tahini teriestgheeketibir LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN g55 73S Un3iw Return this book on or before the Latest Date stamped below. University of Illinois Library Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign http://www.archive.org/details/reportuponunited01 whee ENGINEER DEPARTMENT, U. S. ARMY. pane’ Oan UPON UNITED STATES GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF THE ONE HUNDREDTH MERIDIAN, IN CHARGE OF CAPT. GEO. M. WHEELER, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, U. 5S. ARMY, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS, U.S. ARMY. PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE HONORABLE THE SECRETARY OF WAR, IN ACCORDANCE WITH ACTS OF CONGRESS OF JUNE 23, 1874, AND FEBRUARY 15, 1875. IN BEVEN VOLUMES AND ONE SUPPLEMENT, ACCOMPANIED BY ONE TOPOGRAPHIC AND ONE GEOLOGIC ATLAS. VOL. I—GEOGRAPHICAL REPORT. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, 1889. ea —¢ ‘ is) Print Oc Atay < AA {? YUN 7 = TABLE OF CONTENTS. Hetterorpstransmitbalee eect acis.csisee = scr «ceyscee crane se sok gone cae cos Hinton ction were some Ce eset Jace aerebn, cerca cee noneannenkee conics CHAPTER I. Areas occupied—Passes, Western Rim of Great Interior Basin— Altitudes and distances Yosemite Valley and summary of re- sults 5 Gi Ug! iG SiS" 0.9 Bea ETS aN aI ca ere teat oat ee or m ape dg 6956.6. DOOR OMA AG Ser CO eR See I ace eee nn aa APPENDIXES. A. List of certain latitudes, longitudes, etc..................0..00.200-00- B. Description of atlas sheet maps. Pate svete ius meat kctegeotemac eis mein wisi aos C. Formulated methods and soning with Alneenens te Ce ore D. Notes on survey and disposal of public domain, with map... -. Bee Re E. Considerations upon National Government ied and Marine surveys, with HN) caestinero pee eee F. Memoir upon the Voyages, Discoveries; Prenieratione: and Surveys to and at the West Coast of North America and Interior of the United States west of Mississippi River, from 1500 to 1880, with notes on certain old maps and later bibliographical and other refer- ences to geographical co-ordinates for permanent official ae graphic Atlas of the United States.............-.... G. Synoptical table of contents of quirto volumes with summary list Ge re ports and separately published maps (topographic, land class- MH CATION AN ee COLO SIC) eee wees) Se eee oo esse cece H. Origin, organization, functions, progress, and cost of geographical surveys west of one hundredth meridian..............--......-.---- Nd exe sete sisview Ses See eS OSU IO A. CEE ee SOA SU a STG CO Oe eS 21-146 . 147-171 172-210 911-229 223-227 - 481-745 747-760 LIST OF PLATES. I. Section of a cave in Cave Valley, Nev............... opposite. . II. Alpine lake in the Sierra Nevada, near Camp Independence, Cal. opposite. . Ill. Kearsarge Mining Works, Kearsarge district, near Camp Inde- pendence, Cal....... SSE HAGA Oe ea OSES opposite. . IV. Scene at mouth of cation of the Virgin River, near Shonesburg, Withee nist ie ace cies cc sabe Gap evacuees chek opposite. - V. Dripping Pool, Kanab Cation, near the Colorado..... opposite. . VI. Headwaters of Paria Creek, from rim of the basin, Southern WEIN. 5 -sgbs 8505 Gane oomasd scanee cdes Seaeneaode NN tsar VII. El Vado de los Padres, Colorado River........._. .-. opposite... VIII. Crossing of the Colorado River near mouth of Paria Creek. opposite. . IX. Aboriginal life in the Navajo country, near old Fort Defiance. opposite. . X. Sandstone walls in Cafion de Chelle, N. Mex......... opposite. . XI. Cooley’s Park, Sierra Blanca Range, near Camp Apache, Arizona. opposite. - XII. Alpine lake, summit of Cerro Blanco, near Fort Garland, Colo. opposite. - XIII. Beaver Park, valley of Conejos River, Colo......-... opposite. . XIV. Lost lakes, head of Conejos Kiver, Colo., glacier peak in the GIS CANCE freerpeptee ee phe regerieiaie ae tieee eae scesevaiere opposite. . XV. Fisherman’s Peak or Mount Whitney, highest of the Sierra Ne- vada, near head of Kern River, Cal............... opposite. . XVI. The start of the river party from Camp Mohave, Arizona. opposite. . XVII. Black Caiion of the Colorado River, camp 8......... opposite... XVIII. Maimum, a Mohave Indian of the river party ........ opposite. - XIX. Black Cafion of the Colorado iver, from Mirror Bar. .opposite. XX. Month of the Lower Grand Cation of the Colorado kiver. opposite. . XXI. View looking south into the Grand Caton of the Colorado itiver, fromusheavawitz! Orossing@sss-4-225 se. ses 22 n= opposite. - XXII. Grand Cation of the Colorado River, near mouth of Kanab, Wash. opposite. . XXIII. Grand Cation of the Colorado River, near Paria Creek. . opposite. . XXIV. Colorado River party reaching mouth of Diamond Creek. opposite. . XXV. Mountain stations (Form I Horizontal Sketch); scale, 1 inch to1 milen(APPLOXIM ALC) ieee eteaeee coerce nies eels opposite. . XXVI. Mountain stations (Form II, Horizontal Sketch) ; scale, 1 inch to ATOR LCOS etre steel afer etatsiccclsreleice eecm tee ence: opposite. . 5 LIST OF PLATES. XXVII. Main route and side meanders, and topographical stations (Form III), scale, 1 inch to 1 mile ..-..-.-.----------------- XXVIIL. Topography (sample from plotting sheet); scale, 1 inch to 2 miles XXIX. The Island of Antilia, by Benincasa, 1463 _--.. Deis 8 Snes oa XXX. America, from Ptolemeus, Edit. Rome, 1508 ....-..---------- XXXI. America, from a Frankfurt globe, about 1520, and from map of North America, by Ortelius, 1589 ........-....--.---------- XXXII. North America, by Zaltieri, 1566 ..-.-......--.---5.---<---=-- X XXIII. From “ Hondius” Ed., 1609, Amsterdam ..--..::.-.-.-.---3.-- XXXIV. North America, from Purchas, 1625... ....-.....-+-.-+----+---- XXXY. From map of North America, by F. de Wit, Amsterdam, about (| ie een Ran, Bin 0. em OE SGOU Reson mseee XXXVI. From map of North America, oo Toht Senex, F. R. 8., 1710. XXXVII. From map of North America, by Edward Wells, M. Ne pli eta XXXVIII. From map of North America, by Thomas Jeffreys, 1782 BAB Oo, LIST OF MAPS. 1. Map showing routes of parties exploring Grand Canon of the Colorado; bo scale, 1 inch toGmiles....-” 222. -s2schise step i= opposite. . Sketch indicating advancement of public land, military, and geographical surveys, west of Mississippi River; scale, 1:3000000. . . opposite. - 3. Sketch indicating distribution of the United States into convenient dis- tricts for Government topographic surveys, with index rectangles: for topographic atlas...........-----00 see eee esses opposite. - Page. 356 397 498 499 5OL 504 506 507 509 510 511 512 170 412 436 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Unitep Srares Enewerr Orrice, GerocrapuicaL Surveys West or THE One Hunprepti MeErIpiAn, Washington, D. C., June 1, 1879. Genera: I have the honor to forward herewith manuscript of Volume I, the last of the quarto reports of this office, the publication of which is authorized by acts approved June 23, 1874, and February 15, 1875. This affords a pleasing opportunity once for all to express my thanks to the large number of assistants, officers, civilians, and others whose genuine enthusiasm for their various tasks has alone made possible the systematic production of so great an amount of geographic, geologic, and other scientific material. The aid extended by the supply"branches of the War Department has added materially to the augmentation of results. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, GEO. M. WHEELER, Captain of Engineers, In charge. Brig. Gen. H. G. Wrieur, Chief of Engineers, United States Army, Washington, D. C. Nore.—This report, brought substantially to a close in June, 1879, was not presented for publication until 1887, from press of other duties and sub- sequent prolonged illness. 7 ' ay ; i ' ’ i i - sy - - ' J ‘ © uo ‘ a . ¢ ‘ i ee Le: . i 7 ; & ai! ’ ' a) eat a. 14) - 4 i i ¢ 4 ' - U ft ‘ i n = - ie : 7 . - : a ran 7 ' : i ae . ; - * ' i i yt ’ : 1 é ‘ ‘ . \ e - 9 ? . ° = a ‘. a ? - 7 fi F = ; 7 . ' a 7 7 n 7 * - . ‘=k .” > wor 7 ia + é : a : tc Cpe i ny y § i id _ 5 | ~~ 4 =e 7 . | es 7 2 i j == t ‘ fi \ 7 mn im : ; me . be : - : = = r= ae t : * = 1 a ’ : 5 ‘ we i H : e ~ ‘ ‘ ‘ ww 5 © : cy; ‘% bs 7 : ’ ' A : ‘ + 7 3 * ; ak i - t ‘ 4 * ' 7 . : a i i mI , i ‘ + 7 ; a ' ' ‘ - , } ; - 7 = 7 : = 7 , ' D i He 7 p. 7 - ; ey ~~ t : be 2 = 4 5 i s* oo LJ 7 c y 1 ‘ : - - 4 : t ‘i ‘ : 7 5" a s 5 i = i fe , , 0 7 ; ‘ HE 5 i t f ae We = } A A : - F 7 ’ f : ‘ = 7 i s : ) ins 7 7 os ; i : . ~ : ; 2 es 2 , o e. - 7 ; o “9 t ' 7 . i = . } 7 aa f z = i 7 1 1 1 - = ' ; ‘ ; 7 ‘ is : : \ ¥ ae : 2 ; ' 7 4 a 7 i‘ 3 a = 7 se ft 1 . 4 - + : 7 a : ai i : : t ' i ~ "3 » ¢ 7 7 = _ . a : : -.* ri > x - = 2 - ( Ls : - 1‘ i = = % F Loc¥t i ~ \ - =) ih ’ 7 y ; x © t . i : : 4 f : i i = . = 9 - ‘ ' . ‘ = f - 1 ° 7 * ' es iy ; o = 4 ' A a 1 i i e \ 7 ' 5 { vs 7 oni ' = ; : ‘ j ’ p i 7 - al ¥ . | | - . ‘ . T i = . e “ a) “ ; + a t+ 7 - 7 = : “ | i ’ y " a 7 . - ¥ = ’ - ' - : ! 2 - bi ’ ‘ 7 1. 2 rs j i : 7 = . = L j ’ > | i . qe = : 7 : ; re - . a . al- - 7 oD i ' 7 , ct : \ ; ri a 1 1 INTRODUCTION. The area within the United States west of the one hundredth meridian of longitude (1,443,360 square miles) embraces, entire, the basins of the Colorado (270,000 square miles), Interior (208,600 square miles), Coast (100,900 square miles), and Sacramento (64,300 square miles) ; also, that part of the Columbia (215,700 square miles) south of the forty-ninth par- allel, and portions of the basins of the Missouri (338,200 square miles), Rio Grande (123,000 square miles), Arkansas (75,500 square miles), Brazos (34,800 square miles), and the Red River of the North (8,360 square miles). Of the above approximation 993,360 square miles is of a mountainous structure, the many ranges surrounding interior plateaux and valleys, while the remainder (450,000 square miles) is composed of the ‘‘mauvaise terre” of the northern,“ plains” of the interior, and the ‘“ staked plains” of the southern, latitudes. The approximate average elevation above sea of the total area west of the one hundredth meridian is approximately 4,225 feet, the volume of the mass above this level being 1,155,201 cubic miles, while the approximate average altitude of the area of 359,065 square miles covered by the survey is approximately 5,000 feet, or corresponding to a volume of 340,024 cubic miles. The Colorado, Columbia, Missouri, Rio Grande, Arkansas, Sacramento, Brazos, Pecos, and Red Rivers are the principal lines of drainage of the fol- 9 10 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. lowing approximate total lengths and parts thereof comprised within the above area: Length Len Name of river. en west of 100th Name of river. Sikes west of 100th bey meridian. EAU meridian. Miles. Miles. Miles. Miles. aS Colorado!.<-- 0+ .<-2-n0 aes 1, 678 1, 678 || 6. Sacramento .....-.--- 270 270 Qe Colum bidva-=- ease cea eee 1, 350 1=350)||0 7. pBrazos-sseces steno eee 770 150 S5-/MiISS0UTI=-2s.ceose once 2, 824 1,600 |} 8. Red River ........-.- 1, 200 175 4: Rio Grande, s225 seen. 1, 800 T5204 9 ph Ocos) cee -e ee ee tesele 600 600 Bie Arkarisas 2 -o22-5ae5-ce= 1, 539 500 The Great Interior Basin that, on account of its present state of desic- cation, is without outlet to the sea, has its own system of drainage and reservoirs, marked by a number of minor streams, such as the Humboldt ) ? >} Sevier, Bear, Carson, Walker, Truckee, and Owens Rivers. The following determined volumes have been noted for the streams given herewith : Total Total drain- | Length in area| Navigable west of 100th meridian. No. Name of river. length, a age area, Fi west ete a proximated. approximated. meridian. ; iles, To what point. approx. Miles. Square miles. Miles. 1 | Loweror main Miasissippi 1, 286 1, 256, 050 0 | All east of 100th meridian ---....-. 0 23 PW 8200 ence cm ee 500 13, 850 0 | Not navigable 0 3 | Saint Francis 320 10, 500 0) ee O™t Pessoa aoe see eee 0 ASR ebeeaeeeteaerecnaeesen 1, 200 97, 000 175 Nob neyieeble west of 100th me- 0 ridian. Hi PATKanGa8vas--s on ose sae 1,514 189, 000 500))==-= CO eS CO PSS OAR CHEBCB LE HHe 0 6 | Upper Mississippi. --...-. 1, 330 169, 000 0 | All east of 100th meridian .......-. 0 Tl MISSOUDL. oases sine 2, 908 518, 000 1,600 | To Fort Benton 1, 225 Bi | Columbians. cues. c-sse2ec2 1,350 215, 700 1,350:|) TotheiCascades\-=--. 2. - 32-7 -ecce: 130 9.) Sacramento --.....-....- 270 64, 300 270 | Tehama Rapids. °7<2 52222. 4.2-2---- 233 10 | Colorado of the West. .--- 1, 678 279, 000 1,678 | Mouth of Grand Cafion ....-........ 460 (West of 100th Not navigable west of 100th me- meridian.) ridian. 11)| Rio:Grande. <<. -...s...-: 1,800 123, 000 | RP Ye REE oe codecpcnScsacodcEacsacnsaaes 0 Se Volumes of discharge. No. Velovity in | Discharge Remarks. By— Locality. Date. feet per per sec- second. ond. Cubic feet. 1 [Humphreys & Abbot..|.----..-----------+-[----++ eeeeeee|eeee ee eee eee 675, 000 Physics and Hydraulics of Missis- sippi River, pages 92 and 93. F102 2e OO caacoe tcc ctetest la-cccs teense culnsesas|seacaaumacse==|ennacvien=acmee 43, 000 Physics and Hydraulics of Missis- sippi River, page 93. Bil eeeeenCO! cncnerisnaeccsceeleeoees + sacceoesseaas| eamunwen=sneen|Cenaane CS sacad 31, 000 Physicsand Hydraulics of Missis- sippi River, page 92. 4 GOGicestaccescaes|cacceccenccesresoece| sascesemaaaeas| cen eeelenetat 57, 000 3,300 square miles in area west of 100th meridian; Physics and Hydraulics of Mississippi River, page 92. 5 dO acseacetectcent | eatcdcseccsceste cet «sacecceaccens|cacccsecscesst 63, 000 75,500 square miles fn area west of 100th meridian; Physics and Hydraulics of Mississippi River, page 92. 6 Fe al (Ean ie er en ener A Pear eS 105, 000 7 GO So ons cob concane| ercb ote ee me tecncee lectin cece ceeae Nescovecececes 120, 000 2,824 miles to mouth of Three Forks; Physics and Hydraulics of Mississippi River, page 92. INTRODUCTION. 11 nn ene TLE UEEEtEdEtIEESdSIE SSIS SSSS SSS Volumes of discharge. No. - Velocity in | Discharge Remarks. By— Locality. Date. feet per per sec- second. ond. Cubic feet. 8 | Estimate of Board of |......-.-..---ss0+--|-00--- 022-2 22-|--2--- 2-22 eee 300, 000 (Mean). Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 13, Engineers. 47th Cong., 2d sess., page 3. 9 | W. H. Hall, State en- | Highest known. 3 Discharco § 205, 000cn.ft. |(Average.) | Snag-boat has reached Red Bluff, gineer of California. Ordinary high} 8°-2| 165, 000 cu.ft.) 30, 000 248 miles. ood. 10 | Lieutenant Bergland -| Stone's Ferry..--- Aug. 11, 1875 3,217 | 18, 413. 38 (esnoenoonasnoss Camp Mohave .-..| Sept. 3, 1875 1,250 | 11,623.43 | United States Geographical Sur- veys west of the 100th meridian. IDOeoocunpenceeone Fort Yuma..-.-- | Mar. 15, 1876 2, 809 7, 658. 74 < P. W. Hamel .......-- ne Camp Mo- | Sept. 15, 1871 3,006 | 16, 232.00 sf ave. Lieutenant Michler. ..| Mouth Gila River.| Dec. —, 1854 3, 000 6, 249.00 | Mexican Boundary Survey. 11 nigel WERE SREScE Sano Polonas, N. Mex ..| Sept. 19, 1878 2, 560 856.40 | Lowest water; United States Geographical Surveys west of the 100th meridian. OP eee eens Fort Selden, N. M.| Oct. 3, 1878 2, 222 640. 75 gs Lieutenant Bergland .| Del Norte, Colo...) June 22, 1877 5, 301 4, 685.50 | High water. do. 100th meridian : (1) Kansas River, taken at stage of about 4 feet above low water; ( 1878 14,462 cubic feet; at same point in October, 1879, 6, northern boundary of Portland, in fall of 1876, average velocity, 3,98 feet per second, (4) confluents of Great Salt Lake (Bear, feet per second (during rising water vember 5, 1875, 373.5 eubic feet per secont Nore.—The following measured discharges have been found for minor streams, a part or all of which lie west of the between Wamego and Saint Mary’s, 2,500 cubic feet per second, in September, 1878, 2) Yellowstone, at Fort Keogh, near mouth of Tongue River, September, 505 cubic feet per second; Willamette, at one-fourth mile below the at stage of 34 to 4 feet above 0 or low water, 13,108 cubic feet per second, and later at 9 feet (approximated) above low water, 51,590 cubic feet per second; Weber, and Jordau Rivers and miscellaneous), March and April, 1878, 4,386 cubic rd prior to commencement of irrigation); (5) Gunnison, below Tumichi Creek, No- ond. (1) A. R. C. of E. 1879, App. O, p. 1092, J. D. MeKown, under Major Suter; (2) A. R. C. of E., 1877, App. JJ, p. 1009, R. A. Habersham, under 229, Lieut. Young; (5) A. R. Geographical Surveys, 1878, For authority for the above sce C., of E., 1880, App. R, p. 1476, Lieut. Maguire; (3) A. R. Major Wilson; (4) A. R. Geographical Surveys, 1879, App. D, p- App. A, p. 105, Lieut. Bergland. The backbone of the continent within the boundaries of the United States, or the water-shed between the Interior and Pacific (approximately 1,850 miles in length), consists of a number of distinct ranges separated by noticeable passes easily approached from the eastward or westward, and to which the appellation ‘Rocky Mountains” has been given. This name fades away as the true condition of its topography be- comes known from actual surveys, and each of the several ranges claims a title. ; The mother mass of this water-shed consists of the Saguache and Snowy Ranges in Colorado (about 425 miles in length) that, begin- ning at the head of the broad San Luis Valley, extend northwardly with a single break or marked depression at the head of the Arkansas, and be- come lost in the lower levels only as the ridges leading from Long’s Peak reach the plains in this direction. To this group of serrated ridges the name of “Sierra Madre” has been given, and no other mountain mass within our borders so well deserves the title, except perhaps the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, that within 12. U. 8. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. United States territory are more local in their position, neither do they so truly form part of the great main line of continental uplift extending from the Isthmus of Darien to the Arctic Sea. To describe the physical characteristics of the multitude of ranges as to their more important topographic relations alone, would fill volumes, and, indeed, even that could not be done for parts of the area that have not yet undergone instrumental survey. Among the most important are the two just named, the Sierra Nevada, Cascades, Wahsatch, Uintah, Salmon River, Humboldt, Wind River, and many others. The Coast Ranges of California and Oregon, and the large number of subordinate chains of the Great Basin, and other portions of the elevated plateau aggregate not less than 161 distinct ridges or mountain chains, with serrated axial profile of not less than 20 miles each in length, disposed ac- cording to political divisions as follows: Nevada, 49; Arizona, 15, New Mexico, 27; Utah, 25; California, 24; Colorado, 11; Wyoming, 4; Mon- tana, 1; Idaho, 4; Oregon, 1 (part of Cascade Range only); Wyoming, 0; Texas, 0; Nebraska, 0; Dakota, 0; Kansas, 0; and Indian Territory, 0. Dotal, UG: Of the above 143 distinct and separately named mountain ranges, dis- tributed as follows: Nevada, 46; Arizona, 12; New Mexico, 25; Utah, 25; California, 20; Colorado, 11; Idaho, 3; and Oregon, 1; total, 143; independent of numbers of isolated groups of mountains as well as plateaux and mesas, have fallen within the area under survey. Of the groups of named mountains, having no regular trend, there are found 103 within the surveyed area, and 93 exterior; and of the 41 prin- cipal plateaux, already named, lying west of the one hundredth meridian, 36 fall within the surveyed limits and 5 without The aggregate number of ranges, mountain groups and plateaux(not in- cluding a number of minor subdivisions, that make up the Great Colorado Plateau) is three hundred and ninety-eight (398). The ranges, mountains, and plateaux (37, 72, and 5 in numbers, re- spectively) lying outside the region surveyed, are taken from the names INTRODUCTION. ils given upon the latest edition of the Western Territory map of the En- gineer Department, which number will doubtless be augmented when a detailed instrumental topographic survey of this territory is made. The great mountain forms, which consist for the most part of up- turned and corrugated strata, have been divided into ranges and mountains, the former confined to persistent ridges with distinct axial trend of not less than 20 miles in length each, the latter referring to the groups of mountain masses thrown above the general level with distinctive orographic features. The plateaux are tabular shaped formations, usually of sedimentary character, although often volcanic capped, standing apart and above the general level, being of irregular form and height, showing usually bold es- carpments along at least one well-marked portion of their perimeter. An attempt has been made to confine where possible the adjective use of the word “Mount” to a single isolated structure, as “ Mount Taylor,” and attaching names to the summit of the peaks, the latter being a topo- _ graphical feature, appreciable in extent, susceptible of exact geographical location, and more easily described with a definite individuality. The passes from east to west are more limited in numbers, and yet the practicable ones for routes by rail or common roads are found to increase upon diligent search, while ranges considered impassable a decade since are now climbed by the narrow-gauge tracks in their search for mining and other markets found in the local objective points of these rugged regions. The extended plateaux of the Colorado Basin and other localities west of the Continental Divide, and between it and the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, exceed in dimensions the plateaux and mesa system of Old Mexico, and the dry interior climate at elevations from 3,000 to 7,000 feet and above, south of the 40th parallel, is doubtless as lovely as any of the typical Mexican climes of the high interior valleys, and, when clearly understood as civilization advances, will furnish numerous spots noted for their climatic efficacy. The Colorado Plateau, first named by the writer in 1868, covers, in its various mountain plateau and mesa forms, at least 100,000 square miles in Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. 14 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The sub-plateaux, defined by the varying uplifts and subsequent de- nudations, are severally named. Erosion, through the sedimentaries that are the basis of its structure (and of the primitive rocks in some instances), has given rise to the Grand Canon of the Colorado, a gorge without par- allel, so far as known, for its high and nearly perpendicular walls, tortuous windings, and great length. Other canons of extraordinary magnitude are the Glenn and Uinta of the Colorado River, the “Grand” of the Arkansas, the Canon of the Yellowstone, while the Colorado, for the greater part of its length, is essentially a canon river, and the Snake River flows through deep rocky gorges for much of its distance, and minor cafons of varied dimensions are to be found in or along the flanks of every prominent mountain range. The principal falls are those in and around Yosemite Valley, more noted for their vertical dimensions than those of the Yellowstone, the Great and Little American on Snake River, and certain minor instances along the Columbia and Colorado Rivers. The Yosemite Gorge has become justly famed as one of the most picturesque, and is especially unique at the season of high water. The Yellowstone Park (so called) is one of the later wonders, on ac- count of its geysers, mud and thermal springs, waterfalls, and beautiful lakes. But few of these Western valleys are of erosion, and these compara- tively narrow and occupying but a small area. The great detrital, plain-like valleys occupy the interior spaces between the positive ranges and plateaux, while the character of the extended plains, uniform as to elevation, the wrinkles of which are mostly from erosion, extending from the 100th me- ridian to the base of the mountains, is well known from descriptions of travelers and explorers of all grades. The deserts (so called) are portions of the Lower Colorado Valley (now crossed by a railroad), the Mohave, Death Valley, Amargosa, Ralston, Humboldt, Quinn’s River, and the Snake, thus reaching in patches from the Mexican border to the Columbia, between the meridinal limits of the Wahsatch and Sierra Nevada. INTRODUCTION. 15 Sand dunes are noted particularly in the Colorado, Death, Amargosa, Termination, and San Luis Valleys. Numbers of natural parks or extended glades have been discovered in the mountainous portions of Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona, and especially by the writer in the area embraced by the heads of Little Colo- rado, Gila, San Francisco, and Salt Rivers. The name has been erroneously applied in Colorado to those extended systems of detrital valleys inclosed by high encircling ridges called North, Middle, and South Parks, that are not particularly different from similar encompassed valleys, debouching abruptly in the direction of the flow of the waters, but wanting in that apparently artificial distribution of nature’s bounties to be found in the glade-like parks above mentioned, and indeed others along the southeastern portion of the Great Colorado Plateau. The number of peaks between 10,000 feet and 15,000 feet within the entire area, so far as now known, and measured and computed by this office, is (560) five hundred and sixty, Mount Whitney, or Fisherman’s Peak, in the Southern Sierras, enjoying an elevation of 14,470 feet (barometric), be- ing the highest that has been carefully measured barometrically. The num- ber both measured and computed by the Survey within the limits between 5,000 feet and 10,000 feet can only be given quite approximately as (882) eight hundred and eighty-two.* _ Areas of depression below the level of the sea are found in the Colorado Valley north and west from Fort Yuma, covering a space of approximately 1,600 square miles, and portions of Death Valley, in Eastern California. The lakes of the Great Interior Basin, acting as reservoirs, are largely saline and alkaline, while the number in other localities is large, especially those little lakes near the crests of important mountain ranges. The most remarkable one, examined and calied Crater or Mystic Lake, northwest of Fort Klamath, on the summit of the Cascades, evidently occupies an old eruptive vent, the surface of the water being not less than 900 feet from the lowest point of the rim of a number of lava beds of various colors and separate flows, that constitute the incasing walls of an oval of approximately “ These represent only a part of all existing peaks, as also but a portion of those determined in altitude. (See Appendix A and special volume Geographic Positions, &c., royal 8°.) 16 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. 7by 9 miles. The greatest height of the almost perpendicular wall is about 2,200 feet. A small conical extinct crater of basalt rises out of the western end of the water, which is pure and cool. Although no visible outlet is known, yet one is possible, and the relative elevations permit that streams emerging from beneath the lava beds at both the eastern and western slopes of the Cascades should have their actual sources in this unique reservoir. The sedimentary strata and crystalline rocks are broken through in many localities by basalts and older lavas, the vent points being marked in some instances by the residual typical cone, great fields of which are noted near San Francisco Mountain in Arizona, while the lines of eruption of the many overlying and intercalated masses of the more ancient lavas is naturally veiled from view. The areas embraced by these lavas, except the basalts and trachytes, prove in most instances as indexes to deposits of the precious metals where search has been made, and will gradually become the alphabet of the more careful and intelligent prospecting of the future as mining advances into this extensive region. The high mountain areas, that are perpetually covered with snow, are comparatively slight, and confined to the ravines sheltered from the sun’s direct rays. Thisis due largely to the relatively small amount of rain and snow fall existing at the present stage of desiccation of this portion of the continent, the elevation of many ranges being amply sufficient with proper humid conditions to justify the presence of extensive active glaciers. The permanent source of supply from glacial masses, so efficacious in rendering certain the plans for irrigation in India and Italy that have the im- mense snow and ice storehouses of the Himalaya and the Alps, respectively, is wanting in the West; the winter snows melt rapidly and their moisture is soon transmitted below the lower levels, that most require irrigation, hence all plans looking to a successful recuperation of parched lands by the use of water must depend upon a larger than the usual modulus, upon the minimum of the running waters for the season, assuming a safe percentage of the additional volume that may be obtained by storage reservoirs. Artesian wells may be made to increase the practicably arable areas by appreciable amounts at minor spots, but on no considerable scale. INTRODUCTION. 17 Observations for the classification of the lands for map delineation into (1) Arable or agricultural, (2) timber, (3) pasturage or grazing, (4) arid or barren, having been conducted over an area exceeding 175,000 square miles in California, Nevada, Idaho, Wyoming, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona, there appears as a result the following approximate percent- ages: (1) Arable, 4.77 per cent.; (2) grazing, 49 37 per cent.; (3) timber, 26.94 per cent.; (4) arid, 16.95 per cent.; water and marsh, 1.01 per cent.; and chaparral, 0.96 per cent. The locations of hundreds of points at which the precious and economic minerals occur but substantiate the belief gradually gaining ground of the almost unlimited prospective supply; the development of which is constantly being rendered more economic and certain. The highest percentage reached for any single sheet by the “arid and barren” is 53.32, while the “arable,” although relatively of meager amount (23.83 per cent. being the highest noted), will be increased somewhat by the artificial process of irrigation systematically conducted. Evidences of extinct glacial action are numerous; and have been noted by observers for periods of years. The detrital floors of many of the valleys are the result of this action, and the detailed shapes of several prominent mountain ranges, especially in Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Califor- nia, have been governed by the grand carving of glacial beds. A possible connection between the lacustrine beach of the ancient Lake Bonneville, that once covered the present Salt Lake and Sevier Lake Basins entire, and the deep-fluted carvings along the eastern flanks of the Snake Range in Eastern Nevada was observed in 1872, indicating that glaciers existed during the period that portions of the Great Interior Basin were covered by extensive lakes draining toward the Pacific. Mineral and thermal springs in considerable numbers have been noted in this region, and, up to 1875 not less than 120 had been located and reported upon. (See vol. 3, p. 150 ) The lower levels of the detrital plain-like valleys, more especially of the Great Interior Basin, are marked by alkaline and saline flats, or mud lakes, of many square miles in extent, impassable in seasons of rain and snowfall, and the plague of these desert-like areas in times of drought. 2 WH—VOL I : 18 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, The various sedimentary systems have been made in many localities to give forth their treasures of invertebrates and vertebrates, thus adding new forms and marking a wider distribution of others. To the paleontologist the vision of still rich fields in which are en- tombed the remains of the faunal and floral life of the fossil-bearing forma- tions is as attractive as the belief in the hoped-for bonanza to the miner, and somewhat alike; the surface alone has been but skimmed in either regard. Great additions have been made by the Government and other explor- ing parties during the past twenty years in the identification and distribution of the living fauna and flora, still there is a vast field for intelligent re- search into the details of distribution and variations of the multitudinous forms of animal and plant life. While the geologist has ample room to reduce to a system the rock exposures as well as their origin and history, and the mineralogist to inves- tigate and determine as to their constituents in this area of, approximately, 1,500,000 square miles, possessed of altitudes varying from 200 feet below to nearly 15,000 feet above sea-level, the student of antiquity of the ancient races and their ruins and the present aboriginals has a horizon the value of which is but just dawning upon the popular mind, and from the many monuments marking the habitations of prehistoric peoples must come much to aid in making clear the nature of the pre-aboriginals and their modes and circumstances of life. The approximate number of Indians (pueblos and nomads) within the area of survey was found to be 60,000, belonging to not less than thirty- three distinct tribes. The white population therein, approximately, according to the census of 1880, was 631,067, that on account of the rapid influx of miners and an associate population stimulated by constant discoveries of gold and silver, and ever increasing railroad facilities, will doubtless be at least doubled in the enumeration of 1890. Of the different industries, mining takes the lead, except in the States of California and Oregon, where agriculture has reached a distinctive status. INTRODUCTION. 19 The commercial relations are principally of mining necessities toward the interior, agricultural products toward the coast, and transcontinental traffic by the Pacific railways. The future principal loci of the fixed industries of the entire country, no matter to what point the center of population may drift, are, for agri- culture, the empire of the broad drainage of the Mississippi Valley entire; for commerce, at or near the principal harbors of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, the Gulf of Mexico, the great lakes, together with a number of entrepot points on the main navigable streams; for manufactures, mainly in the valleys leading to the Atlantic and Pacific, north of latitude 40 degrees; while mining for the precious metals belongs more particularly to the mountainous area of nearly 1,000,000 square miles of the western, or Pacific coast slope, with exceptional localities in the Apalachian region. The great Mississippi Valley may be made the home of not less than 200,000,000. Millions more can find a reward for industry in the area from the eastern base of the Continental Divide to the Pacific, while the comparatively narrow belt called the “Atlantic Districts” (see sketch map accompanying appendix I), being the strip along that coast, limited toward the interior by the water-shed of the Atlantic streams, already numbers its many millions. The reports of the ‘Geographical Survey West of the One Hundredth Meridian” relate to 359,065 square miles, situate in fourteen of the fifteen political divisions lying west of that longitudinal line. The actual area of survey from 1869 to 1879 (359,065 square miles) is distributed in the following proportions in the basins of drainage herewith: 1. Colorado, 130,200 square miles; 2. Interior, 106,500 square miles; 3. Rio Grande, 50,400 square miles; 4. Arkansas, 23,100 square miles; 5, Sacramento, 22,900 square miles; 6. Coast, 11,900 square miles; 7. Co- lumbia, 11,300 square miles; 8. Missouri, 2,765 square miles. At the commencement (1869) the only transcontinental railroad through this area was that of the Union and Central Pacific and their eastern connec- tions; while to-day (January, 1887), the Southern Pacific meets the Atchi- son and Topeka, the latter branching to the Mexican coast at Guaymas, making a through route, with connections to San Francisco and San Diego 20 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF !00TH MERIDIAN. The Atlantic and Pacific has been constructed westward along the Colorado plateau beyond San Francisco Mountain to join a branch of the Southern Pacific at or near the Needles on the Colorado River, thus establishing within a brief period three distinct lmes to the Pacific, independent of the Guay- mas connection; while the more northerly line (outside of the survey area), the Northern Pacific, has been completed, and the Denver and Rio Grande uarrow gauge has penetrated westward to Utah and southward toward old Mexico. North and south lines have been opened, notably from the Cen- tral Pacific Railroad at Ogden, Utah, Palisades, Battle Mountain, and Carson, Ney., and local roads reach to the centers of production in many directions; and thus gradually this land of mountain and desert, forest and waste, with arable stretches at irregular intervals, is being reached by rapid transit from thickly settled regions, and the products of the ranch and mine may now, from a constantly increasing number of points, be carried with ease to an ever-increasing circle of consumers. The Atchison and ‘Topeka Railroad also has connection at Kl Paso with the Mexican Central, already built to the city of Mexico, and other routes are projected to enter Mexico from ‘Texas, and other rail communi- cation with our southern neighbor has been successfully inaugurated. AREAS OCCUPIED. DiI: CHAPTER I. AREAS OCCUPIED. The several expeditions, from 1869 to 1879, inclusive, were enabled to extend the observations required, upon which to base a detailed topographic map, to embrace an area of 359,065 square miles, distributed as follows, viz: New Mexico, 80,052 square miles (or 65 per cent. of its total area); Cali- fornia, 64,906 square miles (or 41 per cent. of its total area); Nevada, 62,181 square miles (or 60 per cent. of its total area); Arizona, 61,876 square miles (or 54 per cent. of its total area); Utah, 38,969 square miles (or 46 per cent. of its total area); Colorado, 33,041 square miles (or 32 per cent. of its total area); Idaho, 8,877 square miles (or 10 per cent. of its total area); Oregon, 8,842 square miles (or 9 per cent. of its total area); Wyoming, 251 square miles; and Texas, 150 square miles. In addition to these detailed topographic surveys, initial astronomic or geodetic points were established in Nebraska, Montana, and Washington Territory. Topographic sheets have already been issued that delineate 326,891 square miles of the above area, while the sum of small areas (mostly re- maining in plotting-sheet form) insufticient to publish as entire atlas sheets reaches 32,174 square miles. A number of geologic maps, the initiative of a projected Geological Atlas, based upon the above topographic sheets, have been issued as material was gathered. The annual reports comprise, besides the simple operations for the year, special descriptive and technical details. 22 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The main quarto volumes (eight in number), devoted to special sub- jects (as astronomy, geology, &c.), are within themselves complete, as to the subjects embraced, at the date of issue, and there but remains the gen- eral Geographical Report from the main body of which all allied and technical material will be excluded. EXPEDITION OF 1869. The expedition of this year traversed an area of (approximately) 24,428 square miles, including 24,028 square miles in southeastern Nevada and 400 square miles in western Utah. The basins explored and mapped were southern portions of the iCrreat Interior” and central parts of the Colorado, north and west of the great southern bend. The principal streams encountered other than the Colorado from south to north, are the ‘ Virgin River” and Muddy Creek, a tributary heading in Pahranagat Valley, with a small affluent having its source at the head of Cedar Valley near the Utah boundary; also portions of the western part of the Sevier Lake Basin, the Humboldt, and a number of southern tributaries, independent of minor streams issuing from the mountain sides and sinking within the confines of the neighboring troughlike valleys, that are generally subordinate interior basins, integral parts of the elevated, mountain-inclosed area, without ocean outlet, known as the “Great Interior Basin.” Novre.—The general route pursued by Lieutenant Wheeler in the expedition of 1869 was as follows: San Francisco, Cal., to Halleck Station, Nev., on the Central Pacific Railroad; thence to Camp Halleck, Nev.; thence to Elko, Nev.; thence to Old Fort Ruby, via Huntington Valley; thence to Hamilton, White Pine District, via Long Valley; thence to Cave Valley via Steptoe Valley; th nce to Preuss Lake, (so-called), Utah, and return; thence to Panacea and Pioche via Cedar, Eagle, and Rose Valleys; thence to West Point via Grape Vine Canon and Meadow Valley Wash; thence to Las Vegas via mouth of Virgin River, and northern bank of Colorado River to El Dorado Canon; thence to Indian Spring via Spring Mountain Range; thence to Pahranagat District via Quartz and Summit Springs; thence to Moute Cristo Mill, White Pine District, via Quinn Cafon and Railroad Valley; thence to aan Halleck via White Pine and Huntington Valleys; thence via Halleck Station to San Francisco. The departure from the routes above stated, in this as for all other years, con- sisted principally in the detours necessary in the ascent of prominent mountain peaks, and in traversing the adjacent ranges, and in visiting important mining camps. EXPEDITION OF 1869. 93 The measured mountain peaks above 10,000 feet approximately, are, Halleck, Humboldt Range, with four others unnamed; Grafton and White’s Peaks, Schell Creek Range, and one other; Union, Snake Range, and one other, and Charleston, of the Spring Mountain Range, or eleven in all. The trough-like detrital valleys between the nearly meridional ranges have sensibly the same trend, and with few exceptions are valuable only for grazing, on account of too great an elevation, poor soil, or want of water. The exceptions are Ruby, Steptoe, Duck Lake, and Pahranagat Valleys, with a number of smaller size near the borders of Utah, and where the Mormons had tilled the scanty-sized fields to good purpose. . The plateau system, so well marked in the area surrounding the Grand* Canon of the Colorado, and so widely developed in the central portion of the basin of this stream (named the ‘‘ Colorado Plateau” by the writer in 1871), has but a slight representation in the 1869 area, consisting princi- pally in a number of detrital mesas, adjacent to and on the northwesterly banks of this river, and along the most southerly area of the reconnaissance. The population of the area embraced was sparse and confined to the few cultivated valleys and occupied mining camps, and counted by a few thou- sand except for the temporary influx into the White Pine District, while so far as concerns topograpbie material, relating even to horizontal dimen- sions, the then existing map of this region was almost a positive blank. The early Government explorers who had previously crossed this area in any direction, and whose reports have come under my notice, were Colonel Steptoe, along the northern portion in 1855; Captain Simpson, Corps of Topographical Engineers, to the southward and in nearly an east and west direction while en route from Salt Lake City, Utah, to Carson, Nev., in 1859; Captain Frémont, in 1844, while en route to California, along the lower route across the Great Basin first named by him; while in 1867 Major Sidney Lyon, formerly an Army officer, traversed southeasterly from Austin, Nev., to the Mormon settlements in southwest Utah. So far as can be ascer- tained, no one of these parties determined astronomical latitudes or longitudes, at points within the expeditionary area of 1869, except Captain Simpson. The land surveys had advanced but little into this section, only ap- proximately 3,500 square miles having been subdivided at the date of the expedition, since which time, however, marked advances in settlement are 24 U. 8S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, shown by the advance of the surveys and by the mining claims in numer- ous localities that have been entered and subdivided in accordance with the mining law of 1872.* The Indian tribes noted, and of which the total number approximated 2,500 men, women, and children, were the Shoshones, Gosiutes, Snakes, Pah-vants, and Pah-Utes. None of these were on reservations, and roamed at pleasure, eking out a purposeless existence, principally by hunting, fish- ing, and from the store of pinon nuts found at infrequent intervals along the foot-hills and lesser mountain groups. While the greater number of these Indians profess to be peaceful, yet massacres of small parties in isolated canons were still of frequent occur- rence. It was impracticable, on account of the rapid nature of the reconnais- sance, to collect data by which to classify the lands, although it may be said that grazing everywhere predominates, except for the many barren locali- ties, while timber, mostly pine of the larger varieties, is found in the mount- ain ranges at the higher altitudes, the pinon being noticed along most of the rolling foot-hills in greater or less profusion. A number of mining camps were visited, and areas, composed entirely of the earlier grades of volcanic rocks, or of the junction between them and the sedimentaries, indicated fields for careful and intelligent prospecting, much of the former of which has since been done, while for long periods these many ranges will hold hidden their mineral secrets, only to be revealed as time, forced on by American activity, shall come to the rescue, and one series of mining ventures after another follow in rapid succession, until this industry, as applied to the precious metals, shall become more systematic and fixed. The water supply of the greater part of this area is extremely limited, the rainfall of the valley portions seldom exceeding 4 to 5 inches per an- num, although that of the mountains, including the winter snows, is con- siderably greater. The Colorado River bounds the southern portion of the area that is along its immediate northern banks, a mountainous and valley * Surveys by General Land Office had subdivided 32,793,702 acres, or 51,240 square miles, in Nevada up to Juve 80, 1886, out of an estimated area of 112,090 square miles for the whole State. ~ UBRARY —OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLnols “uoschuoy] sg sshay, AQ UMDIGE qyooot e _ Peed el 6 9gT qoumpy ye M9 —podoaing ‘ayDoOS| yo yUu0zIWOY "EPBAON UloysBvoyyNog ‘ABBA BAeD UT ‘eARD Jo uoTpeG pue uRg (A upton braid “a H Bey: M ‘ ‘ t TNS ae ? 4 4 i ih? oy h i SC perry See : is a, ee ; ES by y eA Si Hy Oba ee ayf AVY J? (Pus 4 alr “Yoou Oot ° | a ee ae oe eee aap ae soe eees el ‘OYDOIS YWII}LI4 L_ T ON ALW Ida a = ae ee a _ - "Taod Ta IVOl I EXPEDITION OF 1869. 25 desert, interspersed with mesas. The Humboldt, an inconsiderable stream of the Great Interior Basin, skirts the northern portion. A few lakes are noted in the valleys lying east of the Humboldt Range—the reservoir of Sevier River and in Pahranagat Valley. But comparatively little land can be restored by irrigation so far as could be determined from a cursory view. Artesian wells will doubtless some day prove of local service along the mountain flanks at selected localities. The average mean temperature at the Signal-Service station at Pioche, Nev., toward the southern portion of the reconnaissance area, for the years 1878, 1879, 1880, 1881, and 1882, was found to be 49°.8 Fahr. The max- imum monthly average was 74° for. August, 1878, and the minimum 26°.4 for January, 1882. : The average precipitation for the same period was 6.71 inches per annum; the annual means varying between 8.36 inches and 4.67 inches. The mean relative humidity for the above five years varies between 32.9 and 43.8. The means of communicating along northerly and southerly lines are amply practicable. Such routes have been availed of for the small number of wagon roads needed in the condition of settlement of the country ex- isting in 1869. The position of east and west routes is practically determined by the mountain passes that exist in the several longitudinal ranges, and hence are more limited innumber. Upon favorable developments in the mineral areas these valleys will be finally traversed by asystem of narrow-gauge railways (north and south), with feeders or arms extending laterally, east and west, into the mountain canons. Novre.—Plate I is here introduced showing the plan and section of a cave in the mountain limestone partially explored in Cave Valley lying due south of Steptoe Val- ley, that appears to underlie a number of small buttes westward from the main range, in which the same limestone appears heavily bedded. Its exploration was made by a party of 23 to a right-line distance of 3,000 feet from the orifice, developing walls of 700 to 800 feet in height, with dry chambers for nearly 2,000 feet of the distance, the balance approaching the sink at the furthest distance from the opening, showing the presence and action of percolating waters, reaching a pit apparently terminal for this level which it was found impracticable to explore for lateral connections, that may, for all that is known, extend in any direction. : 26 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. North from Old Camp Ruby a distance of several miles a stream of considerable dimensions was found emerging from the flanks of the Hum- boldt Range, which could be followed for a distance within its limestone walls to an orifice nearly filled by the volume of the discharge. This volume was not less than 2,000 feet per second, hence its cutting power with the velocity of emergence was very great, and doubtless along its course in the interior of the mountain structure passages of no little size have been eroded, to appear at some later day in the drainage of this basin as cave amphitheaters and avenues. Thermal springs were noted at the following points: Near Elko; also in Spring, Ruby, White Pine, and Pahranagat Valleys, at Panacea, in Meadow Valley, and in the wash to the southward. (See vol. 3, p. 150.) The mountain ranges are generally anticlinals, with doubtless the cor- responding synclinal, with a similar strike, below each adjacent detrital valley. Heavy limestone and quartzite beds are a marked feature, over- laid with rhyolitic or other eruptive masses, or as intruded beds, in many cases the sedimentary formations being entirely covered. The rapidity of the march gave no opportunity for either geological examination or collection of specimens. Parts of the area of 1869 were again entered in 1871 and 1872, when geologists and other collectors were added to the personnel. The superficial evidences of vein phenomena were many in the several districts then located, and as a better understanding is had of the relation- ship of the volcanic beds that are mineral bearing and the accompanying country rock, there will be found, it is* believed, much more to tempt the miner. ‘This wilderness of ranges and mountain ridges found in the great interior basin and other portions of the west visited by the parties of the several expeditions impress one fully with the opportunities for persistent mining when the same is converted, as is now rapidly being done, from the position of a sporadic effort to that of a fixed industry. The number of north and south mineral belts so called can scarcely be estimated; on the thirty-ninth parallel it cannot be less than fifteen, according to present dis- coveries, and.the ground is scarcely scratched. EXPEDITION OF 1869. 27 Boundaries of the Great Interior Basin but imperfectly known along the southern and southeastern rim were traced and many sub-basins, the waters of which sink in the detritus or rocky strata of the plain-like valleys, were made known for the first time. The interior plateau climate of this so thoroughly desiccated region at all elevations above 2,000 feet, during the summer months was found superb in the extreme. From August 10 to the evening of October 27 not a rain cloud had been noticed by night or day by the valley parties, and the brill- iancy of the moon often made it possible to read by its light. Partial lake terraces were noted in certain of the more prominent val- leys, and it now seems evident from the lacustrine beaches, discovered in 1871 by the expedition of that year and by Clarence King along the fortieth parallel, that the larger share of the ‘“‘ Great Interior Basin” was not long since the bed of great lakes having outlets northwardly or southwardly to the ocean These bodies of water have drained away, and residuals of a secular des- iccation have dwindled to that condition of semi-desert now so well known, the small reservoirs of Great Salt, Sevier, Humboldt, Winnemucca, Carson, Walker, Owens, and a few minor lakes being the only water surfaces of the former expanse. The artemesia of the plain-like valleys holds sway throughout the area, the bunch-grass clothes the foot-hills and the semi-mesas except for the more desert part of the area on the south and near the banks of the Colorado. Certain of the valleys in the eastern part of Nevada are clothed with well-bedded grasses in the bottoms that afford a natural annual yield of both fair quantity and quality. The mountain streams are stocked with trout. The varieties of fish and animals of all descriptions are extremely few, as also the individual specimens. The area is almost destitute of game except for such smaller varieties as duck, geese, crane, and sage-hens. A few blue-winged grouse are found in the higher elevations, and quail to the southward near the val- leys, and deer have been noted in the Humboldt and other like prominent ranges. In the southern or desert-like portions of the area rattlesnakes 28 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. and reptiles were abundant.. No Indian ruins were seen, and, indeed, the student of antiquities will find but little to reward him in the region visited by the expedition of this year. It was determined that the hypothetical lake named ‘ Preuss,” after Frémont’s chief topographer, and hitherto placed on the maps as being crossed by the boundary line between Nevada and Utah, was without doubt the alkaline flat (overflowed from Sevier Lake at seasons of high water) lying to the southward of this lake, and between the Hawawah and Beaver Creek Ranges. It determined also that several Mormon settle- ments, containing about 2,500 inhabitants and several thousand acres of tillable land, heretofore supposed to be in Utah, were actually in Nevada. The minerals noted were mostly gold, silver, copper, lead, antimony, iron, salt, gypsum, alum, and cobalt (silver predominating), the well- known Meadow Valley mining district, with Pioche as a center, having been the largest producer. The towns were few, sparsely settled, and uninteresting; the many short creeks from the mountain sides usually sink before reaching the cen- tral portions of the valley. The discharge of the Muddy (more a creek than a river) at West Point is not less than 5,000 inches, and of the peculiar springs near Las Vegas, 1,500 inches approximately. The Colorado River (traversed for 70 miles along its. northern bank), with a drainage of 175,000 square miles, was afterwards gauged at Camp Mohave and Fort Yuma (see years 1875 and 1876), and circumstances of its navigation were ascer- tained during the river trips of 1871. Of the twenty-three valleys traversed there was found not to exceed 250 square miles of arable land, of which 18,000 acres lie in Pahranagat Valley, all of which practically requires irrigation. The mountain peaks vary between elevations of 8,500 to 13,000 feet; the vegetation reaching 11,500 feet where observed on the thirty-ninth par- allel. The other elements regulating the superior altitude of vegetation being (1) grade of slope, (2) mean temperature, (3) relative humidity. The principal timber is of the pine, pinon, cedar, fir, spruce, and cottonwood varieties, and may be noticed, in sparsely distributed forests, along the Hum- boldt, Schell Creek, Snake, and other ranges; in the mountains south of EXPEDITION OF 1869. 29 “= White Pine and east of Railroad Valley; southeast of Clover Valley and along the southern extension of Schell Creek Range at three points before reaching the headwaters of the Muddy. Covering the foot-hills pinon and stunted cedar abound. The bunch grass of the rolling foot-hills, so luxuriant and fine of fibre, is changed within the Colorado River Valley zone into a coarser variety known as “hard tack.” Wherever land is cleared of large sage brush and brought under culti- vation by means of irrigation, the underlying vegetable mold, always dark, is found to furnish a most prolific soil. In the portion of Southeast Nevada visited, the maximum temperature of points up to 7,000 feet altitude noted was 100° Fahrenheit; the mini- mum winter temperature reaching, as has been recorded, 15° below zero. Mid-day temperatures in the shade, of 118° and 120°, were noted on the banks of the Colorado, but scarcely so oppressive as those of 95° to 100° Fahrenheit in the more humid climate of the eastern seaboard. A system of strictly scientific observations at selected points in the great in- terior basins and the plateaux of the Far West at elevations from 3,000 to 8,000 feet will develop, it is believed, equable conditions of climate, show- ing small actual and large relative humidities, and promising a salubrity that cannot be found in other portions of the United States, where the rainfall is so much in excess, and equal if not superior to the far-famed mesa sec- tions of old Mexico; for the distinctive mesa and plateau forms only receive their full development upon reaching the latitudinal confines of the United States. The rich, succulent bunch grass has been found most valuable for stock- raising, and the areas suitable have been already largely, if not entirely, utilized for this purpose. In 1869 cattle and sheep were being driven in from distant points, even as far as from Texas, but horses and mules were scarce. The soil is generally good for mountain roads, but they had been poorly made, with scarcely an exception, and were wanting in repairs. The highest point in this area is the summit of the Snake Range (baro- metric height 12,063 feet). This peak had been named Jefferson Davis in 185455 by Colonel Steptoe, after the Secession and Confederate leader of that name. Mr. White, State mineralogist of Nevada, at the date of its as- 30 =U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, cent for the first time by himself, myself, and party, suggested a change to that of my own, which idea was abandoned when it was learned that Cap- tain Simpson in 1859-60 had, from the valley below, passed this locality and suggested the appellation of ‘ Union,” which name has been adhered to in the office of Geographical Surveys. Although narrow-gauge railways have not yet (January, 1883) entered any portion of the 1869 area, yet elsewhere, in many sections traversed in the West, they have been intro- duced with economic effect, and the prediction of the writer in 1868 to the effect that for short meridional lines and local mountain routes this means of communication would prevail in the main, has been realized in scores of instances. Special maps of this reconnaissance were made on scales of 1 inch to 6 miles and 1 inch to 12 miles; the material, later on, being incorpor ated into the atlas on scale 1:506,880, and where necessary into sheets, scale of 1:253,440. The material collected, supplemented by that of 1871, 1872, and other years, was finally incorporated and published in the regular topographic atlas sheets, Nos. 40, 48, 49, 58, 59, and 66. EXPEDITION OF 1871. This expedition traversed and examined an area of approximately 72,250 square miles, including 18,811 square miles in Eastern California, 29,600 in Northwestern and Central Arizona, 23,039 in Southern and South- western Nevada, and 800 square miles in Southern Utah, during an excep tionally long field season, commencing early in May and ending late in December. The basins of drainage, entered, traversed, and mapped, were central portions of the “Great Interior,” and of the Colorado of the West. The principal streams surveyed, forming sub-portions of the above basin areas, are the Humboldt with Maggie Creek and North Fork of its northern, with Smith and Humboldt Creeks of its southern, tributaries; again to the south- ward are the basins of the Virgin River and Muddy Creek, partly examined in 1869, and that entire of Owen’s River, finding its reservoir in the lake of that name; the Mohave, also now known to be a member of the separated EXPEDITION OF 1871. 31 * family of little interior depressions without sea outlets, making up the whole of the undrained basin of the great interior plateau. The tributaries of the Colorado to the southward, traversed and followed are: The Bill Williams Fork, also its confluents, the Big Sandy, Santa Maria, &c., Little Colorado and Diamond Creeks, and other creeks entering the Grand Canon from its mouth to that of Diamond Creek; the basins entered still further to the south, as the San Carlos, Hassyampa, Agua Fria, Salt River, San Pedro, and Santa Cruz, are affluents of the Gila, while in turn certain of the prominent tributaries of the Salt River are the White Mountain creeks, Tonto, Pinal, Canon, also creeks rising in the Colorado Plateau, the Tonto Basin, and the Sierra Blanca Range, many of which were visited and explored for the first time by white men. In order to render clear, in this connection, tle purposes of this expe- dition, a copy of departmental instructions is herewith: OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS, Washington, D. C., March 23, 1871. Srr: The Secretary of War, in his orders of March 18, 1871, a copy of which has been furnished you, has assigned you to the charge of the exploration, under the direction of the Chief of Engineers, of those portions of the United States territory lying south of the Central Pacific Railroad, embracing parts of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. The main object of this exploration will be to obtain correct topographical knowl- edge of the country traversed by your parties, and to prepare accurate maps of that section. In making this the main object, it is at the same time intended that you ascertain, as far as practicable, everything relating to the physical features of the country, the numbers, habits, and disposition of the Indians who may live in this see- tion, the selection of such sites as may be of use for future military operations or occupation, and the facilities offered for making rail or common roads, to meet the wants of those who at some future period may occupy or traverse this portion of our territory. In ascertaining the physical features, your attention is particularly called to the mineral resources that may be discovered, and, where the indications would seem to justify it, you should have minute and detailed examinations made of the locality and character of the deposits. } The influence of climate, the geological formations, character and kinds of vegeta- tion, its probable value for agricultural and grazing purposes, relative proportions of woodland, water, and other qualities which affect its value for the settler, should be carefully observed. 32 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The latitude and longitude of as many as possible of the important points should be accurately determined, and in order to assist you in this, it is suggested that you make arrangements with the officers in charge of the United States Lake furvey and United States Naval Observatory, so as to determine by telegraph the longitude of those points nearest to your field of labor, with which your field-work can be con- nected. * * * * * * * The following places are designated as convenient for depots, viz: Camp Inde- pendence, California ; Camps Mohave, Hualapais, Whipple, and Apache, in Arizona; and Camps Wingate and Bayard in New Mexico. You will use your own judgment in modifying the plan proposed in the event of any unforeseen circumstances or physical obstacles preventing an adherence to it. To aid you in the discharge of these duties, Lieut. D. W. Lockwood, of the Corps of Engineers, has been ordered to report to you, and you are authorized to employ ten assistants as topographers, geologists, naturalists, We., at salaries already authorized from this office in letters of previous date; also, the necessary number of packers, guides, and laborers to complete your party, the whole number of civilian employés not to exceed thirty in number. You will procure your assistants, employés, equip- ments, supplies, &c., at those points which seem to insure the most economical and effective organization for the party, and are authorized to pay their actual transporta- tion to and from and to subsist them while in the field. * * * * * * * You will communicate with this office as often as the means of communication will allow, forwarding the usual reports and returns required by the regulations, and such other reports as will keep this office apprised of your movements, and the progress. of the expedition under your charge. * * * * * * * Very respectfully, your obedient servant, A. A. HUMPHREYS, Brigadier-General and Chief of Engineers. Lieut. GEORGE M. WHEELER, Corps of Engineers, Washington, D. C. Pursuant to these instructions the operations of the season were carried out with great vigor, and a preliminary report, accompanied by a skeleton map, scale 1 inch to 24 miles, was submitted and published shortly after return from the field. The routes of early explorers traversing this area are those of: (1) Padre Escalante, 1776, en route from Santa Fe, N. Mex., to Great Salt Lake, Utah; (2) Frémont, in 1844, also 1845, in his southern EXPEDITION OF 1871. 33 route along the rim of the Great Basin, also from vicinity of Austin to eastern base of the Sierras, emerging via Owen’s Lake; (3) Emory, 184647, with the California column along the Gila River; (4) Captain Sitgreaves, in 1852, from the Zuni villages, westward to the Colorado River, and thence along its banks to its mouth; (5) Lieutenant Whipple, 1853, along the 35th parallel route from Sunset Crossing to Los Angeles, Cal.; (6) Lieutenant Parke, along the 32d parallel, in vicinity of Tucson, to the east; (7) Colonel Steptoe, 185455, from Salt Lake City into and along the valley of the Humboldt; (8) Captain Simpson, 1859, from Great Salt Lake, westward to Carson City; (9) Major Lyon (1867), from Austin, Nev., to Southwestern Utah. The areas were joined with those occupied in 1869, and so on for the successive seasons the work was developed to cover contiguous sections of territory. When the large latitudinal and longitudinal expanse, the extensive area, the long lines traversed, the broken mountain and desert tracts entered and for the first time made known as a whole, the multiple number of parties, their successful connection and co-operation, over a country where supplies had to be transported to advance depots, is considered, and when taken in connection with the successful ascent of the Colorado, the determination of its practical head of navigation, together with the fact that the regions south of the Colorado River, as well as a part of those to the Nore.—The route traversed by the officer in charge in 1871 was generally as follows: Washington, D. C., to Halleck Station, Nev.; Halleck Station to Camp Hal- leck and return; Halleck Station to Carlin; Carlin tu Bull Run district and return; Carlin to Eureka, via Mineral Hill; Eureka to Morey district; Morey to Meadow Creek, near Belmont, via Tyboe district; thence to Hyko, Pahranagat Valley; thence via Oasis Valley to Camp Independence, Cal.; thence to Cottonwood Springs via Cot- tonwood Cafion, Death Valley, and Ash Meadows; thence to Camp Mohave via Ivan- pah; thence to mouth of Diamond Creek via Colorado River and Grand Canon: thence to Truxton Springs; thence via Mineral Park to Hualapais Springs and to Camp Hualapais; thence to Prescott; thence to San Francisco Mountains; thence via Kim of Plateau to Tonto Basin and Camp Apache; thence to Old Camp Grant, Ariz., and to Tucson, Ariz.; thence by stage to San Diego, by steamer to San Francisco, Cal., and by rail to Washington, D. C. 3 WH—VOL I 34 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. north of it, were infested by hostile Indians, making a perpetual guard a necessity by night and day, all of this, coupled with the unflinching courage, perseverance, and tenacity of the personnel, one and all, make it apparent that the exploration of 1871 was one of the most important and useful of those intrusted to my charge during eleven expeditionary years. Indians to the number of several thousand were noted, belonging to the following tribes: Shoshones, Pah-Utes, Chemehuevis, and Utes of Ne- vada and California; the Seviches of Utah, and the Mohaves, Apache-Mo- haves, Hualapais, Cosninos, the Tontos, Pinals, Coyoteros, Mescaleros, and Arivaipas of the Apaches in Arizona. No census or enumeration claiming accuracy had been made in 1871. The greatest number of the White Mountain Indians (Coyotero Apaches) at Camp Apache that had ever drawn rations at one time did not exceed 1,200 men, women, and children. It had been estimated that the total number of Apache warriors would not exceed 1,500; however this may be, their hardiness, in conjunction with a perfect knowledge of their broken mountainous and mesa region, in which their homes were situated, made them an enemy greatly to be feared. They were then entirely nomadic, true mountain Indians, unaccustomed and hostile to the intrusion of the whites, and restless and unsafe whenever on a reservation. The roaming Indians lead a precarious existence, alternating between valley and plain, foot-hills and mountains north of the Colorado River, subsisting on pine nuts, seeds of all kinds, jack-rabbits, lizards, and a few small birds; while south of the Colorado they live more upon game and fish, cook the mescal and certain cactus plants, cultivate small fields, and have ponies. In the valley of the Colorado small Indian fields of corn, melons, and squashes were seen. From among the Utes and Pah-Utes found north and west of the Colorado River, it was possible to obtain friendly guides, many of whom proved most valuable in pointing out the little hidden springs and streams, especially in the Death Valley country, Southwestern Nevada, and Eastern California sections. Indians were being fed by the military authorities at a number of posts in Arizona, notably at Camps Apache, Grant, Verde, and Whipple. The plan pursued at the former, that I had occasion to suggest while serv- EXPEDITION OF 1871. 5 Oo ing on staff of commanding general, Department of California, was to issue tickets to each sub-chief or head of a family, at a general gathering, when all would be anxious to show their authority and get the greatest number together, as a basis for furnishing rations, when in case next ration day any members were absent, no rations would be issued to the particular family or band, until the entire number were remustered and absentees accounted for. This prevented the young bucks from being absent on the war-path, while rations would still be drawn for them at the reservation or agency. It is understood that this plan has since been tried with very good effect, and might well be made general. Some of the worst, if not worst, Indians remaining in the United States were those encountered in the lonely marches, away often from either highways or trails, on this expedition, whereas it is believed that ten years have so far changed the face of matters that an escort is scarcely, if at all, needed in any part of Arizona, unless during an outbreak, one of those periodical occurrences destined to come without warning, while the Indian race (fast giving way before white emigration) retain any of their native spirit. One cannot approach the subject of the Indian without reverting to the Stage massacre (see Prel. Rept., 1871, p. 29) near Wickenburg, Arizona (where three members of the expedition were murdered), long since proven to have been committed by Indians professedly friendly, and being fed at the expense of the Gov- ernment. Maimum, one of the Mohaves of the river trip, who had formed a great fondness for the ill-fated Loring, was largely instrumental in ferret- ing out these red-skinned assassins, and some of their number were finally found and punished during General Crook’s first command of the Military Department of Arizona. This is one of the evidences of the mistaken zeal, of the then peace-at-any-cost policy, that was for so long a time applied to the settlement of the Indian problem. Unfortunately, the bones of mur- dered citizens cannot rise to cry out and attest the atrocious murders of the far-spreading and wide-extending border lands of the Great West, and while the fate of the Indian is sealed, the interval during which their exter- mination as a race is to be consummated will doubtless be marked in addition to Indian outbreaks, with still many more murderous ambus- cades and massacres. (1879.) 36 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The rapidity of movement and plans of the expedition, depending upon reaching supply points at stated times, and long marches between waters, did not permit of taking careful notes in the topographie record of the various natural divisions, &c., of the soil, nor of its cultivation, as was com- menced in 1872, and developed in later years to an actual economic classi- fication, reduced to percentages and shown graphicaily by colors on the topographic map. Suffice it to say that much of the country traversed, such as Death Valley, Armargosa Desert, and portions of the Mohave and Colo- ‘ado Deserts, are as unpromising sections as the sun shines upon, even were it the depths of the ‘‘Sahara;” while fringed with smaller desert areas, con- taining oases of appreciable extent, the ones above mentioned are almost destitute of vegetation and water. Valleys near the railroad, like the Reese River, are marked by narrow lines of cultivable ground, and much grazing is met with, especially in the foot-hills, and occasional patches of timber in the higher ranges, reaching tracts of considerable size. Much of the region belongs to the “Interior Basin,” and to that portion of the “Great Ameri- can Desert” found in Southwestern Nevada and Eastern California. Shortly after crossing the Colorado the scene changes, and the rolling, broken mesas of the Colorado plateau are reached, where in many cases large areas of luxurious grass abound, with timber of the fir and pine species, one almost unbroken forest, except for intervening valley and glade, extending from far to the north and west of San Francisco Mountains to the eastward limit of the trip, the White Mountain Range, east of Camp Apache, a distance of approximately 850 miles, and varying in width from 60 to 100 miles. Within this large area lies the “ Black (juniper) Forest” of Ives, and its extent is only limited by the heads of the Gila River, and the ranges extending thence eastward, one by one, to the valley of the Rio Grande. This forest is without doubt the largest, single, connected timber expanse found south of the fortieth parallel and west of the one hundredth meridian. Its elevation is from 7,000 to 11,000 feet, in most localities below 8,000. The little glade-like valleys might, with much success, be turned to pur- poses of agriculture and grazing. In 1871 but little of the arable or graz- EXPEDITION OF 1871. orl ing land had come into the market even in Nevada, since which date it is understood that subdividing surveys have covered the greater part of this section; and when one considers the comparativeiy few acres out of every hundred (not exceeding ten) that can be utilized by the farmer or stock grower, in connection with the Western tide of emigration, it is not difficult to see that before many decades every useful acre will be appro- priated, in pursuance of the present land laws, when there will still remain in the hands of the General Government sterile wastes, not alone of millions, but tens of millions of acres, which, valueless for agriculture, stock raising, or mining, must for a long time remain unoccupied, even with the most liberal land-settlement laws. The cultivable area may be increased slightly through surface and artesian-well irrigation in the southwest. and by re- precipitation in adding slightly to the normal amounts of rainfall, from the interposition of larger areas of evaporation, and through other causes. ‘The entire cultivable ground in Southern and Eastern Nevada is limited to small isolated spots, or narrow lines, while certain valleys in Arizona re- spond more liberally, notably the Chino, Williamson’s, and of the Verde, in the north; along Salt River, in vicinity of Phoenix, and of the Gila, near Florence, and in vicinity of Pueblo Viejo at the south. The Territory of Arizona, so long judged by the lines of transit through it along the lower Gila and other desert sections toward its southern border, bears a better character for productiveness of soil as its northern, central, and eastern parts become opened up and known. Not less than 10,000 acres were cultivated at Phoenix in 1871. The artemisia, or desert sage, disappears as the higher semi-plateau regions of Arizona are reached, and is replaced by rich bunch and grama grasses and shrubs, although the presence of a strong growth of artemisia is everywhere indicative of a fine undersoil, but usually valueless from absence of water. Except for portions of the Colorado Plateau and certain valleys in Arizona, the average per- centage of arable and grazing land of the 1871 area was less than that for any single year, the arid area being largely in excess, which is not strange when one considers that the worst deserts of the West, é. ¢., Death Valley, Amargosa, Mohave, and part of the Colorado, utterly destitute of vegeta- tion except in rare spots, contribute to the area. 38 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The mesas and valleys of the plateau systems and of parts of the Great Interior Basin have become the home of thousands upon thousands of cattle, to be limited only by the number of acres actually valuable for this purpose. The areas best adapted for grazing were all the open parts of the Colorado Plateau, of the Tonto Basin, and portions of the Upper Verde and Salt River, in Arizona. There is good grazing also in the Pah- ranagat and Muddy Valleys and portions of the Virgin River, near Saint George, Utah. he valley of the Upper Owhyee is exceedingly valuable for stock-raising, but of little use for agriculiure. Stock ranches, generally small, were noticed in many of these valleys, and commencing with the advent of the Central Pacific in 1868 the valleys and adjacent mountain sides of Central Nevada commenced to be appropriated for this purpose. Fine grazing was also noted in the Hualapais and Sacramento Valleys of Northwestern Arizona, but scantily supplied with water. Good grazing also appears in parts of the valley of the Santa Maria and Big Sandy, both tributaries of Bill Williams Fork. To sketch the different kinds of lands would be to prolong this report far beyond a reasonable length. Along the edge of the San Francisco Plateau, after turning eastward in going south from San Francisco Mountains, and toward Camp Apache, the Tonto Basin, with limiting ranges to the south, stands out full in view, an amphitheater of fully 250 miles east and west, and in width from 75 to 125 miles; showing, too, among its subordinate ranges large tracts of tim- ber and many handsome grazing fields. The soil of the plateau is from old voleanie rocks of the dark variety of trachytes, deep, dark, and rich in most localities. ; Forests of greater or lesser extent fringe the high mountains and plateau in Nevada and Arizona. Pines are found reaching almost to the summit of the Humboldt Range, near Camp Halleck, and southward towards Hastings Pass. Here mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus ledifolius) reaches nearly the altitude of spruces and poplars, and cottonwoods 1 to 2 feet in diameter mark the streams of the several gulches. No trees were noticed in or near Maggie Creek and Independence ‘Valleys. Mountain mahogany was ob- served in many localities along mountain sides in Central Nevada. The summit of the Toquima Range enjoys patches of pines, while juniper and EXPEDITION OF 1871. 39 pinon ( Pinus edulis) are noticed at lower levels, as is the case for most of the ranges in Central and Southern Nevada. The mountains northwest from and near Saint George, Utah, have considerable pine growth, and a dense growth of cedar is found at the head of the Grand Wash. Pine and scrub oak are noted about Bill Williams Mountain. The “Black Forest” of Ives is an area of densely-growing juniper, with pines and firs at the higher levels, and east of Camp Apache a heavy wilderness of pine (Pinus ponderosa, Pseudotsuga Douglasii, Abies concolor and brachyptera), interspersed with scrub oak (Quercus undulata), black walnut, and fir, appears. Heavy forests cover large portions of the Natanes Mesa and Pinal Mountains. Cotton- woods are noticed on most of the streams below the level of about 3,500 feet. Juniper and pinon alone are found along that part of Reyeille Range facing Hot Creek Valley. Fir and pine in patches appear on the slopes of the Timpahute Range, but only dwarf oaks at the foot. No timber of any sort was noticed from this range westward via Oasis and Death Valley to the Inyo Range; east of Owen’s River Valley (distance approximately 150 miles) juniper and pinon clothe many of the divides of the ranges in South- western Nevada and Eastern California. On the San Francisco Plateau spruce and fir may be found in patches above 8,500 feet in altitude. The great forest of the Colorado Plateau extends southeastwardly for a distance of 400 miles, ending only near the Rio Grande, its width being variable and fully 100 miles at the greatest extension. It is estimated that the val- leys and glades interspersed through it will reach 15 to 20 per cent. of the area, where below 7,500 feet the land can be cultivated with safety at and below latitude 33 degrees, and all of it is valuable for grazing. The soil is a dark, deep, rich loam from the older lavas, and will some day respond to the call of the farmer, especially when the pines of the lower levels are cleared. This is a noble forest, both in extent and size of trees, that grow tall and vigorous, the forest area being joined substantially to that of the Tonto Ba- sin. Up to this date, ninety-two mining districts had been discovered within the field of the expedition, many of which were being worked on a lesser or larger scale, Pioche being the most productive of all. These were all located upon the map, most of them for the first time. Attention was in- vited as to their locality, to mountain environment, the character of ore, 40 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, matrix and country rock, with reference to the methods of reduction in vogue. The areas within which it would be unavailable to search for the precious metals have in many cases been pointed out, both mineralogically and as regards geological exposures, and in certain instances, where the character of the country rock and its surroundings seemed to justify it, favor- able localities for prospecting were suggested. This year increased the available evidence showing that, with the ex- ception of the older trachytes, the lavas more ancient than the basalt are, in most if not in all cases, certain indexes of the favorable localities for silver deposition, and more careful and intelligent prospecting should be re- warded by uncovering ore concentrations of economic value in hundreds, if not thousands, more districts within the many mountain ranges. Also, asa rule, no croppings of the precious minerals have been noted along the south- western portion of the Colorado Plateau, visited in 1871; but the Great Tonto Basin has responded to the hardy prospector, with returns from its hidden wealth, in a number of points, not known in 1871. The railroad lines constructed within this area since 187i (at which date it was necessary to use the Central Pacific asa base) are: (1) the Pali- sade and Eureka; (2) the Battle Mountain and Austin; (3) the Atlantic and Pacific; and (4) the Southern Pacifie touching the 1871 area in its more southern route from Florence to Tucson. A railroad from Carson City to the southeast, thence to follow south- ward, and to the east of the Sierra Nevada, has also been constructed as far as Owen’s Lake. As mines develop, advantage should be taken of the meridional valleys, with low passes to the north and south, through which to carry lines be- longing to the north and south systems, needed for the proper development of the country. The only lakes known to exist in the entire area of more than 72,000 square miles are Fish Lake, Nevada, and Owen’s Lake, California. The Alpine Lakelet view (Plate IT, a lithograph photographically based and representing a mountain water gem) is typical of the mountain reservoirs so frequently found, more particularly in the glacially carved ravines of the eastern flanks of the ALPINE LAKE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA, NEAR CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALA oor : 1% . - ves os - , 7 . . é é ) i ‘ f are : i” 7 x fs : ‘4 ; : aa 4 Sve “ oe LIBRANY ee: » OF THE } Sete Pr ; iy r SONICS SITY OF ILLINGSS “3 Li yt : . » = < : re us am : —— ¢ ( t ; ' ‘ oe ’ es ' . : B ' ; F = A & : a a a ) 7 a be «x a ‘, 4 ( Ne U : ” Yr Tos : - i eG - ss ! ate LUdHCNI dNVO UVEN ) VAVAUN VHUAIS AHL 40 MNVId NYFLSVE “LOIMLSIC JDUVSUVEM ‘SHYOM ONININ SOUVSHVEH EXPEDITION OF 1871. 4] Sierra Nevada, and marks also the storehouse of moisture which, emanating from the perennial snow fields higher in the mountains, finds its source as well as the rug- ged nature of its surroundings nearly at the level of where perpetual snow begins. The peculiarity of the Plateau drainage, the aqueous cutting having been largely through homogeneous beds, has not been favorable to lake formation, although the rain and snow fall would amply supply very large natural reservoirs, while north of the Colorado, and until the rim of the Great Interior Basin is reached, the Cretacous sea might not so long ago, geologically speaking, have extended, and again to the northward the present condition of desiccation, inherent to this large expanse of desert, does not now admit of the storage of water in these natural trough- like reservoirs, they having for the most part become detrital valleys, while evidences of old lacustrine beaches are noted in Owen’s River and other valleys to the northward, similar to the Lake Bonneville, the western edges of which were discovered in 1869 and further developed in 1872, so have other ancient lake beaches within the Great Interior Basin been dis- covered and their perimeter and relative elevations determined. Outside of the streams noted, the water from any source was precarious and little in the extreme for the entire area north of the Colorado River and to the south as far as the rim of the Colorado Plateau, where, although the rain and snow fall becomes considerable, the number of permanent springs is still small, partly it is believed on account of the high percolating power of the underlying rocks. Plate IIT represents the surroundings of a typical mining enterprise, the Kear- sarge, being the principal property high up among the eastern flanks of the Sierras, in proximity to and westward from Camp Independence, Cal., with which it is con- nected by wagon-road, terminating at the mines, far distant from railroad transporta- tion, and where a turbine wheel of 135 inches in diameter, driven by a small stream diverted from its mountain course, and given a fall of 156 feet, accumulates the force required to operate a twenty-stamp quartz mill, and proves a most valuable substitute for steam power. The buildings, made of rough sawed pine, and the tramway to the mouth of the mine, appear in the foreground and center of the illustration. The rude, simple, at the same time wild and rugged exterior of these pioneer camps can readily be un- derstood from the plate, which has been engraved from a photograph taken on the ground. The district contains fissure veins of silver-bearing ores, mostly carbonates. 42 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. A cave eroded by water from mountain limestone was visited near Mineral Hill, similar to one in Cave Valley, Nevada (1869), although of less extent. ‘The orifice leads into a large chamber fully 60 feet in width by 70 feet in length, and from 40 to 50 feet in height. This chamber leads * the main channel about 150 feet, then apparently closing, the sides Oo t=; alon being covered with brilliant erystallizations. The northern half of the 1871 area lies wholly within the Great Inte- rior Basin, and the observations serve to fix its southern rim, hitherto but illy defined, from the point at which it cuts the Utah boundary westward to the Sierra Nevada. The degree of desiccation reached in this portion of the Great American Desert, especially in Death and Termination Valleys, the Amargosa Desert, and the sink of the Mohave, is a maximum; and extending northward through Ralston and a number of other valleys in Southwestern Nevada, and to the southward in the valley of the Colorado, the arms of the desert elongate, making one continuous chain of desert surroundings from the Mexican bor- der as far north as the plains of the Columbia River in Oregon. There are oases, indeed, within this long and wide expanse, and vegetation appears even where all signs of humidity are absent, but the secular change being now one of desiccation apparently holds sway over all. While the wet and dry of the cycles of maximum and minimum rainfall are not yet determined the averages of a given number of years afford but an inadequate, if not incorrect, idea of the climatic oscillations in progress. No coal croppings were reported during the entire trip except slaty beds, comparatively unopened, near Carlin, Nev. The area reconnoitered geologically was from 700 to 800 miles north and south and 100 to 250 miles east and west, the full report of which contains much detail concern- ing structure. The observations were facilitated by the absence of trees and soil, and large experience was had by the geologists in the broad field of generalization on account of the extended region under view. Volcanic beds are strewn with a liberal hand over the country to the southwest of 'Tim- pahute Range, in Oasis Valley, Amargosa Desert and Death Valley regions, while south of Termination Valley a large expanse of impassable basaltic beds EXPEDITION OF 1871. 43 (quite recent) lift their frowning, impenetrable, and almost jet-black heads. The granite ridge, forming the backbone of Telescope Range and falling ~ away to the northward, joins the extensive volcanic beds lying eastward of the line of summits, which face directly on Death Valley, presenting rough, ribbanded walls (made up of different-colored lava flows), to the westward falling in gentle outline to the valleys through an eroded opening, of which, at the eastern end of a grand granite amphitheatre, a stream breaks as if by magic from the ground and keeps above the surface, being one of the few water-courses in the Death Valley region, and known heretofore, as were so many similar cases, only to Indians. The eastern slope of the Telescope Range makes an exceedingly abrupt descent of fully 10,000 feet into Death Valley, the area due east from Telescope Peak being below sea-level. The view of this escarpment from the heart of Death Valley is among the most picturesque of mountain scenes, and only equaled by portions of the long, continuous, seemingly perpendicular walls of portions of the Sierra Nevada facing Owen’s River Valley. The geological and mineral collections, and others in the several natural history branches (in zoology, botany, fossils, &c.), went to swell the large and varied collections turned over to the Smithsonian Institution during a period of ten years, no detailed record of the contributions having been kept at the Office of the Survey until subsequent to 1876. The remnants of ruins of a former race were noticed at many new places in Arizona, nothing special having been observed north of the Colo- rado. There is a wide field of search in the basins of the tributaries of the Gila, Salt, and Verde Rivers and of southern portions of the Colorado itself, some points of which have been touched upon in later expeditions, and much of which remains as unexplored ground. Of the latter the valley of Canon Creek, reaching Salt River within the Tonto Basin, as well as other streams having their sources along the southern rim of the Colorado Plateau, are still, so far as known, both unprospected and unopened. The portion of the Interior Basin, to which the name of Great Ameri- can Desert has been applied, was entered along its widest expanse, traversed along a number of lines, its little oases made known, its general mountain, 44, U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. valley, and drainage configuration established, with such details as were possible to obtain in a terra incognita of so great extent, so difficult of access, and with no single route for hundreds of miles in any direction hitherto be- ing known. The most striking change was noticed in the transit from the low desert-like valleys of Southwestern Nevada, Utah, and Eastern Cali- fornia to the high, rolling plateau of Northern and Eastern Arizona, where the succession of high serrated ridges, so common to the northern area, disappear, being replaced by sedimentary strata, covered by large lava flows, and forming a region well grassed and wooded, of good climate, and highly picturesque scenery. The southwestern portion of the Great Inte- rior Basin, a considerable portion of which was demarked for the first time, is made up of a number of local inclosed interior basins, like the Owen's River, Death Valley, and Amargosa, either of them terminating in an alka- line flat or a reservoir like Owen’s Lake. Pretty conclusive evidence was obtained connecting the basins of Death Valley and Amargosa with that of the Mohave, as a part of the same land-locked area, although the line of junction was not actually fol- lowed from the depression between the two former with the reservoir sink of the latter. The valleys of Southwestern Nevada and Eastern California are, with scarcely an exception, sandy desert wastes, generally accompanied by the typical alkaline flat and mountain-locked. The ranges are, in the main, of sedimentary formation, resting on granite, with, usually, numbers of geo- logic horizons exposed, through which voleanic beds of varying forms and ages have been interjected, constituting a series of wave-like anticli- nals or reversed synclinals, along the latitude of 38° north from the Sierra Nevada to the Wahsatch, a veritable ocean of mountains. As _ before stated, only isolated farming spots occur, considerable grazing, more usually in the foot hills, a scanty supply of timber, with great mineral possibilities, but with an infrequent and inconstant supply of water is found almost everywhere. The expedition gave a clear insight into the Grand Canon system and served to determine a part of the perimeter of the Great Colo- rado Plateau, first recognized by the writer in 1868. As a type of the JXPEDITION OF 1871. 45 “ Box Canon” regions of Arizona, the country drained by the Santa Maria from the Aquarius Range to the Juniper Mountains, is the most intricate, interesting, and difficult. This was traversed in a northeasterly direction by myself and southerly by Lieutenant Lyle, and embraces about 12,000 square miles. The eroded walls of lime and sandstone are basalt-capped, presenting every variety of contour, black, ugly, and frowning, with escarpments im- possible of ascent or descent, except in friendly openings where the drainage of minor side ravines had cut out more gentle slopes. This region was the stronghold of the Apache-Mohaves, where they had hunted and fished for unnumbered generations, and more lately murdered to their hearts’ content. The area embraced by this expedition falls within and will be found delineated upon the following Atlas Sheets, sixteen in number, viz: 39, 40, 48) 49)57,,58, 99, 65, 66, 67, 73,.74,.75, 16, 83, and 89. A reference to this expedition may be found as Appendix DD, A. R. Gromer, 1872; also A. KR. C:. of E., 1871, p. 103. Novre.—As a specimen of the hardships of the campaign, the march from the northwest arm of Death Valley via Termination Valley to the Inyo Range may be cited. The route lay for more than 39 miles in light, white, drifting sand, which was traversed between 5 a.m. and 6p. m., the center of the desert being reached about meridian. The stifling heat, great radiation, and constant glare from the sand were almost overpowering, and two of the command succumbed near nightfall, rendering it necessary to pack one man on the back of a mule to the first divide on the route, where a grass sward was reached at the end of the long, sandy stretch, while the second, an old and tried mountaineer, became unconscious for more than an hour in nearly the same locality. This happened, fortunately, near 6 p. m., when the sandy waste was mostly behind us. With water from the canteens these men were restored to con- sciousness, and the march resumed by moonlight, without trail or guide. A living stream was reached between 3 and 4 a.m. at the eastern base of the Inyo Range, after a continuous march of over twenty-three hours. Other marches of this trip, but not in quite such desert sections, have extended from fifty to sixty and even eighty hours, with scarcely a single halt. EXPEDITION OF 1872. The survey received the specific sanction of Congress by act approved June 10, 1872, made in pursuance of a project laid before the Committees on Appropriation of the House of Representatives and Senate for the de- 46 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. tailed topographic survey of the entire territory of the United States west of the one hundredth meridian.* The area embraced by this season’s work approximates 47,366 square miles (Arizona, 11,766; Nevada, 5,384; and Utah, 30,252 square miles). It lies for the larger part within the Great Interior Basin, the balance be- longing to the central portion of that of the Colorado of the West.* The principal canons within the area are the Grand, Marble, and Ice- berg, of the Colorado of the West, the Kanab and Paria, of its northern tributaries, the Provo, &e. Partial itinerary or rough notes of trip from Provo River and Valley to Strawberry Valley, thence via Spanish Fork and Thistle Creeks to Sam Pitch Valley, thence eastward along edges of Castle Valley and return, thence reaching Little Salt Lake Valley, via head of Sevier, to head of Virgin River (See Atlas Sheets 50, 59, and 67.) August 10, 1872.—Left camp at Provo, ascending the banks of the river of that name, entering the canon, which has cleft its way through the entire Wahsatch Chain at this point. A wagon road for transportation of coal and other supplies from valleys beyond to Utah Valley leads through this canon to Provo Valley. “This project has never been in print, but was a plan substantially for a complete connected continuous detailed topographic survey (with associated natural history observations) of the territory of the United States west of the one hundredth meridian, with primarily a resultant topographic map scale 1 inch to 8 miles, to be in the main an aid to military administration and operations, to occupy about 15 years, and to cost, in all, not exceeding $2,500,000. Independent of all other information given in the various publications of the survey, a reference to its extent, methods, cost, and cost of completion will be found as Inclosure No. 3 to Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 21, Forty-fifth Congress, third session. It was to have been the first great general survey of the country during its initial stages of settlement. * NovtE.—The following is the general line of the routes followed by the officer in command during the field season of 1872, departed from in the various mountain camp- ing and climbing detours necessary for detailed observations and the practical execu- tion of the work: From camp near Salt Lake City to mining districts about Parley’s Park and return; to Little Cottonwood Canon and return, via heads of American Fork and Big Cottonwood Canon; thence to Provo, Utah; thence to Spanish Fork via Provo Valley and Canon and Strawberry Valley; thence to Thistle Valley via Spanish Tork; thence to Utah Lake Valley and circuit to Sam Pitch Valley via Nephi; thence to the eastward across the range and along flanks of Castle Valley and returning to Sam Pitch Valley (without trail); thence to Nephi via Gunnison; thence to Fillmore; thence to Beaver and Panquitch via Parowan; thence via Sevier Plateau and head of Virgin River Valley and Canon to Toquerville; thence to Saint George; (all in Utah) thence to mouth of Grand Wash, and via Stone’s Ferry to Hualapais District and Mountains (Arizona); thence returning northward via Meadow Valley to Pioche, and thence to the Central Pacific Railroad at Palisades, Nevada. EXPEDITION OF 1872. 47 A beautiful twin, or double cascade, with a fall of more than 100 feet, breaking from the south face of the canon walls, immediately south of the ford, is formed by a little mountain stream, heading in a lateral canon. Tired, wet, and hungry, camp is made (about 9.30 p. m.) near and opposite the mouth of the South Fork of the Provo River. Fresh discoveries of argentiferous galena (similar to the beds in American Fork Cation) were reported on the North Fork of the Provo River, not far from its confluence. A quarry of variegated marble is found on Snake Creek, near the Hot Springs visited in eastern portion of Provo Valley. A spring from which sulphur fumes escape continuously was passed (temp. 72° F.). The principal spring of the Provo Valley Group, of which the crater-like mound is the highest (67 feet above base), bubbles up a miniature volcano with a temperature of 1089 F. Several clusters are visited within a radius of 1,000 yards, with temper- atures as low as 88° F., and with colors of bluish, greenish, and bluish-black tints. Many scattered over quite a space in this wide, open valley were noticed as extinct. This group can aptly be called the ‘‘ Voleano” springs. The eastern flanks of the Wahsatch, facing toward Provo Valley, show denuded faces with much clearness, the beds making up the Wahsatch Chain, in the shaded valleys of which, near the summit, permanent snow is found. August 13, 1872.—The route from Provo to Strawberry Valley follows Daniel’s Creek to its source, and thence by a gentle summit or pass to the head of Strawberry Creek, along a natural wagon-road. The “sarviche” berries, so much sought after by the Indians, appear abundant and in full fruit. The beavers, rarely seen by day, still hold possession of the part of the stream in the vicinity of the valley, their dams recurring at short intervals. This was a favorite trapping ground in the days of the | early explorers. Short-leaved pines and mountain firs are met with, not large in diameter, but of extreme height. The groves of quaking aspens increase in size from the edges of either valley to this summit, which marks the divide of the waters between the Great Salt Lake and Colorado Basins, and mountain slopes stretching in many directions are lined with aspen groves as far as the eye may reach. Furniture is sometimes made of the larger specimens; otherwise it is of little use beyond its value for fencing and fuel. Strawberry Valley forms a part of the Uintah Indian Reservation, but it was not in 1872 utilized to any considerable extent by the Indians, and showed an expanse of elegant grazing ground, but probably at too high an elevation for crops at this latitude (altitude, 7,716 feet). It was followed along its western edge for nearly its entire length, whence it was the intention to pass westward into the north fork of Spanish Creek. A fortunate encounter with Indians (White Eye’s band of the White River Utes) put us in possession of an old worn trail, along which, before reaching the summit, a camp was made in the edge of heavy timber. This band numbered seven lodges, with plenty of horses and a few goats, counting 11 bucks, 7 squaws, and 18 children (36 in all). They were on a hunting and fishing trip, and their outfit when mounted formed a unique miniature caravan. They were alarmed at the presence of even a few blue jackets, being absent from their proper reservation. They made the usual begging and palavering Indian visit to our camp-fire just at night fall. A sulphur spring on banks of north fork of Spanish Fork Canon (temp. 111° F.) was noted. 48 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. August 14, 15, and 16, 1872.—A partial rendezvous was made on Soldiers’ Fork of Spanish Creek, and the march continued to Sam Pitch Valley and camp made near a settlement called Wales. A visit was made to opened coal-beds in Coal Cation, among the foot-hills west of Wales. These mines are situated about 14 miles from the Canon, through which flows a tiny creek, making the situation accessible and convenient for mining operations. One of the prospected layers (2 or 3 feet thick) pitches at the point of opening to the southward and dips toward the hill at an angle of about 50°, The beds occur between layers of sedimentary limestone, with a persistent narrow limestone dike, thickness 9 or 10 inches and highly fossiliferous, traversing laterally the entire bed. Immediately below the bed of limestone a deposit of fine quality fire clay, that has been successfully utilized, occurs. Lignite shows at the start and a bituminous coal (said to be coking) is shortly found. Sandstone, in contact with heavy vertical beds of conglomerate, occur at the valley mouth of the canon. August 25, 1872.—A detour to the eastward of the Sevier Valley was planned and a crossing made from near the source of Thistle Creek, about 1'$ miles from which a suminit isreached that either forms the immediate head orin close proximity thereto of six streams, viz: Thistle Creek, Soldiers’ Fork, Strawberry Creek, White River, San Rafael, and Sam Pitch Creeks. The tortuous line of these several water divides was followed in & southeasterly direction until a trail, evidently leading in the direction of Castle Valley, was met and followed. An exploration was made of the drainage approaches to Castle Valley, and as soon as rations ran tow steps were retraced westward to reach Sam Pitch Valley, near Fair- view. This trip was made without trail or guide (the Mormon guide having failed us) and in hourly expectation of meeting with some of the predatory Utes. Coal croppings were also visited in a canon about 7 miles east of Fairview. Found a small opening in narrow limestone strata between layers on either side of sandstone, in which anarrow seam of lignite was developed in a drift of 18 feet, with poor results. Scratchings had been inade in four different canons, and one is reported as show- ing cannel coal with 90 to 96 per cent. of carbon. Coal is reported in large quantities in the bluffs facing Castle Valley, at the head of White River, and seams were noted in a number of localities in this section. Visited a large marine fossil-bed and a vein of bituminous shale—width of the latter 11 inches, with upturned edges. Chips could be ignited with a match, and it is said to distil and make parafline and oil. Extensive chalk beds were also noticed in this vicinity. A canon farther to the north was visited from Fairview, where a coal vein had been developed of thickness from 12 to 24 inches. There isa great future for the coal fields of Central Utah. The waters of the Sevier could be utilized on a considerable scale for irrigation. It is believed that artesian wells could be sunk successfully on the eastern side of the valley about Parowan. Little Salt Lake, that appeared in the days of Frémont as quite a sheet of water, has since entirely evaporated, leaving alone alkaline flats. In noticing the agriculture of portions of the region traversed, it was found that the Mormons were the only people who pursued that branch of industry with regu- EXPEDITION OF 1872. 49 larity, and invariably by the aid of irrigation. In some sections, as Pahranagat Val ley, Nevada, and the location of the Moqui and Zuni Pueblo Indians, in Arizona and New Mexico, by deep planting, crops are raised without resort to irrigation ; bat it is certain that such exceptional success attends only special localities, and is confined to special crops, particularly corn and melons. Alum beds are found in the canons ta the east of Parowan. Indications of coal have been discovered in the center fork of Centre Creek, and. a road is under construction to reach the timber that was being sawed for the Pioche market, a distance of 110 miles. Poplars, thorn, and maple occur along the canon 15 miles out from Parowan. Float copper and silver ore has been noticed in the canon east of Paragoonah. Im- pure black obsidian beds had been prospected east of Beaver and taken for coal. Coal and cheap silver ore were found near the iron mines to the south. Lignite was found near source of creek leading to the Colob plateau in exposed strata of heavy reddish limestone, with irregular, conglomerate, and volcanie beds in vicinity. Considerable heavy timber noted on this plateau, which joins the Par- owan Range. . A steam saw-mill was in process of erection, with over 3,000,000 square feet of lumber within 14 miles, and the mining town of Pioche for a market. The pre- vailing conifer species suitable for timber are the pines (Pinus ponderosa and contorta), the spruce (A. Douglassii), and the fir (Abies Engelmanni). Summit Creek heads at the apex of the alluvial summit that separates Little Salt Lake Valley from the one to the south, and may be cited as an instance of an accumu- lation of detritus, leading to the creation of a sub-inclosed basin. Groves of aspen alternate with patches of pine, partly valuable for timber, along this plateau, between Little Salt Lake and the Sevier, the volcanic cap still continuing to the southward; while sandstone cap occasionally appears, underlaid with lime. Fine specimens of fossil pine leaves and cones are here obtained. Many marine shells collected, and a new species of fir noted. Sundown Valley discovered and named. Usually voleanic material appears on the surface of the Colob plateau, with occasional limestone, sandstone, and shale. There is a fine growth of grass and groves of quak- ing aspen. The pines and firs disappear to the southward toward the valley of the Virgin River. The country to the southward becomes more o;.en and level along the main ridge. Fine water and grass noted on every side. The co-operative Mormon herd of Cedar grazed in this vicinity a distance of nine miles from the settlement. The ground still coutinues volcanic, with here and there points of sandstone, limestone, and shale, the latter profuse with marine shells, similar to those noticed east of Fai: view, with an added bed of fossil oysters three to four feet thick. Skirting the rim of the plateau a break in the wall is finally found, and the train taken down into a box canon along a descent having an angle of fully 55 degrees at the head of Le Verken Creek. The summit of the southern rim, at an altitude of over ten thousand feet, affords one of the finest panoramic views then witnessed (1872)—the Virgin River lying at’ our feet, the Colorado Canon in the distance, plateaus, caonus, and mountains to the east, mountains high and frowning to the north, and the mountains and desert to the west and southwest, the ranges bordering the Colorado, especially the Virgin. Below 4 WH—VOL I 5Q U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. us lay the brown and blaek bristling ridges of the eroded mesas that for grandeur of beauty and desolation of appearance far surpass all that words can express. Clam- bering along the cliff, and while securing a large haul of fossils, the crisp edge of coal crops was noticed, and prospecting which a 12-foot vein of dense bituminous coal, having both above and below a bed of shale 15 to 18 inches thick, was found, with petrified wood strewn in many directions. Fossils were found in sandstone near head of north fork of the Virgin and vol- canic cap on the ridge leading to the head of the Sevier. Clumps of heavy pines were seen in the canons leading to the Virgin from the north; with fine bunch-grass and water here and there. The Sevier heads near the summit of a black voleanic peak to the south of the head of Coal Creek. Following the canon to the northward the eye soon rests on a beautiful lake, nestled in the mount- ains, fringed by the sward of an encircling valley, and set like a gem in the green verdure rising from the siopes on either hand. This lake is formed by the damming of the opening of the valley by black piles of vesicular lava, forming a miniature inclosed basin at the head of the Sevier. Clam- bering over the rough lava by the aid of a blind Indian trail, we suddenly emerge upon a handsome glade-like valley, in which springs up, as if by magic, a creek fully 25 feet wide. This is known as Mammoth Spring, that breaks out from a considerable depth below the volcanic bluff, and gets its water in major part from the reservoir lake. Forests of heavy pines now appear along the valley of the headwaters of the Sevier. The fields of basaltic lava skirted are about 25 miles long and 7 to 10 miles wide. These beds are intruded through the sedimentaries. The fork leading to Panquitch Lake (34 and 14 miles) is reached by skirting lava fields and winding through forests, when a road is found and followed to the settlement on the Sevier. Duck on their migrations southward (September 30) were noted in large numbers, as well as trout in abundance. Indian and other cattle were found grazing in large numbers in the glades and valleys near head of Sevier. The road.from Panquitch to the south is followed, and a summit reached leading to Lorg Valley at the head of Virgin River. The actual heads of the Sevier were found to be multiple and fan-shaped. Sedimentaries, with edges facing southward, mark the transit from the drainage of the Sevier to that of the Rio Virgen. Coal is noticed cropping in a decided manner at lower end of Long Valley. Alum and saltpeter are also found here. Large pines were observed in forest form near the summit leading to Virgin River. Corn, wheat, rye, and a few vegetables can be raised at this altitude. Pass- ing to the basin of Virgin Canon, walls of 200 or 500 feet are encountered. Volcanic cap on the south and limestone on the north are visible from Long Valley. Camp was made at a little stream leading to Virgin River, heading to the north at a distance of about 2? miles, in red limestone. The topographic relief between basin of Sevier and the Colorado, in this vicinity, is rigidly marked by bluffs named indiscriminately Pink and Vermilion. Coal croppings noticed along Paria and Kanab Creeks. The valley of the Virgin River is followed to the main rendezvous at Toquerville.* *Nore.—In the area covered by the work of this year no timber of value except pine, spruce, and fir was found, the most extensive forests being on the Great Colorado Plateau. As the timber of the Government upon these tracts of land is subject to depredation from settlers and squatters, the sugges- “- oie Honaiy THE iwnce tee UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS ’ : - UJ ‘ ‘ 4” eee ae a ”~ “ , 7 rs wu a : : a » r) “a - LIBRARY » oalQE THE > 5 try ee UNIVESSITY OF UINGIS s> 7 : : Ma i : = . e . ie ‘ % ve ; f Je hid % a oe EXPEDITION OF 1872. ol Plate TV is from a sketeh made by Mr. John FE. Weyss, at the mouth of Virgin Canon, near Shoonesburg, Utah, after the dangerous descent of the so-called Wriggle trail in one of the routes through the Virgin River Valley in 1872. Six miles south- west of the settlement called Mount Carmel, the route, known as the Elephant road, connecting the settlements above and below the Virgin Canon, ascending the plateau, leaves the river valley, following a due south course. Our party left this road, near the summit, following a dim trail, running sensibly parallel to the bed of the river (which here begins to cation), thence westerly, passing a sandy valley, traversed by deep ravines, coursing toward the canon of the Virgin. Seven miles brought us to the foot of a high mesa, at which point the trail disappeared, it being necessary to accomplish the ascent en echelon by scaling the successive beds of sandstone. This climb was impracticable for the pack animals, therefore a hand portage, to the very summit, of stores and equipage became necessary. ‘This ascent, begun at about 1 p. m., consumed the whole of the afternoon, and the sun had sunk when the party reassembled on the crest of the plateau. The train camped on the summit without water after a hard and dry day’s march, from which both men and animals were suffering. It was therefore concluded to advance with picked men to the valley below to secure water for the saffering party. After passing a shelf of bare, smooth-worn rock at the mouth of the descent along which it was necessary to slide at will for from 20 to 22 feet, the prints of Indian ponies became discernible, and a blind trail made its appearance. Regardless of the roughness, and threading the way among rock and débris, the descent is begun, soon a narrow shelf of 10 to 12 inches wide is reached, overlooking a deep and dangerous gorge, leading to an abyss cf darkness, which was passed after dusk. For a distance of 14 to 2 miles the trail, or- rather the want of a trail, followed the upturned strata edges, winding in and ont of projecting ledges, which could ouly be skirted in the darkness on hands and knees. It was near 10 o’clock when the small party reached a little trickling stream that soon joins the main river, which was quickly followed after quenching our thirst, on a prospecting tour for the first settlement down the river, which proving to be a few houses (called Shoonesburg, elevation 3,920.5 feet), was reached about 11 p. m., where terms were soon made with the presiding elder, who, besides promising immediately a cup of coffee, invited us to the soft side of a haystack for the night, and into a little vineyard near at hand, wherein the moon acted as a most fascinating guide in pointing out the plump, full-grown, well-ripe clusters of grapes, of the finest cultivated varieties, including the To-kay. Our coming created a sensation, as no party, except on foot, had ever been known to pass this route, unless it were an adventurous mnail-rider with a trusty-led mule, in case of great emergency. Nothing short of considerable blasting could render the trail passable even for pack animals. The situation of Schoonesburg is exceedingly romantic. Mesa-locked as it is by the huge, steep escarpment of the semi-plateau forms at either hand, it lies ensconced in a little opening, a sparkling gem, dropped as it were through the mountains upon tion was made in the annual report of this year, that by legal enactment or otherwise the Government should give protection to its interests and the interests of future settlers in this regard; a suggestion since acted upon through the General Land Office. 52 =U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. the desert. The elevation of the plateau or summit of the Wriggle trail is approxi- mately 2,100 feet above the valley of Virgin River, or approximately 6,020 feet above the sea. Plate V, Dripping Pool, or Fern Spring, is situated in Kanab Canon, which narrows at this point so that the sun only reaches its bed for two hours during the day. The water of the pool, or spring, comes from a tiny lateral stream, intercepted by the erosion of the canon, which, containing mineral substances, has deposited a pro- jection extending about eight feet from the wall of the canon, which is covered with ferns (Maidews Hair—Adiantum capillus Veneris) and smal) flowering shrubs, that being constantly humid, and dripping even, form both a direct and mirrored object of great beauty. At a little distance toward the head of the canon a spring breaks out from the foot of the canon wall, at a temperature of 60° F. The walls at the right of the view are typical of the Colorado Canon series, of which they form a part. Plate VI represents a typical scene from a point of the rim of the plateau edge that divides the waters of the Sevier River from those of the Colorado, in Utah. It is approached from the east fork of the Sevier River, near the southern extremity of Plateau Valley (see Atlas, sheet 59), by leaviug the river near its entrance to the hills and following a more southward course along a valley surrounded by low hills. A gentle ascent of three miles is abruptly terminated by the precipice leading to the head of Paria Creek. These bluffs, consisting of parallel layers of soft red sandstone, fali perpendicu- larly to the eastward, forming the boundary within which lie embedded the headwaters of the Paria. The foreground includes fragments of the main mesa rim, the distant view being the mesas that line the Colorado, the Navajo Mountains rising to a some- what conical summit in the east. The sketch from which the engraving was taken was made on the ground by Mr. John E. Weyss, for many years connected with Western explorations and surveys under the War Department. Plate VII is an engraving from a sketch made by Mr. John E. Weyss at the ford on the Colorado River, known as “El Vado de los Padres,” the (Crossing of the Fathers), from its first having been attempted by white men in 177677, when a Span- ish party under Padre Escalante crossed it in an outward trip from Santa Fe to Great Salt Lake Valley and return. This crossing was approached by the party under Licut. Marshall, U. S. Engineers, by the old Navajo trail leaving Paria settle- ment (the last point of civilization in Utah), ascending a sandy and barren plateau, and following in a southeasterly direction the foot of the high plateau leading out from the Salt Lake Basin rim to the Colorado River. At a distance of 20 miles a mass detached from the plateau, and called Gunshot Mountains, is attained, whence passing a narrow slit-like gorge, 10 or 12 feet wide, appears an amphitheater, out of which a trail issues again upon a rocky plain, reaching after a little more than a mile, a deep narrow canon (represented in the foreground of the view), which is descended over pre- cipitous rocks, the debouche from which opens upon one bank of the Colorado (elevation at for.| 3,193.5 feet). Slight water ripples mark the line of the ford, which is reported as the only one for 300 miles, which of itself is only practicable, and then on horse- Gens By ee Sk il uog gare Se Lari) ee et 4 NA a 7 5 Lina 7 OF Lhe : = yryimelly OF \LLhwls - - : ’ ie y = ® ee ; ; . - ; 7 ny + s Ss : 5 ' 7 7 —. + = : = Bes] a | : | Fi + s ? 7 | 7 EXPEDITION OF 1872. 53 back, at low-water stage. It will be found marked on atlas-sheet 67, at approximate longitude 1119 17’ west from Greenwich, and latitude 37° OV north. This is no longer of practical importance since a ferry has been established at the mouth of Paria Creek. The scene is one of remarkable grandeur aad almost unique in its loneliness. The early explorers whose tracks entered or crossed this season’s area are the following, according to date: (1) Padre Escalante, 1776—77, from Utah Lake southward, nearly through the center. (2) Frémont, 1845, along his southern route to California. (3) Stansbury, 1849-50, in the explorations and surveys ending at Great Salt and Utah Lakes. (4) Gun- nison, from valley of Green River to the Sevier Basin. (5) Lieutenant Beckwith, Pacific Railroad surveys along the thirty-ninth parallel. (6) Lieutenant Simpson, both in his outward and inward routes from the valley of Great Salt Lake to Carson, Nev., and return in 1859. The public-land surveys that had been extended over but little of the southern and western portion of this area have now (1887) carried their subdivision over a much larger portion, especially of the agricultural, grazing, mineral, and timber lands.* . The several tribes of Indians found within this section were: (1) The Uintah Utes, (2) White River Utes, (3) Pahvants, (4)-Pah-Utes, (5) Seviches, (6) Hualapais, and (7) Apache-Mohaves. Of these the Pahvants, Pah-Utes, and Hualapais were friendly; the Utes and Seviches semi- friendly ; the former being engaged in a raiding expedition that required the presence of troops to drive them back upon their reservation at Uintah and White River agencies. Therefore it was necessary to campaign east of the Wasatch in the presence of these Indians, who were evidently in no friendly mood, with a small party of nine persons. The only one who failed us in this emergency was the Mormon guide, a local judge (!), from one of the valley settlements. Chief Douglas, of the White River Utes (afterwards so intimately connected with the Meeker massacre of that agency), together with the war chief of the Uintahs (Tabby), interviewed us at the camp near Provo, and subsequently left for the mountains, the safe scene of all Indian murders and ambuseades, in the same direction that we were to follow. *NoTre.—Surveys by General Land Office up to June 30, 1886, had subdivided 12,910,540 acres, or 20,173 square miles, in Utah, out of an estimated total of 84,476 square miles for the whole Territory. 54 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, The Pah-Utes inhabit the country about the heads of the Sevier River, Santa Clara Creek, and parts of the Muddy and Virgin Valleys. The Utes, in several bands, inhabit the range in Grass Valley and other valleys about Fish Lake and in the San Rafael. The Scheavwitz live along the valley of the Colorado, in the Grand Wash, and canons and valleys leading into it. The tribes encountered wor- ship the sun, and agriculture is scarcely known among them. The Mormon flocks and herds dot the foothills of the valleys of the Sevier River and its tributaries, and gradually are expanding southward, already (1872), preparing to cross the Colorado River at the mouth of the Paria for settlements on the Little Colorado. The policy of the Mormons has been to discourage mining, and it is only since the Gentiles (so-called) have entered the country for its subjugation and settlement that it bids fair some day to become the theater of a very important, prominent, and perma- nent mineral industry, especially as railroad communication north, south, east, and west is now only a question of the near future as population increases. The opening of the silver mines calls for coal and iron, and the latter, rich and plentiful, must some day command more than a local market. In 1872 the surface had been only touched in any of the localities coming under inspection, and it was too early to state with clearness the true charac- ter of the ore deposits; enough was seen, however, to justify sanguine expecta- tions, especially at the Ontario mine, that has since been so large and regu- lar a producer of bullion, Coal in Sam Pitch and Castle valleys and on the northern fork of tributaries to the Virgin River promised to produce an economic and reliable coke. The principal commercial routes through the 1872 area were the Utah Southern Railroad, from Salt Lake City to near Provo, thence a stage line to the southward via Fillmore to Pioche, with a branch to Beaver, Toquer- ville, and Saint George. The Denver and Rio Grande, now extended to Salt Lake City, enters the area of 1872 along the route originally selected by Gunnison, and upon which a military wagon-road bearing his name was constructed. There had lately been a rude wagon-road constructed to the mouth of Paria, a creek where the well known Mormon desperado and leader of the EXPEDITION OF 1872. 535) Mountain Meadow massacre, Maj. John Lee (who was later shot standing in his coffin to expiate his crime under the law), had established a ferry for emigrants passing southward. The next ferry on the Colorado was at the mouth of the Virgin, a new thoroughfare for miners and others to North- western and Western Arizona. With the exception of the route to Pioche, there was no east and west route of communication—a more southwesterly one across a wide arm of the desert, known as the Los Angeles route, was, however, still employed by hardy bands of prospectors and occasion- ally by emigrants. Of the precious and economic minerals the following were observed, viz, gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, sulphur, gypsum, salt, chalk, bismuth, coal, &c. The southwestern portion of Utah has its silver, coal, and iron mines of great extent. The mineral resources of the several mountain ranges have been prospected, which has led to developments in several prominent mining districts and the cultivation of arable ground in the canons adjacent for local supply. By the use of canal irrigation, in a rather primitive way, the Mormons have been able to make the desert smile with productive fields, gardens, and grass plots, the area brought under successful and safe cultivation increasing from year to year. However, frequent droughts make it unsafe to attempt to irrigate the semi-mesa benches of loose, porous soil, while large and systematic schemes of irrigation may yet increase to a considerable extent the available acres, especially in those basins fed by the Wahsatch system of mountain ranges. * Many of the routes of the season were along the eastern rim of the Great Interior Basin, the exact limits of which were more clearly defined, and thus commencing with the expedition of 1871 and concluding with that of 1878, the entire perimeter line of this peculiar inter-plateau, land-locked structure (the “Great Interior Basin” of Frémont) was traced and de- marked, with the exception of a small part of its northern boundary. The portion of the Great Interior Basin visited this year is by far the best watered and has really proven a land of promise for the Mormons, and * NorEe.—The conclusion was reached that as the region of perennial snows in the western mount- ains are few in number and trifling in extent, the areas which can be permanently irrigated are largely limited by the absence of this source of water supply. 56 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. is susceptible of considerable increase in settlement. Fourteen thermal or mineral springs lie along the routes of travel, with temperature varying from 72° to 185° F. The geological examinations furnished matter of particular interest. In general characteristics the northwestern portion of the region surveyed showed narrow mountain ridges, a part of the Cordillera system, composed of crushed and altered Paleozoic rock, alternating with rather broad valleys half filled with waste of the mountains. In this region granitoid rocks are of frequent occurrence, with many metalliferous veins. Considerable areas are occupied by lavas. The southeastern portion is the Upper Colo- rado plateau system, the rocks ranging from the Tertiary to the Devonian. The strata are undisturbed and easily observable in the numerous and ex- tensive canons. Coal in inexhaustible quantity, and widely distributed, is found in this region. In the Schell Creek Range, about White’s Peak, Nevada, terminal mo- raines of five or six glaciers were found, descending to 8,000 feet in altitude. On a flank of Union Peak, Nevada, are moraines, and an alpine lake, and from Old Baldy Peak two moraines, of which one contains a lakelet at an altitude of 9,000 feet, are to be seen. The glaciers of this region seem to have been confined to the high mountain ridges, and the evidence is against general glaciation. The limits of an ancient fresh-water lake which covered Great Salt Lake and Desert, Sevier Lake and Desert, and in all an area of 18,000 square miles, or about equal to that covered by Lake Huron, were care- fully examined. This lake, for many reasons given in the appendix to the Annual Report for 1872, is supposed to have marked a temporary climatal extreme, contemporary with the general glaciation of the northern portion of the continent, and at high altitudes, local glaciation in the western mountains. Deposits similar to those of recent time are discovered beneath those of the period of the great fresh-water lake. The outlet of this lake was towards the Columbia River. From the ob- servations made, a map has been constructed showing the restored outlines of the ancient, though geologically recent, lake, named Lake Bonneville. EXPEDITION OF 1872. SYT At Provo a species of whitefish, native of the fauna of Puget Sound, was discovered to be abundant; and this fact may be taken in corroboration of the theory of the outflow towards the Columbia River of the former Lake Bonneville. The introduction a few years previously of the Eastern quail was found to have resulted in a considerable increase throughout the section of coun- try where first set at liberty, and it was deemed practicable to successfully introduce salmon, shad, and alewives into the tributaries of Salt Lake. General collections in natural history were made by Surgeon H. C. Yarrow, who rendered most valuable service in this direction, as did Mr. Henshaw in ornithology. The former states the collections of 1872 to have been as follows: 1,426 invertebrate fossils, 800 bird-skins (approx- imate), a large number of mammals, several hundred fish, 16 species new to science, 5,000 reptiles, insects, shells, plants, &e., and also a number of Indian crania, and a lot of ethnological specimens. These specimens, after having been reported upon by eminent specialists, were deposited with the Smithsonian Institution for the use of the National Museum. Excavations were made near Provo, Beaver, and Paragoonah, Utah. At the former a number of stone mills, pestles, arrow-heads, pottery, bones of animals, several domestic implements, and an almost perfect skeleton were discovered. ‘Time did not permit of more than superficial examination, with slight excavations among the 400 to 500 mounds near Paragoonah. Both of these localities are worthy of a more extended search. Ute and other vocabularies were collected. All that has been accom- plished in archeological researches appears as so much clear gain in addi- tion to the results for which the survey was primarily organized, 7. e., the topography of an extended area. The topographic detail secured by this expedition will, in the main, be found reduced upon Atlas sheets Nos. 49, 50, 58, 59, 66, and 67. 58 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. EXPEDITION OF 1873. The area entered this year aggregates approximately 72,500 square miles, distributed as follows: Arizona, 20,175; Colorado, 19,892; New Mex- ico, 28,632; and Utah, 3,801 square miles. The main body of the expe- dition operating from Santa Fe, N. Mex., confined its labors to the basins of the Rio Grande, de Chelle, Little Colorado, Gila, San Francisco, and Salt Rivers, and the numerous creeks entering them, especially about the sources of the four latter streams. Sections under Lieutenants Hoxie and Marshall; United States Engineers, operated independently of the main body, the former from Salt Lake City as an initial point, and in the basins of Great Salt Lake, Sevier, Green, and Large and Little Colorado Rivers, while the latter, entirely detached, set out from Denver, confining itself principally to the basins of the Arkansas, Gunnison, and Rio Grande.* The streams which flow through the principal mountains and valleys furnish along their banks natural and artificial routes of intereommunication and exit to exterior areas, details of which are to be found on Atlas Sheets Nos. 52, 59, 60, 61, 62, 67, 68, 76, 77, 88, and 84 (see scheme of Atlas Sheets for United States, and description of maps in Appendix B). The important canons, other than the Grand Cation of the Colorado, are, those found at the heads of the Gila, San Francisco, Bonito, and Salt Rivers in Arizona and New Mexico; of Paria Creek and Castle Valley in Utah, and the Gunnison in Colorado. The routes of early explorers traversing the 1873 area are found to be eleven in number, as follows: (1) Padre Escalante, from Santa Fe to valley of Great Salt Lake and return; (2) Lieutenant Pike, 1807, from near Bent’s Fort, on the Arkansas, to the Rio Grande, near junction of Conejos Creek; (3) Captain Frémont, in his routes westward, alone valleys of Up- ’ , ’ 5 B) *Nore.—The following are the main routes followed by the officer in command: By stage to Santa Te, N. Mex.; thence to Fort Wingate; thence northward beyond Old ort Defiance and return to Wingate; thence to Camp Apache, via Zuni and Colorado Chiquito crossing; thence, via main fork of White Mountain Creek, to summit of Sierra Blanca Range; thence north and eastward, south and eastward, and southward returning to Camp Apache; thence to Fort Wingate and Santa Fe, and thence to the railroad at Pueblo, Colo. EXPEDITION OF 1873. 59 per Arkansas (1844) and Upper Rio Grande (1845); (4) Lieutenant-Colonel Cooke, 1846-47; (5) Lieutenant-Colonel Emory, from Rio Grande west- ward, 1846-47; (6) Lieutenant Simpson, to Canon de Chelle and return (1849); (7) Captain Sitgreaves, from Zui villages westward to Colorado River, 1851; (8) Captain Gunnison, 1853, from San Luis Valley to that of Gunnison River; (9) Lieutenant Whipple, Pacific Railroad Survey along thirty-fifth parallel, 1853-54; (10) Captain Beckwith, Pacific Railroad Surveys, 1854; and (11) Lieutenant, now Brevet Major-General, Parke, eastward to Fort Fillmore, Tex., from Colorado River, Pacific Railroad Surveys, 1854. The publie-land surveys during the period between the examination on the ground and the issue of the final maps have been prosecuted with vigor in many of the regions (especially in Colorado), and while connection was made in all practical cases on the ground, advantage has also been taken of the later sectionizing details, if any, to indicate new roads and settlements and other later permanent improvements. PARTIAL ITINERARY. Fort Wingate, N. Mex. to Fort Defiance, Ariz., &c., July 21, 1873.—Camp was made about 1 mile east of wagon road, about midway to Old Fort Defiance (Indian agency of the Navajoes) at Rock or Sheep Spring. The water seeps from the upper surface of a soft shale, underlying a red sandstone, with a slight dip to the northeast. This latter bed always carries more or less water on account of its permeability. Mexican bull teams carrying Government stores to the Indian agency were noticed encamped on road at Stinking Springs (so called from the odor of sulphureted hydrogen); the dry bed of the Puerco was passed at a bridge a little further on, when, leaving the valley along a northwest course, Rock Springs are reached, at a distance of about 22 miles. The next day camp is made toward evening at the old post of Defiance. Subsequently a detour about 15 miles to the north and east is taken to the garnet and ruby fields. A ride of 10 miles brings one near the head of the drainage line passing through Defiance. A little rounded knoll in the valley below, covered with a reddish soil, in- terspersed with conglomerate pebbles, shows many garnets on the surface. The formation of the dry interior valley, marking a point of the garnet beds, shows on either side the persistent and familiar red sandstone bed, resting conformably upon mountain limestone, the prominent feature of the frequent mesas of the Little Colorado basins. Underlying it is found in many of the explored horizons a strata of bituminous coal. The extent of this apparently immense bed, as yet but imperfectly traced, covers thousands of square miles in Northwestern New Mexico and Northeastern Arizona. Scattered through the valley in question, often on the surface of burnt basaltic lava 60 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. in loose débris, evidently washed from a bed of greenish, soft tufa that persistently breaks through the nearly horizontal sedimentary strata at varying angles, at horizons within the reach of the eye, were quantities of garnets and aqua-marines. A small emerald was also found on the surface, and rubies of fine texture and color have been found in the same locality. Were it not for the dearth of water, coupled with the fact that the points at which these gems have been discovered are on a Government reser- vation, there can be no doubt but that this locality is worthy the search of intelligent prospectors versed in the alluvial and fixed formations known to furnish precious stones of the varieties named. Fort Wingate, N. Mex., to Fort Apache, Ariz., August 5, 1873.—Leave camp at 6 a.m., via Zuni Villages and Little Culorado, for one of the survey camps at Cold Spring, northeast of Camp Apache. The route crosses the spur-like divide of the southern branches of the Puerco and the northern tributaries of the Zuni, one of the obstructions of a route from the Rio Grande in Southern Colorado to Eastern and Central Arizona.* The route is {frequently relieved by little park-like openings, fringed or surrounded by irregular growth of forest pines (Pinus ponderosa) on either hand, with fine graz- ing (bunch and grama grasses predominating), with also a wealth of shrubs and flow- ering plants of a semi-tropical character, water alone being wanted to perfect the scene. Oak groves with mistletoe growth were occasionally noticed, and fir usually at elevations above 8,000 feet. At Nutrias, a Zuni outpost, is found a little pueblo town occupied by Zuni Indians, which, together with those of the Zuni village proper and that of Ojo del Pescado and Ojo Caliente, make four of the seven sites that once were settled by these village Iidians, the ruins of three others being now found near Deer Springs (Ojo Benado), Tule Springs, and at au adjacent point on the line between them and not far distant from the former. Here are noted large herds of goats and sheep, the property of both Navajoes and Zunis. Timber is still abundant, while it becomes dwarfed at Pescado and almost absent at Zuni proper. Below 7,000 feet in this section of the plateau region timber is scarce, becoming abundant at $,000 feet, and so continuing to an altitude of fully 10,000 feet. The route leads out of the Nutrias Valley along denuded portions of the plateau system (sand and limestone beds, the equivalent of those in the Puerco Valley pre- dominating) into that of the Zuni proper, reaching the direct road to the villages, two miles west of the Pescado. The artemisia of the Western plains was frequently noticed with pinon pine and serub cedar prevalent, interspersed with heavy pine timber at intervals, especially at higher altitudes, along the day’s march. August 6, 1873, en route to and at Deer Spring Camp.—A few miles brings one to small irrigated fields at Black Rocks. Water appears at crossing of the Zuni near the pueblo (found slightly alkaline, the water in a well upon which the town is built prov- ing sulphurous). Most of the cultivated patches were of corn, while little groups of squashes and melons, beans, and wheat were noted. In the little gardens near the town, onions, tomatoes, and caraway were seen. They were watered by hand by the *Norr.—Since the construction of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad, Northeastern Arizona is made more accessible from Holbrook Station, on the Little Colorado, EXPEDITION OF 1873. 61 women from large ollas carried on the head, some of which were ornamented with con- siderable taste. The best corn fields were watered by irrigation ditckes from the river (nearly dry at this date). Most of the Zuni herds were at the Nutrias and at Pescado The principal beast of burden is the jack, while horses are also used. The then gov- ernor was Pedro Pino, from whom many items of interest were gathered. The grant from the Spaniards, or rather the Mexicans as asserted by Pedro Pino, covers the following area: Bounded on the north by the dividing ridge between Zuni River and the Puerco, on the east by the summit of the Zuni Mountains, on the south by an east and west line through the Salt Lake, and on the west by the Little Colorado. Many decades since a great storm came and flooded the valley so that their present site was uninhabitable, and it became necessary to take to the mesa, where they lived temporarily (old maps show the position as on a mesa bluff). ‘Their traditions are to the effect that they had always lived in the same spot, and that three other pueblos found to be, one at Ojo Benado, asecond a short distance to the south and east, a third at Tule Spring, now in ruins, were once inhabited.* The valley is left at a southwestern exit. There is a well-marked rainy season at Zuni in July and August. Ojo Caliente, the fourth Zuni pueblo, was noticed in the dis- tance, as also fields of corn, apparently growing out of the sand, but in reality the sand was only a drift covering a dark alluvial earth, found underneath. Black erupt- ive basalts were observed at various points on the march; otherwise the lime and sandstone of the plateau system predominates, the latter approaching a quartzite. It is stated that the winds (from southwest) of the lower Little Colorado and Zuni in April, May, and June are almost hurricane-like and incessant. Young corn is blown up by the roots, against which the Zunis protect the tender growth by branches of cedar placed to the windward. * Nore.—The fact of there being these three ruins, and only that number being traditional with the Zunis, was clearly pointed out to me by Pedro Pino during along and careful conversation. That these villages are the actual ‘‘ Seven Cities of Cibola” visited by Coronado in his famous expedition of 1540 appears quite probable. The narratives of the officers of the expedition and of historians of the times agree as to the exaggeration and di ception practiced upon the Spaniards by the imaginative tales of Fra Marco de Nig¢a, and describe the main of the ceven cities at about 25 miles distant from a river where wild flax had been found (probably the Little Colorado or Flax River), approximately the actual distance from Zuni to the bridge at the Colorado Chiquito crossing. (See Atlas sheet 76.) The position with regard to Tusayan (probably the Mogquis villages) and the Province of Tigeux (probably the pueblos of the Rio Grande north of Albuquerque) and Acuco (probably Acoma), as well as Quivira, corresponds quite well with the historical record of the marches of Coronado and his cap- tains. (See Smithsonian Report of 1869, pp. 309-342. Seven Cities of Cibola, by Simpson. ) The Jate General Simpson, in the article in question, quotes the following as of opinion that the Zuni pueblos were the seven cities: Gallatin, Squier, Whipple, Turner, and Kern. He also arrives at the same opinion from a somewhat extended examination of the Spanish authorities, while Emory - and Abert (as stated by Simpson) incline to locate the seven cities at and along the plateau southeast from Mount Taylor, counting Acoma, the most southerly and isolated as to position and language, as one. and Laguna, Cubero, Poblazon, Pojuate, Moquina, and Cibolleta in order to the northward. The late Mr. Morgan refers the site of the seven cities to the ruins found in the valley of the Chaco, The weight of evidence so far examined leads to the placing of their site at the Zuni pueblos, and this conclusion is strengthened by its proximity to the valley of the Gila, which, it appears, was crossed near the ruin now known as the ‘‘Casa Grande,” and called by the Spaniards (probably) ‘‘Chileitalle.” The entire region occupied by the present and extinct pueblos having been embraced by the sur veys of this office, their location will be found on the published atlas sheets. 62 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEY WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, Timber begins again, pinon and cedar on lower, and large pines at higher levels. August 7.—At Cedar Spring, about 22 miles from the Colorado bridge, the first glimpse of the Sierra Blanca is had, which testifies also to an emergence from the per- sistent plateau so long the horizon. The main peak, in somber blue, stretches well into the horizon, while the verd- ure of the eastern slope of the range does not, at so great a distance, appear so dense as that of the western noted from vicinity of Apache in 1871. These slopes, however, unlike their counterparts (the eastern) in the Sierra Ne- vada, face on smiling valleys and glades well grazed and watered, in a section of rare luxuriance, and marking a grand oasis as compared with the adjacent and more ster- ile portions of the valleys of the Rio Grande, Gila. Salt, and Little Colorado Rivers. Twelve miles beyond Deer Springs the desert-like waste of the Colorado Chiquito, and the familiar greasewood, sand-grass, and sage appear, while the pinon pines even becomes dwarfed and few. After crossing the Quemada, made muddy by the late rains, the Little Colorado is reached after a few miles. It is from 8 to 10 feet wide, with its surface current 6 feet below the banks. August 8.—Near Cave Springs. A fine spring breaks out from a voleanie bluff (basalt) and flows into a small, well-grassed valley, containing both bunch and grama; nestled among the mesa-ridges, scattered pinons appear, and from this point until the Mogollon forest is reached grazing and water are plentiful. A, mineral spring was noticed to the south of the road, some 10 miles toward Apache, where the more rolling hills have become covered with luxuriant bunch grass and occasional clumps of pine. Toward the close of the march the road reaches the timber fringes of the Great Mogollon forest of the San Francisco Plateau, August 9.—En route to and at Oak Grove Camp near Camp Apache, the road runs through a beautiful pine forest, with occasionally little groves of white oak (Quercus undulata) and a few black walnuts of small size. These oaks were abundant, of vigorous growth, exceeding 20 feet in height, with a wood solid and close grained. Bunch and grama grasses were abundant in all the glades or openings which oceasion- ally give a most delightful variation to the immediate landscape. A climb upon a peak near the route reveals a partial view of the Salt River Basin and the connection of this forest with the one explored in 1871 to the south and east- ward of San Francisco Mountains. This peak is a crater cone, as are so many aloug the northern end of the Sierra Blanca, an entirely volcanic range. The first view of the sedimentary breaking out from beneath the lava flows is found near Cooley’s Park, some 8 or 10 miles from Apache. Camp is made in a little oak grove opening, where running water and grass in abundance of themselves afford repose when compared with the reverse picture so frequent in the more desert portions of the trip. August 10,—Reaching Camp Apache, Arizona, an excellentand descending road leads into the branch of the White Mountain Creek, upon which Camp Apache is situated. This stream is followed from a point near Cooley’s Park. SIERRA BLANCA REGION. August 12, 1873. En route to and at Green Corn Camp, East fork of White Mountain Creek. Arrangements were completed for an exploration from Camp EXPEDITION OF 1873. 63 Apache, as a base, to the eastward of the Sierra Blanca, and to include the heads of the East and North Forks of White Mountain Creek, the sourcesof the Little Colo- rado, San Francisco, and Bonito Rivers (tributaries of the Gila), and of the main fork of the Prieto or Salt River. Beyond, a few miles along the ravine of the East Fork, near Camp Apache, so far as could be ascertained, the foot of white man had never trod within these solitudes, and the magnificent expanse of more than 5,000 square miles of mountain, valley, glade, lake, and river lay before us, a true terra incognita. The drawing of the Indians toward the West to agencies at Camp Apache and San Carlos, Ariz., and eastward to Forts Bayard and Tulerosa, and to the Canada Alamosa, New Mexico, had left this a neutral zone, where Dame Nature ruled in all the magnificence of true simplicity. The special party was so equipped that no obstacle or peril of mountain-path finding could impede its movements in any direction, independent of trail and regard- less of the tangled forest or roaring stream. One of the objective points was the summit of the Sierra Blanca, from whence a mountain view unequaled by any within our territory, with the exception of those from the highest summits of the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Ranges, was anticipated, and the results far more than justified the expectation, for beyond description the view from this point (named Thomas Peak) was the most magnificent and effective of any among the large number that have come under my observation. The route for the day was entirely through the valley bottom which gradually narrows, being surrounded on either side by reddish beds of argillaceous limestone in which fossils (presumably ¢arboniferous) had been found. The mesa edges of the rolling plateau were covered with heavy pine of the species Pinus ponderosa (yellow pine) reaching heights of fully 80 feet, another variety (Abies concolor) prevalent in New Mexico though not growing quite as large, and having shorter leaves and cones. These trees quite approach the bed of the stream. Sycamores, mountain oak, and black walnut were also observed. August 13.—The topographers of the party leave camp to ascend a peak to the north and east from which a fair view is obtained toward the head of the stream, which appears densely wooded with pine and fir timber. Here and there a small stream flows in from the north side, furnishing water for the cornfields on the surrounding mesas. On a small eminence was found the rough débris of an old ruin originally constructed of voleanic (basalt) material without cement, and strangely enough without pottery fragments in sight. The volcanic ground passed over proves to be mal pais, and a most serious obstacle to the passage of the train. August 14.—It becomes again necessary to follow the bench on the northern bank of the creek, making one or two crossings exceedingly abrupt at almost impassable points. Several springs are passed flowing from the base of beds of permeable volcanic conglomerate. The springs are usually large, forming little streams flowing at least four or five hundred yards. The elevation gained was approximately 8,000 feet. The horizon was entirely above the sedimentary and in a basaltic rock cap. No sedimentary was found of later age than the Carboniferous, the lava having descended to this horizon, 64 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The northern bank gives by far the best slope. It is accounted for on the suppo- sition that the snow melts first on the north side of the cation, thus giving a special character to vegetation. Strawberry and raspberry vines are seen. Camp is made at some springs densely surrounded by the most elegant evergreen of the Douglas spruce. The fir region has not yet been reached, it being found at greater altitudes. Lakes were spoken of over the divide near the head of the fork,in regard to which the In- dians have a superstitious fear, calling them the Holy Lakes, in which they say the divine mermaid dwells. Elk, mountain sheep, California lion, deer, antelope, wild tur- key are known to be abundant in this range, and their fresh tracks were constantly seen. August 15.—Karly in the day a little stream was met, coming in from the north through a deep ravine from a mesa densely wooded that reaches to the bed of the main creek, the crossing of which was attended with the greatest difficulty, an extem- porized raft being necessary. = Ascending the mesa if becomes necessary to coutour and follow an extensive bay that makes in from the north. This is finally passed.and a dividing ridge that comes in from the north gives a view of the head of two branches of the East Fork. Here it becomes necessary to descend into the ravine of the ost northerly one and follow the stream to its source, and, ascending the slopes of the tortuous divide, a plateau bearing patches of fine bunch grass is reached. From this one looks down into the valley of the North Pork. The animals feast upon the rank and succulent mountain bunch grass. August 16.—By ascending a high peak to the northwest it becomes possible to discover what seems to be a point at which the passage across the range can be made. August 17.—A camp is this day reached near the summit of the Sierra Blanca. The reconnaissance trail of yesterday was followed in the direction of a low divide north of the principal peak. The grades improve, but the spruce timber continues almost impassably thick. Traveling about 5 miles brings one to the 1idge, where a most remarkable panorama spreads before us of dense forests, interspersed with well- watered little valleys and glades covered with luxuriant grass and flowers, of lakes aud running streams sparkling in the sun, all amphitheatered by the grim walls east- wardly by the Datil Range, a part of the continental divide, and also the Tulerosa Range, with mountains to the southeast bordering the Gila, partly opening northward toward the Colorado. Water having been found near the summit, camp is established, and we push ahead to the main peak, where lies within our horizon a landscape view of the grandest scenery, interspersed with agreeable, home-like valleys, vales, and glades in nearly all directions. Outstretched before us lay the tributaries of seven principal streams, the true courses of which were unknown to geography, and only traced conjecturally on maps of this far-distant region, viz, the Colorado Chiquito, the Nutrioso Creek, the San Francisco fork of the Gila, the main head of the Prieto or Salt River, and the Bouito a tributary, and the north and east fork of White Mount- ain River. There are four main peaks within a distance of 10 miles, none of which had before been ascended by white men. The heads of the Colorado Chiquito and Rtio Prieto present a stretch of valley lands far surpassing any I have before seen. The view of the landscape to the east is of the most marvelous beauty of form aud color. Mountain, forest, valley, and stream are blended in one harmonious whole, in size large enough for a State, all falling within the horizon of one point. Few world- wide travelers in a lifetime even could be treated to a more perfect landscape, a true virgin solitude, undefiled by the presence of man. EXPEDITION OF 1873. 65 August 18.—I am satisfied that the valley landscape to the eastward bad never been seen by any white men (1873). Perhaps here and there a few points had been touched while passing up or down at lower levels one of the streams above mentioned without giving any adequate view of the grandeur of the whole. August 19.—Took leave of camp of over 9,000 feet above sea, and moving west of north follow the steep sides of the divide leading to a stream that proves to be the principal head of the west or main fork of the Colorado Chiquito. For some distance after the bed of the stream is reached spruce timber and aspen still continue, pine soon appears, after which comes an opening inclined at an angle of 40°, and covered with a heavy growth of fine bunch grass, interspersed with a variety of flowers in bloom. ; For a little less than 2 miles the grass is of the old crop, then begins the new and juicy growth of the year subsequent to the burning over by fires set by the Indians. The creek here enters a small cation, only to emerge into a broad open valley in the vicinity of the road that leads to Apache. We follow up this fork and reach a most beautiful open park that was seen from the mountains as apparently carrying a stream, which proves to be a fallacy, as the little meadows of the lower portion have flowing water only in spring after the melting snows. The genera! height of the prairie is a little less than 8,000 feet. A nearly northern direction was taken over a rolling, natural park-like country, more beautiful than any artificial or cultivated park could be, and the most attractive landscape ever encountered by me (1883). The-march was continued a little more than 5 miles, to a prominence named Park Butte, it being surrounded by the most beautiful natural parks. The butte commands the whole basin of the west fork, and through it one again traces the volcanic river to the north and west which limits the upper basin of the Colorado Chiquito. August 20.—The train moves along the east side of the valley that surrounds the tributaries of the main west fork and soon crosses an almost imperceptible rolling divide to arroyos flowing in the opposite direction. It is soon discovered, however, that our line from the camp to Park Butte lay but a little to the west of a water-shed between drainage basins, the butte itself occupying one part of the line. Rolling arroyos that take their rise in the timbered ridges of this plateau soon converge and cafion upon reaching harder beds of volcanic flooring until soon water comes to the surface. The name of “Dotted Park” is suggested because of the numerous semi- mound-like structures planted almost regularly over its surface. It should be called either “ Dotted” or “Island” Park. Bear, of the brown, black, and cinnamon color, are common in the eastern parts of the Sierra Blanca Range. The party continues to the eastward and suddenly emerge into a little valley that carries a tortuous stream to the eastward, which we cross and follow in its general direction. We are obliged to leave the valley of the stream mentioned, which flowing into a canon soon turns to theeastward. The course is then left, and, skirting the timber to the north, we desery through an opening two bears feeding. A hunt is organized, but without success, the hunters sleeping out during the night. Meanwhile a 300-pound black bear had been killed after a hard fight. Here the openings are finely clad with nutritious bunch and other grasses. The soil is all volcanic. In the lower of these valleys, and below about 8,000 feet, crops could be raised without irrigation. 5 WH——VOL I 66 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. August 21.—Just at dusk last evening the party attempted to follow a trail, be- came entirely lost and cireled on their tracks, but during the day reached a point near our camp of last night, where two forks come together, which proved to be tributaies of the main Salt River. A topographical party is dispatched east to determine the drain- age of the water-shed upon which we had been traveling the greater part of the previous day. At this elevation spruce, pine,and aspen are found. Below us lies a beautiful valley at the confluence of the two streams mentioned, the soil of which at this alti- tude, and judging from the amount of humidity already noticed, ought to produce cereals, &c., without irrigation, a most valuable consideration in this section. Hvery- where in the openings the most succulent bunch-grass is found in abundance. This section day by day presents beauties and practical features that rank it by far as the most attractive to agricultural settlers of any portion within the limits of explorations in my charge. August 22.—The mal-pais soil, especially where it is nearly horizontal and without drainage, has become so thoroughly saturated that the mules sink belly deep in many places. The narrow valley of the fork entering from the south is followed for 4 or 5 miles, running water being found for two-thirds of the distance. We then cross a rolling, timbered divide, that brings one into a similar valley that ought to lead toward the canon found traversing to the southwest yesterday. ‘This is followed for a time, then turning near to the north and west, pass over a sharp, peak-like divide, from which a view of the lake lying at our feet is obtained. It is about 13 miles in length and three-fourths in width, containing little islands well grassed. Its highest level is denoted by a slightly-marked beach line, fringed with a growth of shrub and apparently now at a medium stage. We found no more than 30 to 36 inches difference between that and high-water mark. The water is accumulated from the rains and is entirely of surface collections, slightly tinctured with vegetable matter. At its ordinary high stages it has no outlet and no stream enters it. August 23.—The park in this vicinity is called Lake Park; an old beach line is reported 12 to 13 feet higher on the western side of the lake. We follow up the line of drainage leading toward the lake from the west, which at certain high stages may have forced the water over the head of this low arroyo. The want of alkaline, saline, and other constituents in its waters must result from the large amount of percolation as compared with the amount of evaporation and the short distance traversed over a volcanic bed. August 24.—A march of a little less than 5 miles, mostly through the timber, brings us to the Rendezvous Camp. This is snugly situated in a point of timber com- manding the beautiful valley of the mountain stream that, rising in the canon of the southeast flank of the Sierra Blanca, flows through park, forest, and valley to enter again a cation prior to its confluence with the main stream, the Salt River. August 25.—This day was spent in camp; parties go out here and there to the eastward and south. A party of Indians, mounted, is reported to have crossed 2 or 3 miles below. So far upon the route no trails except those made by game have been seen, and one would suppose that this very natural garden indeed had been neglected even by the Indians. No ruins are seen after crossing the range to the east, although Mr. Gilbert discovered some in the valley of the Little Colorado. These highland parks have been left to the animal denizens of the forest, to the bear, wolf, elk, deer, antelope, and other mammals, and to the gatherings of the winged families. ' EXPEDITION OF 1873. 67 August 26.—It appears that the rainy season is nearly past, the heavens are par- tially covered in the heat of the day by moving, fleecy clouds that precipitate at in- tervals floods of rain, but the nights are usually clear. No frosts were noted at this camp. Iam satisfied that the extent of country sur- rounding the heads of Colorado Chiquito and Salt River and Rio Prieto will add to our climatic sanitariums one of the most delightful localities on the continent. The winds that have full sway lower down in the basin are here broken by the Sierra Blanea. August 27.—A retrograde movement from this camp is made to reach the so-called Apache and Tulerosa trail. The route lay along broken ridges and through several little valleys, some with running streams and others without, until a very steep cation lying ahead seems to indicate an approach into what is supposed to be the Bonito, but which proves to be still another fork of the Salt River. In a little open- ing the valley is crossed by a stream of considerable size. Here, as has been noticed in several other localities, the grass on one side of a stream will be new, juicy, and thin, because of the burning of the sward during the season, while on the opposite side, where no burning has taken place, the thick tufts of bunch grass spreading into beds offer more abundant food for the animals that have now to depend upon grass altogether for their support. A trip to a divide to the southward shows nothing besides the peaks that have been noticed during the day and beyond which the main fork of Salt River is expected to-lay. In this portion of our territory, where Spanish geographical names are still used, streams of all sorts and sizes have been designated by the name river. August 28.—A party starts ahead from this point to reach Camp Apache, and the remainder follow them in their trail for about 2 miles. A pedestal-like peak, rising above the forest trees and commanding the course of the stream to the south, is ascended. The northern horizon commands in profile a characteristic view of the southern end of the Sierra Blanea, while to the northwest and northeast the regular, wooded slopes of what become, upon a close inspection, regular and broken mesas ot the divide between Salt River and the Gila. To the east the Escudilla and San Fran- cisco Mountains are well defined. Further to the southeast, put in bold characters upon the horizon, are high mesas or plateaus, with irregular edges, and one specially prominent range, because of its height, and still another, extending far to the south- ward, appear to close with the horizon in this direction. To the west the four peaks of the Mazatzal and the Sierra Ancha limit the hori- zon. The mountains facing upon the San Pedro (the Pinal Range) give no point to the view of sufficient interest to determine their identity. To the southwest in strong relief appears what to my belief is the Chiricahua Range, although at such magnifi- cent distances, when noticed from various compass points, it becomes difficult to dictate with precision. One remarkable peculiarity of a view to the south while occupying a central spot in the trough between several meridional ranges is well illustrated by this station. The Chiricahua Range, that in reality trends northeast, appears to have a direction quite southeast, while a range of marked longitudinal extent to the southeast (proba- bly the Mimbres Mountains) has apparently a direction of nearly southeast. This can only be explained on account of the inequality of refraction at different azimuths 68 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. dependent on the character of intervening obstacles and to the vibrations of the atmosphere due to heated upward currents, apparently throwing objects out of a ver- tical plane. August 29.—An early march brings us well ahead on the trip to Apache. A meadow-like opening is reached, that must debouch into one of the north forks of Salt River. In less than 10 miles the canon of the river in question is reached. None of the little park-like openings noted near the main peaks were tributary to this stream, that heads further to the southward and not as near the main peaks as the others. At this crossing no sedimentary rocks had yet become exposed, and no opening, so far as could be seen above or below, large enough for even a small camp. In the meadow spoken of, wild flax was seen in patches; hence it is probable that the cultivated varieties could thrive. No more desirable location could be found for an elegant country residence than this meadow, nestled high among the rocky wooded blutts, peacefully sleeping in beauty, with no sound save the sighing from the trees that line the entire horizon on every side, or mayhap the rustle of the roving wild animals of the mountain forest. The amount of water that can be utilized for manufacturing and mill purposes is sufficient for all that will ever be required. We are now once more among the pines that only reach a certain altitude, here not exceeding 9,000 feet. Spruces are growing searce, while the aspen still remains, a native of many altitudes. Black walnut (Juglans rupestris, var. Major) of medium size are here observed. As was ex- pected, the trail followed is a nearly latitudinal one, that has been traveled from time to time by Indians en route from Tulerosa to Apache. Many of the smaller streams now flowing will run dry later in the season. At3 p.m. a party arrives from Apache with provisions, and, Lieut. Tillman reports, bringing mail and other material—quite an event in our forest life. August 30.—The trail from this point follows nearly a due west course for a few miles, then, turning toward the north, comes out near the head of the cafion from the south that was noted as in full view to the east of south from the hill ascending near Green Corn Camp, the scene being at once grand and striking. Making a steep descent, we commence the zig-zagging process along the mesa that faces the east fork, and emerge into the narrow valley of the stream directly opposite Green Corn Camp. Apache is soon reached, along the south bank of the stream. (For area visited, see northeast corner of atlas sheet 83 and southeast corner of sheet 76.) The Indian tribes encountered were the Navajoes, Zunis, Moquis, Jemez, White Mountain Apaches, and those found at Fort Bayard and Old Fort Tulerosa, also the following pueblos: Moquis, with its seven villages; Zuni, including the outposts at Nutria, Pescado, and Ojo Caliente; Acoma, Isleta, Jemez, Tesuque, San Yldefonso, Silla (or Zia), and Laguna. The area under survey has embraced the greater part of that originally inhab- ited by the pueblo or town people and all of that belonging to the present pueblos, to all of whom grants of land have been or are in process of being confirmed. ‘EXPEDITION OF 1873. 69 The count, as stated at the agency of the Navajoes at Old Fort Defi- ance on the then last annuity day, was 8,616, which had, however, before reached as high as 9,700. In annual report of Indian Office for 1886 the enrolled number is given at 17,358. Not more than 4,000 to 4,500 were in the habit of appearing on annuity day. The agency is situated (1873) near the southern end of the reservation, while the several bands live along the banks of the San Juan and its southern tributaries. They appeared to care little or nothing for their agent, and were kept in awe solely by the presence. of troops at Fort Wingate, near southern extremity of reservation limits. They had been moved a number of years before from the Pecos Valley. Many bands have large herds (reaching into the thousands) of horses, cattle, goats, sheep, mules, and donkeys. Manuelito, a fine specimen of an Indian, was their war chief, in fact the only one who had a voice with and a control over the whole tribe, the head chief being old, decrepid, and in his dotage. He had five wives or squaws, and each of the bucks of fine prowess and large wealth in stock had more than one. These dusky virgins possess a market value at maturity, the price depending upon family caste, good looks, chastity entering with considerable weight. The daughter of a prominent sub-chief is generally worth about four horses and twenty sheep, that are divided usually between the father, elder brother, and herself. As a race they are of more than average Indian intelligence, possessing rare qualities of shrewdness and cunning. Their facial dimension approaches the rectangular, and, except in individual cases, the high cheek-bones and irregular noses are lacking. The squaws are better treated than in any tribe yet visited (1873), and, although obliged to do some of the drudgeries of manual labor, still spend considerable time at their weaving and produce a woolen textile fabric for use as garments and for household purposes. This tissue is excelled by none for durability and unrivaled because of its im- permeability. Tradition dates their knowledge of this art (back of any his- torical association, however) to a Welsh or Danish woman, who lived to a good old age among them, and they now worship an old woman as one of their deities. In early days they colored their raw weaving material in nat- ural dyes, black, green, and yellow, but since the Government furnishes them 70 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. colors, they have discarded their own for an inferior substitute. Some of their designs are highly characteristic and show good taste for color and figure. Should one Indian kill another by accident, another life must be the ransom or the payment of a stipulated number of horses or sheep, or a certain sum of money. ‘Their sense of retributive justice is strong. Three or four Navajo pupils were being educated at the agency at a cost of $1,200 per year to the Government. The Navajoes had for a number of years made regular raids on the Mormon stock herds to the north of the Colorado, which has latterly, however, been stopped. They fear the incursion of the pale-face, but above all dread an inroad by the Chinese, that, locust-like, would consume everything in the land. , The ranches were few and far between along the route, and taking into account the extent of the Navajoe and White Mountain Reservation aud the ground claimed by the Zunis, there was but little land left to en- courage the settler to wander in this direction. However, the area visited to the east of a north and south line passing through the highest point of the Sierra Blanca and embracing thousands of square miles cannot be ex- celled by a like area on the continent for grazing and timber, while certain of the glades and valleys below 8,000 feet in elevation are susceptible of tillage, and the dark voleanic soil (of trachytic and basaltic components) is unsurpassed in natural fertility. The points at which floatrock even of the precious minerals had been found were few. Prospectors showed, besides the precious stones, specimens of silver ore, reputed as coming from the Navajoe Reservation, still others from the Zuni Mountains, while a third spot on the banks of Salt River, south and east of Apache, had been prospected successfully and locations made by Mr. Cooley, a guide and interpreter at Apache. Other mines of copper and silver ore had been discovered on the San Francisco branch of the Gila. The only general wagon-route through the area visited personally was the one leading from Wingate to Apache, while now arailroad (the Atlantic and Pacific) from Albuquerque, on the Rio Grande, to the Needles, on the Colorado, has been built and opened (1883), and the Arizona portion of the region visited in 1873 is reached from a station named Holbrook, on the EXPEDITION OF 1873. Cal Little Colorado, from whence stages depart for Apache direct, and for Springerville (Milligan’s Ranch) via Saint John’s, on the Colorado Chiquito. The only lakes reported in the Arizona and New Mexico portions of the area are two small ones (more properly lakelets or ponds), the first lying near head of White Mountain River, and the second found near the head of another branch of the North Fork, both small -reservoirs emptying into the stream in question, and a third (Reservoir Lake) lying near the headwaters of Salt River, and without visible outlet. This lake lies in a shallow basin, its waters resting upon and walled in by lava, slightly eroded. The water is shallow, weeds reaching the surface. At its stage in August it covered approximately 50 acres, with a possible 75 acres at maximum. An old beach, 10 feet above present level, long since abandoned, is ob- served, It appears to be permanent on account of the life it contains, and must have an underground outlet, as its waters are fresh. From the sum- mit of the Sierra Blanca, as one looks eastward at the rising of the sun, and when the adjacent amphitheater is first flooded with its morning light, it sparkles like a jewel, and is well set off by its mountain and mesa surround- ings, by which it is encircled on every side. The sources of the streams making up the headwaters of the forks of White River, the Salt, Bonito Prieto, Blue, San Francisco, Gila, and Little Colorado Rivers, are perpetual springs, rising near the mountain summits from storage reservoirs in the trachyte, dolerite, and basalt of this region, and following the courses that lead to their far-distant ocean level in the Gulf of California, they soon expand into a number of sparkling streams within the lava region which traverse a plateau-like area in which the cones of the Sierra Blanca are centrally situated, the picturesqueness of which is not equaled within our borders, not forgetting even the Willamette Valley of Oregon, although the latter, long and level, affords wider fields for agriculture, while much of the Eastern Arizona and Western New Mexico region, in which the Sierra Blanca lie centrally disposed, is valuable only for grazing and timber, water being in abundance; a country indeed in striking contrast to the compara- tive deserts of the lower Colorado Chiquito, Gila, and mesas westward of the Rio Grande in like latitudes. 72 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. These streams, particularly mentioned and belonging to the portion visited, all finally reach the sea by the mouth of the Colorado of the West, the continental divide lying to the eastward. The portion known as Mogollon Mesa and White Mountain Region consists, geologically, the former of Carboniferous strata (limestone pre- dominating) and volcanic material, in the following order of sequence, as observed by Mr. Gilbert: (1) Trachyte; (2) *Sanidin-dolerite; (3) Basalt. In the Geological Maps, Nos. 1 and 2 are designated as trachyte and rhyolite. This volcanic field is an arm of a great region of igneous rocks, reaching almost continuously from San Francisco Mountains, on the north- west, to Mount Taylor, at the southeast, as centers of flow, and estimated as covering about 25,000 square miles. It lies principally between latitudes 32° 45’ and 34° 20’, and longitudes 107° 30’ to 110° west of Greenwich. Thomas Peak, the summit of the Sierra Blanca, is also an elevated center of disturbance, and the resultant eruption and uplift has left lava beds of about 3,000 feet in thickness lying presumably on the Carboniferous, which is observed to the eastward of Camp Apache, along Main or East Fork of White Mountain Creek for 8 or 9 miles, there passing under the volcanic cap. Mr. Gilbert assumes three distinct lava flows in the order above given, the trachytic being the least recent. The basalt appears in patches, except to the north of the Sierra Blanca, Green’s Peak being a center of an ex- tended basalt area, which also appears along the bed of North Fork to vicinity of Fort Apache, the latter showing Carboniferous. The Little Colorado, near its head, is covered with almost continuous patches of basalt, the Triassic emerging near the present site of Saint John, and continuing along the valley to Sunset Crossing, where a Carboniferous horizon appears. ‘Triassic also obtains in vicinity of Fort Wingate; the Zuni Mountains are Carboniferous, while the Carrizo Valley and Zuni Pla- teau show cretaceous sandstone as predominating. The approximate zones (limited by altitudes) of the class of botanical products in the 1873 region in New Mexico and Arizona have been given by Dr. Loew (see p. 603, Vol. IID), as four, viz: * The term ‘‘sanidin-dolerite” was proposed by Mr. Gilbert for temporary use. See p. 526, Vol. ILI, Geology. * EXPEDITION OF 1873. (3 (1) Zone of cactus, yucca, and agave; altitude 3,000 to 3,500 feet; grass scanty. Where there is water a most luxuriant vegetation springs up. (2) Zone of Obine and Artemisia (greasewood and sagebrush); alti- tude 3,500 to 4,900 feet; grass poor, with few exceptions, on granite and voleanic soils. The cactus species are diminished in numbers. (3) Zone of Juniperus occidentalis (cedar); altitude 4,900 to 6,800 feet; cactus species few. (4) Zone of pine and fir, 6,800 to 10,800 feet (highest points). Thus are presented, between latitudes 33° and 34° north, and at eleva- tions from 3,000 to 11,000 feet, plant life comparable with that of the Sahara Desert, warm, temperate, and subalpine climates. Dr. Loew also pre- sents in Volume III highly interesting results of soil and mineral analyses and of mineral springs, among which may be noted the comparison of the mud of the Rio Grande with that of the Nile, in which it is found that the former is richest in potassa and the latter in phosphoric acid, the deduc- tion being drawn that no other or better fertilizer is required than the layer of finely-pulverized virgin soil that results from irrigation in the middle Rio Grande Valley. Of the collections of fish, many coming from the streams heading in and near the Sierra Blanca, there were sixteen new species. Mr. Henshaw adds to the list of birds, and determines the presence of several well-pronounced Mexican types. Dr. Rothrock adds his chapter and data to the critical and economic botany of this section (see Volume VI). The predominating timber species observed in the White Mountains are the pine (Pinus ponderosa, Pseudotsuga Douglasii), fir and spruce (Abies concolor and Picea Engelmanni), oak (Quercus undulata and Emory), black walnut (Juglans Californica), and juniper (Juniperus Californica). During the seasons of 1873—"74—75 a number of objects of archeological inter- est were obtained in New Mexico and Arizona, to which reference is made in Volume VII, p. 374 (see also Plates XVI, XX VII, and VIII, Volume VII). These articles were but individually collected in an irregular and des- ultory manner, pointing, however, to the localities whence is likely to come, through systematic search, a clearer view of the circumstances of life of the pre-aboriginals and to the regions where the sites of ruins are counted in 74 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. great numbers, a part of which area yet awaits thorough exploration, and within which the surface of the subject of archeology has been as yet but scratched. Twenty-seven hundred geological specimens were collected during the season, also 4,500 fossils and 1,600 minerals, ores, &c., together with those mentioned in the following list: COLLECTIONS. The following summary shows the number of specimens collected dur- ing the season: Mammals, comprising alcoholics, skins, and crania, 67. Birds, comprising alcoholics, skins, crania, sterne, nests, and eggs, 1,450. Fishes, comprising alcoholics and skins, 1,660. Reptiles, alcoholics, 280. insects—Orthoptera (grasshoppers), 105 lots, probably 2,500 to 3,000; Coleoptera (beetles), 60 lots, probably 2,000 to 3,000; Lepidoptera (butterflies), including Zygeni- de and Bombycide, 428; Hymenoptera (wasps and bees), 90 lots, probably 4,500; Diptera (flies), 17 lots, probably 170; Hemiptera (bugs), 67 lots, probably 1,500; Neu- roptera (dragon-flies), 41 lots, probably 200; Formica (ants), 30 lots, probably 2,000; Arachnid (spiders), 54 lots, probably 600. Mollusea (shells), 22 lots, probably 500. Worms, leeches, and crustacea, 52 lots, probably 600. Also 19 lots ethnological specimens. These have since been transferred to the National Museum. Plate VIII.—This view, sketched by Mr. Gilbert Thompson in 1873, from Echo Peak, opposite the mouth of the Paria, marks substantially the commencement of the main or lower Grand Canon of the Colorado River, or the one ascended to the mouth of Diamond Creek by the boat party of 1871. An edge of the Paria Plateau is shown at the right, and the eastern escarpment of the Buckskin Plateau appears at a distance in the center. The cafon, passing centrally through the view, here presents the ap- pearance of having been forced asunder as if by the upward pressure of a widely extended and rapidly applied subterranean force, whereas observation goes far to prove that the volume between its mesa-like walls has been removed in greater part, if not all, by the slow process of water erosion, assisted somewhat by the denuding effects of the atmosphere. So far as known, the caion nowhere presents so even and unbroken a surface at the summit of its first walls, that are usually quartzite resting on granite, the beds that constitute here the exterior and outlying plateau approaching much nearer the bed of the stream from its entrance into the deeper cation, commenc- ing at the Buckskin Plateau, only to terminate at the Colorado crossing of 1871 (see Atlas sheet 66), a distance of approximately 250 miles. c * 7 LIBRARY oi) OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS : 7 ft EXPEDITION OF 1873, (5) The variegated and vivid colors of the mesa walls of the above plateau as seen from Echo Peak (from which point a pistol-shot gives seven distinct reverberations) present a beautiful appearance. Plate [X.—This sketch, in colors, is irom a photograph by O’Sullivan, taken at one of the Navajoe wick-e-ups, near Old Fort Defiance, and is a scene of Indian every- day life. The head and lord of the family looks on with phlegmatic equanimity at the patient industry of the squaw and indulges in day dreams, undoubtedly of victories of war or excitement of the chase, performed by him or his ancestors. They gather a scant harvest of corn and grain, but depend now for the greater part upon Government rations. The slow process of weaving the famous Navajoe blankets may thus be described: Two horizontal poles, at a little greater distance apart than the length of the blanket, are fastened to two substantial uprights, while a third horizontal pole (movable) re- ceives the stretched warp threads at a convenient distance from the ground; the woof threads are inserted, one by one, by hand, each being followed up by a narrow, thin- edged board, hammered down by a cleat so skillfully handled as to scarcely break a thread. The time for completing a full-sized blanket varies from two and a half to three and a half months, according to fineness and design. Aboriginal, Government, and imported yarns are used. ‘These blankets, often of excellent design, are unique as regards warmth, durability, and impermeability. Plate X.—The walls, shown in the picture, which is a reproduction from a photo- graph by the late T. H. O’Sullivan, in 1873, at Camp Beauty, in the Caton de Chelle, were estimated by him to be 1,200 feet in height. Mr. Victor Mindeleff, of the Geolog- ical Survey, gives them at 1,000 in 1883. The abrupt descent into this cafion is reached from the south by a trail from Old Fort Defiance (35 miles distant), traversing a dry, sandy desert plateau. The main of the shafts of rock at the right (all solid sandstone, of obelisk shape) is stated to be 742 feet high. These stand in an isolated group near the center of the canon. The same columuar form is represented elsewhere in the valley of the Chelle (which in places is 3 miles wide) by the “ Explorer’s Column,” a pillar in altitude equal to the above of regular, shaft-like form. At this point five lateral cations converge from as many directions toward the main gorge, giving the locality the appearance of a star of six points. The walls are substantially vertical near the mouth of the canon ; the bottom is sandy and flat. The stream which rises near the head sinks beneath the sandy floor before reach- ing this point. The débris from the less vertical walls accumulates nearer the source, while the cation gorges, towards its head, entirely disappear. The ruins of the Cafion de Chelle were first brought to notice through Lieutenant Simpson’s reconnaissance of 1849. Some are said to be 400 feet above the river bed, and without evidence as to how they were reached. The Navajoes have no knowledge of their origin, or a tradition, even, and apparently they have been long in ruins. One of the ruins of the Cation de Chelle (represented in Plate XX, Volume VII, Archeology) is shown to be 50 feet above the cafion bed, and was named ‘ Casa Blanca,” or “ White House.” 76 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. Beneath it are ruivs of other stone structures, the former appearing to have been a fortress or place of refuge in time of danger. The walls are made of soft stone, split but not dressed, held together with mud mortar and covered on the outside with a whitewash or plaster of unknown composition. The wall-rocks, of a somber red sandstone, blending into a rich brown, approaching to black in places, are slightly furrowed nearly horizontally by the storms driving through the canon, and vertically by the dripping from above. These ruins, in the main, appear to have been located conveniently to the tillable areas, while some of the largest are constructed upon the bed and at the sides of the canon, with others above them. These latter are true cliff-dwellings, the niches or alcoves in which they have been built receding scarcely more than 10 feet, and are in no sense caves. The ap- proximate length of the cation is 30 miles. Plate XI.—This view (in colors) is introduced to illustrate, although but rudely, the beauty of the park-like valleys found almost indiscriminately along the flanks of the Sierra Blanca Range of Eastern Arizona. It is a reproduction from the only typical scene photographed by the late Mr. T. H. O’Sullivan. No picture can equal the original and no pen nor language describe the rugged grandeur of the broken sur- rounding mesa and mountain or the gentle valley-like glade, finely grassed and inter- spersed with pine groves. The soil of the valley portion responds to the husbandman at this altitude (less than 7,000 feet), while the surrounding rolling hills, as well as the mesa tops and the foot-hills, where the timber is not too dense, are covered with the richest growth of the nutritious grama and bunch grasses, making it one of the most desirable of all stock ranches. The coloring is by the hand of Mr. H. J. Morgan, following sketches and notes taken in the field. Plate XII (Alpine Lakes, Cerro Blanco Mountains).—East of the Continental Divide, at the head of the Arkansas, which from this point follows the erest of the Saguache arm of the Sierra Madre and as far south, approximately, as Santa Fe, N. Mex., lying between the valleys of the Rio Grande and the Arkansas, and in which head the Purgatory, Cimarron, Canadian, Moro, and Pecos Rivers, as well as many minor streams of the Rio Grande and Arkansas basins, is found a succession of mountain ridges fronting the great plains in bold relief along a line not far differing from the meridian of Pike’s Peak. The Sangre de Cristo Range, although a little to the westward, mark, with the Wet Mountain Range, immediately to the east, the northern limit of the Veta Mountains and Cerro Blanco group (sometimes called Sierra Blanca), apparently gathering the two above ranges into one, the Culebra, with the prominent Spanish Peaks, as eastern sentinels, which latter, a narrow ridge, in turn widens out until farther to the southward appear the Cimarron, Taos, Mora, Las Vegas, and Santa Fe ranges (see Atlas, sheets 61 B, 61 D, 62 A, 62 C, 69 B, 69 D, 70 A, and 70 C). The subject of the accompanying illustration, embracing the summit of the Cerro Blanco, occupies a salient in the great San Luis plain or valley north and west from Fort Garland and quite separated from the main ridge, forming the nucleus of a special group, although in continuation of the general trend of the Sangre de Cristo. The peak lies in latitude 37° 34/ 43”.5 north, and longitude 105° 28/ 53.3 west of Greenwich, and at an altitude of 14,270 feet above sea, the mountain group forming the divide between the drainage basins of the Upper Rio Grande and Huerfano, a small tributary of the Arkansas. ms LibnAj;, OF THI UNTY, NSITY OF ALLInols EXPEDITION OF 1873. ell Four well-known passes lead from the valley of the Arkansas to the San Luis, in vicinity of this mountain mass; to the north the Mosea (9,787 feet), to the east the Sangre de Cristo (9,578 feet), and leading into it the Veta (9,392 feet), and a little more to the southward, but joining Sangre de Cristo Creek on the west, is Indian Creek Pass (9,720 feet). Since occupying this peak and region the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad have utilized the Veta Pass in its branch leading to the Rio Grande and the southern part of the San Juan region. The ascent of this peak can only be accomplished from tke main western branch of Placer Creek, that takes its rise near the eastern summit, which along a narrow northern spur is exceedingly precipitous until a small bench is reached, approximating 11,000 feet, at the immediate toot of the bare granite mass cut ly many traehytic dikes of considerable size, of which the peak proper is composed. Here little Alpine lakes (like that shown in the view) act as reservoirs for the perpetually melting snow of the summit ravines. The timber line ceases where the lakes commence. Ten lakes were counted rising in terraces. The most elevated are kept full and cool throughout the summer from the constant melting of the perennial snows along their edges, from where the overflow feeds those at the lower levels, until the lowest empties into the drainage of Placer Creek. So far as known, it had never been ascended by white man prior to August 14, 1874, when Gilbert Thompson and Frank De Y. Carpenter, topographers of the expedition, occu- pied it, as a main triangulation station, remaining over night on the summit. The top is but afew yards in extent and occupied almost entirely by a cireular depression, possibly used by Indians as shelter for their sentinels, who probably occupied this at once commanding and strategic point as a watch-tower from whence to signal the ap- proach of an invading force, especially from any direction in the broad expanse of the San Luis Valley. The peak lying to the left of the center of the sketch is the one to which reference has been made. The crayon lithograph plate was produced from a photograph by O’Sullivan, as an original. Geologically (as determined by Prof. J. J. Stevenson and Mr. F. M. Endlich) this peak is a naked mass of eruptive granite (grayish in color, resembling syenite, and uniform in texture), which apparently terminates one of the anticlinals of the Sangre de Cristo Range. The granite is flanked at the southwest by trachytic beds. EXPEDITION OF 1874. The expedition of 1874 covered an aggregate area of 23,281 square miles, distributed as follows: Arizona, 275; Colorado, 3,600; New Mexico, 19,040; and Utah, 866 square miles, and found in the basins of the Rio Grande, Gunnison, Arkansas, Chama, Cimarron, Mora, and Canadian rivers. The main parties were organized at and operated out from Pueblo. Norr.—The general route followed by the officer in charge was from Pueblo to Fort Garland, via Sangre de Cristo Pass, thence to Conejos, thence via Prospect Peak, heads of Conejos and east fork of San Juan to Pagosa Springs, thence to Tierra Ama- rilla and return, thence via head of San Juan and south fork of Rio Grande to Del Norte, thence by stage to railroad at Cation City, Colo. 78 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The topographic results of this season are to be found in Atlas Sheets 61 C, 61D, 62C, 70 A, 70C, 69 B, 69 D, 69 and 68. The routes of early explorers traversing a part of the area are: (1) Pike, 1807 (to the Rio Grande); (2) Frémont, 1844; (3) Simpson, to Canon de Chelle, 1849; (4) Gunnison, and (5) Whipple, P. R. R. §., in 1853, and (6) Macomb, 1859. The subdivision of the public land surveys had been carried on only to a limited extent, except in vicinity of Pueblo, Trinidad, Fort Union, Las Vegas, and Santa Fe; nor, indeed, except in the San Juan regions, have later calls (1883) demanded the sectionizing of these lands to any consid- erable extent. ‘ PARTIAL ITINERARY, 1874. From camp on Smith’s Island, near Fort Garland, to Tierra Amarilla, via heads of Conejos Creek, San Juan River, and Pagosa Springs. August 17.—Broke camp and moved westward a distance across San Luis Valley of 16.8 miles, and camped upon the Trinchera, a tributary of the Rio Grande, about 4 mniles from the mother stream. The road descends gently for the entire distance, is sandy in places, and finally enters the bottom of the creek at a bend shortly below the junction of the Ute and Sangre de Cristo creeks with the Trinchera. In the horizon are the broken ridges composing the Sangre de Cristo Pass, due east of the Cerro Blanco peaks, and farther to the north the Sangre de Cristo Range; the Saguache (southern ridge of the Sierra Madre) and the mountains at the head of the San Juan to the northwest, and their southern spurs immediately to the west of camp, while in the southern horizon volcanic masses join these foot-hills and several flat- topped mesas on either side of the Rio Grande. August 18.—A camp near the little town of Conejos is reached at a distance of about 20 miles over a comparatively level road, the river admitting of being forded at this season. Observed nothing worthy of note,except the so-called Hot Springs at Norman’s Ranch, near Conejos Creek. The main spring flows 8,000 gallons per minute, varying in temperature from 53° to 65° F, Several smaller ones appear in the vicinity. These springs have long been used by the Mexicans for rheumatic affections. This group of springs occurs 20 miles east of where the foot-hills of the San Juan Mount- ains reach the plains. Here and there appear island growths of the black species of grama, while the artemisia is persistent. The strip of land north of the road from the ford to Conejos and east of the foot-hills and northward to Del Norte could all be brought toa high state of cultivation to the extent of the volume of water of the Rio Grande and the mountain creeks flowing to the eastward.* * NoTE.—Guadaloupe, the oldest plaza, was located November 24, 1854, the others more recently. Most of the inhabitants came from New Mexico. The church in Conejos was erected in 1858. Over 1,000 persons attend services each Sunday, but more than 2,000 pay tithing. A college and convent are in process of erection. Three priests and five monks constitute the head of the church in Conejos County. EXPEDITION OF 1874. 19 August 24.—Lieutenant Whipple with the main party follows up Conejos Creek, with instructions to camp at a point convenient for a party under my direction en- gaged in a détour to the north and ascent of Prospect Peak. The détour route lay for a mile along the creek, with banks of about the same level as the plain which adjoins the low voleanic foot-hills that, bordering the Conejos and San Antonio Creeks, are of basalt in place on the Mesa and as finely comminuted drift at the lower levels. A sparse growth of scrub cedar, stunted pine, and spruce form patches on Prospect Peak, from which the view toward head of Conejos Creek was extremely beautiful, bearing resemblance to portious of the more broken ravines and mesas of the White Mountain regions pierced the year previous. A little creek reaching the Conejos from the north is visible here and there, half valley, half glade (timbered along its flanks with pines of considerable size, inter- spersed with quaking aspen), until cut across by one of the southern forks of the Alamosa. The voleanic covering of the mesas, of the entire western horizon of Pros- pect Peak (densely wooded in places), much resemble on a small seale the basaltic lava field in the vicinity of the Sierra Blanca of Arizona. One Mr. Wallace, a deputy mineral surveyor, reports a peg found and pulled up by him in the Sangre de Cristo Pass, about 3 miles below Stearn’s Ranch, marked “Lt. Pike, 1807,” which would indicate that this officer was marking points of his route, to be recognized by others in case of his loss or capture, the latter taking place at the junction of San Antonio creeks (where it is stated that the ruins of a block- house, built for defense of his party, still stands), and also that he passed from the basin of the Arkansas to that of the Rio Grande de Norte, by either the Sangre de Cristo or the Veta Pass. Color (gold) results from rude pan-washing in the bed of Conejos Creek. August 26.—Three divisions are made, one going to Prospect Peak to augment ob- servations, a second following the main valley of the Conejos, and a third (with the writer) to reach a rendezvous at a point named Red Bluff, via head of Prospect Creek. On account of want of trail and serious physical obstacles the party did not ren- dezvous until the 28th at Beaver Dam Camp higher up the Conejos and nearer junction of its two main forks. Basaltic lava everywhere predominates, making box or impass- able canons along the main stream and certain tributaries. Deer and foxes prevalent as game, and fine mountain trout in the stream. Yellow pine, spruce, and aspen are abundant. on every side, with rich mountain bunch grass in the ravines as well as upon the mesa slopes. August 30.—No rocks underlying the basalt of this portion of Conejos Creek are noted, the specimens found in cafions to the westward and on Conejos Peak being all volcanic. ; _ The Chama heads to the west of Beaver Dam Camp. Shortly after leaving this camp the Conejos turns to the westward, when highly metamorphosed granitic rocks appear. The character of the creek bottom changes, widening into a little park, spruce timber appearing on surrounding mesa-like hills except when the rock is ex- posed. Fox, martin, beaver, grouse, and duck were seen and captured in this locality. Soon the Conejos turns to the south and west, and its bed is left to cross a little divide which presumably would lead us on to the stream near its head (a camp being made 80 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. in a wilderness of timber) near the divide and toward a stream the banks of which being reached was found to flow to the north and east. This proved to be the South Fork of the Alamosa. August 31.—Visited mines near the South Fork of Alamosa Creek, believed to lie in the southern extension of Summit District. The formation is here a metamorphic granite, while the lodes prospected were noted in connection with quartzite, said to contain free gold, and affording high assays. September 1.—Follow the Alamosa without trail to near its source, which is found to be from glacial snow-banks near Summit Peak. September 2.—Summit Peak was climbed, its elevation proving by computation to be 13,393 feet above sea. Around the cluster of peaks in its vicinity heads the Alamosa, Conejos, and Blanea creeks, and the Chama River, and east fork of the San Juan and South Fork of Rio Grande. This mountain peak appears to be one mass of highly metamorphosed syenitice grapite. While the geology of the foot-hills west of the San Luis Valley has proven simple, that of the uplifts, in which nestle the sources above named, is quite complex, and yet awaits full study. The Conejos is entirely late volcanic to the point of its turning westward; then appears granite but little altered, then granite on the South Fork of the Alamosa highly metamorphosed, interspersed with dikes of quartzite and beds of conglomerate, along the route followed, while on the east fork of the San Juan older lavas much contorted are the surface formation. Here one of the worst descents into the canon of the East Fork of the San Juan ever made by our expedition pack-trains was undertaken, and camp made in a little nook overlooking an almost perpendicular canon wall, fully 1,000 feet in height. September 3.—A camp is finally made in a glade, lower down the stream, that flows due westward, which had to be forded several times at great risk at selected points. Here the parties separate, the one under my charge pushing ahead to reach finally a welcome trail, which proves to be the one leading from the Upper Kio Grande, at the mouth of its south fork, to Pagosa Springs, on the main San Juan, where a rendezvous camp was established, and from which point exploring and surveying parties were dispatched in all directions. Pagosa to Tierra Amarilla and return. This trip was made by the westerly route, crossing the mesa to the west of the Chama River at Horse Lake, returning by the route following toward head of Chama, then crossing the heads of Navajo and Blanea creeks, reaching the eastern banks of the San Juan. Portions of this route had belonged to the old trail from Santa Fe to the North- west, and was followed by the Escalante exploring party in 1776. This country is a succession of mesas, bordering on the Chama, Chaco, and San Juan Rivers, well de- seribed in the reports of Professor Cope. The country is well grassed and timbered, although scantily supplied with water, except along the several creeks. The Blanca, nearly dry, was the first stream crossed, then the Little, and a little farther on the main Navajo, reaching the Chama, opposite the Mexican settlement of Los Brazos, a few miles south of which was found the site of Old Fort Lowell. EXPEDITION OF 1874. 81 The name Tierra Amarilla (yellow earth) is descriptive of tke alluvial soil washed from the persistent sandstone mesas found on either hand. The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad now has a junction at a station called An tonito, a short distance south and east of our camp at Conejos, from whence one track runs southward along the Rio Grande; a second, or the western branch, reaching the Chama by head of Los Pinos Creek, thence by one of the heads of Navajo Creek to the San Juan at its mouth, thence along the San Juan to mouth of the Piedra, thence partially across a mesa westward io Los Pinos Creek, thence to Durango, its terminus, in the valley of the Animas, from which a northern branch has been run to the mining town of Silverton. Thus the southern half of the intricate and comparatively inac- cessible San Juan region is tapped and given a communication with the outer world; while the northern part is fed with a branch of this same railroad enterprise entering the valley of the Gunnison from the Arkansas via Marshall’s Pass, following the former river to near its junction with the Grand, thence substantially on the old Gunnison wagon-road to Salt Lake City. The San Juan region, having Ouray as a center, feeds into this road at Montrose, approximately 45 miles from Ouray, while a branch of same road through the Poncho Pass reaches the town of Gunnison via the head of San Luis Valley and ridges to the westward, the road being tapped from Lake City at Sapenero Station, 38 miles distant. The Alamosa branch has been extended as far as Del Norte and branches from Gunnison and Poncho Pass pierce into the adjacent mining districts, forming further arms of this vigorous and usetul narrow-guage system. The route from Pagosa Springs to the Rio Grande at the mouth of its south fork lay along the banks of the San Juan to its main head, thence by a tortuous, almost blind trail at more than 1,000 feet altitude to the heads of the south fork of the Rio Grande, thence to its valley reaching a wagon-road at a saw-mill a few miles before attaining its junction with the main stream (altitude 8,016 feet). A most beautiful little mountain valley is found on main fork of the San Juan two or three miles above junction of east fork, thence the trail ascends the high, bare, pre- cipitous mountain ridges upon which it was necessary fo camp when darkness came, at an approximate elevation of 10,500 feet amid snow, sleet, hail, rain, thunder and lightning, in the face of almost a hurricane of wind; these combined demonstrations of nature, playing each its separate tune, all discordant, which was not enhanced in melody by the cracking, crashing, and crunching of the tall gaunt pines which as vie- tims lay along the lightning’s course. Snow covered the ground 4 inches in the morning. So far as known there has never before been recorded within one horizon at one time in different parts of the heavens, rain clouds, the moon visible in a clear sky, with thunder and lightning, hail, and snow, all recurrent within the hour, The sources of the Rio Grande are found in the heart of the so-called San Juan region at an elevation exceeding 12,000 feet, in latitude approxi- mately 37° 46’ north and longitude 107° 33’ west of Greenwich, flowing eastward until it reaches the San Luis Valley or plain, and thence runs nearly due south until El Paso (a point on the Mexican border) is reached, from whence it makes easting to its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. 6 WH——VOL I 82 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. During its fall of more than 12,000 feet a number of the series of geo- logical formations have been cut. Archean (granites), Carboniferous, and Triassic (with beds of basalt and other eruptive rocks on either hand) are noted before reaching the San Luis Valley; then various forms of alluvium appear until the latitude of Conejos is reached, when the river cuts its way through extensive beds of basalt and trachyte (the former predominating), which continue to the approximate latitude of 86° 20’. Here beds of the Tertiary (Loup Fork and other marls) and afterwards Triassic are found, reaching further south than Santa Fe, beyond which point no geological data has been systematized through this office. The material held in solution and suspension, more especially from the limestones, trachytes, and basalts above mentioned, as well as those cut by the mountain affluents on both sides, conjoin to produce a sediment which when precipitated upon the lower bottom lands of the Rio Grande leaves there a rich residue which is an excellent fertilizer. The annual rainfall along the banks of the river varies from an average of 14.02 inches (Signal Service observation of nine years) to an approximate maximum at the source of 60 inches. Although the larger portion of the area of 1874, on account of its physical irregularities, broken and mountain- ous character and dearth of rainfall (usually in the valfey not exceeding 12 to 14 inches) and limited opportunities for irrigation is unproductive, still narrow strips along streams at levels not exceeding 7,000 feet can in nearly every case be cultivated by ordinary ditch irrigation, while the greater part of the grazing lands are found between 7,000 and 10,000 feet, with timber fringes at from 7,000 to 8,000 feet, at which point the forests found to exist set in, the latter reaching a limit at approximately 11,000 feet, above which bare and precipitous rock or débris constitute the mountain escarpment. The character of the rock as to its susceptibility to surface or atmos- pheric denudation has a marked influence in determining the altitude limit of vegetation in a given latitude, as well as the position of the point itself with regard to humid-laden ocean currents, and therefore all observations so far made on this point fail to determine the actual limit that might be reached at any given latitude. EXPEDITION OF 1874. 83 The valley of the Arkansas (approximately 24 miles wide) is well covered with fine vegetation wherever water can be brought upon it. The valleys at.the east flanks of Greenhorn Range (at elevation of 5,000 to 6,000 feet) are well grassed, but frosts occur throughout the year, except, perhaps, from June 1 to September 15. The San Luis Valley is approximately 140 miles in length, and from 50 to 60 in width. A considerable amount of its territory could be brought under cultivation by husbanding the waters of the Rio Grande and all minor streams reaching it from every hand. The valleys of the Culebra, Cos- tilla, Taos, Alamosa, and other creeks are all fertile and partially utilized, while the Rio Grande is dotted with settlements from where it emerges “from the mountains at Del Norte to the Mexican border even, and in an increasing degree from thence to the Gulf. The summits of the San Juan, De! Norte, Banded, and Chama mount- ains form a part of the great continental divide. The southern portion of the San Juan area toward the Chaco and lower San Juan borders on a waterless region, given up to the last stage of a secular dessication that relentlessly claims it as a part of the desert land. Legendary information exists among the Mexicans of running streams and springs that existed one hundred and fifty years ago that have now disappeared, while positive assertions are made of the drying-up of minor streams within the past fifteen to twenty years. | The famous Pagosa Springs and their surroundings, the scene of a ren- dezvous, were found in a virgin state, a sole squatter having improvised a log cabin, where afterward Fort Lewis was temporarily located, but, like many another of the pioneer military camps, moved farther into the wil- derness. The formation immediately around the springs is sandstone of the Lower Cretaceous, overlaid by a dark shale, exposed under which in places is a dark argillaceous, fossiliferous limestone. These springs are at the end of a beautiful park, extending northward along the San Juan for miles. That it was a place of resort since ancient times by aboriginals is attested by deeply worn trails converging from all directions. 84 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. Hills rise about them several hundred feet, covered with dense pine, the San Juan Range appearing in the distance. The various springs now active cover an area of fully 30 acres, the river having cut through an old bed of incrustations fully 12 feet thick. They are surrounded by a plain of limited extent richly covered with moun- tain bunch-grass. The large spring is about 30 by 40 feet, the water coming within 3 feet of the surface. Sounding was of no avail on account of the craggy character of the incrusted walls. No bottom was found at from 50 to 60 feet. The main or Mammoth Spring is intermittent, with subter- ranean outlet to the river, as well as another, but partly covered, exceeding a foot in width and 4 feet deep. The rocks near the underground orifices are everywhere covered with sulphur, while at the mouth of the main outlet they are incrusted with a white porcelain-like substance with a calcareous base. Professor Stevenson thinks that the deep source is from the metamorphic rocks, and that sulphureted hydrogen is generated in the limestones of the ‘Triassic and the Carboniferous. An elegant natural bath had been formed (1874) by walling out the bulk of the San Juan and improvising a reservoir of proper depth, in which the hot and cold waters could permanently mingle, there resulting a scale of temperatures from about 70° to 140° Fahrenheit, according to position as regards mouth of main stream from the Mammoth Spring. These springs are destined some day to be the site of a famous water- ing place. The principal constituent is sulphate of sodium. (See p. 627, Volume IIL.) Temperatures 140°, 141° and 142° Fahrenheit were observed near the edge of the large spring; the temperature of the interior, however, could not be accurately ascertained for want of self-registering thermometers. Besides Pagosa, the thermal and mineral springs at Manitou, Las Vegas, Jemez, and Abiquiu were visited, description and analysis of which appear in Volume III. Professor Cope discovered large fossiliferous beds of extinct vertebrates, of which not less than 29 have been determined to be new, as shown in Part Il of Volume IV. EXPEDITION OF 1874. 85 The nomadic Indians encountered by the main body of the expedi- tion were the Uncompahgre Utes, a branch of the great Ute family hav- ing Ouray (since dead) as their chief (also noted in 1873), with an agency near the town just being organized (1874) of the same name, also the Muache, Capote, and Weenemuche, or Southern Utes, and Jicarilla Apaches at Tierra Amarilla. The former Indians, since made more generally known on ac- count of the White River massacre, in which a distant band of the same tribe took a part, have been massed further west and north, and their lower reservation thrown open to settlement under certain conditions. This ap- pears likely to be the fate of all the reservations that were laid out origi- nally as to size, with less regard to the want of the tribes than were many of the earlier grants of the Spaniards in our present territory of Arizona and New Mexico. The following pueblos were visited by members of the expedition: Taos, San Juan, Nambe, San Felipe, Santa Ana, Sandia, Cochiti, Santa Clara, and Santo Domingo. (See Annual Report 1875, Volume VII, and special chapter on Indians.) The natural resources of the country traversed are comparatively good. In the San Luis and San Juan valleys and the numerous canons leading to them, and also upon the mesa land adjacent, grass is abundant, and water usually accessible and in many places plentiful for grazing purposes. Con- siderable portions of the plains along the streams can be readily irrigated, and, where used for farming, good crops are raised. The mountains vield abundance of timber, and in the side valleys leading into the San Luis Val- ley white pine of large growth forms extensive parks which will prove of ereat value to the future settler, if sufficiently protected. Large herds of cattle and flocks of sheep were found grazing in several localities, and several Mexican towns and ranches, besides those strictly in the mining re- gions, were encountered along the principal streams as far west as the Chama Basin. Although the winters are long, the climate is mild, and grazing con- tinues during the snowy season below the mountains. In the San Luis Valley timothy grass and clover have been introduced, and produce well where irrigated, and in some instances were found accompanied by the im- 86 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, proved agricultural machinery prevalent in the East. But for the restrictions of Mexican grants of land, some of which are of disputed validity, the southern and southwestern portions of Colorado and northern portions of New Mexico would speedily entice a considerable population of farmers and stock-raisers. The region embraced is eminently a pastoral and timber country. Op- portunity for agriculture is found only at specified points and over restricted areas. However the popular theory of the sterility of many a western mount- ain section has been exploded by actual examination, and the average arable lands below which the entire area west of the one hundredth meridian would not fall (the parties of this expedition having operated in portions the aridity of which is a maximum) is to some extent understood by areference to the land classification tables in a later chapter. Forests of yellow pine await the call for lumber and for mining timbers, railroad ties, &c., while spruce and fir, adjuncts to the forest, will help to swell the product. The climate at elevations not exceeding 7,000 feet is equable during spring, summer, and autumn, with heavy winter snows and well marked seasons for summer and winter, the spring and fall being variable. Those of the San Luis Valley and of the Upper San Juan and Chama are regarded as some of the best plateau mountain climates in the entire Southwest. Stock raising had entered but little (1874) into these regions, that have since, however, been appropriated, and the San Juan Valley begins to bring a reward to the hardy settlers (other than miners) who have cast their lot in these far distant regions. This year’s expedition but skirted the extensive San Juan mineral area, the knowledge of which is becoming greater each year and which must remain for a long period an important mining center. The principal streams within the area, the San Juan, Rio Grande, and Chama (west of the San Luis Valley), all are blessed with numerous tribu- taries, especially the first; many of them were meandered and made known for the first time, adding thus largely to the critical data necessary to the complete understanding in detail of the topography of this intricate region. Springs and streams in abundance are found near the heads of the main streams. All the physical conditions of the vicinity of the numerous heads Libri) OF THE a UNIVERSITY OFTLLiNUIS: ( + it 4 7 a - , Ty ‘ =r - _ 2a , fs TP i Year (ld Matterhorn (one of the crags in Tuolumne divide at head of Twin Lake Canon). ..! 8,326 | 12,260) U.B....| T. Conness Peaky 22 ANSI! eemcecases)|emeircssaan me via Cook's and Folsom Bridge ..-..-------------------) -+--+- +22 er errr reese CEC) ll) eee Sersacisen (cosees cee via South Road and El Capitan Bridge. -...-- 4.70 |------sccee-|-----neccnne Cascade Falls, Coulterville Road: | via Meadow Avenue and Yosemite Bridge. ..-...-..----------+-------++-+-+-+- 8.00 | via Cook's and Folsom Bridge ..---...----------- ----- ------ --- sete eee e eee e ee 7. via South Road and El Capitan Bridge. ..--...---.-------------+++++2-ee+ee- ++ Ms Cathedral Spires Bridge. northeast Cathedral Spires, on South Road....-----..--- 2. Chalybeate Spring, Mirror Lake Road. ...---..----++--++-++++++ 222222222222 rte 2. Columbia Rock, Eagle Peak Trail ......---.-.----------+----- ++ erst steers 1 Cook’s Hotel. ---- : 0. Clouds’ Rest, summit via old trail to Register Rock ll Eagle Meadow, Eagle Peak Trail ..- El Capitan Bridge (opposite to) via South Road Folsom Bridge Forks Coulterville and Big Oak Flat Roads, north of El Capitan Bridge: via Cook’s and Folsom Bridge ....-- 5. Eagle Peak (summit) .......-:-.--.-------++22- 022-2 ee eee cence reece ects scene 6. 3 1 via Meadow Avenue and Yosemite Bridge--.-....----- SURSRO NSDSED ES cEEEESSSbOS via South Road and El Capitan Bridge Glacier Point, by trail Harris’ Hopkins’ Meadow, Clouds’-Rest Trail via old trail to Snow’s Indian Camp, west of Folsom Bridge : or hw ww via Leidig’s EY eee en sencood jsacaganctoo Vise Mend OWRAV OUGtwcrcices cece oases s caine sinalecinacccaviemaarascscelen==<- TAS4 | an. = coeine as|'-==amwcecce Tndiani@aronv brid essen eeseeaatss- sac lecaaesnancaasonaeenicsce~—n~=~en=sia=' (HIE beanernacbad cocancodesos eid panhotelsearecn ces sets cer sacs ae cea e caena an) toseecswaensee~\-nerinnwesmraes TE (W/E os Seaccas:|| calvse eoood Tegel Wb oak byptnal lec ee ase ese ane see ee ee acoamaee) «oseeeee=-s=oec=~- 38. 20 9, 170 13, 104 Lyell Camp, head of Tuolumne Meadows on Lyell Creek .----..-. ---------++----- 32. 56 5, 084 9, 018 136 U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. TABLE OF DISTANCES. Altitudes. : Distance | pet 2 Names of points. from ; Barnard’s. | Above val- | Above sea- ley. | level. From Barnard’s to— Miles. | Feet. Feet. Mhirror Lake: Via Meadow Awenue:.-..<-cccessensccccennerisaccce nance cericsdeamsnaceeceeec 2. 86 162 4, 096 via Tisseyak Avenue ..........- SR BR ARAB An COP OERMEn Saab Ae oeer acc CE eesencese | asopCoeSees New “Inspiration Point,’ Madera Road 7.24 | 1, 440 5, 365 Nevada Falls (top) via old trail to Snow’s..-...-. 5 SoS SECO OND BHIGSBU DASH ae Sc SioCoa4 5.45 1, 987 5, 921 Pohono Bridge: via Meadow Avenue and North Road.......-.-0--.:2---22c0scsecceseneesnsee== vias Folsom) Bridie..:.s-s2<<2.c-5: via South Road and Bridal Veil Falls.....-........0.-2.----... River View via Folsom Bridge and North Road ae ne Register Rock (in Canon of Merced, on old trail to Snow’s).....-.--.-------++--+-- Kocky Point (at foot of ‘* Three Brothers,” on North Road).....----.---------+---+ Sentinel Wome Sima: osc e nos ee elena alee cea ee am ore = ete eee rie Snow’s Casa Nevada Inn, via old trail ..... 2.222. .22200c00s ce eenn ee ceeeneseecenenes South Dome, top, via old trail to Snow’s .......2---22--2-200-20---cceacesencceess-- 10. Tenaiya Bridge (over Tenaiya Creek, south of Washington Tower)......---.------ Tissoyak Bridge (over Merced River, south end Tisseyak Avenue)......------.--- Mulla widk BU e@. voce cecc ee ccascescecinclsmnce cis 2 swag eas «aas cate cen aeeanae- TOT POM tae aasne sacri s sawn cease eae e nse anes elses eee = oe eee ees Valley View (or Transport) Point -. Vernal Fail, foot of, via old trail to Register Rock ep we NM py Wos emite, Brid GOs <1 cce.se xen een ee ea aee a snacten ness ease teeeoca = 0.48 | Falls (top of upper, at Flagstaff) 4. Falls (foot of upper) ---..-------- 2. Falls (footof lower) by road 22... coc... ccs ton ee seuesawsecv eas aes soesecese=n= == 0. ROUND TRIPS. From Barnard's— Miles. To Mirror Lake via Meadow Avenue and return via Tisseyak Avenue. ............-2-eee 2s cee e ees cen e ee cee ee eee 6. 53 Through Tisseyak Avenue and return, omitting Mirror Lake...-...-...--..--..---+-++---++--02 22-2 22+ + 22-2 eee ee 5.11 To Pohono Bridge via Meadow Avenue and North Road, and return via South Road.........-...--.------------ 10, 57 Grand circuit of the Valley via Meadow, Tisseyak, and Pohono Avenues....... ---------- 15, 28 The same, including Mirror Lake and Cascado Falls........--..---- +21 222+ cece ee eee eee eee e erence ene cer eeeeee 22. 48 The study of the Laramie in the Trinidad coal fields has led to a very important contribution of much economic interest by Professor Stevenson, showing the continuity of the Laramie coal beds, proving to this extent their general resemblance to the coal beds of the Carboniferous strata or age. COLLECTIONS. The only natural history collections of the year were made by Profes- sor Stevenson in the mountain region east of the Rio Grande and between the latitudes of Fort Garland and Santa Fe, and consisted of a number of invertebrate fossils and fossil plants and specimens from 26 distinct coal SUMMARY OF RESULTS. 137 beds. The topographic results of the season are found on published sheets Nos. 52 D, 56 Band D, 61 Band D, and 62 A and C, and also on the original platting sheet of the Great Salt Lake and vicinity. FINAL SUMMARY. Although this work was projected simply as a first survey during the initial stages of settlement of the region penetrated, looking to a resultant topographic map, to be speedily available for military administration and operations as its primal object, the whole limited in means, men, time, and money, nevertheless, there has been an outcome also from other fields of ‘observation, among the total of all of which the following may be briefly summarized: Square miles. Total area west of one hundredth meridian (see progress and annual reports and rectangle map accompanying Ap- @WGhbe18))\ oaoeeccbs acosmie neenditacd Geouceer os snenneS oe 1, 443, 360 Mountainous portion of same w est ‘of the Great Plains (ap- proximately) ..-.:..-.- Date ere Ae se ee Se eraet ec 993, 360 Surveyed topographically of atone mountain ALCOA ees *359, 065 Topographic maps of same, published in 50 atlas sheets (each 19 by 24 inches), on scales of 1 = 8 m., or 1:506,880; 1//— 4m, or 1:253,440; 1’ —'2 m., or 1:126,720; 1’ = 1 m., or I GS3O0 14e— erm or M42 240 eee ns oni. erence sas ete 326,891 Part of above area surveyed, but no ened in regular atlas sheet form (original data reduced upon partially completed OKO tS) sacgcassees sosmade beaoeaee sosboe soegs sods 32,174 Regular topographic atlas sheets of above scales issued (19 liiy BA VEE choo Wand sabposuscandes Geen cAOusd pa ac6o aeeSe 50 Regular land classification atlas sheets issued (19 by 24 inches), (embracing 134,653 square miles) ..... .-...---.-------- 30 Regular geological atlas sheets issued (19 by 24 inches) (em- bracing, 129)841 squareimiles) . saj. = acm ose cyan > sects 11 Special and miscellaneous maps issued (various sizes and seales) (not accompanying reports) ........-...-...---... 19 Special maps issued (various sizes and scales) (accompanying TROIS) Sc aoe seb doe) (ae Has ao SeRUen Aono DASEHomn nace oness 54 MNotahkmapsiorallikindsissuedi2.— smecces2a--c- + soe eres 164 Total number of publications of all kinds issued (15 quarto, 12 annual reports, 14 special and NSE ETRINSO HS) PES a eee te as 41 *Nore. =F iela- plots for all of above | are in contours, while final published maps are both in hachures and contours. 138 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. GENERAL GEOGRAPHICAL RESULTS. Observations and delineation of the physical details of 143 mountain ranges, 103 groups of mountains, and 36 plateaux, within the limits sur- veyed topographically, from among 161 ranges, 196 mountain groups, and 41 plateaux for the entire western mountainous area. . Discovery and naming of the great Colorado Plateau in 1869 and 1871. Securing the principal part of the data necessary to a final classification of the mountain and plateau systems of the western mountain region. Topography of 124,300 square miles of the Great Interior Basin (total area, 208,600 square miles) secured, and 1,925 out of 2,775 miles of its perimeter traced and definitely located, including its northwestern and south- western portions. The position and general profile determined of 840 miles of the Conti- nental Divide. Special exploration of the Colorado of the West to the head of naviga- tion, and its Grand Canon to the mouth of Diamond Creek. Determination of the limits and extent of the Great Interior Basin, in- cluding Death Valley, the Amargosa Desert, and the Colorado and Mohave River Basins. Special examination of the Colorado River of the West, from Stone’s Ferry to Fort Yuma, with a view to its diversion for purposes of irrigation. Specially accurate topographic surveys of Lake Tahoe and vicinity and Yosemite Valley (including much hypsometrie detail) and its approaches (see special maps). Special typical contour Survey of the Washoe mining region. Determination of passes of western, northwestern, and southwestern rim of the Great Interior Basin and of the Continental Divide from fortieth parallel north latitude to Mexican boundary. Preliminary location of southern portion of eastern boundary between Nevada and Utah in 1869. Preliminary exploration of north and south railroad lines crossing the Colorado River at the mouth of the Virgin River and at foot of the Grand Canon. SUMMARY OF RESULTS. 139 Location and extent of great forests in Eastern Arizona and Western New Mexico. Determination of heights of 395 peaks (with names, many of which are new) above 10,000 feet, and of 754 others (with names) between 5,000 and 10,000 feet in height. Location and profile of 202 mountain passes (26 of same belonging to the Continental Divide, and 79 to the western rim of the Great Interior Basin), and meander of not less than 90 rivers and thousands of minor streams. Exploration and underground measurement of 4 caves in Nevada and New Mexico. Meander of 21 lakes (including Great Salt Lake). Exploration of the Grand Canon of the Colorado, the Canon de Chelle, and others, also surveys about the Great American Falls of Snake River. - Discovery of north and south routes, especially from California, Ne- vada, Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado to Arizona and New Mexico, also from California and Nevada to the Valley of the Columbia. Discovery and measurement of levels below sea with determination of limits of special Death Valley Basin. Determination of non-existence of “Preuss Lake,” found on current maps of 1869, along eastern boundary of Nevada. Determination of evaporation about Great Salt Lake. Measurement of volumes of 7 principal streams with reference to water supply and irrigation. Observations for land classification for an area of approximately 175,000 square miles. Topography and partial land classification of 83 Indian (including 19 pueblos) and 32 military reservations, with geographic co ordinates of seven others. Landscape and stereoscopic photographs of mountain forms and Colo- rado Canon and other physical details. Connection made with all land survey stakes wherever found, with results permanently recorded on unpublished plotting sheets. Invention and introduction of the modified secant conic projection, ac- complishing a minimum of distortion in azimuth and distance, and the con- joining of sheets. 140 U. 8S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The introduction and development of land classification, commencing in 1872 (see Chapter V.) Fifteen regular atlas sheets issued (1 =8 m.), embracing 261,232 square miles; thirty-four quarter atlas sheets (1’ = 4 m.), embracing 146,026 square miles; one subquarter atlas sheet (1” =2m.); also Colorado Canon map, scale 1 = 6m; of Lake Tahoe region 1// = 5ms.; Yosemite 2’ = 1m; and of the Washoe district, seale 1/’ = 1,500 feet, the three latter as special types. Contributions to the theory and practice of the determination of field astronomic latitudes and longitudes and barometric hypsometry appear in Vol. IH, quarto series. Published latitudes and longitudes (other than those contained in this volume) found in part in Vol. II, Astronomy.—Ast. Report, 1874—Prelim- inary Report of 1869.—Distances, &e., 4°, 1872—Special Volume, royal 8 vo., and Annual Reports of 1875-76—77—78~79 and ’80. Vertical limits of timber on various mountain ranges ascertained. Invention of apparatus for determining absolute personal equation (see p. 475, Vol. II). Improvements in the portability, telescopic, and microscopic power of triangulation instruments. Determination of the mean declination for 1875 of 2,018 stars. The preparation, issue, and use of special forms (45 in number) for astronomic, geodetic, trigonometric, barometric, topographic, and other ob- servations and their reduction. A trigonometric basis for the Survey with initial points measured and developed bases was established in 1873. Hourly barometric observations at many reference stations made and reduced, Determination of altitudes, reports upon, published in part in Vol. II, special volume royal 8vo, and Annual Reports for 1875276777879 and ’80. Geological reconnaissance of an area of not less than 221,500 square miles. Determination of the extent and correlation of the geological forma- tions for the above with new geological facts and conclusions; of the ex- SUMMARY OF RESULTS. 141 istence of fossil remains widely distributed; and of glacial and voleanic action and phenomena. Determination of the limits in area within which the search for the precious metals may be successful. . Special contributions to the origin and building of mountains, the structure and age of ranges, to glaciation, the existence of precious and eco- nomic minerals, opportunities for artesian wells, also to economic geology, age of coals, distribution of lava, and the presence of borates at new locali- ties east of the Sierra Nevada in the Great Basin. Special chapters relating to the geological phenomena found upon the Colorado Plateau, in the Grand Canon of the Colorado, the Basin Ranges, the Cordilleras, the Sierra Madre, and San Juan Ranges of the Rocky Mount- ain systems, &e. Not less than fifty thermal and mineral springs discovered, of which twenty-seven were analyzed. Old “Lake Bonneville” outlined and partially investigated. Location and examination of 219 mining districts. One new mineral substance discovered, analyzed, and named. Not less than 31 new species of vertebrates from the Loup Fork and many others from the Eocene, and 63 of invertebrates discovered, described, and their geological and other relations established.* In zoology, from the very large and rare collection of birds only one was of a new species, while of reptiles there were eight, fishes thirty-two, mollusca one, and insects sixty-four, from the extremely valuable and rich collections, with many specimens of species exceedingly rare, though not new.t * The identification and description of these new species by Prof. E. D. Cope and Dr. C. A. White may be found in Vol. IV, quarto reports, and Appendix to Vol. IIL (Supplement), Geology. + Messrs. Yarrow and Henshaw have kindly prepared the following list of new species in zoology : BIRDS. Aphelocoma insularis Henshaw. Santa Cruz Island, Cal., 1875. H. W. Henshaw. REPTILES. Bufo pictus Cope. Utah, 1872. Spea stagnalis Cope. Utah and New Mexico, 1874. Rana onca Cope. Utah, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Chilopoma rufipunctatum Cope. Southern Arizona, 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Eutenia plutonius Yarrow. Arizona, 1871. Sceloporus jarrovii Cope. Southern Arizona, 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Sceloporus tristichus Cope. New Mexico, 1874. W. G. Shedd. Sceloporus smaragdinus Cope, Utah and Nevada, 1872, H. C, Yarrow, 142 U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. In Volume VI (Botany) is found the enumeration or description of 104 orders, 637 genera, and 1,657 species from the Survey collections, and not a few of which are new. FISHES. Plagopterus argentissimus Cope. San Luis Val., Col., 1872. Lepidomcda vittata Cope. Col. Chiquito River, Ariz., 1873. Lepidomeda jarrovii Cope. Col, Chiquito River, Ariz., 1873. H.W. Henshaw. Apocope henshavi Cope. Provo, Utah, 1872. H.C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. -Apocope couesti Yarrow. Camp Apache, Arizona, 1873. H. W. Henshaw. Apocope ventricosa Cope. Arizona and New Mexico, 1873. H.W. Henshaw. Alburnellus simus Cope. San Ildefonso, N. Mex., 1874. E. D. Cope and H. C. Yarrow. Alburnellus jemezanus Cope. San Idefopso, N. Mex., 1874. E. D. Cope and H. GC. Yarrow. Coratichthys physignathus Cope. Arkansas River at Pueblo, 1874. C. E. Aiken. Ceratichthys sterletus Cope. San Ildefonso, N. Mex., 1874. E. D. Cope and H. C. Yarrow. Hypsilepis iris Cope. San Ildefonso, N. Mex., 1874. E. D. Cope and H. C. Yarrow. Hybopsis timpanogensis Cope. Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Gila phlegethontis Cope. Beaver River, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Gila tenia Cope, Provo River, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Gia ardesiaca Cope. Gila gula Cope. New Mexico, 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Gila nigra Cope. Arizona, 1874. H. W. Henshaw and J. T. Rothrock. Gila seminuda Cope and Yarrow. Southern Utah, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Siboma atraria var. longiceps, Cope. Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow. Myloleucus parovanus Cope. Beaver River, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Hyborhynchus siderius Cope. Camp Lowell, Ariz., 1874. J. M. Rutter. Hyborhynchus nigellus Cope. Pueblo, Colo., 1874. C. E. Aiken. Campostoma aikenii Cope. Pueblo, Colo., 1874. C. E. Aiken. Pantosteus platyrhynchus Cope. Provo River, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Pantosteus jarrovii Cope. New Mexico, 1873. H. W. Henshaw and H. C. Yarrow. Pantosteus virescens Cope. Pueblo, Colo., 1874. C. E. Aiken. Calostomus allicolus Cope. Twin Lakes, Colo., 1873. J. T. Rothrock. Catostomus fecundus Cope and Yarrow. Utah Lake, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Moxostoma trisignatum Cope. Pueblo, Colo., 1874. C. E. Aiken. Haplochilus floripinnis Cope, Colorado, 1873. H. W. Henshaw and J. M. Keasby. Uranidea vheeleri Cope. Beaver River, Utah, 1872. H. C. Yarrow and H. W. Henshaw. Syllaemus latifrons (fossil) Cope. Colorado, 1874. W.L. Marshall. INSECTS. Trogus mellosus Cresson. New Mexico, 1874. T. V. Brown. Agama nitida Cresson, Colorado, 1873. C. W. Whipple. Agama albipes Cresson. Nevada, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Myzine frontalis Cresson. New Mexico, 1874. H. C. Yarrow. Ammophila yarrowi Cresson. Pueblo, Colo., 1874. H. C. Yarrow. Stizus nevadensis Cresson. Nevada, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Pumenes coloradensis Cresson. Colorado and New Mexico, 1874. H. C. Yarrow. Vespa occidentalis Cresson, Nevada, 1872, H. C. Yarrow. New Mexico, 1873, H. W. Henshaw. Halietus trizonatus Cresson. Nevada, 1872. H. C. Yarrow. Agopostemon meliventris Cresson. Colorado, 1872. H. C. Yarrow. Nomia nevadensis Cresson. Nevada, 1872. H.C, Yarrow. Eunomia marginipennis Cresson. Colorado and New Mexico, 1874. H. C. Yarrow Megacilissa yarrowi Cresson. New Mexico, 1874. H.C. Yarrow. Melecta thoracica Cresson. Eastern Nevada, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Melissodes nevadensis Cresson. Nevada, 1872. H. C. Yarrow. SUMMARY OF RESULTS. It contains also contributions to economic botany and distribution of vegetable life. Bombus nevadensis Cresson. Eastern Nevada, 1872. H.C. Yarrow. Aphaenogaster sp. nov., Camp Hill, 1874. J H. Rutter. Lithurgis apicalis Edw. Colorado and New Mexico. H. C. Yarrow and C. E. Aiken. Nomada grandis Edw. Colorado. H.C. Yarrow. Argynnis hesperis Edw. Colorado. Argynnis nitocris Edw: White Mountains, Ariz., 1873. H. W. Henshaw. Argynnis nokomis Edw. Arizona, 1571. Argynnis nausicaa Edw. Rocky Cation, Ariz., 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Synchloe crocale Edw. White Mountains, Ariz., 1873. H, W. Henshaw. Gyrocheilus tritonia Edw. White Mountains, Ariz., 1873. H. W. Henshaw Apatura leilia Edw. Camp Lowell, Ariz., 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Satyrus wheeleri Edw. Arizona, 1873. Thecla sira Edw. Fort Wingate, N. Mex., 1874. H. W. Henshaw Lycena melissa Edw. Colorado, 1571. Lemonias cytherea Edw. Arizona, 1873. H. W. Henshaw. Catacola editha Edw. Sonoita Valley, Ariz., 1874. H.W. Henshaw. Euchaetes elegans Stretch. Owen’s Valley, Cal. Leucartica albida Stretch. Owen’s Valley, Colo., 1875. H. W. Henshaw. Arctia docta var. arizonensis Stretch. Arizona. Arctia yarrowii Stretch. Arizona. Lasia klettii Osten-Sacken. Camp Apache, Ariz., 1873. F. Klett. Bembidium nevadensis Ulke. Nevada. Dasytes ruficollis Ulke. Nevada. Epicauta wheeleri Ulke. Arizona. Lytta lugubris Ulke. Owen’s Valley, Cal. Crossidius intermedius Ulke. Lioderma viridicata Uhler. Colorado. J. T. Rothrock. Scolopocerus secundarius Uhler. Gila River, Arizona. O. Loew Megalonotus sodalicius Uhler. Colorado, Nevada, Oregon. Miris instabilis Uhler. Colorado. J.T. Rothrock. Hadronema militaris Uhler. Calocoris superbus Uhler. California. F. Bischoff. Corisa dispersa Ubler. California. F. Bischoff. Mantis wheeleri Thomas. Pedioscertetes nevadensis Thomas. Syrbula fusco-vittata Thomas. Lower Arizona, 1874. H. W. Henshaw. Oedipoda hoffmanni Thomas. Arizona, 1871. W. J. Hofiiman. Oedipoda wheelerit Thomas. Oedipoda.utahensis Thomas. Utah. Oedipoda sparsa Thomas. New Mexico. Eremovia magna Thomas. Lower Arizona, 1874. H.W. Henshaw. Pezotettix oregonensis Thomas. Oregon. J. Haldeman. Pezotettiz marshallii Thomas. Southern Colorado, Pezotettix humphreysii Thomas. Southern Arizona, 1574. Caloptenus yarrowii Thomas. Acridium shoshone Thomas. Nevada, Arizona. Acridiwm albolineatum Thomas. Arizona? 1873. Steiroxys hermanii Thomas. 1873. Steiroxys bilineata Thomas. San Carlos, 1574. H. W. Henshaw. MOLLUSCA. Anodonta dejecta Lewis. Arkansas River, west of one hundredth meridian. H. C. Yarrow. geographical 144 U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The numerous archeological and ethnological collections from vicinity of Santa Barbara, California, from Pueblos in Arizona and New Mexico, and certain interior tribes, are mentioned and described in Volume VII of the quarto series, which contains also notes upon human crania and skele- tons and 40 vocabularies of languages and dialects of as many nomad and village tribes. The following is a list of the various lots and specimens forwarded by this office through the Smithsonian Institution to the National Museum, their practical importance to the Survey having ceased with the examina- tion and reports made thereupon. This list has been compiled from the records of this office and those of the Smithsonian Institution so far as the latter have been available: Subject. hee ee Yr. ¥., F. Y.,/F. Y., F.Y., F. ¥.)F.¥., F.Y., iB: Y., r.Y., Ye, Total }1871. | 1872. | 1873. |1874. | 1875. | 1876. | 1877. | 1878. | 1879. | 1880. '| 1883. | 1884, | Potal. | 25 |p = 4 : Rocks : MDOCIMONS te mcemceaeccie ser seemne| ae elere | iseee ee easter eee Sood || boouroc loceec- [24945 1 G2 1s | ee Ses | 2 cere | eaters 4,415 Boxes or lots. <<. c<<-c22.ssse- \ceaeee nena Jaoeccee [nee ee|ecenee [ee eeeee-[oneees eacer Ol a> ae 2 9 13 Minerals, ores, &e.: | Specimens ..../.--..22.22s.000./eeee-- [Peters [eee S| ewe ene Sl eee es 1599371, 813))| eecele wea 3, 806 Vertebrate fossils : | | Specimens)... ski as-cGsse esis soo <3-| cence |seeaae goer | 600K | Settes roan, | Seon *5OO! fess coaltzeoe dla ce ens 1, 000 Lots or boxes ..-...........-.. lec ste Jeceeee|eeeeeee-]eeee-- My”) etvete ms | ees loawicen Bi Sou Saal Pace ees 9 Invertebrate fossils: | TOUS es wake seer ates neice niacicm ate eects | BES See eecksor (etc fasrictoa! Meiers) merce dl emirsce baer DI eeeetese | Re eee 10 MS PCCIMGN Sis estate ct sian see waite | 126 1, 426 15668] 250 -cececl ne wcie le cates 2, 169) NT) 200) | ce calli ee eee wees gO NOe 4 Mammals: | | Specitnens j.ccsqa-csocscen sans 9| 21] 135] 52] 43 10}| 22s |e 2Gil Poe | ces ee| teal: 286 Birds and mammals (alcoholic) : | | | | SPECIMENS oo aac eaenasat a eaiete| (oases aes SoSnpAce) apoeeS 26 | CO ce | Jere [ace eee | ama 30 Mammal crania: | ] MSPSCIIMONE larasinceiai=fmrata aialaqalalsia's'ets'sll = tee lesa 37 3 18 Dl a ere ote | atetetace ell crore mel eee. | emer | eretarae 60 Birds: | Specimens ..........22..20..02- 60] 522) 591,055] 793| 150!.....| 361] 470 |......|...-.- 31 | 4,101 Birds’ nests: | | SPECIMENS as.2 2ac es eciences tee Jeeeee | 10 20 6 | BsStog| Pesciccciad) yncane Le AOU Seer) oeaeen| eae eee 55 Birds’ eggs: { Specimens... ccss:se" moecs|sae t Now kuown as Lake Tahoe. EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 581 panied by a topographical map in two sheets, drawn on a scale of 15 miles to an inch, and a sheet of profiles on a horizontal scale of 15 miles to an inch, and a vertical 50 times the horizontal. There are, besides, geological maps and numerous other illustrations. His preliminary report forms part of House Doe. No. 129, first session Thirty-third Congress. This edition is accompanied by a map in two sheets, and on a scale of 1 to 900,000, and a profile of the route on a horizontal scale of 1 inch to 79,500 feet, and a ver- tical scale of 1 inch to 3,000 feet. Captain Whipple was assisted by Lieut. J. C. Ives, Topographical Engineers; Dr. J. M. Bigelow, surgeon and botanist; Jules Marcou, geolo- gist and mining engineer; Dr. C. B. R. Kennerley, physician and naturalist; A. H. Campbell, principal assistant railroad engineer; H. B. Mollhausen, topographer and artist; Hugh Campbell, assistant astronomer; William White, jr., assistant meteorological observer; Mr. George G. Garner, assist- ant astronomer; Mr. N. H. Hutton, assistant engineer; John P. Sherburne, assistant meteorological observer; and Mr. T. H. Parke, assistant astronomer and computer. They were provided with a portable transit, sextants, and chronometers, for astronomical observations, and with the other instruments needful for reconnaissances. They were escorted by a company of the Seventh Infantry, under Capt. J. M. Jones, and began the survey with a train of wagons. Lieutenant Ives proceeded, with an astronomical transit and other instruments, from Washington, D. C., to Albuquerque, by way of San Antonio and El] Paso, where he joined the party. * * * * * * * * * SURVEY FOR A PACIFIC RAILROAD THROUGH THE PASSES OF THE SIERRA NEVADA AND COAST RANGE, BY LIEUT. R. S. WILLIAMSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1554. The final report of these surveys and reconnaissances forms Volume V of the quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports. It is accompanied q ] by a general map on a scale of 1 to 600,000; one of certain passes on a scale of 1 to 240,000, and several detailed maps. There are, too, sheets of profiles drawn on a horizontal scale of 1 to 120,000 and a vertical scale five times greater. The report is also accompanied by geological maps and profiles. The report and general map were also in House Document No. 129, first session Thirty-third Congress. 582 U.S GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, Lieutenant Williamson was assisted by Lieut. J. G. Parke, Topograph- ical Engineers; Lieut. G. B. Anderson, Second Dragoons; Dr. A. L. Heer- man, physician and naturalist; Mr. W. P. Blake, geologist; Mr. Isaac W. Smith, civil engineer; Mr. Charles Preuss, topographer; and Mr. Charles Koppel, artist. His escort was commanded by Lieut. G. Stoneman, First Dragoons. Continuous topographical sketches of the routes traversed were taken, and the work checked by astronomical observations with the sextant. Two of the passes were surveyed with chain and spirit level. On the map Lieutenant Williamson embodied some of the explorations of Captain Warner which had not before been published. * ¥ * * * * * * * RECONNAISSANCE FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE BETWEEN PIMAS VILLAGE AND EL PASO, BY LIEUT. J. G. PARKE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1854. The report of this reconnaissance forms part of Volume II, quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports. This report is printed in House Ix. Doe. No. 129, first session Thirty-third Congress, and is there accom- panied by a map on a scale of 5 miles to an inch, and profile on the same horizontal scale, the vertical being 1,000 feet to an inch. Lieutenant Parke, assisted by Mr. H. Custer, topographer, and Dr. A. L. Heerman, physician and naturalist, and provided with barometers, odometers, and compass, on the 24th of January, 1854, left San Diego with a party of twenty-three men, exclusive of an escort, under Lieutenant Stoneman, of twenty-eight dragoons * * * * * * * ¥ * RECONNAISSANCE FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM EL PASO TO PRESTON, BY BVT. CAPT. JOHN POPE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1854. The report of this reconnaissance will be found in Volume IT of the quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by a map, on a scale of 15 miles to an inch, and a profile on the same horizontal - scale, the vertical being fifty times greater. The report, with a map and profile, on a scale of 10 miles to an inch, also forms part of House Doe. No. 129, first session Thirty-third Congress. Capt. J. Pope was assisted by Lieut. Kenner Garrard, First Dragoons; Dr. J. Mitchell, surgeon and naturalist; Mr. CL. Taplin, and J. HW. Byrne, EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 583 with an escort of twenty-five men under Lieut. L. H. Marshall, Third In- fantry. The party, including teamsters, etc., numbered seventy-five men. They were provided with sextant, chronometer, odometer, and compasses. The grades were determined by measuring the vertical angle with a theod- olite. The expedition left Dona Ana February 12, 1854. * * * * ¥* ¥* * * £ Captain Pope made additional explorations in the vicinity of the Gua- dalupe Mountains during the years 1855, 1856, and 1857, while engaged in the experiment for obtaining water by artesian wells, but his final report has not yet been made. EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM BENICIA, CALIFORNIA, TO FORT FILL- MORE, NEW MEXICO, BY LIEUT. J.G. PARKE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1854-'55. The report of these examinations forms part of Volume VII of the quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by two topographical maps, on a scale of 12 miles to an inch, and profiles of his routes on the same horizontal scale, and a vertical scale fifty times larger. On the same sheet is a profile of the route from Fulton to San Diego, on a hor- izontal scale of 36 miles to an inch, and a vertical scale fifty times greater. There are also geological maps and profiles. Lieutenant Parke was assisted by Mr. Albert H. Campbell, civil engi- neer; Dr. Thomas Antisell, geologist; and Messrs. Custer and N. H. Hutton, topographers. They were provided with sextants and chronometers, barom- eters, compasses, and odometers. On the 20th November, 1854, they left Benicia with a party of about thirty persons. * * * * * * * * * EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE SACRAMENTO RIVER TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER, BY LIEUT. R. S. WILLIAMSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. The report of this expedition, owing to the illness of Lieutenant Will- iamson, was written by Second Lieut. H. L. Abbot, Topographical Engi- ‘neers. It forms Volume VI of the quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by a topographical map, in two sheets, on a scale of 12 miles to an inch, and two sheets of profiles, on the same hori- zontal scale, but with the vertical scale fifty times greater. The party consisted of Lieut. R. 8. Williamson, Topographical Engi- neers, assisted by Lieut. H. L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers, with Dr. 584 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. J.S. Newberry, as geologist; Dr. E. Sterling, as physician and naturalist; Mr. H. © Fillebrown, as assistant engineer; Mr. C. D. Anderson, as com- puter; and Mr. John Young, as draughtsman. A light cart was taken for the instruments, but everything else was transported by pack mules. The party was supplied with sextants and chronometers, odometers, compasses, and barometers. The expedition left Benicia, California, on July 10, 1855, and pro- ceeded up the Sacramento Valley to Fort Reading, crossing the river at Fremont. At the fort it was joined by the escort, consisting of Lieut. H. G. Gibson, Third Artillery; Lieut. G. Crook, Fourth Infantry; Lieut. J. B. Hood, Second Cavalry, and one hundred soldiers * * * * * > * * * In making the map of this exploration, Lieutenant Abbot embodied various unpublished military reconnaissances made in Oregon and northern California, which he duly acknowledges. These were: That by Major Alvord, in 1853, from Myrtle Creek, in Umpqua Valley, tosRogue River Valley ; that by Mr. G. Gibbs, in 1852, from Humboldt Bay to the head of Scott’s River; that of Lieutenant Chandler, in 1856, near the mouth of Rogue River; that of Lieutenant Kautz, in 1854, near Coos Bay ; those of Lieutenant Williamson from Yreka, east of Shasta Butte, to Fort Reading ; from Yreka to lower Klamath Lake, and from Port Orford to Coquille and Rogue Rivers, made while on military duty in the Department in 1851-52. UNITED STATES AND MEXICAN BOUNDARY SURVEYS. These surveys began in 1849, and continued, with various interruptions, till 1856. During the establishment of the boundary line agreed upon by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, four different appointments were made of United States commissioner, four of astronomer, and two of surveyor. Delays were caused by these changes, by a want of means to properly carry on the work, and by differences of opinion as to the proper initial point on the Rio Grande. The following-named reports can be consulted in relation to it: 1st. The reports of the Secretary of the Interior, one dated February 27, 1850, printed Senate Ex. Doc. No. 34, first session Thirty-first Congress; EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 585 and another dated July, 1852, which is printed Senate Ex. Doc. No. 119, first session Thirty-second Congress. These contain various letters from different individuals and sketch maps in reference to the initial points of the boundary line on the Pacific shore, at the juncture of the Gila and Colorado Rivers, and on the Rio Grande. 2d. Extract from a journal of an expedition from San Diego, California, to the Rio Colorado, from September 11 to December 11, 1849, by A W. Whipple, Lieutenant United States Topographical Engineers; printed Senate Ex. Doc. No. 19, second session Thirty-first Congress 3d. Report of Lieut Col. J. D. Graham, Topographical Engineers, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 121, first session Thirty-second Congress. This is a narative by Colonel Graham of his connection as astronomer, with the establishment of this line, and is accompanied by numerous letters from different persons, one of which is Lieutenant Whipple’s report to Colonel Graham on the survey of the Gila. This report of Colonel Graham is also accompanied by a “barometric profile of the route from San Antonio via Castorville, Fort Inge, Howard’s Spring, Ojo Escondido, Eagle Spring, E] Paso del Norte, and Dona Ana, to the copper mines of Santa Rita, in New Mexico, in 1851; from observations by and under the direction of Bvt. Lieut. Col. J. D. Graham, United States Topographical Engineers, assisted by Lieut. W. F. Smith, Togographical Engineers, and Mr. J. Lawson, and computed by Lieut. G. Thom, Topographical Engineers” The profile is on a horizontal scale of 20 miles to an inch, the vertical scale being 105,%; times greater. Colonel Graham acknowledges, in terms of commendation, the aid re- ceived by him from Lieutenant Whipple, Topographical Engineers, and Lieutenants Tillinghast and Burnside, U. 8. Army. Ath. ‘Personal, Narrative of Explorations and Incidents in Texas, New Mexico, California, Sonora, and Chihuahua, connected with the United States and Mexican Boundary Commission, during the years 1850-51-52, and ’53. By John Russell Bartlett, United States Commissioner during that period ; in two volumes, with maps and illustrations. Published by D. Appleton & Co., Nos. 346 and 348 Broadway, New York, and No. 16 Little Britain, London —\854.” 586 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. In page 11 of the preface to this work, Mr. Bartlett says: ‘‘The maps of the survey, as well as the astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological observations, with all that strictly appertains to the running and marking the boundary line, were, by the instructions of the Secretary of the Interior, placed in charge of the surveyor, Byt. Maj. W. H. Emory, who alone is held responsible for the faithful performance of these duties. From the high character of that officer as an engineer, the public may expect, in proper season, a satisfactory account of his labors in these departments. Some time must elapse before the maps to illustrate the whole boundary from one ocean to the other can be completed; I have therefore been compelled to construct, meanwhile, the map prefixed to this work from my own itinerary and from the most authentic information that could be obtained.” This work contains, among other things of interest, an account of the country south of the boundary, on the route from El Paso via the Guada- lupe Pass to Guaymas; and also of a journey through Chihuahua, Coahuila, and New Leon to the Rio Grande. 5th. ‘Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary Survey,” made under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior, by William H. Emory, Major First Cavalry and United States Commissioner. _Wash- ington: Cornelius Wendell, printer.” The report of Major Emory was published in 1858, and forms Senate Ex. Doe. No. 108, first session Thirty-fourth Congress, and, with the appendices, makes two volumes. There are four topographical maps on a scale of 1 to 600,000, ‘showing the boundary line and the country con- tiguous, as far as information has been obtained from actual survey or reconnaissance.” There is also a topographical map on a seale of 1 to 6,000,000, entitled a ‘Map of the United States and their Territories between the Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean and part of Mexico, compiled from surveys made under the order of W. H. Emory, Major First Cavalry, United States Commissioner, and from the maps of the Pacific Railroad, General Land Office, and the Coast Survey, projected and drawn under the supervision of Lieut. N. Michler, Topographical Engineers, by Thomas Jekyll, C. E., 1857-58.” This map (of all the country north of EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 587 the surveys of the Mexican boundary) is a reduction from the map which I have compiled for the Pacific Railroad office. Major Emory’s report is also accompanied by a geological map of the same country, and on the same scale as that just mentioned, prepared by James Hall, assisted by J. P. Leslie, esq. This map is without date. There is also a barometrical and geological profile along the Rio Grande from its mouth to El Paso, and thence across the country to the Pacific. The report contains numerous illustrations of scenery, and geo- logical, botanical, and zoological plates. Assistance is acknowledged to have been received in the field from Lieut. A. W. Whipple, Topographical Engineers; Bvt. Capt. E. L. F. Hard- castle, Topographical Engineers; Mr. G. C. Gardner, Dr. C. Parry, Messrs. E. Ingraham, C. Radziminski, Arthur Schott, J. H. Clark, S. W. Jones, E. A. Phillips, J. H. Houston, J. E. Weiss, H. Campbell, F. Wheaton, W. White, and G. G. Garner. The line, as finally determined and established under the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, extended up the Rio Grande from its mouth to lati- tude 31° 54’ 40” north; thence west along that parallel to the meridian of 109°37' west; thence due north to the Rio San Domingo; thence down that stream to the Gila; thence down the Gila to its mouth; thence in a straight line to the point on the Pacific in latitude 32° 32’ north. Numerous reconnaissances were made by different parties in going to and from various points on the line; and the Rio Grande was surveyed as far up as the parallel of 32° 22’ north, and a portion of that parallel run by Lieutenant Whipple as directed by Mr. Bartlett, commissioner at the time. The treaty of 1853, by which the tract of territory known as the Gadsden purchase was acquired from Mexico, changed the boundary line so as to make it commence on the Rio Grande at latitude 31° 47’ north; thence due west 100 miles; thence south to latitude 31° 30’ north; thence due west to the 111th meridian; thence in a straight line to a point on the Colorado 20 miles below its junction with the Gila; thence up the Colo- rado to the former line. 588 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, To establish this boundary Major Emory (then brevet major, Corps Topographical Engineers) was appointed commissioner and astronomer on the part of the United States ; and the work was accomplished during the years 1855—56. Major Emory was assisted in this work by Lieut. N. Michler, Topographical Engineers; Lieut. C. N. Tumbull, Topographical ’ } ta) ] oD ? 5 ] Engineers; Messrs. C. Radziminski, M. 'T. W. Chandler, J. H. Clark, H. Campbell, W. Emory, M. Von Hippel, C. Weiss, I. Wheaton, A. Schott, J. Houston, D. Hinkle, B. Burns, E. A. Phillips, and J. O’Donoghue. ’ ’ d ] ) to) Capt. G. Thom, Topographical Engineers, had charge of the office in com- I » +oposray 8 ’ Ss puting the work and projecting the maps of both boundary surveys. SURVEY OF ROAD FROM BIG SIOUX TO MENDOTA, BY BVT. CAPT. J. L. RENO, UNITED STATES ORDNANCE, IN 1853. Captain Reno was assisted in this survey, which was made with chain and compass, by Mr. James Tilton (now surveyor-general of Washington Territory) and Mr. A. Cross. The map now in the Topographical Bureau has never been published. The report forms printed House Ex. Doc. No. 97 first session Thirty-third Congress. EXPLORATIONS OF THE SOURCES OF THE BRAZOS AND BIG WICHITA RIVERS, BY CAPT, R. B. MARCY, FIFTH INFANTRY, IN 1854. The report of this forms Senate Ex. Doe. No. 60, first session Thirty- fourth Congress. It is accompanied by a map of the region explored, on a scale of 8 miles to an inch. Captain Marey was accompanied by Major Neighbors, Indian agent, and Dr. G. G. Shumard, geologist, and escorted by forty-five men of the Seventh Infantry, under Lieuts. N. B. Pearce and G. Chapin. An odometer, compass, aneroid barometer, and thermometer composed his main instruments. The object of the expedition was to find suitable lands to reserve for the Indians. * * * * * * * No astronomical observations being made, he adopted the positions of Forts Belknap and Phantom Hill, from Johnson’s map of Texas. EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 589 FUR HUNTERS OF THE FAR WEST, BY ALEXANDER ROSS, IN TWO VOLUMES; PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER & CO. LONDON: 1855. This book begins with the transfer of Astoria to the British Northwest Company, and gives the history of this company down to its union with the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1821, which closes the first volume. The second volume is a narrative of some expeditions conducted by the author for the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1825 and previous years. On one of these he led a large trapping party into the Snake country, and visited the sources of Salmon, Malade, Goddin’s, and Reid’s or Boisé Rivers, giving a very in- teresting account of much country as yet unexplored by any surveying expedition, and I believe undescribed in any other hook. The information concerning it is of great value and interest. The author, in speaking of the great amount of information required by the members of these fur companies, and the little that has been given to the public, says that it has not been kept secret from design, but merely from inability to make it publie. There are many works of travels and adventures on the prairies men- tioned in this memoir, but I have endeavored to refer to most of those con- taining accurate information of country not covered by the official surveys. MARCH OF THE COMMAND UNDER COLONEL STEPTOE, FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO CALIFOR- NIA, 1854-'55. The report of Capt. Rufus Ingalls, who was quartermaster to this com- mand, forms a portion of the printed annual Executive Document of 1855, part two. A map showing the routes of portions of the command from Salt Lake City west is also a part of the same document, and was furnished by Captain Ingalls. The command started from Fort Leavenworth during the first part of June, 1854, and traveled the usual route via Fort Kearny, Fort Laramie, South Pass, and Bear River to Great Salt Lake City, where they spent the winter. * * x * * * * * * Lieut. 5. Mowry, who accompanied Colonel Steptoe, was detached at Great Salt Lake City in the spring of 1855 to conduct some dragoon recruits and animals by the Sarta Fé trail to Fort Téjon, in California. 590 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. This duty he performed. His report was rendered to the Adjutant-General, but has not been published. It was not illustrated by any topographical sketches. SURVEY OF MILITARY ROAD IN OREGON, BY LIEUT. JOHN W. WITHERS, IN 1854. The map, with descriptive notes, is on file in the Topographical Bureau. It is drawn on a scale of 2 miles to an inch. The road is located along the valley of Umpqua River, between Scottsburg and Myrtle Creek. The re- port of Lieutenant Withers accompanied the annual report of the Colonel of Topographical Engineers for 1855. SURVEYS AND RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUT. G. H. DERBY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON TERRITORIES, 1854 AND 1855. The principal of these examinations were for a road from Salem to Astoria, in Oregon, and from Columbia Barracks to Fort Steilacoom, in Washington Territory. The maps are on file in the Topographical Bureau, drawn on a scale of 1,to 48,000. There are also reductions of these (made in the Topographical Bureau) to a scale of 4 miles to an inch. These surveys and maps were made by direction of Maj. H. Bache, Topographical Engineers, by Lieutenant Derby, assisted by Mr. George Gibbs and C. M. Bache. A brief report in relation to these routes will be tound in the annual report of the Colonel of Topographical Engineers for 1855. RECONNAISSANCE OF THE ROUTE OF THE SNAKE RIVER EXPEDITION, BY LIEUT. G. H. MEN- DELL, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1855. I have never seen Lieutenant Mendell’s report. The reconnaissance was probably made by means of compass courses and estimated distances, checked by astronomical observations for latitude. A tracing from his original map is in the Topographical Bureau. This expedition, consisting of about two companies, all mounted, under the command of Bvt. Maj. G. P. Haller, Fourth Infantry, was organized by General Wool in the summer of 1855, for the purpose of chastising the Indians who had killed some emigrants near Fort Boisé. ® * * * * * * * e EPITOME OF WARREN'S MEMOIR. 591 SURVEYS OF ROADS IN MINNESOTA, UNDER CAPT. J. H. SIMPSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. Captain Simpson’s annual report for 1855, with a map, on a scale of 24 miles to an inch, showing all the General Government roads under his charge, forms a part of the annual Executive document for that year. One of these roads extends from Point Douglas, on the Mississippi, to the mouth of St. Louis River; another from Point Douglas to Fort Ripley; another from Fort Ripley, on Crow Wing River, to Otter Tail Lake; and another from the Mendota to the mouth of the Big Sioux River. These are the principal roads. The one last mentioned was surveyed by Captain Reno in 1853. RECONNAISSANCE IN THE DAKOTA OR SIOUX COUNTRY, BY LIEUT. G. K. WARREN, TOPOGRAPH- ICAL ENGINEERS, IN i855. The report of this forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 76, first session Thirty- fourth Congress. It is accompanied by a map on a scale of 1 to 600,000, giving the detailed topography of the routes explored, and a general map of Nebraska, on a scale of 1 to 3,000,000. While making this reconnaissance I was attached to the staff of General Harney, commanding Sioux expedition, and was assisted by Mr. P. Carrey and J. H. Snowden. Sketches of routes were also furnished me by Lieut. G. T. Balch, U.S. Ordnance, and Lieut. J. Curtiss, Second Infantry. The instruments used consisted of odometers, compasses, and barometers. I left St. Louis on the 7th of June. * * * Over the routes traveled the distances were measured with an odometer, and maps were made of all the routes traversed. RECONNAISSANCE OF A ROAD FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO THE BIG TIMBERS ON THE AR- KANSAS, BY LIEUT. F. T. BRYAN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1855. The map of this is in the Topographical Bureau, but neither it nor the report have been published. The party under Lieutenant Bryan consisted of Mr. J. Lambert, topog- rapher; Mr. C. Lombard, road surveyor; Mr. C. F. Larned and 8. M. Cooper, assistant topographers. Their instruments consisted of compasses and 592 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. odometers. Having surveyed the route from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Riley, they were joined there by an escort under Maj. L. Armistead. * * * * * * * * * RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUT. J. C. AMORY, FROM FORT GIBSON TO BENT’S FORT, IN 1855. Lieutenant Amory was attached to the command of Lieutenant-Colo- nel Morrisson, who left Fort Gibson and traveled up the Verdigris as far as the Kansas boundary. Here they left that river and proceeded north- west, gradually approaching the Arkansas until they struck it at the mouth of Walnut Creek; thence they proceeded over the usual road to Bent’s Fort. Their route from Fort Gibson to the mouth of Walnut Creek was through country previously unexplored. RECONNAISSANCE BY MAJOR MERRILL, UNITED STATES DRAGOONS, IN 1855. This consists in a sketch of the route of a portion of the Second Dra- goons from Fort Belknap direct to Council Grove and Fort Riley. MAP COMPILED BY LIEUT. I. N. MOORE, UNITED STATES DRAGOONS, IN 1855. This map embraces the country between the Rio Grande and Pecos, from the thirty-second parallel to the thirty-sixth, and is compiled from examinations, sketches, and notes taken by himself, Major Carlton, Lieu- tenant Higgins, and other officers of the Army while traversing this region on Indian scouts, ete. The positions of the main points along the Rio Grande, Canadian route, and upper El Paso route are taken from the pub- lished maps of the Topographical Engineers RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUT. E. L. HARTZ, EIGHTH INFANTRY, U. S. ARMY, 1856. Lieutenant Hartz, with a command of three non-commissioned officers and twenty-four men, with two wagons, started on the 16th of August from Fort Davis to intersect the EK] Paso road. His general course was nearly west, but with many détows to obtain water. He passed through the Carisso Pass, which is difficult for wagons, and struck the El Paso road 25 miles west of Eagle Springs. A map of this route was made by Lieu- tenant Hartz, on a scale of 1 inch to 5 miles., It is not stated in his report or map what instruments were emploved in reconnoitering, EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 593 EXPLORATIONS FOR ROAD FROM FORT RILEY TO BRIDGER’S PASS, BY LIEUT. F. T. BRYAN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1856. The report of this will be found in the annual documents accompany- ing the President’s message for 1857. The origiual map, on a scale of 1 to 600,600, is in the Topographical Bureau, and was not published with it Lieutenant Bryan was assisted by Mr. J. Lambert, Mr. C. F. Larned, Mr. S. M. Cooper, assistant topographers, and Mr. H. Englemann, as geologist. They were provided with odometers, compasses, barometers, and sextant. They were accompanied by thirty men, and protected by an escort of one company of the Sixth Infantry under Maj. L. A. Armistead. * * * * * * * * * SURVEY OF ROAD FROM OMAHA CITY TO FORT KEARNY, BY CAPT. JOHN H. DICKERSON, A.Q.M., IN 1856. The report of Captain Dickerson is published with the documents ac- companying the President’s annual message for 1857, but without the map, which is in the Bureau of Topographical Engineers, under the direction ot which the survey was made. This survey from Omaha to the Platte, and along that river to Fort Kearny, was made with a chain and compass and spirit level. A survey was made with compass and odometer of the route up the Loup Fork, on the south side, leaving it near the mouth of Beaver Creek. RECONNAISSANCE FROM FORT RANDALL TO FORT KEARNY, BY LIEUT. W. D. SMITH, SECOND DRAGOONS, IN 1856. A reconnaissance was made of this route during the march of a squad- ron of the Second Dragoons under Lieut. W. D. Smith. The report is aceom- panied by a sketch map made from the measured distances, but without com- pass courses. The report has not been printed. RECONNAISSANCE FROM FORT RIDGELY TO FORT PIERRE, BY CAPT. A. SULLY, SECOND IN. FANTRY, IN 1856. A reconpraissance was made of this route by Captain Sully, whose com- pany formed part of the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Abercrombie, in making the movement between these two posts. Topographical sketches 38 WH—VOL I 594 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. were made with a pocket compass and estimated distances. Captain Sully determined the source of the Big Sioux River to be in Lake Kampeska. This map and the report are not yet published. RECONNAISSANCE ON THE MISSOURI AND YELLOWSTONE RIVERS, BY LIEUT. G. K. WARREN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1856. A map on a scale of 1 to 600,000 has been prepared and the material reduced from it to the Pacific Railroad map. The detailed report and map are not yet published. On this reconnaissance I was assisted by Mr. N. H. Hutton and Mr. J. H. Snowden, assistant topographers, Dr. and F. V. Hayden, geologist and naturalist, and was provided with an astronomical transit, a sextant, chro- nometers, barometers, odometers, and compasses. We started on a steam- boat from St. Louis, April 16, to join General Harney at Fort Pierre, and on our way made a map of the Missouri from the mouth of the Big Nemeha. At Fort Pierre I received orders from General Harney to proceed on board the American Fur Company’s boat St. Mary and examine the Missouri River as far as she should go, and then to return down the stream by Mackinac boats. The Missouri River was thus mapped as far up as the mouth of the Big Muddy, 60 miles above Fort Union. The party consisted, in addition to the assistants, of about thirty men, seventeen of whom were enlisted men of the Second Infantry. * * * * * * * * * BRIEF STATEMENT OF THE EXPEDITIONS THAT TOOK THE FIELD IN 1857. The United States astronomical and surveying parties for establishing the boundary line (49th parallel) between the United States and Great Brit- ain, of which Archibald Campbell, esq., was commissioner, and Lieut. J. G. Parke, Topographical Engineers, astronomer, was organized under the State Department and started for the field of operations on the Pacific coast in April, 1857. The party under Mr. W. H. Nobles, organized in the Interior Depart- ment for making a road from Fort Ridgely to the South Pass, examined the route during the summer as far west as the Missouri at the mouth of Crow Creek. 95 qn EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. The party under Lieutenant Warren, Topographical Engineers, organ- ized by the War Department, started in June in two divisions—one from Omaha City, the other from Sioux City. They united at the mouth of Loup Fork, examined this stream to its source, and thence proceeded by way of the valley of the Niobrara River to Fort Laramie. Thence they proceeded north, explored the Black Hills, and, returning by way of the Niobrara River examined it to its mouth. The wagon-road expedition, organized under the Department of the In- terior, of which Mr. F. W. Lander was the engineer, made reconnaissances of the mountains between Green River and Bear River. The wagon-road expedition under Lieutenant Bryan, this year, was confined to routes which he had previously mapped and explored. The expedition against the Sheyenne Indians, commanded by Colonel Sumner, explored a portion of the country between the Platte and Arkansas Rivers. The party commanded by Colonel Johnston to survey the southern boundary of Kansas, and of which Mr. J. H. Clark was astronomer and Mr. Weiss surveyor, was organized by the War Department. It accom- plished that work and reconnoitered the country south of the line. The party for constructing a wagon-road from Fort Defiance to the tolorado River was organized by the War Department and placed in charge of Mr. E. F. Beale. He examined the line of the proposed road during the summer and winter. The party for the construction of a wagon-road from El] Paso to Fort Yuma, of which Mr. Leach was superintendent and Mr. N. H. Hutton was engineer, passed the summer and winter in the operation, and have not yet returned. The expedition of Captain Pope for making of experiments in artesian well-boring is still in the field. A party under Mr. Major, for establishing that part of the 98th and 100th meridians between the Canadian and Red Rivers, was organized by the Interior Department and is still in the field. The expedition under Lieutenant Ives for ascertaining the navigability of the Colorado of the Gulf of California, was organized under the War De- partment and is still in the field. 596 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. The Land Office surveys along the whole frontier are advancing steadily, as in former years. The foregoing is an epitome of the expeditions taken direct from War- ren’s Memoir, Pacific Railroad Reports, Vol. x1. In Chapter V he gives the method of compiling the map of the territory west of the Mississippi, with a list of the principal longitude determinations. This general map, first pub- lished immediately before the outbreak of the war, was drawn and engraved to the scale of 1 to 3,000,000 (1/’=47.35 miles) and contained all the then known topographic and general geographic information of this territory, and with revisions was issued up to 1867, when a recompilation was commenced. Norr.—As instances, more particularly of general geological exploration work, or publication not appearing on page 490 of House Ex. Doe. 270, Forty-eighth Congress, second session (Venice Geographical Report), notes of which have kindly been furnished by Jules Marcou, the following may be mentioned, which, though not furnishing data valuable for map compilation (especially in original geographical co-ordinates), are of interest at least from a bibliographical point of view: Gabriel Franchere, 1819/46-’54.—Narrative of a voyage to the northwest coast of America in the years 181112~13-'14._ First edition (French), Montreal, 1819; second edition (English), New York. M. Nuttal, 1821.—A journal of travels into the Arkansas Territory during the year 1519, J. K. Townsend.—Narrative of a journey across the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River. Philadelphia: 1839. Prince Maximilian de Wied, Neuwied, 1840.—Voyage in the interior of North America, 1832—33~34. Three volumes with atlas. Paris. (Published also in German.) Duflat de Mofras.—(Exploration du territoire de ?Orégon, des Californies, ete.) Exploration of the Territory of Oregon, of California, ete., 184074142, in two volumes, 5°, 1544, Published by order of the King, under the auspices of the President of the Council and the Minister of Foreign Affairs. Vol. I, p. 521, four plates; Vol. II, p. 387, four plates ; accompanied by an atlas of twenty-six sheets (maps and plans). On page 475 et seq. of Vol. 1 will be found a list of latitudes and longitudes of eighty-six places, with authorities. De Smeth (the Jesuit Father), 1846 (?).—Letters upon the Rocky Mountains. (These first appeared in the Annals of the Propaganda at Rome.) G. F. Ruston, 1848.--Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains. Ferdinand Romer, 1849.—Texas. (Contains a geological and geographical map.) P. T. Tyson, 1850.—Geology of California. His report forms a part of Senate Ex. Doc. No. 47, Thirty-first Congress, first session, which also contains several maps, especially one by Lieut. (afterwards General) E. O. C. Ord, with two reports of this officer to General Riley. Jules Marcon, 1855-’58.—Geology of North America, p. 144, with three maps and seven plates. Zurich: 1858. This publication contains a compiled general geologic map of the country west of the Mississippi River (no scale); also a general geological map of New Mexico (compiled), scale 1 to 900,000. In 1880 General G. K. Warren had proposed to furnish notes of ‘some interesting early explorations” of which he had learned since his memoir was published (and also additional bibliography), as soon as his duties should permit, which he had not, however, been able to do before his death in 1832, In the same category are the following voyages and travels, taken from a manuscript kindly fur- nished by Amos Bowman, now an assistant of the Canadian Geological Survey: In 1806 Simon Frazer, a partner in the Northwest Company, explored westward from the Red River settlement, reaching Fraser Lake, between the great bend of the Fraser River and the mouth of Sheena River, in latitude 54° N., and established a fort.* *See Greenhow’s Memoir, p. 155. EPITOME OF WARREN’S MEMOIR. 597 David Thompson, a partner and geographer of the Northwest Company, set out from the Selkirk settlement on Lake Winnipeg in 1810, for the purpose of crossing the Rocky Mountains to the Columbia River. In the spring of 1811 he constructed a cedar canoe, near the sources of the Columbia (probably at the boat encampment in latitude 52° N.), and descended that river, arriving on July 15 at Astoria. He was the first white man to descend the northern or upper main branch of the Columbia. Finding the Astor Company already in possession he returned the way he came.* He made a map of the previously unexplored and unsuryeyed Northwest Territory, which is pre- served in the Crown lands department of Canada. In 1824~25 Dr. McLoughlin established a post at Fort George (Astoria) and at Vancouver. Rev. Samuel Parker’s exploring tour beyond the Rocky Mountains in 1835-’36-’37, with map, is written in narrative, but has separate chapters on geology, zoblogy, ethnology, and climatology. Mr. Parker entered the Rocky Mountains, and traveled by the usual trappers’ (afterwards the Oregon emigrant) route via Black Hills, Jackson’s Hole, the Three Tetons, Pierre’s Hole, Fort Hall, Grande Ronde, and Walla Walla to Vancouver. In 1841 Sir George Simpson crossed the Rocky Mountains via the Saskatchewan and Kootenay Rivers, and came down the Columbia to the Hudson Bay establishment at Vancouver, of which there is a published account. McLeod’s Santa Fé expedition left Austin, Tex., in June, 1841, and proceeded over the Llano Esta- eado and was captured by the Mexicans. Fremont made a fourth expedition in 1848, at his own expense, assisted by the public-spirited citizens of St. Louis, including Dr. George Engleman. He left St. Louis October 9, 1348, and went via Kanses River to headwaters of the Colorado and the Wabsatch Mountains into California by a southern pass. t Humboldt, in his ‘‘ Aspects of Nature,” attempts to present the progress of discovery in the Far West. * See Irving’s Astoria, pp. 96, 97. tSee Upham’s Life of Fremont. Boston: 1856, a8 gives oad bo A il Ee EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS.—1857-1880. CON TENE S. Inttrodnctoryerem aris trea meeatse om eree ieee ee sae ciate ea encet san iee een ema eens eee CuapTeR I.—Explorations from A. D. 1857 to outbreak of War of the Rebellion. Lieut. G. K. Warren, T. E. (Black Hills), 1857,—Lieut. Col. J. E. Johnston, 1857.—Lieunt. J. C. Ives, T. E. (Colorado River), 1857—58.—Capt. J. N. Macomb, T. E. (Junction Green and Grand Rivers), 1859.—Capt. J. H. Simpson, T. E, (Salt Lake to Carson Valley), 1859.—Lieut. J. Dixon, T. E. (Fort Dalles and Great Salt Lake), 1859.—North western Boundary Survey (A. Campbell, commissioner; Lieutenant Parke, T. E., asironomer), 1859.—Capt. John Mullan, Second Artillery (Fort Walla Waila to Fort Benton), 1858~62.—Capt. W. F. Ray- nolds, T. E. (headwaters Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers), 1869—’60.—Lieut. J. Dixon, T. E. (Harney Lake to Eugene City, Oregon), 1860.—J. H. Clark (Texas boundary), 1857—’60.— Government, wagon-roads; 18576 Nir ss as oe oe cee aciosec\enies ssiseice cake ees o eee cs seek CHAPTER II.—Reconnaissances, explorations, and surveys, headquarters military divisions and de- partments, A. D. 1865 to A. D, 1380. Maj. R. S. Williainson, Corps of Engineers, Susanville to Fort Bidwell, Cal., and Fort Klamath, Oregon, 1865.—Maj. R. 8. Williamson, Corps of Engineers, Fort Churchill, Nev., to Fort Lyon, Idaho, and vicinity and return, 1866.—Lieut. M. R. Brown, Corps of Engineers, Fort Riley to Fort Dodge and Fort Harker to Denver, 1867.—Capt. C. W. Howell, Corps of En- gineers, Republican Fork to 100th meridian, Union Pacific Railroad, 1868.—Capt. W. J. Twining, Corps of Engineers, northern Dakota, 1869.—Capt. Charles W. Raymond, Corps of Engineers, Yukon River, 1369.—Lieut. George M. Wheeler, southern and southeastern Nevada, 1869.—Capt. D. P. Heap, Corps of Engineers, Montana and Dakota, 1870.—Lieut. G. C. Doane, U. S. Army, Upper Yellowstone, 1870.—Capts. J. W. Barlow and D. P. Heap, Corps of Engineers, Upper Yellowstone, 1871.—Capt. W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, Uintah Mountains, 1871.—Capt. D. P. Heap, Corps of Engineers, Missouri River and Da- kota, 1872.—Maj. J. W. Barlow, Corps of Engineers, Yellowstone and Muscleshell Rivers, 1872.—Capt. William Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, Yellowstone River, 1873.—Capt. G. J. Lydecker, Corps of Engineers, Lava Beds, 1873.—Lieut. E. H. Ruftner, Corps of Engineers, Ute country, 1873.—Capt. W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, northwestern Wyoming and Yellowstone Park, 1873.—Lieutenant Ruffner, Corps of Engineers, and Lieutenant Ander- son, U.S. Army, Fort Garland to Fort Wingate, 1874.--Capt. William Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, Black Hills, 1874.—Capt. William Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, Carroll (Mont.) to Yellowstone Park, 1875.—Capt. W. S. Stanton, Corps of Engineers, Big Horn and Yel- lowstone, 1876.—Lieut. E. Maguire, Corps of Engineers, Yellowstone region, 1876.—Capt. W.S. Stanton, Corps of Engineers, routes in Wyoming, 1877.—Surveys of military reserva- tions and wagon-roads. Military topographic maps at headquarters divisions and depart- NS age ecccrsce d6é6 GoGo UC ES Odes BA GSAEIGE BHOS ALES SEAS SE cS Ooce Aiea aan ree eae 601 Pages. 603-604 605-626 627-651 602 U. S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. Pages. CHAPTER III.—Geographical and geological explorations and surveys under War and Interior De- partments, 1865 to 1880 Wak DEPARTMENT.—Engineer Department.—Geological Exploration of the Fortieth Parallel, King, 1867 to 1572, inclusive.—Geographical Surveys west of the One-hundredth Meridian, Wheeler, 1871 to 1879, inclusive.—U. 8. Lake Survey.—Mississippi River Commission and Survey, Col. and Bvt. Maj. Gen. Q. A. Gillmore, Corps of Engineers, and Lieut. Col. and Bvt. Brig. Gen. C. B. Comstock, Corps of Engineers, Presidents to 1879, inclusive.—Missouri River Commission.—Surveys for River and Harbor Improvements.—New Maps of Western Territories and of the United States, by Engineer Department...-..........----.---.---. 653-699 INTERIOR DEPARTMENT.—Geological Examination of Nebraska and Wyoming, 186768; Geo- logical Survey of the Territories, 1869 to 1872, inclusive; Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories, Hayden, 1873 to 1878.—Exploration of the Colorado River, 1869 to 1872, inclusive, and Geological and Geographical Surveys of the Rocky Mountain Re- gion, Powell, 1873 to 1879.—Geological Exploration of the Black Hills, Jenney, 1875, Indian Office.—State and Territorial boundary lines and of Indian Reservation, General Land Oftice, 1857—’80.—Snbdivision of public lands, General Land Office, 1857 to 1880.—U. S. Geological Survey (established) 222. \-2ecsec.s sone ee ta see ee an eae eee see eae eee ee 699-726 StaTeE DEPARTMENT.—Northern Boundary, Campbell, commissioner; Farquahur and Twining, : chief astronomers, 1872). 3. 5s22o5 cece < sew eee aan, saieoes oa) taiciate He clanieeee eelee nese ee et eee Peer atOD TREASURY DEPARTMENT.—Triangulation along Thirty-ninth Parallel, U. S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey, and in aid of State surveys.—U. S. Naval Observatory.—State geological and other suryeys.—Topographie and other Government maps.—Material for a general topo- eraphiciatlas. << coms eiemitasaseieaeciew cece wine oo weienidsoe Geanise ce ES eee oe elee sae occa se ae ee MOS TAO NOTE. The authorities consulted, and upon which this memoir of expeditions between 1857 and 1580 depends, are the published reports of the several expeditions and works, communications from Messrs. King, Hayden, Powell, and G. K. Gilbert (the latter regarding Black Hills exploration by Jenney), replies to Engineer Department circular of February 8, 1875, and from notes compiled in the fifth division of the office of the Chief of Engineers, by whose order all the manuscript matter collected at the Engineer Department has been placed in my hands for examination and digest. In order that a route should be considered as possessed of sufficient geographical information to be embraced in the following lists, especially of expeditions subsequent to the war, the criterion followed has been that there should have been established at its terminal points, or along its course from original and independent observations and computations, latitudes and longitudes, one or both. Hence it has been necessary to omit many worthy military expeditions of no little magnitude and importance, that have added to the store of general geographical and topographical knowledge, that has often in map compilation been utilized by con- necting with known points the geographical co-ordinates of which had been estab- lished, as also the great number of scouts, meritorious in themselves, but not pro- vided with the means or instruments for determining independent geographical latitudes and longitudes. To do full justice to the efforts of the Army, as a fixed, as well as a moving nuclei in the pioneer settlement of our western region would require a special memoir, and while the large number of important military expeditions are not here traced out, as not within the scope of this compilation, yet no one more than the author is alive to the great importance of all these movements, not alone as the bulwark upon which the early settlement has leaned, but as gatherers of facts, topographical detail and allied data. The Army has on one occasion and another threaded nearly every main and minor route in the West and scouted myriads of lesser streams to their very source, thus producing a vast fund of truthful and practical information that in various forms has been available to the Government, the settler, and the public. It is not by any means certain that my examination has developed all the expedi- 603 604 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. tions that come within the schedule, the available time having been short and my health broken ; therefore, conscious of the imperfections, the result is submitted with diffidence, and with the hope that where errors and omissions are found that I may be notified of them. G. M. W. PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES CONSULTED IN PREPARATION OF MEMOIR. Annual Reports, Chief of Topographical Engineers, 1857 to 1862, inclusive. Annual Reports, Chief of Engineers, 1866 to date; also manuscript and other maps at Engineer Department. Professional Papers No, 24, Corps of Engineers, U.S. Army. Primary Triangulation of the Lake Survey, Comstock. Published reports and maps of the geological exploration of the 40th parallel, Published reports and maps, geographical surveys west of the 100th meridian. Published reports and maps of the geological and geographical survey of the Territories. Published reports and maps of the geological and geographical survey of the Rocky Mountain region. Published reports and maps of the geological exploration of the Black Hills. Annual reports of the General Land Office, 1857 to date. Annual reports of the Coast Survey from 1852 to date. Annual reports of the Naval Observatory, and report under Nautical Almanac Office of 1869; total solar eclipse 1869. Executive documents mentioned under the several headings: Report of the survey of the north- ern boundary; report of exploring expedition from Santa Fé to junction of Grand and Green Rivers, 1259, Macomb; report of explorations across the Great Basin of Utah, 1859, Simpson; report of Owen’s geological survey of Lowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota; report of exploration of Oregon Territory by M. Duflot de Mofras, two volumes, 1845; Northwestern Wyoming, including Yellowstone National Park, Jones, 1873; Nebraska and Dakota, Warren, 1825 to 1857; military wagon-road from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton, Mullen, 1858 to 1862; exploration of Yellowstone River, Reynolds, 1858; Texas boundary, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 70, first session Forty-seventh Congress, geological report, Hayden, Engineer Department, 1859 and 1860; Ives’s Colorado River expedition, 1857 and 1858; Barlow and Heap, Yellowstone region, 1871; Ludlow, Black Hills, 1875; Ruffner, Ute country, 1873 and 1874; Ray- mond, Yukon River, 1869; Symons, Columbia River; Geology of the Black Hills of Dakota, Newton and Jenney, 1880. Letters of several engineer officers to the Chief of Engineers, from archives of the Department, and maps compiled at headquarters divisions and departments; manuscript notes prepared in Division V, Office of the Chief of Engineers, U.S. Army; summary list of boundaries run by the General Land Office, in manuscript; manuscript maps of Northwest Boundary Survey, from State Department. From manuscripts and letters kindly furnished by Messrs. Hayden, Powell, King, Hague, Gil- bert, the General Land Office, and others. CHASE Oy Hetuale EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1857 TO OUTBREAK OF WAR OF THE REBELLION, WAR DEPARTMENT. EXPLORATION OF LIEUT. G. K. WARREN, T. E., IN 1857. LOUP FORK, BLACK HILLS, BETWEEN FORKS OF SHEYENNE RIVER, NIOBRARA RIVER, ETC. The survey was made under the direction of Capt. A. A. Humphreys, in charge of Office of Exploration and Survey, and for which the sum of $25,000 was set apart. Organized at Omaha, and left there June 27, 1857. The objects sought were to gain knowledge of the Territories of Nebraska and Dakota generally in both practical and scientific matters, and among the former was specially desired the nature of the routes pursued as to their being favorable or otherwise to the construction of common roads or rail- roads. The expedition divided at once into two parts, one going direct to the Loup Fork of the Platte, the other up the east bank of the Missouri to Sioux Sity, where an escort was obtained, and thence as directly as possible to the rendezvous at the Loup Fork. Thence the whole expedition proceeded up the main Loup Fork to its source, in longitude 104° 35’, in the Great Sand Hills, making oceasional side examinations some 10 miles on each side of the river. Thence the expedition tried to proceed directly north to the Niobrara River, but the sand ridges compelled it to take a westerly course through a country with occasional alkaline and fresh-water lakes, but scantily watered, till it struck the Indian trail between the Platte and Niobrara, in longitude 102° 380’. Thence it easily reached the Niobrara River, which it followed to where the trail turns off to Fort Laramie, and thence to that point, the longitude of which was determined to be 104° 30’. 605 606 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. In two parts the expedition left Fort Laramie September 4, 1857, one portion proceeding down the Niobrara to about longitude 101° 30’, and there awaiting the other, which proceeded nearly due north to the neigh- borhood of Rawhide Butte, which was examined; thence to the Indian agency of the Dakotas, on the Niobrara, and from there by a well-marked trail to the Old Woman’s Fork; down this to the Sheyenne, along this some distance, thence to Beaver Creek, and along the east branch of that into the Black Hills. Entering these from the west the Inyan Kara Creek was reached; thence southeast by a peak named in honor of General Harney to Bear Butte and the North Fork of the Sheyenne; thence southeast to the South Fork of the Sheyenne, where connection was made with the route of 1855; thence up this fork two days, then through a portion of the “Bad Lands” to the White River; thence southerly to the Niobrara River, and thence to the rendezvous with the other party at the mouth of Reunion Creek. The whole expedition then proceeded down the Niobrara River to the junction of Turtle Creek, when the main party proceeded directly to Fort Randall, while a special party continued the reconnaissance of the river to the Missouri. At Fort Randall a fongitude was determined, and thence the expedition went to Sioux City, where it closed. Lieut. G. K. Warren, T. E., commanded the expedition, escorted by 30 enlisted men of the Second Infantry under Lieut. James McMillan. The civil assistants were J. H. Snowden and P. M. Engel, topographers ; Dr. F. V. Hayden, geologist; W. P. C. Carrington, meteorologist; and Dr. 8. Mof- fatt, surgeon. The instruments were a portable transit of 26 inches focal length, pocket and box chronometers, sextants, prismatic and pocket compasses, odometer, mercurial barometers and thermometers, and a full outfit of every- thing necessary for collecting and preserving objects of natural history. Only a preliminary report of Lieutenant Warren to Capt. A. A. Hum- phreys has been published in the Report of the Secretary of War accom- panying the President’s Message to Congress at the session beginning De- cember, 1858. ] gra} *This area is shown on the general sketch wap of the fortieth parallel atlas, and colored on each edition of the Annual Progress Chart of United States Geographical Surveys. +The lists of personnel do not include such assistants as geological collectors, barometer observ- ers, and persons employed from time to time as general assistants. The following extract from a letter from Mr. King serves as a general reference to the principal field assistants, the class of work of each, with mention also of the published results: “Tecan say to you, in general, that the geological work was under my own personal direction ; that Twas assisted in this department by Arnold Hague and S. F. Emmons; that the mining geology was executed in conjunction with myself by James D. Hague. The topographical work was under the general direction of James T, Gardner, who executed the road triangulation on which the map is EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS.—1857-1-80. 655 The escort consisted of 20 mounted enlisted men, with the proper oumber of non-commissioned officers, the necessary camp equipage, trans- portation, and subsistence, and also medical attendance. Supplies were also authorized to be purchased from the Quartermaster and Commissary De- partments. SEASON OF 18€8. The field observations required along the belt in question, commenc- ing April 15, were carried until October 15 eastward, nearly as far as the Great Salt Lake, and to the westward limit of its immediate desert, making a belt of 100 miles wide and 500 miles long in Nevada and western Utah, with preliminary explorations in vicinity of Mono Lake, California, and continuation of investigation of the Comstock Lode. The personnel was as follows: Clarence King, geologist in charge; James D Hague, assistant geologist; Arnold Hague, assistant geologist ; S. F. Emmons, assistant geologist; James T. Gardner, chief topographer ; H. Custer, assistant topographer; A D. Wilson, assistant topographer; F. A. Clark, assistant topographer; Sereno Watson, botanist; Robert Ridg- way, zoologist; TH. O’Sullivan, photographer.* The escort consisted of one sergeant, three corporals, one bugler, and fourteen privates, Troop H, Eighth Cavalry. SEASON OF 1869. The season’s labors were commenced May 1, and disbandment was had in September. The area occupied was in the vicinity of Great Salt Lake, and adja- cent to mountain ranges in Utah and to the eastward as far as the Green River Divide between 111° to 114° west longitude, and 40° to 42° north latitude. based, and measured the astronomical and check bases. The topographical assistants were A. D, Wilson, F. A. Clark, and Henry Custer. “The legend sheet of the main atlas, the title-page of the mining atlas, and the title-pages of the various volumes, give in full the anthorship of the publications of the survey.” *Work carried on in three parties in charge, respectively, of Messrs. King, Arnold Hague, and Emmons. James D. Hague conducted the investigation of mining districts of Nevada and Colorado, in preparation for Volume III on Mining Industry. 656 U.S. GEUGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. A reference to the progress for this season appears in Annual Report Chief of Engineers, 1870, page 87, Vol. III. The first of the quarto series was put to press during the winter of 1869 and 1870. The following constituted the personnel: Clarence King, geologist in charge; James D. Hague, assistant geologist; Arnold Hague, assistant geologist; 8. F. Emmons, assistant geologist; James T. Gardner, chief topographer; A. D. Wilson, assistant topographer; F. A. Clark, assistant topographer; Sereno Watson, botanist; Robert Ridgway, zoologist; T. H. O'Sullivan, photographer.* There was also an escort of one sergeant, one corporal, and nine men, Company H, Eighth Cavalry, and ten men (all mounted), Company I, Ninth Infantry. SEASON OF 1870. The field period, extending from August 12 to November 15, was used in completing vacant spaces in the 1869 work, and special observations in voleanic¢ and glacial phenomena in northern California, Oregon, and Wash- ington Territory. The personnel was-as follows: Clarence King, geologist in charge ; Arnold Hague, assistant geologist; $8. F. Emmons, assistant geologist ; James T. Gardner, chief topographer; A. D. Wilson, assistant topographer ; F. A. Clark, assistant topographer. An escort of one non-commissioned officer and two privates, Company D, Twenty-third Infantry, and such transportation as required and could be spared, was furnished by the military authorities.t Only a commencement was made in this work, which was intended to furnish monographs on the voleanoes, but was never carried to completion. A progress report appears as Appendix ZZ, Annual Report Chief of Engineers, 1871. * Work carried on in three parties in charge, respectively, of Messrs. King, Arnold Hague, aud Emmons. t Preliminary examination of the volcanoes of the Pacific coast, Lassen’s Peak, Mount Shasta in California, Mount Hood in Oregon, Mount Rainier in Washington Territory, EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS.—1857-1880. 657 SEASON OF 1871. The main exploration was continued to the eastward of longitude 111° west in Wyoming, northern Colorado, and a part of Utah, including the Uintah Mountains. The full complement of topographical work was pre- vented by forest fires of great extent. Volume III, quarto reports, appeared during 1871. The personnel was as follows: Clarence King, geologist in charge ; Arnold Hague, assistant geologist; S. F. Emmons, assistant geologist ; James T. Gardner, chief topographer; A. D. Wilson, assistant topographer; F. A. Clark, assistant topographer. The escort consisted of one sergeant, one corporal, and thirteen pri- vates (mounted). Forage from the quartermaster’s department for not ex- ceeding forty animals was supplied.* SEASON OF 1872. During this field year the unfinished geologic and topographic observa- tions in Wyoming and northern Colorado were completed, with a review of the whole field of exploration from the 105th to the 122d meridian, and further study of extinct volcanoes and glacial phenomena. The party disbanded on November 13. Omissions were supplied north of Humboldt River as far east as Hum- boldt Wells, and field work carried to the region east of the Worth Platte. Special observations were conducted in the Sierra Nevada, and at and about Mount Humphreys and the San Francisco Mountain region of the Colorado plateau. The following was the personnel: Clarence King, geologist in charge; Arnold Hague, assistant geologist; 5S. F. Emmons, assistant geologist ; James T. Gardner, chief topographer; A. D. Wilson, assistant topographer; F. A. Clark, assistant topographer. An escort of one sergeant and nine men of Company A, Second Cav- alry, was detailed to accompany the party of Mr. Emmons.t+ *The work was carried on in two parties under the charge of Messrs. Hague and Emmons, re- spectively, the former taking the eastern, the latter the western portion of the region embraced. +The work was carried on in two parties under the charge of Messrs. Hague and Emmons, re- spectively, the former taking the eastern, the latter the western portion of the region, 42 WH VOL I 658 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. Statement of progress for this year is found in Appendix DD and DD’, Annual Report, Chief of Engineers, 1873. Mr. King alone in 1873 made a field geological review between Sep- tember 2 and December 13 of the archzean formations as well as classi- fication of the important mining districts visited. The balance of the year was taken up in office work by himself, two geological assistants, one topographer, one clerk, and one’ microscopist. The office work,* with two geological assistants, one topographer, one clerk, and one microscopist, continued during the years 1874 to 1878, and Mr. King’s services in connection with this duty terminated January 30‘ 1879, while the publication of Vol. VII, the last of the quarto series, is announced in the Annual Report Chief of Engineers for 1880. The main results connected with this work are seven quarto volumes and one atlas. This atlas contains ten sheets, five alone showing topography proper,t while the geological representations are found in colors upon the above topographic sheets in contours as a base. _ Contributions from Messrs. J.D. and Arnold Hague, Emmons, Watson, Eaton, Meek, Hall, Whitfield, Ridgway, Marsh, and Zirckel appear in the several volumes other than No. I, by Mr. King. Volume III (Mining Industry) was issued in 1870, V. (Botany) in 1871, VI (Microscopic Petrography) in 1876, Il and IV (Descriptive Geology and Ornithology and Paleontology) in 1877, I (Systematic Geology) in 1878, and VII (Odontor- nithes) in 1880 ¢ The only published geographical co-ordinates are seven latitudes, found in appendix to Volume I, page 765. It appears that the latitudes and longitudes of three stations (Verdi, Salt Lake, and Sherman) by the U. 8. Coast Survey were utilized. The following main or initial astronomical stations of the U. 8. Geo- graphical Survey fall within the fortieth parallel: (1) Virginia City, (2) Austin, (3) Carlin, and (4) Winnemucca, Nev.; * Reports of office progress toward completion appear as appendices to Annual Report Chief of Engineers, as follows: EE 1874, KK 1875, II 1876, MM 1877, and MM 1878. t The hill work of the topographic sheets, instead of hachuress, is represented by brush shading with an oblique light. t A reference to progress and results of this work may be found in House Ex. Doc. No. 88, Forty- fifth Congress, second session, EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS—1857-1880. 659 (5) Ogden, Utah; (6) Green River, (7)* Fort Steele, (8) Laramie, and (9) Cheyenne, Wyo. Various altitudes are found on the maps, but no distances are given in figures. The methods employed for establishing the field data, upon which the topographic maps are based, is described by Mr. James T. Gardner, pages 764 to 769, appendix to Volume I, Systematic Geology. The many collections in mineralogy, paleontology, and other branches of natural history were, upon the conclusion of the investigations, trans- ferred finally to the National Museum. The original field and manuscript records remain a part of the archives of the Engineer Department. The following is a brief list of maps and reports resulting from this exploration: MAPS, 1. General atlas. (Scales 1 inch to 60 miles and 1 inch to 4 miles.) HG Onera ani preliMINALy re rerceiew cles wieevelei-= ow ietel= =n ele cicwcets oe sles vise slecueiseseisceises/--e ss 1 PeOPOPTAD MO meee mee seer telecisiac stelcisiawietfale owe oe sale acs siscmewctssmeciiossiesceeceeepieosiaeme 5 3b CEOS - conde cscoteee bee achoigenoneadtaguds sasésocaugcacauaos sdécccEensand osocce caBHSe 5 ik IONS onn odeic SOE Ser SoOs HBSS OGRO SEC BSOMOnS 56d0 Deed COSeEFgH DOUG HOSCAU ESCH Sasa BESeue 1 2. Atlas with Volume III (geological and mining maps): CEOINE IO = secsssacnso6e cobb sB0k56 ode SSdbE86, Cao Ses Scesos Goccae BeooopEobode cSSCSUbSSsEs sous 3 Miscellancousizesscsteemaectseer sais seecites Seeiecieseeies ciseet selec ainceson ee ease eeecie sees 3 SECTIONS) Seqachs S460 ondS00 cocidES. GE Cane Rep O60 OODOSOUSOS, COU BHSS aKda booo BacaEa se Sd6S qSnEES 7 OE opas BSeBdcEdenSe Godg CGE BOS DED SCo.GO OHNE noesuD bacuA DHS CoH nSHade Geckos doar sacuasss 25 REPORTS. fPAnnualstseparatelyspublished cocececwsce so acccelsices surveys west of the Mississippi; (8) exploration and reconnaissance head- quarters of military divisions and departments, including surveys of military reservations ; (9) certain international boundary surveys; (10) exploration of Yukon River, Alaska. In the War Department proper may be found explorations in Alaska (Allen), and notes, maps, ete., at the various engineers’ offices, headquarters divisions and departments. The Mississippi and Missouri River Commissions retain in their offices manuscript material of special topographic and hydrographic surveys made under their auspices. TREASURY DEPARTMENT. Office of the Coast and Geodetic Survey for topography of the Atlantie, Gulf, and Pacific coasts; also Alaska, transcontinental triangulation, and that in aid of State surveys, including Mississippi River to head of tidal in- fluence and precise levelings. INTERIOR DEPARTMENT. The General Land Office for its subdivision plats; boundaries between States and Territories; surveys of private land claims and Indian reserva- tions; topography of the United States geological survey of the Territories ; the geological and geographical survey of the Rocky Mountain region; the geological exploration of the Black Hills, and the United States geological survey. STATE DEPARTMENT. Records of the Texas, Northeast, Northwest. Northern and Mexican boundaries. : NAVY DEPARTMENT. Latitudes and longitudes by the Naval Observatory and Nautical Al- manac. There are also results from all State boundaries ; the subdivision surveys in Texas ; triangulation and topography by the State surveys of Massachusetts TOPOGRAPHIC ATLAS OF THE UNITED STATES. 745 and New York; topography of State geologic surveys of New Hampshire, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, North Carolina, Georgia, Michigan, Missouri, and California; of surveys for railroads, including trans- continental survey, and canals, for turnpike, toll, and other wagon-roads, for counties, towns; also, by private or corporate parties, including the utilization of all manuscript and published data from all of these surveys, decided as available after competent inspection. Systematic compilation, based upon the above, should be constantly prosecuted independently of whatever field-work may be carried forward. Imperfect as it is feared the foregoing memoir may prove, resulting in part from want of assistance and ill health during its preparation, one trusts that it will serve to perpetuate in authentic form an official record of those organizations, officers, and others that as a whole have contributed to the ageregate of our present critical geographic knowledge of that portion of our territory west of the Mississippi up to 1880.* *There does not yet exist a published list of the principal latitudes and longitudes established by the several Government surveys, gathered in a single tabulated view, and all known separately- published lists are in a measure fragmentary. Sneh a list, compiled under competent jurisdiction, accurately weighted as to precision, and classified, with description of monuments, and careful biblio- graphical references, although a matter of no little labor, would nevertheless prove of great permanent value. APPENDIX G. SYNOPTICAL TABLE OF CONTENTS OF QUARTO REPORTS, IN EIGHT VOLUMES, INCLUDING VOL. III, GEOLOGY. (SUPPLEMENT.) VoLUME I.—GEOGRAPHICAL REPORT. Capt. George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, U. S. Army. (See table of contents herewith, p. 3.) VOLUME II.—ASTRONOMY AND BAROMETRIC HYPSOMETRY. Introductory letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. Part I. Astronomical co-ordinates, Ogden, Utah, pp. 7-55; Beaver, Utah, pp. 59-71; Pioche, Nev., pp. 75-96; Gunnison, Utah, pp. 97-125; Green River, Wyo., pp. 129-154; Winnemucca, Nev., pp. 157-182; Virginia City, Nev., pp. 185-210; Georgetown, Colo., pp. 213-237; Hughes, Colo., pp. 241-263; Labran, Colo., pp. 267-286; Trinidad, Colo., pp. 291-312; Fort Union, N. Mex., pp. 315-355; Santa Fe, N. Mex., pp. 339-369; Bozeman, Mont., pp. 373-384; Las Vegas, N. Mex., pp. 387-410; Cimarron, N. Mex., pp. 405-415; Sidney Barracks, Nebr., pp. 419-432; Julesburg, Colo., pp. 435-448; North Platte, Nebr., pp. 451-458; Dr. F. Kampf; Prof. T. H. Safford; J.H.Clark; W.W.Maryatt; E. P. Austin. Descriptive report of Salt Lake Observatory, J. H. Clark, pp. 451-467. Descriptive report of Ogden Observatory, Lien- tenant Wheeler, pp. 469-471. Personal equation apparatus, Dr. F. Kampf, pp. 475-483. Descriptive list of astronomical stations, Lieutenant Wheeler, pp. 485-491. II. Lieutenant Marshall, Corps of Engineers: Barometric hypsometry, pp. 497-529; tables, hourly observations, pp. 530-550; horary corrections, pp. 551-554 ; tables of altitudes, pp. 556-566. VOLUME III.—GEOLOe@Y. Introductory letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. I. G.K. Gilbert; Nevada, Utah, California, and Arizona, 1871 and 1872, pp. 21-187. II. A. R. Marvine; St. George, Utah, and Gila River, Arizona, 1871, pp. 189-225. IIl. E. E. Howell; Utah, Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico, 1872 and 1873, pp. 227-301. IV. J. J. Stevenson; Colorado, 1873, pp. 305-501. V. &. K. Gilbert; New Mexico and Arizona, pp. 503-567. IV. Mineralogical and agricultural conditions, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona, 1873; O. Loew, pp. 569-661. PART VoLuME III (SUPPLEMENT).—GEOLOGY. Letter of transmittal, Captain Wheeler. Part I.—Prof. J. J. Stevenson, Ph. D. Introduction. CuaPTER I. General physical features, pp. 13-27. II. Notes respecting previous explorations, pp. 28-36, TAT 748 U.S. 1ODE LV. Nic Male CHAPTER CuaPprTerR XIII. JA XV. XVI: GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH Part II.—Systematic Geology, Professor Stevenson. Displacements of the strata, pp. 37-65, The Archen Rocks, pp. 66-72. The Carboniferous Rocks, pp. 72-84. The Jura Trias, pp. 85-87. . The Dakota Group, pp. 84-8. . The Colorado Group, pp. 95-101. . The Laramie Group, pp. 102-150. . The relations of the Laramie, pp. 131-158. . The Tertiary Rocks, pp. 159-174. . Surface geology, pp. 175-192. Part Il].—Descriptive Geology, Professor Stevenson. Area of the Purgatory River, pp. 103-224. Area of the Canadian River, pp. 224- Area of the Mora River, pp. 283-312. Area of the Rio Grande, pp. 313-353, Part 1V.—Economie Geology, Professor Stevenson, MERIDIAN. CuaptEr XVII, Capabilities for settlement, pp. 354-358. XVIII. Summary of Mineral Resources, pp. 389-406. APPENDIX. Dr. C. A. White: Carboniferous Invertebrate Fossils of New Mexico, pp. I to XXXVII. VoLuME IV.—PALEONTOLOGY. Introductory Letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. Part I.—Dr. C. A. White. CHAPTER I. General Observations, pp. 5-20. Il. Classification, pp. 21-831. III. Fossils, primoidal Period, pp. 32-49. IV. Fossils, Canadian period, pp. 49-61. V. Fossils, Trenton period, pp. 62-78. 2 VI. Fossils, Sub-carboniferous period, pp. 79-95, VII. Fossils, Carboniferous period, pp. 96-168. VIII. Fossils, Jurassic period, pp. 162-168. IX. Cretaceous period, pp. 169-205. X. Tertiary period, pp. 206-216. Part II.—Prof. E. D. Cope. CHAPTER XI. Geology of Mesozoic and Tertiary Beds and Mesozoic Fossils, pp. 1-36. XII. Eocene Fossils, pp. 37-2582. XIII. Fossils of Loup Fork Epoch, pp. 283-365. VoLuME V.—ZooLoey. Introductory Letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. CHAPTER I. Geographical Distribution and Variation with regard to the Zoology of the West, relating especially to Mammals and Birds, Dr. H. C. Yarrow, pp. 23-34, Il. Mammals: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; Drs. Coues and Yarrow, pp. 35-129. Ill. Birds: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; H. W. Henshaw, pp. 132-507. CHAPTER CHAPTER Te Il. III. TVs SYNOPSIS OF QUARTO VOLUMES. 749 . Batrachians ana Reptiles: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; Dr. Yarrow, pp. 509-584. . Reptiles and Batrachians of Arizona: Dr. Coues, pp. 585-633. . Fishes: Nevada, Utah, California, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; Professor Cope and Dr. Yarrow, pp. 635-703. . Hymenoptera: Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1872, 1873, and 1874; E. T. Cresson; with list of Formicide ; Edward Norton, pp. 705-735. Diurnal Lepidoptera: Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1s71, 1872, and 1874, with notes upon all species known from Colorado; Theo. L. Mead; and a list of all species collected; W. H. Edwards, pp. 737-794. . New species of Zygenide and Bombycide: California and Arizona; 1871, 1872, and 1873; R. H. Stretch, pp. 795-902. . Diptera: Colorado and Arizona; 1873; C. R. Osten-Sacken, pp. 803-807. Coleoptera: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; Henry Ulke, pp. 809-827. . Hemiptera: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1873, and 1874; Professor Ubler, pp. 828-842. Orthoptera: Nevada, Utah, California, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1871, 1872, 1873, and 1874; Professor Thomas, pp. 843-908. Neuroptera and Pseudo Neuroptera: Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1872, 1873, and 1874; Dr. Hagen, pp. 909-922. . Terrestrial and Fluviatile Mollusca: Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona; 1872, 1873, and 1874; Dr. Yarrow, pp. 923-954. . Fresh-water Leeches: 1872, 1873, and 1874; Professor Verrill, pp. 955-967. VoLuME VI.—Borany. Introductory Letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. Colorado District: Dr. Rothrock, pp. 1-14. New Mexico District: Dr. Rothrock, pp. 15-37. Economic Botany: Dr. Rothrock, pp. 39-52. Catalogue: Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona; Dr. Rothrock, and Sereno Watson, George Engleman, Professor Porter, M. S. Bebb, William Boott, George Vasey, Professor Eaton, Thomas P. James, Professor Tuckerman, pp. 53-351. APPENDIX. California collection: Dr. Rothrock, pp. 353-378. VoLuME VII.—ARCH-EOLOGY. Introductory Letter, Lieutenant Wheeler. + Part I.—Prof. F. W. Putnam. (Assisted by C. C. Abbott, M. D., S. 8. Haldeman, L. L. D., H. C. Yarrow, M. D., H. W. Henshaw, and Lucien Carr.) Introduction: General Archeology and Ethnology of Southern California, pp. '-31; Yarrow’s Report on operations of party making collections, pp. 32-45; Collections at Dos Pueblos and La Patera, pp. 46-48; Chipped Stone Implemexts, pp. 49-69; Stone Mortars, Pestles, Cups, ete., pp. 70-92; Cooking vessels, baking stones, etc., pp. 95-116; Manufacture of soap-stone pots, pp. 117-121; Articles made of wood, pp. 122-124; Stone pipes, pp. 125-134; Perforated stones, pp. 135-189; Miscellaneous articles of stone, pp. 190-217; Sculptures, pp. 215-221; Implements and weapons of bone and wood, pp. 222-223 ; Musical instruments made of bones, pp. 234-238; Textile fabrics, basket-work, brushes, pp. 239-250; Ornaments and paint, pp. 251-262; Beads, pp. 263-271; Iron implements and other objects, obtained by contact, with Europeans, pp. 272-276; Observations on Crania in California, 750 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. APPENDIX to Part I.—Translation of the acconnt of Cabrillo’s voyage along the west coast of North America, with introductory notes (N. W. Henshaw), pp. 293-314. Part II.—The Pueblo Ruins and the Interior Tribes, Prof. F. W. Putnam. Introduction, pp. 315-318; Notes on the Pueblos and their inhabitants, pp. 319-321; The Pueblo of Acoma, pp. 325-326 ; The Pueblo of Taos, pp. 327-330; The Pueblo of San Juan, pp. 33L; The Cachina, a Zuni dance, pp. + 36; Report on the ruins and Pueblos in New Mexico, pp. 337-345 ; Ruins in New Mexico, pp. 346-350; Ancient population in northwestern New Mexico, pp. 351-361 ; Ruined Pueblo and burial place in the Valley of the Rio Chama, pp. 362-365; The Pueblo Pintado and other ruins in the Chaco Canin, pv. 366-369; Cliff House and cave in New Mexico, pp. 370-371; Ruins in the Canon de Chelle, pp. 372-373 ; Notes on the implements, pottery, and other objects from New Mexico and Arizona, pp. 374-390; Notes upon human crania and skeletons, pp, 391-398. AppeNnDIXx. Linguistics: Albert 8. Gatschet; classification of dialects in forty vocabularies, into seven linguistic stocks, pp. 399-423; Comparative tables of forty vocabularies, pp. 424-466. Appendix : Additions to the forty vocabuies, SYNOPTICAL LIST OF REPORTS AND MAP. SPECIAL PRELIMINARY AND PROGRESS REPORTS. I.—Exploration of 1869. Preliminary Report upon a Reconnaissance through Southern and Southeastern Nevada. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1875. (Republished from a royal octavo edition, by order of the Sec- retary of War. 4°, pp. 72. Original and later edition out of print.) Il.—Exploration and Survey of 1571. Preliminary Report concerning Explorations and Surveys, principally in Nevada and Arizona. Wash- ington: Government Printing Office, 1872. (4°., pp. 96, with map. Out of print.) I1I.— Exploration and Survey of 1872. NotTe.—The regular Annual Report of 1872 appearsas Appendix D D of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers of that year, but was not separately issued. Progress Report upon Geographical and Geological Explorations and Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1874. (4° pp. 56, with skeleton map and fine plates. Out of print.) IV.—Survey of 1873. Annual Report upon the Geographical and Geological Surveys and Explorations west of the one hundredth meridian, in Nevada, Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona, being Appendix E E, of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1873. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1873. (11 pp. 8° with skeleton map. Out. of print.) V.—Survey of 1874. Annual Report of the Geographical Explorations and Surveys west of the ove hundredth meridian, in California, Nevada, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Wyoming, and Montana, being Appendix FF of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1874. Washington : Government Printing Office, 1874. (130 pp. 8° with progress map. Out of print.) VI.—Survey of 1875. Annual Report upon the Geographical Exploration’ and Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian in California, Nevada, Nebraska, Utah, Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, Wyoming, and Montana, being Appendix L Lof the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1875. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1875. (196 pp. 8° with progress and triangulation maps of 1875, and thirty-eight illustrations, Out of print.) 751 752 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. VII.—Survey of 1876. Annual Report upon the Geographical Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian, in California Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Wyoming, New Mexico, Arizona, and Montana, being Appendix J J of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1876. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1876. (350 pp. 8° with nine large and small folded maps, fifteen illustrations, and seven separately folded topographic atlas sheets, viz, Nos. 61 B, 61 C, 61 C sub, 69 D, 75, 76, and 83. Out of print.) VIII.—Survey of 1877. Annual Report upon the Geographical Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian, in the States and Territories of California, Oregon, Nevada, Texas, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, Utah, and Wyoming, being Appendix N N of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1877. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1877. (133 pp. 8° with progress map, sketch and profile maps of Continental Divide, and sketch of lignitic seams. Also Atlas Sheets Nos. 53 C, 61 B, 61C sub, 61 D, 65 D, 69 B, 70 A, 70 C, and 77 B, land-classification series. ) Nore.—This separately printed report follows the paging given to it in the Report of the Chief of Engineers. IX.—Survey of 1878. Annual Report upon the Geographical Surveys of the territory of the United States west of the one hundredth meridian, in the States and Territories of California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, Nevada, Oregon, Texas, Arizona, Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming, being Appendix N N of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1878. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1878. (234 pp. 8° with progress map and six illustrations and an early map of California. Out of print.) Also nine separately folded atlas sheets, viz, Nos. 41 B, 47 D, 61 C. 62 A, 62 C, 69 D, 77 D, and 84 B. X.—Survey of 1879. Annual Report upon the Geographical Surveys of the territory of the United States west of the one hundredth meridian, in the States and Territories of California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, Nevada, Oregon, Texas, Arizona, Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming, being Appendix O O of the Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers for 1879. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1879. (335 pp. 8° with progress map and six illustrations.) Also seven separately folded atlas sheets, viz, Nos, 32 D, 47 B, 47 D, 61 D, 73 A, 73 A, and 84 B. XI.— Reports of 1880. Annual Reports upon the Geographic and Topographic Surveys of the territory of the United States west of the one hundredth meridian, in the States and Territories of California, Colorado, Kansas, Nebraska, Nevada, Oregon, Texas, Arizona Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming, being Appendix TT for 1880 (44 pp. 8° with progress map); Appendix V V for 1881 (5 pp. 8° with progress map); Appendix T T for 1882 (4 pp. 8° with progress map); Appendix V V for 1883 (3 pp. 8°); and Appendix V V for 1884 (4 pp. 8°). Washington: Government Printing Office, 1880, 1881, 1882, 1883, and 1884. QUARTO REPORTS. Vou. I. Geographical Report (in five chapters, with an introduction and appendixes, illustrated by three maps and thirty-eight plates, 764 pp. 4° and index.) Issued 1889. Vou. II. Astronomy and Barometric Hypsometry (in two parts, illustrated by twenty-two plates and three wood-cuts, 584 pp. in all. Out of print). Issued 1877. Vou. IIL. Geology (in six parts, illustrated by thirteen plates and one hundred and seventy-one wood- cuts, 681 pp. Out of print). Issned 1875, Vout. III. Geology, supplement (in four parts and an appendix, illustrated by four plates, three maps, and forty-nine cuts, 458 pp.). Issued 1881. SYNOPTICAL LIST OF REPORTS. ioe Vor. IV. Paleontology (in two parts, illustrated by eighty-three plates, with explanatory notes, 604 pp. Ont of print). Issued 1877. Vou. V. Zoology (in sixteen chapters, with forty-five plates, and indexes, 1021 pp. Ont of print). Issued 1875. Vou VI. Botany (in four chapters, with an appendix, thirty plates, and one wood-cut, 424 pp.). Issued 1878. VoL. VII. Archeology, (in two parts, with two appendixes, illustrated with frontispiece, sketch, twenty plates, nd thirty-five cuts, 517 pp.). Issued 1379. SPECIAL AND MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS. Tables of camps, distances, ete. Explorations and Surveys in Nevada and Arizona, 1871. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1872. (Oblong folio, pp. 14. Out of print.) Tables containing camps, distances, latitudes, longitudes, altitudes, etc. Explorations and Surveys in Utah, Nevada, and Arizona, 1872. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1873. (4°, pp. 43. Out of print.) Report upon the Determination of the Astronomical Co-ordinates of the Primary Stations at Cheyenne, Wyo., and Colorado Springs, Colo., during 1872 and 1873. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1574. (4°, pp. 82. Out of print.) Report upon Vertebrate Fossils discovered in New Mexico, with description of new species. Extract from Appendix P P of Annu | Report of the Chief of Enginevrs, 1874. Washington: Government Printing Office, November 23, 1874. (pp. 18, 8°. Out of print.) Nore.—This was preliminary to the full report in Part II, Vol. IV, 4° series, Paleontology. On the Plagopterinawz and Ichthyology of Utah, 1874. (pp. 14, 8°. Out of print. ) Nore.—This was republished from the Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, where the material was first presented by permission of the War Department. Systematic Catalogue of the Vertebrata of the Eocene of New Mexico, collected in 18 4. Washington: Government Printing Office, April 17, 1875. (yp. 37, 8°. Ont of print.) Notr.—This report is a second and final part of the preceding one of November 28, 1874. See 4° series, Vol. IV, Part II, Paleontology, for full report. Preliminary Report upon Invertebrate Fossils, collected by the expeditions of 1871, 1872, and 1873, with description of new species. Washington: Government Printing Office, December, 1874. (pp. <7, 8°. Out of print.) Norre.—Preliminary to the full report in Vol. IV, 4° series, Part I, Paleontology. Catalogue of Plants collected in the years 1871, 1872, and 1873, with descriptions of new s, ecies. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1874. (pp. 62, 8°. Out of print.) Norr.—Preliminary to full report in Vol. VI, Botany. Report upon Ornithological Specimens collected in 1871, 1872, and 1873. Washington: Government Printing Office. (pp. 148, 8°. Out of print.) Notr.—Preliminary to the full report in Vol. V, Zoology, 4° series; also a List of Biras of Utah, with annotations by Mr. Henshaw, appended. From the Annals of the Lyceum of Natural History of New York, Vol. XI, June, 1874. Logarithm, Traverse, and Altitude Tables. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1875. (pp. 30, 8°. Out of print.) Instructions for taking and recording Meteorological Observations, ete., prepared for use of parties of Geographical Survey west of the one hundredth meridian, with Barometric Tables I to XI, inclusive, of Professional Papers, Corps of Engineers, No. 15, appended. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1875. (pp. 64, 8°. Out of print.) Note.—The above is a revision of similar “Instructions” issued in 1874, in pamphlet form, 12mo. Barometric Hypsometry Instructions. (1876.) Washington: Government Printing Office, 1876. (8°, pp. 88. Out of print.) Note.—This is a revised edition of the preceding. Catalogue of Mean Decl.nation of 2,014 Stars, for January 1, 1875, Washington: Government Printing Office, 1877. (4°, pp. 207.) 48 WH VOL I 754 U. 8. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. List of Longitudes, Latitudes, and Altitudes, being an extract from Vol. IT, 4° series (pp. 22, with blank tables ; oftice edition). Field List of Time Stars, ete. (1878.) Washington: Government Printing Office, 1578. (8°, pp. 13.) Nore.—The inside heading of this pamphlet is: ‘List of 278 Time Stars and 63 Cireumpolars, for use of,” ete. List of Reports and Maps of the United States Geographical Surveys west of the One Hundredth Meridian. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1878. (8°, pp. 36. Out of print.) Nore.—This pamphlet contains the title and table of contents of book aud pamphlet publica- tions of the survey and a reference to each map published or in progress. List of Reports and Maps, ete. 2d edition. Washington: Government Printing Office, 188i. (8°, pp. 74. Revised edition of the preceding, with progress nap. Out of print.) Tables of Geographic Positions, Azimuths, and Distances, with Lists of Altitudes, Magnetic Declina- tions, aud Itineraries. (1883.) Washington: Government Printing Office, 1885. (Royal 8°, pp. 261.) Note.—Prior to the completion of the final reports of the survey the report by Captain Wheeler, commissioner, ete., on the Third International Geographical Congress and Exhibition, accompanied by facts concerning the principal Government land and marine surveys of the world, appeared as House Ex. Doc. No. 270, Forty-eighth Congress, second session (1 vol. 4°, pp. 556, with eleven maps and plates). Independently of the foregoing pablications, the direct requirement of the operations and results of the survey, the following Congressional documents bear on this work: 1. House Ex. Doc. No. 271, Forty-third Congress, first session. Extra cost for 1873. 2. House Ex. Doc. No, 240, Forty-third Congress, first session. (1874.) Special message of President Grant, transmitting reports on geographical and geological surveys west of the Mississippi. 3. Report No. 612, House of Representatives, Forty-third Congress, first session, (1874.) From Com- mittee on Public Lands regarding geographical and geological surveys west of the Mississippi. 4. House Ex. Doc. No, 32, Forty-third Congress, second session. (1874). ‘Printing report of Lien- tenant Wheeler’s expedition.” . House Ex. Doc. No. 109, Forty-third Congress, second session. ‘‘ Lieutenant Wheeler’s Geograph- ical Surveys,” inclosing complimentary letter of Field Marshal General, the Count von Moltke. 6. House Report 149, Forty-third Congress, second session. (1874.) Contains disclaimer of Yale College Faculty concerning geographical and geological surveys west of the Mississippi. 7. House Ex. Doc. No. 81, Forty-fifth Congress, second session, (1878.) Letter from Secretary of In- terior transmitting statement of Prof. F. V. Hayden, on geological and geographical surveys west of the Mississippi. 8. House Ex. Doc. No. 80, Forty-fifth Congress, second session. (1878.) Letter from Secretary of In- terior transmitting statement of J. W. Powell, on ‘“ geological and geographical surveys” west of Mississippi. House Ex. Doe. No. 88, Forty-fifth Congress, second session, (1878.) Letter from Secretary of War, transmitting statement by the Chief of Engineers on ‘Surveys by the War Department,” in- clusive, the geological exploration of the fortieth parallel, geographical surveys west of one hundredth meridian, and explorations and reconnaissances at headquarters military division and departments. (Contains list of publications. ) 10. House Mis. Doe. No. 55, Forty-fifth Congress, second session, (1878.) Testimony before Commit- tee on Public Lands, regarding a so-called geodetic system of subdivision for the Public Land Survey. 11. Views of the War Department concerning tbe public surveys of the Territories of the United States, being Appendix N N, Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers, 1878. 12. Senate Mis. Doe. No, 49, Forty-fifth Congress, third ssession. (1578). Report of a committee of the National Academy of Sciences, on the “Scientific Surveys of the Territories.” (House Mis. Doe. No. 5, Forty-fifth Congress, third session) is the same, with added communications from the Chief of Engineers, Commissioner of the General Land Office, and Messrs. Hayden and Powell.) on r=) 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. GE 20. SYNOPTICAL LIST OF REPORTS. COD Senate Ex. Doc. No. 21, Forty-fifth Congress, third session, parts 1 and 2. (1879). Information from War Department concerning surveys west of the Mississippi. Statement from Chief of Geographical Surveys, on extent, methods, cost, and cost of completion of those surveys, and views on report of a committee of the National Academy of Sciences, House Doc. No, 72, Forty-fifth Congress, third session. (1879.) Letter of J. W. Powell, on cost of geographical surveys. House Ex. Doc. No. 104, Forty-fifth Congress, third session. (1879). Statement regarding total cost of geographical surveys west of the one hundredth meridian. Senate Ex. Doc. No. 189, Forty-sixth Congress, second session. Letter of Secretary of War. Senate Ex. Doc. No. 118, Forty-sixth Congress, second session. (1880). Letter from Secretary of War presenting the importance of geographical and topographical surveys of the territory of the United States west of the Mississippi River. Senate Mis. Doc. No. 82, Forty-ninth Congress, first session, (1886). Testimony before the Joint Congressional Commission on Surveys. Senate Report No. 1285, parts 1 and 2, Forty-ninth Congress, first session. (1886.) Report of the Joint Commission on Surveys. The same appears as House Report No. 2740, Forty-niuth Congress, first session. Printed catalogues of maps, reports, and photographs exhibited at the Centennial, and also at the Third International Geographical Congress at Venice, 1881; includes principal publications at date of issue. SYNOPTICAL LIST OF MAPS. A.—TOPOGRAPHICAL ATLAS. I. Title. II. Legend sheet. III. Index map. IV. Basin map. V. Sheet of conventional signs, and the following atlas sheets: 39 00| 113 45 003 35 40 | 116 30 oo} 37 20/119 15 00 6 65 Parts of Southwestern California and South- western Nevada... 5. -.20..-e--0-050---- non uf 66 Parts of Southeastern California and South- western Nevada, Northwestern Arizona, 8 17, 588 Cy Ee WY 87 20/116 30 00 é 6 A Boundaries. a 3 Scale a 4 Locality. ot Area. Longitude Remarks. a 2 ran Latitude west I} cre north. | from Green- a 4 | wich. Miles.| Sq. miles. ee i CO 1 49 Parts of Eastern Nevada and Western Utah.- 8 16, 814 § 70) - a i aa Also in crayon. 2 50 Parts of Central and Western Utah ........- 8 16, 814 5 a - a i og Do. 3 0 3 57 Parts of Southwestern Nevada and Eastern ; 8 17, 209 § 37 20 | 116 30 aa Californiage--c--->-seseeo onto lene ocees 39 00) 119 15 00 4 58 Parts of Eastern and Southeastern Nevada 0 i 8} 17,209 j EXE TAD ONE) SS oe Also in crayon. and Southern Utah... .-..:---cecceccees.. = 39 00/116 30 00 2 5 || 59 | Southwestern Utah...--..:--..-.......-.....| 8 | 17/209 § EA Ee aot Also in crayon. and Southwestern Utah ...............----- 8 67 Parts of Northern Arizona and Southern 35 40; 110 00 00 37 20|113 45 00 35 40 | 105 30 00 37 20| 108 15 00 116 30 00 35 40| 119 15 00 34 00 | 111 00 00 35 40/113 45 00 34 00/108 15 00 35 40] 111 00 00 34 00 | 105 30 Be Also with land 35 40 | 108 15 00 classification. 32 20/108 15 00% 34 00) 111 00 00) 105 30 002) Also with land 34 00/108 15 00%| classification. 42 20] 112 22 me Do. 43 10| 113 45 00 9 69 Parts of Southern Colorado and Northern ING WwANIeXI COR sss nc)occccse ce satis a stelsincine s 10 73 Parts of Southern California ....-..-..-...--- 8 17, 952 ll 75 Parts of Central and Western Arizona .-.-.- 8 17, 952 Oar ee wo = i) — 12 76 Parts of Eastern Arizona and Western New ; IMGxiCOM== see eer temeci-aeeninal-inneceen=e a's 13 77 Central New Mexic0--2----------2---+ecs---- 8 17, 952 14 8&3 Parts of Eastern and Southern Arizona and p Western and Southwest: rn New Mexico --. 15 84 Part of Southern New Mexico..-.........- S58 8 18, 302 16 32:C | Parts of Southern Idaho.-...............----.- 4 4, 023 ee ee wo to ie) Ss 757 758 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN, Scale of 1) inch to— Miles 4 s| & a) 3 2 a | Locality. a o | | Ss | a| 4 ti 32D | Parts of Southeastern Idaho ............----- 18 38B_ Parts of Southern Oregon, Norihwestern Ne- | | vada, and Northeastern Califurnia ......--- 19 38D | Parts of Eastern California and Western Ne- | Rf Ul eco seem aceopooar once ee oncecedonase 20, 41A | Parts of Southeastern Idaho and Northwest- ern) Wtah pic .o-2 sie vic oe eae erece emeees : 21 41B | southeastern corner of Idaho and part of | Northern Utah: 222s. © - 5 49 84B | Part of Central New Mexico.......----------- 4 4, 554 | f 33, 10] 105 30 mt Do. (¢ 34 00 | 106 52 30 9 9 50 84C | Part of Southwestern New Mexico ...-.....-. 4 4,597 | f Ee a a i * } Do. | 760 U.S. GEOGRAPHICAL SURVEYS WEST OF 100TH MERIDIAN. B.—GEOLOGICAL ATLAS. I. Title. II. Index map. III. Map showing restored outline of Lake Bonneville. ° S a Boundaries. A ) Scale = a Tecali of 1 7 | A g a ocality. inch | 4Tea- ; | Longitude Remarks. a 2 eRe Latitude | west iS s north. | from Green- ao) < wich. Miles.) Sq. miles. cA ; af A ee PERE 1 50 Parts of Central and Western Utah...-.....-. 8 16,814 |§ * i : } EY SD | (40 40) 113 45 00 crayon. 9 58 ) Parts of Eastern Nevada and Western Utah - So seccaeee on ; SC ee fe) TU) Do. { party 39 00} 14 50 405 rage ~ 2 66 f Part of Southern Nevada.............--.--.- Bol eeaets ee § Ss Oh eet econ Do. | 37 20] 114 48 405 (part) \) | 37 2 0 3 59 Southwestern Wtalts-<. - 45 Annual production of gold and Bee ey Scuccocnasae ed 185 Agricultural products without irrigation........ ...-- 65, 66 Archean, .--..-- 82, 190, 238, 241, 243, 246, 248, 251, 253, 254, 257, 260, 261, 262, 269, 272, 275, 279, 282, 284, 285, 288, 290, 291, 297, 301, 306, 307, 310, 314, 322 Artesian water --91, 206, 275 Argentiferous galena ..... ... ...-. eisteletaivievslajaitistecl 8 O11 14, Acad SINS We Sy Milltaryncsccs) sane cieneastecdes sees 145, 270 Agricultural Bureau ...- . 145 Army Medical) Museum. .....--...-..---...0- Sonne kG ATid region 222 -.--/25< === --- 181, 227 ASD HAlGO Meni) ssa dsieocsnisanescicccesciceccicscne cc's 19 Agriculture- - 3 178, 297, 303, 315 Arable lands, Dencennee of esceaeeec 174, 283 ATLESIany Wella) --- ss o-eo0 «-. eeu - 181, 206, 207, 208 Atlas of the wholecountry, meme miitars topographic 229 ‘Abbreviationsiandisions. |4--c52.-assees se -ecesceccccee 356 PAMOrold readin Gwe eeee eee pesca cite 3 -- 359 and odometer reading...- - 360 profiles\(computations).--. 0... ce-cccecccese 394 PACKNO WEG BS MONS pee) etaes cosets oeccteicidssisincccce 7 Adjustment of angles Saocodse 371 Areas undergoing systematic Cannyaeanate survey..-. 424 Areas not undergoing systematic topographic survey.. 424 Page. Austria Military Geographical Institute ............. 445 topogr aphic surveys Of................... -.. 453 geologic examination of .................-.-.- 425 hydrographic survey of...........-....-..---- 76 Administration of land surveys .............---.-..--- 441 Authorities consulted in preparation of survey memoir 604 available for compilation of standard ofti- cial list of latitudes and longitudes west Of Miasissippic as -ccscesesteres ses e seco 650 Basins of the Colorado..... =} 29, 30, 58, 130 COBBU ce sae ence mceemece ws sioee eee ans 9,114 interior. .-... 9, 22, 30, 44, 110, 114 Sacramento. ... - 9,110, 114, 130 Columbiaist.ccocccice-cecceceneete cece 9,114 Miss0uricacs.coccsisceencneesceeweeer anes 9 Rio Grande. 9, 58, 77, 110, 114, 130 ATkK@nsasnocoscecsiccccteeee cet tena 9, 77, 130 9 : ) eeaeanceeaceeee 22, 58 sontOlereaeevccuciscissssesree -- 38, 39, 40, 43 OwensiRivercccsesssoaseass eee e eee eee 44 Salt! Lako mec. sectescccesece ace 58, 110, 114, 130 Green Gescs-tacscceecece== see eceeeee ees 58 Arkansas) ososccscceccoest een - 58,110 Gunnisons:.2.-cscccc -c~caccecseoeee 58, 77, 110 Chamattencacsacssocssiececee pent ee nee 7 Mu rabernen sees ecicceecce cata ttematete 77 77 103 BeawiRiversucnssccsccssescceceeceeretees 110 Snake River ... Sxepupcooog htt) Mohave...... scieccses) 114 Pecos. - Gila Base measurement . . BIpOka Oreste cect csissanp vise sci sscecice Barometer observation of Mount Whittney. Barometric altitudes - ...............- 357 height, astermination of 396 British Museums: 1-2. ccccae cece: - 512 Blankets, Navajo. .........-...- 69, 75 Box Canon 2-- sc.j-ceseene se oee == = 384 of latitudes and departures. 389 Conjecturai contours defined .........-..-..- 398 Correlative equations . ..... 381 Cadastral survey, definition of 416 Conventional signs and abbreviations ... ........... 397, 42 Coast and Geodetic Survey — Administration of mes. s-ceshe sce een oeeenion 475 Aid to commerce and navigation .........--...---- 479 Board of officers:on, in 1843 ..-..........-------se-. 479 Munctions of 2c22ccc. = --2- totszsccsem TOL Oniginvees=welesscece aaa ABTEO EA SBDROEA TE oEoR Ber 761 Organization -....-..- Ao BSACOneEnCO SpecoaASepcue 762 PRAMINISLEA WOM eet ee aces oscse csa ne eset 762 Functions....-.--. os Atma eenego nee coecmanbes is 762 seh ssc 659, 724, 726, 729 | SUBJECTS Page. Geographic REE surveys, etc.-- Continued. ARS CORVAANC COS ieee -enan olen alee ee inseam et OG Methods, progress, ‘om meena omocsentcsogeasaases 764 Glaciers/andimoraings a. asec) easel aes tomas 56 Garnot) beds: 225: J atscaeccesae cee nee eee ca ece eet eeseee 59, 60 64, 66, 298 313 reconnaissance ......---- 140 survey of United States. - 458 Geographic distribution of plants. - 308 Geodetic and topographic -. 349 computations - 371 co-ordinates .....--...- 385, 386 international association ---.-.-.----. --- 444 Geographic discovery, exploration, and survey, 1500 to 1 Dies Sa coonkoy Foon e Baar ead sone GS recto sSesba ese 483 Character of early expeditions.....-...----...---- 485 General Land Office surveys . ---23, 24, 37, 51, 59, 78, 90, 111, 115 General geographic results ..--.---..-- 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145, 146 | Great Britainand Ireland, Originoftopographicsurvey. 438 topographic surveys in-. ..443, 452 hydrographic surveys -.-- 471,475 Great Interior Basin ..-..--. 41, 43, 46, 55, 105, 197, 115, 122, 123, 199, 200, 239, 266, 268, 276, 291, 318 Grand) Ganonwessas--2 es secs elec ser ecee eterna Great Colorado plateau Greasewood (Obie). ssace= scn-=ncines'esto-= esa ‘Goldloress-neessene= === 79, 91, 93, 112, 160, 245, 261, 262, 271, 311 Granite beds, Colorado Cafion ....-...----.-----------. 165 Grazing areas without water. ....-...-.--.------------ 181 Great Salt Lake.....-.- 199, 200, 254 Great. American’Desert. <-<- 5). ca0= -aa= cis=-seiceime sine 264 Great Plains - asd — 274, 307 Geologists avail Gnemeclece of topographic maps as a WYSE, conacacention ae Shac epadasoasondécse 420 Germany, original German Btatent early surveys of. 439 topographic surveys in . ..--......- aso 443, 452 geologic examinations in. ...-.--------. --. 425 hydrographic survey of 476 | Great general staff of the Prussian army, its originand (NRE eSB eciececos comes s=boos HsasoscocescSe 444 General physical foatarenee -237, 239, 241, 244, 247, 219, 259, 255, 258, 260, 263, 266, 268, 270,274. 277, 281, 283, 286, 289,291, 295,300, 304, 307, 308, 311 Geographical positions grouped, form of --...--..----- 388 Geographer of the United States ........ -, 407. Geologic examinations and investigations... --..--.425, 426 Great final topographic map of the United States 437 Government surveys, hy drographic— Introduction . 468 istiolgena<<= 469 QUIS eres tae enw eleen=aninm=n ema elowmasascin es 470 Organizawonlesacss\scaen sleet a aeeean a aosesls nase oe 471 Administration - .....--...2.---2.-nseseen=s-eccnns 75 Functions...-- << ..--22-- scenes sce eceseceos- == 375 Geographical discovery and exploration west coast and INTOTIOD ea ee ee caer e eee ae te eee ep en caine 481 Geographic and geologic explorations and surveys -. 599 Geographical knowledge prior to the year 1500......-. 482 Geographical surveys west of the one hundredth me- SG IS SeeS a acpeDbsoodecaaccaees compos auccaooeso Kes 451 Geologic maps, their limited use as compared with to- DOraphiciMaps! eet ae ole woe w een enw wee ome 426 Government surveys— TOPOLTAPHIO arr isae mcte nice selena sloacinies/siciesiancasesises 416 768 Page Government surveys—Continued. Hydrographic or marine...........-.----.--0---2- 416 CadastraMor revenue: .---. 6... 262s) ssecscamescese 416 Nature of, determined by specified want .......-.. 417 Scope of, governed by the requirement of the Exec- utive Departments. ......-...----.----.. ------- 417 To be classified and administered according to ob- jects'sought <..2---22 <- 2-2. aan er eee eee 418 Reproductions from........-...--. eae cea ee seese ; 419 The measure::- 2-.-sess= 473,477 Invention and introduction of modified secant conic projection’. ...3---2.swescescccee ees seesesesciase nn aeee 139 Invention of personal equation apparatus. .. 140 Improvement in triangulation instruments. 140 MO) eee eR RCE ne Doe eo eeeceeiece ree aeotaass octadbelicn 91 Instruments:omployed =< o.5 a2. voce eeen esse saineap esse 333 Instruments used at main A stations ...........-..... 350 Instruments of the geologist. ......-2..2..-s5.cs---000 357 Indian tribes— Apaches, at Canada Alamosa. ....... Rene aaah saeadc 212 Shoshones.----._ <-<00s-2-ccecessmcescorseeceoe. 24, 34, 212 Gosi-Utes. cisn2. ccc snes sewesceusceeuaassmezecseee 24, 212 DUakes | cSere aceon cmos ter eeecaese cee soe eee 24, 212 Pal-Vants-ccncctcsceecenessansacaseamesecne 24, 51, 157, 212 Pah-Utes ....-.° 24, 34, 51, 96, 212 Chemiehueyis 222-50 o~aseceedeenncceeress= ose se 34, 96, 212 INDEX OF SUBJECTS. Page. | Indian tribes—Continued. Utes of Nevada and California ........ witeoneseee 34, 212 Seviches ..-........ -...34, 51, 212 Mohaves ... ... Apache Mohaves.....-....-.- 34, 96, 157, 212 soeoeee34, 45, 51, 212 ualapais era secmeed eet ona cermccaceerceeeses 34, 51, 212 Cosninos TONGS sasacae ee aon naan eee sae ee = nia ise staan LS) SSS S08 ase eecoconcaococaaoscosscuascd Mescaleros Arivapas --34, 212 Apaches ...2... ----- .-- 200 --- 202 ee ners --eeee---- es 34, 212 White Mountain ..-...... BonibdcaoncctAstioce Seneca 34 Coyotero Apaches. ..-.-....----0--+------ - -34, 212 White River Utes.---<....-..-2--.e.ncnne-- 47, 51, 212 IMOQUIBE as ece wes enene ase seems sree “2 49, 68, 212 Zunis 5 49, 68, 212 Uintah Utes - 51,212 avajos “59, 6s, 75, 212 Jemez 68 White Mountain Apaches 68 Uncompahgre Utes --.--- Muacho)-<-..se-ccee<- Capote -...--. Weenemuche Southern Utes. ucarillatec ete cen aos GEOR SRCE BEER OB Cnet bemSaceGor! Puebleo population... -..--. 2. .--.--sss0-ces-e recone 88, 212 Coast Range (Diegetios))------ <2 c2 -- sce cae 96 MIOMAB i cme a eaee aneatcae as mmeisninanatsoide emote 105, 212 alam athe oosice nine wie ewww vie sien sivas =e aeAGOEOC 118, 212 Modoos eae ose s snleism oan meeinelsine seine “lMlslelanivielcs mma 118 Snake cenciccscmsessecisecane -neilnl=mainie slatwaareiaiminiate 118 WiatihiSpMingsic-- cca amen sate m er men ee ieremenmee 212 Mission ference ects saan seme cetraclen eratelelee lesa aan 212 Bannocks'and'Snakes=-.-0-ss-s-es7-cececesn=mooe 212 Pimas and Maricopas .----- SECO CO SS CRDERCOSRHOEAG 212 Apaches Mim bresteenc-\ eee enjeeeeeceeeeee et ieen=aer 212 Introdutionis-ceosteene fe seeen see ses ae acieaaawea eee 9 Indians.......-.-.-------------- +220 concen cence eee e ee 34, 211 Navajos, Ante number ..-.-. 69 blanket wearing -- . 69,75 retributive justice... 70 Ouray, chief of Uncompahgre - 84 burial place). -.--.-.ssecse==|- 88 San Fernando Mission. 91 Colorado River Reservation 96 excavations near Santa Barbara ......---.----- 102 Bannock Reservation 2 Klamath Agency. ..-....-...-.-- dadeocasresaes Warm! Spring, A £enCy cc. ccreccicencass=nnessewe 118 population Klamath Agency in 1886....... --. 118 Asquit, captain of Mohaves ....-. ---..------ 156, 163 Mohaves on river trip, names of ......-------- 168 plan for enumeration. ....-.--..------------+++ 34 totalinumberiofi sc. ener eces neem cece esiaa aes 211 reservation areas per capita ....-...----------- 213 agencies, number of -...---- 214 increasing or decreasing ---.- 0 214 service, cost of .......--- : 215 wars, cost of - 216 DOMAadss- == so ooeleasaeesee snes 79 SRBC CEES E Re Ot ECHR On CAC atscocon seccksca 79, 89 aaa ee a feta esl feel lo iteee eee elt oterastos 29, 38, 39, 91 Saxony, oldest map of....... a=) 439, topographic surveys. - -445, 453 geologic examination . - 425 Secular dessication. .-.. --... ~ 83, 98, 102 Secondary triangulation stations. .....- -- 350 Standard interior topographic surveys - 424 Special exploration of the Colorado River. - 138 Solfataric action (Comstock lode)......--.. 325 Survey, the first general ............--.....- Soadsioate 331 Springs— PagOsGccccsrecccets ceectosceeccsececisccesiose 77, 80, 81 INDEX OF Page. Springs—Continued. Soda, at Morristown, Idaho ............-..------.- 113 Hot Springs, near Honey Lake.......-.....---.-.. 113 (hype psecs conde sHnodeseooo sa Scbemsssedbasce 117 RorlornsHOpelesacs ieee eceeence aatine senate ca ae 158 DSS V.GLAS) sence soem sion etesceescacseseceeecos 158 EERO XLOM eee setieiae ico 167, 169 TEER INS) Sacneagdue Goosd ssceqSeonboseseesadsed 169 Secondary astronomical stations ... 335 Sextant latitude stations --....... 5 335 astronomical observations . - 344 Springs, thermai and mineral --....----...--- 122 Surveyor-general of the Northwest Territory - 407 Sutiot, thepRio.Grande!--.---.--2o> secon ences. 288 South stars...... ....- : 343 Sweden, first map of .-.... sien, 440 topographic surveys - -. 448, 456 hydrographic surveys. ..-....-.------ ---474, 477 Switzerland, topographic survey commenced -. -- 440 topographic surveys.-.-....---.--- - - 447, 454 Smithsonian Institution.........-..--. wo eee e-D7, 144, 145 Systematic map compilations should be prosecuted... 745 Tertiary ..-..-. 82, 92, 187, 207, 238, 243, 246, 253, 254, 259, 261, 262, 269, 273, 273, 284, 285, 288, 29%, 206, 307, 323, 670 Temperature of earth’s crust ..:......----. -----.---- 209 | Thermal and mineral springs - .26, 47, 7, 78, 80, 84, 106, 113, 122 discovered..... ..---.--. 141 Manitougeesessasmeeeci= ats 84 ViasiViesaste-ses sess seene 84 POMOZieas ne sence teenie 84 ADIQUecsee se enaemen eee 84 Timber, protection of...-....---5..---------s0----05 51 MhrSe-POMt StavlONs so neccee ces cwcicle esis wes eee se eae 351 Tabulated list of reports and maps (Powell) .---.--..-. 718 GMeGYd NVI saeocceecosuc neSeeouSacocnd= sobs, Ba= ausana 72, 269 METIASSIC to =< 2 82, 238, 246, 248, 253, 254, 257, 259, 260, 262, 269, 270, 276, 282, 284, 297, 301, 302, 310 ODOLTADUY esr sense waceeci er earecee ene ne == setae 138 Topographic and hydrographic survey of Great Salt WIG, ~shceeenoaosocoEseaseanca SccUScosDASoTSaEerEsS 198 BRIM GIS LATS pee ene eee ene ase sac oataa sania 342 Tabulated list of reports and maps (United States geo- PaO MOREE) Soccterosesace dSsbs Sn5 256566 Sachs 692 Timber. . .24, 28, 36, 38, 39, 47, 49, 50, 60, 62, 63, 65, 68, 73, 79, 85, 86, 100, 119, 179, 297, 303 Mim bers POM aWONs sa totes e ea eeneeceance< omc 95, 104, 179 Pri Des pLndiane acu scence a aae Cannel en sesen 24 Time observations ...-...--..--.---2-----.s0--- 337 by single altitude. . 367 equal altitudes ................. 368 SUBJECTS. Topographical Engineers, U.S. Army Topographic ........-. SS pGOCOOOSS meander stations maps as a base, used by the geologist.. 420 onoeralsmsesiObs nasa eceecieenone 420 military uses paramount..-.....-. 422 necessity for, developed........... 419 indispensable to Government ...-. 421 classificationiof-=.------sceeseeee 421 survey, term defined........... -.--.---. 418 | distinct from cadastral surveys. 419 frame-work of all geography... 419 iUippen.Cretaccouse-s--5y-ssece-¢ sees s eee cen cee : 187 United States general topographic atlas of ...-....... 481 Generaltiand!Office:-=- -.o-. ees. ee 408 geographic surveys west of one hun- dredth meridian ............... meee 451 Geological Survey of the Territories -. 451 -Rocky Mountains. 451 geological exploration of fortieth par- Bel Fasc eeesces toes Seas 451 origin of topographic surveys in. - 441 survey of Northern Lakes - 451 Wserohhachuresymsaciete=i-ceeh ele fet sai 2 5 eee | Volcano Springs - -- 5 47 Vocabularies 57 113 | 113 | 113 113 | and velocity of Colorado River at Camp Mo- LEK) Aoshnogeecenp Scenics Se eoemeece sr 169 | discharge at Stone’s Ferry.-...---------- - 169 AVOlEMOS TQUALtO meen emccceneciees te seein == scmeaae se 22 Walmin ctonilanrbortesecssncee sian sissies see se as 92 Western rim of great interior basin defined ..-....-.. 123 Walnut, black (Juglans rupestris var. Major) ..-.------ 68 | (Juglans Californica) .--..-. ---+------ 73 Washoe mining region) -~-- << (eso -0-nn- 5 ceenes oeea= 322 Wurtemberg, first known map of 439 topographic surveys in ...- o2 2220 445, 453 White, State Mineralogist, Nevada......-.........---- 29 Yosemite Valley— Special list of altitudes of points of interest in and CSOT ROAD a ea rpereoorcoces coca 131, 132, 183, 134, 320 Condensed table of distances in, ‘'D” .. 22135136 Zones of vegetation ene 12,03 Zuni grant ...-.-..----- -- 61 traditions. -..... <= 61 Zenith telescopeilisti-s-ce-esseecea-sessse--ee-s-e-~=6 340 INDEX OF NAMES. Page. Abert, Lieut. James W...- ~ 521, 557, 558, 560, 561 Abert, (Col. Jodi: - eas asst. 80, 84, 88, 89, 141, 142, 673, 748, 749 ‘Cowles: william) Arcee eas-s-se eee 97, 99, 101, 673, 677, 681, 683 ConsakweRernandovecssmecsass cis ccmes rete sae eee! 154, 493 Coxtony Cap taints acsenme cancels aa cere a asteeieeetaria oa 491 Cortez, Father Jacinto 491 Colhoun, James C ... Coronado, Vasquez de . 157, 489 CookmCaptainkes-ooe noes e eee eae eae ene e eee eats 494 Costas Reve Bi .ide\—s6= Curtis, Dr. Josiah sas Davisveror GeorroeWameatacss-eeceercsacsscercas sams Davidson Prot: GCorges- sees. --canteecsece as -sceesece David Ofte esses ce see ei oc Dan3a,jh.iS <5 s5 Daly, Charles P- DAV O78. 0 peeen aa aeieeeree conan on ceaeeecansae DavisnGe LD pases soc asec scmsemsawn = ners = eSea cease 774 Page. Darling, Ehud. N....-....-- Hoboasocuneantanocesagbo] 723 D’Auteroche. --...- Derby, Lieut. G. H........... De Sotoset==>=22 5555 -Fo = 559 | Humboldt, Baron Alexander de 521-529, 530 Humphreys, Capt. A. A....-. 515-517, 575, 605, 606, 609, 610, 611 Humphreys, General A.A .......--..-------- 32, 653, 659, 661 joa sont se on sete eee ne eee l= eee sans 615 EPC Pen ge ON Nyaa eee ele ae sere elon seeniowe ese ne= == 723 | Ibatiez de Ibero, Field Marshal Charles .--..--..----- 442, 448 Ti ao) segs rac stao no AES Se ROC OUS SSSA SOE Hns SAoSeS 492 Ingraham ..--. 495 Ingraham, E ..- 587 Ingalls, Capt. Rufas 589 Birwgiiied ODN GW § Geeta een sees ences ccaccossecenas 691 UsiPersollMineste--csssesananaaanaoeccee=sceresasesms 705, 706 Pavan VV ASHIN ELON [osc esiedaascivena=-esa== sess —=ninn 542, 544 TRA 58 865 eon “ago Se OSB SO SESE EEE So emerson 491 Ives, Lieut. J. C. - 595, 608, 609 James, R. W ----- 151, 168 James, Prof. W. E =a SAMeC ele eee ease ae ccelanseaaeaacar arash cenea== 152, 72: Jackson, Helen Hunt He James, Dr. E 531 James, Prof. Thomas P 749 lad 776 Jaquette, Surgeon sayCox, Lhomas, Wo. cse-ceson-- Jackson, W. H dagiello, Edward! 2c.c2s. 151, 587, 643 Patrick, W. F .-..--.----- 0-00 ------ 2-27-22 222 tree eee 719 Parke, Lieut. J.G ...--...------- 571, 572, 582, 583, 594, 615, 618 Parke; DT. HL . 2. <5 ns onan nnn en sn --- eee nennrennsee- 581 Parker, Dr. Samuel. 597 Patterson, Carlile P 735 Peabody, R. V.--- 615 | Perry, JoD)..--.----cecccnnneeecenonnn- =e -cescenneno==2 151 Peter the Great .....--....---20----00 -----2-2+--- 441 Peale, Dr. T. R .-.-- 531 Perrier, Colonel ..- 442 Perea tees ce oetee cece cece aeaspest en cammes-vaniders.2.561, 576 Stanton, Capt. W.S .-. Sterling, Dr. E....... Stoneman, Lieut. G -- Sits (Cb AY 6 con oanposceseconibe Jcoacoccdaoosese eos Sullivanserofessoresseeeeereseraomec/sieit-paienseiocasscis Swift; Cadetiand)|Mieut. WH. secs ccs cessncne seca 531, 532 Sywilerti lem base Me wets aisteete lasts ale clalstatems/e=tagelataie sta == 649 Suckley, Dr. George-.- be careacas 576 Symons, Lieut. Thos. W. ae --113, 118, 680, 683, 686 | Synd ——..........---.. Bocacbtceascecnssessese 492 | GERD. sscocemcedsqoa seco cHsUeR IEC HSe eeabocensdoceacs 492 | BRE RL 0 8 Oe oe Coo pisnloce gen Ap ENCES EEE ane mAs EOOCES 609 | RA yVlOTeG CNOLa le se emtelsic cl ctaslecleisfo cela a eieial-ia=s=m=mn wie ole 551 | Talbot, Theodore ....-...--.---.---+-----22--2---2---- 557 | Taplin, C.L---.. 582 | Taggart, W.R. . 703, 704 | Taylor, John. 175 | RCHINIKO fame eeeee sete ee aac sae ae enn ce estom me 492 Merry, BricnGens Aa Mi oo. aceenesenen-= = onneerse 648 HOM eV Maser epee iisane cls omic eo cere ac cleee c= 47 EDIT beLtieeroressOL-eearise ae oe sasscis me cloacae == - 609 Thompson, Lieut. R. E -.........-.--2----------------- 649 Thom, Lieut. and Capt. G . 585, 588, 614 | 779 Page. Mhompsony Davidiswe-ceenseeess ceases cess oe memes - 597 Thompson, Gilbert . a EES ss 74, 77, 352, 378, 388, 359, 666, 669, 673, 677, 681, 683, 687, 691 HOM SON PAC A ater a eslata a iateta taste iemietstaiete inicio sto 714, 715, 716 Mhomash Prot Cyrust. oe. seee-eses rane e eae 700, 701, 749 YU A aI kro th MiP grcr neipoocshas peSceSsasccnceeses asd 730 Ripton; LAeuten ant ete e cae secs amaise sale ames ser . -608, 609 Tillinghast, Captain.