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THE

RURAL ECONOMY

OF THE

SOUTHERN COUNTIES;

COMPRIZING

KENT, SURREY, SUSSEX; THE ISLE OF WIGHT;

the CHALK HILLS of

WILTSHIRE, HAMPSHIRE, 8cc:

AND INCLUDING

THE CULTURE AND MANAGEMENT OF

HOPS,

IN THE

DISTRICTS of MAIDSTONE,

CANTERBURY, and FARNHAM.

By Mr. MARSHALL.

IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II.

LONDON:

i'RIN TED FOR G. NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO KIS MAJESTY, PALL-UALtj G. G. AND J. ROBINSON,

paternoster-row; and j. debrett, piccadilly.

1798.

t

ANALYTIC TABLE

OF

CONTENTS

OF THE

SECOND VOLUME.

ISLE OF THANET.

Introductory Remarks, 1. The District described, 2.

Situation, formerly, insular.

Extent, about fifty square Miles, 3.

In Elevation — Upland.

The Surface — tame.

Climature somewhat forward, 4. Notwithstanding its Exposure.

Its Waters — those of the Sea.

Its Soils — calcareous Loams, 5.

Subsoil— Chalk Rubble.

Substructure, probably a Mass of Chalk.

The Roads good and free, 6. VOL. II. a

D. H. HNLL LIBRARY

COITIITIi

Townships numerous. State of Inclosure : — mostlv open. Present Productions — arable Crops. Scenery of the Island — tame, 7. Views from it — most interesting.

Agriculture, 8.

Farms variously sized.

Homestalls mostly in Villages.

Farm Buildings.

Barns of extraordinary appearance. Remarks on Straw as a Covering of Build:

Beasts of Draft — Horses, 10.

Plow Team — four. Implements.

Turnwrest Plow invariably used.

Subplows, in various forms.

A peculiar one, in East Kent, N. 1 1.

Objects of Husbandry, 1 1.

Arable Crops, Sheep, and Swine. The Crops enumerated. No Hops, in the Island.

Course of Practice, 12. No regular Succession ; But a valuable Principle observed. Summer Fallows abound, 13. An Instance of their Utility : And of the Folly of drilling foul Land.

Tillage, 14.

Different Species of Fallows.

Sod burning in good Esteem.

Manures, 14.

Species enumerated. Composts much used.

Semination, 15.

Drilling is in partial Use.

Common, near Margate, and why, 16.

ISLE OF THANET. Hi

General Remarks on the DrillHusd an dr y, 16. Harvesting, 24.

Mowing Wheat in Use. Women employed in Gleaning. Tithe taken in Kind.

Remark on this Impropriety. Method of Shearing mown Corn, 25.

Bands laid down, by Children.

Remark on this judicious Practice.

Wheat, 26.

The Proportional Quantity is great. Very little of it hoed. Practice of Mowing noticed.

Barley, 27.

The Proportion very great. Mostly fallowed for. Mown, as in West Kent. Drawn, and thrashed, for Bands ! 28. This would be eligible, for Oats.

Oats, 28.

Proportional Quantity small. Some drilled and hoed !

Beans, 29.

Proportion very great.

Their Culture exemplary.

Note on the partial Culture of the Bean.

Peas, 29.

A prevalent Crop. And well cultivated, 30.

Turneps, 30.

Prevalent on the upper Grounds. In high Cultivation.

Potatoes, 30.

Not seen, as a Farm Crop !

Canary Seed, 31.

The Proportion very small. Radish and other Garden Seeds, 31. a 2

CONTENTS.

Sainfoin, 31.

The Proportional Quantity remarkably great. The Crops exceedingly good. Its Culture, here, an Object of Inquiry. An (.xrraordinary Incident respecting it, 32.

Survived the Operation of Sodburning !

Practical Remarks, on this Incident, 33.

Lucern, 33.

An ordinary Crop in Husbandry. Cultivated in the broadcast Manner.

Clovers, 34.

Mostly red and yellow.

The latter chiefly cultivated for Sheep- Grassland, 34.

None, on the Body of the Island. That of the Marshes ill managed.

Horses, 34.

Cattle, 35.

A few milk Cows only seen. The Breed mongrel.

Swine, 35.

The Number considerable.

The Breed mongrel.

The Spirit of Breeding still dormant.

Sheep, 35.

Sm-11 folding Flocks common. The Breed that of East Kent.

.ark on this Breed, 36. Folding.

Watered in the Fold. Fatted on Clover and Trefoil, folded off, for Wheat , An eligible Practice.

State of Husbandry, 37.

Its Rank in English Agriculture. Some foul bad Farming. In the Culture of Pulse it excel?. Its Error, in the Com Cuhure. In Livestock, far behind, 38.

ISLE OF THANET.

Improvements suggested, 38. Introductory Remarks.

General Remarks on inclosing the Isle of Thanet. How far Planting is required, 40. On laying out the upper Lands, into Farms, 4.1. Reducing the present Expence of Tillage, 43.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM.

Introductory Remarks, 45.

To the Petworth Quarter. To the Valley of Farnham, 46.

Situation, 47.

Extent — very small— defined.

Soils and Subsoils vary, 49.

Species of Hop, 51.

Planting Hops.

Preparing the Soil.

Disposition and Distance.

Skreens to young Hop Grounds, 52. Culture of grown Hops, 53.

Remarks, on the diiference of Practice, hetweco Farnham and Kent.

Note on introducing Team Labor, 54.

Manure, 55.

Dressing the Roots, in the Spring.

Poles, 56.

Their Species and Price. Method of Piling them.

Poling. Number to a Hill. The Disposition singular The Distance.

M CONTENTS.

The Season of Poling, particularized, 57. The Method of Poling ..escribed, 5S.

T

The Season of Tying.

Remark, on tne Spring Scenery.

■her of Vines to a Pole, 59. The Choice of V.

Remarks or. ect* 60.

The Bands, or Ties, 61.

g up a third I Retying the Icose Vines, 6*.

!fting Poles, 62.

--.tion and Method. Setting up an additional Pole.

Spare Vines, 63.

Remarks on their Treatment.

Becking, 64.

The Beck described, "tendon and 0

Hoing, 66.

la of Hop Grounds. The Hoes how rariously made ! 67.

-rig, 67.

The Season of Picking early, and vt

The Apparatus of Picking, 68. . People very numerous, and :ollected, 69. : Distribution. Cutting the Vines. Method of Picking, 69.

Begin at the Bottom of the Pole I Sorting the Hops, -z. •. most of them, singly. Prices of Picking, -1. -suring. Chiefly, by Estimation !

VALLEY OF TARNHAM. VJi

Keeping Pickers' Accounts, 72.

By Tokens, and Tallies. The finishing Frolick, 73.

Drying, 74.

The Kiln, Fuel, and Coloring. An extraordinary Drying House. A good Construction of the Kiln. Method of" Drying, 75. The use of two Floors.

Packing, 75.

All packed, in stamped Pocket?

Markets, 76.

Chiefly Weyhill !

An Apology for this Practice.

A Regulation of Weyhill Fair.

General Remarks on the Farnham Prac- tice, 77.

Wastes Land, Manure, and Labor, 78. But is profitable to Proprietors and Planters ; Though, perhaps, injurious to the Consumer, and to the Community.

HEATHS OF SURREY, &c.

Means of Information, 81. Situated in four Counties. Extent about ioc,ooo Acres, 82. Elevation various, 83. Surface much diversified. Soil of the worst Kind, 84. Produce chiefly Heath. Livestock inconsiderable, 85.

Vlll CONTENTS.

Cattle — dwarf longhorns.

Their History - -med.N.

The longaorr cd Breed terminate, here. Sheep few in Number, 86.

A Branch of the ancient Breed ? Rabbits not seen, on these Lands ! Fish an ordinary Species of Stock !

The Fish Ponds noticed.

Remarks on increasing them, 87.

The present State of these Lands unprofitable. Means of Improvement, 88.

Propagating the Larch, for Ship Timber.

WEALD OF SUSSEX, kc.

Means of Information, 92. General View of the District. Situation well defined.

The Heaths of East Sussex and Kent noticed, N. 9$. Extent about 200,000 Acres, 93. Elevation low, 94. Surface uniform. Waters singularly circumstanced, 95.

Gives ri-.- to three Rivers. Soils pretty uniform, 96.

The highest Grounds tlSe best.

•arks on the Accumulation of Soils.

Subsoils retentive, q~. il Production, Q~. Shell Stone.

WEALD OF SUSSEX* II

Roads, 98.

A few public Roads are good.

The more private ones very bad.

Ill judged Attempts to improve them.

A judicious Mode of keeping Roads, 99.

Townships large, and why, ico. State cf Inclosure.

The appropriated Lands wholly inclosed.

Bur many open commonable Lands.

Remarks on leaving Woodland Belts, 101. Present Productions, 102.

Chiefly arable Crops !

Yet best suited to Grass.

The Scenery of the Weald, 10^.

Management of Estates, 104.

Property much divided. Tenancy mostly that of Leases. Buildings chiefly Wood. Farmeries old and fortuitous, 105. Corn Barn described. Hay B?.rns prevalent, and useful. Hedges mostly Coppice Belts, 106.

Method of guarding Hedge Banks. Gates of an old Construction, 1:-.

Method of hanging also pristine. Woodlands and Hedgerows, 108. Introductory Remarks.

The Subject arranged, 109. Rise of the present Practice, no. Its Outline, or general Economy, in.

Tim rimate object, 112.

Coppice W->od a Mean to i:.

Timber train? d from Seedling Plants ;

An Grove Timber.

Hence, the Wool Trees are straight Plank Timber.

In the Hcdgen-^s, some Knee; and Crooks, 113.

CONTENTS.

The Method of Training is judicious, 113.

The Yeomanry fern Clubs, tor this Purpose. :. on a Point of Practice in Training, 1 14.

Remarks on the Effects of Societies of this Nature;

And the probable Advantages of public Semi- names, 116.

On Pruning Timber Trees. Wood Timber left untouched. Hed-erow Timber pruned. Remarks on pruning Timber Trees, 117.

General Remarks on the Sussex Practice of training Timber Trees, 118.

N :e on " Seedling Oaks," 119.

On draining Woodlands, 121.

Age of felling Timber, 121.

A: present v.

One Reserve of Timber now making, 122.

Selling and valuing Timber, 122. The Sale is by private Contract. Method of valuing is most accurate, 123. The Measuring Strap described. Marking Hatchet, 124.

Method of taking down Timber, 124. Invariably sawn off, by the Ground.

Remarks on this Practice, 125. Method of Barking, 126.

The B-j-k well managed.

Application of Weald Timber, 127. Converting Timber. Coppices, 128. Species of Woods. Age of Felling — ten Years. Wares of Coppices. Hoops 129. Gunpowder Charcoal.

A new Method of charring Wood, 130. Note on Vegetation, 129.

These Woodlands are chiefly IN Hand, 131. Remarks on the Disposal of Woodhtnd Produce.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. XI

Agriculture, 132.

Farms.

Their Size is of the middle Class. The general Plan mostly good. Their Characteristic arable !

Farmers, 133.

Yeomanry and Tenants.

Many of them poor and spiritless.

But some able to improve the Country.

Workpeople.

Few, for an Arable Country. Not equal to the Work to be done.

Beasts of Draft, 134.

Oxen and Horses nearly equal. Oxen decreasing, and why.

Of the Sussex Breed.

Worked in Yokes, 135.

Age of Work — decreasing, and why. Horses are of the heavy Cart kind. The Road Team.

Four to six Horses.

Six to ten Oxen. The Plow Team.

Three to four Horses.

Four to eight Oxen. Ox Cart drawn by four. Oxen driven with the Goad, 136.

By the Yorkshire Language! The Muzzle in Use, here.

Nets as well as Baskets.

Implements, 136.

Waggons tall and run wide.

Broad wheels in Use.

A Suggestion, respecting very broad-wheeled Ox Waggons. The Plow clumsey, 137. The Plow Sledge primitive.

Remarks on its Uses, as a Roadmaker, 138. The Roller, with a Pole, for Oxen. The Sliding Yoke, ingenious, and useful.

Xll CONTENT S.

Plan of Management, 139. O Crops.

od of cultivating Furze, Note, 143. :e;$ion.

Tillage, 1.::.

The Summer Fallow. How rr.uch depends on the Method of conduct-

7 L

Manures, 142.

Lirr Manure.

Chit - aUL

::om a Distance.

Limekiin on ev.n.' Farm, 1^5.

: Wood. Remarks on I Is.

Modes of app. _: — ery improper, 1^4.

Cattlej :

mber sir The Breed that of 5 :ssex.

Lambs'. 146. Size of Dairies. Dairy Produce. Butter: no Cheeses.

Sheep, 146.

Very few, except on the Comrrc The Breed, probably, the ancient Stock or the C

be of H:. - , 147.

Detailed, from my Journals. Improvements suggested, 152.

Extendi? Carriage.

To Horsham and Dorking.

To G ; 5 .

Lord Egren dec Canal.

Forming: traveiable Roads, 154.

By Und^rdraining the Lanes.

By B-rrelling the Soil.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. Xlll

By making Waggon Paths, 155.

By forming h ru Barrel Roads. Inclosing Commons, 156. A Comm.ssion of Shores, 157. A total Change of the piesent Husbandry. Change the arable Lands to Grass, and the Grassy

Commons to arable. A mode of Leying proposed, 158. On Deepening the thinner So'ls, 162. Converting the thinnest to Woodland. Improvement of the Common Lands, 163.

Convert the worst to Wood :

The best to Arable Lands. An Apology, for these Suggestions.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH.

Means of Information, 165. The District described. Situation defined. Its Elevation, 166. Its Lands particularized. Mostly a light sandy Loam.

Remark on Sand-hill Pebbles, 167. Some Plots of colder Soils. The " Maam " Soil described.

Mostly in a State of Inclosure, 169. Present Productions. Its Claim to Ornament.

Agriculture of the District, 170.

Farms well sized. Farmers, 171.

MV CONTENTS.

Beasts of Draft.

Oxen and Horses.

The Ox Plow-team enormous.

Note on the Petworth Prize Plowinc.

A Two-Ox Swing-Plow bore away the Prize.

Implements, 172.

The Waggon well constructed. The West Sussex Plow described.

The Objects of Husbandry, 173. The Crops in Cultivation. The Succession of Crops, 174. Tillage, below Par.

Remarks on Treading light Lands, with the Plow Horses.

Manures in Use, 175. Two Species of Marl described. Their Analyses ; Note, 176. Proposals for grindinc Chalk Rvbbish, 176.

Lime, 179.

Method of burnikc, with Wood.

Expence of this Method, 183.

Analysis of Duncton Chalks — Note, 183.

Analysis of Petworth Stone — Note, 184.

Opinions respecting Stone and Chalk Limes, 184.

An improved Method of Burning, 185.

Bricks and Tiles burnt, in Lime Kilns, 186.

Wheat, 187.

Instance of Sowing it, after Turneps, without

plowing. Another of Growing it, on very light Land, under

roost rational Management.

Rye Herbage — a common Crop, 188.

Clover prevalent.

Seldom stands more than one Year, and why. An Improvement suggested, 189.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. XV

Sainfoin, 189.

An Instance of its growing, on Sand, which had

been Limed. The Soil and Substrata examined.

Hops not uncommon, here, 191.

The Management that of Farnham.

Orchards partially distributed, 192.

The Apple Bushes of Bury noticed.

An Instance of the Hardiness of the Apple Blossom.

Horses, 193.

An Instance of Spaying.

The Effect. The Tenants of the Petworth Estate have the Use of valuable Stallions, gratis.

The Policy as well as the Liberality of this In- dulgence. Cattle, 194.

Prefatory Remarks.

Lord Montagu's Breed noticed, 195.

Opinions respecting its Origin. Lord Egremont's Improvement.

Its broad Basis, 196. Exhibitions, and Rewards. The Public Shows of Lewes, 197. On rearing Calves.

The Sussex Practice peculiar.

Reared as Lambs, at the Teat. A singular Practice or Weaning Calves, 199.

Allow them no Water, at Grass, and why.

Sheep, 199.

The general Economy is peculiar. The Object is early Lamb. The Breed — that of Dorsetshire. The Place of Purchase — Weyhill, 200. The Time of Lambing is before Christmas. The Food, arable Crops. The Time and Places of Sale. The Price of Lambs, by the Pound, 201. The Disposal of the Ewes. Either give them the Ram ;

XVI CONTENTS.

Or sell them to Middlemen; Who sell them to House-Lamb Farmers. Remarks on this Routine of Practice, 202.

Swine, 203.

Here a Species of Pasture Stock. They nre summered on Marsh Lands.

This Practice described, 204.

Remarks on Swine, as Pasture Stock, 205.

Not'., on Grass Pork. A commendable Practice of Cottagers, 206.

Gather the Cowparsnep for their Hogs. Note on the Cowparsnep, as an Object of Culti- vation.

Deer, 206. Here, a Species of F3rm Stock. Fatted, and sold, as Sheep.

Rabbits, 207.

Not a Species of Farm Stock, in the Southern Counties.

State of Husbandry, 208.

Characterized, by Foulness of Soil. Improvements suggested.

Reclaim the Lands from their Foulness. Some LTnderdraining wanted, 209. By Watering, much, probably, may be done. Granting Leases is the first Step to be taken. Proprietors should set Examples. Motives for withholding Leases considered. Tenants require some Certainty, 211. An Evil of Leases, for a Term certain. A Guard against this Evil, 212. A new Principle of Tenancy, 213. A running Lease from three Years ra three Years : and the Tenant allowed for the Remainder of Improvements. The Advantages of such a Lease, 214. To the Tenant ; To the Proprietor, 215. The Covenants requisite, 216. Ever)- Estate requires a separate CoDt of Re- gulations.

CONTENTS. XVII

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX.

Means of Information, 218.

The District sketched.

Situation described. Extent estimated, 219. Elevation inconsiderable.

Note on the Isle of Selsey. Atmosphere, probably, putrescent, 220. Surface Waters, 221. Soils are deep, rich Loams. Subsoils various. Geological Remarks, 222.

On the Productions of this Passage of Country. On a Phenomenon, now belonging to it, 223.

Its Defence, against the Sea, described.

Partly, by a Natural Fence, 224.

Remarks on the Formation of Beach Banks. In Part, by an artificial Guard, 226.

A Hint towards facilitating this public Work.

Further on the Formation of Beach Banks, N. Tide Mills, 228. How ofren neglected. Method of obtaining them. A Natural Consequence of them, 229. Remarks on the Evils of River Mi lis.

Water Carriage common, 229.

Roads equally commodious.

Townships small, and why, 230.

State of Inclosure.

Mostly inclosed.

A valuable Point of Practice, in conducting the Bu- siness of Inclosures, observed, 231.

YOL. II. b

XVIll CONTENTS.

Present Productions, 231. The surrounding Scenery.

Agriculture, 232.

Farms of a desireable Cast. Farmers of various Degrees, 233. Servants.

The Impropriety of changing, at Michaelmaa.

Beasts of Labor. Wholly Horses.

Implements, 234. Objects of Husbandry. The Crops in Cultivation Tillage well performed.

The usual Plow Teams.

The Soil discriminately laid up, 235.

Manures, 235.

An extraordinary Instance of Neglect, or Want of

Discernment. A Treasure developed, incidentally, 336. Remarks on the Use of Science, in detecting Fos*U

Manures, 237. A further Instance of its great Utility.

Wheat, 238.

The Proportion singularly large.

The Produce equally extraordinary ! 239.

Grasslands, 239.

The Species various.

The Grazing Grounds peculiarly fertile, 240.

The " Slipcs," or Sea Mud-banks, noticed.

Though overflowed every Tide, they do not cause the Rot, in Sheep.

Cattle, 240.

The Number of breeding Cattle, few. The Breed mixed.

Fatting Cattle bought in, and sold at the neigh- bouiing Markets, 241.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. XIX

Sheep, 241. Ewes and early Lambs, as in the Petworth Practice^

Swine, 242. The Breed that of the Southern Counties. Here, a Species of Pastu re Stock ! Remarks on this extraordinary Fact.

State of Husbandry, 243.

The Lands clean, with moderate tillage. Remarks on this Circumstance. The nature of Couch considered.

Improvements, 244. Few to be made in its Husbandry. Its Healthiness, perhaps, improveable, 245. A compleat Drainage proposed. The probable Advantages, 246.

ISLE OF WIGHT.

The Routes of the Survey, detailed, 248.

The Island geographically described, 249.

The Situation generally known.

The Extent 1 10,000 Acres.

The Elevation remarkably great.

The Surface strongly featured, 250 ;

And interesting in the Detail.

A general View of the Surface.

The Back of the Island, 251.

The Eastern Division.

The Heights of St. Catherine, 252.

The broken Grounds of St. Laurence.

A Subject of Geology "and Natural History, 253.

Note on the Association of Objects.

XX CONTESTS.

The Climature forward, : Effects of the Sea .

The Waters, chiefly, two Bro: Soils and Substrata, 256.

Detailed from the Journals of the different Route*.

Inhabitants few, 260.

The Exports of Corn accounted for. The present Inhabitants respectable, 262.

Townships very unequal in Size, 263. The Towns noticed. The Roads travelable, and free, 264- An easy Mode of torming Quartering*.

The State of Inclosure, 265. I e Chalk Hills mostly o: -

) The rest chiefly inclosed.

The Fences mos:'.; H :f6.

Instance of Privet, as a Hedgewood. Also of the E".

Hedges frequently pruned, ; Many cut with the Winds. The ordinary Field Gate is simple.

Present Productions, 167.

Mo?: - reps, and Sheep Down.

T . . V. cod land confined to one Quar:. : : I . . Timber stunted and m.

The Views detailed, 268. The ir.ttrnal Beauties of tbc The

Reflc 1 viewing the .

Its probable Advantage, to - ^

:riculture, 274. :ns characterized.

The Size recc ~e^«

Reflections on aggregating Farrr s, *~ ,- A plurality c: ..-..proper.

ISLE OF WIGHT. XXI

Servants, 276.

Further on changing, at Michaelmas. Beasts of Draft, 276.

Mostly Horses.

The Reason for not working Oxen is ill founded.

The Plow Team unsufferable.

The Road Team five Horses, 277.

Implements, 277. The Plow is that of Wilts and Hants. Refle;tions on the Varieties of Plows. The Waggon that of Wiltshire.

Objects of Husbandry, 278.

Crops in Cultivation.

Marketable Crops. Farm Expenditure.

Sheep Down.

Turneps, 279.

Clovers.

Tare Herbage, and Black Oats.

Sainfoin not in Cultivation ! 280.

The Particulars of Management not detailed, and why.

Cattle, 281.

A Medley of French and English. Remarks on breeding Mule Cattle, 282. The Description of Cattle, in Use. The Dairy Produce, 283.

Remarks on the Wightish Practice, with respect to Cattle.

Sheep, 284.

Two Breeds and Descriptions. Breeding Flocks of Hill Sheep. Early fat Lamb Flocks, 285.

As in the Petvvorth Practice.

Time of Lambing.

Management. Folding much in Use.

State of Husbandry, 285.

Detailed from my journals.

*MI COKTESTS.

Improvements suggested, 290.

An Alteration in the general Economy. An Abridgement of the Plow Team, 291. The C improveable.

In Live Stock, much may b.

sh breed of Cattle, for Tn; Southdown breed of Sheep, for the H

CHALK HILLS

01 THE

SOUTHERN COUNTIES.

Their Outline irregular, 293. : Extent 1 . y great.

-omewhat in Soil. Lie in separate P_

sd into] . _

WESTERN DIVISION

OF

THE CHALK HILLS.

Prefatory- Observations, 295.

:.ve fcr giving this Precede r Means of Information.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. XX1U

A general View of the District, 296.

Situation defined, 297. Extent 1200 to 1500 square Miles. Elevation similar to other Chalk Hills. The Surface described in Detail.

Remarks on artificial Surface, 301.

Note on Sheep, as mountain Animals, 302.

Climature backward, 302.

Surface Waters peculiar to the deeper Vallies, 303.

Soils, 303.

General Remarks, on Chalk-Hill Soils.

A Detail of those of Wiltshire, &c.

Subsoils mostly Chalk, 306.

Substructure wholly Chalk.

Writing Chalk of Sudbury Hill, 307. Analysis of this Chalk.

Townships described, 307.

Roads good, 308.

State of Inclosure, detailed, 308.

Inclosing on the Decline !

Remarks on this Fact, 309.

The State of Appropriation. Many Common Fields.

Present Productions, 310.

Well adapted to Soils and Situations. Ornamental Appearance, 311.

Remarks on Chalk-Hill Scenery.

Views from the Wiltshire Hills, 312.

Management of Estates, 313.

Farm Buildings.

Partake of two Departments.

Barns, on Pillars, common, 314. Remarks on these Barns, 315. Field Fences, 315.

The old Hedges on Mounds.

XXlV CONTESTS.

The Modern Live Pledge.

The Guards of youne Hedges.

Remark on the Beech, as Hedgewood, 316

The Dead Fence of Haxel Rods.

Hedgerow Timber, 316.

Some O-k-, i North Hampshire. Eln-j- \ common.

Remar/v oa Willow Pollards, 317.

Woodlands and Planting, 317.

Sorre Woodlands, in North Hants. Coppice Plantation! wanted.

kcmarks on propagating them, 318.

Agriculture, 318.

Farms.

The Plan :n some Measure given. Perhaps, lay out H;ll Farms, 319. T * Siz.s extre ntly var.< us. The Characteristics cesireable.

Beasts of Labor, 320.

Universally young Horses, trained for the Metro- polis. An Evil of this Practice. The Plow Team tour Horses.

Implements, 320. The Waggon well adapted to the Country. The Plow of a singular Construction, 321.

The Form of its Share noticeable. The " Drag Plow" described, 322.

Markets, 323.

Numerous and good. Plan of Management, 323.

The leading Objects.

Arable Crops, 324.

Course of Practice, with Remarks.

Soil Process, 325. Tillage inconsiderable.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. XXV

Sodburning of long standing, 326.

Its probable Use, in the old Husbandry.

Manures, 327.

The Species, in ordinary Use.

Lime burnt, on the Western Margin.

Extraordinary Form of the Kim !

A Remark on the Lime Furnace. Management of Dung.

Used crude from the Stable !

Remarks on this Practice, 328.

Wheat, 328.

Time of Sowing early. Trodden irith Sheep, 329. The Wheat Ricks noticed. Sainfoin, 329.

The Quantity inconsiderable !

Remark on this Fact. Sheep Downs, 330.

The Propo; tion very large. Mostly Miiden Sward. Their Herbage noticed. Water Meads, 231. Prefatory Re narks.

Nor prepared lor Analysis.

The prob .ble Origin of the present Practice. A Journal detail of it, 332.

The lo.g-grass Mead or Urcheston described.

Further Remarks on the Origin of Flooding 342. The general Economy of Watered Grounds, 344. Sheep, 345.

The Number very great. The Breed.

Its probable Origin.

Its distinguishing Characters. Note on BlacK Sheep, 346.

Objtctions to it, 346.

The South Down Breed contending with it. The Flocks.

Most.y breeding Ewes. Economy of the Ewe Flock sketched, 3 f;.

XXVI CONTENTS.

The Sheep Fold described, 349. A Sheep Rack described. •« Town Fiocks," and their Management, 35*. Cattle, 351.

The Breed longhorned. Kept in common " Town Herds." Custom belonging to them.

State of Husbandry, 351. The Outline judic. The Execurion very unequal. The Lands in general Foul.

Improvements suggested, 352. Clean Tillage.

Binding the Soil with Grasses, not Coach. Breaking up the Sheep Downs considered, 353.

SOUTHERN DIVISION

or

THE CHALK HILLS.

The District described, 355. Situation defined. Extent 200 to 300 square Miles. Elevation that of other Chalk Hills.

Might be e-sily ascertained.

The Surface.

A sii.gle Ridge.

Dissected by V allies.

Gr logical Remarks, on the Formation of the

Earth's present Surface, 356. The Surface of Ekcland instanced, 358. A Geological Map suggested.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. XXVll

Means of Information.

The Soils.

The Substructure Chalk, 360.

The Quarries of Houghton described.

Analysis of Chalks. The Quarries of Duncton, 361. Analysis of " Maam Soil," N. 361.

■ — of " Marl Flour," N. 362.

of the Marl of Deans Wood, N. 363.

of the Sea Coast.

State of Inclosure, 363. Present Productions. The Scenery, 364. Resembles that of other Chalk Hills. An extraordinary Point of View.

Woodlands, 365.

The Extent not great.

The Species chiefly Beech Timber.

A remarkably fine Timber Grove. The Ware mostly Rails, for the Colleries, 366. Remark on the proper Timber Tree, for Chalk Hills.

Agriculture, 366. Prefatory Remark. Farms, 367. Various in Size.

Some very large. Two fine ones noticed, N. 367.

Farmers, 368.

Some of the highest Class. Beasts of Draft, 368. Implements, 368.

Turnwrest Plow prevalent. Plan of Husbandry, 368.

The main Object is Sheep.

A Distinction between this and the Western Division.

1XVJ11 CONTENTS.

Sheep, 369.

The Number exceedingly great. The Object of the Sheep Husbandry. The Breed varies, 370.

The West Down Breed noticed. The South Down Breed described, 371. Uneven, as to Quality, 372. Their propable Origin. Attempts to improve it, 3-4. The proper Principle suggested. An unfortunate Contention noticed, | Further on the Line of Improvement. The Description of Flocks, 376. Chiefly breeding Ewes. A few young Wedders. The Ewe Flock.

The Size about 500.

The Rams ill attended to.

Time of admitting the Rams.

Time of Lambing varies, 3--.

Mostly single Lambs.

The Foods of Ewes and Lambs.

Foldirg them.

Felled on Sward, while young.

An Instance of Superior Practice.

An extraordinary Instance of the Stoutness of

the South Down Sheep, 378. A peculiar Poi;it of Practice noted, 379. Shepherding.

The Ewes rerulsrly trirrrmed. Time of Castrating the Lambs. The Shepherd's Dog, 380. Active and intelligent. His 9 re and Duration short.

The Shepherd's Crook in common Use. Time of Weaning t)*e Lr.mbs. Their Treatment varies :

The Wedckr Lambs, for Sale. The Ewe Lambs, for Stores.

Improvements considered, 380.

Few great ones obvious.

In Tillage, something may be done, 381.

SOUTHERN CHALK. HILLS. XX1K

A Deficiency of Sainfoin.

Reflections on this Circumstance.

A Suggestion on this Subject. Water Meadows impracticable, 382.

Unless in the intersecting Vallies. The Sheep Downs a doubtful Subject, 383.

EASTERN DIVISION

OF

THE CHALK HILLS.

The District described, 385.

The Situation.

The Extent 500 square Miles.

The Elevation pretty uniform, 386.

Highest in the Middle.

Note on the Site of Knockholt Beeches.

The Surface various, 386.

Divided into Compartments. Means of Information, 387. The Climature varies, 388. The Surface Waters few, 389.

Periodical Bourns.

Continual Springs.

Remark on the Water of Chalk Hills, 390. On th-- Depth of the chalky Stratum. On the Origin of Chalk Masses, 391.

The Soils differ from the other Divisions, 39 r. Much strong Clay on the Hills. The Slopes and Skirts chalky Loam, 392.

XXX CONTENTS.

Those of the Southern Steeps vary. te on the Tumwrest Plow.

The Subsoils enumerated, 393.

The Public Roads good.

The Country Roads narrow.

Remarks on " Bell Teams."

The Townships variously laid out, 394.

The State of Inclosure.

The upper strong Lands mostly inclosed. The lower chalky Lands open. Remarks on these Facts.

The present Productions, 395.

A 1-rge Proportion of Wood. The rest chiefly arable Crops. Some little Grass.

-rge Plot of Heathland.

The Appearance, 396.

Interior Scenery.

A View of the Vale of London.

Estates and their Management, 397. Property much divided. :i Buildings. Materials chiefly Wood, Thatch, and Tiles-. Method of laying plain Tiles. Tiles described.

Drinking Pools, 398.

Method of forming, on these Hi. Field Fences, 399. The old Hedges grow on low Mounds. Conjectures on their Origin. Injured by the White Climber. Modern Hedges of Hawthorn, 400. Their extraordinary Treatment. Remarks on this Practice. A mineral Remark on established Prac- i ices, and a Caution requisite in making / tf rVMMtti , - 1

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. XXXl

Woodlands, 401.

The Species.

Timber and Underwood. Also " Shaws," or small Coppices. Their eligibility.

The Wares vary with their Situation, 402.

Hop Poles, in Kent.

Fence Woods and Fuel, near London.

Agriculture, 403.

A General View, of the Practice of these Hills* Farms. The Size most desirable.

Beasts of Draft, 404.

Wholly Horses. Implements, 404. In the East, those of Kent. In the West, those of England. Remarks on the Kentish Practice.

Its probable Origin monastic, 40^ The Limits of the Turnwrest Plow, Further on its good Properties.

Outline of Management, 406. The Objects Corn and Sheep. Marketable Crops. Consumptional Crops. Course of Practice.

Tillage, 407.

On using the Turnwrest Plow.

Remarks on the Stubbornness of the Hill Soils.

A Mean of lessening it proposed. Hints on holding the Turnwrest Plow, 408.

Manures, 409.

Sheeptold the chief Dependence. Yard Manure of a weak Quality. Chalk used, on the stiff Lands.

Perhaps a Cause or" Flints. These Lands a Subject for Geological Inquiry.

XXX11 CONTENTS.

Semination, 409.

Practices in Kent and Surrey are totally different ! Harvesting, 410.

A similar Difference in Practices. Those of Kent and Cornwall more alike !

The Culture of particular Crops.

The Turnep Culture well conducted, 411.

Tares a prevailing Crop.

Different Modes of Consumption.

Sainfoin.

A prevailing Crop.

Grown on the strong Lands.

Its Duration, in Surrey.

Cattle, 411.

The Number inconsiderable. The Breeds various, 412.

The Hills of Surrey are a Boundary, between the long and middlehorned Breeds.

Sheep, 412.

The Description of Flocks. The Breed.

Formerly, wholly Wiltshire.

Now, in Part the South Down. Age of Purchase. Places of Purchase, 413. Economy of the Wedder Flock. Shepherding.

The Size of the Fold.

An alarming Incident related, 414.

Swine, 415.

The Breed— the " Tunbacks." Particulars of Practice, in fatting.

Salting their Food.

Feeding them with dry Flour.

Poultry, 416.

The Dorking Fowls described.

|W g* f>,

V'"

o

V

the

The WESTERN DISTRICTS

OF THE SOiTHERN COIXTIES.

THE ISLE

OF

T H A N E T.

Introductory Remarks.

IN MAKING the excursion in East Kent, mentioned in the Introductory Re- marks to the last District, I appropriated some days, to the examination of this cele- brated Islet ; — every acre of which I pro- bably saw (except a small portion on the northern coast), and passed over the several parts, which distinguish its soils and culture. First, in my way, from Canterbury to Mar- gate; next, in making a circuit, through the Island, and ascending the higher grounds, in different places ; afterwards, in crossing it,

VOL. II. B

D. H. HILL LIBRARY North Carolina State College

DISTRICT.

lo Ramsgate; and, finally, in taking a view of the southeastern margin, and the Marshes, in my way to Sandwich.

These examinations were made, in the beginning of September. The harvest (in a very backward season) being then in its height. I was. therefore, able to form a pretty accurate idea of its soils, and their cultivation ; excepting, so far, as relates to the rniautice of management, in putting in the spring crops.

THE

DISTRICT.

THE SITUATION of this District is peculiar. There can be little doubt of its having been, heretofore, in reality, what it is now denominated ; the sea having, it is more than probable, flowed between it and the main land ; and occupied, at high wa- ter, the space that is now filled, by the

ISLE OF THANET. 3

Marshes, which connect it, on the east and south, with the rising grounds of East Kent.

EXTENT. Considering its oval out- line, as a circle, and estimating its mean diameter at eight miles, it Contains, near fifty square miles of surface, or more than thirty thousand acres.

In ELEVATION, on the north and east sides, it is considerably above the sea; which washes it on these . sides : and some rising grounds, in the interior of the Island, swell above the sea cliffs. Nevertheless, in ap- proaching it, from the west, the rise is so gradual, that its elevation appears much less, than it really is. Seen from the higher grounds of East Kent, it meets the eye, as a broad plain ; or, at most, as (what it may with propriety be called), a- gentle chalk- down swell.

The SURFACE is remarkably smooth, and unvaried ; especially in the central and western parts. The upper grounds shelve gently, as it were, beneath the Marshes ; and rise, with an easy ascent, to the central heights. The eastern parts are more broken and rugged ; but, even there, the quantity

B2

4 DISTRICT.

of surface, too steep or broken, to permit the plow, is inconsiderable : so that almost every acre of its surface may be said to be fit for the purposes of cultivation.

The CLIMATURE, of this small plot of country, is somewhat earlier, than that of the District of Canterbury ; owing, probably, to its lying out of the reach of the influence of the hills, that rise to the south of Canterbury ; whose base is na- turally kept cool, by the moisture which is necessarily lodged beneath it*: an influence, which, from the cases under notice, appears to be greater, than that of the bleakest ex- posure. The Isle of Thanet is exposed, to every wind that blows : and those from the north and east are poured In upon it, im- mediately from the ocean.

The WATERS may be said to be those of the sea. To the south, the river Stower, in its passage from Canterbury to Sandwich, winds through the flat of Marsh lands, on that side of the Islet : the area or body of which is, in a manner, free from surface

• See Yorkshiei, Vol. I. Article Cliuature, •n this subject.

ISLE OF THANET. 5

waters. The entire substructure being, in all probability, absorbent, the rain waters are drank up, where they fall.

The SOILS are, pretty universally, what come under the description of calcareous loams ; and are mostly of extraordinary depth, for soils of that nature. On the lower margins of the swells, and on some of the flatter parts of the area, they are from eighteen inches to two feet deep. Even on the very summits, of the central and western heights, there is ten to fourteen inches of free culturable soil ; and this incumbent on loose calcareous rubble ! Taken together, it forms, by far, the best soiled plot of chalk hill, this Island pos- sesses. On the uppermost stages, of some of the more broken heights, towards the northeastern margin, the soil is thinner, and more flinty. But I know no tract, of equal extent, with so large a proportion of good, and so inconsiderable a share of bad land ; either on the Wolds of Yorkshire, or on the Downs of Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, Hampshire, Sussex, Surrey, or Kent.

The SUBSOIL, as well as the entire substructure, is probably chalk.

6 DISTRICT.

The ROADS, in general, are good; and what renders them more agreeable, to the traveller, they are free.

The TOWNSHIPS are numerous, and well distributed.

STATE OF INCLOSURE. Inthis,as in other respects, the Isle of Thanet re- sembles the Wolds of the northern, or the Chalk Downs of the southern provinces ; and is, m reality, one of the latter. The whole country lies open ; excepting the immediate environs of villages. Those of Birchington, Minster, and St. Laurence have, perhaps, the greatest quantity of in- closed lands. The towns of Margate and Ramsgate may be said to lie open to the Downs. In one or more instances, here, as on the Wiltshire Downs, I observed the remains of neglected hedges !

The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of this favored spot, if we cut oft' the Marsh lands, which are mostly or wholly in a state of grass, may be said to be arable crops. Oi' perennial sheep walk I find no notice, in my Journal, nor do I recollect observing a single instance ; and of woodlands, and hedge timber, nearly the same may be

ISLE OF THANET. 7

said ; except a few masses, or shaws, of the former; and except some hedgerow elms, in the neighbourhoods of St. Laurence and Minster ; on rich deep soils, sheltered from the north.

This nakedness,. conspiring with the na- tural tameness of surface, in giving a simi- larity of SCENERY, the Island, itself, is productive of no other beauty, than what other passages of bare chalky downs afford. But, as a place of view, the Isle of Thanet is capable of gratifying the liberal eye, in a superior manner. — From the southern decli- vities, the rich and beautiful rising grounds of East Kent are seen hanging, as a picture, before it. And the views northward, and to the west, are equally interesting. The Isle of Shepey — the Nore — the coast of Es- sex, with the almost incessant throng of vessels, which in the busy sea roads to the Thames, are seen stealing upon the view, and passing away, as by a charm, into im- measurable space, furnish a broad, but de- lightful prospect. The eastern view is still more striking ; as including, in its offscape, an object that few points of view, in this Island, can command, — the Continent of Europe.

[8]

AGRICULTURE.

FARMS. In traversing the country, several capital farms are seen, detached from the villages ; the buildings large, and the pieces extensive. But too many of the far- meries are gathered together, in villages, or hamlets ; in the manner of other open arable districts. Towards the east end of the Island, the farms appear to be smaller ; and the lands to be frequently intermixed.

FARM BUILDINGS. Dwelling houses are mostly of bricks, or of flints, and covered with tiles. The barns, com- monly, of weatherboard ing, and thatch. On the larger farms, the barns are of extra- ordinary size ; very wide, with a range of hovels or sheds, on either side ; the same roof covering the whole; reaching from the ridge of the barn, to near the ground, as in West Kent. Some of these enormous buildings, when seen end way, or caught in particular points of view, have the appear-

ISLE OF THANET. 9

ance of Egyptian pyramids, rather than of English barns.

Remarks. The excessive consumption of straw, which these immense roots ne- cessarily incur, is doubtless a serious evil, in a country, that is situated, beyond the reach of town manure. If, however, we recollect that the decayed thatch, as it is washed from the roofs, by heavy rains, is much of it deposited in the yards, and, by this means, reaches the dunghill and the field, and that, the old thatch finally follows it through the same path, the actual loss, which the land eventually sustains, is not great. Nevertheless, the temporary with- holding, of an immense quantity of vege- table matter, from the arable lands, is itself an evil ; beside the actual waste of decaved thatch ; which is liable to be carried away, by the currents of heavy rains, and to be blown, by the wind, into places, from which it never returns to the farm. The danger, which thatch roofs are peculiarly exposed to, with respect to fire, is another reason, why thev should be discontinued. And,shouL country continue to prosper, and improve, during the next century, as it has, during

io AGRICULTURE.

the present, it is probable, that, long before its close, the practice of covering farm build- ings, with the materials of manure, will be wholly laid aside; not in this Islet, only, but in every culturable district of the Island at large.

BEASTS OF DRAFT. These are, in- variably, horses ; of a heavy breed ; but not of the heaviest. Some of them arc in n good form, for the farmer's use. Four of these costly, expensive animals are the plow team; — on land which a north-coun- try farmer would plow, with two ; I these, of little more than one third of the. cost and expensiveness of the Thanet team ; would work the lands of the Isle, at than half the expence, that is bestowed upon them, in the present practice.

IMPLEMENTS. The heavy turn- wrest plow is the only one in use ; - on the flattened surfaces, and the gently sloping lands of the Isle of Thanet ; and even in working the fallow grounds, for which this Island well deserves celebrity.

In subplows, "shims" or "broad- shares" — for cleaning the surfaces of pulse grounds — " pea and bean grattans" — for

ISLE OF THANET. n

wheat, or spring crops, this Islet exceeds even West Kent ; especially in the va- riety of construction. One, with a straight edge, four feet long, and of proportional strength, which was hung behind a pair of cart wheels, struck me the most. Surely, land in which such an implement, as this, can be worked, requires not four horses to ploiv it ! *

OBJECTS OF HUSBANDRY. On the body of the Island, arable crops, and sheep, with a due portion of swine, are the leading objects of the Thanet husbandry. In the Marshes, many cattle are seen; but, upon the arable farms, a few cows, teddered

* On the thin chalky soils of East Kent, in the neighbourhood of Barham Downs, I observed instances of subplows, with shares on a construction, different from any I saw, either in the Isle of Thanet, or in the District of Maidstone. Instead of a straight blade, or shim, as in the Island ; or a crescent, or broad share, as in Middle Kent ; a large prong, with three or four broad flat tines (resembling those of the common po- tatoe fork, but perhaps four times as large) is drawn horizontally, with the points forward ; thus making its way among the flints and chalk rubble, which, in a manner, constitute the cultured stratum of these lands, better than a continued edge.

i* AGRICULTURE.

on temporary ley grounds, are the only car tie observable, — in the autumnal season. The arable crops are

Wheat, barley, oats ;

Beans, peas, tares, turneps ;

Sainfoin, lucern, clover, &c.

Canary seed, radish seed, &c* The COURSE OF PRACTICE. No- thing which arose to the eye, in travelling over the arable lands under view, nor any information I gained respecting them, dis- covered what is sometimes called a regular system of husbandry. Indeed, where sain- foin is a common crop, and where a variety of garden crops are grown, there is the less opportunity of adhering rigidly to a fixed routine of crops.

But although there may be no regular succession of crops, in the Thanet hus- bandry, there is a principle of manage- ment, evidently observed, here, which is much wanted, in the central parts of the county ; and, more or less, in almost every district of the kingdom ; namely, that of

* There are no Hors cultivated, in the Island ; though much of its soil appears to be well adapted to their culture.

ISLE OF THANET: 13

clearing the land, for spring corn and ley grasses, rather than for wheat; a prin- ciple which cannot be too frequently, or too strongly urged ; as the superiority of modern husbandry, over the old com- mon field practice, hinges almost wholly upon it.

What struck me most unexpectedly, in examining the Thanet practice, was the quantity of fallows, that everywhere ap- peared. In part, pulse grounds, that had been plowed between the rows, while the crops were growing, and afterwards shim- med, or underplowed,to rid the surface from running weeds, that had got footing in the rows. But many, or most, of them sum- mer fallows.

On expressing my surprise, at so unex- pected a sight, in the Isle of Thanet, I was told, by an intelligent farmer, who was attending to his harvest work, that " land must have a holiday," — and that " it is always better to be a year too soon, " than too late, with your summer tilth •/' supporting his assertion, by shewing me a piece of stubble, the intended crop of which bad been drilled) on land that ought

i4 AGRICULTURE.

to have been fallowed. The consequence was a crop of weeds, rather than of corn : the surface of the ground being carpeted with hog weed ; polygonum aiiculare.

TILLAGE. The summer fallow, horse-hoed pu lse-ckops, and the TL I fallow, are the means whereby many of the lands of the Isle of Thanet are kept in a high state of cultivation. In the autumn of 1795, though the season was backward, the fallows, in general, were beautifully clean. And many of the stubbles, as well as the clover and turnep grounds, showed the soil to be in a state of cleanness and tilth : while some stubbles, and crops then uncut, especially those of wheat, were foul, and the land out of tilth, to a degree, that would disgrace any district.

Sodburning appears to be in much use, and good estimation ; especially on sainfoin leys, previously to their being broken up ; whether for wheat, oats, or other crop. See the Art. Sainfoin.

Remark. This is one of the purposes to which sodburning is peculiarly applicable.

MANURES. The principal extraneous manure, that I perceived to be in common

ISLE OF THANET. 15

use, is sea weed ; but with some sea sand ; and, on the land sides of the Island, what is called " marsh mud" is seen collected, These are mixed up, with dung, and mold ; every thing appearing to be formed into compost : — a practice, which is common to the well cultivated districts of Kent, and has probably been instrumental, in raising the fame of the Kentish husbandry.

SEMINATION. One of my induce- ments, to view the Isle of Thanet, was the celebrity of its drill husbandry. Either through misrepresentation, or misconcep- tion, I expected to have found no other, than drilled crops. The fact however, was, that, for one acre otcorn (wheat, barley, and oats) in rows, three were seen at random. And, of that which stood, or had stood in rows, not one third wore the appearance of having been either drilled, or hoed; the rows appearing to be merely the effects of the grooves, or seed seams, of the stricking plow: (see District of Maidstone, Vol. I. p. 11 8.) with the straggling plants, that had risen from the seeds which happened not to be buried in the seams, still standing in the intervals.

16 AGRICULTURE.

In the immediate neighbourhood of Mar- gate, the crops appeared to have been prin- cipally cultivated in rows, and most of them to have been hoed. There, town manure is plentiful ; and if the farmer can keep the head of his corn above the tops of the weeds, it has to contend with, he ensures a crop, — of straw at least, — by the force of manure : no matter as to the state his stubbles are left in ; or how unfit his land is, to be laid down to herbage, or for the ordinary purposes of husbandry. But such slovenly practice we see, in the neighbourhood of the metropolis, and other great towns : the strength of stable dung being the town far- mers dependence.

GENERAL REMARKS on the DRILL HUSBANDRY.

If it be necessary, or proper, to sow corn, on land that is too foul, to permit the crop to rise, with advantage, by reason of weeds, or the seeds of weeds, in the soil, at the time of sowing, it becomes prudent, to put in the seed in such a manner, as to be able to check the growth of the weeds, without destroying the crop : and, in this point of

ISLE OF THANET. 17

view, the practice of the Margate farmers is preferable to that of the garden-ground men, in the neighbourhood of London. But what farmer, in the country, who has no- thing but his skill and industry to depend upon, would wittingly, and in pursuance of a constant practice, sow (no matter how) clean corn on a bed of weeds ? For who would not as soon mix corn and weeds to- gether, in the seed box, as in the soil ?

If (to use the common language of slo- vens) a soil were so " given to weeds," as to be altogether irreclaimable, a good excuse would be had, for crouding the roots of corn together, in rows, and cropping the ground, partially. But what man would voluntarily mix the seeds of corn crops with those of weeds ? at least, until he had been as anxious to clean his soil, as his seed corn ? Who, seeing a farmer mixing the seeds of thistles, docks, poppies, charlock, and clea- vers, among his seed corn, would not take him for an idiot, or a maniac ? But is it not equally devoid of reason, to mix seed corn, among weed seeds, of the same description ? Yet true it is, that not only driUists, but plain professional men, and even those who

vol. 11. C

18 AGRICULTURE.

rank high in the profession, will winnow, skreen, sift, and perhaps cast, their seed corn, with the greatest anx'.ety, until not a weed seed is discernible ; and immediately throw it over lands, which contain three times, ten times, perhaps an hundred times, the quantity, of the very same seeds, as those they had just been separating, with so much solicitude !

With respect to the advantage of hoing, we have seen, in the culture of hops, that forcing the bine, in the early stages of its growth, has a probably bad erlect ; by throwing the vigor of the soil into stem and foliage, instead of fruit : and, it is pos- sible, a similar erlect may be produced, by stimulating the strtizv of corn, without being able, when every exertion is wanted, to mature the grain, to render it further assistance. It is true, that where there is a great strength of soil, and when, added to this, a favorable season happens, extra- ordinary crops of corn, as well as of hops, are grown, under this treatment : and these incidents, well set forth, give eclat to the practice. But, in soils less powerful, and in seasons less prolific, we have seen the hop

ISLE OF THANET. 19

dwindle, without any apparent cause; and the " loss of crop," which has, probably, terminated the career of the drillist, from the day of Tull, to the present time, cannot perhaps be accounted for, in a more satis- factory manner. (This by the way.)

Beside, one instance has been mentioned, in which hoing the narrow intervals of a corn crop, was unable to prevent the weeds, from gaining full possession of the soil ; and many instances, of a similar nature, were observed, in the Isle of Thanet : so that hoing the narrow intervals of corn crops appears, in the practice of the Isle of Tha- net, to be altogether inadequate, to the cleansing oi foul soils, for future crops.

It is nevertheless true, that, in the Isle of Thanet, I observed several instances, in which the crops were ample, and the soil clean, after the drill and hoe. But in these cases, the land had evidently been fallowed, for the crop : and had it been evenly seeded, and left undisturbed, in the early stages of its growth, the produce would, it is possible, have been still more ample : the saving of seed, and depositing that which is sown, at an equal depth, being, in my mind, the only C 2

M AGRICULTURE.

rational motives, for drilling corn in clean fallowed ground.

Judging from the experience I have had, and the observations I have made, in diffe- rent parts of this Island ; and, particularly, from the attentions I have bestowed, on the semination and growth, of the ordinary crops in English husbandry, I am clearly of opinion, that culmiferous plants, that CORN; namely, wheat, barley, and oats, which bear their fructifications and seeds, on the tops of the stems, should cover the ground: that the soil should be wholly, and evenly, occupied by the crop : that the roots of the plants should grow distinct, from each other ; in order that each of them may enjoy, as much as may be, its separate field of pasturage, — as the roots of grasses, in a meadow, or of trees, in a forest ; and that they ought not to be matted together in rows, and be placed, from their earliest in- fancy, in a state of conflict with each other.

If these positions are right, it follows of course, that the plants of corn should stand in triangles, or regularly aquincunx, as trees in a well planted orchard. And a machine, or implement, to distribute their seeds, in

" ISLE OF THANET. a

that manner, would be a valuable acquisi- tion to agriculture.

Dibbling in the seed, in the Norfolk man- ner, comes the nearest of any established practice, to this desired mode of distribu- tion ; and, for unbroken ground., a better me- thod will not, perhaps, be readily invented.

What is wanted, for broken ground, for barlev most particularly, is a machine rhat will distribute the seed, sufficiently regular, and at an even depth, (as one, two, or three inches, according to the species of grain, the nature of the soil, and the season of sowing,) as the nurseryman sows his tree seeds, and agreeably to the Norfolk practice of two- furrowing ; * so that no seed shall be wasted ; and in order that the whole may vegetate at the same time, and rise in one crop.

On the contrary, PULSE ; namely, the pea and the bean, which throw out their fructifications, laterally, or from the sides of the stems, and down to the ground, if not obstructed, require wide free interspaces; as hops, filberts, and other fruits, -f Hence

* See Norfolk, Min : 43. t See Glocestershire, Vol. I. Sect. 18, for far- ther remarks on this topic.

32 AGRICULTURE.

a practice of Glocestershike, in which peas are " bunched," or planted in tufts, is an evident and effectual way of obtaining the end required ; and, were it right, not only to plant, but to clean peas, by band, this method might, under due regulation, be eligible. But it falls far short of the practice of Kent ; in which peas and beans are cultivated, in rows ; with intervals, wide enough, to admit the plow, or horse- boe : thus rendering them most eligible fallow crops. For the interspaces, which arc requisite to the due fruitfulness of the crop, of beans especially, are converted under this practice, when properly per- formed, into sum ME it fallows, and are not only cleaned, but ventilated, and prepared for a succeeding crop.

Crouding the roots together, in rows, is doubtless an objection to this practice. But the roots of pulse, particularly of beans, arc of a nature the most different, from those of culmifcrous plants : the root of the bean strikes downward, with a strong tap, and throws out a few straight lateral shoots, horizontally, at different depths; does not form a mat of fibers, near the surface, like the gramineous tribe of plants.

ISLE OF THAN'ET. 23

Beside, pulse crops, it is asserted, receive much of their nourishment, from the atmo- sphere ; and this (if true) is another reason for growing them with wide interspaces.

Again, by reason of wide intervals, and by using the plow in cultivating them, the evil effects, mentioned, of hoing the narrow intervals of corn crops, early in the season, are avoided : for if, in plowing, during the infant state of the crop, the soil be turned from the rows, into the middles of the in- tervals, the plants are rather checked, than stimulated, by the operation : and, by re- turning the attempered soil to the rows, previously to the season of blowing, the plants may be said to receive every advan- tage, that reason and art have to give them.

Further, by the stiength and firmness of their roots, beans, though they are crouded in rows, and the intervals be cultivated to near their stems, do not lose their roothold, and fall over, into the intervals, like corn, when cultivated with wide interspaces.

In fine, there is not, perhaps, anv two classes of plants, in nature, less analogous, in their structures and habits, than those of corn and pulse. And to attempt to subject

24 AGRICULTURE.

them to one and the same mode of culture, or to reason, implicitly, and indiscriminately, on the ci.lu.re of the one, from that of the other, can only tend to involve the general subject of cultivation, still more obscurely, than it already is, in the clouds of ignorance and error, under which Agriculture has been too lone gro )ing its way ; and it is more than time that the lights of science and na- tural knowledge, which have rapidly in- creased of late, should be brought to its assistance ; in order to enable the practi- tioner to distinguish the different paths of his profession.

HARVESTING. Several varieties of practice are observable, in this part of Kent ; and will appear in their places. That of mowing a considerable part of the wheat crop, is the most striking.

This practice is some excuse for the many able women, who are seen gleaning, in this thinly inhabited corn country !

Several instances were observed of tithe being taken, in hind !

Remark. How improper to continue this ancient custom (instituted, no doubt, in a sort of necessity) in the present state

ISLE OF THANET. 25

of society ; when a circulating medium is current, and while a spirit ior improve- ments in agriculture prevails ! Very little

more impolitic would it be, to continue to take rent in kind.

The method of sheafing mown corn, here, is similar to that of the District of Maidstone, but not the same. The handle of the rake is more eroded, and the head turned more inward ; the teeth standing almost parallel with the upper part of the handle. In using it, the workman keeps his left foot forwaid; treading upon the middle of the swath ! and his right, close to the buts; so as to assist in regulating them ; working in a stooping posture, and drawing the swath after him, or lifting part after part, with the teeth of the rake, until a sheaf, or rough bundle, is collected. Even wheat, I have seen gathered in this uncouth manner ; with the buts uneven, and fuH of loose ears.

A child attends the workman, with ready- made bands ; giving them to him, singly, as he wants them.

Remark. This is an admirable minutia pf practice. The bands are made at leisure

26 AGRICULTURE.

times, and the child is thus early rendered useful, ar (light a degi ee o'i subordination and attention , without being subjected to labor above his stl ...gth.

WHEAT. A large proportion of wheat is grown, in this Islet; almost every acre of it being adapted, under proper manage- ment, to this grain.

But judging from the crops of 1795 (not a good wheat year), the wheat culture is by much the worst part of the Thanet hus- bandry. In that year, many of the crops were not only thin, but foul in the extreme ; particularly with Mayweed, or corn cam- mom ile. And what appeared most extra- ordinary, the hoing of wheat was less ob- servable, than that of oat$; or of barley, even after fallow ! If any one com crop require hoing, more than another, it surely is wheat ; in as much as it occupies the ground longer than any other.

The practice of mowing wheat has been mentioned. I saw it applied to the thin, ravelled, foul crops, above noticed ; but with the most unworkmanlike effect. For wheat which is clean, and stands tolerably fair, mowing is most eligible; particularly when

ISLE OF THANET. . 27

the straw is short. But it should not only be laid down straight, with the sithe ; but be gathered, neatly, into sheaf, and be set up as reaped corn.

I observed an instance of wheat being set up, in single sheaves (a sort of gaits*) ; bound near the middle; and placed in short rows, of ten sheaves each ; as if for the con- venience of tithing.

BARLEY. A still greater proportion of barley, than of wheat, is grown " in Thanet:" the soil being equally, or still more peculiarly, adapted to this crop.

In 1 79.5, the crops were large and mostly clean ; being chiefly after fallow, or fallow crops; as turneps, beans, peas, 6cc. and generally succeeded by cultivated her- bage : a principle of management, as has been intimated, which, in the present state of society, in England, cannot, perhaps, be exceeded.

Barley appears to be, universally mown into swaths, and laid upon beevors, as in West Kent. The method of binding, or putting it into rough bundles, has been mentioned. And it only remains to notice * See Yorkshire.

cS AGRICULTURE.

a peculiarly, respecting the bands, made use of for barley ; especially when the straw is short. In this case, the plants are drawn up, with the roots ; and the corn and dirt being thrashed off, the straw is made, at leisure times, into bands, to be distributed by children, in the manner above described. The advantages gained, by this practice, are the additional length of band, and the pre- venting of a waste of corn ; in making using the bands ; or by their growing, in wet weather.*

OATS. Many oats were observable. 1795; and the crops mosrlv good. But the proportion was much below that of either of the preceding species.

In one or more instances, I observed the oat crop in rows, with hoed intervals! Surely, a crop, which requires so large a proportion of seed ; which does not spread as wheat or barley ; and which, to ha full return, requires that the stems should

* tor oats, that are too ripe when cut, thrashing the bands would prevent much waste. In the 1 bourhood of Canterbury, I obsened oats bound hops bines.

ISLE OF THANET. 29

nearly touch each other, is ill adapted to the drill husbandry.

BEANS. The proportion grown, in this District, is extraordinarily large; greater, to general appearance, than that of wheat or barley.

In 1795 (a pretty good bean year), the crops were in general good ; and many of them very clean ; cultivated in the very best manner : while others were foul and ill managed : the intervals out of tilth, and the rows unearthed up. Upon the whole, however, the Isle of Thanet stands high in the culture of this crop.

PEAS. This is also a prevailing crop ; but not so prevalent, perhaps, as that of beans.* In 1795, they were mostly har- vested, before I went over the ground ;

* Pulse. The whole line of country, from Ro- chester to the North Forel-nd, abounds with these two crops. In the autumn of 1795, a very considerable portion of the arable land had been occupied by them ; with little, if any, regard to the nature of the soil ! While, between this county and the western extre- mity of the Island, scarcely a bean is cultivated ; let the soil be what it may ! Does this contrariety of ma- nagement arise from an essential difference, in soil or

3o AGRICULTURE.

though some still remained in the field ; in reaps or bundles.

The ground was in general clean : and the rows, in most cases, had the appearance of having been earthed up. But, in ge- neral, the subplow was at work ; or had, alreadv. passed beneath them.

In the culture of peas and beans, as fallow cRors,the practice of Kent, I must here repeat, may properly be recommended, as a pattern.

TURN EPS. These appear to be most prevalent on the upper grounds ; where extensive plots are seen ; and mostly in a high state of culture. In 1795, the whole were broadcast. I did not, at least, observe any in rows. The crops were in general clean and good.

POTATOES. I did not perceive, even a single plot, of any extent, in the Island ! A few patches, about villages, and here and there a head land, were all that ap- peared, at a season when even a small plot could not easily be passed unseen.

climature ; or from situation with respect to markets t or is it merely the effect of custom; originating i. lidtnt, and persevered in without reflect:.

ISLE OF THANET. 31

In the quantity of CANARY SEED,

grown in the Isle, I was still more disap- pointed. In traversing it, as above described, there did not twenty acres, of this species of produce, fall under the eye. There is, however, I understand, a sufficient quantity grown in the eastern parts of this county,* to supply the markets, domestic and foreign : its culture, therefore, is not an object of ge- neral attention. It may be arranged among garden, rather than farm produce.

Of RADISH SEED numerous small plots were observed ; especially in the eastern parts of the Island ; where those and other garden seeds are raised, for the London seedsmen.

SAINFOIN. No other part of this kingdom, of equal extent, has so many acres of good sainfoin to show, as the little Island under view. Indeed, every part of it, even the higher swells, appear to be singularly adapted to this valuable species of herbage. There is no part of the Thanet hus- bandry, whose minutiae I should enter into, with greater solicitude, than that which re-

* In the neighbourhood of Sandwich, I observed several pieces of considerable extent.

3* AGRICULTURE.

lates to sainfoin : for although much, doubt- less, is derived from the soil and substrata, the prevailing excellency, that almost every- where appears, is in part, perhaps, owing to principles of Management : no other spe- cies of cultivated herbage requiring so de- licate a treatment.

In the first week of September, horses and cows were seen teddered, on the after crop of sainfoin leys; but no instance of ge- neral feedage had then taken place.

The only interesting fact I caught, re- specting this crop, arose from a piece of old sainfoin ley, that had been pared and burnt, as a preparation for wheat ; the ashes being, at the time I saw it, standing in heaps ; which were partially hid, by a luxuriant crop of sainfoin ; notwithstanding the operation !

The plants appeared to be sufficiently numerous, to stand on, for a crop ; and its owner seemed to have no other objection, to giving it a trial, than the probable de- ficiency, that he conceived would accrue, from the hillsteads ; which, he took for granted, were " killed."

ISLE OF THANET. 33

Remark. This is not only a most eli- gible way of breaking up an old worn out sainfoin ley, (and is, as has been said, the pre- vailing practice) but appears to be an ad- mirable expedient, for cleaning one, that is foul with surface weeds ; and of giving it, perhaps, fresh vigor, by means of the ashes. Judging from the incident under notice, there is little danger to be apprehended, from such an expedient. The plants were luxuriant, even to grossness, and beautifully clean ! If the sainfoin should not be suffi- ciently relieved by the operation, the soil would be in a fit state, to receive any other crop.

LUCERN may be said to be, here,

AN ORDINARY CROP IN HUSBANDRY. Upon

the open Downs, it appears to be univer- sally grown, in the broadcast manner ; as sainfoin and clover; agreeablv to what may be called the Kentish practice.* I observed only one piece, in rows. This was a pretty large inclosure, on the eastern coast ; and, in the middle of it was a mound of earth, inhabited by rabbits !

•See the District of Maidstone, Vol. {. p. 152. VOL. II. D

3+ AGRICULTURE.

The other species of CULTIVATED HERBAGE, observable in this Islet, are red clover and trefoil. Of the WHITE clover, or of raygrass, I saw very little, if any. Indeed, in an open arable country, where little livestock is kept, and where the temporary ley is chiefly intended to stand only one year, red clover, alone, or, when intended for sheep, with a mix- ture of trefoil, is perhaps the most eligible. And many clean full crops, of these valuable plants, were observable.

GRASS LAND. On the body of the Isle, I saw no instance of old grass land, or natural herbage. The Marshes are chiefly in this state. But judging of them, from what I saw, in crossing them to Sarre, and in going from Ramsgate to Sandwich, they do not appear to be under any very accuse plan of management. In the latter part, indeed, they may well be said to lie in a shameful state of neglect ; and to call loudly for improvement.

HORSES. I observed none, but heavy, team horses,— either at work, or teddered on the ley grounds.

ISLE OF THANET. 35

CATTLE. Upon the Island, a few milking cows, teddered on the leys, and sel- dom more than two or three together, were the only cattle. The breeds chiefly mon- grel ; with some Welch. In the Marshes, the same motley collection was observable. In a country where arable crops are the principal object, livestock are generally seen in a state of neglect and degeneracy.

SWINE. Many herds were seen, tended on stubble grounds. The colors, and breeds, various, and mixed. Mostly thin-carcassed, ill bred creatures. This is the more remark- able, as the number kept is considerable, swine being a requisite species of stock, in an arable country. But it only shows that the spirit of breeding has not yet reached the Isle of Thanet. i

SHEEP. Several small folding flocks, of a hundred or more each, were observed, on the upper swells. Mostly two-shear wedders, of a poled breed, and middle size ; but variously faced ; as if they were a cross, between the Romney Marsh and the South Down breeds : or rather the Marsh breed of Kent, slightly mixed with the South D2

36 AGRICULTURE.

Down ; and diminished in size, by upland pasturage, and folding. Their faces mostly white, but some of them grey.

Remark. These appearances, however, only serve to show, with additional strength of evidence, the origin of the Kent breed : which has doubtless sprung from the same source, as that of the South Downs. See Romney Marsh, page 378, of the last Volume: also the Southern Division of the Chalk Hills, in this Volume.

The wf.ddlr flocks, which I saw in the Isle of Thanet, were probably bred in the Isle of Shepey, or other part of East Kent ; not in Romney Marsh ; they being of a

smaller frame, and more colored, than the

breed of the latter district.

On the hills, to the north of Canterbury,

I observed a Mock of a still smaller size ;

yet apparently of the same breed.

Folding. I remarked an instance, in

which a barrel cart was employed, to carry

water to the fold i where it was given to

the flock, in narrow wooden troughs. The folds were chiefly on clover and

trefoil leys : which were folded off, as tur-

ISLE OF THANET. 37

neps, or tares. Trefoil is a favorite food of sheep ; and sowing it with barley, to be folded off for wheat, on wheat land, in an open country, and in situations where the dung cart has difficulty of access, is evi- dently good management.

STATE OF HUSBANDRY. From this view of the Thanet practice, we may safely rank it, among the best cultivated districts of the Island. But this is as much as can be truly said of it. It has no claim to that exclusive right of superiority, which cele- brity has given it ; and which it may, here- tofore, have deserved. The quantity and quality of its crops are to be ascribed, prin- cipally, to the natural advantages of soil and manure, which the Isle of Thanet enjoys.

That the natural advantages of situation are seen, and well attended to, by men of spirit and judgment, here, as in many other parts of the Island, is evident. But, even in a cursory view, much foul bad farming is observable.

In the management of pulse, as a fal- low crop, the Isle of Thanet farmers may claim great merit ; and, perhaps, in their having, unfortunately, generalized the

38 AGRICULTURE.

idea of the row culture ; extending it to corn crops ; and placing the same kind of dependance, on hoed wheat and barley, as on hoed beans and peas, for cleaning their lands! — may be found the source of the foul bad husbandry, which is seen.

With respect to livestock, whether as to quantity or quality, the Isle of Thanet appears, in a general view of these king- doms, at a distance, in the back ground of modern husbandry.

IMPROVEMENTS. In any one, who has not a general knowledge, of the seve- ral departments and branches of the rural science, and of the different practices, which time and circumstances have established, in these kingdoms, it might be rashness to propose alterations, in the established prac- tice, of any district, without better informa- tion, than a few days inspection could afford. But the Isle of Thanet being the last, of the more celebrated districts of ibis kin^r- dom, that I have examined, — or, to speak with somewhat greater latitude, having seen every thing that is right and wrong, in the several established practices of the Island, at large — I feel myself the less em-

ISLE OF THANET. 39

barrassed, in suggesting the few improve- ments that occurred to me, in my cursory survey of the Isle of Thanet.

The inclosure of the open lands, of which the body of the Isle may be said to consist, is probably the first improvement, that strikes those who turn their thoughts to the subject.

The propriety of inclosing Chalky Downs, in general, will be considered, in speaking of the West Division of the Chalk Hills, in this Volume. But the thin soiled, wide spreading Downs of Wiltshire and Hamp- shire, the principal part of which is best adapted to sheep walk, are very differently circumstanced, from the fertile plot of coun- try, now under notice ; every part of which is in a state of aration ; and every acre fit for an alternacy of grain crops, and tem- porary herbage ; and, consequently, capable of supporting livestock in great numbers, and of every description.

Were the Isle of Thanet properly in- closed, and put under the course of modern husbandry, in which grain and herbage, cattle and sheep are made subservient to each other ; agreeably to the practices of the

4o AGRICULTURE.

Midlan 1 Counties, and various other parts of the kingdom ; and the different breeds of livestock, properly chosen, and duly attend- ed to, there can be little doubt of the aggre- gate value, of its marketable produce, being rendered much greater than it is at present.

But so long as it remains under t lie pre- sent plan of management — so long as it is considered, merely, as a matrix of grain, it might be wrong to inclose it. The cele- brity ol the Thanet seed corn, — (parti- cularlv of its barley, — ) and the fairness of its samples, whether as to body or color, — may not be wholly owing, to the soundness and fertility of its lands, but, in some con- siderable part, to an openness of the coun- : which not only promotes a plumpness of grain, but preserves, during harvest, the brightness of its color. And it remains with the proprietors of this favored spot, to de- termine, whether fame or profit is more estimable.

The extreme nakedness of this plot of country aptly suggests the improvement of <sg. But the lands, in general, are much too valuable, for the purposes of hus- bandry, to be converted to a state of wc ..-

ISLE OF THANET. 41

land. Nevertheless, there are particular spots, as the steeper hangs of the hillocks, towards the eastern coast, and the worst of the flinty heights, which, if plants were pro- perly chosen, and set thick enough, might, notwithstanding the bleakness of the ex- posure, be raised to the growth of coppice wood ; and be at once useful, as such, and give a degree of shelter, which, even under the present plan of management, is wanted, in these bleak, exposed situations. But the most obvious and valuable improve- ment, which presents itself, relates to the lay ing out of farms. At present, though there are some capital farms* properly placed, in the areas of the lands that belong to them, farm houses, and yards are, more common- ly, crouded together : mostly, on the out- skirts of the Island, and on the lowest sides of the arable lands ; and this, while there are numberless situations, on the midway of the rising grounds, where farmeries might be erected, with valuable effect. A want of water can no longer be brought, as an ob- jection, to placing farm buildings in upland situations ; even where wells cannot be sunk with propriety. By means of cisterns, tanks,

42 AGRICULTURE.

or water cellars, the rains, which fall on the roofs of a farm house and offices, are found to be abundantly sufficient for every domestic purpose.* And. by means of pools, properly placed; and properly forme J. wa- ter, for every 'purpose of stock, may, in a common season* be secured. -\- Nor can a want of shelter be a good objection, against distributing farm buildings, over the farm lands of the Isle of Thanet, or any other district, under similar circumstances. If sites were chosen, in those dips or hollows, which generally are to be found, in the midway stages of uplands ; and if, when the foun- dations of the buildings were laid, skreen plantations were judiciously placed, such situations would not only soon become more convenient, and profitable, but more pleasant and wholesome, than low damp grounds ; liable, perhaps, to the pernicious effects of the putrid air of marshes.

With respect to the quantity of improve- ment, to be expected, by these means, there will be little risque in saying, that, by placing farm buildings, within the areas of the lands

• See Yorkshire, Vol. I. sect. Farm Buildings. t See the same, Section Drinking Pools.

ISLE OF THANET. 43

that lie to them, and by inclosing, and skreening such lands and buildings, many of the upper grounds of the Isle of Thanet would be rendered nearly twice as valuable, to a farmer who knows how to profit by- such advantages, as they are, in their present state.

The most obvious, and perhaps the only great improvement, to be made, in the Tha- net plan of husbandry, as it is now conducted, relates to its tillage. To continue to plow free soils, even in a state of broken ground, with four horses, and with an implement altogether improper to be worked in broken ground, is a crime, which it would be cri- minal to let pass, uncensured.

I know not what rent the Thanet far- mers pay for their lands (not having a suffi- cient opportunity of ascertaining it); but I well know, from a length of experience, on different soils, and in different and distant parts of the Island, that, by an obvious im- provement, in their present mode of tillage, they might afford to pay, from five to ten shillings an acre, more, than they can at present.*

* See the District of Maidstone, page 6c, for the merits and demerits of the turn\rr£st plow-

44 AGRICULTURE, &c.

By conquering this prejudice (which I perceived to be deeply rooted, or I should not censure it, in the terms, I have here deemed appropriate) and by discarding the notion of keeping lands, in a proper state of cleanness and tillage, by hoing the narrow intervals of corn crops, the husbandmen of the Isle of Thanet might well be celebrated, as the first arable farmers in the kingdom.

THE

VALLEY

OF

F A R N H A M.

Introductory Remarks.

ANY ONE, who had been long striving with a difficult work, that too a public work, and with the knowledge of numbers, who were capable of forwarding his design, yet without furnishing the least assistance, would naturally feel superior gratification, when at length he found a man, to whom no court had been offered, nor any interest made, and this man of the first rank, and highest cha- racter, coming forward and offering his as- sistance.

46 HOPS.

Such has been the liberal conduct of the Earl of Eg r em on t, towards the work I am executing.

In March, 1 791 , by an invitation as pleas- ing as it was unexpected, I had the honor of paying my first visit, at Petworth ; where I spent the spring months, and part of the summer and autumn, of that year.

From this central situation, I made ex- cursions to the surrounding districts : to the South Downs and the Sea coast of Sussex ; to the Valley ofFarnham, the Heaths of Surrey and Hampshire, and the Weald of Sussex.

Since that time, I have been repeatedly indulged with opportunities of renewing my observations, in that quarter of the Island. And if the facts, there collected, should prove in any way useful to the public, or interesting lo the promoters of rural know- ledge, to the Public Spirit of the Earl of Egremont they will be indebted for them.

IN Till-: SPRING, and the early part of the summer, of 17^1, I made repeated excursions, to this District ; with a view to examine the culture of the hops, for which

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 47

it has been long celebrated. I was the more anxious to see the spring manage- ment, here, as it was the only part of the hop culture, that I had not made myself fully acquainted with, in the District of Maidstone. I therefore took three dis- tinct views of the Farnham culture: namely, in the early part of April, the early part of May, and the beginning of June. And, in September, I made this District in my way, from Devonshire to Sussex, to attend the picking.

The SITUATION of this Valley is on the northeastern margin of the Hampshire Downs ; which, in this quarter, divide into points, or depressed ridges, that shoot into the low vale lands, by which they are bounded. Basingstoke is seated on one of these points ; Odiam, at the foot of anor her ; and a third forms the northwest side of the Valley of Farnham.

The EXTENT is small. The hop grounds are confined, principally, to the parishes uf Farnham, Wracklesham, and Bentlly; but spreads into those oi Trayl, Holy burn, Alton, &c. &c. In descending the Valley of Tistead, from Petersfield to

*8 HOPS.

Farnham, hop grounds are first seen, a few miles above Alton. About that town, there are manv plantations ; also about Bentlev ; and there are likewise many plots, scattered, on both s'des of the Valley* down to Farn- ham ; which is situated at its lower extre- mity. But the Farnham plantations lie, more particularly, on the northwest side of the Valley ; on the chalky lands : the gra- velly soils of Holt Forest pressing down, on the opposite side, to near the base of the Valley.

The hop culture, therefore, extends, in length, from ten to twelve miles. But its width, even on the north side, of the Valley, at Farnham, is only a few hundred yards (a quarter of a mile at most) ; climbing up the side of the Valley, no farther, except in small plots, than where the chalk lies near enough the surface, to give the requisite absorbency and fertility to the soil ; which, higher on the slope, becomes a cold reten- tive infertile clay; resembling, in appear- ance, and product ions, the southeastern quar- ter of the District of Maidstone. And, above this, on the top of the ridge, is a barren heath.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 49

On the south side of the Valley, opposite to Farnham, in the parish of Wracklesham, the hop grounds are scattered, among arable and grass lands, the base of the soil being, on that side, a flinty gravel, on sand ; while the chalky lands of Farnham, are wholly hop grounds, and some of them old, beyond memory.

SOIL. This is a further evidence, that hops are partial to a calcareous base.* For although they are grown, and on some particular spots endure, on the southern hang of the Valley, there is every reason to believe, that the lands they flourish on, are in some degree calcareous- The gravelly subsoil is flinty ; and probably of calcareous origin ; and what corroborates this idea, sainfoin flourishes on the same lands. We may therefore conclude, that it is either na- turally calcareous, or has been chalked. On the north side, some of the soil is mixed with flinty gravel, similar to that of the south side ; which, probably, has a like mixture of calcareous matter : the two sides being separated only by a narrow flat of meadows.

* See Districts of Maidstone and Canter-

'BURY.

VOL. II. E

So HOPS.

The prevailing topsoil, on both sides of the Valley, is the same : a rich strong loam : resembling the coomb of West Kent. The undlrsoil, on one side, is chalk or chalky rubble, on the other, flintv gravel, in some places of great depth: the substructure, of the one, is calcareous strata, of varied composition ; of the other, sand rock : a a substratum common to the sandy wastes of Hampshire and Sussex.

But hops, here, as in the neighbourhood of Maidstone, are grown on soils of diffe- rent qualities : in the upper parts of the Valley, the ordinary top soil is a much lighter loam, than prevails about Farnham ; and, at the lower extremity, they arc tended over the margin of the sandy wastes ; on lands not worth, for any purpose of hus- bandrv, five shillings an acre. This, how- ever, is merely in pursuance of an established practice, — is only falling in with the fashion of the place, — and probably does not repay the contingent expences.

In the neighbourhood of Odiam, I ob- served some flourishing plantations of hops; and wherever there is a rich deep loam, on a loose calcareous base — wherever sainfoin is observed to flourish and endure, there it i*

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 51

more than probable, hops may be planted with safety and profit.

SPECIES. There is, I believe, only one varietv in cultivation, here; which is known by the name of the Farnham hop.

PLANTING. In 1791, the plantations of Farnham were increasing ; the passion for hop grounds having, then, risen to a degree of rage.

The preparation of the soil, until late- ly, I understand, has been that of ?' trench- ing," or double digging. Now, pits are grow- ing into use! owing, I was informed, to a mere incident of practice, in which they happened to succeed ; and, being less ex- pensive than double digging the entire soil, this incident may possibly give a turn to the practice ; — whether a good or a bad one, a few years experience will probably show.

In the disposition and distance of the hills, the practice appears to have varied, and to be still varying. In the very old grounds, in the immediate environs of Farn- ham, whose origin, I understood, is not now to be traced, the hills stand irregu- larly; not in straight lines! In grounds

Ea

52 HOPS.

of a middle age, they are in rows, with wide intervals, one way (as seven or eight feet) and with the hills, three and a half to four feet apart, in the rows. In one instance, I observed them, nine feet by three. At pre- sent, six feet, square, appears to be the prevailing distance.

The skreens of hop grounds, here, as in Kent, are trained thorn hedges ; where the lands are inclosed. In a few instances, I observed lime trees planted, in close rows, and trained for this purpose.

But. the grounds of Farnham are in a state of open " field" — having doubtless been a common corn field ; the pieces being distinguished by narrow lines of grass.

However, in 1791, several young hedges were training; for the intention of " break- ing off the blights;" which are understood to come in the form of mist, or riving clouds, scudding over the surface of the ground ; and, it is thought, that tall skreens assist in checking their career, or in breaking their force ; so as to lessen, at least, their mis- chiefs, as far as the shelter of the skreen nds.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 53

CULTURE OF GROWN HOPS. The

outline, with respect to the soil, is this: manure, in autumn : dig the intervals, a full depth, in winter: open the hills, and hoe the intervals, early in the spring : break them up, a few inches deep (in the manner that will be described) about the beginning of June: round up the hills, at Midsummer: and give the whole a superficial hoing, be- fore corn harvest sets in.

Remark. It may here be observed, and is an interesting fact, in the history of the hop culture in this Island, that the practice of Farnham, and that of Maidstone, are, in many respects, so very different, as to leave no doubt, on the mind, of their having had different origins; or of each having groped out its own way ; the central parts of Sussex forming the division between the two practices. In West Sussex, about Pet- worth, where hops are in cultivation, the Farnham practice prevails : while, on the eastern side of the county, about Cranbrook, the practice of Maidstone is followed.

In the western practice, now under view, there are no implements in use; no shims, subplows, or harrows, drawn by horses ;

54 HOPS.

the whole being performed by manual la- bour ;* and, in performing this, many of the tools, in use, are so perfectly different, in shape and operation, as to show them, de- monstniblv, to have been separate inven- tions. The soils, — if we take the coomb of Maidstone, and the strong loam of Farn- ham field, — on which, it is more than pro- bable, the two practices were first intro- duced,— are very similar. Perhaps, that of Farnham is somewhat more stubborn ; and the tools, there in use, are best calculated for such a soil. But they also are used, on the lighter lands. There is scarcely any trace of the two districts having copied from each other ; except, in digging the inter- nals, with three pronged forks, instead of spades ; a practice which is common to both.

* I was told, that team labor has been tried ; but that " it would not do." It may therefore be admitted, that cither the soils of this district, or their cultivators, are of too stubborn a nature to admit of the practice : perhaps, the former.. It, however, the intervals, or " allies," were to be laid up, in dry beds, before win- ter, there can be little doubt of their being, thereby, rendered mellow enough, to be worked with team im- plements, the ensuing spring and summer.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 55

The MANURE of this District is dung ; which is purchased, at an extravagant price, — " a guinea a load" ! fetching it out of the country, on every side, where it is to be procured : thus impoverishing the whole neighbourhood. Woolai rags are not much in use, here, as in Kent ; but xvool (the dirty locks, or trimming, &c. of sheep) is used. These differences of practice arise out of situation : woolen rags are conveyed to Maidstone, by water, at an easy expence ; and wool locks are the produce of the Downs, in the immediate neighbourhood of Farnham.

In DRESSING, (namely, opening the hills and cutting off the old vines), the only variation, which appeared, was that of the crowns of the roots being more ge- nerally left bare, in the Farnham, than in the Kentish practice ; under the idea — as I was told by an intelligent hop-ground man — that " the sun draws them out the better," when they are exposed, than when they are covered with mold. This, however, may be a mere popular idea. The fact is probably of more importance, than the reason given for the practice.

56 HOPS.

POLES, here, are chiefly of ash ; (but some of alder, sallow, and fir!) culled from the neighbouring woods, and plantations. The price, in 1791, was about a guinea and a half, a hundred, in the wood.

A method of piling the poles, in winter, differs from that of Kent ; though part of them are set up, in the Kentish manner. In the Farnham practice, they are laid along the ground, horizontally; and formed into triangular piles. To preserve the form of the pile, and prevent them from rolling down, four poles are entered into the ground ; namely, two near each end of the pile. These cross each other, at the upper angle of the pile ; and are kept in their places, firmly against the sides of the piles, by a fifth pole, thrown in between them. They are less trouble, and less dangerous, than the conical piles of Kent ; but seem to be much less calculated to preserve the poles.

In POLING, there is a notable variation from the practice of Kent. The number in ordinary cases, is tzco poles to a hill :* and these are disposed, in a peculiar

* But see the operations of tying, and shifting poles.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 57

manner : especially where the hills are in thickset rows, with wide intervals. In this case, the disposition is changed, alternately, in the rows. The poles of o.ie hill is set in the line of the row, and of the next across it ; the poles, in the latter case, standing about eight inches from the line, and one on either side of it : the ordinary distance between the poles being fifteen to eighteen inches, at the bottom : spreading to three or four feet, at the top ; the back of the pole being usually placed inward, as in Kent.

The time of poling depends on the emersion or shooting of the vines. In 1791, the pointing, and distrib.aing of the poles in the intervals, the first by men, the latter by women and boys, were going on, in the first week of April , the young shoots, at that time, just beginning to make their appearance. On the 8th of April, some few poles were setting up, on the south side of the Valley, which is somewhat forwarder than the north side ; notwithstanding the aspect ; gravel, perhaps, being a more ab- sorbent, warmer subsoil, than chalk. On the tenth of May the poles were mostly

58 HOPS.

up; but not wholly: the majority of the plants, then being two or three feet high ; sji; igher.

le method of poling is this : a hole being sunk, of a size, and in a direr suitable to the foot of the given pole, and about twelve inches below the crown of the root (or fifteen below the level of the in- tervals) with an iron crow, or bar, and the workman having adjusted the pole, in his hands, so as to make the top spread pro- perly outward, it is punched down, with a single effort. If it do not stand in the true position (a circumstance which seldom hap- s ro an e workman) it is forced, by

hand, until its top be brought into its pro- situation ; when the ground is trodden hard to . heel. But alter-

i deprives a pole of ..nd ought to be avoid- ed, as mui .le.

ing. In 1791, th mmenoed,

about the beginning of May.

The ninth of might be

h women and girls, at this

work : .:en employed in

^ening poles, poling, and hoing or

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 59

" becking" the intervals, formed a busy in- teresting scene. While the country, viewed from a distance, had a striking appearance: the whole Valley wearing, at that season, the winterly garb of naked leafless coppice grounds.

The number of vines, that are usually trained to a pole, in the Farnham practice, are three. Hence, at six feet square, or twelve hundred hills to the acre, and two poles to each hill, the usual number of vines, to an acre, are seven thousand two hundred : so that, notwithstanding the hills are placed at shorter distances, here, than in the District of Maidstone, the num- ber of vines, trained, are much fewer. In the plantations of a middle age, in which eight feet, by three fte^ and a half, are the common distances, or about fifteen hundred and fifty, to the acre, the numbers are nearly the same, as in West Kent ; namely, nine to ten thousand vines, to the acre.

In the choice of vines, to be trained, much may depend. In the early part of the season, the strongest and cleanest vines are made choice of. But later, when the

6o HOPS.

vines have run away from the tyers, the forward "branchy" vines, as well as those that are slender and weak, are rejected, fur those which are clean and of a middle growth; namely, about two feet long.

Remark. The reason seems obvious: the strong branchy vines are difficult to train ; and, have probably acquired a pro- cumbent habit ; their natural tendency to climbing being checked, by not having it ex- ercised in the first instance: and the lateral brandies weaken, of course, the strength of the leader. Had these forward vines been ;ed to the poles, at a proper age, the branches, if sent out at all, would doubtless have been, in to the leader, com-

pafativi ak.

. in which there are two vines, of equal growth and strength, and of a pro- per age for training, it may be a moot point, which to choose. If strong, rather than tall vines, are the best able to withstand the ks of enemies, and bear a crop with t certainty, that which is inclined to Lit side shoots, and thereby strength- en the lower part of the stem, becomes the

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 61

proper object of choice. A medium, in this, as in most other disputable matters, is pro- bably the best.

The rands or ties made use of, here, are rushes (of the a wSj . T

are cut about Midsummer ; made, or dried, as hay ; and put up, in a sort of mow, under cover, until the tying season, the ensuing spring ; when they are tough, and well adapted to the purpose.

In tying, the workwoman kneels, on one or both knees, upon the side of the hill ; having a bundle of rushes hanging before her, in a sort of bag; apron ; which. as she kneels, nearly touches, or rests upon the ground. Three bines being selected, and brought to the pole, a rush is put round them, a foot or more from the ground ; and, their upper parts being wound, some- what spirallv, but with an easy curvature, upon the pole, and i un, another

rush band is tied, about a foot above the first ; more or less, according to the length of the vine in training, and the distance it rises from the pole.

If, at the time of tying, the root be found very strong, and has thrown out a super-

62 HOPS.

abundance of vines, eligible to be trained, a third pole is set up ; and, in this case, nine bines are trained.

On the 31st May, the tying was nearly over ; the workwomen being then thief] v employed, in adjusting, and retying the louse bi;ies, that had been torn from the poles by the wind ; the vines being, then, about six feet high.

SHIFTING POLES. This is a tedious and disagreeable part of the hop culture ; and requires great judgment and experience, to do it with good effect. The operation is that of removing a weak undersized pole, overloaded, or likely, from the strength of the hill on which it stands, to be overloaded, with bine, to a weaker hill, which has a strong pole ; thus reversing the situations, and offices, of the two poles. In perform- ing this operation, the ties are broken, and the bines laid down, until the poles are changed ; when the vines are wound upon the fresh poles (net veiy dexterously per- haps) and tied again, with fresh rushes.

If, at this season of the year, and during the adjustment of the poles, a hill is per- ceived to be so strong, as to be in danger

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 63

of overloading two well sized poles, a third pole is set up, and one vine taken from each of the other poles, and transferred to this. In a year of heavy bine, this appears to be a necessary work. Overloaded poles, broken off by the wind, are not only a loss in them- selves, but are liable to injure others in their fall. -

SPARE VINES. These are left, at the time of tying, to run wild over the inter- vals; and remain at the roots, until about Midsummer ; when they are taken off, and the hills rounded up.

Remarks. The reasons assigned, for this practice, are, that if they were taken off earlier, they would shoot again ; where- as, by letting them spend their strength, and then taking them off and burvins: the roots deeply with soil, they are subdued : and another, that thev help to shade the intervals, before the trained vines are able to do it; and thus tend to keep the ground moist. Suckers, too, are sometimes seen rising, in the intervals; and are considered as assisting in the same intention. Whether the abovereasons have any weight, or whether thev are the true ones for the

64 HOPS.

practice of this District, I will not attempt to say. But it appears to me, as being much more reasonable, that no stated time should be observed, with respect to the cut- ting off these spare vines; but that the pe- riod of their growth ought to be regulated, by the season, and by the strength and luxuriance; not of the crop in general, but of individual hills ; retaining them as regu- lators to the growth of the trained vines. In a forcing season, let them grow at will, to check, as much as in the nature of their growth they are able to check, the too great luxuriance of the crop. On the con- trary, in a backward season, check or re- move them ; in order to throw up additional vigor, into the rising vines.*

" BECKING." This operation is pecu- liar to the department of hop grounds, now under notice. The tool, with which it is performed, is of a singular construction. Itu resembles, in its general form, the mat- tock : one end of the head, or iron work, being an adze, or small strong hoe ; the other, a fork, or dung-drag ; differing, in

* For fuller remarks, on this head, see the District of Maidstone.

VALLEY OF FARXHAM. 6s

nothing, from the ordinary tool with which dung is usually drawn out of the tail of the cart ; except that the tines are somewhat flat, or broad ; as those of the dung drag sometimes are, and ever should be.

The intention and use of the beck is that of breaking the surface of stubborn ground, or that which has been run together, with rain, and baked by the sun, as well as of cutting, or tearing up, the weeds of the in- tervals. If the tines, or fork end, do not tear up a clod or a weed, the hack is applied. In using it, the workman appears to strike, nearly horizontally; but, in reality, some- what dipping ; loosening the soil, three or four inches deep.

The grounds of this department seldom having the summer digging* which is usual- ly given in Kent, (though I observed it in one instance) a more effective instrument, than the hoe, is requisite, to break, suffi- ciently, the surface of strong land.

The usual time of performing this opera- tion is the beginning of June.

The beck is useful, not only in chopping over and loosening the surface of the inter- vals, in summer ; but in opening the hills.

VOL. II. F

66 HOPS.

in the spring ; being a powerful and effec- tive tool, for this purpose. I have also seen it used, in hacking over the intervals of beans; and, in a dry season, it is valuable, ill this intention.

HOING. This operation is usually ap- plied, to cut oft the early spring weeds. In an instance, in which it had been omitted, the winter weed, chickweed, groundsel, <S:r. &c. had evidently seeded, before the time of becking ; and the seeds were, of course, k : into the soil, by the latter operation. It is usual to apply the hoe, again, between the becking and the harvesting, to prevent the second crop of weeds from seeding.

The weeds of the hop grounds of Farn- ham, the 9th May, 1791, were

Winter weed — veronica be der [folia.

Groundsel — senecio vulgaris.

Chickweed — alsine media .

Shepherd's purse — tblaspi bursa-pastoris.

Fum itory— fum aria officinalis .

Dwarf poe — poa annua.

Charlock — sinapis arvensis.

Cudweed — gnaphaliam lutco-album .

Dwarf nettle — lamium purpureum.

C lea v crs—galium a pari tie.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 67

Goose foot — chenopodhim ,

Convolvulus — convolvulus arvensis.

The hoes in use, here, vary with the in- tention, and the state of the soil. For merely cutting over the intervals, of loose free soil, a common plain hoe is used ; but, where the ground is stubborn, or baked with drought, a three-tined hoe is made use of! The tines flat, as those of the beck: a tool that might frequently be used, with good effect, in the intervals of beans, in a dry season. But, for scraping the surface of the intervals, and rounding up the hills, a very large plain hoe — a sharp mud-scraper — is in use ; answering the same purpose as the shovel, in the Kentish practice. I have likewise seen this uncouth, but efficient tool used, in cutting over the surface, in the spring, and early summer months.

PICKING. The season of picking, here, is earlier, even than in the Maidstone District : not, however, from this District being the forwardest, in regard to clima- ture ; but because hops are here gathered, in an earlier state of ripeness, than they are in Kent. At the close of the picking, in 1791, on the 18th September, the hops were F2

68 HOPS.

harelv in full condition ; had but just ac- quired those CRITERIA OF R IPENESS, which,

at Maidstone, are the signal for begini: What are here termed u fine hops," would in Kent be called " green hops ;" and, if bitterness be the most desireable quality, the " fine samples" of Farnham are, in reality, no other than hops, gathered, u \ rip

The apparatus of picking is the b. different, in construction, from that of W< 91 Kent ; and smaller: the modern bin being of a specific size, like the basket of Can: i - bury; each bag, or bin cloth holdir.. bushels. The bag is hung, on studs, set on the inside of a square frame of wood ; two ends of the frame rising somewhat above the bag, to receive the poles; which are here laid, horizontally, upon the end* of the bin : not made to lean against a r pole, or horse, as in the Kentish prac:

The workpeople are, here, much more numerous, in proportion to the quanti: work to be done, than in the Maidstone quarter. The picking is more tedious; and the season of picking is shorter. " Fine hops" bear the best price ; and every pru-

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 69

dent manager is anxious to make the most of his crop ; and, of course, to reap it, zvhile it is ripening. Hence, in a favorable season, the principal part of the picking is done, in ten days, or a fortnight. In 1791, the picking commenced on Saturday, the third of September, and the " sorting" closed on Wednesday the fourteenth ; the hops then becoming too high colored, for the pur- chasers of fine hops.

The workpeople are chiefly collected, from the towns of Surrey and Hampshire ; the town of Portsmouth inclusive.

They are divided into pickers and " pole pullers" and formed into sets, as in Kent ; and as the nature of the business indispen- sably requires.

In CUTTING THE VINES, and DRAWING THE

poles, the practices of the two districts are similar; except that the vines are here cut higher than in Kent ; owing, doubtless, to their being cut, in an earlier state of ripe- ness, and are therefore more liable to bleed, than the vines of riper hops. See Vol. I. p. 238, on this subject.

Picking. The pullers having laid the loaded poles, along the ground, in heaps,

7o HOPS.

by the sides of the bins, the pickers lift them, one by one, to the frames, each of which has two pickers ; one standing on either side. They begin to pick at the bottom of the pole,* moving it end way as it is picked ; and, having finished it, throw it on a pile : in which the unstript poles re- main, until the picking is over -f-

Another part oi this operation, that marks the practice of this District, still more strong- ly, is that of sorting the hops, as they are picked ; particularly in the early part of a favorable season ; and, always, when picking " fine hops." The bin cloth receives the first, or best sort ; a basket, which stands by the side of the frame, the " seconds ;" and frequently a third receptacle is pro- vided, for the " brown hops:" and some- times a fourth, for the " fliers."

Beside, the picking is done more accu- rately, here, than in Kent. The practice of " sorting" leads to the habit of pick-

* Whereas, in Kent, it is the invariable practice, to begin at the top.

t When, I understand, they are universally burnt ; and 'heir ashes wasted ! Even where dung is * a guinea a load" '

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. fk

ing the hops, singly. Even, at the close of the season, when they are picked " all to- gether," they are mostly picked, singly ; and not stript off the stalks, as in the Kentish practice. Hence, the Farnham hops have fewer leaves in them, than the Kentish hops ; even the few that are accidentally torn of£ are picked out of the bins.

Yet the prices given for picking, are not much higher, here, than in Kent. The ordi- nary price is three halfpence, a bushel ; or eight for a shilling. In 1 79 1, the crop being under par, two pence a bushel was given, towards the close of the season, with beer : namely, a quart of small beer to each of the pickers ; with ale to the pole pullers.

The measuring, or rather estimation, is done, in a summary way. Nothing is mea- sured, unless the picker remonstrate against the estimation ; which is made by the eye and experience of the steward. Where the ordinary bins, of seven bushels, are in use, the estimate is the less vague, than where bins, of irregular form, and indeterminate size are the receptacles. In proof, how- ever, of the expediiiousness, at least, of this

7? HOPS.

mode of ascertaining the value of the work- manship, I attended a hop planter (who acted as his own steward,) through one of his " measurings," where upwards of fifty pickers were employed ; and there was only one exception to his estimate.

This mode of valuing the labor saves much time; and is perhaps, on the whole, suffi- ciently accurate ; the parties giving and taking, as differences of opinion arise ; and by measuring, occasionally, the judgments of both of them are regulated.

The pickers' accounts are kept, at pre- sent, is a somewhat complex manner. To- kens of copper, numbered from one to ten, are given ; the number or numbers (if more than one piece is given) corresponding with the number of bushels. At stated times, as every two or three days, these tokens are called in ; and, for every tzcenty bushels, they amount to, a notch is cut on a tally* similar to that of Kent.

It is probable that keeping the accounts, by means of tokens, was the original me- thod of Farnham ; giving money for the tokens, whenever they are called in; and

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 73

that the tallies have been copied from Kent, in order to throw the whole season into one account, or general payment.

This being as it may, scoring, for every twenty bushels picked, is far less eligible, than for every shilling earned ; as being less ob- vious, and intelligible, to illiterate work- people ; requiring a sort of calculation, at the end of the season, to which many of them are not competent.

The finishing frolicks, here, exceed even those of Kent. The pole puller has not a handkerchief, only, but also a shirt (that is, a piece of linen cloth to make him one) given him by the pickers. This is worn, sash-wise, and is ornamented with ribbons. The women, likewise, decorate themselves, with such handkerchiefs, rib- bons, and finery, as they purchase at the shops, to carry home with them. Some of the companies parading the streets of Far 11- ham ; — perhaps with a fiddler at their head, — singing and shouting, ill tones of true licentiousness ; the evening being usually closed, by a dance ; and always with co- pious libations, — doubtless, to the goddess of hops.

74 HOPS.

The itinerants, who live at a distance, are (by agreement) sent home in waggons ; forty or fifty, perhaps, in each ; with a fiddler in the midst of them ; and v% ith their various colors flying. Altogether, a sort of glee and merriment, winch, in these deco- rous times, is rarely met with ; and whether it be right or wrong, let moralists deter- mine.

DRYING. The ordinary kiln, of this District, resembles the stove kiln of Kent:* — namely., a hollow cube, with one, two, or three " holes," mouths, or fire-places, in one side of it ; the only fuel, here, being charcoal. No sea coals nor even coke ; and little, if any, sulphur is used : gree?i, rather than yeHoic, being, here, the desired color : a " primrose color," however, is spoken of with some degree of respect.

In the neighbourhood of Farnham, there is an extraordinary pile o£ building, erected for the purpose of manufacturing hops. It is planned and executed with great judg- ment ; and is worthy of the attention of those, who are about to erect buildings, of this intention.

* See Vol. I. p. 261.

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 75

The part that struck me, as being the most estimable, in the construction of the kilns (though differing in other respects from the ordinary form) is that of their being furnished with two floors, one above the other ; with a space of five or six feet between them ; so as to give room, for the effluvia of the lower floors, to escape ; and for men to work upon them.

In drying, the fresh-picked hops are spread upon the upper floor ; and, by re- ceiving the heat which escapes through the drier hops, on the lower one, there lose a part of their moisture; and, when those below are removed, these, on the chamber floor, are let down, through a trap door, upon the immediate floor of the kiln.

This, for hops that are gathered under ripe, as those of Farnham mostly are, is an admirable expedient ; and is not, I under- stand, peculiar to the suite of hop kilns, above noticed. In any place, such a plan would be found most eligible, and pay amply, during the early part of the picking season ; as well as during moist weather, in any part of the season. See Vol. I. p. 264.

PACKING. The whole of the produce, of Farnham, is put into pockets; which are

76 HOPS.

marked, or rather decorated, with stamped devices, that are altered every year ; in order to distinguish the produce of Farnham, from the vulgar growths of the rest of the king- dom ; the Farnham planters entering into a bond, not to send any other hops, than those of Farnham, in packages bearing these de- vices.

The MARKET, for Farnham hops, is chiefly the fair of Weyhill ; to which they are carried, by land, between thirty and forty miles ! And those which are bought, there, by the London dealers, are carried from thence, back to London, near seventy miles !

This practice, however, is the more re- concileable to common sense, when it is known, that the Farnham waggons load back, with cheeses ; and that a considerable part of the hops, of this growth, go for- ward, into the West of England, by the waggons, which brought the cheeses to Weyhill.

Another condition of the bond, entered into by the Farnham planters, is not to carry any hops, into Weyhill Fair (acci- dents excepted) after twelve o'clock, on old Michaelmas day. Formerly, the hop fair

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. 77

lasted a week, or more: now, under this regulation, only a few days.

GENERAL REMARKS on the FARN- HAM PRACTICE.

The first and greatest evil, that reflection aptly suggests, is the waste of land, labor, and manure, that is incurred, by this mode of practice. The crop is not only, small, but the quality is weak. Half a ton, an acre, is esteemed as full a crop of " fine hops/' as. five or six bags are, in the Kent- ish practice. In 1791, the crop somewhat below par, six hundredweights were con- sidered as about the medium produce of Farnham : and judging from the " fine samples," that were shown me, the quan- tity of bitter and aroma, contained in these, could not be estimated at more than one half of what is contained, in a well matured, full-ripe sample, of Kentish hops, or of such fully matured hops, as I saw picking, at Farnham, in the wane of the season ; after the sorting, for fine hops, had closed. Estimating the quantities of bitter and flavor by the ordinary tests of the handle and the

78 HOPS.

smell, many of 'he finer leaves of the Maid- stone plantations appear to contain, as much * condition," as the fine hops of Farnham. And we may safely say, that, in a national light, the practice of Farnham is wrong.; as incurring a great waste of the three most valuable things, any country possesses: namely, land, manure, and labor.

Nevertheless, it appears to be the interest, and of course the best policy, of the proprie- tors of these lands, as well as of the plan- ters, to pursue the practice ; no matter how absurd it ma I in itself, or mis- chievous to the interest 01 the country. The rents of the Farnham hop grounds, and the prices of Farnham hops, are excessive ; — much higher, than they are in Kent.

In 1791, ten pounds, an acre, was not considered as an extravagant price, for grounds of a good growth; twelve or thir- teen pounds were said to be given, by men who make a distinct business of the hop culture; who hire grounds, and work them themselves, or With assistance. A gentle- man, near Farnham (who erected the ex- cellent drying house aforementioned ) is said to have advanced his estate, manifold, by

VALLEY OF FARNHAM. ,a

planting hops; keeping them in hand, un- til they have reached their full growth ; and then letting them out, in small lots, at the extravagant prices mentioned above. And, with respect to the prices of the hops,— the fine samples of Farnham, frequently, fetch twice the price of Kentish hops, that con- tain twice the quantity of bitter and aroma.

It will doubtless be said, by the Farnham planters, and the advocates for Farnham hops, that their flavor and color are finer, than those of any other growth. That they are weaker will readily be admitted ; and may not their weakness be mistaken for delicacy? I am not, however, sufficiently versed in the art of brewing, to say, that one fourth of the quantity of full ripe, high conditioned, well harvested hops, are equal to four times the quantity of the fine hops of Farnham.

They have, certainly, one very powerful recommendation. They are dear; bear the best price ; are ever at the top of the mar- ket. And although this may not always be a sufficient recommendation to gentle- men (by whom, I understand the Farnham

So HOPS.

hops are chiefly consumed) it doubtless has its weight with their butlers.

Upon the whole, however, if through the name of Farnham hops, such a liquor can be produced, as will render malt liquor fashionable, and thereby lessen the present inordinate import of foreign fruit liquors, it will be o( less concern to the public, whe- ther their estimated merits, in producing it, be real or imaginary.

THE HEATHS

OF

SURREY, &c.

THE KNOWLEDGE, which I have of these barren lands, has arisen in crossing them, in various directions ; as, by the great western road, between Staines and Bassing- stoke ; by the road, between Bagshot and Farnham; by passing, between Farnham and Petworth, by three different routes; and in going from Petworth to Petersfield. The northern extremity, and the part about Woking, towards Weybridge, I am the least acquainted with.

The SITUATION of this wide spread waste is in the four counties of Berks, Hants, Surrey, and Sussex ; but chiefly in the two

VOL. II. G

£2 HEATHS OF SURREY.

latter ; and the major part of it in Surrey ; forming a broad blank margin, on the west- ern side of the county.

The EXTENT would be' difficult to ascertain, without actual measurement ; the outline being extremely irregular. It reaches from Ascot Heath, in Berkshire, to Bexley Heath in Sussex, a distance of about thirty miles ; without any interruption ; except a few inconsiderable slips of cultivated lands, that run up into its area ; accompanying the brooks and rivulets, that have their rise within it. These, and other plots of in- closed lands, that indent it, on every side, render the width altogether uncertain. If we call the medial width five or six miles, we shall, I believe, come near enough the truth, to give a general idea of the extent ; so as to answer the present purpose. Six miles, I apprehend, is too much for the me- dial width of heath; as it would probably include some of those shreds of cultivation, above spoken of. I will, therefore, set down the width of heath, at five miles, and thus estimate the whole, at one hundred and fifty square miles; or a hundred thou- sand acres.

HEATHS OF SURREY. $3

The ELEVATION of this tract is re- markably small, for lands of this descrip- tion. The principal part of the Heaths of Surrey lie on almqst a dead flat ; and this barely high enough above the Thames, to shoot the waters, which escape from them, into that river. The southern extremity, however, rises to a considerable height. Hind Head, in Surrey, Black Down and Bex- ley Hill, in Sussex, are high lands ; though they have no claim, as mountains.

The SURFACE is of various casts : the cen- tral parts, as has been said, are mostly flat : the northern and western quarters rise with more billowy surfaces ; while, in the south- ern, the surface is broken, in a singular and striking manner. East Devonshire scarcely exceeds it, in the variety and irregularity of its surface: smooth-toped, steep-sided hills, of every shape ; divided by winding irregular vallies ; some of them of a strong improveable soil, if there were roads to carry away the produce. At present, the Heathy Heights of Sussex are as difficult of access, as the mountains of Merionethshire, or Perthshire.

G2

84 HEATHS OF SURREY.

The SOIL, of the whole of these heathy wastes, that I have particularly attended to, is a barren sand, or gravel ; encrusted with the black earth of heaths, of a dry crumbly quality; and, in general, very thin; the soil, altogether, being of the very worst quality ; especially, on the low flat-lying lands ; where it is inferior, even to that of the Yorkshire Moreland ; and much in- ferior to the heaths of the Highlands of Scotland.

The present PRODUCE, if it deserves the name, is a sort of dwarfish, stunted heath ; in many places unable to hide the sand, on which it may be said to starve. The flat, between Farnham and Godalmin, is, almost literally, a barren waste, a sandy desert. — Some of the hills, however, have a stronger heath ; and, upon Hind Head, a singular sort of brushwood issues from one of the vallies, or dingles, on its side, and spreads over part of the hill. It is mostly composed of shrubby wide-spreading oaks ; though not more, perhaps, than four or five feet high ; being cut oft with the winds, as with an edge tool. I have, since going

HEATHS OF SURREY. 85

over these wastes, seen similar appearances, on the skirts of Dartmore, in Devonshire.

The other shrubs, in this instance, are birch, white leaf (aria tbeophrasti) haw- thorn, furze, &c. The "running furze" (a variety oiultx europceus,— or a distinct species of ulei ; see West of England) here mixes freely with the heath: a so the biea- berry, or whortleberry (vaccinium tnyrtillus) — and the needle furze (genista anglica).

The LIVESTOCK, which this wide tract of country maintains, at present, are inconsiderable.

Those which are most conspicuous, on the barren flat Heaths of Surrey, are small mean-looking CATTLE. Yet they must be of a quality, intrinsically good, or they could not exist, on so base a pasture. Their bone is, in general, remarkably fine. In horn, color, and thinness of carcass, many of them resemble, so much, the ordinary longhorned breed, that there can be little doubt of their being of one and the same race.* And, what is observable, here the longhorned

* The history of this remarkable variety of cattle requires to be traced.

S5 HEATHS OF SURREY.

breed terminate, to the south. In the neigh- bourhood of Farnham, they are the esta- blished breed: while round Midhnrst, the Sussex cattle are in full possession ; Hind Head forming the boundary between them.

The number of SHEEP, seen on these barren lands, are inconsiderable; especially, on the more central and southern parts. In the Bagshot quarter, they are more nume- rous.

The breed resembles that of the wild lands of the West of England ; and they are probably a branch of the same ancient stock. See West of England. They are, in general, small, mean, ill formed animals. Their mutton, however, is in high repute. And they are probably well fleshed ; having been staned into their present state.

Of rabbits, I observed no one instance ; on any part of these weak, infertile lands !

But of FISH, I saw several instances: these being a species of livestock m husbandry, which is common to this and the two fol- lowing districts ; as well as to the more cultivated parts of Surrey.

The fish ponds, that are seen, in the dips and hollows, of the flatter parts of this

HEATHS OF SURREY. 87

barren tract, appear to be of long standing. The heads or dams, by which they have been formed, bear the marks of age. Some of them are of stones and earth ; one I ob- served of chalk.

The only particular that struck me, in the economy of these ponds, is the form- ing of dams, one below another, across the waste water channel ; doubtless, as means to prevent the small fish from escaping.

Remarks. Where the soil is worthless, how eligible to cover it with water ; and, by this means, to increase the value of the produce, of a given space, perhaps, an hun- dred fold. How many opportunities of this kind are neglected ; while rich meadow lands are buried under fish ponds ; and fre- quently to the great injury of other valuable lands, that lie below them.

Might not large tracts of this worthless land be profitably covered with deep water: not merely as a source of fish ; but to water the dry lands that lie lower ?

On a general view of this extensive tract of country, there will be little risque in saying, that, notwithstanding its advantages of situation, with respect to the metropolis,

88 HEATHS OF SURREY.

it is, in its PRESENT STATE, the most unprofitable, to the community, of anv dis^- trict of equal extent, in the Island ; the mountains on the north-west coast of Scot- land, perhaps, excepted.

Means of IMPROVEMENT suggested.

My only motive for bringing these un- profitable lands before the public, and giving the foregoing sketch of their natural state, and present productions, was to prepare the way for the following suggestions, relating to their improvement.

Having long been aware of the value of the larch, as a timber tree; and, seeing it thrive, with sufficient luxuriance, as such, on lands similar to the tract I was then ( 1791 ) repeatedly crossing :* observing the following year (1792) the progress made,

• The instance, which first caught my notice, and led me to the idea of raising larch timber on the waste lands under notice, occurred on a flat barren heathlet, in the interior of Sussex ; on which the larch throve with luxuriance ; outstriping any other plant. Since that time, I have seen other instances of a similar kind.

HEATHS OF SURREY. 2g

by this extraordinary tree, in the bleakest situations, and on the inferior soils of the Highlands of Scotland ; also learning, there, the extreme durability of its w ood ; and con- ceiving the possibility of training the trees for ship building ;* my reflections revert- ed, with double strength, to the barren tract, now under view ; whose situation is most eligible, as a source of ship timber ; be- ing equally within the reach of Portsmouth, and the several yards on the Thames ; as well as the private yards of the port of Lon- don ; from which water carriage might be extended, into every part of the forest ; so as to render land carriage, in a manner, un- necessary.

Should it even be found, that English larch is not quite so eligible, as English oak, for ship building ; yet it might, never- theless, be sound policy to use it, in that intention. The oak, to bring it to the size of ship timber, requires a good soil,

* See Planting and Rur: Orn: Vol. I. page 143. See also a Report to the Board of Agriculture, respecting the Central Highlands of Scotland.

e: HEATHS OF SURREY.

and a sheltered situation ; must be raised on corn* land; it might well be called the rival of the wheat crop: — and there is not a sounder position, in rural, or in po- litical economy, than that wood should be confined, as much as possible, to uncultur- able lands ; either as being too steep, too rocky, too bleak, or too barren, to bear profitable crops of corn, or herbage.

The larch, I believe, if planted with judgment, might be planted with certainty, on the major part of the lands under view. And it is highly probable, that, when once -her shall have been formed, on the better stapled soils, the weakest might be planted, with success ; and, it is possible, might produce wood of still greater dura- bility, than that grown on the less barren lands.

The profits arising, from this proposed improvement, to the planter, would be progressive ; and, in the end, immense. In the first thinning, (if planted sufficiently close) stakes and fagot wood, of the best quality, would be had. In the second, hop poles, superior perhaps even to those

HEATHS OF SURREY. 9*

of the chesnut, would be obtained. After- wards, larger poles, balks, or ufers, for scaffolding, and a variety of other purposes. Next building timber, and boards. And, ultimately) planks, and ship timber.

THE

VALE LANDS

OF THE

WEALD OF SUSSEX, &c.

TO REPEATED excursions, from Pet- worth, I owe the information I have col- lected, respecting these Vale Lands: my observations being more particularly made, in the western parts of them. I never- theless gained a more general view, of the District; in a route, taken for that pur- pose, by P ul borough, Billing shurst ,and Hors- ham, to Betszi-orth, in Surrey ; from whence, I have had frequent opportunities of ob- serving the northeastern quarter.

The SITUATION of this well defined natural district, is between the Hills

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 93

of Surrey, and those of Sussex ; which bound it, on the north, and the south ; with the Forest of St. Leonard (one of the heathy swells that fill up the northeastern quarter of Sussex*) on the east ; and, on the west, Black Down, and the other barren hills, which form the southern parts of the Dis- trict, last described ; lying, chiefly, within the county of Sussex ; but, in part, in that of Surrey.

The EXTENT, from the foot of Black Down, in Sussex, to the outskirts of the commons, below Betsworth, in Surrey, and winding, as the Vale Lands bend, round the Surrey Hills, is near thirty miles ; and the medial width may be estimated at ten miles: thus giving an area of near three hun-

* The Heaths of East Sussex and Kent. This barren tract reaches from Horsham to the Weald of Kent. The Forest of Ash Down (next in succession to St. Leonard's) as well as the Heaths about Tun- bridge Wells, are as bleak and barren as the Moretand of Yorkshire or Westmoreland. Hence this forms another heathy district of the Southern Counties; in extent equal to that above described ; but it is not so entire, nor, altogether so barren and un- profitable, as the Heath Lands of Surrey, &c.

94 DISTRICT.

dred square miles ; or two hundred thou- sand acres.*

The ELEVATION is inconsiderable ; being less, I believe, than that of any vale dis- trict, of equal extent, In the Island. Never- theless, it has ever lain sufficiently above the floods, to keep it free from surface water. I have observed no extent of water-formed land, in anv part of it ; though there is, here and there, a slip of what is called " brook land," and though on some of the flatter, commonable lands, the waters which fall on them, may hang occasionally, for want of proper shores to conduct them off.

The SURFACE is singularly uniform. Excepting the gentle rise of Billingshurst, and the rising grounds about Green, there are few prominent features, — scarcely a bil- low or a break, — to be seen, in any part of

* In looking from the loftier chalk hills of Surrey, a much wider extent is taken into the view. The Forest of St. Leonard, with other lands of a similar nature, and with a tract of broken country to the eastward, — lying comparatively low, with the Downs on either side of them, — appear as a continuation of the Vale ; and is all comprehended under the vague name of the " Wild." See the Weald of Kent, in Vol. I. p. 336.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 95

the area of this extensive tract of ground : which, however, is, in general, sufficientiy diversified, especially near the brooks and rivulets, with which it abounds, to shoot off surface water. The margins are more broken ; mixing, particularly on the west, with the heathy hills which bound them.

WATERS. In this respect, the exten- sive flat, under view, is remarkably circum- stanced. Lands of a similar description, lying between lofty ranges of high grounds, are generally accompanied by a river ; bear- ing some proportionate size, to the extent of the vale, and the height of the hills, that define it. Whereas the vale lands under view, instead of giving passage to waters, collected on higher grounds, may be said to give rise, themselves, low lying as they are, to three rivers ; whose branches, at least, have their origin within its area : name- ly, the Mole (and perhaps some slender branches, of the Wey), which falls north- ward, to the Thames ; and the Arun and Adur, which direct their courses southward, to the English Channel : the former collect- ing its waters, chiefly, within the limits pf Surrey, the latter within those of Sussex ;

95 DISTRICT.

the division of the counties being near the turn of the water ; which, however, is given by so gtjtle a rising, as to be imperceptible to the e

The SOIL is, almost uniformly, of a clayey retentive nature ; except near the extremi- ties ; where the sand hills mix, more or less, with the clayey soils. The low-lving lands are mostly pale, and unproductive ; while the rising grounds are generally of a higher color, and a more fertile quality.

Remark. This difference of quality, be- tween the soils of high and low grounds, is observable in other vale districts, and may be owing, not so much to any original dif- ference in their natures ; as to their respec- tive situations : the one having lain, from the time of their formation, in a drier, the other, in a moister state. And whether dry- ness, or what is usually, and not impro- perlv, called ~j.armtht be produced, by ele- vation, or by an absorbency of subsoil, the effect on the productiveness, or fertilitv of the land, is perhaps similar.

In a state of nature, trees would grow more luxuriantly, and afford a greater quan- tity of vegetable produce, as leaves, branches,

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 97

decayed stems, and roots, in dry and warm, than in cold ungenial situations : and this, alone, would be sufficient to alter the color, texture, and fertility of the rising grounds.

It is very probable, that the topsoils, of the present day, are, more or less, the ac- cumulations of their own produce ; accord- ing to the original covering ; and the cir- cumstances of situation, substructure, turn of surface, and elevation.

The SUBSOILS of this District I had few opportunities of examining. But the complexion of the soils, every where, shows them to be retentive.

In examining a stone quarry, towards the west end of the District, I found the substrata of varying qualities ; covering a seam of light blue limestone ; chiefly com- posed of marine shells, and in blocks, about eighteen inches thick ; lying in a watery bed, and a shelving posture ; dipping from seven to fourteen feet beneath the surface.

FOSSIL PRODUCTION. This lime- stone is sometimes called Sussex marble, or Petworth stone ; and is cut into chim- ney pieces, hearths, and is used otherwise as a material of building, and furniture. vol. n. H

98 DISTRICT.

ROADS. Excepting the more public ones; as between Godalmin and Petworth; Pet worth and Horsham (by Pulborough) ; and Horsham and Dorking ; and except a less public one, from the Godalmin road, towards the center of the Weald ; this ex- tensive and valuable District may be said to be at present (was in 1791) nit bout roads. In every part, I have been in, lanes are suf- ficiently numerous, and generally of ample width ; frequently wider than is necessary: but, unless .towards the outskirts, and in some particular parts, the lanes through the inclosed lands, as well as the glades across the commons, lie in their natural state ; worn into gullies, and trodden into sloughs. Even in the spring, and early summer months, they appear intolerable, to a stranger ; and, in winter, are barely passable to the natives of the country.

From Petworth towards the center of the Weald, attempts have been made, to form roads of hard materials. And, it is pro- bable, a sufficient quantity have been bu- ried, in the clay and mud, to have formed, under proper management, roads that might have been travelled, with conveniency, the year round.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 99

This subject will be resumed under the head of proposed imrovements.

I have to mention, here, an instance of practice, which I observed in the neigh- bourhood of Billingshurst, and which may well be adopted, as a general practice ; es- pecially where hard materials are scarce.

That the road may dry quickly, and, of course, to prevent unnecessary wear, the mud (which has a similar tendency as water to rot and injure roads) is scraped off; and suffered to remain, in narrow ridges, (or thinly spread) on either side of the road ; until it be sufficiently dry, to work easily, with a hoe, or other light tool : when the stones, that are necessarily scraped off with the dirt, are separated from it; and, with the hard materials thus disentangled, ruts and hollows are filled up, as fast as they are formed.

This light work is well suited, to worn- down, and maimed laborers ; and, in the instance under notice, one old man had the care of a considerable length of road ; which, under this principle of management, was, in the beginning of April, in the finest con- dition.

Hs

xee DISTRICT.

The TOWNSHIPS of the Weald are, in general, very large ; owing, as it would seem, to the fewness of sites, fit for habita- tions ; especially in the early stages of clearing and cultivation. At present, the sites of the villages, and especially of the churches and parsonages, are well chosen. But the fertile rising grounds, on which they are seen, were probably cultivated, long be- fore the rest was cleared ; being, in the first stages of society, scattered villages, or groups of huts, in wide spreading wroods ; which, in the more advanced periods, were divided among those eligible hearts of parishes.

STATE OF INXLOSURE. A large portion of these vale lands remain, in a state of commonage : particularly, on the out- skirts, and towards the extremities of the District : while the more central, and better lands, are mostly inclosed ; there being, I believe, no trace, at present, of common fields having ever gained an establishment.

The inclosures appear, pretty evidently, to have been made from a state of wood- land. Not, however, in the way in which forest lands, in other parts of the kingdom, have been inclosed ; not by following nar-

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 101

row lines of bushes, or underwood, and clearing up to these, on either side ; thus leaving crooked hedges, and irregular in- cisures ;'• but, by leaving broad, straight- edged hedgerows, with square, or straight- lined inclosures, surrounded with these wide borders of wood .

Remark. This appears to have been done, on the same principle of precaution, that the coppice hedges of Devonshire were raised ; namely, to afford a supply of fuel ; there being, in the greater part of the Weald, no extensive plots of woodland left ; and, in this recluse, roadless district, wood, grow- ing within each township, was necessary. And it shows a degree of prudence and fore- cast, which does credit to those who struck out, and established, so valuable a custom. In Holderness, in Lincolnshire, and in some parts of the Midland counties, — where the woodlands have been improvidentlv swept away, and no provision made, to give the requisite supply of fuel, in places where coals, peats, or turves, are not to be had, but at too great a cost for farmers and cot- tagers to compass, — straw and the dung of

• See Midland Counties on this subject.

io2 DISTRICT.

cattle, are ordinary articles of fuel, — even to this day !

The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of the portion of vale lands, now under con- sideration, may be said to be wood, and arable crops ! Excepting the commons, and some narrow slips of brook land, there is scarcely an acre of natural her- bage, or old grass land, in a township : and this, notwithstanding almost every acre of the District is fitter for permanent her- bage, than for any other species of produce. The green lanes, every where, are seen in the finest turf. But the inclosures having been formed, from a state of woodiness ; and having, ever since, been subjected to the plow (or, if suffered to lie a while to rest, it has been for so short a time, and in so foul and weak a state) they have never had an opportunity of acquiring a thick pro- fitable sward of perennial herbage : and it is, I believe, considered, by their occupiers, as a thing impossible, to bring them into so desirable a state.

Near the village of Kirdford, I observed two or three instances of old sward. But it appeared to have grown into grass.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 103

from the forest state. Not the trace of ridge or furrow. The herbage various and good.

This subject, also, will be resumed, in offering hints for improvement.

To speak of the ORNAMENT, of the wide flat of vale lands, now in view, might seem almost ridiculous. Yet there are passages ; particularly that between Green and Billingshurst ; where the two principal branches of the Arun separate ; in which much beauty may be caught ; though, with, the present roads, it cannot well be en- joyed, by travellers. There is an advantage, in a vale district, which elevated grounds have not ; for if a tolerable foreground can be had, good distances are seldom wanting.

[ 104 ]

MANAGEMENT

OF

ESTATES

OF ESTATES, or their management, I learnt little, that is profitable, in this Dis- trict.

Property appears to be much divided : many comfortable places of small owners (the roads to them apart) are seen scattered, on the better lands; but the principal part is in the hands of tenantry.

The prevailing tenancy, I understand, is that of leases, of fourteen, or twentyone years ; especially, on the smaller estates ; while on some of the larger ones, the occu- pation remains, at will.

The usual time of the removal of te- nants is Michaelmas.

The buildings of farms are, in general, mean. The materials, of the shells, are

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 105

mostly timber ; with weatherboarding, or strong laths and plaster, or pannels of brick- work ; — of the roof, plain tiles, thatch, and chips ! namely, the splinters and shavings of hoops, and other coppice wares ; with which hovels and sheds are frequently thatched.

In the plan of farmeries, I observed nothing commendable. They are, gene- rally, ill sheltered thoroughfares ; such as are seen, in other recluse, unimproved parts of the kingdom.

The corn barns, in general, are suffi- ciently high, in front, to admit a loaded car- riage, beneath the plates ; but drop lower, behind ; so as only to give height enough, for the empty carriage to be drawn out.

Hay barns are very common, in the Weald. The foundation masonry ; the roof fixed ; being supported, by a sort of slight, open frame-work. Some of them are of a large size : costing fifty to a hundred pounds, in building. Suppose one, to hold fifty loads, costs fifty pounds, the annual ex- pence may be reckoned at eighteen pence, to two shillings, a load. In a difficult hay

io6 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.

harvest, this is no consideration, compared with the advantage of having a safe recep- tacle, for the hay, as fast as it becomes dry ; beside the saving, in winter, by having the broken cuts always under cover.

The hedges of the Weald have been mentioned, as broad forest belts ; with, of course, afe?ice, running through the middle, or on one side of the border. The hedge- woods are black thorn, hazel, maples. Mc. which are cut, or laid, at the time the cop- pice border is felled ; and this is regulated, as in the management of other coppices and underwoods; which will appear under

WOODLANDS.

A method of guarding the fresh '-made banks of outside fences, against lanes or commons, may be noticed ; as being particularly use- ful, in making up decayed parts. It is simply that of setting up long, rough black- thorns, against the bank ; laying three or more rods across them, at equal distances ; and pinning these, close to the bank, by- means of strong hooked pins. This thin covering lasts, until the bank is compleatly firm, and its surface bound by the grasses

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 107

and weeds ; which, by this means, have time, and opportunity, to flourish, and take deep root.

In the gates of the Weald, we fre- quently find the old, and doubtless the ori- ginal, hartree and stay ; namely, a forked bough, with one strong arm, set upright, as the hartree (or principal end piece by which the gate is hung), and with a smaller one, rising obliquely, as the stay to the top rail : thus forming the stifFest, and most durable gate.

The method of hanging these gates is equally primitive, and simple ; and, for common field gates, where there is not a particular road or thoroughfare, a better perhaps has not been introduced, into mo- dern use. The bottom or foot of the har- tree being reduced to a pin, or wooden pivot, or shod with an iron one, — and the top of it, in like manner, formed into a pin, or round tenon, about three inches diame- ter,— a piece of plank, with a hole through it of a size suitable to the top of the har- tree, is morticed into the post, — or, which is better, when the post is short, is dove- tailed into the top of it ; and another

io8 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.

piece (answering to the head of the post) is spiked down upon it, to keep it firmly in its place, and to preserve it, and the head of the post, from decay. These pivots are less expensive, and less liable to be out of order, than hooks and thimbles.

WOODLANDS

AND

HEDGEROWS.

THE TWO, here, are under a similar course of management ; being applied to the same purposes of timber and under- wood. Hence, in the area of the Weald, though there are no uoods, there is much timber and underwood ; resembling in de- scription and management, the extensive tracts of inclosed woodlands, on the western margin.

Sussex having been long celebrated for its timber, I gave particular attention, to

WEALD OF SUSSEX. i0?

its growth and management ; but gained less information, which was ?iezv to me, or peculiarly excellent, than I had been led to expect. The superiority of the Sussex tim- ber appears to be more owing, to the Sus- sex soils being peculiarly favorable to the growth of the oak, than to a uniform supe- riority of management.

Nevertheless, in a country, where timber may be said to have been a staple produce, for ages past, the mode of treatment, that has grown out of this length of practice, is entitled to a scrutiny.

In viewing the practice of the Weald of Sussex, with respect to its woodlands, it will be proper to observe the following arrangement.

The rise of the present practice.

Its outline or general economy.

The method of training, now in use.

The age of felling.

Valuing and sale of timber.

The method of taking it down.

Application of the Weald timber.

Converting timber.

Coppice woods.

no WOODLANDS.

Not many centuries ago, perhap.j, the whole of the vale lands of the Weald of Sussex were in a state of woodiness. The iron forges, with which its outskirts, for- merly abounded ; and the demand for ship timber, during some centuries past, have been the means, probably, of reducing the quantity of timber, at least.

The reason why much of the western margins of the vale lands remain in wood, while the area has long 'been cleared, ap- pears to be the greater difficulty of car- riage, which the interior: of the vale expe- rienced ; whether in conveying charcoal to the forges, fuel and fencing materials to the neighbouring hills, or timber to the ship yard, or other market. Woodland was of less value, in the are; j, than on the margins ; while the lands, in general, were better adapted to corn.

This being as it may, it is evident, that there has been p* time, when the clearing of woodlands \\?js carried to excess ; either through the s uccess that attended it, on the better lands ; or through a temporary rise, in the valur > of corn lands ; or a depression

WEALD OF SUSSEX. in

of the value of woodland produce ; at the time, probably, when the furnaces were ex- tinguished. It is evident, that lands have been cleared, and no doubt at a great cost, which would, now, be more profitable in wood, than in any other produce.

And it is ascertained, by tradition, that at no great distance of time, even timber has been of little estimation ; estates having been, formerly, bought and sold, without much regard to the timber they bore ; and instances are mentioned, in which (pro- bably through a rise in the market) the purchase money has been regained, by the timber alone. This has roused men of landed property, to a closer attention to their woodlands, and hedge timber ; and this, to a more accurate and regular plan of management.

The GENERAL ECONOMY, or out- line, of this plan, may be conveyed, as fol- lows. The main or ultimate object is tim- ber : coppice, or underwood, being only a mean to that end. Thus, when a wood of timber is fallen, the shoots from the stools are protected, as coppice wood: and at the fall of this, every seedling plant of

ii2 WOODLANDS.

oak, that has sprung up, in the interspaces* is sedulously left ; to rise for another crop of timber: it being an invariable principle of management, with the Sussex woodmen, to reject all sapling shoots, from the stools of fallen trees, as standards, for timber. At the next fall of coppice wood, the timberlings, or " tellers," left, at the first cutting, are thinned, where they are too numerous, and others left, in the vacancies, which were not sufficiently filled, in the first instance : thus, continuing to nurse up seedlings, in the vacancies, and to thin crouded tellers, unt.& the entire ground be occupied, by seminar timber trees: continuing,however,tocutoff the underwood, from time to time, so long as it pays for the labor : which, under the present practice of felling timber, prema- turely, is probably until the fall takes place. Under this routine of management, it is evident, that the Sussex timber woods be- come, in effect, groves ; and its timber,

STRAIGHT-STEMMED, GROVE TIMBER. For,

growing with great luxuriance, and in a crouded state, the trees shoot up, straight, as pines ; with the bark, generally, as smooth and as palely colored, as that of the

WEALD OF SUSSEX. n3

beech, or the esculus ; and with regular elliptical heads, resembling those of the latter ; except that the tops of the Sussex oaks are generally more pointed, and co- nical.

In the woods, now training, there will scarcely be a strong knee, or a sharp crook, in a hundred acres. And the trees of the hedgerows, being trained, in a similar way, their structure is very much the same ; ex- cept that the underwood being less close, strong, and tall, (as it is liable to be brouzed by cattle) the stems are not forced up, so high, as they are in the woods ; where twelve to fifteen feet is the usual length of stem ; while, in the hedgerows, eight to twelve may, perhaps, be taken as the more common height.

The METHOD OF TRAINING is judicious ; being well calculated to give strength, and length of stem. The great error, in training timber trees, where the young plants rise thickly on the ground, is that of leaving too many; and thereby leading them up, weak, and topless.

The yeomanry of the Weald, — having, in the experience of ages, come at this

vol. ir. I

,i4 WOODLANDS.

truth* ; and seeing, in each other's woods, the mischiefs, which an overvveaning fond- ness, in the owner, for every straight, luxu- riant teller, no matter whether properly placed ; (thus leaving too many, to the in- jury of the whole) — form themselves, into societies, or clubs ; meeting, at each other's houses, and going over their respective woods, to point 'out and correct, their se- veral errors.

Remark, This custom, in itself, is suf- ficient to establish accurate ideas, on the subject ; and similar meetings, and juridical

* On setting out tellers. Yet, woodmen even of the first experience, in the Weald of Sussex, differ in their opinions, respecting the particular man- ner, in which " tellers" should be set out: namely, whether they should be left, in the first instance, at the distance, ultimately required ; as one to two statute rods ; or whether they should be thinned, from time t» time, as their tops enlarge.

The first gives greater freedom, in reaping the suc- ceeding falls of underwood (and is of course more favorable to a tenant who reaps them) ; the latter, a better choice of trees, and a greater chance of furnishing, eventually, an even, full, tall grove of timber. But it is less calculated to grow knees and crooks, than the prac- tice of setting the standards out, at a full distance, in the first instance.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. n5

decisions, might have as good an effect, in other matters of rural economy; especially in the breeding of stock. The annual shows of rams, in the Midland Counties, have doubtless been highly useful, in ripening the judgments, of those who attend them. And all public shows, of livestock, have a similar tendency ; by associating indivi- dual opinions, and (when private interest and passion do not get the better of reason and general utility) drawing from them the most accurate ideas, they collectively afford. But they are, by no means, equal to meet- ings of professional men, for the purpose of going over each other's flocks and herds, of different breeds and ages, to point out, not only the individuals, which are proper to be kept on, to improve the several breeds ; but also those which ought to be expelled, as being liable to injure them ; beside giving the subject a sort of agitation, which it cannot receive, without a free communica- tion of sentiments and opinions : and this most particularly, when men, whose pre- judices have separate roots, are brought to- gether.

I 2

n6 WOODLANDS.

And hence, would arise one of the many advantages, to be expected, from PUBLIC SEMINARIES.

Piiuni.vg timber, trees. There is a principle of management, adhered to, in the Sussex practice ; especially in the train- ing o( zvood timber; which may be right in Sussex, where not only timber, but under- wood, grows with unusual luxuriance; but which, in countries less prone to wood, might be deemed most improvident ; as leaving that to nature, which, as in many other instances, ought to be assisted by art.

A Sussex woodman may be right, in never using the pruning knife; as the luxu- riance of the underwood, there, precludes the use of it. The impervious thickets, that grow round voting timber stands, smother, or check, the tender side shoots, to a cer- tain height ; as ten to fifteen feet ; and, if this be a sufficient length of stem, for a Sussex timber tree, their principle of ma- nagement is right.

But, in training hedgerow trees, this re- ligious principle is, frequently, or uniformly,

WEALD OF SUSSEX. ir7

dispensed with. In this case, the young trees are pruned, " as high as a man can reach ;" and if he should mount a ladder, and go a little higher, the advantage, not only to the trees, but the fences, and the grounds on either side of them, would be increased.

Remarks. A more erroneous, and in- jurious opinion does not exist, in the whole circle of rural management, than that of leaving timber trees to Nature, in situations where Art has put it out of Nature's power, to give them the proper assistance ; as is invariably the case, with respect to hedge- row and standard trees: and is equally such, in wood trees, where the natural growth of underwood is not sufficient, to force them up, to the length of stem, that human pur- poses require. What injury, can removing a twig, the size of the finger, from a stem the thickness of the arm, do to the body of a tree, then to be produced? And, under common good management, there is no oc- casion to remove a twig, thicker than the finger, nor to prune a stem larger than the arm ; provided the operation be performed, in due time.

u8 WOODLANDS.

The argument held out, by the Sussex woodmen, is, that boughs, though ever so small, even twigs, which are cut off, from stem of a tiee, cause a "bleeding;" and this is injurious to the " heart." While a bough of the largest size, which rots off, leaves not even a scar, or a crinkled grain behind ; the stump filling up the orifice, until the wound be healed over : and this argument has been so long made use of, until those who apply it, believe it to be true.

But who, in passing through a wood, has not seen the stems of trees using every effort, to overtop decayed stumps ; rais- ing their barks and outer growths, several inches, perhaps, without the general sur- face ? At length, the bark reaches the end of the stump, or the stump rots down to the bark ; where, if it be large, a hollow- is formed; convenient, in the first instance, for birds to build their nests in ; and, as the decay proceeds, becomes a receptacle for water ; the rottenness, sinking, by degrees, until the heart of the tree be reached.

General remarks, on the Si isex prac- tice. The Weald of Sussex has long been

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 119

celebrated, for its oak timber ; and, of the excellency of its quality, there cannot be the least doubt. But, from an attentive exa- mination of the soil, and the management, by which it is produced, I am clearly of opinion, that its superiority may be fairly claimed, by the former. For, unless in the particular of setting out young stands, with sufficient freedom, I perceived no superiority of treatment, in Sussex ; — compared with other woodland districts of the kingdom.

With respect to the practice of training oak timber trees, from seedling plants,* and scrupulously rejecting sapling shoots, the propriety, or impropriety, of it de- pends, entirely, on circumstances.

In a situation, where a sufficiency of seed- ling plants can be haf, in a few years; and

♦"Seedling oaks." Woodmen, in different parts of the Island, and even in the Weald of Sussex, differ in their opinions, respecting the young plants of oak, which rise in the interspaces of fallen woods; as to whether they are wholly seedlings, from acorns, disse- minated by birds or vermin, or in part suckers, thrown up, by the more superficial roots of the fallen trees.

This matter requires to be cleared up. If the oak sends up suckers, exposing its roots to the atmosphere might assist in producing them.

120 WOODLANDS.

where a stra;ghtness of timber, either for the bouse carpenter's use, or for planks to be used in ship building ; and especially where coppice ware is wanted ; — the practice of training seedlings appears to be perfectly eligible. But, in situations, in which the oak is less a native ; where a sufficiency of seedlings could not be expected, to fill up the ground, in the course of a few years ; more especially where mere coppice wood is of little value (as in the coal countries) and where ship timber is the main object, — training the first shoots from the stools of fallen trees is, indisputably, the most eligible practice.

A Yorkshire wood, trained from the stools, agreeably to the common practice of that county, has an hundred fold the num- ber of crook and knees, that a wood of the Weald of Sussex has, when trained, agree- ably to the practice of that district, from seedling plants.

Were the several circumstances of the two districts duly weighed, it is more than probable, that both practices would be found nearly right ; each being adapted to the soil and situation in which it is established.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. m

And it would, of course, be wrong, to trans- plant either of them, into the soil and situa- tion of the other.

There is, however, one point of the Sus- sex practice ; which, though not peculiar to Sussex, might be introduced, with good effect, in many places, where it is not thought of, or used, at present. This is draining the wet swampy parts of woods ; so as to carry off surface water, at least ; and, in some cases, to cut off the springs. In this, the Sussex woodmen might will be copied, universally.

Accurate management requires, that a crop of wood, as of corn, or herbage, should be even, and full, on the ground ; and that every part should be productive.

AGE OF FELLING TIMBER. Either from an extraordinary demand for ship timber, and other timber of size, or from the price which bark has borne, for some time past, or a concurrence of other circum- stances, there is no oak timber left standing, in the Weald of Sussex (except on the de- mesne lands of men of fortune), which, either in growth, or in size, is applicable to the purpose of building ships of burden and

122 WOODLANDS.

strength. In 1791, there were verv few woods of more than half a century stand- ing : and woods, even of less than that were then paying, not the debt of nature, but the debts of their owners. The oldest wood, I find particularized on mv Journals, was then about seventy years old : and this drew my attention, more particularly, as it was, at that time, making its bow.

I recollect but one estate, on which a re- servation of timber is now making : and, should succeeding possessors be as solicitous to preserve, as the present proprietor is to train up, this estate must necessarily be- come, a century hence, a valuable boon to the possessor and the community. I speak of the Petworth estate.

SELLING and VALUING TIMBER. Large allotments are sold to timbermen, who purchase them standing, take them down, and convert them, for the ship yards.

The sale is generally, by private con- tract; the seller and buyer making their separate valuations ; by measuring and es- timating the trees, as they stand, in a ready and accurate manner.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 123

It is done by means of a long rod, or slender pole, about a statute rod in length ; generally, a slender ashen sapling, that has been drawn up, to that length, among tall coppice wood : and its mean thickness is about that of the handle of a hay rake: together with a measuring strap, on the most simple principle ; the invention of long and extensive practice ; being common to the Woodlands of Sussex ; and is, per- haps, peculiar to them : I have observed it no where else in use. It is a long slender strap of leather, graduated and figured, agreeably to what is called timber girt ; (allowance being made for the bark) so that the figures and intermediate graduations show, at sight, what the naked timber will square ; and the rod gives the length of the main stem, at least ; so that, by the help of the sliding rule, the admeasurement of the principal part is set down, in this summary way, with a sufficient degree of exactness. The upper length, if the tree be very tall, also the main bough, or spire, together with one other bough, are estimated, by the eye : it being the practice of Sussex, to measure two principal boughs, or branches,

124 WOODLANDS.

of the top of a timber tree, up to six inches timber girt.

Two men, accustomed to this mode of estimation, will " view" an extent of tim- ber, with very little deviation, as to quan- tity. Hence, the matter of bargain lies with the specific qualities of the wood and bark, the situation in which they grow, and the fair market prices, at the time of sale.

Another simple invention, probably the result of the same long continued practice, has been hit upon, for marking the trees, thus measured, and set out, for sale. This is a light hatchet, with a broad hammer end, and with a letter or other character, rising, with a sharp relief, out of the face of it. The roughness of the bark being struck

. with the edge of the hatchet, the re- qu ed mark is imprinted, by one stroke of the Hammer.

The method of TAKING DOWN tim- ber trees here, is? invariably, that of sawing them off, horizontally, close to the ground : bv means of a long saw, with one or both handles fixed on the upper side, in a manner somewhat similar to that, by which the

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 125

lower handle of the pit saw is fixed, at the back : the trees being first dipped in, on the falling side, with an axe.

Remark. This method of taking down timber is very eligible, in a wood, where a fresh supply of shoots, from the stools, is required ; as saving more timber, than the North-of-England method, of cutting them, aboveground, with axes; beside leaving the top of the stool, level with the ground ; so that the sapling shoots spring quite down to, or from beneath, the surface of the soil ; as they ever ought. But, for standard trees, and, in all cases, where the land is intended to be kept in, or converted to, a state of husbandry, whether as arable or as grass land, this method is very improper; as in- curring, not only a waste of land, but of timber ; compared with that of the Nor- folk and Midland practices, of cutting off the side roots, and tearing out the crown, entire, and adhering to the stem of the tree.

In an instance, in which many large trees had been taken down, in the Sussex man- ner, on pasture land, rings of sapling shoots had risen, round the stools ; which, them- selves, were not only an additional incum-

i26 WOODLANDS.

brance to the land ; but, being large and smooth, and, after rain, slippery as glass, were dangerous to playful horses, or young cattle. Had they been taken down, in the method above mentioned, and the dimples, which this method leaves in the surface, filled up with ant hills, or other roughness of the soil, and grass seeds sown over them, the entire surface would, at o.ice, have be- come sightly and productive.

In the barking of the oak, I observed no striking improvement, or deviation, from the ordinary practices of the kingdom, col- lectively. The trees are peeled, about a yard high ; and, sometimes, six or eight feet high ; while standing ; before the axe is laid to them.

In the peeling toolsy the only particular, that deserves to be registered, is the handle of the larger tool ; which is sometimes that of a broken spade or shovel ; or is made with the same sort of end, as the handles of those tools are in the South of England ; giving both power and ease to the hand of the workman.

The bark is set up to dry, with unusual care and accuracy. The ordinary trestle,

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 127

formed of forked piles, and horizontal poles, or a cord, as strong rope yarn, fastened to the top of a line of stakes, is the stay ; against which the small and middle sized bark is set, very even and upright ; the large, thick, coarse pieces of stem bark be- ing put over them, as a roof ; which shoots oft' rain water, almost entirely, from the up- right pieces ; at the same time shading the thin rinds, from the sun ; while the thick stem bark is placed judiciously, to receive the full effects of the sun and wind.

The APPLICATION of the timber of the Weald is chiefly to ship building. For although, at present, there is very little large r.mber left, such is the estimation of the timber of Sussex, that trees, of twenty feet measurement and upwards, are eagerly purchased, by the builders. In 1791, I saw very few trees taken down, of more than a ton of timber each.

In the CONVERTING of timber, I saw little to instruct, in this District ; the straight zcood trees are sawn up, into planks ; the hedgerow trees, where forks, or bends, have casually formed, into biees and crooks.

It is, I understand, the prevailing practice

123 WOODLANDS.

of the District, for the timber merchant, or other seller, to convert, by slitting or squar- ing, the whole, or some considerable part, of the quantity that is offered for sale. This not only lightens the carriage, but shows the growth and quality of the timber.

The COPPICES, or undergrowth, of the woodlands of the Weald of Sussex, are of

Oak, Ash,

Birch, Mountain sorb,

Alder, Wild cherry,

Sallow, White leaf,

Hazel, Chestnut,*

Dogwood. The age of felling coppice woods is that of ten years, more or less ; as eight to twelve years.

The wares, into which these woods are converted, are

Hoops, Stakes and Edders,

Fagots; as Hurdle Rods.

f Baker's bavins/' Poles, " Spray bavins," Cordwood: for fuel, " Brushes," for Common charcoal, kindling fires, Gunpowder coal.

• But, query, native, or propagated?

WEALD OF SUSSEX. i2p

Hoops and gunpowder woods are the more valuable articles. The species of woods most in esteem, for the former, are the ash, the sallow, the birch, the hazel : for the latter, the alder, the dogwood (cornus sanguinea), the sallow, (salix caprea). Hence, the oak ranks low as a coppice wood ; being chiefly converted to fuel.

The hoop-rods, are slit, and shaved up rough, in the woods ; and are sent to Lon- don, in bundles, of sixty each, and about thirteen feet long, to the hoop-benders; who dress, bend, and sort them ; according to the markets, for which they are suitable. The principal part of the Sussex and Surrey hoops, I understand, go to the West Indies; for the binding of sugar casks.

The gunpowder wood is invariably peeled ; being left standing, for this pur- pose, until the bark will run;* and is char- red, with peculiar care.

* Vegetation. An experienced woodman has ob- served, that the shoots, from the stools of wood, felled in this state of growth, are much stronger, than from those, off which the wood has been taken, in the winter months ; and accounts for it, by the wounds of the latter being exposed, between the cutting and the protrusion

VOL. II. K

I3o WOODLANDS.

A most ingenious apparatus (on tho principle of the gun-barrel, it would seem) has lately been set up, in West Sussex (and others, I understand, in different parts of Kent) for charring wood, for the use of gunpowder makers, without suffering the atmosphere to communicate with it, during the process.

The price of gunpowder wood, in 1791, was twenty shillings, a cord ;* while that of ordinary woods, was only thirteen shillings. The price of full sized wood fagots (four

of the shoots. But the fact is, the shoots are not pro- truded from the immediate margin of the wounded part ; but through the sound, firm bark, below it ; and although, even in the winter months, the bark may chap and rise from the wood, a few lines below the top of the stump, this only brings out the shoots, so many lines lower ; which is ever favorable to the strength and firmness of the rising sapling. This observation of the woodmen of the Weald of Sussex seems only to corroborate the idea, that the extraordinary shoots of trees and shrub-wood, cut late in the spring, is owing to the previous influence of the atmosphere, on the removed growth. See Nor- folk, Mis: 34, on this subject.

• The West Sussex cord, or stack of wood, measures three, three and a half, and twelve ; or four, four, and eight ; according to the uses, for which the ■wood is intended.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 131

feet long, and three and a half feet girt) was fifteen shillings a hundred (of five score) ; that of spray fagots (very light, — used chiefly for lime burning) five shillings, for the same number.

The woodlands of West Sussex are, now, mostly IN HAND ; being occupied by their respective proprietors ; who employ wood- men, to reap the underwood, and train the seedling tellers.

Remarks. Selling underwood, on the ground, where timber to be reared from seedling plants is the object, to dealers, who have an interest in clearing the ground be- fore them, becomes altogether imprudent. Tenants have a still greater interest in pre- venting the growth of timber. And being at the discretion, and liable to the unfair dealings, of an inferior class of agents, is also objectionable ; though of the three, the first to be chosen.

Ka

[132]

AGRICULTURE.

FARMS. In size, the farms of the Weald are of the middle class. They extend from one hundred to three or four hundred acres, each : the larger farms, that include the ordinary admixture of lands, letting (in 1791) from five to ten shillings, an acre; the rents of farms rising from fifty to two hundred pounds, a year : with some few below and above these limits.

The plan is generally good. The build, ings, are mostly situated within the area of the farm lands: an ordinary circumstance, this, where lands have been laid out into farms, from the forest, woodland, or common

state. . .

The characteristic, as has been inti- mated, is arable land, with the coppice hedge- rows that have been mentioned ; but with scarcely any perennial grass lands: some slips of water formed " brook lands," only

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 133

excepted : and this, although the greater part of the lands, the district includes, are more suitable, for wood and herbage, than for arable crops : but most for a due pro- portion of the three.

The FARMERS, or occupiers, of the Weald lands, are yeomen and tenants. Many of the former, and a few of the latter* are substantial. But the tenantry, in gene- ral, notwithstanding the lowness of their rents, are as poor, weak, and spiritless, as their lands ; drawn down, as for ages they have been, with exhausting crops ; without a sufficiency of stock, or of extraneous ma- nures, to make up for this endless exhaus- tion.

With good roads, and a suitable course of practice, there are men who have sub- stance, and spirit enough, to raise the Weald lands to twice their present value.

WORKPEOPLE. In travelling over the vale lands, under view, nothing strikes a person, accustomed to agricultural surveys, more, than the extreme fewness of its inha- bitants ; even though the whole country may be said to be under a course of arable management ! the villages are not only few.

r34 AGRICULTURE.

but small ; and a man may travel, for miles, without seeing a hamlet, or scarcely a soli- tary road-side cottage. It is no wonder, that the lands are under worked, and un- productive.

The BEASTS OF DRAFT, in the Weald, are oxen and horses: perhaps, at present, in nearly equal proportions. As hard roads increase, the use ok oxen, I am afraid, diminish. Chalk, for lime, is fetched from a considerable distance, to most parts of the District ; and unless water carriage should be extended, across the area of these vale lands, it is to be apprehended, that horses, for road teams at least, will increase. Beside, the Weald farmers allege, as a rea- son for keeping so many expensive horses, that they cannot plow with oxen, in a wet autumn, so well as they can with horses ; and so long as they use horses at length, and oxen double, their reasoning is good. But it has no weight with the general ques- tion, with respect to horses and oxen, as beasts of labor, for the use of a Weald far- mer.

The oxen are of the middlehorned class, and what is properly called the " Sussex

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 135

breed"; which will be particularly mention- ed, in the next District.

They are usually worked in double yokes, without horses before them (a pair of aged oxen being the usual leaders). I met with one instance, however, in which single yokes, with harness added to them, were in use ; the yokes answering the purpose of collars. But this, I believe, cannot be said to make a part of the established practice of the District.

The age of work, in 1791, was from three to six or seven years old. But the late ex- traordinary rise in the price of beef, I ua* derstand, has carried off most of the aged oxen ; and must, in the ordinary course of its effects, reduce the number of working cattle ; or prevent their arriving at an age, at which, only, they can be said to be fit for work.

The horses are of the heavy, cart kind : partly, bred in the country : in part, pur- chased.

The road team of horses, is four to six ; of oxen, six to ten. The plow team, of horses, three or four, at length ; of oxen, four to eight. The ox cart is usually

136 AGRICULTURE.

drawn by four. They are driven with the goad : and by the Yorkshire language !

Muzzles are in use, for oxen at work, here, as in the Weald of Kent. Here, I have seen, not only baskets, as in Kent, but strong nets, used in this intention.

IMPLEMENTS. The waggons of the Weald, as of most vale, deep-roaded districts, are tall and large ; with a wide grasp, or span, between the wheels; which are, here, frequently made, with fellies, of six inches broad : narrow wheels, nevertheless, are also in use. I have measured the ruts of a broad- wheeled waggon, full six feet, from out to out ; or about five feet and a half from middle to middle ; which is, perhaps, as good a width, for farm carriages, in general, as can be fixed upon, for a stan- dard.

Remarks. Broadwheeled waggons, with double shafts, the horses, of course, draw- ing more or less in the broad ruts, are not uncommon, in some parts of the Weald. These, however, for horses in double shafts, and with wheels onlv six inches broad, and running six feet wide, are far from con- venient. But they aptly suggest the id^a,

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 137

of adopting broader wheels, running at such a width, that oxeji,in long yokes, (or in wide shafts), might tread, with freedom, in broad, smooth, firm, rut-paths; without conten- tion; and with little injury to their feet. The practicability of this plan ought to be tried ; as it promises much, towards rendering oxen permanently useful, on the road.

In the plow of the Weald, I remarked nothing peculiarly excellent. It is a clumsy swing plow ; with a foot, or slider ; which is used, occasionally, at least.

The plow sledge is the only implement, now in use, on these vale lands, which struck me, with any degree of force, or interest. It is one of those simple inventions, which necessity, in the early stages of cultivation, happily struck cut. It is merely a forked branch, cut out of the topwood, of a large tree ; the two arms of the fork being of equal size, and six or eight inches, in dia- meter ; four to six feet long ; and, about the same width, at the points : a triangular frame, of similar dimensions, being no-jj raised, a foot or more, above this basement, upon which frame, the plow, or harrows are loaded. The draft is by the stem or

!}8 AGRICULTURE.

stump of the fork, which is left a foot oT more long, and in which a staple, hook, or other draft iron is fixed.

Remarks. This is not only the most natural sledge, but was. in the day of its invention, also a most simple road maker, in a soft, deep soiled country. It acts as the snow sledge of Norfolk; and tends to level and smooth the tracks, and footsteps, of the animals that draw it. And the ope- rations of plowing, and harrowing, being most in use, when the roads of such a coun- try are passing, from their soft to their firm state, this simple implement would give a smooth, level, carriage path, for summer travelling; and, even, at this dav, might be useful in smoothing horse paths, side roads, bv ways, and roads to grounds ; especially in a stifr' soiled country.

A roller, with a pole, for oxen, I ob- served, for the first time, I think, in this District.

The sliding yoke, of the Weald of Sus- sex, is entitled to a place in these registers; as it may frequently be found highly useful, in other districts, where the soil is tender ; and, most especially, in a wet season.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. i39

It is used in harrowing narrow ridges, when the soil is too moist, to be trodden, by oxen or horses, drawing upon the land. By means of a long yoke, oxen, abreast, draw in the interfurrows ; and, to accommodate the yoke to the varying widths of the ridges, it is formed with two pieces of wood, connected by two large staples, moving in long sliding mortices, which pass along the middle of each piece. The crowns of the staples reaching through the mortices, they are secured, in such a manner as to give free play to the sliders, by means of keys, or strong wooden pins ; each slider, or distinct part of the yoke, having a draft iron, a few inches from the inner bow hole; with a chain or trace passing from that, to the harrow, or pair of harrows, bending over the ridge of the narrow land, between the oxen.

PLAN OF MANAGEMENT. The objects, principally held in view, by the Weald farmers, are corn, and rearing cattle; with some portion of dairy produce.

The crops are wheat and oats, with some barley, some turneps, and many peas ; but no beans ! Much foul ley herbage; but scarcely any old grass land.

i4o AGRICULTURE.

In the center of the Weald, where wood- land produce is scarce, the furze has of late years been cultivated, as a crop in hus- bandry ; for fagots, for burning lime ; and is spoken of as a very profitable crop, on the weaker lands.*

The succession, which probably has been continued from the first cultivation of the District, is

Fallow,

Wheat,

Oats ; — now generally succeeded by

Ley herbage, as long as it will last; then

Oats, fallow, c\.c. &C. 6:c. This is probably the oldest, and is cer- tainly the worst, course of management, now in practice, in this Island: except that, in which three crops of corn are taken, be- tween the cleaning of the land, and Leying it, or letting it lav down to grass ; a practice which, I believe, is not entirely unknown to the husbandmen of the Weald of Sussex.

* Ctltivating furz£. The seed, I understand, b usually sown with oats, on foul exhausted land, at the rate of a gallon, an acre. It is a .ered, by wo-

men, in the neighbourhood, or is purchased, at the shops, in London.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 141

TILLAGE. The whole dependence of the Weald farmer rests, in this respect, on the summer fallow : and if it were made for oats and ley herbage, instead of wheat, it would be sufficient to keep the Weald lands, in cleanness and tillage.

It is conducted in different ways, and with great disparity of effect: principally owing, it would seem, to the

Time of breaking up; which is either be- fore, or after, the spring seed time ; and, in some sort, to

The application of the barrow. In one or more instances, I observed, in the early part of May, six horses and two drivers harrow- ing, with great difficulty, land that had been broken up, in autumn or winter, crossed presently after spring seedtime, and then lying in large rough clods, still green from the plow ! thus, by one wrong principle of management, and in one operation, (reckon- ing the wear and tear, as well as the ordi- nary expence of the team, and the injury done to the soil) sinking more, probably, than the rent of the land. In other in- stances, however, I observed, later in the month, fallows of a similar description ; but

i42 AGRICULTURE.

which (on principle, or through neglect, or by necessity, the weather being dry and the soil hard) still lay in rough clods, with scarcely a green blade left ; and which, at seedtime, were clean, as well worked gar- den grounds: while a much greater number, partly from breaking them up too late, and in part from improper treatment, still re- mained as foul, and almost as green, as the foul leys, or oat stubbles, which they suc- ceeded : — the difference, in this case, be- tween right and wrong management, being twice or three times the rent of the land.

In depositing, ridging, or laying up the soil, for a crop, the farmers of the Weald may claim some merit. The land, in ge- neral, is seen in narrow ridges, mostly of six or eight furrows, some of ten furrows ; with suitable cross trenches ; so as to keep the land free from surface water : a merit of no light consideration, in a low flat coun- try ; where the soil is of a clayey nature, and the subsoil also retentive.

MANURES. The extraneous manure of the Weald is lime ; which is burnt, chiefly from chalky fetched from the adjacent hills; — notwithstanding the shellstoney that has been

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 143

mentioned to be found in the District: but it is now become difficult and expensive to raise.

The southwest quarter of the Weald is supplied with chalk, in great quantity, from the West Downs of Sussex ; partly, by land carriage, of perhaps ten or twelve miles ; partly, by the Arun navigation. The norths east quarter has its supply, from the hills of Surrey. The pits, or more properly quar- ries, of Betch worth, have been worked, time immemorial ; the chalk having been, for- merly, and is still more or less, used in a raw unburnt state. The quantity which has been removed from these quarries is immense.

Lime kilns are seen, on every common, and in every waste corner, of the District ; each considerable farm having its own kiln.

The fuel is invariably fagots, of brush- wood, or furze ; except on the Arun navi- gation, where I observed one kiln, for coals. But the lime burnt with coals is, here, as in Kent, considered of an inferior quality.*

Remarks. The reason given for the dis- tinction, here, is, that it contains a certain

* See District of Maidstone, in Vol. I. p. 88.

144 AGRICULTURE.

quantity of coal ashes; which are not consi- dered, as a profitable manure, on the W lands; and, doubtless, they are not of equal value with lime ; and, in such proportion as the ashes fill up the bushel (which in measur- ing stone lime is not considerable) an abate- ment of price should be made; wood-burnt lime being free from drc

The method of burning lime with fagots will be described, in the District of Pet- worth ; where I had the best opportunity of observing it.

The method of applying this far-fetched, and, in many situations, very costly ma- nure, is disgraceful, to the husbandry of the Weald. The ordinary practice, in the sum- mer months, is to set it across the field, in load heaps, and thereto let it remain, naked, as it is thrown down, for weeks, perhaps months ; until their surfaces, at least, have returned to the very state of chalk, in which it was painfully fetched, from the distant hills. And, in autumn, presently before wheat seedtime, the practice is yet worse. It is then set on the land, in small heaps ; which, having lain naked until the lumps have fallen down into checkers, are spread over

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 145

the surface, among the clods; where it lies, for days, or weeks perhaps, until it has re- turned to its natural state ; without attempt- ing to profit by the only advantage obtained in burning it: namely, that of incorporating it with the soil, in a state of lime in fine powder. For different methods of apply- ing lime to land, see Yorkshire, Midland Counties, and West of England: also the District of Maidstone, in these Vo- lumes.

CATTLE. The number, which the Weald supports, is inconsiderable. In pass- ing through it, in the summer season, scarce- ly any pasture lands, much less pasturing stock, meet the eye ; unless on the commons, where young cattle, and a few mean starv- ling cows, are seen ; as will more fully ap- pear, under the State of Husbandry of the Weald.

The breed is that of West Sussex; which will be noticed, in the next division of the work, and which is here found in a dege- nerate state ; owing principally, perhaps, to the young stock being chiefly reared on the commons.

vol. 11. L

146 agriculture.

In the rearing of cattle, however, there is one point of practice which requires to be noticed ; and which, probably, saves the breed from a greater degree of degene- racy, than that in which it is found. The calves are reared at the teat ; — run loose with the cows: not on the commons, or in the fields, only, but in the farm yards, during the early spring months ; the pail being seldom, if ever, used, in the rearing of calves ; which are, here, reared, as lambs : a practice fa- vorable to breeding ; but ruinous to the dairy.

The sizes of dairies are small ; six or seven cows being a full sized dairy.

The little dairy produce that is col- lected is butter : which, I believe, is wholly consumed within the District, or in the market towns that border upon it. The mystery of cbeesemaking, is not known, in the Weald of Sussex ; highly favorable, as its soils naturally are, to that useful and profitable art.

SHEEP can scarcely be ranked as a species of stock, of the Weald ; unless on the wide commons which are found in some parts of it.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 147

The breed, seen on these commons in summer, and on the stubbles, and ley grounds, in the winter months, resembles that of the mountains, and commons, of Cornwall and Devonshire ; except in that their wool appears to be of a coarser na- ture. They are probably the aboriginal or ancient stock of the adjacent hills ; debased in their size, form, and wool, by the baseness of their pasture ; which, whether on the commons, or in the inclosures, is ill suited to this delicate, dryland species of domestic animals.

The STATE OF HUSBANDRY. As an apology for passing over many general heads of the arable management, and the culture of individual crops, without notice; as well as for presuming to offer the fol- lowing hints, for the improvement of a dis- trict, in which I have not resided; I will, here, bring together a few notices, that I find in my Journals, respecting the prevail- ing practice, in the year 1791 ; and which, I fear, has undergone no radical alteration, since that time.

March 29. Western parts of the Weald. " The whole country may be said to be in L2

I48 AGRICULTURE.

a state at arable, or wood Laid; though much of it is best iitted for permanent grass. The commons and wide lanes are in fine sward. How well the whole District is adapted to breeding, and the dairy. At present, it is disgusting to ride over, and most discourag- ing to farm in. Even at seven or eight shillings an acre, the farmers remain poor, and their farms under stocked. There is, indeed, little appearance of stock, of any kind, in the country.

April 3. Horsham to Dorking. What an immense tract of land, apparently mis- applied. What herds of cattle might be reared, and dairy produce collected, without perhaps any diminution of its present pro- duce of corn. At present, there appears to be no stock ! The soil is of course tired out, with an endless succession of arable crops; and without any dung to refresh it.

April 30. West end of the Weald. Rode several miles, without seeing a head of stock, or a person to speak to. A few scattered cottages, on commons and in wide lams; and. here and there, a mean looking farm house. How so much arable land is worked is astonishing ; but it is evidently much

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 149

underworked. The Weald, at present, is a poor country ; but appears to be rich, in natural advantages.

May 2. Towards the center of the Weald. Nine tenths, or nineteen twentieths, of the cleared lands, are occupied by arable crops : mostly corn ; but with some cultivated her- ; which is chiefly ray grass; weak, thin, and spindling ; yet, poor and thin as it is, the whole is now shut up for mowing! No appearance of a pasture ground, in the the country ! except the worst of the weedy leys, — (worn out, by constant mowing), — which are now undergoing the first plow- ing for fallows. Scarcely a head of stock, in my whole ride. Except a few halfstarv- ed cows, and sheep, on commons ! The prevailing crops are oats and raygrass, — for the support of cart horses ! And even the value of the little wheat, that is grown, is much of it sunk in the expence of carrying it to market. What a field for improve- ment !

The roads of the Weald are the worst in the kingdom. Except in some few parts, they remain in their natural state : formed of pure clay, — worn into hollows and

i5o AGRICULTURE. .

sloughs: roughnesses as high as the horses' knees ; and ruts to the axle. With, how- ever, here and there, a few hundred yarns of good stone road ; which appears to be* now under extension. But it goes on so slowly, it may be some ages before it be finished. Not half a load of materials can be dragged to the parts now making. There has been already as many stones, and as much labor, expended, on the road towards ( ireen (not yet a quarter finished) as would have made a broad firm waggon path, the whole way.

May 15. The same. Fallows still break- ing up, from crowfoot leys ! One instance of cows and calves in a raygrass pasture. The raygrass in full head ! The stock, doubtless, starved in the yards, while the grass was spoiling in the field !

May 2 1 . Northwest quarter of the Weald. The crops — wheat, oats, and raygrass ; with some peas; much fallow, and some barren leys. — A few small old grass inci- sures; and extensive commons. Large tracts of woodlands, and many furze grounds. The only stock observed in the inclosed grounds (in riding ten or twelve miles within the

WEALD OF SUSSEX. i5i

area of the Weald) was one worthless cow and calf! Some young cattle and a few sheep appeared on the commons. Saw not a team at work (except one at some dis- tance) nor scarcely a human face; unless in the village of Kirdford.

June 24. Area of the Weald. Beginning to mow poor thin weedy raygrass leys. Not a quarter of a crop ; and that over- grown. Some attempts at perennial ley. The weedy tall rubbish still standing to be mown ! Two fields, as white as limed fal- lows, with the full blown flowers of theoxeye daisy. The soil, no doubt, having been fouled and exhausted by corn crops, was laid down, in that foul exhausted state, and has been mown, year after year, ever since. Yet the men of the Weald may argue, from this specimen, that the Weald lands are in- capable of being brought to a state of pro- fitable grass.

October 5. Many fields now white with lime, — spread out of small heaps, and lying in coarse granules, unbroken, and unmixed! Dung, in like manner, standing, week after week, in unspread hillocks ! and, in some cases, on fallows, now lying in the rough

AGRICULTURE.

un worked ;ey ought to have

I in, tue latter end of Mav, or beginnii June. What an ill mana

Ho v much unproductive land .t contains."

[PROVEMENTS SUGGESTED, k own, in speaking of the roads rrict, that a want of facility, in work of carriage, is a great bar to its improvement ; rendering the labor of bringing in manure, and carrying out pro- duce, difficult and expensive.

But, in a low, flat, deepsoiled country, iiute, in a manner^ .Js, and of ma-

ils to form them with, water car- riage aptly presents itself; and it has not altogether escaped attention.

In 1791, the navigation of the A: had, then, recently been extended to New- bridge, below the junction of its two prin- cipal branches, near the village of Green, .ids the center of the Sussex part of the Id. What appeared to be wanting, . farther extension to Horsham: either by the windings of the eastern branch of

Arun, or across the more central j of the Vale, by Billingshurst : and from

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 153

Horsham, through the Surrey part of the Weald, to the chalk quarries of Betchworth, and down the valley of the Mole, to the market of Dorking.

The western branch of the Arun pre- sents another line of extension, equally ob- vious ; to pass through the northwestern quarter of the vale, to Godalmin ; there, to join theWev navigation ; thus opening a na- vigable communication between the Thames and the English Channel.

By means of such easv communication, the entire Vale might be supplied with manure, and its products of corn and tim- ber be carried off, at a moderate expence, to the best markets : besides furnishing a favorable opportunity of bringing road ma- terials, into the interior of the District.

Since 1791, the Earl of Egremont, whose patriotism and benevolence flow in every direction, has made the Rother, which falls into the Arun, near Arundel, navigable to Midhurst ; and has it in view, to conduct a canal, from the Rother navigation, by Pet- worth, and along the western margin of the Weald, to Godalmin. This would render

i54 AGRICULTURE.

the water carriage of the Weald, still more complete.

The probable improvements that have occurred to me, in traversing the vale lands now under view, respecting roads, are of a fourfold kind ; according to the inten- tion of the given road, and the degree of improvement required, to answer that in- tention.

The present flat lanes are improveable, by two obvious means, without changing the form of their surfaces. These are by doing away the dangerous quicksprings, which frequently occur, on the hangs of hills, by means of under-drains ; and re- moving the deeper sloughs, that occur in the bottoms, by means of trunks, or arches ; to convey the surface water, to the nearest drain, or ditch.

The next stage of improvement would be, to gather up a wide ridge, or barrel road, along the middle of the lane, with the plow ; raising it sufficiently at the crown, to shoot off rain water; and smoothing the surface from time to time, especially in the spring, with the harrow and roller: thus obtaining,

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 155

at a small expence, an easy summer road, for carriages.

The third stage appears to be that of running a waggon path, along the middle of the plowed ridge, or barrel ; with dila- tions, or double paths, at the bends of the road, or in the most conspicuous and con- venient places, for carriages to pass each other ; and with lines of posts on either side, to confine them to the path.

For the more public roads, a firm solid pathway, seven or eight feet wide, and strong enough to bear laden carriages, would be required. But, for private or by roads, a much less expensive work would be found highly beneficial. The method of forming the simple waggon paths, here re- commended, is described in the Midland Counties. They consist of three lines of hard materials : one for each wheel ; with one, between them, for the horses to draw upon.

Had either of these methods, of forming winter roads, been adopted; instead of attempting to make, at once, wide barrel roads, of hard materials, fetched perhaps several miles, the very materials that have

r56 AGRICULTURE.

been buried in the mud, in making these attempts, on the outskirts of tl .net,

would have formed sound, firm, waggon paths, across every part of its area ; or, at least, along the most public roads.

If, in the Weald of Sussex, or in country, where it i ble to work <

on the road, in yokes, or dot: the \ of carriages (as has been already

suggested) were n :iough to form

convenie.it paths, for oxen to tread in, and placed at such distant ich other, as

to make them convenient for oxen abreast, to draw in. the a _e, in a public as

well as a private Light, might ..reat.

To accomplish it is an object highly worthy of invention.

The la pf improvement, of the

most public roads, would be thftt ruling wide 5ARj. i)s, of hard materials.

ried from the quarries, or the canals, i of tl gon patbs; beginning with the

parts when I were found to be most wanted : thus, advancing progressively, from the lowest i lighest degree of impr

thout taking one step in vain.

Another public improvement, by which

WEALD OF SUSSEX. i57

the Weald might profit, is that of inclosing

THE COMMONABLE LANDS, which IlOW OCCU- PY no inconsiderable portion of its surface, and which are mostly of a quality, that will make ample returns, for the expences of in- closing and cultivation.

And another, which is more or less re- quisite, in every vale district, is a commis- sion of shores, with inquests, in the several parishes, or districts, which it com- prizes ; so as to remove every unnecessary obstruction to running waters ; and thereby give each individual an opportunitv of free- ing his lands, in the shortest and speediest manner, from superfluous moisture.

The private improvements, of which the Weald of Sussex is evidently capable, are numerous and great : exceeding, I think, those of any cultivated district, I have exa- mined. Indeed it appears to I lat a

TOTAL CHANGE of the GENERAL ECONOMY

of the District is requisite to its g im-

provement : namely, that of converting the principal part of its arable inclosures, to pasture and woodlands, and its pastured commons, or the more valuable parts of them, to arable inclosures.

i58 AGRICULTURE.

To convey my ideas, with respect to the UClosed lands, in the clearest manner I am able, it will be requisite to divide them, into three classes ; namely,

The deep?r better soils, which require only cleaning, to render them fit to be coil- ed to a state of perennial herbage.

The soils that require to be deepened fore they can be properly brought to that state. And

The zceak unproductive lands, thai been mentioned, as having been c lea reef from thestateof woodland, by mistake; or through circumstances that do not now exist.

The method of leying, turfing, or c ing arable lands has been so often treated of, io these Registers, that it requires littk- explanation, here.*

The broad basis, on which its ■ chiefly depends, is that of cleansing the soil from weeds, through the means c: which, at the same time, by exposing it to the atmosphere, will render it friable, and every way fit, to encourage the tender fibr.

:;fant herbage.

K.9 HIRE, GlOCESTERSHIRE, &C. ; •

Weald 01 Ku>t.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 159

The choice of herbage depends on the na- ture of the land. The greater the num- ber of distinct species, provided they are of valuable quality, the better chance there is of quickly obtaining a close turf, — in every season of the year. What I should recom- mend, for the Weald of Sussex, would be a small quantity, as one to two gallons of clean-winnowed ravgrass ; a similar quan- tity of the meadow soft grass (holcus lana- tus) or Yorkshire hay seeds ; and of the dwarf poe, or meadow grass (poa annua) , or Suffolk grass ; with a like portion of the meadow or tall fescue (festuca elatior), if the seeds of it can be procured : also three to six pounds of white clover ; with similar quantities of trefoil, and ribgrass (plantago lanceolata), all of which are to be had at the shops. And besides these, a man who has industry, and the spirit of enterprize ia his composition, would collect, and culti- vate, such species of valuable herbage, as he sees flourishing, on the best pieces of the few old grass lands, now to be found in the Weald, and add their seeds to the mixture: even though the quantity were small ; for if the soil and situation should prove grate-

160 AGRICULTURE.

ful to them, as doubtless they would, their increase would be certain ; while thosj whose seeds were sown, in greater quan- tity, would dwindle, and give place to them. The chief thing, to be desired, seems to be that of supplying the land with a variety of species ; in order that such as are best suited, to the soil and situation, may have a hiir opportunity of gaining a footing ; and this can never be done, with so good effect, as in the first instance ; when the soil is wholly unoccupied, and when each has a fair chance, to establish itself.

To do equal justice to the several species, the manures, which are used for young her- bage, should either be spread on the surface, or be mixed evenly w ith the soil ; and ought not to be buried with the last plowing for the crop. For, in this case, the strong, deep-rooting plants gain an advantage: and a great art, in producing perennial her- bage, is to encourage the finer grasses ; without which a close turf cannot be ob- tained.

With the same view, the young plant> should be kept closely pastured, until the tender species are fully established. One

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 161

crop of hay, by encouraging the strong plants, and smothering or checking the weaker species, is capable of doing irrepa- rable injury, for years to come ; according to the size of the crop, and the age at which it is cut. Pasturing close, with sheep, from the time of the first shoot in earlv spring, and with the same, or heavier stock, (after the land will bear them) throughout the summer, during the first three years, appears to me, from many instances of experience, and numberless of observation, essential to common good management.

The proper stock, for such young grass grounds, on the tender moist lands of the Weald, would be ewes and lambs, to be fatted in the course of the summer.

At the end of three years, or whenever the required sward shall be fully established, the dairy appears to be the most natural object, to be pursued, on a large scale, on the cool moist lands, under notice ; which resemble, in soil and situation, the best cheese lands of Glocestershire and North Wiltshire, so nearly, that there can be little doubt of their eligibility, in that intention. See Glocestershire, Vol. II. p. 94.

vol. 11. M

r62 AGRICULTURE.

The second class of the Weald lands are, by far, the most difficult to improve. Their present unproductiveness appears to be owing, chiefly, to a closeness of tex- ture, and a want of depth, in the cultivated mould.

That tillage, properly conducted, and long enough pursued, would go a consider- able way, towards removing those evils, there is li t tie doubt. Lime applied to the fresh raised soil ; and any gross vegetable produce, plowed under, would greatly assist. If, by any easy process, part of the soil could be burnt, and spread over, and mixed with the rest, it is highly probable the whole might be thereby meliorated.*

The improvement of the third class of Weald lands is obvious, and easy. Clean the soil, by a fallow, broken up in autumn, or early winter, and sow it, the ensuing au- tumn, with acorns, ashen keys, or any other seeds of trees, more desireable ; with or without a crop of corn. Fence securely, and leave the rest to nature, — until the plants require thinning. The success of this summary way of propagating woodlands is * See Yorkshire, Article Sodburning.

WEALD OF SUSSEX. 163

seen, in the practice of Warwickshire, in the Midland Counties.

The right management of the common lands appears, to me, equally obvious. Such as are too weak for corn, or profitable herbage, inclose securely ; cut down the brushwood, if any ; and plant tree seeds in the vacancies. The rest, bring into a course of arable management, as fast as propriety will allow; for having never produced corn, thev would doubtless continue to throw out, under judicious management, abundant crops, for many years. Where trees or strong bushes abound, cut them off, within the surface, and let the land remain, in a state of grass, until they be decayed. For remarks, at length, on reclaiming forest lands ; see Yorkshire.

These observations, on the improvement of the Weald of Sussex, are the fuller, as they are applicable, not to this particular district, only ; but, more or less, to every vale country. I bring them forward, here; because many of them actually rose, in exa- mining the lands that are the present sub- ject of discussion ; and there is no other district, in the Island, to which the remarks, M2

164 AGRICULTURE.

here offered, can be so fully applied. I am of opinion, that, were the alterations, here proposed, judiciously carried into effect, the rental value of the lands would be nearly doubled ; and this at a small expence, com- pared with the greatness of the improve- ment.

THE

DISTRICT

OF

PETWORTH.

BESIDE making the excursions, men- tioned, in the introductory remarks, to the Valley of Farnham, I had a favor- able opportunity, while I had the honor of residing at Pet worth, of looking over its environs, and examining the District, which is now the subject of consideration.

The SITUATION of the small tract of country, which I distinguish by the Dis- trict of Petworth, is between the west- ern quarter of the Weald, or Vale Lands, last described, and that part of the Chalk Hills of Sussex, called the West Downs ; extending, eastward, to Pulborongh, and

166 THE DISTRICT

westward, to Midiiurst ; where it meets with the heaths, or morelands of Sussex ; and the fertile and beautiful valley, which shoots, further westward, from Midhurst, towards Petersfield ; the District, more im- mediately under view, being chiefly a dila- tion of the same valley ; down which the Rother falls, with a gentle current, and joins the Arun, in the southeastern quarter of the District.

The ELEVATION of the lower part of the valley is inconsiderable ; the tide, I believe, flows within the District ; and the south side of the river lies altogether low. On the north side, on which Pet worth stands, the country rises, with an easy as- cent, to a desireable elevation ; being a chain of uplands, which divide the valley of the Rother, from the vale lands of the Weald.

The LANDS of this District, cl >n-

nected as they arc with those of the Weald, are very different in their nature. The soil, which is most prevalent, and which cha- racterizes the District, is a light sandy loam ; resting on a mass of sand, which hardens, as its depth increases ; until it assumes the character of a gritstone., or soft sandy

OF PETWORTH. 167

rock ; in which a few egg-shaped, or po- tatoe-form pebbles. — hard smooth stones, of extraordinary size, — are bedded.

Remark. Similar stones are observable, in other instances of deep sandy substrata ; — a circumstance which appears to be entitled to the geologist's attention ; and their com- position and formation may not be unworthy of philosophical inquiry.

In some parts of the north side of the District, the soil is more consistent, and the subsoil a sandy loam, or brick earth ; form- ing land of a most desireable quality.

On the south side of the river, the lands are less uniform ; the substrata being, in some cases, retentive ; producing cold weak land ; with plots of clayey woodland soil ; perfectly resembling the Weald lands 5 and are doubtless detached parts, that have been torn from them.

At the foot of the chalk hill, which on this side exposes a steep broken cliff- ru^s a narrow vein of land, of a peculiar nature ; — a close, waxey clay ; mostly of a dark lead color, while moist ; but dries to a lighter, chalky appearance ; and is probably a com- pound of dark blue clay, and chalk. It is

i6S THE DISTRICT

singularly fertile to wheat ; in seasons, when it can be properly tilled, and seeded. Its provincial name, in this part of Sussex, is " Maam": a name which is probably of ancient application. At the foot of Maam- scot Hill, in Kent, is a similar line of soil; and it is common, perhaps, to situations of a similar nature ; as will be shewn, in speak- ing: of the chalk hills of the Southern Counties.

In some parts, this vein of land is so nar- row, as to be contained within the width of a single line of iields ; but, in a sort of bay, formed by an indenture of the Chalk Hills, including parts of the parishes o'i Sutton, Bignor, and Bury, it spreads, from half a mile, to near a mile, in width.

The subsoil, or understratum, of this line of soil, is generally a calcareous rock, of varying quality. Nevertheless, the soil is mostly of a retentive nature ; requiring to be laid up, in narrow lands ; and, when in a state of neglect, is liable to be over-run with coltsfoot (tussilago farfara:) a proof of the coldness of its nature ; owing, per- haps, to the waters, which are absorbed by the Chalk Hills and filtered through them,

OF PET WORTH. 169

being checked, bv a bed of clay or silt ; as well as bv their own retentiveness.

The whole of the District under veiw is in a STATE OF INCLOSURE; except a few small heathlets, and commons ; and except a small remnant of common field, on the Maam soil.

The PRESENT PRODUCE of the Dis- trict is chiefly corn, and other arable crops ; with some extent of '• brook lands," or marshes, at the conflu x of the two rivers ; and a few narrow meadows, on the sides of the Rother ; but with very little upland sward, or grass land. The natural woodlands are inconsiderable ; but the want of coppice wood is, in some measure, supplied by cul- tivated furze grounds.

A country of this description can, in it- self, have little claim to ORNAMENT. The oftscape, however, is generally good. The views from Pet worth Park, — which equally commands the Weald, the District under notice, the rugged front of the wild broken heaths that have been described, and the strongly featured steeps of the Hills of Sussex and Surrey, lengthening to a very great extent, — though they are seldom beau-

170

THE DISTRICT

tifiil, arc frequently grand ; well according with the magnificence of the house, and

With the extensive domains that attach to it. In the management of ESTATES, I met uithnothingofexcellence,intheDistrict un- der view. And its management of WOOD- LANDS is similar to that which has been described, in the Weald. I therefore pass on to

FARMS,

AND THEIR

MANAGEMENT.

THE FARMS are of good size. Many of them below the middle class: some rising to two or three hundred pounds, a year. Their characteristic is arable; except towards the cast end of the District, where the marshes are joined with the arable lands.

OF PETWORTH. 171

FARMERS. The District, in general, is occupied b\r tenants ; several of whom are wealthy, and intelligent. Nevertheless, there are very few districts of the Island, at this day, in which a larger portion of ill placed prejudice, still remains, than in the northwestern parts of Sussex.

BEASTS OF DRAFT. Opposite as are the natures of the lands of the Weald, and of this District, the species, and proportion, of working stock are the same : namely, horses and oxen, in nearly equal numbers. And the only difference, in the manner of working them, lies in one horse, less, being used in the plow team, here, than in the Weald ; except that, here, oxen are more commonly used, in plowing, than they are in the Weald ; and, what is inexplicable, as many, or a greater number, are used, to plow light free sandy soil, in the neigh- bourhood of Petvvorth, as to plow the strong heavy lands of the Weald ! I have seen eight oxen, moving a snail's pace, in stirring a light loamy fallow, which any two of them, with a proper implement, might have done, faster, and better* Four oxen,

* Nov. 27, 1797. Since the above was written,

i;2 AGRICULTURE.

and two horses, to lead them, I have seen employed, in the same unprofi table manner.

IMPLEMENTS. The waggons run the same most eligible width, here, as in the Weald ; namely, five feet and a half, from middle to middle of the ruts. I have seen them in an excellent form : wide, low, convenient, farm carriages.

The plow in use, here, is of a singular construction ; and is common, if not pecu- liar, to the west of Sussex : I have seen it used, by individuals, in other districts, par- ticularly in Surrey ; but do not recollect to have observed it, in common use, any where but in West Sussex.

It has a rising beam, like that of the Nor- folk plow, and the turn wrest plow of Kent ; but with only one small wheel ; which runs upon the land, or soil to be turned ; nearly in a line before the coulter.

An advantage of this plow is that of giving room, under the beam, for stubble or weeds, which may rise before the coulter ;

this assertion has been more than verified. In a prize plowing, held at Petworth, a few days ago, two Sussex oxen, plowed an acre of firm clover ley, for wheat, a full depth, in less than six hours.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 173

and to a lazy, or an aukward plowman, a wheel is convenient ; especially in plowing stubborn or stony lands, or in very shallow soils, where a nice regulation is required, as it frequently is, in Norfolk. But, for the free loamy lands under notice, a light swing plow in the hands of a man who knew how to set and hold it, would, I am of opinion, be more eligible, and more convenient to the plowman, than the tottering unsteady implement, in use. The wheel is liable to be raised, or turned aside, by every clod or protuberance, it meets with ; while the top- heaviness, caused by the height of the beam, adds to the unsteadiness. Its best recom- mendation is the lightness and elegance of its appearance.

The OBJECTS of husbandry are chiefly corn ; and early lambs, for the London market.

The CROPS, in cultivation, are zcbeat, and barley; with some oats and peas ; many turneps, (but jw potatoes) much rye and tares, for spring food, as well as for soiling, or ver- dage, in the stable ; and with a portion, but small, of cultivated herbage; and this is sel- dom continued, more than one year.

i- AGRICULTURE.

The SUCCESSION of these crops, with regard to each other, is not reduced to any regular established order ; each manager going by his own judgment, and the parti- r circumstances that occur on his farm : and (as has been already suggested) on a farm, merely arable, without any regular stock establishment, which requires a fore- cast, beyond the passing year, such fortui- tous management is more eligible, than where a fixed number, and a regular suc- cession, of livestock are kept up.

TILLAGE. The unpardonable waste of labor, that is made, in this part of the Sus- sex management, equal no doubt, in a course of years, to the rent of the lands, has b.en mentioned ; and I have not been able to detect, here, as in Kent, any counterba- lance, to make up for the loss.

The only point of management, with respect to tillage, that met my eye, in West Sussex, as being entitled to particular no- tice, is that of TREADING THE LIGHTER LANDS, WITH THE PLOW HORSES, when

turning the seed furrow in a dry season. Instead of letting three horses, at length, draw in the last made plow furrow, as is

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 175

customary, and in most cases proper, they are made to go by the side of it, and thereby to tread, and compress, the line of soil they are turning.

This simple principle (for such it may be called) though not peculiar to West Sussex, is not sufficiently attended to, in general ; but might well be adopted, in every light land district, in a dry season ; — the advantage might, in many cases, more than counter- balance, even the expence of an additional horse and a driver, in countries where two horses, abreast, are the ordinary team.

MANURE. The species, and manage- ment, of manures are much the same, here, as in the Weald ; except that, in the Dis- trict under view, marl is more or less used ; and except that, in one instance, I saw the moory earth of a heathy common, burnt, in large heaps, for manure.

The marl is either an adulterate chalk, found near the foot of the chalky steeps of the West Downs ; lying between the chalk rock and the Maam soil ; partaking of them both ; in truth, a marl of the first quality ; — or a sort of blue mud, or clay, dug out of the area of the District; particularly, I

176 AGRICULTURE.

believe, on the south side of the river. This is said to have been set on, with good effect ; while the former is spoken of, as of less value: whereas, the white is more than three fourths of it calcareous ; while the blue does not contain ten grains, percent, of calcareous matter ! *

Remarks. Surely, the immense mounds of chalk rubbish, which lie, as a nuisance, at the feet of the Houghton quarries (see the Southern ChalkHills) on the imme- diate brink of the Arun navigation, might be turned to a profitable purpose, — as ma- nure ; particularly, on the banks of the navigable rivers, or canals ; not only in the District, now under view, but in the Weald.

* Analysis ok Marls. One hundred grains of the white marl of Duncton yielded sevcutysix grains of calcareous matter ; leaving twentyfour of an earthy re- siduum. By other two trials, the proportions were, in one, seventycight and a half of calcareous matter, with twenty-one and a half of residue; and, in the other, eighty grains of calx, and twenty of residuum.

One hundred grains of the blue marl of Hardham yielded eight grains and a half of calcareous earth ; with ninetyone and a half of grey, smooth, tenacious silt.

In this District, an impure fullersearth is like- wise found : and red ochre of a good quality.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. i--

A principal use, some will say the only one, of burning chalk, and other calcareous substances, for manure, is that of reducing them to a state of line powder ; in order that they may blend, more intimately, with the soil ; and, under this idea, even the harder limestones have been pounded, at a great expence, in countries where fuel is scarce. The late Lord Kaims had a watermill erect- ed, for this purpose, on the banks of Loch Rannoch, in the Highlands of Scotland.

Whether reducing hard limestones, by mechanic force, has ever answered the ex- pence, I cannot say. It is, nevertheless, very probable, that chalk would pay, am- ply, for the operation. The common bark mill — the Herefordshire cider mill — a stone wheel running in a stone trough — would, I apprehend, crush several loads, a day ; especially of the broken materials, here spoken of. Two plain cylinders, working against each other, on the principle of the sugar mill, and the oat bruiser, might be found more expeditious and effective. If fixed horizontally, and placed against a rising ground, with a road and shedded platform, on the upper side, to lay up the

VOL. II. N

178 AGRICULTURE.

dry chalk, and with a pit or vault, below, to receive the reduced materials, there to be skreencd, and kept dry, for use, the ex- pence, especially if the cylinders (and per- haps the skreen) were turned by water, or by wind, could scarcely fail of being repaid, by the more immediate, and increas- ed action, of the manure.

This, however, by way of hint, to those who may conceive themselves sufficiently interested, to give the plan a fair trial. The flints, with which chalks more or less abound, appear to be, theoretically, an ob- stacle to success; and, in moving the rough chalk, they should doubtless be thrown aside. Perhaps, smooth rollers, of a suit- able diameter, might reject them ; and, if they were set somewhat dipping end way, as an inclined plane, the flints might thus be got rid of: if not, the skreen or sieve might separate them, as well as the un- crushed knobs of chalk, which had passed with them. I am strongly impressed with the idea, that the trial should be made, and therefore make no apology for bringing the subject forward, in this incidental manner ; especially, as I know no place, where it

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 179

could be made, with a greater prospect of extensive benefit.

Lime. On the demesne farm of Pet- worth, I had a favorable opportunity of attending to the method of burning chalk with fagots.

In speaking of the Weald, I mentioned it, as a practice of that District, for every far- mer, who holds lands of any considerable extent, to burn his own lime. I have ob- served no public kilns, either in the Weald, or in the District now under view.

The kiln, on which I had the opportu- nity of making my observations, was the ordinary kiln of the country : not only the form, but the size, of these private kilns be- ing very similar ; and probably of long standing. The form is that of a cask. The diameter of the top and bottom eight feet, in the middle nine feet ; the depth ten feet, the walls are of stone, lined with bricks, and three feet and a half, in thickness. The floor is irregular. The area is dishing, or hollow, to receive the ashes ; a border, or u bench," of strong masonry, about eighteen inches wide, occupying the outer circle; beinej, in reality, a foundation offset, of that N2

180 AGRICULTURE.

width ; leaving, however, a gap or opening, on one side, for the eye, or mouth, of the kiln ; which is two feet and a half, in width, and four feet or upward, in height.

The mystery of burning lime, with fa- gots, in a kiln of this construction, lies chiefly in "setting the kiln"; which is con- sidered as a thing of so much difficulty, as to render " lime burning: " a distinct calling. Ordinary farm laborers have no pretensions to the art. The man, whose practice I saw, was not only a " lime-burner," bv trade, but by birth and descent ; the art having been practiced, by his forefathers, for four generations ; and he himself had passed the middle time of life. These cir- cumstances, alone, prove the antiquity of the practice : indeed, no one, I believe, pre- tends to ascertain its origin, in this coun- try.

The art may briefly be said to consist, in building an oven, with chalk, at the bottom of the kiln; and then filling the upper part of it, judiciously, with the same material.

The workman begins, by setting middle- sized blocks, upon the bench, or foundation offset, above described ; carrying up the wall.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 181

nearly perpendicularly, but somewhat lean- ing inward, three or four feet high. The arch, or crown of the oven, is then turn- ed, with the largest of the blocks (some of them containing, more than a cubical foot of chalk) choosing them, for this purpose, long and narrow, and placing the small ends, inward, or downward ; being careful to bind, with small pieces ; so as to secure, firmly, each ring of the dome, before the superincumbent ring be attempted : thus forming a flat dome, without a center, and without cement.

The dome being secured (at the height of five or six feet from the floor) large blocks are continued to be set, by hand, over the crown of the arch, in the middle parts of the kiln ; in order to induce the fire to find its way, upward ; the smaller pieces being thrown in, at random, round the outsides ; and over the upper surface of the large pieces. But no rubbish, or even fine chalk, is used, to cover up the kiln ; as is frequently done, when coals are used, as fuel. In the practice under notice, the top of the kiln is finally covered, with large flat blocks ; which, being there only par-

181 AGRICULTURE.

tially burnt, are returned to the kiln, at the next burning-

Each kiln, filled in this open loose man- ner, takes four large waggon loads of chalk, and employs a man, with a boy or youth as an assistant, one day, to fill, or set it.

The difficulty of the art seems to lie in turning the arch, or dome, strong enough to bear the superincumbent burden, during the intenseness of the heat ; yet open enough, to permit the flames, to pass freely upward. If the draught be checked, above, they fly out, unprofitable, at the mouth of the kiln. Hence, the necessity of setting the central parts, over the crown of the dome, with large blocks, and by hand, so as to promote a sufficient draught, without giving too much liberty to the flames ; which ought to spread, as equably as possible, to every part of the furnace.

The fuel, in the case observed, was small fagots, of furze and broom, which had been stacked up dry, near the kiln. A thousand cf these fagots are the ordinary allowance, for burning a kiln, of the size described. They are burnt, as fagots in an oven ; the fire being managed, in the same, or a si mi-

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 183

lar manner. Two men attend the burning ; which, usually, is continued about twenty- four hours ; more or less, according to cri- teria, which practice points out.

The established price, for setting the kiln and burning, is ten shillings. Reckoning the fagots, at the kiln, to be worth five shil- lings, a hundred,* the whole expence, of fuel and labor, is three pounds. A kiln, of this size, turns out seven cart loads of lime ; estimated at eight chaldrons, of thirty- two bushels each. Hence, on this calcula- tion, the expence of burning chalk, with fagot wood, is seven shillings and sixpence, a chaldron ; or near three pence a bushel. The cost of the chalk depends on the dis- tance of the kiln from the quarry, — at which a shilling, each waggon load, is paid to the quarrymen, and sixpence (I think) to the lord of the soil. The price of lime, at Pet- worth, is seven pence, a bushel. +

* The price of fagots, on the ground they grow on, is three shillings and sixpence, the hundred, of five score.

+ Analyses of the Duncton chalks. By four separate trials, with "white chalks" (which are burnt for manure) of different quarries, and taken at different

1 84 AGRICULTURE.

The shelstone, or marble, of the Weald is burnt (or rather has usually been burnt, verv little of it being now raised, for lime) in a similar manner.* The received idea, here, (at least, in the mind of the hereditary lime burner, whose practice I particularly observed ) is, that stone lime, however good it mav be for grass land, is not equal to chalk lime, for corn; as it "brings weeds and rubbish;" while '• chalk lime cleans the land/' It is almost needless to add, that be believes wood-burnt lime to be incompa- rably better, for any thing, than lime burnt from the same material, with coal> '

From the foregoing sketch of burning le with fagot wood, in the Southern

•'.•in a were, from three to six and a half, percent ; the upper strata being the pur.

Bv two trials, with tl£rq which is burr

ccnunty the residua I twentyseven

g, percer.t ! Yet the lime burnt from this fiul

teemed of an extraordinar , by stone

masons. The indissoluble matter is an extremely fine

tenacious

x marble, or Pet worth STONY. By the marine acid, an hundred grains yielded ninety t wo gTainsoi calcareous matter, and eight grains of an earthy residuum.

i See District of Maidst W

of Sussex, tor similar Of

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 185

Counties, it is pretty evident, that, notwith- standing the facility with which it is there executed, it would be hazardous to attempt it, in another country, as a new thing, without having a person, practised in the art, to set it on foot. The principle is evi- dent, but the difficulty of turning the dome, to stand with certainty, would seem to re- quire considerable experience.

This difficulty, it is probable, suggested what appears to be a valuable improvement, in the art ; and which I had lately an op- portunity of examining, in the District of Maidstone.* Instead of one capacious overly two straight arches are turned, in the bottom of the kiln. For this method, there is a " middle bench/' as well as the side benches, of the West Sussex kiln. In that I examined, the middle bench was about two and a half feet wide; and the archway, on either side of it, nearly the same width. The arches, (being raised, some two feet above the benches) are turned (part after part, by a man standing in the bottom of the kiln) with three rough blocks of chalk, bearing a resemblance (accidentally, or as-

* See Vol. I. page 89.

i86 AGRICULTURE.

sisted by a tool) to the ordinary key stone of an arch: a work which is performed with little difficulty; and which the roughest stone mason would, anywhere, easily exe- cute. The filling of the kiln, over the arches, is the same as over the oven : care being taken to spread the fire, equally, through every part : which is more easily and effec- tually done, by two, than by one, fire- place.

These double-arch kilns may be burnt either with wood, or with coals. That which I saw, near Maidstone, had iron grates thrown across, between the benches ; on which coals, brought up the Medway, were burnt.

It is here to be observed, that, in the aid of Surrey. I have seen bricks, and tilts, burnt in kilns, of the first description. The oven, or dome, being formed, with chalk, bricks are set upon it, to receive the fiercest heat, and, on these, tiles. The three materials being, bv this means, conveniently, and accuratelv burptj with fagot wood.

On the other general heads of the arable management, I collected nothing, in this District, that requires to be noticed,

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. i87

here. Nor, in the culture of particular crops, did I find any thing, which is new to these Registers ;

Except an instance of sowing WHEAT, after turneps, without plowing ! This in- stance occurred in the practice of one of the principal farmers of the District. Part of a piece of turnep ground was plowed, and sowed, in the usual way ; the rest was only harrowed, or " dragged ;" the seed sown ; and covered with fine harrows. The consequence, as related, was a fine crop, and free from smut ; while the part, plowed, was not only an inferior crop, but was smutty.

This loosely reported incident, however, only suggests the idea, that light and ab- sorbent soils, which are already in a state of cleanness and tilth > may be injured by a seed plowing ; especially in a dry season.

Another instance of practice, however, is well deserving of notice. I saw a very good crop of wheat, growing on very light land. It was sown in September ; the surface im- mediately dunged ; the dung harrowed in, as a top dressing ; and afterwards incor- porated, still more effectually, with the soil,

egg AGRICULTURE.

bv treading it in, with sheep : which not manure ; but assisted in giv- ing the desired texture to the soil ; beside :eable, in chec. eravag.

sod worm.

If it be right to grov .:, on very

it land, these appear to be eligible means, for obtaining a crop.

The herbage of RYE is, here, a common crop ; both for eating upon the ground, and for green forage ; but chiefly for ewes and lambs.

In the middle of April, 1791, I saw ewes and lambs feeding on rye, which was then nearly a foot high; but the spring was forward. In the beginning of May, the rve was in ear ; yet still sheep were upon it ; gathering the tops ; and leaving the stubble, the height of the knee.

Cultivated herbage. This is chiefly or wholly CLOVER : and this, I belie v seldom, if ever, suffered to remain in the ground, more than one year.

The reason given, for not keeping the arable lands, longer, in a state of temporary herbage, is, that the sod worms would de- stroy the wheat crop.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 189

Remark. If this is really the fact ; and no method of preventing their mischiefs, by- clean tillage, or otherwise, can be struck out, the present practice may be right. But the soil, itself, is well adapted to the Nor- folk practice, of a crop of clover the first year, and a spring crop of raygrass the se- cond j(breaking up the second year's ley, as soon as the spring shoot of raygrass is pastured off, and fallowing the soil, through the summer, for wheat. A practice which appears to be peculiarly suited to the Dis- trict of Petworth ; as the spring shoot of raygrass would be found highly serviceable, in the ewe-and-lamb husbandry, which will be mentioned : and the fallowing might be still more advantageous, in destroying the vermin.

SAINFOIN. An instance of sainfoin flourishing on a poor, uncalcareous, sandy spot of ground, within the District now under view, being evidenced, in such a man- ner, as to leave no doubt of the fact, I made a point of examining the field where it grew, and inquiring into the circumstances that accompanied this interesting incident.

The subsoil, at the depth of two feet, is

i9o AGRICULTURE.

a sheer sand, perfectly noncalcareous. The bottom of an interfurrow (about a foot be- low the general surface ; — the field then in a state of fallow) was perceptibly calca- reous. Among the topsoil, some knobs, and many specks, of chalklike matter ap- peared ; also some flints.

An elderly laborer, who knew t(fc field, and the circumstances attending it, at the time it was in sainfoin, related to me, — that the first year's crop was very good ; full two loads an acre ; the second year, too, it was good ; but not so large as in the first ; that the third year, it never rose to the sithe ; and the fourth year, it was plowed up ; some pasturage being all that was got from it, the two last years.

With respect to the chalky matter, found in the soil, he thinks it proceeds from lime, not from chalk or marl, as he never heard of its being dressed, with either ; but the person to whom it then belonged, he says, limed very highly. Nevertheless, some of the knobs I picked up. wear no appearance of their having passed through fire ; and the land may, heretofore, have been marled or chalked.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 191

This being as it may, it is sufficiently evident, that the two profitable crops of sainfoin, which this field produced, was not the product of the natural soil ; but were thrown out by the calcareous matter, that had been mixed with it. And it is very pro- bable, that all soils, that have been marled, chalked, or repeatedly limed, will give out a few crops of sainfoin ; according to the quantity of calcareous matter they have re- ceived.

HOPS. There are several small grounds, in the District under view : particularly about the village of Byworth, in the neighbourhood of Petworth ; and that of Lodsworth, situated at the point, where the three districts. — the Weald, the Sandy loam, and the Heaths, — may be said to form their junction; and, what is remarkable, this small plot of country exceeds them all in fertility ; being singularized by its grass lands, its orchards, and its hop grounds.

In the management of hop grounds, the Farnham practice is followed : and my chief motive for mentioning them, here, is to show the eastward extent of that practice. See the Valley of Farnham.

i92 AGRICULTURE.

ORCHARDS. The township of Bury, on the maam-soil lands, abounds with or- chard grounds. In a bearing year, several hundred, even a thousand, hogsheads of cider are said to have been made, in this parish only.

The trees are most noticeable. They are much lower, and stand closer on the. ground, even than those of West Devon- shire. The filbert bushes of Maidstone, are many of them taller, and stand wider, than the apple bushes of Bury. They are chiefly, I was told, of a singular variety, which grows freely, from cuttings, or rather slips, plucked from the boughs ; and that may account for the shrubbiness of their growth. This variety is called, there, the " sweet apple," which may be an object of cultiva- tion, in other places.

An instance occurred to me, in the Dis- trict under view, of the hardiness of the apple blossom ; at least in a season, when there is a sufficient strength of blow. On the twelfth of May, there was ice, as thick as the half- crown piece ; many ash trees were much injured, by the frost ; yet the blossoms of the apple remained bright, and in full vigor.

DISTRICT OE PETWORTH. 193

HORSES. In speaking of the manage- ment of horses, in Yorkshire, I mention- ed an idea, that had been suggested to me, respecting the probable advantage to be gained, by the spaying of xMares ; not being apprized, at that time, of its ever having been attempted, to be carried into practice.

In this District, however, it has been car- ried into effect. I saw a mare, in 1791, then rising five or six years old, which was spayed, at eight days old, by a colt-cutter, in the neighbourhood of Pet worth.

She was a well bred mare, and of a size proper for hunting. The farmer, to whom she belonged, asked seventy guineas for her : a proof that, in his esteem, at least, she had not been injured by the operation.

It is proper to be mentioned, here, that the tenants of the Petworth estate, who are desirous of breeding hunters, or saddle horses, of a superior quality, have the pri- vilege of sending their mares, to the first blood horses in the kingdom, gratis ; except the usual fee, to the groom. This is a spe- cies of generosity, which brings its own reward ; by furnishing the country with

vol. 11. O

i94 AGRICULTURE.

valuable horses ; and by their comparatively high prices enriching the estate.

CATTLE. In the West of England, I hazarded some general remarks, on the different breeds or varieties of cattle, that are at present established in this Island ; as well as on their probable origins. The Sus- sex breed are there considered, as one of the purest branches of the native, or ancient stock of the Island ; and as agreeing, in almost every essential character, with the present breeds of Devonshire, and Here- fordshire: and I have not, since pub- lishing those remarks, had any reason, to alter that opinion.

In East Sussex, as in North Devonshire, the breed has long possessed the largest size, and, in many respects, the best form ; though, on the borders of Kent, as has been already noticed (see Weald of Kent) some individuals possess too much of the square- ness, and gumminess, of the old short- horned, or Dutch breed. Nevertheless, as has likewise been intimated, there are in- dividuals, in that part of Sussex, and in the Weald of Kent, which are apparently free from that base admixture of blood, and which

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. i95

are of a size, and in a form, equal to the best of the South Herefordshire cattle. On the contrary, in the West of Sussex, as in the West of Devonshire, a thinness of flesh, and carcass, has been the prevailing cha- racter.

Lord Montague (the predecessor of the late Lord) paid much attention to the breed ; and raised it to a degree of excellence. In 1791, I saw the remains of the Cowdry stock : among them, eight oxen, in a car- riage, which were, I think, the finest and most valuable team of oxen, I have any where seen. In Sussex, his Lordship is said to have effected this great improvement, solely, by the means of Sussex cattle, drawn from the eastern parts of the county. But a gentleman of Devonshire assured me, that the North Devonshire breed had some share in the improvement. And, judging from the cleanness, color, and form, of some of the individuals I saw, this was probably the case.

Whatever was the real source of the breed

of Cowdry, West Sussex has the less to

regret, in the loss of it, since Lord Egre-

mont is carrying on the patriot work of

O2

196 AGRICULTURE.

improvement, with unequalled zeal ; and on a broader basis, than that on which it has, heretofore, been pursued, in any part of the Island ; and to the Petworth breed, it is highly probable, the county, and the coun- try at large, will, hereafter, look up for the point of excellence.

His Lordship, having no confined view to direct him, nor any narrow prejudice to warp his intentions, has blunted provincial jealousies, by indiscriminately selecting from the three kindred breeds, of Sussex, Here- fordshire, and Devon, individuals of the first qualitv : and breeding, from these, as from one and the same stock : keeping steadily in view, the three essential qualifi- cations of cattle; namely, working, the

DAIRY, and GRAZING.

To promote this conflux of the purest blood of the three varieties, and of course their general improvement, his Lordship, a few years ago, instituted exhibitions of cattle, of these breeds ; and distributed re- v.ards, to those who produced the most perfect individuals ; no matter from which of the three varieties their blood might happen to spring.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 197

The improvement which has been already made (1797) by these truely noble and pa- triotic exertions, is evident, in the young stock now rearing ; and the more public shows, which, to forward those exertions, have been appointed to be held, annually, at Lewes, cannot fail, so long as they are conducted, on the same basis, and in the same disinterested, public-spirited manner, to prove a lasting benefit, to the Southern Counties, and the kingdom at large ; there being no other established breed in the Island, equal to those under notice, for the three essential purposes of cattle.

In the GENERAL ECONOMY, Or MANAGE- MENT of cattle, I noticed nothing, in the District under view, that requires a place, here ; except the method of

Rearing calves. In this particular, (as was noticed in the last District) the Sussex practice is singular ; essentially differing, I believe, from every other established prac- tice of the Island, at the present day. In other parts of England, calves are either reared wholly by hand (not being at all permitted to suck their dams), as in the north of Yorkshire; or are suffered to

198 AGRICULTURE

remain at the teat, a few days, and are then fed with milk, gruel, or other nourishing food, in the pail, for several months ; until they are finally turned abroad, to grass and water : the process of rearing calves being, — for an obvious reason, that of collecting dairy produce, — different from the more na- tural way of rearing every other species of domestic animals. Whereas, in Sussex, horses, cattle, sheep, and swine may be said to be reared, in the same manner.*

Before the invention of pails, this was necessarily the prevailing practice ; which would seem to have been handed down, in Sussex, from that time, to the present. In early spring, young calves, as young pigs, are seen loose with their dams, in the yards; and, afterwards, in the field, as foals or lambs ! While the calves are young, the cows afford a greater or less surplus of milk ; and, after the weaning of the calves, they are brought, wholly, into the dairy.

* In the Midland Counties, and more or less, in other places, it is not unusual to rear bull calves, and perhaps highbred heiters, at the teat ; but seldom at their dam's ; ordinary cows being bought in, for this particular purpose, and afterward fatted, as grazing stock.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 199

The age of weaning is from ten to twelve weeks ; when the calves are put, solely, upon grass; without milk, and without wa- ter ! Another singular point of practice ; which appears to be entitled to attention. The motive assigned, for not allowing them water, is that of preventing their becoming " pig-bellied ": and, while they have a full bite of succulent herbage, especially in a moist season, this point of the Sussex prac- tices is probably well founded ; and should be tried, with due caution, in other countries.

SHEEP. This is, naturally, a sheep dis- trict ; and it has not only adopted them, in preference to cattle ; but has fallen into a routine of practice, to which, by situation also, it. is well adapted: namely, that of providing early grass lamb, or rather field lamb, for the Metropolis: a prac- tice which is the more profitable, as it is confined, I believe, to a few districts. West Sussex, and the Isle of Wight are the only ones, in which I have particularly ob- served it.

The breed, which are applicable to this species of sheep farming, is the Dorsetshire,

2oo AGRICULTURE.

or house lamb breed : (see West of Eng- land).

The place of purchase is principally, or wholly, Weyhill ; being brought, to the Michaelmas fair, full of lamb, from Devon- shire, and the other more Western Counties. (See as above.)

The desired time of lambing is about a month before Christmas.

Their food is the herbage of the stubbles and leys, from Michaelmas to near the time of lambing ; and, from thence, on turneps, tares, rye, and other cultivated herbage.

The time of sale, I believe, generally commences about the beginning of April ; and lasts, during the whole of that month, and part of May ; thus supplying the mar- ket, until grass lamb be ready.

The places of sale are Smithjield, and the different markets, in London ; particularly, I understand, Leadenhall market : where they are sold by commission butchers; who take the charge of them, from the farm ; slaughter them ; and sell the quarters, to the retail butchers ; accounting, to the far- mer, for the gross amount of the sale ; to-

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH.

gether with the sale price of the pelt and offal.

The price which the commission butchers accounted for, in the middle of April, 1791, was seven pence., a pound, for the quarters, with about three shillings a head, for the offal.

But, at present (1797), the early lambs, from this quarter of Sussex, are chiefly, I understand, sold alive, in Smithfield.

The disposal of the ewes is effected in two ways. If a farmer have plenty of food left, after the lambs are sold off, he throws his ewes into a flush of keep, and gives them the ram. I observed ewes (off which lambs had just been taken) with a ram among them, picking oft the heads of rye coming into ear, the third of May ; and, urged by this stimulating food, they were expected to receive the ram, in about a week from that time. On the contrary, if his food has been expended, on the lambs, he sells his ewes, to those who have a suitable provi- sion made for them.

Ewes impregnated, at this early season of the year, become valuable to the house lamb farmers; who either purchase them,

log AGRICULTURE.

immediately of the field lamb farmer, as his food is exhausted ; or of a sort o^ middle men, who make a business of purchasing the suckling ewes of the latter, as soon as their lambs go off; and, having suitable food prepared for them, procure the early- impregnation required ; afterwards, sup- plying the small house lamb farmers, near London, with such lots as they may want.

Remark. Thus, the practice under no- tice forms a requisite link, in the chain of rural transactions, which supply the metro- polis, with winter lamb. Such ewes, as the West of England sheep farmers cannot send up, forward enough in lamb, for that purpose, (and whicl>is necessarily all those that have n their fo>t lambs) are pur-

chased, by the field lamb farmers ; who, by fatting their produce, early in the spring, gain an opportunity oi bringing them for- ward enough, the ensuing autumn, for the purpose of the house lamb farmer : who continues to u^e them, as suckling ewes, so long as their milk lasts ; and, then, either sells them to the grazier ; or sends them back to the middleman : and, by that means,

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 203

another produce of early house lamb is ob- tained.

What renders the District of Petworth favorable to this practice, is not so much its being situated, in some degree, between the West of England and the environs of Lon- don, as its being one of the few Districts, in which even the Dorsetshire ewes can be in- duced to receive the ram, soon enough, for the profitable purpose of producing early winter, or Christmas lamb.

SWINE. Another practice, peculiar, perhaps, to West Sussex, as I have not met with it in any other part of the Island, is that of summering store swine, in marshes; treating them as a species of grass land, or

PASTURING STOCK.

This singular practice I observed, on the " brook lands/' at the junction of the Arun and the Rother, between Pulborough and Arundel ; and on these, principally, I be- lieve, the practice is pursued, on a large scale.

At the time I had an opportunity of ob- serving it (about the middle of April) the season had barely commenced : nevertheless, then, there were many spread over the area oftheMarshes,grazing as sheep on commons.

204 AGRICULTURE.

Beside their own stock, the Marsh far- mers take in joist, or agistment swine, at the low price of half a crown, a head, for the summer ; namely, from the beginning of May, to the middle of September: with, however, one shilling a head, more, to the swine herd, for his care and attention : thus paying, for near twenty weeks, fortytwo pence ; or somewhat more than twopence, a head, a week.

Pigs of almost every size, and age, and of any breed, are sent to those brook land pastures; but chiefly, I understand, grow- ing store hogs, from three or four, to ten or twelve months old. Even sows in pig are sometimes kept there, until they farrow

The fences of these Marshes are sewers, or water ditches ; which are found sufficient to confine the young hogs ; though the older sometimes break away.

From what I gathered on the subject, it appears, that store hogs, which are sent to those Marshes, in tolerable condition, will retain that state, and increase considerably, in size ; especially, if the season prove dry. Under these circumstances, the usual im- provement is five to ten shillings, a head.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. ao5

On the contrary, if they are sent in, poor, and a wet summer ensue, many of them die of the rot ; and those, which survive, make little improvement.

Upon the whole, it appears to me pro- bable, that swine will not be found, in this Island, a profitable species of pastur- ing stock : at least, while the valuable breeds of cattle and sheep, which it is at present possessed of, are to be had, in sufficient plenty. As an attendant on the dairy, the farm yard, and the cottage that has a suf- ficiency of garden ground annexed to it, the hog is a most valuable species of domestic animal.*

* Grass Pork. I must not, however, omit to mention, here, an interesting experiment, made by my Lord Egremont, on fatting porkers, at grass. This ex- periment was made, with the "white Chinese," a neat small breed of pigs. They were put, at six or seven months old, into a suite of fatting deer paddocks, in the month of May, and remained, there, until October; when the pork was firm, finely flavored, and the color peculiarly delicate. This experiment suggests the idea, that, by allowing grazing hogs a small quantity of corn, to give the flesh the requisite mellowness y pork of a su- perior qualitv, — and of singular purity, — may be pro- duced

2o6 AGRICULTURE.

A practice of cottagers, in this part of the Island, with respect to the animal under notice, is well entitled to attention, in every other. During the spring and summer months, every laborer, who has industry, frugality, and conveniency sufficient, to keep a pig, is seen carrying home, in the even- ing, as he returns from his labor, a bundle of "hog weed;" — namely, the beracl spbondylium, or cow parsnep ; which is here well known to be a nutritive food of swine. Children, too, are sent out, to collect it, in by roads, and on hedge banks. And there may be other weeds, if trial were made, that might be found equally nutritioi

DEER. Another extraordinary practice of West Sussex remains to be noticed.

In every quarter of the kingdom, it has been prevalent, of late years, to di spark, wholly or in part, the deer which had been occupying, unprofitable, no inconsiderable

* Cow parsnep. The early and rapid growth of this plant has, long ago, and frequently, struck me. Not only swine, but sheep and rabbits, are partial to it. Surely, its cultivation should be attempted. Its seeds are most easily collected. As green forage, for hogs, it could not fail of being profitable.

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 207

portion of its lands, for some centuries past ; and to supply their places, with sheep : thus rendering the demesne lands of benefit to the public, as well as profitable to their owners.

In Sussex, similar advantages have been obtained through somewhat different means. Here, instead of driving away the deer, and introducing sheep, the former have been converted to profit. And although the public benefit may not be so great, from venison and deer skins, as from mutton and wool, there seems to be no impropriety at- tached to the practice, of sending the for- mer to market ; a practice which is here followed, though not by men of the highest rank, yet by men of good fortune, and the first character.

RABBITS. This diminutive, but in many cases profitable, species of farm stock, is not uncommon, in this part of Sussex. But, here, as throughout every part, I be- lieve, of the Southern Counties, they may be said to remain in a state of nature ; without fences to confine them. But, surely, on many of the lighter lands of this District, inclosed warre. : "ally cultivated, as

2o8 AGRICULTURE.

in the North of England, might be found very advantageous.

STATE OF HUSBANDRY. Seeing the soil of this District, and the peculiar advan- tage of its situation, with respect to the house lamb breed of sheep, the outline of management appears to be judicious. But a want of due attention to minlti.e, or particular points of practice, is everywhere evident. In returning to the District, in the autumn of 1791, after having examined, with more or less attention, the several districts between this and the Land's End, the first notice I find in my Journal stands, literally, thus : — " the foulest plot of coun- try I have seen since I left it!" And this, notwithstanding the unnecessary expence that is betowed on its culture.

I M PRO V E M E NTS. The first and greatest improvement is, obviously, that of reclaiming the lands, from their present state of foulness. And, in doing this, to adopt a plow team suitable to the soil ; and thus reduce the expence of tillage, to little more than half of what it costs, at present. Two oxen, of a suitable age, and seasoned to their work, with one man and

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 209

a proper implement, are abundantly suffi- cient, to perform what I have repeatedly seen six, sometimes eight oxen, with a man and a youth, or perhaps two men, em- ployed upon !*

By underdrawing, much improvement might be made ; especially, on the southern side of the District. I observed many in- stances, in which low moory grounds would pay, five fold, for the operation, — if pro- perly conducted.

By watering, still more is to be done, on that side of the river. The calcare- ous brooks and rivulets, that rise, wholly, or in part, at the feet of the Chalk Hills, would pay, amply, for the expence of con- ducting them over the grass lands, that lie low enough to receive them. In 1791, I observed only one suite of grounds, that be- nefited, in any sort, by this natural advan- tage. At that time, however, another smal- ler plot was undergoing the operation. And numberless other sites were aptly placed, to receive it. Even the waters of the Ro- ther, which receives part of its supply from the same source, would, it is highly pro-

* See Eeasts of Labour, page 171. VOL. II. P

AGRICULTURE.

bable, be found a profitable, as well as a copious, means of this improvement. Tenants. -r, might with great ju -

m reply, to these proposals — •' It would be imprudent, in us. to set about such im- provements, unless we had some certainty of reaping the benefit of them:" and, doubt- less, the fi: towards agricultural im- provements,— is that of GRANTING LEA5;

Even the ru tate of foulness, in which

the lands of this D.s:rict remain, may find some excuse, in the uncertainty of the te- nancy, under which, I understand, they are principally held.

.is FOUNTAIN OF IMPROVEMENTS be- longs to proprietors ; and it is ever their interest, independent of all other considera- . ns, to set the example of good will to- wards men, and to sow the seeds of im- provement, upon their estates ; that they DttLj take root, grow up, and flourish, with their tenantry ; who, on a leased estate, have not only the example before them, but the more powerful motive of their own in- terest, in

The rapid decrease in the value of money, at has been going on, for the last twenty

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 21 r

years (owing to a banefully impolitic in- flux of circulating paper) and the conse- quent nominal rise, in the rents of lands, has deterred many men of landed property* from granting leases, of a sufficient length, to induce spirited tenants, to lay out their money, in the requisite improvements : thus smothering the very principle, which it is their best interest to cherish.

Tvventyone years is the term coveted, by an improving tenant ; and, when such im- provements, as draining, watering, and marl- ing are required, a shorter term cannot, in itself, indemnify a tenant. Hence, it is in- dispensably necessary, to the improvement of an estate, on which draining, watering, marling, or any other permanent, or lasting improvement is to be made, either to grant a term of sufficient length ; or to make the re- quisite improvements at the proprietor's own expence ; or to indemnify the tenant, for the remainder of such improvement, at the expiration of his term.

Beside, there is one general argument held out, against leases, of any determinate length, and in favor of letting estates re- main at will, or from year to year, When

P 2

:i2 AGRICULTURE.

a tenant knows, with certainty, the end of his term, he arranges his plan accordingly, and strives, by every means, to exhaust and impoverish his farm ; and, in cases of ran- cor and ill blood, between landlord and tenant, not un frequently, at his own cost. Indeed, some cases of this kind have fallen under my observation.

These circumstances led me, many years ago, to a principle of management, which, I conceive, ought to be adopted on every estate, which is under leases, for terms cer- tain : namely, that of coming to a clear understanding, with the tenant, three years iously to the expiration of his term ; and either to renew his lease, at that time ; or, in case of non-agreement, to look closely to his management, during the remainder of his term: for, until within three years of the expiration of the term, the interests of the landlord and the tenant, in the ordinary routine of husbandry, are the same. A te- nant, previously to that time, cannot (unless in a few instances) injure his landlord, with- out, at the same time, injuring himself. But about that time, their interests begin to se- parate. The farm may be in a sufficient

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 2 [3

state of melioration and tillage, to last out the term, with little addition of labor or manure ; and it is a matter of indifference, to him, in what state of foulness and steri- lity, it is left ; provided his interest, on the v/hole, has been benefited. The conse- quence is, the farm is worth less, to an in- coming occupier, than it would have been, if it had gone on, in the regular course of husbandrv.

But obviouslv true, as this is, it never struck me, until latelv, that a running lease might be advantageously formed, on these principles.

Finding, however, an insuperable objec- tion to long leases becoming, more and more prevalent ; yet, seeing the sort of necessity, which there is, for giving tenants, on every estate, more than six months' certaintv of their holdings, I was led to apply the prin- ciple, in a way, which, I conceive, mav be- come of general utility.

On the two estates, on which I have had opportunities of proposing this species of tenancy, it has been adopted ; and, on one of them, has been already carried into effect.

U4 AGRICULTURE.

The outline is simply this. A term is granted for six years certain (or a great- er number, as nine years, according to circumstances), and, thence, from three

YEARS tO THREE YEARS, SO long as both

parties shall agree. That is to say, if, at or before the end of three years, neither party do give notice to the other, to quit, at the expiration of the term of six years, the term becomes lengthened to nine years ; and if, at the end of six years, no such notice is given, then it is further prolonged to twelve years ; and so on, CONTINUALLY, until one of the parties shall give the re- quired notice. And, with the still farther security to the tenant, that, at the final ter- mination of the holding, he shall be al- lowed for the remainder of such im- provements, as are of a permanent or durable nature, whatever three referees shall deem such particular improvements to be worth, to the succeeding occupier : the general state of improvement resting, of course, with the estate.

The advantages of a lease of this nature are so obvious, as scarcely to require to be particularly pointed out. On the part of

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 215

the tenant, they are so evident, that even the most illiterate and unenlightened, to which it has been offered, has embraced it, without hesitation. He has always from three to six years certainty, before him. At the close of every three years, he has, in effect, a new lease, of six years, granted him : and this without any anxiety, or wavering of conduct, on the score of uncertainty ; without any time being lost, in meetings, attendance, and consultations ; and, what is gratifying to a farmer, without the expence of a fresh pair of leases.

On the part of the proprietor, the advan- tages are equal. His estate (except such parts as may happen to be under notice to quit) is in the hands of men, who have an interest in cultivating it, to the best of their abilities : yet it is ever so far under his com- mand, that, in the course of a few years, he can regain possession ; whether for the pur- pose of sale, exchange, laying out his estate to advantage, or to increase his rent roll. If, in the latter case, the tenant, on notice given, agree to the required rise, the course of management, and the prosperity of the estate, proceed, uninterrupted.

2x6 AGRICULTURE.

The covenants of a lease, on this prin- ciple, ought, of course, to be governed, by the given circumstances of the estate ; — its soils, situation, and established course of management. In any case, it is evident, that the ordinary restrictions, which a lease of this nature requires, are comparatively few : but that extraordinary regulations, to take place after notice given, should not only be entered into, but diligently enforced ; so that the farm, during the last three years of the term, may be brought into the most desireable succession of crops ; with suit- able fallows : and be left, at the expira- tion of the term, in such a state of clean- ness and tillage, that the succeeding oc- cupier may be able, without difficulty or extraordinary cost, to crop and stock it, immediately, and in like manner, as if he had himself occupied it, during the three preceding years, agreeably to the best prac- tice of the country it lies in.

Every department or district requires, and every estate may adopt, a separate code of regulations, suitable to given circumstances. One which I conceive to be adapted to the West of England, and

DISTRICT OF PETWORTH. 217

particularly to my Lord Heathfield's estate, in East Devonshire, I have drawn up with attention.

My motive for bringing the subject for- ward, in this place, is not solely for the purpose of recommending this species of tenancy, to the proprietors of West Sussex ; but to embrace the first favorable oppor- tunity of bringing it before the public : as I know no estate, on which it may not be profitably adopted.

THE

SEA COAST

OF

SUSSEX.

THE SITUATION, of this extraor- dinary passage of country, is between the southern division of the Chalk Hills, and the English Channel : extending, eastward, with a narrow point, to near Brighthelms- ton ; and, westward, to near Portsmouth: comprizing the Isle of Selsey, and other islands and peninsulae, towards the western extremity.

The INFORMATION, which I am pos- sessed of, respecting this fertile District, was gained in three different views of it : first, in tracing it length way from Bright- helmston, by Shoreham and Arundel, to

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 219

Chichester, in the wane of April, 1 79 1 : next, in an excursion from Petvvorth, through the more central parts of it, in the middle of May: and, lastly, In a circuit, from Chi- chester, by Bracklesome, to the Isle of Sel- sey, and thence to Chichester and Ports- mouth (on my leaving Sussex, for the Isle of Wight and Devonshire), in the early part of October, in the same year.

The EXTENT, or superficial contents, cannot be readily estimated. The length is about forty miles ; and the width, in some parts, three or four, in others, five or six miles; but, to the east of the Arun, it is narrow ; and much of the western part is occupied by water. The main body of the District lies, between Arundel and Ems- worth, distant about seventeen miles ; and the medium width, of this part, may be reckoned at five miles ; so that this, alone, contains upwards of eighty square miles ; and the whole may be estimated at more than a hundred square miles.

Its ELEVATION, above the surface of the sea, is inconsiderable. Indeed, some parts of it still lie below the level of high water. Much of the arable land does not

220 DISTRICT.

appear to lie, more than three feet, above high water mark ; and scarcely any part of the sixty four thousand acres under view, rises more than five or six feet, above the level of spring tides. Water is seen stag- nant, in the ditches and sewers, to near the surface of the cultivated lands, in almost every part of the District ; the center of the Isle of Selsey excepted.*

The ATMOSPHERE of this District, immediately connected, as it is, with that of the ocean, on one side, and of the Chalk Hills, on the other, (both of them prover- bially pure) is unwholesome: occasioned, probably, by the stagnant waters that in- tersect its area. Agues are prevalent. To agriculture, however, the climatureis favor- able : the harvest is forward, and the crops abundant : owing principally, no doubt, to

* The Isle of Selsey. This, doubtless, has once b?t.!i an island; but is, at present, attached, by a narrow isthmus, to the main land. Nevertheless, during high spring tides, the water which filters through the gravelly- beach, that defends the flat country, to the west of the island, makes its way, across the isthmus, into the inlet or estuary, on the north and east sides of the island. This circumstance I had an opportunity of observing.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 221

the soil ; but may not the same putrescent effluvia which are injurious to animal health, be serviceable to vegetation ?

The surplus WATERS that fall on the area, and overflow the ditches, either find their way, into the brooks and estuaries, or are let out, immediately into the sea, at the sluices, formed in the sea fence, which m\]\ be mentioned.

The SOIL of this productive flat of land is, invariably, a deep, rich loam ; except at the immediate foot of the Chalk Hills, where it is lighter and less fertile ; a mixture of sand and gravel; and, in some parts, mere " beach/' or sheer flinty gravel.

The SUBSOIL is more various. At a short distance from the feet of the hills, west of the Arun, the flinty gravel dips, and is covered with the loamy soil, just men- tioned. Still more towards the sea, the top- soil rests on a paler colored loam ; and, on the coast, the soil, there three or four feet deep, lies on a bed of marl or chalk; which, at a small distance from the shore, breaks out into the sea ; and probably, is the pre- vailing substructure, of the entire flat.

222 DISTRICT.

Geological remarks. It is impossible to view a passage of country, like this, which wears so many marks of its being a creation of the present zcorld, — of its having been formed, since the surface of the earth re- ceived its present configuration, — without suffering the mind to make some attempts towards discovering the means, by which nature's laws have formed so valuable a production. The levelness of surface, the beach found at the foot of the hills, and the superincumbent silt, mud, or loam (si- milar to that of sea marshes) and the im- mediate vicinity of the sea, — all show it to be the production of that powerful artist : who (a poetic mind might feign) having repented of his work, is now demolishing it. It has probably been of much greater extent, than it is at present. In 1791, the churchyard of Middleton was nearly torn away, and the church itself in danger ; be- ing then, but a few yards out of the reach of the waves. At Selsey and Bracklesome, similar depredations were going on ; the highest grounds, by giving the greatest re- sistance, suffer the most.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 225

It also belongs to these remarks, to no- tice a natural phenomenon, which takes place, near the toot of the chalk hill, above Walberton : where, a number of dimples, dry basons, provincially " dell holes/' have been formed, and are still forming, by some invisible agent : doubtless, by the waters, absorbed by the chalk, and, falling down to the base of the hill, there finding a subter- ranean passage, to the sea ; carrying with it, of course, what loose matter it meets with. And, if observations were made, it would probably be found, that the sinking of the surface happens, about the time that the bourns of chalk hills usually break out ; the phenomenon, under notice, being pro- bably caused, by a subterranean bourn, that break out, into the sea, at the same season.

SEA FENCE. The great public work of this District is the sea fence, which, in some parts, may be said to preserve its ex- istence, as a culturable country. In the parts, above noticed, where the sea is tear- ing away the highest and best lands, no fence I believe is attempted ; the water, there, being deep, by reason of the reflux

214 DISTRICT.

of the waves, on having met with resistance/ And, even could " grynes" be formed, the recoil would prevent the requisite accumu- a tion of materials, to form the fence.

In some parts, as that mentioned to the west of Selsey, a natural fence is thrown up, by the sea. There are not, at least, any signs, at present, of art having been used. This fence consists of a high narrow ridge of flintv gravel ; showing a steep face on the land side, of ten or more feet in height ; the side, towards the sea, being less steep ; — shelving with a gentle slope, under deep water.* The sea rises, of course, to the top of the bank (the gravel having been thrown up by it), and, in tempestuous weather, doubtless, breaks over it. I rode upon itr during a high tide, and a strong southerly wind, when the water rose, to within three feet of the top ; while the eye, when riding at the foot of the bank, on the margin of the marshes, could not perceive the waves :

• Resembling, in a striking manner, the artificial bank or " sea wall" of Romney Marsh! The bold un- dertaker of that great work having, perhaps, copied the- beach banks, la its neighbourhood.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 225

even, then, it was four or five feet above the level of the marshes.

Remarks. The natural law, by which these gravel banks, or natural sea walls, are formed, appears to be, simply, that of an impelling force, without recoil, or counter- action. The loose gravel, deposited at the bottom of the ocean, is forced up, by the violence of the waves ; which, meeting with no resistance, spend themselves, and return leisurely ; leaving the gravel thrown up, in the place, or nearly in the place, where they lodged it ; every succeeding wave im- pelling it forward, until it reach the extent of their force ; and, of course, has been raised to a height, which cannot be over- topped, but by an effort, equal, or nearly equal, to that which raised it.

In the early stages of growth, of a bank of this nature, every high tide, and every tempestuous wave, breaks over it ; and, in this state, it is injurious, rather than useful, to the lands that lie behind it ; the wa- ters rushing upon them with double force. Hence, probably, the low flat of marshes', behind the line of beach under notice : the soil and subsoil having probably been torn

VOL. II. Q

226 DISTRICT.

away, by this means, and carried into the estuary, to the eastward of the island.

In this view of the formation of beach banks, it is evident, that no other material, than gravel, or small stones, can be em- ployed. It mast be of such a nature, that the waves can move it, with freedom ; yet heavy enough to lie firmly where it is lodged; until it be impelled forward, by another wave. It must neither be of a perishable, nor a volatile nature ; but such as neither wind, nor water (unless in a violently agitat- ed state) can move. Sand is capable of being forced up, by the sea, as gravel, into banks or ridges; but, in that state, it only be- comes more liable to the sport of the winds, than it is on a level surface. And unless it be arrested, by natural or artificial means, it is presently blown back into the sea, or scattered over the adjoining lands.*

On that part of the coast, under notice, where marl and loam form the shore, or margin of the sea, an artificial fence is

* For an account of the Marram banks, or na- tural sea walls of the Coa«t of Norfolk, see the Rural Economy of that County, Vol. II. Min: 106. S<-c also Romney Marsh, in Vol. I. p. 392.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 227

obliged to be made, at a great expence ; to catch what little gravel, or hard materials, are thrown up by the waves. This is ef- fected by two lines of strong dwarf paling, placed a few feet from each other; forming cases, provincially " grines," to retain what- ever is thrown into them; and, it is pos- sible, that the beach banks, above described, may have had their origin, in a similar ex- pedient * This, however, being as it may, the artificial fences are not yet sufficient, to prevent very high tides from overflowing them, to the damage of the country. I saw

a fine piece of wheat very much injured

in part destroyed— by the sea having broke in upon it.

Perhaps Marram (arundo arenaria) or some other marine plant, might assist in

* These banks reach, from the Isle of Selsey, to Bracklesome, where a Roman causeway commences: and it may have been originally formed, to prevent the flat country, between the landing place and Chichester, from being inundated.

Tradition, however, relates, that, during a violent gale of wind, a gap was torn, in this beach bank; and that, after every human endeavor had been employed, in vain' to repair the breach, another tempest made good the defect. This renders it probable, that it is, originally, a work of the waves.

22g DISTRICT.

raising the beach, in these parts, more ra- pidly, and firmly, than the grines alone.

TIDE MILLS. The inlets and creeks, with which the western quarter of the Dis- trict, in particular, abounds, are frequently turned to a valuable purpose; by which innumerable situations, of a similar kind, on everv coast of the kingdom, might pro- fit. Yet the tides continue to flow into them, in vain ; while rtvtr mills are suffered to destroy, or injure, land of the first qua- lity ; and prevent the improvement of still more, that might be made highly valuable to society. On the contrary, tide mills, in- stead of wasting land, tend to create it.

The method of obtaining a tide mill is, merely, that of running a dam, across the branch of an inlet, or estuary ; leaving a narrow passage, generally near one end, and, at this gap or opening, to place the mill. A quantity of w ater being forced, by the tide, to the upper side of the dam, through valved 5, made for this pur-

pose, a mill pool is formed ; and, with the water thus pent up, the mill is worked, Until the return of the tide : when the pool, in a few hours., is again replenished.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 229

The foul water, forced up by the tide, being kept long in a stagnant state, has time to deposit its foulness; and thus tends, eventually, to convert the mill pool, into a marsh, or meadow ground.

Remarks. I do not mean to speak of tide mills, as being peculiar to this part of Sussex ; having observed them, in different parts of the Island. But, perhaps, there are ten opportunities of erecting them neglect- ed, for one embraced : indeed, in many parts of the kingdom, they are unknown : and every means of lessening the number of river mills ; especially of those turned by brooks, and rivulets, in rich vale dis- tricts ; ought not only to be universally known, but to be forthwith applied. The interests of agriculture, and the welfare of the country, demand it.

For WATER CARRIAGE, the District is singularly well situated. Each creek has its landing place. At Ford, near the mouth of the Arun, is a commodious wharf: and Chichester has its port or key, within a few miles of it.

And, in ROADS, it is equally well ac- commodated. Flinty gravel, the first of

233 DISTRICT.

road materials, is almost everywhere abun- dant. But, in the excess of this abundance, a new road, or one recently mended, is al- most as difficult to travel on, as the beach banks, thrown up by the tide. If a thin- ner coat v. ere laid on ; or some strong loam spread over t. e surface, in such manner, as to indkiee the gravel to bind, the traveller, at least, would find an advantage.

The TOWNSHIPS are below the middle This is a strong circumstantial evi- dence, that the lands of the District were not onlv brought to their present form, but cultivated, before the laying out of town- ships. It is probablv one of those rich plots of oomtfy, that were earlv cultivated, and full of inhabitants, v\hile the mountains, swamps, and less genial soils, remained in a state of nature.

STATE OF IXCLOSURE. The Dis- trict, in general, is divided into well sized inclosures, v% ith straight fences : mostlv live hedges. In the Isle of Seise v, I observed some common field land: also about Chi- chester. And, below it, some open com- mons ; part of which were then (1791) under inclosure.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 231

Conducting public inclosures. The mtendedjields and lanes onBirdham common were, then, (in October) marked out, and the roads made: a good plan of proceeding. The road materials were got on, in sum- mer, without cutting up the lands, or dis- turbing the unfinished road: and, in winter, and spring, when fencing materials were wanting, there would be a firm road, to convey them upon, to the respective allot- ments.

The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of the District are, principally, arable crops; with some rich grazing grounds and marsh lands, towards the eastern side of the main division, on the banks of the Arun ; as well as on those of the Adur, opposite Shoreham ; but with very little wood ; except what the hedges produce ; and these in many parts, are well stored with timber trees; chiefly oak and elm.

The richness and luxuriance of growth, which all its productions wear, give this District, perhaps, more intrinsic ORNA- MENT, than any other unbroken flat, of equal extent, can claim : and very few in- deed, can equal it, in the picturable effect

DISTRICT.

of its surrounding objects. The beautifully broken and wooded scenery of the Downs, rises full to the eye, in every part. And, on the other hand, the sea; which, to the south, is open and unbounded ; while to the west, it is diversified bv islands and head- lands, and finely distanced, by the Isle of Wight : furnishing scenery of singular gran- deur, from particular points of view.

AGRICULTURE.

FARMS. In size, they are of the middle cast. I observed few verv small ones. And those of two or three hundred pounds, a year, though not unfrequent, are esteemed of a large size. Hence, in this particular, the favored District, under view, is fortu- nately circumstanced.

The leading characteristic, of farms in general, is arable ; except towards the banks of the estuaries, where grazing forms a joint character.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 333

Upon the whole, perhaps, it may be said, that, the climate apart, there are few situa- tions more to be desired, by a professional man, than the Sea Coast of Sussex.

FARMERS. Besides the tenantry of the farms, above mentioned ; there are, I under- stand, many substantial yeomen, and some few gentlemen, who cultivate their own lands, in the higher, more healthy, parts of the District.

SERVANTS. The time of changing servants, here, as throughout the Southern Counties, I believe, is Michaelmas. On the 10th of October, the day I went over the western part of the District, the roads were crowded, with farm servants, leaving their places, and hying to the fair. It was a com- plete holiday s not a team to be seen ; or a stroke of work going forward : not with* standing every exertion was, at that time required, to accelerate the wheat sowing.

This evil of changing servants, at Mh chaelmas, will again be noticed in the Isle of Wight ; also in the Minutes in Surrey.

BEASTS OF LABOR. Entirely horses, of the heavy sorts ; and fat enough for the butcher ! Not an ox to be seen, at work ;

234 AGRICULTURE.

not even in the more grassland parts of the District. But breeding is not, here, an object: and buying in grown oxen, to workafew years, previously to their be- ing fatted, has not yet gained a footing.

IMPLEMENTS. Waggons, here, run fullsix feet, from middle to middle of the ruts !

The ordinary plow of the District is the one- wheeled plow of West Sussex.

The OBJECTS and plan of husban- dry, here, appear to be similar to those of the District of Petworth. Corn is the chief dependence: early lamb the next: with some fatting sheep and bullocks, in the more grazing parts of the District ; and pasturing swine, in every part.

The CROPS are wheat, oats, peas, turneps, tares, clover, and some flax; with a portion of barley : but the soils of the District are said to be unfavorable to this crop ; growing it, perhaps, too rank and thick-skinned. Wheat is the prevalent and profitable crop. Yet no beans, on this powerful wheat land !

TILLAGE. The usual plow team is four horses. But this is the more excuse- able, as what plowing, I particularly ob-

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 235

served, was done with a deep, clean, well turned furrow ; and the land, in general, wears the appearance of being in a good state of cultivation.

In barlevseed time, three horses, at length, or two and one, were a common plow team ; and in some instances, only two, but with drivers. How suitable a District for whip- rein plows.

The lands, or beds of plowed grounds, are well proportioned, in width, to the ab- sorbency of the given subsoil. Over the gravel, they are wide flat beds ; — but where the subsoil is of a more retentive nature, as strong loam, the lands are narrow : a dis- crimination and accuracy of management, which does credit to the District.

MANURE. In another instance of prac- tice, however, an extraordinary want of discernment has, lately, been made evident. Formerly, and until within the last fourteen years, it was the invariable practice of the District, to fetch chalk, from the quarries of Houghton, or other distant pits, and fa- gots, from the hills, to burn lime, in the area of the flat; even to the verge of the sea : and had it not been through the for-

136 AGRICULTURE.

tuitous, but fortunate circumstance, of a London tradesman turning farmer, the Dis- trict might still have been toiling on, in its old track.

This "sky farmer," (and such he was aptly named, for had he really dropped from the skies he could not well have brought a greater blessing to the country) seeing the same looking sort of material, as that which he procured at a great expence, exposed on the sea shore, and even showing itself, at the bottoms of his ditches, he collected some of the " white sea stones/' and threw them into his lime kiln, by way of experi- ment. The result was, they came out, in the same valuable state of manure, as that which he was obtaining, at a much greater cost, from " chalk."

Again, observing that this white marine fossil fell, or broke down, on being exposed to the atmosphere, he carted some upon his land, as marl ; and the effect was such, as to draw the eyes of his neighbours: who have, ever since, been striving who shall collect the greatest quantity of this u fa- mous sea marl." Those who live near the coast, collect it off the beach, at low water:

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 237

those whose lands lie, at a greater distance from the sea, dig pits in their fields; and, at not more, perhaps, than three or four feet deep, find the treasure, which had lain, there for ages ; and which might have re- mained, there, for ages to come, had not an experiment discovered its value.

Remark. This extraordinary discovery shows, not only the utility of making ex- periments, but the use of natural and chemical knowledge, with respect to fos- sils : for no man, possessed of even a small share of these, could have passed this cal- careous substance unnoticed. If tenants can- not be supposed to enter into the mysteries of nature and science, surely, in proprietors, or their agents, a sufficient knowledge of these things might reasonably be exerted. Indeed, unless in cases where long leases are granted, researches of this kind belong to the managers of estates, solely. And, in every case, the advantage, eventually, rests with proprietors.

A striking instance of the great improve- ment that may be made, on the value of land, by attentions of this nature, occurs in another part of the District under view ; where the light barren lands, that have been

238 AGRICULTURE.

mentioned to lie, near the feet of the Chalk Hills, and which, a few years ago, were not worth five shillings, an acre ; being chiefly over run with furze ; now bear abundant crops of corn, and wear the appearance of being worth three times their former rent. This improvement had been made, and (in 1791) was continued to be made, by means

Of MARL, Or SOFT CHALK, dug OUt of the

foot of the hill, of the same nature, and per- haps part of the same stratum, that breaks out at the sea shore.

WHEAT. On enumerating the objects of agriculture, it lias been remarked, that wheat is the prevailing crop. In May, one third of the lands, even in the more grass- land quarter of the District, appeared to be covered with rank luxuriant wheat. And, in October, near half the lands, of the more western quarter, appeared to be, then, under preparation for this crop ; which, throughout the District, may be said to oc- cupy the arable lands, every second year ; and, alternately, with any other crop ! as wheat, oats, wheat : wheat, clover, wheat : wheat, turneps, wheat : wheat, fallow, wheat.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 239

Nevertheless the produce, which is said to be reaped, is almost incredible. Five quarters, an acre, is deemed an ordinary crop : six or seven are spoken of familiarly.

Indeed, from what fell under my own observation, in the transient views I took of it, this District appears to comprize the most good wheat land, and to be, on the whole, the most valuable arable district, of equal extent, in the Island. There are dis- tricts of rich fen, or carse land, that, in a favorable season, may equal it in produc- tiveness ; but there are few seasons, I ap- prehend, in which wheat, at least, may not be sown, with a degree of certainty, on the lands of the Sea Coast of Sussex.

GRASSLANDS. Of these a four fold distinction may be made. The rich upper- land grazing grounds, in the eastern quar- ter of the main body of the District : the cooler, less productive marshes, and com- mons, towards the western extremitv : the u brooklands" or embanked salt marshes, by the sides and at the mouths of the estu- aries: and the "slipes," or open marshes, liable to be overflowed, by every high tide, or extraordinary swell of the sea.

24o AGRICULTURE.

The grazing grounds are of a singu- larly fertile nature. Some of them wear evi- dent vestiges of culture: others appear, as if thev had never been broken up, by the plow.

Some of these old grasslands have, of late years, been subjected to aration ; the tenants paying a valuable consideration, for the pri^ vilege of plowing them.

The slipes are literally saltmarshes. The pools of water, that stand in the troughs and dimples, are salt to the taste : vet the herbage is highly saccharine. It consists, chiefly, of a short, rigid, bristly grass, like the hard and sheep's fescues. Being, at the time I saw it, short, without seed stems, thin on the ground, and standing erect, the surface looked bald, and brown, almost, as a fallow. Nevertheless, these lands are said to carry about two sheep, an acre ; to fat them very fast ; and, in no case, to taint them with the rot.

This last is a fact which ought to be duly estimated, by every one, who attempts to explain the nature of that fatal disorder.

CATTLE. This is not a breeding dis- trict. The few dairy cows, I observed, were of various breeds ; as Alderney, Welch,

SEA COAST OF StJSSEX. 341

Sussex. Of the last, however, I saw few. So that the middle-horned variety is con- fined, between the two lines of Chalk Hills. See Weald of Kent, Vol. I. page 350.

The fatting cattle, which I saw, on the western bank of the Arun, were like- wise of different breeds ; but, in general, of a superior quality : as East Sussex oxen of the largest and best mold ; worth to the grazier, as lean cattle, fifteen to eighteen pounds, a bullock, in 1791 : also Pembroke- shire oxen of the first description ; with some "West Country" oxen — apparently of Somersetshire — of a good quality.

These bullocks are chiefly purchased, and many of them sold when fatted, at fairs or stock markets, held every fortnight in the grazing season, at Chichester, and Arundel.

Of the SHEEP of this District I saw little. When I went over it, in May, the lambs were gone to market ; and, in the beginning of October, the fresh stock of ewes had not arrived. The practice, with respect to early lambs, I understand, is nearly the same, here, as in the District of Petworth.

The sheep which I saw, in the grazing grounds, were chiefly wedders, of the West -

vol. 11. R

242 AGRICULTURE.

Down breed. There are none, I believe, reared within the District.

SWINE. The breed, which I observed most prevalent, here, is the mottled one, that is common to Berkshire, Hampshire, and Surrey ; with a mixture of the Chinese, or other Oriental breed.

The only circumstance, that drew my notice, to this species of livestock, in the passage of country under view, was that of seeing them, in the middle of May, scat- tered over its area, in herds, away from ha- bitations, feeding on clover, tares, or other herbage, as a species of pasture stock. Here, sows not only farrow, in the fields, but are said to rear their fares, there, on herbage and water alone !

Remarks. Possibly, there is something in the nature of these rich lands, peculiarly favorable to this species of stock. And the practice of treating them, as mere grami- nivorous animals, having gained an esta- blishment, here, proceeded by degrees, along the banks of the Arun, until it reached the district last treated of; where, meeting with a less fertile soil, it is confined to the brook- lands. See page 203.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 243

STATE OF HUSBANDRY. In the

foregoing sketch, the management of this District appears, in a favorable point of view; and, I believe, in its true light. The lands, in every part, that I more particu- larly observed, were free from offensive foul- ness, and appeared to be in a good state of tillage : yet the quantity of tillage given, I understand, is not great.

Remarks. The husbandly state, in which this District, in general lies, is probably owing to the absorbency of the soils, and the depth of plowing, which appears to be com- mon to the District, and which serves to increase their absorbency ; as well as to the rankness of the crops it bears. The soil, it is said, is " not given to couch." It cer- tainly is peculiarly free, from this pest of arable land. And even couch grass, though present, may not flourish, in a soil which bears a rank,close,thickset crop, every year, or whenever it is not undergoing a course of tillage, or cleansing crop. It is thin, weak crops, which give encouragement to couch. Nevertheless, there may be some- thing in these marine lands, that is un- friendly to this weed.

R2

244 AGRICULTURE.

IMPROVEMENT. There are very few Districts, in which I have seen less to mend, than in the highly favored District under view. Measuring it by common rules, there is evidently a want of grass land, of natural or cultivated herbage, in the area of the principal flat. But a country capable of bearing five quarters of wheat, an acre, every second year, may require its own plan of management. Nevertheless, I am of opinion, that were more land kept in a state of herbage ; and, in consequence, a greater number of livestock maintained, the natural fertility of the soil might be rendered more durable, than it probably will be, by the present exhausting course of management.

This being as it may, there is one great and evident improvement, to be made, on this passage of country : that of rendering

it HEALTHY.

I do not mean to represent the Sea Coast of Sussex, as being very unhealthy. It is but common policy, in those who occupy its lands, to speak of it, as being so. But there are, in reality perhaps, few arable dis-

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 245

tricts, of equal extent, that do not enjoy a better air.

It has been suggested, that the degree of insalubrity which belongs to it, be it more or less, proceeds from the stagnant waters, that are suffered to remain, within its area. These waters, not only encourage the pro- duction of insects, and reptiles, whose pu- trid remains pollute the air, in summer; but they tend to load it with chilling vapors, in the cooler months. If these are not the sole causes of its present unwholesomeness, no one will deny that they contribute to it.

To do away entirely, every appearance of stagnant water, from so flat a surface, might be found difficult. Yet, I am of opinion, that, by pursuing evident and known prin- ciples, every difficulty might be so far over- come, as to render the entire District freer from surface water, than vale districts, in general, are.

An ACT OF DRAINAGE, with COMMIS- SIONERS to see it executed, would, in course, be the first step to be taken* If merely

* Since these remarks were written, I have been in- formed that such commissioners are already empowered.

246 AGRICULTURE.

scoweri ng the brooks and the rivulets, from the estuary or the sluice, up to the ditches and water furrows of the plowed lands, were found insufficient, to draw off the surplus of the water, which falls on the surface, draining mills should be employ- ed, to quicken the draught. Tide mills, of a simple construction, might be employed to empty the receiving canals (if necessarv) into the estuaries, and the ordinary wind mill of the Eastern Counties* might be made to throw it, with equal facility, into those receptacles ; if such should be found necessary.

Filling up the present water fences, and every other unnecessary lodgement, and by these means, giving a free current to rain water, from the interfurrows in which it is collected, to the sea, would be the ultimate object, and the completion of the under- taking.

The cost of this improvement, even sup- posing it to require two sets of mills, would be inconsiderable, compared with the rental value of this plot of rich country. Even humanity, towards the lower class of inha- * See Norfolk, Vol. II. p. 282.

SEA COAST OF SUSSEX. 247

bitants, zvho, by the laws of their country, are bound to abide by it, is a sufficient induce- ment, to effect it. And the increase of the rents of lands might repay the cost, with tenfold interest. Perhaps, one set of mills, to raise the waters, at the sluices, and throw it into the estuaries, or the sea, would be found abundantly sufficient to effect the required improvement.

THE ISLE

OF

WIGHT.

IN THE MONTH of October, 1791, in my way from Sussex to Devonshire, I spent a week, on the Isle of Wight ; and not only saw, but literally traversed, almost every square mile of its surface ; by the following routes. From Ryde, by Wotton Bridge, to Newport. Newport to St. Catherine's, Nighton, St. Laurence (under Cliff;) back, by Appuldurcomb and Godshill, to New- port. Newport, by Atherton and Ashey Downs, to Brading; back (on the opposite side of the valley) by Sandown Marshes and Fort, Lake, Shanklin (parish,) and Ather- ton, to Newport. Newport, by Caersbrook and along the Downs, to near Freshwater ; back by Thorlcy (near Yarmouth) Wellow,

ISLE OF WIGHT. 249

Green, Shafleet, Newtown, and across the forest, to Newport. Newport, byGatcomb, and Chale (at " the Back of the Island") Athersfield, Brixton, &c. ; and back across Brixton Downs, by Idlecomb and Caers- brook, to Newport. And, beside these lengthened rides, I examined, more leisure- ly, the neighbourhood of Newport ; finally, tracing the line of country, between New- port and Covves.

The SITUATION of the Isle of Wight is so well known, as not to require descrip- tion, here. It is, pretty evidently, a frag- ment, torn from the main land, in some violent struggle of contending elements. Not only the outlines, but the lands, on either side of the narrow sea which now separates them, answer to each other.

At present, it forms part of the county of Southampton ; to which it has long been joined, politically, and to which, by situa- tion, it naturally belongs.

The EXTENT, supposing it equal to a circle of fifteen miles in diameter, is one hundred and seventyfive square miles ; or one hundred and ten thousand acres.

In ELEVATION, the Isle of Wight exceeds most, or all, the British Isles, of

25o DISTRICT.

equal extent. The chalk cliffs of Fresh- water, and the rocky heights of St. Cathe- rine, vie with the cliffs of Dover. Never- theless, the north side of the Island, towards the main land, is comparatively low ground. But it is, and ever has been, out of the wa- ter's way ; except at the eastern extremity, about Brading, where there are some wa- terformed marsh lands.

Its SURFACE is strongly featured ; but no where broken, or rugged ; excepting the sea cliffs, to the south and west ; and excepting some grotesque sandy hillocks, in the valley between Sandown and New- port. There is, nevertheless, peculiar va- riety, in the configuration of this valuable little fragment : a fair specimen of Albion's fair self. It might, with little latitude, be said to possess every distinguishing charac- ter of the parent Island : bearing its very semblance, in the species and variety of its surface, its soils, and their productions.

What gives greater variety, to the face of this little Island, is a natural bisection ; occasioned by a deep narrow valley, which divides it, into two nearly equal parts.

Through the middle of the western divi- sion runs a range of chalk hills, terminating

ISLE OF WIGHT. 25l

in the Freshwater or Needle -Cliffs. The north side of this " hog's back/' or ridge of naked downs, shelves, with an easy slope, to a flat vale country ; resembling the vale lands of Kent, Sussex, and various parts of England.

To the south of these hills, lies a singu- lar plot of country, called " the Back of the Island:" comprizing about ten square miles of sandy lands ; lying in two stages. The upper stage, at the immediate skirts of the Chalk Hills, has a billowy, varied sur- face, with a weak unproductive soil ; the lower, is a flat of rich productive sandy loam. Yet, even this, lies twenty, thirty, or in some places, perhaps, forty feet above the tide : exposing a steep broken cliff; liable to be worn away, by tempestuous seas.

The eastern division is still more diversi- fied. The center is occupied by a chalk swell, (Ashey Down) : but it is of small extent, and tame, comparatively with the western heights. To the north of this, is a weak cold woodland district ; varying however in soil and surface ; much resem- bling the upland parts of the wild of Kent and Sussex. See Vol. I. p. 336.

252 DISTRICT.

To the south of Ashey Down, lies the Valley of Sandown, or Brading, which has been noticed, and which reaches from near the center, to the eastern extremi- ty of the Island ; where it terminates in a barren gravelly flat, round Sandown fort, with marshes and mudbanks below Brading. Thence, along the coast, bv St. Helen's, to Ryde, is an upland, well soiled line of country.

On the south of Sandown Valley, the face of the country rises, with a bold ascent, to the heights of St. Chatherine ; or rather a chain of heights, which reach from thence to Dunnose; appearing with strong moun- tain features ; large rotund knolls, sepa- rated, by deep sunk vallies, and coombs ; and, towards the sea, by gashes of an ex- traordinary kind ; — provincially "chines"; — resembling the fissures, or dingles, of mountain scenery ; and, like these, probably, have been worn by the waters of heavy rains, rushing headlong down the steeps.

This range of heights is cut off, towards the sea, by a line of high perpendicular cliff; at whose feet lies an extraordinary passage of country : a narrow slip, it is true ; but of sufficient extent, to have en-

ISLE OF WIGHT. 253

gaged ecclesiastic attention ; the church of St. Laurence standing on this peculiar site. Judging from the ruggedness of the sur- face, and the want of soil, or sediment of superincumbent foul waters, on some of its protuberating rocky parts ; as well as the height, which it rises above the tide, and which varies from ten to thirty or forty feet ; seeing, likewise, the height of the cliffs, above it ; perhaps two hundred feet ;* and the materials of which they are formed ; namely rock ; and apparently of a similar nature with the large fragments which lie at their feet ; — there can be little doubt of its having been formed, by the fracture and fall of the face of the cliff; — the sea having, in all human probability, first un-

* This estimate may be too high. The eye is liable to be deceived, by an association of objects, and to be led astray, as well as to be set right, by com- parison. This Islet being small, its hills and its vallies are comparatively large. The hill of St. Ca- therine seen from the environs of Newport, appears a very mountain rising to the clouds ; yet the ascent to it is easy, and it is surmounted without difficulty ; and is, in truth, a mere hillock, compared with the interior hills of England.

254 DISTRICT.

dermined it ; by washing out an earthy stratum, at the base.

This being as it may, I have no where observed, so great a variety of fossil, and vegetable productions, within so small a compass. The rock is of varied quality, and seamed with earths of different appear- ances. In a dry wall, which had recently been built, with the fragments of the dis- persed rock, scarcely two stones appeared to possess the same component parts ; the variety seemed endless. Out of the face of the cliff, shrubs and herbaceous plants are seen, in great abundance ; and, to the eye glancing over them, the species appear nu- merous. In the cryptogamia tribes, this passage seems equally prolific. The rup- ture would, of course, disclose many seeds, that had been locked up from the atmo- sphere, from the day the present surface of the earth was formed, to the time of the fracture ; and, add to this, not only the marine plants, natural to the shore, but other plants, partially irrigated with the spray of salt water, may increase the va- riety. So that the passage of surface, under

ISLE OF WIGHT. 255

view, is not only interesting to the geolo- gist, but is worthy of the more minute researches of the naturalist.

The CLIMATURE, from what infor- mation I gathered, is forward ; and appears genial to vegetation ; except to that of trees, on the more exposed heights, and on the south side of the Island ; where the few that are seen, are shorn, in a remarkable man- ner, by the southwest winds. On the Back of the Island (which lies fully exposed to these winds) even the hedges are cut, and in great part perished.

It is nevertheless observable, that a shrub- bery, containing exotic plants, on the bor- der of Sandown flat, and fully exposed to the sea, appeared to be in a luxuriant state of growth. But Sandown Cottage (the late Mr. Wilkes's) like Mount Edgecumbe, has a skreen of high land, on the southwest ; and it is not, I apprehend, sea air, so much as an unbroken, unabating current, which is unfriendly to vegetation. See the West of England, Vol. II. page 35.

The surface WATERS are collected, chiefly, by two small rivers, or well sized brooks ; both of them rising out of the

256 DISTRICT.

rocky heights of St. Catherine. One of them passes down the sandy valley, toBrad- ing, at the eastern extremity of the Island ; the other, down the valley which bisects it, by Newport, to Cowes ; between which, it takes the form of a winding, riverlike estuary.

SOILS and SUBSTRATA. A general idea, of the soils of this Island, has been conveyed, in speaking of its surface. The particulars will best appear, in the following extracts from my Journal.

Ryde Ferry to Nezvport* On the coast, and in the vallies about Wotton Bridge, &c. the soil is apparently strong: good wheat land. But, towards Newport, it is a thin- ner, leaner, woodland soil. The subsoil, in some parts, gravel : in others, a light- colored stone rises to near the surface ; large quarries being now worked ; appa- rently, for building materials.

Newport to St. Catherine's, under Cliff, &c. The soils, in this ride, are as various, as the casts of surface. On the brink of the cliff, near Nighton, half the cultivated stratum is stones ; a sort of impure flints ; and the

* See the different routes, in page 248.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 257

higher swells, in general, seem to be of a calcareous nature ; though little chalk ap- pears, in this quarter of the Island. Black Down, on the contrary, is a direct heath : black vegetable mold, on sand or gravel : a plot of the morelands of Yorkshire, or of the heaths of Surrey, thrown in, here, as it were to show from whence the Isle was taken : this being, I believe, the only plot of heath land it contains.

Newport to Brading{a\ong Ashey Down.) The soil and subsoil, the very same, as those of every other light, thin-soiled, chalky down, in the kingdom.

Sandown to Newport. The whole way, eight or ten miles (and perhaps three or four miles in width) exhibits a light sandy soil. To the eastward, very barren, but not heathy. Towards Newport, it is more fertile : tolerably good turnep and barley land. The subsoil, to the east, a thirsty, hungry sand : to the west, a flinty gra- vel.

Newport to Freshwater. An uninter- rupted covering of calcareous loam; mostly of a pale chalky quality ; excepting a few plots, of a stronger texture, and darker

vol. 11. S

258 DISTRICT.

color ; as is seen on the uppermost swells of most, or all, chalk hills !

Freshwater, by Newtown, to Newport. The soil, almost everywhere throughout the flat, is cold and ungenial. Immediately at the feet of the hills, towards Yarmouth, it is singularly so. The ley grounds are overgrown with coltsfoot, horsetail, and other cold-soil weeds ; with scarcely a blade or leaf of profitable herbage. Neverthe- less, the soil itself has a fertile appearance : to the eye, the very coomb of the District of Maidstone ! And though analysis might detect differential qualities, its extreme in- fertility is doubtless occasioned, by the sub- soil, on which it rests ; — a bed of clay.

Newport to the Back of the Island. The finest township of land I have passed through is that of Gatcom b (in the valley above New- port) : much powerful generous land, pro- ductive of corn or grass. The sea-coast flat, is uniformly sand ; except a plot, be- low Brixton ; a strong retentive soil : the sand, too, varies in fertility. Some of the rising grounds appear to be light, and unproductive ; while other parts, about Athersfield and Brixton, if one may judge,

ISLE OF WIGHT. 259

from the wheat stubbles, now upon them, areofadesireable quality;— charming arable land. The substrata of this flat, as seen from the sea shore, are various. The im- mediate subsoil is uniformly sand, or light sandy loam ; — in most places, reaching three or four feet deep. Below this, in one place, that I more particularly examined, are strata of stones, and colored earths; in another, a deep bed of blue clay. The whole liable to be torn away by the waves ; the several strata now appearing fresh and distinct, in the face of a perpendicular cliff, ten to thirty or more feet high.

Eastward of Newport. How various the soil. The hang of the swell, towards the town, is a rich unctuous clay ; the top of the hill, cold, pale, gluey, and unproduc- tive. The slope, to the eastward, especially towards the bottom, a light, sandy, gra- velly soil ; but with a cold retentive base ; the last a characteristic, which seems pretty common, to the northeast quarter of the Island.

Newport to Cowes and its environs. Mostly a gravelly loam ; the lower lands, appa- rently, of a stout productive nature: but S 2

r6o DISTRICT.

the ris;.:i2: grounds, above ( :.re\vea:

part. iore of the cold Weald lands, of

north. . quarter. The substra-

tum r.. gravel: in some places, eight

or ten feet deep of clean road gravel .

In this detail, we see the diversity of lands, occupy the surface of this Isle, and are enabled to font gone judgment of their separate and average values. In the neigh- bourhood of Newport, in the valley above it. and in the flat of the southern coa^ also on some of the hills or uplands, parti- cularly those of Nighton, and in different parts of the northeast quarter, we find lands of But these make only a

.all portion of the lands of the Island; and are far exceeded, in quantity, by those l are weak, and under -productive. The quantity of barren land, however, inconsiderable. On the whole, it may be said, thai there are few cultivated d'u in England, of equal extent, whose lands, collectively, are not of equal, or superior fertility, to those of the Isle of Wight.

INHABITANTS. Those who may have

attended to the exports of corn, from the

e of Wighl doubt the accuracy of

ISLE OF WIGHT. 361

the above statement, respecting the produc- tiveness of its soils. But its surplus produce is to be accounted for, in the fewness of its inhabitants, proportionably to the quantity of its arable lands. There is no manufac- tory, of any extent, in the Isle : nor any place of commerce ; except Cowes ; which, as such, is inconsiderable. The town of Newport may be considered, merely, as the residence of tradespeople, to supply the country with extraneous products : and, in traversing the country itself, it everywhere appears to be thinly inhabited ; the villages small, and widely scattered : except at the Back of the Island, which has been, and in- deed still is, fully inhabited ; though its inhabitants may, lately, have considerably decreased.*

Seeing this, it naturally occurs to an agri- cultural mind, to inquire, how its harvests are got in ? the answer is, by the assistance of " miners," from the West of England.

* Back of the Island. The notice on my Jour- nal, respecting the population of this passage, stands as follows. " Inhabitants: — seemingly few: large farms, and small villages : Kingston is a mere hamlet. Town- skips: — yet, if one may judge from the number of town-

DISTRICT.

The present inhabitants, of this de- lightful little morsel of earth, are most re- spectable. There are several residences of gentlemen ; and some very old families, that have long been rooted, here. The yeomanry, the larger farmers, and the middle class, throughout, are superior to those of most parts of England, in their appearance, and manners. I had a good Opportunity of seeing a large proportion of them collected, at Newport, on one of these occasions, which must, in the nature of curiosity and fashion, bring the whole Island together, — a plav. The lower or- ders, too, are well personed, intelligent, and decent in their manners. Those of the Back of the Island, perhaps, are lea. Indeed,

they are spoken of, by their more refined neighbours, as a distinct race ; as the simple inhabitants of the back settlements ; who

ships, this plot of countr) has czict been populous:

being, still, six churches in it : an»! i: rablv, had

several more; as Walham, Athersfield, S

Yexford, &c. This recluse and easily culrurable spot,

was probably cultivated, early ; and heretofor. .

supported many times I

biu.v,

ISLE OF WIGHT. a63

live chiefly among themselves ; seldom mak- ing their appearance, even at the capital ; and rarely setting a foot off the Island.

The TOWNSHIPS are unequal, in size; or the churches are unequally distributed : the Back of the Island, and the western flat towards Yarmouth, containing not more than twenty square miles of surface, com- prize near half the parishes of the Island, which contains near ten times that extent,. The Downs, however, which separate them,, are probably laid to these lowland town- ships.

The towns of Newport and Comes have been noticed. The former is a respectable market town, and happily situated: on good land, in the center of the Island, yet within the reach of the tide : the latter a mean sea port. The town of Tar mouthy which I ap- proached, but did not enter, appears to be little more than a village, or fishing town ; and that oiNewtoivn (another borough /) is a mere hamlet ; the ruins of the church lying on a narrow headland, between two creeks, in a low, damp, dirty situation ; which was probably chosen, while the flat in which it lies, was in a wild woody state, by pirates.

DISTRICT.

or freebooters ; and which is of course de- serted, in a state of civilized society.

ROADS. In 1791, they lay in their ?ia- tural, flat state : there was not a turnpike, or a raised road, in the Island , unless be- tween Nev\ port and Cowes. Nevertheless, the cross-countrv roads were travelabie, wi:h carriages ; though it has been but of late years, thev have been made so. A middle- aged man remembered there being only one chaise, and that for a single horse, in the Island ! Now. even quartering carriages are common.

The way reeves of the Isle of Wight have hit upon a simple, and cheap method, of forming ouarterings, in hollow ways, and difficult places, where there was only one narrow waggon track. In these cases, they have merelv pared away the bank, on one side, about two feet wide ; so as to form a horse track, for one of the quartering horses to tread , the other taking the be. idle

path of the waggon track. Bv ; _ady

alteration ; by filling in the ruts, and horse tracks, with hard materials ; and paying some attention to the offlets of water ; the roads, in general, are kept in a fit to

ISLE OF WIGHT. 265

be travelled, by carriages of every kind ; without toll; and without excessive cost to the country.

STATE OF INCLOSURE. The chalk hills are, here, as they are almost every- where, open. I observed only one break, or large inclosure, upon the West Downs. But the lower margins, or skirts, towards Caersbrook, are inclosed.

The stoney heights appear to be mostly divided, into large inclosures ; except the rich uplands of Nighton, which lie in a state of open field.

The rest of the Island is inclosed ; and mostly in well sized fields ; except " the forest/' an extensive tract of wild lands, in the northwest quarter ; and except a suite of commons, in the northeast division, between Newport and Wotton Bridge; and these were, in 1791, progressively under- going the profitable change, from a state of rough, unproductive, wet, unhealthy com- mons, to that of drained and cultivated in- closures: not, however, by calling in the costly aid of Parliament ; but by general con- sent . a strong evidence of the happy state of society, which this little Island enjoys.

:• ;■■'. DISTRICT.

The fences of these inclosures are mos or have been, of live shrubs. Many of them are old, as if they had originated in the na- tural brushwood of the wild lands, and are now wearing out ; requiring to be plashed and pruned, to prolong their duration. At the Back of the Island, most of the fences are mere earth walls, or narrow mounds, co- vered with brambles ; the perennial shrubs, er present, having been cut off, entirely, bv the southwest winds (to which they are fully exposed) ; probably for want of being kept down, in a low, thick, bushy state.

the eastern division of the Island, there are many young hedges ; some of recent inclosures ; the woods mostly hawthorn , , in a few instances, privet (ligustrum rulgare, — the North-American hedgewood ) which, if kept pruned down, low, and dwarfish, makes a close, tolerably secure, and sightly fence.

Ln one or more instances, I observed, on the most barren sandy lands, the furze, kept down, in a low brushy form, with good effect.

On the more bleakly exposed sites, I saw the elder flourishing in the character of a

ISLE OF WIGHT. 267

hedge wood ; as I have heretofore seen it, on the high wolds of Yorkshire.

In most parts of the Island, the hedges of lanes are kept down, to the proper fence height, and, in many places, the hedges, between farm inclosures, are treated in a similar manner.

At the Back of the Island, where this precaution is most wanted, it seems to be the most neglected. Perhaps, sloes, dib- bled on the tops, and sides, of the naked moundlets, of that District, would grow, bind the banks together, and give a perpe- tual fence at a small cost.

The ordinary field gate, of the Island, is merely a strong bar hurdle ; with a stout stake at either end, by way of posts. This is a cheap means of communication. But it is not sightly, nor can it be secure, against resolute stock.

The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS are, chieity, cultivated crops, and sheep pas- ture; with a portion of woodlands; some furze grounds; and an extent of

ROUGH COMMONABLE LANDS; but With Very

little lowland pasture, or meadow land; except in the environs of Cowes and New-

26S DISTRICT.

port. And the marsh and ten lands, at the east end of the Island, are of small extent.

The woodlands are chiefly confined, to the northeast quarter of the Island : of which near one third. I apprehend, is in a state of wood : the values are mostly tilled with timber oaks ; but, in general, they are mossy and of a stinted growth. In the northwest quarter, which is equally, or bet- ter adapted, to the growth of oak timber, trees are still more affected, by the cold un- broken blasts from the sea ; and this may

unt for the comparative smallness of quantity, in this Oakland part. Over the rest of the Island, there are few, if any zi'Oodld?ids. unless about the larger resi- and very little bedgtfoyi timber. On the upper grounds, or even on the flat at the Back of the Island, there is scarcely a

; except a few decrepit, half-perished elms, about villages, or the larger farm-

ds. VIEWS. From the latter part of this description, it may be conceived, that the Lie of Wight is destitute of picturable ef- fect ; and, in some parts, it certainty is no extent of country is uniformly beautiful.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 269

But, whether the Isle of Wight be consi- dered, as a passage, interesting in itself, or as a place of view, commanding distant scenery; it is capable of conveying* — to the mind of an Englishman, whose taste is not so far vitiated, as to render him incapable of be'm<y. gratified, by the beautiful assem- blage of features which may frequently be caught in the face of his own country, — a high degree of gratification.

The internal beauties of the Isle are chiefly commanded (or might be) from a single point of view : the summit of the knoll, which rises to the east of Newport. The entire circle is highly interesting. The finely surfaced and wooded quarter, to the northeast, with Spithead in the first dis- tance, and the hills of Hampshire and Sus- sex, in the offscape, form a broad, but ne- vertheless, a rich and beautiful view. More to the right, the valley kof Brading, with its rugged hillocks, skreened, on the right, by the heights of St. Catherine, with the grounds of Appuldurcomb, hanging on their steep and strongly featured surface, and dis- tanced by the sea, compose a charming pic- ture. Further to the right, the valley of

:-o DISTRICT.

Gatcomb affords a sweet home view ; and still further, the well featured rising grounds, the environs of Caersbrook,with the remains of its castle, are finely picturable.

The remaining compartment of the circle is filled with a broader view ; less adapted, perhaps, to the pencil ; but more capable of expanding, and filling with grateful and li- beral sentiments, the mind of him who con- templates it. The near ground, of this view, is the steep-sided valley, below Newport ; with its river-form estuary, serpentining, in a happy manner, to its conflux with the narrow sea, that separates it from the New Forest : which, with the estuary of South- ampton, fill the center of the view ; the hills of Winchester rising in the distance. The rich and varied country, on either hand, spread their fair and ample surfaces ; without intruding side skreens, to abridge the view ; and rob the eye of its enjoy- ments.

In the deep narrow dells, and folding ridges, of the southern heights, much inte- resting scenerv may be caught, and more might be induced. And, in the chines and rockv cliffs, of these heights, those who

ISLE OF WIGHT. 271

delight in the deformities and mutilations of nature (for they can scarcely be called nature's own productions) may gratify the eye, and find employment for the pencil.

Of wider views, there are two remark- able points ; one in the east, the other in the western division of the Island. The foot of the land mark, on Ashey Down, affords the first. From this point, the an- chorings of St. Helen's and Spithead, with the singular intermixture of land and water, in the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, back- ed by the Hampshire and Sussex Downs, are well commanded.

The other point is on Brixton Down ; — a little above the barrow, in #Tiose bowels an ingenious shepherd has found a snug retreat. From this point the entire Island is overlooked : the eye ranging with free- dom, over almost every part of its surface : while, on one hand, a boundless sea view, or bounded only by its own convexity, pre- sents itself; and, on the other hand, land- scapes, whose boundaries also are left, for the imagination to fix. The principal part of Dorsetshire, part of Wiltshire, and the en- tire southern declivities of Hampshire and

2-jz DISTRICT.

Sussex, with the distant Isles of Selsey and Portland, are delineated, in a vast map; drawn by Nature's unerring pencil ; and communicating to the mind sensations, and impressions, which all the maps and land- scapes, of men's making, are unable to pro- duce.

Remarks. I have here detailed the more striking views of the Isle of Wight : not merely on account of their beauty or su- blimity, abstractedly considered ; but also because they are capable of being rendered useful, to the great end, for which I have long been laboring. — The permanent im- provement, and lasting prosperity of the country.

The occupiers of lands, as men of every other profession and rank in life, require re- laxation. And although the needy husband- man, borne down, perhaps, by an excessive rent, exorbitant tithe and taxes, and a nume- rous family, may be doomed to constant labor, and unremitted attention, there is a class of men, — by whom the major part of the lands of this kingdom are, at present, oc- cupied,— to whom its improved state of agri- culture is owing, — and in whose exertions.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 273

properly directed, the country has to look for farther melioration, — who are entitled to recreation, — who do, and will, partake of amusements ; and it becomes those who are desirous to promote the public welfare, to direct them to such objects, as will at once amuse and instruct.

A man who has never crossed the bounds of his native parish, unless in his way to market, may manage well enough, accord- ing to the established practice of his neigh- bourhood. But little hope of improvement can be placed in him. His mind requires first to be improved. And this cannot be more readily, and effectually done, than by conducting him beyond the sphere of his education ; and there showing him that the same end is obtainable by different means : thus leading him insensibly to consider, whether his own means are the best ; or whether those which he has seen, are pre- ferable : and out of the comparison may possibly arise those which are more eli- gible than either. Indeed, it is scarcely possible, that a professional man, who has been early initiated in the habits of culti- vation, should view an extent of cultivated

vol. u. T

:-, DISTRICT.

country, with- *ne profitable

impression, — v< ng his concep

.!, his judgment _:hened.

emulation r mind bent tov

the improvement of his native prac:

AGR ICU LTU R E.

FARMS. The CHARACTERISTl ms,

here, is arable; with sbeep doom, to those which lie contiguous to the Chalk H.

The size is larg I [any capital farms are seen, in different parts of the Island. And, in no part, except perhaps in the Yar- mouth quarter, are small ones observable : even the Back of the Island, which. memory, had numerous small holding now bid into those oi a larg : many

a poor man h:. = ot far

left.

This, however, in a public light, might be righ not the principle over-

ed : farms of a moderate size, doub" send more produce to market, than

ISLE OF WIGHT. 2?s

same land could, in small holdings, in the hands of the indigent. Principles, in o-e- neral, are good or bad, as they are properly, or improperly applied. In this, and other parts of the Island, farms have not only been enlarged, by an aggregation of small ones ; but such as were already of sufficient size, and which had suitable buildings, and arrangements, for men of capital and spirit, to exert them, are no longer the respect- able residences of such men ; but are either wholly deserted, or some corner of the buildings is fitted up, for a bailiff, or upper servant.

^ Remarks. A plurality of farms, as of livings, is bad. One man, holding three or four well sized farms, as some men in this Island, I understand, do, and as many men, in different parts of the kingdom, certainly do, and these, perhaps, lying at a distance from each other, cannot pay due attention to the whole. It may answer the purpose of an individual, as there is only one, in- stead of three or four families, to be sup- ported, by the same extent of land ; but, in the deficiency and waste of produce, which, in the nature of the rural profession, will

T 2

2-6 AGRICULTURE.

unavoidably take place, the community come losers.

SERVANTS. The same inoonvei and the serious evil to the communis. . may sometimes result from it, is obs. here, as in Sussex. When I went over Island, the wheat sowing was nearly a: a stand ; though the season was unusually fa- vorable, for this important operation ; which the price of bread is nearly c nected. Surely, the custom of changing

FARM SERVANTS, at M ICH AELM AS, ling!/

broken through: especially in the Isle of Wight, where a principal part of them are employed, by so few individuals.

BEASTS OF DRAFT. Mostly roh A few oxen are worked ; but chiefly, I be- lieve, by gentlemen, or improving fan:: and not in the ordinary practice of the Isle. The plea, for not using them, is a want of grass: not being aware, that working oxen, at least, should be fed in their stalls, with cultivated herbage, green or dry, the year round; or whenever they are in full work.*

The plow team is four heavy horses: — even on the lighter lands! in a state of fal- * 5cc Minutes of Agriculture, in Surrey.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 277

low ! ! An insufferable practice, which may be said to be common to the Southern Counties.

Tlie road team is of five horses. I saw near twenty teams of this length, collected together, at Newport market. Mostly thick, good horses, in high condition.

IMPLEMENTS. The plow of the Isle of Wight appears to be uniform, through-* out the Island ; and corresponds, nearly, or exactly, with that of the Hampshire and Wiltshire hills, which will be noticed, in the next district. It has two wheels of dif-^ fcrent sizes; that which runs in the furrow being the highest. Its coulter is crooked ; has a bend, below the beam; that its blade may range (as it ought) with the sheath, breast, or stem of the plow ; and its plate, or moldboard, instead of being convex, or bulging forward, like that of the Yorkshire, or modern plow, is every way hollow ! How infinitely various, at present, is the construc- tion of this most valuable of human inven- tions !

Its waggon, too, is that of the western division of the Chalk Hills. It is large, and runs wide ; five feet nine inches being

AGRICULTURE.

the common distance. I believe, betwee:. middles of the ruts.

OBJECTS OF HUSBANDRY. The two principal articles of etable pro-

duce are corn and sheep. Cattle and dairy produce are subordinate

however, appear to be in great number. And, en the stoney heights, some rabbits are seen. Also a tew breeding horses, on the appropriated lands ; with wild ponies, in t it.

CROPS in CULTIVATION. The c -KETable crc? is wheat. In the middle of October, an extraord proportion

sown ; or the grcu. . then, |

pared for the operation ; and, chiefly, by fallowing-- Barley also, judi I the

k, and the reports of infor- mants, is a pre va. ling crc on the cold lands, on the north side of the Of oats I sa \nce ; of peas only one small rick ; and 01 beams, only one stubble. But others might ha\ e then broken up, and in fallow, or escaped hoi

Oi ex :icps, for the support of

farm stock, the herbage of sheep downs is not the least considerable. These are mostly

ISLE OF WIGHT. 279

in clean fine turf; except on the summits of some of tne higher swells ; which are fouled with furze, and a little heath ; in the same manner, as those of Wiltshire and Yorkshire! Owing, perhaps, to their being capped with the same cold weak soil, as the tops of other chalk hills.

Turncps mav be considered, as the next object of farm expenditure. In 1791, there appeared a large proportion of this crop ; but, mostly, under vile management.

Of clover, also, some considerable pro- portion appeared ; but of temporary ley grounds very few, indeed ; and of lowland grass, either in a state of pasture, or of mowing ground, the proportion, as has been said, is very small.

As a substitute for pasture lands, and especially as green stable food, for work- ing horses, tares, I understand, are culti- vated in great quantity. Even in the middle of October, I observed (at a distance) some tall green herbage (apparently oats) cut- ting ; and doubtless for this purpose. An instance of sowing winter tares, with black oats, as supporters, occurred to me : and the reason given for sowing black, in pre-

28o AGRICULTURE.

ference to white, oats was, that they are less liable to be cut off, by frosts: and this may be a fact.

The most extraordinary circumstance, which arose, in examining the crops of the Isle of Wight, is that not an acre, nor even a plant, of sainfoin met the eve ! even on the whole extent of calcareous lands, that I traversed ! I do not mean to assert, that there is no one instance of sainfoin being grown, in the Island. But, from the in- quiries made, I learnt that there was, in - 1, very little, if any, then growing!! and the reason given, for this neglect of it, was, that " it soon goes off": an extraordi- nary circumstance, (seeing the nature of the soil) which is only to be explained, in the calcareous lands o{ this Island having been repeatedly cropped, with this valuable plant; or by some impropriety, in the manage^ ment of the growing crop. See Gloces- iershike, — District of Maidstone, &e. With respect to PARTICULARS! OF MANAGEMENT, though I find many on my Journals I am not prepared with a de- tail : nor may the practice of the Isi.e of Wight require one. Its weald lands re-

ISLE OF WIGHT. 281

semble, in soil and management, those of the Wealds of Kent and Sussex ; its sandy loams, and sheep economy, those of the Di- strict of Petworth, and the Sea Coast of Sussex ; and its Chalk Hills, as well as the principal implements in use, throughout the Island, are the same as those of the hills of Wiltshire, and Hampshire; and will be particularized, in the next part of this Volume; — the Western Division of the Chalk Hills.

Therefore, all I shall offer further, in this part, will be a few notices, respecting cattle, and sheep: with a general view of the present state of husbandry ; and such few suggestions of improvement, as aptly rise out of it.

CATTLE. The breed of the Isle of Wight (if it can be said to have one) is a compleat medley. Its original stamina, or bases, are evidently the Alderney, Norman, orFRENCH breed, and the Devonshire, West Country, or English breed ; and a few un- debased individuals, of each of these breeds, are seen ; having doubtless been imported : for those which are bred in the Island are of the first description. I saw several small

282 AGRICULTURE.

parcels of voung s*ock, in different parts of the vale districts, on the north side of the Isle ; and all of them were of base blood ; mongrels of low degeneracy. In one herd, the sire appeared, in all the deformity, which crossing, with distinct and widely estra:. varieties, is capable o'i producing.

Remarks on breeding. The cattle of this Island strongly evince the impropriety of mixing alien varieties . The first pro- duce of distinct varieties, as of distinct spe- cies, is frequently a valuable MULE. But though the mules of varieties are permitted to propagate, and in this differ from the mules of distinct species; yet, judging from the observations which I have made, in dif- ferent parts of the kingdom, as well as from the meager, ill formed creatures, that are seen in the Island under view, thev pro- pagate a degenerate race.

The descriptions of cattle, seen in the Isle of Wight, beside the few oxen that are worked, are dairy cows, — some rearing a (as has been mentioned ) and, in the marshes, at the east end of the Island, I observed a few fatting eattle. But, on the whole, the number is evidently small; and out of pro-

ISLE OF WIGHT. 283

portion, with the arable lands. The waste of straw must, in course, be great.

The dairy produce of the Island is butter ; for Portsmouth, and its own mar- kets; and skim cheese; for the laboring class. This part of the Wight ish practice has, evidently, grown out of the circumstance of locality, with respect to a market ; and is of course proper. Yet, notwithstand- ing the market, for dairy produce, and the want of cattle to consume the straw of the Island, I was well assured, that the number of cows, on the south side or Back of the Island, have greatly decreased, with- in memory ; I was told, as ten to one : but if, as three to one, the decrease, on ten square miles of surface, must be great ; owing to the recent aggregation of farms.

It is to be remarked, however, that the lands, as well as the situation, of that quar- ter of the Island, are better adapted to sheep, than to cattle ; and, it is probable, that as the cows decreased, the number of sheep has been augmented.

But the vale lands, on the north side of the Island, are adapted to cows, rearing cattle, and dairy produce ; yet, here, I observed at

AGRICULTURE.

least one large flock of sheep; with but few cattle, or grasslands to maintain them.

SHEEP. There are two breeds and descriptions of sheep, in this Isle : one of them belonging to the Downs ; the other to the lower lands.

The first are breeding flocks, of the Hampshire variety : but, from what I saw of them, they are a degenerate kind ; small- er, and won>e formed, than the true Hamp- shire breed : owing, no doubt, to the prin- ciples of breeding being less understood, or less attended to : as well, perhaps, as to a want of meadows, to force them in the spring.

In 1791, the South Dozen breed had made its entry, into the Isle of Wight. I ob- served one large flock, on the Western Downs, which was a motley mixture of the two breeds ; and a good South Down ram, among a flock of Hampshire ewes: animals as little alike, in their present states, as the horse and the ass : nevertheless, being, in all human probability, offsprings from the same root, their blood may the sooner, and better assimilate*

• See West of England, Section Sheep.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 285

The other description of sheep are Dor- setshire ewes, bought in, for the purpose of providing early fat lambs, for the London market ; agreeably to the practice of the District of Petworth, described aforegoing. These are common to the Island; appearing in numbers, everywhere; except on the higher Downs ; and consti- tute the principal part of its livestock.

The time of lambing, here, as in West Sussex, is Christmas, or a little after. In the middle of October, I saw a large flock, then full of lamb ; folding off turneps, for wheat, on the vale lands, east of Newport.

In the management of these flocks, I met with nothing, either from observation or inquiry, which differs, materially, from the practice above referred to.

Of folding I observed several instances; a few of them being on fallow, or broken ground ; but more on turnep ground ; both of them, doubtless, intended for wheat.

STATE OF HUSBANDRY. Under this general head, I will draw together such

the Southern Division of the Chalk Hills, in this Volume.

286 AGRICULTURE.

notices, relating to this subject, as occurred, in each day's excursion ; and which have not already found a place, in the foregoing particulars.

Southeast quarter of the Island* Much foul bad farming, in this ride ; and several of the bottoms, and lower hangs of the hills, are cold, and rough skinned, for want of underdraining. The higher slopes are many of them formed into flat stages, with steeps between them, of perhaps eight, ten, or more feet in height. How has the sur- face been moulded into this form ?t Ob- served several instances of raftering, or rib- bing, fallowed or broken grounds. The manure, now setting on for wheat, is dung. Saw no appearance of lime being used, in this intention.

Newport to Brading, along Ashey Dozen. The state of husbandry is similar to that of other chalky districts 1

Brading to Newport, up the sandy valley. The turnep crop is shamefully managed, in this Island : not one acre, of ten, appears

* For the different routes, see page 248. t For remarks on these extraordinary works of for- mer times, see the next division of this Volume.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 287

to have been hoed. Today, I saw a wag- gon load of charlock, an acre, where tur- neps, doubtless, were intended : and, yester- day, not a less burden of the corn bugloss ! — (lycopsis arvensis). The extraneous ma- nure is chalk : large excavations appear on the sides of the Chalk Hills; and the sandy soils of the valley appear full of knobs, or checkers of chalk. Formerly, much chalk, (I was told by a professional man) was burnt into lime ; but, now, it is mostly or wholly set on, raw. Surely, a chalk mill might be invented.* Four heavy horses are the ordinary plow team, on this light land passage ! What a crime ! The ricks, every- where, as round as footballs : very globes: turned with great accuracy, and neatness. Through this ride, too, much foul land is seen : the turnep culture is unpardonable ; and the breed of cattle wretched. t

* See District of Petworth, page 176.

t The judgment, it has already been said, is liable to be misled, through an association of objects; as well as by unobliterated impressions. The temperament of the mind itself, too, may bias the judgment. I passed to the Isle of Wight, immediately from the Sea Coast of Sussex, whose management is above par: and this

2S8 AGRICULTURE.

Newport, to the west end of the Island, along the northern hang of the Chalk Dozens. Nothing, in the general management of these hills, struck me, either to commend, or condemn ; it being similar to that of other chalk hills !

From near Yarmouth, to Newport, over the vale lands, of the northwest quarter. Much dung setting on fallows, for wheat ; and mostly in a middle state as to ripeness: but some of it fresh from the stable: in a long strawy state ! One field thickly chalked. Many of the wheat fallows are clean, and in fine tilth : indeed, the season has been singularly favorable to fallows. But the oat stubbles, and ley grounds, — if such they may be called, — appear foul and weak. This, it is true, is a difficult and dishearten-

might lower the estimation of that of the Island. But my passage, from Portsmouth to Ryde, was pleasant, I had a commodious chaise, from thence to Newport, and a comfortable bed, at the Bugle : so that spleen or dis- appointment could have no share, in the above remarks. I do not mention these circumstances, lightly, or with the vain thought of entertaining my readers; but to deal candidly with them ; and to awaken the attention of those who may hereafter have occasion, to pass sen- tence on the rural management of a country.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 289

ing soil, to farm on. Fallowing for wheat, instead of spring corn and ley herbage, ap- pears to be the great error, in its manage- ment.

Back of the Island. Here, the extraneous manure is " marl," — an impure chalk, — which is dug out of the sides of the hills ; where extraordinary excavations appear; as if it had been in use, for centuries past. The state of the soil, as to cleanness and tilth, is above par. Observed, on two or three different farms, clean ley grounds. For wheat, the soil is laid up, in narrow ridges ; even on the light lands of this flat. But it appears to be the common practice of the Isle, without regard to soil ; as it is throughout the West of England. On the whole, this part of the Island is in a to- lerably good state of cultivation : owing, perhaps, to its being chiefly in the hands of large farmers; of men who have capital, and judgment, to manage it.

The vale lands, to the northeast of New- port. Tiie arable lands, in general, are un- pardonably foul. Very few good farmers.

Beside the particulars, here adduced, a deficiency, or total want, of sainfoin, and

vol. 11. U

2go AGRICULTURE.

water meadows, (no instance of which oc- curred to me) in a chalk hill country, re- quires especial mention.

The IMPROVEMENTS, which risemore prominently, out of the foregoing state- ments, are some alterations in the general ec o x o m y , or presen t plan of m a n age men t , of the Island at large, by reducing the quan- tity of arable lands, and increasing the num- ber of livestock. Thus, on the cold vale lands, increase the quantity of permanent grassland,* and the number of cows and rearing cattle: on the sandy loams, increase the proportion of ley herbage ; on the cal- careous soils try, at least, to grow sainfoin + : and on the sides of the calcareous rivulets, form water meadows ; bv these means, en-

* For remarks on this process, see Weald of Sus- sex, page 158. In the Isle of Wight, I saw an in- stance, on a large scale, in the Valley of Gatcomb, of arable lands being converted into perennial herbage, with success; being used as grazing ground : of which there is little, in the Isle. And the vale lands, which are worked at a great expence, and with much uncertainty, compared with the lands of Gatcomb, would doubtless pay better for the change.

+ For the Cotswold practice, see Gloce-stershirf For that of Kent, see District of Maidstone in Vol. I. page 155.

ISLE OF WIGHT. 291

abling the uplands to carry more stock 5 and this, perhaps, without any reduction in the present quantity of corn. For, though the number of acres might be less, the in- crease of manure, and the comparative fresh- ness of the lands, with respect to corn crops, might make up, for the deficiency; and the advantages, arising from the livestock, be so much clear gain.

The present loss of produce, to the com* munity, and of profit, to the occupiers, or the proprietors of the lands of this Isle, by the unsufferable practice of plowing the light loamy soils, with four costly, high- fed horses, call loudly for improvement. If the superior practice of cultivating such lands, with two oxln, cannot readily be established, that of plowing them with two horses, agreeably to the practice of half the main land, should forthwith be adopted.

In its course of husbandry, an obvious improvement is to be made. Instead of fallowing the vale lands, and growing foul turneps, on the uplands, for wheat, let the ground, in every situation, be thoroughly cleaned, for spring corn and ley herbage ; U 2

a92 AGRICULTURE.

and sow wheat, after clover ; or after pulse, cultivated in rows, with wide intervals, in the Kentish manner.

And in breeding, too, much improve- ment is to be effected ; both in cattle and sheep.

Why not propagate the English breed of cattle, pure, and unmixed with foreign blood ? The French cow may produce an agreeable variety in park scenery, and fur- nish rich viands for a fashionable table ; but from my own experience of this breed, in Surrey, they are of a tender nature ; re- quiring indulgent treatment, to keep them in condition : and they appear to be alto- gether unfit, for the cold, weak, vale lands of the Isle of Wight ; whatever they may be, for its richer, warmer grounds.

The proper breed of sheep, for the heights of the Island, is evidently the South- Down : not mixed, however, with the dege- nerate breed in possession ; — provided ewe lambs, or aged offcast ewes, of the true breed, can be procured, fast enough, from Sussex.

THE

CHALK HILLS

OF THE MORE

SOUTHERN COUNTIES.

THESE HILLS stretch out, in different directions, and spread, with irregular out- lines, through that part of the Island, which forms the subject of the present Volumes ; — reaching, from east to west, near two hun- dred m les.

In so great an extent of country, varia- tions in practice are to be expected. These variations have arisen, not altogether out of the circumstances that might attend their first settlement, and the incidents of long continued practice ; but, in some measure, from the varying nature of their soils. For although there is a striking similarity of soil, on every range of Chalk Hills, in the kingdom, where the Chalk rises nearly to

294 ANALYSIS OF THE SUBJECT-

the surface ; yet, in several parts of the hills of Kent and Surrey, the Chalk, especially on the tops of the higher swells, is deeply covered with a strong tenacious soil ; — in some places, three or four feet in depth.

This circumstance, which I have not ob- served, on any other part of the Hills under view (unless partiallv, and in a slighter de- gree, in the north of Hampshire, and the southwestern quarter of Wiltshire), added to that of the Kentish and Surrey Downs, being entirely separated from the more southern and western hills, by the barren Heaths of Surrey and Hampshire, render them a distinct object of examination. And the Downs of Sussex, though they agree in soil, with the Hampshire and Wiltshire hills, and are contiguous to the former, difier much with respect to management. The Dorsetshire Hills appear, from what I have seen of them, to be similar to those ot Wilt- shire. A threefold division, therefore, is all that is requisite : namely,

The Western Division ; comprizing the Downs of Wiltshire and Hampshire :

The Southern Division ; containing the West and South Downs of Sussex : and

The Eastern Division ; including those of Surrey and Kent.

THE

WESTERN DIVISION

OF THE

CHALK HILLS.

Prefatory Observations.

THIS BEING the largest Division, and the one that I have examined with the most attention, I shall speak of it, in detail; and confine myself, in mentioning the other Di- visions, to the few differential practices that have struck me.

It may be right to notice the SOURCES of INFORMATION, which circumstances threw in my way, with respect to this Di- vision. My first view of it occurred, in tra- velling from London to Devonshire, in the early part of July, 1791, — by the way of Basingstoke, and Stockbridge, to Salisbury ; where I staid a few clays, to examine the country, round this finely situated place ; and from thence, by Bland ford, and Dor- chester, to Bridport. The next line I made

296 PREFATORY OBSERVATIONS.

across it was, in the middle of September, in the same year, from Mere to Salisbury, and thence, as before, to Basingstoke. The third was in the middle of October, 1791, from Rumsey to Salisbury, and thence to Bridport. The fourth, in the ware of the same year, from Bridport by Salisbury, to Basingstoke. The fifth, the same road, in J 793. The sixth, in April, 1794, from Pew - . down the bourn, or valley, of Ames- bur v ; thence across the Downs, by Or- cheston and Heytesbury, to Warminster : and thence, by the Deverells and JCnoyle, to Shaftsburv Lastly, from Devizes, by Everley, Ludgershall, arid Andover, to Ba- singstoke. And, beside these lengthened lines, I made a shorter excursion, in June 1791, from Petersfield, by Alton, cxc. to Farnham.

GENERAL VIEW

OF THIS

DISTRICT.

In giving a brief account of this wide tract of country, I shall pursue the same plan, I have followed, on former occa- sions.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 297

SITUATION. Its northern boundary is formed, by the rich lands df Berkshire, and the vale, or broken valley, of Pewsey, which separates it from the Marlborough Hills : its western, bv the broken grounds of Somersetshire, &c. : its southern, by the New Forest ; its eastern by the Heaths of Surrey and Hampshire, and the West Downs of Sussex.

The EXTENT of this Division, from east to west, is near sixty miles ; from north to south, twenty to twentyfive; comprizing twelve to fifteen hundred square miles of surface.

ELEVATION. It is a striking fact, that the Chalk Hills of Yorkshire, of Nor- folk, of Buckinghamshire, and of the several divisions of the Southern Counties, are of a similar height ; all of them rising to upland elevations, some of them to what are empha- tically termed heights ; but none of them are mountainous : their mean elevations, ab >ve the sea, being, to common observation, nearly the same.

SURFACE. It is equally observable, that, in the formation of the areas, or interior surfaces, of all chalky hills, there is a strik- ing likeness: rotund knolls, or more length- ened ridges, divided by smoothly sided val- lies, of various depths. And in almost every range I have examined, the rise on one side js sudden, and abrupt, — showing a broken

198 DISTRICT.

steep or cliff, — fro::-: the top of which the hills sink, in irregular gradation; at length shelving, smoothly, and often gently, into an extended flat ; frequently of rich soil.

These circumstances are rnoredisting able, where the range of hill is narrow — si7igle — than where a congeries of such ranges are crowded together, disorderly; asthev are in the instance more particularly under no- tice ; whose varied surface will best appear, in the following extracts from my Journals.

Basingstoke toSaiisbury. The Chalk Hills begin, with a gentle rise, a few miles before Basingstoke, and continue rising, with an easy ascent, and with intervening dips, for ten or twelve miles, to Popham Beacon ; thence fallirg, with an almost regular de- scent, and for nearly the same length of ground, into the Valley of Stockbridge ; ng, however, some broken high lands, on -he I

The Valley of Stockbridge is narrow; and, on the west side, the Chalk rises ab- ruptly, and reaches to a height, greater, perhaps, than that which has been passed. From those second heights, which divide the counties of Hants and Wilts, the road, for another distance of ten or twelve miles, sinks gradually to Salisbury ; — leaving, as before, some bold high lands, to the left.

The environs of Salisbury. Smooth rotund eminences are seen from every point

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 399

of view ; the town being happily situated, In a wide shallow bason, in tne midst of them ; at the conflux of three brooks ; each having its accompanying dell ; forming one river, and one broad, well wooded valley, below the town. From the loftv site of the castle of Old Sarum is a very extensive circle of views : a still wider sea of chalky waves.

Amesbury to Warminster. Ascend the downs behind Amesbury Park : extensive naked views, smooth and beautiful. Enter the plain, or more level part of the downs, at Stone Henge. The surface gently flow- ing ; tamer even than the high wolds of Yorkshire, and more extensive. Cross a gentle dip at Orcheston, and leave a fine valley, on the left, below Chiltern. Sur- mount another plain: the surface gently waving, as before. Descend, abruptly, into the vale, or broken bason, of Hevtesbury and Warminster ; leaving high rugged hills to the right.

Warminster and to Shaftsbury. From the summit of one of these heights, a striking suite of views are commanded. One of So- mersetshire is extensive ; the others are cir- cumscribed, by the steep and lofty Chalk Hills, which here form a fertile bay of silty soil ; in which this and other detached hil- locks rise, as islands ; and diversify the sur- face in a singular manner.

Leave the broken environs of Warm in-

3oo DISTRICT.

ster ; ascend the downs, by a gentle rise ; and reach the summit. Most extensive pro- spects ! an ocean view : free on every side. Dorsetshire, Somersetshire, and Wiltshire. are overlooked, to an extraordinary extent. The surface of these downs boldlv swelling. Descend to a lower stage ; and still lower. Leave the Chalk Hills, and drop, abruptly, into the Valley of Knoyle : the very Weald of Kent or Sussex.

Devizes to Ludgershall. The Chalk Hills are seen on the right; lofty, and in some parts rugged, but not uniformly broken into steep cliffs. Much cultivation appears on their sides, and towards their feet, in flati artificial stages, with steep " linshets" be- tween them. Reach the foot of the hill, and leave the Vale of Pewsey ; entering the " bourn" or valley of Amesbury; a chalk-hill valley of the largest size. Mount the eastern bank of the valley ; overlooking in the ascent, a sequestered arable dip, or branch valley, on the left, and gain the top of the grassy down : another wavy plain, shelving gently southward, to Everley and Sudbury Hill ; a high rugged eminence of a nature dissimilar to the surrounding heights; standing between the vallies of Amesbury and Winterbourn, which sink, steeply, on either side of it.

Ludgershall to Basingstoke. The country being inclosed and wooded, the sur-i

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 301

face is the less discriminable : it appears to be a succession of tame upland swells, di- vided by dips and shallow vallies.

Petersfield to Farnham. The steep face of the Downs, on this side, makes an angle ; changing from a westward to a northward direction ; appearing to termi- nate, abruptly, to the north of Petersfield, in a rugged promontory. From the brink of this range of cliff, the surface shelves gently, westward, into a spacious dip, above Alton ; sinking, by degrees, into the valley of Farnham.

Remarks. The artificial surface which meets the eye, in different parts of these hills, forcibly arrests the attention. It occurs on the steeper slopes ; which are formed into stages, or platforms, with grassy steeps, provincially " linxhets," between them.

This form of surface must have been pro- duced, at great ex pence, in the first instance, or by great length of time, in constantly turning the furrows, downward of the slope. But as the turnwrest plow has never, per- haps, had a footins,, on this division of the Chalk Hills, it is probable, that the stages under notice were formed, by hand ; at some period, when manual labor, either through an excess of population, or through the means of feudal services, was easily obtained. L\nd the advantages, arising from the ope-

3o2 DISTRICT.

ration, have no doubt repaid the first cost, with ample interest. The stages, or plat- forms, are equally commodious for imple- ments of tillage, as for carriages; beside retaining moisture, better than sloping sur- faces ; while the grassy steeps, between the arable stages, afford no inconsiderable sup- ply of herbage ; on which horses are ted- dered, or tended, while corn is on the ground ; and which give pasturage to sheep, at other seasons.*

This sort of artificial surface is common, in different parts of the Island ; and the an- tiquarv might he less profitably employed, than in tracing its origin.

CLIMATL'RE. The harvests of these hills are late. In the first week of July, 1791, the hav harvest was barely begun: the season, however, was backward. In the middle of September, barley harvest, from Mere to Basingstoke, was at its height : the Downs strowed with harvest waggons: some barley in swath, and some uncut. But the weather had been unsettled.

* In going over the extraordinary site of the castle of Old Sarim, I had an opportunity of observing the great facility with which sheep are enabled to graze very steep surfaces; by a faculty, which nature has fur- nished them with, as mountain animals, of short- ening or lengthening their legs, with respect to their bodies, at pleasure : a natural faculty that enables them to stand tideway to the slope ; and, in that posture, to feed, with apparent case, on almost perpendicular steeps.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 303

WATERS. These hi is are. in a manner, free from surface water. That of rain is imbibed, as fast as it descends. In the deeper vallies, where the mass of chalk is broken, and cleft perhaps to its foundation, the wa- ters, which the hills have absorbed, being checked, by some less permeable stratum, rise in profusion ; forming copious brooks of limpid calcareous water, — whose fertiliz- ing qualities will be shown.

SOIL. No portion of the earth's surface affords the geologist more interesting mat- ter, for his discussion, than the class of lands, now under consideration. The soils of chalk hills, where the chalk has no other super- incumbent load, than the cultured mold, are every where very similar. They are of a loamy nature, pale-colored, and of a depth proportioned to the elevation and surface of the bases, on which they rest. The summits of the hills are. in general, thinly covered, are, in some instances, almost naked of soil ; while the lower stages, and the flatter parts, are furnished with soils of a middle depth ; and while the feet of the hills enjoy a deep, rich, and generally friable, sandy loam: such deep rich soils occurring, not only on the smooth or shelving side of the range of hill, but at the foot of the broken cliff; and, what is most observable, where the cliff is of great height, a line of rich, variously colored,

DISTRICT.

clayey soil intervenes, between the chalk and the sandy loam.*

Basingstoke to Salisbury. The soil of these hills varies. Basingstoke to Pop- ham Lane, and the lower stages in general, enjoy a free pood loam, which stands, with considerable firmness, the present dry sea- son. The higher swells are of a thinner, fertile soil ; some of them, between Stockbridge and Salisbury, appearing to be almost barren.

Environs of Salisbury. The soil, on the tops of the hills, is mostly thin ; but, on the gentler slopes, and towards the vallies, it is chiefly a productive loam ; fine crops o{ wheat, barley, and peas.

The Valley of Amlsbury. Where the of the valley dilates, a dark, moory mold has formed : no a converted to rich water meadows (of which hereafter); the skirts ot the hills having a deep, rich, absor- bent soil. Below Nc therhaven, the road leaves the bottom of the valley, and leads along the first stage of hill: well soiled, charming arable land.

Amesbury to Warminster. The lower skirts of the plain are covered with a deep, highly colored soil : good corn land ; and

* See the District of Petworth, p. 167. Also the Southern Chalk Hills.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 3c5

only wants shelter to render it highly pro- per, for mixed cultivation.

Warminster, and towards Shafts- bury. Strong pale-colored clay, at the feet of the hillocks near Warminster : charming wheat, beans, and clover, on this soil : though (the 26th April) hard baked with drought! The area of the bason or bay of Warminster, is a silt, or very fine sand, similar to that of the Vale of Pewsey ; resembling much the sea silt, or mud, of which the road across the marshlands of Norfolk is formed.

Much of the Downs, in this quarter, is furzey, rough, and forestlike, with wooded hills to the left : part of the higher downs, arable: the soil, apparently, cool and re- tentive. The lower stages of the Down (on the southside) pale loam, on chalky rubble : a sainfoin soil.

Everley Downs. The soil, of the gen- tler slopes and hollows, is deep dark-color- ed loam; — upon the steeper sides of the swells, thin, loose, and flinty. The top of Sudbury Hill is a bed of round smooth, '.caterworn flints.

Ludgershall to Andover. An inclosed country. The soil nine or ten inches deep, on chalk, producing good thorn hedges ; and hedgerow oaks.

Andover to Basingstoke. Here, an un- usual species of chalk-hill soil covers some extent of surface : a sort of red rubble, or

vol. 11. X

DISTRICT.

gravelly earth : sometimes appearing at the surface ; at others, forming a subsoil to a lighter colored loam.

- "BSOIL. The ordinary bed of the cuU

J

is a soft broken chalk, or rubble, of various dep lies pure, some-

*& mixed with colored earths. In rr. plac. tolerable quality

lies on a ma! close chalk, c: very

little loose matter intervenu

The subsoil of the mead :Vequer.

a bed of flints, and not un< -.jam

of white earth, from one to three feet deep ; having the appearance of pipe clay ; or a deposit of dirty chalk ; washed, prob.. from the hills, before their surfaces were covered by g tation.

The SUBSTRUCTURE of the* hills is, doubtless, in chief part, chalk. Little else appears, in the faces of the broken steeps; until the .- I of rich clay, that

has been mentioned, is reached. There are wells, in different parts of the Chalk Hills south of the Thames, of three hundred feet in dept ch pass entirely (it is said)

through masses of chalk.

Hence the almos: C . of these hills is chalk : interspersed, ever, in some places, with Mints ; or flint v gravel.

The softer chalks are used, as manure, in their natural state ; the harder are burnt into lime.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 30-

Writing Chalk. Out of the foot of Sudbury Hill, chalk of a singularly fine quality, of an even soft texture, and purely white color, is raised. Considerable quan- tities of it, I understand, are taken west- ward, in back carriage, by those who bring coals into the neighbourhood of this hill, to supply the shops of the West of England with writing chalk.

By the marine acid, one hundred grains yielded (by two separate trials) ninetyseven and a half grains of calcareous matter ; leaving two grains and a half of tenacious residuum, — a brown, slime-like matter.

TOWNSHIPS. In laying out the lands most immediately under notice, the prin- ciple of the plan may be said to have been given. The almost only eligible sites, for towns and villages, were in the deeper val- lies : not so much on account of the shelter they afford, as the water they furnish. And the lines of demarcation were drawn across the vallies ; to give each township its pro- portionate share of high and low, of fertile, and infertile lands : or, where a twofold range of townships occurs, as in the Valley of Amesbury,the brook or midway of the valley is the boundary line between them.

The judgment that has been used, in fix- ing the sites of villages, is apparent in the Valley of Amesbury. Where the base of the valley dilates, or widens, there we find

X 2

3o8 DISTRICT.

a village : as Chissenbury, Enford, Fittle- ton, Xetherhaven ; and, in the widest of these dilations is situated the market town Amesbory : while Salisbury, the county town, occupies a conflux of similar dila- tions : the only instance of the kind, the county affords.

The ROADS are everywhere good: even though they only lead to villages. The public roads are in general excellent. Flints set En chalk are the first of road materials.

STATE OF [N CLOSURE. This I shall be the best enabled to convey, by ex- tracts from mv Journals.

Basingstoke to Salisbury. The state of inclosure varies. To the eastward, the country is mostly inclosed : much of it in large, square, regular, inclosures. More ward, it is entirely open; as are the tops of the higher hills, throughout. Ex- tensive vie th no other break, than It is given by corn, or flocks ; fallows, or the sheepfold.

Environs oy Salisbury. To the south- ward of the town, there are some well sized, square fields, with good live hedges (at least on three sides) apparently of forty or fifty ra growth ; vet, extraordinary as it is, many of these fields lie open to the roads ! the fences on the sides next to the lanes ; in a state of neglect. And, to the north of the Avon, the country, for many

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 309

miles every way, lies open ; unless about villages and hamlets, and along the narrow bottoms of the watered vallies. To the eastward of Salisbury, an attempt has been made at inclosure ; the ruins of the hedges being still evident: broken banks, with here and there a hawthorn. And similar in- stances are observable, in other parts of these Downs.

Remark. Are we to infer, from hence, that chalk-down lands are not proper to be kept in a state of inclosure ? Or that, where sheep are tended in flocks, and few cattle are kept, fences are not requisite ? Or is the foliage of shrubs a natural and favorite food of sheep, and hence, in a country entirely naked of shrubs, and chiefly stocked with sheep, it is difficult to preserve a live hedge from destruction?*

Ludgershall to Basingstoke. The country is wholly inclosed ; excepting a few plots, on the right, towards the higher open downs ; mostly in large square fields; doubt- less from a state of open down ; the hedges, in general, of a middle age: some instances of recent inclosure.

With respect to the present state of appropriation of this tract of country, the mere traveller is liable to be deceived. From the more public roads, the whole appears

* See Vol. I. page 326 : Note.

DISTRICT.

to b? in a state of divided property. But, on closer examination, much of it is found in a s'ate of commonage. In the imme- diate environs of Salisbury, there are e dent remains of a common field ; lying in narrow dips, intermixed, in the South-of- Btigta far from it, a

nmon cow pasture, ar.d a common mea- dow. About ed the same appearances. I alley of Amesburv,

xh of the land remains, I understand, under similar circumstances ; though th do not so c-\ . appear, in the arable

lands: which. I . of estates or

of farms, or by exchanges among landlords, or their tenants, lie or :i well sized

pieces. But the after eatagc ner of

the stubbles or the meadov \ ed in

common. And: - downs of the com-

tate of com- mon pasture, the year round ; being stinted bv the arable lands. " PRESENT PRODUCTIONS. Time

d experience appear to have assigned, with considerable ace. the products

rent soils and their si- tuations. Where the soil is trident depth, and of a nature, and in a on, suitable to arable crops, we find these crops prevail : while the higher thinner soils are a state of perennial sheep walk: and,

.ere the chalk is covered with a cool

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 3n

tenacious soil, we see olots of woodland ; as between Ludgershall and Basingstoke ; Warminster and Shaftsburv '• and, on some of the higher, cool-soiled hills of Hamp- shire, coppices are prevalent.

ORNAMENTAL APPEARANCE. A great similarity of view is observable, in all the chalky districts of the Island. The visual effect, of open naked downs, bears some affinity, to that produced, by broad sea views: the first sight is the most inte- resting. Nevertheless, the grandeur, that not u infrequently rises, from extensiveness, and the beauty which, almost everywhere, appears in the nearer views, prevent a sa- tiety : beside, there are few minds, that are not exhilarated, if not enlarged, by exten- sive prospects.

It must, however, be some particular and chosen point, from whence nothing but an extensive billowy surface appears : broken wooded offscapes are generally seen ; giving character, and distinction, to the views. And there are few, in which nearer objects do not enter ; as featured eminences, woods, villages, mills, sheep in scattered flocks ; and, in the summer months, plots of corn, waving perhaps with the wind, and giving, a sort of animation, as well as variety, to the scenery.

In describing the surface of this tract of country, its ornamental appearance has

3i2 AGRICULTURE.

i, in some part, conveyed. The more

striking places of view, that I find noticed in my Journals, are the higher eminence.^ of the Hampshire hills; from whence the heights of Farnham, and the interior hills o: Hampshire, are seen, on the one hand ; and, on the other, the high lands of Buck- inghamshire, and the Marlborough hills ; with extensive front views of the Wiltshire Downs ; while the nearer grounds are, in some points, extremely beautiful : soft bil- low, broken bv irregular masses of woodland, and smaller coppices; hang- ing, perhaps, on the brows and sides of the hills ; with which, in magnitude, they often happily correspond. . ._ . ., Sudbury hill (near Amesbury) comn.ar.ds a circle of in- teresting views. That to the eastward is rich and extensive ; terminating, perhaps, with the Bucking re heights. And, from the upper part oi Everlev Downs, a still more extensive circle is commanded. To the ard. a lengthened view of the vale lands of W stanced by the - of Somersetshire, and sKreened, on the north, b; ugh heights, at hand. with Salisl ..ins, an .uire range . of the \

distanced by the woodlands of Hampshire;

th a clear horizon, are probably

seer. Isle of Wight. But, at

the tin: .araordinary point

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 313

of view, a haziness obscured the farthest distances.

It is almost needless to add that it would be in vain to look for the picturesque, in the interior of these uplands : nor do I even find one passage noted, as being highly pictur- able. Nevertheless, on their margins, espe- cially on their western border, where they blend with the broken grounds of Somer- setshire and Dorset, and form the natural boundary of the West of England, the country becomes interesting in the detail, and abounds with picturable scenery.

MANAGEMENT

OF

ESTATES

MY NOTES, on this subject, are neces- sarily few : they relate to

Farm buildings, Field fences. FARM BUILDINGS. In this division of the Chalk Hills, we see the practices of the West of England, and of the lower lands

3i4 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES.

of the Southern Counties, mixing with each other. On the larger farms, the dwelling house is usually of bricks and plain tiles, — the barns, and other offices, of weather- boarding and thatch ; agreeably to the Berk- shire and Surrey practice. While smaller farmeries, and some I have observed of con- siderable size, are entirely of mud and straw, — the West of England cob ; — of which yard fences are, almost invariably, and universally formed ; their tops being secured with thatch, as the ridge of a roof. Cot- tages, also, are commonly of the same material, throughout the country. In the upper part of the Valley of Amesburv, I observed several new buildings, formed with blocks of hard chalk : a material which ap- pears (there at least) to be coming into use.

In the plan and construction of farm buildings, the only particular that struck me, as being entitled to especial notice, is the practice of setting barns upon pillars, in the manner in which granaries are usually set. I have observed, and not unfrequentlv, barns of a full size raised, entirely from the ground, in this way : a practice which has probably originated, in the abundance of rats, with which the bourns, or watered vallies, are infested. Watered meadows are nurseries of them. They not only afford sweet roots and herbage, for their food :

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 315

but the sides of the trenches are convenient places, for their lodgement.

Remarks. In point of expence, the dif- ference between pillars and caps, and a brick foundation wall, may not be great ; and the perfect dryness obtained, may repay the exnaordinary expence of sills and flooring. Indeed, in the thrashing floor, there is doubt- less, in a course of years, a considerable saving ; beside the refuge which a barn of this kind must afford, to swine at all times; and to poultry, in wet weather.

FIELD FENCES. Some of the old hedges, in the north of Hampshire stand on mounds ; and have a mixture of the euonymus and other shrubs; and, like those on the hills of Surrey and Kent, are fre- quently injured, by the travellers joy (cle- matis vitalba) : a powerful enemy to hedges.

The modern live hedge is of hawthorn; and those of a middle age are mostly clean, and full of growth.

The only guards of young hedges are two lines of very low rodded hedge ; which, against sheep that arc folded, by night, and carefully tended, by day, may be sufficient ; but must expose the young plants, to nu- merous accidents.

On the lower stages of the hills, young hedges appear to be raised, without much difficulty, but on the higher more exposed sites, the hawthorn, perhaps, does not rise,

3i6 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATE.

quick enough, to get out of the way ot enemies ; nor furnish itself, sufficiently, to give the required shelter, in such situa- tions.

Remark. If it be right, to inclose the more exposed heights, the beech, I am of opinion, would be found a most eligible hedgewood. In the Highlands of Scotland, I have seen beechen hedges equal, as fences, to brick walls ; and, being kept pruned on their sides, are perhaps superior to them in point of shelter.

The dead fence, principally, or solely, in use, is a hedge made with naked hazel rods, interwoven among stakes, in the wattle manner. Many thousand rods of this fence are seen, in travelling across the country : notwithstanding the materials, to some parts, are to be fetched many miles ; the ex pence of making considerable ; and the duration short. Two such hedges, with a line of young beeches, set between them, would be a fence, in perpetuity.

The HEDGEROW" TIMBER of this tract of country is, of course, inconsider- able. The recently planted, and middle- aged hedges are free from it. In the north of Hampshire, some oaks are seen, in the hedgerows; and, in the vallies, elms are common : also willow pollards ; not only in the hedgerows, but by the sides of the main conduits, in the areas of the meadows.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 313

In a country, destitute of coppices, wil- low pollards must be found highly useful; as furnishing a supply of stakes, and of rods, and rails, for various purposes of husbandry.

WOODLA N D S

AND

PLANTING.

THE NORTH of Hampshire is well wooded. Mostly in a state of coppice, for Fuel, hurdles, and dead hedges. Some oak timber is observable, on the lower red-soiled lands, and, even on the higher grounds, stooping stunted oaks are seen ; but in situa- tions altogether improper for them. If it be right to attempt to grow timber, in these situations, the beech, would, undoubtedly, be found preferable to the oak.

With respect to planting, the Wolds of Wiltshire and Hampshire remain in the same state, in which the Wolds of York- shire were, twenty or thirty years ago. From Everley Downs, I observed some rag- ged clumps of stunted firs ; the almost only attempts at planting, I did observe: unless about places, with a view to ornament: and except an instance or two, between

3i8 WOODLANDS.

Salisbury and Basingstoke, of recently form- ed belts, or skreen plantations, in which the beech appeared conspicuous.

Remark. This appears, to me, the most eligible kind of plantation, for these bleak naked hills; especially those in the more central parts of Wiltshire, where coppice wood, and coals, are equally far to be fetch- ed : where wood may be said to be the na- tural fuel of the country ; yet, at present, without a coppice wood, to supply its wants. In Salisbury, there is a spacious place called the " wood market" : and, formerly, every township must necessarily have had its woodland.

A GR I CULTURE.

FARMS. The plan of farms, as of townships, is in some measure given, in the nature of the country. Under the pre- sent system of management, every farm requires a portion of arable land, of sheep walk, and of meadow. The great incon- veniency, of this distribution of the lands, is the situation of the farmery ; which is necessarily placed, on one side of the arable lands ; and that side the lowest.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 319

To obviate, in some degree, this incon- veniencv, barns have been scattered, on the higher Downs, where these are in a state of aration ; to prevent the length of carriage, of corn and manure, which is otherwise requisite. I have observed sheep ponds, near these barns, which, with their sheltered yards, are capable of being rendered ser- viceable to sheep, in severe weather.

Remark. On every extensive estate, it is highly probable, sites, eligible for hill farms, might be found. See Isle of Tha- net, in page 4,1.

The sizes of farms are extremely various. Many large ones are seen, in every quarter of the tract of country under examination. Nevertheless, in every " bourn," small far- meries are observable. Where perennial sheep walk, and the fold, make essential parts of the plan of management, farms of sufficient size, to maintain flocks large enough to employ distinct shepherds, are doubtless most eligible. But, in speaking of sheep, it will be shown, that such is the power of invention, when urged by natural necessity, that even the lowest class of far- mers are enabled to keep sheep, and fold their arable lands, with a degree of pro- priety.

Upon the whole, this division of the Chalk Hills may be deemed a most desireable coun- try, to farm in. Sound sheep walks; arable

AGRICULTURE.

lands, that may be worked, in almost any season ; meadowy vallies ; and calcareous va er !

BEASTS OF LABOR. Horses are universally the animals of draft. Mostly valuable young horses, bred In the Midland Counties, and enured to moderate work, here, to prepare them for the London mar- ket. See Midland Counties, Section Horses.

It is no wonder, therefore, that pi are seen moving with sluggard pace ; or that, in consequence, a sluggish gait, and slowness in every movement, should cha- racterize those who, from their early youth, have been habituated to-the snail's pace of fat fen horses. See Norfolk; Minute 100. Also District of Maidstone, in Vol. I. page 56.

The ordinary plow team is four horses, double. I have seen three (drawn two and one) scratching the surface of a loose fallow, three inches deep, and moving, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour. In one instance, however, on the lower part of Everlev Downs, I saw five two-horse plow- teams, at work : some of them with, some without, drivers.

IMPLEMENTS. The west country waggon is common, on these hills. It dif- fers from that of the Cotswolds (seeGLO- cestershire) in having no insection, in the

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. jfi

body, to receive the fore wheels, in turning. In an open country, there is less occasion, for such mode of construction, than in nar- row inclosures ; and the body is not only more roomy, and commodious, but is strong- er, bv continuing the side pieces, through- out, from end to end. And for the road, where heavy loads and long journies are re- quired, whole bodies have their advantage. But, for harvest waggons, in an inclosed country, insertions are highly useful.

The Wiltshire waggons run remarkably wide : full five feet and a half from middle to middle of the ruts ; I have measured one near six feet, from out to out : far exceed- ing, in this respect, the waggons of most other parts of the kingdom : they are pe- culiarly well adapted to a side-hill country ; and are, on the whole, well suited to the country, in which they are employed.

One plow, likewise, is common to this division of the Chalk Hills, and is, perhaps, peculiar to them, and the Isle of Wight. About Alton, on the eastern margin of Hampshire, I perceived the singlewheeled plow of Sussex, changing to the two wheels and high bolster, of Hampshire: and. in leaving the Vale of Pewsey, and entering the Valley of Amesbury, a similar change was observable.

It would be a difficult task, to describe this plow ; and, when gone through, would

VOL. II. Y

AGRICULTURE.

be labor lost. It has the general appe : ance, at some distance, of the Norfolk, or the Kentish plow ; and is, in size, betv.L the two ; but approaches the unwieldin. of the latter.

The part that marks the Wiltshire, or rather the Hampshire plow, ru :rimi-

nately , is the form of the share ; which con-

:s of a long narrow point, or spike, i sembling the point of a small iron crow, to which a long narrow fin is welded, a few inches from the point ; standing out almost square, but receding somewhat backwa resembling, much, in figure and positi the pectoral fin, of so:r,e species of fish ; and hence, probably, the terra^/m, which common to some ; being very dif-

ferent, in shape and appearance, t< >ig

of the ordinary plow-share.

other implement, common to hills, is the " drag plow." I observed it, first, in the Alton quarter, and afterwards found it common, id Wiltshire. It resembles the subplow, or tormentor, of West De- vonshire :see Wfst of England, Dist; South Hams) except in the construction of the operative par: . ;.ch, in those that I tmined,are mere coulters,or strong

tines, b.nt in the lower part, with an obt. angle : the points shooting forward ; the upper part being splayed our. wide and hollo. .d.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 323

This implement is used, and has, I under- stand, long been used, by common farmers, in forming channels, or' seed seams, in the surface of the soil, over which seed wheat is intended to be sown. I have observed six horses dragging one of those implements ; with two men standing upon it, to increase its effect.

The outline of the frame of the wood- work forms a triangle; which is drawn by the sharpest angle ; and has cross bars, to- wards the opposite side, in which the coul- ters are fixed ; and with a low wheel, at each corner, to regulate their depih.

The origin, and progress, of this inven- tion would be interesting, in a history of the agriculture of the Island.

MARKETS. This part of the Island abounds with good markets. Salisbury, Warminster, Devizes, Andover, and Ba- singstoke take off the corn, grown on the lands more particularly under notice. And the fair of Weyhill, situated between Ludgershall and Andover, is the mart for sheep. Although the situation of these hills is, in a degree, remote, they may be said to be well placed, with respect to markets; having Bath and Bristol, on one hand, with the metropolis, on the other; and Ports- mouth within reach.

PLAN OF MANAGEMENT. The rise of the present practice does not evidently Y 2

RICULTUXJt

appear. It is probably of ancient date it d" even yet, I understand, dev

far, from the old common field system of management.

be leading objects of the chalk-hill farmers appear, in a great measure, in what has been said, respecting the present pro- ductions, of these hills. Corn and sheep are their chief market products. Some cows are kept, and small quantities of cheese are sent to market. But this is a secondary object.

The arable crops are ziiwit, bar, : peas, tares, r\e, rape, turneps, tempo grasses. nfoin; with a wide extent of

:nial sheep dozen: and with meadow

age : especially where water can be mmanded.

The outline of management of the arable lands appears to be that of ren- dering them equally productive of grain and herbage ; of corn and sheep ; appropria them, pretty equally, to these purposes s namely, to wheat, barley, oats, pea-.

; ; and to cultivated herbage, rye, tares. rape, and turneps, as food for sheep ; espe-

. lambs, which form the main object of

the flock : the first care of the chalk-hill

shepherds being that of growing them to

itest possible ^ize, as store lambs.

rbc | lai u of practice, on the

appropriated lands, where any regular

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 325

cession of crops is observed, — appears to be — wheat ; — barley, or other spring corn ; — succeeded bv cultivated herbage, two years ; the first year's crop being usually mown, the second eaten with sheep : or, in some instances, I understood, the crops of both years are applied to sheep ; the first, more particularly, to suckling ewes; in order to push on the lambs, and raise them to the greatest growth, to which the scanty sum- mer feedage of these hills are capable of rais- ing them, for the autumnal market.

This four years' course was probably in use, before the cultivation of grasses and legumes took place ; and hence, perhaps, the imperfect tillage, which is still given, for the wheat and barlev crops ; and which was well calculated to preserve the natural grasses in the ground ; to form a tempo- rary sheep pasture, while the land was re- covering its strength, to throw out two more crops of corn. The last year's ley is usually dunged, or folded upon, or both, for wheat in rotation : the other crops, mentioned above, being thrown in, as occa- sion requires.*

SOIL PROCESS. The tillage, which these lands receive, is inconsiderable. For

* I speak here, of the area, or more central parts of this division of the Chalk Hills ; or, in other words, oi the District itself: not of its western margin.

326 AGRICULTURE.

wheat, the ley ground is usually broken, by a half plowing, ricebalking, or rafter- ing ; and the seed sown over onv clean plowing! given across the ricv-baiks ; or, at most, the plits of the clean plowing be- ing reduced, with the barrow, the surface is

sed into inequalities, v\ith the drag plow, to receive the seed. And the usual barley fallow, I understand, is two plowings of the wheat stubble. The extraordinary foulness of the lev grounds, and stubbles, is a neces- sary consequence.

The practice of sodpurning is probably Oi ancient date, on these hills; i ery

quarter of which it is, now, more or less

servable. But it appears, from what fell

ider my observation, to be confined, chierly, to the higher lands.

In the ancient husbandry of tiiese hills, it is probable, these distant lands were forced, by this practice, to bear, occasionally, as many corn crops, as they were able ; and. were then suffered to rest, until time had renewed strength, and enabled them

to bear another sue ) of corn crops;

agreeably to the practice of Scotland : the produce of these ouifield lands being ex- pended on the infolds, or lower grounds. v, as has been said, barns are placed, on remote lands, and a crop of rape herbage, for sheep food, usually succeeds

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 327

the burning. Two very valuable improve- ments.

MANURES. The species, in ordinary use, are farmyard dung, the sheepfold, and the ashes of burnt sward. In the Andover quarter, I observed an instance of the red gravelly loam, that has been noticed, being thickly covered with chalk. But I saw no appearance of lime, or lime kilns, on any part of the area of these hills.

Nevertheless, on the western margin, at the foot of one of the hillocks, near War- minster, I met with some lime kilns ; and these of an extraordinary construction. The body, or cavity of the kiln, resembles a well ; measuring four feet and a half in dia- meter, at the top, and not less than thirty feet deep ; the shaft widening, somewhat, downward ; but did not appear to be more than five or six feet, in diameter, in the widest part. The material hard chalk : the fuel coals.

Remark. How various are the forms of the lime furnace. Are they severally adapt- ed, to the given material, and fuel ; or is there, generally, much improvement to be made in its construction ?

The MANAGEMENT OF DUNG, throughout

this division of the Chalk Hills, is very singular. When it is used, on ley ground, for wheat, (to which purpose it appears to be chiefly applied,) it is carried out of the

328 AGRICULTURE.

yard, in a long si state, and spread

he land, without any pr I di-

gestion. I have observed hundreds, proba- bly thousands, of acres apparer \ : some of itstroWed on s^sard, some on the broken surface : in either case, tall thistles being usually seen, rearing their heads, aboye the straw. In the course of the summer, and autumn f not folded upon), the sheep flatten it down* at least, or tread it into the soil.

Remark. Nothing can apr .. . > a stranger, more slovenly, than this pracl This, however, is no proo: wrong. How far it may be right, to work undigested straw, into tigbt chalky land, can only be decided, by comparative ex- periments, repeatedly tried. For altlu . there is a cleanness, and apparent lightness 111 chalky soils, there is at the same time a degree of cooh:-

WHEAT. The succession, — tillage, — and melioration, in use for the wheat crop, appear under the general heads, afore- going.

The time of sowing is early : but not equally so, here, as on the L Id Hills

(see Glocestershire). The c^d and of September, 1794, much wheat was sown, and some up. Much also then remained unsown : some of the land lying in a state of ricebalk ; others an be operation ol

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 329

drag-plowing. The 13th October, 1791, some was green ; others then sowing.

Here, too, as on the Cotswold Hills, it is not unusual, to run the fold over the wheat ground, between the sowing and the com- ing up ; or to drive the flock over it re- peatedly, at that juncture ; in order to give firmness to the soil, and greater stability to the crop, on land which is, naturally, too loose in its texture, for the profitable pro- duction of wheat.

It were impossible to pass over this coun- try, in the winter and spring months, with- out admiring the number, size, and sym- metry of its wheat ricks ; which here, as in the Isle of Wight, are constructed in a masterly manner.

SAINFOIN. Seeing the nature of the soils of these hills, and remarking, in dif- ferent parts, the texture and quality of the subsoil, — a loose calcareous rubble, — in some places of considerable depth, — it be- comes a matter of astonishment and regret, to find so inconsiderable a portion of this valuable crop, in cultivation. In every line, in which I have crossed them, this deficiency is observable.

Remark. Has the whole country been repeatedly cropped with sainfoin ? and is its favorite pabulum exhausted ? (see Gloces- tershire, District Cotswolds, Section, Sainfoin). Or does some impropriety in

330 AGRICULTURE.

the management of this delicate plant (see as above) render it unprofitable? It is scarcely possible, that the value of a full crop of sainfoin should not be well under- stood, on the Chalk Hills of Wiltshire and Hampshire. See, also, the next Division.

SHEEP DOWNS. A very large por- tion . of these hills, is in a state of peren- nial sheep walk; — close-bitten turf; — in which state some of it has doubtless re- mained, for centuries: on much of it, there are no evident vestiges of the plow ; though on other parts of it, there are. Between Chiltern and Hey tesbury, part of the Downs, which now are covered with fine turf, ap- pear, from the marks that still remain un- obliterated on the surface, to have been, once, in a state of common field. But the higher Downs, probably, have been re- claimed, from a state of woodland, or heath, merely by being hard stocked with sheep, and have not passed through any interme- diate state.

Some of the lower Downs are now co- vered, with beautifully fine thickset turf: while others (probably the common cow downs) are set with myriads of small ant hills ; occupying a considerable portion of the surface ; and while the upper swells arc- variegated, with plots of heath ; and, in some few parts, with furze, and otlur shrubs: perfectly resembling the high wolds of York-

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 331

shire : so much do the different ranges of Chalk Hills, in England, resemble each other.

WATER MEADOWS. To gain a ge- neral idea of the watered grounds, of this quarter of the Island, was the principal motive for my stopping, to examine the en- virons of Salisbury, in the summer of 1791 ; and for my passing through the Valley of Amesbury, as well as of viewing the cele- brated meads of Orcheston, in the spring of

17.94-

I cannot convey the information, which

I received on this subject, more intelligibly, than by transcribing the notes of my Jour- nals. It is not my intention to treat the subject, analytically, in this place. Were I even prepared for the task, Mr. Davis's Report, of the practice of Wiltshire, to the Board of Agriculture, would, in some measure, preclude the necessity of per- forming it.

Previously to the detail, it may be pro- per to observe, that the most accurate prac- tice is found, where the country lies open ; and where the prevailing soil, of the up- per grounds, is of a dry, absorbent quality; and unfriendly to natural herbage ; and, of course, where permanent grass grounds, or meadow lands, are confined to the narrow bases of the vallies. In the north of Hamp- shire, where a cooler more retentive soil is

332 AGRICULTURE.

not unfrequent, the meadowy bottoms of vallies are mostly suffered to remain, in their natural flat state. For, here, the ex- traordinary expence of forming them pro- perly, so as to give water its full effect, was not necessary; and, therefore, they lie, in an unprofitable state : frequently occu- pied by flags, and other coarse aquatics : the produce being not of one fourth of the value, of that of the best formed meadows, in the environs of Salisbury, and in the Valley of Amesbury.

Between Basingstoke and Salisbury.

1791. July 4,. The vallies that wind among these hills are deep, and their bases narrow ; but mostly flat, and meadowy : some of them in a state of neglected swamp; occupied by sedges, and other aquatics. But, more generally, they are firm ; and are wa- tered, with limpid brooks !

1793. March 99. Throughout Dorset- shire, and more particularly through WHt- shire and Hampshire, the vallies between the Chalk Hills are watered, with the sheer brooks, that severally belong to them. The effect, now, fully appears, and is far beyond any thing I had conceived : superior, even to the best effect of the slate waters of Devonshire. The appearance, at this time,

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 333

not of a few particular plots, but of entire rallies, is that of rank wheat, in the spring. The grass, now, beginning to be folded off, with sheep ; as rye, in Surrey or Sussex !

The soil is mostly thrown into ridge and furrow ; with deep floating trenches, on the tops of all the ridges ; whether long or short. Query, does the water, retained in these deep trenches, convey nutriment to the soil, and substrata? or give them, more readily, a plenitude of moisture? or whence their apparently unnecessary dimensions?

Environs of Salisbury.

1791. July 5. Walk up the bourn, to Stratford, The meadows are less than a quarter of a mile, in width : lying every way flat ; and, towards the town, very low: in some parts, a mere swamp: the water level with the flat surface of the ground. The herbage mostly coarse aquatics : even the bog bean fmenyanthes trijotiata) is abun- dant. On the sides of the drains, the flote fescue luxuriates. But the produce, on the whole, is of little value.

To these fenny grounds, succeeds a com- mon stinted cow pasture: very much ne- glected : the surface occupied by rushes.

But, above this, are some charming watered grounds: all lying in ridge and

334 AGRICULTURE.

furrow : evidently artificial. Large deep floating trenches, on the ridges; narrow drains, in the furrows. One of them is a common meadow — " Lammas land."

Many of these meadows are still unmown : the water is now on one of them ; stealing its way. unseen, among the grass.

Willow pollards are numerous, in all these meadov.

Walk dman the valley oj tvon, below

the town, to fuycbi r ■. A rich flat of land : nearly, I apprehend, a mile in width : dently water-formed : level from side to side : and \s ith little descent, do\s n the val- ine Avon serpentining through it : \\ ith lateral branches, natural or artificial, spread- ing the water, so as to irrigate, — provincial- Iv " drown," — the entire flat. Almost every fence ditch is a conductor : and others of considerable size, as six to eight feet wide, cross the areas of the inclosures. From these, bv means o( small lifting floodgates, the acting trenches are filled.

The whole valley may be said to be thrown into convex beds ; about ten yards in width. Some pasture grounds are less regularly acclivatcd ; but every thing, with- in the level, appears to be more or less watered.

The natural herbage, on the margin of the valley, above the level of the water, is short, and of a harsh nature : that of the

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 335

watered ground, soft, long, and apparently of a rich quality.

i The herbag-e of the watered beds is va- rious, in species ; as raygrass, the meadow poe, the marsh and other bent grasses, and the meadow fescues ; the loliacea and the pratensis, here putting on very different appearances. On the sides of the trenches, and ditches, the flote fescue, reed canary grass ( phalaris arwidinacea ) and the water poe (poa aquatica) are common : also the meadow rue (thai ictr um fiavum) and the water dock. One meadow I observed was almost shaded over, with the common dock ; which appears to be a prevailing weed of the well formed grounds ; and almost the only one.

The soil is mostly a deep loam ; the sub- soil, in the lower part of the walk, a flinty gravel.

Not one third of these meadows are yet mown : the water now on some of the un- mown grounds.

At what an excessive cost must these lands have been brought into their present state. Raising dams, and setting floodgates (provincially " hatches") across the river ; embanking the river, above these obstruc- tions ; cutting lateral branches, and com- mon conduits ; and forming the surface of the grounds. When, and in what manner,

336 AGRICULTURE.

was so great and spirited a public work executed r

The meadows of the Avon, above the to-.. The valley still continues wide. The whole watered ; and, mostly, in high, wide, convex beds; now loaded with luxuriant herbage. Scarcely any yet cut ! The entire flat forms one great machine of water-work: pools, floodgates, and water-courses of various di- mensions.

Valley of Amesbury.

1794. April 26. The upper part of the valley lies open to the downs ; except a narrow slip of " dry grounds" — old grass inclosures: no watered meadows, the banks of the river, here, lying high above its chan- nel. But might not the slopes be watered. in the Devonshire manner :

The base of the valley widens, at Chisen- burv ; where watered grounds begin. At Enford, a dilation of the valley is filled with u water meads." Large flocks of ewes and lambs are now in them. The grass mostly folded off: some yet untouched.

Willow pollards are common in all these meads.

Near Netherhaven, observed some very wide, high, watermeadow beds: formed, doubtless, at a great expence.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 337

Pass Durrington : numbers of sheep are how seen, in the meadows of this valley.

E?iviro?is of Amesbury. An extensive flat of tine meadows near the town.

Raygrass, now, the predominant herbage: the prevailing weed, the dock. Not a ma- rigold, nor a cardamine, to be detected : a proof of the soundness of these grounds.

The soil, a lightish-brown "loam, — the subsoil, white earth ; from one to two and a half feet deep.

The beds are very irregular : from five to thirty yards wide ; and not often parallel. The smallest of the floating trenches mea- sure nine inches deep, and twelve inches wide, at the bottom.

The river is, now, pent up, almost level with the surface of the meadows. A main conduit runs on the outside of the flat of water-formed land ; conveying water not only to the meadows of Amesbury, but to those of the valley, below. On the inner side of this main conduit, a smaller chan- nel is cut, to feed the working trenches, of the particular meadow through which it passes. Other conductors pass down the mid- dle, or wind through the area of the flat, to supply the interior parts. The whole a sys- tem of circulation,— very much resem- bling that oftheanimal system: see Midland Counties, article Watering Meadows.

vol. II. Z

338 AGRICULTURE.

Remarks. The meadows of Amesbury, as well as those of the Avon, are proper subjects of study. It should be recollected, however, that the waters of chalk hills are tractable, — are not so liable to high floods, as ordinary brooks ; which would not so well admit of " hatches, mains, and carriers," — would tear the works asunder ; unless guarded with extraordinary care. How ad- vantageous, where calcareous water is thus under command ! And how long the ad- vantage has been reaped, in this division of the Chalk Hills ; and in this, only.

The "Long-grass Meads" of Orcheston.

It will be right to premise, that my visit to these meadows, at so early a season, — the 26 April (1794.) was a matter of circum- stance, rather than of choice ; and all, I ex- pected to gain by it, was a general idea of their situation, their soil, and the formation of their surface, or the manner in which the water is applied to them ; with little hope of ascertaining the herbage. But I happen- ed to find them, in a peculiar state ; and a sketch of what struck me, in the cursory view I took of them, may be useful, to those who shall hereafter examine them, at a more favourable season.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 339

The situation of these grounds is a gentle dip, or shallow valley, formed by smooth easy swells of the Downs ; — such a passage, as is frequently seen, towards the heads of vallies, in every chalk-hill district.

The soil, too, is a pale-brown loam ; si- milar to the soils usually found, in the bot- toms, between such chalky swells. It was, at the time I saw it, as firm and dry, as the Downs on either side of it.

The surface remains as nature left it : no artificial formation, whatever, appears to have taken place. The part, which receives the benefit of the water, is merely a dilation of the base of the valley ; which, above and below this expansion, contracts, so as to give no width of space, for the water to lodge upon ; the sides of the valley shelv- ing down, immediately, to the channel of the rivulet : whereas, the surface of the mea- dowy part is level, or inconsiderably dishing.

This open part of the valley, containing some four or five acres, is cut into four com- partments, by cross fences. The uppermost includes, merely, a narrowing point of the dilation ; and appears to be used as a pas- ture ground. The lowermost has, formerly, been inclosed ; but the hedges having been neglected, it now, in effect, lies open to the downs. It nevertheless appears to be still used, as a mowing ground. The two mid- dle divisions, containing only two or three

Z 2

34o AGRICULTURE.

acres, are those of which fame has long spoken in mystic language.

The water, by which such wonders have been wrought, is one of those periodical springs, that appear to be common to the chalk hills of this Island : similar to the gypsies of Yorkshire, and the bourns of Surrey a::d Kent.

The water of Orcheston usually breaks out (at some distance above these meadows) about Christmas: but, in 1794, not until within a few weeks before I saw them ; and, then, the supply must have been inconsi- derable ; as it only entered the middle mea- dows, with a feeble stream, the day I went over them ; when a narrow slip of the up- permost ground, was deeplv covered, with pale-colored, chalky water ; as we fre- quently see similar hollows, in times of nocds. The three lower grounds had lain, entirely dn\ until that time : a circum- stance which had not, I was told by an elderly laborer, who has frequently mown in these grounds, been known within me- mory.

The herbage) at that time, and under these circumstances, was as follows.

It varied in the different compartments, and appeared, throughout, in irregular plots.

Much of the lowest meadow, (and some small parts of the other) was thickly co- vered with a species of afopecurus, or fox-

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 341

tail ; which, in stature, resembled the pra- tcnsiSy or meadow foxtail ; but, in the man- ner of its growth, the geniculates, or marsh, or flote foxtail. Some of this grass was then in head, — a few individuals in blow, and from two to two and a half feet high. Much of that which had not yet shot up its spikes, was from twelve to fifteen inches high : having the appearance, at some di- stance, of a very full crop of grass, — at this early season !

In the middle meadows, a soft openblad- ed grass prevailed ; apparently an agrostis, or bent grass ; but not having then sent up its panicle, its particular species did not ap- pear.* This grew in small upright bunches, without any apparent aptitude to trail. The next most prevailing plant, in this compart- ment, was the mild, or creeping crowfoot (ranunculus repens) with some plants of the common crowfoot (ranunculus acris) then very tall and luxuriant.

The interspaces, of these tall plants and bunches of herbage, were in a manner bare; saving some scattered plants of nettles, com- frey, scorpion weed (myosotis scorpioides),

* In 1797, — By the information of a person, who went to gather specimens of the herbage of these mea- dows, presently before hay harvest, — " the springs did not rise, as usual" : and he found them in a state of pas- turage ; "the grass not being good enough to mow". The season dry.

342 AGRICULTURE.

and groundivy ■ — the last is a natural inha- bitant of dry banks ; and is a strong symp- tom of the absorbency of the subsoil.

These grounds, I was told, are mown everv year: sometimes t\%ice. Mv infor- mant has cut three loads, an acre. The her- bage hangs together, as wool : — " hard work to mow it ; — very long, Sir ; — five feet high ; — fourteen feet long." But he spoke in the tone of enthusiasm ; and pro- bably by rote.

To gain full information respecting these extraordinary grounds (for such they doubt- less are) they should have a day's examina- tion, presently before they are mown. The occupiers should be apprized, — proper tools be provided, to search beneath the surlV. — and ample specimens of the subsoil, the soil, and the herbage should be taken. A specimen of the water, taken at the season, when it is known to be most beneficial, would likewise be requisite, for the purpose of analysis.

Remarks. By far the most important part of the information, that my transient view of these celebrated grounds afforded me, is the manner in which they are water- ed. No art appears to be used ; except that of diverting the rivulet, from its narr channel, on one side of the meadow, and spreading it over the area, in one continu- ous pod of STAGNANT WATER ! Not On the

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 343

scientific principle of circulation ; but on the more simple and natural one of flood- ing ; agreeably to the obsolete practice of floating upwards:* a practice which, it is highly probable, was once prevalent, in this part of the Island. The term " drown- ing", which is now inaptly applied to the modern practice, strongly corroborates this suggestion. Seeing the natural flatness, of the vallies of these hills, little art is wanted, to produce the required stagnation. And it may be further conceived, that, where the substrata were open, and suffered the re- maining moisture (after the body of the wa- ter was let off) to drain away, quickly, from the roots of the herbage, so as to permit them to act, presently after the water was discharged, vegetation was rapid : whereas, in places, where the subsoil retained the water, in the soil, it not only prevented a quickness of vegetation, but chilled the roots of the better herbage ; and brought aquatic weeds in their stead.

These circumstances would naturally lead to some expedient, for getting rid of the su- perfluous moisture of the soil, as quickly as possible ; and none was more apt, or more easily obtained, than that of throwing the soil into ridges, in the manner in which it now lies. Indeed, where the substrata are

* See Midland Counties, Min : in.

AGRK

retentive, this expedient seems essential lr necessary, to the advantageous operation oi \varer. The steep sides of hills are bene- fited, in a sim . - WestofEmg-c

ID.

Bl: e the substrata are sufficiently

permeable, to suffer the superfluous water o^ the soil, to pass off quick . so as to allow the roots of the herbage immediate power of act an expedient, if we may judge

from the single instance before us, may not be necessary : may even be injurious.

A brief Sketch of the General Manage- of the watered Grounds of Wiltshire.

The print :n of watering is

the latter part of autumn, and the early part inter. It beg:ns soon after Michaelmas, and continues until between Candlemas, and Ladyday, — when the meadows are laid dry, for the ewes and lames ; which continue • 11 about "George's tide"; the latter end of April.

The meadows are then shut up, for hay ; and occasional -ed, as the season may

require. They are always mown once, and sometimes twice, for hay.

The aftl . •• expended

on cows : it being an universally received

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 345

opinion, which is probably founded on ex- perience, that water meads, though they are highly salubrious to sheep, in early spring, are dangerous to them in the summer months. A remarkable fact : if such it is. The cows remain in the meadow, until the season of watering.

SHEEP. The myriads of sheep, that are observable, on these hills, in the summer months, and, in the vallies, in the spring, cannot fail to interest the agricultural tra- veller. The number is immense ; and, by reason of the nakedness of the country, they are all seen.

The breed, which has, perhaps, for cen- turies, been in full possession of this DivU sion of the Chalk Hills, appears, evidently, to be a variety of the horned sheep, of the western mountains. See West of Eng- land, Section sheep.

They are distinguishable, from the other varieties of this breed of horned sheep, in their size, and particularly in their height ; being of the tallest sheep in the Island. They are also to be distinguished by the closeness of their horns, and the uniformity of their heads ; as well as by the nakedness of their barrels; the under part beingfreefrom wool ; having only a thin covering of short silvery hair^

They are remarkable for an evenness of form ; which, in the best flocks, is, even

346 AGRICULTURE.

now, above mediocrity ; fifty years ago, they were, doubtless, the highest bred sheep, in the Island. They are not only well formed, and well fleshed, but are able to travel far to their food, and to bear the fold. Their wool, too, is of a good quality. Their color is uniformly white ; — or some very few, wholly black I*

The principal objection to this breed of sheep, on thin-soiled high lands, is their size. Were it not for the watered grounds, they could not have been so long supported ; nor could they, perhaps, without them, have ever been brought to their present size.

The Southdown breed (which will be men- tioned under the next Division of the Chalk Hills) are, at present, contending for the pos- session of these enviable heights ; and there is little doubt, I believe, of their being sin- gularly entitled to them.

The flocks are chiefly of breeding ewes ; it having been long the practice of the west-

* Color of sheep. It is a striking fact, in natural history, that of the different breeds of English sheep, though the male and female are perfectly white, and their ancestry the same, perhaps, for several generations, they are liable to produce a lamb that is entirely black. Whereas, in most or all other species of animals, the color of the offspring usually partakes of that ot the sire and that of the dam, jointly ; being mottled, or of a shade between them. And, with respect to the faces and legs of English sheep, this is generally the case; while the fleeces arc wholly white, or wholly black.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 347

ernDivision of theChalk Hills, to furnish the eastern Division with vvedder lambs ; as will appear in speaking of that Division : into which, also, the Southdown breed, is now making its entrance : so that the long esta- blished breed of Wiltshire and Hampshire are routed, in every quarter ; and may soon be extinct.

On the management of sheep, a cursory view of a country cannot afford full infor- mation. Nevertheless, one who has a know- ledge of the general subject, and who is accustomed to make observations, catches many particulars of practice, which a mere traveller is liable to miss. By observing the Wiltshire flocks, at different seasons, and by conversing with intelligent shep- herds, who occasionally fell in my way, I have gained, I find, sufficient information, to give a sketch of

The economy of the ewe flock. The rams are admitted, in October ; with the intent of giving the lambs the full advan- tage of the water meads ; that they may acquire an early luxuriance of growth: not altogether, through a flush of milk, from the ewes ; but by being permitted to par- take of the choicest morsels, of the rich her- bage, when the.^e watered grounds afford ; es;x-eiaUv the flote fescue, which grows by the sides of the trenches, and the raygrass,

34? AGRICULTURE.

with which the whole abounds: it being" customary to suffer them, to run before the ewes : by leaving narrow passes, between the hurdles, to permit the lambs, and re- strain the ewes.

At night, they are folded, on the arable lands, in the neighbourhood of the mea- dows; the ewes having hay given to them. in the fold ; to correct the succulencv oi' the herbage : while the warmth of the ibid, at this early season, is probably of ad van-* tage to the lambs.

During summer, the ewes and lambs have the best of the cultivated herbage, of the leys that have been mentioned ; with tares, or other green food, in the fold, at night : every endeavor being used, to force the lambs, forward, to the greatest size possible, for the autumnal fair of Weyhill (held at Michaelmas) where the wedder lambs are mostly sold. With this view, they are suffered to suck the ewes, all the summer ; being weaned only a few weeks, before Michaelmas; when the best of them are put to rape, or other forcing food, to fill them out, for market: the worst being kept on, for store wedders ; and are put out to winter feedage, in the low grounds, with the ewe lambs, the first winter, at the high price, I understand, of six or seven shillings, a head, from Michaelmas to Ladyday.

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 3,9

The culled or offcast ewes 2*0 chiefly, I believe, into Somersetshire ; to be fatted on the " moors/' or marshes, of that county.

Tlie young ewes are kept on the higher downs, the year round ; hay stacks being seen scattered, on the hills, for their relief, in winter.

The sheepfold of this country is set out very large ; especially, perhaps, "for ewes and lambs. One. for seven hundred ewes, or large lambs (or three hundred and fifty couples, in July) measured fiftyseven yards, bv forty two; which give more than three square yards, to each, or near seven, to a couple. And being usually fed, in these spacious folds, they probably experience little, if any, inconveniency, either from the confinement, or the want of food, during the time they are thus beneficially employed, in fertilizing the land.

The sheep rack, made use of, in these large folds, is simple and eligible. Its form is nearly that of half a hollow cylinder, of about eighteen inches in diameter, and six or eight feet long. It is formed, either of rods, or of laths, bent in the manner of a waggon tilt, or awning ; spaces being left for the sheep to get at the food, which rests on the ground, — its natural basis ; where it is effectually protected, from waste, by this simple guard. Several of these racks are placed, in different parts of the fold, pre-

35o AGRICULTURE.

viously to the sheep being admitted. They are cheap, readily filled (by turning them on their backs) and easily removed.

In the common-field townships, where the farms are many of them small, and the lands lie intermixed. — and where it would be in a degree impracticable, for individuals to keep separate flocks, and graze and fold their own lands, — " town flocks" have been established.

To these, each occupier has the right of contributing a number of sheep, propor- tioned to the land he occupies: and the joint flock of each township are placed un- der the care of one principal shepherd; who, with respect to his flock, considers the entire township as one farm ; depasturing, with them, the downs, the lower grounds, and the meadow lands, in common ; and fold- ing them, on every man's land, according to his right, or agreeably to the established regulations of the township.

Theory may suggest, that endless diffi- culties, and disputes, must necessarily arise, from individual properties, and separate in- terests, being intermixed and rendered com- mon. But the long established practice, under notice, serves to show, that, where a common compact is requisite, to secure the interests of individuals, men's minds, seeing the reason and fitness of* he regulation, be- come reconciled to small difficulties, and

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 351

are satisfied to give and receive, recipro- cally, as circumstances require.

CATTLE. The cows, observable in this District, are mostly of the long-horned breed ; and those of the larger farmers are, some of them, good of this sort. But a great mixture and diversity are seen ; few of them being bred in the country. Those of the smaller farmers, are many of them very mean.

They are kept on the downs, in com- mon herds ; each township, or hamlet, having its cow-herd ; who drives them to the downs, tends them there, and brings them back, ill the evening, to be milked; distributing them among their respective owners, who take the charge of them during the night ; the herdsman collecting them, in the morning, by sound of horn : a cus- tom, probably, of many centuries standing. I have seen a hundred head, at least, in one of these " town herds/'

In summer, when the weather is sultry, the cows remain in the house or yard, and are fed, there, with grass and weeds, col- lected for them ; — or are suffered to drop their dung unprofitably, in lanes or other shady places, — during the heat of the day ; and are driven to the down, in the cool of the evening.

STATE OF HUSBANDRY. The out- line of management appears to be well

35* AGRICULTURE.

suited, to the soil, the climature, and the present state of inclosure ; and, in some in- stances, the execution is highly commend- able ; — the soil clean, and in good condi- tion : while, in many others, it is equally reprehensible; the leys occupied by weeds ; with but little nutritious herbage, to sup- port the flocks, that are pining away upon land, which, under proper culture, would afford them an ample maintenance. The wheat stubbles, too, are often seen, in a state of extreme foulness : and this, not- withstanding the crops of wheat, on the ground, generally look well : the dung and the fold, both of which are mostly expended on this crop, more especially the former, enable it to surmount all difficulties, of foulness in the soil. But the crop removed, the land reverts to its former state of un- productiveness.

The IMPROVEMENT, which strikes most forcibly, in a cursory view of these hills, is that of clean tillage; which, perhaps, can only be effected, by a change of the present unwieldy plow, and extrava- gant plow team. There is little if any land, I apprehend, tmtbin the District now under consideration, that might not be per- fectly well plowed, with two horses, and a proper plow : I mean, after it is once re- claimed from its present state of foulness.

If the loose nature of the Chalk-Hill soils

WESTERN CHALK HILLS. 353

require that they should be bound together, with roots, to secure the wheat crop, let them not be the roots of couchgrass ; but those of raygrass, white clover, trefoil, or some other useful plant ; in the manner, light sandy lands are held together, for that crop, in Norfolk. Dibbling the seed, into the whole furrow of clean raygrass and clover leys, either by hand, or by a dibbling roller, ought to be tried, with attention.

Breaking up the higher downs, that have been, time immemorial, in a state of pasturage, especially those which are now partially overgrown with heath and coarse herbage, would strike most observers, as an obvious improvement.

This, however, appears, to me, too im- portant a subject, to be decided upon, with- out very mature consideration : and the pro- priety, or impropriety, of doing it, in any case, may depend on a variety of circum- stances.

There are, doubtless, tracts of land, on these hills, that ought to be changed, from their present unproductive state. The one, which struck me most, lies between Peters- field and Alton, in the eastern quarter of the Hampshire Downs. It is of consider- able extent. The soil a deep loam, on gravel, — on chalk ! Its present produce is heath and bushes. By cultivation, it might be rendered of three times its present value.

vol. ii. A a

354 AGRICULTURE.

to the community. And there may be other tracts of a similar nature.

Even on the more ordinary Downs of Wiltshire, especially on the higher swells, there are lands that might, in much pro- bability, be improved; particularly those, on which a light, black, spungy, vegetable mold prevails: not however by tillage * I apprehend ; but by singing off the heath., and other rubbish, which at present occir much of the surface; and, then, by lime and heavy rolling. A trial, at least, ought to be made.

But, in regard to the firm, clean, produc- tive sheep downs, which cover a very large portion of the upper parts of these hills, it ftiight be difficult, perhaps, to devise means of rendering them more valuable, in any other state,\\\2iW that in which they are, at present ;— more especially, while the coun- try remains under its present system of management: improved they doubtless may be ; particularly with the sheepfold. But this is limited, and slow in its progress, and fe peculiarly valuable to the arable lands

THE

SOUTHERN DIVISION

OF THE

CHALK HILLS.

THIS NARROW tract of country shoots, eastward, from the Hampshire Downs: having the rich flat of the Sea Coast of Sussex, to the south ; with the sandy-loam District of Petworth, and the W^ald of Sussex, on the north; being terminated to the east, by the marsh lands of Peven-

SEA.

The EXTENT, from east to west, is fifty to sixty miles ; the width — three to six miles ; the superficial contents — two to three hundred square miles.

The ELEVATION of this range of hills is similar to that of other chalk downs: and, lying along the sea coast, their exact height might easily be ascertained.

In SURFACE, too, they resemble other chalk hills : except that the narrow range, A a 2

356 DISTRICT.

now under view, are separated, by deep vallies, into five distinct compartments : the "waters collected in the District of Petworth, and the Weald of Sussex, finding passages to the sea, through these vallies.

Remarks. What affords interesting mat- ter of reflection, to the geologist, the col- lecting surfaces have a natural tendency, to bring the waters towards these passages ; so that no lake, or collection, is formed, in any part of them.

Were the vallies worn, by waters, origi- nally pent up, behind the hills, while the chalk was yet in a soft papous state ? or did the same force, which separated the line of chalk, rend the clay and sand, while yet plastic ; and did the closing of the chasms, give the present inclination of surface?

This is not a singular, though a striking

case. The extraordinarv outlet to the waters

j

of the Vale of Pickering (see Yorkshire) as well as the rents, in the limestone heights, on its northern margin, are of a similar nature. In like manner, too, the Valley of Amesbury receives the waters of the Vale of Pewsey. The Medway, below Maid- stone, is let out, through the Chalk Hills of Kent, in a similar way : also the Stower, below Ashford ; and the Mole through those of Surrey, at Dorking.

It is difficult to explain, on rational prin- ciples, the existing form of the earth's sur-

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 357

face : yet how interesting is the subject, to those who inhabit it. If the nature of the materials of which it is composed, the vege- table productions it bears, and the animals it nurtures, are important subjects of in- quiry, surely, what the inhabitants of the earth may well term the face of nature, cannot be indifferent ; especially to those whose station in life is to cultivate it ; to turn every portion of it to ihe profit of the species ; and to suit every part to its most profitable purp. se.

The hills, under view, give rise to ano- ther train of ideas, which relate to the for- mation of the earth's surface ; and belong to what might be termed the process of agi- tation, which gave it the present form. The Dovvns of Sussex, and the opposite hills of Surrey and Kent, appear to have been im- pe jd, in different directions. The hills of Sussex dip southward ; shelving down to the rich lands of the coast ; which probably rest on their skirts ; the north side of these hills showing a steep broken cliff.

On the contrary, the hills of Surrey dip, northward, with a gently shelving surface, towards the Thames, and with a high bro- ken cliff, to the south ; the low, vale dis- trict of Horsham separating these two strongly featured ranges of high lands ; which are prominently conspicuous to each

358 DISTRICT.

other ; though they are placed near twenty miles asunder

The hills of England most generally, shelve southward, or eastward ; seldom to the north or west. Thus, the mountains and Wolds of Yorkshire ; the Chalk Hills of Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire; the Cot^wold Hilis of Glocestershire ; and the Chalk Hills of Wilishire and of Susses, — dip to the south, or east , having high bro- ken steeps, 10 the north or west. The lulls of Kent and Surrey, the Isle of Wight, and and other hills, in mv recollection, are ex- ceptions to this more general rule.

A geological map of England, shaded somewhat agreeably to the sketch, I have given of Yorkshire, showing, not only its mountain, upland, and vale districts, but givipg an adequate idea of their elevations, and casts of surface, would, in the instant, be a valuable acquisition to science. And, whenever the government of tins country shall turn their attention to the country it- self, such a map, or maps pointing out, at sight, the elevation, the turn of surface, the waters, the soils, and the substrata, as they relate to agricultuke, will be found to be an acquirement of considerable value.

A sketch of its agricultural depart- ments I have attempted, with a degree of success.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 359

THE four Vallies, which separate the Sussex Downs, are those of Arundel, Shore- hjm, Lewes, and Seaford. The part which is included between the Hampshire hills, and the valley of Arundel, is called the " west " downs" : — the other four divisions — the •' south downs"; — probably, in contradis- tinction, to the Downs of Surrey ; which, as has been shown, are situated to the north of them.

To speak of the south downs, with greater ease and precision, it will be conve- nient to subdivide them, into the middle or main downs, included between the vallies of Arundel and Lewes ; and the east dozens, comprising the two smaller compartments, to the eastward of the valley of Lewes.

The INFORMATION, which I gained, respecting this department of the Chalk Hills, was gathered, in repeated excursions from Petworth, and was confined to the three most westerl}', or principal divisions. The two, to the eastward, which are com- paratively small, I had not a favorable op- portunity of examining.

The SOILS of the Sussex Downs vary, from black, spungy, vegetable mold, to a strong, deep, flinty loam ; this division par- taking, in the nature of its soils, equally of the eastern and the western Divisions ; being, in this particular, a mean between them. The most prevailing soil, on these, as on all

360 DISTRICT.

other chalkv downs; is a light -colored cal- careous loam.

The SUBSTRUCTURE appears, in the different quarries worked, on

the sides of the clift- The quarries of Houghton, hi the upper part of the

>f Arundel, are the most considerable ; as they are favor uated, on the imme-

bank of the Arun navigation :* the d, by hand, down an easy . from the r barges. These

quarries show a uniform mass of chalk, from one to two hundred feet in depth : the face being kept, nearlv perpendicular. The whole is thrown down, bv hand, with- out blasting ; and is conveyed to the barges in large barrows (with two small wh carrying a quarter of a ton, each ; the chalk

ng weighed into the barrow

ith the marine jcid, three specimens* taken from the upper, the middle, and the lower strata of the lo: I the

Hou_ as follow.- : the

upper and middle strata afforded only one Srain of residue, each ! the lower stratum three grains, — a erev, sub-tenaci- The inconsiderable portion of indissoluble matter, of the great mass of these rocks, is color, and fine enough to insi- nuate itself into the pores of the paper.

LO of S

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 361

It is to be observed, that, when chalk is intended to be burnt into lime, especially with wood, the blocks and larger pieces, only, are used. The rubble and smaller pieces, which break off, in quarrying, are unsaleable ; and are thrown aside, as rub- bish : hence, the immense mounds, which are noticed, in the District of Petworth, as a proper subject, for experiment. See page 176.

Thequarriesof DuNCTON,in the more im- mediate face of the northern cliff, and from which the western extremity of the Weald of Sussex is supplied, with chalk, for lime, disclose, on the contrary, a variety of strata. The upper parts of the steep are composed of " white chalk", which is burnt for ma- nure, and answers to the white chalk of the Houghton quarries; (the hill, here, being much higher, than at Houghton) : beneath tiiis, is a deep stratum ol * grey chalk", which is burnt for cement, and is of a su- perior quality, for this purpose : and, be- low this, is a bed of " marl" ; — a still fouler chalk : the more immediate base of the bill being the " maam" soil, which is particu- larized, in the District of Petworih.

Remarks. This species of strong cal- careous soil* is not peculiar to the West

* By analysis, the maam soil for black " v.heat land") of Duncton (at the immediate foot of the hill] yielded

362 DISTRICT.

Downs of Sussex, but is to be found, per- haps, in a greater or less quantity, at the foot of everv high chalk cliff of this Island. I have observed it at the foot of the Betch- vorth hills, in Surrey, Maamscot and Wrotham hills, in Kent, at the foot of the Hampshire hills, near Petcrsfield, and of the Wiltshire hills, by Warminster. Where - ever the height of the cliff is greater, than the depth of the mass of chalk which forms it, this species of soil, which appears to be its natural adjunct, is probablv to be found, at its base.

It may be observed, that, in one oi^ the quarries of white chalk, in the upper part of the face of the steep, above Duncton, a thin stratum, or list, of three or lour inches in thickness, runs, nearlv horizontally, but taking a somewhat wavey line, across the middle of the quarrv. It has something of the appearance of fuller's earth ; but is cal- careous. The quarrymen call it " marl flour." It is a species of calcareous fossil, I have not noticed, elsewhere : at least, not in a similar situation. *

only seven and a halt grains, — while that of Gmffham ;'nf a browner color, and interspersed with granules 00 rded fortyfive and a halt grains, percent, <>t calcareous matter. The residue, of both, brown silt : that o{ the latter being the finest, and most tenacious.

* By analysis, with the marine add, an hundicd grains of this fossil yielded forty one grains of cakai

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 363

STATE OF INCLOSURE. These downs being little more than a single range of hills, they are chiefly laid to the town- ships on either side of them. Hence, even the small village inclosures, which are seen on most other chalk hills, are here, except in a few instances, wanting.

The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS, of this tract of hill country, are similar to those of the western Division. The values con- tain meadozus, and marsh lands — provin- ciality "brook lands." The slopes and lower stages of the hills, bear arable crops. The tops of the hills are sheep zcalks: mostly of fine turf; but with a mixture of furze and heath. And some of the steeper surfaces,

earth ; leaving fiftynine grains of impalpable matter ; resembling fuller's earth, but somewhat darker colored.

For analyses of the chalks of Dun c ton", see the District of Petwortk, page 183.

The " marl'' of Deass Wood, on the opposite side of the hill (mentioned in page 237.) yields ninety- eight grains, percent, of calcareous matter.

The "marls" of the sea coast (seepage 236.) yielded as follows: a specimen taken from an undis- turbed mass, in the iace of the beach, presently alter being left by the tide, and then in a state ot firm pr^re, yielded (having been previously dried) ninetysix grains, — another specimen, picked up loose on the beach, in the tide's way, ninetyeight and a half grains, percent ; being of course a chalk of the purest, and most valuable quality ; yet suffered, century after century, to lie in a state of neglect, and useless to the species ! See as above.

364 DISTRICT.

cially of the West Downs, are hung

In the light of ORNAMENT, this range of chalk hills differ, little, from the Y< shire and the Wiltshire Downs : excepting that the sea, here, generally enters into the view ; and excepting a lovely passage, round Find on, (a well soiled, well sheltered flat, or midway stage, of the compartment be- tween the vallies of Arundel and Shoreham) which is one of the most habitable situa- tions. I have any where observed, upon the chalk hills of England. In other respects, whether we view the abrupt broken cliffs, or the summits which crown them, or the opposite margins, shelving to a rich district, the South Downs, the Downs of Sur- rey, and the Wolds of Yorkshire, are the same. The passages of country, between Shoreham and Brighthelm^ton, between Croydon and Epsom, and between Beverley and Driffield, have a striking similarity in their appearances.

The most interesting circle of vil that caught mv eve, on these hills, are seen from the West Downs, above Arundel park. Two of them are singularly grand, and various in feature. On the one hand, the wooded declivity, from Arundel to Good- wood, spreads, as a foreground. Chichester, the Isle of Selsey, and the rich lands c. coast, compose the center of the view : the

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 365

sea, and the Isle of Wight rising proudly out of it, the distance : Spithead, with its shipping, forming a clear and interesting part of the picture. On the other, the finely broken grounds of Petworth and Pul- borough appear at hand, partially skreen- ing the vale of Horsham, backed by the Lethe Hills, which form a prominent and striking feature ; Box Hill, and other hills of Surrey, appearing in the furthest dis- tance.

WOODLANDS.

THE PRINCIPAL part of the Wood- lands, of these hills, hang on the southern declivity of the west downs ; with some on the northern steep, of the same com- partment.

These woods are chiefly beech; but with a mixture of oak, and ash.

Near the foot of the southern hang, above Walberton, is the finest grove of beeches, I have any where observed. The trees are thick on the ground, and tall, beyond com- parison. Many of them are fifty feet, in the stem ; as clean, and almost as straight, as gun barrels. In 1791, the largest size was four feet in girt ; and if they remain, in

366 WOODLANDS.

the crowded state in which they then stood, their furure growth must necessarily be re- tarded. The soil is a dark-colored loam ; the subsoil — calcareous rubble, on a deep bed of marl : a true beech and sainfoin soil. In thinning, or rather culling, one of the beech woods above Slindon, I observed, that the WARE, cut out, was chiefly rails, and other scantling, for the Northumber- land COLLIERIES.

The durability of beech timber, in water and moist situations, being now well un- derstood, these woods will, no doubt, be henceforward of great value. And there are many sites on the chalk and limestone hills of this Island, on which it would pay am- ply for propagation.

The oak, and the ash, do not thrive, on the higher parts of these hills. The former becomes stunted, and mossy, and the latter is eaten up, with the canker. The beech is the natural timber tree of chalk hills : es- pecially, in bleak, exposed situations.

AGRICULTURE

THE MAIN OBJECT I had, in going over this Division of the Chalk Hills, was that of gaining some knowledge of its SHEEP,

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 367

which have, of late years, grown into high estimation ; and are, still, rapidly spread- ing over the southern parts of the king- dom. I am, therefore, unprepared for a detail of its husbandry ', and shall only notice a few general heads.

It may here be remarked, that, before the Woodlands of Sussex were cleared, the range of hills, under notice, had probably little, if any communication, with those of Surrey and Kent. Hence, in some part, the difference in their practices. Trie practice of the hills of Sussex, as well as of their out- skirts or margins, on either side of them, resembles, in many particulars, that of the WesternDi vision of the Chalk Hills ; and the still more western districts of the Island.

FARMS. In a cursory examination of these hills, and judging from the similarity, and great size, of the flocks of sheep, which everywhere meet the eye, they would seem to be wholly divided, into large farms. But many of the flocks, here, as on the western hills, are parochial, or aggregations of the flocks of small farmers, whose lands lie con- tiguous, or intermixed.

Nevertheless, farms of sufficient extent, and with a happy union of sheep walk, arable lands, and marshes, are to be found, in different parts of these hills * And some

* The farms of Applesham, and North Stoke,

368 AGRICULTURE.

that are too extensive, for individuals to cultivate, with propriety. I have been well informed, that, on one estate, there are three farms, of a thousand pounds, avear, each.

FARMERS. From what I have seen of the larger occupiers of these hills, they are not only opulent, but intelligent : husband- men of the highest class.

The BEASTS OF DRAFT are in the greater part, I apprehend, horses ; but with a large portion of oxen, of the Sussex breed .

IMPLEMENTS. On the middle or main downs, the turnwrest plow is solely in use. But, generally, I believe, of a lighter frame, than the ordinary one of Kent. On the Brighthelmston downs, I saw one, m barley seed time, worked with two horses : not abreast with reins : but driven, at length. On the east downs, I understand, the same plow is prevalent.

PLAN OF HUSBANDRY. The great object, to which every view of the South- down farmer appears to be directed, is sheep. The hill lands may be said to be appropri- ated to them. A large portion, more than one third of these lands, is kept in a state of perennial sheep-walk : and a very con-

thc property of the Earl of Egremont, and occu- pied by Mr. Gell, and Mr. Saver, are of this de- sirable cast ; and there arc lew farms, in the kingdem, under better management.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 369

siderable part of the arable crops. — as tur- neps, rape, tare?, rye. and ley herbage, — are cultivated for their maintenance ; and are intermixed with corn crops, as the wants of the flock require: there being. I beli no establ regular course of practice

followed.

What distinguishes this division of the Chalk Hills, from the western d'.v respect to the sheep husband] of water meadows, for their s : of

course, a greater exertion is requisite to be made, on the aral ids, for their due

support, at that season. The grass of the brooklands comes too late, for th >ose;

and is chiefly j I believe, applied tograz

SHEEP. The nvmber, maintained on these hills, is greater, in pro:: extent, than that of the Western D not altogether on account of the compara- tive smallness of the breed ; but a gres proportion, of the arable land, is at ; appropriated to sheep, here, than on the Hampshire and Wiltshire hii-

Theo: e rs, of the sheep husbandry , on the Sussex Downs, at present, are those of rearing weddef lambs ; for the hill farfi of the Eastern Division of the Chalk H and other parts of the South of England ; — also ewe lambs, for spread. breed,

over the Western Division, and other parts ; and aged ewes, for the same p Als ? :•.

VOL. II. B b

37o AGRICULTURE.

few store zvedders; for folding, oney ear: they being generally sold, at eighteen months old ; and chiefly, 1 believe, to the Kent and Surrey farmers. But, since the great demand for this breed has taken place, fewer wedder-teg flocks have been kept, than formerly : breed- ing flocks being now found more profitable. The breed varies. On the West Drains, a wild-looking, base-bred sort are seen: mostly white faced, and various as to horn ; having the same mongrel appearance, as the mountain sheep of the West of England : and they are, probablv, the unreclaimed native stock of these hills ; retaining their miscellaneous state, for want of selection ; and their comparatively small size, with respect to the Wiltshire sheep, for want of watered meadows: this breed commencing eastward of the valley of Lavant, with which the watered meadows, of the western hills, end : — a strongly corroborating evi- dence, that the present size of the Wiltshire breed has been obtained, by that forcing spring food. *

Some apology, for the inferiority of the West Down breed, may also be found, in the downs themselves ; which are of an infe- rior quality, and remain, more, in the un- reclaimed forest state, than any other passage of the western, or the southern Chalk Hills. Eastward of the valley of Arundel, and to

♦ Sec page 34.-.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 37i

the easternmost extremity of this Division, a breed of sheep are found, of a description, very different from those of the West Downs, and still more widely, from those of the Western Division, — in stature, frame, color, and wool : though, by no means, so select, and uniform, in these respects, as the Wilt- shire breed.

This distinct breed of sheep is well known, in many parts of the South and West of England, by the name of the South Down breed.

The individuals, as has been intimated, differ somewhat, in their frame and wool, and more in their countenances. What may be considered, as the true South Down sheep, I conceive to be of the following description. The carcass thick ; yet some- what loose ; owing to a deficiency, behind the shoulders. The legs of a middle length, and the stature, altogether, of the middle height ; (between the small heath sheep, that are found in various parts of the Island, and the Wiltshire breed). The bone of the legs rather large ; yet their flesh is of a good quality. The head and neck thick, and short. The fleece remarkably close, and fine; and long, considering its fineness: particularly full, on the neck ; giving the head a muffled appearance. The face and legs black, or dark grey. The head invariably poled, or hornless.

Bbs

-: AGRICULTURE.

But, in looking over the flocks of these Downs, great deviations, from this standard, are observable ; particularly, in a thinness of carcass, an openness of fleece, and in the color of the legs and face. On exa- mining, witji some attention, the flocks on what may be called the Brighthelmstcxi compartment of the South Downs, beside remarking on the unevenness of their form, I took the following notice of their color : — about half the ewes, with white or slight- ly colored, one fourth, with mottled, and one fourth, with black, legs and faces. Some of the lambs, with mottled carcasses. And, on examining two separate, and large flocks, on the adjoining compartment, included be- tween the vallies of Shoreham and Arundel, I observed a similar disparity, and want of evenness, in frame, and color.

Of the origin of the Southdown breed, or how long it has been confined to the nar- row limits, within which, until lately, it has been kept, I have never heard the least in- timation. On my first view of it, in 1791, it appeared to me a matter of surprise, that a breed, so very different, in rianv essential prcperties, as well as popular marks and distinctions, from every other, I had, then, more particularlv examined* should have found their way into, and retained exclus possession of, this small tract of country. But having, since, seen the breeds of the W-

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS, 373

of England, and bestowed much thought on the different varieties, that appear to have sprung, from the native, or ancient breed of the western mountains, I see nothing in the South Down sheep, to show, that they are not, merely, a variety of this original stock. Xor can I discern any other characteristic, in the poled, grey -faced sheep of the South Hams of Devonshire, and the poled, grey- faced sheep of the South Downs of Sussex, than what soil, or rather food, and clima- ture, may have given There appears to me nothing, either in the size of the carcass, or the length of the wool, which these may not have effected. And I have no doubt of a breed of sheep, resembling that of the South Downs, being, even yet, to be raised from individuals which might be chosen, from the unreclaimed flocks of Devonshire and Cornwall.

The present quality of the wool of the Southdown breed, may either have arisen from the fineness of the Southdown pastu- rage; or from the original selection, through which the variety was propagated ; or from its having, since, been the fashion of the dis- trict, to breed it. Even to this day, wool and bone are the two points aimed at, by Southdown farmers, even of the higher class.*

* 1797. In passing and repassing Dartmoor, this summer, since the above remarks were written, I

w AGRICULTURE.

Whatever attention may, heretofore, have been bestowed on this breed, it was pretty evident, at the time I first examined it, on its native hills, that little attention had, for some length of time been paid to it : even the best Hocks, I then saw, were very uneven ; and, evidently, in a state of neglect.

About, and since, that time, some consi- derable attention has been paid to it ; espe- cially on the Ec;st Downs.-f But with what success, I am not able to speak, with suffi- cient knowledge of the subject : not having had a favorable opportunity of examining the new variety, on its native ground. And as there appears to be doubts, as to the na- ture of the improvement, yet effected, I forbear to risk any remarks of my own, on this part of the subject.

All I can say, from my own knowledge, of the general subject is, that, in the breed at large, there is very great improvement to be made ; and that he who unites, in the best manner, the four essential qualities of hill 5-help ; nam iv, fine close wool, well- flavored mutton, an inclination to fat early, and a sufficient strength of frame and con- paid particular attention to the sheep that fell within my view • and distinguished several individuals, which so much resembled, in frame and color, the Southdown sheep ot the above description, that they might well have deceived the eyt> even of a Southdown farmer.

t Particularly, I believe, by Mr. Ellman, of Glynde, near Lewes.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 375

stitution, to stand the fold, will, in my opi- nion, be the best friend to his country.

I cannot refrain from noticing, here, with some concern, the evident jealousies, and a degree of contention, which exist, between the Southdown, and the Romney Marsh breeders ; as if each were contending for the whole country! whereas, these two breeds, in their present states, are calculated for two opposite descriptions of soils and situations. The South Downs, for upland arable districts, to grow line wool, and fill the fold, in situations which require it. The Romney Marsh, for rich low lands, to pro- duce long wool, and to throw into the mar- ket the greatest quantity of mutton, with the least bone and other offal, without re- gard to activity or strength of frame. And it is to be feared, that, by endeavoring to accommodate their flocks, to both these de- scriptions of country, they will render them improper for either.

The present breed of the South Downs is admirably adapted to every department of Chalk Hills, and Limestone Heights, in the kingdom ; and, particularly, to those that are destitute of watered meadows : they having been long moulded to that descrip- tion of country : and the first step towards their improvement is, evidently, that of making them evenly good with the best of the established breed : without refining too

ii

6 AGRICULTURE.

much, or copying, implicitly, the principles of improvement, that have been applied, with happy effect, in meliorating a breed, which is suited to a different purpose ; — excepting so far as relates to filling up the deficiency of the fore quarter.

The description of flocks has been in- timated, as being that of breeding ezies ; with a few small vedder flocks, for folding ; but with very few, if any, fatting Jiocks; except in the brooklands, or marshes.

Ewe flocks. The usual size is five hun- dred. For although the larger farmers keep a thousand, fifteen hundred, or a greater number of breeding ewes, they seldom, I believe, place more than five hundred in one flock, or under the care of one shep- herd. And the town flocks I found divided, in the same way.

The rams, which I saw, were not well chosen : and I was informed, by an intelli- gent shepherd, on the Brighton quarter of the Downs, that little cost, or even atten- tion, is bestowed on them. The uneven- ness of the flocks is, therefore, a necessary consequence of neglect.*

The time of admitting the rams would seem to vary, with situation, or climature: for, in 1791, there was nearly a fortnight

* When I went over the District, in April, the rams ■were among the ewes and lambs, in heads, as male deer are seen, in parks, at the same season.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 377

difference, between the eastern banks of the Arun, and the bleaker heights of the Brighthelmston quarter, in

The time of lambing. Ladyday is spoken of, as the usual time of commencing. But, on the tenth of April, there were lambs, on the western quarter of the South Downs, three weeks or a month old. The majority of the lambs are dropped, in the early part of April ; continuing to fall, until the latter end, or the close of that month. On the 27th April, many of the ewes still retained their lambs.

The ewes of this breed mostly bring single lambs: but not unfrequently twins.

The foods of ewes and lambs, in this meadowless District, are various; as turneps, rape, raygrass, and perhaps rank wheat. The ewes, when I saw them, were mostly low in condition ; but the lambs, in general looked well : an evidence of the South Down ewes being good nurses ; though not a proof: for ewes, in general, when fed chiefly on turneps, will bring their lambs forward, while they are, themselves, sinking in condition.

Folding. Ewes and lambs are seldom folded, until the lambs have gathered some strength ; as at ten days or a fortnight old ; and, then, on clean sward, or ley grounds; shepherds objecting to folding them on

378 AGRICULTURE.

fallows, or broken ground, until after shear- ing time ; unless the weather be very dry. A superior manager keeps two folds stand- ing : one on grass, the other on fallow ; and drives his flock, to one or the other, as rain or dry weather directs : an accuracy of management, which others might copy ; the expence of an extra number of hurdles being its only inconveniency ; while the advantage, in some seasons, may be great.

On the north side of the West Downs, I met with a striking instance of the stoutness of the South Down, or M blackfaced" sheep, in regard to the fold. In this, and other instances, in that quarter, they are pas- tured, from the first shoot of spring, until autumn, upon the higher downs, and folded, sometimes every night, on the maam soil, at the foot of the northern steep!* up which they have to climb, in the morning, and perhaps a mile to travel, on the top of the hill, before they reach their pasture.

I know no breed of sheep, of a superior quality, except the South Down, or the Norfolk, which is capable of enduring such hardships. Nor, perhaps, could even the South Down breed support it ; unless under a principle of management, which is com- mon to this division of the Chalk Hills, and

• Sec District of Petworth, in page 167.

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 379

marks it strongly, as a distinguishing cha- racter, from the practice of the other Di- visions.

Instead of feeding them, in the fold, as is done, on the Wiltshire Hills (see page 349.) they are " slippered up with something good/' before they go to fold. Thus, in the instance noticed, and at the time I observed it, the middle of June, they had their fill of clover, trefoil, tares, &c. below hill, in the evening, before they went into the fold : in which they have leisure to chew the cud; and to digest their aliment, during the hours of rest. And, in the morning, their stomachs being emptied, they are not only able, but eager, to climb the hill, to their daily pas- ture.

On the Middle Downs, their supper food, I was informed, during a principal part of the year, is rape ; which is sown, from time to time, for this purpose : a practice, peculiar, I believe, to this division of the Chalk Hills of the Southern Counties.

In the shepherding of the South Down flocks, the following are the few particu- lars, which occurred to me.

Between the lambing, and the commence- ment of the fold, the ewes are " tailed," or trimmed, behind : an operation, which ought not, in any district, to be neglected. (See Yorkshire, on this particular). And during this interval, namely, at ten days to

38o AGRICULTURE.

a fortnight old, the male Limbs, that are not intended to be kept lor breeding, are c as- trated.

The shepherd's dog, of the South Downs, is stout, active, and intelligent: guarding his numerous flock, from the un fenced corn lands which surround them, with great cau- tion, and severe labor ; especially, where the surface is flinty. Being on his legs, the day long, his feet get battered, and full of corns, so as to render his services of short duration : rarely standing full work, more than three years.

The shepherd's crook is, here, in common use ; and is found in its best form.

The time of weaning the lambs is about the middle of July.

Their treatment varies. The wedder lambs, and such of the ewe lambs, as are in- tended for sale, at the ensuing Michaelmas, are put upon earlv sown rape, or other nu- tritious food, to fill them out, for market.

The ewe lambs, intended for breeding, are allowed less forcing fare ; being gene- rally kept from the ram, the first autumn ; and are usually confined, to the higher Downs, until they are eighteen months old ; when they are united with the ewe flock.

IMPROVEMENTS. The South Downs, as well as the Sea Coast of Sussex, do the agriculture of the county much credit. There are not many districts

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 381

in the kingdom, in which there are fewer great and obvious improvements to be made, than in these two.

In tillage, it is true, something is to be done. In the eastern parts of the main Downs, I saw much foul underworked land: the biennial thistles, so conspicuously dis- graceful to the Dorsetshire hills, being pre- dominant. But these were probably the lands of small village farmers : for the larger farms, I went over, were in a high state of cultivation.

The want of sainfoin", even on the larger farms, is, to me, the least reconcileable part of the South Down husbandry. The almost only piece, I particularly observed, was on the higher thinner lands ; yet the crop was good ; the plants even and full of vigor.

Perhaps, the last generation cropped the lower better lands, and the present are creep- ing higher up the hills. Or perhaps, sain- foin, which will not bear to be pastured, in summer, without great injury, is less con- venient, in the sheep husbandry, than the clovers, raygrass, and trefoil ; and it cer- tainly is most eligible, when cattle are the pasturing stock : and this may, in some measure, account for its infrequency, on the Wiltshire hills, the calcareous lands of the Isle of Wight; and the South Downs.

But, surely, a certain portion, for hay, would be valuable. And if it were sown

382 AGRICULTURE.

with clover, even on lands that may have been formerly cropped, it could scarcely fail, from the nature of its growth, to be found profitable. See vol. I. page 156.

In regard to water meadows, the South Down farmers ought not to be re- proached, for a want of them : because na- ture has not furnished either proper land, or suitable water, to make them with. This single ridge of hills has no lengthened val- lies, with broad waterformed bases, as those of the Western Division ; nor, if they had, are they supplied with copious streams of cal- careous waters, to irrigate them: excepting the valley of Lavant ; and that is watered.

The dissecting vallies, that have been mentioned, can scarcely be said to belong to the Chalk Hills. The waters, which pass through them, are chiefly collected, from clayey and sandy surfaces ; some of them the astringent ouzings of heathy soils, or peat bogs : and the brooklands or marshes, themselves, have doubtless been formed with materials, washed from these surfaces ; with, perhaps, a valuable mixture of marine silt, or sea mud.

It aptlv occurs, however, that the waters of the valley of Amesburv, are mostly col- lected, in the vale of Pewsev, a sandy dis- trict. But the vale of Pewsey is beset with chalk, on almost every side ; and its own base is probably calcareous. The principal

SOUTHERN CHALK HILLS. 383

part of the waters that pass down the val- ley of Amesbury, it is more than probable, has filtered through chalk : whereas those which escape, through the vallies of Sussex, have most of them passed through less fer- tilizing strata.

The great body of the water, absorb- ed by the Chalk Hills of Sussex, is doubtless conveyed, through subterranean passages, to the sea ; to which these hills have been said to dip. Nevertheless, some part of it, as has been mentioned, in the District of Pet worth, is discharged at the feet of the northern cliffs, and passes into the Arun : and the whole line of cliffs, no doubt, have a similar discharge,

Hence, the waters of these rivers are not wholly destitute of the calcareous principle; and it certainly belongs to those, who have large properties, in the marsh lands through which they pass, to ascertain their quality ; and to try, by forming them into steep- sided beds, and throwing the water on, in the Wiltshire manner, whether they are, or are not, proper subjects of improvement.

Lastly, with respect to the rough down lands, which cover a part of the summits of the Sussex, as of other, chalk hills, bear- ing furze, heath, and the coarser grasses, — as well as the finer sheep downs, of the lower stages, — it appears to be a matter of doubt, whether they are, in general, capable

384 AGRICULTURE.

of much improvement. It was an obser- vation of one of the shrewdest farmers, on these hills, — and may be generally un- derstood,— that the old down lands bear drought, much better, than new ley grounds: a good reason for letting them remain, and endeavoring to improve them, in their pre- sent state. Nevertheless, some of the deeper lands may be best adapted to arable crops.

THE

EASTERN DIVISION

OF THE

CHALK HILLS.

THE SITUATION of this extensive range of heights may be gathered, from what has been conveyed, in defining the districts which lie adjacent; the line of hills, under view, stretching through the central parts of Surrey and Kent.

The EXTEXT, from west to east, is near a hundred miles : reaching from the heaths of Surrey, to the South Foreland, between Deal and Dover. The width is irregular: but, considering the length, the variations are small. It is, in no part, I ap- prehend, (except near the eastern extremity) more than six miles (even including the faces of the southern cliffs, and the chalkv loams that form its northern outskirts), nor less than four. Five miles mav be considered as the full average width: and its superficies

vol. II. C c

386 DISTRICT.

may be estimated, with sufficient accuracy, for the purpose here intended, at five hun- dred square miles.

In ELEVATION, the hills of Surrey and Kent resemble other chalk hills. Their height, from end to end, is similar ; though not uniformly the same. The eastern ex- tremity is high land ; as appears in the cliffs of Dover. The hills of tfest Kent, however, are probably o( much greater ele- vation. From the top of Maamscot hill, to Sevenoaks, the descent is great ; and, from thence to Tunbridge, the fall is not mu h less : beside the descent from Tun- bridge to the Nore. *

SURFACE. The eastern, as the south- ern Division, is broken into compartments, by rivered vallies. First, by the Wey and its valley, at Guilford : next, by the val- ley of the Mole, between Dorking, and Leatherhead : again, by that of the Darnt, at Farningham (between Sevenoaks and Dartlord) : next, by that of the Med way.

* " Knockholt Beeches,'' which grow on xh\> part of the Kentish hills, are an evidence ot its supe- rior elevation. For, although they stand in a deep chalk pit, showing only their tops above the surtace ot the hill, they are seen at an extraordinary distance, on every side. A telegraph erected near them, might commu- nicate with a great part ot Kent and Surrey ; and with parts ot Sussex, Essex, Middlesex, Hertfordshire ; and, perhaps, with the hills of Buckinghamshire and Ox- fordshire.

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 387

between Maidstone and Rochester ; and lastly, bv that of the Stower, between Ash- ford and Canterbury

These several compartments vary, some- what, in surface. The prevailing cist is that of a single ridge ; with a steep face, to the south ; the north side shelving, gently, towards the Thames ; and pretty uniformly, throughout.

The southern cliffs are less regular : in some parts, thev are mere precipices. In others thev are covered with soil, or break into culturable stages. In the most eastern compartment, the chalk unites, in a loose irregular manner, with a line of ragstone heights; and, in the more western, with sand hills.

But of the principal compartment of Sur- rey, eastward of the valley of the Mole, the general surface is flatter, and is broken into ridges and vallies ; which afford shelter, and render the country habitable.

The opportunities, which I have had, of obtaining INFORMATION, respecting this Division of the Chalk Hills, are nume- rous. My residence, in Surrey.* was on the border of the principal compartment, last mentioned : a quarter which is the most familiar to me. The westernmost point, too, I have viewed, on every side. The part, between the YYey and the Mole, I am less

* See Minttfs of Agriculture, in that county. C C 2

388 DISTRICT.

acquainted with : though there is scarcely any part of the hills of Surrey, or of west Kent, which I have not formerly been led over, by diversion, or in travelling.

My knowledge of the west Kent hills, however, has lately been renewed, in a less incidental manner. In October last, I crossed them (for the intended purpose of information) between Bromley and Se- venoaks ; and, in the same month, between Wrotham and Farningham.

The middle Kent hills I examined, with some attention, in repeated excursions, from Maidstone ; and have traced the outlines, on both sides, of the whole compartment, between the Medway and the Stower.

The more eastern parts, between the Stower and the sea, I have likewise viewed, in different points ; during my excursion, in east Kent, in 179,5. First, in examining the northern skirts, in the Barham quarter : next in crossing over the higher parts, be- tween Deal and Dover, and between Dover and Hithe ; and, finally, between Hithe and Canterbury: thus gaining a general and comprehensive idea of the entire range, from end to end.

The CLIMATURE of these hills varies, with the elevation and turn of surface. In 1795, the harvest, on the exposed heights, between Deal and Hithe, was near a fort- night behind that of the Isle of Thanet : arid the high single ridge, of the central

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 3S9

parts of Kent, is later than the more de- pressed, broken, and better sheltered lands of Surrey ; the warmer parts of which are something, but not much, behind the vale lands that border them.

The surface WATERS, collected by these hills, are few. The rivers, which dis- sect them, are chiefly drawn from the ex- tensive vale lands, to the south of them. The only constant stream, I believe, which is collected from the hills, is that which rises in the easternmost compartment (chiefly perhaps in the vallies of the ragstone heights) and winds down the charming val- ley of Bishop's Bourn ; joining the Stower, below Canterburv.

But, in different parts of them, periodical springs, or " bourns/' rise at particular seasons. That which issues from the deeper vallies of the hills of Surrey, and enters the head of the river Wandle, at Croydon, some- times takes the character of a brook, of con- siderable size ; more particularly, when the preceding season has been rainy.

Beside the periodical springs, which rise within the areas of the hills, there are con- tinual discharges, at their outskirts, on either side. Those, at the feet of the southern steeps, are in general small ; emitting little more, perhaps, than the rain waters, which the steeps themselves absorb : while those on the opposite side are copious ; as being

39© DI>TRICT.

fed; probably, by the principal absorption of the hills; whose base and retaining strata, as well as their surfaces, doubtless, incline the same way. Westward of Croydon, par- ticularly at Carsbalton, a river of water is continually risi

Remakk. The natural history of ch; hills, particularly what relates to the waters they absorb, and discharge, whether perio- dically or continually, is a fit subject for philosophical inquiry. One law appears to govern the whole: and this, perhaps, would not be found difficult to explain. It is not merely a subject of curiosity, or abstract science; but is connected with agriculture. The waters of chalk hills are of a singularly fertilizing nature; and the manner in which are absorbed, filtrated, impregnated with the ca^areous principle, collected, and discharged, cannot be deemed uninteresting to the stud rural knowledge. If, by

any discovery of science, they can be brought more under command, or rendered more ge- nerally applicable, than they arc at present, Hie research may become highly beneficial. It may be observed, here, that, in dif-

nt parts of these hills, there arc wells of three hundred feet in depth, and passing through one continuous mass of chalk. But no

. that has come to my knowledge, exceeds that depth, even though sunk from the sur- face of the higher swells. This is an evidence,

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 391

of some authority, that the mass or stratum of chalk, of which these hills are formed, does not much exceed that depth: an evidence that is corroborated, by the thickness or height of chalk, which shows itself, in the faces o( different cliffs ; so far, at least, as the eye can judge. By the assistance of in- struments, the exact thickness of chalk, of different hills, in this Island, might be ascer- tained.

Judging from the remarkable uniformity jn their several heights, as they appear in the face of the country, it is probable, they have had the same orig'in, — are fragments of the same stratum, or extended mass, of cal- careous matter ; which, there is much rea- son to believe, is of submarine origin, — is composed of animal substances, deposited, or otherwise accumulated, at the base of some great ocean, — an Atlantic of a former world, or past arrangement of the earth's surface. Such, at least, appears to have been the opinion of the great naturalist (Linneus): and extravagant as the idea seems; when it first strikes the mind, it be- comes more and more reconcileable to rea- son, the more it is examined.

The SOILS of the range of hills, now under view, differ much, in the aggregate, from those of the other Divisions. The tops of the higher swells, instead of having a thin chalky loam, or a thinner coat of black ve-

DISTRICT.

getable mold, are generally covered with a tenacious clayey loam, of a dark brown color, and extraordinary strength ; and, in some places, of great depth ; as three or four feet: being generally mixed with Mints; especially, perhaps, near the surface ; which, after harrowing, will in some instances, ap- pear covered with them.

This may be considered as the prevailing soil of the upper parts of the hills ; espe- cially, where the surface is flat: while, on sloping surfaces, the soil is generally a thin, pale -colored, chalky loam ; and, on the lower skirts of the hills, a deeper loam, of a somewhat similar nature, prevails. Be- tween Croydon and Epsom, there are some thousand acres of this desireable soil ; — deep, rich, friable, calcareous loam.

On the contrary, the opposite cliffs are, in many parts, destitute of soil ; except where the face of the hill has slid down, and carried with it the soil of the summit ; lodging it, on stages, or with steeply slop- ing surfaces, on which the turn wrest plow. gains an instable footing : and for these, possibly, it was invented.*

* The turnwrest plow is used on surface bo extremely steep, that, on being overturned! the plow, horses, and perhaps the plowman, have been known to roll down, from the top to the bottom of the hill.

But, surely, sites of such a degree of steepness are

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 393

The SUBSOILS likewise vary. On the upper parts of the hills, a red or chocolate- colored earth, which is of a clayey nature, and which dries to a sort of rubble, is com- monly seen incumbent on the chalk ; form- ing the base of the cultivated mold. In other places, a chalky rubble intervenes, between the soil and the chalk rock ; which however, in other instances, rises to the cul- tivated soil ; even where this is of inferior thickness.

ROADS. The more public roads are in general good. Materials of the first quality (flints and chalk) being everywhere in plenty. But the village roads, since I first knew these Hills, were mere waggon tracks, through woods, narrow lanes, and hollow ways; with few places, in which even two carts could pass each other : and this was formerly the case, in many parts of the Island.

Remarks. Hence, the probable origin of " bell teams." A constant alarm was necessary, to apprize the respective drivers of each other's approach : and no one was less likely to be neglected, than that which was given by the mere motion of the team. But to continue to load horses with bells, on wide open roads, and in open daylight,

fitter subjects for planting, than for the plow. The clays are well adapted to the oak, thi chalky loams to flic bt

DISTRICT.

is perfect' v ridiculous ; and, on public roads, may well be deemed a nuisance.

TOWNSHIPS. Where the hill fends form a single ridge, as in many parts of Kent, thev are chiefly divided, between the lines of parishes, which run on either side em. But, in the more habitable parts, as in the Banstead quarter ot Surrey, the hills, or chalk lands, are themselves laid out into townships: a mode of distribution which reaches into the western parts of the Kent hills. Also, towards the eastern extremity, where the chalk lands are broad, and the surface somewhat broken, a similar distri- bution prevails.

STATE OF IXCLOSURE. In this re- spect, the eastern differs* much, from the other Divisions. The greater part of the hills, under view, are inclosed. There is nevertheless, much orr.s down: especi- ally on the sides, and lower parts of the ; w here the soil is of a loamy, chalky nature ; w hat may be properly called the true chalk-down soil : and this, it may be said, is every w here kept in an open state ! while the parts, which are covered with strong clayey soil, are chiefly inclosed : — not only on these hills, but in the north of Hampshire, in the Western Division.

Remark. How is this prevailing dis- tinction, with respect to the present state of inclosure, on soils of different descriptions,

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 395

to be accounted for ? Sheep are kept, in- discriminately, on both: and the plow is equally employed on each. See the Isle 01 Thanet, — the Hills of Wiltshire, &c.

In PRESENT PRODUCTIONS, this Division differs from the other two, chiefly, in its growing a much greater proportion of wood. A considerable share of the clayey lands, high-lying as they are, and resting on chalk, an absorbent base, are too wet, cold, and ungenial, for arable crops! being chiefly in a state of wood. On the Boxley and Detling hills, in the central part of Kent, there are tracts of woodland of very great extent : such as the Wilds of Kent and Sus- sex cannot equal. And even on the more habitable parts of WTest Kent and Surrey, woodlands prevail.

Nevertheless, much of the strong land, everywhere, is kept under arable crops: as are most of the chalky lands: with, how- ever, a small portion of perennial sheep walk. But this, I believe, is on the de- cline.

In the vallies, and about farm houses and villages, on the strong cool soils, there are old grass lands; but not in any great proportion. And, in Kent, hops are more or less grown, on the hill lands.

On a high broad summit of the Surrey hills, there is a tract of heathland ; greater

?96 DISTRICT.

in extent, perhaps, than that of all the chalk hills of the kingdom united.

The APPEARANCE of a country, di- versified in surface, and amply wooded, as are the hills under view, cannot fail to in- terest : especially, where the vallies are cleared, and the hills remain capped with woods, which bend over their brows, and fall with irregular outlines down the sides of the vallies : passages of beautiful scenery, which not unfrequently meet the eye, in crossing the more secluded parts of the hills of Surrey,

The distant views, which are com- manded from this range of hills, are various, and extensive. Those from the Boxley and Detling hills, in Kent, have been noticed. The hills of Surrey afford, among many others, one remarkable point of view; — San- derstead hill, near Croydon : from whence is commanded the upper and principal part of the wide Vale of London ; closing with the wellfeatured groundsof Windsor ; whose castle rises, boldly, and distinctly, to the eye, — though placed at near thirty miles distance.

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 397

ESTATES.

ON THIS HEAD, I have had few op- portunities of collecting information.

PROPERTY is much divided ; especially in Kent ; where the tenure of gavelkind prevails : while, in Surrey, the yeomanry, I believe, are few ; or nearly extinct.

In the FARM BUILDINGS of these hills, there is little that differences them, from those of the vale districts, on either side of them. (See District of Maid- stone, &c.) They are, still, chiefly con- structed of wood : the covering materials being thatch, or plain tiles.

On the hills of Surrey, I have observed an ingenious method of laying plain tiles, so as to give vent to the steam of a brew- house. Instead of placing them close, in the usual manner, a space of two inches was left between every two tiles : thus making the covering sufficiently open, to let out the steam ; yet close enough, (when the pitch is not too flat, nor the guage too long) to shoot off rain water.

There, too, I have seen a species of hip tiles, in an eligible form : namely, a tri- angle, with the three corners cut off, and

400 ESTATES.

climber, travellersjoy, or virginsbower matis nidlba). which is sufFered to overtop the hedgewoods, and form arbors on their heads ! Yet this, being a perennial plant, might be checked, at a trifling expence, compared with the mischiefs it is capable of doing, in a state of neglect — in this its na- tural situation and soil.

Modern hedges are of hawthorn, plant- ed in single rows, in the usual manner: and, on the deeper soils, they thrive with luxuriance ; notwithstanding the extraor- dinary treatment they are subjected to. When a hedge of this kind is cut, it is usually felled to the ground, and a full- bottomed dead-hedge set upon the stubs ! as if to prevent it, effectually, from rising again.

Remarks. This, under ordinary cir- cumstances, might be improper: but, in a country where sheepare the pasturing stock, and where thev have no other shrubs, than those of the hedges, to satisfy their natural cravings, it appears to be singularly eligible, if judiciously executed : for a sufficiency of shoots are found to make their way, up- ward, through the spray of the dead hedge- wood ; which defends them from the bite of sheep, without the expence of a double line of fencing.

Some skill, no doubt, is requisite, to form a dead hedge of this intention. Forming

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 401

the base, with long sprayey materials, so as to reach across, or between the stubs, and hang over the ditch (in this case mostly shallow) yet thin, or open enough, to suffer the shoots to rise freely through them, would seem to be the proper outline of practice.

This practice, I recollect, struck me, on my first observing it, as being most absurd, and ridiculous: yet, on due examination, it is found to be one of those simple expedi- ents, which necessity, in the infancy of arts, and long experience, in their riper years, have happily struck out.

WOODLANDS.

THE SPECIES of woodland, which pre- vails on these hills, is coppice, or under- wood, generally having a few oak timber trees scattered among it; agreeably to the practice of the southern and western coun- ties ; and, more or less, of the midland pro- vinces ; constituting what is emphatically called a wood, in distinction to grove, and coppice.

And, beside extensive woods of the above description, the hills of Surrey, more j ur-

vol. 11. D d

4*2 WOODLANDS.

ticularly, are strowed with small plots of coppice ; provincially " shaws"; which, at once, give shelter to stock, and afford a supply of hurdle and hedge materials: con- veniences, which every chalk-hill district might profit by ; yet which no other, than this under view, sufficiently possesses. See Isle of THANET,and theWiLTSHiREHiLLS, in these Volumes; also Cotswold Hills of Glocestershire ; and the Wolds of Yorkshire.

The PRODUCTS, or wares, of the larger woods, are made to vary with their situations. In Kent, hop poles are the prime object: and the age of felling, there, is twelve to eighteen years. In Sur- rey, stakes, edders, and other fencing

MATERIALS, HURDLES, HOOPS, and FAGOT

wood, are in demand ; and, there, the age of felling is seven to ten years: a plan of management, this, which extends, I believe, fifteen or twenty miles, on every side of the metropolis ; and has probably been handed down, from the time when wood was its chief article of fuel.

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 403

AGRICULTURE.

IN a tract of country, an hundred miles in length, it is scarcely possible, that a uni- formity of practice, even supposing the prac- tice of the whole to have had the same origin, should be found, after the series of centuries which these hills, probablv, have been in a state of cultivation. Yet the eve, in a cur- sory view of them, perceives little variety of management: except towards the eastern extremity ; where the Thanet, or East- Kent practice extends, more or less, over the hills : a practice which is evidently of a different growth, if not of a different root, from the present practice of the West-Kent and Surrey hills.

FARMS. The major part, of the lands of these hills, is laid out into farms of the most desireable size: namely, from one to two or three hundred pounds, a year.

In a country, where the sheepfold is the farmer's dependence, for his arable crops, and where parochial flocks are not formed, a small farm is less eligible, than one which is able to maintain a flock, large enough to employ the attention of a regular shep- herd.

Dd 2

40+ AGRICULTURE.

On these hills, however, I have not met with any instance of the over-sized farms which are observable, more or less, in even other department of Chalk Hills, m the

kUBEASTS OF DRAFT. These are, in- variably, horses of the black cart breed: four of them being the usual plo* team even on the lighter loams, where two are fully sufficient. On the deep, strong << cledgev" lands, on the Boxley hills, in Ken,, I have seen s« such horses working, with great difficulty ; owing to causes that will be explained. ,

The IMPLEMENTS in use on these hills (excepting so far as the East Kent See reached) are the more ordinary and Main ones of English husbandry. On tne fisof Surrey ana YVest :Ken«. there are ;no drag plows, as on the Western Hi Is , nor anTims, broadsbares, slrichng plnvs, o. niSgets, as in Middle and East Kent.

Kemahks. This not only shows the tor- piSe in which English agnculture has Lamed, for a century or century _pa£ (the situation, cliinature, and soil, wrth re snect to the hills of East and W est Kent, being similar, yet their present widely ■ va- rv nl practices have been established from nrJUmemorial) ; but evidences ma strik- ing manner, that the practice of East and Mull Kent is either of foreign growth,

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 405

or owes its rise to local circumstances, which do not, at present, exist. •

The practice of the Vale of Glocester, I have conceived to be of monastic rise ; * and, in comparing the methods of harvest- ing beans, in Glocestershire, and the District of Maidstone, it seemed to me probable, that they have both had the same origin. -f- And it appears to be equally probable, that other points of the Kentish practice, and the various implements that are peculiar to it, may either have been in- vented by the clergy, or the lay officers of the church, who turned their attentions to rural concerns ; or have been introduced, from time to time, by those who have been resident on the Continent ; or by foreigners residing within the metropolitan diocese.

THE turn wrest plow is common to these hills. But, in Surrey, it is confined to the hill lands ; the lower skirts, on either side, being plowed with swing, and one- wheel plows, in use on the vale lands adja- cent : while, in Kent, the turnwrest pre- vails, on every soil and surface, to within a few miles of London.

Beside the good properties, already al- lowed this extraordinary implement, an-

* See Glocestershire, Vol. I. page 196. t See Vol. I. page 130.

4o6 AGRICULTURE.

other remains to be noticed ; and which has probably introduced it, upon the hi'l lands of West Kent and Surrey. It is peculiarly adapted to the strong flinty soils, which prevail on the tops of these hills, from east to west : and, most especially, where such soils hang on steep surfaces. (See page 392.) In soils of such a nature, a winged, or a Jin share could not work, with propriety, in any state ; but, more particularly, when stif- fened by a dry season. Its singular strength, too, is well adapted to this stubborn soil.

The OUTLINE of MANAGEMENT, over the whole of this Division of Chalk Hills, is that of keeping the lands (the small portion of grass lands excepted) in grain crops and sheep food, alternately. Com and sheep being the principal objects.

The marketable crops are wheat, bar- ley, oats, some peas, and, in the eastern parts of Kent, beans, — even on the higher, thinner lands !

The consumptional products are tur- neps, tares, ley herbage, with the perennial grass, which the small portions of meadow, pasture, and sheep down afford.

The course of practice is unfixed : on the lighter lands, turneps, or tares, are the cleansing crop : on the stiffer, tares, or sum- mer fallow, for wheat, is in use : the clover crop, or other ley herbage, following either wheat or barley, according to the state of

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 407

tillage and cleanness of the lands, on which these crops are sown.

TILLAGE. The same extraordinary method of using the turnwrest plow (name- ly, that of forcing open the plow-furrow unnecessarily wide) prevails on the hills, as on the vale lands of the District of Maid- stone (see Vol. I. page 74.) On the hills of Surrey, I think it is not left quite so wide. But on the Middle-Kent hills, and in the instance mentioned under the head implements, the width was near two feet, that of the plit, or plow slice, being twelve inches, and its depth eight inches. It is no wonder, then, that, in such work, in such a soil, six horses should find full em- ployment.

Remarks. What probably adds much to the stubbornness, and gluey texture, of these strong flinty lands, is their being laid flat, with the turnwrest plow ; without ridges to shoot off, or furrows to carry away, the waters which fall on them ; even where this retentive impermeable soil is two or three feet, in depth ! If they were plowed equally deep, as they are at present, and laid up, in convex beds, of seven or eight feet in width, with deep interfurrows, and cross trenches, to take off superfluous rain water, they would not be so liable to run together, into a close compact mass, as they are, under their present treatment.

4o8 AGRICULTURE.

BEFORE 1 1 htofthe wrest

plow, it may not be amiss to mention the difficulty which attends the holding of it, by those who have been habituated to coitw mon plows, only ; and, most especially, by those who have been accustomed to the swing plow, drav the horses at

length, walking m the last-made plow- furrow ; and, of gout og an unin- terrupted sight, forward, man* It is not the intricacy, and obstruction of view, caused bv lour horses drawing dou- ble, with two sets of sphntei s, and a tali " gallows," and huge i g up before the eye, nor the t E the implement rendering it difficult to regulate, but the aukwardness experienced in turn- ing the soil to the kit, which is the chief cause fhculty.

As I have repeatedly recommended the turnwrest plow, for absorbent soils, lying on steeply sloping surfaces, it may be right to conv< ints, respecting the me-

thod of hi -ding the KENTISH plow, to those who mav \\ ish to make a trial of it, on lands of that description.

A plo .ho has been accustomed to

the s .)low, only, should tirst use it, as

common plow, with the wrest continued

•- and side; until he becomes

effect of wheels, and has

made hi \ anplement, and

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 409

the manner of regulating it. This accom- plished, let him turn the wrest to the left- hand side, and continue to use it as a left- hand plow, until he has subdued the force of habit (until he has learnt to walk with his left foot foremost, and to keep his eye on the right-hand side of the plow beam) ; which he will effect, much sooner, by these means, than he can, by beginning with it, as a turnwrest plow, and changing the wrest at every end. And horses, that have been accustomed to draw, at length, in the plow- furrow, require a similar mode of training.

MANURES. The hill farmer '$ chief de- pendence is on the sheep fold. His yard .manure, except what arises from team horses, is of an inferior quality ; being little moie than straw, trodden down by a small, inadequate portion of lean strawyard stock.

The strong " cledgey" lands are com- monly chalked : a practice which is pro- bably of ancient date ; and may account, in some sort at least, for the flints, with which they are generally mixed.

Remark. These lands, and their natu- ral alliance to chalk, with which they appear to be ordinarily connected, form a subject which is well entitled to geological inquiry.

SEMINATION. This varies with the situation. In East and Middle Kent, the " stricking plow" is in use ; even on the

4io AGRICULTURE.

strong lands : while, in West Kent and Surrey, the soil is prepared for sowing, and the seed covered, with the ordinary plow and harrows ; agreeably to the prevailing practice of the kingdom at large : there being, in the established practice of the western parts of these hills, no instance of cultivating, either corn, or even pulse, in rows. The bean and pea culture, of East and Middle Kent, may be said to be as little known, on the Hills of Surrey, as on the Wolds of Yorkshire.

In the HARVESTING of mown corn, the practice of Surrev differs, in like man- ner, from that of East Kent : each part falling in, with the practice of the vale countries, which border upon it. In Surrey, barley and oats are universallv carried, im- mediately out of swath, without being tied up in bundles, and formed into piles, or shucks, as they are, in the East Kent prac- tice ; and (which is highly interesting) as are, in Devonshire and Cornwall ; which are situated at an opposite extreme of the Island : the intermediate space, of more than a hundred miles in extent, having no knowledge of the practice.

On the culture and management of particular crops, upon these hills, little requires to be said ; as they partake of the practices already described.

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 411

The TURNEP CULTURE is, in gene- ral, well conducted : and, on the drier lands, is prevalent ; being chiefly depended on, for sheep food, in the winter season.

For spring and summer food, TARES are a prevailing crop. On the Middle-Kent hills, I have seen them used, in different ways: namely, folded off, as they stood, in the Gloclstershire manner ; mown, and given in racks, or cages, within a fold, on the land already cleared, as in the Wilt- shire practice ; and, in one instance, I ob- served them pastured off, as clover, or other cultivated herbage ; the flock going over them, a second time, when a fresh shoot was ready to receive them.

SAINFOIN is much more prevalent, on this, than on the other two divisions of the Chalk Hills of the southern counties. It is grown even on the deeper clayey lands, with success. These lands having been chalked, and perhaps contain, naturally, some portion of calcareous matter, the roots are led down, to the chalky substrata, and bring into action and use, what otherwise might, for ever, have lain dormant and unpro- fitable.

On the Hills of Surrey, its usual dura- tion is fifteen to twenty years.

Of CATTLE these hills are in a manner destitute ; excepting a few cows, kept for a supply of milk and fresh butter.

4i2 AGRICULTURE.

In breed, they agree with the vale lands, that skirt them : as, in Kent, the JVtlcb ; so in Surrey, the rdsbire, are most

prevalent : " Star: re heifers" finding

their way to this the farthest limits of the longhorned breed: the Chalk Hii.ls of Surrey, as the Heaths of Hampshire and Sussex, being a boundary, between the long and the middlehorned breeds.

The Suffolk and the Alderney breeds are also found, on these hills.

SHEEP. It has been already conveyed, in speaking of this species oi ) i, in

the other two Divisions of the Chalk H that the descriptions of fl in this

Division, are those of

WEDDERS.

The breed, formerly (as has like v. been intimated) was wholly that of the Wilt- shire and Hampshire hills. . during: the last ten years, the Sussex or Soi !> D breed have been gaining hich they are likely to hold : as being a more a!, and, of course, a more hardy, va- ; that is to say, have been less Jo? from their native, or long inherited quali- . and habits, than what may be properly d the . . ety : both of them _. probably, from the same root. See Wi Englan

The age of I .se is that of lambs ;

whose ages vary, somewhat, with the breed ;

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 413

both breeds being; bought in, about the same time ; namely, Michaelmas : when those of Wiltshire are about nine, those of Sussex about six months old.

The place of purchase, for the former, is chiefly IVcyhilU for the latter, the fair of Lewes,

The economy, or plan of management, of these wedder flocks, has been, hereto- fore, that o( folding them, two summers, and fatting them, the ensuing winter and .spring. But the South Down breed, I be- lieve, are more generally fatted, at two years old : turneps, hay, and cultivated her- bage being the usual materials of fatting.

In the shepherding of sheep, I met with little, that is rare or interesting, on this Division of the Chalk Hills.

In folding, the ordinary calculation is " three sheep to a hurdle." The hurdles of these hills (which are formed of hazel rods, in the wattle or fieak manner) are of different lengths ; as seven to nine feet : but the stakes do not stand at more than seven feet and a half, on a par : so that, on this calculation, each sheep has a space of eighteen or nineteen square feet: which is a narrow space, for large sheep ; and I have measured a fold, for two hundred six- tooth Wiltshire wedders, which was pitched twentyfour yards, by twenty: thus allowing near twenty two square feet, to each sheep.

414 AGRICULTURE.

It will be right to mention, here, as a caution to shepherds, and arable-land sheep- farmers, an alarming incident, which oc- curred to a valuable flock of sheep, some years ago, on these hills.

A field of thin chalky loam, had been sown, the preceding summer, with the seeds of weld (reseda luteola, or dversweed), and with a small portion of turnep and rape seeds, by way of giving some sheep food, the ensuing spring, and which had been eaten off, in the beginning of April (agree- ably to a practice then not uncommon on the hills of Surrey) leaving the weld to stand on for a crop, without further care.

But the soil having been made fine and full of condition, for the crop, and the seeds of the " redweed," or poppy (with which the ground was infected) being thereby set in action, so as to injure the crop of weld, — three hundred and fifty prime fatting wedders were turned upon it, to eat out the young herbage of the poppies ; which was then (the beginning of May) In a tall gross- growing state ; rising in tufts, six or eight inches high.

The shepherd, not being aware of the danger, left his flock, for a short time; and, on returning, found the whole struggling on the ground ! many of them foaming at the mouth : all of them much swoln. Be- ing a faithful shepherd, and doating on his

EASTERN CHALK HILLS. 4x5

flock, he was seized with a degree of frenzy ; and had not their owner's son* fortunately entered the field, at the juncture, the whole flock (worth near six hundred pounds) might have been lost. But, by rousing them with dogs, getting them upon their legs, and driving them to a high, airy ground (the weather being warm, and the field of accident hanging to the sun), only five of them suffered.

SWINE. The breed is mostly of the large, spotted, Hampshire, or Berkshire va- riety ; or a sub-variety of this breed, called the " tunback," from the regular curvature of the spine.

In the fatting of swine, I met with two particulars of practice, on the hills of Surrey, which are entitled to notice, here; they being new to these Registers.

In one of them salt was mixed with their food, in the proportion of a pint to every two bushels of barley meal ; under an opi- nion, that it kept them from disorders, forwarded their tatting, and added to the delicacy and flavor of the pork.

In the other, the meal or flour, whether of barley, peas, or other grain, was given to them, dry ; — and this in the practice of one of the largest and best farmers, on these

* Mr. William Ash by of Woodmanston, in the Banstead quarter of the Hills of Surrey.

AGRICULTURE.

hills ; — under a conviction, resulting from experience, that the practice is less waste- ful, than the ordinary one of mixing water with the flour, and forming them into grout; which, in winter, is liable to be frozen, and, in summer, to be baked, to the sides of the troughs.

POULTRY. The Hills of Surrey have long possessed a breed or variety of fowls, which are, there, called the " five-clawed breed," and are generally known, as Do? k- ing fowls. They are of a large size, of a white or yellowish color, and are distin- .ed from most or all other breeds, by a double claw, behind. They are fatted very highly and are sold at extraordinary prices; being, there, a profitable article of farm- yard produce.

END OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

INDEX

TO THE

TWO VOLUMES.

AGRICULTURE, District of Maidstone, i. 50.

- ft. of Tnan.ii. 8.

, Weald of Sus- sex, ii. 132.

-, District of Pet-

worth, ii. 170.

-, Sea Coast of

Sussex, ii. 232.

-, Western Chalk

Hilte, ii. 318.

-, Southern Chalk

Hills, ii. 366.

-*— — , Eastern Chalk

Hills, ii. 403.

Analysis of Corkstone, i. 12.

- Ragstone, i. 15.

-i Hassock, i. 16.

■ Boxley Chalk, i.

88. N.

1 Subjects of Sci- ence, remarks on, i. 172. Marls of the Dis-

trict of Petw. ii. 176. N. ■Duncton Chalks,

ii. 183. N.

Sussex Marble,

ii. 184.. N.

—Houghton Chalks

ii. 360. ii. 361. N.

Analysis of Marl of Deans

Wood, ii. 363. N. Marl of Sea Coast

ii. 363. N. Aphis, as a Cause of Blights,

i. 403. Apple Shrubs, District of

Petworth, ii. 192. Apples, Dist. of Maid. i. 305. Association of Objects, Note

on, ii. 253.

B

BANK of Romn Mar. i. 368.

Barking the O ik, Weald of Sussex, ii. 126.

Barley, District of Maid, stone, i. 123.

, Isle of Thanet, ii.27.

Barns, Dist. of Maidst. i. 32.

, Weald of Sussex, ii.

105.

Beach Banks, on their For- mation, ii. 225.

Beans, Dist. of Maid, i.126. , Isle of Thanet, ii. 29.

Beasts or Draft, District of Maidstone, i. 56.

, Weald of

Maam" Soils,

Kent, i. 347.

ii. 362. N. VOL. II.

Marl Flower,"

net, ii. 10.

., Isle of Tha-

Sussex, ii. 134.

Weald of

INDEX.

Drying Housr, District of

Canterbury, i. 409. Duncton Chalk Quarries, ii.

561. Dung.on tbeQualiries or.

EASTERNChalk Hills, ii. ;

Embankment of Rc.r

Marsh, i. 36-. Enem:es of young Hops, i.

198. — grown Hops, in

the Spring, i. 225.

Hops in Summer,

i. 228.

Hop?, D:

of Canterbury, i. am : Estates, Dist. of Mad. i. 25.

, Weald of Sus. ii.104. . Eastern Chalk Hills,

ii. j Experimenting ; Instance of

its Utility, ii. 236.

FALLOWING, general Re- marks on, i. - .

Fallows, Isle of Tha. ii. 13.

-, Weak: of 5 issex, ii.

141.

Farms, D : t. of Maid. L 51.

, Weald o;

' -

I J*.

-, Isle of Thanet, ii. 8. •, Weald of Sussex, ii.

, Dst. of Perw. i

. Sea Coast of Sussex,

Farms, I. of Wight, ii. 2-4.. , -Ik Hills,

• >outh Chalk I

ii. y-

, £.C

-, Remarks on the Size

of, ii. : - .- Farsh am Valley of. _ Pr_ tral

Remarks on. E - - Fen Sheep, Note on, i. 380. Fence:. D >-. of Ma'.c. i. 34. • ••" .: C ilk Hills,

»• ! — ,f

Filberts, District of K.

stone, L 306. Fish, Heaths of Surrey, , Flax Seed, on grinding, for

Cattle, &c. i. Fold ot Wiltshire, i:. 349. ■ Surrey, ii. 4 Folding, Isle of Than. ii. 36. ,S.Ch. H 377.

Us, Dist. of y..

Fowls, Dc 4 16.

: Ladders 314.

FuUersear. stone, i. 18.

, Dis'.rict of Perworth, ii. Furze, Method of Cultivating in Sussex, ii. 143. N.

GATES, Weald of Sac

Gavelkind Tenure

i 26. , its good Efl

instanced, i. £4.

INDEX.

Gazle Wine, Method of mak- ing, i. 318. Geological map suggested,

u. 358.

■ — Remarks on the formation of Romn. Mar. i. 361.

■ on the

Sea Coast of Sussex, ii. 222. on the

Outlets of Rivers, ii, 356.

on the

Origin of Ch. Hills, ii. 39 1 .

Grafting, Remarks on, i. 310.

Grass Pork, instance of, ii. 205. N.

Gravel Banks, on their For- mation, ii. 225.

Grynes, Sea Coast of Sussex, ii. 226.

Gunpowder Wood, ii. 129.

H

HARBLEDOWN, Valley of

of, i. 398. Harvesting, Dist. of Maid.

i. 97. * , Isle of Thanet,

ii. 24.

— , East Ch. Hills, with Remarks, ii. 410.

Hassock of Kent, i. 16.

Hay Barns, Weald of Sus- sex, ii. 105.

Stack Cover, described,

i. 166.

Heaths of Surrey, &c. ii. 81.

Heaths of Sussex and Kent, ii. 93. N.

Hedge Border', Remarks on, ii. 101.

Hedges, District of Maid- stone, i. 35.

-, Weald of Sussex, ii.

106.

399-

-, East Chalk Hills, ii.

Hip files of Surrey describ- ed, ii. 397.

Hoes, Valley of Farn. ii. 67.

Hogs, on feeding them in Orchards, i. 312. N.

Hoop Rods, ii. 129.

Hop Culture, improvements of, suggested, i. 292.

Hopkiln, District of Maid- stone, i. 261.

, District of Can- terbury, i. 410.

-, Valley of Farn-

ham, ii. 74

Hops, Dist. of Maid. i. 170.

, Dist. of Cant. i. 397.

, Valley of Farn. ii. 5 1.

, Dist. of Petw. ii. 191.

Hornbeam of Kent, i. 41. N.

Horse Rake of Kent, i. 105.

Horses, Dist. of Maid, i. 320.

— — — , 1. of Thanet, ii. 34.

, Dist. of Pet. ii. 193.

Houghton Quarries, ii. 360.

House-Lamb Farming. Re- marks on, ii. 202.

IMPLEMENTS, District of Maidstone, i. 58.

, on a public

repository of, i. 66. , Isle of Thanet,

ix, 10.

INDL\. Implement*, Weald of Sus- Improvement ?et*.

-, x Pet-: . - -ning

i -2 Lea:e-. | reposed

.. ii. 234 -4,

vlsle c:

-. Westei

rest t . haft

-

_ 4 "-'. S

Imp: the Bean

Culture prop 1 : . < . : y planting

in r.

Seed Clover, i. 149. ii. _-.: N. , byi sh ,

.I.156. -.. by char: - :wns, Re-

Hop Poles . ; : -

of the Hop Cu'.- Ir _>sexj

ture. ;

-- ir. pTbaiit,Ei.

Miid. coi 1 : . St.sey, Note on, ii.

or R :

N .

dot

Kent proposed, i. j R K

Thaner, KENT K. Re-

marks on its Origin, ii. -.1" 5ur-

;lt Beech . N.

:5:

Rubb: L

-nporary LAM J S,

tworth, Pe;

ii. 1S9. ; .

INDEX.

Larch recommended for the

Heaths of Surrey, &c. ii.

88. Leases, from three Years to

three Years, proposed, ii.

213. Lime Furnace, Remarks on,

»• 327- Limekihi of West Sussex, n.

I79- Limes, on Chalk and Stone,

i. n. N.

:, District of Maid- stone, i. 89.

— , Weald of Kent, i.

5-P-

■ , Opinions on those of Chalk and Stone, in the Weald of Kent. i. 349.

-, on burning, with

M

MA AM Soil of the District of Perworth, ii. 168.

, General R-e~ marks on, ii. 361.

Maidstone, District of, i. it

Manures, District of Maid- stone, i. 85.

, I. of Thanet.ii. 14.

, Val.ofFarn. ii. 55.

, Weald of Sussex.

ii. 142.

, District of Pet- worth, ii. 175.

, Sea Coast of Sus-

Wood and Coal, Weald of Sussex, ii. 143.

, the Method of burn-

ii g, with Fagots, ii. 179. Lining, a superior Method

of, i. 90. ;, Weald of Sussex, ii*

"44- . _

Linseed, on grinding, tor

Cattle, &c. i. 323.

Linshets, Remarks on, ii.

301. List of Rates, Dist. of Maid.

*• 331- Loading Corn,Methods of, i.

107.

Hops, Sec. Remarks

on, i. 283.

Long Grass Meads, ii. 338.

Lucern, Culture of, Dist. of Maid. i. 152.

-, Remarks on its na- tural Soil, i. 154.

, 1. of Thanet, ii. 33.

sex, ii. 235. ., West Chalk Hills,

ii. 327.

, East Chalk Hills,

ii. 409. Markets, District of Maid- stone, i. 114. , West Chalk Hills,

ii. 323. Marl, a valuable discovery

of, ii. 236. Meadows, watered, West Ch.

Hills, ii. 331. Measuring Strap, forTimber

described, ii. 123. Mildew, Remarks on, i. 431. Mills for grinding Chalk,

proposed, ii. 176. , Tide, Remarks on, ii.

228. Mould of Hops, Remarks on,

i. 233. Mound Hedges recommend- ed, for Koran. Mar. i. 386. Mules of varieties, Remarks

on, ii. 282.

INDEX.

N NIDGET, i. 63.

o

OAK, on the natural cl'ma-

ture of, i. 216. N. , Seedlings, Remarks

on, ii. 1 19. N. Ocst House, i. 260. Oats, Dist. or Muid. i. 125. *— — , Isle of Thanet, ii. 2^. Objects, Dist. or Maid, i 67.

— , J. or Thanet, ii. 10.

, Weald cf Sussex, ii.

139. — — — , Disr. of Per. ii. 173. , Sea Coast of Sussex,

ii. 234.

, J. of Wight, ii 2->8-.

, West Chalk Hills,

ii. 324.

-, South Chalk Hills,

ii. 368.

-, East Ch. Hills, ii.

406.

Occupiers, District of Maid- stone, i. 53.

, Weald of Sussex,

ii. 133.

■ -, District of Pet- worrt., ii. 171.

, Sea Coast of Sus-

sex, ii. 233

Ochre, District of Petworth, ii. 176. N.

Oil Cake, a Material of fat- ting S:.eep, i. 327.

Oil Mill examined, i. 323.

Orchards, District of Maid- stone, i. 303.

. District of Pet- worth, ii. 192.

Orchwton Meadow?, ii. 338.

Ox Muzzles, Remarks on, i. 347. and ii. 136.

Ox Paths, Remarks on form- ing, with broad w-heels, ii. 136.

PEARS, District of Maid- stone, i. 305.

Peas, Dist. ot Maid, i, 133. , various Methods of Harvesting mentioned, t

»34-

r— , Isle of Thanet, ii. 29. Pebbles of Sand Hills, Re-

maiks on, ii. 167. Pedestals, on forming, i. 33. P£tworth, District of,

ii. 164. Picking Hops, District of

Ma'dstone, i. 240 , District of

L 1 lerburv, i. 407.

Valley of

Farnham, ii. 67.

Plain Tiles, a Method of lay- ing, ii. 397.

Plan of Husbandry, District of Maidstone, i. 67.

, Isle of

Thanet, ii. II.

, Weald

of Sussex, ii. 139.

. District

ot Petwonh, ii. 173.

-, Sea Co,

of Sussex, n. 234. Cha.k Hills, ii. 323. Chalk Hills, ii. 3(Sfl.

West

South

INDEX.

Plan of Husbandry, East Ch.

Hills, ii. 406. Planting Coppices, District

of Maidstone, i. 43. Hops, Dist. of Maid.

1. 191.

District of "• 36o

QUARRIES of Duncton, ii. 361.

of Houghton,

Canterbury, i. 399.

Val. of Farn>

ham, ii. 5 1. Planting Orchards, i. 308. Plow Sledge, a simple one

described, ii. 137. Poles of Hops, District of

Maidstone, i. 210.

, Dist. of Cant. i. 400.

— — , Val. of Farnh. ii. 56. Por.d of the Surrey Hills, de- scribed, ii. 598. Poppies dangerous to Sheep,

ii. 414. Pork, from Grass, instance

of, ii. 205. X. Potatoes, Remarks on their

natural Habits, i. 142. Poultry, East Chalk Hills,

ii. 416. Prospects, Remarks on., ii.

272. Prun.ng Timber Trees, in

the Weald of Sussex, ii.

116. Public Establishment,

its use, as to Implements,

i. 66. Pub lic Semi names, their

use, as to operations, i. 77. , a further

instance, 1 102.

another

advantage, ii. 116.

R

RABBITS in a State of Nature, in the Southern Counties, ii. 207.

Radish Seed, ii. 31.

Ragstone of Kent, i. 14.

Rats, a Method of Taking, i. 1 10.

< , on destroying byMeans

of a Count)' Rate, i. 113.

Rearing Calves, the Sussex Met. od of, ii. 197.

Remarks on River and Ca- nal Navigations, i. 21.

on Coppice Planta- tions, i. 44.

i , general, on planting

Coppice Woods, i. 49.

on a Public Re-

pository of Imple- ments, i 65.

on public Semi-

naries, i. 76.

on a Piural:ty of

Implements, i. 79

1 on Fallowing, i. 82. on forming Com-

post, i. 87.

on Liming, i. go.

on destroying Sod

worms, by Fallowing, j,

95-

on destroying Rats,

by a County Rate, 1. 113.

IXDEX.

Remarks on C Mar-

kets, for fatJCattle. i. 115.

■ 0-1 the- Q

:-d Beat:s.i. 128

■ — 'j>eans

in Ker.t, and- {ikn .. i. 130. < on the Nature and

Hab : - Potato;, i.

en Harvesting Seed

0 the Per-

C 3-er, as an . 15 i • on. the natural Soil

ci Lv:i;rn, i. 154.

en sowing c

with 6-iu.fo'n, i. 156. on the Habits of

Sainfoin, on different Soils. L 159.

on Cul'.vatlng Sain- foin, on non-cakareous Lands, i. 1 on thr cold Soils of

the District of Maidstone^ i. 164.

en analvzirg Sub-

: -; en t':ic Yant;

Hops, i. 1 1 :

0:1 i-r.ar.u ring Hops,

1. 205

on charring ti.

of Hop Poles i 2i". on bran cuing- Hops.

1. 124.

on shove'ui:^ the Intervals of Hops, . en the Mould of

Ho; s, i : on the Season cf

z Hops, i. 237.

Remarks on the Hop Har- vest, i. 258.

, general, on Hops,

a Species of Farm Pro- duce, i. 288.

or. Grafting, i. 310.

general, on the Hus-

bandry of the District of en O.x BTuzzl

on the Formation of inds, i. 359. -, geological, on the

- . tionorRomn. Mar. i 3S1.

on the Herb:. :

Roinney Marsh, i.

on the Aphis ot the

Hop, i. 4.- 1. on the Causes of

Blights, i. 404.

on forcing Hops, i.

406.

on Straw, as a Co- vering of Buildings, h. 9. general, on the

Drill Husbandry, ii. 16.

on taking Tithes

i:i Kind, ii.

on en ; Chil-

dren in sheafing Corn, ii. on sodburning Sain-

foin Ley. ii. 33.

on the Origin of the

Kent Sheep, ii. 36.

on the Hop Cult, of

:. ana Farnh. ii. 55. on branching Hops,

ii. 60.

on the spare Vines

of Hops, ii. 63.

INDEX.

Remarks, general, on the Farnham Hop Culture, ii.

. on covering infer- tile Land?, with Water, ii. 87.

• on the Accumula-

tion or Soils, ii. 90.

on the Coppice Bor- ders of Sussex, ii. 10 1.

on Wood Clubs, ii.

114.

on pruning

Tim-

ber Trees, ii. 1 17.

general, on the Sus-

sex Management of Wood- lands, ii. 1 18.

on "Seedling" Oaks,

ii. 119. X.

■ on taking downTim-

ber Trees, ii. 125.

on the Vegetation of

fallen Coppice Woods, ii. 129. N.

on the jDisppiaj of

Woodland Produce, ii. 131 on forming Ox Paths

wi:h broad Wheels, ii. 136. on the Plow Sic

Sussex, as a simple koau- maker, ii. 138.

on Wood and Co_.l

burnt Limes, Weald of Sussex, ii. 143.

on the large Pebbles

of the Sands or Sussex, ii. 167.

on Treading the Soil

with the Plow Team, ii.

»75-

on grinding Chalk,

ii. 176.

on temporary Leys,

Dist. of Petw. ii. 189.

Remarks on the Field and House-Lamb Husbandry, ii. 202.

■■ on Swine, as a Spe-

cies of pasture Stock, ii. 205.

geological, on the

Sea Coast of Suss. ii. 222. on the Formation of

Beach Bu..iks, ii. 225.

on Tide and River

M41s, ii. 229.

on the Utility of Sci-

ence, in Agriculture, ii.

237-

on Swine, as a Spe-

cies of Pasture Stock, ii. 242.

oa Couchgrass, as a

Weed of arable Land, ii.

2+3- on Rural Scenery, ii.

on the Size of Farms,

ii. 275.

on Breeding, ii. 282.

on Surveying a Dis- trict, ii. .287. N.

on the artificial Sur-

fape 01 the Chalk Hills, ii. 301.

on inclosing Chalk- Do ,vn Lands, ii. 309.

on Beech Hedges, ii.

316.

on planting Coppice Belts, on Chalk Hills, ii. 318. on the Lime Fur-

nace, 11. 327.

on the want of Sain-

foin, on the West Chalk Hills, ii. 329. on the Origin of

INDEX.

forming Water Meadows, ii. 542. on Town Flocks, ii.

55-

geological, on the Outlets or Rivers, ii. 356. on Maarn So.ls, ii.

361.

1 on the Structure and Form irion of Chalk Hills, ii. 390. on Bell Teams, ii.

3 '3-

on Chalky Soils be- ing kept open, 1 . 394.

-- on the Hedges of the East. Ch. Hills, ii. 399.

on the Treatment of

Hedges, on the Hills of

400.

, £e eral, on csta-

blisbe-1 Practices, and the •11 requisite in mak- ing Im^rorements, ii. 401.

on present Practices,

and the Origin of that :, ii. 404. -v on the Stubbornness

of " Cledgey" Soil?. ii. 407. on holding the Turn- wrest Plow, ii. 40S.

on " Ci-fige," as al-

lied to Chalk, ii. 409.

Ripeness of Hops, Criterions of, i. 234.

River Navigations, Remarks on, i. ii.

River;, Ir stance of Improve- ment of, i. jaI. N.

Roads, Dibtr. of Maid. i. 20.

, Weald of Kent, i.

343-

Romn. Mar. i. 365. Iiltr of Than. ii. 6.

Roads, Weald of Sus. ii. 9§. ■ ' -, Sea Coast of Sussex* ii. 229.

, I. of Wight, ii. 264.

,W. Ch. Hills, ii. 308

-, E Ch. Hills, ii. 393.

Road-smoother, a simple one,

in Sussex, ii. 138. Romney Maksh, i. 356. Rye Herbage, District of

Petworth, ii. 188.

SAINFOIN, Cultureof,Dis- trict of Maidstone, i. 155.

Sainfoin, on raising fresh Varieties of, i. 156.

, on raising it with

Clover, i. 156.

•, its Habits, on dif-

ferent Soils, i. 159, &c

, Isle of Than. ii. 31.

, on uncalcareous

Sand, District of Petworth,

ii. 189.

1 , I. of Wight! ii. 280.

, West Chalk Hills, ii.

329-

-, S. Ch. Hills, ii. 381.

, E. Ch. Hills, ii. 411.

Sarderstead Hill, View from,

ii. :

Scenery, Remarks on, ii. 272.

Sea Coast of Suss. ii. 219.

Sea rt .ce, W. Suss. ii. 223.

Sea Mud, its Use as a Ma-v nure, i. 3-4. N.

Sea W^l of Romney, i. 367.

Seedling O.ks, Remarks on, ii 1 19. N.

Semination, District of Maid- stone, L9I.

INDEX.

Semination, I. of Than. ii. 15.

, East Chalk Hills,

ii. 409.

Servants, District of Maid- stone, i. 55.

, on Changing, Sea

Coast of Sussex, ii. 233. -, Isle ot'Wight,ii. 276.

Sheep, Dist. of Maid. i. 325.

, Romn. Mar. i. 378.

-, Isle of Than. ii. 35.

, Heaths of Surrey,

&c. ii. 86.

-, Weald of Sussex, ii.

146.

, District of Petworth,

ii. 199. , Sea Coast of Sussex,

11. 241. ■ , Isleof Wight, ii. 284.

-, W.Ch. Hills, ii. 349.

-, S. Ch. Hills, ii. 369.

-, E. Ch. Hills, ii. 412.

-, on their natural

Food, i. 326. N.

-, on their grazing

steep Surfaces, ii. 302. N. -, sufflated, by Poppies

n. 414. Sheep Downs, West Chalk

Hills, ii. 330. . , South Chalk

Hills, on breaking up, ii.

383. Sheepfold, West Chalk Hills,

ii. 349. , East Chalk Hills,

ii.413. Sheep Rack of Wiltshire, ii.

349- Shepherd's Crook of Sussex, ii. 380.

i. Dog of Sussex, ii. 3*0.

Shims, Isle of Thanet, ii. 10.

Shucks of Kent described, i. 103.

Size of Farms, Remarks on, ii. 275.

Sliding Yoke of Suss. ii. 138.

Sodburning, in Wood ! i. 41 .

, Sainfoin Ley,

ii. 32.

Sodworm,Dist. of Maid. i. 93.

- ■■-, an Enemy of

young Hops, i. 199.

Soils, District of Maidstone, i. 8. and i. 71. -, Weald of Kent, i. 342.

, Romn. Marsh, i. 361.

— — , Distr. of Cant. i. 398.

, Isle of Thanet, ii. 5.

, Valley of Farnh. ii. 49,

, of the Heaths of Sur- rey, &c. ii. 84.

:, Weald ot Suss. ii. 96.

-, Distr. of Petw. ii. 166.

, Sea Coast of Sussex, ii. 221.

, Isle of Wight, ii. 256.

, W. Ch. Hills, ii. 303.

, S. Ch. Hills, ii. 359.

, E. Ch. Hills, ii. 391.

— — , on their Accumula- tion, ii. 96.

South-Down Sheep describ- ed, ii. 371.

Southern Division of Chalk Hills, ii. 355.

Sparrow Traps described, i. 96.

Spayed Mare, an Instance of, ii. 193.

Spearwort, as a Name of the Rot of Sheep, i. 375. N.

Stack Guard of Kent, de- scribed, i. 166.

INDEX.

Stallion?, gratis, an Instance

of, ii. 193. State of Husbandry, District

of Maidstone, i. 328. « , Isle of

Thanet, ii. 37.

ofSussex, ii. 147.

Weald

Petworth, ii. 2cS.

-, Dist. of

-, Sea Co.

ofSussex, ii. 243.

Wight, ii. 285.

-, Isle of

., W. Ch. Hills, ii. 351.

Strap, for measuring Tim- ber, ii. 123.

Srricking,Operation of,i.i 18.

Snicking Plow, i. 63.

Stubble R.ke of Kent, i. 105.

Succession, District of Maid- stone, i. 69.

, I . of Than. ii. 12.

, Weald of Sussex,

ii. 140.

, District of Pet- worth, ii. 1 74,

-, Sea Coast of Sus-

: ;8. , West Chalk Hills,

-, East Chalk Hills ii. A Sugar Bikers' Lime, i. i:.N-

1 Colojil:

Hops, i. 266.

race, artificial, Remarks on, ii. 301. Sussex, Weal n of, ii. Q)Z. , District of Maidstone, i 324.

, Isle of Tha- , Dist. of Petw. ii. 203.

Swine, a Species of pasturing Stock, ii. 203.

, Sea Coast of Sussex, ii. 242.

, Remarks on, as a Spe- cies of Pasture Stock, ii. 242. , E. Ch. Hills, ii. 415.

TALLY of Hop Planters Dist. of Maidstone, i. 252.

, Dist. of Canrer. i. 409.

of Farnham, ii. 72.

Tares, Culture of, District of Maidstone, i. 137.

, E. Ch. Hills, ii. 411.

Thanet, Islc ot, ii. I.

Thatch, Remarks on, ii. 9.

Tide Mills, Remarks on, ii. 228.

Tillage, District of Maid- stone, i. 73.

, Isle of Than. ii. 14.

, Weald of Sus.ii. 141.

, Dist. of Petw. ii. 1-4.

, Sea Coast of Sussex,

ii. 235.

, West Chalk Hills, 11.

325-

, E.Ch. Hills, ii. 407.

Timber Trees, Remarks on taking down, ii. 125.

Tithe, Remarks on taking in Kind, ii. 24.

D Flocks of Wilts, ii. 350.

Town Herds. Wilts, ii. 351.

Training Woods, Weald of Sussex, ii. 1 13.

Turneps, District of Maid- stone, i. 139.

, Isle of Than. ii. 30.

INDEX.

Turneps, Eastern Ch. Hills, ii. 411.

Turnwrest Plow, i. 60.

■ , on its Ori-

gin and Use, ii. 392.

-, further on

its good Qualities, ii. 405. -, Remarks

on holding, ii. 408.

VALLEY of Farnham, ii.45.

Vegetation of Stubwood, Re- marks on, ii. 129. N.

Ventilation, Remarks on, i. 84.

Vermin, Dist. of Maid. i. 1 10.

Vermin Trap described, i.

Views, from Boxley Hills, i.

23-

, Isle of Thanet, ii. 7.

, Isle of Wight, ii. 268.

, Wilts Hills, ii. 311.

from the West Downs

of Sussex, ii. 364. ■ from Sanderstead Hill,

ii. 396.

w

WAGGON PATHS pro- posed, for the Weald of Sussex, ii. 155.

Walnut Trees of extraordi-k nary Size, i. 304. N.

Water Meads, West Chalk Hills, ii. 331.

Weald of Kent, i. 335. I

Weald of Sussex, ii. 92.

West. Ch. Hills, ii. 295.

Westminster Abbey built; with Kentish Stone, i. 13.

Wheat, Dist. of Maid. i. 1 16.

, Isle of Than. ii. 26.

, Dist. of Pet. ii. 187.

— , Sea Coast of Sussex,

ii. 238.

, West Chalk Hills,

ii. 328.

Wight, Isle of, ii. 248.

Wild of Kent and Sus. i. 335.

Wireworm, District of Maid- stone, i. 93.

, an Enemy of

young Hops, i. 199.

Wood Clubs, Remarks on, ii. 114.

Woodlands, Distr. of Maid- stone, i. 39.

, Weald of Kent,

346-

sex, ii. 108.

-, Weald of Sus-

West Chalk Hills, ii. 317.

-, Southern Chalk

Hills, ii. 365. , Eastern

Chalk

Hills, ii. 401. Woods, on Training, it. 113. Wool of Romney Marsh, i.

378. N. Woolen Rags, a Manure of

Hops, i. 202.

YOKE, sliding, described, ii. 138.