Ft PED OF AAG Pe Rey ent et hae Dod sk pessart oh ote é S ‘ : Cesmetareeasmene tale Seerenies tre take iter ee ae eer ae vias ee fees eat tl ere te) Soe my Lf ~ Residential Sites and Environments PRESS OF A. T. DELA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, LTD. NEW YORK. oo ha . 2 Ra hae Peer NTTAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS iideik CONVENIENCES, GARDENS,. PARKS, PEA NTING ETC. BY baat FORSYTH JOHNSON, F.R.H.S. CONSULTING LANDSCAPE GARDENER AND GARDEN ARCHITECT AUTHOR OF “NATURAL PRINCIPLES OF LANDSCAPE GARDENING ” NEW YORK A. T. DELAMARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. LTD NOS. 2 TO 8 DUANE STREET Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1898, by JOSEPH FORSYTH JOHNSON ~ in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington ; sabe 7158 Entered at Stationers’ Hall, London, England - . - c 4 w. 2 « All Rights Reserved e « rd z , - : —> ‘ idee at fle need a ! et “a ’ any t ® -_J 2 ee | 3 i > BS a ae oe? r a el Fie < _ a . . ee ae ad My Ps noe PREFACE: HIS world abounds in beauty and light, and Nature yields an everlasting inspiration which is to be gained only by true admiration of herself in all her moods. The existence of plants, their structure, and their growth, serve to demonstrate their development, but satisfaction is not given to our sense of pleasure from the mere sight of plant beauty unless we have the ability to contemplate the specific character of each plant observed. ‘‘God has introduced man to be a spectator’’ said Epictetus. In our Parks and Gardens, for instance, you may walk a mile and not see a single example of natural growth of either tree or shrub, although you will pass hundreds of both, but bundled together so that it is not possible to distinguish the beauty of one individual plant from another. This is destruction, not development, of plant life, yet it is dangerous to point out these facts, for some writer, belonging to a powerful news- paper, will cry out ‘‘This means destruction to our Parks and Gardens, with vistas, etc.’’ —as if we could see behind brick walls! Destruction is not good, and the calling of bad things good makes them much worse than calling such truly by their proper terms. In our Parks and Gardens, age has established growths of trees which none would wish to touch, for the effect of years cannot be gained in a day, nevertheless the defects of a faulty arrangement should be made known, so that new land to be developed shall not go on in perpetual repetitions of the same faults. The belts of ‘‘ Capability Brown ’”’ are things of the past. We show in the following pages how to treat boundaries of public parks, as well as their interiors. In the would-be arrangements of a residential environment there is often much effort made that is opposed to Nature. It is hurtful to true admiration. In this work, the object is to move the mind to the best of things, so that by labor helping Nature, unthought-of great results will come forth. J The majority of the plans given in the following pages are reproductions of what have been put into effect; many have been executed specially tor this volume, and for the use of some of the blocks | have to thank the proprietors of AMERICAN GARDENING, and also for permission to utilize certain passages from that paper. In placing the manuscript of this work in the press, | thank Mr. Leonard Bgrron, F. R. H. S., Editor of AMERICAN GARDENING, very sincerely for his valuable assistance. ; Jp 8s de TABLE OF CONTENTS PART I THE RESIDENTIAL SITE Page Tintraduction:» 6.7. ee sa) es calhe Seurt. nik Cee mee treat Cee ae ne a 9 The Residential Site Pee Ay cheer | AT Sa eR BOCES chet Sorin 86.0 4 13 Biverto BortyyAcresaa ccs co Sr iere xe chp SAN I ee ec ea 16 Model Home! Ground sac (eco ie Se te ce en le’ eri ae 20 Thinning Ontavoodlandscags 25s eu. Gis 5 hrepee dele ane ate eee 28 The. Parke Hames Nosi: Sta. teege aoe ce | ok es ee Oe ee ee ae 31 ‘The: ParkHomesNo, 20s) ca Gh a so Set ee ee tee ae on ne ee eo 33 Beauties‘oiPlant Wifess2 ~ Sas is, 500 coe ete sed es Se re 37 Special! Effectiot: DreessandpshnubSe ss @ asa. ear eee ciel cleat etme meas 43 Special Effect of Gameting Plants. -a 0.02020 ay cee ee 5) RAL PART II PLANTING AND INTRODUCTION TO UNDULATIONS Planting 75 =. 25% tec Sig pc) Spo eke) Cte en Oe op ee ee ee 40- ‘iransplantin® lrees-and’Large Plants, «amass eel: avercescl coin aie einen mea 5.6 *t eee GS Locating Entrance: Roadways) se. (0-02 ane ene ae ee 99 A Villa Plots. 35352128.) ee. DS ee eet ee enone oe eS 100 The Terrace:Effectcis,b. &) ASemummeeess tute ligt ie =u RCA gM ire eg Sao 102 PlantinsaVery SmallGardeny. 2 hee c= ee) eee) ope 9 104 Making the Mostofithe)Backy =) -.)02) su-0ren senate whee aes Cah ree a ee 108 A Down'Square.s se 3 sbeisk ee Sse ee se ae IIo INDEX*’ «as? ee 8 ee ee ee ee 115 LiSE OF WLEUSTRATIONS Page Bointeormmesidentialvsite sScaleroim alte mee nes. cy saiee ose) ee So eccts Rte 5 6) oe nie 13 Terracing, Showing Arrangement of Ground for House Foundations ......... 14 This REAR S. “St om bate to Se ne Saat Cun) Iolite ats eee ee eal 15 shoomDecepiejantinge pacman ke a ay a ees eats call cc Dc eees be eanee tee 50 (Gormecablantino mews NN: to eo, Cee we, case mts s =) ae ete, aD oh 50 EiaccatO Mi Caee nee eae home ora tca ret. coh Bey hon GTR Sos ds TS: etal tt Career eee 50 Good aneS ad el anting mean, itera eee cy ek Ee. Sc ap spy Se eae 52 Nivonmhaye aes INES, tek nd eo Doe wis be 'g) capo soe taae scuisetoingy ace See Gece pecan 54 Radaiciss nome wearer Me earn? he ectreicc ee td noms. Goneiis, Stace yee Paley. s1oes Us 55 Nattira asst lantin ciara mere) s fyes) oe ale S etganher aut ats. (a) eee) bate Chase oe 55 DevclopmenviomOutlineses Maas.) 2 ees) een secre ee Re cece co Pele eee 57 Biantineiais Cpe mee ce em ee cache Siac name ot cue Ra ae yds san Sy) ih) 65 Rockeries’:) =) .°- ..--: SE PMS Sore EO ae ae cae ne ey 73; 743 75 How to Grade fora’ Terrace-> =. 2 2. ) a Sito? BE ee ee eee 103 PLANS No Page IAM OMATTATOCINCHG Oak ua Raa late Goctae ge Se ce oer = ee chee te 16 o-eGaod Atraneement, Broad WiewS | =. 2 + = < G5 = 2 6 = Sia ee Es 17, se GoodvAtrangement, long Views, 02.465 = SG 2 v4 5 sy = = - Pan ails) woe Wiatersidesbroperty, One VAEWS <=. = = ssa --02 es 2S 2 2 yt 19 Pa orev OmenGround ras c rr. fear bescsc> seers tres eel es 26 6. Forming a Homestead from Woodlands and Thickets. ...--..-.--- ; 29 7. A Park Home andits Environments, Nor ...------++-+-+-:-: toface 32 8. Park: Home and its Environments, No.2): ..- .. = .- - 22) bee Re = = 35 6, | Groupins: Various: Forms into armony, 3. © = = 2 =< 20 ee 59 KRevatore lan NOW n sas Oa tec Be tics Teed eee ness See a ene ay Scene omssil ore 61 ro. Grouping Trees Together in Planting ..-.-- +... +--++5+-+=- 64 11. The Herbaceous Border for Public Gardens and Parks .......--..-.--. 67 12, Arrangement for Perpetual Effect, Combining Natural and Formal Stylest asec ow a7 1 eee AAC Tate anduboreGardeny sare heer scr cu fe ny ae ales ueae - 79 14. The Water Garden, Margined with Hemlocks ...---.--+-++++++:: 81 iS “Wine Neral GET e omen oe oe ols cia oee Beoen Biber 5 coma: bec 85 Tos BadeArransement of Corner (lots o2 0s uss ee = Geen = ee rk 89 17. Good Arrangement of Corner Lots ...-.----+-++ +++ s+se2- ol LOGE E-AneANGANVIALEENETLCCE: fp coca San ey is) ict ve el: chee qel feces, ey eer toskeute wucen, felmopte 93 nop A Soutien Gack (5 3% 226": 2 or ipreqc 0 oureceree ooo) S aso u aeooc 96 20, Ornamental Planting of a Church or Hall Front ---.-..-:----+--- 98 21. Home Grounds, Illustrating Location of Roadways .-..- +--+ +++: 99 PoMmARVillat lotus on aa Ro oh ree eres rey eer Sage ele ae be es IOI Ago.) WTAE oo gene ay ess Bodie ec) oe Coe es Loa hee chm) er Mice ce 102 24. A Very Small Garden, Temporarily using Adjoining Lot .-..-.--..--.- 105 pave Making the Mostotthe Back) 972 2-0). 6 2G ye ee eee 2 oe 109 26. A Town Square, Showing Development of Building Plans. .-....-----. III PART | RESIDENTIAL ENVIRONMENTS INTRODUCTION HE art of landscape development is second to none in its grateful effects upon home comfort, and “ its comparatively recent introduction is the only reason which might be advanced for placing it in a secondary position. It is the genius of man which has seized upon the life of the earth and pressed it into service for man’s development: the higher intuition of the present age aspires to more aesthetic surroundings. Through all times we find traces of an aim after these natural impresses in what is called ancient gardening, but, by examining the evidences of this past work, we find that all these attempts did more to destroy the life of beauty than to bring forth its developments, for ancient gardening was more or less the development of limitations, and it is the modern artists (authors and men of deeds) who have progressed towards the ‘‘infinite’’ of landscapes, and thereby have made the earth’s beauty a first (if not the first) item of importance. ‘*The smile of mankind is but what is caught from Nature,” Lord Lytton said. ‘‘In life the truth is not what we gain but what we do; it is not what we receive but what we give.” Landscape gardening is the art of developing land to meet human requirements, by displaying the characters of plants adapted to buildings, sky, land and water, as the circumstances demand, arranging this life (plant life) to move the human emotions into the harmonies of infinitude; for emotion is life; impressions sway emotions; the beauties of Nature to the true admirer are more varied than the tones of music to the ear, more minute than the microscope can explain, yet more impressive to the sight than the mountains. Beauty gives motive to our inner life, to our being. Impressions are unfathomable in their benefits, perpetual and illimitable in their action, and infinite in their results. To reveal this to humanity is true development. To produce natural effects is far better art, more easy, and much less expensive than to endeavor to create weak fanciful effects of limitations. The ground in the immediate neighborhood of residences (as well as buildings appertaining) requires a particular adjustment, not only that it may subserve all necessary purposes, but likewise that it may yield its fitting quota of embellishment to the general scene. It must first be our study to have the essentials of a residence so placed as not to interfere with each other, and the arrangements of the surrounding lands must harmonize with the outlines of the mansion, so that each part is complete in itself, still uniting naturally with the others to form a perfect whole. Our efforts in this way will at first be in the direction of the surfaces, straight and curved, formal outlines, and strong colors; these gradually blending, by means of intermediate forms and hues, with the natural undula- tions, so that whether we view the landscape from the window, or, sallying out, survey the house and its surroundings, the impression on the mind will be soothing and agreeable, though in different degrees from different points. Houses, as a general rule, are built too much alike, but we may always contrive that their environments shall exhibit each its own special arrangement, and be in harmony with the surrounding landscape. 10 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS Home scenery, so to speak, rarely has full justice done it. ‘The ground near the house may be rightly treated, but the natural outlines beyond will often be either forgotten, or else permitted to assume an almost wild aspect while yet in contiguity to the formal garden and mansion itself; instead of which the edifice should form a jewel of which the scenery in the immediate surrounding is the setting; in short a portrait to which it is as the drapery. In selection of a site there are a few cardinal points demanding attention: The depression of the valley must be avoided on account of dampness, stagnant air, and want of prospect. Some elevated mound, or small hill, high enough to command the distant view, yet not too high for easy approach, and surrounded within easy distance by foliage, will afford the greatest combination of natural advantages to each side; and a house so seated will form an agreeable object when looked upon from a distance, as it neither falls below the horizon nor rudely breaks the sky-line. The various items that go to make up a home scene will depend much on circumstances, The sunlight is fraught with such numberless advantages that an abundant supply of it will prove one of our very best coadjutors. In sections where the surface is level, no attempt should be made to imitate mountain scenery. A level country has a beauty of its own, and this demands a character of treatment very different indeed from that which we should think it expedient to adopt in a district of rocks and hills. In other respects, our outlines should be gracefully bold and sweeping, and the lines of planting on the whole in accordance. with the general curvature of the soil. Occasionally, also, it may be found desirable to alter the natural lay of the land, as by forming miniature valleys, raising small hills, making breaks and curves to conceal objects that do not harmonize with the scene. These alterations are also some- times necessary to bring into harmony of action a graceful union of distant views, and also occasionally for development of vegetation. Such diversification will also afford proper facilities for planting ever- greens and deciduous shrubs, many of which do not now meet with the attention their beauty deserves. It will be found desirable, too, that the natural contour of the soil itself should be made to yield assistance to development. Sometimes high ground in the vicinity of a house, as in cases where it intercepts the view, or is otherwise out of place, requires to be lowered. But this operation is rarely necessary; rising ground, especially in a level country, being extremely valuable with regard to the introduction of graceful curves. Close around the house itself, however, level ground must be had, forming a plaza or plateau of a size that will be in proportion with the house. But it is inherent in man ever to long for that which he does not possess, and therefore it is that we occasionally witness attempts to realize level scenery in mountainous districts, and vice versa. Alterations, however, are not invariably improvements, and when the feeling of novelty begins to wear off more reasonable views concerning the matter succeed, and the mistake becomes apparent. Every effort must have an object. The labor and cost of removing soil are items which cannot be overlooked, more especially where alterations have to be made on a large scale. Notwithstanding this, however, it is surprising how much can be done at moderate cost by judicious management, and by once removing each spadeful of soil into its proper place. Thus six inches of soil taken from the lower and added to the higher level, can be made to raise the latter one foot or even more, over the other. So again, we may further impart an apparent greater elevation by planting the ground with vege- tation of suitable form and color. The forms and conditions of soil are matters very closely connected with all land development, and must become the subject of frequent consideration when such work is in question. Land, in order to be beautiful, needs to have more or less undulation, and in truth, it is rarely found to be quite level, unless when it is rendered so by the busy hand of man. Undulations, when RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS ital absent from the land, may be developed by the correct planting of trees and shrubs, and not necessarily by the upheaval of the earth’s surface. In studying the natural undulations of the soil, requirements of drainage and the service to which whatever water supply that may be found on the place can be put, are matters of the very greatest moment, and must be considered. We should also pay special attention to note elevations and low lands. Thus, in the laying out of ornamental grounds, great advantage will often accrue by, as it were, assisting Nature and causing the new undulations to harmonize with the existing curvature of the soil. When properly managed, and when we have to deal with a dry subsoil, it is not so costly a matter as might be imagined to raise the ground some six feet or so. The elevation, however, should be effected in a natural manner, and generally by easy and almost imperceptible gradations. The proper elevation of the soil will vary according to circumstances, and likewise according to the demands of the plants meant to occupy it. Ground is raised to gain soil for the planting and to provide elevation for the effects. This is seldom required on a large scale, but it is often found requisite in order to conceal what otherwise might prove an eyesore, or to turn an objectionable feature, such as a stable, a back entrance, or kitchen door, into a pleasing one. In home ground scenery—as indeed in all other—the lines of sight must receive due consideration ; a tree or two may, as it were, break away from the more general masses, so as to impart interchanging effects of light and shade, and increase the diversity. In our endeavor to assimilate distant views and expanses with those more immediately contiguous to the dwelling house, it will often prove of excellent service to use plants that may occupy an inter- mediate position, so to speak, between the artistic portion of the landscape and the natural undulations beyond, as well as to have something in common with both. For example, Juniperus communis hibernica, by its columnar character of growth, will be quitein keeping with the formal outlines of the middle line of sight belonging to a mansion, while its silvery hues will harmonize well with specimens of Pinus excelsa at a greater distance. As respects carpeting plants and shrubs, these should receive full development in the foreground. Shrubs, indeed, when properly handled, produce very successful results near a dwelling. As they do not rise above twenty feet, they can thus be brought nearer than many trees, and by their graceful forms and bright colors serve to enlighten the scene. Each of our plants should display a certain fitness and harmony with its surroundings. There should, if I may so express myself, be no merely heaped-up mass of vegetation. Whenever possible, each beautiful feature that a plant possesses, should be displayed with loving care. It requires, no doubt, considerable space to do full justice to all the various characters of available trees and shrubs; still we have city parks, residential manors, and private gardens in abundance, where the more hardy species may have ample room allotted to them. The boundaries of our home scenery, by means of suitable plantings, may, with great propriety, be made to assume much of the irregularity of natural outlines, every advantage being taken of any recesses that may exist, so that no limitations of boundaries shall appear from the residence. Vegetation in newly-planted places will require attention as it progresses, growths used for present effects requiring to be removed as others of more permanent nature attain development. Ifa plot of ground be properly laid out it will be impossible for the owner, if he be a person of any good taste, ever to become tired of it; for here indeed each year would add afresh beauty and develop characters unseen before, and the pleasure of arranging them to best advantage is great. As Repton so well remarks: ‘‘ The most valuable lesson now left me to communicate is this: I am con- vinced that the delight I have always taken in landscapes and gardens, without any reference to their quantity or appropriation, or without caring whether they are forests or rosaries, or whether they were palaces, villas, or cottages, while I had leave to admire their beauties, and even to direct 12 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS their improvement, has been the chief source of that large portion of happiness which I have enjoyed through life.’’ The work that can be done on a given piece of ground has, of course, its limitations; there should be no attempt in a villa garden to imitate the grounds of a palace, and, generally speaking, in villa effects the house should, so to say, be subservient to Nature, not dominating. In arranging the surroundings of a residence, it would be unreasonable to expect that the front entrance or back offices, or even the flower garden, should occupy nearly all the ground about the place. Yet often it happens that an undue amount of surface is taken up with one or the other; instead of this, each feature should receive fitting attention and be developed in accordance with its true proportion. ie one SO NEAL SIEE N the selection of a site for a residence it is of importance to pay proper attention to the essential | features of the future building in order to display them to the best advantage. The residence must be given a certain prominence and, as it were, should be raised up from the surrounding land; therefore fairly high ground, as a small hill or even mound, should be selected. Every consid- eration should be duly and carefully weighed, and no mere fatuous likes or dislikes of the moment, the results of first impressions, should be allowed to influence the decision, SLAG 1) Goop aR Re Bao. x The pocnts ofr € ea BAO. An 2 / ling Jile tov a O34 WS PPn seed ope a: 2™| DRY FOUNDATION oT BAD nw 3” | SUFFICIENT WATER SUPPLY & 4“ |SEWAGE EXITS sone 4 S” DRAINAGE or ENVIRONMENTS G Access worsry, SW. uv m o m ” 4 ¢ 7 \ADJOINMENTS oF OBSERVATION. Faony ste orm Datos PadsPect. MELE PROM PRINCIMaL. HIGHEST GRouNo. fomr Oimeerion BREADTH, laoun OARIES,y mumaee | Lowest GRouno be Ths Scale of Value. Points for Residential Site In order to simplify the argument, it is well to examine the accompanying diagram of the Points of Value (seediagram). There are eight chief points of the compass; each one has its advantages or disadvantages as the aspect of a residence, and their values must be carefully weighed. Then there are seven requirements to be considered from a hygienic view, these are imperative, and take precedence over prospect or aspect, which in turn must have attention. The accompanying schedule is sufficiently explanatory, and a careful study of the Points of Value shown in diagram, if taken in the preliminary stage, will avoid future disappointments, and prove a great saving in expense. Locality will vary the value of points, to which due allowance should be given, but every living room should receive the benefit of sunshine. To judge the value of your scenes, in reference to prospect, do not be guided by whims or fancies, which may prove misleading, but weigh well ultimate results. The diagram marked B is a form on which the different values may be recorded; it affords nine valutions to each picture or prospect, and through its use one may better judge that particular one which will produce the most satisfactory results. 14 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS THE BASE OF THE SRESIDENCE A site duly selected in consideration of the Points of Value just enumerated will naturally afford facilities for the setting of the residence on a suitable base. The setting of a house will vary according to the situation and circumstances; a building which is to be used as a residence should be so disposed on the ground as to be in harmony with its surroundings, and if this be not accomplished it matters not how expensive or elaborate a building it may be, the owner can never derive from its contempla- tion that sense of satisfaction and content which it is only proper should be afforded by a country home. A building often seems to be disappearing into the ground, an impression produced in the mind of the beholder simply by its lack of base—by being placed too low in the ground. Very costly buildings often lack this seat on the ground, because the base, although provided, is not large enough in proportion to the size of the whole with regard to the natural features of the land. It is feasible enough to make a building plan in an office, but the proper suiting of the residence to the contour of the langycannot be done in the same way. For best effects, then, a building must ‘‘sit’’ on the land, and the plans should be prepared with a live appreciation of the features of the latter. In no country residence should the offices be placed under the living rooms nor above them; neither should they be separated from the house they have to serve, but should always form an integral part of the general assemblage of buildings, thus giving an impression of dignity and solidity. A mansion with all its outbuildings and appurtenances, an entity in the quiet repose of Nature’s own surroundings, creates a far deeper and more satisfying feeling than is ever possible to be found in one of the hotel-looking class, no matter what its size may be, for in it is evidence of comfort and ample accommodation for the requirements of a life of repose amid surroundings of taste. Servants’ apartments attached to a mansion should properly form an important part in the view of the buildings, but it is seldom necessary that their ground floor be on the same level as that of the chief building, thus the connection of the kitchen and dining hall can go under the entrance hall of the principal building, the kitchen to be, say, two feet above the ground level and the dwelling rooms four feet six inches. The roadway to the principal entrance can be raised cheaply, so as to reduce the steps of the entrance to an easy gradient, for, in excavating for the foundation of the mansion, the soil thus removed can be thrown up to form a roadway on the top of the original land, and this, at the same time, can be harmonized with the architectural features of the building, and worked, also, to suit the contour of the surrounding ground. If, at the beginning, the house be fixed at too low a level the trouble of subsequent adjustment to gain proper effect commences with the first spadeful of earth removed, and continues to the end. The house stands 4 feet 6 inches above the general ground level; the garden terrace 2 feet 6 inches, the house terrace 4 feet 4 inches. These figures vary according to circumstances. WN) House Leve/ _Y¥ C-iginal Ground Level ~ — 27711 Cellar Home Terrace Terrace Gardens Terracing—Showing Arrangement of Ground for House Foundations Terraces have been for ages past an important factor in the setting of buildings. They are powerful for good or for ill effects; they are, indeed, to the beauty of buildings like fire and water in RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 15 Nature: they perfect the whole or destroy it. It is impossible to make a terrace without consideration of all the other surrounding features of the landscape; its size and the proportion of its curvatures can only be determined by one who is on the site and sees with an eye that can mentally construct the different masses in their comparative relation the one to the other. The principle of terracing is to some extent referred to and explained in figure herewith. Every building does not require a base- ment of terraces. At other times terraces form the proper connection between the outlying lands and the building. In the surroundings of a country residence there should be provision made for the accommodation and introduction of those many factors which, combined, distinctively brand what we calla country life. The home must be set amid jeweled gardens, surrounded with parks which must also be possessed of life. The majestic tops of the towering trees, breaking the sky-line with beautiful variety, should find their reflection in the surface of a lake or other water, for no landscape is complete without water; let anyone make a mental comparison of a scene with and without water, and the charm that comes from its existence may be somewhat realized. Moving life is as necessary, not only for its own inherent charms, but also for the figure of com- parison it affords the eye in viewing distant scenes. In order to comprehend the full beauty of a distant view, the mind must be capable of instituting comparison with an object of some known size. Moving life in a landscape fulfills this purpose, for it is a matter of common knowledge as to what is the size of a deer, a cow, horses, sheep, or what not. Without this adjunct of life extensive views do not create in the mind that impression of largeness which really is theirs. The Ha-ha is used in landscape art for the purpose of eliminating the visible fence line, and yet retaining its advantages of enclosure; by its use the grounds of the garden proper can be brought, so far as the view is concerned, into perfect unity with the park and distant lands beyond. Moreover, it enables the park to be brought right up to the garden, allows of a concentration of the garden, and yet withal enormous depth of view. Acres of mowing grass and areas of gardening without an object, where park effects should exist, are not pleasant to contemplate; by the use of the Ha-ha these eyesores are made unnecessary. No fence should be in sight in a perfect view; the world should appear yours. The accompanying figure will illustrate the construction and use of the Ha-ha, as well as point out a few other principles in the ground construction. The Ha-ha FIVE” PO; GOR LY ACES N looking at the style of arrangement often in vogue and comparing it with proper development, it | will be seen how easy a matter it is to spoil the whole. This is done by not systematically applying the principles of arrangement, by omitting to place things in their proper positions for usefulness and through not developing the view lines that the land possesses. ‘To explain these differences examine Plan r, the production of a noted landscape gardener, concerning whose work, when finished, I had the honor to be consulted and for which I made another plan. En ar a ie Cees BOE Ss Bibeod, Mb By Be yh Og plerks a a vemree noe We 1% ey = = a ws Rito os ; Plan 1.—Showing Bad Arrangement BAD ARRANGEMENT Firstly, examine Plan 1 as regards utility. The entrance drive from the roadway comes to the south front, exposing the east front in doing so; it takes you around by the west front to the stables and kitchen entrance. Under such a road arrangement every cart and wagon, as well as every cab and carriage, coming to the residence, display their various objectionable features in the foreground of every view from all the principal rooms in the house. The conservatories are so far from the house that it would not be easy for any corridor to be made to connect them, and we are thereby cut off from a protected promenade that is so valuable an adjunct to a residence in rough weather. RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 17 The farmyard is placed in such a bad position that it necessitates the planting of a third of the grounds on that side of the house to hide it. The shrubbery planting follows the fence so strictly that the general view is not superior to that of the fence line. Under such conditions no natural impression can be made to give satisfaction. A piece of grass of any extent, surrounded by limitation lines, cannot possibly unite its contents to the undulations of the land and sky. Therefore, in such a plan as this, the natural effects of the country home can never be attained by its owner. The mind, in such a place, is always fenced in and more or less limited in its ideas, and thereby irritated; in such surroundings there can be no harmony, and the calm repose which is the birthright of every outlook of a country home is lacking sadly. Instead of exhibiting to the mind a living world of beauty, it makes one exist behind an inclosed fence line, caged up as a bird or some inferior animal. GOOD ARRANGEMENT—BROAD VIEWS Plan 2 isthe identical piece of ground, public roads, etc., the same as before, but all the arrange- ments are for harmony and repose and home conveniences. Select the smallest plot of grass on this Yi Uff See = Yy , ee kept ay LP VED Plan 2.--Showing Good Arrangement; Broad Views plan and take a dozen photographs of it from different positions, also do likewise with Plan 1, and it will be found that those of the latter are all alike, that the fence line gives limitation and repetition to every feature; but the pictures furnished by Plan 2, will be found all varying, and each one perfect in itself. It will be observed that not many trees are shown; there are a few planted on the lawn, a like proportion are intended to be used in that portion of the plan drawn dark to indicate shrubs. This style of planting is shown in detail in Plan 5. There is a necessity in such grounds as these of always having abundance—you can form many delightful pictures with the numerous varieties of hardy flowering and evergreen shrubs. ‘Tree effects in such an area should be very impressive and various 18 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS in proportion to the grounds. In this case each picture can have its particular tree in the east, west and south fronts, as is better shown in Plan 7; also the various walks can have each its different species of tree, as every walk and road should possess suitable shade trees; the trees in the fence line should not all be stationed round like a row of sentries or lamp posts, but should vary in accordance to the undulations of the planting so that they harmonize with the sky-lines of your grounds instead of with the fence lines. In this plan there is to be a flower garden on the south front of the house for summer bedding; on the east side along the promenade, bordering the kitchen garden, beds are provided for mixed flowers; particular attention ought to be here given to spring flowers, and the beds must be planted to show effects all the year round. At the termination of this walk is the Rose garden, convenient to the house, still not too near, as the fashion is to grow those plants chiefly that give a few large flowers in the year, and when not in bloom they are not effective enough to afford much pleasure to the eye. Letter A, represents Rhododendrons; B, hardy Ferns; C, water effects, and D, alpine plants. It will be observed that the entrance to the house and stables does not interfere with the complete privacy of those who reside in the house. The conservatories are placed so that they may be connected with the house, if desired. The farmyard is convenient and the back road thereto is not objectionable. All landscapes consist of broad and long pictures; one is generally the principal and the other subservient thereto. It will be observed in this plan that views or pictures are both long and broad; the long views are retained, but the principal development of the ground is accomplished by broad views. GOOD ARRANGEMENT—LONG VIEWS In Plan 3 we have another arrangement for the identical ground, in which the long views are made the principal development and the broad views made subservient thereto. The variations of ROAD ae ye. £ me) 2 OSS eJeU Io WT d ye RO 3 a’ oo Qs iw 3 BY Qs a4) Yay ENP “aA ay : = —— KITCHE CARDEN. “ ey Salt 2D. Te ‘ Plan 3—Showing Good Arrangement; Long Views this plan can be seen without explanation. The carriage entrance is made grander and the road to the farmyard is taken at the back of the kitchen garden. RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 19 WATERSIDE PROPERTY—LONG VIEWS There is no landscape complete without water. Wherever we find pure water in any form, here do we find, the whole world over, the most valuable building sites, and when nearing the large towns the land becomes more or less cut into strips as shown in Plan 4. In such positions as this the principal rooms of the house should not merely look across a river, but they should also afford an eae e] 2 Ke S : is | ES Plan 4.—Waterside Property; Long Views opportunity to look up and down the river as shown. Another important feature in these long strips of ground is that the carriage drive from the road to the house naturally develops long views, for in such a position the broad views do not possess sufficient value to become dominant. Here we 20 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS show how such views can be developed, and when this natural way is followed it will surprise many by the effect produced, for it gives infinity of impression instead of limitation of the grounds. The various arrangements for utility can be seen on the plan. The views from the river would also be many and pleasing. This plan, it may be added, gave satisfaction to the gentleman for whom it was made. MODEL HOME GROUND HE leading features of the drawing for a model Home Grounds (Plan 5), show a residence with i environments suitable to the comfort of its occupants, according to acknowledged canon laws; the way to enter a domain, how to select the site of a house, how to arrange the elevations of its foundations suitably to the land, where to dispose its principal rooms, how to approach a house, and how to show a house from the surrounding lands; how to place the objects of a homestead to the advantage of its tenants, viz.—showing where to locate the servants’ offices, how to see the park front from the residence, the gardens, stables, conservatory, terraces, out-buildings and endless variations of plant life. We show a dwelling house, with the surroundings which are acknowledged as properly belonging to it, and how final results can be eventually accomplished by first fixing the structure in the tight place, so that it will form the nucleus from which the completed garden or park will arise. The plan covers six acres and can be used, with some variations, for smaller or larger grounds. The correct entrance toa home from the public road has long been established; it should be at right angles, so that carriages coming along the road from either side of the gateway can have easy access (see A.). The best point of entrance, if otherwise suitable, is from a recess or bend in the road; our plan shows the best way of making this entrance recess from an ordinary roadside. To this the carriage approach must be free, direct, and easy, so that a conveyance can land its passengers at the door (4 to KX), without slackening speed to turn abrupt corners. The senses should be prepared to receive properly the correct impressions of the residence; thus the drive should go through a landscape impression of dense shade before reaching the light effect of the house picture; this successional light and shade effect is necessary in the arrangement of all landscapes. The following standards have long been established: The first view of the house should not be too near or it will not be seen to best advantage. It should not be too far off or the house will appear small. It should show the house in perspective, two sides at once (4). The offices, servants’ building, etc., should be indicated through the shrubs and trees (C). This canon law may shock non-students. It took 200 years to determine that they should appear as an adjunct to the residence, as a wing to the mansion, in the same style of architecture, but with less development, and while these buildings are often not carried so high, nevertheless, they must appear in perfect union with the main structure. When study is given to the accessories of a house many advantages will be perceived from this method which floods every room with light and sunshine, which yields of all four sides (fronts), for your own benefit, with scope for every natural want, supplying the means of a perfect service without mixing servants and visitors, without smell of cooking or noise of work from kitchen, laundry, dairy, etc. These facts make the north entrance the very best. We indicate a character for each portion of the ground and show how it unites with others. In so RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 21 small a place much variation in trees cannot be attempted; of course the choice of plants can be varied according to the circumstances of climate; we merely suggest a particular effect for each picture, to be altered as conditions dictate. In trees we confine ourselves principally to the Grecian or Sycamore Maple (Acer pseudo-platanus), German Linden (Tilia europza), with a few Abies nobilis, American Hemlock (Abies canadensis) and Rhododendrons. These latter two form the general out- lines of the boundary. To assist the development of these plants, we show five Tulip Trees (Liriodendron tulipifera), to give height to the general arrangement, as they produce a world of undulations above the ordinary growths, thereby forming bold outlines to the sky-line. A few White Willows are planted in the boundaries among the Hemlocks to develop their deep rich colors; for the same object Silver Birches are occasionally planted in the foreground. To sharpen the fine lines of light and shade we have occasionally planted columnar trees and shrubs to hide the boundaries in the mid-distance, assisting the trees and Rhododendrons named. Each character can have great development in detail, but when it has been satisfactorily developed no more should be attempted, or monotony is liable to encroach on the scene. For blanks in the original scenery a new character should be commenced at once at a different elevation. A great variation of small plants can be given, particularly in shrubby types, as well as herbaceous forms, which are generally neglected. ; In this small plan we have 3o distinct long views, 14 distinct tree effects, 6 special gardens, 12 special shrub effects; all have space given them to develop th€ir beauty, and are so arranged that the effects unite to each other and produce a harmonious whole. ‘These principles are good for all grounds, but large areas naturally give greatest opportunities. The house appears encircled with Grecian Maples. This is its picture frame. The stables (D) and conservatory (£), are also intended to peep out from among the trees and shrubs, giving a thorough impress to the mind of the extent of the homeland buildings. GENERAL VIEWS B is the point of observation in this plan for the first view—z, 2, 2, 3 and 5 show the assemblage of buildings that form the residence and its offices. From this point, also, come four long views across the property, averaging 600 feet in length. 44, to the right, water views. 45, aspiring Spruces appear, with boundaries of Maples. Many other scenes are to be obtained from this first view (#), giving variations, extent, and richness that no mere door-front effect can produce, and yet we have the other fronts of the house kept for private use capable of greater effects, beyond comparison, particu- larly when the land is not too confined. The back entrance to the house or into the demesne (see road to extreme left of plan) is properly designed for work, without being obtrusive to the main entrance. The stables(D) are convenient without being too near to give offence. The engine house (/7) is located to supply heat, electric light, motive power, etc., to the whole ft of household and garden buildings. All requirements are placed to serve dae object witho ering with the full enjoyment of the property. #6. From the entrance aff 2 a scene of aspiring character appears (Abies nobilis) with bound- aries vanishing amid Hemlocks ‘eth. the view is intended for one of elevating, calm repose. After passing through the entrance hall and reception room, and coming to the house terrace (JV), the boundaries disappear. Trees and shrubs show themselves in mysterious masses, with distances vanishing to the sky-line (7) among Hemlocks, White Willows, Tulip Trees, and large Rhododendrons, these latter planted only in sufficient quantities (with the help of the other planting) to hide the boundaries around the property; the limited square of six acres being thereby turned into a garden and park of infinite extent and filled with mysterious beauty. bo RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS From the point WV (South front), by directing the sight to different elevations, many scenes appear. In looking over the flower garden we see general view (8), moving life of sheep, cows, or horses, according to the owner’s desire (deer can only be admitted in large grounds). Trees and shrubs are to be protected by wire-fencing, shown by the dotted square line around the enclosure. The speci- mens shown on the grass must have wire protection in the usual way. The Ha-ha (V) protects the house fronts in such a way that nothing can cross or interrupt the line of vision from the mansion. Also, in this south view, the flower garden, Maples and moving life, near Japanese grounds, act as a foreground to the Lindens arranged in massing lines to give impressions of lace-like beauty to the eye. From this same observation point (1V), to the left the fruit garden appears, faced with trees, shrubs and flowers. Looking tothe right comes the distant views of columnar trees. Walking around to the west front of the terrace (V), the centre view is one of Maple and Tulip trees (12). We have long views of Maples, Lindens, etc. (13). On the right appears the lake (14), developing upright and pendulous tree characters. View lines are given to assist the reader in testing how to develop views and unite them together. From the house terrace appears beautiful general views (15) of the terrace gardens, with their plants, shrubs and flowers, and vases; these latter built up in the walls so that the wind cannot blow them over, and in a style suitable to the architecture of the building, and of a size sufficient to hold plants suspended over the curving wall and Ha-ha. All these general results we have produced to create a permanent effect with evergreen trees and shrubs, Rhododendrons, Hemlocks, etc., and yet leave ample space for deciduous plants between them, so as to show their own beauty without injuring the permanent or winter impressions. PARTICULAR VIEWS Descending the house terrace we leave general views and examine particular effects. Entering the west terrace (0), scene 16 shows the plants on the side of the straight walk to consist of golden Yews and green Yews (Taxus stricta), intended for the side of the centre of the grass figure. The impression aimed for here is one of restfulness. The south front, scene 17, gives the flower garden in a natural development of beds, all various in form, and in proportion to the size of the surrounding scenes. These are shown cut in grass, to be margined with grey plants, such as Antennaria dioica rosea and A. d. minima, the beds to be set out with abundant flowers, blue predominating (formed by Plumbago capensis, etc.); also scarlet Geraniums and Verbenas. . However much beautiful foliage you may use, let it always be subservient to flowers; show the gold and crimson of the Coleus, but let flowers be abundant in order to produce the most brilliant effect possible. East front (18) is a pendulous Yew scene (Taxus baccata Dovastoni) to give graceful repose. Upon entering the grounds from the east terrace (19) is a scene of four groups of the beautiful low growing Gaultheria procumbens, G. Shallon, G. nummularizefolia, and Vaccinium vitis Idea and three masses of tall Rhododendrons. To the right (20) a dozen masses of Andromeda floribunda and three Rhododendron groups. The long walk or promenade (21) comes next in rotation. On the left hand side is a south border to be filled with such herbaceous plants as will produce good flowers and sweet perfumes, suitable for cutting blossoms for use in the house. The tennis grounds (22), 1oox60, are shown with Kalmia latifolia planted in the surrounding RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 23 groups. This directs attention to the fact that each scene must be watched in arrangement, for it will be observed when some of these groups face in other directions, we have recommended other plants. The circular garden (23) is intended as a rosary. The large and small beds are for general plantations, the small surrounding trees are pendulous Silver Birches; the central erect plants to be of Irish Juniper (Juniperus communis hibernica). BOUNDARY FEATURES Leaving the rosary we enter the Japanese walk (7 24), to be planted with varieties of Retinospora and the small growing Umbrella Pine or Parasol Fir (Sciadopitys verticillata). These types are planted in the foreground, and to be carpeted with Euonymus radicans which forms a good edging as it can be cut into any form. This outer border is wide enough for a deciduous character to be introduced into the background among the Rhododendrons and Hemlocks. Behind the Japanese plants, variations of Lilacs (Syringa), can be shown carpeted with Mahonia aquifolia. Among these carpets will be plenty of space for varieties of effective herbaceous plants, such as Hollyhocks, Delphiniums, Phloxes, etc. This idea of herbaceous plants can be carried all the way down this border to the lodge after you have planted the plants we recommend, but in all your arrangements always look for your effect; never let desire for variety lead you away from beauty. The zig-zag edging in the plan on boundary walk is formed by placing a row of stones, to be covered with Ampelopis Veitchii or other creepers, to create a permanent edging, that will give good effects and cost nothing to maintain. Rhododendrons, also bog plants generally, are provided for at (26). All the fine varieties should here be shown that your space and the climate will allow. The development of these effects to be assisted with golden Yews, and the bare ground to be carpeted with Epigzea repens (Ground Laurel or Trailing Arbutus), a native over a great part of the American continent; its early spring flowers, exhaling a rich, spicy fragrance, and its effective evergreen leaves making it a very valuable carpeting plant. All plant gardens should have a soil from two to three feet deep. This is the foundation for all good cultivation. No half-way measures should be adopted. After leaving the Rhododendron ground ascend the park mound (27). This should be built up entirely of good soil rising to the height of ten feet (one-sixth higher to allow for settlement) by soil taken from the water formation. On the top a temple or summer-house should be erected in suitable tone to the mansion, not necessarily the same style. From this mound beautiful views of the house (in perspective), will be seen rising from the terraces among Grecian Maples, and moving life and trees and other shrubs from the park in the foreground, with various other scenes to the right and left. Before leaving the mound cast an eye along the mass of planting to the left (28) the series of low plants indicated allow of a view 500 feet long, and are so arranged as to give the eye a vista of silent plant life, ever varying in outlines, on each side of the view lines. The beauties of the deciduous Magnolias may be shown in many variations, and their particular beauties can be seen in due course by following the boundary walk. This mound may be carpeted with Jasminum nudiflorum, dotted with Scillas, and Golden Honeysuckles (Lonicera brachypoda aureo-reticulata). On returning to the boundary walk a Juniper effect (29) is shown, carpeted with Ericas. This is very charming. An effect of Berberis (30) may be developed in the background. The next special effect (31) is a ground for Alpines and Ferns, a rockery formed by rising soil in the beds and holding and covering them with rocks, the whole to be carpeted with Antennaria 24 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS tomentosa. Plans showing how to build rockeries to contain plants and show off their full beauty are given further on. Leaving the rockery, space may be given for the beautiful variations of American Arbor-vite (32). In the background a Spirea effect (33), using the beautiful S. Lindleyana in quantity; it requires protection in winter in the eastern states. A recess for a Virgin Bower arbor (Clematis flammula), is at (34); its white sweet scented flowers in spring, and its complete covering of thread-like flower effect of the seed vesselsin the autumn, are extremely charming. A general Hydrangea effect may be worked in about (35). Beyond the arbor (34) variations of Biota may be shown (the Chinese Arbor-vite) (36). A Hawthorn effect (37) is given in the background (Paul's Double Flowering Thorn and others). The boundary walk beyond the lake has variations of the Azalea, more particularly of A. amcena (38). From the position (39) are three dwarf effects of the beautiful Japanese Maples. The five beds on the water side (40) develop Bamboos and Lilies. In the lodge corner (41) may be introduced variations of the Viburnums (Snowballs), among the Rhododendrons and Hemlocks. The Woodbine mound (42) near the lodge to be carpeted with varieties of Honeysuckle. On the top of the mound (43) some simple protection for shade and seats should be provided. The views from here of the house, lake, and general impressions will be magnificent. Both these mounds (27 and 42) show many beauties we have not named. The general effect of the lake (44) will be pendulous and upright growth, produced by planting the three upright groups shown with Cupressus Lawsoniana; in exposed places the Red Cedar can be substituted (Juniperus Virginiana). The remaining six groups to consist of pendulous plants as follow: Two beds for the variations of Cherries, one for Willows, one for Betula Youngi (a pendulous Birch), one for Poplar (grandidentata pendula), and one of Populus Parasol de St. Julien. It will be well to confine the water plants to a few. Nympheea odorata will answer nicely for your white effects, and N. odorata rosea, the very beautiful Cape Cod variety, for pink. Add to this Nelumbium speciosum and N, luteum. These will be sufficient for hardy species. To obtain gold, scarlet and blue effects, plunge in tubs the following tender species so that they can be removed readily from the lake into the hothouse in winter: Nymphzea Devoniensis (scarlet), N. Zanzibarensis coerulea (blue), and Limnocharis Humboldtii, the Water Poppy, for masses of gold. Group between the lodge and lake (45) is of Rhododendrons and Betula pendula laciniata with Mahonia aquifolia acting as a carpet. The beds on the side of the carriage drive (46) are to be developed with Taxus (Yew) and Grass variations near the water. On the left hand of the lodge (47) plant Hollies among Rhododendrons. The effect (48) to be varied with Rhus Cotinus. The group (49) to be varied with Robinia and Dogwood. Variations (50) to be Amelanchier and Althea. Variations (51) Laburnum (Cytisus) and Kerria (Corchorus Japonica). Mountain Ash (Pyrus Aucuparia) and Daphne are shown at (52); and (53) is Clematis variations. This plan, which is drawn to a scale of six acres, embraces all the essential principles for the proper development of the special characters of the various plants used. Many portions of the plan can be utilized to advantage for even relatively small estates. CHERRY > REUM AND GRAPE: WALK SOS ENEraRrAs SSA SIS att SS DES. JOS FORSYTH JOHNSON LANDSCAPE CAROENER. Plan 5—A Model Home Ground. REFERENCE TO PLAN 8 Italic Capitals Refer to Views; Roman Capitals to the Buildings A—Entrance. #—First view. C—Offices to be divided as follows: A—Butler’s Pantry. B—Kitchen. C—Scullery. D—Housekeeper’s room. E—Servants’ hall. F— Laundry. G—Stillroom. H— Larders. K—Dairies. D—Stables. E—Conservatory. F—Garden house for fruit rooms, tools, ete. G—Coal house. H—Engine room, boilers, etc. I—Cow house. J—Reserve space for additional buildings. K—Front door of dwelling house. Z—Greenhouses, to be divided into vinery and plant houses accord- ing to requirements. M—Border for tender flowers in- tended chiefly for cutting. N—House terrace. O—West terrace. P—Flower garden terrace. O—Fast terrace. R—Tennis grounds. S—Rhododendron ground. 7—Japanese scene. U—Fernery and Alpine ground. V—Ha-ha. W—The Lodge. X\— Entrance to offices. Y—Tunnel under conservatory con- nections. Z—House. M—Entrance hall. N—Reception room. O—Drawing room, P— Boudoir. Q—Library. R—Study. S—Breakfast room. T—Dining room. U—Room for smoking or business purposes. W—Picture gallery. General Views A—Entrance scene. B2—House. #3—Park view. 24—Lake view. Bs—Abies nobilis aud Maples. Ae—Entrance door. /V—House terrace. iV8—Park view. Vg—Linden view. Nio—Fruit gardens, etc. V11—Columnar trees. Ni2—Central view, Maples ard Tulip Trees. N13—To the left, long view of Maples and Lindens, N14—To the right, water effects. V15—Generaleffect of allthe terraces. Particular Views O16—West terrace. P17—Flower garden. O18—East terrace. O1g—East steps, views of raised car- pet, ete. Q20—Andromeda and Rhododen- drons. Q2t—Promenade and _ herbaceous border. R22—Rhododendrons. R23—Rosary. 53--Clematis variations, creeping over large rocks. ‘Taxus (Yews) and Grasses. 46 Boundary Features 724—Japanese plants. T25—Lilacs. S26—Rhododendron garden. 29—Junipers. 30—Berberis. 31—Rockery—Ferns and Alpine Plants. 2—American Arbor-vite. 3—Spireea Lindleyana, ete. 34—Virgin Bower, Clematis flam- mula. 35—Hydrangeas. 36—Biota (Chinese Arbor-vitz). 37—Hawthorns. 38—Azalea, plenty of A. amcena. 39—Japanese Maples. 4o—Bamboos and Lilies. 41— Snowballs (Viburnum variations). 42—Woodbine mound (Lodge). 43— Magnificent views from mound. 44— Water. 45—Rhododendrons and Birches. 47—Hollies and Rhododendrons. 48—Rhus cotinus, ete. 49—Robinia and Dogwood. 50—Amelanchier and Hibiscus. s1—Laburnum, Kerria, Tamarix, etc. 52—Mountain Ash and Daphne varia- tions, etc. 2 J 2 =) THINNING OUT WOODLANDS HEN it is possible to select for the homestead a position which is closely surrounded by \W woodland, this will be found of decided advantage; but the necessary thinning out of the trees, etc., must not be carried out on the wrong lines, as too often happens. The general method adopted is to clear all ground from brush growth and to cut off the branches of the trees about eight feet from the ground; the results are most unsatisfactory, being injurious to beauty and utility, reducing protection from strong winds, and showing many other serious faults. The first thing to be done is to select trees that are not mere sticks, that is long poles with a few branches on the top, all the lower ones having been killed off. The trees left for permanent growth must have the possibility of side branches; when these are located all the trees of a “stick” formation must be cleared away from them on all sides, so that the tips of the branches of the selected trees will have room for growth and plenty of air, and not by any means permit the wind whipping the tips off their branches against surrounding trees. The undergrowth, or what we term bushes, it may also be very desirable to save, for among them may be found native shrubs of great value for effect and protection. It generally happens that the land is not perfectly level but more or less undulating, this will give low or rising ground and hills and valleys. Thinnings should show to advantage the principal views of the grounds; these vary in all instances, and no general instructions could be given that would apply to all environments. Every beautiful object in the landscape should be shown, and objectionable features, such as unsightly buildings, roads, and particularly limitation lines, as, for instance, fences, have to be banished from the sight. On Plan 6 is shown where, under ordinary circumstances, the main views would go through the valleys, reserving them principally for grass and water, on the high grounds we retain and plant according to requirements; thus making the low grounds appear lower than they did when the development was commenced and the high grounds to appear higher. It will be observed that the water is made broader where the view lines from the house intersect. The proper position is shown for residence, servants’ offices, kitchen garden, stable and farm. In this plan trees are shown separately to give the reader an idea how to plant; their effects from all distant points of observation would be that of masses of lights and shades; they would only become single upon near approach. —————————————— RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS Ale Mini I AR yy ase 4 Plan 6.—Forming a Homestead from Woodlands and Thickets PARI hOME “Noa HE mansion shown in the annexed plan (No. 7) is located so as to have the benefit of sunshine from TT every point of the compass. ‘The servants’ apartments are detached in a manner to be convenient yet not objectionable to those who reside in the mansion. The yard is walled in, attached to the kitchens, so that receiving of coal and the general wants of the house can be supplied without giving any offence to the surroundings. The stables are similarly accommodated. The diamond spaces denote conservatories or other structures, giving the advantage of protected promenades. The small square north of the conservatory is intended for the water tower. The small square to the north of the entrance is to be devoted to the sanitary arrangements, water closets, bath rooms, etc., so that sunshine can be obtained and repairs made without interference with the residence. The roads are adapted for the various necessities. The terrace around the house is shown by the steps therefrom, and the walk around the house also gives convenience of access to every portion of the homeland, and connects with the (Cedar) promenade which is an essential feature of every good home. The main road to the house crosses the bridge and shows a view of the mansion, two fronts at one time. The back road is located so as to give no annoyance to the residents. The straight lines from the house represent the chief views or pictures that are seen from the mansion; those marked with the figure 1 are supposed to go into distances beyond these grounds. The mere placing of one thing by itself is not development; it is indeed more often the proof of aninability to arrange. The right principle to be observed is placing one plant in one elevation of the profile of one picture; one feature of the landscape requires one subject asits dominant. By examining this plan carefully it will be seen that a single subject is ever the principle for each impression. The picture frame of the residence is of Cedars of Lebanon and upright trees, so that their natural horizontal and perpendicular lines may harmonize with those in the buildings and terraces. Similar groups near the bridge are to harmonize with the water lines. From the entrance to the residence the groups of pyramidal trees are to be Picea pungens; the shade trees beyond are to be Red Maples. The groups in the south part are Sycamore Maples. The pyramidal plants in the east front are Picea concolor. On the east front is located a garden, the material used being composed principally of hardy plants. We term it a natural perpetual garden, and will endeavor to show the many advantages it possesses for continuous effect united with economy; to do it full justice, however, is almost impossible within the limits at our command; no home ground is complete that does not make provision for the plants that are hardy to the climate, and no form of planting gives such satisfactory results in proportion to the space occupied and the money expended. When the design has been staked off, the soil should be thrown from the pathways into the grouping ground or beds. The centre of this garden should be depressed at least eighteen inches; this will do much toward obtaining the necessary undulations and view lines that harmonize so well with plant outlines. 32 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS The prominent features of the garden should be planted with bushy evergreens, such as Rhodo- dendrons and English Yews, four to six feet high. Particular effects (nooks, corners, broad and long views) are obtained by planting one special form of shrub or tree in groups, according to the require- ments of the picture; a variety of Juniper might be shown in one, Taxus stricta in another, the Umbrella Pine of Japan for another. Ilex crenata is very valuable and probably the most hardy evergreen shrub in America; the delightful pendulous Chinese Cherries, the Cut-leaf Birches, are all available; in fact there is no limit to variety or selection. The edging of all groups and beds should be constructed for permanence, so that they shall not be destroyed when digging the beds or through the use of the footpaths; this can be very easily accomplished by lining the figures off with coarse stones, say six, nine to twelve inches in diameter, and the rougher the better; larger stones can be used in prominent corners and covered with Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii) or other creeping plants, The edging is then to be covered with plant life: Vinea minor and the white form of it, alba, are well adapted to this purpose. Behind this stone protection and encircling each figure to a width of twelve inches, more or less, the ground should be thickly carpeted with masses of Snowdrops, Crocus, and Scilla Siberica, interspersed with hardy Alpine plants. Use Alpine Dianthus, and Lychnis, Arabis, Alyssum, Armeria, etc., and such plants as will continue flowering from early spring to midsummer. This arrangement of a perpetual bed will not occupy more space than the twelve inches of grass edging usually placed in the same position, and which costs so much to keep in bad order ever afterward. We have still remaining ample available space in which to provide for the midsummer until fall flowering plant beds and groups, such as masses of Phloxes, Delphiniums, Helianthus, Pyrethrums, Scabiosas, etc. After giving these attention, comes the work of carpeting the intervening bare ground with such plant forms as creeping Junipers, Arenaria, Spiraea Waterer, Daphne cneorum, Genista, the minute Thymes, and others; carpeting plants are obtainable in endless variety, and care must be taken to select forms harmonizing with the plant beds to be carpeted. For instance a bed of Phlox might be carpeted with Juniper prostrata; while a bed of the blue Linum would appear to advantage with a carpet of Thymus lanuginosa. From the raised mound in the southeastern section of the garden, views affording great variety and extensive pictures of the mansion and grounds can be had. The water (east) not only adds impressiveness and value to the general effect of such a garden as this, but in itself can serve as the home of tender water plants; if the very slight expense attendant on the culture of aquatics is not desired, however, a natural flow of water springing from its bosom may be contrived, but the use of cheap iron fountain work should be avoided as the plague. The planting of the margins of the walk around the lake (west) should be attended to with taste and care, for these are open to any effect the mind can suggest; every yard of walk should give a new impression, and the nooks, recesses, and promontories are planned to assist that endeavor. Natural gardens are shown in Plans Nos. 2, 3, and 5, Part I.; also in Rockery, Bog Garden, and Natural Garden, Part II. ay Pry S Q is “Ad ws «I : Plan 7.—A Park Home and its Environments, No. 1,—(See page 31.) PARI HOME, No 2 HE proper placing of every feature which is to surround the home gives charm to life: misplace- ment means dissatisfaction and failure. Place is a word that conveys an injunction of the very first importance as to fixing buildings, planting trees, shrubs, flowers, etc. Natural beauty is infinite in its results on our emotions; and development of this is a natural desire possessed by all who have the power of perception. Habit and vanity often injure this desire; thus, to take extreme ideas, living amongst the wheels of machinery may give a fancy that all things should be round; living amongst straight streets gives a queer notion that vegetation ought to be made to grow into street-like formation. When these styles are placed on the land, however expensive or rich in color, they may cause slight satisfaction to light fancies, but they never can satisfy ultimate desires which are for infinity, and so require suggestion of the infinite which these fancies do not create, but rather, indeed, limit the power, and stop the natural desires. What truly satisfies is the perfect development of life. When the true mind sees the beauty of natural development it is satisfied, charmed, inspired and moved into that higher motif of life which is unfathomable. But mutilation of any living subject does not give this, and any arrangement that injures plant life limits its powers of inspiring, however numerous the bushes, flowers and trunks of trees may be. Injury will not satisfy the power of admiration; large masses of green leafage will, undoubtedly, bring delight, and those of limited perception may fancy that such is enough; but the truth is when delight is limited the results cannot satisfy natural desires. Not appreciating that plant life sways the sentiments even more than one is aware, mere cultivation is adopted, and here commences the destruction of natural beauty by cutting out its character; strong branches of trees are lopped off, and the young growth pinched with finger nails. Not only soft wooded plants are thus treated, but the noble Rocky Mountain Spruces even do not escape the hands of desecration. It is admitted that Nature possesses the beautiful, but when its creations are to be revealed it is surprising to any intelligent mind how very few really know what constitutes the beauties of Nature, although, when they are revealed, of course, all can see them. A very short time shows that the would-be arranger knows nothing of the production of natural beauty; the lover of Nature feels and the artist mind knows that Nature develops beauty by character, whereas the would-be arranger destroys this character and endeavors to fix his own habits on vegetation. It is not uncommon to see in the gardening world an admittedly skilled gardener who is a good cultivator of cut flowers, fruits, and vegetables, entirely deficient in perception of natural beauty; and when you see the cutting and pinching work of such men on what they term improvements on the noble Abies, all its beauty vanishes and these plants, which possess miracles of loveliness for all, are injured beyond the power of language to define. Examine what they try to give for the character they destroy. Nothing but the form of a dumpling or a pruned gooseberry bush! A landscape should give pleasure the whole year through, successive characters becoming the governing principles in rotation. Each special season with its own growth; flowers, fruit, or winter evergreen leaves become the predominant feature in turn. 34 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS Planting is a very important feature of landscape, our views of its natural development need not be given here as they have in Plan 5 already been discussed. Plan 8 shows a mansion with suitable surroundings, developed naturally, and revealing the scenery of the land. The arrangement is planned on what is called the English Park style. This plan shows also the proper position for the various rooms of a house, and where the entrance should be. Also the proper way to provide for additions (conservatory for instance). The stables would have to be moved to a greater distance should many horses be kept. The outline of the flower garden (South) is surrounded by the Ha-ha, and joins to the terrace wall of the west front, so that the parklands with their cattle and adjuncts can be fully enjoyed from the residence. The shrubberies and gardens are supposed to be connected with the east front. The carriage entrance is in the best possible position, the north front. Wire fencing protects the carriage drive from encroachment of cattle. Without going into details we may note in the general contour of this plan the distance views— they are entirely different from the old fashion of an age that is passed, when mere streets were cut into woods, and long rows of trees were planted in straight lines to make long prospects. However beautiful these may have been, a natural view, as indicated in our design, would produce infinitely more beauty from the same expenditure. Until the designer understands the difference between infinite effect and limited effect he should not attempt to plan a landscape. Views of rows of trees may delight through grandeur, historic association, and age, but the same ~ grand development along natural lines would add incomparably to the permanent results. Walk down the grandest straight avenue you know—it becomes tiring before the first mile is complete. Look at the view of the grandest straight line of trees you know—however impressive it may be on the first walk, it fails to afford continued satisfaction. But a naturally developed grouping ever satisfies, never becomes tiring to the senses; the ever-varying light and shade lend new impressions, and changes are created by every shift of season or sunlight. The natural protection for lands is trees and shrubs, and these also are the very best for residences. These break the wind and make it lose its force. When a gentleman builds a iesidence in a large natural landscape, with extensive views, the question arises how best to unite the architectural impressions of the mansion to the grand effects of the surroundings in such a way as to secure that perfect harmony which is the aim of all who possess good taste. This is accomplished by proper development according to the principles of natural undulations in regard to their various masses and distances. On learning the formation of these a knowledge of the whole is gained, and then the mind acquires a base to enable it to allot in true proportions a space for each object, gardens, parks, etc., that may be required. To unite these together into a harmonious whole, intermediate forms between the various departments or components are necessary. For instance, the plateau of the residence is more or less refined by stretches of mowing grass, gardens, etc. These can be large or small according to the owner’s wish, but the pictures connected with the residence must be in true proportion; if we make these too small or too large the harmony of the mansion will be ruined, however much money may be expended forits develop- ment. ‘To unite this more or less formality of the residence to the surrounding natural undulations, intermediate groups of shrubs or trees, or both, as the proportions may demand, should be placed between them; in size these should be in proportion to the ground, but in form they should be in character with the undulations of the land. If this is properly done the residence will harmonize with the surrounding country, be it small or distant mountains. It is character and proportion that give harmony to formation. This subject is too large for further amplification here; it is discussed in full in “Principles of Landscape Gardening,” (London, 1874) a re-issue of which is contemplated. ——— | ‘S ON ‘Slusewu01TAUg SIT DUS SsWIOFY 4ISBQ VS ued PMOAUNG 34 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS Planting is a very important feature of landscape, our views of its natural development need not be given here as they have in Plan 5 already been discussed. Plan 8 shows a mansion with suitable surroundings, developed naturally, and revealing the scenery of the land. The arrangement is planned on what is called the English Park style. This plan shows also the proper position for the various rooms of a house, and where the entrance should be. Also the proper way to provide for additions (conservatory for instance). The stables would have to be moved to a greater distance should many horses be kept. The outline of the flower garden (South) is surrounded by the Ha-ha, and joins to the terrace wall of the west front, so that the parklands with their cattle and adjuncts can be fully enjoyed from the residence. The shrubberies and gardens are supposed to be connected with the east front. The carriage entrance is in the best possible position, the north front. Wire fencing protects the carriage drive from encroachment of cattle. Without going into details we may note in the general contour of this plan the distance views— they are entirely different from the old fashion of an age that is passed, when mere streets were cut into woods, and long rows of trees were planted in straight lines to make long prospects. However beautiful these may have been, a natural view, as indicated in our design, would produce infinitely more beauty from the same expenditure. Until the designer understands the difference between infinite effect and limited effect he should not attempt to plan a landscape. Views of rows of trees may delight through grandeur, historic association, and age, but the same © grand development along natural lines would add incomparably to the permanent results. Walk down the grandest straight avenue you know—it becomes tiring before the first mile is complete. Look at the view of the grandest straight line of trees you know—however impressive it may be on the first walk, it fails to afford continued satisfaction. But a naturally developed grouping ever satisfies, never becomes tiring to the senses; the ever-varying light and shade lend new impressions, and changes are created by every shift of season or sunlight. The natural protection for lands is trees and shrubs, and these also are the very best for residences. These break the wind and make it lose its force. When a gentleman builds a 1esidence in a large natural landscape, with extensive views, the question arises how best to unite the architectural impressions of the mansion to the grand effects of the surroundings in such a way as to secure that perfect harmony which is the aim of all who possess good taste. This is accomplished by proper development according to the principles of natural undulations in regard to their various masses and distances. On learning the formation of these a knowledge of the whole is gained, and then the mind acquires a base to enable it to allot in true proportions a space for each object, gardens, parks, etc., that may be required. To unite these together into a harmonious whole, intermediate forms between the various departments or components are necessary. For instance, the plateau of the residence is more or less refined by stretches of mowing grass, gardens, etc. These can be large or small according to the owner’s wish, but the pictures connected with the residence must be in true proportion; if we make these too small or too large the harmony of the mansion will be ruined, however much money may be expended forits develop- ment. To unite this more or less formality of the residence to the surrounding natural undulations, intermediate groups of shrubs or trees, or both, as the proportions may demand, should be placed between them; in size these should be in proportion to the ground, but in form they should be in character with the undulations of the land. If this is properly done the residence will harmonize with the surrounding country, be it small or distant mountains. It is character and proportion that give harmony to formation. This subject is too large for further amplification here; it is discussed in full in ‘Principles of Landscape Gardening,” (London, 1874) a re-issue of which is contemplated. —————— ‘2 (ON ‘s}USUTUOITAUGq S?T PUS SsUIOFY HIed VS Veld S BEARTIES OP PEANT-LIFE S the unfolding of a plant through its several seasons gives forth continually varying and charm- a ing effects, a close study and observation of its periodical changes are requisite, and the system here recommended to the earnest student seeking his initiation into the mysteries of plant life "will be found of great assistance. With the use of this form, by noting in it the changes observed at the different periods of the year, a knowledge will be quickly acquired which will enable the student to so understand his subject and the beauties of plant life, as to enable him to plan successfully the development of land. We require one hour, or more, every twenty-four hours to feed the body, yet at every moment of these same twenty-four hours, our mind is open to impressions of greater or lesser import, of which those to be derived from plant observation should not be among the least to all who love Nature. The botanist has given us, through critical analysis, a vast knowledge of the anatomy of vegeta- tion. But this knowledge is, in great part, confined to its value to the physical system and its use as applied to the sustenance of material life. He gives usno idea of character, which is the essence of beauty. If we examine a botanist’s genus, we will find that it does not inform us as to the aesthetic side of plant life, nor does it serve to convey those impressions which are ever a source of the keenest gratification. As an example, take Euonymus; some of these carpet the ground in various colors; other species are bushes, and still other species trees. All contain abundant variety of form and color, each species yielding its individual impression as it develops. When laying out grounds we must arrange plants each with an eye to its own particular form; and in sufficient variety, so that in any month throughout the year we can discover subjects for pleasure and admiration. We claim that every individual is in possession of more senses than the standard five, at least the reception of impressions opens such a wide vista of delight that a large classification must be accorded them. When the senses have been satiated by one particular form and color, still another impression may be found to carry yet higher the sense of perception of this gratifi- cation; this sensation we obtain by passing from the observation of the character of one species of plants to that of another species. Time effect in landscape observation is composed of succession and special effects. Ifa dark scene has been planned it is necessary to provide also for a light effect as an offset. Thus we may first observe the Beeches when they unfold their leaves in spring; these we term impressions of light and innocence. From such a scene as this we turn to groups of Pines for dark effect, to the White Oaks for picturesque effect; then observe the majesty of the Cedars, or the aspiring life scenes of the Piceas, and so on through a countless panorama of ever changing beauty. A general effect should be first sought for by placing evergreen trees and shrubs on salient points of development, having a reason for each particular one so planted; this leaves ample space for filling in with other subjects. The division of plant time will be found complete by noting the tabular arrangement given further on in this chapter; it is still further explained and carried out in every plan shown in this book. 38 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS Land should be so laid out as to produce effective results for many ages as well as for present time; this is easy of accomplishment, for the permanent effects intended for future development require such little space in the first planting, being from one hundred to two hundred feet apart in tree life, that they will not interfere with those desired fur immediate results. If your land is laid out in the manner we have indicated, each year will see produced many new, delightful and surprising impressions. The first consideration when selecting plants for development is to secure those variations of forms which will be adaptable to the various pictures the land possesses: when this has been secured, group planting follows, so that pronounced colors may predominate each in its most suitable place, the grouping to be arranged with a view to perfect results in lights and shades, so that even in a very small space, or with small plants, all the possible gratification to be secured mnay be yours. As an example, ~ leaving the trees in abeyance, let us put down a group of scarlet and white autumn Phloxes; then a bed of gorgeous Sunflowers; these should have dark surrroundings or purple flowers to offset them ad libitum. Many of our plans show these details, particularly No. 5, Part 1, and Nos. 9g, ro, and rr, Part II. In laying out land for development it is absolutely necessary to give true proportions to your pictures. How often do we see large open spaces around a residence wasted, and the appearance of the house seriously injured; the proportions of the residence to its surroundings being thereby thrown out of harmony. It is not at all difficult to make manifest all the large pictures the land possesses, and this may be readily done without destroying the plateau of the mansion. An air of repose is the concomitant of all scenery. This must surely be striven for; size is but one feature appertaining to the general development (see plans Nos. 5, 7, and 8, Part I.). However magnificent and impressive scenes of gigantic timber trees may be, however glorious an impression they yield us, however brilliant immense masses of summer flowers; all must be subservient to repose and harmony. So that, after we have designed our scenes of large impressions, the necessary propor- tion of more simple effects should be filled in. Picture how enjoyable to the eye will appear a small plot of grass, surrounded by shrubs, after one of these ground scenes. Every effect has its outline, but it should be so broken that none can tell where the boundary of each particular scene finishes; the various impressions observable from grass to sky-line should group themselves together as harmoniously as the leaves group themselves into masses, and as these masses again group themselves into the outlines of a fully developed tree. In following with the eye the salient points of scenery we find it composed of lights and shades. These, we now know, are produced by undulations, and the undulations again are composed of promontories and recesses, these latter giving us position for the time effects of the year. The promontories and high features of the land designate the positions for evergreen trees and shrubs: these are the salient points; the intervening spaces are for more deciduous subjects, but without any divisional line. This rule may be said to have its exceptions, for there are occasions when deciduous subjects may be grown on promontories and evergreen subjects in recesses. This principle of the arrangement of evergreen plants on salient points should also be carried out when carpeting the ground with small plants; of these we have an ample choice: Saxifragas, Sedums, Ericas, Vincas, Gaultherias, Cotoneasters, Ivies, Junipers, Euonymus, etc. Thus when your evergreen shrubs, trees, and carpeting plants have taken possession of the salient points, you may readily grasp the features yet to be taken advantage of, and the remaining development becomes a comparatively easy task. Time, which so powerfully influences affairs here below, exercises an agency of the very greatest moment in all decorative efforts. Vegetation varies materially at the different periods of existence. Cedrus Libani, for example, has a spiral form of growth in its early days, and gains a sort of table- RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 39 shaped summit when it reaches maturity. Many plants are effective only during a few months, while others are so throughout the entire twelve. Time, indeed, must be taken into consideration in every arrangement which we may happen to make. Wait, only wait, and often, as through a species of magic, results ensue which were the least hoped for, and as charming as they are unexpected. In all our operations the various so-termed permanent plants must prove the basis. Ever- bounteous Nature has provided these sufficingly for every display, the flowers taking precedence in summer and the fruitage in autumn. When the period of each plant's life comes to a close, another plant should be coming forward to occupy its place. In general we should so order our operations that each season may manifest a beauty of its own. Many vegetable forms yield effects for so very brief a period that it needs care to replace them by others of a more durable kind. In studying how we may render our grounds beautiful, not for months only, but for years, it will be necessary to have recourse to means adapted to the end. Some growths endure but for a season, while others last for whole hundreds of years. Three points demand our closest attention in respect of planting—permanency of effects, future effects, and present effects. Many plants do not show their fullest beauty until touched by the hand of Time—for example, the British Oak (Quercus Robur), Cedrus Libani, Taxus baccata, and others. In arranging these long- lived growths, their after effects, which must also prove an after effect to us, have to be most atten- tively considered. Indeed, certain examples give us a sort of foretaste of the pleasure which is to fall to the lot of others. Trees such as these strike even the most careless with admiration, and are worthy of a lasting place in our regards. They do not, in the first instance at least, interfere with any of our other combinations; they require but a small amount of space in their early days, and always form a portion of the scenery. As they should be generally planted at long distances apart, ample scope will be commonly left for developing other and quicker reaching effects. What I would term future or prospective effects are not always held of sufficient account. Many plants do not begin to develop their character of beauty until perhaps some ten or twenty years have elapsed. Mistakes are made in reference to this matter, and not discovered before it proves almost too late to rectify them. Unremitting attention and care, always bearing in mind the successes which our growths are intended to achieve, can alone ensure us success. Plants used for present purposes can be removed in due course as the more permanent ones gain in dimensions. A season before removal their roots ought to be prepared in the usual way. In respect of the treatment of trees and shrubs, proper thinning out is too frequently neglected. Were such matters seen to in proper time they might be obviated, and short-lived and quick-growing trees and shrubs would not then be allowed to injure plants of a more permanent description. The duration of plants, to whatever class they may happen to belong, holds an important place in our arrangements, for trees and shrubs of the longest endurance are most worthy of the highest rank in our esteem. The space lying between the back outlines and the foreground of our landscape ought, in general, to be allotted to growths that display effects during the summer period. The outlines of foreground and background, on the other hand, should be occupied by plants giving permanent display, more especially in winter. All our planting, indeed, must have an object in view. Each effect, in order to — achieve beautiful results, must be complete in itself. In this we only follow the order pursued by Nature. A mound of undulating outlines, suitably decorated, will present attractions, each succeeding the other, throughout the whole course of the year. As for the general outlines, they may be completed by the introduction of permanent plants, giving successional effects six winter months of the year, and forming most beautiful outlines for summer. Special results are best realized in all their 40 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS glory by availing ourselves of the attractions of plants in succession after succession, singly or in groups, each complete in itself. In studying effective arrangements, nothing, comparatively speaking, will be found so desirable as to make use of plants that will bear the vicissitudes of our climate. In other respects, a splendid display in summer can alone be achieved by resorting to tender plants; but, by proper proportions of outlines and mid-lines of sight, beautified by hardy plants, a far greater brilliancy could be given to this effect; and, on the whole, a natural and permanent beauty must be principally sought for by resorting to plants which our climate is capable of developing. This premised, we must seek for those forms and colors in vegetation that will yield an outcome at every period of the year, but for perma- nent results, we shall, perforce, have recourse to hardy forms of vegetation. There are two great divisions, one suitable for winter, the other for summer; and for these we refer our readers to the tables which follow; this grouping will be found best adapted to the natural arrangement and harmonious combination which ought to subsist in all scenery. At the same time, there ought to be a continuity between both of these divisions, so that there shall be visible no abrupt line of demarcation. Many of our Rhododendrons, indeed, will often yield a considerable display at both periods of the year. In fact, we are nut to be bound too strictly by square and line, but should endeavor to blend our harmonies by conforming to Nature's laws, according to the facilities at our disposal. This division of time, taking into account the availability of the soil, the climate, and all other considerations, will fulfil all requisites. It is when summer’s reign is over that we begin more fully to appreciate the beauty of our ever- green plants. With all their varying lights and shades they embellish our pleasure grounds, and soften to us the rigors of the season until spring shall return, laden with treasures, in order to scatter them in rich profusion at the very foot of man. Summer shines throughout with a yet more glowing radiance than the spring in the brilliancy with which she clothes the earth, the enchanting fragrance which she scatters broadcast, the soft haze with which she veils the landscape, the sunny beauty of her skies. Closely following summer's footsteps comes autumn, bearing richest fruits, touching as with a magic wand the trees that presently are to glow with many a wondrous tint of crimson, and of scarlet, and of gold. There are various natural scenes which show forth beauties from early spring till latest autumn without any assistance from art. Some old Hawthorn hedge, for example, will display a pleasant bordering of early Primroses and Violets, and, when May arrives, wraps itself over with fair sweet flowers. Then the Wild Rose peeps forth with her lovely delicate buds, and in autumn Rose and Thorn alike vie with each other in bright array of scarlet fruitage—a perfect delight to look at— yielding a regale for the birds in requital of their songs. Yet many a scene would manifest results not less charming than these would we only avail ourselves of Nature’s guidance; but, led astray by technical principles, we fail to understand, and miss the pleasures which otherwise we might enjoy. We frequently see groups of Thorns or other trees with hardly anything but grassy space around them. What a blessing grass, in its various forms, has proved to mankind. Nevertheless, it is not desirable to employ invariably one kind of grass in our arrangements, or occupy with it the entire arena of any scene. It will, in most cases, be rendered more effective by the adjunct of various other carpeting plants, asin Nature. These may be connected with the trees, by intermediate growths, shrubs, for example, and the like. Nature garlands her trees in the most lovely fashion with climbing plants—a decoration in which we may invest when we will. This earth, which we inhabit, provides us with all the sustenance we need. But it does something far transcending this. Numberless, indeed, are the sources of knowledge, of delight, of love, with which it everywhere abounds; numberless, in truth, as are the sands on the shores of the great deep TREES SHRUBS CARPETING PLANTS A SCHHARACTER AND BEAUTY FLOWERS FRUIT STEM OBSERVATIONS SUBJECT ae ot ee M COLOR TIME FORM COLOR TIME FORM | COLOR TIME GedrusiLibani. 2... 2... Light au a 7 Bs | Dark and P—Permanent. Light : : Strong. Browns. Figures indi- cate the number of the month. Yellow. Coprighted 1898, by Jos. Forsyth Johnson, New Y. Can be supplied in books, containing adequate provisions for every subject. Prices on application, A SCHEME FOR THE SYSTEMATIC OBSERVATION OF PLANT CHARACTER AND BEA FOR STUDENTS, COLLEGES, AND PUBLIC SCHOOLS. . eid eee re a re oton a ie ae Cedrus Libani........ Tender and Fine. and Figs Fine. ant Sharp. EVERGREEN a TREES DECIDUOUS EVERGREEN a | DECIDUOUS EVERGREEN DECIDUOUS ail ited 1898, by Jos. Forsyth Johnson, New York, Landscape Gardener, All rights reserved. @ > r _ ee eat Shan a s poe “<2 -' ‘ 7 = 7 * > h 4 =" -- - ¥ | OFPAME PRN GAT AO aN OITA RTS | Ae ta Hem scribe Pata feevecal 1cleighasiesauiie rr aos aed oy ae sameigtal rave + nabroa ns worm a i i, Saoakonaad inienier y= Tout ; $a kere yt : 4! mite: ; bat : wesc pa A | pila 1 re | tome Cee, fiamnt'4e iy i r EVENT (gia aD a r a Cant Aare wes ia rae —— _omeilly ~ ipo oi geip ge ay a pe ” on =~ a . a - > =P NaS gees $ ae >, . a | bs > - S| - er — : : RESIDENTIAL. SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 41 itself. The earth is to many like an unexplored country, the mysterious recesses of which they have neyer striven to penetrate. A boundless kingdom of beauty, if only we had eyes wherewith to see it, stretches around us on every hand; a well-spring of joy, which subsists till earth’s loveliness pales around us and another life begins. It is said that at the sight of the Apollo Belvidere, the human body involuntarily erects itself, and assumes a more lofty attitude. And thus it is with objects which inspire us with just and true perceptions; they elevate our moral nature, and purify the heart. There seems, indeed, a sort of kinship between beauty and goodness, and where the one is we would fain discover the other also. Let us, then, strive to render our landscapes beautiful year by year—nay, rather day by day—and plan carefully before planting, so as to avoid alterations later. If ground be properly laid out, these will seldom prove needful; and should it, in any case, be found desirable to add new features this should be done as much as possible without disturbing older ones. We occasionally hear evergreens objected to, aS possessing, so to speak, too serious an aspect. But if fittingly arranged, the effects produced with their aid may be soft or bright at pleasure. They are not only lovely in themselves, but often alike afford shelter to other plants from winter’s blast or summer’s scorching ray. It is astonishing what a large number of growths there are that continue to gladden us throughout the year. Many of the very noblest forms of vegetation are evergreen, and some of these—Cedrus Libani, for example—are covered with a profusion of flowers in the early winter months. It is, perhaps, during this occasionally rather dreary period that evergreens appear to give us the greatest amount of pleasure. They shine brightly forth amid November's mists, seeming to gain fresh lustre from the moisture which envelops them. Should frost arrive, they will then be laden with glittering masses of exquisite beauty, the long, dark extended branches, as in the case of our larger Firs, contrasting most strikingly with the stainless whiteness of the new fallen snow. Evergreens, in fact, furnish nearly the principal effects during nine months of the year. I am of opinion that were the outlines in our shrubberies and gardens more generally planted with a view to winter effects, it would lead us thus to the introduction of many growths most suitable for our purposes in foregrounds as wellas in backgrounds. And Nature provides a rich abundance of structures adapted for our uses to show forth various phases of character, were we but to arrange them harmoni- ously and well. As regards carpeting plants, a very small space indeed, will sometimes suffice to yield the most charming results. The term, carpeting plants, I have ventured to apply to those various small growths that do, indeed, make it their principal object to carpet the ground. The name includes alpine plants, herbaceous, rock, bedding plants, and many others, and is used for convenience when referring to these low growths in general. Too often these are, as it were, dotted over the surface, instead of covering it asin Nature. If we have only enough for mere specks, it would be better to hold them in reserve until we had wherewithal to suffice, and had ascertained by observation the best situation in which to place them. There are, indeed, many herbaceous growths that would hold out most agreeably for a term of three years, or even a much longer period, as may be witnessed through- out Nature’s fair abodes. In other respects provision may be made for such plants as require special care, Endeavors are sometimes made in flower gardens to supplement the deficiency of brightness in winter by having resort to bulbs, shrubs, colored minerals, and such like, occupying with these the space usually filled by flowers in summer. Such results, however, should not be aimed at in too direct contravention of natural arrangements. They may sometimes prove desirable in contiguity to a mansion or to buildings where the outlines in winter foregrounds do not yield perfect satisfaction. Those plants which are productive of effects throughout the entire year are most justly subjects for our admiration, The Rhododendron, before commented on—the Yew, the Ilex, the Berberis—all 4.2 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS enchant us with their flowers and fruitage alike, while smaller growths of many and various kinds can be had recourse to in furtherance of our designs, and, when net in their special effect, give a base to the beauty of other growths. Nature’s operations are at once ever beautiful and ever sure. They repose on a basis firm as is the structure of the globe itself. Every plant we make the object of study is found to display a beauty of youth, of maturity, and of decline. The tender grass renders our valleys replete with verdure; trailing vines hang on many a tree; while in sequestered, shady nooks lurk Mosses and graceful Ferns. Many a hilly tract is covered by the Rhododendron and Kalmia, and far-extending slopes by the majestic Pine. High up on mountain sides peep forth sweet Alpine flowers, snow-protected during the greater portion of the year, and which appear as perfect miracles of loveliness in spring. We do not soon tire of plants that display beauties which are rare at the season in which they appear. The Snowdrop, for example, Crocus, Scilla, Violet, Anemone, Daphne, and Hepatica, are all effective in the extreme, and can be disposed so as not to interfere with other combinations. Grasses of various outlines impart an agreeable diversity. We need not always have recourse to ordinary grasses when so many other kinds exist—such as Festuca ovina, Carex pendula, and the lovely Gynerium argenteum (Pampas grass), Stipa pennata, and Pennisetum. The Vincas, more especially the varieties of Vinca minor, are very serviceable in places otherwise not suitable for grass. In some such I have seen the blue and white flowers of both green-leaved varieties and variegated endure the winter through. Ivies, which.Nature well knows how to handle, can be so disposed, both as regards outline and hue, so as to suit every curvature of the soil for covering land.- As a ground for other effects, Ferns, in shady dells and hollows where sufficient moisture abounds, most agreeably cover the soil. Many varieties of the well-known Cydonia, which have fine early flowers, and subsequently very curious fruitage, are well adapted for covering banks and other scenery. The different kinds of Amygdalus, although not permanent effective plants, might be much more extensively cultivated than they at present are. They can be planted with the greatest advantage in recesses and places not too conspicuous. And when their beautiful flowers appear, they claim a very high place in our estimation as harbingers of spring. J The various special beauties of a scene should succeed each other, so as not to destroy one another's effects by coming in opposition or together. As all outlines govern the scene, they should at all times possess an effect of their own, and also should be suitable for making all their various special effects complete in their respective seasons. Even deciduous scenes require some plants of an evergreen character, not only to assist their winter's effect, but to assist their development, and to impress their effects on the mind. ‘Therefore, it may be said that the boundary outlines of scenery always require assistance from permanent plants, either in the foreground or background of the scenes or outlines, or in both. Many books and catalogues enumerate the varieties of permanent plants, necessary for forming outlines and bases to scenery, as well as giving particular beauties of their own, varying in all sizes, from forms just veiling the earth to giants of majesty; and in the same sources of information, the less permanent varieties of effective plants, which are more or less temporary in their beauties, will be found noticed. All plantings should be allowed full justice, both for their growth and effects in the natural arrangement, without destroying the permanency of the general results. The equality or repetition given in technical art is completely. out of place in Nature’s effects.. In the undulations of vegetation and land, ever varying forms succeed each other in perfect balance and proportion, so that each plant, or group of plants, while being complete within itself, still lends its quota to the maintaining of the general effects; group succeeding group produces infinite beauty throughout the periods of the year. It will surprise those who have not arranged for perpetual beauty, how very few groups in the various lines of sight form a base and give a permanent character, leaving RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 45 room for the introduction of any special object that may be wanted. These bases should principally form part of the outlines or winter’s division of effects. The accompanying tables may assist some to divide their special effects into suitable periods. They are merely suggestive, and may be extended from the student’s own knowledge or observation. er EbCTAL- EFFECTS OF TREES AND. SHRUBS SHOWING HOW TO ARRANGE PLANTS FOR TIME EFFECTS. WINTER DIVISION. OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, AND DECEMBER. FEBRUARY, MARCH, AND APRIL. DECEMBER, JANUARY, AND FEBRUARY. Pyrus, scarlet berries Evergreens are now the jirinci- Amygdalus cochinchinensis Salix, of sorts * Betula, various * Cedrus Libani Persica, of sorts Sambucus, golden foliage in April Acer, do Populus, do pal effects, and possess many distinctive beauties. Garrya, of sorts (P) Azalea, Ghent varieties [Scarlet leaves] Althzea frutex Coronilla Emerus Monthly Roses Berberis Thunbergi Cotoneaster, various, fruit Pyracanthus, fruit Abelia floribunda Berberis, of sorts (P) Cydonia japonica Forsythia Daphne, of sorts Mahonia, of sorts (P ) Ribes, of sorts Persica, of sorts Jasminum nudiflorum Andromeda, of sorts ( P) Corchorus (Kerria) japonici. * SUMMER DIVISION. MAY, JUNE, AND JULY. JULY, AUGUST, AND SEPTEMBER. Dogwood Robinia, of sorts Crateegus, of sorts Catalpa Pyrus Aucuparia (Mountain Ash) #sculus hippocastanum Tree effects, even now, receive great assistance from Ever- green forms. Andromeda, of sorts (P) Amorpha fruticosa Azalea (hardy) Buddlea globosa Ceanothus, of sorts Clematis, of sorts Colutea, of sorts Coronilla Cytisus, of sorts Genista, of sorts Deutzia, of sorts Pyracanthus (P) Philadelphus, of sorts Peeonia, Tree Syringa, of sorts (Lilac) Sambucus, of sorts Spirzea, of sorts Rhododendrons (P) Rosa, of sorts Lonicera, of sorts (Honeysuckle) Abelia rupestris, June to Dec. uniflora. Clethra arborea Althzea frutex (in September) Genista sibirica and G. tinctoria Hydrangea Spireea, of sorts Clematis of sorts Passiflora, of sorts Names marked thus (* ) continue their effects until May. (P) means permanent or evergreen, 44. RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS SPECIAL EFFECTS OF CAKPETING Finnits WINTER DIVISION OCTOBER, NOVEMBER, AND DECEMBER. DECEMBER, JANUARY, AND FEBRUARY. FEBRUARY, MARCH, AND APRIL. Erica herbacea carnea* Chrysanthemum __ Vinca minor* ¥ minor alba* Rosa Aster, of sorts Tritoma Uvaria Gynerium argenteum The beautiful early leaves of— Aquilegia, of sorts Aconitum, of sorts Centaurea montana Lupinus, of sorts Verbascum Thapsus Peonia, of sorts* The flowers of— Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrops) Helleborus niger Arabis albida Antennaria margaritacea* (the leaves) Names marked thus (*) continue their effects until May. Anemone, of sorts* Hepatica, of sorts* Polygala Chamzebuxus Tris reticulata Narcissus in variety Tulipa, of sorts* Gentiana acaulis* Lithospermum prostratum Omphalodes verna Corydalis, of sorts Alstrémeria caryophyllea Ranunculus amplexicaulis Arabis albida* Scilla, of sorts* Erythronium dens-canis (Dog’s Tooth Muscari, of sorts [ Violet) Fritillaria, of sorts SUMMER DIVISION. MAY, JUNE, AND JULY. Cistus Helianthemum Erica multiflora alba —— multiflora rubra Pyrethrum, of sorts Viola, of sorts Peonia, of sorts Dianthus, various Linum, of sorts Phlox, of sorts (Alpine) Polemonium, of sorts Papaver, of sorts Lupinus, of sorts Cheiranthus alpinus Hieracium, of sorts (P), cover the ground from weeds Trollius (golden cups of flowers in May) Veronica spicata Lilium undulatum (scarlet) Orobus atropurpureus (dark) (E£nothera, of sorts Funkia, of sorts Hemerocallis, of sorts Lilium, of sorts Tris, of sorts Asphodelus, of sorts Convallaria (Lily of the valley) Hesperis, of sorts Iberis, of sorts Anemone fulgens JULY, AUGUST, AND SEPTEMBER. Erica cinerea Erica coccinea Erica Tetralix pallida Erica vagans Potentilla, of sorts Polygonum, of sorts Bedding plants Annuals Hollyhocks Lobelia, herbaceous varieties Tradescantia, of sorts Oxalis lasiandra Campanula, of sorts Anchusa semperflorens Pentstemon, of sorts Phlox, of sorts Astrantia, of sorts Verbascum, of sorts Veronica, of sorts Salvia, of sorts Arundo conspicua Scabiosa, of sorts Antennaria margaritacea Linum, of sorts Coreopsis, of sorts Calliopsis, of sorts Helianthus Lilium, of sorts Czackia Liliastrum Epilobium, of sorts Funkia subcordata Colchicum, of sorts Digitalis, of sorts Statice, of sorts Stipa pennata Spent filipendula Gunnera, of sorts Lathyrus, of sorts Monarda, of sorts Lythrum, of sorts AUTUMN EFFECTS The hues worn by the trees in the Fall afford a most valuable feature for effect. The Maples, Oaks, and others, assume the very richest tints. As on a soft bright day we survey some woodland scene, bathed in golden sunshine, with leafage all aglow, it would seem almost as though some high festival of Nature were in preparation to celebrate the happy fruitions of the year. Different varieties of what are termed Ghent Azaleas, impart a very pleasing autumnal warmth by their leaves giving a bright scarlet; while among others Althea frutex displays its pretty blossoms, even as late as October and November. RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 45 What are commonly termed Monthly Roses will in mild seasons and in sheltered situations, yield abundant flowers throughout October, November, December, and January; and in most gardens a place suitable for these plants can be found. It will often prove advantageous to have some early Chrysanthemums, in spots not too conspicuous, however; the pompon varieties can be drawn from, and yield a wealth of bloom. Large groups of Tritoma Uvaria afford an excellent display, and, when in good condition, the foliage proves effective during a great portion of the year. The flowers them- selves, indeed, are very handsome, and often a single plant will present as many as thirty spikes at one and the same time. Many places may be suitably occupied by these plants, which harmonize well with more permanent growths, Andromeda floribunda, and others, will further assist the autumn and winter effects. The colored stems of some trees, those of the Willows and Betula alba, for example, often help to brighten our winter landscape; and the Dogwoods (Cornus), are excellent in park scenery. Combined with Pines they are very effective. Deutzia crenata flore-pleno has a pale yellowish bark in winter, and much variety in this respect exists amongst deciduous growths. Jasminum nudiflorum is of great importance as regards the winter effects of climbers. MIDWINTER EFFECTS The months of December, January, and February need not prove so deficient in the matter of flowers, as the general aspect of gardens at this season might imply. Not very much choice have we, it is true; still, there are plants enough wherewith to create a most agreeable diversity. Nor need these winter arrangements interfere with later ones. In sheltered spots a number of plants will thrive throughout most winters, and, should an exceptionally severe season ensue, and they should run any tisk of perishing, we can always yield them sufficient protection. Generally speaking, however, the ground, when properly handled, will afford the best shelter. Plants, again, when arranged according to natural exigencies, do much to shield and protect one another. But tender plants, of small size, exposed in our grounds in winter, often require—and, indeed, imperatively demand—as much heedful care as do our Geraniums within doors, to prevent them from being dug over and buried in the ground. I have watched the unfolding of the white and blue flowers of Vinca minor, and Vinca minor alba, from autumn until late in spring. In sheltered spots, indeed, numerous plants display their flowers throughout the winter months. There are, again, growths which exhibit their beautiful leafage. Such are various forms of Aquilegia (leaves coming like Roses), Lupinus, Aconitum, Centaurea montana, Antennaria margaritacea (like tips of snow), and others. Many varieties of Ferula and Arum deserve attention, also various herbaceous Pzeonies, with their ruddy young leaves, and later foliage as bright as that of Irisine. The dark evergreen foliage of the Christmas Rose, or Helleborus niger, used in proper proportion, will much enhance many winter effects. The garden must indeed be small where some few square yards of space cannot be conceded for such subjects as these. Not very exacting in respect of nourishment, they can often be seen doing well in a poor, dry soil. Eranthis hyemalis (the Winter Aconite), even in early January, will often be covered with a perfect profusion of golden flowers. And along with the flowers of autumn and winter effects come the berry-bearing plants, which impart a very pleasing aspect. Were we, in truth, but so minded, our grounds in winter might yield very many more effects than what is commonly the case. SPRING EFFECTS Various species of Prunus givea fine display of white flowers in Apriland May. Varieties of Persica and Mespilus prove charming, small-sized, early flowering trees. Then, to speak of shrubs, we have Abelia floribunda, many kinds of Berberis and Daphne, the golden-flowered Forsythia viridissima, 46 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS and F. suspensa, and the Andromeda, Cydonia japonica (and varieties) is an extremely handsome plant, producing an abundance of scarlet or white flowers. It also admits of being trained into the most formal shapes, so as to suit an Italian garden. Its curious autumnal fruitage harmonizes well with the quaint architectural recess. Many varieties of Cydonia do best in sheltered portions of the shrubbery, where they often assume the most fantastic forms. é There are various growths which might be arranged so as most beneficially to occupy the ground and foregrounds, and many of these might be so disposed as to grow up through small carpeting plants, grouped according to character; such as Crocuses, Snowdrops, Hepaticas, Anemones, Iris reticulata, Tulips, Scilla; while such as Myosotis, Gentiana acaulis, the beautiful blue Omphalodes verna, and others, would form carpeting groups themselves. The numerous kinds of Primrose and Polyanthus, in certain situations, constitute a perfect delight in the spring by the abundance of their flowers, and, when the summer comes, their leaves often serve as a capital margin: The Cheiranthus alpinus produces an excellent effect in spring, and the curious evergreen leaves are often serviceable when arranged with other plants. The Phloxes possess many beautiful effects. Many other plants there are, however, which I have not enumerated, but which might be grown with every advantage during the early months of the year. Snowdrops, as well as other bulbous growths, can be planted in abundance midst the grass of shrubberies and parks, and round borders and beds, in more formal arrangements, and this without interfering in the least with the larger occupants of the soil; we can always prevent their being injured by any digging operations. It would prove very desirable were these growths permitted a longer period—say a week or a fortnight—in order to ripen their foliage. Were this done, a greater number of bulbs and finer flowers the next year would prove the result, than when the leaves are allowed to be cut off before being dead. Erythronium dens-canis will be itself most serviceable when not inter- fered with. Iris reticulata is an early flowering bulbous plant, not sufficiently cultivated. Anemones, again, would cover with great advantage much of the apparently barren ground which gardens are wont to exhibit in the early season of the year. Many of the plants that bloom early will continue to display their flowers, such, for example, as Arabis, Myosotis, and others. The beautiful effects of Horse Chestnuts, at this period, have always been justly admired; they are commonly found to sustain very strong blasts indeed, but the delicate Acacia, which begins to flower much about the same time, will need very careful and tender handling to select a place sheltered from wind. .In return it will richly reward us with its graceful leafage, and flowers of many a hue. The different species of Crateegus, Syringa, and also Cytisus (Laburnum), are very lovely objects when fittingly displayed. Later in the season, we have Roses which, with their rich variety of tints, prove perfect fountains alike of beauty and of perfume. Many hardy specimens of Azalea unfold their flowers early in summer, as likewise plants belonging to the following genera: Ceanothus, Clematis, Kalmia, Buddlea, Sambucus, Lonicera, late varieties of Spirezea, Jasminum, and Philadelphus. Places for these—and many more besides—can be found in a garden of very moderate dimensions, in the outlines of the scenes, without in any way interfering with other or subsequent effects. PART IT PLANTING ANB INTR@EDECTION TO GNDELATIONS PLANTING N PREPARING land for planting we have to take a general view of the land and water and sky | surrounding. When these are brought into harmony with the silent life of plants they give breath to our worldly existence. When these elements have grown together and formed their pictures in their own way ages will often been taken to produce some of their wonderful effects; but when man’s helping hand is added to natures unthought of and quick results are produced. Lookin any well planted land and you will find springing forth to satisfy man’s desire for beauty, the whole world’s efforts within a given range of temperature. For instance, Japanese plants help out the native flora in almost every garden in the temperate zone. When we leave the hard ground to plant itself, it is only after ages of successive creation and destruction that lovely local beauty appears, but in order to gain the essence of the world’s beauty quickly, man’s efforts must be introduced to assist nature. To be able to thin out thickets and woodlands, or to properly plant land, a knowledge of plant requirements is necessary. To develop the beauty of the land it is necessary to understand the power of perception of the human eye; its angles of observation, and its limits of discernment; and to be able to grasp the natural pictures that every piece of land possesses. Knowledge of the character of the components of a picture is absolutely necessary for its appreciation, and to propeily produce various and impressive effects. When the wants of any particular spot are known, you will be in a position to begin to develop them. Before commencing to prepare a piece of land for planting, roads for the intended objects should be laid out, for the land devoted to these must not be sub-soiled. Plants set out in unprepared land grow by inches, while those planted in properly prepared ground grow by feet. Land for production of trees and shrubs ought, as a general rule, to be prepared at least three feet deep; of course there are a few exceptions, such as low lying bottom land, that lies near the water level; land on the tops of rocks, and very steep land liable to wash away (such land is easily held up by proper planting). Trenching land with good spade men is the best way of preparing it for our purposes, but of course it is expensive, nevertheless nurserymen in England do it for business purposes. I have had trees (Eucalyptus globulus) grow eighteen feet six inches in one season. In preparing land not previously trenched, care must be taken to keep the top soil near the surface, as it takes considerable time for soil to become aerated sufficiently for it to be in best con- dition for plant growth. When the practice of deep plowing first came into use, many farmers made the mistake of turning the bottom soil to the surface at the first turning, thereby having to wait some time for results. It is a very well known fact that a rich mud taken from a farmyard pond will not grow weeds the first six months, but afterwards, when aerated, it produces growth so luxurious that it makes our old acquaintances appear as new species. The cheapest way to prepare land is to double plow it by taking a good, suitable plow for the land, one that will go as deep as possible, upwards of a foot, which is followed by a sub-soiling plow working in the trench formed by the first plow, going as deep as possible, upwards of two feet. Sufficient horse power must be used to do the work in hand; two horses generally will work the first 50 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS plow and four the second. After the plowing is done the general drainage requires attention. The low water-logged land requires to be suitably tiled. A very first consideration must be given to all land as to how to prevent accumulation of water, so that no rivulets or washings are formed in the heavy rains. This is very easily cone by having suitable catch-pools to receive the water in proper places, and in sufficient number, conducting the water into suitable waterways. When this is accomplished all the good soil ought to be taken from the road sites and placed on the land allotted for the planting of the principal trees and shrubs; by this means the principal features of planting can be made very effective at comparatively small cost. When we have determined to develop our land, the first problem to be settled is: Where shall we build and plant, where shall be the grass, water, and roads, to harmonize naturally and eventually give us a perfect picture? By planting in the usual way, z. e., mixing plants together regardless of size and requirements, they grow into masses which destroy their natural beauty, forming shapeless clumps and failing to show the true characteristics of the component individuals. In many grounds where attempts have been made to show the beauty of vegetation, this clumping together is held up to public admiration. Of course, the vista of leaves and opened spaces retained near our large towns delights the eye, and the ordinary observer is liable to be satisfied with these until he discovers what are the unnatural effects of plants, for these clumps die away at the bottom, and when their beauty should be developed, they exhibit stumps of trees and shrub stems, perhaps only with mop heads of branches and leaves, or a few of these on one side only. Planting in properly prepared land gives results beyond general expectation. The writer has seen a Holly hedge planted without any preparation, which kept so very small that it was hard to tell, after several years’ existence, whether the plants had not grown smaller instead of larger; whereas, another Holly hedge, planted in the immediate vicinity, and at the same time, produced an excellent fence, compact and close, ten to fifteen feet high, a difference due solely to the preparation of the soil. It is nothing extraordinary for well planted Hollies to grow three feet in a season. The father of fishing (Izaak Walton) said that ‘‘ Hollies produced the quickest fences.’’ When I planted the railroad gardens at the stations between Atlanta and Savannah, although set out in the month of May and June many of the trees made five feet growth the first season, particularly the Poplars and Willows; a result due solely to proper preparation of the ground. HOW TO PLANT Deep planting means ruin to the tree. The original roots die, and if the tree overcomes this bad planting, it does so by forming new roots on its buried stem. This detail is important, and its importance can be easily understood by taking up a deep-planted tree after three years have passed (often more time is required to start real growth after bad planting), when no marked advancement can be observed. Examine the natural growth of our forest trees, and you will find their roots start right at the surface of the ground; as for example in the Ash (Fraxinus). They seem to delight in forcing their roots on the very top of the land before descending Roe eR ES Or ees = al into the earth. In the accompanying illustration is shown the depth to which the natural surface roots should be planted, they should be only just deep enough to be covered with soil not more than two or three inches below the finished surface of the planting ground. Before setting the plant in the ground, examine the roots, and should any bad or injured ones exist, remove them by a clean cut with a sharp knife (the nipping tools, scissors, ete., are apt to crush the tissues and open the way to decay). In pruning the roots of trees, a RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 51 be sure to only remove the damaged ones; don’t form the opinion that the roots must be cut into a nice round ball, and remember that every fibre removed takes away from the plant one of its natural means of sustenance. In transplanting deciduous trees their heads should only be slightly reduced; the cutting of tree tops to the hard stem is absolutely wrong, for where a cut is made into old established wood there will remain an opening for disease for all time, and if a so-called good head be formed it is invariably broken by wind or snow sooner or later. When you show the ordinary man how to plant properly, he cries out at once; ‘‘Oh! the wind will blow it over;’’ but no deep planting will prevent the wind injuring a newly set plant with a large head unless it is properly protected: so, after planting, allow no time for the wind to sway the plant and thereby injure the roots. The first step adopted by all good planters is to make a soft collar, which is placed around the stem, as shown in How to Tie. This collar can be made of soft ropes or the edgings of Cuba matting, and from it the wire or cord is fastened to stakes driven into the ground, as shown in same figure. The collar is to be somewhat loose to prevent its injuring the bark of the tree. It is advantageous to mulch newly planted subjects, and supply sufficient water to keep the roots damp; no mere surface water will suffice. To water satisfactorily and well all good planters form a “dish” or ‘‘saucer” for a short distance around the stem by raising a miniature bank of earth three to four inches high, to hold the water applied, thus enabling it to settle to the roots. (See figures below. ) WATERING When your plant is getting dry is the time to water again. Evening is the best time, but rather than see the plants die in mid-day for want of it, water then. Roots require to be kept damp until plants start into growth, but care must be taken to avoid chilling them. In very dry, hot weather, and in a sandy soil, they may require water two or three times a day, while in other cases once a week may be enough. The greatest advantage to plants is gained by keeping the foliage damp until they start into growth. At the last Paris exhibition this was the plan adopted in order to quicken growth. Great repute was gained by producing established trees at once; that is absolutely necessary to attain good effects around large buildings, mere beds of Cannas alone will not accomplish this. GOOD AND BAD PLANTING It is a generally recognized rule in planting, whether of trees, shrubs, or smaller growing plants, that in order to obtain their greatest development, there should be three feet of soil allowed, and for the perfection of trees it is an absolute necessity. This is especially the case in a climate, such as ours, with plenty of hot sunshine which often dries up the land to a depth of six inches or more. For general planting, trenching the area will be sufficient preparation of the land; but when great effect and quick results are wanted it is often necessary to add good soil. The surface addition of soil as explained later is not a very expensive proceeding. THE BAD SYSTEM Our sketch shows an ordinary, but incorrect, method of increasing the available soil for trees and shrubs. In preparing the ground in this way the foot depth of surface soil—more or less—(marked B) is thrown to one side, and two feet of the subsoil (C) are dug out and carted away; good new earth is brought in to fill up, the top soil just removed being included, and the whole finished off with a rounded top as shown. Now this system has very objectionable features; in the first place, the new material being surrounded with the hard pan of the original soil is apt to sour, especially when, 52 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS as is often the case, the roots do not occupy the soil during the first year; secondly, when the roots do occupy the soil they soon exhaust the available food supplies and extending ever outwards they have to enter the till, when the vigor of the tree is arrested and its general health suffers, because the roots will lack the aeration so necessary to their well being. As regards the surface of the bed; the form here depicted is bad because its shape tends to throw off the water from where it is wanted. In ali plantings, whether on the level or on hillsides or hilltops, it is always necessary to make due arrange- ments for the retention of water. THE GOOD SYSTEM The method now recommended (see sketch below) has proved itself to be a worthy one in the hands of all who have honestly carried out its principles, but failure has followed where attention has not been paid to the surface, and it has been finished off as just explained. Instead of digging Bad Planting Good Planting out two feet of the sub-soil, as in A, we merely trench it up to a depth of two feet; in planting, the surface soil, and a certain amount of carted soil is built up on the top as is shown in the cut (two feet being added), thus providing the requisite depth of three feet. By this means the roots are allowed freedom of growth and can easily spread through the surface soil, which is well aerated and the food supplies are not so easily exhausted. When necessary, in the course of time, after the roots have spread themselves through the added soil, the bank may be built up with good soil, as is shown by the lines E, merely taking off the sod and carting in the new material. This is a method which has been found most advantageous in dealing with the keeping up of large specimens, and is called the ‘‘ piece- meal” system. The formation of the top of the bed as shown, is a feature to be closely regarded as the slight cupping is invaluable as a means of holding water. Finally, the pictorial effect of trees, shrubs and flowers in general thus planted, as seen from the roadway, is greatly superior to that obtained by the othermethod. The trees will thrive and the immediate results are finer than would be obtained by the ordinary method after two or three years of waiting. And, after all, this is but following Nature, who increases the available soil by surface additions; she does not dig holes. TRANSPLANTING TREES AND LARGE PLANTS T IS frequently necessary, in order to give an appearance of finish and establishment to a new | place, to resort to the transplanting of large trees from other quarters, and indeed in our opinion, if the new place be any but a very small one, it is always advisable to put in a few good sized trees. In cases where this is not done at the first, the owner feels very soon that there is an absence of shade and a too great appearance of newness in the garden, to remedy which all the bother of transplanting large specimens has to be endured at a time when the garden should have been completely established, Now, it is very easy to make either a good or a bad job of the work in hand, and provided that due regard has been paid to the selection of the specimen and also to the proper preparation of the ground (as previously set forth), success or failure may be said to depend on the care and attention given to the digging up of the tree from its old quarters. The one thing to be observed is that the young roots and rootlets be damaged as little as possible, as it is by these alone that a plant absorbs nourishment from the ground—not by means of the old stout roots which only serve to support the trunk and head and to act as channels for the materials taken in at the tips of the roots. The illustration (Fig. 1), shows the natural spread of the roots as far as the trenches marked H, which is the proper place for the digging down to be done. This would leave an excessive amount of earth in the ball, which would render removal very difficult, and there is also the danger of the ball splitting into two and thus a portion of the fibrous rootlets would be torn off. Practice teaches us that a smaller ball is better, and if of the size as shown by F, a sufficiently large ball will be left, providing the spreading roots are taken up as shown at B, in fig. 3. The error usually made is in merely cutting down at the point F, by which method, as will be easily seen, the ends of the roots are cut off and the tree appears as in A (Fig. 2). The natural result is that there is too much leaf transpiration for the reduced roots to cope with and the tree becomes sickly. Asa remedy, in common practice, the top is cut back and a mere stump is seen, which is not nearly so good for the production of a fine specimen as a younger tree would have been. When trenched as at H (Fig. 1), the soil to be removed is, with a steel fork, gently pulled away from the roots, leaving them comparatively uninjured, and the tree is lifted with the same sized ball of earth as in the other case, but the fibrous roots are retained beyond it. These roots can be bundled together as their ramifications will allow, then each string of roots being covered with moss, mats, or bags, as circumstances deman<, is tied up to the trunk, as shown in B (Fig. 3). The roots may, by this means, be kept damp until the tree is replanted. In replanting plenty of sharp sand should be on hand to work amongst the rootlets as you proceed, since it induces the formation of fresh rootlets, as all propagators well know. Fine leaf-mould is also very advantageous; we usually run it through a riddle to get it fine enough to work in among the rootlets. The roots should be laid out radially from the main stem of the tree on a nicely prepared bed of soil, only laying enough roots to slightly cover the ground, then working in among them a little 54: RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS of your sand and leaf mould as they seem to require; cover all over with a few inches of soil and prepare another bed, laying out more roots as you did before; thus spreading tier above tier yer: Oe “s of a 7 Fig. 1.—The proper (H) and improper (F) trenches for removing a large tree Fig. 2.—Improperly removed tree Fig. 3.—Properly removed tree with all its roots attached until all the roots are firmly replanted in as natural a manner as possible, finally beating or treading down the soil, but being careful not to injure the roots in so doing. The transplanting principle is, taking care of the plant’s small rootlets, for these are the feeding powers of the plant. NATURAL MASS PLANTING LANTING is in reality like the painting of an artist. It is nct mere imitation; the infinite Pp impulse is realized by the impressions developed in the lights and shades of plant character, of land, and of water. A few acres of well laid out grounds contain more landscape pictures than all the canvases of the world portray. Planting as shown in Fig. 1 causes so much destruction to plant beauty that it is entirely useless. The common reply of the planter who adopts this method is: ‘‘We do it toform a blind.” But the plantings signally fail of their purpose; the bottoms of the plants die away, and you see right through them. No blind can be made except by proper undergrowth, rising from the ground to at least five feet in height. a fice £ = Fig. 1.—A commonly seen jumble, in which Fig. 2.—Skeleton for natural group plant- : : : ; sooner or later the lower parts become ing. The lines show places for low Fig. 3—Group planting on natural lines; age bare and easily seen through growing planting adds to its effectiveness The beauty of light and shade in natural mass planting is very charming, and gives many surpris- ing and delightful effects. Figure 2 shows how to prepare ground for such natural mass planting; the lines indicate the views to be kept open by planting thereon only low growing forms of a nature suitable for carpeting the ground. The dots on these lines represent stakes placed in the ground before starting to plant, and indicate the portions reserved for low growing subjects. Figure 3 shows the method of natural planting in a very simple form, and this style of planting is so full of capability that no two groups need ever be alike. It also shows a tree and a few shrubs forming a mass dense enough to blind anything beyond if rightly planted. A Linden tree (Tilia europea) is grouped with a few Rhododendron catawbiense (Catawba Roseberry) and Kalmia latifolia (Mourtain Laurel); the tall columnar plant is intended to represent Juniperus chinensis (the Chinese Juniper), and the ground is fully carpeted with Juniperus prostrata, a beautiful native species. Among these can be set the woodland flowers, Foxgloves, and other strong growing plants, which 56 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS give fine summer and autumn blooms. ‘The Rhododendron supplies flowers in early summer, the Chinese Juniper forms perfect golden columns in spring, and the Kalmia latifolia has also beautiful flowers. The evergreen character of this group would make the arrangement permanently effective, and, of course, the desideratum of all gardens, spring flowering bulbs on the margin. In natural planting it is possible that more plants are used than in the unnatural clumps to which we have been objecting. The difference between the two methods is that in bad planting too many trees and large subjects are used, while in good planting we utilize forms that grow to different heights, and are very careful not to select too many large growing subjects; we also plant those that will carpet the whole ground so that no objectionable feature can exist. NATURAL GROUPING IN BOUNDARIES N PLANTING grounds it is easy to say, ‘‘ plant so many acres of Beeches, so many acres of Pines, each by themselves,” but in developing the beauty of land and plants we require something more than this; each tree should form a feature of its own, undoubtedly, but it should also unite its effects to other characters in the surroundings; this plan is so arranged, showing that variations depend upon the circumstances, the size and the wants of the object. The forms of beauty in Nature are infinite, and to develop them to their fullest extent efforts have long been made in various schemes of tree planting. In any circumscribed area the one great feature to be borne in mind is the hiding, or indeed complete destruction of the effect of limitation which is not always done by the weak attempts at planting ‘‘ boundaries” to gardens and parks. Such attempts are generally failures as they plainly exhibit the boundaries which it was intended they should hide. The effect should be to carry the line of sight beyond the limits planted, and make the nearer portions appear to be in unbroken sequence from the distance. The art of arrangement in landscape art is essentially the revealing of the natural beauties of whatever is employed in the composition. All plants possess characters especially their own, and the use of an individual, in order to display its characteristics of beauty, depends entirely on how it is placed in relation to other individuals or masses. In the development of land by landscape gardening a due knowledge of the requirements of your object is necessary. Given this knowledge it is a comparatively easy matter to select suitable subjects for the development; everything has its proper place, and it is the skill of selection which is the basis of the art to which we refer—the art of so placing your plants as to reveal in their true propor- tions the characteristics of each. When trees are planted closely in a continuous belt so as to hide the boundary the result is that after a few years the trees are, owing to crowding and other reasons, bare of leaves and branches in the lower portion. The eyecan easily penetrate the *‘screen,” and the very things which were to have been blocked out are laid bare to the view. DEVELOPMENT OF OUTLINES As brick and stone form buildings, so the variations of curvature build natural undulations that impress man according to his powers of perception. In planting a boundary there is but very rarely any necessity to adopt the principle shown in A—a straight monotonous arrangement—for a slight gently sweeping curve can be as easily utilized, as, for instance, at D. At Cis shown what is another very simple development from the straight line, but, of course, more advanced than D. In E and F are two types of continued curve, F being what should be most strenuously avoided; it is Development of Outlines (see text) 58 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS the broken curve, that is to say the line instead of being gently progressive is abruptly broken at its change of direction, and so the continuous sweep is destroyed. In driveways this is not only bad in effect but decidedly dangerous. Nature covers the ground with plant life, and no true arrangement for artistic effect can do less. Ornamental borders which consist very often of large patches of open soil dotted here and there with plants, are wrong in any broad scheme. Such a borderis indeed only to be used in some out of the way place for experiment purposes, comparison, or where beauty is subservient to utility. Examples: the kitchen garden, or a botanical collection. The greatest of injury is done to the plants themselves, and at the same time the complete obliteration of their artistic possibilities is obtained by planting in continuous straight lines through the mere fact of crowding into a given space more trees than it can properly develop. To correct such errors has been the aim in the plans in the present series, In permanent planting, where the whole is to be seen from many and every varying points of observation, each view line should show perfect outlines of its subjects—the trees, shrubs, and flowers and distinctive features whether it be taken high or low. Special attention, indeed, should always be paid to the natural development of the outline of every plant that rises above the carpet level. If this be neglected and crowded grouping is followed the time will arrive when many of the most prominent objects will be injured by the encroachment of their fellows, resulting in a meaningless jumble, and a clashing of impressions. Such examples are far too frequent everywhere. In all good planting attention is required for the younger growth of early years—to remove plants placed for immediate effect as the permanent trees and shrubs advance. Local circumstances very often make one plant do better than another, therefore, a small amount of labor is necessary in the early years of planting, to do what may be called ‘‘touching up,’”’ developing the characters which it is intended shall be permanent on the land. The first object in planting on all grounds is to set trees, then plants growing to a lesser size, as trees growing to about fifty or one hundred feet high require space in proportion to their size, also space to be seen. ‘This leaves a great deal of ground unoccupied, which affords places for many other subjects that grow to a lesser dimension. In general, too many plants that grow to one size are placed together, and this sort of thing is very common in our parks and gardens. This is bad for artistic effect and very bad for the growth of trees and shrubs; every leaf of a plant is so beautiful and the love of Nature so keen that many people enjoy these outrages and do not realize how much greater beauty ought to be theirs. This ‘‘clump planting” appears more or less as fence lines in the distances, and when on a closer approach, they become foregrounds, the plants bear more likeness to the remains after a battle by the destruction of branches and leafage than to a park scene. We may often go through great quantities of planted grounds without seeing a single tree or shrub that we would say clearly illustrated the species to which it belongs. In going over these would-be-parks, where necessity has compelled many roads to meet, this compulsory leaving of space for the same has forced the giving of space for trees, and at such points of observation charming effects are given, but unintentionally. GROUPING VARIOUS EFFECTS INTO HARMONY Plan 9, now presented, is an endeavor to, in a way, explain graphically how to give effect to what is propounded. When successfully carried out the result is so pleasing, pictorially, and gives such an atmosphere of liberty that the onlooker is impressed with its harmonies without, perhaps, comprehending how the result is arrived at. In the best plantations, where the most natural effect is produced, it will be found that the boundaries are invariably invisible. The effect produced Mi, Plan 9.-Grouping Various Forms into Harmony . Three round figures, formed by planting an edging of Euony- mus radicans variegata, centre to be planted with scarlet Ger- aniums or other bright sum- mer flowers. The six small plants round to be Helleborus niger. . Three circles, edging as above, centre bright summer flowers; the six surrounding plants to be Tritoma Uvaria. . Three circles, edging as above, centres to be golden yellow flowers (Calceolarias or other). Surrounding six plants, Tree Pzonies. . Three circles edging as above, centres blue Plumbago capen- sis; the three surrounding plants to be Hemerocallis flava. . Seven plants, Daphne Mezereum. . Three Berberis Humboldtii. Polygala Chamzbuxus. . Trollius europzeus. . Ranunculus amplexicaulis. . Erica cinerea. . Alstromeria caryophyllza. . Vaccinium Vitis Idzea. . Anchusa semperflorens. . Yucca gloriosa. . Salvia patens. . Gunnera, in sorts, . Hollyhocks. . Asphodeline lutea, . Verbascum Thapsus. . Erica herbacea carnea. . Andromeda floribunda. . Lupinus polyphyllus. . Erica multiflora alba. ce “ rubra. REFERENCE TO PLAN ur . Ground covered by large tree, on paper, that no tree would cover on land; might be brightened by planting blue flowering plants in clumps, covering about a square yard of space (not form); Lithospermum prostra- tum. Aubrietia deltoidea, Gentiana acaulis, Iris reticu- lata. . Another variation of blues, He- patica triloba, Omphalodes ver- na, Veronica (dwarf growing sorts). . Helianthus multiflorus. . Jasminum nudiflorum. . Arc of circle in proportion to out- line of Iberis cordifolia. do Erica fragrans. do Sweet William, do Phlox (Alpine). do Stipa pennata. do Pansies. do double Rockets. . Epilobium angustifolia. 7. Scabiosa caucasica. . Tussilago fragrans. . Myosotis palustris. . Pentstemons in sorts. . Coreopsis lanceolata. . Lilium auratum. . Papaver orientalis. . Centaurea montana. - Corydalis of sorts. . Aconitum californicum. . Pzonia (herbaceous). . Statice latifolia. . Althzea frutex var. 50. Lilacs. 5t. Cydonia japonica, 52. Deutzia crenata. . Diervilla aborea grandiflora. S) An oan & WwW sss sl st os wo si o 0 81 $2. 83. . Forsythia Fortunei. . Philadelphus (large sorts). Dbl. flowering peaches. . Lonicera tartarica. . Common Yew. . Rhododendrons. . Hydrangea paniculata grandi- flora. . Golden Yew. . Bambusa Metake. . Erianthus Ravenne. . Eulalia japonica, and E. gracillima do univittata variegata. . Thuya var. Geo. Peabody. do Verveeneana. do siberica. . Sequoia sempervirens. . Paul's dbl. red Thorns. . Cerasus japonica pendula. . Abies pungens. . Tilia europea. . Spireea Humboldtii. . Phormium tenax. Biota aurea. . Cupressus Lawsoniana. . Pinus laricio. . California Privet. . A line of spring bulbs alternating in clumps of about half-dozen each, Winter Aconites, Snow- drops, Crocuses, etc. A carpets of Euonymus radicans, planted into a margin as shown, for flowers and foliage of such plants as Scillas, Erythronium dens-canis. Muscari, Tulips (hardy sorts), Fritillaria, bulb- ous Anemones, Narcissus, etc., to raise above. Delphinium elatum. Helianthus Maximilianus. Ee 61 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 2 acta or if ' \ a ; ct cand vom 63 aa ropryie! erin eng cies NA Key to Plan 9 62 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS upon the sense has its roots in the laws of perspective, light, and shade; these three elements in combination, sometimes one and sometimes another preponderating. The hundreds of combinations to be obtained from such an arrangement as now depicted will be apparent at a glance. The plan represents, roughly, an acre of ground on which the one side is planted with a view to hiding its boundary, but, at the same time, it also gives full scope to the display of the individual plant beauty. In the selection of the plants to be employed, having regard to the requirements for successive effects, we have adopted the time arrangement (for explanation see pages 43 to 46 Part I),”—the winter season is divided into three, and the summer intotwo. When the special effects of the growths of fiowers and foliage for the whole year are considered, the arrangement will be found more complete than those usually adopted. To help forward the development of effect, we suppose a temperate part of America and an ordinary winter, but the system takes advantage of all weathers. The following are the divisions of the month in selecting plants for permanent effects. December, January, and February have plantsas follows: Tussilago fragrans, Jasminum nudiflorum, Andromeda floribunda, Winter Aconites, Snowdrops, Helleborus niger, Arabis albida, etc. The months have to overlap each other, consequently the next period is February, March, and Aprii; double flowering Peaches, Berberis Darwini, Cydonia japonica, Forsythia, Daphne Mezereum and the many spring bulbs. In May and June we have the Hawthorns, Philadelphus, Lilacs, Pzeonies, Spireeas, Ericas, Lupinus, Day Lilies, Rhododendrons, ete. In July, August, and September we have Hydrangeas, Spireas, Clematis, Erica, Polygonums of sorts, Hollyhock and summer flowers generally. The division we now approach belongs to the first of the two winter divisions (October, November, and December). Erica herbacea carnea, Tritoma Uvaria, Helianthus Maximilianus. Cedrus Libani when established puts forth glorious masses of flowers in this pericd. Hardy plants have almost a resting period in mid-summer, so, for this lull, we have introduced into the border circles formed by edging of Euonymus radicans variegata, which are to be planted with bright summer flowers. These beds, so surrounded with permanent plants, will appear attract- ive the whole year, whereas summer flowers under other arrangements are no better than a ploughed field one-half of the year. The evergreens will be found to make a permanent ground, which will enchance the beauties of the summer plants, as well as form main features in the winter. The Sequoia develops into magnifi- cent pyramids, and the Blue Spruce gives most satisfactory results. The rolling masses of Rhodo- dendrons, the columns of Thuya and other plants have each their own style of effect. It will be understood that this is not a complete list of plants, but a type of a system of selecting plants, so that a perpetual and successional effect may be produced, a few tender plants are to be used for summer effect. From a distance, the whole planting shown in this plan would have the appearance of a shady mass, with broken high-running outline, due to the Limes placed on each side of the central walk and to the specimen Sequoias, etc., toward the boundary, each sub-division being a sub-center and giving its own character to the minor groups on acloser approach. The judicious mixture of ever- greens and deciduous trees in permanent planting provides for effect at all times of the year. ‘The isolation of the fine specimens, so that on a near approach their individual characteristics are apparent, is another matter which should receive the most careful consideration at all times. In the commence- ment of a plantation the correct thing is always to begin by placing the largest objects, since they will form the most prominent centres, and therefore should naturally have the prominent and largest places. After having done that work attention can be given to the shrubs and bushes, and so RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 63 on down to the smallest objects with which it is intended to clothe the soil at the junction with the grass tract in front. Evergreen plants should always be placed toward the outside, because they give forth their foliage effects in the winter as well as in the summer, and the brilliancy of the latter season is much enhanced by the proper use of permanent evergreens; they also tend to provide shelter from storm and wind for the smaller, perhaps rarer specimens, and this in a way that stone or brick walls cannot do. Shrubs can always be very usefully employed as means to direct the sight to view lines, and also at the same time to hide any defects. A good arrangement should include a shrub to meet the eye at every point. The service of the tree is in combination with the sky line. Referring to the illustration, the large trees are not planted in rows, but alternately, every other specimen being brought forward from the background to assist the effect, of which we have already spoken, and at the same time this tree forms a starting point from which to develop a ‘‘run” of other trees, shrubs, and smaller plants, the arrangement being generally in threes. The whole arrangement, shows three group centres or promontories, and two recesses; the latter are composed of Yews and Thuyas planted to grow naturally. The boundary fence of California Privet, it will be observed, is planted with a varying outline, so that when it occasionally shows itself it will not appear a mere hedge. For further details see key plan and index. In order to, as it were, unite the whole, which is a very necessary consideration, Rhododendrons are used throughout, and no plant is better adapted to this purpose, and independently of that they are particularly valuable on account of the gorgeous flower heads which they produce. In order to veil over the ground after the manner of Nature herself, some carpeting plant should be selected after the general planting is done. There are many plants that are suitable for this purpose, but perhaps none more so than the popular Ampelopsis Veitchii (Boston Ivy). These plants can be kept within bounds, and should a stray shoot swarm the trunk of a tree and develop its leafage high up in the air, festooning a branch or so of its support in the fall season, the color effect will be by no means a detraction. GROUPING TREES A true landscape effect owes its being to the grouping and harmonies of masses of light and shade, of form, and color; a characteristic view should be presented from any distance and from all points, ever varying, ever changing, season by season. Each constituent featare, every shrub or tree ought to present a due relation to its neighbors and have its proper place in the whole; to use Goethe’s words: ‘‘We never see anything isolated in nature, but everything in connection with something else which is before it, beside it, under it, and over it.” Never set a plant in the ground without some purpose, and never use two plants to do what could be done by one such, remembering always to plant firstly for the future, and space enough will remain for obtaining immediate effects, for permanent planting requires space for its future develop- ment. The illustration, Plan 10, now presented will serve to give some idea of the practical application of the principles which should underlay all planting operations; this plan is intended to show how to plant, not illustrating any one of the hundreds of effects such a piece of work will produce, The ground is 4oo yards long and is but a small portion of any park land. From a long distance view there would be two proportionate masses in the general landscape, together with the sky, whereas when nearer a new view would spring from every new point of obser- vation, and the lines of sight marked reveal twenty-six leading views, each of which can have a particular value of its own and contain many variations. Perfect trees produce masses infinitely superior to mere seed beds of sticks so often seen in park planting. A mass of trees cannot be seen except at a distance proportionate to the size of the mass; 64 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS thus trees 80 to 100 feet apart, properly arranged, will appear as a mass from the distance views. Where there are objectionable features they should be judiciously planted out, and blinds—that is small plantings to serve this purpose, must be employed, but should not have the appearance of being Plan 10 —Grouping Various Trees Together in’ Planting set in for that special purpose. Shrubs can thus be used and should be placed in the fore front of the sight line, displaying all their beauties to our gaze. It would be very wrong to plant trees because in a few years they will have attained a fair height, and there isan open view right underneath them, injuring other plants, perhaps, destroying the landscape effect, and necessitating a rather heavy expenditure to remedy. RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS 65 SLOPING BANKS Planting sloping banks and hill sides can easily be done by stepping the banks where the plants are wanted. This is done by cutting away a part of the bank and bringing the stones and soil to the front, building it up as is indicated herewith ; = this makes a much prettier and more showy ground than = when they have been set right into the original slope. In Ned further illustrations of this principle and applying the Wo is Seow rules we have already laid down for planting trees, two representations of planting on slopes or hill sides are now given. The present figures merely show the correct and improper methods of forming the bed which is to receive the specimen. The whole question resting on the arrange- ment for the retention of water. The fact that the rounded top as shown at A is wrong and must give dissatisfaction cannot be too strongly urged. If the bank be constructed as there shown, there will be too much drainage for the trees to become well estab- lished, as has been explained when referring to the shapes of the tops of beds, but if, on the other hand, the tops of the Planting on a Slope bank be shouldered as at B, a good roothold is easily gained and the otherwise excessive drainage of surface waterings reduced to a minimum. The illustrations are so self-explanatory that further details are unnecessary. Sometimes a slope, when there is much ground above and behind it is not so dry as would at first sight appear, because of the leakage of water from the higher ground. This fact can be taken advantage of and very effective plantings made. In grouping on slopes, this system will be found very effective in results. It will be well at this time, however, to point out also that the best effect of a planted bank is not to be obtained by the employment of one sized tree only, but that if a back row of trees, with a middle-distance of shrubs of lower growth be used, and then a grass slope in the front edging right down on to the walk, the pictorial effect is very greatly increased—and in all planting this should always be kept in view. PLANTING BORDERS In all things a proportion is necessary; in size as well as balance. When we look at parks and grounds of large extent we see narrow borders for hardy herbaceous plants on the roots of shrubs and 66 RESIDENTIAL SITES AND ENVIRONMENTS trees, about three feet wide, such as you would expect ina villa garden. We see at once that these borders are not in proportion to the ground, and that they have not space to adequately exhibit the beauties of hardy flowering plants. Plan 11 is to show a suitable arrangement for hardy flowers in large grounds; say a border is supposed to be about twelve yards wide, so that you have space to show large noble herbaceous plants harmonizing with their surroundings. In commencing to lay out such an one its own effects should firstly be developed, namely, its long and broad views, as shown by lines on plan; these should be defined by planting permanent plants, generally shrubs of an evergreen character, then by watching the shrubs formed by the lines already named, a great number of effects to further develop will be seen, Every land, small or large, has these views of masses and extent, they are only the foundations for develepment, but without them what can stand? When you know the places for these pictures in lands it is possible to commence to place thereon the effects wanted. THE HERBACEOUS GARDEN AND BORDERS This is what may be called ‘‘the garden for the million,” or ‘‘every man’s garden.’ It is within the reach of almost everyone living in the country, and of many living in cities, to have a garden or at least a bed of this type. Some of the most beautiful examples of this kind of gardening are to be found among the poor cottagers in many parts of England. The plants used in the herbaceous garden need no greenhouse to produce them, and no expensive outlay to retain them. They can nearly all be raised from seed sown in the open ground if given reasonable and intelligent care, 7 The first point to be considered is the location of your beds, borders or garden. In choosing a site for this purpose, select a place where the plants may be seen to good advantage. In the modest cottage garden a border may be made by the side of a fence or building, or it may merge into a clump of shrubs. If possible give your border a background, or else plant in the form of a bed. The planting may be done either in the spring or the fall. If in the spring it should be done as soon as the frost is out of the ground; if in the fall the month of October is most suitable. The mingling of herbaceous plants with flowering shrubs gives good effects. We submit a simple plan of an herbaceous border, showing how a succession of bloom may be kept up fiom early spring until frosts come in the fall. This system of planting may be extended indefinitely by using a large number of species, or it may be modified to suit the most unpretentious garden. Instead of arranging the plants in the old-fashioned way, like the slope of a railway bank, we have planned to show their beauty and their charms in a natural way. We build no wall of shrubs for a background to the plants, but arrange them to present vistas, and then show the way to fill in with plants for effect. If the reader will locate any given number on the plan—for instance, Delphinium elatum (No. 1)—and then picture the length and continuity of view which this avenue of blue will present when in flower, he will all the more readily grasp the detail and appreciate the value of this plan. On the same principle the beauty and effectiveness of every form of flowering plant is revealed, each one in its season. It will be observed that this is accomplished by not allowing any tall plant to interfere with the massing and distant view lines. The growth of the shrubs selected should be allowed to commence from the ground, and, in general, rise to a height of not less than five feet. The numerous varieties of the Rhododendron are the best for this purpose. A reference to the plan shows the long views to be composed of Hollyhocks, Delphiniums, ete.; the general massing lines of Hydrangeas, Sunflowers, etc. Special plants are grouped in quantity in the middle of the border, for instance, Pzeonies. Near to the walk ample space is left for bulbous plants, such as Crocus, Snowdrops, Winter Aconite, Dog’s-tooth Violets, etc. ; these S4y1eq pue susepiey TIGNd A0J JASpszo~_M SnosocseqIisFT Su L— IT UeIa -——— See = - — = sme SS = = B = SS ~ —— mee? : a = = prea == — valuable species. See that strong growing plants are placed so that they do not cover or destroy the more delicate forms. A coating of leaf mold (mulching) placed over the roots of plants, with judg- ment according to the growth of the specimens at the beginning of winter, will save many gems. In addition to the species named in the plan there are many others that may be used to good effect, among which may be mentioned nearly all of the spring flowering bulbs, Narcissus, Scillas, Chionodoxa, Grape Hyacinths, Snowdrops, Anemone fulgens, Polygala paucifolia, Hardy Primroses, Auriculas, Blood root, Sempervivums, Houstonia coerulea, Silenes, and Smilacina racemosa. A rockery is one of the numerous possible forms of the natural garden.