west, we crossed a gravelly plain, and entered the dry
sandy bed of a stream, supposed to be the Mojave, four or five miles above its mouth. This
we ascended, and finally left to our right, where it turned around the western base of a mount-
ain which formed the southern termination of a chain extending north, probably to the celebrated
canon of the Colorado. Gradually rising a long slope, at the end of nine and a half miles from
camp we reached the first springs of water. There were several oozing from beds of marl at
the base of small hills, with patches of young grass surrounding them. Our mules were not
thirsty, and we moved onward. With a new course north 35° west, we travelled twelve miles
farther, and encamped at dark ; finding in an arroyo a little grass, but no water. Wood also
is very scarce, and for camp-fires we used the dry stalks of yuccas. We are still upon the*
slope of the great valley upon our right, which looks green and inviting in the distance, but is
probably waterless and barren, as where it was crossed this morning.

The day had been very cold, with flying clouds and wind from northwest. Cai-rook, the guide,
shivered under the piercing blasts until the promised dragoon overcoat was furnished to cover
his naked body ; after which he walked very proudly ahead of the train. Many of his companions
followed us the whole day. They knew that we had nothing more to give, and yet they seemed
to regret our departure. Our policy has been to treat them as reasonable beings ; asking only
what was right, and submitting to no wrong. We cheerfully paid what they considered fair
damages for wheat-fields accidentally destroyed, but gave no presents that could be construed
into a tribute for passing through their country. A trade was established, which taught them
the value of their own agricultural labors, and the advantage to be derived from future parties
of emigrants which might follow us. The effect was to make them pleased with themselves
and with us. Therefore, instead of annoying the party, as they frequently might have done,
and especially during the crossing of the river, for trifling rewards they rendered great assist-
ance. Although the vigilance of guards and sentinels was not relaxed, still we slept as free
from care in the midst of six hundred Indian warriors as we would have done in any city of the

PAI-UTE CREEK YUJCA GROVE.

121

Union. In the accomplishment of this result, great praise was due to the officers of the escort,
and to the good conduct of the soldiers under their command.

March 3 — Camp 137. — Continuing the survey northwest ahout nine miles, over the smooth
gravelly slope, we reached^ at the point of a mountain, Pai-Ute creek, a finely flowing stream
of water. Finding good grass also, we encamped. A little hasin of rich soil still contains
stuhhle of wheat and corn, raised hy the Pai-Utes of the mountains. Eude huts, with rinds of
melons and squashes scattered around, show the place to have heen hut recently deserted. Upon
the rocks, blackened by volcanic heat, there are many Indian hieroglyphics. Some of the
more simple have heen copied. Others are too complicated or too much defaced hy time to be
deciphered. They are somewhat similar to those upon Inscription Kock on Kio Grila, below the
Maricopa villages.

Full sets of magnetic and astronomical observations have been taken at this place.

March 4 — Camp 138. — At 8 a. m. we filled our canteens and started. For the sake of the
instrument wagon, the guide led up the creek to a deep ravine, from which he ascended and
passed over the crest of a sharp dividing ridge to a plain of great extent. He afterwards told
us that the pack-train should have kept the ravine, and saved the hill. The reconnaissance
showed a favorable route for the survey through a valley upon the north of the hills leading
from the great basin before mentioned, which sweeps around towards the northwest. Upon the
left also, west from the little springs encountered on our first day's march from the Colorado,
there is a wide prairie with an ascending slope, unobstructed by mountains beyond. This is
supposed to be the direct and ordinary route of the Indians to the vicinity of Los Angeles, with-
out other disadvantage than the want of water.

The great plain which our route traversed was found to be covered with good grass, thus
confirming the statement of the guide. Moving onward by an ascent so gradual as scarcely to
be appreciated by the eye, we proceeded nearly thirteen miles to the dry bed of an arroyo, where
grass and wood were abundant, and encamped without water. The sand is moist, and the grass
fresh and green ; but our spades being lost, we have no means of ascertaining whether water
can be obtained by digging.

March 5 — Camp 139. — The mules were driven up for an early start, but upon examination
about forty proved to be missing. It was difficult to say whether they had strayed or been
■ stolen ; either being probable enough, for the vast plain surrounding us was sprinkled with
yuccas and clumps of larrea, which, by moonlight, could not well be distinguished from the

Yucca.

herd. It was easy, therefore, to lose the animals, and difficult to find them. Parties sent in
search were a long time absent, but at length returned successful.
16 h

122

DIVISION OF PARTY — MARL SPRINGS.

Passing over the prairie, nearly seven miles west, we arrived at a spring of water oozing from
a rocky ravine. A few pools were formed among the rocks, and helow, the water sank into the
sand. During freshets a small stream had been formed, turning the hase of an isolated hill,
and flowing east-southeast towards the Colorado. Having hollowed a hasin, water flowed in
rapidly, affording sufficient for the animals and the uses of camp.

Our Mojave companions are now reduced to the guide and his friend Irreteha, who propose to
accompany him to the Salt Lake road. The rest have returned to their homes.

March 6 — Camp 140. — Having heen told hy the Indian guides that at the next pools we will
not find a supply of water sufficient for the whole of our large train at once, it was proposed
to divide the party into three divisions, to follow each other successively, in order to give time
for the springs to he replenished during the intervals. The surveying party, under charge of
Lieut. Ives, and escorted hy Lieut. Tidhall, set out early this morning to proceed in advance.
The Mojave guides accompanied them.

In the springs at camp, water is flowing, giving a bountiful supply for the train. The hill-
sides and ravines are covered with excellent grass, and though the weather remains unchanged,
threatening a snow-storm, the mules are partially sheltered, and will gain strength hy the
delay.

March T — Camp 141. — This morning we were up "betimes, and prepared for a long march.
The mules had heen well supplied with grass and water, and looked in excellent condition for the
journey. Instead of taking the road made hy the instrument wagon, which passed around the
hills, we followed an Indian trail through the ravine in which the spring occurs. The sides of
this ravine, and probably the whole mountain, are composed of compact sienite, of the same
quality as the so-called Quincy granite. It is excellent building material, and, if required, could
be obtained in great quantities. Leaving Rock spring with at least a,s much water as we found
in it, we passed over to a higher step of the same great plateau that for several days we have
been so gradually ascending. With a still gentle acclivity, it led us westward five miles to the
foot of a ridge, which at a distance looked like a formidable obstacle. To our surprise, how-
ever, upon reaching a point of hills without an abrupt change of grade, we entered a dry
arroyo which led through the mountains, forming an excellent pass for a road. When we had
fairly gained the western side of the range, the arroyo assumed the character of a rugged
ravine, and for a railway it would be necessary to traverse the hill-slope upon the right, and
descend to a wide and smooth valley which swept around to the southwest. Instead of follow-
ing this valley, which, after turning the base of a high hill, pursued a westwardly course, our
guide informed us that it was necessary to ascend a similar slope upon the opposite side to pro-
ceed in the direction of the spring. Looking back upon the ridge we had passed, it seemed to
extend to a considerable distance west of south, showing peaks with a light covering of snow,
two or three thousand feet in height above the level of the valley at its base. But there
appeared to be a low pass beyond.

Having made a noon halt, and grazed our mules for awhile on the excellent grama that grows
abundantly upon these gravelly prairies, we repacked and continued the march. Pursuing an
acclivity for five miles we reached "Marl spring," nineteen miles from the glen at which we
rested yesterday. The camp-fires of the advanced party were still burning, showing that they
had been but a short time absent. The spring was small, and there was not more than half
enough water for the mules. But as it constantly though slowly flowed in, after awhile the
animals were satisfied, and we obtained water for the uses of camp.

This country affords excellent grazing lands, similar to, but less extensive than those of New
Mexico. The grass is highly nutritious. Cactaceae are abundant. Tall and beautiful yuccas,
the offensive larrea Mexicana, and obione, complete the list of vegetation. Wood is almost
entirely wanting. For camp-fires we depend upon twigs of obione, (grease-wood), or the soft
pulpy stalks of the yucca.

The day has been wmdy, cold, and disagreeable.

SANDY DESERT. — SODA LAKE.

123

March 8 — Camp 142. — Our spring, this morning, was filled to the high-water mark, hut that
afforded sufficient only for a moderate allowance to each mule. Had we the means of exca-
vating to a greater depth, it is prohahle that an ahundant supply might he procured. One of
the herders found a second spring in a marly spot, where water trickled from the surface; hut
having no spade to clear out the dirt and rocks, only a few huckets full were obtained from it.
While packing up, Lieutenant Jones, with a detachment of the escort, arrived, having travelled
during the night. His mules looked fresh, and able to wait for water till the spring might he
filled.

We ascended a granitic ridge to cut off a detour which led around through the open valley
upon our left. From the hills we saw towards the north a row of volcanic peaks ; beyond
which appeared a deep and wide valley, probably that of the Mojave river. Still more distant
was a snow-capped mountain, said to be near Rio Virgen, or Santa Clara. Northwest was seen
the lofty range of the Sierra Madre, with several lesser ridges of mountains intervening.

Following the crest we soon came to a spur, along which we plunged down almost precip-
itously into the valley before mentioned, which sweeps around the southern base of the marl-
spring mountains. Then, following the arroyo which threaded this valley, we passed a gap
about a quarter of a mile wide, through metamorphic mountains ; and, without any apparent
change in the declivity, within a few miles entered a blank desert of drifted sand ; but the
surface was compact and hard, so that we passed easily and rapidly over it. In the midst of
this barren plain were iow isolated ridges of rocky hills, upon the northwest sides of which
sand was piled nearly to the tops, showing the direction of the prevailing winds. Our trail
passed between them, and a few miles beyond the sand disappeared. We then entered the dry
bed of a lake covered with efflorescent salts, probably sulphate of soda. Having traversed this
with a good road for about six miles, at ten o'clock in the evening we reached the camp of
Lieutenant Ives, where water and grass were abundant. The latter was salt, and the former
brackish ; but, nevertheless, they sufficed to relieve present necessities.

By odometer the distance from Marl springs is thirty miles — the greatest jornacla, without
water, that has been encountered upon our route. But, although the mules were much worn
down and wearied by the long-continued journey of many months, we have to-day lost not an
animal, and neither man nor beast has suffered from thirst. For an emigrant-road it is prob-
ably the best route yet discovered across this western desert.

From Bio Colorado our marches have been forced, from there not being subsistence sufficient
to afford time for explorations upon the right and left, as we desired. We were compelled to
follow the guidance of the Indians over a high point of the mountain range in order to obtain
water, and enable us to preserve and transport the collections and notes previously obtained ;
otherwise we would have tried to follow the bed of the Mojave river, provided this supposed
channel actually exists, even though its course should have been found more circuitous towards
the north; and we should have also explored farther south for a lower pass, which the conforma-
tion of the country we have seen appears to indicate. It is hoped that the party of Lieutenant
Williamson, which is believed to have had orders to proceed in this direction from the city of
San Francisco to the Colorado, has succeeded in obtaining all the information upon these points
which the government may require.

Upon our arrival at the camp of Lieutenant Ives, we found that Lieutenant Tidball, with the
escort and one of the guides, had gone on some twelve or fifteen miles farther to a point on the
Mojave river, where he expected to find a flowing stream of pure water and better grass. Those
who remained had seen Pai-Ute camp-fires near the mountains, and the Indian guide thought
that there was danger of an attack ; therefore the young gentlemen were themselves standing
guard, and were glad of a reinforcement. As Lieutenant Ives had completed a set of astro-
nomical observations, the labors for the day were ended, and all, except the watchful sentinels,
threw their blankets upon the luxuriant grass to obtain the rest which they needed.

March 9 — Gamp 143. — Once more we have charming weather, like that experienced upon the

124

SODA LAKE. — PRODUCTS OF COLORADO VALLEY.

Colorado and Bill Williams' fork. There is the same transparency of atmosphere at sunrise

so frequently noticed before.

Looking eastward, the mountains we have passed have a forbidding appearance, and even the
gap by which we entered the basin seems nearly closed by a projecting spur. Towards the
southeast is a great plain. The Mojave lake extends towards the north. Its height above the
Colorado is by survey seven hundred and sixty-six feet, and the distance from that river by our
trail is ninety-seven miles. This would seem to allow sufficient inclination for the channel of
a stream.

At last night's camp, wherever we turned the sod, water was found ; but it was highly
alkaline, effervescing with acids like Eochelle powders. Some of the soldiers reported that, near
by, they found a small quantity of fresh water. The lake for miles, as far as we could see, was
covered to the depth of about half an inch with an efflorescent powder, white, or having a yel-
lowish tinge, as if colored with oxide of iron. Mr. Marcou preserved specimens of it for futtire
analyzation. It may prove a profitable article of commerce. The water found in the marshy
pools was not palatable to men, but the mules drank it freely. At 10 a. m. we renewed our
march. The route was nearly west, through a wide valley of drifted sand. The day was
exceedingly warm, and the reflection of the sun's rays from the parched desert rendered the
journey more oppressive than any before experienced. Our mules suffered greatly ; six were
wearied out and left behind. At length, having accomplished twelve miles, we were gladdened
by the sight of Mojave river, a heautiful stream of fresh water, from ten to twenty feet wide,
and a foot deep. It flows rapidly upon a hard, pebbly channel ; and, a few hundred yards
below, suddenly disappears beneath the sand. The Indian says it does not rise again until it
reaches the Colorado. We encamped, and sent our mules to graze within ravines among the
hills, where was found a small quantity of grass, and an aromatic shrub which they browsed
upon very freely.

This evening our Indian guide repeated the ohject of the Mojaves and their chiefs in sending
him with us. "The road," said he, " is good. Water is sufficient. Mules do not die of thirst.
Mojaves have a good heart, and are friends to Americans. We want you to write these things
to your great chief, that his people may come and buy our corn and flour, and vegetables. Let
them, in return, give us clothing and knives. If they need assistance, Mojaves will afford it,
and will guide them where water and grass may be found." It would seem as if these simple
people were really pleased with the first dawning light of civilization. They feel the want of
comfortable clothing, and perceive some of the advantages of trade. There is no doubt that,
before many years pass away, a great change wTill take place in their country. The advancing
tide of emigration will soon take possession of it, and, unless the strong arm of government
protects them, the native population will be driven to the mountains or be exterminated. The
Mormons made a great mistake in not occupying the valley of the Colorado. They could there
produce articles for export, as well as for subsistence. Tobacco is indigenous to the soil, and
might he cultivated, as it is hy the Pima Indians, on the Gila. Cotton, also, is probably of
native growth, as it was raised extensively in the same region when first visited by Spaniards,
in 1539. Specimens of it cultivated hy Pimas and Maricopas upon the Gila have been pro-
nounced by southern planters nearly equal to the best Sea Island variety. For adaptation to
the cultivation of all kinds of grain and vegetables, the Colorado valley can scarcely be sur-
passed. Upon the wide and rich hottom-lands below the junction of the Gila, sugar, and pos-
sibly rice, might be raised. In that fertile region, now densely covered with mezquite forests,
about ten miles from the river, may yet be seen the acequias of a Spanish colony, which, some
fifty or sixty years since, attempted to gain a foothold there. Indians, however, jealous of the
encroachments of whites, exterminated the settlers, as they had previously done the mis-
sionaries at the junction. Since that time they were undisturbed until 1849, when we went
among them to establish the boundary between the United States and Mexico.

With regard to the navigation of the Colorado river, the report of Capt. Sitgreaves will prob-

TRAIL OF LIEUT. WILLIAMSON'S PARTY. — MISSING HERDER. 125

ably be explicit. It is well known tbat steamers of light draught already carry supplies for the
troops as high as Fort Yuma. Mr. Leroux, who accompanied Capt. Sitgreaves, and who, years
ago, trapped upon this river for beaver, says that, from Fort Yuma to the mouth of Kio Virgen,
there seemed to be a deep channel without rapids. According to our observations, though the
current is rapid, the inclination is less than one foot per mile : the depth appears to^ be suffi-
ciently great to allow the passage of small steamboats.

The night being favorable, magnetic and astronomical observations have been obtained.
The moon was observed with the transit, for the determination of the longitude of camp.

March 10 — Camp 144. — A breeze from the Sierra Nevada rendered the morning cool. Taking
an early start, we ascended the stream to a gorge formed by the jutting of hills into the valley.
The surveying party, with the spring-wagon, followed the banks, but the pack-train took an
Indian trail over the hills, to avoid a bend. It proved an unwise experiment, as not much dis-
tance was saved, and the steep precipices ascended and descended strained the heavily-laden
beasts. Upon one cliff, the trail, for about a hundred yards, threaded the verge of a precipice,
and a mis-step, or a slide of a few inches, would have plunged them down a chasm several hun-
dred feet deep. It was curious to witness how fearlessly the sure-footed animals would stop to
look over, and then quietly move on. Ee-entering the valley of the river, we found a broad
trail, supposed to have been made by the party of Lieut. Williamson on its way to the Colorado.
Near by were large masses of dried grass and rushes, which may have been collected by Indians
for winter huts and beds. Here the river was quite wide, and in places knee-deep. Its banks
were of a rich loamy soil, covered with grass, reeds, willows, and thickets of mezquite trees.

Keeping the trail, with the pack-train, we ascended an arroyo and crossed a spur of hills.
The day had become warm, and the animals faint ; therefore, finding good grass, we made a
mid-day halt. Afterwards, proceeding to the river, we encamped, having plenty of mezquite
wood, a stream of pure water, and good grazing for our animals in the valley. The survey
followed the banks of the river, thirteen miles from last camp. For a portion of the distance
the stream was lost beneath a sandy bed.

One weary mule was to-day left by the roadside, and will probably make a good meal for the
hungry Pai-Utes who are watching our movements. Many tracks, a few hours' old, have been
noticed proceeding from the hills to the valley.

The night is serene. The moon shines upon a few fleecy clouds, which form colored coronce.
There is not a breath of air to disturb the astronomical observations.

March 11 — Camp 145. — Sunrise was unusually gorgeous, with various shades of crimson-
tinted clouds, announcing the approach of a storm. The surveying party proceeded up the
valley towards "Punta del Agua," on "the Spanish trail," supposed to be ten miles ahead.
With the packs we proposed to follow ; but, when prepared to start, it was reported, by the
head packer for the escort, that one of his Mexicans herders had yesterday been left behind,
alone and unarmed, in charge of two tired mules ; and that he had not yet made his appearance.
Defenceless, and with animals to tempt the cupidity of Indians, who in considerable numbers
are evidently watching us, there could scarcely be a doubt of the fate of this poor man. How-
ever, Lieutenant Jones, Lieutenant Stanley, Dr. Bigelow, ten soldiers, four Mexican packers,
and seven persons belonging to the surveying corps, returned to search for him ; Lieutenant
Ives, with the rest of the escort, guarding the camp. Feeling anxiety, also, regarding the
small detachment that had advanced with the survey, the remaining portion of the party pro-
ceeded to join it.

Above camp, the valley of the river became more fertile, the rich loamy soil producing herb-
age and trees upon both banks of the stream. By an arroyo we ascended to a low mesa, cutting
off a southern bend of the river, and traversed the edge of a level prairie of great extent,
covered with an abundance of green bunch-grass. Travelling slowly for a while, our mules
fed until they were satisfied. Then again we entered the bottom-lands which spread out to the
width of several miles, and while ascending the well-wooded banks night overtook us. Accord-

126

REMARKS ON CONFLUENCE OF MOJAVE RIVER WITH THE COLORADO.

ing to the prediction of the morning, there arose a storm of wind and thick clouds. In the
darkness we lost the trail, and were apprehensive of passing the camp of the surveying party
without seeing it. At length, however, after a weary march, we caught sight of bright fires,
which led us to our friends. They had selected an excellent camp-ground. Mezquites, bearing
tornillas, afforded forage for mules and fuel. Beneath meandered the quiet stream of limpid
water. Upon each bank, grass grew luxuriantly. This pleasant spot would be favorable for a
settlement. The soil is so fertile that irrigation might not be required. The river, however,
would supply acequias to water a considerable portion of the valley.

The Indian who guided Lieutenant Tidball to the Mormon road, having performed his
promise, met us this evening on his way home. Lieutenant Tidball with his escort has pushed
on towards the settlements.

March 12 — Camp 145. — We remained in camp to-day to await the arrival of the rear party,
and learn the success of the expedition which went to find the missing Mexican, or chastise the
mountain Pai-Utes. Meanwhile our Mojave guides prepared to take le ive of us and return to
the Colorado, They were loaded with presents of blankets and cast-off clothing, and were well
content therewith.

We determined to make a final effort to free our minds from doubts with reference to the
continuance of the Mojave river, or rather to ascertain whether there existed a bed or channel
for it entirely to the Colorado. As the dry bed of Soda lake lies a short distance below the last
point of the river where a flowing stream has been seen, and as it was found covered with efflor-
escent salts, giving it something of the character of the lakes farther north, in which streams of
that country are lost, inference might lead to the conclusion that it should be classed in the same
general system as the so-called Great Basin. Mr. Marcou and myself were inclined to entertain
this idea. In opposition to it, is the popular belief, probably not without foundation, of the
confluence of Mojave river with the Colorado.

In making inquiries of the Indians we were cautious not to incline their minds to any
preconceived notions of our own by asking leading questions. But we traced in the sand a
depression to denote the valley of the Colorado, and in the middle represented the meandering
river, which they recognised. Heaps of sand piled on each side, and called "sierras," they
understood to denote mountains. Our trail was then marked out, indicating the camps and
the springs, and the mountains crossed, from the Mojave villages to the flowing water of Rio
Mojave. Thence we represented the valley of that river by a channel scooped from the sand,
indicating where there was water, and where there was none. Then we inquired of the
Indians whether or not that channel was lost in the lake. The guide understood the question,
and instantly with his hand cut a passage through the heaps of sand that had been piled upon
the ground-map for mountains around the lake, representing a continuous valley to the arroyo
by which we had left the Colorado. Pointing along the line traced, he said it was a smooth
arroyo, containing no water upon the surface, nor obstructed by hills ; but the valley was
wide, level, and sandy throughout. When asked if the distance was great, he replied that it
was ; and counting with his fingers, he indicated ten as the number of days required to travel
it with our wagons. His previous estimates for a day's march have averaged thirteen miles,
making the length of the route by the river one hundred and thirty miles.

We had an unexpected view this evening of the wide bottom-lands upon the river. After
dark, the herders carelessly allowed the fire upon the right bank to seize the tall and thick grass.
It spread with fearful rapidity. We rushed into it with wet blankets, and after laborious
exertions succeeded in breaking the immense circle of flame so as to give security to camp.
Upon the other side it rolled on, like a vast wave, down the valley. Fortunately the stream
was wide enough to prevent its passage to the left bank, or it might have caused a serious
calamity to the rear party which was advancing. It proved rather of service, enabling them
to follow our trail to camp, where they arrived at 9 p. m. Mournful tidings were brought of
Torrivia, the lost Mexican herder. Our worst fears were realized. The first party that had

SEARCH FOR MISSING HERDER.

127

gone back in search of the man returned the same evening without having been successful in
discovering any traces of him, though the body of the abandoned mule, with an arrow buried in
its side, which was found near the spot where the Mexican had been last seen, gave unmis-
takeable evidence of the late presence of Pai-Utes. There was scarcely room for doubt as to the
fate of the poor fellow; but it was determined that one more attempt should be made, at least, to
find his body, and give it proper burial ; and the next morning Lieut. Ives, with Lieut. Stanley,
Dr. Kennerly, Mr. Campbell, Mr. Mollhausen, and four Mexicans, started to make a thorough
search. Going back about six miles they entered a deep ravine through which the train had
passed, and near whose mouth Torrivia, with the two tired mules, had been last seen. Many
narrow gorges conducted back into a labyrinth of sand-hills that extended a long distance to
the south. Carefully examining the entrance to each of these, the faint impress of a mule's
foot was finally discovered. The nature of the ground rendered it difficult to perceive any
tracks, but closer inspection showed at last that a party of Indians driving two mules had gone
that way. As they ascended the gorge the trail became more distinct; and, though occasionally
lost, it was always found again, and the pursuers followed it successfully several miles back,
now passing over steep hills, and again threading deep and narrow chains that wound between
high walls of sand and gravel. In one of these they came upon a cunning hiding-place which
the Pai-Utes had occupied several hours previously. The remains of a mule were here seen, show-
ing that they had had a feast upon part of their booty. From all appearances they must have
eaten the flesh nearly if not quite raw. As there was every indication that they had been gone
for some time, and as it was supposed that they were still a long distance ahead, the pursuing
party were less careful to preserve silence in their movements, and one or two words were
spoken in an unguarded tone, afterwards much regretted ; for, following the trail onward,
in a few minutes a sudden turn brought them into the very midst of the enemy's camp, from
which it was evident the Indians had fled in the utmost haste, but a few moments before. A fire
was burning, and upon it were large pieces of mule-meat that had only just been placed there
to roast, for they were still bloody and raw. The surrounding hills entirely excluded the view,
but there was an instant scattering in all directions to overtake the late occupants of the camp.
The latter, however, were too fleet, and having the advantage of a perfect knowledge of the
country, which was admirably adapted to furnish hiding-places, succeeded to a man in effecting
their escape, and the pursuers came back, one by one, disappointed. The party of Pai-Utes ap-
parently numbered fifteen or twenty. In their flight they had dropped most of their camp fur-
niture and property. Baskets, cooking utensils, clothing, and even their bows and arrows, were
found scattered upon the adjoining slopes. The clothes of the murdered Mexican were also found,
literally riddled by arrows, and stiff with hardened blood. He had probably been killed by a
party in ambush as he was driving his mules along the ravine. A long and laborious search
for the body was ineffectual ; and, after burning and destroying everything belonging to the
Indians that could be found, Lieut. Ives and his party returned to the camp.

March 13 — Camp 146. — In the cool air of the morning, our Mojave guides having taken leave
of us, we proceeded onward towards the Pacific. Soon ascending a mesa to avoid a bend of the
river, we overlooked a large extent of valley with prairie beyond. Southeast, towards the mouth
of Bill Williams' fork, the plain extended to the horizon.

Having travelled about six miles, we struck the Mormon road. Upon it were fresh wagon
tracks leading towards tbe Salt Lake City. At the crossing the stream was flowing, and the
land fertile ; buff having been much used for a camp ground by emigrant parties, grass was
scarce. The road was found excellent. The river as we ascended grew larger, and sunk less
frequently beneath the surface. Cotton-wood and mezquite trees were more abundant. After
a march of twenty miles on a general course west-southwest, we encamped. Near this point is
said to be the trail which leaves the river and ascends the prairie slope towards Walker's Pass.
There are a few isolated hills intervening, but none to interrupt a nearly uniform grade to an

128

MORMON ROAD.

apparent gap in the low ridge south of the great Sierra.* The prairie looks dry, and the dis-
tance from water to water is not known hy any one attached to our party. Neither Savedra
nor Leroux has traversed it.

* The literal meaning of sierra is " saw;" and hence, " ridge of mountains." Any one who has seen the sharp serrated profiles
of mountain chains in New Mexico and California, will understand the propriety of the term.

CHAPTER XVI.

From the Mormon road to the Pacific.

Mormon travellers— Cajon Pass. — Timber. — Express from Jarupa. — Disbanding of party. — Cocomonga. — Cahnillas. — El Monte. —
Mormons at San Bernardino. — Mission of San Gabriel. — Los Angeles. — Sale of property. — San Pedro.

March 14 — Camp 147. — At sunrise we resumed the survey. The road was good ; the air
calm and clear. A short distance above our last camp the valley became contracted, and in
the midst of it were rocky hills in pyramidal forms, dividing the river into two large brooks,
which encompassed the bottom-lands, and united far below, forming a large island. At length,
as we proceeded, in order to shorten the distance, the road again left the valley, and crossed a
gravelly ridge, where we met a small party of Mormons en route for Salt Lake City. They
informed us of the melancholy fate of the lamented Capt. Gunnison and a portion of his party,
but professed to have no fears themselves of the Pah Utahs, because, they said, the Indians were
at peace with Mormons. Although it may be in accordance with an old system of the Mexican
government, it is a new feature in ours, for one State or Territory to be at peace with a ban/l of
Indians known to be hostile to, or at war with the rest. For many years it has been the practice
of the Apaches, who reside upon the frontiers of Chihuahua and Sonora, when meditating an
attack upon one, to make peace with the other. The mules and horses then taken are hastily
driven to the neighboring State, and there disposed of at low prices. But the practice should
not be permitted within our limits.

Having made a noon halt to graze the mules, we continued our journey until dark ; and, in
an inviting part of the valley, encamped, after a march of twenty-two miles.

March 15 — Gamp 148. — We were awakened this morning by a heavy shower of rain ; but
we packed up, and moved onward, passing a very pretty country, well adapted for settlement.
It is said that the Mormons propose soon to take possession of it.

Having travelled upon the right bank of the river about fifteen miles, in a course nearly
southwest, we arrived at a bend where the road to the Cajon separates from the valley. We
crossed the stream; here about 150 feet wide, and in places 1\ feet deep; and, at the foot of the
left bank, halted for rest and refreshment. Noticing several patches of verdure upon the steep
slopes, we ascended, and found large springs of water gushing from the bank about fifty feet
above the river, having a temperature of 66°. 4 Fahrenheit, which we may, therefore, adopt as,
approximately, the mean temperature at this place.

Having rested until 3.30 p. m., the survey was continued. From the top of the bank, some
100 feet high, we looked back upon the pretty valley, its meandering stream traceable to a
great distance by a fringe of foliage. Doubtless ere long it will be covered with villages and
farms. Our course, now directed towards an apparent break in the range near San Bernardino
mountain, is nearly south 38° west by compass; the magnetic variation being about 14° east of
north. We are ascending the prairie slope, which, extending to the base of the great Sierra,
leads to every pass in the chain which might communicate with the Tulare valley. Our pro-
visions are so nearly exhausted, as to place it out of our power to make an examination of those
passes without first obtaining an additional supply. Lieut. Jones, with the escort, has been
already obliged, on this account, to push ahead for the settlements. Therefore we propose to
follow him and proceed by the shorter route through the Cajon, continuing to take notes and
make sketches of the route we traverse.
17 h

130

CAJON PASS. — GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY.

The ascent from the river's bank has been quite gradual. Tall yucca trees soon made their
appearance. Afterwards we entered thickets of cedars interspersed with artemisia and green
bunch-grass ; where, about fifteen miles from the point of leaving the river, we encamped.
There is no water at this point. The Mojave river appears to be several miles distant upon the
left. Leroux, who has previously travelled the old Spanish trail, which follows that stream to
its head, says it is divided into three branches ; the most eastern having its source near Cajon
Pass. The evening is cool, with the thermometer at 38° Fahrenheit, but sufficiently calm and
clear to afford an opportunity for.making astronomical observations.

March 16 — Camp 149. — The night had been rendered uncomfortable by a chilling blast from
snow-covered peaks of a mountain some fifteen miles southwest, called by Leroux "San Ga-
briel." We packed up by moonlight, and at sunrise contiuued the survey. For the first four
miles and a half we ascended at a nearly uniform rate of eighty-one feet per mile. Thence we
rose more rapidly, making about 800 feet in 4.5 miles, which placed us upon the summit of
Cajon Pass. The crest was a sharp and narrow "divide," formed by a ridge of hills, with
gravel and sand upon the surface. Westwardly, and thence curving around towards the
north, there seemed, from the base of the rugged mountains, an extension of the same smooth
slope that we had traversed from the bend of the Mojave river. But towards the south was
presented scenery quite different. Between lofty mountains there was a deep ravine, through
which, in the distance, could be seen a great plain or valley lying thousands of feet below. To
the foot of the gravelly ridge upon which we stood, the angle of inclination was about 45°.
But the road followed a slight spur, and by that our descent in one mile was 820 feet. That
brought us into an arroyo, or creek, which threads the ravine. At this place we were on nearly
the same level as at a point measured on our trail, five and a half miles distant, upon the
other side of the summit. A careful survey, tracing upon the ground a horizontal curve through
either of the points mentioned, would probably discover a place where the width of the crest
might be somewhat less. But it is evident that, for a railroad through this pass, there would
be required a long and expensive tunnel. From the southern foot of the sharp crest referred
to, keeping the dry channel of Cajon creek, we descended, in two miles, 250 feet, and there
found water. Continuing our march, the ravine became rougher and steeper; the descent
along the trickling stream being nearly 500 feet in 3.36 miles. Having now travelled about
twenty-five miles from the Mojave river, we made a halt, to allow the animals to drink and
graze. We then descended four miles farther down the rocky ravine, and encamped for the
night. This last declivity was slightly less than 100 feet per mile.

The geological formation of this range of mountains is quite interesting ; white marble and red
porphyry being found, and indications also of gold and silver mines. The time of its upheaval
proves to have been later than heretofore supposed, Mr. Marcou placing it somewhere in the
tertiary period.* We are again in a woodland region. Scattering pinons, oaks, and sycamores,

* The following letter from Baron Humboldt, describing the chemical composition of some of the volcanic rocks collected by
our geologist, will be read with great interest:

d Potsdam, au Chateau de la Ville, d 18 Aout, 1855.
Monsieur: Si j'offre si tard l'homraage de ma vive et affectueuse reconnaissance a Monsieur le Pr. Lieutenant Whipple pour
les interessantes communications qu'il a bien voulu me faire, ce retard n'a en pour cause que l'absence d'un savant geologue,
que j'ai voulu faire jouir de l'examen des roches volcaniques que nous devons a vos bontes Monsieur. Cest un monde nou-
veau pour le rapport de la geologic que votre important ouvrage nous fera connaitre. Mr. Mollhausen

* * * vous dirait avec quel scrupuleux inlet et nous avons cherches sur les cartes les localites des sites ou M.
Jules Marcou, savant et zele geologue, a recueilli Its roches, choisies avec cette intelligence qui en facilite l'etudo du composi-
tion mineralogique. Cet aper^u geologique devient doubltment inteiessant lorsqu' on le voit complete par l'examen des vues
pittoresques tracees avec un vrai talent par votre topographe et habile des>iuateur, Mr. Mollhausen. On possede par la a la fois
les contours des montagnes, les traits physionoiuiques des formations de roches et la possibility d'en determiner la composition
mincralogique. Le "Resum6 of a geological reconnaissance between the junction of the Arkansas and the Mississippi and% the
Pueblo de los Angeles, in Califoi-uia" (Chapter VI of Doc. 129) embrasse, d'une mauiere tres piquante; ler, l'etendue des form-
ations secondares et tertiares que Ton ne connaissait pas a cette latitude dans ses frappautes analogies avec l'Europe; et 2emc;
les cones volcaniques qui les ont perccs et recouverts d'immenses "overtlowings of lava." La collection de roches que nous
devons a vos bontes par la genereuse permission de Monsieur le Secretaire de la Guerre a ete deposee a votre noin au cabinet

SAN BERNARDINO. INDIAN DEPREDATIONS.

131

appear in the ravines, or upon the hill-sides. Towards the tops of the mountains are firs and
pines, excellent for timher. A few miles east from this place is a saw-mill, where the Mormons
of San Bernardino are said to manufacture good lumber.

Upon arriving at our camp ground, we found a Mormon from San Bernardino come out to
meet us with a load of provisions for sale. He professed to he one of the Saints, but neverthe-
less charged most exorbitant prices for his sugar, flour, and coffee. He also smuggled in a keg
of whiskey ; but as none of the men have money, it is likely to return untouched.

The Cajon in which we are encamped is said to be a bad place with respect to Indian depre-
dations. Marauding parties, supposed to be sometimes led by outlawed white men in disguise,
lurk here until a favorable opportunity is presented, when tbey rush down into the valley and
drive off the stock from a rancho, or from some emigrant camp. At the place of our noon halt
we saw vestiges of Indian huts, broken pottery, and metates. One of the latter was fashioned
with considerable skill. The exterior was hemispherical, with a conical cup in the centre
capable of holding about two quarts of grain. The rock was of sienite, hard, polished, smooth,

mineralogique de l'universite a Berlin. Les roches annoncent au Rio del Norte pres d' Albuquerque et plus au sud-ouest une
formation de granite blanc, abondant en mica a base de potasse (Kali-Glimmer.) A l'ouest de la haute crete des montagnes
(Sierra Madre) il y a deux vastes regions volcaniques et trachytiques que je distinguerai sous les noms de regions de Mount
Taylor et des Cerros de San Francisco.

I. RSgion de Mount Taylor. Le cime est un volcan ctient entoure de courants de lave. II y a des trachytes riches en
petits cristeaux de feldspath-vitreux (glasiger, feldspatb, saridin) et vrai semblablement aussi d'un peu d'oligoclase. Pres de
Cieneguilla, entre Santa Fe et Albuquerque, est une roche de trachyte dioritique composee d'amphibole (hornblende) et de ©ris-
taux d'oligoclase tres distinccs. Ce trachyte parait recouvrir la partie occidentale des Rocky mountains. II renferme aussi de
l'olivine (peridot ) Des courants de lave noire se sont epanches sur le calcaire blanc de la formation jurassique (Jura Talg-
stein.) Toute cette region volcanique est a l'est de Zuni.

II. Region de la Sierra de San Francisco, a l'occident du vieux Zuni. Les echantillons portes des rives de Mojave river, qui
se reuuit au Rio Colorado annoncent le metne trachyte, compose de hornblende et d'oligoclase, des environs de Mount Taylor.
A la haute cordillere de San Francisco, surtout au Picacho, il y a des basaltes avec olivine et de plus des courants de lave a base
de Obsidieime. Des echantillons pris par la rive du Colorado sont une roche de Serpentine.

Comme dans ces derniers terns le composition des trachytes qui forment les volcans de la partie centrale du Mexique (sous
les 19° de latitude) a ete examine avec beaucoup de soin, il n'est pas sans interet de remarquer ici que les trachytes des deux
regions de Mount Taylor et de la Sierra de San Francisco, identiques entre elles, se trouvent repetes dans les trachytes des
volcans de Toluca et du Pic d'Orizaba ties dilferents de la roche du Popocatepetl et du volcan de Colima, presque dans la
latitude de la capitale du Mexique. Les deux derniers sont composes d'oligoclase et d'Augite (pyroxene) tandisque les volcans
de Toluca et d'Orizabe, comme vos regions a Test et a l'ouest de Zuni, offrent de l'oligoclase avec de la hornblende, roche de la
famille des diorites Le tout se fonde sur l'examen rigoureux du chimiste geolugue, M. le Professeur Gustave Rose, mon
compagnon dans 1' expedition de Siberie. J'ajoute encore que la formation de hornblende et d'oligoclase se retrouve aussi dans
les volcans eteints de la Grece (He d'Egine) dans l'Asie Mineur, et a l'ile de Tara, comme cela se trouvera expose plus au long
dans le 4me et dernier volume de mon Cosmos qui pourra etre publie bientot.

Je ne puis terminer ces lignes sans vous repeter, mon cher Monsieur, combien ont ete instructifs pour moi le " complete set
of the printed reports," et les cartes que vous avez bien vou'lus ajouter a votre envoi. Je eompte ecrire moi-meme a M. Wil-
liam Blake, qui a suivi l'Expedition du Comm. Lieut. Williamson, et dont le geological report est plein d'interet scientifique.
J'accepterai pour enrichir le cabinet de l'Universite de Berlin, avec le plus vive reconnaissance, quelques echantillons des roches
volcaniques ou plutoniques, que M. Blake nous fait esperer. Les plus petits fragmens, a fraiche cassure, sont precieux lorsqu'ils
ont ete recueillis par de savantes et intelligentes mains.

Nous avons ete si contents de ce que nous devons a votre bienveillance que nous n'appelerons pas de nouveau a la generosit6
de S. E. Monsieur le Secretaire de la Guerre. Ce serait en abuser que d'accepter ses offres. II est reste, parmi toutes les nations
eclairees de l'Europe, un sentiment de vive reconnaissance au gouverneinent des Etats Unis, pour les nobles sacrifices qu'il n'a
cesse de faire pour rendre utile au progres des connaissances humaines de grandes expeditions imimement liees a l'avaucement
de la prosperity publique. Le principe liberal de la publicite ajoute a ce bienfait.

Agreez, je vous prie, monsieur, I'assurance renouvellee de la hauce et affectueuse consideration avec laquelle j'ai l'honneur
d'etre,

Votre tres-humble et tres devoue serv.,

Comme, a mon grand age, j'ecris d'une maniere si illisible, j'ai prie M. Mollhausen de traduire en Anglais un extrait de cette
lettre, pour le cas ou vous voudriez vous en servir pour vos publications.
Mr. A. W. Whipple,

1st Lieutenant Top. Eng. U. S. Army, Washington, D. C, U. S. of North America.

132

PASSES OF SIERRA NEVADA. — REVIEW OF ROUTE.

and symmetrical within and without. The pottery was rough, unpainted, and unglazed.
The huts covered circular depressions in the ground about ten feet in diameter, and two
feet deep. The day has been clear, but with a cold wind from the snowy peaks of San
Gabriel. They appear to be ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. Tall pines crown
their summits.

March 17 — Camp 149. — Finding the Cajon so difficult for a railroad passage to the Pacific,
we greatly desired to examine Walker's Pass into Tulare valley. But on consultation, several
obstacles were opposed to the undertaking; one of them being the fear of spring freshets, which
usually make the mountain streams in that region impassable. As the question was under
consideration, a messenger arrived from Capt. Lovell, bringing letters and papers. The latter
gave accounts from Lieut. Williamson and Capt. Stoneman, making known the fact that all
the passes, from Walker's to the Cajon inclusive, had been thoroughly explored by parties under
their direction. It was therefore evident that, as the department had already obtained the
desired information upon that question, further examinations would not be expected of us ; and,
our share of the appropriation being nearly exhausted, we determined to diminish the party at
once, and then push rapidly on to Los Angeles.

It is Avith much satisfaction that we learn the success that attended the survey of Lieutenant
Williamson ; for we are assured, from the appearance of the country forming the western shed
of the mountains, that every pass leading into the Tulare valley is accessible from the Mojave
river ; and that point being passed, our route will terminate at San Francisco.

We remained in camp during the day, and paid off and discharged all the laborers of the
party excepting a few Mexican herders, who are needed to guard the mules.

Our field labors, therefore, may now be looked upon as completed. It remains to develop in
detail the results that may be gathered from the material that has been collected. Until this
be accomplished, no definite nor satisfactory evidence can be given to others of the success that
has attended our operations ; but, to ourselves, there is no doubt remaining that, for the con-
struction of a railway, the route wc have passed over is not only practicable, but, in many
respects, eminently advantageous. The first six hundred and fifty miles, from the eastern
border of the Choctaw territory to the river Pecos, possesses, in the valley of the Canadian, a
natural highway that establishes, beyond question, the superior advantages of this belt of
country over any other that can be selected, between the same degrees of longitude, within the
limits of our territory. The Canadian seems formed by nature for the special object in view.
Its general course, for the distance alluded to, is nearly east. Its mean inclination is but nine
feet to the mile ; thus enabling us almost imperceptibly to attain the summit of the lofty table-
lands of New Mexico. Expensive excavations and embankments are entirely avoided ; and, not-
withstanding the numerous affluents that fertilize and enrich the adjacent country, few bridges
are required, as most of the water-courses sink beneath the surface as they approach the great
valley. Upon the eastern portion valuable coal mines exist, and vast forests of oak may furnish
an unfailing supply of timber and fuel. The Cross Timbers extend to the meridian of 99° west
from Greenwich, and the wooded branches of the False Washita afford abundance of the same
material for fifty or sixty miles beyond. Sandstone, quick-lime, and gypsum, are found
throughout the whole distance. If the fertile valleys were thrown open to settlers, and
an outlet secured for the products of the soil, this region would form the nucleus of new
States, and the roving tribes of Indians that now occupy it would give place to a flourishing
population. It is believed that in climate, as well as soil, this countr}r far surpasses that of
Kansas.

Westward from the Eio Grande, the valley of the river Gila, though somewhat inferior to
the Canadian as regards fertility of soil and its supplies of timber and fuel, presents similar
advantages, in respect to the direction of its course, and the facilities it would afford for laying
a railway. If the harbor of San Diego were selected as the terminus of the road, there would
be no doubt that the road should follow the valleys of the two above-mentioned rivers ; and a

REVIEW OF ROUTE.

133

suitable connection might be established between their sources, either by following down the
valley of the Rio Grande, or, more directly, by exploring for a route from the headwaters of
Pajarito creek to some point on the Rio Grande, near the Mesilla valley.* As San Francisco,
however, must necessarily be the terminus of the main branch of the Pacific railroad, to follow
the Gila would increase the distance several hundred miles. This divergence may be avoided
by continuing upon the route we have now traversed.

Between Rio Grande and the Colorado, we passed through a region which, though to a
great extent fertile in nutritious grasses, and abounding in woodlands, springs, and streams,
possesses the disadvantage of being intersected by several mountain chains. But, through them,
we have discovered passes that render the route practicable, if not easy ; and the knowledge
now possessed of the country is sufficient to point out for examination many short lines of inter-
section, where, doubtless, the length of the trail might be shortened, or the grades diminished.
From the Colorado to the upper waters of Mojave river — thought he soil is more waterless and
barren — there is no serious obstacle to the construction of a railway. Upon either side of our
trail, a better line doubtless exists ; and, to connect with a pass to Tulare valley and San Fran-
cisco, it is believed that our general route will be found highly favorable.

A constant succession of light showers has occurred during the day. Night brings no sign
of approaching fair weather.

March 18 — Camp 150. — At daybreak the camp equipage was nearly as wet as when it was
gathered up from the water of Rio Colorado; and the once goodly tents, now shaved down to
shreds to diminish the weight to be transported, afforded little protection from the incessant
rain. The poor mules, with curved back, and four feet drawn into a bunch, looked the picture
of discomfort, as with ill grace they submitted to the galling packs. Recommencing our ope-
rations, the descent, for a few miles, was along the steep and rocky bed of Cajon creek, which
has received several tributaries, and is now a good-sized mountain rivulet. Six miles brought
us to a spur which followed the right bank of the creek, and separated it from a smaller ravine
called "El puerto de los Negros."

We now left the road which leads to San Bernardino, and to the military post at Jarupa,
and turned westward along the base of the mountain chain towards Los Angeles. The cold

* Note. — About the time that this report was ready to be submitted to the department, a letter was received by the Chief of the
Corps of Topographical Engineers, containing information in regard to this subject. By his kind permission it has been copied,
and is herewith subjoined. The writer, for many years, has been stationed in New Mexico, and has bestowed much attention
upon the character of the country, particularly with reference to the object in view. His opinions are therefore entitled to great
consideration. The map referred to has not yet been received at the bureau.

Headquarters Third Infantry, Fort Fillmore, N. M.,

September V, 1855.

Colonel: I have the honor to inform you that I have given a map of a reconnaissance made by me, over and through the
Sacramento and White mountain ranges, to Lieut. Parke, of your corps, to deliver to you. Its chief value consists in exhibiting
a pass, and the only one in the whole range of what may be called the Guadalupe, Sacramento, Capitan, and White mountains,
in almost a plain, going east, by ascending the Tulirosa to its head, crossing a dividing ridge with easy slopes of a short dis-
tance, (the only elevation of the whole route,) and then descending the Cerrissa to its junction with the Ruidosa; thence to t ho
junction of the Bonita — which forms the Honda, which empties into the Pecos — turns to the south of the Capitan mountain,
opening into the extended plain of the Pecos, reaching as high as Anton Chico.

The Ruido=a, Cerrissa, and Tulirosa are densely covered \;ith the largest and finest pine timber found within the limits of New
Mexico.

This map may be useful to you at this particular time, by showing how the best survey, east and west of the Rio Grande, ran
be connected, with the least expense, in making the Pacific railway. I refer to Captain Whipple's survey up the Canadian, with
Lieut. Parke's down the Gila.

The distance from the southeast point of the Capitan to Anton Cbico is estimated at about one hundred miles; it has
been surveyed. The map contains the other distances, as taken by viameter, to the Bonita : from that crossing to the southeast
point of Capitan is not over ten miles.

I have the honor, Colonel, to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant,

D. J. MILES,
Liculcnant Colonel, Third Infantry.

Colonel J. J. Abert,

Chief Topographical Bureau, Washington City, D. C.

134

VALLEY LEADING TO LOS ANGELES. — COCOMONGA. — CAHUILLAS.

drizzling rain yet falling, covered and frequently concealed the top of the Sierra. But near
the hase were forests of trees uniting with smooth grassy slopes, and hright green patches of
wild oats stretching far down into the valley. Issuing from ravines among the mountains were
several turbid streams, whose existence depends upon the rainy season. Some of them were
already difficult to cross. Leaving the immediate hase of the mountains, we entered the great
grassy plain which inclines gently towards the south, where, many miles distant, there seems
to he the trace of a permanent stream flowing westward nearly parallel to our course. The
intermediate plain contained numerous herds of horses and cattle grazing upon the immense
sheet of tall and luxuriant grass. It was variegated with an abundance of bright flowers, and
much of the shrubbery that lined the numerous streams coming down from the mountains was
in full bloom.

At length, after a march of twenty miles, we arrived at the rancho of Cocomonga, and
encamped upon a pretty stream that waters it. The house of Senor Prudhomme, the owner,
stands upon a grassy knoll, and had been visible nearly the whole day. Below it are cultivated
fields and vineyards. The rivulet is fed by permanent springs near the base of the mountain,
and after fertilizing a considerable extent of the valley, passes among some low hills to join
the Santa Ana.

We are told that the rainy season is now in full vigor, giving showers every day. When-
ever the air proceeds from the mountains, it comes saturated with moisture. Coast breezes are
followed by pleasant weather.

March 19 — Camp 150. — Several mules strayed yesterday morning, and were not missed until
night. We agreed to rest here for the day, in order to allow the herders to go back for them.
They set out at daybreak, and at dark returned quite successful. The animals had been found
where they were left, undisturbed by any of the mountain robbers. But we are told here that
the settlers deem it necessary to watch their herds with as much vigilance as if they were
upon the prairies, in the midst of wild Indians.

Our camp is near a rancheria of Cahuillas, who appear to be peons of Cocomonga. With
them is an old Indian, dressed in an entirely new suit, in the style of a California ranchero,
and he professes to have come from Jose Antonio, the general-in-chief of the tribe. His object
is to learn from us, officially, whether the Californians have told them the truth in saying that
Santa Ana was on his way hither to drive the Americans from the land. The old fellow said
that he was not a Cahuilla, but a Christian, because, when a boy, a priest at San Luis Bey took
and converted him. After the missions of California were broken up, he returned to his own
people under the government of General Jose Antonio, but he declares that he has lost none of
the doctrines taught by the padres. As he spoke Spanish, we were enabled to obtain a vocab-
ulary of his native tongue. When questioned regarding the religion and traditions of his
tribe, he became very cautious, seeming to think that we might have some sinister object in
view. His people are a filthy and a miserable-looking set, and great beggars, presenting an
unfavorable contrast to the Indians upon the Colorado.

During the day there has been a constant succession of April-like showers, with bright sun-
shine between. A rainbow at sunset promised fair weather for the morrow.

In the storehouse of Mr. Prudhomme we found many barrels of wine, manufactured from his
vineyards ; but it was new, and not pleasant to our taste. The hedges around the gardens
were formed of huge cactuses, growing twelve to fifteen feet in height. The leaves, or, as they
are more properly called, joints, are about a foot and a half in diameter. This variety of
cactus is probably not native, but imported from Spain by the Jesuits. It bears a purple fruit,
called tuna, much prized for food by the people of this country. It somewhat resembles a large
plum.

March 20 — Camp 151. — We prepared this morning for an early march, and found the promise
of the rainbow fulfilled. The atmosphere was soft, serene, and fragrant. At sunrise a dense
fog rose from the valley, and hung upon the side of the mountain of San Gabriel, seeming to
encircle the peaks ; leaving the tops visible, several thousand feet above the plain.

RANCHO DB CHINA. — EL MONTE. — LOS ANGELES.

135

Our course was west-southwest upon the northern border of the elongated basin before men-
tioned. In size, importance, and direction, it conforms to the great mountain chain, by the
upheaval of which this depression was probably produced. It is watered by many streams ;
some of them said to be permanent, others owing their origin to rains and melting snows upon
the mountains. Over this wide extent of fertile valley are seen a few adobe houses, and occa-
sional grazing herds of horses and cattle. Upon our left was pointed out the superb "Kancho
de China," for which Colonel Fremont is said to have offered, in 1849 or 1850, two hundred
thousand dollars. Beyond, having travelled twenty-four miles, we encamped upon the bank of
the pretty stream of San Gabriel, opposite the town of El Monte.

On the way, two California gentlemen from San Jose met and accompanied us a short dis-
tance. They showed much interest in our operations, and expressed their opinion that the
Tejon was the best pass known, and that through it the railway should be constructed to Tulare
valley, and thence to San Francisco.

March 21 — Camp 152. — Having crossed the little river of San Gabriel, we entered the pre-
cincts of the town of Monte. Each spot of 160 acres, for miles in all directions, appeared to
be ditched around, hedged, and cultivated. Houses of canvass, brush, boards, or adobes, gave
shelter each to a family of settlers. Improvements were rapidly progressing. There were the
cheerful sounds of American voices, of the blacksmith's hammer, and the merry laugh of chil-
dren trudging to school. The whole scene appeared very odd, as if a New England village
had by some magic sprung up upon the Pacific. Possession of all the beautiful country we
have traversed since leaving Cajon Pass is claimed under old grants from Spain or Mexico. A
few months since, however, a party of emigrants conceived that there was a flaw in the old
Californian's title to this spot, and consequently they "squatted." There are supposed to be
five hundred families upon the location. Their estimate of the fertility of its soil and the excel-
lence of its climate is clearly exhibited, by their leaving rich placers to cultivate and improve
lands, with the risk of being finally driven from them by law.

Upon our course, south 60° west by compass, we passed to the left of the beautiful mission
of San Gabriel, and were near enough to see that it was a fine old ruin, surrounded by gardens
and vineyards, and with a rivulet flowing at the foot of a lawn. To save distance probably,
for smooth prairies seemed continuous upon the right, our road entered a ravine among ridges
of hills, passed over broken ground for a short distance, and then, from a slight eminence, we
looked upon the valley and city of Los Angeles. Descending, we crossed the river which
waters the valley, and entered the city. The stream, where we forded it, was about fifty yards
wide, and from two to two and a half feet deep. Above and below were numerous acequias ;
irrigating vineyards, orange and olive groves, peach orchards, gardens, and cornfields.
Along dismal-looking lanes were scattered piles of adobe houses, and the intervening spaces
were lined with mud walls and cactus hedges. But as we proceeded towards the plaza, the
sombre character of the place nearly disappeared before the march of American improvements.
There were respectable indications of business and activity. We noticed hotels, cafes, barbers'
signs, and a long array of flaunting shops. The buildings were formerly of one story, with a
broad piazza in front. But houses are being erected in more modern style, and many white
tents in the suburbs mark the spots where new comers design to build. The population is said
to be 3,000, and is rapidly increasing.

Camp was pitched upon the point of a ridge of hills which comes down to the left bank of the
river, overlooking the city. As we were now within the limits of the operations of the " Coast
Survey," and an almost unbroken plain is said to lead from Los Angeles to San Pedro, we
determined to disband the party, and proceed with all possible despatch to Washington ; there
to make known the results of our explorations. As there was no officer of the government in
the place to whom the United States' property in our possession could be turned over, it appeared
necessary to dispose of it, and immediate notice was given that a public sale would lake place
at the plaza, on the morrow. At night astronomical observations were taken for the determi-
nation of latitude and longitude.

36

DEPARTURE FROM LOS ANGELES. — PORT OF SAN PEDRO.

March 22 — Camp 152. — A dense fog hung over the valley at sunrise, hut it soon disappeared,
and we were favored with a bright and beautiful day, such as are said to render the climate of
Los Angeles the most delightful of California. At ten a. m. the auction commenced, and con-
tinued during the day. The sale being forced, the prices were confessedly low, although some
of our mules brought upwards of one hundred dollars each.

March 23 — Camp 153. — The sale was continued, and brought to a conclusion with all possible
despatch, for we learned that the steamer for San Francisco would arrive a day earlier than had
been expected, and it was necessary to proceed to San Pedro in the evening, in order to meet
it. At 4 p. m. we were told that the stage-coach could wait for us no longer ; so, having
placed the few things we had not time to attend to in charge of one of the assistants of the
party, who proposed to remain, we started for San Pedro. The odometer was attached to a
wheel, to measure the distance ; and with a prismatic compass and sketch-book, we hoped to
make a hasty reconnaissance of the country to be passed over. Rolling rapidly over the fine
prairie upon the right of the well-cultivated valley of the river, Los Angeles soon became dim
in the distance behind. A rain-storm, and, shortly after, darkness overtook us, and Ave splashed
through ponds of water produced by rain or brought by high tides from the ocean. The storm
drove furiously ; the road was lost in darkness ; the stage-coach went blindly along, now and
then dropping into a hole, and compelling us to alight to avoid an upset. At length two lights
gleamed from ranchos ahead, and the driver found out where he was. But the road was so
muddy and full of holes, that he said we must walk, first to the light on our right, and thence
to the other, where he would meet us. As we plunged half knee-deep into water and mud, the
light of heaven seemed actually extinct, and terra firma had to be felt for unseen. The driver
cautioned us, as we started, to look out for some deep pits that had been dug for wells in the
neighborhood, and to beware of the savage dogs that were kept at the ranchos. As for " look-
ing out," that was impossible, so we steered straight for the distant light, and, without serious
accident, reached it. We represented our condition to the master of the mansion, and asked
him to lend us a lantern. We then, after many narrow escapes from sloughs and ditches, waded
to the other house, took the coach, and without accident arrived about midnight at San Pedro,
where we met with most hospitable entertainment.

March 24. — The morning was bright and clear. At 8 a. m. the reading of the thermometer
was 68° ; barometer 30.030 inches. The custom-house, where these observations were made,
stands upon the bluff bank, from twenty to thirty feet above high-water mark. Spring tides are
said to rise nine or ten feet; neap tides from four to five. The port of San Pedro does not afford
complete protection for large vessels ; small ones, by crossing a bar with some twelve feet water
at high tide, enter a basin at the mouth of San Gabriel river, where they are entirely sheltered.
A city has there been laid out, and several houses built, in the expectation of rivalling the
pueblo of Los Angeles. At the playa, or principal landing, there is an indentation of the coast
by which shipping is said to be screened, except from southeast winds. These occur only in
winter, and then very seldom. Last winter only one arose, and a ship in port rode it out at
anchor. Captain Ord, who is conducting the coast survey at this point, informs me that a
breakwater of about a mile in length would make a safe and commodious harbor even for a fleet,
and wharves could easily be built out into deep water so as to furnish every advantage of a good
port.

Our reconnaissance yesterday evening from Los Angeles was interrupted by the darkness.
The distance measured by odometer was nearly twenty-five miles, and the course, approximately
obtained, was a few degrees west of south, to San Pedro. The country was almost a plain,
with a slight dip towards the coast. In the dark we seemed to cross a low ridge of hills ;
whether to avoid the overflowed grounds or to shorten the distance, we did not learn. Evidently
it could have been avoided.

Early this morning the steamer from San Diego arrived, and, excepting Mr. White and Mr.
Sherburne, who, delighted with the beauty of the country, preferred to remain in Los Angeles,
all the officers of the party took passage for San Francisco, en route to Washington.

PART II.

1 n

L

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE PROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, UNDER THE COMMAND OF LIEUT. A. W. WHIPPLE,
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853 AND 1854.

REPORT

THE TOPOGRAPHICAL FEATURES

AND

CHARACTER OE THE COUNTRY.

WASHINGTON, D. C.

1856.

CONTENTS.

GENERAL SKETCH OF THE ROUTE.

SECTION I.

From Mississippi river to Fort Smith 8

SECTION II.

From Fort Smith to the head of Pajarito creek, 702 miles 9

SECTION III.

From the head of Pajarito creek to the crossing of Rio Pecos, 44 miles _ 21

SECTION IV.

From Rio Pecos to Rio del Norte, 104 miles 23

SECTION V.

From Rio del Norte to Flax river, 237. 5 miles 26

SECTION VI.

From Flax river to Rio Colorado, 307. 7 miles - 29

SECTION VII.

From Rio Colorado to the Pacific. 39

GENERAL REMARKS UPON SPECIAL SUBJECTS.

Timber and fuel 46

Water T 47

Snow 48

Climate 48

Rough estimate of woodland, arable soil, &c 49

Mineralogical resources 60

The profile, with general remarks relating to the determination of heights by the barometer 54

Cost of construction, with estimate - 62

Recapitulation . . 76

Conclusion - ... 77

•

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pago.

View of Rio Colorado, from an island near the Mojave villages, looking north Frontispiece.

View of San Antonio Pass - 25

View of Aztec Pass 35

Diagrams representing abnormal oscillations of the barometric column —

General map from Fort Smith to Eio del Norte, upon a scale of one inch to 15 miles.
General map from Eio del Norte to the Pacific ocean, upon a scale of one inch to 15 miles.
Profile of a route for the Pacific railroad, from Fort Smith to Martinez, near San Francisco.

GENERAL SKETCH OF THE ROUTE.

Our operations have been confined to a belt of country bordering upon the parallel of
35° north latitude. The conformation of this region is such as to afford some peculiar
advantages for the construction of a national railroad. There are many water-courses passing
through it, and valleys extend in the desired direction over a great portion of the distance
between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean. This route would accommodate the eastern
trade which centres at Vicksburg, Memphis, and St. Louis ; and the railroads which are con-
templated westward from those cities, through the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Missouri,
might well converge and unite upon the Canadian.

From the eastern border of the Cboctaw territory to the head of Pajarito creek, about seven
hundred miles, our route is near the valley of the Canadian. Beyond, to Rio Pecos, (nearly
forty miles,) it passes a ridge which extends northwardly from the Llano Estacado and divides
the waters of the Mississippi from those of Rio del Norte. After crossing the Pecos, threading
Canon Blanco, and traversing the high mesa which breaks the continuity of the Rocky mountains,
this line unites with the valley of Rio Galisteo, and strikes the Rio del Norte near San Felipe ;
or, by a shorter route, from the lagunas near the head of Canon Blanco, proceeds by the way of
San Antonio Pass to the narrows of Rio Grande, at the Pueblo of Isleta.

Having crossed the Rio del Norte, and also the Puerco, we ascend by Rio San Jose and the
broad opening in which it takes its rise, to a low point upon the crest of the Sierra Madre ; the
range which divides the waters flowing towards the Gulf of Mexico from those emptying into
the Pacific. From this summit, the valley of Rio Puerco of the west leads to Colorado Chiquito,
(Flax river,) down which we proceed to the great bend towards the northwest. Then, by a
pass south of the San Francisco mountains, we enter a well-wooded region where springs feed
the head branches of Rio Verde. Continuing westward, we cross various small rivulets, and,
edging along the banks of Pueblo creek, ascend to Aztec Pass. Thence to the Mojave villages
two routes are noticed ; one, following the valleys of Williams' river* and Rio Colorado ; the
other, a shorter line in nearly a direct course westward from Aztec Pass, via White Cliff creek
and a gap which separates the Cerbat range from the Blue Ridge or Hamook-habi mountains,
to the Colorado above the canon of "The Needles," near Camp 132. Leaving Rio Colorado at
the Mojave villages, we pass the Paiute mountain, with steep but regular slopes, to Soda lake,
and a few miles beyond, upon the flowing waters of Mojave river, unite with the survey of
Lieutenant Williamson. As that officer is now understood to have been successful in his explo-
rations through one of the Tulare passes to San Francisco, we need but refer to his report for a
description of the remainder of this route to the Pacific.

The line will now be divided into sections, and the topographical features of the country
given somewhat in detail.

0 Heretofore called " Bill Williams' Fork." The Mojave or Cuckan name of this stream is " Hawil-kaui 3ok," meaning
third river.

SECTION I.

From the Mississippi River to Fort Smith.

The legislature of Arkansas having already taken the initiative with regard to the construc-
tion of a railway through the State, from the Mississippi river to Fort Smith, no special exami-
nations were required of us within those limits. It may, however, he remarked that, from the
general nature of the country and the vicinity of navigahle rivers, the grades would necessarily
be light, and materials for the construction of a road easily obtained.

The height of Little Eock was found by observations to be 351 feet above the level of the sea.
Napoleon is 142 feet above tide-water, and Memphis, by estimate, 54 feet higher, making 196
feet. This wo'uld allow the difference of level between Memphis and Little Kock to be 155 feet;
and the distance being about 155 miles, the mean ascent would be one foot per mile. From
information tbat seems reliable, it appears that, from the point opposite Memphis to the river
St. Francis, thirty-nine miles, there is an extensive marsh subject to overflow, rendering an
embankment necessary for the road that crosses it. To avoid this, although probably not a
very serious obstacle, Helena has been suggested as the terminus of the proposed railway from
Fort Smith to the Mississippi. From the St. Francis to Little Eock, 116 miles, the country
is said to be undulating, with woodlands and prairies favorable for the location of a railway.

Between Little Eock and F ort Smith there are two ranges of mountains, called the La Fourche
and Petit Jean. They rise abruptly from the river, with peaks 1,000 feet high, and are said to
extend southwest some thirty miles. It is believed that the country beyond is favorable for a
railroad, which would thus avoid a large bend of the river valley.

The banks of the Arkansas are covered with excellent timber — ash, elm, black walnut, pecan,
and various kinds of oaks. Above Little Eock the lower carboniferous formation commences,
soon passing into coal measures. Coal outcrops at various points in the neighborhood of the
river ; it is bituminous, of good quality, and easily obtained. Considerable use is made of it
for fuel, and as population increases, and the superabundance of wood is diminished, the value
of this source of wealth will be more highly appreciated. The State abounds in mineral wealth.
Its stores of iron are believed to be inexhaustible. Lead, copper, and silver are said to be found
in considerable quantities. Quarries of roofing slate, near the river, furnish a large supply of
that material for the markets of St. Louis and Cincinnati.

Fort Smith is situated upon the right bank of the Arkansas river, just below the junction of
the Poteau. The military post is near the fork, and within the Choctaw territory. The town,
or city, commences a few hundred yards below, and is within the limits of the State. The
position is upon a ridge of dark micaceous sandstone, rising about sixty feet above the river.
The back country is composed of wooded hills and high prairies. Some thirty or forty miles
distant, south, are seen the summits of Sugar-Loaf and Poteau mountains, two thousand feet
above the river.

Numerous barometric observations at Fort Smith made its altitude four hundred and sixty-
eight feet above the sea. Supposing the distance from Little Eock to be one hundred and sixty
miles by laud, and the elevation, as observed., one hundred and seventeen feet, the mean grade
would be less than a foot per mile.

SECTION II.

From Fori Smith to the head of Pajarito Creek, seven hundred and two miles.

The Canadian river and the hranch above mentioned may be considered as occupying the
same general valley, the course of which is nearly west for the distance specified.

The mean inclination of the Canadian is nine feet per mile, from the junction of Tucumcari
creek to its entrance to the Arkansas, affording light grades, without expensive excavations or
embankments. Few large bridges would be required, because most of the tributaries sink as
they approach the great valley. The trail upon which our profile was made, in order to avoid
some of the principal bends of the river, is generally favorable for the location of a railway.
Some of the valleys traversed, particularly those of Walnut creek, Deer creek, and the affluents to
the False Washita, contain better timber than is found upon the banks of the Canadian, in the
same meridians. There is, upon this section, plenty of sandstone, quicklime, and gypsum.
Upon the eastern part, extensive beds of coal and large forests of trees afford fuel and timber in
abundance. The Cross Timbers extend to the meridian of 99° 11' west from Greenwich ; and
the wooded branches of the False Washita would afford materials for bridges and railroad-ties
fifty or sixty miles beyond. Thence, to the end of the section, from three and a half to four
degrees further west, good timber is scarce ; yefc large cotton- wood trees grow in the valleys,
and the hill-slopes are covered with thick groves of cedars which afford excellent fuel.
Lieutenant Abert reports the existence of "an abundance of timber" a short distance above
the mouth of Tucumcari creek. Hence, the supply for the construction of a road in this vicinity
might be obtained from that region, or from the Cross Timbers. Upon this section, the labor of
graduation could not much exceed that required in the valley of the Ohio. The expense of
bridging will be small. In cutting off the bends of streams, our trail crossed a few barren
spots ; but the valleys throughout this section may be cultivated. The eastern portion is
remarkably fertile. Throughout the extent of the Canadian valley, the precipitation o
moisture is evidently greater than occurs elsewhere, north or south, within the arid region
that lies east of the Eocky mountains. Springs and streams are numerous, and common
wells, or short aqueducts, would furnish sufficient water at those points where railroad stations
would be required.

From a general view of" this section, we will pass to the consideration of some of its topo-
graphical details, taken from the field-notes and journals of the expedition.

From station 1, near the flag-staff at Fort Smith, to the ferry of the Poteau, the distance
southwest is nine hundred yards, and the descent fifty-two feet. The width of the stream at
that point is two hundred and thirty-five feet. The water is somewhat turbid and apparently
deep, being backed up from the Arkansas with which it unites a few hundred yards below.
The right bank of the Poteau is formed by a nearly precipitous ledge of slaty rock, from twenty-
five to thirty feet high. The left bank is generally about eight feet above the water's edge, but;
during freshets is overflown. Better points for bridging occur above the ferry. That considered
the most favorable is at the ford, where the bottom is of rock, and bluff-banks at nearly equal
heights line both sides. A span from thirty to fifty feet is believed to be sufficient ; and building
materials may be found in the vicinity.

From the ferry, before noticed, the road crosses a low bottom land, extending from the Ar-
kansas on the right to the Poteau on the left. This is covered with forest trees of various
kinds, and a thick undergrowth. Eight miles distant from Fort Smith there is a Choctaw iet-
2 n

10

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

tlement with cultivated fields. A mile or two beyond, the road ascends to a ridge about sixty
feet above the river. Here is a farm-house, near which was formed our Camp 1. It is nearly
intermediate between the Poteau and the Arkansas. The slopes are covered with oak timber,
suitable for railroad ties. The soil is good for tillage, and both the smooth prairies and the
ravines afford pasture. There is no need for the railroad line to ascend this ridge. Either base
of it could be followed, but that by the Poteau is preferred.

From Camp 1 to Scullyville, the road continues upon the high lands, crossing a prairie and
several ravines with descents and ascents averaging about fifty feet. The country is well tim-
bered with white-oak, post-oak, and blackjack. Several farm-houses and cultivated fields were
passed. The route proposed for the railroad follows the course of the Poteau upon the left.

From Scullyville the general character of the country near the road is unchanged to Camp *l ;
consisting of isolated prairies and wooded hills, with small creeks and rills among the ravines.
A few miles south of the road is found a more level country of prairie character, with a drainage
to the Poteau. Upon this is the railroad line, proceeding from a point south of Scullyville to a
densely timbered valley between Piney Ridge and the Sans Bois mountains. Near the western
part of this valley we reach the head-waters of a branch of the Poteau, cross an almost inap-
preciable summit, and find other prairies leading to Sans Bois river. This river is seventy feet
wide, and would require a bridge with a span of seventy-five feet. The distance from Fort
Smith is fifty-four miles ; the grades quite easy, the maximum being forty feet per mile, with
little labor for excavation or embankment. There are few ravines which would require
bridging. The route now follows the valley, ascending the right bank of the Sans Bois river
for a distance of sixteen miles, then crossing the stream, which is seventy feet wide, and keeping
near the left bank to its head-waters. From that point a low divide is passed, and we reach La
Honda, which a short distance below empties into Graines's creek.

In the vicinity of Sans Bois creek there are forests of great extent, abounding in oak, hickory,
and pecan timber. Upon the hills, sandstone is found suitable for the purposes of construction.
The wide bottom-lands, through which numerous tributaries of the South Fork of the Canadian
have worn deep channels, possess a rich alluvium, covered with timber of remarkable size and
beauty. In this vicinity there are Chickasaw settlements, with numerous cultivated fields.

Gaines's creek is a clear stream twenty feet wide, with banks in some places twenty feet in
height. For a bridge, a span of fifty feet would be required. Thence, the country is undulating
for fourteen miles to Coal creek. This stream, which is ninety-five feet wide at the crossing, is
another of the tributaries of the South Fork. Its name is derived from the great quantity of
coal found in the vicinity. In several places the coal-bearing strata crop out above the surface.
They appear also upon Sans Bois creek and at other points between Fort Smith and this place.
Ordinary wells in this region, from forty to fifty feet deep, frequently discover beds of coal two
to three feet thick. Besides bituminous coal, sufficient for the uses of a railway and for exporta-
tion, this formation contains sandstones and limestones excellent for the construction of bridges
and viaducts.

The valley of Coal creek, although intersected by several ravines and spurs of rocky hills,
may be followed to the head of one of its branches near a low divide, south of the Shawnee
hills, which separates it from Boggy river. This range of hills is rough and steep, even for
the wagon road which crosses it ; but as it trends westwardly, it may be turned by passing the
dividing ridge between Coal creek and the Boggy, about eight miles south of Shawnee village.
The ascent from Coal creek to the summit is by a broad prairie ; 'thence to Camp IT there is a
forest, intersected by narrow ravines and intervening hills across which easy passages are
found. The grades are from twenty to thirty feet per mile.

Upon entering the wide and nearly level basin, fertilized by numerous small tributaries of
Boggy river, the woods become less dense, and soon give place to open prairies of considerable
extent. Upon the north is a ridge of wooded hills, extending from the Canadian towards the
southwest, so as to injclude Delaware Mount. There are several passes through this range, two

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

11

of which open to an extensive prairie, nearly level, leading to Beaverstown. A route is indicated
also west-southwest, about eight miles, to the valley of Washita river ; which, as laid down from
Captain Marcy's survey, would afford a good location to its source near the Canadian. The
line which is developed upon the profile keeps near the road, passing Beaverstown, and crossing
the almost inappreciable crest of the divide at Camp 23. Beyond, it is easy to pass into the
valley of the Washita, or follow in the vicinity of our trail, threading the fertile basins watered
by Walnut and Deer creeks, edging the forest of Cross Timbers to Kock Mary, and thence crossing
a bleak prairie to Gypsum creek, near its confluence with the Washita.

Delaware ridge is the boundary between the carboniferous group and the new red sandstone,
or Trias ; and the topographical features east and west are also different. Thence to Camp 20,
the country is wooded and somewhat hilly, being intersected by Topofki creek and other
affluents of the Canadian. The streams are small, with gravelly beds — the largest thirty feet in
width. The hills passed are from fifty to seventy-five feet in height above their base ; they
gradually diminish and disappear in the direction towards the Canadian. From Camp 20 to
Beaverstown, we crossed a portion of the woodless plain referred to. It is, however, intersected
by several ravines, with a border of trees variegating the landscape. Beyond, the country acquires
in a great degree the distinctive characters of the western prairie. The surface is nearly level,
and trees scarce. Opposite Camp 22, the Canadian makes a large bend towards the north, and
our trail, instead of following it, kept near the summit of the prairie slopes, which separates the
waters of the Canadian from the tributaries of Bed river. At Camp 23, near the eastern edge of
the forest of Cross Timbers, there is an Indian trail leading southwest, along the borders of a
small creek, to the Washita river. This is a favorable entrance to the valley of that stream,
which would probably afford a favorable location for a railroad to its source. To avoid pene-
trating the dense growth of post-oak and blackjack, of which this forest consists, the wagon
road skirted the northern edge of it, crossing numerous flowing streams tributary to Walnut
creek. The soil of their valleys is a rich loam, producing rank grass, and large oak and hickory
trees. At the head of Walnut creek, we again found ourselves upon a broad prairie, where
gypsum appeared upon the surface. The Cross Timbers here recede several miles towards the
south. The grassy plains, somewhat cut up by ravines, extend to the well-wooded valley of
Deer creek. This is a clear and rapid stream, flowing to the Canadian. Where forded, it was
two and a half feet deep and six feet wide. Its waters irrigate a considerable extent of country,
admirably adapted to agriculture. Leaving Deer creek, we again crossed a series of plains
intersected by small arroyos ; the Cross Timbers being visible upon our left until we reached
" Rock Mary," one of the so-called natural mounds, which are from seventy-five to one hundred
feet in height. These are horizontally stratified, and appear to be isolated remnants of the
mesa formation which once covered this region. Beyond, the surface is level, sandy, and covered
with extensive beds of gypsum of the best quality. For about ten miles, no streams or springs
were passed. The aspect of the country is barren and desolate. It could be avoided by de-
scending from Camp 28 into the valley of the Canadian, or by following the Washita, as pro-
posed, from Camp 23. Near Camp 30, we crossed Gypsum creek, an affluent to the Washita,
flowing south through bluff banks cut from an alluvial valley. It would require a bridge about
150 feet in length. The stream is well wooded with oaks and elms, excellent for timber ; the
current is rapid ; the water is slightly brackish, but deep, containing an abundance of fishes.

At short distances beyond, are Bear creek and Elm creek, both covered with timber, the
latter twelve feet wide and three and a half feet deep. Then appears the main valley of the
Washita, a beautiful stream, traceable for a long distance, from the west-northwest towards the
east-southeast, by the belt of timber which borders it. The valley is wide and fertile. It receives
numerous tributaries from the north, divided by banks of red clay and gravel. As far ;is visi-
ble, it affords a good location for a railway. Probably it might be followed to its junction with
Bed river, and thence, via Shreveport, communication would be established with all the southern
commercial cities.

12

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

The ridge which divides the waters of the Canadian from those of the Washita, maintains a
nearly uniform height throughout its whole extent; hut it is much contracted in width near the
head branches of the latter stream. The arroyos, therefore, which lead from it are washed into
gullies, and have steep declivities. For a railroad, it might he preferable to ascend in a northwest
course along the southern slope of this ridge, cross the elevated mesa south of the Antelope hills,
and enter the Canadian valley at G-rape creek. Our trail followed a northward course towards
the Canadian, crossing various tributaries of the Washita. Comet creek flows in a canon, with
banks about thirty feet high, requiring, near its mouth, a heavy embankment and a bridge
from fifty to one hundred feet in length. Thence to Camp 33, the appearance of the country
remains nearly the same as has been described ; a succession of spurs and intervening rivulets,
which unite a short distance below, in the valley of the Washita. Marcou creek, Oak creek,
Buffalo creek, and some others, are flowing rivulets, with banks covered with timber, which
would suffice for the necessary bridges. The numerous valleys are adapted to agriculture, and
the highlands to grazing. Buffalo-grass appears near the head- waters of the Washita. Other
prairie grasses are abundant eastward.

The first of the engineering difficulties encountered upon this route is in crossing the narrow
ridge which divides the head-waters of the Washita from the Canadian. From the summit,
gullies have been washed from the red clay banks so as to render considerable excavation and
embankment necessary for a side location upon the ridge. In order to avoid the gullies, two
modes are proposed. The first — following the main valley of the Washita to its head, edging
along the southern slopes of the mesa to its top, near the Antelope hills, and then crossing into
Grape creek — has already been referred to ; the other, is to ascend a branch of the Washita, and
cut through the crest to a corresponding ravine which leads to the Canadian.* The distance is
short, but the excavation would be considerable. According to the profile a maximum grade of
*75. 6 feet per mile would be required for a short distance.

The following brief extracts from the field-notes will give more in detail the character of this
dividing ridge, and other difficult portions of the route immediately on the line of survey.

The creek at Camp 33 is well timbered with oak and some cotton-wood. From the camp back
to where the road crosses the river is a valley, the general width of which is about half a mile.
The stream is very crooked. There is a low range of hills to the left. From station 19f the
ground appears more favorable upon the left of the trail, until, passing Camp 33, we reach
station 3. Grade, from station 3 to station 12, not more than fifty feet per mile. Station 7
is upon the table-land, and the ascent to it, from Camp 33, is gradual. Two creeks, branches
of Buffalo creek, pass through stations 11 and 12, and join below. Both are dry, but contain
large alamos and oaks. Station 15 is on the top of a ridge. The hill is considerably cut up
into gullies ; the soil is composed of red clay and sand ; good water is found at Alamo spring.
Beyond, the surface is prairie ; and to station 23 there are few obstructions. Between station
23 and Camp 34 is the dividing ridge which separates the waters of the Canadian from those of
the Washita. It can be passed by running from station 22 or station 23, slightly to the right
of station 27, which is upon the summit; and thence entering a ravine which leads to the
Canadian, about two miles distant. To obtain a grade of sixty feet per mile, a cutting of fifty
feet would be required.

Near station 26 there are a few dwarf oaks. Captain Marcy's trail, which, avoiding the valley
of the Washita, kept the dividing ridge near the Canadian, passes through station 27 and to the

° From this point of the Canadian, it is helieved that a railroad might easily be constructed, in nearly a direct line,
to Springfield, Missouri, there to unite with the railroad from St. Louis. The gypsum formation extends for some distance
north of the Canadian, and produces, probably, a country not unlike that traversed upon the south. Beyond tjjis the
route would cross the new red sandstone and carboniferous formations, developing mines in the coal basin. The most
important items of expense on this location, would doubtless be for bridging the Arkansas and Canadian rivers ; and, in
that respect, the line under consideration from Fort Smith is more advantageous.

f The stations referred to are plotted on the detailed sheets, but the general maps are upon too small a scale to allow
them to be represented.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

13

left of station 29. Station 32 is in a wooded ravine tributary to the Canadian. Near by is
Camp 34, upon Epsom spring, tbe water of which is brackish.

From Camp 34 to station 4, several ravines are crossed, with high banks, covered with
cotton- wood trees. Station 5 is a quarter of a mile from the Canadian. Station 8, at the foot
of the hills, is in the valley of the river. Tbe stream here is shallow, flowing over a wide
surface of deep-red sand and clay. The bottom-lands are about half a mile wide, and have
the appearance of having been overflowed ; containing bushes and weeds, but little grass or
timber.

From Camp 34 the line should keep to the left of the trail, edging along the ridge to the
valley at station 8. For six miles the broad valley of the Canadian follows a westerly
course. The gravelly ridge, which bounds it, is then ascended to avoid a northerly bend
produced by the Antelope hills that deflect the river from its direct course. Station 16 is
upon the top of the table-land. Station 17 is on a stream covered with cotton-wood timber,
and containing good water flowing to the Canadian. On account of its steep banks it is called
Canon creek. Camp 35 is upon tbe bordering prairie, which extends nearly to the river, a
distance of about a mile and a half, where the valley is a quarter of a mile wide. The trail
passing between the Antelope hills, to cut off a bend of the river valley, is intersected by
several ravines with steep banks. Sandy creek, 150 feet wide, is the largest. Indian creek
is near tbe Antelope hills. Grape creek is remarkable for the number of vines that grow
upon its banks. Camp 36 is in the Canadian valley, at the mouth of a dry arroyo. The
intermediate country is principally prairie, much elevated at tbe Antelope hills, and, in
some places, sandy. By the trail, the surface of the ground, from Camp 35 to station 3, has
a rapid ascending grade, being 284 feet in two and three quarter miles, or 103 feet to the
mile. From station 3 to station 9 the grades are easy. From 9 to 10, one mile, the difference
of elevation is 135 feet, in consequence of station 10 having been taken in a ravine which might
be avoided by an embankment or bridge. Thence to station 16, the grade is light. From 16
to 1*7, a quarter of a mile, the difference of elevation is 63 feet. This could be avoided by
keeping to the left of the ridge between stations 16 and 21. From station 17 to the Canadian
the distance is one and a half miles ; from station 21, one mile ; and between Camps 35 and 36,
the greatest estimated width of the table-land, which slopes down towards the river, is two and
a half miles. The distance by the valley will not much exceed that by the trail, and the for-
mer would be adopted as the line of location, so as to avoid the heavy work and steep grades
above referred to.

From Camp 36, to avoid the soft alluvial soil of the valley, the wagon-road ascends about 150
feet, to the gravelly prairie that bounds the Canadian river. The plain is considerably cut up
by water-courses, many of them dry. The highest part crossed is about a mile beyond station
1 ; and from that point there is a slope to a ravine, 200 yards wide, containing good water.
Opposite station 2, upon the left bank of the Canadian, there is a ridge of sand-hills, with trees
at the foot. A rivulet of clear water crosses the trail near station 7. At station 9 there is a
dry arroyo, with banks covered with cotton-wood. Beyond station 10 the valley of the Cana-
dian is well wooded. The trail, after passing several sandy beds of streams, crosses a creek
with running water, between stations 27 and 28. Camp 37 is on a rivulet emptying into the
Canadian. It contains good water, with cotton-wood upon its banks. From Camp 36 to this
place the trail is about a mile south of the Canadian river. For a railroad, the valley would bo
followed at small expense, and with a uniform grade.

Leaving Camp 37, the trail enters the Canadian valley near station 1, where the alluvium
upon the right bank of the river is about one mile in width. It is covered with timber. Upon
the opposite side the width is half & mile. Beyond, the valley increases in width. Groves of
cotton-wood occur, sometimes upon the right bank of the river, sometimes upon the left. Mounds
15 feet in height, and numerous ravines, appear in the vicinity of station 8. Between stations
10 and 11 is Dry river, with a gravelly bed 200 yards wide one mile from its junction with the

14

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

Canadian. Beyond are sand-hills, thinly covered with grass. At station 12 the sand ends,
and clay appears. From station 13 to station 20 the trail keeps the edge of the valley, from
half a mile to a mile distant from the river. Upon the opposite hank are cotton-wood groves.
Passing two dry arroyos with wide sandy heds we reach Camp 38, which is within the wide
delta formed by the junction of Wine creek with the Canadian valley. Grape-vines grow in
profusion at this place, covering many acres, and loaded with fruit.

Along the river, a short distance beyond Camp 38, are Chickasaw plum, hackberry, and
willow trees. Opposite station 2 no timber exists upon either side of the river. Beyond station
3 there is a sparse growth of cotton-wood. From station 8 to station 9 are found ash, cotton-
wood, and hackberry. Beyond station 11 the valley opens to the width of two and one-eighth
miles. Small, isolated hills appear near station 12, with cotton-wood and willows in the
valley. These hills seem to bear some relation to a long range of natural mounds which extend
towards the south. There are sand-hills in the valley opposite station 19, and at station 20 is
a cotton-wood grove, near the mouth of a rivulet. Between stations 21 and 22 is Valley river,
a fine stream of water, with fertile banks about three-quarters of a mile wide. Camp 39 is situ-
ated near its junction with the Canadian, overlooking a pleasantly diversified region of wood-
land and meadow.

Above Camp 39 a range of small sand-hills intersects the south side of the valley. For the
purpose of avoiding it the trail crossed the stream at the mouth of Valley river. The Canadian
is there one-third of a mile wide, and three feet deep in the largest channels, which are sepa-
rated by sand-bars. The northern bank is sandy, and the valley wide. At station 15 the
stream was recrossed. Here the bed of red clay and sand measured 840 yards in width. The
flowing stream was 150 yards wide, and from one to two and a half feet deep. Station 16 is on
the southern bank of the river, and from Camp 39 to this point there is no visible obstruction to
the formation of a road upon either side of the valley. The naked sand-hills referred to are
small, and do not appear to be continuous to the river. To avoid a miry slue, a ridge of similar
sand-hills was crossed beyond station 17. Thence to Camp 40 the valley continues wide and
somewhat sandy, with few trees upon the banks of the stream.

About half a mile beyond Camp 40 is a rivulet called Spring creek, three feet wide, its banks
lined with cotton-wood trees. The valley of the Canadian continues to average from a mile to
a mile and a half in width, thinly covered with trees. Between stations 3 and 4 there is a valley,
bordered with cotton-wood trees. Near station 5 the prairie that bounds the Canadian termi-
nates in a bluff edge 150 feet high. Some detached fragments of it form isolated hills of sand
and gravel. At the foot of the hill, near station 6, there is a spring. Another is found in the
Canadian valley between stations 6 and 7. A stream of clear water called Bluff creek flows
past station 11 to the Canadian. Its bed is 30 yards wide, and the banks sandy. Beyond, the
width of the valley averages about half a mile upon either side of the Canadian. Near station
26 the bluffs of the right bank approach to within 800 or 900 feet of the river, while upon the
opposite side the valley spreads out to the width of two miles. Between stations 27 and 30 the
valley is bounded upon the south by a nearly perpendicular limestone bluff. Beyond, the
slopes of the prairie become gentle. From station 30 to 32, upon the south side of the valley,
there are gravelly knolls. From station 32 to 34 a spur of hills comes down to the river. It is
of soft sandstone and gravel. The trail crosses by threading two ravines, which head near the
summit. The width of the ridge is 400 yards, and the height of it 56 feet. This is the only
point yet seen in the Canadian valley where deep cutting may be required. Camp 41 is in the
bottom-land near the western side of the spur. The fall of the river from this place to Camp
34 is seven feet per mile.

Beyond Camp 41 the wide river valley is bounded by a bluff composed of rock, sand, and
gravel. Opposite station 2 there is a ravine between the hills. It is clothed with trees and a
rank growth of weeds, but shows no worn channel for the water which it drains from the
prairie during wet weather. On the north side of the river the prairie slopes gradually down

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

15

to the valley, until opposite station 1. There it is edged by a perpendicular bluff, composed
of red marl, limestone, and sandstone, approaching within 150 yards of the river. On the
right hank the alluvial bottom-land continues a quarter of a mile wide. Between stations 5 and
6 flows Mole creek, a rivulet six feet wide and one foot deep. At the foot of the bluff near
station 8, is found red sand strongly impregnated with common salt. There are pools of salt
water in the vicinity. At station 10, to avoid a canon at the Agate bluffs, the trail leaves the
valley of the Canadian, enters a wide ravine with irregular banks, ascends near to its head,
and at station 11 rises to the high, rolling prairie, which slopes gently from the Llano Es-
tacado. Station 14 is upon the high table-land, which is covered with short grass. The soil
is a mixture of sand, clay, and a little gravel. Between stations 19 and 20 is a water-course
with gently sloping banks. Another is crossed between stations 25 and 26, near Camp 42. It
is sixty yards wide, containing pools of water and bound by rugged banks.

Should it prove necessary for the railroad to emerge from the Canadian valley at station 10,
and ascend, by the sides of the ravine, to the high prairie which the trail passed over, for the
first five miles a grade varying from 92 to 70 feet per mile would be required. The general
slope of the plain is about 18 feet per mile ; but it is considerably cut up by ravines, some of them
having steep banks which would render heavy cutting and filling necessary in order to produce
moderate grades. According to the profile the maximum grade would be 60 feet per mile.

From Camp 42 the trail continues upon the same undulating prairie at a distance varying
from three to six miles from the Canadian, which there flows in the canon formed by the Agate
Bluffs described by Lieutenant Abert. Having traversed the table-land for a distance of about
25 miles, we descend with a grade of 60 feet per mile to the border of a beautiful stream called
Shady creek. The broad valley through which it flows to the Canadian is covered with a forest
of timber, consisting of cotton-wood, white oak, and hickory. To the left of the camp there
is a small hill composed of dolomite, and beyond is a bluff of red sandstone. The grade
between Camps 42 and 43 would not exceed 60 feet per mile. At station 17 there is a bed of
an arroyo 100 yards wide, with steep banks, across which a bridge or embankment would be
necessary. Shady creek would require a bridge, materials for which, both of wood and stone,
can be found in the vicinity. The proposed railroad line follows this stream to its mouth, and
thence ascends the valley of the Canadian to the junction of Tucumcari creek. For a descrip-
tion of the portions of the Canadian river not fully explored by us, reference is made to the
published reports of Major Long and Lieutenants Abert and Peck.

From Shady creek our own trail passed over a portion of the Llano Estacado, and crossed
Tucumcari creek about 30 miles above its junction with the Canadian. The following notes
relate to this line :

From Camp 43 to station 1, which is 75 yards distant from Shady creek, the ascent is steep.
Station 2 is one mile south of the stream. There is but little timber opposite this place.
Between stations 4 and 5 the valley is contracted to one-fourth of a mile in width. At station
5 the steep rocky bill-sides approach to within 60 yards of the trail. Beyond we pass into a
ravine, which soon becomes a canon, 200 yards wide, terminating at a ridge of sand and gravel,
which separates it from Bed Bank creek. This stream is crossed between stations 11 and 12.
It is sparsely fringed with cotton-wood, and contains large pools of water. Crossing other
prairie slopes we reach station 16, upon the bank of Amarillo creek, which contains plenty of
water, but no wood. Its bed is 30 yards wide. The width of the valley is 400 yards. Beyond,
the trail traverses the prairie and crosses two dry ravines. Camp 44 is upon the bank of a
stream, where water is abundant.

Station 1, beyond Camp 44, is in a ravine 300 yards wide. Station 2 is near the commence-
ment of a broad mesa. Two arroyos are crossed between stations 7 and 9; the latter having
rocky sides covered with small cedar trees. Between stations 9 and 10 is a ravine, deep, broad,
and rocky. To the right of station 11 is a rocky bluff. Between 13 and 14 there are large pools
of water. The bluffs of the Llano, covered with cedars, are one-third of a mile to the left of

16

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

station 16. The country sloping from them is prairie. Station 17 is in a ravine with a few
cotton-wood trees. At station 18, the slopes are covered with mezquite bushes. Beneath the
Llano bluffs, near Camp 45, there is a pleasant valley abounding in grapes and sprinkled with
cotton-wood trees. It is watered by several springs and a small stream called Rincon de la Crux.

The ravine in which Camp 45 is situated extends far back among the hills, breaking the
continuity of the precipitous cliffs, and affording facilities for an ascent to the top of the Llano.
Upon the edge of it there is a spur of uniform acclivity, which the trail ascends. Station 4 is
upon the summit, which, towards the south, appears smooth, level, and of unlimited extent.
It is covered with short buffalo-grass, but contains neither shrub nor tree to vary the landscape.
Eight miles beyond, the plain is cut by a deep ravine, in which a small stream, called Encamp-
ment creek, flows towards the Canadian. It branches, where we crossed it to obtain water,
and might have been headed by a slight detour towards the south. Rising to the plain, we
continued upon the northerly tongue of the Llano, about eighteen miles, to its western edge,
which affords an extensive view. At the foot lies Rocky Dell creek, a rapid .brook flowing to
the Canadian. From fifty to sixty miles distant, towards the west, are seen the Tucumcari
hills. The intermediate country appears like a vast basin, bounded upon the south by escarped
bluffs of the Llano Estacado. Near the base of the slopes are dense groves of cedar and pinon,
and lines of small cotton-wood mark the courses of many little valleys and streams which tra-
verse this region.

Rocky Dell creek heads in a re-entering angle of the Llano bluffs, near the trail, and affords
a way for a descent along its banks to Camp 46. The maximum grade, according to the topo-
graphical sketches, need not exceed sixty feet per mile.

Beyond Camp 46, the country is prairie, with gentle slopes, traversed by small rivulets which
take their rise in springs beneath the Llano cliffs. Between stations 4 and 5 the trail crosses
a ravine containing water, but destitute of trees. The foot of the Llano is two miles distant,
and there cedars and piiions are abundant. Emigrant creek is crossed between stations 9 and
10. Station 10 is upon the side of a dry ravine, which is lined with small cotton-wood trees.
The remainder of this day's march was upon a plain, a large portion of which possesses a loose
friable soil, which, with sufficient water, would doubtless be fertile. It is almost destitute of
trees. Camp 47 is near a ravine, which contains large pools of water and excellent grass. Be-
tween stations 19 and 20, a grade of fifty-five feet per mile would be required ; elsewhere the
grades would be easy.

The ground rises gently between Camp 47 and station 2. Between stations 2 and 3 is the
crossing of Halt creek, eight feet wide and three deep. It has no trees upon its banks. Opposite
stations 4 and 5, the bluffs of the Llano are four miles distant. Further westward, a salient
point of it is within a mile and a half of station 12. There, as elsewhere, the foot of it is cov-
ered with cedars, excellent for fuel. The whole route to Camp 48 is but slightly undulating,
and much of the soil appears favorable for tillage. Several arroyos, containing pools of water,
were passed.

Between Camp 48 and station 1 there is a muddy creek. Its banks are destitute of trees.
Station 2 is in the valley of Fossil creek, or a branch of it, which contains a sluggish stream of
water, bordered by a few cotton-wood trees. Between stations 5 and 6 is a larger rivulet of
flowing water, of a clay color ; its width is 150 yards. Upon the right of the trail, towards the
Canadian, its valley is well supplied with cotton-wood timber. There are trees, also, a mile
distant upon the left. Its valley is 300 yards wide. Station 6 is on the bank of this stream,
four feet above the water. Station 11 is upon a branch of Tucumcari creek. Near this stream,
the trail continues to Camp 49. There is much timber in its valley towards the Canadian. To
the left of the trail there are few trees, except at the base of the Llano bluffs. From station 12,
the slopes to the river are gentle. The average width of this branch of Tucumcari valley is
about half a mile. From station 13 to station 17, the trail is within a few hundred yards of
the water ; thence to Camp 49, it follows near the valley of Tucumcari creek. In the construe-

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. 17

tion of a road over this day's march, light grades could he ohtained. The main item of expense
would he for bridges and culverts, in crossing the streams.

Leaving Camp 49, we ascend a branch of the valley of Tucumcari creek, and find detached
portions of the Llano one-fourth of a mile to the north of station 2. The bluffs upon both sides
approach the trail near station 4, leaving a valley between about two miles wide. A few hun-
dred yards to the left of the road, between stations 4 and 5, is an isolated hill, nearly conical,
called Pyramid mountain. Its horizontal stratification shows it to be a remnant of the Llano.
A sketch of it was taken, and a description will be found in the geological report. Between
stations 5 and 6, the width of the valley is increased to several miles. At station 6 there is a
large pool of water. To the left, the hills are one and a half miles distant ; and the width of
the valley beyond, to Camp 50, on Laguna Colorada, varies from one to three and a half miles.
Between stations 14 and 15, the ground is marshy and covered with bushes ; below, there is a
stream. A rugged hill, of the red sandstone formation, bounds Laguna Colorada upon the north.

Camp 50 lies in the basin of Laguna Colorada, near large pools of shallow water. Between
stations 2 and 3 there is a thick grove of cedars ; and the valley opens to four and a half miles
in width. Near station 7, the trail crosses a rocky hill, which is sprinkled with pine trees.
Station 10 is in a valley one-fourth of a mile wide — a branch of Pajarito creek. Opposite station
13, the hill-slopes contain timber of cedar and pine. There is a large pool of water at station 14.
The range of bluffs continue upon the left of the trail, but recede from the right, making room
for the tributaries of Pajarito creek. Between stations 17 and 18 is a ravine, containing pools
of water. At station 18, the total width of valley is five miles. The slopes are gentle ; the
bottoms are covered with luxuriant grass. Camp 51 is upon one of the numerous branches of
this creek. Water is plenty in springs and pools, but is slightly brackish. Large cedar trees
are abundant upon the hills, about a mile distant.

From the notes of the survey, it is evident that, from Fort Smith to this place, little difficulty
would be experienced in constructing a railroad in the immediate vicinity of our trail. The
reconnoissances, however, covered a larger extent of country ; and, taken in connexion with
the reports of others, have led to some deviations from that line. The section delineated by the
profile avoids the canon of the Agate bluffs, by passing the table-land south ; re-enters the
Canadian valley at the mouth of Shady creek ; ascends its banks to the Spanish road, near the
mouth of Tucumcari creek ; and thence threads the wide valleys that receive the waters of
Laguna Colorada, Cuerbito, and Pajarito creeks. This route enables us to avoid the ascent to
the Llano Estacado at Eincon de la Cruz, and to maintain more nearly the uniform grade of
the valley. The trace marked out, near Lieutenant Abert's trail, crosses to the north side of
the Canadian valley ; it is quite probable, however, that the right bank of the river would
afford an equally good location for a road, and thus enable us to avoid the construction of
expensive bridges.

NOTE.

Extracts from the report of Lieutenant James W. Abert, Corps of Topographical Engineers, com-
mencing August 29th, about fifty-six miles northwest from the junction of Tucumcari creek with
the Canadian.

August 29. — We encamped in a beautiful valley which afforded an abundance of grass. In the
afternoon Lieutenant Peck and I mounted our horses and started off to make an examination of
the canon. We were caught on a tongue of land which separates the forks of a tributary canon,
and at length found ourselves upon the brink of a stern precipice fron 150 to 200 feet perpen-
dicular, and on either side was an impassable ravine. These, uniting at our feet, swept onwards
to join the river. Through the bottom a small stream of water pursued its meandering
3 n

18

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

course, silent and slothful. The rocks on both sides were cut down vertically, so as to render it
impossible to clamber down even a foot. * * The rocks were highly ferruginous sandstone,
rusty and blackened by oxidation, and harmonized well with the dark green foliage of the cedar.
Latitude 35° 50" 43' ; longitude 104° 10' 19".

August 30. — In our journey to-day we have been forced to bear strongly towards the east,
in order to avoid the deep gullies which, in rainy weather, serve to drain the elevated plain
upon which we now found ourselves ; for, on looking to the south, we saw it suddenly break off,
and the eye plunged into an ocean of mist floating over a prairie of indefinite extent far below,
now and then pierced by the tops of seeming islands whose summits, on a level with our feet,
had once formed an integral portion of this plain. Here the river escapes from the jaws of the
canon, where the rocks are piled up to the height of GOO feet. Being everywhere covered with
a dense growth of timber, they present very much the appearance of rising mountains. * * *
The valley of the Canadian, four or five hundred feet below, lay spread out to the breadth of twelve
or fifteen miles, roughened by isolated ledges of rock and curiously shaped buttes, being bounded
on the opposite side by cliffs scarcely discernible. * * * Continuing our journey, and con-
stantly forced by the nature of the country still further from the river, we reached a passable
camping ground in the bottom of a small ravine, * * having made a march of twenty-two
miles. We found here plenty of grapes and plums, the latter not yet fully ripe. This country
abor.nds with timber, and on an elevated ground to the east of us is a fine grove of timber. * *
August 31. (Valley of Utah creek.) — As we found ourselves getting still further from the
route we wished to pursue, * * we resolved to attempt the descent. * * Having cleared
the loose fragments of rock from an inclined slope of 150 feet in length, which terminated in a
shelf, and from which we thought to find a winding path to the bottom, * * the wagons,
by means of ropes, were let down. * * * The stream we first struck was the Arroyo de los
Yutas, or * * Salt creek. That which we finally encamped on was a tributary to it. The
Sancy plain over which we had just passed was strewn with numerous flowers, which indicated
a change of soil. * * Latitude 35° 41' 56". 6 ; longitude 103° 45' 5".

September 1. (Utah creek.) — Before we had proceeded far we found a rapid running stream.
* * * The valley, though sandy, appeared fertile. * * A grove of large cotton-wood,
surrounded by a natural meadow of fine tall grass, made our camp one of the best we had
found. * * To the south the beautiful valley of the Canadian spread out, covered with scat-
tering "buttes." * * A heavy line of timber marked the course of the river itself, and we
judged that we were still twelve miles distant from it. * *

September 2. (Junction of Utah creek with the Canadian, five miles west of the mouth of
Tucumcari creek.) — We are now in a shady grove of buttonwood, * * mingled with cotton-
wood. Since we left the Canadian, at the " El Vado de Piedras," it has increased to seventy
or eighty feet in width, with a deep and very rapid current, so that we could scarcely keep our
feet whilst bathing. The bottom in which we encamped is everywhere covered with various
species of cactus. * * * Among the sylva, the hackberry * * is quite common, and we
observed for the first time an extensive grove of the Pride of India, * * a tree gifted with
a beautiful form and dense foliage, not more than thirty feet in height. * * The trees were
everywhere loaded with heavy masses of grape-vines, * * which afforded the whole camp a
great abundance of fruit. * * * At this place is what is called the " Spanish Crossing,"
where the people of New Mexico pass with pack-mules on their way to and from the Comanche
country. Latitude 35° 20' 59" ; longitude 103° 29' 38".

September 3. (About eight miles east of Tucumcari creek.) — We commenced fo^owing the
Gooalpa, (Canadian,) meeting with scarcely any obstructions, although the road was strewed
with the broken axletrees of the Spanish carts that had preceded us. On the way we found
quantities of luscious plums. * * * We camped in the Canadian bottom again, near an
old Spanish camp. * *

September A. — The^ trail led us through four or five miles of high and rounded sand-hills,

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

19

wrought into regular form by the winds. * * The day was hot, and as we held our course
over the barren waste, without sign of water, we languished, and feared we should not find that
necessary article. Our sufferings were greatly alleviated by the refreshing fruit of the plum-
tree, which everywhere grew in great abundance ; and we found the fruit equal to any of the
cultivated varieties that we recollected to have tasted in the United States. * * * "We
reached a beautiful valley, where we found a clear, cold spring. * * * Our camp was
formed under a grove of unusually tall cotton-woods, the characteristic sylva of this region, and
which heavily-timbered the course of the rill which flowed from the spring. A few yards north
of our camp were a few low "buttes," covered with dwarf plum-trees, profusely iaden with
fruit. * *

September 5. — We continued on the same trail as yesterday until about 8 o'clock, when, find-
ing that we were rapidly diverging from the river, we were forced to leave it, and to shape our
course almost direct for the "Grooalpa." We passed through a sandy country, * * end,
after a toilsome march of seventeen miles_, reached the bank, canoned by a bluff escarpment 100
feet high, and absolutely impossible of descent. We were obliged to make a retrograde move-
ment, and camped in a deep, tortuous ravine, where we found a little stream of clear water.

* * The valley appeared full of grape-vines. * * "We saw to-day an abundance of mez-
quite, * * thought by some persons to be the same as the " acacia Arabica."

September 6. — After quite a pleasant march on the level prairie we attempted to reach the
river, and, knowing that there were high banks which coasted it, we undertook to reach its
valley by the way of a tributary ravine. * * * * We find the Canadian still increasing
in width and velocity of its waters, which have now a deep tinge, and justly merit the name of
Colorado. Latitude 35° 31' 36" ; longitude 102° 47' 02".

September 7. — * * * * The sandy bed of the river is here 100 yards wide ; the water,
dwindled to a small stream by the absorbing material through which it flows, is slowly mean-
dering, and as we travel on is alternately rising and disappearing. After a march of 19 miles
we again formed our " kraal " in the bottom. * * * * Our road to-day was everywhere
beautified by a luxuriant profusion of plum-trees and grape-vines. * *

September 8. — * * * * About noon we found a stream of cool water which ran swiftly
along the bottom of a deep ravine. * * * * "We pitched our tents at night on a point
lying between the river and the bluff. * *

September 9. — The rain still continuing at intervals, we remained in camp all day. * * *
The river had been rising gradually during the day. On hearing a rush of water, and looking
out, we saw a foaming torrent, bearing rapidly along with it trunks and branches of trees.

* * * * The river immediately doubled in depth and velocity, and, for a moment, threat-
ened to deluge our camp, and at once dissipated our hope of being able to cross it and pursue
our journey on the opposite side. We were therefore forced to clear a way along the face of the
bluff. * * * The bottom here is pretty wide, and bears marks of fertility, and is walled up
by a bluff 100 feet high. * *

September 10. — At an early hour in the morning we were on our way, and soon leaving the
bottom, entered a more desolate country than we had hitherto seen. The high and dry table-
lands were covered with but a few scattered plants, and were altogether desert-like. The cacti
and mezquite were most abundant. * * * "Wherever wo approached the river we found it
swollen and muddy, with a very rapid current. * * * We again found an abundanco of
prickly pears, grape-vines, and plum-trees. * * * Our day's march was upwards of 27
miles, and the route sandy. * * * We encamped close to the river's banks, which were not
more than five feet high, with the bottom extending back 300 feet to the base of the bluffs.
Upon going into the river to bathe I found the depth to be two feet. * * * Latitude 35°
27' 25" ; longitude 102° 0' 6".

September 11. — At 7 o'clock we found ourselves on our journey, but experienced some trouble
by meeting continually with cut rock and deep ravines. Passing into a valley, beautiful in the

20

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

freshness of its vegetation, we entered a bottom where the tall grass grew abundantly. As we
wound along under a romantic cliff, our progress was suddenly stayed by a projecting bluff
which rendered further advance impossible. To cross was impracticable ; to recede would
occupy too much time ; it was therefore resolved to ascend the bluff, which was here very steep
and high. * * * Passing onward, the road for a time promised to be smooth, when sud-
denly an immense ravine yawned before us, and we were on the brink of the river again at a
point where it was joined by one of its tributaries. As we looked onward, nothing but red
precipices met our view, and they were piled up 250 feet perpendicular, and perfectly impassable.

* * * On looking down into the deep canon, instead of the beautiful green strip at the
bottom, which we had hitherto seen, we discovered that it was covered with sand-hills. * * *
We now found ourselves obliged to turn back in order to head the ravine we had encountered,

* * and encamped on a neck of land between two valleys. * *
September 12. — (No topographical remarks.)

September 13. — * * * Shortly before reaching camp we were obliged to cross the bottom
of a creek several times. * *

September 14. — We now travelled down the sandy bottom of the creek for the distance of
one-fourth of a mile, several times crossing the broad and shallow sheet of water. Just at the
junction with the Canadian we flushed a large covey of quails. Our way now lay along the
low lands on the river-side, where the grass grew tall and the sand was deep. * * * The
bluffs on each side were filled with gypsum of snowy whiteness, crumbling easily. At one
time the river swept down to the base of a projecting spur of the cliff. Our course being
momentarily impeded and our embarrassments increasing, we resolved to hazard an attempt to
cross the river. * * * The river is about half a mile wide, generally shallow, though in
some places belly-deep to the mules. * * * A short distance below our ford we found a
pretty good camping ground. * * * Latitude 35° 47' 56" ; longitude 101° 35' 47".

September 15. — * * * Continuing on down the Canadian, we found the country
around us composed of gypsum. * * * The bottom lands were very well timbered with
cotton-wood, which in some places formed extensive groves. * * * Plum-trees are in abun-
dance, and grape-vines in wild luxuriance, completely enshrouding the shrubbery which upheld
them.

Lieutenant Abert says that on the 27th of September, in longitude 99° 11', on the north side
of the Canadian, he passed through a country "completely covered with a dense growth of
oak, commonly called blackjack oak," the trees not more than 30 feet in height. These
forests stretched back from the river as far as the eye could reach, forming a portion of the
celebrated Cross Timbers. In some of the bottoms, " where the trees were of a more luxuriant
growth," he found " the bur- oak."

SECTION III.

From the head of Pajarito Creek to the crossing of Rio Pecos, forty-four miles.

Thus far the line of location has threaded the principal valleys ; leaving them, only from
choice, whenever a decided advantage could he gained "by it. In this section, upon the other
hand, it will he necessary to cross a dividing ridge, and intersect several chasmed streams
nearly at right angles to their course.

It is prohable that the valley of Tucumcari creek extends far towards the southwest into the
Llano, and forms a favorahle passage to a hranch of Eio Pecos ; connecting our route up the
Canadian with the line explored hy Colonel D. S. Miles, and referred to in his letter to Colonel
Ahert, which is appended to the preceding itinerary. If so, this would unite the Canadian
with Kio Gila ; and make available, for one route, the two great valleys that, extending east
and west, cover so large a portion of the distance hetween the Mississippi river and the Pacific
ocean.

Pajarito creek has its source in a chain of hills that connect the flat-topped Llano on
the south with lofty fragments of the same that exist towards the north, and form the great
canon of the Canadian. The ridge is considerahly hroken. Its slopes are hroad, and, hy
winding around them, little difficulty would he experienced in ohtaining moderate grades.
From the top of this prairie to the hanks of the Pecos the country continues high and undulating,
with few spots fit for cultivation.. Hurrah creek and two branches of Eio Gallinas cut through
it, making it necessary to adopt heavier grades than were generally required upon the previous
section ; the maximum being 78.3 feet per mile. Upon this section there is plenty of fuel, hut
timber is wanting. For oak we must have recourse to the Cross Timbers. Forests of pine are
found nearer at hand, upon the highlands bordering the Pecos. The streams crossed may be
easily bridged ; the materials for masonry being abundant upon the banks. Below Anton
Chico there is a long, sloping bank leading gently down into the Pecos valley. The ascent to
the high plains upon the western bank is rough and difficult. However, with a grade of 93.7
feet per mile, it is not impracticable ; and the profile is constructed upon that route.

From the springs at Las Chupainas a westerly course would conduct to the crest of the bank
overlooking the Pecos, and thence along the side of a spur which abuts upon the river a short
distance above Anton Chico. On the opposite bank approaches a bluff of the canon having
nearly the same height. A viaduct thrown over the river there would save a descent of several
hundred feet. Sandstone, limestone, and gypsum could be obtained in the vicinity for such a
construction. Forests of Douglass' spruce are abundant upon the neighboring heights, afford-
ing good material for railroad ties. Upon the mountains, from twenty to thirty miles distant,
there is a supply of pitch-pine timber of large size, well suited for the purpose of bridge-building.
La Cuesta is fifteen miles west-northwest from Anton Chico; and the difference of level between
the two places, as indicated by barometer, is five hundred feet. This would show a fall in the
river of about 30 feet to the mile. The bluffs between which the Pecos flows, as observed at
La Cuesta, are five hundred feet in height. Below, they are said to form a very narrow canon ;
and it might be found advantageous to follow the left bank to this gorge, where, probably, a
shorter viaduct would serve to unite them, and place the road on the general level of the country.
The following notes from the field-books are more specific regarding the details of the tono-
graphy on the trail.

22

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

Between camp 51 and station 2 there is a water-course. To the right of station 2 the bluff
edge of the high mesa is five miles distant. It is rocky, and, as elsewhere, covered with fir
trees. At station 4 the bluffs upon the left are but sixty yards distant. From stations 4 to 6
the prairie extends two miles to the right of the trail ; and after passing the summit which
separates the waters of the Canadian from those of Rio Pecos, it slopes gently towards the left
two and a half miles. There is a large pool of water between stations 13 and 14. The prairie
extends three miles upon the left and two and a half miles on the right of the trail. Camp 52 is
upon the bank of Hurrah creek, four miles above its junction with the Gallinas. It is a clear
and rapid stream, destitute of wood.

From Camp 52, on Hurrah creek, to Camp 53, at Las Chupainas, is a high broken prairie,
intersected by many ravines. Near station 3 is a ravine the bed of which is 20 feet wide.
From station 3 to 4 the ascent is steep ; beyond there is a wide plain. Between stations 8 and
9 is a stream, with pools of water. Station 15 is in the water of Rio Callinas, which contains
neither wood nor soil fit for cultivation. There is a stream of water between stations 18 and
19, and another at Camp 53, the water of which proceeds from the springs of Las Chupainas,
and is slightly brackish. There is fuel, but no good timber, upon the slopes of the mesas back
of camp. Large forests exist some miles distant towards the Santa Fe mountains.

North of Camp 53 is Man-of-War mountain, a high, mesa-capped peak in a range of new-red
sandstone hills that extends towards the northwest and bounds the Pecos valley. The sides are
steep, rocky, and covered with cedars. A secondary spur, of nearly the same altitude as the
general surface of the high prairies, extends from this place to the Pecos river above Anton
Chico. From Camp 53 to station 1 the trail crosses the wide and fertile basin which is watered
by springs from the bluffs. There are pools of water near station 2. Thence to station 8, in
the Pecos valley, the descent is by a long and regular slope. The river is crossed between
stations 8 and 9, its stream being about fifty feet wide and two and a half feet deep and the
bed rocky. Station 9 is at Camp 54, upon the west side of the Pecos valley, a few hundred
yards from the river. The village of Anton Chico is about three-fourths of a mile above, over-
looking the river and a wide extent of cultivated valley.

SECTION IV.

From Rio Pecos to Rio del Norte, one hundred and four miles.

Having reached the top of the bluffs which hound the western edge of the Pecos valley, our
route, as far as the entrance to Canon Blanco, lies upon an elevated table-land, the geological
strata of which, by the upheaval of the Rocky mountains, have been tilted from 15° to 20° to
the east. The surface is somewhat broken by wooded hills and broad valleys leading to the
Pecos. The descent is easy into Canon Blanco, which for several miles forms an excellent loca-
tion for a railway. To issue from it, near the head of one of its branches, and cross a low ridge
which separates its waters from those of Laguna, would require considerable labor. The summit
may be reached by edging along the side of the canon and throwing a high embankment across
a branch ravine. The profile, however, follows to the head of one of the branches, and makes
a deep cut through the crest of the ridge. This summit, the most elevated crossed by our trail
between the Mississippi river and the Rio del Norte, is 6,943 feet above the level of the sea ; and,
although its elevation above the prairies, east and west, is but slight, it may be considered as
the Pass of the Rocky mountain chain.

Laguna, which lies a short distance west of the ridge above referred to, is a depression in the
prairie, which receives the drainage of a wide surface, and forms a natural reservoir, containing
a large supply of water. From this point, looking west, are seen the Zandia mountains, about
thirty miles distant. To the north lie the mountains of Santa Fe. Between these two masses
of mountains there is an opening, through which Rio Galisteo flows to Rio del Norte. South
of Zandia mountain is seen a depression in the chain separating the Zandia from Manzana
mountain, and forming the Pass of San Antonio, which leads directly to Albuquerque, or
to Isleta. Eastward of that range, and from the vicinity of Santa Fe on the north, to the
Salinas on the south, lies a prairie, the general surface of which is somewhat undulating, and
occasionally traversed by ravines. The crest, which bounds it upon the east, seems to possess .
about the same height at the head of Rio Galisteo as at the point already noticed near the
Laguna. This appearance, connected with subsequent observations, led to the belief that a
railway might ascend the east bank of the Pecos to some favorable crossing place, said to exist
in the vicinity of San Miguel, and thence pass into the valley of Rio Galisteo, which leads to
the Del Norte, near San Felipe. Our own explorations for a crossing of Rio Pecos were confined
to the vicinity of Anton Chico and La Cuesta. This river, as has been stated, 'flows in a deep
canon, with a ribbon-like valley of excellent soil enclosed within bluff banks near the villages
mentioned. Between those places the canon is contracted to a narrow chasm, which may be sur-
mounted by a viaduct. Its construction might involve greater expense than would be required
by the route upon which the profile is traced ; but it would cause a saving both in distance and
in grade.

From Camp 54, near Anton Chico, to station 7, the ascent by the road is steep. There is a
ravine further south, through which the profile is carried to obtain a practicable grade. Station
8 is at the summit of the acclivity ; and beyond, the general surface is moderately undulating.
In the vicinity of station 10 are hills covered with forests of pines and cedars. Near station I 1
is a peak 200 feet high, and higher hills appear two miles distant upon the left. From station
11 to station 13, the surface is a prairie. From 13 to 15 are cedar trees, and at station IT arc

24

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

hills covered with the same. The slopes are gentle to station 23, where the width of the valley-
traversed is contracted to 100 yards. From station 25 to station 28, the trail passes through a
thick forest of large pine trees. Upon each side of the road, from station 21, and a quarter of a
mile distant, are high hills, steep and rocky ; those upon the right are covered with cedars.
Here, hy a gentle descent, we enter Canon Blanco, a wide chasm, whose rocky sides are covered
with pines and cedars ; and heside a pool of water is Camp 55.

Canon Blanco extends from Camp 55 to station 16. Its width is variable, being at station 1
five hundred and forty yards ; at station 3 one and a half miles ; at station 4 one mile ; and at
station 6 half a mile. At the narrowest point, between stations 6 and 7, the width is one
hundred and fifty yards. The sides of the canon are rocky, steep, and covered with small cedar
trees. It has many branches ; the main one drains the waters from station 3 towards the south-
east. At station 16 the trail issues from the canon and, passing a crest to an undulating prairie,
reaches Camp 56, near large ponds of water called Lagunas.

From the Lagunas, two routes, as before mentioned, lead to Bio Grande ; one by way of
San Antonio Pass, between Zandia and Manzana mountains, to Isleta, twelve miles south of Albu-
querque ; the other, more northerly, along a branch of Bio Galisteo, around the Gold mount-
ains, to San Felipe. Both routes were found practicable, and each intersects the Del Norte at
a point favorable for bridging. The slope by Galisteo commences directly, and is nearly
uniform through its whole course. The grade would scarcely exceed thirty-five or forty feet
per mile; while, by San Antonio, a maximum of 105.7 feet per mile would be required.
There is much tillable land in the Galisteo valley, but no timber ; that could be obtained among
the Zandia mountains, from ten to twenty miles distant.

The more direct route from the Lagunas to the Bio del Norte, via the San Antonio Pass to
Albuquerque or Isleta, was explored by A. H. Campbell, Esq., my principal assistant engineer.
The following description of this part of the line is taken from his report, and the accompany-
ing cut, representing the Pass of San Antonio, has been taken from his sketches :

"From the Pecos to Albuquerque via Bio San Antonio, or Canon Carnuel. — The problem of
leaving the Pecos is a more difficult one than we have yet had to solve. There are, however,
two methods which are practicable in the vicinity of our exploration, and I doubt not that by
following the river to one of its valleys heading with the Galisteo, a very easy mode of crossing
the Bocky mountain range can be accomplished. To determine a suitable point for crossing
near Anton Chico, and to even approximate to its cost, would require very careful surveys with
the level and the compass. The approach from the east is not so difficult. The river can be
crossed with a single span of 150 feet at Anton Chico, or about half a mile below with a less
span.

"Proceeding, then, from either of those points, one route would lead up a small valley south
of the town, which heads in the elevated plateaux through which the Pecos canons, as at
Cuesta ; pusuing a westerly course thence, over a rolling region, to Canon Blanco. The average
ascsnt per mile to this point is but forty-three feet, but the maximum grade for the first ten
miles will be at least eighty feet per mile. The other route from the Pecos would cross the
river some four or five miles above the town by a viaduct, at an elevation of from 150 to 200
feet ; thence to a point some ten or twelve miles from Anton Chico, connecting with the other
route to the summit between Canon Blanco and the Pecos. This route would be several miles
the shorter, and the maximum grade probably not exceed seventy feet per mile. The great cost
of a viaduct on this route, however, would render it a question as to which of these routes would
be preferable. From the entrance to Canon Blanco, the line explored pursues that canon to
near its western limit ; thence, over the divide, into the basin between the Bocky mountains
and the Pecos. For several miles the ground descends in the canon to about half-way through ;
thence ascends to the divide above mentioned. The drainage of this canon is southeasterly,
probably to the Pecos, the main cleft opening and descending in that direction. The grades
through Canon Blanco will be light, not exceeding twenty feet per mile, except at the western

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY. 25

limits, where it will require at least sixty feet grade, and from thirty-five to forty feet cutting, to
attain the summit. From this summit, a little south of Las Lagunas, to the main summit of
the Rocky mountains, at the San Pedro mountain, the line traverses a rolling country, descend-
ing at an average rate per mile of about thirty-three feet to the lowest point of this basin, which
drains, it is supposed, into or towards Las Salinas. From this point the San Pedro Pass can
be approached with a grade of about thirty-five feet per mile.

San Antonio Pass.

"This pass divides the waters which flow into the Eio Tuerto from those that flow into, or
towards, Las Salinas. About nine miles farther is another pass or summit, which divides the
waters of the Tuerto from those of the Rio San Antonio, in the Canon de Carnuel, with a forty-
feet cut at the San Pedro summit, and a descending grade of about eight feet per mile for seven
miles. We pass the second summit with only about forty feet cutting, and thence descend at
the rate of about eighty-two feet per mile for thirteen miles ; thence down the sloping mesa to
the Rio Grande, opposite Isleta, at a rate of about from twelve to fifteen feet per mile. At
Isleta the Rio G-rande contracts through a comparatively narrow gorge, presenting a most favor-
able point for crossing. Three spans of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet will
effect this object, there being a bluff on both sides favorable for landing without embankments."

4 n

SECTION V.

From Rio del Norte to Flax* River, 237.5 miles.

Bridging the river at San Felipe or at Isleta would not be a difficult operation. Few of the
principal railroads in the eastern States are without structures of equal magnitude. From the
point selected, a gentle curve toward the south would enable the engineer to ascend the steep
slope of the high table-land which divides the Del Norte from Eio Puerco. Thence, passing to
the latter stream, he would reach its junction with the valley of Rio San Jose, which extends
westwardly to Campbell's Pass of the Sierra Madre. To this point the grades would be light,
the maximum being 53 feet per mile. Excellent spruce and pine timber is plentiful upon the
slopes of Sierra Madre, and may be easily obtained. Material for masonry is also sufficiently
abundant.

By the term "Sierra Madre" is meant — according to Mr. Gallatinf — " that ridge which
separates the waters that fall into the Atlantic from the rivers which empty into the Pacific
ocean, without any regard to its elevation." Near the sources of Rio Gila it is a lofty range.
Below the parallel of 32° 30' the chain is broken, and divided into a series of minor ridges,
having crests, more or less prominent, extending in the same general north and south direction.
Near latitude 32° this system is extended to about 3° in width, and the low swelling ridges form
a succession of basins, without any surface outlet for their scanty supply of waters. Here rains
are absorbed by the sandy soil, or are evaporated from the mineralized surface of some shallow
lake. The most favorable passage of the Sierra Madre range that can be found north of the
head-waters of Rio Gila, is probably at Campbell's Pass. This, although more elevated than
those of the Mesilla country, possesses but one crest intervening between the waters of the
Atlantic from those of the Pacific. It is a wide gap, separating the ridge known as the Zuni
mountain from the Sierra de San Juan ; upon the east the waters of Agua Azul flow through
the open valley of San Jose, and a rill from the spring of Ojo del Oso courses along the gentle
declivity which forms the Rio Puerco of the west. The great advantages of this pass of the
Sierra Madre consist in its single summit ; in the easy grades by which it may be approached
east and west ; in the convenient positions of springs and streams ; and in its close proximity to
forests of good timber.

Westward from this point we have the valley of Rio Puerco of the west, extending in a gen-
eral west-southwest course for 121 miles, to its junction with Flax river ; the average grade being
about thirteen feet per mile. After leaving the slopes of the Sierre Madre the sylva consist of
cedars upon the prairies and a few cotton-woods upon the banks of the streams ; the pine forests
of the Zuiii mountains contain an ample supply of timber for this section.

The main survey crossed the Sierra Madre by the pass of the Camino del Obispo, and thence
traversed the valley of Zuni. The following notes relate more particularly to that line.

The valley of Rio Grande from Albuquerque to Isleta, fourteen miles, is wide and fertile. It
contains several villages and large haciendas, surrounded Avith well-cultivated fields, which are
irrigated by numerous acequias that traverse the bottom-lands. Upon the west it is bounded

* Flax river is the translation of "Eio del Lino," the first Spanish name given to the stream lately known as the Colo-
rado Chiquito. As there are already within our territory many rivers named Colorado, it would seem desirable to with-
draw this from the list.

f See letter of Hon. Albert Gallatin, in Major Emory's report, Ex. Doc. No. 41, 30th Congress, 1st session.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

27

by the bluff edge of tbe mesa, 700 feet in height, that divides it from the valley of Eio Puerco.
The best point for ascending it is below Isleta. Between Albuquerque and Atrisco the river is
wide, shallow, and usually fordable — measuring 650 yards in width, from bank to bank, and
two to three feet in depth, in two channels which enclose a shifting sand-bar. The banks are
flooded during freshets. The crossing at Isleta is much more favorable for the construction of
a bridge. Spurs, from twenty to twenty-five feet in height, from each side come down to the
water's edge, and the width of the river between is about 800 feet. The bluff of the Puerco
mesa here makes a salient point, but below forms a re-entering angle back of Las Lunas, where
a wide and open ravine leads by a gentle ascent near to the top. The valley of Eio Grande,
opposite the village, is wide, and upon both sides of the river are groves of timber.

The ascent from Isleta commences at station 1, and follows the edge of the mesa slope. Con-
siderable lava and volcanic cones were found in the vicinity of the trail. The soil of the lower
portion of the hill is sandy. The upper stratum of the mesa is a rocky cliff, nearly unbroken
upon our right until we reach the water-course at F. Station 4 is upon the top of the mesa.
Thence for several miles the surface is nearly level, and beyond, we gradually descend by a
wide ravine to the Puerco valley, near the mouth of Eio San Jose.

From Isleta, with light cutting and filling across the gentle spurs, and by keeping higher
upon the slope to the right of the trail, the maximum grade to station 3 would be 52.5 feet per
mile. From station 3 to station 4, with a maximum filling of 30 feet, the grade is 76 feet.
From 4 to 5, the location is on the top of the mesa nearly level. From station 5 to Camp 62,
the grade is from 46 to 56 feet per mile.

At Camp 62, the bed of Eio Puerco is 18 feet below the alluvial soil of the valley. It can be
bridged with a span of 100 feet. The tongue of land included between Eio San Jose and the
Puerco is formed by a ridge of hills, with flat tops, covered with cedar trees. The trail crossed
this ridge a few miles north of the valley of San Jose.

The ascent to the hills is quite steep. From station 1 to station A, the soil is composed of
clay and sand. Twenty -five yards to the left of station A is a hill containing coal. Station 2
is between two hills, 20 yards distant and 20 feet in height, composed of sandstone. At station
3 commences an ascent of 200 feet in two-thirds of a mile, station 8 being upon the summit.
Station 12 is in an arroyo 50 feet below the general surface. To the left of station 16, one mile
from the trail, are hills covered with cedar trees. From station 15 to 16, the ground has a
general slope towards the San Jose valley upon the left. To the right of the trail there is a
range of hills with rocky sides. At station 16 they come within 20 yards of the trail, and are
85 feet high ; somewhat further on, they are composed of red and white sandstone. The valley
extends to the left about a mile, and is bounded by a mountainous range covered with cedar-
trees. About station 17 the soil is sandy, with but little grass. One mile to the right of the
trail, from station 17 to 19, there is a range of hills 120 feet high. The base is formed of a
stratum of red sandstone. Thence we follow the wide valley of Eio San Jose, in which is the
deserted valley of Eito, to Camp 63, where steep, rocky banks approach the river, forming a
canon. On the right, the red sandstone bluff is 300 feet high. The stream here, usually called
Eio Eito, is a good-sized brook ; the water is slightly impregnated with salts.

The route from Eio Puerco to Camp 63 should follow the valley of Eio San Jose, which
affords a light grade, 17.5 feet per mile being the natural inclination of the stream. The trail is
less favorable ; though in the vicinity of it, with considerable cutting and filling, a line may be
traced whose maximum grade would be 70 feet per mile for a distance of two and a quarter miles.

Between Camp 63 and the Pueblo of Laguna, the San Jose river is deflected towards the north
by a spur of hills, at the point of which a narrow canon is formed. The wagon trail is across
the hills ; though with some labor in rock cutting, 'the banks of the stream would doubtless
afford a better location for a railroad. From Camp 63, the trail follows the edge of the stream
to station 4, where it turns into a ravine upon the left, and ascends the high lands. From
station 7 to 10, the rise is 79 feet in a third of a mile. Thence, passing the crest, the descent is

28

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

moderately gradual to station 11, in the valley of La Laguna. From station 11 to 12, the trail
crosses the river. Above this point there is no obstruction in the wide valley of San Jose.
The road, however, passes over the rocky eminence, about 70 feet in height, upon which stands
the Pueblo of Laguna. Thence it follows near the edge of the bluffs, which upon the north
bound the cultivated basin of La Laguna, to a branch of the valley leading to Covero.

The direct route from La Laguna to Camp 65 is through the valley of Rio San Jose, leaving
Covero about two miles to the north. That by the trail, however, may be followed with nearly
equal facility. It leads from Camp 64, through the town of Covero, to a broad plain which
slopes gently from San Mateo to Rio San Jose. Station 7 is upon the edge of that stream,
where the banks are steep, and the channel 20 feet in width. There are cedars upon the hill-
slopes, but no timber in the valley. Thence the trail to Camp 65 follows the narrow
belt of alluvial soil that borders the river ; the bluff banks enclosing it increasing from
50 to 150 feet in height. About two miles north from station' 10, is the foot of a bluff
which bounds the mesa surrounding the volcanic peak of San Mateo. It is about 1,000
feet in height ; and, at station 15, approaches to within 300 yards of the river. At
station 1*7 the valley is one mile in width, and thence to Camp 65 it is covered with luxu-
riant grass. The hills upon both sides are covered with cedar and pine timber. The river
flows beside, and sometimes beneath, a broken coule of lava which threads the"valley. The
grades are easy from La Laguna to this point.

Near Camp 65 the trail crosses the river and ascends the valley with nearly a uniform
grade, via Ojo del Gallo, Agua Azul, and other head springs of Rio San Jose, to the wide
opening at Campbell's Pass, 6,952 feet above the level of the sea. Upon the left are the
Zuni mountains, covered with forests containing several varieties of excellent pine timber.
From the summit westward for about three miles, to Ojo del Oso, the head springs
of Rio Puerco of the west, the surface is somewhat broken, requiring a moderate amount
of cutting to attain a uniform grade of 50 feet per mile. Thence the Rio Puerco of the
west leads through a wide valley toward the west-southwest, crossing the trail from Fort
Defiance about twenty-five miles north-northwest of Zuni, and coursing onward to Flax river,
with which it unites near the mouth of Lithodendron creek.

The wagon route through the Obispo Pass and along the Zuni li^er struck the Puerco of the
west near the Navajo springs, at Camp 74. The region traversed is fertile, but unfavorable for
a railroad, on account of the high altitude at which the Sierra Madre was crossed, and the
necessity of a tunnel at that place. The grades through Campbell's Pass and along Rio Puerco
of the west are highly favorable ; but the river, though at all times containing large pools of
water, is not a constantly flowing stream, and its banks are destitute of timber. Cedar forests,
however, cover the mesas in the vicinity. Near its mouth, the Puerco, like Lithodendron and
other creeks in that region, cuts through the gravelly mesa, and forms deep ravines which would
require bridging. Quarries of sandstone, fit for masonry, may be found in the vicinity of the
valley of Flax river.

SECTION VI.

From Flax River to Rio Colorado, 307.7 miles.

It is much to be regretted that a greater length of time could not have been devoted to the
examination of the region embraced in this section. It is full of interest, and probably no
other portion of our territory would so richly recompense the cost and labor of a minute explo-
ration. The region referred to is mainly included between the Gila and Colorada rivers, and
their principal tributaries, Rio Verde and Flax river. The latter, having its sources in the
Mogoyon and Zuni regions, flows west and northwest to the Colorado, with which it is sup-
posed to unite near the head of the celebrated Great Canon. Thence, the Colorado is said to
course westward, through a fissure 1,500 feet below the surface of the vast plain that borders
it, to the mouth of Rio Virgen ; there it turns south, and moves onward to the junction of
Rio Gila. Rio Verde takes its rise near the San Francisco mountains, and, flowing south
through fetile valleys, joins the Salinas and unites with Rio Gila near the Coco Maricopa vil-
lages. The Gila forms the southern boundary of the area under consideration, which our line
of survey intersects. It is traversed by several mountain chains of greater or less extent — of
which the Hamook-kabi (Blue Ridge), Cerbat, Aquarius, Aztec, Black Forest, and Mogollon
ranges are the principal — and dotted with many conical hills of volcanic origin. Between them
are springs, streams, and valleys of considerable fertility.

The northern portion of this area is believed to be an elevated table-land of the new-red sand-
stone formation ; with strata slightly dipping towards the north-northeast, forming a region
nearly as barren and waterless, upon the surface, as the celebrated Llano Estacado. Captain Sit-
greaves traversed it in 1852, and from Camp 21 to Camp 26, a distance of 75 or 80 miles, no
water was found. Near the parallel of 35° 15' the strata are broken ; and south of that line the
upper portions are swept away, exposing " magnesian limestone, sandstone of the coal measures,
and the carboniferous limestone." Still farther south, " and especially at Pueblo creek, beds
of old-red sandstone are seen below the lower carboniferous, and in contact with the gneiss and
granite, similar to the old-red of the Catskill mountains."* Extending across this country, in
a direction northeast and southwest, there is a series of volcanic cones indicating an axis of
igneous eruptions. The San Francisco peaks, which are 5,000 feet above the base of the mount-
ain, and 12,000 feet above the sea, appear to mark the point of greatest activity. Thence, the
line of cones can be traced eastwardly across Flax river towards the Moqui country, and south-
west so as to include Bill Williams' mountain, Mount Hope, in the Aztec range, and Mount
Ives and Artillery Peak, upon Williams' river. Whatever may be the cause, the fact is evident
that a large portion of the region south of the parallel of 35° 15' is well watered and fertile ;
while that north of it is the reverse. Ruins of ancient pueblos and evidences of former cultiva-
tion are abundant throughout the valleys leading towards the Gila. The mountains and hills
are covered with timber, the plains are variegated with patches of woodland and pasture, and
the borders of the streams contain belts of arable soil. This country is capable of sustaining
a considerable pastoral and agricultural population ; and, probably, the mines of silver and gold
reported by the Spaniards and Indians as existing in the San Francisco and other mountains in
the vicinity, and of which we saw indications, will add inducements to its settlement.

West of the Aztec range the character of the country is considerably modified. The streams
have generally a southwest course until they break through the beds of trap, lying upon the

** See the preliminary report of Jules Marcou, geologist to the expedition.

30

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

eastern slope of the Aquarius mountains, and join the main valley of Williams' river. North
of White Cliff creek there are long, swelling slopes, peculiar to a granitic region, with two
distinct ranges of mountains hetween Cactus Pass and Eio Colorado. These ranges extend
nearly in a north and south direction, with hroad depressions hetween them. The eastern
terminates, or is "broken, near the parallel of 35°, leaving between it and the northern point of
the Cerhat range a wide opening. The western range, called Blue Eidge, or Hamook-hdbi*
which "borders the left bank of the Colorado, extends somewhat farther south ; but gradually
diminishes in height, and, near the latitude of the Mojave villages, is lost in an extensive
prairie. Upon the east this prairie is hounded by the Cerbat range ; and upon the south hy
numerous parallel chains of metamorphic mountains, through which Williams' river breaks
in its course to the Colorado.

At the southeast point of the great hend of Williams' river is the junction of Rio Santa
Maria, which appears to take its rise near a low depression in the Aztec range between Sierra
Prieta and Mount Hope. It evidently drains a wide extent of country, the character of which
is not known. Near its mouth it has a strip of valley with alluvial soil of apparent fertility.
The sylva upon its banks are mezquites, mingled with cotton-wood trees.

From the Aztec range to the Aquarius mountains, the hills are covered with pine and cedar
trees ; and the plains, which are mainly formed hy immense heds of trap, are clothed with a
carpet of nutritious gramina. Most of the numerous rivulets which traverse this region,
south of the latitude of Aztec Pass, form narrow canons through the igneous rocks, and possess
little soil capahle of cultivation. Enclosed hetween the Aquarius and Cerhat ranges is the
bed of Williams' river, which flows nearly south until it enters short canons among metamorphic
hills of the Cerhat range ; it then turns westward, unites with the Santa Maria, and forces its
way to the Colorado. The bottom-lands of the valley will average from half a mile to a mile
in width, and the surface consists of alternate patches of sand and fertile soil. Groves of mez-
quite and cotton-wood, with dense thickets of willows, exist upon its banks, giving to this
stream some of the characteristics belonging to the Gila. The hills that enclose it are generally
barren of all useful vegetation, though diversified with numerous varieties of beautiful cactacea?,
rendering the scenery novel and picturesque.

From an examination of the observations made at numerous points of the survey, it now
appears evident that gently sloping prairies extend continuously from the mouth of White Cliff
creek around the northern extremity of the Cerbat range; and thence, sweeping slightly south
for the purpose of avoiding the Blue Ridge, to the Mojave crossing of Rio Colorado. The dis-
tance for a railroad by that line would be about 70 miles. Grades of about 92 feet per mile
could probably be obtained, with little expense for excavation or embankment. There is
neither timber nor fuel in the vicinity ; both would be brought from the Aztec and Aquarius
mountains. Water is scarce ; the Indians informed us of two springs only upon the route,
which would make the distance from water to water about twenty-five miles. I do not know
whether the substrata are such as to make it probable that water could be obtained at proper
points by artesian borings ; but a supply could doubtless be preserved by judiciously constructed
tanks.

From our entrance to the valley of Rio Colorado Chiquito, or Flax river, its course is slightly
north of west to Camp 82, a distance of about 35 miles ; and the arable soil bordering it averages
from one to two miles in width. The river is about 30 feet wide, flowing between alluvial
banks eight to ten feet in height. The soil is generally light and porous, like that of Rio Gila.

O Mr. Blake has lately called my attention to the etymology of the word "Mojave." It appears to he formed of two Tuma
words — hamook (three,) and habi (mountains) — and designates the tribe of Indians which occupies a valley of the Colo-
rado lying between three mountains. The ranges supposed to be referred to are : 1st, "The Needles," which terminates
the valley upon the south, and is called Asientic-habi, or first range ; 2d, the heights that bound the right bank of the
Colorado north of the Mojave villages, termed Havic-habi, or second range ; and, 3d, the Blue Ridge, extending along the
left bank of the river, to which has been given the name of Hamook-habi, or third range.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

31

The banks of the main stream, as well as those of the numerous tributaries, are sprinkled with
cotton- wood trees. Small groves of them occur at the junctions of these streams. Leroux's Fork
is crossed near Camp 78. It is a rivulet of clear water about 20 feet wide, and densely wooded.
Beyond., the valley is bordered with low, gravelly mesas, covered with a species of nutritious
grass called grama, and has an elevation of about 50 feet above the river. The wagons
frequently crossed spurs from them to avoid patches of soft earth in the bottoms. Between
stations 3 and 4, a valley half a mile wide comes in from the northeast. At station 5, there is
a branch from the north, with steep banks 10 feet in height. Between stations 5 and 6, sand-
stone bluffs, rising upon the right of the trail to the height of 150 feet, bound the valley, which
is here one-third of a mile wide. Upon the opposite side of the river, near station 10, is the
escarped edge of an elevated plain, extending south, apparently, to the Mogollon mountains.
It is intersected by several tributaries. Between Camps 79 and 80, the river-bottom is in some
places marshy, with willow thickets, and in others covered with a loose, pulverized soil. The
south side of the valley appears to be in some places from two to two and a half miles wide.
There is much marshy ground between Camps 80 and 81, which may be avoided by following
the trail along the edge of the prairie slopes. Cottonwood Fork joins Flax river near station 2.
The latter stream may be bridged at this place, or the line continued upon the north bank to
the old Indian pueblo at Camp 82. Here the river is finely timbered with cotton- wood, and the
south side of the wide valley contains traces of an ancient acequia.

At the point where the trail crosses the river, the stream is 50 feet wide, two and a half feet
deep, and flows between clayey banks about 10 feet in height. A short distance below, it makes
a bend and sweeps towards the north and northwest. To avoid this deflection, a reconnoissance
was made in a direct line nearly west towards a low gap south of the San Francisco mountains.

Leaving the valley of Flax river a few miles below Camp 82, a low and narrow ridge was
crossed, and a basin-like valley was entered, which, although containing no well defined stream,
was said to be the outlet of Dry Fork. Having traversed this for about five miles, a gradual
and almost imperceptible ascent led to a high prairie, somewhat cut up by gentle valleys, and
dotted with isolated hills of sandstone, from 15 to 30 feet in height. Twenty-six miles from
Camp 82 is the crossing of Canon Diablo, which flows north in a chasm from 100 to 150 feet
deep, and about 100 yards wide, cleft in a horizontal stratum of magnesian limestone. Thence
to station 4, between Camps 89 and 90, the general surface of the intermediate country is a
plain, sloping towards the east with an inclination of 40 feet per mile. It is, however, traversed
by several ravines, occasionally forming small canons ; but they interpose no serious obstacle to
the construction of a railway across this section. There is water in Canon Diablo, and at the
Conino cayes, near this line ; probably it could be found at other intermediate points. Cedar
trees are scattered along the trail between Dry Fork and Canon Diablo. Dense thickets com-
mence a short distance further west ; and, upon reaching the vicinity of the Conino caves, they
give place to forests of magnificent pines.

From the base of the San Francisco peaks, many wide valleys, bounded by heavily timbered
hills, extend towards the branches of Canon Diablo and Flax river. Station 4 is upon the
northern edge of one of the former, called Pine valley, which has a breadth of about five or six
miles. The trail ascends its smooth, grassy slope. At station 6 the valley is several miles
wide ; at station 9, it unites with a broad, open prairie,, bordered with pine forests, and extend-
ing towards the northwest to the foot of the steep mountain slopes. Continuing up this valley
towards the southwest, at station D we reach the summit of a low ridge between the San Fran-
cisco mountains and a long spur from the Sierra Mogollon, which divides the waters of the
Colorado Chiquito from Rio Verde. The ascent to this point is remarkably uniform ; and the
deep depression which here exists between the mountains is about a mile in width, and so gentle
in its declivities as to render it difficult to define the exact position of the dividing crest. Superb
forests cover the slopes of the mountains upon each side. The maximum grade through this

32

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

pass — according to the profile — is 85 feet per mile ; and an excavation would be required at the
summit. Thence to Camp 90, the descent would not he difficult with moderate grades.

From Camp 90 to station 5, the line continues upon the edge of the pine forest overlooking
the immense valley of Rio Verde. This stream heads in various ravines formed by spurs from
the San Francisco mountains. The southeastern terminus of this range, or rather mass of mount-
ains, is a huge pile of granite, rising abruptly upon the right of the trail to the height of
about 2,500 feet. To the northwest, several volcanic peaks appear, elevated 5,000 feet above the
base. Crossing the low spur upon which station 7 is situated, we enter another branch of the
valley, and at station 13 reach the springs of San Francisco. Water is abundant here, and it
flows in a small stream southward to the Rio Verde. From these springs we pass a slight
ascent, and enter a dry canon, the narrowest part of which (about 100 feet) was plentifully
strewed with boulders broken from the cliffs. From this point the trail ascended the bank,
about 200 feet in height, and, having crossed an undulating surface, re-entered the valley at
station 9. Thence to Camp 91 there is a broad valley the whole way, and at the head of it
is Leroux's spring, where a stream of clear water gushes from the hill-side. Its temperature,
December 29, at sunrise, was 48.4° Fahrenheit ; that of the atmosphere at the same time
being 37°. 5. Large pine and spruce trees grow in the ravines and upon the sides of the mount-
ains ; and extensive forests of different varieties of good timber cover the vast plains and
valleys that slope toward the south. With regard to the construction of a railroad from Camp
90 to Camp 91, no difficulties were presented to the eye, except for a short distance through the
canon referred to. The reduction of the notes of survey, however, leads to conclusions less
satisfactory than had been anticipated ; and, unless some error has crept into the work, the maxi-
mum grade will exceed 90 feet per mile, and the labor of graduation will be great. To avoid
these objections a more southerly course across branches of Rio Verde has been recommended.

Leaving Leroux's spring, and the fertile basin which it irrigates, the trail crosses a slight
ridge* north of Triangulation hill, traverses a forest of yellow pines and long, grassy plains to
New Year's spring, at Camp 94. A secondary range extends towards the west, from the San
Francisco peaks, and, two or three miles distant from the trail upon the right, contains several
peaks from 2,000 to 2,500 feet above the plains at their southern bases.

Nearly south southwest from New Year's spring is Bill Williams' mountain, about 10 miles
distant, whose peaks are above 3,000 feet high. The intermediate country has a generally level
surface, divided into woodland and prairie. The hill-slopes are covered with pine timber.

One mile east from New Year's spring there is a hill about 200 feet high, from the top of
which is obtained an extensive view of the surrounding country. Towards the north and north-
northwest appears an elevated plairj, looking bleak, waterless and barren. It is dotted with
conical hills of black volcanic rock. In a west-northwest direction, a broad open valley, dark
with the foliage of cedar forests, extends to the mountains of La Laja, and for some distance is
bounded upon the southwest by a low range of hills covered with trees excellent for timber.
Towards the south-southwest lies the volcanic pile of mountains called "Bill Williams'," west of
which is a succession of valleys and plains extending about 30 miles from New Year's spring
to a conspicuous peak known as Picacho. This is the southern terminus of the range of La Laja ;
and at its base Partridge creek, which drains the intermediate country, empties into Vol de
China. The triangular space included between New Year's spring, Bill Williams' mountain,
and Picacho, has the general appearance of a vast plaio sloping gently to the southwest ; ex-
amined more minutely, it is dotted with small hills and traversed by valleys, which in a few
places are contracted, and enclosed by low walls forming canons. There is good pine timber in

° A reduction of the reading of the barometer at noon upon the summit of this ridge makes its altitude 201 feet above
Leroux's spring. Mr. Campbell agrees with me in the opinion that it is too great. This appears to be one of the errors
which will be found referred to in the subsequent "Remarks upon the profile.'1 It is consequent to the application of the
formula for correction due to mid-day air temperatures. The effect is, as there stated, to give a roughness to the profile,
and heavier grades than the surface of the country requires.

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

33

the vicinity of New Year's spring, and also in the region of Bill Williams' mountain. East
of Val de China lies an extensive tract covered with large cedars and piiions, forming the
so called Black Forest.

It may he seen from the profile, that, by the trail from the San Francisco springs to Picacho,
the route is not impracticable for a railroad. The conformation of the country south of that
line, however, is such as to lead to the belief that, by crossing the head branches of Bio Yerde
south of Bill Williams' mountain, traversing the Black Forest, and entering Yal de China
near the mouth of Pueblo creek, we would avoid the ascent above the San Francisco springs,
entirely dispense with the most elevated summit upon the route, and shorten the distance to
Aztec Pass without increasing the grades or expense per mile for graduation. Many questions
regarding similar deviations from the line are to be determined by more elaborate surveys.

A semi-circular range of hills extends from the San Francisco peaks to Bill Williams'
mountain, forming the northern and eastern boundary of the flat prairie and forest basin, which
has been described. Near New Year's spring there is a wide gap in it, where the ridge is
almost inappreciable. From thispointalow spur extends west and west-northwest to the mountains
of La Laja ; dividing the water courses which drain northwest, through Park valley, from those
that flow, by various branches of Partridge creek, into Yal de China. From the examinations
made, it was found easy to pass down the southern slope of this ridge into the valley of an eastern
branch of Partridge creek. By some mistake, however, attributed to the intricacies of the
numerous ravines, and the thickets of trees that cover much of this region, the train and the
main survey followed, for a considerable distance, the northern base of the ridge, and beyond
Camp 95 crossed over to Partridge creek. The more minute topography is, therefore, upon this
line.

New Year's spring, at Camp 94, is at the head of one of the branches of Park valley. It
is surrounded by a grove of pine trees, from 125 to 150 feet in height. Leaving the spring, we
ascend the low prairie ridge and take a westerly course over a surface that, at a distance,
appears level ; but is found to be considerably broken by ravines, some of them from 30 to 50
feet in depth. The first contained pools of water. Station 1 is in Park valley, which, covered
with cedar trees, extends like a broad plain towards the northwest, with the view uninterrupted
almost to the horizon. Savedra made an exploration across this valley, and was absent three
days without finding water. Again rising to the prairie at station B, we were about half a mile
from the most northerly peak of Bill Williams' mountain, which is about 500 feet in height.
To our right, between stations 3 and 4, there is a valley ; and from 4 to 7 the trail is parallel
to it. Between stations 8 and 9 we crossed a canon, and at station 10 entered another ; both of
which incline to the right. Passing onward to Lava creek, we found a magnificent pool of water,
and encamped. The soil of the prairies, though covered with excellent grama, is somewhat sandy,
and overlies beds of lava or trap. The rock is exposed upon the sides of the canons. Even the
valleys have little depth of soil, and are uncultivable. Pine trees cover the hills and extend
along the valleys. The grade for a road need not exceed 55 feet per mile. The ravines would
be difficult to cross, but by keeping more to the left, most of them could be headed.

From Camp 95 to station 4, the trail descends to a broad canon, about one-fourth of a mile
wide at top, and the banks 75 feet in height. Near stations 7 and 8 are large piles of naked
lava. The pines have now given place to cedars, which cover the slopes in every direction.
Passing a slight elevation, we entered another valley, which, as we advanced, grew narrow,
and between stations 8 and 9 formed a rocky ravine. We ascended the side slopes 135 feet to
station B, which is upon the crest of a high ridge covered with cedar and pifion trees. It is
composed of sandstone and carboniferous limestone, and extends far towards the right with a
regular slope. About three or four miles beyond, there is a similar and parallel range of hills ;
and, between, lies a wide valley, densely wooded, and called — perhaps improperly, for we found
no water in it— Cedar creek. From station B the descent for about 200 feet was at an inclina-
tion of nearly 45° ; thence to station 13, two miles, 280 feet ; and from that point, one mile and

34

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

a third, to Camp 96, in the bottom of the valley, 160 feet. This ridge would be impracticable
for a railroad, except for the smoothness, regularity, and extent of its western slope. From an
examination of the ground, it would appear practicable to cut through the crest at the gorge
referred to, and construct a road upon the side slope, with a grade of about 75 feet per mile.
This would enable us to strike the trail at station 14, between Camps 96 and 97.

From Camp 96 we followed the valley, which between stations 1 and 2 is contracted to the width
of 150 yards, with banks from 20 to 30 feet in height. Beyond, the slopes upon the left are
gentle ; and at station 5 a wide branch of the valley comes in from the south. Three miles to
the right of station A is the continuation of the bluffs, crossed at station B, between Camps 95
and 96 ; and they continue far towards the west-northwest. The valley between is dotted with
knolls and sprinkled with cedar thickets. The surface is smooth and covered with grass. A
quarter of a mile to the right of station 13 there is a hill 200 feet high. The slopes to the right
are very gentle ; the surface is prairie, with few trees. Upon the hill-sides, to the right of stations
14 and 15, much red sandstone appears. Here we passed a low dividing ridge, and entered the
valley of Partridge creek — high hills continuing upon the right of the trail. Beyond, the valley
becomes narrow, and at length enters a canon of Partridge creek, with high bluff banks, which
are covered with cedar trees. The trail followed the undulating slopes upon its borders to Camp
97, situated within a rocky glen, where the creek contained large pools of water. The geolo-
gical outcrops are of the lower carboniferous formation. The country passed over is rough, but
the general slopes are favorable for a roadway. From station 14 to Camp 97 the maximum
grade may amount to 80 or 90 feet per mile.

From Camp 97 to Camp 98 the route lies near the canon of Partridge creek. Its steep banks
are from 50 to 80 feet in height, varying from one to three hundred yards in width. The top
of the bluffs, though broken and rough, are upon a level with the general surface of the coun-
try, and, for a road, the labor of graduation would be less at some distance from the creek.
The stream is not flowing, but it contains numerous pools of water. Grass aud trees are abund-
ant upon the trail. There is but little arable soil in the vicing.

From Camp 98 to station 5, the trail follows the bed of the canon. At that point the banks
recede, leaving a good- sized valley between. The stream, however, makes a large bend toward
the southeast ; and, to avoid it, the line of survey took a direct course southwest across the
nearly level prairie toward Picacho. Between stations 9 and 10 is a dry arroyo leading to
Partridge creek. The ridge of Black Forest appears about fifteen miles to the left. Another
chain of hills lies upon the right, about ten miles distant. From station 10 to 14 the country
is level, producing a few scattered cedar trees ; thence to Camp 99, the trail crossed a rolling
prairie, intersected by a number of deep ravines, in which water was found. About three
miles to the northwest is Picacho, with a gravelly spur extending to the vicinity of camp,
and forming the southern terminus of the range of La Laja ; the Dlack Forest range, from the
south-southeast, ends about two miles southeast from the same point, leaving between the two
ranges an opening through which Partridge creek flows into the great Val de China. The
bed of this valley is about 200 feet below the general surface of the prairie, which borders
Partridge creek, and ends in a bluff below Camp 99. Camp 100 is situated at the foot of it,
about one mile distant from, and 188 feet below, Camp 99. By following Partridge creek
from Camp 98 to its entrance to Valde China, the grades would be light. It would, probably,
be equally practicable to construct a road along the trail, from station 5 to station 15 — between
Camps 98 and 99 — and there entering a ravine, follow it to the confluence with Val de China,
near Camp 100. The gradients would be favorable, except upon the latter portion, where
they might amount to eighty feet per mile. The direct route from New Year's spring, referred
to in the general description of this region, would take the northeast branch of Partridge creek,
and unite with the survey near Camp 100.

Between Camps 100 and 101, a distance of seven and a half miles, the trail passes across the
rich bottom-lands of, Val de China, in a southwest course, nearly perpendicular to the general
direction of the valley at this point. The country is smooth enough for the laying of tracks

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

35

for a road upon the surface. There are a few water-worn channels, which would be crossed by
culverts or short bridges.

From Camp 101 the course of the trail is south-southwest, toward Mount Hope. Upon the
right is the northern part of the Aztec range of mountains, and from the base of its steep sides
low spurs of hills extend westwardly, gradually sloping to the edge of Val de China. Through
these hills, which are covered with cedar trees, the trail ascends the gentle slope of a small
ravine to its head near station 5. Thence it passes a low ridge and enters a small valley, with
rich alluvial soil, through which flows a pretty rivulet called Turkey creek. Amidst a grove
of oak and walnut timber is Camp 102. From Camp 102 to Camp 103 another spur of hills
is crossed, which separates Turkey creek from Pueblo creek. The latter stream heads at Aztec
Pass and flows easterly through a wide and deep ravine, dividing this range of mountains into
two portions ; the northern being horizontally stratified, the southern disturbed and changed by
subterranean heat. From the foot of the cliffs upon the north to the bed of the rivulet, the
slopes are regular, affording a side location for a railway, with favorable grades around the
southeastern and southern declivities, from the ridge near Turkey creek to Aztec Pass ; thus
avoiding the descent to Camp 103 upon Pueblo creek. There is considerable arable soil upon
this stream, and in the vicinity a variety of sylva. The mountains are covered with pine
timber ; the living streams are bordered with oak, cotton- wood, walnut, or ash, and the hills
yield a dense growth of cedars.

Aztec Pass is between Camps 104 and 105. It is upon the top of a low granitic spur, which

View of Aztec Pass from the Indian ruins, looking south.

seems to connect the northern with the southern portion of the Aztec range. At its junction
with the steep slopes of the southern peaks, two water-courses are formed. The eastern falls
down a steep ravine, half a mile to the foot of the hill, and then, joined by a ravine from the

36

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

north, forms the head of Pueblo creek. The second follows the gentle slope of a wide and
smooth valley towards the west-northwest, and becomes tributary to Williams' river.

The accompanying sketch, taken from the ancient ruins that crown a height upon the north,
overlooking the pass, represents the summit of the dividing ridge and the prolongation of the
Aztec range towards the south. In the distance, upon the left, is seen the top of Mount Hope,
and the Gemini mountain is shown upon the right. From the latter extends a sloping plain
to the wide valley in which Williams' river takes its rise.

The difficulty in constructing a railroad through this pass consists in the high embankment
that would be required to cross the northerly ravine above referred to. With a cut, about 40
feet deep at the summit, the excavation and embankment would be nearly equal, and the
gradients probably would not exceed 50 feet per mile. Having accomplished the passage of
the summit, the descent would be easy down the wide valley through which the trail follows,
to Camp 105. Below, upon the banks of the same rivulet, Camp 106 is situated. A small
stream threads the valley and is occasionally lost beneath the surface. But few trees line its
banks, though pines abound in ravines among the mountains, and cedars are plenty upon
the hill-slopes and upon the plains adjoining.

From Camp 106, the trail follows the valley, in which there are a few small canons cut through
beds of lava. The soil is a sandy loam, producing good grass. Two miles distant upon the
left, there is a ridge of hills bordering the valley. Station 3 is in the bed of a ravine contain-
ing water. From station 3 to station 4, the valley is several miles wide. The slopes of
the hills upon the right are regular ; while, upon the left, the country is rocky and
broken. A low ridge, which, extending from the Gemini mountains, turns the valley towards
the north, was crossed at station 7. Thence, passing a gently undulating prairie, sprinkled with
occasional thickets of cedars, we struck the stream again at Camp 107, where it has high
bluff banks. A short distance below, a chasm is formed ; width about 80 feet, and height of
rocky sides from 60 to 100 feet. There is water in the bed of the stream, and cedar trees upon
the banks. The railroad line from Cimp 106 would follow the valley of the stream, making
a bend towards the north, and thus avoid crossing the cahou.

From Camp 107 to station A, the ascent is not difficult. Thence, attempting to descend
along the bank of the stream, a deep ravine was crossed. One mile to the right of the trail,
there extends a ridge of hills belonging to the Aquarius mountains. The general surface of
the country is an undulating prairie ; the soil containing much clay and loam. The prevailing
rocks are granite and trap, which are so much cut up into chasms as to make the passage with
wagons difficult. Hence the train returned ; and Camp 108 was formed at station A, in the
immediate vicinity of Camp 107. A reconnoitring party, however, pursued the course of the
stream some miles further, and then passed northerly over the slopes of the Aquarius range, to
White Cliff creek, which was followed to its junction with Big Sandy.

From Camp 108 to station A, the surface is somewhat broken. A small stream crosses the
trail between stations 1 and 2, and another between stations 5 and 6 ; both evidently branches
of White Cliff creek. From station 3 to station 7, the surface continues undulating ; although
the general slope is quite uniform, and from a slight eminence appears level. From station 7
to E, between stations 10 and 11, the trail passes over low ridges which divide ravines that
have a southerly direction. Upon the right, three miles distant, there is a range of hills 400
feet high. To the left of station 9 there is a large valley, supposed to contain the main branch
of White Cliff creek ; and from station E to Camp 109 the ground is furrowed by various
ravines, apparently tributaries to that stream. North of camp are rocky hills, covered with
cedars. There is a chain of highlands also upon the left. The profile, from Camp 108, is
projected south of the trail, along the valley noticed above.

The rivulet is rocky in the vicinity of Camp 109. The trail toward the west-northwest
crosses several small valleys which extend southwest among small ridges, peaks, and mesas.
From station 2 to station 3 the surface is level, Near station 4 the dry bed of a stream

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

37

is crossed. From camp to station A, between stations 6 and 7, the ascent is nearly continuous.
There is a steep descent into a canon from station 8 to station 9 ; and the trail from stations 9
to 15 is in the dry bed of a tributary to White Cliff creek. Passing into another branch at
station 16, the trail then ascends its valley to Camp 110, near Cactus Pass. There is water in
this branch of the creek, and cedar trees are still abundant upon all the hill-slopes in the
vicinity. Cactus Pass is not practicable for the location of a railway ; and it is proposed to
make the profile for that line, as before stated, from Camp 108 down the valley of White Cliff
creek. Measurements for that purpose were made upon a reconnoissance, and will be referred
to hereafter.

Cactus Pass is formed by a deep gorge in a high range of granitic mountains. From the
summit, about 300 feet above the pass, an extensive panoramic view is obtained. The Hamook-
habi, or Blue Ridge, is seen bordering the Colorado, and a lesser range intermediate. The
latter terminates nearly in the latitude of this place, and, after an intervening gap, the Cerbat
range is prolonged in the same southerly direction. Toward the northwest there is a vast
plain, leading apparently to Yampa creek, and bounded upon the east by broken ranges of low
mountains. East of the Cactus mountains may be seen the extensive broken plains already
traversed — Cross mountain, 800 feet high, and the Aquarius range, 1,000 feet high, being the
principal of the peaks and ranges that break the general level of its surface.

The ascent from Camp 110 to station 1, at the summit of Cactus Pass, is about 100 feet in
little more than half a mile. Thence, down the first portion of the ravine, the declivity is
nearly precipitous, and in one mile and three-quarters, to station 3, the descent is 830 feet.
Here the valley becomes wide and sandy, and the trail keeps to the left of it, crossing a gently
swelling slope that comes down from a southerly spur of the Cactus mountains. Near station 5
there are springs, in the vicinity of which the reconnoitring party bivouacked, January 28.

Station 6 is 560 feet below station 3. Thence to Camp 111, near the mouth of White Cliff
creek, the descent is 350 feet more ; making a total, from Cactus Pass, of 1,640 feet in a dis-
tance of eight miles. White Cliff creek is a clear and rapid stream, with a strip of fertile soil
upon its banks for eight or nine miles up the valley, to the bivouac of the exploring party,
January 27. Its principal tributary is about four miles below that point, and both streams are
bordered by a dense growth of cotton-wood. The altitude of the bivouac, from the readings of
the barometers, is 4,480 feet, or 950 feet above Camp 111 ; giving the descent of the stream above
100 feet per mile. But, as it contained no steep rapids, to the eye the declivity seemed much
less, and possibly an error may have been made in the record of the observations. The dis-
tance from the bivouac to Camp 108, near the head of this stream, is about 8.5 miles ;
and the altitude of that camp being 4,814 feet, the fall of the rivulet between those points
would be nearly forty feet per mile. Its valley, with the deflection indicated upon the profile
from Camp 108 to Camp 111, may be considered practicable for the location of the railroad
line. White Cliff creek is bounded upon the north by high gravelly slopes and mesas, which
terminate the mountain spur south of Cactus Pass. It is therefore believed feasible to locate
the line upon this ridge, so as to turn the southwest point of the high mountains, and avoid
the descent to the bed of the lower portion of the creek. This line would strike the trail, from
Camp 110 to 111, at station 9 ; which, being about 200 feet above the latter camp, would cause
an improvement in the grade. Station 9 is in a valley leading, by a gentle ascent, to the wide
prairie which has been described as seen from Cactus Pass. It is apparently nearly level to the
gap north of the Cerbat range, and thence inclines, by broad slopes, to the Colorado river. From
an examination of our topographical sketches and views, and a comparison with the heights of
relative points, both upon our own exploration and upon that of Captain Stitgreaves, the ele-
vation of the gap is estimated at 3,900 feet above the sea ; giving for the ascent, from Camp 111,
374 feet, and an ascending grade of 11.5 feet per mile. From this summit a broad plain slopes
the Colorado river, and a spur of it impinges upon that stream between the mountain ridge,
called " The Needles," and the Mojave villages. The elevation of the bluff is 450 feet above

38

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

the sea, and the descent from the pass is 3,450 feet. The distance in nearly a straight line is
37.4 miles, and the grade, if uniform, as the appearance of the country seems to indicate*
would he 92.4 feet per mile. The sketch No. 3, taken from the right bank of Rio Colorado,
looking east, gives a view of the country here described.

The region which includes the Cactus and Aquarius mountains is well supplied with cedar
trees. Westward the sharp-crested ridges appear naked, and the plains nearly destitute of
foliage. Wood is scarce, even for fuel. The two Indian springs, already referred to as existing
upon this route, probably indicate points where, by digging, a sufficiency of water would be
found.

From White Cliff creek to the Mojave crossing of Rio Colorado, our wagon trail followed Big
Sandy creek, Williams' river, and the valley of the Colorado. For a description of the topo-
graphy upon this part of the route I would refer to the Itinerary. Although meagre in its
details, it may suffice to give a general idea of the character of those streams.

SECTION VII.

From Rio Colorado to the Pacific.

The lofty crest of the Sierra Nevada, which forms the distinguishing topographical feature of
California, extends uninterruptedly through five degrees of latitude, from Madeline Pass on the
north, to Walker's Pass on the south, the latter being in latitude 35° 40'. Between these
points, it appears to be conceded that there is no break in the chain available for a railroad
route. A secondary range of mountains, called the Coast range, dividing the waters of the
Salinas from those of the San Joaquin, extends southeast from Monte Diablo to a point south-
west from Walker's Pass ; where, in latitude 34° 30' about, it intersects with a third great range.
The latter commences at Point Conception, and extends* east-southeast to San Bernardino ; and
thence, according to recent explorations, is prolonged to the Colorado, near the junction of Bio
Gila, and forms the northeast boundary of the California desert. South of San Bernardino
commences another system of mountains, which traverses the whole length of Lower California.
These various ranges are all united by low hills and ridges that are confined to a belt, about a
degree and a half in width, bounded on the north by the parallel of 35° 15', and upon the south
by latitude 33° 45' ; and among these connecting links are to be found the few available passes
leading from the Colorado river to Los Angeles or San Francisco.

The vapors that rise from the coast are generally precipitated upon the western slopes of the
mountain ranges referred to ; and therefore, south of the parallel of 36°, there is no stream,
worthy of note, flowing from their bases eastward, save the Mojave river. This stream was
formerly supposed to empty into the Colorado, near the Mojave villages ; and, when our survey
was projected, we believed it would lead by a favorable course the whole distance from that
place to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada. It now appears, however, from the examinations
of Lieutenant Williamson — and subsequently those of Lieutenant Parke — that the Mojave river
is lost at Soda lake. Hence, the region it traverses forms a basin belonging to the same system
as those that are so celebrated further north. It is separated from the valley of Bio Colorado by
a wide granitic mass, called the Painte mountain, which seems to be a prolongation of the
Wasatch range. The slopes upon the east are so regular and smooth as to appear like a nearly
level plain. Upon the summit there are but a few crested ridges, and the topographical sketches
show passes, north and south of our line, lower than that upon which the levels were taken. It
is believed that a more extensive exploration would discover a route across this ridge, by which
the grades to Soda lake would not exceed 80 feet per mile.

The region in the vicinity of the junction of the great mountain ranges that bound the Pacific
slopes of California, within the belt above referred to, was explored by Lieutenant Williamson ;
and the passes which he surveyed are described in his report. I beg leave briefly to refer
to a few of them, as they have an important bearing upon the termination of the route under
consideration.

The best of the passes examined by Mr. Williamson are the San Gorgonio, at the junction of
the Lower California range of mountains with the San Bernardino range ; New Pass, through
the latter range ; and Taheechaypah Pass, through the ridge dividing the so-called Great Basin
from the head of Tulare valley. San Gorgonio Pass is available only to connect the Gila route
with Los Angeles or San Diego. In the prolongation of this line to San Francisco, it is neces-

8 This general sketch does not refer to the geological divisions, or strike of the mountain ranges, but simply, the
direction of the masses.

40

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

sary to thread both of the other passes mentioned. The latter — the Taheechaypah — is in latitude
35° 7', and from its summit, slopes of gentle inclination lead eastwardly across the Great Basin
to the northwest bend of the Mojave river. In this consists one of the advantages of the route
by the 35th parallel, viz : that by a single pass — the most available known — the Cordilleras of
California are surmounted, and San Francisco reached with the least practicable deviation from
a straight line. Therefore, we are enabled to adopt San Francisco as the termination of this
route, and to disregard the difficulties which would have been encountered at Cajon Pass in
obtaining an entrance to the valley of Los Angeles.

The central portion of the region embraced in this section of our route is noted for barrenness.
Some of the soil possesses the elements of fertility, but vegetable growth is prevented by the
want of moisture. As before stated, the vapor rising from the Pacific is generally precipitated
upon the western slopes of the mountain chains that traverse the State of California, nearly
parallel to the coast. At their eastern bases are found a few springs, and small streams flowing
towards the desert ; but, excepting the Mojave, they disappear at a short distance from their
sources. Between the mountains and the Colorado the climate is dry ; the winds parch the
earth, and the soil is arid. No part of our country has a wider celebrity for barrenness than
that known as the Californian desert, between Cariso creek and Rio Colorado. Until the autumn
of 1849, it was found to be a sandy and dreary jornada, without water or grass for about
80 miles, causing great suffering to the overland emigrants who attempted to cross it. Then,
suddenly, water appeared in various lagunas and channels ; and in a few weeks the central
portion of this desert was covered with large fields of luxuriant grass. The water was probably
backed up by a strong south wind upon the Gulf, and a simultaneous rise of the Colorado river
had the effect of irrigating the soil of the desert basin. At length, by evaporation and absorp-
tion, the water disappeared ; and a spot that had given evidence of remarkable fertility became
naked as before, without the faintest trace of vegetation.

There are peculiarities in the conformation of the country, near the parallel of 35°, requiring
some modification of the general characteristics above described. The sudden breaking down
of the Sierra Nevada, near that latitude, probably allows a passage for a portion of the moist
air from the coast, sufficient to nourish nutritious grasses upon the prairie slopes, and, by pre-
cipitation upon the San Bernardino range, to feed the Mojave river. Upon the elevated ridge
between Soda lake and the Colorado, there is also a deposition of moisture sufficient to sustain
a few small springs, and give sustenance to grama grass upon its broad slopes. The Mojave
river, from its source to the entrance into the basin of Soda lake, irrigates a valley which con-
tains a belt of arable soil. From that point to the western slope of the Paiute mountains,
with the exception of a narrow space in the vicinity of the lake, the country is sandy and barren,
possessing all the characteristics of a desert.

The valley of Bio Colorado affords a large extent of fertile bottom-land which may be irrigated
and cultivated . The soil is believed to be superior to that of the Rio Grande. Large patches
of it are cultivated by Indians, producing crops of maize, wheat, beans, melons, and squashes.

As artificial irrigation seems to have been but little resorted to by the natives in their system
of agriculture, it may be inferred that there is much moisture in the atmosphere, or that summer
rains are more frequent here than in New Mexico. With a suitable system of acequias, or
drains from the river, to water the soil, this valley would doubtless be as well adapted for the
production of tobacco and cotton as the bottom-lands of Rio Gila, near the Pimo villages. The
southern portion seems favorable for the production of rice and sugar.

The amount of arable land upon the Colorado, between the parallel of 35° and the junction
of Rio Gila, is roughly estimated at 700 square miles. This estimate is based, partly upon our
own observations, but mainly upon the results of Captain Sitgreaves' survey, with measure-
ments taken from his map, and is made up as follows, viz : the Mojave valley, forty miles in
length, averaging four miles in width, equal to 160 square miles ; the Chemehuevis valley,
eight miles in length, averaging four miles in width, equal to thirty-two square miles ; the

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

41

valley at the mouth of Williams' river, eight miles in length, averaging three miles in width,
equal to twenty-four square miles ; the Yuma valley, forty miles in length, averaging eight
miles in width, equal to 320 miles; the Cuchan valley, eighteen miles in length, averaging
three and a half miles in width, equal to sixty- three square miles ; the valley of Caballo en
Pelo, above the junction of the Rio Gila, ten miles in length, averaging eight miles in width,
equal to eighty square miles ; other portions of the stream being bordered by narrow belts of
good soil, sufficient, probably, to make up the amount stated above. Below the mouth of Rio
Gila the bottom-lands that may be irrigated are very extensive.

The Colorado river, at the crossing near the Mojave villages, was divided by an island into
two channels ; one about seven feet, the other ten feet in depth. From that place to the mouth
of Williams' river — a distance of fifty-two miles — the inclination of the stream is 1.6 foot per
mile ; and there is no appearance of shallows, rapids, or other obstructions to navigation. Be-
tween the mouth of Williams' river — the computed elevation of which is 356.4 feet above the
sea — and Fort Yuma, 150 miles, the slope of the valley is believed to remain nearly the same,
giving to the Colorado similar characteristics to those above described. Assuming the fall of
the river to be 1.6 foot per mile, the altitude of the river at Fort Yuma would become 116.4 feet
above the sea ; and thence to tide-water of the Gulf, 80 miles, the descent would be nearly 1.5
foot per mile. Steamboats from the Pacific have long navigated the Gulf of California and the
Colorado river to Fort Yuma, for the purpose of conveying supplies to that military post. From
all that is known of this river, there seems to be sufficient reason for believing that the same
vessels of light draught might navigate the channel for the remaining 200 miles to the Mojave
villages. The whole distance, from shore to shore, at the ferry above referred to, is about 1,800
feet — more than twice the width of the river at the upper or lower end of the Mojave valley.
Near the middle of the river, separating the stream into two channels, there is an island of sand
200 yards wide, and about a quarter of a mile in length. For the location of a bridge, however,
a more favorable point is found near Camp 132, where gentle slopes of the prairie form low bluffs
impinging upon the river. From the east, this point may be approached by the route around the
northern base of the Cerbat range ; and upon the west the line would edge along prairie slopes
to the Sacramento springs. Our trail, from Camp 134, was across the fertile bottom lands upon
the right bank of the Colorado, and thence along the base of the gravelly spur which borders
it. Camp 135 was formed upon an arm of the river, which encloses a wide marsh covered with
rushes. Upon the eastern side of the valley, parallel to our trail, there exists a broad ridge of
mountains, limiting the width of the arable soil between its base and the river to about ten
miles. The trees upon the stream are principally mezquite and cotton-wood.

A short distance above Camp 135, a valley, from the W.N.W., unites with the Colorado. It
contains the sandy bed of a stream which heretofore has been supposed to be Mojave river. Our
trail, leaving the Colorado valley near the last mentioned Camp, crossed a gravelly spur 80
feet in height, and entered the arroyo at station 2. A short range of high hills upon the north
terminates near station 3, and the valley sweeps around its western and southern bases. There
is a similar highland range upon the south about eight miles distant. Toward the west ap-
pears a broad ascending plain, without any visible crest surmounting it, but traversed by a
ravine, which the trail ascends to station 4. Here it is bordered by a few. small hills whose
bases are composed of beds of marl containing several springs of water. They are about ten
miles, in a straight line, from the Colorado, and nearly 800 feet above it.

A view of this region was sketched from the left bank of the Colorado, looking W.N.W. It
is represented in plate No. 1, and prefixed to the Itinerary. Plate No. 2, taken from the island
in the Colorado, and giving the view looking north, precedes the topographical report.'
Plate No. 3, representing the right bank of the Colorado, looking east, or E.S.E., will ac-
company the Indian report. The three landscapes differ with respect to their foregrounds, hut
the spaces between the points of view are so small that the distant scenery is scarcely all' led
thereby. They may therefore be united, for the purpose of showing the character of the moun-

42

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

tain ranges, and thus a panoramic view will be obtained, covering an angle of 180°, from the
W.N.W., by the north, to the E.S.E. No. 3 shows the plain by Which it is proposed to de-
scend to the Colorado valley from the east. No. 1 gives a view of the pass through which the
Mojave river was previously supposed to flow, and by which the profile crosses the mountain
ridge, separating the Colorado valley from Soda lake.

From the Sacramento springs the trail takes a northerly course, following prairie slopes upon
the western edge of the valley, whicb is from five to ten miles in width. Upon the left there
is a slight ridge, with several openings for sandy arroyos, perpendicular to the trail, showing
channels for the drainage of the waters of the plains beyond. Upon one of these ravines is
Camp 136, about twenty-one miles from the river, and 1,700 feet above it ; the grades being
nearly uniform. The whole country traversed since leaving the Colorado valley — except at the
springs above noticed, where are patches of grass — is nearly destitute of vegetation. Chamiza
upon the plains, and a few yuccas near the arroyos, furnish a scanty pittance of food for the
animals and fuel for camp-fires.

From Camp 136 the route continues nearly north to station 2. Upon the left is a range of
hills, 800 feet above the trail and 1,500 feet above the valley, at the foot of the wide slopes upon
the right. At station 2 this range is broken, leaving an opening towards the west two and a
half miles in width. Thence we approach the base of a cluster of sharp crested hills, from 800
to 900 feet in height, at the rocky base of which flows a rivulet called Paiute creek. Upon its
borders, near Camp 137, are patches of fertile soil, which have been cultivated by Indians, pro-
ducing corn and melons. There are cedar trees and grass upon the hill sides. The stream
flows S.E., and is probably lost in the valley before mentioned, which, sweeping around the
northeastern base of the mountain, continues south and east to the Colorado. The ascent from
Camp 136 — about 600 feet in nine miles — has been gradual, except near the entrance to the
creek, where several rough ravines were crossed.

From Camp 137 the trail ascended a tortuous ravine to the head of one of the branches of
Paiute creek, and then mounted to the crest of the ridge at station 2, about 830 feet above the
cultivated fields in the valley. From this point sketches were taken, showing a wide gap be-
tween the hills upon the left, and upon the right a low valley, three-quarters of a mile wide,
appearing to drain the waters of the plain, which lay extended towards the west, into the same
great valley that receives Paiute creek. Station B is at the western base of the ridge. From
that point the course of the trail is nearly magnetic west across a vast plain extending about
twenty miles to Camp 39, at Kock Spring. The ascent is uniform, at an inclination of about
eighty feet per mile. Grama grass abounds throughout its whole extent, and upon the sandy
arroyos, which traverse it, there are fringes of cedar trees furnishing fuel. Kock Spring issues
from a deep ravine, the sides of which are composed of ledges of sienite. A few hundred yards
below, it flows into a large valley that proceeds from the N.W. to the S.E. toward the Sacra-
mento springs. Toward the south, 15 to 30 miles distant, are noted two short ranges of
mountains ; and between them and the trail the sketches indicate a broad valley, judged to be
one thousand feet lower than the region passed over. Near the camp are several rocky hills,
covered with cedar trees, and containing good grass upon their slopes.

Leaving Rock Spring we pass around the northern base of the sienitic hill, and make a
gradual ascent of 300 feet in 3 miles, which brings us to station 5, upon the summit of the
Paiute ridge. Before us appears a gap between two elevated crests — one upon the north, the
other upon the south — and a ravine with a well-defined water-course westward. The rise to this
summit from the east is nearly uniform for 25 miles. Little grading, therefore, would be
required to construct a road of a grade from 80 to 100 feet per mile upon the natural inclination of
the surface. It would be difficult to diminish the grades, except by winding in a serpentine course
across the wide plains, so as to increase the distance. The mountains upon each side of the
pass are from one to two miles distant, 600 or 700 feet in height, and are covered with cedar
trees and a few pines. The arroyo bends between stations 5 and 6, inclining gently toward the

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

43

west. At station 6, about 2 miles west of and 40 feet below station 5, the width between bluff
banks is a quarter of a mile. From this point the ravine becomes abrupt, descending the
western slope of the mountain-ridge with a rapid declivity to a broad valley which sweeps
from the north, and turning the S.E. base of Marl hill, leads between sandy slopes to Soda
lake. From station 6 to station A, where the trail intersects the Sand-hill valley, the distance
is seven and a half miles, and the descent 1,538 feet. The crest of the mountain, however
being passed, gravelly slopes proceed from between stations 6 and 7 ; and by edging along the
foot of the crest, above stations 7 and 8, and bending to the north, this valley may be reached
several miles above station A, where the increased altitude and the natural declivity of the
prairie would enable the engineer to locate a track for a road with a grade not much exceeding
100 feet per mile. The distance thence, by the course of the valley, to Camp 42, at Soda lake,
s about 45 miles, with a descent of 2,618 feet, averaging nearly 60 feet per mile. The first
portion of this distance, however, would be steeper than that near the lake, and the maximum
would be from 90 to 100 feet per- mile.

From the crossing of Sand-hill valley the trail led over an ascending prairie to Marl Springs.
These issue from the foot of a granitic ridge, furnishing a small quantity of water at the
surface. There is grass upon the hill-sides and at a few spots upon the plains, but the region
is generally characterized by barrenness. Yucca trees and chamisa shrubs relieve its nakedness.
From the springs a valley several miles in width leads in a southerly course to Sand-hill valley.
Westward of Marl Springs there are high broken prairies, over which the trail passed. These
are rocky and nearly destitute of vegetation. Upon the north of station 8 there is a large
black mountain, beyond which appears a broad valley, parallel to the trail until opposite station
10. Beyond this station the trail turns toward the southwest, and descends a steep ravine to
Camp 141, which is in a dry gorge between two mountains, where grass was found upon
the slopes.

For three miles from Camp 141 the trail descends a gradually sloping prairie, with a declivity
of about 200 feet per mile, to the border of a broad basin of white sand. This is a perfect
desert, extending six miles to station 2. The surface is generally hard enough to bear the
weight of horses. Opposite station D, upon the left, is a ridge of hills, with drifted sand
piled upon the northwestern sides. Upon the right, seven miles distant, appears a high moun-
tain range. Between stations 1 and 2 is a rocky ridge upon the north, with bluff sides from
200 to 300 feet in height. Beyond, the hills recede, leaving a wide vista north and south,
apparently level for a great distance. At station 2 there are a few small sand-hills which lie
upon the border of a dry lake, its surface indurated with ferruginous exhalations, or encrusted
with white efflorescent salt. It extends toward the north, and is' about four miles -and a half in
width between station 2 and Camp 142.

Camp 142 is upon the western border of the lake, 1,000 feet above the level of the sea. An
abundance of rank, coarse grass grows in the vicinity, and large pools of brackish water were
obtained by turning aside the marshy sod. Upon the north-northwest, about one mile and a
half distant, there is a range of hills, upon the eastern slopes of which were Indian camp fires,
and hence, probably, springs of water. Six miles south of camp there is another range of
hills, and at a greater distance a high mountain is visible above it.

Leaving Soda lake we again entered a field of sand. It was loose, yielding to the pressure
of feet, and occasionally drifted into hillocks. Upon the north and south, many miles distant,
are ranges of high hills, seeming to enclose this desert space, which extends westward from
Soda lake to Camp 143, twelve miles, with a uniform acclivity of 18 feet per mile. Here we
first meet the flowing waters of Mojave river. At Camp 143 it is a clear and rapid rivulet. A
short distance below, upon the north of the trail, it is lost in a bed of sand.

We now ascend the banks of Mojave river and enter a canon, formed by the near approach
of two ranges of hills about 300 feet in height. Near station 1 the canon is contracted to 200
yards in width. At another narrow point, between stations 2 and 3, it is 300 yards wide

44

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

Above, to Camp 144, the valley opens, the hills assume the character of a broken mesa forma-
tion, and the bottom-lands vary from a few hundred feet to nearly a mile in width. Wherever
the stream appears flowing upon the surface, its banks are clothed with luxuriant vegetation,
consisting principally of mezquite thickets, willows, and rank grass. Between stations 4 and
6 the water sinks, and the valley is sandy and barren. There is grama grass upon some of the
hill slopes and in the ravines.

At Camp 144 there is running water, with grass and mezquite trees upon the banks. The
width of the alluvial bottoms is 700 yards. Ascending the valley, we find it bounded by low
grassy mesas from 25 to 80 feet above the stream. At station 1 the surface is dry and sandy.
Station 2 is on a spur of the table-land which impinges upon the right bank of the stream.
From station 2 to station 3 the trail crosses the river, ascends a prairie covered with luxuriant
grass, and descends to the valley again at station 4. From this point to Camp 145, three miles
and a half, the mesas recede, leaving a basin of arable soil several miles in width. A pretty
stream flows through it, bordered with cotton-wood and tornillas, and the surface is covered
with an exuberant growth of meadow grass. From this place the trail leads along the edge of
a broad mesa; and at station 1, five miles from Camp 145, it enters the valley of Mojave river,
at its intersection with the Mormon road from Great Salt Lake. The slopes are broad, and the
valley, in many places, dry and sandy, until we reach station 5. From that point to Camp
146, the bottom-lands enclosed by hills become narrow. The stream bears a larger flow of
water, and the banks are fertile.

Above Camp 146 the valley is from one to two miles in width, containing good soil and large
groves of cotton-wood trees. The river is a continuously flowing stream, containing water
sufficient to irrigate the wide bottom-lands below. At station 5 the trail turns from the valley
to cut off a large bend of the river towards the northwest ; and opposite station 6 is a break in
the mesa, indicating the entrance of a ravine, or an arroyo, from the east. This is the point
where it is proposed to leave the Mojave river, and proceed, by the route examined by Lieutenant
Williamson, to Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, and thence to San Francisco. For full descriptions of
the surveys upon that line, reference will be made to Lieutenant Williamson's report, from
which may be obtained a knowledge of the character of the country from the Mojave river
across the Great Basin, and through the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass into Tulare valley. The height
of the Mojave river at the point between Camps 146 and 147, where we propose to leave it, is
2,313 feet above the sea. The latitude of this place is 34° 53'. 5. Mr. Williamson's Dry lake
is nearly west, about thirty miles distant, at an altitude of 2,388 feet above the sea, or seventy-
five feet above the Majove river. The country between is an undulating prairie, deemed favor-
able for the location of a railroad. The width of the lake appears to be about 9.5 miles.
From the western edge of it to the stream at the entrance to Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, which
has an elevation of 3,300 feet above the sea, the distance would be 23.5 miles, in a course
slightly north of west, with an average grade of about 39 feet per mile. Thence ascending
the stream 16^ miles to the summit of the pass, the maximum natural grade is 88 feet per mile.

The following extract from Captain Humphries 's report will suffice to give an idea of the
remainder of this route to the Pacific :

"The most direct route to San Francisco from the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass will be found
through one of the passes known to exist in the mountain range separating the San Joaquin
valley from those of the Salinas river and San Jose river. The distance through them is about
ten miles ; the elevation of their summits about 600 feet. They may be reached from the
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass by passing around the head of the Tulares valley to its western side, or
by keeping on the eastern side of the Tulares valley 15 or 20 miles after crossing Kern river,
then crossing the valley ; in doing which, it will be necessary to use piling for the distance of
ten miles to make a sufficiently firm road-bed over the soft, miry, alluvial soil. The distance
to the port of San Francisco, by this route, from the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, is about 288 miles.
The average grades, except through the short pass, will be two or three feet per mile.

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

45

" The soil of the Tulares and San Joaquin valleys is well constituted for fertility, and needs
merely the proper amount of water to he highly productive. There are settlements along the
eastern side of these valleys under the mountains. The San Jose valley is one of the hest
cultivated and most populous districts of California.

" Sufficient water and fuel for working parties can he found at convenient distances on this
section, and lumher and good huilding stone at various points along the line in the mountains,
15 or 20 miles from the foot of their western slopes."

Suhsequent to the examinations previously referred to, a reconnaissance has "been made in
California hy Lieutenant Parke, of the topographical engineers, and it is understood that he
has found a highly favorahle route, leading from Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass across the Coast Kange
to a hranch of the Salinas river, and thence directly to San Francisco. His report will,
probably, give specific information upon this suhject.

It would he desirahle to construct a hranch railroad from the Mojave river to the port of Los
Angeles. The country is well adapted to the purpose, excepting the portion embraced hy the
Cajon Pass. There, a long tunnel would be required through the crest of the summit, and
grades from 100 to 150 feet per mile along the ravirje in which the Cajon creek flows, or
expensive cutting and filling across spurs of the mountain slopes. For a road of secondary
importance, however, it might be deemed advisahle to adopt the surface grades along the creek,
and, perhaps, use stationary power to ascend the summit from the Pacific side. Upon those
conditions the expense for constructing the road would he hrought within very moderate limits.

GENERAL REMARKS UPON SPECIAL SUBJECTS.

TIMBER AND FUEL.

These necessary requisites for a railroad are found in great abundance upon several portions
of our route. The State of Arkansas and the Choctaw Territory, as far as Shawneetown, abound
in superb forests, and contain extensive beds of coal. Westward from Shawneetown, we have
live-oak and black-jack in the Cross Timbers, and, in the valleys of the streams, as far as to
the head- waters of the Washita, there is a growth of larger timber. Thence to the Pecos but
few well wooded valleys occur, and the prairies which bound them are generally destitute of
trees. Valley river and Shady creek contain groves of timber, and the Canadian is generally
bordered by cotton-wood trees. Upon the slopes along the base of the Llano bluffs, near the
head-waters of Tucumcari creek, and thence westwardly to Hurrah creek, there are extensive
tracts covered with cedars affording a large supply of fuel. As we approach Anton Chico,
cedars again appear, and upon the mountains,, a short distance north, there are pine trees, such
as are used throughout New Mexico for lumber. Between Rio Pecos and Rio Grande we
pass through forests which afford, at convenient distances, both timber and fuel. A vein of coal
crops out in the San Antonio canon, but it is doubtful whether it can be obtained there in suffi-
cient quantities to enable us to depend upon it for a supply of fuel. The Douglas' spruce and
other firs, which cover the slopes of the Zandia mountains, would suffice for the requirements at
this place.

Wood is scarce in the valley of Rio Grande. Fuel for the inhabitants is usually obtained from
the Rio Puerco, where cedar thickets again appear. Near the latter stream good coal has been
found, and there are indications of it further west, but the specimens obtained are said to be
of inferior quality. The geologist supposes that the quantity which exists there is small.

Forests of stately pines cover the slopes of the Sierra Madre, furnishing an unfailing supply
of timber and fuel.

Beyond Zuiii, a region of country, some thirty or forty miles in extent, is covered with a thick
growth of cedars. Thence, fuel is scarce, for nearly an equal space, to Flax river. That stream
rises in the well-wooded region of the Mogoyon mountains ; and, by rafts during spring freshets,
a supply of timber and fuel might doubtless be obtained. The banks of the river are skirted with
cotton-wood trees. Leaving the valley, we immediately enter among small cedars, which increase
in size and numbers, until reaching the base of the San Francisco mountains, they intermingle
with, and finally give place to, immense forests of stately pines and Douglas' spruce. No finer
timber grows in the interior of our continent. For 130 miles there is a constant succession of
these forests. They disappear upon the head-waters of Williams' river. In the valley of that
stream, as well as upon Rio Colorado, there are trees of cotton-wood and mezquite, which fre-
quently form large and beautiful groves. They might prove useful in affording material for a
primary supply of railroad ties. Among the ravines are a few cedars. Leaving Rio Colorado,
we traverse a region for 110 miles almost destitute of fuel. Thence, the valley of Mojave river,
sparsely fringed with mezquites and small cotton-woods, leads to the well- wooded region of the
California mountains. By the direct route from the bend of the Mojave river across the basin to
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, there is a space of above sixty-three miles of prairie, which would
receive its supply of fuel and timber from the nearest points of the Sierra Nevada.

DESCRIPTION OP THE COUNTRY.

47

WATER.

The valley of the Canadian river is believed to contain springs and streams sufficient for rail-
road uses ; common wells only at certain points being necessary to secure a permanent supply of
water. From the head of Pajarito creek to Bio Pecos, springs and rivulets occur at convenient
distances. From Kio Pecos to Rio Grande, artificial means would be required to preserve a
perpetual supply of water in Canon Blanco, and possibly at the Laguna. This object could be
accomplished by an artesian well, or by a large tank at Camp 55, and an artificial reservoir at
the Laguna. Thence to Isleta, the water stations that could be placed upon Bio San Antonio
would probably be sufficient.

From Bio Grande to Bio Pecos, a distance of about 23 miles, the route crosses a waterless
mesa. The latter stream contains running water for a portion of the year, and then sinks below
the surface. A reservoir, or artesian well, would be required in its vicinity. Thence,, up the
valley of Bio San Jose to Campbell's Pass, in the Sierra Madre, there is sufficient water at mod-
erate distances. From the fine spring of Agua Azul to Carrizo — a laguna which forms one
of the head branches of Bio Puerco of the west — the distance is 25 miles. Thence, 10 miles
lead to Ojo del Oso, another tributary of the same stream, which waters a fertile basin in the
pass ; and at the same distance beyond is found Salt Spring with brackish water. These springs
flow down the Bio Puerco of the west, which is dry for a part of the year. It would be neces-
sary to construct tanks in its valley, or common wells, to obtain a permanent supply of water
at proper points. Near the lower portion of it, there are springs and tributary rivulets. Flax
river is a permanent stream. Leaving it at Camp 82, we then find water at Canon Diablo,
Cosnino Caves, San Francisco Springs, and Leroux's Spring, the greatest distance between
being about 20 miles. Other permanent springs can probably be found at intermediate points.
From Leroux's Spring to New Year's Spring, the distance is about 23 miles. To obtain water
between, tanks would be required. The route further south, previously suggested for examina-
tion, down the valley of Bio Verde, and across branches to Val de China, would doubtless prove
better in every respect, and afford abundance of water. Partridge creek contains large pools of
water, and is probably never dry. Pueblo creek is a flowing stream, from springs at its source
in Aztec Pass. From near the same point commences a branch of Williams' river, which flows
to the Colorado. No difficulty would be found in obtaining sufficient water at suitable points
along its valley. The route now proposed, however, leaves that stream, and descends a branch
called White Cliff creek, which also contains running water, to its junction with Big Sandy.
Leaving the valley at Camp 111 to the left, and passing westward, the line crosses wide sloping
prairies for 80 miles to the Colorado, near the Mojave villages. The Indians told us of two or
three springs upon the way, and it is possible that water could be otained at other points, upon
the mountain slopes, by artesian wells. A sufficient supply of water could undoubtedly be
obtained by the construction of tanks. Ten miles west of the Colorado are the Little Springs.
Painte creek is 21 miles beyond. Thence to Bock Spring is 20 miles ; and Mar] Spring is 20
miles beyond. The greatest jornada encountered is from Marl Springs to Soda lake, a distance
of about 30 miles. It could, doubtless, be much diminished, by digging a well of moderate
depth upon the eastern border of the lake. Many of the springs referred to are believed to be
permanent. Several points of the crest of this mountain chain are above 5,000 feet in height,
and it is evident that considerable precipitation of moisture takes place upon them. By the
construction of reservoirs, sufficient water might be obtained for railway purposes. From Soda
lake, it is a distance of 12 miles to the point where we found the flowing water of Mojave river.
This stream now furnishes an abundance of water, until we reach its northwest bend, where the
line leaves it to join the survey of Lieutenant Williamson, passing across the basin, through
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, and to San Francisco. From Mr. Williamson's examinations, U seems
probable that springs may be found at several points within the basin. It is the opinion of Mr.

48

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

Blake, the geologist, that, within this region, artesian horings may he resorted to with success.
Within Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass there is water, and the remainder of the route to San Francisco
is reported favorable in this respect.

SNOW.

Upon the parallel of 35° snow cannot prove an obstruction to a railway. From Memphis to
Eio Pecos, snow-storms rarely occur. At Fort Smith, as has been shown, but one was noted in
the winter of 1852, and that covered the ground to the depth of only two inches. From thence
to the Pecos, three or four inches may occasionally fall, but must rapidly be absorbed by the
warm porous soil. It is not likely that the surface would remain whitened for many days
during the year. Passing the ranges of the Eocky mountains east, and the Sierra Madre
west, of the Eio Grande, storms are said to be more frequent, snow sometimes covering the
ground to the depth of one or two feet ; but here, too, it quickly melts, and forms no obstruction
to travellers. The latter range, which we passed late in November, was entirely bare. The
first snow seen was in December, glistening upon the distant peaks of Sierra Mogoyon. During
the latter part of December and the first of January we were at the base of the San Francisco
mountains, where more was found than upon any other portion of the route. It scarcely ever
exceeded eight inches in depth, was nowhere drifted, and formed little obstruction to our march.
We learned, nevertheless, that the season was unusually severe, and the amount of snow greater
than had been seen at that place during several previous winters. On the 18th of January,
when upon a reconnaissance in the Aztec range, there was a fall of snow several inches in
depth. Four days after, we were again at the same spot, and it had nearly disappeared — from
the southern slopes entirely. Leaving this range, we saw no more indications of snow, except
near a few mountain summits. Without doubt, between Aztec Pass and California, it may
sometimes fall to the depth of half a foot, but in so mild a climate it soon melts away. At
Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, for a limited season, there may be a greater abundance of snow ; but prob-
ably not enough to make a serious inconvenience to the use of a railroad passing through it.

CLIMATE.

One of the most important of the advantages claimed for this route is the pleasant and salu-
brious climate of the region through which it passes. There is no long series of parched plains,
rendering the summer heat intolerable, nor do those dreaded winds termed " northers" reach
this latitude. The mountain ranges that are crossed are not blocked up in winter by ice and
snow sufficient to interrupt travel. From July to January, and for the whole year, this line
may be traversed in safety.

The different portions of our survey were performed at such seasons as to enable us to make
observations upon the most unfavorable characteristics of the climate. In August we were upon
the comparatively low and arid plains upon the head-waters of the Canadian, and near the
Llano Estacado. During the winter months we passed over the elevated region and through
the mountain passes between Eio Grande and Eio Colorado. These observations may be found
in Appendix H. They will be briefly alluded to in this place, although worthy of careful
examination .

Judging from the material gathered upon the survey, the climate of the valley of Eio Grande
is remarkably mild. One hundred and sixty-nine thermometric observations, taken there
during the month of October, give 62°. 2 for the mean temperature of that month. The highest
temperature recorded is 100°. 6 ; the lowest 25°.

In November we passed from Eio Grande to Zuni, crossing the Sierra Madre. The mean
temperature for that month is 52°. 5 ; the maximum 82°. 4, the minimum 23°.

During the month of December we were between Zuni and the pass of the San Francisco

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

49

mountains ; and, from one hundred and fifty-five observations, had a mean temperature of
41°. 4, with a maximum of 73°. 3, and a minimum of 15°.*

Upon the first of January we were at the highest point of our route, and during the month
travelled to White Cliff creek. One hundred and twenty-six observations give for the mean
temperature of January, in this region, 40° ; the maximum being 73°. 9, and the minimum 21°.

During the month of February observations were taken between White Cliff creek and the
Mojave villages, in the valley of Rio Colorado. The mean temperature, from one hundred and
seven observations, is 57°. 4 ; the maximum is 80°, and the minimum 31°.

Although, as may be perceived, a few of the early morning observations indicated a consid-
erable degree of cold, the sun was always warm, creating a visible effect upon the snow whenever
it appeared.

In relation to this subject, I would refer to the hygrometrical tables of Appendix H, and also
to the accompanying climatological map, with remarks prepared by L. Blodget, esq., from
observations collected by the Smithsonian Institute, in connexion with those made during the
survey. It will be perceived that the parallel of 35° is particularly favored by rain. The
valley of the Canadian, the Zuni region, the vicinity of the San Francisco mountains, and the
Aquarius range have evidently a large supply of precipitated moisture. The arid regions between
the Mississippi and the Pacific are here contracted to their narrowest limit.

Rough estimate of the amount of woodland,^ prairie, arable soil, &c., upon the belt of country 15
miles in width upon each side of the line from Fort Smith to Rio Mojave.

Section.

Distance in
miles.

No. of sq. miles
in belt 30 miles
wide.

Character.

125

3,750

■ Woodland, £ —

3.000

sq. miles,
do.
do.
do.

Cultivable soil, nj —

Prairie and pasture land, \. =
Rocky hills, fa —

2,250
937
375

From Shawneetown to head of Washita
river.

185

5,550

Woodland, f —

Cultivable soil, §■ —

Barren, -fa —

Prairie and pasture land, f$ ==

2,220
2,220
138
138
3,052

do.
do.
do.
do.
do.

From head of Washita river to mouth of
Tucumcari creek.

210

6,300

Woodland, fa- —

Cultivable soil, -fa- —

Rocky hills, -3V —

Barren, fa —

Prairie and pasture land, —

70
420
210
210
5,460

do.

do.
do.
do.
do.

From mouth of Tucumcari to head of
Pajarito creek.

70

2, 100

Woodland, £ —

Cultivable soil, £ —

Rocky hills, fa —

Prairie and pasture land, -fa —

420
420
210
1,470

do.

do.
do.
do.

From head of Pajarito creek to Anton
Chico.

35

1,050

Woodland, fa —

Cultivable soil, fa —

Rocky hills, £ —

Prairie and pasture land, -fa =z

105
35
210
735

do.

do.
do.
do.

* Upon one of the reconnoissances a lower temperature was noted. I have not the observations before me, but I think
near the San Francisco mountains the thermometer read as low as 8° Fahrenheit.

fin the term "woodland" are included all those portions of the country covered with trees useful for timber or fuel.
"Prairie and pasture land" refers to plains, and slopes, and valleys, which are generally covered with grass.

In

50

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

EOUGH ESTIMATE— Continued.

Section.

From Anton Chico to Eio Grande .

Distance in
miles.

85

From Eio Grande to Campbell's Pass of 95
the Sierra Madre.

From Campbell's Pass to Flax river.

From Flax river to San Francisco Pass...

From San Francisco Pass to Aztec Pass.

From Aztec Pass to mouth of White Cliff
creek.

From mouth of White Cliff creek to
Rio Colorado.

From Rio Colorado to Soda lake.

From Soda lake to northwest bend of
Rio Mojave.

110

100

73

42

60

84

61

No. of sq. miles
in belt 30 miles
wide.

2,550

2,850

3,300

3,000

2,190

1, 260

1,800

2,520

1,830

Character.

Woodland, £ = 510sq. miles.

Cultivable soil, ^s = 170 do.

Rocky hills, £ = 510 do.

Prairie and pasture land, £ = 1,530 do.

Woodland, -fa. — 285 do.

Cultivable soil, -fa == 190 do.

Rocky hills, -fo = 285 do.

Prairie and pasture, j% = 2, 280 do.

Woodland, -fa = 330 do.

Cultivable soil, = 110 do.

Rocky hills, — 330 do.

Prairie and pasture, -fij — 2, 640 do.

Woodland, I = 600 do.

Cultivable soil, ^ — 200 do.

Rocky hills, -fo = 300 do.

Prairie and pasture land, — 2, 100 do.

Woodland, f == 876 do.

Cultivable soil, = 219 do.

Rocky hills, & = 109 do.

Prairie and pasture land, ^ J = 1, 204 do.

Woodland, ^ = 84 do.

Cultivable soil, -fe =: 84 do.

Rocky hills, = 84 do.

Prairie and pasture land, |f = 1, 092 do.

Woodland, -fa =: 18 do.

Cultivable soil, -j^ = 150 do.

Rocky hills, J„ = 90 do.

Prairie and pasture land, -fifo — 1, 692 do.

Woodland, ^ = 10 do.

Cultivable soil, 5^ = 10 do.

Rocky hills, ^ = 50 do.

Sandy desert, ^ = 126 do.

Prairie and pasture land, = 2, 335 do.

Woodland, = 7 do.

Cultivable soil, = 61 do.

Rocky hills, = 36 do.

Sandy desert, -fa.. = 61 do.

Prairie and pasture land, £ J-J = 1,726 do.

MINER ALOGICAL RESOURCES.

For full and specific information upon this subject, I beg leave to refer to the geological
reports. The following brief remarks are intended to convey a few general ideas regarding the
value of the mineralogical outcrops of the country in relation to the construction and support of
a railway. Many of the details here submitted were compiled from the Eesume of Mr. Marcou,
geologist and mining engineer to the expedition. In some cases its concise language has been
retained. Generally, the remarks have been condensed, and facts derived from other sources
have been added.

The alluvium of the great valley of the Mississippi extends along the banks of the river
Arkansas as far west as Little Eock. This place is situated upon a slaty hill, at the commence-
ment of a metamorphic ridge of mountains. Upon the river's banks, a short distance above

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

51

the city, are found sandstones and limestones of the carboniferous period. " Here begins the
fine coal-basin of Arkansas which" * * * "our survey traversed from the vicinity of
Little Rock to Delaware Mount, a distance of several hundred miles; coal being found almost
everywhere from Petit Jean mountain to Coal creek and the Shawnee mountains. It forms a
vast reservoir for the sustenance of industry and commerce along tbe whole line of the Pacific
railroad. This carboniferous basin contains, in addition to the coal, an abundance of excellent
sandstone for building bridges and embankments, good beds of limestone for the manufacture of
lime, and also iron. Artesian wells will give an immense supply of water for agricultural and
other uses, and it may be predicted that this region will be one of the richest portions in the
southern States of the Union."

From the Shawnee village to Little river there is excellent sandstone. Delaware Mount is
formed of upheaved beds of carboniferous limestone, affording building material and quick-lime.
After passing this ridge, we leave the carboniferous group and enter upon the new red sand-
stone or trias. This formation is four or five thousand feet in thickness, and its various strata
are traversed upon our route westward, except among the mountains where we rise above it, for
more than one thousand miles. Mr. Marcou establishes, provisionally, "three principal divisions
in these rocks." The lower group is composed of red and blue clay at the base, and red sand-
stone above. It is some two or three thousand feet in thickness, and forms the surface of the
country from Topofki creek to Rock Mary. In consequence of the prevalence of clayey soil,
nearly the whole of this region is well watered by numerous rivulets, producing a bountiful
fertility of forest and meadow. The sandstone upon this section is frequently coarse and
friable. Quarries of good building stone may occasionally be found, though it is probable that
bricks formed of the argillaceous clays would afford an economical and more durable material
for masonry.

" The second group, or middle division" of the trias, "is formed of beds of red clay, con-
taining very often immense masses of white gypsum, amorphous, furrowed with veins of crys-
tallized gypsum, with interposition of strata of magnesian or dolomitic limestone, and frequently
beds of rock-salt or saliferous clay are found superposed upon the gypsum. The height of the
beds in this middle group is about fifteen hundred feet. We met with it on our route from
Rock Mary to the Arroyo Bonito or Shady creek, with the exception of two points, where the
direction taken by our expedition, near Camp No. 31, crossed strata of neocomien, and at Ante-
lope Hills whitish-gray sandstone, which belongs to the upper division of the trias." The
mineralogical characteristics of the group are of considerable importance. The sandstones upon
this section occasionally exist in isolated masses, and appear like lofty colonades of some
ruined city, and in many places have sufficient hardness and durability for embankments and
bridges ; the dolomite produces an excellent hydraulic lime ; the gypsum exists in vast quan-
tities, and may become valuable for exportation, and the salt will be useful for the inhabitants
of this region. With the exception of the well-watered and wooded valleys leading to the
Washita, the soil of this region is deficient in clay. Hence, the numerous arroyos leading to
the Canadian, and the Canadian valley itself, are sandy ; and many of the little rivulets,
started into existence by occasional heavy rains, soon become dry from the percolation of the
water to the substrata of clay some feet below the surface. By common wells this reservoir
of water could easily be reached, and made available for the purposes of a railroad, or for set-
tlements. Nature has planted upon the sandy borders of the streams of this region the plum
and the grape. The soil seems admirably adapted to their growth.

"The third division, or upper group" of the trias, " is subdivided again into two parts.
The lower is formed of thick beds of whitish-gray sandstone, often rose-colored, and even red ; ami
the upper consists of beds of sandy calcareous clay of very brilliant colors — violet, red, yellow,
and white — in a word, of variegated marls," like "the marnes irisees of Franco, or the varir-
gated marls of England." " These rocks having very little consistency, have been carried away
almost everywhere by denudations. It is only where they are capped by the jurassic strata that

52

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

they cart he observed. The sandstone of this third division is very much developed, with rather
an indistinct and very massive stratification. Its thickness is one thousand feet, while the
variegated marls are only four or five hundred feet thick ; making a whole of fifteen hundred
feet for the upper group of trias. Upon our route this sandstone forms the summits of the
table-lands or mesas, which extend on each bank of the Canadian river from Antelope Hills to
the Llano Estacado ; then it forms the bottom of the valleys from Rocky Dell creek and the
Plaza Larga to Anton Chico and the Canon Blanco." The fertility of the great basin lying
between the bluffs of the Llano Estacado and the Canadian, and extending nearly from Rocky
Dell creek across Plaza Larga, and thence to the head of Pajarito and Cuerbito creeks, may be
ascribed to the prevalence of a sandy calcareous clay, belonging to the strata of the variegated
marls, and to the streamlets that issue from the base of the Llano bluffs. Other portions of this
region, except upon the borders of rivulets or springs, are comparatively barren.

The Llano Estacado is composed principally of a more recent formation which, by Mr.
Marcou, is called jurassic. The summit of the first steppe of it, which we crossed, consists of
a compact white limestone, resting upon white sandstone. The former will furnish lime, the
latter may be used for masonry. Near Tucumcari mount the mesas are capped by superior
strata of the same formation, consisting of blue clay, yellowish sandstone, and, at the summit,
a compact, white, silicious limestone. " This formation is not limited to the Llano, but it forms
the summits of all the plateaux that are seen to the north, in the direction of the Canadian
river, and between the Canadian and the Raton mountains, as well as the majority of the
mesas which extend from the Rio Pecos to the foot of the Sierra de Sandia. Our survey has
also met with it on the other side of the Rio Puerco, forming, with volcanic lava, almost the
whole road between Covero and the Sierra Madre, and finally, between Inscription Rock and
the Pueblo of Zufii, where it again forms mesas, which extend in the direction of Fort Defiance
and the Canon de Chelly." Near several of the points above mentioned "there are beds of
bituminous coal in the clay, but only three or four inches thick, so that probably they would
not be rich enough to be successfully worked."

' In the canon of San Antonio "the trias is met with again." It is here "upheaved and
dislocated, the strata dipping to the east," and in the descent of the creek " gypsum, dolomite,
sandstone, and red clay," are successively exposed. Near Tijeras, upon both sides of the
gorge that has been cut through the Rocky mountains, " black schistose clay is seen, belonging
to the coal measures; then grayish-blue limestone," containing fossils characteristic of the
mountain limestone or lower carboniferous. Mr. Marcou remarks that "the presence of the
black slate between the mountain limestone and the red clay of the trias indicates the existence
of beds of coal on several points of the Rocky mountains;" and the inhabitants of New Mexico,
he says, pointed out to him "beds of bituminous coal belonging, without any doubt, to the
rocks of the coal measures." Similar indications of coal are found at various points of the
Zandia and Santa Fe mountains, and at the village of Pecos. Several intelligent citizens of
the Territory state that coal has been discovered in considerable quantities near Rio Puerco and
in the vicinity of Cibolleta, and the quality was such as to cause it to be used in blacksmiths'
shops. Some very fine specimens sent to us by Captain Ewell, of the dragoons, have been
noticed in a preceding portion of this report. There can be no doubt of its good quality, and
it is believed to be sufficiently abundant to afford a limited supply of light and economical fuel
for railway engines, or for the uses of the inhabitants.

The other mineralogical resources of this Territory have, perhaps, been sufficiently referred
to in the Itinerary. When it is admitted that the mountains extending from the Sierra de Oro,
near Tuerto, to the Sierra de los Organos, near Las Cruces, contain mines of gold and silver
that have been successfully worked for centuries by rude and unskilful processes, no one can
doubt that a railroad to the Atlantic would cause the mining resources of this region to be
developed, and that the advantages afforded would be reciprocal. Placers and mines are known
to cover regions extending from the mountains of Taos to El Paso ; and, judging from the

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.

5

character of the country, the specimens collected, the reports of early Spanish explorers, and
from Mexican traditions, it seems probable that large amounts of treasure exist at Gran Quivira,
among the San Francisco mountains, in the Aztec range, and upon Williams' river. The
salineras or salt-pits upon the plains between Eio Pecos and the Del Norte will become another
important source of mineral wealth to the settlers of New Mexico.

Leaving the coal-bearing strata that crop out upon the eastern slope of the Zandia range,
we find the centre of the line of dislocation of the Rocky mountains, where exist the rich
auriferous veins already referred to, composed of serpentine and granitic rocks, affording a good
building material. We then enter the valley of the Rio Grande where the granite is covered
by drift and alluvium. From the Del Norte to the volcanic peak of San Mateo there exist
white, friable sandstones of the trias or jurassic formation. Some portions of the cliffs which
bound the edges of the mesas have considerable hardness, and, by quarrying, a good material
for embankments, bridges, and other constructions, could be obtained in the vicinity of the
route. As we approach San Mateo, streams of disintegrating lava are frequently found in the
valleys. " Near the culminating point of the Sierra Madre the trias is replaced by the car-
boniferous limestone ; then for a distance of twelve miles the rocks are eruptive granite,
gneiss, and mica schist. Beyond, on the western declivity of the Sierra, comes the carbonifer-
ous again, the beds of the trias, and finally the white and yellow sandstones of the jurassic,
with streams of volcanic lava in the valleys. Inscription Rock, and the whole mesa that
extends nearly to Zufii, are formed of the jurassic rocks." The vertical faces of these cliffs are
covered with ancient Indian or early Spanish inscriptions. From the dates of the latter, it
appears that more than two centuries have elapsed since they were executed, and the crumbling
of the rock from atmospheric influences has not caused them to be effaced. This fact affords a
proof of the value of the jurassic sandstones for a building material. They may be easily cut
into blocks of the required dimensions, and in this climate, where the exfoliation by frosts is
exceedingly slight, it would prove a durable material for railroad constructions. In many locali-
ties upon the line, we have, as before stated, rocks of the primitive or metamorphic formations ;
but so much of the route is bordered by sandstones that the above record of their durability
becomes highly important with regard to their fitness for railway purposes.

The triassic rocks extend from Zuhi to the volcanic peaks near the head- waters of Rio Verde ;
containing sandstone and red clay, with dolomite and gypsum. Thence across the Aztec range
to White Cliff creek, the sedimentary and granitic rocks have in many places been covered by
lava and basalt ; but among the former, we find " magnesian limestone, the sandstone of the
coal measures, and the carboniferous limestone." In the vicinity of Partridge creek, there are
indications of coal. This region is believed to be rich in precious metals ; but, being traversed
by us in mid-winter, when a thin sheet of snow covered a great portion of the surface, our
examinations with regard to this subject were imperfect.

Williams' river cuts through low mountain chains of eruptive or metamorphic rocks, in which
Mr. Marcou found " several veins of argentiferous lead." The region more directly west, from
White Cliff creek to the Mojave villages, is mostly covered with diluvial drift, forming a smooth
surface, and plains of gentle inclination. Granitic rocks are exposed upon the mountain ranges
that lie upon the north. West of the Colorado, the Paiute mountains are crossed, where sienitic
granite is found alternating with sandstones and limestones. The little canon on the Mojave
river will probably afford good quarries of stone.

"In the Cajon Pass," were discovered " sienite, trap, and serpentine, exactly similar to
those found between Rough and Ready, Grass Valley, and Nevada City, and which contain the
veins of auriferous quartz." As specimens were obtained at Los Angeles "very rich in gold,
coming from the Cajon Pass, it is more than probable that this point will one day be one of the
richest places in California."

"In an economical point of view," continues Mr. Marco n, " the eruptive rocks, which form
almost the whole country between Cactus Pass and the Cajon Pass, will furnish excellent mute-

54

REMARKS UPON THE PROFILE.

rials for the construction of bridges, roads, and houses ; there are also very beautiful marbles, red
porphyry, and especially, I think, will be found there, mines rich in silver and gold."

Having reached the foot of the Pacific slope of the mountains, the route to Los Angeles and
San Pedro passes over an alluvial soil. Quarries of stone may be obtained upon the mountain
slopes, not far distant from the trail.

Between Los Angeles and San Diego — but near the latter place — there are veins of coal.
They were first discovered, I believe, by Captain Warner, of the topographical engineers,
while making examinations of this country, in 1848. When I visited the place in 1850, several
veins were found upon the surface, from an inch to an inch and a half in thickness, which
afforded specimens of coal believed to be moderately good. Shafts had been dug, but aban-
doned on account of the small quantity of mineral obtained. Lately, it has been stated* that
"a bed of good coal, sufficiently thick for working purposes, has been opened. A shaft has
also been run down, piercing several small strata from 16 to 20 inches thick." Bitumen also
is found in considerable quantities upon the coast. Near Los Angeles, there are large pits of
petroleum, which will doubtless prove to be of some value as an article of commerce.

THE PROFILE.

After it has been determined that the natural resources of a country are of such a character
as to afford facilities for the construction of a railway ; that an adequate portion of the adjacent
territory is susceptible of cultivation, and suitable for settlement ; that materials for construction
can be procured within the requisite distances, and permanent supplies of fuel and water insured
at necessary points, — there remains the question of grade : 1st, as regards practicability ; and
2d, economy. An examination of the country with the usual reconnoitring instruments — ascer-
taining the positions and heights of various points at considerable distances from each other —
will, generally, be sufficient to determine the former. For the latter would be required a care-
ful and minute survey of the whole line. Hence, in order to form an idea of the comparative
advantages of different routes, general profiles are insufficient. The stations where altitudes
are taken being at long intervals apart, the differences of altitude of these stations may be small ;
and, supposing that they can be connected by a uniform grade, a route represented may appear
favorable ; yet the intermediate minor ascents and descents may be so numerous and difficult, and
the amount of cutting and filling required so great, that, where the line is of great length, the
cost of the construction of a railroad would exceed practicable limits. The general profile of an-
other route may present greater ascents and descents, and heavier grades ; while .the surface of the
ground between the barometric stations is smooth, and the slopes are continuous and uniform}
so that the cost of grading would be vastly less in the latter case than in the former. To form,
therefore, a satisfactory conclusion in regard to the advantages of any proposed line, there is
required more detailed information in regard to its topography than can be gathered from a
profile showing only the grand general slopes, and the aggregate of their ascents and descents.

The country to be explored was of such extent, and the time so limited, that the field opera-
tions were necessarily hurried, and devoid of that accuracy which would have been desirable.
In order, however, to give to our operations as nearly as possible the character of a survey, very
numerous and frequent observations were made to determine the elevations and depressions
along the line, and two complete sets of field sketches taken : the one exhibiting the general
features of the country, and the other the special topography in the vicinity of the route
traversed. From these have been constructed a series of topographical map3, on a scale of
6"u o o o) delineating in detail a considerable portion of the profile trace. As the value of these
maps depends upon the correctness of the altitudes given, it will be necessary to allude more
fully to the method by which they were obtained.

0 See Railroad Record, page 274.

WEIGHT OF ATMOSPHERIC COLUMN — TENSION OF VAPOR.

55

The altitude of each camp is determined from a series of ohservations with mercurial barome-
ters. The profile of each day's march is deduced from single observations, made with mercurial
or aneroid barometers, at points where decided changes of elevation or depression occurred. The
aneroid, when in use, was compared with the mercurial at every third hour during the day ;
from which comparison its error was determined.

The formula for the reduction of the observations have been strictly applied in accordance
with the established rules. These are believed to have produced satisfactory results, excepting
upon certain points, which will be stated in the course of these remarks. The first relates to a
constant difference between the normal condition of the atmosphere upon the sea-coast and in
the interior of the continent, with regard to the force of vapor. By a reference to the psychro-
metric tables it will be perceived, that at Beaverstown, in the Choctaw country, where our
hygrometric observations were commenced, the mean elastic force of the vapor contained in the
atmosphere was, by measurement, 17.1 millimetres, equal to 0.674 of an inch. This force was
undoubtedly exerted upon the barometer at that place, in addition to the weight of the atmo-
spheric column of dry air. Upon the Rocky mountains, east, and Sierra Madre, west of the
Bio Grande — at Camps 56 and 67 — the force of vapor measured from three to three and a half
millimetres ; or, at a mean, 0.126 of an inch. Therefore, to obtain the true differences between
the weights of the atmospheric columns at the points referred to, it would be necessary to correct
each barometer reading by the force of vapor known to be exerted upon it. The effect of such a
correction, applied to our barometric observations, would be to diminish the computed altitudes,
upon the most elevated parts of our survey, by nearly 600 feet ;* which would greatly improve

6 Upon the acknowledged principle that the vapor of water follows the same law as gases — viz : that one acts as a va-
cuum to another — it seems evident that the tension of vapor in the atmosphere must be a force exerted in addition to the
gaseous pressure ; and as the barometer measures the sum of the two forces, if either be known, it should be deducted
from the barometric pressure to obtain the other. A distinguished meteorologist has suggested that a portion of the at-
mospheric column may be removed laterally, and replaced by the vapor of water, which, being a lighter fluid, may tend
to neutralize, by diminished weight, the effect of increased elastic force. For example : when there exist surface currents
of wind, highly charged with moisture, the heavy stratum of dry air is then replaced by a moist and light one ; and, con-
sequently, although the elastic force of vapor may have increased, the diminished pressure of the atmosphere effects a
compensation, and the barometer does not rise. An occurrence of this kind would, I believe, form an exception to the
general rule. At all events, it could not be applicable to a case like that in question, where a comparison is made be-
tween places far distant from each other, at which the normal conditions of the atmosphere are essentially different. The
more I have examined the subject, the stronger has become my conviction that the barometric pressure at each point
should have been divested of the force of vapor, and the weight of dry air alone used in the determination of differences
of altitudes. However, in deference to the high authority of doubts that have been expressed regarding its propriety, I
have refrained from making those corrections which would have so greatly modified and improved the profile of our route.

The following extract from a report of Lieutenant Colonel Sabine, R. A., " on some points in the meteorology of Bom-
bay," discovered by me as this paper was about to be submitted to the department, has a direct bearing upon the subject
under consideration :

" In concluding this communication, I beg respectfully to submit to the consideration of the eminent meteorologists
here present, that it is very important towards the progress of this science that the propriety (in such discussions as tin-
present) of separating the effect of the two elastic forces which are considered to unite in forming the barometric pressure,
be speedily admitted or disproved. The very remarkable fact recently brought to our notice by Sir James Ross, as one of
the results of his memorable voyage, that the mean height of the barometer is full an inch less in the latitude of 75° S.
than in the tropics, and that it diminishes progressively from the tropics to the high latitudes, presses the consideration
of this point upon our notice ; for it is either explained wholly or in greater part by the diminution of the vapor constitu-
ent in the higher latitudes, which diminution appears nearly to correspond throughout to the decrease of barometric pres-
sure observed by Sir James Ross ; or it is a fact unexplained, and I believe hitherto unattempted to be explaine I, on anj
other hypothesis, and of so startling a character as to call for immediate attention.

" If, by deducting the tension of the vapor from the barometric pressure, we do indeed obtain a true measure of the
pressure of the gaseous portion of the atmosphere, the variations of the mean annual gaseous pressure, which w ill thus be
obtained in different parts of the globe, and the differences of pressure in different seasons at individual stations, may be
expected to throw a much clearer light than we have hitherto possessed on those great serial currents which owe their
origin to variations of temperature proceeding partly from the different angles of inclination at which the sun's rays are
received, and partly from the nature and configuration of the material bodies at the surface of the earth ; and a Bold of
research appears to be thus opened, by which our knowledge of both the persistent and the periodical disturbances of the
equilibrium of the atmosphere may be greatly extended."

56

DIURNAL OSCILLATIONS — ABNORMAL CHANGES.

the appearance of the profile of the line. In conformity, however, with the practice of meteo-
rologists, this element of variable pressure has not been taken into account. All the data upon
which it depends are submitted ; and when scientific investigations, that are now in progress,
have sufficiently tested the subject, the error due to the variations in tension of vapor may be
determined, and the altitude of each station properly reduced.

The corrections applied to the original record of the barometric observations are as follows :

1st. For relative expansion of column of mercury and scale due to variations of heat, in order
to reduce the observations to an equivalent, at a temperature of 32° Fahrenheit. For this
purpose, Professor Gruiot's excellent tables were used.

2d. For constant error of barometer, or the difference between the zero point of its scale and
that of the standard with which it was compared. The errors of the various barometers used
are shown in the Appendix.

3d. For oscillations of the barometric column, due to diurnal variations of atmospheric pres-
sure, and determined by hourly observations, taken for several consecutive clays, at various points
upon the route. The results obtained for this correction are also shown in the appendix.

All barometric oscillations seem to be due primarily to variations of temperature. Let the
atmosphere be placed in equilibrio, and everywhere, at equal elevations, the columns of mercury
supported would be the same. But as soon as one portion of the aarial fluid is warmed by the
sun it expands, rises, and overflows the regions contiguous, producing currents of air more or
less violent. The heated column becomes lighter, and the colder heavier, in consequence of the
superincumbent mass. The effect upon the barometer is, however, greatly modified by the
vapor of water which is at the same time generated by heat, and by its elastic force tends to
increase the pressure. By the daily revolution of the earth, consecutive portions of its atmo-
sphere are warmed, causing horary oscillations, which amount to about 2.5 millimetres within the
tropics, and become almost inappreciable as we approach the frigid zone. Two points of maxi-
mum and two of minimum pressure occur during the twenty-four hours,* and their periods are
determined by the relative value of the influences produced by heat upon dry air and upon moisture.

4th. For abnormal changes of atmospheric pressure, sometimes termed barometric waves.
Contact of the air with an extensive surface of land heated by the sun's rays, and currents of
wind charged with a greater or less amount of moisture, create another system of atmospheric
dilatations, the effects of which may, in some respects, be compared to tides upon the ocean.
Within large areas they produce simultaneous oscillations of the barometric column, called
abnormal.^ They recur at irregular periods, and are variable in their character. Their magni-
tude is less within the tropics than in the temperate zones. Within the limits of our western

The remarks submitted above were entirely suggested by the reduction of the observations made upon the Pacific rail-
road explorations, and were informally communicated to the department some time since. Lately, through the kindness
of Professor Henry, the distinguished secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, I have received a copy of a lecture on me-
teorology, delivered before that institution by Robert Russell, Esq., with an appendix by the secretary, giving much in-
formation upon this subject. The whole pamphlet is highly interesting. With regard to the horary oscillations of the
barometer, Professor Henry remarks as follows :

"The fact that the barometer exhibits two maxima and two minima in the course of twenty-four hours has given rise to
much speculation as to its cause. The most common explanation is, that it is due to the joint action of the variation of
the temperature and moisture. In the morning, the moisture rising into the atmosphere increases the weight of the air
more than the heat diminishes it by expansion ; while at about ten o'clock a. m. the effect of heat overbalances that of
vapor, and again as the sun begins to decline the weight of the latter predominates. Mr. Espy attributes the daily oscil-
lations of the barometer to the upward and downward motion of the particles of air and moisture as they are separated or
approximated by the change of temperature. The particles weigh more while the rate of separation is increasing, and less
while it is diminishing. This is a true cause, hut we are not certain that it is a sufficient one. Whatever may be the cause
of the daily oscillations of the barometer, we know the effect is nearly the same in parts of the earth most widely separated."

According to the analysis of Mr. Dove, (see Kaemtz's Meteorology,) the pressure of dry air, when freed from the tension
of vapor, exhibited but one diurnal maximum and minimum. Instances have occurred where the readings of the barometer,
uncorrected for the force of vapor, have given a similar result.

f Abnormal oscillations include the residual errors of the barometric results, when corrected for all the atmospheric
changes that may be measured.

ATMOSPHERIC DISTURBANCES.

57

territory, the maximum amplitude of these tides, as measured by the barometer, is about one
inch — corresponding to 1,000 feet of elevation; though in latitude 35° it is somewhat less.
Hence the necessity for. simultaneous observations at those points whose differences of altitude are
to be determined by the barometer ; or, what is equivalent to it, corresponding observations at
some fixed station, within tbe same barometric region, in order to mark the period and measure
the amplitude of the oscillations for the determination of the correction due to them.

The latter plan has been adopted in our reconnoissance. For its execution, we have been
furnished by the Surgeon General's Department with unpublished records kept by officers of the
medical corps at various military posts in the vicinity of our route, and use has been made also
of corresponding observations upon Governor Stevens' and Captain Beckwith's lines of survey.

On account of the slight knowledge beretofore existing with regard to the climatological
character of the region between the Mississippi valley and the Pacific ocean, it could not be
determined, in advance, between what limits the serial tides could be considered sufficiently
coincident to render barometric observations, taken at different points, comparable. This ques-
tion was elucidated by the construction of diagrams, which exhibit the curves of unequal pres-
sure, observed upon our line, and the corresponding oscillations obtained from the various records
previously referred to. The diagrams are appended to this report, and probably will be exam-
ined with considerable interest. In noticing some of the ideas which tbey have suggested, it is
not proposed to enter into a general discussion of the problem of variable atmospheric pressure :
the data before us are too meagre. Until governments, or individuals, interested in scientific
researches, choose to unite in an extensive system of.atmospheric observations, we must continue
to be dependent upon theories, more or less vague and unsatisfactory. Were America and
Europe to combine in the undertaking, it would not be difficult nor expensive to arrange and
carry out a plan of operations, whereby light-houses upon tbe coasts, and military posts in the
interior, might be provided with instruments and observers ; and a comparison of the records
thus obtained would lead to a solution of most of the laws of the so-called meteorological phe-
nomena. This is one of the great desiderata of science at the present day. Our own govern-
ment, by the co-operation of its officers of the army and navy, and by the voluntary contribu-
tions of its citizens at home and abroad, might well take the initiative in the determination of
the causes of winds, clouds, and rain ; of variations of heat and atmospheric pressure ; and thus
add to the sum of human knowledge that which would be of incalculable value to man in every
branch of practical industry.

From a comparison of the observations appended to this report, it appears that in the Missis-
sippi valley currents of moist heated air from the Gulf of Mexico create a disturbance of the
atmosphere, and produce local storms. To what distance westward their effects are communi-
cated to tbe barometer can scarcely be deduced from the limited data examined. Our observa-
tions, however, at Napoleon, June 24, 1853, and those taken simultaneously at Memphis,
marked a period of great atmospheric pressure. This same phenomenon was noted at all the
barometric stations of the Mississippi valley, and at Fort Gibson in the Creek territory.

The Llano Estacado and great western prairies, being heated by the sun's rays, rarify the
superincumbent atmosphere, modifying the climate, and doubtless also the series of barometric
waves of the Mississippi valley ; yet, from the diagram it appears that all the oscillations noticed
at Fort Gibson, between July and September, inclusive, were felt almost simultaneously upon
our line from Fort Smith to New Mexico. In October, the curves of variable pressure at Albu-
querque still correspond to those observed at Fort Gibson, except as'regards some of the periods
of maxima and minima ; and in December, even as far westward as the Colorado Chiquito —
Flax river — a striking similarity continues for a considerable period.

The few observations collected for the month of December illustrate one important fact — the
widely-spread influence of a single barometric wave. Between tbe 4th and 10th, a remarkably
uniform rise and fall of the barometer is indicated at Fort Benton, near the eastern base of the
Kocky mountains ; opposite, at St. Mary's, on the head-waters of Clark's Fork of the Colum-
8 n

58

ABNORMAL MOVEMENTS OF THE BAROMETER.

bia ; at Fort Gibson, on tbe Arkansas ; at Great Salt Lake City ; at camps upon the Colorado
Chiquito ; and, though in a less degree, at San Diego, California. Hence, it appears that the
same tide of low atmospheric pressure covered at once a large portion of the western part of
this continent. It would be of interest to compare other observations made at the same period,
and determine whether, upon distant points of the globe, correspondingly high pressures were
produced. The phenomena commenced at Fort Benton and St. Mary's one day earlier than at
Great Salt Lake, and at other places further south. This fact is particularly noticeable in the
secondary oscillation of the 11th and 12th.

The meteorological record at Great Salt Lake conforms closely with the observations at Flax
river. At both places the weather continued "clear and pleasant" during the first rise and
part of the gradual fall of the barometer. Clouds were then formed. On the 10th, light showers
occurred. This disturbance of the atmosphere having restored the equilibrium of pressure, the
mercury rose, although heavy masses of threatening clouds were still visible. On the 12th,
the tide of pressure turned, and the mercury fell rapidly until the night of the 13th, when oc-
curred a light snow-storm. From this period the barometer remained almost stationary for a
day and a half, and then commenced a gradual and uniform rise, notwithstanding the contin-
uance of a series of violent storms of^wind, rain, sleet and snow that swept from the San Fran-
cisco mountains.

This comparison leads to the following opinions regarding the abnormal movements of
the barometer :*

1st. They are of great magnitude, and, if not taken into account, may produce an error in
the deduced altitude of several hundreds of feet.
2d. They are but slightly affected by local storms.

3d. They may occur almost simultaneously over the whole interior portion of the continent.
4th. They are actually identical within certain areas of great extent.

Our line, from the Mississippi valley to the Pacific, crosses three distinct barometric regions.
The first covers the extensive prairies east of the Kocky mountains ; the second lies within the
great basin and the valley of Rio Colorado ; and the last occurs upon the Pacific slope of the
Sierra Nevada. These different countries may be equally affected by heat and vapor, and pro-
duce similar changes of the barometric column. Usually, however, their waves are non-con-
formable, except when they meet and mingle near the immediate ranges of mountains.

The idea of applying to our barometric observations a correction, to be obtained by the plan
alluded to above, was first entertained in the field ; otherwise, it would have been necessary to
have divided our party into two barometric divisions — one to be stationary, while the other was
en route — a system which would have considerably retarded the operations. But upon our
return to Washington, while hastily preparing the material for a profile, I was informed that
no records of observations could be obtained suitable for a comparison. Hence, under the direc-
tion of L. Blodget, esq., then meteorologist of the Smithsonian Institute, our notes were com-
puted in the manner described by him in a preface to the tables. Afterward, when called upon
to review the work, I found that, notwithstanding the careful manner in which the observations
had been reduced, there might be errors, due to the abnormal atmospheric changes, remaining
uncorrected.

In the effort to determine these errors, and whether some practical method might be found
for eliminating them, the idea of making a diagram of the observations was suggested. Those

c From observations made, for ten days together, by F. Laval, upon the top of St. Pilen, a mountain near Marseilles,
which is 900 yards high, [see Russell's lectures, previously alluded to,] John Dalton remarks that "it may he inferred that
the fluctuations of the barometer are occasioned chiefly by a variation in the density of the lower regions of the air, and not
by an alternate elevation and depression of the whole superincumbent atmosphere." This theory, if true, would diminish
the value of the barometer as an instrument for determining altitudes. However, the barometric waves in the elevated,
regions of the Rocky mountains are not appreciably less than at Fort Gibson, with a difference in altitude of 5,000 feet.
Hence, while the observations arc confined to the stratum Sear the general surface of the earth, it seems to be evident that
the amount of the barometric oscillations is independent of the height above the sea.

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H Lawrence Lith «h John Si Kfc* fa*

SEDUCTION OF THE BAROMETRIC OBSERVATIONS.

59

made upon our line were developed into a curve ; the abscissa? representing the times of obser-
vation, and the ordinates, corresponding readings, or rather fluctuations, of the barometer ; the
measured difference between the altitudes of any two ordinates being the true elevation or
depression of the mercurial column after all the known corrections had been applied. This
curve was found to be remarkably regular, so long as the observations from which it was plotted
were made at the same station. But upon a change of place, the base being altered, the con-
tinuity of the line was broken ; and observations made at the second station could not be com-
pared with those taken a few hours before at the first, until the barometric movement for the
intermediate time should be made known. This could be satisfactorily determined only by
observations upon a barometer at rest during that period. Upon inquiry, it was ascertained
that, subsequent to our first computations, barometric records had been received at the Surgeon
General's office from various military posts in the vicinity of our route. To decide which of
them would serve to connect the broken links of our series between consecutive stations, similar
developments were made upon the diagram of other records covering the same periods of time.
A comparison of them all showed which corresponded most nearly with our own. If day after
day the oscillations at some fixed station were identical with those shown by the records made
by us in two or more camps, it is fair to assume that, during our progress between those camps,
the atmospheric dilatations were correctly represented in the same series.

This principle being established, its application was easy. By a construction, more elaborate
than has been attempted in the diagram, a complete curve of the variable pressure upon our
whole route might be represented. Then, having drawn a horizontal line to denote the mean
pressure, the abnormal error at any hour, during the required period, could be measured off
above or below, and applied, with its proper sign, to the observation ; but, for the reduction
of our profile, a simpler plan was adopted. Having, by the diagram, decided with which of
the fixed barometric stations it was desirable to compare, the observations at that place were
examined, and tables of the dilatations were made out, to be used as corrections. In deducing
these lists of corrections, I am greatly indebted to Dr. B. H. Coolidge, United States army, and
to Lorin Blodget, esq., for extending every facility and assistance that the Surgeon General's
department could afford.

For the determination of the profile of different portions of our line, corresponding observa-
tions were compared, as follows, viz :

From Fort Smith to Bio del Norte, with Fort Gibson. From Bio del Norte to Camp 73,
(less satisfactorily,) with Fort Gibson. From Camp 73 to Camp 91, (Leroux's Spring,) with
Great Salt Lake. From Leroux's Spring to Camp 113, on Williams' river, Avith Fort Yuma.
From Camp 113 to Camp 134, (last on Bio Colorado,) with mean between Great Salt Lake and
San Diego. From Camp 134 to the Pacific, with San Diego.

Beside the comparisons above mentioned, the relative heights of many of the principal points
were obtained by simultaneous observations at different stations along our route. This was
done whenever the party was divided for the purpose of making explorations in advance of the
main survey ; and the duplicate sets of observations then taken have proved valuable tests to
the results.

The readings of the barometer being thus corrected for expansion, horary oscillations, and
abnormal variations, the altitudes of the points of observation were deduced by the hypsometrieal
tables calculated by Professor Loomis after the formula of Laplace. These tables were convenient,
and highly satisfactory, except with reference to a single term of the corrections, viz: that
relating to the air temperatures. For the want of corresponding observations, made at appro-
priate fixed stations, the mean height of the mercurial column and mean temperature at tli
level in latitude 35° were assumed as the bases for comparison. It is evident thai the observa-
tions obtained at the various points upon the survey should also he reduced to mean values, in
order to be comparable with the assumed data. With regard to the barometer] tliis was accom-
plished with some pretensions to accuracy. The air temperatures, however, in consequenoe of

60

RESULTS OF TIIE COMPUTATION.

an oversight, due to the hasty manner in which the reductions were made, were not brought to
that standard ; hut, in the first computations, the corrections for that element were based upon
the observed reading, without regard to the hour of observation. Mr. Blodget soon saw that
the effect was to introduce an error into the results, and therefore he assumed a table of modifi-
cations^ by which each of the high temperatures was reduced, and the Ioav temperatures were
increased, by a quantity depending upon. the observed reading. This was a wi.se precaution,
serving to diminish the inaccuracies that were introduced into the first results, and leaving but
small residual errors. The necessity of reducing the temperatures to their mean determinations
was not understood until too late to apply the rule to the computations. It is believed, however,
that the errors resulting from this neglect will not be found of much magnitude, and they are
probably all upon the safe side, viz : they have increased the elevations of those points where
observations were made during the middle portion of the day ; rendering the grades too abrupt
and the profile too broken to represent the natural slope of the ground.

In concluding the remarks with regard to this subject, it may not be deemed improper to
mention that our operations have excited a spirit of inquiry after facts, and an inves-
tigation of the laws that govern the fluctuations of the barometric column. Parties that
have succeeded ours in the field have thus been enabled to profit by our experience, and obtain
results which prove that the general method of determining differences of altitude by measure-
ments of atmospheric pressure is susceptible of a closer degree of accuracy than its advocates
have heretofore claimed. The importance of such a determination will be appreciated by those
Avho reflect upon the vast expense and labor which would be required to obtain profiles of the
interior portion of our territory by any other process. Excepting the small errors that have
been referred to, this portion of our work is believed to possess a satisfactory degree of accuracy.
Each camp having been referred directly to the sea-level, the minor discrepancies, which in such
a reconnoissance cannot easily be avoided, have not been suffered to accumulate. The camps,
therefore, may be considered as the standard points of reference for the profile line. The con-
tour of the ground between them was determined by an independent system ; aneroid or mer-
curial barometers having been observed at the most important stations upon each day's march,
and topographical sketches made of the whole belt of country within the field of view. The
data thus gathered forms material for a series of maps upon a scale of oT^Tt with curved lines,
fine and coarse, to represent the sections of horizontal planes, ten and fifty feet apart. Although
founded upon rapid examinations — strict accuracy not being claimed for all of the details — a
delineation upon this scale was necessary, in order to exhibit the character of the country in
accordance with our field-notes. Upon the topography of these maps we may trace the line
most favorable for a railroad, and measure the curves and grades which the contour would
require. A profile of this route has also been made upon the same large scale, showing approx-
imately the cutting and filling necessary to produce the grades which are given. This differs
materially, both as regards length and elevation, from the one previously submitted to the
department, the latter exhibiting merely the wagon trail with the altitudes uncorrected for
abnormal error.

In order to avoid the great expense of publishing the detailed maps and profiles previously
alluded to, the greater part of the results which they have enabled us to arrive at, relating to
distances and grades, as well as excavation and embankment, is condensed; and the former is
presented in the accompanying table, marked Appendix N. In that may be found one of
^.he most serious objections to which this route is liable, viz : a long succession of heavy grades
through the mountainous regions of the interior. Future examinations over sections already
refe rred to in the preceding pages, or through passes not yet discovered, will undoubtedly
enabl^ the engineer to modify and greatly improve the location of the line. The steep declivity
and exVensive rock-cutting in the San Antonio canon, may be rendered unnecessary by following
the Galileo river. The elevated and somewhat broken region, between San Francisco Springs
and Aztec V^ss, may probably be avoided by pursuing a more southerly course, as indicated by

DEVIATIONS FROM THE LINE OF SURVEY.

61

the dotted line upon the map. Should it he desirahle to terminate the road a* San Diego or
Los Angeles, it might he found preferahle even to descend the Rio Verde and the Salinas to Kio
Gila, and there unite with the southern route. Such a connexion would join, hy a cultivable
valley, the most favorable parts of the two routes ; and present a line bordered with arable soil
adapted for settlement throughout a great portion of the distance between the Mississippi and
the Pacific.

Other lines, dotted upon the map, are respectfully recommended for examination. One is
from Rio Gallinas, via Ojo de Vernal, to "Rio Pecos at San Miguel ; and thence across the mesa
to a branch of Eio Galisteo, which leads to Rio del Norte, at San Felipe. Crossing the river
at that point, the line keeps a south-southwesterly course, to ascend the bluffs which bound it,
then enters the valley of Rio Puerco, and joins the line of survey in the valley of Rio San Jose.
Another route is indicated from the Val de China, through a break in the Aztec range near
Sierra Prieta, and thence down Rio Santa Maria and Williams' river to the Colorado. From
the latter point a practicable route is believed to lead in nearly a direct course to Soda lake.

By some of the methods suggested, it is believed that the greater part of the steep grades
shown upon the profile, and given in the table, may be avoided. The length of the line might
thereby be somewhat increased, but the expense of construction would probably be diminished.

By a reference to the general maps it will be perceived that, in two instances,, the trace for the
profile departs widely from the positon of the wagon and reconnoitring trails. The first is
from Big Sandy creek to the Colorado ; the second, from the Sacramento Springs to Soda lake.
The country, however, in those regions is so open, that the several parts of it were plainly visible
from various points upon our trail ; and the plotting of the triangulation notes, connected hy
the topographical sketches, left no doubt upon our minds that its character is such as is repre-
sented. By the former, the great bend of Williams' river is avoided, making the distance to the
Mojave village considerably less, and producing also a saving in expense for rock-cutting and
bridging. The grades, on the other hand, are greatly increased. The latter deflection effects
a saving both in distance and in grade. Upon both, tanks would probably be required at some
of the necessary watering stations.

With reference to the elevation of the interior portion of the continent, as determined by
comparative barometric measurements, it has already been stated that, from the non-application
of a correction believed to be due to the diminution of the force of vapor in that region, the
altitudes upon the central part of our line are probably several hundred feet too great. In the
consideration of this subject, another idea has been suggested, viz : that a column of air upon
the seacoast, the weight of which is taken as the standard of comparison, may contain, nofr only
a large amount of vapor of water, but salts and other impurities in suspension, such as the air
of the interior of the continent would be free from. In consequence of such unequal conditions
of the air, differences of altitude would be too great, when deduced from the measured weights
of the atmospheric columns. The amount of error due to this cause is probably small, yet it
seems to be a subject worthy of investigation. However we may regret to throw doubt upon
the final accuracy of the profile, it is gratifying to believe that the errors it contains have con-
stantly the effect of exaggerating the difficulties to be overcome, and that future examinations
will lead to more favorable results.

In the table of grades, which has been carefully deduced from the field-notes of the survey,
the maximum inclination is believed to have been noted upon every portion of the lino, except
from the point of leaving the Mojave river to Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass. There, but lew points ate
given in altitude, and, between them, mean inclinations are represented. The intermediate ele-
vations and depressions would increase the grades; but, from the general appearance of the
country, I should have estimated the amount somewhat less than Lieutenant Williams, mi has
stated in his report. In order to exhibit the proposed termination of this line upon the Pacifio,
by the consent of the department, the profile of Lieutenant Williamson is adopted from Tah-
ee-chaj'-pah Pass to San Francisco.

62

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

The sum of ascents and descents upon the whole line amounts to 47,539 feet ; which, with
the full working power of the road developed, Avould he equivalent (according to the formula
of Messrs. Latrohe and Knight) to 900 miles of level grade. With the amount of work, how-
ever, estimated for the Pacific railway, the equated length,, corresponding to the sum of ascents
and descents, is supposed to he of little practical value.

COST OP CONSTRUCTION.

The various explorations that have heen made under orders from the "War Department, make
it sufficiently evident that the country "between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean may
he traversed hy several lines, which are not so -unfavorahle for the location of a railway as
heretofore supposed. The closer the subject is examined, the less serious appear the obstacles
to he encountered, so far as they relate to the local conditions of the grade, curvature, and the
characteristics of the soil ; hut the hasty manner in which the explorations were necessarily
made, precludes the possibility of forming a satisfactory computation of the cost of constructing a
railroad upon either of the lines. With the preliminary reports of the field-work before them,
practical engineers differ widely in the conclusions to which they arrive upon this point. It is
natural, perhaps, that one, desirous of impressing the public with a conviction of the practica-
bility of the route which seems to him worthy to he adopted — particularly if guided, in a con-
siderable degree, hy conjecture rather than computation — should hase his estimates upon the
most favorable terms, and undervalue the difficulties incident to the country to he traversed.
On the other hand, looking only at the magnitude of the undertaking, and anxious to convey a
just appreciation of it, it would be equally easy to err upon the side of exaggeration. Besides,
engineers differ in their ideas regarding the character of the road to he constructed : some esti-
mating for a single track, with light rails, and a narrow gauge ; others for a double track, and
more expensive characteristics. Hence, when such varied estimates apply to different routes, a
comparison of them affords no criterion for determining the relative merits of the lines proposed.

It would be a source of regret to me if, through any neglect or error of judgment upon my
part, a false impression should be conveyed to the department upon this highly important
question. To avoid it as far as practicable, the data upon which the following estimate is based
will be submitted, that others, with practical experience in railroad engineering, in which I am
deficient, may re-examine the details, and correct the errors which may be made.

The principal streams for the transportation of supplies, in the construction of a road, are the
Arkansas and Canadian rivers upon the eastern division, and Eio Colorado and San Joaquin
upon the western. The Colorado would doubtless be navigable to the Mojave village, for
steamboats of light draught, for the greater portion of the year. The Canadian could be navi-
gated in like manner, certainly, to Beaverstown, about 200 miles west from Fort Smith, and
possibly, during the wet season, a considerable distance beyond. The main depots, therefore,
for supplies, would be at Fort Smith and Beaverstown upon the east, and San Francisco and
Mojave village on the west. For the distance within the two interior points — 1,200 miles — it
would be necessary to rely mainly upon land transportation.

For the preparation of the road-bed, parties might, with advantage, commence operations at
each of the four points above mentioned, and proceed also east and west from Eio Grande. In
distributing the iron, and laying the tracks, it would be economical to work from the main
depots only, that the road itself may bear the chief burden of the land transportation. Pro-
gressing simultaneously from Beaverstown and Bio Colorado toward the interior, and laying
tracks at an average of half a mile upon each side daily, it would require about three and a half
years to effect a junction.

In the following estimate of the cost of construction, less expensive characteristics are assumed
than those upon which the estimate in my preliminary report was based. The weight of rail
is reduced to 75 pounds per yard. A single track, with sidings, is substituted for a double

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

63

track ; and the full equipment is diminished to a proportion which is esteemed sufficient for the
required service of the road. Another element of this reduction is founded upon the idea, that,
the line having "been decided upon, the country will be opened to settlers, who, occupying a
great portion of the arahle valleys upon the route, will he ahle to furnish much of the subsistence
necessary for the lahorers, and, in various ways, may aid in the construction of the road.

The various items of the estimate are, however, founded upon actual computation, as far as
the details of the survey would admit ; and where explicit data were wanting, all the known
circumstances of the case have heen weighed, and every doubtful point taken into consideration,
in order that the amounts stated may not fall short of the necessary expense. Over the most
difficult parts of the line, elahorated profiles, upon the horizontal scale of — the vertical
heing exaggerated 50 times — have given facilities for an approximate computation of the cutting
and filling that would he required ; and in the determination of the earthwork, masonry, &c,
for a considerahle portion of the work, I would acknowledge the valuahle assistance received
from Afbert H. Camphell, esq., civil engineer.

ESTIMATE.

Section 1. — From Fort Smith to the head of Fojarito creeh, 706 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 13,012,124 cuhic yards, at 15 cents . $1,951,819

Kock-cutting, 305,793 cuhic yards, at $1 305,793

Masonry, 175,809 cuhic yards, at $4 703,236

Bridging, 4,960 feet, at $30 148,800

Grubhing and clearing, 350 miles, at $200 70,000

Ballasting, 350 miles, at $1,000 350,000

3,529,648

Add 50 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 1,764,824

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $5,294,472

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties for 706 miles, averaging $1,200 per mile 847,200

Kailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Fort Smith, for
single track and sidings for 706 miles, 102,511.2 tons, at $80

per ton 8,200,896

Transportation of same 353 miles, at 3 cents per ton per mile 1,085,594

Wrought iron chairs and spikes for 706 miles, at $500 per mile... 353,000

Distributing and placing iron and cross-ties, 706 miles, at $1,000

per mile 706,000

Amount for superstructure 11,192,690

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 80, at $10,000 800,000

Passenger cars, 70, at $3,000 210,000

Baggage cars, 25, at $1,500 37,500

Freight cars, 1,200, at $1,000 1,200,000

G4

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

Engine-houses and passenger depots $250,000

Way stations for water and wood 250,000

Amount for equipment $2,747,500

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 1,923,466

Amount , .... 21,158,128

Average cost per mile 29,969

Section 2. — From the head of Pajarito creek to Isleta, 144 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 4,520,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents 678,000

Rock-cutting, 2,880,000 cubic yards, at $1 2,880,000

Masonry, 43,200 cubic yards, at $4 172,800

Bridging, 5,660 feet, at $40 226,400

Grubbing and clearing, 100 miles, at $200 20,000

Ballasting, 20 miles, at $1,000 20,000

3,997,200

Add 50 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 1,998,600

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c 5,995,800

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties for 144 miles, averaging $1,500 per mile 216,000

Railroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Fort Smith, for
' single track and sidings for 144 miles, 20,908.8 tons, at $80

per ton 1,672,684

Transportation of same 778 miles, at 4 cents per ton per mile 650,680

Wrought iron chairs and spikes for 144 miles, at $600 per mile... 86,400
Distributing and placing iron and cross-ties, 144 miles, at $1,000

per mile 144,000

Amount for superstructure 2,769,764

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 16, at $10,000 160,000

Passenger cars, 15, at 3,000 45,000

Baggage cars, 4, at $1,500 6,000

Freight cars, 245, at 1,000 245,000

Engine-houses and passenger depots 100,000

Way stations for water and wood 150,000

Amount for equipment 706,000

9,471,564

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 947,156

Amount 10,418,720

Average cost per mile 72,352

COST OF CONSTRUCTION. 65
Section 3. — From Isleta to Campbell's Pass, 116.7 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 2,015,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $302,250

Bock-cutting, 215,000 cubic yards, at $1 215,000

Masonry, 37,000 cubic yards, at $4 148,000

Bridging, 1,800 feet, at $30 : 54,000

Grubbing and clearing, 115 miles, at $200 23,000

Ballasting, 40 miles, at $1,000 40,000

782,250

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 782,250

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $1,564,500

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 116.7 miles, at $1,500 per mile 175,050

Bailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Fort Smith,

for single track and sidings, for 116.7 miles, 16,945 tons, at

$80 per ton , 1,355,600

Transportation of same, for 909 miles, at 5 cents per ton per

mile 770,150

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 116.7 miles, at $700 per

mile 81,690

Distributing and placing iron and cross-ties, for 116.7 miles, at

$1,500 per mile 175,050

Amount for superstructure 2,558,540

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 13, at $10,000 130,000

Passenger cars, 12, at $3,000 36,000

Baggage cars, 3, at $1,500 4,500

Freight cars, 200, at $1,000 200,000

Engine-houses and passenger depots 100,000

Way stations for water and wood 100,000

Amount for equipment 570,500

4,693,540

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 469,354

Amount , 5,102,894

Average cost per mile 44,240

9 n

66

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

Section 4. — From Campbell's Pass to the mouth of Rio Puerco of the west, 121 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 3,405,230 cubic yards, at 15 cents $51 0,735

Rock-cutting, 242,000 cubic yards, at $1 242,000

Masonry, 24,200 cubic yards, at $4 96,800

Bridging, 1,210 feet, at $30 36,300

Grubbing and clearing, 121 miles, at $200 24,200

Ballasting, 10 miles, at $1,000 10,000

920,035

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 920,035

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $1,840,070

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 121 miles, at $1,800 per mile 217,800

Bailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Fort Smith,
for single track and sidings, for 121 miles, 17,659.2 tons, at

$80 per ton 1,405,536

Transportation of same, 1,027 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile... 902,178

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 121 miles, at $800 per mile... 96,800

Ditributing and placing cross-ties and rails, for 121 miles, at

$1,500 per mile , 181,500

Amount for superstructure 2,803,814

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 13, at $10,000 130,000

Passenger cars, 12, at $3,000 36,000

Baggage cars, 3, $1,500 4,500

Freight cars, 200, at $1,000 200,000

Engine-houses and passenger depots 100,000

Way stations for water and wood 200,000

Amount for equipment 670,500

5,314,384

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 531,438

Amount 5,845,822

Average cost per mile 48,313

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

G7

Section 5. — Valley of Flax river, from mouth of Bio Puerco of the west to crossing of Flax river,

35 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 700,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $105,000

Masonry, 8,750 cubic yards, at $4 35,000

Bridging, 350 feet, at $30 10,500

Ballasting, 35 miles, at $1,000 35,000

185,500

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices... 185,500

Amount for graduation, masonary, &c $371,000

SUPERSTRUCTURE .

Cross-ties, for 35 miles, at $1,500 per mile 52,500

Kailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at the Mojave vil-
lage, on Kio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 35 miles,

5,082 tons, at $110 per ton 559,020

Transportation of same, 326 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 82,836

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 35 miles, at $800 per mile... 28,000
Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, 35 miles, at $1,500

per mile 52,500

Amount for superstructure 774,856

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 4, at $10,500 42,000

Passenger cars, 3, at $3,100 9,300

Baggage cars, 1, at $1,600 1,600

Freight cars, 45, at 1,100 49,500

Engine-houses and passenger depots 30,000

Way stations for water and wood 10,000

Amount for equipment .' 142,400

1,288,256

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 128,826

Amount 1,417,082

Average cost per mile 40,488

68

COST OP CONSTRUCTION.

Section 6. — From crossing of Flax river to summit nearLeroux' s Spring, 81 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 2,430,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $364,500

Bock-cutting, 1,690,000 cubic yards, at $1 1,690,000

Masonry, 20,500 cubic yards, at $4 82,000

Bridging, 1,600 feet, at $30 48,000

Grubbing and clearing, 81 miles, at $200 16,200

2,200,700

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 2,200,700

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $4,401,400

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 81 miles, at $1,200 per mile 97,200

Eailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at the Mojave vil-
lage, on Eio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 81 miles,

11,761.2 tons, at $110 per ton 1,293.732

Transportation of same, 232 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 136,430

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 81 miles, at $800 per mile... 64,800

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, 81 miles, at $1,500 121,500

Amount for superstructure 1,713,662

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 9, at $10,500 94,500

Eassenger cars, 8, at $3,100 ., , 24,800

Baggage cars, 2, at $1,600 3,200

Freight cars, 138, at $1,100 151,800

Engine-houses and passenger depots 80,000

Way stations for water and wood 80,000

Amount for equipment ... 434,300

6,549,362

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 654,936

Amount 7,204,298

Average cost per mile 88,942

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

69

Section 7. — From summit near Leroux's Spring to Aztec Pass, 87 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 4,105,851 cubic yards, at 15 cents $615,878

Bock-cutting, 1,878,709 cubic yards, at $1 1,878,709

Masonry, 24,000 cubic yards, at $4 96,000

Bridging, 900 feet, at $30 27,000

Grubbing and clearing, 80 miles, at $200 16,000

Ballasting, 7 miles, at $1,000 7,000

2,640,587

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 2,640,587

Amount for graduation, masonry &c , $5,281,174

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 87 miles, at $1,200 per mile 104,400

Bailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Mojave village,
on Bio Colorado, for single track arid sidings, for 87 miles,

12,632.4 tons, at $110 per ton 1,389,564

Transportation of same, 148 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile... 93,480

Wrougbt-iron chairs and spikes, for 87 miles, at $800 per mile... 69,600

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, 87 miles, at $1,500

per mile 130,500

Amount for superstructure = , 1,787,544

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 10, at $10, 500 : 105,000

Passenger cars, 9, at $3,100 27,900

Baggage cars, 2, at $1,600 3,200

Freight cars, 148, at 1,100 162,800

Engine-houses and passenger depots 90,000

Way stations for water and wood 90,000

Amount for equipment 478,900

7,547,618

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent ; 754,762

Amount 8,302,380

Average cost per mile 95,200

70

COST OF CONSTRUCTION

Section 8. — From Aztec Pass to Cross mountain, 23.3 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 582,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $87,300

Rock-cutting, 46,200 cubic yards, at $1 46,200

Masonry, 5,825 cubic yards, at $4 23,300

Bridging, 233 feet, at $30 6,990

Grubbing and clearing, 10 miles, at $200 2,000

Ballasting, 10 miles, at $1,000 10,000

175,790

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 175,790

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $351,580

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 23.3 miles, at $1,500 per mile 34,950

Railroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Mojave village,
on Rio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 23.3 miles,

3,383.2 tons, at $110 per ton 372,152

Transportation of same, 93 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile.... 15,732

Wrougbt-iron chairs and spikes, for 23.3 miles, at $800 per mile 18,640

Distributing and placing cross-ties and iron, 23.3 miles, at $1,500

per mile 34,950

Amount for superstructure , 476,424

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 3, at $10,500 31,500

Passenger cars, 2, at $3, 100 6,200

Baggage cars, 1, at $1,600 1,600

Freight cars, 40, at 1,100 44,000

Engine-houses and passenger depots 20,000

Way stations for water and wood , 10,000

Amount for equipment. 113,300

941,304

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 94,130

Amount 1,035,434

Average cost per mile 44,435

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

71

Section 9. — From Cross mountain to the crossing of Big Sandy, 27.5 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 760,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $114,000

Bock-cutting, 425,000 cubic yards, at $1 425,000

Masonry, 8,250 cubic yards, at $4 33,000

Bridging, 550 feet, at $30 16,500

Grubbing and clearing, 25 miles, at $200 5,000

Ballasting, 10 miles, at $1,000 10,000

603,500

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 603,500

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $1,207,000

SUPERSTRUCTURE .

Cross-ties, for 27.5 miles, at $1,800 47,500

Eailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Mojave village,
on Eio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 27.5 miles,

3,993 tons, at $110 439,230

Transportation of same, 68 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile. 13,576

Wrougbt-iron cbairs and spikes, for 27.5 miles, at $800 per mile... 22,000

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, 27.5 miles, at $1,500 41,250

Amount for superstructure 563,556

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 3, at $10,500 , 31,500

Passenger cars, 3, at $3,100 9,300

Baggage cars, 1, at $1,600 1,600

Freight cars, 47, at $1,100 51,700

Engine-bouses and passenger depots 25,000

Way stations for water and wood „ 50,000

Amount for equipment 169,100

1,939,656

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 193,966

Amount 2,133,622

Average cost per mile 77,583

72

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

Section 10. — From crossing of Big Sandy to crossing of Rio Colorado, 53.7 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 1,350,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $202,500

Bock-cutting, 27,000 cubic yards, at $1 27,000

Masonry, 10,800 cubic yards, at $4 43,200

Bridges, 537 feet, at $30 16,110

Grubbing and clearing, 53.7 miles, at $200 10,740

299,550

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 299,550

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $599,100

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 53.7 miles, at $2,000 per mile 107,400

Bailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at Mojave village,
on Bio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 53.7 miles,

7,797.2 tons, at $110 per ton 857,696

Transportation of same, 27 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 10,526

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 53.7 miles, at $800 per mile... 42,960

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, 53.7 miles, at $1,500 80,550

Amount for superstructure 1,099,132

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 6, at $10,500 63,000

Bassenger cars, 5, at $3,100 15,500

Baggage cars, 2, at $1,600 3,200

Freight cars, 91, at $1,100 100,100

Engine-houses and passenger depots 50,000

Way stations for water and wood 200,000

Amount for equipment 431,800

2,130,032

For engineering and contingencies, add 20 per cent 426,006

Amount 2,556,038

Average cost per mile 47,600

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

73

Section 11. — From the crossing of Rio Colorado to Soda Lake, 96.8 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, (grading,) 1,716,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $257,400

Earthwork, (embankment through sandy soil,) 700,000 cubic yards,

at 25 cents 175,000

Rock-cutting, 60,000 cubic yards, at $1 60,000

Masonry, 37,000 cubic yards, at $4 148,000

Bridges, 800 feet, at $40 32,000

Bridges, 600 feet, at $30 18,000

690,400

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 690,400

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c 1,380,800

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 96.8 miles, at $2,000 per mile 193,600

Bailroad iron — 75 lbs. per yard — delivered at Mojave village, on
Rio Colorado, for single track and sidings, for 96.8 miles,

14,055 tons, at $110 per ton 1,556,090

Transportation of same, 48 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 33,732

Wrought-iron chairs and spikes, for 96.8 miles, at $800 per mile... 77,440

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, for 96.8 miles, at

$1,500 per mile 145,200

Amount for superstructure.... 2,006,062

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 11, at $10,500 115,500

Passenger cars, 10, at 3,100 31,000

Baggage cars, 3, at 1,600 4,800

Freight cars, 164, at 1,100 ." 180,400

Engine-houses and passenger depots.... 100,000

Way stations for water and wood 300,000

Amount for equipment . 731,700

4,118,562

For engineering and contingencies, add 20 per cent 823,712

Amount 4,941,274

Average cost per mile 51,057

10 n

74

COST OP CONSTRUCTION.

Section 12. — From Soda Lake to the point of leaving Mojave river, 70.5 miles.

GRADUATION, MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 1,410,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $211,500

Bock-cutting, 30,000 cubic yards, at $1 30,000

Masonry, 21,150 cubic yards, at $4 84,600

Bridges, 700 feet, at $30 21,000

Grubbing and clearing, 70.5 miles, at $200 per mile 14,100

Ballasting, 50 miles, at $1.000 50,000

411,200

Add 100 per cent, for increase over eastern prices 411,200

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $822,400

SUPERSTRUCTURE.

Cross-ties, for 70.5 miles, at $1,800 per mile 126,900

Kailroad iron — 75 lbs. per yard — delivered at San Francisco, for
single track and sidings, for 70.5 miles, 10,236.6 tons, at $92

per ton 941,767

Transportation of same, 425 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 217,528

Wrougbt-iron chairs and spikes, for 70.5 miles, at $800 per mile... 56,400

Distributing and placing cross-ties and rails, for 70.5 miles, at

$1,500 per mile 105,750

Amount for superstructure 1,448,345

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 8, at $10,500 84,000

Passenger cars, 7, at $3,100 21,700

Baggage cars, 2, at $1,600 3,200

Freight cars, 120, at $1,100 132,000

Engine-houses and passenger depots 70,000

Way stations for water and wood 70,000

Amount for equipment 380,900

2,651,645

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 265,165

Amount 2,916,810

Average cost per mile 41,373

COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

75

Section 13. — From the point of leaving Mojave river to entrance of Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, 63 miles.

GRADUATION , MASONRY, ETC.

Earthwork, 1,890,000 cubic yards, at 15 cents $283,500

Bock-cutting, 15,000 cubic yards, at $1 15,000

Masonry, 18,900 cubic yards, at $4 75,600

Bridging, 600 feet, at $30 18,000

Grubbing and clearing, 50 miles, at $200 10,000

Ballasting or piling, 13 miles, at $2,000 26,000

428,100

Add 100 per cent, for increase above eastern prices 428,100

Amount for graduation, masonry, &c $856,200

SUPERSTRUCTURE .

Cross-ties, for 63 miles, at $1,800 per mile 113,400

Bailroad iron — 75 pounds per yard — delivered at San Francisco,
for single track and sidings, for 63 miles, 9,147.6 tons, at $92

per ton 841,579

Transportation of same, 358 miles, at 5 cents per ton per mile 163,742

Wrought iron chairs and spikes, for 63 miles, at $800 per mile.... 50,400

Distributing and placing croes-ties and rails, for 63 miles, at

$1,500 per mile 94,500

Amount for superstructure 1,263,621

EQUIPMENT.

Locomotives, 7, at $10,500 . 73,500

Passenger cars, 6, at $3,100 18,600

Baggage cars, 2, at $1,600 3,200

Freight cars, 107, at $1,100 117,700

Engine-houses and passenger depots 50,000

Way stations for water and fuel 250,000

Amount for equipment 513,000

2,632,821

For engineering and contingencies, add 10 per cent 263,282

Amount 2,896,103

Average cost per mile 45,970

76 COST OF CONSTRUCTION.

RECAPITULATION OF ESTIMATE.

Sections.

Distance.

Preparation of
road-bed.

Superstruc-
ture.

Equipment.

Engineering &
contingencies.

Amount.

Fort Smith to head of Pajarito creek

Head of Pajarito creek to Isleta

Isleta to Campbell's Pass

Campbell's Pass to mouth of Rio Puerco
of the west.

Valley of Flax river

Flax river to Leroux's Spring

Leroux's Spring to Aztec Pass

Aztec Pass to Cross mountain

Cross mountain to Big Sandy

Rio Colorado to Soda lake.

Soda lake to point of leaving Mojave
river.

Point of leaving Mojave river to Tah-ee-

chay-pah Pass.
Through Tah-ee chay-pah Pass

706
144
116. 7
121

OO

81
87

23. 3
27.5

96.8
70.5

63

«38. 5
f 288

$5,294,472
5, 995, 800
1,564,500
1,840,070

971 DAn
oil, UUU

4,401,400
5, 281, 174

351, 580
1,207,000

vi q inn
1,380,800

822,400

856,200

$11,192,690
2,769,764
2,558,540
2,803,814

77 A QR(!
1 ii, ODD

1,713,662
1, 787, 544
476, 424
563,556

1 nQQ 139
2,006,062
1,448,345

1,263,621

$2,747,500
706,000
570,500
670,500

434,300
478, 900
113, 300
169, 100

tOLy oUU

731,700
380,900

513,000

$1,923,466
947,156
469,354
531,438

loo otr

llo, 8io
654,936
754,762
94, 130
193, 966

^bZO, UUO

823,712
265, 165

263,282

$21,158,128
10,418,720
5,162,894
5,845,822

1, 41 ( , OoZ
7,204,298
8,302,380
1, 035, 434
2, 133, 622
2,556,038
4,941,274
2,916,810

2,896,103

3,465,000
14,400,000

Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass to San Francisco

From Fort Smith to San Francisco

1,952

93,853, 605

4€,081

* At $90, 000 per mile, according to Capt. Humphrey's estimate,
f At $50, 000 per mile, (see Capt. Humphrey's estimate.)

RECAPITULATION.

From a glance at the preceding estimates and remarks, founded upon examinations of the
data obtained by the survey, it seems evident that the route near the parallel of 35° north
latitude possesses some important advantages. Among them may he mentioned the general
directness of its course from the principal commercial cities of the east to the harbor of San
Francisco ; its temperate and salubrious climate ; its freedom from heavy snows ; the large
amount of timber and fuel upon its extremities and interior portions ; the convenient distribu-
tion of stone for construction ; the generally plentiful supply of water ; the comparatively great
extent of arable valleys along the route, and frequency of spots adapted to settlements. The
objections that may be made to it, both with regard to grade and the barren character of the
soil upon the western portion of the line, have already been noticed. The latter, to a greater
or less degree, seems to be common to all the routes. There are portions of this desert region,
however, that, by the labor of man, may undoubtedly be renovated, and made productive.
This, and other changes, which the construction of a railroad from the Mississippi river to the
Pacific would produce upon the country traversed, can scarcely be appreciated by one accus-
tomed to view its present desolation. Many who visited California in 1849 and 1850 pro-
nounced the country to be almost destitute of agricultural resources. The same mistake, in a
less degree, has doubtless been made regarding a considerable portion of the uncultivated region
under consideration.

In reference to the first objection above noticed, it may be remarked that, in the progress of
the science of railroad engineering, considerable changes have taken place within the last few
years in the practice of the art. Grades that were formerly deemed impracticable without sta-
tionary engines, are now readily overcome by the ordinary locomotives of the train ; ridges that

CONCLUSION.

77

would have been tunnelled, are now surmounted by a surface grade ; thereby promoting econ-
omy, safety, and speed.*

CONCLUSION.

The operations of the survey have been narrated in the preceding pages considerably in
detail. I am aware that greater brevity would have been desirable, but it seemed necessary to
lay before the department not only the results obtained, but also the material upon which they
were founded. It was less important to present my own opinions than to furnish the facts
collected, and thus enable this route to be compared with others, so as to determine, from the
character of the various countries described, the location of that line between the Mississippi
river and the Pacific ocean which may be the most favorable for a railroad. Having seen much
of the noble State of California, I am deeply impressed with the importance of uniting her more
closely with the Atlantic portion of the Union ; and believing that several routes proposed by
the department are possessed of advantages and difficulties peculiar to each, it seems proper
that they should be considered with sound judgment and discretion, that the final location of
the road may be best adapted to the great interests of the nation. Therefore, disclaiming all
personal preference for the line entrusted to me for examination, it has been my effort to make
equally prominent the facilities and the obstructions which the survey has been able to detect,
leaving the judgment to be rendered by the department and the nation in favor of, or adverse
to, this line of location.

The geological, the botanical, and the zoological reports which follow, will greatly aid in
the formation of an enlightened opinion upon this question. Each of them contains specific
information, interesting to the scientific world, and particularly illustrative of the character of
the country with reference to its adaptation to the purpose in view. The succeeding report
upon the Indian tribes that have been known to inhabit the belt of country under consideration,
will be found to contain some facts regarding the character of its soil and its capacity to sup-
port an agricultural or pastoral population.

* In a recent number of the "Kailroad Eecord," there is an interesting article, copied from the London Civ. Eng. and
Arch. Jour., on steep gradients of railways, and the locomotives employed. The following is an extract :

"Though it could not be denied that English railway engineers were formerly prejudiced against any steeper inclination
than 1 in 100 " — 52.8 feet per mile — " and had believed that gradients of 1 in 50 "■ — 105.6 feet per mile — " could only be
worked by means of ropes, yet it must be remembered that 15 years ago Halifax was approached by a gradient of 1 in 44,
and that 22 passenger trains per day, besides goods trains, were, without difficulty, conveyed over that incline by loco-
motives. There was, therefore, nothing new in these steep inclines, nor in the manner of working them. It should also
be mentioned, that the results of the later experience went to prove that it was more advantageous to rely on the loco-
motive than on any system of ropes. Not only had the latter system been abandoned on the Euston incline, (London,)
and at Miles Platting incline, (Manchester,) but even at Oldham, where there was a gradient of 1 in 27 (195.5 feet per
mile) for one and three-feurth mile ; the rope was taken away two years ago, and the traffic was now entirely dependent
on locomotives. ' '

»

PART III.

9

V

I

*

EXPLORATIONS AND SDRVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

EOUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, UNDER THE COMMAND OF LIEUT. A. W. WHIPPLE,
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853 AND 1854.

REPORT

UPON

THE INDIAN TRIBES,

BY

LIEUT. A. W. WHIPPLE, THOMAS EWBANK, ESQ., AND PROF. WE W. TURNER

WASHINGTON, D. C,
1855.

W 1

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Remarks regarding the localities, numbers, modes of subsistence, kc., of various tribes upon the route 7

CHAPTER H.

Indian residences. — Portraits and dress 20

CHAPTER III.

Indian traditions, superstitions, and pictographs 35

I

CHAPTER IV.

Illustrations of Indian antiquities and arts : by Thomas Ewbank 44

CHAPTER V.

Vocabularies of North American languages : collected by A. W. "Whipple ; classified, with accompanying remarks,

by Wm. W. Turner. . . 54

CHARTER VI.

Condition of the aborigines of New Mexico upon its discovery by Spaniards 104

CHAPTER VII.

History of the Apache nations and other tribes, near the parallel of 35° north latitude. 118

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page.

1 . Map of the pueblos of New Mexico — - 10

2. Yuma map — - - - -- 16

3. Paiute map _ - -- 16

4. Kaiowa camp — -- - 20

5. Kaiowas removing camp _ 21

6. Zufii - 21

7. Ruins upon El Moro. -- - - 22

8 . Apaclie wigwam - -- 22

9. Vestiges of ancient dwellings 23

10. Mojave dwelling , — 24

11. Choctaws -- - - -- 24

12. Choctaws 25

13. Shawnees -- - - 25

14. Shawnees - 26

15. Black Beaver - - 26

16. Delaware device - .- 26

17. Hue"co Indians - 27

18. Comanches - - 28

19. Kaiowa buffalo chase 29

20. Pueblo Indians - 29

21. ZuSi Indians - 30

22. Navajos 31

23. Tontos 31

24. Chemehuevis Indians - _ 32

25. Mojaves ^ 33

26. Cahuillos-.. 34

2 7 . Comanche camp on Shady creek 36

28. Pictographs at Rocky Dell creek 37

29. Do do , , 38

30. Inscriptions at Rocky Doll creek „ , 38

31. Etchings upon rocks at Ojo Pescado 39

32. Etchings at Arch spring - 39

33. Legendary statues.. - _ 41

34. Indian altar and ruins of Old Zufii - 41

35. Pictographs at Yampais Spring. .» 42

36. Etchings at Paiute creek T 42

37. Zuiii sacred spring , 44

38. Indian designs and manufactures ,.,.,„,-,. ,,,„_, ,,..»--,.», ,. 45

39 . Ancient Indian pottery ..^ 48

40. Do do 49

4 1 . Indian designs and manufactures 50

42. Indian ornaments and manufactures - 50

Note. — The above named views, portraits, and inscriptions, are careful representations of the originals. They were
drawn by H. B. Mollhauscn, artist to the expedition.

CHAPTER I.

Remarks regarding the localities, numbers, modes of subsistence, <&cn of various tribes

upon the route.

Of all the collateral branches to which our attention was directed by instructions from, the
department, the one now under consideration seems the most remotely connected with the main
object of the exploration. Nevertheless, a knowledge of the inhabitants of the various dis-
tricts traversed, and their usual mode of subsistence, whether by agriculture, by hunting, by
gathering wild fruits and roots, or by plunder of neighboring countries, will tend to elucidate
many facts regarding the characteristics and resources of that region, which our hasty recon-
naissance could not determine more directly. Besides, a comparison of the various tribes within
our borders, showing the effect produced upon each by the policy heretofore adopted by the
government, may be useful in determining the course to be pursued towards them in future.
In our dealings with this race, it is necessary to understand the peculiarities of their character,
and the motives that govern their actions. If it be found that they construe gifts received
from agents of the government as tribute paid from fear of their depredations upon emigrants
and settlers, that mode of dispensing favors will have to be discontinued. If pride appear to
be one of their characteristic traits, care must be taken not to trample upon it. If they pos-
sess manliness of spirit, are sensitive to expressions of contempt, and are grateful for consider-
ate kindness bestowed, our mode of intercourse should be regulated accordingly. If it should
be proved that those tribes, whom we have fostered for years with uniform consideration and
substantial benefits, have considerably progressed in civilization, we shall be encouraged, for
the sake of humanity, to extend the system which has produced such gratifying results ; and,
if this can be done at less cost to the national treasury than is required to chastise their aggres-
sions, or to govern them by the fear of a military force, another inducement Avill urge on the
benevolent work of enlightening this remnant of a numerous race. Many thousands of
benighted beings now exist under our government without realizing its benefits. When this
fact can be faithfully presented to the American people, much of the sympathy now bestowed
upon negroes will be turned toward the Indians, who have none of the religious privileges,
nor experience the careful protection, that the African enjoys. The aborigines arc, upon every
side, hemmed in by descendants of a foreign race. Year by year their fertile valleys are appro-
priated by others, their hunting-grounds invaded, and they themselves driven to narrower and
more barren districts. The time is now arrived when we must decide whether t hey are to be
exterminated: if not, the powerful arm of the law must be extended over them, to secure their
right to the soil they occupy ; to protect them from aggression ; to afford facilities and aid in
acquiring the arts of civilization, and the knowledge and humanizing influences of Christi-
anity.

The material collected, and briefly presented in the following pages, is not as full and precis
as could be desired. We passed through the territory of the Kaiowas and Comanohcs when

8

CLASSIFICATION OF THE TRIBES BORDERING UPON THE CANADIAN.

the greater portion of thern were north of our trail, pursuing the buffalo. The San Francisco
region was traversed in mid-winter, when its inhabitants had sought for more comfortable
qiiarters in the lower country, upon the waters of Rio Verde. Hence, with many tribes we
had less opportunity for personal observations than had been anticipated. But the notes which
could be taken without interfering with the main operations of the survey, are submitted,
in the hope that they may add something to the stock of information already before the depart-
ment.

The territory ceded by the government to the Choctaw Nation extends from the State of
Arkansas on the east, and the Canadian river upon the north, to the boundary of Texas upon
the south and west ; but only the eastern portion of it is actually occupied by this tribe. Seve-
ral Chickasaw villages are scattered through the central parts ; bands of Shawnees, Quapaws,
and Delawares are located midway upon the Canadian, and the western division is occupied by
various remnants of wilder tribes, such as Topofkees, Kichais, Kickapoos, Caddos, Huecos,
and Witchitas. Upon the northern side of the Canadian are Creeks, Quapaws, and Cherokees.
All of the above-mentioned have fixed habitations, and, to a greater or less extent, are engaged
in agriculture. Those that have been planted here under the care of the government, have
already made some progress in civilization ; supporting schools for the young, and cultivating
the arts. The remainder seem equally docile, and would doubtless adopt any well-digested
system that our government might choose to direct for their improvement.

Upon the western borders of the Choctaw country commences the vast range of the wild
Kaiowas and Comanches ; extending uninterruptedly along the Canadian to Tucumcari creek
and thence, occasionally, to Rio Pecos. From this line they pursue the buffalo northward as
far as the Sioux country, and on the south are scarcely limited by the frontier settlements of
Mexico, upon which their depredations are committed. The Comanches and Kaiowas are friends
and allies. A tribe of Lipans ranges over a portion of the same region, with indiscriminate
hostility both to Comanches and whites. They belong to the Apache nation, though in habits
and in appearance greatly resembling the Kaiowas.

The tribes above mentioned may be divided into three classes : the semi-civilized, the rude,
and the barbarous.

The first, according to the best evidence we have, consists of —

making an aggregate of about 62,000 persons, peaceful in their dispositions, and depending for
subsistence upon agriculture alone. They are characterized by docility, and have a desire to
learn and practise the manners, habits, and language of the whites. The labors of missiona-
ries among them have been crowned with success, and there appears to be no obstacle in the
way to prevent their complete civilization. The Shawnees and Delawares of this region do not
participate in the favors bestowed upon more northerly bands of their tribes, and therefore com-
plain that government overlooks their interests, as it bestows upon them neither annuities, as
to Choctaws, nor presents, such as are distributed among the hostile tribes of the prairies.
They evidently have an idea that the latter are given to the wild Indians as a kind of tribute,
from fear of their depredations ; and naturally murmur that they, who are always friendly to
the whites, should receive no assistance from them. It is believed that if government could

Choctaws

Chickasaws

Cherokees

Creeks and Seminoles

15,767 *
4,260 *
17,367 *
24,000 *

Quapaws .
Shawnees .
Delawares

200
325
200

0 Schoolcraft.

ESTIMATE OF POPULATION. — PUEBLO INDIANS.

9

evince a greater regard for the prosperity of those portions of the peaceful tribes who live on
the borders, the effect would be beneficial upon the roving bands.

Among those contiguous to our route, residing in the Choctaw or Creek territory, and
characterized as rude, the following are enumerated :

Topofkees 200

Kichais 500

Kickapoos 400

Caddoes 100

Huecos 400

Witchitas 500

Total 2,100

These remnants of tribes have much intercourse with, and are supposed to be considerably
influenced by, the semi-civilized class above alluded to. Probably they might easily be induced
to conform to their mode of life. Already they cultivate the soil to some extent, but, retaining
many of their old habits, are fond of hunting and a roving life, and commit occasional depreda-
tions upon their neighbors.

The third class, denominated barbarous, are the Arabs of the plains and the scourge of emi-
grants. According to the best information I could obtain, their numbers are as follows :*

Comanches , 20,000

Kaiowas 3,500

Lipans 6,500

amounting to 30,000 persons, one-fifth of whom are supposed to be warriors. They are perfect
types of the American savage, and to us appear more barbarous than the Spaniards considered
them at the end of the preceding century. f Hunting and war are their favorite pursuits.
Agriculture is esteemed a degradation, from which their proud natures revolt ; their dependence
for subsistence being upon game, and depreciations upon frontier settlements. So haughty is
their spirit, and so great their contempt for white men, that it is somewhat doubtful whether
they will ever be induced to accept civilization and a local habitation, instead of the unrestrained
freedom of their wild and lawless life.

Between the Comanche range and the Eio Grande are several fragments of roving bands
of Apaches, whose condition in 1799 is described in chapter vi. As they were not seen
upon our trail, and are not supposed to be numerous, they are passed over without further
remark.

The Pueblo Indians of New Mexico present a strong contrast to those previously noticed.
They remain living in towns, irrigating and cultivating the soil, nearly in the same manner as
was their custom previous to the period of the Spanish conquest. We first met bands of them
upon the Canadian river, where they were in search of Comanches for the purposes of trade.
They said their tribe was called " Tiguex" by Spaniards, but, in their own language, the
appellation was Ki'-o-wummi. They traced upon the ground a sketch of their country, with
the names and locations of the pueblos occupied in New Mexico — a copy of which (somewhat

* These estimates differ from those given in Mr. Schoolcraft's History. The latter are as follows: Comanches 27.000,
Kaiowas 3,500, Lipans 500 — amounting to 31,000. Mr. Burnet, in an interesting article upon this subject, ranks the Lipans
next to the Comanches. His estimates of numbers would, however, reduce the above by nearly one-half.

f See the description of Comanches in chapter vi.

2 i

10

OFFICIAL RECORDS AT SANTA FE'.

improved) is annexed. It is more particularly referred to in chapter in. With regard to their
numbers, it is difficult to form a satisfactory estimate.

Plate I.

Indian map showing the positions of the Pueblos in New Mexico.

In the report of Lieutenant Ahert is found an extract from an official statement of the popu-
lation of New Mexico, in which the Puehlo Indians are included. The following is a copy of it :

Extracts from the records in the State Department at Santa Fe.

[Translation.]

"Mariano Martinez de Lejanza, hrevet brigadier general and constitutional governor of the
department of New Mexico, to its inhabitants sends greeting : That the assembly of the depart-
ment has agreed to decree the following :

" The assembly of the department of New Mexico, in discharging the powers which are con-
ceded by the 134th article of the organic law of the republic, decrees the following :

' ' DIVISION OF THE DEPARTMENT.

" Article 1. The department of New Mexico, conformably to the 4th article of the constitution,
is hereby divided into three districts, which shall be called the Central, the North, and the
Southeast. The whole shall be divided into seven counties, and these into three municipalities.
The population, according to the statistics which are presented for this purpose, is 100,064.
The capital of this department is Santa Fe.

' 1 CENTRAL "DISTRICT.

" Art. 2. This district is hereby divided into three counties, which shall be called Santa Fe,
Santa Ana, and San Miguel del Bado. The capital of these three counties shall be the city of
Santa Fe.

POPULATION OF NEW MEXICO.

11

" Art. 3. The first county shall comprise all the inhabitants of Santa Fe, San Ildefonso,
Pojuaque, Nambe, Cuyamanque, Tezuque, Kio Tezuque, Sienega, Sieneguilla, Agua Fria,
Galisteo, El Real del Oro, and Tuerto. The county-seat is Santa Fe. The number of inhabit-
ants is 12,500.

" Art. 4. The second county shall comprise the inhabitants of Rayada, Cochite, Pena Blanca,
Chilili, Santo Domingo, Cobero, San Felipe, Jemez, Silla, Santa Ana, Angostura, and Algo-
dones. The number of inhabitants is 10,500. The county-seat is fixed at Algodones.

" Art. 5. The third county shall comprise the inhabitants of Pecos, Grusano, Rio de la Vaca,
Mula, Estramosa, San Jose, San Miguel del Bado, Pueblo, Puerticito, Cuesto, Cerrito, Anton
Chico, Tecalote, Vegas, and Sepillo. Inhabitants 18,800. The county-seat shall be San Miguel.

"northern district.

" Art. 6. This district is divided into two counties, called Rio Arriba and Taos. The capital
is Los Luceros.

"Art. 7. The county of Rio Arriba comprises the inhabitants of Santa Cruz de la Canada,
Chimayo, Canada, Truchas, Santa Clara, Vegas, Chama, Cuchillo, Abiquiu, Rito Colorado, Ojo
Caliente, Ranchitos, Chamita, San Juan, Rio Arriba, Joya, and Embuda. The county-seat is
Los Luceros. The number of inhabitants is 15,000.

"Art. 8. The county of Taos comprises the inhabitants of Don Fernandez, San Francisco,
Arroyo Hondo, Arroyo Seco, Desmontes, Sineguilla, Pecuries, Santa Barbara, Zampas, Chami-
zal, Llano, Penasco, Moro, Huerfano, and Cemmaron. The county-seat is Don Fernandez.
The number of inhabitants amounts to 14,200.

" southeastern district.

"Art. 9. This district is divided into two counties, called Valencia and Bernalillo. The
capital is Valencia.

" Art. 10. The county of Valencia comprises Valencia, San Fernando, Tome, Socoro, Limetar,
Polvaderas, Sabinal, Elames, Casa Colorada, Cebolleta, Sabino, Parida, Luis Lopez, Belen,
Lunes, Lentes, Zuni, Acoma, and Rito. County-seat Valencia. Number of inhabitants 20,000.

"■Art. 11. The county of Bernalillo comprises Isleta, Padilla, Pajarito, Ranchos de Atrisco,
Atrisco, Placeres, Albuquerque, Alemeda, Corrales, Sandia, and Bernalillo. County-seat,
Bernalillo. Number of inhabitants 8,204. The whole number of inhabitants of the district,
28,204.

" This decree shall be made known to the governor, that he may carry it into execution.

"JESUS MARIA GALLEGOS, President.

1 1 Juan Baptista Vigil y Muris, Secretary.

" By virtue of the premises, I command that this act be published, circulated, and made
known, to all whom it may concern, for its most active observance and fulfilment.
" Palace of the government, Santa Fe.

" MARIANO MARTINEZ.

"Jose Felix Jubia, Secretary.
"June 11, 1844."

It is probable that, since 1844, very little change has occurred in the number of Pueblo
Indians. Therefore, by dividing the aggregate, so as to give each town its proportion, we may
obtain an approximate estimate of the Indian population. In the following table this has been
attempted.

12

POPULATION OF VILLAGES AND PUEBLOS 0 NEW MEXICO.

TABLE.

Santa F£

4, 500

Kan Tlrlpfonwo

500

Poj Uaq 116

500

500

f ■iivMintrmip

400

TcZUQUG

700

Bio Tezuque

900
500

Siena^uilla

300

A^ua Fria

500

Galisteo

1, 200

El Eeal

1,000

Tuerto - - —

1, 000

Bayada

1, 100

Cochite'

900

Befla Blanca

1,200

Chilili

800

Ran Domingo

800

Cobero .

1,000

Kan Felipe

800

Jemez

450

Silla

450

Santa Ana

500

Angostura

1,000

Algodoncs -- —

1,500

Pecos, (at present de-

serted)

Gusano -

1,400

Bio de la Vaea

1,500

Mula-- ---

1,000

Estramosa

1,500

San Jose'

1,500

San Migxiel del Bado..

1,800

Pueblo

1,500

Puertieito

800

12,500

10,500

Cuesto

1, 200

800

Anton Chico

1,500

1,000

Vegas

1,800

Sepillo

1,500

Santa Cruz de la Can-

ada

900

900

Canada -

650

Truchas

900

Santa Clara

600

Vegas

1,500

Chama

900

Cuchillo

900

Abiquiu

1,800

Bito Colorado

500

Ojo Caliente

500

Banchitos

900

Chamita

900

San Juan

500

Bio Arriba

900

Jova

900

Embnda

850

Don Fernandez

2,000

San Francisco -

1,000

Arroyo Hondo

700

Arroyo Seco

700

Desmontes

800

Sineguilla

700

Bicurie's

800

Santa Barbara

1, 000

Zampas

900

Chamizal

900

Llano

900

18,800

15, 000

Beiiasco - .. 900

Moro 900

Huerfano 900

Cemmaron 900

14,200

Valencia 1, 500

San Fernando de Taos. 800

Tome- 1,000

Socoro 1,500

Limitar 1,000

Polvaderas 800

Sabinal 1, 000

Elames 800

Casa Colorada 900

Ccbolleta.-- 1,000

Sabino - - - 800

Parida 800

Luis Lopez 800

Belen 800

Lunes 800

Lentes 800

Zufii 2,000

Acoma 1.200

Bito 500

20,000

Isleta 800

Padilla .'. 500

Bajarita 500

Banchos dc Atrisco 100

Atrisco..- 800

Placcres 500

Albuquerque 3, 000

Alemeda 800

Corrales 200

Sandia 500

Bernalillo 504

8,204

From the preceding results, we derive the following table of the probable numbers of Tiguex
and other Indians of New Mexico, occupying the twenty-one towns represented upon the
sketch :

Pueblo de Taos, 800

" de Picuries, 800

" San Ildefonso, 500

" Pojuaque, 500

" San Juan, 500

Nambe, 500

Cuyamanque, 400

Tezuque, TOO

Santa Clara, 600

Cochin, 800

San Domingo, 800*

San Felipe, 800|

Sandia, 500f

II Isleta, 800f

Jemez, 450*

I

Santa Ana, 500

Silla, 450

Pecos, none

Chilili, 900

La Laguna, 800J

Acoma, 1,200 §

Zufii, 2,000 1|

15,300

According to the above statement, twenty-one pueblos, at present occupied, contain 15,300

* Estimate by Captain Simpson. f Estimate. % Estimate by Simpson and others.

§ Estimate founded on Alert's description. || Gregg, Simpson, Leroux, and others.

PUEBLO INDIANS. — NAVAJOS. — MAQUINOS.

13

persons ;* equal to about one-sixth of the whole population of the Territory. For the greater
part of two centuries they have "been characterized by peaceful dispositions, and noted for honesty
and sohriety. They regularly till the soil, and have sufficient foresight to make seasonable
provision for all their necessities. Although most friendly in their intercourse with their white
neighbors, they live exclusively hy themselves, and neither intermarry with, nor adopt the
habits of, any other race. They appear to rejoice in the change from Mexican to American rule,
and anticipate a return to them of the prosperity which their traditions commemorate as
belonging to the Saturnalian or Montezuma era.

West of Rio Grande, we enter the country of the Navajos. They extend northward from our
route to Rio San Juan, valley of Tune Cha, and Canon de Chelle ; occupying a region some
15,000 square miles in extent. Within the fertile valleys they cultivate wheat, corn, and
vegetables ; and upon the grassy plains graze numerous flocks and herds. Their hunting-
grounds extend upon the south as far as the headwaters of Rio Gila. For weaving blankets,
this band of the Apache tribe is famous ; but they are not known to be expert in any other
branch of arts. The number of the ISFavajos is variously stated — 10,000 being the estimate of
Gregg, which is probably nearly correct. Formerly, they were troublesome neighbors to the
inhabitants of New Mexico ; but since the establishment of a military post at Fort Defiance,
under the command of an officer who understands Indian character, and is able at once to com-
mand their esteem and respect, few depredations have been committed. They appear to be
making advancement in peaceful pursuits, and bid fair to hecome willing recipients of civili-
zation.

West from the Navajos, and in the fork between the Little and the Big Colorados, lies the
country of the Moquinos — a people famous in Spanish history as well for their devotion to
liberty and successful valor in resisting foreign aggression, as for their hospitality, integrity
of character, and attention to agriculture. In many respects, they assimilate to the people of
Zuni, with whom they ever maintain friendly relations. The situation of Moqui seems to be
within wide and fertile valleys, lying near the base of mountains where are found the sources
of various tributaries to the Colorado Chiquito. A few isolated portions of a high table-land
remain in the vicinity of their fields, and upon the tops are the ancient pueblos, which, for
centuries, have been considered remarkable monuments of Indian art.

The following are the names of the seven pueblos of Moqui. The estimate of the population
is by Mr. Leroux, who has been among them :

Names.

O-rai-be

Shu-miith-pa . .

Mu-sh'ai-i-na

Ah-le"-la

Gual-pL_-_

Shi-wm-na

Te'-quaf

Whole number.

In Zuiii language.

U-le-6-wa

Shu-muth-pai-6-wa.

Mu-shai-e-ndw-a

Ah-le-la

Wathl-pl-e

Shl-win-e-wa

Te'-e'-wun-na

Number of

Total popula

warriors.

tion.

400

2,400

150

!)00

150

900

150

900

150

900

20

120

100

600

1, 120

6,720J

Remarks. — In the spelling of Indian words, the vowels have the Spanish sounds ; a like ah— c as a in fate ; o like o in
note ; u like oo in food ; but where a letter is marked thus, u the sound is short.

* Since writing the above, I have noticed, in Mr. Schoolcraft's History, an estimate of the population of the pueblos of
New Mexico, by which the aggregate is between 11,000 and 12,000.

t Probably should be Tiguex, one of the ancient tribes of Rio del Norte.

%I perceive in Mr. Schoolcraft's history (volume 1) different names for most of these pueblos, and a larger estimate ol
the population.

14

COYOTEROS. — PINAL LENAS. — TONTOS. — YAMPAIS.

Between the Colorado Chiquito and Bio Gila roam two bands of Apaches, called Coyoteros
and Pinal Leilas, consisting probably of 300 warriors, or 1,500 persons each. They live
among the mountains, and occasionally cultivate patches of soil, producing wheat, corn, and
squashes. In one instance a field of cotton was discovered near their rancherias. However,
not being fond of quiet pursuits, they subsist partly upon roasted mescal and pinon nuts, which
they find in their wanderings, and place their main dependence for support upon forays into
Sonora, proving a great scourge to the Mexican frontier. They are not wanting in native
shrewdness, and, though generally hostile to parties of white men whom they may meet, they
have been known to receive Americans into their country with kindness and hospitality. There
are some fine valleys and many fertile spots within their limits, and, if they were willing to
work, they well know how to subsist without plunder.

We now reach the San Francisco mountains, and enter the hunting-grounds of the Cosninos.
They are said to roam northward to the big bend of the Colorado. The vast region toward the
south, lying between Bio Verde and the Aztec range of mountains, isoccupied by Tontos ; while
west and northwest of that range, to the mouth of Bio Virgen, are found a tribe calling them-
selves Yabipais, or, as sometimes written, Yampais. Their numbers are estimated at 2,000
each. Leroux and Savedra believe these three to be allied tribes ; but there exists some doubt
upon the subject. The language of the latter proves that they have an affinity with the Mojaves
and Cuchans of Bio Colorado ; while, according to Don Jose Cortez, the Tontos belong to the
Apache nation. I have myself found Tonto villages intermingled with those of Pinal Lenas,
north of Bio Gila, with whom they lived on friendly terms, with like customs and habits ;
except that they subsisted almost exclusively upon mescal and pinones,* and possessed none of
the fruits of agriculture. Yet the country they now occupy shows traces of ancient acequias,
and has extensive valleys of great fertility, which might again be cultivated.

Mr. Leroux, on his return from California to New Mexico in May 1854, followed the river
Gila from its mouth to the Pima village ; and thence crossing over to the junction of the Salinas
with Bio Verde, ascended the latter stream for some distance, and crossed from it to our trail upon
Flax river, f He represents Bio Verde J as a fine large stream ; in some cases rapid and deep, in
others spreading out into wide lagoons. The ascent was by gradual steppes, which, stretching
into plains, abounded in timber — pine, oak, ash, and walnut. The river banks were covered with
ruins of stone houses and regular fortifications ; which, he says, appeared to have been the
work of civilized men, but had not been occupied for centuries. They were built upon the most
fertile tracts of the valley, where were signs of acequias and of cultivation. The walls were of
solid masonry, of rectangular form, some twenty to thirty paces in length, and yet remaining
ten or fifteen feet in height. The buildings were of two stories, with small apertures or loop-
holes for defence when besieged. From his description, the style of building seems to be simi-

e Pinones are edible nuts, from a species of pine tree which grows abundantly in this region,
f Iiio Colorado Chiquito.

X This river is called by Mr. Antoine Leroux, Eio San Francisco. He passed along it with a small party in the summer
of 1854. The following description of the country and the rivers referred to has been kindly furnished to accompany this
report :

Extract from Leroux' s Journal, on his last trip from Pueblo de los Angeles, California, to New Mexico.
" May 16. 1854. — This morning left Rio Gila, and camped on Rio Salado.

" May 17. — Camp on Rio San Francisco. From last camp here, road hilly and stony ; wood, grass, and water plenty.
During the day we saw and examined the ruins of some abandoned Indian villages.

" May 18. — Camp on Han Francisco. To-day, tolerably good road, wood plenty, splendid water, and grass rich. Woods
are the walnut, cotton, locust, sycamore and willow trees.

•'May 19. — Camp on San Francisco. Road pretty good, but we were obliged to ford the river about ten times. Wood,
water, and grass in abundance.

"May 20. — Camp on San Francisco. Boad hilly and stony, but still easy enough to travel. Water splendid ; grass plenty ;
cotton-wood, ash, sycamore, &c, in quantities.

"May 21. — Camp on San Francisco. While nooning in the morning, wc were struck by the beauty of some ruins, very
likely those of some Indian town, and being in the centre of an open valley. The walls of the principal building, forming

»

RUINS OF ANCIENT PUEBLOS. 15

lar to the chichiticale, or red house, above the Pimas, rather than like the Indian towns of New
Mexico. In other respects, however, Leroux says that they reminded him of the great pueblos
of the Moquinos. The large stones of which those structures were built, were often transported
from a great distance. At another place he saw a well-built town and fortification about eight
or ten miles from the nearest water. He believes that, since they were built, the conformation
of the country has been changed, so as to convert springs and a fertile soil into a dry and barren
waste. The idea is not a new one; Capt. Simpson advances something like it. This conforms
to the Indian traditions of the Montezuma era, attributing to the high mesas an arable soil ;
and also partially accounts for the desertion of some of the more recent pueblos of New Mexico.

Upon the Colorado Chiquito (Flax river) were extensive traces of ancient ruins, some of which
have been well represented in a report by Captain Sitgreaves. The Cosnino caves had been plaster-
ed with mortar, showing more artistic skill than is practised by the present occupants of the
country. At Pueblo creek were found remains of towns and of fortifications crowning the sur-
rounding heights, and overlooking Aztec Pass there are similar ruins. Westward, down
Williams river to Kio Colorado and thence to the Pacific, no vestige of such ruins was seen.
Yet means of subsistence are not wanting. There are fertile spots and permanent water in the
valleys.

In the vicinity of Williams river, game is abundant ; the rocky cliffs and barren-looking hills
produce maguey plants ; multitudes of the fruit-bearing cereus giganteus and mezquites grow
in the valley ; affording a sufficient supply of the usual Indian food. The inference, therefore,
seems to be, that the belt of country previously crossed was indeed the track of the ancient
pueblo builders ; and that, according to tradition, they proceeded from the northwest to the upper
waters of Eio Colorado. There they divided ; portions ascended by the San Juan, Canon de
Chelle, or the more easterly branches of that stream, toward the centre of New Mexico ; others,
passing over to the waters of " Eio Verde," descended its valley to Rio Grila, and thence con-
tinued, perhaps, to the present city of Mexico. This theory of migration is considered nearly
obselete, and ought not to be revived, provided another, more probable, may be suggested for
the desertion of the ruins in the regions referred to. Upon the lower part of Rio Colorado no
traces of permanent dwellings have been discovered. The same remark is applicable to Rio
Grila below the junction of the Salinas, although upon the rocks there are many inscriptions
similar to those found near Zuni and at Rocky Dell creek.

The tribe that now occupies the region from Pueblo creek to the junction of Rio Verde with
the Salinas is called Tonto. The word in Spanish signifies stupid, but Mexicans do not apply
that signification to these Indians ; on the contrary, they consider them rather sharp, particu-
larly at stealing. Therefore, as it is not a term of reproach, we may reasonably suppose that,
as is frequently the case, it is the Indian name corrupted, perhaps, by Spanish spelling. It is

a long square, are in some places twenty feet high and three feet thick, and have in many places loop-holes like those of a
fortress. The walls were as regularly huilt as those of any building erected by civilized nations ; to judge by the decay of
the stones, these ruins might be several centuries old, (maybe those of some Montezuma town.) Heaps of broken and
petrified vessels are strewn in all directions. Near camp are the ruins of another Indian village. Those ruins show thai
this country was once under cultivation; who were its inhabitants, and what became of them, is hard to tell. Road
hilly, but of easy access everywhere. Grass and water in abundance.

"May 22. — Camp on San Francisco. Road very hilly, but practicable ; plenty of wood and water. To-day we ascended
and descended two high mountains (a pied) which looked just like tho crossing of the Alps. Our camp is on a ridge of a
most delightful valley, having the river to our left, gigantic rocky mountains on both sides, and under centenary trees.

"May 22 and 23. — Camp on San Francisco. Road good, grass plenty, and wood in abundance as well as water. On the
night of the 22d we had an attack from seme Indians, called the Tontos of the Yampais nation. Although a quantity of
arrows were shot into camp, still neither men nor animals were wounded.

"May 24. — Camp on a small creek. Left Rio San Francisco this morning. The creek we are camped on runs between two
chains of very steep and rocky mountains. In the afternoon we crossed a mountain about 1,500 feet high; the crossing
was performed in two hours.

"The creek we are camped on is a tributary of the Rio San Francisco, and runs into it from the east. Road tolerably
good, grass plenty, and water and wood in abundance. The district passed over is mostly covered with old ruins. "

16

TONTOS. — TRIBES OF THE COLORADO.

a coincidence worth noting, that when Father Marco de Nica, in 1539, was in search of the
kingdom of Cevola, (now Zuiii,) he met an Indian from that place, who gave him information
of several great nations and pueblos. After having described Cevola, the friar adds : " Like-
wise he saith that the kingdom of Totonteac lieth towards the west ; a very mighty province,
replenished with infinite store of people and riches." The position indicated, west from Zuui,
would apply to Pueblo creek, and it would be an easy corruption for the name Totonteac to pass
into Tonto. Don Jose Cortez, as may be seen in chapter vi, calls them Apaches ; but Sevedra,
Platk 2. who is a well-informed Mexican, and, having been much

CJiem- tfliiu-vitz

I'Sual-jmich,

''Mabhat-c-vatch

Ca-liualcliitz

among wild tribes of Indians, is generally considered au-
thority in whatever relates to them, says that Tontos are
Indians of Montezuma, like those of the pueblos of New
Mexico. Pimas, Maricopas, Cuchans, and Mojaves, also, he
adds, belong to the same great nation. In proof of this, he
asserts that they all have one custom — that of cropping the
front hair to meet their eyebrows,* suffering the rest, back of
their ears, to grow and hang down its full length.

The Colorado river flows throtigh a superb valley, which,
since its first exploration by Alarcon in 1540, has been
occupied, and, to a considerable extent, cultivated by tribes
having a fixed residence and permanent abodes. They have
no wandering propensities, and never have degenerated to
the barbarous condition of the Apache nation and the Snake
tribe of Indians. The accompanying sketch of this country is
from a tracing upon the ground by a Yuma (Cuchan) Indi-
an, giving the names and positions of various tribes as indi-
cated by him.

Yuma map of Rio Colorado, with the names and ]ocation Th exigtence Qf several of these tribes appears to be
of tribes within its valley. 1 r

known to Indians only. The same names were given to
me in 1849, by the chief of the Yumas, at the mouth of the Rio Grila. Their population could
not be ascertained from him.

The sketch which follows was traced by the chief of the Chemehuevis, who makes no mention
of a mingling of other tribes with the Cuchans and Mojaves :

Plate 3.

Pai-ute Map of Rio Colorado.
'■' There is not an exception to this rule among the Gila and Colorado Indians.

POPULATION OF THE COLORADO VALLEY.

17

A MojaVe guide, who accompanied us from his village to the Mormon road, was skillful in
communicating ideas of numbers, and proved accurate in statements that we had means of
testing. We therefore endeavored to obtain from him certain statistics regarding his tribe.
There are five principal chiefs of the Mojave nation, each of whom we had seen at the head of
a band of warriors. Our guide informed us that Joaquin commanded 60 fighting men; Jose
Maria, 50 ; Ore, 80 ; Manuel, 80 ; Mezcal, 100. He said there were lesser captains like him-
self, each having the command of smaller numbers ; his own band consisting of five only. The
warriors above enumerated amount to 381. The whole number is somewhat greater. But,
according to our observations when among them, many of the able-bodied young men choose
to remain at home for the cultivation of their fields or the protection of the women, and, there-
fore, are not included among the warriors.

In order to get some idea of the rate of increase in the tribe, we asked concerning the wives
and children of various chiefs whom we knew. The result is exhibited in the following table :

Number of children.

Names of men.

Number of

wives.

Boys.

Girls.

Iratdba

1

0

1

Cai-ruk

4

0

1

2

1

2

2

1

G

Ore"

2

1

1

3

1

2

1

0

1

If it were safe to draw inferences from such limited data, females would appear to be more
numerous than males. Children seem to be less in number than adults ; giving evidence of a
gradual decay of the tribe. If this conclusion be correct, it is difficult to assign a reason for it.
The region they occupy is fertile, and its climate salubrious. They are vigorous and healthy,
and have plenty of food. Diseases are rare among them, and evidently they live to extreme
old age. They are more powerful than their neighbors, and have few enemies, except the
Coco-Maricopas, who are incapable of doing them much harm.

The following estimate of the number of Indians now residing in the Colorado valley, from
the Mojave villages down to the mouth of Kio Gila, is given by Mr. Leroux, based upon
personal observations during various passages through the country :

Name of tribe.

Number of
warriors.

Whole num-
ber.

600
300
500

4,000
1,500
3,000

Chemehuevis

Yumas, (Cuchans?) --

1,400

8,500

This estimate does not include the Cocopas, (3,000,) who live near the mouth of the Colorado,
nor the Yampais, (2,000,) now residing, as the Mojaves tell us, a short distance below the junction
of Williams river. Those added, would make the population of the Colorado valley, below
the Mojave villages, 13,500.

According to the manuscript report of Don Jose Cortes in 1709 — a portion of which will bo
found in chapter vi — the population of this valley was then as follows, viz :

18

COLORADO INDIANS. — PAH-UTAHS.

Talliguamayque 3,000

Cajuenches (Cuchans ?) 2,000

Yumas 3,000

Ta-ma-jabs (Mojaves ?) 3,000

Talchedums 3,000*

Cucapa (Cocopas ?) 3,000

Making in all 17,000

Therefore, supposing the above estimates both approximately correct, the number of Indians
in the Colorado valley has considerably diminished since the beginning of the present century.

To what has been related in the Itinerary, illustrative of the character of the Indians of this
valley, little will be added here. By all who have seen them, they are considered superior,
both in mental capacity and in physical development, to others of their race in this section of
the continent. Of their bravery our troops have had experience in a contest with the Yumas,
who are a branch from the same stock as the Mojaves ; but it is believed that they prefer peace to
war, and fight only upon their own soil for the preservation of their independence and the pro-
tection of their homes. It is true, they are extremely jealous of the presence of strangers among
them. The missions of San Pablo and San Pedro, established at the mouth of Rio Gila about
a century since, were tolerated for a short time only. The Indians, doubtless, suspected that
their liberties were menaced, and, therefore, put an end to those establishments, by killing the
priests and destroying their dwellings. About fifty or sixty years ago, some Spanish adven-
turers established a colony upon a portion of the wide and fertile bottom lands of the Colorado,
and, after a brief residence, experienced the same fate as the missionaries. From ten to fifteen
miles from the river, the ruins of their acequias, now overgrown with large mezquite trees,
are still visible. In 1849, numerous emigrants to California passed through this country, and
gave many accounts of the hostility of the Yumas. But, in investigating the causes of the
troubles, it appeared that the Americans, by appropriating the maize belonging to the Indians,
had been the first aggressors ; and that, too, after having received from the natives great assist-
ance in crossing the river. At this time government troops were sent to the Colorado, and, by
kind treatment of the Indians during a stay of two months, restored friendly relations between
them and the emigrants. Afterwards, a band of outlaws, from the frontiers of the United States
and Mexico, established a ferry below the mouth of Rio Gila, and imposed many restraints
and indignities upon the natives. The latter took advantage of their first opportunity, and
exterminated the party. This led to a contest with our troops, who, after several sanguinary
engagements, succeeded in restoring peace.

The rude, untutored savage, without doubt, believes that he has a right to the spot where
his wigwam stands — to the fields where his maize and melons grow — to the land which has
been cultivated by his forefathers since time immemorial. He can see no reason why he should
yield up his home and the graves of his ancestors to the first grasping white man who covets
the spot. If the privileges, which nature has led this people to expect, are not secured to them,
or some satisfactory compensation substituted, another Indian war may be the result, and the
tribes upon the Colorado annihilated. It is hoped that they may be saved from such a melan-
choly fate by the prompt and generous interference of the government.

West of Rio Colorado we enter the range of the widely extended Utah nation. Those that
roam over the region traversed by us, call themselves Paiutes,f and are closely allied to those
that massacred the party of the lamented Captain Gunnison. This band probably does not
number above 300 persons. Though supposed to maintain a scanty and precarious subsistence,

o No number is specified in the original manuscript ; but this tribe is represented as being about equal with the rest.

f Jos^ Cortez, in chapter vi, writes the name Payuches.

CAHUILLAS. — INDIAN POPULATION.

19

principally upon roots, they are probably distinct from the Diggers of California. We passed
through one little valley of theirs, at Paiute creek, where wheat and melons had been culti-
vated. Afterward we had another proof of their desire for substantial food. Though shy at
our approach, they hovered abont us at Soda lake, and finally committed the only act of hos-
tility experienced by our party on the route. A herder having lagged behind the train with
two tired mules, they killed him, and took the animals for food. We were unable to overtake
and punish them as they deserved. They will scarcely be civil again to small parties of emi-
grants until our troops shall have taught them a salutary lesson.

From the Mormon road to the base of Sierra Nevada are scattered the wilder portion of the
Cahuillas, who frequently make depredations upon the frontier ranchos of California. They
do not appear to be numerous, and probably do not exceed 500 in number. Formerly all of this
tribe belonged to the California missions. Since the decadence of those institutions, they have
been peons upon the ranchos, where many yet remain. It is not surprising that some prefer
to return to their primitive mode of life among the mountains, rather than submit to unmiti-
gated degradation amidst a civilized race.

General summary of the Indian population in the region contiguous to the route.

Semi-civilized, bordering the Canadian river 62,000

Eude " " " 2,100

Barbarous " " " 30,000

Pueblo Indians of New Mexico 15,300

Navajos 10,000

Moquinos 6,720

Pinal Leiias and Coyoteros 3,000

Tontos, Cosninos, and Yampais 6,000

Mojaves, Chemehuevis, and Cuchans 8,500

Pai-utes, near Soda lake 300

Cahuillas of the mountains 500

Total../. 144,420

CHAPTER II.

Indian Residences. — Portraits and Dress.

The semi-civilized Indians of the Choctaw territory occupy frame houses or log-cahins, such
as white men would erect under similar circumstances ; wanting only in that air of neatness
and refinement which indicates the presence of an Anglo-American woman. As a type of
these dwellings can he found everywhere within our new settlements upon the frontier, no
drawing is deemed necessary to give an idea of their appearance. In the Itinerary may he
found a description of some that were visited.

Beaverstown consists of a range of log houses, huilt hy troops, at old Camp Arbuckle, for tem-
porary quarters. When deserted hy the soldiers, a band of Delawares took possession ; although
the structures are inferior to those erected hy the Choctaws and Shawnees in their respective
Arillages.

Plate 4 represents a Kaiowa camp in the valley of the Canadian. The tents are formed
with light poles twelve feet in length, interlaced and tied near the top, and thence spreading so
as to intersect the ground in a circle. Over these are spread coverings made of nicely dressed
buffalo hides, the hair side being turned inward, and the exterior fancifully painted. The top
may be opened to give egress to smoke, or closed to exclude rain.

I'late 4-.

Kaiowa camp.

Plate 5 shows their method of packing the tents in changing the position of camp. The
poles are fastened to the sides of a horse, and allowed to drag upon the ground. Comanches
are said to make use of similar tents, except when hunting or at war. The camp which we

NOMADIC INDIANS. — PUEBLEROS.

21

saw upon Shady creek was composed of artificial bowers, formed with bent saplings and leafy-
twigs. There were hundreds of them of the same construction, evidently intended for merely
temporary use.

Plate 5.

Kaiowa Indians removing camp.

Plate 6 shows the construction of a range of houses in Zuni. It will answer also for a type
of such pueblo buildings as are at present occupied in New Mexico. By a reference to Coro-
nado's description of this place and people in 1540, it will appear that during three centuries no
appreciable change has taken place. Had the pueblo been buried like Pompeii, and at length
exhumed and its population resuscitated, there could not be a closer resemblance to the descrip-
tion of pioneer Spaniards than is now found between Zuni and the ancient Cibola. This,

Plate 6.

Zuni.

however, is but one of the seven towns of Cibola ; the others are in ruins, some of which arc at
El Moro, at Ojo Pescado, and at Arch spring. El Moro, under the name of Inscription Rock,
may be found minutely portrayed in Captain Simpson's report of the Navajo expedition. The
accompanying plate 7 gives a view from the top of the rock. For a full description of Acoma,
San Domingo, and other existing pueblos, it is sufficient to refer to Lieutenant Abert'B report

22 ANCIENT RUINS. — APACHE STRUCTURES.

of his examination in New Mexico. Our object is merely to call attention to the fact of then-
great antiquity and entire dissimilarity to the abodes of other Indian tribes upon our route.

Plate 7.

Ruins upon El Moio.

Plate 8 represents an Apache wigwam, as rude, it is believed, as any race of human beings
have been known to construct for abodes. These huts are usually isolated in some mountain

Plate 8.

Apache wigwam.

gorge, near a rivulet or spring, and are composed of broken branches of trees. They are
covered with weeds, grass, or earth, such as may be obtained most readily. A large flat or

RUINS. — MOJAVE DWELLINGS.

23

concave stone, upon which they grind corn or grass seed to flour, is the only utensil or article of
furniture that they do not remove in their wanderings. Visits to the houses of Mexicans, or
their more enterprising Indian neighbors, excite no desire to improve their condition hy the erec-
tion of more comfortable hahitations. Tents they do not use, even when rohhed from Mexicans
or some poor party of emigrants surprised and murdered. The Tontos, Yampais, and most of
the Apache Indians within New Mexico and California are equally harharous and rude in the
construction of their hahitations.

Plate 9 is intended to give some idea of the faint traces of ancient aclohe dwellings, as they
now frequently appear in the Zuhi country, upon Rio Gila, upon Puehlo creek, upon the
Colorado Chiquito (Flax river) and at other places in the vast region hetween longitudes
108 and 113, and hetween 32° and 35-§° north latitude. Large fields in the valley of Rio Gila,
and many spots among the Pinal Lena mountains, are thus marked with the foundations of
decayed adohe houses. In Canon de Chelly, near the San Francisco mountains, and upon
Rio Verde, there are ruins of more permanent structures of stone, which in their day must have
excelled the famed puehlos of New Mexico. Those found near the cascades of the Colorado
Chiquito are represented in Captain Sitgreaves's report. Others have already heen referred to
in the Itinerary.

Plate 9.

Vestiges of ancient dwellings.

Plate 10 represents one of the dwellings of the Mojaves. The large Cottonwood posts, and
the suhstantial roof of the wide shed in front, are characteristic of the architecture of this
people. This particular house appears to run into a sand-hank, and is peculiar. Others are
formed in the valley, with all their walls supported hy posts ; and the longitudinal hcams
have their interstices filled up with straw or mud mortar. Tbe cylindrical structure in front is
tastefully made of osier twigs, and thatched so as to he impervious to rain. It is used as a store-
house for grain and fruit of the mezquite. The large earthen jar, figured by the side of the
granary, is also a receptacle for corn. The interior of the houses consists of a single room with
thatched roof, sandy floor, and walls so closely cemented hy mud as to he nearly air-tight. It
has no window, and receives no light except hy the door which leads to the shed, and by a small
hole at the top which gives egress to the smoke of fires. Structures similar to this are common
throughout the lower portion of the Colorado valley, and may he found also among the (Wo-
Maricopas and Pimas of Rio Gila. With the latter, however, the circular hut, described by
Mr. Bartlett, is much in vogue. In such gloomy aboles the Indians seek shelter from cold.

24 MO J AVE STRUCTURES. — CHOCTAW DRESS.

Arranged around the walls, are large earthen jars, in which they preserve their main supply
of fruits and vegetables. Plate 10.

Mojave dwellinj.

Plates 11 and 12 represent Choctaws. Their dress is fanciful, showing a fondness for bright

Plate 11.

ClKtctawa.

CHOCTAWS. — DEESS AND ORNAMENTS.

25

colors and silver ornaments. Pendants of beads or shells are frequently attached to the ears,
nose, or neck. The hair is sometimes cropped in front, to reach to the eyebrows ; and red or
blue paint is generally used to beautify their faces. A favorite style of wearing it is in half
circles beneath the eyes. The moustache is not worn, nor is there the appearance of a beard.

Plate 12.

Shawuccs.

4 i

26

SHAWNEES. — DRESS AND ORNAMENTS.

The features are rounded, and the cheek-bones have not the prominence which characterizes
western prairie Indians. The eyes are large, oval, and brilliant; and, though not blue,
have the mild expression that belongs to that color.

Plates 13 and 14 are portraits of Shawnees who live upon the right bank of the Canadian,

Plate 14.

opposite the mouth of Little river. Although further from the Avhite settlements, they seem
not less advanced in civilization than the Choctaws. They dress less gaudily, and care little
for other ornaments than silver ear-rings, finger-rings, and brooches of their own manufacture,

Plat.3 15. Plate 16.

Black Beaver.

Uulawaru device.

DELAWARES. — HTJECOS.

27

some of which are executed with taste and skill. The hair is parted in front, or cut so as to
fall loosely upon the neck. Moustaches are usually worn hy the men. The women are neater
and better looking than the Choctaws.

Plate 15 is a portrait of Black Beaver, the chief of a hand of Delawares living between the
Shawnees and Kichais. Black Beaver is an invalid, and hardly a fair type of his people.
They are much like the Shawnees, although the latter are better looking. In both bands there
are many who wear a moustache. The accompanying figure, represented in plate 16, is a fac-
simile of an image tattooed upon Black Beaver's arm. Whether it was merely a fanciful device
of the artist, or some sacred emblem of Indian superstition, could not be learned.

Plate 17 represents two savages of theHueco tribe whom we met upon the prairie south of the

Plate 17.

Hueco Indians.

Canadian. They have high cheek-bones, and a wild look, (which the artist has failed to rep-
resent,) totally different from the quiet features of those representing the preceding tribes. Their
loose hair is uncropped. Feathers, tied to a lock at the crown of the bead, float with the breeze.

28

KICHAIS— COMANCHES. — KAIOWAS.

They are armed with how and quiver of arrows ; wear "blankets wrapped around their loins, and
huckskin sandals upon their feet. Kichai Indians afterward visited us, hut we saw ahout them
no characteristics differing from Huecos.

Plate 18 represents a couple of Comanches, wrapped in blankets, girdled with cords, and on
horseback. One is figured in the act of speaking by signs. They are armed with hows and
arrows, and are without moccasins. They are expert horsemen, ride gracefully and rapidly,
with no other equipments than the simple raw-hide noose represented. However, they are not
averse to using hoth saddle and bridle, whenever in their marauding expeditions they can ohtain
possession of them. Their features are sharp ; nose long ; eyes small, black, and sparkling.
Their furtive glances express cunning, if not treachery.

Plate 18.

Comanches.

Plate 19 is intended to represent Kaiowas upon a hunt. We gave them a cow, and they said
they would show us how they killed buffalo. Therefore, mounting horses, they first goaded
the poor cow to madness, and then pursued her. The scene is sufficiently indicated, except
that the artist has transformed the game into that which we were desired to imagine.
There appears to be no characteristic difference between the Kaiowas and Comanches. It is
• prohable that they are hoth branches of the "Snake" tribe. Our vocabularies of their languages,
which Professor Turner is examining, will determine the fact. The Kaiowas* wear "blankets
wrapped around their bodies, in the toga style. They are excessively fond of ornaments of
iridescent shells, of silver, and of hrass, such as are represented in the chapter upon Indian
arts. They wear enormous head-dresses made of feathers, with long trails behind, ornamented
with circular plates of silver. Yellow ochre is the favorite tint for hesmearing their faces, and
vermillion is used to color the head where the hair is parted. Like the Comanches, they suffer

c The Indians and Mexicans sometimes pronounce the name as if written Kayaguas. I have seen it so spelled.

KAIOWAS — PUEBLO INDIANS.

29

the hair to fall loosely behind, and sometimes clip a lock or two in front, that it may not cover
their eyes. As a class they are lank, lean, and hony, with small eyes, piercingly black and
fiendish. Their shoulders are broad and limbs muscular. They seem to me of lighter com-
plexion than most of the tribes west of the Del Norte.

Plate 19.

Kaiowa buffalo chase.

Plate 20 gives sketches of Pueblo Indians of San Domingo. Their features express mildness
and a considerable share of intelligence. A blanket, loosely wrapped around the body, is a

Plate 20.

Governor and other Indians of the pueblo of San Domingo, N. M.

30 ZUNIANS. — DRESS AND ORNAMENTS.

favorite article of dress. The hair is rudely clipped or parted upon the forehead, and falls
hehind upon the shoulders. Sometimes it is braided and bound into a queue. A tiara or band
is frequently worn around the head. This people do not appear to have an excessive regard for
ornaments ; the women are content with a string of beads and a cross.

Plate 21 represents a chief and a warrior of the pueblo of Zuni. The chief holds in his hands
a spear and a chimal. The latter, however, is in truth atrophy won from theNavajos, and not
of Zuni manufacture. It is made of bull-hide, curiously painted in colors, and nearly surrounded

Plate 21.

ZuBi Indians.

by a strip of red cloth trimmed with feathers. These shields are impervious to arrows, and
frequently hard enough to turn aside a ball. The gay colors and waving trails of cloth and
feathers are supposed to be useful as well as ornamental. In battle the Indians are not quiet
for a moment, but, with constantly bended knees, leap rapidly from side to side, waving their
shield and its long streamers, for the purpose of dazzling the eyes of their adversaries. Apaches
are said to oil their joints before going to battle, in order to make them supple.

CO

O

<:
>

ZUNIANS. — NAVAJOS. — TONTOS.

31

The ZuSians have eyes darker and more piercing than Choctaws. Their dress consists usually
of huckskin hunting-shirts and fringed moccasins. Their mode of cropping and dressing the
hair is nearly the same as that practised hy other Puehlo Indians ; sometimes it is parted upon
the forehead and confined hy a hand. It is to he regretted that we ohtained no portrait of the
white Indians of Zuni; hut the small-pox heing prevalent among them, it was deemed impru-
dent to visit their houses. Some of them, however, were seen ; having light or auburn hair, fair
complexions, and hlue eyes. It is remarkahle that the first Indian from Zuni seen hy Father de
Nica in 1539, is described as a ' 'white man of fair complexion. ' ' A few of that type have existed
there ever since.

Plate 22 is intended to represent Navajos. The sketch is given as furnished hy the artist;
though, excepting the striped "blanket of Navajo manufacture, the portraits differ little from
those of the Puehlo Indians. One is represented with hair cut squarely in front to the eye-
hrows — a custom not heretofore attributed to any of the Apache race. The Navajos are distin-

Plate 23.

Tonlos.

32

TONTOS. — YAMPAIS. — PAIUTES.

guished from all other tribes of Indians, and even from the more southern hands of Apaches,
by the fullness and roundness of their eyes. There is something of a " wide-awake " expression
about them, which is peculiarly characteristic. In the manufacture of blankets, and in cultiva-
tion of the soil, they are far superior to other bands of their tribe, and compare favorably
even with the famed Pimas of Bio Gila. There is a considerable personal resemblance between
these tribes, though the latter are taller and finer looking. It is believed that, in color, Nava-
jos and Pimas are a shade less dark than other bands of New Mexican Indians. Specimens of
the Navajo blanket were obtained for the Indian Bureau. In closeness of texture, they are
scarcely excelled even by the labored and costly serapes of Mexico and South America.

Plate 23 exhibits portraits of Tonto Indians. Their appearance, according to the sketch,
certainly indicates stupidity sufficient to render their name appropriate. But our guide, who
had been among them, and known their reputation for thieving, said that they were neither
stupid nor foolish, but, on the contrary, remarkably shrewd. Some allowance ought, perhaps,
to be made for their situation ; being prisoners, and supposing themselves under sentence of
death, while their portraits were being taken. One is represented with naked limbs and bare
feet, the picture of poverty. A torn shred of Navajo blanket and a fine bow with arrows are
all that he possesses. His hair is rudely clipped in front. The other is dressed in ragged
buckskin, with a band around his head.

The Yampais that we saw in the same region had the appearance of more intelligence than those
before us. We neglected to sketch them, expecting to see others ; but none came near us again.

Plate 24 contains sketches of Paiutes or Chemehuevis Indians of Eio Colorado. They are a

Plate 24.

Chemehuevis Indians. (Pah-Utahs.)

portion of the great Pah-Utah nation, and have a language entirely distinct from the tribes by
which they are surrounded. In other respects, however, they assimilate to their neighbor*,
with whom they live in amity. Agriculture is their main pursuit ; hunting an occasional
pastime. Their bow is characteristic of the tribe to which they belong, being of bois-d' arc,
elegantly curved, bound with sinews, and frequently ornamented at one end by the skin or rattle

>

o

INDIANS OF EIO COLORADO. — ORNAMENTS AND DRESS. 33

of a snake. They are less majestic in figure than are the Mojaves and Yurnas ; their eyes are
small ; their hair is clipped in front, and usually gathered behind by a narrow band, from
which it hangs loosely down the back. Their native dress consists simply of a bark petticoat
for women, and a breech-cloth for men, each girded upon the loins by a cord. Infants are
bound to a' board, and have over their heads a cradle-like cover made of osier twigs. Thr.
hands are not confined, however,, and the constraint does not seem irksome to the child.
Partly to this practice may be ascribed the erect and faultless form for which the Colorado
Indians are distinguished.

Plate 25 represents Mojaves and the style in which they paint themselves. Their pigments
are ochre, clay, and probably charcoal, mingled with oil. Blue marks tattooed upon a woman's
chin denote that she is married. The skirt consists of two distinct articles ; the back part being
composed simply of a mass of strips of the inner bark of Cottonwood, united to a string which
passes around the hips, while the apron is of twisted cords made of vegetable fibres, in various
colors, hanging loosely from the girdle, to which they are bound. A belt, like those of Pima
manufacture, is also wound around the body. Both men and women delight in wearing upon
their necks coils of wampum composed of shells cut into circular discs, with holes drilled through
the centre, by which they are strung. Married women also frequently wear a single bivalve
shell curiously wrought. Eagles' feathers, tied to a lock of hair, are worn only by men. Nose-

Plate 25.

Mojavts.

jewels designate a man of wealth and rank. The principal chiefs have elaborate feather head-
dresses. The artist has hardly done justice to the precision with which this people trim and
dress their hair. Mojaves, like Pimas, Maricopas, and Yumas, pay special attention to this part
of their toilet, all cutting squarely to the eyebrows iu front, and the men taking great pride in
the length and smoothness of the plaits that fall down upon the back. Vermin are destroyed
by matting the hair with clay, which is worn for two or three days. The head is then sub-
5 i

34

CALIFORNIA INDIANS.

jectcd to a thorough washing in the river, and again appears in the superb covering which
nature has afforded. This people never become bald, and grey hair is seen only upon persons
feeble in old age. The men are remarkably tall and gracefully proportioned. The women, on
the contrary, arc short and thick ; their features, however, are regular, with an oval contour
of face, and large, merry-looking black eyes.

Plate 26 is a sketch of Cahuillas of California, as seen at Coco Mongo rancho. They are
squalid, miserable, and degraded. From children of the forest, as they had been before the
Spanish conquest, they were by Jesuits led to an observance of the rites of the Christian church,

Plate 20.

Cahuillas: Peons, or domestic Indians of California.

and became obedient to their teachers. Although instructed in labor, their duties were light,
and they were sufficiently clothed and fed. Those, probably, were the palmiest days of this
people. When the priests were divested of authority, their converts became peons or slaves of
the rancheros. At length the system of peonage is nominally abolished in California, but the
Cahuillas are sunk in ignorance and sloth, and no provision has yet been made to lift them from
their destitute condition.

CHAPTER III.

Indian Traditions, Superstitions, and Picto graphs.

At the Delaware settlement, called Beaversville, we were visited by Jesse Chisholm, a Cher-
okee. He is well known throughout the Cherokee, Creek, and Choctaw countries, and, as a
trader, has been much among the wild tribes of the prairies. He speaks English and Spanish,
and is so well versed in Indian languages, that at a late council of Comanches, Kaiowas, Huecos,
Kichais, Cadoes, and Witchitas, with the various semi-civilized tribes inhabiting the regions
referred to, he was chosen interpreter for all. His opportunities, therefore, for acquiring inform-
ation upon the subject under consideration are evident. He states that all the above-mentioned
tribes have a firm conviction of the existence of one Great Spirit. The wilder the Indian, the
less he has seen of white men, the more implicit is his trust in the invisible Deity. From this
unity of faith and similarity in the modes of worship, Chisholm infers that the different tribes
have all the same origin.

The civilized Indians are beginning to put less confidence in the " Creek fire," though it is
still kept burning. The Cherokees also are becoming remiss in the performance of their ances-
tral rites. However, they maintain their ancient custom of having one family of the tribe set
apart for the priesthood. Upon the birth of a son, he is subjected to a fast, which continues
seven days. On the third day he is consecrated to his office ; on the ninth other ceremonies are
performed. The boy is afterwards trained to his profession, and becomes a priest or " medicine
man," to win celebrity and power in proportion to his talents and ambition. When any
undertaking of magnitude is contemplated, the priest is consulted for an augury. Not long-
since Chisholm attended one of these ceremonies. The people, apprehending an attack from
their enemies, had consulted the priest. He arose with dignity and addressed the assembly.
He told them that the Great Spirit equally loved all people; but that those who prayed to him,
and believed most implicitly in his power, he condescended to favor with knowledge denied to
others. -Having concluded an eloquent and imposing invocation, he produced a small black
stone, or piece of metal, and said that, in very ancient times, the Great Spirit had been pleased
to give it to his chosen people to indicate his will. Then taking a curiously wrought bowl,
alleged to be of great antiquity, he filled it with water, and placed the black substance within,
causing it to move from one side to the other, and from bottom to top, by a word. Alluding,
then, to danger and foes, the enchanted mineral fled from the point of his knife ; but as he began
to speak of peace and security, it turned toward and clung to it, till lifted entirely from the
water. The priest finally interpreted the omen, by informing the people that peace was in the
ascendant, no enemy being near.

Cherokees, from time immemorial, have been accustomed to baptise their infants with water
when three days old. They believe that, without this rite, the child cannot live. They have a
custom of sacrifices and burnt-offerings. The victim is generally a deer ; sometimes the whole
animal, at others the heart an:l selected portions of the entrails are burned.

They believe in future rewards, but not in future punishments ; in the Good Spirit, and in a
happy spirit-land; but know nothing of the Evil One and his domains, excepting what they have
learned from white men. Misdeeds, they think, are punished in this world; hence sickness,
poverty, war, and death.

His intercourse with Comanches has impressed him with a high opinion of their intellect.
Their language is copious, but difficult to learn ; there being often many words to represent the

36

CEREMONIES AND TRADITIONS.

same idea. They have an unwavering confidence in the G-ood Spirit, and believe that, however
great may he the disproportion in numbers or strength, if He be on their side, they are sure to
be successful. If defeated, they say " He was angry with us, and this is a punishment for some
offence." They have yearly gatherings to light the sacred fires. They build a large collection
of huts, and sit crowded about them, taking medicine for purification, and fasting for seven days.
Those who can endure to keep the fast unbroken, are rendered sacred in the eyes of the rest.
While the ceremony lasts, a perfect silence reigns. No word is spoken. When the "spirit
moves," they rise and dance until exhausted, then again sit quietly upon the ground to com-
mune with their own thoughts.

The custom of fasting is practised by all the tribes of this region. With Cherokees it is the
prevailing mode of purification, and an abstinence of seven days renders the devotee famous.
Seven is a magic number. The tribe is divided into seven clans. The seventh son is necessarily
a prophet, and has the gift of healing by touch. A deserted Comanche camp on Shady creek,
(rudely represented in plate 27,) gave evidence of superstitious rites and Indian offerings, in
corroboration of many of the customs above mentioned.

At camp 42, upon the Canadian, near the Llano Estacado, were seen Pueblo Indians from
San Domingo. After an introductory smoke, they became quite communicative, furnishing a
vocabulary of their language, and much curious information as to their traditions and peculiar
faith. They are Tiguex ; or, according to their own language, " Ki-o-wum-mi," which, by
referring to the vocabulary, is found to denote ttvo. When questioned regarding the number
and positions of the pueblos in New Mexico, they rudely traced upon the ground a sketch,
which is represented in chapter i.

According to tradition, this tribe first appeared at Shipap, the northwest source of Rio del
Norte. Whence they came is not known. They were wandering without fixed abodes, and
sought shelter among canons of the river, in caves which yet remain. They sojourned awhile
at Acoti, the birth-place of Montezuma, who became leader and guide of the subsequent
migration. He taught them to build pueblos, with lofty houses and estufas, and to kindle
sacred fires, to be guarded by priests. Taos was the first pueblo he established ; and from
thence he proceeded southward, forming settlements in the order of succession named upon the
map. Acoma was strongly built, and fortified by him. Pecos was one of the principal towns ;
and, while here, Montezuma took a tall tree, and planted it in an inverted position, saying that
when he should disappear, a foreign race would rule over his people, and there would be
no rain. But he commanded them to watch the sacred fire till that tree should fall, at which
time white men would pour into the land from the east, to overthrow their oppressors, and he
himself would return to build up his kingdom. The earth would again be fertilized by rain,
and the mountains yield treasures of silver and gold. From Pecos, which — seeming to have
fulfilled its destiny — is now desolate, Montezuma continued southward, spreading pueblos far
and wide, till he reached the city of Mexico. There, they say, he lived till the arrival of the
Spaniards, when he disappeared. "Since then," said the narrator, becoming quite excited
by his story, "the prediction has been verified, and the tree at Pecos fell as the American
army was entering Santa Fe." For some time previous the Indians of that pueblo had been
dwindling away ; and soon after, an old priest, the last of his tribe, died at his post, and the
sacred fire was extinguished. They are now anxiously expecting the arrival of Montezuma;
and it is related that in San Domingo, every morning at sunrise, a sentinel climbs to his house-
top, and looks eastward, to watch for his coming.

The Tiguex say that Comanches, Navajos, and all tribes of Indians, are of the same race,
descended from Montezuma. All smoke to the sun, that he may send them antelope to kill,
Indians to trade with,* and save them from enemies.

The first of the Indian hieroglyphics discovered upon our route were at Rocky Dell creek,

• Our informers were on a trading expedition through the land of the Comanches, whom they could not find ; there-
fore, the prayers are applicable to their condition.

o

Q

5>

O

:o
o

PICTOGKAPHS.

37

between the edge of the Llano Estacado and the Canadian. The stream flows through a gorge,
upon one side of which a shelving sandstone rock forms a sort of cave. The roof is covered
with paintings, some evidently ancient, and beneath are innumerable carvings of footprints,
animals, and symmetrical lines. Fac-similes of a portion of them may be found in plates 28,
29, and 30.

Plate 28.

Pictographs at Rocky Dell crook.

Fig. 1 is much defaced, and appears to be very old. It occupies a conspicuous part of the
rock. The figure is naked, and to the head are appended circles, as if to represent enormous
ears. In one hand is a huge club, and in the other a sword. The colors used are red, black,
and white.

Fig. 2 is of the same period; a representation of some superior being, with wings, perhaps
to denote spirituality, and a hand, signifying that he is the creator of the sun, which appears
issuing from it. He stands upon the back of an alligator, but the latter appears to be of later
origin.

The colors of No. 3* are dim, and many of the details obliterated, giving room for Imagina-
tion to fill up the details to her own satisfaction. This series, more than the others, seems to
represent a chain of historical events, being embraced by serpentine lines. First is a rude
s* The sketches here referred to have heen lost. The relative positions of others are slightly changed,

38

PICTOGRAPES AND INSCRIPTIONS.

sketch resembling a ship, . with sails ; then comes a horse, with gay trappings, a man with a
long speaking-trumpet being mounted upon him, while a little bare-legged Indian stands in
wonder behind. Below this group are several singular looking figures : men, with the horns
of an ox, with arms, hands, and fingers extended as if in astonishment, and with clawed feet.
Following the curved line, we come to the circle, enclosing a Spanish caballero, who extends his
hands in amity to the naked Indian standing without. Next appears a group with an officer
and a priest bearing the emblem of Christianity.

Plate 29.

The carvings are of horses and
various hieroglyphic figures. A
like tallies, are also numerous.

Plate 30.

Inscription; at Hocfcy C..U erect.

Pictographs at Rocky Dell creek. *

men, with combinations of right lines and curves, producing
favorite symbol is the track of a moccasin. Systems of lines,
Seven is the number most frequently noted, reminding one of
Chisholm's remarks. The men discovered among the sand
several arrows and feathered ornaments, placed there as
offerings, probably, to the deity of the place. We were here
visited by Pueblo Indians from New Mexico, and copies of the
inscriptions were shown to them. They recognised them,
and said that this place was once a favorite buffalo range, and
here their fathers hunted, feasted, and danced, and then,
sitting by the water-side, recorded their thoughts and deeds
upon the rocks. Figures 1 and 2 they decided to be represen-
tations of Montezuma, placed there to sanctify the spot, and
secure a perpetual supply of water. They confirmed what
the others had said in regard to the power of Montezuma, and
his expected advent from the east. An explanation was asked
regarding the singular animal represented at the top of plate
29. They said it was the great water-snake, created by Mon-
tezuma to give rain, and preserve the lives of those who
should pray to him. They described it as being as large
round as a man's body, and of exceeding great length, slowly
gliding upon the water, with long wavy folds, reminding one
of the accounts of the Nahant sea-serpent.

MYTHOLOGY. — INSCRIPTIONS. — SACRED SPRING.

39

They say there is but one God, but that Montezuma is his equal. Inferior to them is the
sun, to whom they smoke and pray, because he looks upon them, knows their wants, and
answers their prayers. The moon is younger sister of the sun, and the stars are their children.
All are worshipped. Besides these is the Great Snake, to whom, by order of Montezuma,
they are to look for life.* Turning to the inscriptions, and pointing to the horned men, they
said that this was a representation of the buffalo dance, from time immemorial a national festi-
vity, at which they crowned themselves with horns and corn-shucks.

We saw no more Indian inscriptions until we reached the canon upon Santa Fe river, where
the half-vitrified surfaces of the rocks contained many representations of snakes, four-footed
beasts, and men. They are rude, like those upon the banks of Eio Gila. Being disconnected,
they seem designed to tell no story, and hence the copies are suppressed.

The next series of carvings was found at El Moro (Inscription rock) where Spanish adven-
turers and explorers, from as early a period as the first settlement of Plymouth, have been in
the habit of recording their expeditions to and from Zuhi. But these have all been fully
described by Captain Simpson, in his report upon the Navajo expedition, and therefore will
not be repeated here. The Indian figures are evidently more ancient than the oldest of the
Spanish inscriptions.

Plate 32.

Etchings upon rocks at Ojo Pescado. Etchings at Arch spring.

Plate 31 represents some of the etchings upon rocks in the vicinity of the ruins at Ojo
Pescado. The figures are curious, and might safely be pronounced centuries old. They have
been defaced by time only, there being no trace of a modern hand about them.

In plate 32 are copies of a few of the figures found cut upon rocks at Arch spring, near
Zuni. There seems to be a faint similarity between the first two images, and those said to
represent Montezuma at Kocky Dell creek.

In the valley of Zuni there is a singular spring, surrounded by high walls of earth, upon the
top of which are many earthern jars fixed in an inverted position. A sketch, and some remarks
upon it, may be found in the following chapter upon Indian antiquities and arts. Pedro Pino,
governor of this frontier pueblo, visited our camp, and was questioned regarding this fountain.
He replied : " We live in a country without acequias, and, for the growth of our crops, depend

» Vincente says, that when he was a captive among the Comanches, he was bitten by a rattlesnake. The Indians scari-
fied the wounded foot with a flint, rubbed it with a weed, bruised the snake, caught it, and told him to take hold of it.
He was afraid to do so ; but they told him he would die if he did not. He then grasped it convulsively, and they coiled
it around the wound. He was cured, of course ; and his foot now boars the Scar.

40

MODES OF WORSHIP. — TRADITION OF A FLOOD.

upcn rain. To obtain this blessing from tbe Great Spirit, it is necessary for us to perform the
rites and observe the ceremonies of onr ancestors. This spring has ever been held sacred to the
rain god. No animal may drink of its waters. It must be annually cleansed with ancient vases,
which, having been transmitted from generation to generation by the caciques, are then placed
upon the walls, never to be removed. The frog, the tortoise, and the rattlesnake, represented
upon them, are sacred to Montezuma, the patron of the place, who would consume by lightning
any sacrilegious hand that should dare to take these relics away."

He also told a wonderful story of a sudden freshet that anciently swept over the country,
des'roying all men and beasts that did not fly from the valleys to mountain-tops. The Zuhians
that escaped built the town, which is now in ruins, upon a high mesa ; and a yellowish horizontal
vein, near the top of the stratified mount, marks the line of high water.

The caciques are priests as well as governors, and Pedro Pino is the high priest and master
of their peculiar ceremonies. His especial duty is to officiate before the water deities. He seeks
upon the hill-side for twigs of certain trees, which he carefully cuts into sticks a few inches in
length, and trims with feathers. Upon the top of each he binds, first, four turkey feathers ; then
four eagles' feathers ; and finally, below, the same number of ducks' feathers. Some sacred spot
is then selected; and these sticks, united by threads like a snare, are planted in the ground.
This is an invocation for rain. It is dedicated to Montezuma, or to the lesser divinities of water —
frogs, turtles, and rattlesnakes. The Great Spirit, in consequence of these ceremonies, gives
them rain in due season, enabling them to produce fine crops without irrigation. The people
believe that their superior sanctity in the observance of these rites has caused them to be thus
favored above the Spanish population. Although tolerating in their pueblo a church of the
cross, and occasional visits of a Christian priest, they seem to have little regard for the Catholic
religion. In secret they glory in loyalty to Montezuma. They endeavor to keep their Spanish
neighbors ignorant of their ceremonies, but say that Americans are brothers of the children of
Montez\ima, and their friends ; therefore they hide from them neither their sacred dances in
the courts, nor the midnight meetings of caciques in the estufa. Beneath the apparent multi-
plicity of gods, these Indians have a firm faith in the Deity, the unseen Spirit of Good. His
name is above all things sacred, and, like Jehovah of the Jews, too holy to be spoken. Monte-
zuma is His son and their king. The sun, moon, and stars are His works, worthy of their
adoration. Eattlesnakes, frogs, turtles, and all animals living near water are sacred, from
association with one of the most esteemed among the Creator's blessings.

Jose Maria, the war-chief, upon another occasion, after having confirmed the traditionary
legends of Pedro Pino, repeated the story of the flood ; stating that, in ancient time, the waves
rolled in from the west, and water gushed from the earth. It was at midnight. Many fled to the
top of the mesa and were saved; the rest perished in the sea of waters. Navajos, Apaches, and
even wild beasts, except such as found safety upon mountain-tops, suffered the same fate. The
Zuhians, upon their lofty eminence, built a pueblo to await a subsidence of the waters. But as
time passed, and waves still resounded from the sandstone cliffs which begirt their island of
refuge, it was evident that the Great Spirit was angry. A sacrifice was devised to appease him.
A son of the cacique and a beautiful virgin were the chosen offerings. Girded with sticks
trimmed with feathers, they were let down from a cliff into the deep. The waters rolled back,
leaving the young man and the maid statues of stone, which remain to this day. The people
returned to the valley, deserting the city upon the hill until the arrival of the Spaniards; then
again they climbed the heights, fortifying at every turn two steep approaches, the only points
at which they were assailable. The town was rebuilt, and, by hurling stones upon their inva-
ders, for a long time they retained their freedom. At length the enemy was victorious. The
heights were scaled ; and the Zuhians say that in the solid rock may now be seen, as if it were
in clay, the foot-print of the first white man that reached the summit.

These various traditions regarding old Zuni created a desire to visit the ruins. Therefore,
with infinite labor we ascended the nearly perpendicular walls of the mesa mountain upon which

ENVIRONS OP THE PUEBLO OP OLD ZUNI.

41

they are situated, from ten to fifteen hundred feet ahove the valley. Our Indian guide, with whom
we had no medium of communication, probably intending to show us the greatest curiosity of
the place, led us across the flat top of the mountain, and pointed to an isolated sandstone pillar,
several hundred feet in height, the top of which had been curiously worn into shapes resembling
statues of human beings. This was evidently the rock which had perpetuated the tradition of
the pair who had been sacrificed at the flood. There were represented, as in plate 33, four
distinct figures — an apparent discrepancy. But a view was taken from the present town of
Zuni; and though the artist was ignorant of the legend, the sketch shows but two statues.
The others were not visible from that point.

Plate 33.

Legendary statues.

When we had visited the famous ruins of Old Zuni, our conductor led us to one of Pedro
Pino's sacred spots, adorned with, notched sticks, feathers, shells, and netted twine. A view of
this curious altar is shown in plate 34. It was interesting to find that one of the governor's
most improbable tales proved strictly true. When we left, the guide scattered flour over the
place, and muttered a prayer. One of the most remarkable circumstances regarding the insignia
6 i

42

CUSTOMS OF THE NAVAJOS. — INSCRIPTIONS. — MOJAVE CREED.

represented was the regularity with which the sticks were carved. There were, probably,
hundreds, lying in a pile, cut into the same figures as represented in this sketch, and differing
only in the degree of decay which time had produced.

One, who for many years had been a prisoner among the Navajos, gave the following account
of their customs. The ceremony of marriage consists simply of a feast upon horse-flesh. A
plurality of wives is allowed, and a man may purchase according to his ability, the price
being paid in horses. Hence, the wealthy often possess from ten to twenty women. The wife
last chosen is always mistress of her predecessors. There are among them medicine-men, who
deal in roots, and songs, and incantations, blowing ashes and muttering spells upon the invalid
to be cured. Navajos believe in one Great Spirit ; to him they make, like the Zunians, offerings
of flesh and flour, asking favors and seeking good fortune. They also make altars of stones,
and sticks trimmed with feathers. The sun, moon, and stars are sacred, as the authors of sea-
sons of rain and of harvest. But here the resemblance to Pueblo Indians ceases. They do not
acknowledge Montezuma, nor is he, in any way, referred to in their traditions. Neither they,
nor any other Apaches, consider rattlesnakes as sacred, though they have some superstition
which leads them to pay particular veneration to bears. They will neither kill nor eat them.
Pork, also, they have been known to refuse, even when suffering from hunger.

In plate 35 are representations of paintings at Yampais spring, near Williams river. The
spot is a secluded glen among the mountains. A high shelving rock forms a cave, within
which is a pool of water, and a crystal stream flowing from it. The lower surface of the rock
is covered with pictographs. None of the devices seem to be of recent date.

Plate 36 contains copies of some of the figures carved upon rocks at Paiute creek, about

Plate 36.

Etchings at Paiute creek.

thirty miles west of the Mojave villages. These are numerous, appear old, and are too con-
fusedly obscure to be easily traceable.

From the Mojave villages we were accompanied, for about a hundred miles, by two Indian
guides. By signs, and a few Spanish words, which they had gathered, they generally succeeded
in making themselves understood. One evening, desiring to learn something of their ideas
regarding the Deity, death, and a future existence, we led one of them to speak upon those
subjects. He stooped to the ground, and drew in the sand a circle, which he said was to repre-
sent the former casa or dwelling-place of Mat-e-vil, .who was the creator of earth (which was
a woman) and heaven. After speaking for some time with impressive, and yet almost unin-
telligible earnestness, regarding the traditions of that bright era of their race, which all
Indians seem to delight in calling to remembrance, he referred again to the circle, and, suiting
his action to the word, added: this grand habitation was destroyed, the nations were dispersed,
and Mat-e-vil took his departure, going eastward over the great waters. He promised, how-

ORIGIN OF THE COLORADO INDIANS.

43

ever, to return to his people and dwell with them forever; and the time of his coming is
believed by them to be near at hand. The narrator then became enthusiastic in the anticipa-
tion of that event, which is expected to realize the Indian's hopes of paradise upon earth.
Much that he said was incomprehensible. The principal idea suggested was the identity of
their deliverer, coming from the east, with the Montezuma of the Pueblo Indians ; or, perhaps,
the Messiah of Israel; and yet the name of Montezuma seemed perfectly unknown to our
Indian guide. His ideas of a future existence appeared to us somewhat vague and undefined.
The Mojaves (he said) were accustomed to burn the bodies of the dead; but they believe that
an undying soul rises from the ashes of the deceased, and takes its flight over the mountains
and waters eastward to the happy spirit-land .

Leroux says that he has been told by a priest in California, that the Colorado Indians were
Aztecs, driven from Mexico at the time of the conquest by Cortez. He thinks the circle repre-
sents their ancient city, and the water spoken of refers to the surrounding lakes. This idea
derives some plausibility from the fact, mentioned by Alarcon, that in his memorable expedi-
tion up the Colorado river in 1540, he met tribes that spoke the same language as his Indian
interpreters who accompanied him from the city of Mexico or Culiacan.

It is to be regretted that we had not a better medium of communication with this people, as,
upon this subject, much that is interesting might be learned from them. They have not yet
received from white men any impressions to conflict with, or to change, the traditions handed
down from their ancestors. They seem to be isolated, even from the Pueblo Indians of New
Mexico. Although a blanket made by Moquis, and a sash of Zuni manufacture, were found
among them, they stated that these had been brought to them by Paiutes and Yampais Indians.

CHAPTER IV.

Illustrations of Indian Antiquities and Arts*

Onte of the most pleasing of primeval customs, was the respect paid to springs of water".
Arising in the first wants and hest impulses of our nature, it was cherished in warm climates,
and at length hecame fostered in all. The " worship of fountains" is still prevalent through-
out the eastern hemisphere. It is not ohsolete in Great Britain and Ireland; for people are
there yet found presenting annual offerings to them, just as the ancient worship of fire is, in
some districts, ignorantly kept up-
Early incorporated, with other pagan superstitions, into the Christian church, strenuous
efforts were made to abolish it ; for in Europe, as in Asia, it was universal. Miraculous cures,
as well as quenching thirst, were ascribed to certain fonts, and hence arose throughout Chris-
tendom swarms of " holy wells," of which numbers have not yet, in popular estimation, lost
their virtue. Keverence to them was carried to an idolatrous excess.

In the tenth century a schism took place in Persia among the Armenians ; one party was
accused of despising " the holy well of Vagarscriebat." In the reigns of Canute and Edgar,
edicts were issued in England prohibiting well-worship. Hereward, the Saxon hero, witnessed
his hostess invoking the spirit of a fountain in her garden. In the last century, persons in
(Scotland performed pilgrimages to wells ; and in England they were decorated with wreaths
and flowers, hymns were sung over them, and even reading portions of the Gospel was a part
of the ceremonies. Some critics, says Hearne, observe that Avhat is translated "will worship" in
Colossians ii, 23, should be icell-icorsliip. The Hindoos, Chinese, Moors, and Mahommedans,
have their sacred wells. The people of Algiers sacrifice fowls to certain fountains. But to
what extent these figure in sacred and classical history, every reader is familiar.

It is an interesting fact, that in the New World as in the old one, untutored man was moved
by the same principle of gratitude to express his thankfulness for water; and as he knew not
to whom he was indebted, he also imagined spirits presided over fountains, and to them made
what he supposed were acceptable acknowledgments. While the motive that animated him was
the same that influenced his species elsewhere, his manifestations of it were different. He is
not known to have polluted his offerings with blood.

So keenly alive to the importance of the fluid in agriculture were the semi-civilized people of
Central America, Peru, Mexico, and New Mexico, that it is very probable, had they been left to
work out their destiny undisturbed by white men, fountains of water would have played as
prominent a part in their mythology as they did in that of Egypt, Greece, and Rome. An
example of the homage paid by the red race to genii of fountains, is furnished in the sacred
spring of the Zunis, represented on plate 37.

This basin of fine water is located near the table-land, on a branch of the river Zuni, between
the ruins of Ojo Pescado and the present pueblo of Zuni. It is between seven and eight feet in
diameter, and around it a low circular wall, from fifteen to twenty feet across, has been raised.
The spring is cleared out every year, when an offering is made to the spirit of the font, of one
or more ivater-pots, which are placed on the wall. A dozen or more whole ones were observed,
while fragments abounded. Some of the remaining vases are reputed to have been offered
centuries ago by the pueblo caciques. Specimens were brought away, (see next plate,) notwith-
standing the tradition that whoever abstracted one would be struck by lightning. As the

e By Thomas Ewbank.

ZUNI SPRING. — INDIAN POTTERY.

45

Zuni Indians do not have recourse to artificial irrigation, they depend entirely on rain; and it is
their helief that, if they neglected the annual ceremonies at this spring, their crops would he
destroyed "by drought.

Of indications of man's movements in remote times, none are more durable and reliable, and
surely none are associated with more agreeable reflections, than wells and fountains. Architec-
tural and other remains occur in the vicinity of this spring, and throughout all the regions of
New Mexico ; but, compared to the date of its enclosure and use, they are but of yesterday.

Plate 38.

— Indian designs and manufactures.

Figure 1. This singularly formed vase was abstracted from the sacred spring of the Zunis.
Its capacity is about a gallon. The material is a light-colored clay, tolerably well burnt, and
ornamented with lines and figures of a dark brown or chocolate color. A vast amount of labor
has been spent on decorating the unique lip. A fine border-line has been. drawn along the edge
and on both sides of the deep embattled rim. Horned frogs and tadpoles alternate on the inner
surface of the turrets, while one of the latter is represented on the outside of each. Larger frogs
or toads are portrayed within the body of the vessel. The artist evidently used his brush with
much freedom. Several of the figures might serve as spirited specimens of diablerie; of which
the enlarged one above the vase is a sample.

46

INDIAN POTTERY.

Figure 2. A large vase, and also an ancient offering to the spirit of the spring. Its rim is
partially emhattlecl. An encrusted piece is formed on the interior surface of the lip, and on it
a frog in the act of leaping from the vessel, as if disturbed by some one's approach. The
outline of this vessel is identical with that of the classical cauldrons of antiquity and of our own
times. Decorated by a different hand, and possibly in a different age or century from the pre-
ceding, another variety of Batrachians is introduced. This introduction of figures of water
animals on vases dedicated to the genii of fountains, is peculiarly characteristic and appropriate.

Figure 3. A vase, which exhibits considerable taste in its outlines. It is five inches deep at
the centre, ten across the widest part, and eight at the lips. There are four projecting pieces, or
studs, at equal distances from each other, on the swelled part, as if designed to support the vessel
on the perforated plate of a stove — a common practice of ancient and modern Peruvians. As
usual, there are no signs whatever of the potter's wheel having been employed in the fabrication
of this or the other vessels figured. The material is a light clay, and but poorly burnt. Both
surfaces have been coated with bright glazing, approaching to white, and, though cracked all
over, it presents, in clear relief, the umber-colored decorations. This interesting vessel av;is
also taken from the Zufii fountain ; and it is observable that the paintings on it are confined
to appropriate subjects — the crested serpents being probably intended for rattle or water snakes.*
The figures in the interior are shown above — e., a frog, three snakes, and four tadpoles.

Figure 4. A scoop or dipper from the Mojave tribe, and as neat and original an article in
earthen-ware as could well be designed by a civilized potter. The material, and ornamental
work are, of course, inferior. The shank is formed after the throat and head of a bird. The
throat is hollow, and communicates with a perforation behind the open bills. It forms a weak
rattle, having had some minute matters introduced before being baked.

Figure 5. The shape of this vessel is derived from the double gourd, which it perfectly
resembles, and which is so common in some parts of Texas and New Mexico that it is in
universal use by travellers. It is swung by a cord over the shoulders, or secured to the saddle
by horsemen. It is the more valuable in warm countries, because the porous nature of the sub-
stance allows sufficient evaporation, from the sides of the vessel, to keep the water cool within.
The specimen is of modern Zuni manufacture. The figures painted on it are intended to repre-
sent butterflies.

Figures C>, 6. Two ancient vases, restored from fragments found on the Little Colorado. This
class of earthen-ware is known to be of remote antiquity in America, as also on the eastern
hemisphere. Colors are seldom employed — the ornament consisting of raised and indented
designs, somewhat resembling our moulded glass-ware. The uniformity with which the pat-
terns are often worked out is surprising, rivalling, as they do, modern work. These fragments
are, in every view, interesting : the recurved lips are as neatly turned as if done on a wheel,
and the material as regularly thickened and thinned at the edges. The plain bands that termi-
nate the indented work are regular in width. The material is a light-colored clay, porous, and
retains no indications of having been glazed. Altogether, the relics are fine specimens of the
potter's art in past times. Nothing like it is now made by North American Indians, but old
Peruvian vases exhibit the same style of ornament. Fragments of encrusted pottery have also
been found in the mounds of the Mississippi valley. (See also some on plate 40.)

The animal vase {figure 7) is from Zuni. It was bought of an Indian by a messenger sent to
purchase canteens or casks. Figures 5 and 7 were brought to the camp. The latter has been
modelled in imitation of the Bocky mountain or indigenous sheep. Of the ordinary light-
colored clay, it has had a white silvery glazing, which age or use has worn half off. It has
been tolerably well baked, and rings well. Its capacity rather exceeds half a gallon. This

* I do not know that, upon this continent, any animal has heen found similar to that figured upon this Zuni vase. It
would seem to be of Eastern origin; for in Harper's Magazine, among sketches from the ruins of Pompeii, there is the
representation of a snake, with a tuft, like the one before us. In Egypt there is a horned snake quite venomous. It has
the habit of burying itself in sand, and protruding its horns, probably to attract birds for prey. It is much feared by
the natives. A W. W.

MOJAVE IMAGES. — STONE AXES. — POTTERY.

47

kind of vessel is common with the present Pueblo Indians ; and it was as common in ancient
Mexico and Central America, for several have "been dug up. In the cabinet of Dr. Davis, of
New York, is a fine specimen from Palenque. It is impossible to compare ancient and modern
specimens, without perceiving that in this branch of art no change, or next to none, has taken
place in the countries named from times anterior to the discovery.

Figures 8 and 9. Images of unbaked clay kept in their dwellings by the Mojaves. They
remind one of similar things kept by and buried with the Egyptians ; and yet they do not
appear to be intended for idols. Whether designed to preserve memorials of the dead, for
children's toys, or used by the medicine-men in their incantations — or whatever else their
purpose is — was not ascertained. They vary in dimension, from a few inches to twelve and
upwards. Some are elaborated into rude statuettes, and better finished in eArery respect than
the two here figured. That they are not idols, may be inferred from the fact that when one was
accidentally seen and purchased, quite a number were offered for sale. Brazilian Indians have
wooden images representing the head and shoulders of men. (Lieut. Gibbon's Report on the
Exploration of the Amazon, p. 299.)

Figure a. A minute pot, not larger than a large orange, from the Pimas Indians, b. A
pipe of the Pinal Lehos, a rude affair, and either used without a tube or inserted into a reed.
With it was obtained a specimen of their tobacco, or kinik-kinik — an Algonquin word, and
used by the Ojibwa Indians, now in Washington, for the same thing.

Figures c, d, and e. Stone axes, presenting no particularly marked features, d is the most,
and c the least perfect. The latter has been used as a hammer, and the heads of all show how
this wide class of primeval implements were employed as wedges, quite as much as edge-tools.
That a moderate-sized tree was ever cut down by a stone axe is extremely problematical.
Figure f has a rounded end, reminding one of similar convex hammers of Aztec and Peruvian
silver-smiths : the opposite end is extremely blunt. This instrument was found at a Casa
Grande, on the river Salinas. As it and d have grooves only on three sides, they were obviously
used without a withe handle. In what manner, then, were they used ? The answer was
given by four Ojibwa Indians, part of a delegation now in Washington. While drawing up
this paper, they paid me a visit, and at once explained that the grooves were for the thumb
and forefinger. The grooves prevent the instrument from slipping out of the grasp.

In Dr. Davis's cabinet are twenty-five axes and hammers from mounds in the Mississippi
valley, some very large and heavy. Of these, sixteen have grooves only on the sides and one
edge.

Plate 39. — Among other relics, the usual arrow-heads of flint, quartz, &c, occurred through-
out the survey; also numerous fragments of painted pottery, the material of which is com-
monly dark colored and porous ; occasionally light red, with a closer grain ; and sometimes grey,
and still more compact. In some specimens, the inside of the vessel (known by the concavity
of the piece) has alone been painted; in others, the outside; and in some, both sides. The
pieces here figured are sufficient to show the turn of the Indian mind in this branch of ornament.

No. 1 is light and porous, cracked and corroded.

No. 2, a dark clay, and sombre colored. On the other side, white lines, nearly obliterated,
have been drawn on a dull brown ground.

No. 3, the concave side of a fragment whose convex surface is shown at No. 8.

No. 4. From its very slight concavity, it appears to have been a portion of a large vast1 —
much larger than any of the other scraps belonged to. It is thick, of a dark colored and open
clay. The opposite side is rough and uncolored.

No. 5, of reddish clay and rather close grain, and better baked than most of the others. It
is from the Colorado Chiquito (Flax River).

No. 6. Dark grey material, and both sides painted.

No. 7. From the hieroglyphic springs. Material, a dark grey ; the black lines shine as it' laid
on with varnish. The opposite, or outside, is colored red.

48

INDIAN POTTERY.

No. 9. The convex side of an old fragment. The other side is rough, and of the dark color
of the clay.

No. 10. The concave side ; the clay light colored and compact. Eemains of ornaments are
on the other side.

No. 11. A portion of a vase from the Colorado Chiquito.

No. 12. Of yellow clay, and close grained. (Colorado Chiquito.)

No. 13. Material similar to No. 10.

No. 14. Portion from the upper edge of a vase. (Colorado Chiquito.) Fragments of Pah-

Platk 39.

Ancient Indian pottery.

Utah pottery resemble this somewhat, though the only color is brownish red, laid over light-
colored clay in broad bands.

No. 15. Coarse grained, cracked, and corroded. Both sides are painted; the black is shaded
down into the red ; the white lines have been put on, apparently, after the vessel had been baked ;
while in one very old fragment the white figures look like enamel, or pieces of embedded shell.

No. 16. Outside of a vessel, whose interior had been ornamented with black and red lines.

INDIAN POTTERY. 49

The fragments a, b, c, d, are from the ruins of a pueblo on the Little Colorado.
Plate 40 represents fragments in which two colors only are chiefly used — black or brown lines
on a light-grey ground, and mostly the natural tint of the clay.
No. 1. From the big bend of Flax river.
No. 2. Part of the neck of a vessel.
Nos. 3 and 4. From Flax river.

Nos. 5 and 6. Found near camp 70, in the vicinity of Zuni. They are modern, and in
appearance and hardness approach to our stoneware.

No. 7. A minute fragment, and observable only for its minute squares.

No. 8. Ornamented on the opposite side with white lines on a dark ground.

Nos. 10 and 11. From Colorado Chiquito. No. 11 is from the upper part of a bowl whose
edge is tapered and neatly rounded,

Plate 40.

Aucient Indian pottery.

The remaining four fragments are of the natural color of the coarse clay of which they have
been made. They display attempts at ornament, by incrusting and otherwise- marking the sur-
7 i

50

POTTERY. — "WEAPONS OF THE COLORADO INDIANS.

face, much on the plan of the restored vase in plate 38 ; though not one of the numerous speci-
mens, from which the ahove have been selected, approaches to it either in design or execution.

No. 9. A portion of a large vase from Cosnino caves. The surface is broken by thin and
narrow strips overlapping each other like continuous rows of shingles, or rather tiles ; for depres-
sions have been made in succession, by a tool, which, from the fine lines left by it, may have been
a shell. These strips appear to have been laid on after the body of the vase had been hardened
in the sun, and, as each was put on, the ribbed tool was used to press it down to its place.

No. 15 is another specimen on the same plan, much corroded. It is from the big bend of
Flax river.

No. 13. A compact, close-grained clay; the impressions on the surface are very slight — prob-
ably made by a pointed instrument. It is from the Little Colorado.

No. 14 exhibits a rough species of beading or moulding, formed round a vase, and apparently
by drawing a pointed stick along the plastic material.-

While both ancient and modern aboriginal pottery present a coarse material, seldom equalling
in closeness of texture our commonest ware, it would seem as if a better taste and greater skill
had generally prevailed before the discovery than since. In forms and ornament, the old work-
men— or rather workwomen, for they have been, and are, the chief artists in clay — excelled ; a
remark that applies to Chili, Peru, Brazil, and Central America, as well as to Mexico and New
Mexico.

No. 12. An ancient fragment from the Little Colorado, one-third larger than the drawing,
rough, and corroded by the elements and time. The black scroll is embedded on a reddish colored
clay, and ajypears to have belonged to a large vessel. It would be interesting to know how this
fruitful germ of modern scroll-work, and staple element in the decorative art of the nations of
the East, was suggested to the Aztec modeller — whether by coiled worms, shells, vegetable ten-
drils, or imaginative impulse.

It may not have occurred to every reader that most, if not all, the elements of decorative art,
as regards curved and straight lines, which are supposed to have originally occurred to the
Egyptians, Assyrians, Greeks, and other advanced people of the eastern hemisphere, have been
exhibited by the ancient occupants of the western one. In the relic just noticed, we have the
line rolled spirally inwards and outwards — the involute and evolute. In other samples of
pottery, the guilloche, or curved fillet, in various forms, is met with; also, waving lines,
arched, invected, engrailed, radiant, embattled ; the trefoil, cross, scroll, and numerous other
initial forms, though less expanded and diversified than in the Old World. The fillet, frett,
astragal, ogee, and cavetto, abound in the ruins of Palenque, Cusco, and in architectural
remains in Central America.

Plate 41 (lithograph).

Figure 1. A Yampais bow, 4£ feet long. Mojave bows are of similar form, from 4 to 6 feet
in length, and are made of cottonwood. The quiver, full of arrows, and made of mountain-
sheep skin, is shown at 4.

Figure 2. A Chemehuevis bow, such as is used by every band of the Pah-Utahs. 5. The
quiver, being the spotted skin of a species of wild cat.

Figures 3, 3, 3. Specimens of arrows.

Figure 7. A Mojave lance.

Figure 6. Obtained from the Mojaves, and deemed by some of the party a war club.* It
appears to be a domestic implement; the flat face is worn smooth, and apparently by pounding
soft substances, probably boiled maize ; the edges of the face are cracked, and the lower portion

0 The particular specimen referred to may possibly have been used for domestic purposes ; but it is as well known to be
an implement of warfare as is the bow or the spear. From their frequent use of this weapon, one tribe is known as the
G«lloteros, or Club Indians. A. W. W.

INDIAN ORNAMENTS AND MANUFACTURES.

INDIAN MANUFACTURES.

51

of the swelled part is of a lighter color than the rest, as if it had heen much used in crushing wet
or moist materials. The wood is as light colored as hickory, hut not near as heavy. It hears
marks of laborious forming by an imperfect cutting-tool. Besides the one figured, another
was obtained, similar to it, except there is no projection left on the handle. The entire length
is 16, and the diameter of the face 3| inches.

Figure 8. A Mojave plume for the head. Some are made of the downy feathers of the eagle,
and are preserved with care, in reed cases, when not in use. Figure 9 is another variety of the
feather ornaments.

Figures 10, 11, 12. The principal, and commonly the only, articles of female dress among the
Mojaves ; and although described by travellers and traders as petticoats, they are simply what
our first parents wore — aprons; one being tied on before, and another behind. Of the latter,
fig. 10 is a specimen, consisting of loose strips of the bark of the cottonwood, or of the alamo,
and secured around the waist by a cord.

Figure 13. A Mojave squaw's front apron.

Figure 14. A basket, water-tight, and exhibiting considerable correct taste, as well as skill,
in its construction. The slips of light colored reed, of which it is formed, are one-twentieth of
an inch wide; the ornaments are a black edge, a row of small figures a little below the edge,
and low down a circle of engrailed lines. Two of the baskets were captured from the Pah-
Utahs — one 12 inches diameter, and 4 deep; the other 10^ inches diameter, and 2£ deep.
The skill displayed in this species of manufacture is further seen in various vase-formed ves-
sels, as figs. 15 and 16.

Figure 17. An unbaked image, similar to those on plate 38, drawn to a very small scale.
The head is set off with hair and ear-rings.

Figures 18 and 21. Specimens of ancient arrow-heads, of jasper, quartz, obsidian, flint, &c,
found among ruins at Moqui springs, Pueblo creek, Aztec pass, and on the Colorado and G-ila
rivers. On the latter was found a flat bead, of bright green stone, resembling the one attached
to the nose ornament, fig. E, plate 42.

Plate 42 (lithograph).

Figures A A. A gorgeous pair of aboriginal ear ornaments.* The rings are of stout brass wire,
and nearly three inches in diameter. The drops are plates of pearl-shell, in which the tints of
the rainbow gleam with unrivalled lustre and iridescence ; they are connected to the rings by
white and blue beads.

B. A shell ring, or ornament, evidently cut with much labor. It was found at a casa gfande,
(Chichilticale,) near the Pima villages, on Kio Gila. Another, almost a fac-simile, was found
among the same ruins. The diameter of each is nearly three inches. The use to which they
were put is unknown.

C. A slate-stone ear-drop of the Yampais. It is If inch long, smooth, and thin.

D. One of a pair of Shawnee ear-drops, full size, and remarkable only for being made by a
native artist. The material is silver, probably hammered out of half or quarter-dollar pieces.
The workmanship is tolerably good, though not sufficiently so to pass muster with our city
jewellers. D' is another variety.

E. Nose ornament of Cairuk, a Mojave chief. It consists of a large white bead of shell,
and from it hangs a thin conical slip of a bright and light-blue stone. The small leather thongs
were passed through the septum of the nose, and secured the gem to it.

F. A small tobacco-pouch, of buckskin, and tastefully set off with white, purple, and other
colored beads. It was obtained from the Lipans.

H. A brass medal, f full size, obtained from the Mojaves. The figures have been struck in

* These were obtained from Lipans. Comanches and Kaiowas decorate themselves with similar appendages, made of
shells, bead and wampum work.

t Thiei medal is probably a relio left by Friar Pedro Font, or Father Kino, who visited the Colorado in 1700.

52

MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. — ORNAMENTS.

high relief, but are much worn. It bears no date. It is obviously one of the medallions dis-
tributed by the early Jesuits. The effigies of Loyola are on one side, those of St. Francis
Borgia on the other.

I. Small shell gorget, worn by married women only. Tbey part with it reluctantly, and
seem to prize it as if it were a wedding gift.

K, L. A Mojave flute and fife ; the former rather over two feet in length, and of the natural
bore of an inch cane. It consists of a little more than two joints of the reed, with the natural
diaphragms or partitions — one at the middle, and another near each end. The latter have been
bored through at the centre, leaving irregular shaped openings f-inch diameter. The surface is
very elaborately, though rudely, carved and colored. The extremities have bandages of red and
blue cloth, set off with tassels formed of strings.of buckskin, that hangover the orifices. The player
puts his mouth to one end, and blows directly into the tube, just as South American Indians
play on their bone fifes. Like them, too, these have stops for the fingers of but one hand.
Unlike them, however, in another feature, these instruments give no sound till a finger is
placed over the central opening. The finger, in fact, forms a part of the musical aperture or
whistle, and, by varying its position and pressure, the tone is varied. As this may furnish a
hint to our musicians and instrument-makers, a section of the flute is added. In fig. 3, a and b
show the perforated diaphragms, and c represents the central one, which is left whole, and forms
a tongue or side of the whistle ; the oblong opening communicates with the interior on both
sides of the diaphragm.

The fife acts precisely on the same principle, except that, instead of the player's finger, a thin
band of leather goes around and is tied at x. This he slides clown till it covers a portion of one
or both openings.

These instruments* are common with the Coco-Maricopas, and Tumas, or Cuchans ; and
among the tribes on the Colorado, young men serenade their female friends with them.

Of numerous articles not figured in the plates, a few may be noticed here :
A piece of cedar, fifteen inches long, and four inches in diameter, part of a beam found in
place, in the very ancient ruins on the summit of Inscription rock. There is nothing in its
appearance that indicates the action of a cutting-tool. The remaining portion of the beam had
been destroyed, or buried in the ruins.
Mojave armlets of thick leather.

A Navajo shield of raw hide, with an alleged head of Montezuma painted on it, and set off
with streamers and feathers ; apparently identical with those used before the discovery. Such
are common among the Apaches, Navajos, and the Pueblo Indians. In battle, the Indians
never stand still or straight, but keep moving and throwing up the shield to divert aside
arrows, while at the same time they use their bows. This shield is represented on plate 21, page
30, in the figure of the Indian from whom it was taken.

Netting made of the fibre of the maguey or yucca plant. The cord is hard and strong, feeling
like whipcord. Made by the Mojaves.

A cord of human hair, over twelve feet long, § of an inch thick, and consisting of six double
strands. The color is brownish black. It was obtained from the Pimas.

Several strings of " pook' ' f — one five feet long — consisting of bits of thin white shells, broken
into pieces varying from \ to f of an inch diameter, and drilled in the centre. The most
interesting query about these and kindred things is the facility with which they are perforated.

A peace-offering of the Comanches, left on a mound at one of their deserted encampments,
consisting of a few small strings of colored beads, and a bracelet of soft brass. Having no

° The form of this musical instrument is doubtless purely an Indian invention. The principle of its construction is
believed to be different from any known among other tribes or nations.

f When I first visited the Colorado Indians in 1849, strings of this wampum were used by them as money — two yards of
it representing about the value of a horse. I have known a young Indian to refuse $20 for his necklace. — A. W*. W.

INDIAN CUKIOSITIES.

53

elasticity, the ring was easily opened to pass over the wrist, and the ends as readily pressed
together to keep it in its place.

Two Mojave necklaces of sea-shells, uniform in color and dimensions, and resembling some-
what the one figured 13, Plate 41.

A necklace of pieces of medicinal and fragrant root, strung on a thong of leather — a charm
prescribed by the " medicine-men" among the Colorado tribes.

A large head of a spear of bone, 6 inches long and f-inch thick, plain at one edge, and
double-barbed at the other ; used by Indians on the Colorado in spearing fish.

A Colorado chieftain's head-dress — a conical cap of soft leather, whitened outside with a pig-
ment, apparently of clay, punched full of holes, and edged with a red band. A bunch of dark
feathers is secured at the crown, and a number of lighter and pendant ones incline in one
direction from it.

A Choctaw wampum belt, eleven feet long, consisting of narrow strips of red and blue braids,
all edged with white beads, and connected to an ornamental band at the middle.

CHAPTER V.

Vocabularies of North American Languages*

Of the vocabularies of North American aboriginal languages, which here follow, those of the
Cuchan and Diegeno were collected by Mr. Whipple, in an expedition made from San Diego to
the Colorado in the year 1849. Those of the Pinal Leno, Pima, and Coco-Maricopa were
obtained while engaged in the Mexican Boundary Expedition, in the years 1851-'53; and the
remainder during the survey for a Railway route to the Pacific ocean, made in the years 1853
and 1854.

Of these vocabularies the five just mentioned — viz. the Cuchan, Diegeno, Pinal Leno, Pima,
and Coco-Maricopa — are imperfect, and very irregular in the choice of words, excepting the
Cuchan, which is pretty full. These irregularities and imperfections were owing partly to the
want of a standard selection of words to be asked for, and partly to the fact that the Indians
frequently tire of being questioned, and of having their minds directed into so unusual a channel ;
in which case, they will communicate only such words as strike their fancy, and with these the
collector must be content.

The greater part of them, however, were obtained in tbe course of the Pacific Railroad Survey ;
in making which the War Department very properly directed that attention should be given to
"the location, character, habits, traditions, and languages of the Indian tribes." In order to
carry out properly this last branch of his instructions, Mr. Whipple provided himself with
blanks, containing lists of about two hundred words in English and Spanish, prepared by the
American Ethnological Society, and printed at the expense of the Smithsonian Institution ; and
these were adhered to as far as was found practicable. Some irregularities, however, are here
also observed : occasionally certain words, owing to the imperfect medium of communication,
could not be obtained, or want of time would not allow the tedious operation to be completed of
filling out the list ; and sometimes a few extra words were procured.

Many of these vocabularies will be found of especial interest and value to the ethnographer,
from the fact that they are the first ever published of their respective languages.

In the five vocabularies first obtained, the words were taken down in the rude fashion usual
with those to whom the irregular orthography of the English language has been familiar from
childhood. Mr. Whipple thus describes the powers given to the vowel characters :

a is sounded as in ah.

e as in me; e as in met ; e as a in fate.

i as in pine; x as in pin.

o as in note; o as in not.

u as in flute.

In the orthography adopted for the later vocabularies (scil., those of the Pacific Railroad
Survey) greater precision was attempted, in accordance with the suggestions prefixed to the
blanks alluded to. The system is thus described :

a is sounded as in father; a as in fat.
e is soundell like a in face; e as in met.
i is sounded as in marine; i as in pin.
o is sounded as in go; 6 as in got.

u is sounded like oo in food; u as in but.

° Collected by A. W. Whipple ; classified, with accompanying remarks, by Wm. W. Turner.

ORTHOGRAPHY. — ARRANGEMENT OF THE TABLES.

55

(It will be found, however, that the sound of long u, or English oo, is often denoted by Mr.
Whipple, especially at the beginning of a syllable, by the combination ou. This combination
is also frequently used to represent the sound of the English w, or one very near it, as in the
syllables oui, oua, for wi, iva.)

ai has the sound of the i in line.

ow or ow is sounded as in the word now. (The proper spelling would have been au.)
g is always hard, as in go.

ch or tch is sounded like ch in church, or tch in witch,
qu is pronounced as in queen.

h' prefixed to a word denotes a very strong aspiration.

s' prefixed shows that the word begins with a sharp, hissing sound.

t' prefixed indicates that the tongue is to be pressed forcibly against the teeth.

In the Comanche vocabulary, an apostrophe (') after a word denotes an almost inaudible
grunt, so as to faintly sound the letter i. In Caddo, it signifies that the word is abruptly
stopped.

In the Kichai and Hueco, tc, tk, or ilk is a click, made with the tongue against the roof of
the mouth.

In the Navajo, j represents the sound of that letter in French.

In the Choctaw, the orthography of which is that established by the Mission, au is sounded
like ow in now; a, e, i, o, u, when printed in italic letters, are nasalized ; and hi denotes an
aspirated I, like the 11 in Welsh.

An attempt was made to reduce the orthography of all the vocabularies to a uniform and
more strictly scientific system, correcting at the same time the irregularities observed in the
application of the rules laid down; but, after a fair trial, it was abandoned as impracticable.
Accordingly, the words are placed before the reader precisely as they were taken down on the
spot, excepting that the acute accent, indicating the emphasized syllable, is the only one
retained, and that, when the syllable ends in a consonant, the short mark over the vowel is
usually omitted as unnecessary.

Had the vocabularies coincided completely, or nearly so, as to the words adopted, they would
have been arranged together in one comparative table ; but, from causes already mentioned,
they vary so considerably — some being much longer, and others much shorter than the standard
adopted for most of them, added to which there are many discrepancies in the choice of words —
that it was found better to place each affiliated group by itself. The following is the order
adopted, each group or single vocabulary being followed immediately by the remarks relating
to it :

I. Delaware.
II. Shawnee.

III. Choctaw.

IV. Kichai.
V. Hueco.

VI. Caddo.
VII. Comanche.
VIII. Chemehuevi.
IX. Cahuillo.
X. Kioway.

XI. Navajo.

XII. Pinal Lefio.

Algonkin.

Pawnee ?

Shoshonee.

Apache.

XIII.

Kiwomi.

XIV.

Cochitemi.

XV.

Acoma.

XVI.

Zuili.

XVII.

Pima.

XVIII.

Cuchan.

XIX.

Coco-Maricopa

XX.

Mojave.

XXI.

Diegeno.

Keres.

Yuma.

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

ALGONKIN.

I. Delaware.

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child ...

Father

Mother

Hushand

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

Indian

Head

Hair

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Breasts

Man's privates
Woman's do...

Leg

Foot

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

Town, village..
Chief

ki-she-a-la-muc'-cong.

math-tan'-to

len'-no

h'que'-'i

pi-lai-e'-chit

quai'-chitz

mi-e-min'-let

nu'-uh

oui-che'-ok

na-how'-shum

ni'-chat

doh-quai-chit'-chum .

ni'-moc-tus

doh-quai'-em

me-6h-ke-oh-cus'-sid

ouil (or) wil

mi-lah'k

ouis-king'h

la-ohk-ka-lai'

houit'-ow

tuk-que'-ling

oui-ki'-o

oui-tun

oui'-la-no

oui-pi'-ta

oui-tu'-na-yac

h'quai-can'-ya

wa-nuh'k'

puc'-ka-lenge

de-lo-i'-ka

hi'-cath-shat

hacZ-cah

mut'-tai

hic'-cah

zit

en-dus'-i-ak-sit-a' .

h'cun

huW

muk

u-te'-na

sa-ki'-ma

II. Shawnee.

ou-wis'-i-man-i-toh'
match'-i-man-i-toh'
il-le-ni'

s'squaw-o-wah'

s ' sque-lai-thi-thah'

s ' squaw-the-e-thah

ah-be-lo-tha-ki

no-thah'

nik-yah'

oui-se-ah'

ni-wah'

ni-qui-thah'

dah-nai-thah'

jai-nai-nah

nit-que-quai-o-mah'

del-noi-eh'

oui-i-si'

oui-thai-ah'

e-shi-que-chi'

lah-oui-ki-leh'

h'tow-wa-cah'

s'ski-si-coh', ski-she-quih'

ki-tschar-si

ki-tor-ni'

ki-lar-ni'

ki-he-tar-leh'

qui-ni'-lu-nar-o-lih'

k'quai-e-ka-ker

ki-neh-ki

ki-leh-chi'

ki-leh-chi'

x-kas-sah'

ni-i-yah'

heh-quoi-tah'

ul-le-ne'

pas-sah-tih

mas-sih

t'kar-chi'

ni-thi-chi'

ni-thi-tah-lish'

h'kah-nih'

ki-te-hi

ps'qui

ou-te-ou-wel'
ou-ki-mah'

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
AL GrONKIN .—Continued.

I. Delaware.

II. Shawnee.

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Cup

Kettle

Bottle

Arrow

Bow

Axe, hatchet

Knife

Canoe, boat

Moccasins, shoes . .

Bread

Pipe, calumet

Tobacco

Sky

Heaven

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Lightning

Thunder

Rain

Snow

Hail..

Fire

Water

Ice

Earth, land

Sea

River

Creek, small river

Lake

Valley

Hill

Si

ski'-no

ni'-tis

ouig-wam

wah-shum-oui-thuc . . .

a-lunth'

a-ta'-pe

to-ma-hi'-ca

shi'-ka

moh-holdt

chi-poth'-co

hath-pon

ha-bo'-ca

qu-tschar'-tai

mu'-shuc-'qu

ki-shel-a-me-con'-gui

kis-co-quit'-tah

ki'-shu'h.

a-lanq'

kis-qui'k

o-he-e

pis-ke

a-pis-ken-quei'

o'-pah

lo-qui'-ke

tup' -peg

ni'-pan

tah-co'-co

lu'-wan

shah'-han

sah-pe-le'-he-le

pe-tak'-han

su'-ke-lan

ku'-no

hu'-co-me ha-pi'-he-le

tun'-dai'h

bih

cun

huc'-ki

shoh'-e-pe

sik'-po

me-nip'-pek

en-dush-in'-geg

oh-chu'

ne-noth-tu'

ne-kah-noh'

oui-qu-ah'

tip-hi-cah'

s'couth-quoi'

oui-tha-quuc-quoi'

il-le-na-lui'

il-le-nah-qui'

te-kah-ah-kur7

mah-ne-thi'

ou-la-kai-i-sih'

m'ki-thai-nah'

te-whoir'

h'quoi-a-ker'

t'thai-a-mer'

s'spem-e-ke

ki-sah-thoi'

te-beth-ti-kish-thoi'

ah-la-ah-quoi'

qui-si-qui'

te-o-pah'-cou-li'

te-beth-ki

pai-bai-ke-char'

pi-ai-tah-cou-tha-mou'

pak-e-se-mou

me-loh-cak-me'

ni-pai-n'oui'

pah-co-tai'

pai-pou-n'oui'

p'si-cah-n'oui

pah-pah-n'oui

nen-nem-ki

que-mou-ah-n ' oui

co-o-nah'

p'ou-quoi-mah'

s'cou-te

ne-bi'

ki-pat-te-nui'

a-slus-ki'

k'chi-cak-mi'

t'hi-bi'

meth-tc-qui

p's-ske-o-qui'

ki-kah-ka-mi-ka-tui'

ina-quoi-ki

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

ALGONKIN . — Continued.

I. Delaware.

Mountain

Island

Stone, rock...,

Salt

Copper ,

Iron ,

Maize

Tree

Wood

Leaf

Bark

Grass

Oak

Pine

Flesh, meat...

Beaver

Otter

Deer

Bison, buffalo.

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Squirrel

Babbit, hare ..

Snake

Bird

Egg

Goose

Duck

Chicken

Pigeon

Partridge

Turkey

Fish

White

Black

Bed

Blue

Yellow

Green

Great, big

Small, little ....

Strong ,

Old

Young ,

ki'-toh-ten

mi-nah'-te

oh-sen' ,

si'-cai

milh'-coh-sen .
suh'-coh-sen . . ,

hus'-quim

hic-tok

tah'-ha-na

cum'-buh-co...

lmk'-kes

ski'-i-ko

oui-pun'-go'k.

ku'-we

oui-us'

te-mar'

-que

ah-tu'

si-zil'-ia . .
moh'q ....
tum-meh.

oc'-quis.

hah-nik

chi-mam'-mus

h'couke

chu'-linth

or'l

ca-hawk'

qui-e-quin'-go

ti-pas

a-mi-mi'-yok

oui-e-lin-kin'-gok.

chi'-ke-no

la-mes'

o -pe

sic'-ke

moh'-ke ,

ah'-ne

oui-sah'-e

as-cas'-que %.

hing'-que

tan-ge'-to

clii'-ta-ne

ho'-eh

ouis'-kun

II. Shawnee.

p's ske-mu-quoi-hi-ki

me-ne-thi'

she-quo-nur'

ou-thow-o-qu-quah'

pou-cou-pe-lo-qui'

tar-mi'

te-qui'

ut-e-qui

sis-qui

ou-la-ge-qui'

p's qui-te-qua-loh'

wah'-bah-co-me-shi'

s'she-quoi'

oui-or-thi'

er-meh-quoi'

quit-ta-teh'

p'sceke-thi'

p'thu-thoi

pu-quoir

ptwe-o-wa'

with-si'

"wa-cu-cha-thi'

an-e-quoi

pet-a-ke'-ne-thi

man-e-toh'

ouis-ke-lo-tha'

oua-oui'

ska-ki'

shi-shi-a-puh'

poi-i-tha-ki'

que-qua-la-soi-tha-ki'

pe-le'-o

no-me-tha'

wuh'-ker-ne-kah'

p'cat-e-wak'

p'squaw-oui'

pski-pah-cah'

ou-thow-wa'

pski-pah-cah'

psai-wi'

match-squa-thi'
oui-shi-cat-tu-oui'
pas-shi-tu-e-tba'
mai-ah

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
ALGONKIN.- Continued .

Good

Bad

Handsome . . .

Ugly

Alive, life....
Dead, death .

Cold

Warm, hot..

I

Thou

He

We

Ye

They

This

That

All

Many, much

Who

Near

I. Delaware.

shi'-e-ki

ta-cou'-le-tu'

wa-lis'-so

ma-ta-si'-so

le-a-le'-i-he

un'-ge-la

tah-co'-cho

slun'-de

ni

ki .*.

ne

ki-lo'-na

ki-lu-wa

i-ka-li wi-ca'-tin

se-e-nm-ne .

wai'-o-mi

hai'-o-lok

ah-wen'

nic-hic-wa-ti-a-wen' .

Over

To-day | u-que-kis-qui'k

Yesterday

To-morrow

Yes

No

And

Times, (Fr./ois)

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen

Twenty ,

Twenty-one

Twenty-two

Thirty

Forty

lo'-que-e

ak-lup'-a

co-hun'

ha-cou'

oh (a mere grunt)
turn

co'-te

ni'-sha

na-ha'

ne'-e-wah

pah-le'-nah'k

cot'-tasch

ni'-shasch

hahsch

pes'-co

te'len

te-len-oh-co'-te ,

te-len-oh-ni-sha

te-len-5h-na-ha'

ni-shi'-na-ki

ni-shi-na-ki-oh-co-te . .
ni-shi-na-ki-oh-ni-sha

na-ha-te-len

ne-e-wah-te-len

II. SHAWNB3.

oui-sah'

mat-ou-oui-sah'

u-le-thi'

mat-e-thi-i-thi

li-nou-e-oui'

ne-poi', chi-pah'

oue-hi

ah-quoi-te-ti

ni-la'

ki-luh'

yah-ma

ni-la- weh'

ki-luh- weh'

la-neh-ke

la-yah-mah

la-nah

tscha-yah-ki

met-chi'

ne-thow-we

ma-ketch-e-ne-lu

kit-te

e-no-ke-kah-she-ki-ki'

u-la-o-co

wah-pah-keh'

hah-hah'

mat-tah'

ne-co-ti

ni-e-sui

t'thoui'

ni-e-oui'

ni-ah-la-nui

ni-co-toi-thi

ni-shaw-thi

t'tha-shik-thi

tcha-cat-thi

met-a-thi

kit-te-ne-co-ti'

kit-te-ni-e-sui

kit-te-t'thoui

ne-suoi-pit-a-ki

ne-suoi-pit-a-ki-te-ne-co-ti

t'thoi-pit-a-ki
ni-e-oi-pit-a-ki

60

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

ALGONKIN . —Continued.

I. Delaware.

II. Shawnee.

Fifty

Sixty

Seventy

Eighty

Ninety

Hundred

Thousand

Eat

Drink

Kun

Dance

Go

Come

Sit

Stand

Sing

Sleep

Speak

See

Love

Kill

Walk

Bury

Who is that? .
Black Beaver .
Canadian river

pah-le-nah'kt-te-len

cot-tasch-ten-te-len

ni-shasch-ten-te-len

te-len-tum-te-len

quo-tun-te '-len-tah ' p'-puc
ki

mit'-se

men-el'

k'schaw-meth'-en-la

ken'-te-kah

at-lump'-scka

wim-da-hal'

la-mot'-hath-po
ni-po

a-su'-elthl

cah-wil

a-chi'-mouil

ki-ne'-o

da-how'-i-la

t'hi'-la

mus-cah

ah-wen-hutch-nah ?
Sec-sid Te-rnar'-que

yah-ha-noi-pit-a-ki

ne-co-toi-a-shi

ne-shoi-a-shi

thaw-a-shi'

tscha-a-ka'

te-pe-e-weh'

ineta-the-ne-the-pe-a-wuh'

oUL-then-e-luh'

men-e-luh

me-me-qui-luh

men-i-e-de-luh'

weh-pe-theh

pe-e-wah'

na-ca-mo-loh'

ne-pah-loh

atch-mo-loh

ni-ne-e-meh'

dah-que-le-mali

tschi, tsi

pam-the-loh'

ne-pe-ka'

Ki-ne-e-ti'

Eemarks.

Delawares (Le-nd-pe). — According to Mr. Gallatin, the Delawares belong to the Eastern or
Atlantic, and the Shawnees to the Western division of the Algonkin stock. The remnants of
these two once powerful tribes are now located north and south of the Kansas river.

A number of vocabularies of the Delaivare language have already been published from time
to time; but this does not render the collection and publication of others undesirable. The
old vocabularies are, for the most part, very imperfect ; the selection of words is not well made,
their orthography is rude and ambiguous, and they are often disfigured by errors of the press.
Accordingly, until such time as the whole treasures of the language are collected in a diction-
ary, it is desirable that new vocabularies, drawn up on improved principles, should be con-
structed and accurately printed as occasions present themselves ; for, besides that each new one
supplies some deficiency, corrects something erroneous, or decides something dubious in pre-
ceding ones, a comparison of the later with the earlier specimens of the language may be
expected to throw light on the changes it has undergone.

Mr. Whipple's vocabulary, which was obtained from a chief of the tribe, named Black Beaver,
agrees remarkably, allowing for differences of hearing and spelling, with those in Gallatin's
Synopsis of the Indian Languages, and in the second volume of Schoolcraft's History, Condition,

REMARKS UPON THE DELAWARE AND SHAWNEE LANGUAGES.

61

find Prospects of the Indian Tribes, now publishing under the direction of the Bureau of Indian
Affairs.

The following plural formations are given by Mr. Whipple

a-lanq' star.

a-lan-goque stars.

a-lunth' arrow.

a-lunth-al arrows .

zit...
zit-a

.foot,
.feet.

de-lo-i-ka finger.

duth-the-a-co-lan-gar fingers.

According to Zeisberger, the plural terminations in the Delaware language are : animate, ah;
inanimate, all. This accounts for the two first examples, star being classed with animate
nouns ; the other two need explanation.

Shawnees (Soiv-on-no, plur. Sow-on-o-hi) . — Mr. Whipple says : " Considerable intimacy exists,
and intermarriages occur, between the Shawnees and Delawares. There is also some resemblance
in personal appearance, both wearing the moustache."

The Shawnee vocabulary, like the Delaware, will be of use to show the changes which the
language may have undergone. It was obtained from one of the tribe, and agrees very closely
with that in Gallatin's Synopsis, which, however, is made up from several sources, and is very
imperfect; where the two appear to differ, a comparison with that in the second volume of
Schoolcraft's work will clear up the apparent discrepancies.

The following plural formations are given :

il-le-ni .jplur. il-le-ni-ki.

Man

Leaf p'sis-keh

Foot (my) ni-thi-chi

Bone h'kah-nih

Shoe ho-quoi-thow-weh .

Tree te-qui ,

p'sis-ke-a-ki.
ni-thi-tah-lish.
h'kah-ne-lish.
he-quo i-thou-weh-nah.
te-cou.

These agree with the statement of Vater in the Mithridates. He says : " The usual plural,
ding is lie. In some words I find hie, cliie, or enna."

It will be observed that the accent is almost invariably on the final syllable.

62

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
CHOCTAW.

III. Choctaw.

III. Choctaw.

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant

Father

Mother

Husband

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Head

Hair

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Feet

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

Town, village
Chief

chi-to'-ka-ka (the great one)
ski-lom'-bish ok-pu'lo (spi-
rit had)
ha'-tak

0- ho'-yo

ul-la nak'-ni (child male)

ul-la tek (child female)

ul-lo-si

i'-ke

ish'-ke

1- ha'-tak (her-man)
tek'-chi

u'-shi
u-she'-tik

i-ti-ba-pi'-shi (together

suck)
f-tek (his sister)
ha'-tak ti-pi horn' -ma (man

trunk red)
nish-ko-bo
pa-shi
na-shu'-ka
i-bi-tak'-la
hak'-so-bish
nish'-kin
i-bi-shak-ni
i'-tih

i-sun-lush
no-ti

nu-tak'-hish
i-kon'-la
shak-ba
ib'-bak

ib-bak u'-shi (hand sons-of )

ib-bak chush

hak'-nip

ik-fo-ka

i-yi

i-yi

i-yu-shi (foot-sons-of)
fo-ni

clm'-kush
is'-sish
tum-a-ha
rru'-ko

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Kettle

Arrow

Bow

Axe

Hatchet

Knife

Canoe

Boat

Indian shoes .

Bread

Pipe, calumet

Tobacco

Sky, heaven..

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Lightning ....

Thunder

Rain

Snow

Hail

Fire

Water

Ice

Earth, land...

Sea

River

Lake

tush-ka

t'-ka-na (his-friend)

chu-ka

a-so'-nek

us'-ki na'-ki (cane bullet)

i-ti ta-nam'-po (wood gun)

is-ki'-fa

is-ki-fu'-shi

bush'-po

pe-ni

i-ti ku-la (wood dug-out)

shu'-lush

pus-ka

hak-chu-ma a shw-ka (to-
bacco where smokes)
hak-chu-ma
shu'-tik
hu'-shi

hush ni'-nak a'-ya (sun

night goes-along)
fi'-chik
ni'-tak
toh-wi-ke'-li
ni'-nak
ok-hli-li
on-na-hin'-li
o-pi-a

to-fah'-pi (first-of-summer)
to'-fah

hush-to-lah'-pi (first-of-win-

ter)
hush-to-la
mah'-li
ma-but'-ha
hi-lo'-ha
um'-ba
ok-tu'-sha
ha-ta'-fo
lu-ak
o'-ka
ok-ti
yak'-ni
ok-hu-ta

ok-hi-na (water-road), bok
ok-hu-ta

VOCABULARIES OP NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
CHOCTAW. — Continued.

63

III. Choctaw.

III. Choctaw.

Valley

Hill

Mountain

Island

Stone, rock

Salt

Copper

Iron

Maize

Tree

Wood

Leaf

Bark

Grass

Oak

Pine

Flesh, meat. . . .

Beaver

Deer

Bison, buffalo.

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Squirrel

Babbit

Hare

Snake

Bird

Featber

Wings

Egg

Goose

Duck

Pidgeon

Partridge

Turkey

Fly

Mosquito

Tortoise

Fisb

White

Black

Bed

Deep blue

Pale blue

ok'-fa
nu'-nih

nii-nih cha'-ha

ta-sha'-yi

tu'-li

hii'-pi

a-so'-nak lak-na

tu'-li

tan'-chi

i'-ti

i'-ti

i-ti hi-sbi (tree hair)

hak-shup

ha'-shuk

nu-su'-pi

ti-ak

ni'-pi

kin-ta

is-si

ya'-nush

ni'-ta

na-sho'-ba

o'-fi

chu'-la

fu'-ni

chuk'-fi

pu-ta kut-ta

sin'-ti

hu'-shi

shi-ko-pa

sa-nah'-chi

u-shi lo-bun-chi

shi-lak-lak

ok-fi-chush

pu-chi

ko-fl chi-to (quail big)

fa'-kit

shu'-shi

i-sa-pun'-tak

ha-cho-tak'-ni

nu'-ni

toh'-bi

lu'-sa

horn' -ma

ok-cha-ma'-li

ok-cba'-ko

Yellow

Pale green

Bright green..

Great, big

Small, little

Strong

Old

Young

Good

Bad

Handsome

Ugly

Alive

Dead

Cold

Warm

Hot

I

Thou

We (exclusive)
We (inclusive)

Ye

This

That

All

Many, much...

Who?

Near

To-day

Yesterday

To-morrow

Yes

No

Name

Affection

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

lak-na

ok-cha'-ko

kiKk-o'-ba

chi-to

is-ki-ti'-ni.

kuT-lo

si-pok'-ni

hi-mit'-ta

a-chuk'-ma

ok-pu'-lo

pi'-sa a-chuk'-ma (to-see
good)

pi'-sa ik a-chuk'-ma (to-see

not good)
ok-cka-ya
il'-li

ka-pus'-sa

li-bi'-sha

lush-pa

u'-no

chish'-no

pish' -no

hu.--pish.-no

hu-cbish-no

i-lnp-pa

yum-ma

mo -ma

lau-a

ku'-ta

o'-lan-li

hi-mak ni-tak (now day)

pi-la-sbash

ou-na-ha

yaw

ke-yu

hoh-cbi-fo

isbt-f'-bol-lo

a cbu'-fa

tuk-lo

tu-chi-na

ush-ta

ta-hla-pi

ha-na-li

un-tuk-lo

un-tu-chi-na

cba-ka'-li

C4

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

CHOCTAW. — Continued .

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen ....

Twenty

Twenty-one

Twenty-two

Thirty

Forty

Fifty

Sixty

Hundred
Thousand...

III. Choctaw.

III. Choctaw.

po-ko-li

Eat

im'-pa

au-ah-chii-fa

Drink

ish'-ko

au-ah-tuk-lo

ma-le-li

au-ah-tu-chi-na

Dance

hi'-hla

po-ko'-li tuk-lo

Go

i'-a

po-ko-li tuk-lo a-ku-cha a-

Come

min-ti (to start off),

chu-fa

(to arrive)

po-ko'-li tuk-lo a-ku-cha

Sit

bi-ni-li

tuk-lo

Stand

hi-ki-a

po-ko'-li tu-chi-na

Sing

ta-li-a

po-ko'-li ush-ta

nu-si

po-ko'-li ta-hla'-pi

a num-pu'-li

po-ko'-li ha-na-li

See

pi'-sa

ta-hle'-pa

ho li-toh-li

ta-hle'-pa si-pok-ni (hun-

Kill

u'-bi

dred old)

Walk

no'-wa

Remarks.

Choctaiv (Missionary spelling, Chdh-ta). — This vocabulary is drawn up by the Eev. Cyrus
Byington, who has resided over forty years as a missionary among this people. He has written
the only grammar that exists of the language ; and this, together with a dictionary, he is now
engaged in preparing for publication.

The vocabulary is essentially the same as that derived by Mr. Gallatin from the Rev. A.
Wright's Spelling-Book. The orthography, however, which is the excellent one of the late
Mr. Pickering, is more correct and uniform, and the analysis of compound terms is both inter-
esting and instructive. The terms "sons of the hand" for fingers, "tree-hair" for leaves,
11 water-road" for river, " night-travelling sun" for moon, by showing the manner in which
these familiar objects are regarded, so different from our conceptions, and so poetically original,
make us better acquainted with the native mind, by affording some glimpses of its operations.
From the expressions ct cane-bullet" for arroiv, and 11 wooden gun" for bow, it would appear
that these primitive implements have been so long out of use in the tribe that their original
names have been forgotten. These analyses show us, moreover, something of the grammatical
structure of the language : they show us that the members of a confound term bear the same
relative position to each other that they do in English, as i/i-kishi, tree-hair; that if two vowels
concur, the first is elided, as iyuslii, toes, from iyi, foot, and usM, son; that possessive pronouns
are placed, as in English, before the noun to which they belong, as i-kana, his friend ; and that
adjectives, on the contrary, are placed after their nouns, as Jcof ckito, partridge (lit. big quail).

This analysis of compound terms is so absolutely necessary to an intelligent comparison of
vocabularies, that when we are ignorant of the elementary terms which enter into the composi-
tion of words, we feel that, in attempting such comparisons, we are constantly treading on
uncertain ground. The reason is, that cognate tribes, whose languages are radically the same,
will not unfrequently invent totally different sets of expressions for the same objects, in conse-
quence of regarding them from different points of view, and thus greatly obscure the connexion
of the languages to the observer who looks upon each word as an undivided whole.

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

PAWNEE(?).

IV. KlCHAI.

V- Hueco.

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child

Father

Mother

Husband

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

Indian

American

Head

Hair

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Thigh

Calf (of leg)....

Foot

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

Town, village..

Chief

9 h

ah-ho'-ki-tou

wit-ar-e-ki-te
cai-u-qua-no'-quts .

che-quoike'

chots'-kek

cha'-kitsk

cha'-wa-dotz

chache.

chi-wa'
chos

In'-ni-kin-nish

qui' -tat-so

it'-sco-so

it'-scot

ni'-cok-hen'-ne. . . .

a'-tik-o-ro-rso

qui'-di-e-co

chus'-ca-rai-o

hok'-in-nik

hah'-tok

ath'-ne-sho

hah'-ca-rai-us

qui'-tot-hen-ne . . .

he'-te-que-o

ich'-shen-e

its-squit-a-he'-ok .

x'-squi'-e-to

to'-na-no

can'-na-hen-ne ...

kus-in'-ic
kish-ta-to

us-in'-ic

us-quits-ats-hen-e

ki-shi-ke'-e-to.

kid-i-ash'-i-kitz

to'-de-kitz

cah'-he-ic

wex'-e-ki

chad'-ax-e-ki

we'-di-kitz

tad'-cla

ats'-ia

nut-te'-ki-di

nut-te'-o-ki

nut-te-ya'-hi

nut-te-re-wa'-was-ki

nut-tut-re-at-si

nut-te-tat-si

ni-hash-quatz

at-ski-es'-ta-cak

ish-ke'-ste-atz

ich-c5h'

ni-c5k

ortz

ki'-dik

tisk

ah'-cok

hotz

ah-tk'

kid-e-wek'-ste-ask

ke-tisk'

weh

isk'tc

is-kitz'-e

is-quitz

kek

co'-wesh
cosh

os

os-kitz

6s-tots-kesk (ankle-bone)

shi-kitz

watz-kitz

ed-a-ta'-cuc-ki

e'-ker-quash, e-de

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
PAWNEE .—Continued.

IV. KlCHAI.

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Kettle

Arrow

Bow

Axe, hatchet..

Knife

Canoe, boat....

Shirt

Indian shoes ..

Bread

Ring

Pipe, calumet.

Tobacco

Sky, heaven...

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Wind

Lightning

Thunder

Kain

Snow

Fire

Water

Ice

Earth, land....

Sea

River

Lake

YaUey..

Hill

Mountain

Island

Stone, rock

Copper

Iron

Maize

oh-ca-we'-o-no

tscho-coi-ta-ria
qui'-o-cak

ye'-ce-ni'-e-to
ki'-o-kuh

V. Hceco.

e-de-ar'-te-da

e-ta-tatz'-wus-tuc-e

ix-cah'

ech-cur-resh

te'-quatz

kchets

ta-ha-kes'

ta'-ha

ar-ke-os

os-set

kid-es-cod-es

weh-ketz

weh'-ec

us'-cah

sah'-ki

mor

he'-qui-dic-co
toe'

wah-quish
hitz

wich-tah'-cu-cos
hah-de'-ten-ne
ul-la-shoh-kesk
du-eh

ud-du-wok'

te-kin-nicksh

tah-hai-dush

hid-ork'

hatz'

kits'-ah

duh-hitz-e

hi-dow'-at

tets-kit-sus

tuts-pid'-e-wa-sa

e-cu'-ak

ster'-e-co-ta'-hitz

ke-es-tid'-e-kit-squa

tiits-kid-e-wa-squa

kit-ti-kitz

i'-coh'

a-quitz'-is-quatz

a-quitz'-is-cut

task

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
P A W N E E. — Continued.

67

IV. KlCHAI.

Tree

Grass

Sumach

Flesh, meat....

Beaver

Deer

Bison, huffalo.

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Squirrel

Bahhit, hare . .

Snake

Battle-snake ..

Bird

Fish

White

Black

Bed

Yellow

Green

Great, hig

Small, little...

Good

Cold

Yes

No

One ;

Two

Three..

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen

Twenty

Twenty-one....
Twenty-two . . .

Thirty..

Forty

ki'-nitz

scoo-no-nia .

ah-i', wah-tlk

ho-oh'

a-rish'-co

cho'-sho, cho'-so

tah'-with-co ...*i.»»>

kith-nuc'-o-te

xs'tow-e-o

na-hi-tow

tsow'-e-ta-te

nai-ki-nuc-a-te

tan-i-ro-kat ,

x's-ka-ni

x'ka-ni-a-ni-ni-a-rish-co

x'ka-ni-a-ni-ni-cho-so

x'ka-ni-a-ni-ni-tah'-with

a-ris-qui-ni-ke'-ri-co

a-ris-quin-i-ke-ri-co-a-ni-ni-a-ris-co
a-r is-quin-i-ke-r i-co-a-ni-ni-cho-so . .
tah-with-quin'n'

V. Hueco.

ha-tq
hod-itz

wah'-hah-tut-se

ud'-ersh'

ki-tish'-ca-ta-its

doh'

tad'

wid-oc'

kit'-tux

kit-si'-el

ke-tuc-kesh

watz'-ah'

co'-kish

e-chach'-cur-ri-kitz

he'-ich

et'-sit

catz

a-ha'-cutz
a-ha'-cod-i
a-with-quach
chish

a-had-os-kitz

tatz-tid'-e-watz

te-eth-tid'-e-kitz

ut'-stetz-i

kitz-i-te'-oe'

a-he'

kid'-de

cheos

witz

tow

tah'-quitz

ish'-quitz

ki'-ash

ki-o'-whitz

ki-a'-tow

chosh-kit-te

skit-te-was

che-os-te-kit-te

witz-chitz-e-dach

tow-a-titz-e-dach

steds-ki-shi'

steds-ki-shi-che-o-te-kit-te
steds-ki-shi-witz-titz-a-dad'
6s-teds-ki-shi-tith-kitz-i
witz-steds-ki-shi

68

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
PAWNEE .—Continued.

IV. KlCHAI.

V. Hueco.

witz-steds-ki-shi-tith-kitz

tow-witz-steds-ki-shi

tow-witz-stecls-ki-shi-tith-kitz

tow-quith-teds-ki-shi

tow-quith-teds-ki-shi-tith-kitz

squets-tetz-ki-sha

tetli-kitz

te-hed' -its-cos

Tal'-le-wit-sus

O v

Canadian river

na'-oui
Kit'-sa-te

Kemabes.

Kichais (Keechies, KeeMes).*— " They live," says Mr. Whipple, "on the Canadian river, near
Choteau's old trading-house. Since he was killed, the place has heen entirely in their posses-
sion. The tribe is supposed to contain no more than five hundred warriors, perhaps less."
Captain Marcy places the number at only about one hundred.

Huecos. — The name is Spanish, and is sometimes corrupted by our writers into Wacoes. The
native appellation, according to Mr. Whipple, is Tal'-le-wit-sus. The Hueco and Witchita vil-
lages are located near each other, between the Washita and Red river, in about W. long. 98°
20'. "The Wacos," says Captain Marcy, "live about a mile above the Witchitas, in a village'
constructed precisely like the other. There are twenty lodges in this village j and about two
hundred souls ; their habits and customs are similar to the Witchitas, with whom they frequently
intermarry, and they are upon the best and most friendly terms." (Exploration of the Red
river of Louisiana, p. 78.)

The Huecos and Witchitas are said by Gregg to have received, in consequence of their profuse
tattooing, the name of Pawnee Picts. Hence it is probable that they are remnants of the Paw-
nees or Towiaches of Red river, described by Dr. Sibley. And these latter, from the former of
their two names, have been supposed (though this, in the absence of specimens of their lan-
guage, has been doubted) to be a branch of the great Pawnee nation, whose home is on the
Platte and Kansas rivers. The accompanying Kichai and Hueco vocabularies, both obtained
from individuals of these tribes, and the first ever published, enable us to make a comparison
with the Pawnee proper; the result of which is that these languages really do, in all probability,
belong to the Pawnee stock. For the purpose of this comparison, a few words are selected from
the Pawnee vocabulary of Dr. Say (with the orthography slightly altered) and the Riccaree
(or Black Pawnee) of Prince Maximilian. The Witchita vocabulary of Captain Marcy, which
I was formerly unable to place, here also finds its appropriate location.

Pawnee.

Riccaree.

Kichai.

Witchita.

Hueco.

Woman .
Mother . .

Ear

Nose ...

tsa-pat . .
a-ti-rah .
at-ka-ru
tshu-shu

che-quoike
cha'-che ....

sapa

schachti

atkahahn I a'-tik-o-ro-so .

siniht I chus-ca-rai-o.

kah-haak

nut-ti-co-hay'-he*

duts-tis'-toc*.

cah-he-ic
ats'-ia
ortz
tisk

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

69

Pawnee.

Riccab.ee.

Kichai.

WlTCHITA.

Hueco.

haw-coo*

ah'-cok

hutske*

hotz

sini-he'-ho*

isk'tc

dats'-oske*

OS

kee'-shaw

sah'-ki

kits-ah

kit-si' -el

a-ha'-cod-i

cheos

witz

tow

Mouth...
Tongue..
Hand ....

Foot

Sun

Water . . .

Dog

Black....

One

Two

Three....

tska-u

ha-tu

ik-shi-ri . . .

ash-u

sha-ko-ru..

kit-su

a-sha-kish.

ka-tlt

as-ku

pit-ku

tau-wit

hah-kau
hah-tu. .
eschu

scha-kuhn
stoh-cho . . .
chahtsch...

tecateh

achku

pittcho

tah-uitt

hok-in-nik
hah'-toh ...
ich-shen-e .

us-m'-ic.

ki'-o-koh.

a-rish-co

cho'-sho

tah'-with-co.

«* The Witchita words marked with an asterisk are from Schoolcraft's Hist., Cond., &c, V., 709 ; the rest are fromMarcy's
Exploration of the Red River.

70 VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

CADDO.

VI. Caddo.

VI. Caddo.

Man

Boy

Bison, buffalo

su'-oui

nut'-ti

si'-ast-si

te'-i-sa

cor'-co

ki-Sl''

' n-da'
tou'-na-ha
nort'-si'
ya'-ha

White

Old

Cold

Many, much

huc'-ca-io
hai-mai

hup'-pun-nus-chik

hai-cai

hun'-nis-ti

ha'-hut-ti

hac'-co-ho-do''

y-ah'

pit-tith'-ti
pa-ta-ni'

Wolf

Remarks.

The Caddos, says Mr. Whipple, live on Eed river. The tribe is small. (According to the
latest information, the whole number of the Anadahkoes, Caddoes, and Ionies, is but 500
souls.) They wear clothes, and look like Delawares. They have many guns. Their bows
and arrows look like those of the Comanches.

The vocabulary — of only twenty words — agrees well, as far as it goes, with that of Gray
in Gallatin's Synopsis, and that of Marcy in the fifth volume of Schoolcraft's great work.
Dr. Sibley, in speaking of the "Keyes or Keychies," says they "have their peculiar native
language, but mostly now [1805] speak Caddo, intermarry with them, and live together in
much harmony." These, as well as several other nations on like terms of intimacy with the
Caddoes, he says, "look up to them as their fathers, and join them in all their wars." Hence
Dr. Vater considers that their languages, though now different, had probably a common origin
with the Caddo. Whether the following resemblances to languages of the Pawnee stock are
owing to such relationship, or to long and intimate intercourse, is, for the present, left undeter-
mined.

Caddo.

Pawnee Affinities.

Tongue

Sun

Two

Three

see eeko

hatu (Pawnee), hahtu (Riccaree), hahtok (Kichai)
shakoru (Paw.), shakoona (Ric), sahki (Hueco)
kiokoh (Kich.)
icoh (Hueco)

pitku (Paw.), pitco (Ric), witch (Witchita), witz (Hueco)
tauwit (Paw.), towwit (Ric), taway (Wit.), tow (Hueco)

VOCABULARIES OF NOETH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

SHOSHONEE.

Tl

VII. Comanche.

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child.

Father

Mother

Hushand

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Head

Hair

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Thumh

Fore finger...
Middle finger
Third finger. .
Little finger..

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Foot

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

den'-nath-puk

wai'-ith-puk

tu'-i-nuth-puk

teith'-tuch-te wai'-ith-puk .

oh'-nah

ni-ah'-puk (my)

ni-bi'-a <c

ni-wuth'-nuth-puk "

ni-qu'-ur "

ni-e-tu'-er "

ni-ve'-ti "

ni-a-tam-i "

a'-ta-bitz

pa'-pi
pa'-pi
cai'-if.

nuk'.

u-pou-i
mo'-bi..
tup' ....

e -con

tam'-an

o-mortz'-on .
o-toi'-yop....

per'-don

o-math'-pan
o-moh'

o-mas'-it.

pis'-po, u-sap'.
u-t5h'-hob

na -pe .

suf'-nip-a..

o-pihv

puh'-pis-ta.

VIII. Chemehuevi.

pu-ant' .

ta-watz'

ma-ru'-qua.

ai'-patz

nai-its'-it . . .

mu -o .

par-vitch'.

nin

mu-ta'-co-wa.

tor-pip'

co-ba'-nim

mu-ta'-can....
nan-ca'-ba

pu-our

mu-vi'

tim-pou'-o .

a-go'

tow-wa'

mut-za'

cu-ran -mm

an-ga'-wa-nim.
ma-si'-wa-nim.

ma-to-wa-nim
ma-cou-yo
ma-ou-ra-nim
ou-w in-e-r e-itch
ma-cou'-a-wi-nim

ma-dit-som

nu-a'-nim

sha-pu'-nim

pun-ca'-wim

nam'-pan .
ta-pun'-ie . .

pi-in'

par-i-pi ,

IX. Cahuillo.

hem'-nok

te'-o-Mv-el

na'-ha-nes

ni'-kil

ke'-at

i'-nis-mal

pa'-nis-pu'-li

ne'-na

ne'-yih

no-wel'-is-u

mu-ke'-a-di

no-mail'-yo

e-mail'-yo

nac'-is

ni-yul'

ta'-hal-shut

ni-yul'-u-ka

pi'-i-ki

ne'-push

nu-i'-yi

na-nock'-a

na'-push

ne'-mu

ne-tam'-a

ne-nun

ne-tam'-a

nul-tam'-an

nu-cus'-pi

ne-m5k

ne-mo-hem'-osh
ne-mo-aks'-o-wish

ne-mo-nim'-yo-mim

ne'-to

ne-ti-i

ni-chi'-na

ne'-ik

ne-sal'-o

ne'-ta

ne'-sun

ne'-o

72

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
SHOSHONE E. — Continued.

VII. COMAJJCHE.

VIET. Chemehuevi.

IX. Cahuillo.

Sweat

Town, village

Chief

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Kettle

Arrow

Arrow point

Bow

Gun (rifle)

Axe, hatchet

Knife

Canoe, hoat

Ship

Moccasins

Bread

Pirje, calumet

Tobacco

Sky, heaven

Clouds

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Whirlwind

Lightning

Thunder

Bain

Snow

Fire

Smoke

Water

Spring (of water).
Ice

soh'-ti-cath-ni-ca-ti'

tek'-huen-e-wup'

na'-hi-te-cot

hai'-ich

cah'-ne

pa -can

hu'-et

pi'-ai-et
ho-wun-ni
wih'

qua'-ha-di

nap'p

ti'-a-sath-ta.

toh'-i

pah'-mon....

tom'-ork
tab'b ....

men -l

tatz'-i-no'p

hues-tai'

eh-cah'-cuis-chi .
tu'-can'

puh'-et-sko..
i'-ir-ho-meh
pa'-tets-o-pe
tah'-ma-roi .

etz'-e-it

e'-cak-quitz-el.
to'-mo-yah'k ..

ir'-mad

tah ''-cab

cun ,

pa

tah "-cab

pah-ca'-ba
car-nia, cut'-can..

to-wun'-io

now'-i-qui

te'-gi-bu

ca'-ni

pam-pu'-ni

nu

ou-nap'-pe

atz

ta-ca'-be-ne-pa . . .

ouitz

pah-ga'-ba

pah-gap'-a

sah-mit'-i-wap

tshu

co-ap'-e

tu-up'

ta'-ba-putz

mi-a'-go-ro-pitz . .

put'-sip

tu-war'-u-wit

ta-si'-va

tu-wun'

tu-wab''-i

ta-bar'-e-wik-it. . .

ta-ba'-butz-i-pa . .

ta-man'

term

yo-wiin

ni-gaf

tu-run'-ia

ya-ga-niic

to-nan'-nuc

pah-pitz

nu-a-ve ,.

cun...

quip

pah

pi-ca'-bo

mi'-bi-pe-bo-kish'

net'-i

wil'-nit

ne-tath'-lo

kish

me'-to-wil-kish'
hul

chu-quil' -no-pish

tu-qush'
tu-qush'
kel'-o-wut

ne-wak'-a
sa'-wish
yu'-lil
pi' -but

tu-qush-a'-mi-ca

ta'-mit

men'-yil

che'-hi-am

tam'-yit

ki'-sish

tuc-mar'-pish

ai-tol-s5w'-wi

pai-i-pa

toh-pa'-hi-pa

yah'-i

ai-tul-sow'-wi

ait-zow-mi

wi-win'-cul

yu-yut

cut

pal

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
SHOSHONE E. — Continued.

73

VII. Comanche.

VIII. Chemehdevi.

IX. Cahuiilo.

Earth, land

Sea

River

Lake

Valley

Hill

Mountain

Island

Stone, rock

Salt

Copper

Iron

Maize

Tree

Wood

Leaf

Bark

Acorns

Grass

Pine

Cedar

Flesh, meat

Beaver

Deer

Elk

Antelope

Mountain sheep .
Bison, Buffalo....

Cow

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Panther

Squirrel

Rabhit, hare

Snake

Rattle-snake

Bird

Feather

Egg

Goose , ,

Duck

Partridge ,

Turkey

Fish

10 i

soc'-co-be.

pi'-ap-ti-ho'-us

te'-ith-tis-chi-ho'-no

toi'-yab

pi'-ap-si toi'-yab

tup'-pist

or'-na-bist

eh'-ca-ui

tath'-con

hun'-i-bist

pi'-ap-thi hoth'-pist.

pu'-hip

poh'-ap
pah'-sah-pu-ni

show'-ni'p

wor-co-bith
wath'-pith

tuth'-cup' ,

hah'-nis

ad'-e-cah

cuth''-son

ouis'-tu-wa

wid'-der

cuth'-se-i-na..

sad'-di

wah''-nic

toi-a-duth-co
wah'-co-woi

tah'-bon ,

nu'-hia .,

huth'l'-su.

u-no'-io

pen'-yan

tid'-e-eth-cu-yo-nis-te . .
pi'-apth-e-cu'-yo-nis-te
pe-e-que

te-wip
ot-zip .
pah

pah-ga'-ri

u-nu-wip

caib

te-witz-e-caib
pah-run-o-quitz
timp

u-a'-ve

pah-nxih'..
hah-wib' . .
u'-wip
cou'-cup
po-wi'-uk

shu'-but

tu'-quoi

pah-winch'
te'-e

pa-ri
want'-zit
nahgt
cooch'-o . .

pah-pow'-o .
shi-i-nap' . . .
sha-rich ....
tu-cu'-mich

cam

cu'-yatz

pi-ta'-o
wi-o-nat'-ko.
ya'-ra-ke
chu'-ke

ca-car

pah-ge'

te'-mul

hil'-i-wit

wa'-nish

we'-wu-nit

te'-mul-tat'-chow

ow'-so-ni

tu'-quush

cow'-wish

tul'-nik-ish
te'-mul

pa'-ho-with-lim

wa-'i

su'-quut

u'-cha-nut

hu'-nu-it

is'-o-wit

a'-wul

su'-ish

se'-wit
pa'-hin-chim

wit'-chu-cul-ba

74

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
SHOSHONE E.— Continued.

VII. Comanche.

VIII. Chemehtjevi.

IX. Cahuillo.

White

Black

Bed

Blue

Yellow

Green

Great, big . . .
Small, little.
Strong

Old

Young

Good

Bad

Handsome ...

Ugly....

Alive, life

Dead, death.

Cold

Warm, hot..

I

Thou

He

We

You

They

This

That

All

Both

Many, much.

Who

Near

Far

To-day

Yesterday ...
To-morrow...

Yes

No

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

tos'-a-fit
tu'-huft ,
e'-cof-te ,
e'-fift

ef-fift

pi'-apth'

te'-ath-tes-te

cuth'-ta-with'-to-nets, not'-
sut

su'-cuth-pur

tu'-i-bis-chi

ptschat, chat

tith'-chit

tis'-chit

kes-te'-yait ,

pues-te'-yait

utz-ait, quih'-ni.

urd-eit ,

net'-za

un'-nt'

or'-dt-za

nen-net-za

nah'-meh-co ,

or'-di-et'-za

i'-noc-wi-ti

or'-dit

or-yoc

nuth'-meh'-co
di-hitz-sort

mi'-stis-chi

ta'-ben

kut'-to

peu-et-sko

haa

ke

sim-m'

wah'-hat ;,

pa'-hist

hai'-o-do-quit ,

moi'-be-ca

o'-yoh-pa-fist I na-bai'...

tah't-suth I mo-quist'

tu-sha'-ga-re...
sha-wa'-ga-re . .

en-ca'-ga-re

shaw-wa'-muk.
hiir-ben-ca-re..
tu-pai'

ac-conte'

yuh'-pu-itz

cu-it'-zic

na-nap -per

o-coch'-tim

at'

cu-cha', cat-tu-sho'-a.

naitz

ma-ma'-o

ni-nu-yesh'-ma

ni-ai'-qua

shu-i-ya'

con-shu'-i-go-nuc

nii-u'

hai'-i-co

ein-pa'

ma-no-ni.

avat' ,

sa-gatch
mi-o'-ni
a-u'-bit . .

ach'-e-cusht .

u-wai'

each

shu'-ish

wai'-i

pai'-i

wat-chu'

ma-nu'

te'-wish-nik

tu'-liksh

sel'-nik-ish

tu'-quik-nish

te'-sik-nish

om'-now-it

i'-nis-mal , i-nis-el-at-tai

nis'-lo-gul

pa'-nis

at'-tai

e-lel'-quish

e'-i-to

e-lel'-quish

pa'-cul

mu'-qush, yu-i-mi-e-si
e-si

si'-wu-mai

neh

eh

peh

che'-mim

eh'-mim

i'-wim

i-wi

peh

u-mim

met'-e-wit

a-ta-ha-eh/

sun'-chi

chi'-va

pai-can

pai'-i-pa

hec

ki'-il

su'-pli

me-wi'

me-pa'

me-wi'-chu

no-me-quad-nun

quad-nun-sup'-pli

quan-mun-wi'

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
SHOSHONE E. — Continued.

75

VII. Comanche.

VIII. Chemehubvi.

IX. Cahuillo.

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven ...
Twelve...
Thirteen.
Twenty..
Thirty...
Forty ....

Hundred .

Eat ,

Drink

Run

Dance

Sit

Stand

Go

Come

Sing

Sleep

Speak

See

Love

Kill

Walk

Negro

White man

Rich man

Old woman

Young woman...

Very good

Almost day

Water is too far.

Make a fire

Hunt for it

Come eat

Not dead yet

Who is that?....

I go

Thou goest

He goes

We go

Ye go

nem'-me-waht-sut

se -er-man-o

sef-er-man-o-wump'-net.

natch . . .
u-wip' . . .
ma-shu' .

tith'-ca-doh

pues-n'e-hi'-be (I drink).

tu'-netht'ch

nith'-cat

ih-card

warn

kim

te'-ni-quer

erth'-pu-i-do-i . . .

te'-qua-den

oh'-co-bon

o-cuni-ma-cu't'.

ou-beth'-ca-ne' .

They go ,

to'-oh-tai-bo

pa'-bo-tai-bo

ti-bitz-cha-nath'-co-te

hr'-bis-chis-chi

nai'-bist

ti-bits-chat

tah'-kin

man'-ak-quie-te-pa'
coth'-to
o-wehv-iki
tith'-cak
kes-te'-yait
hu-si-ha'-card
net'-za mia-doi
iin'-nt' mia
or'-dt-za miad
nen-net-za miad
nah-meh-co miad
or-di-et'-za miad

wai-ma-shu

pai-i-ma-shu..

wat-chu-i-ma-shu .

mat-shu'-i-ma-shu

te-ca'-ba

he-bi'-ba

no-quin'-na

wi-no'-mi-no .
ca-re'

pai'-que . .

pai'-ik

ho-bit'-to

o-pun'-io. .
em-pa'-no.
pu-ni'-ca . .

pi-a'-much, a'-shin
teic

pa-cai'

pa-gan'-no

quan-mun-pa'

quan-mun-wi'-chu

no-ma-chu'-mi

pe-ta-su'-pli

pe-ta-wi'

pe-ta-pa'

wis'-no-ma-chu'-mi
pas'-no-ma-chu'-mi
no-me-quad-nun - no-
ma-chu-mi (50 ?)

wai'-e-cun
pa'-ka

nu'-win-nish
chen'-ge-nut

mu'-luk
wa'-e-hi

ha-ne-chim-cu'-pa

cuk'-tish

ne-te'-ik

me -ca

76

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

SHOSHONE E. — Continued.

VII. Comanche.

VIII. Chemeiiuevi.

IX. Cahuillo.

I went this way

Where are you going ?

It is raining

It is going to rain

It almost rains

Red river

Canadian river

i'-ho-ne-ha-mia

n'na-ha'-ca-po-mia-ai

er'-rna-io

er'-math-kin

em-ho'-mia

E'-cow-o-que

Tu-so-ho-o-qui, or Pas'-i-ho-

no

Names of Chiefs.

Crooked Stick
Big Belly

Eh'-co

Bi-a-bis'-po-ca-te
Pah'-doh-co-nin'-nup

Coon Breast

Remarks.

The natives who speak these languages helong to the great Shoshonee, or Snake family :
which comprehends the Shoshonees proper, of Southern Oregon ; the Utahs, in the region
around the Great Salt lake; and then, extending south and west, the Pah-Utahs, west of the
Colorado, and the Indians of the Missions of Southern California, the Kizh (of San Gabriel), the
Netela (of San Juan Capestrano), and the Kechi (of San Luis Rey) ; and on the south and east,
the Comanches of the prairies.

The Comanches (called also Hietans, or Ietans, and Paducas) range from the sources of the
Brazos and Colorado rivers of Texas, over the great prairies of the West, stretching from the
Indian territory to the spurs of the mountains that hound the valley of the Rio del Norte, and
as far north as the upper waters of the Arkansas. Their chief dependence is on the huffalo,
and with these animals they roam from south to north in the spring, and from north to south
in the autumn. According to Lieutenant Whipple, they are on friendly terms with the Lipans,
Huecos, Hainais, Kichais, Witchitas, and Tancoways, and all range together. They fear the
Osages.

The first Comanche vocahulary published was that of Mr. Bollaert, printed in the second
volume of the Journal of the London Ethnological Society. It consists only of some translated
proper names, and the numerals as far as twenty. Other and much fuller vocabularies have
since been published by Berghaus, Schoolcraft, and Marcy. That of Mr. Whipple was taken
down at Beavertown, on the Canadian river, from the dictation of an intelligent Cherokee,
named Jesse Chisholm, a man well acquainted with the neighboring tribes and their languages.
Prom the phrases appended to the vocabulary, no definite conclusion can be drawn. They pro-
bably contain many inaccuracies.

The Chemehuevis are a band of Pah-Utahs, (called Pa-Yutes, Pai-Utes, Pintes, Pinches, dtc.,)
i. e. "Utahs of the River," of whose language, a vocabulary, obtained from the chief of the
band, is here for the first time made public. It agrees most nearly with Simpson's Utah, and
Hale's East Shoshonee.

The Cahuillos (or Ca-ioi'-os). — Of these a rancheria was met with near the Pacific, between
the sources of the San Gabriel and Santa Anna. The vocabulary was .obtained from an old
Indian who had lived with the priests at San Luis Rey until the breaking up of the mission.
It exhibits the closest affinity to the Kechi and Netela, especially the former. Its affinity to
the Kizh is equally evident. The following comparative table will make this plain. The Kechi

VOOABULAKIES OP NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

77

words are from a manuscript vocabulary taken by the Hon. John R. Bartlett, while engaged on
the Mexican Boundary Survey; the Netela and Kizh are from Hale's Philology of the Explor-
ing Expedition.

Father
Mother
Head..,

Ear

Eye

Nose ...
Arm....
Heart . .
Blood.,
Chief..
House .
Arrow ,
Bow ...
Sun ....
Moon..,
Fire ...
"Water.
Bear...
Deer...
Wolf..
Dog ...

I

Thou..

He

One....
Two...,
Three .
Four...

Cahuileo.

ne'-na (my)

ne'-ylh

ni-yul'-uka
na-nock'-a..
na'-push ....

ne'-mu

ne-mok

ne-sun.

ne'-o

net'-i

kish ,

hul

chu-quil'-no-pish

ta'-mit

men'-y il

cut

pal,

hu'-nu-it
su'-quut ,
is-o-wit . .
a'-wxil ....

neh

eh

peh

su'-pli....

Kechi.
(San Luis Rey.)

me-pa'

me-wi'-cbu,

peh-nah' (his)..

peh-yo'

po-ya'

no-nak'

pu-sun'-o-push .

ne-ma'-bi ,

no-ma'

no-shon ..,

no-6h

not

ki'-cha

no-hu'

ko-to-pis

te-met'

moi-la

kut

pa-la

hu'-nu-it

su-kut

i-sunt

a-wal'

no

om

w'nal

su-pul

weh

Netela.

(San Juan Capesirano.)

Kizh.
(San Gabriel.)

nana

noyo

nuyu

nanakum..
nopulum . .
nomuuum .

nama,

nosua
■j

pai

wah-sah'

noo'

not

nikl

hul

kutupsh

temet

mo-i'l ...
mughat.

pal

bunot . . .

sukot

Tsot

aghwal .

no

om

wanal . . .

puku

wehe . ...

pahe

watsa ...

anak

aok

apoan

anana, najas

atshotshon

comepin, mupin

aman, man

ahung, sun

akhain

tomer

kitsh, kin

tshuar, nihun

paitkhuar, paitokh

tamet

mo-ar

tshawot, tSina

bar

hunar

shukat

Ishot, Isot

wausi, wasi

noma

oma

ahe, pa-e

puku

wehe

pahe

watsa

It will be observed that, in those languages of the Shoshonee family which we have been
considering, the place of the accent is reckoned, not from the end, as in the classical tongues,
but from the beginning of the word. In Comanche the accent is on the first syllable, with but
few exceptions, as when a possessive pronoun is prefixed. Sometimes there is a secondary
accent; this appears, for the most part, when the word contains more than four syllables, and
is generally placed on the fifth from the beginning, as te'-ith-tis-chi-ho'-no, valley. In Cheme-
huevi and Cahuillo the accent is less regular : but in the former it is usually on the second
syllable ; and in the latter, on the first.

78

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
KIO WAY.

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child..

Father

Mother

Husband

Wife

Son =

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Mexican

American

Head

Hair

Face ,

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose ,

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Foot

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

Town, village.

Chief

Warrior

X. KlOWAY.

pu'-ha-sun

dow'-o-ki-i

ki-an'-i

ma-yi'

tu-quois

ma'-tow (n nasal)
tal-yi'

tow-wath-tow'-i

coh'

ki-ia

ki-u?i'

a-tu'-a

se-i-tonc

pa-pi'-e

tone

co'-tat-sen

ta'-be-bo

cor'-nu-co-ya'

ki-a-ku'

o-o'-to

ca-u'-pa

ta-u'-pa

ta-a'-ti

ta-a'-ti

mau-con'

sur'-ol

den

zun

sen'-poh

k'coul

mor'-ta

mor'-ta

mor-ditz-on'

mor-ditz-on'

cu'-kia

buh'

pa'-ras

on-sut'

mor-ditz-on'

ton'-sip

ten

um

tu-6i

tan-gu'-a

ten-con

X. KlOWAY.

Friend

House, hut

Kettle

Arrow ,

Bow

Axe, hatchet..

Knife

Canoe, boat...,
Indian shoes..,

Bread ,

Pipe, calumet,

Tobacco

Sky, heaven . . ,

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness...
Morning....

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Lightning. .
Thunder....

Bain

Snow ,

Hail

Fire ,

Water

Ice

Earth, land.

Sea

Kiver

Lake

Valley

Hill

Mountain....

Island

Stone, rock .

Copper o-tu'-i-te

'tzah

tu

'tzu

arc-u'

zip' -co

hout'-ho

tlick-ho

tzu

tu'-ti

co'-ot-oui

so'-o-tu

ta'-po

ki-a'-coh

pai

pa

tah

ki-uth'-pa

bu'-u

gi-i-ki

ki-ha-u'-ti

kai'-ne-co

te-hi'

tub'

so'-ol-pups

suh'

tuh

gum'-ti

bu'-im-pa-yip'-co

poth'-suth

seip'-toh

'tul

'ten

pi'-a

'tu

ten'-ki-a
pai

se'-it-zo

o'-si

coi-tal'

ke-a-ku'

pi'-e-ti

ki-a-tah'-pa

gum'-ki-ath-tonc'

'ts'u

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
K 1 0 W A Y . — Continued.

79

X. KlOWAT.

onc'-i

e'-tahl

ai

"Wood

sa'-os

T rt

ai'-te

"T> ~ 1

tou-cor

son

/-\ i

suh

i'-pah

Til 1 J

Ilesn, meat

ki

pu'-i-to

ton-ki'-e-ni

Bison, buffalo....

col

tarn -til

Wolf

al-pa-goi

Dog

nt-se'-io

Fox

ba'-o

Kab"bit, hare

ki-ai'-ol

sa-o-ni'

Bird

cu'-a-toh

Egg

ten-tah'

kai-pah-tul

Duck

ah-coh'-i

tohl-qua

Partridge

cu'-pe-sa

Turkey

cu'-pe-sa

tom'-ke-a-su

tai

Black

con'-ki

gu-or'-dl-toh

saw'-hai

Yellow

cor -ta

tu-ta

it

Small, little

son

j_

cut

Old

com'-toh

tu'-quoil

tu'-se-now

Bad

pu'-u

tah'-ki

Ugly

(tlick)-on'-ta

Alivej life

pe'-he

Dead, death

pe'-toh

Cold

tuh

Warm, hot

sahl

X. KlOWAT.

I

no

Thou

am

He

kin

We

ki-mi'

Ye

tu-sa

They

cu-ta

This

tom'-ki

That

u'-I-ta

All

ti

Many, much

oi

Who

u'-i-te

Near

ki-at-si'

To-day

i'-ho

j

can'-i-co

tip-ho'-i

Yes

ho'-o

No

ho'-a-ni

One

pah'-co

J.

Two

gi'-a'

pa'-o

Four

i'-a-ki

Five

on'-to

Six

mos'-so

pan'-tsa

Eight

i-at'-sa

Nine

coh'-tsu

Ten

cok-hi

Eleven

pa'-ta

gi'-a-ta

pa'-o-ta

i'-uth-ki'-a

pa'-ta

i-uth-ki-a-ta gi-a-ta

Thirty

pa'-o-ki

Forty

i-at-ki'-a-ki

Fifty

on'-tok-i

mos-so-a-ki

Hundred

co'-to-ki

Eat

a-to'-hi

ki-a-tun'-to

yi-aith'-po

be-gu'-in

Go

a-pa'-to

bi-do'-pait

bi-moh'

em-tum'-ki

80 VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

K I 0 WAY . — Continued.

X. KlOWAY.

X. KlOWAY.

ah-boh'
e-ma'

Kill

em-hult'
em-to'-ki

Walk

Eemarks.

Kioways (Cai'-gua). — It was the opinion of Lewis and Clarke, as well as of Pike, that the
Kioways belong to the same stock and speak the same language as the Comanches and Utahs,
with whom they have long been associated. Long, however, speaks of the language as "ex-
ceedingly difficult," and "abounding in strange sounds;" whereas it is well known that the
Comanche is sonorous and pleasant to the ear. Captain Marcy, too, in his recently published
Exploration of the Red Eiver, says, "these tribes have similar habits, but speak different
languages." The Kioway vocabulary taken by Dr. Say was unfortunately lost; so that in the
one presented us by Mr. Whipple, which was obtained from Andres Nunares, a Mexican who
had been for five years a captive in the tribe, we have for the first time the means of judging
for ourselves of the correctness of these different opinions. A comparison of this vocabulary
with those of the Shoshonee stock does, it is true, show a greater degree of resemblance than is
to be found in any other direction. This resemblance, however, is not sufficient to establish a
radical affinity, but rather appears to be the consequence of long intercommunication.

KlOWAY.

Son

Brother

Face

Tooth..,
Neck....
Hand . . .
Bone....
Kettle..

Star

Great...
Strong .

I

Thou...

Yes

One

Two ....
Three ..

a-tu'-a . .
pa-pi'-e
ca-u'-pa

zun

k'coul..
mor'-ta .
ton-sip ,

'tzu

tah

it

cut

no ,

am ,

ho'-o
pah-co.,
gi-a'....
pa-o

Shoshonee affinities.

itue (W. Shosh.), ner-too'-ah (Com.)
po-pet (Kechi)

hoba, (W. Shosh.), cobanim (Chem.), koveh, cai-if (Com.)

tang-wa (Shosh.), tah-nee (Com.)

kuro (Shosh.), kolph (Utah)

mob, masseer (Utah)

tso-nip, so-nip, suf-nip-a (Comanche)

tsida (W. Shosh.)

ta-arch (Com.)

yoit (Kizh)

cu-it-zu (Chem.), keatuh (Com.)

nu-u (Chem.), no (Netela, Kechi), ne (Com.)

oma (Kizh), om (Netela, Kechi)

aha (W. Shosh.), oho (Kechi), ha, haa (Com.)

puku (Kizh, Netela)

wai-i (Chem.), wehe (Kizh, Netela), wa-ha (Com.)
pahaiu (W. Shosh.), pahe (Kizh, Netela), pa-hu (Com.)

Some resemblances are likewise to be observed between the Kioway and the languages of the
southern and western tribes of the Sioux or Dakota stock ; and it even appears to contain a few
Athapascan words. All these, however, are doubtless to be attributed to the wandering life of
the Kioways, which brings them into contact with many different tribes.

VOCABULAEIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
APACHE.

81

God

Devil

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child

Father

Mother

Husband

Wife

Son.

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Head

Hair

Face

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Feet

Toes

Man's privates
Woman's do. .

Heart

Blood..

Town, village.

Chief

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Spear, lance _.

Arrow

Bow

XL Navajo.

bos

da-dith'-hal
hust-tkin' _ .
est'-san-ni . .

esh-ki'

et-tei'

et-te'-et-is-si

shi-je-ec'

she-ma"

sha-a-at
sist-san'-ni

shi-oe'-ec

shi-nal'-li

shi-nai'-e

shi-te-ji'

nash-taj'-je

bet-si'

tchlit

ni'-la

tschar

nin-nar'

nit-chi'

bi'-das-cho
bi-go'

bi-da-ga'

bith-lot'

shith'-lit

shi-lat-tai-e-te

shi'-lat-sit

shi-lash'-cat

at-zat'

tchat

t'clat

t'ke-e.

shi-lat-sit'

e-che'-i

tith'l

yat-kin'

heu'-jeu-nats-olt

hain'-gli

si-t'kiss

ho -gun'

t'kar

al-ti-hin" .
11 %

XII. Pinal Leno.

pay-yah'-nay
et-sunny
ashkmyee
pay-sen-diltch

ish-ee-kaie
sunne-hai

has-tee-you

setz-e-zil'

sitz-char
chin-dar
chin-chee
chin-gou

chit-ah'-gor

aal-hot-dit-ton

chi-con

chun'-lah

chil-a-con

coat-see

see-chat
sitz-kay

chil-ah
chose

co'-wan (nasal)
ail-lot- tai
h'char
ithl-tinc

Gun

Powder

Ball

Frying-pan

Jar

Cup

Basket

Wooden platter . .

Axe, hatchet

Knife

Needle

Awl

Moccasins

Sandals

Straw hat

Black hat

White beaver hat.

Coat

Shirt

Blanket

Navajo blanket ._
Serape

XL Navajo.

'tsin'-il
pesch . .

tene'-wi-ke-ec

Serape Colorado -

Serape pinto

White clothes

White trowsers - .

Cotton trowsers

Leggins

Hunting dress

Canvas..

Bed cloth ...

Finger-ring

China

Wood (manufac'd)

Halter

Soap

Paper.

Large book

Bread

Tobacco

Sky, heaven

Sun

Moon

Star

Light

Night

Darkness

les-an'-ni

nat'-to

tath'-lit

da'-cos

'tsa'-di

ol-che'-ec

ni'-lath-lit
dat-lc-da
hi-nol-ch«' ec

XH. Pinal Leno.

pay-dil-tooh

tah't-lic

cah't-a-chu'-lee

is-saw

eis-sah

payth'l-con

eet-taye

ut-tzar

paysche

pay-nay-cot-ee

sat'l

kay-ah, kay

chat-lee-kay

choth-il-hith

choth-lee-pan-hith

ay-tonc

il-kaye-ke

chee-day

chee-dil-hith

chith-lee-kaye, chee-doe-
tliz

chith-lee-chee

chi-nas-conc

souch-claiee

as-nas-tu'-le-kayee

na-du-conc, as-nas-tic

ist-klai

chi-nan-dcnc-conc

tal-a-way-zis

na-day-coth-le-chic

chay-con bassay-onde

tay-bethl-nee

dilt-chic

cloath'l

ait-ap-tan-goose
nalt'-sose

nalt-sose-en-char-hith

nat-toe, nat-oh-tith-hilth

yah-eye'

eel'-sonc-sayer

ail-son-sat'-you

82

VOCABULAEIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

APACHE .—Continued.

XI. Navajo.

Morning

Evening .

Summer

Winter

Lightning

Rain

Snow

Fire

Water

Ice

Earth, land

Sea

River -

Lake -

Valley

Hill

Mountain

Stone, rock

Salt

Obsidian

Iron

Tree

Bush

Wood

Leaf

Bark

Grass

Oak

Pine

Mezquit

Me zeal

American straw.

Flesh, meat

Deer

Bison, buffalo

Bear

Wolf

Coyote

Dog

Squirrel

Horse

Mule

ls-car -go

ca-det'-a-i-a

nes-tan'-ni

nes-tan'-es-cus

cli'-pa-uot

him-il-ti-hun

yas

'tcou

'thu

satz

klish

t'huth-la'

t'huth-la'

shithl-gash

chi-6t'

ba-gan'-go

ba-gand'-zat

tse-ec

hish-in

tsit

se-detz-o-bitz-it

tsin

dat-tar'
qui-hi
chithl ..
ha-wish
ha-shi

XII. Pinal Leno.

et-si'

Pi

kil-cho'
sha-she
mait-zo

le-chonc'
ziir-je' . .

cai-ur-je
'telis'-je-i
' telisch
tscit

CO

tlez

i-check
tshayer
ish'-ee
olien

m'cliz
chiz

chlow

ee'-yah
nat-tar
pi-ta-ca-yo
ait-sinc, ait-chee-got'l
non-wan-jai-day'

sasch

boch

chinch-on-you-daier'
eleene (nasal)
chan-day'-zic
tig-ool-coy-air'

toz-zee

XI. Navajo.

XII. Pinal LenO.

Egg

cho-ki

Duck

elt-ze-di

Partridge

'tcli-vat-cli-gi

White

' telac-hai

Black

teli-gi'

Red

cli-chi

Blue

dot-clish'

Yellow

clit-zo'

Great, big

nint-sa'

Small, little

tscis'-si

Strong

dal-chu'

Old

haist'-ti

Young

elt-zis'-si

Good

ia'-shu

Bad

ta-ia'-shu-da

Handsome

ni-zen-ni

Ugly

tuh-ni-tschu'

Dead, death

dust-sa'

Cold

dest-tcas

Warm, hot

sit- to'

I

ni

Thou

shi'-do-ta

He

nil'-lad

They

nil -lad

This

ail'-la

All

dalt'-zo

Many, much

thlao

Who

ha'-la-ai (who is it ?)

Near

a-han'-ne-gi

Yesterday

e-ta'-da

To-morrow

is-car'-go

Yes

shi

No

do-la'

One

tath-lai'

Two

na'-ki

Three.

t'ha

Four

t'hi

Five

est-cla'

Six

has-tar'

Seven

tsot-zi

Eight

tsep'-pi

Nine

nast-tai'

Ten*

ni-eth-nc'

Eleven

cla-da'-ta

Twelve

na-ki-da-ta

Thirteen

t' ha-da-ta

Twenty

nat-tin

Thirty

t' hat- tin

kar-keh'
ast-chou

hai-eel-conc

VOCABULARIES OP NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
APACHE .—Continued.

83

XI. Navajo.

1

XII. Pinal Leno.

tain-yar

tai-clanc

nu-gotn l

Dance --

il'-jish

Go .--

ca-de'-na-is-ta'

Come

os-de'-ni-a

Sit

na'-dit-ta

Stand

sen'-si-go

Sing

hot'-hol

Sleep

el-hush

Speak

e-chi-al'-tin

See

nish-i

Love

a-ha'-la-ni

Kill

di-ol-hil'

Walk

ha no-nuh'

Bring water

Como se llama ?.

Pinal

Cibolo

Pueblo de Moqui

Rio Grande

Rio Gila

Rio San Pedro

Rio Colorado

Agua Pinta

Sierra Grande

Sierra Blanca

Pleiades (seven stars)

Principal chief (name)

Second prin'l chief (name)

XI. Navajo.

ti'-dow-ol-ge'

hut-kin-go

XII. PiXAi. Leno.

tai-to

Del-chid-dee-gil-lay
Pis-is-chit

Kay-ee

Kay-eel-chow

Tooch-o-sayer

Tool-chee-air

Toos-eel-hec

Sid-in-tell

Chid-lee-casa-an'

Ais-lat-as-char-ah'

Ash-inc-cou'-ah

Natch-tai-tish

Remarks.

Both the Navajos and Pinal Lenos are subdivisions of the great Apache nation, which
may he said, in general terms, to occupy, or rather to roam over, the triangular space included
between the pueblos of New Mexico, the river Colorado, and the Gila ; besides which, they
extend far down into the province of Chihuahua, and almost to the Gulf of Mexico. They
seem to have acted as an obstacle to the southern descent of the Shoshonee tribes, who stretch
away on either side, the Pah-Yutes and Mission Indians on the west, and the Comanches on
the east. As the Coco-Maricopa word for "man" is apache or ee-pache, and as the native term
for "man" is often converted into the proper name of an Indian tribe, Mr. G-allatin concluded
that the Coco-Maricopas belonged to the Apache stock. Now, however, that we have the
means of comparing the languages of the two peoples, this is shown not to be the case. Hence
it appears that the name Apache did not originate with the nation to whom it is applied, but
was adopted by the Spaniards from the Yuma tribes.

The Navajos (or Navahoes), called by the Spanish writers Apaches de Nabajoa, "are a powerful
tribe of Indians residing on the tributaries of the river San Juan, west of the Rio Grande and
east of the Colorado, and between the 35th and 37th parallels of north latitude. They probably
number 8,000 souls." "They are a fierce, intelligent, and warlike tribe of Indians. They pos-
sess more wealth than all the other wild tribes in New Mexico combined; are rich in horses,
mules, asses, goats, and sheep; and they raise, by the cultivation of the soil, a sufficiency of
grain for all purposes of consumption. They are the manufacturers of a superb quality of
blankets that are water-proof, as well as of coarser woollens." (Indian Commissioner's Report
for 1854.) The only vocabularies of their language, heretofore published, are those of Lieut.
Simpson and of Capt. Eaton (in Schoolcraft's History, &c, IV, 216.) That of Lieut. Whipple
was obtained from a Mexican herder, who had been a captive among the Navajos for nine
months, and had learned their language. It agrees with that of Col. Eaton quite as well as
could be expected under the circumstances.

Pinal Lenos — called by Emory Pinon Lanos, and by Bartlett Pinol Indians, Pinols, and
Pinalenos. The latter says they embrace about five hundred souls, and range over an exten-
sive circuit between the Sierra Pinal and the Sierra Blanca; both of which mountains are near

84

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

the upper San Francisco river, about five days' journey north of the Gila. The Apaches
acknowledge them as belonging to the same great tribe as themselves. They are the Indians
who carried off the unfortunate Inez Gonzales, whose story forms so romantic an episode in Mr.
Bartlett's "Personal Narrative."

That the Apaches and their congeners belong to the Athapascan family, which extends across
the northern portion of the continent from Hudson's Bay almost to the Pacific ocean, I have
shown in a paper read before the American Ethnological Society, and published in the Literary
World of April 17, 1852. Mr. Hale had already shown that small fragmentary tribes belong-
ing to this widely extended stock reach down, near the shores of the Pacific, as far south as the
Umkwa river. From the JSoopah vocabulary, since published in Mr. Schoolcraft's work, it is
evident that these people wandered still further in the same direction — at least as far as the

1

2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

Hudson's Bat.
(Dobbs.)

Man .
Head
Hair .
Ear..
Eye..
Nose

Tongue

Tooth .

Neck

Hand..

Leg....

Foot...

Blood..

Knife..

Sun

Fire ...
Water.
Stone ..
Dog....
Fish...

I

One....
Two ...
Three .
Four...

tenet-thee

tenet-thea-cau.

tenet-' tsaw

tene-naw

tene-chee

tene-thoon

tene-hough

tene-cassan ...

tene-law

tene-cha-thee.

tene-crah

dell

pace

saw

o-del-chat

ic-too

a-nel-wosh
cloo-he-za .

she

zodeneah . .
chellatelle.

elthoi

tenetthee . .

Chepewtan.
(Mackenzie.)

dinnie.
edthie .

thiegah ,

nack-hay

edthu.
goo....

law

edthen . . .

cub

dell

bess

sah

counn ....

toue ,

thaih

sliengh..
slooeeh . .

see

slachy...
naghur..
tagh-y ..
dengk-y

Dog-Rib.
(Richardson.)

tchel-a-qui

tzat-the

setz-the-rgha .
setz-r-rgha...,

tzen-nhae

tze-etze ,

tze-tthou

tze-o-who (?)
tze-e-e-cottle .

ssa-la

tze-thunna . . .
tze-ka

pa-as
ssa . . .
kkon
two ..

cle ....
clou-a

en-clai ..
nak-ka..
tta-rgha
tting

Tacully.
(Harmon,)

ten-nee .
pit-sa...

ote-zega

o-cho

o-now

pa-nin-chis.

tsoo-la

oh-goo

o-la

o-ca-chin.

o-ca

sko

sa

koue

too

tsay

cling, clee-chay (bitch)
cloo-lay

se.

clot-tay
nong-ki

toy

ting-kay

° The manuscript of the present paper on Lieutenant Whipple's vocabularies was delivered to Mr. Whipple in January of
this year (1856); and now, in the month of May, as it is going through the press, I have received a copy of Dr. Buschmann's
learned aud highly interesting treatise on the Athapascan family of languages, (Der Athapaskischc Spiachstamm dargestellt
von Joh. Carl Ed. Buschmann,) printed in Berlin in the present year.. Dr. Buschmann mentions repeatedly (pp. 154, 254)
that the discovery of the Athapascan relationship of the Apache nation is due to me ; but he claims at the same time, as his
own discovery, the fact that a similar relationship exists between the Athapascans proper and the Navajos. This claim,
however, cannot be admitted ; because in the above-mentioned paper, published in the Literary World, I treat both of tho
Apaches and of " their congeners the Navahoes." The affinity of the Apaches and Navajos had been repeatedly asserted by
Spanish and American writers. I need quote only the excellent authority of Gregg. He says : " The principal wild tribes
which inhabit or extend their incursions or peregrinations upon the territory of New Mexico are the Xttvajoes, the Ajpaehes,

VOCABULAEIES OP NOKTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

85

Trinity river, on which a tribe of thern is now found, extending to its junction with the Kla-
math. My view of the affiliation of the Apache and Athapascan tribes has been adopted by
Mr. Schoolcraft, in the recently published fifth volume of his History, &c, of the Indian Tribes,
(p. 173 note, and pp. 202, 203,) though apparently with some hesitation.* To establish the
fact of the radical connexion of their languages beyond reasonable doubt, I have constructed
the following comparative table of words selected from vocabularies already published, except-
ing that of the Apaches of the Copper Mines, for which we are indebted to the liberality of the
Hon. John E. Bartlett. It may be well to remind the reader, that in comparing the names of
the parts of the body, the pronoun or other word attached to the name must be rejected:
thus, in the Hudson's Bay vocabulary the expression is man's head, man's hair, etc. ; in the
Dog-Kib, my head, etc.

TJmkwa.
{Hale.)

HOOPAH.

(Schoolcraft.)

Navajo.

Apache.

(Schoolcraft.)

(Bartlett.)

ten-nai'

n'de

hut-zee

shi-tzi

si-ra'

she-cha'

hun-nah'

kow-da'

sia-chi

hut-tso'

she-za'-re

hur-go'

she-go'

she-cos'

she-n'la'

hut-jast'

she-cha'-di

hur-ka'i

she-ke'

tilh

filch

pes

cho-ko-no-i'

chi-go-na-kai

co?i

tonh

t'ho-cho?i

tzi

klee-chah'-ee

klin-clia-ne

hloh

chlui

sheenh

shi

tlah'-ee

ta-shte'

nah-kee'

na-ki

tanh

ta'i

t'igh

1

2
3
4
5
6
1
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

tilsun, tune

sugha, si

zugha, sala.

tshighe

naghe

mintshesh, shish...

lasom, santkhlo

uo, cughu

kwash, shusoatkhl

shlaa, shila,

tsune, stse

shkhe

shtule

clestay

sha

kho»

tkho, to ,

seh, se

tkhli, tkhliwe

shi

aitkhla ..
nakhuk .

tak

tuntshik.

quais-tai'

ok-heh

tse-wok

hot-che-weh

hun-nah

hun-tchu

sast-ha

how-wa

ho-se-watl

hol-lah

hot-sinne ,

hom-mit-laht-hut-sinne .

me-kus-tem-meh ,

hwah

hoh

tah-nahn

schlunh

kloke

wheh

kleh-wunna

nah-nih

hah-kin

in-kin

the Yutas, the Caigicas or Kiawas, and the Comanches. Of the latter I will speak in another place. The two Just arc from one
and the same original stock, there being, even at the present day, no very important difference in their language." (Commerce of the Prairies,
I, 285.) The publication of Lieutenant Simpson's vocabularies simply confirmed this statement ; accordingly, there is no
discovery in the matter. If the Apaches are Athapascans, and the Navajos are a part of the Apache nation, it follows of
course that the Navajos are Athapascans too. I may add, that the name Ticorillax, as written throughout by Buschmann,
has its origin in a misprint in Simpson's report. It should be Jicarillas, as given by Gregg, in connexion with the passage
above quoted, and many other authorities. In conclusion, be it observed, that the slight errors here pointed out are not
to be considered as detracting in any sensible degree from the great merit of Dr. Buschmann's work. The eminent ability
and the faithful diligence displayed in it, which can be duly appreciated only by those who have gone through similar
laborious and perplexing investigations, will make it a standard authority on the subject of which it treats.— W. W. T.

86

VOCABULARIES

OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
K E EES .

XIII. Kiwomi.

God

Wicked spirit.

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child . .

Father

Mother

Hushand

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Head

air

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Beard

Neck

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Feet

Toes

Bone

Heart

Blood

Town, village.

Chief

Warrior

Friend

surch-a-nuch
shu'-wa-chup . . .
hahch'-tse, te'-wa

co -l-yo-i
i'-o-wtis .
ma'-sitch
u'-wak...

u'-mo

yah'-yah

cah'-nus-chi

cah'-nu-ye

k'sah'-e-wush-i.

cu'-i-yah

thu'-mi

mem'-me

ha'-no

nash'-ke

ha'-dre

scu'-o-wah

si'-up
yu'-o-pi

ca -a-na

wi'-e-shin

stchi'-i-ca

wa'-chin

hahtch'-i-ni
mush'-es-oi
sca'-o-witz
sca'-o-yu-mi

mar-quin ....
che'-o-wutz
ha'-o-wutz-in
ca'-o-wutz-i. . .
sco-o-mutch

se'-e-ma

has'-ten

se'-e-mutz
hai'-skin
oui'-nas-ka . . .

mat'-zi

ha'-stitz

hu'-i-chin

si'-et-chu-ia . .

sow'-o-kin

XIII. Kiwomi.

shu'-watz
hatch'-the .
cu'-yau-wi .

ha'-tre

sku'-o-wa .

sha'-a-na.
chi'-a-ca..

nash'-kai-ni.

si'-e-ni.

XIV. COCHITEMI.

hach'-the . .
co'-you-i . . .
shru'-i-a-ti
ma'-sitch. ..

u'-ak

ta-latch ....

yai'-yah

ca'-tri-si

XV. Acoma.

hah'-trat-se

cu'-hu

i'-at-tr

ma'-a-sit-tr

sai'-i-at-tr

nai' -ish-ti'-a

sa-mier'-ti

hant'-no
nush-kai'-i-ne
hah-trat'-ni
ho-wa'-win-ni

ho'-o-na'-i-ne
oui'-i-su'-i-ne
oui-i-ca-ni
wa-itch-hunt-ni

ha-match-ti-i-ni

sm-ni

ha'-ma-ni
ha-ash-ti-e-ni

oui'-nosh-ka
maat-si
sa-ash-ti-ist
ta-puft

cow-wats-ou-hats-i'-
ta

sow-kin'-i

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
KERB S. — Continued.

87

XIII. Kiwomi.

House, lint

Kettle

Arrow

Bow

Axe, hatchet

Knife

Indian shoes....

Bread

Pipe, calumet...

Tobacco

Sky, heaven

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Lightning

Thunder

Bain ,

Snow

Hail

Fire

Water

Ice ,

Earth, land

Sea

Biver

Lake

Valley (canon) . .

Hill

Mountain

Island

Stone, rock

Iron

Maize

Tree

Wood ,

ai'-it-chin

cu'-mas-a-wa

es'-to-wa

wes'-chick

ok'-po-wen

kes'-ka

ha'-shup

pa

ach-can ,

ha'-o-mi

hu'-wuc-ca

o'-sutz

ta'-o-watz

shi'-a-chutz

sai'-ech

ma'-su

no'-i-ya

cahps

na'-cai-ya

cha'-puc-ca

ti'-etz

ca'-sha-te

tu'-o-na

coke

cu'-you-tow-i

put'-so-isk-i

cow'-o-mutz

he'-i-nut-i

ha'-o-wi

ha'-o-man-i

ha'-i-kan-i

'tsetz

ha'-ha-mi

ya';'i

'tsist'-tsu-o-wi

chi'-na

cu'-o-wat-si

chi'-nai-ya

cu'-yo-cats

co'-te

cots'-anch

ya-o-ni

thi'-mus-chuch

ya'-o-ca

man-za'-na
hah'-ni

XIII. Kiwomi.

ha'-shum

cha-quck'
ha'-mi

o'-shutz
tah'-o-watz
shi'-chut-i .

ya'-chi

XIV. Cochitemi.

o'-shutz

ta'-ho-watz

shi'-ki-ut

XV. Acoma.

cat'-tu-i-ta

88

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
KEBES.— Continued.

XIII. KlWOMI.

Leaf

Grass —

Pine

Poplar

Flesh, meat....

Beaver

Deer

Bison, buffalo.

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Squirrel

Babbit, hare . .

Snake

Battle-snake . .
Bird

Egg

Goose

Duck

Pigeon

Partridge

Turkey

Fish

White

Black

Bed

Blue

Yellow

Green

Great, big

Small, little...

Strong

Old

Young

Good

Bad

Handsome

Ugly

Alive, life

Dead, death...

Cold

Warm, hot....

I

Thou

He

ma'-sa-ni

a'-shen

hah'-ni

hi'-e-tran

i'-she-ni

cu'-o-ho

ki-ah'-ni

mu'-shatch

cu'-hai

ca-chan

ti

quish'-shotz-un
bi-a-lin
le'-ich
sku'-i-ska

shru'-o-wi

si'-o-lo

tschi'-o-la

cai'-po

ti'-e-wit-e-wik
huk

cahs'-cark

'tsi-na

cabsh

ca'-sha

mu'-na-ken

cu'-can

quisk

cu'-chin

cu'-shat-im

mat'-sitch

lus'-kitch

si'-skutz

nai'-stchu-a

lu'-ca-shat

la'-o-wa

cu'-wa-sa

cin'-mo-ta-wa

cha'-lis-ka

si'-yan

tschu'-o-mo

i'-o-ma

catch'-a

hi'-no

hish

weh'

XIII. Kiwomi.

ah'-shi

mu'-shuck

XIV. COCHITEMI.

shru'-wi

XV. Acoma.

VOCABULARIES OF NORTII AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
KERES . — Continued.

89

We

You

They

This

That

All

Many, much

Who

Near

To-day

Yesterday
To-morrow ..,

Yes

No

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eat

Drink

Kun

Dance

Go

Sing

Sleep

Speak

See

Love

Kill

Walk

Smoke

Apaches

Kai-o-was

Mexicans

XIII. Kiwomi.

hi'-no
kech-e'-o
e'-ot-za
weh'

u''-weh'-o

se'-how-o'-pa

ep'-ma

how'-o

lu'-o-ma

hi'-wo-saitch

so

nah'-cai-a

hah

tsah

isk'-a

■o-mi

'tsu'-

'tscham

gi-a'-na

ta'-hm

stchis

mai'-cha-na

co'-con-shi ,

mai'-ec-o ,

'tcahtz

tshu'-peh

us'-ke-a

atz-o-muk

a'-chintz-tscha

hi'-na

su'-ut-a

yi'-a-pat-a-si

eh'-nutz-a-si

si'-u-kutch-i

te'-ni-si

sa'-ot

nu'-o-wa-pot-sen .

XIII. Kiwomi.

Ca'-ste-la (Span.)

isk

'tu'-o-mi

tschab'-i

ki-a'-na

ta'-o-ma

chisth

mai'-cha-na.
co'-cum-shi. .

inai'-e-co

cahtz

chu'-pe

si'-paak
saht'-sa

chas'-ka

Chah'-shm

Cai'-guas

XIV. COCHITEMI.

XV. Acojia.

ish'-ka

ku'-o-mi

cha'-mi

ki'-a-na

ta'-ma

chi'-sa

mai'-ca-na

co'-co-mi-shia

mai'-e-co

'tkatz

Cash'-tiil-da (Sp.)

Kbmarks.

Kiwomi and Cocliitemi. — In reply to questions respecting the sources whence the I hree firel
vocabularies were procured, Mr. Whipple says, speaking of them in the order in which they
are printed :

12 i

90

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

"Upon the Canadian river, while accompanied by a trading party of Mexicans from San
Juan de los Caballeros, we met Indians from the pueblo of Santo Domingo. The Mexicans
stated that they were known as Teguas; but they called themselves Ki'-o-a-me, or Ki'-wo-mi.
One vocabulary of their language, obtained from the chief, is nearly complete. The second,
communicated by another individual of that party, may be useful for comparison, giving con-
fidence to those corresponding words which, in both, express similar sounds."

"At Eocky Dell creek another party of Indian traders made their appearance. They in-
formed us that the Indian name of their tribe was Co-cM-te-wii' , though by Spaniards called
Qui'-me; and that their homes were in New Mexico, south of the Kiwomi — at Zandia or Isleta,
perhaps. The vocabulary of their language was not completed, because it seemed to be nearly
identical with that of the Kiwomi."

The general conclusion to be drawn from this is, that we have here vocabularies of the lan-
guage spoken in Santo Domingo and the neighboring pueblos ; and this conclusion is supported
by a comparison of them with Simpson's brief specimen of the language, the only one here-
tofore published, with which it agrees tolerably well.

One or two particulars, however, in the statement are difficult to account for. It is said that
the tribe are called by the Mexicans Teguas. Now, the ancient and proper name of the tribe
to which the people of Santo Domingo and the neighboring pueblos belong, as we are informed
by Pike and Gregg, is Keres, or in the Spanish orthography Queres; whereas the Tegua tribe
are found further to the north, in the pueblos of San Juan, Santa Clara, Nambe, Pojuaque,
&c, and speak a different language. Again, the third vocabulary is that of people who called
themselves Cochitemi' . This we would naturally suppose to mean people of the pueblo of Cochi/i' ,
who are known to belong to the Keres tribe ; but they represented themselves as living to the
south of the Kiwomi, while Cochiti is the most northerly pueblo of the Keres. These difficul-
ties could probably be easily resolved by persons residing in the country.

It will be observed that in these three vocabularies the accent, or stress of the voice, is almost
uniformly on the first syllable of the word.

Acoma. — The people of this pueblo also belong to the tribe of Keres. The vocabulary before
us is a brief one, containing but twenty-eight words. Mr. Whipple says, speaking of these
Indians: "We tried to write a vocabulary of their language; but the words given were so
long, and so difficult to pronounce, that we gave up the task." This, though it differs from
the three preceding ones more than they do from each other, evidently represents the same
language, and apparently in an older and purer form, its words being longer and present-
ing a more uniform character than those of the other vocabularies, which appear to have
been abbreviated and corrupted from them. May not this be owing to the Acucans' being more
separated by their almost inaccessible position from the Mexicans? Indeed Lieutenant Abert
says: "These people cannot have associated much with the Mexicans, for they scarce know a
word of the language." It is desirable that we should have a complete vocabulary of this
dialect.

Our interest in the people of Acoma and their language is heightened by the fact that their
pueblo is one of the few places in New Mexico visited by the first explorers of the country
under Coronado, in the middle of the sixteenth century, which it is now possible to identify.
It had been supposed that the present pueblo of Acoma, remarkable for its lofty position and
difficulty of access, which proved its safeguards on that occasion, was the Acuco of the invaders.
This supposition is now fully confirmed by the testimony of Colonel J. H. Eaton, who says:
"In a conversation with a very intelligent Zuni Indian, I learned that the pueblo of Acoma is
called, in the Zuni tongue, Hali-Tcoo-kee-ah (Acuco) ; and this name was given to me without
any previous question which could serve to give him an idea of this old Spanish name."
(Schooler., Hist. Cond., &c.,IV, 220.)

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

ZUNI.

91

XVI ZuNi.

XVI. Zuixi.

God

Wicked spirit.

Man

Woman

Boy

Girl

Infant, child . .

Father

Mother

Husband

Wife

Son

Daughter

Brother

Sister

An Indian

Head

Hair

Face

Forehead

Ear

Eye

Nose

Mouth

Tongue

Tooth

Chin

Beard

Neck

Breast

Arm

Hand

Fingers

Nails

Body

Belly

Leg

Foot

Toes

Bone ,

Heart

Blood

Town, village.
Chief.

o'-na-wil-li *

ish'-u-we

ot'-si

o'-kia

sa'-ba-ki

e'-lesh-to-ki

ckat'-se-ki

ta'-chu

si'-ta

o'-ye-me-shi

o'-ye-me-shi-li

cha'-li

hom-kat'-ski
su'-e
i'-ka-na
ho'-i-te
o'-sho-quin
tai'-a-oue
no'-po-nim
ha'-quin
la'-shok-tin
tu'-na-oue
no'-e-lin-de
a'-wa-tin
ho'-nin-ne
oh'-now-e-we
tle'-we-chin
si'-po-ni-we
ki'-sin-de
po'-ha-tan-de
a'-si-o-we, chu'-ti-o-we
a'-si-kat-so-wa, ash-ti-shok-
ta

kets'-pil-to

shaun'-chi-o-we

te'-lon-de

tsu'-o-le

o'-yin

oue'-qui-o-we

tok'-no-o-we

sam'-me

i'-ke-o-nun-ne

a-'te

thlu'-a-lun
an'-i-sa-to-ni

War captain....

Warrior

Friend

House, hut

Kettle

Arrow

Bow ,

Axe, hatchet . . -
Hacha Azteca. . ,

Knife

Canoe, boat....
Indian shoes...

Bread

Pipe, calumet ....

Tobacco

Sky, heaven . . .

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Light

Night ....
Darkness .
Morning. ,
Evening . ,
Spring ...
Summer..
Autumn .
Winter...
Wind

Lightning.
Thunder...

Rain

Snow

Hail

Fire

Water

Ice

Earth, land.

Sea

River

Lake

Valley ....

Hill

Mountain.

i'-thluck-ni-cha-mo'-si

son'-ta-lo-qui

cu'-a-yi

kia'-quim-ni

wa'-kish-i

shaw'-o-li

pi'-tlan-di

ki-e-li

o'-la-ki-e-li

a'-chi-en-di

thle'-lo-ni

mo'-quou-o-wi

mu'-lon-di

te'-pok-li-nen

he'-to-co-ni

ja'-la-oue

ja'-tok-ia (ya'-tok-ya)

ja'-cku-ne

moi'-a-chu-we

ja'-toi-e

te'-co-han-na

teth'-lin-ai-e

te'-quin-na

te'-wa-ni

zu'-na-cha

o'-lok-i'-yer

te'-cath-li

taw'-wa-nai-e

tel'-se-ti', tet-se-na'

thlit'-te-quai-n ai'-a

ul'-tok-ai

pi'-nai-ia

thlit'-to-ia

ou'-pi-nai-oe

mo'-pi-nai-oe

ma'-qui (ma'-ki)

ki'-a-we

'tchath-le

so'-wi

ki-a'-tuth-u'-lup-nai-e
ki-a'-wa-nai-e
ki-a'-tu-lin-ni
pe'-wo

te'-po-keth-la'-oc
ja'-la-oe

92

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

ZUN I. —Continued.

Island

Stone, rock ....

Salt

Copper

Iron

Maize

Tree

Wood

Leaf

Grass

Pine

Flesh, meat...

Beaver

Deer

Bison, buffalo.

Bear

Wolf

Dog

Fox

Squirrel

Rabbit, bare

Snake

Rattlesnake . . .
Bird

XVI. Zuxi.

ca-bul'-la-o-pi

a'- we

ma'-we

te'-se-li-li

thle'-cai-a-we

mi'-we

ta'-ne-ai-we

tble'-lo-e-we

ha' -we

pe'-we

a'-she-ki

shi'-le

pi' -ha

shaw'-hi-ta

tush-ke'-o-wun-na

ain'-she

yu'-na-wi-co

wats'-ta

ma'-wi

ye'-c-yi

ok'-shi-co-ni

mit'-cath-li

ehit'-to-la

wots'-a-na-o-we

Feather i la' -we

Egg

Duck

Turkey

Fish

Shell ! shaw'-ton-ni

White co'-han-na

Black quin'-na

to'-co-co-nio-we
e'-yer
to'-na

'tshash'-i-ta

Red

Blue

Fellow ,

Green

Great, big ...
Small, little

Strong

Old

Young

Good

Bad

Handsome
Ugly.......

Alive, life.

s-hi'-lo-wa

'thlit'-on-na

thlut'-sin-na

ash'-e-na

thlan'-na

'tsan'-na

'tsum'-mi

'tlash'-shi

chi'-mo-na

cok'-shi

quok'-cok-sha-ma
soh'-ya

hoh'-i-sam'-mo
hoh'-i

XVI. Zutii.

Dead, death

Cold

Warm, hot. .
I

Thou

He

We

Ye

They

This

That

All

Many, much.

Who

Near

To-day

Yesterday
To-morrow...

Yes

No

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight.

Nine

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen

Fourteen

Fifteen

Sixteen

Seventeen

Eighteen

Nineteen

Twenty

Twenty-one.

Thirty

Forty

Fifty

Sixty

hap'-pa

tet'-se

te'-su

hoh'-o

toh'-o

luk'-ye

hoh'-no

luk'-no

lak-ti'-no-na

luk'-yer

uk-si'

tem'-thla

te'-u-cha

chu'-a-pi

lo'-te

la'-ki

te'-shu-quoi

ich'-e-toi-thli

ia

ho-lo'

to'-pa

qui'-li

hah'-i

a'-wi-te

ap'-te

to'-pa-lik-ya

qui'-de-lik-ya

hai'-e-lik-ya

ten'-e-lik-ya

as'-tem-thla

to'-pa-yath-to

qui'-li-yath-to

hah'-i-yath-to

a'-wi-ten-yath-tu

ap-tcn-yath-to

to-pa-lik-yath-to

qui-li-lik-yath-to

hai-e-lik-yath-to

ten-e-lik-yath-to

qui-lik-yin-ath-tem-thla

qui-li k-y in-ath-tem-thla-

to'-pa-yath-to
hai-yik-in-ath-tem-thla
a-wi-kin-ath-tein-thla
ap'-te-nik-in-ath-tem-thla
to-pa-lik-in-ath-tem-thla

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
ZUNI.— Continued.

93

Hundred

Thousand

Eat

Drink

Eun

Dance

Go

Come

Sit

Sing

Sleep

Speak

See

Love

Kill

Walk ,

One who has killed an enemy (matador)

I wish to know

I have eaten enough

Zufii

Zuhi chief (name of)

XVI. Zuni.

asi-ath-tem-thla

asi-ath-tem-thla-ath-tem-thla

i'-to, i-to'

tu-tu

ye'-la-ha'

o'-ti-e-we

so-a'-ne

kath'-li-ma-ni

i'-mu

te'-na-u

a'-la

pe'-ye

u-na'

an'-te-sho-ma'
ai'-i-na

ya'-ta-shlot-ya

pith-la-shi-wa-ni

ai'-yi-ya-no-ke-nuh'

i'-ton-a-we

Shi'-oui

L ai'-ai-ai-et-za-lu'

Ebmarks.

A few miles from the present pueblo of Zuni are situated on a mesa, or elevated table-land,
the ruins of the old town which Mr. Squier has demonstrated to be the Cibola that figures so
largely in the account of the first explorers of New Mexico under Coronado. For in the narra-
tive of Espejo's visit to that country about forty years afterwards, as given by Hakluyt, it is
said, "Twenty-four leagues from hence, towards the west, they came to a certain province called
by the inhabitants themselves Zuny, and by the Spaniards Cibola."

The only Zuni vocabularies heretofore published are one in the report of Lieut. Simpson,
and another, furnished by Capt. Eaton, in Schoolcraft's fourth volume. That of Mr. Whipple,
which was obtained by himself from a native of the tribe, agrees very well with both the pre-
ceding. Here, too, it will be observed that the accent is, almost without exception, on the first
syllable of each word. It has been remarked by the judicious Gregg that there are but three
or four different languages spoken among the Pueblo Indians, and that these may be distantly
allied to each other. A comparison of the Zuni vocabulary with those of the Keres would not
lead us to infer any radical affinity whatever between the languages. It is to be hoped that,
of the intelligent men now permanently settled in New Mexico, and especially the missiona-
ries stationed among these interesting peoples, some may be willing to devote themselves to a
study of the grammatical structure of their languages, so that we may ascertain the exact
nature of the relationship in which they stand to each other.

94

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
PIMA.

Man

Woman

Old man.

Boy

Girl

Wife

Hair

Eye

House

Arrow

Head-band

Spur

Shoes

Beads

Blanket

Belt

Hat

Tobacco

Mezcal

Music

Sun

Moon

Water

River

Mountain

Stone, rock

Sand

Tree

Leaf

Corn

Teazel

Cereus giganteus. .
Syrup of the cereus
Coyote

XVII. Pima.

or'-ter, chee-ort'

oo-oove'

ku'-lee

ah'-lay

churche'-o

oo-if

mok

oupe'-we

kuck-yu-lak-ckook'

n'oo'-oo

saw-a-key-wak

is'-pul

sak'-pat

pai'-ou-ker

ix

soe-ker-up'-and-kay-ker-pak'

soo-niak-der'

vib

ak'-o-ly

cooh

tasck

mas'-sar

soo'-e-ty

see'-o-pit

toe'-ark

hote'-ay

terre-wkit'

ak'-ou-pak

kah'-hak-ketz, ser'-quy

ou'-in, oo-oon

wy'-wy

kar'-say

secs'-tor

pa'-ku

Mountain goat .

Horse

Crow, raven

Scorpions

Ant

Fish

Good

Bad

None

To-morrow

One

Two

Three

Four

Five

Six

Seven

Eight

Nine

Ten

Eleven

Twelve

Thirteen

Twenty

Thirty

Forty

Fifty

Sixty

Hundred

How do you do ?

Apacke ._

Gila river

Casa Blanca

XVII. Pima.

chu'-son

cah'-vay-yo (Sp. caballo)

hak'-win

cokes

quar'-tic

vak'-top

skoock'r

moo'-mo-co

mine

say-ak'-ly

ker-mah

coke

vaique

keek

her'-tus

chou'-ote

wee'-o-ker

kce'-kick

hoo'-mook

wis'-to-mah

vas-her'-mah

vas-o-coke

vas-o-vaique

co-co-wis-to-mah

wee-co-wis-to-mah

kee-co-wis-to-mah

her-tus-co-wis-to-mah

chou-ote-co-wis-to-mah

way-co-wis-to-mah

see'-co

Orp

Ack'-o-mah

Huch-oo-la-chook-vacke'

Remarks.

Pimas (by some corrupted into Pimos). — Humboldt says the northernmost part of the inten-
dancy of Sonora bears the name of Pimeria, from a numerous tribe of Indians called Pimas, who
inhabit it.

The first of our people who visited and described the Pimas of the Gila, the only ones with
whom we are as yet acquainted, were Colonel Emory and Captain A. R. Johnston, who accom-
panied the invading army of General Kearny in 1846. The fullest and most satisfactory account
of them is that given by Hon. John R. Bartlett, in the second volume of his " Personal Narra-
tive." They and the Coco-Maricopas live in a very friendly manner in two neighboring villages
on the south side of the Grila, about midway of its course. Mr. Bartlett estimates the popula-
tion of the two villages of these peaceful and industrious communities at about 2,000 souls, of
whom two-thirds are Pimas.

Of the Pima language a few words and some account of its grammatical structure are given
in the Mithridates from Father Pfefferkorn's work on Sonora. A brief vocabulary by Dr. Coul-
ter is published in the eleventh volume of the Royal Geographical Society's Journal; and a
much fuller one, drawn up by Dr. C. C. Parry, in the third volume of Schoolcraft's History,
&c, of the Indian Tribes. The short vocabulary obtained by Lieutenant Whipple agrees
well with those of his predecessors, as far as they coincide in the choice of words.

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
YUMA.

95

XVIII. CUCHAK.

coo-coo-rnak-at

mas-tam-kove

e'-patck, e-pah

seen-yack

her-mai*

meser-hai*

kail-pit

kon-o-waia

lotk-mo-cul

n' taie*

matio-kabee'-e'3

na-vere

o-skurcke, o-sos"

ho-maie5""-_

m'ckaie®

socke*
am-yiicks*

m l-e-paie*

e'-corrt-suck-e-rowo, oom
whelthe'"'

o-con-o,<:s e-etcke

e-dotcke, ee-yir»

ee-yu-cal6ques ..

smytk'l, e-sjm-ile

e-dotcke-e"e, ee-yu-sune-ya-o*

e-kotcke, ee-koo

ee-yu-qua-6fes

e-pulcke, ee-pailcke

are-doche

a-tuc-saho, ee-a-tuc-sucke

ya-bo-mek .

n'yetk'l

ee-wee

ee-setk'I, e-see'l

ee-salcke. .

ee-salcke serap

ee-salcke calla-kotcke

ee-matche, ta-wa-coam9

a-tan3

mee-sitk'l .

e-metch-slip-a-slap-yah

e-rnetch serap, e-mee-cas-sao.

ee-elea.

a-whut9

he-paith-lao* _

XIX. Coco-Maricopa.

ee-packe

sin-ckay-alx-kutck

ko -mar eke

mes-a-kaitz

aye-dotck

yay-kay-oocke .
ee-zatck

yay-bo-mitz

XX. Mojave.

mat-e-vil'

i-pak'

sin-yax'

hu'-mar

mes-a-kaitz'
kur-quil'-ya

ni-qui-oclie'.
him-taiche' -

n'ya-betch'
ni-cn-ratck'
ko-maicke'
ko-marcke'

n'yitk'l
ca'-wa-wa

l-mi

i-kal-i-me'. .
yah-ma-pul'
e-smailk'

dotz

ku

'-pail-ya
i-do'

ya-bu'-mek
ku-nak'

i-sail'

i-sail-que-se-rap'
i-sail-que-se-rap'
sa-cul-ya-ko'
i-wak'

i-to'
mi-sil .

XXI. DiegeXo.

ay-c6otcket

seen

el-mam

nile
tile

estar

ka-mat'I

a-yon (a-wuc, pi.)

koo

ah

i-mi-lap-e-lap

mi-que-se-rap-a
wi-at, i-\va'
ni-a-wlmt'
n'yo-ha-ble-yimp'

cu-wis

sitk'l

a-sac'l

hamate

e-with'l
toon

ha-meel-yay

9G

VOCABULARIES OP NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

YUMA. — Continued.

XVIII. Cuciian.

XIX. Coco-Mabicopa.

XX. Mojave.

XXI. DlEGENO.

Chief

Warrior

Friend

House -

Hut

Kettle

Arrow

Do. of reed

Do. of wood

Bow

Gun

Flute

Axe, hatchet

Knife -

Scissors —

Canoe, hoat

Indian shoes

Hat

Beads.

Do. of pierced
shells

Blanket-.

Breech-cloth

Belt, sash

co-hotc* .
con-niee*

n'yet'l* -

n'ye-valyay, een-ou-wa<!
cen-ou-muta

n'yee-pah

n'yee-pah- tah
n'yee-pah-e'-sah-be
o-tees-a, ar-tini5* . .

a-ta-carte

n'e-nia-ro"

chim-in-yeich

e-cal-hor**

n'hum-au-6che.

a-pee-arpec"

su-cool -.

pook

way-mah-coutche

Do. different col-
ors

Trowscrs

Cloth

Red cloth

Paper

Bread

Flour

Pipe

Cigar

Tobacco

A light

Brandy

Whiskey

Money

mamirke

nee-ca-chain

a-6obe

a-ah-oche

quo-hote'

at-chi-ber-ce-but

n'yithl

ah'-ba

ha-rup

Sky, heaven.

Sun

Moon

Star

Day

Noon - -

am-mai

n'yatch

huth'l-ya, hull-yar

klup-wa-taie, hutchar.

no-ma-sup

pue-n'a-pin

ou-teese.

cah-vo-cah-varpk

an-hum-en-yeous .

coo-poos

hut-qua-soose

mu'-hulk
a-kim

l-pa
a'-ti-is

toc-yat'
ah'-quc

lium'-n'yo-wa

hut-cli6che

soe-ker-up-and-kay-

her-pah
soe-her-up-and-kay-

her-whiltz
away-tfe-er-kab-itz
ham-arlk
hah-whetz

niu-dil'

en-pay-mah-barrache

oh-oiibe

n'yatz

hull-ash*

hurnmah-sish .

mail'-ho

a-u'-ba

a-mai'-ya

n'yatz

hull-ya'

ha'-mu-se

cu-tin-ya'-ma

a-wah

ape"e-Sl

tayhe'eth, cuchao

me-yert'l

quarquuc

coo-quit' 1-hue, iris-co-
quit' 1-hue

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
YUMA. — Continued.

97

XVIII. Cuciian.

XIX. Coco-Maiucopa.

XX. Mojave.

XXI. Diegeno.

Light

Night

Midnight

Darkness

Morning

Evening

Spring

Summer

Autumn

Winter

Wind

Lightning

Thunder

Rain.-

Snow

Hail

Fire

Water

Spring (of water)

Ice -.

Earth, land

Sea

River

Rivulet

Lake

Valley

Hill --

Mountain

Island

Road

Stone, rock

Salt

Iron

Maize, com

Beans

White beans

Beans (small, with

black spots)
Mezquit long bean
Do. screw bean .

Beans cooked

Melon

Musk-melon

Water-melon

Tree

Wood

Leaf

met- n' yum

n'ye-as-cup

n'yat-a-so-arpe

n'yat-col-see

esta— no-sup

n'yat-an-n'aee ..
oo-cher

o-mo-caahe-pue'

ha-ti-61

n'ya-pin

met-har

n'ya-col-see

met-har-co-n6 ..

muli-hee"

ha-lup

n'awo-cope'

a-a-wo

a-ha

sho-kine

o-mut

a-ha-t'hlow-o

ha- with' 1, ha-weel.

ha-sha-cut
ha-mut-ma-tarre'
wee-qua-taie, ha-bee'.

ah-ooch.

ha-mut-ma-tarre-quel-marm

o-wee
e-sith'l
n'yer-ma-ro
ter-ditch

marique (mareek)
ah-ho-mah, marrico-tah

ee-yah (ee-yahts, plur.)
e-eesse

chd-rngt-a-quis
che'-met-on-ya, che'-m t-toh

e-eesh

e-ee, e-eetch

ee-eetch-a-berr-beerrch

13 i

on-Bitz.

ter-ditz

que-d6u-iz

en'-yaik
nya'-ha-bit

tin'-yamk
tin-ya'-ma
nyat-in-ai'-am

mut'-ha

o'-ra-ba

wo'-ca-ta

cu'-ba-wa

o'-ha-cha

a'-wa

ah'-ha

hutch-i-pa'

a'-mar-tar

ha-wil
he-row-ok

ha-bi'
itz-i'-bi-la

on-ye'

an-yo'-rum
ter'-di-cha
se-van'

marfque-cu-ta'

c-mctsk'
e-i'

hoon

aha

98

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

YUMA.— Continued.

XVIII. CUCHAN.

XIX. Coco-Maricopa.

XX. Mojave.

XXI. DlEGENO.

Fruit

Grass

Grass-seed

Cereus giganteus -

Flesh, meat

Horso

Mule

Wolf

Dog

Mountain buck . .

Snake

Bird

Feather

Eagle

Eagle's feather

Raven -

Fish

White

Black

Red

Blue

Yellow

Green

Great

Very great

Small, little

Old

Good -

Very good

Bad * . . .

Very bad

Handsome

Ugly

Generous

Stingy

Alive, life.-

Dead, death

Cold

Warm, hot .

I

Thou

He

All

Many, much

Little

None

Nothing

Near

ae-o-taie

ta-s6u-o.
huts

hoo-we'e.

a-her-mah
sah-with'l
es-patch
6or-meh

a-ched

ham-arlk -

quim-ele, n'ye'elk

a-cha-whut

ha-woo-surche

a-quesque

at-so-woo-surche

o-teieque ....

e-pailque-n' ya-mook
o-noc-oque

a-hote-kah, a-hotk
a-hottik-a-han-ac

ha-loolk

ha-liilk-a-han-ac
e-hanc, e-han-ac - „
n'-ya-a-nuc

mez-queeno (Span.).

huts-ule . .
ep-eelk _.

n'yat

mantz

ha-buitzk

e-pailque.

hut-chitz .
ah-ah-chy

ah-quactus

mel-ah-co-lish.

ah-bee-bubber

cache-set
chee"-ish..
vach

be-tachy

oh-n6c-oque

a-hot'k
poo-fk-

es-coo-ailk
mez-que'e-no (Span.)

hut-chunk.

in-yatz.
mantz .

5-pailque .
cobarrk

ich-i'-wi-la

i'-tho-ik

at-ol-weh'
hatch-ot-soc'

ah-beh'

e-chi'

ha-quik'

a-que'-ra

che'-whut-a

e-chur'-wa-su-cha

il-i'-ma-sa-ba

ach-ha'-ga

hu'-mik

a-to'-we-nok
cu-rak'

ah'-hotk

a-laik'

at-so-cani'-puk
hut-churk'

ha-bin-n' ya-baik'
ter-pou'-ik
hut-churk'
he-pil'-ka
i-ma'-ta, n'yatz .
in-i-cak, mantz

pe'-pa.

qui-buc
a'-taike
o-noc'-oc

ach-a-ma-cha

mo-quiic, hut
ah-hiit, moolt

han, hanna

n'yat
poo

omuc'l, omah-o

hi-pau'-ac

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.
YUMA. — Continued.

99

XVIII. CUCHAN.

Far

Here

To-day

Yesterday . .
To-morrow .

Shortly

Yes

No

One

Two

Three

Four

Fire

Six

Seven

Eight .

Nine

Ten

Eat

Drink

Run

Dance .

Sit

Stand .

Go

Come.

Sing

Sleep

Be sleepy.

Speak

See

Love

Desire

Kill

Wash

Walk

Wait

Stay

Smoke

Trade

Shoot

Be drunk .
Apache ...

Yuma

Mexican .

American

California

ac-corque.

queel-yok .-

ten-igh

qual-a-yoque

ac-coiirt

ah-ah, oh

co-bar-ro, co-barque

sin, asi- eli-tic

ha- wick, ha-vick'

ha-mook

cha-pop _

se-rap'

hum-hook'

path-caye" _.

chip-hook'

hum-ha-mook'

sah-hook'

as-a-o, atch-a-mam

a-sfe, ha-siic

co-no

a-heese, chee-muk.

au-nuc
a-bouck

n'yee-moom, at-co-be'r-quic

que-dique (ker-deek), n'yuc-a-
yuc

atch-ar-see- varch

a-see-mah _.

a-ee-pove

quer-quer, atch-ak-que"rk

o-ook

o-moo-han

a-woo-noorch

au-u-suc
et-sims

ass-ec-poo

Her-c6h

Pain-gote-sah

N'ya-hap

XIX. Coco-Maeicopa.

es-ee'lsch.

ac-quee-arm

Yah-bay-paiesh
Cou-chan

Pain-gote-sahch

XX. Mojavb.

a-miche'

hul-i-yom'.

co-bar'-ro

set'-to

ha-vi'-ca

ha-mo'-co ...
june-pap'-a .

se-ra-pa

sin'-ta

vi'-ca

mook'-a

pai'-a

a-ra'-pa

0- ma'-o

1- thi'-o

a-ba-be'-rum
huc-am'

n yi-moom

i-mak
es-o-ma'om

hutch-e-querrk

ich-e-uk'

at-co-que'-but

at-a-pou'-yop

ar-a-o'-ik

ath-i-pam

qui'-bak

et-er-ab'

Pain-gote-satch'

XXI. Diegeno.

pee

en-yat'l

mat-in-yat'l

ho

hinc

ha-wuc

ha-mook

cha-p6p

serap*

as-a-o
ay-saie

aser-merayo

100

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

YUMA. — Continued.

XVIII. CuCHAN.

! XIX. Coco-Maricopa.

XX. Mojave.

XXI. Dieoeno.

Rio Colorado

Rio Gila

Rio Azul

Emory's Hill

Pyramid Hill

Capitol Dome Hill

Pilot Knob

Pilot range

Chimney Rock

Casa Blanca

Ursa Major

Orion

Pleiades

Polaris

Sirius -

Rich man -

Good melon —

River's bank

Mountain range.

Go

Come here

Sit down

How do you do?

Como se llama ?

Quien sabe? (don't know)

I am hungry

Give me

Give me tobacco —

Let it alone --

To the town

The man is ugly.

The woman is handsome _ -
This girl has pretty eyes

Ha-weel-cha-whoot (Red river)
Ha-qua-si-eel (Salt river)

Ha-bec-coha

Ha-bee-co-a-chis

Ha-bee-to-ciie

Ha-bee-co-la-la

Que-you-so-win-a

Mel-ee-keet-a

che'-niet-a-han

n' yee'ni-cot-a-bar-bah

que-dique (ker-dcek).

qui-yay-vay-may-deek ?

es-me'-deek

me-cham-pou-ee-ka

en-caique

o-oobe-en-caique

ee-pah-n'ya-a-nuc
seen-yac-n' y e-hanac

n'yats-hes-sailk

n'3-o-pike

no-py-am?

ho-wo-d6wk

n've-moom

Hah-quah-sie-eel-ish
Hush-yen- tis

A-vuc-hoo-mar-lish

I speak

I wish

I have none

Have you none ?

You have some

I am going

I go shortly i ac-court-n'ya-moom

I am going above j mS-tue-a-deek

I am going to California n'ya-hap me-ye-moom

I am going home | at-co-ber-quic-n'ye-val-yay-ye-

i

I moom

It is well that I am going J at-co-be'rquic-n'yc-valyay - me-

home moom-ah-trole'k
Am ...|

ah-bee-i' 11-hatsch

her-dee'k

matah-hah-wfck ?

ah-bah-pailque

mcsahaitz -ayc-dotz-a-
hot'k

Ah-chi'-cu-ta-bech'-
A'-mu
Hut -char'
Mas-a-ke-ha'-ba
A-mo-tu-ca-be'- ra
i-pah han

qui-imk'
que-dic'
qui-niic'

cu'-cha ?
es-e-me-dic

cur-be-nailk'

cu-ca-nar-buk

cawa

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

YUMA. — Continued.

101

XVIII. Cuchan.

XIX. Coco-Maeicopa.

XX. Mo j ave.

XXI. Diegeno.

pooti vurris-coo-quit' 1-hue

n'ya-pee-tawa

poo-ee-pia-a

n' ya-coquayo- asa-ho

n'ya-aha-asay

11' ya— quar-quac-ase'e

n' ya-hut-n' yay-pilyay

n' ya-hut-pour-y ' ayo

n' ya-hut-meton-yat' 1-ninia

I have a horse

I had a horse yesterday

I shall have a horse to-
morrow

Kemaeks.

The Yumas are a nation of aborigines divided into a number of tribes, which dwell on either
side of the Kio Colorado.

Cuchans. — According to Whipple this branch of the Yuma nation numbers about- 5,000 per-
sons. They live in villages on both^bz^k" the Rio Colorado, within about twenty miles of
the Eio Gila. They are a noble race, well-formed, active and intelligent. Their clothing
consists of the breech-cloth, and they exhibit the usual Indian fondness for paint. They are
proud of their hair, and take great pains in dressing and trimming it. In front it is cropped
off level with the eyebrows; but behind it is matted into plaits, and falls upon the back, reach-
ing nearly to the ground. This fashion is followed by all the cognate tribes. Their women,
besides attending to household duties, cultivate fields of maize and melons; Mr. Whipple
remarks that he never knew one of them to be ill-treated. The Yumas are sprightly, full of
life, gaiety, and good humor.

The Cuchan vocabulary, which was collected by Mr. Whipple in the year 1849, during a
sojourn of two months with the tribe, is believed to be the only one yet published. It was first
printed in ''Extract from a Journal of an Expedition from San Diego to the Rio Colorado, by
A. W. Whipple," and again in the second volume of Schoolcraft's History, &c. , of the Indian
Tribes. Of the language of the Cuchans, Mr. Whipple says: "It seems wanting in none of
the sounds we have in English, and they pronounce with great ease any English or Spanish
word which they hear spoken." For the system of orthography employed in this vocabulary,
see introductory remarks. Mr. Whipple says in a note, " The words marked with an asterisk
(*) were learned from Pablo (Pablo Coelum, by birth a Comoyei, but formerly chief of the
Yumas or Cuchans) ; some of them were found to be of his native tongue, Comoyei, and proba-
bly nearly all are. Those not marked have been tested by a reference to the native Cuchans.
The phrases given were in daily use among us, and were well understood to convey the meaning
given."

Goco-Maricopas . — This tribe was encountered by Father Kino at the end of the seventeenth
century, and they are represented to have occupied the country south of the river Grila, near
150 miles in length from its mouth upwards. Colonel Emory says : "We know the Maricopas
have moved gradually from the Gulf of California to their present location in juxtaposition with
the Pimos. Carson found them, so late as the year 1826, at the mouth of the Grila ; and Doctor

102

VOCABULARIES OP NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

Anderson, who passed from Sonora to California in 1828, found them, as near as he could
reckon from his notes, about the place we are now encamped in." Their present position, as
already mentioned, is in a village on the northern hank of the Gila, a few miles west of that of
the Pimas, in about west longitude 112°.

In describing them Colonel Emory says : " They live in cordial amity with the Pimos, and
their habits, agriculture, religion, and manufactures are the same. In stature they are taller,
their noses are more aquiline, and they have a much readier manner of speaking and acting.
I noticed that most of the interpreters of the Pimos were of this tribe, and also the men we met
with in the spy-guard." He bears the same testimony to tbeir honesty tbat Lieutenant Whip-
ple does to that of their brethren of the Colorado. A very complete and graphic account of
these interesting people, and their neighbors, the Pimas, their characters, habits, various
branches of industry, &c, is found in the second volume of Bartlett' s Personal Narrative.

A comparison of their language with that of the Colorado tribes shows that the early
accounts, which represent them, then as now, as at deadly feud with the Yumas, yet speaking
essentially the same language, are correct. The only vocabulary heretofore published is one
of twenty words communicated by Colonel Emory to Mr. Gallatin, and printed in the second
volume of the American Ethnological Society's Transactions. That of Mr. Whipple, which,
though incomplete, is much more extensive, agrees well with it, as far as the two coincide in
the choice of words.

Mojaves (called by themselves A-moc-hd-ve) . — Mr. Bartlett says: "At Fort Yuma we heard
of a tribe called 3fohavi, who occupy the country watered by a river of the same name, which
empties into the Colorado about 150 miles above the fix , They are said to be a fine, athletic
people, exceedingly warlike, and superior to the ifoner tribes along the river." This tribe was
met with by Mr. Whipple on the east of the Colorado, above Bill Williams's Fork. They are
described by him as muscular and well-proportioned, tall and erect, with a step as light as a
deer's. From the abundance of grain and vegetables with which they supplied the party, they
appear to be industrious tillers of the soil. The vocabulary, obtained from one of the tribe, is
the first ever published. In it the vowel i has the sound of ec in the others of this table.

Diegenos (Diegeenos, Llegeenos). — These Indians are so called from the chief place near which
they are found. Mr. Bartlett says they are the same who were known to the first settlers as
the Comeya tribe ; but Mr. Whipple asserts that the tribe of the desert called Como-yei, or Que-
maya, speak a different language. They are said to occupy the coast for some fifty miles above,
and about the same distance below San Diego, and to extend about a hundred miles into the
interior. The effect of their connexion with the Spanish missions seems to have been the reverse
of improvement. Mr. Bartlett describes some of them as "a filthy-looking set, half-clad, and
apparently half-starved, who spend ten times as much labor in collecting the roots, seeds, and
other wretched food they live on, as would be necessary, by cultivating the soil, to produce
bread, fruits, and meats in abundance." Yet, says Whipple, " they possess the greatest reve-
rence for the church of Rome, and, glorying in a Christian's name, look with disdain upon
their Indian neighbors of the desert and the Rio Colorado, calling them miserable gentiles.
According to the statement of their chief, the tribe numbers about 8,800 persons."

A vocabulary of their language, furnished by Doctor Coulter, was published in the eleventh
volume of the Royal Geographical Society's Journal. That of Lieutenant Whipple, obtained
from their chief, Tomaso, and which is also very brief, has appeared in the same publica-
tions as the Cuchan. Where the choice of words in the two coincide, which is but rarely,
they agree tolerably well. As to the numerals, it -will be perceived that Mr. Whipple gives
only the five first. He, however, adds in a note, "According to Tomaso (chief of the Diege-
nos), the Diegeenos have but five numerals; although others of the tribe hesitatingly gave
me ten, apparently erroneously taken from the Yumas." That this suspicion, however, is
not correct, will appear from the following comparison of the numerals thus obtained with
those given by Doctor Coulter. See especially numbers Jive and ten. Mr. Whipple had no

VOCABULARIES OF NORTH AMERICAN LANGUAGES.

103

idea that the Diegeiios helong to the Yuma stock. It should he ohserved that in this instance
"both the Cuchan and Diegeno vocabularies have had the "benefit of his corrections.

Diegeno Numerals.

One...
Two ..
Three
Four .
Five..

Six

Seven
Eight .
Nine..
Ten...,

Coulter.

siha

xahuac*

xamoc

tchapap ....

xetlacai

xentchapai

tchapap-tchapap .

sihnt chahoi

namat

Whipple.

hinc

hawoc

hamook

chay-pop

shuckle-akayo

sumhook

serap

sahook

chiphook

yamat

Ydbipais (Yabapais, Yampais, Yampaio, Yampaos). — These people, who live to the north-
east of the Mojaves, also helong to the Yuma stock. A couple of them visited Mr. Whipple's
camp. He describes them as " hroad-faced fellows, with Roman noses and small eyes, some-
what in appearance like the Diegenos of California." Their language also resemhled that of
the latter, as is evinced hy the words Jianna, good; n'yatz, I; pooh, heads. Their hair he de-
scribes as clipped short over the forehead, in the fashion of the Grila and Colorado Indians, and
as hanging from the hack of the head nearly down to the waist; hut nothing is said of the
long heards ascrihed to them hy Humholdt on the authority of the early missionaries.

There are still other Yuma trihes (see Whipple's Extract from a Journal &c, pp. 16. 17;
Schooler. Hist., &c, II, 115. 116); hut the ahove are all of whose languages we as yet possess
specimens.

* It is evident that Doctor Coulter uses x to denote the guttural usually represented by Teh or the Greek X.

CHAPTER VI.

Condition of the Aborigines of New Mexico upon its discovery by Spaniards.

From regarding the present condition of the wild natives of the interior of our country, the
mind naturally turns to an inquiry concerning their past history. From themselves, little can
he learned. Indians are a wary people, cautious in all their intercourse with whites, and
guard with religious fidelity the secrets of their trihes and race. Of their numerous traditions,
it is probahle that few have been communicated to us, and those are generally in meager out-
lines, partly from the want of a common language by which the savage might express his
ideas. Therefore, for a history of the tribes under consideration, we must seek materials in
the reports of early Spanish explorers, and allow the balance of the web to be woven with what
can be collected from traditions, superstitions, antiquities, arts, customs, and from a comparison
of their physiological developments and language with those of other nations.

From the same sources only can be found a solution to other questions equally interesting.
Frequently, at this day, are discovered extensive ruins, which must have been the abodes of a
large population, at a considerable distance from permanent springs or streams of water ; and
it has been suggested by some, that the climate and nature of the country must have undergone
a radical change since the occupation of those pueblos. At present, the regions of Moqui and
Zuiii contain, during certain seasons, only a scanty supply of water; while, according to vague
traditions of the Indians, in the palmy clays of their ancestors, not only the valleys, but the
extensive mesas also, which are now usually waterless and comparatively barren, were fertilized
by rain, and yielded abundant crops to the cultivators of the soil. The rains that have lately
flooded that country — probably for the first time during many years — seem to add interest to
the theory of a change, which, according to an ancient Indian prediction, handed down from
generation to generation, and fully believed in by that superstitious people, is now to be
reversed. Hence, to elucidate these points, as far as material may be found for it, the records
of the explorers of the sixteenth century become matter of interest. Many of them are yet in
manuscript, and enclosed in the archives of Spain or Mexico. Those which were published had
a limited circulation, and are now rarely to be met with. Among the rare and valuable works
upon American history in the extensive library of Col. Peter Force, of Washington, are
found printed and manuscript documents illustrative of the condition of this continent upon
its first discovery by Spaniards. Here we have access to Hakluyt's description of voyages, pub-
lished in 1600. As it contains much that is interesting regarding early explorations in the
region between Eio Grande and the Colorado, and may be useful for a comparison with the pre-
ceding, a brief recapitulation of those portions which relate to the country and people under
consideration will constitute the remainder of this chapter.

' ' RELATION OF THE REVEREND FATHER FRIAR MARCO DE NICA TOUCHING HIS DISCOVERY OF THE KING-
DOM OF CEVOLArf"

In execution of the instructions of the right honorable lord Don Antonio de Mendoca, vice-
roy and captain-general for the Emperor's majesty in New Spain, Friar Marco de Nica departed
from the town of San Miguel, in the province of Culiacan, on Friday, the 7th of March, in the
year 1539. His companion was Friar Honoratus, and he carried with him a negro named

MAECO DE NINA'S JOURNEY TO CEVOLA.

105

Stephen, and certain Indians of the town of Cuchillo, whom the viceroy had made free. He
proceeded to Petatlan, where he rested three days, and then left his companion Honoratus sick.
Thence, "following as the Holy Ghost did lead," he travelled twenty-five or thirty leagues,
seeing nothing worthy of notice, saving certain Indians from "the island of Saint Iago, where
Fernando Cortez, of the valley, had been;" and he learned that among the islands were "great
store of pearls." Continuing through a desert of . four days' journey, accompanied hy the
Indians of the islands and of the mountains which he passed, he found other Indians, who
marvelled to see him ; having no knowledge of any Christians, or even of the Indians from
whom they were separated hy the desert. They entertained him kindly, and called him
"Hayota," in their language signifying "a man come from heaven."

The desert referred to is between Bio Yaqui and Bio Sonora, a distance of something more
than one hundred miles. Mr. Bartlett, in his "Personal Narrative," describes the portion of
it which he crossed from Hermosillo to Guaymas, thirty-seven leagues, as being "destitute of
streams," "barren and uninteresting." The Indians found beyond this desert consequently
occupied the valley of the Sonora river, called by Vasquez de Coronado, as we shall see here-
after, the valley of Coracones. Here Friar Marco was informed that four or five days within
the country, at the foot of the mountains, "there was a large and mighty plain, wherein were
many great towns, and people clad in cotton." And when he showed them certain metals which
he carried, "they took the mineral of gold," and told him "that thereof were vessels among
the people of that plain, and that they carried certain round green stones hanging at their nos-
trils and at their ears, and that they had certain thin plates of gold wherewith they scrape off
their sweat, and that the walls of their temples are covered therewith." But as this "valley"
(previously called a plain) was distant from the sea-coast, he deferred "the discovery thereof"
until his return.

By a reference to modern maps, it will be perceived that this valley, or plain, which he
is informed lies four or five days' travel within the country, corresponds nearly with that of
Bio de las Casas Grandes, where, at this day, are ruins, about one hundred and fifty miles east
from the valley of Bio Sonora. These ruins are minutely described by Mr. Bartlett, and, at the
time of Friar Marco's expedition, must have been famous cities among the Indian tribes.

Marco de Nica travelled three clays through towns inhabited by the people of the Coracones, and
then came to a "town of reasonable bigness," called Vacupa, forty leagues distant from the sea.
This place corresponds nearly with Magdalena, on Bio San Miguel, and its inhabitants were
probably ancestors of the Cocopas, now scattered over the deserts northwestward, and many resi-
ding near the mouth of Bio Colorado. The people of Vacupa, he states, showed him "great
courtesies," and gave him "great store of good victuals, because the soil is very fruitful and
may be watered." Here the negro, Stephen, was sent in advance, to reconnoitre. At the end
of four days Father Marco received a message from Stephen, stating that wonderful accounts
had been told him of a great city, called Cevola, thirty days' journey distant. The negro pushed
on, without waiting as he was ordered, and succeeded in making the discovery of that people,
who finally killed him.

Upon the same day that Nica received these messengers from Stephen, there came to him three
Indians of those whom he called Pintados, because he saw their faces, breasts, and anus
painted. " These dwell further up into the country, towards the east, and some of them border
upon the seven cities." The Pintados probably belonged to the tribe now called Papagos, or
Pimas; for I believe the Papagos and Pimas of the present day are one nation, speaking the
same language. They are still scattered over the country referred to by the reverend father,
from the Santa Cruz valley to Bio Gila, which perhaps may be said to border on the kingdom
of Cibola.

With these Pintados he departed from Vacupa upon Easter Tuesday ; and having (ravelled
three days northward, the way that Stephen had gone before him, he was informed that a man
might travel in thirty days to the city of Cevola, which is the first of the seven. He was told,
II i

106

MARCO DE NIgA'S JOURNEY TO CEVOLA.

also, that besides the seven cities, there were three other kingdoms, called Marata, Acus, and
Totonteac. He asked of these Indians why they travelled to Cevola, so far from their houses.
They said that they went for turquoises, ox-hides, and other things which they received in
payment for labor in tilling their ground. They described the dress of the inhabitants of
Cevola to be "a gown of cotton down to the foot, with a button at the neck, and a long string
hanging down at the same; and that the sleeves of these gowns are as broad beneath as
above."* "They gird themselves with girdles of turqueses;"f and besides these "some
wear good apparel; others, hides of kine,| very well dressed." The Pintados carried certain
sick folks to see him, that he might heal them ; and the invalids sought to touch his garments
for that purpose.

He continued his journey five days, always finding inhabited places, great hospitality, and
many "turqueses," and ox-hides. § He then understood that after two days' journey he would
find a desert, where there was no food. Before he reached this desert, he arrived at a "very
pleasant town, by reason of great store of waters conveyed thither to water the same." || Here
he met with many people, both men and women, clothed in cotton, and some covered with
ox-hides, "which generally they take for better apparel than that of cotton." ^ "All the
people of this village," he states, "go in caconados; that is to say, with turqueses hanging at
their nostrils and ears, which turqueses they call cacona."**

The "lord of this village," and others, visited him, " apparelled in cotton," " in caconados,"
and each with a collar of turquoises about his neck. They gave him conies, quails, maize, and
nuts of pine-trees, and offered turquoises, dressed ox-hides, and fair vessels to drink in, which
he declined. They informed him that in Totonteac was a great quantity of woolen cloth, such
as he himself wore, made from the fleeces of wild beasts, ft These beasts they told him "were
about the satne bigness of" two spaniels which Stephen carried with him.

The next day he entered the desert, and where he was to dine he found bowers made, and
victuals in abundance, by a river's side.J| Thus the Indians provided for him during four days
that the "wilderness" continued. He then entered a valley, §§ very well inhabited with people,
who were dressed also in cotton robes, with turquoise pendants from their ears and nostrils, and
numerous strings of the same encircling their necks.

Through this valley, which was inhabited by "a goodly people," he travelled five days' jour-
ney, mi The country was " well watered, and like a garden," "abounding in victuals," "sufficient
to feed above three thousand horsemen." The boroughs and towns were from a quarter to half
a league long. Here he found a man born in Cevola, having escaped "from the governor or
lieutenant of the same; for the lord of the seven cities liveth and abideth in one of those towns,
called Ahacus, and in the rest he appointeth lieutenants under him." This townsman of

* This description is simply that of a Pima cotton blanket thrown over the shoulders, and pinned by a wooden button
at the neck. The natural folds of this garment would produce " sleeves as broad beneath as above." In thus modifying
the account, I would not impeach the veracity of the narrator. It is easy to conceive how, with imperfect means of com-
municating with the Indians, a lively imagination might lead to exaggerations such as he was afterwards charged with.

■\ Probably Pima or Zuiii belts, ornamented with green stones.

J Buckskin or buffalo robes.

§ Probably buffalo robes.

|| This is the present site of Tucson, a rich and fertile valley, watered by acequias.
^| If allowed for " ox-hides" to read buckskin, the account will apply to the Pimas of the present day.
*« It is usual for all the principal Indian chiefs of the Gila and Colorado, as well as those of Zuiii, to wear blue stones
pendant from the nose.

•(■f Possibly the long hair of the big horn wild sheep, which are abundant in these parts, may have been woven into cloth.
\X I cannot conceive what river he speaks of ; possibly some rivulet might have appeared upon the desert, between
Tucson and Kio Gila.

§§ This was the valley of Rio Gila.

|| || He must have crossed over to the Salinas, (Kio Azul,) and ascended that river. It is surprising that he makes no
mention of large buildings or ruins upon its banks.

DESCRIPTION OF CEVOLA.

107

Cevola "is a white man,* of good complexion, somewhat well in years, and of far greater
capacity than the inhabitants of this valley," or those left behind. Friar Marco thus relates
his description of Cevola: It is "a great city, inhabited with great store of people, and having
many streets and market-places; in some parts of this city there are certain very great houses,
of five stories high, wherein the chief of the city assemble themselves at certain days of the jrear.
The houses are of lime and stone ; the gates and small pillars of the principal houses are of
iurqueses ; and all the vessels wherein they are served, and other ornaments of their houses,
are of gold. The other six cities are built like unto this, whereof some are bigger, and Ahacus
is the chiefest of them. At the southeast there is a kingdom called Marataf, where there were
wont to be many great cities, which were all builded of houses of stone, with divers lofts;
and these have and do wage war with the lord of the seven cities, through which war the king-
dom of Marata is for the most part wasted, although it yet continueth and maintaineth war
against the other."

"Likewise the kingdom of TotonteacJ lieth toward the west— a very mighty province, replen-
ished with infinite store of people and riches ; and in the said kingdom they wear woolen cloth,
made of fleeces of those beasts previously described; and they are a very civil people." He
told also of another kingdom called Acus.§

Here they showed him a hide, half as big again as the hide of an ox, which they said
belonged to a beast with one horn. The color of the skin was like that of a goat, and the hair
was a finger thick.

The inhabitants requested him to stay here three or four days, because from this place there
were "four days' journey into the desert, and from the first entrance into the same desert unto the
city of Cevola are fifteen great days' journey more." Accompanied by thirty of the principal
Indians, with others to carry their provisions, he entered this second desert on the 9th of May.
He travelled the first day by a very broad and beaten way, and came to dinner unto a water,
and at night unto another water, where the Indians provided him with a cottage and victuals.
In this manner he travelled twelve days' journey. At that point he met one of Stephen's
Indians, who, "in great fright, and covered with sweat," informed him that the people of
Cevola had at first imprisoned, and afterward killed the negro.

Father Marco himself then became fearful of trusting his life in the hands of that people.
But he told his companions that he " purposed to see the city of Cevola, whatsoever came of it."
So he ascended a mountain, and viewed the city. He describes it as "situated upon a plain, at
the foot of a round hill, || and maketh show to be a fair city ; and is better seated ' ' than any that
he has seen in these parts. The houses "were builded in order," according as the Indians
had told him; "all made of stone, with divers stories and flat roofs." "The people T[ are some-
what white ; they wear apparel, and lie in beds ; their weapons are bows ; they have emeralds
and other jewels, although they esteem none so much as turqueses, wherewith they adorn the
walls of the porches of their houses, and their apparel and vessels ; and they use them instead
of money through all the country." "Their apparel is of cotton and of ox-hides, and this is
their most commendable and honorable apparel." "They use vessels of gold and of silver, for

* It is remarkable that, at the present day, many of the Indians of Zulu are white. They have a fair skin, blue eyflB,
chestnut or auburn hair, and are quite good looking. They claim to be full-blooded Zufiians, and have no tradition of in-
termarriages with any foreign race. The circumstance creates no surprise among this people, for from time immemorial a.
similar class of persons has existed in the tribe.

f I believe this to have been at Casas Grandes, near Corralitas.

X Totonteac is doubtless the country lying upon the waters of Rio Verde and Pueblo creek. Civilization ami the arts
must have made considerable progress there; but if the Tontos, who now roam over a large part of this country, are
descended from that race, they have wofully degenerated.

§ The position of the kingdom of Acus is not mentioned. It may have been upon the Colorado Ohiquito, or upon the
Caiion do Chelly; at both places there are ancient ruins, well described by Captains Sitgreaves ami Simpson.

|| This description answers quite well for Ziiui at the present day.
The following he could not have seen, but probably status on the authority of his informers.

108

CORONADO'S EXPEDITION TO CIBOLA.

they have no other metal, whereof there is greater use and more abundance than in Peru ; and
they buy the same for turqueses in the province of the Pintados,* where there are said to he
mines of great ahundance." Of other kingdoms, he says he could not ohtain so particular
instruction.

When he told the Indian chiefs that were with him what a goodly city Cevola seemed, they
told him that it was the least of the seven cities, and that "Totonteac was the greatest and
best of them all, because it had so many houses and people ;" "that there was no end of them."

Having set up a cross, and made a heap of stones, he named that country El Nuevo Reyno de
San Francisco. Then, "with more fear than victuals," he returned. In two days he overtook
the people he had left hehind, crossed the desert, hurried from the valley, and passed the
second desert. Having arrived at the valley of Santa Cruz, he determined to visit the great
plain he had been informed of, toward the east ; hut, for fear of the Indians, did not go into it.
At its entrance he saw "but seven towns, of a reasonable bigness, which were afar off in a low
valley, being very green, and having a most fruitful soil, out of which ran many rivers." f He
was informed that there was much gold in this valley, and that the inhabitants worked it
into vessels and thin plates ; but they did not suffer those of the other side of the plain to traf-
fic with them. Having, as usual, set up crosses and taken possession, he returned to San
Miguel, in the province of Culiacan, and finally to Cornpostella.

"THE RELATION OF FRANCISCO VASQUEZ DE CORONADO, CAPTAIN GENERAL OF THE PEOPLE WHO WERE
SENT, IN THE NAME OF THE EMPEROR'S MAJESTY, TO THE COUNTRY OF CIBOLA,! NEWLY DISCOVERED."

On the 22d of April, 1540, Coronado, with "part of the army," set out from the province of
Culiacan, and after great hardships arrived at the valley § of the people called Caracones on
the 26th of May. Here, the corn not heing ripe, he sent over to the Valle|| del Senor, where
some was purchased. Leaving the Caracones, he endeavored to keep as near as possible to the
sea-coast; but, when he arrived at Chichilticale,! he found himself ten days' journey from the
sea. Having rested here two days, he entered the desert country beyond, on St. John's eve
(23d of June). For the first few clays there was a scarcity of grass. The mountains and bad
passages were worse than he had before found. In this last desert he lost many horses and
some of his friendly Indians ; one Spaniard and two negroes also died for the lack of food.
Coronado says, in describing this part of his route, "it is a most wicked way, at least thirty
leagues and more, because there are inaccessible mountains."** "But," he continues, "after
we had passed these thirty leagues, we found fresh rivers, and grass like that of Castile ; and
especially of that sort which we call scaramonio ; many nut trees and mulberry trees, but the
nut trees differ from those of Spain in the leaf; and there was flax, hut chiefly near the hanks
of a certain river, which therefore we called El Rio del Lino," (river of flax), ft Here he was
met by some of the people of Cibola. At first they appeared friendly ; afterward they attacked
his army very valiantly, hut at length retired, "sounding a certain small trumpet in token
of retreat." Afterward, he says, "the Indians here and there made fires, and were answered

a In mountains near the valley of Tucson and Santa Cruz, where I have located the Pintados, there are known to be
rich mines of silver ; and gold iR said to be abundant. As that region now belongs to the United States, it is probable
the mines will be worked.

f We have already referred to this plain as the present Casas Grandes, or the ancient kingdom of Marata.

f Coronado changes the spelling of Friar Marco, from Cevola, which doubtless corresponded to the Indian pronunciation,
to Cibola, which word is now used throughout Mexico to denote buffalo. Probably the term for the latter was derived
from this country, where so many hides were reported to have been seen.

§ Valley of San Miguel river. || Rio Sonora.

^| " Chichilticale," meaning Red House, is the often-described ruin of the present day, in the valley of Bio Gila, near
the Pima villages.

•° Sierra Mogoyon, between the Pima villages and Znui.
j-f El Rio del Lino is the Colorado Chiquito.

CONQUEST OF CIBOLA. — DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE.

109

again* afar off, as orderly as we for our lives could have done, to give their fellows under-
standing how we marched and where we arrived." As soon as he came within sight of the city
of Cibola, (which he names Granada,) he sent messengers thither; hut they were ill treated and
fired upon. Upon his arrival at the spot, after an attack and skirmish without the walls, Cor-
onado boldly assaulted the city, which, after considerable resistance, yielded to his valor. The
Indians fought with bows and arrows, and threw stones upon them from the walls. Coronado
himself was twice unhorsed, but his Spanish armor saved him.

Entering the town, they found plenty of corn, of which they were greatly in need; several
persons, as has been said, having starved upon the way.

Coronado's description of Cibola is given in his own words: "It remaineth now to testify
your honor of the seven cities, and of the kingdoms and provinces whereof the father provincial
made report to your lordship ; and to be brief, I can assure your honor he said the truth in
nothing that he reported; but all was quite contrary, saving only the names of the cities
and great houses of stone; for although they be not wrought with turqueses, nor with lime,
nor bricks, yet are they very excellent good houses of three or four or five lofts high, wherein
are good lodgings and fair chambers, with ladders instead of stairs ; and certain cellars under
the ground very good and paved, which are made for winter ; they are in manner like stoves ;
and the ladders which they have for their houses are all in a manner moveable and portable ;
which are taken away and set down when they please, and they are made of two pieces of wood,
with their steps as ours be. The seven cities are seven small towns, all made with these kind
of houses that I speak of; and they stand all within four leagues together ; and they are all
called the kingdom of Cibola, and every one of them have their particular name ; and none of
the i is called Cibola, but altogether they are called Cibola. And this town, which I call a
city, I have named Granada; as well because it is somewhat like unto it, as also in remembrance
ot your lordship. In this town, where I now remain, there may be some 200 houses; all com-
passed with walls, and I think that with the rest of the houses, which are not so Availed, there
may be together 500. There is another town, near this, which is one of the seven; and it is
somewhat bigger than this, and another of the same bigness that this is of; and the other four
are somewhat less ; and I send them all painted to your lordship with the voyage ; and the
parchment, whereon the picture is, was found here with other parchments. The people of this
town seem to me of reasonable stature and witty; but they seem not to be such as they should
be, of that judgment and wit to build their houses in such sort as they are. For the most part
they go all naked, except their private parts, which are covered; and they have painted mantles
like those which I send unto your lordship. They have no cotton-wool growing, because the
country is cold, yet they wear mantles thereof, as your lordship may see by the shew thereof ;
and true it is that there was found within their houses certain yarn made of cotton-wool. They
wear their hair on their heads like those of Mexico ; and they are well nurtured and conditioned ;
and they have turqueses, I think good quantity, which with the rest of the goods which they
had, except their corn, they had conveyed away before I came thither; for I found no women
there, nor no youth under fifteen years old, nor no old folks above fifty; saving two or three
old folks who staid behind to govern all the rest of the youth and men of war. There were
found in a certain paper two pints of emeralds, and certain small stones broken, which are in
colour somewhat like granates very bad and other stones of crystal. * * We found here cer-
tain guinie cocks, hut few. The Indians tell me in all these seven cities that they eat them
not, but that they keep them only for their feathers. I believe them not, for they are excellent
good, and greater than those of Mexico. The season which is in this country, and the tempera-
ture of the air, is like that of Mexico ; for sometime it is hot and sometime it raineth : but hith-
erto I never saw it rain, but once there fell a little shower with wind as they arc wont to fall in
Spain. The snow and cold are wont to be great ; for so say the inhabitants of the count ry , and

* Such signals by fires and smokes are practised by Indians at the present d iv

110

TOTONTEAC AND OTHER INDIAN NATIONS.

it is very likely so to be, "both in respect to the manner of the country and by the fashion of
their houses, and their furs, and other things which this people have to defend them from cold.
There is no kind of fruit nor trees of fruit. The country is all plain, and is on no side moun-
tainous ; albeit there are some hilly and bad passages. There are small store of fowls, the cause
whereof is the cold, and because the mountains are not near. Here is no great store of wood,
because they have wood for their fuel sufficient four leagues off, from a wood of small cedars.
There is most excellent grass within a quarter of a league hence, for our horses, as well to feed
them in pasture as to mowe and make hay. * * * The victuals which the people of this
country have is maize, whereof they have great store, and also small white peas ; and venison
which by all likelihood they feed upon (though they say no), for we found many skins of deer,
of hares, and conies. They eat the best cakes that ever I saw, and every body generally eateth
of them. They have the finest order and way to grind that we ever saw in any place. And
one Indian woman of this country will grind as much as four women of Mexico. They have
most excellent salt, in kernel, which they fetch from a certain lake a day's journey from hence.
* * * Here are many sorts of beasts, as bears, tigers, lions, porkenspikes (porcupines?)
and certain sheep* as big as an horse, with very great horns and little tails. I have seen their
horns so big that it is a wonder to behold their greatness. Here are also wild goats, whoso
heads likewise I have seen, and the paws of bears, and the skins of wild boars. There is
game of deer, ounces, and very great stags. * * * They travel eight days' journey into
certain plains, lying toward the North sea. In this country there are certain skins well
dressed, and they dress them and paint them where they kill their oxen, for so they say them-
selves."

" The kingdom of Totonteac, so much extolled by the father provincial, which said there
were such wonderful things there, and such great matters, and that they made cloth there, the
Indians say is a hot lakef, about which are five or six houses ; and that there were certain other,
but that they are ruinated by a war. The kingdom of Marata is not to be found, neither have
the Indians any knowledge thereof. The kingdom of Acus is one only small city, where they
gather cotton which is called Acacu. * * Beyond this town (Acus) they say there are other
small towns which are near to a river J which I have seen and have had report of by relation of
the Indians."

Coronado states that these people abandoned their town, and fled to the hills with their
wives and children and all their goods ; and that, with all his persuasions, he could not induce
them to come down from their strongholds. It was then, probably, that old Zuni was rebuilt.
This agrees quite well with what I was told by the Zuiiians themselves.

Coronado relates that they assured him that, ' ' above fifty years past, it was prophesied
among them that a certain people like us should come, and from that part that we came from,
and that they should subdue all that country."

He adds: " that which these Indians worship, as far as hitherto we can learn, is the water ;
for they say it causeth their corn to grow, and maintaineth their life ; and that they know none
other reason but that their ancestors did so."

To his inquiries of other countries, they tell him of "seven cities § which are far distant from
that place, which are like unto theirs, except the houses are of earth, and small; and that
among them much cotton is gathered." The chief of these towns is called Tucano. But Coro-
nado thinks they do not tell him the truth. Among the curiosities which Coronado sent to the
viceroy of Mexico, was a garment excellently embroidered with needlework. He sent also some

• Big horn sheep — in the Yuma language called cerhats.

j There may he a hot lake in the volcanic region of San Francisco mountains. If these people were friends of those at
Totonteac, they were wise in giving the conqueror a had opinion of that province.
| Rio del Norte.

§ The description will not answer for the seven puchlos of Moqui. The valley of Rio Verde may he referred to ; for upon
the lower portion of it there are adobe ruins.

EXPEDITION TO TIGUEX AND QUIVIRA.

Ill

clothes painted with the beasts of the country ; which he says were not well done, as the Indian
painter was occupied hut one day in painting them. He had seen pictures on the walls of the
houses in the city executed in much better style. There were also an "ox hide" (buffalo robe),
"turquoise ear-rings, combs, and tablets set with turquoises." They told him that they killed
the negro, Stephen, because "he touched their women." He adds, that "in this place is
found some quantity of gold and silver, very good," but he cannot learn whence it comes, as
they refuse to tell him the truth in all things.

CORONADO'S EXPEDITION CONTINUED.

" The rest of the history of this voyage to Acuco, Tiguex, Cicuic, and Quivira, by Francisco Lopes

de Gomara."

They agreed to pass further into the country, which was told them to be better and better.
So they came to Acuco*, a town upon an exceeding strong hill. And from thence Don Garcias
Lopez de Cardenas went with his company of horsemen unto the sea ; and Francisco Vasquez
went to Tiguex, which standeth on the bank of a big river. f There they had news of Axa and
Quivira: where, it was said, "was a king, whose name was Tartarrax, with a long beard,
hoary-headed, and rich ; which was girded with a Bracamart ; which prayed upon a pair of
beads ; which worshipped a cross of gold and image of a woman the queen of heaven."

In the country of Tiguex there were "melons, and white and red cotton, of which they made
large mantles." "From Tiguex they went, in four days' journey, to Cicuic," a small town, "and
four leagues thence they met with a new kind of oxenj, wild and fierce, whereof, the first clay,
they killed fourscore, which sufficed the army with flesh." From Cicuic they went to Quivira,
which, by their account, is almost 300 leagues distant, "through mighty plains and sandy
heaths, smooth and wearisome, and bare of wood," so that they made heaps of ox-dung for want
of stones and trees, that they might not lose themselves upon their return; "for three horses
were lost in that plain, and one Spaniard, who went from his company on hunting." "All that
way, and the plains are as full of crooked-backed oxen as the mountain Serena in Spain is of
sheep; but there is no people but such as keep those cattle." * * "One day it rained in
that plain a great shower of hail, as big as oranges." * * At length they came to Quivira,
and found Tartarrax, whom they sought, a hoary-headed man, naked, and with a jewel of
copper hanging at his neck, which was all his riches. The Spaniards, seeing the false report of
so famous riches, returned to Tiguex, without seeing either cross or show of Christianity, and
thence to Mexico. In the end of March, 1542, Francisco Vasques fell from his horse in Tiguex,
and " with the fall fell out of his wits and became mad; which some took to be for grief, and
others thought to be counterfeited ; for they were much offended with him because he peopled
not the country." " Quivira § is in 40° ; it is a temperate country, and hath very good waters,
and much grass, plums, mulberries, nuts, melons, and grapes, which ripen very well. There
is no cotton, and they apparel themselves in ox-hides and deer-skins."

" It grieved Don Antonio de Mendoca very much that the army returned home ; for he had
spent about threescore thousand pesos of gold in the enterprise, and owed a great part thereof
still. Many sought to have dwelt there; but Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, which was rich,
and lately married to a fair wife, would not consent, saying they could not maintain nor del end
themselves in so poor a country and so far from succour."

Gromara, after describing the buffalo, adds : "There are also in this country other beasts as

* Acnco — the pueblo of Acoma. f Rio del Norte.

\ This appears to be the first instance in which wild buffalo were seen by Spaniards upon this expedition.

§ The latitude of Quivira is probably near 34°. The great barren plain crossed from Tiguex must have been in the
direction from Santa Fc5 southward ; east of Zandia and Manzana mountains. No other route would have presented the
plain they describe.

112

DISCOVERY OF RIO COLORADO BY ALARCON.

big as horses, which, because they have horns and fine wool, they call them sheep; and they
say that every horn of theirs weigh eth fifty pounds weight. There are also great dogs, which
will fight with a bull, and will carry fifty pound weight, in sacks, when they go on hunting, or
when they remove from place to place with their flocks and herds."

THE RELATION OF THE NAVIGATION AND DISCOVERY OF RIO DE BTJENA GUTA (RIO COLORADO) WHICH
CAPTAIN FERNANDO ALARCON MADE BY ORDER OF RT. HON. LORD DON ANTONIO DE MENDOCA, VICE-
ROY OF NEW SPAIN.

On Sunday, 9th May, 1540, he set sail up the Gulf of California; and, after much difficulty
from shoals and a narrow channel, "it pleased God that, after this sort," they should " come
to the very bottom of the bay ; where they found a mighty river, which ran with so great fury
of a stream that they could hardly sail against it. So they entered two boats, which his men
towed along with ropes from the shore. Meeting Indians, with great prudence he cultivated
friendly relations with them, and they afterwards not only furnished him with food, but also
assisted to draw his boats up the stream. He found Indians exceedingly numerous, having
abundance of maize and peas and gourds. It appears that they painted their faces after various
fashions; and some "carried visars before them of the same color, which had the shape of
faces."* They wore on their heads a piece of deer-skin, like a helmet, ornamented with sticks
and feathers. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and maces hardened in the fire. He
says " this is a mighty people, well featured, and without any grossness." They had pendants
from their ears and noses; and all wore girdles of various colors, and in the middle was "a
round bunch of feathers, hanging down behind like a tail." Their bodies were striped with
black, their hair was cropped before, while behind it hung down to the waist. The women
were naked, excepting a girdle of feathers, and their hair was worn like the men. When
Alarcon understood that they worshipped the sun, he told them, by signs, that he came from
the sun. They wondered greatly, and afterwards treated him with distinguished kindness.
Having passed various tribes without being able to communicate, except by signs, at length he
reached a people who understood the language of an Indian he had brought with him from
Mexico. f To them, by means of the Indian interpreter, he communicated more freely; stating
that he came from the sun, and desired them to cease from wars. The chief complained of a
certain people that lived behind a mountain and made war upon them. He also related a
tradition, saying, " Now you see how, long ago, our ancestors told us that there were bearded
and a white people in the world, and we laughed them to scorn; I, which am old, and the rest
which are here, have never seen any such people as these." Afterwards, as he ascended the
river, Alarcon found other Indians, whom his interpreter could not understand. But he was
informed that further up the river he would again find a tribe speaking the language of his
interpreter. He learned, also, that twenty-three languages were spoken by the different nations
bordering the river, and that above were other tribes unknown to his informers.

The old chief described a warlike race of men who dwelt in a town near a mountain.
They were apparelled in long robes cut with razors, and sewed with needles made of deer's
bones. They had great houses of stone, but, as their fields of maize were small, they came
yearly to the river to traffic. He learned that, in consequence of the annual overflow of the
river (Buena Guia), the people, after harvest time, removed to the foot of the mountains,
where the winter was spent ; that marriage ceremonies were celebrated with singing and
dancing, but those of near kin were never united in marriage; that the dead were burned; and
they had no definite notions of a future state.

<* Probably a hunting mask made from the skin of a deer's head.

f This agrees with a tradition which I have heard, that (he Mojaves and Yumas were originally from the city of Mexico.

ESPEJO'S JOURNEY TO NEW MEXICO.

113

At length he learned of Cevola, from one who had seen that city, "that it was a great thing,
and had very high houses of stone." He was told that the people wore long garments and hlue
stones; and that, by a path along the river, it was forty days' journey thither. Afterward,
ascending the river, he reached a town, belonging to the lord of Quicoma, which was occupied
only for the time of planting and harvest. There was cotton here, but the Indians knew not
how to use it. Among them was an Indian who understood the language of the interpreter
whom Alarcon had brought with him.

At length he inquired the distance to Cevola, and was informed that there was the space of
ten days' journey without habitation — the rest of the way not being counted, because there
were inhabitants to be found. Alarcon then wished to go to Cevola ; but the Indians discouraged
him, saying that there would be danger in passing the lord of Cumana* whom they greatly
feared. When he went forward to the next town above, called Coama, the people of Cumana
sent an enchanted person, who placed canes on both sides of the river, to prevent his passing.
He had now ascended the riverf eighty-five leagues, to where it forms a straight channel
between high mountains. He set up a cross, and returned to the G-ulf, and thence sailed for
the port of Colima.

" VOYAGES TO NEW MEXICO, BY FRIAR AUGUSTIN RUYZ, A FRANCISCAN, IN 1581, AND ANTONIO DE ESPEJO,
IN 1583. — THE LAND IS SITUATED NORTH OP NEW SPAIN, EROM 24° TO ABOVE 34° NORTH LATI-
TUDE. ' '

Augustin Kuyz and others, departing from Santa Barbara, which lies 160 leagues from the
city of Mexico, travelled 250 leagues north, into a country called the Province de los Tiguas.
Here, one of the fathers having been killed by Indians, the soldiers returned to Mexico, leaving
the other priests alone with the savages. Another expedition, under the command of a citi-
zen of Mexico, called Antonio de Espejo, left the valley of San Bartolo, November 10, 1582.
Directing his course north, he met with great numbers of Conchos, who dwelt in villages, or
'hamlets, of cottages covered with straw. These Indians went nearly naked ; cultivated maize,
pumpkins, and melons ; and were armed with bows and arrows. They worshipped neither
idols nor aught else. The caciques sent information of the expedition from one town to
another, and the party was well treated. They passed through the Passaguates, the Tobosos,
and the Jumanes, whom the Spaniards called Patarabueyes. Their villages are upon Rio del
Norte ; their houses are flat-roofed, and built of mortar and stone. These people were well
clothed, and seemed to have some knowledge of the Catholic faith. Soon ascending the great
river, they discovered another province of Indians, who showed them many curious things
made of feathers, with divers colors, and many cotton mantles, striped blue and white, like
those brought from China. These people showed by signs that, five days' journey westward,
there were precious metals.

Journeying thence northwardly, along the Kio del Norte, they were well received among a
numerous population. Here they were told, by a Concho Indian who accompanied them,
that, fifteen days' journey towards the west, could be found a broad lake, and great towns, with
houses three and four stories high. They noted especially the excellent temperature of the
climate, good soil, and abundance of precious metals.

From this province they travelled fifteen days without meeting people, but passing through
woods of pine-trees, bearing fruit, like those of Castile. Having thus travelled fourscore
leagues, they arrived at villages where there was much excellent white salt. Ascending the

* Probably the Totonteac of Father Marco de Nica ; the region bordering the valley of Rio Verde. This may be identical
with Tucano, the chief of the seven cities described by the Zuiiians to Coronado in the same year. Espejo describes a place
of the same name near Rio del Norte.

fThis agrees pretty well with Captain Sitgreaves' survey from the mouth of Williams river to the Gulf; and by the
description, the mountains also correspond with those which impinge upon the river below the junction of that stream
with the Colorado.

114

TIGUEX. — LOS QUIRES. ACOMA. — ZUNI.

valley of the aforesaid great river twelve leagues further, they arrived at the country which
they called New Mexico. Here, all along the shore of the river, grew mighty woods of poplar,
in some places four leagues hroad, and great store of walnut-trees and vines, like those of
Castillia. Having travelled two days through these woods, they arrived at ten towns, situated
upon both sides of the river, where were about ten thousand persons. Here were houses of
four stories in height, with "stoves for the winter season." They had " plenty of victuals
and hens of the country." "Their garments were of cotton and deer-skins, and the attire,
both of men and women, was after the manner of Indians of Mexico." "Both men and
women wore shoes and boots, with good soles of neat's leather — a thing never seen in any other
part of the Indies." " There are caciques who govern the people, like the caciques of Mexico;
with sergeants to execute their commands, who go through the towns proclaiming, with a
loud voice, the pleasure of the caciques." In this province were many idols, which were wor-
shipped; and "in every house was an oratory for the devil, wherein was placed for him meat."
Tbere were also "certain high chapels, in which they say the devil useth to take his ease,
and to recreate himself as he travelleth from one town to another; which chapels are marvel-
lously well trimmed and painted." "In all their arable grounds, whereof they 'have great
plenty, they erect on the one side a little cottage, or shed, standing upon four studs, under
which the laborers eat and pass away the heat of the day, for they are a people much given to
labor." "This country is full of mountains and forests of pine-trees." Their weapons were
strong bows, and arrows pointed with flints. They used also targets, or shields, made of raw
hides.

Having remained four days in this province, not far off they came to another, called the
province of Tiguas, containing sixteen towns, in one of which (Paola) the two friars, Lopez and
Ruyz, had been slain. Hence the inhabitants fled. The Spaniards, entering the town, found
plenty of food, hens, and rich metals. Here they heard of many rich towns far toward the
east. In two days' journey from the province of Tiguas, they found another province, contain-
ing eleven towns, and about 40,000 persons. The country was fertile, and bordered on Cibola,
where was abundance of kine. Here were signs of very rich mines.

Having returned to Tiguex, they ascended Rio del Norte, six leagues, to another province,
called Los Quires. Here they found five towns, and 14,000 persons, who worshipped idols.
Among the curious things seen at this place, were a pie in a cage, and "shadows, or canopies,
like those brought from China," upon which were painted the sun, moon, and stars. The
height of the pole-star led them to believe themselves in N. latitude 3*7^°.

Pursuing the same northerly course, fourteen leagues thence they found another province,
called the Cumanes (or Punames), with five towns, of which Cia was greatest, having 20,000
persons, eight market-places, and houses plastered and painted in divers colors. The inhabit-
ants presented them witli mantles curiously wrought, and showed rich metals, and mountains
near by, where were the mines. Having travelled six leagues northwest, they came to Ameies,
where are seven great towns, and 30,000 souls. One of the towns was said to be very great
and fair; but as it stood behind a mountain, they feared to approach it. Fifteen leagues west,
they found a great town called Acoma, containing above 6,000 persons, and situated upon a
high rock, which was above fifty paces high, having no entrance except by stairs hewed into
the rock. The water of this town was kept in cisterns. Their corn-fields, two leagues distant,
were watered from a small river, upon the banks of which were roses. Many mountains in this
vicinity showed signs of metals; but they went not to see them, because many warlike Indians
were dwelling upon them.

Twenty-four leagues westward from Acoma, they arrived at Zuni, by the Spaniards called
Cibola, containing great numbers of Indians. Here were three Christian Indians, left by
Coronado in 1540. They informed Espcjo that " threescore days' journey from this place there
was a mighty lake, upon the banks whereof stood many great and good towns, and that the
inhabitants of the same had plenty of gold, as shown by their wearing golden bracelets and

ENTRANCE TO MOQUI. — SILVER MINES. — REVOLT OP THE PUEBLO INDIANS IN 1680. 115

ear-rings." They said that Coronado intended to have gone there ; but having travelled twelve
days' journey, he began to want water, and returned. Espejo, desirous of seeing this rich country,
departed from Cibola, and, having travelled twenty-eight leagues west, found another great
province,* of above 50,000 souls. As they approached a town called Zaguato, the multitude,
with their caciques, met them with great joy, and poured maize upon the ground for the horses
to walk upon. And they presented the captain with 40,000 mantles of cotton, white and
colored, and many hand towels with tassels at the four corners, and rich metals which seemed
to contain much silver. Thence, travelling due west forty-five leagues, they found mines, of
which they had been informed, and took out with their own hands rich metals, containing
silver. The mines, which were of a broad vein, were in a mountain,! easily ascended by an
open way to the same. In the vicinity of the mines there were numerous Indians pueblos.
"Hereabout they found two rivers, % of a reasonable bigness, upon the banks whereof grew many
vines bearing excellent grapes, and great groves of walnut-trees, and much flax, like that of
Castile. The Indians here showed, by signs, that behind those mountains was a river eight
leagues broad. §

Captain Espejo then returned to Zuiii. Thence he determined to ascend still higher upon Kio
del Norte. Having travelled sixty leagues toward the province of Quires, twelve leagues
thence, toward the east, they found a province of Indians, called Hubates, containing 25,000
persons, well dressed in colored mantles of cotton and hides. They had many mountains full
of pines and cedars, and the houses of their towns were four or five stories high. Here they
had notice of another province, distant one day's journey from thence, inhabited by Indians
called Tamos, and containing 40,000 souls. But these people having refused admittance to
their towns, the Spaniards returned; and following one hundred and twenty leagues down a
river called Kio de las Vacas, || united again with the Rio del Norte, and went homeward in
July, 1583. In conclusion, the author adds: "Almighty God vouchsafe his assistance in this
business, that such numbers of souls redeemed by His blood may not utterly perish; of whose
good capacity, wherein they exceed those of Mexico and Peru, we may boldly assert that they
will easily embrace the gospel, and abandon such idolatry as now the most of them do live in."

COUNTRY OF THE MOQUIS.

Miguel Vinegas, a Mexican Jesuit, in his History of California, dated 1758, states that the
province of Moquis joins to the northwest part of the kingdom of New Mexico; its inhabitants
had been wholly converted and reduced by the zeal of the Franciscans ; but in 1680 they
apostatized, and, after massacring the persons who instructed them, revolted, together with the
other Indians of New Mexico. The fathers, however, after inexpressible labors, restored tran-
quillity and religion in that kingdom ; but all their diligence could not overcome the obduracy
of the Moquinos, who for many years opposed all offers of their coming among them. In 1723
the viceroy was directed to attempt their reduction, and the enterprise was proposed to the
Jesuits. They could enter Moqui only from Sonora and Upper Pimeria. " Moqui lies to the
northward of the Missions of Tibutama, G-uebavi, and others of Pimeria; but the distance
between Tibutama and the river Gila is not less than eighty leagues, and all inhabited by
Indians, with whom, indeed, a friendship has been concluded, but the far greater part of them
are declared infidels. Next to these are the savage Apaches, implacable enemies to the Span-
iards, and all Indians connected with them. Beyond these are the Moquis, inhabiting an exten-
sive, but mountainous country. Consequently there was no direct way for the Jesuits to pene-
trate into this province; and therefore, the attempt could only be made either through the

• Mohotze. (Moqui ?) | Probably San Francisco mountain, near which are large ruins described by dipt. Sitgi v.-iv.

% Probably the Colorado Chiquito (Rio del Lino) and Rio Verde.

§ Rio Colorado, probably confounded with the Gulf of California. || Rio Pecos.

116

FRUITLESS ATTEMPTS TO SUBJUGATE THE MOQUINOS.

country of the Sobaypuris, or Pimas, now called Papagos, extending along the river Gila, to
the country of the Coco-Maricopas, who were professed infidels, and perpetually at war with the
Nijoras, selling their Nijoran prisoners to the Pimas, and these to the Spaniards." Nothing,
however, was done until 1742, when the order for the reduction of Moqui was renewed, and
Father Ignacio Keler, missionary of Santa Maria Suamca, directed to make the attempt. This
father, in the preceding years, had been several times as far as the river Gila, both to visit his
neophytes, and to keep up a friendship with the Indians, who were enemies to the Apaches. In
September, 1743, he set out from his mission with a very small guard; came to Rio Gila, and
continued his journey some days further to the northward, till he came among rancherias,
where a different language was spoken, and the people were quite unknown. By these Indians
he was attacked, and driven back to his mission.

In October, 1744, Father Jacob Sedelmayer set out upon a similar expedition from his
mission of Tibutama, and, after travelling eighty leagues, reached Rio Gila, where he found
six thousand Papagos, and near the same number of Pimas and Coco-Maricopas, dwelling in
different rancherias. These Gila Indians threw so many obstacles in the way of his going to
Moqui, that Father Sedelmayer was obliged to abandon the attempt. But, with consent of the
Coco-Maricopas, he took a view of the whole territory they inhabited on each side of the Gila,
went into the inward parts of their country, and returned from thence to the river Colorado
and the country of the Yumas, who were enemies of the Coco-Maricopas, though in all appear-
ance a branch of their nation, for the interpreter who accompanied the party sufficiently
understood the language of the Yumas. The accounts of Father Sedelmayer show that the
banks near the source of Rio Gila are inhabited by Apaches. At some distance below, that
river is joined by the Azul, which is thought to issue from the mountains, and water the
pleasant and fruitful country of the Nijoras till its influx into the Gila. Afterwards, on both
sides of this river, there is an uninhabited tract of about twenty leagues, at the end of which
are three large rancherias of Pimas, the greatest of which, called Judac, occupies fourteen
leagues of a pleasant, fertile country, well watered by means of trenches, which, the country
being level, are easily carried from the Gila. Twelve leagues further towards the northeast
(NW. ?) is the new-discovered river De la Assumption, composed of two rivers, namely, El
Salado and El Verde, which, in their way to the Gila, run through a very pleasant, level
country of arable land, inhabited by the Coco-Maricopas, who are separated from the Pimas by
a desert, though united to them in consanguinity. Their kingdom is bounded on the west by
a desert and mountainous country extending to the rancherias of the Yumas, who live along
the river Colorado, but below its junction with the Gila. Over the desert, the Coco-Maricopas
pass to the river Colorado, though there is a much shorter way by the conflux of the two rivers.

Across this desert they led Father Sedelmayer, who, it seems, did not visit the above-men-
tioned junction of the rivers, which Father Kino saw and named San Dionysio ; nor did he
know anything of the Achedomas, who, according to Kino, inhabit the eastern shore of the
Colorado, northward from that place. The Yumas are inveterate enemies of the Gila Coco-
Maricopas ; yet the two tribes speak the same language. On the western side of the Colorado,
there are likewise rancherias of Coco-Maricopas, allied to those of the Gila, and living in a val-
ley thirty-six leagues in length, and for the space of nine leagues remarkably fertile and
pleasant, cultivated for kidney beans, calabashes, melons, and other esculent vegetables, and
by their industry well watered. * ******

The Apaches are those within the circular tract of ground extending from the river Chi-
guagua, by the garrison of Janos Fronteros, Anterenate or Guevavi, to the Gila. It is
bounded on the north by the country of the Moqui and New Mexico ; on the east by the garrison
of Paso; and on the south by the garrison of Chiguagua. Within this circuit of three hundred
leagues, the Apaches reside in their small rancherias, erected in the valleys and the breaches of
mountains. The country also is of very difficult access, from the cragginess of the mountains
and the scarcity of water. According to some prisoners who have been ransomed, they are

REMARKS UPON THE APACHES.

117

exceedingly savage and brutal. They have very little cultivated land, nor does their country
supply them with any plenty of spontaneous productions. They are cruel to those who have
the misfortune to fall into their hands; and among them are several apostates. They go
entirely naked, hut make their incursions on horses of great swiftness, which they have stolen
from other parts, a skin serving them for a saddle. Of the same skins they make little hoots
or shoes of one piece, and hy these they are traced in their flight. They begin the attack with
shouts, at a great distance, to strike the enemy with terror. They have not naturally any great
share of courage, but the little they can boast of is extravagantly increased on any good success.
In war, they rather depend on artifice than valor ; and on any defeat, submit to the most igno-
minious terms, but keep their treaties no longer than suits their convenience. His majesty
has ordered that if any require peace, it should be granted, and even offered to them before
they are attacked. But this generosity they construe to proceed from fear. Their arms are
the common bows and arrows of the country. The intention of their incursions is plunder,
especially horses, which they use both for riding and eating ; the flesh of these creatures being
one of their greatest dainties.

These people, during eighty years past, have been the dread of Sonora; no part of which was
secure from their violences. * * * Of late years, the insolence of these savages has been
carried to the most audacious height, from the success of some of their stratagems, principally
owing to the variances and indolence of the Spaniards. * * * The Apaches penetrate into
the province by difficult passes, and, after loading themselves with booty, will travel in one
night fifteen, eighteen, or twenty leagues. To pursue them over mountains is equally dangerous
and difficult, and in the levels- they follow no paths. On any entrance into their country, they
give notice to one another by smokes or fires, and, at a signal, they all hide themselves. The
damages they have done * * in the villages, settlements, farms, roads, pastures, woods,
and mines, are beyond description ; and many of the latter, though very rich3 have been forsaken.

CHAPTER VII.

History of the Apache Nations and other Tribes, near the parallel of 35° north latitude.

In the historical library belonging to Col. Peter Force, of Washington, is found an unpub-
lished manuscript, dated 1799, giving what appears to be a truthful description of the Indian
tribes then inhabiting " the northern provinces of New Spain." It was written in the form of
a report, by Don Jose Cortez, an officer of the Spanish royal engineers, when stationed in that
region, and was doubtless transmitted to the King. How it escaped from the royal archives of
Spain is not known. But by some means it reached London, and thence was brought to the
United States, where now it very properly belongs. Those portions of it which follow, relate to
the region through which we passed, and will be found of considerable interest. The remainder
contains valuable information, and it is hoped that some individual or society will make a
generous contribution to literature by publishing the report entire.

The translation has been made by Mr. Buckingham Smith, now secretary to the American
legation at Madrid, whose name is a sufficient guarantee for its accuracy.

SECTION L

Territories occupied by the Apache and other tribes, to the northward of the province of New Mexico.

1. That the tribes of wild Indians who inhabit the territory beyond the frontier of the
internal provinces of New Spain may be understood with all possible accuracy, and likewise the
localities which they occupy, it will be necessary to define the lines that separate them. Those
that are known as the Apaches will be treated of in an article apart ; then others, commonly
called those of the north, will be spoken of as eastern tribes; and afterwards, others as western
tribes. In every particular the clearest statements will be given, from the most authentic
sources, and the knowledge that exists, omitting nothing that can be of any value in this
curious and interesting history. I proceed to treat of the tribes of wild Indians who inhabit
the northern countries of the Spanish empire in this quarter of the world, unfolding thereby
not a little that should excite admiration.

2. The Spaniards understand by Apache nation the Tonto Indians, the Chiricagiiis, Gilenos,
Mimbreiios, Taracones, Mescaleros, Llaneros, Lipanes, and Navajos. All these bands are
called by the generic name of Apache, and each of them governs itself independently of the
rest. There are other tribes, to whom it is usual to give the same name, such as the Xicarilla
Indians. Of them, and of the situations other tribes occupy, that have been seen to the north-
ward of New Mexico, we will speak in the second part.

3. The Tonto Indians (or Coyotero, which is a name they equally bear) are the westernmost
of the Apaches, and the least known to the Spaniards. On the west they are bounded by the
nations of the Papagos, Coco-Mar icopas, and Yavipais ; on the north by the Moquinos; on the
south by the Chiricagiiis and Gilenos ; and on the east by a country between the Mimbrenos
and Navajos.

VARIOUS BANDS OF THE APACHE NATION.

119

4. The CMricagiii nation takes its name from the principal mountain it inhabits. On the
north it adjoins the Tontos and Moquinos ; on the east the Gilenos ; and on the south and west
the province of Sonora.

5. The Gilenos inhabit the mountains immediately on the river Gila, from which they take
their name. They are hounded on the west by the Chiricagiiis ; on the north by the province
of New Mexico ; on the east by the Mimbreiio tribe ; and on the south by our frontier.

6. The Mimbrenos are a very numerous tribe, and take their name from the river and moun-
tains of the Mimbres.* They are bounded on the west by the Gilenos; on the north by
New Mexico ; on the east by the same province ; and on the south by the frontier of Nueva
Vizcaya.

7. The Taracone Indians compose also a very large tribe, and are believed to be a branch of
the Xicarillas. They inhabit the mountains between the river Grande del Norte and the Pecos;
are bounded on the west by the province of New Mexico ; on the north by the same ; on the
east by the Mescaleros ; and on the south by a part of the frontier of Nueva Yizcaya.

8. The Mescalero^ nation inhabits the mountains on both banks of the river Pecos, as far
as the mountains that form the head of the Bolson de Mapimi, and there terminate on the right
bank of the Rio Grande. Its limit on the west is the tribe of the Taracones; on the north, the
extensive territories of the Comanche people ; on the east, the coast of the Llanero Indians ; and
on the south, the desert Bolson de Mapimi.

9. The Llanero% tribe is very numerous, and has a great many warriors. It occupies the
great plains and sands that lie between the Pecos and the left bank of the river Grande del
Norte. This tribe consists of three divisions — the Natajes, Lipiyanes, and Llaneros. They
are bounded on the west by the Mescaleros ; on the north by the Comanches ; on the east by the
Lipanes ; and on the south by our frontier of the province of Cohagiiila.

10. The Lipanes form one of the most considerable of the savage nations in the north of New
Spain. They extend over a vast territory, the limits of which, on the west, are the lands of
the Llaneros; on the north, the Comanche country; on the east, the province of Cohagiiila;
and on the south, the left bank of the Rio Grande del Norte; there being on the right the mili-
tary posts {presidios) of our frontiers of Cohagiiila.

11. The tribe of the Navajo Indians is the most northern of the Apaches. They inhabit the
table-lands and mountains of the territory called Navajo, from which the tribe gets its name.§
They do not change their seats, like the rest of the Apache nation; and they have formed in
that country their places (lugares), or fixed habitations, known by the names of Sevolleta,
Chicoli, Guadalupe, Cerro Cavezon, Agua Salada, Cerro Chato, Chusca, Tumicha, Chelle, and
Carrizo. They are all governed by the captain, whom they respect, and whose appointment
is, in reality, subject to the approval of the governor of the province of New Mexico. They
are bounded on the west by the Moquinos, on the north by the Yutahs, on the east by the
Pueblos of New Mexico, and on the south by the Gilenos and Chiricagiiis.

12. The Apaches Xicarillas anciently inhabited the forests of that name in the far territories
to the north of New Mexico, until they were driven out by the Comanches, and now live >>n
the limits of the province, some of them having gone into the chasms (panadas) and moun-
tains between Pecuries and Taos, which are the last towns of the province.

* A Spanish word signifying willows.

f Mexcal, a spirituous liquor distilled from the American aloe or maguey ; the meaning of the name, probably, is drinkers
of mescal.

% The people ol the plain — from the Spanish word llano.

§ Mrs. M. H. Eastman, in writing of these tribes of the Apaches, says; "Their name is said to signify 'men,' a id to it
the Spaniards have, long since, added other words to distinguish the several tribes. These names arc taken from some ani-
mal, or from a feature of the country, or peculiar product of the soil which they inhabit and wander over. Navaj6, ii
Spanish, could well enough have come from navajo, 'long knife,' a name this people give to a mountain when on time is
obsidian, or volcanic glass, which the native inhabitants split into instruments for cutting. " Chicora: 185 I

120

APACHE LANGUAGE. — AGRICULTURE, ARTS, AND COMMERCE.

13. The Tutah nation is very numerous, and is also made up of many bands, which are to he
distinguished only by their names, and live in perfect agreement and harmony. Four of these
bands, called Noaches, Payuches, Tabiachis, and Sogup, are accustomed to occupy lands within
the province of New Mexico, or very near it, to the north and northeast. Beyond these, after
passing a country of more than two hundred leagues in extent to the northward, thence to the
northwest, other Indians inhabit, called Zaguaganas, whose number is very considerable.

1 ' ' % % ' ' % '" & if 4>

SECTION III.

Of the language of the Apache Indians, and of their physical characteristics.

1. The language which all the nations speak, that bear the name of Apache, is one and the
same. Some differ from the rest in their accent, or in having, here and there, a peculiar local
word ; but without this difference ever being sufficient to prevent them from understanding
each other, even though the territories in which they may have been born should be far apart.
The utterance of the language is very violent, but it is not so difficult to speak as the first
impression of it would lead one to suppose ; for the ear, becoming accustomed to the sound,
discovers a cadence in the words. It is to be remarked that it has great poverty, both of
expression and words ; and this is the cause of that burdensome repetition which makes con-
versation very diffuse, abounding with gesture. What is most remarkable is the sound pro-
duced at the same time by the tongue and throat, which the speaker impels with unnatural
force, that he may thereby render himself the more intelligible.

***********

SECTION VII.

State of agriculture, arts, and commerce among the Apache tribes, and of the iise they make of coin.

11 The genius of the Apache is little agricultural, and with the gathering of wild seed he
satisfies his present want; though some of the tribes, aware that with very little labor they may
subsist, by the exuberance of the soil, with comparative ease, plant the grain and pulse obtained
from us, and of which they are becoming fond. But among the hordes that have inclined
most to this species of natural industry, it is not the men who have engaged in it ; the women,
besides the duties already described, and the more material ones of carrying wood and water,
plant and rear the cereals, protecting them until ripe, and then seek others that grow wild.

2. The Coyotero Indians raise small quantities of maize, beans, and a few legumens. The
Navajos plant, in their season, maize, pumpkins, and some other fruits and vegetables, all
M'liich they raise in great plenty, and have store for the year round. The Xicarillas also plant
maize, beans, pumpkins, and some little tobacco, in the chasms {panadas) of the mountains
where they live.

3. Except the Navajos, none of the nations have turned their attention to the breeding of
animals, notwithstanding the wonderful facilities they have for so doing. They raise sheep
and cows in considerable numbers, and a few droves of horses.

4. All their arts and manufactures are comprised in dressing well the skins with which to
cover them, and to traffic in the Spanish settlements ; the perfection of this skill being greatest
among the Mescaleros, Lipanes, Xicarillas, and Yutahs. However, the Navajos have manufac-
tures of serge, blankets, and other coarse cloths, which more than suffice for the consumption
of their own people ; and they go to the proArince of New Mexico with the surplus, and there
exchange their goods for such others as they have not, or for the implements they need.

***********

CHARACTER OP THE CAMANCHES. — THE MOQUINOS.

121

THIRD PART.

SECTION I.

Of the nations to the east of the Rio Grande del Norte.

5|c jfc !^ 5jC if; j(c jf; if: J^C a)C

OP THE CAMANCHES.

2. The Camanche nation is doubtless the most numerous of the many people that are known to
exist in the vicinities of our most distant provinces of North America. They occupy a beauti-
ful and extensive country to the eastward of the province of New Mexico, and consist of four
hordes, known by the names of Cuchanticas, Tupes, Yampaxicas, and the Eastern Camanches
(Orientales). They are commanded by a general and a lieutenant-general, chosen from among
themselves, with the consent of the governor of New Mexico, and the approval of the corn-
andante of the internal provinces. Those chieftains are acknowledged and respected by the
heads of every settlement (rancheria); and every Cumanche* renders them obedience, such as
is permitted by his constitution and government. He listens with like submission to their
counsels, and conscientiously follows them. These people keep faith in treaties, observe truth
and hospitality, and their customs, in general, are not so barbarous as those of the Apaches.

3. These Indians are intrepid in war, bold in their enterprises, and impetuous in action.
They are at peace with no other people than the Spanish, and maintain a constant war with all
the other neighboring nations. The four tribes live in close friendship; their people form close
alliances ; their private quarrels never extend beyond insignificant disputes, and terminate where
they begin. Their interests are common, and they share in them an equal fortune.

4. In their intercourse with the Spaniards, the Cumanches show a sense of honor and the
most rigid justice. The traveller in their country is hospitably entertained, respectfully served,
and treated with the greatest friendship. At the moment of his arrival, they take charge of
his horses and equipage ; and if an animal should be missing at his departure, they detain him
until it can be found. If it should be discovered that the estray has been produced with evil
inclination, an exemplary chastisement is administered to the delinquent, in the sight of the
Spaniard. In this manner do the Indians behave to our wayfarers who journey among their
hordes ; and they accompany them on their departure with an escort, until coming to some
point at which they may be relieved by warriors, and have the guides of another town.

SECTION IV.

Of the nations to the westward of the upper part of the province of New Mexico, and of those of the

upper coast of Sonora.

1. The province or territory of the Moqui (or Moquino) Indians lies to the westward of the
capital of New Mexico. The nation revolted towards the close of the seventeenth oentury,
driving out the Spaniards from the towns ; and from that time no formal attempt has been made
to reduce them to submission by force of arms ; nor does a hope exist of its being accomplished
by means of kindness, which, on several occasions, has already been unavailing! v practised.
The towns in which they reside and are established are seven in number — Oraibe, Taucos, Mos-
zasnavi, G-uipaulavi, Xougopavi, Gualpi; and there is also a village, which has no name, situ-
ated between the last town and Tanos, the inhabitants of which are subordinate colonists to tho
people of Gualpi.

« The translator has preserved the original spelling of the names of tribes and villages, in which there are souio incon-
sistences, and a considerable difference from modern nsage.
16 i

122

DESCRIPTION OF MOQUI. — THE SERIS, TIBURONES, AND TEPOCAS.

2. The Moquinos are the most industrious of the many Indian nations that inhahit and have
"been discovered in that portion of America. They till the earth with great care, and apply to
all their fields the manures proper for each crop. The same cereals and pulse (semillas) are
raised hy them, that are everywhere produced hy the civilized population in our provinces.
They are attentive to their kitchen gardens, and have all the varieties of fruit-hearing trees it
has heen in their power to procure. The peach-tree yields ahundantly. The coarse clothing
worn hy them, they make in their looms. They are a people jealous of their freedom; but
they do no injury to the Spaniards who travel to their towns, although they are ever careful that
they soon pass out from them.

3. The towns are huilt with great regularity, the streets are wide, and the dwellings one or
two stories high. In the construction of them, they raise a wall ahout a yard and a half above
the pave of the street, on a level with the top of which is the terrace and floor of the lower
story, to which the owners ascend by a wooden ladder, which they rest thereon, and remove as
often as they desire to go up or down. On the terrace, upon which all the doors of the lower
story open, is a ladder whereby to ascend to the upper story, which is divided into a hall and
two or three rooms ; and on that terrace is another ladder, with which to ascend to the roof, or
to another story, should there be one.

4. The town is governed by a cacique; and for the defence of it, the inhabitants make com-
mon cause. The people are of a lighter complexion than other Indians ; their dress differs but
little from that worn by the Spanish- Americans of those remote provinces, and the fashion of
their horse trappings is the same. They use the lance and the bow and arrows.

5. The women dress in a woven tunic without sleeves, and in a black, white, or colored shawl,
formed like a mantilla. The tunic is confined by a sash, that is usually of many tints; they
make no use of beads or ear-rings. The aged women wear the hair divided into two braids,
and the young in a knot over each ear. They are fond of dancing, which is their frequent
diversion. For it, there is no other music than that produced by striking with two little sticks
on a hollowed block, and from a kind of small pastoral flute. At the assemblages, which
are the occasions of the greatest display, there is not a Moqui, of either sex, whose head is not
ornamented with beautiful feathers.

OF THE SERIS, TIBURONES, AND TEPOCAS.

1. The Seri Indians live towards the coast of Sonora, on the famous Cerro Prieto, and in its
immediate neighborhood. They are cruel and sanguinary, and at one time formed a numerous
band, which committed many excesses in that rich province. With their poisoned shafts they
took the lives of many thousand inhabitants, and rendered unavailing the expedition that was
set on foot against them from Mexico. At this time they are reduced to a small number ; have,
on many occasions, been successfully encountered by our troops ; and are kept within bounds by
the vigilance of the three posts {presidios) established for the purpose. None of their customs
approach, at all, to those of civilization ; and their notions of religion and marriage exist under
barbarous forms, such as have before been described in treating of the most savage nations.

2. The Tiburon* and Tepoca Indians are a more numerous tribe, and worthy of greater
consideration than the Seris; but their bloodthirsty disposition and their customs are the same.
They ordinarily live on the island of Tiburon, which is connected with the coast of Sonora by
a narrow inundated isthmus, over which they pass by swimming when the tide is up, and when
it is down, by wading, as the water then only reaches to the waist, or not so high. They come
on to the continent, over which they make their incursions, and, after the commission of rob-
beries, they return to the island ; on which account, no punishment usually follows their temerity.
It is now twenty-three or twenty-four years since the plan was approved by his Majesty, and
ordered to be carried out, of destroying them on their island ; but, until the present season, no

* The Spanish word for shark.

NATIONS THAT BORDER UPON THE GILA AND COLORADO RIVERS.

123

movement has been made to put it into execution. To this end, the troops of Sonora are being
equipped ; a corvette of the department of San Bias aids in the expedition, and two or three
vessels of troops from the companies stationed at the port of that name on the South sea. The
preparations awaken a great deal of interest ; and the force has grown to be so large that it may
be said, with positiveness, not one-third can operate ; and altogether there is reason to fear that
the Tiburones and Tepocas will not be finally dealt with in the way that it has been hoped.

OF THE PIMAS, PAPAGOS, AND C0C0-MARIC0PAS.

1. On the hither side of the Gila, and over the territory which extends to the boundary that
is considered to limit the province of Sonora, are established the Pimas Gilenos, also called
Pimas Altos. The nation consists of twenty-five hundred souls, who live in the towns of San
Juan Capistrano, Sutaquison, Atison, Tubuscabor, and San Seferino de Napgub. They are
social and much united. Their weapons are those common to Indians, and they are generally
at war with the Apaches, and some nation or other of the Colorado. They cover themselves
with cotton and woolen blankets of their own manufacture. They cultivate the earth, and
each proprietor lives near his field. They raise wheat, maize, cotton, and other crops, for
the irrigation of which they have well-constructed canals (acequias). They have farms for
the breeding of horses, sheep, and poultry.

2. The Papagos, a nation of four thousand persons, inhabit the country from the farthest
limit of Sonora, along the sea, nearly to the mouth of the river Colorado. They speak the same
language as the Pimas_, and dress after the same manner. They are made up of several hordes ;
their customs are alike; and in their friendships, as in their enmities, they ever accord with
their neighbors.

3. The Opa, or Coco-Maricopa Indians, as they are commonly called, live on the farther side
of the river Gila, near the river Ascencion. Their number is more than three thousand, and
they are divided into several hordes. Their language is that of the Yumas; they are of the
same character as the Pimas, and dress themselves like them. Without the necessity of irriga-
tion, they gather two crops of grain from their fields in the year. In all other matters they
differ but little from the Papagos and Pimas, with whom they live in great harmony.

SECTION v.

Of the nations of the river Colorado, and of those to the west and northwest of them, in succession,

as far as the coasts of Upper California.

1. The Cucdpa nation consists of about three thousand souls, is divided into separate tribes,
which are settled on the right bank of the river Colorado, from latitude 32° 18' upward. On
the opposite shore, and eleven leagues to the northeast, begins the Talliguamayque nation,
about two thousand persons in number. They are very active, of a clearer complexion than
any other people of those parts, and dress with much neatness. The Cajuenches, who arc as
many as three thousand, live in a delightful country, on the same bank with the Talliguamais,
and very near them. These three nations raise maize, beans (frijoles), and pumpkins in great
abundance, as they do also musk-melons and water-melons. The Cajuenches are accustomed
to fishing, and sometimes subsist altogether on what they catch. They are of a vivacious
nature, and amuse themselves with dancing, which is their chief pastime. They, as well as
the Talliguamays, erect their huts (jacales*) in the order of an encampment, enclosing them
with stockades to shelter them in the event of attack, and to prevent surprise by an enemy.

2. The Yuma nation, consisting of three thousand persons, is established on the l ight bank
of the Colorado. They are neighbors of the Cucapas, and their hordes, farthest down, begin

From the Mexican wont xucalii. a hut of straw

124 THE TAMAJABS (MOJAVES) AND OTHER COLORADO TRIBES. — THE BENEME' INDIANS.

at 33° of latitude. They are more civilized than the three nations which have been spoken of,
and raise in abundance the same productions.

3. The Tomajabs have an equal number of people, are settled on the left bank of the Colo-
rado from 34° of latitude to 35°. They are the best of the race that are known to inhabit this
celebrated river. They are not thievish, nor are they troublesome; but they evince a high
spirit, and, of all that people, are the most civil. The men go almost entirely naked, having
nothing on them but a kind of blanket or robe made of the skins of conies or nutrias, which
they get from the nations to the west-northwest. They show this disregard of covering in the
severest part of winter, declaring that by so doing they are made hardy — as, in fact, they are,
suffering hunger with constancy, and thirst for three or four days together. They are sound
of health, and of fine stature. The women possess more manner and grace than the females
of the other nations. They dress in an under skirt, and have covering like the Yuma women.
The language is very strange; it is spoken with violent utterance and a lofty arrogance of
manner; and in making speeches, the thighs are violently struck with the palms of the
hands.*

4. The Talchedums live on the right bank of the Colorado, and their tribes first appear in
latitude 33° 20'. They have the same customs as the other nations low down the river.

5. The Cucapas, Talliguamays, and Cajuenches speak one tongue; the Yumas, Talchedums,
and Tamajabs have a distinct one ; with the difference, that this last nation accompany their
speeches and opinions with the gesticulation and haughtiness of manner that has been spoken of.

6. In consequence of the information given by several father missionaries, from visits made
by them, at different times, to the nations of the lower part of the Colorado, representing and
giving proofs of the disposition and desire of all those Indians to have missions introduced
among them, a royal order was obtained that they should be undertaken ; but, before it was issued,
the principal chief of the Yumas, named Palma, came to Mexico, and, with many of his nation,
received the sacrament of baptism, and afterwards returned to introduce their desired missions.
These were established at the end of the year 1780, with the invocation of our Lord of the Con-
ception, and of Saint Peter and Saint Paul of Vicunez; but the natives soon became displeased
with those permanent establishments, and, before the end of the year, they destroyed them,
killing, perfidiously, four of the religious order, a troop of protection, and some persons in the
vicinity who were to have been the first colonists in that new country. The women and boys
were taken into captivity, but the greater part of them were relieved by expeditions set on foot
to punish their conduct. From that time, nothing further has been known of the nations of
the river Colorado ; and their distance from Sonora has not permitted them to commit any
injury in that province.

T. Journeying from the nation of the Tamajabs, to the west quarter northwest, at the end of
twenty leagues begins the nation of the Beneme. They are an effeminate race ; the females
little cleanly ; the dress no more than blankets of otter or rabbit skins. The territory they
occupy is a fine pasture land, and has beautiful forests. Wild grape-vines are in the greatest
quantity, and the plains are covered with hemp-grass. The people are very numerous, and
continue to near the coast. They are peaceful and kind to strangers. A common demonstra-
tion of their satisfaction and good will is to cast at the passenger many of the white beads they
get on the shores of the Gulf of California, and some of the acorns that grow wild in their
country.

8. On the ridges of the northwest of the Beneme, and about thirty leagues from where the

° Cabeza de Vaca, in liis wandering from Florida to Sonora, between the years 1528 and 1536, speaks of this strange cus-
tom as existing seemingly among some Indians to the east of the Mississippi river :

"At sunset we reached a hundred Indian habitations. Before we arrived, all the people who were in them came, out to
receive us, with such yells that were terrific, striking the palms of their hands violently against their thighs. They
brought out gourds bored with holes, and having pebbles in them- — an instrument for the most important occasions, and
produced only at the dance, and to effect cures, and which none but they who have them dare touch." — Nau/ragios,
chap, xxvii.

INDIANS BETWEEN THE COLORADO AND THE PACIFIC. — THE YAVIPAIS.

125

farthest of these people dwell, are the towns (rancJierias) of the Cuabajais. The greater part
are made in the form of a great square, and with two doors, one on the eastern and the other
on the western side. They are divided by arches made of the limbs of trees, which are usually
willow, and have a few windows on the interior, sufficient for the escape of smoke from the
several fires, around each of which a family lives. Sentinels are stationed at the doors during
the night-time. Throughout the country, wherever they have made their residences, the cli-
mate is very mild, the land rich, and covered with trees ; and what, at the first sight, is most
agreeable in these Indians, is the cleanliness of their persons, and tidiness of dress, in which
they greatly surpass those of the Beneme nation.

9. Twelve leagues to the northward of the last town of the Cubajai nation, and on the hanks
of a full river, begins the nation of the Noches. Their lands are very rich, are covered with
forest, and possess a variety of charms that only can be imagined. This people are very affa-
ble and kind. The men present a fine appearance ; the women are very cleanly and neat,
being attentive to their hair, and^ wearing an under skirt of buckskin and robes of skin. Their
favorite pastime is bathing in the full rivers of crystal water, which everywhere abound.
They likewise make use of the bath called tamascal,* which is taken in a subterranean room
covered over like an oven, and having a small door in the side or in the roof. When they wish
to take this bath, fire is kindled in it before they go in; and as there is no place of ventilation
but the entrance, profuse perspiration follows on the body in a short time, which is endured
as long as possible, and then they run and plunge into a river, where they thoroughly wash
themselves. From this frequent practice, it is to be supposed, arises their great cleanliness,
which distinguishes them among all the nations and tribes of Indians, and it may also be the
cause of that delicacy of person which unfits them for walking.

10. All that vast country comprehended by the Sierra Madre of California and its eastern
slope, and by its western as far as the sea-coast, is occupied by savage nations, in bands of
unequal numbers. The principal qualities and customs which mark their character are, for
the most part, those common to all Indians, with little exception, in a state of civilization,
without being so peacefully inclined or of so soft a nature. Some of them have been visited,
and others have been heard of, from the tribes of those regions who, at one time or other, have
held intercourse with them. These are the Cuneil,f who are on the borders of the port of San
Diego, and whose towns continue to the outlet of the channel of Santa Barbara; the Quemeyd,%
who likewise border on that port, and on the nations of said outlet ; the Tecuiche, who have
their hordes as far as the port of San Carlos; and the Teniqueches, who adjoin the Talchedums
and the mission of Santa Ana. The Cuneil and the Quemeya have each their dialect, and the
other two speak the same language with the Beneme. The Cobaji and the Noche have also a
language apart ; the former adjoin the nation of the Chemeque on the east, and the Noche on
the west.

11. In the wide extent of country comprehended between the Gila, Colorado, and the south-
ern part of the province of the Moquis, are many nations that have not been visited or seen,
as those have on the Colorado, and those with whom relations of friendship have been formed
in the mountains of California; but it is known'that many tribes do exist there, and are of the
most wandering character. The number of persons belonging to each of them is considered to
be very small ; but they are all Yavipais, adding for each an additional word to that given
name. Those that we have knowledge of, from intercourse held with here and there one, and
from the accounts that some of themselves have given, consist of the Yavipais-tepia, who have
their particular tongue; the Yavipais-mucaoraive, who speak a dialect distinct from theirs,
as do the Yavipais-abema, Yavipais-cuernom'ache, Yavipais-caprala, and Tiqui-Uopais. North-

« Temazcalli, a Mexican word for a small house built like an oven, wherein to take sudorific baths,
-f- These are now called Dieginos.

J At present written Commjd or Comoyd. The tribe is scattered from San Felipe across the desert, to the month of Rio
Gila.

\

126

NATIONS TO THE N.N.W. OF THE PEOVINCE OF NEW MEXICO.

ward of the river Colorado live other hands, which may he considered as one numerous nation ;
they are the Chemeque-caprala, Cehmeque-sabinta, Chemequaba, Chemeque, and Payuches;
all speaking the same language, with the exception of the last.

12. There is information, likewise, that to the northward of the last, are others settled,
called Gruamoa, G-uanavepe, Gruallivas, Aquachacha, Tapiel, Baqui-oha, and Gualta. Among
none of these nations, nor among the many that have heen found in the northwestern part of
America, has the smallest idea of religion heen ohserved, nor reasons for the suspicion of it
from any acknowleged idolatry, though they generally respect and distinguish those whom
they helieve to he wizards — a natural trait in the character of all Indians.

SECTION VI.

Of the nations to the north-northwest of the province of New Mexico.

1. The reconnaissance hy the Spaniards which has given the most light respecting the nations
that live in the northern part of America, is the journey which was made in the year 1*7 76 hy
the reverend fathers Friar Francisco Atanasio Dominguez, and Friar Francisco Valez Esca-
lante. After having seen an extract from the long diary kept of this successful expedition, I
had the good fortune to hecome acquainted with the Rev. Father Dominguez, a man of sound
sense, of great prohity, and acknowledged virtue. He states, with the naturalness and clear-
ness that arise from one incapahle of anything else than truth, that ahout two hundred leagues
to the north-northwest of the town of Santa Fe, in New Mexico, he discovered the Indians
called Yutas Zaguaganas, ahout whose several towns are three lakes, which are called in their
language Timpanogotzis, or Timpanocuitzis, of which the first is at the height of 40° of lati-
tude ; and continuing one hundred and twenty leagues to the westward of those lakes, that you
will arrive at the great valley and lake of the Timpanotzis, where live a people the most docile
and kindly of any of the many that as yet have heen found in the New World. The valley
begins at 40° 49' of north latitude: it has in the midst a very great lake; and into this lake,
besides receiving many brooks and rivulets, there fall four rivers that pass through the valley,
and water it at equal distances, in such manner that a rich province might be created there
abundant in all kinds of grain and in herbs. Much brotherly feeling was manifested by this
people, and a sincere desire to receive religion. They follow the chase, to supply them with
skins for their covering, and they make use of the flesh; but, with them, their greatest delight
is fishing, which supplies abundant food for their support, and without exertion.

2. Journeying from the lake of the Timpanotzis to the southwestward, and passing over
thirty leagues of country, another numerous nation is arrived at, the men of which have very
stiff and thick beards, that of some being so long as to give the aged who wear them the
appearance of ancient anchorites. They have the cartilage of the nose bored near the exterior
extremity, and wear in it a small bone of the stag, or some other animal. They look like
Spaniards, not only in the beard, but in their physiognomy. In docility and kindness they are
like the people of the lakes (lagunos), or Timpanotzis. They separated from the missionaries
with expressive demonstrations of affection, showing great feeling at parting, to the extent of
shedding tears. The name of this nation, in their own language, is Tiransgapui, and the val-
ley in which they live begins in latitude 39° 35' north.

3. The purpose of that expedition was to penetrate into several nations adjoining those on
the coast of California, to explore down the Colorado river, and to continue, by the way of Moqui
and Zuiii, as far as Santa Fe.

4. This narrative, affirmed to by two religious men of high character, and by others who com-
posed their escort, persons selected to go into those distant and unexplored countries, of which
nothing was known, is sufficient authority to disprove the assertions of some authors, who,
treating of the Indians, have set down the absence of beard as characteristic of the race, merely

REMARKS UPON THE EXISTENCE OP QUTVIRA.

127

because it so happened that those they had seen, or of whom they had heard, were deficient in
that respect. Although this certainly is correct in the greater number of instances, neverthe-
less it is true that some Indians have more beard than others ; and now we perceive that there
are nations that possess it as heavy and as long as it exists in any of the countries of Europe
where man is most remarkable for this peculiarity of physiognomy.

5. The same may be said of the existence of Quivira, with the grandeur and populousness of
which many have been deceived, notwithstanding that no one has been able to point out where
it was, or to find any account describing this civilized people of the regions of North America.
Nor is this all ; for on many maps that I have had in my hands, the famous city occupies a
determinate point on the globe, but the makers of them have omitted to put down the well-
peopled places in the midst of those provinces which we have ruled from the earliest time of the
conquest. I do not leave this question among the doubts of the celebrated Binaspore of India ;
but, with less casuistry, I venture to deny the existence of such a city, its having been seen, or
there being the accounts of it that are said to have been written. Let the minute diaries be
examined and read with care, that treat of the arduous journeys that for thirty years have been
prosecuted into those parts by the reverend fathers Friar Francisco G-arces, Friar Francisco
Atanasio Dominguez, Friar Francisco Silvestre Yalez Escalante, and several other religious
men besides, and by military heads, who have penetrated into those remote countries ; and
examine also the itinerary made by the Bev. Father Friar Juan de la Asuncion, in his enter-
prise among them of the year 1538, and the account of the march of the Captain Francisco
Vasquez Coronado made in the year 1540, and that of Don Juan de Onate of the year 1604 —
those early travellers who may be supposed to have made known the great city of Quivira ; and
after reading their accounts of the rivers they discovered, the distances between them, and the
directions in which they went, we shall come to understand that the river Balsas, they speak
of, is the Colorado of California ; and that the information they received of another river was of
that which we since know by the name of San Felipe, and the other is the Bio GTrande, of which
the Noche Indians and the other nations of that quarter speak. We recognise the same nu-
merous bands now living, as then, in those regions, dressed in skins and buckskin ; and doubt-
less the populous and walled Quivira must have been some town like those of the Moqui,
that has been destroyed with the facility that many of the domicils of those Indians are now
overthrown, or it may have been reconstructed as others in the same manner are, and whereby
the seven towns of that territory still endure.

PART IV.

!

EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE PROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

WAR DEPARTMENT.

ROUTE NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, EXPLORED BY LIEUT. A. W. WHIPPLE, TOPO-
GRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1853 AND 1854.

REPORT

ON

THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE.

WASHINGTON, D. C.
1856.

CONTENTS

No. 1.

GENERAL REPORT UPON THE GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS.

BY WILLIAM P. BLAKE,

GEOLOGIST OF THE OFFICE OF THE UNITED STATES PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATION AND SURVEYS.

INTRODUCTORY LETTER.

CHAPTER I.

OBSERVATIONS UPON THE MOUNTAIN RANGES AND GENERAL RELIEF OF THE SURFACE ALONG THE ROUTE.

Direction and length of the line. — Barometric profile. — Six principal chains crossed by the survey. — Sandia and Santa F6
ranges. — Sierra Madre — Aztec and Aquarius ranges. — Cerbat ranges. — Ranges along the Colorado. — Pai Ute ranges.
Bernardino Sierra. — Mogoyon Sierra. — Elevation produced by the volcano of San Francisco. — Table-lands, plains, moun-
tain slopes, and valleys. — Character of the eastern slope of the Anahuachian chain, near the line of survey. — Bluff borders
of the Llano : its extent and mean elevation. — Plain between the Santa Fe and Albuquerque mouutains and the Sierra
Madre — Its character and average elevation. — Table-lands and slopes west of the Sierra Madre — Extent west and north — The
slope on the west more gradual than on the east— Stair-like descents— General elevation. — Val del China.— Valley of
Hawilhamook — Its deep narrow character. — Plain or valley between the Cerbat range and the Colorado river. — Valley of
the Colorado. — Great Basin — Its general character formed by a combination of short ridges and slopes — Inclination of
the slopes, and their origin. — Plain and valleys bordering the Pacific.

CHAPTER II.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE.
From the Mississippi river to the base of the Santa Fe and Albuquerque mountains.

Alluvial formation of the Mississppi and Arkansas. — Bluffs.— Metamorphic rocks at Rittle Rock.— Tertiary fossils.— Carbon-
iferous strata. — Petit Jean mountain. — Dardanelle rock — Trap dikes. — Bituminous coal. — Fort Smith.— Poteau mountains
and Sugar Loaf.— Coal. — Carboniferous around Fort Smith — Coal in Arkansas. — View near Fort Coffee. — Disturbances of the
carboniferous strata. — San Bois range. — Coal at Ring's plantation. — Fossil coal plants. — Delaware mountain. — Carbonif-
erous limestone in ridges. — Proximity of outcrops of granite. — Delaware mountain to Antelope hills. — Gypsum forma-
tion.— Lithological characters. — Denudation mountain. — Rock Mary, and other mounds — Their origin explained. — Gyp-
sum in thick beds. — Dolomite. — Disturbed strata. — Cretaceous formations and fossils. — Accumulations of pebbles : allu-
vium.- -Antelope hills. — White sandstone in bluffs along the route. — Table hill. — Upraised sandstone near the line.
Bluff formation or loess. — Llano Estacado— its vertical cliffs. — Encampment creek — sections — Tucumcari hill. — Pyramid
mound. — Colored section. — Fossils. — Plaza Larga. — Degradation of the strata.— Cretaceous fossils. -Anton Chico. — Cafion
Blanco and Cuesta. — Galisteo. — Trap dyke and volcanoes. — Granite.

CHAPTER III.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE— Continued.
Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and the Valley of the Rio Grande del Norte.

General remarks. — Sandia and Santa Fe mouutains. — View of Albuquerque and the Sandia mountains. — Carboniferous lime-
stone.— Granite. — Fossils. — Relative positions of the strata. — Coal measures. — Absence of outcrops on the west side of
the mountains.— Metamorphic rocks. — Granite. — Trap dikes, at Galisteo and the headwaters of the Tuerto.— Resemblance
to ruins and walls.— Quartz veins. — Volcanoes and lava, Cerritos.— Plains of lava or basalt.— Bluff at San Felipe.— Sedi-
mentary deposits of the valley of the Rio Grande.— Bluffs and horizontal beds — Resemblance of the strata to those on
the Canadian.— Cretaceous fossils at Pablazon. — Sandstone and selcnite. — Probable cretaceous age of the strata in the
valley of the Rio Grande.— Alluvial deposits. —Soil of the valley of the Rio Gran ie. —Sand-dunes. — Valley of the Puorco.

VI

CONTENTS

CHAPTER IV.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE— Continued.
From the Rio Grande to the Colorado Chiquito'.

Coal along the Puerco. — Las Lunas. — Burning coal-bed at Cabolleta — Red sandstone strata. — Lava. — Volcanoes, San
Mateo. Blue clay and fossils. — Covero. — Lava stream. — Coulee. -"-Small crater. — Granite of the Sierra Madre. — Car-
boniferous.— Gueiss. — Limestone on the east side, at Campbell's Pass. — Summit. — Carboniferous. — Volcano at the south. —
Table lands west of the Sierra Nevada. — Mounds in peculiar forms. — El Moro, or Inscription Rock. — Perfection of old
inscriptions show the slow wearing of the sandstone. — Ojo Pescado. — Lava stream in the valley. — Lava covers the stream. —
Ruins at the springs. — Coal. — ZuSi and its vicinity. — Cliffs of white sandstone. — Curious forms resulting from weather-
ing.— Traditions of a deluge. — Fossils. — Jacob's Well. — Drift of pebbles of jasper and agate. — Puerco of the west. —
Fossil tree. — Red strata. — General view of the extent of the table-land. — Canon of the Colorado probably in the pla-
teau.— Valley of the Colorado Chiquito. —Red clay and gypsum. — Fossil trees silicified. — Drift. — Basaltic buttes.

CHAPTER V.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OF THE ROUTE— Continued.
From the Colorado Chiquito to San Pedro.

From the Colorado Chiquito to the Great Colorado. — Magnesian limestone. — Canon Diablo in limestone. — Similar limestone .
at other places. — Granite. — Older than the magnesian limestone. — Extinct volcano called San Francisco Mt. — Lava
streams. — Secondary cones. — Volcanic ashes. — Direction and extent of the lava streams. — Sandstone. — Bill Williams'
mountain, volcanic : its lava streams. — Carboniferous limestone. — Picacho, of granite. — Carboniferous limestone and
fossils. — Aztec mountains. — Horizontal strata forming a cliff. — Lava. — Cygnus mountain. — Aquarius mountains. — Gneiss
and metamorphic rocks. — Tertiary strata. — Trap dikes. — Valley of the Hawilhamook. — Cerbat mountains. — Volcanic
rocks. — Colorado river. — Colorado river to San Pedro. — Granitic ranges. — Great Basin. — Soda lake and Mojave river. —
Nature of the incrustation. — Sand-dunes. — Metamorphic rocks. — Soil of the slopes. — Cajon Pass. — Sandstone probably
tertiary. — Granite and metamorphic rocks. — Tertiary strata. — Foesils. — Recent elevation. — Bitumen and tar springs. —
Trap rock. — Alluvial.

CHAPTER VI.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.
Granite, Metamorphic, Devonian, and Carboniferous.

General remarks. — Granitic rocks predominate west of the Aztec mountains — Red or pink granite predominates — Principal
places at which metamorphic rocks have been identified : Iheir probable age. — Azoic. — Silurian. — Carboniferous. —
Relative ages of the granitic chains. — Anterior to and later than the carboniferous. — Tertiary or post- tertiary. — Ranges of
the same age not coincident in direction. — Devonian, uncertainty of its existence. — Carboniferous. — Of the Sandia and
Santa Fe" mountains.— General extent along the line. — Lithological characters. — Thickness of the strata. —Fossils.— Sand-
stone and coal measures. — Lithological characters — View near Fort Coffee. — Overhanging strata at Sugarloaf mountain —
Ferruginous sandstone. — Thickness of the coal measures. — Diminish towards the west. — Fossils. — Coal. — General obser-
vations on the carboniferous formation. — Disturbances of the formation. — Denudation. — Limestone of CaBon Diablo. —
Metamorphic limestone of Cajon and Tejon, probably carboniferous.

CHAPTER VII.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS — Continued.
Gypsum formation, Cretaceous, Tertiary, and Volcanic.

Gypsum formation supposed to be Trias by Mr. Marcou. — Absence of fossils. —Called gypsum formation by Prof. Hitchcock.—
Extent and boundaries of the formation. — Lithological characters.— Section at Pyramid mountain. — Gypsum. — Extent
and locality of the deposits. — Most abundant east of the mountains. — Dolomite, east and west of the mountains. —
Thickness of the gypsum formation.— Disturbances of the strata.— Uplift near San Antonio due to trap dikes.— Extend
in nearly unbroken strata from the east to the west side of ^he mountains. — Probable age of the formation and its
reported synchronism with the Trias of Europe.— Cretaceous formation.— Points at which it is identified by fossils. —
Cretaceous age of the Llano Estacado. — Of the plateau west of the Sierra Madrc. — Extent of the cretaceous along the
route. — Mineral characters. — Thickness.— Dislocations. — Mountain ranges older than the cretaceous.— Submerged in
part by the Cretaceous sea. — Reported Jurassic age of the Llano. — Tertiary. —Post-tertiary. — Alluvial.

CONTENTS. VII

CHAPTER VIII.

Coal, Building Stones, Gypsum, Metals, and Ores.

Coal most abundant on the eastern part of the line. — Coal along the Arkansas and Canadian rivers. — In Petit Jean and
Sugarloaf mountains, Albuquerque or Sandia Mountains. — AtOjo Pescado. — Canon de Chaco. — At Bellingham bay. — Van-
couver's island. — Cowlitz coal. — Bitumen of Los Angeles. — Building stone. — Granite and gneiss. — Limestone and sand-
stone.— Tneir distribution over the route. — Gypsum, its application in the arts. — Used for window-lights. — Gold. —
Old and new placers. — Resemblance of the deposits to those of California. — " Dry diggings." — New Mexican methods of
mining and washing. — Yield of the placers — absence of water. — Use of snow water. — Quality of the gold. — Bights in the
placers. — Mining laws. — Quartz veins. — Mines. — Gold in the Great Basin and Bernardino Sierra. — Armagosa mine. — San
Francisquito placer — Copper, load and silver. — Iron. — Salt.

CHAPTER IX.

DESCRIPTIONS AND NOTICES OP THE FOSSILS COLLECTED UPON THE ROUTE, BY PROF. JAMES HALL.

CHAPTER X.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

»

Granitic and metamorphic rocks. — Volcanic rocks. — Trap from dikes near Galisteo — Lava from San Francisco mountain. —
Stratified rocks and gypsum. — Limestone of Delaware mountain. — Magnesian limestone of the Llano Estacado. — Gypsum
and selenite. — Sandstone from the Caj on Pass. — Miscellaneous specimens. — Ores and minerals. — Copper ore — Gold. — .
Iron ore. — Hematite. — Absence of magnetite. — Coal. — Siggilaria. — Lepidodendron.

CATALOGUE OF THE COLLECTION.

No. 2.

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

BY ULES MARCOU,

GEOLOGIST AND MINING ENGINEER TO THE EXPEDITION, WITH A TRANSLATION BY WILLIAM P. BLAKE.

GEOLOGICAL ITINERARY FROM FORT SMITH AND NAPOLEON, [ARKANSAS,] TO
THE RIO COLORADO OF CALIFORNIA. ORIGINAL AND TRANSLATION

RESUME OF A GEOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE EXTENDING FROM NAPOLEON,
AT THE JUNCTION OF THE ARKANSAS WITH THE MISSISSIPPI, TO
THE PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES, IN CALIFORNIA..

I

ILLUSTRATIONS.

MAPS.

Geological map of the route.

Geological section from the Mississippi to the Pacific, with remarks by W. P. Blake

PLATES.

Page.

Section of Pyramid mountain •- . , 25

Carboniferous fossils — drawn by F. B. Meek At the end.

Cretaceous fossils — drawn by F. B. Meek • At the end.

• WOOl) CUTS.8

Petit Jean mountains — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen -- 12

Strata of carboniferous sandstone near Fort Coffee--drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 14

Sans Bois mountains — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen. 15

Columns of sandstone — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 18

Antelope hills — reduced from a sketch by H. B. Mollhausen 20

Table hill near Shady creek — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 21

Bluffs of the Llano Estacado — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 23

Remnant of stratum of sandstone near Laguna Colorado— drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 26

Albuquerque and the Sandia mountains — drawn by A. H. Campbell 30

Natural arch and column, Zuui — drawn by A. W. Whipple 41

Silicified trunk of a tree — drawn by H B. Mollhausen 43

Silicified stump and block— drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 43

Bluffs on the Hawilhamook — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 50

Banks of the Hawilhamook — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 51

Valley of the Mojave— drawn by J. C. Tidball, TJ. S. A 53

Bluff of carboniferous sandstone and shale — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen - 63

Overhanging ledge of carboniferous sandstone — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen 64

Dardanelle rock — drawn by H. B. Mollhausen . 66

SMALL GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS IN THE APPENDIX.

Hill of Dolomite and red marl W. P. B., from Jules Marcou . ■ 134

Section of the bluff at camp 42 do do 134

Section of the bluff of the Llano, camp 46 do do 136

Section of the carboniferous, Cafion San Antonio do do 142

Section east from Albuquerque do. ....do 143

Inclined stiata near Sheep spring do do 146

Section from camp 67 to camp 68 do ,.do 149

Section near the Colorado Chiquito do do 152

Section of the bluff, Aztec mountains do do 156

* All tbe wood engravings for this report are from the establishment of N. Orr 8c Co., N. York.

ERRATA AND ADDENDA.

Page 2, 8th line, for " seventy" read twenty.
Page 3, 1st line, for "southward" read south.

Page 14, 2d line under the woodcut, insert after inclination, ' ' except at one point. ' '
Page 14, 12th line from bottom, for " 15°" read 60°.

Page 14, 11th line from bottom, instead of "These are all slight inclinations" read With one exception thai are all slight
inclinations.

Page 16, 6th line from bottom, for " siliceous" read silicious.
Page 17, 3d line from bottom, for " siliceous" read silicious.
Page 23, 9th line, for "Zahara" read Sahara.
Page 37, 17th line, for "IrsoGardia" read Isocardia.
Page 42, 18th line, for "mountains" read mountain.
Page 47, 7th line from bottom, for "since" read west of.

Page 49, 9th line from bottom, for " across" read through. After "but" insert the line of the survey.

Page 57, 20th line from bottom, for " stata" read strata.

Page 60, 6th line from bottom, for " its" read their.

Page 65, 6th line from bottom, for " Estucado" read Edacado.

Page 66, 18th line, after "commencing" insert at.

Page 67, 10th line. Owing to an error in the copy of the translation of the notes, an inclination of 60 degree* recorded

by Mr. Marcou (August 9, p. 127) was overlooked.
Page 70, 26th line, for " gandstones" read sandstones.
Page 70, last line, insert " calcareous."

Page 71, 25th line from bottom, insert a comma after "line" and after "above."
Page 75, 9th line from bottom, for "get" read yet.

Page 76, 15th line from the bottom of the note, for " conchylieu" read conchylien.
Page 78, 5th line from the bottom, for " K. J. Murchison" read R. I Murchison.
Page 79, 9th line, for "Pitcherii" read Pilcheri.

Page 100. It should have been stated in connexion with the reference to the figures of G-ryphse Pifcoheri, that they were

copied from the figures published by Mr. Marcou.
Page 117, Nos. 7 and 8, for "rochenses" read rochcusex.
Page 118, No. 60, for " Lano" read Llano
Page 118, No. 62, for "Colorada" read Colorado.
Page 118, No. 66, for " variagated" read variegated.

Page 127, 3d line from bottom of translation, for J' pebbles of carboniferous sil ex" read pebbles of sStx, carboniferous.

Page 127, 11th line of translation, for "fifteen" read sixty.

Page 129, 4th line from bottom of original, for " ros trc" read rose tres.

Page 131, 23d line from bottom of translation, for " Neseouiien" read Neocomum ; also in 4th line from bottom.

Page 135, 25th line, for "plateaus" read plateau.

Page 136, 11th line of translation, for " Turritellas" read Turritella.'.

Page 137, 11th line of translation, and line 14 and afterwards, for " cretaceous" read Cretaceous.

Page 138, 7th line from bottom of original and translation, and also in the foot-note, for " Maichii" read Martini

Page 139, in the foot-note, for "arcou" read Marcou.

Page 142, 18th line of translation, for "lumachelle" read lumachel.

Page 146, 4th line from bottom of translation, for "stonestone" read sandstone.

Page 150, 8th line of original, for "Plateaux" read plateaux.

Page 150, 8th line of translation, for "plateaus" read plateaux.

Page 152, 17th line from bottom of translation, for " semi-recticulatus" read semi-rcliculatus.
Page 153, 3d line from bottom of translation, for "Encampment" read Encamped.
Page 154, 8th line from bottom of translation, for " reticulatis" read reticulalus.
Page 154, 25th line translation, for "on" read or.

Page 157, 25th line translation, for "Tertiaries inclining" read Tertiary, inclining.
Page 160, 2d line from bottom of original, for " protogene" read protogine.

Page 160, 2d line from bottom of translation, for "quartzose, protogine, and very tine" road and qmrtiosc, pro/ix/mc.
very fine.

Page 164, last line, for "quartenary" read quaternary.

2 G

ADDITIONAL ERRATA.

19, 18th line from bottom, after Gryphsea Pitcher! insert var. navia.

62, 12th " " for P. pustulosus read P. rogersi.

" " " " for T. roissyi read Spirifer lineatus.

" 11th " " for Millipunctata read Millepunctata.

" " " " for Spirifer musehachanus read Spirifer camerattis.

" " " " for S. pilosus read S. Kentuckensis.

' ' top, for Spirifer Pilosus read Spirifer Kentuckensis.
" " " for Millipunctata read Millepunctata.

9th " " for Terehratula roissyi read Spirifer lineatus.

13th " " after Terebratula, for Shwyd raad Lhwyd.

No. 114, for Productus pustulosus read Productus Eogersi.
" 117, for Terehratula roissyi read Spirifer lineatus.
" 118, for Millipunctata read Millepunctata.
" 119, for Spirifer musehachanus read Spirifer cameratus.
" 119 J, for Spirifer pilosus read Spirifer Kentuckensis.

63, 2d

101,
119,

Note. — The necessity of the changes of nomenclature in the references to the fossils here noticed are explained in one
case by the note on page 102, and the synonymy under Spirifer cameratus, same page, will explain the reason of the change
in that instance. The fossil referred to Productus pustulosus proves, on comparison, to be a distinct species ; and the speci-
mens referred to Terebratula roissyi prove to be Spirifer lineatus — these species resembling each other in form. Mr-
Conrad has very recently proposed for the narrow and much incurved variety of Gryphjea Pitcheri, (if it be indeed that
species,) the name of Navia.

No 1.

GENERAL REPORT

UPON

THE GEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS

BY WILLIAM P. BLAKE,

GEOLOGIST OF THE OFFICE OF THE UNITED STATES PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS AND SUBVETS.

INTRODUCTORY LETTER.

Washington, September 23, 1856.
Sir : I herewith submit a report on the geology of the route near the thirty-fifth parallel of
latitude, prepared, agreeably to your instructions, from the collections and notes of Mr. Jules
Marcou and other sources.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

W. P. BLAKE, Geologist of the Office.
Captain A. A. Humphreys, Corps Topographical Engineers,

In charge of the Office of U. S. Pacific Bailroad Explorations and Surveys.

CHAPTER I.

OBSERVATIONS UPON THE MOUNTAIN RANGES AND GENERAL RELIEF
OE THE SUREACE ALONG THE ROUTE.

Direction and length of the line.— Barometric profile. — Six principal chains crossed by the survey. — Sandia andsanta

FE RANGES. SlERRAMADRE. AzTEC AND AQUARIUS RANGES. -CERBAT RANGES. RANGES ALONG THE COLORADO. PaI-UTE

ranges. — Bernardino sierra. — Mogoyon sierra. — Elevation produced by the volcano of san francisco. — Table-lands,
plains, mountain slopes, and valleys. — character of the eastern slope of the anahuachian chain near the line of sur-
VEY.— Llano estacado. — Bluff borders of the llano. — Its extent and mean elevation. — Plain between the santa fe and

ALBUQUERQUE MOUNTAINS, AND THE SIERRA MADRE. ITS CHARACTER AND AVERAGE ELEVATION. TABLE-LANDS AND SLOPES WEST OF

THE SIERRA MADRE. EXTENT WEST AND NORTH. THE SLOPE ON THE WEST MORE GRADUAL THAN ON THE EAST. — STAIR-LIKE DE-
SCENTS.— General elevation. — Val del china. — Valley of hawil-hamook:. — Its deep narrow character. — Plain or

VALLEY BETWEEN THE CERBAT RANGE AND THE COLORADO RIVER. V ALLEY OF THE COLORADO. GREAT BASIN. ITS GENERAL CHAR-
ACTER FORMED BY A COMBINATION OF SHORT RIDGES AND SLOPES INCLINATION OF THE SLOPES AND THEIR ORIGIN. — PLAIN AND VAL-
LEYS BORDERING THE PACIFIC.

Before commencing the observations on the geological structure of the line surveyed by Lieu-
tenant Whipple, I propose to enumerate in a very brief manner the principal physical features
of the route, and to give a general view of the configuration or relief of the surface, based
chiefly upon the results of Lieutenant Whipple's survey, and the barometrical profile which is
presented with his report. For full and complete information on the topography and general
features of the route, reference should be had to that report. The following summary is in-
tended merely as an introduction to the geology, and as a guide to the location of the geological
phenomena which are described in the report.

The line surveyed follows, as has been indicated, the vicinity of the 35th parallel of latitude,
and extends from Fort Smith, Arkansas — a point nearly due west from Memphis, Mississippi —
westwardly to the Mojave river, and thence southwestward to the Pacific ocean, at San Pedro.
The distance thus traversed is 1,892 miles, and the route is included between the meridians of
94°. 26 and 118° 16'. From the Mississippi river, Fort Smith is reached by the navigable
waters of the Arkansas river. The valley of the Canadian, which is properly a continuation of
the Arkansas, is then followed for the greater part of the way to its head-waters at the eastern
foot of the ranges of the great central mountain chain of the continent. This chain is crossed
near Albuquerque, through the San Antonio Pass, about forty miles south of Santa Fe. Cross-
ing the valley of the Eio G-rande, the survey reaches the Sierra Madre one hundred miles west
from Albuquerque. This range is traversed near latitude 35° by " Campbell's Pass," and one
further south called Camino del Obispo ; and the village and ruins of Zuni are reached at its
western base. From Zuni, the valleys of the " Puerco of the West" and the Colorado Chiquito,
the waters of which flow into the Pacific, are followed to the base of the great extinct volcano
called San Francisco Mount, about three hundred and fifty miles west from Albuquerque. As-
cending over the lavas of this mountain, the line passes the Aztec mountains and reaches the
Aquarius range, which forms the eastern border of the valley of the Hawil-hamook or Bill
Williams' fork of the Colorado river. Crossing that range through Cactus Pass, in longitude
113°, the valley of the river is reached and followed southeasterly for about seventy-five miles,
then turning westwardly to its junction with the Great Colorado river in latitude 34° 17'.

Passing up the valley of the Colorado, nearlv to the 35th parallel, the survey again turns
1 s

2

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

westward, and the ascent of the numerous ranges and ridges forming the eastern rim of the
Great Basin is commenced. Crossing these at the end of the Mojave river, the Great Basin is
traversed along the valley of that stream and the Mormon trail to the Cajon Pass in the trans-
verse mountain chain, the southern prolongation of the Sierra Nevada, for which I have
proposed the name Bernardino Sierra. After this chain is crossed, the "broad and gentle slope
extending to the Pacific is reached, and the line passes the rich and fertile valley of Bernardino,
and crosses the valleys of numerous beautiful streams to the city of Los Angeles, and from
thence to San Pedro, its seaport, seventy miles distant.

The country thus traversed presents a great variety of surface and diversity of scenery. It
includes lofty mountain chains, isolated lava-covered peaks, broad elevated table-lands, fertile
river-valleys, treeless wastes, deserts, and broad alluvial plains, burdened with vegetation.

The leading features of the relief of the surface are well presented by the barometric profile,
which is the result of numerous and careful observations. This profile, however, being con-
structed to show the grades between each camp, for the whole line, and therefore being on a
somewhat circuitous base, and passing over the mountain ranges at their lowest parts, does not
give to us the most correct view of the relief of the surface along a direct line — a line trans-
verse to the axes of the principal elevations and depressions. It is a railroad and not a physi-
cal profile. This difference has been regarded in the construction of the geological section, and
the modifications which have been made will be explained when the section is described. For
the present purpose, also, this difference has been noted, and the succeeding remarks on the
physical geography are the result not only of examinations of the profile, but also of the
topography, as shown on the map, and, in part, known from personal observation.

I propose to first present the most important particulars concerning the mountain ranges,
then to consider the plains or plateaux and the mountain slopes, the rivers and their valleys,
and lastly some general observations on the combination of these leading features.

The parallel of 35° between the Mississippi and the Pacific ocean is intersected by five
prominent mountain chains or combinations of ranges, producing distinctly defined swells of
the surface, and these are separated by broad and equally well defined valleys or plains. The
line surveyed may be said to cross six chains ; the sixth, that fronting the Pacific, being nearly
coincident in its direction with the parallel of 35°. These chains may be enumerated in their
succession from east to west, as follows : First, the Sandia mountains, Gold mountains, and
Santa Fe mountains, bordering the valley of the Rio Grande on the east ; second, the Sierra
Madre, sometimes called Sierra de Zuni ; third, the Aztec and Aquarius mountains; fourth,
the Cerbat mountains ; and fifth, the Pai-Ute ranges, or the ranges forming the eastern rim of the
Great Basin, and separating it from the Colorado river. The last or sixth chain is the Bernar-
dino Sierra, of California. In addition to these lines of elevation we may add the prominent
elevation produced by the volcano of San Francisco, and which, although the line of survey
was at its southern base, produces a very striking modification of the profile, as if it traversed
a mountain chain. This, however, so far as the topographical indications show, is not the case,
and the elevation of that country shown in the profile is probably local, and not found several
miles further to the north.

In addition to the lines of elevation enumerated above, there is one which does not appear in
the profile, and which being contiguous to the line of survey, demands attention in this place.
This is the Sierra de Mogoyon, which was seen beyond the Sierra Madre, at the south of
the line of exploration, and which appeared to extend for a long distance nearly parallel to it.

Sandia and Santa Fe Ranges. — These mountains form the eastern border of the valley of
the Rio Grande, and are the first abrupt elevations met with on passing west from the Mississippi
river along the 35th parallel. At this point they do not present one continuous ridge, but are
much broken and are traversed by several low and open passes. The line surveyed extends
through one of these, and the highest point reached was 6,624 feet above the level of the sea.
These mountains are a part of the southern prolongation of the Park mountains. Further

RANGES OF MOUNTAINS DESCRIBED

3

southward they connect with, and may he regarded as the continuations of the Organ mount-
ains, which are also on the east of the Kio Grande, and which form the eastern border of the
Jornada del Muerto.

Opposite Albuquerque, the Sandia mountains rise with a hold and rather precipitous front to
the height of 12,000 feet above the sea.1 The precipitous face is turned westward towards the
river, while the opposite slope is much more gentle and gradual. The direction of this elevated
range is a few degrees east of north, and it does not retain this great elevation for more than
fifteen or twenty miles, when it breaks down into lower ridges.

Gold Mountains. — The Gold mountains rise about ten miles northeast of the northern end of
the Sandia range, and are of much less importance in point of magnitude and elevation. The
greatest length of their base is probably not over fifteen miles, this estimate being made from the
map of that region.

Santa Fe Mountains. — The Santa Fe mountains rise to the northward of the route, and their
southern extremity does not reach the line of profile. This range, however, appears to be
geologically the equivalent of the Sandia range, and some fossils in the collection were obtained
at Pecos village, on the eastern flank of its southern termination. This range is separated from
the Gold mountains by the valley of Eio Galisteo. It extends northwards with an increasing
altitude towards the Park mountains, from which it is separated by the Sangre de Cristo Pass at
the head- waters of the Huerfano river. Its elevation probably exceeds that of the Sandia range,
but it has not yet been instrumentally explored.

Sierra Madre. — The next great range is known as the Sierra Madre, and properly holds
nearly the same relations to the Anahuachian chain as those just described. Its direction, how-
ever, is not so nearly meridional, its divergence towards the west being greater than the Sandia
or Santa Fe mountains. This range has a very considerable extension to the north and south
of the line. Moreover, it is the highest point reached by the survey, and is the great dividing
ridge in that latitude between the waters of the two oceans. This summit of Campbell's Pass
was found to be 7,750 feet in elevation, and El Ganino del Obispo, by which the main party of
the expedition crossed, has an altitude of 7,946 feet, and the adjoining peaks were considered to
be from three to five thousand feet higher, and the general elevation of the highest points of the
range to be not less than 12,000 feet. The same range, or its continuation northward, is known
as the Chusca mountains, or Sierra de TunecJia, and was crossed by Lieutenant Simpson. The
ascent to the summit of the pass (Campbell's Pass) from the Eio Grande, or from the Puerco, a
few miles west, does not present any striking peculiarity. It is gentle and uniform, becoming
more steep as the summit is approached, the grade changing from 23 to 35 feet per mile, while
on the opposite or western side, the slope, though similar, has a grade of 19 feet to the mile,
and is somewhat longer. In this case, the abrupt descent, if it can be called such, faces the
east, the reverse of the conditions found in the Sandia range. It is most probable that this
range does not extend far beyond Fort Defiance, but on the south it is probably prolonged to
the Eio Grande, opposite the northern end of the Organ mountains.

Aztec and Aquarius Ranges. — These ranges are far to the westward of that just considered,
and although having a general parallelism with it, have no connexion, and are united with a
different group of mountains. The two ranges are also distinct ; but being parallel, and near
to each other, their mass constitutes one elevation, and appears as such upon the profile. This
is true of the portion traversed by the trail ; further south, the ranges are separated by a broad
plain or valley. The Aztec mountains are the first great elevation west of San Francisco
volcano, and from the summit of the pass by which they are crossed, the line descends to the
base of Cactus Pass, in the Aquarius range, and after a short ascent, again descends to the
valley of Hawilhamook, or Bill Williams' fork of the Colorado river. The elevation of A /.tec
Pass is 6,281 feet, and of Cactus Pass 5,182 feet. The Aztec range, south of the pass, reaches
an elevation of about 8,000 feet, and, north of the pass, has a table-like summit, presenting ;i

1 This elevation was determined trigonometrically by Lieutenant Ives. See Lieutenant Whipple's Report, Itinerary, p. 48.

4

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY- FIFTH PARALLEL.

gentle slope eastwardly. The Aquarius mountains are different in their topography, and are
irregular and broken in outline. Their average elevation is probably near 6,000 feet. The
trend or direction of the ridges is well marked ; the Aztec range trends north 38° west, while
the direction of the Aquarius range is more northerly, and thus the two ranges unite a short
distance north of Cactus Pass.

Cerbat Range. — The Aquarius range is separated from the Cerbat by the valley of Bill Wil-
liams' fork, which flows southerly for a long distance between these two ranges. This valley
was followed by the survey until it turned the southern point of the Cerbat range, and thus this
elevation does not appear on the profile. The same valley was followed to its junction with the
Colorado river, and there the valley of this stream was followed northward to a point nearly
west of the Cactus Pass, or from the place where the valley of Bill Williams' fork was entered.
The survey, in thus deflecting to the south, turned the southern end of a wide region which is
traversed by mountain ranges. The breadth of this region measured southwest from Cactus
Pass to the point where the Colorado was crossed, is about fifty-five miles. It is essential, in order
to understand the connexion of the leading features of relief of the region with its geology, that
the ranges or combination of ridges which traverse that space should be represented in their
relations to the others. If the profile accompanying Lieutenant Whipple's report were intended
to represent the relief of the region, the space which now exhibits a broad valley or depression
occupied by Bill Williams' fork and the Colorado, should be filled by the outlines of one or
more ranges equal in elevation and magnitude to those on either side. As we are without a
profile of these ranges, determined by instrumental observations, their outlines and elevations
can be only approximately given ; but as the space which they occupy was seen from both sides,
and the line of survey passed along and around their southern ends, the profile presented
with this report and the estimates of altitude may be received with confidence.

According to Lieutenant Whipple, and Mr. Campbell, the civil engineer who accompanied
him, the elevation of the Cerbat range is about 5,000 feet above the valley of Bill Williams'
fork, and thus 6,500 feet above the sea. Its direction or trend is nearly north 40° west, or
nearly northwest and southeast. It is probably composed of many ridges, with their trends
oblique to the direction of the whole series, and they appear to abut upon and to cross the river
at intervals, thus connecting with the Aquarius range on the other side. Their extent northwards
is not known, but the chain probably does not retain its full altitude towards the Colorado river.
It may, however, find a prolongation beyond this stream, and connect with the ridges which
bound the Great Basin on the east. The great range of the Humboldt mountains is found on
the lines of prolongation of the Cerbat and other adjoining ranges, if they are curved more
towards the north so as to conform to the trend of the ranges in the southern part of the Basin.

Ranges along the Colorado. — Beyond the Cerbat range, to the west, a broad plain or slope was
seen. This, in some directions, appeared to extend to the base of the ranges along the Colorado.
Captain Sitgreaves, however, who crossed this space between the rivers a short distance further
north, represents an intermediate range parallel with the others. I have, therefore, indicated
one on the map and section. The ranges along the Colorado appear to be much broken, and
some of the ridges trend obliquely across the river towards the northwest. At the point where
the Colorado was crossed, a high range was visible in the north along the left bank of the
stream, and the mountains on that side, at the crossing, appeared to be but the southern prolon-
gation of this range. Captain Sitgreaves, who crossed this range further north, found it to con-
sist of rugged ridges, and the highest part of his trail was elevated about 3,200 feet above the
river. A short distance below the place of crossing, one of the ridges impinges on the river
and appears to extend across it, shutting off the river towards the south, and thus forming the
southern boundary of the alluvial valley or bottom-land of the Mojaves. Another range
extends along the western or right bank of the stream, its southern termination be-
ing just north of the trail. This range forms a portion of the system which separates the
Colorado from the Great Basin. The valley of the Mojaves, or Ah-mok-aves, as they are more

PAI-UTE MOUNTAINS— BERNARDINO SIERRA.

5

properly called, thus appears to be bounded by three mountainous ridges. According to Major
George H. Thomas, U. S. A., who has been stationed among the Yuma Indians at the mouth
of the Gila, the name Ah-mok-ave signifies three mountains, and it probably refers to these
ranges.1

Ranges forming the eastern rim of the Great Basin — Pai-Ute Mountains. — We now pass in our
review to the ranges west of the Colorado, and within the limits of the State of California. On
leaving the river, the route immediately ascends a succession of elevated ridges which, by their
close proximity and combination, form one great swell of the surface dividing between the Colo-
rado and Mojave rivers, or, we may say, between the Colorado and the southern end of the
Great Basin. This line of elevation is highly composite ; it is not one great mountain chain,
but consists of many isolated peaks and short ranges joining and overlapping, and generally
separated by narrow valleys or basins. In passing over this mass of mountains, the short ridges
may be avoided by turning their points and keeping on the slopes; thus the profile along the
trail does not show the real inequalities of the surface of the range. There, however, appear
to be only three or four prominent ranges between the river and the Soda lake. The first, or
that on the right bank of the Colorado, is called by Lieutenant Whipple the Havic-habi, or
second mountain, while the others have not yet received any particular names, the whole group
being called the Pai-Ute mountains.

The summit of these mountains where crossed by the survey was found to be about 4,900 feet
above the Colorado, and 5,300 feet above the sea. The general elevation of the peaks does not
much exceed this ; they probably are not more than 600 feet higher. The two slopes of the
range are very nearly equal in inclination, or rather, there is little difference shown by the
profile. The direction or trend of this range is nearly north and south, although it is very
probable that most of the ridges are northwest and southeast, trending obliquely to the main
axis of elevation. The ridges along the Mojave river, according to my own observations, are
nearly north and south, and this is the trend of the metamorphic schist and slates a short dis-
tance northeast from the first camping place on the river after leaving the Cajon Pass.

Bernardino Sierra. — From the valley of the Mojave river, or its termination in the Soda lake,
at the western base of the range last described, the ascent of a long uniform slope leading to
the summit of the last range crossed by the expedition is commenced. This borders or fronts
the Pacific ocean, and is the southern boundary of the Basin. This is the chain for which I
proposed the name Bernardino Sierra in order to distinguish between it and the Sierra Nevada
and the Coast range, with which last it was in danger of being confounded for the want of any
other and more appropriate name.2 It forms the southern or southeastern prolongation of the great
chain of the Sierra Nevada, with which it is connected at the Canada de las Uvas near latitude 35°.
Its direction is, however, very different ; it deflects to the east and becomes nearly transverse to the
Sierra Nevada and to the Coast mountains, and makes a like angle with the chain which forms the
peninsula of California, and which commences at the peak of San Bernardino. This peak of San
Bernardino is a lofty mountain, with a rounded, bare and hoary summit, rising high above
the surrounding ridges, about one hundred miles west of the southern end of the Sierra Nevada.
The mountains form a continuous chain from this peak westward towards Point Conception, but it

1 On consultation with Captain Whipple on this subject, it became plain that this signification of the word is correct.
It was soon seen that Ahmokave is nothing more than a combination of the two dissyllabic sounds which have been ex-
pressed by Captain Whipple in the words Ha-mook and ha-bee ; the former signifying three, and the latter, mountains.
The origin of the word Mojave or Mohave has long been in doubt; but the general substitution of the letter j, for the h,
shows that it was regarded as Spanish. If we adhere to the most truthful expression of the two dissyllables or Bounds, we
should write Ha-mook-ha-bi instead of Mojave. As these three ranges arc not known by any names, Captain Whipple proposes
to call the principal range on the left bank, Hamookhiibl, the range crossing the stream on the south of the valley, (the
Needles,) Ascientic-Mbi ; and that on the west, Havichiibi. These names, although given provisionally, it being probable
that other Indian names for them will be obtained, will be used in the succeeding descriptions.

2 See Geological Report on the route surveyed in California by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, and Proceedings of America!)
Association, Providence, 1855, p. 223.

6

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

is broken at intervals by passes. Tbe peak is regarded as between eigbt and nine thousand feet
high ; and being the highest point in that region, it was deemed appropriate to extend the
name to the chain of which it forms such a prominent and well known feature.

The average elevation of the Bernardino Sierra may be regarded as 6,000 feet. The Cajon
Pass, through which the exploration was made, has, according to the observations, an altitude of
4,689 feet ; and according to those made by Lieutenant Williamson, in the month of November
preceding, is 4,676 feet. The adjoining ridges on the west are probably 2,000 to 2,500 feet
higher. The ascent from the Mojave river to the pass is very gradual and uniform, and pre-
sents a great contrast with the descent towards the Pacific, which is abrupt and short. On the
Great Basin side, the gradual slope of the surface reaches to the very summit of the pass ; while
on the other, the upper edge of the gradual slope is 3,000 feet below it. From the western base
of this chain, the line of the survey and the profile passes over a gently descending slope to the
Pacific ocean, and there are no intervening ridges of any great magnitude.

Mogoyon Sierra. — This chain, although not traversed by the expedition, is nevertheless so
near, and holds such an important relation to the line, that it is necessary to present a brief
notice of it in connexion with those just described. After passing the Sierra Madre, the Sierra
Mogoyon, or Sierra Blanca, were seen at the south, trending apparently a few degrees north of
west and south of east. They were, to all appearance, continuous to a point nearly south of
San Francisco volcano. Several streams take their rise in the range, and flow northward to the
Colorado Chiquito. Mr. Marcou mentions this range particularly in his notes, and in his
Resume. The strata appeared to flank these mountains, and to dip away from them towards the
north. According to the same authority, the direction of the range is " east east-south and
west west-north." The apparent direction or trend is very different from that of the ranges
crossed by the survey, and is similarly opposed to the direction of the mountain ranges south of
them. This fact renders it somewhat questionable, whether the nearly east and west direction
which was observed is not more apparent than real. The plotted notes and bearings to this
range indicate that its direction is not so nearly east and west as was supposed, and show that
the elevation probably extends northward as far as the volcano of San Francisco, which would
thus appear to rise upon a continuation of the same elevated swell of the surface. The few
notes and observations, also, go to show that the elevation at the volcano is formed, not by a
ridge or line of sharp erupted rock, but by a swell of the underlying strata, producing an elevated
table-land similar to that of the Aztec mountains.

This character of the surface is shown by the topography on Lieutenant Whipple's map. It
will also be seen, by inspecting that map, that the Mogoyon mountains appear to extend in a
curvilinear line southeasterly from the San Francisco volcano, and that the southeastern
portion attains a nearly due east and west direction. The explorations a short distance south
of this part of the range, on the Gila river, show that there the prevailing direction of the mount-
ains is northwest and southeast. It is possible that this part of the chain consists of many par-
allel and short ranges, trending northwest and southeast, and which, by overlapping one beyond
the other, produce the continuous appearance. This peculiarity is well seen in the Great Basin
and along the eastern border of the Colorado desert, where isolated ridges seem to form con-
tinuous ranges. The direction which is apparent in this range is, however, very nearly that
of the Bernardino Sierra, and the two chains are nearly upon the same parallel of latitude.
The almost rectangular intersection of the Bernardino Sierra with other chains should prepare
us for similar phenomena in other localities. I am, however, of the opinion that future
exploration will show the composite character of the Mogoyon Sierra, and that it is formed by
a series of ranges trending northwest and southeast, conformably to most of the ranges of that
region.

San Francisco Volcano. — The description of this great elevation was not given in its geograph-
ical order among the mountain chains, as it is considered probable that it forms a local uplift,
rather than a linear elevation. In the description of the Mogoyon Sierra we have seen that

SAN FRANCISCO MOUNT TABLE-LANDS AND PLAINS.

7

this mountain appears to rise upon a great swell of the surface which has an extension towards
the south, and yet is without the ridge-like character of a mountain chain. The line of the
barometric profile passes along the southern base of the volcano and over the broad streams
and fields of lava which have coursed down its sides and from its numerous secondary cones,
until it appears as if the great mountain itself was formed by such accumulations. These
accumulations of lava have doubtless modified the relief of the former surface to such an extent
that it becomes visible in the profile, but the great swell or rise which is shown, is unquestion-
ably over an extended uplift of the region, which, though possibly produced by the action of
the volcano, is nevertheless independent of the great cone, which rises to an elevation of 4,673
feet above the surrounding region, and consequently to about 13,000 feet above the sea. With
the exception of the Santa Fe mountains this is the highest summit in the vicinity of the 35th
parallel. This mountain has a wide base, and does not consist of one single cone, but is flanked
by a number of smaller craters or openings towards the east and south of the summit. Subordi-
nate elevations, called Mount Kendrick and Mount Sitgreaves, adjoin it on the northwest.

TABLE-LANDS, PLAINS, MOUNTAIN SLOPES, AND VALLEYS.

Having considered the dominant mountain chains which cross the line of survey, a glance
must be taken of the valleys and plains by which they are separated and above which they rise.

The approach to the Santa Fe mountains from the Mississippi is by a gentle ascent from an
elevation of 460 feet at Fort Smith to near 6^500 at the base of the mountains. To reach this
elevation a horizontal distance of about eight hundred miles is traversed ; and the rate of ascent
being nearly uniform, or but slightly increasing with the altitude, the slope becomes imperceptible
to the traveller, and the country over which he passes has the aspect of a wide plain. As the
elevation is increased and the streams have worn deep valleys, the slope becomes a vast table-
land. This is the character of the slope traversed by the expedition, and its uniformity is shown
by the barometric profile taken along the valley of the Canadian and Washita rivers. If,
however, we pass towards the mountains a short distance further south, or at a point where
the plain has not been furrowed by streams, we shall probably find that the ascent becomes
step-like and that a series of bluff ascents are reached, each one succeeded by a level area
higher than the last. These sudden ascents, when compared with the whole elevation, are so
slight that they become almost imperceptible when represented on a profile drawn to a scale
equal for heights and distances. The most interesting modification to which this broad slope
or table-land of the mountains has been subjected, is produced by the erosion of the streams,
which have eaten out deep valleys, and have, as it were, " blocked out" vast areas of the
surface. This slope, even along the Canadian, is characterized by the bluff-like margin of its
highest levels, which mark the limits of the desert-plain known as El Llano Estacado or Staked
Plain. These borders are not one continuous bluff, but are deeply indented and bordered by
outlying hills, remnants of the plain from which they have been severed by the action of
drainage water, and which are rapidly wearing away, so that the table-like summit will be
reduced to a mere point, and the elevation become a conical hill.

The Llano has a wide extent in the latitude of the survey. It reaches from the Sandia mount-
ains east about three hundred miles, being partly within the State of Texas,, and terminating near
longitude 101° 30'. It extends southerly towards the great bend of the Eio Grande, and was
crossed by Captain Pope, in his survey along the 32cl parallel. It also extends north of the
Canadian, but its limits in this direction have not yet been explored. The line of the survey
crosses a narrow part or projection of this vast plain between Camps 45 and 46 ; but the course
of the exploration being in the valley of the stream, the uniform elevation of the surface of the
Llano does not appear in the profile. For the purpose of giving a more striking view of tlu>
configuration of the plain, I have constructed the geological profile as if the line of observation
had extended over its widest part. The elevation of the portion of the Llano crossed over was

8

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

found to be about 4,400 or 4,500 feet, tbe camp on tbe east side of the bluff being 4,128 feet, and
on tbe west 4,207 feet. We may regard 4,500 feet as about the mean elevation of this great
plain. The mean elevation further south, according to the measurements made under the direc-
tion of Captain Pope, along the route near the 32d parallel, is 4,500 feet ;l but this result,
although the same as we have deduced from Lieutenant Whipple's observations, is probably too
high, for we have reason to believe that the Llano decreases in altitude towards the south.
Captain Pope's observations were made by the theodolite, and the altitudes are possibly too
high ; the results obtained by the barometer are deemed the most reliable.

Plain between the Sandia and Santa Fe mountains, and the Sierra Madre. — This plain, or
valley, between the mountains east of the Rio Grande, and the Sierra Madre on the west, has a
width of nearly one hundred miles. The eastern side of the valley is traversed by the Rio Grande
and the Puerco. The latter is a much smaller stream, but runs parallel with the first, and unites
with it several miles below the line of survey. From the Puerco the ascent to the Sierra Madre
is gradual, the grade being 23 feet to the mile. The surface of the plain is, therefore, not level,
but has the character of a slope flanking the Sierra Madre, and is not unlike that east of the Santa
Fe mountains. The topography of the plain is also similar ; the streams cut grooves, or channels,
below the general surface, and are bounded by bluff banks of horizontal strata. The barometric
profile follows the course of the Rio San Jose, which, rising in the Sierra Madre, flows west to
the Rio Puerco. It is interesting to note, that the long slope of this wide valley between the
mountains is turned towards the east, and in this respect it resembles the slope from the Santa
Fe mountains to the Mississippi. The average elevation of this gently ascending plain is about
6,000 feet, and it probably connects further north with the broad area of table-lands traversed by
the tributaries of the Colorado river.

Plain or table-land west of the Sierra Madre, — After passing the range of the Sierra Madre, an
immense expanse of table-land is spread out before the explorer. From this range to the volcanic
cone of San Francisco, two hundred and fifty miles distant, there is not a single mountain ridge
or sudden swell of the surface to break its monotony. It is a region of horizontally stratified rocks,
cut and eroded by streams as on the eastern or Mississippi slope. The descent here, however,
is towards the west, and is very gentle. The same or similar rock-formations are found on this
side of the great dividing range, and in the same horizontal position : the topography is conse-
quently similar. The erosions and bluffs produced by the head-waters and tributaries of the
Canadian, on the elevated plateau of the Llano, find their counterpart on this side of the mount-
ains in the Colorado Chiquito and its tributaries. As in approaching the mountains on the
east, the survey followed the pathway thus cut out by the streams ; so in descending on the
west, the expedition followed similar paths, cut by the streams which flow into the Pacific.
The extent of this wide area of table-land is not yet accurately known. It was seen stretching
out indefinitely towards the north, and doubtless is continuous, and of the same character, as
far as the head-waters of the Great Colorado, and Grand and Green rivers. The great canon
of the Colorado is also in this plain, and on the south it appears to extend to the base of the
Mogoyon mountains. For a time after quitting the Sierra Madre, the line of survey passed
over the upper strata of the plain ; then reaching the waters of the Colorado Chiquito, this
valley was followed to near the base of the volcano, where the valley was left, and the ascent of
this elevation was commenced. Thus the barometric profile represents a continuous and nearly
uniform descent westward for a distance of about two hundred miles. The slope of the surface
on this western side of the Sierra Madre is, therefore, longer and more gradual than that on its
eastern flank. The barometric profile in this case, as in the eastern slope, does not represent the
stair-like descents from the higher levels of the plain to those below, for the simple reason that
they do not appear in the valleys of the streams. In the profile constructed for the geology, how-
ever, this important topographical feature is represented. The lowest point of this slope reached

' See Report on the Geology of the route near the 32d parallel, p. 9, 4to. Washington : 1856. — [P. R. R. Ex. & Survey.]

RIVER VALLEYS — THE GREAT BASIN.

9

by the survey is at the base of the volcano, where the valley of the Colorado Chiquito was left.
The highest point on the level of the upper edge of the slope, a few miles west of the pass; is
"7,400 feet. The mean altitude of the plateau may he considered as 6,000 feet, which is about
that of the slope, or plain, between the Sierra Madre and the ranges on the east of the Eio
Grande.

Vol del China. — When compared with the vast region which has just been considered, this
valley is of little importance. It is a narrow depression west of the volcanoes of San Francisco
and Bill Williams' mountain, and serves to separate them and the Black Forest mountains from
the Aztec range. The direction of the valley is nearly northwest and southeast, being parallel
with the range on the west. The stream called Partridge creek, upon the map, flows through
it towards the south, and unites with a tributary of the Gila river. The barometrical observa-
tions were commenced at the sources of this creek, and continued along its course until it was
left to commence the ascent of the Aztec range. The lowest point reached was 4,867 feet, and
the width of the depression is about eighty miles.

Valley of Hawil-hamoolc, or Bill Williams' fork of the Colorado. — The valleys west of San Fran-
cisco volcano are entirely different from the broad table-lands found between the ranges on the
eastern side. They become more narrow and trough-like, the slopes on each side becoming
more abrupt and decided. This valley is entered from Cactus Pass of the Aquarius mountains
by a sharp and abrupt descent. The barometric profile presents the elevations along the
course of the stream southward, but the profile presented as the basis of the geological section
crosses the head-waters of the river, and thus the full depth of the valley reached by the survey
is not represented. It is bounded on the west by the Cerbat range, with which it is parallel.

Valley between the Cerbat range and the Colorado river. — This depression was seen from the
trail, but, as we have already explained, no observations for profile were made. The elevation
of the region is approximately represented on the geological section , and its breadth is probably
fifty miles. It probably corresponds in its general characters of surface to the slopes of the
Great Basin presently to be described.

Valley of the Colorado river. — This is the deepest and most rugged valley crossed by the survey,
and is the lowest point reached west of the valley of the Mississippi, and east of the Pacific
slope. It is bounded on both sides by rugged and barren mountains rising in places directly
from the stream, and in others leaving a narrow belt of low land or slopes at their bases. The
elevation of the river where it was crossed is about 350 feet, and the valley of course increases
in altitude towards the north.

The Great Basin. — On descending the western side of the Pai-Ute range west of the Colorado,
the southern end of that vast region known as the Great Basin is reached. That this portion
really belonged to the Basin, was determined by Lieutenant Williamson's explorations of the
Mojave river, showing that it was not a tributary of the Colorado, as had been supposed, but
that it became lost in the deep soil and sand of the lower part of the Basin. The general
characteristics of the topography of the Basin may be enumerated in a few words. It con-
sists of a combination of short ridges and ranges, isolated, but rising so closely together in
places, that a series of small local basins is produced between their sides and ends. The general
trend of these ranges is from north to south, so that they are ranged in parallel lines, or overlap
one beyond another. It has generally been considered that the surface of the Great Basin was
of nearly uniform elevation, and that it was like a plain or table-land. The point, however,
reached by the survey, or the bed of the Soda lake, which is probably the end of the Mojave
river, is very low, being only 1,116 feet above the sea, and very much lower than the average
elevation of the surface of the Basin. It is indeed the lowest point of the Great Basin now
known. From the Soda lake the valley or dry bed of the Mojave river furnished a gradual
ascent until within twenty miles of the crest of the Bernardino Sierra, when the road leaves
the river and commences the ascent of a gently rising slope, which terminates at the summit of
the Cajon Pass. This slope may be regarded as a fair type of those which make up the wide

10

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

surface of the Basin, which is, in fact, hut a combination of slopes flanking the ridges, producing
hy their intersection a series of basin-like depressions. The slope to the Mojave is perhaps
unusually well defined and regular ; but the same or a similar slope is found for the whole
length of the southern end of the Basin, reaching from Bernardino mountain to the Sierra
Nevada, and this last mentioned chain is flanked in a similar manner. The average inclination
of these gradual descents is not over 50 feet to a mile. In passing either up or down the Mojave
slope, the inclination of the surface is not very apparent, and becomes evident chiefly by the
appearance of distant objects. When, however, the observer stands on a distant point and is
able to view the surface at right angles to its direction of descent, the inclination is very appa-
rent, and is so clearly defined and regular that it invites the use of the clinometer for its
measurement.1

The surface of the Great Basin, unlike that of the great plain between the Sierra Madre and
the San Francisco volcano, is not formed of horizontal strata, which leave table-like areas where
cut by rivers or exposed to denudation. The materials composing the surface appear to be
derived from the adjoining ridges and mountains, and are laid down around them with inclined
surfaces, the coarser parts being nearest the elevations, while the finer materials are transported
further out, and the sloping character of the surface is thus produced.

Plain and valleys bordering the Pacific. — At the foot of the Cajon Pass, on the west, the country
stretches out with a gradual descent to the Pacific. The distance from the Pass to the beach at
the nearest point is about fifty miles, and by way of the trail to Los Angeles and San Pedro is
over eighty. Although this region is traversed by many streams, and there are local depres-
sions and elevations of slight extent, the whole, for convenience of description, may be consid-
ered as a continuous and nearly unbroken slope, its upper, margin being at an elevation of
about 1,300 feet, its foot at the sea being on an average seventy miles distant.

1 For further observations on the configuration of the Basin and the peculiarities of the slopes, see the author's report on
the geology of the route in California, surveyed by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson.

CHAPTER II.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OE THE ROUTE.

FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE BASE OF THE SANTA FE AND AL-
BUQUERQUE MOUNTAINS.

Alluvial formation op the Mississippi and Arkansas. — Bluffs. — Metamorphic rocks at little rock. — Tertiary fossils. —
Carboniferous strata. — Petit jean mountain. — Dardanelle rock. — Trap dikes. — Bituminous coal. — Fort smith. — Poteau
mountains and sugar-loaf. — Coal. — Carboniferous around fort smith. — Coal in Arkansas. — View near fort coffee. — Dis-
turbances of the carboniferous strata. — Sans bois range.— Coal at ring's plantation. — Coal-plants fossil. — Delaware
mountain.— Carboniferous limestone in ridges. — Proximity of outcrops of granite. — Delaware mountain to antelope
hills — Gypsum formation — Lithological characters. — Denudation mountain. — Rock mary and other mounds. — Their
origin explained — Gypsum in thick beds. — Dolomite. — Disturbed strata. — Cretaceous formations and fossils. — Accumu-
lations of pebbles; alluvium. — Antelope hills. — "White sandstone in bluffs along the route. — Table hill. — Upraised
sandstone near the line. — Bluff formation or loess. — Llano estacado. — Its vertical bluffs. — Encampment creek. — Sec-
tions.— Tucumcari hill. — Pyramid mound. — Colored section. — Fossils. — Plaza larga. — Degradation of the strata. — Cre-
taceous fossils. — Anton chico. — Canon blanco and cuesta. — Galisteo. — Trap dike and volcanoes. — Granite.

I. MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO DELAWARE MOUNTAIN.

As the operations of the survey did not commence until the arrival at Fort Smith, there are
comparatively few observations upon the topography or formation of the country along the valley
of the Arkansas up to that point. The geology, however, of the starting point of our descrip-
tions is very simple. We find along the Mississippi a broad area of alluvium, the surface of
which is but little elevated above the stream. It is a broad alluvial plain, with nothing to
break its monotony, if we except the numerous creeks with tortuous courses, bayous and elon-
gated and curved lakes, horse-shoe like, which mark the former channel of the river, and testify
to the ceaseless changes which are progressing from day to day along its whole course. A
great portion of the plain consists of low swamps, which become flooded when the rivers are
swollen, and then receive a fresh deposite of fine earth or clay. This alluvial formation borders
the Arkansas on both sides up to Little Rock, where the first exposure of older and harder
formations was found. A portion of the alluvial formation, however, is undoubtedly of much
greater antiquity than the rest, and was formed when the general surface of the country was
less elevated than it now is. This older alluvium forms high banks or bluffs which sometimes
abut upon the stream, but more frequently rise above the level of the plain several miles back
from the river. They are familiarly known as the Bluff's, and have been recognised by Sir
Charles Lyell as tbe probable equivalent of the formation known as Loess along the Rhine.
According to Mr. Marcou, the alluvium along the Arkansas resembles that of the Mississippi.
Its color is reddish-yellow, and it is partly formed of a layer of yellowish sand which is easily
washed away by the river from the more clayey portions above, and the course of the stream is
thus rendered very crooked. These deposites are very fine, and no pebbles were seen until within
one mile of Little Rock.

Little Rock. — The outcrop of rocks at this place forms a ridge raised about fifty feet
above the stream. According to Mr. Marcou, the rock is of a black color, schistose, metamor-
phic, and much contorted. He also mentions sandstone and quartz veins, having a direc-
tion E.E.N, and W.W.S. (See notes.) This is, probably, the trend of the ridge. Similar

12

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

metamorpliic slates were seen two and a half miles above the first outcrop, hut their height
above the river does not exceed ten to thirty feet ; and, again, four miles above, the slates* were
seen supporting strata of sandstone of carboniferous age in an unconformable position. Thus,
as Mr. Marcou observes, the uplift of the metamorphic schists appears to have been anterior to
the deposition of the sandstone. I find on the maps of Arkansas a range of mountains indicated
directly west of Little Rock, called the Washita mountains. They have an east and west
treiid, and are parallel with the line of elevations upon which Little Jean mountain is situated,
.md which will be presently referred to. It is probable, therefore, that the ridge of Little Eock
is a continuation of this east and west line of elevation. Mr. Marcou (see notes) states, also,
that a line of hills commence at that point, but they do not reach an elevation of more than 100
feet.

The formations of Little Eock were examined by Featherstonhaugh as early as 1834, and
were described by him in his report as " grauwacke," and he considered it as the equivalent of
that of the English geologists. He observes: "The grauwacke slate here is highly inclined,
and, dipping S. by E., is traversed by very broad bands of quartz ; no red sandstone is super-
imposed upon it at the river, but at a very limited locality on the bank I found a calcareous
deposite containing marine fossil shells belonging to the Tertiary beds."1 These fossils are said
to be of the genera Ostrea, Turritdla, Calyptrea, and Ceritliium. The same deposite is said to
be found three miles farther west in considerable quantities, and it was quarried there for
making lime. The same writer observes, respecting the "old- red sandstone," (probably the
Carboniferous,) that it forms ridges at a distance of about five miles from the town, which trend
about east and west. " The Mammelle mountain, distant about eighteen miles from Little Eock,
is an outlier of the same formation." " The southwest aspect of the cone is very imposing, and
bears a strong resemblance to a pyramid ; on approaching it, the whole facade presented a
lofty mural escarpment, about seven hundred feet above the level of the Arkansas river, accord-

PETIT JEAN MOUNTAIN.

ing to the computation I was able to make, with a broad talus at the bottom." " The southwest
edge of this pyramid showed the truncated beds of the rock standing at an elevation of 75°,
andin some places they were vertical."2

These elevated bluffs of the carboniferous formation are numerous in that region. One of the

1 Report on the elevated oountry between the Missouri and Red rivers, pp. 59, 60.
Ibid., p. 60.

CARBONIFEROUS FORMATION — SUGAR-LOAF AND DELAWARE MOUNTAIN. 13

most interesting, and which occurs on the line of the survey, is the elevation called Petit Jean
mountain, which rises from the south hank of the Arkansas, ahove Little Rock, to the height of
ahout 950 feet. This mountain, as will he seen by the accompanying sketch, presents a mural
face at its summit, formed by the denuded edges of nearly horizontal strata. It is well wooded,
and the alluvial deposites of the river are seen at its base. This elevation appears to be in the
line of trend of mountains bearing the same name, traversing Scott and Yell counties, several
miles west. Further west the same line of elevation is called Poteau mountains, and other but
parallel ridges are known as Dutch Creek mountains and La Fourche le Fave mountains, their
names being taken from the creeks which run parallel with them.

Beyond Petit Jean, another bluff called Dardanelle Rock faces the river ; this, according to
Lieutenant Whipple, is apparently 150 feet high ;x and still beyond it, an elevation called Mag-
azine mountain rises within three or four miles of the river to the height of about 1,100 feet.
Mr. Marcou states, (see notes June 19th,) that these carboniferous hills are sometimes traversed
by injections of trap in the form of dykes.

This carboniferous formation is found to extend uninterruptedly along the southern bank of
the river, separated from it by a border of alluvium for the whole distance from the Petit Jean
mountain to Fort Smith, and beyond it, to Delaware mountain, a distance of two hundred and
seventy miles above. The same formations are found on the north side of the stream. They are
mentioned near Ozark by Mr. Marcou, and again at Van Buren, opposite Fort Smith. The region
drained by Piney river, a stream entering the Arkansas from the north, and a short distance above
. Dardanelle rock, abounds in bituminous coal.2 Coal is also found at Little Jean mountain, and at
many points above, on the south side of the river. The coal of Piney river, according to Lieu-
tenant Whipple, is bituminous, and burns with a clear flame, and with little residuum. It is
easily obtained, and is used in blacksmith shops, in grates, and by steamboats of that region.

Fort Smith. — Fort Smith, according to Mr. Marcou, is located upon the alluvium of the
Arkansas. The hills of carboniferous sandstone, however, come very near to the river at that
point, and Lieutenant Whipple states that the " hill which forms the basis of the fort is of a
dark-gray micaceous sandstone in horizontal laminae, and rises about thirty feet above the water.
The river Poteau enters the Arkansas just above the fort, and at two or three hundred yards from
its mouth, at the landing of the ferry-boat, we find a cliff of carboniferous sandstone, with beds
of marly shales of a blackish color in the lower portions. (See translation of Mr. Marcou' s
notes, June 19.) The Poteau mountains are found directly south of the fort and several miles
distant. Just north oi them, and nearer the fort, there is an isolated mountain called "Sugar-
Loaf," nearly two thousand feet high, and which consists entirely of the coal-measures and con-
tains several beds of coal. (Notes, June 19.) Mr. Marcou also states that a bed of bituminous
coal, twelve feet thick, is found twelve miles south of the fort.

The formations at Van Buren, nearly opposite Fort Smith, on the north side of the river, are
sandstones of carboniferous age, and Mr. Marcou places them in the lower division. This
region has been traversed by Dr. George Gr. Shumard, who accompanied Captain R. B. Marcy
in his exploration of Bed river, and made observations on the geology of the country. He states
that the carboniferous sandstone is the prevailing rock between Fort Smith and Fort Belknap.

It extends northward from Fort Smith into Arkansas, and in Washington, Crawford, and
Sebastian counties is found resting upon beds of dark-gray and bluish-gray limestone. This
limestone is said to form, with few exceptions, the surface rock in Washington county. It is
charged with fossils, "and, in many places, beds of considerable thickness are almost entirely
composed of crinoidea." "The following are the most abundant and characteristic species:
Archimedipora Archimedes, Agassizocrinvs dactyliformis, Pentatematites sulcatus, Productus cora.
P. punctatus, P. costatus, Terebratula subiilita, and Terebratula Afarcyi."3

1 Report in 8vo., p. 12. For a sketch of this elevation see Chapter VI.
3 Report of Lieutenant Whipple, in 8vo., 1854, p. 12.

3Marcy's report on Red river of Louisiana. Remarks on the Geology, by Dr. G. C. Shumard, pp. 17!), 180

14

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

This limestone dips beneath the sandstone towards the south, and the sandstone forms hills
" rising sometimes to the altitude of a thousand feet above the adjacent streams." "The sand-
stone is often highly ferruginous, and varies in color from a light gray to dark brown. It exists
in heavy massive beds, made up of coarse quartzose grains, with intercalations of finer-grained
sandstone, occasionally beautifully ripple-marked. It corresponds in its lithological features
with that forming the Ozark range of mountains."1 Dr. Shumard observes, respecting coal in
these strata, '* that bituminous coal exists in almost inexhaustible quantities throughout the
county — Sebastian. The seams vary in thickness from a few inches to seven feet, and they lie
in such a manner that they can be wrought easily."

Fort Smith to Delaware Mountain. — With the exception of a short distance from Fort Smith,
where the line of survey passes over the alluvial deposites of the river, the route as far as Dela-
ware mountain is constantly upon the sandstones and shales of the carboniferous formation,
which, however, in the valleys are obscured or covered by recent alluvial or Tertiary deposites.
These carboniferous strata are found rising into hills along the route, and frequently abut upon
the river, and are worn away into bluffs, which disclose the lithological characters of the beds and
their horizontal stratification. Near Fort Coffee the strata are very regular and rise from the
stream stair-like, each terrace being covered with foliage.

STRATA OF CARBONIFEROUS SANDSTONE NEAR FORT COFFEE.

The strata, however, do not rest horizontally for the whole distance under consideration, but
are disturbed at several points, the inclination not being found to exceed 20° to 30°. This
amount of inclination was observed at one locality only, between Camps No. 8 and No. 9, and
directly north of the Sans Bois mountains. On Gaines' creek the inclination is 15° ; between
Camps 11 and 12 it is from 10° to 15°, N.E. and S.W. ; between 14 and 15, 15°, E.E.S. ; and
between camps 15 aud 16, 15°, W.W.S. (See Mr. Marcou's notes.) These are all slight incli-
nations, and do not indicate a very violent disturbance of the beds. The prevailing trend,
according to Mr. Marcou's observations, appears to be a little north of east and south of west,
corresponding with the trend of the Petit Jean and Poteau mountains.

These mountains of stratified sandstone and shale constitute the most prominent feature of
that region, where broad prairies or heavily-timbered alluvial plains predominate.

The Sans Bois mountains rise to a height of about 2,000 feet, above a heavily-timbered plain ;
and, as their name indicates, are nearly or quite without trees. Their characteristics and gen-
eral appearance are shown in the accompanying sketch, by Mr. Mollhausen, taken from the top
of an elevation at Pine Grove, near Camp 6. The whole valley between the point of view and
the mountains is densely timbered.

1 Shumanl, in Marcy's Report, p. 180.

15

CARBONIFEROUS — FORT SMITH TO DELAWARE MOUNTAIN.

Lieutenant Simpson, who traversed this region along the Canadian in 1849, makes the fol-
lowing general observations on its surface : " Beginning at Fort Smith, a mixed country, well
watered, composed of wooded heights, wooded plains, and wooded ridges, intermingled with

SANS BOIS MOUNTAINS

prairies, some gently rolling some more highly, some of small extent some of large, and all
generally elongated in the direction of the route and lying between encroaching and parallelly
disposed secondary mountain heights, characterizes the country as far as Delaware mount, a
distance of one hundred and forty-six miles." 1

Coal of good quality appears to be abundant over this section of the line. At Mr. King's
plantation, near Camp 1, a well forty feet in depth crossed a coal-bed three feet thick. (See
notes.) Coal is also found cropping out at several points along the Sans Bois and Coal creeks.
Lieutenant Simpson mentions its occurrence on Coal creek, to which it owes its name. 2 Near
Camp 7 it was found in horizontal beds. Characteristic coal-plants, fossilized, were found in
the beds of the brooks, such as Equisetum giganteum, (August 2,) Sigillaria, (July 19,) and
again (August 7) between Camps 12 and 13. This last specimen is in the collection, No. 99,
and is described subsequently.

On approaching Delaware mountain Mr. Marcou found, in the bed of Little river, sandstones
filled with « fossils of the lower carboniferous, such as Bellerophon, Crinoids, Productus. and
bivalves." (Notes, August 13.) Similar fossils were found in the creek at Camp No 17, and
hence he concludes that the region of the coal-measures gives place to that of the Lower Carbon-
iferous between Shawnee valley and Shawnee village.

' Report of Lieiitenant Simpson, of the route from Fort Smith to Santa W4, page 4
s Ibid.

16

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

Delaware Mountain. — The elevation called Delaware Mount appears to constitute a dividing
line between the wooded prairies of the coal formation and a treeless, undulating prairie
beyond. The only information respecting the geological character of this mountain is given by
Mr. Marcou, and the following description is gleaned from his notes.

The mountain is almost wholly formed of limestone, with alternations of sandstone. This
limestone has a whitish-gray color ; it is very hard, and breaks with a subconchoidal fracture ;
it is very regularly stratified, and separates readily when exposed to the air. It appears to be
the Mountain limestone or Lower Carboniferous, and contains stalks of crinoids, and a bed of
sandstone contains Terebratula and Polypi. These strata are not horizontal ; they are upheaved,
and at Camp No. 19 they dip towards the north. The direction of the mount is said to be
S.S.W., or 30° west, to N.N.E. ; whether this is the direction of the ridge or the trend of the
strata does not clearly appear, nor is the angle of dip stated. This limestone formation appears
to have been continuous for some distance beyond Camp No. 19, for hills of it with some sand-
stone beds were constantly passed, (August 16.) The whole series is said to have a thickness of
from five to six hundred feet. I learn from Captain R. B. Marcy that the mountains or ridge
directly south of Fort Arbuckle, and which is southwest of Delaware mount, is formed of
thickly-bedded limestone. 1 Similar limestone is found a short distance further east, on the
opposite side of the Washita river, and directly south of Delaware mountain. Still further
east is another outcrop of limestone, which is mentioned by Dr. George Gr. Shumard, and is
represented upon a geological section accompanying Marcy's report. By the assistance o
Captain Marcy, I have been enabled to locate this outcrop of limestone on the map. These out-
crops of limestone are disposed in nearly a straight line, trending east and west, and parallel
with the several ranges of hills south of the Canadian, which have already been mentioned.
Some of these ranges, or others just south of them, are called upon Captain Marcy's map,
Kimishi and Seven Devils mountains. The former name and locality is already familiar to most
geologists as the locality from which the Cretaceous fossil called Gryphea Pitcheri by Dr. Mor-
ton was first obtained. These ranges, prolonged in the direction of their trend, would reach
the granitic and metamorphic region of the hot springs of Arkansas, and if the line deflected
but a few degrees to the north of east would intersect Little Rock.

Dr. Shumard found an outcrop of granite between the limestone last referred to and Fort
Washita. This. I learn from Captain Marcy, is about two miles south of Boggy Depot.
He also informs me that large boulders or masses of granite are found on the banks and in
the bed of the Washita, jast above and below the old Caddo villages, a point directly west of
the granite near Boggy Depot. From these facts I conclude that there is an axis of granite
and metamorphic rocks trending nearly parallel with the course of the Canadian and Red
rivers, or a few degrees north of east and south of west. From this axis the carboniferous
limestone and coal measures dip each way at small angles of inclination. Delaware mountain
may be regarded as one of the ridges of this line of upheaval. The trends and dips of the
strata of the carboniferous sandstone between Delaware mount and Fort Smith, as observed by
Mr. Marcou, conform to the direction of this line of upheaval.

Mr. Marcou several times mentions finding strata of brecciated sandstone, which I conclude,
from his descriptions, are of comparatively recent origin. Near Camp No. 16 he found a bed
of brecciated sandstone containing little angular pebbles of white clay and limestone. Again,
in the creeks between Camps 17 and 18, beds of sandstone with siliceous and ferruginous
breccias or conglomerates of white sandstone, without fossils, were seen. Half-way between
Camps 19 and 20 a calcareous conglomerate, like naglejlue, was passed. This appeared to
have been formed from the wrecks of the surrounding rocks.

In these several localities the strata were without fossils, and thus we are without the means
of determining their age.

1 Marcy's Report, page 180.

GYPSUM FORMATION — TABLE-MOUNDS — ROCK MARY.

17

II. FROM DELAWARE MOUNTAIN TO THE ANTELOPE HILLS.

After passing Delaware mount, the hills of sandstone and shales, which, hefore reaching the
mountains, were always in view underfoot or at the south, are no longer visible ; and the
country becomes an undulating plain, covered with grass. Here the vast deposites of red sand-
stones, red clays, and marls containing beds of gypsum, commence and extend without inter-
ruption or change over the entire section under consideration, and beyond to the mountains of
Santa Fe.

Mr. Marcou considers this formation to be the equivalent of the formation known as the new-red
sandstone, or Trias, and has so named and described it in his notes and Besume. The same
formation was traversed by Captain Marcy in his exploration of Eed river ; and Dr. Hitchcock,
in describing his specimens and reporting on the geology of his route, does not assign its age,
but calls it the " gypsum formation ;" and I shall frequently use this name in the following
descriptions.

As the mineral characters and appearance of the formation, as it was seen during each day's
march, are very minutely given by Mr. Marcou in his notes, I refer to them for the details ;
but present here the description of some of the most interesting points along the line where
the characters of the formation are well represented.

Immediately after leaving Delaware mountain, Mr. Marcou mentions passing hard, blue
clays and fragments of gypsum. Between Camps No. 20 and No. 21, blue clays, overlying
gypsum, and a coarse-grained and feldspathic sandstone, were traversed ; and between Camps
21 and 22, blue clays overlying red sandy clay, and white shales, were seen. These strata were
horizontal. Between Camps 22 and 23, red clays were found, overlaid by a sandy, red brecciated
limestone, passing into a reddish grey sandstone ; the strata dipping to the west-southwest at
an angle of from five to ten degrees. At Camp 23, red sandstones, alternating with grey, were
found. Fragments of gypsum became abundant beyond Camp 26.

Mounds and columns of sandstone. — Denudation mountain, at Camp 29, is formed of horizontal
strata, and results from the washing away of the surrounding country.

Bock Mary is of similar origin. This- a well-known land-mark, and is a striking and inter-
esting object to the traveller on the monotonous plains. Bock Mary owes its name to Lieutenant
Simpson, who describes it in his report of 1850. He remarks : " The rock is situated solitarily
in a prairie plain ; its height some sixty feet, its base some two hundred feet in diameter.
In form it is like a pound-cake well puffed up, and partially broken at its centre. Two turret-
like projections are seen protruding from its top. In substance it is an unstratified sandstone,
of a red color. In surface it is spirally corrugated, and in places somewhat gnarled, owing to
the degradation caused by atmospheric and aqueous agents. During the latter part of our
journey a number of these hills have been seen. Besides the one just mentioned, I ascended
two others, one of them being about one hundred feet high. These two last have calcareous
rock in association with red sandstone. On one of these, of abutment shape, I noticed amor-
phous red sandstone to be the basis rock ; next in the ascending series, five feet of red shale,
purely schistose ; next, three feet of arenaceous limestone ; and lastly, crowning the other forma-
tions, calcareous rock of massive character, containing crystals of carbonate of lime."1

Mr. Marcou mentions eight or ten great cones truncated at the summit, and from 60 to 100
feet high. The strata are horizontal, and thick strata of red sandstone predominate,, with
alternations of red shales more argillaceous and separating in thin leaves. Two or three beds
of a siliceous limestone occur at the upper part, of a whitish grey color, very hard, and which
has preserved the lower strata from denudation, forming natural mounds. This is a translation
of Mr. Marcou' s description.

1 Simpson's report of the route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe", p. 8.

3 t

18

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

A group of these remnants of a higher plain, forming a colonnade of sandstone so regular
that it seemed a work of art, was sketched by Mr. Mollhausen, and I present it as a fine example
of the effects of degradation of horizontal strata.

COLUMNS OF SANDSTONE, SOUTH BANK OF THE CANADIAN RIVER.

The geologist does not need to he informed of the origin of these singular mounds and
columns of rock, hut as they are objects of wonder to many travellers and excite many fanciful
speculations, the following explanation is presented : These mounds were originally connected
together by a continuation of their horizontal strata so as to form a plain or table-land. By
the action of streams and drainage water, deep ravines have been excavated in various direc-
tions, and a large part of the plain has been washed away, leaving a remnant of the strata,
the flat- topped mounds or columns here and there.

Gypsum. — At Camp No. 30 a bed of white gypsum, twenty-five feet thick, was found in the
bank of the creek. It rested on sandstone and shales, and above it a bed of dolomite was seen.
The following is the succession of the beds, with the thickness of the exposures :

Argillaceous dolomite 6 feet.

White gypsum 25 "

Sandstone and argillaceous shales and red clay 10 "

Beyond this point, beds of gypsum 25 to 30 feet thick were found interstratified with sand-
stone. The bed exposed in the section dips to the north at an angle of 15° near Camp 31.
This region in the vicinity of Camps 30 and 31 appears to have been exceedingly rich in
gypsum. The majority of the specimens in the collection are from this vicinity — from Gypsum
and Comet creeks. These specimens are both red and white. See catalogue and descriptions
Nos. 71 and 74 to 81.

Gypsum was again found in quantity between Camps 33 and 34. It is white and rose-

»

CKETACEOUS FOSSILS ALLUVIAL DEPOSITES. 19

colored, and the beds are from one to twenty feet thick. A thin argillaceous dolomite is found
below them. Thus it is seen that the strata along this part of the route are mainly composed
of marls and sandstones of various colors — the red predominating — and of intercalated gypsum
with beds of argillaceous dolomite. The latter are, however, quite thin, the bed mentioned in
the section being only six feet thick. These strata are in the main horizontal, but at some
localities have inclinations of from 10° to 15°, the line of trend being nearly east and west.
This angle of dip corresponds with those observed in the sandstones east of Delaware mount-
ain, and it is probable that they may be referred to the same line or axis of elevation. Up-
raised sandstone strata dipping at an angle of 30° to 40° were seen by Dr. Shumard several
miles further west of these localities. It should also be observed that the Witchita mountains,
which are composed of granite and greenstone, rise about forty miles southwest of Camp 31.

Under date of September 1st, we find in Mr. Marcou's notes the following record : 11 About
two miles southwest of Camp No. 31 we find at the summit, and sometimes half way up the
hills of red sandstone and clays, three or four broken beds and crinoids [?] disseminated here and
there as if the ruins were formed of a lumachelle limestone of Neocomian age. This lumachelle
is formed by the fragments of Ostrea aquila or Couloni, or a variety, for it is smaller." " It is
possible to gather a quantity of this ostrea in a good state of preservation. I found also many
small shells of Pecten quinque costatus and a debris of Terebratula." u Before coming to the
lumachelle, which is in contact with the red argillaceous sandstone of the Trias, there is a

greyish white calcareous sandstone, which passes to a white limestone slightly oolitic [?]

then the lumachelle of ostrea." " This bed of transition is only one foot thick ; the four beds
of lumachelle are two feet." In the Resume Mr. Marcou describes the formation as follows :
" I have mentioned two points between Topof ki creek and Anton Chico, where the Triassic
rocks are covered by more modern formations ; the first of these points is upon one of the
tributaries of the Washita river, near our Camp No. 31, where, upon the heights, are found
the remains of beds of a limestone filled with shells, which I connect with the Neocomian of
Europe, or, in other words, with the lower division of the Cretaceous rocks. This limestone is
only five feet thick ; it is of a whitish grey color, containing an immense quantity of ostracea,
which I consider (provisionally) as the Exogyr a ponder osa, Roemer ; having the closest analogy
with the Exogyra of the Neocomian of the environs of Neuchatel."

The only representative of this formation which I find in the collection, is the well known
Cretaceous fossil Grypliea Pitcheri, No. 134 of the catalogue. This, indeed, is the only fossil I
find in the collection brought from this section of the route. The observations in regard to the
extent of this deposite laterally are not very definite. In the Resume, Mr. Marcou states, that
it " has been almost wholly destroyed and carried away by denudations, for it is only fouud on
the summits of the hills, resembling the remains of ancient buildings ; it occupies actually only
the width of three or four miles." Captain Marcy, who passed over this region in 1849, men-
tions a "formation of gypsum and blue limestone ledges, in which he discovered petrifactions
of oysters and muscles."1 This is probably the same deposite, or a continuation of that seen by
Mr. Marcou. It was between the Washita and Canadian rivers, near the sources of the former.

Lieutenant Simpson observes, respecting this region, that up to a point "within twenty
miles of the Antelope hills, the country is richly characterized by the gypsum formation ; the
evidences of which appear in outcrops all around. This mineral can here be found in almost
every form — earthy, fibrous, selenitic, and massive ; and it is doubtless owing to it that the
water of the region co-extensive with it is in many places so unpalatable and nauseous."2

Alluvial deposites. — Mr. Marcou frequently refers to accumulations of round pebbles, which he
calls alluvium, found along the route, and, as I understand by his notes, above the beds of the
creeks. Between Camps 20 and 21, this " alluvium" was formed of quartz pebbles the size of
a pigeon's egg. Between Camps 25 -and 26, pebbles of quartz, trap, agate, and jasper were

1 Report on the route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe\ p. 179.
* Report on the route to Santa Fe\ p. 8.

20

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIF'fe PARALLEL.

found mingled with sand, varying from the size of a nut to that of one's fist, and all were much
rounded and water-worn.

This deposite is from one to one and a half feet thick. The recurrence of a similar deposite
hetween Camps 26 and 2*7 is mentioned. Again, near Camp 31, pehhles of quartz, carbonate
of lime, silex, jasper, gneiss, and rolled fragments of ostrea, were found, which appeared to
have come from the valley of the Washita. By far the most important deposite of this character
recorded was found half way between Camps 33 and 34 ; it is ''very thick, and is formed of
large pebbles of quartz and granite the size of a gourd ; there is also white sand often fifteen
feet thick, and very hard." Numerous little hills of "diluvium" are mentioned under the
same date. Similar deposites of pebbles were found the next day above the Canadian river,
while near it, only white and red sand, without pebbles, was seen. Deposites of this character
were found along the whole route, and their resemblance to the " drift," mentioned by Dr.
Shumard and others in their reports and journals, will be subsequently noted.

in. ANTELOPE HILLS TO THE EASTERN BASE OF THE SANTA FE AND SANDIA MOUNTAINS.

The Antelope hills, sometimes called the Boundary mounds, or Antelope buttes, are well
known land-marks to the traveller of the valley of the Canadian. The first description of them,
which I find, is given by Lieutenant J. W. Abert, who states, " that there are five of them, two
of which appear perfectly conical, and the group forms one of the most noted land-marks in the
whole country." Descriptions of them are given by both Captain Marcy and Lieutenant Simp-
son, who passed up the Canadian in 1849. Lieutenant Simpson1 observes: "Their height,
probably from 120 to 150 feet above the plain below, has caused them to be seen for the past
two days, they having constantly appeared as if they were near at hand ; and yet, when first
seen; their distance off was under-estimated by some eight or ten miles. Their form is quite
regular, four appearing, in the distance, of an oblong shape ; the two others conical, and each
of them capped by a well defined terrace, or rather table, of white vesicular sandstone, eighteen
feet thick and horizontally stratified." Captain Marcy2 also reports tbem as 150 feet high, and
states that they are of porous sandstone. " They rise almost perpendicularly from the smooth
prairie, are flat upon the top, and present every indication of having been raised out of the
earth by volcanic agency."

The annexed outline sketch, which I have reduced from one by Mr. Mollhausen, will at once
convey an idea of their appearance, and show their origin to the geologist.

ANTELOPE BILLS.

They are evidently of horizontal strata,, which were once continuous, and which formed a
plateau raised above the general level of the prairie, but which, owing to the denudation or
wearing away by rain-water and streams, has been cut by ravines, and separated into many
portions, which now constitute the flat-topped mounds.

Mr. Marcou found that the sandstone of these mounds was friable and of a dirty-white color.
It is incrusted with carbonate of lime, and some of the upper beds are entirely of white lime-

1 Report of a survey on the Upper Arkansas, and the country of the Comanche Indians, 1845, p. 67.
* Report of the route from Fojt Smith to Santa Fe-, p. 180.

TABLE-HILLS AND PLATEAUX — LLANO ESTACADO. 21

stone. The strata were decomposing rapidly, and holes or cavities of all shapes were formed in
them by the weather. I find a specimen of this sandstone in the collection. It is No. 68 of
the catalogue, and its label by Mr. Marcou states that it is from tbe upper Trias. The descrip-
tion of this specimen in full will be found in the appropriate place, (Chapter X,) but I extract a
few lines from it. The specimen presents a remarkable resemblance to several of the sandstone
specimens collected by Captain Pope near the 32d parallel. The grains are siliceous, white and
yellow, and are cemented by a large quantity of amorphous carbonate of lime ; in fact the
grains seem rather to be imbedded in a paste of carbonate of lime. It most resembles No. 29
of Captain Pope's collection, found on the surface of the Llano Estacado, forty miles east of
the Rio Pecos.1

We thus have at this locality sandstone formations very different in aspect from the dark red
and blue clays which contain the gypsum in such large quantities. A marked change in the
geology commences at this part of the route, and we shall presently see that these isolated
buttes are probably outlying portions of a widely-extended plateau — the Mano Estacado — which
was partly traversed by the survey, and the base of which was followed for a long distance.

From the Antelope hills to Camp 40 the road was continually upon or near white or grey
sandstone, and the gypsum does not appear to have been seen.

Mr. Marcou mentions mounds on the left, between Camps 36 and 37, the day's journey after
leaving the Antelope hills, and buttes similar to the Antelope hills were mentioned by Captain
Marcy in 1849, and are laid down by Lieutenant Simpson on his map as north of the road near
his Camp No. 43. All that country, according to this last authority, is similar, as far as the
margin of the celebrated plateau — the Llano Estacado or Staked Plain.

The following is a sketch of one of the table-hills three miles west of Shady creek, near
camp.

TABLE-HILL THREE MILES WEST OF SHADY CREEK.

It shows the mode of formation of these mounds very distinctly, the base of the mound being
covered with the ruins of the hard stratum on the top. This layer is probably magnesian lime-
stone, as it was found in similar positions in this vicinity by Mr. Marcou, and an outline figure
of one of the hills, with the blocks on the slope, is given in his notes.

Between Camps No. 37 and No. 38, the trail crosses the valley of Dry river, so named by
Gregg, which is bordered by steep and rugged escarpments of rock. This stream affords an ex-
cellent example of the denuding action of running water, and it is noticed by Lieutenant Simp-
son. He states that the soil and sub-strata are composed of a friable white sandstone. From
a consideration of the appearances presented along the banks of this stream, Lieutenant Simp-

1 See the writer's Keport on the Geology of the Route near 32d parallel of latitude, U. S.^ Pacific R. R. Exploration
and Survey, vol. ii.

22

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

son was led to give a very correct explanation of the origin and mode of formation of the nu-
merous round, flat-topped mounds of that region.1

Upraised sandstone strata. — It should be remarked, before passing to a consideration of the
portions of the line to the westward of this region, that Captain Marcy in his exploration of Eed
river passed within twenty-five or thirty miles of the south bank of the Canadian, and at one point
crossed over to it. Dr. Shumard, who accompanied him, made some observations on the strata
of the region, which will be interesting in this place, and tend to throw additional light upon
the geology of the line. At a point several miles south of the trail, between Camps 36 and 38,
Dr. Shumard found an outcrop of greyish yellow sandstone, presenting a dip of forty degrees
to the west. Again, on the 9th of June, near Sweet Water creek, an outcrop of finely lami-
nated red, ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the northeast of about thirty
degrees, was found. It was also passed during the next day's march and presented evidence of
violent disturbances ; the strata being nearly perpendicular in some places. On Red river, about
twenty miles east, horizontal strata of red and blue clay, containing gypsum, were seen, and they
formed long ranges of bluffs. On the banks of Suydam creek there were similar bluffs, but
without the gypsum- From these facts I conclude that the upraised sandstone is older than
these gypsiferous strata, and that it was uplifted prior to their deposition. The upraised beds
are probably similar in composition and age to the upraised carboniferous sandstones occurring
east of Delaware mountains in the Sans Bois and other ranges.

Loess. — Another and a very interesting formation was found in that region by Dr. Shumard,
on the banks of a creek just south of Dry river, and between Suydam and Buffalo creeks. This
deposite consists of a grey calcareous loam, filled with shells characteristic of the loess forma-
tion— Helix pfrebiurn, Succinea elongata, &c. A similar deposite was found on Bed river, twenty-
six miles above Fort Washita. At this place it is " about twenty -five feet thick, and consists of
an ash-colored calcareous loam, which, on inspection, was found to contain terrestrial and fluviatile
shells of the genera Lymnea, Physa, Planorbis, Pupa, and Helix, the whole resembling species
which we have observed at New Harmony, Indiana, and elsewhere in the Mississippi valley."2
It is this formation which rises in bluffs along the Mississippi river, and which was deposited by
the river when the land was slightly lower than at present ; and now, owing to its uplift, the
river has cut a path downward and carried away a great part of the deposite, but has left here
and there a " bluff" or terrace to mark its former channel. These bluffs at Natchez attain an
elevation of about 200 feet above the more newly deposited alluvium, and in these and at other
places the land and fresh-water shells are found to be specifically identical with those in the
adjoining swamps. Sir Charles Lyell, during his visit to this country, first recognised the simi-
larity of these deposites to the loess of the Rhine.3

It is therefore probable that the region of the upper portion of the Bed river has been sub-
jected to changes of level similar to and synchronous with those which have affected the valley
of the Mississippi. We should consequently look for similar evidences of disturbance along the
Canadian, especially along that portion of it near Loess creek. It is very probable that such
deposites exist at various points, and they may be very extensive and cover broad areas in the
low valleys bordering the lower parts of the river, especially near its junction with the
Arkansas.

Dr. Shumard also observed the occurrence of considerable quantities of " drift" scattered
over the region, which must be similar to that met with along the line. This 11 drift" deposite
will be considered after the description of the Llano Estacado has been given.

El Llano Estacado, {the Staked Plain). — At Camp No. 45, on the banks of the Arroyo
Amarillo, the ascent of the bluffs of the Llano was commenced, and the surface of the plateau
was followed for about twenty-seven miles, with the exception of the crossing of Encampment

1 Report of the route from Fort Smith to Santa ¥6, p. 10.

4 Shumard in Marcy's Red River report, p. 182.

' Lyell's Second Visit to the United States, vol. ii, chap, xxxiv.

BLUFFS OF THE LLANO ESTACADO.

23

creek, where the stream has hollowed out a ravine. Of this portion of the route, Lieutenant
Whipple observes, in his preliminary report, that it is an apparently boundless, plain, without
a shrub or tree as far as sight can penetrate. It is covered with a thick carpet of buffalo-grass,
which is cropped by numerous herds of antelope and deer.1 Captain Marcy, who crossed the
Llano at this point, thus observes, in his report of 1849 : " When we were upon the high table-
land, a view presented itself as boundless as the ocean. Not a tree, shrub, or any other object,
either animate or inanimate, relieved the dreary monotony of the prospect ; it was a vast illim-
itable expanse of desert prairie — the dreaded Llano Estacado of New Mexico ; or, in other
words, the great Zahara of North America."2

A general sketch of the prominent physical features of the Llano has already been given.
(See Chapter I.) The Antelope hills may be regarded as the commencement of this vast plain,
although they are in fact but fragmentary outliers resulting from denudation. They are also,
undoubtedly, much denuded on their tops as well as sides, and do not rise to the height of the bluff
borders of the principal plateau. This main plateau is marked by a long line of bluffs — precip-
itous escarpments — which front upon the valley of the Canadian, hemming it in on both sides with
grand natural walls. The point at which these vertical banks were first ascended was between
Camps 45 and 46 ; and, although this part of the Llano is only a projecting point or peninsula
of the great plateau which extends north, so as to impinge upon the river, its borders were well
defined and presented a bold front across the route, looking like a great wall or barrier in the
dim light of early morning. The sketch was taken one hour before sunrise, and shows a re-
markable regularity of the sun's rays as they shot up behind the summit of the plain. The
broken and denuded borders of the plateau are well shown, and the peculiar barren and tree-
less surface cannot fail to attract notice.

bluffs of the llano estacado, (one hour before sunrise, Sept. 17.)

This was not the eastern borders of the Llano; they were passed some time previously, the
commencement of the main line of bluffs being nearly south of Camp 41, at the western limit
of the area of whitish sandstones around the Antelope hills. After leaving Camp 41, the (rail
passed for a long distance upon the red-colored strata bearing gypsum, and lying between the
Llano and the river. The bluffs of the Llano, however, appear to extend further west on the
north side of the Canadian than on the south, unless we consider the Antelope hills as forming

1 Keport of Explorations for a Railway Eoute, &c, H. Doc. 129, p. 18.

2 Marcy 's report of the route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe", p. 185.

24

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

the western limit. Mr. Marcou observes, under date of September 8th, that at Camp 38,
" on the right and left banks of the Canadian we find the commencement of the Llano, a sort of
plateau with some flat, isolated mountains as an advanced guard, similar to the Alb of Wirtem-
berg near Hedinger and Balenguen." After travelling further westward, Mr. Marcou formed
the opinion that the strata of the Antelope hills, the grey sandstones, were not the extension of
the strata of the Llano, but that they underlaid them and formed a part of the " Trias."

Captain Marcy, in his explorations at the sources of the Red river, travelled under the eastern
border of the Llano, and enjoyed an excellent opportunity for locating it on his map and ex-
amining its characters. He travelled for several miles in a narrow ravine, bordered on both
sides by vertical bluffs of the horizontal strata over 600 feet high. This was at the head of
Eed river, about fifty miles south of the Canadian. The water there gushes out in a spring and
flows for a short distance over the white or greyish strata of the plateau. Dr. Gr. Gr. Sbumard,
who accompanied Captain Marcy, describes these bluffs as consisting of horizontal layers of
drift, sandstone, and yellow clay ; and on June 28th the bluffs, " six hundred feet high," were
composed of horizontal layers of drift and sandstone interstratified with white limestone.1 In
the section which accompanies this description the "drift" is represented with a thickness of
nearly 100 feet, and is succeeded below by grey and yellow sandstones interstratified with thin
seams of non-fossiliferous limestone ; and this again by gypsum and red clay. It is impossible
to determine from the section how great a thickness is occupied by the grey and yellow sand-
stones, but it is certainly not less than 250 feet. It is, however, mentioned on page 192 that
the inferior strata, or those between the base of the bluffs and the river, consist of gypsum and
red clay. This leaves the legitimate inference that the yellow sandstones and limestones attain
a thickness of 500 feet.

The composition of the bluffs along Encampment creek, a point about half way between
Camps 45 and 46, the portion of*the route which traversed the summit of the Llano, was thus
observed and recorded by Mr. Marcou, (see notes, September IT) :

White limestone.
Calcareous conglomerate.
Limestones.

Sandstone with numerous calcareous concretions.
■ Red sandy marls of the New Red.

At Camp No. 46, which was at the foot of the Llano, the following section was noted :

10 feet — Limestone resembling Forest marble.

iRed sandy marl.
Violet sandstone.
Red marl.

100 feet — Grey sandstone, sometimes violet.

Mr. Marcou further observes, that the sandstone of Rocky Delaware creek (forming the base
of the section) is whitish-grey, with some shales of a rosy hue. A specimen of this sandstone
is in the collection, (No. 65,) and is described in Chapter X. It is this sandstone which is
regarded as Triassic, and which Mr. Marcou, in his notes, thought was the same as that form-
ing the Antelope hills. (See September 18.)

Tucumcari Hill. — On descending from the Llano to the valley of Rocky Delaware creek, the
red-colored strata were again encountered, and the trail passed upon them, with occasional
exceptions, as far as Hurrah creek, a tributary of the Pecos. The bluffs of the Llano were con-
stantly in view on the south. Beyond Camp 48, the mound called Tucumcari is found, rising to
the height of the Llano, but standing apart from it, and completely isolated. This is called
Cerro Tucumcari by Captain Marcy,2 who remarks that it is round and symmetrical, and when
seen at a distance, resembles the dome of the capitol at Washington. Simpson also remarks

-■-Shumard in Marcy's Report, pp. 191, 192.

9 This name appears to have been given to the mound by Gregg. See his work entitled " Commerce of the Prairies."

PYRAMID MOUNTAIN CRETACEOUS FOSSILS.

25

this resemblance, and we are indebted to him for the first observations upon the extent and ele-
vation of the hill. Its circumference at the base was found to be nearly six miles, its height about
700 feet, and the area of the summit about 230 by 370 yards.1 I do not find any description of
the strata of this mound in the notes of Mr. Marcou, but I do not doubt, from the statements of
Lieutenant Whipple, that they agree exactly with those of the Llano. This is also indicated by
the fact that the slopes of the mound are covered with cedars, exactly as on the northern slopes
of the Llano. We have also the section of Pyramid mountain, by Mr. Marcou, which is not
far distant, and may be regarded as an exhibition of the mineral character of the Tucumcari and
of the Llano.

Pyramid Mountain. — The finest and most complete section of the horizontal strata of the
bluffs along the route was obtained at this mountain by Mr. Marcou. The point was pecu-
liarly favorable, being one of the isolated mounds, a remnant of the Llano, and exposing the
strata on all sides. It is only one of the many mounds dotted over the wide space eroded by
the river from the Llano, and called Plaza Larga by the Mexicans. This mound was ascended
by Mr. Marcou, and others of the party, and we find the following record of the succession of
the strata in the notes under date of September 22 :

Mr. Marcou considers that the base of this mound is formed of the beds of the superior Trias,
the upper portion being Jurassic. It does not appear to me that the evidences are sufficient to
warrant this decision, but the discussion of this subject will be left for a subsequent portion of
the report.

A sketch of this mound was carefully taken in colors by Mr. Mollhausen, the tints agreeing
as nearly as possible with those presented by the strata. The sketch has been lithographed and
is appended. It will serve to convey an idea of the relations of the strata, especially the white
and red series, and may be received as an exhibit of the general aspect of the bluffs of the Llano,
where the beds are exposed. The section and locality derives great interest from the occurrence
of fossils. The bed containing the Ostrea is said to be of greyish-blue clay and sub-schistose,
and two inches thick. The Ostrea is subsequently called Ostrea dilatata, and is again mentioned
in the Eesume. This is the fossil called Gryphcea Tucumcarii in the collection (No. 133) from
Pyramid mountain, and referred to in the Kesume under the same name, it being said to have
the greatest analogy with the Gryphaia dilatata of the Oxford clay.3 It probably is a new species
or a variety of Gryphaia Pitcheri, and a description of it will be found in Chapter IX, under the
name G. Tucumcarii, originally proposed by Mr. Marcou. See also Plate I.

From these various observations we may conclude that the great plateau, the Llano Estacado,
consists of horizontal strata of light-colored white, or greyish-white, and yellowish sandstones,
and bluish clays and marls, resting conformably upon beds of red clay, red sandstone, and
gypsum, and these, according to Mr. Marcou, are intercalated with greyish or light-colored

1 Report of the route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe", 1849, p. 14.

* The specific name cannot be deciphered in the original. It looks like Comanche. W. P. B.

* The genus Gryphaea was formerly included with the Ostracea.

SECTION AT PYRAMID MOUNTAIN.

500 feet

White limestone.

Yellow limestone with bluish-grey bed at the bottom.

Bed containing Ostrea [?].2

White sandstone.
Yellow sandstone.
White sandstone.

Grey and green bed in contact with the superior Trias.

Red and green sandstone.

White marls with concretions.

Red and green marls.

White.

Red.

"Triassic."

"Jurassic'

4 t

26

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

sandstones, as on Rocky Delaware creek. It also appears that the light-colored sandstones and
calcareous beds constitute the main part of the bluffs, and that the red marls and clay of the
gypseous series are at their base and occupy the space between them and the river.

The trail then, after passing the Antelope hills, passed for a time over grey sandstones and
their debris, then upon the red clays and sand for several miles, until at Camp 43, on Arroyo
Bonito, grey or white sandstones were again found on the banks of the creeks. Beyond this a
succession of variegated marls was seen, but gypsum was not found.

At Camp No. 45, on Amari creek, the ascent of the bluffs of the Llano was commenced, and
its surface was traversed for a few miles, and then the survey again traversed the red clays of
the gypsiferous formation in the valley of the Canadian and its tributaries, until the mounds
just described were reached.

Plaza Larga. — This place, so called by the Mexicans on account of the wide and fertile valley
of the Rio Tucumcari, is at the base of the Tucumcari hills, and about two hundred miles east of
the Rio del Norte. Its soil probably consists of the red clays and sand, mingled with the debris
of the strata of the Llano ; and, according to Mr. Marcou, it is without alluvium, not even of
fragments of sandstone or limestone. The border bluffs of the Llano here recede to the south,
and Tucumcari hill stands in the centre of the curve. They again extend to the north, and over-
hang the route beyond Plaza Larga, and near Laguna Colorado, at Camp 50. The road also
between Camps 50 and 51 is near the bluffs, but is on the red clay formation. At Camp 51 the
wide valley of the Pecos and Hurrah creek is reached, and the bluffs of the Llano again bend
southward and disappear. This part of the route is among isolated hills, which are remnants
of the once continuous Llano, and now stand as monuments of its destruction, but agree with
it in their geological structure.

REMNANT OF A STRATUM OF SANDSTONE NEAR LAGUNA COLORADO.

One of the projecting bluffs passed by the expedition was surmounted by a singular outlier
of the rock, poised upon a narrow base. It is an interesting example of weathering and decay,

CRETACEOUS FOSSILS ANTON CHICO CUESTA.

27

and is an attractive feature in that monotonous landscape. It is found near Laguna Colorado,
Camp 50.

The lake and the hluff margin of the Llano are seen in the hack-ground of the sketch.

Lieutenant Simpson gives such an interesting description of the tahle-mounds, and the country
about them, that I quote it from his report : ' c Following up Tucumcari creek, a fine view,
made up of sugar-loaf hills and tableau mounds, and opening vistas, presents itself to your
front. The regular stratification of these hills, their party white and red color in horizontal
zones, and the whole surface, besprinkled as they are with stinted cedar of a dark-green color,
will not fail to be noticed by the traveller as giving them a very beautiful and unique
character. The formation of these hills, which are from one hundred to three and four
hundred feet high, is at the base a red argillaceous rock, easily frangible ; next, proceeding
upwards, a zone of sandstone rock, very friable, and of a greenish white color ; last, and upper-
most, a sandstone rock, of a brownish hue, and rather coarse character. Large fragments of
these last mentioned rocks lie scattered on the slope of the hills, and many among them, I
noticed, presented evidences of having been subjected to the action of fire. Indeed I think
these evidences of igneous action increase as we proceed towards the Eocky mountains, or
primary rocks. On all these hills, and in the silt of the streams at their base, are found fossil
shells of a'species which point to the cretaceous period. This species of fossil was also found
on the Independence route, some two hundred miles from Santa Fe, by Mr. A. "Randall, of
Minnesota, who classes it among the Inoceramus, a type of the Cretaceous formation."1 One of
the flat-topped hills is crossed by the trail between Camps 52 and 53. It forms the divide
between the bed of Hurrah creek and the Grallinas river, an affluent of the Pecos. The upper
strata are said by Mr. Marcou to be nodular, like those of the Llano.

This portion of the route is in the immediate vicinity of the trail of Dr. Wislizenus in 1846
and and his observations on the geology of that vicinity are interesting. He crossed the

Gallinas river about twenty miles north of the line of the survey, and describes the bluffs at
that point as consisting "of a dark bluish schistose limestone, with fossils belonging to the Cre-
taceous formation." 2 He has so marked this part of his trail on his map, and in the descrip-
tion (p. 136) says the limestone on G-allinas creek was dark blue, and contained casts of Inoce-
ramus. Beyond that point, towards the mountains, sandstone of different colors, red, grey,
and white, was seen.

Anton Ghico. — From the river G-allinas the route was upon the gypsum formation to Anton
Chico, which is on the same deposites, and is in the valley of the headwaters of the Pecos, sur-
rounded on all sides by the mesa-summits of the horizontal strata of the Llano and its northern
extension. Mr. Marcou remarks that, at this point it appears to extend more to the north than
south. He also observes of Anton Chico, that it is situated "in a basin of red marl, of Triassic
age, with sandy alluvium and diluvium." (Notes, September 28.)

Canon Blanco and Guesta. — A few miles beyond Anton Chico the bluffs of the Llano approach
so closely that the valley becomes very narrow, and the exposure of the red clay becomes very
slight. Cuesta is situated at the base of one of these bluffs, on the north side of the Pecos.
Mr. Marcou states that the bluffs are 800 feet high at this point, and that they exhibit a beau-
tiful section. The strata which he calls "Trias" form the base, and above them there is a sandy
and marly dolomite ; white sandstone, with intercalations of greyish-white marly beds suc-
ceeds, and sometimes beds of yellow calcareous sandstone, but less than at Pyramid mountain.
No beds of gryphcea were found at the summit of the cliff.

1 Simpson's report of the route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe". I place great confidence in this determination hy tho
late Dr. Randall. This gentleman had in his possession many valuable notes, and a collection of specimens made bj blm
during his journey over the country to California. At the time of his assassination he was the President of the Califoi nia
Academy of Natural Sciences, and had done much in aid of science on the western coast. His death will long be deplored
by all who are interested in the development of the natural history of the Pacific slope.

2 Wislizenus's Report, p. 17.

28

GEOLOGICAL KBPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

The gorge called Canon Blanco commences nearly west of Cuesta, and is formed by the erosion
of the strata of the Llano. Mr. Marcou considered the strata in the bottom of the gorge to be
of the age of the upper trias ; while the bluffs are of white and yellow sandstone, with some
interposed beds of grey marl and a greyish-white nodular limestone. No fossils were seen.
He also records that these strata are inclined towards the E.E.S., the heads of the strata being
turned towards the mountains. (See notes, September 30.) This is the first observation of a
disturbance of the strata of the Llano, but the extent of it, the angle of dip, is not mentioned.
The peculiar form of the canon and the topography show, however, that this clip must be very
slight.

Lieutenant Simpson describes this canon as a " sufficiently wide and smooth defile, the
escarpments of which run up on either side in places to at least 1,000 feet." The end of this
canon is at Lagunas, Camp No. 56 of the survey, and No. 55 of Mr. Marcou's notes. This
camp is on the summit or swell of the ground which divides the waters of the Pecos from those
of the Galisteo, a tributary of the Rio Grande del Norte. At this point the line of survey turns
southwestwardly to the entrance of the San Antonio Pass, at the southern end of the Gold
mountains, and at the base of the Sandia range. Mr. Marcou's trail diverged from this towards
the northwest, along the road to Santa Fe, through the valley of the Galisteo. In this valley,
before reaching the village of Galisteo, Mr. Marcou notes the occurrence of upraised* white and
yellow sandstone, trending north and south, and the strata dipping east and west at angles of
from 15° to 60°. Farther onward, at the village of Galisteo, he found a trap dyke, cutting the
white sandstone in a direction " 30° E.E.N, to 30° W.W.S." The colored strata (the £< Tri-
assic") were also upheaved, dipping south-southeast, under angles of 10° to 15°. Volcanic
cones and lava streams were afterwards found. These volcanic rocks, the dyke and the volca-
noes, are on a basis of granite, forming the lofty mountains east of Santa Fe.

We have thus traced the stratified formations of the plains and prairies to their western
boundaries at the foot of the mountains. Their relations to these lines of upheaval and the
geology of the mountains will be subsequently considered.

Alluvial Deposites and Drift or " Diluvium." — In describing the strata of the section of the
route which has been under consideration the superficial deposites or accumulations of pebbles
and sand have not been regarded. These accumulations are often mentioned by Mr. Marcou in
his notes, and by Dr. Shumard in his observations on the geology of the adjoining tract, on the
divide between the Canadian and Red rivers. The deposites will be described under the head
of Alluvial and Post Tertiary deposites, in the after part of the report.

CHAPTER III.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OE THE ROUTE.

SANTA FE, ALBUQUERQUE, AND THE VALLEY OP THE RIO GRANDE DEL

NORTE.

General Remarks. — Sandia and santa fe mountains. — View of Albuquerque and the sandia mountains. — Carboniferous
limestone. — granite. fossils.- — relative positions of the strata. — coal measures. absence of outcrops on the west

SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS. METAMORPHIC ROCK. GRANITE. TRAP-DYKES. At GALIBTEO AND THE HEAD- WATERS OF THE TUERTO.

Resemblance to ruins and walls. — Quartz veins. — Volcanoes and lava, cerritos. — Plains of lava or basalt. — Bluff at
ban felipe. — Sedimentary deposites of the valley of the rio grande. — Bluffs and horizontal beds. — Resemblance of

the strata to those on the canadian. cretaceous fossils at poblazon. — sandstone and 8elenite. — probable cretaceous

age of the strata in the valley of the rio grande. — alluvial deposites. soil of the valley of the rio grande. —

Sand-dunes. — Valley of the puerco.

Although the line of survey did not extend north as far as Santa Fe, this place was visited
hy Mr. Marcou, and notes were made upon the geology. Some of the most interesting fossils of
the collection are from this vicinity — from the Pecos villages at the southern end of the Santa
Fe mountains. The geology of this part of the route becomes much more intricate and inter-
esting, as, instead of horizontal strata exposed at most to the depth of a thousand feet, we have
the varieties of the intrusive rocks traversed hy mineral veins, and flanked hy uplifted strata of
different ages and lithological characters.

A general description of the wide valley between the two principal ranges of mountains — the
Santa Fe and Sandia on one side, and the Sierra Madre on the other — has already been given,
(see Chapter I,) and the fact that the Rio Grande occupies a small part of the space, and that its
channel is confined to the eastern side of the valley, has been shown. The settlements in that
region being chiefly upon this river, are confined to the vicinity of the eastern ranges, the Sandia
and Santa Fe, and the geological observations, are, therefore, more numerous and complete
around them than on the western side or among the ridges of the Sierra Madre. As the pre-
ceding descriptions have extended along the route up to the hase of the first mentioned ranges,
their geological structure will be first considered.

Sandia and Santa Fe mountains.' — Previous to the exploration of Lieutenant Whipple, we
were aware that the main axis of these mountains was granitic, and that stratified limestones were
found in them; but of the age of these strata, and of their relative position to the granite, there
appears to have been but little or no reliable evidence. Mr. Marcou's notes, however, and the
collection of fossils from the eastern hase of the range, leave us no longer in doubt on these
points.

These mountains present almost vertical escarpments towards the west, and when seen from
Albuquerque or its vicinity, the sky outline appears very regular and straight and is suggestive
of the edges of stratified rocks. The annexed sketch was taken hy Mr. Campbell, from the
Camp beyond Albuquerque, and the peculiar form of the summit of the mountains is distinctly
shown.

The examination of the mountains verifies the indications, and we find granite and the
associate rocks at the base, and at the summit thick strata of carboniferous limestone dipping
eastwardly at angles of 25 or 30 degrees, and so passing under the strata of the Llano which have
been described. These limestone strata are associated with shales, which are black, and from

30 GEOLOGICAL EEPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

four to six feet thick. Beds of sandstone also occur, and these are rose-colored and very hard.
(See notes October 10th.) No coal was found, but its presence further south in the Manzana
mountains is mentioned. The following are the fossils noted in these carboniferous rocks :
Productus giganteus and punctatus, Terebratulce, Spiriferce, Orthocera, Zaphrentis, and Crinoids.

ALBUQUERQUE AND THE SANDIA MOUNTAINS.

These observations on the limestone were made on the day of the ascent of the range, but the
same strata were seen and notes made upon them at their exposure further south, and along the
line of the trail passing eastward from Albuquerque towards San Antonio and San Pedro.
After leaving Albuquerque and passing for two miles over alluvial deposites, outcrops of granite
were found, three miles wide ; and resting on this granite were thick strata of limestone, dipping
eastward at an angle of 35 or 40 degrees, the heads of the beds being turned to the west.
Tbis is interstratified with thin and black clay shales. Productus giganteus and punctatus a
Spirifer, and two Terebratulai and Polypes, were found here.

Mr. Campbell informs me that the fossils are very abundant near the trail, andean be readily
knocked out of the limestone with a hammer.

This limestone is said to border the trail on the right for a mile or more. The limestone
was met with again a short distance beyond San Pedro, and it dips to the east, as before.
This is very probably the same outcrop of limestone which contains veins of copper and lead
ore, and which is found on the trail between San Pedro and Tuerto. The mines in this
limestone vere visited by Lieutenant J. W. Abert in 1846, and he obtained from the rock a
Terebrutula, which is figured in his report.1

The next, and perhaps the most interesting locality of this carboniferous limestone, is at the
eastern base of the southern end of the Santa Fe range, at the Pecos villages, so well known
and celebrated as the former residence of the descendants of the Montezumas, who kept their
sacred fire constantly burning until within a few years. At this place — at New and Old
Pecos — Mr. Marcou examined the limestone and obtained numerous fossils. These are in the
collection, (see Nos. 114 to 122,) and have been examined and described for me by Professor
Hall, of Albany. These descriptions, and the figures of new and important species, are given
in a subsequent portion of this report. These fossils are all very perfect, and from the number
collected, I judge that they are very abundant and easily procured.

Lieutenant Abert mentions the abundance of fragments of hard limestone along the road
between Sepullo creek and Vegas, and this renders it probable that the limestone is considerably

1 Report of a reconnoissance in New Mexico, by Lieutenant J. W. Abert.

CARBONIFEROUS ALBUQUERQUE MOUNTAINS.

31

developed further to the north ; indeed, it probably forms a large part of the eastern flank of
the Santa Fe range. It is known to extend for a long distance sonth, and it flanks the Organ
mountains and other ranges on the east of the Eio Grande, these being continuations of the
Sandia range.

The outcrop of limestone near Tuerto is directly east of the Sandia or Albuquerque
mountain, and south of Gold mountain, an elevated mass of granitic and metamorphic rocks.
This granite, and the limestone just south of it, are several miles to the east and north of the
northern end of the Sandia range, and these are out of the line of trend of the limestone as it
was observed near San Antonio, and on the top of the range by Mr. Marcou. So, also, the
limestone on the east side of the Santa Fe range is far east of the line of trend of the Sandia
range. If we connect these outcrops together as one line of uplift, we must regard the trend as
changing suddenly to the northeast. We, however, find that the trend of the Sandia range, if
prolonged across the Eio G-rande, reaches to the southern end of a ridge with the same direction,
and which appears to be the end of the San Juan mountains. The extension of this uplift of
the carboniferous in that direction is thus rendered extremely probable, especially as the ranges
further north impinge upon and cross the Rio G-rande in a similar manner. It may, however,
be found that the Santa Fe, the Gold mountain, and the Sandia outcrop, are parts of one line
of flexure or uplift.

It is difficult to understand the exact position of the Carboniferous strata relatively to the
granitic rocks of Gold mountain, and in the interval between this uplift and the eastern base
of the Sandia range. When Mr. Marcou was travelling at the base of this range he mentions
passing from the granite to the outcrop of the limestones, three hundred feet thick, the heads
of the beds looking to the west, and the dip being from thirty-five to forty degrees east. A
bluff of this limestone was continually on his right hand for one mile as he passed northwards
towards San Antonio, where the ""Trias" was found. From this we may presume that the
road was upon the granite, and indeed this is indicated by the section given, (October 8,)
where the wagon-road is shown on the granite. Under date of October 9th he mentions that
the inferior Carboniferous extends as far as Tejera village, " where, as the Trias, the coal has
been too much compressed and does not appear." There the thickness of the Carboniferous is
stated to be two thousand feet. It would thus appear that he crossed the edges of Carboniferous
strata which probably consist of sandstones of the coal measures in addition to the limestone,
the thickness of the latter having been previously given as three hundred feet. The sandstones
are also referred to under date of October 10th. The limestone near the Gold mountain is
said to dip east, but for a time I was in much doubt whether it was on the western or eastern
side of the granite ; but it now appears most probable that it is on the eastern flank, and that
it dips away from the mountain precisely as from the granite of the Sandia range.

The occurrence of black shales and strata of sandstone with the limestone, and the fact that
Mr. Marcou gives the thickness of the limestone at one point as three hundred feet, and at
another locality, but a few miles distant, and in the same line of trend, he found the thickness
of the Carboniferous to be two thousand feet, leads me to conclude that the coal measures are
developed there. He also states, in his Resume, that the coal measures do occur there. I have,
therefore, represented them upon the map and section.

We would expect to find these stratified rocks, and especially the limestone, coming to the
surface on the western slopes of the mountains. They do not, however, appear either at Santa
Fe or on the Sandia range. We are, therefore, at a loss to decide how to locate the beds in
the interval between the outcrop on the east of the Rio Grande valley and that on the west.
Mr. Marcou, in his notes, does not mention the presence of any limestone on the eastern flank
of the Sierra Madre, but in his Resume he distinctly states that it does so occur, and that it is
succeeded on the west, or beyond the crest of granite, by another outcrop dipping westward.

The occurrence of this limestone with the easterly dip from the Sierra Madre permits us to
conclude that it underlies the whole valley of the Rio Grande, and we should, therefore, find

32

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

it outcropping along the western side of the Sandia and Santa Fe mountains. As, however,
it does not appear on that side of the mountains near the line explored by the survey, we must
conclude that recent sedimentary deposites obscure it from view, or that it has been very much
denuded so as not to appear. If we regard the granite as intrusive and as having flowed up
in the manner of some trappean intrusions among stratified rocks, it is very probable that the
limestone strata on the western side dip under it. The absence of the limestone may be
entirely local, and it may be found to outcrop regularly and to dip west a few miles south of
the line of exploration.

Metamorphic rocks. — It appears from Mr. Marcou's notes that this carboniferous limestone
rests immediately upon the granitic and eruptive rocks, without any intervening sandstone or
other strata. Neither does he record any evidences of a change or metamorphosis of the beds
in consequence of their contact with these rocks. He, however, mentions, under date of Octo-
ber 8th, that the green serpentinoid trap, which is the rock in contact with the limestone strata,
contains strata of metamorphic limestone of Devonian age. The position of these rocks is
shown by a figure. This serpentinoid trap appears in each of the small sections which Mr.
Marcou has drawn in his note-book.

With regard to the mineral characters of this trap, but little can be said beyond the descrip-
tion which I have given of a specimen found in the collection. (See catalogue, No. 41, and the
descriptions.) I have there remarked that the specimen greatly resembles a fragment of meta-
morphosed slate. It has a distinct lamellar structure, and breaks more readily in one direction
than in another. It is highly argillaceous, and is interleaved with thin layers of carbonate of
lime. It does not appear to contain any great amount of magnesia. These characters favor
the belief that it is a metamorphosed calcareous and argillaceous shale.

There is only one specimen of granite from these mountains in the collection, Nos. 1 and 2
of the catalogue. The outcrop from which this specimen was probably taken is said to be
three miles in width, and is succeeded by a rose-colored granite, with but little feldspar, and
dykes of rosy-white quartz ; then follows the serpentinoid trap, with the Carboniferous strata
resting upon it. There are no specimens from Gold mount or Santa Fe mountain. The drift
or detritus coming from Gold mountain was noted as quartzose and containing crystals of
pyroxene, or a similar mineral, about which there appears to have been some doubt. The
detritus from the Santa Fe mountain consisted of granite, serpentine, &c.

Trap- dykes.— Half way between Tuerto and Galisteo Mr. Marcou found a trap-dyke trending
north and south. Further on, in the valley between the Old and New Placer mountains,
several dykes were seen, one having a northwesterly and southeasterly direction, and they were
all cutting the beds of the formation called " Trias." When at Galisteo another trap-dyke
was noted ; it is ten feet wide, and traverses the white sandstone in a direction 30° E.E.N,
to 30° W.W.S. The beds of the "Trias" were upheaved in the vicinity. (See notes,
October 2.)

I learn from A. H. Campbell, esq., the civil engineer of the survey, that there is a fine trap-
dyke at the headwaters of the Rio Tuerto, near San Pedro Pass, which is forty feet thick, and
trends S. 60° E. magnetic. The dip is 45° S. 20° W. It cuts directly through the red
sandstones. The direction of this dyke is so entirely different from that observed by Mr.
Marcou, that I cannot but regard it as separate and distinct.

Lieutenant J. W. Abert observed trap-dykes on the banks of Galisteo river north of the Placer,
and describes one as follows : "Crossing the creek we entered a little vale, traversed in various
directions by walls of trap. At one place we saw a wall that looked at a little distance as if
made by human art ; it was pierced as if for windows and doors. A stranger, whom we met,
insisted that this dyke was one of the vestiges of the ' Indios,' who lived here long ago. But
the Cyclops alone could have worked with such vast materials as these. The planes of the
joints and cleavage have formed the mass in fragments, consisting of rhomboidal prisms whose

VOLCANOES AND LAVA VALLEY OP THE EIO GRANDE.

33

axes are perpendicular to the cooling surfaces."1 We see from, this description that the dyke
was injected into the soft stratified rocks, which have since crumbled away and have left the
harder igneous rock standing like a wall. This is often seen in a region where trap-dykes have
traversed softer strata. A fine example is cited by Owen, and figures are given of trap-dykes
standing out from the surrounding surface, and exhibiting the columnar structure so perfectly
that at a distance they appear like great piles of wood. I have often heard of the " stone walls"
of this part of New Mexico, and have found it difficult to convince some that they were not in
reality works of art.

There are two or three specimens of the rock of these dykes in the collection, (see Nos. 31, 38,
and 39,) and they are described in Chapter X. No. 38 is said to form a dyke in the white chalk,
and is from the Galisteo river. Whether it is taken from the dyke mentioned in the notes as
at Galisteo, is not evident. The rock, however, closely resembles the hard dark-colored trap
of the Palisades and Connecticut. The rock of the dyke between Tuerto and G-alisteo is very
different ; it has a grey color, and consists of feldspar and crystals of hornblende. I find
in the collection (No. 42) a specimen labelled eC Porphyre en dyke," from the volcano of Cerrito,
near Santa Fe. This dyke is not mentioned in the notes.

In addition to these records of igneous action, we find that the granite and metamorphic rocks
of Gold mountain are traversed by numerous veins of quartz, and these are also mentioned by
Mr. Marcou as traversing the granite of Sandia mountain, not far west of its junction with the
limestone. From all these facts we may conclude that the eastern flank of all these ranges has
been subjected to violent igneous disturbances subsequent to the uplift of the Carboniferous
limestone, and even as late as the white sandstone strata of the Llano.

Volcanoes and lava. — The first volcanic phenomena observed along the line of the survey was
at Sieneguilla or Cerrito, a rancho on the Santa Fe river about fifteen miles southwesterly from
Santa Fe. At this point Mr. Marcou found several small extinct volcanic cones called Cerritos,
and overflows of lava which capped the strata along the stream. Specimens of these lavas are
in the collection, Nos. 43 and 44, and descriptions of them will be found in Chapter X. We
have no knowledge of the elevation or magnitude of these volcanic cones.

The presence of a horizontal plain of basaltic lava on the western side of the river back of San
Felipe has been known for a long time, and a plate showing the bluff back of the town is given
in the report of Major Emory, and he remarks the presence of basalt crowning the table-lands of
the west side of the river.2 He afterwards observes that these basaltic coverings are characteristic
of the valley of New Mexico. From Mr. Marcou's notes I judge that the Kio Grande at this point
cuts through the field of basalt, it being found on both sides of the stream. He observes,
October 4th : " We see this black lava spread out, and forming the summit of the cliffs on the
other side of the river. A broad sheet of basaltic lava was also found spread out over the
surface of the table-land between the Eio Grande and the Puerco, and along the route taken by
the survey between Camps 61 and 62. This is over thirty miles south of the lava at San Felipe,
and is directly west of Isleta."

Sedimentary deposites of the Valley of the Rio Grande. — The table-lands of the western border
of the Rio Grande attain an elevation above the streams in some places of about 500 feet, and
present a bluff, precipitous margin towards the east. Little is yet recorded of the lithological
character of the strata composing these table-lands, or mesas, as they are there called. The
bold bluffs certainly present a fine opportunity to the geologist for obtaining sections.

It is believed that these bluffs reveal very nearly the same composition and arrangement of
strata as the bluffs of the Llano.

Mr. Marcou notes the occurrence of Cretaceous strata opposite Alameda. They are sandy and
decomposing, and by wearing away expose a layer of red marl below.

1 J. W. Abert's Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 452.

2 Emory's Report, p. 39.

5 t

34

GEOLOGICAL EEPORT — THIRTY FIFTH PARALLEL.

After passing beyond the Puerco, the stream about fifteen miles west of the Rio Grande, he
notes white sandstones and grey clays, and, finally, tbe red clays of the Trias underlying them.
As the Puerco has worn a very regular valley in this table-land, and is bounded by it on both
sides, we may conclude that the characteristics of tbe strata are the same both east and west of
it. It would appear from the note, November 11, that the surface of the mesa between Albu-
querque and Camp 2 is covered with sand, derived from a sandstone beneath, and at the Puerco
a porous, white, and friable limestone is found. Lieutenant J. W. Abert observes in his report
on New Mexico, that the mesa or table-land [nearly opposite San Domingo, if I am able rightly
to locate the description] is 300 feet in height. This cannot be far from San Felipe, and it is
probably this bluff, crowned with basalt, to which he refers. 1 As he descended the river he
found that " the lower strata of the rocks resembled the saliferous formations on the Rio Cana-
dian." In crossing over the mesa to the Rio Puerco from the place called Atrisco, opposite
Albuquerque, Lieutenant Abert found the surface sandy and barren. At Poblazon, on the
banks of the Puerco, where there are ruins, he found a high bluff in one place, presenting an
abrupt face of 180 feet, and composed of sandstone. These strata contained fossils, "sharks'
teeth, shells, and bones of fish." Professor Bailey, to whom these fossils were, referred, made
the following observations on them : " The fossils from Poblazon consist of gigantic hippurites ;
casts from the cells of several species of ammonites ; valves of inoceramus identical with a species
figured in Fremont's Report, Plate IV, figure 2 ; casts of small univalves and bivalves too
imperfect for determination, and teeth of sharks. These fossils prove that the strata from
which they were taken belong to the Cretaceous formation." 2 Figures of some of these forms
are given in the report. In extending his march westward, Lieutenant Abert followed the
valley of a stream, and the sandstone formations on each side rose to the height of 600 feet.
Fragments of carbonate of lime, of ammonites, and of pieces of Inoceramus, strewed the ground,
and "the little knolls glittered with plates of selenite." This mineral appeared very abundant,
and could be seen glittering on the sides of distant mountains.3 At Moquino, a place due
west from Albuquerque and the Sandia mountain, and at the western base of the volcano San
Mateo, the surrounding country consists of masses of sandstone, overspread by basaltic lavas.

By these fossils, so fortunately collected by Lieutenant Abert, we are authorized to conclude
that the white sandstone of the mesas of that region is of Cretaceous age. Of the thickness
of the formation at this point it is of course impossible to decide with our present limited
information, but it is probable that all the strata exposed along the Rio Grande and Puerco
are Cretaceous.

Alluvial deposites. — The eastern bank of the Rio Grande does not appear to be bordered by
bluffs, except at a few distant points. For several miles above the mouth of the Santa Fe river
both sides of the stream are bordered by bluffs, and the valley is narrow, affording no space for
agriculture or settlements. South of the Santa Fe the valley widens, and in places the alluvial
formation attains a width of several miles ; but it is generally narrow, and the soil poor. It is
described as a sandy plain, and only cultivable where well irrigated by canals from the river.
According to Major Emory, the valley below Angosturas " opens into a plain, varying from two
to six miles in width, generally sufficiently low and level to admit the water of the river to be
carried over it for the purposes of irrigation ; but the soil is very sandy, and better adapted to
Indian corn than to wheat."4

Opposite Sandia the river is said to be about 100 yards wide, "and, as usual, sandy, shallow,
everywhere fordable, and nowhere navigable, not even for canoes. Vegetation, except on the
water-course, is poor, the soil generally sandy and dry." 5 At Albuquerque, where the river

1 See Abert's Report,-1846-'47, p. 463.

5 Professor J. W. Bailey, in Abert's Report, New Mxeico, 1846-'47.

3 Abert's Report.

4 Emory's Report, p. 39.

6 Wislizenus's Report, p. 34.

ALLUVIAL DEPOSITES.

35

was crossed by Major Emory, its width was about twenty-five yards, and its deepest part just
up to the hubs of the wheels. In that vicinity the river deflects slightly to the east, leaving a
plain between it and the bluffs on the west side. This plain is sandy, destitute of wood, and
has but little grass upon it.

Mr. Marcou observes, under date of October 5, that the valley of the river widens considerably
between Alameda and Albuquerque, and consists of sandy alluvium similar to that seen above.
Sand-dunes were also found at this point, extending parallel with the valley. When he trav-
elled eastward towards the Pass of San Pedro and the Sandia mountain he crossed the plain of
the Rio Grande valley, and notes that for ten miles he travelled on the alluvions of the "Rocky
mountains."1 In this distance he doubtless traversed not only the river alluvion, but the
detritus or wash from the granitic rocks of the Sandia range, which forms a broad and gradual
slope.

The valleys of the tributaries of the Rio Grande in that region appear to have a similar sandy
and arid character. Lieutenant Abert observes of the valley of the Puerco, that it is wide and
flat, overgrown with varieties of artemisias and coarse grass, fit only for sheep and goats. The
banks of the river are of stiff loam. The country around is very much broken with sand-hills.
The valley of Jemez river was also found to be sandy ; and this is the character of the banks
of the Galisteo. 2

1 Meaning probably the Santa Fe" mountains and ranges in that vicinity.
Abert's Keport on New Mexico.

CHAPTER IV.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OE THE ROUTE.

FROM THE KIO GRANDE TO THE COLORADO CHIQUIT'O.

Coal along the puerco. — Las lunas. — Burning coal-bed at cebolleta. — Bed sandstone strata. — Lava. — Volcano, san

mateo. blue-clay and fossils.- — covero. — lata stream. coulee. — small crater. granite of the sierra madre.

Carboniferous. — Gneiss. — Limestone on the east side at Campbell's pass. — Summit. — Carboniferous. — Volcano at the
south. — Table-lands west of the sierra madre. — Mounds in peculiar forms. — El moro or inscription rock. — Perfection
of old inscriptions shows the slow wearing of the sandstone. — Ojo pescado. — Lava stream in the valley. — Lava covers
the stream. — Buins at the springs. — Coal. — Zuni and its vicinity. — Cliffs of white sandstone. — Curious forms re-
sulting FROM WEATHERING. TRADITIONS 01' A DELUGE. FOSSILS. JACOB'S WELL. DRIFT OF PEBBLES OF JASPER AND AGATE.

Puerco of the west. — Fossil tree. — Bed strata. — General view of the extent of the table-land. — Canon of the
Colorado probably in the plateau. — Valley of the Colorado chiquito. — Bed clay and gypsum.- — Fossil trees silici-
fied. — Drift. — Basaltic buttes.

Leaving the low alluvial plain of the Rio Grande, and passing westward, the first change in
the geology is presented at the hluff which terminates the mesa lying "between the river and
the Puerco. The paucity of ohservations respecting the stratigraphical character of this tahle-
land have already been remarked, and its composition noted as far as possible. Of its Creta-
ceous age there is scarcely a doubt, both from the evidence presented by the fossils collected
hy Lieutenant Abert at Poblazon, and those found at Galisteo and in the canons of the Llano
on the other side of the Sandia mountains. The presence of the white porous limestone on the
bluff next to the Rio Puerco is additional evidence of the similarity of the strata to those just
mentioned. Lieutenant Whipple observed the presence of scoriae and volcanic hills on the
summit of the high table-lands, and a few miles further south a continuous layer of basaltic
lava covers the strata and extends from the Rio Grande to the Puerco.

Coal. — It appears that coal is found at several points on the Puerco river, and particularly at
Las Lunas, where, as Lieutenant "Whipple observes, it is used by the dragoon blacksmith. This
coal is said hy Mr. Marcou to occur in connexion with greyish-blue clays, which also contain
fossil trees, and is similar to the clay found at the Galisteo river. It is surmounted by yellow
sandstone, and the beds dip to the east at an angle of from 15 to 20 degrees. There are no
specimens of this coal in the collection, and I cannot venture to affirm its age, although it most
probably is Cretaceous or Tertiary. The nearest coal-bed from which we have received any
fossils is at the Raton Pass, where Lieutenant Abert collected leaves of dicotyledonous plants,
which were examined by Professor J. W. Bailey, and pronounced of comparatively modern
origin. It is much more recent than the carboniferous formation. Coal and jet are also found
near Lagunas, and, according to Lieutenant Whipple, an excellent bed of coal crops out at
Cebolleta, and there were accounts of a burning bed about forty miles further north. Captain
Ker, on visiting this locality, found deep fissures from which smoke was issuing, and which led
him to conclude that the combustion proceeded from a coal-bed.1 Lieutenant Simpson also
found coal about forty-five miles further north, under yellowish sandstone.2

Before reaching Lagunas, Mr. Marcou notes the occurrence of the red sandstone of the
" Trias" underlying the blue and grey clays and light-colored sandstone. This formation was

See Lieutenant Whipple's Beport, p. 59.
* Simpson's Beport on the Navajo country, p. 64.

CRETACEOUS— LAVA SIERRA MADRE. 37

continuous between Camps 63 and 64., and, indeed, was subsequently found along tbe valleys of
all tbe streams as far west as the volcarTo of San Francisco. Tbis formation appears to differ
from tbat under tbe white or light-colored sandstones on the east side of the mountains, by
tbe absence of tbe thick beds of red clay or marl. Here, the summit is formed of red argil-
laceous sandstones. Under this, gypsum occurs, and then red sandstone again. (See notes,
November 13.) On the banks of the San Jose, just below Lagunas, the black front of a stream
of lava is found, which appears to have followed the river valley. This, according to Mr. Mar-
cou's observations, is one of the streams of an extinct volcano called San Mateo, and by Lieu-
tenant Simpson, Mount Taylor. It rises about twenty miles north of the line of survey, and
has covered the surrounding country with its outpourings of molten rock, which now rests like
a black mantle over the horizontal sedimentary strata, and in many places protects them from
denudation. According to Lieutenant Simpson, this peak can be seen from Fort Marcy and
other places over one hundred miles distant.

Beyond Laguna, the sides of the valley were formed of blue clays, covered by yellowish-grey
sandstone ; these are surmounted by strata of yellowish-blue clay, containing fossils. In the
notes, Mr. Marcou calls these fossils Gryphcea dilatata, and scales of saurians. Higher up, a
yellowish-grey sandstone is found, containing "Area and Irsocardia." The lava proceeding
from the volcano, Mount Taylor, covers all these strata. (See notes, November 14.) The
occurrence of these fossils at this locality, so near the bed of coal, is very interesting and im-
portant, but no specimens are found in the collection.

Beyond Covero, the light-colored sandstone is exposed for a short distance, and is then hid
from sight by a covering of black lava. At a point five miles from the village, the trail passed
a stream of scoriae, which was found to be continuous to Camp 65, where it was in connexion
with the lavas which come from San Mateo. " The lava and scoriae are black and porous, with
all the conditions of plications and contortions which are found in other countries." (See Mr.
Marcou's notes, November 15.) Lieutenant Whipple observes as follows : " The whole length
of the valley followed to-day has been threaded by a sinuous stream of lava. It appears as if it
had rolled down a viscous semi-fluid mass, had been arrested in its course, hardened, blackened,
cracked, and in places broken, so as to allow the little brook to gush out from below, and gurgle
along by its side. The lava bed is frequently a hundred yards in width, the cross section being
a semi-ellipse, in the centre probably thirty feet high."1 This peculiar undulating and curved
surface, so characteristic of lava streams when partially cooled, was also noticed by Lieutenant
Simpson just before entering the valley of San Jose. At that point there were " hundreds of
acres of volcanic rock, a great deal of it exhibiting with marked distinctness the undulations of
the wave, in its oscillatory motion."2

Between Camps 65 and 66, Mr. Marcou records a great lava stream called the Coulee ; this is
two or three miles wide, and extends to, and beyond, Camp 66. About twenty miles northwest
of Camp 65, and on the borders of the San Jose, there is a crater from which a very considerable
stream of lava has descended, and flowed southeast along the valley. It is believed to be con-
tinuous to near Camp 65, and to mingle with the streams which have descended Mount Taylor.
The position of this crater is shown on the map.3

Sierra Madre — Granite and carboniferous rocks. — Camp No. 66 was upon the granitic rocks
of the Sierra Madre, the second great mountain range crossed by the survey. This granite,
according to Mr. Marcou, is coarse-grained, and of a rosy color. There is but one specimen in
the collection, No. 6 of the catalogue and description. It is coarse-grained and feldspathic,
containing two varieties of this mineral, one white and the other red. A white, silvery mica is
also present. This granite appears to have been exposed from Camp No. 66 to No. 67, where it
was covered by lava. Mr. Marcou mentions the possibility of his having passed outcrops of car-

1 Lieutenant Whipple's Report, p. 62.

2 Simpson's Navajo Report, p. 128.

3 1 am indebted to Mr. Campbell for this information.

38

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY FIFTH PARALLEL.

boniferous limestone and sandstone before reaching Camp 66. In the Resume, he is quite posi-
tive on this subject, observing that the Trias is replaced 4)y the Carboniferous limestone, which is
succeeded by granite, gneiss, &c. Gneiss was seen from Camp No. 67, near the summit, both
north and south of the camp. The width of this exposure of granitic rocks is about twelve
miles along the route, and this is the distance given by Mr. Marcou in his Resume. The survey,
however, crossed the range at one of its lowest points, where, also, the wide-spread sheets of
lava had covered much of the rock from view. There is no doubt that a few miles either north
or south the granitic rocks have a much wider exposure, as the mountains rise to a great height,
and are composed of hard, rugged rocks. The chain, or the granitic exposure, does not, how-
ever, extend many miles north, as Mr. Campbell crossed from the head-waters of the Rio San
Jose to those of the Puerco of the west, several miles northwest of the summit, at Camp 67,
without crossing the granite, he being on the red sandstone strata all the way. He saw the
granite on the south of his trail, and also noted a bed of limestone, which is probably Carbon-
iferous. This limestone is believed to be on the eastern flank of the mountain, and to dip
towards the Rio Grande. It appears from Mr. Marcou's notes that the summit-rock at the
pass, at an elevation of 8,000 feet, is of limestone and sandstone, with the strata dipping west.
He thought it most probable that these strata were Carboniferous, and so denominates them in
the Resume. Lieutenant Whipple, when describing the characters of the summit or dividing
ridge between the ravines on opposite slopes of the mountains, says that the rock is a compact
limestone. The presence of the red sandstone is also recorded by Mr. Marcou, and it contains
its usual associate, the white gypsum.

On descending from the summit the trail passes a lava stream which appears to have pro-
ceeded from the south, where Mr. Marcou saw a high mountain, to all appearance a volcano
with two or three secondary cones, the highest of which was estimated at 10,000 feet. This
is the third volcanic centre noticed along the route. Mr. Campbell informs me that this stream
of lava which was crossed extends for a long distance northward along the base of the Sierra
Madre. Before taking leave of the eruptive rocks of this mountain range, it should be remarked
that it is apparently the continuation of the ranges at the north called Sierra de Tuneclia and
Sierra Chusca, at the western base of which Fort Defiance is located. This place has already
become known, at least by name, to mineralogists as a locality from which great quantities of
beautiful garnets are obtained. They are probably collected in the beds of streams flowing
from the granitic and metamorphic rocks of the mountains.

Region tvest of the Sierra Madre. — The country west of the Sierra Madre presents, in its
topographical aspect, a great similarity to that on the east of the Sandia and Santa Fe mount-
ains, except that it is more cut by streams, and is not, on the whole, so arid and forbidding. It
is a region of elevated table-lands of nearly horizontal strata, which are cut through in all
directions by the streams, leaving here and there isolated mesas of all areas, from a few square
feet to many square miles. Lieutenant Simpson, who was one of the earliest explorers of this
region, describes the country as consisting of "low mesas, blackened along their crests by out-
crops of basalt." At other places the white and red sandstone strata are moulded into fantastic
shapes, " some of them looking like steamboats, and others presenting very much the appear-
ance of facades of heavy Egyptian architecture."1 The singular forms which these strata assume,
by the erosion of streams and long exposure to the weather of that peculiar climate, have
attracted the attention of every traveller, and resemblances to buildings and steamboats are con-
stantly noted. The isolated columns, with the natural layers of the rock piled one on another
with the utmost nicety and regularity, are often mistaken for works of art, and monuments of
giant races now lost to the earth and to history.

El Moro, or Inscription Hock. — This rock, already made famous by the number and variety of
the ancient inscriptions and hieroglyphics which adorn its face, is directly on the line of the
survey and about sixteen miles distant from the summit of the Sierra Madre. I present here

1 Simpson's Navajo Repott, p. 118.

INSCRIPTION ROCK — OJO PESCADO — LAVA.

39

Lieutenant Whipple's description of the form of this remarkable rock. Approaching its north-
east corner, which is rectangular, the cliffs appear truly vertical and smooth to the height of
nearly 200 feet. Here are found the Spanish inscriptions and the Indian hieroglyphics.
Upon the eastern face the rock projects somewhat like a bastion. At the reentering angle there
is a semi-cylindrical recess, slightly shelving and as smooth as if a cascade had poured for ages
over the top. Below is a spring or pool of water, supplying the camp, but affording barely
sufficient for the mules and cattle. The summit of the rock, which is of white sandstone with
a yellowish tinge, is broken so as to present at a distance the appearance of turrets like a
Moorish castle, from which its Spanish name was derived.1 Lieutenant Simpson describes the
rock as a quadrangular mass of sandstone, of a pearly-whitish aspect, from 200 to 250 feet in
height, and strikingly peculiar on account of its massive character, and the Egyptian style of
its buttresses and domes.2 The drawings made by Mr. Kern, and published in Lieutenant
Simpson's report, show at once the stratified and horizontal character of the rock. It must be
composed of very thick beds of homogeneous sandstone, without coarse pebbles, or many part-
ings of the strata, or alternation with shales. According to Mr. Marcou,1 the rock is a rose-
colored sandstone, the same which is seen along the valley leading from the pass of the Sierra
Madre. This rock appears to be a remnant of the wide table-lands, and stands alone, very
much like the Tucumcari hill in the valley of the Canadian. Its peculiar vertical bluffs, with
the flat, smooth side-faces, result entirely from natural causes — the erosion of the streams and
the slow, and indeed almost imperceptible wearing produced by the weather. The inscriptions
become exceedingly interesting to the geologist, for the evidence which they afford of the
remarkably slow disintegration of this sandstone. This rock, although soft enough to receive
the inscriptions with ease, has retained the finest lines of writing which was cut two hundred
and fifty years ago. The Indian hieroglyphics, alone, show the effects of long exposure, and
how great their age must be when the lapse of two hundred and fifty years does not suffice to
dim the clearness of an inscription.

These peculiar and isolated hills, with their level summits and inaccessible vertical sides, are
well fitted for the abode of warlike savage tribes, and the former inhabitants have not failed to
avail themselves of the advantages which they present. The stone which was used for con-
structing the buildings, the ruins of which are described by Lieutenant Whipple and others,
was probably quarried from the sides of the bluff.

Ojo Pescado. — A stream of lava extends across the route a short distance west of Inscription
rock, and another is found farther west, and this follows or lies along the bottom of the valley
which received and gave it its direction when it was a molten river of rock. Now, it is entirely
cold and covered by a soil resulting in part from its decomposition. The expedition followed
this grass-covered lava for fourteen miles, until it reached a break where a beautiful spring
gushes out and forms a running stream. Here, then, we have the usurpation of a river valley
by a river of melted rock which has obliterated all trace of the water for a long distance, but
which probably permits its underground flow, with but little or no diminution of its former
volume. The spring may be regarded as the reappearance of the stream after its long flow
under its rocky covering. Only a short distance below, a second and similar spring and stream
was found. Both of these springs were surrounded by ruins which are supposed to be very
ancient. They were probably built at those points in order to enjoy the water of the springs.
The lava stream was therefore much older than the buildings, as indeed is shown by its soil-
covered surface. It appears a very plausible explanation of the desertion of these once exten-
sive settlements, that incursions of lava dried up or covered the water-courses, destroyed agri-
cultural land, and drove the inhabitants away in alarm. It is not improbable that overflows
from the volcanoes of that region have taken place within the historic period; but, although the
streams, and indeed the great body of the lava, is very recent, the position of the ruins at this

1 Lieutenant Whipple's Report, p. 64.
8 Simpson's Navajo Report, p. 120.

40

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

and other places shows that the surface of the country was nearly the same as now at the time
of their erection.

Coal. — The sides of the valley above the lava are, according to Mr. Marcou's notes, of rose-
colored micaceous sandstone in beds from 15 to 40 feet thick. At the base of the cliff, how-
ever, blackish grey shales occur, containing beds of yellow limestone three feet thick. Several
beds of marl are very black and bituminous, and contain seams of coal from six inches to one
foot thick. Captain Whipple observes of this coal that the specimens appear good, but the
quantity is probably small. A specimen of it is in the collection, (see No. 98 of the catalogue,)
and a full description of it is given in Chapter X. The quality of this specimen is not good, it
being full of impurities and yielding a large quantity of ash. It more resembles recent
coals of the Tertiary formation, than the deposites of the Carboniferous period, but it is not
possible to decide upon its age.

Thirty miles north of this locality, and on the road to Fort Defiance, Mr. Campbell found
similar dark-colored shales, bituminous, and looking as if coal was in the vicinity. This is,
without doubt, the extension of the same deposite, as the whole country is formed alike and the
strata are horizontal. It is also most probable that the deposites of coal found by Lieutenant
Simpson, east of tbe Sierra Madre and north of the volcano San Mateo, are of similar age. The
beds at Laguna and Las Lunas, and which have already been noticed, (page 36) may also be
included. The bed noticed by Simpson is found in a table-mound, and is a horizontal layer
between two beds of sandstone. It was also overlaid by gypsum. The other bed, in the Canon
de la Copa, is one foot thick, and when broken shows resinous particles.1

The lava stream which forms the walls of the spring Ojo Pescado, appears to extend much
farther down the valley, and terminates a short distance beyond Camp No. 70. The Pescado
river passes under this lava for several miles, and again emerges, to be then known as the Bio
de Zuni.

Zuni and its vicinity. — The town of Zuni, a short distance beyond Camp 70, is upon the
borders of Zuni river, and, according to the observations of Mr. Marcou, is upon the Triassic
formation — the reddish clays and sandstones which contain the gypsum. Grey and white
sandstones are, however, found, but the bottom of the valley is entirely of rose or wine-colored
strata. (Notes, November 25.) The lighter-colored sandstones of Cretaceous or Tertiary age —
the Jurassic of Mr. Marcou — have been subjected to considerable erosion at this place, and a wide
valley is formed by the union of the smaller valleys of the affluents of trie Zuiii river, the
cliffs of the white sandstone being removed to some distance from the river on each side. The
ruins of Old Zuiii, about five miles southeast from Zuni, are, however, on the summit of a bluff
crowned by these strata. This bluff is said by Captain Whipple to be about 1,000 feet high,
and has a broad flat summit a mile wide, covered with thick cedars. It is, in fact, an isolated
mesa, limited on all sides by precipitous banks. These banks have been worn into many
fantastic shapes by the action of the weather for ages, and here and there arches and columns
are seen which seem to be the work of art, so regular and symmetrical are the outlines. The
annexed sketch, taken by Captain Whipple from a projecting part of the summit, shows these
peculiar forms, and has an additional interest from the fact that the column which stands alone
near the main bluff is connected with the traditionary legend of the Zuiiians. It is supposed to
be the petrified body of one of their tribe who was drowned to appease the Almighty at the time
of their flood. Another column is found near, but is not seen in the sketch.2 Very similar
columns are figured by Lieutenant Simpson and by other explorers ; indeed, they are very
common on the borders of the table-lands west of the Sierra Madre.

The explanation of the origin of these sandstone columns, and of the many other similar
shafts found in that region, is very simple. They are formed in the same manner as the

1 Simpson's Navajo Report, p. 72

a This tradition is interesting, and is another form in which the almost universal idea of a deluge is found among heathen
nations. The tradition is partly given by Lieutenant Simpson in his report, and more fully by Captain Whipple, p. 67.

TABLE-LANDS SANDSTONE AND FOSSILS ZUNI.

41

table-mounds, by tbe erosion or cutting of running water, which separates them from the
mound or bluff. The degradation or wearing of the sides proceeds more rapidly than the top,
so that they become gradually narrowed down to slender shafts, without becoming diminished
in height. They are beautiful monuments of the gentle but persistent action of the weather in
tbat climate.

NATURAL PINNACLE AND ARCH, ZUNI.

The table-lands both north and south of Zuni are dotted at intervals by remnants of the
upper strata, standing alone with flat summits. The yellow and white sandstones appear to
be gradually broken away and denuded from this point westward, becoming less continuous and
not presenting a thickness so great as farther east.

Fossils. — Between Camps No. 71 and 72, Mr. Marcou found some fossil-shells of the genus
Gryplicea, and the trail rose from the bed of the Zuni river to the top of the table -lands, where
the light-colored sandstones were again met and crossed. This plateau is between the Zuiii and
Puerco rivers.

Jacob's Well. — At Camp 73 a remarkable well was found. This is described by Captain
Whipple as a funnel-shaped depression, about three hundred feet wide at the top, and one
hundred and twenty-five feet deep. Water is found at the bottom. It was evidently not the
work of art, as there was no vestige of any removed earth around the pit. Several other pits
of a similar character were also seen in the vicinity. It is most probable that these depressions
are caused by the caving in of the ground over cavities or caverns, caused either by the flow of
subterranean streams or the gradual solution of thick beds of gypsum.

Mr. Marcou notes the occurrence in this vicinity of pebbles of red and yellow jasper. This
reminds the geologist of the "drift," found on the surface of the Llano and table-like hills
on the east of the Eio Grande valley.

Puerco of the west. — The Puerco river, like the Zuni, rises near the western base of the Sierra
Madre, and flows in a valley with vertical walls of sandstone strata towards the Colorado
Chiquito. After passing Jacob's Well the survey descends from the table-land over the reddish
sandstone strata to the bed of the stream. On this slope the alluvial pebbles of agate, jasper,
&c, and a fossil tree, were found.

Up to this point the upper or Cretaceous strata have been found to overlie the red sandstone
on all the table-lands ; but now broad areas are seen, composed of the red strata alone, and
6 t

42

GEOLOGICAL REPORT-

' THIRTY- FIFTH PARALLEL.

remnants of the upper strata are found only here and there in isolated hluffs. Thus we find
the conditions on this side of the Anahuachian chain very similar to those on the east, where
the Great Llano hreaks off into isolated hills and then disappears altogether. On the western
side, the transition is not quite so abrupt ; the strata appear to have been denuded more from
the surface downward, so as to thin out gradually without leaving long lines of hluffs or
escarpmente as on the Llano. The general limit of the formation is shown on the map,
although there are doubtless many isolated hills of the Cretaceous scattered over the plain and
not represented.

Extent of the table-lands zuest of the Sierra Madre. — This is a convenient point from which to
take a general view of the broad expanse of the great plain that lies between the Sierra
Madre and the mountains, which form the eastern rim of the Great Basin. From the Sierra
Madre up to this place, the survey followed the eroded valleys of the streams, and the vision
was bounded on both sides by their high and rocky banks, composed not only of the edges of
thick horizontal strata, but often capped with the harder and more unyielding solid lava. The
observer, as be passes westward from the mountains, is thus placed below the general level of
the plateau, which does not become apparent to him unless he stands upon the top of the mesas
and can thus cast the eye over the whole. The point already reached in the description is
about half way between the Sierra Madre and the high mountains of San Francisco, and here,
as we have seen, the upper strata of the plain are denuded and washed away, so that the banks
of the streams are not so high,, and the country appears more level or gently rolling. From
this place the vision is unbounded towards the north, except by the horizon. The plain
stretches far away, without any vestige of a mountain range. Indeed, it is the continuation of
this plateau which rises upon the flanks of the Park and Wasatch mountains at the far north,
and through which the waters of Grand and Green rivers cut their deep canoned channels.
Farther south, these streams unite to form the great Colorado, which is also found traversing
this grand plateau. The course of this river is marked by one of the most stupendous valleys
of erosion known to geologists. This is the great canon of which vague accounts have reached
us from time to time, and which yet remain to gratify the sight of some future explorer. This
great vertical cut through a vast thickness of horizontal strata must of necessity exhibit them
under circumstances peculiarly favorable to the geologist, who can there observe their succession
and thickness from the top to the bottom. It is believed, by those who are best qualified to
judge, that this canon in some places is not less than two or three thousand feet deep, the
sides being vertical. It is, therefore, probable that the edges of the Cretaceous, the underlying
red clay and gypsum formation, the coal measures and the carboniferous limestone are exposed
to view in a regular succession on the walls of this mighty chasm. Undoubtedly also the sum-
mit is crowned with more modern strata, the Tertiary, and then again by the outpourings of
lava from the adjoining volcanoes. What a mine of fossils from different chapters of the
world's history must be exposed here in readiness for the student ! It has been generally sup-
posed that this great canon was in granitic or eruptive rocks ; but this, I think, can scarcely be,
although it is undoubtedly true that rocks of this character are exposed at the base of the
bluffs. The approximate position of this canon is shown on Captain Whipple's map.

South of the line of survey the same plain extends until it reaches the Mogoyon mountains,
which appear to be its southern and southwestern boundary. According to Mr. Marcou the
strata dip away from this range, the heads of the beds being turned towards it. This dip is,
however, very slight, seldom or never exceeding ten degrees, as will be seen by Mr. Marcou's
notes.

Valley of the Colorado Chiquito. — The mineral characters of the strata exposed along the line,
in the valley of the Colorado Chiquito, do not appear to differ materially from those already
mentioned as characterizing the gypsum formation on the Atlantic slope. Gypsum, however,
does not appear to have been found in abundance on this part of the line. The presence of
thick beds of white and grey and bluish marls is mentioned by Mr. Marcou, and near Litho-

SILICIFIED WOOD LITHODENDRON CREEK.

43

dendron creek grey and pinkish sandstones were found in beds from three to six feet thiek, hut
even at this locality the red clay predominates. (Notes, December 3.)

Fossil wood and trees, Lithodendron creek. — After travelling a short distance down the Puerco,
on its northern bank, and crossing several tributary streams, the camp was pitched on the
borders of a stream to which Captain Whipple has given the name Lithodendron creek. At
this place, according to Captain Whipple, the banks are forty feet in height, and are composed
of red sandy marl. In these banks, and on the surface of the ground in the valley of the
creek, great numbers of well preserved fossil trees were found. Captain Whipple mentions
this deposite as quite a forest, the trunks lying prostrate and buried in marl. One trunk
measured ten feet in diameter, and was more than one hundred feet long. Mr. Marcou records
the occurrence of these fossils as follows : " Many fossil trees were seen ; some of them are four
feet in diameter, and are divided into blocks one to two feet long ; they are silicified and are
brilliantly colored. Some of them contain very clear quartz crystals on the round part of the
trunk." (See notes, December 2.) The following figure is from a sketch by Mr. Mollhausen,
and represents one of the prostrate trunks.

SILICIFIED TRUNK OF A TREE, LITHODENDRON CREEK.

Captain Whipple gives an interesting figure in his report, which serves to represent the
relative size of one of the trees, and a remarkably irregular surface. Captain Whipple, Mr. Moll-
hausen, and Mr. Campbell are of the opinion that the stumps of these trees are found there ;
and a sketch, by Mr, Mollhausen, of one of them is here given, together with an enlarged view

SILICIFIED STUMP AND BLOCK.

of one of the broken logs. This regular fracture, directly across the stony trunks, is very
peculiar, and was seen in all of the specimens. Mr. Campbell noticed these interesting relics
very particularly, and saw, as he thinks, several erect stumps. North of Camp 76 he found
the trees lying on the ground, and protruding from the bank at least one hundred feet below
the surface of the bluff.

The trees are mostly horizontal, and lying in various directions. One of them was found to
be forty feet long, and from three to four feet in diameter. This was merely the main trunk or
body of the tree, and no branches were seen ; it must therefore have been much larger originally.
After these trees are exposed, they seem to lose their solidity, and break up into angular frag-
ments. The trees were most numerous in the valley of the creek, hut they were found lying
on the surface above it. The outer portions are generally of a darker color than the interior, and
frequently rings of various colors, red, yellowish and grey, are found, which give a variegated
and pleasing aspect to these interesting remains of a former forest. Simpson, in his journal,
gives a description of a large fossil tree, and exhibits its various tints by a colored lithograph

44

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

Fragments are also found in the detritus from Leroux's fork and other small streams coming
down from the plains at the north. Several specimens of these fossil trees are in the collection,
and they exhihit a pleasing variety of color and grain. Some are much more perfectly pre-
served than others ; and the rings of annual growth, the medullary rays, and the cells, are
distinctly and heautifully preserved, and can be clearly seen by the naked eye.

One of the specimens, which is very compact, and homogeneous, and as hard as rock-crystal,
presents a variety of colors, and resembles a beautiful agate. One side is of a deep carne-
lian-red color, and the other is nearly transparent and colorless, but has a milky or semi-
opaline whiteness, like specimens of calcedony. Intermediate portions of the mass are yellow-
ish, and streaks of red, brown, and yellow are found in almost all parts of it. At first sight,
the specimen appeared to be an agate and devoid of structure, but the parallelism of several
threads or streaks of dark brown running through one end of the specimen invited a closer
examination, and in this the beautiful ligneous fibre was found perfectly preserved; and when a
plate was polished, the woody structure was most distinctly shown. In some portions of tbe
specimen, however, — especially in the white and nearly transparent parts — the structure was
almost wholly obliterated, and if these parts alone had been collected their vegetable origin
would not have been suspected. The variety of color presented by this mass, and the exquisite
preservation of the minutest fibre and cell of the former wood in dense glassy silica, and the
absence of all open cells or pores, rendered it peculiarly suitable for cutting and polishing, and
several ornamental stones cut from it for bracelets, &c, are very beautiful. Another specimen,
also very dense and beautifully preserved, shows the effect of pressure and fracture after the
silicification was complete, or during its progress. Fragments of the wood are seen separated
from each other, and firmly imbedded in dense white silica, which was infiltrated, and is dis-
posed in concentric layers, agate-like in the larger spaces. The polished surface of this speci-
men is exceedingly beautiful, every pore and fibre of the wood being well preserved, and the
angular fragments being set in the white agate base, so as to form a perfect mosaic. Thin
slices have been cut by the lapidary from all these specimens, in different directions, so as to
permit the structure of the cells and fibres to be studied under the microscope. These slices
are ground very thin and are highly polished, so that they readily transmit the light. They
have been placed in the hands of Professor Schaeffer, of Washington, for examination and
description.

Drift. — Beyond this remarkable locality of silicified trees, the ground in many places was
found to be strewed with their fragments, and these were mingled with pebbles of agate and
jasper, the whole forming a mass of detritus or drift which was occasionally very abundant.
Several specimens of these rolled pebbles are in the collection, and consist of compact red and
yellowish jaspery rocks, one of them being cut in every direction by a multitude of thin quartz
veins, from the thickness of paper to one-eighth of an inch, which form a net-work and enclose
the masses of compact red jasper. This stone when polished exhibits the veins distinctly, and
yields beautiful ornamental stones. That the mass was thoroughly solidified before it became
traversed by the quartz veins, is clearly shown by the sharp angles at the intersection of the
fissures and by the numerous faults along some of the veins, showing that they are of different
ages. Mr. Marcou also mentions the occurrence in the drift and in the streams of numerous
carboniferous fossils, much rolled and worn by attrition. These he supposed to have been
transported from the mountains in the south — the Sierra Mogoyon or Sierra Blanca. The
strata also, further on, appeared to dip away from this range towards the north.

From Lithodendron creek westward, along the valley of the Colorado Chiquito, the red sand-
stones and red marls were found on both sides, and the upper or lighter-colored strata entirely
disappeared or were present only here and there in isolated mounds far from the trail. Below
the point where the stream was crossed, several buttee, supposed to be volcanic or basaltic, were
seen on the right bank.

CHAPTER V.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE GEOLOGY OE THE ROUTE.

FROM THE COLORADO CHIQTJITO TO SAN PEDRO.

From the Colorado chiquito to the great Colorado. — Magnesian limestone. — Canon diablo in limestone. — Similar lime-
stone at other places. — Granite, older than the magnesian limestone. — Extinct tolcano, called san franciscg
mountain. — Lava streams. — Secondary cones. — Volcanic ashes.- — Direction and extent op the lava streams. — Sand-
stone.— Bill "Williams' mountain, volcanic. — Its lava streams. — Carboniferous limestone. — Picacho, or granite.- — Car-
boniferous LIMESTONE AND FOSSILS. AzTEC MOUNTAINS. HORIZONTAL STRATA FORMING A CLIFF. LAVA. CYGNUS MOUNTAIN.

Aquarius mountains. — Gneiss and metamorphic rocks. — Tertiary strata. — Trap dykes. — Valley of the hawilhamook. —
Cerbat mountains. — Volcanic rocks. — Colorado river. — Colorado river to san pedro. — Granitic ranges. — Great
basin. — Soda lake and mojave river. — Nature of the incrustation. — Sand-dunes. — Metamorphic rocks. — Soil of
the slopes. — Cajon Pass. — Sandstone, probably tertiary. — Granite and metamorphic rocks. — Tertiary strata. —
Fossils. — Eecent elevation. — Bitumen and tar springs. — Trap-rock. — Alluvial.

I. COLORADO CHIQUITO TO THE GREAT COLORADO.

Magnesian limestone. — After crossing the Colorado Chiquito and ascending the western bank
as far as Camp 86, Mr. Marcou found sub-schistose red sandstone with ripple-marks, and red
clay. These were underlaid by a magnesian limestone, or thick dolomite, stratified regularly in
beds six inches to one foot in thickness. These strata were conformable with the red sandstones,
and, like them, were inclined towards the north, at an angle of ten to fifteen degrees. Some
of these limestone beds alternate with the sandstone, and were fossiliferous, but the fossils were
very badly preserved. (Notes, December 22.) This limestone was found along the trail con-
tinuously for four miles, when it was hid from sight by sheets of lava. A specimen of lime-
stone from the Colorado Chiquito (No. 62) is probably from this locality. A description of it
will be found in Chapter X.

This limestone forms a broad mesa or table-land just south of Camps 86 and 87, and this was
traversed by Mr. Campbell and Captain Whipple. The former describes the limestone as
exactly like that afterwards found further west, and which contained fossils characteristic of
the Carboniferous period. The stream or valley called Canon Diablo is in this rock. The beds
dip gently towards the north, and thus do not form any bluff towards the river ; but the borders
of the Canon Diablo are precipitous, and the bluffs in some places are one hundred feet high,
and entirely of limestone. Captain Whipple describes this canon, in his report, as a chasm one
hundred feet deep, with sides so precipitous that it was impassable. The surface around was
nearly level, and the canon could not be seen until its very brink was reached. From here,
westward, the surface of the country appeared nearly level. Similar limestone was seen at
Camp 90, just at the southern base of the great volcano. Still further west, a similar limestone
formed the sides of the ravine called Parke creek, north of Camp No. 94. These several out-
crops of horizontal, or nearly horizontal, limestone strata, at very nearly the same level, indi-
cate that they form one continuous bed ; and this is rendered more probable by the similar
mineral character of the rock at the different places. It is difficult to decide upon the geo-
logical age of this limestone, which is not represented in the collection by fossils, unless we
regard the outcrop found near Camp No. 96 as a portion of the same bed. This outcrop is also

46

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

called magnesian limestone by Mr. Marcou ; but he found in it the fossils characteristic of the
mountain limestone or lower Carboniferous.

Granite. — Near Camp 90, just at the soutbern base of the volcano, an outcrop of granitic
rock was found. This, according to Mr. Marcou, was " a great mountain of red sienitic rock ;"
and Captain Whipple states, page 80, that the volcano terminates at the southeast in a gigantic
mass of granite. I have, therefore, represented an outcrop of this rock on the map and section.
The magnesian limestone was found in horizontal beds a short distance below ; hence I infer
that the granite is older than it. It is very probable that Mount Kendrick and Mount Sitgreaves,
on the west of the volcano, are of granite also, and connected with the first-mentioned outcrop.
According to Mr. Campbell, Mount Kendrick is composed of chocolate-colored porphyry. I
regret that there are no specimens from these rocks in the collection.

Extinct volcano, called San Francisco Mountain. — In the preceding observations on the outcrops
of limestone and granite, we passed rapidly from the banks of the Colorado Chiquito to a point
several miles west of the great volcano, now extinct. This cone rises north of the line followed
by the expedition, and is on the left bank of the Colorado Chiquito. It is unfortunate that this
lofty and imposing peak cannot be distinguished by a name which will not lead to endless mis-
apprehension of its position. Nearly all who are not aware of its existence, will, on seeing its
name, conceive it to be near the great city of the same name on the Pacific. If the Indian
name can be ascertained, it should be adopted. The trail of the expedition passes directly at
the southern base of the mountain, over the limestone and granite already described, and in
many places over the streams of congealed lava.

The peak is a prominent land-mark to the traveller in passing westward over the plains beyond
the Sierra Madre. It was seen by Captain Whipple, for a long distance, and was used as a
guiding pillar for the survey. Its elevation was estimated as about 5,000 feet above the plain,
or 12,000 feet above the sea. In form or outline it is not remarkably regular, but yet has a
general conical shape. The flanks are covered with congealed lava streams, which extend far
from its base and cover a wide area of the surrounding plains. The line of survey first reached
this lava between Camps 86 and 87, where the limestone was left, and the ascent upon the
surface of the lava commenced. From this point onward, until the mountain was passed, the
road led over a succession of lava streams or broad beds which covered the underlying strata
from view. Before the base of the principal mountain was reached, numerous secondary cones
or outlying vents for the lava were found. These were near Camp 87, and, according to Captain
Whipple, are beautifully regular in form, and one of them appears to have broken away at one
side, permitting a stream of lava to flow from it in a serpentine course. This has hardened in its
bed, and now reveals the motions to which it was subjected, almost as distinctly as if it had flowed
down but yesterday. This lava is of a black color, and very hard, but in some places is decom-
posed on the surface so as to form a soil, which appears to be particularly favorable for the
growth of the nutritious grama grass. A portion of the lava is cellular and porous, and
between Camps 88 and 89 volcanic ashes were found. This was also abundant towards Camp
90, almost directly south of the great cone. Mr. Marcou also records the presence of numerous
basaltic dykes and reddish lava. Amygdaloidal trap was found at Leroux's spring, and beyond.
The principal flow of lava from this volcano, and its numerous cones, appears to have been
towards the east, where it has spread out even to the banks of the Colorado Chiquito at the Cas-
cades, several miles north of the point where it was crossed by the survey. The flow in this
direction is in accordance with the present relief of the surface, and shows that at the period of
eruption the valley had very nearly its present form.

Sandstone. — Mr. Campbell informs me that the limestone south of the volcano is covered in
many places by mounds or table-hills of a light-colored sandstone in horizontal beds. This is
not described by Mr. Marcou. It may be the continuation of the lower beds seen at the crossing
of the Colorado Chiquito.

Bill Williams' Mountain. — This peak is probably another extinct volcano of great extent. It

CAKBONIFEROUS FOSSILS GEANITB AZTEC MOUNTAINS.

47

rises about forty miles southwest of San Francisco mountain, and, like it, has poured out im-
mense fields of lava which cover nearly the whole region. The first stream from this crater
was crossed at the head-waters of Parke creek, just beyond Camp No. 95, but the most extensive
overflow was not found until the survey reached the head-waters of Partridge creek, at Camp
97, the lava being continous from this point to the Picacho, or Camp 99, a distance of twenty
miles. The greatest flow from this mountain appears to have been towards the north or north-
west. The lava extends north of the trail, and spreads out at the base of an eminence called
Pineveta, which is probably of stratified rocks.

Carboniferous limestone.— The*"occurrence of limestone containing carboniferous fossils, near
Camp No. 95, has already been mentioned. Mr. Marcou found at this locality three or four beds
filled with fossils like those at the Pecos villages. He enumerates them in his notes as Pro-
duces reticulatus, P. punctatus, Spirifer, Terebratula, and Polypi. These were very abundant
and formed a lumachel. Some fossils from this locality are in the collection, but they are so
badly preserved, that their specific characters cannot be determined. It is doubtless the carbon-
iferous limestone. It would appear that this limestone extended for several miles along the
trail, and was found beyond Camp 96. It will be seen, on looking at the map, that the lime-
stone called magnesian, along Parke creek, is in close proximity with these outcrops.

After leaving the carboniferous limestone beyond Camp 96, the trail passed over a bed of lava,
and then Mr. Marcou found sandstone strata dipping from sixty to eighty degrees, and trending
northwesterly. He considered this sandstone to belong to the upper Carboniferous formation.
He describes the strata as hard and schistose, harder than the "New Bed" sandstone of the
prairies. Beyond the sandstone, lava was found, it being the eastern edge of the broad overflow
proceeding from Bill Williams' mountain, on the south. This lava covers all the subjacent rocks
for twenty miles, except in the ravine of Partridge creek, which cuts through the lava and ex-
poses in many places a greyish-white limestone, probably carboniferous. At Camp 99, which is
on the western border of the field of lava, carboniferous sandstone is again found, with beds
dipping north.

Granite. — A mountain called Picacho was visible a few miles north of Camp 99. This was
thought to be granitic by Mr. Marcou ; it was also the opinion of Mr. Campbell. The outline of
the view on page 85 of Captain Whipple's report, tends to confirm it. One mile southwest of
Camp 99, or at Camp 100, outcrops of granite and gneiss were found. This rock trends north-
west and southeast, and forms the bottom of the Val de China. This granite was covered by
the beds of carboniferous sandstone. Limestone was not noted. I find two specimens of granite
in the collection from the Camp near Picacho,, Nos. 23 and 36 of the catalogue. The granite is
rose-colored, and one specimen contains a light silvery mica in distinct plates ; the other has a
much finer grain, and is so granular as to resemble sandstone. Two other specimens are from
this locality — Nos. 52 and 53 — labelled basalt and obsidian. They appear to be transported
fragments.

Carboniferous limestone. — Seventeen miles southwest of this outcrop of granite, Mr. Marcou
notes a table-land formed of carboniferous limestone, at the foot of which the party encamped.
The trail continued at the base of this cliff for nine miles. Mr. Marcou mentions seeing crinoids
and some species of Productus in the creek. He also mentions an outcrop of carboniferous
sandstone before reaching Camp 102.

Aztec Mountains. — We have now reached a portion of the line where the geology becomes ex-
ceedingly interesting. Since Camp 99, the course of the survey deflected south in order to turn
a southern point of the Aztec mountains. These mountains trend northwest and southeast,
and have a flat, table-like summit, composed of stratified rocks dipping gently to the east or
northeast. These strata present a bold precipitous front towards the southwest, forming in one
place the summit of a cliff 1,200 feet high. This cliff, according to Mr. Marcou, in his notes,
January 22, is composed of granite from the base to the middle ; on this rests a bed of sandstone
then limestone and grey sandstone on the top. The relations of the strata to the underlying

48

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

granite, and the general configuration of that region, may he understood by the section given
with the translation of Mr. Marcou's notes.

The cliff of limestone which is mentioned hetween Camps 100 and 102 is prohahly a continu-
ation of the hed which outcrops on the western face of the mountain. The granite which under-
lies these stratified rocks was reached in Aztec Pass, just beyond Camp 102. A specimen of this
rock from Pueblo creek is an amorphous compact mass, of a reddish color, probably feldspathic.
It is marked metamorphic by Mr. Marcou, but its mineral characters are not distinct. Speci-
mens of specular iron ore were also found in this creek, and are described in Chapter X. The
outcrop of granite appears to be prolonged towards the southeast, where a range of mountains
was seen, which are probably the prolongation of the Aztec range, and which in all probability
have a similar geological structure.

After crossing the range at the Aztec Pass, the trail turned north, following the base of the
cliff, and at Camp 105 rising upon the bed of sandstone which underlies the carboniferous lime-
stone. Camp 106 was upon the limestone, but, for a short distance between the two camps, the
road led over a field of lava. The underlying granite was found beyond Camp 106, and, with
a few exceptions, where covered by lava and modern deposites, was the only rock seen as far west
as the Aquarius mountains. The nearly horizontal carboniferous strata of the Aztec mountains
were found to be continuous north of the trail, and formed the top of Cross mountain, which
terminates just north of Camp 109.

Cygnus Mountain. — About ten miles south of the part of the route just described we find a
range of high peaks about twelve miles long, and which are probably volcanic. This elevation
has been called Cygnus mountain by Captain Whipple, and is probably the source of the lava
streams which are crossed at various points between Camps 105 and 110. The lava probably
covers the greater part of the surface lying between the Aztec and Aquarius mountains. Mr.
Marcou calls this elevation Whipple mountain. He considers it volcanic, but intermixed with
granite.

Aquarius Mountains. — This range, of which a physical description has already been given in
the first part of this report, consists chiefly of granitic and metamorphic rocks. It has a gen-
eral parallelism with the Aztec mountains, but is without the overlying carboniferous strata,
which impart so much interest to that range. The survey crosses the northern portion of this
range along the valley of White Cliff creek, to which the name Cactus Pass has been given.
On the eastern side of the pass Mr. Marcou found outcrops of gneiss, overlaid by sandstone
and conglomerate, which dipped to the east. The conglomerate appears to be a mixture of
volcanic ash and angular fragments of lava. It was thought to be Tertiary by Mr. Marcou.
Granite was found beyond, and then beds of sandstone and limestone, also considered Tertiary,
were found. These strata were upheaved, and dykes of trap and red porphyry traversing
them were found. The trend of these outcrops was north and south. At the summit of the
pass Mr. Marcou found a large vein of red sienite trending north and south ; afterwards gneiss
and quartziferous porphyry, traversed by veins of white quartz. The gneiss is contorted and
dips to the west. Granite was again found as far as Camp 112, in the valley of Bill Williams'
fork, at the base of the western slope. The granitic rocks of the Aquarius mountains are well
represented in the collection. (See the catalogue and descriptions, Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 29,
and 50.) No. 11 is a specimen of the rock from the summit of the pass ; it is composed of coarse
crystalline fragments of brilliant red feldspar and white translucent quartz, with a little dark
mica. No. 9, from the eastern side of Cactus Pass, is a compact rose-colored granite. The line
of survey in following down the valley of Bill Williams' fork, called Big Sandy creek by Mr.
Marcou, passed along the western base of the Aquarius mountains for fifty miles. But the
range was not crossed again, and few or no additional specimens were collected.

Valley of the Hawilhamooh or Bill Williams' fork. — In descending the valley of Bill Williams'
fork, Mr. Marcou noted drift deposites on each side of the trail, which appeared to extend
west as far as the foot of the Cerbat mountains on the opposite side of the river. This drift

CERBAT MOUNTAINS VOLCANIC ROCKS STRIPED CANON.

49

was continuous along the valley, and between Camps 113 and 114 was found very thick, con-
taining large pebbles. The next day, Mr. Marcou found its thickness to be 1,000 feet. The
presence of this diluvium is again noted at many points along the river down to its junction with
the Great Colorado.

Cerbat Mountains. — This range is parallel with the Aquarius mountains, and forms the western
side of the valley of the Hawilhamook. The rocks are similar to those of the Aquarius
mountains. Two or three specimens were found in the collection. One of them, No. 14, is a
beautiful flesh-colored granite, containing dark -colored mica. Another, No. 17, is gneissose,
and probably metamorphic. A beautiful specimen of fibrous hematite — specular iron — was
found in this range. It is a variety called bloodstone by jewellers, and a description of it may
be found in Chapter X, No. 91. Some of the lower ridges of this range of mountains were
crossed between Camps 115 and 120. Between Camps 115 and 116 these ridges were of granite
and gneiss, which were traversed by veins of quartz and feldspar. Between Camps 118 and
119 Mr. Marcou observed granite containing large crystals of white and rose-colored feldspar,
also quartziferous red porphyry and dykes of quartz and trap, trending north 70 degrees west.
Near Camp 120 an extensive outcrop of trap-rock was found, which, according to Mr. Marcou,
formed two great mountains.

Volcanic rocks, Artillery Peak. — Opposite Camp 117 a perpendicular cliff, capped with a
layer of basaltic lava, was found. This appeared to have flowed from the northeast, and
formed a mesa or table-land, which was also seen between Camps 117 and 118. At Camp 119
a high cone was found upon the right. This appeared to be volcanic, and was called Artillery
Peak. An interesting figure of it is given on page 103 of Captain Whipple's report. Mr.
Marcou observes that this mountain is pointed, and has blackish sides like volcanic lava. It is
most probable that the lava proceeded from this point. This mountain, as will be seen by
reference to the map, rises at the southern end of the Cerbat range, and from this point the
river turns to the west. There is also opposite to this point a considerable break in the
Aquarius range, through which the Santa Maria river flows from the northeast. In a direction
southeast from Camp 121, an extensive valley or plain was seen. This was bounded on the
east by the prolongation of the Aquarius mountains, and on the west by the continuation of a
chain parallel with the Cerbat range, but which is intermediate between it and the Colorado
river. The end of this range was crossed between Camps 122 and 123, and the pass is called
Striped Canon. Captain Whipple gives the following description of the rocks which are found
there : " Soon after starting we entered a chasm cut through a dyke of greenstone, with horizon-
tal veins of granite and white quartz. The vertical section was variegated like jasper. The
rock in some places rose in vertical planes to the height of 300 feet. Upon the top it was
broken, presenting, sometimes, a fancied resemblance to Gothic architecture."1

Mr. Marcou states that the rocks are metamorphic and somewhat plicated, but the trend is
preserved. He further observes that the rocks are of quartzite, whitened by veins alternating
with brown, black, and green mica-schists. (Notes, February 15.) Veins of iron ore were also
found in the canon.

The course of the river in its passage across the Striped Canon is exceedingly tortuous, but
after emerging from the canon turns to the north and follows the valley of the river leading to
the Great Colorado. The trail which follows this valley thus passes northwesterly at the west-
ern base of the range just described. In this valley Mr. Marcou observed a great development of
drift deposites. Near Camp 124, he notes the occurrence of red pudding-stone and Tertiary
red sandstones. These strata are raised up, and Mr. Marcou has recorded the presence of
trappean rocks in the vicinity, to which we may refer their uplifted condition.

Basaltic lava. — The lower part of the valley of the Hawilhamook is contracted by the presence
of thick beds of basalt crowning the summits of the mesas. This rock was first observed near

1 Report of Captain Whipple, Itinerary, p. 105.

It

50

GEOLOGICAL KEPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

Camp 125, and below Camp 126 the lava formed the summit of perpendicular cliffs on both
sides of the river, ranging from two hundred to four hundred feet in height. The base of the
cliffs is formed of red argillaceous sandstone, and above it of red conglomerate. The narrowest
part of this canon is about four hundred yards wide. Mr. Marcou also noticed gneiss and
talcose schist. A wood engraving representing this canon is given by Captain Whipple, page
108. According to Mr. Campbell, this lava extends on the south bank of the river as far
as the Great Colorado, and even beyond it, on the opposite side, for a long distance. The strata
which are thus overlaid by lava are probably identical in age with those of a similar nature
seen higher up the river, which Mr. Marcou considered Tertiary.

LATA BLUFFS ON THE HAWILHAMOOK.

The bluffs represented in the above sketch are on the south side of the Hawilhamook, at Camp
126. They rise from eight hundred to one thousand feet above the stream. The base of the
bluff consists of strata of red sandstone and conglomerate, but the upper and thickest layer is of
basaltic lava. The sketch indicates that this rocky roof, or covering for the softer strata below,
is itself liable to rapid decomposition and degradation by the weather.

Valley of the Colorado river and mouth of the Hawilhamook, or Bill Williams' fork. — Beyond
the narrow canon in the basalt, the strata of red sandstone and conglomerate are continuous,
with occasional interruptions to the mouth of the river. Near this point they were upraised,
and dipped westward at an angle of twenty degrees. They occur again between Camps 128 and
129, on the western bank of the Colorado river, where they also dip to the west at the same
angle. Mr. Marcou also mentions vast hills of drift. This is very probably detritus from the
surrounding mountains.

The valley of the Colorado is narrow, and hemmed in on both sides by rugged granitic mount-
ains, which are parallel with the Aquarius and Cerbat ranges. The prevailing trend is north

VALLEY OP THE HAWILHAMOOK, AND THE GREAT COLORADO.

51

30 to 45 degrees west, and the ranges appear much broken into ridges. It is most proba-
ble-that the range on the east of the stream is a prolongation of the range through which
the Hawilhamook flows at the place called Striped Canon. As the survey followed the valley of
the river, the rocks composing these mountains were not very extensively examined, but the
granite composing them was seen at several projecting spurs which reach to the river,, and were
crossed. On one of these points Mr. Marcou mentions the occurrence of red porphyry and
gneiss, and at another place porphyry, trap-rock, gneiss and granite, and serpentinoid granite,
or protogine, were found between Camps 129 and 130. At the base of the mountains, strata of
red sandstone and conglomerate were found in connexion with basaltic and amygdaloidal trap.
These are much uplifted and metamorphosed near Camp 129. Beyond Camp 131 similar strata
were found. These strata were believed by Marcou to be Tertiary, and probably are similar to
those found along the valley and at the mouth of the Hawilhamook.

BANKS OF THE HAWILIIAMOOK.

»

The above sketch was taken about six miles above the mouth of the stream, and serves to
show the rugged and desolate appearance of its rocky banks. In engraving the sketch, the
peculiar characteristics of the different rock formations were lost, and the whole seem formed
alike.

II. COLORADO RIVER TO SAN PEDRO.

In turning west from the valley of the Colorado, the ascent of the range of mountains bound-
ing it on the west was commenced. These have a peculiarly rugged outline, and Mr. Marcou
observes of them that they are extremely abrupt, and have peaks as in the Alps. The same
singularly serrated outline, which has the greatest resemblance to the teeth of a saw, is seen in
the mountains around the Colorado desert, and on the Colorado north and west of Fort Yuma.

52

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

In ascending this range, the dry valley of a stream was followed in a northwest direction,
which heing the same as the trend of the ridges, the rocks were not fully exposed to view. Mr.
Marcou notes of the range that it is four miles wide. Trap and metamorphic conglomerate
was ohserved in crossing, and an extended inclined plain composed chiefly of the debris of
the surrounding granitoid rocks. Beyond this .range Mr. Marcou notes a second, which,
between Camps 136 and 137, was composed of red metamorphic conglomerate, covered by black
and shining phonolitic and basaltic trap. A great development of trap-rock was seen in
crossing the chain, and beyond it a broad and elevated plateau was found to extend to the base
of the third range. This plateau is composed of the debris of erupted rocks, and in several
places is covered with a whitish brecciated limestone. This is in horizontal strata, and was
considered Tertiary by Mr. Marcou.

The third chain, according to Mr. Marcou's notes, is five or six miles wide, and is composed
of a very hard hornblendic granite, and of a whitish dioritic rock. Amphibolic granite was
noted on the eastern base. A specimen from this range is in the collection, (No. 54 ;) it may
be called a quartz porphyry. This range is separated from another — the fourth — by an inclined
plain, as before, which was composed of the debris of granite. The fourth range appeared to be
composed, at the base, of a hornblendic granite, similar to that in the third. In crossing it, or
from Camp 140 to 141, quartziferous granite was found to outcrop for twelve miles, and was
succeeded by a large exposure of trap and greenstone. Mr. Marcou also records the presence
of a great body of drift, forming a bank eight hundred feet thick. This consisted of sand and
large blocks but little rolled. I judge that this accumulation is similar to those found around
the bases of the mountains of the Great Basin, especially on those forming its southern
boundary. In crossing the range Mr. Marcou saw seven or eight cones, of a red color, about
ten miles northward, and he believed them to be volcanic. This fourth ridge, or range, bordered
the valley of the Mojave on the east. The Soda lake, into which the Mojave sometimes flows,
is directly at its western base. We have thus crossed, in our descriptions, from the Colorado
river to the Great Basin, within which the Soda lake is found.

Although in the descriptions four distinct ranges of mountains have been mentioned, they
may, for the purposes of geology, be considered as forming one great chain of a composite
character. The rocks in each are similar, and they are connected by the same formations,
underneath the superficial covering of tertiary and post-tertiary sedimentary accumulations,
which fill the valleys and flank all the ridges. If this slight covering of earth and of local
detritus and debris were subjected to a powerful denuding current for a short time, they would
all be removed, and expose a continuous but rugged granite surface, traversed, of course, as we
have already seen, by numerous dykes and veins of intrusive rocks — trap, porphyry, and the
like. Having myself explored the rocks along the Mojave and of the southern end of the Great
Basin between the Mojave and the Sierra Nevada, I am enabled to be more positive and general
in the description of this region. From all the information I can obtain, both from Captain
Whipple and Mr. Campbell, I conclude that the system of parallel ranges, the geological
structure of which has been given in a general way, corresponds very nearly with the ranges
found throughout the Great Basin, and which have generally received the title of Lost Mountains,
from the fact that they do not extend continuously for very great distances, but may be avoided
by a slight detour either north or south. This structure is exceedingly interesting not only to
the civil engineer who seeks practicable grades, but to the geologist who reads the former exist-
ence of stratified formations, now plicated and folded in great waves, and traversed by intrusive
masses of granite.

This broken character of the mountains, together with their sharp, ragged outlines, render
the scenery of that region highly peculiar.

The effect is heightened by the purity of the air and the deep coloring which distant mountains
assume and change each hour in the day. The absence of vegetation, the nakedness of the

mmm river soda tAKE_GEEiT BASIII

V^^^i BASIN.

valley of the mojave.

mi THE GREAT BASIN

^^W,^^ * «» s»rrey „n the 8th otmhr

to make a special exl a Ln ^ /l™7 °f Lieute°»' Wil Lm on IV™ * Pr°Wem Wlli<*
reports that the ™Z ^ ^ bil ^ of sur^ev for T' was °ommi,sioBttJ

* by tri eth"r:he ^rr" * a° isii nis

Colorado. It was rtn, .1 ^"g11 which there is no outW fm- * ke' and which

«thout a eonnlln :it?°tl: is VSTS? " , *■» * *

opposition that the/o lve w» '.a!d ia ««> dry sands „f ?> * rad°' bl" » ™er

Basin were considered ut l , ? "buta^ of Colorado the « BaS,n' I7"^ the
-tending like^X^1,^h« «■* than was at fit tZ^^.^ ^ «-at
The establishment h/1? T UtMmt> ne"r the parallel of 38° 7 ■ ' d a dlvi<I'°S rid-e
Colorado, at once est 2^' « the *- the Mo ^ "I- the map's

The Soda lake is ,J^^*md.'ui" * *• Basin' ** nt" c°'™™icate with The
below its general surface. It alt Z *" 'he wMe of the R ■

unclance of water was found. This was

54

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

saturated with salt, and Captain Whipple states that it was highly alkaline and effervesced freely
with acids. This salt and carbonate of soda is doubtless derived from surrounding strata of
Tertiary age.

Moving sand — Sand-dunes. — Extensive fiel of dry sand, drifted hy the winds, were encoun-
tered on the western side of the fourth range, or mountains horderiDg the Soda lake on the east.
Captain Whipple states that the surface of this sand was compact and hard — so hard that the
train passed easily and rapidly over it. " In the midst of this harren plain were low, isolated
ridges of rocky hills, upon the northwest sides of which sand was piled nearly to the tops, show-
ing the direction of the prevailing winds."1

Mr. Marcou records the presence of sand on the opposite side of the Soda lake, and says that
it rose upon the mountains on each side. Sand-dunes were afterwards found on approaching
the Mormon trail.

Mountains between the Soda lake and the Mormon trail. — The eastern houndary of the Soda
lake is a range of mountains which Mr. Marcou notes as the the fifth chain. At the hase of
these mountains, metamorphic rocks, porphyroid greenstone, and quartz veins were ohserved.
These rocks appear to constitute the mass of the range. A deposite of "drift" from eight
hundred to one thousand feet in thickness was also observed. In this the pebbles were small,
and were intermingled with sand, forming a conglomerate. (See notes, March 10.) Between
Camps 146 and 147 metamorphic rocks and roseate porphyry were seen, and similar rocks were
continuous to Camp 148. Mica schists and trap-rock were found along the river, near the point
where the Mormon road diverges. At this place, or on the right hank of the stream, I myself
ohserved the rocks carefully and found them to consist of highly laminated gneiss, succeeded
on the west hy compact granite, traversed in different directions by many large veins composed
of feldspar and quartz. The gneissoid rock is evidently metamorphic, and the planes of strati-
fication are nearly vertical.

Mojave river to the Cajon Pass. — On leaving the Mojave river the line of the survey followed
a long, gently ascending slope for about twenty-one miles, to the summit of the Bernardino
Sierra. Near the river, hluffs of horizontal strata of clay and sand are seen. These are
prohahly of Tertiary age, and they are overlaid by the more recent deposites which form the
slope. This detritus or wash from the surrounding hills is composed of gravel and fine sand
and clay. The gravel and sand are not rounded and siliceous as in the heds of streams, hut
are angular, and result from the gradual disintegration of the surrounding granitic mountains.
A great portion of it is, therefore, feldspar, and from its decomposition a soil is formed, rich in
the mineral ingredients required by vegetation. In ascending this slope a manifest change is
ohserved in the soil. It becomes much more coarse, and frequently fragments of rocks of con-
siderable size are seen, while on the lower portions fine sand and gravel only are visible. This
difference in the state of division of the ingredients of the soil is to he attributed to the same
causes which have produced the slope — the transportation of the debris of the mountains hy
streams, which rise in the high ravines and pour out upon the lower ground at the base,
depositing the heavier rocks and detritus on the upper portions of the slope where the current
is the most rapid and forcible, and carrying the finer portions to a greater distance.

Cajon Pass, in the Bernardino Sierra. — In ascending from the Mojave river to the Cajon Pass
the road is upon the gravelly materials of the slope up to the very summit, which is itself
composed of the rudely stratified materials flanking the mountains. At this point these
materials form a bluff above five hundred feet high, which faces the south, or the Pacific slope of
the mountains. No granitic rocks appear within more than half a mile of the crest of the pass
where it is crossed by the road. On descending the bluff by a steep and winding road, outcrops
of a coarse-grained feldspathic sandstone are found with the strata strongly inclined, and lower
down the pass the strata rise into hills and present fine exposures. The inclination is about

1 Captain Whipple's Report, p. 123.

METAMORPHIC ROCKS TERTIARY — SAN PEDRO BITUMEN.

55

forty-five degrees, and appears to be from the granitic rocks forming the high ridges on the
west side of the pass. The materials forming these strata appear to have been derived from
the abrasion of granitic and metamorphic rocks, many large fragments of them being found in
some of the beds. All the strata have a light pink or flesh-red color, which appears to be
caused by the pink feldspar. The weather has fashioned these outcrops into sharply-pointed
pinnacles, and in other places worn holes and openings through the beds, so that a little soil or
earth has found a lodgment, and serves to support shrubbery and vines. No fossils were found
in these strata ; they were evidently deposited in water much affected by currents. Their
aspect is very modern, and they are probably Tertiary.1

Granitic and metamorphic rocks. — Although the granitic rocks do not appear at the summit,
they rise in high ridges on each side of the valley of the pass. In the higher ridges they are
generally very compact, and yet give evidences of being to a great extent metamorphic. Large
blocks of a white crystalline limestone were found in the bed of the creek, but no outcrops
were seen. These fragments exhibit bands and lines of deposition, and show the metamorphic
character of the parent mass.

In the lower parts of the pass the rocks approach nearer on each side, and the sandstone
strata disappear. The stream flows down over the outcrops of granite, gneiss and similar
rocks, in a narrow rugged channel. At the base of the mountains, talcose and micaceous slates
occur, similar to those in the pass of San Francisquito, further west.

Slope to the Pacific. — From the base of the mountains the survey follows a long and gentle
descent to the Pacific over formations of comparatively modern origin. The surface is formed of
post-tertiary accumulations overlying tertiary strata. These strata appear in hills not far from
Los Angeles, and are mainly composed of white clay or marls and sand. Several outcrops
along the road to the mission of San Fernando are white and chalk-like, and appear to have
been quarried into under the supposition that they were limestone. The rock is compact and
very light, but is not calcareous, being chiefly white clay and silex. In the San Fernando
hills I obtained tertiary fossils of the genera Ostrea, Pecten and Turritella.

San Pedro. — I had an opportunity of examining a section of some of the strata of the slope,
at the vertical bluff facing the bay of San Pedro. At that place the beds are formed of ferru-
ginous sandstone and argillaceous sandstone, and thick layers of bluish and grey, and some-
times greenish clay. No fossils were found in these strata. They differ lithologically from
those exposed in the pass of San Fernando, but they are probably Tertiary. At another point
along the bay south of the landing, more modern accumulations are exposed in bluffs about 30
feet high, they being the margins of a plain or terrace. Near the summit of the bluffs there
is a layer of fossil-shells in a fine state of preservation, and very abundant. The following
species were obtained there by the writer in 1853 : Saxicava dbrupta, Petricola Pedroana,
Schizothcerus Nutalli, Tapes diversum, Penitella spelceum, Fissurella crenulata, Sowerby, Nassa
interstriata, N. Pedroana, Strephona Pedroana, Littorina Pedroana, and Buccinum inter striatum.
With the exception of one, these were all described and named by Mr. T. A. Conrad.2 These
fossils show that the formation is littoral ; and this is also shown by the position in which they
are found, they being mingled together and surrounded by fragments of broken shells. Below
the fossils the bank is chiefly beach-sand. The lower molar of an extinct elephant was also
found in the bank, not far from this locality of fossils. It appears to differ from the teeth of
Elephas primigenius , in the greater distance between the plates, and in their smaller number.

Bitumen and ei Tar springs." — The broad slope on which Los Angeles is built is dotted in
several places by black lakes or pools of semi-fluid bitumen, which rises up from the strata below.
These are known as tar springs, and the inhabitants make use of the bitumen for covering

1 These strata are more particularly described in the author's report on the geology of the route surveyed iu California,
by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, U. S. Topographical Engineers.

a See Description of the Fossils and Shells collected in California by W. P. Blake, Appendix to Preliminary Geological
Report : Washington, 1855. See also the report in 4to.

56

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

their nearly flat roofs, and for making pavements. In a ravine near one of the springs I found
the exposed edges of bituminous shales, they being brownish-black, and in some places the
bitumen was visible.

Intrusive trappean rocks. — On the road from San Bernardino to Los Angeles, and not far
from Cahuenga rancho, there are several hills of moderate elevation, not over 100 or 150 feet,
and one of them is composed of a hard trappean rock. It may form a part of a range of hills
believed to extend nearly northwest and southeast, between the valley of San Bernardino and
the sea.

Alluvial valleys. — The whole slope, from the mountains to the ocean, may be said to be fertile
and susceptible of cultivation wherever water can be obtained. The valleys of the streams are,
however, peculiarly favorable for cultivation, and the bottom lands can hardly be surpassed for
their fertility.

CHAPTER VI.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OE THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.

GRANITIC, METAMORPHIC, DEVONIAN, AND CARBONIFEROUS.

General remarks. — Granitic and metamorphic rocks predominate west of the aztec mountains. — Bed or pink granite

predominates. principal places at which metamorphic rocks have been identified. their probable age. azoic.

Silurian. — Carboniferous. — Eelative ages of the granitic chains. — Anterior to and later than the carboniferous. —
Tertiary or post tertiary. — Kanges of the same age not coincident in direction. — Devonian, uncertainty of its
existence. — Carboniferous. — Of the sandia and santa fe mountains. — General extent along the line. — Lithological
characters. — Thickness of the strata. — Fossils. — Sandstone and coal measures. — Lithological characters. — View near
fort coffee. — Overhanging strata at sugar-loaf mountain. — Ferruginous sandstone. — Thickness of the coal measures. —
Diminish towards the west. — Fossils. — Coal. — General observations on the carboniferous formation. — Disturbances of
the formation. — Denudation. — Limestone of canon diablo. — Metamorphic limestone of the cajon and tejon, probably
carboniferous.

GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC.

In a rapid reconnoissance of any region in a direct line, it is impossible to bestow tbat atten-
tion upon the phenomena presented by the disturbed and metamorphosed rocks which their
obscured condition demands. The mineral characters and relations of unchanged horizontal
strata are ever present to the view along the valleys and ravines ; but the folded and crumpled
remnants of older strata can only be seen at intervals, and present an endless variety of condi-
tions and appearances, serving to confuse and perplex even the observer who has time at his
command. It is not, therefore, possible to assign the dividing lines between the truly erupted
granitic rocks and those which simulate them, but are in reality of sedimentary origin. We
can only state that here and there the metamorphosed stata are found, but their connexion can-
not yet be shown. Neither can the granitic rocks be separated into their several varieties, nor
the different intrusions be shown. It is therefore necessary to group all these rocks under one
head as above, and to represent them by one tint on the map. The presence of metamorphic
strata has, however, been indicated at several points on the section.

The rocks of this group predominate on the western portion of the line. The region wbere
the mountains are most numerous and abrupt is also, as is usual, the region of the greatest
granitic exposure. West of the Aztec mountains nothing but these rocks and the more modern
sedimentary formations are visible. On the central and eastern portions of the line, and indeed
for nearly four-fifths of its entire length, but few exposures of the granitic and metamorphic rocks
are found. The area of these outcrops is also comparatively limited. The granite foundations
over this broad area, from the Mississippi to longitude 112°, are nearly covered from view by thick
strata of Paleeozoic and Secondary age. The outcrops of granite are found only in narrow lines,
peering here and there above the broad and level plateau. Tbe principal lines, however, con-
stitute the great crest or water-shed between the two oceans. They are the most elevated portions
of the country, and consist of the Sierra Madre, Santa Fe mountains, and Sandia mountains. A
subordinate line, and one with an entirely different direction, is found in the Witchita mount-
ains and the outcrops between them and Little Rock. These lines of elevation are the only
exposures of granitic rock found on the line between the Mississippi and the volcano of San
Francisco.

8 t

58

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

Although there are many specimens of the granitic rocks in the collection, the material is
not sufficient to authorize a comparison "between the rocks of the different ranges. From some
sections, especially the region of the Colorado and the Hawilhamook or Bill "Williams' fork, the
specimens are quite numerous, and undoubtedly present a very fair view of the general mineral
constitution of the ranges ; hut the representation from other localities is obviously not full and
complete. As a description of each of the specimens will he found in a subsequent portion of
this report, it is not necessary to repeat them here ; hut a few general ohservations will suffice.

The most notable feature in the collection is the predominant red or rose-color of the speci-
mens of granite, few or none of them heing white or light-grey. This reddish color is chiefly
due to the pink feldspar, which is an almost constant ingredient. In several of the specimens
a whitish feldspar or albite is mingled with the red, but the color of the latter predominates.
The specimens contrast strongly with the collection which I made on the Sierra Nevada and
the Bernardino Sierra, where the white albitic or grey granites and metamorphic rocks ahound ;
hut they much resemhle the granites of the southern part of the Great Basin and those along
the Mojave river. The ahsence of specimens of compact grey sienitic rocks is also worthy of
note. But one specimen of distinct and well-characterized sienite is found in the series. This
is No. 25, from the Colorado river below the Mojave villages. The hornblende in this specimen
is the most conspicuous, and gives a greenish color to the mass. Another specimen, composed
of red feldspar and green hornblende, was found in the collection, hut it was without a lahel.
Two specimens lahelled sienite were not found to contain any hornhlende.

The presence of metamorphic rocks at many places along the route is very clearly shown by
the specimens. Their occurrence at other places is, however, mentioned in the descriptions ;
and the collections must not he considered as a just representation of their position or mineral
characters. Some of the most interesting localities, where the rocks are without much doubt
metamorphic, may be enumerated as follows : At Little Rock schistose and slaty rocks crop out
in nearly vertical strata, and are much contorted and traversed "by quartz veins. The carbon-
iferous strata rest horizontally upon their edges. In the Sandia mountains a compact green
rock is found underlying the carboniferous limestone, which, from the specimen in the collection,
I judge to be a metamorphosed clay slate. Mr. Marcou appears to regard these rocks next below
the Carboniferous, as metamorphosed Devonian strata. The auriferous rocks of Gold mountain
are in all prohahility metamorphic^ hut we as yet know little of their nature, the only informa-
tion accessible being the statements of Lieutenant Ahert and Dr. Wislizenus — the first that the
ore occurs in limestone, and the second in sienite and greenstone. Gold is, however, now re-
garded as a good indication of the Silurian age of the rocks in which it occurs, and it has been
remarked "that it is a Silurian fossil." It is not, however, confined to the metamorphic rocks of
Silurian age, heing certainly found in veins among erupted granitic and trappean rocks, and
doubtless occurs whenever the mineral conditions of rocks are favorable, irrespective of their age.
There is little doubt that the metamorphic rocks occur extensively in the Santa Fe mountains,
for a wide ridge of slates "breaking up into sharp angular pieces is mentioned hy Lieutenant
Ahert as occurring between Taos and Santa Fe.

Contorted gneiss occurs in the Aquarius mountains, the beds dipping to the west ; and similar
rocks occur on the opposite side of the stream in the Cerbat range. The presence of many veins
of quartz and feldspar among the rocks of these mountains is also mentioned by Mr. Marcou.
Iron ores were also found, and there are several varieties in the collection, but all of them are
specular iron or the anhydrous sesquioxide. Metamorphic rocks were also found near the mouth
of the river at its junction with the Great Colorado. It is most prohahle that a great part of
the Pai-ute range is composed of metamorphic rocks. They occur without doubt along the
Mojave, outcropping near the Spanish trail, in nearly vertical layers. They rise ahove the sur-
face with a serrated outline, and rest upon a compact feldspathic granite, which is much fissured
and traversed by feldspathic veins. A full description of these rocks has already been given.

In the Bernardino Sierra the phenomena of metamorphism are well displayed, or rather the

MET AM ORPHIC ROCKS — AGE OP THE CHAINS.

59

effects are clearly visible. The rocks of the upper parts of the chain at the Cajon being very com-
pact, aud yet in most places showing lines of structure or lamination, while the debris of white
limestone, traversed with blue bands or lines of stratification, not quite obliterated, show the
former sedimentary origin of the whole. In the lower or southern part of the pass, slates are
found similar to those of the pass of San Francisquito, further west, where gold has been ob-
tained.1

It is not possible, with our present limited information respecting tbese different localities of
metamorphic rock, to form any conclusion with respect to their age. It is in all probability in
most cases Silurian, or older than the Carboniferous. This is certainly true of all the localities
east of the Aquarius mountains, for up to that point the carboniferous strata are present in a
non-metamorphic state. The formations do not in any place appear to be like t'ae broad metamor-
phic outcrops on the western base of the Sierra Nevada. They do not appear to consist of such
vast masses of argillaceous and talcose slates, but are more compact, and gneissose. That the
Azoic rocks occur is very probable, and the abundance of iron ores among Aquarius and Cerbat
mountains would incline us to this opinion. Little value, however, can be attached to the indi-
cations of age presented by the occurrence of the metals. The abrupt termination of the car-
boniferous strata in horizontal strata at the Aztec mountains is not readily explained ; but it is
most probable that beyond that point it has become metamorphosed, if, indeed, it ever existed.
The limestone found in the Bernardino Sierra may be of this age. A limestone is also found in
the Tejon Pass, in the Sierra Nevada, further west, and is there associated with beds of quartz
rock or metamorphosed sandstone.2 The two localities are very probably similar in age.

Relative ages of the several chains. — We may form some general conclusions with regard to
the relative age of several of the granitic ranges, but cannot yet determine how recent many of
the erupted granitic masses may be. The horizontal carboniferous strata of the Aztec mount-
ains at once point out the fact that we here have one of the most ancient granitic uplifts. The
whole granite foundation, from the Aztec and Aquarius ranges eastward, probably as far as
the Colorado Chiquito, is older than either the Sierra Nevada, Bernardino Sierra, or the ranges
along the Bio Grande, the southern equivalent of the Bocky mountains. These granitic
rocks of the Aztec mountains had received their form and position previous to the deposition of
the carboniferous limestone, while the Sierra Madre and Santa Fe mountains have been upraised
since the carboniferous limestones and sandstones were deposited. We find the two latter
ranges with the carboniferous strata flanking them, and dipping at angles of 30° and 35°. It
was the opinion of Mr. Marcou that the Santa Fe mountains and Sierra Madre were later in
origin than the beds of red clay and gypsum, and the overling white sandstones, which he
regarded as Triassic and Jurassic, and it was his belief that these formations were uplifted by
the intrusion of the two ranges. We have, however, seen that the strata of the gypsum forma-
tion and the Cretaceous are not disturbed to any great extent, but rest horizontally in the valley
between the two ranges. Further observations on this subject are presented with the general
observations on these two formations.

Witchita Mountains. — The carboniferous strata in the vicinity of the Witchita mountains, and
along the line of granitic outcrops, extending east, or a few degrees north of east from them,
are more or less uplifted and disturbed, as if the granite ridges had been upraised since their
deposition. This line of dislocation would thus appear to be near the age of that of the Santa
Fe mountains. The metamorphic schists of Little Bock are, however, capped by the horizontal
beds of carboniferous sandstone, showing the uplift of that portion at least to be anterior.

Ranges along the Colorado. — It is not possible to determine the relative ages of these chains.
Mr. Marcou records the presence of thick strata of tertiary rocks, upheaved and metamorphosed ;
but it is not certain that their disturbance was produced by granitic movements. It is more

1 For a description of these rocks see the author's Geological Report on the route surveyed in California by Lieut. R. S.
Williamson. (Inedited.)

2 See as above.

00

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

probable that tho eruptions of trap and porphyry which abound there have produced the
result. Along the Mojavo river horizontal tertiary strata are found resting in the basins of the
granitic rocks ; and this is also the case in the Pai-ute mountains.

The extensive outcrops of sandstone which we find at the summit of the Bernardino Sierra,
at the Cajon Pass, have a modern aspect, but are without fossils. They are probably of Tertiary
age, and are strongly upheaved. They may be regarded as evidence of granitic intrusions
since their deposition, but it is by no means clear that the whole chain of granitic ridges has
an origin so modern. Wo find tertiary strata resting undisturbed at the western and northern
base of tho chain, and it may be found that portions of the thick bank of horizontally stratified
materials at the summit, and which form the upper edge of the long slope of the Mojave, are
Tertiary. Tho uplifted sandstone which is found further west, and which is like that in the
pass, also testifies to the violent dislocations and movements in that chain during or since the
Tertiary era, provided it be proved that the sandstone is referable to this period. The localities
of uplifted sandstone which have been referred to, are by no means the only ones which are
found in that chain and near the point of its intersection with the Sierra Nevada. In the pass
of San Francisquito, in Williamson's Pass, and at tho Canada do las Uvas, there are exten-
sive outcrops, but some of them may be directly referred to the action of vast dykes of compact
porphyry or greenstone. On the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, at the Canada de las Uvas,
there are disturbed sandstone strata containing fossil plants, which show their Tertiary or Post-
Tertiary age. These strata are strongly upheaved and dislocated, and are found in the valleys
of the granitic rocks of tho chain ; but on the western base of the mountains there are extensive
horizontal undisturbed deposites, 1,500 feet thick or more, from which great numbers of
Miocene fossils were procured. This is not the only locality of Miocene fossils in undisturbed
strata at the base of the Sierra Nevada. Mr. Marcou, however, states in his Resume, that the
Sierra Nevada was raised at tho end of either the Miocene or Pliocene periods, meaning the
dislocation of strata of those periods^ or upheaval of the chain, independent of the uplift of
the " Coast Range, " which he states was raised at the end of the Eocene epoch.1

In conclusion, it may be observed that much elaborate investigation is yet necessary before
this subject of the relative ages of tho numerous and extended mountain chains west of the
Mississippi can be satisfactorily discussed. Tho general conclusions to which we have arrived
show, however, that chains which differ greatly in age are nearly coincident in direction, and
that others which are probably synchronous, are diverging. The general northwest and south-
east trend of tho ranges west of the Rio Grande, and the more nearly east and west direction
of the Bernardino Sierra, are worthy of note. Should it be proved that the Sierra Mogoyon
LS a continuous chain, its direction nearly eonlbrms to that of the last mentioned chain. Tho
parallelism and overlapping character of the ranges west of the Aztec mountains may be
regarded as evidence of their stratified origin and subsequent plication.

DEVONIAN.

There is much reason to doubt whether the formations equivalent to those of the Devonian or
Old Red Sandstone period are found along the line of the survey. They are mentioned by
Mr. Marcou at only two points at the Sandia mountains, and again at the western termination
of the carboniferous rocks in the Aztec mountains. At the latter place there was probably the
most reason to suspect its presence, but no fossils or other indication than the position of the
strata beneath the carboniferous limestone served to identify them as the equivalent of the
Devonian. In crossing tho Albuquerque mountains — the Sandia range — the carboniferous
limestone was found to be separated from contact with the granite by a mass of "serpentinoid
trap containing strata of metamorphic limestone of Devonian age." (Notes, October 5.) This
serpentinoid trap, as will be seen by referring to the description of the collection, appears like

1 Seo page 48 of Captain Whipple'! Report, in 8vo., Ho. Doc. 129, and in the reprint of the Resume' in the Appendix to
thin Report.

DEVONIAN CARBONIFEROUS LIMESTONE AND FOSSILS.

61

a metamorphosed* clay-slate, which it most probably is. There are no further observations on
these metamorphic strata except the statement that the trap immediately adjoins the carbon-
iferous limestone.

Further west, at the cliff of carboniferous rocks, the carboniferous limestone was found to be
resting on a band of red sandstone, the thickness of which is not stated. The relative positions
are shown in the small section given with Mr. Marcou's notes, January 22. At the point
where this sandstone was first seen, it was six hundred feet above the trail, in the face of a bluff
twelve hundred feet high. It was reached beyond this in the course of the survey, and was
under foot. There are no observations on its thickness or mineral characters. As there does
not appear to be any good evidence of the Devonian age of this layer of sandstone, and as it
occurs at only one place, and even there in a comparatively unimportant extent, it has not
received a separate coloring on the map and section, but is included with the carboniferous
limestone.

CARBONIFEROUS.

Before the expedition of Lieutenant Whipple, our knowledge of the position and mineral
characters of the carboniferous formation along the line of the thirty-fifth parallel was very
slight, and did not equal the extent of our information respecting these rocks further north
along a region less known to civilization.

The existence of thick beds of limestone in the mountains along the Eio Grande was early made
known, but no collections of the included fossils were made and brought in. Dr. Wislizenus
reported them as Silurian, and mentions the strata as occurring at several points along his
route southward along the valley of the Eio Grande. Lieutenant Abert, who visited one of the
mines in the Gold mountains, found it to be in limestone, and procured a Terebratula from the
rock which he has figured in his report.1

At the north, the collections made by Colonel Fremont and Captain Stansbury had demon-
strated the existence of the carboniferous limestone as far west as the shores and islands of
Great Salt lake.

The collections made by Mr. Marcou when with Lieutenant Whipple, leave us no longer in
doubt with respect to the age of the limestones of the Santa Fe and Albuquerque or Sandia
mountains, their Carboniferous age is clearly established, and the formation is also shown to
extend westward of those ranges as far as the Aztec mountains, in longitude 113°. The rock at
each of these localities is charged with the fossils characteristic of the carboniferous or mountain
limestone, and it is associated with thick beds of sandstone and shales, corresponding to the
coal-measures of other districts. The formation was also observed at other localities, as has
been shown in the chapter on the geology of the route ; and as a particular description of the
observations at each locality is there presented, it is only necessary here to compare these obser-
vations, and to present some of the general conclusions which may be drawn from them.
. Carboniferous limestone. — The general descriptions have already shown the occurrence of the
carboniferous limestone at the following places along the line : At Delaware mountain, Santa
Fe and Albuquerque mountains, Sierra Madre, and west of San Francisco volcano, in the Aztec
range.

Litliological characters. — The several outcrops of limestone differ somewhat in color and
general appearance ; but this difference is chiefly found between the rock of Delaware mountain
and those further west, which more nearly agree in their color and general aspect, judging from
the descriptions and the fossils. The only specimen brought in is from Delaware mountain,
(No. 59 of the catalogue and description,) and presents a very light-grey or yellowish-grey
color, different from the bluish-grey tint of the fossils from the Pecos villages, and west of San
Francisco volcano.

The limestone of the Albuquerque mountains, according to Mr. Marcou's notes, is greyish-

1 Report of an Examination in New Mexico.

62

.GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

blue, and sometimes black. It is very compact, and breaks witb a conchoidaf fracture. Some
of the strata are very thin, and are intercalated with black clay-shales. It is reported that a
short distance further south it contains beds of bituminous coal. At another point, where the
mountains were ascended, the limestone was greyish-white, or blackish. At the outcrop on
the summit of the Sierra Madre, the limestone was found to be bluish-grey ; and further west,
beyond the Colorado Chiquito, the limestone of Canon Diablo is of a similar color, or rather
more white and yellowish, as I am assured by Mr. Campbell. At Camp 97, the rock is said to
contain siliceous kidney-shaped masses, which have been baked to a rose-color by the hot melted
lava. The other and most western outcrops in the Aztec range probably have the same
bluish-grey color, as this is the color of the fossils, and I do not find any observations on the
color of the beds at that place. The fossils are, however, lighter-colored than those from
the Pecos villages.

The strata at nearly all the localities appear to alternate with thin beds of shale or sand-
stone. At Delaware mount the limestone alternates with sandstone, and at Albuquerque
mountains with thin and black clay shales, at one place from four to six feet thick. Beds of
very hard and rose-colored sandstone were also found — one of them being composed of coarse
rolled grains. The limestone of the Sierra Madre was also found to alternate with beds of
roseate sandstone. The rock of Canon Diablo is hard and compact, and is filled with small
pits, leaving sharp and hard angles. Kidney-shaped masses of black silex were found in the
limestone beds of the Sandia mountains ; and similar nodules occur in the strata near Camp 96,
where they have become discolored by the heat of the lava.

Thickness of the strata. — Mr. Marcou estimates the thickness of the limestone, and included
beds of sandstone, at Delaware mountain, as from five to six hundred feet, and near Camp A, in
the canon of San Antonio, (Sandia mountains,) at three hundred feet ; but he again estimates
the thickness of the Carboniferous, probably including the sandstones and shales above the lime-
stone, at two thousand feet. There are no notes upon the thickness of the strata at the summit
of the Sierra Madre, nor is the thickness of the limestone at the cliff in the Aztec range men-
tioned, but the combined thickness of the whole formation is represented as about six hundred
feet. It is undoubtedly the fact that the beds become thinner towards the west. The strata of
Canon Diablo, according to Mr. Campbell, are from three feet to eight or ten in thickness, and
the canon has a depth of 125 feet, and is wholly in the limestone.

Fossils. — The limestone contains a great abundance of fossils at the Pecos villages, and in the
canon of San Antonio. They are also numerous west of the volcano of San Francisco, but are
not so well preserved. At Delaware mountain the rock is charged with the stems of encrinites,
which are crystalline carbonate of lime, while the surrounding rock is granular. Mr. Marcou
mentions finding Tercbratulai and Polypi at this place, and an Orthis is found in the collection —
No. 124 of the catalogue and description. The greater part of the fossils in the collection are
from the Pecos villages, Santa Fe mountains. They were all submitted to Professor Hall for
his examination, and the descriptions of them will be found in Chapter IX. They consist of the
following species : Productus semireticulatus, P. pustulosus, Tercbratula subtilata, T. roissyi, T.
millipunctata, Spirifer musebachanus, S. pilosus. Encrinites also occur, and a Cyathophyllum,
which is too obscure to bo determined. The fossils from the outcrops west of San Francisco
mountain are not well preserved ; indeed their specific characters are so obscured that they can-
not be determined. One of the specimens is a very large Productus, and is probably a variety
of P. semireticidalus. Others are fragments of coral, which are too much mutilated to be re-
cognised. In the notes, January 9, Mr. Marcou states that he found at this place three or four
beds filled with fossils, the same as at Sandia mountain and the Pecos villages. He enumerates
Productus semireticulatus and P. punctatus, Spiriferai, Tcrebratulai, and Polypi, and says they
are very abundant and form a lumachelle. Mr. Campbell informs me that the fossils at this
place and at the Sandia mountain in the canon of San Antonio are very abundant, and that at
the latter locality they are found along the roadside, and may be readily knocked out of the

CARBONIFEROUS FOSSILS — COAL-MEASURES.

63

rock with a hammer. Of the fossils from Pecos, which have heen described and figured, two
are new : Spirifer pilosus, PL II, Fig. — , and Terebratula millipunctata, PI. II, Fig. — . Both
these and the other important species have been most heautifully and accurately drawn for me
hy Mr. F. B. Meek, whose lahors in geology and palaeontology are well known to American
geologists.

The occurrence of Productus semireticulatus at this new locality in the centre of the country
is very interesting, inasmuch as this is one of the most widely distributed carboniferous fossils
known, it having been found in various parts of Europe, in Asia, South America, and Austra-
lia. It was also found near Fort Laramie hy Captain Stanshury. Terebratula roissyi is another
fossil which has a wide distribution.

Carboniferous sandstone and coal-measures, — At nearly all the points where the carhoniferous
limestone is exposed, it is overlaid by thick strata of sandstone and shales in conformable strat-
ification. These strata were found most developed, and reaching their greatest thickness and
extent, at the eastern end of the line. The hills and ranges seen in passing up the Arkansas
are all formed of this group of rocks. According to Dr. Shumard, the sandstone is the pre-
vailing rock "between Fort Smith and Fort Belknap, and, during the exploration of the Red
river by Captain Marcy it was found in extensive outcrops.

Lithological characters. — The observations which Mr. Marcou makes in his notes upon the
mineral character of this group along the line are not numerous or full, nor are the different
outcrops represented in the collection by specimens. It appears, however, that the prevailing
color of these rocks is grey, or yellowish-grey, and that they are formed, at least along the
Arkansas, of thick beds of compact sandstone, alternating in some places with clay shales,
which are sometimes "blackened hy bituminous matter, or contain distinct beds of coal. Ac-
cording to Dr. Gr. C. Shumard, who has carefully examined the strata near the line in Arkansas
and southwesterly to and beyond Fort Belknap, the sandstone is often highly charged with
iron, and varies in color from a light grey to a dark hrown. It is found in heavy massive beds
made up of coarse quartzose grains, and is intercalated with finer-grained sandstone, which is
sometimes beautifully ripple-marked. c£ It corresponds in its lithological features with that
forming the Ozark range of mountains."1 Mr. Marcou states that the beds of sandstone at
the mouth of the Poteau river are associated with heds of marly shales, which are blackish in
the lower portions. The stratification is very distinct, but the sandstone decomposes where
exposed to the air, and is friable ; it is also so much filled with fissures that it is not easily

BLUFF OF CARBONIFEROUS SANDSTONE AND SHALE.

worked. Twelve miles south of that point a bed of "bituminous coal is found. (Notes, June
19.) At another place, he mentions that the sandstone at the mouth of the river is highly
fossiliferous, and a bed of fifteen or twenty inches thick is yellowish-grey, and contains bitu-
minous black spots and nodules of oxyd of iron. It is also ripple-marked.

1 Shumard. Marcy's Report, Red river, p. 180.

64

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY FIFTH PARALLEL.

This little sketch of the point of rocks jutting out into the river near Fort Coffee shows in a
very distinct manner the contact of a body of sandstone with shales helow, and the irregular
decomposition of the sandstone by weathering. The sketch on page 14, taken near the same
point, also shows the character of the stratification very clearly. Sugar-loaf mountain probably
presents one of the best vertical sections of the strata to be found in that vicinity. It is at
least one of the thickest remnants of strata which have been much worn down and removed
by denudation. Mr. Marcou considered it to be entirely formed of the coal-measures, and
states that several beds of coal have been found at its base and in the middle. Beds of sand-
stone occur from five to twelve feet thick, and alternate with schistose marls of a blackish-grey
color, presenting traces of coal, and sometimes containing thin beds of limestone. An idea of
the character of some of the beds of sandstone may be obtained from the annexed sketch, taken
near the summit, by Mr. Mollhausen :

OVERHANGING LEDGE OF CARBONIFEROUS SANDSTONE — SUGAR-LOAF MOUNTAIN.

It shows that the sandstone is compact and homogeneous, and capable of resisting the weather
very well.

Between Camps Nos. 4 and 5, about thirty miles west of Fort Smith, the sandstone is asso-
ciated with blackish grey schists, and a portion of the sandstone was very ferruginous, and
pyrites was disseminated in it. A spring was found there, charged with iron and sulphur.
Between Camps Nos. 5 and 6, the sandstone was found of a red color in the interior, it being
stained by the oxide of iron. Schists were also found containing concretions. From this point
westward to Delaware mountain the sandstone beds were often highly ferruginous, and were
intercalated with blackish shales.

I do not find any definite information concerning the lithological characters of the coal-meas-
ures or sandstones of the outcrop on. the eastern slope of the Sandia mountains. Mr. Marcou
gives the thickness of the mountain limestone as 300 feet, and the whole thickness of the car-
boniferous as 2,000. There is thus a thickness of 1,700 feet of either shales or sandstones, or
probably of both. In his Resume he mentions shales or schists only, and it would appear that
they prevail to the exclusion of the beds of sandstone.

At the time the Sierra Madre was crossed, it was very cold, and no observations on the min-
eral characters of the sandstone were made. Mr. Marcou was doubtful whether he saw it on
the eastern side, and on the west no mention is made of any beds except those intercalated with
the limestone.

The sandstones beyond Camp 96 were much broken up, and they have a red color. They are

CORBONIFEROUS — FOSSILS —COAL.

• 65

schistose, and yet very hard — harder than the red sandstone of the gypsum formation. The
sandstone of the cliff at the Aztec range is red in some places, and again is grey, hut it is very
hard. Mr. Campbell considers it a light-colored sandstone, and it is possible that the light-
colored grey sandstones which he observed south of San Francisco mountain are of the same
age. In these, he remarks a resemblance to the light-colored or white and grey sandstones of
the table-lands about Zuhi and of the Llano Estucado.

Thickness of the strata. — The rocks we have been considering reach their greatest develop-
ment along the eastern portion of the line, in the State of Arkansas, and within a few miles
of its western borders. The greatest thickness stated is 2,000 feet — the height of Sugar-
loaf mountain, where the strata are horizontal. This, however, is merely, as I under-
stand, the height of the mountain above the general level of the country immediately around ;
and, as the base of the strata or the carboniferous limestone is not exposed at that point, the
true thickness of the formation is not yet ascertained. The Sans Bois mountains are estimated
to be from 2,000 to 2,500 feet high, and are probably composed entirely of carboniferous sand-
stones and shales. Petit Jean mountain has a height of about 950 feet above the river. The
outcrop of the coal-measures at the Sandia mountain must be, as we have seen above, about
1,700 feet thick ; for, out of a combined thickness of 2,000 feet, the limestone occupies 300.
Much further west, at the Aztec mountains, the whole series, including the limestone and an
underlying bed of sandstone, is only about 600 feet thick. The rocks have undoubtedly been
greatly denuded ; yet it is certain that the thickness of the formation diminishes towards the
west.

Fossils. — Very few fossils were found in the sandstone strata, and most of them are referable
to the lower division of the group, or to the period of the limestone. Ten miles up Little
river, near Delaware mountain, Mr. Marcou cites the presence of fossils — Productus, Crinoids
and Bellerophon, and bivalves — in the sandstone. Similar fossils were found in the creek at
Camp No. 17. Very few fossil coal-plants were seen, and none were found or collected at the
coal-beds. Between Camps 12 and 13 the road lay among hills of carboniferous sandstone, and
five or six fragments of the stalks of Sigilaria were procured. A fine specimen is in the col-
lection, and is the only fossil from the coal-measures, if we except specimens 100 and 101 — a
Lepidodendron — from Camp 47, Arroyo Truxillo. At Choctaw Agency, rolled fragments of
carboniferous sandstone were found in a brook, containing Polypi and imprints of Productus ;
also the imprints of Sigillaria and of Equisetum.

Coal. — It appears that the outcrops of bituminous shales are quite abundant, and that coal is
found at many places along the Arkansas, but generally in thin beds, only in a few instances
thick enough to be economically worked. The usual coal-plants, with the exception of the
specimens of Sigillaria, were not found; but this is not singular, as none of the beds were
opened and explored. The most important of these localities of coal are enumerated in Chapter
VIII, under the head of Coal. No coal was found in the Santa Fe mountains ; but the shales
were very dark ; and Mr. Marcou ascertained that workable beds were found in the Manzanna
mountains at the south, they being a continuation of the same chain. It is, however, by no
means certain that this deposite is in the carboniferous formation ; it maybe much more modern ;
and the probability is strengthened by the fact that, at about the same distance north of the
line, the coal deposite of the Eaton Pass is found, and was at first considered as the true coal,
but afterwards was shown to be much more recent, impressions of leaves of dicotyledonous plants
having been obtained there.

It is possible that the coal found at Ojo Pescado, in the dark-colored bituminous shales, is
true Carboniferous, but it is very doubtful. Neither coal nor bituminous shales appear to have
been found west of this locality. Even the few observations which we have, force us to con-
clude that the coal beds decrease in thickness towards the west ; and, indeed, that they probably
totally disappear west of the Sandia mountains.

9 t

66

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CARBONIFEROUS FORMATION.

The Carboniferous may be regarded as the geological horizon for the line, as indeed it is for
the whole wide region west of the Mississippi river and the Anahuachian chain. It lies at the
basis of all the non-metamorphic sedimentary strata, and is found at convenient points for geo-
logical reference along the entire line.

Disturbances to which the formation has been subjected. — If we cast our eyes upon the geologi-
.cal map and section, it is at once apparent that the principal orographic features of the conti-
nent have been produced since the Carboniferous era. There is also a region which appears to
have remained in a state of comparative quiescence since it was submerged by a carboniferous
sea. This region is that of the Aztec mountains, and eastwardly from them, towards the vol-
cano of San Francisco. The lines of the principal disturbance and uplift are those of the central
chains — the Sierra Madre and the Santa Fe and Albuquerque mountains. Along these lines
the carboniferous limestone and associate sandstones or shales are upraised at angles of thirty to
forty degrees, and dip away from the central line of granitic rock. At the Albuquerque mount-
ains the mountain limestone was even found at the height of 12,000 feet, forming the summit
of the range. The general direction of these lines of uplift of the strata is nearly north and
south, conforming to the direction of the ranges. The Sierra Madre, however, diverges towards
the west, and its direction may be regarded as north 20° west.

Another line of disturbance is found in the chain of slight elevations commencing at the
Witchita mountains and extending in a direction a few degrees north of east to the Arkansas
river. Along this line the strata are not raised to a very great height, but the trends of all the
ridges and valleys in the carboniferous limestone and sandstone appear to be nearly coincident

DARDANELIiE ROCK.

with it. Delaware mountain, which is one of this system, is uplifted, and the direction, ac-
cording to Mr. Marcou, is N.N.E. and S.S.W. This is a greater deflection to the north than
is indicated by the topography of the vicinity. It is possible that there is a line of uplift in a
northeast and southwest direction, and that the main granitic axis, extending from the Washita

DISTUKBANCES OF THE CARBONIFEROUS STRATA.

67

river east to the Hot Springs and thence to Little Rock, is an older dislocation. The horizontal
position of the carboniferous strata on the edges of vertical and contorted metamorphic schist at
Little Rock, favors this belief ; and yet the long lines of ridges of carboniferous sandstone, ex-
tending on the south bank of the river, parallel with this line of igneous and metamorphic strata,
show extensive disturbances, and render it more probable that the elevation of Delaware mount-
ain pertains to the same system. At Mammelle momitain, according to Mr. Featherstonhaugh,
the strata are well exposed and stand at an angle of 75°, and in some places they were vertical.
Dardanelle rock, of which a sketch is here given, is formed of highly inclined strata, the in-
clination being at least 45°.

Mr. Marcou, however, does not record any inclination so great as these. Between Camps 8
and 9_, the dip was found to be from 20 to 30 degrees, and on Gaines' creek it was only 15 de-
grees, and at several other points it ranged from 10 to 15 degrees. A cause for these slight
uplifts may be found in the trap-dykes which Mr. Marcou states are found to traverse the forma-
tion in that region.

Near the outcrop of granite at the Caddo village, or not far from Fort Arbuckle, Dr. G. C.
Shumard found the limestone to be elevated at an angle of 30 degrees, and at another locality,
further west, he found outcrops of sandstone dipping at an angle of 40 degrees.1 The outcrop of
limestone is nearly south of Delaware mountain, and it is probably a part of the same uplift.

The extent of the inclination of the strata at the summit of the Sierra Madre is not expressed
in degrees ; it is merely noted that the inclination is very strong towards the west. West of
San Francisco mountain, at Camp 96, the sandstone strata were found to stand at angles of 60
or 80 degrees, the general direction of the heads of the beds being W.W.N. (Notes, January
10.) It is probable that this is a local rupture of the strata, for they appear to have been found
horizontal before reaching the next camp. The strata forming the bluff at the Aztec mount-
ains are not perfectly horizontal, but have a slight dip towards the north. (Notes, January 19.)

The strata being completely hid from our view by more modern deposites of great thickness,
between the several points of outcrop just enumerated, it is not possible for us to affirm posi-
tively regarding the position or amount of disturbance of these portions ; but we are warranted
in believing that the beds are much undulated, and perhaps in. many places come nearly to view
above the more recent deposites. The carboniferous limestone, and the sandstones above it,
dip under the beds of the gypsum formation at Delaware mountain, to appear again six hun-
dred and fifty miles further west on the side of the Albuquerque mountains. The depth to
which the limestone extends below the surface at any intermediate point cannot be given ; but
the strata probably do not form one great curve, but rest in a succession of wave-like flexures,
at about the same distance from the surface. In representing these portions of the strata on the
section, the lines are drawn more evenly and regular than it is probable a close conformity to
nature would permit. The uncertainty which attends their position is, however, acknowledged
by the broken or dotted line between those portions of the strata which are below the line of
vision. No outcrop of the limestone and sandstone being found on the western side of the Al-
buquerque mountains, we are led to conclude that the edges of the strata are covered from view
by the more recent deposites. It is also doubtful whether they rise to the surface on the eastern
slope of the Sierra Madre, Mr. Marcou not being positive that they were passed by him. Mr.
Campbell, however, having found outcrops of limestone further north dipping to the east, it
becomes most probable that Mr. Marcou' s supposition was correct. I, however, have not brought
the strata to the surface on the section, but have represented them as underlying the whole
valley, their edges being concealed on each side by the deposites of the gypsum formation or the
Cretaceous.

Denudation. — It is very evident that the carboniferous strata have been subjected to powerful
denudation, it being sufficiently attested by such remnants of the strata as Sugar-loaf mountain,

i Marcy's Report, pp. 193 and 195.

68

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

which, as is well expressed by Mr. Marcou, stands as a column in witness of the immense
denudations to which that part of the country has been submitted. We have an erosion at
that place amounting to 2,000 feet in depth, and the mountain is almost the only relic of that
elevation in that region. The long valleys between the the Poteau, Sans Bois, and other ranges
along the Canadian, are probably for the most part produced by denudation. The denudation
at Delaware mountain, by which nearly all the carboniferous sandstone has been removed, is
also worthy of remark. The elevated outcrops of the Albuquerque mountains probably have
not suffered very greatly by denudation from currents ; the slow disintegrating action of snows
and the atmosphere have been the principal agents in producing their degradation. But it is
by no means certain that extensive denudations have not taken place further west, and that the
strata of the Aztec mountains, and under the now wide-spread lavas of San Francisco volcano,
have not been swept by powerful currents. The bold escarpment presented by the strata
towards the west, and their sudden and entire disappearance beyond, indicate the most exten-
sive and powerful denudation. In estimating the probable amount of denudation of the strata
at the extreme west, we must not lose sight of the fact, that the whole series appears to diminish
in thickness as we proceed westward. This is first indicated in a marked manner by the outcrop
at Albuquerque mountains, where the thickness, even estimating it at 2,000 feet, is much less
than the thickness of the upper portions of the group along the Canadian river.

Limestone and strata along the Colorado Chiquito. — It will be seen by reference to the general
description of the series of red strata containing the gypsum, that there is much probability
that a portion at least of these strata, especially those along the Colorado Chiquito, are in reality
portions of the carboniferous group. The red color is due entirely to a change in the constitu-
ents of the beds, or to infiltration, and is not any evidence of a different age, although a strong
contrast may be presented with other strata of unquestionable carboniferous age. The con-
formity of the strata also appears more perfect along the Colorado Chiquito than at any other
point. The limestone of Canon Diablo, which was met after crossing the Colorado Chiquito,
was regarded by Mr. Marcou as the equivalent of the magnesian limestone of the Trias, and he
thought he saw fossil Belemnites, a Nautilas, and a Pteroceras in it. He states that it occurs in
beds from six inches to one foot in thickness, and dips to the north under angles of from ten to
fifteen degrees, conformably with the other strata, "the New Red." Strata of limestone were
also found alternating with the red sandstone. Mr. Campbell afterwards saw this limestone
greatly developed in the sides of the Canon Diablo, and states that its appearance is similar to
that near Camp 96, which Mr. Marcou at first called magnesian limestone, evidently regarding
it as equivalent to that along the Colorado Chiquito, but which* he afterwards found to contain
abundance of the fossils characteristic of the mountain limestone. It will thus be seen, that it
is not possible to draw the dividing line between the carboniferous group and that which has
been described under the title of gypsum formation. I have referred the limestone of Canon
Diablo to the Carboniferous, and in the section have represented the red clay and gypsum series
as resting directly upon it. If it shall be proved by further exploration that this limestone is
in reality a portion of the lower carboniferous series, a large part of the strata now classed
under the name of Gypsum formation must be referred to the Carboniferous. As the age of
these strata is so doubtful, little attention has been given to the phenomena which they present
in the preceding descriptions. Similar uncertainty rests upon the age of the sandstone which
Mr. Campbell saw in detached mounds on the limestone around San Francisco volcano.

The probable carboniferous age of the metamorphic limestone found beyond the Aztec
mountains has already been adverted to. It is most probable that the outcrops in the Cajon
Pass, and those in the Canada de las Uvas, and in the Tejon, are of this period.

CHAPTER VII.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS.

GYPSUM FORMATION— CRETACEOUS, TERTIARY AND VOLCANIC.

Gypsum formation supposed to be trias by mr. marcou. — Absence of fossils. — Called gypsum formation by professor
hitchcock. — Extent and boundaries of the formation. — Lithological characters. — Section at pyramid mountain. —
gypsum. — Extent and locality of the deposites. — Most abundant east of the mountains. — Dolomite east and west of

the mountains. thickness of the gypsum formation. disturbances of the strata. uplifts near san antonio due

to trap dykes. — Extends in nearly unbroken strata from the east to the west side of the mountains. — Probable
age of the formation and its reported synchronism with the trias of europe. — cretaceous formation. points at

WHICH IT IS IDENTIFIED BY FOSSILS. — CRETACEOUS AGE OF THE LLANO ESTACADO. — Of THE PLATEAUX WEST OF THE SIERRA

madre. — Extent of the cretaceous along the route. — Mineral characters. — Thickness.— Dislocations. — Mountain

ranges older than the cretaceous. — submerged in part by the cretaceous sea. eeported jurassic age of the

llano. — Tertiary. — Post-tertiary. — Alluvial.

GYPSUM FORMATION.

RED SANDSTONE AND CLAY CONTAINING GYPSUM.

The descriptions of the geology along the route have shown that for a great part of the dis-
tance a remarkable series of strata of red sandstone, red marls and clays, containing an abund-
ance of gypsum, were found in all the valleys of erosion. These strata were considered hy Mr.
Marcou as the equivalents of the Triassic formation of Europe, and he records his observations
under that name in his notes, and describes the series in his preliminary report, or Resume, as
the Trias or New Red sandstone, and forms the whole group into three divisions corresponding
to the divisions adopted by European geologists.

As no fossils have been found in the strata, and as the line of separation between them and
the underlying Carboniferous, and the Cretaceous above, has not yet been traced satisfactorily
and does not appear to be well defined, I do not attempt to assign their age, but adopt for them
the name Gypsum formation for purposes of description until further examinations shall deter-
mine to what geological period they can, with propriety, be referred. This name was proposed
by President Hitchcock for similar strata, an extension of the same series of deposites, found along
the Red river by Captain Marcy, in his exploration of 1852. No fossils having been found, he
was not able to determine the age of the formation ; and as it was characterized by an abundance
of gypsum, the above name was adopted for those portions of the strata which contained it in
abundance, and the term Red Clay formation for those where the red marls and clays were pre-
dominant. In the following descriptions the term Gypsum Formation will refer to all the red
strata of sandstone and marl containing gypsum, which are above the rocks containing fossils
of carboniferous age, and below those in which cretaceous fossils abound. It is therefore possible
that a portion of each of these two formations may be included in the descriptions.

Extent and boundaries of the formation. — The strata of red sandstone and clay were first met
on the western side of Delaware mountain, or about two hundred miles west of Fort Smith.
They continue along the valley of the Canadian and False Washita westward to the Albu-
querque mountains, where the carboniferous rocks rise through them, and form the crest of the
mountains. The strata do not appear to rise high up the slope of the mountains, or as high as

70

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

the Carboniferous, but are confined to their base ; and it appears, from the descriptions, that
they extend through the valleys or breaks in the ridges into the valley of the Rio Grande. In
this valley they are well known, and are exposed along the valleys made by the streams. They
also appear on the western side of the valley, high up on the sides of the Sierra Madre, being
found near the summit of the Zufii Pass, (Camino del Obispo,) at an elevation of over 7,500 feet,
and farther north the strata are continuous from one side of the range to the other along the
road to Fort Defiance, through Campbell's Pass. From the western flank of the chain they
spread out and underlie the broad table-lands and mesas towards the Colorado, forming the
sides and beds of all the tributaries to the Colorado Chiquito, which is itself, in the formation
nearly to its mouth in the Great Colorado. The most western exposure along the route appears
to be at the base of the great volcano — San Francisco mountain — where the red strata are suc-
ceeded by a thickly-bedded limestone, which is referred, with some doubt, to the lower Carbon-
iferous. The formation is exposed in nearly every river-bed and canon from Delaware mountain
to the foot of the volcano, a distance of about 950 miles, and over one half of the entire route.
The highest point at which it is known to occur is that already mentioned. With regard to its
northern extension little is yet known ; but on the south it has been traced along the Red river
by Captain Marcy, and near the parallel of 32° by Captain Pope, where it extends along the
Colorado of Texas to its sources in the Llano Estacado. It is also found along the Pecos river
and Delaware creek.

Ljithological characters. — The eastern portions of the formation along the Canadian and False
Washita rivers probably present a greater variety in the texture, color, and mineral composition
of the strata, than any other part. It is this portion of the formation which contains the
thickest and most interesting beds of gypsum, and the observations on the lithological charac-
ters along this part of the line are more numerous than upon any other. It appears, from the
notes and descriptions, that red is not the only color which the strata present. There are
grey gandstones and limestones, beds of white, grey, and rose-colored gypsum, and different
shades of blue and red. Thus blue shales, or blue clays, were the portions of the formation first
seen a short distance beyond Delaware mountain. Grey sandstone is of frequent occurrence,
alternating with the red ; and at Denudation mountain, beds of white siliceous limestone are
found at the upper part, and are the hardest portions, while below, strata of red sandstone
predominate, and are separated by beds of red shale, which split up into thin leaves. The
color of the marls and clays was frequently observed to be like that of the dregs of wine — " lie
de vin;" they were found near Camp No. 21, and between Camps 22 and 23, and again west of
the Sierra Madre, near Zufii. At Camp No. 19 the clays were red and blue, and were rather
hard, and associated with a brecciated sandstone. Fragments of dolomite were also seen.
Beyond there, white clay was found above gypsum, and a bed of very hard sandstone, coarse-
grained and feldspathic. The red or wine-colored clays near Camp 22 were overlaid by a sandy,
red, brecciated limestone, passing into a reddish-grey sandstone.

The soft marls were observed, in many instances, to pass into sandstone by becoming more
sandy, as near Camp 23, where saliferous marls were found to become so sandy that a true red
sandstone with an alternation of grey was formed. Marls were again observed to pass into
fine red sandstone and into red siliceous limestone between Camps 24 and 25. Near Camp 29
the strata of red sandstone were nearly 150 feet thick, and at Camp 30 the following section
was obtained in the bank :

Argillaceous dolomite 6 feet.

White gypsum 25 "

Sandstone and argillaceous shales and red clay 10 "

The red sandstone and red clay appear to predominate at all the localities of gypsum, but
near Camp 42, green and red saliferous marls occur, and cliffs of white sandstone, a little rose-
colored,^are found along the creeks. Along Rio Bonito this sandstone was found to contain
calcareous concretions and beds of white limestone. At Arroyo Amarillo, (Yellow creek,) some

LITHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS OF THE GYPSUM FORMATION.

71

beds of sandy marl, instead of being red and green, are greenish-yellow, and somewbat dolo-
mitic. Beyond tbis point, red sandy marls with some green and yellow bands, were constantly
found. (Notes, September 15 and 16.) Tbe sandstone of Eocky Delaware creek, according to
tbe notes, is whitish-grey, with some shales of a rosy hue. The specimen in the collection No.
65 is a grey, friable, calcareous sandstone, which crumbles away under the fingers. It re-
sembles recent or Tertiary sandstones. A thickness of 150 feet of red and greyish marls above
this sandstone is also noted. They have green tints. Beds of shaly sandstones, of a rose and
red color, are also found. It is possible that these strata belong to the overlying cretaceous de-
posites of the Llano. Mr. Marcou is of the opinion that the greyish -white sandstone is Triassic,
and by no means Cretaceous. (Notes, September 18.) In a section of 500 feet in depth, from
the level of the surface of the Llano downward, the following succession of deposites were found,
the upper ones belonging to the Cretaceous and not to the Gypsum formation :

Mr. Marcou places the dividing line between the Trias and the formations above at the base
of the lower bed of white sandstone, in contact with a thin bed of grey and green earth or sand-
stone. He also states that the red clay predominates, and has green and white bands, while
the red is sometimes wine-colored, and much resembles the Keuper of Brissot. The only indi-
cation of the line of separation between these formations appears in this case to be the color, for
no fossils were found. At Anton Chico red marls occur, and appear to predominate from this
place west to the mountains, forming tbe bottoms of the canons.

West of the Sierra Madre the reddish sandstone and clay was found in the beds of the brooks.
Near Camp 75 crystals of gypsum were found in the clays and red sandstone ; and a short dis-
tance beyond, a sandy red clay, sometimes brownish-red at the base, was abundant, and many
fossil trees were seen. Between Camps 76 and 77 the great number of fossil trees already de-
Scribed was found. Here the sandstone was grey in color, or pinkish, very hard, and thickly
bedded — the layers being from three to six feet thick. The red clays are, however, said to pre-
dominate, and a little whitish-grey clay was seen. This was regarded as the middle part of the
Trias by Mr. Marcou. (Notes, December 3.) Ked, blue, and grey clays, supposed to belong
to the inferior Trias, were subsequently found, and along the Colorado Chiquito red sandstone
and marl, with white marls below them, were the prevailing rocks.

There are several specimens in the collection, labelled Triassic by Mr. Marcou, and they are
described in Chapter X. The localities from which they were obtained have been described in
the preceding descriptions. They are all from the Atlantic slope, none being found from the
red strata in the valley of the Rio Grande or west of the Sierra Madre. They are all soft and
friable — the clays and marls having, to all appearance, been so soft when collected, that they
were moulded like wet clay. In hardness they do not compare with the specimens from the
Gypsum formation brought in by Captain Pope, United States Topographical Engineers, from the
route near the thirty-second parallel.1 It is, however, very probable that the strata are not

1 For a description of these specimens, see the writer's report on the Geology of the route near the 32d parallel : TaciQc
Railroad Exploraion and Surveys.

SECTION AT PYRAMID MOUNTAIN.

500 feet. -

White limestone.

Yellow limestone with bluish-grey bed at the bottom.

Bed containing Ostrea [ ?]

White sandstone.
Yellow sandstone.
White sandstone.

Grey and green bed in contact with the superior Trias.

Red and green sandstone.

White marls with [concretions ?]

Red and green marls.

White.

Red.

- "Jurassic."

- "Triassic."

72

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

fully represented, as indeed we know they are not, when we compare the descriptions with the
collection.

We have thus seen that strata of various colors are found intercalated, and that the red marls
and sandstones predominate. It also appears that the red color is most common or striking
along the valley of the Canadian hefore the Muffs of the Llano are reached, and again on the
western limits of the formation along the Colorado Chiquito.

Gypsum. — In the preceding description of the sandstones and marls of the formation, an
account of the various heds of gypsum was purposely avoided, in order that they might be
more directly compared. Many specimens of this mineral are in the collection, and are par-
ticularly described in Chapter X ; and further details respecting the quantity of the mineral,
and its uses in the arts, will be found in Chapter VIII. The part of the route near which
it appears to occur in the greatest abundance is along the valley of the False Washita, about
northeast from the Witchita mountains. Most of the specimens are from Gypsum and Comet
creeks, and the vicinity of Camp 30.

At this point a bed twenty-five feet thick was found, and it has already been mentioned, and
its association with the red sandstone and shales given. Between Camps 33 and 34, beds from
one to twenty feet thick were found above strata of magnesian limestone, the bed at Camp 30
being below. These beds of gypsum are described as white, and traversed with rose-colored
and grey veins ; and the bed at Camp 30 is amorphous and white. Near Camp 41, beds from
six inches to one foot in thickness are found ; and beyond this point to the valley of the Rio
Grande, very little gypsum appears to have been seen. One specimen in the collection is from
San Antonio, the village at the eastern base of the Sandia mountains. There are no specimens
in the collection from any point west of this locality, nor are there many observations on the
gypsum. It does not appear to have been abundant beyond the valley of the Rio Grande,
where we know that it occurs, and is used in considerable quantities as a substitute for glass.
Its presence in the red sandstone and marl near the summit of the pass, in the Sierra Madre, is
mentioned, but the thickness or extent of the bed, if indeed it forms one, is not given. (See
notes, November 18.) It occurs in nodules between Camps 71 and 72, and near Camp 75 in
crystals, distributed in the red marl and sandstone. It was also seen at the crossing of the
Colorado Chiquito in thick kidney-shaped masses in the red sandstone.

Although an enormous amount of gypsum is exposed along the route, the deposites do not
equal in their extent and quantity those found by Captain Pope along the Pecos river and
Delaware creek, on the route near the 32d parallel. There, according to Captain Pope, the
beds are fifty feet thick, and form bluffs, which are full of caverns.1

We must be careful to avoid the impression that the gypsum beds are continuous throughout
the formation, or that they retain their thickness for great distances. The facts show that the
thick beds are confined to a small portion of the route. Although we find the red sandstones
on both sides of the mountains bordering the valley of the Rio Grande, and the strata appear
to be geologically equivalent, there is a great difference between the different portions in respect
to the amount of gypsum, and the form in which it occurs. It predominates on the Atlantic
slope of the mountains, and is most abundant a few miles east of the last outliers of the table-
land of the Llano Estacado, in the vicinity of Gypsum and Comet creeks, and near the cretaceous
deposites of Camp 31. The term Gypsum formation thus applies more appropriately to the
eastern than to the western portions of this wide-spread deposite of red marls, clays, and sand-
stones, o

Dolomite. — Magnesian limestone or dolomite appears to form an important part of the
formation, and is closely associated with the gypsum. The bed of dolomite which overlies
the gypsum at Camp 30 is argillaceous, cavernous, and, of a reddish color. A similar rock
was again observed between Camps 32 and 33. Between Camps 40 and 41 a bank of dolo-

1 Report of Captain Pope, United States Topographical Engineers ; also, report on the Geology of the route : U. S.
Pacific Railroad Exploration and Surveys. Washington : 1856.

GYPSUM FORMATION DISTURBANCES OF THE STRATA.

73

mite is noted as three or four feet high and cavernous, with rose-colored beds, as at Salins.
(See notes, September 11.) The red clays occur above and below this dolomite. In ascending
the bluffs of the Llano Estacado, between Camps 41 and 42, strata of dolomite from three to
five feet thick were found, and at Camp 42 it was very abundant. A sandy dolomite is noted
as present in the face of the bluffs near Cuesta ; and I find a large specimen of compact dolo-
mite in the collection (No. 61) taken from San Antonio, southwest of Cuesta, but which does
not appear to be mentioned in the descriptions. This rock is bituminous, and may pertain to
the Lower Carboniferous. The dolomites do not appear to have been found in the valley of the
Rio Grande, nor in any quantity west of the Sierra Madre, until the base of the volcano of
San Francisco was reached. We may, perhaps, except the beds of yellowish limestone asso-
ciated with the bituminous shales at Ojo Pescado, but which are very probably of carboniferous
age. The strata of magnesian limestone beyond the Colorado Chiquito are mentioned in the
general description of the carboniferous formation, and their probable carboniferous age is
noted. According to Mr. Marcou, they occur in concordant stratification with the strata of the
"New Red" sandstone with which they alternate, and attain a thickness of six inches to one foot.
This description must refer to other strata than those seen along Canon Diablo, which were very
much thicker, forming the walls of the ravine, one hundred feet deep, but which were con-
formable with the red strata. It is very probable that the upper beds are interstratified with
sandstone. A specimen in the collection from the Colorado Chiquito, and probably taken from
this locality, much resembles the . specimen from San Antonio. The collection contains many
specimens of the magnesian limestones, and they are all described in Chapter X. (See Nos.
60, 61, 62, 63, and 64.) With the exception of the specimen from near Camp 30, they are all
hard and compact, and of light grey or buff color.

Thickness of the formation, — In a formation of this character — one evidently resulting from
the metamorphosis or change of strata, entirely different in color and mineral ingredients, and
which we cannot separate exactly from formations either above or below — it is of course not
possible to state definitely the thickness, or to give an average thickness for the whole series of
beds as a distinct formation. The thickness of the red strata appears to be the greatest on the
eastern slope of the Albuquerque mountains, under the Llano Estacado, and perhaps near the
point where the gypsum is most abundant. There is, however, no valley of erosion in these
horizontal strata deep enough to expose all the beds, nor is there at any point an uplift which
brings them all into view ; the thickness, therefore, must remain unknown. The same obser-
vation will apply to the strata west of the Sierra Madre and in the valley of the Rio Grande ;
there are no erosions of a depth sufficient to develop the whole thickness of the formation down
to strata of undoubted Carboniferous age. The exposures at any point appear to have never
shown a greater thickness than two or three hundred feet, the thickness of the white sandstones
and chalky limestones of the Llano being subtracted from the depths of the valleys. Mr.
Marcou, however, in his notes, states that the Trias has a thickness of four or five thousand
feet, (October 9 ;) and again, that the thickness of the variegated marls, or the superior part
of the American Trias, is considerable — not less than three hundred feet above the gypsum.
In the Resume, he states that the lower division of the " Trias" attains a thickness of two to
three thousand feet, the middle of about fifteen hundred, and the upper of fifteen hundred ;
making for the whole a thickness of five to six thousand feet.1 It is probable that these arc
estimates based upon the apparent thickness of the beds as they were passed successively in
ascending the valley of the Washita and Canadian, and in descending from the Sierra Madre
west along the valley of the Colorado Chiquito.

It is certainly very important to determine as nearly as possible the thickness of these strata ;
but this does not appear possible, as neither the upper nor lower limits can yet be determined.

Disturbances of the strata. — The strata were generally found to be horizontal, or nearly so,
being conformable with the cretaceous strata of the Llano Estacado. The first observation on

1 Resume, &c. Report of Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, 8vo., Hovise Doc. 129, pages 42 and 48.

10 t

74

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

the position of the strata is found in the notes under date of August 22, when they were
ohserved to he horizontal or nearly so. This was hetween Camps No. 21 and No. 22. The
next day, heyond Camp 22, the strata were ohserved to dip southwest at an angle of from five
to ten degrees. At Camp 28 the strata were inclined at an angle of ten degrees towards the
south, the trend heing east and west. Beyond Camp 28 the strata were horizontal. This was
in the vicinity of Rock Mary and other natural mounds formed hy the denudation of horizontal
strata. The great heds of gypsum at and near Camp 30 were horizontal ; hut near Camp 31 a
hed of gypsum dipped towards the north at an angle of ten degrees. From this place to the
vicinity of Canon Blanco (Camp 54) the strata appear to he horizontal ; hut in the canon they,
together with the upper strata — the Jurassic, according to Mr. Marcou — are inclined towards
the southeast, and the heads of the heds are turned towards the mountains. Beyond this, and
on the next day, a line of hills was passed, in which the strata were uplifted and dipped each
way under various angles, from fifteen to sixty degrees. The disturbance was so great that
portions of the upper strata, the yellow sandstone, had slid upon the marls of the formation,
and in some places were overturned. (October 1.) The explorations of the next day developed
the existence of dykes of trap, one being found ten feet wide, cutting the strata in a direction
" 30° E.E.N, to 30° W.W.S." Beyond this the beds of the "Trias" are said to be upheaved,
and generally inclined to the south-southeast, under angles of ten or fifteen degrees. A short
distance beyond Camp 57, on the Santa Fe river, Mr. Marcou saw, in the north, elevated hori-
zontal beds of " New Red," capped with a layer of basaltic lava. This locality is almost south
of Santa Fe, and beyond the Santa Fe mountains. At San Antonio, on the eastern side of the
Sandia or Albuquerque mountains, the strata dipped towards the east, the angle of inclination
varying from twenty to forty-five degrees. A few miles northeast of this place trap dykes were
found traversing the <£ Trias " in several directions, as has been already described.

In the valley between the Sierra Madre and the Santa Fe and Albuquerque mountains, a
short distance beyond the Puerco, beds of greyish-blue clays and yellow sandstone dip to the
east at angles of ten or twenty degrees. Near Sheep's spring Mr. Marcou saw the clays and
the red sandstone of the "Trias" rising underneath similar strata and dipping to the east at a low
angle. This inclination is shown in a small sectional representation accompanying the notes,
November 13. The formation, however, on this part of the line appears to be generally hori-
zontal, or nearly so. Near Camp 67, on the east side of the summit of the pass in the Sierra
Madre leading to Zuiii, there are, according to Mr. Marcou, very well developed red Triassic
sandstones, dipping S.S.E. Beyond the mountains, and in the valley of Zuiii, the "Trias"
inclines towards the east, at an angle of from ten to fifteen degrees. North of this place, and
in the line of trend of the Sierra Madre, the red strata are, according to Mr. Campbell's state-
ments, strongly uplifted, and dip eastward and westwardly. The edges of the strata may be
seen about Fort Defiance in high bluffs. This is a region where trap dykes abound, a large
one being found near the fort.

At many points west of those last mentioned, the beds of the gypsum formation were found
to be upraised at slight angles dipping east, west, or north, but these angles in no instance were
greater than ten degrees. Mr. Marcou refers the disturbances to three lines of dislocation. The
dip along the Colorado Chiquito is from eight to ten degrees northward, and the strata were, to
all appearance, dipping away from the Sierra Mogoyon, where the plateau seemed to end, the
surface being gently ascending in that direction.

We thus find that the line of greatest disturbance or inclination of the strata of the formation
is on the eastern side of the Albuquerque and Gold mountains, where it reaches forty and sixty
degrees. The inclination at other points seldom is as great as fifteen degrees. The principal
disturbance appears to be confined to one line, and this a line of erupted trappean rocks in the
form of dykes, whose presence is a sufficient explanation for the dislocations of the strata. So,
also, at Fort Defiance, where the uplifts are great, we find trap dykes, which are conspicuous
features in the scenery of the region. The flexures along the Washita and the Canadian,

GYPSUM FORMATION, ITS PROBABLE AGE.

75

although very slight, may he referred to erupted rocks in the granitic region of the Witchita
mountains.

We may for the most part regard the strata as horizontal, and undisturhed hy the uplift of
either of the great granitic ranges, which are more recent than the Carboniferous. We may con~
elude from the notes, and the observations of others, and from the topographical indications, that
the formation extends continuously in nearly horizontal beds from one side of the central chain
of mountains to the other, occupying the wide depressions, or passes, between the ranges. It
occurs, according to Mr. Marcou, along the valley of the G-alisteo river, and a short distance
north of Camp 56, (G-alisteo.) This place is directly in the line of the Santa Fe mountains,
and between their south end and the north end of the Gold mountains. The white sandstone
and calcareous strata of the Llano are also found to extend through this break in the mountains,
and are cut by a trap dyke four hundred yards- north of Camp 56. (See notes, October 2.) Mr.
Marcou also records passing from Camp D (probably at Galisteo) to Camp E, or the Pecos
village, through "canons in the Trias, as far as old Pecos, the top of the canons being of
Jurassic sandstone." From this I conclude that the " Trias" and the "Jurassic" were horizon-
tal at the east base of the Santa Fe mountain, and this conclusion is in accordance with the
topography, as given by Abert and Peck, in their map of 1846-7. I have been thus particular
to present the evidences of continuity of these deposites from one side of the mountains to the
other, as Mr. Marcou represents them in his Resume, as upraised or dislocated by the "Rocky
mountains," the dislocation of which, he states, took place at the end of the Jurassic period.1

Having thus shown that the gypsum formation extends from one side of the mountains to the
other, undisturbed or dislocated only by local intrusions of trap, we may conclude that the prin-
cipal uplifts of the central chain took place before its deposition, and that a grand continental
elevation of over seven thousand feet has taken place since that time.

REMARKS ON THE PROBABLE AGE OP THE FORMATION, AND A CONSIDERATION OP ITS REPORTED SYN-
CHRONISM WITH THE TRIAS OF EUROPE.

In a formation of this character, where the upper and lower limits have not been clearly
traced throughout, and where the peculiar conditions which give it a name may occur in strata
of an entirely different age, either above or below, and which is also without internal fossil
evidences, we cannot properly speak of it as distinct, or assign it a place in the geological se-
ries, as one group with an age isolated by time from those above and below. The peculiar
mineral conditions which distinguish the strata, and which have served to group them for the
purposes of description, are the result of causes acting since they were deposited, producing ap-
pearances entirely different from those which characterized them at the time of their deposition,
and acting alike on all the formations, either Carboniferous, Triassic, or Cretaceous, without
regard to their age or separation by time. We cannot, therefore, discuss the age of the strata
described under the name Gypsum formation, as if they constituted one separate geological group.
We cannot, however, lose sight of the possibility that in these deposites so characterized, and
differing so much from the known carboniferous and cretaceous strata, we may have the equiva-
lents of formations which occupy the same relative position in other regions. But the observa-
tions which have been made do not get justify the establishment of bounding lines, and conse-
quently, as we have seen, no determinations of the thickness can be made. It is true that for a
considerable distance in the valleys cutting the Llano Estacado, there is a distinct line formed
by the junction of the white sandstones and limestones above with the red strata below, but at
many points the strata are all light-colored, and the only distinguishing difference — that of
color — is wanting.

These opinions are, however, very different from those presented by Mr. Marcou in his aotes
and Resume. He recognises a distinct and well-characterized formation, which he considers as
the equivalent in age of the Trias of European geologists. He gives its whole thickness as four

Resume. Report of Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, H. Doc. 129, p. 46.

76

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

or five thousand feet, and separates it provisionally into three divisions : the first, or lower, cor-
responding to the Bunter-sandstein, or Gres bigarres; the second, or middle, to the Muschelkalk;
and the third, or upper, to the Keuper or Marnes irisees.1

Mr. Marcou's conclusions upon the age of the formation, and the correspondence with the
groups into which the European formation is divided, appear to rest almost entirely upon the
mineral characters of the strata. The only distinct fossils found were silicified trunks of trees,
one of which was thought to " very much resemhle the Pinites Jleurotii of Dr. Mougeot." As
no specimen of this tree is in the collection, I have not had an opportunity to examine it ; hut
even if it were proved to he identical with P. Jleurotii, I cannot agree with Mr. Marcou in his

1 For the convenience of the general reader, I append a short description of the Trias of Europe with its divisions, and of
the Permian formation as developed in Russia.

In England and France, we find between the strata of the coal formation and those of the Lias a great series of red sandstones
and shales, to which the name New Red Sandstone was first given, in order to distinguish between it and similar rocks which are
found below the coal, and are known as the Old Red Sandstones. The name Poikilitic was afterwards proposed, this name having
reference to the variegated colors of the strata. After the fossil remains of the series had been more fully investigated, it was
found desirable to form two divisions, and these were called Upper New Red and Lower New Red. The first is now generally
known as the Trias ; while the second, or Lower New Red, is called Permian.

The name Trias was adopted by German writers, because the Upper New Red Sandstone could be separated into three principal
subdivisions, which were called the "Keuper," the " Muschelkalk," and the "Bunter-sandstein." The same subdivisions are
known among French geologists as the " Marnes irisees," the " Calcaire coguillier," and the ;I Grls bigarri." These subdivisions,
with their respective terms in German and French, are clearly shown in the annexed table, taken from Lyell's Geology.0

SYNONYMS.

Trias, or Upper New Red Sandstone. -

German. French.

a. Saliferous and gypseus shales and sand- \ Keuper. Marnes irisees.
stones. /

b. (Wanting in England.) "1 Muschelkalk. Muschelkalk, ou cal-

/ caire coquillier.

c. Sandstone and quartzose conglomerate. Bunter-sandstein. Gres bigarr6.

In England, the upper division of the Trias consists chiefly of fine red clays and thinly bedded sandstones, interstratified with
beds of gypsum, and containing rock-salt. This division has nearly the same characters in Germany, consisting of variegated
marls, with gypsum and sandstone. Fossils have been found in it, such as teeth of placoid fish, and remains of reptiles, inclu-
ding the Labyrinthodon. The fossil plants are generically analogous to those of the Lias and Oolite, and consist of ferns, equiseta-
ceous plants, cycads, and conifers, with a few doubtful monocotyledons. In France, the Keuper, or Marnes irisees, have a very
variable composition, and consist of beds of limestone, more or less clayey, and of strata of wine-colored clay, sometimes greenish
and bluish. These strata and colors are much intermingled, and give the highly variegated color to the division — the character
upon which its name is based.

The great deposites of rock-salt of Cheshire county, England, are found in connexion with the gypsum and marls of the Keuper.

The middle division of the Trias — the Muschelkalk, or Calcaire coquillier — is not found in England, but is developed in Germany
and France, where it consists of a fossiliferous magnesian limestone, and beds of marl. The following description of this division
as it occurs in France, is translated from Beudant : f " The Calcaire conchylieu commences by alternating at its base with the
Grls bigarri, while in its upper portions it passes into the Marnes irisees, which overlie it. The limestone is generally compact,
greyish, green, or yellow. The upper portions are often magnesian, and frequently earthy. It gradually shades into the marls
of the Marnes irisies, (Keuper,) among which some beds of limestone, either pure or magnesian, are again found. It often
presents siliceous pebbles of considerable size, and contains a large quantity of shells."

The Bunter-sandstein, or Grls bigarri, consists of sandstones, alternating with thin beds of dolomite and beds of clay. Ac-
cording to Beudant, the sandstone is quartzose, fine-grained, and generally of a red color ; portions of it are white, blue and
green, which produces the mixture (bigarrure) of colors to which it owes its name. In England, this lower division of the
Trias is found developed in Cheshire and Lancashire counties. It consists of red and green shales, and red sandstones, and con-
tains much soft white quartzose sandstone, in which the trunks of silicified trees have been found. These were of coniferous
wood, and showed rings of annual growth. J Impressions of the feet of animals have also been found.

The Trias, as developed in England and on the continent, is of variable thickness. In the salt region of Cheshire, the total
thickness is said to be at least 1,700 feet.g The upper group of the Keuper attains a thickness of 700 feet.

According to Messrs. Murchison and Strickland,! this upper division is about 600 feet thick in Worcestershire and Warwick-
shire. In Wirtemburg, the Keuper is 1,000 feet thick.«| The Muschelkalk of the middle division is not found in England, but its

• Elements, 5th edition, p. 335.

fBeudant Geologie, p. 211.

t Lyell, Elements of Geology, 5th edition, p. 339.

? Phillips, p. 266.

|| Geol. Trans., second series, Vol. V, p. 318.

f Lyell, Elements of Geology, 5th edition, p. 335.

GYPSUM FOEMATION, ITS PROBABLE AGE.

77

statement "that it establishes a connexion between the New Red of France and that of
America."

The collection contains a specimen from Camp 47, labelled " Upper Trias," which is a silicified
fragment of the trunk of a Lepidodendron.

Great value appears to have been placed in the indications of age presented by the deposite of
gypsum — this mineral being considered characteristic of the New Red or Triassic formations.
The divisions of the formation are so arranged by Mr. Marcou that the gypsum deposites are
included in the middle group. He regards them as establishing a connexion with the gypseous
strata of Nova Scotia, at Windsor and Plaister Cove, and at Prince Edward Island, also with
the strata of New Jersey.1 These deposites at "Windsor and Plaister Cove have been shown by
Mr. Dawson2 to be in the carboniferous formation, where they are closely associated with the
characteristic fossils of that period, such as Productus Lyelli, Terebratula elongata, Fenestella
membranacea, Spiriferi, Orthoceras, and Connularia.

Gypsum is found in the carboniferous formation, not only in Nova Scotia, but in Iowa and
in Virginia. In Iowa it occurs along the bank of the Des Moines in beds twenty-five feet thick,
resting on pink shales.3 It also occurs in large quantities in other formations in different parts
of the world, and it is by no means characteristic of the New Red sandstone or Trias alone.

equivalent, consisting of laminated sandstone, called water-stone, is 400 feet thick in Cheshire. The English representative of
the " Bunter," or lower division, reaches a thickness of over 600 feet in the same locality, and in the Hartz mountains is over
1,000 feet thick. The total thickness of the Trias, as developed in England and on the continent, may be considered as nearly
2,000 feet.

The characteristics of the lower or second great division of the New Red Sandstone, called Permian, or magnesian limestone
also claims our attention in this place.

Permian. — The careful study of the rocks of the New Red Sandstone developed the fact, that the lower portion of the group
contained fossils, which were connected in a measure with those of the carboniferous era, and which were entirely different from
those of the Trias. This fact was first brought prominently forward by Sir Roderick Murchison and his associates, who proposed
for the division the name Permian® "derived frorn the ancient kingdom of Permia, Russia, within and around which the neces-
sary evidences have been obtained."f The formations to which this name has been given attain an enormous development in
Russia. According to the authorities just cited, the " deposites repose upon carboniferous strata throughout more than two-thirds,
of a basin, which has a circumference of not less than 4,000 English miles."t These deposites are of very varied mineral aspect,
and consist of grits, sandstones, marls, conglomerates, and limestone, sometimes enclosing great masses of gypsum and rock-salt.
They are also much impregnated with copper, and occasionally with sulphur.? The general characters of the strata have also
been summed up by Sir R. Murchison, in his recent work, Siluria. This description, coming from such distinguished authority,
and from one who has so ably investigated the formation, I cannot but quote in full :

" Occupying the enormous area before mentioned, the Permian deposites of Russia are flanked and underlaid on the west, east,
and north by upper members of the carboniferous rocks, but with little or no coal. These Permian strata of Russia seldom
exhibit a mineral succession similar to that of rocks of the same age in Western Europe; and in different tracts of the vast region
explored, they exhibit, as explained in the preceding quotation, many variations in their contents and relations. In some places,
as on the river Kama, near the Volga, cupriferous red grits, with plants, underlie the chief limestones, to which succeed marls-
but along the eastern limits of the system, as flanked by the Ural mountains, gypseous limestones form the base, followed by the
red copper grits, sands, marls, and pebble beds, which extend on all sides around the city of Perm. On the whole, indeed,
whether we appealed to the sections on the banks of the great Dwina, above Archangel, or to the western flank of the Ural
mountains, or to the banks of the Lower Volga, near Kazan, localities removed from each other by vast distances, we found that
limestones, often interstratified with much gypsum, prevailed towards the base of the Russian deposites."||

1 Mr. Marcou also connects this formation, or its lowest group, with the " red sandstone that forms more than half the
contour of Lake Superior." (See Resume".) It is hardly necessary to state that Messrs. Foster and Whitney, D. D. Owen,
and Sir Wm. Logan and his corps, have severally examined this sandstone with care, and consider it to be the equivalent
of the Potsdam sandstone of New York. Its Triassic age is not admitted.

2 Acadian Geology, p. 219.

3 Report of a Geological Survey of Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, by Dr. D. D. Owen : Philadelphia, 1852 ; p. 126.

•We are indebted for this elegant and comprehensive name to Sir R. Murchison, with whom it originated in 1841, as appears
by the following note, taken from the foot of page 291 of Siluria : " The term was first proposed in a letter addressed by myself,
at Moscow, to the venerable and accomplished Russian palaeontologist, Dr. Fischer, October, 1841. See Brown and Leonhardt
Journal, an. 1841, and Phil. Mag., Vol. XIX, p. 417.

t Russia and the Ural Mountains : Murchison De Verneuil and Von Keyserling, Vol. I, p. 138.

t Ibid., Vol. 1, p. 220.

I Russia and the Ural Mountains, Vol. I, p. 138.
!| Siluria, pp. 294, 295.

78

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

Tbus we find it in quantities in the Tertiary strata of Tuscany, where the large quantities of
beautiful alabaster used for ornamental purposes are obtained. The vast deposites in the Andes
of South America are associated with red sandstone and calcareous shales, and are believed to
be in the lower cretaceous group.

Gynsum is a common mineral in the soft and horizonal Tertiary strata of California, and is
frequently found with red shales. It occurs at Ocoya creek in the Miocene, and along the
entrance to the mountains from the desert in the red shales and sandstones of Carrizo creek, on
the summit of which a thick bed of Miocene Tertiary fossils rests in a conformable position.1

It is thus seen tbat gypsum beds are by no means characteristic of the Triassic strata alone,
but that it is a widely diffused mineral, being found from the upper Tertiary down to the Lower
Carboniferous. In fact we may expect to find it in any formation where the mineral conditions
are favorable, and which have been subjected to decomposition and change either from the
nature of the included minerals, or by the percolation of acid waters from above or below. The
gypsum is by no means to be regarded as laid down at the time of the deposition of the strata,
but is a more modern formation, the result of decomposition and recomposition of the materials
present in the strata, or supplied from without.

We also find that the strata which the formation was thought to resemble, the gypseous strata
of Windsor, Nova Scotia, and Plaister Cove, are not Triassic, but Carboniferous. This evidence,
therefore, so far as it can be considered such, denotes a carboniferous age for the formation.

The occurrence of salt and saliferous clays also appears to be regarded as evidence of the
Triassic age of the formation. This mineral, like the gypsum, is found in many formations of
different ages, being obtained in quantities in the Carboniferous and in the Cretaceous and Ter-
tiary. Its occurrence is by no means to be regarded as evidence of the Triassic age of the
strata.

Another point of resemblance to the Triassic formation is found in the beds of dolomite or
magnesian limestone; but at the point where this rock is best developed, according to the
descriptions, along the Colorado Chiquito, it appears to be conformable with the carboniferous
limestone, and is not separated from it by any great thickness of strata. In the absence of
fossils, we cannot draw the line, and determine whether these magnesian limestones do not in
fact belong to the Carboniferous. Their position favors this conclusion, the carboniferous lime-
stone being the nearest rock identified by fossils.

One of the strongest evidences of the presence of Triassic strata is found in the great thickness
of the formation, if Mr. Marcou has not been misled regarding it. If the red gypseous strata
attain a thickness of 6,000 feet, we may, with much reason, look for strata intermediate in age
between the Carboniferous and the Cretaceous. But after a careful consideration of the whole
matter, I am compelled to differ from the conclusion to which Mr. Marcou has arrived, and
cannot regard the Triassic age of the formation as established. Triassic strata may be there,
but their presence and their divisions are yet to be determined by fossils.

The peculiar characteristics of the formation, as described, and its position relatively to
the Carboniferous, suggest the possible Permian age of a portion, at least, of the strata. The
resemblance of the lithological characters and position to the Permian deposites of Russia, as
described by Sir R. J. Murchison, cannot fail to be noticed; and yet, being without fossils, we
are not authorized to determine upon the age. We can only say, that the strata lie between
known cretaceous beds above and carboniferous below. They may be in part cretaceous, as
they most probably are — in part carboniferous, or may possibly contain representatives of all
the Secondary group below the Cretaceous.

: I have already presented most of these facts, which show the distribution of gypsum in various formations and the
impossibility of relying upon it as an evidence of the geological age of any series of strata, in the Report on the Geology of
the route near the thirty-second parallel, explored by Brevet Captain Pope, U. S. Topographical Engineers. See
Pacific Railroad Exploration and Surveys.

CRETACEOUS FORMATION — FOSSILS — LLANO,

79

CRETACEOUS.

The route followed by the expedition having been, for a long distance west of Little Eock,
in the valley of the Arkansas and Canadian rivers, and along the broad belt of carboniferous
strata extending southwesterly into Texas, no deposites, which could be recognised as cretaceous,
were seen until Camp 31, on the False Washita, was reached. It is, however, well known that
the cretaceous formation is well developed around Fort Washita, a point nearly south of Dela-
ware mountain, and it probably extends nearly parallel with the route, but eouth of the car-
boniferous hills, nearly to Little Eock, where it disappears beneath more modern strata, and is
again exposed on the east side of the Mississippi, in the States of Mississippi and Tennessee.

The now well-known cretaceous fossil, Gryphma Pitcherii, was originally obtained from the
Kimichi Plains, south of the route between Little Eock and Fort Smith. The same species,
according to Mr. Marcou, was obtained on the route at Camp 31, on the False Washita, together
with fragments of Ostrea and Pecten quinque costatus. Specimens of the gryphaea are in the
collection, (see catalogue and description, and Plate I, fig. — ;) but there are no specimens of
the other fossils. The next point which is identified as cretaceous by the fossils is in the valley
of the Canadian, at Pyramid mountain, one of the remnants of the plateau of the Llano. Here
Mr. Marcou obtained a gryphaaa, which he at first considered a new species, and called it
G. Tucumcarii. He, however, does not regard it as a cretaceous fossil, but as Jurassic.
North of this place, in the valley of the Arkansas, numerous specimens of Inoceramus were
obtained from similar positions in the bluff borders of the plateau, by Dr. Scheil, who accom-
panied Captain Gunnison, and they were also found there several years ago, by Dr. A. Eandall.
Lieutenant Simpson also mentions the occurrence of similar fossils in the vicinity of the Tucum-
cari hills, or Plaza Larga.1 Dr. Wislizenus found casts of Inoceramus in the schistose lime-
stone of the bluffs of Gallinas creek, and describes the strata as Cretaceous.2 Mr. Marcou also
saw imperfect fossils from the bluffs near Camp 46, which led him to conclude the Llano to be
Cretaceous. (Notes, September 18th.) Passing further west, cretaceous fossils were obtained
by Mr. Marcou about three miles north of Galisteo, in sandy clay and sandstone. (See notes,
October 10th.) Mr. Marcou mentions a tooth and vertebra of a Saurian and an Ostrea, also
Inoceramus or Plicatulus. Specimens of sandstone from this place, containing fragments of
fossils, are in the collection. (See No. 126 of the catalogue.) This locality is between the
south point of Santa Fe mountain and Gold mountain, nearly at the summit of the pass in the
mountains, and on the borders of Eio Galisteo, one of the tributaries of the Eio Grande. The
same deposite is mentioned in the Eesume, and is there referred to the age of the white chalk.
I also find in the collection a specimen, No. 131, labelled as taken from a point near Las Lunas,
between the Eio Grande and the Puerco; also, a specimen labelled Terrain Cretace, from a point
between Galisteo and Gold mountain. Mr. Marcou also mentions, in his notes of November
28th, the occurrence of rolled or worn specimens of Gryphaea, which appeared to be Jurassic.
This was beyond Zuhi, west of the Sierra Madre. The collection does not contain any of these
last-mentioned specimens.

Most, if not all, of these cretaceous fossils were procured from the edges of the horizontal
strata which compose the extensive table-lands along the route, and they indicate to us the cre-
taceous age of the Llano Estacado. Further evidence of this is found in the collection made by
Captain John Pope, on the Llano, further south, near the parallel of 32°. He procured speci-
mens of Gryphaia in the bluffs of the Llano at the Big Springs of the Colorado, and also on the
surface, near the sand-hills, and these fossils, together with the specimens of the strata ami
other evidences, led me to describe the Llano as Cretaceous, in the report on the geology of that

See Simpson's Report, and Chapter II of this Report.
2 See Wislizenus' Report, page 17, and Chapter II of this Report.

80

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

route.1 The Llano is doubtless continuous southeasterly from these localities to the vicinity of
Austin and San Antonio, where it forms bluffs filled with cretaceous fossils already described by
Ferdinand Roemer. There is thus little doubt that the strata of the Llano Estacado and the
other plateaux along the route, resting upon the gypsum formation, are of cretaceous age, sur-
mounted, perhaps, in places by more recent deposites.

Although the strata of the plateau beyond the Sierra Madre were not identified by fossils,
if we except the rolled specimens of Gryphsea, we are led to regard them as of the age of the
Llano, they being similar in their mineral characters, and probably connected with the creta-
ceous deposites of the valley of the Rio Grande, through Campbell's Pass. The altitude of the
plateau and the underlying red strata containing gypsum, as on the east side of the mountains,
leave little doubt of their contemporaneous origin; moreover, cretaceous fossils have been found
in the northwestern parts of this extended area of horizontal strata.2

As the strata which bear the fossils are conformable with the red marls, clays and sandstones
below, which are without fossils, and consequently of undetermined age, and as there is no well-
marked line of separation between them, we cannot decide upon the thickness which the Creta-
ceous attains. It may include the gypseous strata, or at least the upper part of the series.
But as this gypsum formation is separately described, the present descriptions will refer only to
the lighter-colored strata which overlie it, and which form the upper part of the plateau of the
Llano. The extent of these strata will be best seen on the map and section, where they are
colored green, and thus separated from the red, which indicates the gypsum formation below.
The Cretaceous is made coincident with the bluff margins of the Llano, and other plateaux,
and thus may be said to extend along the route from the vicinity of the meridian of 101° to
110°. It also appears in isolated patches or remnants of the table-lands, forming mounds or
columns, as at Camp 31 and Antelope hills, and other points east of the bluff margin of the
Llano.

As the lithological characters of these strata have already been presented in detail in the
descriptions of the geology along the route, they need not be repeated here. The strata are
principally white or grey, and highly calcareous, and are sometimes intercalated, as at Pyramid
mountain, with grey or blue marl or clay. There are few or no specimens in the collection, but
the descriptions lead one to conclude that the strata are very uniform in their appearance along
the route. The specimens which Captain Pope collected on the Llano, further south, are chiefly
light-colored, whitish, or grey calcareous sandstone, and a buff or yellowish limestone, earthy
and amorphous.

The light-colored strata of the Llano do not appear, from the descriptions, to attain a thick-
ness of over 500 or 600 feet at any point, and generally the red strata are described as extending
half-way, or more, up the bluffs, which are from 300 to 600 feet high ; and this leads to the
conclusion that the white strata are generally less than 300 feet thick, but they have been
observed in some localities to form nearly the entire bluffs, from top to bottom. The section of
Pyramid mountain, given in Chapter II, shows the relation between the red and the white strata
at that place, and presents the line of division, not in the centre, but nearly two-thirds of the
distance up from the base. No observations regarding the thickness of each series of beds are
given by Mr. Marcou, but the whole is stated to be 500 feet. The thickness of the white strata,
doubtless, varies in different places, the red color of the strata being produced by decompositions
since the original deposition, and, of course, not being confined to particular beds, but extend-
ing higher or lower according to circumstances.

The extensive and nearly level plateaux which these strata form, sufficiently show their hor-
izontal position. There are few dislocations or disturbances, and the strata are rarely inclined
at angles greater than ten or fifteen degrees. Local uplifts are found among the mountains
near Albuquerque and Santa Fe, where there are intrusions of trap, forming dykes ; but there

1 Report on the Geology of the route near the 32d parallel, by "W. P. Blake, 4to : Washington, 1855.
* See observations on the Geology of the route surveyed by Captain Gunnison, by Dr. Jas. Scheil.

GEOLOGICAL AGE OF THE LLANO ESTACADO.

81

is no good evidence of the uplift of the strata "by the mass of the mountains. So, also, at and
near Fort Defiance there are great dykes of trap, and, according to Mr. Camphell, the strata are
much uplifted and disturbed. Mr. Marcou also records a prevailing dip often or fifteen degrees
towards the north, in the red strata, along the Colorado Chiquito, to which the upper and white
sandstone strata probably conform.

The fact that the strata are nearly or quite continuous from one side of the Anahuachian chain
to the other, through the passes, and that they are nearly horizontal around the base of the
mountains, shows that the uplift took place before the cretaceous period, and that the mountains
were nearly or quite submerged beneath a cretaceous sea. The higher peaks and ranges may
have risen above the waters, and formed a chain of islands, trending nearly north and south.
We are thus led to refer the uplift of the chain, at least in the vicinity of the route, to the
Secondary period, or hetween the close of the Carboniferous and the first deposition of the Cre-
taceous and Gypsum formation.1

Reported Jurassic age of the Llano. — The formations of the Llano and tahle-lands west of
the mountains now described as Cretaceous, are not considered so by Mr. Marcou. In his
Resume, and later publications, he states that they are Jurassic, and they have heen so colored
hy him on maps recently issued. The fossils which are mentioned in the Resume in support of
the Jurassic age of the strata, are as follows: ££ A Gryphaa which has the greatest analogy
with the Gryphcea dilatata of the Oxford clay of England and France, and which I call, pro-
visionally, G. Tucumcarii, and a very large Ostrea, having much resemhlance to the Ostrea
Marshii of the inferior oolite of Europe. I found, also, trigonia, and a species of cardinia.'"2
In the later puhlications by Mr. Marcou the G. Tucumcarii is stated to he identical with G.
dilatata, and the Ostrea with 0. Marshii. These fossils have also been figured by Mr. Marcou.
Specimens of the Gryphaza are in the collection, but the other fossils do not appear. The only
evidence, therefore, of the Jurassic formation, according to Mr. Marcou, which is before me in
the collection, is the single species of GryphaBa, which may or may not he identical with G.
dilatata. It certainly has very considerable resemblance to that fossil, judging from figures ;
hut, even if specifically identical, it cannot he regarded as establishing the presence of Jurassic
strata where it was found. The value of the evidence which the fossil presents, if, indeed, it can
he regarded as furnishing any, is much lessened by the fact that the cretaceous formations of the
Southwest are characterized hy the numher and variety of the species of Gryphaza which they
contain. Species are found with many variations at different localities, and specimens which
very clearly resemhle the G. Tucumcarii are ahundant in the undoubted cretaceous deposites of
New Jersey and Alahama. It is such a variable fossil, and the same species appears under such
different aspects, according to age and locality, that it certainly is not safe to regard the doubt-
ful species, G. Tucumcarii, as evidence of the Jurassic age of the stratum from which it was
taken. It should rather he regarded as showing its cretaceous age. After a careful considera-
tion of this subject, I am compelled to differ from Mr. Marcou in respect to the presence of the
Jurassic formation. Its presence has not heen satisfactorily shown hy the fossils, and all other
observations lead to the conclusion that the strata of the Llano are Cretaceous.

TERTIARY FORMATIONS.

The geological collection furnishes little or no evidence of the presence of Tertiary formations
along the line of the survey. There are no fossils which can be referred with certainty to this
period, nor are there many rock specimens which have the aspect of such recent deposites. We
may, however, except some of the specimens coming from the Llano Estacado, some of them
much resemhling Tertiary sandstones and marls. As, however, we cannot determine the ago

1 See, also, a paper, by the author, read before the American Association for the Advancement of Science, August, 1S56 ;
Albany meeting.

3 Resume". Report of Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, 8vo., Chap. VI, p. 44. See, also, Appendix.
11 t

82

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

of a rock by its lithological characters, the resemblance cannot be regarded as good evidence of
their Tertiary age. The mineral characters are, nevertheless, of great importance as an indi-
cation of the age, and it is presumed that Mr. Marcou was chiefly guided by them in assigning
the age to the sandstone strata found on the route at and beyond Cactus Pass.

We do not find in the notes made by Mr. Marcou any reference to Tertiary formations along
the route until after the expedition had passed beyond San Francisco volcano. The Post Ter_
tiary or Quaternary deposites are of course excepted — frequent mention of them being made.

It would appear from the observations of Mr. Featherstonhaugh that Tertiary strata are
developed at Little Bock and in its vicinity. He cites the occurrence of fossils of the genera Os-
trea, Turritella, Calyptrea, and Cerithhtm, in a calcareous matrix on the south bank of the river.
The same deposite is said to occur a few miles further west, where it is so calcareous that it was
used to make lime.1 This is the only record I can find respecting Tertiary deposites at that
point. If Mr. Featherstonhaugh is correct in referring this deposite to the Tertiary, it is
doubtless the fact that extensive areas of the surface and portions of the bottoms of the extended
valleys or depressions in the carboniferous strata in that region are covered by strata of this
formation.

The strata of brecciated sandstone and calcareous conglomerate found outcropping near Camps
16, 17, 18, and 19, are very probably Tertiary, but no fossils were found.

There is much reason to believe that the cretaceous strata of the Llano are surmounted by
Tertiary deposites over a part of the plain. This is indicated by the second line of bluffs, or
second step, seen from the valley of the Canadian. Dr. Shumard also, who examined the Llano
at the sources of the Eed river, found a layer of rounded gravel and pebbles upon the top, which
he denominates drift, and which at some places was found to be about 100 feet thick. Frag-
ments of agate and carnelian, and of silicified wood, appear to abound in this deposite. The
same pebbly bed appears to be found west of the Sierra Madre on the table-lands of Zuiii and its
vicinity. These are, in all probability, Tertiary or Post Tertiary deposites ; but as they are not
characterized by fossils, and as their extent is not known, I have not indicated them on the map.

In ascending Cactus Pass, strata of sand and a coarse limestone were found outcropping in
connexion with dykes of trap and porphyry. The strata inclined strongly towards the west,
the trend being north and south. These are said to be Tertiary by Mr. Marcou. (Notes, Janu-
ary 31.) Tertiary deposites, according to the notes, were again met along the valley of Hawil-
hamook, near Camp 121. At that place intrusions of trap rock have raised up strata of sand-
stone and conglomerate of a red color. They were very friable, and have a reddish-yellow color,
differing from the color of the older red sandstone. (Notes, February 13.) Similar strata were
observed betwee'h Camps 122 and 123, and again between Camps 125 and 126. This formation
appears to have extended along the valley of the stream down to the Colorado. It was again
found along the Colorado, and between Camps 127 and 128 the strata were uplifted at an augle
of 20°. The mountains which border the river beyond Camp 128 are composed of Tertiary red
sandstones and conglomerates, metamorphosed and traversed by basaltic trap and amygdaloid.
(Notes, February 22.) This red sandstone and conglomerate was afterwards found associated
with white and chalky clay.

Beyond the Colorado, towards the Mojave river, metamorphic conglomerate was found in
ascending the mountains. (Notes, March 2d and 3d.) A whitish limestone, brecciated and in
horizontal strata, was found on the 4th, between Camps 137 and 138. This was at an elevation
of about 4,500 feet.

Horizontal strata of white and bluish clay and grey sandstone, very friable, are found along
the Mojave river in high banks near the point where the Mormon road leaves the stream to
ascend to the Cajon Pass. Similar strata, but more deeply eroded, are found lower down the
stream. They are doubtless Tertiary.

1 Featherstonhaugh's Report, p. 60.

TERTIARY AND POST TERTIARY.

83

Sandstone of the Cajon Pass. — A description of the sandstone which outcrops at angles of 20
to 45 degrees in the upper portions of this pass, has already heen given. It is probably of Ter-
tiary age. The Tertiary strata forming the slope from the mountains to the coast, have also
been described. (See Chapter V.) The strata supposed to be Tertiary are thus seen to be prin-
cipally developed over the western portion of the line — the portion west of the last exposure of
the carboniferous limestone. This observation is made under the supposition that Tertiary
strata are not found to surmount the Llano or the other table-lands on either side of the mount-
ains. We have also seen that little knowledge of the lithological characters of the formation,
its thickness and extent, has been obtained. The strata along the Colorado and its principal
tributary, the Hawilhamook, appear to be very similar or constant in their character, being
chiefly formed of red sandstone and conglomerate. It is very probable that these beds are the
equivalents of the deposites I examined on the eastern side of the mountains at the head of the
California gulf, where a thick bed containing Ostrea, Anomia and Pectens was found.

POST TERTIARY.

The formations included under this head are those of recent origin, the alluvial deposites of
the rivers and the banks of detritus or wash which surround the mountains and fill the valleys
of the Great Basin. These deposites are so local in their character, and differ so greatly accord-
ing to their locality, that they cannot be included in one general description. It is not, there-
fore, necessary to repeat the observations already made upon the alluvium of the Mississippi,
nor many other notices of the recent deposites along the route.

Mr. Marcou, in his notes, makes frequent mention of the alluvial and "diluvial" deposites
he met in each day's travel. These superficial accumulations appear, in some cases, to be
abundant, and merit attention. A description of the deposites between Delaware mountain
and the Antelope hills will be found in Chapter II ; but I present here notices of the most
interesting deposites recorded between Antelope hills and the Sandia and Albuquerque mount-
ains. Immediately after passing the Antelope hills, Mr. Marcou found several rolled masses of
volcanic scoria of the size of the fist and head. Sand, with some alluvial pebbles, was found
beyond, as far as Camp 36. This same deposite appears to have extended beyond Camp 36, for
on the following day we find the presence of sand and alluvial pebbles of quartz noted. Be-
tween Camps 3*7 and 38 "diluvium, from the size of a hazel-nut to that of the fist, with some
masses as large as the head," was seen. Those masses were, however, of white sandstone and
limestone, which probably came from the strata in the vicinity. Between Camps 38 and 39 the
diluvium is said to have been abundant, the pebbles being as " large as a gourd." Again,
near Camp 40 the diluvium is said to have consisted of beds of sand and sandstone, containing
the pebbles of the diluvium of the " Kocky mountains." Two or three miles before reaching
Camp 41 a great number of hillocks of sandy diluvium were encountered. Between Camps 43
and 44 we find it noted that the diluvium of the Rocky mountains is abundant and thick on all
the plateaux. After reaching the bluffs of the Llano or their vicinity, the alluvium appears to
have been much less abundant, and its absence is several times noted. It was not found again
until the valley of the G-alinas was reached, where a " diluvium" of granite and trap rock was
abundant, and it also forms hills between the Calinas river and the Pecos.

At a point near Red river and nearly south from the Antelope hills, Dr. Shumard found large
quantities of " drift," composed principally of quartz and mica-schist ; on Red river, sandstone
strata were overlaid by " drift" forty feet thick. Again near the outcrop of the upraised sand-
stones, near Suydam creek, the surface was thickly covered with drift. From this point drift
is constantly noted along the trail westward towards the bluffs of the Llano. It will he ob-
served, by consulting Captain Marcy's map, that this region is directly south of and near the
valley of the Canadian. At one place the drift contained agate, chalcedony, and fossil-wood.
Dr. Shumard's observations on the Llano differ greatly from those of Mr. Marcou, made at a

84

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

point further west. Dr. Shumard, as has already been stated, found the summit of the Llano,
or the stratum immediately underneath the soil, to be composed of " drift." This is mentioned
several times wherever sections of the bluffs were made.1 The hills around the base of the Llano
appear to have been partly composed of or capped with drift, containing agates, chalcedony,
&c. On the 22d of June the occurrence in the drift of fossil-wood, agate, jasper, and a few
water-worn fossil-shells of the genus Ostrea, is recorded. Similar pebbles were found on the
25 th.2

These deposites evidently are connected with those noted by Mr. Marcou, who, it will be
remembered, noted the same minerals and fossil-shells near Camp 31, east of the Antelope
hills.

These descriptions of the drift and alluvium, as it is called, will exactly apply to the extensive
layers of pebbles and fossil-wood which are found to surmount the plains of the Colorado and
Sonora deserts. There almost endless varieties of agates, jaspers, carnelians, and porphyries
may be picked up, and these beautiful pebbles are mingled with no less beautiful specimens of
silicified wood, with its internal structure perfectly preserved. This pebbly layer is derived from
a thick bed of conglomerate, which rests horizontally upon sandstones, believed to be of Tertiary
age. The same drift is found at another point, spread out over a thick bed of Tertiary fossils.
I am much inclined to regard this drift of the Llano and the adjoining region as similar in age
and in origin to that along the Colorado and Gila rivers. If, however, it be identical in these
respects, it does not show that the strata upon which it is spread are of the same or of Tertiary age.

Accumulations of pebbles, similar to these, were also found on the surface of the plateau west
of the Sierra Madre, and it was there mingled with a larger quantity of fossil-wood.

Alluvial deposites of the valley of the Rio Grande. — The characters of the valley of the Rio
Grande and the Puerco have already been presented at some length. All the descriptions unite
in asserting the sandy and generally sterile character of the soil, although it is much cultivated
and with considerable success. Sand-dunes appear to be common on the uncultivated parts of
the valley, and are noted by Major Emory and others. They show the sandy, arid nature of the
soil and the prevalence of high winds.

Alluvial or bottom-land of the Colorado. — Mr. Marcou describes the alluvium of the Colorado
as black and fine, being without pebbles. In color it therefore differs very greatly from the
silt which is transported by the stream ; which is a brick red, and is so abundant as to render
the water almost opaque. Its turbid and highly colored condition is retained even to its mouth ;
and below Fort Yuma it deposites thick layers of its light-colored red mud in all the shallow and
quiet bays along the shore. The bottom-land at this place also differs in color from the stream.
The earth has a bluish-grey or ash color when dry, and is quite dark when moistened, and is
very fertile. With regard to the fertility and agricultural availability of the bottom-land along
the route, the best evidence is found in the large crops of maize and wheat, and vegetables, which
are raised by the Indians. It will be seen by reference to Capt. Whipple's report that they were
willing to dispose of large quantities of grain for a few trifles and blankets. If Indians, with
their rude implements and indolent habits, can provide themselves with such a superabundance
of food, what may not be expected to result from enlightened agriculture?

According to Capt. Whipple, these bottom-lands are very extensive in some places, as in the
valley of the Mojaves, having a breadth of several miles. The lands are undoubtedly favorable
to the growth of tobacco, cotton, and many other productions of the South.

Detritus or wash of the Great Basin, and other localities. — In the region of the Great Basin,
where there is an endless number of isolated mountains and ridges, entirely bare of vegetation,
and thus subject to rapid disintegration by the action of snow and water, there is a very
great accumulation of loose gravelly materials around all the elevations. These materials being
chiefly derived from the rocks they surround, partake of their character and composition. The

1 See Marcy's Red River Report, pp. 190, 191.
- Ibid.

3 See the writer's Roport on the Geology of the route explored ia California by Lieutenant Williamson. (Iuedited.)

ALLUVIAL FORMATIONS — VOLCANIC.

85

rocks being principally granite, containing much, feldspar, the surface around is generally
strewed with little angular fragments of this mineral ; and thus, although it may have the
appearance of a mere surface of gravel, it has all the elements of a fertile soil, except the vege-
table mould, which would soon accumulate if the climate or supply of moisture favored the growth
of vegetation. We have already seen that in the formation of the slopes the coarser and heavier
materials are not transported far down, but remain on the upper portions near the sides of the
mountains, while the finest materials are carried far down. In some cases, where the supply
of water is great, and forms ponds or lakes in the valleys, the finest parts of the soil, held in
suspension by the water, are deposited there, so that a horizontal layer of clay is left when the
water evaporates. In this way the Play as are formed. These deposites contain too much clay,
and become too firmly impacted, to be of any service for cultivation ; moreover, the climatic con-
ditions are not favorable. The slopes, however, in favorable situations, have all the qualities
of soil necessary for abundant crops of the cereals, and would become exceedingly verdant and
luxuriant with vegetation if water could be artificially supplied.

Valley of the Mojave. — There is much fertile land on the banks of this stream, which sustains
a vigorous growth of grass and willows. The river-bed is very sandy, and large areas of the
bottom-land, which are subject to overflow, are covered with the sand. The fertile and desirable
land forms but a thread-like strip along the river, when we compare it with the broad and
semi-desert surface of the Great Basin which surrounds it.

Valleys of San Bernardino and Los Angeles. — The valley of San Bernardino lies at the south-
ern or western base of the Bernardino sierra, and is entered by the road from the Cajon Pass.
It is not possible, within the limits of this brief notice, to do justice to its extreme fertility and
the salubrity of the climate. The bottom-land, along the streams, is well adapted to all kinds
of crops, and the higher portions, or the surface of the main slope from the mountains, could
undoubtedly be successfully cultivated, if it was supplied with water by irrigation. The
Mormons, now occupying this valley, are covering it with neat dwellings and well-tilled fields,
and the evidences of substantial prosperity abound. The generally fertile character of all the
valleys, and of the whole slope from the mountains to the Pacific, is well known, and the pro-
ductions are a sufficient evidence of the depth and richness of the soil and the favorable climate.
The soil of the slope may be regarded as formed of the wash from the mountains, together with
the debris of Tertiary strata and the remnants of ancient beach accumulations, formed previous
to the comparatively recent elevation of that coast. The river-bottoms are of much finer mate-
rials, and often contain more sand than is desirable for cultivation.

VOLCANIC.

Volcanoes, or the evidences of their former activity, appear to have been almost constantly in
view from the valley of the Bio Grande to the Mojave river, in California. Indeed, if we
glance at the map, the line of the survey appears characterized by volcanoes and their outpour,
ings. This, however, is probably more apparent than real, as an exploration further south
would probably reveal a similar number of volcanic vents. The principal cones or volcanoes,
as they succeed from east to west, may be enumerated as follows :

Ndnie. Position.

Cerritos - - - - south of Santa Fe\

San Mate"o west of Santa Fe\

?...... - - south and west of Camino del Obisjx).

San Francisco -

Bill Williams'

? High peak, N.W. of Bill Williams' mountain.

Cygnus mountain - west of Aztec Pass.

^ Artillery peak Cerbat mountains.

Cones - - - cast of Soda lake.

fcimall crater... ■ near the Mojave.

86

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

In addition to these there are many streams of basaltic lava covering broad areas, and which
cannot be directly traced to either of the above enumerated sources. Among them the vertical
walls of lava near the mouth of the Hawilhamook, on the Colorado and between the Colorado
and the Mojave, may be mentioned. The most important of these localities are the mountains
called San Mateo, San Francisco, Bill Williams', and Cygnus mountain. Observations on these
volcanoes have already been made in the chapters devoted to the description of the geology of
the route, and some general remarks only need to be added.

The outpourings of lava from San Mateo and San Francisco appear to have proceeded from a
number of side cones or vents much below the principal crater. At San Mateo there is a cone or
crater several miles west and a little north, directly on the east border of the branch of the San
Jose river, which heads in Campbell's Pass. This crater, although much lower than San Ma-
teo, and hardly visible a few miles distant, furnished a stream of lava which coursed down the
valley of the river until it mingled with the streams from the great cone, and perhaps extended
beyond them to Covero and Laguna. This crater may perhaps be regarded as entirely distinct
from San Mateo, as it is about twenty miles distant from the peak. The eastern flank of San
Francisco volcano appears to be sprinkled with cones of various sizes, from which lava has
poured out and flowed down the slope to the east. These cones were seen all along the route
from a short distance west of the Colorado Chiquito to the base of the principal peak. Beyond
the peak no cones appear to have been seen — they are confined to the eastern and southern
slope of the mountain. Mr. Marcou mentions seeing some basaltic buttes on the east bank of
the river. These are in the line of prolongation from the principal crater eastward through the
lesser vents. Secondary cones do not appear to have been found around Bill William^' or
Cygnus mountain.

The probable volcanic character of the high conical mountain seen in the southeast, after
crossing the Sierra Madre, was indicated by a lava stream which had flowed from that direction
and which extended across the line of survey. Mr. Marcou estimated its elevation to be ten
thousand feet. The high peak called Lantern or Abajo mountain, seen far to the northwest of
San Francisco and Bill Williams' mountain, is supposed to be volcanic from its isolation and
conical shape. It is probably beyond the great Colorado, and in the broad plains southwest ot
the lower extremity of the Wasatch range.

The source of the broad areas of lava cut through by the Colorado and Hawilhamook, near the
mouth of the latter, is not known; but it is probably in the mountains further south. The
horizontal layers of lava near Camp 137 are on the same line of trend, although far northward,
and their source is probably north of the route.

The cones seen at the north of the line when near the Soda lake, and a small crater found by
Lieutenant Williamscn west of the Mojave, show that the volcanic forces have acted in the
Great Basin, although not with the power and effect which is exhibited east of the Colorado.
No volcanoes or lava are found in the Bernardino Sierra, and we may thus consider the region
of volcanoes to commence at the west, in the Pai-Ute range, between the Mojave and the Colo-
rado. It is, however, important to observe, that volcanic phenomena are abundantly presented
in the Sierra Nevada, north of the parallel of 36° — broad fields of basaltic lava being found at
the western base of these mountains, along the head-waters of the San Joaquin, Merced, Stan-
islaus, and Mokelumne.1

On the east, it is worthy of note that the broad Atlantic slope appears to be without any vol-
canoes, the first'volcanic cones found being on the western side of the Santa Fe mountains. A
great contrast is thus presented between tbe plains on the east and those on the west of the moun-
tains, which are probably of the same age, and which we would naturally expect to be similarly
covered by volcanoes. The region of greatest volcanic activity in former times thus appears to
have been between the mountains along the Kio Grande and those on the Colorado. The n^aks

1 See the author's Report on the Geology of the route in California surveyed, in 1853, by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson.

VOLCANOES.

87

seen both south and north of the line, and the volcano found as far south as the great bend of
the Hawilhamook, together with the volcanoes and craters found on other lines of survey, both
south and north, show that the volcanic vents are not distributed along an east and west line,
but that they are probably found in long lines coincident with the trends of the principal chains
of mountains.

Age of the volcanoes. — It is probable that all these volcanoes are more recent than the Ter-
tiary. We are aware that the cones and the lava of San Mateo and San Francisco overspread
the strata of the plains, which are supposed to be synchronous in their origin with those on the
east of the Anahuachian chain. That these are overspread with Tertiary deposites is extremely
probable, although we are without any evidence presented by fossils. We have, however, seen
that in many places the lava-streams have coursed down the valleys of the streams — the very
rivers having been displaced by the molten flood. This shows the comparatively modern activity
of some of these vents, and yet we are without any record or tradition of their action.

I regret that it has not been possible to give the specimens of lava a full chemical examination,
or to compare them with specimens from Europe. Some important and interesting observations
upon them will be found in the letter from Baron Von Humboldt, addressed to Captain Whip-
ple, and published in Part I of his Eeport.

CHAPTER VIII.

COAL, BUILDING-STONES, GYPSUM, METALS, AND OEES.

Coal most abundant on the eastern part or the line. — Coal along the Arkansas and Canadian rivers. — In petit jean and

SUGAR-LOAF MOUNTAINS. ALBUQUERQUE OR SANDIA MOUNTAINS. At O.TO PESCADO. CANON DE CHACO. AT BELLINGHAM BAY.

Vancouver's island. — Cowlitz coal. — Bitumen of los angeles. — Building-stone. — Granite and gneiss. — Limestone and

sandstone. tlieir distribution over the route. gypsum, its applications in the arts. used for window-lights.—

Gold. — Old and new placers. — Resemblance of the deposites to those of California. • — "Dry diggings." — New Mexican

methods of mining and washing. yleld of the placers. absence of water. use of snow-water. — quality of the

gold. — Rights in the placers. — Mining laws. — Quartz veins. — Mines. — Gold in the great basin and Bernardino
sierra. — armagosa mine. san francisquito placer. — copper, lead, and silver. — iron. salt.

COAL.

The principal and almost the only coal deposites along the route are found on the eastern
portion of the line, bordering the valley of the Arkansas and Canadian rivers. The other
localities either do not offer the coal in beds of sufficient thickness to be profitably worked, or
the quality is greatly inferior.

Coal along the Arkansas and Canadian. — Beds of coal are numerous along the Arkansas
and its tributaries, but there is not yet any very definite and specific information concerning
their thickness and extent, or the quality of the coal. Dr. Geo. C. Shumard states, that
numerous workable seams of coal have been discovered in Washington county, and that it
exists in almost inexhaustible quantities throughout the county of Sebastian, where " the seams
vary in thickness from a few inches to seven feet, and lie in such a manner that they can be
wrought easily."1

The first mention of the coal by Mr. Marcou, in his notes, was on his arrival at the Petit
Jean mountain, where, on the right bank, one or two ranges of high hills containing beds of
coal were found. Twelve miles south of Fort Smith, Mr. Marcou notes a bed of bituminous
coal twelve feet thick, containing traces of oxide of iron. Other beds, from two to twelve feet
thick, are found in the adjoining counties further south. Sugar-loaf mountain, which is thirty
miles south of Fort Smith, contains coal at its base and in the middle. (See notes, June 19.)
At the plantation of Mr. Ring, Camp 1 to 2, a well had been dug forty feet deep, and a bed
of coal three feet thick passed through. Coal-beds are noted near Camp 7, and Lieutenant
Whipple states that a blacksmith living at that place uses the coal of the vicinity in his forge.

These facts, and the extent and character of the carboniferous strata along the Canadian,
show us that the eastern part of the route, from Little Rock to Delaware mountain, traverses
an extensive coal region. It may safely be assumed, that coal can be conveniently obtained at
almost any point along that section of the line.

Albuquerque Mountains. — The next point at which coal, or its indications, was found is in tbe
Sandia or Albuquerque mountains. Here blackish shales were found without coal, but it was
reported that coal could be obtained at Manzana, several miles north. It is somewhat doubtful
whether this coal, if obtained there, is of the same age as the bituminous shales of the Sandia
mountain ; it may be more modern. The deposites of coal at the Raton Pass are at the north

1 Shumard, in Marcy's Red River Report, p. 180.

COAL NEAR ZCNI — COAL FROM PUGET'S SOUND.

89

of the line, and on the eastern flank of the Santa Fe mountains, being in the line with the uplift
of the Sandia range ; from this circumstance they would naturally be regarded as of carbonifer-
ous age, and yet we find by the evidence of fossil plants that the coal is much more modern.
This fact was established by the fossils brought in by Lieutenant J. W. Abert, which were
submitted to Professor J. W. Bailey.1 Very little is yet known respecting the extent and
value of this deposite of coal.

Ojo Pescado. — The deposite of coal at Ojo Pescado is about forty miles west of the pass in the
Sierra Madre, and near the ruined Pueblo of Zuiii. It occurs, according to the description of
Mr. Marcou, in layers from six inches to one foot in thickness, intercalated with bituminous
shales. It is overlaid by thick beds of sandstone, and the whole is nearly horizontal, the upper
strata dipping westward at an angle of about ten degrees. The only specimen of coal in the
collection, ISTo. 98 of the catalogue, is from this locality. A description of this sample is given
in detail in Chapter X.

It very much resembles the Tertiary brown coals, or lignites, found on the western coasts, but
is not so compact or of a quality at all comparable to the best coal of Puget's sound. The streak
or powder is dark brown, and on the flat cleavage surfaces some impressions of vegetation maybe
seen. The coal gives off a strong odor of bitumen when it is heated, and it burns with a white
flame and little smoke until the flame ceases, when the smoke is white and like that from wood.
The quantity of ash which it leaves, together with the large quantity of impurities contained
in the mass, lead me to conclude that the coal is of little or no value for furnaces. The thinness
of the beds is such, also, that it cannot be profitably obtained. It is not impossible, however,
that thicker beds occur, and that the specimen does not exhibit the best part of the deposite.
The deposites of coal along the Puerco, and particularly at Las Lunas, have been described. At
the latter place it is used by the blacksmith. Coal also occurs at Ciboleta, and Lieutenant
Simpson mentions the occurrence of bituminous coal near the parallel of 36°, in or near the
Canon de Chaco, almost due north of Sierra de San Mateo, or Mount Taylor. It appears in
the side of a table-mound interstratified horizontally between sandstone strata. Gypsum, inter-
calated with argillaceous shales, was found overlying it.2

It is very probable that all these deposites of coal are of one era, and yet the indications pre-
sented by the position and lithological association of the coal at Ojo Pescado are such as favor
the belief in its carboniferous age. The quality of the coal at all of these localities is probably
inferior, and its quantity is not very great.

From the thin bed of coal at Ojo Pescado westward to the end of the line at San Pedro,
there does not appear to have been any indication of coal. It is not found in connexion with
the carboniferous strata, and has either been denuded and washed away, or it was never formed
over those regions. This is probably the fact, for the rocks themselves show a decreasing thick-
ness towards the west, and the shales do not appear. There is little reason to expect to find
valuable deposites of coal, near the line, west of Delaware mountain.

Coal of Puget's sound, Bellingham bay. — The accessibility of the vast deposites of coal along
the shores of Puget's sound to San Pedro, renders them a proper subject for consideration in this
place. It is most probable that the Pacific coast will be largely supplied with this coal at a
price which will lead to its use in preference to that from the Atlantic States, which, by reason
of distance, must ever continue to bear a high price on the Pacific. Cargoes of the coal have
already been mined and sent to San Francisco, where it is used with great satisfaction by
families and for burning in grates. It very much resembles the ordinary bituminous coal of
the West, being in large brilliant black masses, which break up readily, with curved surfaces,
but generally cleaving into tabular blocks in the direction of the layers. It burns freely, and
leaves a fine white ash, which is probably more abundant than in the coal of carboniferous age?
The coal was once tried on the United States Coast Survey steamer, the Active, during a trip

1 Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 547, and two platea.
"' Simpson's Report, p. 73.

12 t

90

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

to Puget's sound. It burned with much flame — so much that the flames often poured out of the
top of the chimney for ten or twenty feet. This shows how highly the coal is charged with
bitumen and volatile ingredients, and indicates its value for making gas. It was thought that
the coal produced a large quantity of slag and cinder, and the fires required raking every
twenty minutes. This is a general complaint from those Avho use the coal in furnaces with a
strong draught, and it is doubtless true that the amount of ash is large, and that it is readily
fused together. A peculiar form of furnace may obviate the difficulties which arise from this
peculiarity of the coal. This is important, as in other respects the coal is apparently equal to
any. I have already given all the facts which could be obtained regarding the geological
association and occurrence of this coal in my Preliminary Geological Report.1 It is in all
probability of Tertiary age, and I am inclined to regard the strata as belonging to the same
series as the sandstone and shales of San Francisco.

Vancouver s Island coal. — The coal of Vancouver's island is probably similar to that from
Bellingham bay, and was also tested on board of the steamer Active. The locality is about
eight or twelve hours' run by steamer from Bellingham bay, at the port called Nanaimo. I saw
this coal in use on the steamer, and found that it produced a large quantity of very fluid slag,
which ran down in streams from the grate-bars.

Cowlitz coal. — Another large deposite of coal has been known for several years in California,
and is now being explored by a company of gentlemen in San Francisco. It is found near the
coast, on the navigable waters of the Cowlitz river, and is reported to be equal to the Bellingham
bay coal. It is much nearer San Francisco and San Pedro, and has that advantage over the
Puget sound mines. A specimen of this coal was brought home by the Exploring Expedition,
and was analyzed at the Yale College laboratory by Professor Benjamin Silliman, jr., with the
following result :

Carbon - 45.56

Volatile ingredients 52.08

Ashes - 2.36

It burned with much smoke.12

Bitumen, or asphalt, of Los Angeles. — The bitumen of the vicinity of Los Angeles will
doubtless at some future day become extensively used for the manufacture of gas, and for various
purposes in the arts. In the moderate climate of the Pacific coast it cannot but become an im-
portant article for the construction of pavements, cisterns, &c. It is already used for forming
roofs, being spread out in quantities on nearly flat surfaces, and softening by the heat of the sun
so as to make a water-tight covering.

BUILDING-STONE.

Granite, or gneiss, suitable for ordinary railroad constructions, can be obtained in the Ber-
nardino Sierra, along the Mojave and the Colorado, along the valley of the Hawilhamook, or
Bill Williams' fork, and in Cactus Pass. Granite also forms, according to the descriptions,
a comparatively isolated outcrop at the southern base of the San Francisco volcano. From the
last-mentioned point, eastward to the Sierra Madre, it cannot be obtained except by transporta-
tion. It can be procured in the Sierra Madre, and again at the Sandia and Santa Fe mount-
ains. East of the Sandia mountains it cannot be had along the line, if we except the Witchita
mountains, which rise several miles south, but which could be resorted to for stone if required.

Limestone and sandstone. — Portions of the route between the granitic outcrops are supplied
with building materials in the sedimentary rocks of carboniferous or later age. Thus, between
Cactus Pass and the granite at San Francisco volcano, there are numerous exposures of lime-

1 Preliminary Geological Report, accompanying the report of Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, U. S. Topographical Engi-
neers. H. Doc' 129, p. 72.

2 Report on the Geology of the Exploring Expedition, by James D. Dana, p. 658.

BUILDING STONE — GRANITE — LIMESTONE — GYPSUM.

91

stone favorably situated for furnishing blocks suitable for purposes of construction. The broad
region between San Francisco mountain and the Sierra Madre, although far from granite, is
supplied with sandstone, and the weslern end with magnesian limestone, in layers, which may
be found thick enough for building purposes. The sandstones and marls of the gypsum forma-
tion are not suitable for building, but the grey or yellow sandstone in the vicinity of Zuiii will
probably be found suitable for abutments and bridges. Carboniferous limestone could probably
be obtained in the Sierra Madre. The limestone found in such thick beds in Canon Diablo
would also become available for building, and we may conclude that it is not only an excellent
material, but easily worked.

From Fort Smith to Albuquerque, it is probable that the carboniferous limestone, especially
at the extremes, would be the best and most accessible building- stone. The sandstone, if con-
veniently located, would also be valuable. The sandstone of the cretaceous and gypseous strata
is probably too friable to be made use of over this part of the route, although there are doubtless
many places where firm blocks can be quarried from the table-hills or borders of the Llano.

The valley of the Rio Grande can be supplied with stone from the limestone or granite of the
Sandia range, and it is probable that the sandstone along the ravines and valleys west of the
Puerco is sufficiently firm and enduring for use.

There is an abundance of building material along the western part of the route in the numer-
ous granitic ranges, the only parts of the whole line that are not well supplied being the two
great table-lands on the east and west of the Eio Grande. These table-lands are, however,
bordered on each side by outcrops of carboniferous strata, limestone and sandstone, which can be
transported each way towards the centre of the plateaux if required.

GYPSUM.

This mineral occurs abundantly along a great part of the route. ' It is found in thin trans-
parent plates, in large opaque masses, or with a fine grain and translucency like alabaster, and
in red masses with a plumose structure. It forms, in many places, extensive sheets or thin
seams in the rocks, and at others thick imbedded masses, constituting a very considerable por-
tion of the strata. Specimens of the several varieties mentioned above are found in the collec-
tion, and are registered in the catalogue from Nos. 70 to 82, inclusive. Descriptions will also
be found of the most interesting masses in Chapter X ; and the principal deposites, with their
association and mineral characters, have already been described in the preceding chapters. A
few observations only upon the uses of the mineral in the arts will be added here.

I have already presented observations at length upon gypsum, its uses, and its origin, in the
report on the geology of the 32d parallel, and the following remarks are in part extracted from
that report :

The applications of gypsum in the arts, both in its raw state and prepared, or ground into
plaster, are multiplied and various. The uses of alabaster are well known. Large quantities
are worked into ornamental objects — vases, statuettes, &c. — in the establishments of France
and other places in Europe. The fibrous variety, or satin spar, is sometimes used for making
ornaments and beads, called Roman pearls. But by far the most important applications of
gypsum in the arts are those of plaster of Paris. In this state it is used for moulds, casts,
statues, as a cement, for plastering walls, and for ornaments on ceilings. The crude, unburnt
gypsum, when powdered, is largely used in agriculture as a fertilizer. Enormous quantities of
this substance are thus annually consumed in the United States. It is brought from the quarries
of Nova Scotia, and finds its way, by rivers, canals, and railroads, to nearly all parts of (he
country. It is even taken in quantities from the seaboard, by railway, far into the interior, to the
broad fields of northern Virginia, situated on the New Red sandstone. Some idea of the extent
to which this substance is used in agriculture may be obtained from a knowledge of tho amount
taken from the quarries of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and exported to the United States,

92

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

in 1851. This, according to Mr. Andrews, was 40,592 tons, and valued at $28,145. And in
the year 1850, the quantity quarried reached the enormous amount of 79,*795 tons. According
to Dawson, the quantity quarried in Hants and Colchester districts, in 1851, was 78, 903 tons,
having a value of £10,000 at the ports of shipment ; the greater part of which is exported to
the United States for agricultural purposes.

It is thus seen that there is an immense and inexhaustible supply of this valuable mineral in
convenient proximity to all parts of the Atlantic coast of the United States. It is readily
quarried at little cost, and can be loaded directly into vessels without land transportation. This
is sufficient to show that the deposites along the route cannot become valuable as a source of
gypsum for export. The expense of quarrying in horizontal beds is greater than in vertical
ones, where they are exposed in bluffs ; and the distance of the deposites from seaports will
confine the use of the gypsum to its immediate vicinity.

It is an interesting fact that selenite was well known to the ancients, who, according to
Pliny, made bee-hives out of it, in order to see the bees at work within. According to Dr.
Hitchcock, it was used by the wealthy in palaces for windows, under the name of Phengites,
and u has the curious property of enabling a person within the house to see all that passes
abroad, while those abroad cannot see what passes within. Hence Nero employed it in his
palace."

From information which I have received from Mr. Campbell, it appears that the transparent
plates — the selenite — is found in abundance between the Sierra Madre and the Rio Grande, and
it is extensively collected and used for window-lights. It is in use at Covero, and is carried to
Zuni for the same purpose. From this fact, and the description given by Gregg, I judge that
the selenite occurs in large and beautifully clear masses. According to Gregg, it is known by
the natives under the name of Yeso ; and he states that it is found in foliated blocks composed
of laminae, which are easily separated with a knife into sheets from the thickness of paper to
that of window-glass, and almost as transparent as the latter. It is used to a great extent in
the ranchos and villages for window-lights; for which, indeed, it is a tolerable substitute."1
According to Wislizenus, extensive layers of this selenite exist in the mountains near Algo-
dones, on the Rio del Norte, and in the neighborhood of the Salinas. The mineral appears also
to be used as a substitute for lime in whitewashing. It is first calcined, and then mixed with
water, and applied to the walls of dwellings and churches.2

GOLD.

The principal locality at which gold in any quantity is known to occur on or near the route
surveyed is near Santa Fe, in and around the Gold mountains. In that region there are two
localities where the gold is most abundant. These are known as Old Placer and New Placer.
The former has been known and worked since 1828. It is about twenty-seven miles south of
Santa Fe, and appears to be on the northern and western slopes of the Gold mountains, and to
extend for several miles southward.3 Dr. Wislizenus, who visited the placers in 1846, makes
the following observations on them, and the extent of the gold-bearing region :

(t Gold seems to be found to a large extent in all the mountains near Santa Fe ; south of it,
in a distance of about one hundred miles, as far as Gran Quivrira ; and north, for about one
hundred and twenty miles, up to the river Sangre de Cristo. Throughout this whole region
gold-dust has been abundantly found by the poorer classes of Mexicans, who occupy themselves

1 Commerce of the Prairies, Vol. i, p. 177.

8 J. W. Abert, U. S. Topographical Engineers. Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 509.

8 The following account of the discovery of the gold is given hy Gregg, (Commerce of the Prairies, Vol. i, p. 167.) In
1823 a Smoreho who was in the habit of herding his mules in that vicinity, being one day in pursuit of some that had
strayed into the mountains, happened to pick up a stone which he soon identified as being of the same class that was to be
ound in the gold regions of Sonora. Upon a little further examination he detected sundry particles of gold, which did
not fail to occasion some degree of excitement in the country. The mine appears to have been incorporated as El Real de
Dolores, but is now generally known under the name El Placer

GOLD— OLD PLACER — NEW PLACER.

93

with the "washing of this metal out of the mountain streams. At present the old and the new-
placer, near Santa Fe, have attracted most attention ; and not only gold-washes, hut some
gold mines, too, are worked there. They are, so far as my knowledge extends, the only gold
mines worked now in New Mexico."1

I do not find any other estimate of the extent of this auriferous region. The estimate given, .
it will he perceived, is not very definite, and the average breadth of the placers is not given.

It appears that the gold is found here, not only in drift of gravel and sand, but occurs also
in quartz veins which traverse the underlying rocks. At the time of the visit of Dr. Wislizenus,
and subsequently, when Lieutenant Abert passed over that region, both of these sources of gold
were worked. From the descriptions given, it seems that the placer-gold occurs there very
much as in California. It is found not only along the streams, but above them, as in the " dry-
diggings," resting on a bed-rock of granite, and covered by thick deposites of earth, stones,
&c, as in California. On Lieutenant Abert's arrival at the village of Old Placer he gives the
following description: "All along in the bottom of the stream, and in the heart of the town,
you see holes scooped out by the gold diggers." Again, at another point, he saw holes
dug in the sides of a hill of sand by the miners, and says that these mountains of sand were
based on masses of granite.2 One quarter of a mile beyond this place, and up the ravine, there
was another little town, and the road on both sides was "full of holes, and sometimes deep
wells that had been sunk in search of the precious metal." At a little mining town near
Tuerto the houses were found among " huge mounds of earth thrown out from the wells, so
that the village looked like a village of gigantic prairie dogs." " Nearly all the people there
were at their wells, and were drawing up loose bags of sand by means of windlasses. Around
little pools men, women, and children were grouped, intently poring over these bags of loose
sand, washing the earth in wooden platters or great horns."3

Dr. Wislizenus gives a similar description of a town in the new placer, which, I presume, is
the same which has just been referred to. -The Doctor states : " The gold in New Placer is,
also, got in two ways, by washing and mining. The principal place for gold washing is about
one mile northwest from the town, at the foot of a naked granitic mountain, the so-called
' Bonanza.'4 The whole place is excavated with pits, from whose depths they dig the same yellow
auriferous ground as in Old Placer, and they wash it also in the same way." The method of
obtaining the gold at the old placer, at the time of the visit of Dr. Wislizenus, was by washing in
the old-fashioned batea.5 "The poorer class of Mexicans are generally occupied with those
gold washers in the creek ; and they divide, for that purpose, the creek with the water among
themselves in lots, which often call forth as many claims and contests as the finest building-lots
in our cities." " As the gold is apparently carried here by the waters of the creek from higher
auriferous regions, the gain from these washes is different according to the season. The most
gold is found in and after the rainy season, and it diminishes with the falling of the water.
Occasionally they discover a larger piece of gold in the sand ; but generally the gold is so
divided that a whole day's work will amount, on an average, to not more than a quarter or half
a dollar. Every evening they sell their small gains to the shopkeepers and take provisions or
goods in exchange, or receive cash for it at the rate of sixteen dollars per ounce." " This is the
most common, but the least profitable way of gold-washing. It may be practised on all the water-
courses in those mountains, provided that there is sufficient water to wash with." * * " The
second place where I saw the process of gold washing was on a high piece of ground not far
from a creek. They had opened here a great many pits to the depth of from fifty to sixty

1 Memoir of a Tour to Northern New Mexico : Washington, 1848 ; p. 24.

2 J. W. Abert's Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 449.

3 J. W. Abert. Examination of New Mexico, p. 451.
* Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, p. 31.

6 Batea: a wide and shallow wooden bowl, into which the aurifereous earth is placed, with water, and shaken until the
coarse gravel and earth are removed, leaving the gold in the centre mixed with the heavy Bond.

94

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

feet, and raised the ground, a sandy earth mixed with iron ochre, to the surface, where it was
washed for gold in the same way, in hateas."

From the preceding extracts and descriptions, the experienced placer-miner of California will
at once conclude that hoth kinds of gold deposites — the river and the hill or dry-diggings —
are found in that region. The rudeness and inadequacy of the means for washing this aurifer-
ous earth are also very apparent, and there can he little or no doubt that the new methods of
washing placer deposites in California would, if applied in New Mexico, develop great riches
even in those parts of the placers already washed in such an imperfect manner. The introduc-
tion of water hy canals and aqueducts, and the adoption of the " hydraulic method" of washing,
would douhtless reveal ten ounces of gold where one only could he obtained before, and with no
more labor and less time.

According to Gregg, the quantity of gold taken from these placers and mines, between the
years 1832 and 1835, could not have amounted to less than from sixty thousand to eighty thou-
sand dollars per annum. Since that time, however, there has been a considerable falling off,
the yield for some seasons being only thirty thousand or forty thousand dollars. Mr. Gregg,
however, estimated the aggregate yield, since the first discovery, at more than half a million of
dollars.1 This estimate was made in 1844, and the mining has not been vigorously prosecuted
since that time. Mr. Gregg also observes that " only a very small portion of the gold region
has as yet been dug, and experience shows that the dust is about as likely to be found in one
part of it as another."

The principal difficulty in working these placers has been the absence of sufficient water. The
miners do not appear to have constructed a single ditch or canal to the dry-diggings, but rely
upon the winter snow for their supply. They were in the habit of collecting the snow in a
vat, and then melting it with heated stones. Of course, with such a limited supply of water
but little gold could be obtained, and it did not even permit of the use of anything but hand
implements, such as the pan or batea for washing.

It appears that the gold from the new placer was generally considered inferior to that from
the old. In order to determine this, Dr. Wislizenus took some of the wash-gold and subjected
it to analysis, and gives the following result :

Native gold 92.5

Silver 3.5

Iron and silex 4.

100.0

This exhibits but a small portion of silver, and it is probable that it was not all separated
from the gold, or possibly by "native gold" the natural alloy is meant. It is probable that
the difference between the gold of the two placers is very slight, if indeed there be any. Gregg,
in his work, states £C that the gold is of very fine quality, and that it produced at the United States
mint an average of $19 70 to the troy ounce after melting, or about $19 30 gross. It was at
first bought by the traders at the rate of $15 per ounce ; but in consequence of the competition
which was afterwards excited by the dealers, its price was raised for a short time above its
maximum at the mint, although it has since settled down at about $17 30 per ounce troy." 2

The gold region was for the most part, as in California, a kind of common property, although
the government often interfered, and secured a considerable share of the most profitable work-
ings. Dr. Wislizenus makes the following observations on the laws governing the mines at
the time of his visit : " Though the law in New Mexico was generally very liberal in granting
lots for mining, the instability of Mexican laws, and their arbitrary administration, have neu-
tralized and annihilated it." " When a New Mexican wants to work a gold or other mine not

1 Gregg's Commerce of the Prairies, Vol. i, p. 167.

2 Ibid., p. 168.

AURIFEROUS VEINS IN NEW MEXICO AND THE GREAT BASIN.

95

yet occupied by another, lie has to apply to the nearest alcalde, (justice of the peace of the
district,) who, according to the means and intended work of the individual, allows him a
smaller or larger tract of land, measured only in front, and reaching in depth as far as the
owner pleases to go. The price of the land is trifling ; hut if the owner does not work a certain
portion of the mine every year, it falls hack to the government." " Foreigners were, in conse-
quence of the eternal revolutions and new law codes in Mexico, sometimes excluded, sometimes
allowed to participate in this privilege." " By taking a Mexican as partner, they obviated the
law ; hut the most dangerous enemy was generally the avaricious Mexican government itself.
Often, when a foreigner had opened a profitable mine, these trustees of justice interfered for
some reason or other, and ejected the owner of his property. Several instances of such proceed-
ings are known. If we add to these causes the isolated situation of New Mexico, the thin
population, the want of good mechanics and real miners, the hostilities and depredations of the
Indians, it will not astonish us at all that, notwithstanding the great mineral resources of the
country, so few mines are worked at present."1

Quartz veins. — There is one specimen of "auriferous quartz" from the new placer in the
collection, (No. 93 of the catalogue.) On examination, as will be seen from the description in
another place, no gold could be detected by the eye, but the rock was cellular, and stained with
oxide of iron, proceeding from the decomposition of pyrites. I do not find any description of
the vein from which this was procured in Mr. Marcou's notes. He, however, mentions the
occurrence of copper ores, which are probably auriferous, but from the specimens in the collec-
tion I judge that they are from another vein. The direction of the new placer is also given in
the notes as east 30° north ; but whether this refers to the direction of the auriferous valley or
to the auriferous veins, is rather uncertain.

Quartz veins, bearing gold, are, however, mentioned and described by both Abert and Wis-
lizenus, and also by Gregg. The former visited a mine somewhere in the old placer, north of
Tuerto, and found the gold to be in a quartzose rock in particles visible to the naked eye.
This auriferous quartz was first broken into fragments, and then crushed by a rude mill or
arastra? Lieut. Abert also visited another mine further south. This he calls a copper mine,
and specimens of the ore were seen about the entrance. By pounding up some of this, however,
between two stones, and washing, particles of gold and silver were visible. The vein is said to
be in compact limestone. The sides of the passages of the mine were very irregular, and cut
into deep rounded fissures which were called pockets, and in which the richest ores were said to
occur. Lead ore and carbonate of lime were also seen at this place. At another mine — one
belonging to Mr. Campbell — the ore was composed of a very porous and vesicular rock, which
was easily crushed. The vein is reported to be nearly horizontal, and trends a little north of
west, (N. 80° W.,)3 and traverses compact limestone. The sides of the mine are full of pockets.
Mr. Campbell informed Lieutenant Abert that the ore near the surface was the richest, and that
the yield in gold diminished on going to a great depth, so that it hardly paid the expenses.
This is probably clue to improper treatment of the ore. That found near the surface being
partly decomposed, yields up the gold more readily and with less care than the undecomposed
portions from a greater depth. This conforms to the universal experience with veins of auriferous
pyrites, the decayed parts of the vein being the most profitable. With regard to the working
of these mines, Lieutenant Abert observes : " These mines are much more extensively worked
than those of Keal Viejo ; and, notwithstanding the scarcity of water, I have been told by
several persons that not less than two thousand people congregate here in the winter season

1 Wislizenus' Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, p. 32.

3 A peculiar mill for grinding ores, used principally in Spain, Soutli America, and Mexico, and formed by attaching I
slabs of rock by chains to the ends of long beams projecting from an upright spindle, which being mada to revolve, drags
the slabs around in a circular pit or trough lined with iron or stone, into which the ore is thrown, with water and quirk-
silver.

3 This direction is given in a corrected copy of Lieutenant Abert's Report. It is printed N. 50° VV.

96

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

when thejr can get water from the snows. These workers spend the greater part of their time
under ground, living on atole, a dilute kind of corn mush ; sometimes coming forth to the
light of day, when they wish to sell the product of their labor."1 Mr. Campbell stated tbat
he had obtained from his wells one piece worth seven hundred dollars, and at another time a
piece worth nine hundred. Whether these were taken from the veins or from the placer deposites
is uncertain, but I judge that they were taken from the latter.

Dr. Wislizenus mentions two gold mines which he says are similar, and I presume are the
same that were visited by Lieutenant Abert, and just described. Mr. Campbell's mine is said
to be one and a half mile southwest from the town, near the top of a high mountain to which
a rough and steep road leads, accessible only to pack-mules. "The gold is found, as in
old placer, in sienite and greenstone; it runs horizontally from east to west ; the gangue is
iron ochre and crystallized quartz. The vein was from eight to ten feet wide, and was explored
for a length of twenty feet, and to a depth of ten feet."2

As Lieutenant Abert describes the last vein he examined as nearly horizontal, and also states
its direction to be nearly east and west, I am led to conclude that the descriptions refer to the
same locality described by Dr. "Wislizenus. It is difficult to understand what is intended by
the statement that the vein has an east and west direction, when it is also said to be nearly
horizontal, and thus has, most probably, an extension in all directions. If it were not for the
occurrence of pyrites and carbonate of lime, the associates of gold in veins, and the direct state-
ments that the vein is in the solid rocks, we might conclude that the openings followed a layer
of auriferous drift on the bed-rock. Lieutenant Abert states that the rock is limestone, while
Dr. Wislizenus desciibes it as greenstone and sienite. It is therefore probable that all these
rocks are found together ; and we already know that the mines are near the junction of the
limestone with the granitic rocks.

' Cerbat and Aquarius Mountains. — It does not appear from the notes or collection, nor from
any published reports, that gold is found in these mountains, or in the region included between
the Colorado river and Hawilhamook, or Bill Williams' fork. The metamorphic character of
the rocks, however, and their wide extent, lead me to conclude that gold will in all probability
be found there in considerable quantities. The subject is worthy of the attention of explorers
when passing over that region.

Gold in the Great Basin and Bernardino Sierra. — After quitting the Gold mountains, the
precious metal was not found again along the route. It, however, occurs at a point near the
Mormon road, not many miles beyond the Soda lake, in the Great Basin. The locality is
known as the Armagosa mine, and it was noticed in my Preliminary Geological Report. It is
exceedingly interesting not only for the peculiar association of the gold, but as the only known
vein bearing this metal which has yet been discovered in the Great Basin. This vein was
opened upon and worked for a time by a company organized in California, and a considerable
quantity of rich ore was raised ; but the distance of the locality from settlements, and the difficulty
and expense attending the transportation of supplies, caused the enterprise to be abandoned.
The many specimens of the rock, charged with small plates and filaments of gold, that were
obtained at the mine, and which are to be seen in Los Angeles and other places in California,
testify to the richness and value of the locality ; and it is desirable that the vein should receive
more attention. The specimens which I have obtained from there show that carbonate of lime
forms a considerable part of the gangue ; the filaments of gold, some of them as large as a
common-sized knitting-needle, are seen to penetrate this mineral, and to be imbedded in it so
as to protrude on two sides of rhombohedrons, obtained by cleavage. The occurrence of this
gold in place in the rocks of the Basin, so far east of the great auriferous region of the Sierra
Nevada, has a significance of no small importance. It indicates the presence of veins throughout
that vast and as yet almost unexplored region. We may look not only for rich veins, but for

1 Abert. Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 452.
' Wislizenus' Memoir, p, 32.

SILVER, LEAD, COPPER, IRON, SALT.

97

extensive and rich placers, which only require ahundance of water and the facilities which would
he afforded by a railroad to become sources of national wealth. The exploration of the Armagosa
veins and of the surrounding country, not only for veins, but for placers, is exceedingly desirable.

Placers and veins of San Francisquito and the vicinity. — Gold has been obtained for several
years past in tbe lower portions of the mountains north and northwest of Los Angeles. It
occurs in veins and in placer deposites ; but the explorations have hitherto failed to develop
riches comparable in quantity to those of the placers of the Sierra Nevada. The talcose and
auriferous slates are found in extended ridges along the lower part of the Pass of San Francis-
quito, and it is probably from these that the gold is derived. Similar rocks occur, also, at the
base of the mountains where they are crossed by the Cajon Pass ; and it is probable that gold
can be obtained there by washing in the beds of the streams. Mr. Marcou states that he saw
rocks in the pass precisely similar to those found between Bough-and-Beady, G-rass Valley, and
Nevada City, which contain veins of auriferous quartz.1 To me the rocks of the lower portions
of the pass appeared to be chiefly metamorphic, while those bearing the quartz veins at Grass
Valley and vicinity were evidently in great part of erupted greenstone. The specimens which
Mr. Marcou notes as coming from the Cajon Pass were most probably brought through there
from the Armagosa mines in the Great Basin.

SILVER, LEAD, AND COPPER.

These metals, or their ores, do not appear to have been met with in any quantity along the
route. The only specimens in the collection are of copper ore from Placer mountain, and
are probably from the mine noticed under the head of " Gold." The ore is noticed in the
description of the collection (No. 92.) It is chiefly silicate and carbonate of copper dissem-
inated in a gangue of a beautiful light- colored garnet, which is both massive and crystalline,
fine crystals being found on the interior of small cavities. The copper ore mentioned by Lieut.
Abert is, according to his observations, associated with carbonate of lime. These specimens
are, therefore, most probably from another locality.

According to Wislizenus, copper occurs at many places in that region, and he cites the fol-
lowing as localities : Las Tejeras Jemez, Abiquiu, and Guadelupita de Mora. He, however,
knew of only one locality that was worked — that south of the placers,2

Vein in the Great Basin. — A vein of copper ore, with a width of several feet, occurs on the
northern side of the Bernardino Sierra, not far from the entrance to Williamson's Pass. It is
about seven and a half miles east of Johnson's river, so named on Lieutenant Williamson's
map. The rock which bounds the vein on each side is gneiss or mica-slate, trending nearly
N. 75° E., and the dip of the rocks and vein is nearly vertical. The outcrop, showing dark-
green stains of the carbonate of copper, varies from twenty to thirty feet in width. The vein-
stone is chiefly quartz. A large amount of oxide of iron filling the cavities shows the former
presence of a very considerable amount of sulphuret of iron, now entirely decomposed. 3 Cop-
per ore also occurs in the pass, (Williamson's Pass,) a few miles below the summit.

The occurrence of silver with the gold obtained by crushing and washing the copper ores
of the mine in or near the new placer is mentioned by Lieutenant Abert. It is possible that
brilliant white particles of mundic may have been mistaken for the metal ; but it would not be
strange to find the silver there, as we are informed of the presence of veins of lead ore, one of
its most common associates. I do not find any full account or description of this lead mine.
According to Lieutenant Abert, the vein is in the limestone, and he gives a figure of a Tere-
bratula, a fossil common in the carboniferous limestone which he obtained in the mine.

The carboniferous limestone appears to be peculiarly favorable to the occurrence of lead ores
and silver. Bich veins are found in the Organ mountains, about 200 miles south of tho route,

3 Resume, p. 48. 2 Wislizenus. Memoir of a Tour through Northern Mexico, p. 24.

3 A notice of this vein was given in the author's Preliminary Geological Report, p. 74, and will appear wiili farther
details in the final Report.

13 t

98

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

on the southern extension of the Santa Fe and Sandia mountains. Specimens of the ores
brought in by Captain Pope from his survey along the 32d parallel of latitude are very rich,
and consist of massive sulphuret of lead, galena, and large masses of carbonate of lead. The
former contains about forty-eight troy ounces of silver to the ton of ore.1 It is probable that
the mountains around Santa Fe and Albuquerque, and also the Sierra Madre on the west,
contain many valuable veins of argentiferous lead which have never been discovered. Wisli-
zenus states that several rich silver mines were worked in Spanish times at Avo, at Corrillos,
and in the Nambe mountains.2 Lieut. Abert, when at the village of Manzana, obtained speci-
mens of silver ores which were taken from mines in the adjoining mountains.3 The extensive
silver mines of Mexico are doubtless in the more highly metamorphosed limestone of the same
age with that at Santa Fe and along the flanks of the mountains bordering the Rio Grande.

In passing down the valley of the Hawilhamook, or Bill "Williams' fork, Mr. Marcou observed
several veins of argentiferous galena, (see notes,) and this led him to believe that silver was
abundant in those mountains.

IRON.

There are several specimens of iron ores in the collection, and it is an interesting fact that
they are all of the specular or hematite species, although they present very different appear-
ances. All of the specimens are described in the description of the collection. One is a
beautifully fibrous variety, and its size indicates that very large masses may be obtained at
the parent source. Nearly all the specimens appear to have been boulders or loose masses,
as Mr. Marcou does not give any description of veins or beds.

Magnetic iron ore occurs in considerable quantity in the pass next west of the Cajon,
(Williamson's Pass,) where I found large quantities in the bed of a stream coming in from
the east, mingled with the detritus from the surrounding mountains.

SALT.

The inhabitants of the valley of the Rio Grande have long been accustomed to resort to several
salt lakes, or Salinas, on the east side of the mountains, for their supply of salt. These lakes
are about fifty miles east by south from Albuquerque, and one hundred miles south of Santa
Fe. They are on the high table-lands which extend from the mountains to the Pecos, and
which are most probably formed by Tertiary strata in that region. The lakes are capable of
furnishing an almost unlimited quantity of good salt, and the whole adjoining country is sup-
plied from them. I find an interesting account of these lakes given by Gregg. " The largest
of these Salinas is five or six miles in circumference. The best time to collect the salt is during
the dry season, when the lakes contain but little water ; but even when flooded, salt may be
scooped up from the bottom, where it is deposited in immense beds, in many places of unknown
depth, and when dried resembles the common alum-salt. The best, however, which is of superior
quality, rises as a scum upon the water. A great many years ago, a firm causeway was thrown
up through the middle of the principal lake, upon which the carretas and mules are driven, and
loaded with salt still dripping with water. The Salinas are public property, and the people
resort to them several times a year, in caravans, for protection against the savages of the desert
in which they are situated. Although this salt costs nothing but the labor of carrying it away,
the dangers from the Indians, and the privations experienced in an expedition to the Salinas,
are such, that it is seldom sold in the capital for less than a dollar per bushel. On the same
great plain, still a hundred miles further south, there is another Salina, of the same character. 4

According to Mr. Marcou, the red marls or clay, near Camp No. 41, are saliferous, and.holes
were found filled with very brackish and magnesian water, which was insupportable to the taste.
Salt was also found in small quantities at several other points. The bed of the dry lake — the
Soda lake — at the sink of the Mojave, was covered with a saline incrustation, already described.

1 See report on the Geology of the route near the 32d parallel, p. 37, Pacific R. R. Explorations and Surveys, &c.
8 Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, p. 24. * Report of an Examination of New Mexico, p. 487.

♦Commerce of the Prairies, Vol. i, p. 176.

JS.P.R.R.EX.A SURVEYS. 35^PA-RAT.T .FT.

" : " , GEOLOGY". PX. I

XT.S,f.R.R.EX.& StHRVEYS . 35*PARAIXEL ■ . • GEOLOGY PLATE H

f

FI Gs 1 . 2 .TEBEBRATUIiA MILL1PUN OGATA r FIG? 3.4.5.T. SUBTILATA.— FIG9 6.8. SPIRIFER L1NEATUS. - FIG3 9.1213. SP CAMERATU&.
FIG! 10.11. S.KENTTTCKENSIS.- FIG? 16,17 , PRODUCTUS SEMIRETICUIATITS .— FIG? 14.15, P. RO&ERSI .

CHAPTER IX.

DESCRIPTIONS AND NOTICES OP THE EOSSILS COLLECTED UPON THE

KOUTE.

BY PROFESSOR JAMES HALL.

The fossils of this collection were submitted to me by Mr. W. P. Blake, in July, 1855.
They consist of cretaceous and carboniferous species, most of them previously described and
well known. A considerable number of specimens were not sufficiently perfect to be identified
and described in detail, though they were clearly of the age of the formations designated
above. At the time of my examination, two of the carboniferous species were undescribed ;
since then, however, one of them has been described by Dr. Shumard, in the Geological Report
of the State of Missouri.

The following list embraces those which have been recognized, with the single new species.

LIST OP FOSSILS DESCRIBED AND FIGURED.

Grypilea Pitcheri. Plate I, figures 1-6.

Gryphjea Pitcheri, var. navia. Plate I, figures 7-10.

Ostrea congesta. Plate I, figure 11.

Terebratula millepunctata. Plate II, figures 1 and 2.

Terebratdla subtilitus. Plate II, figures 3, 4, and 5.

Spirifer lineatus. Plate II, figures 6, 7, and 8.

Spirifer Kentuckensis. Plate II, figures 10 and 11.

Spirifer cameratus. Plate II, figures 9, 12, and 13.

Productus Rogersi. Plate II, figures 14 and 15.

Productus semireticulatus. Plate II, figures 16 and 17.

CRETACEOUS SPECIES.

GRYPHiEA, Lamarck. GRYPHiEA PITCHERI. — Plate I, figs. 1-6.

Grypilea Pitcheri, Morton, Synopsis of the Organic Remains of the Cretaceous Group of the

United States, 1834, page 55, plate XV, fig. 9.
Gryph.S5a Tucumcarii, Marcou, Resume of a Geological Reconnoissance, &c.
Gryph^ia dilatata, var. Tucumcarii, Marcou, Bulletin de la Soc. Geol. de France. Tome XII

Mai, 1855, plate XXI, figs. 1, 2, 3.

Shell subovate, more or less thickened, expanded, distinctly lobed ; lower valve very convex,
gibbous in the middle ; beak more or less strongly incurved; umbo large and prominent; upper
valve thick, subconvex anteriorly, concave in the middle ; postero-ventral margin sinuate and
elevated in a line corresponding to the depression in the opposite valve; surface strongly lamel-
lose, with sometimes a few impressed radiating lines near the centre.

This shell presents much variation in specimens from different localities, and even in those
from the same locality. In well marked specimens the larger valve is very distinctly lobed by
a broad, undefined depression, extending from the posterior side of the back to the postero-
ventral margin. It is sometimes simply convex, often gibbous and extremely arcuate, with (he
beak strongly incurved. In the simply convex specimens, the inner side of the beak often pre-
sents but a slight incurvation, while the exterior is still strongly arcuate. The surface exhibits
more or less distinctly, an imbricate-lamellose structure. The upper valve is often abruptly
elevated in front, flat or concave in the middle, with the surface strongly imbricate-lamellose,

100

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

particularly towards the margins, and sometimes with radiating striaa in the centre. The sin-
uosity and elevation in the postero-ventral margin corresponds to the depression in the opposite
valve, and in small specimens is often not conspicuous. In young shells, the surface of the
lower valve is not unfrequently costate-imhricate.

This shell, in some of its varieties, resembles G. vesicularis, and the upper valve might he
mistaken for that species ; the strongly incurved beak and the more direct sinus of the larger
valve are distinctive characters.

It has clearly the typical form and characters of the species, as will he seen by referring to
Dr. Morton's figure of a small individual. Numerous specimens from different localities have
been examined, and the characters are sufficiently constant in all to leave no doubt of the
specific identity. The specimens figured by Dr. Roeiner in his Kreide von Texas, as G. Pitcheri,
may be an extreme variety of that species, but we have not yet seen specimens showing satis-
factorily the gradation from one to the other. The specimens upon which Mr. Marcou pro-
posed the new species, are evidently much larger and finer ones than were possessed by Dr.
Morton when he wrote his description and gave the figure of this species. The original of his
figure and description, however, is still preserved in the cabinet of the Philadelphia Academy
of Natural Sciences.

Locality. — Brought by Mr. Marcou from Pyramid Mountain, Plaza Larga, Camp 50.

GRYPHiEA PITCHERI, var. NAVIA. — Plate I, figs. 7-10.

GrRYPH.HA Pitcheri, Eo'emer, Kreide von Texas, page 73, plate IX, fig. 1.

Shell elongate, narrow-subovate ; lower valve longitudinal, somewhat trilobate ; a distinct
depression extending from the posterior side of the beak to the base of the shell ; anterior side
flattened or slightly depressed; middle gibbous and extremely arcuate; beak abruptly incurved,
laterally compressed, and turned to the posterior side ; hinge line short ; upper valve unknown.

Specimens of this form are very abundant, judging from the collections made in the west.
The general aspect of the shell is that of G. Pitcheri, but it is much narrower, more elongated,
and more trilobate than the typical forms of that species. The larger valves are usually very
thick, and often distorted from this cause. The extreme incurvation of the beak is most con-
spicuous on the exterior ; and though the thickening of the shell sometimes obliterates this
character upon the inner side, it is, nevertheless, a characteristic feature. This form is the one
usually referred to G. Pitcheri, and in its extreme character is well represented in the figures of
Dr. Roemer, cited above. Like the preceding, in its young state it is sub-costate-imbricate on
the larger valve ; but this character disappears with age, and the lamellose structure becomes
very conspicuous sometimes on the ridges, rising into squamose node-like elevations.

Locality. — False Washita, Camp 31. The same has likewise been brought from numerous
other localities in the west.

OSTREA, Linneus. OSTREA CONGESTA. — Plate I, fig. 11.

Ostrea Congesta, Conrad, Nicollet's Report, page 167. Washington, 1843.

" Shell elongated, upper valve flat, lower valve ventricose, irregular ; the umbo truncated by
a mark of adhesion."

In the young specimens, when not distorted by pressure, the form is obliquely ovate, with a
sharp triangular beak curving to the left, and a small well-defined area, the shell adhering by
the entire outer surface ; the margins are abruptly inflected, so as to become vertical to the
plane of the adhering surface and continue to grow in that direction, the inner side crenulated
at the junction of the upper valve. In older specimens the form is distorted by the pressure of
contiguous individuals, and the beak truncated by adhesion, and finally becomes obsolete ; the
entire valve often assumes a somewhat semi-cylindrical or tubular form.

The shell is extremely abundant, and in its stages of growth presents all the variable charac-
ters of form observed in other species which live in closely aggregated masses.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FOSSILS.

101

This species is usually found in thin, more or less continuous, layers, adhering to the surface
of calcareous laminae, which are largely composed of fibrous calcareous matter, similar to the
outer part of the shell of Inoceramus, mingled with fragments of other shells. Sometimes
laminae of this fibrous calcareous mass, several inches square, are entirely covered with this
oyster adhering to one side. In other instances the fibrous laminae fill interstices between the
shells, and radiate from different centres, as if having filled the space subsequent to the growth
of the shells.

Locality. — Brought by Mr. Marcou from three miles north of Galisteo ; from the cretaceous
marls on the Missouri by J. N. Nicollet ; and by Mr. Meek and Dr. Hayden from the lower
beds of the cretaceous rocks on the Missouri river, twenty-six miles above the mouth of l'Eau
qui Court.

CARBONIFEROUS SPECIES.

TEREBRATULA, Shwyd. TEREBRATULA MILLEPUNCTATA, n. sp.— Plate II, figs. 1, 2.

Shell elongate ; curved from beak to base, dorsal (ventral) valve, with a broad mesial depres-
sion, extending the entire length of the shell, obtusely subangular at the sides, which project
beyond the margin of the opposite valve ; ventral (dorsal) valve varying from flat to extremely
convex or gibbous along the line from beak to base ; surface minutely but conspicuously
punctate. *

The specimen in the collection is imperfect, the beak of the larger valve being broken off.
The smaller valve is slightly concave, in a longitudinal direction, and somewhat semi-
cylindrical .

Other specimens from Topeka, in Kansas, are extremely gibbous on the middle of the smaller
valve ; while the larger valve is extremely arcuate, and the beak abruptly incurved with a per-
foration above the apex. The Topeka specimens are less elongate than the one here described.

Locality. — Pecos village (New Mexico) associated with T. subtilita, and Spirifer cameratus,
and S. lineatus.

TEREBRATULA SUBTILITA. — Plate II, figs. 3, 4, 5.

Tbrebbatula subtilita, Hall ; Stansbury's Report, page 409, plate IV, figs. 1 and 2.

Gibbous, obovoid, valves nearly equally convex ; beak of dorsal valve elevated, incurved, and
perforated at the apex ; a mesial depression commencing just below the centre and extending to
the front, which is produced and elevated, filling a broad sinus in the ventral valve ; surface
marked by strong concentric lines of growth, with faint, almost imperceptible, radiating striae.

There are a large number of specimens of young and full grown individuals, exhibiting a
great variety of form. In many instances the mesial depression is not fully developed until the
individual is more than half grown ; but sometimes it is well exhibited in the young shell.
Several of the specimens show a narrow, sharply impressed line along the mesial depression
from the beak to the base of the dorsal valve.

Locality. — Pecos village, near Santa Fe, New Mexico, where it occurs in abundance, associ-
ated with Productus and Spirifer cameratus.

It was also found on the Missouri river, near Weston ; and is known in numerous localities
in the west.

SPIRIFER, Smverby. SPIRIFER LINEATUS.— Plate II, figs 6, 7, 8.

Anomites lineatus, Martin.

Spirifer lineatus, Be Koninck, De Verneuil, and other authors.

, Shell inflated subglobose ; sometimes transverse and subelliptic ; dorsal valve scarcely more
convex than the ventral valve; mesial line marked by a scarcely perceptible impressed line
which sometimes becomes developed in a shallow sinus in front; umbo prominent, beak incurved,
area short, extremities rounded ; surface marked by fine concentric laminae which are crossed
by longitudinal striae.

102

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

These shells vary from elliptical or depressed globose to rotund and inflated forms. The area
is often inconspicuous, and the beaks of the two valves are nearly -equally prominent. The
surface of the specimens is in general somewhat exfoliated, and presents a striato-punctate
appearance. Sometimes the concentric and radiating striae are nearly equal in strength ; and
the punctae or bases of the small tubular spines are scarcely perceptible. In better preserved
specimens the fimbriated character is conspicuous.

The form and essential characters possessed by these specimens leave no doubt of their identity
with the European species to which they are referred.

Locality. — Pecos village, New Mexico, associated with the preceding species. This species is
common in the carboniferous limestone of Europe.

SPIRIFER KENTUCKENSIS . — Plate II, figs 10, 11.

Spirifer Kentuckensis, Shumard, Geological Report of Missouri, 1855, page 203.
Spirifer octoplicatds, Hall, Stansbury's Report, 1852, plate IV, fig 4.

Shell subtrigonal or semicircular, more or less elongate, gibbous, with from four to six plica-
tions on each side of the mesial sinus, plications rounded, beaks remote ; beak of the dorsal
valve very prominent and slightly incurved ; area large ; surface marked by closely imbricating
concentric striae, which are studded with minute granulations.

Specimens of this species from different localities show some variations; those from Weston,
in Missouri, being more gibbose, with the plications less angular than those from Pecos village.*

Dr. Shumard says of this species, that it has from " six to nine plaits on each side of the
mesial sinus." I have not been able to see specimens with more than six plications on each
side ; though it is not improbable that this character may undergo much variation with age.

This speciee resembles the Spirifer octoplicatus of Sowerby, to which I formerly referred it
with doubt. It bears some relation to Sp. crispus, Dalman, but is less pointed at the extremi-
ties, the plications are less angular, and the concentric laminae less abruptly arched; while the
minute granulations of the present species are represented by the short striae in that one.

Locality. — Pecos village, associated with Spirifer cameratus and Terebratula subtilita. It
occurs in the same connection at Weston, Missouri, and at other localities.

SPIRIFER CAMERATUS.— Plate II, figs 9, 12, 13.

Spirifer cameratus, Morton, 1836, American Journal of Science, vol. 29, p. 150, plate II, fig 3.
Spirifer meusebachanus, Ro'emer, Texas, p. 420, 1849 ; Kreide von Texas, 1852, p. 88, plate
XI, fig 7.

Spirifer triplicatds, Hall, Stansbury's Report, 1852, p. 410, plate IV, fig 5.

Shell large inflated, transverse, subtrigonal or semicircular; scarcely alate; plications numer-
ous, rounded or subangular, disposed in fasciculi; dorsal valve with the sinus of moderate depth,
becoming very broad at the base, and marked by longitudinal plications; beak acute and
strongly incurved; area moderately large, sublinear extending to the extremities of the hinge
line, and vertically striated ; ventral valve with the mesial elevation distinct, marked by longi-
tudinal plications.

The form of this shell varies in some degree in specimens from different localities. It is in
general somewhat inflated, and varies from trigonal to semicircular, depending on the promi-
nence of the lower margin of the shell. The umbo is often very gibbous, and the beak abruptly
incurved, but in this character there are some variations. The mesial sinus is subangular
above, and becomes broader and gently curved towards the base. The longitudinal striae are

tJ When these collections were first submitted to me in July, 1855, 1 suggested the name of Spirifer pilosus for this species ;
and it having once been in print, though not published under this name, I here make the explanation. The publication of
Dr. Shumard's name in December, 1855, has consequently precedence over the one proposed by me.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FOSSILS.

103

disposed in fascicles, and in some specimens pretty uniformly of three plications in each ; others
are irregular. The mesial elevation is often marked by two fascicles of three plications each,
even when the lemaining plications are' irregularly disposed.

A comparison of specimens from different localities shows that the one described by me in
Captain Stansbury's report under the name of Sp. triplicatus is identical with specimens from
New Mexico which correspond with the figures given by Dr. Roemer of Sp. meusebachanus.
Specimens from a limestone in the coal measures of Greentown, Ohio, are more extended
laterally, and more nearly semicircular than the southwestern specimens; and they likewise
present some slight differences in the strength and disposition of the plications, but are clearly
identical species.

Locality. — Occurs abundantly at the Pecos villages near Santa Fe, New Mexico ; where it is
associated with the preceding and following species.

This species has perhaps a wider geographical distribution than any one of this genus yet
known upon the continent. Dr. Roemer cites the species from the San Saba valley, Texas, twenty
miles below the old Spanish forts. It occurs likewise in considerable numbers at Greentown,
Ohio, where the writer collected it in 1841. It is known in northern Illinois and as far north
as Nebraska, and there can be little doubt but it will be found in limestone of the same age in
the region of the Great Salt Lake.

PRODUCTUS, Sawerby. PRODUCTTJS SEMIRETICULATUS. — Plate II, figs. 16, 17.

Anomites semireticulatus, Martin, 1809.

Productus semireticulatus, P. Martini, P. antiquatus, &c, of authors. For synonoray and
references see De Koninck, Monograph of Productus and Chonetes, page 83.

Dorsal valve gibbous, subquadrate, beak recurved, umbo prominent ; a sinus more or less
deep extends from near the beak, and becomes deeper and more expanded upon the middle of
the shell ; hinge line equal to the greatest width of the shell ; surface marked by longitudinal
rounded ribs which are more or less regular (often irrregular) in size, increasing in number
chiefly on the sides of the shell ; these are crossed on the upper half of the shell by concentric
elevated lines which are nearly of the same size as the longitudinal ribs ; surface tuberculous at
the decussating of the two sets of lines.

The specimens in the collection do not preserve the ventral valve, and they are otherwise
imperfect ; but their close resemblance to the figures of De Koninck, as well as identity with
what are regarded as authentic specimens of this species, leave no hesitation in thus referring
them.

The specimens are all strongly marked on the upper half of the shell by decussating lines ;
and in some the longitudinal ribs exhibit the bases of spines, and in a single specimen the bases
of spines are preserved at the junction of the ears with the body of the shell.

This is a very characteristic carboniferous species, being widely distributed both in Europe
and America. According to Mr. De Verneuil, this species occurs in the United States at
Harrisville, Bagdad, and Cuyahoga, Ohio; near Louisville, Kentucky ; near St. Louis, Missouri,
and at Fort Leavenworth ; in Indiana and Illinois, in Alabama and Tennessee, and at Bloss-
burgh, Pennsylvania.

The three first-named localities are in the Chemung group ; and some of the others are in the
carboniferous limestones below the coal, while others are in the coal measures, or upper car-
boniferous limestone, showing a remarkable vertical range. The specimens under consideration
are from the coal measures, or upper carboniferous limestone. We know this species also from
Fort Laramie, and it has been brought in various collections from the extreme western and
southwestern extension of the carboniferous formation in the United States and Mexico.

Locality. — From the Pecos villages.

104

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

PRODUCTUS ROGERSL— Plate II, figs. 14, 15.

Productus Rogersi, Norwood and Pratten, in Journal Acad. Nat. Scien., Philadelphia, Vol.
Ill, 1854, page 9, plate I, fig. 3.

" Shell of medium size, slightly transverse ; dorsal valve very high and strongly enrolled on
itself ; cardinal horder equal to about four-fifths of its greatest transverse diameter ; beak rather
large, and passing beyond the cardinal border ; ears but little distinct from the dorsal vault.
The anterior part is flattened, and possesses a slight sinus. The surface is covered with ribs,
of which twelve may be counted in the space of ten millimetres, at the distance of ten milli-
metres from the beak. It is also covered in its whole extent with transverse folds. Those
nearest the beak are rather small, but after passing the visceral disc they rapidly increase in
size to near the middle of the shell, after which they again decrease in size to the margin.
The whole anterior portion of the shell seems to have been pretty thickly covered with tubercles,
especially between the transverse bands, while a few were distributed over the remainder of the
surface."

The dorsal valve is inflated and extremely arcuate ; the beak incurved and extending slightly
beyond the cardinal line ; mesial line flat or subdepressed ; surface (in a partially exfoliated
condition) marked by interrupted longitudinal ribs and stronger concentric undulations or
ridges, which are stronger towards the beak. Where not exfoliated, the longitudinal ribs are
interrupted only by the concentric undulations, which, at the crossing, sometimes produce a
slight nodulosity. In the exfoliated shell, the longitudinal ribs are often not continuous across
the concentric undulations ; and they appear as if gradually rising from the surface, and termi-
nating suddenly below, as if forming the base of a spine. In the same specimens there is
frequently a row of deep pits between the concentric undulations, with numerous finer punctse.
A single specimen shows the prominent round bases of a few spines upon the front and central
parts of the shell. The ventral valve is strongly marked upon its upper part by nearly equal
longitudinal and concentric ridges, the latter becoming fainter below the curvature of the shell ;
surface of the ventral valve nodulose at the crossing of the two sets of ridges.

The figures of Messrs. Norwood and Pratten are not unlike some European figures of P.
pustulosus, but these gentlemen compare the shell with P. undatus as its nearest analogue.
Our specimens are unlike DeKoninck's figures of the latter, and more resemble those of the
former species.

We have in our collection authentic specimens of this species from Springfield, Illinois, which
are clearly identical with the specimens under examination.

Locality. — Pecos villages, in the coal measures, or upper carboniferous limestone.

Imperfect specimens, the specific characters of which are obscure or indeterminable.

No. 123. — "Polypier du lower carboniferous, Rocky mountains." These specimens contain
remains of Zaphrentis and Cyathophyllum, of carboniferous types.

No. 123^. — "Polypier briozoaire, of the coal measures near to Choctaw agency." This
specimen contains remains of Fenestella. It appears to be a portion of a transported mass, one
of the surfaces being worn smooth.

No. 124. "Delaware Mount, Camp 19." Several specimens from this locality contain a
species of orthis, but too imperfect to be identified. It is evidently a carboniferous form. A
specimen from the same place, No. 59 of catalogue, is a compact, crystalline, buff-colored lime-
stone, containing crinoidal fragments.

No. 125. — "Fossils of the lower carboniferous, Shawneetown." Some specimens marked
" Shawneetown" are a fine-grained sandstone, with numerous casts and fragments of crinoids,
a species of Productus, a Nucula, and an impression of Pleurotomaria spha&rulata.

No. 127. — " Encampment creek, Jurassic inferior." A specimen with this label and marked

DESCRIPTION OF THE FOSSILS.

105

also from the "formation of the Llano Estacado," contains casts of small shells, too obscure
and imperfect to decide the specific characters, or determine the age of the formation to which
they belong. They are imbedded in a compact ferruginous rock.

No. 128. ? This specimen has no label ;. it is a gray or ash-colored carbonate

of lime, evidently of organic origin. It consists of innumerable closely arranged fibres or
small hexagonal prisms, having a direction transverse to the surface . of the slab, and more or
less irregularly curved and radiating. The specimen is from one quarter to three quarters of
an inch in thickness, and five inches long, somewhat abruptly curved in a transverse direction.
The concave side is unequally striated and grooved, evidently from the surface of some body to
which it has adhered. The exterior is concentrically undulated, like the surface of a shell, the
undulations converging in one direction.

The general structure is similar to that of Chaetetes, and like the coarser fibrous portions of
the outer shell of Inoceramus. Professor Tuomey, to whom the specimen has been subsequently
shown, pronounces it to be the shell of a large species of Inoceramus, having found similar
specimens in Alabama with the hinge attached. The specimen under consideration has all the
characters of having these relations ; but it is not so easy to account for the occurrence of simi-
lar fibrous laminae of many inches square, having but little thickness, and extending for many
inches, and covered with valves of the Ostrea congesta.

No. 126. — "Three miles north of Gralisteo." The smaller specimens with this label are
similar to the preceding, consisting of thinner laminae, with broad undulations upon the exterior
surface, and coarse striae, or what appear to be impressions of imbricating lamellae upon the
under or concave surface. The fibrous material exhibits lines of successive growth, and is
sometimes separable into thinner laminae. These specimens do not exceed a quarter of an inch
in thickness.

No. 126. — "Three miles north of Galisteo." These specimens contain numerous fragments
of shells and impressions of the surface of Ammonites, and Inoceramus, but all of them too
imperfect to be specifically recognized. Notwithstanding the fine specimens of the fibrous outer
shell of Inoceramus described above, no specimens of entire individuals have yet been brought
in among these collections.*

Nos, 122 and 129. — " Carboniferous fossils west of San Francisco mountain." These speci-
mens include fragments of two species of Productus of large size. One of these is probably
allied to or identical with Productus semireticulatus , having the same kind of superficial marking
in its longitudinal striae, crossed by concentric lines near the beak, and not on the body of the
shell. Two other specimens, in addition to these characters, have also the broad mesial sinus
of that species. Among the specimens from this locality are two of hornstone, containing frag-
ments of coral too obscure to be determined.

With the Productus and Spirifer of the carboniferous formation, we find also several frag-
ments of crinoidal columns belonging to two different species, but too imperfect to be identified ;
also some fragments of Cyathophyllum in the same condition. They are all from the carboni-
ferous limestone at the Pecos villages.

No. 130. — " Orthoceras pres d'Agua Fria, Sierra Madre." This is a portion of the outer
chamber of an Orthoceras, too obscure for determination. It is in a greenish argillaceous
limestone.

° In the specimens from the Missouri, above the mouth of l'Eau qui Court, already referred to, the Ostrea conges'a is
attached to fibrous lamina?, precisely similar to those described above, except that they are rarely more than a quarter of
an inch, and often not more than an eighth of an inch in thickness. These lamina) appear to have been flexible, as they
are often bent and folded among the shells ; and they exhibit abrupt inequalities, filling the irregular spaces between the
shells, and radiating in somewhat hemispheric elevations upon the surface. These lamina; extend in broken pieces often
for many yards, and are attached and cemented together by calcareous matter, and covered with almost continuous layers
of the Ostrea. Mr. Meek informs me that he has seen similar fragments or lamina? scattered at intervals through the heds
of clay succeeding that containing the Ostrea, but without any shells attached. What appears most remarkable in this
instance is that no species of Inoceramus is known in the bed which contains the Ostrea congesta, at least in the locality
where this shell is so abundant, and where the fibrous laminas occupy so conspicuous a place.

14 t

CHAPTER X.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

Granitic and metamorphic rocks. — Volcanic rocks. — Trap from dykes near galisteo. — Lava from san francisco
mountain. — Stratified rocks and gypsum. — Limestone of Delaware mountain. — Magnesian limestone of the llano
estacado. — Gypsum and selenite. — Sandstone from the cajon pass. — Miscellaneous specimens. — Ores and minerals. —
Copper ore. — Gold. — Iron ore. — Hematite. — Absence of Magnetite. — Coal. — Sigillaria. — Lepidodendron.

GRANITIC AND METAMORPHIC.
[No. 1 to No. 38.]

Nos. 1 and 2. Canon de Tejeras, near Albuquerque. — These two specimens, as the labels
indicate, appear to be from the same locality. They are also alike in their mineral character.
The granite may be said to be coarse-grained, and contains a large amount of black or dark
green mica, in masses from one-sixteenth to one-quarter of an inch in diameter. I have not
detected any hornblende in the specimens.

No. 3. Pueblo creek'. — This specimen is a compact, fine-grained granite, of a delicate lilac
color, modified by the grains of dark-colored mica. It is slightly porphyritic, containing several
small isolated crystals of feldspar. The pink or lilac color appears to be due partly to the
quartz, which is purplish or amethystine. This rock will furnish excellent building material.

No. 4. Between Pueblo creek and Turkey creek. — This specimen is a large mass of amorphous
quartz, stained with oxide of iron, and bounded on two sides by implanted crystals of a beauti-
ful white silvery mica. The specimen appears to be a part of a vein which probably traversed
a granitic rock. A small cavity in one end of the quartz is cellular, and appears to have been
filled with iron pyrites, which has probably produced the stains on the surface of its decompo-
sition. I am informed by Mr. Campbell, who collected this specimen, that it occurs in a granite
rock which underlies a thick mass of red sandstone and beds of limestone. These strata are
nearly one thousand feet thick, and rest horizontally on the granite. They form the margin of
an extensive mesa formation, stretching far northward towards the great canon of the Colorado
river. He also states that quartz veins or " ledges" are common in that region, and that the
country presents many indications of the presence of gold. The specimen in hand is too com-
pact and hard to be regarded as auriferous, but yet may be a portion of a gold-bearing vein,
and the former presence of pyrites is a good indication. The mica crystals in this specimen are
interesting for their well-marked crystallization. They have the usual form of Muscovite micas,
the regular rhombic prism.

No. 5. Pueblo creek. — This specimen, although apparently from the same region as No. 4,
and containing a similar silvery mica, differs from it in containing a large portion of feldspar,
which, with the quartz, renders it a coarse-grained granite, and it is so labelled by Mr. Marcou.
The mica is found at one side of the specimen only, and thus indicates that it formed part of
the wall of a vein.

No. 6. Sierra Madre, Aqua Fria. — This specimen may be considered to be a very coarse-
grained granite. It consists chiefly of feldspar, of which mineral there are two varieties ; one
white, and cleaving with broad, flat faces, and the other flesh-red, and in smaller and less regu-
lar masses. Quartz, in coarse grains — some as large as the end of one's thumb — is found with
this feldspar. A white silvery mica is also present in small quantity, but is not in defined crys-

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

107

tals ; it is interleaved in fragmentary films between the masses of feldspar. ISTo dark mica or
any hornblende is visible in the specimen.

No. 7. Canon San Antonio. — In composition this specimen simulates No. 6, but differs from
it in its texture, and in the color of the mica, which in this is dark and in larger quantity.
It contains both white and flesh-red feldspar in nearly equal quantities, but quartz is almost
entirely absent. The minerals are all intimately mingled, and in consequence the mass presents
a very even grain. The white feldspar is principally in imperfectly-formed crystals, giving a
porphyritic character and appearance to the rock. The predominant color of this rock is pink
from the feldspar, and it is well suited to building purposes.

No. 8. Canon of San Antonio. — This rock is similar to No. 7, and appears to have been taken
from the same outcrop. It, however, contains a large crystal of white feldspar, and has a
distinctly defined linear arrangement of the minerals approaching that of gneiss.

No. 9. Aquarius mountains, camp before Cactus Pass. — This is a rose-colored granite, compact
and even in its texture, with a good grain, and suitable for building purposes. The feldspar is
red or reddish, especially the outer parts of the crystals. The mica is dark-colored, and is not
in distinct crystals, but is evenly distributed through the mass.

No. 10. From the same locality as No. 9 ; appears similar, but is somewhat lighter in color,
and the weathered surface shows the presence of two varieties of feldspar.

No. 11. Summit of Cactus Pass, Aquarius mountains. — This specimen consists of coarse crys-
talline masses of a brilliant red feldspar, and white, translucent quartz. A little dark mica is
also seen.

No. 12. Cactus Pass, Aquarius mountains. — This specimen corresponds with what is usually
called gneiss. It consists of mica and small white feldspathic grains, ranged in parallel layers.
The mass has the appearance of a metamorphic rock.

No. 13. Aquarius mountains. — A fragment of granite traversed by veins of compact epidote.

No. 14. Cerbat mountains, Bill Williams' fork. — This is a beautiful flesh-colored granite.
The mica is distributed in detached crystalline grains, and being very dark and compact, re-
sembles hornblende, and gives the rock a strong resemblance to sienite. The quartz of the
specimen is amethystine and rose-colored, and the feldspar is reddish, translucent, and in crys-
talline grains, presenting a porphyritic character.

No. 15. Bill Williams' fork. — A coarse-grained sienitic granite. The feldspar is in large
reddish imperfectly-formed crystals, and the hornblende is dark-colored but not abundant.

No. 16. Mouth of Big Sandy creek, {Bill Williams' fork of the Colorado.) — This specimen is
a coarse-grained porphyritic granite, with large imperfect crystals of a rose-colored feldspar. It
contains also a lighter-colored variety, in small quantity, and a dark-colored mica.

No. 17. Cerbat mountains, on Bill Williams' fork. — This is a dark, reddish-brown rock, in
which the mineral characters are not well defined. It is micaceous and contains white grains,
which are probably feldspar. This mineral, with the mica, is evidently arranged in parallel
layers, and the rock is gneissose, and probably metamorphic.

No. 18. Near the mouth of the Bill Williams' fork of the Colorado. — A compact dark-red
granite, highly ferruginous, and not presenting an even, clear grain. It has the appearance of
a weathered specimen stained by iron. (No. 35 is a similar rock from the same locality.)

No. 19. Bill Williams' fork of the Colorado. — A dark-green metamorphic rock, with a quartz
vein running parallel with the structural lines of the rock. Grains and threads of similar
white opaque quartz are also seen running in parallel lines through other parts of the mass.
The green color appears to be due to chlorite, or green mica. The mass emits a strong argilla-
ceous odor when it is moistened by the breath.

No. 20. Bill Williams' fork, near its mouth. — This specimen bears a general resemblance to
No. 19, but the minerals in this are more distinct, while in the other they are not separately
defined. The structural character of this rock is at once apparent, and the mass cleaves more

108

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

readily in one direction than in another. It is composed of a succession of layers of hornblende
and mica with white quartz and feldspar.

Nos. 21 and 22. Bill Williams' fork. — This specimen is peculiar in its appearance, and con-
sists chiefly of irregular masses and fragments of white granular quartz, imhedded in a greenish
paste or matrix. One of the specimens contains small, partly decomposed cubes of iron pyrites.

No. 23. Camp near Picaclio. — A rose-colored granite, containing grains of feldspar of two
colors. The mica is light-colored and silvery, and in distinct plates. The texture of the
specimen is not even.

No. 24. Behceen the Colorado and the Mojave rivers. — A hard, compact, even-grained, and
dark-colored granite. In this rock the feldspar has a slightly reddish color, and is well crys-
tallized ; it is very evenly distributed among the other minerals, which are present in nearly
equal quantities. The mica is dark, and in distinct crystalline grains. This iock, if abundant,
would make beautiful huilding-stone.

No. 25. Rio Colorado, beloio the Mojave villages. — This specimen is a well-characterized sie-
nite, consisting of feldspar and hornblende — the former in very irregular, amorphous, or granu-
lar masses; and the latter well crystallized, and showing the characteristic cleavage of the
species on all parts of the specimen. It has a green color, which is also the predominating
color of the specimen, it being modified by the grains of white feldspar only. No quartz or
mica can be seen in this rock. It is probably erupted, and not metamorphic.

No. 26. Colorado river, beloio the Mojave villages. — This specimen consists of white quartz
and feldspar in alternate layers, interleaved with films of mica, thus showing a structural char-
acter, and indicating a sedimentary origin, and that it is metamorphic.

No. 27. Cajon creek. — A heautiful white, crystalline limestone. This rock is perfectly white,
and has a heautiful crystalline grain, which renders the fractured surfaces very hrilliant. It is
a heautiful marble, and is well suited for huildings. The specimen being labelled Cajon creek,
leads me to conclude that it was hroken from a rolled or transported fragment, especially as I
myself saw hlocks of this limestone in the hed of that creek, hut was not ahle to find the source
or outcrop from which they were broken. It probahly exists in the high ridges on the east of
the valley of the pass.

No. 30. Camp 52. — This specimen is lahelled ''Sulfate de Baryte," hut prohably by mistake,
since it consists of white feldspar, with its characteristic cleavage. It contains several small
masses of translucent quartz, and is from a coarse granite or a granite vein.

No. 31. Bettueen Tuerto and Galisteo. — Mr. Marcou has labelled this specimen "Hornhlende
rock," which it may very properly he called, consisting, as it does, chiefly of black hornblende
in small crystals, intermingled with white granules of feldspar and quartz, giving the whole
mass a dark grey color. The hornhlende appears to be disposed in parallel planes, and a
structure is thus given to the rock, and it might he called a hornhlende slate.

No. 36. Near to Picacho. — This specimen is a reddish and granular granite, of very fine
grain, so that it at first resemhles sandstone. The feldspar is red, and one or two small, well-
formed crystals, of a more glassy and colorless variety, are seen in the specimen. The mica is
in small, hrilliant scales, and is abundantly disseminated.

No. 37. Pueblo creek. — This specimen is an amorphous, compact mass of reddish rock, proha-
hly feldspathic. It is marked metamorphic hy Mr. Marcou, hut it is impossible to determine
to what formation it helonged, nor are its characters sufficiently well marked to determine its
mineral character without analysis.

VOLCANIC ROCKS.
[■So. 38 to No 59.]

No. 38. Trap forming a dyke m the White Chalk, Rio Galisteo, Neio Mexico. — This specimen
presents weathered surfaces on all sides hut one, and appears to have heen broken from a loose

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

109

mass or boulder. It is a compact, dark-colored trap, resembling tbe ordinary trap-rock of tbe
Palisades along tbe Hudson river and East and West Eocks, near New Haven.

No. 39. From betiveen Tuerto and Galisleo. — According to Mr. Marcou, this rock forms a dyke.
Its eruptive character is also clearly indicated by the specimen, it having the peculiar crystal-
line grain and compact character common to recent intruded rocks. The mass has a pleasing
grey color, produced by the intermingling of white semi-crystalline granules of feldspar with
brilliant needle-shaped crystals of black hornblende. The rock may with propriety be called
diorite, this name having been proposed for volcanic rocks in which hornblende is abundant,
and mingled Avith feldspar.

No. 40. Village of Sineguilla, near Santa Fe. — This specimen, like the preceding, is charac-
terized by the presence of distinct crystals of black hornblende ; but it differs from the first in
the nature of the base through which the hornblende is distributed. In this specimen it is
compact and nearly homogeneous, being without the granular or crystalline character of No. 39.
The color of the base is a bluish-grey, and the disseminated crystals of hornblende give the
specimen the appearance and character of a porphyry. There is a general parallelism between
the hornblende crystals of the rock.

No. 41. Canon de Tejeras, near Albuquerque. — This specimen much resembles a fragment of
metamorphored slate, having a distinct lamellar structure, and cleaving more readily in one
direction than in others. It consists of alternate layers of compact, dark-green argillaceous
rock, with thin films of carbonate of lime. It is labelled Trap serpentineuse by Mr. Marcou ;
but, although of a green color, does not closely resemble serpentine. The rock at a short dis-
tance resembles ordinary trap or greenstone.

No. 42. Volcano of Cerrito, near Santa Fe, in a dyke. — This specimen is compact, and repre-
sents a uniform grey color, but is without any black hornblende crystals or other dark mineral.
It has the appearance of a specimen that has been long exposed to the action of the atmosphere ;
and, although there are surfaces of fresh fracture, they are dotted here and there by brown
stains, which, on examination, are found to be produced by the decomposition of a ferruginous
mineral, the powder of which is strongly attracted and lifted by a magnet. The mass is also
full of small irregular cavities, some of which appear to have once been occupied by a mineral
which has dissolved away. Crystals of white glassy feldspar are disseminated, and the rock
may be called a feldspar porphyry.

No. 43. Volcano of Cineguilla, near Santa Fe. — This is compact and fine-grained, but not very
hard rock, of a faint lilac color, consisting of numerous disseminated imperfectly-formed crystals
of white feldspar and distinct and well-formed crystals of hornblende.

No. 44. Canon of Sineguilla, near Santa Fe. — This specimen has the appearance and char-
acter of a recent lava. It is hard, and like some trappean rocks in color ; breaks with curved
surfaces and sharp edges ; is amygdaloidal, having numerous air-cells; somewhat elongated,
or almond-shaped. These are hollow, and many are lined with a thin white crust of a zeolitic
mineral, its surface being drusy with brilliant but microscopic crystals, so that the species cannot
be determined. Other cavities are lined with a greenish-yellow crust, enveloping a siliceous
nucleus.

No. 45. From near iJie Pueblo de Zuni. — This specimen is ticketed by Mr. Marcou as basaltic
lava, from the end of the lava stream near the Pueblo of Zuni. It resembles the preceding
specimen in its color and general characters, but is not so compact, being filled with small,
irregular cavities, which render it more porous. It also contains large air-cells, or amygda-
loidal cavities, but which are not lined with minerals. The mass is filled with small vitreous
grains of a smoky tint, which are nearly or quite as hard as quartz. They may, however, bo
crumbled to a white powder under strong pressure by a hard steel-point ; and in this respect,
and in a peculiar metallic lustre which they present in certain positions, they differ from that
mineral, and leave me in doubt as to their true nature. They maybe olivine ; but the grains
being so so small and obscure, it is impossible to examine them with satisfaction.

110

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

No. 46. Leroux's spring. — This is a porphyitic lava, crystals of glassy feldspar being dissem-
inated in a compact dark base. Distinct crystals of black hornblende are abundant. The speci-
men is very small, and much weathered.

No. 47. From a lava stream near Lcroux's spring. — According to Mr. Marcou this specimen
is from a stream of basaltic lava from San Francisco mountain. It very much resembles No.
45, having a similar color, composition, and aggregation. In this specimen the vitreous grains
are more distinct, larger, and better characterized. The color is olive-green ; they are easily
pulverized, and are infusible before the blow-pipe. They are distinct from quartz, and are
probably olivine.

The weathered surface of this rock has a rusty brown color, but the discoloration is only on
the surface, or below it for an eighth of an inch ; the rock is slightly bleached.

No. 48. Volcano of San Francisco mountain. — This is a light amygdaloidal lava, full of elon-
gated air-cells, from the size of a pin's head and smaller to half an inch in length. These cells
are very smooth on the interior, and are of a lighter color than the surrounding portions. The
cells are all elongated and flattened in one direction, showing the mass to have been in a state
of tension when in a fluid or pasty condition. The outside or weathered surface has a reddish
color. The color of the rock is an ash-grey with a faint shade of green.

No. 49. San Francisco mountain. — This is a fine specimen of volcanic scoria, or porous slag.
It is an irregular porous mass, very light, and apparently formed by the dripping of the froth
and scum from the surface of fluid lava. The outer surface is smooth, and presents several
shades of color — black, purple, drab, and grey. It resembles scoriaceous specimens from the
crater of Kilauea and other volcanoes.

No. 50. Aquarius mountains. — This is a beautiful porphyry. The feldspar is in distinct,
well-formed glassy crystals, from one-eighth to three-eighths of an inch long. The base is com-
pact, and of a light purple or rose-color.

No. 51. From the base of San Francisco mountain, near the Colorado Chiquito. — This specimen
is a beautiful amygdaloidal lava, with the cavities very similar in their size and form. They
are lined with a white zeolitic crust, without crystals, and in such small quantity that the
species cannot be readily determined. The base of the rock is dark, compact, and hard, and
presents a pleasing contrast with the white cells. I find in this rock olive-green grains similar
to those which were found in Nos. 45 and 47 ; and, in addition, some which are red, and more
nearly resemble garnet than olivine. On trial before the blow-pipe, however, they are found
to be infusible ; and, as the other characters are exactly those of the green variety, I am led to
regard them as identical.

No. 52. Near the Picacho. — This specimen appears to have been a loose boulder, as rounded
and water-worn surfaces are found on the specimen. It is an exceedingly hard and compact
black rock, breaking with a conchoidal fracture, very brittle, and without any trace of crystal-
lization. The weathered surface is deeply wrinkled, and marked with little pits, looking as if
it had been soft and undergone slight contraction when cooling. In this peculiarity it resem-
bles many of the similar black basaltic pebbles found by me along the Colorado and Gila rivers,
and on the desert, near Carrizo creek, California.

No. 53. Camp near Picacho. — This rock is similar to No. 52, and differs only in being more
compact and vitreous, being not unlike obsidian. Mr. Marcou has ticketed this ilBasalte
obsidienne." It contains one or two isolated, transparent, and colorless vitreous grains, which
resemble quartz, but are softer and mox.e easily crumbled. This specimen, like the preceding,
appears to have been taken from a transported mass.

No. 54. Third chain beyond the Colorado. — This is a small specimen, and much altered by
weathering. It consists of a light-colored feldspathic base, porphyritic, and containing
isolated grains of quartz. It may be called a quartz porphyry.

No. 55. Mojave river. — This is a beautiful green-stone porphyry, the base being a compact,
dark green trappean rock, bearing isolated crystals of a white or light yellow mineral, having

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

Ill

the hardness of feldspar, but without distinct cleavage. They do not exceed one-eighth of an
inch in length, and are sparsely distributed.

No. 56. Mojave river. — A compact brownish-red rock, filled with small and thin crystals
of glassy feldspar, forming a porphyry. This character is not, however, evident, without close
inspection and the aid of a glass. Small grains of quartz are also distributed, and several minute
crystals of brown mica were observed. The feldspar crystals appear to be distributed in parallel
planes throughout the rock.

No. 57. Mesa, near Gila river. — A fragment of volcanic scoria or cinder, full of large cavi-
ties, and very porous. It is black, and one of the surfaces has a green glaze, and is quite
smooth. The curves and folds which it presents show its former plastic condition. This speci-
men was probably taken from a transported mass, and was obtained by Lieutenant A. W.
Whipple when on the boundary survey, and given to Mr. Marcou.

No. 58. Rough and Ready. — This is a compact, hard trap or greenstone, apparently raagne-
sian, and breaking with a brilliant crystalline surface, showing cleavages of imperfect feldspar
crystals. This is from the auriferous region of Grass valley — Eough and Keady being a mining
locality near that town.

STRATIFIED ROCKS AND GYPSUM.
[No. 59 to No. 88.]

No. 59. Delaware mountain. — This is a light-drab or yellowish limestone, charged with
small cylindrical stems of encrinites, which are seen most distinctly on the weathered surfaces.
These fossils are crystalline, while the surrounding rock is amorphous. Mr. Marcou considers
this rock as belonging to the mountain or lower carboniferous limestone.

No. 60. From the foot of the Llano Estacado. — This limestone specimen has a curious appear-
ance, being full of small cavities, and resembling a mass of slag from a furnace. The interior
surface of the cavities is very irregular, and is as smooth as if glazed by heat. It is, however,
completely infusible, and its peculiar vesicular condition must be due to aqueous action. Its
color is a peculiar drab or ash-grey, not easily described. There are no traces of fossils or of
stratification.

No. 61. San Antonio. — This is the largest and heaviest specimen of limestone in the collection.
It has a dark bluish-grey color; is hard and compact, with a fine, even grain. It is very tough,
and if it can be obtained in large blocks, will be valuable for building purposes. There are no
traces of fossils in the specimen, which appears to have been part of a stratum an inch and a half
thick. This rock when heated emits a slight bituminous odor, but it is not perceptible when
the mass is struck by the hammer. If a solution of this rock be freed from lime, and then
treated with phosphate of soda, a very abundant precipitate of magnesia is at once obtained. It
may be regarded as highly magnesian.

No. 62. Colorado Chiquito. — This specimen greatly resembles that last described, and has a
similar grain and color. It has apparently been more exposed to the weather, and has a lighter
color. The mass breaks with curved surfaces.

No. 63. Shady creek, Camp No. 42. — This specimen is a light-drab colored limestone, saccha-
roidal, fine-grained, and compact. It is a hard, firm rock, and is suitable for building. One
of the weathered surfaces shows indications of fossils, but they are not sufficiently distinct to be
recognised.

No. 64. Camp No. 30, near the mounds. — This is a red, porous limestone. Its red color is
distinct, and like that given by per-oxide of iron. The mass is so porous and full of small cavi-
ties, that it resembles a sponge, and on one of the surfaces, which is weather-worn, the little
cavities are well exposed, and are so regular and even in their size, and so closely arranged,
that it gives the specimen an organized appearance, and suggests a coralline origin.

No. 65. Camp No. 46, at the foot of the Llano Estacado. — Mr. Marcou has labelled this speci-

112

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

men " Sandstone of the upper Trias." It is a grey, friable, calcareous sandstone, crumbling
away under the fingers. It effervesces violently with chlorohydric acid, and in addition to the
siliceous grains, has a considerable amount of white mica disseminated in planes parallel to the
stratification. It much resembles recent or Tertiary sandstone. The broad and tabular surface
of the specimen is marked with parts of hieroglyphic characters cut by the Indians.

No. 66. Shady river, Camp No. 42. — Variegated marl, red and clay colored. It emits a
strong argillaceous odor when breathed upon, and effervesces with acids. This is from the
Trias, according to Mr. Marcou.

No. 67. Between Delaware mountain and Beavertown. — This specimen is labelled by Mr.
Marcou " Red and white clays of the Trias." The mass was evidently soft and plastic wlien
collected, and in its color resembles No. 66, just described. It is very fine, and consists chiefly
of clay and carbonate of lime. It effervesces freely with acids.

No. 68. Antelope Hills, Camp No. 36. — This is a white sandstone, with a dark-grey weathered
surface. The specimen presents a remarkable resemblance to several of the sandstone specimens
collected by Captain Pope near the 32d parallel. The grains are siliceous, white and yellow,
and are cemented by a large quantity of amorphous white carbonate of lime ; in fact the grains
seem rather to be imbedded in a paste of carbonate of lime. It most resembles No. 29 of
Captain Pope's collection, found on the surface of the Llano, forty miles east of the Rio Pecos.
The evidences presented by the fossils collected by Captain Pope led to the conclusion that the
sandstone of the Llano was Cretaceous, and I am inclined to refer this specimen to that age.
Mr. Marcou considers it as from the upper Trias.

No. 69. Between Camps No. 31 and No. 32. — This specimen consists almost wholly of per-
oxide of iron, or Limonite, and is apparently the result of infiltration of a solution of iron
among the strata of the formation in which it occurs. Its stratified character is evident on
inspection, and it appears to have resulted from the decomposition of a layer of small bivalve
shells, casts of which are visible, but they are so obscure that the species cannot be recognised.

No. 70. From the foot of the Llano Estacado, probably at Gypsum creek. — This specimen is
one of a series of beautiful masses of red and white gypsum. This is a dark-red mass, a part
of it amorphous or granular, and somewhat porous, and the remainder crystalline, cleaving
with irregular radial surfaces. Its dark-red color — like that of well-burned bricks — appears to
be due to the presence of a large quantity of per-oxide of iron, which is so abundant and uncom-
bined on one side of the specimen that it rubs off upon the fingers and label, giving the charac-
teristic color of rouge, or red ochre. Mr. Marcou considers this specimen to be from the middle
division of the Trias. (Trias moyen.)

No. 71. Gypsum creek. — Red crystalline gypsum. A fine large specimen, with the crystal-
line plates arranged in radial or plumose groups slightly curved, and each plate being only
about one-eighth or three-sixteenths of an inch broad, and from one to three inches long.
Their brilliant surfaces inclined in different directions, together with the peculiar deep-red
color, render the specimen very interesting. Small plates of clear crystalline gypsum (selenite)
are seen in several places imbedded in and among the red plates. The red portions do not
cleave as readily as clear, colorless selenite, and are more brittle. A thin plate held to the
light is translucent, and transparent in places, and the coloring matter, which is per-oxide of
iron, does not appear to be evenly distributed. It is a mechanical mixture, and has probably
influenced the crystallization.

No. 72. ?. — A mass of red and white gypsum in small irregular crystal-
line plates, about one-quarter to one-half of an inch broad, confusedly mingled together. The
predominant color of the mass is red, and it probably came from the same locality as the
preceding, or near it, but there is no label attached to the specimen.

No. 73. Canadian river. — A fragment of colorless crystalline gypsum, selenite, perfectly
transparent and very beautiful. At one end there is a slight depression, partly filled with very
perfect and clear rhombohedrons of dolomite, (carbonate of lime and magnesia.) These crys-

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION.

113

tals have curved surfaces, and some of them are pearly, and resemble the pearl spar found with
the gypsum of Lockport, New York.

No. 74. Comet creek. — A fine specimen of white, amorphous gypsum, very compact and solid.
The mass appears to have formed part of a layer one and a half inches thick, as it has a strati-
fled character, and has two broad, flat surfaces parallel with the layers, and stained as if they
had been in contact with grey or blue marl, or clay. Mr. Marcou marks this specimen as from
the Middle Trias, (" Trias moyen.")

No. 75. Gomete creek. — White saccharoidal gypsum, amorphous. It is slightly stained with
red. From the " Trias moyen," according to Mr. Marcou.

No. 76. Prairie near Gypsum creek. — White fibrous or plumose gypsum. This is apparently
part of a layer about two inches thick, and it has in the middle a divisional seam from which
part of the fibres radiate, and which contains a thin layer of greenish shale.

No. 77. Gypsum creek. — Opaque, amorphous gypsum, with a grey or reddish white color and
fine grain. One side of the specimen is composed of greenish grey shale or clay, which is
traversed by irregular seams or veins of gypsum, that are connected with the principal mass.
It appears to have been imbedded in the blue clay, both faces of the specimen being covered
with it.

No. 78. — ? — This specimen is without a label. It consists of compact amorphous

gypsum of a flesh-red color, and containing patches of blue shale, as in the preceding. It is
probably from the same locality.

No. 79. Grande prairie, Gamp No. 30. — A. white amorphous gypsum, stained with red veins.
The mass is slightly porous or cellular, and somewhat resembles No. 75.

No. 80. Camp 30. — This is similar to No. 79, and is probably from the same bed.

No. 81. Camp 30. — A plate of selenite, surrounded by amorphous gypsum veined with rea
It is probably from the same bed as the preceding.

No. 82. San Antonio. — A white granular gypsum, with a pleasing crystalline grain resembling
some fine-grained marbles. It is white, solid, and compact. This is from the " Trias," accord-
ing to Mr. Marcou.

No. 83. Cajon Pass, (from the Great Basin to San Bernardino.) — White or reddish white sand-
stone, composed chiefly of feldspar and quartz, with some mica. It has resulted from the abrasion
of granite and the allied rocks. Its red color is due to the presence of a large amount of pink
feldspar. The specimen is interesting, as almost the only one in Mr. Marcou's collection, which
he has labelled as from the Tertiary or Quaternary formations. It is also interesting from the fact
that the cementing material — carbonate of lime — is beautifully crystallized, so that the whole
surface of the specimen is covered with brilliant reflecting surfaces, seen only when it is held in
certain positions. Viewed in some directions the crystalline character of the specimen is
invisible, or would not be suspected. This crystallization of the mass enveloping the grains of
sand is like that of the Fontainebleau sandstone.

No. 84. Camp before Cactus Pass. — Mr. Marcou considers this specimen as Quaternary, and
observes, on the label, that it was covered with the lava of a volcano. It is a conglomerate of
rolled masses of pumice-stone and small pebbles and sand, the cementing material being appa-
rently fine volcanic ash, or the fine dust from the abrasion of the pumice. I have found similar
agglomerations under the basaltic lava near Fort Miller, on the San Joaquin, and in the Ter-
tiary or Quaternary deposites of Ocoya creek, California.

No. 85. " Little stones, of which the ants build their mounds, west of the Sierra Madre." —
These little grains or pebbles are very uniform in size, and are, nearly all of them, over one-
eighth of an inch in diameter. Transparent grains of quartz are very numerous, some of them
retaining a part of the planes of crystallization. The remainder of the grains consist chiefly of
carnelian, chalcedony, and hard volcanic rocks. Fragments of granite are also numerous.
These grains are entirely free from sand or dust, and are remarkable for their uniform siza and
beauty.

15 t

114

GEOLOGICAL REPORT

1 THIRTY-FIFTH PAR 1LLEL.

No. 86. Between Zurii and the Colorado Chiquito. — Several beautiful pebbles of agate and
jasper, of different colors, accompanied by specimens of silicified wood. One of tbe pebbles has
a deep red color, and is traversed by seams and veins of white quartz. Many of these intersect
each other in different directions, and produce small faults, one part of the mass being slipped
by the other. This pebble is susceptible of taking a high polish, and plates cut from it by the
lapidary show the veins beautifully.

No. 87. Pinal Lleno, Gila river, 1851. — This is a small stalactite, obtained on the Grila river
by Lieutenant Whipple, in 1851.

Five or six specimens of sandstone, gypsum, and limestone are without labels, and I have
not entered or described them. They do not present anything of interest, and one or two appear
to be fragmentary duplicates.

ORES AND MINERALS.

No. 88. Third canon when descending Bill Williams' fork. — There are several specimens under
this number, consisting of rolled or water- worn masses of an epidotic rock, traversed by veins of
specular iron-ore or Hematite. These veins vary in width from one-quarter to three-quarters of
an inch, and one of the masses, an inch and a half long, consists entirely of the ore, and has
been worn until as round as a pebble. The ore is the micaceous variety, and a fractured surface
presents a brilliant appearance. The scales are radial and plumose, and grouped in rosettes.
The characteristic red streak and powder is obtained when the mineral is scratched or powdered.
This ore is composed of iron and oxygen, containing, in 100 parts, iron 70, oxygen 30. It is a
sesqui-oxide, and crystallizes in rhombohedrons. It is known under a variety of names — as
hematite, specular iron, iron glance, per-oxide of iron, oligiste iron, &c. It occurs chiefly in
the granitic or crystalline rocks. The finest crystallizations are brought from the island of
Elba. The Iron mountain and Pilot Knob, of Missouri, are formed of the same ore. The
specimens in the collection being transported fragments, the exact locality of the parent
mass or vein is not known, but it is probably not far from the point where the specimens were
picked up.

No. 89. Near Picacho mountain. — This is a small crystalline nodule of the same ore as last
described, (No. 88,) but this exhibits the planes of the rhombohedron without any modification.
It is formed of a multitude of crystals, and their points extend outward on all sides. Its com-
position is the same as No. 88 — iron 70, oxygen 30.

No. 90. Pueblo creek. — Grains of massive specular iron disseminated in granite. The ore,
however, forms a very considerable part of the mass, and is very friable. It much resembles
magnetic iron ore, but gives the hematitic streak.

No. 91. Cerbat mountains, Bill Williams' fork. — This is a beautiful specimen of fibrous hema-
tite, with long silky fibres extending from several points or centres. The mass is about three
inches long and one broad, and is pure and free from gangue. The burnishers called blood-
stones, used by jewellers and workers in gold and silver, are made of this variety of hema-
tite, and the specimen in the collection would be suitable for those uses.

No. 92. Copper ore — New Placer mount, near San Pedro, New Mexico. — There are several
specimens of copper ore under this number. The gangue appears to be chiefly massive garnet,
becoming crystalline on the walls of cavities. These crystals are small, but very perfect and
brilliant. They are rhombic dodecahedrons, with all the edges truncated. Green carbonate of
copper coats these crystals, and is disseminated through the mass of the specimen. Blue car-
bonate is also present in some of the fissures, and thin crusts of the silicate are also found.

No. 93. New Placer, San Pedro, New Mexico. — These specimens are fragments of a quartz
vein, and are cellular, porous, and contain cavities lined with crystals. No pyrites or gold can
be detected by the eye or magnifying glass, but a considerable amount of hydrous peroxide of
iron (brown hematite) is present. This is probably derived from the gradual decomposition of
pyrites, which was very probably auriferous. Mr. Marcou has ticketed the specimen as from

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLLECTION,

115

an auriferous vein, but I have not made any examination of the specimen for gold by crushing
and washing or by chemical tests.

No. 94. Canada Hill, near Nevada City. — A fragment of ferruginous quartz, stained by the
decomposition of pyrites, and containing minute grains of gold. The auriferous quartz of
Canada hill is well known in Nevada as a rich source of gold. There are numerous other
quartz veins, or "leads," in that vicinity, but they are not represented in the collection ; this
specimen being the only one of auriferous quartz that I find from California.

No. 95. Pueblo creek. — This, according to the label of Mr. Marcou, is "fer argentifere? en
filon" (vein of argentiferous iron.) It is a small mass of quartz, evidently a part of a vein which
appears to have had the character of a true fissure vein, the quartz having the comb-like struc-
ture so well known in the mining regions of Cornwall. The metalliferous portion is implanted
among the ends of the compressed quartz crystals, in a layer transverse to them, and a second
parallel layer is seen, about one quarter of an inch distant, in the body of the quartz, but which
was at one time on the inner wall or face of the fissure. It thus appears that there have been
two successive depositions of the ore, a layer of quartz having taken place in the interval. That
the inner layer of ore now imbedded in the quartz was once upon its surface is shown conclu-
sively by the fact that it presents a zigzag line, the angles exactly conforming to the angles
and terminations of quartz crystals.

A freshly-fractured surface of the small layer of ore presents a mass of rosettes of beautiful
red color, formed by an aggregation of small plates. They are soft, and easily crushed by the
point of a knife to a red powder resembling that of hematite. It does not give off fumes before
the blow-pipe, and is infusible. A solution in nitric acid does not give any reaction for silver
with hydrochloric acid. The fragment heated by the blow-pipe becomes magnetic, and a reac-
tion for iron is obtained from the nitric acid solution. The mineral is probably hematite.

No. 96. From two miles north of Cactus Pass, Aquarius mountains. — This specimen consists of
quartz, with some feldspar, bearing thin seams and irregular veins of a dark mineral, with a
metallic lustre. This, on being scratched, gives a dark blood-red streak, like hematite. It is
infusible before the blow-pipe in the outer flame, but in the inner it fuses to a black magnetic
globule. It is, therefore, in all probability, hematite, and similar in composition to the speci-
mens previously described.

These specimens of peroxide of iron present very different appearances, and, to an ordinary
observer, Would seem to be entirely different in their chemical characters. Hematite is a com-
mon product of volcanic action, and is found abundantly in the lavas of Vesuvius. It is inter-
esting to note the number of the specimens from different localities, brought in by Mr. Marcou,
while the magnetic iron ore, which in the Appalachian chain is the most common and abundant
crystalline ore, is not represented in the collection.

No. 97. . No label. This specimen probably belongs with some of those

already described, but has either been displaced, or has not had a label. It is, however, of
little consequence, the specimen being chiefly quartz, with some intermingled oxide of iron, and
on one side a stain of carbonate of copper. It somewhat resembles the specimens from New
Placer, (No. 93.)

COAL AND FOSSIL VEGETATION.

No. 98. Bituminous coal, Ojo del Pescado Zuni. — Very considerable interest attaches to this
specimen, from the fact of its being the only organized representative, with a label, of the forma-
tion called Jurassic by Mr. Marcou. He has labelled it as Jurassic — upon what grounds I do
not know ; for the specimen does not appear to me to present any very decisive evidence of its
geological age. It much resembles the Tertiary brown-coals or lignites found on the western
coast. The evidence upon which Mr. Marcou bases his opinion of the Jurassic age of this
coal, was probably presented by its stratigraphical position. He states, on one of the Labels, thai
t occurs between two thick beds of rose-c&lored sandstone.

116

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

The specimen is a flat mass, about three inches square and one thick. It has a lamellar or
stratified structure, and is traversed by cracks parallel with the sides, and which are caused
apparently by the shrinking of the mass. The form is not quite square or rectangular, but is
distinctly rhombic, and the cracks of the mass divide it up into smaller fragments, with the
same angles. The streak or powder is dark-brown, and it makes a brown streak upon paper.
On the surfaces of fracture, parallel with the broad surfaces of the specimen, there are distinct
impressions of vegetation, but it is not possible to decide upon their character. On careful in-
spection of the edges of the specimen, several thin layers, of what at first appear to be grains of
sand, are seen. These grains are the ends of small prismatic bodies, which are compact and
of a drab color. They are striated longitudinally, and break, or cleave, readily in a direction
perpendicular to the longer axis of the prism. These bodies are very probably the spines of
fishes or echinoderms, but they are so imperfect and minute that their true nature cannot be
satisfactorily determined.

When this coal is heated it gives off a strong odor of bitumen, and burns with a white flame,
and but little or no smoke, until the flame ceases, when the smoke is white like that from wood
When it is strongly ignited for a long time in the outer flame of the blow-pipe, it leaves a white
skeleton residue, nearly as large as the original fragment. The edges of this on being strongly
heated fuse to a white glass.

No. 99. Coal creek, Camp No. 12. — This is a fine specimen of Siggillaria, about nine inches
long and four in diameter. The markings of the root are very distinctly preserved on one side,
while the opposite is rough and not characteristic.

No. 100. Camp No. 47, Arroyo Truxillo. — This, according to the label, is fossil wood of the
Upper Trias. It is a silicified fragment of the trunk of a Lepidodendron — a well known plant of
the Carboniferous period. The markings upon the surface are distinct and characteristic.

CATALOGUE

GEOLOGICAL COLLECTION;

I. — ROCKS AND MINERALS.

Description.

Locality.

Granite formant le outre des Rocky mountains

Granite formant le outre des Rocky mountains

Granite k hornblende

Granite a gros grains

Granite a gros grains

Granite de la Sierra Madre

Granite du montagnes rochenses

Granite du montagnes rochenses -

Granite rose

Granite rose formant les montagnes qui courant du nord
au Sud.

Syenite rouge

Gneiss .

Epidote dans le granite

Syenite pyroclase

Granite a hornblende

Granite k gros grains

Metamorphic gneiss

Gneiss porphyroide

Roche quartzo-serpentineuse, metamorphic

Roche quartzo-serpentineuse, metamorphic

Quartzite metamorphiques

Quartzite metamorphiques

Granite .

Granite a hornblende

Hornblende syenite

QuaTtz schistoide

Marble blanc en filon

Syenite et quartzite

Granite a gros grains

Sulfate de bary te

Hornblende rock en dyke

Syenite decomposes, en contact avec les veines de

quartz aurifere.
No label. (Metamorphic rock.)
No label. (Syenite.)

Gneiss porphyroide

Metamorphic sandstone, or gneiss.

Roche metamorphique

Trap en dyke dans le white chalk

Dyke de roches hornblendiques

Syenite a hornblende, en filon 1...

Trap serpentinense

Porphyre en dyke

Porphyre

Basaltic lava

Basaltic lava

Roche volcanique

Canon de Tejeras, near Albuquerque.
Cafion de Tejeras, near Albuquerque.
Pueblo creek.
Pueblo creek.
Pueblo creek.
Agua Frio.

Cafion de San Antonio, avant Tejeras, N. M.
Canon de San Antonio, avant Tejeras, N. M.
Aquarius mountains, camp avant Cactus Pass.
Aquarius mountains, camp avant Cactus Pass.

Somme't de Cactus Pass, Aquarius mount.
Cactus Pass, Aquarius mountains.
Aquarius mount.

Cerbat mountains, Bill Williams' fork.
Bill Williams' fork.

Embouchure de Big Sandy, dans Bill Williams' fork.
Cerbat mountains, sur le Bill Williams' fork.
Pres de 1' embouchure de Bill Williams' fork, dans le Rio
Colorado.

Bill Williams' fork, pres de 1' embouchure.

Bill Williams' fork, pres de 1' embouchure.

Bill Williams' fork.

Bill Williams' fork.

Camp pres du Picacho.

Entre le Rio Colorado et le Mojave riviere.

Rio Colorado au dessous des Mojave villages.

Rio Colorado au dessous au Mojave villages.

Cajon creek.

Big Sandy creek.

Aquarius mount.

Camp 52.

Entre Tuerto and Galistto.
Nevada City, California.

Pres de 1'embouchure de Bill Williams', dans lo Rio Col-
orado.
Pres du Picacho.
Pies de Pueblo creek.
Rio Galisteo, N. M.
Entre Tnerto Galisteo.
Au village de Cineguilla, pres de Santa Fe.
Cafion Tejeras, near Albuquerque.
Dans le volcan de Cerrito, pres de Santa Fc\
Dans le volcan de la Cineguilla pres de Santa Fri.
Cafion de Cineguilla, pres de Santa Fe\
Fin de la Coulin, pies du Pueblo de Ziini.
Leroux spring.

* This list, with but few exceptions, is copied from the labels found with the specimens.

118

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

I. ROCKS AND MINERALS — Continued.

Description.

Locality.

Coiile" de lava basaltique du San Francisco mount-
Lava

Scorie volcanique — -

Pophyre rose

Laves amygdaloid es

Basalte .

Basal te obsidienne -

Trachyte porphyroide

Porphyroid greenstone

Scorie volcanique

Porphyre quartzifire __

Trap

Mountain or Lower Carboniferous limestone

Dolomie ou magnesian limestone

Dolomie ou calcaire magnesien

Dolomie ou magnesian limestone

Dolomie or magnesian limestone, Trias de la Prairie

Dolomie or magnesian limestone au dessus du gypsum ;
Trias moyen.

Sandstone de l'upper Trias ; grave" par les Indiens des
Pueblos.

Variagated marls du Trias

Argile rouge et blanc du Trias

Gre's blanc, gre"s, friable, de l'upper Trias

Fer, Au Sommet du New Red Sandstone ou Trias, pres
du Neocomien.

Gypsum rouge du Trias moyen

Gypsum rouge du Trias moyen

(No label.)

Gypsum cristallise, Trias moyen

Gypsum, Trias moyen

Gypsum blanc, sacbaroide amorphe ; Trias moyen

Gypsum blanc de Trias

Gypsum, Trias moyen

(No label.)

Gypsum blanc sacharoide de Trias moyen

Gypsum blanc et veine de rose amorphe sacharoide,
Trias moyen.

Gypse cristallise pur, veine dans le gypse amorphe, Trias

Gypsum blanc du Trias

Sandstone and conglomerate fourmant le sommet et la

mesa de Cajon Pass .

Roche Tertiare Poudringue, recouvrent par la lava

Little stone, dont se servent les fourniers pour batir ...

Jaspe et agathe, dans le diluvium

Stalactite

Efflorescence, Soda lake

Specular iron, dans une roche epidotique

Cristaux de specular iron

Specular iron, dans le granite

Hematite iron

Sulphuret and silicate of copper.

Filon de quartz aurifere

Quartz aurifere

Fer argentifere

Veine metallifere

(No label.)

Pres de Leroux spring.

Du volcan de San Francisco mountain.

Vennant du volcan eteint de la Sierra de San Francisco.

Aquarius mountains.

Au pied du grand volcan de San Francisco mountain,

pres du Colorado Chiquito.
Near the Picacho.
Camp pres du Picacho.

Troiseme chaine en quittant le Rio Colorado.
Mojave river.

Mesa near Rio Gila (Whipple.)

Mojave river.

Rough and Ready.

Delaware mount.

Au pied du Lano Estacado.

San Antonio.

Rio Colorada Chiquito."

Shady creek, Camp No. 42.

Camp No. 30, pres des mound.

Camp No. 46, aux pieds du Llano Estacado.

Shady river, Camp No. 42 .

Entre le Delaware mount et Beavertown.

Antelope hills, Camp No. 36.

Entre les Camp No. 31 et No. 32.

Au pied du Llano Estacado.
Gypsum creek.

Canadian river.
Comete creek.
Comete creek.

Prairie pres de Gypsum creek.
Gypsum creek.

Grand prairie, Camp No. 30.
Camp No. 30.

Camp No. 30.
San Antonio

Cajon Pass, Sierra Nevada.
Camp 50.

West de la Sierra Madre.
Entre Zuni et le Colorado Chiquito.
Pinal LUno, on Rio Gila, 1851.
Pied du Rio Mojave.

Troisie"me caQon, en descendant Bill Williams' fork,

Camp 62.
Pres du Picacho.
Pueblo creek.

Cerbat mountains, Bill Williams' fork.

New Placer mount, near San Pedro, New Mexico.

New Placer, near San Pedro.

De la veine de Canadian Hill, near Nevada City.

Pueblo creek.

Two miles north of Cactus Pass, Aquarius mountains.

II. FOSSIL- WOOD, FOSSILS AND SHELLS.

Bituminous coal, Jurassique

Sigillaria, (carboniferous sandstone)

Bois fossile de l'upper Trias

No label, but similar to No. 100, and probably Lepido
dendron.

Fossil wood

Ojo del Pescado, Zuni.
Coal creek, Camp No. 112.
Camp 47, Arroyo Truxillo.

Colorado Chiquito.

CATALOGUE OF THE GEOLOGICAL COLLECTION.

n. FOSSIL- WOOD, FOSSILS AND SHELLS — Continued.

119

No.

Description.

Locality.

103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119

H9£

120

121

122

123

123^

124

125

126

127

128
129

130
131

132
133
134
135
136

Bois fossile agatise", trouve's dans le Trias moyen

Bois fossile agatise', trouve's dans le 'Irias moyen

Bois fossile agatise", trouve's dans le Trias moyen

Jaspe au agathe, dans le diluvium

"With the preceding

With the preceding

With the preceding

Bois fossile -

Bois Silicifie"s, trouve dans les gre"s rouge da Trias moyen

Bois fossile, dans le gre"s Jurassique

Bois fossile, dans le Trias

Fossiles du mountain limestone, (Productus pustulosis)

Fossiles du mountain limestone, (Productus semireticulatus).

Fossile du mountain limestone, (Terebralula subtilata)

Fossile du mountain limestone, (Terebratula roissyi)

Fossile du mountain limestone, (T. millipunctata, n. s.)

Fossile du mountain limestone, (Spirifer musebachami?)

Spirifer pilosus, (n. s.)

Fossiles du mountain limestone, (Crinolds)

Fossile du mountain limestone, (Cyathophjllum). '..

Fossiles du carboniferous limestone, (Productus ) . .

Polypier du Lower Carboniferous.

Polypier briozoaire du coal measure, (Fenestella)

Orthis, mountain or carboniferous limestone

Fossiles du Lower Carboniferous

Empreintes et de"bris de fossiles : Ammonites, Inocera-

mus, etc.; white chalk, (several specimens.)
Formation du Llano Estacado, Jurassique inferieur avec

poudringue a la base. (A ferruginous rock with casts

of shells ; probably Tertiary.)
No label. (This resembles Chsetetes.)
Fossiles du Carboniferous limestone. (Coral, but very

obscure.)

Orthoceras

Fragments d'Ammonite de la craie blanche, dans les
gre"s blanc.

Lucina. Terrain Cre"tace"

Gryphsea Tucumcarii, Marcou ; Argilebleu du Jurassique

Gryphsea Pitcheri, Mort. ; Calcaire neocomien

Piece d'os fossile

Ostrea congesta

Pres du Eio Colorado Chiquito.

Pres du Rio Colorado Chiquito.

Pres du Eio Colorado Chiquito.

Entre Zuni et le Colorado Chiquito.

Entre Zuni et le Colorado Chiquito.

Entre Zuni et le Colorado Chiquito.

Entre Zuni et le Colorado Chiquito.

Entre le Rio Puerco, et Alamo, New Mexico.

Pres d' Antelope Hills. Prairie.

Vis-a-vis de la ville d' Albuquerque.

Entre le Rio Colorado Chiquito et le Pueblo de Zufii.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

Village de Pecos.

West of San Francisco mountain.

Rocky mountains.

Pres de Choctaw agency.

Delaware mount, Camp No. 19.

Near Shawneetown.

Three miles north of Galisteo.

Encampment creek.

West de San Francisco mountains.
Pres d'Agua Fria, Sierra Madre.

Entre les Rio Grande et Puerco, pres de Las Lunas, New
Mexico. .

Entre Gold mount et Galisteo, New Mexico.
Pyramide mount, Plaza Larga. Camp No. 50.
Camp No. 31, False Witchita.
Trouve" sur le sol du Trias, a l'ouest de Zuni.
Three miles north of Galisteo, with No. 126.

No.

Marks.

Description.

Locality.

137

54

138

55

139

56

140

57

141

58

142

59

143

60

144

61

145

62

146

63

147

64

148

65

149

66

150

67

151

68

152

69

153

70

154

71

155

72

Unio, 1 valve

Unio

Unio .■

Unio

Unio, 1 valve

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Unio

Planorbis and Physa

Canadian river.
Canadian river.
Coal creek.
Canadian river.
Canadian river.

Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Gaines' creek, affluent of the Canadian.
Pecos river.
Pecos river.

Little river, near Shawneetown.

No. 2.

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES,

BY

JULES MAROOU,

GEOLOGIST AND MINING ENGINEER TO THE EXPEDITION;

WITH

A TRANSLATION BY WILLIAM P. BLAKE.

Note. — This paper is a copy of Mr. Marcou's field-book, and is an exact transcript of the original rough notes as they
were taken while on the road or in camp.

Itineraire Geologique du Fort Smith et Napoleon
(Arkansas) au Rio Colorado de Califomie.

[Original.]

Little Rock, Auk. ,

le 16 Juin, 1853.

Les alluvions du Mississippi forment entiere-
ment les bancs de cette riviere depuis Cairo
jusqu' a Napoleon. Cette alluvion est noire
grisatre et formee de limon ou depot de boue a
deux endroits, Higbland et Memphis. On
voit dessous ce limon un sable jaunatre et
blanchatre tres-fin qui forme les cliffs de la
riviere a ces deux points.

En remontant de Napoleon a Little Rock
sur la riviere Arkansas, on a la meme alluvion
limoneuse que sur les bancs du Mississippi,
seulement, la couleur est jaune rougeatre, et
dessous se trouve d'epaisses assises de sables
jaunatres, ce qui rend le cours de la riviere
tres-serpentineuse. On ne voit aucune pierre,
meme de la grosseur d'une noix, dans tout cette
alluvion. Ce n'est qu' a 1 mille au dessous
16 t

Geological Itinerary from Fort Smith and Na-
poleon (Arkansas) to the River Colorado of
California.

[Translation.]

Little Rock, Ark.,
June 16, 1853.
The alluvial deposites of the Mississippi
form both of its banks from Cairo to Napoleon.
This alluvium is greyish-black, and consists
of slime or mud at two places — Highland and
Memphis. We see under this slime a very fine
whitish and yellowish sand, which forms the
cliffs of the river at these two points.

On going up from Napoleon to Little Rock,
upon the Arkansas river, we find the same slimy
alluvium as upon the shores of the Mississippi ;
only its color is reddish-yellow, and under
it are found thick beds of yellowish sand,
which renders the course of the river very
sinuous. No stones are visible, even of the
size of a nut, in all this alluvium ; and it is
only a mile below Little Rock that we meet

122

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

de Little Rock que Ton eommence a rencontrer
line alluvion avec des petits cailloux quartzeux.

A Little Rock on a des roches schisteuses,
noires, metainorphiques et contournes, avec
un gres et des filons de quartz, ayant une di-
rection E.E.N, a l'O.O.S. Ici commence
aussi des rideaux de collines suivant la meme
direction : ces rideaux ne para^ssent pas eleves
de plus de 100 pieds. Plus liaut que Little
Rock, a 2£ milles sur la rive gauche, on a les
gres carboniferes en couches peu inclinees et
formant des mamelons en ligne, lorsque sur la
rive droite, on a des schistes metamorphiques
redresses et contournes et dont la hauteur
au-dessus de la riviere n'est que 10 a 30 pieds.
On voit a trois ou quatre milles de Little Rock
sur la rive gauche des gres et calcaire houiller
reposant en stratification discordante sur les
schistes metamorphiques. Ce qui fait presumer
q'une partie de ces montagnes est anterieure
a l'epoque des Alleghanies et du carboniferous
groupe.

Cinq ou six milles au-dessus de Little
Rock le pays devient encore plat, avec des al-
luvions sableuses ; cependant la formation car-
bonitere inferieure parait former toute la rive
gauche. Lorsqu'on arrive a Petit Jean mon-
tagnes, on a sur la rive droite une ou deux
lignes de hautes collines ayant des couches de
houille ; ainsi le terrain carbonifere a traverse
la riviere.

Apres Petit Jean, on a encore quelques col-
lines carbonileres coupees quelque fois par des
injections de trap dike, sur la rive droite de la
riviere ; le pays redevient plat et couvert de
sable alluvial ; ainsi a Dardanelles et jusque
pres de Ozark city oil Ton retrouve les collines
de gres et de shistes du lower carboniferous.
Les couches de ces collines sont presque hori-
zontales; il n'y a pas de fossiles dedans.
Apres une douzaine de milles on a de nouveau
la plaine alluviale ; toujours pas de cailloux
dans le sable; a Yan Buren on a des collines
du lower carboniferous et enfin a Fort Smith
on est sur Talluvion assez epaisse de sable et
d'argile rougeatre.

A la riviere Poteau, sur le cote droit, a,
200 ou 300 yards de rembouchure, a l'en-
droit du ferry-boat on a une cliff de sandstone

with an alluvium containing small quartzose
pebbles.

At Little Rock we find black, schistose rnet-
amorphic rocks, contorted, and a sandstone
and quartz veins having a direction E.E.N, and
and W.W.S. Here also commences a range
of hills having the same direction, but which
do not appear to attain an elevation of over
one hundred feet. Two and a half miles
above Little Rock, on the left bank, we find
carboniferous sandstones in slightly-inclined
beds, forming a line of rounded hills ; while
on the right bank we find metamorphlc slates,
upraised and contorted, and the height of
which above the river is but ten to thirty feet.
Three or four miles from Little Rock, on the
left bank of the river, we find sandstones and
carboniferous limestone resting unconformably
upon the metamorphic schists ; from which we
can presume that a part of these mountains is
interior in age to the Alleghanies.

Five or six miles above Little Rock the
country becomes flat again, and we find the
sandy alluvium, while the lower carboniferous
formation appears to form all the left bank.
When we arrive at the Petit Jean mountain
we find, on the right bank, one or two ranges
of high hills containing beds of coal ; the car-
boniferous formation has thus crossed the river.

Beyond Petit Jean mountain we still find
some carboniferous hills, sometimes traversed
by injections of trap in the form of dikes.
On the right bank of the river the country
again becomes flat, and is covered by al-
luvial sand ; so at Dardanelles, and even
near Ozark, we find hills of sandstone and
schists of the lower carboniferous formation.
The strata of these hills are nearly horizontal,
and there are no fossils in them. About twelve
miles further on we still find the alluvial plain,
always having pebbles in the sands. At
Van Buren we find hills of lower carbon-
iferous, and finally, at Fort Smith, we stand
upon a thick alluvial deposite of sands and
reddish clay. »

At the river Poteau, upon the right side,
and two or three hundred yards from its mouth,
at the landing of the ferry-boat, we find a cliff

RESUME AND
•

carbonifere avec des assises de schistes mar- j
neux, noiratres a la partie inferieure. Ces
assises sont horizontales tres-bien stratifiees,
le gres est friable dans les endroits exposes a
l'air, et se laisse travailler difficilement a
cause du grand nombre de fissures qu' il pre-
sente. On ne rencontre pas de fossile. A 12
milles au sud du Fort Smith on a une coucbe
de bouille bitumineuse de 12 pieds d'epaisseur,
avec des traces de fer oxide. En allant au
nord du cote de Washington county, a 40
milles duFort Smith, on s'eleve successivement

par des faibles grading [?] gur le calcaire

carbonifere, ou mountain limestone, qui apparait
alors avec deg Produotus, Belleropkon et Tere-
bratula, caracteristique de cette formation ;
des asgises de coal d'une epaisseur qui varie de
2 a 12 pieds, se trouvent repandues dans
plugieurg deg comteg avoisinant.

Leg Ozarkeg etant entierement carboniferes et
de couches horizontales, sont dug a leg denuda-
tiong du group carbonifere. II n'y a que les
monts, de Little Rock au Hot et Sulf. Springs
qui sont disloques et anterieur au carbonifere.
A 30 milles au sud du Fort Smith, il y a
une montagne isolee de 2,000 pieds de bauteur,
nonfmee Sugar-loaf et qui est reste comme une
colonne, temoin deg immengeg denudations
auxquelg cette partie du payg a ete soumise
aux epoques tertiares et quaterniares. Cette
montagne et. formee entierment du coal meas-
ures, plusiers couches de coal out ete trouvees
a la base et au milieu de cette montagne ; il y
a souvent des aggigeg de gres de 5 a 12 piedg
d'epaisseur, alternat avec deg marneg gchigteux
grig noiratre presentant des traces de charbon
et qu'elques minces assises de calcaires ; les fog-
siles y sout tres-rares, s'il y en a.

A la riviere Poteau, le gres est tres-friable,
par couches de 15 a 20 pouces, gris jaunatre
avec des taches noires, bitumineuges ; et des
noduleg d' oxide de fer ; il a aussi des ripple-
mar hs.

Le 15 Juillet nous quitons le Camp Wil-
gon, pour traverser la riviere Poteau, et nous
nous avancons de 9 miles au Camp No. 2, Ring
house. Nous traversons une espece de marais
avec canes cu bambous forme de terrain d'al-

FIELD NOTES. 123

of carboniferous sandstone, with beds of marly
shales of a blackish color in the lower portions.
These beds are horizontal, and the stratification
is distinct. The sandgtone ig friable in places
exposed to tbe air, and is worked with diffi-
culty on account of the great number of fissures
which it presents. No fossils are visible. At
twelve miles south of Fort Smith, we have a
bed of bituminous coal twelve feet thick, with
traces of oxide of iron. On going to the north
in the direction of Washington county, forty
miles from Fort Smith, we rise insensibly on to
slight hills of the carboniferous formation, or
mountain limestone, which then is found to
contain shells of Productus, Bellerophon, and
Terebratula, characteristic of that formation.
Beds of coal, of a thickness varying from two
to twelve feet, are found spread in several of
the adjoining counties.

The Ozarks being entirely carboniferous, and
in horizontal strata, are due entirely to the
denudation of the carboniferous group. Tbe
hills of Little Rock, at the Hot and Sulphur
Springs, are the only dislocation anterior to
the carboniferoug. At thirty miles south of
Fort Smith, there ig an igolated mountain two
thougand feet in height, called Sugar-loaf, and
which hag remained ag a column, in witness of
the immense denudations to which that part of
the country was submitted in the Tertiary and
Quaternary periods. This mountain is formed
entirely of the coal-measures, and several beds
of coal have been found at its base and in the
middle. There are often beds of sandstone,
from five to twelve feet in thickness, alterna-
ting with schistose marls of a blackish grey
color, presenting traces of coal, and some thin
beds of limegtone. Fossils are very rare, if
indeed there are any.

At the river Poteau, the sandstone is highly
fosgiliferous, with a bed fifteen or twenty incheg
thick, of a yellovvigh grey color, ami contain-
ing bituminoug black spotg and nodules of oxide
of iron ; there are algo gome ripple-marks.

July 15. —We left Camp Wilson and crossed
the river I oteau, and we advanced nine miles
as far as 'Jamp" No. 2, or Camp Ring. We
here crossed a marsh overgrown witli canes
like bamboo, being an alluvial formation over-

124

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

luvion couvrant les coal-measures. Au ruis-
seau du Camp King on voit du gres et des
schistes marneux.

Le 17, je trouve a 1 mile du Camp King,
precisement au bord du bois de la prairie, un
cailloux de quartz de la grosseur du poing,
erratique ; c'est le premier boulder de cette
grosseur que jai trouve depuis Louisville dans
le Kentucky.

19 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 1 au Camp No. 2,
ou Choctaw agency. — Nous traversons un pays
plat, presentant dans quelques ravins un peu
de debris de gres quartzeux tres dur, carbon-
ifere, espece de silex, avec quelque polypiers
en empreintes et Productus ainsi que l'em-
preinte d'un Sigillaria et d'un Equisetum.
Ces fossiles sont cependent assez rares, j'en
recueille 5 ou 6. On voit aussi des schistes
tres noirs et bitumineux indiquant la bouille.
Le puit de M. Ring, qui a 40 pieds de pro-
fondeur a traverse une coucbe de houille de 3
pieds d'epaisseur. Tout ce pays depuis au
dessus de Van Buren est completement sur la
bouille ou upper carboniferous, non erratiques ;
alluvion sableuse, rougeatre et jaune recouv-
rant la surface des rocbes.

On trouve des fragments de gres tres-quartz-

eux, presque de silex [?] avec des Polypes,

Crinoids, Spirifers provenant des denudations
des couches superieures ; ces silex sont dans le
sable et quelquefois ils forment une brecbe fer-
rugifteuse, comme a Choctaw agency, les silex
sont souvent tres ferrugineux eux memes.

26 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 2 au Camp No. 3. —
Nous suivous des praries coupes par des colines
de gres houillers avec schistes. Ces gres sont
releves, la direction suivant de O.O. S. a l'E.E.
nord, les couches plongeant au sud est sous un
angle de 5 ou 6 degres, pas de fossiles, cail-
loux de silex ont disparu. Pas d'erratiques ;
beaucoup de ripple-marlcs sur les assises de
gres.

27 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 3 au Camp No.
4. — Les memes roches que precedement, sans
aucun changement. Les ruisseaux sont pres-
que tous sees, ce qui est un caractere predomi-
nant et constant des regions dont le sol est place
sur les sandstones. De l'agency au Camp No.
4, on est constamment sur des prairies ou des
bosquets de bois ; ces bois sont composes de

lying the coal-measures. At the brook of Camp
Ring, we see limestone and marly schists .

July 17. — I found precisely at the border of
the wood of the prairie an erratic quartz pebble,
of the size of one's fist. It is the first boulder
of that size which I have found since leaving
Louisville, Kentucky.

July 19. — From Camp No. 1 to No. 2, or
Choctaio agency. — We cross a level country,
presenting in some ravines a small amount of
debris of quartzose sandstone, very hard, car-
boniferous, a kind of silex, with some polypiers
in imprints; a Productus; also the imprints
of a Sigillaria and of Equisetum. These
fossils are, however, quite rare ; I gathered
five or six of them. Schists, very black and
bituminous, also occur here, indicating the
coal. The well of Mr. Ring, which is forty
feet in depth, bas crossed a coal-bed three feet
in thickness. All this country, from below
Van Buren, is completely on coal or upper car-
boniferous. There is no drift, but a reddish
and yellow sandy alluvium covers the surface
of the rocks.

We find fragments of a very quartzose sand-
stone, containing Polypi, Crinoids, and Spiri-
ferai, resulting from the denudation of the upper
beds. These silicious fragments are found in
the sand, and they sometimes form a ferrugi-
nous breccia as at Choctaw agency. These frag-
ments are often themselves very ferruginous.

July 26. — From Camp No. 2 to Camp No. 3. —
We traverse prairies diversified by hills of car-
boniferous sandstone, with schists. These sand-
stones are raised, their trend being from W.
W.S. to E.E.N. , the beds dipping to the S.E.
at an angle of five or six degrees. There are no
fossils ; the pebbles of silex have disappeared ;
there are no erratics, but many ripple-marks
are visible on the beds of sandstone.

July 27. — From Camp No. 3 to Camp No.
4. — The formations continue, as before men-
tioned, without material change. The brooks
are almost all dry, which is a predominating
and constant character of the regions of which
the soil rests upon the sandstones. From the
Agency, at Camp No. 4, we are constantly on
prairies or among groves of wood. These

KESUME AND

chene blanc et noir avec du noyer ; vegetation
forestiere pauvre, les vignes tres rares.

28 Juillet. — Sejour au Camp No. 4.

29 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 4 au Camp No.

5. — On suit un chemin qui traverse et longe a
moitie des collines de 100 a 200 pieds de haut-
eur. Ces collines sont formees de gres houillier
avec des schistes gris noiratre, indiquant la
houille. Plusieurs couches de ce gres com-
ix) encent a, devenir tres-ferrugineuses ; quelque
morceaux de pyrites sulfureux sont dissemines,
mais la plus grande partie est de 1' oxide de fer,
ainsi la source d'eau ou nous etablissons le
Camp No. 5 est sulphuro-ferrugineuse, avec un
gout tres marque.

30 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 5 au Camp No.

6. — On suit une vallee courant a l'ouest un
peu sud, entre deux systemes de collines de
gres, assez eleves, surtout au sud. Pas d'allu-
vions, mais des sables, avec absence complete
de boulders. Du creek ou. nous campons, il y
a des couches de gres tres-ferrugineux se de-
composant facilement, brun a la surface ex-
posee a l'air, et rouge oxide a l'interieur ; on
voit aussi des schistes gris noirafcres avec con-
cretions ; mais pas de fossiles. Couches hori-
zontales.

31 Juillet. — Du Camp No. 6 au No. 7, ou
Sans Bois creek. — On continue a suivre la meme
vallee, coupee de temps a autre pars des creeks
qui sont a sees, la ligne de montagnes au sud
est plus elevee que celle au nord. Pas d' allu-
vions avec cailloux ; des gres et schistes, et des
couches de houille qui affluent pres du Camp
No. 7.

1 Aout. — Du No. 7 au No. 8, ou Camp
Cooper. — Nous passons de petites collines de
gres et schiste houilleux, sans fossiles ; allu-
vions de sables sans cailloux. Les lignes de
montagne au sud et au nord ayant la meme
direction ; celles du cote du sud sont plus
elevees que les jours precedents.

2 Aout. — Du No. 8 au No. 9. — On passe
constamment sur les gres carboniferes qui sont
tres-developpes sans fossiles, disloques dans la
direction O.O. S. a E.E. nord, les couches plon-
geant au sud et sous un angle de 20 a 30 dc-

FIELD NOTES. 125

woods are composed of white and black oak,
with butternut trees ; but the vegetation is
poor, and the vines very scarce.

July 28. — Eemained at Camp No. 4.

July 29. — From Camp No. 4 to Camp No.
5. — We followed a road which crosses and
passes along about half way up the slope of
hills, from 100 to 200 feet in height. These
hills are formed of a carboniferous sandstone,
with blackish-grey schists, indicating coal.
Several beds of these sandstones begin to be
very ferruginous, and several masses of pyrites
are disseminated, but the greatest part is of
oxide of iron ; so the spring of water, where
we established the Camp No. 5, is sulphuro-
ferruginous, with a very strong taste.

July 30. — From Camp No. 5 to Camp No. 6. —
We followed a valley running a little south of
west, between two systems of hills of sandstone
somewhat elevated, especially towards the
south. No alluvium, but sand, completely free
from boulders. From the creek in which we
camped there are beds of very ferruginous sand-
stone which readily decompose, with a brown
surface where exposed to the air, the interior
being colored red by oxide of iron. We also
find blackish-grey schists with concretions,
but no fossils. The strata are horizontal.

July 31. — From Camp No. 6 to Camp No. 7,
on Sans Bois creek. — We continue to follow
the same valley, cut here and there by creeks,
which are dry. The line of the mountains in
the south is more elevated than that in the
north. No alluvium with pebbles, but sand-
stones and shales, and coal-beds, which are
nearly level near Camp No. 7.

August 1. — Camp No. 7 to Camp No. 8, or
Camp Cooper. — We passed little hills of car-
boniferous sandstone and shales without fossils ;
also alluvial depositesof sand without pebbles.
The lines of mountains in the south and north
having the same direction ; those of the south
side are more eleva'ed than those of the pre-
ceding days.

August 2. — From Camp No. 8 to No. 9. —
We passed constantly upon carboniferous sand-
stones, which are very well developed, but are
without fossils ; they are dislocated in a direc-
tion W.W.S. to E.E.N. , the beds dipping in

126

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

gres. Plusieurs gros blocs de ces gres per
cent la surface par suite de la decomposition et
paraissent comme des boulders. Pas d' allu-
vions, on trouve plusieurs especes d' Unio, et
d' Anodonta, dans le Sans Bois et ses affluents.
Gros Equiseteum giganteum dans le ruisseau
pres du camp.

3 Aout. — Le Docteur traverse la montagne
et va jusqu' a la Canadian river ; la montagne
est des sandstone des coal measures et des allu-
vions sabloneux jusqu' a la riviere.

4 Aout. — Du No. 9 au No. 10, 17 milles. —
Toujours sur le carboniferous limestone, pas d'
alluvions. Vallees avec montagnes au sud et au
nord, plus elevees au nord qu' au sud. Meme
direction qu' auparavant.

5 Aout. — Sandstone plonge au nord sous
un angle de 15° au second ruisseau, (Gaines'
creek) . Au sommet, au dessus de la plantation,
on decouvre un plateau qui ferme la vallee lon-
gitudinale du Sans Bois. On est eleve a peu
pres 250 pieds au dessus du Fort Smith. Car-
boniferous limestone toujours. Alluvion sableux
avec des cailloux de quartz de la grosseur d'
un oeuf.

Camp No. 11, on voit que l'alluvion a
change et de sableuse est devenue sablo-caillou-
teuse. Je fais une collection de 7 ou 8 species
d' Unio et Anodonta dans Gaines creek, ou
South Fork of the Canadian.

6 Aout. — Du 11 au 12. — Nons traversons 13
milles de mamelons de carboniferous sandstones
avec alternations de schistes, alluvion sableuse
avec quelques cailloux tres-petits de quartz.
Beaucoup de lits de sandstone sont tres-ferru-
gineux. Les assises sout disloquees, meme di-
rection et inclinaison de 10 a 15 degres au nord
et au sud ouest.

7 Aout. — Du No. 12 au No. 13, 5 milles. —
Suivant les couches de corboniferous sandstone
on trouve 5 ou 6 specimens de tiges de Sigilla-
ria, tres-caracteristiques des coal measures.

the south at an angle of from 20 to 30°. Sev-
eral large blocks of these sandstones pierce the
surface, in consequence of the decomposition of
the surrounding portions, and succeed each
other like boulders. No alluvial deposites
seen. Several species of Unio and Anodonta
were found in the Sans Bois and its affluents ;
also a large Equisetum giganteum in a brook
near the camp.

August 3. — The Doctor traversed the mount-
ain, and went as far as the Canadian river.
The mountain ia of sandstone of the coal-
measures, and is bordered by a sandy alluvium
as far as the river.

August 4. — From Camp No. 9 to Camp No.
10, (17 miles.') — We were always on the carbon-
iferous sandstone ; there is no alluvium. Val-
leys and mountains are visible in the south and
in the north ; but more elevated in the north
than in the south. Their direction is the same
as before given.

August 5. — From Camp No. 10 to No. 11. —
Sandstone dips in the north at an angle of 15°
at the second brook, (Gaines' creek.) At the
summit, above the plantation, we discover a
plateau, which ends the longitudinal valley of
the Sans Bois. We are elevated about 250
feet above Fort Smith. Carboniferous sand-
stone prevails, as before. Sandy alluvions,
with pebbles of quartz of the size of an egg.

At Camp No. 11 we find that the alluvium
has changed, and becomes more pebbly. I
made a collection of seven or eight species of
Unio and Anodonta in Gaines' creek, or South
fork of the Canadian.

August 6. — From Camp No. 11 to Camp
No. 12. — We crossed for thirteen miles small
rounded hills of carboniferous sandstone, with
alternations of shales, and sandy alluvium
with very fine quartz pebbles. Many of the
sandstone beds are very ferruginous. The
strata are dislocated in the same direction, to
the northeast and southwest, and the inclina-
tion is from ten to fifteen degrees.

August 7. — From Camp No. 12 to No. 13,
(five miles.) — We followed the beds of carboni-
ferous sandstone, and found five or six speci-
mens of the stalks of Sigillaria, very charac-
teristic of the coal-measures.

RESUMfi AND

8 Aout. — Du No. 13 au No. 14, 9 milles. —
Sur le gres houiller et les schistes marneux
noirs. II y a une montagne ou Ton trouve
que les gres sont disloques. Souvent les gres
sont tres-ferrugineux.

9 Aout. — Du No. 14 au No. 15. — A 3 milles
du No 14 on a une montagne de 100 pieds de
hauteur a traverser qui est mauvaise pour les
wagons. C'est du carboniferous sandstone dis-
loque, inclinaison 60 degres, plongeant a Test
est sud. A Shawnee village on a de nouveau
des alluvions sableuses tres-considerables.
Nous sommes de nouveau dans la vallee du
Canadian river.

10 Aout. — Carboniferous sandstone 6 milles
de Shawnee town, les couches inclinent ouest
ouest sud, sous un angle de 15 degres, argile
grisatre alternant avec le gres. — [?] — Sableuse
tres-fine, avec qulques cailloux de gres et de
dolomie dans le sable alluvial.

11 Aout. — Du No. 16 au No. 17. — Peu apres
notre depart du camp on trouve une couche de
sandstone tres-brechiforme, a petits cailloux
anguleux blanc argileux et de limestone.
Souvent cette breche est ferrugineuse. Pas de
fossiles. A 2 milles en remontant Little
river, on a dans le lit de la riviere du sand-
stone fin et grossier, avec fossiles du Lower Car-
boniferous, tels que Bellerophon, Crinoids, Pro-
ductus and bivalves. Je trouve les memes
fossiles dans le creek au Camp No. 17, ainsi nous
sommes sortis de la region des coal measures
pour le lower carboniferous, entre Shawnee
valley et Shawnee town.

14 Aout. — Du No. 17 au No. 18. — On passe la
plaine pour avoir a sa droite un rideau de pet-
ites collines qui separent du Canadian river les
eaux de Red river ; ces collines de gres car-
bonifere ne s'elevent que de 50 a 70 pieds.
On a dans les creeks des couches de sand-
stone avec breche siliceuse et ferrugineuse ou
poudingiforme de gres blanc jaunatre. Pas
de fossiles. L'alluvion formee de tres-petits
cailloux de silex carbonifere avec quantite de
sables blancs.

15 Aout. — Du No. 18 No 19 au. — Orl suit

FIELD NOTES. 127

August 8. — From Camp No. 13 to Camp No.

14, {nine miles.) — "We were upon carboniferous
sandstone and black marly shales. We found
a mountain where the sandstones were dislo-
cated, and they are often very ferruginous.

August 9. — From Camp No. 14 to Camp No.

15. — At three miles from Camp No. 14, we
cross a mountain one hundred feet high, which
is very bad for wagons. It is of dislocated
carboniferous sandstone, with an inclination
of fifteen degrees E.E.S. At Shawnee village
we again find very considerable sandy allu-
vions. We are still in the valley of the Cana-
dian river.

August 10. — From Camp No. 15 to Camp
No. 16. — Carboniferous sandstone appears at
six miles from Shawnee village ; the beds in-
cline W.W.S. at an angle of fifteen degrees;
greyish clays alternate with the sandstone.

Sandy [?] very fine, with some pebbles of

sandstone and dolomite, are found in the allu-
vial sand.

August 11. — From Camp No. 16 to No.
17. — A short time after our departure from
the camp we found a bed of brecciated sand-
stone, containing little angular pebbles of
white clay and limestone. This breccia is
often ferruginous. There are no fossils. On
going two miles up Little river we find in its
bed a fine and a coarse sandstone with fossils,
of the lower carboniferous, such as Bellerophon,
Crinoids, Productus, and bivalves. I found
the same fossils in the creek at the Camp No.
17, so we left the region of the coal-measures
for that of the lower carboniferous, between
Shawnee valley and Shawnee village.

August 14. — From Camp No. 17 to Camp
No. 18. — "We passed the plain and found on
our right a range of small hills, which sepa-
rate between the waters of the Canadian and
the Red river. These hills of carboniferous
sandstone have a height of from only fifty to
seventy feet. We find in the creeks beds of
sandstone with silicious and ferruginous brec-
cias or conglomerates of yellowish white sand-
stone without fossils. The alluvium is formed
of small pebbles of carboniferous silex, with a
quantity of white sand.

ugust 15. —From Camp No. 18 to Camp

128

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

d'abord la plaine avec sandstone et sables,
pres du pied du Delaware mont on a des cal-
caires tres developpes qui forment presque
en entier la montage avec quelques alterna-
tions de gres. Les calcs disloques ; ils plongent
au nord. Pres du Camp No. 19 apparait une
mountain limestone ou lower carboniferous ; on
trouve dedans des tiges de Crinoids, et au
camp je trouve une coucbe sablo-siliceuse de 4
ou 5 pouces d'epaisseur qui est remplie de Sep-
taria, Terebratula et un Polypier. Couleur gris
blanchatre, dure, a cassure sub-conchoidale,
bien strafiee, se desagregeant facilement a Fair.
L' alluvion est moins sableuse et le lit des tor-
rents est rempli de fragments calcaires de la
grosseur d'une noisette a celle de la tete.
Direction du Delaware mountain sud sud ouest
ou 30° a l'ouest au nord nord est.

16 Aout. — Du No. 19 au No. 20. — On passe
constamment des collines de limestone et
quelque couches de sandstone le tout d'une
epaisseur de 5 a 600 pieds, avec peu ou pas de
fossiles, car je ne puis en voir ; a moitie chemin,
on passe pres d'un creek ou il y a un pou-
dingue calcaire, espece de naglefliie forme des
debris des roches environnantes. On remarque
un sandstone carbonifere a grain assez grossier
et facilement decomposable ; un creek a 5 milles
avant le camp en est rempli exclusivement.

Au Camp No. 19 on a des argiles rouges et
bleues assez dures avec sandstone brechiforme

et quelques fragments de dolomie ;

[?] qui indiquent que les gypses ne sont pas
loin de nous.

17 Aout.—Du No. 20 au No. 21.— On suit
une plaine un peu ravinee et ou Ton ne voit
que de l'argile blanche du superieur gypsum et
une coucbe de gres, tres dure, a grains gros-
siers, avec feldspath. L'alluvion est formee
de cailloux.de quartz de la grosseur d'un oeuf
de pigeon.

22 Aout.—Du No. 21 au No. 22.— On suit
constamment l'argile rouge souvent remaniee
de a, 3 pieds a la partie superieure et alors
melee de quelques cailloux de quartz roules,
gros comme le poing au-dessous de cet argile

No. 19. — We at first followed the plain with
sandstone and sands ; then arriving at the foot
of Delaware mountain, we find limestones very
well developed, of which the mountain is al-
most wholly formed, with some alternations of
sandstone. The limestone is upheaved, and
at Camp No. 19, dips towards the north. It
appears to be mountain limestone or lower car-
boniferous ; it contains stalks of Crinoids, and
at the Camp I found a bed of silicious sand
four or five inches in thickness, which is filled
with Septaria, Terebrahdo3, and a Polyp. The
color of the limestone is whitish-grey ; it is
very hard and breaks with a sub-conchoidal
fracture ; is very regularly stratified and sepa-
rates readily where exposed to the air. The
alluvium is less sandy, and the beds of the tor-
rents are filled with fragments of limestone,
from the size of a nut to that of the head.

The direction of Delaware mountain is S.S.
W. (or 30 degrees west) to N.N.E.

August 16. — From Camp No. 19 to Camp
No. 20. — We constantly passed limestone hills,
with some beds of sandstone, the whole series
having a thickness of from 500 to 600 feet, but
with few or no fossils, for none were seen.
Half-way, we passed near a creek where there
is a calcareous conglomerate, a species of nagle-
fliie, formed from the wrecks of the surround-
ing rocks. We met with a carboniferous sand-
stone, coarse-grained, and easily decomposed ;
a creek five miles distant from our camp is com-
pletely filled with this rock.

At the Camp No. 19, we found red and blue
clays, pretty hard, with a brecciated sandstone.

Some fragments of dolomite ; which

indicate that the gypsum formation is not far
from us.

August 17. — From Camp No. 20 to Camp
No. 21. — We followed a plain traversed by
some creeks, and saw only white clays above
gypsum, and a bed of very hard sandstone,
with coarse grains, and somewhat feldspathic.
The alluvium is formed of quartz pebbles of
the size of a pigeon's egg.

August 22. — From Camp No. 21 to Camp
No. 22. — We constantly followed red clay,
often reassorted or washed in the upper por-
tions for two or three feet in depth, and then
mixed with some rolled quartz pebbles as large

RESUME AND

rouge, couleur de vin un peu sableux, se trouve
un schiste sableux, blanc etquelques concretions
blanches dans Fargile rouge. Les couches
paraissent horizontales, ou a peu pres. La
topographie du pays est une prairie ravinee de
30 a 80 pieds par des ruisseaux presque tous
a sees et nous suivons le dos d'ane de la ligne
de partage des eaux entre Walnut et Canadian
et Washita rivers.

23 Aout.—Du No. 22 au No. 23.— On suit
les memes argiles, sableuses, rouges, couleur
de vin au sommet d'un des mamelons, ces
argiles rouges sont couronnees par un calcaire
sableux, rouge, brechiform passant a un gres
rougeatre, bien stratifie, les couches plongeant
a l'ouest seul, sous un angle de 5 a 10 de-
gres. Pas d' alluvions. Des efflorescences alumi-
neuses et saliferes dans une marne. Au camp
ces marnes deviennent tellement sableuses que
e'est un veritable gres rouge, avec un gres gris
alternant.

24 Aout.—Du No. 23 au No. 24.— On suit
constamrnent l'argile rouge qui est un peu
moins sableuse que precedemment, aussi on
traverse des ruisseaux qui ont de l'eau courante.
Pas d' alluvion.

25 Aout. — Du No. 24 au No. 25.— On voit
sans interruption les argiles rouges sableuses,
passant dans gres rouges tres-fins, et calcaire
silicieux rouge. Pas d'alluvion.

2QAout. — DuNo. 25 auNo. 26. — Les argiles
rouges avec gres de meme couleur sont tou-
jours en vue. A moitie chemin on a des allu-
vions tres sableuses avec cailloux de quartz,
serpentine, trap, agate, jaspe variant de la
grosseur d'une noissette a celle du poing toutes
tres-roulees, epaisseur de cette alluvion de 1
a 1^ pied. Le sable est blanc ; on y trouve
deux ou trois fragments de gypse.

27 Aout.—Du No. 26 au No. 27 —On a
constamrnent les marnes rouges, mais on com-
mence de plus a y trouver quelques fragments
de gypse, blanc ros tre amorphe, et un peu
crystallin, il est sous forme de gateau ou bis-
cuit. La meme alluvion qu' hier.

28 Aout.—Du No. 27 au No. 28— On a

17 t

FIELD NOTES. 129

as the fist. Under this red clay, of a wine-
color, and somewhat sandy, we find white ar-
gillaceous and arenaceous shales, and in the red
clay some white concretions. The beds appear
to be horizontal, or nearly so. The topogra-
phy of the country is a prairie, cut by ravines
from twenty to eighty feet deep. The courses
of brooks now nearly all dry. We followed
the water-shed or dividing ridge between the
Walnut and Canadian and Washita rivers.

August 23. — From Camp No. 22 to Camp
No. 23. — We followed the same red or wine-
colored sandy clays. At the summit of one
of the small knolls these red clays are crowned
by a sandy, red, brecciated limestone, passing
into a reddish-grey sandstone, well stratified,
and dipping to the sotithwest at an angle of
from five to ten degrees. No alluvial deposites.
Some efflorescences of salt and alum were found
in the marls. At camp these marls became so
sandy that they form a true red sandstone,
with an alternation of grey.

August 24. — From Camp No. 23 to Camp
No. 24. — We constantly follow the red clay,
which is a little less sandy than before. We
cross brooks with running water. No allu-
vium.

August 25. — From Camp No: 24 to Camp
No. 25. — We followed without interruption
the red and sandy clays, passing into a very
fine red sandstone, and into a red silicious
limestone. No alluvium.

August 26. — From Camp No. 25 to. Camp
No. 26. — Eed clays, with sandstone of the same
color, are always in view. Half-way we find a
very sandy alluvium, with pebbles of quartz,
serpentine, trap, agate, and jasper, varying
from the size of a nut to that of the fist, all of
them much rounded and water- worn. The
thickness of this alluvium is from one to one
and a half feet. The sand is white. We found
fragments of gypsum.

August 27. — From Camp No. 26 to C
No. 27.- — We constantly find red marls, but
fragments of gypsum make their appearance ;
they are of a rosy-white color ; amorphous
and occasionally somewhat crystalline, and
having a form like a cake or biscuit. Allu-
vium the same as yesterday.

August 28. — From Camp No. 27 to Camp

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

130

d'abord des marnes rouges qui deviennent de
plus en plus sableuses et au Camp 28 on a un
gres rouge tres fin, se desagregeant facilement
et alors a l'etat de sable rouge un peu argilleux.
Les couches de gres plongent au sud sous un
angle de 10 degres et la direction est ouest, est.

29 Aout. — Du No. 28 au No. 29, ou Denuda-
tion mountain. — Nous suivons les memes gres
argilleux, rouges, tres-fins; les assises sont
borizontales, on voit de beaux exemples de
denudations par l'eau. Le 1° exemple pres de
Spring creek est forme de 8 ou 10 cones,
ayant 1 0 pieds de hauteur ; dont M. Campbell
me donna un dessin. Ensuite a Rock Mary
8 ou 10 grands cones tionques, au sommet,
ayant de 60 a 100 pieds de hauteur. Les
assises en sont horizontales ; c'est du gres rouge
qui domine, a epaisse stratification; avec les
alternations de schistes rouges, plus argilleux,
se levant par feuillet, avec deux ou trois cou-
ches a la partie superieure de calcaire siliceux,
gris blanchatre tres dur et qui a preserve et
forme ces natural mounds.

Pres de Camp 29, il y a un de ces mounds
avec des colonnes de gres, montrant la stratifi-
cation. Ces gres rouges sont tres-epais, pres
de 150 pieds e.t je commence a soupconner que
depuis apres Delaware mountain, nous som-
mes dans le New Red au lieu du lower car-
boniferous. Pas d' alluvium caillouteux; une
plaine parfaite.

30 Aout. — Au Camp No. 30. — Section a, Test
du camp, a, 20 pas:

Dolomie argileuse 6 pieds.

Gypsum 25 "

Gres, schiste argileux et argile rouge 10 "

On a d'abord passe pendant 1 miles sur
des gres argileux rouges, puis ensuite sur du
gypse blanc, qui est superpose au gres. Ce
gypse blanc est amorphe avec quelques vein-
ules crystallissees ; il y a avec des rubans roses ;
les couches sont horizontales ; le gypse a 25 a
30 pieds d'epaisseur. Dans plusieurs endroits
oii nous passons le gypse est decompose et
forme des cavernes en zig-zag. L'alluvion est
du sable rouge, avec quelques cailloux de quartz.
Au camp No. 30 on a des couches d'une dolo-

No. 28. — We first find red marls, which be-
come more and more sandy, and at Camp No.
28 we find a very fine red sandstone decompos-
ing readily into a red sand somewhat argilla-
ceous. The sandstone beds dip to the south
at an angle of ten degrees, and the trend is
east and west.

August 29. — From Camp No. 28 to Camp
No. 29, or Denudation mountain. — We followed
the same very fine, red, argillaceous sandstone.
The strata are horizontal, and beautiful exhi-
bitions of denudations by water are seen. The
first example near Spring creek is composed of
from eight to ten cones, having a height of
about ten feet, of which Mr. Campbell made
me a drawing. Afterwards, at Eock Mary,
we saw eight or ten great cones truncated at the
summit, and being from sixty to one hundred
feet in elevation. The strata are horizontal,
and thick strata of red sandstone predominate
with alternations of red shales, more argilla-
ceous and separating in thin leaves. Two or
three beds of silicious limestone occur at the
upper part, of a whitish grey color, very hard,
and which have preserved the lower strata from
denudation ; forming natural mounds.

Near Camp No. 29, there are similar mounds
with columns of sandstone showing stratifica-
tion. These red sandstones are very thick,
nearly one hundred and fifty feet, and I com-
mence to suspect that since leaving Delaware
mountain we are on the New Eed sandstone
instead of the lower carboniferous. No pebbly
alluvium-, a perfect plain.

August 30. — At Camp No. 30. — Twenty
steps east of the Camp I find the following
section in the bank of the creek :

Argillaceous dolomite 6 feet.

White gypsum 25 "

Sandstone and argillaceous shales and red

clay. 10 "

The latter is at the level of the creek.

We passed for seven miles upon red argilla-
ceous sandstones, and afterwards upon white
gypsum, which is superposed upon sandstone.
This white gypsum is amorphous, with some
crystallized veins and rose-colored belts. The
beds are horizontal, and the gypsum is from
twenty-five to thirty feet thick. In several
places where we passed the gypsum is decom-

RESUME AND

mie argileuse, un peu caverneuse, rougeatre,
grise lorsqu' elle est exposee a, l'air.

31 Aout. — Legypse plonge au nord, sous un
angle de 15° pres du Camp No. 31. Le gypse
apparait en plusieurs endroits, entre les camps
30 et 31 ; mais les gres et argiles rouges domi-
nent ; ainsi a Gypsum creek, Bear creek ;
mais a Comete creek le gypse parait plus puis-
sant. Pres du Camp No. 31 on a une alluvion
caillouteuse de quartz, carbonate of lime, silex,
jaspe, gneiss et quelque fragments roules

Ostrea, cretacee, provenant de la vallee de
Washita d'ou Ton peut conclure que nous
sommes dans Washita ou Wishita vallee. On
voit plus au sud est a 35 milles, les Wishita
mountains.

• 1 Septembre. — A 2 miles ouest sud du Camp
No. 31, on a au sommet et a moitie quelques
fois des collines de gres rouges et argiles rou-
ges, trois ou quartre couches brisees, et

[?] disseminees ca et la ; comme des ruines
sont formees d'une calcaire lumachelle du Neo-
comien ; cette lumachelle est formee des debris
d'Ostrea aquila ou couloni? ou une variete car
elle est plus petite ; on peut recueillir une quan-
tite de ces Ostrea en bon etat de preservation ;
je trouve aussi une remplisse de petit Pecten
quinque-costatus et un debris de Terebratula.
Avant la lumachelle en contact avec le gres
argilleux rouge du Trias, il y a gres calcaire
blanc grisatre, qui passe a un calcaire blanc

un peu oolitique [? ] puis la lumachelle

d' Ostrea; cette couche de passage a seulement
1 pied d'epaisseur. Les 4 couches de lumachelle
ont 2 pieds, a 1' exception de ces petits points
Neocomien, tout le reste de la marche jusqu'au
Camp No. 32, est sur le New Bed sandstone,
argileux, L' alluvion est du sable rouge avec
quelques cailloux de quartz et du fer hematite.
Dans le neio red, pres du Neocomien, on a une
couche calcaire, tres ferrugineuse.

2 Septembre. — Du No. 32 au No. 33. — On a
constamment le gres argilleux rouge, avec

FIELD NOTES. 131

posed and forms zig-zag caverns. The allu-
vium is red sand with some pebbles of quartz.
At' Camp 30, we have beds of argillaceous
dolomite, somewhat cavernous ; reddish, and
when exposed to the air, grey.

August 31. — The bed of gypsum dips to the
north at an angle of fifteen degrees near Camp
31. The gypsum appears in several places
between Camps 30 and 31, but the red sand-
stone and clays predominate; so, also, at
Gypsuin and Bear creeks, but at Comet creek
the gypsum is more abundant. Near Camp
31, we have an alluvium composed of pebbles
of quartz, carbonate of lime, silex, jasper,
gneiss, and some rolled fragments of Ostrea,
cretaceous, coming from the valley of the
Washita, whence we can conclude that we are
in the valley of the Washita or Witchita. We
see further towards the southeast the Witchita
mountains.

September 1. — From Camp No. 31 to Camp
No. 32. — About two miles southwest of Camp
No. 31 we find, at the summit and sometimes
half way up the hills, red sandstone and clays
in three or four broken beds, with crinoids dis-
seminated here and there as if the ruins were
formed of a lumachelle limestone of Neoco-
mien age. This lumachelle is formed by the
fragments of Ostrea aquila or couloni, or a
variety, for it is smaller. It is possible to
gather a quantity of this Ostrea in a good state
of preservation. I found, also, many small
shells of Pecten quinque-costatus and a debris
of Terebratula. Before coming to the luma-
chelle, which is in contact with the red argil-
laceous sandstone of the Trias, there is a grey-
ish-white calcareous sandstone, which passes to

a white limestone slightly oolitic, [?] then

the lumachelle of Ostrea. This bed of transition
is only one foot thick ; the four beds of luma-
chelle are two feet. With the exception of
these little points of Neocomian age, all the
rest of the route as far as Camp No. 32 is on
the New Red argillaceous sandstone. The al-
luvion is of red sand, with some pebbles of
quartz and some hematite iron-ore. In the
New Red, near the Neocomien, we find a very
ferruginous bed of limestone.

September 2. — From Camp No. 32 to Camp
No. 33. — We constantly find red argillaceous

132

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

beaucoup de gypse Wane intercalle, et de la
dolomie argileuse rougeatre. Les ruisseaux
sont charges de substances magnesiennes qui
donnet un gout tres-prononce a l'eau. Allu-
vion comme le jour precedent.

3 Septembre.—Du No. 33 au No. 31, 21
milles. — On suit d'abord des gres et argiles
rouges qui deviennent ensuite tres-gypseuses ;
le gypse est blanc avec quelque veines rose et
gris ; les couches ont d'un a 20 pieds ; au des-
sous se trouve la dolomie argileuse. A moitie
chemin entre les deux camps on a une grande
quantite de petites collines procedant de denu-
dations ou de debris de diluvium forme en
monticules ; on voit ces monticules dans toutes
les directions ou Ton regarde. L'alluvion
devient ici puissant, et est forme de cailloux
plus gros, quartz, granite, de la grosseur
d'une gourde, fer erratique, il y a du sable
blanc souvent d'une epaisseur de 15 pied, et dur.

On traverse la ligne de partage des eaux de
Canadian et Washita et au Camp No. 34, on
a un peu de gypse fibreux, cristallise par des
veines de 3 a 4 polices dans le gres rouge. A
4 milles du Camp No. 33, on trouve les debris
d'arbre fossile avec branches a l'etat silicifie ;
j'en prends un specimen, il est sur le sol de
l'argile rouge.

4 Septembre. — Du 34 au No. 35, 12 miles.
On a sur le bord de la riviere Candian les as-
sises de gres rouges, friables tres developpes
avec du gypse blanc, amorphe, et quelque cris-
taux. Plusieurs monticules avant d'arriver a,
la riviere sont formes de cailloux d' alluvion,
comme le jour precedent. Mais pres de la
riviere on a seulement du sable blanc et rouge,
sans cailloux. II y a sur la boue seche du lit
de la riviere, des efflorescences de sel et de
magnesie. Au Camp No. 35 on a encore du
gres rouge, et un peu de gypse blanc au bord
du creek. On voit le gypse blanc s'etendant
a 1' autre cote de la riviere Canadian vers le
nord.

6 Septembre. — A 4 miles du camp nous pas-
sons Antelope Hills, formees de gres friable,
blanc grisatre, incruste par du carbonate de
chaux ; quelques couches superieures etant en-
tierement calcaire blanc un peu oolitique ; as-
sises horizontals, stratification distincte en

sandstone, containing intercalations of much
white gypsum, and of reddish argillaceous do-
lomite. The brooks are charged with magne-
sian substances, which give a very strong taste
to the water. Alluvium, as on the preceding
day.

September 3. — From Camp No. 33 to Camp
No. 34, (21 miles.) — We at first followed the
sandstones and red clays, which became very
gypseous. The gypsum is white, with some
rose-colored and grey veins ; the beds are from
one to twenty feet thick, and the argillaceous
dolomite is found below. Half way between
the two camps we find numerous little hills
proceeding from the denudation or wrecks of
diluvium ; we see little hills in every direction.
The alluvium here becomes very thick, and is
formed of larger pebbles of quartz and granite,
of the size of a gourd. There are also erratic
masses of iron ore, and accumulations of white
sand, often fifteen feet thick, and hard.

We cross the dividing line of the Canadian
and Washita rivers, and at Camp No. 34 we
find a little fibrous gypsum, crystallized in
little veins, three or four inches thick, in the
red sandstone. Four miles from Camp No.
33 we found the debris of a fossil-tree with
branches completely silicified. I procured spe-
cimens. It is on the red clay.

September 4. — From Camp No. 34 to Camp
No. 35, (12 miles.) — We find upon the borders
of the Canadian river strata of red sandstone,
friable, and striped by white amorphous gyp-
sum, with some crystals. Several little hills,
before we arrive at the river, are formed of
alluvial pebbles, as on the preceding day ; but
near the river we have only white and red sand,
without pebbles. These are upon the dry mud
of the river bed : efflorescences of salt and mag-
nesia. At Camp 35 we still find red sandstone
and a little white gypsum at the border of the
creek. We see the white gypsum extending
on the other side of the Canadian river, towards
the north.

September 6. — From Camp No. 35 to Camp
No. 36. — Four miles beyond the camp we pass
the Antelope Hills, composed of friable sand-
stone of a dirty greyish-white color, incrusted
with carbonate of lime, some of the upper beds
being entirely of white limestone, a little ooli-

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

133

grand ; decomposition tres active, et formant
des trous de toutes formes. Pas de fossiles.
Je trouve plusieurs cailloux roule"s de scorie vol-
canique de la grosseur du poing et de la tete.
Tout le reste du chemin jusqu'au Camp No.
36, est du sable blanc et grisatre et quelque
cailloux d' alluvion.

7 Septembre. — Sables blanc grisatre comme
sol, et alluvion avec quelque petits cailloux de
quartz. Gres blanc comme & Antelope bills
dans les ravins. Natural mounds a, notre
gaucbe, et sables blancs, sur une surface assez
etendue du cote oppose de la Canadian 18f
miles.

8 Septembre. — Du No. 37 au No. 38. — On
a a, droit et a gaucbe le gres blanc et les allu-
vions du Kocky mountains. Diluvium de la
grosseur d'une noisette a celle du poing avec
quelque cailloux de la grosseur de la tete, de
gres blanc et calcaire blanc environnant. Nous
avons suivi la riviere, mais a, notre Camp 38, k
droite et a gaucbe de la Canadian on a le
commencement du Llano, espece de plateau
avec quelques montagnes plates isolees comme
avant garde. De meme que l'Albe du Wir-
temburg pres de Hendinger et Balenguen.

9 Septembre. — Du No. 38 au No. 39. — On
voit le long des bords du bassin de la riviere,
le gres blanc, plus on moins dur blanc ou
jaunatre, borizontal. Diluvium nombreux.
Les cailloux de la grosseur d'une gourde de-
viennent plus mombreux. Scories volcaniques
erratiques. Du Camp No. 9 vis-a-vis de la
riviere on voit un second gradin de Llano.

10 Septembre. — Du No. 39 au No. 40. —

Meme cbose que bier [?] ; a moitie

cbemin, il y a un bluff du 30 pieds au-dessus
du bassin de la riviere qui est du gres rouge
du Trias. Le Llano que nous avons a notre
droite se recule de la riviere pour aller a 7 ou
8 miles plus au nord ; mais on l'apercoit
toujours dans le lointain. Pres de Camp No.
40 on a dans le diluvium des coucbes de sable
passant a un gres tres-friable, renfermant les
cailloux de diluvium des Kocky mountains.

tic. Tbe strata are borizontal, and are decom-
posing rapidly, forming boles or cavities of all
shapes ; no fossils were found. I found sev-
eral rolled masses of volcanic scoriae of tbe
size of tbe fist and of tbe bead. Tbe remainder
of tbe road to Camp 36 is of wbite and greyisb
sand, with some alluvial pebbles.

September 7. — From Camp No. 36 to Camp
No. 37, (18f miles.) — Greyisb- wbite sand,
like soil and alluvium, containing some small
quartz pebbles. White sandstone in the ra-
vines, as at the Antelope Hills. Natural
mounds at our left, and white sand, upon a
somewhat extended surface, on the side oppo-
site the Canadian river.

September 8. — From Camp No. 37 to Camp
No. 38. — We have white sandstone on the
right and left, arid the alluvium of tbe Rocky
mountains. Diluvium from the size of a hazel-
nut to that of the fist, with some masses as
large as the head, composed of white sandstone
and limestone, is found about us. We have
followed the river ; but at our Camp 38, on the
right and left of the Canadian, we have the
commencement of the Llano, a sort of plateau,
with some flat, isolated mountains, as an ad-
vanced guard, similar to the "Alb" of Wir-
temburg, near Hedinger and Balenguen.

September 9. — From Camp No. 38 to Camp
No. 39. — We see along the borders of the river
white sandstone, more or less hard, white or
yellowish, and horizontal. Diluvium abund-
ant ; the pebbles, as large as a gourd, become
more numerous, and volcanic scoriae is also
present. From Camp No. 39, opposite the
river, we saw a second step or flat summit of
the Llano.

September 10. — From Camp No. 39 to Camp
No. 40. — We find the rocks the same as yester-
day, except [?] ; at about half-way, there

is a bluff thirty feet high above the bed of the
river, which is of grey sandstone of Triassic
age. The Llano, which we have on our right,
withdraws from the river and rises seven or
eight miles further north, but it is always
visible in the distance. Near Camp No. 40,
we find in tbe diluvium beds of sand passing
into a very friable sandstone, and containing
the pebbles of the diluvium of tbe Rooky
mountains.

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

1 Septembre. — Du No. 40 au No. 41. — On
j le diluvium E. M. avec des cailloux plus
gros et des blocs de dolomie ou mieux calcaire
magnesien du Trias environnant. Beaucoup
de sables blancs tout le long de la riviere.
A droite et a gauche on voit le New Bed sand-
stone ou Trias, avec quelque veines de gypse
et un banc de 3 ou 4 pieds en bauteur de Dolo-
mie blanche, caverneuse ou • [?] avec

couches rosalres comme a Salins ; des argiles
rouges se trouvent au-dessous et au-dessus de
ce banc de dolomie. Deux ou 3 milles avant
d'arriver au Camp 41, on voit au milieu d'un
grand nombre de monticules de diluvium cail-
loux, et couvert de vegetation, un monticule
conique avec une grande quantite de blocs de
dolomie ; cela provenant du sommet.

September 11. — From Camp No. 40 to Camp
No. 41. — We see the diluvium of the Rocky
mountains, with larger pebbles and blocks of
dolomite or magnesian limestone of the sur-
rounding Trias. Abundance of white sand
borders the river on the right and left. We
see the New Red sandstone or Trias, with some
veins of gypsum and a bank of white dolomite
three or four feet high, and caverDous or

[?] with rosy-colored beds as at Salins.

The red clays are found below and above this
bed of dolomite. Two or three miles before
reaching Camp No. 41, we see, in the midst of
a great number of hillocks of sandy diluvium
covered with vegetation, a conical hillock, the
sides of which are strewn with a large quantity
of blocks of dolomite which have fallen away
from tbe summit.

a. Diluvium, b. Red marl. c. Dolomite, d. Red marl.

12 Septembre. — Du No. 41 au No. 42. — On
a a peu de distance du Camp No. 41, dans les
bluffs qui dominent la route, des bancs de
gypse de \ a 1 pieds d'epaisseur, et les marnes
rouges etun peuvertes en places sont saliferes.
II y a des trous d'eau tres saumatre et magne-
sienne, insupportable au gout. On monte de
la vallee de la Canadian au sommet du Llano,
passant a des schistes sableux rouges et epais-
ses avec de dolomie, 3 on 5 pieds. Diluvium
de Rocky mountains nombreux et un peu gros.

13 Septembre. — Au No. 42 ou. nous sejour-
nons on a un bel exemple de dolomie du Trias
des prairies avec marnes rouges et vertes et
gypse blanc, amorphe.

Dolomite
Red marl
Red sandstone
Red marl

September 12. — From Camp No. 41 to Camp
No. 42. — At a short distance from Camp No.
41, in the bluffs which overhang the route, are
beds of gypsum from one-half to one foot in
thickness, and the marls, which are red and
in some places green, are saliferous. There
are also holes filled with very brackish and
magnesian water, which is insupportable to
the taste. We ascended from the valley of
the Canadian river to the summit of the Llano,
and found the beds of red marls turning into
red sandy shales, and strata of dolomite from
three to five feet thick. The diluvium from
the Rocky mountains is abundant and coarse.

September 13. — At No. 42, where we rested,
we found a beautiful exhibition of the dolomite
of the Trias of the prairies, with red and green
marls and white amorphous gypsum.

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

135

14 Septembre. — Du No. 42 au No. 43. — On j
a le diluvium des Rocky mountains avec sable j
blanc, et des cliffs dans les creeks de white sand- J
stone, un peu rose, avec calcaire blanchatre.
Au Camp No. 43, ou Rio Bonito, on a un
grand developpement de ce gres, tres-friable,
rose et blanc avec concretions calcaires et
coucbes calcaire blanc. Pas de fossiles.

15 Septembre. — A 4 miles du Camp No. 43
on a des monticules de marnes sableuses rouges
avec une couche des gres rouge en contact avec
un gres friable comme a Antelope Hills. A 8
miles on a Amarillo arroyo une dolomie ou. il
y a du sulphate de baryte, au-dessus et au-
dessous on a les sandy red marl. Des couches
de sandy marl, au lieu d'etre rouges et vertes
sont jaune verdatre, 15 pieds d'epaisseur et un
peu dolomitiques.

L'epaisseur de ces marnes irises ou par tie
superieure du Trias americain est considerable,
au moins 300 pieds au-dessus de gypse. Le
gres blanc est peu nombreux aujourd'hui.
Diluvium des Rocky mountains nombreux et
epais sur tout le plateau. Section au Rio
Amarillo :

Sables rouges alluviaux.
Diluvium Rocky mountains.
Sandy marl red.

16 Septembre. — Du No. 44 au No. 45. — On
a constamment les red sandy marl avec quel-
que bandes vertes et jaunes. Le diluvium est
assez nombreux. A notre gauche on voit des
le matin le Llano Estacado avec une Crete
blanche qui forme la table de son sommet, 20|
miles.

17 Septembre. — Du No. 45 au No. 46. — A 8
miles du No. 45 on s'arrete a Encampment
creek, ou Ton a la coupe suivante qui est la
me me au pied du Llano.

White limestone.
Calcareous conglomerate.
Calcaire.

Gres avec nombreuses concretions calcaire.
Red sandy marl de New Red.

Dans le lit du creek on a les red sandy marls
avec taches vertes, et le diluvium au-dessus a
peu pres jusqu' a, moitie du Barrancas, puis on

September 14. — From Camp No. 42 to Camp
No. 43. — We found the Rocky mountain dilu-
vium with white sand, and in the creeks cliffs
of white sandstone, a little rose-colored, with
whitish limestone. At Camp No. 43, at Rio
Bonito, we found a great development of this
sandstone ; very friable ; of a rose or white
color, containing calcareous concretions, and
some beds of white limestone. No fossils seen.

September 15. — From Camp No. 43 to Camp
No. 44. — Four miles from Camp No. 43, we
found hillocks of red sandy marls^ with a bed
of red sandstone, in contact with a friable
white sandstone, as at the Antelope Hills.
Eight miles from camp, we found at Arroyo
Amarillo (Yellow creek) a dolomite which
contains sulphate of baryta. Above and be-
low, the sandy and red marls occur. Some
beds of sandy marl, instead of being red and
green, are greenish-yellow, are somewhat do-
lomitic, and have a thickness of fifteen feet.

The thickness of the variegated marls, or the
superior part of the American Trias, is consid-
erable, not less than three hundred feet above
the gypsum. White sandstone is not abund-
ant to-day. The diluvium of the Rocky mount-
ains is abundant and thick on all the plateaus.
A section at Rio Amarillo gives the follow-
ing succession of deposites from the surface to
the river :

Red alluvial sands.

Diluvium of the Rocky mountains.

Red sandy marl.

September 16. — From Camp No. 44 to Camp
NoA5. — We constantly found red sandy marls,
with some green and yellow bands ; the dilu-
vium is also abundant. At daylight we saw
on the left the Llano Estacado, with a white
crest forming a table-like summit.

September 17. — From Camp No. 45 to Camp
No. 46. — At eight miles from Camp 45 we
stopped at Encampment creek, and found the
following vertical section, which is the same at
the foot of the Llano :

White limestone.
Calcareous conglomerate.
Limestones.

Sandstone with numerous calcareous concretions.
Red sandy marls of the New Red.

We have, in the bed of the creek, a red S&ndy
marl with green spots, and diluvium, about

136

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

a un gres calcaire jaunatre, avec nombreuses
concretions calcaires de la grosseur d'une
noisette on d'une pomme, a peu pres 30 pieds.
Puis au-dessus on a une couche de conglomerate
tres-calcaire, les cailloux sont de silex, quartz,
jaspe, gneiss, fer ; la pate calcaire est rose.
Dans deux cailloux, l'un est de fer avec beau-
coup d'empreintes de petites bivalves indeter-
minables et deux petites Turritella. Je pense
que ce morceau de fer vient du carbonifere.
Plus un morceau de calcaire jaune rougeatre,
renfermant une lumachelle que je crois etre
d' Ostrea Aquila Americana. Deux pieds au-
dessus on a un demi-pied de calcaire blanc,
tres-compacte, a cassure concboide avec petites
geodes de cristaux de carbonate of lime. Puis
suit un calcaire, tantot un peu grisatre, le plus
souvent tres-blanc, friable un peu crayeux, qui
tacbe les doigts et qui vu au-loin ressemble a
la craie, 15 a 20 pieds. Au-dessus il n'y a pas
de diluvium de meme espece, mais la terre
vegetale. Je pense que cette Llano formation
est cretace superieur.

18 Septembre. — Le Llano Estacado est de
la terre, provenant de la decomposition du
limestone cretace ; pas d'alluvion d'aucnne
espece. Au Camp No. 46, on a la section sui-
vante.

a —

b 7i

c

d —

lb* HA _Jk_

a. Limestone resemblant au fore t marbre.- 10 pieds.

b. Ked sandy marl )

c. Sandstone, violet > 150 "

d. Red marl )

e. Grey sandstone, quelques fois violet 100 "

Le sandstone du Rocky Delaware creek ou
Agua Piedra est gres blancbatre, quelques
assises scbisteuses sont rosatres, denudation
profonde et bizarre, bieroglypbes. des Pueblo
Indians. [Drawings of some of these hierogly-
phics accompany this note.]

Au-dessus on a des marnes rouges et grisatres,
avec teintes vertes et quelque assises de gres

half-way up the hill of Barrancas; then we
found, for about thirty feet, a yellowish calca-
reous sandstone containing numerous calcare-
ous concretions of the size of a hazel-nut or an
apple. Still above we found a bed of a very
calcareous conglomerate; the pebbles are of
silex, quartz, jasper, gneiss, and iron-ore, and
the calcareous cement is rose-colored. Of two
of these pebbles, one is ferruginous, with many
casts and imprints of small undeterminable
bivalves and two little Turritellas; I think that
this ferruginous mass is of carboniferous age.
Another mass of limestone, of a reddish yellow
color, contains a lumachelle, which I consider
to be of Ostrea aquila Americana. Two feet
above we have a thickness of half a foot of
white limestone, very compact, breaking with
a conchoidal fracture and containing small
geodes of crystals of carbonate of lime. Then
follows fifteen or twenty feet of limestone; a
little greyish, but mostly very white ; it is fria-
ble and somewhat chalky, soiling the fingers,
and when seen from a distance resembles chalk.
Above it there is no diluvium of any kind, but
the earth is vegetable mould. I think that
this Llano is the superior cretaceous.

September 18. — The surface of the Llano
Estacado is of earth, proceeding from the de-
composition of the cretaceous limestone. No
alluvium of any kind. At Camp No. 46, we
have the following section :

a. Limestone resembling foreBt marble. -

b. Red sandy marl

10 feet.

c. Violet sandstone V 150 "

d. Red marl )

e. Gray sandstone, sometimes violet 100 "

The sandstone of the Eocky Delaware creek,
or Agua Piedra, is whitish-grey, with some
shales of a rosy hue. The denudation is deep
and peculiar. Some singular hieroglyphics,
made by the Pueblo Indians, were seen here.

Above the sandstone we have one hundred
and fifty feet of red and greyish marls, with
green tints, and some beds of shaly sandstone

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

137

schisteux, rose et rouge, 150 pieds ; puis au som-
met de la montagne qui est a l'ouest du camp
on a un calcaire gris blanchatre, rougeatre a
cassure lisse et ressemblant au forest-marble
du Jura ; pas de fossiles. Ce doit etre du Cre-
tace, ou peuts etre du Jurassique. Le sand-
stone gris et blanc ou se trouve notre camp est
du Trias, et tous le sandstone precedent depuis
Antelope Hills est la meme couche, qui n'est
nullement cretacee. Pas de diluvium.

19 Septemhre. — Du No. 46 au No. 47. — Par-
tie superieure du Trias ou New Eed entre le
Cretace et le grey sandstone. Pas de diluvi-
um; un peu de calcaire cretace venant de
Llano ; beaucoup de specimens d'un bois fos-
sile de Trias. Les morceaux trouves pres de
gypsum creelc sont du Trias et non-erratique
comme je le croyais alors.

20 Septemhre. — Du No. 47 au No. 48. — Le
meme qu 'hier. On trouve dans 3 ou 4 ravins
sans eau courante maintenant, pres du Camp
48, des Ostrea aquila roules et un Trigonia;
ce qui prouve que cette couche Neocomienne se
trouve sur le sommet du Llano, ou Ton voit un
second gradin.

21 Septemhre. — Du No. 48 au No. 49. — New
Eed all the way, avec cretace sur le top du
Monte Eevulto et Tucumcari.1

Nous faisons l'ascension et l'exploration de
Pyramid Moutain ; a 4 milles du Camp No. 48 ;

of a rose and red color. Then at the summit
of the mountain, which is at the west of the
camp, we have a grey, whitish and reddish
limestone, which breaks with a smooth frac-
ture and resembles the forest marble of the
Jura. No fossils were seen ; it must be Cre-
taceous or Jurassic. This greyish white sand-
stone at our camp is of Trias, and all of
the preceding sandstone from the Antelope
Hills is the same bed, which is by no means
cretaceous. No diluvium.

September 19. — From Camp No. 46 to Camp
No. 47. — The superior part of the Trias or the
New Eed is between the cretaceous and the grey
sandstone. No diluvium ; a little cretaceous
limestone coming from the Llano. Many speci-
mens of the fossil-wood of the Trias were
found ; the pieces found near G-ypsum creek
are of the Trias, and not erratic, as I then
thought.

September 20. — From Camp No. 47 to No.
48. — The same formations as yesterday. We
found in three or four dry ravines, near Camp
48, some rolled specimens of Ostrea aquila, and
a Trigonia, which proves that this Neocomien
bed is situated on the top of the Llano, where
we see a second table or summit.

September 21. — From Camp No. 48 to Camp
No. 49. — The New Eed is found all the way
between these camps, with cretaceous on the
top of Mount Eevulto and Tucumcari.

September 22. — From Camp No. 49 to Camp
No. 50. — At Pyramid mountain we find the
following succession of strata :

SECTION AT PYRAMID MOUNTAIN.
' White limestone.

Yellow limestone, with hluish-grey
bed at the bottom.

Bed containing Ostrea [ ?]

White sandstone.
Yellow sandstone.
White sandstone.

Grey and green bed, in contact with :

the superior Trias.
Red and green sandstone.

White marls with [concretions?] V"Triassic."
Red and green marls.
White.
ReTl.

We made the ascension and the exploration of
Pyramid mountain at a point four miles from

500 ft.

1 The section of Pyramid Mountain being given in English in the original, it is not duplicated. — W. P. B.

18 t

138

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

la base et formee des couches superieures du
Trias, l'argile rouge dominant, avec bandes
vertes et bandes blanches; le rouge etant quel-
quefois lie de vin, le petit cone a droite est
entierement forme de ce Keuper, qui resemble'
beaucoup a Brissot. Une couche gris bleu de
1 pied sert de transition et est en contacte avec
un gres gris et vert.

En suite on a une enorme couche de gres
jaune tres fin et dur, 60 pieds de hauteur; c'est
coupe perpendiculairement et forme des cliffs
non seulement ici, mais tout le long des mon-
tagnes que nons voyons hier et aujourd'hui.
Au-dessous on a des assises de gres blanc tres-
fin, tres faciles a degager et qui ont des mon-
ticules sableuses au pied des assises ; a peu pres
25 pieds ; puis on a une assise d'argile gris bleu,
sub-schisteuse avec Ostrea. La couche d' Ostrea
dilatata est a 6 pouces du banc de white sand-
stone, et a 2 pouces d'epaisseur; les Ostrece sont
libres ou unies, et il est tres difficile de trouver
des specimens avec la valve superieure et le
bord parfait ; quelques Ostrea sont dessemines
un peu plus haut dans la marne, mais elles
sont rares. Les argiles a Ostrea, ou True Ox-
ford clay, ont 30 pieds ; puis vient un gres a
pate calcaire, jaune et brillant, tres dur, a
strata de 5 ou 6 pieds d'epaisseur, qui devient
entierement calcaire microtant jaune, au som-
met ; enfin sur quelques parties du sommet
on a un calcaire silicieux blanc, gris, sans fos-
siles, analogique a, celui d' encampment creek.
Toute la plaine de Plaza Larga n'a pas d' allu-
vions, a peine quelques fragments de calcaire
et de gres dissemines sur des monticules, ou
dans Tucumcari creek. Toutes les montagnes
environnant sont courronee par ce Jurassique
a, Ostrea dilatata, jusqu'au Camp No. 49, ou
cette partie superieure disparait. Ostrea Mar-
chii ou [?]

23 Septembre. — Du No. 50 au No. 51. — On
a constamment 1' upper Trias, argile est gris
rouge quelque gres gris a la base ; le Llano se
voit sur notre gauche jusque vers le Camp 51,
ou il disparait au sud il est entierement forme
de Trias, le gres blanc et jaune Jurassique est

Camp No. 48. The base of this mountain is
formed of the superior beds of the Trias, red
clays predominating, with green and white
bands, the red being sometimes wine-colored.
A small cone on the right is formed entirely
of this Keuper, which much resembles that of
Brissot. A greyish-blue bed, one foot thick,
forms the transition to, and is in contact with,
a grey and green sandstone. We afterwards
found an an enormous bed of very hard and
yellow sandstone, sixty feet in height, and cut
perpendicularly, forming cliffs not only at this
place, but along the whole of the mountains
which we saw yesterday and to-day. Above
we found beds of very fine white sandstone,
which are -easily separated, and which have
hillocks of sand about twenty-five feet high at
their base. We then found a bed of greyish-
blue clay, sub-schistose, with Ostrea. The bed
of Ostrea dilatata is six inches from the bank
of white sandstone, and is two inches thick.
The Ostreaz are separate or united ; but it is
very difficult to find specimens with the supe-
rior valve and perfect edges. Some specimens
are disseminated a little higher in the marl,
but they are rare. These clays with Ostrea, or
true Oxford clay, have a thickness of thirty
feet. Then comes a calcareous sandstone, yel-
low and shining ; very hard, with strata five
or six feet in thickness, which become yellow,
" calcaire microtant," at the summit. Fi-
nally, on some parts of the summit we found a
greyish-white silicious limestone, without fos-
sils, analogous to that of Encampment creek.
All the plain of Plaza Larga is without allu-
vium ; there are hardly any fragments of lime-
stone or sandstone disseminated on the hillocks,
or in Tucumcari creek.

All the surrounding mountains are crowned
with Jurassic strata, with Ostrea dilatata, as
far as Camp No. 49, where that superior por-
tion disappears. 1 Ostrea marchii [?]

September 23. — From O amp No. 50 to Gamp
No. 51. — We found constantly the upper Trias ;
the clays and sandstones are red, and some-
times the sandstone is grey at the base. The
Llano appears on our left as far as Camp 51,
where it disappears towards the south. It is

1 Mr. Marcou here mentions Ostrea marchii in connexion with two or three words which cannot be deciphered.

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

/

139

formed entirely of Trias ; the white and yellow
Jurassic sandstone disappeared at half-way.
No alluvium or diluvium.

September 24. — From Camp No. 51 to Camp
No. 52. — We are constantly on the upper
Trias. Ahout half way, on our right, we saw
a large conical mountain, the summit of which
is Jurassic, as well as those of several mount-
ains which are visible further to the right.

September 26. — From Camp No. 52 to Camp
No. 53. — At the summit of a plateau which
we crossed, two miles from the camp, we found
greyish -white limestone with the nodular struc-
ture of the Llano, which must be Jurassic.
Afterwards we are constantly upon the upper
Trias; red sandstone and red clays. In the
valley of the Gallinas river we find, for the
first time, the diluvium of the Rocky mount-
ains, consisting of much rolled masses of a rose-
colored granite, white quartz, and greenish-
black trap ; the latter in abundance, and from
the size of the fist to that of the head. Be-
tween G-allinas river and the Rio Pecos we find
more diluvium, forming little hills, and we see
on our right high hills, forming table-lands,
the summit of whieh must be Jurassic, judg-
ing from the color of the rocks. This Jurassic
appears to extend more to the north than south-
ward from us.

September 27. — In the diluvium of Rio Pecos
we find some erratic dolomite and gypsum, five
miles above Anton Chico. This place is situ-
ated in a basin of red marl of Triassic age,
with sandy alluvium and diluvium.

September 28. — From Camp No. 53' to Camp
No. 54/. 1 — We ascended the beds of the ijpper
Trias five hundred feet, and again find a
plateau where cut by Canon Blanco in the
white Jurassic sandstone. At Cuesta, perpen-
dicular cliffs of 800 to 1,000 feet high exhibit
a beautiful section of the upper Trias and lower
Jurassic. On ascending these formations,
there is a sandy and marJv dolomite. In the
white Jurassic sandstone, there are often in-
tercalations of greyish-white marly beds ;
sometimes of beds of yellow calcareous sand-
stone less than at Pyramid mountain. At tho

1 From this point, the numbers of the camps do not agree with those of Lieutenant Whipple's train which took tho

aroou travelled towards Santa Fe\

disparu a moitie chemin. Pas d'alluvion in
diluvium.

24 Septembre. — Du No. 51 au No. 52. — On
est constamment sur 1' upper Trias. A moitie
chemin, a notre droite, on a une montagne
conique, large, le sommet est Jurassique, ainsi
que celui de plusieurs montagnes que Ton voit
plus loin a droite.

26 Septembre. — Du No. 52 au No. 53. — On
a au sommet d'un plateau que Ton treverse a
2 milles du Camp le calcaire blanc grisatre, a
structure noduleuse du Llano ; qui doit etre
Jurassique ; en suite on est constamment sur
l'upper Trias, gres rouge et argile rouge ; dans
la vallee du Gallinas river, on trouve, pour la
premiere fois le diluvium des Rocky Moun-
tains un granite rose, quartz blanc et trap noir
verdatre, ce dernier en abondance et gros du
poing a la tete tres-roule. Entre Gallinas et
Rio Pecos on a plus de diluvium des petites
collines, et Ton voit a notre droite de hautes
collines a tables, dont le sommet doit etre Ju-
rassique, par la couleur des roches. Ce Juras-
sique parait s'etendre plus au nord qu'au sud
de nous.

27 Septembre. — No. 53. — Dans le diluvium
du Rio Pecos, on a de la dolomie erratique et .
du gypse, on trouve cela a 5 milles en remont-
ant de puis Anton Chico. Anton Chico est
situe dans un bassin du red marl du Trias avec
diluvium et alluvion sableux.

28 Septembre.— Du No. 53' au No. 54'.— On
monte les assises de l'upper Trias 500 pieds,
puis on entre sur un plateau ou il j,a le canon
Blanco, dans le gres blanc Jurassique. A
Fouest des cliffs perpendiculaires de 800 a
1,000 pieds montrant une belle section de
l'upper Trias et du lower Jurassique. En mon-
tant des deux formations il y a une dolomie
marneuse et sableuse. Dans le gres Jurassique
blanc, il y a souvent intercallees des assises
marneuses d'un gres blanc; quelques couches
de gres calcaire jaune, moins qu a Pyramide
mont ; au sommet du cliff on n'a pas encore la

140

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY FIFTH PARALLEL.

couche a Gryphcea. On voit an nord ouest de
nous que les assises du Trias et du Jurassique
sont releves et plongent a Test ; les montagnes
rocheuses se voient a, 20 on 30 miles. Pas du
diluvion sur le plateau et dans le Caiion Blanco ;
quelques assizes de calcaire blanc noduleux
dans le canon.

30 Septembre. — Du No. 54' au No. 55'. — On
suit les gorges du Canon Blanco, le fond de la
gorge est du trias superieur et les bluffs sont
du gres blanc et jaune Jurassique, avec
quelques assises de marnes grises interposees
et un calcaire blanc grisatre, noduleux comme
aupararant. Pas de fossiles trouves. Les
assises du Trias et Jurassique sont en concord-
ance de stratification et inclinent a l'Est'est
Sud ; la tete des coucbes regardant les Rocky-
mountains. Pas de diluvium; un peu d'allu-
vions dans le fond du canon.

1 Octobre.—Du No. 55' au No. 56'.— A 2
miles on a un petit caiion qui conduit au Rio
Galisteo, et qui est entierement sur 1' upper
Trias, avec une traversine de Jurassique ou
gres jaune concretionaire. A droite, on suit
une ligne de collines disloquees de gres jaune
et blanc Jurassique au sommet avec upper red
Trias a la base. La direction est nord, sud,
les coucbes plongeant est et ouest sous un
angle de 15 a 60 degres. Quelques assises de
gres jaune ont glisse sur le red marl du Trias
et sont renversees en plusieurs endroits. Dans
cette vallee on a un peu de diluvium venant
de Gold mountains. C'est une rocbe quartzeuse
avec cristal noir de pyroxine? Au village de
Galisteo on a des collines de diluvium venant
de Santa Fe mountain, il y a granite, quartz,
serpentine, etc.

Du No. 55' au No. 56'.— Dyke de trap 30°
est est nord a 30° O. O. S. coupe le sandstone
blanc, 10 pieds de large, a 400 yards nord du
Camp No. 56; gres jaune blanc du Jurassique.
Les assises du Trias apparaissent ensuite dis-
loquees et inclinent generalement au sud sud
est sous un angle de 10 a 15°. Avant d'arri-
au sommet d un plateau on est sur le diluvium
epais, a fragments anguleux, non gros avec

summit of tbe cliff we do not yet find any beds
of Gryphaia. We see in the northwest of us
that the beds of the Trias and of the Jurassic
i are upheaved, and dip to the east. The Rocky
mountains are seen twenty or thirty miles
distant. No alluvium upon the plateau, or in
the Canon Blanco, but some beds of nodular
white limestone were seen in the caiion.

September 30. — From Camp No. 54' to Camp
No. 55'. — We followed the gorge of Canon
Blanco. The bottom of the gorge is of upper
Trias, and the bluffs are of white and yellow
Jurassic sandstone, with some interposed beds
of grey marls, and a greyish- white nodular
limestone as before. No fossils found. The
Triassic and Jurassic strata are conformable,
and are inclined towards the E.E.S. The
heads of the strata are turned towards the
Rocky mountains. No diluvium ; a little al-
luvium in the bottom of the canon.

October 1. — From Camp No. 55' to Camp
No. 56'. — Four miles from the camp, we found
a small canon in the upper Trias ; then a
long caiion which led to Rio Galisteo, and
which is entirely upon the upper Trias, but
crosses a belt of Jurassic, or yellow concre-
tionary sandstone. We followed a line of
hills of dislocated white and yellow sandstone
of Jurassic age at the summit, with the upper
Trias at the base. The direction is north and
south, and the strata dip east and west, at an
angle of from fifteen to sixty degrees. Some
beds of yellow sandstone have slid upon the
red marl of the Trias, and are overturned in
several places. In that valley we have a little
diluvium coming from Gold mountain ; it is a
quartzose rock with black crystals of pyroxene.
In the village of Galisteo, we have hills of di-
luvium coming from the Santa Fe mountains ;
there are among it masses of granite, serpen-
tine, &c.

October 2. — From Camp No. 56' to Camp
No. 57'. — At four hundred yards north of
Camp No. 56', a trap-dyke ten feet wide cuts
the white sandstone in a direction 30° E.E.N,
to 30° W.W.S. These sandstone are yellow-
ish-white and Jurassic.

The beds of the Trias beyond are upheaved,
and are generally inclined to the south-south-
east under angles of ten to fifteen degrees.

RESUME AND

sable. Granite rose a cristaux de hornblende
comme au Lac Superieur. On a au Cerrito ou
nons campons, les cones et couches d'anciens
volcans ; trachyte et roche pyroxenique, trap.
Un poudingue blanchatre recouvre les tra-
chytes horizontalement le long du creek.

Derriere est la sierra Jumez et la Rio Grande.
Les volcans sont au sud de Santa Fe entre
Placer et San Domingo et sont nommes Cerri-
tos ainsi que les ranchos ou. nous campons.

3 Octobre. — Du 57' au No. 58'. — A peu de dis-
tance du camp on trouve le rio de Santa Fe qui
suit une barranca pendant sept ou huit milles;
on a des roches pyroxeniques au bord du vol-
can et le New Bed, releve au nord ou horizon-
tal ; avec une immense couche de lava trap, re-
couvrant le tout et formant le top du barranca.
Quelquefois ce trap est basaliforme, et il re-
couvre aussi le gres Tertiaire qui est au bord
du bassin du Eio Grande. On voit dessous
une breche volcanique formee de roches pyroxe-
niques et autres, roulees des Rocky mountains
dessous le trap. Des scories de lava de lapilli
rougeatres tres-legeres ; de la dolomie. Les
cotes des barrancas ont de 250 a. 300 pieds
d'elevation. Ces montagnes d'hier et de ce
matin sont nominees les Cerritos.

4 Octobre. — Du No. 58' au No. 59'. — On suit
constamment les bords du Rio Grande, avec
1' alluvion a cailloux assez gros, pas de blocs
erratiques. Pres de San Felipe, la gorge se
resserre et on a la lave trap qui couronne le
sommet de New Red et de gres blanc. De
1' autre cote du Rio Grande on voit cette lave
noire s'etendant et formant le sommet des
cliffs.

5 Octobre.— Du No. 59' auNo. 60'.— On suit
les memes alluvions sableuses, de plus, la val-
lee s'elargit considerablement et entre Alameda
et Albuquerque Ton voit de veritables dunes
de sable 2 ou 3 en succession dans la direction
du sud au north.

8 Octobre. — D'Albuquerque au Camp A au-

FIELD NOTES. 141

Before arriving at the summit of the plateau,
we stand on a thick diluvium containing an-
gular fragments of small size, and mingled
with sand and rose- colored granite, with crys-
tals of hornblende, as at Lake Superior. At
the Cerrito, where we encamped, we found the
cones and streams of an ancient volcano ; tra-
chyte, pyroxenic rocks, and trap. A whitish
conglomerate, in horizontal beds, covers the
trachytes along the creek. The Sierra Jemez
and the Rio Grande lie beyond these volcanoes ;
they are south of Santa Fe, between Placers
and San Domingo, and they are called Cer-
ritos, as well as the ranchos where we camped.

October 3. — From Camp No. 5*7' to Camp
No. 58'. — A short distance beyond camp
we found the Santa Fe river, which follows
a barranca for seven or eight miles. We find
volcanic rocks at the borders of the volcano,
and in the north elevated beds of New Red,
horizontal, with an immense stream of trap-
pean lava covering the whole, and forming
the top of the barranca. This trap is some-
times basaltiform, and it also covers the Ter-
tiary sandstone which is at the border of the
basin of the Rio Grande. We saw under the
trap a volcanic breccia, formed of pyroxenic
and other rocks rolled from the Rocky mount-
ains. We saw scoriaceous lava, and a very
light reddish lapilli, and some dolomite. The
sides of the barrancas are from 250 to 300 feet
in elevation. The mountains seen yesterday
and this morning are named Cerritos.

October 4. — From Camp No. 58' to Camp
No. 59'. — We were constantly upon the bor-
ders of the Rio Grande. The alluvium is rather
coarse, and there are no erratic blocks. Near
San Felipe the ravine becomes narrower, and
we see the trappean lava which crowns the
summit of the New Red and white sandstone.
On the other side of the Rio Grande we see
this black lava spread out and forming the
summit of the cliffs.

October 5. — From Camp No. 59' to Camp
No. 60'. — We followed the same sandy allu-
vions. The valley widens considerably be-
tween Alameda and Albuquerque, and we find
true sand-dunes, two or three in succession, in
a north and south direction.

October 8. — From Albuquerque to Camp A,

142

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

essous de Tejera. D'abord du Bio Grande
allant est on a pour 10 milles d'alluvions du
E. M. , puis avant d'entrer dans le canon de San
Antonio, on a des masses de granite gris noir-
atre, a horneblende et gros cristaux de feldspath
blanc quelquefois, jaunatreles masses de gran-
ite ont 3 milles de large, puis apres le rancho
habite, on a un granite rose, un peu de felds-
path, et des dykes de granite blanc rosatre ;
enfin un trap serpentineux vert, renfermant
des assises calcaires metamorphiques de l'age
Devonien ; et en contact avec cette rocbe verte,
le calcaire de montagne ou lower carboniferous.
Au Camp A on a la coupe suivante :

below Tejera. — On going easterly from the Rio
Grande, we travel ten miles on the alluviums
of the Rocky mountains; then, before entering
the canon of San Antonio, we found outcrops
of blackish-grey granite, with hornblende and
large crystals of white feldspar, sometimes yel-
lowish. These exposures of granite are three
miles wide. Then, after passing the inhabited
ranchos, we have a rose-colored granite, with
but little feldspar, and dykes of- rosy-white
quartz ; finally, a green serpentinoid trap, con-
taining strata of metamorphic limestone of
Devonian age, and, in contact with this green
rock, the Mountain limestone or Lower car-
boniferous. At Camp A we have the follow-
ing section :

Le trap serpentineux est en contact avec le
calcaire du carbonifere inferieur qui plonge
a l'Est sous un angle de 35 a 40 degres, les
tetes de couches regardant l'Ouest, et la direc-
tion nord sud, un peu nord est de 3 a 5°. Ce
calcaire est bleu grisatre, quelque fois noir,
tres-compacte, a cassure conchoi'de, quelque
fois se brisant facilement lorsqu' il contient une
lumachelle de fossiles.

Quelques assises d'argile schisteuse, noire,
tres-mince, sont intercallees. II y a 3,000
pieds de ce calcaire, plus au sud, on dit qu'il con-
tient des couches de houille grasses. Les fossiles
ne sont pas abondants ni bien conserves, jai sur-
tout recueilli les Productus giganteus et punc-
tatus; un Spirifer et deux Terebratulaz deux
polypes, des masses detiges d'encrinites formnat

marbre [?] plusieurs petits Productus, le

Cora. Du Camp a Tejera pour un mille on a con-
stamment, sur notre droite, ce calcaire carbon-
ifere, puis au village on a de nouveau le Trias,
avec toutes ses divisions ; derriere San Antonio
pres d'Antonitto, on ale gypse blanc du Trias.
Les couches plongent toutes a Test sous un
angle de 20° a 45°.

The serpentinoid trap is in contact with the
limestone of the inferior carboniferous, which
dips to the east at an angle of from thirty-five
to forty degrees, the heads of the beds turning
towards the west. The trend is north and south,
or from three to five degrees E. of N. This
limestone is greyish-blue, sometimes black ;
very compact, with a conchoidal fracture, and
sometimes breaks easily when it contains a
lumachelle of fossils. Some strata of very thin
and black clay shales are intercalated. This
limestone has a thickness of three hundred
feet. It is said that a short distance further
south it contains beds of bituminous coal. The
fossils are not very abundant or well preserved.
I gathered principally the Productus giganteus
and punctatus, a Spirifer, and two Terebratulai
and Polypi; fragments of the stalks of encri-

nites forming marble [?] ; and many small

Producti, the species Cora. From the camp
at Tejera we have constantly on our right, for
the distance of a mile, this carboniferous lime-
stone, then in the village we again meet the
Trias with all its divisions. Behind San An-
tonio, near Antonitto, we have white gypsum
of the Trias ; all the beds dip to the east at
angles of from twenty to forty-five degrees.

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

143

9 Octobre. — Du Camp A, Humboldt, au Camp
B, Douglas, or Antonitto. — On a le carbonifere
inferieur jusqu'au village de Tejera, oucomme
le Trias, le coal a ete trop comprimet n'ap-
parait pas. Le carbonifere a 2,000 peids, le
Trias 4 ou 5^000 ; derriere San Antonio, on a
le gypse blanc et toute notre route jusqu'au
Camp Douglass est sur le Trias. Alluvion
seulement des montagnes, sans cailloux stries,
on a d'immenses blocs erratiques.

October 9. — From Camp A, Humboldt, to
Camp B, Douglas, or Antonitto. — We have the
inferior Carboniferous as far as Tejera vil-
lage, where, as the Trias, the coal has been
too much compressed and does not appear.
The carboniferous has a thickness of two
thousand feet (2,000,) the Trias four or five
thousand (4,000 or 5,000.) Behind San An-
tonio we find white gypsum, and all our route,
as far as Camp Douglas, is on the Trias. Allu-
vium from the mountains, and without striated
pebbles. We have immense erratic blocks.

>
9
c

c

o

1

C

a. Alluviurh. b. Granite, c. Serpentinoid Trap, d Carboniferous, e. Trias.

10 Octobre. — Camp B ou Douglas. — Ascen-
sion d' Albuquerque mountains 10,000 pieds.
Direction -N.S. Les couches plongent a Test
sous un angle de 25° a 30°. Le Gold mount-
ain est moins eleve que Albuquerque. Du
Camp Douglas, on suit un canon dans l'upper
Trias pour un mille et demi ; puis on com-
mence avec le calcaire gris blanc, noiratre du
carbonifere ; le coal ne parait pas, il a ete trop
serre ; immediatement on trouve dans le car-
bonifere, les Productus giganteus, punctatus ;
Terebratula ; Spirifer ; Orthocera, Zaphrentis,
Crinoids ; Zaphrentis tres-abondant. Le coal
se trouve plus au sud dans le Manzana mount-
ain. Quelques assises de schistes noirs, tres
minces se trouvent entre les assises de calcaire
compactes de quartre et six pieds d'epaisseur;
rognonsde silex noir dans le calcaire, au sommet
le calcaire est un peu marneux, avec silex, com-
me le calcaire du Fort St. Andre. Dans le
canon pas de traces de glaciers visibles. La
coupe a beaucoup d'analogie avec celles d'hier.
Quelques assises de gres rosatre tres dur sont
interposees dans le calcaire ; l'un de ces gres
est a gros grains roules. Le calcaire domine
de beaucoup.

October 10. — We ascended the Albuquer-
que mountains (Sandia mountains) 10,000 feet
high. They are surmounted by the limestones
of the inferior carboniferous. The direction
is N. and S., and the rocks dip to the east-
ward at an angle of from twenty-five to thirty
degrees. Cold mountain is less elevated than
Albuquerque mountain. From Camp Doug-
las we followed for one and a half miles a
canon in the upper Trias ; then we commenced
with the greyish-white, blackish limestone of
the carboniferous formation ; the coal does not
appear — it has been too much compressed. In
these carboniferous rocks we found the follow-
ing fossils: Productus, giganteus and punc-
tatus; Terebratuloz, Spiriferai, Orthocera, Za-
phrentis and Crinoids ; the Zaphrentis was very
abundant. Coal is found further to the south,
in the Manzana mountains. Several beds of
black shales, four to six feet in thickness, and
very thinly stratified, are found between the
beds of compact limestone. Kidney-shaped
masses of black silex are present in the lime-
stone, and at the summit it is a little marly,
with silex, like the limestone of Fort St.
Andre. There are no visible traces of glaciers
in the canons. The section is much like thai
seen yesterday. Some beds of very hard and
rose-colored sandstone are interposed in the
limestone. One of these beds is of coarse
rolled grains. The limestone is the predom-
inating rock.

144

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY— FIFTH PARALLEL.

11 Octobre. — Du Camp Douglas au Camp
Placers. — East side of Indian spring on trouve
des veines de copper et peut etre de gold. Je
prends plusieurs specimens a San Pedro. Du
camp a San Pedro on est constamment sur le
Trias superieur, peu apres San Pedro on tra-
verse encore le calcaire carbonifere, qui plonge
a Test, et est reserre entre le rio de San Pedro
et le New Placer, ou Ton voit horizontalement
le Trias et le Jurassique, le new placer dirige
est 30° nord, est plus ancien que les Rocky
mountains. Entre l'old Placer et le New
Placer mountain il n'y a pas de formations
visibles mais de l'alluvion.

12 Octobre. — A moitie chemin entre Tuerto
et Galisteo a Test de gold mountain on passe
un dyke de roche pyroxenique ? comme a Sine-
guilla, dirige nord, south. Du Camp Placer
on suit une vallee nord est. entre l'old et New
Placer mountains. Les roches sont quartz-
euses et feldspathiques. Puis on a le Trias
coupe dans plusieurs directions, par des dykes
de trap ; l'un va est est sud a l'ouest ouest nord ;
on a ensuite en allant plus a Test et au nord, le
terrain jurassique jaunatre avec Lucina ; gres
jaune ; argile sableuse gres a la partie inferi-
eure. Ce terrain Jurassique incline a, l'est ;
est horizontale contre une montagne de granite
quartzeux qui va du nord est au sud ouest
comme le New Placer. Ce qui prouve que ces
montagnes sont anterieures aux Eocky mount-
ains. Le Jurassique s'etend nord est sans in-
terruption qu'un peu au rio de Gralisteo. A 3
millesnord de Gralisteo je trouve dans des argiles

sableuses [?] comme le gres superliassique

des environs de Salins ; une dent et vertebre de

Saurien, un Ostrea Jurassique [?] et une

espece d'Inoceramus ou mieux de Plicatulas.
On voit sur les plaquettes de gres des debris
nombreux, ressemblant a des os brises de
poissons ou sauriens. On a ces argiles jusqu'au
Camp D . Pas de diluvium ; entre Placer et la
vieille montagne pres de Galisteo.

13 Octobre. — Du Camp D au Camp E, a,
Pecos village. — Peu apres le camp on quitte le
terrain Jurassique, et Ton suit jusqu'a, old

October 11. — From Camp Douglas to Camp
Placer. — On the east side of Indian springs
we found veins of copper ore, perhaps aurifer-
ous. I procured several specimens at San
Pedro. From the San Pedro camp we are
continually upon the superior Trias. A short
distance from San Pedio we again cross the
carboniferous limestone, which dips to the
east and is shut in between the Eio San Pedro
and the New Placer, where we also find the
Trias and the Jurassic. This New Placer has
the direction E. 30 N., and is older than the
Rocky mountains. Between the Old Placer and
the New Placer mountain tbere are no forma-
tions visible, except the alluvium.

October 12. — Half way between Tuerto
and Gfalisteo, on the east side of Gold moun-
tain, we passed a dyke of pyroxenic (?) rock,
like that at Sineguilla, with a direction north
and south. From Camp Placer we followed
the valley towards N.E., between the Old and
New Placer mountains. The rocks are quartzose
and feldspathic. Then we find the Trias cut
in several directions by trap-dykes ; one has
the direction E.E.S. and W.W.N. On going
further to the east and north, we find the
yellow deposites of Jurassic age, containing
Lucina ; yellow sandstone and grey sandy
clays at the inferior part. This Jurassic for-
mation, inclined towards the east, is horizon-
tal against a mountain of quartzose granite
which trends from northeast to southwest, as
the New Placer, which proves that these moun-
tains are anterior to the Rocky mountains.
The Jurassic extends northeast without in-
terruption, except a little at the Rio Galisteo,
three miles north of Galisteo. I found in

sandy clays, [?] sandstone, like the

super-liassic sandstone of the vicinity of Salins ;
a tooth and vertebra of a Saurian, a Jurassic

Ostrea, [?] and a species of Inoce-

ramus, or rather of Plicatulus. We saw upon
the slabs of sandstone numerous fossil fragments
resembling broken bones of fishes or saurians.
We find these clays as far as Camp D. No
diluvium between Placer and the Old mount-
ain near Galisteo.

October 13. — From Camp D to Camp E, at
Pecos village. — A little beyond camp we leave
the Jurassic formation, and follow canons in

•

RESUME AND

Pecos, des canons dans de Trias ; les sommets
des canons etant du gres Jurassique.

14 Octobre. — D'old Pecos a Pecos on voit
sur la rivie gauche de la riviere les couches
du Terrain carhonifere superieur, et nous cam-
pons sur le terrain carhonifere inferieur. Pres
du pont je trouve une quantite de fossiles, et
la couche a Terebratula biplicata, a Productus
giganteus et punctatus ; Spirifer, Polypes, Cri-
noids.

On quitte le terrian, peu apres le camp, et le
reste du chemin jusqu'au Camp F, est sur le
trias ; le sommet du canon pres du camp est
Jurassique, la partie inferieure etant tres ferru-
gineuse, comme l'oolite ferrugineuse entre le
gres blanc et le gres jaune.

15 Octobre. — Du Camp F ou Camp G, ou
Santa Fe. — Deux miles apres avoir quitte le
camp, on quitte le Trias pour etre jusqu'a
Santa Fe sur le granite et autres roches erup-
tives. Ce granite est rose, et contient heau-
coup de feldspath.

16, 17, 18 Octobre. — Du Camp G an Camp
H, ou Galisteo rio. — On a le diluvium jusqu'a
Cineguilla puis la les volcans couronnant et
recouvrant le Trias et le Jurassique ; dans le
vallee du rio Galisteo, on a le Jurassique su-
perieur avec Lucina ou Cardium et des dykes
de trap courrant nord 30 est.

19 Octobre. — Du Camp H au Camp I. — On
a le Jurassique, jusqu'au sortir du canon de
Cuesta creek ou. Ton voit le Trias, au dessous
a San Felipe on a du cote de la riviere deux
ilots de Jurassique couronnes de lava, le vol-
can etant derriere San Felipe un peu nord
ouest. La lave s'etend de l'autre cote du rio
Grande sans interruption tandisque de ce cote
on ne l'a plus apres San Felipe ; les alluvions
s'etendent sur les collines de marnes Juras-
sique entre Cuesta et notre Camp I.

20 Octobre. — Du Camp I d Albuquerque. —
Vis-a-vis Alameda de l'autre cote du rio
Grande, on a le Cretace sahleux decomposant
et une petite assise de red marl a decouvert ;
entre Alameda et Albuquerque sur le cote
droit de la riviere on a de nouveau des laves
volcaniques. Derriere Bernalillo on a dans
1' alluvion une argile plastique rouge et jaune,

FIELD NOTES. 145

the Trias as far as old Pecos, the top of the
canons being of Jurassic sandstone.

October 14. — We saw on the left bank of the
river, between Old Pecos and Pecos, the beds
of the superior carboniferous formation, and
we encamped upon the inferior carboniferous.
Near the bridge I found a quantity of fossils
and a bed filled with Terebratula biplicata,
Productus giganteus and punctatus, Spirifer,
Polypi, and Crinoids.

We leave the formation a short distance
beyond camp, and the rest of the way, as far
as Camp F, is on the Trias. The summit of
the canon near the camp is Jurassic, and the
inferior portion is very ferruginous, like the
ferruginous oolite between the white and the
yellow sandstone.

October 15. — From Camp F to Camp G, or
Santa Fe.— Two miles beyond camp we left the
Trias, and, until near Santa Fe travelled on
granite and other eruptive rocks. The granite
is rose-colored, and contains abundance of
feldspar.

October 16, IT, and 18. — From Camp G to
Camp H, on Galisteo river. — We find dilu-
vium near to Cineguilla, then volcanoes
covering the Trias and Jurassic rocks. In the
valley of the Rio G-alisteo we have the superior
Jurassic, with Lucina or Cardium, and some
trap-dykes running 1ST. 30° E.

October 19. — From Camp H to Camp I. —
We found the Jurassic as far as the mouth of
the canon of Cuesta creek, where we found the
Trias ; below, on this side of the river,
we find two small islands of Jurassic strata
crowned with lava ; the volcano being be-
hind San Felipe, a little northwest. The
lava extends, without interruption, on the
other side of the Rio Grande, while on this
side it disappears after passing San Felipe.
The alluvium extends on the hills of Jurassic
marl, between Cuesta and Camp I.

October 20. — From Camp I to Albuquerque. —
Opposite Alameda, on the other side of the
Rio Grande, we have the Cretaceous, sandy
and decomposing, and a little layer of rod marl
is uncovered. Between Alameda and Albu-
querque, on the right side of the river, we
again find the volcano lavas. Behind Ber-
nalillo we have a red and yellow plastic

146

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

dont on se sert pour la poterie. Arrive a Al-
buquerque a, 3 h. \ apres midi.

21 Octobre. — Jusqu'au 10 November reste a
Albuquerque, parti le 10 November dansl'apres
midi, Camp No. 1 a, 3 milles d' Albuquerque
sur 1' alluvion de la riviere. On trouvera le
11, la mesa formee de sables provenant de
gres ; au sommet du cote de Puerco river, il y
a un calcaire poreux, blanc friable avec petits
cailloux d'alluvion comme la pate.

11 Novembre. — Camp No. 2'. — On Campe
sur le rio Puerco, pen d'eau, facilement par
des puits.

12 Novembre. — Camp No. 3'. — Peu apres le
Puerco on a l'argile blanc grisatre ; avec nom-
breux rognons de fer oxide ; quelque arbres
fossiles, au-dessus se trouve le gres jaune, les
couches plongent a Test sous un angle de 15 a
20 degres. Cette argile est la meme qu'aurio
Galisteo, et contient la coucbe de houille a Las
Lunas et sur plusieurs autres points du Pu-
erco. Peu d'alluvion et pas gros. Le terrain
avec argile grise a la base et gres blanc au
sommet les argiles diminuent de puissance et
les gres augmentent pres du Camp No. 3' ou
Sheep spring. On voit les argiles et surtout
gres rouge de Trias qui s'elevent dessous. L'
inclination est generalement a Test, sous un
angle faible. Exemple de l'autre cote du rio
de Lagunas et au Camp 3' on a.

clay, which is used for making pottery. We
arrived at Albuquerque at half-past three p. m.

October 21. — We remained at Albuquerque
until the 10th of November, and left it in the
afternoon, and camped three miles from the
town. At this camp we have the alluvium of
the river.

November 11. — From Camp V to Camp 2'. —
We traversed the mesa formed by the sand
derived from the sandstone. On the summit,
at the side of Rio Puerco, there is a porous
limestone, white and friable, with small allu-
vial pebbles in the paste.

November 11. — Camp No. 2' to Camp No. 3',
on the Bio Puerco. — There is but little water
here, but it is easily obtained by wells.

November 12. — Camp No. 3' to Camp No.
631. — A little beyond the Puerco we found
greyish-blue clays, with numerous kidney-
shaped masses of oxide of iron ; some fossil
trees ; the yellow sandstone is above, the beds
dipping to the east at an angle of from 15 to
20 degrees. This clay is similar to that at
Rio Galisteo, and contains beds of coal at Las
Lunas, and several other points on the Puerco.
Alluvium scanty and not coarse. The forma-
tion with grey clays at the base and white
sandstone at the top is found here. These
clays diminish in thickness, and the sand-
stone increases near Camp No. 3', or " Sheep
spring ;" we see the clays, and especially the
red sandstone of the Trias, rising underneath.
The inclination is generally to the east at a
low angle ; for example, on the other side of
the Rio des Lagunas and Camp 3', we have
the appearance shown in the annexed figure.

13 Novembre. — Du Camp 3' au 4'. — On a I
sur la droit une table de gres rouge de Trias,
environne quelquefois par des gres et argiles
grises Jurassiques ; il n'y a presque pas d'ar-
gile rouge, mais des gres argilleux rouges au

November 13. — We find on the right a table-
land of red stonestone of the Trias, sometimes
surrounded by Jurassic sandstones and grey
clays ; there is hardly any red clay, but red
argillaceous sandstones from the summit of

1 From this point onward, the camps are numbered to correspond with those of the main party. — W. P. B.

RESUME AND

sorumet du Trias. Puis du gypse blanc et de
la dolomie ; et dessus du nouveau gres rouge.
A la riviere au dessous de Laguna ; on a la
fin d'une conche de lave venant de mont Tay-
lor et qui suit la vallee de la riviere. Deux
milles avant d'arriver a Laguna, on retraverse
les gres blancs et sableux Jurassiques Ton
campe sur cette formation. La lave couvre le
tout et a saute par dessus les cliffs des argiles
et des gres Jurassiques.

14 Novembre. — Du Camp 4' au No. 5'. — En
quittant Laguna, on suit une vallee assez large.
Ce fond et une partie de ses flancs, est forme
entierement par des argiles blauatres du Ju-
rassique inferieur. Ces argiles sont couronnees
par des assises des gres gris jaunatre. Puis
on a de nouveau une assise d'argile gris ble-
uatre renfermant de petites Gryphwa dilatata et
ecailles de Sauriens ; c'est Y Oxford clay; et
de nouveau des gres gris jaunatres, assez puis-
sants renferment des Area et Isocardia. Le
tout sur notre droite et quelquefois sur la gau-
cbe est recouvert par la lave du grand voloan
Taylor.

15 Novembre. — Du No. 5' au 6'. — En sortant
de Covero, on suit une vallee dont le fond est
encore des argiles grises Jurassiques qui dis-
paraissent ensuite pour n' avoir plus que des
gres jaunes du Jurassique superieur sur la gau-
che ; ce Jurassique est constamment recouvert
par des laves ; et a cinq milles de Covero on
remonte une coucbe de scorie que Ton suit en-
suite jusqu'au Camp No. 6' ; ou elles sont en
connexion avec les laves qui viennent du cote
du Mont Taylor. Deux milles avant d'arriver
au camp ; et au-dessus du camp ces laves sont
basaltiformes sur le cote droit. Sur la gauche
on n'a que du gres Jurassique : pas de laves.
Ces gres au camp plongent un peu 5 ou 6° a
Test; jusque la, ils sont restes horizontalement
sous la lave et les scories sont noires, poreuses
avec tous les accidents de plis et de contorsion
que Ton rencontre dans les autres pays. La
coulee de scorie envoye de 200 a 400 metres de
dans le fond de la vallee.

16 Novembre. — Du Camp No. 6' au No. 7'. —
Nous suivons d'abord jusque'a 3 miles la rive

FIELD NOTES. 147

the Trias ; then some white gypsum and dolo-
mite, and under it the red sandstone again.
At the river below the Laguna we find the
end of a bed of lava coming irom Mount Tay-
lor, and which follows the valley of the river.
Two miles before we reach Laguna we recross
the Jurassic white sandstone and sands, and
we camped on this formation. The lava covers
the whole, and has risen over the cliffs of Ju-
rassic clays and sandstones.

November 14. — From Camp No. 63 to No.

64. — On leaving the Laguna we followed a
large valley, the bottom and a part of the sides
being formed entirely of blue clays of the in-
ferior Jurassic. These clays are crowned by
the strata of yellowish-grey sandstone. We
then find again a strata of bluish-grey clay,
containing small Gryphaza dilatata and scales
of Saurians ; this is the Oxford clay ; and again,
yellowish-grey sandstones, rather thick, con-
taining some Area and Isocardia. The whole
upon our right, and sometimes upon our left, is
covered by the lava of the great volcano Mount
Taylor.

November 15. — From Camp No. 64 to No.

65. — On going out from Covero, we follow the
valley, the bottom of which is still composed
of grey clays, somewhat ferruginous, which
afterwards disappears, leaving nothing but yel-
low sandstones of the superior Jurassic upon
the left. This Jurassic is constantly covered
by lavas, and at fives miles from Covero we
met with a stream of scoria which we after-
wards followed as far as Camp No. 65, where
it is in connection with the lavas which come
from the side of Mount Taylor. Two miles
before arriving at the camp, and above it, on
the right-hand side, these lavas are basalti-
form. On the left we find only Jurassic
sandstones and no lava. These sandstones at
camp dip slightly (5 or 6 degrees) to the
east ; until now, they have been horizontal
under the lava.

The lava and scoria are black and porous,
with all the conditions of plications and contor-
tions which we find in other countries. The
stream of scoria is from 200 to 400 metres wide
in the bottom of the valley.

November 16. — From Camp No. 65 to No.

66. — We at first followed, for three miles, the

148

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

droite du courant de laves ; puis nous traver- )
sons la coulee ; jusqu'au Camp No. 7' ou nous \
la quittons pour camper sur le granite rose a,
gros grains. Sur la droite de notre route,
nous avons les gres Jurassiques jaunes et gris,
et au-dessous pas de granite, et dans quelque !
ravines, on voit des gres rouge du Trias. Les
couches inclinent a, Test, 10 a, 15° ; et la direc-
tion des tetes de couches et du granite est
nord-south, age des Rocky mountains. Pas
de diluvion ; pas d'erratiques. Hauteur du
Camp 7' de 7,000 a 8,000 pieds.

17 Novembre. — Du No. 7' au No. 8'. — Peut-
etre hier, 2 miles avant d'arriver au camp et
jusque pres du camp, ai-je passe des gres et
calcaire carboniferes, c'est douteux, le matin
nous ne faisons que 8 miles ^, et toujours sur
le granite, sur le point de jonction avec la lave ;
traversant quelque fois des portions de cal-
caire. A notre Camp No. 8' on quitte la lave ;
et Ton est sur le point de partage du volcan,
new red et granite. La lave se retrouve autour
de nous et specialement sur notre droite. A
100 yards au nord on a le gneiss fortement re-
leve au nord est ou nord. Au sud du camp,
ce sont des gres rouges du Trias tres develop-
pes, et plongsant sud sud ouest.

18 Novembre. — Du No. 8' au No. 9'. — En
partant du camp, on laisse la lave a droite ; puis
on s'eleve rapidement sur les couches du Trias
du sommet ; en tournant un peu au sud on
traverse du calcaire gris bleuatre avec quelques
couches de gres rosatre intercalees. Je n'ai
pas ete capable de trouver des fossiles au nord
ouest, et on la laisse sur la droite pour suivre
des sables proven ant de la decomposition du
gres jaune et blanc et rosatre Jurassique qui
torment une cliff table regardant l'Est, et
dont Inscription Rock fait par tie.

right bank of the lava currents ; we then
traversed the coulee, which is two or three
miles wide, and then followed along its left
bank as far as Camp No. 66, where we left it,
and camped on a coarse-grained, rose -colored
granite. On the right of our route we have
grey and yellow Jurassic sandstones, and
above, near the granite, and in some ravines,
we saw the red sandstone of the Trias. The
beds dip to the east, 10 or 15 degrees, and the
direction of the uplifted edges of the beds and
of the granite is north and south, being of the
age of the Rocky mountains. No diluvium or
erratics. The height of Camp No. 66 is from
7,000 to 8,000 feet.

November 17. — From Camp No. 66 to No.

67. — Yesterday, I perhaps passed carboniferous
sandstones and limestones, two miles before
arriving at camp, and even at camp, but it is
doubtful. This morning we made only eight
and a half miles, and were alwavs on the
granite, or the point of junction with the lava,
sometimes crossing portions of the latter. At
our Camp No. 67 we left the lava and were
upon the point of division between the volcano,
the New Red and granite. Lava is again seen
about us, and especially upon our right. One
hundred yards to the north we found the gneiss
much upraised to the northeast or north . South
of the camp there are very well developed red
Triassic sandstones dipping south-southeast.

November 18. — From Camp No. 67 to No.

68. — On going from camp we leave the lava
on the right ; then we rise rapidly upon the
beds of Trias, with white gypsum near the
summit ; on turning a little to the south, we
crossed some bluish-grey limestone, with some
intercalated beds of roseate sandstone. I have
not been able to find any fossils, on account of
the cold and of the fog. I believe it is of the
age of the lower Carboniferous, but it is doubt-
ful. The beds incline strongly to the west,
especially the limestones. (Direction of the
Sierra de Zuiii northwest and southeast.)

We again descended between the lavas com-
ing from the south and the red sandstones of
the Trias. We traversed this great lava field
which extends towards the N.N.W., and we
leave it upon the right, and follow sands pro-
ceeding from the decomposition of the White

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

149

Du sommet cl'Inscription Eock je vois au
sud est, un volcan et deux ou trois cones secon-
daires ; le grand volcan a 10,000 pieds de
hauteur et est isole.

10 Novembre. — Du No. 9' au No. 10', ou Ojo
Pescado springs. — On traverse la coulee de
lave en sortant du camp ; puis une colline de
sandstone rose et d'argile grisatre a la base
Jurassique. Puis le chemin retraverse de
nouveau sur la lave jusqu'aux [ruines ?) ou
Camp No. 10, ou. la coulee de lave par ait ter •
miner. Les cliffs de canon a droite et a ganche
sont couronnes par un gres rose tres-fin, vin-
ace a, stratification tres-epaisse de 15 a 40
pieds ; et la base des cliffs jusqu'au f est formee
d'argiles schisteuses gris noiratre ; avec inter-
calation de couches de calcaires jaune de trois
pieds d'epaisseur et plusieurs assises de marnes
sont si noires, qu'elles deviennent bitumineuses
et ont des assises de houille, d'un demi a un pied
d'epaisseur. Les assises Jurassiques inclinent
a l'ouest sous un angle de 8 a 10 degres. Les
sommets des canons sont des Mesas. Pas de
diluvium.

20 Novembre. — Du No. 10' au No. IV. — On
suit le canon qui part d'Inscription rock. La
lave est beaucoup reduite de dimension ; mais
occupe tout le temps le fond du bassin jusqu'au
Camp 11 ou il se termine a 30 yards plus a
l'ouest du Camp 11. On arrive a un resserre-
ment du canon avant d'arriver dans la vallee
de Zuni proprement dite ; et alors le Jurassique
disparait, excepte sur quelques sommets. Le
Trias est tres-developpe, surtout les gres rou-
ges ; quelque assises bandies et grises sur le
sommet ; le fond de la vallee entierement rose
ou rouge lie de vin. Le Trias inclinant a
Test sous un angle de 10 a 15 ; et la vallee de
ZuSi est un ecaillement longitudinal parallcle

and yellow and rose-colored Jurassic sand-
stone, "which forms a table-cliff facing the east,
and of which Inscription Rock is a part. From
the summit of Inscription Eock, I see in the
southeast a volcano, and two or three secondary
cones. The great volcano is 10,000 feet in
height, and is isolated. The following is the
section from Camp 67 to Camp 68.

November 19. — From Camp No. 68 to Camp
No. 69, or Ojo Pescado springs. — We crossed
the coulee of lava on going out from the camp,
then a hill of rose-colored sandstone and grey
clay, at the base of the Jurassic ; then the road
again crosses the lava near to the [ruins ?] or
Camp No. 69, where the stream of lava ap-
pears to terminate. The cliffs of the canon on
the right and on the left are crowned by a very
fine rose-colored, micaceous sandstone, very
thickly bedded, from fifteen to forty feet thick ;
and the base of the cliffs, or three-fourths of the
height, is formed of blackish-grey clay shales,
with intercalations of beds of yellow limestone
three feet thick ; and several beds of marls are
very black and become bituminous, and also
contain layers of coal from six inches to one
foot in thickness. The Jurassic strata incline
to the west under an angle of eight to ten de-
grees ; the tops of the canons are plains or
mesas. No diluvium.

November 20. — From Camp No. 69 to Camp
No. 70. — We followed the canon which com-
mences at Inscription Eock. The lava is much
reduced in its dimensions, but occupies all the
bottom of the basin as far as Camp No. 70,
where it terminates only thirty yards beyond.
We reached a contracted part of the canon be-
fore arriving at the valley of Zuni, properly so
called, and then the Jurassic disappears, ex-
cept upon some summits. The Trias is very
well developed, especially the red sandstones ;
some grey and white strata towards the sum-
mit. The bottom of the valley is entirely rose
or wine-colored. This Trias inclines towards
the east at an angle of from ten to fifteen de-

Lava.

150

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

a la sierra de Zufii ; mais qui n'a pas amene
au jour le granite.

26 Novembre. — Nous partons du Camp No.
11' pour venir au Camp No. 12' a, 5 miles au-
dessous de Zufii, sur la route du Fort Defi-
ance. Nous avons ete tout le temps sur le New
Red sandstone qui s'etendversl' Orient et ausud.
Au nord le sommet des Plateaux est recouvert
par une mince couche jaunatre Jurassique. Pas
de diluvium.

28 Novembre. — Nous faisons 11 miles au sud
ouest, Camp No. 13'. Nous avons ete tout le
temps sur le Trias, quelques nodules de gpyse
se sont rencontrees. Pres du camp il y a des
Gryplioza roules, qui me parvaissent Juras-
siques ; on s'est eleve peut-etre sur le Juras-
sique.

29 Novembre. — Du. No. 13' au No. 14'. — On
suit un plateau ravine un peu ou Ton ne voit
pas les couches, c'est une terre un peu sableuse
rosatre. 20 milles de distance. A 14 milles
on traverse une crete, qui montre les assises
de gres et d'argile rouge ; il y a un peu de
jaune Jurassique au sommet. Les assises
plongent a Test, et les tetes des couches
regardent l'ouest. Inclination tres-faible de
8 a 10°. L'eau se trouve au fond d'un en-
tonnoir de 100 pieds de profondeur dans de la
terre rougeatre. II y a plusieurs autres en-
foncements voisins. On commence a voir sur
le sol de petits cailloux de jaspe jaune et rouge
de la grosseur d'une noisette.

30 Novembre. — Du. No. 14' au No. 15'. — 8
milles de distance. — New Bed tout le temps.
On est dans une vallee tres-large avec une
espece de marais ; au fond c'est de l'argile
sableuse, en creusant un puit on a beaucoup
d'eau. Au Camp 15 on commence a avoir de
l'alluvion avec cailloux de jaspe rouge, jaune,
noir, etc., asssz gros, et arbres fossiles siliceux
avec couleur, aussi quelques fragments de la
grosseur du poing.

1 Decembre. — Nous faisons 12 miles a
l'ouest toujours sur le Trias superieur, les
assises etant un peu inclinees vers l'ouest et
etant la seconde levee de la troisieme ligne de

grees, and the valley of Zuiii is a longitudinal
ecaillement parallel with the Sierra de Zuiii,
but which has not brought the granite to view.

November 26. — From Camp No. 70 to Camp
No. 71. — For five miles below Zuiii, upon the
route to Fort Defiance, we pass constantly
upon the New Red sandstone, which extends to
the west and south. In the north, the top of
the plateaus is covered by a thin and yellow
bed of Jurassic age. No diluvium.

November 28. — From Camp No. 71 to Camp
No. 72, (11 miles.) — Between these two camps
we have been constantly upon the upper Trias,
and met with some nodules of gypsum. Near
the camp there are some rolled Gryphcea, which
appear to me to be Jurassic ; we have risen
upon the Jurassic.

November 29. — From Camp No. 72 to Camp
No. 73, (20 miles.) — We followed a plateau cut
by some slight ravines where the strata are not
visible ; it is a reddish-colored earth, and some-
what sandy. At fourteen miles from camp,
we traverse a crest which shows the strata of
sandstone and red clay ; there is a little yellow
Jurassic at the summit ; the strata plunge to
the east, and the heads of the beds face tbe
west ; the dip is slight, being from eight to
ten degrees. Water is found at the bottom of
a funnel-shaped hole in the reddish earth one
hundred feet in depth. There are also several
other sinks or holes in the vicinity. We com-
mence to find on the surface some small peb-
bles of red and yellow jasper, of the size of a
hazel-nut.

November 30. — From Camp No. 73 to Camp
No. 74, (8 miles.) — We found New Red all the
way ; and travelled in a very large valley,
where there is a kind of marsh which is of
sandy clay at the bottom ; by digging down
one foot, we obtained much water. At Camp
No. 74, we commenced to have some alluvium,
with pebbles of red and yellow and black jas-
per, pretty large ; and fossil trees, silicified
and colored ; also some fragments of the size
of the fist.

December 1. — From Camp No. 74 to Camp
No. 75. — We travelled twelve miles to the
west, always upon the upper Trias ; the strata
are a little inclined towards the west, and are

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

151

dislocation. Au summet d'un ridge on est
quelques instants sur le gres jaune Jurassique.
Pres du Camp No. 16' on a des cristaux de
gypse blanc, repandus dans l'argile et les gres
ronges. Plateaux a gradin. Diluvium de
jaspe, silex, grains de granite.

2 Decembre. — Du No. 16' au No. 17'. — On
fait 11 miles au sud sud ouest, tout le temps
sur Y upper Trias ; les assises plongent aunord
nord ouest sous un angle de 5 a 7 degres.
Beaucoup d'argile sableuse rouge quelquefois
ronge brun a, la base. Beaucoup d'arbres fos-
siles ; quelques-uns ont 4 pieds de diametre et
sont divises par d'un a deux pieds de long,
siliciesavec de brillantes couleurs, quelques-uns
ont des cristaux de quartz, tres-clairs sur le
rond de tronc. Grand ravin avec nombreux
eboulements, peut-etre au sommet d'une hill
une rocbe trapeenne ? Sierra Blanca. Great
table-land a l'ouest et au nord.

3 Decembre. — Du No. IT' au No. 18'. — On
descend les assises du Trias, qui continuent a
plonger au nord. Notre direction etant ouest
sud. On trouve une grande quantite d'arbres
fossiles, passe a l'etat de jaspes et agates a cou-
leurs tres-brillantes, rouges, jaunes, blanches,
noires et barrioles. Des arbres presqu'entiers
se sont vus aujourd'hui dans le sandstone. Oe j
sandstone est dur gris un peu rosatre ; mais
surtout gris blanc ; dur ; a grande stratifica-
tion, 3 a 6 pieds. Argiles rouges dominant,
un peu d'argile grise blanchatre a concretions
rougeatres. On est, je pense, dans la partie
moyenne de Trias. Pas de Jurassique. Au
point ou l'on traverse une large rio, il y a dans
le sandstone des espece de Cardinia, les co-
quilles sont fracturees et mal conservees ; peut-
etre que plus tard j'en trouverai de meilleures.
Dans le diluvium ou a un melange de petits cail-
loux colores, provenant de ces debris d'arbres
silicifies. Aspect du pays, table-land ; allant
en s'abaissant du cote du cours du Bio Colorado
Chiquito. Quelques buttes ou cones a tables
restant dans la plaine au sud de nous.

5 Decembre.— Du No. 18' au No. 19'.— On fait
12 miles ouest ouest sud passant la partie infe-

the second uplift of the third line of disloca-
tion. At the summit of a ridge, we are, for a
short time, upon the yellow Jurassic sand-
stones. Near Camp No. 75 we found crystals
of white gypsum distributed on the clays, and
red sandstone. The plateau rises gradually,
and we find a diluvium of jasper, silex, and
grains of garnet.

December 2. — From Camp No. 75 to Camp
No. 76 — (11 miles.) — We travelled towards the
southwest, all of the time on the upper Trias ;
the strata dip to the N.N.W. at an angle of
from five to seven degrees. A sandy red clay
is abundant, and sometimes it is brownish-red
at the base. Many fossil trees were seen. Some
of them are four feet in diameter, and are di-
vided into blocks one or two feet long. They
are silicified, and are brilliantly colored. Some
of them contain very clear quartz crystals on
the round part of the trunk. We saw a great
ravine with numerous land-slips ; perhaps at
the summit of a hill a trappean rock. Saw
the Sierra Blanca, and an extensive table-land
at the west and the north.

December 3. — From Camp No. 76 to Camp
No. 77. — We descended the beds of Trias
which continue to dip to the north, our direc-
tion being W. S. We found a great quantity
of fossil trees turned into jasper and agate,
with very brilliant colors — red, yellow, white,
and black, and these sometimes combined.
Trees, almost entire, were seen to-day in the
sandstone. This sandstone is grey, a little
pink, but especially whitish-grey ; it is hard,
and thickly bedded, the layers being from
three to six feet thick. The red clays predom-
inate, and there is a little whitish-grey clay,
with reddish concretions. We are, I believe,
in the middle part of the Trias. No Jurassic.
At the point where we cross a large river,
there are in the sandstone some specie3 of Car-
dinia ? The shells are defaced and badly pre-
served. In the diluvium we find a mixture of
little colored pebbles coming from the wrecks
of the silicified trees. The country appears as
a table-land descending towards the bed of the
Colorado Chiquito ; some buttes or truncated
cones rest on the plain at the south of us.

December 5. — From Camp No. 77 to Cm up
tfo. 78.— We travelled 12 miles W.W.S.,

152

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

rieure du Trias avec argile blanche et grise,
epaisse, sans fossiles ; inclination au nord,
beaucoup de drift de petits cailloux colores et
pieces de bois petrifie. Dans le Rio Chiquito
on a des fossiles carboniferes roules, ce qui in-
dique cette formation dans la Sierra Blanca et
assez pres de nous.

6 Decembre.—Du No. 19' au No. 20'.— On suit
14 miles J la riviere Chiquito sur le cote droit,
vallee large quelques buttes sur notre droite,
Trias inferieur gres et marne rouge, et au-
dessous des marnes blanches. Le diluvium
venant de Mogoyon est nombreux a cailloux
rnoyens; avec debris de Spirifer et Productus ;
surtout des silex gris.

7 Decembre.—Du No. 20' au No. 21'.— On fait
8 miles ; pas de changement geologique avec
la marche d'hier.

8 Decembre.—Du No. 21' au No. 22'.— On fait
5 miles ; meme formation ; pas de change-
ment.

9 Decembre.—Du No. 22' au No. 23'.— On fait
un mille et demi ; pas de changement.

14 Decembre.—Du No. 23'auNo. 24'.-^Onfait
4 milles ; en traversant le Rio Colorado Chi-
quito, New Bed avec gypse blanc en rognon
epais. Diluvium nombreux tres-petit, avec
quelques fossiles carboniferes. Productus semi-
reticulatus et Polypi venant de la Sierra de
Mogoyon.

16 Decembre. — Du No. 24' au No. 25'.— On
fait 11 milles en descendant la riviere tout le
temps sur le Trias inferieur. Ores rouge, argile
rouge et blanc. Diluvium nombreux, mais
avec petits cailloux.

17 Decembre.—Du No. 25' au No. 26', 16
milles. — En descendant la riviere, gres et ar-
gile rouge du Trias inferieur, recouvert par du
diluvium a cailloux tres petits, venant de la
Sierra de Mogoyon. Les assises plongent tou-
jours au nord sous un angle de 8 a 10 degres.
On voit des buttes basaltiques a Test, est,
nord, huit ou dix sur la plateau de Trias.

passing the inferior portions of the Trias, with
red and blue and grey clays, thick, but with-
out fossils ; inclination of these beds is to the
north. There is much drift of little colored
pebbles and pieces of petrified wood. In Rio
Chiquito we found rolled carboniferous fossils,
which indicate that this formation is found in
the Sierra Blanca, and not far from us.

December 6. — From Camp No. 78 to Camp
No. 79.— We followed the Rio Chiquito for
14| miles, on right side. The valley is large ;
some buttes on our right ; Trias inferior ; red
sandstone and marl, and white marl under
them. The diluvium comes from the Mogoyon
Sierra ; it is abundant, and contains pebbles
of medium size, especially' of grey silex, and
also fragments of Spirifer and Productus.

December 7. — From Camp No. 79 to Camp
No. 80 — (8 miles.) — The geology is the same
as observed yesterday.

December 8. — From Camp No. 80 to Camp
No. 81 — (5 miles.) — The formations continue
the same, without change.

December 9. — From Camp No. 81 to Camp
No. 82, (1| miles.) — No change in the geology.

December 14. — From Camp No. 82 to Camp
No. 83, (4 miles.) — In crossing the Rio Colo-
rado Chiquito, white gypsum was seen in thick
kidney-shaped masses in the New Red. Dilu-
vium abundant and very small, containing car-
boniferous fossils; Productus semi-recticulatus
and Polypi coming from the Sierra Mogoyon.

December 16. — From Camp No. 83 to Camp
No. 84. — We made 1\\ miles descending the
river, and continually on the inferior Trias.
Red sandstone and white and red clays were
seen. Diluvium abundant, with small pebbles.

December 17. — From Camp No. 84 to Camp
No. 85, (16 miles.) — We were yet descending
the river, and passed red sandstone and red
clays of the inferior Trias, covered with but
little diluvium, of very small pebbles, coming
froimthe Sierra Mogoyon. The strata all dip
northward at an angle of from eight to ten
degrees. We see basaltic buttes in the direc-
tion of E.E.N. ; eight or ten of them being
on the plateau of the Trias.

RESUME AND

19 Decembre.—Du No. 26' au No. 27'.— On
fait 4 milles \ sur le gres rouge et l'argile
rouge ; le gres derriere et formant des petites
buttes a cliffs perpendiculaires. Presque pas
de diluvium.

20 Decembre.—Du No. 27' au No. 28'.— On
fait 3 milles |- en retrogr.adant sur la riviere,
pour avoir du meille,ur fourrage. New Bed
avec diluvium tres-petit.

22 Decembre.—Du No. 28' au No. 29'.— On
fait 11 miles | a l'ouest, en quittant la riviere
et en so dirigeant au pied sud du grand volcan
eteint de San Francisco mountain. Jusqu'a
deux miles £ du camp on a le New Bed sand-
stone sub-schisteux, avec ripple-marks et argile
rouge. Puis on a au-dessous un calcaire mag-
nesien ou dolornitique epais a stratification re-
guliere de | a un pied d'epaisseur, plongeant
au nord sous un angle de 10 a 15°, en stratifi-
cations concordante avec le New Bed, et quel-
ques assises du magnesian limestone alternant
avec le gres rouge a la base. Dans ce mag-
nesian on a une couche avec fossiles tres-mal
conserves ; je crois reconnaitre des fragments
de Belemnite ? un Nautilus f un Fteroceras ?
Quatre milles apres avoir marche sur ce mag-
nesian on a la lave du volcan qui la recouvre ;
et nons campons sur la base, non loin des cones
secondaires du grand volcan. Pas de dilu-
vium. Des cendres noires du volcan jusque
pres du Camp No. 28'.

23 Decembre.—Du No. 29' au No. 30'.— Cen-
dres volcaniques, laves et dykes de basalte ;
avec cones volcaniques ; pas d'erratiques ; 13
milles.

26 Decembre.—Du No. 30' au No. 31'.— On
fait 12 milles, tout le temps sur les cendres et
les laves volcaniques. Pres du camp on a une
grande montagne de rocbe sienitique rouge.
Pas de diluvium.

27 Decembre.—Du No. 31' au No. 32'.— Vol-
canique avec rocbe dioritique. Lave rougea-
tre* La neige couvre les roches presque par-
tout. Nous campons a Leroux's spring.

31 Decembre.—Du No. 32' au No. 33'.—
20 t

FIELD NOTES. 153

December 19. — From Camp No. 85 to Camp
No. 86, (4 J miles.) — We travelled upon the
red sandstone and red clays ; the red sandstone
behind, and forming little buttes with per-
pendicular cliffs. Little or no diluvium.

December 20. — From Camp No. 86 to Camp
No. 87, (3J miles.) — We returned along the
river to-day for 3J miles in order to obtain bet-
ter forage for the animals. New Ked, with di-
luvium very slight.

December 22. — From Camp No. 87 to Camp
No. 88, (11^ miles.) — We passed westward,
leaving the river and going towards the south-
ern base of the extinct volcano of San Fran-
cisco mountain. Two and a half miles from
camp we found the New Eed sandstones, sub-
schistose with ripple-marks, and red clay ;
under this a magnesian limestone, or thick
dolomite, regularly stratified, in beds of six
inches to one foot in thickness, dipping to the
north at an angle of from ten to fifteen de-
grees, in concordant stratification with the
New Red. Some strata, also, of magnesian
limestone, alternating with the red sandstone
at the base. In that magnesian formation we
found a bed of fossils, but very badly pre-
served. I believe. that I recognised fragments
of Belemnites ? a Nautilus ? and a Pteroceras ?
After having travelled four miles on this mag-
nesian formation, we reached the lava of the
volcano which covers it from view. We
camped upon this lava, not far from the sec-
ondary cones of the great volcano. The over-
flows from the volcano are black, and reach
nearly to Camp No. 87. No diluvium.

December 23. —From Camp No. 88 to Camp
No. 89, (13 miles.) — Volcanic ashes, lavas, and
basaltic dykes with volcanic cones were passed.
No erratics.

December 26. — From Camp No. 89 to Camp
No. 90, (12 miles.) — We were all of the way
upon volcanic ashes and lavas. We found
near the camp a great mountain of red sienitic
rock. No diluvium.

December 27. — From Camp No. 90 to Camp
No. 91. — We passed volcanic and dioritic rocks
and reddish lava. The rocks are almost all
covered by snow. Encampment at Lerottx'a
spring.

December 31. — From Camp No. 91 to Camp

154

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

On fait huit milles nord ouest de la grande
montagne de San Francisco. Eoche volcan-
ique comme a Leroux's spring, trap amygda-
loide avec noyau de calc spar. La neige re-
couvre la terre presque partout.

1 Janvier, 1854.— Du No. 33' au No. 34'.—
On fait six milles et demi dans la neige, mais
toujours sur le volcanique, et nous campons an
pied d'un autre cone, apres en avoir laisse
deux sur la gauche et trois cones sur la droite.

2 Janvier.— Du No. 34' au No. 35'.— On
fait huit milles et demi au sud ouest, meme
formation que la veille. Pres du camp 35',
ou voit du sommet d'une colline, dans la di-
rection du Grand Colorado de l'ouest, une
grande mesa ; et a l'ouest sud les montagnes
volcaniques en continuant.

8 Janvier. — Du No. 35' au No. 36'. — Pres
de dix milles. Tout le temps sur la lave vol-
eanique, excepte a moitie chemin, ou. Ton passe
un canon creuse dans le magnesian limestone f
horizontale couch e ou allant plonger un peu au
nord ouest. A droite et a gauche du chemiD,
cones volcaniques ; un au sud assez grand ;
Bill Williams' pic.

9 Janvier.— Du No. 36' au No. 37'.— On fait
dix milles, sur le terrain volcaniqne, a trois
milles du camp on est au sommet d'une grande
colline d'ou Ton voit une vaste etendue de pays
a l'ouest et au sud. Au sud on voit un grand
volcan ; et a l'ouest deux grands volcans ; en
descendant la cote, on quitte la lave pour des
assises de calcaire magnesien, a rognon sili-
cieux, roti en rose par la lave; pres du pied
de la montagne je trouve trois ou quatre assises
remplies de fossiles, les memes qu' a Sandia
mount et a Pecos. C'est les Productus reticu-
latis, punctatus, Spirifer, Terebratida et Poly-
piers, tres communs et formant lumachelle ;
c'est le calcaire de montagne ou lower carbonif-
erous. Pas de diluvium.

10 Janvier.— Du No. 37' au No. 38'.— On
fit 13 milles et demi au sud ouest. On traverse
du calcaire carhonifere, puis la lave ; puis ie
gr&s carhonifere superieur disloque, et plon-

No. 92. — We travelled eight miles northwest
of the great San Francisco mountain. The
volcanic rocks were as at Leroux's spring ;
amygdaloidal trap was met, the cavities heing
filled with calc-spar. The snows cover nearly
the whole surface.

January 1, 1854. — From Camp No. 92 to
Camp No. 93. — We travelled 6^ miles in the
snow, hut were always on the volcanic rocks ;
and we camped at the foot of another cone,
after having left two cones on the left and
three upon the right.

January 2. — From Camp No. 93 to Camp
No. 94. — We travelled 8^ miles to the south-
west on the same formations as yesterday.
Near Camp 94 we saw from the summit of a
hill, in the direction of the Great Colo-
rado of the West, an extended mesa, and the
volcanic mountains are continued towards the
southwest.

January 8. — From Camp No. 94 to Camp
No. 95. — We travelled nearly ten miles upon
the volcanic lava, except at half-way, where
we crossed a canon excavated in the magnesian
limestone ? ; the heds horizontal, on inclining
gently towards the northwest. Volcanic cones
are on the right and left of the road, and those
on the south are quite large. Bill Williams'
mountain.

January 9. — From Camp No 95 to No. 96. —
We made ten miles on the volcanic ground.
At three miles from the camp reached the sum-
mit of a great hill, from whence we saw a vast
extent of country at the west and south. We
saw a greatv olcano in the south and two large
ones in the west. On descending the hill, we
leave the lava for strata of magnesian lime-
stone, with silicious kidney-shaped masses,
haked to a rosc-color hy the lava ; near the
foot, I found three or four beds filled with fos-
sils, the same as at Sandia mount and at Pe-
cos ; they are the Productus reticulatus and
punctatus, Spirifer, Terebratula, and Polypi,
very abundant, and forming a lumachelle. It
is the mountain limestone or lower carbonifer-
ous. No diluvium.

January 10. — From Camp No. 96 to No.
97. — We travelled 13^ miles to the southwest.
We crossed carboniferous limestone, then lava,
then the upper carboniferous sandstone in dis-

RESUM.fi AND

geant au sud sud ouest sous un angle de 60 a,
80 degres ; les assises sont brisees ; la direction
generale des tetes des couches est 1' ouest ouest
nord ; on voit dans cette direction une grande
montagne non volcaniques, a vingt milles de
nous. Vers le Camp No, 38', la lave recouvre
de nouveau les gres carboniferes et Ton a la
lave jusqu'au Camp 38'. Ces gres carboniferes
rouges sont schisteux tres-durs, plus durs en
general que ceux du New Red des Prairies.
Pas de diluvium.

12 Janvier.— Du No. 38' au No. 39'.— On
fait quatre milles et demi dans une direction
sud sud ouest. Tout le temps sur la lave vol-
canique. Le ravin du ruisseau ou Ton campe
est semblable a, celui du Cineguilla pres de
Santa Fe.

13 Janvier. — Du No. 39' au No. 4:0'. — On
fait 13 milles f au sud ouest; on suit d'abord
un canon de la veille jusqu'a sa fin, au sud est.
Lave tout le temps. Puis on traverse une
plaine, mesa, corverte de lave et laissant voir,
dans differents endroits, le calcaire blanc gris-
atre du carbonifere ? Le Picacbo mont est au
nord, et parait etre du granite. Notre Camp
No. 40' est sur le gres carbonifere. Les coucbes
plongent au nord. Pas de dilvium.

16 Janvier. — Nous avons change le camp,
a, un mille au sud ouest de No. 40', et nous som-
mes sur le granite ou gneiss, avec du red
sandstone carbonifere au sommet. La direc-
tion de la dislocation se voit tres-bien ; est sud
est au nord ouest.

19 Janvier. — Du Camp No. 41' au No. 42'. —
On fait 7 milles ^, orage tres severe de neige.
Nous campons au pied d'une mesa de calcaire
carbonifere ; les couches plongent au nord.
Une vallee large de huit milles nous separe
d'une mesa a Test. Diluvium dans le ruisseau
du Picacho, forme de roche granitique vol-
canique et gneiss et calcaire carbonifere assez
petits boulders.

20 Janvier. — Du No. 42' au No. 43'. — On
fait 9 milles en zig-zag. Dans le calcaire car-
bonifere au pied de la mesa, je vois des
Crinoids et Productus dans un ruisseau.
On campe a une ravine apres avoir passe

FIELD NOTES. 155

located beds, dipping to the S.S.W. at an angle
of from 60° to 80°. The strata are broken ;
the general direction of the heads of the beds
is W.W.N. We saw a great non-volcanic
mountain in that direction, and about twenty-
miles from us. Towards Camp No. 97 the lava
again covers the carboniferous sandstones, and
the lava continues as far as Camp 97. These
red carboniferous sandstones are schistose and
are very hard, generally more hard than those
of the New Ked of the prairies. No diluvium.

January 12. — From Camp No. 97 to No.
98— We travelled 4£ miles in a S.S.W. di-
rection, all of the time upon the volcanic lava.
The ravine of the brook, where we are en-
camped, is similar to that of the Cineguilla,
near Santa Fe.

January 13. — From Camp No. 98 to No.

99. — We travelled 13| miles to the S.E., fol-
lowing first the canon of the valley near its
end, at the S.E. We were constantly on lava.
Then we crossed the plain (mesa) covered with
lava, and in different places showing the greyish
white limestone of the carboniferous formation.
The Picacho mountain is on the north, and ap-
pears to be of granite. Our Camp No. 99 is
on the carboniferous sandstone, and the beds
dip to the north. No diluvium.

January 16. — From Camp No. 99 to No.

100. — We have changed camp from No. 99 to
one mile further towards the southwest, and are
now upon the granite, or gneiss, with some red
carboniferous sandstone at the summit. The
direction of the dislocation is very well seen,
and is northwest and southeast.

January 19. — From Camp No. 100 to No.

101. — We travelled seventeen and a half miles
in a very severe snow-storm, and encamped at
the foot of a mesa of carboniferous limestone ;
the beds dip to the north. We are separated
from the mesa on the east by a valley eight
miles wide. The diluvium in Picacho brook
is composed of volcanic and granitic rocks,
gneiss and carboniferous limestone, the bould-
ers being rather small.

January 20. — From Camp No. 101 to No.

102. — We travelled nine miles in a zig-zag
course in the carboniferous limestone at the foot
of the mesa. I saw Crinoids and some species
of Productus in the brook. We camped at a

156

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

le gres rouge du carbonifere. Neige sur le
terrain.

21 Janvier. — Du No. 43' au No. 44'. — On fait
six milles ; presque tout le temps sur le granite,
quelquefois sur le sandstone carbonifere, tres
der ; dans la vallee de Pueblo creeJc on voit de
nombreux exemples de rocbes isolees et rock-
ing. Veines de quartz.

22 Janvier. — Du No. 44' au No. 45'. — Od
fait 7 milles, sur le granite tout le temps, a

ravine after having passed the red sandstone of
the carboniferous. Snow upon the ground.

January 21. — From Camp No. 102 to No.
103, (6 miles.) — We were most of the way on
granite, but sometimes on very hard carbon-
iferous sandstone. In the valley of Pueblo
creek we saw numerous examples of isolated
and rocking rocks. Veins of quartz seen. -

January 22. — From Camp No. 103 to Camp
No. 104. — We travelled seven miles upon the

Carbontf.ro us
Limestone

(igmyiiiarai|"|"|||i"n'"mn'

/ K

/ /

/ ? —
'' ~ i i

notre droite on a un cliff de 1200 pieds d'eleva-
tion. De la base a la moitie on a le granite,
puis une bande de gres rouge, Devonien on
Old Bed; puis des couches de calcaire et de
gres grisatre appartenant au Mountain lime-
stone. Un peu de diluvium dans le ruisseau.

/ -

'23 Janvier. — Du No. 45'

au

No. 46'.— On

fait six milles, trois milles sur le granite, le
reste sur Void red sandstone, d'ailleurs comme
hier; on passe aussi deux collines de trap
amygdaloi'de.

24 Janvier. — Du No. 46' au No. 47'. — On
fait six milles un peu sur le carbonifere lime-
stone; puis trois milles sur le banc et Ton
campe de nouveau sur le calcaire carbonifere.

27 Janvier. — Du No. 47' au No. 48'. — On
fait 12 milles et demi; tout le temps sur la
lave volcanique. On a un grand volcan a
l'ouest de nous; a droite, c'est un cliff incline
de carboniferous limestone. A gauche des
montagnes de granite a peu pres 1500 a 2000
pieds au-dessus de notre camp.

28 Janvier.— Du No. 48' au No. 49'.— On fait
trois milles au sud ouest ; et on revient sur nos
pas. Tout le temps sur le volcanique.

30 Janvier. — Du No. 49' auNo. 50'. — D'abord
sur la lave basaltique pour un mille et demi,
puis sur le gneiss qui s'etend a la base de la

granite, and on our right we found a cliff
twelve hundred feet high. From the base to
the middle we found the granite, then a band
of red sandstone, (Devonian or Old Red.)
Above this, the beds of limestone and grey
sandstone belonging to the Mountain lime-
stone. A little diluvium in the brook.

January 23. — From Camp No. 104 to Camp
No. 105. — We travelled six miles ; three miles
on the granite, and the remainder upon tbe
Old Red sandstone ; the rest as yesterday. We
also have two hills of amygdaloidal trap.

January 24. — From Camp No. 105 to Camp
No. 106, (6 miles.) — We travelled a short dis-
tance on tbe carboniferous sandstone ; then
three miles on the lava, and encamped again
on the carboniferous limestone.

January 27. — From Camp No. 106 to Camp
No. 107, (12^ miles.) — We were to-day on
volcanic lava, and found a great volcano west
of us ; on the right is an overhanging cliff of
carboniferous limestone ; on the left, granitic
mountains about 1,500 to 2,000 feet above our
camp.

January 28. — From Camp No. 107 to Camp
No. 108. — We travelled three miles to the
S.W., and retraced our steps, but all of the
way upon volcanic rocks.

January 30. — From Camp No. 108 to Camp
No. 109. — We passed first upon basaltic lava
for one and a half miles, and then upon the

RESUME AND

mesa au nord de nous. Sur ce gneiss se trouve
un gres Tertiaire plongeant a l'ouest surmonte
d'une espece de poudingue crayeux epais de
15 a 20 pieds, corrode par l'eauatmospherique
en petits trous. Ce poudingue parait etre

un [?] de cendre volcanique, conglom-

erat de nombreux fragments de lave non rou-
les. Puis trois milles du Camp No. 50', on
rencontre deux chaines granitiques rouges al-
lant dn sud au nord. Au nord on a la mesa
carbonifere qui le termine, et Ton a les petites
collines granitique, au sud le grand volcan

Whipple mount [?] ; il est tres-large,

peu eleve, et s'entre mele avec le granite.

31 Janvier. — Du No. 50' au No. 51'. Peu
apres etre sorti du Camp 50', on monte une
colline qui est de la lave recouvrant le granite.
Cette lave s'etend sur de vastes etendues au
nord et a, l'ouest a cinq milles du Camp 50',
dans un rio, on a des assises de sables et de
calcaire grossier, tertiaires inclinant fortement
a l'ouest, la direction de dislocation etant du
sud au nord. On a parmi des dykes de trap et
de porpbyre rouge. Pas de diluvium. Pays
montagneux et difficile au point de vue geolo-
gique.

1 Fevrier. — Du No. 51' au No. 52'. — Au
sommet de Cactus Pass, on a un large filon de
sienite rouge, allant N.S. ; puis du gneiss,
porphyre quartzifere, veines de quartz blanc.
Le gneiss est contourne, les scbistes p ongent
a, l'ouest. Au Camp 52' on a, a Test, les
montagnes Aquarius, avec plateau de conglom-
erat de lave, avec mesa de laves. Pas de dilu-
vium

4 Fevrier. — Du No. 52' au No. 53', on fait 11
milles f . — La moitie sur le granite avec quelque
veines de quartz, moitie sur le diluvium.

5 Fevrier. — Du No. 53' au No. 54'. — Le
granite affleure de temps a autres sur la gauche,
quoique souvent le drift le recouvre, le drift

FIELD NOTES. 157

gneiss, which extends to the base of the mesa
at the north of us ; upon this gneiss is found a
Tertiary sandstone dipping to the west, sur-
mounted by a thick pudding-stone, from
fifteen to twenty feet thick, and which is
very chalky, and much corroded into cavities
and little holes by the action of the atmosphere
and water. This pudding-stone appears to be
a mixture of volcanic ash, conglomerated with
numerous fragments of lava, not worn by roll-
ing. Then at Camp No. 109, we found two
granitic chains trending north and south. On
the north we find a mesa of carboniferous rocks
which comes to an end, ("le termine,") and
we find small granitic hills. At the south the
great volcano, "Whipple Mount," is still seen.
It is very large and but little elevated, and is
intermixed with granite.

January 31. — From Camp No. 109 to Camp
No. 110. — A short distance from Camp No.
109, we ascended a hill which is composed of
lava covering granite. This lava extends for
great distances on the north and west. At five
miles from Camp No. 109, we found, in a river,
beds of sand and of coarse limestone, Tertiaries
inclining strongly to the west ; the direction of
the dislocations being north and south. We
found dykes of trap and red porphyry travers-
ing the formation. No diluvium. The coun-
try is mountainous, and difficult in a geological
point of view.

February 1. — From Camp No. 110 to Camp
No. 111. — At the summit of Cactus Pass, wo
found a large vein of red sienite trending north
and south ; then gneiss and quartziferous por-
phyry, and veins of white quartz.

The gneiss is contorted ; the schists dip to
the west. At Camp No. Ill, we found at the
east the Aquarius mountains, with a plateau
of lava conglomerate, and a mesa of lavas. No
diluvium.

February 4. — From Camp No. Ill to Camp
No. 112, (llf miles.)— Half of the distance
traversed to-day was upon granite, containing
some veins of quartz, and the other half was
upon diluvium.

February 5. — From Camp No. 112 to Camp
No. 113. — Granite appears now and then upon
the left, although it is often covered by drift.

158

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

forme enti&rement la droite il parait s'etendre
jusqu' au pied de Cerbat mont.

6 Fevrier. — Du No. 54' au No. 55'. — On
fait neuf milles tout le temps sur le diluvium,
tres puissant et a gros cailloux, dans le lit de
Big Sandy creek.

7 Fevrier. — Du No. 55' au No. 56', quatre
milles et demi. Sur le diluvium qui a 1,000
pieds d' epaisseur. Presque pas de terre vege-
tale.

8 Fevrier. — Du No. 56' au No. 57'. — Les
deux premiers milles sont sur le diluvium ;
puis on entre dans un canon a l'onest, au
milieu de montagnes de 5 a 800 pieds de hau-
teur, de granite, gneiss veines de quartz et de
feldspath. Direction general e sud sud est,
nord nord ouest.

9 Fevrier.— Du No. 57' au No. 58'.— Tout
le temps entre des collines granitiques. A
1' opposite du Camp 58', on a un cliff perpen-
diculaire avec table de lave basaltique venant
du nord est. Dans le diluvium qui forme une
petite mesa au camp meme, a cause de la
vallee qui s'elargit et du point d'affluence du
Bill Williams' fork avec Big Sandy creek, il
y a des cailloux de lave noire et rougeatre.

10 Fevrier.— Du No. 58' au No. 59', 6£
milles. — Une partie sur le diluvium; des mon-
tagnes granitiques autour ; et une mesa voloa-
nique a notre grauche ; on vient camper a l'en-
tree d'un nouveau canon.

11 Fevrier.— Du No. 59' au No. 60'.— Tout
le temps dans un canon, il suit en zig-zag
S.S.E. et quelquefois S.O., o'est un granite a
gros cristaux de feldspath blanc et rose, mica.
Noir, porphyre rouge quartzifere, quelquefois
dykes de trap de quartz allant S. 70° E. a N.
70° W. qui est la direction des montagnes de
Mogoyon. Le Mont Artillery au pied duquel
est notre camp est pointu avec flanc noir&tre,
comme de la lave volcanique diluvium plus
considerable dans le fond de la vallee.

12 Fevrier.— Du No. 60' au No. 61', 7£
milles. — On sort du canon a l'extremite, il y a
dutrap formantdeux grandes montagnes. La

This drift bounds our route on the right, and
appears to extend as far as the foot of Cerbat
mountain.

February 6. — From Camp No. 113 to Camp
No. 114.— We travelled nine miles upon the
diluvium, very thick, and containing large
pebbles, in the bed of Big Sandy creek.

February 7. — From Camp No. 114 to Camp
No. 115, (4| miles.) — We passed upon the di-
luvium, which lias a thickness of 1,000 feet.
There is scarcely any soil or vegetable mould.

February 8. — From Camp No. 115 to No.

116. — The first two miles are upon the dilu-
vium ; we then enter a canon in the west in the
midst of mountains from 500 to 800 feet in
height ; these are of granite and gneiss, and
traversed by veins of quartz and feldspar.
General direction south-southe'ast, north-north-
west.

February 9. — From Camp No. 116 to No.

117. — We were continually among granitic
rocks. Opposite Camp No. 117 we found a
perpendicular cliff with a table-like summit of
basaltic lava, which came from the northeast.
In the diluvium which forms a little mesa just
at camp, by reason of the widening of the valley
and of the point of affluence of Bill Williams'
fork with Big Sandy creek, there are pebbles
of reddish and black lava.

February 10. — From Camp No. 117 to No.

118. (6^- miles.) — A part of the way we were
upon the diluvium ; granitic mountains are
around us and a volcanic mesa at our left. We
came to camp at the entrance of a new canon.

February 11. — From Camp No. 118 to No.

119. — The whole distance traversed was in a
narrow and zig-zag canon, in a south-southeast
direction, sometimes southwest. The rock is
granite, with large crystals of white and rose-
colored feldspar and black mica. Also quartz-
iferous red porphyry and dykes of quartz and
trap running in the direction south 70° east to
north 70° west, which is the direction of the
Mogoyon Sierra. Artillery mountain, where
we are encamped, is pointed, and has a blackish
side, like volcanic lava. Diluvium in the bot-
tom of the valley is more abundant.

February 12. — From Camp No. 119 to No.

120. (6J miles.) — We leave the canon, and at
the end there is trap-rock forming two great

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

159

vallee s'elargit de nouveau et Ton est encore
entre deux couches de diluvium assez abond-
ant, et le meme que precedemment.

13 Fevrier.—Du No. 61' au No. 62', 6£
milles. — On passe des montagnes de trap amyg-
daloide, rougeatre du systeme N.S. qu'ont re-
leve des gres et poudingues rouges tertiaires,
probablement pliocene le gres rouge tres-fin et
tres friable, et a une couleur rouge -jaune tres
differente de la couleur du gres rouge plus
ancien. La vallee s'elargit, et est remplie de
diluvium plus petit que dans le canon. Le sys-
teme nord sud finit a peu de distance au sud
de nous, et une nouvelle cbaine du systeme
E.E.S. a O.O.N, commence au sud de nous.

15 Fevrier.—Du No. 61' au No. 62', 9£
milles. — On entre bientot dans un canon de
sept milles de long qui traverse une troisieme,
chaine des monts Cerbat, E.E.S., O.S. N. ce

canon [?] abrupte a montagne et cliff de

300 a 600 pieds, est forme de roches metamor-
phiques, conservant des indices de stratifi-
cation avec quelque plications. Les roches
sont des quartzites blanchies, par veines ; alter-
nant avec des micaschistes bruns noirs et verts ;
il y a des veines de fer dans le canon. Au sortir
du canon on a un immense developpement de
drift qui semble indigner le voisinage du Eio
Colorado Grande.

16 Fevrier.—Du No. 62' au No. 63', 6
milles f . — On entre de nouveau dans un canon a
un mille de distance ; ce canon est forme de ro-
ches trappeennes et de quartzites metamorphi-
ques. Puis on entre dans une region de pou-
dingue rouge et de gres rouges tertaires. Les
Poudingues sont redresses par le systeme Nord
sud qui vient [?] ici contre le sys-
teme Mogoyon. Vallee assez etroite.

11 Fevrier. — Du No. 63' au No. 64' 7
milles \. — L'eau disparait encore, le canon est
large mais le lit sableux de la rive, l'occupe en-
terement ; a gauche systeme Mogoyon a droite
systeme Cerbat ; memes roches eruptives et
metamorphiques, basal tiques, formant le som-
met d'une mesa, a droite pres de Camp 64\

mountains. The valley again widens, and we
are still between two beds of diluvium, which is
abundant, and the same as before.

February 13. — From Gamp No. 120 to No.

121, (6^ miles.) — We passed mountains of
amygdaloidal trap of a reddish color, and be-
longing to the north and south system. They
have raised seme Tertiary sandstones and con-
glomerates of a red color, probably pliocene.
This very fine red sandstone is very friable, and
has a reddish-yellow color, which differs from
the color of the older red sandstones. The valley
widens, and is filled with diluvium smaller
than in the canon. The north and south sys-
tem ends at a short distance south of us, and a
new chain of this system E.E.S. to W.W.N,
commences at the south of us.

February 15. — From Camp No. 121 to No.

122, (9J- miles.) — We soon entered a canon
seven miles long, which crosses a third chain
of the Cerbat mountains, whieh has the direc-
tion of E.E.S. and W.W.N. This canon is
abrupt, with a mountain and cliff of 300 to
600 feet high, formed of metamorphic rocks,
preserving indications of the stratification, with
some plications. The rocks are of quartzite,
whitened by veins, alternating with brown,
black and green mica-schists. There are some
veins of iron ore in the canon. On leaving the
canon we found an immense development of
drift which appears to indicate the vicinity of
the Great Colorado river.

February 16. — From Camp No. 122 to No.

123, (6f miles.) — At the distance of a mile from
camp we again enter a canon, which is compose •< 1
of trappean rocks and metamorphic quartzite ;
we then enter a region of red pudding-stone
and Tertiary red sandstones. The conglomer-
ates are raised up by the north and south sys-
tems, which interfere at this point with the Mo-
goyon system. The valley is rather narrow.

February 17. — From Camp No. 123 to No.

124, (Yi miles.) — We are yet without water.
The canon is wide, but is entirely occupied by
the sandy beds of the river. The Mogoyon
system is on the left, and the Cerbat mountains
are on the right. We find the same metamor-
phic and eruptive rocks. In the Cerbat mount-
ains there is much basaltic trap forming the
summit of a mesa on the right near camp.

160

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

18 Fevrier. — Du No. 64' au 65'. — On traverse
une vaste plaine de sable et nous Campons a,
l'entree d' un grand eanon, qui est entierement
dans le systeme Cerbat.

19 Fevrier— Du No. 55' un No. 66', 8 milles
|. — Tout le temps dans un canon dont les haut-
eurs sont couronnees par un trap basaltique, et
la base est des gres rouge argilleux, puis un
poudingue rouge, sans marque de stratification.
On voit, de temps a, autres, de larges dykes de
talcose scbiste et de gneiss. La couleur des
rocbes, en general, est brune rougeatre. Pas
de diluvium dans le canon.

20 Fevrier.— Du No. 66' au No. 67', 8
milles — Les quatre premiers milles on est
dans le meme canon avec gneiss porpbyroid
rouge, couronne par le trap basaltique au som-
met. A droite le canon s'elargit et Ton a
de vastes collines de 200 pieds de hauteur
de [?] drift et Ton arrive a 1' embou-
chure du Bill Williams' fork dans le grand
Colorado.

Au sud le Eio Colorado s' en gage dans un
canon etroit de meme roche rougeatre; au
nord, ou Ton remonte, la vallee est du drift
quaternaire, a un endroit on a ce gres rouge
avec couches de drift et argile redresses de 20°
et plongeant a l'ouest ; c'est le meme tertiaire
que precedemment.

21 Fevrier— Du No. 67' au No. 68'.— Sur
le diluvium quaternaire pres de la riviere,
quelques endroits d' argile rouge du tertiaire
releves et inclinant a l'ouest, angle 20°. A
trois milles a, Test, on a les montagnes de
gneiss porphyroide rouge du Cerbat systeme.
De l'autre cote de la riviere, Cerbat systeme
aussi. Hauteur des montagnes de 1,000 a
1,200 pied.

22 Fevrier.— Du No. 68' au No. 69', 10
milles. — On entre au sortir du camp dans des
montagnes qui viennent butter au rio ; ces
montagnes sont des gres et poudingues rouges
tertiaire m«tamorphiques et endurcis par des
traps basaltiques et amygdaloides, a, 7 milles
le long du Rio Colorado, on a des granites
serpentineux et des quartz protogenes tres
beaux. De l'autre cote du rio memes mon-

February 18. — From Camp No. 124 to No.

125. — We crossed a vast plain of sand and en-
camped at the beginning of a great canon
which is entirely in the Cerbat system.

February 19. — From Camp No. 125 to No.

126. — We were all the way in a canon the
heights of which are surmounted by a basaltic
trap, the base being of red argillaceous sand-
stone, then a red conglomerate without any
trace of stratification. We saw, now and then,
large dykes of gneiss and talcose schists. The
color of the beds, in general, is reddish-brown.
No diluvium in the canon.

February 20. — From Camp No. 126 to No.

127. (8£ miles.) — For the first four miles we
travel in the same canon with red porphyroid
gneiss, surmounted at the summit by red ba-
saltic trap. On the right the canon widens, and
we found vast hills,, two hundred feet in height,

of [?] drift. We arrived at the mouth of

Bill Williams' fork, in the Great Colorado.

South of the Colorado, we pass in a nar-
row canon of the same reddish rock. On
the north, where we ascend the valley is of
quaternary drift. At one place we found the
red sandstone, with beds of drift and red clay,
upraised at an angle of twenty degrees, and
dipping to the west ; it is the same Tertiary
formation before mentioned.

February 21. — From Camp No. 127 to No.

128. — We travelled on the quaternary diluvium
near to the river, and passed in some places the
red clays of the Tertiary, upraised and inclin-
ing towards the west at an angle of twenty
degrees. Three miles eastward we found
mountains of red porphyritic gneiss of the Cer-
bat system. The Cerbat system also extends on
the other side of the river. Height of the
mountains from 1,000 to 1,200 feet.

February 22. — From Camp No. 128 to No.

129. (10 miles.) — On leaving camp, we entre
mountains which abut upon the river. These
mountains are of metamorphosed Tertiary red
sandstones and conglomerates, and are hard-
ened by basaltic traps and amygdaloids. Seven
miles from camp along the river, we found
serpentinoid granite, quartzose, protogine, and
very fine. On the other side of the river we

RESUME AND FIELD NOTES.

161

tagnes qu' hier semblant a, une distance de deux
milles du rio.

23 F'evrier.—Du No. 69' cm No. 70'.— On
traverse des collines et mesa de drift du quater-

naire, la vallee va [?] retrecissant des deux

cotes du rio. On campe au pied d' une mon-
tagne d' ou le rio sort.

24 Fevrier. — Du No. 70' au No 71'. — Nous
traversons une grande montagne contrefort du
Cerbat. D'abord on a une rocbe rougeatre
brune, qui est du trap amygdaloi'de qu'a re-
convert le conglomerate, le gres rouge et l'argile
crayeuse du tertiaire que Ton voit non meta-
morpbique dans la vallee le jour precedent.
Puis on a de larges fllons de porphyre rouge
de quartzite, de trap, de gneiss, et enfin de
granite vers Test ; en revenant a la riviere on
a de nouveau le conglomerat et l'argile blancbe
crayeuse metamorphique. La vallee s'elargit
de nouveau et Ton a la vallee du Mojave. Ces
montagnes sont extremement abruptes, a pics
comme dans les Alpes ; hauteur au-dessus de
la riviere de 300 a 1000 pieds.

26 Fevrier.— Du No. 71' au No. 72', 10
milles. — Au milieu de la vallee d' alluvion de
terre noiratre du Eio Colorado des Mojaves.

27 Fevrier.— Du No. 72' au No. 73'— On
traverse le Rio Colorado. Pas de cailloux, tout
de sable et de boue noiratre. Couleur del'eau,
brun rongeatre.

1 Mars. — Rien de nouveau.

2 Mars. — Du No. 74' au No. 75'.— A 8 milles
de distance, ou rencontre les roches quartzeuses
eruptives de la premiere chain e Californienne.
On la traverse ; elle a quartre milles de large,
trap, conglomerat, metamorphique ; puis on a
une large plaine inclinee, recouverte avec un
peu d'alluvial, mais generalement des roches
granitoi'des decomposees sur place. Pas d'er-
ratique.

3 Mars.—Du No. 75' au No. 76'.— On finit

de traverser la plaine inclinee et Ton penetre

dans la seconde chaine de montagnes, ou il y

a de l'eau courante. Cette seconde cbaine est

formee de conglomerat rouge metaFAorphique,
21 t

saw the same mountains, as yesterday, which
appeared to be at the distance of two miles from
the stream.

February 23. — From Camp No. 129 to No.

130. — "We travelled hills and a mesa composed
of drift, (quaternary). The valley becomes
narrower, and we camped at the foot of a
mountain by the river.

February 24. — From Camp No. 130 to No.

131. — We travelled over a high mountain — a
spur of the Cerbat system. We at first found
a reddish-brown rock which is amygdaloid
trap, and which is covered by conglomerate,
and also the red sandstone and the chalky clay
of the Tertiary which we yesterday saw non-
metamorphic in the valley. We then found
large veins of red porphyry, of quartzite, of
trap, and of gneiss, and finally of granite,
towards the east. On returning to the river
we again found the conglomerate and the
white, chalky metamorphic clay. The valley
again widens, and we found the valley of the
Mojave river. These mountains are extremely
abrupt, with peaks, as in the Alps. Height
above the river from 300 to 1,000 feet.

February 26. — From Camp No. 132 to Camp
133, (10 miles.) — We travelled in the middle of
the alluvial valley of the Colorado ; this allu-
vium is black.

February 27. — From Camp No. 133 to Camp
No. 134. — We crossed the Colorado river ; no
pebbles ; everything of sand and blackish mud ;
color of the water reddish-brown.

March 1. — From Camp No. 134 to Camp No.

135. — Nothing new.

March 2. — From Camp No. 135 to Camp No.

136. — At the distance of eight miles we met
the quartzose eruptive rocks of the first Cali-
fornia chain. We crossed this chain and found
it four miles wide. Trap and metamorphic
conglomerate were found ; then we found an
extended inclined plain covered with a little
alluvium, but generally with the debris of the
granitoid rocks which decompose on the spot.
No erratics.

March 3. — From Camp No. 136 to Camp No.

137. — We ceased to traverse the inclined plain
and penetrated among the second chain of
mountains, where there is running water.
This second chain is composed of rod met*

162

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

recouvert par un trap phonolitique, no irtre,
brilliant, tout-a-fait basal tique. Pas d'erra-
tique.

4 Mars. — Du No. 76' au No. 77'.— On tra-
verse la seconcle cliaine qui est partout du trap ;
puis on a devant soi un vaste plateau, qui s'etend
jusqu' a la troisieme cbaine, le plateau de rocbe
eruptive, decomposee et recouvert en plusieurs
endroits d'un calcaire brechiforme, blancbatre
horizontal et Tertiaire. Hauteur du plateau,
4,500 pieds.

5 Mars.—Du No. IT an No. 78'.— On vient
de traverser la plaine ou.il y a du calcaire,
et Ton entre dans la troisieme cbaine, formee de
granite ampbibolique tres dur ; et Ton Aroit a
distance du trap repandu au sommet des mon-
tagnes.

7 Mars.—Du No. 78' au No. 79', 20 milles.—
On traverse la troisieme cbaine, qui a 5 ou 6
milles de long, tout de granite a hornblende,
tres-dur, excepte au nord du Camp 78' ou il
y a une roche blancbatre dioritique [?] on entre
dans un nouveau plateau incline, granitique
et Ton vient camper sur ce meme granite a
hornblende au pied de la quatrieme chaine.

&3fars.—DuNo. 79' auNo. 80', trois milles.—
On traverse la quatrieme chaine, qui est moins
elevee que la precedente, mais plus longue, elle
est formee pour 12 milles de granite quartzi-
fere. A 10 milles de distance au nord du
sentier on voit sept on huit petits cones
volcaniques ranges est ouest. On arrive au
sommet des cotes de drift, tres escarpees. Ce
drift a 800 pieds d' epaisseur, forme de gros
blocs tres-peu roules, avec sables. On arrive,
a, 12 milles a, droite, a, une grande montagne
de trap greenstone metamorphique ; cela finit
la quatrieme chaine ; on a pour 15 milles les
sables modernes du Eio Mojave, et un lac sec
avec efflorescence alumineuse et salee. L' eau
salee se trouve partout a \ pied de profond.
J'aivu aujourd' hui jusqu a la Sierra Nevada,
et il y a 9 ou 10 chaines nord sud, paralleles
entre la Colorado et la Nevada, avec quelques
petils pates de montagnes entre quelque cones.

morpbic conglomerate covered by black and
shining phonolitic trap ; also basaltic. No er-
ratics.

March 4. — From Camp No. 137 to Camp No.

138. — We crossed over the second chain and
trap-rock was everywhere visible ; we then
saw before us a vast plateau which extended
as far as the third chain. This plateau of de-
composed eruptive rocks is covered in several
places with a whitish limestone which is brec-
ciated, horizontal and Tertiary. Elevation of
the plateau 4,500 feet.

March 5. — From Camp No. 138 to Camp No.

139. — We arrived at the other side of the
plain, where there is limestone, and entered
the third chain, formed of very hard amphi-
bolic granite, and we saw in the distance
trap-rock spread out on the summit of the
mountains.

March 7. — From Camp No. 140 to Camp No.
141, (20 miles.) — We crossed the third chain,
which is five or six miles wide, and composed
of a very hard hornblendic granite, except at
the north of Camp No. 140, where there is a
whitish dioritic ? rock. We reached another
inclined plain of granitic rocks, and we en-
camped on the same hornblendic granite at
the foot of the fourth chain.

March 8. — From Camp No. 141 to Camp
No. 142, (31 miles.) — We crossed the fourth
chain, which is less elevated than the pre-
ceding, but longer ; for twelve miles it is
formed of quartziferous granite. Ten miles
north of the pass we saw seven or eight small
volcanic cones of a red color ; direction east
and west. We reached the summit of steep
banks of drift. This drift is 800 feet thick,
and formed of large blocks, but little rolled,
and sands. At the distance of twelve miles,
on the right, we reached a great mountain of
trap and greenstone, metamorphic, and which
ends the fourth chain. We followed for fifteen
miles the recent sands of the Eio Mojave, and
a dry lake covered with a salty and aluminous
efflorescence. Salt water is everywhere found
at the depth of six inches. I have seen to-day
as far as the Sierra Nevada, and there are nine
or ten north and south chains running parallel
between the Colorado and Sierra Nevada, with
some " pates de montagnes' ' between some cones.

RESUME AND

9 Mars.— Du No. 80' au No. 81' 13 milles.—
On acheve de traverser ce lac sale et sea, puis
les sables modernes qui s'elevent de chaque
cote sur les montagnes ; puis on vient camper
dans un canon au pied de la 5me chaine, ou il y a
des roches metamorphiques, des dykes de quartz
et de greenstone porphyroi'de. Direction du
dykes de quartz N. S.

10 Mars.— Du No. 81' au No. 82'.— On trav-
erse la 5me chaine qui n'est pas tres elevee,
elle est formee en partie de roches metamorphi-
ques, trap, quartzites, et appuyee contre la
cote de l'ouest ; il y a un enorme drift, 800 a
1,000 pieds d' epaisseur ; cailloux assez petits
entremeles avec du sable grisatre ; ces cailloux
sont un peu stratifies, non rayes, et quelques
couches sont cementees par du carbonate of lime,
et forment un poudingue. Au Camp 82' le
pays est plus decouvert, il y abeaucoup d' efflor-
escences salines aux environs du camp.

11 Mars.—Du No. 82' au No. 83', llf
milles. — On remonte la vallee du Mojave river,
qui est large avec mesa de drift et dunes de
sables. Quelques-unes des dunes de sables
s'elevent sur les montagnes au sud de nous.

13 Mars.—Du No. 83' au No. 84'.— On con-
tinue a remonter le Mojave ; la vallee est tres-
large ; c'est du drift assez petit. Pres du
chemin des Mormons, on a des montagnes au
nord de roches metamorphiques et de porphyre
rose. Ou. nons nons arretons, dans 1' apres
midi, il y a des roches metamorphiques.

14 Mars.—Du No. 84 au No. 85'.— On a les
memes roches qu' hier.

15 Mars.—Du No. 85' au No. 86'.— La vallee
du Mojave se retrecit trois ou quatre milles
avant 1' endroit ou Ton quitte la riviere, et Ton
voit les roches trapeennes et de mica schistes, se
trouvant jusqu au bord de l'eau. En quittant
le Mojave creek on s'eleve graduellement sur
un plateau forme de poudingue tertiaire.

16 Mars.—Du No. 86' au N. SI'.— On arrive
on sommet de Cajon Pass et Ton descend un
ravin dans le quaternaire ou drift. Ce quater-
naire, forme de sable endurci avec cailloux

FIELD NOTES. 163

March 9. — From Camp No. 142 to Camp No.
143. — We crossed to the other side of the dry
and salty lake ; there the recent sands succeed
and rise on the mountains on each side. We
encamped in a canon at the foot ot the fifth
chain, where there are metamorphic rocks,
dykes of quartz, and of porphyroid greenstone.
The direction of the quartz-dykes is north and
south.

March 10. — From Camp No. 143 to Camp
No. 144. — We crossed the fifth chain, which
is not much elevated ; it is in part formed of
metamorphic rock, trap quartzites, resting
on the side towards the west. There is an
enormous body of drift, from 800 to 1,000 feet
in thickness ; the pebbles are rather small,
and are intermixed with grey sand. They are
slightly stratified, not in red bands, and some
beds are cemented by carbonate of lime, and
form a conglomerate. At Camp 144 the coun-
try is more open, and there are many saline
efflorescences around the camp.

March 11. — From Camp No. 144 to Camp
No. 145, (llf miles.) — We ascended the valley
of the Mojave river, which is wide, and
bounded with plains, mesas of drift, and sand-
dunes. Some of the sand-dunes rise on the
mountains south of us.

March 13. — From Camp No. 146 to Camp
No. 147. — We continued the ascent of the Mo-
jave ; the valley is very wide, and there is
some fine drift. Near the Mormon road, we
have mountains at the north, of metamorphic
rocks and roseate-porphyry. There are meta-
morphic rocks where we stopped in the after-
noon.

March 14. — From Camp No. 147 to Camp
No. 148. — We find the rocks the same as yes-
terday.

March 15. — From Camp No. 148 to Camp
No. 149. — The Mojave valley narrowed three or
four miles before we left the river, and we
saw the trappean rocks and mica-schists as far
as the border of the stream. On leaving the
Mojave river, we gradually ascend a plateau
formed of Tertiary conglomerate.

March 16. — From Camp No. 149 to Camp
No. 150. — We arrived at the summit of Cajon
Pass, and descended a ravine in the quater-
nary or drift. This quaternary is formed of

\

164

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

roules par beds, ou isoles ; a stratification tout-
a-fait indistincte et confuse, excepte que la
masse est elevee de 15 a 45 degres par la
Sierra Nevada et plonge a Test.

Le canon a 4 milles de long et est forme sur-
tout d'une rochemetainorphique noiratre, avec
veines de quartz ; on trouve aussi du granite.

18 Mars.—Du 87' cm 88'.— On sort du Cajon
Pass, et Ton suit le pied ouest de la Sierra
Nevada. Les rocbes sont des sienites noira-
tres, comme avant hier. II y a des cones de
degagement des montagnes, avec cailloux
roules, pas tres-gros.

20 Mars.—Du No. 88' au 89'.— On est con-
stamment sur un sol recouvert d'herbe, sans
voir les rocbes sous-jacentes.

21 Mars.—Du 89' au 90'.— On trouve pres de
la ville de Los Angelos une petite ligne de col-
lines ou il y a du drift quarternaire.

sand, hardened, witb rolled pebbles, isolated,
or in beds. The stratification is quite indis-
tinct and confused, and the mass is upraised
from 15 to 45 degrees by the Sierra Nevada,
and dips to the east.

The canon is four miles long, and is princi-
pally formed of a blackish metamorphic rock,
with veins of quartz. We also find granite.

March 18. — From Camp No. 150 to Camp
No. 151 . — We left the Cajon Pass and followed
the western foot of the Sierra Nevada. The
rocks are blackish sienites, like those in the
journey of day before yesterday ; and there are
cones formed from the wash (degagement) of
the mountains with rolled pebbles, but not
very large.

March 20. — From Camp No. 151 to Camp
No. 152. — We were continually upon a soil
covered with grass, without seeing the under-
lying rocks.

March 21. — From Camp No. 152 to Camp
No. 153. — We found near the town of Los
Angeles a slight line of hills, where there is
quartenary drift.

CV.Ol.OW VI, SUCTION

wiaasasium mYm*u-rm mssma Damn.

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RESUME

OF A

GEOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE,

EXTENDING

FROM NAPOLEON, AT THE JUNCTION OF THE ARKANSAS WITH THE MISSISSIPPI, TO THE

PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES, IN CALIFORNIA. 1

BY JULES MARCOU, GEOLOGIST AND MINING ENGINEER.

Boston, July 26, 1854.

Dear Sir : In obedience to the instructions contained in your letter of the 2d July, dated
Washington city, D. C, I have the honor to send you the Resume of the geological reconnais-
sance that I made in connexion with your survey for the southern Pacific railroad, extending
from Napoleon, on the Mississippi, to the Pueblo de los Angeles, in California.

Having in my possession, as yet, neither the specimens which I collected, nor a good map of
the country passed through, and the time being very short which is left me to make my report,
I trust you will excuse the brevity of this Besume ; in which, however, I will endeavor to show
the principal geological results of my exploration, in order to give a general idea of the mine-
ralogical resources of the route with regard to the construction of a railroad.

Napoleon is situated on the alluvium of the Mississippi ; which extends on the two banks of
the river Arkansas as far as Little Eock, and is composed of a very fine-grained, reddish-yellow
earth. This alluvial deposite forms the richest agricultural portion of the State of Arkansas ;
and as it constitutes the whole of the basin which extends from Little Eock to the Mississippi,
and is always in horizontal beds, these rocks, it will be seen, offer no obstacle to the construc-
tion of a railroad.

At Little Eock the alluvium is replaced by rocks, forming a line of mountains, whose direc-
tion is from west west-south to east east-north.

These rocks continue for three or four miles along the river, and are formed of black slates,
of grey, quartzose metamorphic masses, traversed by veins of white quartz, having the same
direction as the mountains.

On the left bank of the Arkansas, two miles higher than Little Eock, the sandstones and lime-
stones of the carboniferous period begin to appear, resting horizontally upon the metamorphic
rocks. Here begins the fine coal-basin of Arkansas, which is only a continuation of the immense
eoal-field of Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, and which extends even to Fort Belknap, Eio Brazos, and

1 This Resume is reprinted from the preliminary or first report of Lieutenant Whipple, in 8vo., Chap. VI, p. 40.
(Reports of Pacific Riilroad Surveys, House Doc. 129 : Washington, 1855.)

166

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

to the Eio San Saba, Texas. Our survey has traversed this basis from the vicinity of Little
Kock to Delaware mount, a distance of more than four hundred miles, coal being found almost
everywhere from Petit Jean mountain to Coal creek and the Shawnee mountains. It forms a
vast reservoir for the sustenance of industry and commerce along the whole line of the Pacific
railroad. This carboniferous basin contains, in addition to the coal, an abundance of excellent
sandstone for building bridges and embankments, good beds of limestone for the manufacture
of lime, and also iron. Artesian wells will give an immense supply of water for agricultural
or other uses, and it may be predicted that this region will be one of the richest portions in the
southern States of the Union.

Immediately after crossing Delaware mount, which is formed of upheaved and dislocated beds
of carboniferous limestone, whose direction is from south-southwest to north-northeast, we meet
with horizontal beds of red and blue clay that belong to another geological epoch. This new
formation, corresponding to that which European geologists have agreed to call the Trias, holds
a very important position in the west ; and it may be said, with some few exceptions — such as
being sometimes covered by a more modern formation, or replaced by carboniferous, devonian,
or modern rocks — with these exceptions, the Trias may be said to form the whole of the immense
square comprised between the 96th and 114th degrees of longitude, and the 32d and 48th
degrees of latitude ; extending one arm to the Sault St. Marie, at the entrance to Lake Superior,
of which it forms a part of the contour.

This formation, which I was the first to notice and recognise in the west, (a Geological Map
of the United States and the British Provinces of North America, page 42,) attains a very con-
siderable development, and, according to 3ny observations, has a thickness of four or five thou-
sand feet. The few observations as yet made on this American Trias, and its great extent of
surface, prevent the establishment of very accurate divisions ; but, from what I have seen, I will
establish provisionally three principal divisions in these rocks.

The lower division is composed, especially at the base, of red and blue clay; the red predomi-
nates as you ascend, and becomes of a vermilion color; then red sandstone, with green spots and
a very friable texture, a massive and sometimes schistose stratification, intercalates with the
clays, and finishes by entirely replacing them; this sandstone is very fine-grained, like sand,
though some beds are quite coarse, and resemble a sort of conglomerate.

This lower group, which attains from two to three thousand feet of thickness, forms our whole
route from Topofki creek to Rock Mary. I connect with this lower group the red sandstone that
forms more than half the contour of Lake Superior, as well as that which forms the shore of the
Bay of Fundy, (Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ;) and also a part of the sandstone forming
Prince Edward and the Magdalen islands. In Virginia and New Jersey, that part of the red
sandstone which is without fossils and does not contain any gypsum, belongs to this lower
division, which closely corresponds t ) the lunten sandstein of the German geologists, the gres
bigares of the French, and to the upper New Red sandstone of the English.

The second group, or middle division, is formed of beds of red clay, containing, very often,
immense masses of white gypsum, amorphous, furrowed with veins of crystallized gypsum, with
interposition of strata of magnesian or dolomitic limestone, and frequently beds of rock-salt or
saliferous clay are found superposed upon the gypsum. The height of the beds in this middle
group is about fifteen hundred feet. We met with it on our route from Bock Mary to the arroyo
Bonito, or Shady creek, with the exception of two points, where the direction taken by our expe-
dition, near Camp No. 31, crossed strata of neocomien, and at Antelope Hills whitish-grey
sandstone, which belongs to the upper division of the Trias. I connect with this middle group
the gypsum found in the red sandstone of New Jersey; at Windsor, Nova Scotia; at Plaster
cove, Cape Breton; and at Prince Edward island. As to its synchronism with European forma-
tions, I regard it as corresponding to the muschelkalk of Germany. It contains, like the
muschelkalk of Wurtemberg, rock-salt and dolomite. The first fossils which I found in the
Trias were in this division. It was near Camp No. 33 — a full-grown tree, with branches, very

RESUMfi.

167

much resembling the Pinites Jleurotii of Dr. Mougeot, which is found in the New Eed sandstone
of the Val d' Ajol in the Vosges ; and this establishes a connexion between the New Eed of France
and that of America.

The third division, or upper group of the Trias, is subdivided again into two parts. The
lower is formed of thick beds of whitish-grey sandstone, often rose-colored, and even red ; and
the upper consists of beds of sandy calcareous clay, of very brilliant colors — violet, red, yellow
and white — in a word, of variegated marls. This upper portion presents a striking resemblance,
as to the rocks, with the Ilarnes irisees of France, or the variegated marls of England. With
the exception of the amaranth yellow color, which I have never seen in Europe, I could have
imagined myself transported to some points in the Jura or the Vosges. These rocks having
very little consistency, have been carried away almost everywhere by denudations. It is only
where they are capped by the Jurassic strata that they can be observed. The sandstone of this
third division is very much developed, with rather an indistinct and very massive stratification.
Its thickness is one thousand feet, while the variegated marls are only four or five hundred feet
thick — making a whole of fifteen hundred feet for the upper group of Trias. Upon our route
this sandstone forms the summits of the table-lands or mesas which extend on each bank of the
Canadian river, from Antelope Hills to the Llano Estacado ; then it forms the bottom of the
valley from Eocky Dell creek and the Plaza Larga to Anton Chico and the Canon Blanco. In
this group of Triassic rocks, numerous remains of petrified wood, and even of whole trees, are
often met with.

On the western declivity of the Sierra Madre, between Zuni and the Eio Colorado Chiquito,
there is really a petrified forest of trees thirty and forty feet long, divided into fragments from
six to ten feet in length, with a diameter of three or four feet, some being still upright enclosed
in the sandstone. These trees and remains of petrified wood belong nearly all to the family of
the conifers, and some to that of the ferns with arborescent stems, and to the Calamodendron.

I connect with this third division the red sandstones of the Connecticut valley, containing
foot-prints and fishes, as well as the coal-basin of Chesterfield county, in Virginia, and the red
sandstone in North Carolina, contrary to the opinion of Messrs. Eogers and Hall, who call it
Liasic, and even Oolitic. Its equivalent in Europe is, without doubt, the Marries irisees of
France, the Keuper of Germany, and the variegated marls of England.

The easy decomposition of the sandstone of this third group has given it all sorts of curious
forms, which have been compared to ruined temples, natural fortifications, natural mounds, or
to the forms of gigantic statues, rivals of those of Karnac and Nineveh. The celebrated Chim-
ney Eock, on the route to Fort Laramie, is entirely of this formation.

The strata of American Trias comprise valuable rocks for building a railroad. There are
found in abundance sandstone for embankments and bridges ; dolomite, which produces an
excellent hydraulic lime ; gypsum in incalculable quantities, for exportation ; and, finally, salt.

I have mentioned two points between Topofki creek and Anton Chico where the Triassic
rocks are covered by more modern formations. The first of these points is upon one of the trib-
utaries of the Washita river, near our Camp No. 31, where, upon the heights, are found the
remains of beds of a limestone filled with shells, which I connect with the neocomien of Europe ;
or, in other words, with the lower division of the cretaceous rocks. This limestone is only five
feet thick ; it is of a whitish-grey color, containing an immense quantity of Ostracea, which I
consider (provisionally) as the Exogyra ponderosa,1 Eoemer ; having the closest analogy with
the Exogyra of the neocomien of the environs of Neuchatel. As it is the first time the neocomien
has been recognised in North America, where, until now, only the green-sand and chalk-marl,
or lower chalk, have been found, I will add that these strata are much more developed at Fort
Washita, where Dr. Gr. C. Shumard has made a large collection of fossils, such as Pccten quinque
costatus, Panopea, Toxaster complanatus, and another species of Toxaster, all fossils or genera

1 Mr. Marcou subsequently determined this fossil to be Gryphcca Mchcri, Morton. — W. P. D.

168

GEOLOGICAL REPORT — THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

characteristic of the neocomien of Europe. Further, at Fort Washita, the neocomien is covered
hy the green-sand, containing very fine Hemiaster, large Ammonites, &c.

This neocomien has heen almost wholly destroyed and carried away hy denudations, for it is
only found on the summits of the hills, resemhling the remains of ancient huildings ; it occupies
actually only a width of three or four miles. Prohahly at the time of the deposite it covered
more space ; but, as at Fort Washita, where it has been very little denuded, it is ouly twenty-
five or thirty miles wide. This shows it to have been but a narrow bend in the immense basin
of the prairies.

The second point where the expedition passed from tbe strata of the Trias to a more recent
formation, is at the place where we crossed the Llano Estacado. The base of the Llano is
formed wholly of the upper strata of the Keuper, which reaches half way up the height of the
plateau. These strata, which are of a red color, are suddenly replaced by white sandstone, con-
taining numerous calcareous concretions, then by a compact white limestone, sometimes oolitic,
that forms the summit of the Llano. These beds are superposed in concordant stratification
upon those of the Keuper.

The Llano Estacado consists of two table-lands of different elevations. We crossed the lower
one but forty miles further west. Near Fossil creek and Tucumcari mount there is a second
steppe, one hundred and fifty feet higher than the first, also forming a vast mesa, which extends
to the Pecos. This second mesa is entirely formed of blue clay at the base, then yellowish
sandstone ; and, finally, the summit is again a very compact, white silicious limestone.

In the whole, this formation of the Llano Estacado does not exceed four hundred feet in
thickness.

This formation is not limited to the Llano, but it forms the summits of all the plateaux that
are seen to the north, in the direction of the Canadian river, and between the Canadian and
the Raton mountains, as well as the majority of the mesas, which extend from the Bio Pecos to
the foot of the Sierra de Sandia. Our survey has also met with it on the other side of the Rio
Puerco, forming with volcanic lava almost the whole road between Covero and the Sierra Madre,
and finally between Inscription Rock and the Pueblo of Zuiii, where it again forms mesas, which
extend in the direction of Fort Defiance and the Canon de Chelly. It will be seen that those of
the Llano Estacado occupy, geographically, a large place in the geology of the Rocky mount-
ains ; but as regards their relative age, they are still more important, for they fill a void here-
tofore left in the series of stratified rocks of North America ; these rocks belong to the Jurassic
or Oolitic epoch. Fossils are very rare in the sandstone and limestone ; but the beds of blue
clay which are found in the middle of this formation contain in abundance a Gryphcea which has
the greatest analogy with the Gryphcea1 dilatata of the Oxford clay of England and France, and
which I call, provisionally, Gryphcea Tucumcari, and a very large Ostrea having much resem-
blance to the Ostrea Marshii3 of the inferior oolite of Europe. I found also trigonia and a species
of Cardinia. This American Jurassic presents, at least thus far, one point of considerable
difference from the Jurassic of Europe and Asia, where such large quantities of Cephalopods are
found, such as Ammonites and Belemnites; while here the Ammonites are only found in the green-
sand, and the Belemnites in the marly chalk ; and even there these fossils are never so abundant
as in the corresponding strata of Europe.

'Mr. Marcou has since decided that this fossil is identical with G. dilaiala of the Oxford clay. I append here a copy of
his recent description of this shell, and of Ostrea Marshii. — W. P. B.

Gryphcea dilatata, Sow. (pi. , figs. 1, 2 et 3.) — Cette coquille, dont nous faisons repre"senter l'e"tat adulte et l'e'tat jeune,

ne laissera aucun doute sur son identity avec celle de 1' oxford-clay de l'Europe occidentale. La figure 3 represente une
forme plus allongee, que nous distinguons provisoirement a titre de varie'te', en lui assignant le nom de la montagne de
Tucumcari (Gryphaxi Tucumcarii) pres de laquelle nous l'avons trouve'e et qui est ce'lebre dans les plaines de l'Ouest. Les
caracteres essentiels de la charnieie sont d'ailleurs ceux du type de l'espece.

2 Ostrea Marshii, Sow. (pi. , fig. 4.) — La seule valve de cette coquille que nous ayons rencontre'e avec l'espece prece"-

dente, nous parait egalement ne pas diffe'rer de celle a laquelle nous la rapportons ; et est identique aux specimens d' Ostrea
Marshii, trouve'es en Angleterre et en France.

RESUME.

169

In a practical point of view the Jurassio rocks are rather poor.

The limestone will furnish lime ; the sandstone can he used for embankments and hridges,
and with some advantage over that of the Trias, for it is harder. Finally, in some locations,
as at El Ojo Pescado, near Zuni, in the neighborhood of Fort Defiance, at the canon of Chaca,
there are beds of bituminous coal in the clay, but only three or four inches thick, so that pro-
bably they would not be rich enough to be successfully worked.

Continuing our itinerary, we find that from Anton Chico to near San Antonio we are almost
constantly on white and yellow Jurassic sandstones. Three miles before reaching San Antonio
the Trias is met with again, which now is found upheaved and dislocated, the strata dipping to
the east; and for a space of five miles, all the strata are passed through with the gypsum, dolo-
mite, sandstone, and red clay — exactly the same sort of rocks that were seen before in the Trias
of the prairies. Immediately on leaving the village of Tigeras, which is situated in the middle
of the pass that crosses the Rocky mountains, called here Sierra de Sandia, and also Albuquer-
que mountains, black schistose clay is seen, belonging to the coal-measures, then greyish-blue
limestone, containing a great quantity of fossils. These last beds of schist and limestone are
very much upheaved, dipping to the east at an angle of thirty or forty degrees ; they rest on
metamorphic rocks. The principal fossils found in the limestone which belongs to the mount-
ain limestone or lower carboniferous, are the Productus semireticulatus, punctatus et flemingi, the
Spirifer striatus et Uneatus, Terebratula, Crinoids and Corals, which are all fossils very charcter-
istic of the mountain limestone of Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Ten-
nessee, Virginia, and Pennsylvania, as well as in Europe, and even in Australia and South
America.

We have not met upon our route with beds of coal ; but the presence of the black slate between
the mountain limestone and the red clay of the Trias, indicates the existence of beds of coal on
several points of the Rocky mountains ; and, indeed, the inhabitants of New Mexico pointed
out to me, in several places, beds of bituminous coal belonging, without any doubt, to the rocks
of the coal measures.

On quitting the last beds of limestone that rest upon the quartzose metamorphic rocks, we
find serpentine ; then we come upon masses of granite, somewhat sienitic, which form the centre
of the line of dislocation of the Rocky mountains. After going through the pass, which is
fifteen miles long, we come out in the plain of the Rio Grande del Norte, where the granite is
found covered with drift and alluvium, which form the whole plain as far as the right bank of
the river, where the formation is sandstone. This sandstone is white, friable, horizontal in
stratification, and forms almost the whole of the bottom of the valley which lies between the
Rocky mountains and the Sierra de Jemez, and Mount Taylor or Sierra de San Mateo. On
some points, as at Galisteo, it is covered by a greyish schistose clay, containing nodules of iron
and numerous plaquettes, composed of the scales and fragments of bones of fishes, belonging to
the genus Ptychodus. In this sandstone and clay, which rest horizontally on the upheaved beds
of the Trias, the Jurassic and the Carboniferous, are found the remains of Ammonites, Scaphite,
Inoceramus, and the Ptychodus, which indicates, for the relative age of this formation, tho creta-
ceous group, and, further, the white chalk of Europe. This fact is a new one in the geology of
America, where, until now, the true chalk has not been recognised ; and now the cretaceous is
here found to be composed of four divisions, precisely as in Europe : the neocomien, which I have
found on the Canadian, the False Washita, and at Fort Washita: the green-sand of Timber
creek, near Philadelphia ; the marly chalk of Bordentown, New Jersey, of the Bad Lands, Ne-
braska, and of Fort Washita; and finally the white chalk, or craie blanche, of New Mexico.
Besides, the discordance of stratification of the upper cretaceous of New Mexico, with all the
sedimentary rocks found there, indicates that this formation was deposited after the principal
dislocation of the Rocky mountains, which took place at the end of tho American Jurassic period.

From the Rio Puerco to the Sierra Madre, our route was constantly upon beds of Trias ami
Jurassic, which are often covered in this region by immense overflowings of lava, coining from
22 t

170

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

the ancient extinct volcano of Mount Taylor, that is seen some distance to the north. These
streams of lava which spread over the bottom of the valleys are exactly similar to the streams
from volcanoes in actual activity, and, like these, are destitute of vegetation, and give to the
country, where they are found, an arid and desolate aspect, named by the Mexicans, very appro-
priately, Mai Pais.

Near the culminating point of the Sierra Madre the Trias is replaced by the carboniferous
limestone ; then, for a distance of twelve miles, the rocks are eruptive granite, gneiss, and mica
schist. Beyond, on the western declivity of the Sierra, comes the carboniferous again, the beds
of the Trias, and finally the white and yellow sandstones of the Jurassic, with streams of vol-
canic lava in the valleys. Inscription Eock, and the whole mesa that extends nearly to Zuni,
are formed of the Jurassic rocks. A stream of lava spreads itself in the valley of the Ojo Pes-
cado, and terminates three miles from the pueblo of Zuni.

The valley of the pueblo and river of Zuni is of Triassic rocks, formed here, as in the prairie,
of sandstone and red clay, with dolomite and gypsum. On the plateau which we cross from
Zuni to the Colorado Chiquito, and from there till we arrive at a distince of five or six miles
from the secondary Cones of the great volcano of the San Francisco mountains, we are con-
stantly upon the Trias. These rocks are nearly horizontal upon the table-land, after having
dipped to the east and west near the Sierra Madre, where they are very much upheaved. As
we approach the Kio Colorado Chiquito, the strata incline to the north at a varying angle whose
maximum is fifteen degrees ; the heads of the strata looking towards the Sierra of Mogoyon,
which is seen forty miles to the south.

Shortly after quitting the Colorado Chiquito we found here with the last beds of the red clay
of the Trias, and, in concordant stratification, a magnesian or dolomitic limestone, with very
regular strata from half a foot to one foot in thickness. Several beds contain fossils badly pre-
served ; among which I recognised, however, a Nautilus, a Pteroceras, and a Belemnites. This
formation, which is placed between the Carboniferous and the Trias, corresponds, without
doubt, to the magnesian limestone of England, and is a new member which I add to the series
of secondary rocks in North America.

This magnesian limestone has only four miles of extent in the place where we crossed it, and
disappears beneath lava and volcanic ashes. T have observed it further to the west, and it
appears also to occupy eastward one of the lesser chains of the Sierra de Mogoyon.

From the Sierra of San Francisco to Cactus Pass the geology of the country we passed through
is very complicated, on account of the immense extinct volcanoes, which have covered with their
lavas and basaltio streams the sedimentary and granitic rocks that primitively formed this
region. The study of this part of our route was rendered still more difficult by the snow-storms,
that covered the ground with an immense white sheet during nearly the whole time of our ex-
ploration.

I will only say, in general, that there are four or five large extinct volcanoes over this space,
the lagest being that of San Francisco, which is twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea.
In places where the lava does not entirely cover the ground we find magnesian limestone, the
sandstone of the coal-measures, and the carboniferous limestone — the last containing fossils
in abundance, the principal ones being the Productus semireticulatus and Punctatus, and the Spi-
rifer striatus.

These stratified rocks are upheaved, and dip generally to the north-northeast, following several
lines of dislocation which belong to the chain of mountains called Sierra de Mogoyon, or Sierra
Blanca. In several places, and especially at Pueblo creek, beds of Old Ked sandstone are seen
below the lower carboniferous, and in contact with the gneiss and granite, similar to the Old
Red of the Catskill mountains.

This system of dislocation of the Sierra of Mogoyon, the direction of which is east east-south
and west west-north, is anterior to the apparition of the Rocky mountains and the Sierra Madre,
and I place it at the end of the Triassic period, and before the deposite of the Jurassic.

eesume.

171

From Cactus Pass to the junction of Bill Williams' fork with the Eio Colorado, we cross suc-
cessively three or four chains of mountains running from north to south, and crossing the chains
of the Mogoyon system. These mountains, which belong to the system of the Sierra Nevada,
and which we called the Cerbat mountains, are formed entirely of eruptive and metamorphic
rocks, with some beds of conglomerate and red clay belonging to the Tertiary epoch. I have
recognised along the course" of Bill Williams' fork several veins of argentiferous lead — an indi-
cation that silver is common in these mountains.

From the Rio Colorado to Monte we cross a country of mountains, formed almost wholly of
granitic rocks, with the exception of three plateaux, which are occupied by sandstones or lime-
stones, and modern sand. From the point where we quit Mojave creek to Cajon Pass, there is
a plateau formed by a white conglomerate sandstone of diffuse stratification, and much upheaved
by the Sierra Nevada. This sandstone is evidently Tertiary and posterior to the Eocene.

From Monte to Los Angeles, and at San Pedro, the road is constantly over modern alluvium,
which probably conceals beds of the Tertiary epoch.

In the Cajon Pass I found sienite, trap, and serpentine, exactly similar to those found between
Rough-and-Ready, Grass Valley, and Nevada City, and which contain the veins of auriferous
quartz.

As specimens were given to me at Los Angeles, very rich in gold, coming from the Cajon
Pass, it is more than probable that this point will one day be one of the richest places in
California.

In an economical point of view, the eruptive rocks which form almost the whole country
between Cactus Pass and Cajon Pass will furnish excellent materials for construotion — for
bridges, roads, and houses ; there are also very beautiful marbles, red porphyry, and especially,
I think, will be found there mines rich in silver and gold.

Before concluding, I will say that the relative age of the Sierra Nevada is much less than
that of the Rocky mountains, although the direction of the two chains is the same — that of the
meridian. The Coast range was raised at the end of the Eocene epoch, whose beds it has
upheaved and disloeated, as may be seen in the environs of Monterey ; and the Sierra Nevada
was raised later — at the end of the Miocene, or Pliocene. I have not been able to determine to
which of these two this system of dislocation it corresponds.

Accompanying this will be found a geological section of the country passed through, as cor-
rect as consistent with the short time I have left in making it.

I am, dear sir, your most obedient servant,

JULES MARCOU,
Geologist and Mining Engineer of the Southern Pacific Railroad Survey.

A. W. Whipple,

First Lieut. Top. Engineers, U. S. A.,

in charge of Exploration of Route near 35th Parallel.

REMARKS ON THE MAP AND SECTION.

THE MAP.

The Geological Map accompanying this report exhibits the line of the survey,, with the camps,
from Fort Smith to the Pacific. It also includes the valley of the Arkansas down to its inter-
section with the Mississippi river. The scale adopted is the same as that of the General Map
of the Territories now being compiled and engraved in the office of the surveys. This scale is
1 : 3,000,000, or about forty-seven miles to one inch. The whole line is thus brought into a
small compass, and can be easily referred to when consulting the report. Its width being less
than the length of the quarto page, does not require it to be folded in more than one direction
when placed in the report. The trail is indicated by a broken line, and the principal camps by
numbers ; the intermediate camps being indicated, but not numbered.

The mountains are not shown by the ordinary shading used in maps, but by broken and
slightly overlapping black lines, which are placed in the direction of the trends of the ranges.
These lines, with the coloring used for the granitic rocks of which the ranges are nearly all
composed, sufficiently indicate their position on the map. The scale is so small that some of
the minor details of the boundaries of the different formations were necessarily sacrificed, and
it was not possible to represent some of the dykes of trap by colors, of the size required by con-
formity to the scale. The outlines or boundaries of the formations are shown by a fine dotted
line ; and, except in a few instances, the attempt to show their extension far beyond the line of
exploration has not been made.

GEOLOGICAL SECTION.

The Geological Section which accompanies this report is designed to give an approximate
representation of the chief features in the geology of the country, on and near the line of
Lieutenant Whipple's survey. This line, as is known, extends from the Mississippi river west-
ward to the Pacific ocean, at San Pedro, and for the greater part of its course is in the vicinity
of the 35th parallel of north latitude. The line of the section does not, however, follow the
line of the survey throughout its whole course, but has been modified so as to respresent, as
nearly as possible, the configuration of the region on a direct line, avoiding the detours to the
north and south unavoidable in the operations of the survey. The barometrical and viameter
measurements of Lieutenant Whipple have served as the basis for the section, and the height and
distances where the two lines correspond have been taken from them. The scale adopted for
these representations on the section is two miles to one inch, or half an inch to one mile ; the
scale for vertical and horizontal distance being equal. The profile of the section consequently
shows, as nearly as possible, the slopes and. grades with their natural inclination, and, indeed,
is intended to be a truthful miniature representation of the relief of the country.

The belt of country represented extends over twenty-eight degrees of longitude, or about
1,590 miles from east to west. The whole distance along the circuitous line of the survey is
2,075 miles ; but the section is shortened and made more direct in its course, so that it repre-

BEMARKS ON THE MAP AND SECTION.

173

sents 1,703 miles. Its entire length is 851.5 inches, and it is divided into twenty-three lines,
each one, except the tipper and lower, being 38.7 inches long. It was deemed best, even at the
expense of marring the appearance of the section by crowding the lines, to place the whole
representation on one sheet, in order to present a connected view from one end of the line to the
other.

In constructing the section, it was necessary to consider that one prominent object was to
present a view of the geology directly along the line as it was surveyed. To represent on the
section, however, the succession and character of the rocks along the trail exactly as they occur,
would not permit the geological structure of the region to be exhibited. The detours to the
north and south were chiefly parallel with the trend of the rocks, and consequently they could
not be represented on a section in which structure was to be shown. It was of course important
that the line of section should be transverse to the principal lines of structure. To secure this,
and at the same time to present a fair view of the geology along the trail, the line indicated
below was adopted, and wherever it does not coincide in direction with the trail, it is drawn
upon the map.

DIRECTION OF THE SECTION.

From the Pacific ocean at San Pedro, the seaport of Los Angeles, by the trail to Camp 142.

From Camp 142 in a straight line to Camp 139.

From Camp 139 by the trail to Camp 133.

From Camp 133 in a straight line to Camp 110.

From Camp 110 by the trail to Camp 106.

From Camp 106 in a straight line to Camp 97.

From Camp 97 in a straight line to Camp 96.

From Camp 96 in a straight line to Camp 94.

From Camp 94 in a straight line to Camp 90.

From Camp 90 in a straight line to Camp 81.

From Camp 81 by the trail to Camp 72.

From Camp 72 in a straight line to Camp 70.

From Camp 90 by the trail to Camp 67.

From Camp 67 in a straight line to Camp 65.

From Camp 65 by the trail to Camp 63.

From Camp 63 to the Eio Grande at Albuquerque.

From Albuquerque in a straight line to Camp 58.

From Camp 58 in a straight line to Tucumcari hill.

From Tucumcari hill in a straight line to the eastern bluff of the Llano Estacado, south of
Camp 42.

From Camp 42 in a straight line to Camp 35.
From Camp 35 in a straight line to Camp 19.

From Camp 19 in a straight line to the eastern side of Delawaro ridge, south of Camp 17.

From Camp 17 by the trail to Fort Smith.

From Fort Smith in a straight line to Little Eock.

From Little Eock in a straight line to Helena, on tho Mississippi river, about fifty miles south
of Memphis.

It would be better for geological purposes that the section should continue its westward di-
rection from the valley of the Mojave at Soda lake, and not follow the trail in its bend to the
south and passage of the Bernardino Sierra at the Cajon Pass. If it was extended directly west
from the Mojave to the Sierra Nevada, at the Tejon Pass, or at the sources of Kern river, it
would be transverse to the trend of the mountains, and presont a view of the Great Basin ;ind
the metamorphio rocks of the Sierra, with the Miocene strata at their western base. The allu-
vial and lacustrine depositee of the Tulares would also be shown, and the uplifted Tertiary

174

GEOLOGICAL REPORT THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL.

strata of the Coast mountains beyond. These formations are nearly parallel with the lines of
uplift along the Mojave, and should he represented on the same section with them, if it were
intended to show fully the geological structure from the Pacific to the Mississippi, along the
35th parallel. As, however, the line of survey did not extend across the Great Basin and reach
the Sierra Nevada, and as the geology of that portion of the country is considered in my report
on the geology of the routes surveyed in California by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, Topo-
graphical Engineers, I do not extend the section in that direction, but follow the line of the
survey, which, although deflected to the south, intersects the mountains at nearly right-angles
with their trend.

The portion of the section which conforms least to the line of the survey is between the Colo-
rado and the Big Sandy rivers, or from Camp 133 to Camp 110, in Cactus Pass. Here the line
of section is direct, and transverse to the trends of the ranges, and avoids the long curve to the
south through the valley of the Colorado and the Hawilhamook or Bill Williams' fork.

The next point of divergence of the line of section is at Camp 106, where it extends in a
straight line to Camp 97, and permits the horizontal position of the carboniferous strata to be
conspicuously shown. In order to permit the full breadth of the Llano Estacado to be repre-
sented, I have carried the line eastward from the Sandia mountains over its surface, intersecting,
however, the ravines which isolate Tucumcari hill from the plateau. If the section followed
the trail in the valley of the Canadian, the full width of the Llano would not be represented by
many miles, unless it was sketched in beyond the trail. The line of section being thus broken,
is resumed again at Camp 42, nearly north of the eastern bluff of the Llano.

From the Antelope Hills to the eastern base of Delaware ridge the line is direct, but yet
coincides very nearly with the trail, from which it is not far removed at any point. The direc-
tion of this part of the section is nearly southeast, and it thus makes a favorable section of
Delaware ridge, which trends northeasterly. It is believed that if the section were continued
in this direction to the Gulf of Mexico, it would present the best view of the geological structure
of the line, for at this point the formations trend northeasterly, and are traversed by the survey
in a nearly parallel line. If the section continued southeast beyond Delaware ridge, the out-
crops of the granite along Boggy creek would be intersected, and the succession of Carboniferous,
Cretaceous, and Tertiary formations would appear beyond. The granite of Boggy creek may
be regarded as a portion of the same line of uplift which appears at the Hot Springs of Arkansas
and at Little Bock. It was deemed best, however, to confine the section as much as possible to
the line of survey, and thus a great breadth of carboniferous strata is represented between
Delaware ridge and Little Rock — a much greater breadth than would appear if the line of sec-
tion were transverse to the trend. The fact that these ridges of sandstone are for the greater
part of the distance parallel with the section should be remembered when it is examined.

In general, where the line of section coincides with the trail, the formations, as they appear
along the trail, are shown ; but in some cases important or interesting features which occur
within a short distance either north or south, are represented as if they were intersected by the
trail. Where the line of section does not coincide with the trail, but diverges from it, the
formations which it intersects are represented if they are known or can be correctly inferred,
but in some cases outcrops of strata found along the trail are referred to the line and represented
as if intersected by it. Examples may be found in the representation of Rock Mary, which
rises north of the section-line, and in the natural mounds near Camp 37, and the cretaceous
deposites near Camp 39. Sugar-Loaf mountain, although only thirty miles south of Fort Smith,
is sketched in upon the section near Dardanelle rock, it being regarded as forming a portion of
that line of elevation. This mountain might, however, be very properly represented near Fort
Smith, as that portion of the section is nearly parallel with the strata, and does not purport to
be a representation of the structure of the region.

The several volcanoes are sketched in above the other formations, and are not represented in
section, as neither of them were ascended and the forms of their craters ascertained.

REMARKS ON THE MAP AND SECTION.

175

In those portions of the section which do not follow the line of the trail, and which represent
a region over which no measurements were made, the distances of the important points were
determined hy measurement upon the maps. Some of these measurements were made upon the
manuscript general map of Lieutenant Whipple's report, and others on the general map of the
office and on the geological map. The scale of these maps is so small, compared with that
of the section, that slight inaccuracies in measuring, or in the maps, hecome very apparent
when placed on the section. If, therefore, the distances on the section he compared with those
on the geological map, many unimportant discrepancies, arising from these several sources of
error, may doubtless he found ; hut they are helieved to he, in general, of little consequence to
the accuracy of the geological representation for which the section is intended. In many cases,
also, it will he found that the distances between the camps, where the section is said to he along
the line of the trails do not correspond exactly with those obtained by the viameter measure-
ments, and given in the tables of the report. This discrepancy arises from the disregard of the
short and circuitous Winding of the road, which increases the distance between the camps, with-
out adding any new features to the geology. Indeed, in some instances the distance between
the camps was taken by the dividers from the map and transferred to the section, without
regard to the distance measured by the viameter and recorded in the report.

The level of the trail is shown on the section by a straight and continuous fine line, and the
elevations and bluffs are generally sketched above it, as may be seen along the representa-
tion of the Llano, where the bluff's, or escarpments, rise above the general line of profile.
In this case the trail line forms a convenient line of separation between the colors representing
the cretaceous strata and the red sandstone containing gypsum below, and is made use of
for that purpose. When, however, the trail leaves the valleys and ascends to the surface of
the plateaux, the upper line of course becomes the line'of trail, and the line below, dividing
the cretaceous, Or other formations, from those next below, is not continuous but broken. All
the lines dividing one formation from another are continuous, when above the trail, but on
descending below that line — below the line of observation — they are broken, dotted, and
show that the position of the formations is not accurately known.

As the scale adopted did not permit altitudes of less than 500 feet to be very distinctly repre-
sented, it became necessary to slightly distort the altitudes of portions of the lino in order to
make them distinctly visible. The alluvial deposites of the Mississippi could hardly be
separated by the eye from the base-line of the profile if they were drawn according to the
scale. They have, therefore, been distorted. So, also, the hills at Little Rock, which are
probably less than 300 feet in elevation, are sketched as if they were 600 feet. The bluffs
also along the valley of the Colorado Chiquito, and in general the depths of the cations and
channels of the streams, are slightly overdrawn. These departures from the scale are, however,
of little importance, and do not materially affect the truthfulness of the section.

Of course, the greater part of the representation of those portions of the strata which are
below the surface is ideal, and is based only upon the indications presented at the outcrops
and by the form of the surface. The representations might have been confined to the out-
crops which were seen above the trail, leaving the space between the profile-line and the base-
line blank ; but although this would be sufficient for the geologist, it would fail to eonvej
an idea of the geological structure of the line to the general reader. The probable position
of the underlying rocks is shown ; that their position and relation to each other is accurately
displayed is not claimed. It is most probable, as has already been explained, that the carbon-
iferous formations are much more bent and flexed than appears in the parts of the section
east of the horizontal outcrops at the Aztec and Aquarius mountains.

MISSISSIPPI HIVKIIto "hie BVCIFIC OCIiVN

II K O 1, O 11 1 (' A 1. S H (' T 1 '> N

MISSISSIPPI UIVKH TO T1IK PACIFIC OCKAN

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