Richard Archbold's Journal Second Archbold Expedition to New Guinea 23 January to 26 June 1936 January 23, 1936 This was supposed to have been k the day that we sailed but it was such a windy day that they could not load the aeroplane so we had to wate till tomorrow. It was a terribly cold day as well arid we nearly froze. All the water pipes were forzen which added to the discomfiture. I got down to the boat about noon or a little before to find Adrian and Joe waiting for me . I recieved a number of sailing presents abeht the most usefull was a gold pensil from Gug and Allie who also came down to see me off. Carl Chader and Johnney Lukas from 0. J.'s and Jack Gatty from Fairchild made up the rostrum of well withers. I stayed aboard for the night as I could see no reason for going back to the apartment . January 24, 1936 It was not quite as cold as yesterday and there was not as much wind, they got the plane on board about nine and we sailed at 11:55 I had forgotten to bring the typewriter, so Rinald made a wild dash and just made it as they were taking in the last rope and handed it up the sides Just before dropping the pilot we pased a Standard Oil tanker coming in literally plastered with ice the weather did not change much though it became cloudy in the evening. January 25, 1936 We got into Newport News some time around ten and I went ashore with the captain and the agent of the ship and went to the customs, after lunch I copied the authorizati n for our Bapuan flight for the benifit of the customs and tried to get in touch with Gough. I also took a short walk up to town and bought a magazine and a sewing palm. About six I met the agent and I took a chance of finding Gough at home by the time that I got there which was the case. I had a very nice supper with him. After supper. After supper he went off to get Russel and his wife whom had flowen down in a beechcraft with Chader. so we all had a pleasant evening . January 26, 1936 We left Newport news a little after nine. Gough, Carl and Russel's wife c%me down to see us off. It was a dull grey day very cold though it was somewhat due to the humidity for it was warmer that in Hew York. Very little doing on board. I read most all the time. Toward iks evening it began to thaw and the snow to melt off the decks. January 27, 1936 > Another grey day though it was decidedly pleasenter . did little except read. Hooked up or rather helped hook up the H. R.O. January"28, 1936 The early morning was cloudy but about nine thirty the sun came thorugh and remained out all day though there were numerous black clouds hanging about all day. The temperature was just right though there was a very desided smell of the tropic abuit. In the morning I shoved the Captain and the first officer the plane and got some clotheB out of my trunk also the roped for making the nets} at which job I s ,ent the Hvgxing afternoon aask±. In the morning right after breakfast there was fire and boat drill. I did not see a single bird to-day though I was not loking very hard. J January 29, 1936 The day has been cloudy all day with occasional breaks also one ro two drops of rain . I saw the first flying fish this morning and and we went through the Crooked passage about ten this morning. We have seen only two other freight boats. I spent most of the morning making rope nets untill my hands comenced to get sore Jaunary 3iD, 1936 About eight I saw a flock of f birds feeding to windward and a little latter I saw the first school of flying fish, this was the only one seen all day though I did see one or x two individuals. The day was fine and kfcx warm enough so that one felt better with ones coat off. I gave up the idea of making rope nets for dropping„ and decided to use slings as onenneeded about half the rope and it did not take so long to make, I figured 45 ft. as about the right length for a sling . There were very few birds seen all day enfact except for the flock at eight and one individual that hung over the ship for a tine I saw none. January 31, 1936. February 1, 1936, I did not write noteson* the 31's so I missed. We arrived off the northern entrance about senen in the morning and ent through the first or Gatun locks about nine thirty or ten oclock. There was a nice breeze blowing and we had no rain . We had a plesent voyage and got to Balboa .a little before six. I wated for a while for Mr. Vauhn to show up but as he didn't the Captain and myself went to the Onion Club, which was all right , that is the food etc., but not terribly exciting at least the Captain thought so at least it was cool and there crowd was decent in fact we were one of the few without mess jackets. Mr. Vauhn was on the Gatun locks unfortunatly on the opposite side and we could only hold a long distance con conversation, I understood him to say that he would see us on the other side (meaning Balboa). February 2, 1936 To-day has been the warmest day of the trip though it has not been realy hot . We left Balboa about seven and have been making £15 good tide with a fair current and wind, the morning run averaged 13.9 almost 14 knots. We saw the last of the mainland of North America this afternoon . I sent a radio to the Museum asking them to send the raidiu license for the ship to me care of the Vacum Oil Co. Brisbane . I saw occasional terns all day and one Frigate bird. Russ said he saw a n mber of pelicans as we were going out bf the harbour. February 3, 1956 There was less breeze than on any previous day so that it seemed hotter than usual. One or two birds were seen this morning and a number of flying fish all day but there has been very little doing all day. I di felt like doing something but could not make up my mind just what to obsxfl do, so I did nothing. I got a slight burn in the sun nothing searious. February 4, 1936 There was not much change in temperature, though a slight increas in cloudiness also slightly x less wind and xax swell. We saw more life to-day than yesteday. Te only onesthat L could recognise we e some Boobies and them I am not sure of which species, several were staning on floating logs. I saw a school of five or six whales they had a short blow pointing forward. The second saw two others which he said had a blow pointing straight up. The deck hands spent the afternoon getting the parts b£x for a swiming pool, out of the fore-peak. I notice in reading that I have forgotten t> put down the fact the I recieved a wireless for Don Upham and also the Explorers club wishing me good luck. S.S. SOMERSET Abstract log of voyage from ^//BALBOA ^ ^Towar d s ^ BRISBANE^ £ I0_ // Couse Various T j North Latitude^ 4c *< Best Longitude V9 47 ^ Distance 71 " Total Steaming Time Daily 5h.24m. " Total A,eE - iK&s.is " Total Current SetTidal " Drift Engines Rev75.i Slip Nil Miles71 Wind Direc. n.N.W. " Force4 Barometer 29.97 Temp. air 84 sea76 Seauoger . Swell Cond. Slight Directional 1 ly Various S64|W S 66 W' S 67$ W S 63 W S 65| W S 63 W S 64 W S 63 W 5° 26" 3* 10" 1* 07" South . 0* 45 2 * 58 " 5 * 13 " 7* 39“ 9* 55" 12 * 19 " 84* 13’ 88* 57' 93* 36 <0 CD • O -3. 102*32" 107* 29* 112* 15 116* 56' 121* 40" 308 314 305 293 296 326 319 309 314 379 693 998 1291 1587 1913 2232 2541 2855 24:44 24:28 24:18 24:18 24:18 24:18 24:20 24:18 24:18 30:08 54:36 78:54 103:12 127:30 151:48 176:08 200:26 224:44 12.46 12.83 12.55 12.06 12.18 13.42 13.11 12.72 12.92 12.58 12.69 12.65 12.51 12.45 12.60 12.68 12.70 12.72 fefi 12 S. 19 W N 27 E U 13 E N 53 E S 87 W S 71 W S 56 W S 50 W 12 5 4 22 10 22 14 4 8 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 75 4.9% 2.5 4.4 8.1 7.2 -2.2 0.3 3.1 1.6 395 717 1036 1355 1674 1995 2315 2634 2953 N.NW S x W SW S x E SE x S SE ESE E x S ENE ~ 2 2 2 3 4 3 4 4 4 29.93 29.96 29.99 30.02 30.07 30.16 30.20 30.21 30118 84 84 81 79 78 79 79 79 85 82 80 80 74 75 76 76 76 78 Smooth smooth Slight Slight Moder . Slight Mod. Slight Mod. Mod. Mod. Slight Slight Slight Slight Slight Slight Slight Slight SSE SE SE Conf ’d SW'ly SSW SSE S SSE SSE SW Remarks : - FEb.2. Left Balboa 6:36 A.M. DraftF. 22» $8" A. 26' 10" . 1:19 P.M. C. tola S 73W 7 p\ Feb. 5. 3.58 A.M. Culpepper Is. S 24 E 6mi. February 5, 1936 We passed Culpepper Island about three this morning though I id not see it. When I got up there were a great number of birds abobt. I could make out f tone species though most I could not ix identify . I will numberate them there was 1, A large bird resembling a petral, I sxx saw four or five to- gether several time during the day flying k heigh 60-100 ft. They had white underparts; primaries and top of head black while the back and upper wing coverrets sooty. No. 2, resembled a tern a small bird as compared with 1, the tail was forked tkagk though this was not aparent at all times. It was dark or blacish above and white below with a white band on forehead or neck I could not make out which though I saw several flocks all day. The reamining i were boobies I think that one was the "Blue-faced" and the other was the Brown Boobie, these last were less numberous than the first two sp cies. Our position at noon Lat. 1 07* N. Long 93 36’W. In the afternoon we saw several whales We did not come close enough to see them though we could see that they had a short spout pointing considerably forward. The day was warm ifci with little seat . Run from noon to noon was 305 mi, yesterday's 514 February 6, 1936 There was very little of interest to day I spent most of it reading. I developed a film for Julstedt after supper. In the afternoon a maderate bra breeze sprung up on the port beam which made it nice and cool . Chips finished making the swimming pool. February 7, 1936 There is a nice breeze on the beam. I awoke early and went in for a swim before breakfast and after breakfast we had -« -* *■* fire and boat dir 11. About ten we passed a school of dolphins I think they were Qolphinus they were browninsh above n and leighter below, there must have been fort to fifty of tham. Very little doing in the afternoon. I went in for another swim February 9, through 11, 1936 There has been very little to write about . It has been not too warm though yesterday when the wind shifted to astern it was slightly warmer than usual. I have decided to enter the ships position an a seperate sheet all at one ti e . I have ween very few birds about one each day and then not close enough to identify. There has been endless pounding, paint chipping. The swimming p pool has been moderatly used and the water has seemed slightly cool about 72. F. I developed a film that I took at Hagerstown and on board also com-ng through the canal; it came out fairly good. February 12 through 21, 1936 There has been nothing practically worth writing about during this time except possibly the scarcety of birds , Li I did not see more than about six and they were mostly boobies. To-day I saw the first Tropic-bird that I have seen on this voyage. The weather most of this time has been fair, though we have had an occasional shower and there has been a slight breeze so that it has not been excessivly hot. Rogers and Juelstedjr have been putting final touches on the shiP and the radio. February 23, 1936 We saw more birds to-day that on any-time since leaving Galapagos they were mostly Tropic birds. Flying in pairs and in beautiful full plumage there also seen a number of Boobies and one large petrel. I moved the radio (HR0) down to my cabin and had lots of fun playing with it I wrot the list on the back of this page. 3 SV • 7 j ■yrWs%/*f / Ids /, JY H &**&**/ C $- ^ ^ / '/' 7 yS " y "- i A&K Cf/f*, C.q. iieMy // ( 3 a^ / n ^ u ^ > ■ * / t L ^ l,t / r r 1 G/xx i » M/ix/i 7 ! 4 s ? Y t~ :) »f £ V * 3 \ 1 :/y , \/ 9 / 3 ^;., 7 ? . "r . / if ? „ * CXTr ism' / f y„ ' > i- \#00 *. c ”/f ^ 7 - Ji ‘V * l' v >> -K ? r . 7 o J? ( 5 ^ A-^ y /70 ! 33 ~ y . * - ~ >-/-r * r 3 ~o -y* <3 3 Z 4 - s**'* 7 T ~- 1 re &jir: _ DATE F|bruar r, 1936 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 • S65W S64^W S65^W Various S7l|W S73W S76W S78W S80W S81 Latitude 14 32 16 41 18 46 20 38 22 16 23 47 24 57 25 58 26 50 27 38 | «§■ 126 33 314 131 13 299 136 02 303 141 06 307 146 22 310 151 45 311 156 47 284 162 01 290 167 24 294 172 54 297 Total 3169 3468 3771 4078 4388 4699 4983 5275 5567 5864 Steaming time 24.10 24.20 24.20 24.10 24.20 24.22 24.22 24.20 24.22 24.22 total 249.04 273 .24 297.44 322.02 346.22 370.44 395.06 419.26 443.48 468.10 Average speec 12.91 12.29 12.45 12.63 12.74 12.76 11.65 11.92 12.06 12.19 Current Set S63W East N32E S80W West N25W N61E N85E N42E East Drift 9 8 5 3 5 7 14 6 7 10 Engines rev, 75 75 75 75 75 75 74.6 74 74.2 75 Slip 1.9 6.5 5.3 3.2 3.1 2.8 10.7 8 7.2 7.2 miles ftLnd Direct. 3273 NExE 3593 NNW 391£ E'ly 4232 SE 4552 cfiSl 4872 NNW 5190 wsw 5505 SxW 5822 SE 6463 Calm Force 4 4 2 2 1/0 4 5 5 2 0 Barometer 30.10 30.08 30.10 30.10 30.12 29.97 29.93 29.98 30.05 30.07 Temp, ail 83 80 83 81 83 79 76 77 78 78 ' sea 78 79 81 81 80 78 79 77 78 77 Sea Modera . Moder . Slight Smooth Calm Moder. Rough Rough Calm Calm Swell Cond, Slight Low Low Low Low Low Moder. Moder Moder . Directior Conf’d _H/2 . S'ly S'ly , s'ly Conf'd Conf’d s'ly ESE ESE Remarks Feb. 13, Much rain & drizzle. Feb. 14-16 Fine & Clear Feb. 17 2.02 A. M. Tubuai Is. S14E 9§ mi. Heavy showers Feb. 18 Squally. Feb. 19, Fine &nfllear Noon Heayy SE Swell Feb. 20 Fine & Clear Feb. 21 Cloudy, showers. 9 . February?. 3 - March 19 Ihave not writen nnbes since we were on the Summerset and c nsequnntly I have forgo- tten a lot . fie had fair weather all the way but toward the last when we were approac- hing the Australian coast. We arrived at the warf about ten in the morning and had a buss- y morning and afternoon getting mour stuff off and transhiped to h the Montoro which was due to have sailed that evening but she ran aground and we have been charged with 12 % General Average which is a nusenc and an expense as I had no insurance. Everyone in Brisbane was most helpful and they did eventhing SP^qcx That they could have to help us get the plane assembled and cleared consequantly we we flying in a week . We had a fast trip from Brisbane to Cairns but the weather was abomnible and we saw little d except the actual coast, We made the tip in 7hr -g. We made a stab at c ntinu ng the next day but the weather was so bad that we had to turn back and wate for the next. The next day was fine exeept for a shower just North of Cooktown and we had a head wind most all the way to Daru where we found everything O.K. we spent several days here and the went to Pott Moresby on Sunday in two-| hr. We spent Monday and Tuesday in geting the ship and other gear through customs and ordering a few supplies. We brough Patrol officer Champion and "V. Willis who is going to run transport for us . Mr. Champion is going to show us the country so that we ought not have any trouble finding our way. also P.0. Healey is coming on the Chief tomorrow to go with us. i i v:/.r . > v eon‘3 as-dta a-;-J£e..\ .tea ■uvnU ' : •? + VU 7. i X ' :>*0' Ji ■* -‘i ../■ . % #$$».• f . » r ' -7t-S .. « • : ;:'0 : LV7 *.,*> ^ iK.7 : f !5 .v fi ,.••!• ? £> • it- .iv ,,fe .V .tf.&ifc. J • -i 'tsa^ r, ,i«£ -;x -■ .;'£*vV .a '731SX- on ,lui ; < '®7>'3 .. A,i( ,W : X *3* V. ■'SV’ ,' \. .®K ( , ’■ ■ l, U- <■ ' . • m i - PW" '>u* ; .• - r<; -v- AM . ... ,'acf ,:•■& . 2 if 0 '.".7 s ..V .a % ®«r .n; ^14 .auc- sac 3 ?Htas»ifc be ‘fc* ' f ■- r jv- a~o . ■.'•14 .-i.t - v £k eIdJ.rsr».i''7a j$o 'toutooiv ajfet urn/:.. o' a., o -• • — ■ - '■ • ' ; V ■'.jpefei o:ii : .. o afe- ..{{j. 'jijc c ntcuJ 6ii'. ,• n/tJ* ■ iv-cf 10 »•••> ic,44 i@'.v o* on . ri3 *ts. •: 4 . . L-V4 Otari a ici focO ':.o dS't&.j. .tofct '<$• ■ ■s’.'i fyps :. [ ^ I ; . . ■ . ■■ • i ' • I ( ■ : j\ x eg icr i- ■ no;ae4 'teitb a j&±atb0; '£■<$&■::*■ 'A- v ■ v- y\' , ' . ' '7 $ 6 ■A ^j\ (A ‘ 3Ut>> &>o, d , '|| 1936 We left for Port Moresby about eight thirty and had a lot of rain the first part l|hrs. we stoped at Yule Island and saw Mr. Thompson who was just as chipper as ever. There was no News of Bill Adamson, except that they could not reach him and that he was fighting in the Kuni-mipa. We only stayed an hour at Yule Island before contin- uing on to ?nc Port. We found that the Veimauri had broken its crank shaft and had to return with our gear. March, 28, 1936 Was spent in Port aranging for another boat a id in ordering additional supplies. In the evening we saw a poor movie at least part I got fed up looking at it and levt in the middle of the last picture. March 29, 1936 We left port is about nine or a little before. The Van Rees came in some time before six. We had a pleasant trip back to Daru. The ship seemed livelier than lately and we made our land fall only slightly to the North inspite of several shifts of wind. We got stuck coming up to the ramp which was mor e h£ or less to be expected as the tide was better than half way out. There w as little else of Importance done March 30, J936 Little of Note Rogers was working on the ship on the spar that bent in taking off for Port. March 31, J936 Rogers finished the work on the ship which included a twenty hr. check on the motor, he reports that the plugs were carbonisig badly. The house for rogers was finis- hed aud the place is beginning to take on shape. We have had electric lights for the last night or two. April 1, 1936 Ragers, Juelstedt, Tate and Mr. B ach left at seven for Wunoi and Dogwa. There was great excitment on the part of Rogers and Juelstedt whost first trip it was. They are after the D. C. plant and other suitable electric gear left by the Oriomo Oil Co. We got started building the house to house the Generators, Sparfe Motor and developing an outfits. I xk ran the evening radio schedual with |ort. and had everything thqt could hapen without anything being searious anyhow I got through and sent three messages and recieved two. One for Mr. Woodward and one for m self saying that they had sent everything except the SI Last Montoro cargo for ±k which they claim there is no invoices actually I have handed in all the invoices and have paid duty on them. I am wire them tomorrow the 2nd. Trip # 1 Daru - Lake Murray — Black River - Palmer junction - Daru Seats in plane: Rand (R), Champion (R) Brass (L) Tate (R front) 7.31 Left ^aru Ship bearing 315 degr 8.03 S. bank Fly 8.08 Shifted bearing to 310 degr. 8.07 N. bank Fly. Wide silt bank covered low mangrove , cut by creeks. Rain fore forest ini&nd (B) 8.09 Two old garden clearings. Savanna and some grass area in distance on right (R) 8.10 Swampy patches grassy pnbdiHt and sago in rain forest. Some brownish Casuarina forest ? (B) Long house and small clearing (R) 8.10 Rain forest and mixed savanna (thin). Grass country several miles ling and one mile wide f ^Standing water (R) 8.12 Open grass with regular tentacles of forest (B) Raift-forWt with ireegulah outline— (B) “d vi * -- - 8.13 Grass swamps and rainforest containing rain forest islands (B) 8.133dktafi3acxsxxi!XBi|s Good deal of tea tree, some dead, in swamps (B) 8.13-14 Grass swamp nearly underneath. Still running along side swamp and lagoons two miles to east. Rest rain forest (R) 8.16 Open grass swamps of Aramea showing east (B) with rifrer winding through th« Rain forest back from river, and islands of it in swamps (B) 8.17 Lagoons, ponds and grass swamps , apparently a stream through them (R) 8.18 Same as last (R) 8.21 Low flat country with meandering stream with ox-bow bends, numerous lagoons, grass country and patches of forest (R) 8.20 Beautiful open lagoons, red along edges with Azolla (?) Everywhere below bends of muddy river (B) photos 8.22 Over stream (above). Apparently banks with natural levees, as they appear higher than surrounding country and carry lines of trees near water edge. Grass country behind them. Filled (?) cut-offs grassy with wooded edges (R) Note: this is the Aramea R. (C) 8.25 Dark carpet of forest with only occasional grass land (R right) 8.26 Parallel small meandering streams with much grass and forest (R) 8.28 Over ponds, grassy edges extending as fingers into forest (R) Over beautifii country of rain forest, open lagoons ana grass ana tea tree swamps ( left); (right) mostly rain forest (B) 8.29^ Over small red stream. Country more wooded. Some ponds with red vegetation around edges. Heavy haze cuts down visibility (R) 8.32 Mtn Peak 358 degr (C) (see Rand sketch) 8.34 To left large stream with considerable grass (R) To right mostly wooded; one stream with little grass (R) Over big rain forestjlagoons of Aramea west Top of forest every shade of green, here and there dead or leafless trees and some with brown or yellow foliage (B) 8.35 Low hills half right (T) 8.35 to 40 Over conpletely forest flat plain (R) 8.40 Still grefet forest for many miles (B) Aramea grass swamps showing away over to west (B) To right three spots of grass swamp in the forest (R) 8.41 Hill 34 degr. 8.43 To west few grassy swamp areas marking course over muddyiriver winding through rain forest (B) * 8.44 Heavy forest, ridgy (C) Mountains 30 degr. 8.45 Changed bearing to 305 degr ship's compass 8.44 Winding stream with little swamp to left (R) 8.45 Over same stream, fifty yards wide, trending half right (R) Very brown- yellow in color. Vdry little grass swamp (R) 8.46 Aramea fifty yards wide (C) Flying altitude 824 meters (B) Clouds .beneath 8.49 Ship 800 meters, coming to low fleecy cloud field below us. Dense could field 100 meters above prevents flying higher. Country all forested (R) Trip # 1 8.50 Ahead and to right clouds below have closed completely, to the left scattered parts like fog at more or less reguair spaces, allowing views of forest (R) 8.52 Fly river (?) just visible west over great stretch of forest. No openings in forest below. Obscure lines like faint watermarks in paper mark course of drainage streams in forest (B) 8.58 Commencement more grass swamps with creeks running nw to Strickland. Cloud field spreading from direction of mountains (B) 8.59 Strickland in view ahead} Lake Murray just in sight (R) 9.0 Cdhngetf course to strike Lake Murray. All flat. Completely wooded (R) 9.03 Crossed Strickland river. Grass swamp of some extent to left. Strickland roily J water, islands and ox-bows. 9.04 In big bend of Strickland lagoons with trees th their edges, little or no grass swamjj.(R) 9.05 Oxbows and billabongs run about in such profusion that it is difficult to tell where the river flows, except for the dirty water of the Strickland and the dar k clear water of the billabongs. In the forest conspicuous lines showing where the banks of the bends had been built up or cut-offs formed (R) . The above are the banks of the inside of the bends. 9.07 Conspicuous red banks on Strickland several miles to southwest (B) Some open grass swamp country (R) 9.09 Over lower reaches Lake Murray and following a big outlet creek, dark, clear water flowing to Strickland. Whole country along Strickland incised by lagoons edged with grass (distant view) (B) Left much more open swamp (R) 9.13 Slight ridge (C) 9.14^ Over edge Lake Murray (C) No lake really but a vast lagoon: a mixture of water and islets, islands, points, hooks and peninsulas. Country all forested. Margin along water only grass, bright green. In places trees growing into water, some at least tea tree formation (R) Great irregular lagoon of brown water miles across half filled with forested islands (B) Note: Clouds left behind about level with Strickland. 9.19 On water of Lake Murray. Half mile from village several houses on island. anchored in 20 feet water (B) (Canoe, two men visited us) 10.37 Clear of water and in air. Bamboos and some tea trees observed on some s 10 islands. Bright pale green lines water lilies mark edges of shallows off islands. Islands margined with half submerged masses of aquatic grass (B) 10 Bays, indentations and bayous everywhere} very little open grass country and that confined mostly to edge of water (R) 10.45 End of lake reached (north) Heading north for Black River. (C) Good deal sago in forest. Many trees in flower. Very soon after leaving lake forested ridgy country. (B) All forested, swamps or sago swamps (R) 10.47 Visibility better. See to horizon all around. Apparently entirely forested: tall slender palms. (R) 10.49 Small open grass swamp (R) On swampy grass patches in forest a low, white- flowering tree like a Leptospermum (B) Flowering rain forest trees with whitish, brown and here and there red ar bright orange tops (B) 10.58 Low ridges noticable (R) 11.03 Low forested ridges (B) Few lines sago along hidden streams. Mountains discernible nnw. 11.08 Jumbled ridges. Above old garden and house. Bananas amongst grass of clearing. Sago close by. (B) 11.09 House (C) J- wo garden clearings, one with one house (R) 11.11 Low hills appear inland to right (R) 11.13 Stream almost completely hidden by forest (R) 11.13^ Crossed Elevala (C) 50 yards wide flowing west (R) Fairly straight course through forest. (B) Ranges creeping down both sides of course in far distance (B) 11.15 Steeper ridges (C) Over tributary ElevalA, a winding brown stream with tall trees flattened along edges by force of water (Cloud burst?). Riffles in stream (B) Trip # 1 11.16 Stream hardly visible through forest (R) 11.17 Stream 25 yds wide (R) 11.18 Stream 25 yds wide, aad house (®) Whole surface country cut up in jumbled sharp ridges (B) 11.20 Small hills without definite direction. Rough country (R) Forest canopy east to west, not uniform, not all green. Very uneven surface. Besides various shades yellows and greens, black shadows, grays of various shades, russets and redbrowns and shadows modiijLing these to blackish (R) House and garden left (C). Mountains across Strickland visible (T) 11.21 Steeper ridges. Hill # 1 45 degr. House and bananas in garden (B) Foothills looming up. High ranges beyond partly clouded over. 11.22 Hill # 2 45 degr. House and garden left 11.24 Creek, quiet, 20 yds across (R) brown (C) flows west (B) 11.25 Large river from east (clear) (C) River 35 yds wide clear water, flowing west (R) 11. 26^ Village (C) 11.27 Black River 11.28 Black river (over) 50 yards wide, brown winding islands sandbars quiet (R) Half floods houses down stream, changed course down river. White Gravel bed top end/small wooded island. Mt. Blucher half clouded (B) 11.28t J unction J31ack with Palmer (C) Palmer olive green in color (B) 11.35 Junction Flamer and Fly (B) Below junction big sandy island. (R) Fallowing Fly downstream exploring for landing places on river. No set course. 11.38 Two villages 11.39 Scattered population. River fairly low. Banks uncovered. Gravel banks and snags in places, but good straight clear reaches (B) Creek (C) 11.41 Rogers says that for last 5 miles could land anywhere on stream. Village. 11.43 Turned up Fly again towards Palmer junction 11.45 From Palmer junction into Fly proper where noted a straight reach. 11.46 Examining reach in Fly 1147 Garden 11.48 Circled back above end of reach 11.53 Again over Palmer junction (island in Palmer) 11.54 Surprise creek 11.57 Palmer junction 11.58 House, and scattered houses west of river (B) 12.00 Small river (R) 1201 Village of 6 houses near sago swamp (R) Started out for Daru. 150 degr ship Note: Scattered population in these parts of country with gardens along river on the points. 12.04 Elevala. 40 yards wide, flowing west (R) 12.11 Village. Clearings (C) 12.12 Sago swamps (B) Creek (C) 12.13 Village (C) 12.15 Winding muddy creek flowing towards FlyJ^), 12.18 Still endless forest with rare sago samps of small size (B) No houses anyweie Running into clouds coming from direction of coast. (B) Bearing directly upon low gap in horizon (Strickland) (T) 12.20 Creek and sago (C) Still slightly rolling hills (R) 12. 23^ Sago patch (C) 12.28 Conspicuous patch of tall light green trees on ridge top. Fairly open mixed sago and grass swamps (B) Drawing of Strickland gap still dead ahead (T) Strickland several miles away visible on port side (B) 12 . 30-312 Quantities of sago swamp with some forest mixed in 12.32 General change to much swampier country upon approach Strickland. Grass an probably some tea tree in swamps (B) 12*33 Two miles west of Strickland. is an old filled ox-bow now grass covered with trees encroaching (r) and pond to of the (B) Trip # 1 12 .55 Little brown stream flowing southeast. (R) Mtn 90 degr E. (C) 12.36 Peak 92 degr. 12.36f Over Strickland river. u ray, dirty water. u ap not longer discernible. Open grass area near river. South side Strickland great swamps 12.37 Peak 66 degr. mixed sago and grass, and pure open 12.38 Peak 111 degr. forest stands, some tall slender gray tree (B) 12.40-g River from 55 degr. Extensive grass for several square miles right (R) Some open waterin swamps along its course, and som grass showing seems to covex- dry land. Beyond forest, forest 12.43g Peak 66 degr. 12.44f Peak 69 degr. Heavy (C) scrub 12.45-| Peak 87 degr 12.49- 1 Peak 46 degr. Rands sketch of hills 12.50- 1 Peak 50 degr. Scrub right (C) 12.51 Creek, winding muddy, in dense forest (B) 12.51^ Peak # 3 54 degr 12.55 j; eak 3 35 degr. 1.00 Range # 3 13 degr. 1.01 Small grass area parallel and to left (R) l.Olf Small river 1.02 Still along twisting brown creek. Small grass area to left 1.03 - 07 Still following small creek. (C) Coming to edge of grass-lagoon country of Aramea (R) 1.05 River 150 degr. Lagoons 8 miles to right (C) Lagoons, swamp with grass margins to left (R) 1.06 large lagoon. River to right of lagoon. Still following little creek. x t joins another. Grass areas several hundred yards wide on bank. (R) This seems to join up with that from the west. (Fly,?) Grass swamp country extends but little farther east where forest begins. (R) Some parts with tea tree swamp forest with vine-covered tree trunks (B) 1.07 Junction large river from 40 degr. l,07i. Range #3 357 degr. River 200 degr. 1.08 Crossing lagoons of Aramea region. Some of the grass acout lagoons and swamps appear to cover dry land (B) 1.09 Lagoon and swamp. Grass of some extent to right (R) 1.10 Over forest with much sago. Occasional patches of grass (R) 1.12 Swamp to left; lagoons and swamp to right (R) 1.13^ Extensive lagoon and grass left. River, wide winding, has appearance of canal (R) 1.15 In midst of grass swamp of several square miles at least. Goes beyond sight (?) (R) 1.1.6 Big lagoon to right (| I 1 mile). (R) 5d&±xgiDasx!XXX±xgHEKX*££ 1.17 Passed swampy valley or two. Forest with bits of srwamp on left. (R) Village on lagoon (C) 1.21 Forest with bits of swamp . Fly in sight to right (R) Well in sight ahead (T at 1.18$) 1.22 Forest gives way more and more to grass swamps on approach Fly. Some areas dead tea tree forest (B) 1.24 Area tea tree country in forest (R) 1.25 One-house village and clearing (R) 1.25# Village (0 1.26 on Left bank Fly Little mangrove here 1. .26 One mile below mouth of Bituri 1.56 Over Daru. Trip # 2 . Daru - Lake Murray - Black River - Palmer Junction and back to Daru Observers: Rand (R)-, Brass (B), Champion, all bearings (C), Tate (T). Archbold's log tc* be intercalated. A.M. CMmju ■. t Ha^~ fii V' . Ckt-w^ A-cy^kf ^ 'fkC l~Uj/kA‘ >£• . At, 1, 4<£fuy) 6.34 Left Daru 7.04 over Left bank Fly River Above crossing, red banks and few coconuts (B) . Inland from banks open grass and Tea tree savanna with low, perhaps secondary rainfor st patches Beyond swampy, sago and rain forest with considerable gra.s. 7.08 Much open grass, probably mostly swamp but some dry savanna showing in rain forest of broken appearance. 7.04 to 7.09. Inland from banks ver y green grass swam^ area runxJ.ng parallel to Fly. One to several hundred yads wide. Much grass country, some apparelt]y dry up to 7.09, where more wooded areas come in. (R) 7.10 Green grass swamp several squ miles (R.) Beyond more or less wooded to 12.05 7.11 Village (C). More and more grass. Rainforest reduced to small island patches (B). 7.12 (r) Started to cross lagoon, grass swamp and ary grass ? area but very little forest. 7.13 Village (C). Big patch newly buisn&t grass. Low ridges small creeksand few opaa ponds (B 1.) 7.15 Burnt patches show that some open grass at least is dry. Everywhere up river for miles big lagoons and swamps connected with river by short creeks (B 1) 7.17 Bot’s j 3 ecP Aramea. 7.18 £bmxx Wide swampy grass lands each side (B l) 7.20 Over wooded country (R r). Big rainforest. Swamps left behind except green lines along creeks going to Aramea (Bl) 7.20 to 7.47 ftK i mi m ragxTrtggy r All forest. 7.27 Bamu 80 degr. 5 miles away. 7.30 Over Bamu R. Winding. (R r) Muddy. Much sago in forest. Apparently b oah tea tree in more open green swamps (B 1) Rain forest predominates. 7.35 Forest looks ridgy (C) 7.36 St ill foolowing Bamu 7.41 Smalll tributary to Bamu from 55 degr. 7.43 Little creek parallel to course, 3 miles to right (R) 7.43 Ridgy 7.49 Dome on Leonard Murray 50 degr. 7.50 Bamu below water jhidden unaer trees (B 1) Small grass swamp (Ri) 7.51 Tributary from 50 degr. 7.53 Crater Lake (1) Drained by creek flowing down to Bamu. two hills beyond lake (B l) Forest to edge. Shores higher than surrounding country (Rl) 7.54 Waterfall on Bamu. Leonard Murray 21 degr. 100 feet.(Rl) 7.55 Hill 3 miles left 7.56 Bamu 1 mile left (C) Two small gdns. Ridgy fore ted country (B) 7.57 Hill 90 degr. 40 to 50 miles (C) Bamu 85 degr from Leonard Murray 7.59 Leonard Murray 47 degr. 5 hills left (C) 8.0 Small open sided crater (T r) 8.0 Large Lake. 2 round hills beyond lower end (Bl) Lake edge grass and sago swamp. Much sago in surrounding forest. Outlet to Bamu from south. (C) 8.02 Steep precipitous valleys (C l) 8.04 S. shoulder of Leonard Murray 80 degr. 8.05 Large river to left.(C) 8.08 Dome 24 degr. 8.10 to 8.11 Long House and gardens (both sides) 8.11> Leonard Murray 110 degr. 8.13 Large river 70 degr. Sandspits(C) Gardens and' population, big (Long houses) Gardens generally circular 1 clearings like green pits in forest (B.) One garden fenced (B). Note: Similar to gdn cleraings on 0k Mart but houses different. 8.15 River from 65 dgr(r) on (l) same river joins another (C) Large area of 2nd growth (scattered clearings) (R and B) Trip # 2 8.15 Same gardens with thin partitions of primary forest between them giving impression of honeycomb pattern (R and B) 8.17 Creek many villages and continuing population 8J18 River 6ID degr (C 1) Two new long houses (B) 8.19 Long houses. Villages, extensive gdns. Several small creeks (C) Rough ridgy country (R) 8.20 Still gardens pop. continues. Much regrowth. Grass or swamp 5 miles left (R) 8.21 Over forest. People scattered. 8.22 Numerous streams from 60 degr. 8.23 Large river 80 degr. Sandspits. Ridges parallel river. Heavy forested banks. (C) Rapids. Population ceases near river (B) River crookedjleft population. Lime- stone other side. 8.25 Large river 15 miles left 225 degr. (C) 8.26 Smaller river with rapids (r) and broken limestone left (C) Deep gorge in limestone (B) . 8.27 River in steep gorge from 65 degr. Pop. down river to left. Heavy forest (C) 8.28 Huge river 70 degr. Steep gorges. Population on north bank (C) %ny clearings down river and away nw. (B) Big loop of Strickland (all of us) ship’s course 320 degr. Flying parallel high ranges right (B) 8.81 Small pop. but scattered, some new gardens (B) 8.32 River left 243 at 20 miles (C) Still people 8.34 Huge river from 60 degr and junction with one from 55 degr. Gardens left (6) Rand's sketch shows anr creek from nw entering river on right bank. Bluff s. of river (R) 8.36 Small lake, deep (r) below bluffs. Landslides. No sign pop. 8.37 Small stream (r) . Second growth. Hills. Wooded bluffs, all wooded (R) 8.38 River right. Limestone cliff left. River below (B) Apparently block faulted limestone (T r) Widening of river (1.) at rock faces. Possible landslide 8.39 River flows around block mtn. (Dead trees standing in pools (B) 8.40^River right. Gardens (Bl). Still block faulting (T) 8.42 Rands sketch shows Sr'* river flowing to left, nearly over junction with branch to se, and one to ne (R) Branch to ne branches again in few miles. One branch nearly north. Two great gorges ±e££ (B) number of scattered gardens and one house (B r) 8.43 Strickland converging with course from sw (T) 8.47 Rand's sketch. Apparently following valley of stream (8.42). Bluff on left light green. Discovered stream flowing north, apparently rises close to head of stream (8.42) which turns left to Strickland at 8.47 (R) 8.48 Enter inner basin of Strickland over steep bluff or basin, immensely deep, curving from due east around to north. Bluff forms western edge of limestone mountain. (T and R) Over Devil’s Race (B) 8.49 Strickland flowing 190 degr. 8.53 Strickland trending west (B) . Very deep but rather short valley from right (T) 8.56 Crystal valley seen. Steep deep dark wooded valley with few gardens. Can see valley beyond which apparently widens and consists of more level cleared grass country, evidently secondary mtn valley grassland of 4 to 6ooo feet. Clearing for gdns (R) Hoop pines (Auraucaria) and Pandanus (B) on spurs. 8.5® Directly over Crystal Valley 47 degr. Immenselylong and unusually straight. flow directly to Strickland. Wider several miles up valley. 8.58 Shifted course to W. Several small cleared places (R) 8.59 Blucher 235 degr. 9.00 Flying over flat limestone plateau. Bare rock showing through forest on top Pandanus plentiful all through forest. Appeared to be moss-forest formation (B) Sare 262 degr (C) 9.01 Large garden ( r) (R) Clouds came down on Victor Qnmanuel (r) Note: most of' mtn tops clouded. 9.03 Flying up branch of Strickland. Village 10-20 houses highup sw side. Houses Trip #2 9.03 (cont'd) appear thatched with Pandanus leaves (B). Branch of Strickland from sw (T) 9.04 Small river slightly to right (R) 9.05 Probably over Palmer-Strickland divide. Ridge parallel course on left (R) Beyond Tungom (not visible) and White river (R) 9.08 River at foot of Mabion (seen from left side) Probably Luap. Steep ridges (R) Second gowth at foot of Mabion. 9.09 Over Mabion 9.12 Blucher llOdegr. 9.12§ Sare 320 degr; Karik 83 degr. 9.14 Over # 13 camp (C) Old gardens (R 1) 9.15 Note plane flew south out through gap between Blucher and Sare, and turned w. 9.17 Flying due W. 9.18 Small pop. on South slopes of Sare. Fly gap visible, "level" on port side (B) Note: The Narin river xksxx enters Palmer 2 miles below camp "5" (Karius report Champion says incorrect on map. 9.19 Outer ridge of Sare, parallel to it encloses small valley with outlet near western end, water probably to Tully. (T.) 9.21 kxKxxxst xxxx Up gradual wooded slope terminating abruptly with nor-facing precipices of north face of Sare. Then changed course to east. ?'9.2^ Following small river parallel with Bol between Bol and Sare, course 90 degg. 9.24P Over the divide which joins Dap range with Sare and separates Palmer-Luap basin from Bol basin. 9.29 Level with eastern end of Sare; landslide with limestone beds showing dip of 20 degr. (T) Turn 3 once more. 9.33 Over Karius and Champion # camp 6 miles below Blucher on bend of Palmer. 9.36 Over jctn Palmer and Black (B) Palmer muddy ; Black clear though dark 9.53 Flying low about and below jctn with Black, followed Palmer down 9.55 0pp. Jctn Tully. Many forest teees in flower (B) 9.56 Due w for 0k Mart in search heavily populated country reported by Oroville people (B) 10.01 Crossed Fly over group islands. Mtn gate of Fly 13 degr. 10.03 Sevl scattered gdns and houses (B) Squat square nouses supported on numbers of slender poles ten feet or more from ground (R) 10.04^ Garden left 10.05. Garden (l) . Many solitary houses and gardens scattered over hilly country. _ . J his population runs on to Ok Mart (B) Not dense pop. but people numerous 10 . 05f Gardens . Two villages ^ ° k Mart bel0w ( Black water rlver (T) Junct small r. from Fly side(B) 10.07§ Villages 10.08 Villages. 0k Mart with fair current. Islands at intervals. Large pure stand of some tall grayish tree (B and T) 10.09 Forest 10.09-g Small river with sw course 10.11 Hill 295 degr. Villages perched on ridge 3 miles n. (C) 10.13 Crossed 10.14 Two villages on ba.t*. of Alia® „ 10.16 Village at 142 degr. „ «® a ^“€ back forDaru. 10.17 Two miles to right vil^i^C^^SlSifl^Eg^giS^ clearinggs. 10.18 Village f mile right. Sago. (Course set by Rogers 142). 10.18^ two houses. Village 10. 19 Village Houses well thatched with sago (B) 10.21 Loop on river half mile wide. 10214 sr&s s n ( B )° p ’ seeBs to oaa3e south of FiyuBBroien as* 1 " 1 *- ^ tu.41 Same (?) river. Possibly Woodward's new river going to Lake Murray. Trip # 2 10.43 Left above river (B). Small sago swamps. 10.44 two domes 98 degr. 10.45 Forest and sago left. Forest appears under water right (C) 10.46 Good deal of sago in lines and small patches. Numerous little hidden creeks. Some of forest floor under water (B) 10.48 Ridgy country. Much Goru and some sago. Extensive stands of tall light green tree with rounded tops. Saw same trees yesterday and again up 0k Mart today. (B) Hill #2 109 degr. Approaching Strickland near which are sago swamps of some size. 10.49 Hill #3 119 degr. 10.50 Hill #1 91 degr. 10.51f Hill #4 124 degr. 10.55 Strickland 3 miles left. 10.59 Hill #1 70 degr. 11.00 Crossed Strickland. Small amount of grass. Immense sago swamps. (R) North bank mostly grass swamp. S. bank immense sago forest nearly 2 minutes across. Scattered forest trees. Beyond the grass swamp a swamp forest dominated by a tall slender gray tree. 11.03 River, tributary of Strickland 75 degr. flowing through grass and sago swamps (B) A twisting river with water brown (R) Beyond river unbroken rain forest (B) 11.5 hill #2 69 degr. 11.08-g’ hill #3 69 degr. Creek almost completely hidden below (R) 11.11 Hill #4 69 degr. 11.12 Narrow rippling muddy river winding ahead through forest abt 210 degr. 11.13. Hill #4 61 degr. 11. 14]=? River from 55 degr to 200 degr. 50 yards wide. 11.17 Old garden 11.19 Hill #4 45 degr. River 1 mile to right 205 degr. 11.21 Sago swamp (R) 11.26]j Grass and Tea tree swamps <11.27 Aramea from 15 degr. (C) "arge series of lagoons to right, about 6 milesjqk have been seen for some few moments (R) Small muddy river (B) 11.28 Muddy river parallel with us and left. Sxxmpx vf svxi&y^j^-srs r-kw y vTg i s - k * 11.29 Open swamps with tall sedges. Narrow lagoons with dark water flowing e ty s parallel with course. 11.30 Parallel to river. 11.30g Lagoons on left bank of river, also swamp grass. Right largely forested exc water indistance. ll.Slf Crossed river into country of lagoons and grass swamps small and large. 11.32 Crossed Aramea. Lagoons 5 miles to right. At lower end series of big lagoons . 11.33aForest and sago to left; swamps right 11.35 a Little savanna (dry) (R) . Ridges (B) 11 . 35-g Over forest but right and ahead lagoons and swamps. 11.36 Across very long grass swamps, scattered trees and small forest islands, draining down to big lagoons on port bow (B) Lagoons and swamp one mile to right. 11.36|r Forest left. Swamps 11.37-g Tea tree swamps 11.39 Crossed Aramea, winding between great open lagoons. Bamboos on some islands Big areas green sedge. Here and there red Azolla along margins of open water. (B) Apparently natural levees (R) Some islands forested. 11.44 Passing out of swamp and lagoons to forest (R) Tea tree swamp forest (B) 11.45 Opeu country grass and forest clumps tongues and fringes (R) Grass swamps containing areas tea tree swamp forest and scattered sago continue to interrupt rain forest. Probably grass swamps link Aramea with Fly at this point. (B) 11.47 Considerable blocks forest but also open country. Trip #2 11.48 Sago swamps in forest (R) 11.50 Less grass (only patches) more tea tree as approach Fly river. Higher country ? (B) ' 11.51 Mangrove edge for hundred yards or so from Fly (R) 11.52 Over Fly opposite Bituri. Area pale mangsrove forest on big mud bank, contrasts strongly with big rain forest on north bank (B) 12.23 At Daru. Trip # 3 Daru - Turama R. -Leonard Murray - Lake Marguerite * west side Leonard Murray - Bamu River - Daru. Seats in plane: Champion left. Brass left, Rand right Tate right front and occasionally r or 1 in rear cabin. ®.54 Left Daru 7.12 S. bank Fly 7.13 Over north end a long island mostly sago forest dotted round topped green t trees. Note: tony island in Fly, some raised and thickly forested, some mere bare mud banks, others stocked up with low mangroves . (B) 7.16-7.19^ Over Kiwai. Mostly dense sago forest dotted tea tree. Patches tea swamp forest with mangroves, swamp forest and rain forest round, edges. (B) 7.22 S. shore Wabuda 7.25 N. shore Wabuda 7.29 N. shore Fly. Narrow fringe mangroves, then mixed community sago and grass on swampy ground. Quantity tea tree also (B) 7.31 Belt tea tree swamp forest (B) 7.32 Mostly sago with gass and tea tree )B) 7.33 Muddy creek fringed with rain forest (B)From this creek big sago forest 7.34 Sagoswamp mixed with rainforest trees (R) Plenty tall Pandanus (B) Hill i 9- (T) 7.35 Over S shore Dibiri. Mangrove and Nipa (Biri) forest fringing waterway (B) Long house west bank (B) 7 . 56p N side of Dibiri, fringe of scrubthed open sago (R) Patch Phragmites swamp in flower. Much tea tree besides rainforest and Pandanus trees (B) 7.36 Hill 3/8 left (T) 7.37 Dome hill 279 degr. Approaching shore. Forest trees coming in with sago (R) 7.38 S. shore Bamu. Island right 7.39 N. shore Bamu (T) Village left (C) Note: Flat swampy sago country, then wide belt browish forest, perhaps special swamp succession rain forest, with some sago and goru (B) Forest fringe to Bamu (R) 7.42 Hill i left (T) Grass swamp break in forest (R) 7.40-745 Forest (R) Still over swampy, rain (?) forest. Parts much sago (B) i»45 Range 324 degr. 7.45^ Gumu R 270 degr. Winding down from grassy swamps 3-4 miles up (B) 7.47 Forest trees and sago 50-50 (R) 7.50 Still over great flat brown forests. Swampier parts contain much sago as under-story. Few pure stands sago. One sago-making camp seen some miles back (B) 7.50| River 60 yds wide (R) 7.522 Hills 306 degr. 7.53 Belt dense forest (R) 7.54 Left side big lagoon dotted with islands two miles away. Grass swamps farther up, with crooked lane open water down middle (B) (nearer 7.56) Alt. 800 m. (T) 7.55 Hill 331 degr. 7.56 Right over river (R) Over long swamp, mostly covered green floating plants (B) Grass swamp east side. Creek through swamp (R) 7.58 S. bank Turama. Two islands below. (Right) Generally same swampy forest with sago (B) Forest edge on river (R) 8.00 Changed course to follow river 300 degr. Same brown topped forest. Much sago and still some showing below forest, (north bank) Some dry ground carrying dryer type rain forest up (ne) from river (B) 8.02 over river again. Small island (R) Dark rainforest along river (B) 8.03 Well developed range of limestone hills to right of course paralleling river (T) Trip # 3 8.o5 Murray (Leonard) 300degr, Brown fresh water swamp forest, intersected by by patches and belts of dark geen contrasting rain forest (B) 8.09 Creek £05 degr. Dominant brown tree of special swamp forest giving way and persisting only in patches through rain forest proper (B) Band sketch of lower river 8.11 Leonard Murray 301 degr. Over river. River 300 yards wide 300degr., trib- utary 50 to 75 yards wide (310 degr). Junction here. House on bank (B) Note: following over left bank of main river. 8.13 Sana Crossed river again with creek entering from left (south) (B) 8.14 Rain forest containing much sago with few garden clearings and solitary houses scattered through it (B) 8.15 House on left bank see Rand sketch (R) River tortuous with angular bends (B) 8.16f River 2 miles left of plane (R) 8.17 Hills 227 degr. 8.18 Hill 356 j River turama from 256 degr.; Tate sketch of Darai Hills $ of Mt. Leonard Murray showing just over the hills. River 4 miles left of plane (R) 8.19 Ground evidently rising. No sago, no visible signs population (B) Very long line low jagged mountains in distance to starboard (B) 8.20 River to left two miles (R) 8.21 River 3 miles (R) 8.22 River 5 miles (R) Low hills beyond 8.24 River to left the only break in great rain forest. Mount Champion 340 degr.' 8.25 Cutting in on hummocky limestone (T) Little broken up hills (R) Conspicu&ou hill 15 miles right (R) . River 8 miles to left (R) 8.26 Approaching limestone. Creek off limestone flowing sw (R) 8.27 Small river along foot of limestone (C) fttruura Main Turama on left (B) 8.28 For some time along edge of plateau with river running parallel along its edge (B) 8.82 Passing along edge of limestone. Low hills, then plains sloping to port (B) Limestone forest of paler green than lowland rain forest (B) 8.31 Siiouette of many small hills of equal height 20 miles to right, apparently edge of valley (R) River 5 miles to left of ship (R) 8.32 Getting inside scarp, over hummocky limestone. Mist ahead. (T) 8.33 Just along edge of plateau which here drops 1500 feet to level plain of Turama to sw. Clouds beginning interfere here (Sketch R) Hilly rough limestone. Hills like hay-cocks one to five hundred feet high. No definite ridges (R) All forested. Mountains beyond (R) Equally pitted Tetween the "haycocks" (T). Stream originating on plateau and flowing about due S . (T) Cloud field reaches only to edge of limestone barrier (B) Leonard Murray clear above cloud field (T) 8.37 Gilower (?) 26degr. 8.38 Along edge barrier. Leonard Murray few points off port bow (sketches by Rand, Brass, Tate. See also photographs taken later). River still winding along under edge Limestone. (B) To right same hilly country. without break but definite ridges beyond. 8.40 Swinging to N. Course already 330. 8.41 Eight miles to right country drops away to river valley (R) (Kikori?) Tate's sketch showing end of limestone and L. ffi - beyond it. 8.43 Over limestone. Plane altitude 1700 meters. Leonard Murray summit a ring of jagged peaks around a central crater opening sw (B) West peak of Leonard Murray 290, degr. Upper slopes of Leonard Murray mossy forest, and scattered dwartf bushy trees and shrubs. cling to sheer gray walls of crater. (B) 8.45$ Mt. Ialibu 51 degr. still over limestone (T) 8 .47 f Omally Peaks 302 degr. 8.48 Many miles limestone plateau streatch to low range running parallel with main divide. (B) -'/P J Trip # 3 8.52 Leonard Murray 357 dgr (ship); Champion’s compass 64 degr. 8.52f Large river from NW (T) (Kikori?) 8.53f Still over limestone (T) 8.54^ Sighted lake. 13 degr. 8.56 Omalley Peaks 302 degr. 8.57 Scattered gardens (C). Limestone ridges 110 degr. 8.5®^ Eight houses in valley behind ridges (C) 8.58 Big river flowing through middle of plateau, opening up in valleys (Kikori,) Lot of swamp and sago in vail ys Houses scattered round sides. Limestone runs in parallel ridges straight across our course (B) Forested, non— hummocky flats to se (T) Valley fairly well populated (R) Swamp is grass swamp without houses, few trees in it. 8.59 Lake sighted J left. Ridges of limestone; valleys perhaps not. Drainage all to se between parallel ridges (T) Two housea and gardens (C) 8.59-g Ridges bear 120 degr. 9.0ID River 128 degr. 9.08 Lake left. 9.03 Over end of lake. Steep valley to right 130degr. 9.05 Promontories into lake with steep sides; houses at se end; house on island; Limestone country, but the Mmmecky limestone well back; ne shores flat. (T) sw side steep; west end with large flats. 9.06 circling to fly up ne side. 9.06-§ Gilower 306 degr. 9 . Q7f Leonard Murray Mts 243 degr. 9.09 East side of Mt. Leonard Murray 314 degr. Over parallel trough valley north of lake, close to it. River winding down center. Patch sago. Fevr houses. Large flat areas light brown swampy forest (B) 9.10 Mt. Hagen 33 degr. Basement apparently reached at lake level and in nearby valleys; or else interior valleys filled with limestone silt (T) 9.11 Steep valley from 320 degr. 9.12 Swinging towards Leonard Murray. Opposite junction of two rivers coming from nw into valley (of 9.09) River flows away from Strickland. Water sluggish, green 9.13 River 320 degr. Mt. Champion due right. 9.14^ Over large river from 316 degr. 9,15-g to 9.17 Occupied in crossing nw end of lake, two rivers go into lake from 300 degr. (C) Crossed above village 19 houses (women), and one long house on island, small out houses scattered under trees around village. Canoes on lake. Number of gardens both shores; some in open clearings, others half concealed under trees. Lake very deep; small patches pale green water close under south shore. South shore steep sloping, rather thinly wooded, lew exposures white rock. North sh-re also steep but fringed with grass meadows. Extensive grassy swamp at western end. Two long houses on small grass edged creek at eastern end. (B) Size of lake about 3 miles wide and ten miles long. Southern end with flat grassy areas. Creek flowing, meandering, probably into lake. (i.e. sc end R) Alt. plane 3000 m. Altitude of lake estimated from 2000 to 3000 feet. 9.18 Leonard Murray 250 degr. 9.19 Over small river. Bridge ? River flows from large swamp parallel top end of lake. Heading for Murray over parallel ridges limestone (B) 9.20 Huge gorge 310 degr (C) Ryan or Kikori (?) Tari Furoro valley (?) from 310 to 350 degrees. Village and gar dens. Offset of Kikori gorge 9.22 Country between lake and Kikori series of parallel ridges parallel with lake. Ridges broken limestone. Number gardens. Trip # 3 9.27 Crossed Kikori. Looking upstream: two wide shallow reaches filled with sandy islands, with gorge between the two reaches. Bends to northeast upstream Originated in gorges shot by Champion at 9.20. Offset possibly due to faulting. Downstream: One sandy reach including an island almost under us, just below a tributary entering river from slopes of Leonard Murray . Beyond that place river appears to narrow. " k a nrgxkxxxra gxfxga x k fifixitKg r x fxflgxgbajeKg River from 250 from slopes of Leonard Murray. Looking ahead at Leonard Murray, long regualr slopes with radiating valleys deeply cut, spreading out fan-wise. The ridges with regular tops, crests moderately sharp. 9.30 Scattered houses on Leonard Murray slopes (B) One village at least on crest of ridge (R) 9.32 Leonard Murray cone half left 9.33 Garden (C) 9.35 Alt. 3200 meters (shiO) Slightly above level of crater 9.36 beginning to circle 9.38 Leonard Murray below (This represents highest point of flight and was where we photographed down into the cone and had the woutheait gap opposite us). Lake Campbell (now named for first time) seen £ right/ 9.40 leaving cone (B) Narrow streams glittering far down on sides of Mt. L. M. 9.42 Waterfall (by Crater Lake) first sighted dead ahead. Ships bearing 200 ( (near S). Lake Campbell abeam. River 4 miles away 220 degrees 9.43 Ships bearing 200. Several rivers running off slopes of itke Murray and spreading out fan-wise. (B and R) 9.45 Below ship 3 clearings, wide apart. Two with one house and one with seven houses. (B) 9.45^ House and clearing (c) 9.46 Bearing due S (ships compass) $.47 Village and Long house right (C) River four miles right running south 9.47f Waterfall fright (T) 9.48 Under ship two river coming down from Leonard Murray, join. Several more houses (B) 9.49 Alt. 3100 m. River two miles left 170 degr. winding course. 9.52 same winding river to port. No population either side of it (B) 9.55 Timbered swamp, open, just off west bank of river to left (B) 10.05 Bamu estimated 8 miles to west (C and T) 10.02 Tributary of Bamu originates on ridge between Bamu and Awarra, runs south. Note: No population seen since 9.48 (B) 10.06-| Village with 3 houses ana old gardens left (C) 10.08 Village left. River (Awarra?) trend ng southeast (C) 10.10 Many small swamps through forest, and occasional houses as we approach river (B) 10.12 Bamu close under us. 10.13 Cross Bamu. Alt. 3200 m. Tributary from sw where Bamu changes direction from south to southeast. 10.14 Ship course changed to se. Some sago areas in forest, and for several mile out 6nr both sides river many patches swamp forest and grass swamps dotted with trees (B) . Aramea basin begins close (within few miles) tfi the southwest margins of the Bamu. s wamps 140 to 170 degr. 10.16 Below us a village of several houses almost hidden under forest (B) ship 160g 10.17 Dry forest at divide probably indicates slight elevation of land (T) 10.19 Cahnged course to follow river towards coast (B) Long house and several small ones in forest (B) Aramea lagoon ten miles away 130 degrees (C) 10.20 Ship bearing 130 degr. 10.21 Big oblong house with wide grassy track leading away on two siaes. 10.24 Long gr .ss swamps in forest (B) and before that grass patches having appea— ance of^o Id gardens . 10.28 Crossecrsww. oF) Lagoons of Baaot Aramea reaching in from sw almost under x shipj then wooded country until near junction of Bamu where Aramea was again bordered by swamps. Trip # 3 Altitude of ship 3100 meters 10.30 Lagoon. Changed course for Fly river and. Daru 10.31 Lagoon and Rviers. Village (C) Sago swamp (R) 10.32 Over great grass and sago swamp which occupies much of the land area bet® the Bamu and Fly. Fly in -distance ahead (B) 10.34 Large village (C) 10.35 Good deal of dark rain forest among grass swamps and swamp forests (B) 10.38 N. bank Fly river. 10.44 S. bank Fly river. Altitude of ship down to 1700 meters 11.02 Over Daru 11.06 Down on water. Note:- April 10, 1956. I am to-day writing notes for April 2nd. to to-day 3i inclusive April 2, 1936 In the morning I worked on the rradio to try and get a more convened layeout for the radio. The rest of the day was spent in laying out and in getting camp settled . April 5, 1936 The day was spent the same as yesterday • I had s me difficulty on aco art of stat- ic to make contact with port but got through . At six the Vialala came in and we though that the Ronald would not be in till th morning but after supper Willis’ boy turned up saying that the Ronald was in. We put up a houst to hold the generators spare motor and |he developing outfit. I recieved port all right but aparently they could not re- me April 4, li36 We got up at ### daylight to get an early start at discharging the Ronald but did not succed in getting her to come along side the warf untill seven but never the less we gotmeverything onto the wtprf by lunch and a lot of it moved up to the house by four when we knocked off for the day. In the excitement I forgot about the radio scheduele With Port. I set the cooler up but found that a pipe conecton had burst that I could n0 -t Rogers and crew came bask just before we sat fa down for supper having had a grand time. April 5, 1936 Rogers got the cooled to working about eight anci by one the waoer was cold enough so thqt I developed the film that we took between Dogwa and the Fly Rifer. The film came out all right though there was some movement inthx some of the pictures caused by the rough air. Rogers made a tes fllgh and found that we were loosing . one hundred and forty hores. He suspects the gas and I got a telegram off To Vacuum Melbourne to find out if they sent us 87. We have had to posp ne all fling untill we can find crut what is wrong. April 6, 1936 jx a _ _ I developed the section of the role take of Lake Marquerita ana Mt . . Leanard m Murray the came out fine. In the afternoon I developed Ak& several of the iica and contax pictures of the rest which came out fair I had a little trouble in loading one of the spools . P ' ^developed in two batches the remaining films onegot badly stuck up wh4 1-W : V~0- i ( c,Jii ) cf ^ivi-p'n i (A/ ' H . y* ! rv|} c-s-/- ^ v(~ 6,v p -e ,o( \ "H *j vi v 84-52 U. S. A. New York Maryland Panama Panama Canal f-12 At Sea on board SS. Somerset New York Central Pafk from 115 Cent. Park Looking east 50mm. lane v same as 32 but with wide angle lens same as 32 but with 135 mm lens living room apartment 26 0 Hagerstown Fairchild Amphibian NS 777 at airpo ditto Fairchild Amphibian NS 777 with No. 1 in background Fairchild Amphibian NR 777 at airpor ditto ditto Approaching Gatum locks bow of S. S. Somerset in foreground ditto ,slightly closer ditto closer still Gatum locks views of Fairchild Amphibian on deck of SS Somerset. 85-10 Australia .. 12 13 14 15 £ 17 18 Papua New South Wales Paptral Division 32-33 34-36 37 39 40-41 42-44 Taken by, A. Sydney Circular Quay Sydney Battle ship in harbour Harboir bridge Bathing resor ? Sydney Harbour Distant view of Sydney Head from “arbour Close up of Sydney head View of Sydney Heads x from outside Port Moresby Expeditions boys on board Veimauri Ditto M.H. Veimauri Native canoe Ditto Main street Native on Cock Mr . Oldham Native on Dock Natives on dock on leaving of Boat Fish caught outside Harbour Yule Island Shark caught off Yule Island S.S. Papuan Chief Kairuku King Fish Natives on board M.V. Veimauri L. Rand <5SL <5 7 r ?b ry-/of //O - / / S 86-20-22 Papua 23 24 25 Western division Dap Range 27 28 Strictland ???? from Air showing above head of luap valley Western end of Mt. Sare from air Left side of picture, Mt. Sare and right side Dap Range Eastern end of Mt Saree in foreground Mt. Mabion mid distance 29-30 31 Lime dtone . Scene from the south Big ben in Palmer rigerat Megre at Megregor Mt. Blutcher scenex f 32- 33 34 Taken by L.J. Brass Mt. Blutcher as seen from south zide Juneti op Palmer andqg Plan d \Z87-S5At. Sea 26-27 26 28-29 AustraliaQueensland Brisbane 30 32-35 Papua Western Division Daru 45-45 Tropic Birds Ditto Entrance to River Rogers working on Motor R.R.Rogers Cutting G. H. H.. Tate's hair Bamu pay-off boys in front of Luff's store v/ 88-18 Papua Delta Division 19-22 23 24- 26 27 28-36 37- 41 , 42 WesternDivision 43 Taken by A. L. Rand \/89 23-24 Papua W 0 stern Division 25- 26 28-30 Daru 31-37 38- 39 41 42-45 45-gfi 1 3-4 7 8 9 10 Slopes East of Leanard Murray Mt. Mt. Leanard Muarray Leanard Muaaay slopes of Mt. Leanard Murfay — Slopes of Leanard Murray Mt. Leanard Murray cloud effects Near Mouth of Oriomo River Mainland opposite Daru Look-out on MV Veimauri On Board M. V. Veimauri drifting ## Nipa island Stranded Tura-tura canoes in from fishing on Warrior reef Green Turtle on ane of above canoss Native W. C. natives constructing ramp for Kono Captive hawk Haleiastur sphenurus View of manrgrove at extreem eastern end of Daru Island Ornamented Bamu canoe bringing witness for murderxtrxl! trial Roads from our veranda Plane on ramp, canoes in back-ground three local natives watching plane 10-12-24 Papua Delta Bivision 25-28 29-33 34 35 36-37 #8-431 Western Division Daru 41 42-43 Taken by A. L. Rand \/9l-29-31P Papua Western Division 52-57 58 59-43 Delta Division 1-9 10-12 Taken by G. H. H. Tate '>'92-23-25 Papua Central Division Port Moresby 27 28 29^^ _ . — ^Western Division Daru 30 ^ 31 32-33 Take by G. H. H. Tate Lake Marguerita Looking towards Gilowar Mountain Looking East from Lake Marguerite Lake Marguerite view Township from a ip souther edge of island with Bistow Kono on ramp after return from Lake Lake Murray from air Native in canoe Lake Murray ? Mt. Leanard Murray Series showing Lake Marguerita Crater of Leanard Murray On board M.V. Veimauri Port Moresby from dock on board M.V .Veimauri Town from read boa+’ Boys cleaning up to go ashore Daru Warf v93-5 Papua Western Divisicn Daru 6 7 8 9 10-12 13 14 18-26 27-33 Dr. Vernon looking at Pawpaw tree Dr. Vernon at home on farm Bydnophytum on Dr. Vernon’s farm Picnic table under bambo at Dr. Vernon’s farm Young kapok tree Dr. Vernon's farm General views of Dr. Vernon's farm Cook hous and garden at Dr. Vernons farm Tee tree Savanah arival of Kono Dugong pictures Taken by G. H. H. Tate 94-33-57 Papua Western Division Baru 39-41 42-43 44 45 1 4 5_7 Mabaduane 8 9 10-11 12 14 15 16 17 Sailing canoes with plane and base camp in back ground Rand holding Bird nest. Boys cutting grass Errecting pedistle for radio Airplane and buildings from porch of main house Comparison of head form in Rattus ringens ( left) and Rattus brachyrhinus ( right) Government rdst-house King street monument to vitims of cyclone general view showing granite boulde- rs rest-house King Street Sea Shore looking west Dwarf Coconut Sea shore looking East 94-18 Papua Western Division Mabaduane 19 20 21 22 Take by G. H. H. Tate and R. i. Family on porch of native house Old man who remembered D* Albertis Groupe of women and boys and two men just returned from gardens Granite rock on sh re East of Village Fig tree with roots growing over granite boulder by shore East of village A 141-7-8 Papua 8-9 11 - Western Division Old Mowatta 12 16-17 19-20 21-22 23-24 25-26 27-28 29-30 31 Mabaduan 32 33 34 Taken by L.J. Brass i \/l4 2 -3 7 -3 8 Papua Western division Mabaduane 39 40-41 42-43 44 45,1 2-5 6-7 % 10-11 12-13 See no 19-20b etter p ctures 21-22 Edge of sedge swam (Eleo charis # 6467) with Nymphaea # 6472 growing in open water. The tree Excoecaria # 6464. Melaleuca leucadendron swamp forest woth undergrowth of insgxx PhjEragmites Phneumat&phores of tree #6465 Mangrove forest dominated by itkiz Avicennia #6222 with ground cover of Acrostichum # 6211, note Avicennia Phneumatophores Pure swamp forest of Excoecaria #6464 Pandanus #6407 on foreshore at Old Mowatta village Our camp at Mission teacher's house in back ground beach forest Calophyllum inophyllum Views of Old Mowatta village Fruite head Pandanus # 6407 Bahe (#6475) in open mangrove forest on sandy foreshores Phneumatophores of X Hahe (#6475) Tall mangrove forest of #6475, Excoecaria #6464 & Rhizophora mucronata Kative church Dwarf soft shell coconut tree Women & children in village street A coconut planted street in village Village sceen showing granite rocks a Group of village children Vie® of village from beach, large s sailing canoe under construct- ion in foreground Village street Rocky coast line at village, coconuts & Pandanus #6407 Village girls Village scenes Concrete monument to five mxhHsbc mabaduan men lost in Thursday IsL pearling in Cyclone disaster L934 Rocky coast line East of village left foreground Wongai tree (M^musops #6476) in background mangrove forest. 14 Cont. 142-15 Papua 16-20 145-26-28 Papua 55 45,1 Western Division Mabaduan View over anchorage East of Village Savanah forest & Large Termite mounds two miles West of Village Dominante grass Themeda triandra tree stocking chiefly Melaleuca leucadendUDn var. coccinea. Taken by L. J. Brass Western Divison Daru Captive Dupetor flavicollis Ljo.. i'-'c m Lake Cambel from air Mt. Leonard Murray from air Note:- remaining air picture un recognisable perhaps when printed. Taken by A. L. Rand. Plane Schedule of Expedition Day #1 May 15 17 May28 Contacts Willis 610 mi. murk delivers 10 days suppli es 22 June 5th Contact " ill is at Mt» Elucher delivers 10 day supplies ,, June 15 Plane starts delivering 2-| months stores delivering chutes 1 -st 7--—' — ■ mr July l 5? July 10 Plane contact j^lmer Junction after finishing deliveries Mt. Blutehes, to pick up five boys and specimens -&8 July 11 - - — — - -y*ju 76 July 28 Plane deposits ixicfixth starts depositing 1 mo food 777 99 lug 20 Advance party Willis leaves for mountains I Willis & HealeV establish camp Bairn 4e^ot J Camp has been changed, Willis Starts for ^Imer Junction u ' trf ,, n ■> •« M u U 7 Willis at Palmer junction Plane ditto 111 Willis back at Faim ( ■ J r .. y Camp having been change willis start PiJ. Willis ditto Willis Faim Same as 99 Willis back at Faim 99 Schedule #2 199-202 Nov 27-50 same as 107 & 111 212 Dec 10 Willis back at faim 222 Dec 20 Camp change to Blucher, will does not go P. J. 229232 Dec 27- 50 Plane make contact Blutcher otherwise same as 107-111 no contact Palmer junction dirt S ?@- - d. " ,1^ * . ■ ■ *s' 0 'ry ^P 0 *"' 1 < 2 . .^QX) yj. ■t.\ /X'-JL- £f*~i'lu~ * rj /y//> t- 2 ^ , <■'; -— — ' / /&&¥ XU L pxiv r- j^c^s A «-^ W& AxLy, ../ LA^r/ J ^>7 'gXX ^2’-t- / i, 1 «*w / *V— w^(_i 93 .^,^>dt,-C-? 4 AJ c ' J&t'Z-t..' 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