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AND GREATLY IMPROVED EDITION OF MAUNDER'S
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SALMON -FISHING IN CANADA

And this our life, exempt from public haunt,

Finds tongues in trees, books in the running brooks,

Sermons in stones, and good in everything

SHAK.SFEARS

THE UPPER POOL AT THE GOODBOUT

[Frontispiece

SALMON-FISHING

ii

IN CANADA

BY A

COLONEL SIR JAMES EDWARD ALEXANDER

KNT. K.C.L.S. UTH REGT.
AUTHOR OP ' EXPLORATIONS IN AMERICA, AFRICA, ETC.'

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS

THE CHUTE-EN-HAUT

LONDON
LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS

MONTREAL : B. DAWSON AND SON
1860

101TDOTT
PRINTED BY SPOTTI3WOODE AND CO.

NEW-STBEET SQUARE

INSCEIBED TO

LIEUT.-GENERAL SIB WILLIAM ROWAN, K.C.B.

COLONEL 19TH REGT.

LATELY COMMANDING THE POBCES

AMD
ADMINISTEATOE OF THE GOVEENMENT OP CANADA

INTKODUCTION.

IT is impossible to over-value the provinces of
Great Britain lying in North America beyond the
Atlantic wave. They have attracted, and will con-
tinue to attract, the greatest attention, as the hope
and the home of the emigrant. A haven of rest,
after honourable toil, will be found there by those
who are debarred, by the competition in "the old
country," from realising their cherished dreams of
independence. The eastern townships of Lower
Canada will receive and occupy the wanderer ;
Canada west has many modes of employing him,
its resources are being so rapidly developed by
steam and rail. The dark forests of New Brunswick,
kced with bright rivers, were not created to be

X INTRODUCTION.

unsubdued by the hand of man ; and the valuable
though neglected island of Cape Breton, a de-
pendency of Nova Scotia, with its great salt lake,
the Bras d'Or, is rich in coal, possesses exhaustless
fisheries, and a soil capable of supporting large
numbers of industrious settlers.

The heart of Canada may be reached for 6/., the
Maritime Provinces of North America for 4:1. ; an
advantage which is not shared by our distant
though important possessions in South Africa and
Australia.

The soldier and the civilian, the merchant and
the farmer, in the West may diversify and lighten
their duties and their toils with the most exciting
sport in these vast regions, — the haunts of the
bear, the deer, and the fox ; and the fisherman
has such a scope for his " gentle art " on the lakes
and rivers frequented by the great maskanonge,
salmon, bass, white fish, &c., that home-fishing
would appear very tame ever after.

The careless manner in which some of the greatest
boons of the Almighty Creator are treated is evinced

INTRODUCTION. XI

in the reckless destruction of the valuable salmon
family. Some rivers are protected in Britain and
America, and the salmon are judiciously used there ;
but it is too often the case that some of the finest
salmon rivers are now abandoned on account of even
the gravel of the spawning beds being removed to
make walks, whilst poachers destroy fish, lean and un-
wholesome at the breeding time ; and weirs, stretch-
ing across a river near its mouth, by some old
feudal right, and for the benefit of one proprietor,
absorb what might be a means of existence and
pleasure to hundreds living higher up the stream.
Surely this great abuse cannot continue.

We have hunted, fished, and explored in the
British Provinces of North America, and sojourned
there for years, and now propose to give some
account, mixed up with facetious matter, from the
notes of a very experienced hand, of SALMON FISHING
IN CANADA ; adding, in an Appendix, curious informa-
tion of various kinds bearing on salmon fishing in
our North American possessions generally. We may
add that the highest degree of enjoyment is to be

Xll

INTKODUCTION1.

found in a cruise to the salmon grounds on the
Lower St. Lawrence, whilst enthusiastic fishermen
from England find it well worth their while to go
all the way to the American maritime provinces
to " make camp," and cast their lines over the clear
waters of the rivers which empty themselves into
the Bay of Chaleur.

J. E. A.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. PAGE

I. INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL ...... 1

II. — IS THERE SALMON FISHING IN CANADA? . . . .' .17

III. WHAT FLIES ARE SUITED FOR CANADA? . . . . .39

IV. — HOW ARE WE TO GET TO THE SALMON RIVERS IN CANADA? .^ 59

Y. — WHICH ARE THE SALMON RIVERS IN CANADA? ,' . .79

VI. A SUNDAY AT THE SAGUENAY . , ." » » . . ,111

VII. — SALMON FISHING IN THE SAGUENAY ^ .'; v ,*' » . 141

VIII. — SALMON FISHING IN THE TRIBUTARIES OF THE SAGUENAY . 159

IX. — THE ESQUEMAIN . . . .*'' *- ," .' .' .177

X. — THE PETITE ROMAINE, SAULT DE MOUTON, PORT NEUF, AND

BERSIMITS . .193

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAP. PAGE

XI. — SHELDRAKE, GOODBOUT, MATANE, AND METIS . . . .209

XII. — TBINTTY, PENTECOST, MARGARET . , . . . . 227
XIII. — WHALE FISHING IN THE ST. LAWRENCE, AND WHALE STORIES . 247
XIV. — SALMON FISHING IN THE MOISIE 277

APPENDIX . 287

CHAPTEE I.

INTKODUCTOKY AND EGOTISTICAL.

" Low was our pretty cot, our tallest rose
Peeped at the chamber window ; we could hear,
At silent noon, and eve and early morn,
The sea's faint murmur. In the open air
Our myrtles blossomed, and across the porch
Thick jasmines twined. The little landscape round
Was green and woody and refreshed the eye :
It was a spot which you might aptly call
The Valley of Seclusion."

CHAPTEE I.

INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL

HE reader who takes up this
book with the design to peruse
the following pages, may be
desirous to learn in the first
instance with whom he is about
to travel, what description of
person pretends to publish his experience in the " gentle
art," and in what company he is invited to explore the
rugged banks and unfrequented pools of the romantic
and secluded Canadian rivers. Such a desire is only
reasonable, but, no doubt, a short sketch will be deemed
sufficient.

The lines which are prefixed to this chapter accurately
describe, as far as they go, a comfortable but small glebe
house, which by the favour of the bishop of the diocese,
the writer took possession of at the age of twenty-six,
having been for the previous three years curate of a
populous and considerable town near the centre of Ireland.
This house was situated in a western county, and although

B 2

4 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

well sheltered, and surrounded by an amphitheatre of
mountains, stood on comparatively high land about the
middle of the valley. Its windows commanded an ex-
tensive view of a chain of blue and limpid lakes, abounding
in pike and perch, which stretched away towards the foot
of the mountains, while partly hidden by intervening trees,
was another series of still more beautiful sheets of water,
whose shores were well wooded, whose surfaces were inter-
spersed with green islands, and whose depths were well
stocked with most magnificent trout and abundance of
silvery roach.

The reader will readily come to the conclusion that
these lakes, and the streams flowing from them, were not
over fished by a superabundant population of sporting
gentry, when he is informed that the writer, being not a
little proud of his promotion by a learned prelate, and
being moreover under some slight impression that he was
not the worst preacher in the diocese, had made rather a
careful preparation for his introductory sermon in his new
parish, and that when he ascended the pulpit to deliver it,
his congregation consisted of two policemen and the
squire's coachman.

Having mentioned the squire's coachman, it would be
wrong to omit all mention of the squire himself. He was
a gentleman. He had inherited a dark Spanish appearance
from his mother. His understanding had been opened by
a university education in which he had distinguished

INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL. 5

0

himself, and his manners had been polished by foreign
travel and intercourse with the best society. In early life
he had run into the usual extravagances and dissipations
of young Irishmen who have not to win their way in the
world, and by them had been seduced from following the
toilsome steps which, with his manners and talents, would
have inevitably led to distinction at the bar, to which he
had been called. Long before the period of which we
write he had been married, and had just returned from a
continental tour with his wife, having left their two sons
at school in England.

He was fond of shooting and an excellent shot, but un-
fortunately had no taste for fishing. However, his house
was capacious, his demesne beautiful, his hospitality un-
bounded, and at his table it was my good fortune to meet
two men, who subsequently were closely connected with
many of my most interesting fishing experiences — Sir Hugh
Dillon Massy of Doonas, and David flood of Shandangun.
The former was the very beau ideal of an Irish baronet of
the period, tall, handsome, polished, cheerful, vivacious,
passionate and hospitable. The latter was, in every sense
of the word, one of the best men and the best fishermen
I have ever encountered among all the changes and
chances of my eventful life. Many were the happy days
which he and I spent in his Norway praam on the smooth
waters of Eossroe, and splendid were the trout, with
baskets full of which we used to return, sometimes at eight,

B 3

6 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

«
sometimes at nine o'clock in the evening, to my little

glebe, there to enjoy with my wife a late dinner, and kill
our fish all over again. Many an exciting hour have we
passed in the rapids of the Shannon at Doonas — rapids
which I recommend every fisherman in Europe to see, and
to fish if he can — they are six miles from Limerick.
Many were the strong salmon which there walked off with
our most valued flies, and many were the beautiful and
shining swimmers which there fell victims to our feathered
deceits. These, however, were the days when Irish gentle-
men did not rent their rod-fishing, but were glad to have it
near their residences, as an inducement to their friends to
come and visit them and stay with them. For fourteen
years I fished these beautiful, bright, and rapid pools,
generally devoting to them a fortnight in April, and
another fortnight in June. In the former month the fish
were heavier, in the latter much more abundant. I have,
in a single day, kille^l twenty-one salmon and salmon peal
in these waters, and that on a bright, balmy, dewy day in
June.

But my first lessons in fly-fishing were not learned in
the " mightie Sheenane shining like ye sea." John Mason,
a lame gamekeeper of my grandfather, lent me an old rod,
attached to it a clumsily tied hook, impaled thereon a long
red worm, and brought me for the first time to try my
fortune in the brook which flowed across the road which
faced the entrance gate of which he was a guardian.

INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL. 7

There had been rain — the water was much the colour of
table beer. Old John pulled out trout after trout, and oh
how I admired their yellow sides and crimson spots as they
danced and jumped upon the green grass glittering with
dew drops ! None for a considerable time sought to make
acquaintance with my bait — at last I felt a pull at it, and
well was it for my peace of mind during the remainder of
that day, that my line was formed of stout hemp, for in
return I gave such a pull as sent a trout of nearly a pound
weight flying over my head into a remote part of the field
behind me. I ran, I caught him, I disengaged the hook
from his tongue, I stretched him on the grass, I lay down
beside him, I feasted my eyes upon him. I brought him,
with those which old John had taken, to my grandmother ;
I heard his flavour approved at dinner, and from that hour
was irretrievably a fisherman.

Soon I began to wield one of Martin Kelly's light brook
rods — I have it still. Soon I learned to despise the
crawling worm, and with my fine gut casting line, my
black hackle with a dark blue body for a stretcher, and my
red hackle for a bob, found my way to the Dargle river,
with which the brook of which I have already spoken
mingles its waters. Soon, accompanied by a chuckle-
headed, bull-necked, red-haired peasant named Ned
$"owlan, the son of an old nurse who had lived a long life
on my grandfather's property and in my grandfather's house,
I essayed to try more distant streams and lakes. Few are

B 4

8 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the waters which flow through the beautiful and romantic
county of Wicklow, that have not yielded to my early
efforts, dozens of their spotted beauties — Grlencree, the
Ventry, Lugalaw, Lough Dace, the Seven Churches, Lough
Ullar, Poul a phuca ; and oh what reminiscences of early
morning walks, of hearty breakfasts at the lowly country
inn, of Henley's hearty laugh, and Blakeley's melodious
voice, and Tyrrell's equivoque, do the names of these places
call forth from the cells of memory !

But it was not in the waters of the exquisite county of
Wicklow that I slew my first salmon. That glory, like
many others won by my countrymen, was reserved for
Great Britain. During one of my college vacations, I
crossed from Dublin to North Wales, and taking up my
quarters at Caernarvon, made various excursions for the
enjoyment of my favourite pastime. One morning early—
I could tell the exact date if it was important — Captain
Knipe, a thorough fisherman, who always angled for trout
with a white maggot on and covering the hook of his fly,
and always killed the largest fish, old Eice Thomas, a
gouty, passionate, good-natured Welsh gentleman, and my-
self started for the inn at the beautiful Bethgellart, where
having bespoken beds, we proceeded to Lyn Quinnan.* I
am not sure about the spelling of this last word, but it is
according to the way in which we pronounced it. Here
we found a boat waiting for us, with a cross-grained old

* G-wynant.

INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL. 9

man to row us. The sand of the shore shelving gradually
into the water of the lake, and the boat being a heavy,
clumsy concern with a keel, we had to wade to get on
board ; but this would have been death to old Kice Thomas,
whose toes were not even then free from certain twinges of
his hereditary enemy, the gout ; I therefore took him off
the jaunting car on my back, and carried him bodily to
the boat, — an act which completely gained the old man's
heart, and made him my fast friend as long as he lived.

Now it is to be remembered that these worthy men
were old and experienced Brothers of the Angle; that I
was young, and green, and careless ; that they came to this
lake for the special purpose of fishing for salmon ; and that
I did not very steadfastly believe in the existence of such
a fish in any other place than at Johnny Green's the fish-
monger's in William Street, or on the dinner table, accom-
panied by parsley and butter — and then it will not excite
surprise that they should look slightingly at my light rod
and tackle, and turn up their noses at my collection of the
neatest trout flies that were ever turned out of Sackville
Street. However, old Eice Thomas, taking pity on me,
picked from his soiled and weather-stained and well-worn
pocket-book, a queer-looking, dingy, tarnished, red-bodied,
red-hackled, turkey-winged fly, which I thought it about
as much use to put upon my casting-line as it would be to
bait my hook with an eagle, and go bob for whales : how-
ever, I fastened it on, and upon inquiring what I should

10 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

do next, found that we were about to troll along the edges
of the lake, and that my fly was to be the middle one, thus
following exactly the wake of the boat. We spent but a
short time at this work, when I was alarmed by an awful
splash in the still water behind me and a sudden and
simultaneous effort to pluck my rod from my hand. On
turning round to see what was the matter, for I had been
steering and sitting with my back to the stern, while my
fly trailed after, I perceived that I had hooked something,
and that that thing, whatever it was, was darting through
the water and spinning out my wheel line at the rate of
about twenty miles an hour. Then arose a din and a
tumult and a confusion of tongues, which must have
astonished the naiads in the peaceful glades of Lyn
Quinnan ; " Give him line ! " shouted fat Knipe ; ee Grive
the butt ! " exclaimed old Thomas ; " Keep up the top of
your rod ! " growled the cross-grained old boatman. I
endeavoured to do all ; but, unfortunately for me, there was
a knot upon my reel line ; it would not pass the rings ; the
fish was brought to a dead halt in his race, he spun up at
least five feet into the sunshine, shook his head violently,
fell back into the sparkling water, and swam quietly off
with old Kice Thomas's red-hackle stuck in his jaw and
about ten yards of my line.

My agitation, vexation, and disappointment may be
more easily imagined than described ; they were in fact a
severe punishment, but when the old fellows began to

INTRODUCTORY AND EGOTISTICAL. 11

growl, and snarl, and find all sorts of faults with all I had
done and all I had not done, it was too much for human
nature. I kept my temper, however, and quietly stepping
over the gunwale into about four feet water, I said,
" Grood morning, gentlemen, I think you will do better
without me ; we will meet at dinner." And extremely
glad I do believe they were to get rid of me.

My reflections, as I lounged along the lake side, were
not of the most agreeable nature. I felt like a guilty
thing, like one who ought to be ashamed ; but still as the
knot was on my line without my knowledge, I found
excuses for myself, and my disposition not being a des-
pondent one, soon recovered my usual equanimity; and
when I got out of sight of the old boys, sat down, reeled
all the line off my wheel, untied the knot, and resolved to
fish for trout along the river which runs from the lake,
and flows, foaming amongst rocks and precipices, and
glades and meadows, towards the inn at Bethgellart.

I began at the spot where the stream leaves the lake,
sometimes tossing the smaller fish lightly to the bank,
sometimes wading under overhanging trees and slowly
drawing to the landing-net the speckled beauties of a
larger size. The day was fine, my ardour great, the water
in good order, and my success was commensurate, for I
was really a handy trout fisher. Long before the slanting
beams of the declining sun had given evidence cf the
approach of evening, my small kreel was full; but not

12 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

satisfied with such abundant and unexpected sport, I went
on filling the pockets of my jacket, until their weight
became unpleasant, and the waning light warned me to
expedite my progress towards my quarters for the night.
Having passed a considerable portion of the river without
fishing, the path led through some low and rich meadows,
along which I wearily strayed, now and then throwing my
fly into an inviting pool, unwilling to give up the sport,
yet conscious that I ought to seek food and repose : when
just as the dimness of twilight silently settled upon
mountain and valley, and blending roads and rivers, trees
and rocks into one dull hue, the path approached the
river's edge where its waters having hurried down a short
sharp rapid were gathered into a circular basin in which
they eddied round and round in concentric circles except
close to the bank on which I stood, whence they were
carried forward by a moderate current. Into the still
water at the far side of this current, I deftly dropped my
fly, letting the water carry it round towards me, when
suddenly I found an enormous weight upon the end of my
line ; immediately I gave the butt and wound up, until I
felt, for I could not see, the loop of my casting line grate
against the ring on the top of my rod. I peered into the
water with all my eyes, but nothing could I discern, except
floating bubbles and a dim reflection of the clouds and
trees. In vain I raised my hand and rod, endeavouring to
move the object of my anxiety; but I might as well have

IOTKODUCTOEY AND EGOTISTICAL. 13

attempted to push Snowdon from its base. I then began
to doubt whether I had hooked a fish, a log, or a stone.
After about five minutes of this incertitude, my fears were
awakened by the animal, whatever it was, running down
the stream at a rate which made me pull into a fast trot,
and caused my wheel to discourse most eloquent music.
Suddenly he stopped in a small pool in the middle of the
river, and again I took in line as far as prudence would
permit, and bore hard upon him, hoping to float him over to
my side of the stream. At this time I actually suspected he
was an otter ! ! Again he left the quiet eddy and tumbled,
and rolled, and splashed, as I could hear, down, and down,
and down the river. I could not stop him. I could with
difficulty run fast enough to prevent him from running out
all my line. Through rapids, and pools, and streams, and
eddies, down, down the river he went to a spot where it
turns an acute angle, and where its banks are thickly studded
with overhanging hawthorns. These I could not pass by
land ; the river was deep underneath them ; I could not
lift my rod high enough to clear the line of them ; I stood
hesitating on the river's brink, holding on by my rod till
it was ready to break ; the wheej was about to give off its
last turn of line ; I plunged in up to my chin ; again I
approached my enemy, walking, and stumbling, and wind-
ing, and again got so near as to take in all but my casting
line. Again I looked and peered and peeped and stared
and blinked into the dark waters, but nothing could I see

14 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

of my tormentor. After waiting for a while I resolved to
endeavour to put my landing net under where he ought to
be, according to my calculations ; in effecting which, as
fortune would have it, the net caught in my bob fly, and
at the same moment my foe made another rush down the
stream. I suffered the landing net to go along with him,
and followed as I could, sometimes up to my middle, some-
times clothed in water to my armpits, and frequently
falling on my face, and with much difficulty regaining my
feet, encumbered as I was with my pockets full of trout as
well as my basket. My patience was nearly exhausted :
at last, after following down and down the stream, I ascer-
tained that he had again stopped, and when I approached
the place where I considered that he was, I perceived the
landing net caught between two stones, and determined,
whatever might be the consequences, to give up sounding
the bed of the river, and betake me to the shore. I there-
fore seized the net with a bold hand, and strode recklessly
towards the bank; fortunately, at this place the bottom
consisted of gravel, so that I could keep my footing steadily,
and directing my steps to where the surface of the meadow
dipped lowest towards tfre water, I came upon the very
spot where a drain or grasscut emptied itself into the river :
I walked up into it, drawing the landing net gradually,
and the weight attached to it, after me ; as I proceeded I
found the drain grew narrower and narrower, when the
idea occurred to me of pushing on, until the fish, if fish it

INTKODUCTOKY AND EGOTISTICAL. 15

was, would be unable to turn : this I did, and coming to a
very narrow part of the drain sooner than I expected, let
fall both rod and net, flung myself down on the grass, put
both my arms deep into the water, and threw out, ten
feet into the field, a fine, fresh salmon, weighing ten
pounds ! ! !

I shall not attempt to describe my triumphant feelings
as I proceeded to my inn, nor my exultation when on my
arrival in the hall of that comfortable little hostelry, I
overheard my old friends Knipe and Eice Thomas assuring
two newly arrived piscators that there was no sport to be
had in the neighbourhood ; that the river was too low for
trout-fishing ; that the salmon had not yet run up ; and
that the only stray fish which had essayed to do so, had
been that morning wounded and lost by the awkwardness
of a young wild Irishman. Nor will I delay to narrate
how I refuted all their arguments, dissipated all their
facts, and macadamised all their theories, by marching into
the room where they sat in all the comfort of after-dinner
ease, throwing my salmon on the sideboard, with the
small broken fly still in his lip; calling lustily for dish
after dish, and filling them from my basket and my pockets
with as numerous a collection of beautiful trout as I ever
saw killed in a day in North Wales.*

* Since these events the Tweed and the Tay, the Erne, the Moy, the
Bush, and the Shannon have yielded victims to my more experienced angle.

16

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

But we will now, if the reader will accompany us, leave
my early experiments with the rod and fly, and proceed to
Canada, where the writer, amongst other more important
avocations, has been occasionally fishing for the last
seventeen years.

CHAPTEE II.

IS THEEE SALMON FISHING IN CANADA?

" 0 rus quando ego te aspiciam ?"t — HOEACE.

19

CHAP. II.

IS THERE SALMON FISHING IN CANADA ?

NY one who doubts that
there is salmon-fishing in
Canada is mistaken : there
is ; and the author believes
as good as in any other
part of the world, and
better, much better, than
in a great many highly
vaunted countries. " Then
where is it to be had?
Into what part of Canada are we to go for it ? " asks the im-
patient angler, if there can exist such a paradoxical animal.
Both questions may be answered by one reply : Take a
map of Canada, find out Quebec ; then run your eye east-
wards along the left hand or northern side of the river and
Gulf of St. Lawrence ; you will see many streams marked
there ; almost every one of them is a salmon river, and in
every one of them that has been fished, excellent sport
has been had, and heavy fish killed.

c 2

20 SALMON FISHING- IN CANADA.

With the exception of one single stream, a most beautiful
one — the Jacques Cartier, there is not anything which
can be called salmon fishing to the westward of Quebec.
It is true that the salmon ascends the St. Lawrence, and
enters the St. Francis, the Credit, the Humber, and other
streams beyond Toronto, and are there speared and taken
in nets ; but they have not, that I can ascertain, been ever
taken in any of them with the fly. The fact is, I suppose,
that they become wearied and spent by the long voyage
over a thousand miles which they perform in the fresh
water, and are not on their arrival in these waters in
condition to rise with the same vigour and recklessness
which they do when recently arrived from the depths of
the sea. After such an expedition for the purposes of
perpetuating their species, it is but reasonable that they
should set about that business at once, and give up the
folly of rollicking after grasshoppers and butterflies.

It is, however, a melancholy fact that the extermination
of this noble fish has been commensurate with the civili-
sation and settlement of the country. A very few years
back every stream on both sides of the St. Lawrence from
G-aspe and Labrador to the Falls of Niagara abounded with
salmon ; and it is no small reflection upon the legislators
of the country, that they have suffered such a valuable
article of commerce to be so wantonly and recklessly
destroyed. The spear of the Indian would never have
accomplished this ; the gill net of the settler would never

FISH DESTROYED BY MILL DAMS. 21

have effected it ; the fly of the angler would have revolted
from such an outrage; the whole evil has arisen from
neglect in the formation of mill dams. No man in his
senses will say that in a young country any obstruction
should be thrown in the way of the erection of mills ; but
every man of reflection will grant that where they are
built the rivers should not be so completely blocked up
as to prevent a single salmon from ascending them.
There is no difficulty, no additional expense, in leaving an
opening sufficient for this purpose, when it is attended to
during the construction of the dam. Eecently, however,
an Act of Parliament for obtaining and enforcing such a
provision has been passed. In Canada salmon would not
only supply a recreation to the rich man, but a wholesome
and luxurious article of food to the tiller of the soil.
Should the latter once be enabled to obtain a few from
his own waters, which would be effected by allowing some
of them to pass upwards during the summer, there can be
no doubt that the present rapid course towards the utter
extinction of this noble fish would be effectually arrested.

When we assert that there is no salmon fishing to be
found westwards of Quebec, except in the Jacques Cartier,
we of course do not allude to the salmon of the great lakes,
which is a distinct fish from the true Salmo Salar. The
differences between them it is not necessary here to
specify ; that will be more properly done should we ever
be induced to treat of the inland waters of Canada : our

c 3

22 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

business now is with salmon fishing proper ; such as it has
been in Scotland, Ireland, Norway and England. All we
shall at present say is, that pleasant and delightful as it
is to wander along the devious banks of a pastoral stream,
broken into the varieties of sharp falls and smooth deep
reaches, to inhale the odours of the blooming thorn, " the
wild rose, and the woodbine sweet;" to mark from
beneath the overhanging fringed bank, the alarmed flight
of the dingy water-hen or painted halcyon : or see hover-
ing over the stilly sheltered pool the dragon-fly, proudly
arrayed in all his glorious sheen of azure, and tourquois, and
emerald, and royal purple, and burnished gold, — that the
lake, too, has its charms of natural objects and locomotion,
of a kind peculiar to itself. The lounging, reclining ease,
while borne along the undulating waves, your flies or
minnow trolling after you ; the pleasing alarm when the
music of your revolving wheel announces a stricken fish ;
the action of hope and of exercise while on the active
angle ; the varying appearance of the surrounding shores,
and the delightful and all-engrossing anxiety felt from the
moment one of these jnionstrous fish is hooked until it is
safe in the bottom of the skiff, — are pleasures of which the
true disciple of old Isaac Walton can alone form a compe-
tent notion ; then, as advancing from shore to shore, one
sees, when the water is clear, the bottom diversified and
broken with silvery sand and marl, aquatic vegetation, or
ponderous and abrupt rocks, less and less distinct till lost

THE JACQUES CARTIER. 23

and involved in the profound deep ; then, when imagina-
tion leagued with knowledge pierces the dark abyss,
boldly invading the antediluvian paths and caverns which
only the last universal conflagration shall lay bare of the
waters deposited upon them by the great deluge : how
rich, various, and unremitting, are the occupations of the
mind which is not rendered sluggish by the torpor of
ignorance, or chilled in its aspirations by the coldness of
infidelity. Eiver angling certainly requires more delicacy
and art in its pursuit, but that of the Lakes of Canada
has a character of expansion and sublimity which must
also recommend it to the reflecting mind. At all events,
having lived for nearly four years on an island in the
greatest of the Canadian lakes, I have come to the con-
clusion that extremely agreeable fishing is to be found in
them, and that Marmontel was wise when he said, " Quand
on n'a pas ce que Ton aime, il faut aimer ce que
Ton a."

But with regard to the Jacques Cartier ; where is it ?
how is it to be approached ? and what sort of fishing is to
be found there ? It is within thirty miles, or three hours'
drive, of Quebec. The caleshes of the country are the
vehicles best adapted for the roads which lead to it, and
they are always to be had, with civil drivers, who will
gladly convey you there for three dollars, twelve British
shillings. I have frequently left Montreal at six o'clock
in the evening, having previously written to a friend to

C 4

24 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

have a calesh in waiting for me in the morning, arrived at
Quebec at five o'clock A. M., started immediately, break-
fasted gloriously at Billy Button's, nine miles from the city,
and before one o'clock have had my first fish killed.

For the following description of this very beautiful
stream and the fishing in it, I am mainly indebted to Staff
Surgeon Henry, who, in a most interesting volume called
(s Trifles from my Portfolio," has told some of his ex-
periences with the pen of a scholar, a gentleman, and a
sportsman.

There are three roads from Quebec to the Jacques
Cartier — that along the shore of the St. Lawrence is one of
the finest drives in the province for picturesque and
panoramic prospects, but that by St. Foy is usually pre-
ferred as the least hilly, and the shortest, the views from
it also are particularly beautiful. The Jacques Cartier
takes its name from Jacques Cartier, the intrepid and
persevering French navigator, who once wintered at its
mouth. It is as large as the Thames above the tide, but
of a very different character. It takes its rise several
hundred miles north-east of Quebec, running for a long
way through mountain defiles, impeded by chaotic rocks,
whose primitive hardness almost defies its power. At
length, escaping from the mountains, it subsides into a
tranquil stream, until it approaches to Dery's Bridge, where
it becomes extremely rapid, and has scooped out for itself
a wide, deep, and most singular bed in the limestone,

M. TEEPANNIER. 25

about half a mile in length, through which it pours its
formidable torrent with most picturesque impetuosity.

A white cottage on the western bank of the river imme-
diately adjoining the romantic-looking bridge, the habi-
tation of Louis Dery, is the chief resort of fishermen during
the season ; but there is another on the hill on the eastern
bank, inhabited by a worthy inhabitant named Trepannier,
which, if its situation is not quite so romantic, is com-
pensated for by its greater airiness ; and I can fearlessly
assert that any one who sets up his abode in it will have
nothing to complain of on the score of the cleanliness,
civility, and honesty of the inmates. Even fishing tackle is
there safe from depredation, and that I have never been
able to say of any other house I have been domiciled in
any part of the world ; and wonderful to say, Trepannier is
somewhat of a poacher, a rude but very successful fisherman,
and an excellent guide and gaffman. Soyer ought to have
made a pilgrimage to Jacques Cartier to learn Madame Tre-
pannier's mode of cooking wild pigeons with French beans.
The beautiful glen through which this river flows, is
bounded by high, nay lofty banks, whose slope affords soil
for a great variety of umbrageous forest trees ; with here
and there a tall pine rising above the thick mass of
foliage. The mountain ash grows in abundance. Part of
the rock for twenty or thirty yards from the river is
interspersed with dwarf trees and shrubs, and along its
surface innumerable little streamlets of the purest and

26 SALMON FISHINQ IN CANADA.

coldest spring water run sparkling from the bank. On
one side of the most rapid part, huge cedars growing out
from the fissures of the rocks fling their grotesque arms
far across the stream. Nor are floral ornaments wanting
in this scene of sylvan wildness and beauty ; wild flowers
are found in great variety and profusion.

The river is a succession of rapids and pools from the
St. Lawrence to the fishing ground, which is a distance of
nearly nine miles; the fish have consequently a rough
journey and are often severely hurt in their toilsome
voyage ; but when they reach the lower end of the gorge
cut in the rock by the force of the water below the bridge,
their troubles are only beginning, for there they meet a
torrent of such magnitude and power as no fish can
possibly surmount unless when the water is low.

Until within a few months, the poor salmon — like the
hapless flying fish which escapes the albatross and gull only
to fall into the mouths of the bonito and albacore — when
they had evaded the tempting snares of the angler, sur-
mounted the lower rapids, and worked themselves with
immense labour through the terrible torrent in the chasm
to the very top, there they found an absolute cataract to
leap up, worse than all that was past. But this was not
all. Here there is a circular and lateral recess at the
bottom, worn into the rock by an eddy, and forming a
small, and comparatively quiet spot : in this boiling and
raging torrent, where they are forced to stop for breath

LOUIS DEEY. 27

before attempting to overcome the last grand impediment,
whilst reposing at this resting place, dreaming of no evil
from human hand, and occupied only with their fluvial
difficulties, Louis Dery used quietly to approach the
roaring gulf, lower into its depths a ladder about five and
twenty feet long, which, being held in its perilous position
by his wife, he clung to with one hand, while with the
other armed with a long-handled-polenet, he mercilessly
scooped out four, five, or six fine salmon at a time,—
handing the pole of the net to his wife, who assisted him
in drawing them up the side of the precipice, and carrying
them alive and with care to a reservoir of water filled by
copious springs only a few paces distant ; where the
captives used to remain until a sufficient number was
collected to be sent to the Quebec market.

When the water was low, Dery used sometimes to descend
this dangerous ladder without the assistance of his wife ; and
rumour says that she often took his place on the slippery
rounds, when any undue excitement rendered it probable
that his footing would not be so firm or his hand so steady
as usual.

But this wholesale slaughter is now at an end; the
fishing of the river has been leased by a gentleman of
Quebec, whose object is to protect and perpetuate the
salmon, while affording to the fair fisherman every reason-
able opportunity for the enjoyment of a day's sport.

Strange names have been given by the Canadians to the

28 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

different holes and pools formed by the eddies of this
beautiful stream. Immediately under the bank of Dery's
garden is a recess, worn deep in the rocky bank and shaded
by the overhanging precipice, called the "Trou noir."
This pool is close by the bridge, from whence the fish in
it may be distinctly seen, but not so easily hooked.

A little lower down, on the opposite side, the rock slopes
to within about nine feet of the water, and there forms a
slippery ledge, standing upon which fish may be hooked in
the quiet eddy below; and there must all the skill and
energy of the fisherman be put forth, for from this eddy
rushes a raging torrent, through which it requires the
hand of an artist and the activity of a gladiator to guide a
salmon to the " Petit Eets," another small pool, where he
will only rest for a moment, and then pursue his way to
the most famous spot in the river, which is called "1'Hopital,"
where the salmon are supposed to congregate to be cured
of any wounds and bruises which they may have had
inflicted upon them in the passage from the ocean. For
half a mile below this, there is at times most excellent
fishing in several beautiful pools, the locality of which
will be best understood by reference to a map. The
best of them, which is without a French patronymic, I
have called the " Head of the Fall," and is immediately
above a sloping rock running quite across the stream,
where the water makes a " chute," or rather runs rapidly
down a long and steep inclined plane. This pool is only

A FLY EECOYERED. 29

to be well fished from the left or eastern bank of the river,
and by wading about to your knees ; but great caution is
requisite in doing so, for the ledge of rock on which you
have to tread, shoals away suddenly under water and is
very slippery ; so that if the fisherman should take one step
too much in advance, or slip or overbalance himself in
throwing his line or in playing a fish, he will go pop into
eighteen feet water, with a powerful current carrying him
towards the fall, — and then I would not be in his coat for
the bishopric of Durham.

The pool on the opposite or western side of the river,
which is fished from the island, is equally dangerous from
a similar cause, requiring a trusty guide in the first in-
troduction to it, and a careful treading at all times.

In the first-named pool a circumstance occurred to me,
which I have often heard has happened to others, but
which was the only instance which I ever saw in a long-
experience of salmon fishing. About fifteen years ago,
I was fishing the pool ; beside me, and holding my gaff,
stood Mr. Eoss of the Eifles. I hooked a fish about eight
pounds' weight, which made some lively runs and violent
leaps ; after a while I brought him sufficiently near to the
bank, when Mr. Eoss gaffed him in his usual masterly style,
upon which my fly at once fell from his mouth ; whereupon
I proceeded to finish him by a blow or two upon the head,
when my friend cried out, " Take care of your fly ! take care
of your fly ! " Knowing that I had laid my fly carefully

30 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

upon the green sward along with my rod, I looked in his
face for an explanation, when he pointed to the salmon's
head, where, to my surprise, I saw another fly fast hooked
close under his eye. Eoss looked even more surprised
than I did, for upon examination he found that the fly was
his own, being one which he had lost the day before in a
fish, in the same pool. This was a small fly, tied by
Martin Kelly, whose materials and manufacture appear to
me to be more favoured by anglers, for the simple reason
that they are more attractive to the fish, than those of any
other manipulator.

There is not room on this river for more than three rods,
yet I have reckoned fourteen men fishing it keenly at the
same time, the most of whom had some sport. The fish
do not run very large here, nor have I ever known any one
kill more than five or six fish in one day, and this was
after the salmon had changed their positions in the pools
in consequence of a flood.

In visiting Dery's Bridge, the traveller will find it for
his advantage to bring with him some tea, sugar, fresh
meat, and whatever he may choose to drink. I prefer
beer, and as good as any in the world can be had at
Boswell's Brewery in Quebec. Nothing can possibly exceed
the flavour and refreshing exhilaration produced by this
delightful beverage, when after having lain for two or
three hours in one of the countless cool springs which flow
from the banks of the Jacques Cartier, a bottle of it is

BOSWELL'S BOTTLED BEEE. 31

opened and applied to the parched fauces of the angler, who
has been for the same length of time pursuing his vocation
under the beams of a broiling Canadian sun.

During the same summer in which I recovered Mr.
Boss's fly in so unusual a manner, intending to visit the
Jacques Cartier, I wrote to a valued and excellent friend
of mine, who had promised to accompany me, to have a
calesh ready on a certain morning, to look after the com-
missariat department, and above all not to neglect to lay in
a plentiful store of BoswelPs bottled beer. On my arrival
at the wharf of Quebec there I found my friend, as
punctual as the sun, and with him two caleshes, one well
packed with hampers, deal boxes, and butcher's baskets,
into which we transferred our portmanteaus, fishing rods,
&c., in the other we seated ourselves, the more comfortably
for being unencumbered with luggage. Not doubting for
a moment, the kind attention of my good friend to my
request for plenty of beer, we jolted cheerfully along on
our road, recounting to each other the news and gossip of
the cities in which we respectively dwelt, anticipating a
mutton chop at Trepannier's, and a successful evening's
fishing. To inquire or to doubt about the presence of the
beer never entered into my imagination. At length
we arrived at our destination, unpacked our baggage
waggon, took possession of our neat and clean bedrooms,
and having given Madame Trepannier directions about
luncheon, I suggested to my fellow traveller the pro-

32 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

priety of putting a bottle of beer to cool in one of the cold
springs ; upon which his face assumed a look of vacancy,
his lip quivered with a malicious smile, and his eyes were
cast down as if with shame. At last doubt laid her icy
hand upon my heart, and I exclaimed in agony, " You
have forgotten the beer ? " He at once confessed he
had brought no beer. And he urged only one plea in
palliation — there was nothing could justify him — he had
brought plenty of champagne. It was " Euinarts et Fils,"
and we managed with it; but frequently in the course of the
week I contrived to remind him of his iniquity; asking him
at breakfast to take another cup of beer, as if in mistake
for tea ; inviting him at dinner to pledge me in a glass of
beer, when we had only the finest wine to drink ; until I
teased him so much about the beer, that he, the very best-
tempered fellow upon earth, became rather dangerous, and
it was not quite safe to mention " beer " in the same room
with him ; in fact I only did so latterly when we were
fishing on opposite sides of the stream.

At length came Sunday ; a day not to be desecrated by
the Christian angler. After breakfast and a walk on the
lofty bank, we collected all who would join with us in
prayer and in searching a portion of the Word of Truth ;
and subsequently strolled along the river side, picked wild
raspberries, examined the curious traces and remains of
old organised existence that abounded in the limestone;
collected bouquets of hairbells, or borrowed its pitcher

SCENERY. 33

from the provident Sarracenia. After a long and pleasant
walk we sat down on a high bank, commanding an ex-
tensive view of the stream. The day was deliciously clear
and calm, even the leaf of the mountain ash was motionless,
and every object round us appeared to harmonise in deep
quiescence with the boon of Sabbatical rest, conferred by
its Creator upon a toiling world. Beneath us flowed the
now placid river, its low and endless monotony telling of
that Almighty energy which first set it in motion, and
bade it be

" in omne volubilis JEvum ; "

whilst the twitter of the swallow as it shot along the surface
of the water, the distant sound of the cow-bells, and the
cooing of the wild pigeon amidst the thick foliage of the
banks, joined in producing a pleasing and appropriate
harmony.

" Through glades and glooms the mingled measure stole,
' Or o'er our favourite stream' with fond delay —

Bound an holy calm diffusing,

Love of peace and lonely musing
In hollow murmurs died away."

But this was no scene for melancholy. Who with a
clear conscience could feel otherwise than happy and
tranquil where every object round — bird, tree, flower,
stream, and the stainless azure that o'ercanopied the

D

34 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

whole, breathed peace and security, the holy repose of
nature ! *

My companion appeared particularly happy and cheerful ;
I therefore ventured, and drawing from my side pocket a
periodical of the day read to him the following copy of
verses: —

SIR JOEAM A BURTON.

A LEGEND OF

SIR JOEAM A BURTON went to sup

One night with the Abbot of Swigglesea ;

Sir Joram a Burton took a cup

Too much of the Abbot his Malvoisie.

Like many another valiant knight,

By a flagon or two the worse for wine,
Sir Joram became inclined to fight,

And vow'd he would go to Palestine.

Sir Joram a Burton woke next morn

With a headache — his temples were like to split;
Quoth he, as he thought of the oath he'd sworn,
" I have made a right goodly mess of it.

" G-ood Ellen, my lady, half-seas o'er
I got yester even, I grieve to say,
And when I was so far gone, I swore
I 'd cross then to Palestine all the way."

" Oh, tilly vally, my lord ! " cried she ;

Said he, "I have sworn it by the rood ! "
" That's always the way," said the fair ladye,

" With knights when they 've gotten a little screw'd.

* Dr. Henry.

SIR JOEAM A BURTON. 35

" That capon," he said, " must have been too fat,
Too rich by a deal must have been that chine ! "

"Nay, certes," quoth Ellen, "it was not that,
It was all along of the plaguey wine."

" It booteth not now thereof to clack,

Eftsoons must thy liege lord cut and run ;
My carpet-bag, therefore, I prithee, pack " —
" I cannot, my lord, till our washing 's done."

" Now, an I must stay till our washing's done,

I '11 tell thee, my lady, what we will do ;
We '11 set us to work, and a mighty tun
Of the strongest treble X ale we '11 brew.

" And, Nell, on the day of thy lord's return,

An it pleasure the pigs, my lady dear,
Old Eose will we sing, the bellows burn,
And tap, on the strength of it, that same beer."

They summon' d their vassals, the Knight and Dame,

To aid in the brewing, both great and small ;
The Abbot of Swigglesea also came,

To look on at the work, unto Burton Hall.

To each twelve gallons of liquor stout

They added of malt good bushels three,
And wormwood — for hops were not found out —

In measure befitting and right degree.

'Twas merry, 'twas merry at Burton Towers,
Whilst they were a-brewing this wondrous ale ;

And sweeter by far than sweetest flowers,
Was the perfume that floated in Burton Vale.

The wort in the mighty tun was stored ;

Sir Joram a Burton could not write,
But his mark thereon he three times scored,

In the wise of a good old English knight.

36 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

And then in the cellar they stowed the tun,

Whose staves were made out of a huge oak-tree ;

And lastly, the brewage, when 't was done,
"Was blest by the Abbot of Swigglesea.

Sir Joram a Burton then farewell

Bade unto Dame Ellen, his lady dear ;
" Seven years and a day," he said, " sweet Nell,
Now keep me, I charge thee, that tun of beer.

" Seven years and a day, good lady mine,
Now keep that barrel of ale," quoth he ;

" If then I return not from Palestine

Be certain that there is an end of me."

Away then Sir Joram a Burton sped

With target and battle-axe, lance and brand ;

And he broke full many a Saracen's head,
Crusading afar in the Paynim land.

The mitred Abbot of Swigglesea

Came often the heart of the Dame to cheer ;
And ever before he went, said he,
" I hope it's all right with that same beer."

Now after six years had taren their flight
111 tidings there came from beyond the main,

That good Sir Joram a Burton, knight,
In battle had been by the Paynim slain.

The Abbot of Swigglesea came o'er,

Some comfort to speak in Dame Ellen's ear :
" Good lady," quoth he, " come weep no more :

And now, then, as touching that self-same beer ?

. " Bestow us that liquor, lady fair,

Bestow it on Swigglesea's good Abbaye,
In payment whereof each holy frere

Will sing for Sir Joram his soul for aye."

SIE JOEAM A BURTON. 37

1 Now nay, Father Abbot, I will do

According to that my liege lord said ;
Sir Joram's behest I will cleave unto,

No matter an he be alive or dead.

" It is not so long, I wot, to bide,

The time will be up in another year."

" Thou speakest good sooth," the Abbot cried,

" But I think ye mote just as weU tap that beer."

Seven years and a day their course had run,
And vassals and vavasours, one and all,

Were gather' d together around the tun,
Adown in the cellar of Burton Hall

And there was the Abbot of Swigglesea,

Each week had he come throughout all the year,

And ever his word was, " Sweet ladye,
I think ye mote venture to tap that beer."

They counted the minutes till twelve rung out ;

Eight welcome, in sooth, was that sound to hear :
" Time 's up," cried the Abbot ; " now about,
And let us immediately tap that beer."

" E'en so," quoth a Palmer clad in grey,

Who thither had come with the holy freres.

" How now ? " said the Abbot. " Ha ! heydey !
Sir Malapert, give thyself none of thine airs."

" Sir Malapert ? Nay," quoth the Palmer, " lo !
Behold, Father Abbot; behold, good wife; "
And there, as he cast his gown him fro,
Stood Sir Joram a Burton, as large as life.

" My death was a hoax, sweet Nell, to test
Thy troth, though I wist that it ne'er would fail,

Yet wish'd I to prove thy faithful breast ;
And I 'm happy to find thou hast kept that ale.

D 3

38 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

" Lord Abbot, although, thou canst not sing

For the rest of Sir Joram a Burton's soul,
Thou 'It deem it, I trow, as good a thing
To drink to his health in a nut-brown bowl."

" Content," said the Abbot, " faith am I,
Sir Joram, I joy to behold thee here ;
The rather, that I am exceeding dry,
And at last we are going to tap that beer."

Dame Ellen was now a glad ladye,

As ever you saw on a summer's day ;
And thus with all goodwives may it be,

Who the will of their own liege lords obey.

So seeing Sir Joram's safe return,

They revell'd and feasted, and made good cheer !

Old Kose did sing, and the bellows burn,
And drank, on the strength of it, all that beer.

My friend was amused, but at the same time fearful
that he was getting a premeditated quizzing ; the sunshine
of good humour however passed over him, and he frankly
confessed that he had designedly left the beer behind,
believing that champagne was a better drink. So here
the matter ended.

CHAPTEE III.

WHAT FLIES AEE SUITED FOB CANADA?

D 4

Fide, sed cui vide.

41

CHAP. III.

WHAT FLIES ARE SUITED FOR CANADA?

I/THOUGH perfectly
aware that only a very
general and imperfect
answer has been given
to the question at the
head of the last chap-
ter, I prefer asking and
answering another in
this one, in order that
the angler who resolves
to visit the Jacques Cartier, may know with what to try his
hand there, and for the reason that I have found the same
flies which were successful in that river, as killing as any
others in the streams and pools lying to the eastward of
Quebec, the description of and mode of approaching
which will constitute the greater part of this little book.

The flies I have invariably found the best are those
which the Shannon fishermen call " tassels," that is, the
wings of which are composed of a number of minute fibres

42 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

of the feathers of different birds, in which no one colour
largely predominates; the whole taken together being
rather of a rich brown than of a gaudy hue. * The favourite
bodies are made of mohair of every tint, from "fiery
brown " to " dark claret." The tinsel or twist gold or
silver, the streamer or tail a small feather from the golden
pheasant's topknot. When however I speak of size, I do
not mean to have it inferred that larger flies are never to
be used, nor smaller ones tried ; every fisherman knows
that the size of his fly should be proportioned to the depth
of the water in which he angles; flies may therefore,
generally, be of the medium size, with this proviso, that
I have very seldom found larger flies of any use, and
have often had good sport with smaller ones.

Having mentioned " fiery brown " in the foregoing para-
graph, it occurs to me to state that I do not know any
colour which is so difficult to be obtained, or concerning
which there are so many conflicting opinions. When I
lived in the county of Clare, and fished Kossroe Lake, a
son of a Captain Bridgeman, who resided in the neighbour-
hood, used frequently to accompany me in my excursions,
and whenever the trout were sulky and the sport was dull,
my young friend used to heave a heavy sigh, and utter an
ardent wish that we had " one fly made of his father's real
fiery brown." As this was often the case, and we could not by
any manoeuvring get hold of the old gentleman's book of
colours, I wrote to Martin Kelly to send me a dozen of

" FIERY BROWNS." 43

" fiery browns." In a few days I received the flies, which
appeared to me to be everything that a man or a trout
could wish for, in an extremely civil letter from old
Martin, in which he expressed an ardent hope that they
would be found according to order, and an earnest expec-
tation of further commands. I hastened to notice my
friend Bridgeman to meet me at Eoger Hickey's, the usual
rendezvous, early on the following morning, convinced
that I had got the real thing, and that we should have a boat
full of trout before the shades of evening fell upon us.
When at length we had got under weigh, I handed my
tail fly to my companion with the question, " Well, Bridge-
man, what do you think of that ? "

" Well," said he, " that's a neat fly, and ought to do."

« That's the < fiery brown ' " said I.

" Oh no," said he, " it's a good brown, but it's not the
real fiery brown."

Our sport on this occasion was indifferent, so on
the following day I addressed another epistle to old Martin
Kelly, telling him I was pleased with the flies he had sent
me, and convinced that earlier in the season they would
have done good work, and requesting him to send me a
dozen of the real fiery browns of the same size. In due
time Martin transmitted to me the flies, stating that
extreme pains had been taken to meet my wishes; and
expressing a confident hope that they would give satis-
faction.

44 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Again I summoned my friend Bridgeman ; again we
failed to realise the sport which he had always promised
me from the possession and exhibition of " the real fiery
brown." Eather impatient at the bad sport, and disgusted
at the imputation cast upon the credit of my ancient
friend Martin, I held a fly between Bridgeman's eyes and
the light, and rather testily asked him, while I pointed to
the glistening fibres in the body; "If that is not fiery
brown, will you be good enough to tell me what is ? "

" Oh," said he, " the fly is well enough, and as neatly
tied as one could wish ; but still it's not the real fiery
brown."

Strong in my faith in old Martin, I again addressed him,
emphasising in my order for another dozen of flies the word
" real ; " again I had an extremely civil reply, enclosing
another dozen of well-tied flies, and assuring me that, in
compliance with my former orders, he had done his utmost,
as well as in the present instance, to meet my wishes ; and
venturing very respectfully to suggest that I should send
him a pattern of the coloured fly I required, in which case
he had no doubt but that he would execute the order in
such a manner as to give satisfaction. In answer to which,
after having failed to have any great success with the flies
he enclosed, I wrote to him to say " that a specimen or
pattern of the real fiery brown was the very thing of
which I was in search, and that if he could not furnish it
I must only say that it was by no means creditable to his

45

establishment." Upon this I received a short well-written
letter, in which the old man asserted that he had spared no
pains, having sent to both Scotland and England for
varieties of the fiery brown, specimens of all of which he
had sent me; but that he perceived with regret that
in the present instance he could not please me, and begged
therefore very respectfully to give up the commission."
Very shortly after the termination of this correspondence,
which was seriously commenced, and towards the conclu-
sion carried on in banter, old Martin Kelly died ; and one
of my imaginative friends insisted that his inability to
discover the real fiery brown, was the cause of his illness
and his death. I should add that the desire for the real
fiery brown had spread very widely amongst Irish fishermen
at this time, several having read the letters above alluded
to, and mentioned the matter to others, so that I believe
few days passed over during that summer in which there
was not some application at Kelly's shop in Sackville
Street for this mysterious and unobtainable fly.

Several years subsequent to these events, and after I had
been four years in Canada, and had ascertained the
virtues of the fiery brown in the waters of the Marguarite
and Eschemin, having occasion to write to my old friend,
college companion, and law agent about some legal matters,
I requested him to send me a small parcel of that colour
in his reply, to which request I received the following
answer :

46 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

•

"Dublin, 41 Upper M. Street.
19th July, 1845.

"Mr DEAR FRIEND, — I rejoiced at receiving your epistle,
notwithstanding that it was silent as to my last to
you. Perhaps it will not surprise you to learn that I
have cut the old profession, and become a probationer at
the * otium cum dignitate,' whereby and by which I have
so totally forgotten everything belonging to law, that I am
obliged to resort for explanation of any thing legal to my
professional adviser. It follows therefore that it is out of
my power to tell you what you are to do with Bluack.
When I was in the profession, as well as I can recollect, I
would have advised a bill to remove him or make him
account; for, by the piper, he seems a most negligent
trustee in one respect, inasmuch as he leaves the money
he should take and make fructify — uselessly lying in the
bank, and the cash he has taken into his employment he
employs to his own benefit and your loss. I am told he
is an honourable man and of strict integrity, but, by the
honour of man, he has a queer way of showing it. How-
ever, as you do not much want it now, it will, I suppose,
accumulate for the benefit of those who shall come after
you, called posterity.

• " I essayed to gratify your desire for the e Fiery Brown,'
immediately upon learning your wishes, and 'I'll ever
remember the day,' as the song has it, for f may I never
do an ill turn ' but I was near suffering for it.

" FIERY BROWNS." 47

" The most natural place for getting the fiery brown was
of course the most celebrated, and the most convenient, so
in I toddled to Martin Kelly's. It goes by the same name
still.

" And, ' Pray,' says I, ' have you got any fiery brown ? '

u ' Say that again,' says a fellow with an ugly aspect,
that put me in acute remembrance of your brother-in-law
Dr. Bell.

" f Have you any fiery brown ? ' said I again.

" f Oh by the holy,' says he, ( you're one of the gang
that killed my father — fire me if I dont brown you.'

" And without doubt he seemed bent on making me black
and blue, for he let fly the butt of a salmon rod at me,
which, most fortunately for me, being misdirected by his
wrath, went against the glass door of the shop, which it
smashed. I forthwith threw myself on the protection of a
policeman who was passing, and who advised me to charge
him ; this however I declined to do, dreading the publicity
of so ridiculous a history as would have come out, and
which, as sure as a gun, would have been laid hold of by
Lever, and I'd have been persecuted to the death by the
wags.

The next day I went to a decent man of less notoriety,
who does a little splicing for me now and then, and sells
me flies. On my proceeding to make the inquiry for you,
he grew very red about the gills, and said he was " sorry to
find I came to humbug him." I assured him I had no

48 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

such intention, and that I wanted the article for a gentle-
man in Canada. f Oh now,' said he, ( I am sure you're
going it, for it was a fellow who went there that killed poor
Kelly with his fiery brown ; ' and then altering his tone he
added, 6 Sir, I'd rather not have anything to do with the
fiery brown at any price ; I am striving to rear a large
small family, and for (rod's sake, Sir, leave me to do so in
peace.'

"Now I'll tell yon what I did next. I followed Kelly's
example, and gave up the commission, but I hope it will
not cost me my life. Any other kind of brown you want
I'll do my utmost to procure, but just don't ask me to
mention fiery brown again in Dublin, or I think it will
blow up the city.

" 1st August, 1845.

" After I had written the foregoing, and before I could
seal and despatch it, I happened to meet in the street
your friend Bomford, and amongst other topics of con-
versation turned up your commission to me for the fiery
brown, and my failures. ' Oh,' said he, ' come with me to
Ettingsal on the quay, he does a deal of business in
Gralway and knows me very well.' Of course as I was
most anxious to get you what you wished for, I went with
Bomford to the shop. ' Pray,' said I, in the most bland
manner possible, f Can you procure me some fiery brown ? '
Whereupon, the individual who was behind the counter.

FIERY BROWN. 49

after looking steadily at us in silence for a minute or so, drew
up his left hand to a level with his mouth, applies the
thumb in a very significant manner to the tip of his nose,
protrudes a considerable length of tongue, cuts some
cabalistic figure or motion with his right hand, and asks
me if — ' my mother is aware that I am out ? '

"I am fearful, my boy. that you have been playing
tricks with me, and that either no such thing ever existed
as pig's wool, or that a certain black gentleman shaved it
all off when he took to amusing hisself in that way ; but I
am as

Ever your affectionate friend,

T B ."

I need not take the trouble to explain to my piscatorial
readers — and I desire no others — that the fiery brown is
now well understood, and maybe obtained not only at Martin
Kelly's but at any other respectable fishing tackle warehouse,
without the slightest danger of being smitten with a
salmon rod or of disturbing the peace of an industrious
tradesman. And moreover I would not advise any vendor
of fishing tackle to come to Canada without an ample
supply of it, though I am quite confident that the exact
hue of the real fiery brown will with difficulty be agreed
upon by any two fishermen or manufacturers.

But now we must proceed to give some more particular
account of the flies which we have found to be best adapted

E

50 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

for the Canadian waters, and to which we previously al-
luded. The first in order is No. 1., called Louise ; and an
extremely beautiful fly it is, having the wings composed of
fibres from the golden pheasant's topknot, breast feather
and tail, with sprigs from the green parrot, blue macaw,
and kingfisher; the body is of fiery brown mohair with
gold twist ; the head of orange mohair ; the tail a single
feather from the golden pheasant's topknot, reddish brown
hackle, and jay legs.

No. 2. or Edwin, is a much more simple fly and often
equally efficacious amongst the fins, the wings being
composed of the golden pheasant's tail feather with a dash
of yellow macaw; the body yellow mohair, ribs of black
silk, head black mohair, tail golden pheasant topknot,
hackle yellow, and scarlet silk tip.

No. 3. Forsyth. Wings of yellow macaw with a slight
dash of mallard wing at each side; yellow mohair body
with black ribs ; head black, tail golden pheasant topknot,
hackle yellow, with light blue silk tip.

No. 4. Stephens. Wings of golden pheasant breast
feather, with a slight mixture of mallard ; body of reddish
brick coloured silk gold twist, head black ostrich; tail
golden pheasant topknot; hackle red to match the body,
tip blue silk.

No. 5. Koss. Wings of mallard and peacock's herl;
body cinnamon-coloured silk gold twist ; no head ; tail green
parrot, red and black hackles, and black tip.

GOOD KILLING FLIES. 51

No. 6. The Parson. This is a beautiful and efficient
fly. The wings are mixed, and very similar to those in
No. 1, but have a slight mixture of wood duck in them ;
the body is of very dark claret silk with gold twist; head
black ostrich ; tail golden pheasant topknot, hackle dark
claret ; legs blue, with a tip of yellow and gold.

No. 7. Strachan. Mixed wing chiefly of golden pheasant
tail, yellow macaw, and jay's wing ; body of crimson silk
with gold twist ; head black ostrich ; tail golden pheasant ;
black hackle with jay's wing / legs ^tip yellow and gold.

No. 8. Langevin. Wings, body, tail, hackle, legs, tip
all yellow ; made of the dyed feathers of the white goose ;
the head of black ostrich and the twist of black silk.

This latter is indigenous, I believe, to Quebec, I at least
have never seen it any where else, though on the Shannon
I have used a somewhat similar fly composed altogether of
the bright feathers of the golden pheasant's topknot ; but
peculiar though it be, the gentleman whose name it bears
seldom fishes with any other, and he manages to hook as
many fish in the Jacques Cartier as most other people. I
have seen him fish with one of these flies until almost all
the dye was washed out of it, in fact until it was nearly
white, and do good work with it in that state. It is
however so similar to No. 3, the colours of which are
permanent, composed as it is of real feathers, that I greatly
prefer the latter.

In giving the foregoing list of flies and of their com-

E 2

52 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

ponent parts, I do not by any means intend to assert that
they are the only flies which will be successful in the
Canadian rivers ; on the contrary I am certain that others
will be found killing also. I have myself lured the noble
salmon with almost every description that is to be found
in the books of practitioners or in the stores of manu-
facturers ; and at times have been tempted to believe that
it mattered not what a man fished with, in fact that they
would take anything. But I have had occasion to change
my mind : they are not always in this generous mood, and
it is when they are chary and shy, cautious and lazy, that
we value the fly which draws them from their lurking
places and rouses them into action. Such, my friends and
I have found the above-named flies to be ; and I would
recommend any man who sets forth on a pilgrimage to the
rivers on the eastward of Quebec, to take at least twelve
dozen of them, well and firmly tied, on double and single
gut, for he will require both, in addition to all the materials
for tying others.

Let no man say here, " I cannot tie flies, and I would
not be bothered with doing so even if I could." To any
one who would feel inclined to utter such an exclamation
I would say, " Gro to the shop of any respectable manu-
facturer or to the sanctum of any piscatorial friend, and
get one or two lessons in the art of tying, and then if your
own ingenuity won't help you to the rest, you are not fit to
be a fisherman, for you know not really what the pleasure of

WHIPPING. 53

killing a salmon is, until you kill him with a fly of your
own making."

I shall not attempt to give any directions with regard to
making flies, for no man ever yet learned to tie them from
books. I make but one observation, and that is well
worth attending to. The first operation in the construction
of a fly is that of whipping the gut firmly on to your
hook : if this is not well done, all your subsequent operations
will but lead to disappointment ; for when after all your
trouble and labour you have hooked a fish, he will walk off
with your feathers, tinsel, dubbing, hackles, and hook,
leaving you fishing rod in hand to admire the far end of
your casting line twirling gracefully in the air. To
avoid this misfortune, I have found it to be a good plan
to whip the gut on five or six hooks at a time, and then to
varnish the whipping with the best opal varnish, and hang
them up in the sun for a day or two to dry, before I
proceeded any farther in the manipulation of the fly.
The only piece of advice I shall give with regard to tying
flies, is to do the same thing or to see it done ; for as I
said before, it is well worth attending to.

I have said that each man making a tour to the rivers
eastward of Quebec, ought to have twelve dozen of flies
ready to begin with, and that in addition he ought to
have all the materials for tying more. It is very likely
then that I may be asked for a list of these materials, and

£ 3

54 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

at all events it will not encumber these pages much to set
it down here.

Limerick hooks of every size, or Philip's of Dublin.

Mohair dubbing of every colour, especially fiery brown.

Moss silk of all colours for bodies of flies.

Tying silk, fine and strong.

Tinsel and twist, narrow, both of gold and silver.

Best varnish.

Golden pheasant, top knot feathers in abundance.

„ „ , tail feathers.

„ „ , breast feathers.

Himalaya pheasant, hackles of every shade, especially clarets.
Jay hackles, a few.
Mallard, plain and tinted.
Wood duck.

Turkey, tail feathers, if possible of the Wild Turkey.
Macaw, blue and yellow, but especially the small yellow feathers.
Black ostrich.
Peacock's herl.
Argus pheasant, tail and wing.

In writing of flies for the Canadian rivers I ought not to
omit to state, that in every stream where I have found
salmon, except the Jacques Cartier, the sea trout are to be
met with in extraordinary abundance, and that they rise
freely at any of the usual salmon flies, provided they are
made of a small size, but that the most attractive I know
of is a small-sized fly, with a scarlet silk body, gold twist,
red hackle, and stair's wing.

The avidity with which these fish take, their great size,
beautiful shape, and exquisite flavour, must all be ex-
perienced before any account of them can be implicitly

SEA TROUT. 55

believed. Sometimes they become a source of annoyance
to the nervous and excited fisherman, who having prepare^
a seductive fly, is about to fish a favourite pool, and sees,
at his very first throw, five or six of these rush at it
furiously — in which case there is no alternative but to
change the fly and kill them all off— then you may fish in
peace for your salmon, but not till then. I confess, that
I have never found this to be any very great punishment.
I am fond of all sorts of fishing, and never could consider
it to be any great misfortune to have to hook and play
eight or ten beautiful fish, vying with molten silver in
their brightness, and varying in size from one pound to seven
pounds in weight, to say nothing of their flavour when
broiled for breakfast, all the time having the conviction
on my mind, that, as soon as I had done so, I should
in all probability kill two or three noble salmon in the
same pool.

The best time for fishing for these beautiful fish is when
the tide is flowing, and the best place is at that part of the
stream where the salt water unites with the fresh; they
come up with the tide into the stream, and continue to
roam and play about it in immense sculls, until the ebb
comes on, when they return into the salt water ; in the
meantime, however, they take with much avidity, and
afford most excellent sport if they are fished for with light
tackle. They are frequently accompanied in their ascent

E 4

56 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

of the rivers by the more weighty and more cautious salmon,
who is also often tempted in such circumstances to take
the fly.

I remember one morning, in July 1849, the yacht Iro-
quois was lying in the Eiver Moisic, when, about six o'clock,
my friend the Major, came down from the deck, where he
had been performing his ablutions, and calling me a lazy
dog because I was still lying in bed deeply engaged with a
book, asked me to accompany him on shore, as the tide
was making, and assist him in getting some fish for break-
fast. We started instanter, the Captain telling us that we
had no time to lose as breakfast was nearly ready. In less
than an hour we returned, and then we turned out our
spoil upon the deck : the Baron and the Captain admired
them so much that they insisted on weighing them before
one was committed to the gridiron, and their united weight
was found to exceed eighty pounds. Of their exquisite
flavour, fresh as they were, and immediately after the
wholesome exercise in the invigorating air of the sea and
of the mountains, it is only prudent to be silent.

Frank Forester, in his elaborate work on the fish and
fishing of America, quotes from Mr. Perley the following
remarks on this fish : —

" It is to be understood that the whole Grulf of St. Law-
rence abounds with white trout, from one to seven pounds
in weight. They proceed up the rivers as far as the head of

SEA-TKOUT FISHING. 57

the tide in each, but they never ascend into the purely
fresh water. In the salt water they are caught only with
the e Prince Edward's Island Fly,' so called, the body of
which is of scarlet with gold tinsel, or of gold tinsel only,
with four wings from the feathers of the scarlet ibis — the
Curry^Curry of South America.

"In the estuaries of rivers, where the water is only
brackish, they take the Irish lake-fly with gay colours ; the
scarlet ibis seems, however, the most attractive in all cases.

" In the fresh water the trout are quite different ; they
are much longer, very brilliantly coloured, with tricoloured
fins of black, white, and scarlet, with numerous bright spots
over the body. When the fish are in good condition these
spots are nearly as large as a silver penny. They rarely
exceed three pounds in weight, but are a very sporting fish ;
they take most of the Irish flies, but the red hackle in all
its varieties is their favourite. A brilliant hackle, over a
yellow or fiery brown body, kills everywhere all the season
through.

"The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbours of
Prince Edward's Island, especially in June, when the first
fish rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent; they
average from three to five pounds each. *****

" In the bays and along the coasts of the island they are
taken with the scarlet fly, from a boat under easy sail,
with a ( mackerel breeze,' and oftentimes a heavy 6 ground

58 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

swell.' The fly skips from wave to wave at the end of
thirty yards of line, and there should be at least seventy
yards more on the reel. It is splendid sport ! as a strong
fish will make sometimes a strong and a long run, and give
a good chase down the wind."

CHAPTER IV.

HOW AEE WE TO GET TO THE RIVEKS IN CANADA?

" Travellers all, of every station,
Drawing long bows ; of every nation
Nothing but exaggeration

Of the climes where they have been."

61

CHAP. IV.

HOW ARE WE TO GET TO THE EIVERS IN CANADA?

UESTIONS on paper al-
ways presuppose the ex-
istence of an enquirer;
but in the present in-
stance it is not only ne-
cessary to suppose that
there is a person anxious
to ascertain how he is to
reach the Canadian rivers,
but that that individual
is in some particular
locality from whence he must set out ; and as we cannot do
better than place him in the centre of civilisation, we
shall consider him as making the inquiry from a friend
while sitting after a whitebait dinner at Greenwich.
Assuming the part of that friend, who of course knows
what he is going to talk about, and is besides judicious and
truthful, we shall offer a reply in very few words. On a
Friday morning, somewhere about the first of May, pack up

62 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

your traps, start for Liverpool so as to be there early on
Saturday; then embark in one of the Canadian line of
steamers, and if you are not in very bad luck you will be
landed safely at Quebec in nine or ten days; from thence
you will set sail in your yacht or schooner, and then
commences the romance and excitement of your expedition.

But we must not go too fast. According to the above
given directions you would arrive in Quebec about the
middle of May, and though there is much in that strange
old city and its environs which is worth seeing, and some
trout fishing not far off, and that provisioning your ship,
and arranging your luggage will occupy more time than
you might reasonably calculate upon, yet I cannot but
think that the time would hang heavily upon your hands
from that time till the 7th or 10th of June, and I would
by no means recommend you to sail from Quebec before
that period.

It is not easy to state exactly the time when the salmon
fishing commences in the Canadian rivers, for that depends
in a great degree upon the warmth of the summer, the
melting of the snows, and the subsiding of the immense
floods caused by the breaking up of the ice in the lakes in
the interior, which of course depends in a great degree
upon the weather. It may however be safely asserted,
that in seven seasons out of ten the height of the season
will be found in the last week in June or in the first week
of July. Excellent sport however is frequently to be had

MONTREAL — STATISTICS. 63

before this, and there can be no doubt but that the
fisherman who will encamp by the river side early in the
season and patiently wait while the swollen and turbid
stream gradually settles into its summer channel, daily
trying the pools until he meets the first run of the salmon,
will meet his reward in killing the largest fish, and most of
them.

I would therefore advise you, if you have time to spare,
to visit the chief of Canadian cities, Montreal — the popu-
lation of which, according to the last census, is 57,715.*

* Of Canadians of French origin there are . . 26,020

Of Canadians of other origins .... 12,494

Of Irish origin ....... 11,736

Scotch „ 3,150

English „ 2,858

American (U.S.) 919

The numbers of other origins are insignificant.

In religion the Church of Rome enumerates . . 41,464

The Presbyterians 2,832

The Church of England 3,993

Methodists 1,213

Baptists • 272

Jews 181

Other denominations 7,760

Of sexes there are —

Males 27,734

Females 29,981

There are married 18,514

Not married 36,072

Widowers 860

Widows 2,269

This census, however, is well known to be exceedingly incorrect, the
enumerator having classed all those who called themselves Episcopalians as

64 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Society in this city is divided into as many cliques as
there are differences of origin, each, keeping almost ex-
clusively to itself, mingling little with each other, with the
exception of some native Canadians of British origin, who
mix with all who will admit them to their houses, seldom
or never opening their own to receive any one, and having
few or no sympathies with any of them.

The wharves of Montreal may well be objects of envy to
some of the first cities in the world ; they extend along the
magnificent St. Lawrence the whole length of the city, are
built of beautiful cut-stone, with fine broad slopes enabling
vehicles of all kinds to drive to the very gangways of the
ships and steamers which in summer assemble in great
numbers in their basins. The city itself is clean and
handsome and solid in appearance; some of the public
buildings, such as the Market House, the French Cathedral,
the Montreal Bank, and the exterior of St. Andrew's
Church, being very handsome and striking. The French
Cathedral is said to be capable of accommodating a larger
number of persons than any other building on the continent
of America ; and certainly to see the crowd of worshippers
pouring forth from it at the conclusion of their prayers,
and filling to repletion all the streets which converge upon
it, is well calculated to give an idea of infinite numbers.
The lamented Elliot Warburton writing of Montreal says

Koman Catholics, thus depriving the Church of England of nearly half her
members, and having made other mistakes.

MONTREAL — QUEBEC. 65

it is well lighted and kept very clean, full of bustle, life,
and activity — handsome equipages, gay dresses, and mili-
tary uniforms. Many rows of good houses are springing
up in the suburbs, and there is a look of solidity about
everything, pleasing to the English eye." A Yankee
having been asked his opinion of it, after having driven
through the principal streets, said, " Well, I guess it looks
like a city that was bought and paid for."

The island of Montreal, on which the city stands, is about
thirty miles in length and from ten to fifteen miles in
breadth, the Ottawa river pouring its rich tides, freighted
with rafts of timber from the far interior on their way to
Quebec, there to be embarked for Europe along its northern
shores, and the bright St. Lawrence urging his pure and
sparkling waters along its southern banks. The whole of
this fertile island belongs to the seminary of the St.
Sulpicians, having been secured by the treaty of capitu-
lation.

, At six o'clock in the afternoon the steamboats leave
Montreal for Quebec.

It would not be right to pass the latter quaint and
ancient city without a few words. Its situation is exquisite,
the views from it are romantic and magnificent in every
direction ; that in which the fisherman's eyes will be most
frequently attracted, down the river, is grand and beautiful.
The views of Quebec as you approach it from any side
except the north, are almost unique, and very striking to a

F

66 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

European eye, the roofs being covered with tin, which
shines and glitters in the sunbeams like silver, and reflects
their rays with intense brightness, causing it to appear as
if illuminated by some galvanic process to greet your
arrival. There are many things in this city and neigh-
bourhood which are worth seeing and remembering, and
there are excellent guide books, which give directions for
approaching them, and furnish many interesting memorials
connected with them, which can be purchased for a shilling
or two in the booksellers' shops, and from which, if I was
inclined to swell these pages, I might borrow details which
I have no doubt would be read with pleasure and instruc-
tion. But as my business is with the man who wants to
receive instructions as to the best mode of getting fish
in the best rivers, I shall pass on from the scenery,
politics, religion, and society of Quebec, to the matter in
hand.

I have already mentioned that from Quebec the fisher-
man must set sail in his yacht for the fishing ground.
But it is just possible that the gentleman may not have a
yacht of his own or his friend's to embark in. What then
is he to do? He must hire a schooner. And this he will
best be able to do with the assistance of some one of the
many respectable merchants or brokers of the city. There
are many schooners employed in the coasting trade and in
traffic with Newfoundland, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia,
Graspe and the Magdalen Islands, of from forty to a

PEELIMINAKY PREPAEATIONS. 67

Hundred tons' burden, which are perfectly seaworthy, well
manned, and easily cleaned, which may be hired at a cheap
rate. I have never as yet myself enjoyed an excursion in
one of them, having been always fortunate enough to accom-
pany some friend in his private yacht, but I have known
several parties, chiefly military men from Quebec and
Montreal, who have done so, and experienced as little dis-
comfort as could possibly be expected in a trip of the kind.

There are two advantages, which in my mind the hired
schooner has over the private yacht, — first that it is done
for less money, and secondly that by good management
you can have fresh supplies for your party ; and indeed I
may add a third, — that you need have no trouble or bother
or responsibility in laying in stores for the crew, for you
will hire your vessel at a fixed sum per diem — generally
five dollars, one pound sterling — which covers all expenses
of wages and provisions for the crew, the owner usually
acting as skipper, and as soon as you are comfortably
encamped on the side of the river of your choice, you can
despatch your vessel to Metis, Matan, or the Kiviere du
Loup for sheep, butter, eggs, potatoes, and other such-like
luxuries that you may stand in need of.

This arrangement, however, will not exonerate you from
the necessity of laying in a supply of provisions for your-
self, your friends, and your servants ; for in order to enjoy
your fishing fairly, servants you must have. This will appear
self-evident when you call to mind that constant fixes must

F 2

68 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

be kept up to dry wet clothes, to keep off musquitoes, and
fo r culinary purposes ; that trees must be cut down to feed
these fires; that cooking for three or four hungry men, two or
three times a day, making beds, cleaning knives, plates, &c.,
will occupy a good deal of time ; that if your party consists of
more than two, at least two cots or skiffs will be requisite ;
and that while you are fishing you will require at least one
man in each cot to paddle, pole, and gaff for you.

The best cot or skiff for this sort of work is that which
is used on the rapids of the Shannon at Castleconnel in
Ireland * ; it is light, draws very little water, steady, so that
the fisherman can stand up to fish from it, can be held in

* SALVESTYR.

CASTLECONNEL is a beautiful village on the southern shore of the Shannon,
about six miles eastward of Limerick. Before the Continent was open to
wealthy wanderers, it was a fashionable watering place, and annually
attracted large numbers of visitors in search of health, or fun, or fishing ;
but latterly it is almost deserted, except by the favoured few who are
admitted to the noble sport of sahnon fishing, which is to be found in the
preserved waters of a few proprietors, in as great perfection as in any other
place in the kingdom of Ireland ; and by still fewer who occasionally resort
to it, attracted by the beauty of the scenery and the calm of its retirement,
which cause it to be peculiarly suited for newly-married couples on their
wedding tour. Nevertheless, up to a late period, there were a number of
lazy, idle boatmen resident there, who gained a scanty and precarious
subsistence, by acting as guides to the different points of view, and by
inducing visitors to hire their frail cots for fishing purposes ; though, to say
truth, they were generally far more skilful in inventing stories and amusing
their victims than in luring the silvery salmon from his rocky lair.
Amongst them was a brawny, able-bodied, red-haired fellow, whose sobriquet
was " the Lamb," I suppose because he was the least innocent and the
most cunning of his confreres, — and who really possessed the talent of
telling a yarn in an amusing manner. One of his narratives suggests itself

A QUAKER AMATEUR FLY-FISHER. 69

rapid streams, can be managed in most of the Canadian
streams by one man ; and, what is a great advantage, two of

to my memory at this moment, which I shall give you as nearly as possible
in his own words.

" You've heerd of ould Grub, surr, ould Grub the Quaker from Clonmel.
— Well, about this time two years he came here with his young wife ; it
was on the weddin tour they wor. Well, I threwn meself in his way
the day after he came, and touched me hat to the ould negur, and
asked him in her hearin, wouldn't he like to give the young lady the air on
the wather ? but he passed on as stiff as bogwood, without even noticing
me. ' Well, never mind ould boy,' says I, 'I'll hook you yet ; ' and so
I kept my eye on him for a couple of days, till I seen they were tired of all
the walks from Hermitage to the World's End, and from the Rock Tower to
the holy well at Doonas, and beginnin, I think, to be tired too of the bacon
and eggs, with sometimes an ould chicken, which was all the dinner
Catty Murphy, the cretur, could give them ; when one fine evenin, as they
wor coming out of the door, looking up and down and uncertain which way
to go, I dropped across them and said, ' Wouldn't your honor like to come
out on the river and catch some trout for your honor's tay ? ' With that
the ould fellow looked up into the bright eyes of as beautiful a quaker girl
as ever I seen in this world, and says, ' Hannah, would' st thou like to go ? '
to which she answered by a smile like the sun on the wather : Oh but her
lips and her eyes sparkled, and her teeth were white as the snow, and her
lips as red as cherries. Well, Dinny Considine got the rod, and we got the
darlin cretur and the ould boy into the cot, and pushed out into the panthry,
and as the fry wor running we caught a few ; when Dinny gives me the
wink and says, ' It'll take two of us to hould the cot in the stream ; ' so I hands
the rod to the old boy, and he began throwin in and pullin out two or three
of the little creturs at a time, and warmed up to it like a red-haired girl at
a dance, till we had a basket full o' them ; and we carried them home for
him to Catty Murphy's, and he gev us half a crown, saying, ' I should like
to see thee again to-morrow.' Well, afther two or three evenins of this
work, he beginning to chat quite friendly, and Dinny telling him the devil's
own stories about salmon, he and the young wife tuk the car into Limerick,
and when he came back, sent for us and said he'd like to try for a salmon ;
and then he showed us some gavauls of flies he had bought at O'Shaugh-
nessy's. Well, we took him over the fall, and we all thrashed the water
night after night, he givin us the half crown always, tell we seen that he
was getting sick of it, when Dinny says to him, ' Them flies is no use at all,

¥ 3

70 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

them can be made so as to fit, one inside the other, so
as to be conveniently carried on the deck of a schooner.

God bless your honour, give it up for this evening, and I'll tie you a couple
to-night, and we'll go out early in the morning to the pool under Erina, and
we'll, may be, hook Salvestyr.' ' Salvestyr ? ' says he ; ' yes,' says I.
* What's Salvestyr ? ' says he. ' Salvestyr,' says I, ' is a great salmon ;
some say he's twenty, some thirty, some forty pounds, that lies in the hole
where your honour killed the trout on Tuesday; and he's always rising and
sometimes takes, but no one was able to kill him, — yet he snapped the rod
out of Ned Bryan's hand last Sunday night, and broke it between the stones,
so that Ned never got as much of it as would make a toothpick for a lamper
eel, and that lives by suction like the snipes.' Well,' says he to me, ' if
thou wilt tie the flies, I will go with thee in the morning : at what hour wilt
thou be ready ? ' ' Oh, be dad,' says I, ' in the grey dawn just before the
sun rises, and that'll be about half past three ; I'll be under your honour's
windy/ And there I was shure enough, and when I seen no stir upon the
ould hop pole, I threwn a handful of gravel against the glass of his windy,
and out of bed he jumps, making the whole house shake, and giving me a
nod thro' the windy, he hurries on his brown shuit and broad beaver, and
down he comes, looking sorry, I thought, for being such an ould fool as to
come out into the damp mist and leave such a darlin behind him in the
warm sheets. Well, Dinny Considine and myself brought him to the ould spot,
and I gev him an ould Lochaber, that I had killed a dozen peal with, and we
tould him the only way to fish the pool was to drag it ; so we made him let
out about twenty yards o' line, and sit with his face to the stern, — and God
knows I was glad o'that, for I couldn't look at him without laughin, and his
back was to me, and I makin faces at Dinny. By and by we seen he was
getting tired and fidgety ; and Dinny, with a turn o' the paddle, put the fly
in a stone, and snapt it off as clean as a whistle. ' Your honour hooked
him,' says I. ' Verily,' says he, ' I felt a strong pull, and thou must have
heard the noise of the reel.' ' I did,' says I, ' I knew you were in him ;
but we'd betther look at the fly.' With that he wound up, and there shure
enough was the hook bruk in two. ' Oh the thief of the world ! ' says
Dinny, ' it was Salvestyr was at it, and he'll rise again ; but give him a
bigger fly, he thinks nothing of a dozen of them little ones.' With that I
takes out of me hat a great spring fly on thribble gut, and I says, ' If he
sucks in that, it'll hould him, or the divil won't hould him ; ' and I spit on it
for luck, and threw it into the wather, and at it we went again, dragging the
hole over and hether, until we were getting towards the tail of it where the

COT FOR THE CANADIAN EIVEES. 71

Mr. James Ferguson, of Diamond Harbour, Quebec, for
whom I got a model of the Irish cot, has made some in
this manner, which have been found to answer admirably.
Each of these cots should be furnished with four sculls, a

big log of bog yew is lying on the bottom, when I tips Dinny the wink, and
we let the cot drop sudden a bit down with the stream, and then gave her
a smart pull up again, when the hook stuck as fast in the log as the rock of
Cashel. The Quaker's reel called out ' murder,' and we, letting the cot
run down with the stream, the ould Ommadhawn thought Salvestyr was
running up it. Dinny cries out, ' Butt him your honor ! ' I was near
falling into the wather with the laughin, but I threw down the oar and tuk
up the pole, and stopped the cot, and cried out, ' Now your soul wind on
him.' With that the old Quaker began winding on his reel as if he was
grinding coffee for the bare life, and we quietly poled the cot up towards
the log until we got fair over it. ' Now,' says I, ' feel him, surr, see if you
can left him ; ' with that he bent the rod till I thought either it or his back
would break. 'Ah, the ould divil,' says Dinny, 'he's gone to the
bottom to sulk ; but be ready for him, surr, he'll take another race, and then
may be we'll put the gaff in him.' With that Dinny takes his pole off the
ground, and down goes the cot like winkin ; the Quaker thinking it was the
fish was going up, and sweating, saving your presence, till he looked like
ould Neptune in Lord Clare's fountain. Down we went till all the line was
nearly off his reel, when I stopped her again, and again the Quaker took to
winding up, and we got over the log, and Dinny cries out, ' I see him !
Ages ! what a fish he is, he's as big as a horse, — give me the gaff.'
With that he made believe to make a blow of the gaff at him. ' Put me a
little to the right,' says he, and I give the cot a short turn round, and down
went the Quaker on his face and hands, but held on to the rod as if it was
his pocket-book ; but the cot was running down the stream, and just as he
got on his legs again all his line was run off the reel, and Salvestyr carried
line, gut, and fly clean and clear away.

" Oh, ye'r Honor, if you'd seen how blank he looked, as if I was going to
scold him ; but he ped for the line and fly like an ould gentleman, which
you know he was not ; besides half a crown a day a piece for every day we
tuk him out ; and Dinny and myself had a good laugh when we went in
the evening to take the fly out of Salvestyr, and gather up the line from the
bottom."

F 4

72 SALMON FISHING US" CANADA.

paddle, and two stout poles about fifteen feet long; but Mr.
Ferguson will not allow any of them to leave his establish-
ment imperfectly provided.

PLAN OF A COT FOR THE CANADIAN RIVERS.

The bottom to be 16 ft. long ; to be raised 3ft. 6 in. at end, 1 ft. 7 in. in front, and 1 ft. Sin.
in the other end, 2 ft. 9 in. in the centre of the bottom, and 3 ft. 10 in.in the beam.

The stores and provisions which should be taken on an
expedition of this nature are of various useful kinds, and
may be furnished of the best description, and carefully
packed, by Messrs. Shaw and Torrance of Quebec.

A question of very considerable importance in connection
with this stage of the proceedings is the one of Tents, for at
every river but one, the Eschemin or 1'Essumain, where I
have seen good fishing, it is expedient that the ship should
be deserted for a while, and an encampment formed at the
fishing ground. Indeed it is not only expedient in many
of them, but absolutely necessary, for the distance of the
pools from the anchorage differs in the different rivers from
six miles to forty.

As in every other requisite for salmon fishing, two qualities
are peculiarly desirable in your tents ; first, that they shall
answer every purpose of shelter from the sun and from the
rain ; and secondly, that they shall be light and portable.

SUITABLE TENT.

73

For though at most of the rivers, when you have arrived at
your anchorage, you will be enabled to launch your cots
and convey yourself and household goods to the desired
point for fishing, yet in others, and good ones too, such as
the Groodbout and Moisic, there are rough paths to be
trod, and perpendicular hills to be scaled, over which
everything must be conveyed on the shoulders of men :
and in others, again, there are portages, over which even
your cots must be carried, and then, from the ship to them,
every article which is necessary to render your camp com-
fortable and your success complete.

The description of tent which I have found to answer all
purposes of shelter and portability, is made of American
twilled cotton'; its shape will be better understood by the
accompanying sketch than by whole pages of description.

It is supported on three poles, which may be cut any-
where in Canada, fixed in the ground thus. (See next page.)
It should be eight feet long, and seven feet high, and

74 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

will thus be about six feet in breadth, leaving quite suffi-
cient space for a comfortable bed on one side, and for a
lounging seat and all your traps upon the other.

Both ends ought to be made so as to open and shut, in
order to obtain ventilation in sultry weather, and that
either or both may be closed, as circumstances may render
it desirable. Where the sides of the tent meet the ground
they ought to branch off into two flanges, one to turn in
and form the flooring, and the other, not so broad, to
turn outwards and admit of being secured with gravel,
stones or earth as may be convenient ; of course, they
should be furnished with the usual pegs and loops. These
tents are each calculated for one individual, and each
man of the party will find it for his comfort to have one ; for
although two persons could sleep comfortably in one of
them, still it is very often agreeable to have a room of
one's own, to which, when he feels sulky, he can retire and

BED AND BEDDING. 75

read or write, or mend flies or sleep, as may be best for
ill-temper.

In addition to these small tents for each individual of
the party, we have generally taken a bell tent or marquee
for a mess room and place of general assemblage, and a
tent for servants to sleep in. A shantee, made of logs
with bark for a roof, I consider better than a tent for
culinary purposes, as it is not so liable to be injured by
fire.

A piece of tarpaulin spread over the floor of the tent is
extremely useful to keep out damp, and to exclude sand-
flies.

Your bed should be simply two breadths of strong
Russia duck stitched well together, with an open hem at
each side so as to admit of a stout pole being passed
through each of them. Six feet long and two feet and a
half broad, will be sufficient for the generality of men in
these degenerate days. Of course in your travels to reach
the river's side you have to carry only the Russia duck,
which may be folded up to occupy little more space than
a pocket handkerchief; when you reach your camping

place, you cut your poles from the nearest tree, select two
logs from the firewood, cut two notches in each of them

76 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

to receive your poles, and stretching your Kussia duck
upon the latter, roll your blanket about you, and go to
sleep.

An article called a California blanket, which is a blanket
with one side covered with gutta percha, and consequently
waterproof, will be found extremely useful on occasions
of encamping in the Canadian Wilds.

Cold, heat, and wet are three things which in their ex-
tremes are very uncomfortable during an expedition to
the rivers. In order to guard against the former every
man should carry with him an abundance of flannel
garments of every description ; shirts, trowsers, drawers, &c.,
and should have a fur coat or cloak to throw upon his bed
at night. But generally speaking an enormous fire of
fresh wood, which burns beautifully, is always kept up in
the centre of the camp, as well for the purpose of drying
the clothes which are wet from being used in wading, as
for warmth and culinary purposes. For cleanliness' sake,
however, it is better that the cooking should be confined
to a more limited apartment, and removed a little from the
sleeping and sitting tents. For preservation from heat,
cold, and wet in my tent, I have found a very simple con-
trivance to be very effectual ; and that is to make a double
bank tent of it, by erecting two additional uprights and a
cross pole as before, about four or five inches longer than
the former ones, immediately outside and over the tent ;
and then drawing over the cross-pole, and securing at each

WATERPROOF COVERING.

77

side on the ground a large cloth of oiled calico, such as
the dry-goods merchants receive their parcels from Eng-
land packed in. This is easily obtained, is very light and
portable, and useful for many other purposes.

Having now answered the question at the head of this
chapter, I trust satisfactorily, it is time that we pass on to
the inquiry as to what rivers in Canada are worth fishing.

CHAPTER V.

WHICH AEE THE SALMON EIVEES IN CANADA?

" Let them that list, these pastimes still pursue,
And on such feeding fancies feed their fill,
So I the fields and forests green may view,
And daily by fresh rivers walk at will."

J. DAVOES.

" There 's a river in Macedon, and there is also, moreover, a river in
Monmouth ; it is called Wye at Monmouth, but it is out of my prains what
is the name of the other river ; but 'tis all one, 'tis so like as my fingers is
to my fingers, and there is salmons in both."

King Henry V. Act iv. Sc. 7.

81

CHAP. V.

WHICH ARE THE SALMON RIVERS IN CANADA?

F all the questions which
could be asked with re-
gard to salmon-fishing in
Canada, none can be of
greater interest to the

man holding salmocidal
opinions and intentions
than the one which is the
title of this chapter.

The first observation
I shall make with regard to it is, that it is much more
easily asked than answered. The reason for which is
very plain and intelligible ; out of about thirty-five mag-
nificent streams which flow into the Gulf of St. Lawrence
from its northern shore, in all of which salmon are known
to abound, only nine or ten of them have ever had a fly
thrown upon their unexplored waters, and so it would
not be easy to declare what facilities 'they afford to the
fisherman.

G

82 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Think of this, ye anglers, who have been all your lives
pacing the margin of some over-fished river in England ! —
think of this, ye persevering labourers on the well-beaten
waters of the Tweed, the Tay, the Esk, the Don, the Spey,
the Ness and the Beuly ! — think of this, ye tired thrashers
of the well-netted streams of Erne, Moy, and Shannon ! —
think that within less than a fortnight's steaming from
your hall doors, there are as yet twenty-five virgin rivers
in one small portion of Canada, and that of the ten which
have been tried, they have all, with one single exception,
been found not only to abound in salmon, but to afford
ample facilities for taking that noble fish with the rod and
the fly.

I do not mean to say that none of them present diffi-
culties to the fisherman, they would not be pleasant rivers
to fish if they did not. They have their sharp rapids,
their heavy falls, their impassable barriers, their sunken
rocks : in many of them it will be impossible, until civi-
lisation smooths the paths, to approach near enough to the
very best casts to fish them ; in others, the rough nature
of the volcanic rocks which hang over their pools, and the
impracticable state of the forests on their borders, throw
obstacles in the way of conveying cots or canoes to the
best stands, which are all but insurmountable. In many
of them a bright gravelly bottomed pool, with a lively
stream rippling through its centre, in which the fish per-
petually disport themselves, is terminated by a rocky and

A XOYEL LEAP.

83

a narrow gorge, through which the water rushes roaring,
raving, and lashing for miles, into which every salmon you
hook will use all his energies to throw himself, and if he
succeeds, you may depend upon, it he will not stop till he
reaches the bank of Newfoundland. In many of them
the pine, the beech, the alder, and the tamarack grow down
to the edge of the water on both sides, impeding every
throw,— nay they do worse, they die and fall across the
stream, making, it is true, in some pools a very pretty

ripple, to disguise the fly, but enabling the fish to execute
the beautiful but embarrassing manoeuvre of jumping, as

G 2

84 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

soon as he is hooked, into the top branches of the nearest
tree, — an event which has more than once occurred to the
writer of these pages. Should the accompanying sketch
ever meet the eye of an old and kind friend in a " cottage "
at Toronto, it will remind him of an hour in one summer's
evening, in which such an occurrence took place, and
during which he and I killed five salmon, the smallest of
which weighed fifteen pounds. In many of them, walls of
rock of an immense height rise perpendicularly from the
narrow strip of gravel from whence you have to throw
your line, and afford the most convenient means which
can be well conceived of knocking the very best tempered
hooks into smash.

Well do I remember my first visit to the Chute-en-
haut, or upper fall of the Eschemin, or L'Essumain, as it is
indifferently called in the maps. It was in the year 1845
that my friend and I ran our boat up to within a few
hundred yards of the lower pools, which I believe had not
been fished since Greneral Sir John Macdonald had killed
some four hundred salmon there in one week, some few
years before. The salmon were in plenty, the sea trout were
in myriads. We killed both, and ate both, till our piscatory
and epicurean propensities were satisfied; during which
process we became acquainted with the only man who
resided within thirty miles of the place, a half Frenchman,
half Indian, who set some rude stake nets in the estuary,
and spoke a most unintelligible language, composed of

MY FRIGHTFUL FRIEND. 85

French and Sioux Indian, for the earlier part of his life
had been spent in the far west beyond the Eed Eiver.
This very worthy man set all the ardour and romance of
my disposition boiling and bubbling by the stories he
narrated of all the salmon he had seen in the pool beneath
the Chute-en-haut. I expressed my desire to go there.
He shook his head, and said it was dangerous work, and
impossible to effect without a canoe. I insisted that I
would go, and that he should repair an old canoe he had,
and come with me. He declared his inability to do either,
but said that his son, one of a tribe of wandering Indians,
would be with him next day, and showing me a solitary
spot where I should meet him, promised that he should
bring his canoe and convey me safely to the much desired
waters. It was early morning in the month of July, the
rain drops were glittering on the countless leaves of the
trees, as the rising sun shed his glories upon them ; I was
silently forcing my way through the water-laden branches
which overhung the path to the rendezvous, where I ex-
pected to meet the old voyageur's son with his canoe, when
I was startled, nay almost horrified, by the sudden and
rapid approach of some gigantic and unknown animal,
rushing towards me through the trees with a frightful
noise. I stopped, I stood, my blood ran cold ; I tightly
grasped my gaff; I endeavoured by staring to ascertain
what brute it might be and how I could defend myself: as it
quickly approached me, I stepped back from the unbeaten

G 3

86

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

path into the wood behind me, when the apparition, which
was nothing more than an Indian (and a hoy) with his
canoe carried in the usual manner upon his head and

shoulders, passed me by, and in a soft and rather melo-
dious voice uttered the word " allons."

My unnecessary terrors were soon dissipated, though I
must confess that there was a nervous tremulousness about
me for at least an hour afterwards. Following my frightful
friend at once, however, we quickly arrived at the end of
the portage, where we launched our light barque on the
rippling waters, and proceeded on our way up the river.
Our progress was but slow, as in many places the stream
was shallow, and the canoe had to be lightened by the

A PERFECT SALMON POOL. 87

absence of the weight of the Indian, and dragged by hand
through the water ; in others the water ran so rapidly that
it was with difficulty we made any way against the current ;
but in others we came upon tranquil pools, in which as we
glided past we could see the lordly salmon shoot like a
sunbeam, from one side to another, disturbed by such
unusual visitors. In some of them I wanted to delay and
try my skill in captivating some of the inmates, but my
frightful friend would not hear of it : I therefore quietly
resigned myself to my fate, and at length we reached the
Chute-en-haut ; and never did Nature and Nature's child
present to the enjoying eyes of a fisherman a more beau-
tiful and enticing picture of a perfect salmon pool.

I shall not attempt to describe the fall of the bright
waters over a bed of shelving rocks, which just pent them
up sufficiently at the head of the basin to give their
progress through the whole of its depths a visible impetus.
I shall not vainly essay to make present to the mind's eye
of my reader the deep, clear, sandy bottomed cove, which
was worn into the rocks on the right-hand side of the
river, nor the dancing stream which leaped and kissed the
overhanging alders on the left, nor the island of glittering
gravel which about a hundred yards down from the fall,
divided the river into two streams and thus enabled the
angler to fish every portion of it perfectly.

Cautiously, lest he should disturb a fin, my frightful
friend paddled his canoe through the still water on the

G 4

88 SALMON FISHING IS CANADA.

right side of the river, motioned to me by signs — for we
could not exchange a word — Trinity College Dublin, not
having educated me in the Indian tongues, that I should
disembark and proceed to fish, which I was previously
burning to do. Soon, was the single splice in my eighteen
feet of Irish ash, with one foot of hickory and two inches
of tortoise shell at the top, tied together with a strong and
well waxed thread of hemp. Quickly was my gold-tinselled
fiery brown, with claret hackle and mixed wings, attached
to my single gut casting-line ; for very rarely have I used
any other : rapidly did I make my first three throws in
the very jaws of the gorge, and just as rapidly, on the third
throw, did an animated mass of molten silver, as it ap-
peared, rush along the surface of the water, engulph my
fiery brown in his wide-spread jaws, and turn to descend
into the depths beneath him, when he received, from some
involuntary and indescribable turn of my wrist, which is
called the " strike," such a twinge in the lower part of his
tongue, as made him believe that he was held fast by some-
thing amazingly hot, which it was his duty to extinguish
and resist by every means that was afforded to him by
water, tail, and fins. His rushes to and fro, his dives deep
and long, his leaps many and rapidly repeated; the
adroitness with which the Indian received me into his frail
and unsteady canoe at the very moment when the last
foot of line was rolling off my reel ; the steadiness and
quietude with which he brought me over my fish; the

A "STKIKE" AND CATCH. 89

celerity with which he followed him in all his manoeuvres ;
the skill with which he enabled me, coaxingly, to draw him
into the still water at the head of the pool ; and the deadly
certainty with which, on the first opportunity, he fixed
the cruel gaff in his side ; all this I spare the reader, con-
tenting myself with stating that at the end of about twenty-
five minutes, the " water angel," as a Yankee writer calls
the salmon, was tested as to weight, and found to be rather
more than twelve pounds.

Again I prepare my fiery brown for a throw, having
found him unruffled and uninjured by the late encounter.
Two, three, four, five times I flung him forth so as to
descend as lightest gossamer upon the sparkling waters,
at each throw drawing about a foot of line off my reel.
About the sixth throw there was a lash and a flash as my
fly floated from the stream into the still water, and I felt
an evident strain upon rod and line ; but too soon it was
clear that though a fish had risen at it, and touched it, he
had escaped the bait. As it becomes all prudent fisher-
men to do in such circumstances, I then examined my fly,
and found that the hook was broken off exactly in the
middle of the bend. To search my fly-box and find
another similar fiery brown, did not take me half the
time which it took me mentally to objurgate Martin
Kelly, whose hook I believed had broken against some
bony part in the fish's mouth.

Again I cautiously and deftly proceeded to throw my

90 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

line downwards and across the stream, gradually elongating
it, until the fly passed over the same spot in which the
salmon had risen. No sooner had it reached this spot than
it received a pull which suddenly bent the top of my rod
to the very surface of the water, and before I could get a
fair strain on it my wheel was singing loudly, and my line
running out at a fearful rate. By the time I could raise
my hand and give a perpendicular direction to my rod, the
fish appeared to have reached the far end of the pool : just
then I was enabled to get a good pull upon him, when my line
became lax and flaccid, leaving me, dejected and disgusted,
with nothing else to do but to wind it up. Again I ex-
amined my fly, again I found the hook broken off at the
middle of the bend, again I thought unkindly of Martin
Kelly, again I extracted from my box another fiery brown
and proceeded to attach it to my casting line, when I
found myself gasping for breath and nearly blinded with
smoke. On turning round I perceived one fire of dead
leaves, and withered branches, and wet drift wood, and
damp grass, giving out volumes of smoke, on my right
hand, another on my left, and my amiable Indian busily
employed in kindling a third immediately and closely
behind me. The day was bright, the sun was intensely
hot, and the rock on which we stood was exposed to all
his rays ; so that what could be his object in increasing the
already ardent heat was a mystery to me, until having
interrogated to him as well as I could by pantomime, he

BLACK FLIES. 91

pointed to the myriads of black flies which were crawling
upon the rock at my feet, and which he assured me by
his signs would long before have fixed their fangs and left
their poison in my forehead and my throat and behind my
ears, were it not for the smoke proceeding from the fires
which he had lighted.

Soon after, however, I began to feel a certain degree
of uneasiness about the calves of my legs, and a consider-
able inclination to scratch them to any extent. The fact
is, that I wore strong Wellington boots, in the usual
manner, under my pantaloons ; that the black flies, com-
pelled to keep their humiliating position on the ground,
sought to wreak their revenge and to satiate their brutal
taste for blood by creeping up my trowsers and biting me
accurately round the top of the boot, so that by the time
I reached our boat that evening I presented the appearance
of having been beautifully fired in both legs for bone-
spavin. This taught me a lesson which I have not for-
gotten, and by which I recommend all the readers of this
little book to profit, namely, when in fishing the Canadian
waters I wear boots — and no man ought to wear anything
else — to draw them over my pantaloons.

Again I sent forth my fiery brown to kiss the bright
surface of the Chute-en-haut, again I gradually lengthened
my line, again I felt the sullen pull of a heavy fish as he
grasped my feathered bait, and again it returned to me
mutilated and broken. Again I substituted another, with

92 SALMON. FISHING IN CANADA.

which I had not long continued to tempt the denizens of
the Chute, when in making a throw a few inches longer
than the previous ones, it became fastened in a small
patch of moss which grew in a fissure about half way up
the high wall of hard rock, which stood at my back, and
against which, blinded by the smoke and rendered thought-
less by my eagerness, I had smashed no less than eight
beautiful hooks in less than an hour, and so managed to
lose five or six splendid fish which had risen at and taken
the baitless and mutilated fly into their jaws.

Never since have I visited the Chute-en-haut, and rather
think I never shall, for since the time I write of, mills
have been erected on its placid waters, dams which
effectually and unnecessarily render it impossible for the
salmon to ascend the river, have been built ; and instead of
the solitary half-Indian half-voyageur and his wild but mild
and obliging son, there is now to be found at the Echemin
a population of nearly two hundred lumberers, wheel-
wrights, carpenters, and their families, with all the abomi-
nations of grog shops and grocery establishments.

But this is a great digression from the object of this
chapter, which is to point out to the gentle inquirer which
of the rivers in Canada are salmon rivers.

The only manner in which I can attempt to solve this
question is by giving a list of all the rivers which from the
best accounts I have been enabled to collect are salmon
rivers, with any observations which each may call for; to

BEST KNOWN KIVEKS. 93

«,
speak more particularly of those of which I have received

authentic intelligence from trustworthy friends, or which
have been written of by credible authors ; and to treat
more particularly still of those which I have myself visited,
and which I have myself fished.

With regard to the Jacques Cartier, the St. Charles, the
St. Joachim, the Petite Riviere, and the Riviere du Grouffre,
I shall not make any further observation than that I do
not believe that any one of them is worthy the attention
of a person who comes from a distance for the purpose of
fishing ; either from the circumstance of their being already
over fished, as they can be reached from Quebec by land,
or from their having been seriously injured by the in-
judicious manner in which milldams have been erected
across them.

The next in order, as we descend the river St. Law-
rence from the westward, is the Jumeaux at Malbaie,
a river which I have never had the good fortune to visit,
but which has been so well described by that accomplished
gentleman and skilful sportsman Dr. Henry, that I make
no apology for extracting the following from his "Port-
folio."

" Ninety miles below Quebec, and nearly opposite
Kamouraska on the south shore, the Malbaie river enters
the St. Lawrence. After an impetuous mountain course of
two hundred miles, it escapes through a gorge, tumbles
down a granite rock, and then winds very prettily along a

94 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

cultivated tract, six or seven miles, until it meets the tide.
There is a tolerable wooden bridge at its mouth, whose
large abutments loaded with great boulders, tell of the
formidable floods that sometimes sweep down the valley.
A respectable church, with its long roof and glittering
spire, and a tall elm or two, stands on an elevated point
near the junction of the river with the St. Lawrence.

" A very quiet and moral population of seven or eight
hundred people inhabit this secluded valley. We are
informed that after the conquest a number of soldiers of
Murray's regiment settled here, intermarrying with the
Canadians, and leaving traces of their larger stature and
peculiar lineaments which are still visible. Some of the
customs of the good Jiabitans, too — social family worship
night and morning, for instance — may be of Scotch origin :
for, however dissipated the life of a Scotch soldier may
have been, he is apt towards the close to show the salutary
effect of former religious instruction. The good seed,
whose early germination had been checked by the storms
of his profession, seldom loses all vitality, but often brings
forth fruit when the turbulence of a military life is past.
Be this as it may, the cross appears to have improved the
breed considerably : the language of the military settlers,
however, which may have been half Gaelic half English—
has yielded to that of the more numerous class, and the
whole community now speak French.

" Many of the Malbaie families are very large, and from

THE EIYEE MALBAIE. 95

fifteen to twenty children are not uncommon. They marry
early — get a stripe of a concession from the seigneur, and
a house is run up for the young couple, more Hibernico,
by their relations. They are then set adrift, but never
separate far from their own connexions. There is infinite
social comfort in this custom ; but the worst of it is that
the bit of land is soon exhausted.

" Their neighbours in the Bay of St. Paul, on the other
side of a long mountain, have a very indifferent character ;
but the peasantry of this remote and pretty glen are the
most virtuous people I have ever seen in any country. As
to temperance with regard to spirituous liquors, our good
philanthropists who are endeavouring to reform the world
in this way — would find their labours needless here.
Among these primitive people, drunkenness is absolutely
unknown ; and whole families pass their lives without any
individual ever having tasted intoxicating fluids. Some
surprising instances of this kind have come to the writer's
knowledge.

" Having been on four fishing expeditions to Malbaie, I
hope that a short account of one of these may not be
tiresome to the reader.

"In the latter end of June, 1830, my friend, Major
Wingfield, of the 66th, and myself, set out from Montreal
on a fishing trip to Malbaie. We embarked in buoyant
spirits, well provided with choice apparatus, and taking
with us materiel for preserving our fish — namely; salt,

96 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

sugar, spices, and a large cask of vinegar. A good-natured
American general, with his aide-de-camp, were our fellow
passengers in the steamboat to Quebec. They were
heretics of the utilitarian school, and thought it not a
little extraordinary that we should make so long a journey
to catch fish that might so easily be obtained in the
market.

" On reaching Quebec, we found, to our great mortifica-
tion, the wind blowing up the river, strong against us, and
no steamboat running whither we were bound. We were
therefore obliged to wait there three days, and then take
our passage in a miserable schooner from Kamouraska;
the captain engaging to land us at our destination on the
opposite shore. The voyage was extremely tedious and
disagreeable, lasting four interminable days and nights,
though the distance was only ninety miles. Moreover,
our lubberly skipper very nearly upset us half a dozen
times, by bad management during the gale from the
eastward that lasted almost the whole voyage. To add to
our misfortunes we were half starved as well as half
foundered ; for our sea stock was laid in under the anti-
cipation of a few hours' voyage, and consisted only of a
loaf, a quarter of cold lamb, and a bottle of wine. Thirty
or forty dirty habitans from Kamouraska were on board,
and occupied the limited space below ; we were therefore
obliged to wrap ourselves in our cloaks and bivouac under
the ' grande voile ' on deck. This was all very well as

PLEASURE AFTEE PAIN. 97

long as the weather continued dry, but on the third day
the rain came down in torrents — often extinguishing our
cigars ; but we took fresh ones, still maintained our ground
on deck, and puffed away bravely in hopes of better times.
Towards the end of our wretched voyage, sheer hunger
made us purchase some bad salt pork, and sausages crammed
with garlic, as our own barrels of provisions were hooped
up, and if we broke bulk there might be a sorry account of
them.

" At length, with beards like Jews — cold, wet, half
starved, and every way miserable, we reached the mouth of
the Malbaie river, where we had bespoke lodgings, at the
house of a Canadian named Chaperon.

"By a beneficent ordination, our sense of present
enjoyment is keen in proportion to the recollection of
recent discomfort or distress ; but I shall say nothing of
the converse of this, having little to do with that branch
of the subject at present. Dryden has condensed the idea
in five words —

' Sweet is pleasure after pain.'

Indeed the sensations of my friend and myself, when at
length we found ourselves clean and comfortable in M.
Chaperon's pleasant parlour, were much to be envied.
Sweet, very sweet, was our shave, and our bath, and the
feel of cool linen, and the sense of total renovation per-
vading our whole persons — but, shade of Apicius ! how

H ,

98 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

exquisite the Gunpowder and Pekoe tasted after rancid
pork and garlic !

" On our way from the shore we cast our hungry eyes on
a salmon, just come in with the tide and floundering in a
net : we incontinently licked our lips and purchased him.
When we reached the house our servant handed the fish
over to Madame Chaperon, with instructions to broil it for
our breakfast — not alive, but as near as might be. Our
toilet being finished we drew the table to the window,
into which a rosebush in full bloom was peering from a
flower-garden underneath. There, amidst the mixt aro-
mata of flowers and fish, we commenced an attack on
a pyramid of toast fit to form a new apex to that of
Cheops — numerous dainty prints of fresh butter, some
half gallon of thick cream, and half a bushel of new
laid eggs — which was kept up vigorously for a couple of
hours.

" On Monday morning, July the 5th, we engaged a caleche
with a good-looking Canadian boy named Louis Panet, to
attend us on our daily visits to the Chute, about six miles
distant. The road up the valley is very good, following
the winding course of the river, and overhung on the other
side by green globular hills, very steep in many places.
These are covered with a thin soil, which often after rain
peels off in large patches, carrying down trees, fences,
flocks, and even the houses, ' in hideous ruin and com-
bustion ' to the bottom. One of these frightful eboulements

HOOK MY FISH. 99

had fallen across our road lately, and the country people
were still busy in clearing away the rubbish.

(s From my former experience, the first glance at the
river assured me we should have good sport. Instantly
our fishing-rods were got ready, and taking Jean Grros with
us — a habitant who had accompanied me on former occa-
sions, we descended the steep bank, got into his crazy canoe,
and were ferried across to the best part of the stream.

(f There was a large granite boulder in the river, in the
wake of which I had formerly hooked many a fine fish. At
the very first throw here I rose a large salmon ; but although
he appeared greedy enough, he missed the fly. On these
occasions, particularly so in the early season, the best and
most experienced anglers will feel a slight palpitation
arising from a struggle of opposite emotions, hope of

success, doubt of failure, and uncertainty and curiosity as

•

to the size of the fish. Giving my finny friend time to
resume the position at the bottom he had quitted, and to
compose himself, I then threw the fly lightly over him,
communicating to it that slight motion which imitates
life. He instantly darted at the glittering deception, and
I found him fast on my line. After a few moments' won-
derment, he dashed madly across the river, spinning out
the line merrily and making the reel f discourse eloquent
music.' This fish did not stop in his career until nearly
touching the opposite bank, when he turned, made another
run for the middle, and then commenced a course of

H 2

100 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

leaping a yard or two out of the water. This is a dan-
gerous time, and here unskilful anglers most frequently
lose their fish : for each leap requires a corresponding
movement of the arms and body to preserve the proper
tension of the line. In fact, on these occasions a good
angler will make a low courtesy to his fish. I played this
active gentleman fully three quarters of an hour, when he
gave up the contest, and I gaffed and secured my prize, —
a beautiful male fish in fine season, weighing twenty-five
pounds.

"We continued at our sport till mid-day, when it
became too hot and clear. By this time my companion
had caught a number of large salmon trout, and I picked,
up two more salmon and several trout of the same descrip-
tion, marked with the most brilliant colours. We then
crossed to the shady side and reposed ourselves ; and having
discovered a copious spring bubbling through the gravel,
close to the water's edge, we enlarged it into a well, into
which we plumped our fish and a bottle of Hodson's Pale
Ale, covering it with green boughs. We then employed
ourselves in collecting strawberries for a dessert to our
sandwich ; and after lunch enjoyed our cigars, and chatted
over our morning exploits.

' Fronde sub arborea, ferventia temperans astra.'

" When the shade of the high bank stretched across the
river, we resumed our sport, and returned to a late dinner

THE PLAGUE OF FLIES. 101

with our caleche literally full of fish. A goodly show they
made, as they covered two of Madame Chaperon's largest
tables: the sum total being five salmon, weighing 105
pounds, and 48 trout, averaging three pounds a piece.

" Next morning, after an early breakfast, we started for
the Chute, taking a tent with us, which we pitched on a
knoll overlooking our fishing ground. It proved, how-
ever, more ornamental than useful; the banks being so
umbrageous that we did not require it by day, and we
always returned to our lodgings in the evening.

" Nothing mundane is without its alloy. Our enjoyments
were great, with one serious drawback — the flies, those
volant leeches that surrounded us — and notwithstanding
our defence of camphorated oil smeared over our hands,
faces, and necks — sucked our blood without compunction.*
A fly is considered a stupid creature notwithstanding his
powers of observation, but our Malbaie musquitoes were
insects of great sagacity, for they appeared to watch their
opportunity to take us at a disadvantage, and when they
saw us occupied in playing a fish, they made play too, and
had fifty spears in our skins in half a minute. The little
invisible sand flies, too, teased us extremely, and those
insidious black wretches, who give no warning, like the
honest musquito — these crawled about our necks and up
our sleeves, tracking their way with blood.

* See Supplementary Chapter.
H 3

102 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

" Another plague that annoyed us not a little, was the
dogs on the road from home to the scene of our sport ; which
were certainly the most ill-mannered brutes I ever had
the misfortune to be acquainted with. Twice a day had we
to run the gauntlet, and sustain a continued attack ; each
cur when he had barked himself hoarse, handing us over
to his neighbour. Horses in Canada are so accustomed to
this that they pay little attention to yelping, unless some
brute, more savage than the rest, attempts to seize them by
the nose, when they sometimes get frightened, and may
run away. Once or twice we observed our sagacious little
horse looking a little bothered at the assaults of one fierce
brnte, who must have had a cross of the bull-dog in him.
This was a black and shaggy cur of great size, whose wont
was to dart at once at the poor horse's mouth. We had
often flogged him severely, but he did not mind it in the
least, being protected by his thick woolly hair. One day
I put a long handle in my salmon gaff for his express use,
and when the savage darted at us, I watched my opportu-
nity and hooked him by the side. Louis whipped his
horse, who by his movements appeared to enjoy the punish-
ment of his enemy. Away we went at a rapid rate, the
dog yelling hideously, and the habitans running out of
their houses at the noise, and holding up their hands in
astonishment. After a little we stopped and I shook him
off, apparently not much the worse for the discipline he
had received. Next morning in going to our sport we saw

GOING WITH THE STEEAM. 103

him at the door of his own house : and certainly no
punishment could ever have a better effect. As soon as
the brute recognised us, he put his long tail between his
legs, limped into the house as mute as a fish, and never
annoyed us again.

" During our second day's fishing I had a little adventure
which was not unattended with danger, though such was
the excitement of the moment, that I was scarcely conscious
of it. Having observed a large salmon rising at a fly in
the middle of the river, I got into the canoe and made old
Jean Grros pole me out to the spot ; kneeling as we were
often obliged to do, for fear of upsetting the unmanageable
little craft. I soon hooked the fish, and making my Charon
stick his pole firmly into the bottom, we brought our tiny
vessel athwart it, kept our position against the force of
the current, which here ran very strong ; and having a fine
range of the open stream, I played the fish for half an hour
until he was quite subdued. M. Jean was then desired to
weigh anchor, and push for a shelving sandy bank where
we had been accustomed to gaff our salmon. In pulling
up the pole, which was shod with iron, the old man, by
some inexplicable awkwardness, lost his hold of it ; away
the rapid stream bore us, whilst the long pole was left
standing perpendicularly, vibrating still and shaking its
head at us very ominously.

" Jean Grros' shoulders elevated themselves to his ears in-
stantly, and his wizened and corrugated face was elongated

H 4

104 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

some three or four inches to the obliteration of manifold
wrinkles that adorned it. It was irresistibly comic, and I
could not help a loud laugh, though it was no joke. We
had no paddle nor anything else to assist us on board, and
were running at six knots an hour towards the jaws of a
dangerous rapid. My old voyageur, after his first astonish-
ment, uttered one or two indecent oaths, like a veritable
French colonist ; then, apparently resigning himself to
his fate, became paralysed w th fear and began to mumble
a prayer to some favourite Saint. In the meantime some
good-natured habitans, who had been watching us playing
the salmon, ran down the shore, parallel with us, when they
saw us drifting down ; flinging out to us every stick they
met for the chance of our catching and using it as a paddle.
All this time the salmon remained on the line, and my
large rod occupied one hand entirely, and prevented much
exertion in stretching for the floating timber ; but as for
abandoning rod or fish — neither was to be thought of for a
moment. Once I overstretched myself and canoe and all
were within an ace of being upset. At last success attended
us — I secured a piece of board, and the first employment
of it was the conferring a good sound thwack on Jean Gros'
shoulders, accompanied with 'Ramez! sacre, ramez!'
The effect was electrical — the old fellow seized the board
and began to paddle vigorously, steering, as we approached
an island, down the smaller branch, where the rapid could
be passed with safety. By great good luck our co-voyageur

LA RIVIERE NOIRE. 105

iD the water took the same channel, and down the stream
we all went merrily for half a mile. The rapid ended in a
deep and quiet hole where the fish was soon gaffed ; and
after a little rest, and a coup of brandy to the old man,
notwithstanding his delinquencies, he placed the canoe on
his shoulders, I carried the fish, and we returned by the
bank.

" The practicability of passing the smaller rapid being
thus established, Wingfield, two or three days after, having
hooked a large salmon, and not being able to prevent
it from going down, guided it in the canoe through
the same branch of the river; but, unfortunately, the
line, caught in a rock near the bottom and the fish broke
off.

" We spent a delightful fortnight at Malbaie, killing many
fine salmon, and a great number of magnificent trout ;
whilst we employed our servant, when we were fishing, in
pickling, smoking, or salting them. But the season became
dry, the river fell, and the fish ceased to rise in any con-
siderable numbers. Towards the end of July we struck
our tent, embarked in a large boat, and proceeded twenty
miles down the north shore of the St. Lawrence, with the
intention of exploring a small salmon stream, called ( La
Riviere Noire,' which it was said had never been fished.

" The north shore of the great Canadian estuary is an
iteresting field for thfe geologist ; and it has not yet been
explored. Indeed, a comprehensive and scientific

106 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

research through both these great provinces is yet to be
made, and would, I am persuaded, develop great natural
riches, as well as many objects of curious inquiry.

"At the falls of Montmorenci, a little below Quebec,
that river has cut through the junction of sienite with the
superincumbent limestone, and illustrated not a few of
the recondite secrets of the early history of rocks. At
Beauport, in the same neighbourhood, enormous quantities
of marine shells in a state of remarkable preservation — the
colours even yet perfect — are found embedded in blue
clay. Further down the north shore, the country becomes
more purely granitic and mountainous to the very edge of
the St. Lawrence ; the bold capes and headlands increasing
in boldness and altitude, until they are interrupted by the
singular and enormous fissure through which the Saguenay
runs. The waters of this great tributary, beneath a
perpendicular bank, from 600 to 900 feet high, and only a
yard from the shore, are one thousand feet deep, and in
some places no bottom has yet been found.

"It was a fine afternoon when we left Malbaie; the
river was calm, and the white porpoises, those unwieldy
looking creatures, were tumbling in all directions. We
had guns, and tried a few shots without effect, the balls
ricochetting off their smooth and oily skins, whenever they
struck them. As it approached sunset our Canadian boat-
men began a quartette, by no mean^Lnharmonious, though
the voices were rough enough, and kept it up with great

BIVOUAC FOR THE NIGHT. 107

spirit nearly all the rest of the voyage. At midnight we
arrived at the mouth of the river, where we found a fine
dry sandy beach, with a line of creamy surf rippling
gently against it, in a wild and uninhabited country. We
landed, found plenty of wood to kindle a large fire ; ate
our supper, which we shared with our voyageurs ; for
which they gave us another song under the exhilarating
influence of a coup or two of brandy. We then wrapped
ourselves in our cloaks, looked out for a soft stone for a
pillow, placed our guns by our sides, put our feet to the
fire, and soon fell asleep.

" The morning sun awoke us : we started up and took a
refreshing swim in the salt water, whilst our attendants
were getting breakfast ready. When the meal was over
we prepared our rods and set out to reconnoitre the stream,
the banks of which were covered with almost impenetrable
jungle; but after great exertions, we explored to the
distance of four or five miles, yet only got one small
salmon, which my friend caught, for our pains. The
river, as far as we could reach, was a continuous succes-
sion of rapids and falls from one enormous granite rock to
another.

" On our return we disturbed a huge bear, who was busily
employed in tearing up a large rotten pine to get at a
colony of ants that inhabited it. We stopped and so did

; feeling, no doubt, as displeased as any Christian, at

jing interrupted in his meal. He then walked away, and

108 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

as we had left our guns at the boat, we felt no inclination
to follow him.

et Next day we returned to Chaperon's, and the following
morning visited the Chute, and found that a fresh batch of
fine trout had made their way up the river, low as it was,
which afforded us capital sport; rising greedily at our
salmon-flies, and very lively and strong on the line — but
we could see no salmon until late in the evening, when
we noticed a very large one sucking in some small flies in
the middle of the stream. We embarked in the canoe,
and both covered him, endeavouring to tempt his palate by
various flies resembling those on the water ; using at the
same time a single gut casting line, but all in vain. At
last, just before starting for home, I tried one more cast
over him, when he rose like a young whale, and I found
him firm on the hook. The tackle was slender, no doubt,
but the delicate fibre that held him prisoner was of the
best description, and though of nearly invisible tenuity,
possessed great strength, which the flexibility of a long and
admirable rod materially assisted. Great was the

' certaminis gaudium '

during the exciting play of that noble fish, and many,
many apprehensions had we of the result. But the staunch
O'Shaughnessy kept its hold, and the tenacious gut failed
not. Finally, after a glorious struggle of an hour and a
quarter, this magnificent fish lay gasping on the sand. It

PEESENT STATE OF THE MALBAIE.

109

weighed twenty-eight French pounds, or about thirty-one
English.

" On the 3rd of August we returned to Quebec, with
two barrels of fish, for distribution among our friends;
and I guess, if our utilitarian Yankee acquaintances had
met us then, we should have been less the objects of their
derision."

Such is Dr. Henry's narrative of his tour to Malbaie. I
regret, however, to state that the accounts of more recent
visitors to that stream would not justify me in leading the
fisherman to expect that he would now find similar sport
there. But am happy to learn that the present proprietor of
the seignory has gone to considerable expense in levelling
the dams which have hitherto obstructed the passage of the
fish, and that there is every prospect, under his care and
protection, that this charming stream will again become the
birthplace of many a large salmon.

CHAPTER VI.

A SUNDAY AT THE SAGUENAY.

' As inward love breeds outward talk,
The hound some praise, and some the hawk ;
Some, better pleased with private sport,
Use tennis, some a mistress court ;

But these delights I neither wish

Nor envy, while I freely fish.

' Who hunts doth oft in danger ride ;
Who hawks lives oft both far and wide ;
Who uses games shall often prove
A loser ; but who falls in love

Is fettered in fond Cupid's snare :

My angle breeds me no such care.

' Of recreations there is none
So free as fishing is alone ;
All other pastimes do no less
Than mind and body both possess,

My hand alone my work can do,

So I can fish and study too.

' I care not, I, to fish in seas,
Fresh rivers best my mind do please,
Whose sweet calm course I contemplate,
And seek in life to imitate :

In civil bounds I fain would keep,
And for my past offences weep.

The first men that our Saviour dear
Did choose to wait upon him here
Bless' d fishers were, and fish the last
Food was that He on earth did taste :

I therefore strive to follow those

Whom He to follow Him hath chose." — ISAAC WALTON.

; Wanderers on the dark blue sea !
As your bark rides gallantly,
Prayer and praise become ye well,
Though ye hear no temple bell ;
The Sabbath hours which Grod has given,
Give ye to worship, rest, and heaven."

113

CHAP. VI.

A SUNDAY AT THE SAGUENAY.

EADER, have you ever
formed any idea as to the
manner in which fisher-
men in Canada pass their
Sundays ?

I ask the question, be-
cause I know that un-
founded impressions on
this subject have been
made upon the minds of
many amiable and well-
disposed persons, by the " evil speaking, lying, and slander-
ing " of a few evil-disposed and malicious individuals.

I ask the question without reference to the merchants'
clerks, the artisans, and the handicraftsmen of the cities,
too many of whom, I fear,

" Air their buttons, after six days' rust,"

by the side of some swift running brook, or on the bosom
of some smiling loch, armed with a white ash wattle, called

I

114 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

a fishing-rod, and depending rather upon the slice of
fat pork which covers the hooks of their flies, for deluding
the trout, than upon their skill in angling or their taste in
imitating the winged Ephemera.

I ask the question with regard to those who may be
really denominated "fishermen." Men who weigh anchor
in their yachts or chartered schooners for a month's or six
weeks' residence amongst the rivers, where

" They hear no temple bell ; "

where there are neither churches nor clergymen, but who,
nevertheless, are not forgetful of Him who " made the
heavens and the earth, and all that in them is," and who
" holds the waters in the hollow of His hand."

I ask the question that I may answer it ; and few, I
believe, are more capable of affording an answer, for few
have more frequently visited the scenes of which I write,
and still fewer have been associated in their excursions
with a greater variety of characters. And I have no
hesitation in stating that I have very rarely witnessed the
manifestation of any disposition to desecrate the Lord's
day by making it a day of amusement ; and that whenever
such disposition has shown itself, it has been at once dis-
countenanced and overruled by the majority of the party.
On the contrary, I have almost invariably found every in-
dividual comprised in the expedition, including sailors,
servants, and Indians, not only inclined to make the

TABOUSAC. 115

Sunday a day of rest, but to assemble and meet together,
to " set forth His most worthy praise, to hear His most
holy Word, and to ask those things that be requisite and
necessary, not only for the body but the soul," from Him
who u giveth us life and breath and all things."

In the month of July 1846, a little cutter yacht, having
on board the Commissioner, the Baron, the Captain, myself,
and a crew of three men, a boy and two servants, staggered
across the river St. Lawrence, from the Riviere du Loup
to Tadousac at the mouth of the mighty Saguenay, the
largest and most remarkable of the many streams which
add to its volume.

The meaning of the word Tadousac is said to be " the
mouth of the sack ; " from what language derived, or from
what circumstances bestowed upon this spot, I have not
been able to discover. It is a very beautiful bay on the
east side of the Saguenay, from which it is separated by a
bold headland ; in shape it is a deep crescent, has a lofty shore
of rock and a beach of beautiful sand. The salmon in their
annual emigration from the north to their spawning beds
in the tributaries of the St. Lawrence, turn into this bay
in great numbers, and used to be taken in hundreds by
seine nets, for the drawing of which its smooth beach
affords every facility. From hence, when the wind
answered, they were despatched in schooners to the Quebec
market, from which circumstance arises the question
which is invariably put to the fisherman who visits the

i 2

116 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Lower St. Lawrence. " Well, what sport have you had at
the Saguenay ? "

The evening was balmy and beautiful when we cast our
anchor into the deep clear water and found it firmly fixed
in the shining sand beneath. A gauze-like atmosphere
surrounded the houses of the Hudson's Bay Company's
offices, the flagstaff and the cannon which stand in front of
them, and the Indian encampment, and ruins of a Eoman
Catholic church close by, which latter is said to have been
built by Jesuits, some two hundred years ago, and to have
been the first building composed of stone and mortar
which reared its head upon the continent of North America.

Having presented our credentials from the Governor of
the Hudson's Bay Company's territory to their chief officer
at Tadousac, we walked across the tongue of land which
separates this lovely bay from the startling and picturesque
features of the Saguenay, which cannot be beheld without
awakening in the heart sensations of wonder, fear, and
reverence. The immense mountains which overhang this
fathomless river, whose solemn gloom has only lately been
cheered by the industry or presence of man, are of
stupendous and matchless grandeur. The peaks of some
of them rise above it, not only upright as a wall, but
hanging over to the height of two thousand feet, while
their bases sink beneath the dark waters — the deepest
river in the world — into all but unfathomable depths.
Language cannot describe the emotions of wonder and fear

MUSQUITOES. 117

which affect the beholder as he looks up and beholds this
awful display of the Creator's power.

In a nook among these mighty mountains near Tadousac,
stands a small nest of houses, together with some mills and
storehouses, belonging to Mr. Price, the extensive, enter-
prising, and respected merchant of Quebec, under whose
fostering care more than one prosperous and flourishing
village has started up in this hitherto almost unknown and
unvisitecl part of Canada. Here we were frankly and
hospitably received by Mr. William Price, who having
kindly received our notice that we proposed having divine
service on board our yacht on the following day, and
undertaken to give notice of it to the persons under his
authority, placed some boats at the disposal of our party,
and accompanied us on our evening excursion a mile or
two up the Saguenay for the purpose of trying our hands
at sea-trout fishing, which sport we enjoyed in very great
perfection for two or three hours — with one drawback
only, that we were persecuted beyond description by mus-
quitoes and black flies. Some idea may be entertained of
the revolution caused in " the human face divine " by the
assaults of these venomous insects from the narration of an
event which occurred on the evening I write of.

There were four of our party in one boat, which were
too many to permit us all to fish in comfort ; one therefore
volunteered to go on shore and take his chance in a deep
bay where the trout were rising merrily. We placed him

I 3

118 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

on some rocks at the southern extremity of this gloomy
inlet ; and then the Commissioner and myself, accompanied
by Mr. W. Price, proceeded higher up the great river,
killing many trout of various sizes and weights, until the
shades of evening added to the gloom of the overhanging
cliffs warned us that it was time to turn homewards in
search of shelter and of rest. As we moved along round
each headland we cast our eyes into the darkling inden-
tations of the rocks, in search of our friend whom we had
left behind us. At length we came rather suddenly
within a few yards of a very dark-visaged gentleman who
at the moment was playing a fish ; whereupon the Com-
missioner addressed him, congratulating him on his appa-
rently good sport, and inquiring whether he had seen
another fisherman during the evening. He was answered
by a guffaw from our friend, and not only by a guffaw, but
by a pretty smart jobation for our having left him so long
to be eaten alive by flies. The voice was the voice of our
friend, but the face was the face of a negro in convulsions.
To account for which it may be well to state that the
assault of the black fly is generally sudden and unexpected .
that the first indication you have of his presence, is the
running of a stream of blood over some part of your face,
which soon hardens there, and that these assaults being
renewed ad infinitum, under favourable circumstances,
soon renders it difficult even for his nearest and dearest
female relative to recognise him. The effect during the

THE BLACK FLY. 119

night following a mastication of this sort is dreadful.
Every bite swells to about the size of a filbert — every bite
itches like a burn, and agonizes like a scald — and if you
scratch them it only adds to your anguish — the whole
head swells, particularly the glandular and cellular parts,
behind and under the ears, the upper and lower eyelids, so
as in many cases to produce utter inability to see. The
poison is imbibed and circulated through the whole frame,
producing fever, thirst, heat, restlessness and despondency.
Patience, cooling medicines, and strict temperance are the
only remedies : the best preventives are temperance and
fly oil ; the latter should be composed of equal portions of
castor and fine almond or olive oil, strongly scented with
essence of pennyroyal and spirits of camphor. This
mixture, carried in a soda-water bottle, and frequently
applied to the exposed parts of the head and face, will be
found in general a preventive. Gauntlets which draw
over the sleeves of the coat, made of jean or some other
light and strong material, will be found particularly useful
in defending the hands and wrists from the cruel attacks of
the terrible winged insects, who are certainly the greatest
drawback to the enjoyment of the sportsman in Canada.

That good and kind man the Bishop of Quebec, during
a journey to the Ked Eiver in 1844, wrote the following
lines, amongst others, in his sweet " Songs of the Wilder-

14

120 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

MOSQUITOES.

" Among the plagues on earth which God has sent

Of lighter torment, is the plague of flies :
Not as of Egypt once the punishment,*

Yet such, sometimes, as feeble patience tries.

Where wild America in vastness lies,
Three diverse hordes the swamps and woods infest.

Banded or singly these make man their prize ;
Quick by their subtle dart is blood expressed
Or tumour raised. By tiny foe distressed, f

Travellers in forest rude, with veil are fain
To arm the face ; men there whose dwellings rest

Crouch in thick smoke; like help their cattle gain.J
0 wise in trials great, in troubles small,
Who know to find mementos of the Fall." §

But to return to our Sunday at the Saguenay. The
morning dawned bright, serene, and clear ; everything on
board the cutter had been made as clean as holystone and
swabs, and mops could make them the evening before.
About half past ten o'clock Mr. Price, accompanied by six

* "We do not read, however, that in this plague, which, like others,
had its pointed meaning, independently of its simple effect as a judgment,
the sting of the insects formed an addition to it."

f " The three kinds of stinging insects which we encountered, are called
by the French Canadians marungouins, moustiques, and brulots ; the first,
and not the moustiques, being our mosquitoes. The two latter are extremely
small black flies, one of them almost imperceptible, which draw the blood."

\ "I have been assured that the cattle, in situations where this protec-
tion is provided for them, come lowing to the house to have the fire renewed,
if it happens to fail. It is necessary, sometimes, that they should stand in
a thick smoke to be milked."

§ " My moral is, I hope, less equivocal than that which concludes Gay's
fable of the Man and the Flea ; the insect being made there to declare, in
repression of human arrogance and self-elation, ' that men were made for
fleas to eat.' "

THE SEKMON. 121

or seven respectable-looking mechanics, was seen winding
Ms way along the shore toward us ; following close upon
them, were several gentlemen from the Hudson's Bay
Company's post and a few Indians. They were all soon on
board, and having been received by the Commissioner, were
accommodated with seats in the main cabin at each side of
the dinner fable, where also sat our crew and servants ; the
whole representing a very fair number of the various
religious denominations into which the inhabitants of the
province are divided, together with a goodly number of
;fene Church of England.

At the head of the table, clad in a sober suit of black,
with a decent white choker, stood the gaunt and melan-
choly looking parson — melancholy looking I say, for the
man was not of a melancholy but of a sanguine and
cheerful disposition. Having read, in a plain and unaffected
voice, the morning service of the Church of England, with
the psalms and lessons for the day, he opened a volume
which lay beside him and spoke as follows.

"In the 21st chapter of the gospel according to St.
John at the 3rd verse, it is thus written,

' I go a fishing.'

" Whose words were these, my Brethren ? By whom were
they spoken? Were they uttered by some ignorant
heathen, some negligent disciple or some false Apostle?
No ; they are the words of the ardent, the energetic, the

122 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

heroic Saint Peter — of that Peter whose declaration of the
divinity of the Kedeemer, whilst others hung in doubt,
drew from the Saviour's lips the memorable words, ' Thou
art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church ' —
of that Peter who was one of the first and principal
supports of a fabric whose greatness reaches from earth to
heaven, and whose glory shall fill immensity — of that
Peter who was ordained by Christ Himself to be a minister
of the New Testament — who was selected by the great
Head of the church to celebrate His sacraments, to dispense
His ordinances, and to establish His kingdom — to whom
was entrusted the care of interests, and the dispensation of
blessings in comparison with which the pride and wisdom,
the honour and splendour, of this transitory world shrink
into a nameless, an inappreciable vanity — of that Peter,
who, with his brother Andrew, was first called to be the
ordained minister of the King of kings, the chosen pro-
genitor of the Christian priesthood — of that Peter by whom
the first declaration of salvation was made to the people,
by whose advice the first churches were planted, by whose
counsel they were governed, by whom the prejudices of
Judaism were first fairly surmounted, and the Grospel
preached to the Grentiles — that Peter who, undismayed by
imprisonment, declared to the Sanhedrim his determination
to persist in the preaching of the cross — that Peter, from
whose fettered limbs the Angel of Grod struck his chains,
and led him forth from the precincts of the prison house

THE SERMON. 123

to life and liberty and further labour in his divine Master's
cause — that Peter who when condemned to crucifixion by
the cruel Nero, did not deem himself worthy to die a death
of agony in the same manner as our divine Redeemer, and
was at his own request fastened to the cross with his head
downwards — thus, in meekness and humiliation following
the footsteps of his Saviour, on earth, obtaining a martyr's
crown, in heaven securing a saint's diadem of everlasting
glory.

" At the time he gave utterance to the words of our text,
seven of our Lord's disciples had assembled together on
the shore of the sea of Tiberias; as soon as Peter
announced his intention to them to ( go a fishing,' they
all agreed to accompany him, and spent the night in fruit-
less toil, for they caught nothing.

a When the morning came, as they approached the land,
there stood upon the shore One whom they did not recog-
nise, and who inquired of them whether they had any
meat ? On their answering in the negative, he directed
them to cast the net at the right side of the ship, and
assured them they should find.

" They cast the net without hesitation, and immediately
enclosed so great a multitude of fishes that they were
unable to draw it.

" This miracle was so similar in its nature and circum-
stances to that which had preceded the calling of Peter

124 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

that the dullest must have entertained a suspicion, if not a
conviction, of the presence of the Saviour.

" But it was the disciple whom Jesus loved — for affection
is quicksighted — who first satisfied himself as to its being
the Lord ; and on his telling this to Peter, that impetuous
and ardent disciple, threw himself into the sea, that he
might hasten to the Master whom he had lately so fiercely
denied, but to whom he now longed to give proof of a
devotedness increased by the remembrance of his fall, and
the graciousness of his forgiveness. The other disciples,
acting with less vehemence, but equally desiring to be
with their Lord, proceeded towards the land in their ship,
dragging with them the net and its ponderous enclosure,
and there they found a ' fire of coals, and fish laid thereon
and bread.'

" How came this fire of coals on this lonely shore ?
Who kindled it ? Who laid out the provision, the fish and
the bread ? If, as we can scarcely doubt, there was something
symbolical or significative in what thus met the disciples'
view, what are the truths, what the lessons, that were thus
figuratively conveyed ?

" The inspired historian gives nothing but the facts ; but
the facts would not have been written, except for our
admonition and instruction. Let us therefore avail our-
selves of the aid of an acute and eloquent divine * of the
present day, while we study them in simple dependence on

* Melville.

THE SERMON. , 125

the teaching of the Holy Spirit, through whom alone can
the dark things of Scripture be made clear, and the intricate
plain.

" The fire could hardly have been kindled by the disciples
themselves during the night ; they had been absent many
hours, and what they had lighted would have been extin-
guished : they would hardly have left fish behind them on
the shore ; for they had caught nothing, or if they had, the
fish which now stood ready for their meal could not have
been that which their own hands had placed on the coals.

" Besides, there is something peculiar in the manner in
which St. John mentions the fire and the provision. He
is particular in noting that it was 6 as soon as they were
come to land ' that the disciples saw this fire of coals. It
was the first object which met their eyes on landing.
There would have been nothing to mention had this fire
been only what they had themselves kindled overnight.
And we may believe that the Evangelist is so careful in
pointing out that the fire was seen on the instant of reach-
ing the shore, on purpose to make us understand that the
disciples did not light it after they landed, and that neither
did they stir up the embers of the day before. It might
have been expected that the disciples would have been so
engrossed with looking at their risen Master as to have had
no eye for any other object. Neither would they have had,
we may venture to believe, unless for something startling
and mysterious. But that strange fire, kindled, as they may

126 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

have felt, by invisible hands, seems to have drawn off their
attention even from the Lord Christ ; it fixed their gaze
as they set foot upon the shore, and perhaps, like the
burning bush with Moses, helped to persuade them of the
actual presence of Divinity. And now you will observe,
that though there was all the material for a repast, the
Saviour does not forthwith invite them to dine, but first of
all — this is a very significant circumstance — directs them
to bring of the fish which they had caught. Neither was
this direction complied with in haste ; there appears, on the
contrary, to have been great deliberation ; the net was drawn
to land, the fish were counted, and found to be in number
one hundred and fifty and three ; and it was not until this
had been done, and as we may conjecture, some of the
newly-caught fish had been dressed, in addition to those
already prepared, that our Lord bade his disciples partake
of the meal provided by His supernatural power.

" Such are the main circumstances of the narrative, in the
perusal of which we are inevitably impressed with the sense
as of something strange and unearthly.

" It may readily occur to the thoughtful mind as one ex-
planation of the kindled fire, and prepared repast, that
Christ had been thinking kindly of His wearied and hungry
disciples ; that, knowing how they had spent the night, and
how much they would be in need of refreshment, He had
graciously employed His power in making ready a meal,
where, had they been left to themselves they would have

THE SEKMOtf. 127

been utterly destitute. We need not exclude this explana-
tion. We may believe that it was part of the purpose of
our gracious and compassionate Lord, to supply the bodily
wants of His followers, to provide fire to warm them, and
food to satisfy them. But there is too much reason for
regarding the miraculous draught of fishes, like every other
miracle of our Lord's, as designed to serve for a parable, to
allow of our being content with an interpretation of the
text which would strip it of all figure, and reduce it to a
mere evidence of the tender consideration of Christ for the
bodily wants of His people.

"There is another explanation which may suggest itself,
and which makes the whole transaction refer especially to
St. Peter. It would certainly seem as if one great object of
this manifestation of Christ, had been the publicly restoring
to the Apostleship the disciple who had so shamefully
denied Him, but whose repentance had been as bitter as his
offence had been flagrant. So soon as the dinner was over,
Christ addressed Peter with the question, f Simon, son of
Jonas, lovest thou me more than these?' And when
Peter had replied, ' Yea, Lord, thou knowest that I love
thee,' Christ said unto him, ( Feed my lambs.' This
was, as it were, the reinvesting Peter with the pastoral
office, of which he might justly be thought to have stripped
himself when he basely, and with an oath, declared that
he belonged not to Christ. But Peter denied his Master
thrice ; and thrice did Christ now propose the same ques-

128 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

tion, and receiving the same answer, thrice did he deliver
the same charge of feeding the flock. As if Peter had
thrice lost the Apostleship by thrice denying Christ, Christ
thrice restored to him the office, that he himself and the
other Apostles might have no doubt as to his having been
forgiven. And when our Lord had thus, as it were, rein-
vested Peter with the Apostleship, he proceeded to pro-
phesy e by what death he should glorify Orod ; ' so that
almost the whole of this interview, as far as it is recorded
by the evangelist, was occupied with matters personal to
St. Peter, as though it had been on his account, or for
his sake, that Christ showed Himself the third time to His
disciples.

" But how does the mode or character of the manifestation
agree with the supposition of its having been granted with
an especial view to St. Peter, to his reinvestment with the
pastoral office ? Most accurately ; for when Simon Peter
was first called by Christ to devote himself to the preaching
of the Grospel, the Lord wrought, as you will remember, a
miracle precisely similar, in its nature and circumstances,
to that recorded in the narrative which we have under
review. Simon Peter and his partners were then in a ship
on the sea of Grennesareth. They had then toiled all night
and taken no fish. At the bidding of Christ they then also
let down the net, and the result then also was, that imme-
diately they e enclosed a great multitude of fishes.' And
then it was that Simon Peter, being overcome by the miracle,

THE SEKMON. 129

Christ separated him for the office, to which he afterwards
gave him a more solemn appointment and commission.

se It can hardly be imagined but that the similarity of the
miracle must have painfully forced itself on the attention
of St. Peter, bringing back to the mind of the penitent
disciple the happy occasion on which he had forsaken all
that he might follow our Lord, and perhaps suggesting
how deplorably he had since altered his position, through
overweening confidence in his own steadfastness and
courage.

" But, it may be asked, what had the ( fire of coals ' to do
with the transaction ? If we consider that our Lord caused
a miraculous draught of fishes to remind Peter how He
called him originally, and to produce in him a sorrowing
remembrance of his grievous apostasy, might not the
' fire of coals ' help in a measure to produce these effects ?
This much is certain, that the expression ( a fire of coals '
occurs only in one other place in the New Testament, as
though this were not the ordinary sort of fire, and the
evangelist wished especially to mark of what it was
made. And it is the same evangelist, St. John, who uses
the word on the two occasions, — St. John, whose great
object in writing his Grospel appears to have been to supply
the omissions of the preceding historians. But what is
the other occasion on which St. John mentions a ' fire of
coals ? ' It is when he is relating what took place in the
palace of the High Priest, after Jesus had been apprehended

130 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

and brought before Caiaphas : ' And the servants and
officers stood there, who had made a fire of coals — for it
was cold — and they warmed themselves, and Peter stood
with them and warmed himself.'

" It was, then, whilst he stood by this ' fire of coals ' that
Peter denied his blessed Lord and Master. It was whilst
he stood by this fire of coals that, the Saviour threw on him
that look which painting has never caught, and which
caused him to go forth and weep bitterly. Was not then
* a fire of coals,' found mysteriously kindled by unknown
hands on the shores of the lake, likely to recall to Peter
the circumstances of his apostasy ? It were hard to believe
that he could have looked on that strange fire, produced to
all appearance by a miracle of Christ, and not have had all
the scene in the High Priest's palace brought back upon
him with a sort of crushing power. Again is he standing
as he stood on that fatal night, and again he meets the
look, which, more terrible in its meek reproachfulness than
the fiercest glance of indignation and vengeance, convicted
him of apostasy and convulsed him with remorse.

" Nothing could be better constructed to fix his attention
on the Apostleship than a miracle most accurately resem-
bling that which had first moved him to forsake all and
follow Christ; and accordingly, after another night of
fruitless toil, the net is again ordered to be cast into the
sea, and again encloses a huge multitude of fishes. But
how, upon this wild sea-shore, is he to be forcibly reminded

THE SERMON. 131

of his apostasy ? What shall people that shore with recol-
lections of the scene of disaster and shame? Nay, if it
was by ( a fire of coals ' that the recreant apostle stood
when he thrice denied his Lord, and if ' a fire of coals'
were amongst the last things to be looked for on the
solitary coast, it might be hard to say what could have
been better fitted than a ( fire of coals ' to fill Peter with
a remembrance of his terrible fall. Oh it must have been
to him as though there thronged up from the past the
taunting questions of the servants, and his own fierce
execrations, and the shrill crowing of the cock, and the
piercing, subduing look of his Lord, when so soon as he
was come to land he ' saw a fire of coals there,' lighted,
he knew not how, but for what he could not doubt.

" But whilst we think that such an explanation agrees
admirably with many of the circumstances of the case, and
is replete with interest and instruction, we cannot give it
you as in every respect satisfactory. We have still to
seek an explanation which shall satisfy all parts of the
narrative ; and this, we think, is to be found in the progress
of the Gospel, and the connection between the old and new
dispensations.

"In one of our Lord's parables, the kingdom of heaven is
likened unto a net, which, being cast into the sea,
f gathered of every kind ; ' so that we may be said to have

tour Lord's own authority for considering that the miraculous
iraught of fishes represented the bringing of multitudes
K 2

132 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

into the Church through the instrumentality of the
preachers of the Grospel. It is observable also that Simon
Peter is said to have drawn the net to land : there may
have been a reference here to the fact that in reward of
his noble confession of Christ, Peter was intrusted with the
opening the Church to the Grentiles; he it was, who,
instructed by a vision from Grod, admitted by baptism
Cornelius and his friends to the privileges of Christianity.
For there can be no doubt, that in this second miraculous
draught of fishes, there was a special reference to the
combining of all nations in the visible Church. The
number of fishes is to be carefully noted ; ( an hundred and
fifty and three ; ' and so also is the remark of the evangelist,
( And for all there were so many, yet was not the net broken.'
As to the number, it appears that one hundred and fifty
and three was exactly the number of kinds or varieties of
fish then known; so that we may most justly conclude
that the number was an indication that persons of all
nations and conditions should enter into the Church. And
then the remark as to the net not being broken, though
it enclosed so many fish, must be considered as prophetic
of the capacity of the Christian Church ; unlike the Jewish,
which was not constructed for enlargement and extension,
the Christian Church might embrace the ends of the earth,
and not be overcharged, whatever the multitude and
variety of converts. So far there is little difficulty in
assigning the parabolic character of the narrative before

THE SERMON. 133

us ; every one may readily follow the facts, and be aware
of their typical import.

" But now we come again to the ( fire of coals ' and the
prepared repast — what truths did these symbolically teach,
when taken, as they must be, in immediate connection
with the other figurative facts ? My brethren, you are to
observe and remember, that the Jewish and the Christian
dispensations are not so truly distinct and detached
economies, as component parts of one great plan and
arrangement. There have never been two ways in which
sinners might be saved ; in the Old Testament, as in the
New, e everlasting life is offered to mankind by Christ,
who is the only mediator between God and Man, being
both God and Man.' In the New Testament, indeed, we
have the clearer exposition of the great scheme of mercy ;
God's wondrous purpose of saving the Church through the
sacrifice of His only begotten Son, is there set forth with a
fulness and precision, which it were vain to seek in the
writings of the Old. Nevertheless there is no difference
whatsoever in the doctrine propounded, but only in the
measure of its revelation : and ' however great the change
which was made through the coming of Christ when
external distinctions were swept away, and life and immor-
tality especially brought to light, there still went on the
original process for the deliverance of the fallen race of
man. The process was but continued, though with less of
vail and obscurity, and they who were first enclosed within

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134 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

what might in strictness be styled the G-ospel net, were
caught — to keep up the metaphor — within the same
meshes, and drawn to shore through the same instrumen-
tality, as men of olden times, the righteous who obtained
eternal life by the assistance of the patriarchal or of the
legal dispensation.

"But let us see whether this great truth may not have
been figuratively taught by the facts of which we are
endeavouring to find an explanation. There was already
a fire kindled when the Apostles dragged to shore the net,
which especially represented the Christian Church, the
church that was to subsist in its expanded form subsequently
to the coming of Christ. And on the fire which was thus
burning there were fish already laid; yea, and the first
direction to the Apostles was, that they should bring of the
fish which had just been caught, and add them to those
which were already on the coals. Now since by the fish
of all kinds which the net enclosed, we are undoubtedly to
understand the members of the Church under the Grospel
dispensation, ought we not to understand by the fish already
on the coals, the members of the Church under the Jewish
dispensation ? This is nothing but preserving or keeping
up the metaphor. If the fish just caught, represented the
converts that would be made by the preaching of the
Grospel, the fish which had been caught before, and not by
those who now drew the net to land, may — we should
rather say must — represent those of whom the Church had

THE SERMON. 135

been composed during the ministrations of the law. So
that the visible Church before Christ was figured by the
fish already on the coals, the visible Church after Christ by
the fish just enclosed in the net; and when the newly
caught fish were placed on the same fire with those which
had previously been secured, was it not shown that the
visible Church before and after the coming of Christ, was
virtually but one and the same? that its members, at
whatever time they lived, had to be brought to the same
altar, and to be purified by the same flame ? I know not
why we should not think that that strange fire, mysteriously
kindled, on the lonely shore, was typical of the propitiatory
work of the Kedeemer, through whom alone the men of
any age can be presented as a sacrifice acceptable unto
(rod. We have all to be laid upon an altar ; we have all,
as it were, to be subject to the action of fire ; but there is
no altar but the one Mediator, and no fire but that of His
one great oblation, which will answer for those who seek
to consecrate themselves, a whole burnt-offering, to their
Creator in heaven.

" And what could be a more lively parable of this fact,
than that, just before His departure from earth, when
standing on the margin of the sea, — the separating line, so
to speak, between time and eternity, — Christ caused an
altar to rise, mysterious as Himself — for no human hands
reared it — and crowned it with burning coals, which had
not been kindled by any earthly flame ; and then brought

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136 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

about that there should be placed on this sacred and signi-
ficant fire representatives of the one visible Church, as it
had subsisted before His incarnation, and as it was to subsist
till He should come the second time to judgment ?

"Now it can hardly be said that there is any part of the
remarkable transaction before us which does not thus find
a consistent interpretation. It is true, indeed, that we
have made no observation on there having been bread as
well as fish already provided; whereas the evangelist is
careful in noting it, a,nd in afterwards mentioning that
our Lord took of both, of the bread and the fish, and gave
to His disciples. But you will remember that Christ, on a
former occasion, had fed a great multitude with a few
loaves and fishes, typifying how the truths and doctrines
of His religion should suffice for the spiritual sustenance of
the world. The disciples would naturally be reminded of
this miracle, when Jesus again took bread and fish, and
distributed amongst them — reminded too, and what parting
lesson could be more important? that the food which
Christ delivered to them as spiritual pastors, would be an
abundant provision for the men of all ages and countries.

" But now considering that a sufficient and consistent
interpretation has been assigned to the several parts of the
narrative before us, we would show you, in conclusion,
into how beautiful an allegory some of the facts may be
wrought, when a broader view is taken, one which shall
more distinctly comprehend ourselves. We would not,

THE SERMON. 137

indeed, claim, for what we have now to advance, the
character of an explanation, or interpretation, of the
significative circumstances — it is at best but an accommo-
dation of the parable — but when a portion of Scripture
has been expounded as if relating rather to others than to
ourselves, it is both lawful and useful to search for some
personal application, that we may feel our own interest,
and find our own profit in the passage reviewed.

" It is a natural and appropriate simile which likens life
to a voyage, a voyage which has a variety of terminations —
sometimes in calm, sometimes in storm ; the vessel, in one
case, casting anchor in placid waters, so that the spirit has
but, if we may use the expression, to step gently ashore ;
in another, suffering shipwreck, so that there is fearful
strife and peril in escaping from the waves. We shall all
reach the shore of another world : for though some may be
said to be thrown violently on that shore, whilst others are
landed on it as by the kind ministry of angels, none can
perish as if existence might terminate at death ; of all it
will have to be said, as of those with St. Paul in the ship,
some by swimming, some on boards, and some on broken
pieces of the ship, f it comes to pass that they escaped all
safe to land.'

" And there is something of a delineation of this variety
of modes of death, in Peter's 'struggling through the water,
whilst the other disciples approach the shore in their boat.
Peter's is the violent death, the death of the martyr ; but

138 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

his companions find a gentler dismissal from the flesh:
theirs is the natural death, death with fewer of the ac-
companiments which invest the last act with terror and
awfulness. Yet, die when we will and how we will, there
is a mysteriousness about the moment of dissolution,
which must cause it to be expected with some measure of
fear and apprehension. The passing in that moment
from time to eternity — the becoming in that instant a
disembodied spirit, a naked, unclothed soul, launched
upon an unknown scene, with none of the instru-
ments heretofore employed for the ingathering of know-
ledge or the communication of thought — oh, who ever
marked, so far as it can be marked, the noiseless flitting
away of man's immortal part, without experiencing a
painful inquisitiveness as to what had become of that part,
as to where it was, as to what it saw, as to what it heard ?
There may be thorough assurance that the soul has gone
to be with the Lord ; but whilst this destroys all anxiety
on its account, it does not, cannot, repress the striving of
the mind to follow it in its flight, the intense gaze at the
folds of the veil which hangs between the present world
and the future, as if it must have been so far withdrawn
for the admission of the spirit just freed from the flesh,
that some glimpse might be caught by the watchful of the
unexplored region beyond.

" But in vain this striving of the mind, this intenseness of
gaze. Whilst we live, it is as an infinite desert, which no
thought can traverse, that separates the two worlds;

THE SERMON. 139

though when welcome to die, it. will be found but a line,
like that which the wave leaves on a sandy shore. Let it
satisfy us in the meanwhile, that, whatever the mode in
which the soul of the righteous is dismissed — whether that
mode be imaged in Peter's casting himself into the sea,
and struggling to the land, or whether it be represented in
the quieter approachings of the boat with the other
disciples — the soul will find preparation, as it were, for its
reception; Christ stands there expecting his faithful
servants, and of all of them it will have to be said, ( As
soon as they were come to land, they saw a fire of coals
there, and fish laid thereon and bread.' Oh, this may
well shadow out, what we have abundant warrant for
believing from more express statements of Scripture, that,
to the faithful in Christ, the moment of being detached
from the body is the moment of being admitted into a
state of rest and peace and happiness. ( As soon as they
were come to land,' all that was needed was found ready ;
the fire kindled, and the banquet spread.

" Yet who doubts that the righteous will not only find the
material of happiness prepared, but that they will carry
with them, so to speak, additions to that material, and
make heaven all the richer and brighter by their arrival ?
It is ' the communion of saints ' ; and whilst each saint
shall draw cause of rapture from those who have gone
before, they also shall draw cause of rapture from him.
How beautifully apposite then is the direction, ' Bring of
the fish which ye have now caught.' The banquet, the

140 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

marriage supper of the Lamb, shall be furnished from the
contributions of every generation ; all that any man, in
any age, has been enabled to accomplish in works of
righteousness and faith, every spiritual battle won, every
convert made, shall IDC mingled in that vast store of
happiness, of which the glorified Church shall everlastingly
partake. * Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord ;
yea, saith the Spirit, that they may rest from their labours ;
and their works do follow them.' They ( rest from their
labours,' in that, as soon as they come to land, they see a
* fire of coals there, and fish laid thereon and bread : '-
'their works do follow them,' in that they are there
bidden to bring of the fish which they have caught. Oh
that we may all so labour during life, that hereafter, when
judged, as we must be, by our works, there may be found,
not indeed — what can never be, a claim to the happiness
of heaven, but an evidence of our having loved the Lord
Jesus in sincerity and truth. Amen."

CHAPTER VII.

SALMON FISHING IN THE SAGUENAY.

" Very good song,
And very well sung ;
Jolly companions,
Every one."

143

CHAP. VII.

SALMON FISHING IN THE SAGUENAT.

ANY were the commen-
taries made by the indi-
viduals comprising the
various groups, on the ser-
mon of the chaplain, as they
retired from the cabin of the
cutter to their residences on
the land or to their quar-
ters on board the vessel.
One only met the ears of his reverence, which was uttered
by the blithe and careless Baron ; namely, " that it was very
fishy ; " calling forth from the Priest a grave rebuke, which
was received, as every lecture or scolding or quizzing was
by the Baron, with the most imperturbable good humour.

The Baron was a very handsome man. He was six feet
two or three inches in height, had a profusion of dark
brown hair, with a black beard and whiskers, which had
now grown to an enormous length — features which, in

144 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

repose, were tinged with a hue of deep melancholy, but
when animated — and that was almost always the case —
beaming with good humour, intelligence, and playfulness.
Light of limb and agile as a roebuck, his every step was
graceful. These natural advantages had been cultivated
by education, and his manner polished by association with
the highest society in Europe — every country and court of
which was familiar to him, and almost every language of
which he spoke with ease and fluency.

In early life he had entered the navy of his native
country, and there became an excellent mathematician
and an admirable practical navigator; but having soon
inherited the title and large possessions of his father, a
distinguished officer, he was appointed to a place at court,
when, " disdaining a slothful life," he took to the pursuit of
pleasure of every description, an exercise which is very
seldom found to be conducive to the improvement of a
man's patrimony — as he soon began to feel — and in conse-
quence had visited Canada to look after a large tract of
land which his more prudent parent had purchased some
years previously.

He was a delightful companion, and the very best-
tempered man I was ever on a cruise with.

I saw him angry once, and only once. We had set out
on an expedition to fish the rivers on the coast of Labrador
with the ostensible intention of being absent from Canada
for one month only, at the expiration of which he was

THE BARON. 145

pledged to meet the Baroness at the Falls of Niagara. But
we had already spent more than six weeks in going from
river to river, and had been encamped for more than a
fortnight on the banks of the beautiful Mingan, where the
water becoming low, and the sport slack, we resolved to
turn our faces homewards ; and so with sorrowful hearts
struck our tents, and conveyed our traps to the yacht* We
found the wind blowing very fresh, exactly in our teeth,
with a heavy sea rolling, so that it would have been useless
to make sail. The next day was dark, the wind had gone
down, the air was calm, but the mighty waves " curling
their monstrous heads," — like girls preparing for a ball —
came tumbling into the mouth of the harbour, and with
their hoarse voices plainly forbade us to go to sea. Where^
upon the Captain and I resolved to have one cast more for
a salmon, and proceeding to the pools, passed a delightful
afternoon, killing on that little sandbank, which neither of
us will easily forget, five fresh-run, short, and beautiful
fish of 12, 15, 17, 19 and 21 pounds weight. Whilst
we were on our way down the river, returning to the
schooner, we overtook the Commissioner in his canoe : he
had also killed his fish, was in good spirits, and gave us a
most animated account of the Baron's anxiety to be off.
Upon which we formed a conspiracy to propose the recon-
struction of our camp, near the junction of the two rivers,
in order to try his temper and have a laugh at him.

Dinner was come and gone, the Baron was dejected and

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146 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

paid small attention to the proportions in mixing his brandy
and water. The cloud-compelling Jove would have
hidden his diminished head had he seen the wreaths of
curling smoke which came pouring forth from his lips.
The rest of us talked over the events of the day, and (C twice
we slew the slain ; " when the Commissioner made an obser-
vation on the weight and freshness of the salmon we had
that day killed, as indicative that they were the heralds of
a new run of large fish.

" Do you know," said the Captain, " that the very same
idea was passing through my mind, and that I think it
folly for us to remain here, losing four or five hours in
each day going to the pools, when we might just as well
wait for a fair wind at the camping ground."

The Baron looked steadily at him and finished his
glass of grog.

e< I was all along opposed to our coming on board till
everything was ready for a start," said the Commissioner.
Here the Baron mixed another glass of brandy and water
with still less regard to the usual proportions.

(S Well then," said the Captain, " let us put it to the vote.
Old Jean Pare the pilot says that we shall have to-morrow
un gros nord-est, and there's no manner of use in stay-
ing here to be tossed about like shuttlecocks at night and
to break our hearts in polling up against the stream in
the morning. I am for pitching our tents again. Come,
Commissioner, what say you ? "

THE BAROtf. 147

" I say ditto," answered the Commissioner ; " we cannot
lose more than one tide by doing so, we can cook our
fish better at the camp fire than in the stove here, and
we shall be home time enough." The Baron finished his
tumbler.

6 ( Priest, now it is your turn," said the Captain. " What
do you think is best to be done ? " The Baron looked
towards me with great confidence — for he knew that I had
long been anxious to be homeward bound, — while I,
throwing as much patience and resignation into my counte-
nance as I could assume, replied : —

"It is little matter to me now how long we stay here, I
have long since overstepped the limits of my leave ; and that
being the case, the consequences will be no worse if I am
detained away another month : so that the prospect which
to-day's sport affords of some good fishing, induces me to
vote for deserting the ship to-morrow, and pitching our
tents in the " old spot."

The Baron, who had just compounded another tumbler-
ful! of brandy and water, swallowed it at a draught, then
slapped the glass with such emphasis on the table that it flew
into fragments, and before he could be asked for his vote
stalked out of the cabin towards the companion-ladder in
an unutterable rage ; but the peals of laughter by which he
was followed opened his eyes to the joke, and brought him
back to join in the amusement which his rising so readily

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148 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

at so rough a bait caused us. I never saw him angry
before or since.

Those who were present will not readily forget that at one
of the rivers which we visited during the expedition
mentioned above, we encountered a gentleman, who, -like
the Baron, had been for some time in the navy, and that
between them many nautical subjects were canvassed, and
many differences of opinion discussed.

On one evening when this very worthy man was our
guest, the conversation — as was not unusual — turned upon
what each of us had seen and done in the way of salmon
killing. The Baron — who by the bye was no great fisher-
man—was eloquent on the subject of some Hucho fishing
he had had in the Danube, and mentioned one particular
Hucho which took him several hours to bring to land.
Our new acquaintance was a very matter-of-fact personage,
and questioned and cross-questioned him till he was on the
very verge of impatience. At length, after having drawn
from him every particular regarding the flies, casting-lines,
rods used in killing Huchos, and the weight of the one
alluded to — which I think the Baron stated was 140lbs., —
he inquired whether he had hooked him from the bank or
from a boat : the answer was " from the bank," which was
followed by the question, " Then I suppose you had to run
with him a long way down the river ? " The Baron's reply,
which was given with the utmost coolness, and with a well-
bred stare, was, " Oh, not far — about three leagues ! "

THE CAPTAIN. 149

" Sweet in temper, fair in favour,

Mild in manner, firm in fight ;
Baron, nobler, gentler, braver,
Never shall behold the light."

The Captain. How shall I describe the Captain ? If
the Captain wanted shirts, he would proceed to a haber-
dasher's and order home a hundred dozen. If the Captain
took a fancy for oysters, he would purchase a schooner
full. If his leaning was towards claret, he would negotiate
for the produce of a vineyard, He was hospitable, and
had a wife who adorned his home — he was (f sui profusus?
but he was not " alieni appetens" unless the " chose in
action " was a sporting salmon, in which case impartiality
compels me to record my opinion, that he would rather
prefer to hook and kill the fish himself than that any other
individual in the wide world should do so, and small blame
to him. He was an exceedingly agreeable companion,
highly educated, had served in various parts of the world
while very young — during one of his campaigns in a far
distant and distracted land I first met him, was a hand^
some man and knew it, rather impatient when everything
did not go quite right, tant soit pen argumentative, and a
little unmanageable when unadvisedly contradicted. Like
many others, he was apt, if the wind was easterly, to
magnify disagreeable mole-hills into mountains of mis-
fortune ; and he, who would face fearlessly the raging bear,
jump boldly at a yawning mountain chasm, or swim a
swollen torrent in his clothes, would occasionally suffer

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150 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

himself to be put out of temper by having to breakfast or
to dine an hour earlier than he thought fashionable or
suitable. He had read much, and remembered well ; was
a good linguist, a temperate man, a good churchman, tied
an excellent fly — of which he was particularly careful —
was a laborious and persevering fisherman, and had great
taste in dinners and in dress.

The first time we sailed in his yacht, he, from some un-
accountable whim, arrayed himself in a full suit of scarlet, —
scarlet jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and scarlet trousers. Upon
landing at Mingan Harbour, we found that in order to
ascend the river in our boats, we should either have to
make a detour round a large sandbank at its mouth, of
some six or seven miles, or have the boats carried across a
narrow strip of land, three or four hundred yards, which
separated us from it. The officer commanding at the
Hudson's Bay Company's post having obligingly offered us
a sled and. a bull for the purpose, determined us to adopt
the latter course.

The bull was caught — harnessed, and, not without
sundry manifestations of unwillingness, led to the water's
side, where the boats had been already drawn up ; when
the seamen, with the assistance of a couple of Indians, set
about placing one of them upon the sled. During this
process, the Captain who was directing it, passed in front of
the bull, who gazed at him, apparently with a mixture of
fear and amazement, showing symptoms of a desire to re-

THE CAPTAIN AND THE BULL. 151

treat, disturbing in some degree the equilibrium of the
boat, and causing the Captain to repass hastily in front of
him. Then fear forsook him, and indignation occupied
the place of amazement in his bovine bosom ; he rushed
furiously > his head lowered, and his horns directed towards
the acute angle in the scarlet trousers, overthrowing on
his hands and face the old habitant who endeavoured to
restrain him with the reins, and by the violence of his
movements breaking one of the traces which attached him
to the sled and to the boat. The other trace having held
out against the rapidity of his speed and the suddenness
and strength of his plunges, caused the brute to slew
round suddenly, which brought him again in full view of
the Captain — who had been dodging round the sled — in
his full suit of scarlet. The exasperation of the bull at
this reappearance of the apparition which annoyed him,
then knew no bounds ; he made a desperate lunge at the
Captain — the Captain ran for it — the bull, jangling the
chain traces at his heels, pursued him — the Captain
increased his speed to the utmost— the bull was closing
upon him — the Captain doubled — the bull's breath felt hot
upon the captain's back, but neither his coolness nor his
pluck forsook him; he espied a small opening underneath
the wharf, for which he directed his hasty steps, and where,
in about five feet of water, the suit of scarlet was com-
pletely hidden from the glaring and disappointed eyes of
the infuriated bull, whose attention was immediately occu-

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152 SALMON FISHING IX CANADA.

pied by the barking, growling, howling, and snapping
of about a hundred and fifty Indian dogs from an en-
campment of the Eed Men close by, causing him, in his
endeavours to escape from them, to run a capital ring
through the bush at the rear of the post, and affording us
— while we held our sides with laughter — an excellent idea
of a buffalo hunt. The Captain gladly emerged from his
concealment, looking very like a seedy river (rod in a
pantomime, and, to the best of my belief, has abjured
scarlet as a fishing costume.

The third individual comprised in our party on the
occasion was the Commissioner. The Commissioner was a
curiosity. He was the most expensively and the most
ill-dressed man on the wide continent of North America.
One would almost be inclined to think that he studied
incongruity as the model after which he arrayed himself,
except that his slovenliness forbid the idea of his having
ever bestowed a thought upon the subject. I have seen
him at one time promenading a populous city in a dirty,
powder-smeared and blood-stained shooting coat, while
his nether man was encased in black dress pantaloons, silk
stockings and highly varnished french -leather dancing
pumps. At another, I have met him with one of Gribbs'
most recherche dress coats, a ragged waistcoat, and worn-
out trousers, all looking as if he had slept in them for a
week, and lain inside of the bed among the feathers. His
shirts never had a button upon them, which constantly

THE COMMISSIONER. 153

caused his brawny and hairy chest to be exposed to view,
while a fringe of ravelled threads from their wrists usually
hung dangling over his fat, freckled, and dirty hands. It
was a complete puzzle to his acquaintances where he ob-
tained all the old hats he wore. That he changed his hats
frequently was evident, for none of them ever bore the
same shape for two days together ; their forms were mul-
titudinous, so Protean, as to defy description ; but it may
be said of them generally, that their outline was that
which might be expected of the hat of an Irishman, who
had been so well beaten on a wet day, in a fair, as to be
induced to sleep all night in a ditch.

Though his head' was white, and his face purple — like
a red cabbage in snow — he was, as Nathaniel Hawthorne
says " a wonderful specimen of winter green." With his
brisk and vigorous step and his hale and hearty aspect, he
seemed — not young indeed, but a new contrivance in the
shape of a man whom age and infirmity had no business
to touch. His voice and laugh had nothing of the tremu-
lous quaver and cackle of an old man's utterance, they
came strutting out of his lungs, like the crow of a cock or
the blast of a clarion.

Looking at him merely as an animal, he was a very
satisfactory object, from the thorough healthfulness and
wholesomeness of his system, and his capacity, old as he
was, to enjoy all, or nearly all, the pleasures which he had
ever aimed at or conceived. The careless security of his

154 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

life, in an official situation, on a regular income, with but
slight and infrequent apprehensions of removal, had, no
doubt, contributed to make time pass lightly over him.
The original and more potent causes, however, lay in the
rare perfection of his animal nature.

To hear him talk of roast meat was as appetizing as a
pickle or an oyster. It made one's mouth water to listen
to him expatiating on fish or poultry, and the most eligible
methods of preparing them for table. His reminiscences
of good cheer seemed to bring the savour of turkey or
lobsters under one's very nostrils. It wTas marvellous to
observe how the ghosts of bygone meals were continually
rising up before him, not in anger or in retribution, but as
if grateful for his former appreciation^ and seeking to
renew an endless series of enjoyment at once shadowy and
sensual. A tender loin of beef, a spare rib of pork, a par-
ticular magnum of claret, or a remarkably praiseworthy
jorum of punch, which had satiated his appetite or appeased
his thirst in days long gone by, would be remembered,
while all the subsequent experience of our race, all the
events that had brightened or darkened his individual
career, all memory of the friends who had clung to him in
his misfortunes, had as little effect upon him as the passing
breeze.

His temper was as uncertain as the wind towards his
subordinates; sometimes familiar as a playfellow, at others
as imperious, overbearing, and unreasoning as a Turk. He

THE COMMISSIONS. 155

was more cautious, however, with his superiors, and with
those whose opinions might affect his interests. But — he
was capable of a good-natured act, was a persevering
fisherman — could tie, roughly, a killing fly — enjoyed a
joke — made no objection to hard work, or coarse diet by
" flood or field," and altogether was not a bad sort of com-
panion for an expedition to the rivers in the Gulf of St.
Lawrence. One of his boasts was to travel with the
smallest possible quantity of luggage, indeed he seldom
incumbered himself even with a change of linen. I re-
member one very wet summer, that he and the Captain
and I were encamped at the Upper Pool of the Groodbout :
we got thoroughly saturated with rain, and had to invent
some device for drying our clothes ; with this intention, we
erected, near our camp fire, two* uprights and a cross pole,
to act as a substitute for a clothes' horse^ on which we
spread our moist and heavy garments, in hopes that the
rain would cease . during the night, and that in the morn-
ing we should be enabled to array ourselves more com-
fortably than we had done for some days. But, " aliter
visum est" — the rain fell in torrents, the wind blew in
fearful gusts, and we slept like tops, and did not even
venture to put our heads outside of the tent, until the
blushing morn tinged the heads of the dark pines, on the
western bank of the river with a rosy hue. Then what a
scene met our view ! The tempestuous wind had over-
turned our clothes' horse and our clothes into the blazing

156 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

camp fire, which was now quite extinguished, but enough
remained amongst the charred and blackened logs to prove
to us that our garments had fallen victims to the fire and
the wind. Here we could dimly discern the remains of a
beloved red flannel shirt ; there we saw the sole of a well-
nailed and trusty shooting shoe ; in one place might be
seen the arm of a jacket, and in another, as if it had walked
away from the fire, the leg of a shepherds-plaid trousers.

We did not long mourn over our misfortunes ; the day
promised well for fishing ; the Captain and I were enabled
to rig ourselves somewhat in the fashion of European
Christians, but the Commissioner had literally nothing to
cover him. At length, however, after having for a con-
siderable time rooted amongst the ashes, he appeared ar-
rayed in one half of a light blue flannel waistcoat, one leg
and thigh of a pair of blackened russia-ducks which were
held up by a piece of silk-fishing line, a shocking bad hat,
and a pair of spectacles ; in which costume he fished, and
dined and breakfasted and slept for nine days and nine
nights, without a murmur, and, as I believe, without any
doubt or misgiving but that he was as well dressed as he
need be to attend a ball or a levee.

The Priest, or, as he was often called by his friends, the
Bishop, was the last item in the composition of this parti
quarre. He, however, has no notion of drawing his own
picture. If the amiable reader cannot form some idea of his
mind and character from the perusal of the foregoing

THE PEIEST.

157

pages, he must be content to live and die unknown and
unappreciated. But here the reader may be inclined to
say, " I did not open this chapter to be bothered with de-
scriptions of the Captain and the Commissioner and the
Priest. I wanted to learn all about salmon fishing in the
Saguenay, and there is not one word upon the subject,
although it is headed with these very words.'*

'My dear friend — don't be impatient — don't be angry.
The reason you have learned nothing about salmon fishing
in the Saguenay from this chapter is simply, that there is
no salmon fishing in the Saguenay ; so keep your temper
and turn tranquilly to the chapter which follows, and
4f you shall see — what you shall see."

CHAPTER VIII.

SALMON FISHING IN THE TEIBUTAEIES OF THE SAGUENAY.

" If all the seas were one sea,
What a great sea that would be ;
If all the trees were one tree,
What a tall tree that would be ;
If all the axes were one axe,
What a sharp axe that would be ;
If all the Yankees were one Yankee,
What a 'cute Yankee he would be ;
And if the 'cute Yankee took the sharp axe,
And cut down the tall tree,
And let it fall into the great sea,
What an immortal splash that would be."

HOLYOAKE'S POEMS.

161

CHAP. VIII.

SALMON FISHING IN THE TRIBUTARIES OF THE SAGUENAT.

OME, Bishop," said the
Captain, as we sat at the
breakfast table in the cabin
of the cutter on Monday
morning, " as it is raining
too hard for us to expect
any sport to-day, I will
V|i tie some flies, and you will
tell us what you know
about the salmon fishing
higher up this river."

" My dear fellow," replied the Priest, " you are quite
right to avail yourself of the opportunity which this terrible
weather affords, for adding to your stock of flies, which is
easier than increasing your store of information about the
fishing in the Saguenay, if I am to be the source from
whence your knowledge is to be derived, for I have never
been farther up the river than we were on Saturday
evening, and all I know about the matter is from hearsay,

162 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

and that is never to be depended upon in matters pisca-
torial, with regard to which I say deliberately, that which
the Psalmist said in his haste, ( All men are liars.' But
I have a little book here published by Carey and Hart of
Philadelphia, purporting to be written by a Mr. Charles
Lanman, which may throw some light upon the subject."

" What's the title of the book ? " said the Captain.

sf(A Tour to the Eiver Saguenay in Lower Canada,' replied
the Priest ; " and I think I may just as well read you what
he says about the river, in addition to what he says about
the fishing, as his account is not a bad one.

" ' The scenery of the Saguenay,' says he, e is wild and
romantic to an uncommon degree. The first half of its
course averages half a mile in width, and runs through an
untrodden wilderness of pine and spruce covered hills; it
abounds in waterfalls and rapids, and is only navigable
for the Indian canoe.' "

Here the Baron asked what he meant by the " first half
of its course ? " was it the half adjoining the St. Lawrence,
or the half nearest to its source ? " The half nearest its
source of course," answered the Priest, and went on read-
ing, " * A few miles below the most southern fall on the
river, is located the village of Chicoutamie, where an ex-
tensive lumber business is transacted, and the Hudson's
Bay Company have an important post. The village has
an ancient appearance, and contains about five hundred
inhabitants, chiefly Canadian French. The only curiosity

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 163

in the place is a rude Catholic church, which is said to
have been built by Jesuit missionaries upwards of one
hundred years ago."

"If it was built by Jesuits," said the Captain, "the
Yankee ought to have called it a, Roman Catholic church."

t( Don't interrupt me," replied the Priest, " or I'll leave
you to read the book for yourself."

" ( In the belfry of this venerable church hangs a clear-
toned bell, with an inscription upon it which the learning of
Canada, with all its learned and unnumbered priests, has
not yet been able to translate or expound.

" ' About ten miles south of Chicoutamie, there recedes
from the west bank of the Saguenay, to the distance of ten
miles, a beautiful expanse of water called Grand Bay. The
original name of this bay was, " Ha Ha," descriptive of
the surprise which the French experienced when they first
entered it, supposing that it was the Saguenay, until their
shalops grounded on the north-western shore. The tides
of the ocean are observable as far north as Chicoutamie,
and this entire section of the river is navigable for ships of
the largest class.

" 'That portion of the Saguenay extending from Grand
Bay to the St. Lawrence, a distance of sixty miles, is greatly
distinguished for its wild and picturesque scenery. I know
not that I can better portray to my reader's mind the
peculiarity of this river than by the following method.
Imagine for a moment, an extensive country of rocky and

M 2

164 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

thinly clad mountains, suddenly separated by some con-
vulsion of nature, so as to form an almost bottomless chasm
varying from one to two miles in width ; and then imagine
this chasm suddenly half filled with water, and that the
moss of centuries has softened the rugged walls on either
side, and you will have a pretty accurate idea of the
Saguenay. The shores of this river are composed princi-
pally of granite, and every bend presents you with an
imposing bluff, the majority of which are eight hundred
feet high, and many of them upwards of fifteen hundred.
Generally speaking, these towering bulwarks are not con-
tent to loom perpendicularly into the air, but they must
needs bend over, as if to look at their own savage features
reflected in the deep. Ay, and that word deep but tells
the simple truth ; for the flood that rolls beneath is black
and cold as the bottomless pit. To speak without a figure
and from actual measurement, I can state that many
portions of the Saguenay are one thousand feet deep ; and
the shallowest parts not much less than one hundred. In
many places too the water is as deep five feet from the
rocky barriers as it is in the centre of the stream. The
feelings which filled my breast, and the thoughts which
oppressed my brain, as I paddled by these places in my
canoe, were allied to those which almost overwhelmed me,
when I first looked upward from below the fall to the
mighty flood of Niagara. Awful beyond expression is the
sensation which one experiences in sailing along the

THE SAGUENAY ANEf ITS TEIBUTARIES. 165

Saguenay ; to raise his eye heavenward and behold hang-
ing directly over his head, a mass of granite apparently
ready to totter and fall, and weighing perhaps a million
tons. Terrible and sublime, beyond the imagery of the
most daring poet, are these cliffs ; and while they proclaim
the omnipotent power of God, they at the same time
whisper into the ear of man, that he is but as the moth
which flutters in the noontide air. And yet is it not
enough to fill the heart of man with holy pride and un-
bounded love, to remember that the soul within him shall
have but commenced its existence when all the mountains
of the world shall be consumed as a scroll ?

" ' It is to the Saguenay that I am indebted for one of the
most imposing storm pictures that I ever witnessed. It
had been a most oppressive day, and as I was passing up
the river at a late hour in the afternoon, a sudden gust of
wind came rushing down the stream, causing my Indian
companion to bow as if in prayer, and then to urge our
frail canoe towards a little rocky island upon which we
immediately landed. Soon as we had surmounted our
refuge, the sky was overcast with a pall of blackness which
completely enveloped the cliffs on either side, and gave the
roaring waters a death-like hue. Then broke forth from
above our heads the heavy roar of thunder, and as it
gradually increased in compass, and became more threaten-
ing and impetuous, its vollies were answered by a thousand
echoes which seemed to have been startled from every crag

M 3

166 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

in the wilderness, while flashes of the most vivid lightning
were constantly illuminating the gloomy storm-made
cavern which appeared before us. Down upon his knees
again fell my poor Indian comrade, and while I sat by his
side trembling with terror, the thought actually flew into
my mind that I was on the point of passing the narrow
gateway leading to hell.' "

" What an infernal funk the fellow must have been in,"
said the Baron ; u when he thought he was going to hell."

"And through a narroiv gate too," added the Com-
missioner; "he must have been an obese brute or such
an unscriptural idea would never have occurred to him."

" Pray be silent," said the Priest, continuing to read.
" ' Soon, however, the wind ceased to blow, the thunder to
roar, and the lightning to flash ; and in less than one hour
after its commencement the storm had subsided, and that
portion of the Saguenay was glowing beneath the crimson
ays of the setting sun.

" ' From what I have written, my reader may be impressed
with the idea that this river is incapable of yielding plea-
surable sensations. Sail along its shores on a pleasant day,
when its cliffs are partly hidden in shadow, and covered
with a gauze-like atmosphere, and they will fill your soul
with images of beauty ; or if you would enjoy a still greater
variety, let your thoughts flow away upon the blue smoke
which rises from an Indian encampment hidden in a
dreamy-looking cove ; let your eye follow an eagle sweep-

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 167

ing along his airy pathway near the summit of the cliffs,
or glance across the watery plain, and see the silvery
salmon leaping by hundreds into the air for their insect
food. Here, too, you may always discover a number of
seals bobbing their heads out of water as if watching your
every movement, and on the other hand, a drove of white
porpoises rolling their huge bodies along the waters, ever
and anon spouting a shower of liquid diamonds into the
liir. 0 yes, manifold indeed, and beautiful beyond com-
pare, are the charms of the Saguenay.

" ' The wilderness through which this river runs is of
such a character, that its shores can never be greatly
changed in their external appearance. Only a small por-
tion of its soil can be brought under cultivation, and as its
forests are a good deal stunted, its lumbering resources are
far from being inexhaustible. The wealth which it contains
is probably of a mineral character ; and if the reports I hear
are correct, it abounds in iron ore. That it would yield
an abundance of fine marble, I am certain ; for in passing
up this stream, the observing eye will frequently fall upon
a broad vein of an article as pure as alabaster.

" ( In speaking of the Saguenay, I must not omit to men-
tion its original proprietors, a tribe of Indians, who are
known as the Mountaineers. Of course it is the duty of
my pen to record the fact that, where once flourished a
large nation of brave and heroic warriors, there now exists
a little band of about one hundred families. Judging

M 4

168 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

from what I have heard and seen, the Mountaineers were
once the very flower of this northern wilderness, even as
the Chippewas were once the glory of the Lake Superior
Eegion.

" ' The Mountaineers of the present day are sufficiently
educated to speak a smattering of French ; but they know
nothing of the true Grod, and are as poor in spirit as they
are indigent with regard to the necessaries of life. The
men of this nation are rather short, but well formed, and
the women are beautiful. They are proud in spirit, intel-
ligent, and kind-hearted ; and many of them, it is pleasant
to know, are no longer the victims of the baneful " fire-
water." For this blessing they are indebted to the Eomish
priesthood, which fact I record with great pleasure. The
Mountaineers are a particularly honest people, and great
friends to the stranger white man. They are also distin-
guished for their expertness in hunting, and take pleasure
in recounting the exploits of their forefathers.' "

Here the Priest ceased reading, and laying down the
book exclaimed, " I have never read so many inaccuracies
and mistatements in the same number of words, as are
contained in this last paragraph. First, the worthy Yankee
calls this tribe of Indians ' Mountaineers,' which is not the
translation of the word Montagnais, nor is it descriptive of
the localities which they inhabit, for they dwell chiefly in
the great valleys to the northward of the Saguenay.
Secondly, he states in the same sentence that they are

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 169

e proud in spirit,' and 'poor in spirit;' thirdly, he says
' they know nothing of the true God,' whereas in the very
next sentence he states that ( they are no longer victims
to the baneful fire-water,' and that * they owe this bless-
ing to the Eomish priesthood.' Now I ask, is it likely that
the Eoman Catholic priesthood would teach these people
the virtue of temperance, without having also imparted to
them a knowledge of that Grod whose ministers they are,
or that they would exercise the self-denial of the Christian
without any knowledge of Christianity ? But there is no
occasion to ask or to answer these questions, when we visit
the rivers Jeremy, Groodbout, and Mingan we shall see
them in hundreds attending public worship in their
churches at these places, churches which have been built for
them, and are maintained by the Hudson's Bay Company.

" I remember that on my first visit to the Eiver Grood-
bout, in going through the Hudson's Bay Company's store
there, I observed a large number of old hats and old shoes,
whilst everything else was spic and span new. In answer
to my inquiry respecting this collection of coverings for
the head and its antipodes, the very obliging store-keeper
informed me, that they were provided and kept for the
purpose of lending them to the squaws when they were
about to attend prayers in their church.

"He goes on to say, 'that they are sufficiently educated
to speak a smattering of French.' Now the fact is that
they all read and write, in proof of which I can state that

170 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

to my own knowledge a petition from them was presented
in 1849, to the Parliament assembled in Montreal, by J.
C. Tache, Esq., M.P.P., the member for Eimouski. This
petition was written or scored with a style on a piece of
birch bark about two feet square, and addressed in
the Montagnais idiom to <Les grands Bourgeois du
Grouvernment.' There was, attached to the petition, a
translation of it in French, in which they excused them-
selves for having made use of ( Le papier des sauvages.'
In their writing they make use of the form of printing
types, as shown in the following Christian names,

Piel . . . Pierre.

Planchois . . . Francois.

Grlegloile . . . Gregoire.

They have no E nor no F in their idiom, the L takes the
place of K and P of the F."

"Well now, Bishop," said the Baron, "that's enough
about your dirty Indians, what does the Yankee say about
salmon fishing in the tributaries of the Saguenay ? "

" Why," replied the Priest, " his accuracy in the above
instance is but a poor guarantee for his veracity on that
subject, but hear and judge for yourself. 'The lithe,
wild and beautiful salmon,' says he, e pays an annual visit
to all the tributaries of the St. Lawrence, lying between
Quebec and Bic Island. ' '

" Aye, and to all the tributaries far below Bic Island
too," interrupted the Captain.

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TEIBUTAEIES. 171

" f But he is most abundant on the north shore, and in
those streams which are beyond the jurisdiction of civilisa-
tion. He usually makes his appearance about the 20th of
May, and continues in season for two months. Nearly all
the streams in this region abound in water falls, but those
are seldom found which the salmon does not surmount in
his s excelsior ' pilgrimage, and the stories related of his leaps
are truly wonderful. His weight is commonly about fifteen
pounds, but he is sometimes taken weighing full forty
pounds. The common mode of taking is with a stationary
net, which is set just on the margin of the river at low
water. It is customary with the salmon to ascend the
St. Lawrence as near the shore as possible, and their run-
ning time is when the tide is high ; the consequence is,
that they enter at one tide, and are taken out at another,
and it is frequently the case, that upwards of 300 are taken
at one time.' "

"What does the fellow mean," said the Captain, by
"entering the net at one tide and being taken out at
another ? "

" I don't know," said the Commissioner, " except it be
an awkward mode of communicating the fact that they
become entangled by their gill covers in the meshes of
the net, while the tide is high, and that they are taken
out dead, by the fishermen, at low water."

The Priest continued to read.

" s The Indian mode of taking them is with the spear,

172 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

by torch-light. Two Indians generally enter a canoe, and
while one paddles it noiselessly along, the other holds
forth the light — which attracts the attention of the fish,
and causes them to approach their enemy — who pierces
them with the cruel spear. This mode of taking the
salmon is to be deprecated; but the savage must live/
and has no other means for catching them.' "

" The Yankee is right there," said the Captain ; " constant
spearing will destroy any river, for there is nothing the
salmon have such a fear and horror of as the taste or smell
of blood. You remember, Parson, when we were at the
Mingan, and that one of our party went out spearing on
one single night, that the run of the fish ceased, and with
it our sport for the season."

66 1 remember it well," replied the Priest, " and there
are few things about which fishermen ought to be more
careful, than allowing their servants to clean the fish they
have killed in the stream, or to throw their offal into it,
for it is a fact well known, that the slightest tinge of
blood, or the smallest portion of intestines, will alarm a
whole shoal of salmon, and send them running back in
terror to the sea. The servants of the Hudson's Bay
Company are well aware of this, and at all their fishing
stations you will find that the place at which they clean
the fish is at some distance from the river, and that they
invariably dig a hole in which they deposit scrupulously
all the offal.

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TEIBUTAEIES. 173

" But our author goes on to say : f My first salmon
expedition of the season was to the St. Margaret Eiver. I
had two companions with me, one an accomplished fly-
fisher of Quebec, and the other, the principal man of
Tadousac, a lumber manufacturer. We went in a gig-boat
belonging to the latter, and having started at nine o'clock,
we reached our place of destination by twelve. We found
the river uncommonly high and a little rily. We made a
desperate effort, however, and threw the line about three
hours, capturing four salmon, only one of which it was my
privilege to take. He was a handsome fellow, weighing
seventeen pounds, and in good condition ; he afforded my
companions a good deal of fun, and placed me in a
peculiar position. He had taken the hook when I was
wading in swift water up to my middle, and as soon as he
discovered his predicament, he made a sudden wheel, and
started down the stream. My rod bent nearly double, and
I saw that I must allow him all the line he wanted ; and
having only 300 feet on my reel, I found it necessary to
follow him with all speed. In doing so, I lost my footing
and was swept by the current against a pile of logs ; mean-
time my reel was in the water, and whizzing away at a
tremendous rate. The log upon which I depended hap-
pened to be in a balancing condition, and when I at-
tempted to surmount it, it plunged into the current, and
floated down the stream, having your humble servant
astride at one end, and clinging to it with all his might.

174 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Onward went the salmon, the log, and the fisherman.
Finally the log found its way into an eddy of the river,
and while it was swinging about, as if out of mere devilry,
I left it, and fortunately reached the shore. My life
having been spared, I was more anxious than ever to take
the life of the salmon which had caused my ducking, and
so I held aloft the rod, and continued down the stream,
over an immense number of logs and rocks, which seem to
have been placed there for my especial botheration. On
coming in sight of my fish, I found him in still water,
with his belly turned upward, and completely drowned. I
immediately drew him on a sandbank near by, and while
engaged in the reasonable employment of drying my
clothes, my brother fishermen came up to congratulate me
upon my success, but laughing in the meantime most
heartily. The lumber merchant said that the log I had
been riding belonged to him, and it was his intention to
charge me one shilling from the rift where I had hooked
the salmon to the spot where I had landed him, which
was in full view of the Saguenay ; and my Quebec friend
remarked, that he knew the people of Yankee-land had a
queer way of doing things, but he was not acquainted with
their peculiar mode of taking salmon.' "

" Well," said the Commissioner, " that is about as
romantic an account of the death of a fish, winding up with
as dreary a pleasantry as I ever listened to."

"Yes," added the Baron, "and besides it gives us

THE SAGUENAY AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 175

literally no account of the fishing in the Saguenay's tribu-
taries as the Priest promised."

" My dear friend," replied the patient Priest, " I never
promised to tell you anything about the tributaries of the
Saguenay, for I have never fished them. There are but two,
as I am informed, in which there is any salmon-fishing,
the St. Marguerite and Petit Saguenay ; of the former I
have given you Mr. Lanman's account, and of the latter
I know nothing, save that salmon are killed there, and
that Mr. Price has extensive saw mills upon it."

CHAPTEE IX.

THE ESQUEMAIN.

"Solitude is sweet only in the vicinity of great cities."

BEBNAKDIN ST. PIERRE.

" Miscenda et alternanda sunt solitudo et frequentia." — SENECA.

179

CHAP. XL

THE ESQUEMAIN.

OU have been at the
River Esquemain,
Bishop," said the
Baron. "What sort
of place is it, and
how far is it from
this?"

" The Esque-
main," replied the
Priest, " is just
thirty miles below Tadousac, and a beautiful stream it is, or
rather, it was, as I have narrated to you " — in the 5th
chapter of this book. (( The American writer from whom I
have so largely quoted on the subject of the Saguenay,
speaking of this river says, ' It is a cold, clear, and rapid
stream, abounding in rapids and deep pools. At its mouth
is located a saw mill, but its water-works are so managed as
not to interfere with the salmon. The fish of this stream
ascend to a great distance, and, though rather small, are
exceedingly abundant.' "

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180 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

" I have killed as heavy salmon in the Esquemain as in
any other river in Canada," said the Commissioner.

" So have I," added the Priest, " except when I once
went there after the erection of the water-works, which
this gentleman says do not interfere with the fish, but
which I found to present an impassable barrier to their
ascending the river, and then I killed only two or three ;
but I saw the little urchins from the newly created village
stabbing the unfortunate fish with common two-pronged
steel table forks, as they leaped upon the apron of the
dam in their endeavours to reach the upper pools."

" f The best fishing,' proceeds the American, 6 is at the
foot of the waterfall, which forms a sheet of foam, about
one mile above the mouth. My Quebec friend accom-
panied me to this place, and though we only threw the fly
about six hours, — three in the evening and three in the
morning, — yet we killed thirteen salmon without losing a
single line, and with the loss of only three flies.' "

" He to Moses!" exclaimed the Commissioner : " you and
I have fished the river, Bishop, in its best days, before any
dam or saw-mill defiled its beautiful waters, and we never
did as much as this fellow says he did."

" I will not deem him completely unworthy of credit on
that account," replied the Priest, " for the fishing in all
our Canadian rivers is most uncertain. For example, you
and I have often fished the Groodbout, and I do not think
either of us have ever killed more than five or six fish in a

SPOET AT THE ESQUEMAIN. 181

day; and there is the Captain, who may in some degree be
denominated our pupil, and who with his own rod played
and landed forty-two salmon and grilse in two half days."

" It's true," said the Captain ; " and the two friends who
were with me on that occasion had also very excellent sport."

" I remember," added the Priest, " that one of the best
apparent morning's sport we had at the Esquemain, was
on the occasion of our first meeting the Captain on a fishing
cruise. The Commissioner and I had pushed our cutter
up the river to very near where the bridge crosses the
stream, anchoring her there, and supporting her at low
water with crutches, then providing ourselves with comfort-
able quarters in the immediate vicinity of the fishing
ground. Here we remained for three or four days, during
which we had very fair sport, until on the morning to which
I allude, upon going on deck about five o'clock we perceived
a schooner at anchor to the eastward of us, and a bell tent
pitched on an island close adjoining. Figures were
moving about the tent, which our glasses told us were
those of fishermen, a fact which tended to expedite our
movements towards the favourite pool. Upon arriving
there our very worthy friend and Captain, Vaughan, per-
ceived that there was a net set in its southern side, from
which, having drawn it ashore, he drew five fine salmon.
In the meantime the Commissioner and I plied our rods,
and soon had three noble fish stretched on the green
grass, when Vaughan came to me telling me that the other

N 3

182 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

party was coming up, and that it was a murder the five
fish were marked by the twine of the net, as, if they were
not so, it would appear that they had all been taken by the
rod. Upon this I very quietly scored the whole eight fish
across with my knife, and set to fishing immediately. By
this time our friends the Captain and John Cayley were close
upon us, and just as they arrived, I was fortunate enough
to hook another splendid fish, which I killed in their sight,
and scored with my knife as I had done to the others.
Seeing which, no doubt entered their minds but that we
had killed the whole nine with ' our fiery-browns. It was
some months before we undeceived them. The Yankee
thus proceeds with his narration.

" 6 Owing to the bushy shores of the stream, we were com-
pelled to fish standing upon boulders, located in its centre ;
and whenever we hooked a fish, there was no alternative
but to plunge into the current and trust to fortune. For
some unaccountable reason — of course it could not have
been our fault — we lost more than half of those we hooked.
But it was worth a moderate fortune to see the magnificent
leaps which the fish performed, not only when they took
the fly, but when they attempted to escape. There was
not one individual that did not give us a race of at least half
a mile.' "

"Well, that is a whopper,'' said the Commissioner ; "the
entire distance from the pool under the fall to the bridge
is not a quarter of a mile. But go on, Bishop."

BLACK PESTS. 183

The Priest read on. " ( The largest taken during this
expedition was killed by my companion, and caused more
trouble than all his other prizes. Not only did the fellow
attempt to clear himself by stemming the foam of a
rapid, and rubbing his nose against a rock, to break the
hook, but he also swept himself completely round a large
boulder, poked his head into a net, and ran, with the speed
of lightning to the extreme end of his line. It took my
friend forty minutes to land this salmon, and I assure you
he was particularly pleased when he found that his fish
weighed one pound more than the largest I had taken.
The fact was, our rods were almost precisely alike in length
and strength, and as two countries were represented in our
persons, the strife between us was quite desperate. I will
acknowledge that the Canada gentleman took the largest
salmon, but the States angler took them in the greatest
number. Notwithstanding all the fine sport that we enjoyed
on the Esquemain, I am compelled to state that it was more
than counterbalanced by the sufferings we endured from
the black fly and musquito. The black-fly is about half
as large as the common house-fly, and though it bites you
only in the day time, they are as abundant in the air as the
sand upon the sea shore, and venomous in an uncommon
degree. The musquito of this region is an uncommonly
gaunt, long-legged, and hungry creature, and his howl is
peculiarly horrible. We had been almost devoured by the
black-flies daring the afternoon, and soon as darkness

184 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

came we secured a couple of beds in a Frenchman's house,
and, as we tumbled in, congratulated ourselves upon a little
comfortable repose. It was an exceedingly sultry night,
and though we were both in a complete fever from the fly
poison circulating in our veins, the heat excelled the fever,
and our bodies were literally in a melting condition. We
endeavoured to find relief by lying upon the bare floor,
with no covering but a single sheet, and this arrange-
ment might have answered had it not been for the flood of
musquitoes which poured into the room, as one of us
happened to open a window to obtain fresh air. Every
spot on our bodies which the flies had left untouched, was
immediately settled upon by these devils in miniature.
They pierced the very sheets that covered us, and sucked
away at our blood without any mercy. Unwilling to
depart this life without one effort more to save it, we then
dressed ourselves and sauntered into the open air. We
made our way towards a pile of lumber, near the saw mill,
and without a particle of covering endeavoured to obtain
a little sleep, but the insect hounds soon found us out,
and we bolted for another place. Our course now lay
towards the rude bridge which spans the Esquemain, just
above the mill. Our intentions at the time, though not
uttered aloud, I verily believe were of a fearful character.
On reaching the bridge, however, a refreshing breeze sprang
up and we enjoyed a brief respite from our savage enemies.
We now congratulated ourselves upon our good fortune,

A MISERABLE NIGHT. 185

and had just concluded to be quite happy, when we dis-
covered a number of Indians on the river, spearing salmon
by torch-light, and as it was after midnight, and the
heathens were spearing on our fishing ground, we mourn-
fully concluded that our morning's sport was at an end.
But while in the very midst of this agreeable mood of
mind a lot of skylarking musquitoes discovered our retreat,
and we were again besieged. We now endeavoured to find
relief on board the boat which had brought us from the
Saguenay, and here it was that we spent the two last
hours of that most miserable night. Though not exactly in
a fitting condition to throw the fly with any degree of com-
fort, we made an effort after salmon in the morning, and
succeeded in killing a portion of the thirteen already
mentioned. That we enjoyed a good breakfast which we
had prepared for our especial benefit, and that we departed
from the Esquemain as soon as possible, are facts which I
consider self-evident.'

" The only part of this story which I do not believe to
be overdrawn is that which relates to the anguish inflicted
by the musquitoes and black-flies," said the Priest.

" I perfectly agree with you," added the Commissioner ;
" once their poison is absorbed into the system it produces
not only local pain and intolerable itching, but a depression
of spirits and despondency which can only be compared to
the last stage of hypochondriasis, and any attempt to alleviate
these painful effects by artificial stimulants, such as wine,

186 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

brandy or beer, is only attended, by a fearful aggravation
of them."

" Let us alone about the musquitoes," said the Captain.
" I have been reading a book which, if I were an Irishman
would make a repealer of me ; but as I have not that
honour it will tend to increase my admiration and respect
for the Irish character. It is entitled ' The Eise and Fall of
the Irish Nation,' by Sir Jonah Barrington. Just listen to
his description of a pet of his, one Beauchamp Bagenal,
( His person was fine, his manners open and generous, his*
spirit high, and his liberality profuse. During a tour on
the continent he performed a variety of feats which
endeared him to his countrymen. He fought a prince,
jilted a princess, made the Doge of Venice drunk, carried
off a duchess from Madrid, scaled the walls of a convent in
Italy, escaped from the Inquisition at Lisbon, and ran a
celebrated fencing master through the body at Paris.' "

" He certainly was a most respectable man," added the
Baron ; " but I have never yet met an Irishman, who had
not something similar in his history, or who did not appear
to aspire to something of similarity with it in his character.''

" You are both exceedingly complimentary to my country
and countrymen," said the Priest, " but I would have you
to know that Sir Jonah Barrington is considered in Ireland
an authority just as reliable in matters of history, as Mr.
Charles Lanman is in Canada, on the subject of salmon
fishing."

STOEY OF A GOLD EING. 187

" Come, Bishop, draw it mild; you can tell some
whoppers yourself about fishing. What was that story
you told me, at the sandbank in the Manitou last summer,
about a salmon and a gold ring ? " said the Captain.

" I told you a plain unvarnished fact," replied the Priest,
ee and there are persons alive, though it is long ago, who can
substantiate every word of it."

" Come, Bishop, let us have the story ; the Captain is
querulous to-day with this east wind, and we are not all
such infidels as he."

"Well," said the Priest, " it is no such wonderful matter
after all ; and if the Captain will promise to hold his tongue
while I am speaking, and to retie this dark claret for me,
I'll tell it to you." The Captain having nodded assent, and
unlocked the box containing his portable stock of silks,
colours, wax, gut, feathers, &c. &c., the Priest proceeded
as follows.

"On the 6th of August 1834, I was on a visit, with Mr.
and the Hon. Mrs. Drew, at a lodge which they occupied
near Doonass, on the banks of the Shannon, and on the
morning of that day went salmon fishing with the Hon.
William Massey, the brother of Mrs. Drew, who was anxious
to get a fish for Mrs. Cuffe Kelly, with whom we were to
dine, to meet a party given in honour of Miss Crosbie of
Ballyheigh Castle in the county of Cork, to whom the said
William Massey was about to be married. Well, we fished
and we fished, we changed our flies, and in every direction

188 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

we thrashed the river, but not a single rise did we get, not
a single fin did we meet, not a fish did we see; and
about four o'clock getting perfectly disgusted were giving up
in despair, when we saw Frank Drew and Major Massey
walking towards us hastily. They came to know what we
had done, and to inform us that upon our efforts depended
the character of Mrs. Kelly's dinner, for that by some most
unfortunate mistake the fishmonger had neglected to send
the turbot she had ordered from Dublin, and that therefore
unless we could produce a salmon all was lost.

" Upon this I handed my rod to Frank Drew, and
William Massey gave his to his brother the Major; we pushed
the cot across the stream, and they fished Lacka, the most
beautiful of pools, in vain, and then we all resolved to
give up. The river is broad at this place and we had to
cross it : Drew having returned me my rod, I let out a long
line trailing it after the cot. When we were just at shore,
and I was winding up, I felt a feeble pull, and upon
bending my rod found I had hooked a fish, which showed
little sport, and was soon brought to the gaff, proving to
be a ten pound fish, lank, and in poor condition. Bad as
the fish was we were glad to get him for the peace of poor
Mrs. Kelly's mind, and sent him forthwith to her cook,
while we went to dress.

" I should have mentioned before that, some two or three
years previous to this occurrence, William Massey's wife, in
crossing the Shannon, near the spot where I hooked this sal-

STORY OF A GOLD KING. 189

mon, in a fog, was lost, with her footman and two boat-men.
Seven o'clock came, and William Massey having handed
his bride elect to table, sat at the head of the hospitable
board around which were assembled twenty people, and
proceeded to carve the salmon which we had so recently
killed. Upon placing the fish knife near the gills to take
off the first cut of the head, it grated upon some unyield-
ing substance, which prevented his making the proper
incision in the fish, whereupon he took a fork and drew
out from a bed, which it had formed for itself beneath the
gills, a solid gold finger ring, with the word "pure"
stamped upon the inside of it. It was handed about as a
curiosity, and it was whispered at the table that it was one
of the rings of the former Mrs. Massey ; but this her husband
denied aloud ; and eventually his sister, the Honourable
Mrs. Drew, took possession of it, and I doubt not has it
safe at Drewsborough at this moment."

"How the deuce could it have come there?" said the
Baron.

" That's not easily accounted for," replied the Priest.
" Still I think it can be readily imagined that the same
description of fish, which is found in almost every stream
which they frequent, to rise at and attempt to swallow a
showy tassel made of tinsel and bright feathers, should rush
with similar greediness at a glittering gold ring, pushed
rapidly along the course of the river by the impetuosity of
the water, and that being unable to swallow it, or to eject it

190 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

from the gills, with which it had probably become en-
tangled, it gradually by its pressure formed the cavity in
the salmon's throat, from whence William Massey ex-
tracted it."

" You are dry to-day, Priest," replied the Baron.

" If I am," said the Priest, " it's what you appear always
to be, if we are to judge from the frequency of your drink-
ing. I have just met an account of a temperance family,
in an American newspaper, of which you would have made
an excellent member : listen to it."

" Joe Harris was a whole-souled merry fellow, and very
Jbnd of his glass. After living in New Orleans for many
years, he came to the conclusion of visiting an old uncle
away up in Massachusets, whom he had not seen for a long
time. Now there is a difference between New Orleans
and Massachusets, in regard to the use of ardent spirits,
and when Joe arrived there and found all the people run
mad about temperance, he felt bad, thinking, with the
old song, that ( keeping the spirits up by pouring the
spirits down ' was one of the best ways to make time pass,
and began to fear, indeed, that he was in a pickle. But
on the morning after his arrival, the old man and his sons
being out at work, his aunt came to him and said, ' Joe,
you have been living in the south, and no doubt are in the
habit of taking a little to drink about eleven o'clock. Now
I keep some here for medicinal purposes ; but let no one
know it, as my husband wants to set the boys a good

A TEMPERANCE FAMILY. 191

example.' Joe promised, and thinking he would get no
more that day, took, as he expressed it ( a buster.' After
a while he walked out to the stable, and who should he
meet but his uncle. s Well, Joe,' says he, ' I expect you
are accustomed to drink something in New Orleans, but
you find us all temperate here, and for the sake of my
sons, I don't let them know that I have any brandy about,
but I just keep a little out here for my rheumatism.
Will you accept a little ? ' Joe signified his readiness, and
took another big horn. Then continuing his walk, he
came to where the boys were hauling the rails. After
conversing a while, one of his cousins said, ' Joe, I expect
you would like to have a drink, and as the old folks are
down on liquor, we keep some out here to help us on with
our work.' Out came the bottle, and down they sat, and
he says that, oy the time he went home to dinner, he was
as tight as he could well be, and all from visiting a tem-
perance family."

CHAPTER X.

THE PETITE KOMAIKE. — SAULT DE MOUTON. — POET NEUF
AKD BEKSIMIS.

" Here lies John Shaw,
Attorney at law.
When he died,
The Devil cried
Give us your paw,
John Shaw,
Attorney at law."

MOOKE, not HANNAH.

195

CHAP. X.

THE PETITE ROMAINE. — SAULT DE MOUTON — PORT NEUF AND
BERSIMIS.

ON'T tell him, Bishop, where
you found that epitaph.
Every one ought to have
read the book, as a beautiful
biography of Ireland's greatest
poet."

" I won't tell him, as you
desire it ; but I trust you have
no objection to my reciting
another epitaph, and telling
him where he will find it."

"Not the least; go on," said the Commissioner.
" Well, then, in the parish burial ground of Pewsey, in
Dorsetshire, England, there is a tomb on which is in-
scribed —

" ' Here lies the body of

Lady O'Loony,

Great niece of Burke,

Commonly called " The Sublime."

o 2

" Here lies John Shaw,
Attorney at law.
When he died,
The Devil cried
Give us your paw,
John Shaw,
Attorney at law."

MOORE, not HANNAH.

195

CHAP. X.

THE PETITE KOMAINE. — SAULT DE MOUTON — PORT NEUF AND
BEKSIMIS.

ON'T tell him, Bishop, where
you found that epitaph.
Every one ought to have
read the book, as a beautiful
biography of Ireland's greatest
poet."

" I won't tell him, as you
desire it ; but I trust you have
no objection to my reciting
another epitaph, and telling
him where he will find it."

" Not the least ; go on," said the Commissioner.
" Well, then, in the parish burial ground of Pewsey, in
Dorsetshire, England, there is a tomb on which is in-
scribed —

" ' Here lies the body of

Lady O'Loony,

Great niece of Burke,

Commonly called " The Sublime."

o 2

196 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

She was bland, passionate, and religious.

Also
She painted in water colours.

And
Sent several things to the

Exhibition.

She was first cousin to
Lady Jones

And

" Of such is the kingdom of Heaven."
Amen.'

" There is another in the churchyard of Moreton-in
Marsh, which speaks thus :

" ' Here lie the bones of Eichard Lawton,

Whose death, alas ! was strangely brought on.

Trying one day his corns to mow off,

The razor slipped and cut his toe off:

His toe, or rather what it grew to,

An inflammation quickly flew to,

Which took, alas ! to mortifying,

And was the cause of Richard's dying.'

K A correspondent of The Builder gives some instances
of curious epitaphs, one from Dorchester, Oxfordshire, is as
follows : —

" ' Here lies the body of

* * * *

" ' And when he died he owed
Nobody nothing.'

" Another from Bideford, Devonshire : —

" ' The wedding day appointed was,
And wedding clothes provided,
And when the day arrive it did,
She sickened and she dieded.'

STRANGE EPITAPHS. 197

" From Ulverstone : —

" ' Here lies my wife,

Here lies she,
Hallelujah,
Hallelujee.'

" From Don caster: —

" ' Here lies two brothers, by misfortune surrounded,
One died of his wounds, and the other was drownded.'

" I cannot recollect where I saw the following, but I can
answer for its being genuine : —

" ' Sacred to the memory
Of Miss Martha Grwynne,
She was so very pure within,
She burst the outward shell of sin,
And hatched herself a cherubim.'

" The present Bishop of Quebec, the Right Reverend Gr.
J. Mountain, mentioned to me one which he had himself
seen in some burial ground in England, of which I forget
the name.

Here lies

###*##

She had two bad legs and a very bad cough,
But it was the bad legs that carried her off.'

" These are certainly strange and grotesque instances ;
but I admire ' John Shaw ' most."

" Come, come, leave off this nonsense ; we have now a
nice breeze, and shall shortly be abreast of the Petite
Romaine, and must determine whether we shall land there

O 3

198 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

or not. Can you tell us anything about it, Parson ? " said
the Commissioner.

" I cannot," replied the Parson, " except that the en-
trance to it is so encumbered with shoals, sandbanks, and
mud, that few schooners venture into it. In fact the same
may be said of the Sault de Mouton, and the Port Neuf
rivers. At the former — the Sault de Mouton — I was once
for a few hours, and killed a multitude of trout, but do
not think it looks like a salmon stream, in fact I doubt
very much whether the salmon could surmount the falls,
which are upwards of eighty feet high, and very near the
sea. Besides which there is no safe anchorage near it, and
as you appear to be impatient to flesh your maiden rods
with fish, I would recommend you to proceed directly to
the Bersimis."

" What do you know of the Bersimis, Bishop ? " said the
Baron.

"Nothing personally," replied the Priest. "But
I have here a letter from an excellent angler and a very
honest man, who made an excursion there in the year
1847, some extracts from which may not prove unsatis-
factory. But before I read them, pray turn to what Bayfield
says of the entrance to this river ; as, in my opinion, a river
that is difficult and dangerous to get into, and conse-
quently difficult and dangerous to get out of, loses many
of its attractions."

" ( Bersimis Kiver," read the Commissioner, " ' enters the

THE BERSIMIS EIVEE. 199

sea to the eastward, and one mile and three-quarters north
east from the south extremity of the point of the same
name. The south side of entrance of the river, for more
than three quarters of a mile, is of low and bare sand.
The opposite point of entrance is also of sand, and bears
north-north-west, at the distance of rather more than a mile
from the south point ; but this wide mouth of the river is
closed by sands at low water, with the exception of a very
narrow channel. The river within, for the first three miles,
is vide and full of sand shoals.

(: ( The bar is of sand, which dries in parts at low water,
and shifts frequently, being completely exposed to
soutierly and easterly gales, it extends nearly a mile and
a quarter to the eastward of the south point of entrance.
Directions for entering the river must therefore be use-
less, "out it may be as well to remark, that within the bar
the ciannel is always close to the south point of entrance,
and ieeps on that side through the wide part within, with
a depth of nine feet at low water. The depth that could
be cairied in over the bar, in the month of July, was six
feet it low water, and from thirteen to eighteen feet at
high water, according as it might be neap or spring
tides.

" ' This river discharges a great volume of water, es-
pecially in the spring of the year, and the water is fresh
enough for drinking, when the tide is out, two miles
within its entrance,

o 4

200 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

" 6 The Bersimis Kiver is navigable to the falls, which are
thirty or forty feet highj and over granitic rocks. These
falls are distant thirty miles north-west, three quarters
north in a direct line from the south point of entrance,
but the distance is nearly forty miles by following the
windings of the river. The banks of the river are high
and precipitous, being either of granite or cliffs of sand
and gravel over clay. The basins and valleys between the
hills are rilled with these last named deposits, which sup-
port a heavy growth of trees of the pine and spruce
species. There is good timber to be met with occasionally.
The breadth of the river varies from 100 to 300 fathoms,
and its depth is usually from 2 to 5 fathoms, but 2
fathoms is as much as could be carried up to the fo*t of
the falls.

a ( * * * * Boats can row up this river to the foot
of the falls.'"

"Well, all that is good enough in its way," sail the
Baron ; " but what we want to ascertain is, whether there is
salmon fishing to be had in this river." /

" All the information I can give you upon the subject is
to be found in the letter which I hold in my hand ; "but it
is not confined to an account of the Bersimis. Howerer, as
it speaks of another river or two which we shall probably
visit, I think it may not be uninteresting to read the whole
of it ; so here it is," said the Priest.

THE GOODBOUT RIVER. 201

" Riviere du Loup.

July 31st, 1847.

(( My dear Bishop,

" In the first place I must thank you for your kind
attention in writing and forwarding the papers, which we
were hungry for, when we arrived, I can assure you, which
happy event took place last evening, when we were fairly
tired out ; but this morning we feel ourselves as fresh as
ever, and ready to start again. I will now give you a sort of
precis of our proceedings, which, as far as sport is con-
cerned, have been satisfactory.

" 1st. We left this place on the 14th of June, and sailed
direct for the Groodbout, where we arrived on the evening
of the third day, having had light baffling winds. We
found that the fish had commenced running on the 7th,
that is that Francois — the Maitre de Peche — killed his
first salmon in the nets on the 7th ; last year he killed his
first fish on the 1st of June. He informed us that the fish
had not yet reached our old pool, en haut, as he had men
on the look out, having let the fishing to two men from
Eimouski. We therefore fished the large pool below the
first rapid, where the portage commences, and killed
several very fine salmon, 11, 12J, 13lbs. weight, my own

flies — red ones — telling handsomely. Mr. C went to

the upper pool and fished it all day, only killing one
salmon.

" The musquitoes and black-flies at the lower pool were

202 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

really dreadful, and as there was no temptation to encamp
at our old ground, the fish not yet having run up, and Mr.
Comeau represented the Trinity River in such favourable
colours, we thought we would go down there, fish that
river, and return to encamp. We tried the Trinity, and a
prettier river you never saw ; it was also full of fish ; we
could see thousands of them in the first large pool, jump-
ing and plunging in all directions, but not one of the

rascals would look at a fly. T hooked one, — outside I

believe, — but lost him. I went up the river to the rapids,
fancying that we were too near the sea, but met with no
success whatever ; so we agreed at once to return to our old
quarters, and back we came. •

" Taking our tents, &c., we started for the upper pool
and had the evening's fishing, from 5 o'clock till 8 on the
29th, when our numbers stood as follows : —

13 Salmon

. . . . 6 „
. . . . 2 „

average weight 11 pounds.

" We fished next day, all day, and in the evening we
stood again,

S n .... 13 salmon

T d . . . . 11 „

J s . . . . 3 „

THE BEESIMIS RIVER. 2C3

four or five of which were 131bs., the rest between 10
and 11 pounds.

" The morning fishing of Thursday was not very good.
T— - killed three fine fish, but by this time the flies and
musquitoes had swelled us up to such a degree that we
were absolutely compelled to give in, and go down to the
ship to get well, as we could neither see nor hear, and we
were all in a fever, particularly as we did not drink cold
water. We went down to the vessel and Mr. Comeau
reported such wonders of the Bersimis River, that we
determined to try it, particularly as we were obliged, in
self-defence, to get to sea. We accordingly sailed next
morning, crossing over for supplies to Matane, where we
were windbound for two or three days,, killing, however,
quantities of codfish. We left for the Bersimis after this
rest, and crossed the gulf, anchoring at night in Sheldrake
River, and starting again in the morning, encountered a
very heavy blow from S.E., which we were compelled to run
before, when, passing the Bersimis, we ran for shelter to
the south shore and anchored at night under Barnaby
Island near Rimouski. I consider from what has since
occurred that we were in great danger during all that day.
The sea was very heavy indeed — very; and the vessel behaved
well ; however, at Rimouski we were becalmed for a few
days, but at last having got a slant of wind we crossed
over and ran into Bersimis River, a fine and beautiful
stream. We hired three canoes, manned by Indians, and

204 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

started in high spirits for the falls, forty miles from the
mouth, with full hope and expectation of making up our
bag to a hundred salmon, having up to this period killed
seventy- eight. At four o'clock in the morning of the 13th
of July the canoes were alongside, and away we went,
pulling up the river for about nine miles, which from
thence assumed a bolder character, and as we went on
increased in beauty and grandeur every pull. Some of
the cliffs were perfectly beautiful. We encamped at about
thirty miles from the mouth of the river upon an island,
dined, and left early in the morning, arriving at the falls
about ten o'clock, where we beheld the most beautiful
pools and sweeps and salmon beds you can imagine ; but
what was our horror at beholding, instead of salmon, that
at least 500 seals had taken possession, and from that
moment we despaired. We fished, however, but in vain ;
and after spending the day in fruitless efforts and unavail-
ing regrets, and muttering curses loud and deep, and after
slaughtering a dozen of the poor beasts with our rifles, we
started again for the vessel, running down the river in a
day. Here was a quandary. It was time for us to go
back, and we were all anxious to do so, but then how to
make up the number of our salmon? At length we decided
to run back to the Groodbout and give the pool a last fish-
ing. We left accordingly with morning, and at eight
o'clock were safely moored and handing Franyois a glass of
wine. Next morning we went up to the pool, but alas, my

THE BEST FLIES. 205

friend, the lost time could not be regained. The small fry
had taken possession, and our success was very indifferent.
We found it was no use wasting time ; the fish were there
but would not take at all : now and then we caught a grilse.
So we started, numbering only eighty-four salmon — one
queer gaffer says eighty-five ; but by all our note-books
we cannot make more than eighty-four. This is very pro-
voking, as there is not the slightest doubt that if we
had remained at the Groodbout we should have numbered
at least 150 fish ; but really we could not stand the flies.
What shall we do another year ?

" And now about flies. You will remember that we had
a lot of CTShaughnessy's make and a few of Martin Kelly's :
the best were my own.. I have no hesitation in saying
that my own were out and out the best ; they are stronger,
do more work, and take better ; but the hooks are not worth
much. O'Shaughnessy's flies tore at once both in hackle
and tinsel, standing no work whatever. My best killing
flies have been red body with dark hackle, topknot tail,
mixed wing and gold tinsel, in fact the f fiery brown.'
Second best, dark claret. The two best days' fishing con-
sumed almost all my bright flies ; now I have none, but I
think I know exactly what to tie for you and myself next
year. I lost some tackle, principally single gut casting lines,
by the fish taking down the rapids. I tried the double and
treble, but do not approve. I shall send for very strong single
gut next year, and use it altogether. I broke the top of

206 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA

jny rod by a heavy salmon taking under the boat in which
I was fishing, and that is the whole amount of my accidents.
I killed the greatest number of fish, and have to thank you
and H. H. K. for all I know of the noblest art in the
world — my number of the eighty-four fish being thirty-
nine : so much for your pupil. But the party all maintain
that I had great luck ! ! ! I never pretended to skill, but I
dare say I shall learn.

"Having determined to leave the Groodbout for the
Kiviere du Loup, we started and ran all night with an
easterly wind, which changed early in the morning to the
west, blowing very hard indeed, and we crossed over in the
hope of reaching Metis. We failed, and ran for Matane,
where our pilot in running over the bar into the river got
frightened, completely lost his head, gave contradictory
orders, played the devil, and ran us ashore on a sandbank
where, in five minutes we were full of water, and the sea
dashing over us in all directions. We got our boat out

and attached a rope to it, and T d and I with the

seamen agreed to try and get on shore, from which we
were distant about sixty yards. We started amongst the
breakers, but the rope would not pay out and our rowlocks
were gone ; so that after several ineffectual attempts to push
to the beach through very heavy breakers with one oar
only, we saw that our only course was to swim for it ; so in
we dashed, and after a pretty severe struggle, the tide

A WEECK. 207

setting outwards, we reached terra firma, more dead than
alive, and cold enough. A boat now put off from shore,
the wind lulling a little, and after a good deal of trouble
she managed to get near enough to take off all the rest of
the party.

"The tide was now making very fast, and we gave
up all idea of saving anything, but to my great astonish-
ment we have saved everything. The watches are damaged,
but all our tackle and bedding and everything were saved.
We had some idea at first that the ship might be brought
in and patched up, but the wind was very strong from the
westward for two days, and the vessel was literally so
rotten that she went bodily to pieces, and nothing now
remains of the poor Shannon but her keel, which remains
upon the sand bar of the river Matane. We have brought
up a part of one of her timbers, which is completely rotten.
It is very lucky for us that the accident happened when
and where it did, as we might have lost our lives had we
been caught in a heavy gale, as I am certain her timbers
would never have stood a pounding sea. Here ends our
adventures, except that we hired a boat and came up in
five days very comfortably.

" I have thus given you a hurried sketch of our proceed-
ings, which you will find somewhat interesting, and trust
that next year we may be together, and in my next letter
will give you my ideas of how that is to be managed. We

•208

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

shall remain here a week and then go to Nahant. I am
glad you taught the Quebeckers how to fish.*

" Yours very sincerely,
« J. S."

* The information in the foregoing letter, with regard to the Bersimis, is
perfectly reliable, but it is right to add that there are two or three tribu-
taries of that noble river, which abound with the heaviest salmon, and are
admirably adapted for fly-fishing.

CHAPTER XI.

SHELDRAKE. — GOODBOUT. — MATANE. — METIS.

" Bear lightly on their foreheads, Time !

Strew roses on their way ;
The young in heart, however old,
That prize the present day.

" I love to see a man forget

His blood is growing cold,

And leap, or swim, or gather flowers,
Oblivious of his gold,

And mix with children in their sport,
Nor think that he is old.

" I love to see the man of care

Take pleasure in a toy ;

I love to see him row or ride,

And tread the grass with joy,
Or throw the circling salmon fly
As lusty as a boy.

" The road of life is hard enough,
Bestrewn with slag and thorn ;

I would not mock the simplest joy
That made it less forlorn,

But fill its evening path with flowers,
As fresh as those of morn."

211

CHAP. XI.

SHELDRAKE. GOODBOUT. MATANE. METIS.

N several occasions, where
it has been my good for-
tune to make excursions
in the gulf of St. Law-
rence. I have fearfully ex-
perienced the great un-
certainty of being able to
calculate upon arriving
at any particular point
within any given time. I left my party at the
Mingan in the year 1852 at about 11 o'clock on a
Sunday morning, and dined in my own house in Quebec
on the following Thursday, whilst my companions, who
followed me, took thirteen days to traverse the same
distance. In 1853 we rattled down to the Mingan harbour
in four days, and when after our season's fishing we had to
retrace our steps, we took twelve long, calm sunshiny days
to accomplish the journey.

It was on this occasion, I believe, that the following

P 2

212 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

verses were composed ; at all events I find them amongst
my memoranda in the handwriting of one of the finest
fellows who composed that happy party.

VEESES AGAINST THE ART OF NAVIGATION.

"Ah sure the greedy wretch is pent
In endless chains of deep damnation,
Who first to plague us did invent
The cursed art of Navigation !

"When to the wind we spread our sails,
Along the pathless ocean strolling,
Crammed in a tub stuck full of nails,
Like Regulus, we die by rolling.

" The race of man, in ancient times,
Were bent on rapine and on slaughter,
But Heaven, in vengeance for their crimes,
Decreed their fate, and sent salt water.

" Of all the heavy judgments passed
On Egypt for her sins renowned,
Salt water was reserved the last,
And Pharaoh and his host were drowned.

" And now that we are turned to fish,
And with the scurvy grown all scaly,
We make for sharks a curious dish,
Whilst overboard we're tumbled daily.

" All you who on the land abide,
Our element to mourn us borrow,
Let fall of tears, a briny tide,
Salt water is the sign of sorrow."

The poor fellow's leave must have expired, and his spirits
been very low, when he gave vent to such despondent abuse

" GINGER." 213

of " The sea, the sea, the deep, deep sea." The association
of ideas — notwithstanding all that Locke says upon the
subject — is a very unaccountable process; at least I cannot
discover any reason why the above verses should have
suggested to my mind the recollection of some others,
which were transmitted to me by my very excellent friend
and erudite companion, Dr. W. Winder, librarian to the
Legislative Assembly, in a letter from which I take the
following extracts.

" I think you will regret to learn that f Ginger of ours ' is
no more." Ginger was a corpulent bandy-legged terrier
who was ever present with W. B. Lindsay, Esq., clerk of the
Commons House of Assembly of Canada. " The poor
fellow, not ( sleeping in his orchard,' but playing in the
Place d'Armes, ' as was his custom in the afternoon,' was
set upon by two large ruffianly Newfoundland dogs, and
literally worried to death by them. Some one suggested
that so faithful a friend as Ginger should not be permitted
to disappear from the scene, without some testimony to his
fame and character. Our Poet Laureate — Spink, I
believe, rejoices in that honourable title — was spoken of
as the proper person to sing the fame of Ginger ; but the
invisible great unknown, though as it seems ever present
Cangan, took the hint, and a few days thereafter Lindsay
received the within imitation of the 24th Ode of Horace,
by Horatius Canganus.

"An amusing incident occurred, I am told, when

p 3

214 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Cangan read his verses to some very literate person.
This wisdom-stricken youth, with great critical acumen,
observed, that the Latin was incorrect if ( Tarn Cari '
meant Tom Carey — for though ' Tarn ' might be Scottice
for Tom — yet 'Cari' would never answer for 'Carey.'
Cangan, although ready to explode with a thundering
guffaw, restrained his feelings with that inimitable tact
for which it is said he is so distinguished, and merely
turned on his heel, and whistled — whether my uncle
Toby's favourite air of ' Lillibullero ' or not, is not stated.
As you may suppose Cangan's name • is more up than ever,
and 'Who's Cangan?' with the occasional emphatic

addition, 'Who the is Cangan?' was frequently

heard resounding through our lobbies."

ODE XXIV.
TO LINDSAY.

" Quis desiderio sit pudor aut modus
Tarn cari capitis." — HOE. Carm. Lib. 1.

Parodied from the version of Dr. Francis. — By CANGAN.

" Why strive we, Lindsay, to conceal
The sorrow we so deeply feel ?
The gushing tear, the sigh repressed,
For trusty Ginger sunk to rest ?
Sweet muse of melting voice and lyre
Melpomene — the strain inspire !
When shall affection so sincere,
Fidelity, the sister fair,

" GINGER. 215

Sagacity, unerring, staid,

And truth in artless guise arrayed,

Among the race of canine kind

An equal to our dinger find?

How did the good, the friendly, mourn,

And pour their sorrows o'er his urn !

But Lindsay, thine the loudest strain,

Yet all thy pungent grief is vain.

In vain do you the Fates implore

Thy faithful Ginger to restore ;

Whom on far other terms they gave, ,

By nature destined to the grave. —

What though you could the lyre command,

And sweep its strings with softer hand

Than Orpheus — whose harmonious song

Once drew the listening trees along,—

Yet ne'er returns the vital state,

The shadowy form to animate.

For when the ghost-compelling god

Shakes o'er his prey his horrid rod,

He will not, lenient, to the breath

Of hope, unbar the gates of death !

'Tis hard ; but mortals must endure

The ills that sorrow cannot cure."

" CANGAN,
"Quebec, llth Dec. 1851."

But what does the kind and patient reader care for Cangan
or Lindsay or Ginger ? Absolutely nothing. He wants to
know what fishing he can have in the Sheldrake, and I
regret that I cannot give him any accurate information on
the subject. That there is such a stream, within ten or
twelve miles west of the Hudson's Bay Company's station
at the G-oodbout, there is no doubt, although it is not
mentioned by Bayfield — and that there are salmon in it

p 4

216 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

admits of no question ; but whether it is a good stream for
the angler's pastime is still an unsolved question, for my
belief is that it has never as yet been visited by any man who
knew the use of a rod and fly. My impression is that this
river is usually, by navigators and voyageurs, called by its
Indian name Obetsie, a salmon stream in the same imme-
diate neighbourhood — with regard to which I can only
give the following extract from the journal of a friend and
brother fisherman kept during the season of 1853 : — " 12th
July. The Canadian fishermen arrived this morning from
the Obetsie, having left off fishing for lack of salmon ; they
say that the take was most unprofitable this year." *

* Since the above was written, I have received from my friend Mr.
George Clerk — a first-rate angler — a letter, from which I take the following
extracts for the information of my readers,

" I know the Obetsie river, and always thought it to be the same as the
Sheldrake. There is, however, a river which I never entered, a few miles
higher up than the Obetsie, which I have slightly examined ; its Indian
name is marked by me as Mastissimi, and it may be the Sheldrake. There
is a large and striking rock at its mouth, about half way between the
Obetsie and Pancras Cove, where there is good anchorage, plenty of fresh
water, but no fishing except for sea-trout."

s< The Obetsie is distant from the Goodbout about four or five leagues ;
its mouth is distinguishable a long way off at low water by an immense
reef of black rocks extending a considerable distance out, making it very
difficult of access for anything drawing more than four or five feet of water.
At high water these rocks are covered."

" Once inside the river, the anchorage is good, but I would advise no one
to attempt the entrance in anything larger than a pilot boat. At the mouth
of the river there is no shelter at all, except in one or two coves for small
boats."

" The Obetsie is an early river, and the salmon cease running up it
sooner than they do in the Goodbout. I was there on the 13th of July,
whilst the latter river was full of fish, but I did not stir a fin in the

THE GOODBOUT. 217

The next salmon river on the northern shore which is
worthy the attention of the angler is the Groodbout. This
stream is, according to Bayfield's admirable sailing direc-
tions, eight miles westward from Point de Monts, and enters
the sea at the extremity of a sandy point, and has a bar of
sand, which extends from the eastern point of entrance to
the distance of nearly half a mile, dries in great part at low
water, and is extremely bold to seaward. There is usually at
low water not more than four or five feet over this bar, on
which a heavy surf very frequently breaks ; there are fifteen
or sixteen feet of water over the bar at high water
spring tides. There is a trading and salmon-fishing post
of the Hudson's Bay Company at this river. It is possible
to anchor on either side of the bar of the Groodbout river,
but too near to the shore to be of general use.

Notwithstanding the low depth of water and the intricacy
of the channel at the entrance, this river is frequented
every summer by schooners drawing eight and nine feet. I
have been frequently there, and never experienced any
difficulty in getting inside to a safe and commodious

Obetsie, from which I conclude that the best time for visiting it must be in
June."

" It looks like a good fishing river. There are some pretty casts in it,
and about a mile up there is a waterfall, but not so high but that, when
the water is large, salmon can surmount it ; at its foot there is a fine pool.
Altogether I should say that to a; party camped at the Groodbout, with plenty
of time and a small boat at their disposal, it is worthy of a visit about the
end of June, but I should not think it is large enough for more than two
rods."

218

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

THE GOODBOUT. 219

anchorage, but have sometimes seen schooners fail to beat
out when the wind blew strong from the west or south-
west.

This I believe to be one of the best rivers in the world
for the angler; of course it varies much in different seasons;
and although I was one of two white men who first threw
a fly upon its upper pools in 1845, and have fished it often
since, it has not been my good fortune to be on its banks
in the seasons when it has been most prolific in salmon.
The last time I fished this river was in 1849, when I
arrived there on the 18th of June, remaining till the 3rd
of July, during which time only twenty-one fish were
killed, — a remarkable contrast to the case of Captain J. M.
Strachan who, two years before, took forty-two salmon in
parts of two days.

The fishing in this stream consists of what are called
the lower and the upper pools ; in the former fish are first
caught, and they continue to afford the best sport as long
as the water is high and the fish are running up from the
sea : between them and the upper pools there is a succession
of rapids, through which the salmon do not venture to
ascend until the spring floods have greatly subsided, and
then they do not remain in the lower pools, but push on
upwards.

I would recommend any one going to fish this stream to
be there about the 7th of June, to establish his camp near
the spot indicated in the chart at page 218, to remain

220 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

there till the salmon came up, and when his sport began
to grow slack, to make an occasional visit to the upper
pool, shifting his camp to that vicinity as soon as he finds
the fishing better there than below. This will be no
trifling task, for the portage between the pools is about
three miles of the steepest and roughest walking that ever
it was my lot to meet with in a mountainous country, but
it will be attended with much advantage, for it is always
well to shift your tent occasionally, and you will be on the
spot where you are to expect the greatest portion of your
season's sport.

In order to give some idea of what this may be, I do
not conceive that I can adopt a better course than to give
some extracts from the journal of an angler and a gentle-
man, which he kept during his visit to this river in the
summer of 1853, and which he has kindly placed at my
disposal.*

"Left Quebec at 6 P.M. 7th June, 1853. Anchored off
the Groodbout river at 7 P.M. on the 10th. Kan into the
river at 3J A.M. On the llth arrived at the camping
ground at about nine o'clock. In the afternoon — the

* It may be well to mention that during the whole of this season, 1853,
the employes of the Hudson's Bay Company had twelve barrier nets across
different parts of this beautiful stream, some of them actually in the very-
best of the pools. A suicidal policy which can only be accounted for in one
of two modes, -either they wanted to disgust the gentlemen who were fishing
there, or being about to give up their post at the river, they endeavoured
to kill every fish in it.

THE GOODBOUT. 221

river being very high — took a few casts from shore, but

rose nothing. S y rose three fish in the evening,

fishing from his boat.

" June 12th. Fished from boat from 7 until 8J A.M.,
rose two and killed one. Fly, blue body, silver tinsel,

mixed, gaudy wing, medium hook. S y killed one

from boat.

"June 13th. Hooked a large salmon at 11 A.M., at the
head of the stream between the shore and the island, held
him for several minutes, when, in spite of the butt, he
caught the rapid and carried away the fly, — dark body,
silver tinsel, wing of light mallard and turkey, black hackle.

S y killed one fish of 7 Ibs, and S one of 8 Ibs.

Weather clear and windy. A few fish running up, but
not many.

" 14th June. Divided the hours for fishing. S y

began from 4 to 6, and brought in a salmon of 7 Ibs.

I fished from 6J to 8| rose one. S killed one of

9 Ibs. From 4 to 6 killed a 9J Ib. fish with a 14 foot rod.
From 6 to 8 rose ten fish, hooked and lost two in long
rapid on the north shore of the second island. Evening
clear and calm. Several salmon playing in the pools, but
rising shyly at the fly.

"June 15th. From 4 to 6 A.M., hooked a salmon at
the head of the long rapid, fought him for a few minutes,
but lost him and casting-line in the stream. The claret
and fiery-brown bodied flies, the favourites, varied in the

222 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

evening by blue with silver tinsel. Eose two fish in the

evening ; B came up in the evening and dined with

us. Weather intensely hot and sultry. Later, a strong
breeze sprung up, but died away with the setting sun.
S y killed two, and D his first salmon.

"June 16th. From 4 to 6 A.M. killed a small salmon
above the long rapid. From 7 to 10 killed another at the
tail of the long rapid. S — - killed one at the point of

the first island, and in the evening S y slew three fish

in the long rapid. Weather very bright and hot, and the
black flies numerous. This day we agreed to divide the
boats, two of the party fishing from 4 A.M to 12 ; the
other two from 12 to 8 P.M.

"June \1th. Fished from 12 to 8 P.M., killed two
salmon in the tail of the long rapid, hooked and lost two

more in the same place. S killed three fish. Thunder

showers.

"June 18th. From 4 to 12 killed one fish. S

killed two. During the day I rose, hooked, and lost four.
Cloudy.

"June 19th. Walked with D • after breakfast to

the upper pool, tried for, but found no salmon there. In

the evening hooked and lost two fish. S killed three.

S y three. Weather hot and bright, and the black

flies awful.

" June 20th. Killed one fish between 4 and 6A.M.
S killed three during the day. S y and D

THE GOODBOUT. 223

one each. Thunder storm in the evening. Net put across
the river by the Hudson's Bay Company, confound them !
Weather cloudy. River low. Fish increasing, but not
plentiful. Flies, slate-coloured and gray bodies, red
hackle, turkey feather wing.

"June 2lst. Killed afoul fish. D slew a sixteen

pounder in gallant style. Weather still very hot and
bright.

" June 22nd. S killed three fish in the stream

above the fall. S y killed one. Weather hot and

bright. High spring tide in the morning. Went with

D to the upper pool, which we found high and

salmonless. In the evening fished from shore, but had no
luck.

" June 23rd. Lost a big fish a short distance below the

falls. S killed four above the fall during the day.

Weather cloudy but calm, and the salmon difficult to move.
In the evening tried for the first time the green drakes,

and found an admirer. S y and D bagged no end

of sea-trout at the post. Ordered the schooner to Matane
to make inquiries about the fishing there. Preparations
being made for netting the upper pool, it is high time we
should be off out of this. Salmon, from all accounts, a
complete failure this year. Sorry I cannot say as much
for the flies, to which the Egyptian plague must have been
a trifle.

" June 24;th. Last night the Indian whom we had hired

224 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

with his canoe, left us with the intention of not returning,
because the flies were killing him. This morning, however,
he made his appearance as the weather was cold with a strong

easterly wind and few flies. S y and S went to

the upper pool, found it full of salmon, and brought home
thirteen, having lost several others. In the evening the
weather being cold and inclined to rain, I fished for an
hour, and hooked and lost a large salmon which carried
out all my line in the rapid, and broke my casting line
like cobweb."

The party remained from this date till the llth of July,
chiefly fishing the upper pool, and killing day after day,
four, six, ten, eleven, twelve, and thirteen fish. In the
former part of the period dun flies were successful, in the
latter they found small bright flies more attractive. They
killed the greatest numbers in the upper pool, on the 28th
of June, 1st, 2nd, and 4th of July. They then set sail in
their schooner for Matane, where they found no fishing ;
from thence they proceeded to Metis, where they were
lodged upon the bank of a beautiful stream abounding in
salmon and saw-logs, the latter rendering it almost impos-
sible to kill the former ; in addition to which there was no
lack of hands -to use the nets by day and the spears by
night.

Mr. Ferguson is the Seigneur of Metis, and speaks of
entirely removing a very detrimental dam which is across
the river, of building a commodious hotel for the accommo-

THE METIS. 225

dation of sea-bathers and fishermen, and of erecting
shanties for the shelter of sportsmen, on the side of a lake
about sixty miles off, which is said to be the source of the
Eistigouche river and to contain multitudes of salmon and
large trout. Our party visited this piece of water, whichis
called Salmon Lake ; but there they found no salmon and
only a few small trout, the scenery however being very
grand : from thence they wended their way to a spot on
the Metapediac, one of the tributaries of the Eistigouche
river called " The Forks," where, under the guidance
of a civil and obliging man named Noble, in whose house
they found sufficient accommodation, they fished the streams
for some days without any success, though there were
salmon in the river. If good fishing is to be had here at
any time, it is in June, when the Indians do not use the
spear, and when the water is too high in the lower parts
for the nets to be worked effectively. Subsequently my
friends, after a long, hot, and harassing land journey,
returned to Metis, where, in spite of spears and saw-logs
they managed to hook and lose and kill a few large
salmon.

The conclusion arrived at, by the friend, from whose
journal I extract the foregoing particulars, is that there is
no dependence to be placed on any account of salmon
fishing on the south shore of the St. Lawrence. Yet
it appears to me, from his own showing, that if an angler
happened to be at Metis at the proper season — June —

Q

226

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

he would stand a good chance of killing some large fish,
and of losing a great many also ; and that if the Seigneur
keeps his word, removes the dam, and clears the river of
logs, it may prove to be worth some thousands a year to
him as a salmon river.

CHAPTER XII.

TRINITY. —PENTECOST. —MARGARET.

' Oh, ye valleys ! Oh, ye mountains !
Oh, ye groves and crystal fountains !
How I love, at liberty,
By turns to come and visit ye."

COTTON.

229

CHAP. XII.

TRINITY. — PENTECOST. MARGARET.

INGE we commenced jot-
ting down our reminis-
cences in the foregoing
pages, we have had fre-
quent occasion to make
mention of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and we
think it is not improbable
that our readers might wish
to know something more of
that honourable body than

is to be found in those allusions, and therefore furnish them

with the following sketch.*

* In the year 1669, a company was formed in London, under the direc-
tion of Prince Rupert, for the purpose of prosecuting the fur trade in the
regions surrounding Hudson's Bay. This company obtained a charter from
Charles II., granting to them and their successors, under the name of " The
Governor and Company of Adventurers trading into Hudson's Bay," the
sole right of trading in all the country watered by rivers flowing into
Hudson's Bay. This charter also authorised them to build and fit out
men-of-war, establish forts, prevent any other company from carrying on
trade with the natives in their territories, and required that they should do
all in their power to promote discovery.

Q3

230 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

The concerns of the Hudson's Bay Company are man-
aged by a governor and deputy-governor resident in
Canada, and a committee of directors established in
London, by whom all general regulations and orders are
devised, and sent forth, and by whom all the accounts,
reports of subordinates, and other matters of interest are
examined and controlled. The conduct of this body is
enveloped in profound secresy. Even the communications
which they are required to make to the government in
writing, are made with studied brevity and caution, and
contain only what is absolutely required. This policy,
which originated in apprehension of rivalry and of parlia-
mentary interference in their interior regulations and
intercourse with the Indians, it is to be regretted, has
resulted in the suppression of a multitude of facts im-
portant to science at large, and especially so to our
geographical knowledge.* The duty of the governor, who
is resident in Canada, is to visit the various trading posts,
to superintend and direct the conduct of the commandants,
and to collect and transmit to the Board in London an
accurate account of their proceedings. Each interior fort
or trading post has a commandant and a clerk, as many
traders as are necessary to carry the goods into the villages

* This disgrace, however, -will no longer attach to them, for beside the dis-
coveries made by Herne, Dease, and Simpson, there is at the present day an
expedition on foot, under one of their most experienced and clever servants,
to complete the survey of the northern coast of America, left unfinished by
the last-named explorers.

THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY. 231

and bring in the furs, and as many voyageurs or hands
as are required to transport the goods to the various
points at which their trade is carried on. The strictest dis-
cipline and regularity, and the most rigid economy, mark
all their proceedings ; and as the civil and criminal affairs
and tribunals are composed of their own subjects, the Com-
pany may be said to exercise all the functions of govern-
ment, saving to the Crown only due homage and a nominal
control.

The posts of the Company are dotted all over Northern
America from the- Atlantic to the Pacific. The most
northern is situated on M'Kenzie's Eiver within the Arctic
circle, and is called Fort Grood Hope. In all these
territories there are near 100 of these posts. They are,
with the exception of Fort Churchill, York Factory, and
one on Vancouver's Island, stockades, with little wooden
bastions at the corners capable of holding a travelling
party of thirty or forty persons. But the unrivalled in-
tercourse with the Indians has given them so complete
a control over them, that, for purposes of trade in safety,
they never need, and rarely have, more than four or five
tenants. The largest of these posts, prior to the late
treaty with the United States, was Fort Vancouver, on
the Colombia Kiver, about ninety miles from its mouth,
and accessible to vessels of fourteen feet draught. It
consisted of a stockade, inclosing four acres of ground, a
village of sixty houses, stores, mills, workshops, a farm

Q 4

232 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

of 3,000 acres, and a considerable quantity of cattle. This,
together with all other posts south of the 49th parallel,
has been conveyed by a treaty to the United States, at a
price fixed by the commissioners appointed by the parties.
The fur trade is naturally a decreasing trade. In a
letter from Mr. Pelly, the governor, to Lord Grlenelg,
previous to the charter of 1838, he states that nearly their
whole profits were drawn from their own proper territories,
their own trade exhibiting in some instances a trifling
loss and in others a trifling gain. This difference between
their own proper territory and that .obtained from the
North-west Company has been occasioned by the fact
that the Bay Company have uniformly, except in Oregon,
enforced regulations for the preservation of game, while
all their rivals destroyed them with reckless prodigality.
In 1844 they exported, from the whole of their possessions,
433,398 skins, valued at about $800,000. In 1845 their
exportations were of a value a little exceeding that of the
previous year. In these same years the value of the
goods introduced into the country was about $200,000.
The whole number of persons employed was about 1,212.
Eating the salaries and wages of these at $150,000, the
net profit would be $450,000. From 1845 up to this
time the number of skins taken has gradually decreased,
and there has been a corresponding decrease of impor-
tations and of the number of employes. The profits are
now about $300,000. From this sum, in order to ascer-

THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY. 233

tain the clear final profits, we must deduct the cost of
transportation by sea to Europe and China. This I have
no means of knowing. The forts are all built by these
men, working for the allowed wages, and they also trans-
port the goods from the St. Lawrence, or York Factory,
to the interior in canaes and on pack animals and dog-
sledges, and the furs to the St. Lawrence, York Factory,
or Vancouver's Island. The goods are put up into pack-
ages of ninety pounds in London, two of which can be
carried by a mule, and which a single person can con-
veniently handle in making portages around falls and
other impediments in interior navigation. The furs also
are always in bales of the same weight.
• The furs are nearly all shipped to London, either at
Montreal, at York Factory, or from Puget's Sound, whence
they are distributed through Europe and the East.
Direct shipments are sometimes made from the western
coast of Canton, but this does not frequently happen.
There was formerly an understanding with the East India
Company, by which those sent to China and the East
were exchanged for teas and silks for the European market,
but that arrangement is now dispensed with.

The Hudson's Bay Company enjoy the exclusive privi-
lege of trading with the Indian tribes in all the British
dominions. They have established . schools for the in-
struction of the native and half-breed children at their
posts, and they have given every facility and encourage-

234 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

merit to missionaries to enter the Indian territory, and in
consequence of the absence of competition they have the
power of compelling the Indians to pay them higher prices
than they would otherwise have to pay. The Company
has entirely succeeded in acquiring a controlling influence
over the various tribes within their territories ; and justice
compels me to aver that in the main this influence has
been exercised beneficially to the natives. They have re-
pressed their vindictive wars, given them adequate motives
to exert themselves for a support, substituted our imple-
ments and many of the comforts of civilisation for the rude
inventions of barbarism ; and in many other ways essen-
tially ameliorated their condition. Some of the hunters
and trappers, when far beyond their control, have occa-
sionally perpetrated acts worthy of fiends ; but there is no
room to doubt that these atrocities have been severely
punished when discovered.

This Company holds by lease, from the government of
Canada, that portion of its territory denominated the
King's Posts, extending from the Saguenay to the boundary
of Terra Firma. This lease is dated 2nd October 1851,
and is for twenty years, at a rent of 60l. per annum.

The old lease held by the Company from the Canadian
government, gave them exclusive rights in the seal and
other fisheries. The present lease cancels all exclusive
privileges, and gives the government the power to let or
sell any of their lands for lumbering, or agricultural

THE HUDSON S BAY COMPANY. 235

purposes, or for carrying on of porpoise or other fisheries,
on giving the Company eighteen months' notice.

The whole territory under the control of the Company
comprises, with a few spots of good soil, an immense tract
of desolate region, totally unfit for cultivation and for the
habitation of civilised man. It is sprinkled all over with
groups and chains of lakes, united by streams, the heads of
which so nearly approach, that slight labour would be
requisite to unite them and thus divide the continent into
a number of islands. These interior streams and lakes are
the channels upon which their goods and furs are trans-
ported by the voyageurs. The sparsity of the soil has
rendered it an object to preserve the races of the fur-
bearing animals, as the most productive revenue the
Company are likely to derive from the country. For this
purpose they have divided it into a number of districts —
or beats. The commandants of posts are charged with the
duty of taking care that no animal be killed out of season,
that the females are well preserved, and that the Indians
confine themselves to hunting the proper animals at the
proper period. The Indians are restrained by penalties and
by the regulations which preclude them from trade when
the laws are violated.

The voyageurs or canoe-men are a very unique, and
strongly marked race of beings. Descended from the old
courier de bois, they have retained some traits derived
from the intimate associates of their fathers with the

236 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Indian tribes and the wild and fierce life which they led,
but under the controlling influence of the Company they
have lost all the ferocious and sanguinary traits which
once disgraced them. Their dress is semi-barbarous.
They usually wear a surcoat, made of a Mackinaw blanket
of blue, red, or green colour, a striped cotton or calico
shirt, stuff trowsers, and sometimes leather leggings,
moccasins of deer or buffalo skin shod with raw hide, and
a belt of bright colour, from which they suspend a tobacco-
pouch and other implements. Their language is piebald
lingo, the ground of which is a French patois embroidered
with English, Scotch, and Indian phrases.

The whole lives of these voyageurs is consumed in wild
and extensive rovings, sometimes far into the Arctic circle
where food and raiment are alike difficult to obtain, and
then over the great mountain chain of the North-west
and down as far as the Pacific coast, and again along the
coasts of winding streams, inlets, bays, and lakes, exposed
to every inclemency of the most inhospitable climate in
the world. A few days of association with civilised com-
munities uniformly disgusts and wearies them. They
cannot rest when fettered by the institutions and habits
of civilisation. The only truly happy time they ex-
perience, is when upon long and toilsome expeditions up
rivers, around portages and across lakes, encamping at night
in the open air, and chatting around their evening" fires.
Then the meal of meats (if they have them) is roasted

CANADIAN VOYAGEURS. 237

upon the wood fire, the pipe is passed round, the story of
hazardous adventure is told, and the joyous song is borne
upon the bosom of the still and quiet lake. Then it is
that all the hereditary gaiety of the French race is ex-
hibited. They are most skilful canoemen, vigorous and
adroit with the paddle, and they will move on from one
day's end to another, only relieving their labours with their
songs and their jests. Murmuring or quarreling rarely
occurs among them. The language employed in their in-
tercourse is uniformly kind and affectionate, and although
they have their full share of the intense egotism and ele-
vation of self in the French character, it is softened
and disguised by the politeness and apparent cordiality of
their demeanour. Nothing can be more romantic or more
pleasing than to repose upon the banks of one of those
quiet lakes when the skies are clear, the air balmy and
the waters moving in glittering ripples, and listen to the
sweet chaunts which have been preserved by tradition and
which are sung by these voyageurs as they steadily ply the
oar to their cadence.

The following is one of the most popular of these
songs : —

238

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.
MA BOULE ROULANT.

En roulant, ma boule roulant, En roulant, ma bou - - le.

Derrier'chez nous'y a-t-un etang. En roulant, ma bou - le. Le

Ir _J ^ 1^1

fils du Roi s'en va chassant, Rouli, roulant, ma

En roulant, nia boule roulant, En roulant ma bou - le.

Derriere chez nous'y a-t-un 6tang,

En roulant ma boule ;
Trois beaux canards s'en vont
baignant.

Rouli, roulant,
Ma boule roulant,
En roulant ma boule roulant,
En roulant ma boule.

Trois beaux canards s'en vont

baignant,

En roulant ma boule,
Le fils du roi s'en va chassant.

Rouli, roulant, &c.

0 fils du1 roi, tu es mechant !

En roulant ma boule,
D'avoir tu6 mon canard blanc.
Rouli, roulant, &c.

Par dessous 1'aile il perd son sang,

En roulant ma boule,
Par les yeux lui sort' des diamans.
Rouli, roulant, &c.

Et par le bee 1'or et 1'argent,

En roulant ma boule,
Toutes ses plum' s'en vont au vent,
Rouli, roulant, &c.

Avec son grand fusil d'argent,

En roulant ma boule,
Visa le noir, tua le blanc.
Rouli, roulant, &c.

C'est pour en faire un lit de camp,

En roulant ma boule ;
Pour y coucher tous les passans,
^ Rouli, roulant, &c.

Trois dam's s'en vont les ramassant

En roulant ma boule ;
C'est pour en faire un lit de camp,
Rouli, roulant, &c.

SONG OF THE VOYAGEURS. 239

There are very many others at least equally worth pre-
servation with the foregoing ; but, though it is easy to
meet persons of all ranks in life — in Canada — who
can sing them, it is very difficult to find any who can
write out the words and the music. The former are
readily obtained, and are the least valuable*; while the
latter, which contains some beautiful wild airs, is rarely
to be discovered. I hope, however, before our fishing is
concluded, to be enabled to enrich my pages with some of

* Here is a specimen : —

LE JOLI MOIS DE MAI.
1.

Derriere chez ma tante

II y a un bois joli,
Le rossignol y chante, y chante
Tant le jour que la nuit ;
Gai Ion la, gai le rosier
Du joli mois de mai.

2.

Le rossignol y chante

Tant le jour que la nuit,
II chante pour ces dames, ces dames,

Qui n'ont point de maris.
Gai Ion la, etc.

3.

II ne chante pas pour moi, pour moi,
Car j'en ai un joli.

4.

II n'est pas dans la danse, la danse
II est bien loin d'ici.

240 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

them. The territory, through which the streams of which
we have been writing flow, is not a part of that immense
country granted to the Hudson's Bay Company by the
charter of Charles II. Its waters do not flow into Hudson's
Bay, but into the great St. Lawrence, and it is held by
lease from the Canadian government, to which it belongs,
in trust for the people.

But it is time that we should say something of the
rivers whose names we have placed at the head of this
chapter ; and first of the Trinity, of which Captain Bayfield
thus writes : — "In Trinity Bay, where, with westerly winds,
a pilot will generally be found, is good anchorage, with
moderate depth of water. It is two miles wide, and nearly
one mile deep, with a fine sandy beach extending from its
south-west point to Trinity Eiver, which is a small and
rapid stream, abounding with trout and salmon." I have
been frequently on the banks of the stream, but never
until the fishing season was over. From its appearance,
however, and the large quantities of salmon which I have
seen taken in it by the Hudson's Bay Company's servants,
I have no doubt but that good fishing would be found
there, particularly in the early part of the season, and in
the pools which are nearest to the sea. Should it ever be
my good fortune again to visit the Groodbout with a party
of four, I should gladly form one of a detachment of two
to be stationed for a while at the Trinity, for I have no
doubt but that, once the fish begin to run, there would be

THE PENTECOST. 241

found fresh salmon in these lower pools every tide.
Besides, it is an excellent place to encamp, quite close to
supplies, and affording opportunities for popping into the
sea when you pop out of bed in the morning. In 1853 I
walked along the banks of this river for about a mile and
a half from where it falls into the sea, but did not find
any streams likely to arrest the attention of an angler ;
what I did see, however, induced me to wish for a canoe,
in order to enable me to make further exploration ; for I
had heard that there were rapids only a short distance up
the stream where the salmon would probably rest, and
afford the fisherman an opportunity of exercising his skill
in alluring them to his angle*

My first and only visit to the Pentecost was on Wed-
nesday, the 4th of July, 1849. We intended to have
anchored in Trinity Bay> and to have tried the river there ;
but, a fine breeze having sprung up from the westward, we
carried on and ran aground inside of the bar of the
Pentecost at 12 o'clock. The tide was ebbing, and in a
very short time our yacht was on her beam ends, by no
means a pleasant position for the inhabitants of a ship,
whether on land or on water. We had previously fished
the Goodbout, and left that river in consequence of the dis-
contented temper of the captain, who, never satisfied, would
sail at the very time the best sport was commencing. The
little success we met with on this occasion has been a
warning to every man of that party not for the future to

K

242 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

coDSume his time in running from river to river, but to
manage to arrive early at some stream where he knows
there are salmon, to make his camp there, explore it in
every direction, meet the fish on their first arrival, when
they are in best humour to take, and in best condition,
and not to leave them till they have left him. The season
is short in Canada, from 10th of June to the 10th of
August, and every day between these dates spent in sailing
is a day lost, for it is a day in which, at any of the salmon
rivers, a man would in all probability have killed several
fish. During the season 1849, in consequence of the
sailing propensities of some of our party, we killed but
fifty-seven salmon, though five of us were fishing — and
sailing — from the 14th of June to the 1st of August. It
is right, having made this confession, that I should add in
extenuation that we were deficient, sadly deficient, in
small boats, having only one for us all ; without an ample
supply of which men will find it more pleasant and pro-
fitable to remain at Quebec and fish for tommy- cods than
to go down the gulf to fish for salmon.

But to return to the Pentecost. After we had refreshed
and comforted ourselves by washing and shaving, and

sponging and changing our clothes, the Baron, H , and

I set out to explore the river, whilst the Major and the
Captain proceeded to search along the sea-shore for lobsters,
guided by an intelligent Indian, who with his family was
encamped on the point of sand which forms the southern

AN AWKWAKD FIX. 243

boundary of the river. After having pulled our boat for
about two miles against the stream, we were compelled, by
the rapidity of the current and the shallowness of the
water, to beach her, and to proceed on our weary way
wading through water, mud, and marl, which we did for
about two miles more ; and truth renders it requisite for
me to state that every additional view we obtained of the
river, it looked less like a stream in which salmon fishing
was to be had. So, weary, jaded, disgusted, and hungry,
we retraced our steps in the direction of our yacht ; and
never shall I forget the absurd and grotesque difficulties
we experienced in the endeavour to change our clothes in
her cabin while she still remained upon her beam ends :
it was the only time I. ever envied a house fly his ability
to walk on the ceiling. Finding it impossible to hold a
heavy portmanteau in my arms, to unlock it, and abstract
the necessary garments all at the same time, we adjourned
to the sandy beach, where we made a very comfortable
toilette, and were delighted to find our fellow travellers
superintending the boiling of as fine a lot of coral lobsters
as I ever laid my eyes upon. When they were fully
cooked we got all the appliances and means for dining,
and then and there made a luxurious and a hearty meal,
after which I fell asleep on the sand, and slept soundly
till eleven o'clock, P.M., when we again went on board,
and, with a light breeze from the westward, bade adieu
to the Pentecost, which we had been taught to believe was

B 2

244 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

a good salmon river, and in which I have no doubt there
are salmon and plenty of sea trout. Indeed, the Indian
family we found there were encamped upon its banks with
a view of fishing for trout, and had nets set for the purpose ;
but it is not a stream upon which I would recommend
any man to risk his season's fishing, at least until it is
more carefully explored than it was by me.

The information I can give with regard to the River
St. Margaret is but scanty and unsatisfactory, as I have
never fished in it. One thing with regard to it is certain,
viz., that there are salmon in it, for every year the Hudson's
Bay Company have a detachment there fishing for them ;
and another matter, that the fishing is not far from the
mouth of the river, appears pretty clear from the following
account of it by Captain Bayfield : — " The St. Margaret
Eiver is nearly in the centre of the bay of the same name.
This river, although a large stream, affords shelter to
boats only. It has a bar of sand extending three quarters
of a mile out from the entrance, and having several small
channels through it, with only three feet at low water.
Immediately within the entrance, which is 170 fathoms
wide, there are six feet, and only three feet can be carried
up to the low falls, which are over granitic rocks, and
three and a quarter miles from the entrance." Now, I
should say, that any tolerably expert angler who could
command the throw immediately above these " low falls "
at the proper season, would without doubt be enabled to

THE SEVEN ISLANDS. 245

hook many a lively fish. That so little is known about the
fly-fishing in this fine stream, arises from the difficulty
of getting into it with a schooner of any reasonable size.
This operated in my own case, in more seasons than one,
and to my knowledge deterred a party of the 79th Kegi-
ment from exploring it in 1849. I understand, however,
that it. can be reached on foot by a portage from Seven
Islands Bay, where there is the best anchorage and
shelter from all winds. But if you determine to reach it
in this way, then you must leave your skiff or cot behind
you, which the proper exploration of the stream will in-
evitably demand that you should take with you, so that,
upon the whole, perhaps it will be better, unless it is
otherwise occupied, that you should proceed at once to the
Moisic.

There is an establishment of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany at the Bay of Seven Islands, the scenery of which
is grand and sublime, though lonely, wild, and desolate.
The Post, as it is called, is built upon a low sandy beach
at the bottom of the bay ; it is flanked right and left by
abundance of small sized trees. In the background
rugged and lofty hills, broken occasionally by the bright
gleams from a waterfall, stretch away into the horizon
as far as the eye can see ; and in front seven towering
islands, from whence the Bay and Post derive their name,
obstruct the view, affording only a partial glimpse of the

B 3

246

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

open sea beyond. No human habitations exist within
seventy miles of this place.

Few vessels visit this bay except for shelter from op-
posing winds or for the purposes of whale fishing, but
this is a subject which calls for a chapter on its own
account.

CHAPTER XIII.

WHALE FISHING IN THE ST. LAWKENCE.

R 4

" Here leviathan,

Hugest of living creatures, on the deep
Stretch' d like a promontory, sleeps or swims,
And seems a moving land ; and at his gills
Draws in, and at his trunk spouts out, a sea."

MILTON.

249

CHAP. XIII,

WHALE FISHINO IN THE ST. LAWRENCE.

Bay of Seven
Islands abounds with
whales in the sum-
mer season, and at a
short distance from
it, on the 26th of
July, 1849, it was
my good fortune to
witness for the first
time the capture of the monster of the deep in the legitimate
manner. Two of my companions on that occasion had
frequently seen and often described to me, as the most
exciting of all sights, the Spanish bull-fight ; but if it is
fair to form an opinion from their conduct, exclamations,
and gestures at the period I speak of, I should say that
whale fishing must very closely approximate in the feelings
it produces to the very best of bull-fights.

We had been for some weeks enjoying ourselves
upon the banks of the Mingan and Manitou Eivers, and

250 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

were now retracing our course to Quebec in the good
yacht Iroquois, with a light breeze from the eastward, which,
when we had got about fifteen miles west of the Peroquet
Islands, subsided into a complete calm. We were not
long in the listless state which such circumstances usually
produce, for one of our crew discovered an extraordinary
appearance at about two miles' distance from us, which as
it was carefully examined by the aid of our telescopes
became more and more strange to look upon. It looked
like a brig turned upside down, its masts seeming to rest
upon the water, while its hull was elevated in the air,
and crowned with two large crescents. This vision quickly
changed its form, and the crescents appeared to approach
us obliquely, while the hulls of the vessels retained their
original shape.

Whoever has sailed in summer among the Mingan and
Peroquet Islands, has observed many wonders worked by
the mirage. Sometimes, whatever may be the shape of
the rock or island, its top seems raised and flattened,
generally extending in a horizontal line so far on each side,
as at least to equal the base in extent, often beyond it ;
whilst midway between the base and distorted top, the figure
is contracted, having the appearance of a neck.

When two islands lie close together, these flattened
tops sometimes meet, giving the appearance of an arch
from one to the other. Vessels may be seen inverted,

THE MIEAGE. 251

presenting also a double image, but generally less distinct
than the images of the land.

"All the various forms assumed by objects, under the
influence of this mirage," says Dr. Kelly, in an able paper
in the transactions of the Literary and Historical Society
of Quebec, " seem to be the result of two or more images
alternately erect and inverted, either distinct or mingled
together in a greater or less degree. When the objects
are near, the images are usually confused; they are so
occasionally in distant objects, but can, in most instances
be distinguished by the help of a telescope, and sometimes
they are beautifully distinct to the naked eye."

A telescope should always be employed in observing
mirages, as it enables the eye to detect particulars that
would escape the naked organ of vision. On one occasion
when, to the naked eye, the hull of a ship seemed raised to
an enormous height, and the sails very small, the telescope
showed three distinct images. Of the two lower the second
was inverted, and its rigging and sails intimately mingled
with those of the first upright one. The third image was
erect, with its hull resting on the inverted hull of the
second. The space between the hulls of the first and
second image being occupied by a confused mingling of
masts, sails and rigging, gave to the whole the appearance
of one immensely raised hull, as already stated.

By the help of the telescope we were afterwards enabled
to detect five distinct images, though the whole gave to

252 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the naked eye the impression of only one almost shapeless
mass, like that which has just been mentioned.

"The most remarkable instance of mirage, which we
saw," says Dr. Kelly, e( was that in which a vessel with all
sail set, at one moment looked like an immense black
chest, no sails or masts being visible. On observing her
for a time the black body seemed to separate horizontally
into two parts, and two sets of mingled sails occupied the
intervening spaces, with one set of very small sails above.
The figures afterwards became more distinct, and three
images were clearly discerned. Another vessel changed
also from the form of a great square flat-topped chest, to
five distinct images, the upper with the sails erect, and the
two lower double images with their sails rather confusedly
intermingled. A raised horizon was parallel to the upper
figure of the hull."

In a third instance, the chest-like figure divided into
two portions, of .which one appeared to be nearer than the
other, the sea seeming to be interposed. When we first
saw it we thought there really were two hulls, and the
deception was only removed by the figures gradually uniting
and forming one.

Off Basque Island, on the 10th September 1836, at
3 P.M., two ships to the eastward seemed each to consist of
three immense columns of irregularly formed sails, with a
set of small distinct sails at the top of each column. The
images seemed, not only immensely raised but also ex-

THE MIKAGE. 253

tended horizontally, the space between the masts being
considerable, and each column of sails quite distinct. The
jibs were indistinctly erect and inverted alternately, giving
some appearance of a combination of images, but there was
no appearance of a hull. The vessels were some miles
distant from us probably hull-down.

The temperature of the surface water varies much
amongst the Mingan islands. Several rivers empty them-
selves into the sea at this place, the waters of which, in
calms, float on its surface, which thus is sometimes several
degrees warmer than the water at the depth of a few inches.
A moderate current of air, which, amongst small islands is
often partial, sometimes, by agitating the water at one place,
renders the surface there cold, whilst it continues warm
in the place sheltered from the wind. We have, hence,
occasionally, strange combinations of mirage. On the 16th
and 17th of July, shortly before the double images of the
Peroquet were observed, the islands to the eastward of the
harbour had their extremities apparently projecting in the
air, as is usual in that species of mirage which depends on
the temperature of the surface being higher than that of
the air. The horizon on this side was low and near ; a rock
three miles distant, seemed above it. As the breeze sprung
up from the S. W. the horizon receded beyond this rock,
and the islands generally appeared to have flattened tops,
showing the mirage of the opposite kind. But the ex-
treme points of the most distant island seemed still in

254 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the air, notwithstanding the island generally presented
the same flat level top as the others — thus showing
in its different parts the opposite forms of mirage at the
same time.

Something like this occurs frequently in the straits of
Belle-Isle, where the Labrador coast exhibits the flattened
tops, walled sides, and other marks of the mirage which
is connected with a cold surface ; whilst on the Newfound-
land side the horizon is depressed, and the points and low
shores of the headlands consequently lifted into the air.

The most remarkable mirages over water have occurred
in straits, — those seen by Mr. Vince at Dover, and the cele-
brated Fata Morgagna at Messina, In the St. Lawrence
they are most frequently observed and present the greatest
varieties in similar situations, as at Bic, Point des Monts,
Mingan, and the Straits of Belle-Isle.

But to return to our story. The crescents continued
gradually to approach, and, as they did so, to become less
elevated at the horns, until after a short time they stood
revealed before us in their true character, as two whale
boats each having one man standing up in the stern steer-
ing with a long oar, and another in the bow armed with
the fatal harpoon. Almost at the same instant that we
discerned these things clearly, the mist which had previ-
ously obstructed our view and distorted what we saw, was
withdrawn as the lifting up of a veil, and presented to us
clearly the whaling vessel to which the boats belonged, and,

A CHASE.

255

still more interesting, the whale of which they were in
pursuit.

For a considerable time the chase was continued before
either of the boats could approach sufficiently near to the
leviathan to enable the harpooner to deliver his deadly
weapon. Never did I experience more tremulous anxiety

WHALE FISHING.

than during the time that the whale appeared to be
coquetting and alternately alluring and disappointing his
pursuers ; sometimes displaying his unwieldy bulk on the
surface of the water, lying apparently in a state of insensi-
bility, then diving out of sight, leaving the blue waters
foaming white behind him.

The instant he descended into the water both boats'
crews rowed with all their might towards the spot where

256 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

they deemed it probable he would again rise to take
breath. This occurred several times, till at last, upon his
rising from his dive, which he did within a few feet of the
boat nearest to our yacht, he received the harpoon deep
into his flesh. Then arose a shout into the skies, and the
stern cry of "Back all" from the successful boat, was
answered by a chant from the other,

"Laugh at fear!

Plunge it deep, the barbed spear !
Strike the lance in swift career !
Give him line ! Give him line !
Down he goes through the foaming brine."

The instantaneous rush of the infuriated and wounded fish,
tearing the little boat freighted with human life through
the hissing waters, was terribly sublime. Such was the
velocity with which it flew that it literally cleaved out for
itself a channel through the deep, " a wall of waters on
the right hand and on the left," which was sufficiently
high to conceal the adventurous fishermen completely from
our view till they had attained a distance from us of, I
should say, about two miles, when the huge fish beginning
to become exhausted, commenced to move in a circle and
so to return towards us.

At this period we perceived that, beside the whale in
which the harpoon was fixed, there was another of a much
larger size which accompanied every motion of the former ;
this we subsequently learned was the old or cow whale,

WHALING. 257

whose disposition is said to be mild and inoffensive, except
when its young is attacked, when it is as bold as a lion and
manifests an affection which is truly interesting. On this
occasion the old whale continued to swim round the young
one, to roll over in the water as if to allure it from its
pursuers, evincing the tenderest maternal solicitude. Then
as if aware of the impending peril of her inexperienced
offspring, as the boat drew near she would swim round her
calf in decreasing circles, showing the utmost anxiety to
draw it seaward, failing in which she would lash the blue
waters into foam with repeated blows of the tremendous
flukes of her powerful tail, causing reverberations like a
thousand thunders ; and, to my astonishment, for I had
never heard or read that the whale had any such ability,
jumping as high out of the water in proportion to her size,
as I have ever seen a lively salmon or a spotted trout.

Before taking out all the line from the boat's crew, the
young whale, in which the harpoon was firmly fixed, began
to ascend towards the surface, and the line was then hauled
in by the men and coiled away in the tub kept for the
purpose by the steersman. The moment the whale came
up so as to be enabled to breathe and blow, " he went
smoking off like a locomotive with an express." The men
held on manfully to the line, and with oars peaked ready
to be seized in a moment, away again they dashed in the
track of the whale. Had they been yoked to a team of
wild horses travelling over glassy ice, their rate of travelling

s

258 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

could not have been quicker. As they flew along at the
tail of the monster, they could see nothing but a white
bank of foam, which rolled up before them higher than the
bow of the boat, threatening each moment to overflow
them.

At length the unfortunate fish slackened his speed, when
the men hauled up to him and the harpooner adroitly
darted his lance, a pointed weapon as sharp as a needle,
deep into his flesh ; again the poor animal made a despe-
rate but short race, at the end of which he was met by the
second boat which had kept as near as possible during the
chase, and from which he received another wound with the
piercing lance. Weakened with loss of blood, which was
now spouted forth from his huge nostrils in torrents, the
subdued monster soon became passive, and his captors lay
off at safe distance to wait the last struggle. This was
soon over, for after a few moments of convulsive writhing,
there came the final spasm which was terrible to see. The
surrounding waters were lashed into foam, and all previous
exhibitions of the huge fish's power were as nothing com-
pared with the incredible strength put forth in the last
" flurry," which however gradually subsided till the dying
monster wearily elevated his monstrous head considerably
above the waves, uttered a groan loud beyond conception,
and lay a lifeless mass upon the waters which were deeply
tinged with his blood.

The twro boats then approached the enormous carcass,

THE WHALE CUT UP. 259

when the whalers put a noose about the tail and towed it
slowly towards their vessel. We then lowered our boat
and went alongside the whaler, which proved to be the
"Ellen Jane" of Gaspe, commanded and owned by Mr.
Boyle, a respectable and kind-hearted man, who received
us on board with much civility, and was evidently much
gratified with the valuable capture his men had made. He
showed us through every part of his vessel with a subdued
cheerfulness and a thoughtful alacrity.

" And then in his pockets he made a grope,
And then, in the fulness of joy and hope,
Seemed washing his hands with invisible soap,
In imperceptible water."

We witnessed the process of cutting the blubber off the
carcass of the whale, which was done with a sharp instru-
ment with a long handle called a spade, the men while
they used it standing upon the floating body of their
victim. We remained looking on until one of the fins was
cut off and hoisted on board the vessel, and this required
the strength of four able-bodied men with a powerful tackle
to effect, and until Mr. Boyle had caused a large piece of
the flesh resembling an immense round of beef, to be put
into our boat — during the whole of which the unfortunate
old whale kept snorting and snoring and blowing around
us, showing many symptoms of rage and fury, which
caused us to remark to Mr. Boyle that " his was a dan-

8 2

260

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

gerous occupation," when he replied that " if the Almighty
had gifted the whale with a knowledge of his strength, few
indeed would be caught."

1. Hand Harpoon. 2. Pricker.

4. Gun Harpoon.

3. Blubber Spade.
5. Lance.

We then took our leave of this worthy man and his
companions, and a breeze springing up, which soon freshened

WHALING ANECDOTE. 261

to a gale, we lost sight, probably for ever, of those who
had afforded us an opportunity of beholding one of the
most exciting spectacles which the world can afford.

During the succeeding part of this voyage we breakfasted
and dined frequently off the portion of the whale which fell
to our share of the spoil, the lean of which was really
excellent, and when cut into slices and broiled indis-
tinguishable from tender beef-steak ; the fat I did not
admire, the smell of it bringing forcibly to my recollection
the odour of the oil lamps with which the darkness used
to be rendered visible in the city of Dublin in my younger
days.

As may easily be imagined, the circumstances of this
whale hunt dwelt forcibly upon our imaginations, and
elicited a good deal of comment and conversation, and
many anecdotes were related which we had heard or read
of whale fishing ; amongst the latter was one narrated by
a writer in the (( Quarterly Review " some years ago, and
is in substance as follows : —

" One of a ship's company — or an officer — in the North
Pacific, near the close of a day that had been rather 'stormy,
says that a school of young bull whales made their appear-
ance close to the ship ; and the weather having cleared up
a little, the captain ordered the mate to lower his boat,
while he did the same with his own, in order to go in pur-
suit of them. The two boats were instantly lowered ; they
soon got near the whales, bat were unfortunately seen by

8 3

262 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

them before they could dart the harpoon with any chance
of success, and the consequence was, that the school of
whales separated, and went off with great swiftness in dif-
ferent directions. One, however, after making several
turns, came at length right toward the captain's boat,
which he observing waited in silence for his approach,
without moving an oar ; so that the young bull came close
by his boat, and received the blow of the harpoon some
distance behind his hump, and so near to the ship as to be
seen by all on board.

"The whale appeared quite terror-struck for a few
seconds, and then suddenly recovering itself darted off like
the wind, and spun the boat so quickly round that, when the
tug came upon the line she was within a miracle of being
upset. But away they went dead to windward, at the rate
of twelve pr fifteen miles an hour, right against a head sea,
which flew against and over the bows of the boat with un-
common force, so that she at times appeared to be plough-
ing through it, making a high bank of surf on each side.

" The second mate, having observed the course of the
whale and boat, managed to waylay them ; and when they
came near to him, which they speedily did, a f short warp '
was thrown, and both boats were soon towed at nearly the
same rate as the captain's boat had been before.

"The captain was now seen darting the lance at the
whale as it almost flew along, but he did not seem to do
so with any kind of effect, as the speed of the whale did

WHALING ANECDOTE. 263

not appear in the least diminished ; and in a very short
time they all disappeared together, being at too great a
distance to be seen with the naked eye from the deck.
The officer ran aloft, and by the aid of a telescope could
just discern from the mast-head the three objects, like
specks upon the surface of the ocean. At an alarming
distance he could just observe the two boats, with the
whale's head occasionally darting out before them, with a
good deal of ( white water ' or foam, which convinced him
that the whale was still running. He watched with the
glass until he could no longer trace them, and then called
to those on deck that they might take the bearing, by the
compass, of the direction in which he had lost sight of
them, so that they might continue to beat the ship up to
that quarter.

" It was now within half an hour of sunset, and there was
every appearance of the coming on of an ugly night ; indeed,
the wind began to freshen every moment, and an awkward
bubble of a sea soon to make. I remained aloft until I saw
the sun dip, angry and red, below the troubled horizon, and
was just about to descend when I was dreadfully shocked at
hearing the loud cry of ( a man overboard ' from all upon
deck. I looked astern, and saw with horror one of our
men grappling with the waves and calling loudly for help.
The ship was soon brought round, but in doing so she un-
avoidably passed a long way from the poor fellow, who still
supported himself by beating the water with his hands,

s 4

264 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

although he was quite unacquainted with .the art of
swimming. Several oars were thrown overboard the mo-
ment after he fell, but he could not reach them, though
they were near him ; and directly the ship brought up, a
Sandwich islander, who formed one of the crew, leaped
overboard and swam toward him, while at the same time
the people on deck were lowering a spare boat, which is
always kept for such emergencies.

" The good Sandwich islander struck out most bravely at
first, but finding that he was at some distance from the
ship, and being unable to see the man of whom he was in
search, on account of the agitated surface of the sea,
actually turned back through fear. The men in the boat
now plied their oars with all their strength, and were
making rapidly towards the drowning man, who, now and
then rapidly disappeared entirely from view, under the
seas which were beginning to roll. A sickening anxiety
pervaded all, as the boat passed onward to the spot where
the poor fellow still grappled convulsively, with the yield-
ing waters.

The boat, urged by man's utmost strength, sprang over
the boisterous waves with considerable speed, but arrived
half a minute too late to save the poor fellow from his
watery grave. He struggled strongly with the waves to
the last, when the foam of a broken sea roared over him,
and he disappeared for ever. The boat was rowed round
and round the fatal spot, again and again, until night fell,

PERILS CP THE DEEP. 265

and then she was slowly and reluctantly pulled to the ship
by her melancholy crew.

" The moment the unfortunate seaman disappeared, a
large bird of the albatross kind came careering along, and
alighted on the water at the very spot where the poor
fellow was last seen. It was a curious circumstance, which
served to heighten our horror, when we saw the carni-
vorous bird set itself proudly over the head of our com-
panion, and to remind us of the number of sharks that we
had so frequently seen of late, and of the horrible pro-
pensities of which we could not dare to think.

" By the time we had hoisted in the boat, it was quite
dark ; the wind, too, had increased to half a gale, with
heavy squalls. We had lost one of our best men, the bare
thought of which, in our circumstances, aroused a crowd
of heartrending ideas. Our captain and second mate,
with ten of the crew, had disappeared, and were by. that
time all lost or likely to be so. We, however, kept beat-
ing the ship to windward, carrying all the sail she could
bear, and putting about every twenty minutes. We also
continued to burn lights, and had a large vessel, containing
oil and ravelled rope, burning over the stern rail as a beacon
for them.

" Although all eyes were employed searching in every
direction for the boats, no vestige of them could be seen ;
and, therefore, when half-past nine o'clock came we made
up our minds that they were lost. There were not many

266 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

on board who did not think of home on that dreadful
night, there were not many among us whose thoughts did
not turn towards the cheerful fireside of their youth, which
at that moment they would have given all they possessed
to see once more. But at the very moment, when despair
was firmly settling upon us, a man from aloft cried out
that he could see a light right ahead of the ship. We all'
looked in that direction, and, in a few minutes, we could
plainly perceive it ; in a short time we were close up with
it, when, to our great joy, we found the captain and all
the men in the boats lying to the leeward of the dead
whale, which had in some measure saved them from the
violence of the sea.

" After securing the whale alongside, they all came on
board, when the sudden end of our poor comrade was
spoken of with sorrow from all hands, while their own
deliverance served to throw a ray of light amid the
gloom."

As we have trespassed upon our readers with one whale
story, we are .emboldened to give place to what an accredited
writer in the " Westminster Eeview " relates of an incident
in the Greenland whale-fishery : —

" One serene evening," says he, " in the middle of August'
1775, Captain Warrens, the master of a Greenland whale-
ship, found himself becalmed among an immense number
of icebergs, in about seventy-seven degrees of north latitude.
.On one side and within a mile of his vessel, these were of

THE FROZEN OCEAN. 267

immense height, and closely wedged together, and a suc-
cession of snow-covered peaks appeared behind each other,
as far as the eye could reach, showing that the ocean was
completely blocked up in that quarter, and that it had
probably been so for a long period of time. Captain
Warrens did not feel altogether satisfied with his situation,
but there being no wind he could not move one way or the
other, and he therefore kept a strict watch, knowing that
he would be safe as long as the icebergs continued in their
respective places. About midnight the wind rose to a gale
accompanied by thick showers of snow, while a succession
of thundering, grinding, and crashing noises gave fearful
evidence that the ice was in motion.

" The vessel received violent shocks every moment, for
the haziness of the atmosphere prevented those on board
from discovering in what direction the open water lay, or
if there actually was any at all on either side of them.
The night was spent in tacking, as often as any case of
danger happened to present itself, and in the morning the
storm abated, and Captain Warrens found to his great joy
that his ship had not sustained any serious injury. He
remarked with surprise that the accumulated icebergs,
which had the preceding evening formed an impenetrable
barrier, had been separated and disengaged by the wind,
and that in one place a canal of open sea wound its course
among them as far as the eye could discern.

" It was two miles beyond the entrance of this canal that

268 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

a ship made its appearance about noon. The sun shone
brightly at the time, and a gentle breeze blew from the
north. At first some intervening icebergs prevented
Captain Warrens from distinctly seeing anything but her
masts ; but he was struck with the strange manner in which
her sails were disposed, and with the dismantled aspect of
her yards and rigging. She continued to go before the
wind for a few furlongs, and then grounding upon the low
icebergs, remained motionless. Captain Warrens's curiosity
was so much excited that he immediately leaped into his
boat with several seamen and rowed towards her.

" On approaching he observed that her hull was miserably
weatherbeaten, and not a soul appeared on the deck,
which was covered with snow to a considerable depth. He
hailed her crew several times, but no answer was returned-
Previous to stepping on board, an open port-hole near the
main chains caught his eye, and on looking into it he
perceived a man reclining back in a chair with writing
materials on a table before him, but the feebleness of the
light made everything very indistinct. The party went
upon deck, and having uncovered the hatchway which they
found closed they descended to the cabin.

" They first came to the cabin which Captain Warrens
viewed through the port-hole. A tremor seized him as he
entered it. Its inmate retained his former position, and
seemed to be insensible to the presence of the strangers.
He was found to be a corpse, and a green damp mould had

THE FEOZEN OCEAN. 269

covered his cheeks and forehead, and veiled his eye-balls.
He had a pen in his hand, and a log-book lay before him,
the last sentence in whose unfinished page ran thus, e No-
vember llth, 1762. We have now been inclosed in the ice
seventeen days. The fire went out yesterday, and our
master has been trying ever since to kindle it again without
success. His wife died this morning. There is no relief.'

" Captain Warrens and his seamen hurried from the spot
without uttering a word. On entering the principal cabin
the fir,st object that attracted their attention was the dead
body of a female,- reclining on a bed in an attitude of deep
interest and attention. Her countenance retained the
freshness of life, and a contraction of the limbs alone
showed that her form was inanimate. Seated on the floor
was the corpse of an apparently young man, holding a steel
in one hand and a flint in the other, as if in the act of
striking fire upon some tinder which lay beside him. In
the fore part of the vessel several sailors were found lying
dead in their berths, and the body of a boy was crouched
at the bottom of the gangway stairs.

" Neither provisions nor fuel could be discovered any-
where ; but Captain Warrens was prevented, by the super-
stitious prejudices of his seamen, from examining the
vessel as minutely as he wished to have done. He there-
fore carried away the log-book already mentioned, and
returning to his own ship, immediately steered to the
southward, deeply impressed with the awful example which

270 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

he had just witnessed of the danger of navigating the polar
seas in high northern latitudes.

" On returning to England he made various inquiries
respecting vessels that had disappeared in an unknown
way ; and by comparing these results with the information
which was afforded by the written documents in his pos-
session, he ascertained the name and history of the impri-
soned ship and of her unfortunate master, and found that
she had been frozen in thirteen years previous to the time
of his discovering her imprisoned in the ice."

The most dreadful display of the whale's strength and
prowess, which, upon any occasion, was mentioned as being
authentically recorded, was that made upon the American
whale-ship "Essex," Captain Pollard, which sailed from
Nantucket for the Pacific Ocean in August 1819. Late
in the fall of the same year, when in latitude forty of the
South Pacific, a school of sperm whales was discovered,
and three boats were manned and sent in pursuit. The
mate's boat was struck by one of them, and he was obliged
to return to the ship in order to repair the damage. While
he was engaged in that work, a sperm whale, judged to be
eighty-five feet long, broke water about twenty yards from
the ship on her weather-bow. He was going at the rate of
about three knots an hour, and the ship at nearly the same
rate, when he struck the bows of the vessel just forward of
her chains.

At the shock produced by the collision of two such

A MALICIOUS WHALE. 271

mighty masses of matter in motion the ship shook like a
leaf. The seemingly malicious whale passed under the
ship, grazing her keel, and then appeared at about the
distance of a ship's length, lashing the sea with fins and
tail as if suffering the most horrible agony. He was evi-
dently hurt by the collision, and blindly frantic with
instinctive rage. In a few minutes he seemed to recover
himself, and started with great speed directly across the
vessel's course to windward. Meantime the hands on
board discovered the ship to be gradually settling down at
the bows, and the pumps were instantly rigged. While
working at them one of the men cried out, tf Grod have
mercy ! he comes again ! "

The whale had turned at about one hundred yards from
the ship, and was making for her with double his former
speed, his pathway white with foam. Bushing head on,
he struck her again at the bow, and the tremendous blow
stove her in. The whale dived under again and disap-
peared, and the ship foundered in ten minutes from the
first collision.

After incredible hardships and sufferings, in their open
boats, on the 20th of December the survivors of this
catastrophe reached the low island called Ducies. It was
a mere sandbank, nearly barren, and supplied them only
with water and wild-fowl. On this uninhabited island,
dreary as it was, three of the men chose to remain, rather
than again commit themselves to the uncertainties of the

272 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

sea. They have never since been heard of. On the 27th
of December the three boats, with the remainder of the
men, put away together for the island of Juan Fernandez,
2000 miles distant. The mate's boat was taken up by the
" Indian/' of London, on the 1 9th of February, ninety-
three days from the time of the catastrophe, with only
three living survivors.

The captain's boat was fallen in with by the " Dauphin,"
of Nantucket, on the 23rd of the same month, having only
two men living, whose lives had been eked out only
through that last resort of hunger, which humanity
shudders to think of. Out of a crew of twenty, five only
survived to make the ears of their hearers tingle at their
strange eventful history.

Another form of the perils of whale-fishing is illustrated
in the following incidents taken from the account of
Captain Belair, of the ship " Independence," of Boston : —

Early one morning, while cruising in the Pacific Ocean,
a whale appeared. Two of our three boats were sent to
capture it. They fastened to the whale, and were soon
drawn by this monster of the deep out of sight of the ship.
An hour or two passed away, when, suddenly, another
whale rose in the water, but a few yards from the vessel.
The temptation to attempt its capture was too strong to
be resisted. The captain ordered the remaining boat to be
lowered, and, leaving but one man and two boys to take
care of the ship, sprang into the boat with the rest of the
crew.

WHALING STORY. 273

Soon the harpoon was plunged into the whale, and they
were carried, with almost the speed of the wind, about
fifteen miles from the ship. Then the whale plunged per-
pendicularly into the depths of the ocean. It was not
long ere they saw him, fathoms deep in the crystal
waters, rushing up, with open jaws, to destroy the boat.
By skilfully sheering the boat, the whale missed his aim,
and again disappeared in the fathomless sea. Soon he
reappeared in the almost transparent abyss, again rushing
upward to attack the boat. Again he was foiled.

The third time he descended, and, as he arose, with in-
vigorated fury, he struck the boat in the centre of the
keel, threw it some fifteen feet into the air, and, scattering
the crew and fragments of the boat over the waves, again
plunged into the deep and disappeared. The captain and
the crew were now in the water, clinging to the pieces of
the demolished boat. They were fifteen miles from the
ship, and could not be seen from its deck. The other
boats were gone, they knew not where. Apparently, every
chance of rescue was cut off, and nothing awaited them
but a watery grave. It was noon. The hours passed
slowly away until six o'clock in the evening, and still they
were floating and drifting about, almost exhausted, upon
the heaving billows of the Pacific.

" Oh, how fervently I prayed," said one of these mariners,
when afterwards relating the scene, " that (rod would in-
terpose to save our lives ! I thought of my wife, of my

T

274 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

children, of my prayerless life, of the awful account I had
to render at the bar of Grod for grieving the Spirit, neglect-
ing the Saviour, and absenting myself from his sacra-
ments. All the horrors of the dreadful death which
threatened me were forgotten in the thought that I was
about to render up an account before the bar of (rod for
years of ingratitude and disobedience."

The sun had now disappeared behind the distant waves,
and the darkening shades of a dreary night were settling
down over the ocean. Just then they descried, dim in the
dusky distance, one of the absent boats returning to the
ship. It was, however, far off, apparently beyond the
reach of their loudest outcries. Impelled by the energies
of despair they simultaneously raised a shout, which
blended with the wash of the waves and the sighing of the
breeze, and the boat continued on its way. Again they
raised another shout, and it was also unavailing.

The shades of night were deepening, the boat rapidly
passing by them. Almost frenzied at their terrible condi-
tion they raised another cry. The sound of that distant
shriek fell faintly upon the ears of the boatmen, and they
rested on their oars. Another shout, which almost lace-
rated their throats, was raised, and the boat turned in pur-
suit. They were taken from the water and carried almost
lifeless to the ship.

Such are the dangers continually incurred in the whale
fishery. A boat, almost as frail as a bubble, approaches

LIFE AT SEA. 275

the side of a whale, slumbering upon the ocean, sixty or
eighty feet in length, and a harpoon is plunged into his
body. His efforts to destroy his tormentors or to escape
from them are terrific. The ocean is lashed into foam by
blows from his enormous flukes, which would almost dash
in the ribs of a man-of-war. Often he rushes at the boat
with lightning speed and with open jaws, and it is crushed
like an egg-shell in his mouth.

In this frightful warfare many are maimed and many
lives are annually lost. Yet it has its joys and emoluments,
for, if ordinarily successful, in the course of fifteen or
twenty years a whaleman will lay up a moderate compe-
tence for the rest of his days ; and meanwhile, notwith-
standing the unfavourable influences which are often at
work in the whale-ship, many are forming noble characters.

Although it is no genial soil, yet virtue, humanity, true
nobility, and the fear of Grod, can live and grow in a whale-
ship. We met them upon this occasion combined in
Mr. Boyle, which it would be ingratitude towards (rod's
grace not to acknowledge. But who, that knows it, would
choose a life in a whale-ship, or life anywhere at sea ?
Who does not rather say with one that knew whereof he
spake, —

" Eternal ocean ! old majestic sea !
Ever I love from shore to look on thee,
And sometimes on thy billowy back to ride,
And sometimes o'er thy summer breast to glide ,'

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276

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

But let me live on land, where rivers run,
Where shady trees may screen me from the sun,
Where I may feel, secure, the fragrant air;
Where, whatever toil or wearying pains I bear,
Those eyes which look away all human ill
May shed on me their still, sweet, constant light,
And the hearts I love may, day and night,
Be found beside me safe and clustering still."

CHAPTEE XIV.

SALMON FISHING IN THE MOISIE.

" To sit and muse in the pale moonlight,

Oh ! this indeed I love,
In the silent hours of eve, when bright
Are the shining stars above.

"But when with meditation struck,
My heart beats low and quick,
Much better by far I love to suck,
The end of a sugar stick."

STBACHAN'S LYRICS.

" Is thine a heart oppressed by care,

And dost thou seek relief?
I know a remedy so rare,
It is — a slice of beef.

" From all the world dost hide thy face,

Thy sorrows to conceal?
I know what will thine anguish grace —
A cut of roasted veal.

" Would' st thou drive every dark grief out,

And misery put thy foot on ?
Secure thyself a pot of stout,
And a broiled chop of mutton.

"Alone art thou, and desolate?

Art utterly forsaken?
If thou be so condemned by fate,
Take to — fried eggs and bacon.

" Standest thou in awe of wicked folks ?

Fly not in haste to cloisters ;

A refuge pleasanter by chalks,

Lies in — a score of oysters."

HEWABD'S REMAINS.

279

CHAP. XIV.

SALMON FISHING IN THE MOISIE.

AVING- in the former
chapter dwelt at such
length upon the mighty
monster of the St. Law-
rence, I do not think it
can be out of place to
mention here, that it is reported, and upon good authority,
that there are other ferocious and powerful fishes, occa-
sionally to be met in this river, who do not hesitate to
attack men and boats.

At this moment I have before me an official " Eeport of
the Commissioners for exploring the country lying between
the Kivers Saguenay, Saint Maurice, and Saint Lawrence,"
ordered to be printed by the House of Assembly on the
22nd of March, 1831. These Commissioners are gentlemen
of the highest respectability and intelligence, Messieurs
Andrew and David Stuart, who would not be likely to be
deceived in a matter of the kind, and would be the last

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280 SALMON" PISHING IN CANADA.

men to attempt a deception upon others. At pp. 16 and 17
of their report, are the following words, being an extract
from the Journal kept upon the occasion.

"Sunday, August 26th, 1829. — Embarked at 7 A.M. to
go down to Baie de 1'EchafTaud du Basque, or Eiviere
aux Canards ; but, when we reached the Point of Baie des
Roches, the wind blew too hard for us to proceed, and we
put ashore in a little cove till noon, when we embarked
again, and kept close in shore, with the tide and wind in
our favour. We had not proceeded far, when we were
pursued by a monstrous fish of prey, in consequence of
which we put ashore again. This animal was four hours
about us, and apparently watching us. It came some-
times within twenty feet of the rock on which we were.
It was at least from twenty to twenty-five feet long, and
shaped exactly like a pike ; its jaws were from five to six
feet long, with a row of large teeth on each side, of a
yellowish colour. It kept itself sometimes for nearly a
minute on the surface of the water. At 5 P.M., seeing
nothing more of it, we embarked again, keeping close in
shore, and at 7 P.M. put in for the night at the fishing-hut
at Echaffaud du Basque. Two men, named Baptiste
Simard and Coton Felion, who were on their way to
Malbay, hunting for seals, put in at the same time as we
did. Thermometer 71°, 77°, and 69°."

THE MOISIE.

281

We must make short work of the salmon fishing in the
Moisie, and on the authority of Mr. Cayley say, that the
best fishing is about a mile below the falls, and that late
in the season fishing is bad at the falls — and now put up
our rod.

CANADIAN MUSIC.

285
AVE MAEIA.

DOKX.

1

A - ve Mari - a ! Carvoi-cil'heure sainte La cloclie
cres.

tin-te, A-ve Mari - a! Tous les petits Anges Au front radi - eux,
Doux.

Chantent vos louanges, 0 Heine des cieux ! A-ve Mari - a ! Car voi-

ci 1'heure sainte La cloche tin-te,

dim.

A-ve Mari - a ! Tout

S mm pf, * . N

i

dortsoi;

usvotreaile L'enfant auberceau, Lapauvre hiron - delle Dans

. I N N. I > N. . N . |

son nid d'oi - seau j A-ve Mari - - a ! Car voi - ci 1'heure

-P>

t

sainte La cloche tin - te, A--ve Ma-ri - - a!

Vous etes la voile

Du pauvre marin j
Vous etes 1'etoile
Du bon pelerin ^

Ave Maria !
Car voici 1'heure sainte
La cloche tinte

Ave Maria !
Vous etes servante

Des pauvres blesses j
Vous etes 1'amante
Des coeurs de'laisse's.
Ave Maria ! «fec.

Votre nom si tendre

Sur un front mortel,
Fait toujours descendre
La beaute du ciel

Ave Maria !
Car voici 1'heure sainte
La cloche tinte

Ave Maria !
Aussi les Maries

En choeur gracieux,
A vous re"unies

Montent vers les cieux !
Ave Maria ! &c.

286

UN CANADIEN ERRANT.

p

I

Un Cana - dien errant Banni de ses foyers Parcourait

i

J-^4BcrnriTOrm

en pleurant Des pays e*tran - - gers Parcourait en pleurant

Des pays etran-gers Parcourait en pleurant Des pays etrangers.

Un jour, triste et pensif
Assis au bord des flots,

Au courant fugitif
II addressait ces mots :

Si tu vois mon pays,
Mon pays malheureux,

Va dire a mes amis,

Que je me souviens d'eux.

" Pour jamais separ^

Des amis de mon cceur,
Helas ! oui, je mourrai,
Je mourrai de doleur.

" Plonge dans les malheurs,

Loin de mes chers parens,
Je passe dans des pleurs
D'infortunes moments."

APPENDIX

APPENDIX.

I.

The Decrease, Restoration and Preservation of Salmon in Canada.
By the REV. WILLIAM AGAR ADAMSON, D.C.L.

BRILLAT SAVARIN, in his " Physiologic du Gout," asserts that the
man who discovers a new dish does more for the happiness of "the
human race than he who discovered the Georgium Sidus. If this
be true, then he who could devise means for the preservation
and increase of an old, wholesome, and highly coveted article of
food would not labour in vain, nor would, I imagine, his endea-
vours be despised by the members of the Canadian Institute, how-
ever humble his abilities, and however unskilled he might be in
scientific lore. Actuated by this belief, as well as desirous to
respond to the demand for co-operation among the members of the
Canadian Institute, I would venture now to give some notes
upon the decrease, restoration and preservation of the Salmon
(Salmo Salar) in Canada.*

It is unnecessary to magnify the importance of this fish as an
economic production, or as an article of commerce. As food it is
beyond comparison the most valuable of fresh water fish, both on
account of the delicacy of its flavour, and the numbers in which
it can be supplied. By prudence, a little exertion, and a very
small expense now, it may not only be rendered cheap and acces-

* This valuable paper was first prepared for the Canadian Institute. — J.E.A.

U

290 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

sible to almost eveiy family in Canada, but also an article of no
small commercial importance as an export to the United States,
in which country, by pursuing the course which Canada has
hitherto imitated, this noble fish has been almost exterminated.
Twenty-five or thirty years ago every stream tributary to the St.
Lawrence, from Niagara to Labrador on the north side, and to
Gaspe Basin on the south, abounded with salmon. At the pre-
sent moment, with the exception of a few in the Jacques Cartier,
there is not one to be found in any river between the Falls of
Niagara and the city of Quebec. This deplorable decrease in a
natural production of great value has arisen from two causes :
1st. — the natural disposition of uncivilised man to destroy at all
times and at all seasons whatever has life and is fit for food ; and
2nd. — the neglect of those persons who have constructed mill
dams, to attach to them slides, or chutes, by ascending which the
fish could pass onwards to their spawning beds in the interior.
It is supposed by many that the dust from the sawmills getting
into the gills of the salmon prevents them from respirating freely,
and so banishes them from the streams on which such mills are
situated ; but I am persuaded that this is a mistake, for salmon
are found in considerable numbers at the mouths of many such
streams, below the dams. In the Marguerite, in the Saguenay,
at the Petit Saquenay, the Es-quemain, Port Neuf, Eimouski,
Metis, and others that might be named, the real cause of the
decrease is the insuperable obstacles presented by mill-dams,
which prevent them from ascending to the aerated waters, high
up the streams, which are essential for the fecundation of their
ova, and so for the propagation of the species. Would you then
— it may be asked — pull down our mills in order that we might
have salmon in our rivers ? most certainly not, I reply, for it is
quite possible to maintain all our mills, with all their mill-dams,
and yet afford to the fish an easy and inexpensive mode of passing
upwards to their breeding places.

APPENDIX.

291

Marvellous stories are told of the great heights which salmon
will leap in order to surmount the obstacles which nature or art
may have erected between the lower parts of a stream and the
upper waters which are suited to breeding purposes. Natural
historians used gravely to tell us that salmon, in -order to jump
high, were in the habit of placing their tails in their mouths, and

CANADIAN SALMON LEAPS.

then bending themselves like a bow, bound out of the water to a
considerable distance, from twelve to twenty feet. The late Mr.
Scrope, inhisbeautifulbook " Days and Nights of Salmon Fishing,"
calculates that six feet in height is more than the average spring
of salmon, though he conceives that very large fish in deep water
could leap much higher. He says, " Large fish can leap much
higher than small ones ; but their powers are limited or augmented

U2

292 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

according to the depth of water they spring from ; in shallow

water they have little power of ascension, in deep they have the

most considerable. They rise very rapidly from the very bottom

to the surface of the water by means of rowing and sculling as it

were with their fins and tail, and this powerful impetus bears

them upwards in the air, on the same principle that a few tugs

of the oar make a boat shoot onwards after one has ceased to

row." However this may be, we know that salmon use almost

incredible efforts to ascend their native rivers. Modes have

recently been adopted in France, in England, Scotland and

Ireland, by which they can do so with ease, and which can be

much more cheaply applied to mill-dams in Canada than in any

of the countries above mentioned. This is simply by constructing

below each mill-dani a congeries of wooden boxes proportioned to

the height of the dam — which could be done, in any weirs I have

seen requiring them, for a sum not exceeding twenty dollars.

We will suppose that the mill-dam to be passed over is fifteen

feet high from the surface of the water, and that the salmon can

surmount the height of five feet at a single bound, then it would

be only necessary to erect two boxes, each five feet high, one

over the other (as in the illustration) to enable the salmon, in

three leaps, to reach the waters which nature prompts him to

seek for the propagation of his species. In many Canadian

rivers — such as Metis, Matane, Rimouski, Trois Saumons, &c. —

this simple apparatus might be put in operation for one half the sum

I have mentioned, and I trust it has only to be suggested to the

gentlemen residing on their banks to arouse their patriotism and

excite them to activity in the matter. There can be no doubt

that were the mill-dams removed, or boxes constructed adjacent

to them, and protection afforded to the spawning fish, many of

the rivers in Upper Canada would again abound with salmon.

I have myself, within a few years, taken the true Salmo Salar in

Lake Ontario, near Kingston, and many persons in Toronto know

APPENDIX. 293

that they are taken annually at the mouths of the Credit, the
Humber, and at Bond Head, in the months of May and June,
which is earlier than they are generally killed below Quebec.
Whether these fish come up the St. Lawrence in the early spring,
under the pavement of ice which then rests upon its surface, or
whether they have spent the winter in Lake Ontario, is a question
which I must leave to naturalists : merely mentioning that there
is some foundation for believing that salmon will not only live,
but breed, in fresh water without visiting the sea. Mr. Lloyd, in
his interesting work on the field sports of the North of Europe,
says, " Near Katrineberg, there is a valuable fishery for salmon,
ten or twelve thousand of these fish being taken annually.
These salmon are bred in a lake, and, in consequence of cataracts,
cannot have access to the sea. They are small in size and inferior
in flavour," which may also be asserted of salmon taken in the
neighbourhood of Toronto. Mr. Scrope, in his work previously
quoted, states that Mr George Dormer, of Stone Mills, in the
Parish of Bridport, put a female of the salmon tribe, which
measured twenty inches in length, and was caught by him at his
mill-dam, into a small well, where it remained twelve years,
became quite tame and familiar, so as to feed from the hand, and
was visited by many persons of respectability from Exeter and its
neighbourhood.

But the fact that salmon are annually taken near the Credit, the
Humber and Bond Head is sufficient ground on which to base my
argument for the probability that were the tributary streams of
the St. Lawrence accessible to them they would ascend and again
stock them with a numerous progeny. Even were this found not to
be the case, — then we have the system of artificial propagation to
fall back upon — a system which according to the Parliamentary
Reports of the Fishery Commissioners has been practised with
immense success in different parts of Ireland — according to M.
Coste, Member of the Institute, and professor of the college of

u 3

294 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

France, in his reports to the French Academy and the French
Government, has answered admirably in France, and according
to Mr. W. H. Fry and others, quoted by him in his treatise on
artificial fish-breeding, has been generally effective in Scotland.
This system, as is well known, consists simply in transporting
from one river to another the impregnated eggs of the salmon,
and placing them in shallow waters with a gentle current, where
they are soon hatched, and become salmon fry or par and able to
take care of themselves. In consequence of the ova of the salmon
which are deposited in the spawning beds in the months of
October, November, and December, becoming congealed by frost
in the subsequent months, Canada appears to offer greater facili ties
for their safe transport than those countries in which the system
has been so successful, but whose climates are more temperate.
Surely, supposing this is a mere untried experiment — which is far
from being the case — it would be well worth the while of some of
the many wealthy and intelligent dwellers upon the banks of our
beautiful rivers to test its value, particularly when they call to
mind the well-known fact in the natural history of the salmon,
that he invariably returns to the stream in which his youth was
spent, and that so they may calculate upon having their present
barren rivers stocked with as valuable articles of consumption and
of commerce as their fowl-houses or their farm-yards.

I shall for brevity Is sake abstain from enlarging on this subject,
merely observing that ample information can be obtained upon it
by consulting the works of M. M. Coste and Fry, which are to be
found in the libraries and bookshops in this city* ; and that in the
streams in which it may be put into operation — if there are mill-
dams upon them — the artificial construction to enable the fish to
descend and ascend to and from the sea will still be requisite.

Having said so much on the decrease and restoration of salmon

* Quebec.

APPENDIX. 295

;in Canada, let us now turn our attention for a few moments to their
preservation in the rivers in which they still abound. These rivers
I believe to be as valuable and inexhaustible as any others upon the
face of the globe; but so circumstanced that their capabilities have
not been developed, and that one year of neglect will cause their
serious injury, if not their utter destruction as salmon streams.
They extend along the northern shore of the St. Lawrence from
Quebec to Labrador, a distance of about 500 miles, and are many
in number. They are chiefly held under lease from the Govern-
ment of Canada, by the Hudson's Bay Company, who fish some of
them in an unsystematic manner, with standing nets, because they
can be conveniently and cheaply so fished, whilst others are left
wholly to the destructive spear of the Indian. In the smaller
streams on which the fishermen of the company are employed, a
series of standing barrier nets (which kill indiscriminately every
fish of every size and weight) is used, a process which in Euro-
pean rivers would have long since banished salmon from them.
But in Canada the high water in the spring enables some of the
largest and strongest of the breeding fish to ascend the streams
before those nets can be set, and when they get beyond them,
they are comparatively safe in the mountain rivers and lakes,
which never hear a human footfall till winter — which congeals
their surfaces into ice — tempts the poor Indian to tread their
banks in pursuit of the bear, the martin, the mink, and the
otter.

In well regulated salmon fisheries in Europe, the fish — by the
construction of proper weirs and reservoirs — are almost as much
under the control of the managers as the sheep on their farms or
the fowl in their poultry yards. They can send such of them as
they please to market, permit the fittest for the purpose to pass on
to propagate their kind, allow the young to enjoy life till they
become mature, and suffer the sick and unhealthy to return to
their invigorating pastures in the depth of the ocean. But

U4

296 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

no portion of this system is practised in our American rivers.
There is not a salmon weir in the province ; and the consequence
is, that young and old, kelt and grilse, worthless and un-
wholesome, the fish are killed by the undiscriminating net and
the cruel spear.

It appears to me that the Hudson's Bay Company set little
value on these fisheries, and maintain them merely as an accident
appertaining to the far trade which is far more profitable. The
approaching termination of their lease and the consequent un-
certainty of their tenure may perhaps appear a sufficient reason
for their not incurring the expense of erecting weirs, by which
much more profit could be made of their fisheries. Unproductive
and wasteful as their mode of fishing is, the protection the Hudson's
Bay Company affords is the only present safeguard for the exis-
tence of Salmon in Canada. I am persuaded that were that pro-
tection withdrawn for ONE SUMMER, without the substitution of some
other as effective, this noble fish would be utterly exterminated
from our country. Fishermen from Gaspe, Eimouski, New Bruns-
wick, Labrador, Newfoundland, the Magdalene Islands and the
United States — whose numbers and skill would enable them to do
thoroughly what the servants of the H. B. C. from their paucity
and inexperience do ineffectually — would swarm up our rivers,
and with nets, spears, torches, and every other engine of piscine
destruction, would kill, burn and mutilate every fish that ven-
tured into the rivers. Already has this been attempted. For
the last two or three years schooners from the United States have
regularly arrived, in the salmon season, at the Bay of Seven Is~
lands, their crews well armed, and have set their nets in the
river Moisie, in despite of the officers of the H. B. C. Similar
circumstances have occurred at other fishing stations in the tri-
butaries of the St. Lawrence ; no means, that I am aware of,
having been resorted to for punishing the aggressors or prevent-
ing a repetition of their outrages. The river Bersinies has this

APPENDIX. 297

year (1856) been altogether in the hands of a speculating and
rapacious American, who employed the spear of the Indian to
furnish him with mutilated salmon, several boxes of which he
brought to Quebec, in the month of September when they were
out of season, unfit for food, and flavourless, having previously
glutted the markets of Portland, Boston and New York with more
palatable fish.

There can be but little doubt that many of the salmon streams
in Lower Canada would be as productive, under proper manage-
ment, as rivers in Europe for which large annual rents are paid ;
but it must be admitted that the great distance at which they are
situated from civilisation, the want of the means of intercourse
between them and the inhabited parts of the country, the
liability to trespass by armed ruffians, and the dreadful rigor of
the climate in winter, present very serious obstacles to those who
might wish to undertake such management : for obviating some
of which I see no better method than the employment, during the
summer months, of one or two armed steamers of light draught
of water, such as are used for a similar purpose on the east coast
of Denmark. These steamers should each have a commander on
board, who should be a magistrate and empowered by parliament
to act summarily in cases of infraction of the Fishery Laws, and
besides supplying the lighthouses and other public works with
stores, oil, building materials, etc., conveying the workmen man-
agers and fishermen to their several stations, and protecting the
lessees of the province, might also be profitably employed as the
means of transporting the fresh caught salmon from the several
rivers, packed in ice, to the Railroad Stations at St. Thomas
and Quebec; from whence they could be distributed to the
markets of Canada and the United States. Two Bills for the pro-
tection of salmon and trout in Lower Canada have recently become
Acts of Parliament. These may possibly be productive of some
good in civilised and inhabited districts, but must be utterly in-

298 SALMON FISHIXG IX CANADA.

effective in those parts of the province where there are no settled
inhabitants, no magistrates, and no tribunals before which those
who infringe the law can be cited; and this is the case of all the
best rivers in Lower Canada.

I cannot close these observations without endeavouring to im-
press on all who hear me the necessity for prompt action in this
matter ; for there can be no doubt upon the mind of any man
who is acquainted with the localities, that if the King's Posts
should be abandoned by the Hudson's Bay Company, before some
well devised system be adopted for carrying on the work which
they have hitherto effected, two melancholy results will be the
inevitable consequences, viz. — the salmon rivers will be taken
possession of by hordes of lawless men, who will in no way con-
tribute to the revenue of the country, but will quickly and
recklessly exterminate the fish, and then desert our shores, leaving
behind them no trace of their temporary occupation except the
destruction they have wrought ; and — more terrible still — a whole
tribe of Indians (the Montagnards) will be reduced to a state of
positive starvation, for upon the Hudson's Bay Company they
have hitherto been, and are now, dependent for their ammunition,
guns, and other means by which they obtain their food and
clothing.

APPENDIX. 299

II.

Observations on the Habits of the Salmon Family. By W. HENRY,
ESQR. Inspector General of Hospitals *

THE physical structure of fishes, so beautifully adapted to the
nature of the element in which, they live, has been the subject of
especial notice and admiration amongst naturalists and philo-
sophers, ancient and modern. The wedged-shaped head — the
gradual and well proportioned enlargement of the body — the
skilful machinery of the fins — the mailed and glossy skin — the
ballasting air-bladder, and the rudder-tail, evince the wisdom,
as the magnitude of the leviathans of the ocean show the power,
of their Creator. But the use of the delicate painting with
which the skins of many fishes are so richly adorned is not
so apparent; and on a superficial view, it would almost seem
to be a waste of bright colours lavished amidst the dim twilight
of the deep. Yet we may be well assured from all analogy, that
even this rich tinting of the mute tribes inhabiting the waters has
not been bestowed on them without an object : and farther even,
that it may serve purposes of the greatest importance in the
economy of nature.

The tiny lamp of the glow-worm and the fire-fly is delicately
beautiful ; but it is also believed to be of great value as a minute
beacon, governing and directing the movements of the male in-
sect towards the female. Thus it is not improbable that the

* Dr. Henry was one of the best fishermen in Canada, and a very-
intelligent man ; he wrote much and well. — J. E. A.

300 SALMON FISHING IX CANADA.

gorgeousness of the skins of many fishes is a point of attraction
between the genders, keeping up the gregariousness of the dif-
ferent fanlilies amidst the vast aqueous spaces they traverse.
However this may be, the painted skin of the fish, considered
merely as ornamental, harmonises with the rich fur of the quad-
ruped, the brilliant plumage of the bird, the umbrageous foliage
and blossoming glory of the tree ; and, above all, the exquisite
adornment of the flower. All should be viewed as boons from the
great Source of measureless beneficence. We can conceive that
a dull monotonous uniformity of shape, and sombre, melancholy
colours, might have characterised the animal and vegetable
kingdoms ; but it has pleased the Deity to fill the heavens and
the earth, and even the waters under the earth, with beauty, and
to confer on his rational creature, man, the capacity to comprehend
and enjoy it.

Conspicuous amongst the finny tribes, as well for the quality of
the delicious flesh, as for great elegance of colouring and symme-
try of form, are the Salmonioz or Salmon family : but principally,
according to my conception, is the Salmo Salar or common
salmon, which has been appropriately placed by Cuvier, at their
head. In fact, we can scarcely conceive anything more perfect
than the tout ensemble of this noble fish. He is moulded in
accordance with our notions of great muscular strength, com-
bined with remarkable lightness of outline : and every quality of
the animal corresponds with his appearance. His tunic of rich
silver tissue is in the chastest taste ; his movements in his own
element are peculiarly easy and graceful : he is fastidious in his
food, as a fish of such high blood ought to be ; but he can on
emergency bear hunger well, and even total abstinence for a long
period without injury. His spirit is ardent, adventurous, and
persevering, and his speed is great.

It has been my fortune to be conversant with the habits of the
salmon from early youth, in a river in the north of Ireland, on the

APPENDIX. 301

banks of which I was born. This association has been extended
in after life to many other salmon rivers, in different parts of
the world, where I have enjoyed the pleasures of " the angle." I
am enabled, therefore, from personal observation, to communicate
some particulars respecting the natural history of the fish, which,
probably, are not generally known, and may be, to a certain extent,
interesting to the members of the Literary Society of Quebec.

The Salmo Salar is placed by Cuvier at the head of the fourth
family of the Malacopterygii, or soft-finned fishes. In a paper of
this light and desultory nature, it does not appear necessary to
describe its generic characteristics more minutely. It is an in-
habitant of cold, or temperate climates, to the north of the equa-
tor ; having never been found in the south. Indeed, such is the
dislike of this fish for a warm climate, that it is very rarely seen
in Europe southward of the 45th or 46th degree of latitude, but
it abounds in the northern waters of the old world as it does in
the new. Salmon run from the Pacific up the Columbia river,
as from the Atlantic into the St. Lawrence. The rivers of the
Polar regions swarm with salmon during the short summer, and
they are caught there in prodigious numbers. Commander Boss
obtained a ton weight of the fish from the Esquimaux in exchange
for a sailor's knife, value about sixpence ; and his men afterwards
took 3300 salmon at a single haul of the seine.

The rivers of Newfoundland and the Labrador coast contain
abundance of these fish, which are also caught, but in diminish-
ing numbers, in the streams of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.
They are found in the Kennebec and Connecticut rivers, and a
stray fish may be sometimes taken in the Hudson and the Dela-
ware ; but this is a rare occurrence. Salmon never ascend the
Mississippi.

Norway is said to be the finest salmon country in the world.
These fish go up the Rhine as far as the falls of Schaffhausen>
which they cannot surmount. They are found in the Loire, but

302 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

I believe do not frequent any rivers farther south. In Gascony
I have fished numerous streams, the tributaries of the Garonne
and Adour, adapted as they would appear to be to the taste of
the fish for cool waters, by the melting of the Pyrengean snow,
but never met with, or heard of, the Salmo Salar ; and very
seldom found any trout, the smaller members of the family. I
have also fished with much care several of the Spanish and Por-
tuguese rivers, but never found a salmon or trout in any of
them.

No salmon are to be met with in the Mediterranean, nor any of
its rivers. They are also strangers to- the Caspian and Black
Seas ; though a large coarse fish, bearing some resemblance to the
Salmo Salar, called the Hucho, is found in the Danube.

Most intelligent persons are aware that the salmon is a great
and intrepid traveller, migrating annually from the sea to the
fresh water, and ascending the largest rivers to their distant
sources. Influenced by unerring instinct, it quits the deep sea
in spring or early summer, and repairs to the estuary of its native
stream. It remains some days in the brackish water ; probably
to prepare the gills for the great change in the fluid they will
have to breathe. At the mouths of small rivers the fish generally
wait for a flood ; moving up and down with the tide until the
stream swells. The salmon then boldly pushes on, dashing
through rapids, and even overleaping dams or other impediments
in its way. After the first rush from the salt water, it avails itself
of the convenient resting place of a deep pool, or other spot where
the current is gentle, to draw breath for some hours, or even a
day, if the stream is strong and rapid. It there recovers its wind,
and recruits its strength with a fly or a grasshopper as they float
down the river. The fish thus gradually approach the upper and
shallower parts of the streams they frequent ; journeying by day
when the weather is cloudy, or the water sufficiently muddy to
mask their movements ; but when the river is clear they travel

APPENDIX. 303

by night — particularly if there is a inoon ; otherwise very early
in the morning. They seldom move, I believe, in the evening ;
but then, when flies are most numerous, look out for food. At
length the salmon reaches his destination high up the stream,
where he may look out for a mate, and take measures for the
important business of propagating his kind.

When a strong rapid, or even a fall of a few feet, occurs in
the course of our adventurous traveller's voyage, the obstacle is
surmounted without much difficulty. But when the stream is
deep and full and the fall considerable, the impediment becomes
a serious matter, and the poor fish stops and is sadly puzzled how
to overcome it. He soon begins to reconnoitre his position,
exploring in all directions for a passage, and leaping frequently
several feet out of the water, apparently with the object of dis-
covering the topography of the scene of his difficulties from this
elevation. When he finds the obstacle insurmountable, he is
obliged to wait till the river falls ; or, in the event of the place
being within the range of the salt water, which sometimes hap-
pens, until a spring-tide comes to his assistance.

There are many salmon-leaps in Europe — particularly in the
British Islands and in Norway. Two of the most remarkable
are at Coleraine and Ballyshannon in the north of Ireland.
With the latter of these I am very well acquainted.

The large and very beautiful lake, Loch Erne, fifty miles
long by ten or twelve broad, pours its waters into the Atlantic
by a short and rapid river, which, after an impetuous course from
Belleek, and a last fall of fifteen or sixteen feet at Ballyshannon,
meets the tide at the bottom of a perpendicular ledge of limestone
rock. En passant I may remark that Sir Humphrey Davy in
his " Salmonia " praises the Erne as the best salmon river he ever
fished ; and I think very justly. The sea is only three miles
distant from the fall ; and in early summer innumerable salmon
run up the river and assemble in " the pool," as the abyss below

304 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the rock is called, checked in their career by this formidable
barrier. In the course of a week many thousands are here col-
lected, waiting, as it would almost appear, for a spring- tide to raise
the water in the pool and lower their leap. In the meantime they
are taken in the seine in great numbers — sold on the spot, or
shipped off, either pickled or in ice, to London. In the year 1808
I saw 600 salmon taken there in one haul : two of which, weigh-
ing fifty-four and fifty-six pounds, were afterwards exhibited as
curiosities in the fish-house.

Men, however, are not here the only fishers. Seals follow
the salmon from the sea and prey upon them in the pool, pur-
suing them with greater speed and success than the unwieldy
appearance of these amphibious creatures would lead one to
expect. But these daring poachers, who thus imprudently ven-
ture into the presence of the lords of the creation, are generally
shot — very often in flagrante delicto, as they emerge from the
froth at the bottom of the fall, with salmon writhing in their
mouths.

The Ballyshannon salmon leap is a scene of much curiosity
and interest, particularly during spring-tides, when the weather
is fine, and then attracts a great number of spectators. As the
water rises the fish begin to leap — perhaps two or three hundred
in an hour. The young salmon very generally miscalculate the
direction they should take ; leaping perpendicularly out of the
water, and of course falling back immediately. • But the older
fish, many of which, no doubt, have been up before, and are
besides better mathematicians, manage differently. These dart
to the crest of the cataract in a line with the curve of the falling
mass, and there cling for some seconds, wriggling themselves into
the torrent. In this very difficult position they can only work
on the water with the pectoral and ventral fins ; the force of their
powerful tail, by which they had sprung from the bottom, being
now lost in beating the air. Many notwithstanding succeed, dip

APPENDIX. 305

into the water at the top and shoot up the river : but the great
majority — probably five-sixths of the number, fail, and after the
most gallant struggle are tumbled back into the pool.

At some of the salmon-leaps in Scotland, men are accustomed
to catch the fish in a large landing-net, with a long handle, as
they fall back after missing the leap. In Kilmarnock they tell a
story of the eccentric, and somewhat savage Lord Lovat, who
was beheaded on Tower-hill, which is characteristic of that noble-
man's peculiar disposition. He was wont to have a fire kindled
in a cleft of the rock close to a salmon-leap in a stream of that
neighbourhood. When it was approaching his dinner hour, he
would direct a pot of water to be placed on the fire to boil, in
the expectation that an unfortunate fish, after missing his leap,
might tumble over the edge of the rock into the boiling water,
and thus commit self-salmocide. The tradition is, that his lord-
ship often succeeded in this quaint but cruel experiment.

After the great effort of surmounting a considerable fall, the
successful fish rest during several hours in the first gentle current
they meet, before proceeding farther on their journey. Some
naturalists have estimated the first day's voyage of a salmon,
after entering the fresh water, at fifteen or twenty miles ; but it
is evident that the distance cannot be calculated accurately, and
must vary according to the nature of the stream. If the river is
rapid and obstructed by falls, the fish's stages must be short ; and
vice versa.

It appears to be necessary for the salmon to remain from two
to three months in the rivers for the due development of the
generative system, before pairing and the deposition of the spawn
can be effected. In the meantime the quality of the animal's
flesh deteriorates — the skin, which is a correct index of the con-
dition of the fish, changes from a silvery white to a tinge of reddish
brown, and then to a dirty black brown. The firmness of the
muscles softens ; the curd between their layers disappears, and

X

306 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the cutaneous fat is absorbed. As the excitement of the sexual
passion increases, the appetite for food ceases, and the salmon
emaciates daily. At length the flesh loses all its nutritive qualities
as human food, and becomes to a certain extent poisonous.

The food of salmon in the sea, whatever it is, is eminently
nutritive. The subject is still involved in obscurity, though some
clever naturalists have lately paid much attention to it. Dr. Knox,
who has written a scientific and able paper on the natural history
of the fish, which was published in the Transactions of the Royal
Society of Edinburgh for 1834, believes that he has discovered
the secret. He avers that salmon in the salt water feed prin-
cipally, if not wholly, on the eggs of the Asterias Glacialis, or
cross-fish, one of the Entomostraca, or testaceous insects. Now,
from the animal's teeth, one might think he lived on more sub-
stantial food than almost microscopic ova. But there is positive
evidence that cannot be doubted, of sand-eels and small fish
being eaten in the sea by salmon. Sir Wm. Jardine*, who made
an excursion to Sutherlandshire in 1834, for the purpose of
examining the natural productions of the -country, and paid par-
ticular attention to the habits of the salmon, states that they are
often taken on the Sutherland shores at the haddock lines, baited
with sand-eels, and in the Dirness Firth with lines set on purpose
with the same bait. And what is quite conclusive on the subject,
my friend Dr. Kelly, of the Royal Navy, informs me that in the
summer of 1835, when accompanying Capt. Bayfield, R.N., in
surveying the Gulf, he saw some salmon, recently caught, opened
by the fishermen at Gaspe, and observed three sand-eels and two
smelts in the stomach of one of them. Dr. Kelly adds that the
fishermen told him this was a common occurrence.

After entering the fresh water, it has been a question whether
salmon eat any food at all ; as the stomachs of many individuals

* Fourth Eeport of the British Association, p. 613.

APPENDIX. 307

have been opened at different times, by various persons, and
nothing could be discovered in them.

According to my experience, the case stands thus. When they
first ascend the rivers they will eat greedily enough — jump at
flies of every description without hesitation — devour worms,
grasshoppers, and even small fish. In the Lakes of Killarney they
are caught under these circumstances by trolling with both natural
and artificial minnow. At this period, as 'every salmon fisher
\nows, they will rise at his fly with eagerness. I have myself
found, in at least a dozen instances, the larva of insects, remains
of earth-worms, grasshoppers and various kinds of flies, in the
stomachs of salmon caught soon after quitting the sea. But, after
a month or six weeks' residence in the rivers, when the sexual
propensities and organs begin to receive their development, the
fish cease to eat, and then appear to be able to live for several
weeks without any food whatever.

Even before this time, and when they first run up the rivers,
salmon are capable of bearing a long fast without injury. At
Dayree's bridge on the Jacques Cartier river, nine leagues above
Quebec, there is a tank, or reservoir, fed by a copious spring
gushing out of the bank of the picturesque dell through which
that fine stream runs. In this receptacle the fish which are not
injured in being caught, are sometimes kept three weeks or a
month, until a sufficient number are collected to be sent to the
Quebec market. Under these circumstances, they continue in
good health, and do not appear to lose flesh.

There is a ford on the river Esk, about a mile to the eastward
of the town of Donegal in the north of Ireland, which in my
young days was a favourite resort of salmon in the breeding
season. The lower part of this ford, just above the commence-
ment of a small rapid, was generally the chosen spot. Here the
bottom consisted of loose gravel, the stream flowed gently, and,
in ordinary states of the river, the water was about twelve or

X 2

308 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

fourteen inches deep. Concealed in a .thicket at the root of some
willows on the bank, I have at this place, on more than twenty
occasions, witnessed for hours the interesting manoeuvres of the
fish.

With admirable instinct these creatures never select a stream
that is likely to dry up. It is essential, I believe, that the bed
or nest of the ova should be at the bottom of running water of
moderate depth, — not in too strong a current, which, during
floods, would be likely to carry off and destroy the deposite ; —
nor in a stagnant part of the river, where a mud sediment and
the want of water sufficiently aerated might choke the embryo
brood.

When the place is chosen, both fish set to work to scoop out a
proper hollow for the spawn. On every occasion I observed that
the female commenced the operation, as she had in all probability
selected the site of the bed. She is easily distinguished from the
male by her large and matronly size, as he is conspicuous by the
curious hooked appendage projecting upwards from the centre of
the lower jaw. The female then, in curious analogy with the
hen-bird, begins to make her nest, by digging into the gravel
with her belly and tail, sometimes poking a refractory pebble out
of the way with her nose. The male fish all the time keeps watch
in the immediate neighbourhood of his wife ; and although nature
has denied him the power of serenading her with a song, after
the fashion of the cock-bird, our gallant salmon does not the less
tenderly guard the privacy of his spouse, but swims round her
in a protecting circle, to prevent interlopers from disturbing her
in her interesting employment. When the lady-fish has worked
long enough, which may be from a quarter to half an hour, she
rests for a little, and the attentive husband takes her place im-
mediately and commences digging. — She then circles round and
watches over him in her turn. Indeed, there is much moral in-
terest excited by these proceedings ; and I may venture to add,

APPENDIX. 309

that the reciprocal punctuality and affection with which this
labour of parental providence is carried on by the silent pair, are
worthy of all imitation by more exalted husbands and wives.

Soon after the bed for the ova is finished, which is a trench
five or six feet long, and about a foot and a half in breadth and
depth, both fish remain for a short time in close dalliance imme-
diately above it. The roe is then deposited by the female, and
the fecundating milt shed over the eggs by the male. They then
simultaneously commence pushing the gravel they had previously
raised over the precious deposit ; and generally continue thus
occupied during the remainder of the day, filling up interstices
and completing the work at their leisure. I believe they then
retire, appearing to have done all that parental duty requires ;
and although I have watched carefully several times at the same
spot, I have never seen either fish in the neighbourhood the day
after the spawning.

European salmon generally spawn in October or November,
and the ova remain in their bed of gravel about 140 days. The
increasing heat of March and April then vivifies the brood, and
the young tadpole fish work their way by degrees out of the
nest, with the filmy envelope of the egg, like an umbilical cord,
still adhering to the belly. They grow with great rapidity, eat
with voracity, and will jump at a dragon-fly as big as one of them-
selves. In the latter end of April and the beginning of May,
they gradually drop down the rivers, keeping in the shallow water
near the edge, both to pick up their food and to avoid the attacks
of pikes or other ravenous fish. By the end of the first week
in June, they are all clear of the fresh water, under ordinary
circumstances.

These little fishes are extremely delicate, and will not bear
rough handling. They are incessantly rising at an angler's
flies, and I have caught some thousands of them and thrown them
in again. If the hook has only a slight hold of the mouth, and is

x 3

310 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

taken out with care and gentleness, they will swim away briskly,
quite uninjured ; but if the barb goes deep, or any roughness is
used, they are destroyed. An accidental fall on the ground from
the height of a foot or two, kills them immediately. Various
attempts have been made to transport them to fishponds from
their native streams, but, I believe, with uniform want of
success. I have several times made the experiment of removing
smelts, as the fry are called, in a bucket of water, to a fish-pond
adjoining the river, but fed from a different source. — None of
'them lived two hours.

Under these circumstances, it is probable that the most of the
stories we have been told of these delicate fry having been caught
and marked, and afterwards discovered in the course of the same
summer, grilses, or young salmon, four or five pounds weight,
are fictions; though there can be little doubt of their growth
in the sea being extremely rapid. In all probability the fry
which enter the salt water in the beginning of June, return in
September, or even earlier, small salmon. Shaw, in his Zoology
states that M. de la Lande fastened small rings of copper to the
tails of different individuals, and found that they returned during
three successive seasons. I have never been able to ascertain
this fact from my own experience, though I have caught some
dozens of fry, marked and liberated them, but in no instance had
the good fortune to meet with any of my little captives after-
wards.

The condition of the parent fish, after spawning, is very de-
plorable. They become so weak and thin that they can scarcely
stem the current of the river, and then usually seek the repose
of some deep hole where they may remain quiet, and to a certain
extent recover their strength. But they continue languid and
torpid during the winter, in a condition little better than that of
the hybernating animals. From the great emaciation of the
body, the head appears disproportionately large, and looks as if

APPENDIX. 311

it belonged to another fish. The flesh is white, or of a dirty
yellow ; tasteless and unhealthy. When hooked by the angler
under these circumstances, they are quite passive and helpless,
and suffer themselves to be dragged almost unresistingly to the
shore. In early spring they fall down the rivers, and, like other
valetudinarians, repair to the sea for the recovery of their
health.

From the peculiar structure of their single heart, the circula-
tion of the blood in most fishes is weak and venous, and without
the arterial vigour of terrestrial animals. Under certain circum-
stances, salmon will permit their body to be felt all over with
the hand, and even appear to derive some gratification from
gentle friction. I have repeatedly endeavoured to ascertain if there
was any beating of the heart or pulse in any part of the body, but
never could discover the least pulsation anywhere. Authorities
state, notwithstanding, that the heart of a large carp beats thirty-
six times in a minute. The salmon, being a larger fish, has pro-
bably a slower circulation, if we may judge from analogy with
respect to the mammalia. Man's heart contracts seventy-two
times in a minute — a horse's thirty-six, and an elephant's (as I
have myself ascertained) only twenty-four times. The respira-
tion of fishes is, I believe, quicker than is generally supposed.
From a mean of many observations made on seven salmon of
different sizes, in a reservoir fed by a copious stream, I found
that they breathe fifty-four times in a minute. Man's respiration
is twenty.

There is a peculiarity in the instincts of salmon worthy of
notice, viz. ; their almost invariable habit of returning from un-
known distances and depths of ocean to the 'streams where they
were bred. They may be forced by stress of weather, or the
pursuit of some of their natural enemies, into the mouth of a
strange river — like a ship driven by a storm into a hostile port —
but the vast majority find their way back to their native waters.

x 4

312 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

In the north of Ireland, and I believe all round the coast, the
fishermen will immediately point out a stray fish. For, although
the Salmo Salar is the same as to generic characteristics in every
part of the British Islands, still there are minute variations of
shape and colour between the fish of different rivers, only recog-
nisable by the keen eye of an experienced fisherman.

Some recent experiments on one of the Duke of Sutherland's
Scotch estates, if the accounts in the newspapers are correct,
would appear to confirm the general belief as to this local instinct.

It is stated, that in two branches of the Tay, no salmon had
ever been found, although these streams appeared sufficiently
favourable for their habits and propagation. In 1835, the Duke's
agent placed a pair of breeding fish in each stream. The rivers
were carefully watched and preserved — they bred ; and, true to
their instinct, the young fish in 1836 ascended those waters where
a salmon had never been seen before.

Like travellers on bad roads, these -fish undergo great fatigues,
and often suffer serious injuries in forcing their way up a power-
ful and rapid stream. They are driven by the current against
sharp and unseen rocks, and bruised and wounded more than
would be considered probable. The snout, with which they feel
their way when the water is muddy, is, under these circum-
stances, always excoriated, and generally rubbed white. The
fins too, particularly the pectoral fins, and even the tail, are often
found split ; the fine, but strong membrane that binds the rays,
having been torn by the violent efforts their toilsome journey
renders necessary. We had opportunities of seeing this every
summer at Dayree's bridge on the Jacques Cartier River, where
almost every salmon in the reservoir was thus wounded or disabled.
Indeed the poor fish have extraordinary difficulties to encounter
in that beautiful but most rapid stream.

I may here observe, that, although the distinguished epicures
of ancient Rome explored every known region for dainties to

APPENDIX. 313

furnish their luxurious boards, our noble fish never graced their
banquets. Apicius might load his table with wild boar, the
brains of swans and peacocks, and the tongues of larks and
nightingales; or even introduce mullet, turbot, or Colchester
oysters as a third course — but one exquisite dish was wanting —
he had no salmon.

Mutability is the characteristic of every thing human; and
often, even the transition from the most distant extremes of
luxury and penury is observable in nations, as in individuals.
In the same country where the proud lords of the world were
wont to give suppers to tributary kings, in saloons dedicated to
Jupiter or Venus, at an expense of 30 or 40,000/. the Patrician
now dines on a modicum of macaroni, value a few pence ; whilst
the descendants of the painted British barbarians, so despised by
the haughty Eomans, give, at the present day, the most sumptuous
entertainments in Eome ; and some years ago were wont to feed
even their domestic servants, in their own country, with a dainty
fish of far superior flavour to any that ever appeared on the table
of Lucullus or Augustus.

It is a fact, that about a hundred years ago, such was the
abundance of salmon in the Severn, the Humber, the Tyne, and
several other English and Welsh rivers, domestic servants sti-
pulated with their masters, when hiring, that they should not be
fed on this food more than twice a week. In Scotland and
Ireland the same agreement continued to be made to a much
later period, even in the memory of some old persons now living
on the banks of the Tweed, but with reference chiefly to the
salted fish. In those days they were unacquainted with the
mode of preserving the fish in ice, or even pickling them ; and
they had no steamboats to convey them in a few hours to
London.

It has been doubted whether the Salmo Salar of Europe, and
the salmon of the North American rivers, are identical. As far

314 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

as I am capable of judging, they appear the same fish. The shape,
colour, habits, conformation of the branchiae, number and posi-
tion of the fins and of their rays, form of the tail, and number of
the vertebras (61) are, I believe, generically the same. The flavour,
too, of the American fish, caught unfatigued and fresh from 'the
sea, under equal advantages of cookery and appetite, is not in-
ferior to that of his European brother.

About the middle of May the salmon begin to run up the St.
Lawrence, but not in any considerable numbers, till the middle
of June. They coast along on both sides, on the look-out for
their respective rivers, I presume ; but ascend along the north-
ern shore for the greater part, where the tributary streams are
clearer and more rapid, and pour in cooler water than those in
the south. They advance, I believe, with each tide, gradually
feeling their way, and running up the small rivers as floods or
other favourable circumstances invite them. Great numbers are
caught in the stake nets, or in wooden traps, with which both
shores are now thickly studded. The smaller branches of the
St. Lawrence absorb a large proportion. Many thousands, no
doubt, ascend the Ottawa, to breed amidst its remote streams un-
molested by man. Still, a large body push up the main river,
all the way to Lake Ontario. Arrived there, they move towards
the head of the lake, keeping close to both shores, but preferring
still the northern or Canadian side, in all probability for the
reason mentioned before. They are very rarely found at Kings-
ton, but are often speared along the shores of the Bay of Quinte*,
and at the mouth of the rapid river Trent. They are caught in
considerable numbers every year about Toronto, and in the
streams that run into the north-western extremity of Lake On-
tario, still in tolerable condition, notwithstanding the distance
from the sea and the difficulties of the journey. The flesh is a
little softer than that of our Quebec fish — the colour a fainter
pink, and the flavour not quite so rich ; but enough of its good

APPENDIX. 315

qualities remains to make it far superior to any of the Ontario
fish.

There is a large trout, or pseudo-salmon, in this magnificent
lake, which is sometimes confounded, by inexperienced persons,
with the Salmo Salar. It certainly resembles our favourite fish
a little in shape and colour ; but the head is coarse and clumsy,
and the number of the vertebras and figure of the tail are different.
There is also a generic difference in the fins, and the flesh is des-
titute of the rich red colour and genuine salmon flavour. I have
never heard of this fish having been caught out of the lake, and
am of opinion it does not visit the sea. It is probably identical
with the Salmo Eriox, or Bull-Trout, found in Loch AAV, in
Argyleshire, and three or four other lakes in Scotland.

The abyss at Niagara is the ne plus ultra of most of the Ontario
fish ; and innumerable sturgeon, bass, pickerel, pike, eels, white
fish (a splendid corregonus), cat-fish, chubb, and mustheenongee,
collect there every summer. Salmon,, however, are not amongst
the number, and, except a stray fish, very rarely now ever go up
the Niagara River.

Some naturalists have assigned fanciful reasons for this. It has
been gravely asserted, that a tradition respecting the insuperable
barrier of the Falls has been transmitted from one generation of
salmon to another — they, therefore, think it useless to ascend, or,
what is equally improbable, the noise of the cataract, fifteen miles
distant, frightens them away.

The fact of the non-appearance of salmon in the Niagara River,
appears to be easily explained. That river is deep through its
whole course, having no small branches, shallows, or shelving
shores, adapted to the wants of the breeding fish. As salmon fre-
quent only streams where they can prepare proper beds for the
spawn, and this is impossible in the Niagara River — we do not
find them there.

Individual fish do, however, occasionally make their way to

316 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

the Falls. On one visit there, in 1833, I saw a salmon leap
out of the water, in crossing at the ferry, and so near the boat,
that I could scarcely be mistaken as to the fish. The fishermen,
who sweep the fine beach on the Canadian side, at the mouth of
the Niagara, with their nets, told me that they never take any
salmon.

It is remarkable that salmon will not rise at a fly, either natural
or artificial, in salt water ; nor is there any instance known, I
believe, of their being caught there with any other bait. Swim-
ming about in the brackish water of the estuaries of rivers, they
will not touch the same fly at which they may rise greedily,
perhaps, the next day, when they push up the fresh stream. The
St. Lawrence fish will not take a fly in the tide-water of their own
river, nor even in Lake Ontario.

Salmon, like many other animals, are subject to the attacks
of parasitical enemies, which cling to their skin or infest their
intestines. I have repeatedly caught fish fresh from the sea with
the Monoculus piscinus adhering to their skin. This insect drops
oif after a day or two's residence in the fresh water ; but they
often pick up another still more troublesome companion in
the rivers — the Lerncea Salmoneo, which clings to the gill,
covers, and often materially obstructs the breathing of the fish.
They are freed from this annoyance as soon as they return to
the sea. Tape worms are very often found in the stomach and
intestines.

This fine fish is amongst the most cherished objects of the
angler's pursuit ; and successful salmon-fishing with the rod
and line will, probably, always rank amongst the most exciting,
absorbing, and delightful sports that mortals are permitted to
enjoy.

A zealous angler may be allowed to eulogise his art even
before a Literary Society, for his amusement is one of the hand-
maids of science, and has already contributed not a little to
increase the knowledge stored up in the department of Natural

APPENDIX. 317

History. Besides, the nature of his sport is essentially quiet,
contemplative, and favourable to thought and reflection. " Be-
cause," as an old English writer expresses himself, "hawking
and hunting are very laborious : much riding and many dangers
accompany them : but this is still and quiet : and if so be that
the angler catch no fish, yet hath he a wholesome walk to the
brook-side, and pleasant shade by the sweet silver streams. He
hath good aire and sweet smells of fine fresh meadow-flowers : he
heareth the melodious harmony of birds — he sees the swans,
herons, ducks, water-hens, cootes, and many other fowle with
their brood ; which he thinks better than the noise of hounds or
blast of homes, and all the sport that they can make." *

A salmon when first hooked by the angler makes the most
desperate efforts to escape, It darts away with prodigious velo-
city, spinning the reel merrily, and running out fifty, sixty,
or even a hundred yards of line. It then leaps madly and
repeatedly out of the water, shaking its head with great violence
to get rid of the barbed torment within its jaws. Failing in
this, it tries opposite tactics : descends to the bottom of the river,
and there attempts to accomplish the same object by rubbing
out the hook against the rocks. Next follows another course
of some half-dozen or dozen leaps out of the water, requiring
great care and tact on the part of the fisher to keep the line
taut during these convulsive struggles. It is at this time
that unskilful anglers generally lose their fish. If the salmon is
unsuccessful in all these attempts to liberate himself, he veiy
often, as a last effort, makes a rush down the stream. — Luckily
for the fisher, but unfortunately for the poor fish, it is destitute of
the instinct of the pike, which prompts that voracious creature to
bite through the slender line to which he is a prisoner. The
capture of a large and active fish weighing thirty pounds, has
sometimes employed me more than two hours.

* Anatomy of Melancholy.

318 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Trout are classed by Ichthyologists amongst the salmon family,
and denominated the Salmo Fario ; of which there are perhaps a
thousand varieties. A large proportion of these are found in
Lower Canada ; but the Canadian trout is much inferior in firm-
ness and flavour to the same fish in Europe. Besides, it is often
brought into market in very indifferent condition, and before it
has had time to recover from the debilitating effects of the long
winter ; for when the ice disappears, all the fresh-water fish here
are in a state of great leanness and weakness from want of food.
Trout in this country are in the best order about the end of July,
when they have had time to fatten on the numerous insects with
which the waters abound in the summer, and before the season of
pairing injures the flavour of their flesh. The Canadian trout
are far less particular as to their food than their brethren in the
old world. They are moreover sluggish in their movements,
make slight resistance when hooked by the angler, and afford
but little amusement.

But there is an exception to this. A large, lively, and beau-
tiful salmon trout, called by Griffiths in his u Animal Kingdom "
the Salmo Canadensis, is to be found in the lower branches of
the St. Lawrence, on the north shore. This is unquestionably
the most splendid trout I have ever seen, and is besides a fish of
firm, pink flesh, and the finest flavour. It is voracious, strong
and active, leaping out of the water like a salmon, and affording
the fisher excellent sport. The dolphin's vaunted skin .(and
I have seen and caught many) is far inferior to the superb
colours of this fine trout ; and the clustering aud brilliant spots
of red, yellow, blue, and gold on its rich coat, almost defy the
pencil to represent them adequately. In the Malbay river,
ninety miles below Quebec, I have frequently caught from two
to three dozen of these literally glorious trout in a forenoon —
many four and five pounds weight, but averaging about three.
Last year I caught one enormous individual of the same kind,

APPENDIX. 319

in the Jacques Cartier Kiver, weighing seventeen pounds ; but
this fish was not in good condition, and had lost much of his
beauty.

The Salmo Salmulus, or Parr, is to be met with in some of the
streams in this Province. I found a few last summer in the
Jacques Cartier. This pretty little fish is often confounded
with the salmon fry ; but it is now ascertained to be a distinct
species, never growing to more than six or eight inches in
length.

The number of men and amount of capital employed in the
salmon fisheries of Great Britain and Ireland are now so great,
that they have become collectively an object of national impor-
tance only second to the Cod Fishery. The right of fishing certain
rivers is leased for large sums. The fishery on the Erne at
Ballyshannon, lets from 2500Z. to 3000/. a-year, with a profit to
the lessee of from 1400Z. to 1600Z. Coleraine, I believe, is of
nearly equal value. Many of the Scotch rivers also yield large
rents ; but the fisheries of the Tweed far exceed in value any
other British or Irish river, having been let a few years ago
for 15, TOO/, per annum. The produce of the salmon sent to
London, was at the same time, estimated at 54,000 pounds, but
the necessary expenses are very great. Seventy boats and 300
fishermen are employed during the season at Berwick, on the
English side of the river alone.

The consumption of salmon in London and the other large
towns of the British Islands, as well as in the houses of the
higher and wealthier classes in the country, has become of lajte
years enormous, and the vast sums expended on this dear and
luxurious article, could only be afforded by the immense wealth
of England. To answer this great demand, new means of de-
struction were devised. Nets were made of such dimensions as to
embrace the whole circle of the mouth of a salmon river, and the
capture of the fish was highly stimulated everywhere, and under-

320 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

taken in every way. 100,000 salmon per week for several
weeks in the summer, used to be exported from the eastern
ports of Scotland alone — the greater part of which were sent to
London.

But this over-stimulation of the fishery had the natural effect.
The fish that laid such golden eggs ran the greatest risk of
being herself destroyed by the pernicious cupidity their great
price excited ; for the very existence of the race of salmon be-
came seriously endangered in some of the most productive rivers.
Some years ago, great and general complaints were made by
the river proprietors in Great Britain and Ireland, of an alarming
diminution in the number of the fish ; numerous petitions were
presented to the legislature ; and in consequence a Committee of
the House of Commons was appointed to inquire into the matter.
It sat three months — examined many witnesses, collected infor-
mation from various quarters, and made an elaborate report.
The purport was, that the complaints respecting the great falling
off in the productiveness of the salmon fisheries were well founded
— that from the inefficacy of the laws against poaching the rivers,
and its vast increase — the more general employment of large nets
at the mouths of salmon rivers, and the more numerous impedi-
ments of water machinery in their course, the fisheries were
threatened with total destruction. They therefore recommended
some more cogent legislative measures to prevent the approaching
extinction of salmon in Great Britain.

A bill founded on this report was brought into parliament,
and an act passed in 1828. By this statute any fishing for
salmon with nets, rods, or any other implements, between the
14th September and the 1st February, was made a misdemeanour,
punishable by a fine of from one to ten pounds, with forfeiture of
fishing gear. Other protective provisions were also introduced,
with additional penalties against poaching. It is stated on good
authority, that this act had a very beneficial effect on the

APPENDIX. 321

fisheries ; though many well-informed persons think an addi-
tional month's " close time," as it is called, should have been
enforced, and that no salmon fishing of any kind should be per-
mitted until the 1st of March. Sir Humphry Davy, a high
authority on the subject, was of opinion that it should be for-
bidden until the 1st of May.

Some legislative protection for salmon, appears to be much
required in the Canadas ; for although the number that run up
its chief river is still great, there can be no doubt that it is
sensibly diminishing. There are many causes operating to pro-
duce this effect. The salmon are killed at all times, in or out of
season ; and even the parent-fish, pregnant with some tens of
thousands of ova, and absolutely half-poisonous as food, are
wantonly destroyed. The very fulness of roe, and consequent
large size of the fish, proving the flesh to be unwholesome, tends
sometimes to raise their price in the market. Many of the salmon
that are offered for sale in August, and I believe, all that are
caught in the latter end of that month, and in September, are foul
fish, unfit to be eaten.

The progressive settlement of the interior of the country is
prejudicial to the salmon race in various ways. The stake nets
and weirs or salmon traps, with which every promontory of both
shores of the St. Lawrence is now armed, are more numerous and
better arranged than formerly. As the population increases on
the banks of the breeding streams in both provinces, mills and
dams are erected, and new impediments placed in the way of the
fish ; whilst the Canadian fishermen, and the Indians, their
aboriginal enemies, become more skilful and successful every year.
All this improvement is calculated to thin their numbers ; and
the increasing trade of the river, " furrowing its waters with a
thousand keels " — or churning the stream beneath the paddles of
the numerous steam-boats, doubtless disturbs or frightens many
of them away.

T

322 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

I assume then, as a matter of notoriety, that a serious diminu-
tion in the numbers of the St. Lawrence salmon has lately
taken place ; but for want of sufficient data, it is not easy to
estimate its extent with any accuracy. My own impression is,
judging from an angling experience of ten years in several of
its branches, and from statements I have heard from intelli-
gent persons, that there has been a falling off at least of a fourth
— within the time mentioned. It is true that any legal prohibi-
tion of catching salmon within certain stated periods might be
often eluded in this country, where a similar law with regard to
bringing partridges into market during the breeding season is
never, I believe, enforced. Still it appears to be the interest of all
classes that some legislative protection should be given to the
salmon, and rigidly carried into operation. For instance, a pro-
hibition of catching or selling the fish after the 20th August
(we will say) each year, when they go out of season. A law to
this effect, carefully enforced, would, to a certain extent, pre-
vent unhealthy food from being imposed on the public, and
tend to keep up an adequate supply of breeding fish. Indeed,
if matters go on as at present, salmon, which are even now
sold at a high rate in the Quebec market, will, in all proba-
bility, before many years pass, become so scarce and dear as to be
quite beyond the reach of the community. With increasing
means of destruction directed against them on the one hand,
and no legal protection when breeding on the other, they will
soon be banished from the St. Lawrence, as they have been
already from the Hudson, the Avon, the Severn, the Trent, and
the Thames.

APPENDIX. 323

m.

Fishing in New Brunswick, #c. By Colonel Sir J. E. ALEXANDER,
F.K.G.S. and R.A.S., 14th Regiment.

THE bright and sparkling forest streams of New Brunswick
now dashing noisily among rocks, then gliding swiftly between
deep banks or collected in lake-like pools overshadowed by great
" monarchs of the woods," afford a most agreeable change to a
fisherman from Britain, experienced only in overfished streams,
and sometimes finding it difficult to cast his line across unpreserved
waters in the course of summer wanderings.

We recall with intense delight our sensations whilst exploring
and surveying for government undescribed solitudes and rivers of
New Brunswick, " till now ungraced in story," and listening to
the rushing sound of the wind in the tops of the tall pines, whilst
they gave out their fragrant odours, the ground the while springy
with moss and leaves, and wild flowers of beautiful hues decking
the open glades. The limbs " hard as wires," from constant
exercise, and the feet uncramped in the brown soleless moccasin,
our upper man in " wide awake " and red flannel shirt, axe in
hand, and compass in belt, fatigue was not thought of till after
hours of toil, and till it was time to cut poles and strip bark for
the evening camp, to boil the kettle and excite the appetite by
the process of frying on the cheerful blaze of the log fire. Then,
with the head pillowed on a haversack, containing a change of
raiment, thet blanket laid on twigs of the silver fir, and feet to the
fire, delicious repose would prepare one for the duties of the fol-

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324 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

lowing day, when a spring from the forest couch at four in the
morning, and the rouse of all hands, would show that " work in
earnest " had been undertaken.

With a canoe, fish spears, and rods, we obtained for a short
time our food from the clear waters of the Mirimachi, and though
on one occasion we ate salmon there for three weeks daily, it' was
so good, so firm, so curdy, that we liked it as well at the end of
that time as the first day. We have cause to remember that
central river region, too, from having been lost for three days in
the woods about Mount Alexander*, and reduced to the last
extremity through the ignorance of a pretended guide, till the
Salmonia of the " Glad Eiver " set us up again.

In the opinion of Mr. Perley, an experienced fisherman and
emigrant agent I encountered in New Brunswick, the best river
for salmon fishing there is the Nipissiquit, to which many fishermen
resort every year, some from New York. Sir Edmund Head,
formerly the Lieutenant-governor of New Brunswick, and now
Governor-general of British North America, an ardent fly -fisher,
was there, and very successful, and four officers encamped at the
grand falls of the Nipissiquit for a month, 15th of July to 15th of
August, took 180 salmon and grilses ; the largest was twenty-one
pounds.

There is a river on the Gaspe side of the Bay of Chaleur, called
the Cascapediac, in which there are salmon of the largest size,
even up to 54 Ibs. weight ; the Indians sometimes use a harpoon
for those of forty pounds and upwards ; the ordinary pronged fish-
spear is not sufficient to hold them.

Colonel Blois and Captain Campbell, of the 52nd Light Infantry
ascended the Cascapediac for forty miles in a favourable season,
and had rare sport. The Colonel, an accomplished sportsman
with gun and rod, took a salmon with rod and line of 36 J Ibs.

* See L'Acadie, vol. ii.

APPENDIX. 325

If the river is too low, it cannot be ascended to the fishing ground,
and this sometimes happens.

Sir Edmund Head, fished also in the Ristigouche, which divides
New Brunswick from Canada, of which magnificent river there
are two branches, the Metapediac from the north, and the Upsal-
quitch from the south, which abound with salmon, Mr. Perley
stated that no sportsman had visited them ; but he thinks they
would well repay a visit.

The Mirimachi should be better protected, and not poached, as
we observed it was. One morning we saw two fishermen who had
got thirty-seven salmon with the spear the night before, "by
burning the water," that is with a torch at the end of a canoe at
the tail of a rapid. The Indian fish-spear is a very ingenious
implement, a prong at the end of the pole transfixes the fish,
whilst two semicircles of wood on each side of the prong embrace
the flanks of the salmon, and enable the fisherman to raise it from
the bottom of the stream.

An excursion to the Bay of Chaleur in a yacht is recommended,
as besides fishing, as the season advanced, the wild fowl shooting
would expend a large quantity of ammunition.

Here let us say a word about the black fly and mosquito. We
suffered terribly before we learnt the trick to repel their assaults
in the American woods in summer ; we tried oil and camphor,
but that was only partially successful ; we saw grease and tar used
by rough settlers, and one can easily imagine the figure cut by
those who used this agreeable mixture. Oil and some drops of
creosote " banished all the varmint," and we should not be too
fastidious about smells if we want to enjoy immunity from the
poisonous bites of the torments of the woods.

It always seemed to me that there was wonderful short-sighted-
ness or remissness in many quarters, as to the preservation of
fish, particularly of the best of all, the salmon. The streams flow-
ing into the Gulf of St. Lawrence once teemed with the delicious

Y 3

326 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

" salmo salar," now, alas! diminishing yearly, and why? Be-
cause we saw mill dams crossing the rivers, and without fish-
ways or openings, whilst nets set across the stream entirely stopped
the fish proceeding to the spawning beds ; and then the spear
and the torch completed the work of destruction, and at a time
too when the fish were quite unfit for food.

The pine of New Brunswick was a mine of wealth for some
years ; and now the great coal field of the eastern portions of this
fine province, and the fishing of the coast and of the rivers, duly
preserved and judiciously worked, will, with the assistance of
railroads for ready transport of fresh or ice-packed fish, yield
great profit to enterprising colonists. Mr. Perley's reports may
be consulted with advantage on the herring, cod, mackerel, whale,
seal, and shell-fish of the province.

Some of the settlers who lite by fishing in New Brunswick
have only one large room in their houses, the man and wife sleep
at night in a bed in a corner, whilst the children, huddled up
like mice, " camp " round the stove in the centre as they best
may. We have slept on the floor and in the barn of settlers' houses,
and found the latter very agreeable, particularly if there was a
loft with clean straw.

With regard to preserving salmon after being caught, perhaps,
if they were treated by the settlers as the Dutch and Scotch do
their herrings, it might be advantageous ; that is, immediately the
fish are caught, they are bled, by cutting off the head, to preserve
the flavour, gutted, cleaned, salted, and barrelled without delay.
Like carting off the spawning beds in some home rivers for gravel
walks, so was the shameful destruction of herring spawn cast up
by the sea on the beach of New Brunswick; it was carted off
sometimes to manure the land.

The best mode to protect rivers from being poached either at
home or in the colonies, is by having active men appointed by
government at moderate salaries, £50 or £100, whose duty it

APPENDIX. 827

should be to inform themselves of all infringements of the law,
and prosecute offenders.

The writer has seen salmon speared both in Scotland and in
America, and besides its being a cruel mode of taking the fish, it
seems to frighten the salmon generally, and can be most success-
fully practised when it does the most harm ; that is, when the fish
are near the surface on the spawning beds. The Scotch leister,
unlike the Indian fish-spear, has several prongs and barbs of iron
at the end of its pole.

The consequences of salmon spearing by Indians have thus been
described : —

The practice of capturing salmon by torchlight and spears is
justly held to be most pernicious. Employed, as it almost in-
variably is, at a time when the waters of each river are lowest
and clearest, while the salmon are baulked at the base of steep
falls, awaiting the next freshet, and congregate during sultry
nights near the mouths of cool little rivulets emptying into the
main stream, or loiter about the tails of pools, spear fishing in-
volves excessive slaughter. Sometimes in the course of one night,
as many salmon will be thus killed and maimed as an ordinary
net-fishery along the coast or in the estuaries can capture through-
out the regular fishing season. Practised during autumn and
periods of reproduction, as is still more frequently the case, it
becomes indescribably bad, — it is the crowning act of extirpation.
The luckless fish are then killed at a stage which makes the bare
feature of destroyal in the highest degree deplorable. They have
won their devious way from the piscine pastures of old ocean,
through labyrinths of nets, and a multitude of watery perils.
Urged onwards by strong instincts, they have surmounted in-
credible difficulties and achieved marvels of adventurous travel.
They are now arrived at nature's free hospital of piscary lying-in.
The water-way by which they came is in many parts impassably
shoal, and no more heavy breeders can reach the same high

Y 4

328 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

grounds or supply their places for that year at least. And after
all, lean from exertion and thin food, dark and slimy from the
physical drain and unhealthy action incident to the procreative
state, perhaps sluggish and heavy with thousands of ova, or busied
in the exhaustive labour and anxious cares of depositing their
prolific burden, they are ruthlessly slain by the spear. With
every dead or wounded fish, there perish in embryo from ten to
thirty, forty, fifty, even as high as sixty thousand. Spawners
and melters both suffer. Is it possible to exaggerate the ruinous
consequences of such improvidence ?

There are also other features in this practice contributing to
the waste and injustice it entails. The salmon so taken by spear
are, comparatively speaking, worthless as a marketable commodity.
But being easily taken, the captors willingly dispose of them at
miserable prices, and in barter for the cheapest kinds of goods,
for rusty pork and moulded biscuits. The wrong to the public
of suffering the richest and finest fish in American waters — the
precious capital of our rivers — to be thus traded in when almost
valueless, and under circumstances that admit only of unscrupulous
fishermen and dishonest traders deriving some mean benefits
thereby, is obvious. These dealers adroitly scarify the ugly
portions, disguise their ill-conditioned bargain by dry salting or
hot pickle, and concealing the unwholesome fish at the bottom of
the tubs, or dispersing them amongst other sound pieces, thus
palm them off upon the public. Costing little at prime, the sale
is a ready one below average market price. If consumers were
but once to see a few specimens of unseasonable salmon struck
by the spear, they would remember the loathsome sight, and
rather than venture the chances of again eating such deleterious
food, would eschew salmon altogether.

If the river fisheries become exhausted through this custom,
the whole public suffers ; because these streams are the nurseries
which breed supplies and furnish wealth to the long shore and

APPENDIX. 329

estuary fishings. Besides, to tolerate, it must always expose
Crown lessees to the risk of having their limits suddenly deterio-
rated by the bold encroachments of spearers. To punish them,
even, cannot restore the damage. Years indeed must elapse ere
the pirated rivers can recover from the effects of successive or
casual devastations. And while there remains a loop-hole for
escape as between the Indians and abetting traders, active temp-
tations on either side will drive them to calculate their mutual
chances of evading the law.

The qualified exemption of Indians under the fishery regula-
tions arose, I feel assured, from motives humane and considerate.
These considerations doubtless were influenced by arguments in
support of such exception drawn from the apparent necessities of
Indian life. Experience dissipates this cause of sympathy. It
proves that the Montaignais, Micmac, Naskapis, and Metifs
seldom spear salmon in any considerable quantities for present
subsistence ; and to smoke, or dry, or pickle them for winter use,
never. They go to the salting vats of the nearest trader, — pork,
tea, sugar, tobacco, bread, and sometimes spirits, principally re-
turning to the wigwam in exchange, — that is, the Indians whilst
near the St. Lawrence, &c. whether from the interior, or residing by
turns near the sea-board. It is quite a mistaken notion that they
kill and cure salmon for provisioning the inland hunt.

The experienced missionary, Pere Arnaud, in his evidence to
the Indian Commissioners, says: — "These Indians care for
nothing but hunting and fishing." Indeed, I think that, as regards
several of them, the native love of excitement in the chase has
somewhat to do with their pertinacious pursuit of salmon by
spears and flambeaux. It is a passion among some of the bands ;
and, I must admit, the habit has peculiar fascinations, and to
many it is strangely exciting. Nothing can exceed the wild ex-
citement with which these men pursue it. The sombre night
scene of the forest river seems to delight them. The elder man

330 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

occupies the stern of the canoe, while the younger takes " the
post of honour " forward. The murmur of water-falls and rapids
drowns their exclamatory ughs, and the frequent splash that
would else disturb the pervading stillness. With steady, stealthy
speed the birchen boat enters the rapid, and cutting through its
white waters, glides smoothly over the fall and into the " tail " of
the pool above, or across the quiet " reach." The blazing torch,
stuck in a cleft stake, and leaning over the bow of the canoe,
glares with dazzling brightness. The flame and shadow, swayed
by ripples, conceal the spearers' forms, and bewilder the doomed
salmon. Like moths, they sidle towards the fatal light. Their
silvery sides and amber-coloured eye-balls glisten through the
rippling water. The dilated eyes, the expanding nostrils, and
compressed lips of the swarthy canoe men, fitly picture their eager
and excited mood. A. quick, deadly aim, a sudden violent swirl, and
some momentary convulsive struggles tell the rest. The aquatic
captive, with blood and spawn, and slime and entrails, besmear
the inside of the canoe. During a single night, from fifty to two
hundred salmon may be thus slaughtered, and half as many more
lacerated in their efforts to escape ; the pools, at such seasons,
being too shallow to afford certain safety in retreat. The bed of
coarse boughs, the chill and hungry awakening at sunrise, the
mixture of peril and fagging which form the return down a
swift stream, broken by falls and rocks and rapids, with here and
there a tedious portage, over which several hundred pounds of
fish and bruised and blistered canoes must be transported, — all
these exertions appear but natural to Indians, and not worthy of
comparison as against the fruit of so much toil, converted at last
into six, eight, or ten dollars' worth of provisions and store-goods,
or perhaps, but rarely, a demi-john of home-made rum. The
speared salmon are sold to traders at their own price, as the de-
terioriating mode of capture so much depreciates the fish. The
illegality of the purchase or exchange, also, often is pleaded as a

APPENDIX. 331

risk for which a further proportional deduction in the value of
barter must be made.

That the Indians must suffer starvation by being deprived of the
" native liberty " to ruin our salmon fisheries, is a very flimsy apo-
logy on the part of those who still desire to perpetuate so flagrant an
abuse. With the exception of some families of Naskapis who
have imprudently left their upland hunting grounds, and wan-
dered towards the rocky coast, where sickness debilitates and
cuts off whole encampments, the Lower St. Lawrence Indians do
not endure similar privations to the tribes in Western Canada.
This comparative immunity is certainly due in a great measure
to the paternal solicitude exercised by the exemplary missionaries
of the Eoman Catholic Church. Almost total abstinence from
" fire-water," is not the least of a beneficent improvement resulting
from their self-denying missions. Were there not another salmon
to be caught between Quebec and Labrador, the extinction could
not occasion to Indians one tithe of the misery depicted by persons
whose interest or prejudice it is to excite a sympathetic feeling
favourable to the continuance of facilities for spearing. These
are no mere vague assertions — 'tis a deduction from practical ob-
servations and inquiry. The Indians themselves know this ; and
it makes them all the more reckless and disregardful of the future
in their ravages. Trout are plentiful all along the coast, and the
inner lakes swarm with them. Every bay and bank teams with
cod-fish. The rod and line and bait will catch both in hundreds.
Hooks and lines are as cheap as spearing implements. Seals
are plenty everywhere. The product of one seal will buy the
fishing gear of a family for one entire year. But it is argued, they
need pork and flour, tea and sugar, guns and ammunition, which
can be bought with salmon carcases. Yes, and all of these
articles can be better had in exchange for trout, cod, seals, oil,
akins, and furs. Birch canoes, baskets, and other manufactures
find rapid sale. Canoes bring from eight to twenty-four dollars

332 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

in cash. Necessity, therefore, is simply an excuse, equally de-
ceptive and unfounded. It is the habitual indolence of most of
these Indians which lies at the root of the matter. It ties them
down to frequented spots where inducements held out by cunning
traders (whether on land or afloat) are irresistible.

Is there, then, sufficient reason why their inveterate habits
should be humoured at the cost of extirpating the supply of
salmon ?

In that noble stream the Restigouche, great quantities of salmon
used to be barrelled and exported, till poaching with net and
spear on the spawning beds in the upper river began to prevail, so
wantonly destructive are both whites and Indians if not watched.
One mode of taking the salmon here, was by " drifting ; " that is,
with a net between two canoes allowed to drift down the stream.

In dry seasons it used to be terrible to see the salmon collected
in pools, and unable to escape, swimming about maimed and
bloody from spears and pitchfork wounds. " Black," or fish out
of season, and fish in season were equally unspared by the reckless
and lawless poachers.

Lately some rivers in Ireland have been watched and cared
for from which the salmon had nearly disappeared, and the
increase is wonderful and most encouraging.

We had occasion to be about the Bay of Fundy (remarkable
for its rushing tides, sixty feet high), whilst employed in Nova
Scotia and New Brunswick, and we looked with awe and admi-
ration on the mighty Atlantic wave breaking against the southern
shores of New Brunswick, and rushing up the bay, and scooping
out its bed, and breaking against the primitive rocks which
bounded it.

I ate no salmon about the Bay of Fundy, but cod, pollack,
hake, and herring are caught in abundance there. Ascending the
St. John's Eiver, I ate of its salmon, and of that of its tributaries.
Here also it was painful to see fine rivers ruined by a dam

APPENDIX. S23

allowed to be built across their mouths. I suggested the salmon
stair as adopted by Mr. Smith of Deanston, near Doune, in
Scotland, for his dam — large stones placed at intervals on the
sloping face of the dam, enabling the fish to ascend and rest on
their progress to their spawning beds. Not a salmon was caught
above the dam of the Nashwaak when I was in New Brunswick,
and where for forty-six miles they used to be in abundance.

I like to record the names of the tributaries of the St. John's ;
the Oromoocto and its lake, where I botanised with my much
esteemed friend, Professor Eobb, of Frederickstown ; the Washa-
demoac, with its gaspereau and shad fish ; the New Canaan
River, where, in the course of an exploration of the province,
we came upon a community of industrious and religious settlers ;
the Nerepis, where there was no dam, and thus the salmon got
to the spawning grounds, and the result was a large number
barrelled at the mouth of this river annually ; the Salmon river,
which I navigated with an Indian for a considerable distance on
a raft of five logs, searching for provisions. I asked a rough settler
down stream, — " Have you much fish here now ? "

" Do you see that blasted dam there," he said. " A saw mill
is there shooting its slabs and saw dust into the stream, choking
our fish."

A grand tributary of the St. John's is the Tobique, fertilising
a great tract of country, and doubtless intended for thriving
settlements, where there are now green and wavy forests. There
was, and may still be, an Indian settlement at the mouth of the
Tobique ; there Melicetes killed much salmon with canoe and
spear ; the deer, bear, and ruffed grouse also added to their larder.
The wolves, which prowled round our camps at the end of
summer, supplied warm furs for winter wear and for sleigh
robes.

Salmon are caught in the Aroostook, where I saw lumbering
extensively carried on by sturdy fellows in " wide-awakes "

334 SALMON FISHING IX CANADA.

and red shirts. Cataracts, four miles from the mouth of the
Aroostook, prevent the salmon going higher, and here they meet
their death in the pools below the picturesque falls.

We come now to the Grand Falls of the St. John, beyond
which salmon cannot pass from the sea; Poling the canoe up
stream, the water becomes turbid and foam -covered as the rapids
below the falls are approached. A most romantic winding chasm
of two miles of rushing waters extends downwards from the
white sheet of the falls. From 150 to 200 feet high are the
rocky and perpendicular sides of the chasm ; deep pools are seen
there, and, in looking from the edge of the precipitous rocks,
logs sail and tumble round the pools, and salmon are leaping
there safe from the approach of men hungering after them.

On the eastern side of this interesting scene the writer secured
by purchase 200 acres of fine land, which, still covered with
noble trees, may one day be turned to good account. With due
protection to the St. John and its tributaries, the king of the finny
tribes may never be absent at the proper season from the tables of
the inhabitants of the new settlement of Colebrook, on the west
side of the Grand Falls.

Touching sport in Prince Edward's Island we will say a word.
There is no good salmon fishing in this island with the rod and
fly. Salmon are netted in St. Peter's Bay, though not in great
quantities ; but the trout fishing is very good in Prince Edward's
Island all over it, and no better place than the entrance of the
harbour of Charlotte town, at Lobster Point, three miles from
the town. West Eiver, Bonshaw, New Glasgow, St. Peter's,
Dunk River, Bedeque, and many other places are very good, and
approachable with wheeled carriages ; sleeping and feeding ac-
commodation are also to be had there, — " The lush," elegantly
added an islander, " is to be brought from Charlotte Town, and
during the summer months many persons visit our island for the

APPENDIX. 335

purpose of shooting and trouting ; and a more beautiful spot for a
summer's residence is not to be found in British North America."

Sea trout fishing commences about the 15th April and lasts till
20th June. River and stream fishing is good for some six weeks
after ; the Prince Edward trout are very well-flavoured. In the
month of August salmon used to be speared at the head of the
Morrell.

Plover, snipe, and woodcock are in abundance from 1st
August to 1st September, at which time partridge shooting
commences. The same islander, in answer to a query, said, —
" There are young hares in the fall, and plenty of old chaps in
the winter ; cod-fish and mackerel in abundance on the coast,
lodgings pretty good, and lush plenty ! "

In Nova Scotia we visited certain lakes and rivers, also hunted
the mighty moose deer in company with Micmac Indians, fellows
who did not seem to know what fatigue meant. Cape Breton is
well worth exploring byihe fisherman, with its grand sea lake,
the Bras d'Or ; and the soldier also should meditate among the
ruins of Louisburg, a scene of triumph for the heroic "Wolfe, and
for a noble band of brave colonists. The route for England
carried us from the canoe and moccasin life, from the balsamic
odour of the pine woods, and from the notes of the mocking-bird
and whip-poor-will, and other denizens of that forest land, where
we spent the prime of our days, and which is steadily advancing
in prosperity under the Divine blessing.

336 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

FISHERIES.

From the Report of the Commissioner of Crown Lands,
Canada, 1860.

THE subject of the Fisheries is of vast importance, and the only
regret is it does not attract more attention from our own
people. While the wheat fields and the forests are thronged
with busy labourers, the great rivers and basins of water, salt and
fresh, teeming with fish, which are sought for in every market of
the world, are as scenes of labour and business almost neglected
by Canadians. The riches of these waters cannot be estimated,
and the market which a proper development of them would
furnish for the surplus produce of the soil, is too little thought of.
Still it is believed that enterprise in connection with them is
becoming more active and general.

The cod fishery in the Gulf and River St. Lawrence has been
entirely successful.

Notwithstanding a slight depreciation in the trade price of oil,
the whale fishery, ventured by vessels chiefly from Gaspe, evinces
gradual improvement.

The seal fishery, because of adverse conditions of weather,
proved indifferent — although the fall was superior to the spring
take.

The mackerel fishery was poor ; an unusually large number
of craft engaged therein, but the unfavourable season left the
majority of them to return with scant fares.

The herring fishery shows no decline.

The catch of porpoises was but small.

There still is reason to observe that portions of the foreign
fleet frequenting Canadian waters, disturb fishing grounds inside
of the bounds which the treaty of 1854 reserves for British
fishermen.

APPENDIX. 337

It is a source of much satisfaction to perceive that the equip-
ments for following deep sea fishing sensibly increase, both in the
numbers and outfit of vessels and crews. The fact of consumers
requiring a direct import from the United States into Canada of
near $200,000 worth of marine products annually, should
stimulate Canadians to embark much more extensively in the
trade.

The practical advantages in course of being realised through
the system this year put in operation to protect and regulate the
salmon fishery in Lower Canada, become already manifest from
an increasing run of salmon into the principal breeding rivers.
This fishery during the past season has been fruitful. By
vigorous persistence in the policy thus far approved as beneficial,
it is reasonable to anticipate continued and increasing progression.

Season licences for salmon fishing stations in the Lower St.
Lawrence, to the number of 163, have been issued. The fees
derived therefrom amount to $1,077 76. The rents accruing
(to 15th March) on fishery leases, awarded by public tender, are
$3,661.

With the exception of a few stands upon the Gaspe" coast, no
stations have been submitted to licence, or privileges offered for
sale, along the southern shore of the St. Lawrence, and the Bay
of Chaleurs, and up the tributaries — and most of those upon the
North Shore were licensed at mere nominal rates.

Necessarily the system at the outset, as regards either shore,
from the vast extent of coast and numerous delays attending first
operations, crowded into a brief and uncertain season, has been
but partial in its application.

An appropriation of $600 was made by the Act 22 Vic. chap.
86, towards the formation of oyster beds in the various bays and
waters of the Province, that might be found best adapted for that
purpose. In pursuance of such provisions, some 150 bushels
were gathered fresh from the native banks at Caraquette and St.

Z

338 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Simon, under very favourable auspices, and have been transplanted
upon several suitable places in the Gaspe* basin and at the
Magdalen Islands. Owing to inclement weather, and the pre-
valence of heavy gales, it was found impossible to carry out the
intention of commencing similar deposits on the North Shore of
the river St. Lawrence, at the Bay of Seven Islands, and else-
where. Along the coast between that bay and the Saguenay,
examinations made last summer, en passant, discover numerous
localities adapted to the furtherance of this experiment. It is
hoped the same may be fully accomplished next year, a balance
of $226 66 remaining unexpended over the grant per annum.
The signal success which has recently rewarded a like enterprise
in France, encourages the expectation of profitable results to the
country and trade.

In Upper Canada, the fisheries within the division of Lakes
Erie and .Ontario give promise of improved condition. Those
situated around the division embracing Lakes Huron and Superior,
exhibit satisfactory evidences of improvement. The men and
material employed in their working have been much increased ;
and under the system of regular development and control applied
to them, there is great encouragement afforded to enterprising
and industrious fishermen to embark means and labour in the
business.

One hundred and seventy-one fishery leases have been issued,
the yearly value of rent accruing on which is $5,623. As in
Lower Canada, the proportion of fishing grounds covered by the
present grants, is small in comparison with the unexplored and
open stations available for future disposal.

The moiety of fines levied in both sections of the Province
under the Fishery Act amounted to $100.

The sum total accrued in Upper and Lower Canada, under the
head of Fisheries, is $11,275 39.

It should be mentioned, that the purpose of this season's

APPENDIX. 339

transactions has been to bring into practice the means devised for
regulating and restoring the fresh water fisheries of each section
of the Province, rather than to render them a source of immediate
revenue. That an abundant yield, and advantages both direct
and indirect to provincial interests, will flow from systematic
and earnest administration of these fisheries, cannot be doubted,
but the initiation of an entirely new system is attended with
difficulty : prejudices have to be encountered and dealt with as
gently as possible, and the application for the first time to remote
and distant places of fixed regulations for the government of a
trade which had hitherto been entrusted to the unrestrained
action of those engaging in it, was sure to encounter some
opposition. Happily, owing to the good judgment and manage-
ment of the officers entrusted with the duty, the law has been
fairly brought into operation, and, as it is believed, without
injury to any one.

Those who were among the most violent objectors at first,
have come to learn that they are at least equally interested with
the general public in the objects and the results which the law
is intended to accomplish.

Negotiations have been opened with New Brunswick with the
view of providing such legislation and action as may insure the
protection and due occupation of the fisheries in the waters which
divide the two Provinces.

Z 2

340 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

SALMON AND SEA-TEOUT FISHEKIES OF LOWER
CANADA.

THE following list includes the principal salmon rivers and sea-
trout streams which discharge into the Saint Lawrence and
Saguenay Rivers, along the north-east or Labrador coast, between
the province boundary eastwards (Blanc Sablon), and the River
Jacques Cartier, above Quebec ; also those emptying upon the
south or eastern shore of the Saint Lawrence, and others flowing
easterly into the Bay of Chaleurs, — emphasising the Crown
rivers, now open to public sale, and so mentioned in the accom-
panying advertisement.

In addition there are many other bay, cove and inlet stations
along these extensive coasts, but which are disposable chiefly as
sedentary net-fishings for salmon and trout.

The immediate expiry of the lease of that vast territory
commonly known as ' The King's Posts," opens up to public
competition numerous valuable coast fisheries (such as Tadousac,
Seven Islands &c.), besides many famous salmon rivers and sea-
trout streams, and renders disposable certain commodious building
establishments long occupied as fur-trading posts,by the Honour-
able Hudson's Bay Company, at the mouths of the most important
of these fine rivers.

ST. PAUL'S.
NORTH SHORE.

Discharge into Rivet St. Lawrence.

Esquimaux. . . Fine salmon river. Formerly yielding 52,500 sal-
mon each season.

Corkewetpeeche . . Neighbouring stream. Contains steady run of
salmon.

Ste. Augustine . . Well supplied with salmon.

APPENDIX.

341

*s

£$

55

M

Sheep Bay . . Considerable size. Good salmon-fishery station.

Little Meccatina . . Discharges large body of water by several channels.
Fine salmon river.

Netagamu . . . Large, deep stream. High falls inside. Swarms
of trout. Salmon ascending it only to the
falls.

Napeteteepe . . Empties into spacious bay. Abounds with sal-
mon.

Etamamu . . . Celebrated for its salmon fishery.

Coacoacho . ».. . Discharges into fine basin. Good salmon river.

Eomaine . .«."'• Large, but shoal stream. Salmon abound. Is
remarkable for a rare, beautiful, and flavorous
quality of white or silver trout.

Musquarro « • Bold, rapid river. Affords fine salmon fishing with
fly. Good net-fishery station.

Kegashka . . . Salmon abundant — steep rapids impeding their
ascent. Fishery in bay.

Gt. Natashquan . « Famous stream. Salmon of finest kind and
numerous.

Agwanish . . . Large stream. Good salmon-fishery location.

(N.E. bound of " Lordship of Mingan.")
fPashasheeboo . . Tolerable size. Fair fishery.

Mingan . , . Excellent net and fly-fishing for salmon. Pools
always hold a heavy run of large fish.

Manitou . . . Branch of the Mingan, equally good and well
known.

Saint John . . . Very large stream. Splendid salmon fishery.

Magpie . . . Tolerable good fishery for salmon. Rapid little
river.

Saw Bill . , . Considerable stream. Chiefly net fishery.

Manitou. . . . Large — obstructed by perpendicular fall. At its
mouth both salmon and trout resort.

Moisie . . . Noted for numbers of weighty salmon. Ex-
tensive and lucrative net fishery. Fine fly-
fishing.

Ste. Marguerite, (en bas) Excellent river for salmon and trout.

Pentecost . . . Full, swift stream, much frequented by salmon.
Stationary fisheries at the mouth.

Trinity (Bay) . . Favourite river. Salmon and trout fishing, for net
and rod.

Goodbout . . . Fine salmon river, widely known as such. The
net fishery in its tide-water and adjacent bay is
very productive.

English . . . Empties into deep cove. Salmon fishery. Plenty
of trout.

Bersimis . . . Immense stream, and has many tributaries. Sce-
nery interesting. Abounds with large-sized
salmon. They do not affect the fly except on
the waters of its branches. -

Nipimewecaw'nan . Tributary of Bersimis. Fairy-like stream. FaUs
nine miles inside. Exquisite fly-fishing.
Z 3

s

342 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

Jeremie . . . Small. Trout only. Fur-trading post, chiefly.

Colombier . . . Good salmon fishery.

Plover . . . Do.

Blanche . . . Do.

Laval .... Picturesque and wild river, alternating with gentle
rapids and deep narrow pools. Besides valu-
able net fishery, it affords abundant salmon and
trout fishing.

Sault de Cochon . . Steep falls hinder ascent of salmon. Famous for
trout fishing along the estuary border.

Portneuf . . ' Pleasant stream to fish with fly. Up to the first

^ ^ falls swarms with trout. For several miles

higher up is frequented by salmon. Net fishery
station along the tide-way.

Grand Escoumain . Once famous for salmon. Mill-dam has now an
artificial fishway. Fine net fishery for salmon
in bay.

Cr. Bergeronne . . Good trout stream.

L. Bergeronne . . Fair salmon and trout river. (Both the Berge-
ronne rivers are within few miles of Saguenay
and Tadousac).

Discharge into River Saguenay.

St. Margaret (en hauf) Large tributary of river Saguenay. Fine salmon
fishing for both net and fly. Trout abun-
dant.

L. Saguenay . . Considerable stream, affording tolerable rod and
good net fishing. Mill-dam inside, not in use.

St. John's (en haut) . Do.

Discharge into River St. Lawrence.

Black, or Salmon . Formerly good fishery.

Murray . . . Flows down beautiful valley. Yields salmon.

Du Gouffre . . Much deteriorated.

Ste. Anne . . . Pretty river, and latterly has afforded fair salmon

fishing just below the chute.
Montmorenci . . Cataract at mouth. The upper water swarms with

(river) trout.
Jacques Cartier . . Excellent salmon stream.

SOUTH COAST.

Du Sud . . . Promises to become again a good salmon river.

Mill-dam and fishway.

Ouelle . . . Well stocked with salmon. Mill-dam broken up.
G. Mitis . . . Large stream. Has dam.
Matanne . . . Fine salmon river. Dam and salmon pass in

course of erection.

APPENDIX.

343

St. Ann . . . Formerly good. Now few salmon taken. Mill-
dam across.

Mount Louis . . Important stream. More noted of recent seasons
for sea trout than salmon.

Magdelaine . Salmon river, clear.

Dartmouth . . First-class stream, flowing into Gaspe basin.

Abounds with sahnon.

York ... Do. do. do.

St. John's (du sud) Do. do. do.

Grand . . Fine salmon-fishery. Mill above.

G. Pabos . . Salmon-fishery. Superior station.

Flow into Bay of Chaleurs.

G. Bonaventure . . Large and valuable stream. Many tributaries.

Abounding with salmon.
Cascapediacs . . Both the little and great Cascapediacs yield high

numbers of salmon.

Nouvelle . . . Good sahnon fishery in bay.
Matapediac . . Considerable magnitude, and abounds with sal-

f mon.
Eestigouche . . Noble river. Has fine tributary streams. Salmon

frequent it in large numbers, and of heavy weight.

Head of Bay Chaleurs.
Patapediac . . Branch of Eestigouche. Salmon ascend it about

forty miles.
Mistouche . . . Feeder of Eestigouche. Salmon river.

Nearly all the rivers described in the foregoing schedule are
tidal streams, and most of them have stationary salmon and trout
fisheries within the embouchure, and at bays, coves and inlets on
either sides. Those upon the north shore of the St. Lawrence
descend out of wild, rocky and mountainous country.

Most of these streams, with their numerous tributaries, and
the large lakes at the head of each branch, present every variety
of river and lake adapted to the breeding and feeding of fish.

Where there are mill-dams it is specially so noted. None
elsewhere.

The names of certain Rivers at present advertised for sale are
printed in italics.

The true salmon (Salmo Salar), and the tide trout (Salmo
Trutta Marina), are herein mentioned.

Z 4

344 SALMON FISHING Iff CANADA.

The Grand Trunk Kailway, now in operation to Sir. Thomas,
will be opened next autumn to Eiver du Loup, 1JO miles below
Quebec. Passenger steamboats ply between Quebec and the
Saguenay.

Synopsis of the laws and by-laws now in force in Lower Canada,
having especial reference to the preservation and -regulation
of Salmon and Trout

(Act 22nd Viet cap. 86.)

SECTION 4. The Governor in Council to grant Special fishing
leases and licences ; and make all needful or
expedient regulations for management and dis-
posal of fisheries.

„ 5. A general superintendent and local overseers to be
appointed, and paid by the Government, for each
province.

„ 8. The Government may set apart any waters for
natural or artificial propagation of salmon and
trout.

,, 24. The open season for salmon fishery limited betwixt
1st March and 1st August. Fly surface fishing
extended to 1st September. Exception in pro-
curing spawn for scientific purposes.

„ 25. Spawning pools of salmon protected against all
fishing.

„ 26. Nets and fishing apparatus shall not obstruct the
main channel or course of any river ; and such
channel or course shall be at least one-third of the
whole breadth of a river.

APPENDIX. 345

SECTION 27. Owners of dams must attach fish ways thereto.

„ 28. All parties concerned in breach of 24th Section
become liable to fine or imprisonment.

„ 29. The meshes of salmon nets must measure five inches
in extension from knot to knot.

„ 31. Trout fishing illegal between 20th October and 1st
February.

„ 33. Netting for trout in any lake or stream prohibited,
except upon the Eiver St. Lawrence.

„ 36. Purchase, sale, or possession, during prohibited
seasons, of any salmon or trout, made a punishable
offence.

Regulations under Order in Council.

BY-LAW A. — Parties forbidden to occupy salmon or sea-trout
fishery stations without lease or license from
the Crown.

„ B. — The use of nets confined to the brackish waters
within the estuary tide-way ; and forbidden
upon the fresh-water stream above confluence
of tide.

„ C. — All nets, &c., to be set no less than 200 yards
apart.

„ E. — No other fishing whatever allowed over limits
covered by exclusive leases or licenses from
the Crown, except by express consent of lessees
or licentiates.

„ F. — Prohibits capture of salmon or sea-trout by
torchlight, and with leister or spear.

346 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

BY-LAW H. — The receipt, gift, purchase, sale and possession of

speared salmon or trout declared illegal.
?J J. — No mill rubbish to be drifted awaste in any
salmon or sea-trout river.

Appropriate penalties of fine or imprisonment, with forfeiture
of materials and fish, are provided by law for the contravention of
the several preceding sections and by-laws.

Also, effective and summary modes of proceeding are laid
down for recovery of the same.

APPENDIX. 347

CROWN LANDS DEPARTMENT — FISHERIES.

Toronto, 20th December, 1858.

Pursuant to certain provisions of the Statute 22nd Viet. cap. 86,
the Governor- General in Council has been pleased to adopt the
following REGULATIONS FOR SALMON AND SEA-TKOUT FISHERIES
IN LOWER CANADA.

By -Law A. — In agreement with the intent and meaning of the
4th and 7th Sections of the Fishery- Act, it is hereby declared
that, henceforth the Crown, for all practical purposes, resumes
and re-enters formally into possession of all fishing stations for
salmon and sea-trout appertaining thereto, in Lower Canada, and
that no claim by priority or by reason of past occupation of any
of these places, shall hereinafter exist, and that any party or
parties continuing to occupy and use any net-fishery for salmon
or sea-trout without obtaining lease or license therefore under
authority from the Crown, shall, after previous notice, become
liable to such pains and penalties as are imposed by the aforesaid
Act, — saving moreover, all other recourse in like cases provided
by law.

B. — Neither stake-nets, drift-nets, gill-nets, float or stell-nets,
scoop-nets, seines, weirs, nor other self-acting machine whatsoever,
shall be used within the course of any river or stream frequented
chiefly by salmon and sea-trout, at a greater distance from the
mouth thereof, than the usual mark of tidal floods, or inside of
such other actual limit as may be assigned in the field to each
estuary holding by the Superintendent of Fisheries for Lower
Canada, or by the stipendary magistrate in charge of the Govern-
ment vessel for the protection of fisheries.

348 SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

C. — All nets, or other lawful appliances for the capture of
salmon and sea-trout, shall be placed within the estuary fishings
at distances of not less than 200 yards apart, the interval so de-
signated to mean along either side of the stream, and such mea-
surement to leave the space clear from any net on one side to
another net upon the opposite shore, without separate immediate
nets, or other devise, being set anywhere therein.

D. — The superintendent of fisheries for Lower Canada, or the
stipendiary magistrate in command of the Government vessel for
the protection of fisheries, may prescribe, either by written or
published instruction, or on sight, the open space between nets to
be set in bays, and elsewhere along the coast.

E. — At the outside of the chamber and in the pound of every
set or stake-net for the capture of salmon and sea-trout, there
shall be maintained a flap or " door " at least ten inches square,
which must be left open, affording free egress and passage to
salmon and trout, from sundown on Saturdays until sunrise on
Mondays.

F. — All other persons are forbidden to take fish of any kind,
and in any manner within limits covered by leases or licenses
from the Crown, except by special permission of the lessees or
licentiates.

G. — The fishing for, taking, and killing of any salmon or sea-
trout by aid of torch-light or other artificial light, and by means
of spears, harpoon (negog), jigger-hooks, or grapnel is hereby
absolutely forbidden.

H. — Indians may, for their own bona fide use and consumption,
fish for, catch, or kill salmon and trout by such means as are
next above prohibited during the months of May, June, and July,
but only upon waters not then leased, licensed, or reserved by

APPENDIX 349

the Crown ; provided always that each and every Indian thus
exempted shall be at all times forbidden to sell, barter, or give
away any salmon and trout so captured or killed in the manner
hereinbefore described.

/. — The receipt, gift, purchase, sale, and possession by any
person or persons other than Indians of any salmon or trout
which may have been speared or taken as aforesaid, shall be
punishable according to law ; and every fish so found or had
in violation of this rule, shall become forfeited and disposable as
the law directs.

J. — No fishing shall be allowed in any water set apart by the
Crown for purposes of natural or artificial breeding of salmon and
trout, except under express sanction from the Superintendent of
Fisheries for Lower Canada.

K. — Hereafter no slabs or edgings or other mill rubbish, shall
be drifted awaste, or be suffered to drift awaste, into any salmon
and sea-trout rivers or streams in Lower Canada.

L. — For any breach of the foregoing regulations, the penalty
attached shall be as declared in the 42nd section of the statute
22nd Viet. cap. 86.

The publication of the present by-laws, in both the French and
English languages, in the Official Gazette, shall be sufficient
notice to give legal effect.

P. M. VANKOUGHNET, Commissioner.

Crown Lands Department, Toronto, \\ih January, 1859.

The Superintendent of Fisheries for Lower Canada is em-
powered to grant SEASON LICENCES, covering a period from 1st
May to 30th July, in each year, for the exclusive occupation of
inferior coast fishing stations, for salmon and sea-trout, on Crown

350

SALMON FISHING IN CANADA.

properties situate upon the River St. Lawrence and its tribu-
taries, in Lower Canada, at discretionary rentals.

All persons desirous of obtaining licences should make applica-
tion to the superintendent at Quebec, describing the locality and
the extent of fishery limit required, also the rent offered for the
use of such privileges thereupon.

P. M. VANKOUGHNET, Commissioner.

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NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE

PUBLISHED BY

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CLASSIFIED INDEX

Agriculture and Rural Affairs.

Morris's Life of Becket . .17
Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs . . 17

Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c. . 6

Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs . . 18
Russell's Memoirs of Moore . . 17

" on Road Legislation . 0
Caird's Prairie Faiming . 8
Cecil's Stud Farm ... 8
Hoakyns's Talpa ... 11
Loudon's Agriculture . . 14
Low's Elements of Agriculture 14
Morton on Landed Estates . 17

•' (Dr.) Life of Mezrofanti . 20
SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs.) Life . 20
Southey's Life of Wesley . . 21
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biograph . 22
Strickland's Queens of England . 22
Sydney Smith's Memoirs . . 21
Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs . 22

Taylor's Loyola ... .22

Arts, Manufactures, and Archi-
tecture.

' " Wesley . 22

Uwins's Memoirs and Correspondence . 23
Waterton's Autobiography and Essays . 24

Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6
" Organic Chemistry . . 6
Cresy's Civil Engineering . . 8

Books of General Utility.

Acton's Bread-Book .... 5

Fairbairn's Information for Engineers 9

" Cookery-Book .... 5

G wilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture 10
Harford's Plates from M. Angelo . 10

Black's Treatise on Brewing ... 6
Cabinet Garetteer . . 8

Humphreys's Parables Illuminated 12

" Lawyer . . 7

Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art 13
" Commonplace-Book . 13
Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther . 10

Cust's Invalid's Own Book ... 9
Hints on Etiquette . . . H

Hudson's Executor's Guide ... 12

Loudon's Rural Architecture . . 14

" on Making Wills . . . 12 •

Mac Dougall's Campaigns of Haunibal 15
" Theory of War . 15
Moseley's Engineering ... 17
Piesse's Art of Perfumery . . 18
Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19
Scotfern on Projectile*, &c. . . 20
Steam Kngine,by the Artisan Club 6
U re's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . . 23

Kesteven's Domestic Medicine . . 13
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopedia . . 13
Loudon's Lady's Country Companion . 14
Maunder's Treasure of knowledge . 16 '
" Biographical Treasury . 16
" Geographical Treasury . 16
" Scientific Treasury . .15
" Treasury of History . . 16 j

Biography.

" Natural History . . . 16 I
Pirsse's Art of Perfumery ... 18
Pitt's How to Brew Good Beer . . 18

Baillis's Memoir of Bate
Brialmont's Wellington .

Pocket and the Stud . . . .11
Pycroft'g English Reading ... 19
Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary . IS

Bunsen's Hippol)tus
Bunting's (Dr.) Life

Richardson's Art of Horsemanship . 19
Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . . .19

Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials
Gleig's Essays 10

Roget's Engli.h Thesaurus . . .20
Rowton's Debater 20

Green's Princesses of England . 10

Short Whist 21

Harfbrd's Life of Michael Angelo . It
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopsedia . 13

Simpson's Handbook of Dining . . 21
Thomson's Interest Tables . . .22

Marshman's Lifs of Carey, Marshman
and Ward 15

Webster's Domestic Economy . . 24
Willich's Popular Tables . . . 24

Maunder's Biographical Treasury 16

Wilmot'a Blackstone . . . .24

2 CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE.

Botany and Gardening.

SchimmelPenninck'sPiinciples of Beauty 20
Schmitz's History of Greece . . . 20

Hassall's British Freshwater Alga . I J
Hooker's British Flora . . . 11
" Guide to Kew Gardens . . 11

Southey's Doctor
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography
Lectures on French History .

21
22
21

Lindley'a Introduction to Botany . . 14
" Synopsis of the British Flora. 14

Sydney Smith's Work" ....
Lectures

21
21
21

T 1 ' T 1

22

« s Hortus t>rit nm . . 14

" Wesley

22

" Trees and Shrubs '. '. 14

Thirl wall's History of Greece .

22

" Gardening .... 14

Turner's Anglo-Saxons ....

23

" Plants 14

Uwins's Memoirs and Letters

23

Pereira's Materia Medica ... 18

Vehse's Austrian Court ....

23

Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide . . 19

Wade's England's Greatness .

23

Watson's Cjbele Britannica . . 24

Young's Christ of History

24

Wilson's British Mosses . ... 24

Chronology.

Geography and Atlases.

Brewer's Historical Atlas 6

Brewer's Historical Atlas
Butler's Geography and Atlases .

6
7

Haydn's Beatson's Index . . .11

Cabinet Gazetteer ...

8

Jaquemet's Two Chronologies . . 13

Johnston's General Gazetteer
M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary .

13
15

Commerce and Mercantile
Affairs.

Maunder's Treasury of Geography
Murray's Encyclopedia of Geography .
Sharp's British Gazetteer

16
17
21

Gilbart's Logic of Banking ... 10
" Treatise on Banking . . 10

Juvenile Books.

Lorimer's Young Master Mariner . . 14

M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 15

Amy Herbert • • • •

20

Thomson's Interest Tables . . . 22

CleveHall ....

20

Tooke's History of Prices ... 22

Earl's Daughter (The) .

20

Experience of Life ...

20

Criticism, History, and Memoirs.

Brewer's Historical Atlas ... 6

Gertrude
Hewitt's Boy's Country Book
" (Mary) Children's Year

20
12
12
20

Bun^sen s . n i ^> p »

TT'^VH ' ' A >i*" " *

20

Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus . . £

Laneton Parsonage ....

20

Connolly's Sappers and Miners . . t

Margaret Percival

20

Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul . t

Piesse's Chymical, Natural, and Phy-

Crowe's History of France • *

sical Magic

18

Fischer's Francis Bacon .... 9
Fraier's Letters during the Peninsular

Pycroft's Collegian's Guide .

19

and Waterloo Campaigns ... 1C
Gleig's Essays J£

Medicine, Surgery, &c.

Gurney's Historical Sketches . . 10
Hayward's Essays H
Herschel's Essays and Addresses . . 11
Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions . • lJ
Kemble's Anglo-Saxons . . . .12
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopedia . . 13
Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays . 14
« History of England . . 14

Brodie's Psychological Inquiries .
Bull's Hints to Mothers ....
" Manaeement of Children .
" Work on Blindness
Copland's Dictionary of Medicine .
Cust's Invalid's Own Book .
Holland's Mental Physiology .
" Medical Notes and Reflections

6
7
7
7
8
9
11
11

" Speeches ... 14
Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works . 15
" History of England . . 15
M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary . 15
Maunder's Treasury of History . . 1<
Merivale's History of Rome . . .16
" Roman Republic . • .16

Kesteven's Domestic Medicine
Pereira's Materia Medica
Richardson's Cold-water Cure ,
Spencer's Principles of Psychology
Todd's Cyclopaedia of Anatomy and

13
18
19
21

22

Milner's Chmrch History .... 16
Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. . . IT

Miscellaneous Literature.

Mure's Greek Literature . • .17

Normanby's-i'earof Revolutioa . . 18
Perry's Franks «
Porter's Knights of Malta ... 19
Raikes's Journal 18
Riddle's Latin Dictionaries ... 19
Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review . U
" (Sairi.) Recollections . .19
Roget's English Thesaurus . . . 20
SchimmelPenninck's Memoirs of Port

Bacon's (Lord) Works ....
Detenue of Eclipse of Faith .
De Konblanque on Army Administration
Eclipse of Faith ....
Greathcd's Letters from Delhi
Greyson's Select Correspondence .
Gurney's Evening Recreations

5
9
9
9
10
10
10
11
11
11

Haydn's Book of Dignities .
Holland's Mental Physiology

CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE.

3

Hooker's Kew Guide . . . .11
Hewitt's Rural Life of England . . 12
" Visits to Remarkable Places . 12
Jameson's Commonplace-Book . . 13
Jeffrey's (Lord) Essays . . * . .13
Last of the Old Squires . . . .18
Letters of a Betrothed .. . .13
Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays . 14
" Speeches .... 14
Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works . 15
Martineau's Miscellanies ... 15
Pycroft's English Reading ... 19
Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19
Riddle's Latin Dictionaries . . .19
Rowton's Debater 20
Sir Roger De Coverley . . . .21
Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works . . 21
Southey's Doctor, &c 21
Spencer's Essays ..... 21
Stephen's Essays 22
Stow's Training System . . . .22
Thomson's Laws of Thouaht . . 22
Trevelyan on the Native Languages of
India 22
Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon . . 24
" Latin Gradus . . . .24
Zumpt's Latin Grammar . . .24

Natural History in general.

Agassiz on Classification ... 5
Callow's Popular Conchology . . 8
Ephemera's Book of the Salmon . . 9
Garratt's Marvels of Instinct . . . 10
Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica . 10
Kirby and ^pence's Entomology . . 13
Lee's Elements of Natural History . 13
Maunder's Natural History ... 16
Morris's Anecdotes in Natural History 17
Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist . 19
Stonehenge on the Dog . . . .22
Turton's Shells of the British Islands . 23
Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 23
Waterton's Essays on Natural History . 24
Youatt's The Dog .... 24
" The Horse .... 24

One- Volume Encyclopaedias and
Dictionaries.

Elaine's Rural Sports ... 6
Brande's Science, Literature, and Art 6
Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8
Cresy's Civil Engineering . . 8
Gwilt's Architecture ... 10
Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 13
Loudon's Agriculture ... 14
" Rural Architecture . 14
" Gardening ... 14
" Plants .... 14
« Trees and Shrubs . . 14
M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15
" Dictionary of Commerce 15
Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography 17
Sharp's British Gazetteer . . 21
TJre's Dictionary of Arts, &c. . . 23
Webster's Domestic Economy . 2<

Beligious and Moral Works.

Calverfs Wife's Manual .
Catz and Farlie's Moral Emblems
Cleve Hall
Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul
Cotton's Instructions in Christianity .
Dale's Domestic Liturgy
Defence of Eclipse of faith .
Earl's Daughter (The) ....
Eclipse of Faith
Englishman's Greek Concordance
'« Heb. & Chald. Concord.
Experience (The) of Life

8
8
20
8
8

20

20
20
10
11
11
12
12
20
18
13
13
12
13
20
10
20
13
7
15
20
15
15
15
15
16
16
17
16
17
17
17
18
19
19
20
20

19
20
20
21
21
21
21
21
22
22
22
7
22
24
24

5
5
5
5
8
10
14
14

Harrison's Light of the Forge
Home's Introduction to Scriptures
" Abridgment of ditto .
Hue's Christianity in China .
Humphrey's ParaWes Illuminated
Ivors, by the Author of Amy Herbert .
Jameson's Saints and Martyrs
" Monastic Legends
" Legends of the Madonna
" on Female Employment .
Jeremy Taylor's Works ....
Katharine Ashton
Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther .

Letters to my Unknown Friends .
Lyra Germanica

Margaret Percival
Marshman's Scrampore Mission .
Martineau's Christian Life
" Hymns ....
" Studies of Christianity .
Merivale's Christian Records
M liner's Church of Christ .
Moore on the Use of the Body
" " Soul and Body
" "s Maa and his Motives

Neale's Closing Scene ....
Pattison's Earth and Word .
Powell's Christianity without Judaism .
„ Order of Nature
Readings for Lent
" Confirmation
Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Tes-
tament

Self- Examination for Confirmation
Sewell's History of the Early Church .
Sinclair's Journey of Life
Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy .
" (G. ) Wisleyan Methodism
« (J. ) Shipwreck of St Paul
Southey's Life of Wesley
Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography
Taylor's Loyola ...
* Wesley ...
Theologia Germanica .
Thumb Bible (The)
Young's Christ of History .
" Mystery ....

Poetry and the Drama.

Aiktn's (Dr.) British Poets .
Arnold's Merope ....
'• Poems ....

Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works .
Calvert's Wife's Manual .
Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated
L. E. L.'s Poetical Works
Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis

Amy Herbert 20

Bloomfield's Greek Testament . . i
Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress . . 7

4 CLASSIFIED INDEX TO CATALOGUE.

Lyra Germanica 7
Macaulay's La-vs of Ancient Rome . 15
Mac Donald's \Vithin and Without . 15

Stable Talk and Table Talk .
Stonehenge on the Dog
*' Greyhound

10
22
22

" Poems . . . . 15
Montgomery's Poetical Works . . 16

The Stud, for Practical'Purposes .

11

Moore's Poetical Works .... 17

" Selections (illustrated) . . 17
" Lalla Rookh . . . .17

Veterinary Medicine, &c.

" Irish Melodies .... 17

« National Melodies ... 17

Cecil's Stable Practice ....

8

" Sacred Songs (with Music) . 17

" Stud Farm

8

" Songs and Ballads ... 17

Hunt's Horse and his Master

12

Shakspeare, bv Bowdler . . . . 20

Hunting-Field (The) ....

11

Southey's Poetical Works . .21

Miles'* Horse-Shoeing ....

16

Thomson's Seasons, illustrated . . 22

" on the Horse's Foot

16

Pocket and the Stud ....

11

Practical Horsemanship ....

11

The Sciences in general and

Richardson's Horsemanship .
Stable Talk and Table Talk

19
10

Mathematics.

Stonehenee on the Dog ....

Stud (The)

22

Youatt's The Dog

24

Arago's Meteorological Essays
" Popular Astronomy .

" The Horse . . .

24

Bourne on the Steam Engine

" 's Catechism of Steam-Engine .
Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual

Voyages and Travels.

Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c.
" Lectures on Organic Chemistry i
Conington's Chemical Analysis . . 8

Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon
Earth's African Travels ....

5
5

Cresy's Civil Engineering ... 8

Burton's East Af.-ica ....

7

De la Rive's Electricity .... 9

" Medina and Mecca .

7

Grore'8 Correlation of Physical Forces . 10

Domenech's Deserts of North America

9

Holland's Mental Physiology . ] '. 11

First Impresgions of the New World .

9
9

Humboldt's Aspects of Nature . . 12

Forester's Sardinia and Corsica

10

" Cosmos . . . .12

Hinchliff's Travels in the Alps

11

Hunt on Light 12
Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia . . 13

Howitt's Art-Student in Munich .
" (W.) Victoria ....

12

12

Marcet's( Mrs.) Conversations . . 15
Morell's Elements of Psychology . . 17
Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 17

Hue's Chinese Empire ....
Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc .
Hambnldt's Aspects of Nature

12
12

12

Ogih-ie's Master- Builder's Plan . . 18

Hutchinson's Western Africa

12

Owen's Lectures on Comp. Anatomy . 16

Kane's Wandering* of an Artist .

13

Pereira on Polarised Light . . . 18

Lady's Tour round Monte Rosa .

13

Peschel's Elements of Physics . . 18
Phillips's Mineralogy .... 18
" Guide to Geology ... 18

M'Clure's North West Passage .
Mac Dougall's Voyage of the Retolute .
Minturn's New York to Delhi

18
15
16

Powell's Unity of Worlds ... 19
" Christianity without Judaism 19

Mollhausen's Journey to the Pacific
Osborn's Quedah

16

18

Order of Nature ... 19

Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers .

18

Smee's Electro-Metallurgy ... 21

Scherzer's Central America

20

Steam-Engine, by the Artisan Club . 6
Webb's Celestial Objects for Common

Senior's Journal in Turkey and Greece
Snow's Tierra del Fuego ....

20
21

Telescopes ...... 24

22

Von Tempskv's Mexico and Guatemala
Wanderings in the Land of Ham .

23
24

Enral Sports.

Weld's Vacations in Ireland .
" Pyrenees, West and East .

24
24

" United States and Canada .

81

Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon 5
Blaine's Dictionary of Sports . . 6

Cecil's Stable Practice ... 8
" Stud Farm .... 8

Works of Fiction.

Davy's Fishing Excursions, 2 Series 9
Ephemera on Angling ... 8

Connolly's Romance of the Ranks

8
g

" Book of the Salmon . 8
Freeman and Salvin's Falconry . 10

Howitt's Tallangetta ....
Mildred Norinan ...

12
16

The Hunting Field 11

17

Idle's Hints on Shooting . . 12
Pocket and the Stud ... 11
Practical Horsemanship . . 11

Sewell's Ursula
Sir Roger De Coverley ....
Sketches (The) , Three Tales .

20
21
21

Pycroft's Cricket-Field ... 19
Richardson's Horsemanship . . 19

Southey's Doctor, &c
Trollope's Barchester Towers .

21
23

I onalds's Fly-Fisher's Entomology 20 Warden ....

23

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