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ROUND THE YEAR IN THE GARDEN
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ROUND THE YEAR
IN THE GARDEN
A Descriptive Guide to the Flowers of the
Four Seasons, and to the Work of
each Month in the Flower,
Fruit, and Kitchen
Garden
raw “By
H; H:’ THOMAS
j
Author of ‘‘ The Ideal Gandce:” “The Garden at Home,” etc.
Beautifully Iffustrated with Twelve direct
Colour Photographs by H. ESSENHIGH
CORKE, and Sixty-four Half-tone Plates
NEW YORK
FUNK AND WAGNALLS COMPANY
First published 1916
Aw
PREFACE
RounD THE YEAR IN THE GARDEN is an inexhaustible
theme, to which I make no claim to have done full
justice. Hach month deserves a volume, the year a
shelf of books. A perennial source of delight is
found in watching the seasons round in a garden.
One is taught to appreciate the joys of the present,
to forget the disappointments of the past, and, with
enthusiasm, to anticipate the promise of the future.
Failures will be experienced, even the shadow of
dismay may cloud the horizon, but the interest of the
garden is so varied, so sustained, that the perplexities
of one moment will be eclipsed by the pleasures of
the next. Who feels bored in a garden must be a
very dull person indeed—or a fair weather gardener,
and for him there is no hope. It is not by planting
in spring and gathering flowers in summer that the
heart of the garden is won; rather is this aim
achieved by an acquaintance which has deepened to
friendship, and through friendship ripened to love.
RouND THE YEAR IN THE GARDEN makes no
pretence to be a complete “calendar of operations,”
though it is concerned in bringing to notice some
of the flowers, fruits, and vegetables of the seasons,
and in indicating the chief garden work to be done
¢
Preface
each month. In preparing the volume, an endeavour
has been made to include information that is
known to be of use and interest to amateur
gardeners. It has proved impossible to describe
in detail the hundred and one minor tasks which
arise as the gardening seasons pass, yet the con-
solation remains that reference to much that is
obvious and of comparatively little value has been
avoided.
Some of the notes contained in the following
pages have appeared in the Morning Post during
the last year or two, and my acknowledgments
are due to the Editor, Mr. H. A. Gwynne, for per-
mission to make use of them here.
Heb ee
CONTENTS
OCTOBER—LOOKING FORWARD
NOVEMBER — AUTUMN WORK FOR SUMMER
FLOWERS
DECEMBER—MAKING PLANS
JANUARY—THE PASSING OF WINTER
FEBRUARY—DAWNING SPRING
MARCH—SOWING AND PLANTING
APRIL—MAKING READY FOR SUMMER
MAY—LILAC TIME
JUNE—FLOWERS AND FRAGRANCE .
JULY—HIGH SUMMER
AUGUST—THE GARDENER’S HOLIDAY
SEPTEMBER—WANING AND WAKING FLOWERS .
Vii
PAGE
188
259
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
COLOURED PLATES
Borders of Fairy or Dwarf Polyantha Roses Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
In the Garden at Woodside, Chenies . : ‘ : 12
Rock and Herbaceous Border at The nies Seven-
oaks s 26
In the Flower Gar den at Chea Bes pH
Phlox in the foreground . : ! 36
A Garden of Roses and other Flowering Shr i ‘ 48
An Old-World Border at the ae rae Seven-
oaks Y 66
High Summer in ‘ab ‘Garden : : ; 4 : 80
Snapdragons and Climbing Roses . : ‘ ‘ Sane WE!
In a Kentish Rose Garden . : ‘ Na! 6
Rock and Pool Garden at Shoreham ite : . 184
Weeping Standard Roses : 4 : sh LOG
Rose Arches and Borders of Hardy iowa : a) 2a
BLACK AND WHITE PLATES
FACING PAGE
Springtime in a Little Formal Garden : : A 6
Little Formal Garden planted with Snapdragons . 6
Decorative Onion (Allium ursinum) . : : ; Y
The striking Allium karataviense : : ‘ : (i
Spanish Irises in a Paved Garden : f : 14
Charming Late Summer Flowers — Out-of- Hane
Chrysanthemums ; : : ; k : : 15
ix
List of Illustrations
FACING PAGE
Flower Border, Shrubbery and Rock Garden .
Flower-Fringed Path in the Rockery .
A Beautiful peer Flower of May (Camassia
Leichtlini) E : ‘ , :
Rose Mrs. F. W. Vanderbilt .
Among the Roses and Rockery Flowers in (sae
The Satin Flower (Sisyrinchium striatum)
Lily of the Valley Grown in Fibre
Snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa) .
Rock and Shrubbery Border . ;
Shasta Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum),
Summer Starwort (Hrigeron Quakeress)
Dog’s-tooth Violet (Erythronium californicum)
A Handsome Snowdrop (Galanthus Elwesii)
Pear Louise Bonne of Jersey .
Pear Beurré Diel
Autumn Fruiting Raspberries , ‘ ‘
A Typical Bloom of Japanese Chrysanthemum
The Italian Garden at Drummond Castle .
Mountain Clematis (montana) on a Cottage in Surrey
Alpine Anemone (Anemone alpina)
Himalayan Poppy (Meconopsis integrifolia)
A Prostrate Broom (Cytisus Kewensis)
In the Garden at Drummond Castle
Bush of Old Double Pink Paeony .
Tea Rose Lady Roberts .
Dwarf Phlox (Stellaria lilacina) in ‘the Rock e@usan
Two Rock Garden Flowers — wpe Bellflower
and Mexican Daisy
Climbing Roses re Reéné Ande sual Alietie
Barbier .
A Winter-flowering Shrub fate elliptica)
D
18
18
96
97
List of Illustrations
FACING PAGE
Clematis Nellie Moser :
A Charming Pink Stonecrop (Sedum dle
Crocus Imperati albidus—A Showy Spring Flower .
Smothered in Purple Blossom—Clematis Jackmani
Golden-rayed Lily (Lilium auratum) Grown in
Flower-pot : :
An Alpine Buttercup (Ranunculus montanus) .
The Mountain Avens (Dryas octopetala)
The Remarkable Cow Parsnip, or Heracleum
A Rock Garden Plant, Alyssum spinosum
Malmaison Carnations in a Yorkshire Garden .
Well-fruited Tomatoes in Pots
The Opal Variety of the Italian Alkanet (Anehinsa
italica) :
A Charming Rock ee (Primula ha ot
alba) é
The Creeping Sandwort daa balearica)
An Edging of Mossy ‘Saal and Snow in Summer
(Cerastium)
A Bush of Japanese Maple in an Irish ution
Summer House, Paved Path, Rock and Water
Garden
Canterbury Bells, gaanian Tises anil Tufted Panels
Grape Alicante, a good Black Variety for Amateurs
Rose Marquise de Sinety, Shades of Red and Yellow
A Row of Modern Sweet Peas
Rose La France Bordered by Pale Blue Viola .
Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses
Paved Path and Rose ies leading from Bease
to Garden é
An Arch of Rose Claire Aisuies
A Caucasian Primrose for the Rock Garden eran
Juliae)
xi
100
101
101
108
109
118
119
128
129
132
133
138
139
139
144
144
145
154
155
155
160
161
170
171
174
175
List of Illustrations
FACING PAGE
Home and Garden , i : : , ; ]
A Rock Border Planted with Satin Bee
Kniphofia, etc.
A Little Garden Pool made Watertight with Cement
Woodland and Water—Japanese Iris in the Fore-
ground : ;
A Sunk Garden of Summer Flowers
A Group of Hardy Azaleas
Pink Rhododendron and Bluebells
Mexican Orange Blossom (Choisya ternata)
The Persian Lilac (Syringa persica)
The Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius)
Potato Sensation
A Satisfactory Bed of ee
A .Pretty Yarrow for the Rock Garin (Achilles
argentea)
Bellflower (Campanula aun in Tee any
A Terrace Rockery .
A Rockery Formed by Arranging oe ge ‘Boulders
in Irregular Groups
North American Trumpet owen ieaunte Waa
Decorative Chrysanthemum Belle Mauve
New Zealand Daisy Bush . 5
The Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho)
182
Round the Year in the Garden
OCTOBER
Looking Forward
HO shall say when the year begins? For each
and every one of us at different times; for someone
it is always beginning. For myself, the year dawns
when the flowers are fading, and the leaves change
colour; when long nights succeed short days and sun-
shine is something to hope for; when the ground is
sodden and the wind chants mournfully through the
leafless trees, and fog and gloom settle upon the land.
A mirthless picture indeed, yet—
**Can Fancy’s fairy hands no veil create
To hide the sad realities of Fate?”
Verily, for the dawn of the garden year flushes the
dim future with roseate hue, warming to fresh life the
brown buds and bare twigs, and peopling with a thousand
flowers the beds and borders now void of visible life.
To every gardener who loves the earth and the flowers
it yields, the passing of one year is but the advent
of the next; thus is he able to dream such dreams
and build such hopes as will ensure a garden of
delight.
Gardening has its depressing moments, and it is as
well to avoid them. While the flowers are sleeping let
us draw chairs to the fire, warm our slippered feet, and
pile up the catalogues that come by every post; let us
B I
Round the Year in the Garden
turn their pictured pages that portray the successes
and ignore the failures, that show the results and make
no mention of the labour. Thus shall we anticipate joy-
fully, look forward hopefully, and heigho! the garden
is aglow with blossom — gorgeous Tulips here, there
stately Hyacinths, elsewhere colonies of Squills and
Fritillaries, and everywhere patches of white Snowdrops,
blue and yellow Crocuses, and a host of others which
the mind’s eye readily conjures up. Even if some of
the dreams prove false, the castles, seeming firm, prove
but of air, we shall have laid the foundation of success
which depends upon intelligent and enthusiastic antici-
pation.
Autumn shall be the dawn of our garden year. Let
us dream of the good things the earth has in store, but
let us not be laggard in enticement; it is certain that
with the fullness of day, dreams will vanish—let it not
be said that our labour has been in vain.
It is a far cry from October to April, and only ex-
perience can teach the wisdom of long preparation in
advance; it is easier to plant bulbs at Christmas, when the
season of their blossoming looms in sight, than in October,
when the consummation of their beauty seems such a
long way off. If words of mine fail to impress the reader
with the value of timely preparation, let me record that
in “The Garden that I Love,’ Veronica found that
“Doing things in good time is the secret of successful
gardening,” and even Veronica’s poet could find no words
to gainsay its truth. If wise, we shall acknowledge
autumn to be the chief season for planting. Well might
we cry “The flowers are dead, Long live the flowers!”
and forthwith prepare to crown queen the dawning
year.
Among the Hardy Flowers
Strange and Familiar Bulbs.—So far as hardy kinds
are concerned, it seems to be true that the smaller the
2
October—Looking Forward
bulb the earlier you must plant it for, as a rule, the little ,
ones are the first to bloom. September is the month
in which to put in the Snowdrops, Crocuses, Squills, Grape
Hyacinths, Fritillaries, and others; if they are still within
their brown paper bags do not delay further but, wet
or fine, put them in the ground. There are plenty of
other kinds which may now worthily occupy our at-
tention.
It is often urged against the professional gardener
that he is ultra-conservative in his methods, but it is
equally true of the amateur, so far as his selections are
concerned, and especially with reference to bulbs. There
is nothing to be said against the practice of filling one
bed with Emperor, another with Empress Daffodils, and
so on, except that it is very ordinary gardening and to
be compared with planting the same beds in summer with
Geranium and Calceolaria which, however greatly they
may add to the gaiety of the garden, are painfully
monotonous. Do not, I beg of you, continue to order
just those ordinary kinds of bulbs which are to be seen
jn everyone else’s garden; try others which may be but
names to you. You may experience a few disappoint-
ments, but they will be as nothing in comparison with
the delight that follows upon the discovery of some fresh
treasure.
It must be confessed that some bulb catalogues are
very ordinary, and one may search through them in vain
for anything more thrilling than the usual Tulips,
Hyacinths, Daffodils, and others equally common. But
there are catalogues that describe black and green and
fragrant Tulips; red Squills; Wood Anemones in white,
yellow, blue and rose: remarkable Alliums (the Onion
is an Allium); exquisite winter Crocuses; hardy Cycla-
mens; golden Fritillaries; giant Snowdrops; Irises that
blossom in winter; white, blue and rose Grape Hyacinths;
and Angel’s Tears, Hoop Petticoat and Cyclamen-flowered
Daffodils. With such flower wealth at command—why
3
Round the Year in the Garden
continue to restrict your choice to those few kinds that
are ubiquitous?
Half the joy of gardening lies in trying fresh flowers ;
why plant a garden at all, if only to use such plants as
are grown to perfection in public parks and gardens?
The garden at home should be different ; it should possess
individuality, even in its selection of bulbs. Having
obtained the right catalogue, do not merely turn its pages
casually with an admiring glance at its fine illustrations,
but delve into the store of good things; order them
and plant them and watch with a gardener’s joy the
coming to life of something you have never seen before.
Then shall your garden have an interest perennial and
ever new. Just a few words concerning planting, then
together let us search a catalogue that I will choose.
Concerning planting.—Everyone knows that ordinary
herbaceous plants grow better in ground that has been
deeply dug and manured than in that which has been
merely forked over; that is a truism. Yet lots of people
believe that bulbs will grow anywhere. So they will, after
a fashion; even if you plant Hyacinths (as I have seen
done) so that only half the bulb is beneath the soil they
will blossom, because, fortunately for the happy-go-lucky
gardener, Hyacinths are more or less independent of soil
and will flower if given only water in which to grow.
But what a travesty of gardening such planting is!
There is no need to dig a trench to grow bulbs to per-
fection, but the soil must be stirred to a reasonable
depth, say 18 inches, which does not necessitate laborious
digging. Given this, and as much sand as you can
afford (all bulbs like plenty of.sand), together with a
fair sprinkling of bonemeal and wood ashes some 12
inches below the surface, and there remains but to plant
the bulbs at the proper depth, and watch and wait for
the first days of spring.
How deep should bulbs be planted? Some of the
specialists put 6 inches of soil over their May-flowering
4
October—Looking Forward
Tulips and vow that they are not too deep. Those of
us who grow flowers in a more commonplace way say
that you need only cover a bulb with rather more than
twice its own depth of soil. I believe that flower
connoisseurs are responsible for much of the doubt and
perplexity which exist among amateurs. They “take
up” a flower, and not satisfied with ordinary results,
they delve and dig and coddle and fuss to such a frightful
extent, that he who has grown similar flowers since he
was a boy rubs his eyes and wonders what topsy-turvy-
dom is this !
Ornamental Onions.—Let us now look through such
a catalogue as I have mentioned, one in which figure
strange and familiar bulbs, and fashion from its bewil-
dering list a selection to suit the amateur who has a soul
above that of the jobbing gardener. First on the list is
Allium, which, in popular language, one may call orna-
mental Onion; all of them thrive in ordinary soil.
The two commonest are Moly, which is yellow, and
Neapolitanum, white. A _ striking kind with broad,
oblong leaves and large round heads of rosy purple
blossom, is karataviense; flavum with drooping heads
of yellow blossom, and ursinum, having white flowers, are
others to make a note of. All except karataviense are
suitable for naturalising in grassy corners and other odd
places. You have only to plant them from 2 to 4 inches
deep, according to the size of the bulb, and leave them
alone.
Those who have space on a warm border should plant
the corms or roots of the South African Sword Lily
(Antholyza paniculata), a plant with handsome leaves
resembling those of Gladiolus, and bearing, in summer,
spikes of crimson blossom. This is not to be recom-
mended for indiscriminate planting, but for those who
like to possess uncommon flowers of real worth. The
border must be well drained, and the compost should
be of loam or turfy soil, with which leaf soil and sand
5
Round the Year in the Garden
are mixed. If the reader lives in a cold district, he
should plant in spring and lift the roots in autumn,
in the same way as those of Gladiolus.
Flowers for Odd Corners.—What is it that mars
the charm of gardens so frequently? It is, I think, those
bare, odd corners which are a kind of “no flower’s land.”
They are dismissed with a shrug of the shoulders and the
exclamation that “ Nothing will grow there.’ But there
are things that will grow there. Take for example the
Arums or Dragon Flowers. One cannot pretend that
they are pretty; some might regard them as unpre-
possessing; even then they must in justice ask “Are
they less attractive than the soil and weeds they are
destined to replace?” If planted in a moist and shady
spot, they will give of their best, and one ought to be
correspondingly grateful. Probably the best of all is
Arum Dracunculus, 2 feet or rather more high, which
bears a greenish spathe in July. Then there is the
common Cuckoo Pint or Wake Robin of the hedgerows,
(Arum maculatum), of which the spotted leaves are not
unpleasing, though its chief glory is in autumn when
the orange -coloured fruits glow brilliantly enough to
bring a splash of colour to the darkest corner. If neither
of these appeals I have still one more to bring to the
gardener’s notice, namely, Arum italicum, which has a
pale, yellowish spathe in spring, and a second period
of beauty in autumn, when the bright red fruits are
held aloft on naked stem. There are even others, but
our tour of the garden, if it is to be fairly comprehen-
sive, must not be too detailed. It may be as well to
explain the significance of a spathe. It is easily made
clear by reference to the Arum Lily, which everyone
knows; the white part of the Arum Lily is the spathe
and the yellow central portion is the spadix. The flowers
cluster upon the spadix and are insignificant.
Mariposa Lilies.—In strong contrast to the Arums
are the Mariposa Lilies. If one confesses the Arums
6
SPRINGTIME IN A LITTLE FORMAL GARDEN
LITTLE FORMAL GARDEN PLANTED WITH SNAPDRAGONS
DECORATIVE ONION (ALLIUM URSINUM)
(White)
THE STRIKING ALLIUM KARATAVIENSE
(Rose coloured)
October—Looking Forward
to be “dull, but worthy,” one may be excused for using
laudatory adjectives in writing of the Calochortus,
Mariposa Lily or Star Tulip. One ought really to say
that the Star Tulips are botanically distinct from the
Mariposa Lilies, and were at one time included in a
different genus, but as this is not a botanical treatise,
they may well be grouped together, for they need similar
treatment. They bear cup-shaped flowers in a variety
of brilliant colours, and it is disappointing to record
that one must provide them with rather special
conditions. A warm, sunny border is essential; the next
thing is to ensure perfect drainage, which is most readily
accomplished if the soil is heavy by making a bed above
the ground level. The compost they like best consists
of peat and leaf soil, with plenty of silver sand inter-
mixed ; or one may dispense with the peat and use a
little light loam instead. The chief point is to prepare
a porous mixture. October is an excellent month in
which to plant; the bulbs are placed 2 or 3 inches deep
and about 4 inches apart. Even then one has not done
all that is required, for they must be protected from
rains during winter by means of a frame placed over
them, there to remain until growth starts in spring.
At that season air is admitted, gradually at first, and
finally the frame is removed. The flowers are in full
beauty in early summer; when they are over and the
stems begin to wither, one has to see that the “ ripening ”
of the plants is complete, and this can be ensured only
by keeping them dry. Thus, if necessary, as it is in
a rainy season, the frame must be replaced, although
air ought to be admitted freely, and in such a way
that the soil remains dry. There are many sorts of
Calochortus, but, to begin with, the amateur should
obtain a few of the numerous varieties of Calochortus
venustus. The Eldorado strain itself contains some
gorgeous flowers; citrinus is yellow with reddish
markings ; roseus is rose coloured; Vesta is white with
7
Round the Year in the Garden
various markings, while oculatus is purplish rose marked
with black and yellow.
The Blue Camassia.—How rarely outside botanic
gardens does one see the beautiful Camassia or Quamash
from North America, yet this is among the finest of early
summer bulbs. One of the illustrations gives a good idea
of Camassia Leichtlini, which grows about 3 feet high and
bears numerous starry cream-coloured flowers. Others
are esculenta, blue, and Cusickii, lavender blue. One has
only to plant the bulbs about 5 inches deep in ordinary
well tilled soil in October, either in a sunny or partially
shaded spot; they may be left undisturbed for years. It
is scarcely advisable to put them in the flower border,
because their large leaves are rather untidy, and it is not
an easy matter to hide them.
Lily of the Valley is so familiar and so widely planted
that one would think there was nothing more to be said
about it. But I have an interesting tale to tell. I re-
member on one occasion advising a reader of some notes
of mine to take up and replant some crowded Lilies of
the Valley, of which the flower spikes decreased in length
and the flower bells in size each year. I was immediately
taken to task by another correspondent, who related that
her own garden contained a splendid and very old bed
of Lily of the Valley. One day a professional gardener
who happened to see them said that the roots were much
too crowded, and advised their being taken up and re-
planted. Since then, she averred, scarcely a flower had
appeared, and she believed it would be years before the
bed regained its former beauty. The moral of this is
that if your Lily of the Valley bed is flourishing, leave
it alone. One of my happiest recollections is of a Lily
of the Valley bed in a western county; it flanked both
sides of a walk in the kitchen garden. The plants were
as thick as Peas in a pod, yet they flowered profusely. I
was assured that they had not been disturbed for twenty
years, yet they showed no sign of deterioration. There
8
October—Looking Forward
is no doubt that, generally speaking, Lily of the Valley
prefers to remain undisturbed. But if the plants are ob-
viously unhappy, the only thing to do is to take them up
and replant ata greater distance apart. Much may be done
to keep them healthy by applying a top dressing of leaf
soil and partly decayed manure each autumn. In plant-
ing Lily of the Valley, choose a position partly shaded
from the sun, for example, a bed or border facing west;
have it dug 18 inches deep at least and plenty of manure
and leaf soil mixed in. The crowns (each separate root
is called a crown, and a certain number of crowns make
up a bundle) should be put about 3 inches apart and at
such a depth that the tops are only slightly covered.
But this is a wayward plant. You may take the greatest
pains to establish it and be less successful than those
who treat it in haphazard fashion. Must I confess that
the only Lilies of the Valley I now possess are those that
came underneath my neighbour’s fence, and he, I am
sure, took no great pains to establish them. So at the
end of this long paragraph I am inclined to think that
I have made “much ado about nothing.”
King’s Spear or Eremurus.—How noble a plant is
the King’s Spear, of which the botanical name is Ere-
murus! Why amateurs should habitually neglect it I
am at a loss to understand. When in bloom in early
summer it makes an imposing display. It thrives in
deep, well-drained loamy soil. The spikes of some
kinds tower to a height of 6 or 8 feet, and the upper
part of the stem is covered with small blossoms. The
roots are almost as remarkable as the flower stems;
they are thick and thong-like, radiating from a central
bud like the spokes of a wheel. They are brittle, and
should be handled with care. A soil covering of 4 or
5 inches is necessary, and it is advisable to place a
mound of ashes on the surface of the soil immediately —
above them for the sake of protection during winter.
Eremurus looks especially well towards the back of the
9
Round the Year in the Garden
flower border or in some prominent place in the large
rock garden. The best kinds are Bungei, soft yellow,
4 to 5 feet; himalaicus, white, 6 to 8 feet; robustus,
pale rose, 8 feet; and Warei, bronze salmon shades, 6
feet high.
Colour Schemes with Hyacinths.—Among popular
bulbs for October planting, the Hyacinth takes high
place. It is curious that a plant of such pronouncedly
stiff growth should invariably be placed in lines or
rows; in no other way could its stiffness be emphasised
more distinctly. One should exercise some discrimination
—plant it in little groups, rounded or irregularly shaped,
and endeavour, following Messrs. Sutton’s lead, to group
the colours to the best advantage. There are some
delightful shades among the Hyacinths, and many
opportunities for creating charming colour groups are
offered. Why not, for example, mingle pale rose and
pale blue; cream or pale yellow and blue; dark blue and
light blue; cream and crimson; and so on. Colour
groups arranged along the front of the flower border
are altogether charming. If a bed must be filled with
Hyacinths let each group consist of a separate variety,
and arrange the’ colours in harmonious juxtaposition.
Hyacinth bulbs ought to be covered with about 2 inches
of soil and put from 5 to 6 inches apart. The largest
bulbs are not necessarily the best; the surest indications
of quality are firmness and weight. The bulbs of some
varieties are naturally larger than those of others, but
even then weight and firmness are of importance.
A few of the best singles are: Grandeur a Merveille,
blush ; Grand Maitre, light blue; King of the Blues, blue ;
City of Haarlem, pale yellow; General Pélissier, crimson ;
Gertrude, rose; and Lord Balfour, purplish shade. Of
doubles, one might choose Jaune Supréme, yellow;
Blocksberg, light blue; Koh-i-noor, reddish; La Tour
d’ Auvergne, white; and Noble par Mérite, rose.
While writing of Hyacinths it may be worth while
10
October—Looking Forward
to draw attention to the charming little Hyacinthus
amethystinus, which bears a miniature spike of bluish
flowers in early summer. It is delightful for the rockery
or for choice spots elsewhere in the garden.
Spanish and English Irises are splendid flowers of
early summer, the former opening in early June and the
latter a week or two later. The prevailing shades of the
Spanish kinds are yellow, blue and white, while the
English Irises are of mauve, purple, white, crimson and
other colours. One may obtain named varieties, but it is
searcely necessary to do so. The opinion appears to
prevail among amateurs that these bulbs ought to be
planted in spring and taken up again in autumn.
Nothing could be farther from the truth; they are
perfectly hardy and thrive best if planted in October.
They may be left undisturbed for several years, until,
in fact, they become so crowded that it is necessary to
replant. The time to do this is as soon as the leaves have
died down. Groups of Spanish Iris are particularly
welcome in the rock garden, in the flower border,
between Border Carnations, and even among the Roses.
The bulbs are put about 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart.
The English Irises are more vigorous than the Spanish
kinds, and should be covered with 3 inches of soil and be
placed quite 6 inches apart. They are better suited for
the flower border than the rockery. Within recent years
a new race of bulbous Irises has been obtained; they
are known as Dutch Irises because they were raised in
Holland, and bear a close resemblance to the Spanish
kinds, though they bloom rather earlier.
The Flag Iris.—October is a suitable month in which
to plant the Flag or German Irises, an invaluable race
of plants. They will flourish in all sorts of odd places,
on a shady border, in full sunshine, on a hot bank in
poor soil, and I have even seen them on the top of a’
stone wall with the scantiest of soil covering to the roots,
Most people make the mistake of planting them too
11
Round the Year in the Garden
deeply. It is necessary merely to cover the rhizome (as
the rootstock is called) very slightly, certainly with not
more than 1 inch of soil. The Flag Irises greatly dislike
being disturbed. Usually they do not blossom the first
season after planting, so, in choosing a place for them,
one should decide that the plants are to remain there.
There are many charming varieties among the Bearded
Flag Irises, from which one may choose albo-caerulea,
white with blue flush; Darius, yellow and purple ; Floren-
tina, creamy white ; Germanica, the common purple kind ;
Gracchus, yellow; Madame Chereau, white and blue;
pallida dalmatica, lavender blue; and Victorine, blue and
purple. The petals of the Iris are classified as standards
and falls; the standards ‘are the upright petals and the
falls are the drooping ones. The colour of the standards
is frequently distinct from that of the falls.
The dwarf Bearded Flag Irises are not commonly met
with in amateurs’ gardens, yet their early flowering
should commend them for planting in the rock garden
or on a sunny border. There they yield welcome bloom
in spring and early summer before the ordinary Flag
Irises are out.
Among the Beardless Flag Irises (the distinction be-
tween these and the Bearded kinds is chiefly that there
are hairs on the falls of the latter and not on those
of the former) deserving of particular mention are the
Siberian Iris (sibirica), a lovely pale blue kind that thrives
especially well by the waterside; the vigorous Iris
orientalis, yellow and white; Iris Missouriensis, pale blue
and yellow; Iris Monnieri, light yellow, a strong growing
sort ; and Iris graminea, blue and purple.- The beautiful
winter-flowering Algerian Iris (unguicularis or stylosa)
is classed among the Beardless kinds also. Everyone
should grow a plant or two of this for the sake of its
fragrant, lavender-coloured blossoms in winter. It must
be planted on a warm, sunny border, preferably at the
foot of a wall, and thrives best in light soil.
12
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ax ab
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October—Looking Forward
The Japanese Irises are unsurpassed for gorgeous
colouring and, if the correct conditions are provided, they
offer little difficulty to the gardener. They must have
deep, moist soil and a sunny situation, and never look
so well as by the waterside. However, it is not everyone
who has a pond or stream by which to plant them, yet
that is no good reason why they should be neglected.
They will thrive in the flower border in deep, loamy soil
that is kept thoroughly moist in summer. The individual
flowers of some of the, new varieties are large and of
dazzling colouring ; but they are expensive, and a mixed
collection of older, mixed sorts is gorgeous enough.
Lilies to Plant in October.—There are so many
spurious Lilies among garden flowers that the amateur
may be pardoned if sometimes he is unable to distinguish
between the true and the false. The only true Lilies are
those of which the botanical name is Lilium; a few fami-
liar examples are the Tiger Lily, the Madonna Lily and
the white Trumpet Lily. The bulbs of many kinds are
obtainable in autumn and ought then to be planted. So
many people restrict their choice to the golden-rayed
auratum, the rose-coloured speciosum, and the orange,
black-spotted tigrinum, all of which they plant in spring.
The bulbs of Lilium auratum are not generally obtainable
until towards the end of the Old, or early in the New,
Year, and in this case planting out of doors may well
be deferred until spring, but the bulbs of the Tiger
and speciosum Lilies are available in October. It is per-
fectly true that some Lilies are capricious and need
special conditions to ensure success in cultivation, but
a far greater number are as easy to grow as ordinary
border flowers. Why do not amateurs plant them ?
They are not expensive, and each year they increase in
size and beauty. It is advisable to mix sand freely in
the soil immediately round about the bulbs.
Of those suitable for planting in an ordinary, well-
tilled border the following are to be recommended:
13
Round the Year in the Garden
* Batemanniae, 3 feet, apricot coloured, blooms in August ;
bulbiferum, 2 to 3 feet, orange, June (this kind produces
small bulbs in the axils of the leaves ; they offer a ready
means of increase, and should be planted in boxes of soil
at first); chaleedonicum (Scarlet Turk’s Cap), 3 feet,
brilliant red, blooms in July; *croceum (the old Orange
Lily of cottage gardens), 3 feet, June; Hansoni, 4 feet,
yellow, June; Martagon, 3 feet, purple, June (the White
Martagon is one of the loveliest of Lilies); pyrenaicum
(Yellow Turk’s Cap), 18 to 24 inches, yellow with black
spots, May and June (the odour of the flowers is rather
unpleasant); *speciosum and its varieties album Kraet-
zeri (white) and Melpomene (crimson), 3 to 4 feet, August
and September; *thunbergianum, 18 inches, orange
yellow, June (there are many named varieties, of which
Orange Queen and Prince of Orange are among the best) ;
*tigrinum and its varieties Fortunei and splendens,
4 to 5 feet, August and September; * umbellatum, 2 feet,
orange colour, June. All these should be planted in
October, for they are hardy and thrive better than when
planting is deferred until spring.
Then there are Lilies which need moist, peaty soil
and are grateful for a little shade, but these requirements
are not difficult to fulfil. A few kinds suitable for such
positions are canadense (Canadian Lily), 3 feet, orange
yellow, July; pardalinum (Panther Lily), 5 feet, orange
and yellow marked with crimson, July; and superbum,
6 feet, orange red, July.
There are other lovely Lilies for early autumn plant-
ing, such for example as testaceum (Nankeen Lily), 4 to 5
feet, soft yellow, June; and .*Henryi, 6 feet, orange
yellow, August (neither of which is difficult in fair soil
among shrubs), but probably sufficient has been said to
convince the reader that many lovely and satisfactory
flowers are to be found among the easily grown garden
Lilies, and to arouse in him some desire to possess
them.
14
Naqduvo CGaAVd V NI SHSIXI HSINVdS
SNWOWAHLNVSAYHD AXOOdG-4O-LNO—SaxaMOTA YANWANNS ALVT ONINAVHSD
October—Looking Forward
The bulbs of some Lilies form roots freely at the base
of the stem above the bulb, while others produce roots
below the bulb only. It is necessary to plant the former
kinds at such a depth that there is about 5 inches of
soil above them. The latter sorts, those that root from
the bulb only, should be covered with about 3 inches of
soil. In these notes stem-rooting Lilies are distinguished
by an asterisk. Most Lilies thrive particularly well
among shrubs, for the young stems thus receive welcome
protection in spring.
All about Daffodils.—The remarkably high prices
asked for bulbs of the newer varieties of Narcissus or
Daffodil must often cause surprise to the non-professional
grower. It is not uncommon to find bulbs of the latest
creations listed at several guineas each, and one imagines
they can only find a home with those who wish to use them
for purposes of cross-fertilisation, in the endeavour to
produce finer and still more expensive sorts. It is not
conceivable that the average garden lover will pay
guineas for certain Daffodils when, for a few shillings a
dozen or even a hundred, he can obtain others which, if
not equally fine, are at least very beautiful. The modern
highly priced Daffodil is a fancier’s flower, and in the
hands of experts undergoes continual change, which
does not necessarily enhance its symmetry of form. Yet
the grace of the Narcissus has ever been its greatest
charm. One may be pardoned for wondering how much
bigger the trumpets must be before they satisfy their
creators, and whether the broadening of the petals until
they overlap and the metamorphosis of the cup really
add to the grace of the flower. Our debt to the
hybridists is for their work in extending the range of
colour in the Narcissus; remarkable results have been
achieved in this direction.
The Lesser Daffodils are among the most fascinating -
flowers of spring, and all too little grown. What can
be more enchanting than the dainty Hoop Petticoat
aS
Round the Year in the Garden
Daffodil (Narcissus Bulbocodium) and its citron-coloured
and white varieties, named, respectively, citrinus and
monophyllus; the Cyclamen-flowered Daffodil (Narcissus
cyclamineus); the Angel’s Tears Daffodil (Narcissus
triandrus albus); the small Rush-leaved Daffodil (Nar-
cissus juncifolius); minimus, a tiny yellow flower; the
pure white Narcissus moschatus, and Narcissus Johnstoni
Queen of Spain, a comparatively small soft yellow
trumpet flower? A cool, well-drained spot in the rock
garden suits them well, although some of them may
be naturalised on the outskirts of trees.
Trumpet Daffodils.—The. varieties of Daffodils for
planting in beds and borders, and for naturalising in
grass, are innumerable. Among the finest yellow
Trumpets are Emperor, Glory of Leiden, Golden Spur
(especially valuable for growing in pots under glass),
King Alfred, obvallaris (the Tenby Daffodil, an early
kind, smaller than the others named), P. R. Barr and
Van Waveren’s Giant. Of bicolor Trumpets (those in
which the trumpet is yellow and the perianth white)
a few good ones are Apricot, Duke of Bedford, Empress,
Horsfieldii, J. B. M. Camm, Mrs. Walter T. Ware, Victoria
(excellent for pots in the greenhouse) and Weardale
Perfection. The white Trumpets are particularly
beautiful, and everyone ought to grow at least a few
of them; such for example as albicans, Madame de
Graaff, Mrs. Thompson and W. P. Milner.
Chalice-cupped and Star Narcissi.—Next on the
list, according to the accepted classification, come the
Chalice-cupped Narcissi, of which representative varieties
are Autocrat, Beauty, C. J. Backhouse, Frank Miles,
Gloria Mundi, Sir Watkin, Stella and Stella superba.
The Barri or Star Narcissi have a smaller cup or crown
than the Chalice - cupped varieties. Beautiful sorts
are Agnes Barr, Albatross, Burbidgei, conspicuus,
Firebrand, Flora Wilson, John Bain, Seagull and
Vanessa. The Eucharis - flowered Narcissi are only
16
October—Looking Forward
distinguished from the two former classes by their
colouring. The flower is white or pale, while the cups
of the Chalice-cupped and Star Narcissi are usually
brilliantly coloured, and contrast strongly with the
light perianth. The Eucharis - flowered kinds are very
charming, and one may with advantage select such
as Leedsii, Ariadne, Duchess of Westminster, Katherine
Spurrell, Minnie Hume, Mrs. Langtry, Salmonetta, Una,
Waterwitch and White Lady. Among the true Poet’s
Narcissi there are now some lovely flowers, though the
best are still expensive. Almira, Cassandra, Herrick,
Pheasant’s Eye, ornatus, poetarum and White Standard
are some of those of reasonable price.
On Growing Daffodils.—The most convenient way
of growing Daffodils is in beds by themselves ; when the
time comes to prepare for summer flowers the bulbs are
taken up and planted on a reserve border, there to
remain until the leaves have died down. In due course
they are lifted and stored, and replanted in October.
But this is certainly not the most picturesque way of
planting. They look far better in groups in the herba-
ceous border and shrubbery, and in grassy corners, or
if one has sufficient room, naturalised in masses in grass,
among thin woodland, and by the waterside. Perhaps
in the latter position they are most attractive of all, for
their graceful flowers gain an added charm from the
reflection on the water surface. So many people
complain that Daffodils and other spring-flowering
bulbs are a nuisance in the flower border after their
beauty has passed, but that I think depends upon how
and where they are planted. if one scatters them in
twos and threes all over the border, or groups them
towards the front, it is true that their fading foliage
will prove an eyesore, for it does not disappear until
July. If, however, the bulbs are grouped towards the
back of the border, among the vigorous perennials, such
as Michaelmas Daisy, Helenium, Aconitum, Sunflower,
C 17
Round the Year in the Garden
and others, their leaves are gradually hidden as the
herbaceous plants progress.
Daffodil bulbs ought to be put at such a depth that
they are covered with quite twice their own depth of
soil. I am sure that most amateurs plant them much
too near the surface. When planting in grass care
should be taken to make the holes of such a width that
the bulbs will reach the bottom; otherwise they may
be suspended an inch or so above the soil, in which case
the roots will perish.
A few of the best varieties for naturalising in the
garden are Emperor, Empress, Stella, Stella superba,
Mrs. Langtry, William Goldring, Waterwitch, Horsfieldii,
Barri conspicuus, Minnie Hume, obvallaris and maximus.
In conclusion, it may perhaps be as well to explain
the significance of the terms Daffodil and Narcissus ;
their indiscriminate use is somewhat misleading. The
title of Daffodil is usually applied only to those flowers
in which the central cup is large and prominent, and
as long as, or longer than, the petals or segments of
the perianth. They are known as Trumpet Daffodils.
The remaining kinds, in which the central cup is not
so long as the perianth segments, are termed Narcissi.
However, the botanical name of the genus is Narcissus,
so that the Trumpet Daffodil is a Narcissus eounly
with all others.
The Expense of Gardens.—Few amateurs have found
gardening to be so cheap as they expected, but that is
scarcely matter for wonder, since similar disillusion ensues
in almost any recreation that may be taken up. So many
additional items that were not thought of, or were ignored
originally, seem necessary, on closer consideration, to
such an equipment as is likely to ensure success. On
reflection, one must allow that garden of fair size
cannot be furnished without moderate outlay, but
subsequently gardening is, I think, expensive or not
as one chooses to make it. It is possible to have a
18
FLOWER-FRINGED PATH IN THE ROCKERY
A BEAUTIFUL HARDY FLOWER OF WAY (CAMASSIA LEICHTLINI)
(Cream white)
October—Looking Forward
border full of delightful flowers that cost little, or a
border of no greater charm filled with flowers that
cost very much more. One of the chief delights of
gardening is that the limited expenditure of one may
produce just as charming a garden as the lavish outlay
of another, providing it is dispensed discriminatingly.
Often enough, the only difference is that the latter
buys new plants, while the former is content with
those that are common. They are not less attractive
on that account, and, in fact, are often to be preferred ;
their worth has been proved by long cultivation,
while novelties are often lauded to an extent that
is not justified by their subsequent behaviour in the
garden.
If it is somewhat expensive to start gardening, how
cheap to continue, if only one takes advantage of
opportunities, as they occur, of augmenting the stock
of flowers that are cherished. Those hardy plants of
greatest value for display usually grow vigorously, and
in the course of a season or two may be increased to
any extent. The secret of successful plant growing,
upon which gardening is chiefly dependent, lies in
thorough initial soil preparation and in timely atten-
tion. Haphazard spade work, and doing things at the
wrong time, are the chief reasons why so many complain
that their gardening is expensive. To pursue gardening
with pleasure one needs also, perhaps to an unusual
degree, to possess the virtue of patience. It is a
common and, I think, a natural failing with those who
take possession of a new garden to strive for immediate
effects, though the results are invariably disappointing
and the methods inevitably expensive. A garden that
is planned and planted to a design hastily conceived
rarely pleases; until one has come to know the garden, .
one is not in a position to decide how it may be filled
to the best advantage. It has been said that one
should see the year round before planting anything at
19
Round the Year in the Garden
all, and if the statement is rather exaggerated, at least
the moral is plain to see. It is only by watching a
garden approach gradually to the ideal one set out to
achieve that full pleasure is gained; the progress of
the trees and plants may give even greater delight
than the consummation of their beauty.
The most interesting and easily the cheapest way of
adding to the treasures of a garden is to raise plants
from seed. Most herbaceous perennials bloom in the
year following that in which seed is sown, and they grow
with remarkable vigour once the seedling stage is passed.
It isa mistake to purchase big plants, especially of shrubs.
Choice shrubs are expensive, and their loss is bound to
lead to disappointment. The risk of failure is minimised
if small specimens are planted in early autumn.
Alterations in the Garden.—The season of waning
flowers has its own peculiar compensations in the oppor-
tunities afforded of preparing for another year, and of
carrying out such alterations as may have been decided
upon. While it is true generally that the garden which
was well planned in the first place and has grown old
with the passing years charms us most, there is always
scope for alterations of some extent. To the gardener,
happily disdainful of the intervening months, and visual-
ising next summer’s display, come inspirations for im-
provements in the arrangement of beds and borders and
walks, and for fresh planting. No phase of gardening
is more exhilarating than that of working to a fresh
design, whether it be merely perfecting an awkward curve,
forming a new rose bed, or the more ambitious task
of making a rockery or planting a new flower border. It
were perhaps idle to attempt to suggest improvements
likely to be useful generally, yet so many gardens
exemplify similar errors that even a wide statement may
possibly contain details that are of value in individual
cases.
In planting the garden some people consider it only as
20
October—Looking Forward
a place in which to grow flowers, and it deteriorates into
a series of beds and borders, lacking charm and void of
inspiration ; it is, in fact, a flower show.
Winter-flowering Begonias.—These are among the
most delightful of greenhouse flowers. They are of two
kinds, the small-flowered class, of which the popular pink
Gloire de Lorraine is typical, and the large-flowered kinds,
of which Winter Cheer and John Heal are examples.
72
November—Autumn Work for Summer
The former make little bushes that become smothered in
small blossom; the larger flowers of the other class are
undoubtedly more handsome, though they are not pro-
duced quite so freely. They need a minimum temper-
ature of 60°. Both kinds are increased by means of
cuttings. When the flowers are over the plants are
kept dry at the roots for a few weeks, for the purpose
of giving them rest. Subsequently the stems are cut
down, water is again supplied, and when fresh shoots are
about 2 inches long they are taken off and inserted as
cuttings.
A Blue Winter Flower.—The Coleus is grown chiefly
for the sake of the numerous varieties with handsome
and richly coloured leaves, but there is at least one kind
valued for its blue flowers in winter, viz. Coleus thyr-
soideus. This is an admirable plant for amateurs and
needs only a temperature of from 50° to 55°. When the old
plants have finished flowering the shoots are cut back,
and in due time fresh growths will form; these are suit-
able for cuttings when 2 or 3 inches long, and will form
roots without difficulty in pots of sandy soil placed in
a case or under a bell-glass in the warm greenhouse. In
due course they are potted singly in small pots, in a mix-
ture of loam, leaf-soil and sand, the first-named material
in greatest proportion. When well rooted in the small
pots, they are repotted in others 5 inches wide. They
make quick growth and the points of the shoots need to
be taken out occasionally to ensure well-branched plants.
This is first done when they are 6 or 8 inches high and
again when the secondary shoots are of similar length.
In the Fruit Garden
Many amateurs start flower growing in a more or less
haphazard way, perhaps without knowing very much
about the subject, and, finally, after a few failures, they
arrive at success, No great harm has been done, and
73
Round the Year in the Garden
no serious expense incurred. It is a different matter |
with fruit trees. In the first place, they are expensive;
secondly, they will often outlive the planter; and thirdly,
he has to wait a few years, even when conditions are
most favourable, for a fair return in fruit. The con-
sideration of such points as these ought to make one
pause before embarking upon the planting of fruit trees
without having gained some knowledge of the subject
or sought advice. It used to be said that “He who
plants Pears, plants for his heirs,” and, with the same
degree of truth, a similar statement might be made
regarding Apples. Fortunately, it is not wholly true,
for much depends upon the kind of trees obtained. If
standards or bushes of Apples on the Crab stock, and
standards or pyramids of Pears on the Pear stock, are
planted, then the old adage may be said to contain a
good deal of truth; if, however, bush Apples on the
Paradise and pyramid Pears on the Quince stock are
obtained, a fair crop of fruits may be expected within
two or three years, although the trees will not be at
their best until much later. Trees on the Crab and Pear
stocks are valuable chiefly for planting in orchards, or
where plenty of space is available, while those on the
Paradise and Quince are used for planting in cultivated
soil of the garden, especially if the garden is of limited
extent. Those on the Paradise and Quince form fibrous
roots near the surface; consequently smaller bushes are
developed, which come quickly into fruit-bearing. The
others spend the early years of their lives chiefly in
making growth, but they are longer lived, and, once well-
established, will last for generations. For the average
amateur, bush trees on the dwarfing stocks (as the
Paradise and Quince are called) are preferable; they
take up comparatively little room, and soon begin to
give a satisfactory return.
There are many and various kinds of dwarf Apple
and Pear trees. There is the ordinary bush Apple
74
November—Autumn Work for Summer
and pyramid Pear (the latter is distinguished from a
bush by the possession of a central stem, and is the
form in which the Pear is most conveniently grown);
there is the cordon, having one stem, or two or three
stems, which may be trained in a perpendicular, vertical
or horizontal. direction. Further variation is found in
those trained in the form of a fan or with the branches
disposed in a horizontal direction, in tiers one above
the other. Cordons are to be recommended to those
who wish to grow as many varieties as possible; they
may be placed against a fence or wall, or trellis in the
open garden. Trees having their branches trained in
horizontal tiers are often put against a trellis in the
open, but they may be grown on a wall, in which
position fan-trained trees are usually placed. Apples
are not commonly planted against a wall, except in
cold districts, or in other localities for the purpose
of obtaining fine specimens of rich colour. On the
other hand, Pears are particularly suitable for walls;
the flavour of the fruits is more highly developed from
trees in such a position than from those in the open.
They will, at least in southern and south midland
gardens, thrive perfectly in the open garden either
as standards or pyramids.
A proper selection of varieties is of the greatest
importance in view of the fact that fruit trees are
comparatively slow in coming to maturity. With a
few notable exceptions it is doubtful whether it is
possible to give a selection that shall be ideal and
suited to all districts, because soil and climate exert an
influence on fruits. Local varieties, unknown to general
cultivation, are grown in certain districts, because,
from long experience, it has been found that they are
profitable there. Before completing his selection the
planter should inquire from local nurserymen or gar-
deners whether there are varieties of Apples or Pears
with a good reputation in the neighbourhood.
7S
Round the Year in the Garden
Self-fertile and Self-sterile Fruits. — Another aspect
of the subject that deserves consideration is that of
self-fertile and self-sterile varieties. It is probably
known to most amateur fruit growers that if one planted,
say, a Victoria Plum, in an isolated position, it would
bear fruits freely, whereas if the Greengage were
similarly treated it would prove disappointing. This
question, though of the greatest importance, has not
been the subject of exhaustive experiment, and the
available data do not form a complete index to self-
fertile and self-sterile fruits. A particularly interesting
article dealing with this matter has appeared in THE
GARDENER, written over a nom de plume by an amateur
who has carried out experiments for the purpose of
finding out which varieties of fruit are self-fertile and
self-sterile, and I am making bold to reproduce it here
for the benefit of those who may not have seen it
already. It is well worth studying, for it shows at a
glance the varieties that are likely to give satisfactory
crops when planted alone, and others from which good
crops must not be expected unless they are planted in
association with their ascertained affinities; in other
words, those which enable them to produce good crops.
APPLES
Self-fertile Self-sterile
1 Baumann’s Red Reinette 12 Allington Pippis (16), (36), (37)
2 Ecklinville Seedling 13 Annie Elizabeth
3 Golden Spire 14 Bismarck
4 King of Pippins 15 Bramley's Seedling (18), (8)
5 Kerry Pippin 16 Beauty of Bath (12), (18), (21)
6 Lord Grosvenor 17 Byford Wonder
7 Lord Derby 18 Cox’s Orange Pippin (7), (10),
8 Newton Wonder (12), (15), (16), (29), (80), (32),
9 Pott’s Seedling 34), (35
10 Stirling Castle 19 Grenadier (7), (28), (81), (83)
11 Washington 20 James Grieve (10), (18)
21 Lane’s Prince Albert (7), (10),
(16), (19), (25)
22 Lord Hindlip
23 Mere de Mendes (84)
24 Northern Greening
25 The Queen (1)
26 Worcester Pearmain (18)
27 Wellington
76
AKYANS NI ADVLILOD V NO (VNVINOW) SILVNAIO NIVINQOW AHL
(VITOAINDALNI SISHONOOUW) AddOd NVAVIVAIH (VNId1TV¥V ANOWAHNV) ANOWANY ANId TV
November—Autumn Work for Summer
Used for Cross-pollination
28 Crab
29 Devonshire Quarrenden
30 Duchess’ Favourite
31 Early Victoria
32 High Canons
Self-fertile
1 Conference
2 Duchesse d'Angouléme
3 Durondeau
4 Doyenné Boussoch
5 Hacon’s Incomparable
33 Hoary Morning
34 Lady Sudeley
35 Langley Pippin
36 Ribston Pippin
37 Summer Golden Pippin
PEARS
Self-sterile
6 Beurré Clairgeau
7 Beurré Diel
8 Catillac (19)
9 Clapp’s Favourite
10 Doyenné du Comice (21)
11 Louise Bonne de Jersey
12 Pitmaston Duchess (8), (11), (14)
13 Souvenir du Congrés
14 Williams’ Bon Chrétien (15)
(17), (18), (20)
Used for Cross-pollination
15 Beurré Easter
16 Beurré Giffard
17 Duchesse d’Angouléme
Self-fertile
1 Czar
2 Denniston’s Superb
3 Damson
4 Karly Favourite (Gisborne’s)
5 Early Transparent
6 Early Myrabelle
7 Golden Transparent
8 Kentish Bush
9 Monareh
10 Magnum Bonum Red
11 Magnum Bonum White
12 Oullin’s Golden Gage
13 Pershore
14 Prince Engelbert
15 Reine Claude Violette
16 Reine Claude de Bavay
17 Victoria
18 Warwickshire Drooper
18 Fertility
19 Josephine de Malines
20 Le Lectier
21 Winter Nelis
PLUMS
Self-sterile
19 Black Diamond
20 Bradley’s King of ea ae a
21 Coe’s Golden Drop (1), (2), (6),
(9), (15), (37), (38), (39), (40), (44)
22 Coe’s Violet
23 Cox’s Emperor
24 Curlew
25 Karly Greengage
26 Karly Orleans
27 Grand Duke
28 Histon Gage
29 Imperatrice
30 Jefferson as (9), (89), (40)
31 Kirke’s B
32 Late Gileaas
33 Late Transparent (5)
34 Mallard
35 Old Greengage (1), (9), (37), (89)
36 President
37 Pond’s Seedling (1)
38 Prune d’Agen
39 Rivers’ Early Prolific (1), (9), (26)
40 Teen d@Altham (21),
41 Sultan
42 Stint
43 Ysshinaton (37)
44 Wyedale
77
Round the Year in the Garden
CHERRIES
Self-fertile Self-sterile
1 Florence 8 Ambe Bigarreau (5), (7), (18), (18)
2 Kentish Morello 9 Black Tartarian
3 Late Duke 10 Burg d’Annay
4 Morello 11 Bigarreau Napoléon
5 Napoleon 12 Elton Heart (13), (19)
6 Rundle’s 13 Frogmore Bigarreau (7), (8)
7 Turk 14 Knight’s Black Eagle (7)
15 Knight’s Early Black (14)
16 Kentish
17 May Duke
18 Old Black Heart (4)
19 Rivers’ Early Black (8)
20 White Heart
“In the above lists, which are lamentably incomplete,
the numbers within brackets indicate the serial numbers
of the ascertained affinities. Among the self-sterile kinds
are included some which are so feebly fertile as to be
practically sterile. Coe’s Golden Drop would appear to
be rather a light-o’-love among Plums.
“No universal fertilisers have yet been found. If such
there be they will probably be wild fruits such as Crab-
apples, Sloes, ete.”
Planting Fruit Trees.—It is essential to prepare large
holes ; they should be 4 or 5 feet across and the soil ought
to be stirred to.a depth of from 2 to 3 feet. Itis a
mistake to mix manure with the ground, for the chief
difficulty experienced during the first few years is to
prevent. the trees growing too vigorously. This applies
especially to those planted in the garden proper; some
manure may be dug in the soil at the bottom of the holes
prepared for orchard trees. It is most important that a
space 8 or 4 feet wide should be kept clear round trees on
grass land; if the grass is allowed to grow right up to
the stems, the growth of the trees invariably suffers.
The same advice applies to the planting of standard
Roses on the lawn; a space clear of grass ought always
to be left round the stems. The uppermost roots of
dwarf fruit trees need be covered with only 2 or 3 inches
of soil. Stakes should be used for the purpose of keeping
78
November—Autumn Work for Summer
standards firm in the ground. This end ought not to
be attained by planting deeply. There is no necessity to
describe in detail the actual process of planting; it is
obvious that the roots must be spread out properly,
bruised and broken ones being cut back, and the soil
made firm about them. As to the correct time for plant-
ing fruit trees, there is none better than early November ;
they may be planted until late in March with decreasing
prospects of success, at any rate for the first season. It
is possible to plant them throughout winter, when the
weather is mild, and even as late as the end of March, but
the later in the season the work is carried out, the less
likely are they to make satisfactory growth the first
season. There is no need to protect the roots, except
perhaps in cold districts, where a covering of littery
manure may be advantageous.
Varieties of Apples—Many of us if asked for the
name of the best flavoured Apple would have no
hesitation in choosing Cox’s Orange Pippin, though there
are some who prefer Ribston Pippin. But individual
tastes are strange, and judgment would not be unanimous
in favour of these old varieties. There are only two Apples
that I personally enjoy—Ribston and Cox’s Orange—
but as I would rather have a juicy Joséphine de Malines
or Doyenné du Comice Pear, I am probably not a good
judge of Apples. However, I can give a list of those
that are considered to be the best available and are most
likely to succeed in amateurs’ gardens.
The following are twelve dessert varieties, the name
of the month in which they are ready for use being also
given: Mr. Gladstone (August), Lady Sudeley (September),
Margil (October), King of the Pippins (October), James
Grieve (October), St. Edmund’s Pippin (October, Novem-
ber), Egremont Russet (October, November), Adam’s
Pearmain (November, December), Allington Pippin
(November to January), Cox’s Orange Pippin (November,
December), Ribston Pippin (November), and Sturmer
79
Round the Year in the Garden
Pippin (March). Of cooking varieties the following form
an excellent dozen: Pott’s Seedling (August, September),
Lord Suffield (August, September), Stirling Castle
(September, October), Ecklinville Seedling (September,
October), Bismarck (November, December), Blenheim
Orange (November, December), Golden Noble (November,
December), Lane’s Prince Albert (December, January),
Sandringham (January, February), Bramley’s Seedling
(December to March), Newton Wonder (December to
April), and Wellington (December to April).
Notes on Pears.—A luscious Pear is probably chief
favourite among hardy fruits; it is, I think, preferred by
most people to an Apple. Pear trees are often less
disappointing than Apple trees; in an amateur’s garden
they are less likely to fail under injudicious treatment.
You may prune a Pear tree by rule of thumb, and it will
continue to yield good crops, whereas an Apple tree needs
more intelligent management. The Pear bears abundantly
from spurs, short stubby growths that form at intervals
throughout the full length of the branches. I have seen
old Pear trees the branches of which were covered from
tip to base with fruit spurs, the result of the simple ortho-
dox practice of summer and winter pruning. There is
a bewildering choice of varieties, and almost every
grower has his favourites. Of those to be recommended
generally the following are chief; the month (or months)
in which they are in season is given: Jargonelle (August),
Williams’ Bon Chrétien (September), Fondante d’Automne
(September), Conference—perhaps the most satisfactory
of all varieties for an amateur—(October), Louise Bonne of
Jersey (October), Thompson’s—considered by many to be
the most delicious Pear—(October), Marie Louise (October,
November), Beurré Superfin (October, November), Beurré
Hardy (October, November), Beurré Diel (November),
Doyenné du Comice (November), Winter Nelis (December),
Charles Ernest (November), Joséphine de Malines (Decem-
ber, January).
80
November—Autumn Work for Summer
Concerning Plums.—My experience of Plums, if one
excepts some of the prolific cooking varieties, is that
they are somewhat erratic in fruit-bearing. They crop
better when planted together than when isolated, and
the reader should study the lists on page 76 to ascertain
which are the self -fertile varieties. They may be
grown as standards or pyramids, or on a wall facing
west or east; in cold gardens the shelter of a wall is
necessary. Planting firmly in soil that has not been
manured, and in which lime - rubble has been mixed
freely, is an important consideration, for young trees
often make such vigorous growth as to become un-
fruitful, and the malady known as “gumming” may
then attack the branches. It is advisable to lift all
young fruit trees each autumn, for the first few years
after planting, if they form thick, unfruitful shoots;
otherwise they soon become unmanageable, and it is
almost hopeless, or at least takes a long time, to bring
them back to a fruitful condition. The uppermost
roots ought not to be covered with more than 2 or 3
inches of soil. A few of the most satisfactory dessert
Plums are Kirke’s (purple), Jefferson (greenish-yellow),
Reine Claude de Bavay (greenish), Transparent Gage
(orange yellow and green), Coe’s Golden Drop (yellow,
dotted with red), Oullin’s Golden Gage (yellow), Green
Gage (greenish) and Bryanston Gage (greenish-yellow).
All these are well worth planting against a wall, but
especially Coe’s Golden Drop (of which the fruits should
be allowed to hang until they are slightly shrivelled),
Jefferson, Transparent Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay
and Green Gage. Kirke’s is perhaps the best of all for
the amateur’s garden. Among cooking Plums good sorts
are Victoria (red, an immense cropper), The Czar (dark
purple), Rivers’ Early Prolific (purplish), Pond’s Seedling
(pale red), Monarch (purple) and President (dark purple).
Peach and Nectarine.—These delicious fruits need
a south or west wall, even in southern counties, and
G 81
Round the Year in the Garden
are not suitable for planting in northern counties. They
are among the easiest of fruits to grow if the trees
are carefully attended to for a few years after planting
and the method of pruning is understood. They need
well-drained loamy soil containing lime-rubble, but
no manure. In rich ground they, too, are apt to make
vigorous growth during the first few years following
planting, and the only remedy is to lift the trees each
autumn and shorten any thick roots that may have
formed. A few excellent varieties of Peach for out-of-
door planting are Stirling Castle, Royal George, Violette
HAtive, Alexandra Noblesse, Hale’s Early and Bellegarde.
Delicious Nectarines are Elruge, Early Rivers, Pineapple
and Pitmaston Orange.
Cherries are satisfactory fruits to grow, providing
they can be protected from birds; if not, then it is
useless to plant them. They are most easily protected
when grown against a wall, and as they will thrive
excellently on a wall with east or north aspect, there
are doubtless many positions in gardens which they
might fill to advantage. Not only the Morello, but the
Sweet Cherries are suitable for planting in these aspects.
Fan-trained trees against a wall usually bear splendid
crops, and they do not need a great deal of attention
beyond summer and winter pruning. It is essential
to keep down aphis in early summer; this pest attacks
the tips of young shoots and, if not destroyed, will soon
ruin them. Cherries, like all stone fruits, appreciate
lime-rubble in the soil; this must be made very firm
about the roots, and manure ought not to be added. A
few of the best varieties are Black Tartarian, Black
Eagle, Early Rivers and Knight’s Early Black (all
dark Cherries); May Duke (red, a splendid cropper),
Frogmore Early Bigarreau (red and yellow), Governor
Wood (red and yellow), The Noble (dark red), Kentish
Bigarreau (red and yellow) and Florence (red and yellow,
late).
82
November—Autumn Work for Summer
Raspberry.—No fruit is more easily grown than the
Raspberry ; all one has to do to keep the plants healthy
and free bearing is to plant in well-prepared soil, mulch
the surface in summer to keep the roots cool, and, in
autumn, cut out the canes which have borne fruit, tying
in those which have developed during summer; they,
of course, will bear the following year’s crop. These
remarks apply to the ordinary summer fruiting Rasp-
berries. Autumn fruiting kinds need different treat-
ment, for they bear fruits on the current year’s stems,
and are therefore hard pruned—cut to within a few
inches of the ground in February. Of summer Rasp-
berries good red sorts are Superlative and Norwich
Wonder; attractive yellow varieties are The Guinea
and White Antwerp. Of autumn Raspberries the chief
are Red and Yellow Four Seasons.
Gooseberry and Red and White Currants.—The
first-named fruit thrives in ordinary garden soil, and is
of the easiest cultivation. The only drawback, from the
amateur’s point of view, is its liability to attack by
caterpillars, which play sad havoe with the leaves if
allowed to spread. Methods of coping with this pest
are, to remove 2 or 3 inches of the surface soil in winter
adding fresh material; to dust the bushes with lime and
soot in early summer, when they are moist; to destroy
as many caterpillars as possible by handpicking; to
spray with Paris green or arsenate of lead—poisonous
compounds which must not be used within six weeks
of gathering the fruit. I feel sure that amateurs would
derive most satisfaction from Gooseberries and Red
and White Currants by growing them as cordons, with
one, two or three branches each. A large number can
be accommodated in a small space; they are easily and
conveniently pruned and attended to; the gathering of
the fruit is easy, and they bear splendid crops. Cordons ©
may be planted against a north or east wall, or a wire
trellis alongside the garden walk, wherever there happens
83
Round the Year in the Garden
to be room for them. In time amateurs will regard
cordons of Gooseberries and Red and White Currants
as the ideal form in which to grow these fruits. A few
of the finest Gooseberries are (of red sorts) Ironmonger,
Keen’s Seedling and Warrington; (of green sorts)
Langley Gage and Greengage; (of yellow sorts) Yellow
Sulphur and Champagne Yellow ; (of white sorts) White-
smith. All these bear comparatively small fruits. Those
who wish to grow giant Gooseberries should choose from
Crown Bob, Lancashire Lad, Whinham’s Industry and
Speedwell (all red sorts); Careless and Shiner (white) ;
Plunder, Stockwell and Thumper (green); Langley
Beauty, Ringer, Leveller and Keepsake (yellow). Of
Red Currants, Raby Castle and Fay’s Prolific, and of
White Currants, White Dutch and White Transparent
are satisfactory sorts.
Black Currant.—This accommodating fruit will thrive
in a partially shaded spot; it gives no difficulty if one
remembers to cut out the old shoots in autumn, to make
room for those of the current year’s growth, and if one
is lucky enough to keep the bushes free from the Black
Currant Mite, or Big Bud, a minute insect pest that
attacks the buds, causing them to become enlarged and
useless. When ordering Black Currants it is wise to
make inquiries as to whether the bushes are free from
Big Bud, for it is all important to start with healthy
bushes. Boskoop Giant is a favourite variety, though
the old Black Naples, which bears smaller berries, is
quite good also.
Canker in Fruit Trees.—Canker is one of the most
embarrassing diseases with which the fruit grower has
to contend ; there is little hope for a tree that is badly
attacked. Some varieties are especially prone to develop
this malady, particularly when growing on heavy land,
and it is as well to know the names, if only to avoid
planting them on soil of this nature. Ribston Pippin
and Cox’s Orange Pippin are unfortunately among them;
84
A PROSTRATE BROOM (CYTISUS KEWENSIS)
(Cream coloured)
IN THE GARDEN AT DRUMMOND CASTLE
ANO@Vd ANId ATHNOG AIO HO HSN
November—Autumn Work for Summer
if it is felt that these are indispensable, they ought to
be given a warm and well-drained position. Lord
Suffield, Warner’s King, Cellini Pippin and Lord Derby,
cooking Apples, are others liable to suffer from
canker.
As to remedial measures, all one can do is to cut off
small diseased branches, and cankered portions from
older branches, and subsequently to apply a dressing
of gas tar. Unless an affected tree is attended to in
this way, insect pests, and especially American Blight,
infest the decayed parts.
Root-Pruning Fruit Trees.—Young fruit trees are
liable to make vigorous growth, which, if not checked,
militates against the production of fruit. The remedy
is to lift and root-prune them. Root-pruning is drastic
treatment, but it seems the only thing to do when growth
is excessive and fruits are conspicuous by their absence.
It is accomplished by digging a trench some distance
from the tree and cutting back all thick roots that are
found ; search should also be made for similar roots that
descend abruptly, by forking away the soil beneath the
tree. Offending roots having been shortened, the soil
is filled in again and made firm. In dealing with young
trees the purpose is often fulfilled by merely lifting
them each autumn for the first two or three years, and
replanting nearer the surface. Root-pruning may easily
be overdone, and especially with older trees. I have
known fifteen-year-old Apple trees to be so severely
checked by this practice that they were moribund for
several seasons afterwards. The distance from the
stem at which the trench is opened varies according
to the age of the tree; it should not be closer than 3
feet, even in the case of young trees. In dealing with
old trees the roots on one side only are cut back the
first season, those on the opposite side being pruned the —
following autumn; moreover, the trench should be some
6 feet away from the stem.
85
Round the Year in the Garden
Maggoty Apples and Pears are usually numerous
owing to the ravages of the Codlin moth. The chief
measure of precaution at this season is to gather and
burn such fruits as are not fit for use, thus destroying
the grubs. It is wise also to remove a few inches of
the surface soil in autumn, replacing with fresh material,
and to place bands of hay round the stems to prevent
the larvae ascending the trees, which they do for the
purpose of hibernating in cracks and crevices of the
bark. In December the hay bands are taken off and
burnt. The way to get rid of this pest is to spray the
trees with arsenate of lead solution as soon as the flowers
have fallen in spring. It is necessary that the spray be
so directed that it falls on the “eye” of the embryo
fruit, for it is there that the grub finds entrance; once
inside, it works its way down the centre, and emerges
at the side of the fruit.
Fruit Trees Under Glass. — Peaches, Nectarines
and Vines grown under glass are important crops, and
more than ordinary care is needed to: keep them in a
healthy and fruitful condition. Apart from errors in
ventilation, and in regulating the temperature, the
commonest cause of failure is due to an unsuitable
border. Such complaints as the fall of buds from
Peach and Nectarine trees or their sparse blossoming,
the failure of Grapes to set, the shrivelling of the stalks
of the berries—all may be traced to the fact that the
roots are in unsuitable soil. In preparing to plant
fruit trees under glass most amateurs fall into the
error of making too large a border.
in early autumn. I have been astonished to find how
I2Z5
ri
Round the Year in the Garden
hardy the Chinese Primulas are. I have plants blooming
in an unheated greenhouse in which several degrees of
frost have been registered. Primula seed is small, and
should be sown thinly in well-drained pans of sifted
soil; it is covered only with a slight sprinkling of sand.
A temperature of 50° or 55° is high enough to ensure
germination within a few weeks.
Perpetual-flowering Carnations.—These are simply
invaluable to amateurs possessing a greenhouse in
which a minimum temperature of 50° can be maintained.
If seed is sown this month the seedlings will blossom
next winter. As with Border Carnations, it is neces-
sary to obtain the best seed, otherwise the flowers will
be poor, and it is no more trouble to grow good varieties
than indifferent ones. This, too, is the best time to take
cuttings to provide plants for next winter and early
spring. Although the Perpetual - flowering Carnation
is primarily a greenhouse plant, those that have
blossomed during winter will continue to do so throughout
the summer if planted out of doors in May. The cuttings
take root most readily in pots filled with silver sand
placed just above the hot-water pipes; the pots must
be covered with glass, which ought to be wiped dry at
least once every day. When roots have formed each
plant is potted separately in a small pot; when it is
about 6 inches high the point is pulled out to cause
side shoots to form. An excellent selection consists
of Winsor, rose; White Perfection, white; R. F.
Felton, pink; Duchess of Devonshire, crimson;
Enchantress, pink; Mrs. T. M. Crook, spotted with
crimson; Rose Doré, salmon red; Mikado, heliotrope ;
Britannia, red; and Mary Allwood, rose pink.
In the Fruit Garden
The pruning of hardy fruit trees has been explained
in the notes dealing with garden work in December, but
126
January—The Passing of Winter
may be carried out at any convenient time between the
third week of December and the end of January. It is
not wise to defer pruning later than that, except in the
case of Gooseberries, which are often attended to last of
all, owing to the damage done to the buds by birds. If
pruning is deferred as late as possible, the basal buds,
which are of chief importance, are more likely to be
unharmed. Fruit trees on walls ought to be trained
with some exactness, after pruning is completed. The
best method of procedure is to detach the stems, remove
all old shreds, which are often infested with insect pests
or disease spores, and re-attach the trees to the wall,
using fresh nails and shreds. Peach, Nectarine and
Cherry trees are invariably trained in the shape of a fan;
Pear and Plum trees may be trained in similar fashion or
with the branches arranged in horizontal tiers.
Planting and spraying may be continued during this
month, though, if the ground is very wet, planting is
best postponed. If it is intended to graft fruit trees
during March, scions or grafts ought now to be selected
and partly buried in the soil in a cool spot.
Fruit Trees under Glass——There is still time to
renovate the borders in which Vines and Peaches are
planted; even if itis not found necessary to do this, it is
beneficial to remove a few inches of surface soil and
replace with fresh turfy loam. Pruning ought to be
completed during this month; directions were given in
the notes dealing with work in December. [If it is in-
tended to produce a crop of Grapes in early summer,
preparations must be made at once. When the Vines
have been pruned and cleansed, the vinery is kept closed
for a week or two, though no artificial warmth is em-
ployed. At the end of that period a night temperature
of 45° is maintained, and in the course of a few weeks is
increased to 50°. Strawberries in pots may be forced in
the vinery, as conditions there suit them admirably ; they —
ought to be placed on a shelf not far from the glass.
127
Round the Year in the Garden
In the Kitchen Garden
The time-honoured advice given to kitchen gardeners
early in the year, is to make out, and dispatch, the order for
seeds, and there is sound reason for it. Possessing the
seeds, one is able to take advantage of suitable weather
conditions for sowing. It is disappointing to have the
ground ‘prepared, yet to be unable to proceed when the
opportunity offers, simply because one had failed to order
seeds. Further, having decided to grow certain varieties
of vegetables, it is annoying to find that they are sold out.
It is wise to prepare a rough plan of the ground to be
cropped, then an approximately correct quantity of seed
can be ordered.
Vacant ground ought to be dug as opportunity offers,
manure being used if the crop is such as to require freshly
manured land. The protection of Globe Artichoke and
Celery, by scattering a little strawy litter over them, is
advisable in severe weather. Parsley may be protected
by placing a frame over part of the bed, and Broccoli by
breaking the leaves over the heads.
Forcing Vegetables.—The forcing of Rhubarb, Sea-
kale and Chicory is easily accomplished by lifting the
roots and placing them in boxes of soil in a dark shed, or
other covenient position, as, for example, beneath the
greenhouse stage, providing the side is covered in. Rhu-
barb and Seakale are easily forced out of doors now, by
covering the roots with large pots and placing manure
round about them. Perpetual Spinach is an invaluble
vegetable, and roots from which the leaves have been
gathered may be lifted and placed in pots or boxes of soil
in a warm greenhouse; a fresh crop will soon be available
for gathering. Mint is easily obtained by lifting and
potting a few roots and growing them in the greenhouse:
It is advisable to make an early start in planting
Horseradish, for a long season of growth is necessary.
Roots about 8 inches long and 4 inch wide are covered
128
WOATIDVYAH YO ‘dINSUYVd MOO AIAVAAVNAA AHL
WOSONIdS WOSSAIV ‘INVId NAGUYVYD MOON NMOND-ATISVA GNV INdILOVad Vv
January—The Passing of Winter
with 2 inches of soil and put 10 or 12 inches apart. The
ground needs to be deeply dug for this crop, and if the
soil requires manure, this ought to be placed at least 12
inches down.
Seeds to Sow.—Broad Beans may be sown out of doors
towards the end of the month, ifan early supply is wanted;
a suitable variety is Beck’s Dwarf. Radishes germinate
quickly in a warm greenhouse, and an early and welcome
gathering of roots is obtained by sowing now. Seeds of
Cauliflower Snowball, if sown under glass, will produce
plants suitable for putting out of doors early in April.
Peas, too, may now be sown in pots in the greenhouse.
The variety Gradus is suitable. A useful crop of French
Beans can be grown from seed sown now in pots in the
greenhouse, while if early Tomatoes or Cucumbers are
required, a few seeds ought to be sown in pots under glass.
Those who grow Onions for exhibition, sow the seeds under
glass towards the end of this month. For ordinary pur-
poses it is not necessary to do so, although seediings raised
under glass are not so liable to be attacked by the Onion
fly as those sown out of doors later.
Making a Hotbed.—Those who do not possess a glass-
house may obtain early vegetables by means of a hotbed.
This is made of half strawy manure and half leaves, or
wholly of manure. The latter is turned several times
during the course of a week or ten days before being made
up. The bed should be trodden down firmly, and then
ought to be not less than from 2 or 8 feet in thickness. If
no frame is available to place upon the hotbed the latter
can be made in the ground, a low turf wall or a few bricks
being used to support a glass “light,” as the top of the
frame is called. A bed of fine soil about 6 inches in depth
is arranged on the hotbed, and there seeds are sown.
Atter the bed of manure is made, a little air should be left
on the frame for a few days to allow of the escape of fumes,
and for this reason sowing ought not to take place imme-
diately.
J 129
FEBRUARY
Dawning Spring
HE opening days of February mark the earnest
beginning of the garden year, and the laggard now
will be the loser later on. The increasing sunshine has
awakened the garden from its winter sleep and brought
joy to the heart of the gardener who began long months
ago. He who has delayed must procrastinate no longer.
The soil dries, enabling planting to be carried out in
greater comfort and with greater convenience. The
Snowdrops are already out, and the Winter Aconites—
little yellow flowers in frills of green—and the Crocuses
are opening wide to the pale sunshine. Daffodils,
Tulips, Hyacinths and Grape Hyacinths are fast spearing
through the soil, while the shoots of Spanish Iris and
Ixia, which made their appearance long since, seem
not to have suffered from the January cold. The buds
of the earliest Saxifrages, apiculata, sancta and others,
grow bigger every day, and show more colour, while
the tufts of some alpines that had lost their vivacious
green, or become sparse of leaves, are quickly regain-
ing their attractiveness. The awakening to fresh life
and beauty of the rock flowers is one of the delights
of the garden at this time of year.
Among the Hardy Flowers
Pruning Clematis.—When Clematises «are purchased
it is wise to ascertain to which class they belong, so
that one may know how to proceed with the pruning,
for some kinds bear flowers on the shoots of the previous
summer, and others on the new shoots of the summer
130
February—Dawning Spring
to come. The Jackmani Clematises are pruned to
within 18 inches or 2 feet of the base at this season,
providing they have been regularly pruned in this
manner; if, however, there is some length of bare
woody stem the shoots should be cut back only to
within about 18 inches of this. I will give the names
of some of the most familiar varieties in each section,
so that readers may know how to prune; should they
possess varieties other than those named, the vender
should be asked to say to which class they belong.
Well-known Jackmani sorts are the purple Jackmani,
Jackmani alba, rubra and superba, Mme. Ed. André,
Ville de Lyon, Star of India and Gipsy Queen. The
lanuginosa Clematises also bloom on the fresh growths
of the current summer, but they need rather less drastic
treatment than the Jackmani kinds; last year’s shoots
may be cut half-way back. Familiar varieties are
Henryi, Beauty of Worcester, Marcel Moser, Fairy Queen
and Lady Caroline Neville. There are some fine double
varieties among the florida kinds, which should not be
pruned in spring; the time to prune them is after the
blooms are over, then some of the old growths are
thinned out; Belle of Woking, Duchess of Edinburgh,
John Gould Veitch and Lucie Lemoine are excellent
varieties. Similar pruning is needed by the patens
group of Clematis, of which good varieties are Nellie
Moser, one of the chief favourites, Mrs. George Jackman,
Miss Bateman, Lady Londesborough, and Fair Rosa-
munde. The forms of Clematis viticella, which have
smaller flowers, are not so commonly grown, though
certainly deserving of cultivation; they bloom in late
summer and autumn. Ville de Lyon and Thomas Moore
are two fine sorts; the shoots should be pruned in spring.
Failures to establish Clematis may often be traced to
planting in heavy, ill-drained soil, and failing to cover |
the roots sufficiently deeply. It is wise to protect the
lower part of the stem with a piece of slate or fir
131
Round the Year in the Garden
branches until the plants are growing freely. The
upper roots should be covered with 2 or 3 inches of
soil, and lime rubble or broken plaster may be mixed
in freely with advantage.
The Indian Crocus.—Those who wish to have a
flower border edging that is not at all common should
grow the flower of the West Wind, or Indian Crocus, as
Zephyranthes candida is popularly called. It produces
dark green narrow leaves, and in August and September
yields a profusion of white flowers much resembling
those of the Crocus. The bulbs may be planted now,
about 38 inches deep. The display of bloom is not
likely to be good the first autumn after planting, but,
provided the bulbs are left undisturbed, there will be
plenty of flowers in subsequent seasons. The plant is
quite happy in a half shady position, as, for example, on
the edge of a border facing west. There are several
other sorts of Zephyranthes, though this is the only
one that is really hardy. Another bulb that seems
somewhat unworthily neglected is Veltheimia viridifolia ;
it is quite an excellent plant for the cool or cold green-
house. One can scarcely call it handsome, but the
pinkish-yellow,. drooping blooms that cluster towards
the top of a stem some 12 inches or more high are
quite attractive. It may be grown very easily in a
flower-pot in a compost of loam, with a little leaf soil
and sand added; it blooms in August.
Sowing Sweet Peas Out of Doors.—The method
of Sweet Pea growing most commonly practised nowa-
days is to sow seeds in pots in a greenhouse or frame in
January or early in February, and in April to plant the
seedlings out of doors. But seeds may be sown out of
doors from now until the middle or, in the Northern
counties, even the end of March, with every hope of
success, providing the ground has been previously dug
some 2 feet deep. Superphosphate of lime mixed in
the upper 12 inches in advance of sowing, at the
132
MALMAISON CARNATIONS IN A YORKSHIRE GARDEN
WELL-FRUITED TOMATOES GROWN IN POTS IN AN
AMATEUR'S GREENHOUSE
February—Dawning Spring
rate of 2 ounces per square yard, is largely used by
Sweet Pea growers. The seeds are sown about 6 inches
apart in a double row, and covered with 1 inch or so
of soil; if mice are troublesome the seeds should be
moistened and coated with red-lead before being sown.
Since disease is so common among Sweet Peas, it is
advisable to sterilise the seeds before they are put in the
ground, and this may be carried out by soaking them in
a solution of permanganate of potash for a few minutes.
A few varieties especially recommended for garden
display are Dorothy, lilac or pale mauve; Dobbie’s
Cream, cream ; Iolanthe, white ; Tennant Spencer, bright
mauve; R. F. Felton, lavender; Edith Taylor, rose pink;
and Maud Holmes, crimson. Among older varieties still
largely grown may be mentioned Dorothy Eckford,
white; Lady G. Hamilton, lavender; Zarina, pink; Mrs.
Townsend, white with blue edge; Helen Pierce, white
veined with blue; Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, pale pink;
Flora Norton Spencer, pale blue; and Helen Lewis,
orange and rose.
Pruning Early-flowering Shrubs.—Quite a number
of shrubs blossom during February and March when
outdoor flowers are scarce, and for that reason they are
additionally welcome. The interest of a garden is, I
think, dependent very largely upon the length of its
flowering season; the border having nothing but leaves
and stems to show until spring is waning to summer,
and little more when summer is passing, lacks many
good things of the flower world, and not least among
them are the early shrubs. The pruning of shrubs
generally seems imperfectly understood by many amateur
gardeners, and it may be worth while to mention a few
of those now in bud or blossom, and to describe how
they should be pruned. Almost everyone grows the
winter Jessamine (Jasminum nudiflorum), but few prune
it at the proper time, which is as soon as the flowers
are over; the growths that have blossomed are cut back
133
Round the Year in the Garden
to within three or four buds of the base, so that vigorous
shoots may develop which shall in turn yield fiowers
next winter. The fragrant winter-blooming Honey-
suckles (Lonicera fragrantissima and Standishi) need
little pruning, but thin and weakly growths ought to
be cut away. The golden Bell Trees (Forsythia) need to
be hard pruned when the flowers have faded, as advised
for the winter Jessamine. The Witch Hazels (Hamamelis),
with their curiously twisted yellowish flowers, are among
the quaintest if not the showiest of early shrubs; the
necessary pruning is provided by cutting out weakly
growths, thus keeping the branches thinly disposed.
The side shoots of the Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus
fragrans) need to be cut back after the fragrant
brownish blossoms are over. The sweet-scented Daphne
Mezereum grows slowly and needs no pruning. Magnolia
stellata, a lovely bush that bears a profusion of white
blossom in March, needs scarcely any pruning, except
that weakly shoots likely to crowd the centre of the
bush are cut out. The Flowering Currants that are so
gay in spring should have attention when the display
is past, some of the oldest stems being cut out, if this
seems needful. There is little to be done to Lilac at
this season, though sucker growths, those that develop
from the base of the bush, may be cut off; as fresh
growth starts, disbudding is practised with the object of
obtaining a limited number of good strong stems rather
than a large number of weak ones, which rarely flower
satisfactorily. Some other shrubs need hard pruning
in spring; the stems of that charming blue-flowered
August shrub, Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles, should be
shortened now, for the blooms are produced by the
fresh shoots. The same advice applies to the panicled
Hydrangea (paniculata) and to the St. John’s Wort
(Hypericum calycinum), both of which bloom best on
the fresh growths. Handsome summer-fiowering shrubs
are Buddleia variabilis and its varieties Veitchiana and
134
February—Dawning Spring
magnifica; last year’s shoots ought now to be shortened
to within two or three buds of the base. Now is the
time to prune late-flowering Spiraeas such as Aitchisoni
and japonica; weak shoots are cut out and the others
are shortened to within about 15 inches of the base.
Root Cuttings.—Propagation by means of root
cuttings is a method of increasing plants that is not com-
monly practised by amateur gardeners, except, perhaps,
unwittingly, when Dandelion, or Plantain, Couch Grass or
other obnoxious weed is imperfectly removed ; the pieces
remaining in the ground are able to produce fresh growths,
and so the plants ate perpetuated. Yet quite a number
of good plants are easily and preferably increased in this
manner. Most people who have grown the beautiful
blue Alkanet (Anchusa) have found it to be a doubt-
ful perennial, and probably have discovered that a
fresh supply of plants is obtained without difficulty
by means of root cuttings. The Japanese Anemone
(Anemone japonica) is another favourite hardy plant
that is readily propagated in a similar way, although
the same necessity does not arise in this case, since
the Anemone is a true perennial. The Burning Bush
(Dictamnus Fraxinella), which one does not see very often
now, though both the type and the white variety are
attractive border flowers—this, too, is increased by root
cuttings. The same method may be practised for obtain-
ing a larger number of plants of the handsome Plume
Poppy (Bocconia cordata). Owing to its spreading roots,
each little piece of which will grow, this plant is
difficult to get rid of when once well established, and
fresh growths continue to appear annually unless all
the roots are carefully picked out. Other border plants
of which root cuttings may be taken are Oriental Poppy,
Crambe orientale (Ornamental Seakale), Sea Lavender
(Statice), Monkshood (Aconitum), Paeony, Convolvulus,
and, of vegetables, Seakale and Horseradish.
The method of preparing root cuttings is of the
135
Round the Year in the Garden
simplest: the roots are cut up into pieces about 38
inches long and are inserted in soil either out of doors
or in flower-pots. In gardens of light, well-drained
land the cuttings may be placed out of doors, the
border having been first well prepared by digging.
But it is safer to put the cuttings in pots of light
soil, and to place these in a frame for some time
until leaf growth has developed. Planting out of doors
is practised in spring or early summer. The pieces
of root are usually inserted with the tops just below
the surface of the soil. Autumn or early in February
is a suitable time for taking root cuttings.
In the Greenhouse
Yellow Arum Lilies.—The yellow Arum Lilies are
far less commonly seen in gardens than the white
sorts. Amateurs undertaking their cultivation are apt
to treat them like the familiar Easter Lily, as the
white Arum is sometimes called, with disappointing
results. The roots or tubers should be at rest during
the winter months. When, in late summer, the flower-
ing season is over, and the leaves begin to lose their
freshness, the supply of water to the roots should be
gradually discontinued; when the leaves have fallen,
watering should cease. The roots remain in the pots
of soil during winter, the latter being turned on their
side so that the soil is kept dry. They must, of course,
be stored in some frost-proof place. In spring the roots
are taken out and repotted in fresh soil, and grown
in a heated greenhouse. The flowering season is summer.
The two best yellow Arums are Elliottiana and Pent-
landi, of which the rich yellow spathes and handsome
leaves give a striking display.
Dahlias and Room Plants.—If Dahlia roots which
have been stored during winter are now placed in
boxes of soil and kept moist, growth will soon com-
136
February—Dawning Spring
mence, and cuttings may then be formed from the
young shoots, or the clumps can be divided for plant-
ing out of doors later on. The old roots usually yield
a large number of flowers of moderate size, while
plants grown from cuttings give fewer but finer blossoms.
Those having no heated greenhouse may plant the tubers
out of doors in April. The roots of Cannas should
now be treated similarly; the stock of plants can be
increased readily by dividing the clumps. Now is the
time to start into growth other greenhouse roots, such
as Begonia, Achimenes and Gloxinia. Ferns and palms
that need repotting should be attended to at this season;
a compost of two-thirds loam, one-third peat, with plenty
of silver sand, is suitable for most of them. Maidenhair
Ferns are much improved if the old fronds are cut off;
fresh ones will soon grow. Now also is the time to repot
such room plants as may need this attention: Aspidistra,
Dracaena, Indiarubber plant, and others. A soil similar to
that advised for ferns is suitable. It is a mistake to use
larger flower-pots than are really essential; the plants
are generally healthier in comparatively small ones, pro-
viding they are properly watered. If old plants of
Zonal Geraniums are pruned now, fresh shoots will soon
form and should be taken off and inserted as cuttings
to provide plants for next winter.
Cuttings of Chrysanthemums for decorative purposes
should still be inserted in pots of sandy soil. Those
put in early in the year are now rooted and must be
kept cool, otherwise they will become weak and “ drawn.”
As soon as well rooted in the small pots they must be
repotted, using a compost of turfy loam with which a
little leaf soil and sand are mixed.
Bedding plants ought now to be increased from cut-
tings as they are required. Stock plants potted last
autumn make rapid growth in a warm greenhouse and
shoots are soon available for cuttings. They form roots
readily in pots or boxes of sandy soil. Cuttings that were
137
Round the Year in the Garden
nserted in autumn are well rooted and their tops may
now be taken off as fresh cuttings.
Sowing Larkspur and Lupin.—Among hardy plants
of which seeds may be sown now to produce flowering
plants this year Delphinium (perennial Larkspur) and
Lupin hold high place. Lupins grow most rapidly and
will be in bloom in August, if not before; Delphiniums
are not so accommodating, but small flower-spikes may
be expected in late summer and quite good ones next
year. Seeds of first-class sorts in mixture may be
obtained, and some of the seedlings will prove as fine
as named varieties. The charming pale mauve Scabious
(Scabiosa caucasica) will bloom in late summer from
seeds sown now in warmth, so, too, will that lovely
golden-yellow flower Coreopsis grandiflora (which is
unsurpassed both for border display and for cutting)
if grown quickly and given liberal treatment. I have
never been able to induce Border Carnations to flower
the first year from seed, but by sowing now splendid
plants are obtained by autumn, and the following
summer they yield sheaves of blossom in all sorts of
bewitching colours. Really good seed must be secured,
then the percentage of single flowers will be small and
the double blossoms of excellent quality.
I believe most amateurs who grow Carnations from
seed fail to get good results because they sow too late;
February and March are the best months. The details
of cultivation are much the same in the early stages for
all these plants. A temperature of 60° is best, though
rather less warmth will suffice. Shallow pans or boxes
are more suitable than pots, since they offer a greater
surface and less depth; they should be drained with
crocks for about one-quarter of their depth, filled with
sifted sandy soil, and moistened by immersion to the rim
in a bowl of water some hours before the seed is sown.
It is unwise to sow the seeds thickly ; otherwise the seed-
lings become drawn and weakly and spoil each other. A
138
VARIETY OF THE ITALIAN ALKANET (ANCHUSA ITALICA)
THE OPAL
(Light blue)
THE CREEPING SANDWORT (ARENARIA BALEARICA)
February—Dawning Spring
covering of glass and brown paper will help to keep the
soil moist, and this is of the greatest importance in
ensuring germination. When the seedlings are 1 inch
or so high they are transferred to other pots or boxes ;
subsequently they are hardened off and planted out as
becomes necessary.
Rock Plants from Seed.—The possession of quite a
number of alpine plants raised from seed sown in Febru
ary of last year reminds one how easily many of them are
grown in this way. Some will blossom during the coming
summer, though most will not flower until next year.
That charming rose-coloured Primrose (Primula frondosa)
is certainly one to begin with; a packet of seeds will
provide at least a score of plants, and a 33-inch wide
flower-pot is big enough to accommodate each one until
flowering time. Mine have been in pots of this size
throughout the winter, plunged to the rim in a bed of
ashes, and now in the cold greenhouse their beautiful
white leaves are pushing forth, and soon the lovely rosy
blossoms will show. Primula capitata, a late summer
Primrose from the Himalayas, should also be sown, more
especially as, in most gardens, it is a biennial only, and
dies after having flowered. The pursuit of gardening
involves a good deal of timely anticipation, but once one
has made a start there is no lapse in the display providing,
as each season comes round, its tasks are carried out.
Lots of other Primulas may be grown from seed sown now,
such, for instance, as japonica, pulverulenta, rosea, sikkim-
ensis and cortusoides. The dainty little Primula Forbesi
is an annual, and by sowing seeds at intervals one
may have plants in bloom for weeks together. The Pinks
are easy from seed, notably, Dianthus caesius, graniticus,
deltoides, arenarius and plumarius; so, too, are many
Campanulas. That lovely evening Primrose, Oenothera
missouriensis, will bloom next summer from seeds sown
in the greenhouse or frame, and one may say the same of
Dianthus arenarius, Antirrhinum glutinosum, Aethion-
739
Round the Year in the Garden
ema coridifolium, Campanula carpatica and pusilla, Alpine
Poppy (Papaver alpinum), Alpine Toadflax (Linaria
alpina), Silene alpestris, Sedum coeruleum, Tunica Saxi-
fraga, Vittadenia triloba, and Viola gracilis. If the
names of some of these are unfamiliar the plants will
prove none the less delightful to those who make their
acquaintance for the first time. The seeds are sown in
well-drained pans filled with sifted, sandy soil, and are
kept moist and shaded until germination. They should
be placed in a greenhouse or frame; if this is slightly
heated the seedlings will show through all the more
quickly.
There are many surprises in store for those who sow
seeds of alpine and border perennials. Some of them may
be expected to germinate within from two to four weeks
in a greenhouse temperature of about 50°, while others
are notoriously slow. Among seeds that I sowed last
March were those of that charming white-flowered Wind-
flower, Anemone sylvestris ; the seedlings failed to appear
during spring, so the seed-pot was left out of doors through-
out summer and winter. During the last week or two
the little plants have sprung up quite thickly, twelve
months after sowing. The seeds of many bulbs, Anem-
one, Primula Auricula, hardy Cyclamen, and others
are often very slow in germinating, especially if the seed
has been stored for some time, and it is thus wise to
obtain freshly-gathered seed of these kinds in summer
and to sow it as soon as received. .No one knows for
how long seed will retain its germinating powers, though
generally speaking fresh seed is undoubtedly to be pre-
ferred. Probably most failures occur through sowing
thickly, covering the seeds too deeply and to indiscrimin-
ate watering. The merest sprinkling of sand or sifted
soil is sufficient for small seeds, and the soil needs to
be kept always moist by spraying daily with a fine
syringe and by covering with glass and paper. As soon
as the seedlings show they should be placed fairly near
140
February—Dawning Spring
the glass and shaded. Moisture should be given only
by immersing the flower-pots or pans in water.
Stocks and Asters.—These are perhaps the most
valuable of all half hardy annuals, and when well grown
few flowers give greater delight or a more abundant har-
vest. Both have been very greatly improved by florists,
and the strains of seed offered by seedsmen give excellent
results. Ten-week Stocks are usually found easier to grow
than Asters; seedlings of the latter damp off in alarming
numbers under unsuitable conditions, while those of
the former are not so fastidious. Thin sowing, careful
watering, timely transplanting of the seedlings, with
discriminate ventilation, are the chief aids to success. In
a damp, close atmosphere the seedlings are more liable
to fail than when, as gardening phraseology has it, the
atmospheric conditions are “sweet and buoyant.”’ The
seedlings should be moistened by immersing the flower-pot
or pan in a bow! of water, not by pouring water among
them through the spout of a watering-can. Some people
dislike Stocks because a proportion of the flowers are
single. It is, I admit, difficult to admire single-flowered
Stocks ; yet if a good strain of seed is obtained, and care
is taken of the small and insignificant seedlings, there is
usually not much to complain of. More often than not it
is the big, sturdy seedlings that produce most of the
single flowers. As double flowers cannot produce seeds,
it follows that these must be saved from single or semi-
double flowers, and for this reason a certain percentage of
single blooms must always be expected when seed of Stock
is sown. Ii find that the seedlings thrive well in an
ordinary greenhouse or in a frame on a hot-bed that has
cooled down somewhat. Thesingle Asters, e.g. the Comet
varieties, are preferred by most people, and they are
undoubtedly delightful as cut flowers.
Some Half Hardy Annuals.—The old white fragrant
Tobacco (Nicotiana affinis) is still as great a favourite as
ever with flower lovers ; its blossoms open in full beauty
14!
Round the Year in the Garden
towards evening and fill the garden with their fragrance.
From seeds sown during February and March an excellent
display may be ensured in late summer. The plants are
quite easy to grow, but should not be put out of doors
until May. One may now obtain varieties in many shades
of colour, and if they are not quite so fragrant as the
white kind they afford welcome change and add gaiety to
the display. Drummond’s Phlox (Phlox Drummondi) may
be considered one of the indispensable half hardy annuals,
and a sowing during Mebruary will provide plants that
will blossom for weeks onwards from July. I tried this
plant one season among the Roses, but it was not a great
success, for the plants became tall and weakly owing to
lack of sufficient light, and, while not blooming very
freely, were rather a nuisance among the Rose shoots.
Those who wish to try something in place of the ubiquit-
ous Viola or Tufted Pansy as a ground covering for the
Rose beds might plant the dwarf bedding Lobelia; it isa
brilliant little blue flower and remains in beauty for a
long time. Everyone will, of course, sow seed of the Sum-
mer Cypress (Kochia scoparia), or Burning Bush, as it is
sometimes called ; this is a most charming plant, closely
resembling a miniature tree; it grows from 2 to 3 feet
high, is of symmetrical form, and the leaves are light
green until late summer, when they become autumn
tinted, brown, red, and bronze. Some gardeners sow the
seed out of doors where the plants are to grow, but I have
always had the best results from sowing in February in the
greenhouse and potting the little plants singly in small
pots for planting out in April. One of the most attractive
August flower-beds I remember to have seen consisted of
plants of the Kochia interplanted with orange-coloured
Montbretia. .
Pruning Roses in the Greenhouse.—The chief prun-
ing of climbing Roses in the greenhouse ought to be
carried out in summer, when the display of bloom is over ;
some of the oldest shoots are then cut back to force the
142
February—Dawning Spring
development of fresh ones. The finest blossoms are borne
on stems that formed the previous summer, though flowers
are also produced by the side growths on the older stems.
It is the latter that need attention now. They may vary
from 10 to 20 inches long, and are shortened little or much
according to their vigour. Such as are almost of the
thickness of a lead pencil may be left 6 or 8 inches long,
but all thin growths are best cut back, to within about
two buds of the base; the fresh shoots that will form as
spring advances may be expected to yield flowers, though
they will not be so fine as those on the strong, fresh stems
that grew last year. Rose Maréchal Niel is, or perhaps it
would be nearer the truth to say that it was, a favourite
Rose for the greenhouse. It is still easily king of Roses,
though few seem to grow it really well. It thrives best as
a half standard. Rather drastic treatment in the way of
pruning appears to give the best results, for its wonderful
golden blossoms are only obtained in perfection and in
quantity from vigorous growths of the previous summer.
To ensure these, severe pruning is practised when the
flowers have faded; all the shoots are cut back to within
a few inches of their base. Then, in a warm and moist
temperature, the tree makes extraordinarily rapid growth,
and before the end of the season will have produced strong
shoots many feet in length, shoots that are certain to
flower abundantly the following summer. It is very
pleasant to have a few Roses in pots in bloom in late
spring, a few weeks before the earliest are expected out
of doors. They should now be pruned and placed in a
temperature of 45°; later on, as growth advances,
they may be given more warmth. Pruning should be
fairly hard, last year’s growths being cut to within two
or three buds of the base.
Annuals for the Greenhouse.—Unless one makes
timely preparation the greenhouse is likely to be some-
what bare of blossom during the summer months; by
sowing seeds now of several charming half hardy annuals
143
Round the Year in the Garden
this disappointment may be avoided. Browallia speciosa
and its variety major are charming blue-flowered plants
for summer blooming in the greenhouse, and are quite
easily grown in pots from seed sown during the next few
weeks. Then the Butterfly Flower (Schizanthus) makes
a brilliant display; the flowers are obtainable in many
showy colours. The Nemesias, especially the orange-
coloured sorts, though quite commonly used for summer
bedding, are well worth growing in pots. Arctotis bre-
viscapa, yellow, and grandis, white, with lovely, big,
Daisy-like blooms, are not often seen in the amateur’s
greenhouse, yet both are easy and give welcome variety.
Among the so-called Everlasting flowers there are several
of especial interest. Of the annual Sea Lavenders the
finest is Statice Suworowi, an attractive plant with hand-
some rose-coloured blooms on tall stems; Statice Bon-
duelli is a yellow-flowered Sea Lavender that will bloom
in summer from seed sown now. The Rhodanthes and
Acrocliniums, or Fairy Immortelles, make very charming
plants for pots, and their flowers and those of the other
Everlastings may be cut and used for indoor decoration.
Helichrysum is another Everlasting suitable for pots, its
large double blooms may be had in many colour shades,
orange, crimson, yellow, etc. Then, of course, one may
grow Mignonette, Asters, Stocks, Zinnias, Forbes’ Prim-
rose (Primula Forbesii), and other common annuals. All
these flowers are attractive and quite easy to grow.
One has only to sow seeds in pots of sandy soil,
in a temperature of 50° or 55°, subsequently trans-
ferring the seedlings to 5-inch pots, and during the
summer grow them in an airy, unheated greenhouse,
Some care is necessary while the plants are in the seed-
ling stage, especially with regard to watering and shading
them, but afterwards they are quite amenable to the care
of the unskilled amateur. The prettiest plant to use as
an edging to the stage in the greenhouse is Helxine
Solieroli, an unpardonable name distinguishing a low,
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February— Dawning Spring
close-growing plant that forms a mass of tiny green foli-
age. It is really hardy—I grow it on the rockery—though
it seems happier under glass. One can obtain charming
specimens if it is planted in the centre of a flower-pot; it
soon reaches the edge and subsequently creeps over the
side, altogether covering the pot with its mantle of green.
Another beautiful little plant of this character, though
additionally attractive owing to its bearing a crop of
orange-red berries, is Nertera depressa; both these are
perennial. Cobaea scandens is a vigorous perennial climber,
though flowering the first year from seed; it is really too
rampant for the small greenhouse, but its large cup-shaped
purplish blossoms are handsome. It may be sown under
glass now for planting out of doors in May.
Greenhouse Climbing Plants.—A suitable selection
of climbing plants adds largely to the charm of the green-
house. Those that form masses of dense foliage should be
avoided, and others might well be trained to the rafters as
much as possible. Thus the amount of shade given by the
climbers will be negligible. If, on the other hand, ever-
green or close-leaved sorts are chosen and trained beneath
the glass, plants in pots on the stage below are bound to
suffer. Generally, greenhouse climbers are more success-
ful when planted in a small border than when grown in
flower-pots, though large tubs or pots answer the same
purpose providing watering is carefully practised. When
the roots are in a border they are not likely to suffer from
drought, as is liable to happen if flower-pots are used.
The Abutilon is an excellent climbing plant; it is true
that the leaves are rather large, but if the shoots are hard
pruned each spring, and the main stem is secured to the
rafter, the plants beneath do not suffer. There are many
beautiful varieties, e.g. Boule de Neige, white; Golden
Fleece, yellow; and Sanglant, red. The plants bloom
throughout a long season, during spring and summer, and
the drooping bell-shaped blossoms come very freely.
Fuchsias, too, make admirable greenhouse climbers; they
K 145
Round the Year in the Garden
also need hard pruning each spring. Both Fuchsias and
Abutilons are long-lived when grown in this way, and
annually produce graceful, pendent, flower-laden shoots.
The exquisite blue-flowered Plumbago capensis is a favour-
ite climber that blossoms most profusely. It is necessary
to shorten the shoots in spring; many amateurs fail to do
this, and their plants consequently become prematurely
weak. Clematis indivisa lobata is a splendid climbing
plant, though perhaps too vigorous for the small green-
house; the slender shoots become wreathed with white,
starry flowers in spring. The Scarlet Trumpet Flower
(Tecoma capensis), Jasminum grandiflorum, yellow, the
blue and white Passion flowers (Passiflora caerulea and
variety Constance Elliot) are other good climbers, while
Heliotrope and Geranium, too, are suitable, more espe-
cially for training against the wall or on a pillar.
The Oleander.—If one may judge by the number
of questions asked with reference to its cultivation, the
Oleander (of which the correct name is Nerium Oleander)
is one of the most popular of half hardy flowers.