®Ijp S. H. Bill ffiibrarg Nortlf (llar0ltna &talF (EolUgr This book was presented by Agricultural Economics SPECIAL COLLECTIONS S455 K27 This book must not be taken from the Library building. 2SM JUNE SB FORM 2 Digitized by the Internet Arciiive in 2010 with funding from NCSU Libraries http://www.archive.org/details/ruraleconomyofw02mars RURAL ECONOMY Henr Henrv C. Ta*'^or OF THE WEST OF ENGLAND: INCLUDING MINUTES OF PRACTICE, IN THAT DEPARTMENT. By Mr. MARSHALL. THE SECOND EDITION, WITH MANY IMPROVEMENTS, AN'D CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: Printed for G. and "W. Nicol, Pall Mall; LoycMAV, Hurst, Reec, and Or ME, Paternoster Row ^ C^dcll andDAvixs, Strand; Lackinctom, Allkk, and Co. Finsbury Square; J. Hatcbard, Piccadilly; and J. Harding, St. James's Street. 1805, 8. OcaaH!, Pnnur, Liolf Qaeca FtiMt. CONTENTS OP THE SECOND VOLUME, V. VALE OP EXETER, i. General View of the District, 2. On examining its Surface, 3. On the Quantity of Rain, 5. A Detail of its Soils, 6. On hedgerow Elms, 10. A Canal proposed. An absurd Line of Road noticed, N. 12. The Manufactures of the District, 13. The Rural Economy of the Vale, 15, Management of Estates. Woodlands, 18. Agriculture, 19. VI. The dairy DISTRICT, 25. Introductory Remarks. General View of the District, 26. State of Inclosure, 33. Tradiiion respecting it. On cullivatincr Common Lands, 35. On Common Rights, here, 36. On laying out Townships, N. 39. View from Beaminster Down, x}o. Agriculture of the District detailed, 41. On the iVTarls of East Devon, 45. On the Quality of its Waters, 47. A 2 The iv Table of Contents The Dairy, and its Management, 48. On letting Dairies, 51. iMPKovEMr.NTS propospci, 57. Of its commonable Lands. Of its Hedgerows and Timber, &c. Sec. 59. VII. T\'EST SOMERSETSHIRE, &c. 67. Vale of Taunton, ^6. The QuANToc Hills, 74. Black-down Hills, 75. \\'kst Sedgemore, 7P- On the Boar or Ea^re, 81. The Gec?e of the Marshes, 84.. On the Improvement of the Sedgemores. A JouHNEY through Somersetshire, 85. Tiverton to Taunton. The Market of 1 aunton, 89. Taunton to Langport and Somerton, ^o. Remarks on travelling in Rain, 91. On breaking Road Stones, N, 92. Somerton and Environs, 96. Somerton to Shepton Mallet. Blue Marble Quarries, 97. The Valley of Glastonbury, 98. Sheet Cows, N. 100. Shepton and Environs, loi. Shepton to Frome, 102. The District of Trowbridge, 104. The Valley of Frome. Frome to Devizes, io6. The Vale of North Wiltshire, 107. Gknkral V^iew of the Line travelled, 109. Broad Cloth Manufactures, 112. 'Jax on Horses consjdered, N. 114. RETROSl'i'CTIVE VIEW of the AVEST op ENGLAND, 118. Thoughts on its Colonization. Its plculiar Practices cnumeratcfl, 1^1. OF THE Second Volume. v MINUTES IX WEST DEVONSHIRE, 127. In'Toductory Remarks.' I. On the Country between Plymouth and Buckland, 129. Approach to Buckland Abbey. a. On the Farm or Barton of Buckland, i;^i. 3. On the upper Part of the Valley of the Tamer, 133. 4. On the Skirts of the Dartmore Hills, 135. Remarks on the Names of Hundreds, 136. Remarks on the Pivmouth Brook, 137. 5. On the central Parts of the Valley of the Tamer, 138. Remark on surveying a District, 139. Observations on Tamerton Fair. On breeding Cattle, 140. On the short-horned Breed. 6. On the requisite Preliminaries of Improvement, 141. Tables of Fields', Stock, 8cc. Cautions to be used by an Improver, 143. 7. On the State of Tillage, in West Devonshire. An Improvement of its Plow, 144. On the Improvement oi Plo^vs, 145. A Principle of Conduct, on introducing Improvements, 146, 8. On the Salmon Fishery of the Tavey, 147. Salmon Weir described. Fish of the Tavey, 150. Net Fishing. A new Regulation, N. 151. Fish Poachers detected, 152. 9. On the Rains of West Devonshire, 153. 10. On inverting the Sward of Orchards, 154. 11. On Plowing with Whip Reins, 155. A Regulation on introducing the Use of Whip Reins, 156. 12. On the Treatment of Coppice Hedges. Guardine the Mounds with Brushwood, 158. On planting the Sides of the Mounds, 159. 13. On the Leat or made Brook of Plymouth, 160. Historv of this public Work, N. 162. The Dock Leat noticed, N. 163. Remarks on made Brooks, 163. 14. On the Counir\' between Buckland and Plympton, i6j. On Plvmptcn JPair. 166. On the Situation of Plvmpton. 15. Further on training Hedges, 167. " .\ 7 1 5. vi Table of Conten'ts i6. On recl.iiminff Land from Stones, 168. 17. On reclaiming Land tam V\ ecds, 169. Practical Ikniarkson Fallowing, 170. On manuring Fallows. Reinjrk> on eiijliteen Months Fallows, 171- 18. On iiitroducins the Hoing of Turneps; with practical Dirt.-ciions, 17^. 19. On the Shoeing of Oxen, 174. The Devonshire Practice, 175. Thojghtii on faciliiatin J this Operation, 176. 20. On Ohjects of Husbandry, 177. On for;i ing River Breaks, 179. On the Improvement of the Breed of Cattle, 182. On the Improvement of the Salmon Fishery. 21. On the Country round Milton Abbot, 185. 22. On the Coating of Buildings, i86» The Theory of Roughcast and Stucco Work. An Instance of Practice, 188. 23. On feeding Cattle on Charlock, 189. 24. On cutting Cabbages, 191. 25. On Societies of Agriculture, 192. Their proper Object. On Associations of landed Gentlemen, 194. The Subjects of Discussion, 195. 26. On the Monastery Barn of Buckland, 197. On the Nature of Cement, 198. 27. On the Uses of natural Rills, and the Method of conducting artificial ones, 199. A new Level constructed, 2CX5. On the proper Fall of Rills, 202. On the Uses of Reservoirs, 203. 28. On destroying Earth Worms, and On fbrming^Drinking Pools, with Walnut-tree Leaves, instead of Ljme, 204. 29. On layirtg out Farm Yards, &c. 2c6. On the Farmery of Buckland, and its Improvement, 207. On octagonal Range.< of Sheds. 30. On hangmg Doors on Stone, 208. On the Etfect of the Rust of Iron, 209. 31. Further on hanging Doors, 210. 32. On liming Land, ari. 33. Further on conduccing Rills, 212. On conducting]: a R;ll among Threes. On the Ust of Gauges, 213. OF THE Second Volume. lai 34. On laying out Roads, 215. The Use otthe Frame Level. Practical Directions. 0?i forming Koads, 218. 35. Uii the Sale of Coppice Wood, 219. Age of pLiiing. Calculations on the rental Value. On reclaiming Coppice Ground, 221. 36. Further on the Sale of Coppice Wood, 222. Conditions of Sale, 223. Calculations on the comparative Advantages of different Oflers. 37. On secaring infirm Buildings, 225. On setting up leaning Walls. On builuiag Buttresses, 227. ^8. Oa the general Economy of a Farm, with respect to Grass Lands, 231. A leading Object^ on a Sheep Farm. On mowing temporary Leys the first Year, 232. On the Value of watered Lands, On the Nitiure of Waters. On studying Sites of Improvement, 233. On watering Slopes of Hills, 234. Practical Directions in Irrigation. Practical Directions on laying out Lands to be watered, 236. 39. On plowing with two Oxen and Reins, 238. An Instance of Practice. 40. Further on the Farmery of Buckland, 239. On the El!':Tibilitv of a semi- octaoron Cattle Yard. On battering Foundation Walls. On raking the Roofs of Buildings, 240. On the Width of Cattle Sheds, 241. On erecting wooden Pillars of Sheds. On the proper Dnnensions of Cattle Stalls, 24.2. On forming a Dung Pit, and paving Cattle Sheds, 243. An Instance of Practice in watering a Farm Yard, 244. On the general Econoniv of Fdrni Yards, 246. On the Expenditure of Dung Water, or Yard Liquor. CONTINUATION of MlNUl^ES, 247. 41. On Timber for Barn-floor Planks. 4' viii Table op Contents 42. Life-leasehold Tenure, 249. Euslnejis, on its Termination, 250. A Remark on the Management of Estates, 251. 43. On ihe Blight RS. The Exe, and its fine estuart below Tijpsham, arc its chief vraters. But two principal branches of the E^e, the Culm and the Creedy, divaricating East and West, and a portion of (he Ottek, with their nu- merous branchlcts, water the interior of the Vale. At Tiverton, the Exe has barely ac^ quired the River character ; and even at Exe- ter, it ranks low among the Rivers of the Island. SOIL. This varies exceedingly, and shows the District which it covers to be formed with masses of various origins, or composi- tions. This diversity and intermixture of soils will best appear, in detail, as they fell under my observation. HoNiTON TO Exeter. The S(hI varies : much deep strong good land. Part brown ; part strongly tinged with red : — the first red soil observed, in entering the West of Eng- land, by the Bridport road. About Otter V, and in ditfcront parts of the area of the Yale, a sandy carrot soil is prevalent. E.NVIR0N5 OF Exeter. The soil round the VALE OF EXETER. 7 Town is a redish, deep loam, of an extra- ordinary quality. To the North of the Town, it varies in productiveness, with the sub- strata. Where the slate rock does not rise too near the surface, it is productive to the summit of the highest swell. On the South, between Exeter andTopsham, a rising ground, of some extent, exhibits arable land of the first quality : Wheat, Beans, and Flax, luxu- riating on some parts of it ; other portions of it being of a lighter weaker quality. Much of the red soil, in the neighbourhood of Exeter, is of a strong, argilaceous, binding quality ; and, as such, differs essentially from the ordinary soil of the more AVestern parts of the County. Environs of Nutwell*. The soil is va- rious : some strong red land ; much dark, pebbly loam, of a tolerable quality ; and much thin gravelly soil. At the feet, and hanging on the sides of the marginal heights, above Lympston and Woodbury, a cold weak wood- land soil prevails. Exeter towards Taunton. The hills, in general, arc of a sandy nature ; light turnep and * The residence of the late Sir Francis Drake, now of my Lord Heathfield. B 4 8 DISTRICT, and Barley soil. In the inters'ening passages of Vale land, a strong red loam is prevalent ; — o-ood wheat a 'id bean soil. About Brad- ninch, is a rich valley of grass land. Environs of Tiverton. The soil in ge- neral red, and much of it of a superior qua- lity : towards Maiden Down, through Hal- berton, three or four miles from Tiverton, is a passage of red-soiled rich Vale country. Crediton, and to Exeter. Round Cre- diton, as about Tiverton and Exeter, a fertile red soil prevails ; the three principal Towns of the Yale being, in this respect, alike situ- ated. I^hese rich red lands occupy the base of the Yale to within three miles of Exeter ; where a passage of pale slatey soil, similar to that which characterizes the more Western parts of the County, intervenes, between tlie red lands of Crediton and those of Exeter. SUBSOILS. The strong red soils mostly rover strata of clay, loam, or gravel, of the same or a similar color. The strong brown soils arc likewise incumbent on brick earth, or on gravel of a kindred hue. I'hc rich productive lands, round Exeter, Crediton, about Tiverton, and in other parts of the area of the Yale, have a peculiar kind of clave\- "-ravel for their bases ; which, in some VALE OF EXETER. 9 instances, hardens into a sort of pudding stone, firm enough for a building material ; and, in some places, as on the banks of the Exe, a cleaner gravel is observable. The subsoil of the plot of pale land, which oc- cupies part of the Northern environ of Exeter, is of a slatey nature ; similar to the ordinary substrata of AYest and South Devonshire: and it may be noticed, that this, — namely. Stoke Hill and its marginal skirts, — is, I have reason to believe, the most Easterly frag- ment, or detached mass, of schistous or slatey ground, in this part of the Island. The pre- vailing subsoil of the area of the Vale, espe- cially of its rising gx'ounds, is a red sand. And, in an instance between Tiverton and Maiden Down (and also near Exeter), a va- riegated substratum is seen ; composed of thin layers of red and white loam and sand ; resembling \\ hat is observable in Glocester- shire, and under the red lands of Notting- hamshire. These circumstances plainly show, that the Vale of Exeter is composed of various materials, and of course exhibits a variety of lands. General Remark. — This intermixture of lands is seen, in an interesting point of view, 4 from ro DISTRICT. from the insulated hillock, just mentioned^ in the neighbourhood of Exeter. The deep rich Vale lands are thickly set with Hedgerow Elms, pruned up to poles, and rising in close order, as we see them in the Vales of Glocestershire, and on the rich deep lands in the neighbourhood of the Me- tropolis ! Has this species of produce, and tliis pecuharity of practice, risen spontane- ously out of the nature of the lands ? or has the tree, and the method of treating it, been imported from the Continent, estabhshed on the banks of the Thames, and from thence transplanted to those of the Severn and the Exe? On the POLITICAL DIVISIONS of this District, I find few remarks : except what relate to the sizes of townships ; — which appear to be smaller than what I have ob- served in the other parts of Devonshire : a circumstantial evidence, this, among others which will be adduced, that the fertile Vale under notice was early cultivated, and there- by acquired an early population. PUBLIC WORKS. The only Inland Na- vigation, which this District at present en- joys, is that of the Estuary of the Exe, to Topsham ; with an artilicial Navigation, from VALE OF EXETER. 11 thence to Exeter. And, perhaps, the only Canal that could be prosecuted with profit, to the County at large, would be one from Exeter, by Crediton, to Okehampton, there to join the one proposed, between Biddeford ^nd Plymouth. (See p. 33;.) And even this I suggest with diffidence, from my not hav- ing sufficiently traced the ground, in detail. The Line is, in every respect, what could be wished. If this triple Canal should be exe- cuted, Devonshire might, wdth good reason on her side, boast of her acquired, as well as of her natural advantages. Possessed of such a public work, she would stand unri- valled in facility of internal transfer : there would scarcely be a farm in the County, si- tuated at more than one day's journey of a team from water carriage ;- — an accommoda- tion, whether in bringing in manures, or carrying oiFproduce, w^hich no other County, I beUeve, can claim ; and which, in a Coun- try where wheel carriages are, in some cases, difficult to use, would be an advantage to the LANDED INTZREST, scarcely to be cal- culated *. The * 1804. This great work may be said to be begun I Canals to Tavistock and to Crediton are now executing. 12 DISTRICT. Tlie Roads of the Vale are most remarkable for their closeness ; narrow lanes, confined with mounds, and overhung with trees and coppice wood. This charge, however, does not lie, invariably. The more public Roads are, in general, well formed, and, in some instances, well kept *. The State of Ixclosure is the same, here, as in the other Districts of the County. The appropriated lands arc universally in- closed: a few rough summits of hills, appa- rentlv commonable lands, remain open. This State of Inclosure is probably of long standing; and, from the smallness of the fields, observable in many parts of the Vale, espe- ciallv round Exeter and on the Eastern banks of the Estuary, it is reasonable to suppose that those parts, at least, were early inclosed. What serves to corroborate this idea, the mounds of the hedges are lower, here, than * I must not omit to notice an extraordinary instance of persevering obstinacv, in the trustees or managers of the road, from Exeter to Starcross (between Alphinglon and Exmlnsler), where the road leads over the summit of a steep knoll of considerable eminence, while its level base ofiers a shorter line ! A reason , however, has been given for this irratioual conduct j but it is loo ridiculous to be related ! VALE OF EXETER. 13 in the Ham Districts ; and are, in general, furnished with Timber Trees. The PRESENT PRODUCTIONS of the Lands of the Vale are chiefly arable crops and HERBAGE ; with a profusion of hedge- woods; and some orchard grounds; but with very httle woodland, in the area of the Vale ; not even in the more liilly parts of it. Nevertheless, the District, I understand, does not supply itself fully with grain ; at least, not with ^^heat ; which is imported, occasionally ; and chiefly, I believe, from the Isle of Wight. But the Country is populous. The Serge Manufactory employs many hands throughout the District, finally concentering at Exeter. And, on the Eastern banks of the Estuary, at least, lace- making is a prevalent female employment. Yet, of dairy produce, the Vale is enabled to send some supply to the IVIetropolis. Of the present STATE of SOCIETY, in this District, I am prepared to say but little. The TOWNS, in general, are populous, cheerful, respectably built, and well situated. The situation of Tiverton is singularly fine. The COUNTRY HABITATIONS are generally mean in their appearance, from the nature of 14 DISTRICT. the materials of which they are almost uni- versally constructed ; namely, red earth and thatch. The neatness of the latter, howeverj is such us to render this species of covering more tolerable and less improvident, here, than it is in countries where straw is beaten to pieces with the flail, and laid on with less accuracy, than is the *' reed'* of the West of England. Earthen walls, rough cast, and covered with a reed roof, form a neat and comfortable habitation. The EMPLOYMENTS of the Inhabitants are chiefly those of Iltisband??/, and the same branch of the Woolen Mamtfactiire which prevails throughout the County : SISTER EMPLOYMENTS, which ought to prevail, more or less, in almost every District of the Island. Of the FACE of this fair COUNTRY it were impossible to say too many fine things. But, as its goodly features might lose much of their force in my description, I will briefly set it down at what its own Inhabitants be- lieve and assert it to be — " the richest finest Country in the world." VALE OF EXETER. 15 THE RURAL ECONOMY OF THIS DISTRICT. MANAGEMENT of ESTATES. THIS branch of rural affairs is conducted nearly in the same manner, here, as in the more Western parts of the County. Never- theless, a few differential particulars merit notice : as, first. The distribution of FARM LANDS. There needs not better evidence of the first Laying out of Lands, in this District, being different from that of South Devonshire, than the smallness of Fields, and the intermixture of Farm Lands, observable in the Yale : at least in that part of it which I had the best opportunity of examining; namely, the East- ern banks of the Estuary ; which, in these particulars, might vie with East Norfolk ;— especially on its lower margin. Whether this intermixture of small fields has arisen from the lands having been distri- buted, i6 MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES. butcd, originally, among small hand-labor husbandmen, or from their having been once in a state of common arable fields, as in other parts of the Kingdom, and have been kept in that intermixed state, by the nature of life- leasehold, is a point which, probably, might now be difficult to ascertain. Where the lands still remain under that restraint it might be difficult to do away the evil, entirely. But, where they are free from that tenure, the impropriety of suffer- ing them to remain in so unprofitable a state, rests with the Proprietors and Managers of Estates. Of the FARM BUILDINGS of the Yale, little is required to be said. They are, in general, without plan, and meanly built : earth and straw being the chief materials. Even the farm yard fences are of " cob:" in some instances raised eight, ten, or more feet high ; with folding doors, wide enough to admit bden pack horses ; and with lean- to sheds, perhaps, on the inside : thus form- in": comfortable straw vards, at a moderate cxpence. The favorite materiid of these walls appears to be the strong red loam, mixed with gravel, which has been mentioned, and which ac- VALE OF EXETER. i^r quires, in drying, a stonelike hardness. " If kept dry, it will stand for ever." This material of building (namely, earth of various sorts, mixed wdth straw, under the genial name of cobj has been used, here, time immemorial. Barns and dwelling houses, of almost every size, are built with it. The walls from fourteen inches to two feet thick ; the flues of chimneys being carried up with the gables, as in building with stones or bricks *. And another material of rough buildings is what might be called natural cob ; namely^ the red grout or pudding stone, aforemen- tioned ; which, especially in the South- western environs of Exeter, is in pretty com- mon use. HEDGEROWS, in this respect, too, the inclosures of the rich deep lands of the Vale resemble (or lately resembled) the wood- bound Eighties of East Norfolk. The E]ms of the Hedges have been already tioticed. Oak Pollards are in great number, and, in some parts. Oak Timber Trees stand * There is one Instance, at least, in this District, of a consic'erable mansion, or villa, three stories hio-h, beins: chiefly built with this material. I understand, however^ that the attic story is mostly of wood. VOL. u, c thick IB MANAGEMENT OF ESTATES. thick on the Hedge banks, or grow out of their sides, or at their bases ; \\ ith Coppice \^'Ood rising between tliem ; as in Kent, and other Districts. This, however, is more particularly ob- ser\able, on the cooler woodland soils, on the Southeastern banks of the Vale; — which have probably been inclosed from the wood- land state. I mention this circumstance the rather, as it forms one of the distinctions, which mark this more Eastern District, from North and South Devonshire. WOODLANDS. ON this subject, nothing peculiar struck me, except what relates to the improper treatment of Timber Trees. The boughs, not of the Elm only, but of the Oak, are hacked off, for fuel ! A practice which is not confined to Hedgerow Trees. I have here seen it extended, for the first time, to Grove Timber! Oak ^^'ooDs! A practice so destructive of private pro- perty., and public benefit, can only have arisen in a scarcity of fuel, or in the rapine of tenants, and the neglect of those who VALE OF EXETER. 19 should restrain them. Indeed, I would hope that the practice is not universal ; at least with respect to Wood Timber ; but is con- fined to the estate which I more particularly examined. The practice of pruning off the side boughs of Hedgerow Ehns is a venial crime ; pro- vided it be not deferred too long from the last cutting. In the more valuable applica- tions of the Elm, knottiness of texture is a desirable quality. But in most, or all, the uses to which the Oak is applied, a clean- ness of grain is its best recommendation. AGRICULTURE. FARMS. From the sizes of Farmeries, and the appearance of Farmers, this District resembles the rest of the County, in the sizes of its Farms. BEASTS OF LABOR. In this respect, too, the A'ale of Exeter is truly Danmonian. Oxen are used in plowing ; Pack horses in carriage of every kind ; even to the gates, and within the streets of Exeter. 1 have seen, in its immediate environs, dung setting about with ** horse and potts*." In this ♦ See Vol. I. p. 125. c 2 instance, It AGRICULTL'KE. inslanre, three horses, with a man to fill and two bo}5 to drive, formed the sett. The distance fifty to a hundred yards. The dis- patch far from inconsiderable. DIPLEMEXTS. Still we find ourselves within the limits of Danmonia. The plow is more truly heraldic, here, even than in A^'est Devonshire. The body longer, and the beam shorter : the end of the beam merely shooting before the point of the share! PLAN OF MANAGEMENT. In the ARABLE CROPS of the Vale, we find a devia- tion from those of the more Western Dis- tricts : — arising, no doubt, from an alteration in the quality of the soil. On the strong cold lands, in the area of the Vale, Beans are a common crop ; and, on the richer deep soil. Flax is sometimes grown. And, perhaps, in. this part of the County, a greater proportion of Cows are kept for the butter dairy. But, in other respects, 1 have detected no obvious marks in the outlines of Management, which distinguish this from the more Western Dis- tricts of Devonshire : excepting what relates to the practice of " Burnbeating;'' which I believe is not, here, Jn use, at present. MANURE. The same roof shaped heaps of LIME coMPQSTj that are common in St^utb VALE OF EXETER. 21 Devonshire, are observable in the Yale of Exeter. The upper parts of the Yale are supphed with liime, from the borders of Somersetshire ; the central and Southern parts, with stones, by water; chiefly from Berry Head : these being burnt, on the-banks of the River or the Estuary, in the manner of West Devonshire. I have seen no traces of the sheep fold, in this or any other part of the County. WHEAT is here grown on narrow ridges, as in West Devonshire, &c. All the BEAN CROPS, that I observed, were raised in the random or broad cast manner. TURNERS. The hoing of Turneps is coming into practice, in the Yale. 1 have pbserved, in ditTerent parts of it, clean good crops. GRASS LAND. In the Management of Grass land, there is nothing striking, or re- markable. Irrigation is more or less in use, in particular situations : but not generally, nor with the uniform effect, which is expe- rienced from the slate-rock waters of the more Western parts of the County. ORCHARDS. Many small Garden Or- chards, and some of a larger size, are scat- c 3 tered. 12 AGRICULTURE. tered, in every part of the Vale. In the Environs of Tiverton, I obsers'^ed some full-, sized Orchard Grounds ; which, however, are still Danmonian. But, as the borders of Somersetshire are approached, the stems are seen to encrcase in length. CATTLE. This being a Dairy, rather than a Breeding District, a mixture of breeds may be expected. Nevertheless, in the more remote parts of the Vale, I have observed different instances of fine Cattle, of the pure North-Devonshire variety. In the neighbourhood of Exeter, many Alderney, or *• Guernsey Cows'* are seen ; being frequently imported from thence : and a mongrel sort, between those and the De- vonshire breed, are not uncommon. The dairy. The produce of the Dairy, here, as in AV^est Devonshire, is butter and SKTM-MILK CHEESE. This specicsof Farm Produce has encreased, of late years; the butter, even of this extreme part of the Island, being now sent, in greater or less quantity, to the London Market. Nevertheless, the clouting of cream still remains a prevalent practice in the Vale ; in which, however, many ** raw-cream dai- KiEs" are now established : and, as the prac- VALE OF EXETER. 23 tice of raising cream, or sufFering it to rise,- in the natural way, has gained possession of the DAIRY DISTRICT (which will presently be described), on the Eastern banks of the Yale, there will be little risque in predicting, that it will require no gTcat length of time, to, extend itself over the area. How long it will afterwards take, to climb over the Western banks, into South Devonshire, is much more ditlicult to foresee *. A^'hat farm-vard SWINE I have observed, in the Vale, are of the same tall white sort, which appears to be common to the County. SHEEP. The Esse Flocks of the Yale, are chiefly of the iiouse-lamb breed. But the more ordinary stock of the smaller Farmers are bred on the Heights about Ti- verton ; and are the same variously headed race, which is common to all the high lands of Devonshire and Cornwall ; or on the richer inclosed lands, about Bampton and Dulver- ton ; these being a larger longer-wooled, polled, grey-faced Breed ; similar to the pre- vai Hng * 1804. The scalding of milk, to raise the cream, still continues to decline in this Vale. In the same village, different dairvwomen pursue different practices ; and even in the same dairy, the season, the quantity of milk, or other circumstance, may alter the practice. C 4 U AGRICULTURE. vailing sort, about Totness, in the South Hams : all of them being, evidently, ditferent varieties of the aboriginal, ancient, or moun- tain Breed of this part of the Island. The latter variet}' is more particularly seen on the richer grazing lands, and the marshy grounds below Exeter. So commonly do soils imdte congenial stock. DISTRICT THE SIXTH. THE DAIRY DISTRICT OF WEST DORSETSHIRE, liN^TRODUCTORT REMARKS. The passage of country, to which I have given this appellative distinction, is at once ^-ATURAL and AcnicuLTURAL. Natural, as possessing a peculiarity, as well as a uniformi- ty of style, in the formation of its surface ; — agricultural, as having the same leading ob- ject, in its plan of Rural Management. Nevertheless, I was led to an examination of it, by circumstances more fortuitous, than those which attended the surveys of some of the other Districts, noticed in these Volumes. In my first journey, into the West of E^'GLAND, being struck with the appearance 26 DISTRICT. of the country about Bridport, I stopt a few days to examine it ; and went over it, some miles round, on either side : thus gaining a competent knowledge of the Eastern part of the District, and a general idea of its Rural practices. In passing, repeatedly, between Bridport and Honiton, I have had opportu- nities of seeing something of the center of the District. And, in travelling between Crewkern and Chard, and afterwards taking a deliberate ^^e\v of the Drake Estate, Iving: in the Valley of Yarcomb, I had a favor- able opportunity of examining, in detail, its more Northern parts : thus gaining a com- prehensive idea of the whole District ; ex- cepting its Southwestern or Coliton quarter*. In gi^'ing a comprehensive ^iew of this' Division of the V/est of England. I will briefly digest the particulars that struck me, in the different views ^vhich I have taken of it; and first of the DISTRICT. The situation, Ol*tli>e, and Extent of this irregular passage of country are these: * 1804. This part I have, s'mce, repeatedly travellwl through. See Minute 51. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 97 in form, it approaches the triangle nearer than any other regular figure. Its base is the sea coast, between Sidmouth and Bridport ; its Northern angle being sheathed in the Black-Down Hills. The Yale of Exeter and the Valley of the Otter form its principal boundary on the AVest (see Min. 5 1 ) ; and the Yale of Ilchester (see INIin. 58) on the East: the Beaminster Hills, and the Chall^ Downs of Dorsetshire, being its Southeastern confine. The extent of the base is some-- what more than twenty miles ; and that o£ its perpendicular line more than fifteen : its area may therefore be estimated at one hun- dred and fifty to two hundred square miles. The elevation of its higher grounds js very considerable. They rise from the sea by steep cliffs, some of them of great height; especially in the Lyme and Bridport quarter. The swells are mostly high upland ; some of them sufficiently elevated to be denominated heights. But the degree of elevation of the Valley lands, abo^e the seas, is small : the fivers, tho not tame, being by no mean§ ^•apid. The surface of this District is most strongly marked ; exhibiting the Devonian gtyle, in all its purity. Immediately ft DISTRICT. Immediately upon the coast, particularly about Bridport, the hills are many of them rotund, and fertile to their summits; but, farther from the Sea, they are mostly flat- tened on the top, and comparatiyely infertile *yith the wide \\'inding vallies that seem to worm their way in among them ; displaying the most broken and " troubled" surface. Still farther towards the Northern margin, the ground breaks into more regular ridges and vallies ; branching out, in the ordinary manner of mountain-skirt surfaces. The wider yallies that have fallen under my notice, are the Valley or Bason of Bea- minster; the Valley, or, as it is called, the Vale of JMarshwood ; the Valley of Yar- comb, and that of Upottery *. CLIMATrKE. In the lower lands of the District, even in its more Northern vallies, the seasons are early. In 1791, Haymaking was at its height, in the neighbourhood of Bridport and Beaminster, the beginning of July; and, in 17Q4, Raygrass was ready to shoot into head, in the Valley of Yarcomb, • The Valley of Yakcomb. This Valley contains parts of four parishes, Iving in three adjoining counlies ; namely, Stocklaml, in Dorsetshire; Whitsianton, in Somersetshire; and Menihury and Varcomb, in Devon- jhire : — the last comprizing the principal part of its lands. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. Ctg the first of May. I should conceive it to be, on a par of years, ten days or a fortnight before West Devonshire * WATERS. Each Branch Valley of the Northern margin has its rivulet or brook ; which, collecting, form the upper branches of the Otter, the Axe, and the Brook or River of Bridport : the Axe receiving the principal part of the waters of the District. SOILS. These vary, in different parts. In the Bridport quarter, — the lower lands are mostly of a superior quality — deep rich loams — throwing out full crops of Wheat, Beans, Flax, and Hemp ; and, in this part of the District, the sides and even the summits of the swells and hillocks are many of them well soiled ; the best a limestone loam ; others of a lighter sandy nature. But, in the Yalley of Yarcomb, and appa- rently in the neighbouring Yallies, much of the soil is a strong red loam, lying on a cool basis, — Wheat, Beans, and Oak, land. The soil of the higher hills, throughout the District, is a sandy loam, intermixed with a singular species of stone, a base kind of flint; a species of soil, and an accompani- ment, * But see Mixutk 50. 30 DISTRICT. ment, whirh are not only common to tn^ higher less fertile hills of East Devonshire, but are extended to the Halklown Heights, on the West side of the Vale of Exeter ; and which, the liints at least, are peculiar, per- haps, to this part of the Island : I have not obser\ed them in any other*. SUBSOILS. These are various, as the soils, the passage of country under nofrce resembling the \ ale of Exeter, in this respect. The cool red lands have a strong clayey loarn for their base ; the rich soils in the environs of Bridport, have either a lighter loam, or a sort of tlinty gravel, beneath them : the hills arc of sandy loam, intermixed with flints, with here and there a mass of limestone. FOSSILS. The most useful Fossil pro- duction, that fell under my notice in this District, is Limestone; which is raised, not in the neighbourhood of Bridport onl}', but more or less in other parts of it. Beside be- ing burnt into Lime, it is used as a walHng material, as w ell as for paving Slabs, Drain Briilges, and Stiles ; large Slabs of it being not untrequentl} sot on edge for this purpose. It is also used as a road material. It appears ♦ The Formation of Flints is a subject of couiidcr- able interest, in Natural History. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 31 in some specimens, as a mass of congluti- nated shells ; resembling much, in general appearance, the Sussex marble : a species of Limestone dug out of the strong lands of the AVeald of Sussex ; whereas, this is found on the dry summits of hills. lSO-1. The above description, however, belongs more particularly to the Limestone which I have observed in the neighbourhood of Bridport. The more prevalent stone of the District is of a smooth texture, mostly free from the remains of shells, and of a blue color, with a wliite crust ; resembling the " Clay Stone" of Glocestcrshire, &c. &c. and is here known by the name of " Blue Lyas." Lyme (Lyme Regis) has long been cele- brated for its Lime ; v\'hich is burnt from a stone of the last description. This stone is liable to burst in the kiln, with loud reports, and burns to a tine stone color, with a }-el- lowish cast. The Lime from this stone sets well in water, and is in other respects valuable as cement; rivaling the far-famed Lime of Abcr- thaw, in South Wales* : the latter, however, is ♦ Aeehthaw. on llic coast of Glamorganshire, ^2 DISTRICT. is allowed to be somewhat stronger ; owing probably to the white coats of the stones being worn off by the action of the waves, on the sea shore, where it is gathered. In Devonshire, it is called '* Watchet Lime ;'* the stones being brought from Wales, and burnt at Watchet, on the Northwest coast of Somersetshire. Another valuable purpose of the Lime of Lyme, which I have lately experienced, is that of an ingredient of roughcast for coat- ing buildings : no coloring being required. Nothing, but clean- wash, gravel, water, and this Lime is wanted to form the grout : the natural color of the Lime being most grate- ful to the eye. And the Limes of other stones of a similar quality, it is probable, are equally applicable to the same use. See Glocestekshire, Art. Lime. On the Eastern borders of this Distnct, several detached masses of Chalk are found. On White Down, between Crcw- kcrn and Chard, I obsen'ed a chalk pit ; and even within the parish of Yarcomb, at its Northern extremity, chalk is likewise raised ; bat in small quantities. These detached masses may be con^jidereJ as fragments of WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c» 33 the Western Chalk Hills ; and are probably the most westerly collections of this singular and valuable fossil in the Island. ROADS. The Roads, in the more recluse Vallies, are nearly in a state of Nature : the ancient Horse paths of the Forest state : crooked, narrow, numerous, and full of sloughs. STATE OF INCLOSURE. The lower grounds are wholly inclosed ; the hills, at present, are open ; but they show evident marks of their having been, heretofore, in a state of inclosure and cultivation ; discover- ing strong lines, which, on the wide Com- mons of Yarcomb and the neighbouring pa- rishes, still remain perfectly legible; and which are not yet obliterated on the higher more barren summits, in the neighbourhood of Bridport. Tradition, in this Eastern District, as well as in the West of Devonshire, speaks of these open neglected lands, as having once been inhabited. But this ingenious historian assigns different reasons, for their being abandoned to the neglect in which we now find them.. On the Western side of the County, \yc are told, it was owing to a decreased population; l)ut, on the Eastern, to a widely differing VOL. II. D circum- 34 DISTRICT. circiim:tanci'. Here, the hills wcrcjirsf in- lubited ; by rcajson ot" the Vallies being, in the early ^lage^ ot* society in thi^ Country, so full ot Wulve:i, as to be rendered uninhabit- able, by the Huuian Species. In process of lime, ho\TC"ver, the latter crept down the sides of the liilLi; clearing oti' the wood, as they descended ; until at length the Wolves w ere driven away, or destroyed ; the Vallies taken possession of; and the hills, in conse- quence, given up, for a more fertile soil, and a more genial cH mature. This marvellous tale of tradition, w hatever may have given rise to it *, seems altogctlier unnecessary, to explain the phenomenon un- der notice ; as it may be accounted for in a more simple and reasonable way ; there be- ing nothing ditfcrcnt, in the present appear- ances of these Commons, from those of the Commons of North Devonshire, that are actually, at this time, undergoing the very operations, which, in all human probability, moulded the faces of those of East Devon- ■* Tradition, when it reaches not farther than a few Ci'-Hcrations, is entitled to every respect, and is frequently govd. authority. On perilous events, as of war or pesti- lence, it is able to go much farther hack, than it is re- specting the ordinary and quiet opcratiou5 of Agriculture. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 35 shire into their present form ; and which, heretofore, left similar vestiges of inclosure and cultivation, oh the surfaces of some of the commonable lands of West Devonshire *. The most striking difference between the appearances observable on the Commons of Yarcomb, and on those of Buckland, is, that the lines on the former are much stronger ; some of the still moldering hedge mounds having no appearance of being more than a century old ; some of them are evidently of more modern date : indeed, encroachments, of a similar nature, are made at the present time. There can be little doubt, I think, of the truth of the position, that it was once the prevailing practice of Devonshire, to culti- vate ITS COMMONABLE LANDS, in a manner similar to what wc have seen practised, not only on public Commons, but in private In- closures, at this time f. It is reasonable to suppose, that, in early times, the Ashes of the sward or coarser co- vering, were depended on, as manure : and that, afterwards. Lime was used, as an ad- ditional * See Vol. I. p. 31, and p. 345, t See Vol. I. p. 347. I> 2 36 DISTRICT. ditional stimulus. And it may be allov^'able to conjecture, that, tlirough the means of these two powerful stimulants, — without re- turning any part of the produce, thus ex- tracted, to the soil, — it at length became so much exhausted, as no longer to repay the .expcncc of cultivation. What corroborates this idea is, that the only part in which T have observed the practice continued, to the present day, is that in which Lime is most ditticult to procure ; and where it may not yet have been obtauied in sufficient quan- tity, to lower the lands to tlie last stage of exhaustion. Having proceeded thus far, I must men- tion, here (tho somewhat out of place), a circumstance relating to the Common rights of East Devonshire : I speak more particu- larly of the Manor of Yarcomb ; whose Com- mons belong exclusively to the Lord of the soil, and arc stocked (without stint) by his own tenants, only, 'i'hc ** lands," as they are emphatically called, of othei* Freeholdcrs,- w ithin the manor, have no right of Com- monage ! A custom of manors which may have eluded my researches in other parts of the County. Should it be said, that this circumstance WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 37 favors the story of the Wolves, for that these upper lands were private property of their respective Lords, and were thrown up for the use of their own tenants only, I will not gainsay it. I have, perhaps, already done more than my duty ; and I leave it to the Antiquary, whose bent leads him to topogra- phical enquiries, to determine the point. Therefore, returning to what more imme- diately relates to the subject matter of this Register, I will finally observe, that, what- ever mav have been the circumstances which led to the inclosure of the Vallies under no- tice, they were made from the unreclaimed forest state; without the intervention of common fields * or stinted pastures ; judg- ing, I mean, from their present appearances ; which resemble those of the Inclosures of Kent, Herefordshire, and other Districts ; which have been, undoubtedly, inclosed from a state of unreclaimed woodland. The hedge- rows are crooked, and furnished with tim- ber ; and the banks raised, in 'imitation of those * It is to be obsen'ed, however, that, to the East of, Br'ulport, I saw some faint traces of common arable fields r" but in the area or the Western parts of the District, I observed uo appearances of that sort, D 3 3|r DISTRICT. those of Devonshire ; but are much lower than the altogether artijichd mounds of the more Western part of the County. The present PRODUCtIoNS of the Soils of this District arc wood (chietly of Hedgerows, not much detached A\"ood- land), ARABLE CROPS, FRUIT TREES, and Herb- age ; the last being the most prevalent pro- duce of the inclosed lands. The Hills are overgrown with dwarf furze, heath, and COARSE herbage ; a few of the more barren parts oi them being occupied chictly by heath. The T0\\'NS of this District are Brid- port on the East, Axmix^ter near the cen- ter, HoxiTON on the West, Chard towards the North, with ditierent Sea Ports on the South. VILLAGES. In this particular, the Dis- trict under view is strictly Devonian : the Villages, that have fallen under my eye, are inconsiderable ; the farm houses and cottaees being happily scattered over the areas of the Towa^hips: a circumstance more or less observable, perhaps, in every part of the kingdom, where inclosures have been made from a state of W^ootUand, or of Pastunige : close arrangements of houses, in the form of WEST DOKSETSniRE, kc. 3^ Villages, being most obsen-able, in Common- Field Districts *. HABITATIONS. The building mate- rials, here, are various. Stones of different sorts are in iise -f^ ; but earthen walls are, nevertheless, prevalent ; and, on the whole, the habitations of this Eastern District are much inferior to those of West Devonshire ; which far excels the rest of the County, in this particular. The PRESENT APPEARANCE of the Face of this Country may be conceived, from what has been said, respecting its Surface, its Productions, its State of Inclosure, and the Distribution and Style of its Habitations. Viewed from some elevated points, where the barren or infertile summits of the hills only * The LAYING orT OF TOWNSHIPS, and their present STATE OF INCLOSURE, are subjects so very interesting to a mind employed in Agricultural Researches, that no apology can be wanting for the Remarks that are inter- spersed in these Volumes, respecting them ; as no other' department of the Island furnishes so many striking facts, * relating to these subjects, as the West of England. t Large flint stones — perhaps a cubical foot in size —and of the base kind already mentioned — are, in the Northern parts of the District, not uncommonly used as . a material of building. D4 40 DISTRICT. only are seen, it has all the appearance of a Mountain District. But, in travelling through it., and st^Il more in penetrating its recluser parts, the most striking transitions are produced, and compositions that are picturable are caught... It is observable, however, that the prevail- ing characteristic or the views of this passage of Country is Bcautj*, rather than picturesque Effect ; differing much, in this respect, from the wilder scenery of the M'est of Devonshire. In Circles of Views, this passage of Coun- try abounds. The Summit of the Knoll, the Brink of the Sea Clilf, on the West side of the Harbour of Bridport, is an interestiiig point ; commanding Land and Sea Views of the first cast. On Bearainster Down, one of . . -.J the \\-idest and richest circles of scenery, this Island atFords, is seen with every advantage. In variety, extent, and richness, considered jointly, I know nothing that equals it. To the East, the soft billow}^ surlace of the Chalk Hills of Dorsetshire, even to their far- ther extreme. To the NVest, the more rug- ged mountain summits of Devonshire, with D^rtniore rising in the farthest distance. To--. the North, the rich Vales of Somersetshire, backed by the Quantoc and Mendip Hills, WEST DORSETSHIRE, kc. 41 with a portion of the Bristol Channel break- ing in between them. To the South, the singularly broken and beautiful surface, in the Environs of Bridport ; the varied sum- mits of the liills giving feature and additional effect to the Bay of Bridport ; spreading its ample surface immediately under the eye; its Western Coast being finely broken and varied, by ragged promontories, and bold cliffs ; and its Eastern terminated, by the Isle of Portland ; with mackrel skiffs playing on the surface of the Bay, and with vessels of burden plowing their way across it. THE AGRICULTURE OP THIS DISTRICT. 1 HE leading Object, in viewing it, especially its Northern quarter, being that of catching OBVIOUS IMPROVEMENTS, in the MANAGEMENT OF AN ESTATE, rather than to register the mi- nuting of its AGRICULTURE, I am the less prepared to enter into a detail of its practices. 4^ AGRICULTURE. I shall therefore confine my remarks to a few general lieads. FARMS. Tlie distinguishing character of Farms, in the interior of the District, is Grass land. There are many which have ver>' little, if any, arahle land; being strictly DAIRY FARMS. In SIZE, the Farms of this Eastern District are conformable to those of the rest of the County ; being mostly of the lower class ; ^vith, however, a greater proportion of Farms ' of size: and, here, it is not uncommon for ' one man to hold two, three, or more distinct Farms; stocking them with cows, and letting them out to dairymen : a practice ho\^'e^'er which admits not of commendation ; and which will be renoticed. FAIOTEKS. Even in the most recluse part of the District, I met with some intel- ligent men. And altho the spirit of im- provement may not yet be sufficiently awake, the late memorable change, in tlie manage- ment of the dairy, shows demonstrably, that t})e riist of prejudice has beg\m to wear a^^'av, a fid augurs much for the benctit of the Country. BEASTS cF LABOR. In the interior of the District, Oxex are in use; but, in the Eastern r|uartcr. Cart Horses prevail. WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. 43 V IMPLEMENTS. The only thing th^at struck me, as excellent or peculiar, in the construction of the Farming Utensils of this District, relates to the Yoke; whose draft iron, or staple, is inserted, not perpendicu- larly, as it usually is; but diagonally; enter- ing the lower angle of the hind part of the Yoke, shooting upward and forward to the opposite angle ; where it is keyed, in the usual manner. This prevents the bend of the bow from bearing too hard against the shoulder points of the Ox, and is theoretically good. Its effect in practice is readily tried. * PLAN OF MANAGEMENT. In the ge- neral outline of practice, observable in the more Northern parts of this District, we find little which specifically differs from that of the County at large. The objects are nearly the same, and the means used in obtaining them similar. The difference Hes, chiefly, with the proportional quantity of each species of produce. In the East, as in AVcst DcA-on- shire, the objects are permanent grass, arable crops, and temporary leys : part of the grass, in both Districts, being applied to dairy cows, for bntter and skim cheese. But the proportion of Grass land, and the propor- tional number of cows, is much greater here, than 44. AGRICULTURE. than in the AVestcm parts of the County. Ot the lower grounds of the Valley of Yar- comb four fifth?, perhaps, are in a state of grass, permanent or temporary : and this is chiedy depastured by cows ; the number of working cattle being few ; and tlie sheep and vounsj cattle are mostlv confined to the hills, and upper grounds. The ARABLE CROPS of thc interior of the District are chiefly Jflieot, and Oats ; no- Beaiis / and but little Barley. The SUCCESSION is similar to that of West Devonshire : ley ground, partially fallowed for wheat, ^^ ith one or two crops of oats ; grass seetls being sown \\ ith the last crop. Some take oats, wheat, oats: agreeably to the practice of the Midland District ; \\ hose 5©il and subsoil are very similar. An inte- resting fact. In the more Eastern parts of the Dii-trict, there are shades of ditibrence obsen.-able in the Plan of Management : which, probablv, partakes more or less of that of other Vale T>ands of Dorsetshire. But \\ hat marks the Rural Majiagcment of the Environs of Bridport most evidently, \fi the culture of hci?ip and //<7,r, — to supply the consumption of a MAxuFACTuRVof sail clotu WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. 45 and CORDAGE (from the cal)le of a man of war, to the finest packing thread), which has long been carried on, there : giving em- ployment to the villagers of the neighbour- hood ; and, of course, operating as a mutual benefit to Agriculture and Commerce. MANURES. Lime is more or less in use, throughout the District": being burnt, from the stones that are found within it, — chiefly or wholly, with Welch culm. Formerly, much " marl" has been used, in the Valley of Yarcomb ; which exhibits " marl pits" of considerable capacity, and old enough to haye produced Oaks of a large size; — much resembling, the *' marl pits," and the " marl" of the ^lidland Counties : name- ly, a red clayey fossil, with scarcely any portion of calcareous matter in its composi- tion. And, what is noticeable, the marl of this District, as that of the jNIidland Coun- ties, is now giying way to lime : the change, if one may judge from general appearances, haying taken place about the same period of time ! 1804. The common hard red marls of the Valley of Yarcomb are insensible to the marine acid. But a specimen of a softer, more friable nature, I find, yields, by analysis, near twenty percent 46 AGRICULTURi:. percent of calcareous earth ; which is evi- dently contained in granules of chalk, that are interspersed among the clay, or substance of the marl. Another specimen which I pro- cured is a coarser mixture of chalk and clay, blended or stuck together. And it is more than probable, that, near the pits from whence these specimens were taken, masses of chalk may be lodged. See page 32. From the fertilizing effects of these chalky clajs, the practice of marling may have taken its rise ; and has since been extended, by custom or fashion, to the noncalcareous kinds. In the Bridport quarter, I obsers-ed the SHEEP FOLD, in morc than one instance ; agreeably to the Dorsetshire practice. GRASS LAND. Notwithstanding this may be considered as the main object of the District under view, I obser\'ed nothing praiseworthy in its Management. In the Valley of Yarcomb, where the soil is tena- cious, and the subsoil retentive, the Grass lands, whether permanent or temporary, are injured by superfluous moisture: an injury which is not so much owing to a >\'ant of draining, subtcrraneously, as to their lying too tint, to shoot off, with proper ctFctt, the WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 47 superficial waters. The natural consequence is, much of the surface is over-run with su- peraquatic weeds and the coarser grasses, when it ought to be occupied by nutritious and more profitable herbage. It is to be observed, that the Spring wa- ters which rise in the vallies of this District are of an ameliorative quality ; and tliat they are here, as in West Devonsliire, partially, and inaccurately, led over the Grass lands. But those of the rivers, at least of the Yar, are not considered as being of a fertilizing nature ; except in the times of floods. Its dilFerent branches are partly fed with the astringent waters of the black moory hills that rise on either side of it. But those which issue from the sides of the valley and its branches, and which are probably filtered through calcareous strata, may serve to cor- rect the evil quality of the moory waters ; and it is more than probable, that if the united waters of the Yar were properly ap- plied, especially in a dry season, they would not fail of proving beneficial to a wide flat of meadows which lie at hand to receive them. ORCHARDS are common in ever}^ part of the District. I bring them forward, here, merely to say of them, what may be readily. , conceived. 4^ AGRICULTURE. conceived, that, with respect to the stature of the trees, and the order in which they are arranged, they form a mean between the Orchards of Devonshire and those of Somer- setshire. The stems are, here, somewhat Waller, than in A\^est Devonshire, but are considerably short of the English standard. And, in the closeness of arrangement, they still more resemble the Devonshire Orchard. I speak particularly of those of the Valley of Tarcomb *. The dairy. Tliis has been, time imme- morial, a Dairy District. Formerly, its pro- duce was CHEESE, made from the neat milk ; being, probably, of the Somersetshire kind, sold under the nameof BridgewaterCheese; some of which I have met with of a very superior quality. Tlie Valley of Tarcomb was noted for its produce, which was known in the Vale of Exeter, by the name of Mem- bury Cheese. Indeed, its soil and herbage are such, as never fail to produce fine Cheese, ♦ III approaching this District, from the Eastward, the Orchards ot Chard were the hrst that struck me, as par- taking of the Devonshire Orchard. The stems shorter than those of Dorsetshire and Somersetshire; but tall enough for young Cattle to pasture beneath the Trees. And the same may be said of the larger Orchards of Yarcomb. 4 WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 49 if properly manufactm'ed. It is naturally a Cheese District f. Nevertheless, of late years, its produce has been changed to butter, for the London market; to which it is sent in barrels or firkins, as from the North of England : a change which has been brought about, by the powerful inlluence of the London prices, compared with those of the Country. The SIZES OF DAIRIES, judging from what fell under my observation, rise to thirty or forty Cows. I saw one of near forty. But from fifteen to thirty may be considered as the more ordinary number, even of the larger class of Dairies ; and there are of course many of smaller sizes. Among the inferior order of farmers, a Dairy of eight to twelve Cows is looked upon as respectable. The BREED OF cows, employed in these Dairies, is chiefly that of the \A'est of Eng- land ; nam.ely, the clean, middle-horned breed, which is common to the Counties of So- merset, (West) Devon, and Cornwall. In the neighbourhood of Bridport, I saw a tolerably good Dairy of Cows, of a mixed breed ; ap- parently t For some account of the Chedder Dairy, set Minute 65. VOL. II. E 56 AGRICULtURE* parently a cross between the middle and the long-horned breeds. Formerlv, the Cows used iu these Dairies were mostly reared, in the Country ; but, of late years, Butter has borne so profitable a price as to induce the Farmers to forego the rearing, and to purchase their Cows : a practice which, if it should continue, will soon introduce a mixture of stock. Of the DAIRY MANAGEMENT, of the Dis- trict under view, I can say little : I collected nothing on the minutia of practice worth registering. Its present practice can scarcely be said to be, as yet, cstiddishecl . It \\as not, therefore, an object ; even had I had leisure to attend to it. To register the mi- nutiae of the Dairy Management, so as to render the detail intelligible and useful, is a tedious and irksome task ; and requires not only time, but a species of opportunity, which did not occur to me, in this District. Many of these Dairies are let to dairt- MEN, at a certain rent for each Cow; tlie Farmer keeping up the stock, and supplying them with pasturage anrl winter food ; and finding a dwelling as well as a dairy house, for the renter. It is common for opulent men to hold a plurality of farms, and to lefc WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. $t them out to under tenants, in this way : a practice which is injurious to an estate; as tending to let down the buildings and th^ fences of farms, thus occupied by under te- nants ; who have not so permanent an inte- rest, in keeping them up, as a lessee, or first tenant has, who makes the place his residence, and expects to occupy the premises for a length of time ; and who is himself liable for dilapidations. 1804. Nevertheless, the practice of let- ting Dairies not having elsewhere fallen under my notice, I have endeavored to ascer- tain the particulars which belong to it ; and I register them as historic evidence of the present State of English Agriculture. llie ORiGix of this prevailing practice has probably risen out of the united circumstances of small tenements, and the lifeJeasehold te- nure. K man of substance,— having pur- chased the leases of a plurality of small farms, tying, perhaps, at some distance from each other^ — and having found mere servants neg- ligent or unfaithrui,— hit upon a plan of giving his assistants a personal interest in fheir management. And, under these circuni stances, the pi'ac- tice may be ei.igible ; not only for th • lease E 2 tenant. 51 AGRICULTURE. tenant, or middle man ; butter the commu- nity : as by this plan of managing a Dairy Farm, more produce may be sent to market from the given lands, than there would be, under the management of servants. Beside, Dairv renters are either trust-worthy married laborers, with notable wives who have been bred up in the Dairy Business, or farmers' sons who have not wherewithal! to stock a farm ; until, by their industry and frugality, as Dairvmen, they have been able to lay up the required capital, or have gained sutHcient credit among their monicd neighbours : so that renting a Dairy may be considered as an intermediate caUing, between a farm laborer and a working farmer. Hence, the evils, aforementioned, may be said to arise out of the improper management of estates, rather than out of the practice of letting Dairies ; which, when tenants arc suffered to hold a plurality of Farms, in a Dairy Country, ap- pears to be at least politically eligible ; tho certainly not equal to that of tenants occupy- insr, whollv, their several individual Farms. The TIME of AGREEING for a Dair^' of Cows is generally about Christinas ; when not only the individual cows, but their summer pasture grounds, as well as the hay grounds WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. 53 and aftergrass, are identified and fixed by the parties : these preHminary stipulations being the basis of the agreement. The KENT is, or ouixht to be, fixed by the existing or expectant price of produce. But- ter being now the principal article, it is, I believe, generally understood, that, with this article alone, the Dairyman ought to be able to pay his rent : the calves, skim-milk cheese, hogs, &c. being considered as his share of the produce, for labor and profit. Some time back, before the present high prices of Dairv produce took place, five to seven pounds, a Cow, was the usual rent : now, eight to ten pounds are given for the annual milk of a Cow ; according to her knovrn quality as a milker. The TERM agreed for is generally one year: the agreement being renewed annually. But sometimes, I understand, a running agree- ment is made for three years. The coNDiTioxs, which are usually agreed to, are these : — The Fanner agrees to find Cows, summer pasturage, and lattermath ; with good hay for Cows in milk, and ordi- nary hay, straw, or rough pasturage, for dry Cows, in winter ; and with litter for such stock as require it : also, not unfrequently, E 3 \s hen 14 AQRICULTUJJE. when tfec Dair)' is large, as twenU-five Cows and upw aril, the grazing of a brood mare, to carry out the butter: together with a dwell-- ing house, cheese loft, calf pens, hog sties, &€. sufficient for the use of the Dairy agreed for. Moreover, if a Cow die, while in milk, another of equal value is to be furnished : or if she lose a teat, or any other accident befall her, so as to abridge her produce, an equivalent allowance is to be made. The Dab'yman agrees to pro\ide utensils of the Dairv : and such articles of household furni- ture, as he and his tamilj may need ; as weli as to take due care of the Cows thus to be committed to his charge. , The TIME of E^TRY is either Candlemas, or Lady day. If the stipulated number of Cows and Calves arc not furnished by the time agreed upon, a suitable allowance is made ibr the deiiciency. The Maxagemext of the C^ws, in sum^ mcr, is usually this : — they are turned out to grass, at Mayday, or perhaps a week or a fort- night sooner, as tlie i»tate of the season may. direct ; the usual allowance of ground tor each Cow being an acre and a halt* to two acres, according to the qualit}* and condition ot the land agreed upon, for their suijuaaer pastures. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. ^55 In these " summer leys" they remain, mitil the " yee grass," or lattermath, of the sti- pulated mowing grounds, be ready to receive them; which is generally some time in Au- gust ; the Farmer usually engaging to mow the hay grounds early in June, in order that the aftergrass may be of a proper growth, at the time it wdll be wanted. The yee grass commonly lasts them till the beginning of Noyember, when they are returned to the summer leys ; and there remain until they become dry, or winter set in ; when they are either put into straw yards, or rough grounds, until the time of their calving; which generally commences the middle of Januaiy, and continues to Ladvdav. In whiter, the Cows are, in most cases, left in the charge of the Dairyman; but not in all. It is somer times agreed that the Dairyman shall fodder them ; at other times, that the Farmer shall expend his own hav. In either case, an in- accuracy of management almost necessarily takes place. The separated interests of tbs parties are here at variance. If the Dairymail fodder his Cows that are in milk, with hay, his interest is to lavish it on them, without fruo;alitv. On the contrarv, if the Farmer fodder, his interest lies in saving his hay, E 4 without 56 AGRICULTURE. without regard to the produce of the Co'w^. So that in either case, there is ample cause of dispute ; and often, no doubt, a pubUc loss. The early calves are mostly taken from their dams at a week old, and put together in pens. \s here they are fed v>ith 'warm skim milk, and frequently kept there, until the beginning of June ; when they are sold to drovers, who take them to Taunton and Exeter markets ; where they are bought up, by the moort?ide, or other coarseland Farmers, of West, Middle, and North Devonshire; and are there grown, worked, and returned, in the manner noticed, in Vol, L p. 2 lo. Sii£EP. I observed, in the Bridport quarter, some fine flocks of Dorsetshire Ewes : kept as breeding flocks ; similar to those of the Vale oi Exeter, and West De- vonsliire, which have been alreadv spoken of. The Sheep of the hills are similar to the mountain breed, \\ hich occupy the other hills of Devonshire, and those of Cornwall : but they are more generally horned ; partaking more of the horned Sheep of Dorsetsliire and Somersetsiiire. WEST DORSETSHIRE, &c. 57 SOM9 HINTS no :i'ji FOR THE IMPROVEMENT of THIS DISTRICT, It has been mentioned, that my chief inten- tion, in going over it, especially its Northern quarter, was that of endeavoring to point out the probable means of its Improvement. And altho my examinations, and the result of them, were mostly of a private nature ; some of the Remarks, they gave rise to, may, nevertheless, bear the public eye ; and may be more or less useful, to those who have property in the District, and who are de- sirous to improve its condition. Nor may the suggestions, here thrown out, be altoge- ther inapplicable to other Districts. The few subjects of Improvement which I can bring forward, here, with propriety, are, I. The HILLS, or COMMONABLE LANDS, Something has been already said respecting ^ PROPOSED BIPROVKMENTS. respecting the present &tate of these lands ; so tar as relates to their soil, and the marks of cultivation which appear on their surfaces. The SOILS, however, are various in quality. Some of these hills are covered with a loamy soil, of sufficient depth and texture to admit of profitable cultivation * : while others are nearly destitute of mold. The latter, very fortunately, is the smaller proportion. The PRESENT PRODUCE has been mention- ed, as being furze, heath, and the coarser grasses: interspersed, however, with plots of well hcrbaged sward. p The PRESENT STOCK is an iiUerior kind of Sheep; and young Cattle. ..^ The M£ANs 9F IMPROVEMENT appcaf to roe, to be those which I have suggested afore- going, for the improvement of Dartmore. $6<} Vol. I. p. S^29>.» The first step is to separate thexulturable froH^ the unculturable lands ;• — to cut olf the stcepc ragged brows of the hills, for plantlng. And the next, to Inclose their flatted tops, • Towlirtls the head of the Valley of Yafcomb, culti- \tltlon3Pd pcrmatientJiKJo^uresclMnbover the top of the hill ; uniting with the inclosed lands of the Vallet of XJ^TtEKV. And soneW! thd sail" of the Coftlmon ap- p-a.-i 1. 1 ]ic of a (ju^Uity, siiiiil^rto that of the cultivated h WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. 59 .either for cultivation, or for open sheep WALK, or RABBIT WARREN ; agreeably to the soil and surface, and conformably with the proposals already offered. See, as before. II. HEDGERO\\'S. Among the various Improvements of which the lower grounds, VALLEY LANDS, or "BOTTOMS," as thcv are called, are capable, none strikes the eye more forcibly, than that of its Hedgerow Timber ; which is, at present, in a state of neglect. The same unpardonable practice of lopping Oak Timber Trees, so shamefully prevalent in the Vale of Exeter, is extended, in some degree at least, to this District. The soil of these Valley lands is peculiarly suitable for the grow-th of Oak Timber; and, on the broad low hedge banks, which intersect them, Ship Timber of the first quality might be raised, in great abundance, with little injury to the Occupiers of the lands, compared with theadvantages which would therefrom accrue to the Proprietors and the Public. Yet we see these valuable nurseries, in many parts desti- tute, or very deficient, with respect to this inestimable article of produce ; owing, prin- cipally K.v wholly, to neglect, or a want of skill in the Management of Estates. The x:oppiCE woop of these Hedgerows being reaped 6o PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS. reaped bv the Tenants, they have an interest in d('5troving, and preventing the gjowth of TIMBER trees: u circumstancc Mhich calls tor double diligence, on tlie part o{ those who have tlie superintendance of Estates. There is, e^'identIy, sulficient room, in the wide Hedgero\^'S of these lands, to grow an abundance of fuel, for the Tenants, and a valuable supply of Timber, for the Landlord, and the Public. The means of Improvement are evident. Take do\^-n the trees, that are irrecoverably maimed, or which are stunted, or fully grown, and number those which are proper to be left standing. Train up the young stands, or timberlings, so as to give them length of stem ; not more to improve them as Timber Trees, than to prevent their doing unnecessary in- jur}' to the crops on either side, and to the Coppice wood which shall hereafter rise be- neath them. And set out, in vacant spaces, at every fall of Coppice wood, such promis- ing plants, as seldom fail to rise among un- derwood, growing on a soil so favorable to the Oak, as that of the Valley lands which are now under consideration. The last is a business which requires par- ticular circumspection. It cannot, for ob- WEST DORSETSHIRE, &:c." 6l vioiis reasons, be left to a Tenant or his workmen, with safety ; at least not to Te- nants in general. The only way, in which it can be done with a certainty of success, is to send round an experienced and faithful Woodman, previously to the cutting season, to set out and distinguish with paint, or other conspicuous and permanent mark, the plants which are proper to be left for standards. In this District, where the ordinary Woods are usually cut out, in winter, leaving the Oak standing, until the barking season, agreeably to the Danmonian practice, — there would seem to be a favorable time for mark- ing the standards, between these operations. But when it is considered, that the seedling plants, which ought always to be chosen where a choice offers itself, are frequently of inferior size to the sapling shoots from the stubs, and generally too inconsiderable to be left for peeling, such interval of time is too late. We may, therefore, without hesita- tion or hazard, conclude, that every Oak- land Estate, having wide woody Hedge- rows, should have an established regulation, requiring its tenants to give due notice of their intentions, previously to the cutting of their Hedgewoods ; in order that the proper 4 .. plants. 62 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS. plants, thev contain, may be marked for standards; they being allowed a full con-.- pensation for the wood thus marked, as svr'l as for the attention and care which may be' requisite, in preserving them from injury : giving due encouragement, to the tenants who promote the growth of Timber upon their respective farms ; — and ti-eating with neglect, those who are negligent of its pre- servation *. For Remarks on Training Hedgerow Tim- ber, and its Effects on Arable Crops, see' Planting and Rural Ornament, Vol. I. pages 56 and q6. III. PLAN OF FAR!^r MANAGEMENT. Some alteration, in the arable department of Management, seems to be w^anted. Thef temporary leys are mostly foul, weak, and thin of herbage ; owing, doubtlessly, to the: practice of taking two or three grain crops, in succession, and laying the land down in a state of exhaustion, as well as foul, and out of tilth. Perhaps taking a crop of beans, in rows well cleaned, between the wheat and the^ oat crops, might be found doubly beneficial ; * 1804. In the present lease of this estate, the regu- lations here suggeflt-cl mnke part of the conditions. See Heads of a Lease^ inr Treatise on Lai.ded Propektv. 5 WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. %J as introducing a species of produce, new to the soil ; and serving to prepare it for the reception of the grass seeds, by a fallow- crop *. In cases where the soil is very foul, a whole year's fallow is, of course, requisite^ IV. In the MANAGEMENT of the SOIL, two or three Improvements are obvious. Much UNDERDRAINING is Wanted ; not only in the meadows or low er lands ; but on the rising grounds and hangs of the hills. Stones are plentiful ; and sod drains might be tbund to answer, on the stronger lands. Another Improvement, which presents it- self, in the Management of the Soil, relates to the method of laying it down to grass* In West Devonshire, where the subsoil is absorbent, and the soil friable and firm, it is perfectly right to lay it down, as flat and smooth as possible. But, here, where the soil is tenacious, and the subsoil retentive, and much of it kept in continual surcharge^ by the waters pent up beneath it, the prac- tice is in a degree absurd. Nevertheless, the practices of these two distant Districts, with respect * For the proper culture of beans, as a fallow crop^ see Southern Counties, An. Beans j Dislrict of Maidstone. 64 PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS. respect to depositing, or forming the sur- face of their soils with the plow, to receive the given crops, are precisely the same. For wheat, the soil is gathered up into narrow ridges ; and is laid flat, for every other crop. The Improvement which strikes me, as proper to be proposed for this District, is that of keeping the land in lidgcs, of half a statute rod in width, for every crop ; or of preserving the present narrower ridges for wheat, and throwing two of them together, for beans, oats, and ley herbage : being ever, mindful to form the surfaces of tlie ridges gently convex, to shoot off the superfluous rain water which falls on them ; with inter- furrows, to receive the water ; and with cross trenches, to convey it away, to the neigh- bouring ditches and common shores : a prin- ciple of Management, which is applicable to all cool retentive soils, in the Island, and might form a restriction in leases for such lands *. V. MANURES. In a remote situation, like that which is now more particularly un- der notice, every experiment and expedient * For the method of cuUivating such soils, in halfrod ridges, see Minutes of Agriculture, in the Southern Counties, Sect. Soil Process. WEST DORSETSHIRE, Sec. 65 should be used, to meliorate the condition of its lands, and to make up for the loss, they annually sustain, by the produce carried off, without any foreign supply or return for such exhaustion. Lime appears to be the only extraneous or factitious Manure, at present in use. In the Rural Economy of Yorkshire, I ventured to suggest, as a probable mean of meliorating strong cohesive soils, the burn- iixg of their surfaces ; — not more for the ashes, as a Manure, than for the cinders, or burnt CLAY, which such a process necessarily pro- duces, as a mean of improving the contex- ture of such cohesive soils *. And I have lately been informed, that the burning of the clay of drains, and spreading it over the strong cohesive lands of Somersetshire, is now prac- tised, with great advantage. These simple and cheap operations are, at least, subjects of experiment, in every District, whose soils are of a close retentive nature. The lands, now immediately under con- sideration, have another probable mean of Improvement within their reach ; and which can rarely be commanded, by lands of a si- milar * See Yorkshire, Vol. I. page 291. VOL. II. F 6o PROPOSED IMPROVEMENTS. milar nature. I mean the black moory EARTH of the heaths, which inclose and over- look them. There is doubtlessly more or less earth of this kind, which lies at present use- less on the hills, and ^^ hich cannot, there, be turned to so beneficial a purpose, as, in much probability^ it may in the Vallies: applying it, either in a simply digested state ; or in compost with lime ; or in the state of ashes ; — as a short course of experiments, attentively conducted, could not fail to de- termine. DISTRICT THE SEVENTH. THE VALE OF TAUNTON, AND ITS ENVIRONS: WITH CURSORY REMARKS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH SOMERSETSHIRE. In September 1791, on my way from West Devonshire to Sussex, I stopt some days at Taunton ; to look round its fine Environs ; and to get a general view of the Natural Characters, and some insight into the Rural Management, of this celebrated Passage of Country. I, then, not only examined the Area of the Yale, on either side, but ascend- ed the QuANToc and the Black-down Hills, which overlook it ; and went into one of the Sedgemores which mark Somersetshire, so discriminately, from the rest of the Island. F 2 I havC; 68 DISTRICT I have, since, had rej>eated occasions to travel through the Vale: and, in the au- tumn of 1794, on leaving Devonsh'ure, I re- newed my attention; continuing my Remarks THROUGH THE Cou>"rt*, in thc line between Tiverton and Devizes. THE VALE OF TAUNTON. Th- situation of tliis fertile District, is in the Western Quarter of Somersetshire. Its >\TCRAL BOUNDARIES, OH the North, are the Quantoc Hills, which separate it from the ^^'este^l quarter of tlie Vale of Bridge\^ ater : on the South, the Black-down Hills, which sever it, in a similar manner, from the Vale of Exeter : — and, on the West, the Dulverton and Brandon Hills. On the East, it narrows between the Black-down and the Quantoc Heights ; and, at the depressed promontor)' of the latter, forms a junction with the more ample Vale of Bridgev»ater, of which it raav well be considered as a branch. See Minute 65. ^ 4ts EXTENT is small. It is barely entitled VALE OF TAUNTON. 69 to the distinction which is here given it, and which it not uncommonly bears ; tho, in natural characters, its dimensions apart, it is in the strict sense, a Vale District, Less than one hundred square miles of surface, I apprehend, would contain the whole of its more valuable lands. The ELEVATION of its Area, above the sea's surface, is inconsiderable ; yet it is sut- ficient to keep it dry and healthy. Nor does any part of it, except its lower extreme, where it opens hito the Vale of Bridgewater, appear to have ever been liable to the tide, or collected floods : it contains within its area no level marshes, or " moors," such as are scattered in the more central parts of Somersetshire. Li SURFACE, as has been intimated, this District takes the Vale character. Its area is diversified with rising grounds, and inter- spersed w^ith low meadowy lands. The banks, on either side, rise to a great height. On the South side, the foot of Black Down shelves smoothly, tho somewhat steeply, into the Vale ; but, on the North, the Qumtoc Hills rise abruptly, and with a more broken and strongly featured front. From Cotlierston Lodge, which crowns a prominent knci], F 3 that 70 DISTRICT. that juts out from these hills, the entire sur- face of the Vale is commanded. It is closed, to the West, by a crowd of hillocks, — in tumult wild assembled : a genuine passage of that singular species of surface, \\'hich is common to the Western extreme of the Island ; and which may be said to terminate, or rather to commence, here*. The CLIMATURE of this Vale might be prejudged, from its situation. The bases of high extended hills are generally cool ; and backward, with respect to seasons : — espe- cially if they face the North ; and still more especially, if the substrata are of a cohesive retentive nature ; as are those of the South side of tlie Vale of Taunton. In the second week of September i/Qi, much barley was still unharvested, and some uncut. The SOILS of this, as of many other con- tracted Vale Districts, xsLvy in quality, ^^^th the hills which form them. ]Much of the North side of the Vale of Taunton is a deep rich sand — a carrot soil : while the opposite side is chiefly the same strong red loam, which we have found in the Valley of Tar- comb, and in the Vale of Exeter. • And in the neighbourhood of Bridport, on the Southern side of the peninsula. VALE OF TAUNTON-. 71 The SUBSOILS are still more various. In the area of the Vale, a Gravel is seen : under the rich red sands of Bishop's Lydiard, a concrete substance of the same color, and of various degrees of hardness, prevails. This concretion, in some places, takes the nature of rock ; which, on being exposed to the air, acquires a great degree of hardness, and is used as a buildinp; material. Under the strono- red soils, of the opposite side of the Vale, a deep loam, of a similar nature, is found : and, under this, substrata of a white sandy substance, hardening in some instances into a kind of stone, is seen interlayered with red loam ; an accompaniment which is common to many, if not all, of the strong red lands of the Island. The RIVER of the Yale is the Toxe, or Taux,— which is rendered NAVIGABLE to Taunton. The freightage is chiefly \^'elcli Coals, for fuel, and Culm, for burning Lime. The chief PRODUCTION of this fertile District is, at present, Corx. There is very little Grass observable; unless near the Towns; and by the sides of the Tone, and its branches. And, even from the command- ing point of Cotherston, not more than t^\ o or three small plots of woodlaxd arc seen, f 4 in 71 DISTRICT. in the area of the Vale. The hedgerows, however, are full of wood ; and, when view- ed from the opposite banks, a greater degree of woodiness appears. The whole is in a STATE OF INCLO- SURE ; with FIELDS of varied form and size. FENCES. In the Vale of Taunton we trace, by broken steps, the decline and ter- mination of the DANM0^'IAN hedge. In the more \A'estern and central parts of the area of the Vale, the prevailing Fence re- sembles that of the Valley of Varcomb, and the lower grounds of the Vale of Exeter : namely, a low broad bank, loaded with cop- pice wood, and hedgerow timber trees : the former mostly Oak ; the latter Elms, shorn of their boughs, as in the ordinary practice of the kingdom. But, in passing down the Vale, the Hav\ - THORN HEDGE bcgins, by degrees, to mix with the coppice mounds, and, betore the Eastern extremity is reached, becomes the prevailing Fence ! In the MANAGEMENT OF FARMS, the Vale of Taunton ditilrs, in some respects, from the Danmonian husbandry; especially in the outline or plan of management. It is properly an arable Distiiict: the tem- VALE OF TAUNTON. 73 poRARY Ley, which is common to Devon- shire, scarcely appears to extend into this Vale. In the second week of September, half the District, as seen from the hills, was PLOWED GROUND, OF TuRNEPS ! the Fcst ap- peared to be PERMANENT Grass, with the Corn, then unharvested, and Stubbles un- broken up. Nevertheless, in minutial practices, par- ticularly in the management of Lime, the burning of Beat, and the sowing of Wheat, the Vale pursues the Devonshire method. The Crops are Wheat, Barley, Oats, and Beans, the last more especially, on the stronger lands of the South side of the Vale. ORCHARDS. The height of Orchard trees, as of Hedges, undergoes a change in this Vale. In travelling, between Exeter and Taunton, the stem of the Apple tree is seen to lengthen towards Somersetshire ; but not in uniform progression. And, in passing from Tiverton, into the Vale, similar ap- pearances are seen. The first full-stemmed English Orchard was observed, in the neigh- bourhood of WelUngton. Further remarks on the Practice of the Vale will appear in the following Journal, through Somersetshire. 4 THE 74 DISTRICT. THE QUANTOC HILLS, THESE form a narrow range of Mountain Heights, which rise at the junction of the two Vales, below Taunton, and lead, in a North- west direction, tow ards the Coast of tlie Bris- tol Channel ; dividing the low fertile lands of the Vale of Taunton, from those of the Vale of Bridgewater. Their elevation, with respect to the ad- joining lands, is considerable ; tho their po*' sitive height, above the tide, is not great. They are, however, too high, and too moun- tainlike, in their general aspect, to be merely deemed upland ; yet not of sufficient import- ance to be styled mountain. The SURFACE of these hills, or rather chain of hills, is greatly diversified. They resem- ble, in surface, soil, and present produce, the hills of East Devonshire ; and, like those, have been heretofore cultivated (in whole or in part) : the vallies or breaks, between them, being now in a state of cultivation. The SOIL of the extended summit, to the East of Cotlicrston Lodge, appears to be of THE QUANTOC HILLS. 75 a nature that would pay for cultivation ; be- ing now chiefly covered with grass and the upland sedges. But, to the Westward, the soil seems to be more barren, and much of the produce heath. There being evident traces of Limestone on these hills, their improvement, in much probability, might be rendered very profit- able to individuals. Their insulate situation renders them highly interesting, to those who admire the ample scenery of Nature. The JVIendip Hills, and the principal part of Somersetshire which lies to the South of them ; the Hills of Wilt- shire and Dorsetshire ; Beaminster Down, with the prominent Hills of East Devonshire, terminating with Black Down ; distant Hills, in Devonshire ; Exmore, and the Hillocks of the Coast ; with the Bristol Channel and its Holms, backed by the Welch Mountains ; spread out wide to the view* THE BLACK-BOWN HILLS, IT has been said, that these hills form the Southern bank of the Vale of Taunton, and separate 76 DISTRICT. separate it from the Vale of Exeter: and, in like manner, they divide the Counties of So- merset and Devon. They are a continuation of the llminstcr Hills ; forming their Western extremity. In ELEVATION, thev exceed everv thinjr in their ncighhourhood ; equally overtopping the Quantoc, and the Axminstcr and Honi- ton, Heights. In SURFACE, they resemble the rest of the minor mountains of this part of the Island ; namely, flat, or swelling; divided by wide open Dells, or shallower Dips ; and partially severed, bv deep well soiled Vallics, or ** Troughs" — as they are called — of cultiva- ted lands. The extreme point, to the West, forms a bold Promontory ; ^^•caring, on its Western brow, an alpine appearance. The SOIL of tlie summit is of an inferior quality: of a black moory nature : and strow- cd with the same base kind of Fl}r?fs, that arc obsen'able on the other hills of East De- vonsliire ; and this without any traces of Chafk : ap unusual circumstance, worthv of the N;ituraliat's attention. The STOCK of these mountain heights are young cattle of the West-of-England breed, and most of them neat : with the same auk- THE BLACK-DOWN HILLS. 77 ward, halt-horned breed of Sheep, that are common to all the wild lands of this extre- mity of the Island. On the Northern hang, — about the mid- way,— of these hills, are quarries of Lime- stone, found in a singular state. The quality of the Stone is evidently that of the Claystone of Glocestershire, of Lei- cestershire, and of the Yale of Belvoir ; but instead of being deposited in regular strata, it is found in detached masses, bedded, pro- miscuously, in pale-colored earth ; similar to that with which it is interlayered, in the instances above mentioned ; — as if the strata of Stone had been broken to pieces, while the earthy matter was in a plastic state, and the masses had been blended, by some vio- lent agitation. The color of the Stone is blue, internally, and white, towards the surface ; and burns to a somewhat sulphur-colored Lime ; re- sembhng that of Barrow, in Leicestershire* ; and of Lyme, in Dorsetshire. See page 3 1 . Further * See Midland Counties, Vol. I. p. 27. N. ^8 DISTRICT. Further Remarks on the Limestone of West Somersetshire. I afterwards examined the Limeworks and quarries of the Hills, which terminate the Vale of Taunton to the East, and which are entirelv detached from the Black-down and Keroche Heights. Here, the same Stone is found, in regular unbroken strata ; as they appear in the quar- ries of Glocestershire, Leicestershire, &c. out with a yer\r striking ditference respecting their situation. In the places above men- tioned, they are lodged beneath the surface of low flat Vale lands ; whereas, in the in- stance under notice, they break out of the face of a lotty and steep hill. Nevertheless, such is the impervious and retentive quality of these strata, that the land which lies over them, even in this ele- vated situation, and close upon the brink of a precipice, which probably has heretofore been the v\aterworn cliff of an estuary- or arm of the sea, is cold and ungenial, as that which covers their water}' bed, in the low grounds of the Vale of Gloccster. The surface, in many places, is occupied by Coltsfoot. A field, close upon the brink of the cliiF which WEST SEDGEMORE. 79 overlooks the marsh, or Sedgemore, that will presently be noticed, was under fallow for Wheat, at the time I was upon these Hills (in Sept. I79l)' ^^^' ^^^"^ ^^^ <^0'^' plexion of the soil, it appeared to be barely worth the labor of cultivation. How much more depends on the quality of the substratum, than on that of the soil itself: the very soil, here under notice, if incumbent on an absorbent subsoil, would be worth tliree or four times its present value. jrEST SEDGEMORE. FROM the eminence just mentioned, I had a favorable opportunity of gaining a ge- neral view of this rich Level of marsh lands. And, by riding a few miles within its area, passing through its herds and flocks, and conversing with those who were attending to them, — I had a similar opportunity of ob- taining the particulars of information, which a cursory view required. The NATURAL BOUNDARIES of thcsc marshcs are the Limestone Heights, above mentioned, on the South and Southeast ; on the West, the broken base of the Eastern extremity of the Quantoc Hills, and the narrowed mouth of 9o DISTRICT. of the Vale of Taunton. On the North, tlie Parret and the Tone are considered as the boundary of the ** Moor" immediately under consideration ; their junction forming the ex- treme point to the North. But lands of a similar nature are seen to stretch away be- yond that point, farther northward : namely. Ring's Sedgemore. In the view from these hills, there appears to be an exteIvt of these marsh lands ten or twelve miles in length, and several miles in width, under the eye. But the oulUne is extremely irregular ; it being given by the rising grounds of the Vale of Bridgewater ; a principal part of which is commanded from this eminence. The ELEVATION of these lands (the part I examined at least) is such as to secure them, at present, from the tide ; nor did I learn that land floods incommode them, in any considerable degree *. T'Their surface is level as that of the water, which, with moral certainty, once occupied the space they now fill. If we calculate on the rapid encrease of earthy matter, at the * In the rainy season of 1799, however, ^1"^^^* ^^^ whole of this extensive tract of Sedgcmores was under water. See Min. 47. WEST SEDGEMORE. Ex mouths of rivers, whose waters are collected from rich arable lands ; — and en the decreas- ing depth of the Sea ; which, tho perhaps not equal to what some modern writers con- jecture, has probably been considerable, du- rino; the last millennium of time ; it is rca- sonable to suppose, tliat since the first settle- ment of this Island, the Sea rolled its rapid tides within the area now under contempla- tion : and the rapidity of the tides, in the estuary of the Parret, as of the Severn, ac- counts more fully for the quick encrease of the lands on their banks, occasioned by the alluvious matter forced up, by the " Boar" or Eagre ; which is common to the rivers of the Severn Sea *. The ^ This striking natural effect, I have repeatedly ob- served, on the banks of the Severn, near Glocester; where, at certain times of the tide, and most especially during a strong Westerly wind, a body of water, some few feet in depth, rushes impetuously up the Channel of the river; gliding, as it were, upon the descending waters ; forcing Its way out at the more abrupt bends, and dashing its spray to a very great height, on every obstruction ; at- tended by sounds, which may sometimes be heard to a considerable distance. This effect is probably caused, by the form r.nd situa- liwi of the Bristol Channel : which receives th^ tide, from VOL. Ti. a the «2 DISTRICT. The present name of the marshes of So- mersetshire, is a suliicient evidence, to prove, that, at the time it was assigned them, the reclaim was not completed : that they were, at the time it was applied, in a state of Fen ; not in that of firm, dry Marsh Lands, as we now find them. The SOIL of this marsh is a red loam, of considerable strength and tenacity ; resem- bling, with great exactness, that of the Isle of Alnev, and the other marsh or meadow lands of the Severn * ; except in the deeper tinge of red that the soil of A\^est Sedgemore has received, from a greater mixture of co- lored water, which the red soils of the Vale of Taunton, and tlie Northeastern base of the Black-down and Neroche Hills, have fur- nished. The HEKBAGR is singularly fine: apparently the Dogstail ^i'ljfiosurus crisfafiisj, Ray- grass, and Vv'hitc Clover; with, however, the Atlantic, by a wide opening, and contracts towards the mouth; of tlie rivers that are thus aTectcd. The uarrowing tsiuary of the Humber, produces a • similar ciiect. • For farther l!cmarks on the formation of Marsh and Meadow land*, see the Rural Economy of Gi.oces- TERSHif^E, Vol. I. p. 170 ] also Treatise on Landeo "Property, Art. Morass. WEST SEDGEMORE. 83 some plots of thistles, on the drier parts, and stripes of silver weed fPotentilla Ame- rinaj on the sides of the drains, and more swampy places. Hence, this extent of marshes may be con- sidered as land of the first quality: fit for every purpose of permanent grass land. The STOCK which it bore, at the time I was over it, were Horses, Cattle, Sheep, and Geese. Of the Horses, I saw nothing which struck me as requiring notice. The Cattle consisted chietlv of voung growing stock — mostly two or three years old. AVith, however, many Cows ; some of them apparently in milk, or recently thrown up. The condition of most of these Cattle was good ; many of them were full of flesh : tho the grass was short, as that of Sheep and Geese Commons usually is found. Aged Cat- tle, I understood, are brought forward on these commonable lands, to be finished with aftergrass. The Sheep were chiefly or whoDy of the horned breed ; and had been put upon these lands, for the purpose of fattening. In a fa- vorable year, it seems, they get tolerably fat. But much drought bakes those clayey lands, G 2 and U DISTRICT . and much rain renders ihem too wet for Sheep. The myriads of Gecsc are incalculable. The whole are subjected to the operation of*' pull- ing." They are now (13 September) covered with down, only. The operation, I was in- formed, is repeated several times, in the course of the summer ; and found very pro- fitable. They are kept on the '• Moor," all winter. In long-continued frost and snow, they are fed, and, general!}', I was lold, w ith Beans. Remarks. — From this cursor}' >-iew, of these unappropriated lands, they appear to be of some considerable value, in their pre- sent commonable state. But viewing them as being, naturally, grazing and mowing grounds of a superior quality ; and seeing the uncertainty of seasons in this climate ; there can be little doubt of their being capa- ble t'f siTording much greater profit, to indi- viduals, and to the Ccnimunit} , in a state of appropriation and division. The prompt objection to tlic alteration is that of gi^ ing a check to the rearing of Cat- tle ; and, some will add, to the rearing of Geese. The last, however, is not an object \VF.ST SEDGEMORE. 85 of sufEcient importance, either in Rural, or Political Economy, to weigh, as an argu- ment, on this subject ; — tho the feathers may be entitled to their full ^veight. And, with respect to the former, it may be said, that it cannot he good poUcy to sutfer lands to lie in an under-productive state, by way of forcing the propagation of any particular species of animals, to the detriment of the aggregate produce of the Country. CURSORY REMARKS IN A JOURNEY THUox: Gil SOMERSETSHIRE'^. TIVERTON TO TAUNTOX. (Twenty one Miles.) FRIDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER, 1794. Leave the charming environs of Tiverton : the finest situation in Devonshire ; and one of the first in the Island. Meet * In continuation of that through* North Devon- shire. I must again apologize for the nakedness of these remarks. G 3 U TIVERTON TO TAUNTON. Meet many lime carts, from the works on the borders of Somersetbbire. The lime mostly in bags : some in bulk. Pack horses laden with hay, in tnisses. A view of the rich environs of Brad n inch opens : backed by the hills of East Devonshire. Pass through a rich plot of country, round Halberton (three miles). The subsoil red grouty gravel ; as near Hatherley. Some fields of fine turneps ; beautifully clean. The road mostly good: now repairing, with flinty gravel, or broken flints. More good turneps ; near Sampford. A variegated subsoil : red and white. Enter flat furze - grown commons, and leave the rich District of Tiverton. The Black-down hills, with a strong moun- tain feature, appear in front, and at hand. Meet more lime carts and some waggons : the latter of the West-of-England construc- tion. Instance of mowins; dwarf furze : a second workman following, \N'ith a rake, to form the swaths into faggots. Pass a young plantation of forest trees, of ditFerent species ; put in among dwarf furze: the first instance of recent planting (excepting 4 SOMERSETSHIRE. 87 the Scotch firs near Hatlierley) observed in this journey of near a hundred miles ! Pits of red gravel, bv the side of a good road. The subsoil — a seam of waterworn gravel, and rough pebbles. Leave the Yale of Exeter. Join the Exeter road (riine miles), and en- ter Maiden Down: a wide furze-grown com- mon : the depressed ridge v»'hich separates the Vales of Exeter and Taunton. A broad view of Somersetshire breaks upon the eye : the Vale of Taunton, backed by the Quantoc hills. Observe small and very neat cattle, on the commons. A deep white sandy substratum ; and hea^y sandy road. Some good oxen of the Sometsef shire breed. Not so clea)i as the best of North Devon- shire. More beautifully clean turneps. Sandy road, and hollow way : the substra- tum red sandy rock. A tall English orchard! (near Wellington) the stems five or six feet high. Instance of burning Beat, in the Devon- sliire manner. G 4 Westcountry 88 TntRTON TO TAUNTON. ^^'estcountrv waggons prevail : crooked rails, but no insections. A fallow hid up, in ribs and trenches. Poor village huts. Six oxen stirring a fallow of strong red ^eet a strlnjr of culm carts ; on their way, from the Ta^^uon Navigation, to the Lime- works. Some neat clean young cattle. Dip into a close wood-bound llat : high hc'dges and hedgerow timber ; as in East !Noriolk. The hedgebanks lower; but still \vide, and partake of the Devonshire coppice hedges. Devonshire tools are in use, here. The pointed shovel is common. Pass seserdl pieces of good clean tumeps. Hedge trees universally lopped. A few single Ha^vtha^n hedges begin to appear. Several instances of stubble turneps. 8ome thick polled sheep. Lime compost, on headlands, as in De- vonshire. Instance cf a pulse ** arrish,*' dunged for wheat. Some good Somersetshire oxen : dark Mood red, SOMERSETSHIRE. 89 Subsoil variegated : streaks of red and white. Healthy, tall-stemmed, English orchards ! Leave the red land. The soil and subsoil, now, of a light brown color. Much hedgerow timber ; mostly Elm. A dairy of good cows. Charming road ; w ith a high broad foot- path : a London-like approach to Tauxton ;^-a large, well built, handsome town : the tower of the Church of St. Mary is singularly tall and beautiful. The Market of Taunton. The Market Place of Taunton is one of the first in the Kingdom; whether as to size, neatness, or accommodations : a triangular inclosure, fitted up with streets of covered stalls, for butchers meat, and furnished with spacious colonnades, for corn, poultry, &c. and one for cheese, bacon, and other articles, — which are sold, retail, by farmers' wives and daughters : an unusual, but a very poli- t'lcaly way of bringing these articles, at once, to the consumer ; without the intervention of mere dealers. The Corn Market, here, as in Norfolk, is held in the afternoon ; beginning about three o'clock* gd TIVERTON to TAUNTON. o'clock. ^Sluch corn in the market, in nar- row two-bushel bags ; each selk r having a tray, to shoot part of a bag into, that its quality may be the better seen. Observed no samples ; but understand that much is sold through their medium *. TAUNTON TO SOMERTON. (Eighteen !Miles.) SATURDAY, 20 SEPTEMBER, 1794. THE Country, for the first two miles is nearly flat : the soil a lightish loam : then, somewhat swelling: a rich fine country. Hawthorn hedges common. Many stubble turneps : some of them promising. Much arable land : the soil, here, mostly a strong red loam. ISIany wheat stubbles turned under : an evidence of the forward state of husband r}'. Arrish mows common in this part of Somersetshire. Instance of an Ox cart, with the yoke hung to the pole, by a wooden bow, instead * These Remarks, on the Market of Taunton, were chiefly made in 1791. SOMERSETSHIRE. 91 of an iron ring. Donbtlessly the primitive contrivance. Beautifully simple ; but liable to accidents. The misletoe common in orchards ! — See Vol. I. page 21 7. The plow of Somersetshire has a long but well turned moldboard ; w^ith a wrest, stand- ing somewhat high ; and with a ladder-piece behind, which steadies a long, slender, right handle, shooting forward to the beam. Leave a plot of vale land, to the right. Tlie under stratum appears in seams of red earth, and a sort of white stoney substance- Wheat stubbles in narrow ridges, as throughout Devonshire. Many fallows, for wheat, are seen. Act-of- Parliament hedges, against the road. The first, probably, of any extent, from the L^ndsend. Still many hedgerow Elms. Instance of paring and burning. A large field orchard going to decay. Pass some good young cattle. The pointed shovel is still in use. Cross a dip of cold weak land (five miles). A rainy stormy morning. How conve- nient is a carriage, and how productive of information ! A tablet full of interesting facts. 92 TAUNTON to SOMERTOX. facts, in travelling five or six miles; notwith- standing the untavorableness of the weather. A traveller on horseback could not look up : nor if any thing met liis eye, could he note it, with conveniency *. Ox carts (wains or coops) are common. . . Instance of a young field orchard (in North Cuny). The plants tall, and set out at good distances, in the best Herefordshire manner. A quarry of blue building stone. !Manv orchard grounds. A newly planK^d quickset hedge. Many neat vounji cattle. The soil and subsoil still red. Good limestone road f . Ascend the hmestone heights. See p. /8. Carts and waggons, at the lime kilns: no pack horse?. • Thif remark app];c> to TTtAVELLrxG. In examining a pariicahr District cr statiov, riding ox horseback is preferable to a carriage; and walking, infiaitdy pre- ferable to eiiher. t A singukr method of BREAKING road materials, especially the base flints that have been repeatedly mentioned, is observable in this coantn- : a one-handed hammer being invariably used, by a workman sitting : a method which, it is asserted, is more expeditious, than the ordinary one of using the sledge hammer ; which is, ktrc a» eUewbere, used in breaking stones for the road?. SOMERSETSHIRE. 93 A good back view of the Vale of Taunton. A broad view of the Sedgemores, — co- vered with cattle, sheep, and geese; and, over them, the Poldown and Mendip hills. Some jrood horned lambs. Thin hmestone land ; and more lime kilns. A rich-looking valley of land opens to the right. Instance of a field orchard, in a state of arable culture, as in Herefordshire. A Sedgemore, or ^larsh, of some extent is seen to the right. Swing plows universal. More field orchards. The hedges of the road cropped. A herd of tali thin white pigs. Continue upon cold limestone heights. Pass Burton Pynsent. A neat farmery, and large farm. Clean fallows, and good clover. Farm hedges kept down to fence height. Four heavy horses plowing broken ground. Six oxen employed in the same operation ; with heavy long swing plows. A full hedgerow of apple trees ; as about Bromyard in Herefordshire. Pass through Curry Rivel. Strong cold land : wheat, beans, and clover. See 94 TAUNTON to SOMERTON. See large flocks of horned sheep ; of a breed similar to that of Dorsetshire, and East Dc\Oishire. I eave the limestone heights, and descend towards Langport. A wide Vale District opens to the right (the Vale of Ilchf.ster) : with a naked Chiltcrn Countr}', in front. Six oxen at plow, and four at harrow : all in yoke : also two at plow, with two horses before them ; as in the South Hams of De- vonshire; and as formerly in Yorkshire. See the Montacute or Ham-down Hills ; forming, in this point of view, a broken, prominent, striking object. Flat-roofed hayricks, as in Cleveland. Cross the Parret, at Langport, — a mean market town. A Navigation and Coal Yard. Pantiles in use, as a covering. Enter a wide common field : the first of anv extent, I believe, from the Landsend. Foul bad husbandry : couch and thistles. The subsoil limestone gravel ; yet the land appears to be cold and weak. Flocks of sheep now in these open fields. Another fiat of marshes appear to the right. In front, a continued range of limestone Downs: — large depressed swells of arable SOMERSETSHIRE. 95 land, with shallow grassy dips between them ; part in open common fields, — part inclosed. A \nndmill appears : the first observed, in this journey. Large flocks of sheep, in the open fields. A sheep fold : the first. Still, an open, naked, Cambridgeshire-like Country. Catch a distant view of the Dorsetshire Hills. Many good cart horses on the road. Large limestone liags — or coarse marble slabs — raised near the road. The plow team — four horses at length. The tops of the swells are dr\' — stone to near the surface : but the sides appear cold and weak. Foul thistly common fields. A roughly broken passage, to the left. A large sheep fold. Somerton appears in a broad flat ; or slial- low bason ; with rising grounds on every side. A large field of rough old grass land : appropriated ndsfc. An ox waggon, partially loaded with straw; and thatched : doubtless, a harvest waggon, thus set by for tiie next season. Enter Somertox, — another mean market tow n : the suburbs in ruins. SOMERTOX 96 SOMERTON and its ENVIRONS. SOiMERTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. A DECAYING Place : the remains, pro- bably, of a good Town : now, evidently, in neglect. The building materials 1 i mcstone and thatch . Tlie stones neatly hammered, as in the Yale of Pickering. Below the Town, towards the East, the environs are beautifully broken. A valley of rich marsh land, overlooked by bold wooded knolls. Large good oxen, and good horned wed- ders, now grazing in the marshes. SOMERTON TO SHIFPON I^IALLET. (Fifteen Miles.) SATURDAY, 20 SEPTEMBER, 1/94. CROSS the meadowy valley, and wind among the rugged hillocks, which form its Northern bank. A flock of very neat, horned €wcs : — in the best Dorsetshire form. Ascend a thin-soiled limestone swell. The Valley rc-opens, to the right. Pass a dairy of indifferent cows. SOMERSETSHIRE. 97 The soil encreases in strenp-th. Small fields and hedgerow elms; evidences of deep well soiled land ; but unusual in ele- ^•ated situations. The Country is now more open ; and a fine Yalley is disclosed to the left. A remarkable line of road ; on a well soiled ridge, with a rich Yale District on either hand. The conical hill near Glastonbury^ sur- mounted by a tower, is a striking object in this point of view. Strong wheat stubbles, on these uplands. A fallow for wheat, now folding. Limestone or marble quarries, on either side of the road. Many men at work ; and teams waiting. Mostly raised in large slabs, six or eight inches thick. Lie, horizontally; and near the surface of level ground. Men employed in polishing them.. The color blue grey. Village buildings of stone and pantile. Some orchards, on this cool soil. But the substratum is calcareous. The Valley or Vale of Glastonbury, backed hy bold heights, spreads wide beneath the eye. Enter cold -soiled common fields (five miles). VOL. II. H Beans 98 SOMERTON to SHIPTON MALLET. Beans a prevailing crop. The soil cold crumbling clay ; like that over the clay stone of the Vale of Glocester. Reach the point of the cold-soiled ridge ; and descend into the Vale of Glastonbury*. Cross the river Brue, at Lydford. A parcel of ill formed cows, mostly black. Cold Yale land — at present bare of herbage. The mile stones shamefully defaced ; but how easy to remedy the defect, ivith paint ! jSIarble stiles and fences common. Elm trees and pollards scattered over grass inclosurcs. Still a cold flat Yale District. The field? blue, with Devilsbit (ScahiosasuccisaJ. The grass inclosures intersected with sur- face drains. A very cold plot of country : weak and languid, even at this season of the year. Adapted to the cheese dairy, and the rearing ef cattle. Some lean cows : but of a better frame than the last. Many pollards in the iiedges. * This is a difficult passage of couptrx' to class. It is more than a f'allcy ; yet Wants something of the ^^ale character. However, below the part here crossed, it seems toiprcad wider,, and to acquire a variety of outline and diversity of surface. I denoniiuale it of Giaslonbur):, as it contains that ancient place. SOMERSETSHIRE. 99 A plot of woodland, well timbered : much of the land of this Vale is well adapted to oak timber. The hedgerows, at least, ought to be filled with it. The whole in a state of grass : no arable land is seen from the road. Another dairy of small ill formed cows. Haystacks in the field; as in the dairy Districts of Yorkshire. The land improves : still wholly in grass. A well soiled rising ground, in front ; en- tirely covered with grass. A large dairy of cows, of the middle- horned breed ; but not of the Devonshire variety. Haystacks capped, only, with thatch; as in the Yorkshire practice. Some roomy good cows: variously colored. Arrive at the foot of the hill ; the Vale being some three or four miles w^ide. The road across it is a straight line. The Roman road, between Bath and Ilchester. Another dairy of many-colored cows. Reach the upper stages of the steep ; — and enjoy the views: — extensive, rich, and pic- turable. Good grass land upon these hills ; and stocked with good cows. H 2 From too SOMERTON to SHIPTON MALLET. From the summit of the hill, an eutir circle of views is commanded : a wide sea of grass lands : the hills and the Vale being equally green. The subsoil, of this fertile upland, is lime- stone gravel, in thin layers, between loam. Some very good cows, on these hills. Another Vale opens to the left : a fine, strongly featured countr}\ A large Marsh or Sedgemore appears on the left. Obsene several sheet cons : are they na- tives of Somersetshire * ? Many good sheep, — of the Dorsetshire, or "W'est-of-England breed. They appear to be common to Dorsetshire, East Devonshire, and this part of Somersetshire. A rick frame loaded with straw, and thatched as a roof. ^Icet a load of Somersetshire '* reed :" dif- fering from that of Devonshire ; as having the ears cut otf ; and consisting of clean straight unbruised stems, only. • This sintnilar variety, which is observable in Grntlc- men's grounds, in different parts of the Island, is given by color, chiefly or wholly. A sheet cow resembles a Ted cow of North Devonshire, or West Somersetshire, with a^^hite sheet thrown over her barrel; her bead, neckj shoulders, and hind parts, being uncovered. SOMERSETSHIRE. loi Descend into another Valley of grass land : narrower, but better soiled, than the last. IMore limestone by the side of the road ; having thick strata of brown earth between the seams of stone ; which differs from the blue marble, aforenoticed. Instance of underdraining, with flat stones setup, in the form of the letter V, inverted. Ascend another range of grassland swells. Stone fence walls, on these uplands : the first, from the w^estward, in this line of road. Some, in courses of dry stones, alternately with other courses, laid in earth mortar. Instance of unbitten aftergrass ; the first observed, in this stage : — a dairy country. Good horned wedders, in these grass grounds. Leave a rich grassy hillock, to the right. The Valley of Shipton opens prettily: — rich grass land, beautifully surfaced; but somewhat disfigured with stone fences. SHIPTON AND ITS ENVIRONS. A SMALL Market Town ; situated near the head of a fine valley. The church stately, and in a good style of architecture. Several neat houses : a seat of the woolen manufacture. II 3 On 102 SHIPTON ANt) ITS EN\"IRONS. On the North side of the valley, are some bold hillocks (the Eastern extremity of the Mendip Hills), composed wholly of masses of limestone, covered with a rich deep soil. The rock remarkably strong : being very dif- ferent from the blue marble, before noticed : resembling, in general appearance, the stone of St. Vincent's rock, near Bristol. A lime kiln and large quarries; — seemingly of long standing. Ashen pollards scattered over these grass lands ; chiefly planted by the sides of stone walls : a practice I have elsewhere observed, on well soiled limestone lands. Some considerable dairies of good cows, in these environs. SHIPTON MALLET to FROME. (Twelve Miles.) SUNDAY, 21 SEPTEMBER, 170 i- CROSS the valley above the town : the water a mere rivulet. No appearance of mills of manufacture. A shameful road toll : and this where ma- terials are so abundant ! Pass a dairy of twenty or thirty good cows. SOMERSETSHIRE. . . 103 A large flock of sheep, on a thin-soiled hillock to the right. Rise another grassy swell: the soil redish; the subsoil limestone gravel. A foul wheat stubble ; and an attempt at turneps. Dairy men are generally bad arable farmers, ISIore large light-colored cows ; also a few calves : the first observed in this cow District ! More finch - backed, Glocestershire - like cows : with some mixed-breed heifers ; how little young stock appears. A wide view, to the right, backed by the broken heights of Stourhead. Still grass land and ashen pollards : with some stone fences ; but more thorn hedges. Pass some large dairy farms. A herd of good red West - of ■- England cows : a single instance. A limestone quarry: a strong redish rock: the soil over it red, and of good depth. Leave the limestone, grassland Country : and enter a weak-soiled arable District : the soil still red : in appearance, the same as that which covers the limestone rock. The soil still weaker : sandy and wet. A strongly featured country to the right ; about Stourton. H 4 A wide 104 SHIPTON MALLET to FROME. A wide Vale District opens in front : — the fertile District of Trowbridge; skreened, on the right, by the ^^"iltshi^e Downs ; and, on the left, by the distant hills of Glocester- shlre ; with the broad Yale Country of North A\'iltshire winding in between them ; the District of Trowbridge forming its Western extremity. Descend into another grassland dairy Dis- trict. Large mottled cows : somewhat of the short-horned appearance : a few of their horns shooting forward, and dipping at the points ! The Warminster Hills appear at hand. The subsoil, again, a limestone rubble. Good hawthorn hedges. Wheat already in a green, grassy state ! Tcave a woodland valley, to the right (six miles). More wheat, in West-of-England ridges. The towered height of Stourhead forms a prominent feature. Drop into a broken wooded Vale District; the head of the Valley of Frome. Grass land and dairy cows ; of the middle-horned breed, and the finch-backed variety. SOMERSETSHIRE. les Haystacks in the shape of inverted turneps, as in Cleveland. Round rodden cow cribs, as in Glocester- shire. A small orchard or two. Large dairy grounds, intermixed with arable inclosures, A flock of good Wiltshire ewes. Cross a sweetly wooded dell. The substra- tum, on the West side, red shattered rock ; on the East side, pale soft rubble ; distinct masses of materials. Village Buildings stone, pantiles, and thatch ; with some heavy stone-slates. Leave a large farmer}", on the right. A passage of fine grass land. Good stone road, between cropped hedges. Enter Frome : a large well built place ; in a fine situation. Several neat boxes, in its environs : the town likewise neat ; tho a manufacturing place : Leeds, without its coals and dirt. The Warminster and Long- leat Hills, are good objects from these en- virons. IFROM^ lo6 FROME TO DEVIZES. FROME TO DEVIZES. (Twenty Miles.) SUNDAY, 21 SEPTEMBER, l/Ql. MORE deep loam on limestone : with mixed cultivation : grass and arable. vStone walls, in the environs of Frome, as of Shipton : ugly, it is true ; but effectual against hedgebreakers. Both of them are towns of manufacture. A large dairy of longish-horned cows : ap- parently of a mixed breed. A rich, clean country (two miles). The name of the village, on a board, at the entrance of " Beckington :*' a Hberal act in those who placed it there. A large dairy of mixed cows. The road hedges legally kept. Field hay ricks still common. Three full-bred long-horned cows: the first. Deep cX'dyty subsoil (four miles). Single - wheeled plows, with winding wooden moldboards. A recent inclosure, from a state of com- mon. The land a deep loam. The quickset,s guarded with two lines of dead hcdgcwork. SOMERSETSHIRE,- 207 A flat, vet apparently dry countr}'. Enter WILTSHIRE. A cold flat vale passage. Farm houses — of timber and brick pannels; with weather-boarded barns; as in other Districts of the Southern Counties ! Rise a dryer, better-soiled swell of land : Stocked with large herds of cows. Fat cart horses, at grass (Sunday). A view of North AMltshire opens, in front. Long-horned Cows, and West-of-£ngland Oxen. Pass through Trowbridge ; a fair town, finely situated. ^lany good houses. The principal street is remarkably neat. Seated on a clean swell of rich land ; overlooking a sweetly wooded bason, backed by the Wilt- shire Hills. Catch a broad and extensive view of the WIDE Vale of North Wiltshire. The road hedges universally shorn. Instance of high grassland ridges, as in Glocestershire and North Wiltshire : the first observed in this journey. Some large orchard grounds. : •. Bad roads: soft hmestone is among the worst of road materials. Many hedgerow Elms. ..-: Single- to8 rROME TO DEVIZES. Single-wheel pl<^vrs in common use. Some very foul bad farming : and a large inclosure of rough anthilly land : left, in this wasteful state ; — as if to keep the arable lands in countenance. Gates, with four bars, and shouldered hartrces, common. Twenty well bred long-horned cows. A fine Vale District : rich tuaves of grass ]and (three miles from Trowbridge). More rich grass lands; stocked with long- HORNED cows : now apparently in full pos- session. Many hedgerow Elms: some of them large. A complete dairy country (three to four miles). A small goose and pig common : jiow much like many passages of the Vales of Glocestcrshire. A gooart of tliis morning's stroll ! The climature, even of the Vallies, is later than that of East Devonshire. Wheats are * Observed two dinner kettles boiling on the top of one of those kilns. If the nature of the fuel requires that the tire should burn outwardlv, this is a frugal practice. If not, it is an extravagant way of dressing dinner?. 1791- WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^SB 3. still green. On the Upper lands much grass is yet iinjiiown ! but evidently receiving great injury by standing. The produce is com, grass, heath, and piioduce. wood ; the tw^o latter covering, in this rude broken ride, much the larger proportion of surface. July i6. Rode to the skirts of the district. Dartmore Hills ; over Roborough Down, to IMavey, ^^^alkhampton, &c. *. Roborough Down, with the chain of rough Commons that reach from hence to near Plymouth, forming an oblong depressed swell, has every appearance of being a detached mass of the Dartmore Mountain ; from w^hich it is separated by an irregular Valley, con- taining three or four townships of cultivated land. Some of this land is of a very su- perior quality; one considerable plot of it letting * In company with Mr. Stapleton, of Monks' BucKLAKD : a man to whose superior intelligence I owe much : a man who, with fourscore years of experience, possesses an activity of body and mind, which many men^i of half his years, would be happy to enjoy. K4 136 MINUTES, July 4. SOIL. SHEEP, CATTLE. PLOW TEA^f. NAMES OP HUNDREDS. letting at forty or fifty shillings an acre, in this bleak and humid climate, and in this re- mote situation. The more central parts of this Valley now contain some fine crops of wheat, and much tolerable barley. But the soil grows weaker, and less productive, as the Hills of Dartmore are approached. The Sheep on the skirts of the hills are mostly polled ; but some individuals are horn- ed : they are very uneven as to carcase : some of them, nevertheless, are not in a bad form. The Cattle, seen in this morning's ride, are every where clean, and mostly of good frame. Chiefly of a dark-red color ; a few of them with white Glocestershire spines. The size that of Glocestershire, and West Sussex. The Plow Team is chiefly Oxen. Saw six good ones in a Team, in light work ; yet did not perform, even that, with due effect. One of the pairs, with a proper plow, in good hands, would make much better work. It may be remarked, that the hundred, or subdivision of the County, which includes a considerable part of the District of West X79I- WEST DEVONSHIRE. Devonshire, takes its name, or is understood to have taken its name, from the Common which I crossed and repassed, this morning; or from some Town or Village \\-hich gave name to the Common ; and of which there are at present no traces *. In this stroll, I crossed repeatedly the ar- tificial BROOK, which waters the Town of Plymouth, and which is taken out of a small river, in one of the marginal Vallies of Dart- more. It is a treasure, not only to Plymouth, but to the long range of dry uplands, through which it passes. This great work owes its valuable existence to the genius and enter- prise * This corresponds with the tradition of East Devon- shire. (See page 33.) It is probable, however, that the Down, at least, received its name from an extraordi- nary pile of rock, or large stones, called " Rooburrow Rock," which forms a striking object, on the face of these wild lands : bearing strict resemblance to the Tors of the Mountains. In the provincial dialect of the Dis- trict, Roo is still commonly used for rough ; and Burrow is the-ordinary name of a Ae^p, whether of earth or stones (a combination which is still strictly preserved in pro- nunciation). Under this rough pile of rocks, the huts of the first settlers may have been raised 3 or Druidical Assemblies have been held. The etymons of the names of Hundreds, or divi- sions OP Counties, are most difficult; and the An ti- t till noon. t79i. "WEST DEVONSHIRE. 6. July 29. Hitherto, I have been looking pRelimina round me, and ascertaining facts. 1 . I have traversed the Country, for a few miles on every side, and have gained a gene- ral idea of its outline of management. 2. I have studied a map of this noble Farm ; traced its outlines ; and examined, repeatedly, every field and parcel of it. 3. I have ascertained its present produce, or state of occupancy, by analysing, classing, and reuniting its various parts : thus bringing ■into one view the exact quantity of Culturable lands, Orchard grounds. Planted groves. Natural woodlands. Hedges, lanes, &c. &c. &c. 4. I have tabled, in columns, the succes- sion, or state of occupancy of each individual field in cultivation, — during the last four YEARS. 5. In the margin of this table, I have noted the species and quantity of manure which each field has received, during that period ; theterm of the ministry of thepresent *'Hine." e. I MINUTES. JtTtr 0. C. I have registered the arrangement, tabled the crops and fallows, of the present YEAR ; so as to show, Jirsf, the number, name, size, and crop of each field ; arranged geographically according to their respective natural situations in the farm : secondly y the fields, arranged agreeably to their respective crops ; thus coming at the aggregate quantity of each; and, thirdly, the totals of these ag- gregates, to prove the trutli of the analysis *. y. A table of the livestock, now on the farm. 8. The quantity of manure in store. 9. The implements, &:c. at present in use. 1 0. The workpeople now employed. Until these particulars be ascertained, and spread out before the eye, so as to be referred to, in the most extemporan.' way, no man should presume to give orders, or suggest improvements, in husbandry, xsor, then, until he has considered well The genius of the Country ; and The locality of the given farm, as to markets, water carriage, «S:c. &:c. ; also • This nitrihoJ I struck oijt during mv practice in Surrey (>oe Minutes of AGiicn-TURE is Surrey), and have invariably foilovied it, in the different parts of the I>land, ';n which I have practUcd. i79r. WEST DEVONSHIRE. Its natural characteristics, or fitness for corn or grass, dairying or grazing, &c. &:c. taken collectively as a farm ; as well as The aspect, soil, substrata, and state of tillage, of its several parts. But, having duly informed himself in these requisites; and having assiduously caught, and preserv-ed, the hints for improvement, with which first impressions may have fur- nished him, any man, having previously an adequate knowledge of the general subject, both in theory and practice, may venture to begin with cautious step, to enter upon its improvement: being however, even then, careful not to derange the established machine of management ; until one which is prefer^ able be ready to replace it : beginning with its more glaring improprieties and defects, as they occur fairly in the course of manage- ment ; at once, to save unnecessary expence, and to prevent unnecessary alarm. G. 7< July 29. The lands of this farm are evi- dently much out of tilth. The young leys are overrun with fern, and those of three or four years old are bare of grass. But no 4 wonder ; TILLAGE. .NHNUTES. JwLT wonder ; they have been mostly leyed, I find, agreeably to the custom of the Countiy-, after three successive crops of grain ; for which not more than three or four plowings are usually given ! Indeed, were more to be assigned them, the Flow of the Country would be inadequate to the task of cleaning them. It is the worst Swing Plow I have seen. The beam short and clumsv, and the body long and ill formed, without a rise or wTest, to force open the furrow ; tlie moldboard being set high above the keel, soal or sill of the Plow ; which operates in loose ground, as the Kentish Tuni wrest Plow; making a rut only, not opening a furrow *. A foul piece of ground, intended for Wlieat, but which I wish to cleanse tho- roughly, for Barley, the ensuing Spring, by way of making a beginning in the great work of purgation, I sawtantaUzed by this ineiTec- tive implement. * The Devonship.e Plow resembles much in general appearance, the Plow of the Herald and the Sign Painter: A circumstantial evidence, that it has heretofore been prevalent in the Kingdom ; or that the Heraldic Figures of this Countn.-, and the Plow of Devonshire, are equally of N^jrman or Arraorican extraction. 179'. WEST DEVONSHIRE. u However, by fixing a wrest in the usual /. place, below the moldboard (the work of a improve- •.. , , . 1 — J MENT OF tew minutes), it cleared its way, and ettected plows. more, in going once over the ground, than the same Implement, without this simple ad- dition, would have done in passing over it al- most ahy number of times ; and this without vexing the Plowman, or alarming the Coun- try, with " a new-fashioned Plow." Being desirous, however, to get the Im- plement into a better form, and to adapt it to two Oxen or two Horses, I have embraced an incident, to gain a pretence for construct- ing a Plow, suitable to that purpose. A small plot of ground, which is so much en- cumbered with trees, that a team cannot work in it, and which has in consequence been '* hand beaten" and '* hacked over," to free it from the foul state in which it has long lain, was nevertheless capable of being ptowed, with a small Plow, and a single Horse. In constructing this little Implement, I suffered the Plow-wright to pursue his own lieaten track, with respt^ct to principal pieces • and general construction ; deviating chiefly in the proportion of the opei^aiive parts;' making the beam proportionally longer, and VOL. II. L the tib MINUTLS. Jllt IV7ROVL- MtKT Of Of [MPROVE- MEST. the body of the Plow shorter, than in the Flow ot the Country : adding, however, a wrest, and endeavoring to give the mold- board the proper cast. It tully answers. the intended piarpobc ; and bids tair to supersede the jntroductioo of the Yorkshire Plow, for twp Oxen.or Horses. It has, indeed,- one main ad\:antage over any alien Plow ; it i* set to work and regulated, a* the ordinary Plow of the Country; is indeed a Devonshire Zule; and a5 such it is held. Seeing tliis, it strikes me, that a similar kmd of success may be obtained, in any Dis- trict, by adopting the general construction of the fashionable Plow of the Counir}', whe- ther it be the Wheel, the Foot, or the Swing Plow ; only altering the proportions, and giving the operative parts the requiste cast. Jioie 1705. Men, who have never at- tempted to introduce improvements in Agri- culture, may consider these sacriticcs, to the. prejudices of established customs, unnecessary^ :yid trifling ; but those wlio have had expe- rience, in this- nice matter, will see their I' .;♦ WEIR. i7gK WEST DEVONSHIRE. U7 8. 8. July 31. The Salmon fishery of the saimon Tavey is appendant to this estate. The Weir, which has been mentioned, is a work of con- siderable magnitude and expence. It con- sists of a strong dam or breastwork, ten or twelve fcQt high, thrown across the river, in a part where two projecting rocks serve hap- pily as buttresses to the masonr}' ; which is built somewhat compassing or archwise (but not regularly nor sufficiently), to resist the pressure and force of the waters, in times of floods ; when they are collected, by the slopes of the Dartmore Hills, and sent down with extraordinary impetuosity. At one end of the dam, is a "weir house" or trap; on the principle of the Vermin trap, whose entrance is outwardly large, but contracted inv>'ardly, so as to prevent the escape of the animal which has taken it. It is remarkable, how- ever, with respect to salmon, that altho the entrance is by no means so narrow as to pre- vent even the largest from returning, it is believed that there is no instance of those which have once entered quitting their con- finement, tho they may have remained in it I- 2 se%-eral r'o U5 MIXUTES. JuiT 8. several d^ivs : a circumstance, perhaps, SALM^K which can only be a(^counted for, in the na- tural propensity, or instinct, which directs them agtairi^t the stream, and v.ill not suffer them to ghc up any advantage that thev may have gained ; the ascent into the trap being an elfbrt of difficulty : in this case p^haps too great. On the higher side of the trap Ywhich is some twelve or fifteen feet square on the in- fide), opposite to the entrance, is an opening or sluice in the stone work, — or rather the rock, — as a passage for the water. This opening has two hfting floodgates : the one close, to shut out, occaBionally, the whole of the water ; the other a grate, to suffer it to pass partially through the trap ; and, at tlie sarae time, to pre\'ent fish of any con- siderable size from passing upward. A\'hen the trap is set, the close gate is raised up, with an iron crow : thus suffx^ring the water to pass through the weir house. On the contrary', to take the hsh which have enter- ed, the close gate is let down, and the trap i? presently left in a manner dry. ft is ohser\'ab!e, that the narrowed en-_ -trance x)f tiie trap is judiciously placed, some- what above the floor; so tliat before the sal- I79I. WEST DEVONSHIRE. ! mon are much alarmed by the fall of the 8. water, it has sunk below the mouth of the ^^r^^^ trap, and their retreat the more effectually cut off; for by following the water, near the floor, they are led away beneath the tun- nel : which, hke the open floodgate, &c. is made of strong wooden bars, open enough to permit the passage of the water, but not that of the fish. The top or covering of the trap is a floor of planks, nearly level with the top of the weir ; on the lower side of which the trap is, of course, situated. Some days ago, when the water was un- usually lov/ — provincially and not improperly '' small" — the whole river passed through the weir house. But the recent rains have sw^oln it to a tenfold size. The water now pours over the weir, in a dense, broad sheet ; smooth, and glassy above ; but furrowing as it descends ; and producing, in its fall, a white foaming whirlpool ; the regularity of the fall being broken, on oac side, by the torrent, rushing down the steep descent from the sluice, and, on the other, by the margin of the river, bursting its way over the native rock, — a pleasing objegt is produced ; while tlje extreme reckiseness of the situation, — L 3 the ISO MINUTES. Jlly 8. SALMON WEIIU RUTR FISH. ^•ET FISrilKG. the wild coppice wood on the one hand, and the high-grown impending timber on the other, — add to the picturable effect of the scene : which, in a mild evening after rain, is still heightened, and rendered more inte- resting, by the animating and beautiful ac- companiment of salmon, displaying feats of futile agilitv ; — throwing themselves far out of the water, in endeavoring to surmount the cataract ; or struggling, with more fatal zeal, to reach the treacherous hold, from whence there is no return. The species of fish taken at this weir are salmon, salmon peel — provincially " pail,** and, at some certain seasons, a few trouts, mullets, &c. But the principal part of the produce of this fisherv is taken bv net fishing. The river, for near a mile below the weir, i? broken into rapids and pools, some of them very deep. Seven or eiglit of these pools are adapted to the seine or draw net, which is drawn once, or twice a day, by four men: with horses to carry the net, and the fish caught ; and v ith a dog to convey the end of the rope across the water, where it is too deep or inconvenient to be forded. Th© fishing season commences, in this river ,791. WEST DEVONSHIRE. *5« (the Tavey), the latter end of February or 8. early in IVIarch, (but on tlie Tamer not until net several weeks afterward !) and closes in Oc- tober or November; when the weir is thrown open, and the iisli, afterward, suffered to go up to the spawning grounds *. Presently after a flood, and when salmon are abundant, icn or twelve are frequently taken at a draught ; sometimes more ; up- wards of a hundred, it is said, w^cre once drawn to shore \. No * 1804. It has been the iong-established custom of this fishery to throw the weir open, at a certain season, without regard to the state of the river : a practice that is erroneous. For the fi»h which pass upward, while the river is low, and of course when they are exposed in shallow clear water, are most of them destroyed by the country people, who lie in wait for them. And it has been observed that the forward fish, which arc stopt by the weir, spawn in the tails of the pools below it. A fresh rule has therefore lately hckn made; namely, — to desist from fishing at the usual time, but not to open the weir, until a considerable flood of colored water will allow them to pas-; up, quickly and safely, to their spawning grounds ; and, generally, to throw open the weir during the first autumnal flood; allho it may happen somewhat before the usual time of clo^^ing the fishing season. A regulation which,, I conceive, pii^y -be.weJI adopted in other salmor^-weir fisheries, lujder similar circumstances. " t 1804. But inls/Tike most other sjimibnnsherits, in L 4 the POACH .-lis. 152 MINOTBS. JuLT ?• No wonder that a tishen" thus productive, ar»d King at a distance from any habitation, shoiJd be hable to the dtpreduiions of poACKERS : especiaUy as the river f but one horse were employed. This, the third day, the horses are become tractai)le ; and the plowman is guiding and driving them himself: making, with two sorry rips, and the light plow above descri- bed, as good work, as six oxen are makings in the same field, and the same work, w ith the clumsy tool of the Country.. In future, — let two plowmen assist in the introduction of whip reins, holding and driving alternately : thus, while tlie horses will be rendered manageable, the plowmen wiJl be learning the use of the reins. 12. A great defect and inconve- August 8. niency of the mound coppice fences of this District, I see, is their being liable to be torn down by stock, whetlicr cattle or sheep, hedg-e:s: 179T. WEST- £)EVONSHIRE. scraping away the base of the mouW5|?and letting down the sides, perhaps iii •' ^cfe com^E' shoots. The soil thus shot down is a step -to greater mischief; and, if not stopf,' a pas- sa it is called, — namely^ the new Town which has been built, adjoining to, and as an appendage of, his Majest;.i's dock yard, and which is now nearly equal in size to the old Town of Plymouth, has remained waterless ! has had no ample supply of run- ning fresh water, until very lately ! For, through that kind of stubborn pervcrseness, or irrational waywardness, to which " rational beings" are liable, the inhabitants of the two places could not agree amono; themselves to enlarge the original stream, sufficietulv, to supply both ; • — an undertaking; which mieht have been efi'ccted at a small cxpence, — comparatively with that of brincine; a fresh supply, by a new channel ; — not from a clear brook> at the foot of Dartmorc, but from amono; the brown astringent peat bogs upon the niour.tain ! — which the good people of Dock have aclu;iilv done! — the two streams keeping company for twelve or fifteen miles I — sometimes approaching within a few yards ; — as if to babble to each other about tlie follies of Plymouth and Dock. The M 2 MINU'ILS. August the mill stream, or from the stream work ot the miner (see Vol. I. p. 314), or was eli- cited by the active and inventive mind of the projector, — its utility is great: not only in supplying a populous town with good water, but in watering a chain of uplands, fifteen or twenty miles in extent. The gratification ex- perienced in falling in, abruptly, as frequently happens, with so ample a stream, in places where such an object is the least expected, yet where it is most wanted, is of a singular and superior kind. How many situations in this Island, want- ing such relief, might have it in a similar way ! Where a sufficient quantitv of water can be had at the source, much of the cost might be repaid, by letting off branches, to the adjacent countrv. Upon Roborough Down, a riil is taken out of the Plymouth Brook, for tlie use of a Gentleman, who lives some two miles otT, close by the banks of the Tamer ! This rill not only s"iipplics his house, but furnishes water to pasturing stock, in its way. i iiC ** Dock Leat" wa5 begun, I Ui.ak, m 1-95, and received i deTtc of nni>h, I believe, in 179S. rgi- WEST DEVONSHIRE. i6s In this case, the quantity of water is accu- rately regulated, by a perforated stone, set on-edge, in a sort of stone trough ; the aperture is circular, and about three and a half inches diameter : furnisliing a sufficient supply, if frugal!}' managed, for a hamlet or village. But the ancient rights of water mills are bars to improvements of this nature, as well as to the watering of lands : rights, however, which might, noir, be ahenated without ex- cessive inconvenience to the communit^' ; windmills and steam engines rendering them no longer necessary ; tho, in some situations, a few may still be useful. 1804. For farther remarks on this sub- ject, see Treatise on Landed Property, Art. Made Streams. MADE BROOKS. 14, August 12. Rode to Plymptox, in the South Hams of Devonshire. The scenery about Plymbridge is sweetly disirict. recluse ; forming a happy contrast to the open view from Lord Boringdon's arches ; from whence Plymouth Sound and Harbor, M 3 with (66 MINUTES. August 14. OISTRICT. FLY^TPTON FAIR. PLYMPTCy. "wdth the interesting scenen* which sur- rounds them, are seen immediiitelv under the eye. A broad view of the South Hams is also commanded trom this proud point. The Country immediately below it, about Ridgeway and the Plymptons, is peculiarly broken ; yet most of it well soiled. A Fair, of some repute, led me toPlymp- ton, this morning. But it fell short of my expectation. About a hundred and filty head of cattle, chiefly cows and calves ; \^•ith a few half- fat oxen, and less than half- fat cows. Also a few pens of sheep ; mostly poor thin-carcased animals. Altogether a mean collection. The Borough of Plympton is most enviably situated. The cli mature mild, almost, as that of the South of Europe. The scenery around it delightful ; and the soil of a supe- rior quality ; yet, in its nature, dry and clean. Provisions of every kind abundant and cheap. The Town, or ratlier large genteel Village, is itself neat ; its inhabitants respectable ; and it is situated near a great public road, with- out being incommoded by it. I79i< WEST DEVONSHIRE. 16; I 5 August 12. (See Mix. 12.) Some older prunikg ^ ' ^ HEDGtS. hedges, on the sides of hanest roads, whose boughs were grown too large, and reached too high, to be cut from the ground, I have had " pared" in the following manner. Put two oxen to a waggon, and two men into it, with hooks of ditferent lengths ; placing the waggon close to the hedgebank. In this situation, the men were level with their work; cutting out the larger boughs, with common hedge bills, and striking off the spray, v^'ith lighter tools ; the waggon proceeding with the work. In this way, the tv»-o men cleared, in the course of yesterdav afternoon, not less than a hundred rods, sufficiently to prevent the corn from being thrashed out, or torn off the harvest waggons, by the outhanging boughs. A dispatch which could not have been ob- tained in any other manner. Even in the training of younger hedges (of this Country), a waggon might be employed with advantage : — in all cases, first striking M 4 olF, MINUTES. August otf, or laying down, in the manner described aforegoing, the brushwood which grows on the side of the mound. 6. August 13. Clearing abable lands FROM STOXEs. The soils of this "District are much incommoded with stones of diiFerent kinds ; but chieiiy with the slate rock, of which the Country may be said to be formed ; and a species of quartz — provincially ' ' whit- aker" — which is frequently met with in large blocks, either entire, or partially incorporated with the slate rock. A field, now under fallow, — which has long been noted for zule-breaking, I am clearing in this vvay. The plowman carries, in the body of his plow, a parcel of small rods ; and, wliere he finds a stone, sets up one of his marking sticks. Two men follow, with shovels, mattocks, and crows ; raising the stones; and baring the 7^ocks, to be raised, at leisure, by men accustomed to quarry \^'ork. Thus, at a comparatively trilling ex- pence, the land is freed, plow-furrow deep, for ever, from obstructions : not only of the 1791. WEST DEVONSHIRE. plow, but of harrows ; which would now be seen riding upon flat stones, from one end of the field to the other, were not a person employed to follow, and release them from so aukward and unprofitable a situation : leaving, however, the stones upon the land ; lest this part of his employment should be w^ntino^, in future. 169 16. RECLAIM- ING STONY LAND. 17 August 27. Clearing foul lands. (See MiN. 7.) This and another piece, still fouler, and in a worse state of tillage, I have treat- ed, and intend to treat, in the following manner. About a month ago, one of these fields, then in a state of loose broken ground, was laid up into narrow ribs (the gardener's trenches) by a half plowing ; with a wrested plow, and with the stern set ten inches wide; forcing up the ridgets, as high and sharp as possible; in order to destroy the root weeds, by drought, and by breaking their field of pasturage ; and to give the seeds of weeds an addition of air and surface to promote their vegetation. About RECLAIM. ING LAND FROM WEEDS. 170 MINUTES. August ' RECLATM- 1 ING LAMX TILLAGE. MANURING. FALLOWING. About a week ago, the first-plowed part was harrowed across the ribs, with long- lined harrows ; — ^leveUiiig the surface completelv, and following them with a roller and finer liarrows, hung behind it: thus grinding down CTery clod, and efiectually destroying every seedling weed which had vegetated. llie surface is now thickly set with anp- ther crop of seedling weeds, — which I am turning under by one deep plowing, across tlie former ribs, and in narrow phts, but with a BROAD SHARE, and with a stern TWELVE LN'CHEs WIDE; thus moving every particle of the soil, about ten inches deep (some inches deeper, perhaps, than it has ever been plowed before), leading the surface rough and cloddv. Over this rough surface, I am spreading a moderate manuring of yard dung ; to be dragged, rolled, and harrowed, until the dung be etfectually incorporated, with the tresh raw soil, brought up ; thereby to meliorate it, and to force the seeds of weeds, with which it has, no doubt, been amply supplied, ccnturv after centurv. The weed seeds having spent themselves and the crude soil having received the influr encc of the atmosphere, the manure will be I79I. WEST DEVONSHIRE. turned in, with a mean-depth or somewhat sh^illow plowing ; and the surface be suffered to remain in the rough state, in which the plow leaves it, during winter. In the spring, as soon as the clods have thrown out their seedling weeds, and the vv-eathcr will permit, the surface will be ground down to powder, to induce the re- mainder to vegetate ; and, in due season, the lands so purified will be sown with barley and ley herbage. Thus, for the loss of o^^e yeap/s rext, these fields will probably be benefited for twenty years to come. 1 7g4. The success has answered the fullest expectation. The field which was managed more immediately under my own eye, is, I am of opinion, five pomids an acre better for the operation; reckoning on twenty years, from the time of performing it. It is observable, that, in every case where circumstances will allow it, an EIGHTEEN MONTHS FALLOW should be broken up, in autumn, or early winter, by a rib plow- ing ; suffering it to lie, in an exposed state, during winter. This, besides employing the winter s frosts in the great work of purifica- tion, forwards the business of the ensuing summer. 171 17. FALLOWING. EIGHTEEN MONTHS FALL0V7. MINUTES. August 17. summer, and renders the whole operation a matter of leisure and conveniencv ; and, in the end, COMPLETE: putting the soil in its most profitable state of exertion, for a length of years. Under proper management, andwiththeassistanceofpALLOwcROPsJ^nds, THUS EFFECTUALLY RECLALMED, may not require a repetition of the operation for half a century al'terw ards. 18. August 23. A field of twenty four acres was sowing with Turneps, wlien I arrived here ; — with too little tillage, too httle seed, and some of it with dung much too long ; the harrows having drawn the seed into stripes and bunches. The consequence is, the crop is irregular, and the few plants which appear are nearly suttocated in wild Mustard, and other wcciis. Some light hoes were ordered to be made, from old sithe blades ; and six of them placed in the hands of women, who had never hoed, and one into the haiids of a man, who had. The directions, in going the firirt time over TURNEPS. 1791. WEST DEVONSHmE. 173 the ground, were, to thin the clusters or 18. bunches, and to check the weeds ; without hoixg attempting to set the Tumep plants out, singly, or at full distances ; and even, in do- ing this, to proceed slowly at the outset. Hitherto, they have performed this work better than was expected. Indeed, by ad- hering to the rules, here laid down, Turnep hoers \\ ill spontaneously grow out of them. By setting otF slowly, and not attempting too great nicety, at first, the employment becomes pleasurable, and the eye and the hands are imperceptibly taught the art : es- pecially if the greater errors which arise be, from time to time, pointed out, by one who is conversant in the operation. They have now begun to go over the first- sown part, a second time ; setting out the plants singly, and at due distances ; namely, ten to twelve inches apart (the hoes being eight inches long) ; except where two plants stand near each other, in a vacant space ; in which case, both plants are permitted to stand*. HoingTurneps, with eight inch hoes, made from * For more particular remark? and directions, respect- ing this opcr.ition, see MiD. Co. Mi\. 6, and St. 4 »74 MINUTES. August 18. from sithe blades, is moderate work for wo- men (such hoes are light and pass freely through the soil) ; and, by proceeding on the principles here adopted (and letting them go over the ground, again and again, until tbcj reach a degree of perfection), any woman, "with an eye and hands, may be soon taught the art : will, in one whole season, become a sufficient Tumep hoer *. How ehgible, in Countries \n here women are not employed in reaping, to teach them the use of the Tumep hoe. What avails the slowness of their work, the first season, com- pared with the introduction of so valuable a practice : especially to a large occupier ; and, still more, to a man of large estate. 19. September 1. It is customary, here, to shoe working oxen ; altho they are rarely employed upon the road. The stoniness of * I have likewise found these ligbt hoes, in the hands of women, of great use in hoing fallows; where weeds were running up to seed, before the plow could reach them : a practice whch cannot be too strongly recommended. See Glocestekshibe, Vol. II. p. 45, on IIoifiG Fallows. ii79r. WEST DEVONSHIRE. 17S the soils, and rocldness of the lanes and drift- IQ. wavs, iw^v have ffiven rise to the practice. shoeing " • *^ OXEN. In the form of the shoes, or the method of setting them on, I see little that is new. A few particulars of practice, nevertheless, require to be noticed. Having been cast, or thrown, and his legs bound together, in the usual manner, the animal is forced nearly upon his back, and his feet hoisted up to a convenient heisiht, bv means of a forked pole, some live feet long; the fork taking the bandage which binds the feet, the other end being fixed firmlj in the sward, upon which they are usually thrown. This simple contrivance gives great firmness, steadiness, and conveniency to the operation. That the individuals may be the more con- A^eniently laid hold of, and trammelled, the team are driven to the place of shoeing, in their yokes, and hung together with chains, the hindmost chain being fastened to a large root, or stool, in the hedge ; by the side of which they are usually placed ; in order to prevent their running off, on seeing one of their companions thrown down and roughly treated, in their sight, — immediately under their eyes ! Today, the remaining three of a team of six. • MINUTES, Sept, 19. six, shoeing in this extraordinar}^ way, being EixG alarmed and rendered savage, by seeing the savage treatment of their, comrades, broke from their hold ; ran off; the pair throwing down the single ox encumbered by his yoke; — dragged him ; — broke otFone of his horns, with its core close to his head ; cut the sinew of his fore leg, almost through, with one of the hooks; and have thus entirely spoiled him. Some means of facilitating the shoeing of oxen are much to be desired. I am of opi- nion that were rearing calves, w Inch are in- tended for w^ork, accustomed to have their feet taken up, and their hoofs beaten with a hammer ; and were a repetition of this prac- tice to take place, in the winter season, when the steers are in the yards, or in stalls, they might afterwards be shod as horses. A\'orking cattle should also be accustomed, from their earliest age, to be driven and led about, singly ; should be v.-holly reclaimed from a state of wildness ; as w'orking horses are. The ox, under kind and generous treat- ment, is easily familiarized, and rendered docile. 1791. WEST DEVONSHIRE. m 20. October 25. Before I left Buckland, in the beginning of last month, I digested the ideas which I had collected, respecting the present state and improvement of its fine demesne. Many of those ideas related, of course, to private concerns ; many of them appear, in the foregoing Digest, of the prac- tice of the District at large ; and others, in the preceding Minutes^ Some fevv^ of them, however, have not yet been introduced into this work ; and these are inserted, here. For what applies to the Barton of Buckland is more or less applicable to the surrounding Country. 20. IMPROVE- MENTS SUGOfiSTED. This, in soil and surface, is properly a objects oy ' ^ ' r r y HUSBan- SHEEP FARM. Shccp, Turncps, Barley, tern- dry. porary Leys, and Wheat, ought certainly to be considered as primary objects. The DAIRY seems to stand second ; as being, un- der proper management, in this situation, profitable in itself; and as a-source of work- ing cattle. But no part of it appears to be well adapted to the grazing of caitle, which presents itself as a subordinate object ; VOL. II. N to 178 MIKUTES. Ocr. «»0. to be confined merely to the aged cows and oxen, which the farm itself throws otF. A OBJiCTS OF W DRY BAN- main object, on manv accounts, is to keep the manager at home. Hence, adopt a course of tillage, suitable to the soil and situation ; with livestock adapted, in species and pro- portion, to the crops : adhering as closely to this outline of management, as seasons and circumstances will permit. Under these re- gulations, the Hine will have little to take off his attention from the interior operations of the farm ; except the disposal of its im- mediate produce. He will have no riding about the Country to buy stock, nor any tritling away of his time, in selling them. Farming and jobbing can seldom be united, with profit : even by a principal ; much less by an agent. 1 804. To simplify, as much as possible, the management of this charming demesne, (most unfortunate with respect to acting managers!) the dairy has been lessened, and SHEEP FARMING cncrcascd. And the arable lands having been exhausted, by im- proper treatment, and the use of an impro- per manure (see Minute Go), the quan- ' titv of coRT^ LAND has also been dirainLshed r lio more ground being now kept in tillage, tjgu WEST DEVONSHIRE. .-179 than is necessary to renovate the ley grounds, 20. and raise winter and spring food for the sheep, obiects op Moreover, to enrich, and thereby to prolong t)Rv* ' the productiveness of the older ley grounds that are tolerably clean, folding sheep on GRASS LAXD IS practised* See Minute Gl. This plan of management has of course been adopted, not with a view to present PROFIT, but to the PERMANENT IMPROVEMENT of the farm ; — by consuming as much of its vegetable produce, as possible, w^ithin its own pale ; and by bringing on whatever en- riching manures can be procured : — thus re- cruiting the exhausted lands ; and laying up in them the means of productiveness ; which may, at any time, be commanded. Some RIVER BREAKS are wanted to defend river 1 1 1 1 o -1 BREAKS. the meadow lands, btones, not timber, ap- pear to be the proper materials for these Breaks. Hitherto, piles and planks have been used, to confine the rapid Tavey within its channel ; much valuable timber having been used, from time to time, in " weiring;'* while the bed of the river is strowed with stones, fit for this pur])ose. 1/04. I have had one constructed, as a specimen, in the most ditficuit situation ; — N 2 immediately -vnfo MIXUTES. Oct. meAks.* ®0- inimc(iu}telY ih front of the Salir.on \\"eir, and ^^^TR"*^ 'ivit-hui tlie rfach of its whirlpool, in times ot tioods; at one fourth of the expence which a timber guard would have cost. It is built with diy stones, collected from the river bed. The permanency. of this loose stonework depends, entirely, on the prhiciple of con- struction. 1 he face of the Break is every war bulging towards the force of the current ; which acts upon it as superincumbent weight on an arch. The base line, son:ie fifteen or twenty yards long, is the segment of a circle, with its outer or convex side to the water. The wall, from four or five, to two or three feet high, is carried up battering, or leaning, verj' considerably, from the stream ; not with a straight Une, but somewhat convex, and rounding ott' at the top, — until it forms nearly a horizontal paving. The stones are laid, with their larger ends inward ; and not horizon- tally, but dipping, in such a manner, as to lie square with the face of the wall ; which is thus placed in the posture ot falling to- wards the bank of earth, that was rammed -in lirmly behind, as the wall was carried up. The whole to be filled in, level with the ad- joining meadow ; tliick turt' being firmly laid in continuation of the pavement; that the BREAKS. 1 79 1. WEST t)EVONSHIRE. iSf ^ water, when it overflows the meadow, may 20. pass smoothly over the break, and therebypre- river vent the adjoining sward from being torn up, by a disturbed current. A violent tlood displaced some of the up- permost stones, for want of the ground being filled up, and properly finished, behind tliem ; and the eddy of the Weir pool scooped away part of the gravel from the foundation, so as to endanger it; until large stones were thrown against it, for its defence. AVhere there is a proper choice of stones ; and if the top and foundation be from time to time attended to ; a river Break, built on. these principles, may endure for a length of years. 180 1. This River Break or Land Guard- has now been completed, several years, and continues to answer, with very little care or attention, every purpose that could be- ex- pected from it. In places where Vhe worn banks of the river are high, and the watbr at^ their feet is deep, loose stones have'b^eri ^ot^ do\\'n, from above, and with similai* effect^'' For GENERAL REMARKS ou this subject see Treatise on Landed Property. I MINUTES. Oct- -0. The present dairy cows, some few except- ed, accord ill w ith the Barton of Buckland ; \\ hich is entitled, in ever}' point of view, to the linest breeds of livestock the Island at present possesses. The degenerate breed, now upon it, are unproli table, even as dairy stockj^ and are altogether unfit, as molds for working oxen ; the breeding of which ought to be a principal object in keeping them. Some of the oxen, the descendants of the old stock of the farm, or which have been pur- cliased, are almost unexceptionable : their size being their principal deficiency. The present degeneracy of the cattle appears to have arisen out of a wrong principle of ma- nagement; namely, that of selling everything inclined to fatness, so as to fetch money ; and buying in anything for cheapness, with- out regard to spccihc quality *. The Salmon Fishery, at present, is a nursery of poachers ; owing not so much to the remoteness of its situation, with respect to the house, as to the skreens of wood, which now rise on either side of the river ; • This error in praciic* has been mentioned before j ^t it \% of BO treacherous and mischievous a nature (when breeding is carried on for the general purposes of jrsttle), it cannot be too often reprcbatcd. 179'' WEST DEVONSHIRE. 183 and hide them, in a great measure, from de- 20. tection. Under its present management, it salmon FISHERY is an object worth their attending to, and of course draws them off from honest, bnt less protitable, employments. The most eligible course to be taken appears to be that of throwing difficulties in theii: way ; so as to make it not worth their attention. To at- tempt to prevent them by force, especially while the mines remain open, would evi- dently be imprudent. Perhaps, the men who are employed in drawing the net, should be paid, not by the tide, or the number of times they draw it, but by the number, or weight, of the iish caught : thus uniting their own interest with that of their employer. Even night fishing might, by this means, be considei:ably check- ed ; not so much by keeping w^atch, as by every pool being fished carefully^ before the night came on. Now, if the net lj)p \yetted, their hire is due. ..j.i >n>mtii :..!t Ox perhaps destroy the net fishing altog^^ ther; by placing obstructions in the pools; and depend solely on the Weir: which, if properly regulated and duly attended, wonld perhaps receive all the fish which enters the river ; or, in much probability, a greater nuiil- ' N 4 ' ber MINUTES. Oct. 20". ber than are now legallv taken, bj the weir MOM and nets jointlv. Givinjr a weir man a fixed proportion of the produce, — for his attend- ance during the fishing season, — for seeing that the pools were kept guarded to prevent net fishing, — for keepingdown the skreens, — and for attending daily and hourly, during dead water, to prevent spearing, — would, in this case, be requisite. At present, the Fishery is either neglected, or it interferes, unprofitably, with the ordi- nary business of the Farm. On whatever principle a Fishery of this kind is conducted, the persons employed in it ought to be rewarded, in proportion to the quantity taken ; especially \^■hen they are not immediatelv under th^ eye of their employer. . 1804. The first regulation which took place, for relieving the Farm from the en- cumbrance of this Fishery, whose productive- ness has much decreased of late years, was that of appointing keepers of the river and fishermen, with salaries, and a percentage on the profits of the season. And, latterly, the fijsh continuing to decrease, the profits have been equally divided, betweefi the pro- prietor and the fishers : — the form*.': keeping the weir and its trap in repair ; the latter find- ing nets. X79i< WEST DEVONSHIRE. i«5 21. October 30. Rode to Milton Aebot; by Tavistock and Lamerton. Some charming grass lands about Tavi- stock ; still better before Lamerton ; and vet more excellent, at Milton Abbot. Considerable herds of fine oxen, and good fatting cows, are now in these grounds : some of which are still full of grass ; — ^highly colored, and apparently of a superior quality. How extraordinary, that Plots, such as these are, should be scattered in so bleak and barren a Country. Between Lamerton and Milton, an unproductive Heath interv'^enes ; the rich lands of the latter being nearly sur- rounded with such Heaths, and overlooked bv Mauntains : the situation inhospitable in the extreme. The fertile lands of LamertoA and Ta^'istock are insulated in a similar manner. But the extent of these lands, collectively, is small : and, in a survey of the Rural Practice of the West of England, they aj-e rather 1 subject of admiration, than of importance. • 21. DISTRICT. GRAZING. GEOLOGY. 22. 'i86 MINUTES. Nov. n n coATi.vG November l. The roughcast work of BUILDINGS. .• . . . this District is executed in a superior man- ner; being not only durable, but pleasing to the eye. , Some lately done at Ivybridge is equal, in beauty, to dressed stone work. Mr. Staple- ton's house, in this neighbourhood, done in a similar way, has now stood upwards of half a century; and, excepting at the imme- diate foundation, and beneath some of the windows, where water has been sudl-red to lodge, the whole remains as tirm as when first done ; appearing to have acquired a stonelike texture. In both these cases shin- ing gravel has been used ; and both of them are false-jointed, to resemble dressed stone work. An intelligent workman, whom I acci- dentally conversed with on this subject, sug- gested an admirable theory of the operation of roughcasting ; making an accurate distinc- tion between this and Stucco work. Stucco being laid on, in a state of paste y more or less air is unavoidably shut up, — let it b'^ ever i^o well Vr'orked ; and the very ex- I79I WEST DEVONSHIRE. pansion and contraction of this air, by heat and frost, is sutBcient to break the texture of the Stucco. Beside, let the working be done ever so carefully, cracks, tho not evi- dent to the eye, will be formed in drj^ing ; and if, by means of these microscopic fissures (or of those formed by the expansion and partial escape of the conhned air), water take possession of the air cells, the perishing and peeling become natural consequences. Roughcast, on the contrary, being ap- plied, in a fluid state, and by little and little, tills up every pore and cranny in the face of the wall ; as well as in the face of every suc- ceeding coat ; which being suffered to dry, before another coat be added, the cracks, if any take place, are filled up ; and deep ones, of course, are effectually prevented : where- as, the cracks of Stucco necessarily reach through the coat. Stucco evidently partakes of the nature of cement that is used, in a state of paste or mortar; liquid coating, of cement poured into the wall, in a state of grout, or fluid matter. Stucco is analogous to the materials of a dam, or the bank of a canal, formed with earth, in a plastic state: rough coating, to the " puddle* 187 22. COATING BUILDINGS. MINUTES. Nov. '* pudiUe' ot Canal Makers: to loam inti- mately mixed with water, and permitted to subside in a liquid state: thus prev'enting air cells; and terming a close, homogeneous mass. 1 804. The ordinary practice of the Coun- try is, first, to cover the wall with a coat of lime and hair mortar, in the plasterer's man- ner; and, while this is moist, to dash on the Roughcasting ; which thus intimately unites witli the surface of the plastering ; and while this continues to adhere to the wall, the coating remains unimpaired. Some years ago, the mansion of Buckland Avas roughcast, n'lthoHt being previously plaf^fered, — in the following manner: The Walls, of rough stone, and of varied appearance, — owing to the contractions, aU terations, and additions, which have been taking place, from time to time, since the dissolution of monasteries, — were, first, scrap- ed with trowels, and swept hard with dry brooms ; to remove tlie dirt and the looser roughnesses of the surface. They were, then, watered, with the common garden vs atcring pot ; moving the nozle, a few inches Irom the wall, while a broom was briskly applied bener.th it: thus cleansing the masonrv, ijgi. WEST DEVONSHIRE. 1S9 more efTcctually, and completely moistening every seam and cranny of the surface. While a part, so prepared, was still moist, a coat of roughcast (namely, fine clean washed gravel, lime, and a little coloring, formed into a grout or batter) was dashed on with a wooden spatula, in the usual manner ; and, before that became dry, another, and, in due time, a third, coat was added: the three coats being, in this manner, firmly united, or it may be said incorporated, not only with each other, but with the face of the building. Time will shew the effect. 22. COATING BUILDINGS. Df.cember 10. TuRXEPS. (See Mix. 18.) Several acres of these Turneps were, in my absence, omitted to be hoed. I found them, overgrown with Charlock, — three feet high, and as vellow as a Rape field in blossom : the seeds of the lower pods being fully formed. Part had been drawn by hand, according to the custom of the Country, and thrown in heaps : an expensive and wasteful practice. A few cart loads were ordered to be mown,- — high enough to prevent, as much as pos- sible, the injury of the Turneps, — and low- enough. CHARLOCK, AS FOOD OP CATTLE. ISO MINUTtS. Dec. 23. enough, to get beneath the pods of the Char- cuARLocK. lock ; and were strowed over an adjoining AS FOOD OF JO CATTLE. pasture ground. Sheep ate the tips of the leaves of the Tur- reps, partially cut otf by the sithe ; and also tlie leaves of the Charlock ; but left the pods and the stalks of the latter, in a great mea- sure untouched. Cattle, however, preferred the Charlock ; eating the whole up, clean ; before they picked up the leaves of the Turneps. Four or five acres kept about t\\ enty head of young and store cattle, near three weeks. Had the food been given to them regularly, and more frugally than it was, it would have kept them,suliicientlyas store cattle, a month. This, added to the saving of the expence, compared with that of drawing, cannot be reckoned at less than twenty shillings, an acre. They ate it so voraciously, that one or two of them were repeatedly blown, or tempo- rarily sutflated, bj it : and a lieifer failed so much, while at this food, that it was thought right to have her butchered. On opening her, however, her disorder appeared evident- ly to have been of some duration ; a part of her intestines being in a state of decay. The pungency of the Charlock might, or migh^t 1791. WEST DEVONSHIRE, not, have stimulated her disorder. 191 This be- 23. ino- as it mav, it is sufficiently proved, that charlock, » '* , >,, 1 1 • AS FOOD OF healthy cattle may be kept on Charlock m cattle. pod, with safety and profit *. 24. December 10. Tlie only useful idea I cABBACEt. have been able to collect, from the late ma- nager of this farm, is his method of cutting garden Cabbages. Instead of clearing the stalk or stem from the lower leaves, and cross-slitting the crown or top of the stalk, in the usual manner, — he cuts out the body of the Cabbage, only ; let- ting all the open, large, spreading leaves, remain upon the stem. The consequence is a second, perhaps a third, crop of Cabbages ; not one but many, upon a stem ; forming, by the third crop, a Cabbage tree. There are now, in the gar- den of this place, several stems, with four, five, or more wellsized table Cabbages on each : and, apjjlied to the field Cabbages, which * Part of It, the rough Charlock or Wild Mustard (Sinaph arvensii) ; part, the smooth Charlock, or Wild Rape fBraj/ica XapusJ. 192 ^JINUTKS. Dec which are cut earlv, the principle may be a good one. The old leaves continue to draw up the sap, until vigcrous shoots are formed; when the I'ormer are observed to droop, de- cay, and fall at the foot of the plant ; being, perhaps, in every stage of their decay, useful to the young progeny; in shading the ground, in keeping down the u eeds, and perhaps in furnishing a useful supply of putrid air to their rising offspring : advantages which are lost in the ordinarv' method of treatment. Many of the plants are killed by the sudden check of the sap, and those which survive, throw out numerous, and of course, weak shoots ; few of them swelling to any useful size, or taking the Cabbage form. ^5- December 18. A Society of Agricul* TURK, I understand, is now forming in the South ITams. In my late excursion, through that District, I heard of a " Plowing Match,'* at Kingsbridge, and another, at Ivy bridge; where Meetings of Country Gentlemen, and substantial Yeomen, distributed re- ^VARDS TO GOOD WORKMEN I a rational Insti- tution, which, while it continues to adhere 1791. WEST DEVONSHIRE. 193 to this prlndple, cannot fail of proving be- 25. neficial to the country. aoricul- r ^ o • I TURAL it mere preceptive c5ocieties> v/ithout societies. tlie power of example, in themselves, can be materially serviceable to the advancement of Agriculture, their object, lam of opinion, ought to be that of encouraging good HUSBANDRY, among professional men : of searching for superior Husbandmen; and distinguishing them in such. manner, as to create a spirit of emulation ; and of assisting such distinguished Managers to procure the requisite means of imjjrovement : — thus pla- cing them in a conspicuous light, and making them the honorable instruments of that ex- ample, which a merely perceptive Society has not, in itself, the power of setting. For a mixed fortuitous Association of unpractised individuals to attempt, in themselves, to improve the Rural Arts and Sciences, is an act of weakness that could only be equalled by Societies of such men attempting the im- provement of law, physic, and divinity, without the professional aid of practical men. But, on a large estate, encouragements of this sort maybe the best eifected,by its Pro- prietor alone. He knows, or ought to know, the individuals who are most worthy of being vol. II. o made MINUTES. Dec. 25. made tiie distinguished leaders of its improve- ment : and, in tliis case, he can encourage them, according to their merit; witliout be- ing liable to the cabals of Theorists and Ad- venturers, to which mixed Societies are ever subject. A few pounds expended, annually, among his own tenants, in stimulating them to accurate management, would, in most cases, pay him tenfold interest *. These reflections suggest Institutions of a higher order. Let men of landed property associate : not so much for the particular purpose of encouraging good husbandry among their tenants, as for the more general intention of ascertaining the suitable regula- tions, under which to conduct the manage- iviENT of Estates. For seeing, what is evi- dent, not onlv in the District under sur^ ev, but in other Jjistricts of the Island, that a greater defalcation of public and private pro- perty is incurred, through the inaccurate management of landed property, than through * In a Sketch of the Rural Ecoxomv of the Cen- tral Highlands of Scotland, which I had the honor '.f presenting, in 1794, to the Board of Agriculture, as a Report concerning that part of ihe Island, I pursued this idta ; proposing to divide a large estate into Districts, or Officiarics ; and to place a superior manager in each, as a distinguished Leader, in Rural Improvements. I791. WIilST DEVONSHIRE. 19S. the errors of cultivation, it belongs exclusively 25. to the possessors of estates to rectify the ini- associa- • ^ ... TIONS OF propriety ^. landed The subjects, that would naturally offer mes. themselves to such Associations, are the fol- lowing. The present management of landed pro- perty, in the District of Association. The laying out of estates, into farm lands, or * I am desirous of being fully understood. There are, in these Kingdoms, many Estates, as well as many Farms, in a state of go ^d management ; they being either under the immediate direction of Proprietors, who have turned their attention to rural concerns ; or of Agents, who have a practical knowledge of rural affairs, and who have no interests subversive of, or distmct from, the good order and prosperity of the Estates under their care. Bot there will be little risk in saying, that a majority of the larger Estates, throughout the Island, are under very different principles of management. I am equally desirous to be explicit, with respect to Societies of Agrici;lture. I have said in another place (seethe Rural Economy of the Midland Coun- ties, Vol.1, p. 87), that mixed Societies are capable of producinsT good, by assimilating the sentiments of Pro- prietors and Occupiers. And I believe that Provincial Societies have ever been beneficial, in the outstt, to the Districts in which they have been fonned ; by agitating the Subject, and tending to awaken the spirit of im- provement, O 2 xgo MrSTTES. Dec. 25. ASSOCIA- TIONS OF LANDED GENTLE- MEN. or such as are adapted to ontivation, and into woodland?, or such as are fittest for the production of timber or coppice wood. The suitable sizes and characters of farms, for the given District. The species of tenancy. The forms of leases. The quahfications of tenants. The proper seasons and terms of removals, receiving rents, &c. MINUTES. Jan. 35. quality, equal to that of arable lands, which are worth ten or t\s*elve shillings the statute acre. Of course, woodlands atford, to their proprietors, little more than half the annual rent of farm lands, of equal quality. For suppose coppice wood of twent;\' years growth sells for ten pounds the provincial acre, — this is but barely equivalent to seven shillings an acre, received annually for farm lands ; as, in the course of twenty years, the interest of the several annual sums received, and the accumulating interest thereupon aris- ing, amounts to nearly half the principal: and, if a farther reduction be made for the difference between the provincial and the sta- tute acre, we shall bring down this nominal rent often shillings, an acre, a year, to httie more than five. Twenty pounds, an acre, have been offered for twenty acres of the best of this coppice wood : under the conditions of the purchaser being allowed two years for the felling of it ; — and to pay at Christmas for the quantity taken down in the preceding year ; agreeablv to the us\Kil custom of the C'ountrv. 71iis farther delay of the receipt of the principal, and the attendant Xos^h of interest, is a farther reduction of the annual re^it of ^793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. 221 the land ; yet is seldom, perhaps, taken into the account, in calculating the net produce of woodlands. On calculation, I find that twenty pounds, an acre, for wood of thirty years growth, does not neat more than seven shillings and nine pence an acre, received annually, and put out, at simple interest, at five percent. At four percent, and reckoning nothing for interest on the accumulating interest (which in a course of years would amount to a con- siderable sum), this price does not neat more than eight shillings and five pence an acre, a year, received annually as rent; even sup- posing the whole money to be paid down at the time of sale. About thirty acres of this tract of wood- land lie on a culturable slope ; and would be worth, in a state of full cultivation, fifteen shillings, an acre: whereas, in a state of woodland, it has probably never paid more than one third of the money ; and is not, in reality, worth more than one half of it. The propriety of reclaiming it, from its present unprofitable state, admits not of dis- pute ; and the manner of bringing it into cul- tivation is the only point which remains to be determined. To RENTAL VALUE OF COPPICES. RECLAfVf- INGCOPPICt GROUND, MINUTES. Jan. 35. RECLAIM- ING COPPICE GROUND. To dig up the roots entirely, so as to ad- mit the plow, in the first instance, would not only be expensive ; but, by bringing up the substrata, the cultivated soil would be debased, and rendered unproductive for a course of years. But, — by clearing away the whole, level with the ground, or a little within the sur- face of it; and dressing this freed surface with lime, in order to dissolve, more readily, the leaves and decayed wood with which it is thickly covered ; and by giving a degree of evenness to the surface with the harrow and the roller ; sowing suitable grass seeds between the operations ; — a sheep walk would be immediately obtained ; and, in a few years, when the roots were decayed, and a turf formed over them, the land might be broken up with ease and profit *. February 13. (See the last Minute.) A few days ago, I sold the whole of this cop- pice wood, at the high price of twentytwo * For former Remarks on this Method of Reclaiming Woodlands, sec Youkshirk, Vol. I. page 2:96; and for farther Remarks, see Treatise on Landed Pro- pert v. 4 1793- WEST DEVOXSHIRE. 223 pounds ten shillings, an acre ; and under the 30. following favorable conditions *. The whole to be taken down in two years; namely, in the years ] 793 and 1794. — One hundred pounds of the purchase money to be paid down, each year, previously to the com- mencement of the cutting ; one moiety of the remainder of the amount, of what shall be taken down in each year, at ^Midsummer; the other moiety, at the ensuing Christmas. The purchaser to be allowed a square perch for each tree standing among the coppice wood, and a quarter of a perch, for each standle of the last cutting. To finish the cuttings, by Midsummer, and to clear the ground, by the Christmas following, in each year, &c. &c. Previously to this bargain, I had an ofier of twenty pounds, an acre, for the whole, ^to be taken down in five years. The diiferencc between these two prices appears, on a superficial view of them, to be little more than a hundred pounds. But if * These conditions are inserted, here, for the general purpose of giving the Reader an opportunity of comparing them with those of other Districts; and to assist, even- tually, m drawing Forms of Conditions of Sales; which, as Forms of Leases, arc at present, irj a degree vague and unfixed. CONDITtONS OF SALt OF COPPICE WOOD. SAI.'E OF COPPKTE WOOD. MINUTES. Ja-v. if the interest of money, and the growth of the succeeding wood, be taken into the cal- culation, the superior advantages of the latter will be found to amount to more than two hundred pounds : as appears in the following statement. First, forty five acres, at 2ol. an acre, and taking down nine acres a year. Growth of Wood at 8s. 1st Year, Pi.nc. , i8o Int. £■ 00 2d i8o 9 3d i8o 18 4th i8o 27 5th i8o 36 <;CO Prin. yo 90 Interest t 54 Growth of Wood, /• J. J. 3 12 0 7 4 0 10 16 0 14 8 0 18 0 0 54 jr.1044 ^^^ tola! Advantage at the end of five years. Secondly, fortyfive acres at 22l. los. and tvventytwo and a half acres, a year. 1st Year, Princ. £■ - . 5-^6 5 J. 0 Int. /• ^- 00 0 J. 0 Growth of Wood, 9 J. 0 0 3d 5,06 5 0 25 6 3 18 0 0 3d 03 0 0 50 iJ 6 18 0 0 4th 5th CJ c 00 0 0 50 IJ 50 11 6 6 ion, in succession, and by little and little, until the wall appears, by the eye, to be nearly up- right ; when a mason's pumb-rule is applied to it, and its perpendicularity-, in every part, nicely adjusted. The wall is then firmly underpinned, on both sides ;~the fissures, whether formed for the purpose, described above, or by the rising of the wall, on the opposite side, are filled up, and wedge-shaped stones driven in with a large wooden beetle, to give the re-, quired stability. If the foundation, on the side to which the wall leaned, be crippled, or is found to be in any wa}* defective, it is proper to rebuild it ; as a security to the wall, in future. 1793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. 231 -^8 February 16. On a farm on which sheep arc a principal object, temporary leys pro- ductive of sheep food become, likewise, an object of the first magnitude. The practice of mowing, the first year, leys intended for five or six years duration, is a crime for which nothing, but necessity, is admissible as an excuse. By this improvident step, the sward or turf is rendered thin of plants, for several succeeding years. Not only the more delicate species of herbage, which seldom fail to rise after a short course of aration, are liable to be checked or smothered, by the luxuriant growth and imperv^ious shade of cultivated herbage ; but the cultivated herbs themselves, are in some certain degree weakened, and their number decreased ; especially if the soil be much exhausted, or be out of tilth. On this farm, a striking instance of the mischief arising from the practice of mowing such leys, the first year, is at this time most evident. The young ley grounds, which were mown last summer, may be said to be now unoccupied ; except by daisies, ground- sel, and a few other weeds. One of them, tho Q 4 the 38. SHEEP FARMING. TEMPORA- RY GRASS LANDS. MINUTES. Feb. 38. the land is of a superior quality, is not worth, for the coming year, five shillings an acre. Whereas, had it been pastured down, close» last spring and summer, it would, in all probability, have been worth five times that rent — for this and several succeeding years, ' — as a sheep pasture. But see Min. 6o. To every farm, on which cultivated leys, of five or six years duration, make a part of the plan of management, the most desirable appendage is a sufficiency of meadow lands^ or PERENNIAL MOWING GROUNDS, tO fumisll the farm with a supply of hay, without being under the necessity of mowing temporary leys, the first year ; and happily circum- stanced is the farm, whose situation, with respect to the quality and quantity of water it commands, enables it to produce, by ir- rigation, a sufficiency of hay, to carry its requisite livestock, through the winter months. The demesne lands of this estate are fortu- nately in this situation. Some twenty pr thirty acres of them have been more or less watered, time immemorial; and with watc;* of a superior quality. The etlects of the slate-rock waters of this District are superior to those of any others I have had an opportunity of observing ; the »793' WEST DEVONSHIRE. chalk waters of the Southern counties ex- cepted. There are slopes of hills, on this and the surrounding farms, which are now as green and g?^oss, to the eye at ^ distance, as the rankest wheat in May *. Seeing these advantages, I have been assi- duous to ascertain the facts respecting the possibility of watering the different parts of this estate ; and I found, some time ago (see Mix. 27), that almost every acre of it is ca- pable of being flooded, artificially, by running water. The quantity of water, however, that can be conveyed to it, tho sufficient to furnish pasturing stock, with a valuable sup- ply of beverage, is too small for the purposes of irrigation. But the mischiefs arising from the practice of mowing ley grounds, the first year, hav- ing lately pressed more closely on my mind, I have been studying, with redoubled atten- tion, the capacity of the different grounds of this farm, with respect to water: — and I have discovered, that a sufficiency of them, to answer, fully, the purposes required, are capable of receiying an abimdant supply ; and * It is even-where observable, that the steeper the ylope, the more obvious is the effect. ^33 38, NATURE OF WATER, STUDYING SITES OF IMPROVE- MENT. -^> MIXUTE^. Feb. 38. WATERING SLOPES. PROCESS OF IRRIGA- TION. and that such, a supply may be brought to them, at a small expence. The waters which are already within the farm, claiming, however, the Jfirst attention, I have, hiiherto, been endeavoring to turn them to the best advantage ; by conducting them properly over the lands which most command them. This has been clFoclcd bv taking the water out of its natural channel, at dit^'crcnt heights, and comeying it to the several stages of the slopes, over which these lands are spread, by means of main channels, leats, or artifi- cial rills ; for the purpose of feeding the ope- rative trenches, which distribute and spread the water over the faces of the slopes. In setting out and forming these conduct- ing channels, I have found the plummet \e\e\ a safe and ready assistant ; and the descent of one measure in a hundred most£hgible;-»— as giving a lively motion to the water, and a firm bottom to the channel., without wear- ing away its sides. In conducting channels of this intention, across grounds much varied m surface, and where a degree of ornament is required to be joined with use, as was the case in this in- stance, some attention is re(^ui^ile. If the ,793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. ^35 ground be implicitly followed with the level, 38. not only a circuitous length of channel and a PROCKS^f^ waste of land, but short angular unsightly txon. bends, are produced. If, on the contrary, straight lines are attempted across a varied surface, the labor of raising the hollows, and sinking the knolls, is great, and the beauty of the line is wholly lost. Hence, where the ground does not naturally atford the given hne, the middle course is proper to be chosen. In this instance of practice, I have found it best to set out the line, first by the level, crooked or straight, as the ground directs ; then, to give it the required direction, by the eye ; and, afterward, to correct the eye with the plummet ; lest the line should lie much too high or too low, in any particular part -.—for a steepsided trench is liable to be trodden in by cattle, and a sharp ridgey bank is equally liable to be torn down by their tread : while, over a wide shallow chan- nel, with a broad swelling bank, on the lower side, they step without injury. A concave channel, three feet wide, and six or eight inches deep in the middle, is capable of conveying a considerable body of water, through the area of a meadow^ (in a case where 236 MIN'UTES. Feb. 38. PROCt'^'; OF IRRIGA- TION. LAYING OUT WATERfeD LASDS. where such a channel may be found expedient), yet is not only safe from the tread of pastur- ing stock, but may be freely rode across, without injury ; or any alarm to a timorous rider. But, in watering the hangs of hills where a blank site is given, and uherc no fences already exist, there are few cases, perhaps, in which the main channel should be liable to the passage of stock. The uppermost is, of course, laid as high as the tioAv ing level from the source will allow, and necessarily divides the watered from the unv^atered lands ; and is, of course, a g}re}i line of fence. If the valley be narrow, or the foot of the slope which conmiands the water be short, one main conducting trench is sutTicient. For by running parallel trenchlets along the face of the slope, at once to collect the dis- persed waters, from above, and to distribute them more evenly below ; and by letting down a supply of water to the lower trench- lets, when the upper side of the f lope is suf- ficiently watered ; one supplying channel is sufficient to water an ordinary field's width of land. And, if a continuation of the slopq require it, another channel, and another 1793- ^^'EST DEVONSHIRE. 237 fence, may and in general ought to run pa- 38. rallel to the lirst. laying out There are two reasons why fences of this lands. sort should be placed on the iipj)er side of the conducting rill. The water is more easily let off, into the working trenches, than it would through a fence; and especially through a hedge, — whose roots, and the holes of the vermin they harbor, would be the cause of a continual waste of water. Viewing fences, thus winding along the wavy surface of a slope, in the light of orna- ment, a light in which they ought to appear within this demesne, an additional motive, for running them along the side of a wavy rill, arises. If the broad swelling bank, which ought to accompany such a rill on the lower side, were formed into a walk, — deter- mined in width, and always kept dry, by a working trench, on its lower margin, — the bank would be rendered firm, by the pres- sure of the foot, and, in this instance, a delightful stroll will be (i804, has been) ob- tained, at an easy cost. 3g. «38 MINUTES. F«. 39. 39. ''^wiTh ^ February 20. I have at length the plea- °^^^' sure of seeing a two-ox plow completely in its work. Two oxen, in yoke, with a single chain passing from it, to the draft iron of the plow, and driven, with whip reins, by the plowman, have been employed, during the last fortnight, in giving the first fleet plow- ing of turnep grounds : a work which they perform with ease and dispatch. TbJs is the simplest and cheapest plow- team I have vet set to work. The voke and single chain, if made hght and well fitted to the oxen, are, for a two-ox plow, in light work, much preferable to collars, traces, and splinter bars ; >\ hich are complex, expensive, and for ever entangling witli the reins ; and the splinter bars are a heavy incumbrance, at the head of a light swing plow. September, 17Q4. This summer, I have had two of these admirable plow-teams, in full work : employing them, chiefly, in stirring fallows ; \\ hich they do with great eflect : plowing eight or nine inches deep, with plows which clear their work. To make the labor the less, and the operation ^793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. n9 the mare eifertiTC, the slices are cut narrow; not more than six or seven inclies wide; by which means this cheap and easy plowing becomes nearly equal to spade work ; — more effective than almost any number of the par- tial plowings, usually given to broken ground, in this District. PLOWIKG WITH TWO OXEN. March 12. In the Autumn of 1791, I designed and set out,, and have now brought into a train of finishing, a suite of farm YARDS and BUILDINGS, on a large scale. See Minute 29. I have not leisure to register, in detail, the minutiae of this improvement ; but a few particulars strike. A DUXG YARD of a scmi-octagou form, in- closed, on one side, with cattle sheds, and, on the other, by a line of stables and farm offices ; with opposite gates and a carriage road, by the side of the latter ; is, in every point of view, in ■v\-hich I have yet seen it, verv' eligible. Battering foundation walls. The sur- face of this yard, by reason of the form of the ground (see page 206), necessarily rises, in farmery OF buck:- LAND. CATTLE YARDS. BUILDING. MINUTES. March in one part of it, nine or ten feet, above the road, which passes on the outside of the sheds ; consequently^ the weight of earth> encreased by the weight of the sheds, and that of the cattle they may contain, rendered it necessary to counteract the inward pres- sure ; and this has been efTectually done, by carrying up the foundation of the back wall of the sheds, so as to lean against the load, and thereby act as a general buttress against the pressure. This foundation w'all lessens, from four feet at the base, to two feet at the floor of the sheds, and the level of the yard ; not with a straight line of inclination ; but with a gentle curvature, resembling that of the spreading base of a well grown tree. Raking the roofs of buildings. In the extreme aukwardness of the natural site of these yards lay many difficulties. This range of sheds was to be built downward of a slope (not across it) which was much too steep to make the building *' rake," or incline, with its descent : yet, to have brought the ground to a level, w ould not only have been expen- sive, but would have rendered the communi- cation, between this and the yard below it, inconvenient ; and a break in a roof is al- ways to be sedulously avoided. A middle £793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. course was therefore to be taken. And find- ing that the ancient, monastic building, in the front of which these sheds were to be erected, raked very considerably, it was deemed ex- pedient, whether with a -vdew to utility or appearance, to give the new buildings the required degree of inclination ; thus steering between two inconveniences : a principle in business which may often be well adopted. Some inconveniency to workmen, it is true, arises from raking the roof of a build- ing : the level and the square (their or- dinary guides) becoming useless. But, by drawing a raking line upon the face of thef common level (as in setting out roads and wa- ter courses), the wall-plates and purlins may be accurately adjusted to the required inclina- tion : and the bevel and plumb-rule will rea- dily set the principals and rafters upright. The proper wiDTrt of sheds, for full- grown cattle, with a three-feet passage before their heads, is one statute rod (sixteen feet and a half) from out to out of the building ; the back wall (in this case of stone) being two feet thick. The PILLARS of these sheds are of oak, and eight inches square, set upon blocks of moor- stone ; out of which rise short iron pins, to VOL. II. R keep «4t 40. BUILDING, CATTLE SHEDS. ' MINUTES. March 40. keep the feet of the posts in their places ; the rTLL tops of the stones declining gently from the pins, to prevent any water from lodging upon them; and thereby to elude, as much as possible, the decay of the timber. The proper width of a stall, for two middle-sized working oxen, is seven feet. Cows, tho of smaller size than oxen, require as much or more room, for the conveniency of milking them, and suckling their calves. A danger of making stalls too wide is that of the cattle turning round in them ; and by that means placing themselves, in an aukward and dangerous situation, with respect to their fellows, lliis danger, however, is to be guarded against by a post rising in the middle of the stall, immediately before the shoulders of the cattle ; in a line with the front posts of the PARTIAL PARTITIONS*: and a post in this place may be found useful to fasten calves to, during the time of suckling. The proper length or stalls, for Devon- shire oxen, of the larger size, is nine feet ; namely, three feet the width of the trough, and six feet the platform, or resting place; Viith a depression, or descent, of one to two inches, from the outer rail of the trough, to • See MiD. CoL'XT. Vol. I. p. 30. *793- West Devonshire. Mz a break or drop in the pavement, six inches deep ; — formed hy strong flat slate stones, set on edge ; nearly perpendicularly, but some- what inclining to the stalls. From the bottom of this break, to the line formed by the base stones of the pillars, the PAVEMENT takes a gently convex or swelling form, and thence descends by a continuation of the same curve, to the brink of the dung pit ; into v^hich, of course, the w^ater, fall- ing from the eaves of the sheds, readily finds its way. On the higher side of the yard, the dung PIT shelves, with a gentle descent, from the bases of the pillars ; but, on the lower sidej it w^as found convenient to sink it, more abruptly, from a broad path, or gangway (six feet wide from the pillars), to the depth of two feet, or more. The Ibank or steep side of this dung pit is formed of the same slate Stoned, as are the Walls of the sheds ; not, however, perpendicularly, as bank walls of this intention are frequently carried up ; but very much battering, or falling back towards the sheds ; the angle of inclination, from the perpendicular, being not less than thirty de- grees. The foundation of this wall was dug, and the courses of stones laid, not horizon- R 2 tally. 40. CATTLE SHEDS. DUNG PITS. MINUTES. March tallv, but at right angle, or square, with the line of reclination ; the earth being firmly rammed in behind, as the waW was carried up. ^rhe uppermost or coping stones arc large and strong; serving as bonds to the wall, and as a buttress to the convex pave- ment, above mentioned; which press^ against these coping stones, on one side, and against those which form the outer edge of the platforms of the stalls, on the other, as an arch bears on its hutments*. On a stage below this principal dung yard, and on the upper side of the bam, a str.^w Y-vRD, for loose cattle, and store swme, is shaped out of the slope of the hill on which this farmerv is situated. And behind the range of offices, %n hich form one side of the dung yard, is another straxv yard. And be- tween these two straw yards is a milkikq and WOOD yard. ^'.Kj^j^isG These three yards are watered, by means of the made rill, which has been spoken of, in Minute 27; and which passes through these yai-ds, in channels, partially or wholly open, for the use of stock ; and thence • 1804 The whole of this mason's work and pave- n.ent remains peifectly .firm. The same, principle of construction may be well a^^pUed, on many occasions. tARDS. 1793- WEST DEVONSHIRE. 245 through a covered drain, to its natural chan- 40. nel. In passing through the principal straw- watering yard, it runs along the top of a dwarf wall, or offset (at the foot of a fence wall), twelve or fifteen inches high, from the level of the yard ; and about fourteen inches wide ; with a channel (formed with wide flat slate stones), six inches deep on the back part, but shelving upward to the surface in front ; and divided by upright stones, placed cdgeway across the rill ; which has, here, a considerable descent : consequently, each obstruction forms a small pool, or drinking place ; eight or ten head of cattle being able to drink, at the same time, and with the most perfect conveniency. Finding, by experience, that too copious a supply of water is, on many accounts, trouble- some, in a rill of this intention, I ascertained the exact size of the stream required, by means of gauges of different dimensions, set across the channel. And having found, that a bore of two inches diameter gave the de- sired supply, a perforated stone with a bore of this diameter is fixed, in a frame of oak, and placed across the channel, above tlie yards, with a waste-water channel, immediately above it : so that an inordinate supply of wa- K 3 ter. 246 MINUTES. March 40. ter, sent down by rains or otherwise, is ef- fectually prevented. FARM YARD In this vafd, the stall cattle are watered, ECONOMV. • ' * and allowed to amuse themselves, in the middle of the day; while the store swine are collecting in the dung yard, whatever the stalls of the stables may afford them ; being carefully kept out of that yard, while the cattle are in their stalls : a principle of ma- nagement which can never be departed from, with propriety. "^'ARD The superiiuous rain \vatcr, or yard li- QUOR, of these several yards, passes off, in the following manner. That of the dung yard (as well as those of the inferior yards) passes, first, into the principal straw yard ; in a pit, or hollow part, of which it makes its first deposit. From hence the collected waters are led through paved courts, and a stable yard, — collecting in their passage, and by proper assistance, in times of rain, the suUi- ^e which such places are ever accumulating, — to a common receptacle ; where, having deposited their grosser feculencics, they are occasionally let off into the main conducting channel that has been mentioned, mix with lis stream, and assist in fertilizing the mea- dow lands which lie in the valley, below. 1793- WEST OF ENGLAND. ' 247! CONTINUATION of MINUTES IN THE rrEST OF ENGLAND, (First published in this Edition.J 41 41 1/04. May 27. It IS a prevailine practice barn- , 1 T 1 • 1 ^ " • FLOOR to set out large valuable timber trees, lor plank. Barn-floor Planks ; which ought not to be laid down more than six or eight inches wide. A broad plank is liable to warp, and thereby to render the floor uneven ; the corn lodged on the hollow parts being thus pre- vented from receiving the efficient strokes of the flail. Therefore, to avoid this bad effect, judicious workmen slit down wide planks, so as to reduce them to a proper breadth. Another evil consequence of cutting up large fullgrovvn timber trees, for thrashing floors, is that of the wood being more liable to a brittleness of texture — a shortness of grain — at the center or heart, than is that of youthful growing trees ; which it is well known, by R 4 men ! MINUTES. Mat -i 1 • men of experien ce, ought ever to be chosen for the purpose of thrashing tloors : in order that the planks may be able to resist the severe action of the Hail with greater endurance. On entering a grove of young growing timber, with the intention of pointing out suitable trees, for the purpose under consi- deration ; but finding tew of size, and these proper to be reser\ed, for more important uses, while numberless small underling trees stood in the way of their growth ; I deter- mined to form a thrashing floor with weed- LiXG plants; namely, timberlings of seven or eight inches, timber-girt ; or about thirty inches in circumference. These, if tolerably straight, as closely growing grove trees ge- nerally are, cut out into three planks, of two inches in thickness, and from five to nine inches wide ; free from sap : underling trees having a greater proportion of heart, than have those of a freer growth. 1804. I have attended, from time to time, to the wear of this floor ; and have found that it is equal, in durability^ to floors made of the most valuable timber ; a fact by -which the proprietors of estates may frequently profit ; so long as wooden thrashing floors may be deemed requisite. 1794- WEST OF ENGLAND. ^49, 42. 42. 1794. June 11. Some days ago, a small lite-lease* holding " fell into hand," by the death of tenure. the lessee ; his being the last of the three lives on which it has been, heretofore, sold : a short notice of the transaction which has taken place, in consequence of his demise, will serve to convey some particulars of ^ species of business, which is continually oc- curring in the rural concerns of this country. The executors of the deceased (his sons) applied for the refusal of the farm ; and asked (or indirectly claimed a right) to occupy and depasture . the premises forty days after the demise. This was of course refused ; the right of possession terminating with the last life. But to keep the tenement out of hand, and gain time to determine on the proper disposal of these lands (this being a detached holding — not the residence of the late occu- pier) as well as to accommodate the executors of the deceased, it was agreed that they should keep possession until Lady day (the customar}^ time of the removal of tenants in this District), they paying an estimate value 5 " tor 250 MINUTES. Jl'nk 42. LIFE-LEASE- HOLD TEKURE, DILAPIDA. TiO-VS. MARKIKG TLMBER FOR REPAIRS. MAVAGE- M'rST OF 15TATES. for the pasturage (of which the holding now w holly consists) from a week after the de- mise (a few days being usually given) until that time. This morning, a man of business — an ex- perienced farmer — put a value upon the pas- turage ; the executors bringing another man to value against him. The valuers had also instructions to look to the condition of the fences and the gates of the farm ; and to put down how many of the latter are wanting, and how many require repairs. In the mean time, the dilapidated state of the buildings was attended to ; each party having brought a mason and a carpenter to make the required estimates of repairs to be done, by the executors of the deceased. The quantity and particulars of repair being agreed to, and the estimate of timber rc- <|uired being made, trees were marked near the spot, suitable to the several purposes ; the two carpenters attending ; and agreeing to the sufficiency of the quantity and quality of the timlier trees marked. Thus, in two hours, these premises have been put in a train of improvement ; or at least in a state of safety. The award to be delivered in by the referces (for such they are 1794. WEST OF ENGLAND, 4Sli in efFect) will be binding to both parties. No complaint, misunderstanding, or law pro- ceeding, can now take place. General Remark. Through the want of a few hours, thus profitably and agreeablj^ spent, from time to time, this estate has heretofore been let down to its present low condition, with respect to its buildings and fences. 42. MANAGE- MENT OF ESTATES. 43 1794. August 10. Notwithstanding the drought of this summer, much wheat is blighted ! In many instances, the strmu is black almost as bean halm. It was not per^ ceived, and did not probably take place, ym-r til the late showery weather. This may serve to account for the apparent fulness of the grainy which does not seern to have received much injury. Sept. l . Now, the grain being dry, it is evidently much injured: being small and shrivelled. Had it been cut as soon as the malady was perceived, the grain would pro- bably have been of a better quality. For other instances of a similar nature, see Minute 50. 44. BLIGHT OF WHEAT. 44. MINUTES. Jc^» 44. 1/9/. June 30. How few men are equal to the task of planning a convenient Farm- stead. Mr. , I remember, exclaimed, on seeing the of 's chaos of farm offices, — '' I never saw a new farm yard worth a farthing.'* Yesterdav, I was favored with the inspec- tion of a plan for a suite of farm yards and buildings, on a large and expensive scale. In this instance, it is true, the proposed arrangement may claim a regularity of out- line ; which is nearly quadrangular ; but in the disposition of the several parts of which it is composed, it is the most preposterous thing that I recollect to have seen. Every part may be said to be out of place ; or to be placed with the wrong part foremost : every principle of facility and dispatch being over- turned. The cow stalls and the dairy room are thrown into opposite angles. The cart- horse stable and the working-oxen stalls are placed nearly in the same inconvenient manner, w 1th respect to each other ; and, between them, the cow stalls and calf pens ; — at a distance from the dwelling house. I797» WEST OF ENGLAND. The cart shed is placed on the back part of the yard, — behind the dung pit! while build- ings that may be put any where (or ought to be placed out of the way) occupy the side next to the principal entrance, — the main road to the farm lands. And, among other improprieties of arrangement, a thrashing- mill barn is placed with its wrong end to the corn rick-yard ; with a straw house stuck, a« an excrescence, to its side. In planning farm offices, there are certain rules which cannot be deviated from, with- out violence. The cow STALLS, CALF PENS, HOG STIES, and the dairy room, should communicate easily with each other; and ought to be placed as nearly together, as given circum- stances will allow. The men and the women servants ought not, on hours of business at least, to have any unnecessary communica- tion with each other ; but should be sepa- rated as much as may be ; in order that they may pursue their respective employments, without interruption. The CART Loi'GE ought to stand in a place which is easy of access ; and^ generally, across the principal line of approach, from thefarm lands to the stable. In this situation the carriages \. MIXUTE5. JuNtf 44. carriages are drawn under cover, without inconvenience. Place it in the way to the stable, and construct it so that carriages majr be drawn into it, with the team ; and the most heedless lout may be prevailed upon to lodge them in safety. With respect to a thrashing-mill barn",- rules equally evident have arisen, from what I lately saw at , and from studying the plan under consideration. It ought, on the general principles of straight lines, and lofty roofs, in rural archi- tecture, to form one long-square building ; — ' to be placed with one end, or one side (or both) toward the corn stack-yard; — and to be provided with a chamber floor, reaching from end to end : the height of the floor be- ing regulated by the height of tlie wheel and the machinery of the mill ; and the width of the barn, by the required diameter of the wheel ; which ought to occupy the ground floor of the end next to the rick yard. The machinery of the mill should of course be placed contiguous to the wheel, with a va- cant space on the ground floor, to receive,- and in >\ hich to dress, the thrashed com : the remaining space of the ground floor being a rtfceptaclc of straw, into which the miU ought to throw it. 1797- WEST OF ENGLAND. For the sketch of a farmstead, including a thrashing-mill barn, see Treatise on Landed Property. 1804. A quadrangle of farm offices was planned and erected, conformably with the above principles ; the thrashing-mill barn occupying one of its outer angles ; which is embraced by the rick yard ; so that the un- thrashed corn may be conveniently housed, either at the end or the side of the barn. And it may be useful further to remark, that the stack frames are so situated, with respect to the building, that four or five large ricks may be housed without the expence of team labor, or the interruption which it occasions. An empty waggon being placed under one of the doors, which open into the upper part of the barn, it is loaded to a convenient height with corn from the rick to be housed ; and, upon the platform, thus readily made, the contents of the stack are thrown ; and from thence, with equal facihty, into the barn. 45. THRASHING- MILL BARN. 45 l/Q/. July 21. Travelling notes, in crossing Dartafore ; from Morton Hamp- STEAD, FOREST OF DARTMORE. 256 MIXUTES. JcLT 45. STEAD, by Two-Bridges, towards Buck- forest of LAND*. Enter the Chace or Forest of Dartmore ; and mount its lower range of hills. The soil a dark loam ; the subsoil brown rubble, or fine loamy gravel. How admirably adapted to rabbit warren are these lands. The surface swelling ; with loose ground to work in ; with stones on the surface for fences; and with a ^ulficiency of soil, for cultivating winter food. A few small mountain sheep appear, on this part of " the ^loor;'* resembling those of Okehampton. See Vol. I. p. 343. Much dwarfish heath is seen on the lower hills, or outskirts of the ^Nfoor. Now plots of stoney surfaces meet the eye : some of the stones large ; but, in ge- neral, not more in quantity are seen on the surface, than would fence the lands. Reach the flattened heights: at present, covered with green herbage! But it is mostly coarse : much Nardus sfric/a (mat-grass) and Juncus sqvarrosiis (heath rush), but scarcely any heath appears on these higher grounds : * I print these extemporary notices, as they w ill ?ene to ccnvey furtbtr informaiion respecting this interesting passage of the West of England. See Vol. I. p. 320. DARTMORE. 1797. WEST OF ENGLAND. 1357 which, at some distance, resemble chalky 45, downs, rather than noncalcareous mountain forest of heights. They are, in strict comparison, the middle rank mountains of Merionethshire, and the higher hills of South Wales. Several cultivated plots now appear, in the dips and hollows, which divide the rotund swells that occupy this part of the mountain. Nothing of abruptness is seen. The entire view exhibits a flowing, wavey surface. Some scattered habitations, with a '' stream work," or superficial tin mine; and more cultivation. Also extensive inclosures : pas- ture grounds walled in: doubtlesslv, encroach- ments of the forest lands. See a cultivated flat, or shallow bason, at some distance on the left : the head of a val- ley that dips to the southward. Many w^ell sized thick sheep, on this part of the moor, — variously headed. A few mountain horses scattered on the hills : and some clean young cattle. A deep peat bog, near the road : the first, of anv considerable size, observed. Some fat wedders ! of the horned or house- lamb breed. But the present season is very favorable to the pasturage of these hills. Another habitation and inclosures. VOL. II. s More DARTMORE. 258 MINUTES. July *i5. More young cattle, on well looking, down FOREST OF lands. Yet the soil is here blackish. But the subsoil is still a fine brown loamy gravel, or rubble. An extent of stoney surface : fit for plant- ing, only. A\'ith a wide boggy valley, on the right ; near the turn of the water. A\'hat charming plowing grounds might be had on these hills,- — if the climature could be meliorated, — by sheltering plantations, and skreen fences : a gently swelling surface, and in most parts a free soil ; with moor}' plots to be converted into mowing grounds. But manure, as well as a better climature, is at present wanting. Descend gently towards the Dart (unseen) — at a few miles' distance ; and cross some of its tributary torrents. The near views are still green downs, stock- ed \^ ith small herds of young cattle. Some good two-year-old and three-year-old steers and heifers. And another extensive inclosure ! In the distance, to the right, some ragged " tors" rise to the view * ; with a black moun- tain height, in front. * One of them is named " Parliament Tor ;" from the public meetings, relating to the affairs of the forest, having been held upon it, in former times. A granite DARTMORE, 1797. WEST OF ENGLAND. 259 On the left, see part of Judge Buller's 45. farm and improven^ents f ; and, at some dis- forest of tance forward, across the Dart, Tor Royal, Mr. Tyrwhitt's extensive improvements. Pass a deep peat bog, and a kiln ! Quere to produce peat ashes for manure ? A South-down sheep ! or one so much like the Sussex breed, both in head and car- cass, as not to be readily distinguished, at a short distance, from the best of the old South-down breed. Pass the inn, at Two-bridges; cross the Dart (here a brook of moderate size) ; and leave the Tavistock road to the right. Climb the black hills, westward of the Dart. table of extraordinary size, round which the Parliament were wont to sit, and at which the Dukes of Cornwall may have presided, had long remained sacred and un- touched ; — unless with the finger of awe, by the simple inhabitants of the forest, or the admirers of ancient relics who have visited it; — has lately fallen a sacrifice, under the unhallowed hands of a " modern improver I" Not borne away as a trophy to aggrandize his improvements; but torn into fragments, and applied to an ordinary purpose ! t Let it not be understood, that the foul deed, men- tioned in the foregoing note, was wittingly done, by the late Sir Francis Buli^er ; but, for his use, by the most mischievous animal on the face of the earth, — a miner, S 2 DARTMORE. 660 MINUTES. July 45. Dart. The land coarse and heathy. The FOREST OF surface rough, and set with large blocks of stone. The substrata apparently watery and cold. Altogether impressing an idea that this part of Dartmore has had an origin dif- ferent from that of the main body of the mountain : of that part of it, at least, now travelled across. Reach the turn of the hill. An extensive and grand view is commanded. The more strongly featured parts of Cornwall, — Ply- mouth Sound, and its accompaniments, — the estuary of the Tamer, — and the entire District of West Devonshire, — meet the eye. A pale granulous substratum is here obser- vable. Apparently decomposed granite ; or the materials of granite uncemcnted. The surface still stoney. Several of the grotesque " tors," or rough piles of naked rocks, which give a savageness of aspect to the AVestern front of these moun- tains, are now within view : some of them near at hand. An extraordinary variety of natural surface ! Meet cultivation creeping up, from one of the Western cooms, or mountain-skirt val- leys, and spreading over the face of the hill. Descend steeply towards Walkhampton ; and drop into the valley of the Tuvey. i79y« WEST OF ENGLAND; «^» 46. 46. l-gg. May. The practice of Devonshire, valuing in the valuation of farm lands, is entitled to particular notice ; the estimate being made, not on the neat rent to be paid to the land- lord; but on what is termed the ''gross rent," which includes taxes and repairs. Thus, the gross rent of a small farm (lately fallen into hand) has been estimated (by a provincial valuer) at fortysix pounds ; and the acting manager of the estate has calcu- lated the neat rental value, in the following manner. The gross rent - - - - ^4(5 0 0 Land tax -290 Poor's rate 3 12 11 Church rate 010 5 Repairs annually ( the valuers es- timate) - 2 0 0 8 12 4 The neat annual rent to be paid by the tenant - - ^3/ 7 8 This is a good general principle of valua- tion ; especially when the tenant is bound to s 3 repair. 262 MINUTES. Mat 46. VALUING LAND. LIFE LEASEHOLD. repair. It has doubtlessly arisen out of the West-of-England practice of granting life leases ; under which tenants in general pay all outgoings. It supersedes the necessity of a valuist's enquiring into the state of taxes ; with which a resident manager is supposed to be acquainted ; if not, he can more readily gain the requisite information, than a stranger. And another interesting particular, in the practice of Devonshire, arises from the lapse of this tenement. Four of its fields were sown with corn, before the last life ceased. By the custom of the country, this corn belongs to the representatives of the life lessee ; and the incoming tenant expects twenty shillings, an acre, for the " standing'* of these crops : namely, the use of the lands they occupy : a valuation which the lessee's executors think too high. But the land is of high value (as arable land), namely, about thirty shillings, an acre ; and the estimate, I think, ought rather to be deemed low. Remark. In cases of this nature, how- ever, the state of the land ought, in equity and strict justice, to be the principal guide, in the valuation. If the ground is in good tilth and condition ; especially if it has been well fallowed and manured for the crop, — it 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. would be unreasonable to expect any further requital, for the temporarv' use of the land it occupies. On the contran', if the ground has been fouled and impoverished by repeat- edly cropping it, the whole rent, or a greater value, might well be demanded: some regard being had to the prospective value of the crop; a large crop impoverishing the land more than a small one. 40. 4T. 17QQ. October 22.. Travelling notes, south ' ^^ , ^ SOMERSET- throusfh the Southern Parts ot Somerset- shire. SHIRE ; from Stourhead, by Castle Car}', So- merton, Langport, and Ilminster, to Chard. STOURTON TO CASTLE CARY. (About Ten Miles.) Leave the strongly featured grounds and fine woods of Stourhead ; entering a straight road — long as the eye can trace — leading through grassland inclosures. The land peculiarly cold : a true woodland soil. Mean cows, in mean pastures, AVhat an extent of cold grass lands ; lying s 4 quite MINUTES. Oct. 47. quite flat ! The herbage, of course, weak, yet much of it mown : many globular hay stacks appear : evidently a daiiy District. Still the same description of country I cold grass inclosures, with hedgerow oaks. The stock cows — apparently of a mixed breed. Reach the end of the straight road (five miles in extent), which is terminated by Lord Ilchester's demesne ; and was formed by his Lordship ; who liberally allows travel- lers, from Stourton, to use it. Wind round the grounds of Redlynch ; the road steeply descending, to another stage of flat cool land : with meadow hay, now in small cocks ! The road, here, of soft limestone ; and presently enter upon thin limestone land ; in this low situation ! The corn mostly in, and thatched. — Some blackened barley, however, is still seen in the field ! Wheat stubbles, here, as throughout the West of England, occupy narrow ridges. Arrish mows of wheat — still out. Some warm good grass lands : the soil deep brown loam, on soft limestone. Now, orange- colored fallows are seen, on SOOTH SONfERSET- SHIRE. 1799. WEST OF ENGLAND. 165 either hand : also some clean good turneps : 47. the first observed. Many horned sheep : the horns drooping. More orange-colored loam, on limestone. Still a limestone vale ! with rutty soft limestone roads. Large yellow sheep : doubtlessly colored bv the yellow soils, in folding : one fold ob- served. The surface now breaks into bold swells : with an open view to the left. More black barley ; apparently rotting on the ground ; and the weather still wet ! Meet strings of coal horses. A beautiful billowy passage, on the right: distanced by Alfred's Tower ; — a prominent object. Continue along the ridge of a limestone hill ; and command extensive views in So- mersetshire ; with a town on the right ; — Bruton. Descend towards Castle Car}-; quitting the limestone lands, for deep rich soil, on a sandy base. Still a mixed breed of cows. Pass Castle Caet, and reach the inn, at Almesford. 2 CA5TLE t MINUTES. Oct. ^7- CASTLE GARY to SOMERTON. (About Ten Miles.) Leave " Ainsford Inn," and pass through the town, or large village, of Castle Cary. Good grass land, below the town ; and a ver}' large orchard : a rich, fine passage of country. An instance of young, red, Devon-like cattle. More grass lands and hedge elms : a llat, rich, elm-tree passage. Some wide, highish, grassland ridges; as in Glocestershire and North Wiltshire: the first observed in this journey. Manv cows : apparently, a cross between the Devonshire and Glocestershire breeds *. Common fields, in wide, round ridges (as the grass lands). The crops — wheat, barley, and beans. The corn harvested, — the beans still in shuck. Now, grass lands near the road : pretty evidently produced from common arable fields, inclosed by piecemeal. Several extensive orchards are seen in this neighbourhood; at present heavily laden with • But see page 117, N. if99' WEST OF ENGLAND. it67 fruit : a large white apple is conspicuously AT. prevalent. south Red bulls, and many blood- red cows, are ^^saiREf^' here observable. But some white or dotted spines are still apparent. Beans are the most prevalent crop of this District : some now cutting; ! Cross a swoln brook ; the effect of inces- sant rain. INIany orchards. Some of them good ; but mostly crowded — too closely planted. See Glastonbury tower, at a considerable distance. How useful are towers, and other legible objects, to a traveller. They are in- telligent and faithful guides, that explain to him the relative situation of the more promi- nent features of the country around him ; and enable him to form an accurate idea of the connections and dependencies of its less conspicuous parts : beside being interesting, as conversable companions, that render his journey cheerful, and help him on his way. Somersetshire is singularly happy in having many of these intelligible guides. Some light-colored black-and-white cattle. An extent of strong deep clayey country. Much of it still in a state of common field, and MINUTE?. Oct. and now as wet as mortar ! The plow at rest, on green fallow grounds, in the height of wheat seed time ! What folly to fallow lands of this nature, for wheat ! Neat limestone buildings, covered with pantiles. More extensive orchards. The propor- tional quantity of orchard ground equal, I think, to that in the fruit Districts of Here- fordshire and Glocestershire. The road team, still, four horses, at length. Pass over a very cold clayey swell : the clods of clay falling, or breaking down into granules, as lime. Still pass between extensive common fields, which are, uniformly, fenced from the road : thus giving the country some appearance of being inclosed : the road (of blue clay stone) leading through well fenced lanes. Cross the Roman road. Piles of coals, and a weighing machine. Cold stubble lands, overrun with coltsfoot. A fallow field dunged ; and some of it, in a state of mortar, now landing up for v^heat I None yet sown. The plow team four loose-formed horses, at length. 1799' WEST OF ENGLAND. ^^9 Another very cold swell of land ; yet many 47. large orchards seen ? * south Tall, stone-slab fences. And pass between shire. extensive quarries of blue claystone (a species of limestone or marble) ; lying in horizontal strata, with scams of earth between them ; as in the Vale of Glocester, &c. The pits now nearly full of sheer blue water. Many men at work, dressing and polishing large slabs, for different purposes. Some of the lower strata are nearly black — very dark blue. The perfect horizontality of the strata is remark- able. An extent of fine vale country, with much hedge timber, breaks on either hand. liCave the cold claystone lands ; and enter upon a warmer richer soil f . Observe many neat pantile roofs, in this neighbourhood : the tiles in a good form ; riatter, the curves easier, than those of the North of England. Catch a wide rich view to the left (the Vale of Ilchester), and descend steeply to- wards Somerton. Some * The calcareosity of the base of those lands may serve to account for the prevalence of apple orchards. t For former remarks on this part of the road, see page 97. > MINUTES* Oct. 47. Some barley still out. The tithe standing in cocks ; with a herd of swine in the field! An extensive flat, — doubtlessly a "moor," — covered \n ith water. Some good bullocks, in rich but bare pas- tures ! How is the stock of the country to be supported, through the ensuing winter ! Another extensive moor under water. Ascend a steep rise to Somerton. SOMERTON TO LANGPORT. (About Five Miles.) Some ox yokes leaning against a farm yard wall : the first observed in this journey. Rise, bv gentle ascent, a tame swell of cold limestone land ; naked of hedge trees ; and enter the common-field District, be- tween Somerton and Langport* ; leaving a rich wooded bason, round Somerton. Numbers of sheep, and many cattle now on the corn stubbles of these fields. A few beans still out. The hills of East Devonshire, and the Southwestern margin of Somersetshire, break into the view. And, now, an expanse of * For former noUccs on this line of road, see page 94. 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 271 water arrests the eye ! A thousand, or per- 47. haps some thousands of acres appear, above south T 1 1 T 1 3 rrr SOMERSET- and beJow Langport, — down toward laun- shire. ton and Bridgewater. The widest Sedge- moors seem to be entirely covered : thus realizing what my imagination had con- ceived ; and showing what every spring tide, no. doubt, heretofore exhibited. * Leave the bleak, naked limestone downs ; and descend toward Laxgport. Very many beans still out : and some mea- dow hay in cock, and in swath ! LANGPORT TO CHARD. (About Fifteen Miles.) Observe four oxen in yoke : the first. Cross the Parret ; — deep rich land on its banks. Many apple trees in hedges : at present well laden with fruit. Enter upon a rising ground of good grass land, with a calcareous base. Leave * Much corn land (probably in the recent inclosures of the Sedgenioors) it is said, is likewise under water ; the farmers being now reaping their barleys in boats ! cutting off the ears that swim on the surface, or stand above the water ! MINUTES. Oct. Leave the Taunton road ; and turn off to- wards Chard ; at Curry Rivel. JMore oxen in yoke. Descend into a flat, rich, elm-tree passage: with large orchards ; and some old grazing grounds. Cattle uniformly red, on this side of the Parret. Sheep large, but of a loose frame. Mile-stones universally illegible: shame on those who have the charge of them ! * Now mostly grass land ; with some ant- hilly grazing grounds. A broad water appears on the right. Rain! incessant rain ! A large moor, on the left, entirely covered : a fine lake ! Pass large suites of pasture grounds ; and skirt an open moor ; mostly free from water ; stocked with sheep ; and \\ ith geese, — uni- formly grey. Re-enter inclosed lands : good red cows, and large loose sheep, in tolerable pastures. Reach the foot, and wind round the end, of an inclosed ridge of deep loamy land. Many foul fallow grounds, in a most helpless state ! Some old hay — the first observed^ I believe, in this journey ! * How readily, and at how liule expence, they might be made legible; by painting the figures of a color differing from that of the stones. 1799. WEST OF ENGLAND. fl7< Cross the Isle, and a marsh-like flat of rich 4;. | sound land. south More good red cows; with lank sheep; ^^shirs^ nibbling the bare ground! and their poverty may, in some part, apologize for their ap-* pearance. Arrish mows of wheat ; securely capped with ''reed." Fatting bullocks, on pretty good latter^ math: the first tolerably good aftergrass I have observed. A rich passage with well timbered hedge- rows. JNIore bullocks in good pastures. Cross a brook ; with rich flat lands on its banks. Some clean Devonshire-like cowS. Beans in arrish mows : the first instance of the kind I remember to have seen. Ascend a steep hill, with its face carv^cd into lynchets : — artificial flat stages with grassy steeps between them ; as on the chalk hills of Wiltshire, &c. A rich back view is commanded ; with the column of Burton Pynsent, in the distance. Now, a more extended prospect; with the Poldown and Mcndip hills, in the oftscape. VOL. II. T Bend ^iriSJUTES. Oct, l^end over the ridge : an extensive view breaks tbrward. Descend steeply to Ilminster; a neat market town ; in a charming situation ; a narrow, but rich and beautiml, valley ; with large orchard grounds hanging on its banks. Cross the valley, and rise a well soiled, w ell wooded s\\ ell of rich grass land. Cows in good grass : several instances of milking them in the field. Mostly valuable red cows, in good condition. Still grass land ; v\ith much hedge timber, and many pollards. . A thick, gloomy, rainy evening. Tlie day closes in (at five I) before Chakd. 48. ITQO. OcTOBERi Timber trees, like other products of the soil, have tlieir stages of growth, ripeness, and decay. There may be cases, in which it may be proper to hai-vest them, before they have reached the fidl state of ripeness. But it scarcely ever can be right Xo allow them (unless with a view to orna- ment) to remain on the ground, after they have reached that profitable state. Never- theless, it is stiil net uncommon (notwith- i7'99' WEST OF ENGLAND. 275 standing the long- alleged scarcity of timber for naval purposes) to see valuable groves and hedgerows of timber trees hastening down the stage of decay : thereby not only de-' creasing their own value, but preventing the growth of young trees; or keeping, in a state of waste, grounds that might be profitably applied. On every part of this estate there is much fine timber that is now fully ripe, and too much which has long passed that valuable state. It has, therefore, been thought judi- cious, to prevent the further waste of a spe- cies of property that is highly estimable, not only in a private, but in a public, light ; and to relieve the ground, as well as the under- growth, from the encumbrance of such full grown trees, as have reached the state of perfection. With a view to this desirable endj and in order to conduct, as well as to time, the business of sale, wdth due propriety, the fol- lowing enquiries have been made, of proft'S- sional men and others, who are conversant in the disposal of timber, in this District. The present prices, here, of timber of dif- ferent species ; as oak, ash, elm, &c. and the present price of oak bark ? T 2 The 48. MANAGE- ME- T CF TIMBER. SELLTVG TIMBER. > MINUTES. OcJi. •i^' The fjuantities of the ditfcrent species that i.TSG arc now in the market, or will probably be oti'ered for sale, during the ensuing seasons ? The particular species that are at present the highest in request, and are likely to meet with the most advantageous sale ? The description of buyers of the different species, in this country ; and the sizes of lots that are best suited to them ; so as to raise an emulation among them, and thereby ensure a fair market price, at a sale by public auction ? Satisfactory answers to these preliminary enquiries being had ; and it being thereby found, that the demand for timber in general is, at this time, above par, and that the price of oak bark is far above former prece- dents, no doubt was left as to the propriety of offciing some considerable quantity to sale, at the usual seasons for selhng timber in this . department : nameh", autumn, for ash, elm, &c. ; and spring, previously to the barking season, for oak. Instructions of the following purport were, in consequence, submitted to a capable and intelligent surveyor and auctioneer of timber and estates; in order to guard against the liavock and disfiguration of the face of a country, which is too frequently occasioned, ,799- WEST OF ENGLAND. bv an indiscriminate " fiiU of timber;" in ^S- which every thino^, that will bear a price, is selling TlMiiER. hurried into the ''Particulars of Sale." In making your selection for sale, of the timber of the manor of *, you will have the goodness to mark such trees, only, as appear to have reached, or nearly reached, their most valuable state of growth ; or such clean prime trees as have received irreparable injury, from the wind, or improper treat- ment; or such as are injuring younger trees, whose joint encrease will overbalance that of the more saleable timber : — Leaving, about farmsteads, and in con- spicuous situations, sightly groups and single trees ; altho thev mav be fully or nearly full grown ; provided they are not likely to go soon to decay : also a sufficiency of coarse trees, — such as might injure the sale of the more valuable timber, — for the ordinary cur- . rent repairs of the estate ; with some of a better quaUty, for gates and other particular purposes : also all trees in full growth (ex- cepting those above prescribed). In this, and every part of your important charge, looking * Overloaded with hedgerow trees; and containing much grove timber. T 3 MINUTES. Oct, looking fcnvard to another fall of timber, in the manor of , some fifteen or twenty years hence. 1804. Those instructions being readily followed up, with superior judgment, the appearance of the estate on which they were applied, notwithstanding the quantity of va- luable timl)er with which it supplied the markets, has been improved, rather than dis- figured, by the alteration. It is still a well woodvfd valley : — that of Yar-comb, on the Eastern border of Devonshire *. CoxDiTioxs OF Sale. The following con- ditions, under which the matured timber on diiFerent parts of this estate has been sold, I insert at length ; they being the fullest, and in many things the most judicious, and safest for the seller, of any that have fallen under my particular notice. For other conditions of sales of timber, see Midland Counties^ Mlnutes loOy 138, and 13Q. " 1st. — The highest bidder on each respec- tive lot to be the purchaser ; and if any dis- pute arise between tvs o or more bidders, the lot so in eiisputc to be put up again, or the * The surveyor aiid auctioneer, Mr. Bond of Axniinster. 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 2^9 biddings to go on from the last preceding that ^S. in dispute, at the discretion of the auctioneer. selliSjo ^ TIMBER. *' 2d\y. — The biddings to be one pound advance under one hundred pounds, two pounds from one to two hundred pounds, three pounds from two to three hundred pounds, and so on, one pound advance Upon every hundred pounds onv^ards. The auc- tioneer to be at hberty to bid once on each lot, for the benefit of the vender, or to sell to one bidder, if he chooses. " 3dly. — Each purchaser to pay down, im- mediately, a deposit of ten pounds per cen- tum, in part of the purchase- money, and to sign an agreement for payment of the re- mainder of his purchase-money, as follows, viz. — twenty pounds per centum more, on or before the 24th day of June I800*; — forty pounds per centum more, on or before the 29th day of September following ; — and thirty pounds per centum more, on or before^ the 24th day of June 1801. All which said payments shall be made in Bank of England notes or cash, or in bills of a respectable banking-house, drawn on a banking-house in London, payable on the respective days' aforesaid. " 4thly. * The day of this sale being the 4th of April 1800. T 4 MINUTES. Oct. ^8. " 4thlv. — Xo trees whatever to be rooted LING or grubbed that stand on the coppices, hedges, ID CD or hedge rows ; such trees only as stand on the open land may be rooted, the holes being properly filled up by the purchaser or pur- chasers, to the satisfaction of the vender, the tenant or tenants of the land ; with hbertv to sink or erect saw-pits at such convenient places as the occupier or occupiers of the rc- speciive lands shall approve of. " 5thly. — No timber to be removed from, or through, any of the corn fields, from the time the same are sown, till after the har\'cst; nor from or through tlie meadows, from the 25th of March, till after they be mown ; but the purchasers to have free liberty, at other times of the year, till the 29th day of Sep- tember J 802, to fell, cut down, cart, and carry away the said trees, with the lop, top, and bark thereof, along the usual roads, but no longer. " Ail timber, lop, top, bark, or other ar- ticles, remaining on any part of the said pre- mises, after the atbrc^id jQth day of Septem- ber 1802, to become the property of the vender. '• 0th. — Each purchaser to be answerable for injury arising from carelessness or \^ ilnd- 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 281 ness which shall be done to the trees, tellers, ^^• or saphns on the estate, not appointed for t^hV^o® side ; or to the fences, iinder\.%ood, corn, or mowing grass growing thereon; also by their horses or other cattle being permitted to browse in the closes or woods ; or in case any hedges or fences are pulled down for gateways, to come nearer to the principal roads ; or any other wilfal injury done more than is here expressed, the amount of the damage, in case the same cannot be other- wise settled, shall, within one month after tlie 5^me is committed or done, be referred to two indifferent persons, one to be chosen by each party ; and if they do not agree, by a third, to be chosen by those two ; and such satisfaction as they or their umpire agree on, shall be final. " 7thly. — If any purchaser shall remove a greater portion, or more in value of the said timber from the premises than in proportion to the instalments then made, such timber, bark, or any part thereof, shall at Duy time, or in any place, wherever the same shall be found, be lawfully seized by the vender, his agent or agents for the time being, and sold to make good such deficiency of payment, and all expences attending such seizure and re- sale. Sthly. MINUTES. Oct. 48. ** 8th]y. — Each purchaser, within fourteen days from tlie sale, to give a bond, in which he shall be joined by some person, to be ap- proved by the vender, for payment of the purchase-money in the manner before men- tioned, and for performance of the several conditions before contained, and not to re- move any of the timber until the same be executed ; and in default of giving such se- curity within such time, the lot to be re- sold, and the deficiency, if any, together with expcnces occasioned thereby, to be made good by the detaulter. The respective pur- chasers to pay for the stamps required for such bonds, and attend at some convenient place, to be fixed by the auctioneer, to exe- cute the same when required by him so to do, before the removal of anv of the timber." 49. 1700 November 10. General remarks, in travelling between Exeter and Okehamp- TON (twenty-two miles) : a portion of the great road between Ix)ndon and theLandsend. Elevation. The road traces a chain of heights of great elevation, comparatively with the Vale of Exeter ; but much beneath the Dartmorc mountain. 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 28^ The surface is truly Devonian ; large ro- 4Q. tund knolls, — hup'e semi-P"lobes, checkered exeter to as maps with lines or hedgewood, and sepa- ton. rated by deep narrow cooms, or irregularly winding vallies*. The cli mature is very backward. Some barley is still seen in the swath ! And some, at a distance, apparently uncut ! The eleva- tion, and the internal coolness of these hills (situated on the Northern skirts of the moun- tains) serve to explain this extraordinary fact. The central parts of Scotland are probably forwarder, this year (see the next Minute), than is the ceiiter of Devonshire. Waters. Numerous rills, and minor brooks, are seen trickling do\^'n the sides of the hills, or worming their way among them. The soils are chiefly, or wholly, of a schisto^is or slatey quality : — the prevailing characteris- tic of the soils of Devonshire. The substrata, as seen from the road, are likewise of a slatey nature; but a retentive subsoil is evidently detected, by the rushes and other marks of coolness, that are seen on the surface. The * Bowls, or other rotund bodies, cut in halves, and placed side by side on a table, would give a tolerably good idea of this part of the county. MINUTES. Nov. 4Q. Tlie road tolerably good; considering the season ! State of inclosure. The whole inclosed ; and mostly in large lields ; like other upland Districts of Devonshire. Products : — chiefly arable crops, on the flatter lands; grass, in the wider vallies; with timber, in the narrow bottoms ; coppice "Wood, on the hangs, and furze on the brows of the steeper cooms. The appearance — that of many other pas- sages of the county : — beautifully undulating surfaces, for several miles on every side: with Dartmore on one hand, and inferior moun- tain heights, on the other. Buildings : mostly earthen walls ; some of them roughcast : the covering — slate, ur reed. The fences — high, coppiced mounds. Beasts of draft. None at work (Sunday) ; nor any — either working oxen or cart horses — observ^ed. Saw nothing that bore any ap- pe^arance of animals of labor; except small mean pack horses ; which, probably, are still in full possession of these hills. Wheat, — much in arrish mows; and much already sown, for the next year's crop : these exposed heights being far before the Vale of i7cg. WEST OF ENGLAND. Exeter, in this respect : almost as the Cots- wold hills are before the Yale of Glocester. Cattle. How few are seen from the road. Those observed are of the Devonshire breed : but not pure, or good. The sheep — chiefly polled : but few seen ! Orchards are numerous; tho of less extent, here, than they are in the more genial parts of the county. In the state of husbandry, nothing promi- nent or striking appeared ; excepting the uni- versal yellowness of the turnep crop. The probable mean of improvement which struck in this cursory vie\^', is more effec- tive tillage, — tliereby gaining more produc- tive ley grounds, — and thus preparing for an encrease of livestock; in a country where ex- traneous manures must be difHcult to collect. 49. 5 o. 1799. November 11. This has, hitlierto, been the most untoward year, for the pur- poses of husbandry, Vvdiich perhaps this coun- try has ever experienced *. The * And the effects lamentable, beyond any thing expe- rienced in Diodera limes. Therefore, having had extra- ordinarv 1799. ► MINUTES. Nov. 50. The winter, and more particularly the spring, Avere severe in the extreme. In mountainous Districts, whether of England or of AVales, great numbers of sheep pe- rished, and more than half the lambs which v^^ere dropped died, through severity and want ! In some places, I was assured, scarcely a lamb was saved ! In Yorkshire, on the tifth of Aprils there was one of the severest storms of wind, frost, and sno\\-, ever known in that northerly part of the kingdom ; and the spring continuing cold, every mouthful of winter fodder might be said to be expended, before a blade of grass had sprung up to support cattle in the field! Kay was sold at eight or ten pounds a ton (in that remote part) ; and a surHciency was not to be had, at any price. Cattle in general were reduced to skeletons; and many of them had not, in the month of September^ quite recovered from their state of poverty and weakness. In the neighbourhood of London, only, hay was plentitul: owing, probably, to many of the horses, usually kept in Town, havirg ordinarv opportunities of remarking the progress and effects of its seasons, in the Island al large, I think it right to inseri then}, here; my observatious closing in VV'cst Devonshire. J 799- WEST OF ENGLAND. been drawn into the country by war's alarm; 50. and fed in camps and quarters*. When I left London, in Jtaie (by the Way of Bath, for Wales, and Scotland), com crops in England, were nearly a full month behind their usual state of growth, at that season. In South "Wales, thev were much in the same state of backwardness. But, what is remarkable, the vallies of the more mountainous Districts were equally or more forward, than the lower vale lands. And the same remark was made in passing through North AVales ; as well as among the moun- tains of Westmorland and Cumberland : the vallies at the foot of Skiddaw, between Kes- wick and Ireby, were, this i/ear, as forward, if not for\%'arder, than the fine vale lands round Wigtown, on the Southern banks of Sol way Firth. The singular wetness of the season may serve to explain this effect : — the more ele- vated lands were sooner freed from the extra- ordinary surcharge ; which by keeping the lower lands in a chilly state, during the early spring * In returning to London, from the north, in Sep- tember, the first old hay, observed, was in Hertford- shire : near Londoa, much was seen. 1799. 8 MINUTES. Nov* 50. spring months, preventeJ them from using Tr'z their wonted exertion, at ihat season. \9OSS0F . ^ *799' ■'^ ^"^ more southern provinces of Scot- land— Dumfriesshire and Ayrshire — the sea- son, in July, was nearly as forward as in En|:^kind ; tho behind its usual time. And the same was observable (some allow-ance being macle for cUmateJ through the Western Highlands ; by Inverary and the line of mili- tary road, and the forts, to Inverness. ill the Lowlands of Inverness and Nairn shires, the eftects of a cold wet spring were O'idently fek. In a common year, oat har- vest usually commences the first week in September : this year, it was not expected to begin much before the end of that month. On the 19th of August, barlies in general were still green some entering the red streaky state. But oats had barely protruded their pannicles, and were still green. Ne- vertheless, round Forres, only a few miles distant, but enjoying richer and warmer lands, fine crops of well ripened wheat were cutting, the 22d August ; some plots of bar- lev (or beer) were hkewise cut ; and the flax harvest at its height: while in the District of Buchan, situated on the same parallel of latitude, there was no prospect of corn har- vest, for several weeks to come ! 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. ft8< In passing thro' Fifeshire, by St. Andrews -50. and the coast, to St. Monance*, the 25th the August, 1 tound the corn crops nearly in the jy^g. same state as that in which I left them, in Nairnshire and Aberdeenshire : even the wheats were still mostly green ; some begin- ning to change : the flax harvest barely com- mencing. In travelling through part of East Lothian, from Dunbar toward Dunse, a si- milar state of crops was observable ; — corns in general were still green, and peas barely in blossom : — some particular fields of wheat and barley beginning to change. And even in the rich District of Dunse, which lies well to the sun, oats were still green as grass ; without any signs of harvest : — wheat and barley being yet green ! upland meadow hay, in cocks ; and some making f . Near Ber- wick, meadow hay making appeared to be at its height, this year, on the 27 th of Au- gust. Through Berwickshire, in that line of road, I observed only one instance (a piece of barley) of corn having, then, lost its green color. The * From whence T passed across the mouth of the estu- ary of the Forth, by the Bass Island, to Dunbar. t The first meadow hay observed, iu this journey. VOL. II. V MINUTES. Nov. 50. The same was remarked, between Ber\^'ick and Belford : — wheat and barley were still green. In the rich and warm bason of Bel- tord, one particular piece of wheat had changed, and appeared to be nearly ripe. In the low, flat, and fertile District of Bam- biirgh (on the sea coast between Behbrd and Alnwick), the state of crops was similar to that observed between Dunbar and Belford : some weeks, this year^ behind the District of Forres, in the North of Scotland ! Between Alnwick and Warkworth, on the rich lands towards Alnmouth — busy canying hay — some barley fast changing — and cats nearl}' ripe ; — \tt wheat was still green : and through the fertile vale District of ^^'ark- worth, to the valley of Morpeth, corns in general -were yet green ; the state of crops being nearly the same, there, as in Berwick- shire. And from thence to North Alierton (except in the neighbourhood of Darlington) nearlv the same state was observable : — some meadow hay in swath ; — some in cocks ; and much carried. — Corn, -in general, still green: ' — some particular fields, however, showing symptoms of approaching harvest. But there was no appearance, on the 30th August , of any thing, being ready to be cut, in less than 1799* WEST OF ENGLAND. 291 a fortnight from that time : — the weather 50. then cold, and incessantly rainy ! Toward the ' -^ "^ SEASONS op Thirsk, on warmer land, the crops were 1799. somewhat forwarder. In a general view, the vale of York may, this year, be reckoned a week or more, before Northumberland and the South of Scotland. In the vale of Pickering, a similar state of backwardness prevailed. Ix my way to town, the l6th and 17th of September, the state of han-est was as follows : Pickering to Malton. Reaping wheat of a dusky green color : — the straw almost rot- ten ; the grain puny and soft ! Not a well ripened yellow crop to be seen in the vale ; nor scarcely one that was standing : some of the flatter crops were grov^n through with weeds ; others with green shoots from the roots of the corn ! Round Malton (on drier, warmer, and more healthy lands) many bright yellow crops, — fully and evenly ripened : some, but not much, cut : mostly, however, in a state of forv/ardncss, or almost ready for the sickle : nearly in the same state, then, as the crops in the District of Forres were almost a month u 2 ago ! MINUTES. Nov. ago ! — full three weeks behind that favored spot ! ! York to Tadcaster. About half the wheat crop was cut. Barleys not yet ripe ; nor any thing well matured. In the neighbourhood of Doncaster (healthy limestone land), — corn, of every kind, well colored ; and much barley in swath. Near Newark. Corn in general cut ; and about half of it carried : — one stack thatched. But beans were every where still green ; or wore a dusky blighted appearance. Through Bedfordshire, &c. &c. ^Vlleat mostly carried. Barley partially carried : some still uncut. South of the Thames (from enquiry) har- vest was, then, nearly finished. Nevertheless, in crossing the higher downs of Hampsliire, the 20th of October, m my way, here, I observed one piece ot barley in swath : the only piece, however, which I saw between London and Salisbur)'. Between Salisbury and Hindon, my jour- nal has the following remarks. Leave the valley and reach the summit of the heights. Much barley in swath ; some in cocks ; and some yet standing! And further towards 2 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. ' Hindon — above Fonthill — more weather- 50. beaten barley ; and some oats uncut, — still ^ the ' ' ' SEASONS greenish ! 1799. Hindon to Stourhead Inn. Much standing barley; not more than half the crop, it is said, is yet cut, on these extensive bleak heights. And, again, — several hundred acres of barley are now under the eye, — in cocks, in swaths, or yet standing ! Even at the feet of the hills, and in the face of the sun, about Mere (on the cool clayey lands that usually accompany the feet of chalk hills) half the barley crop is still out, — some yet uncut. And, farther, — away from the im- mediate feet of the hills, — a large piece of barlev is still standing^, — in this vale District ! —with some oats yet green ; but, apparently, with suckers from the roots. How alarming the prospect ! The state of harvest, in the Southern parts of Somersetshire, appears in the foregoing detail (in Mixutj: 4;), being, there, consi- derably forwarder, than on the hills of AVilt- shire. But, on the eastern borders of Devon- shire, barley harvest was later, even than on the NVestern heights of Wiltshire ! On u ^ the J799- MINTTES. Nov. the 25 tb of Ocfohery the principal occupiers, in the valley of Yarccmb, had not, then, saved an acre of barley ! I Not, however, altogether, frora the lateness of the season of ripening, — the whole l>eing then cut ; — but, in part, from the clover and other herb- age, which rose, this wet year, with the barley crop *. In the Vale of Exeter, a more genial si- tuation, hanest '^-as, at that time, nearly, or entirely, finished. For its state between Exeter and Oke- HAMPTox, see the preceding Minute, 4Q. In this District, ^^'EST Devonshire, the hanest is now closed. 1 304 . The' foregoing detail of the progress of har%est, in 1790, is not merely a matter of interest, in itself; but may ser>e to fore- show the mournful eti'ects of a moist and cool summer, in this Island : — othen^isc, I • An ingenious and valuable expedient (under the ex- isting circumstances) was here embraced, by several farmers. The clover and weeds were shook out of the S'.vaih=, by hand, and given in their green state, to starving cattle : an expedient which might have been practised fn many other places, uitb great profit : a like mischief being that year general. '799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 295 might not have deemed it an object of pub- lication. The ensuing scarcity, of 1 800, was such as must, inevitably, have produced a deadly famine ; had it not been averted by a serious defalcation of the capital of the coun- try. And, surely, every mean ought to be devised, and carried into effect, which may tend to provide against a repetition of a dis- aster, so discreditable to its political eco- nomy, and subversive of its permanent pro- sperity. 50. THE SEASONS OF I799« 5 l/QQ. December 24. The following sketches of the Sea Coast of Devonshire, will serve to convey some general ideas of the Southern margin of the county ; which, before these cursory views, I had not traced. SEA COAST OF DEVON\ The first line,— between Plymouth Sound, and the estuary of the Exe, — was travelled on the sixth instant. In crossing the South Hams, scarcely a new idea, or one particularly interesting, arrested my attention ; excepting, that, be- tvveen ^fodbury and Dartmouth, a more rug- ged barren height meets the eye, in this line u 4 of ^nNUTES. Dec. of road, than I had before obserred ; and excepting that a greater number of farmsteads are now visible from the high road (the hedges being leafless) than were observable in my former excursion. See Vol. I. p. 269. The Environs of Dartmouth. Extraor- dinary passage ! Lofty banks rise on either «ide of the estuary of the Dart, — steep and high, almost, as Highland braes or first stages of hill in the face of a Grampian moun- tain;— the town of Dartmouth being stuck, alley above alley, against one of the steepest of these steeps ! Its situation is aukward in the extreme. It was not planned for car- riages. It is barely safe for pack horses to enter. The approach is steep as the roof of a house. Carriage horses slide into the place, on their haunches, down a slippery pavement The estuary, opposite the town, is half a mile or more in width ; but narrows towards the mouth ; which, combined with the cas- tle and other picturablc objects, as seen from the terrace walk, below Kings weir, alFords a most interesting view. Indeed, the envi- rons, in almost every point of view, are pic- turablc. Dartmoith, by Brixham, through the DiSTRICT of TORBAY, tO NeWTON BuSHEL, 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 297 and thence to Hall Down, on the banks of 51. the valley of the Exe. sea coast Elevation and surface. Between Dart- ^^^^^on. mouth and Brixham, the face of the country is raised into high, rotund hills, similar to those of the South Hams; but in a more tempestuous style, I think, than those of the most billowy passage of South or West De-* vonshire. Between Brixham and Newton', along the coast of Torbay, lies a flatter, less Devon-like passage: — a fine plot of vale lands. Northward of Newton Bushel, the ^ surface is abruptly broken, in the mountain- skirt manner. The chmature is evidently mild ; especially- near the sea ; where snow, it is said, seldom lies. Grass may be said to grow throughout winter ; many unirrigated grass lands are at present as green as gross wheat in the spring. Near Brixham is a field of lattermath, that is now bearing not less than a load of herbage, an acre ; and which is still kept for the pur- pose of fattening bullocks ! — on grass in the field — in the depth of winter ! Waters: — the Teign, with numerous ri- vulets ; and the broad sea of Torbay, at hand. The soils of this line of country, the more northerly part of it excepted, are of a supe- rior 49^ MINUTES. Dec. 51. rior quality; and along the coast, manv of 5t^ COAST them are of an extraordinary color : red, as oFDEvox. the redest oker ! The substrata, observed, were either slate rocks, or deep red loams : — a slate quarrv*, in work ;- — of a bright bJue color. Products :— chiefly those of mixed hus^ bandry. Very little wood appears ; except on the hedge mounds. Some orchards are seen in the vallies. General appearance : — various as the stvle of the surface travelled over, and the waters "which mix in the views. There are few lines of road, of equal extent, that are more in- teresting to a traveller. The second line, — between the estuary of the ExE, and Lyme — the Eastern boundary* of the countr}' — I travelled on the twenty- first instant. Elevation and surface. Mostly uplands, irregularly surfaced, and di^'ided by rivered vallies. Nothing of the vale character is observable, in this line of country- ; except on the banks of the Otter, about Otterton and Bicton ; and again round Coliton, on the banks of the Axe. But these vale pas- sages are mere dilations of the vallies ; and OF DEVON. 1799. WEST OF ENGLAND. 199 not of great extent. The estuary and valley 51, of the Exe are overlooked by a lofty line of sea coast hill ; rising boldly from the West ; but shelv- ing gently, eastward, into the valley of the Otter ; on the East side of which the tall, steep-sided, flat-topt hills, — that cliaracterize the more Eastern parts of Devonshire, and occupv no inconsiderable portion of the country, — commence. The soils of this quarter of the county are various. The Woodbury hills, which form the Eastern bank of the valley of the Exe, are mostly covered with black, heathy mold; partaking much of the mountain character. In the valley of the Otter, sandy loam, of a good quality, is prevalent. Eastward of this, the hills and the vallies are similar to those already described, in District the Sixth. The substrata are less obvious. They are chiefly, it is probable, of an earthy nature. Ko slate rock, or rubble, is (observable in this quarter of the county. Eastward of the Syd, are found, in detached masses, the different species of calcareous fossils, that are described in the last-mentioned District *. The * And beside those which are there noticed, another of a more unusual nature is found on the sea coast ; par- ticularly OF DEVON. 300 MINUTES. Dec. 51. The roads, eastward of the Otter (their SEA COAST steepness apart), are in general excellent: being formed with that remarkable species of base flints, which abound on the barren heights of East Devonshire. In a general view, this line of country affords great variety of scenery, and much picturable effect : — not owing more to the varied surface of the ground, and the wind- ing rivered vallies of the Otter, the Syd, and the Axe, frequently hung with wood, than from interesting views of the sea, with the smart towns on its coast, — Exmouth, Syd- mouth, Seaton,&c. — which incidentally meet ticularly about Beer, on the West side of the mouth of the Axe j and is known by the name of Beer Stone. This has been a freestone of great ceiebrity, during time immemorial ; being found in all the churches and ancient buildings in this quarter of the county. The quarry, or rather mine, out of which it is drawn is subter- ranean ; proceeding to a considerable distance, and spread- ing wide, beneath the hcfay of a hill : pillars being left to support the roof, or superincumbent pressure. It is white almost as chalk or pipe clay ; but it is of a grit-like texture ; which resembles that of the Portland, or rather the Purbeck, stone ; being free to work, but does not stand the weather well, in exposed situations. It is almost wholly calcareous. One hundred grains, dissolved in the marine acid, left in the filter only f ve grains of residuum j — a brown, friable, earthy matter. 1799- WEST OF ENGLAND. 30t the eye, in favorable points of view, and at desirable distances. If, in an open carriage, at Christmas, and directly in the teeth of one of the severest winds that ever blew over the face of this countrv, its charms were attractive, they surely cannot fail to fasci- nate, in a less rigorous season ! 51. SEA COAST OF DEVON. 52 1800. April 11. On my arrival at this place (Buckland) the latter end of March, I found the farm overburdened with cattle, and their winter fodder nearly exhausted ! Not more than a load or two of inferior bar- ley straw left, for near sixty head of straw yard cattle ; and the grass barely beginning to move : none for cattle to lay hold of, in the fidd : while in the young coppice woods that lie warm, I perceived a sufficient bite of herbage, — between the sapling stubs. The w hole of the cattle on the premises (the working oxen and cows in milk ex- cepted) were put into a large wood of four, five, or six years growth, from the last cut- ting ; and foddered witli a little inferior hay, once a day. Finding PASTURING YOUNG COPPICES 302 MINUTES. Afb!!. 52. Finding that they were doing well, with- pASTL-RiNG outiniurv to the coppice, and perceiving; that YOUNG /' ,, i'i COPPICES. another wood ot younger growth (namely, one, two, or three years), was a better pas- ture, I ordered the ycarhng and two-year-old stock to be kept in it, in the daytime, and to be taken out, in the evening ; that they mi2:ht do as little injury as possible to the tender shoots of the first year's growth. They grazed, filled, and licked themselves, as if they had been enjoying the richest grazing ground ! and this without the smallest injury to the young wood. I repeatedly stood among them, and saw them pasture with avidity, on the herbage, without otfering to touch a twio: of the trood. I was the more diligently attentive to the operation of this expedient, as the alarms of prejudice had pronounced it to be extremely dangerous : not only to the wood, but to the cattle, also. The buds of the birch, mountain sorb, and other soft woods are now beginning to s\^ ell; but even these remain untouched. How estimable is the spring pasturage of YOUNG coppices, fM^ycar; when cattle every- where are in a starving state ! (see Mi-v. 50.) And, under more ordinaiy circumstances, it mav be eli^rible to embrace the tran- iSoo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3«3 sient interim, hcttveen the springing of the 52. herbage and the opening of the tree buds, to pasturino O i C> v/ ' ^ YOUNG depasture store cattle, in fully stubbed coppice coppices. grounds. How valuable is a few weeks', or even a few days', support, at that season (when cattle are pining in the straw yard) : thereby giving the fields time to freshen! Care being of coui*se taken to remove them rn due time. April iG. Obser\'ed, for the first time, the yearlings beginning to browze on the foliating shoots of the birch. But this is serviceable, not injurious, to the rising coppice. The birch is a pernicious weed, in the coppice grounds of this country. The oak saplings still remain untouched. ^lai) 4. The young oak shoots being now beginning to foliate, and the pasture grounds having acquired a sufficient bite for cattle, they were this day taken out of the woods, in good condition ; and the young coppices securely shut up for the summer : — without the least appearance of their having been in- jured, by alibrding a month's sanitary sup- port of a large stock of cattle, at this critical juncture. 1 804. Not the smallest trace of injury has resulted, from this profitable expedient. 5Z. MINUTES, Afrii, 53. :>j>- 1800. April 11. Another inducement for prosecuting with solicitude the expedient, afore detailed, was the circumstance of a large ewe liock being left destitute (through necessity or neglect) of preserved pasturage, to support the suckling ewes in early spring. For altho the turnep crop of the farm was sufficient to keep the lambs in tolerable con- dition, the ewes were worn do wti to skeletons. See Vol. I. page 257. A judicious manager of this neighbour- hood * has had belter success with his ewe flock, this season, than any of his neighbours, — through a principle of management, wliich brings this important part of the sheep hus- bandry to a degree of perfection. He kept his ewes wholly on tumeps, until they yean- ed ; and, as they dropped their lambs, put them upon kept grass. The tumeps filled the ewe with milk for the support of the infant lamb, and the grass, afterward, maintained them both, in good condition. And another advantage results from this accurate practice. The turnep grounds being * Mr. John Wilcock, of Monks' Buckland, i8oo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 305. thereby early cleared, there is sufficient time to prepare them, properly, for the spring crop, and to sow this and the grass seeds in due season. 53. SPRING FOOD OF SHEEP, 54- 1800. May 20. An accurate method of putting in Cabbage Plants is here practised. Instead of a dibble, a mattock is used, in making the holes. The broad end, or hack part, of the tool is struck down into the soil, eight or nine inches deep, more or less, ac- cording to the size of the plants ; — and the handle being pressed downward so as to form a vacancy or opening behind the blade, the roots of the plant are inserted in it, and the tool carefully withdrawn, without ruffiing the fibres of the root. The plant is then raised into a more upright posture, with the mouth of the mattock inserted behind it ; drawing some mold pretty hard against the head of the plant, as a sort of bolster for it to lean against: finally, the soil, in front of the plant, is pressed with the foot ; in order to bed the fibres closely in the mold. The plants are carried by a boy ; who puts a single plant into the man's hand, at the in- voL. n. X stant PLANTING CABBAGES. MINUTES. May stant he is ready to insert it ; the man keep- ing his eye constantly upon his work. In the instance now under practice, the plants are put in at the distance of three feet, each way, by a feathered line ; being nearly live thousand plants, an acre. One man plants, in this manner, about a quarter of an acre, a day ; thus inserting twelve hundred plants, without extraordinary exertion. The advantages of this method, over that of planting with a dibble, are obvious : the hbres of the plants lie much straighter and easier in the ground, under this method of planting, than they do in the narrow-pointed holes of a round dibble ; whose sides are ne- cessarily compressed and rendered smooth ; consequently unfit for the tender fibrils of the plants to penetrate : whereas, in the practice under notice, the fibres arc spread ; and arc bedded in loose broken ground, gently pressed to the root. No hollowness is left ; nor any receptacle formed for water to chill the plants, should a wet season succeed the planting. And, in the event of a dry season succeeding, and especially when the season of planting is dry, the method here practised has its advantage ; as the plants are easily let down to a sutlicicnt depth ; even in a strong iSoo. WEST OF ENGLAND. soil; which is always to be preferred for Cabbages. Were I to suggest an improvement of this method, it would be to form a dimple, or dish, on the upper side of each plant, with a pavior's rammer; by this ready operation, not only establishing the plant more firmly, but forming a receptacle for the waters of hasty showers : thus conveying to the plants, from time to time, an extra supply of mois- ture. 307 54. PLANTING CABBAGES. 5S' 1800. August 3o. Travelling notes in North Devonshire, from Ilfracomb, by Barnstaple, to Torrington. Landed, this morning, at Ilfracomb, from Tenby, in Wales. The cliffs of Ilfracomb are of great height; and, to the East of the town, at the entrance of the harbor, they are nearly perpendicular: — exhibiting a broad face of slate rock, some hundred feet in depth; with large blocks, and irregular masses, of veined black m.arble (resembling that of Chudlcigh) buried in the slate rock ! One of those masses, situated at the base of x2 the NORTH DE- VONSHIRE. '308 MINLTES. Aug. I 55. the clitf, is at present worked as a limestone ' NORTH DE. quarry *. ^ The little harbor of Iltracomb, how secure ! AVhat pity it is not more capacious. The town, or rather large genteel village, is, as a sea port, singularly neat and pleasing ; and the women of Devonshire, how elegant and well featured. The grounds to the West of the town, — a narrow stage of rich and sweet- Iv surfaced land that intervenes between the foot of the steep and the sea, — well accord with the other accompaniments of this lovely little secluded sUp of country-. ILFRACOMB to BARXSTAPLE. (Ten Miles.) Ascend the high steep hill ! whose sub- structure is evidently slate rock (being, doubt- lessly, a continuation of the sea- worn clitF), which is here covered with soil of a good quality, and with a subsoil of slate rubble : — true Devonshire land. In the bare sea-worn * Gkolooical Remark. These fragments of marble, bcinff closelv bedded in the slate rock, show plainly that the latter was in a fluid, or a plastic, slate, at the time of their union. From this and other appearances of schistous productions, in diflcrent parts of the Island, thev appear to have originated from alluvious matter, de- po^ited m a state of mud. i8oo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 309 clilFx)f Ilfracomb, we probably see an into- 55. resting specimen of the internal structure of xorth de- the slate hills of Devonshire and Cornwall. voxshire. Reach the higher stages of the heights. A large llock of sheep ; apparently of an im- proved mountain breed : — with tall white pigs depasturing among them ! Extensive sea views, to the M'est and North. Lundy Island, and the Welsh coast. Cross over high and recently inclosed lands ; stocked with line young cattle, — of the ti^ue Devonshire breed : all red : a striking contrast to the true Pembrokeshire breed (still as it were in the eye) — all black ! Yet, in form, and agility in work, how great the resemblance. jNIore recent inclosures ; but of higher and meaner lands. Turn the summit of the height ; and exchange the sea view, for that of an ocean of black hills ; — the heathv sum- mits of barren heights ; \\'ith which North Devonshire abounds: its rich, cultivated lands being, in this point, hid from the view. Barnstaple Bay', and the estuary of the Taw, now break, on the right. Cross a succession of weakly soiled heights. Yet beautiful young cattle are seen, even in the lanes, on these high lands ! X 3 The > MINUTES. Aug, 55. The lower, richer parts of North Devon- shire are beginning to be disclosed ; dis- tanced by the Dartmore mountain. Cross a heathv common, stocked with horned sheep, of varied countenance : — simi- lar to the breeds of Dartmore, and other high barren lands of the West of England. The junction of the Taw and the Torridge, with their fertile banks, are now seen, as in a bird's view. No appearance of parched grass grounds, yellow as corn fields at har- vest, is observable, on this side of the chan- nel, as on the coast of Wales. Here, grass lands, in general, notwithstanding the ex- treme droughtiness of this summer, retain a greenness of color. Descend into the rich and well featured environs of Barnstaple ; through the fine suburb of Pilton : — a charming situation. BARNSTAPLE to TORRINGTON*. (Eleven Miles.) August 3 1 . Cross the Taw, by a long, narrow, incommodious bridge. A tlat of marshes on the left, — fully stocked with * By the direct road. For notes, between Torringtor| and Barnstaple, byBiddcford, see Vol. I. page 355. iSoo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3" North Devon cattle of the best blood. Also 55. some good, thick, poled sheep. north pe- ^,. , ... „ ... ^ VONSHIRE. Climb a steep-sided swell — a sohd mass ot slate stone ; and gain a rich back view, across the valley of the Taw. The fences, here, are invariably coppiced mounds ; with a few hedgerow elms, at their feet. Cross a wooded dip. The bottom cool pale-colored land. Climb another hill ; and get another inte- resting back view. Grass grounds still uni- formly green. Descend, and cross another vallev — of better land ; — to have another te- dious creep up along blind lane! how teasing to an qhaerver. Top the height — of pale, weak land; and have a Westward view, to near Hart land Point. Pass through a furze-bush waste ; and see extensive furze grounds. A wide-spread bason opens; filled with cultivated fields and wood. Still some good North Devon cows. The ley grounds, here, somewhat scorched, — and harvest mostly in. Ascend inclosed arable heights, — by into- Jerably steep roads ; and enter a vs ide extent uf under-productive coiuitrv : apparently ow- .\ i iUiT, MINUTES. Aug. ing, in some considerable part at least, to a want of tillage. See Stephen's Town, — a seat of Lord Rolle, on the left ; and descend towards Torring- ton ; crowning a goodly swell,-- distanced by well wooded scenery. Cross a fern-grown common ; with some pied cattle upon it : the first observed. Pass a small common field — " Lammas Land" — in the immediate environs of the town : — the only one observed, in this more Western part of the kingdom. General Remarks, in North Devonshire. The cUmoture of this quarter of the coun- ty varies w ith the elevation. Hanest may, at present, be said to have passed its height. Some corn is yet standing, on the hills ; and much, ever}' where, is still in the fields ; ex- cept in low warm situations. It is, this year, much in the same state of forwardness, as in Cheshire, Shropshire, Herefordshire, and on the lower lands of South Wales. The present verdure of the grass lands, here, is owing, I understand, to some timely rains that have recently fallen : while, on the op- posite side of the channel, the summer has been continually dry. i8oo. WEST OF ENGLAND; 3<5 The method of harvesting corn, in the line 55. of country now travelled over, is different, north de- r ^ir J VONSHIRE. this year at least, from that of West and South Devonshire ; as well as from that of the Southern coast of Wales : where arrish mows are universally prevalent : w hereas, not one has met the eye, between Ilfracomb and Torrington. Near the former, I observed wheat set up in fours, with a fifth sheaf in- verted, as a hood : and oats in threes, un- covered. Toward the latter, large stacks of corn are seen standing in the areas of fields ; each containing, apparently, the produce of the field it stands in. How various are the established practices of harvest ! The North Devonshire breed of cattle do not appear to be in full possession of the country, farther westward, than the Western banks of the Taw. Nevertheless, on the higher grounds that separate the valley of the Taw from that of the Torridgc, and even on the Western banks of the Torridge, between Torrington and Hatherley, not only cows, but young cattle, of a superior quality, are more or less observable : an evidence, that this valuable breed of cattle are spreading westward ; and they doubtlessly ought to possess the entire country : — provided their sizes, MINUTES. Aug. 55. sizes, in different situation, were suitably adapted to the soils and climatures of the lands, by which they are to be supported. 56- 1800. October 29. This year, a*? the last (see MiN. 50), has been strongly charac- terized. The spring months were extremely wet : the summer still more remarkably dry : there being scarcely any rain, in the Island at large, between seed time and harvest ! The effects of these extraordinary seasons have been various ; according to the different natures of the lands on which they have ope- rated. The drought setting in suddenly after the rains, deep clayey soils were cemented ; and the crops, especially of wheat, were thereby much injured : while those on thin open lands were cut off, in summer, for want of moisture. In Scotland, particularly, I ob- served much wheat that was still in the bladed grassy state, changed to the yellow harvest color, before it had shot an ear ; par- ticular plots being scorched, as by fire, to the roots. But, on loamy soils, of a good depth and i8oo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3*5 middling texture, crops in general were re- 56. markably fine. So many full, yet standing, the crops of wheat I never before noticed. Bar- ^^^jgoo. lies, where they rose well from the seed, were also remarkably fine ; and oats, on this de- scription of land, were above par. Beans universally good. But the most remarkable effect, of the ^"^J^^^ seasons of the present year (1800) is that of WHEAT being, in particular situations, injured by BLIGHT, or MILDEW, — iu a dry summe7\ In this District (the Vale of Exeter) many fine-looking full crops were, in a manner, cut off by this malady : the straw becoming black as soot, and the grain shrivelled and hght. In one instance which I particularly attended to, it was barely worth the labor of thrashing out ; even at the present prices! owing, however, in some considerable de- o-ree, I apprehend, to the imprudence of the grower ; who suffered it to stand, to ripen, after the blight had seized it : while a more judicious manager, in this quarter of the county*, by cutting his wheat, as soon as he perceived it to be struck with the disease, preserved it, he believes, from material injury. This f Mr. Smith, of Axminstcr. WINL'TES. Oct. This precaution, however, it is very pro- bable, ninet} nine growers in a hundred did not take : and the country may have lost, in the most alarming hour of scarcity, some hundred thousand quarters of wheat ; by this one defect in English agriculture I * 1804. A similar, but more universal, ef- fect took place, this summer; \shich has likewise been characterized by dryness ; at least, in those parts of the Island in which ray observations have been made. On my return from South Wales to Lon- don, early in September, wheat crops evi- dently appeared, by the dark hue of their straw, or their stubbles, to have been more or less blighted : excepting in a few instances, in Glocestershire, and others in Oxfordshire; in which instances, only, strong, yellow, healthy stubbles were obser\'able. The CAUSE of the disease, in the country in which I had the best opportunity of ob- ser\ing it (Caermarthcnshire), appeared, very evidently, to proceed from some COLD RAINS, which fell about the middle of Au- gust. Before that time, wheat crops in ge- • See the Rural Ikonomy of Glocestershire, for re- marks on this important point of management. iSoo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3^7 neral looked healthy, and were beginning to 5^- change to a bright color. But presently after blight of a few cold wet days, the malady became obvious to the naked eve. The straw lost its smooth, varnished surface ; being occu- pied by innumerable specks ; which changed, in a few davs, in less than a week, to a dark or blackish color ; giving the straw a dusky appearance *. A gentleman of Caermarthenshire, who is attentive to agricultural concerns, is of opi- nion, that this destructive disease may be prevented, by sowing old seed; namely, wheat of the preceding year's growth, instead of new wheat ; agreeably to the practice of the Cotswold Hills of Glocestershire. I am much inclined to think, that, by solving early, agreeably to that practice (see Glocestershire, II. 5l), this fatal disease might frequently be avoided ; early ripe crops being, from all the observations that I have hitherto made, the * Devonshire had its rains in the ripening season of iSoo, — see page 312. A third instance of the bhghl of wheat, succeeding rain, was observed in the same county, in 1794, and is noticed in page 251 aforegoing. And a fourth was equally obvious, in 1785, in the Midland Counties : as may be seen \i\ the Rural Economy of that department ; Minute 74. MINUTES. OeT. the least subject to its baleful elfect. Corn which ripens under the hot summer sun of July is not so liahh to cold chilling rains, as that which remains unmatured, until the sun begin to lose its po\N er, and the nights to encrease in length and coolness. A cfrtain preventive of this disaster would be a discovery worth millions to the country. Until this be made, let the grower of wheat, not only endeavor to sow early ; but let him look narrowly to his crop, during the critical time of the fillhig of the grain ; and when- ever he may perceive it to be smitten with the disease, let him lose no time in cutting it: suffering it to lie on the stubble, until the straw be firm and crisp enough, to be set up in sheaves, without adhering in the bind- ing places : — allowing it to remain in the field, until the grain shall have received the nutriment which the straw may be able to impart. Where wheat has been grown on " lammas land," and the ground obliged to be cleared by the first of August, crops have been know n to be cut, " as green as grass," and to be carried off and spread upon grass land, to dry. Yet the grain has been found to mature; and always to afford a fine-skin- ned beautiful sample. Raygrass that is cut. i8oo. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3^^ even while in blossom, is well known to 56. mature its seeds, with the sap that is lodged blight of in the stems. Hence, there is nothmg to fear, from cutting wheat or other corn, be- fore the straw be ripe. 1805. April. That the opera/?ow of this disease is carried on by the fungus tribe, evi- dently appears, from the ingenious and per- severing labors of botanists *. But fungi, it is equally evident, are an effect, not the cause of the disease. They are the vermin of the more perfect vegetables ; and flisten on them, whether in a dead, or in a diseased, state ; but seldom, I believe, while they are in full licalth and vigor. Their minute and volatile seeds may be said to be every where present, — ready to produce their kind wherever they mav find a genial matrix. Such, at least, appears to be the nature of the fungus, or fungi, of wheat ; for it may be liable to the attack of more than one species. In a dry warm summer, which is well known to be favorable to the health, vigor, and produc- tiveness of the wheat crop, the seeds of fungi are harndess, so long as the fine weatlicr conti^ nues. * As they are set forih in a paper, jusl published, by Sir Joseph Banks. MINUTES. Oct. 7ines. On the contrary, in a cold wet sea- son, which gives languor and weakness to the wheat plants, few crops escape, entirely, their destructive effects. A standing crop not imfrequcntly escapes, while plots that are lodged in the same field, especially in pits and hollow places, become liable to their attack. And, by the facts above stated, we plainly see, that even strong healthy crops may, in a few days, or perhaps in a few hours, be rendered liable to be assailed ; — not progressively, as by an infectious disease; but, at once, as by a hlast or blight. In the STATE of the ATMOSPHERE wc are to look for the cause of the disease, in a standing crop : and nothing is so likely to bring on the fatal predisposition of the plants as a succession of cold rains, while the grain is forming. The coolness necessarily gives a check to the rich saccharine juices which are then rising to- wards the ear ; and the moisture may, at the same time, assist the seeds of the fungi to germinate and take root. Thus reason and facts concur in pointing out the cause, and the OPERATION, of the disease *. The natu- • There appear to be two reasons why corn which happens to be struck with this disease, in a dry warm •ummcr, is exposed to excessive injury ; as facts pretty WHEAT. 1800. WEST OF ENGLAND. 321 RAL EVENT is too Well known : and it is the 56. BUSINESS of ART to cndcavor to prevent it. blight of If, by cutting down the crop, as soon as it is found to be diseased, the operation can be stopped, — as experience, in different in- stances, has shown that it may, — the remedy is easy *. A pro- evidently show that it Is. The habits of the plants fen- der them more susceptible of injury — their rich juices more liable to be checked — and the seeds of fungi, it is probable, are more widely, if not more plentifully, distributed, — by such a state of the air, than they are by a cool moist atmosphere. * It may be asked in what manner the remedy is thus effected. But, to the practical farmer, the fact is all that is required. To him, it is equally as indifferent, to know the operation of the remedy, as the operation of the disease. Those who have profited by the remedy, here recommended, believe, that it " kills the mildew." (See Glocestershire, Vol. II. p. 54.) And if it shall appear, that the fungus of wheat requires a free supply of air, to keep it alive, or in a state of health and vigor, the effect of cutting down the croj) will be explained. It will perhaps be found, by experience, that the closer it is allowed to lie upon the ground, and the sooner it is bound up in sheaves (provided the natural ascent of the sap to the ear be not thereby interrupted), the more ef- fectual and complete will be the remedy. Further, it may be suggested, on the evidence of atten- tive observation, that if wheat, which has been attacked by this disease, be suffered to remain in the field, with VOL. II. Y the ', MINUTES. Oct. 56. A probable mean of prrvezntion is that of inducing early ripeness (for reasons above offered) ; either by solving early ; or by for- cing manures ; or by selecting and establish- ing EARLY VARIETIES— of wheat most especially ; — as early varieties of peas, and other esculent plants, are raised by garden- ers : — a work \\'hich only requires ordinary attention ; and which, it is hoped, will, with- out delay, be set about and encouraged, by eveiy attentive grower of wheat, and every promoter of rural improvements, in the united kingdom. For the method of raising and improving varieties of wheat, see the Rural Economy of Yorkshire, Vol. II. page 4. the ears exposed, until it may have received the amelio- rating influence of dews, or moderate rain (to soften, relax, and assist the natural rise of the sap), the more })roductive it will probably become. See Minutes of Agriculture, in Surrey, No. 4. And it may be still further added, that grain^ which is cut while under ripe, is less liable to be injured in the field, by moist weather, than that which has stood until it be fully or over ripe. 18*5. WEST OF ENGLAND. 323 57- «7. I801. June 17. Notices, in travellins; south *^ SOMERSET. across the southern District of Somerset- shire. SHIRE ; — from Ilminster, by Ilchesterj and Castle Carj, to \Yincaimton. Ilmixster to Ilchester. The deration of this hne of country is inconsiderable : the whole passing through an extensive vale District. The surface, on the Ilminster side of the vale, is finely swelling ; and preserved the vale character to n^ar Ilchester ; where a wide level of water-formed lands occupy what was once, it is probable, an estuary, or wash, into which the tide occasionally flowed. The rivers, in this line of road, are the Par RET, and the Ivel, or Eovil ; the former being crossed toward the midway ; the latter (which is the main river of the vale, but changes its name on its junction with the Parret, near Langport), at Ilchester. The soil is of an extraordinary nature, and uniformly of a superior quahty. It has the appearance of a cold, weak, infertile clay; Y 2 but MINUTES. JcKE 57« but is, in reality, a rich silt, or mud, — and mostly incumbent, I apprehend, on a calca- reous base ; producing, in singular luxuriance, the various crops of English agriculture. The ordinary farm products that meet the eye, at this season, are wheat, barley, beans, peas, potatoes, fiaxy cultivated herbage, mea- dow grass, and pasturage ; with much or- chard ground ; and with more orchard frees in hed scroll's, than I have elsewhere observ- ed ; — the District of Broomyard, in Here- fordshire, not excepted. llie cattle observ^able in this interesting stage are numerous, and uniformly of the Devonshire or West-Somersetshire breed. The general appearance of the countiy is that of a rich vale ; strongly featured, by bold rising grounds, and bounded by interest- ing distances ; with the more distant hills of Wiltshire rising high in the ofFscape. Ilchester to Castle Cary. The flat of marshes lies chiefly on the ^^'est side of the river; on which the town is situated. On the East side, the lands, tho low, rich, and nearly level, are not water-formed ; being situated a few feet above the marshes, and show a varied surface. i8or. WEST OF ENGLAND. 325 Thin, low, rich lands extend some three 57. or four miles from the town ; and, on their south confine, a somewhat higher, but still nearly shire. level, stage of land rises ; and continues, without great variation of surface (but with rising grounds sufficient to show off the richness and beauty of the country), to Castle Gary. The lands, on this side of the vale, differ much, in their nature, from those on the West side. The low grounds, towards the town, are of a strong clayey texture ; and judging from their apparent coolness, they are probably incumbent on a base of a kin- dred nature. But leaving these, and rising the second stage of land, the base is evidently limestone ; tho the soil continues of a clayey quality. Further eastward ; a lighter lime- stone loam succeeds : this fertile line of coun- try terminating in the rich deep lands of Almesford and Castle Cary. At Castle Carv, ascend the same stao;e of limestone lands that was crossed between Redlynch and Castle Cary (see page 20-1), and which continues with little, if anv, inter- ruption, to AViNCAUNTON : — a description of lands that appear to occupy some consi- derable extent of this quarter of Somerset- shire, y 3 58, ^ MINUTES. Jan. ;8. 58- 1802. Jaxuary I t. Cursory Remarks, in travelling between Crewkern and II- CHESTER ; and thence, by the direct road, to WiNCAU>"TON : ^vith general remarks on the Vale of Ilchester. The road winds judiciously among the tall steep hUls, in the neighbourhood of Crew- kern, and enters the same extensive tract of vale land that was crossed, bv another line, between Ilminster and Ilchester (see the last Minute) ; joining the Ilminster road, in a central point ; near six miles distant from each of the three places. The richness, productions, and general ap- pearance of the country are similar, in this and the former line ; except that a greater proportion of grass lands, and especially of flat water-formed meadows (by the sides of the Parret) are seen in the Crewkcni quarter of the vale. Pass through Ilchester, and tlve or six miles further eastward, by the former road ; leaving it at Sparkford, and presently wind- ing in, among the Cadbury hills, and other i8o2. WEST OF ENGLAND. 32; limestone heights which divide this vale from 58. , that of Sherburn, or Blackmoor, in Dorset- south chirp SOMCRSET.| snire. SHIRE. This line of road is well drawn ; worming its way, through rich meadowy lands, and well cultivated vallies. The line of countr>' from Queen-Camel Hill to ^yincaunton is finely surfaced; and, by a few alterations in the present line of road, may be made delightful to travel through ; — even at this season. GENERAL REMARKS ON THE YALE OF ILCHESTER. This highly favored passage of the West vale OF ot England ; which, in fertility of soils, and ilchester. richness of features, is rarely to be equalled in the kingdom at large, may be said to be unknown to the rest of the Island ! From the time that the Roman fossway, which crossed it, was suffered to go to decay, until the present toll roads Avere formed, the area of the vale, especially on the West side of the river, must have been impassable, in the winter months ; unless by its native inhabit- ants. Hence, not a habitation, superior to V 4 a farm : MINUTES. Jan. 58. a farm house, is there seen : w hile its banks, on every side, are scattered, not with resi- dences only, but with market towns of more or less consideration. In this and other respects, the Vale of II- chester bears some resemblance to the Wealds of Kent and Sussex: its superior richness, and the greater natural beauty of its sur- rounding banks, and internal features, form- ing its ditferential character. Its boundary, toward the South, has been mentioned. On the North, it is closed by the projecting hills of Langport and Curry, which approach so near to each other, as to leave little more than room for the waters of the vale and its banks to pass off, into the wide vale of Bridgewater; which reaches from this outlet to the sea. On the P2ast, it is bounded by the range of low-lying lime- stone lands that has been repeatedly noticed ; and, on the West, by the rising grounds between Crewkern and Chard, and the higher lands, between Chard and Ilminster. The towns of Langport, Somerton (partially cut off by a narrow point of the Langport hills). Castle Cary, the Cadburys (villages), Yeovil, Crewkern, Cliard (at a short distance), and Ilminster, may be said to stand on its mar- i8o2. WTIST OF ENGLAND. 329 gins; which form nearly an oval ; with the 58. town of Ilchester situated w^ithin its area ; — vale OF nearly in its Eastern focus : — the greater part ilchester. of its lands lying on the West, or Southwest, side of the river. The exact extent of these vale lands is dif- ficult to be calculated. From Chard to Castle Cary is about twentyfive miles, in a straight line through the middle of the vale. But the vale lands do not reach the whole length. And from Langport to Yeovil — the shorter diameter of the oval — is more than ten miles. But within these dimensions are included, in different parts of the area, some high grounds that do not bear the vale character. On these premises, the vale lands may be estimated at one hundred and fifty to two hundred square miles. The natural characters and agricultural pro- ducts of those lands have been noticed. Their state of husbandry is at present equal, or su- perior, to that of the more Western depart- ment at large. And it only remains to re- mark, with respect to the rural economy of this vale, that in it we discriminately trace the Eastern termination of theDANMONiAN breed of CATTLE. About Wincaunton, and from thence towards Ilchester, the party-colored 2 cows MINUTES. Jan. co\^-s of East and North Somersetshire are in full possession of the countn-. On ap- proaching lichester, a few individuals of- the well framed, beautiful, red breed, are seen mixed with the colored variety. But on crossing the river, the red breed is in like possession ! A more striking transition I have no where observed. The Devonshire, or West Somersetshire, breed of cattle are near- ly as pure, and as free from marks of debase- ment, on the Western banks of the Eovil, as on the banks of the Tamer, in the West of Devonshire. In a political view, it may be said of these vale lands, that, notwithstanding their ex- treme fertility and productiveness, they have been lying, century after centuiy (until of late years), in a state of obscurity and neg- lect, through the want of sulhcient roads across their area *. The town of lichester, which was a Roman station of note, and once, perhaps, the principal place in the county, has dwindled to a mere village. 1 lad it not bce!i for the circumstances of its being * At present, lines of good rends are singularly nume- rous ; — are seen crossing the area, in every direction. Tlie first line of turnpike was begun, about forty years ago. i8o2. \\T:ST of ENGLAND. a borough town, and of the county jail still standing here, (having been lately new-built, tho the assizes are never held at less than fifteen or twenty miles distance ! j there might not, now, have been one stone left upon another. Yet, extraordinary as it may ap- pear, Ilchester is situated nearly in a direct line between the metropolis and the Western extremity of the kingdom : in the straight road between London and Exeter, Plymouth, Falmouth, &c. Of the two great Western roads that have been travelled, age after age, one lies twenty miles to (he South, the other thirty miles to the North, of Ilchester ! — which is not only in the nearest (by several miles), but in theinost travelable hne of road (with respect to hills) between those extreme points ; as will be shown in the following Minute. 58. 59 1802. January. I had two motives for exploring the Vale of Ilchester (see the last Minute) : one of them was to gain some knowledge of that intermediate District ; and the other to endeavor to trace cut the most eligible o MINUTES. Jak. eligible line of road, between the metropo- lis and the more western counties. The late Sir Francis Buller appears to have had the merit of first endeavoring to strike out a new line of road, between Lon- don and the Landsend, — shorter than either of the present lines (see the foregoing Mi- nute) : and his friend, Mr. Fanshawe, Re- corder of Exeter, &c. &c. who is ever atten- tive to matters of improvement, trod in his steps. But their favorite line, by Heytes- BURY, Bruton, &c. to Ilminster, is evi- dently indirect ; bending too much to the North. The more direct line, between Lon- don and Exeter, &c. as well as between the two nearer given points of Andover and Honiton, is by jNIere and Wincauntox. Ameshury and Ilchcsfer are still nearer given points; and Deptford Inn, Willoughby Hedge, Mere, and Wincaunton, lie in a direct line between them *. And what gives this line a further preference, is the circumstance of its being already formed ; — the entire line, to Ilminster, being, at present, turnpike road; — and continues, such, from Ilminster, by Chard, to Honiton. But Chard is situated out of the direct line ; and the road, between • See Gary's large map of England, i8o2. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3: that place and Honiton, is intolerably unle- 59. vel. Hence, a new road, between Ilminster new line J TT • • 1 • 1 1 1 T OF ROAD. and tioniton is desirable ; — and an apt line fortunately presents itself; — winding round the heads of the deep vallies that are crossed by the Chard road ; yet is nearer, by some miles, than the present line. 1804. Being thus strongly impressed with ideas of the great usefulness, as well as the evident practicability, of the alteration, and encouraged by my friend, Lord Heathfield, w hose anxious desires to promote public im- provements are such as few men possess, I was induced to bestow some time and thought on bringing it before the public. A surveyor of the first eminence was in- structed to draw out a sketch of the two lines of roads ; namely, the present line, by Dorchester, and the proposed line, by Wincaunton ; as well as to ascertain and re- port such facts, as a cursory surv^ey, and lo- cal knowledge, might furnish. The annexed engraving will give a general idea of the proposed improvement ; and the following Report will show, more fully, its uses and practicability. Re PORT MINUTES. Jan. 59- EWLiNR "Report on the annexed Plan of Roads, *^ ^^''^^- between IIomtox and Andover. " The present post road from Honiton, through Dorcliester and Salisbury, to Ando- ver, is - - - - g2i miles. " The proposed post road from Honiton, through II minster, II- chester, Wincaunton, &c. to An- dover, is - - - 85 i Saving in the distance near^ u-.u ( 7 miles; one twelfth, or - J ' besides, what is much more important, nearly four hours in point of time, by avoiding all the long steep hills, between Dorchester and Honiton ; which is very great, when it is considered that Falmouth is the po£t town for the merchants of London and other places of commerce, for their correspondence with more than half the trading world. This pro- posed road may therefore be viewed as a great mercantile advantage to the nation in general, independent of individual accommo- dation, to the nobility and gentry of Devon and Cornwall, and others resorting to the Southern shores of these counties. '* Another striking advantage of the pro- i8o<. WEST OF ENGLAND. 335 posed line arises on the road from Exeter to 59. Bath. The distance, bv the present road, kewline • p . OF ROAD. through launton, Bridgewater, &c. is 82§ miles. But, by the proposed new road, it will be no more than 'jo miles, viz. Exeter to Ilchester - AZ miles; Ilchester to Shepton Mallet 1 5 Shepton Mallet to Bath 1 7 T^ miles; thus saving, in distance, near one tenth oi the \^'hole. ** Estimate of the Expe^'ce of the New Road to be made betivcen Hoxiton and Ilmixster *. *' The new road will not exceed eleven miles, and I am of opinion that ten will be found sufficient ; and, as it will go through a country full of inexhaustible quarries of tiints and gravel, the cartage of materials, to make and keep the road in repair, will be found easy. One stone arch, over the river Yar, in a part where the stream is small, being near its source, is the only bridge re- quired. The * Shown by the dotted liacs ia the plan. MINUTES. Ja!^. The road may be formed and made, ^ at about _ _ - - looo Purchase of land, for the same, about 50 Building the bridge, about - - 250 Total - .^'1300 " I am of opinion thatl^isoo is the ut- most the whole can cost ; and that no part of the road, if properly laid out, will rise above three inches to a }-ard ; which is fair trot- ting road for a chaise and pair, going either way *. " W. BOND." Axm'nisfer, 22(2 Feb. 1802. Copies of the engraving, together with the above Report in a printed form, have been distributed anionf>- those who are interested in the execution of the design -f. I insert * The above estimate appears to be low. But were the road to cost three times the sum, it is more than probable, tliat the tolls would amply repay the interest ; as the expencc of repairs would be small ; the materials being durable, and at hand. The sanction of Parlia- ment may be said to be all that is wanted. t A survev was afterward taken of the proposed line of new road between Honiton and Ilmlnsterj a sketch of it engraved ; and distributed, as above. INSERT FOLDOUT HERE 36 TW I FRO. OF ROAD. 1802. WEST OF ENGLAND. 337 them, here, as a proposed improvement of 59. the West of England, as well as to endeavor new line to give them a durable form; — in hopes, that, when the. circumstances and the spirit of the times shall tend towards improvements of this nature, the plan will be carried into effect. djgni • Having bestowed much attention on this subject, it may be right to add, that the only OBJECTIONS, which I have heard, to the pro- posed Hne of road are, that it will interfere with the present estabhshed line, by Salis- bury, Blandford, Dorchester, Rridport, &c.; and that these large towns will draw off the travelling from the more direct road. These objections are admitted : — namely, chat the keepers of posting houses, in those towns, will more or less feel the alteration ; but not the towns at large; which will, ne- vertheless, enjoy their stage coaches and ivag- gons : a fortunate circumstance for those who travel post; and who will of course choose the quieter, more commodious, and most expeditious road. Let the present line remain the road of traffic ; the proposed line that of dispatch. The inconvenicncies and delays, upon the VOL. II. z present MINUTES. Jan. 59- present great road, occasioned by the arrival of packets at Falmouth, and fleets at Ply- mouth and Torbay, are well known to those who are accustomed t6 travel it. Tt> avoid these mterruptions, there has latelv been much tra^'^ling, by Taunton and Somerton ; leaving the great road at Exeter: — a circuitous route, which is strowed with difficulties. The steeps between Exeter and Taunton, are nearly equal to those between Honiton and Bridport, in the hne of tlie pre- sent great road.' -* -^""^ ^^^^ "^o ^^^^ ^^ The ad\-antages to zritst io Government from the proposed improvement, ^b well as to gentlemen who reside in the more Western counties, and the numerous travellers, whe- ther naval or commercial, to and from the Western ports, are so obvious and great, and the means of effecting it, so easy, that, if the country continue to prosper, it cannot remain long unexecuted. 60. COAL ASHES. isol. December 30. Coal ashes arc variously appreciated, by culti\-ators, as an article of manure. While one asserts their fertilizing quality, another condemns them i8o2. WEST OF ENGLAND. 339 as impoverishers of the soil. Both may be 60. in part right. On cold rushy meadows, I coai. ashes. have seen them of great use. They have not only given a check to the grosser weeds ; but have caused an encrease of the finer herbage, — the first year. But, afterwards, the pro- duce has reverted to its former quality, and the ground been left in an impoverished state. A striking effect of this twofold effect of coal ashes occurs on the farm of Buckland. For several years past, extraordinary quan- tities of what is termed " Plymouth dung ' have been brought, in barges, up the Tamer and Tavey, and spread over the lands of this farm. But what is improperly called by that name is merely the rubbish of dust holes, and the sweepings of the streets ; coal ashes and cinders being evidently the chief ingre- dients. Yet as a stimulant of the turnep crop, its effects are extraordinary. I have remarked an instance, in which a plot, that had been left by accident unmanured, was of no value ; while the rest of the piece bore a luxuriant crop of turneps, from this ma- nure, alone. And its efiects, on other crops, for one year, are very discernible. But, not- withstanding the sums that have been ex- z 2 pended MINUTES. Dfic^ 60. pended on this manure — one himdred pounds, coALASHEr. or a much larger sum, having been annually srjuanderod away upon it — the arable lands of the farm — many ot" them of good natural stamina — are now in the lowest stale of po- verty : especially those ^^ hich lie near the kay, and have no doubt liad the largest por- tion. The second or third year's lays, tho in a high state of tillage, and pastured the first ^ear (never mown), arc in a miumer bare of herbage : a tew ]>uny weeds, and some starved moss, being their only covering. Relating these circumstances, to a gentle- man of this county who had made similar ob- sersations, he mentioned an eminently judi- cious METHOD of USING COAL ASHES, On GRASS LAND : namely, that of spreading them on coarse mowing ground, in autumn or early winter : in order fo fine the herbage, and to give one crop of hay ; and, as soon as that can be got off tlie ground, to manure it with dung, or compost ; in order to carry on the growth of the improveri herbage. SiOJ 01 SHEIPFOLD 1801.'. ^NOVEMBER 1. AV ith a VlCW tO- OK GRASS -X • • -111 LAND. wards recovering the impoverished lay grounds rSoi. WEST OF ENGLAND. 341 of this farm (see the foregoing Minute), the effect of the Shee-pfold, run shghtly over them, has been tried, during the preceding summer. The result is highly favorable. The herb- age has been encreased, threefold. And al- tho the first growth is too rank, or otherwise unsavory, to sheep, cows depasture upon it with evident partiality. 1804. November. Altlio the luxuriant flush of grass, which rose presently after the folding, has passed away, still the soil is thickly covered with sweet herbage-^of twice the value, as a sheep pasture, of that whicli occupied the ground, before the fold was run over it. And, it may be added, folding sheep, thinly, on dry grassland, is not greatly inju- rious to the flock. 61. SHEEPFOLD ON GRASS LAND. 62. 1803. August. The following regula- tions have been made, respecting the taking down of timber for repairs ; and mav, per- haps, be found useful on other estates. The woodward has instructions to note down, in his walks, the situations, &:c. of ?-uch trees as he may observe to have been z 3 injured TIMBER FOR REPAIRS 342 MINUTES. Aug- 62. TIMBER FOR REPAIRS. injured by the wind, or are otherways going, or likely to go, to decay ; as well as those which are stunted in their growth, or are too much crowded, to make further progress, without injuring better trees ; and, in gene- ral, such as are proper to l>e taken down for the different uses of the estate ; whether for erecting or repairing buildings, or for gates, &c. &c. The acting manager, to employ an experienced carpenter, to make the necessary estimate of the quantity and quality of the timber required for such works as may, from time to time, be ordered. And the three, in company, to select and mark proper trees, for the given purpose. Under these regulations, duly obsers-ed, no waste, nor unnecessar\' expenditure, of the crop of growing sale timber, can be in- curred ; nor any time be fruitlessly expended, in searching; for the most suitable trees. 6'^ MUSHROOSf RINGS. 1804. May. Observing, in a well soiled grassland paddock, — which is shut up for mowing, and whose herbage, in general, has now a pale yellowish cast, — many dark-green i8d3. WEST OF ENGLAND. 343 crooked lines, or more perfect rings (faini- 03. liarly termed fairy ri^gs — here, provinci- ^^J[^q°°^ ally " pixey rings," or '' mushroom rings"), the herbage of which is thickset, luxuriant, and sweet to the taste ; being of more than twice the value (at present *) of that of the piece at large ; — I became desirous to know from what cause such valuable properties could arise. To try to come at the fact, a trench was dug across one of the fertile stripes ; so as to expose its soil and subsoil ; as well as those of the ground, immediately adjoining, on eitlier side of it. Under the gross herbage, a white powder was found to be plentifully mixed with the soil ; so as to give it the appearance of lime and earth mixed together, in the manner practised, * In summer-pasture grounds, these rings frequently appear 10 be barer of herbage than the rest of the field. But this may be owing to the grass of those parts being sweeter ; and of course more closely bitten, than the less palatable herbage. , 1805. May. This cold backward spring shows, in a still more striking manner than the last, the superior productiveness of these rings. Their herbage, as an article of spring pasturage, this year, is of three'or live times the value of the ordinary herbage. Z 4 RINGS. 344 MINUTES. Mat 63. practised, here, for manure : the efflorescent MusKRooM matter being what is termed, in different parts ot the Island, " mushroom spawn ;" and is universally collected, by gardeners, I believe, as a necessary ingredient, in forming artiiicial mounds, for the purpose of produ- cing mushrooms *. While under the ordi- nary herbage, no appearance of this white powder was observable. Has the natural histor}% and vegetable eco- nomy of the mushroom been maturely stu- died : What is the nature and function of this mushroom-producing matter; — if such it is, in fact } Is it the cause, or an etfect, of the richness of herbacfe } If a cause, how can it be propagated r The investigation of this subject may not be merely an interesting pursuit, in natural know ledge, and abstract science ; but may possibly disclose something of use, in prac- tical agriculture. Thi« subject being of a mysterious cast, is prolific of tlieoretic ideas. Is that %\hich is termed the spawn of mushrooms, the seed or the matrix of fungi ? Or is it a sub-ter- • In the course of the summer^ these rings were ob- served to produce many mushrooms: some of them, af least, of the large edible species. RINGS. i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 345 rene plant ; ^^'hich, by vegetating and decay- 62- ing in the soil, provides food not only for mushroom the fungus tribes, but for the more perfect plants ? Richly soiled, old grass land (in which only I have observed this erfiorescent mold) may, in general (tho not obviously) contain subterranean plantlets, as well as animal- cula, that prepare food for surface vegeta- bles. This suggestion may serve to account, in some measure, for the progressive im- provement of such lands, by age ; and their productiveness of arable crops, when thev are broken up, by tillage. The fact is, that the soils of grass lands, to the depth of many inches, are capable of being furnished with an etilorescent mold, that is peculiarly productive: — and if any method of propu^^ating, or forwarding, that productive quality can be devised (either by sowing a portion of the mold with the seeds of herbage, when grounds are laid down to grass, or by previously plowing it into the soil, or by any other mean that study and per- severance may dictate), the discovery may be found highly beneficial to the country, and mankind. G-1, > MrNUTES. 777 JuKR 64. 64. 1804. June. The turnep crop of last rear, throughout the Western counties at least, was deficient in the extreme ; owing, chiefly, to the dryness of the season of sowing : the last being altogether, one of the driest summers, perhaps that Devonshire has experienced. A deficiency of grass, too, as winter food for sheep, was the natural consequence, and hay was scarce. iS^umbers tell victims to hunger; and flocks in general were reduced to a star- ving state. Tlie Buckland flock suffered, by this disaster, not less, I apprehend, than two hundred pounds. The loss to the kingdom at large must have been immense: To guard against the loss of the turnep crop, in future, through the dr^'ness of the ground in the sowing season, an idea of wa- tering it, after sowing ; — in the manner that roads are watered ; or where turneps are cul- tivated on ridgets (as in the Scotch and North- of-England practice) by letting the water out, partially, upon the ridges ; — was suggested. But well knowing the eVil, rather than the beneficial, effect of a slight superficial watering, on infant turnep plants (see Mid^ i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 347, LAND Counties, Min. 84, page 165), and 64. perceiving that even a copious stream, let watering out upon sharp ridgets, could amount to no more ihan a slight superficial waterings — as the principal part of it w^ould necessarily run down their sides, into the intervals ; and be entirely lost to the intention, — I clearly savt^ the inutility of the proposed scheme. Nevertheless, having long experienced, in planting trees and shrubs, the good effect of WATERING THE PITS, bcforc the plants be in- serted (see Treatise on Planting, &c. also Midland Counties, Minute 146), and of afterward conveying water down to their 7^oots, if required, — I was led to the thought of depositing a supply of water, within the RIDGES, before sowing the seeds of turneps, or inserting the plants of ruta-baga or cab- bages ; and, afterward, if found necessary, of conveying, from time to time, as the sea- son may require, fresh supplies of moisture to the roots of the plants ; and, through these means, of securing a crop, with a degree of certainty, in every season. These operations being evidently practi- cable, by the means of hollow coulters, simi- lar to those of the pulse drill, which I for- merly constructed (see Minutes of Agri- 4 culture. MINUTES. JuKK CULTURE, in Surry, Plate II.), I have had a watering machine constructed on the same principle. The body of the machine is a water-tight cart ; whose m heels include, or span, two ridges ; the horses drawing in the interval between them. To the hind part of the cart, two slight beams are hung, so that their ends may drag upon the tops of the ridges : the lower ends of these beams being sheath- ed, or shod, with hollow coulters. Imme- diately above the upper ends of the beams, the cistern, or body of the machine, is per- forated near its bottom, and two leathern pipes (an inch or more in diameter) inserted, to convev the water down into the hollows of the coulters : grooves being formed on the upper surfaces of the beams (which are framed together, with cross bars) for the pipes to rest in ; and two handles fixed to them ; in order to guide the coulters, with proper etfect, along the. middles of the ridges: sutficient play in the hinges being allowed for this purpose. The ridges are formed with a common plow ; on the near, or lefthand, side of which a regulating wheel is fixed ; to make a rut or mark on the surface ; as a guide to i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. the plowman in forming the next ridge ; in order that he may be able to raise them at watering -' MACHINE. exactly equal distances. The distance adopted is half the span of the farm-carriage wheels of this country : namely, two feet nine inches. For, by this expedient, not only ordinary carts may be readily converted to the purpose of machines, but if these be formed, anew, their wheels will follow the common cart tracks, in con- veying water ; — —w^hether from a stream, a pond, or pump; or, which is most convenient when it can be had, a shoot, placed in the head of a reservoir ; — under which the ma- chine being drawn, it is easih' and expedi- tiously filled *. In * An implement of this intention may be more readily constructed, by placing a large cask in a common cart ; and letting the water down, into a cross trunk, behind, in the manner of the road-watering machine ; the leather pipes being inserted in the trunk. But this is less simple, and substantial, than a watertight cart; which requires no regulating valve to let the water ilown, or to prevent its flowing. This is done by merely lifting up the frame, behind, until the points of the pipes be raised above the top of the cistern (about twenty inches deep) j to which a long iron hook is fixed, to keep the frame in that ele- vated position ; — whether on the road, or in turning at the ends of the ridges, or in stopping, in the middle of the MINUTES. June In work, the coulters divide the tops of the ridges, a few inches deep ; and the wa- ter being emitted at apertures near their points (as they are shown in the plate above referred to), it is of course lodged in the bodies of the ridges. Not a drop is wasted ; nor, when the ground works well, is there any appearance of it on the surface : the dry soil running in, after the coulters, and co- vering it up, as it is deposited. Neverthe- less, shallow grooves are left along the tops of the ridges ; and become useful for pur- poses to be mentioned. On these prepared ridges, turnep seeds are to be sown, in double drills (one on each side of the groove or channel) ; or plants of " Swedish turneps," or of cabbages, to be inserted, in double lines ; a few inches from the channel ; and alternately on either side of it : — not upright, but with their heads leaning somewhat outward from ihe channel ; — their roots he? no- thus bedded in the moisten- ed mold. Should dry weather continue, and the plants begin to flag, the channels on the ridges are the work. As the horses move off, the frame is dropped; 43 they stop, it is raised. Either movement is in a man- ner instantaneous : so thai no water runs waste. MACHINE. 1804.. WEST OF ENGLAND. 351 ready to convey additional moisture, imme^ 64. diately to the feeding jthfes of their roots. waterimo In watering the plants, wooden coulters may be used ; they being less liable, than those of iron, to injure their roots; yet are sufficiently effective in re-opening the chan^ nels, wide enough, to receive the required supply, without incurring a waste of water *. November. A piece of cabbages, plant- ed, and watered, in the manner above de- scribed, is one of the finest crops I have seen. Tho planted on ridges of the width mention- ed, and about the same distance along the ridges, the surface is now fully occupied ; as if they had been planted, a quincunx, over the plain area of the field. By inserting the plants obliquely, in the manner above men- tioned^ * As the water, by reason of its greater weight, is emitted faster when the cistern is full, than when it is nearly emptyi , it is right, in watering the ridges before planting, to go tlwice over the ground : beginning with a full cistern where the last was emptied ; going the reverse way : by which means the channels on the ridges may be straightened $ind improved, where they may be defective. By tilting the cistern, a nearly equal stream may be pro- duced 5 so that, in watering the plants, going once over tlie ground will suffice j and be found a ready operation. With two carts and water at a convenient distance, seve- ral acres may be gone over, in a day. MINUTES. June 64. tioned, the heads of the cabbages now lean over the intervals; and thereby not only enjoy an equal distribution of air and head-room, but a facility to shoot off the rain water which falls on their flattened tops, and thereby to prevent a ^^ ell known cause of premature decay. I cannot refrain from suggesting, here, that, — had an implement of the kind which is now brought into practice, been thought of, heretofore, and received into common use, — a million of property, it is probable, might. last year alone, have been saved to the country. 65. ] 804. October 2Q. Excursion in North Somersetshire: — from Bath, hy Marhshur y Cluftoii, Chew yjagna, over Broadjield Down, and by the Bristol road to Laiigjord and Cross Inn ; thence to AjL-bridgr and Chcdder *. Proceed down tlie charming vailey of the Avon, below Bath ; keeping the Bnstol road (now in a shameful state!) about three miles. Leave the base of the A-allev, and turn to- ml vvard its Western banks : the road winding, • To finish my general view of the West of Eng- T.AND. iS<^, WEST OF ENGLAND. 353 happily, up a shallow dell (full of inhabit- 65. ants) ; with grassy swells on either hand, north and many orchards. The soil a redish lime- shire. stone loam. Reach the top of the heights (without perceiving any difficulty in the rise). The soil remarkably stoney : yet small ozier beds appear on these stoney heights ! Observe a flock of horned ewes ; and a four- ox plow team ; near the road. A field of yellow, unhoed turneps. A fallow field covered with stones ! Sow- ing wheat on narrow. West -of- England ridges, on these stoney lands. Leave a rough hogsback hillock, on tlie left : — apparently a common pasture. A length of new wall runs by the side of the road ; with the courses of stones, alter- nately dry and mortared : also with broad upright lines of cement, at stated distances ; doubtlessly, to strengthen the work. Stone quarries by the side of the road; with their bottoms now covered with water. This may account for the ozier beds. Almost the whole of these level-topped heights is occupied by arable inclcsures. Turn to the left, round the base of a re- markable globular hillock (Stanton Bury VOL. 11. A A Hill) ; MINUTES. Oct. Hill I : a fine bason of land opening on tlie right. Now much rich grass land appears ; cover- ing even the highest swells to their summits ! the soil apparently a free limestone loam^ Meet many coal carts and waggons, ^\^lat wretched horses ; and savage drivers ! Some fatting cattle are now seen in the grazing grounds of these hills. Pass through Marksbury : a finely situated village. Cattle, here, are of a mixed impure kind : nothing of a distinct breed appears. Several field wells, for the use of cattle, are observable on these hills : the limestone, probably, rest- ing on a bed of clay. The country, here, is \\ holly inclosed ; with hedges (no walls) ; in smallish, and re- markably square, inclosures ; as if they have been formed from open pastures. How finely billowy is the surface of this passage of country. The soil good, and well Inhabited. The villages numerous and re- spectable ; and their churches of unusual size and beauty. What a charming country to live in : at least in the summer season : yet. not a place y nor even a placelef is seen, in a circle of many miles. Wood, it is true, is i8oi^. West ov England. 35s at present wanting : but this is probably ow- 65. ine; to a want of resident proprietors. ' north \. . , J J 1 SOMERSET. More rich grass grounds, and some low- shire. stemmed orchards: (eight miles:) many cows; apparently of a cross breed, between the Glocestershire and the long-horned. A deep stone quarry is seen near the road; exhibiting horizontal strata of stone and earth, alternately : the prevailing substructure, per^ haps, of the District. Still a richj beautiful, billowy passage: with large farmsteads scattered Over it. A distant view breaks forward. But still the ground travelled over is upland ; covered with fine herbage. (Nine miles.) The road hedges (a toll road) uniformly well pruned. Reach the Southwestern verge of the heights, and descend into a finely broken vale District. A place, in front, embosomed among tall trees. Pass through Littleton, — « a village of whitewashed walls and pantile roofs. Some long-horned cows. (Ten miles.) Drop into a rich valley : the land, and the road stones, red. Good grass land ; appa- rently applied to the dairy. Reach the termination of the direct road ; and enter that between Bristol and Shepton Mallet, &c. — turning back to the right, to- A A 2 wards 3S6 MINUTES. Oct. 65. \rards Bristol ; — a circuitous route ; but this NORTH is a fortunate circumstance ; so far as it SHim- ' lengthens the hne of obser\'ation. Cross a >vooded dip ; and see a large tim- ber wood, on the left ; — the first observed. Leave the vale lands and ascend the wood- ed hills. See, at some distance on the right, a range of conical hillocks ; resembling im- mensely large tumuli: unusual objects: (Bar- row Hill.) G^ntinue to ascend, for a mile or more, to the height of Cluitox : a churchen vil- lage ; and posting inn. The ele^•ation con- siderable : the country falling both ways, to the North and to the South, from the line of hill on which it stands ; and wliich com- mands an extensive view, Northw ard, of the Vale of Berkley, skrecned, on the South, bj the Sodbury Hills. Return to the Southward : but presently leave the turnpike road, and enter a narrow, abniptly winding, woodland lane ; leading, between crooked woody hedges, among arable -and grassland inclosures, of tlat stoney land ; similar to that of the Marksburj- Hills. The farms apparently large and well managed : good mixed cultivation. Proceed westward, and see distant hills to i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND: 357 the right (lieigh Down). Good oak timber 6^, in hedges, as well as standard trees : oak and north . SOMERSET- Other pollards are also common : — the pro- shire. - geny of ancient woods ? Bend more to the right (nearly North), and dip towards a broad deep bason of vale lands ; lying between these and the distant hills. Enter upon the verge of this fine vale Dis- trict. The soil red, and evidently rich. An extraordinary growth of gross foggage : op^ posite a tasteful, elegant placelet ; command- ing a charming view of this lovely recluse passage. Descend lower into the vale. The soil still red and of a superior quality. ]Much grass land; evidently a dairy countr}'*. The whole inclosed wdth old crooked hedges, and low banks : the road leading through narrows- winding, unlevel, lanes. The lands, here, having: been evidently inclosed from a state of woodland. But, at a distance, in the base of the vale, large square fields are observable: formed, no doubt, when the lands were in a state of cultivation, or pasturage. Still • The produce of this part of North Somersetshire, being, I understand, uncolored cheese, A A 3 35^ MINUTES. Oct. 65. Still keep gently descending, down a wind- KORTH ing tvood lane. But no remains of woodlands 50MLRSET. , , -111X1 1 1 • SHIRE. appear (unless in the hedges) : the soil being now applied to more profitable purposes. Some tall field orchards : the trees very large, and thinly planted; as in Herefordshire. Also a nursery of tall young trees. Pass Stanton, a large village ; and, at length, touch upon the river, brook, or prin- cipal stream of the vale. How few streams ■ of any description are seen in this drive ! Wind to the Westward, up the bottom of the vale : here, wide, and rich. Much or- chard ground. And many fine oaks and elms of size. A fine vale passage. Pass Chew Magna, and its stately tower; in a rich, fine situation *. Proceed, westward, up a branch of the vale ; which is still red, rich, and extensive. Bend more to the left, and leave the base of the vale ; creeping up a narrow, hollow, woodland way : the land still continuing of a good quality. The soil and subsoil red ; incumbent on a substructure of redish rock ; apparently limestone : the same construction of land appearing to form the whole declivity. • This fine passage of country might well be named the District, or Vale, of Chew j the name of the hun- dred in which this part of it is included. i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3S» Reach the top of the hill ; and pass Wind- ^S' ford church. The land, here, is lighter, but north still of a tolerable quality. shire. A long range of the Mendip Hills appear, on the left : showing, in this point of view, a bold steep front ; — that which is seen from Persheld, and the Welsh mountains. Keep the flattened height. The land, here, is weaker, but still redish. Enter a wide extent of rough commonable lands ; nearly covered with furze and fern : the soil redish : the stock — small-horned sheep : — (Broadfield Down.) A full front view of Mendip' s strong features ; softened by the varnish of an intervening shower : and, forward, a wide extent of low country is perceived ; situated between these heights, and the coast of the British Clianncl. Join the public road, from Bristol to Bridge- water, &c. ; and turn short to the left ; nearly southward ; still keeping on the flat of the Downs. What admirable road \ (of hard stones, broken small;) as firm, smoath, and well formed, as a kept gravel walk. Another fine vale or valley of land opens ! between these heights, and the higher ^len- dips ; lying at the feet of the latter. How rich in larnd is Somersetshire ! comprizing a A A 4 far MINUTES. Oct. far greater proportion of highly productive, and a less proportion of unproductive, sur- face, than any other county of the kingdom. Descend steeply into the wide, rich-look- ing, well wooded valley. The soil, on the slope, red loam ; with a red- stone base; as on the more Eastern face of tliis extended hiJl. A well sized dairy of Glocestcrshire-like cows, milking, near the foot of the hill. The soil of the base of the valley is a rich brown loam. Two plots of wad ? in high cultivation. Enter a fertile elm-tree passage ; and cross a small rich common, — such a one as is not iin frequently seen in the richest vale districts. The stock, well sized, horned, Somerset- shire SHEEP : — the prevailing sheep stock of the countr}-. Approach the steeps of jNIendip ; — clothed in grass, fern, and brushwood : no heath. The whole face, here under view, has lately been inclosed ; but not yet cultivated. Reach Lang ford — a village situated at the foot of a branch, or detached mass, of the Mendip Hills. The soil, here, red ; as on the opposite side of the vallc}-. Mount this minor hill, by a steep long i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3^1 ascent, and command a view of extraordinary 65. grandeur. The rich valley lands, just cross- north , . , . 1 1 r r 1 SOMERSET- ed, widen into a vale, at the root or the shire. steep ; and form the foreground of the pro- spect. The middle ground, an extent of rich marsh lands, relieved by well wooded rising grounds ; the first distance, a broad view of the Bristol Channel, with the Holms rising distinctly out of it ; the Welsh mountains towering high in the ofFscape. Near this proud point, a lime kiln is burn- ing stones of a redish cast ; similar to those observed on either side of the Broadfield Hill. Continue on these high uneven grounds ; when, surely, a more level line might be chosen. See a narrow estuary (the mouth of the Axe) in a striking point of view ; be- tween two high-rising grounds, on the coast, that hide the Bay of Bridgewater : the coun- try, which is now fast narrowing between the Mendips and those high grounds, appear-* ing to be of a rich, vale-land description. Pass, on the left, numerous quarries or superficial mines ; — many men seen among them, and meet others on the road (the day closing in) with their clothes covered with dust, or dirt, of an orange-colored hue. (Lapis calaminaris works.) The MINUTES. Oct. 6^. ' The high steep face of the Mendip Hills is now seen at hand ; and is, here, bringing into a state of cultivation : the soil evidently of a superior quality. Fine crops of turneps hang on the steep ; even to the ver}^ top ! Continue clambering over the feet, or toes, of the Mendips ! and, at length, after a long, but not uninteresting stage*, reach Cross Ixx : — -full of company ! Two commissions of drainage, and an auction for a considerable landed estate : not a room, a bed, nor even a chair, unoccupied. At AxBRiDGE, too (a small market town), every bed is bespoke ! Found a comfortable one, unexpectedly, at the village of Chedder ; the Aery point I wished to gain ! — The dairv and the clilTs of Chedder being particular objects of my ex- cursion. October 3o. The dairy of Chedder, heretofore celebrated, coevally with, or per- haps priorly to, those of Glocestershire and Cheshire, no longer retains its former pre* eminence, in the dairy District of North So^ mersetshire. There are, at present, other parishes, situated near the feet of the Men-» * The length of the journey about thirty miles. DAIRY. 'IB04. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3^3 dip Hills, that claim a degree of excellency, 65. equal, at least, with that of Chedder. chedder In the day of its celebrity, it was usual, and the custom still prevails more or less among small dairy farmers, to unite the pro- ducts of two or more dairies ; in order to form cheeses of larger size than could be effected by the milkings of a single dmry : — cheeses of extraordinary, and perhaps un- profitable bulk (requiring some years to ripen them) being the result of this practice; which has likewise been, time immemorial, I be- lieve, the established practice of Cheshire ; situated in a far distant part of the Island ; while in the intervening Districts of Gloces- tershire and the Midland Counties, no such custom, I apprehend, has ever been esta- blished. The present fashionable produce of the dairies of Chedder and its vicinity, appears to be that of loaf, or what is provincially called " truckle" or " trundle," cheeses ; si- milar to those which have been made, for some time past, in North Wiltshire (see Glocestershire, Vol. II. p. 161), whose practice, in this respect, may have been de- rived from the Chedder District of Somerset- shire. The ;64 MINUTES. Oct. 65. The season of making being now nearly •REDDER over, I had the less opportunity of viewing, in detail, the Chedder practice. I neverthe- less was favored with the inspection of one dairy ; which tho not of the largest size, may, I believe, be considered as inferior to none, in accuracy of management. I shall consider it as a fortunate circumstance, if, before I speak, generally, of the English dairy, I should be favored with an opportu- nity of learning the particulars of Mrs. Gil- ling's practice. HEDDtR The Chedder Cliffs. These stupendous CLIFFS. . . , ": rocks form a natural curiosity of considerable magnitude and eifect. They have evidently, at sight, been occasioned by a rent of the entire face of the Mendip Hill ; here, several hundred feet in height above the level of the marshes which approach its foot : the fissure extending, back, away from the brink of the steep, into the body of this mountain height. This extraordinary chasm is widest at the foot of the steep ; narrowing upward ; until it merely admits of room for a carriage road*. • At present it is only a road of communication be- tween the lowlands and the hills. But it is in contempla- tion, I am informed, to make use of this chasm, as a CLIFFS. 1804. WEST* OF ENGLAND. S^S It is irregularly winding; each side being 65. I toothed, or serrated; the indentures evidently chedder. corresponding with each other ; especially toward the upper part of the cleft. The sides are nearly, or in many parts quite, perpendi- cular ; and, in some, of immense height. In one place, below the midway of the ascent, the face of the rock, bare, firm, almost smooth, and perpendicular, has been mea- isured ; and is said to be of a height, which, to the eye, appears to be incredible. The rock is uniformly calcareous ; a dark-grey, or liver-colored limestone, and, apparently, of great purity : a valuable material, of which, it is more than probable, this elevated quarter of the Mendip Hills is uniformly composed f . This chasm furnishes the geologist with an interesting subject of study. The manner in which mean of comniunication between Bristol and Bridgewater. It lies not only in tlie line, but in the midway, between the two towns. There is one part of it which is at pre- sent too steep for a public road ; but, by labor, it may be very much improved. And a straight road across the marshes, in that line (if practicable), could not fail of becoming highly beneficial to their proprietors. t It resembles, in contexture and general appearance, not only the stone of Broadfield Down, but that of the Eastern extremity of the Mendip Hills. See page 102. MINUTES. Oex, which it was formed is difficult to be ascer-^ tained. From the almost nakedness *, raw- ness, or apparent freshness, of the surface of this dry rocky dingle (for such and such only it is), we are led to conceive it to be the result of some partial agitation of the hill, since it took its general form and position. But those circumstances perhaps may be better explained, by the firmness and steepness of the rocks, and by the bleakness and dri/ncss of their situation. AMiat appears to me by far the most inte- resting fact, belonging to this extraordinary rent, is tliat of its giving vent to a copious stream of Avatcr; — a brook of considerable magnitude; — whicli rises at the foot of the steep — within the chops of the chasm ! — > rising up, through numerous apertures, suf- ficienth' to furnish a supply of water to work a iiour mill, and one or more paper mills, immediately at its source. The rent, pro- bably, reaches some distance — perhaps miles, within the body of the hill ; and collects the absorbed waters of rains, on either side of it; conducting them to this easy outlet. • A few shrubs, or rather trees in a shrubby state, — as the yew, beech, liorubeani, wliite leaf, &c. and a variety of rock plants, have got foothold, on the shelves, and ii) the few crevices of the rocks. 0 i8t)4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 367 If, either on the Southern side, or at the foot of the Western steeps of the Mendip Hills, the dry disused channel of a river, or brook, similar to that of Chedder, can be discovered, it may with much reason be con^ eluded that the Chedder cliiFs have been rent asunder, since the general formation of the Mendip Hills : otherwise, it seems reason^ able to suppose that their present form is co- eval with that of the surface of the adjacent country. But this by the way. The waters -which now find vent at the surface, through this chasm, may once have passed off, sub- terraneously, to the neighbouring sea. For general remarks on subterraneous waters, see Treatise on Landed Property. 65. CHEDDER CLllfS. The narrow line of country that lies be- tween the feet of these Southern steeps, and the extended marsh lands, or sedgemores, which fill the wide space that separates the Mendip from the Poldown Hills,— situated some ten or twelve miles asunder, — is nearly uniform, in soil and surface. In the neigh- bourhood of Chedder, the road, which leads from Axbridge toward Wells, runs at about half a mile's distance from the foot of the gteep. Pn the upper side of the road, the soil NORTH SOMERSET- SHIRE. MINUTES, Oct. soil is strong red loam : in some places, as red as ochre. On the lower side, the marshes, which are here composed of fat, redish, clayey soil, — partaking of the nature of the adjoining lands that have aided in their form- ation,— reach nearly up to tlie road. But nearer Axbridge, a low stage of rich brown land is observable ; similar to that of the val- ley which was crossed between Broadfield Down, and the Western front of the Mendip Hills. Eastward of Chedder, the red land shoots away from the hills ; the road, there, rising, and passing over this fertile tract. The produce of these valuable lands is chiefly, I believe, that of the dairy, — namely, Chedder cheese ; with a portion of arable crops. In the immediate neighbourhood ot Axbridge (on the brown land just noticed), the remains of a common field are seen : the only instance of the kind, observed, in this excursion. Some tall, wide-planted or- chards here meet the eye ; and, what is new to me, rows of apple trees standing on the borders of fields ; some feet distant from the fences ; not in, or close to, the hedgerows ; as they are in the Southern parts of this county. A little brushwood is seen hanging on the lower parts of the steeps : but they are too i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 3^9 freely exposed to the cutting blast from the 6$, Southwest sweeping across the wide north marches, without a break, until they reach shire. these cliffs — to produce wood, I apprehend, of any great height or laxuriance. In a GENERAL VIEW of NoRTH SOMERSET- SHIRE, the DAIRY is evidently a prominent, if not the principal, object of its husbandry. Yet the sizes of dairies are not large. Eight or ten cows, I understand, make the ordi- nary size. But there are some few of higher number. I observed one of fifteen or twenty. The breed or description of cows has been more than once mentioned in the travelling notes. In the Axbridge quarter, I observed not only cows, but some grazing, and one instance of working, oxen, with white spines. There is not the least trace, here, of the red breed of Devonshire and the West of Somer- setshire : they are evidently the same party- colored kind that are seen on the Eastern side of the county (see pages 103, 1 17, and 329). In evidence that they are not reared in this Northwestern District, I did not observe a single instance — not even an individual — of young cattle, in traveUing thirty miles within its area ! Yet it is not probable, seeing the VOL. u. B B number MINUTES. Oct. 65' number of cows which the District contains, that the whole should be bought in : and the young stock may, now, be upon the hills, or in common marshes, away from the road. The working oxen, observed, werefevv^: the animals of draft appearing to be, mostly, an inferior kind of horses. CROSS INN TO BRIDGEWATER. • (Over the Marshes.) (Sixteen Miles.) • October 3o. Trace the foot of a steep, A\'hich here rises near the margin of the mavshes. A lime kiln and quarry, on the face of the hill ; which is a branch or detached ridge of the Mcndips; partially cut off from the main body, by the pass which formerly, it is probable, gave rise to Axbridge ; and, more recently, tp this line of road, between Bristol and Bridge water. Turn short to the southward, and enter the marshes ; leaving the high lands, stretch- ing away, westward, toward the Bay of Bridgewater. What a boundless extent of rich marsh lands ! Tlie eye, at least, does not descpy MARSHES. 1804. ^VEST OF ENGLAND. 37' the surface to its farthest bounds; doubt- 65. lesslv, owing to its water-formed convexity, the sea This valuable tract of land is here appro- priated ; being divided into well sized inclo- sures, separated by water fences ; ' as the Romney, the Yarmouth, and other wide tracts of marsh lands are : parallel drains being cut through the areas of the inclosures. The soil darkly colored ; and apparently of a retentive quality : fine close silt. Cross the river Axe. Barges and coal yards, below the bridge. Still the same extended flat of rich grazing grounds : mud banks overgrown with luxu- riant herbage. And still the areas of the in- closures are drained, by lateral trenches ; with the surface of the ground swelling be- tween them ; having somewhat the appear- ance of wide flat ridges (or water-meadow beds ill laid up) ; — with deep interfurrows : an appearance of marsh lands, which I have not before remarked. Barren cows and sheep are, at present, the prevailing stock. ^lany straggling thorns, of size, are seen scattered over these marshes : seemingly, the remains of live hedges. A gentle swell of land ii now perceived on B B 2 the MIN'UTES. Oct. the left ; rising tamely above the level of the marshes: apparently, a natural rising ground, situated between the Axe and the Brue. The road across these marshes is very good: well formed ; with a deep, water-fence drain, on either side ; and with an ample supply of hard stones, broken very small, lodged in readiness to keep it in repair; — a most com-" mendable practice. What a breadth of black unctuous lands ! now covered with grass, wearing the appear- ance of gross wheat in the spring. A few plots of wheat stubble are seen, by the side of the road ; in narrow AVest-of- England ridges. A rich, but dirty, dreary country ! Pass a small common, or green; with some small sheep ; and a few disfeathered geese, ■ — looking piteously melancholy ! Yet the operation, we are told, is not barbarous ; nor offensive to them. .A tall conical hill makes bold!}', ahead; in 11 boundless sea of marshes. Many scattered habitations, in these cen- tral parts of the flat : some decent farmers* or graziers' houses. What a land to live in ! especially in winter. A large farm^^Jtcad, near the read : — fi> c corn stacks and four hay stacks ? i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 373. Some good red oxen, fatting : the first 65. observed. the sea Marshes Still a continuation of black, or dark-grey, soil and substratum. Some very stiff, cloddy ground, in a state of fallow. An instance of plowing with two oxen, abreast : a man driving them ! " Lodgings to let" — in a marsh ! perhaps for laborers. hand on the foot of Brent Hill ; and wind along its skirts. A beautiful hillock : — once, no doubt, a beautiful island. Much grass now in the marsh lands round this insulated hill. And many dairy cows now in them *. Few or no grazing cattle arc seen in them, at present. Leave * After much enquiry, respecting the large, rich, close- textured, and highly flavored cheese, which is met with in the principal inns, in Somersetshire, and which, I believe, is sometimes called " Bridgevvater cheese," I have been informed, that it is the produce of the niursh lands, in this quarter of the county. These lands are not only rich but cool] and the herb- age, not only oW, but chiefly consists of blade grasses ; with few flowers or odoriferous herbs, to raise the essen- tial oil which is so mischievous in the manufacture of cheese. Hence, the closeness and evenness of its texture. It has always appeared, to me, to be by far the most va- luable species of cheese, this Island produces. If it were known, in London, under any ppecific name (which I B B 3 cannot MTXTJTES. Oct. Leave the land ; and launch, again, into a sea of marshes, right and left. A group of sheaves of hemp, near the road. Some plots of arable lands : — the crops wheat and potatoes. Some of the marsh lands, in this quarter, have been mown. The grass now pale and sickly, — compared with that of the pastured grounds*. The cross roads and driftways are of the natural soil — mud ! even now, poached to the knees. Some hedg-ed inclosures ; and more arable lands. Wheat ridges adjusting, by hand, as in West Devonshire. Many buildings — of bricks and tiles. See masts of small vessels on the right : and cross the Brue, at High-Bridge f ; — to which the river is navigable. And, presently, cross a very deep channel, or cut : doubt- lessly, a drain to the moors. Immense mounds of clean white sand, thrown out cannot 6nd it is), it would doubtlessly sell at a high price; and become a profitable article of produce, to the occupiers and proprietors of these lands. • In the leases for these lands, the tenants, I under- stand, are generally restricted from mowing them. t A weekly market is here held, for marsh stock. MARSHES. 1804. WEST OF ENGLAND. 37^ of it : no doubt, the sands of the estuary or 65. bay, into which the sea flowed; before it the sea was silted up by the alluvion which now forms the surface of the marshes. More hedged inclosures — of rich grass land; with elm trees, and orchards. Nevertheless, still an extensive flat on either hand. Grass, now, evidently growing ! A village and placelet ; in this aguish situ- ation. " Turf," or marsh peat, appears to be the universal fuel. Now water fences, again ; with the ragged remains of hedges. Some short reed in a water fence : the flrst observed } A dairy of good red cows, milking, in the marshes : the flrst seen, in this excursion. And meet a waggon with six good oxen ; mostlv red. Approach a rising ground on the right ; and touch upon la7?d, again, at Poulet. Turn to the left, nearly eastward ! leaving the direct line to Bridgewater. See the Bar- ret on the right, at hand. Dip, again, into a branch or bay of the marshes, bordered with hedges and elm trees, toward the ri^'er. More red dairy cows ap- pear. B B 4 Reach MINUTES. Oct. Reach the foot of the Poldowh Hill ; and leave the marshes: — twelve miles from Cross; and four to Bridgewater. Ascend, by stages, this high arable ridge ; and command a broad full view of the marshes passed over ; — with the Brent Hill, or Island, rising in the midst of them ; with the wooded rise, already noticed, between the Axe and the Brue, on the right ; and with the Mendip Hills, and the sea, in dis- tance. J)end over the ridge, and drop steeply down into another extended flat of naked marshes ! the Western point of King's Sedge- more. Join the Bath road, at right angle, near the foot of the hill, and turn toward Bridge- water. — -What an angular route. Why cross the hill ? Why not pass the end of it, by a straighter line ? The soil of this fiat of marshes or *' moors" appears to be of a singularly fertile quality. Ilie color dark, but with a tinge of redness : a sort of liver color. The stock, — red cattle ; which, here, appear to be in full possession. Approach Bridge water ; between well hedged inclosurcs and hedgerow timber : the surface being, in the nature of alluvions de- posits, higher and drier toward the river. iSo4. WEST OF ENGLAND. 377 Cross the Parrct, by an iron bridge, " cast at Colebrookedale, in 1 795 ;" passing many vessels of size, in a vcrv commodious river harbor, below the bridge ; and enter Bridge- water *. General • Bridgewatf.r to Bath. Cross the point of marsh lands, last mentioned, and ascend the Poldown Hill, which forms a narrow hog's back ; — the road leading alonjr the spine, in a very singular manner. Extensive views on either hand. — This extraordinary line of road continues for several miles; the narrow ridge on which it runs, havinof, in some parts, the appearance of art. Descend, and cross a '* moor," — of a mean quality, to Glastonbury : — seated on the broken point of a pe- ninsula t)f high land ; being nearly surrounded bv moors and niarslies. While these were in a state of morass, which they probably were, at the time the monastery was founded, it must have been a place of great security. Between Glastonbury and Wells, the road crosses an extent of fertile marshlands; rich grazing grounds : — appropriated and divided, as those between Axbridge and Bridgewater : these forming the Eastern point, or head, of the sea marshes. The situation of Wells is peculiarly fine; — nt the feet of the Mendip Hills; — on a fertile stage of land, thr.t rises above the marshes, and shelves towards the South ; being skreened from the North and East, by the hills; which are, here, of inferior height, compared with those of Axbridge and Chedder. The country between Wells and Bath is a continued range of uplands ; — an extent of limestone heights : — heretofore, 65- VALE OF BRIDGE- WATER. MINUTES- Oct. Gexefa.l Remark. The marsh lands or moors of Somersetshire form a voluminous subject of study for the improvers of low, wa- ter-formed lands. The sea marshes, through which the Axe and the Brue have their courses, have been long in a state of appro- priation, inclosure, and public drainage. Many valuable practices, and points of manage- ment, must., — by the inventive faculty of the human intellect, when exercised in the pro- secution of great undertakings, — have been hit upon and established. And the sedge- mores of the Vale of Bridgewater, which have been appropriated and improved, in these latter days of exertion and enterprise, by men of experience, and with former works of a similar nature before their eyes, can scarcely fail to exhibit some valuable improve- ments of former practices. Every thing which met the eye, at the time of my crossing the Axe-and-Brue marshes, heretofore, an open-dov^'n passage ; but now principally inclosed. The substructure, however, tho perhaps uni- formly calcareous, is formed with stones of very different textures : the Mendip Hills being cxjmposed of the hard, marble-like stone, afore mentioned ; those towards Bath, of the soft, granulous, calcareous freestone, which is common to its environs, and the extended range of the Coiswold Hills. 1^4* WEST OF ENGLAND. 379 strongly evidenced their being in a good state 65. of drainage (tho perhaps not complete) ; and improve- under judicious management. The only im- marshes- provement -v^hich struck me, in that cursory view, -wa.s that of affording some shelter to pasturing stock, in severe weather *. If, in the case under notice, the numerous FOSSE FENCES, with which it is intersected, are useful as receptacles of land iratcrs, va hen their outlets into the sea are interrupted, COPPICE MOUNDS mav be run along; their sides ; or may be raised in the areas of the inclosures ; — across the wind, or winds, by which the stock is most liable to be annoyed, BRIDGEWATER to TAUNTON. (Twelve Miles.) October 3 1 . Leave Bridgewater : a large vale of 7 ' 11- I , BRIDGE- viars/i town ; supported by its market and water. port. Touch upon the bank of the Parret, slowly moving in a deep narrow channel (the tide out). Tlie banks, or sloping sides, of the channel, slimed over with silverv mud ; doubt- lessly, left by the tide. Bend * See Southern Countiks, for proposed improve- incnts of RoMNEY Mat^shes, in that respect. ) MINUTES. Oct. 65. Bend a^ay from the river, and enter a flat of rich grass land ; with many orchard grounds. The soil redish brown ; as on the East side of the Parret. What a length of foggage ! The soil fertile, and probably well manured. Much compost well mixed, by the sides of the road. (One mile.) Leave the marsh lands, imperceptibly ; landing on a gently rising ground : an elm- tree passage. A wide vale District discloses, right and left. Rich grass lands ; and red cattle. The Quantoc Hills rise high, on the right. Still a fine vale passage. The soil a strong red loam. Buildings of red cob and thatch. (Two miles.) Pass eight red oxen, in yoke, and see eight more, in pasture : of the Valc-of- Taunton breed. Rise a higher swell ; and keep on its flat- tened top. Pass a large arable farmstead. Six oxen in a cart : some of them pied. The fountiy in a state of mixed husbandry, and orchard ground : the vale lands extending widely, on the right. Pass through North Petherton, — a large and finely situated village — of brick and tiles. The tower of the church beautiful. (Three miles. ") 2So4> WEST OF ENGLAND. 38' Still, a "widely extended rich vale District. The substratum a depth of loam. Some very fine, blood-red, grazing oxen. Many stubble turneps : this year, ragged and of little value. No well culti\ated crops, of size, observed. (Four miles.) Rise a still higher stage of land : the sub- structure a sort of red rock. The land, here, weaker. Furze on hedge banks : the first observ'ed in this excursion. (Five miles.) The Black- down or Xeroche heights break, forward. Cross a dip of charming red land. Good oaks and ashes, in hedgerows. Enter upon a long rise. The substructure redish laminated rock: the soil growing paler, and apparently weaker, u ith the ascent. Overtop the swell. The Vale of Taux- Tox opens. Descend steeply towards it. Tlie same red shellet, or rotten shaley rock, is seen in the hollow way. Q. incumbent on slate ? Reach a stage of gently shelving, free- working red land. Four oxen breaking up ley ground. (Three miles from Taunton.) Continue to descend, gently, into the vale. A large field of clean turneps : — the first ob- served in Somersetshire, this journey. Hedge elms VALE OF BRIDGE- WATER. VALE OF TAUNTOK. 382 MINUTES. Qct. 65. elms and many poUards. Still rich, lightish, VALE OF loamy soil: charming turnep-and- barley land. TAUNTos- j^^ present, much wheat sowing : apparently, the height of seed time. (Two miles.) Cross the Tone : — here, divaricating in two streams. Many orchards in the base of the vale : and several instances of apple trees, on the borders of fields ; as in North So- merset. Join the London road (by Langport, So- merton, &;c.), one mile from Taunton; — on a flat of rich light loam : flax in sheaves, on grass : the same valuable level of land reach- ing to TAU^"T02f. SOJSIERSETSHIRE. co'jvTY OF From these and former examinations, the lands of this singularly productive county naturally divide into the following Districts. 1. The Vale Lands, of North Somerset; including the District of Chew, and the marsh and vale lands of the coast. 2. The Mend IP Hills, and other Lime- stone Heights, in the Northern parts of the county. 3. The Sea Marshes, above described. 4. The Vale or Valley of Glastonbury; i8o4. WEST OF ENGLAND. S^j which accompanies the Brue, from the sea 65. marshes, to its source : its rich banks being county of bounded, on the North, by the Lastern ex- tremity of the Mendip Hills ; and, on the South, by the blue-limestone heights, re- i peatedly mentioned. 5. The Vale of Tauntox ; and other val- I ley lands of AVest Somersetshire *. 0. The Yale of Bridgewater ; — which extends from the sea coast, to Langport ; and widely on either side of the Parret : being bounded, on the West, by the Quantoc Hills; on the North, by the sea, Foldown Hill, and other rising grounds that separate it from the valley of Glastonbury ; on the South, by the limestone hills of Curry, before men- tioned; and, on the East, by the open downs, between Langport and Somerton : including an extent of rich marshes ; with large tracts of * The more Western extremity of the county. Includ- ing part of the forest of Exmoor, the Brendon Hills, and the more habitable parts of the Western Coast, I have not yet had a favorable opportunity of examining, in detail ; tho, from the Dulverton, the Quantoc, and the Black-down, hills, I have been able to form a sufficient idea of it, to say, that, viewed as a District, it is the most, and almost the only, unproductive part of Somer- setshire. MINUTES. of natural vale lands of the most fertile qua- lity; together with the limestone banks which in a manner surround them ; altogether form- ing a passage of country, which, when wholly appropriated, and sufficiently freed from surface waters, will be one of the most valuable Districts, of equal extent, in the Island. 7. The Vale of Ilchester ; described, aforegoing, in Minute 58. 8. The range of Limestone Lands, which embrace the Vale of Ilchester, on the South and East ; — And 9. The Valley of Frome ; which is natu- rally a branch of the extensive Vale Lands of Wiltshire. A LIST LIST OF RATES IN WEST DEVONSHIRE, (in I7g0.) Buildings. Blue Slates, at the quarry, 3s. 6d. a thou- sand ; for the ordinary rough undressed Slates, great and small : running from four to twelve inches wide, and eight to eighteen inches long, when dressed. The large Eaves Slates — provincially ** Rags" — some of them two feet square, when dressed, are sold at 2s. Od. a dozen ; rough, at the quarry. The price of " dressing," or cutting Slates into the required form, is 2od. a thousand. See note. Vol. I. page 62. The entire workmanship, of dressing, pin- ning, pins, and laying on, in mortar, is Os. v^L. 11. c \c a square. 386 A LIST OF RATES IN :i square, of 1 00 square feet : without pins, 5s. 6d. a square. A square of Slate roofing (l OQ square feet) takes about a thousand Slates. Thus the cost of a square is gs. Gd. beside carriage. The estimated duration fifty years. Oak timber — I5d. afoot. Ash timber — is. to I4d. a foot. Lime — 5d. a bushel. Masons' wages — 18d. a day, and a quart of cider. Carpenters' wages — the same. Woodland Produce. Cord wood — see page go. Rough Topwood — prov. ** Sheedwood" (seven feet long, and the thickness of the arm, to that of the thigh) — 3 or 4s. each 100. Spray Faggots (four feet long and three girt) i of East Devon, ii. 49. Buttresses, on building, ii. 227. Cabbages, - — , _, ... . . I - Biddeford and environs, i. 357. INDEX. Cabbages, on cutting, ii. 191. — — , on pl^.nting, ii. 3O5. Callington to Launceston, i. 3 1 7, N. Calves, West Devon, i. 243. Can;)!, W. Devon, propo?ed, i. 337. , Mid-Devon, proposed, ii. 11. , East Somerset, proposed, ii. III. Carn-ing corn on horseback, i. 1 74. Cart horses, West Devon, i. 121. Castle Cary to Soinerton, ii. 266. Cattle, West Devon, i. 234. , on breeding, ii. 182. ■ fed on charlock, ii. 189. — — , Soutli Hams, i. 291. ■ of North Deron, i. 373. , ii. 313. — — of East Sonerset, ii. 1 15. ■ of North Somerset, ii. 369. Cement, nature of, ii. 19S. Chalk of East Devon, ii. 32. Charlock, as food of cattle, ii. 1S9. Charring peats, i. 325, N. Chedder clitFs, ii. 264. ■ ■ d.tiry, ii. 262. District of, ii 267. Cheese, West Devon, i. 248. ■■ ■ of the marshes, ii. 373, N. Cheu-, District of, it. 358. Chnmleigh, in ashes, i. 376, N. Cider cask hoop?, i 97, N. • manufactor), i. 220. — — mills, W. Devon, i. 223. , general remarks on, i. 229. Cliffs of Chedder, ii. 264. Climarure, West Devon, i. i 3. of a plain, i. 33^. • , North Devon, li. 312. Clou'ing creani, i. 244. .^ , E. Devon, ii. 22. Ctuiton, situation of, ii.3<;6. Coal ashes, as a manure, ii. 338. Coals, symptoms of, i. -'^3, N. Coating htJiidinj^s, ii. 186. Cobwall, V.'est IJcvon, 1. 6o. , Vale of Exeter, ii. 17. Colic of Devc«nr.l.irc, t. 2'^i. Con-.nrions of \\ e-:t Devon, i. 31. Commons, on cultivating, ii. 35. Common right. East Devon, ii. 36. Conditions of surveys, i. 78, N. of sale of co]>pice wood. 278. ot timber, li. Con ventionary rent defined, i. 4»,N, Coom defined, i. 12, N. Coppice hedges, i. 65. — — — , a detect of, ii. i 56. — ,onprj!iing,ii. 167. Coppices, managing, i. 96. , on pasturing, 11. 301. , on reclaiming, ii. 221. , rental value of, ii. 219. ■ — , Tge of cutting, ii. 219. Coppice wood, West Devon, 1. gi. ., sale ot, ii. 222. ■ , calculations on, ii. 224. Cord wood S'jjd by weight, i. ioi,N. Cornish wain noticed, i. 310. Corn mills. West Devon, i. 29. stacks, West Devon, i. 176. Cornwall, ride in, ii. 13^. • , excursion in i. 306. — — , gen. remarks on, i.318. Counties, on surveying by, i. 3. Course of husbandry, i. 13.6. Cream, clouting, i. 244. Cre<.iiton, environs of, li. 8. Crewkern to Hchester, ii. 326. Cn ss J1U1 ;o Brill gewater, ii. 370. Cultivated herbage, i. 198. Dairy of West Devon, i. 243. • District, ii. 25. of East Devon, ii. 48. of North Somerset, ii. 369. ofCht-dder, ii. 263. Dairies, on letting;, ii. 51. Danmonian, definition of, i. xiii. ——-J husbandry, peculiari- ties of. ii. 121. Dattipore, skins of, ii. 13$. — , District of, i. 320. , iinprovemetit of, t. 3*9. INDEX. D^rtmoie, on travelling across, ii. Dartir.outb and environs, ii. 296. Demesne tarn^s, VV. Devon, i. 74. Deserted .village, i. 317. Devonshire colic, 1.231, Dilapidations, ii. 250. Disposal of farms, i. 74. District of Wtsc Devon, i. g. Districts, on surveying, i. i. , natural, i. 2. ~ of West of England, i. 5. Dock icar, noticed, ii. 163, N. Doors, on hanging, ii. 2c8 and 2 10. Dorsetshire, West, ii. 25. Drinking pools, on forming, ii. 204. Drake, Sir Fraiicis, the inventor of made rivers, ii. 162, N. Drndge of West Devon, i. 128. Dulverton and environs, i. 380. to Tiverton, i. 382. Dung, West Devon, i. 153. iiason, on forming, ii. 243. Duostone of N. Devon, i. 379, &c. Eagre of the Severn sea, ii. 81. Eartliworms, on destroying, ii. 204. East Devon, improvement of, ii. 57. Eggs, on prod\iciug, i. 265. Elms, remarks on, ii. 10. Estates, in West Devon, i. 55. . , laying out, i. 57.^ -, management ot, i. 56. Excursion in Cornwall, i. 306. in North Devon, i. 341. ■■ ■' ■ through Somerset, ii.85. Exeter, Vale of, ii. 1. •■ to Okchampt.^n, ii. 282. Exmore noticed, i. 377. Fair of Tamertcn, ii. 139. ofPlympton, ii. i66. Fairy rin<;s, ii. 342. Fnllowing, remarks on, ii. 170.. Farms, disposal of, i. 74. — — , letting by survey, i. 78. -, West Devon, i. 103. , South Hams, i. »83. Farmeries, West Devon, i. jR. Farmeries, on planning, ii. 206, Farmers, West Devon, i. 108. . , South Hams, i. 284. Farm lands, laying out, i. 57. Farmsteads, on planning, ii. 252. Farm yards, on watering, ii. 244. Fat cattle, on bleeding, i.241. Fences, West Devon, 1. 65. Fees on leases, i. 81. Fish poachers, ii. i 52. Fishery of the Tavey, ii. 150. — — — , regulations of, ii. 182. Flints of East Devon, ii. 29. - without chalk, ii. 76. , abuild;ngmaterial,ii.39,N. Flood, a remarkable one, ii. 270. Folding, on grass land, ii. 340. Forms of leases, i. 82. Forres, District of, ii. 288. Fossils, Webt Devon, i. 19. FouiKiaiions, on battering, ii. 239^ Foxtail, note on, i. 20 i. French furze, i. 311. Frome, valley of, ii. 104. and environs, ii. 105. to Devizes, ii. 106. Fruit liquor. West Devon, i. 219. of orchards, W. Dev. i. 222. Furniture of pack horses, i. 124. Furze, dwarf, i. 36, N. Furzes, species of, i. 3 1 1. Geese of West Sedgemore, ii. 84. Glastonbury, valley of, ii. 98. ■ M . . . , its situation, ii.377,^f». Goats, a stock of Cornwall, i. 316. Grass lands. West Devon, i. 200. land, on folding, ii. 340. Growing crops, W. Devon, i. 164. Hanging doors, ii. 208 and 210, Harvest holla, i. 169, N. Harvested crops, VV. Devon, i. 178, Harvesting, \\ est Devon, i. 165, ■ , INonh Devon, ii. 313. Hatherlcy, i. 348. Hay harvest, v\ est Devon, i. 205. Hedge mounds, West Devon, i. 65. Hedge I. N D E X. Hedge inoiinds,on guarding, ii. 158. , termination of, ii. Hedge rows, on improving, ii. 59. Hedges, on pruning, ii. 167. Hedge wood, managing, i. 101, Herbage, cultivated, i. 19S. Hewing wheat, i. 167. Hogs, VVc=t Devon, i.249. Hoing tnrneps, ii. 172. Holsworthy, i. 35^, N. Homesteads, on planning, ii. 206 and 252. Hoop=, tor cider casks, i. 97, N. Horses, West Devon, i. 234. — ofdrafr, West Devon, i, 121. , taxon, proposed, ii. 1 14, N. Hundreds, on names of, ii. 136. llchester to Castle Cary, ii. 324. — — , Vale of, ii. 327. I'.minster to llchester, ii. 323. Ilfracomb and environs, ii. 307. to Barnstaple, ii. 308. Implements, V\'esi Devon, 1. 123. , South H.'ms, i. 285. Improvement of marshes, ii. 379. of plows, ii. 145. Improvements of Daitmore, i. 329, , East Devon, ii. 57. ■ — , preliminaries of, 14:. 146. -, a principle of, ii. -, South and West Devonshire, i. 29:5. Inclosuies, West Devon, i.31. Inhabitants, W( st Devon, i. 2<;. Inland navigation prjposed, in'. v est Devon, 1.337. ■ of Devon, re- ina'ks on, ii. 1 1. Inundation, a remarkable one, ii. 270. ■Journey through Somerset, ii. 85. • » g'-''ie- ral view of, li. 109. Irrigation, practice :n, ii. 233. Irrigation, the use of reservoirs in* ii. 203. ■ , East Devon, ii. 47. Kerscot Hill, view from, i. 370. Laborers, \\ est Devon, i. in. Lakes, situations o\\ i. 15. Land, on valuing, li. 261. Landed gentlemen, societies of, it. 194. interest neglected, 11. 197. property, West Devon, i. 4'- Langford, valley of, ii. 360. Langport, ii. 94. — — — to Chard, ii. 271. Lapis calaminaris works, ii. 261. Launceston toTorrington,i.353,N, Leases, forms of, i. 82. , a new one introduced, i. Leat of Plymouth, ii. 160. Leats, on their origin, i. 314, N. — — , on conducting, ii. 212. Letting dairies, ii. 51. farms by surveys, i. 78. Level, a new one, ii. 200. Ley herbage, i. 198. Leys, on mowing, ii. 231. Life leasehold, termination of, it. 249. tenure discussed, i. 42. , further on, ii. ^ 262. Life leases, selling, i. 75. Lime, burning with faggots, i. 157. ;, West Devon, i. 15^. , general remarks on, i. 160. kiln. West Devon, i. 156, , management of, i. 158. woiks of Hampton, i. 384. Limestone, Mid-Somerset, ii. 96. , East Somerset, ii. 102. , of VVe.'t Somers. ii. 78. l.imestoiiesof East Devon, ii. 30. L;ming iand^ a new method ot\ ii. 211. Line INDEX. Line of road, a new one proposed, 11.3-? I. Lyme Regis, lime of, ii. 31. Machine, for watering ridgets,con- ftrurred. i.. 348. Waragement of estates, Vale of Bxeter, ii. i ;. * , a remark on, ii. zci. ■ of farms, i. 133. of gra.i(;n8, W . D. von, i. 2 i . P(.ob, a huit on formuig, n. 204. pocii's rate, U eijt Dtvo.o, 1.49. I'osscssoiy ripht, i. 41. Potiti'es, V\ crt Devon, i. 195. Potvvatf r ieits, i. 58. Pou.try, I. 265. Pound noii^cs '• *20. Preliminaries of improvement, ii. 141. Prtviuctions, West Devon, i. 53. Provident societies, i.28. Public works. West Devon, i. 49. QMantoc Hills, ii. 74. Rabbits, West Devon, j. 264. — ~ — , for Dartmore, i. 335. Rains of West Devon, remarks on, ii. 153. Raking roofs, ii. 240. Rcciaiining stoney land, ii. 16*?. ■ — hnn from weeds, li. 169. Reed, on making, i. 180. Removals, West Devon, i. 89. Rent, West Devon, j. 8g. Reservojrs, :heir uses, ii. 103. Retrospect of South Devon, i. 293. West of fcng. ii. 1 19. Kills, natural, their application, ii. '99- ■ , artificial, on coriducting, ii. »oi, and ii. 2 12. ■ , proper fall of, ii. 202. River guide described, ii. 179. Knad, ail absurd ime of, ii. 12, N. — - maieri.ils, breaking, ii. 9a, N. • , a new line of, ii. 331. hedges, on pruning, i. 360. Roads, a\ es. D'.vdii, j 30. , S(,uth Hams, i. 277. , on laying (Hit, ii.215. , on t-rii mg, ii. 218. Foof-, <~«n r-.king, ii. 240. KoujLihca-i, West D<-von, i. 62. , uncolored, li. 32. ■ , t eory of, li. iH6. , practice in, li. 188. Ku-a cccn'oiy dcfi>cd, i. 51. Rust, an etfcct of, i.. 209. Sailcloth manufacrure, ii. 44. Salmon fishery, i. •34. , regulations of, ii. 182. • weir of the Tavey, ii. 147. ' weir fisbeiies, a regalauon of, ii. 151, N. Scalding cream, i. 244. Sea coast of Devon, li. 295. marshes crossed, ii. .<70. sand, West Devon, i. 154. Seasons of 1799, — ii- 285. of 1 800, — ii. 3 i<. Sea wind;, rcmaks 2cc- Tamerton, District of, ii. 138. Tanning, on the process of, i. 102. Taunton, Valeot, ii. 67. , market ot, ii. 8g. to Somerton, ii. 90. — — , Vale of, re-entered, ii. 381. Tavey, fishery of, ii. 147. Tax on horses proposed, ii. 1 14, N. Temp'e, a deserted village, i. 3 1 7. Tenuies, West Devon, i. 41, N. Thraie, i'. 260. — — from Hmksdon. i. 1 1, N'. ■ from Kcrscot Hill, i. 370. — — from the Mendi'.>Hil-s ii.260. fioiu Padstow Hill, i. 349. 'n VVest Devon, i. 3 j. Village, a deserted, i. ,17. Waggon of West Devon, i. 123. Wainot Cornw'»ll, i. ;^io. Vv'atchct lime, li. 3 i. Water meadows, W. Dev. i. 202. \^ atcfs, nature of, ii.232. Watering farm yards, ii. 244. ■■ land, practice m, 11. 233. — — machine, constructed, ii. 346. Walls, on setting up, ii. 227. Weather, West Devon, i. 131. Weeds, on destroying, ii. 169. 'V^ el's, situation of, ii. 377, N. West Devon, District of, 1. 9. — ■ , minutes in, ii. 127. - ■ Dorset, &:c. ii. : 5. of England, retrospectiveviewr of, ii. I 19. Sedgemore, ii. 79. Wheat, mrthod of tinas ing, 1. 179. , new va.ie'y of, i. 288. , \^'est Devon, i. 1P4. Whip- rein plow introdi'Ctd, ii. 155. Widovv-holcl tenure, i.42, N. Vv ind«, cold, effect of, i. 336. V. innowing, V/est Devon, i. 182. Vv'( Ives, tradition (^n, li. 34. Woodlanis. U est Devon, i. qo. , pr pagu u ', i. 92|f • , tnnnnging '.94. • , Vale «>f Kx> ter, ii. i9, W«io!ei) iranutaciiKcs of aonicrset- .'hire, ii. 1 12. V.'iirk; t. pie, V\'e?t Devon, i. no, V.v)rms, on destnnii;g, li. 204. Varcomb. valley of. ii. j8, N. Ya;-d liquor, di>pofal ff, li. 246. Yards, on w tenng, ii. ?44. Yoke of V\ est Drvon, ». 128. of East Devon, li. 44. THE END. :». Gosnell, Primer, Little Queen Street.