ROSCOE M. WOOD
HENRY L. WARDWELL
SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS

Published by

THE S. R. FEIL CO., M’f’g. Chemists,
CLEVELAND, OHIO

he DO

Copyright N°

COPYRIGHT DEPOSH:

Aer eh:

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS
MR. ROSCOE M. WOOD
MR. HENRY L. WARDWELL

Published by
THE S. R. FEIL CO., Mfg. Chemists,
CLEVELAND, OHIO

NEW BOOKS

BEC.URLY: OFF

Stockmen’s Library.

Sheep Book, Illustrated Price 50 cts.
Swine Book, Illustrated Price 50 cts.
Horse Book, Illustrated — Price 50 cts.
Cattle Book, Illustrated Price 50 cts.

Each of these books has a valuable colored ana-
tomical chart, as a supplement.

Copyright, 1912,
By THE S. R. FEIL CO.,
Cleveland, O.

ECLAs324 ve

PREFACE

‘There is much pleasure and
profit in sheep husbandry for
the man who will be pa-
tient, painstaking, and ener-
getic enough to give them pro-
per care.

Every farm should have its
flock of sheep just as much as
its hogs, cattle and horses, for
the sheep fills a place of its
own, among farm animals.

Their rapid increase in num-
bers, quick maturity, ability to
pick a living almost anywhere,
the value of their fleece, and
the benefit of their droppings
in fertilizing land together
with an usually good market
price, make them asure source
of profit to the man who faithfully sticks to them.

The greatest drawback to the sheep raising busi-
ness in times past, has been the deadly worms which in-
fest the pastures and find their way with the animals’
food, into the stomach and intestines. I am glad that it
has fallen to my lot to deal the death blow to these
destructive parasites, and I appreciate keenly the words
of commendation of such men as Henry L. Wardwell,
J. C. Duncan, Robert Blastock, Geo. McKerrow, Jas.
Leet, C. O. Judd and thousands of other sheep breeders,
who unite in saying that in ‘‘Sal-Vet”’ lies the salvation
of the sheep business in America.

Sidney R. Feil, Pres.,
The S. R. Feil Co., Cleveland, Ohio.

‘oimseold pue yyo41g

Successful Sheep Raising

By ROSCOE M. WOOD, Saline, Mich.
Sg)T OCCURRED to us that

a practical everyday treatise
on the care and handling
of sheep, that would appeal
to the general farmer who
keeps a flock of sheep, as a part of his
general farm curriculum, and which
will be of real service to him in making
that flock a source of profit and pleas-
ure, would be appreciated by American
farmers, who believe sheep are neces-
sary to the proper conduct of a yy. roscoe M. woop
twentieth century American farm.

With that idea in mind this article has been written.
Concise and practical, we have aimed to present nothing
here, but what any farmer with good common sense can
do, and which we have learned from our own experience,
has been profitable. Much of it may be trite to the
experienced shepherd, but we would say that we are not
writing this for his benefit; we are weaving no fine
spun theories, neither are we presenting methods possible
only to the specialty sheep breeder or the wealthy faddist.
This is for the plain everyday farmer, who may perhaps
learn something new, or, at least, have the old recalled
and forcibly impressed upon his mind.

The plan of the book is based on the care of a flock
of ewes during the year, beginning with their selection
in the fall, their breeding, care during the winter, the
raising of the lambs, the handling of the flock during
the summer, until we again come to the fall, with its
culling and the starting of operations for another year.

Methods described are practical and applicable to general

Page Five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

conditions as found on farms in the north central states;
there are always special exceptions, which may only prove
the rule.

This is intended for the farmer with a small flock of
ewes, as such flocks are handled on the average farm in
this country, not for sheep that are handled in large
bands, under range conditions, for we feel sure that
there are more men engaged in this branch of the sheep
business than in any other, even if they do not handle as
many sheep. And we venture to say that the develop-
ment of the country will gradually bring an increasingly
larger proportion of the business to the conditions of the
farm and the small flock.

Statistics show that sheep are not increasing in
numbers in the United States, while the population is
increasing rapidly; in spite of this, prices of wool and
mutton are lower at times than conditions of supply and
demand would seem to warrant, and certainly below the
cost of production. “Then it seems as if the farmers are
like their sheep, they see one go and all the rest want to
follow. One sells and quits the business, everybody
wants to sell; by the time many of them are out of
the business, sheep advance in price, and there is a
scramble to get back into sheep. Nothing can be
accomplished by such methods. ‘The only way to get
the most profits from them, is to raise sheep all the time,
sell your surplus every year at the market price; in the
long run, such system will win.

Aside from the necessity of sticking to the business
there are certain conditions which require sheep on the
average American farm. [The percentage of farmers
who can specialize and devote all their time and energy
to one branch of farming, is very small; the great
majority must do general farming. These farmers keep

Page Six

SUCCESSFUL SHEEP RAISING

A flock of sheep solve the problem of soil fertility.

cattle and hogs and chickens, and raise grain for market;
they carry numbers of each in proportion to the condi-
tions of feed and market. With this other stock, sheep
should hold just as important place in the economy and
profit of the general farm curriculum.

One of the great problems of present day agriculture,
is the maintenance of soil fertility, and there is no one
factor that furnishes greater aid in its solution, than
sheep. Nothing builds up the producing power of a
farm so quickly, so cheaply, and so well, as sheep manure.
But for the development of the sheep and lamb feeding
industry, whereby the “‘woolies’’ came to the farms,
converted grain and roughage into wool and mutton and
manure, and the latter returned to the soil to feed
and aid it in producing the next crop, many farms in

Page Seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Michigan, Ohio and other states, worn out with wheat
and grain growing, would now be in the same class as
the abandoned farms of the far eastern states. [he
value of sheep manure as a fertilizer, has been shown so
clearly and so forcibly, that now this erstwhile waste which
accumulates at the big feeding stations around Chicago, is
bought, pressed into small cakes by machinery and sold
at a cent a pound, and even more, to the farmers who
plant this with their corn. Sheep manure means rich
soil. Show us a farmer who keeps sheep and tends
them well, and we will show you a productive farm and a
prosperous farmer.

In addition to the great value of the manure, sheep
consume and convert into marketable form, a large
amount of roughage which would otherwise be wasted
or, at least, would not yield nearly as good returns, as
when eaten by sheep. In fact, the feed of a sheep requires -
a very small proportion of grain, compared to the roughage,
and it can be handled at the minimum cost for labor.
For instance, how can corn stalks, or oat straw, or
clover hay be marketed so cheaply and so advantageously
and bring so great returns, as by feeding to sheep? The
farmer thus sells his finished product in the shape of
wool and meat, and returns the waste, in the form of |
manure, to enrich his farm, realizing the greatest possible
returns from everything involved in the process. Like-
wise in summer, the sheep will eat the weeds in the
stubble fields, and clean up any young brush which may
have grown on the farm, and do well on such feed for a
few days at a time. Thus they do good work in
destroying this undesirable growth, and at the same time,
turn to valuable use, an otherwise troublesome and
obnoxious product.

Page Hight

SUCCESSFUL SHEEP RAISING

The labor problem, which is perplexing and expen-
sive on most farms, is simplified by sheep, for while there
are certain seasons when they need close attention, as at
lambing time, yet throughout a great part of the year
they get their own feed, and what attention is required,
can usually be given when convenient, or when other
work is less pressing. In the busy summer months they
do not have to be fed twice a day, nor do they require
milking. When in the pasture they spread their own
manure, and do it better than can any man or machine.
They do their own work to a greater extent, than any
other domestic animal.

The amount of capital required to secure a flock of
sheep is very small, while the returns come quickly. Often
we have seen men buy ewes in the spring, and in less
than six months, get enough from the wool and the

lambs, to more than pay the cost of the ewes. ‘The ewe ,

is like a semi-annual interest-bearing bond, you can clip
your coupons twice a year. In the spring you have a
wool clip which ordinarily pays for the feed of the ewe,

while in the fall you have a lamb, a large part of which |
should represent profit. Nor are expensive’ barns or.

sheds necessary; a building which will protect sheep
from rain, snow and wind is the main requisite. Light-
weight fences answer every purpose in keeping sheep
where they belong on the farm. Expense for racks and
troughs is also at a minimum.

These are but a few of the more prominent consid-
erations and inducements, which sheep raising presents
to the general farmer.

Page Nine

eaz

SAI-VET SHEEP BOOK

The Ewe Flock

“Well begun is half done,’’ is especially true in the
sheep business. It is absolutely essential to have a good
flock of ewes, if you expect to make them the most
profitable. “The best is always cheapest, so it is penny
wise and pound foolish, to scrimp on the quality of the
ewe flock with the vain idea that you are saving a few
dollars. The extra money that you invest in securing

Have a good flock with which to start.

better quality of ewes, will be returned to you many
times, by the increased returns on your investment.
Make up your mind to have a good flock to start with.
It costs no more to feed a good sheep, than a poor one,
and the returns are infinitely greater.

Page Ten

THE EWE FLOCK

Almost the first thing many farmers ask is, ““‘What
breed shall I buy?’ ‘The question of breed is not so
material, provided it is adapted to the conditions of
climate, soil and markets, under which you must run
your flock. ‘he main thing is for you to be satisfied
with it, and feel that you can make the greatest success
with it. Under general average conditions, good Merino
ewes give very good results; the smooth, big-boned kind,
that produce a good fleece of wool, and raise a market-
able lamb. ‘They are generally hardy, most resistant
to disease and easiest to secure. If you prefer some of
the mutton breeds, select the one you think best adapted
to your conditions, and try to get ewes as nearly pure
bred as possible.

The important thing about any farmer’s flock of
ewes, is that they be uniform, of one grade, of one line
of breeding, of one size and the same quality. Too
many farmers have an idea that the more breeds or the
more mixtures that are represented in their flock, the
better is the flock; nothing could be further from the
truth. ‘The flock in which every ewe appears to be the
duplicate of the other, is the one which appeals to buyers,
and which brings profit to its keeper. “They produce a
clip of wool in which the fleeces are all the same grade
and quality, they raise a bunch of lambs that are all
alike; this means an increase in the price over the
eafeeed| lot, when you are ready to sell.

Reem. the necessity of uniformity in your dork.
it is Important that you select the right type of an indi-
wicdidles as your ideal ewe: Ule: (first: thing * to
avoid is extremes in any particular, either of size or
fleece. Medium size and good form is _ essential.
Constitution is very important ; a heavy boned fore leg
and a wide, deep chest indicate that. A good head, not

Page Hleven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

A champion American-bred Shropshire, from the flock of Henry L. Wardwell,
Springfield Center, N. Y.

too long, with a clean cut nostril, a clear eye, a good
neck, a little thin and long as compared to a ram, a
good back with a full heart girth, strong shoulder and
well sprung rib, a short, square rump and a straight
hind leg. These are the main essentials in a typical ewe.

Satisfied as to the form, look to the fleece. Secure
as heavy fleece as possible, without impairing the mutton
faculties. A thick fleece carrying some oil and with as
good staple as possible for the weight, should be required.
Staple is especially important, but you can not sacrifice
too much weight for staple; for the longer the staple,
the lighter the fleece; the heavier the fleece, the shorter

Page Twelve

THE EWE FLOCK

the staple; it is as near the happy medium as possi-
ble that you want. ‘The fleece should be of even quality
as possible, all over the body, generally with good head
and leg covering; the latter indicates good breeding.
Fineness of fiber is generally to be desired, as well »
as oil in the fleece; both add to its value and to
ismmuciont.. A harsh, dry fleece, as well as a long,
open. one, are to be avoided. A healthy pink skin
should be in evidence; too dark or too pale skins, indi-
cate other faults.

Fine boned, ill-shaped, weakly constituted sheep
should be rejected, regardless of any special excellencies ;
likewise the one with a thin, light fleece, of inferior
quality. Sheep too long-legged, should find no place in

Hampshire Ewe, at Walnut Hall Stock Farm, Donerail, Ky.

Page Thirteen

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

the flock ; neither should the little, squatty, dumpy ewe,
that is made in a mold two or more sizes too small, be
chosen. Such ewes are often nice to look at, but
seldom prove satisfactory breeders. Rather select the
larger, broader, roomier kind, which convert much of
their feed into milk for the lamb, at the proper time. In
all things seek the happy medium; it is the well-propor-
tioned ewe, that has no pronounced defects, that will pro-
duce the best results. In this as in all things abe, com-
mon sense and judgment must be used.

The Ram

Rambouillet Ram, owned by King Bros., Laramie, Wyo.

Page Fourteen

THE RAM

With a good flock of ewes, a good ram is required
if you expect to raise a good crop of lambs. For the
ram is half the flock, and, in many cases, he has proved
to be nearly the whole flock. ‘The reputations of many
great live stock breeders have been made by their
selection and use of animals which developed into great
sires. An extraordinary good sire will so impress his
good characteristics upon his progeny, that you can not
estimate his value; likewise the damage of an inferior
one, can not be computed. “Too many fail to appreciate
this fact. Often have we seen men buy the best ewes
they could obtain, and then, for the sake of a few dollars,
fail to buy the best ram they could get. “The difference
in value of the first crop of lambs, will far more than
pay for the difference in cost of a good ram, and a poor
ones, Good things im this world cost: It has’ cost
labor, brains, and time to produce that ram, and the
breeder is entitled to compensation for his product.
Remember that you are not buying the mere pounds of
wool and mutton, which compose that particular indi-
vidual ram, but the increased value you expect to obtain
in the crop of lambs you will raise from him.

Having in your mind a picture of the type of ram
you need, look for one that conforms closely to your
ideal, and when you find it, do not let a few dollars stand
in the way of your getting it. Do not wait until the
day you are ready to use your ram, before you think
about buying him. He should be bought, at least, a
month before you need to use him, so he can become
accustomed to the changes of feed and location; not
only that, but the earlier in the season you look for him,
the better selection you will find from which to choose,
and the more probability of finding what you want.

. Page Fifteen

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Champion Ram, owned by Geo. McKerrow & Sons, Pewaukee, Wis.

[n selecting the ram, buy one that is allram. A
ram that looks like a ewe, or is effeminate in any way,
will prove a worthless breeder. He should be active and
vigorous, full of life and vim. A broad, strong head, not
too long, a large foreleg, with a wide, deep chest, a
broad shoulder, a well-sprung rib, good loin, square

rump and straight hind leg, are all essential indications
of a ram that will impress his characteristics upon his
progeny. As to fleece characteristics, much that we
have said about the ewes, applies with equal force to the
ram. Select the square, well-made ram with broad
front and straight hind quarters, well let down; the
long-legged, loose-jointed, ill-shaped, hollow- —— rams,
will do you no good.

Page Sixteen

THE RAM

Southdown Ram, owned by Chas. Leet & Son, Mantua, Ohio

In this connection we wish to impress on the
trader the necessity of taking one breed and sticking to
that breed. It matters not what the breed may be, you
can not make headway in the improvement of your flock,
by crossing breeds. Crossing is never permissible when
one expects to maintain the flock from the ewe increase.
Breeding sheep, or any live stock for that matter, is not
like making a sandwich, as many farmers apparently
think. ‘To obtain improvement in any given char-
acteristic, or in a harmonious combination, strict ad-
herence to the laws of breeding must be observed.
It does not stand to reason that any farmer, with a
flock of sheep, can cross breeds, and in the course

Page Seventeen

Cotswold Ram, owned by F. W. Harding, Waukesha, Wis.

ot two or three or four crosses, produce something better
than anything that the best breeders of the world have
produced, after having devoted years and years to breeding
and improving their favorites. “There are plenty of breeds,
each having individual characteristics, particularly adapted
to certain conditions of climate and soil. Determine
which breed is best adapted to your conditions, buy good
animals, and then stay with it. ;

Individual merit and good breeding to back it up,
are absolutely essential in any ram you use; either one
alone, loses much of its value without the other. Buy a
purebred ram, for his breeding is your insurance of the
ability of the ram to transmit his good characteristics.
Experiment stations and private individuals have demon-
strated in every possible way, that the purebred ram is
vastly superior to “‘any old ram,”’ in the quality of the

Page Highteen .

THE RAM

lambs he gets and the prices they bring. While we
want the pedigree to show on his back, yet we want to
know that his ancestors were good individuals, and good
animals which have been worth- keeping purebred and
registered, are assured of that.

Buying of good, reliable breeders is safest in this
respect, for rams bred by such men, are reasonably
sure to be choicely bred and to give good results. Then,
unless you know all there is to know about sheep, their
judgment and opinions may be of value to you in making
your selection. Many times an animal which may not
be particularly prepossessing in appearance, may prove a
better sire than one which appears better as an indi-
vidual, due to the better breeding of the former ; in fact
many of the great sires have been far from being prize-
winners. Good breeders have said that they wanted to
see the dam when they were selecting a sire, as by her,
they could judge much as to the value of her lamb, as a
sire. So in the selection of a ram, the farmer will
receive much aid from the honest breeder, who under-
stands the breeding of his sheep, the value of good
blood in a sire, and the peculiar excellencies of the
various lines of breeding within his flock. If he knows
the purposes for which the farmer wants a ram, he can
many times make a distinction between individuals,
from his knowledge of their breeding, which will prove
valuable to the buyer.

It is generally not good policy to buy a ram that
has been fitted for show, for it requires skill and time to
reduce such rams to a breeding condition, and the aver-
age farmer has neither the time nor the experience to do
this; besides, sometimes in the fitting, actual damage has
been done to the ram, so that he is not a good breeder.
A ram should be in good, thriving condition, so he can

Page Nineteen

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

show something of what he really is, but his useful-
ness to the farmer, depends upon how he has secured
that condition. A ram that has run in the field, securing
lots of exercise, and gaining condition from feeds which
produce growth and muscle instead of fat, is far more
valuable for service to the farmer, than a highly fitted
ram, that has been kept in the barn. On the other
hand, one should not buy a ram that is thin, and be-
cause the breeder recommends him as being hardy and
being able to stand poor feed and privation. “There may
be a reason for the lamb being thin, which, if known,
would make him valueless to the buyer. A serviceable,
desirable ram should be in good, thriving condition, so he
can beget good, strong lambs. One wants to know that
a ram has certain desirable characteristics, and the best
way to be sure of it, is to have the ram well developed
and in good condition ; they can not be brought out and
the ram show what he really is, by starving him. Good
blood is of little value without good care and plenty
feed, and it requires a judicious combination of all these,
to produce improvement. ‘The good breeder will not be
offering rams in thin, unserviceable condition.

In this connection comes the matter of weight.
The first question many men ask is, ‘How much does
he weigh ?’?’ ‘The mere matter of pounds does not spell
anything, for if it be fat, put on with fat-producing
feeds, it is a detriment instead of a benefit, and it takes
fat to weigh. Rather seek bone and good form and a
growthy condition, obtained by proper methods and feed.
Then if the ram has the proper conformation and breed
characteristics, the matter of weight will take care of it-
self. “[he extremely large ram is not to be desired; the
biggest rams are seldom the best. ‘To be sure, one
wants good size and strong constitution. but the medium

Page Twenty

THE RAM

sized ram is more evenly balanced in all respects, and is
more sure to transmit his good. qualities to his produce.
The very large ram, when bred on a flock of average
good ewes of uniform quality, begets a more uneven lot
of lambs, and many of the latter will show long legs and
ill-shaped bodies, aside from other weaknesses, especially
of fleece. The desire of many men for great size in
their flock, goes beyond reasonable limits, and they over-
look many other factors which are more important.
Rather seek uniformity and good conformation; try to
see how good a lamb you can produce and how cheaply.

‘The more economically you can make a pound of wool,
or of mutton, the more profit you will have. This has
never been done with the biggest sheep.

When you have secured a good ram and he proves
a satisfactory breeder, keep him just as long as you can.
Many think it necessary to change rams every year,
but this is not good business, unless the ram is a poor
breeder, or gives only average results. A ram which is a
good breeder and is imprinting his characteristics on his
lambs, should be retained just as long as the ewes, to
which he is being bred, are not related to him.

Shropshire Rams,

Page Twenty-one

The Breeding Season

With a good flock of ewes and a ram of the proper
quality and breeding to mate with them, you have a
good start in the sheep business. But good sheep, no
more than anything else, can live on their breeding ; they
must have good care and plenty feed, if you expect to se-
cure maximum profits from them. “They require the
little attentions when they need them; not the day after,
or the week after, but at the time. ‘hey can get along
on short, unsuitable food if necessary, but they respond
nobly to plenty, producing large returns upon the invest-
ment. “loo many farmers have a mistaken idea that the
sheep should live and thrive on what is left, after all other
stock and crops have had the proper attention. “hey
think any old thing is good enough for the sheep. No
stock does best when it lacks proper care or the most
suitable feed, and it requires the best of both, to produce
the most profit. Sheep are no exception to this; and
when given such care and feed, no animal returns greater
profits from the labor and investment involved.

The beginning of a year’s work with sheep is the
breeding season, and no small degree of success depends
upon the care and feed at this time. “he ewes must be
in good, thriving condition. Ewes that have suckled
lambs during the preceding summer, are often liable to
have become thin in flesh, and it is important that they
be so handled, that they gain enough to get in good con-
dition, even if it is necessary to feed them grain, previous
to and during breeding. A mixture of corn and oats,
equal parts by weight, 1 pound per head, fed in the
troughs when the flock comes to the barn at night, will
be a great help to them.

At least two weeks before you begin to breed, it is
essential that the ewes be run on a timothy or blue grass

Page Twenty-two

THE BREEDING SHASON

pasture; a new seeding or a clover pasture should be
avoided, as the effect of such pasture, is to prevent the
ewes from becoming settled in lamb.

The time of breeding depends upon when you wish to
have your lambs come. In these northern states, breeders
calculate to have their lambs come any time from Febru-
ary to April, according to the individual conditions and
ideas. It depends upon how one is fixed to take care of
the new-born lambs, both as to feed and shelter, and the
necessity for the latter. There are advantages and dis-
advantages on both sides. Generally speaking, the
earlier lambs bring higher prices, because as they require
more labor and expense to produce; there are not so many
of them, and they are ready for market before the big
rush in the fall. They are also less liable to the ravages
of stomach worms in the early part of the summer.
‘They come at a time of the year when the general
farmer has plenty time to care for them. But they
require a warm barn; zero weather and an open shed
do not agree with young lambs. The ewes demand
more and better feed previous to lambing, and there is
not the opportunity to make use of the roughage on the
average farm, to as economical advantage. More roots
and succulent feed are required, as well as more grain.
It is much more difficult to keep the lambs growing
under such conditions, than later in the season, when
they can have green grass and sunshine and exercise.
‘The best way is to strike as near a happy medium as
possible; and this we have found to be about March,
varying earlier or later, according to the climate and the
individual conditions. “This means breeding the ewes in
October, inasmuch as the period of gestation in ewes is
approximately five months, although scientists claim it is
one hundred and forty-five days.

Page Twenty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Prize-winning Hampshires, from the flock of C. O, Judd, Kent, Ohio

Before breeding, care should be taken that the ewes
are well tagged, which is the shearing of all wet, dirty
wool or tag locks, from the hind parts. Oftentimes a ewe
has been scouring or the urine has dripped on the wool
and made it filthy; all this should be trimmed off, and
the ewe kept clean and healthy. ‘This is most easily
done by catching and throwing her on her side. Also
where ewes lamb before shearing, it is best to tag them
well before lambing begins, as it will save much trouble
for the lamb in helping itself. Likewise ewes, which, for
any reason, have become dirty during the summer or fall,
should be well tagged, before going into winter quarters.

Here a word as to catching sheep: there is a right
way and a wrong way, and too many do it the wrong
way. Do not catch a sheep by the wool. Every time
we see a man catch a sheep by the wool, we feel like

Page Twenty-four

THE BREEDING SEASON

catching him by the hair; it is the same thing in both
cases. The easiest and surest way to catch a sheep, is to
grasp the hind leg just above the gambrel; in this way
yoursdre | more sure of catching it if it be moving:
it is easier for both man and sheep, and there is no
danger of hurting either one. By catching below the
gambrel, there is danger of breaking the leg, as there is
only the bone, and a quick jerk or a throw, is liable to
snap it. Grasped by the gambrel with one hand, you
can pull the sheep back, throw the other hand around
the neck, and easily set the animal on his rump or side, as
you may wish, without injury or undue exertion. Of
course, there is a little knack about it, which it takes
practice to perfect. In handling ewes heavy with lamb,
it is safer to grasp around the neck with one arm; if you
wish to turn them down, grasp the hind leg nearest to
you, pull forward and push under the ewe, at the same
time pushing her body, with your other hand, toward
yourself; thus she will lie down easily and without
injury.

‘The general method of breeding, is to turn the ram
with the flock of ewes and let them go without further
care, which is very reprehensible conduct on the part of
the shepherd. “The most practical way we have found,
with the least labor, is to turn the ram with the ewes
during the day; take him out at night and put him by
himself where he can be fed his grain, which should be
considerably more than he would get if running with the
flock all the time. Such method requires but little labor,
for the ewes should come to the barn every night for
their grain and shelter from the storms, at thisseason. It
takes but a minute to take the ram out of the flock, and
he soon learns where to go, when he learns there is a
good feed of grain awaiting him. ‘Then he will eat a

Page Twenty-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

good feed of hay, rest during the night, having his
morning mess of grain before going with the flock, and
when they go to the pasture, he is rested and fresh for
another day’s work.

This is better than keeping the ram in the barn
days, and putting with the ewes nights, for the ewes are
all up and stirring during the day ; there is not as much
chance of the ram missing any in heat, and the ram will
work during the day, and rest at night. Otherwise he
will be uneasy and restless during the day, and at night
many of the ewes will be lying down. What little labor
and feed that the method described demands, is paid for
many times by the better condition of both ram and
ewes, and the stronger lambs that you will get.

The breeding season should last from thirty to
forty days; for while the breeding period of a ewe
should be every seventeen days, yet there often is one
missed the first time around, and some do not settle at
the first breeding. So that to insure that all are bred,
this length of time is required.

One ram will breed from fifty to sixty ewes if prop-
erly and carefully handled in this way, and he is a strong,
robust ram of mature age. Many farmers think it
economy to use a lamb, because the first outlay is not so
large. This is a great mistake, tor the lamb can not
breed nearly as many ewes as an older ram, and the lambs
from him will not be as strong after the first few ewes
bred; then there is much danger of seriously injuring the
growth of the lamb, through over-service.

In the feed for the ram, we have found the best to
be timothy hay, or hay mixed with a very little clover,
for roughage, while the grain should be four parts oats,
one part corn, about a quart to a feed, for an average
ram, and to this add a handful of whole wheat. Clover,

Page Twenty-six

THE BREEDING SEASON

which is the best roughage for sheep at all other seasons,
either as pasture or hay, 1s strictly tabooed during the
breeding season.

If it be desired to breed an unusually large number
of ewes to one ram for any reason, more service can be
obtained without damage to the ram or the lamb crop, by
using the following method: Take another ram to ‘'try
out’? the ewe flock every morning, which ram will find
all that are in heat, put such ewes in a pen in the barn
during the day, allowing the ram in service to serve one
at stated periods during the day, but allowing but one
service to a ewe. A record can thus be made of the
ewes, and the date of breeding, so that when it comes
lambing time, the shepherd will know closely when they
will lamb. This method requires more labor, but is
repaid by the greater service secured from a single ram.

Winter Care

After breeding, comes the care and feed of the ewe
flock, during the winter previous to lambing, which 1s
likewise important; for the proper care and feed are as
necessary for the lamb before birth, as after, although not
so close attention is required in its early stages.

Subsequent to breeding, the ewes can run on almost
any pasture which furnishes ample feed, although a
timothy or blue grass pasture is generally best, until
snow or lack of grass forces their being kept at the
barn and fed dry fodder. For this, good corn fodder and
nice bright straw, form good roughage, especially for a
morning feed, while good clover hay makes a palatable
evening meal for them. A feed of grain, two parts oats,

Page Twenty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Large, dry, open yards are essential.

one part corn, one part bran, by measure, one bushel
per day, to fifty head, should be given until near lambing
time. As to the amount of roughage, they should have
all they will eat up clean; they should not be allowed to
waste any, for it is waste that eats up the profits.
Neither should they be stinted, for it takes feed to grow
wool and mutton, and as long as the sheep make good
use of it, they are making more money for you that way,
than any other in which you can market your feed.

In addition to proper feed and plenty of it, there is
another requisite to a good lamb crop, and that is, plenty
exercise and fresh air for the ewes. Close warm barns
are not good for the ewes; likewise is the large open
yard essential. Here the ewes can get exercise, which
they need, in order to insure a strong, healthy lamb in the

Page Twenty-eight

WINTER CARE

spring; the exercise is just as necessary as the feed.
You cannot put a flock of ewes in lamb, into a small pen
in a barn, feed them highly all winter, and expect to
raise any lambs.

‘They should be protected from all storms, especially
rains, and the pens or barns should be so situated that
there are no draughts. But the barns should not be
closed tightly unless it might be in extremely severe,
stormy weather. Sheep have a good coat of wool which
keeps them warm, even as clothes protect aman. Like-
wise do they want fresh air when they sleep. Keeping
the door on the south side of the barn open, will accom-
plish this purpose very well.

In feeding the roughage, feed the corn stalks out in
the yard, which every farmer should have adjacent to his
sheep barn; likewise the straw if you prefer; or the
latter can be put in the racks inside, in the morning; the
ewes can pick it over during. the day, and at evening,
feed that is left, can be thrown out for bedding. Straw
should be fed in racks, but the corn stalks can be fed on
the ground where the ewes can pick at them. We have
also found a very economical and satisfactory method,
the early part of the season following breeding, to be to
feed the ewes shock corn. Judgment must be used in
feeding this, and care must be taken to scatter the corn
thoroughly, so that no single sheep will get too
much; also the ewes must be furnished abundant exer-
cise. A very good method is to have their water some
little distance from the feed, which necessitates their
walking every day. But this feed should not be given
during the latter part of the period of pregnancy. Good
clover hay, with some grain, and a short time before
lambing, the feeding of roots or other succulent feed, is

Page Twenty-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

necessary in order to induce a sufficient flow of milk to
properly nourish the lamb.

Fresh, clean water is absolutely necessary. No
animals are so clean as sheep; especially are they
particular about their water and their grain troughs.
Dirt or filth will effectually keep them away; they will
go hungry and thirsty, rather than suffer manure in their
feed or water. Some farmers seem to think that sheep
need water only occasionally, but it is just as necessary to
them as to man; it is just as important as feed. Where
there is not a running stream available, a half barrel or a
common washtub, make the best watering tubs. “They
are cheap, convenient, and easily cleaned. Where there
is a waterworks system on the farm, a small trough hold-
ing not to exceed a barrel of water and filled through a
valve, attached to a float is a very convenient, labor-
saving arrangement.

Salt is also necessary. This can be kept im a box
where they may have access to it at their pleasure, and
as their appetite demands, or it can be fed to them at
stated intervals. Wéith the former method, it is abso-
lutely essential that it be kept there all the time; for if
the box is allowed to become empty, when it is refilled
some of them will get more than they need, and disas-
trous results will follow, even to absolute loss. With
the other method, a proper amount can be scattered in
the grain troughs once or twice a week. For salt, we
use almost exclusively ‘‘Sal-Vet,’’ a medicated stock salt.
We feed it not only in the summer to the lambs,
but we have found it economical and beneficial for the
ewes in winter; it acts as a conditioner, and will drive
out the stomach worms which may be present in their
systems. Another good method of feeding salt where

Page Thirty

WINTER CARE

Let no other stock run in the sheep yard.

straw is being fed, is to make a strong brine, all the salt
that the water will dissolve, and spread on the straw. It
makes the straw more palatable, and the sheep get salt
in proper amount.

During the winter there are two requisites of sen-
sible and successful care of breeding ewes; they must be
kept dry, both underfoot and overhead, and other stock,
such as horses, cattle, or hogs, must not run in the same
yard with them. Wet, muddy yards, mean sore feet and
wasted feed. Other stock in the yard, means injured
ewes and loss of lambs; besides the ewes will be driven
from their feed. Narrow doorways or gates must be
avoided, as well as sharp corners. Nothing will injure

Page Thirty-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

ewes and cause abortion, quicker than a little, narrow
door, through which ewes have to crowd, or some
sharp corner. Crowding is to be avoided at all times,
either by scaring the flock by some unusual noise, or in-
tentionally, and all obstructions must be prevented.

The sheep pen should be kept well bedded with
straw or other roughage at all times, asa matter of clean-
liness and of profit. It is not only much healthier for
the sheep to have a clean place on which to stand and
lie, but by keeping well bedded, more manure is made,
and sheep manure is valuable on any farm. It is some-
thing of which you never get too much. The pen
should be cleaned often enough during the winter, so
that the manure does not become so deep that it heats
or interferes with the sheep eating in the hay racks. It
should be drawn and spread upon the land. “This work
can be conveniently and economically done in winter,
instead of waiting until the rush of spring work. Es-
pecially important is it that the pen be cleaned just be-
fore lambing begins.

Exercise and fresh air at all times, proper feed, and
sensible care of the breeding ewes, will do much to insure
a good lamb crop.

Preparations for Lambing

About two weeks before the ewes are due to begin
to lamb, a change in feed is due them. ‘They should
have more grain, and clover hay{twice a day. Roots are
also essential, or some succulent'feed. Grass is the best
known milk producer, and when that is not obtainable,
some substitute must be provided, in the form of a suc-
culent feed. We have found roots in the form of sugar

Page Thirty-two

PREPARATIONS FOR LAMBING

Keep the ewes quiet and undisturbed.

mangels, or stock feeding beets, as they are known, to
be the best for this purpose. “They are cheap and easy
to raise. A little batch of one half to one acre on one
side of your corn field, well tended, will raise a large
amount of cheap feed. “The main labor of hoeing and
thinning can be done in the damp of the mornings in
haying time, while the necessary cultivating can be done
at the proper times, just as you would tend a patch of po-
tatoes or corn. If you have never tried them, the yield
will surprise you. For feeding the ewes they should be
cut into slices, which can be done with a root cutter
made for the purpose. “They can be fed either as a sep-
arate feed at noon, or they can be mixed with the other

Page Thirty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

grain, and fed with it morning and night. We believe
the latter the better system, especially when the ewes
are not used to eating the roots.

In the absence of roots, dried beet pulp, where
available, is a good feed ; wheat bran is necessary in any
case. Feed corn sparingly, or not at all. Oats, bran,
and roots, with all the clover or alfalfa hay they want,
makes an ideal ration, and is practically essential to se-
cure best results. Use judgment in feeding it. Start
with an amount equal to that which the ewes have been
accustomed during the winter, gradually increase it, so that
by the time the lamb is a week old, the ewe is eating
about all she wants.

Before lambing, especial care should be taken to
keep the ewes quiet and free from scares which cause
crowding and danger of injury. When anyone goes
among them, he should go slowly, keeping to the outside
of the pen, thus giving the ewes a chance to move out
of his way, without becoming scared or crowding. All
yelling or other unusual noises, should be avoided.

Small pens about 3x5 feet should be provided, so
that when a ewe does not own her lamb, or has twins,
or you want to make a ewe adopt a lamb, you haye a
place already for such conditions. “These can be made
alongside the hay rack, thus making a rack for them,
while old pans make good grain dishes for such pens.

Immediately preceding lambing, not so much exer-
cise is needed, but even a little, such as can be secured
in a good sized yard adjacent to the pen, Is very de-
sirable. In fact, a properly located, well drained yard,
is just as essential for a good sheep equipment, as is a
barn or shed. Here the flock should always go for its
grain, except it might be in a storm, and while the ewes

Page Thirty-four

are eating their grain, the farmer can be feeding them
their hay. Crowding is thus avoided, as is the danger of
getting chaff in the wool, while all are eating grain at
the same time, and each getting its share. Care should
be taken to spread the grain in the trough evenly, not
a lot and then a little as some do, which causes crowding
and the weaker sheep, which needs the grain most, is
pushed away, while others get too much.

By feeding in the yard, the feeder readily notices any
sheep that may be indisposed or off feed. He is wasting
no time waiting for the sheep to eat their grain, for
he is busy feeding the hay, and in doing this, keeps
all dirt and chaff out of the wool. ‘This matter of keep-
ing chaff out of the wool is important, for a clip of
chaffy wool, means a reduction of two to four cents a
pound, from the price of a clean clip. Neither hay nor
straw should be fed over the backs of the sheep, nor should
they be allowed to run to a straw stack as they want,
and while doing it be filling their heads, necks, and
backs with chaff. Put it in the racks or in small piles
around the yard, so that the chaff will not get into the
wool.

Lambing

Lambing is the sheepman’s harvest, and it behooves
him to look well to his business. It is close work, night
and day for a little while, but it is necessary to success.
The life or death of every lamb means the addition or
subtraction of so many dollars from the year’s work.
When you look at that dead lamb and then calculate
how many dollars that represents, your ambition may
be spurred to greater effort with the next one.

Page Thirty-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

When a ewe looks gaunt and hollow, stands off in
one corner by herself, and occasionally draws up her
hips, you may know if all is well, there will scon be a
new lamb, within six to eighteen hours. As her time
approaches, she will become uneasy, lying down and
getting up quite often, and occasionally straining.
When the labor pains come on and the water sacs pass,
the lamb should come soon, at the most, in not more
than six hours; if not, there is something wrong, and
unless you know how to help her, assistance of an ex-
perienced shepherd or of a veterinary should be secured
at once. Do not wait, for time means a lamb, and,
perhaps, a ewe.

But if everything is well and the lamb is presented
all right, it is best to help the ewe, especially if she is
young and it is her first lamb; pull em) the ices
and push the head forward; you can help her much,
and avoid any danger of injury to the lamb. As soon as
the lamb comes, take care that the little thin skin which
covers his face and nose is removed, and that he begins
to breathe; if he does not breathe, hold his mouth open
and blow into it, also rub him on the sides with your
hands; the lungs soon act. In breaking the naval
chord, be careful to break the chords by drawing toward
the lamb and away from the ewe. Do not cut, but tear
apart, by drawing between thumb and forefinger.

Everything well so far, the next thing is to see that
the milk is started, so the lamb can get hisfeed. Dothis
with moistened thumb and forefinger, and put the lamb
where he can take hold of the teat; if he is lively and
hungry, there isno more trouble. But sometimes a lamb
is a little dumpish or slow to take hold, or it might be
that he has gone without feed too long, due to some
mishap, and he does not suck. In such cases it becomes

Page Thirty-six

LAMBING

necessary to hold the lamb with the teat in his mouth,
and if he does not draw the milk himself, to draw it with
thumb and finger, from the teat, into his mouth;
when he gets a taste of the milk, he will do his own
milking. In these cases the lamb should be put with the
ewe in one of the small pens provided, and care taken
that the lamb is suckled every two or three hours, until
he helps himself. In all cases it is better to take the
ewe, with her lamb, from the flock of unlambed ewes,
and put with those that have their lambs. Thus the
latter can be given more feed and better care, while the
little lambs will not annoy the ewes about to lamb.

Any ewe which refuses to own her lamb, a ewe
with twins, or a ewe which has lost her lamb, and which
you want te make raise a lamb, should be put in one of
these small pens. If a ewe loses her lamb, she will adopt
some ill-fed twin in a few days, if thus put by herself
with him; for every ewe should raise a lamb, either her
Own, or some other ewe’s. Occasionally it becomes
necessary to feed a lamb cow’s milk, in order to save him.
This should not be done until he is two or three days
old, even if you have to steal a little ewe’s milk away
from some other lamb. Care must be taken not to
overfeed him on cow’s milk. Give him a little at a time,
but often. This can be done with a bottle and a rubber
nipple. The milk must be the right temperature,
neither too hot, nor too cold. It must be fresh milk, just
as it comes from the cow. No dilution is necessary, for
ewe’s milk is even richer. The bottle must be kept
sweet and clean. The lamb must not go too long with-
out feed, and he must have his milk regularly. The first
two or three weeks is the important time when he
requires close attention, and after that he is not so

Page Thirty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

particular. “Then the young boy or girl can take an
interest in the flock by feeding the pet.

With the ewes just lambed, care must be taken that
the lambs are sucking both sides of the udder, and taking
all that the ewe gives. Often, for the first two or three
days, a ewe will give more milk than the lamb needs, and
then it is important that the ewe be milked out; this Is
best done by letting some older lamb, either a twin or
some lamb whose mother is not feeding him well, do
this. Milking with the hand should only be resorted to
when there is no other way, for it is a waste of the
choicest lambs’ feed, and it tends to dry up the ewe.
Care must be taken to see that the ewe’s udder is clean,
and that her teats do not become sore, for then she will
refuse to let her lamb suck. Very close attention must,
at all times, be given to this matter of the lambs sucking
both sides, and the ewes owning their lambs. It means
the growth of the lamb and the health of the ewe.

Immediately following lambing, the ewe should not
be fed too heavily, especially if she be in a small pen; gen-
erally, in a flock, she is so anxious about her lamb for
the first three or four feeds of grain, that she will not eat
too much; she will spend half her time running between
the grain trough and her lamb. You should notice if
her bowels are moving regularly ; and if she is costive or
feverish, give her two tablespoonfuls of castor oil, or an
equal amount of Epsom salts. Sometimes the newborn
lamb takes his nourishment well for the first day, and
then refuses. In such cases, note if his bowels are in
working order; if they have not moved, give a rectal in-
jection of lukewarm soapsuds, made of pure soap and rain
water; use a small syringe. This is generally sufficient,
but in severe cases, a teaspoonful of castor oil may be
given internally.

Page Thirty-eight

LAMBING

Sometimes a ewe will develop a caked udder, gen-
erally in one side only, but often in both; it may
come anytime while the ewe is suckling, more often
appearing in ewes that are heavy milkers, and when the
lamb is from three weeks to two months old. ‘The part
affected becomes swollen and hard, which causes a stiff-
ness in the entire hind parts. Instead of milk, there is a
thin, watery fluid, sometimes gargety, which the lamb
refuses to take. Rub the udder well with the hand and
force out as much of this fluid as possible. In rubbing,
which is the main treatment, it 1s essential that the hand
be kept moistened while you are rubbing; also when
through rubbing, apply some camphorated sweet oil.
Such rubbing should be done for twenty to thirty min-
utes two or three times a day until the soreness has dis-
‘appeared. The main purpose is to soften the udder
and to keep it milked out. ‘his trouble is generally
attended by constipation, and as soon as noticed, a large
dose of castor oil, three to four tablespoonfuls, or Epsom
salts, should be given. Generally the ewe loses further
use of the affected side; in some cases, it causes death.
In any event it means the market for her in the fall.

The Lambs

Three factors are necessary to a place to best raise
young lambs, viz., it should be dry warm, and light.
Good ventilation is necessary in order to avoid dampness
as well as draughts, both of which are death to young
lambs, as well as to old sheep. Many times in trying to
keep ashed warm, it is kept closed so tightly, that a vapor

Page Thirty-nine

is created from the breaths of the sheep, with a resultant
dampness and moisture, which is very disagreeable and
even dangerous. The air must be kept pure and
dry. A great aid to this is sunlight. To procure
this, it is essential that the sheep shed be so located, that
the broadside of it is toward the south, and built with
plenty windows and glass in the doors, if the latter must
be closed. Next to the mother’s milk, there is no one

Page Forty

THE LAMB

thing that does a little lamb more good, nor which he
enjoys more, than an abundance of sunlight. Did you
ever see a bunch of young lambs gathered together,
lying in the sun, sleeping and enjoying those warm rays
to the full, when, perhaps, outside the wind may be
blowing and the thermometer hovering around the zero
mark? If not you have missed one of the finest
pictures Nature has ever painted for man’s instruction
and pleasure. When the lamb is sleeping in that sun-
light he is growing, and this means profit to the farmer.

Like all other young animals a lamb must be kept
growing, and he must learn to assimilate foods other
than his mother’s milk. The earlier in life he does this,
the better. To help him, fix a creep. What’s that?
A small pen, where he can crawl away from the ewes
and find grain and the choicest, tenderest hay for him-
self, and a drink of fresh, clean: water, and a nibble of
“Sal-Vet.” Have this pen adjoining, or within the
sheep pen proper, and make the openings into it just
large enough for the little lamb to crawl through, with-
out the ewe being able to get in. The pen need only
be large enough so that a number of the little fellows
can get into it at once. Here have a trough, in which
you keep a mixture of bran with a little oats and just a
sprinkle of oil meal; also a rack in which you keep a
little choice clover hay. Keep this feed and water clean
and fresh all the time, and so the lambs can get it. Do
not worry about the lambs going in there; they will find
it and learn to eat, without any further help.

When the lambs are about ten days to three weeks
old, two operations become necessary in order to make
them the most profitable, viz.: docking and castrating.
To do this, they are best put in a small pen before start-

Page Forty-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

ing, and as soon as done with one, put him in the pen
with the ewes, thus not disturbing the lambs after
operated upon, this is quite important, as the less
they move, the less liable they are to bleed. “The best
time to do this, is at evening after feeding, and just before
dark, as the flock will then be quiet for several hours.
The only tool necessary is a sharp pocket knife, which
must be properly disinfected with carbolic acid or any
good disinfectant ; this latter is very important.

Where both operations are necessary, the castration
is done first. See that both testicles are down, cut off
the end of the scrotum or sac, and pull out the testicles
with the thumb and forefinger, or, as many prefer, with
the teeth, until the cord breaks; do not cut the cord.
A little disinfectant, such as Zenoleum well diluted, acts as
a healer and disinfectant. Io dock, simply cut the tail
off with the sharp knife. Care should be taken to hit
one of the small joints in the tail, which can be easily
located by the operator with the thumb of his left hand;
for, hitting the joint, it does not shock the lamb nearly
as much, nor is he so apt to bleed. In case of over-
bleeding, from which there is occasional danger of death,
the best preventive is searing with a hot iron. Cording
and the use of cobwebs, is also effective. Some even
advocate the use of hot pincers for docking, but we have
always found the sharp knife the handiest and most
effective, with very little danger.

Page Forty-two

SHEARING

Shear them before they go to grass.

e
Shearing.

Shearing time depends somewhat upon the time
when the lambs come; if the lambs come early, shearing
follows lambing, if later, the shearing often comes first.
In the northern states, shearing generally comes the latter
part of March and during April, depending upon the
weather and the local conditions, as to shearers and
sheep. Shearing too early is not advisable, because there
is not as much oil, and consequently, not as much
weight in the fleece. Unless you have a very warm
place for them, cold weather will necessitate more
feed, and the ewes will not furnish as much milk.
Shearing before lambing, requires careful handling of the
ewes by the shearers, or there is danger of turning the
lamb inside the ewe, thus causing trouble. Shorn ewes,
however, are much easier to handle after they lamb, and

Page Forty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

generally it is easier for the lamb to help himself, as there is
no wool nor tags to bother him. No set rule can be given;
aman must determine this for himself. Only one thing
is sure, they should be shorn before they go to grass.

General custom is to hire local shearers, who make
that their business at that time of the year; many
farmers are learning to do their own shearing. Some
use machines, but the great majority use blades. Many
men have an idea they can learn to shear sheep with a
machine, when they could not with a pair of shears; this
is wrong, for the knack is not so much in holding the
shears or the machine, but in holding the sheep so as to
run the shears or machine to advantage. ‘There is not
room here to explain fully about shearing; it must
suffice to say, that sheep must always be held in a com-
fortable position, and the hide kept smooth and tight.
Pull the hide and not the fleece, and then the shears or
clippers will run smoothly and close to the hide.

Having shorn the fleece, the main thing is to tie
it up properly. ‘This is best done by the aid of a common
folding wool-box, such as every farmer has or knows
about. [Thread with the proper twine, which is the
common wool twine, lay the fleece upon this, shorn side
down, smooth and arrange so that the shorn ends will
all appear on the outside of the fleece, put in all the
trimmings and dry tags, fold the box, and tie the fleece.
If you do a good job of tying, no black ends will appear.
With the use of the box, all fleeces will appear uniform
and will be packed a little so that the ends do not show,
all of which adds to the attractiveness and salability of
your clip, when the buyer comes. Never use sisal nor
manila binding twine; if you do, it will cost you two to
four cents a pound on your clip. Better not tie at all

Page Forty-four

SHEARING

Sheep shearing by machinery.

than use it. Some are using a new paper twine; others
a small hard cord. These are both good. ‘The main
thing, is to have a twine not too heavy, and especially one
free from any loose fibers which may attach to the wool,
and so cause trouble for the manufacturer when he
makes the fleece into cloth; such fibers can not be
separated from the wool, and they cause a flaw in the
goods.

Care should be taken that each fleece is tied sep-
arately, and with no more twine than necessary. “Iwo
or more fleeces or parts of fleeces, should not be tied to-
gether. Do not put wet tags, sweat locks, dead wool,
dirt, nor foreign matter of any description, inside the
fleece. You are selling wool, not real estate nor fertilizer,

Page Forty-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

and just because the buyer can not see everything, do
not think he will not know about any filling of fleeces
with other than wool; those fleeces must be opened, and
the men who open it, will know whence it comes. The
reason Australian wools open up in such good condi-
tion and are so satisfactory to the manufacturer, is that
the growers use great care in doing up their wools and
try to maintain a reputation for the good condition of
their clips. “The carelessness of American farmers in this
respect, has cost them much.

Properly tied, the wool should be put in some place
where rats and mice, dirt and dust can not reach; neatly
piled and covered with canvas, it is ready to show to
the buyer, when he comes. Piling it in as it comes from
the flock, any variation of the fleeces will show
so that it is not necessary to pull the pile to pieces,
in order to show the wool. Here is where the value
of a uniform flock shows in dollars. “The time to sell
wool is when it is ready for market, and that is when
it is shorn. “Too many make the mistake of holding
wool for a higher price, because it appears easy to hold,
eating nothing, and taking but little room; they forget
there is a shrinkage and a risk involved in carrying, aside
from the interest on the money invested,which makes
a profit from holding of very doubtful value. The local
buyer generally furnishes the best market, as he has
enough competition as an incentive to pay you its value.

After shearing and before going to grass, both ewes
and lambs should be marked. “The best way to do this
is with a small metallic ear label, which should have the
owner’s name or initials on one side, and aseries of num-
bers on the othe; in this way, the farmer cau keepia

Page Forty-six

SHEARING

record of his lambs and of their breeding, each year.
Such labeling lasts during the life of the sheep, as
very few of them become lost. In addition to this, many
use a paint mark on the wool, which can be readily dis-
tinguished at a distance. [his should be made of lin-
seed oil and lamp black or venetian red, with a little
flour, to give body to the paint. It can be put on any
part of the body, with a wooden marker, preferably the
rump or back. ‘Tar should never be used for marking.

Ticks should be the only condition necessitating the
dipping of sheep, unless scab has broken out through
accident by shipping the sheep from other sections.
Dipping should be done in the spring, soon after shear-
ing;a good warm, sunny day isthe best. Use a small dipping
vat, such as any of the larger tank factories make; a
small draining pen, made with a tight bottom so that
the dripping from the sheep when they first come out,
can run back into the vat, some good coal-tar dip, water,
and plenty help to handle the sheep; these will make
a short job of dipping, and effectively rid your sheep of
all ticks, at a very small cost. By doing this soon after
shearing, it will take much less dip, the sheep are easier
to handle, and you do a better job of killing the ticks.
With a coal-tar dip, there is no danger of poisoning nor
injuring the sheep.

If for any reason there are many ticks on your sheep
in the fall, dip them before very cold weather comes.
Ticks live on the sheep’s blood, and if sheep’s feed must
support numbers of these pests, it is not producing wool
and mutton, and so is lost to the farmer. We have seen
sheep absolutely poor, because so infested with ticks.
There is no excuse for such negligence. Dipping is
cheap and effective.

Page Forty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Going to Grass.

Shearing done and lambing well through, the farmer
anxiously awaits the day in spring when he can turn his
flock of ewes and little lambs out to grass, for green
grass is the greatest feed known to produce milk and to
grow young animals, and especially lambs. Calculation
should be made to have a field of green pasture for the
little lambs, just as early as it is possible A field of fall-
sown rye, furnishes very early feed, as also does a good
clover meadow or a fresh blue grass pasture. Care should
be taken that the pastures are comparatively new seed-
ings, or have not had sheep on them before; for old pas-
tures are the great breeding place for stomach worms,
and they are the bane of the farmer, who raises lambs.

Get the lambs out to grass just as early as possible,
but do not expect them and their mothers to get all their
living from the grass. At first it must be considered as a
relish, and not the main feed, as it becomes a little
later. When they first go to grass, it is just as im-
portant for them to have their hay and grain, as it was
before. One of the greatest mistakes made by the aver-
age farmer in handling his flock of sheep, is this turn-
ing from dry feed to grass in a single day, and then
wondering why his sheep get thin and his lambs do not
thrive and grow. It is a great change, and should not
be made suddenly, as it throws the digestive organs
out of order. Rather should it be made gradually, in
two to three weeks, instead of a single day. At first
turning them out two or three hours in the afternoon,
then all the afternoon, then in the middle of the fore-
noon for the balance of the day, and so on, all the time
gradually reducing the hay ration, and after it the grain,

Page Forty-eight

GOING TO GRASS

until at the end of a month, and sometimes less, de-
pending upon the weather and the growth of the grass,
the flock is entirely on grass.

As the grass grows and takes on more substance, so
that there is strength in it, and you reduce the hay feed-
ing, you will note that you reduce the hay feed in the
morning, and that even after they seem to be nearly on
erass, they will eat a good feed of hay at night. Like-
wise with the grain, the reduction comes first in the
morning feed, and when but one feed a day Is necessary,
it should be given at evening. And while the ewes are
coming to the barn at night to get their feed, the little
lambs can crawl into their creep, and get their grain and
Sal-Vet; care should be taken to keep their trough and
salt box full.

It is very important that the ewes and lambs should
be sheltered from any long, cold rains, such as often occur
at this time of the year, in this northern climate. Warm
showers of short duration do not hurt them, but one of
those cold rains, that last a day or two, do more damage
and take off more flesh, than good feed can put on in
two weeks. See that the sheep are in the barn at such
times.

Before going to grass, the ewes should have their
feet trimmed if they need it, and most sheep do; for after
a winter on warm manure, or at least where there is no
chance to wear off the hard hoof, they have become
long and generally turned over, so that often the sheep
become lame, and, if not properly tended, will permanent-
ly cripple the feet by turning them out of place. ihakeza
good pair of hoof shears, such as you can buy at any
good hardware store, and trim the feet, by cutting off
this overgrowth, and putting the feet into their natural

Page Forty-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

shape, as they should be, to enable the sheep to walk natur-
ally and comfortably. Do not cut the toe squarely, but on
a slant, so that both toe and heel will press the ground
when the sheep walks. Also be careful not to cut the
toe vein, which is done by cutting too short.

Also, often in the spring when there is much rain
and the yards become muddy, in spite of all that one
can do the sheep will get lame, due to mud and manure
sticking between the hoofs, which together with the
warm weather, scaldthe feet. We have seen a whole
flock come down this way inside of 48 hours. Some-
times, if the weather turns dry or cold, or both, they
will heal themselves without any further attention.
But the better way is to treat them at once, and thus
prevent any danger of more serious trouble. Hoof
shears and a good sharp knife, are the essential tools.
Clean the feet well, and pare off all hoof over any in-
fected or sore part, and put onthe sore part and down
between the claws, blue vitriol, either in powdered
form, or dissolved in vinegar. “The main thing is to clean
and pare well; do not be afraid to expose all sore parts
as long as there is any sore part covered with hoof, it will
not heal and dry up. It is also best to put some of the
vitriol in every foot, whether sore or not, and thus pre-
vent any infection. If a stronger remedy is desired, the
vitriol can be mixed with butyr of antimony to form a
thick paste, but this is necessary only in bad cases.

Page Fifty

SPRINGTIME AND PASTURE

Springtime and Pasture.

Spring is the busy and important time for the farm-
er, and among other things which he must do, is to make
provision for feed in the latter part of the summer, when
grass gets short and dry, and to provide his succulent
feed for the next winter. For the former we have found
rape the best feed. “This should be sown as early in the
spring as possible. “The ground should be well fitted,
and the seed can be sown broadcast and _ covered
with a weeder or harrow, or it can be sown in rows with
a garden drill, 28 to 36 inches apart. While the latter
requires a little more work we have found it more satis-
factory, as the rape can then be cultivated and the weeds
kept out of it; the sheep can walk between the rows and
not tramp it down, and it grows enough better, to pay
for the extra expense.

You can turn the sheep or lambs on to this when
it gets about 20 to 24 inches high; let them pick it down,
and it will soon grow up ready for them again. It is
best sown next to a good grass pasture, so that the sheep
can have access to both rape and grass. This will furn-
ish much green feed in the late summer when pastures
are often short. For a late fall feed, rape sown in the
corn just behind the cultivator the last time through the
corn, furnishes much good feed. Dwarf Essex is the best
variety, and three to five pounds per acre, is plenty seed.

For the late winter and early spring feed, the
beets should be sown about cornplanting time. A small
patch, a half acre or a little more on one side of the corn
field, should be well prepared, and the beets drilled with
a garden drill, in rows three feet apart, so that they can
be easily worked with a cultivator. Thinned and hoed

Page Fifty-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

when two or three inches high, and properly tended with
a cultivator, they will produce a large amount of feed,
with a reasonable amount of labor, on a small piece of
sround. Sugar mangels, or stock feeding sugar beets,
are the best for the purpose. ‘[Turnips or rutabagas
sown in the corn at the time of the last cultivating, will
produce much succulent feed for the early part of the
winter, at a minimum expense.

There are some considerations as to pasture, which
are essential to the growth of the lambs and the main-
tenance of the ewes in good condition. Upland pastures
are best, in fact, almost necessary. Often we have seen
farmers put the sheep on a low, marshy pasture and then
wonder why they did not do well. Sheep want high,
dry land, and they do best on the rich, sweet, tender
grasses that grow on such land. ‘Turn a flock of sheep
into a field where there is a hill, and you will see they go
upon the hill every time, other conditions being equal.
They do not like wet feet, nor do they like the coarse, rank
grasses that grow in low, wet places. Wood-lot pastures
are seldom good for sheep, altho they will trim up any
brush that may appear; but the grass is not so good as
that which grows in the sunlight.

Clover, both red and alsyke, furnish the best pasture for
sheep, but owing to the difficulty of maintaining these,
timothy and bluegrass are also necessary; in seeding, the
latter can be sown with the clovers, and will come in just
right when the clovers are gone. Pastures should not
be allowed to become too old; new seedings are better, as
there is not the danger from the worms. Grass should
not be allowed to become too high for good sheep pas-
ture; they like the short, tender shoots. “This does not
mean that a field should be picked bare by other stock

Page Fifty-two

SPRINGTIME AND PASTURE

Good shade is an essential part of good sheep pasture.

and then the sheep turned in, thinking they will do well,
where there is nothing. But they do not like tall,
coarse grasses, like timothy that is full grown. Change
of pasture is necessary, even if only between two fields
which may be very similar. Sheep like a change, just as
a man does; also a variety; thus the need of several
grasses, in the same field. “The ewes and lambs should
be furnished the pasture best suited to them; for only by
giving them the best feed, can they earn you the most
profits.

Good shade is an essential part of a good sheep pas-
ture. Large trees are the best for this purpose, and
where there are none of these natural shades, the good

Page Fifty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

shepherd will furnish a covering under which the sheep
can find shelter, from the hot sun, during the heat of the
day. ‘Their better growth will more than pay for such
shelter. If you have ever noticed a flock of lambs, fight-
ing flies and the heat, in the shade of a wire fence, and
on the next farm saw another flock resting and chewing
their cuds under a spreading oak tree, you may have
been able to tell why the one flock grew better and
made more money for their owner. You may be so
situated that it is necessary for the flock to come to the
barn for water, and then they can stay there during the ~
heat of the day. But we prefer the shade tree out in
the open field.

Water is as essential as grass and shade. The ideal
water is a small brook of running water, or a spring.
Failing this, any source which supplies clean, fresh water
answers this purpose. [he important thing is that the
sheep have it some time during the day. And that does
not mean from some muddy, stagnant pool.

Worms.

When once the ewes and lambs are entirely on pas-
ture, the close attention in the barn is not required,
but they will not look after themselves at all times.
While they can secure their own feed without help, yet
the flock should be seen at least once a day, to guard
against accidents and unforeseen contingencies. Some-
times an accident befalls a ewe, such as becoming
fast in a depression, of a dead-furrow; or, a little lamb
gets into trouble with the fence or something else; these

Page Fifty-four

WORMS

and many more, which have happened to us in our ex-
perience, and have cost us dearly, remind us that it pays
to look after the sheep once a day.

It is also during the spring and summer when sheep
are on pasture, that the great enemy of the sheep on the
average American farm, gets in his deadly work. This
probably has caused more loss to sheep farmers, than any
other one thing. That enemy is worms; worms inside
the sheep and outside also, altho they are not at all simi-
lar. The outside worm, which is called maggot, comes
only occasionally, is easily discerned, and is destroyed
without injurious effect upon the sheep. But the inside
worm, the deadly stomach worm, is the one which does
the damage. How, when, and whence he comes, are
not always known to the most expert shepherds, but
heroic measures are generally necessary, to drive him from
a sheep’s stomach, when once installed.

In damp, rainy, muggy weather, such as we often
have in the spring and summer, one must watch for
maggots. It seems as if there were certain times when
those obnoxious green flies, which deposit the blows
from which come the maggots, are busier than at any
other time; and they keep a good shepherd busy with
the shears and a can of good coal-tar dip. “These flies
are busiest about the hind parts of the ewe or lamb,
especially if there should be some dirty wet wool, but we
have seen them work under the eyes, on the belly, and
even right on the side of the sheep, where there seemed
to be no apparent cause for it. At such times they
work with incredible rapidity, for we have known sheep
to be killed with them, in two or three days. You can
easily discern them when they are present, for the sheep
will bitethe part where they are, and the wool will appear
wet and dirty. Shear off all the wool where they are,

Page Fifty-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

pour on some coal-tar dip, diluted about one part to —
twenty-five parts water, and in ordinary cases there will
be no more trouble. If the maggots should have eaten
into the flesh so that it is raw and sore, it is best to put
on some clean pine tar, which will heal the wound, and
at the same time, keep the flies away. Such sheep
should be closely watched for two or three days, until the
affected part is thoroughly healed or dried.

In summer, when a farmer is busiest with his farm
work, the deadly stomach worm likewise gets busy in
his lamb flock. Unless he is watchful, his first knowledge
of their presence, will be a dead lamb, and unless there
is some other evident cause, he may be pretty safe in at-
tributing the cause of death to worms. If he wants
to besure, let him open the lamb in the fourth stomach,
and there he will find a mass of reddish like worms,
about three-quarters inch long and the size of a hair.
These are stomach worms; and if thislamb has them, he
may be sure that every other lamb inthat flock has them
to a greater or less degree, and it is his turn to get busy.

Our method in such case is to take the flock to the
barn at night, keep them there over night, away from
all feed and drink, from twelve to eighteen hours, and
give each lamb a dose of one tablespoonful of gasoline in
one-third teacupful milk, fresh from the cow, mixing
each dose separately, and giving it by means of a long-
necked bottle. Give this treatment three successive
mornings. Then keep a medicated salt, like Sal-Vet by
them all the time, and no other salt. Even with this
treatment some may be so badly infected, that nothing
can save them, but they are worth the trial. Preven-
tion, however, is always cheaper and better, than a cure
and we have found a preventive in Sal-Vet, when prop-

Page Fifty-six

WORMS

er conditions of pasture are maintained and it is kept
constantly before the flock, so they can eat all they want,
and have no other salt. We have found this economical
to use, under all conditions.

To the watchful farmer, the first indication of worms
will be some of the younger lambs lagging behind when
the flock moves; on examination it will be found to have
pale, bloodless skin, the eye will be dull and listless, and
very pale; the lamb will be thin and weak, perhaps scour-
ing, and in some, the lips and under the jaw will swell
and fill with a watery fluid, which appears just before
death. Any time the lambs do not appear fat and thriv-
ing, when they have apparently good feed, you may be
quite sure that worms are there. The younger lambs
are generally first affected, asthey are least able to with-
stand the ravages of worms.

We have also known many cases in which the
worms did not prove fatal until the following winter and
spring. “Laking in these worms in the summer, the
lambs may have been strong and offered such resistance
to the worms, as to have shown little or no effects of
them, and while starting into winter in rather thin flesh,
the unsuspecting farmer attributes their lack of condi-
tion to short feed or perhaps his own negligence and
thinks by good feeding, to gain what they should have had
in the fall. Instead, however, the lambs remain thin, often
concealing their real condition from the average man, by
their long fleece, until some day, one is found dead;
then the farmer wonders what was the cause. Nine times
out of ten it is the same old trouble, stomach worms.
Likewise, we have known flocks in which the pests had
appeared in the lambs during the summer, apparently
been driven out by thorough treatment, further preven-
tive measures neglected, and the next spring some of

Page Fifty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

those same lambs would grow thin and die, even after
going to grass.

Extensive experiments, observations, and experience
have demonstrated some things about stomach worms.
Briefly they are this: that they are carried and develop
in mature sheep, pass from them in their droppings, in
which the larvae are deposited; in warm, wet weather
these hatch and live in the droppings, until the young
worms attain enough life and strength to move; then
they crawl up and fasten themselves to the blades of
grass, and with them, are taken into the lamb’s stomach.
Old pastures, especially blue grass and timothy, are thus
most liable to be infected, and lambs should be kept off
them. New seedings of grass and fresh crops like rape,
are not infected. It also requires warm weather and
considerable moisture to enable the worm to hatch in
the dropping and live on the grass. Thus we see that a
hot summer with abundant rain, or a low, moist field
where the grass grows freely, is conducive to worms.

It is claimed that ten days is the minimum time in
which a worm can pass from one sheep and be reproduced
in another, but of course, under conditions unfavorable
to them, more time is required. A young lamb is born
uninfected, and the only way for him to become
infected, is by taking the worm from the grass, into
his system. Some therefore advocate a complete
change of pasture every ten days or two _ weeks,
to keep the lamb from becoming infected. Such
method does not seem practical for the average farmer,
as he has not sufficient pasture to do this. Others ad-
vocate keeping the lamb in the barn and the feeding of
soiling crops, such as rape, green corn, and grass on
which no sheep have pastured; but this is too expensive
in this land of high-priced labor.

Page Fifty-eight

WORMS

Eternal vigilance on the part of the shepherd, is the
price of the healthy lambs. Not for one instant may he
relax his guard in this great struggle with his arch enemy.
In search of the most efficient weapon to keep off this pest,
we have tried many things. Some do one thing, some
another, but there are so many varying conditions and
various symptoms and results, and with all must enter in
the factors of practicability and economy, that we have
found most of them wanting. All factors considered,
we have found Sal-Vet the most satisfactory preventive,
but with it some things are necessary. It must be kept
before the sheep and lambs, where they can have easy
and constant access to it allthe time, and should not be
mixed with other salt. In case of apparent and severe
infection, it should be given in good sized doses, by force;
for in such cases the lamb will not eat enough of his
own volition, to produce the desired results. Keep the
lambs off the old pastures, put them on new _ seedings
and rape, give them good grain feed and Sal-Vet, and
much of the worm troubles of the lambs, will be pre-
vented.

Summer Care.

Besides watching the worm pests, It is necessary to
furnish the flock proper and plenty pasture, with its
necessary attendants of water, shade and salt. For the
latter, a box one by two feet, four to six inches deep,
twelve to sixteen inches from the ground, with a proper
cover to protect from rain and sun, should be furnished,
and in this should always be kept an ample supply of

Page Fifty-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Southdown lambs on an Enslish estate

‘Sal-Vet.’ This box should never be empty, and the
lambs should always have access to it.

If it is intended to sell the lambs at weaning time,
they should be fed grain in the field every day, by means
of a creep built in the field. A few good panels, wired
to posts, will easily make such pen, while openings just
large enough for the lambs, can be made so they can get
to the grain. They should be fed all the oats they will
eat, so that at weaning time, they should be fat and
ready for market.

Weaning time should come when the lamb is four
to five months old, depending somewhat upon condi-
tions of weather and feed. If going to market, the lamb
ought to go there direct from the ewe to prevent
any unnecessary shrinkage attendant upon weaning.

Page Sixty

SUMMER CARE

If not, the lambs should be taken from the ewes and
put on the freshest and best pasture possible; this is gen-
erally a new-mown clover meadow, where the grass is
short and tender. ‘The rape patch should also be ready
by this time; here they can go in the afternoon, after
the dew is off the rape and they have filled themselves
in the morning with grass, until they have become used
to going into the rape. Otherwise there is much
danger of bloating and loss. As soon as they are accus-
tomed to the rape, in a week or ten days, they can be
let to run in it at will, provided there is plenty grass, to
which they can go when they wish.

In case of bloating, a mild case can be relieved by
putting pine tar in the mouth and on the nose; or better, a
heaping teaspoonful of common baking soda, dissolved in
a little warm water, given as soon as seen, and another
dose in a few minutes, if relief is not apparent. Another
good way is to tie a stick in the mouth, bit-fashion.
Exercise is also necessary; keep the animal moving, so
that the gas will move and escape. If none of these
afford relief, it is necessary to tap the animal on the left
side on the paunch at a point equidistant from the back-
bone and the end of the last rib. This can be done
with a small, sharp knife, or better with a small trocar.
We have seldom found this latter necessary.

After weaning, we have found that the lambs need
a daily feed of oats, even if not very heavy. A little
grain thus keeps them growing and in good condition,
aids in retaining that lamb fat, and helps to take the
place of the ewe’s milk; they will gain more than enough
to pay the cost. From now on they need good sensible
care, feeding-them such feeds and in such quantities as
is necessary to put them in the best condition for the
purpose for which you want them, whether it be to

Page Sixty-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

market them at Christmas time, or later in the winter,
or in the spring after shearing, or to retain in the breed-
ing flock. Well bred sheep, given plenty feed and good
care, will bring substantial profits to their owner.

As for the ewes, they should be watched for a few
days after weaning, and about the second morning, any
which show large, full udders, should be caught and
milked by hand; doing this once or twice, generally finds
them dried up. For a time now they can run on rather
short feed and do well. Stubble fields furnish good feed,
and the ewes will do a good job of weed cleaning.
At this time they will require probably less attention
than at any other time of the year.

The one thing that is necessary, is that they have
such feed as will put them in good condition for the
breeding season; a thin ewe is liable not to settle in
lamb, and in any case it is much more difficult and more
expensive to fleshen a ewe properly after she is bred,
than before. Also by good condition, we mean what
many farmers call fat; no ewe wiil become too fat for
breeding on good pasture. Heavy grain feeding is the
only dangerous fattener, but few farmers think of that
when the ewes are on grass. But if the ewes should be
thin after weaning, and they are to be bred soon, some
grain may be necessary to put them in proper condition.

This is the proper time to cull out any that are not
wanted in the breeding flock for another year. Ewes
that have proven barren, that have lost one or both sides
of their udder, those that have broken mouths, or for
any other reason you wish to dispose of them, this is the
time to cull them out and sell. Or if you are feeding a
bunch for market sometime during the winter, you can
put them with those, and fat them before selling, and
thus get more from them. None but good breeders that

Page Sixty-two

SUMMER CARE

raise their lambs well should be retained; old ewes
should likewise go, unless they are very good breeders.
Only by thus culling, and putting in their places good
young ewes, can improvement be made.

In determining the age of a sheep, if you have no
record, the only way is by the teeth. A lamb has all
small or milk teeth, and at the age of fifteen to eighteen
months, the two middle teeth will drop out and two
larger, wider teeth take their places; at about 21 to 24
months, two more large teeth will appear, one on each
side of those already in; at about 30 to 33 months, two
more appear in the same manner, and about 3% years
the last ones show; then we say that the sheep is full-
mouthed.

Two large teeth indicate a yearling, four a
two-year old, six a three-year old. After they are full-
mouthed there is no way of determining exactly. When
the teeth begin to wear off and to spread apart, it is gen-
erally time for the ewe to be traveling to market.

The Shepherd and His Flock

For thousands of years, back to the days of ancient
mythology, the sheep has ever held prominent place.
The first man’s son was a shepherd, while “‘from the
firstlings of his flock’? came the first sacrificial offer-
ing, acceptable to the Creator. The ancient legends
of the Greeks tell us of the famed ram and_ his
Golden Fleece, and their poets sang of the beauties
of the pastoral life, as well as the dignities of the
spinning of wool in their households. The scholarly
historians of Rome at the zenith of her power, tell us of
the sheep in Asia and southern Europe, while the first

Page Sixty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

work of her rulers who invaded Britain, was to set up
mills to spin and weave the fleece of the sheep.

No possession of the kings and nobles of Spain, dur-
ing the long years of her supremacy on both landandsea, was
more highly prized, more zealously guarded, nor more
eagerly sought, by the strong rulers of Britain and conti-
nental Europe, than were her famous cabanas of Merino
sheep. Columbus brought sheep to the New World; so
did many other of the early explorers, while all the early
colonists brought small flocks with them from their na-
tive lands. Of no possession on their broad Virginia es-
tates, were George Washington and Thomas Jefferson
more proud than of their sheep, while no work of the
early envoys of America to foreign lands, produced greater
results, than that in connection with the importation of
Merino sheep. And today rulers and men high in the
councils of the state, in every part of the world, point
with pride to their flocks.

From time immemorial, in every clime, sheep hus-
bandry has been the favored occupation of men
in every station of life, producing the two essen-
tial necessities of civilized mankind, food and cloth-
ing. No meat finds its way to any man ’s table, which is
so clean and so healthful, so juicy and so savory, as the
mutton chop and the leg of lamb. No product has yet
been found which is at once so universal, so useful, and
so ornamental, as wool. Produced in every country, hot
or cold, barren or fertile, in Australia and in Siberia, in
Africa and in Argentine, it travels the commercial high-
ways of land and sea, to the trade and manufacturing
centers of the world, is there transformed into clothes
which protect the leper from the elements, as well as
into fabrics which adorn the fashionable lady, and thus
ultimately, finds its way to those for whom it is intended.

Page Sixty-four

THE SHEPHERD AND HIS FLOCK

In this long process of transferring wool from the
back of the sheep, to that of man, is involved tne labor
and skill and capital of many men. But whoever comes
in contact with wool in its globe-encircling journey, finds
himself dealing and associating with the ablest, shrewd-
est, and most intelligent men in the commercial world.
while the men of no trade, business, nor profession, take
higher rank, nor attain greater prestige.

Humble and meek and timid though they may be, yet
by sheep, have men ofall ages and all nations, won the way
to dignified positions of honor, wealth, and power. In
sheep, the master livestock breeders of the world, have
found material which was wort hy of their best efforts, not
only in the molding of form,but also in influencing different
characteristics of fleece and in addition to these, such
combinations as are best adapted to varying condi-

tions of environment. In the improvement of sheep
haye American breeders shown their greatest skill, and
their product has been sought by the breeders of foreign
lands, as has no other class of live stock. In acentury they
have doubled the average weight of carcass, and more
than trebled the average weight of fleece, besides having

made great improvements in form and in character of
fleece.

The farmer who raises sheep should take great
pride in his flock, and give it his best efforts. He should
be proud of the fact that no man’s calling rests on more
ancient, more universal, or more noble foundation, serves
a more necessary, more useful, nor more beneficial pur-
pose, nor provides greater profit, pleasure, or prestige.

Page Sixty-five

Lamb Feeding

From “‘Modern Sheep; Breeds and Management” by “Shepherd Boy.”’
Published by the American Sheep Breeder Co., Chicago.

HE main features in fattening lambs, are to get

iy good lambs and good feed, and then a careful
we feeder to feed them. Sometimes when the

¥ lambs are not thriving properly, a change of ra-
tions will bring about an improvement, but of course
the change from green rations to those of a dry nature
must be gradual, or trouble will crop up. One of the
greatest errors that the novice is liable to fall into, is
stuffing his lambs. He does not seem to consider that
it is not the amount of feed given, so much as it is the
amount assimilated, that brings the desired results.
As the author has often pointed out in his earlier writ-
ings, the lamb feeder needs to see his lambs before eat-
ing, during the time of eating and after they have eaten,
to know how they are doing.

One of the most important considerations in lamb
feeding, where you raise your own lambs, is to keep them
growing rapidly on grass in the summer, and to have
them in as fine a condition as possible, by fall.

Lambs, to fatten properly, must be fed regularly
twice a day, morning and evening. Regularly does not
mean five o’clock one morning and seven or eight o’clock
the next,nor five o’clock one evening and eight o’clock
the next. Lambs, to fatten properly, must be fed by
the watch.

In an address beforethe Missouri Improved Live
Stock Breeder’s Ass’n. on feeding lambs, some time ago,
Jacob Ziegler, of Clinton, IIl., said:

‘Lambs should have grain from the time they are
ten weeks old till the following spring. A trough can

Page Sixty-six

LAMB FEEDING

be set with oats in it, outside of the pasture fence, near
the watering place, with an opening in the fence for the
lambs to get to it. They will learn to eat by the time
they are four months old, at which time they should be
weaned. In weaning, give them the best green pasture
you have and what oats they want to eat and plenty of
good water and salt. “They should be kept in that way
until they are put into winter quarters; then they should
have from a half pint to a pint equally, of shelled corn
and oats per day, according to the size and breed of the
sheep, with all they can eat of good hay. Stockers will
do well on good hay alone, but better on a variety; add
a little grain, in stormy weather. A daily ration of one
pound of grain with straw stover of any kind of rough-
ness, is a good feed for stockers.

They can be fattened on various feeds, such as corn,
peas, beets, barley, oats, clover and grass. They do well
on either. But for winter feeding, my best results have
been from corn and clover hay, which fatten fast and
make the best mutton, and, when all things are con-
sidered, is as cheap as any, except green ‘clover, which
produces cheap mutton, but the losses from clover bloat,
and low price of sheep at that time of year, reduce profits
in proportion.

I feed two bushels of corn twice a day at regular
hours, to 100 sheep (I am speaking of the mutton kind,
averaging about 100 pounds) and as much clover hay as
they will eat up clean, which will be on an average of
about 200 pounds per day. They will however, need
and eat more at the start, but will decrease in eating
hay, as the grain ration is increased. Care, however,
must be taken in starting them on grain, so as not to

Page Sixty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

overfeed them. Feed a bushel twice a day to start on,
then lightly increase daily, till you get them on full feed;
larger sheep need more and smaller less, in proportion to
weight. . The corm is cut an inch long with*a ‘corm-cur
ter and fed in troughs 10 inches wide, 7 inches deep in
the clear; 12 to 14 feet longis a nice length, but length
may be made to suit fancy. “The corn may be fed shell-
ed, but I do not like it so well, for the reason they can
eat. it too fast, and some get more than they need, but
in cut corn the eating process is slower and better mas-
ticated, and gives a better chance for allto get their share.

‘They should always have free access to fresh water ~
and salt, and never be left without it. They do not
drink so much at a time, but often. Good, thrifty sheep
thus fed, will fatten and gain from thirty to thirty-five
pounds each, in seventy-five days, and ought then to go
to market, for it rarely ever pays to feed them longer.
The gain, however, will depend largely on their condi-
tion when put up for feeding. If fairly fat, they don’t
gain as much as if in moderate flesh and thrifty, nor do
they require as much feeding, nor aslong feeding.

If you have no clover for hay, then sow one-half
bushels of oats with one bushel of field peas per acre,
and cut when in dough and cure like hay. It yields big
and is a fine substitute for clover hay. Corn fodder does
well, but is not as good as either of the former.

Never allow feeding sheep grass, in winter. The
grass is too light and soft to be of any real value to them,
and the losses in searching and rambling after it and the
refusal of other feed, more than double the supposed gain.

‘The feed lot should be in a dry place and havea
shed, closed at one side andthe ends, and roofed over to
keep out rain and wind, and bothit andthe yard should
be well bedded with corn stalks or litter, to prevent mud

Page Sixty-eight

LAMB FEEDING

and wasting ofthe manure. A timber lot or small grove
well set with trees, is a good place to feed in. The
trees are protection enough without the shed, but in a
wet winter, a shed is far better and the manure cannot
be saved as well.

Salt and hay should always be fed under cover, hay in
racks and salt in troughs; economy in feeding demands
this system, for water-soaked hay is always rejected by
sheep, and rain wastes much salt.

From my own experience, it pays best to feed
sheep: first, they return more pounds of gain for the
amount of food consumed than cattle or hogs, and mut-
ton brings more per pound, than beef or pork, and fur-
nishes better manure, than either of the others.

My sheep have gained, from start of feeding to
finish, eight to ten pounds of mutton per bushel of corn,
while the gain of my cattle of equal quality and feed, runs
from seven to eight pounds. And my hogs eat corn from
first to last, and only a little grass for change, while my
sheep eat grass; grass from first to last, and only a little
corn to start lambs and finish them. ‘That is the cheap
feed, versus high priced feed.

And I also find from my shipping bills which I have
saved for twenty-five years, from 1873 to 1898 that the
average price received from my stock in Chicago during
that period was $4.93 per 100 pounds for sheep, $4.86
for steers, and $4.85 for hogs. And the average weight
was: Sheep 126% pounds, steers 1,354 pounds, and
hogs, 218% pounds. From this you can see they had
to be all good stock to average that weight.

Page Sixty-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

A carload of heavy lambs at the stock yards.

Marketing Sheep and Lambs

There is a good deal more in how sheep and lambs
are marketed than many may think. It does not pay to
rush sheep to market in a half-fat condition, because
there happens to be a falling off in shipments at any par-
ticular time, and record prices have resulted from such
conditions. Sheep and lambs should be marketed either
fat or as feeders. In marketing in a half-fat condition,
the chances are you will be losing money and giving the
buyer, who likely will be a feeder, the benefit of your

Page Seventy

MARKETING SHEEP AND LAMBS

misjudgment. Rushing stock to market because high
prices rule for a day or so, is not wise because a
glut almost always follows. It is important that sheep
and lambs be properly graded before being shipped, as
they make a better and more uniform appearance.
Lambs of moderate quality when properly graded, make
a much better showing than those of superior quality,
when marketed in bunch. When shipping, the car
should be well bedded and everything possible done for
the comfort of the shipment. It is better to ship to
well known commission firms, than to be changing around
from one house to another and falling into the hands of
those of whom you know nothing. ‘The following are
the stockyard commission rules as applied to sheep in
most stockyard markets: Single-deck cars containing
thirty head or more, $8. Double-deck carloads of sheep,
$12. Sheep originating in double-deck cars, but for any
reason arriving in single-deck cars, where double-deck
freight rates are applied, may be sold at the double-deck
commission, viz., $12. Less than thirty head of sheep
in a single car deck, with no other stock in the car,
shall be charged for at the rate of 15 cents per head.
Sheep driven or hauled in, 15c per head.

Feeding and Care of Sheep.

By HENRY L. WARDWELL,
Ex.-Pres. Am. Shropshire Reg. Ass’n., Springfield Center, N. Y.

T’S of no use for a man to buy a good flock of
sheep and then not take care of them.
‘The reason they are good, is first, proper care
in the selection of ewes and rams, and then

good feed and proper care; and without this a flock

Page Seventy-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOCK

Champion Get of Sire Shropshires from Mr. Wardwell’s Pinehurst farm

master cannot hope for success.

At the time of mating the ewes with the ram, if
the ewes are put on an aftermath of flush pasture, they
are more apt to come in heat and take the ram quicker,
and this brings your lambs in a shorter time, and the
lambing is over with more quickly, than if they come
along, in say two or three months. See that your
sheep are in a pasture that has shade and water. When
they come to the barn in winter, give them clover or
alfalfa hay if obtainable—otherwise, the finer hay. Ewes
will not do well on timothy, and I think will do as well
or better, on oat straw.

Have a rack outside of the barn, say 20 rods away;
carry their hay toit. The exercise of going this far for

Page Seventy-two .

MARKETING SHEEP AND LAMBS

their feed, and the fresh air they get, will tend to keep
them healthy. See that the old and thin ewes are put
by themselves; a handful of oats and bran, mixed once a
day with a little oil meal, will not only help the ewes,
but bring stronger lambs.

When the lamb comes, the shepherd should be on
hand; see that the lamb gets some of the mother’s milk
and that she properly owns it. Put the ewe and her
lambs in a small pen about 4 feet square, for about two
or three days until they know each other well, and un-
til the lamb gets strong enough to keep out of the
way of the old ewes. After the ewes have lambed,
they should, if possible, have roots to increase the flow
of milk. (I am speaking of ewes lambing in February
and March). ‘The ewes and lambs should have good
shelter from snow and cold rains at this time, but on
pleasant days, exercise outside is beneficial. By arrang-
ing a creep for the lambs, a place where they can go,
but the mothers cannot, extra feed can be given to
the lambs. Keep your lambs growing all the time.
When ten days old, dock your lambs and castrate those
not kept for rams, at about two weeks old. When your
lambs are weaned, itsa good plan to fast them for 12
hours, and to give them a drench. ‘The lambs should
be put on a new pasture, one that has not been
sheeped before, say on a meadow aftermath. I have
just cut a field of timothy hay that went nearly, if
not quite, 3 tons to the acre, that carried lambs last
year, and I cannot see but what the crop was benefitted.
At this time we have troughs in the field and the
lambs are grained, that is, given a handful each of a
mixture of oats, bran and oil meal or cracked oil cake.
I prefer the latter. Your lambs should now average

Page Seventy-three

SAL-VET SHHEP BOOK

80 or 100 pounds, and are ready for the butcher, if
graded. If pure bred, to be kept for breeding flocks,
keep them growing on their grain food, until one year
old.

You will probably say this is a lot of trouble; it
sounds so in print, but it will pay you well and you will
enjoy the sight of a thrifty flock, and when you come
to selling them, they will delight the buyer, and you
will reap your reward, not only in the increase of price,
which will pay for your trouble, but in the satisfaction
you will have, in having done your best for the beast.

Change your sheep to fresh pastures as often as pos-
sible, even if, after a rest of say two weeks, you go back
to the old pastures.

Page Seventy-four

CLASSIFICATION OF BREEDS

No breed of domestic sheep is native to this country.
The various kinds having been imported from Europe
from time to time, since Coronado brought the first flock
to New Mexico in 1540. On the other hand, in no
country, has there been greater advancement of the differ-
ent types, than we find in the United States.

The sheep thrives well in our climate and has re-
sponded readily to the excellent care in breeding and the
scientific feeding, for which American flockmasters are
famed.

For convenience we classify the more prominent
breeds, according to their fleece, as follows:

Fine Wool Breeds

American Merino. Delaine Merino.
Rambouillet.

Medium Wool Breeds

Shropshire. Cheviot.
Oxford. Suffolk.
Hampshire. Pee mise
Southdown. Dorset Horn.

Long Wool Breeds

Leicester. Lincoln.
Cotswold. Wensleydales.

Page Seventy-five

A State Fair group of American Merinos

The American Merino.

This breed is descended from importations made direct-
ly from Spain, in the early part of the last century. Early
development was largely toward wrinkly, oily, heavy
fleeced sheep, the object being to secure density and
weight of fleece. This type is known as the A”? Mer-
ino or Vermont’’ Merino.

The present tendency is to breed larger, smoother
sheep, with plain, smooth bodies, longer wool, compara-
tively free from grease; these are known as Merino B”’
type. The face is white and the head closely capped
with wool, extending down onto the bridge of the nose
and surrounding the eyes. “The ears are small, pointed
and covered with wool and a growth of soft hair. The
horns of the ram spring strong and completely clear the
face. [he wool staples are from 2 to 3 inches long.

Page Seventy-six

BREEDS

Rambouiliet Ewe, from the flock of King Bros., Laramie, Wyo.

The Rambouillet.

This breed originated in Spain, from where it was im-
ported to the Royal Estates in Rambouillet, France, in
1786. From here the first importations to the United
States were made in 1840. Rambouillets are pure blood
Merinos, having all the essential Merino characteristics
and are recognized as a good breed for wool and mutton
combination. The wool is of fine, to medium fine grade,
with a staple of 2% to 4 inches. This breed is the larg-
est of the Merinos and is rapidly increasing in popularity
throughout this country. Rambouillets are easily kept,
well adapted to range countries, and the lambs are uni-
formly large, weighing from 80 to 100 Ibs. at 6 months old.

Page Seventy-seven

A Typical Delaine Merino Ewe.

The Delaine Merino.

This breed is of the same origin as the American Mer-
ino, but the aim in breeding, has been to secure a long,
fine staple of wool, free from grease, and a smoother
form. [he Delaine Merino has been enlarged and
smoothed by the development of a tendency to take
on flesh. The fleece covers the entire body, including
the head and legs, and is comparatively free from wrink-
les. The nose is short and broad with well expanded
nostrils. “he breed was first developed in Pennsylvania
and Ohio, and is recognized as a hardy, long-lived sheep,
especially suited to sections where the climate is change-
able, and where it is necessary to run them in large
flocks on short, scanty herbage.

Page Seventy-eight

Champion Shropshire Ram from the flock of McKerrow & Sons,
Pewaukee, Wis.

The Shropshire.

This breed is justly popular, because of the quality and
quantity of both wool and mutton. It originated in
what is known as Morfe Commons, England, and is no
doubt the product of careful selection, as well as cross
breeding, with the Southdown, Cotswold and Leicester.
The following are the distinguishing characteristics of
this breed. ‘The fleece is very dense, about three inches
long, should part readily and be clear white in color.
‘The wool forms a heavy cap between the ears, extending
down onto the ridge of the nose and joining below the
eyes with the wool of the cheeks. “The ears should be
far apart, pointed, moderately thick and covered to the
tip with fine, curly wool. The legs and face should be
marked in a rich dark brown color. No evidence what-
ever of horns should be seen.

Page Seventy-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Hampshire Ram owned by C. O. Judd, Kent, Ohio

The Hampshire.

This breed is a native of Hampshire, England, and is
noted for its large, strong frame and hardy constitution.
The head is moderately large, but not coarse, and well
covered with wool on the forehead and cheeks. ‘The
nostrils are wide, the eyes prominent and lustrous, the
ears moderately long and thin, and dark brown or black
in color. “The legs are black, straight and well under
the outside of body. The back is straight, with
full spring of ribs. “The neck is set high up on body.
The wool is moderately short, dense and strong in fibre.
Lambs of this breed develop rapidly, attaining a heavy
weight at an early age.

Page Highty

BREEDS

Southdown Ewe owned by Chas. Leet & Son, Mantua, Ohio

The Southdown.

This popular breed is the oldest pure breed of short
wooled sheep, having originated on the Downs of Sussex,
in England. The general characteristics are a symmetri-
cal, compact body, with very refined features, short, mod-
erate sized head, small pointed ears, brown or gray face,
with forehead and cheeks covered with wool; the neck
is very short and straight, the breast broad and full; the
back straight, well covered and knit closely. The loin is
wide, straight and smooth. ‘The hips are wide, but not
prominent. Horns are entirely absent. he fleece is
very fine and dense; the wool of medium length and
especially uniform in quality.

Page Highty-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

4

Champion Oxford Ewe owned by McKerrow & Sons, Pewaukee, Wis.

The Oxford.

This comparatively modern breed originated in the
county of Oxford, England, from crossing the Cotswold
and Hampshire breeds. “The head of the Oxford differs
from the Shropshire, in being longer, and not so densely
wooled below the eyes. ‘The ear is slightly larger and
longer. The face and legs are marked in gray or brown.
Short legs, well apart and placed squarely under the
body, add to the contour. A heavy fleece, moderately
open, and of a long, strong fiber, cover the heavy body.
When matured, the Oxford Down is large in size and
strong in frame. It is a prolific breed and combines the
early maturity, and ample fleece of the Cotswold, ,with
the fine wool and mutton of the Downs.

Page Highty-two

BREEDS

Dorset Horn Ewe owned by The University of Illinois, Champaign, III.

The Dorset Horn.

This was originally a mountain breed of sheep, native
to Dorsetshire and Somersetshire, in the south of Eng-
land. Careful breeding has modified this type consider-
ably, so the Dorset of today shows an excellent form,
long and round bodied, but compactly built. A white
face, large nostrils, small horns gracefully curved for-
ward and rather close to the jaws, characterize the
Dorset. The eyes are bright and prominent, the head is
well covered with wool on the crown, and the ears are
moderately large and covered with short, white hair.
The neck is strongly set, shoulders are broad and full,
back flat and straight and the quarters wide and full.
The fleece is of medium grade and of even quality.

Page Highty-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Cheviot Ram and Ewe owned by J. R. Nash, Tipton, Ind.

The Cheviot.

This breed is characterized by hardiness and unusual
activity. [his is no doubt due to the fact that they have
been bred and raised on the hills of Scotland for more
than 200 years. Originating in the Cheviot Mountains,
Cheviot sheep are today the most common sheep on the
Scotch border. The animals are pert, active, bright
eyed, ears are fine and the face keen, pure white and
free from wool from the ears forward, without any indi-
cation of horns. ‘he chest is deep, the girth full, and
the back rather short, but strong, and the body is particu-
larly low set and covered with long, dense fleece of fine
texture. [he legs are white, free from wool to the
knees and hocks, and the hoofs are black.

Page HMighty-four

BREEDS

A flock of Tunis sheep

The Tunis Sheep.

The first pair of Tunis or broad tailed sheep was im-
ported to this country from Tunis, in 1799. They have
a broad, straight, well proportioned body with wide
breast. The head is small, hornless and tapers to the
nose. Face and nose free from wool. Color of face and legs
brown or white; the ears are broad, thin and hanging
or pendulous; color, brown or fawn and covered with
fine hair. The fleece is of medium length, quality and
quantity; sometimes tinctured with gray. ‘The tail, after
docking the small end, is fan shaped or tapering five or
ten inches broad and six or eight inches long, well cov-
ered with wool. This breed matures and lambs early.

Page Highty-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Cotswold Ewe

The Cotswold.

The Cotswold is a native of the Cotswold Hills in
Gloucestershire, England. It is one of the oldest breeds,
as well as one of the largest, most finished and uniform.
The animal of this breed is remarkably square of body,
with somewhat long face, colored white, or slightly mixed
with grey or brown and with a beautiful tuft of wool
falling over the face. [he ears are small, the back 1s
long and broad, and the hind quarters are square. It
has a long, lustrous and wavy fleece with a strong fiber
and parts naturally into locks. In spite of the promr-
nence which mark the eyes, they are mild and expressive.
The Cotswolds are very prolific and fatten rapidly.

Page Bighty-six

BREEDS

Typical Leicester Ram and Ewe

Leicesters.

This breed is the father of all the long wool breeds,
having originated in Leicestershire, England, in the 18th.
century. The face is bare and pure white, the body is
square and the forequarters are especially full and the
hind quarters rounded at the top peculiarly. This breed
is fine of bone, and the fleece is remarkably fine and lus-
trous, considering its length, which frequently measures
five to six inches. ‘The legs of this breed are bare to
considerably above the knee and hock, and marked a pure
white, like the face. Leicesters have hardy constitutions,
are good breeders, and produce a wealth of wool; their
fleece frequently weighs from 21 to 28 ]bs. They are
especially popular in Canada.

Page Highty-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

A prize-winning Lincoln Ram, owned by W. I. Woodcock, Corvallis. Ore.

Lincolns.

This is one of the largest of the long wooled breeds,
vying with the Cotswold for first position. Lincoln sheep
originated in Lincolnshire, England, and occupy a prom-
inent position today, both as wool growers and producers
of mutton. [hey are squarely built, faces pure white,
somewhat long and surmounted by a tuft of wool. ‘he
back is wide, level and the hind quarters are unusually
well developed. Their wool is long in fibre, lustrous
and very strong. Lincolns mature early and fatten
rapidly.

Page Highty-eight

BREEDS

The Suffolk.

According to the Suffolk Sheep Society Flock Book of
England, where this breed originated, and is still largely
confined, the typical Suffolk should be characterized by
lack of horns, long black face, muzzle, moderately fine,
medium length ears, black and of fine texture; eyes
bright andfull. The neck should be of moderate length,
shoulders broad and oblique, chest deep and wide, back
long and level, with broad tail, well set up. The legs
are straight and black wooled to the knees and hocks,
and clean below. The fleece is moderately short, close
and of fine fiber, without tendency to mat or shade off
into darker colors. he Suffolk sheep is especially prized
for the fine quality of its mutton.

Wensleydales.

This breed is comparatively unknown in America, but
one of recognized merit in England where it originated.
In general form, the Wensleydale sheep perhaps resemble
the Leicesters most closely. The face is dark, the ears
dark and well set on, the head is broad and flat between
the ears, with a tuft of wool on the forehead. The eyes
are bright and full; the neck is moderately long,
shoulders broad, chest deep and wide, back broad with
well sprung ribs. The tail is broad, the legsare straight,
with a little fine wool below the hocks and the fleece is
long, bright, lustrous and well curled all over the body.

Page Highty-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Diseases

f=|OOD fat sheep are the result of care-

| ful raising and seeing to it that every
ounce of food they eat is converted
into so much mutton and wool. The
best results cannot be obtained if worms are
allowed to infest the flock. These ravenous
pests cause fully 90 per cent of all the losses
in sheep raising. And since it is impossible
to keep sheep ‘together without these pests
developing, everysheep raiser must look sharp
to prevent worms from doing fatal damage.

Where sheep are given good care and proper feed-
ing, the danger of disease is of course greatly reduced. If
they are protected against sudden changes in temperature
and kept free from stomach and intestinal worms, your
losses should amount to very little. No domestic animal
responds more readily to kind treatment, and the watch-
ful shepherd will be amply repaid for the care he exer-
cises in handling his flock. It is always preferable to
feed the flock in the yard, as you can then more readily
detect any indisposition among them. If a sheep fails to
eat, look to the cause and remove it promptly. Do not
try to force the animal to partake of food, unless it has
gone without for several days; then a flaxseed meal or
oatmeal porridge should be given. A sheep that chews
its cud is not very sick. As soon as any member of the
flock shows signs of sickness, it should be separated at
once from the rest of the flock, and especial attention
given to it.

Page Ninety

DISEASES

Distemper

In the early stages of the disease, there is a slight
watery discharge from the nostrils and eyes, a general
depression and loss of appetite. Coughing is seldom no-
ticed unless the bronchial tubes are affected. At the end
of a week, the discharge becomes thicker and the eyes
half closed. Separate the afflicted animals from the
rest of the flock and place ‘‘Sal-Vet’’ where each flock
can run to it freely. It will act as a preventive on the
well ones, and will quickly improve the digestion and
general health of the sick ones. It tones up the entire
system, purifies the blood, makes the bowels active and
puts the animal in the best possible condition for recov-
ery. It is also advisable to spray the pens and feeding
troughs, with a disinfectant such as a strong solution of
carbolic acid.

“T do not see how any stockman can do without ‘Sal-Vet.’
It certainly has made money for me. Last fall my sheep were
caught in a hail storm and became quite sick from exposure;
they coughed a great deal, and were in bad condition generally.
At that time I just happened to be out of ‘Sal-Vet,’ and you
may be sure I missed it greatly. I immediately got another 200
pound barrel, and in a very short time every sheep on the place
was again in fine condition. I have forty lambs and have not
lost a single one. Furthermore, I have not had a sick hog on
the place, although hogs have died all around here.”’

Peter Bally, Wichita, Kans.

“I am well pleased with the results following the use of
‘Sal-Vet.’ Since using it, my sheep have stopped coughing and
show no more symptoms of worms. Furthermore, my ewes
have produced a fine lot of lambs this spring.’’

Smith Hines, Hopkins, Mo.

Page Ninety-one

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Grubs

Sheep, especially those that graze in brush and
woodlands, are in danger of being troubled with grubs.
‘They are caused by the bot or gad fly lighting on the
animal’s nose and crawling up into the nostril and de-
positing its eggs. [he breathing of the sheep draws
them up into the nasal passages between the eyes, and
here the eggs hatch out. The bot fly has been the con-
stant annoyance of the flock masters for centuries and is
mentioned in ancient history. Some authorities claim
that grub in the head does not harm sheep and could not
cause death. It is very evident that the grub in the head
is not necessary or beneficial to animals, as some have
erroneously said. It is not reasonable to suppose that the
sensitive membranes in the sinuses of the head of so frail
an animal, were intended to harbor such vicious, irritating
parasites. The following brief description of the inter-
mediate stage of this fly, during its stay in the host (the
sheep) will settle this question in the mind of the average
breeder or feeder of sheep:

The fly darts to the nose of the sheep and before
the animal can dodge or protect itself, the fly deposits the
larvae, usually in a well developed state, on the nose of
the sheep. The parasites, by the aid of hooks on each
side of its head and the small points encircling the body,
crawl up the nostrils and into the frontal sinuses, attach-
ing themselves to the sensitive membranes, and there,
either by irritation or by absorption, drys or uses up the
natural secretions, causing inflammation or catarrh.
When the larvae is first deposited on the nose of the
sheep, it is about the size of a meat maggot. The per-
iod of infection, depending upon the weather, is from
the first of June to the last of August. When the grub

Page Ninety-two

DISEASES

is mature, it is about the size of a navy bean. The larvae
when deposited and until half grown, is of a creamy
white at the head, gradually shading darker toward the
extremity. At maturity the head is of light color and
the body nearly black. The mature grub has about
twelve segments or shell-like rings, with sharp point pro-
jections encircling its body; these are used in crawling.
In crawling the body elongates, showing flexible tissue
between the segments. In contracting, the lateral part
is brought forward, and the movement is made possible
by the points on the segments.

In the following spring, when the grub becomes ma-
ture and about to form into a pupa stage, it passes out of
the nasal cavity into the natural openings of the head,
and during April or May, they are thrown out to the
ground by the animal sneezing or coughing. When on
the ground, the grub buries itself under litter or surface
vegetation. Here it contracts itself until the shell-like seg-
ments completely envelop it, forming an egg-shape pupa.
In thirty to sixty days, according to the weather, a small
cap piece is removed and the fly emerges, going about
annoying the sheep and doing its part in producing
its kind. The fly has no mouth, therefore, does not
take nourishment; its life is about sixty days. The
grubs in the head of sheep, rarely of themselves cause
death and the sheep seldom show symptoms of the pres-
ence of the grub, until about the time of their migration
in the spring, except when present in numbers sufficient
to fill the cavities, causing inflammation and producing
abscesses and softening the structure surrounding the
brain, enabling the grub to' reach the cerebrum.
In such cases the animal becomes bewildered, roams
about the field without taking food, turns in circles,

Page Ninety-three

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK
raises its head high and suffers severe pain. No doubt
the grub in the head, assisted by any of the various other
parasites with which our American flocks are known to
be troubled, have caused many fatalities. The location of
the grub in the head is about half way from the opening of
the nose and the crown of the head and just back of the
nostril passage, in the sinuses just about the eyes, and in
horned sheep are sometimes in the hollow base of the horn.

No positive cure has ever been found, but some
authorities advise the use of snuff and linseed oil, to be
injected into the nostrils. This causes the afflicted
animal to sneeze and to expel the grub.

Other authorities, however, recommend this opera-
tion: A trephine may be used and a circular disc of bone
cut from over the location of the grubs. ‘This may be
done by cutting a circular flap of skin somewhat larger
than the opening, to be made in the bone, leaving the
skin attached on the upper side. After the bone is re-
moved and the grubs taken out the flap should be re-
placed and held in position by plasters or stitched with
surgeons’ suture. Antiseptics should be used freely in all
such operations.

Prevention of grub, however, is much easier and
more dependable than a cure. By occasionally smearing
a little pine tar on the noses of the sheep they will not
be bothered by flies and danger of grub will be elimi-
nated. | 3

This can also be automatically applied, by smearing
the bottom of the feed trough with pine tar.

Page Ninety-four

DISEASES

Fluke Worms

By grazing in lowlands and in wet places, after
infected animals, Fluke Worms (Liver Rot) may be
contracted by sheep and lambs. These parasites are
small and flat and infect the liver, which organ they
destroy, when found in large num-
bers. Severe attacks are usually
fatal.

SYMPTOMS: Rub the skin
of the sheep backward and forward
at the small of the back, and there
is a crackling feeling, as though
there were water’ underneath.
When taken between the thumb

FLUKE WORMS

: : Tadpole Adult
and fingers, the skin is soft and Ciaed River
flabby. There is a weakness or Flukes

. (About two-thirds natur-
tenderness about the loins, the eyes aj size.)

become jaundiced — there are

diarrhoea and stupor. Often, too, the animal becomes
dropsical, which condition is noticed on the belly and
under the jaws.

Isolate the animals in a high, dry pasture, and feed
them SAL-VET. It will destroy the parasites while still
in the stomach, before they have entered the liver.

The remedy lies in destroying them before their
passage from the stomach. Have a supply of ‘‘Sal-Vet’’
where your sheep may have access to it; they’ll doctor
themselves.

“I wish to testify to the value of ‘Sal-Vet,’ as it saved my
flock of sheep. I had a friend who cared for his flock in the
same way, but omitted to give them access to “Sal-Vet.’’ He
lost nearly every sheep in his flock.’’

J. R. Glendenning, New Martinsville, W. Va.

Page Ninety-five

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Lung Worms

Lung Worms get into the air passages of the lungs
of sheep. The afflicted animal coughs, gaps, rubs its
nose upon the grass, and gives other indications of irrita-
tion of the respiratory organs. “The breathing is labored;
there is a discharge of mucous from the _ nostrils.

e

Lung worms (about twice natural size)

Although the appetite is not impaired in the early
stages, still the animal remains thin, and death usually
follows. Fatalities caused by lung worms, occur usually
during the winter and early spring months.

Sheep and lambs get the eggs or larvae of the lung
worm, with grass, feed or water. The theory is, that in
the stomach, these eggs are rapidly developed, and very
minute parasites enter the circulation, and finally find
lodgment in the air passages of the lungs. When once
there, no remedy taken into the stomach will destroy
them, but the disease is preventable by destroying the

Page Ninety-six

DISEASES

parasite while still in the stomach, before it has entered
the circulation.

Keep SAL-VET constantly before the sheep and
lambs in the pasture and feeding pens. Feed it to the
ewes while in winter quarters, and give the lambs access
to it from the time they go on pasture.

Stomach Worms

If you are familiar with the raising of sheep, you
know the dreaded symptoms showing stomach worm
infection. The animal moves about with laggard step,
drooping ears and dull eyes. There is a loss of weight
—sometimes colic and later diarrhoea. The skin is pale

UO ee

The Twisted Stomach Worm (about twice natural size)

instead of pnk. As stomach worms are found in the
fourth stomach, they interfere with the digestion to such
an extent that the animal practically starves to death.
To get more and better wool and mutton, you must get
rid of the worms.

Page Ninety-seven

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

Infection by these deadly parasites comes from
pastures on which sheep have been grazing for some
time. The infected animals drop the eggs from which
the larvae are developed. These work their way to the
tops of the grass blades; the grazing animals take them,
and the trouble begins.

In the Central States alone, three million lambs
have been killed in a single year, by stomach worms.

The logical plan to prevent pastures becoming
badly infected, is to first rid your ewes of the worms.
Begin while they are in winter quarters; keep up the
fight after they have returned to grass. You can do
much toward rendering them powerless to further infect
your pastures. |

As a preventive, lambs should be given access to
‘Sal-Vet’’ from the time they first go on pasture.

Intestinal Worms (enlarged)

Page Ninety-eight

DISEASES

Most of the prominent breeders successfully keep
their stock worm-free and in the pink of condition by
simply keeping

where the animals may have free access to it, so that
they may doctor themselves. ‘Try this plan yourself.

You will be amply rewarded by the knowledge that
your pastures are clean, and parasitic infection among
your lambs reduced to the minimum, or entirely
eliminated.

“It affords me great pleasure to give this testimonial of the
value of your miraculous cure, ‘Sal-Vet.’ Our sheep became
infested with stomach worms and were dying almost daily.
Learning of the remarkable cures accomplished by ‘Sal-Vet,’ I
decided to try it. Much to my surprise, I have not had the loss
of a single sheep since. ‘Sal-Vet’ does exactly as you claim. It
is a money saver to every stock owner who will use it.’’

John E. Templin, Blanchester, Ohio.

“My sheep are all anxious and always eager for ‘Sal-Vet,’
and it is doing them a lot of good. They were infested with
stomach worms on account of their being kept on the same pas-
ture for three consecutive years. ‘Sal-Vet’ affords a cheap
method of ridding both sheep and pastures of these deadly para-
sites.’’ Thomas Brennan, Garretson, S. D.

“I have fed ‘Sal-Vet’ to my sheep which were infected with
stomach worms, and can say I have lost but a single lamb since
feeding it.’’ G. W. Pfoutz, New Sharon, Ia.

Page Ninety-nine

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

NODULAR DISEASE
How to Diagnose and Prevent

Nodular Disease is caused by parasites which thrive
and do their deadly work in the bowels, liver and con-
necting tissue, of sheep. The parasites are taken up
with feed or water, and burrow into the lining of the
intestines. Small nodules or lumps are formed, the
assimilation of food is checked, and the action of the
bowels retarded.

While the animal may gain weight at first, strength
is soon lost. Later the weight is lost, too, the skin and
wool become dry and hard, the bowels irregular, and, in
severe cases, death follows.

If taken while the parasite is still in the stomach,
and before it has passed into the intestines and imbedded
itself into the membrane, ‘‘Sal-Vet’’ will destroy the
worms and prevent further infection in the flock.

Lambs having constant access to °Sal-Vet’’ from
the time they first go on grass, usually escape infection.

“<Sal-Vet’ worked finely on my sheep; I had one valuable
ram in particular that I expected to lose. He grew very poor
and went down every day, and by the time the ‘Sal-Vet’ arrived,
he was so weak he could not eat. I forced him to take some of
the ‘Sal-Vet.’ He picked up quickly and is now sound and
lively as ever.”’ E. J. Israelson, Vera Cruz, Mo.

“You may ship me another barrel of ‘Sal-Vet,’ as I find that
I have had less loss this summer while using ‘Sal-Vet’ for my
sheep and lambs, than ever before during my ten years’ ex-
perience in breeding sheep.”’ Percy Brown,
Spring Hill, Tenn.

Page One Hundred

DISEASES

Tape Worms

Tape worms are ribbon-like gluttons, which annually
reduce sheep raisers’ profits enormously. It is no unusual
occurrence to lose an entire flock of lambs afflicted with

Tape Worms sometimes attain length
of 15 Feet.

p2ea

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tape worms, by the scouring, which is coincident with
the disease.

Sheep so infected do not fatten, and the growth of
the wool is materially diminished. There may be from
two to twenty-five of these worms in a single animal,
although as many as a hundred have been found in one.

Tape worms thrive in all seasons, and when present,
nearly every sheep in the flock will be affected.

“Our sheep and lambs were badly infested with stomach
worms, and some tape worms. We tried to doctor them with
stock food, turpentine, linseed oil, gasoline and other things, and
lost about fifty lambs while experimenting with the above. We
heard of your ‘Sal-Vet’ and have been feeding it for about two
months. It has been a wonderful help, as we have lost only one
lamb since feeding it. We cannot speak too highly of ‘Sal-Vet.’’’

Gwillim & Son, Medora, III.

Page One Hundred One

SAL-VET SHEEP BOOK

“A few days after feeding ‘Sal-Vet’ some of my lambs be-
gan to pass great fragments of tape worms and continued to do
so for nearly a week, after which they made extraordinary
growth. My colts have done equally well.’’

S. W. Sevits, R. D. No. 2, Danville, II.

“l have been feeding ‘Sal-Vet’ to my sheep and horses and
have noticed from the start that the sheep have passed a large
number of tape worms. Am highly pleased with this result and
know the preparation is all you claim.’’

Abram Bolton, F. D. No. 2, Danville, IIL.

“Please send me another 100 pound keg of ‘Sal-Vet’ as soon
as possible. It is certainly a great worm destroyer. I have used
it for over a year and it has saved lots of my lambs. They be-
gin to eat it when only two and three days old.

Geo. L. Voorhees, Lebanon, N. J.

“Until about two years ago, when I commenced to feed
‘Sal-Vet’ to my sheep, I lost enough in two years from worms, to
pay the duty on my wool for fifty years, if shipped into this
country ; but since I have been using ‘Sal-Vet’ I have never lost
one, and they keep in perfect health.

“The stomach worm is the greatest detriment in the South
to the sheep industry, but ‘Sal-Vet’ is the remedy; there
may be others, but I tried tobacco stems, with no good results.’’

R. L. Wallace, Route No. 1, Knoxville, Tenn.

“We usually figure on a loss of one to three per cent by
death. This year we kept ‘Sal-Vet’ before our sheep all the
time, and have not had a single sick sheep, although we have
fattened for the market during the winter, over a thousand head.’’

J. W. F. Thomas & Son, Delphi, Ind.

“I have not lost a single sheep since I began: feeding ‘Sal-
Vet.’ Last winter, without its use, I lost 25 per cent of my
flock.’’ Chas. E. Wyman,

Pekin, Ind.

Page One Hundred Two

State Agricultural Experiment Stations and
Colleges Endorse

From Ohio State University; College of Agriculture.

“We have used ‘Sal-Vet’ with excellent satisfaction, and
while we have not obtained information as to the absolute effect
on our sheep, they consumed the preparation with results which
appear to us to corroborate your statement, that it is desirable
for discouraging the development of worms, and keeping sheep
in a good condition. ee |

“T believe that ‘Sal-Vet’ will repay the user, in the results
which come from its action in his flock.”

C. S. Plumb, B. Sc., Prof. of Animal Husbandry.

From Oklahoma Experiment Station.

“Please send us another shipment of ‘Sal-Vet.’ We en-
deavor to keep a constant supply of ‘Sal-Vet’ before our sheep,
particularly at this time of the year when there is greatest
danger of lambs and sheep contracting stomach worms and
other parasitic diseases.’’ W. A. Linklater,

Animal Husbandman.

From California College of Agriculture.

“We received the ‘Sal-Vet’ some time ago and are feeding
it to our breeding sheep. It is doing the work in fine shape.”
J. J. Thompson, Dept. Animal Husbandry.

From North Carolina College of Agriculture.

“In my live stock work here in North Carolina I have had
an opportunity to recommend your ‘Sal-Vet’ to a number of
stockmen. Having used it at New Hampshire College last year
and year before, I am in a position to know its great value.
Our cattle have done well ever since we began using ‘Sal-Vet,’
and I am always glad to recommend an article that is as good
as the one you are placing on the market.’’

John C. McNutt, Prof. Dept. Animal Husbandry.

Page One Hundred Three

Additional Experiment Station Endorsements

From Iowa State College.

“We have been using ‘Sal-Vet’ for the past two years; to
tell the truth, we are somewhat surprised at the good results we
have secured with it. Our lambs have been quite free from
serious parasitic trouble, and as the ‘Sal-Vet’ has been fed faith-
fully during the period mentioned, we consider it a vermifuge of
considerable merit. We know that our pastures are infected
with stomach worms, and feel that ‘Sal-Vet’ has been respon-
sible for keeping the ‘losses from this source, down to a mini-
mum.’ John M. Evvard, Experimentalist,

Iowa State College.

From Connecticut Agricultural College.

“We have used ‘Sal-Vet’ with good effect on our sheep.
Our lambs have never done so well as this spring.”’
L. A. Clinton, Director.

From North Carolina Experiment Station.

“We find ‘Sal-Vet’ a very satisfactory worm exterminator,
and are very much pleased with results.’
R. S. Curtis, Animal Husbandman.

From Nashville pene and Normal Institute,
Madison, Tenn.

“After making a number of interesting tests on our sheep,
I am confident that ‘Sal-Vet’ will destroy worms.’
E. A. Sutherland, President.

From South-East Alabama Experiment Station, Abbeville, Ala.

“ ‘Sal-Vet’? has been of great service to us. It has kept our
hogs and pigs free from worms, and furthermore, has demon-
strated that it is a splendid tonic.’’

J. Buhrmas Espy, Agriculturist.

From Texas Agricultural Experiment Station.

“We are using ‘Sal-Vet’ with satisfactory results.’’
C. N. Alvord,
Professor of Agriculture.

Page One Hundred Four

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