be Ce) xo 3 < GPO 16—-47372-2 mOorRSE TRAINING, THE HISTORY OF TWENTY YEARS’ EXPERI- ENCE IN TRAINING HORSES AND BREAK- ING COLTS; ALSO HINTS ON BREAKING STEERS,MANY VALUABLE RECIPES, &C., i &C., &C., &C. ae By FRANK DONALD. ee > BERLIN, WIS.: TERRY & ARNOLD, PRINYVERS. 1870 aes o EXPLANATION. \ \\ Rein; Pl—Pulley Line; G—Quard. N Ra i » is. INTRODUCTION. Many learned and elaborate works have been written upon horses, their breaking, driving and general man- agement; and also on their diseases and cures. Some parts of these many works are very good, while others are of no benefit whatever to the practitioner, or to those who do not make it a business to break horses, but yet break their own. On account of the great supply of horse-doctoring books before the public, I have made it no point to write anything on the diseases and cures of horses, although I have inserted a few recipes such as I can recommend, and know to be good, by dai- ly use of them. But I wish to introduce to the people, and especially the farmers, a work descriptive of anew system of colt breaking and horse taming; a work which will bea benefit alike to the learned and unlearned, and one which has cost me much time and labor for the last twenty years; and I trust I have brought to light a system as near perfect, in a practical point of view, for handling colts and horses with ease and safety, as any yet offered to horse owners. I have castrated and broke horses and colts in almost every county in this State,and if my cmployers, and friends tell me the truth, I have always given entire satis- faction, and they acknowledge that my system INTRODUCTION. is the system by which to break and train colts. My castrating like my training, always speaks for itself. Ina place where I can get one job I can always get more another season. Hoping my new system will meet the approbation of farmers and horse raisers, to such I cheerfully dedicate and freely recommend my little book ; and hoping every peruser of it who has neyer given me the benefit of a trial, will do so at their earliest convenience and prove for themselves that 1am no humbug. FRANK DONALD. BERLIN, Wis. SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. In this age of progression and improvement, why do men and boys persist in followiig that common and harsh method of handling colts? It is because they do not know nor scem to care to learna better one. There area great varicty of methods practiced by different men,and professed followers of Rarey, yet few, if any, are ever successful in anything except teaching others what they themselves can not do. I claim to have found the true seerct of horse training. After twenty years of practical experience, haviag bandled uearly three thousand horses, | have learned that all the systems which have been taught by traveling trainers who have infested the country for the past few years, have been failures so far as they have pretended to learn all per- sons to be horse tamers, and that they themselves have failed in bringing a really unmanagable horse or colt to a perfect state of subjection or usefulness. There are but few persons who have the nerve to go into a small enclosure with a wild or vicious colt. It is much easi- er to have the animal brought to them to a tent or barn than to catch it and lead it there, which but few of our professional horse tamers ever attempt to do. J. S. Rarey has given the easiest method of getting a colt in- to an enclosure, in bis book-pamphlet on “ Horse Tam- ing,” pages 7-8; few, however, have the patience to 8 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. catch and halter it when there. In going near an un- tamed colt to halter it, you are in danger of being in- jured in various ways. In the first place, your colt has never been conquered and will make every endeavor to get away, or inits fright show fight, and drive you from the yard or barn as the case may be. If you are fortunate enough to get a halter on the beast you may not beable to hold it. If it starts from you the ten- dency is for it to rear and fall over backwards. If you try to pull it along, it will brace back and pull you zlong with it. If you attempt to take up its foot it will strike or kick, and you having no means of defease are in danger of being hurt. You have no way of sub- duiag the colt without running a great visk of injury being done both to yourself and the colt. . All trainers say you must throw the colt to subdue it and they’ t ach yarious ways to do this, but do not tell how the person who has the work of catching, subduing and educating can do it without danger. No w: ay has been taught to make the colt follow you without the use of a w hip or by jerking the under jaw with a small cord—methods very harsh and cruel and which have spoiled many good horses ; no way taught of compelling baulky horses to go or of curing them of that most vexatious habit ; no way to prevent a horse from pulling at the halter or br idle or to make it stand when left alone in the field, or to prevent it from kicking the horse he stands beside, or from carrying its head to one side when in the harness, or to stand quiet while being shod, or to keep it from kicking while at work in the harness. The method I wish to introduce to the public.is new and safe. It does away with the old, brutal style of jerking the animal’s mouth by a cord until the blood runs, or of throwing it down, which treatment it does not understand and can not be made to understand. If you wanted your child to perform some service with which he was unacquainted, because he did not do it immediately at your word of command, you would ~— SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING, g not use harsh and unseemly means to make him do it, but you would show kim how or give him such instruc- tions as would enable kim to fully understand what you require. I think it no more than fair that we should vive the dumb beasts an equally good chance to learn what you want them to do. When this is done we shall have fewer maimed horses, an@ horses with brok- en legs, from cruel punishment inflicted for disobedi- ence induced by the horse not comprebending what is wanted of him. The horse is a very obedicnt animal if by proper treatment it is made to understand what is wanted of it. It is a good idea to make the horse un- derstand that you mean what you say, and must be obeyed. Better to take half an hour to make your horse anderstand a command than to let him go without un- derstanding it. The instinct of the horse is what rea- son isto man. We reason from eause and effect, and it is much the same with the horse. If we say “whoa,” to the horse and have the power to make him stop and stand still, he will soon learn that “whoa,” means stop, and stand still. If you hurt him in stoppirg it will make him out of temper and he will not obey you readily or with good grace. A horse will also soon learn when you are out of temper by the sound of your voice, How does he learn this? almost invariably in this way: You speak quicker and in a higher key at the same time hurting him either with the “whip or by severely jerking the ‘pits, and whenever he hears that peculiar tone of voice he is frightened for he thinks he will be hurt, and he is then entirely incapable of understand- ing what you wait. At all times keep your temper, and practice patience and perseverance. My experi- ence teaches me that no colt is properly broke unless he is thoroughly conquered and not hurt in so doing. If you hurt him in subduing, he hates you ; if you ca- ress him, when he gives up he will think you are his friend still. If you lasso a colt by the neck, which is very often done, it will bea long time before he will 10 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. have confidence in youas lassoing produces the most unpleasant feeliz gs imaginable. Te eon hurt his mouth he will be afraid to have it touched, and may prove very troublesome about managing. TO GET A COLT INTO A BARN. Thereare but few colts but what caa be induced to go intothe barn yard, but this is scarcely the place to train a colt unlessit is very small. Ihave always found the barn floor the most suitable and convenient place to handle a colt, but to get him into the barn is generally a task of no small magnitude, that is, without seriously alarming and worrying him. There are several means which can be successfully uSed, such as driving him into the barn in company with one or more old horses or gently driving him in alone by slowly working toward the barn door, letting him take his time to get familiar with everything that may appzar suspicious or ‘alarm- ing to him. Make no movement on your part to alarm him, by throwing up the arms, runni:g to head him off, or speaking sharply. If he should run by you once do not make matters worse by trying to stop him, but let him go, and work around him again. It is well known that the horse is natur. lly a timid aaimal, aud tr yiag to force him into the barn will excite his fears and mike him think it necessary to escape at all hazards tor the safety of his life. In one instance I had a colt which no amount of coaxing or driving could get into the barn ; so I had both doors thrown wide open, and placed a man at the opposite door out of sight of the colt. The colt seeing achance to get away from me made a dash to go “through the barn, but as soon as he was inside we suddenly closed both doors and we had our colt. FIRST PROCESS OF BREAKING COLTS. Let the barn be clear from all obstructions, After the colt is in the barn let him alone a few moments, to allow him to examine the floor and all unfamiliar ob- jects ; then go in with a bow whip or switch aud walk SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 1 around a few mements after the colt, or until he be- comes quict. Now take a half-inch rope about thirty feet long, tie a ring in the end of it for the rope to run through to form a noose. * Place the noose in the cor- ner of the barn far enough back for the colt to stand his let fore soot inside it. By driving him around a few times he can be made to step inside it. If possible, ap- proach within ten or fifteen feet of the colt and jerk the rope so as to catch the loop around his leg below the knee. Ashe feels therrope tighten he will jump and probably rear and kick. Do ne st try to hold any tight- oe thai to keep the rope froin slipping until the colt finds that he can not get away from it.. Keep as near be- hind him as possible, : as he can not strain himself in the least when you are pulling from behind, or in front. You need not speak until the colt gives ap, for the less noise the better As soon, after the colt is caught, as he will stand still enough for you to move back and forth, step around behind him and draw the aa around his hind legs above the gambrels and tighten it. If he attempts to jump, speak gently to him sain ““whoa,”’ and hold him, as you lave the power to do so. Now start him forward and when he has taken a few steps say, “whoa,” and pull the rope up enough so that he can not takea step. When he finds he can not go make him step one hind foot over the rope keeping it “still around the hind leg on the same side as the fore leg to which the rope is attatched. Walk around toward his head very quictly and keeping the rope tight above the gam- brel. Caress him gently, rub him on the fore shoulder and down the fore leg, along the side,and down the hizd leg. Hecan not kick or str rke unless he j jumps. Whien you have him sufficiently uscd to your movements about him, put on the “guard.” I do not think a horse is properly broke w ithout the use of this. The guard is a strap one inch and «a half in width with a ring in it, the strap being long enough to go around the “horse’s 5 leg. Buckle onearound the foreleg above the knee, and 12 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. one on the hind leg below the gambrel. Passa three quarter rope or strap through the ring on the fore leg from the front side and fasten it to the strap on the hind leg. The rope should be about fourteen feet long. Turn the rope around from the under side soas to form a kink in the rope behind the ring onthe fore leg and: keep a firm hold on the end ofthe rope. Thus you “have the colt completely in your power. As he can not get away you can compel him to stand as you please. ‘He ean neither go ahead, back, nor sideways. If you draw the rope tight it draws the hind foot up to the knee and learns him to stand to be shod without leaui.g upon the smith as some horses do. You can now take your small rope off and put the noose overthe colt’s neck, and put small strap around the under jaw under the tongue and through the ringon the rope. Place the top of the rope back of the crest of the neck. You can handle his head now at will, and doit very gently. While you have this guard on you can accustom him to the sight of buffalo robes, blankets, ete., by briiging them be- fore him, laying them on his back, and otherwise show- ing him they will not harm him. If you wish to break him to ride, jump upon his back, slide off on his gam- brels, ete., until he submits to be handled all over and stands still. Now put the guard on the off hind leg, fasten the small rope to the nigh fore leg below the knee, One end is already on the neck and jaw, the guard still remaining en, but long enough to allow the colt to take a natural step. Pull lightly on the rope that runs to his jaw, and givea smart pull on the fore leg which will compel the colt to step ahead. You have not the power to pull the colt along by the head, but you have by the leg by pulling a little sideways. A severe pull on the head will most generally cause the colt to rear, but a light pull on the head at the time of pulling forward the foot, will establish the fact with the colt that it would be useless for him to pull ona bri- dle or halter. When you pull the colt toward you say, SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 13 “Come here,” and he will soon learn that those words mean for him to come to you. When he comes close up, caress him, with a rub on the head, beneath the eyes, etc. If you wish your horse to follow the crack of the whip, crack a whip as you pull him toward you until he will come at that sound alone. Let the colt rest often or he will become tired and sullen. It might be well to say here that where the colt has been used to running into the stable, sheds, or other out- buildings, drive several in at onceand then separate the one you wish to catch from the others. Make him step into the noose before mentioned and hold him until the others can be driven out. If you wish to take him to a.other stable or more convenient place before com- mencing work, puta halter on him, and lead another horse, harnessed, sideways to the door on the outside, which will prevent the colt from making his escape. Hitch the rope on the colt’s leg to the hame-ring of the harness on the other horse aad then work the colt along toward the horse at the door, When near enough tie the halter-stale also in the hame-ring leaving the halter a little the longest so as not to pull the colt’s head first. Back up the horse and swing him around, thus pulling the colt from the stable. Keep on the opposite side of the horse from the colt so as not to frighten him and you can soon lead him to a safe place for treatment. Care must be taken in handling colts in a low stable to prevent them from injuring their heads by rearing while you are pulling on the rope. TO LEARN THE COLT TO STAND. Place the colt in a narrow stall, containing a strong hitching ring placed three or four feet above the floor, Puta good halter on the colt—one you can depend upon Run the halter-stale through the ring from the back side and down to a strap buckled to the nigh fore leg above the knee, leaving tMe stale long enough to allow the colt to stand back “three feet, and the guard on the 14 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. off legs rather short, and- then let him pull all he can. He can not hurt his head by pulling as the act lifts o.e of his main braces from the floor. ‘The guard prevents him from pawing or rearing. Some colts will paw or rear when left alone, or will kick the stall, which will be prevented by putting the guard on both sides alike. If necessity compels you to stand horses together that are sharply shod, put a guard on each horse on the in- side and it will save you uw inaimed horse. If you wish to leave your horses in the field, or wish to bave them stand without being hitched, put the guard on the out- side legs very short and they can not run. Of course they will require some watehir ig at first. TO LEARN A COLT TO REIN, This is the most important part of a colt’s education. No colt is pleasant to ride or drive unless he follows the rein perfectly. There are but few persons who have not some. little experience in driving horses, and they know how their tempers have been tried when trying to shun obstructions, They rein one side and the horse’s head comes around, while the position of the body is unchanged. Prompt obedience to the rein should be taught the colt from the begianing. Ithink I can safe- ly say that there is not one man in a thousand who un- derstands how to learn a colt to rein ‘properly. The method commonly practiced is to pass the rein through the turrets on the back-pad and to the bit, and then try to turn the colt by pulling one rein or the other, which generally gives the impression that you want him to back, as it pulls the bit into his mouth. It also frets the horse and makes his mouth sore. My method of teaching a colt to rein is to first show him how. Use a good leather bit with large cheek pieces which will not draw through the mouth. Fasten the rein into the ring of the bit, and around the gore leg below the knee on | the same side. Take the line running to the bit with one hand, and the one running to the leg with the oth- SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 15 er. Stand in front and to one side, say to him, “Come around,” and pull on each strap; lift the leg up and pull it sideways, pulling lightly on the rein so he will not turn his head sideways as you make him come around, As you turn him keep stepping further back until you cau turn him by pulling the rein against his flank. The pull on the bit should amount to a very lightjerk. After the colt will turn one way by mercly pulling with your thumb a:d finger, place the rein on the other leg and learn him to furn the other way also, Pulling the colt sideways by the leg shows diim how to lft up his fect to step around, which can not be done in any other way. When your colt turns readily, take the rein from the leg and fastea it to the other side of the bit. Now stand on the near side at the shoulder; throw the off rein over the hips and above the gambrels with the right hand, keepiog a firm hold on the bit with the left hand, to kcep him from jumping ahead when you pull on the off rein, as it draws arou.d the flank. You should now turn the head from you by pulling witha firm hand o. the off rein. Keep turning him around until he steps off squarely from you. Now change sides and proceed as before. When the colt learns to step sideways without turning his head, step away from him and teil him to go. If he does not move pull him short toone side as he steps, giving him the rein loose. Ifhe tries to get away turn his head toward you, and as he gets part way round you can stop him short by pulling the rein furtherest from you around his gambrels, hold- ing the other rein tight. By keeping the reins below the hips when driving him around you can prevent him from turning his head around toward you, as he will when the reins run through the turrets. [If you wish to turn him to the left, step to the right side and pull quickly with the left rein it being down as low as the flank. By following these directions you can learn a colt to step squarely and promptly to one side. When you pull on the rein, as it learns him to step his fore 16 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. feet to one side, and his hind feet to the other, you can easily turn your horse around on a space four feet square. TO HITCH UP A COLT. Here is the secret of having a quiet and trusty horse, Very often we hear men say, “ My colt needs no break- ing. The boys can easily hitch him up. ~1t is very much like placing a person upon a locomotive who is totally nnacqu: ainted with it ,ornevyersaw one. He may set it in motion but that is as far as his ability extends; he is incapable and pcewerless to run it. A horse is never thoroughly broke or entirely safe until he is con- quered and learned what you want of him. The first impression a colt gets lasts the longest. He should never be hitched up with another horse until he has been driven alone with the reins, and then placed in a heavy pair of shafts with one end to drag upon the ground, which will prevent him from backing and learn him the use of the thills at the same time. The guard should be put on when the colt is first placed in the shafts, as it will prevent him from running away or kicking, until he gets accustomed to the harness, shafts and other things about him ; also, when hitched to any thing which frightens him, it prevents his rearing or kicking. A horse kic ks, rears and frets more from fear in the first place, and thenceforth from habit. A horse will soon learn to go quiet by wearing the guard short at first, and longer when you wish him to go faster. I will give the reason why some horses baulk and kick, and some fret. First, you make your horse fret by compelling or allowing ‘him to go fast when first hiteh- ed up. Often we hear the remark, “When you get t the colt started, let him go, or he will baulk.” You get your colt started the best you can and then have to use the whip to keep him moving. The whip frightens the colt and he starts into a trot or run which causes the wagon to rattle, or whatever vehicle he may be hitched SCIENCK OF HORSE TRAINING. Ay to,and ke is frightened stil] more; he commences to kick, or fret, and soon your colt is reduced in value or spoiled entirely, for a fretting, kicking horse is useless to every onc, except, perhaps, the jockey. With such manner of treatme:t almost any colt will learn to be- come vicious, and it is almost certain to make baulky horses, because you haye been used to starting them quick and at a rapid pace, and when hitched before a load and find they can not start as usual, fly back and refuse togo. Soon you kaye some thing more obstinate to deal with than a wild colt—a baulky one. TO MAKE A HORSE GO. I think there is no record of anyone using anything to make acolt go. The Spanish halter, cords, whips, or anything which can be put upon a horse's head or neck may be used, but they will not compel him to move. Some jerk the colt along by the under jaw, but he only moves because it is extreme torture, nor does it learn a colt what is wanted of bim. . My experience on horses for the past twenty years bas been the means of my bringing out a system to be used by all in breaking colts. Some of the Spanish ranche mea know the pow- er they have over a horse when they can lasso bim by the fore leg—with what ease they can hold the most powerful wild horse. Most severely has my patience been tried, when I have attempted to lead a colt across a bridge, or into a barn, or tried to lead him white rid- ing another horse. I can obviate all these difficulties simply by a means I have of compelling a horse to go. If you wish to ride a horse and lead a colt, buckle a strap around the fore leg of the colt above the knee; hitch a rope or strap to it, and the other end around the horse’s neck, leaving the loop as large as the collar should be. Have the strap between the horses long enough for the colt to travel when he comes up even with the horse. Fasten a strap to the colt’s bit and to the girt of your herse, so he can not get too far ahead. Take your horse by the head and turn him around a few times until the 18 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. colt finds he has to step. Then mount your horse and swing around towards the colt, and then start him off, and you will have no further trouble. When you first hitch a colt to a loaded wagon, fasten the strap from his leg to the breast-ring of the other horse, which should be a gentle, well brokenone. Start your team by turning from the colt; start the load bya stay chain on the broken horse’s end of the evener. As soon as the colt has taken a few steps, say ‘““ Whoa,” stopping him. Ca- ress him and let him have time to think, as it were. Start him by a word given to the other horse, and do not frighten him bya display of the whip but keep that still. Walk him along as gently as possible, but if he begins to prance, or plunge, or exhibit any signs of fear, stop him instantly and let him know that he must go quiet. The lead-strap on his leg will compel him to go if he should hang back or refuse to step, and willalso prevent him from swinging away from his mate. When you have your team started, get into the wagon and drive about as you please. The horse will always be able to draw the colt along if he attempts to stop, for he can not brace back enough to stop the horse, and soon he will learn that it is useless to make any such attempts. If he shows any signs of kicking put the guard upon his outside legs and he will soon give that up, too. The guard will also learn him to stand when stopped. Care should be taken to uncheck the colt when you stop him so that he may rest easy. CAUTION. I would say here that in hitching up a team which is uneasy and will not stand still, fasten the neck-yoke to the pole of the wagon, or sleigh, with a strong strap so they can not start ahead after you have hitched one tug, letting the tongue fall and frightening themselves. While hitching a colt onto a wagon, he will very often swing around away from the pole. Insucha case I fast- en a strap into the end of the tug. Standing on the op- posite side, raise the tug above the gambrel and pull SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. 19 him toward the pole, and say, “Stand in,” as you pull him in. Hitch the outside tug first, so he can not swing out while you are hitching the remaining tug. TO LEARN A COLT TO BACK is a very easy matter if you know how to doit. But very few horses will back without the aid of the lines, No one can learn a horse to back by jerking on the bits. A very common way to learna colt to back is to get him ona sidehill and jerk the bits, letting the load pull him back, Some say that you must press the handagainst the front part of the arm, but this is useless, as it simply hurts the colt and does not show him what is re- quired, I never spend more than twenty minutes, on an average, in learning a colt to back. With only the pres- sure of my finger on the bit, or rein, I can make any horse back, which I never saw any one else do. Ido not wish it understood that other men can not break a colt as well as myself, for we have a great many gocd horsemen in the country, who will teach a horse almost any thing desired, but I wish the public to understand that my treatment does not hurt a colt, and he will learn what is wanted of him in one quarter of the time it will take him to learn the same by the treatment he will receive from other men who have written about, or taught in public how to train colts, or drive horses. To show a colt how to back, and to compel him to do so, place a strap, or rope, around the front pastern, hav- ing it long enough to enable you to stand behind the colt. Take the lines in one hand, and with the other grasp the rope. Pull his foot back under him which will cause him to take a step backward, as it throws him off his balance, and he can not step forward. As he begins to move backward pull lightly on the reins, Make him step a few steps backward, and then start him ahead as far as he went back. Tell him to back, calling his name, and if he does not step back readily, pull his foot back with a strong pull. Keep him at 20 SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING. this until he backs at the word. It is better to have a well broken horse with him when learning to back be- fore a wagon. Care should be taken when your coit is learning to back, that he does not back too far, nor tou fast. A colt should not move a distance exceeding his own length at the word “ Back.” If he backs too fast, touch him with the whip, or let your other horse stop him, if hitched before a wagon. I have known men to spend hours trying to back a sullen colt out of a narrow stall. They would coax, jerk with a cord attached to the under jaw, whip over the head and shoulders, and try to push him out by main force, but all to no pur- pose ; they could not compel him to back out. If a boy ten years old should put a strap on his fore Jeg he could pull him out, by drawing the strap across the edge of the stat] for a purchase. TO LEARN A COLT-TO GO STEADY, he should be learned to walk witb a loose rein, which is a difficult thing to do with a high spirited animal. But there is no horse in existence that can not be learn- ed to do this with proper treatment. I once found a horse that would prance from morning till night, both before a loaded and an empty wagon and he could not be induced to sober down to a_ walk, al- though frequently covered with sweat and foam. I tried my method, and learned him to walk in less than a half day. I place the guard on, one end running back to the carriage. When the horse starts to trot, or prance, 1 speak to him, saying, ‘““Whaa,” and draw him up so he can not take a prancing step. If he gets very nerv- ous I pull on the guard and stop him until he gets qui- et. Start him gently ; if he goes quiet, with the rein loose, I stop and caress him. Let him know that it is what you want of him. After he gives up prancing, when you say ** Whaa,” unkitch him and let him rest, as some horses fret only when they are tired. One import. ant thing you should learn isthe difference between “Whoa,” and * Whaa.” The former means to‘stop and SCIENCE OF HORSE TRAINING 21 stand; the latter, to go steadily. Some men say “ Wh-o-0-0-0” for the latter r, and “ Whoa,” when they desire the horse to stop, not making difference enough between the two words to make it perceptible to the colt, and then because he does not re adily obey he is severely dealt with. Ido not believe in the frequent use of the whip, yet a colts should not be handled alike. press under the upper lip, and cord one arm. FOR BURNS. Apply the white of an egg. CERTAIN CURE FOR HEADACHE. To be applied as any other lotion. Opodeldoc, spir- its of wine, and salmoniac, in equal parts. CHOLERA MORBUS. Take a chicken just killed and boil in three quarts of water, and drink freely of the broth. POULTICE FOR A FESTER. Boil bread in strong beer and poultice with it. FOR COUGHS. A tablespoontful of molasses, two teaspoonsful castor oil, one teaspoonful of paregoric. Dose, half a tea- spoonful. TO RESTORE GREY HAIR. Lac sulphur one drachm, sugar of lead half drachm, rose water four oz. Mix. CURE FOR INFLAMATORY RHEUMATISM. Half oz. pulverized saltpetre put into a half pint of sweet oil. Bath the parts affected. LIQUID GLUE. Gum arabic two oz., boiling water one pint; dissolve and add of spirits ten oz. IN DEX. PAGE Introduction. eto To Get a Colt into a Barn, 10 First Process of Breaking Colts, 10 To Learn the Colt to Stand, 13 To Learn a Colt to Rein, 14 To Hitch up a Colt, 16 To Make a Horse Go, we To Learn a Colt to Back, 19 To Learn a Colt to Go Steady, 20 To Prevent a Horse From Carrying his Head to One Side, 21 To Bridle a Colt, 23 To Work an Old, Baulky Horse, 24 To Drive a Kicking Horse, 24 Shying Horses, 24 To Saddle a Colt, 25 To Shoe a Kicking Horse, 27 The Habit of Biting, 27 To Throw a Horse, 28 Remarks on Castrating, 30 Hints on Breaking Steers, 32 Practical Recipes, 35 os ae ea” §