a a DINGEE-MACGREGOR J} Glass Gop iohtN__ COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: ut on | av e gy abe ae Viren oe 4h ‘ ue eta i & Dra ah f yi h 7 a id NOI 5 aay - ae Ri er " anaes ras * ae Se Nia i 7 7 ay oe ti a 4 : yi eon ee ca ; at , ia ee e a a ne F as ia i: i p 4 Tk “acm ND o3 eon i" Se ieee al ie oe Tk pas a . me Ai yi re _s Hy : n eet) a8 " z Dat ie ae : \ A ‘ Le vat ~ AEN, ca i ve he neta \, i a ; 2 , ‘ ae ee ie i ah re i= e i aren ; us Meas Ni _ ith i mais re tee hs ba ry a %) are Wig ue . ans : io aan, Lat fier ei i” Brave ate Y Dis i oe ' < a als Te ee Naa a eas eens Yi ek ain ru Pe se Aaa, is iia ; eee i fen as a ed iY my " at on ao mm f i , Mi re. ane i won +i Y ay ; he Sa Dae ao at tats i, i Let by a) : ie 7 ae . ia tae \* Pas Vig We ae ie 7 ie if oad ae ll ale af nae ‘. q + ; i : ae , ‘a Wik a, - : : ‘ : my af i Beh , ms sig! - ANS a, ae vee ; , 7 a ee : Civsige i, owas Ree Fey Wa. ; j a ' : : D 7 ive ‘a ee yk ant eee Roy) een an an : ro oe me Lys? ee i, eat ne A, hi ei : hn ia ‘om von oul ae an, a ‘a Foi aio fa sv a ar fi € Nw t ture 7 nh ae, fs i ; mt : Pm recat 1m 1 toe Seas ; Dee Wy im : A : i Wl reg Pe i ae hy CheLi, OMe OM LU CC Oe RRL cs LU ie Oar Sar: a ery ah J ‘v evs : Me ge te) M Me A SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Dingee~MacGregor FIFTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED Published by J. I. CASE THRESHING MACHINE CO. RACINE, WIS. 1997, INCORPGRATED | | Copyrighted by R. T. ROBINSON | 1899 onreseneee rr Dessataneenr Aer teA eT ME LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Conies Reseed JUN 21 lvug opyrignt Lath Si, 189? : ee, NO, 7.3.3 5 COPY By ahs of PREFACE. HE object of this book is to enable the owners and the operators of “Case’’ Threshing Ma- chinery to become familiar with the construc- tion and operation of their engines and ma- chines. The material has been gathered, not only from the author’s personal experience, but also from notes taken during visits to the outfits of a large number of the best and most successful threshermen in various localities. The’ aim has been to avoid theorizing and to make only such statements as have been demonstrated practical, by actual field experience. The fact is appreciated that it is impossibie to lay down specific rules for operating threshing machinery, under the ever varying conditions of grain, straw and weather, but it is hoped that the suggestions herein embodied will enable a man of ordinary intelligence to operate his machine success- fully, and to be, to a certain extent, an expert himself. It is the intention to continue revising it from time to time, and with this aim in view, suggestions and criticisms will be welcomed from threshermen, wherever located, to whom this little volume is respectfully dedicated. Chapter oe CONTENTS. For Index, see page 223. PART 1. ENGINES. Page Fitting Up and Starting a New Enngine...... 4 Mae. MeGSd. NWVaIber <2 sie ornate staal ote eyes lave hetions 13 Firing with ‘Various Muelsi ss. 3). 550 eee 29 Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings.... 35 Handling the Wngine. ¢ .< 2... + Gl arias Genie then ee 47 The Hngine Propere sey oe ss. bale ee 58 The: Valve) GOA? o0 so ares Re) Vee eo lente 69 The Boilers sees 0s be ec diwiaets eee ue See en ne eee Si The Traction: Gearime > ¢cusha « os: see lene sere renee 95 Water Banks) .'3'5 eb sede 3 e0aceie @ lel bag treet omemele 103 HLOPse “POWEES: | 4.s3.00 6 Se als ane aw 2 eee 107 PART Il SEPARATORS, Page Fitting Up and Starting a New Separator....121 Setting’ the. Separator neh © io) 2) m = mm m = - p SN Om Op Or 0-2 OF On Ons 210-0 OOF 0. CaO x0@ 3ul3 O-:0.20' 00-0 0-0 920 © Gfar0Ho O20: 30750= O 092386 0 [55690 2 0:00 O=-0: 20 0-0" .0=-0-0 anid 3181SNJ — Heat 69L NODVM a yp! SES Lend ONINSSO YOO 3uIg Fi NWA SDN Es BEAN BO 912 HES RR 85 valve, (to prevent the pressure from reaching a dangerous height), and a “blow-off” valve, (for draining the boiler). A boiler is usually fitted also with a whistle for signaling, 4 } and a blower for forcing the draft. The water feeders, water elass and gage cocks have been treated under the “Feed Water” im Chapter MH. The Steam Gage. The steam gage indicates the steam pressure in the boiler in pounds per square inch. The cut shows the interior of the gage used on Case engines. The curved tube or Bourdon spring has an oval cross section, and when exposed to pressure be 27), NTERIOR OF GAGE. from the inside), tends: to’ straight en, as a hose will do when under water pressure. The free end of the Bourdon tube is connected to the pointer by means of a segment lever and pinion so that the pointer, which is on the same shaft as the pinion, revolves, indicating on the dial the pressure on the inside of the tube, which is the same as that in the boiler. In order to prevent the temper of the tube from being injured by hot steam, a siphon, which con- denses the steam and keeps the tube filled with water, is placed between the gage and the boiler. The sectional view of the siphon shows a_ loose “cap! over, ,the s(pipe, which extends into the globe chamber; this deflects the 86 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. SECTION Ni Zz EGS ss ge ggg LE | effectually prevents any \ LiiZ2 SE? NY So NY YS i entering steam, to the bottom, where \ it condenses in the chamber, and thus live steam from reaching the spring of the gage. The cap. over the pipe) falls when the pressure is removed, making a siphon, which is self-emptying, and thus all danger of bursting by frost is over- come. The cock should always be left open. The Pop Safety Valve. valve opens when the pressure reaches The safety a certain point, allowing the excess steam to escape and closes when the pressure has been he Sy valves are usually set at the reduced a few pounds. factory to blow off at. one AlN hundred and thirty pounds. If a change of pressure be de- Ny sired, unscrew the jam nut at the top and apply the” key, provided for this purpose, to i = y the pressure screw. For more \\ WN i pressure, screw down; for Z less, unscrew. After having FIG. 29. SECTIONAL VIEW OF obtained the desired pressure, POP VALVE. screw the jam nut down tight THE BOILER. 87 on the pressure screw. To regulate the opening and closing action of the valve, take the pointed end of a file and apply it to the teeth of the regulator. If the valve closes with too much loss of boiler pressure, move the regulator to the right. This can be done when the valve is at the point of blowing off. The Blower. The blower consists simply of a pipe leading from the boiler to a nozzle in the smoke-stack. In the pipe is a valve for shutting off the steam. On traction engines, a rod is fitted to this valve, allowing it to be oper- ated from the platform. The blower is intended for use only in raising steam, when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, its exhaust 1s discharged into the smoke-stack, creating what is known as “forced” draft, as distinguished from “natural’’ draft, which is due only to the height of the chimney. When an engine has been running and is temporarily shut down the blower should not be used unless the entire grate surface is covered with burning fuel. If the blower be used soon after shutting down and the grates are not entirely covered with burning fuel, cold air will pass through the dead places in the grates direct to the tubes, cooling them suddenly and rendering them liable to leak. Foaming. When a boiler is “foaming,” the water in the glass appears roily and the level changes rapidly, the glass appearing full one moment and nearly empty the next. Dirty water is usually the cause of foaming, alkali, or soap in any quantities being especially bad. No one should be allowed 88 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING: to wash in the tank, as even a small quantity of soap is liable to cause trouble. On account of the soap used in manufac- ture, new boilers are liable to foam until they are washed out two or three times. It is difficult to tell exactly how much water there is in a foaming boiler, but it is probable that some of it is being drawn over with the steam, and therefore, the pump should feed more than the usual amount. Do not run too long with a foaming boiler, but close the throttle occasionally to see how full the boiler is when the water settles. The remedy for foaming is to keep the boiler clean and to use clean water. Foaming often causes priming. Foaming and priming are more apt to occur with low than with high steam pressure. Priming. When water is drawn over into the cylinder with the steam, the engine is said to “prime.” A priming engine appears to be working very hard, exhausting heav- ily, throwing water from the stack and often making a loud knocking or pounding noise in the cylinder. Priming may be caused’by: i. Yoo much water in the boiler. »2)/) ee low steam pressure. 3. Engine working hard with the front of the boiler low. 4. Boiler working beyond its capacity. 5. Foaming. 6. Piston rings or valve leaking. 7. Valve improperly set. In case the engine should begin to prime, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the throttle partially closed, so that the engine runs quite slowly, until dry steam comes from the cylinder cocks. Priming is liable to knock out a cylinder head, break the piston head, or do other serious THE BOILER. 89 damage to the engine. It always washes the oil from the cylinder and valve, thereby causing the latter to squeak. The lubricator or oil pump should be allowed to feed quite freely after priming, or serious injury to the valve-gear may result Painting the Boiler. The greater part of the boiler can be kept black and looking well by rubbing with oily waste or rags. The front end of the boiler, around the smoke-box, and the smoke-stack require painting from time to time to prevent them from becoming rusty and unsightly. For this, asphaltum or boiled linseed oil mixed with a little lamp black, is suitable. The entire boiler may also be painted with either of these when necessary. Cleaning the Boiler. No rule can be given as to the fre- quency with which a boiler should be washed out. In some localities it is necessary to clean it twice a week, while in others, where the water is almost perfectly clean and pure, once in six weeks is sufficient. In emptying the boiler pre- paratory to cleaning, be sure that all of the fire is out, and that the steam pressure is below ten pounds before opening the blow-off valve. This is necessary, in order to prevent the mud from becoming baked on the tubes and sheets. See that the fire door, smoke-box door and drafts are all closed to pre- vent the boiler from cooling too quickly. To clean the boiler, remove the plugs or hand-hole plates in the water-leg and also the one at the bottom of the front tube-sheet. Wash the boiler thoroughly with a hose, using as much pressure as possible. Most of the sediment will be found around the “water-leg’”’ and along the bottom of the barrel. gO SCIENCE OF (SUCCESSFUL, THRESHING: Packing Hand Hole Plates. After the boiler has been cleaned, the hand-holes must be re-packed, for it seldom hap- pens that a gasket can be used the second time. Gaskets, for re-packing, may be purchased, cut ready for use, or they may be cut from sheet rubber packing by the engineer. Other substances, such as sheet asbestos, card-board, straw-board, or rubber belting are sometimes used, but the most satis- factory material for this purpose is two-ply sheet rubber, which is about one-eighth of an inch thick. The gasket should be cut so as to fit closely around the flange on the plate, and should lie flat. The gasket for the bolt head may be made from the piece cut from the center of the larger gasket. Before the hand-hole plate is replaced, the nut should be oiled and screwed back and forth the whole length of the thread on the bolt, using a wrench if necessary, until it may be easily turned with the fingers. The inside of the boiler plate and the face of the hand-hole plate, where the packing touches, should be scraped as clean and smooth as possible. Care must be taken in inserting the plate, to pre- vent displacing the gasket. When the hand-hole plate is in place, the nut should not be screwed down too tightly, when the engine is cold, as the gasket may be injured so that it would not stand steam pressure. It is best to screw up the nut only moderately tight when cold, and turn it up a little more with a wrench when steam begins to show on the gage, and then a little more from time to time until the steam gage shows working pressure. In this wav, the rubber has THE BOILER. gi a chance to soften with the heat and adapt itself to the iron surfaces. Cleaning the Tubes. The tubes should be cleaned at least once each day, whether in burning coal, wood or straw. The tube scraper is adjustable, and may be set out while in the tube by turning the rod to the right. Turning the rod to the left decreases the size of the scraper. Soot is a very poor conductor of heat, and even a thin coating of it affects the efficiency of the boiler to a considerable extent. It is therefore, essential to keep the scraper well set out, so that all the soot will be removed. Expanding and Beading the Tubes. Leaky tubes should be fixed the first time the engine cools. When the steam no longer shows on the gage, remove the ash-pan bottom and erates; also the bricks, if the engine be a straw burner. If the leaks be only slight ones, they may be stopped by simply using a beading tool. To do this clean the end of the tube and the tube sheet and place the long or guiding end of the tool within the tube. Use a small hammer, and with light blows bead the tube all around, moving the tool slightly at each blow. The beading tool may be used when there is water in the boiler, but care must be taken to use only very light blows of the hammer or the concussion will be trans- mitted by the water and loosen other tubes. Having water in the boiler when beading the tubes has the advantage of showing the leaks so that it may be known when the tube is tight. If the leaks be more serious, it will be necessary to Q2 SCIENCE Of SUCCESSFUL THRESHING, use an expander. The expander requires considerable care and some experience to use, and in the hands of an inexper- ienced or careless workman, may cause great damage to the boiler by distorting the flue sheet, or rolling the tubes thin and worthless. In using the roller expander, place the flange against the tube sheet and drive the pin in with a few light blows. Then turn it back and forth with a wrench until it loosens. Drive the pin in again, and repeat the operation several times. The roller expander may be used when there is water in the boiler. Ifa spring or plug expander be used, be sure that it is the right size, and is made to fit the thick- ness of the flue sheet in your boiler. This is very important. To use the spring expander, place it within the tube with the shoulder well up against the tube sheet. Drive in the taper pin with a few light blows and then jar it out by striking it on the side. Repeat several times, turning the expander a little each time, until it has made a complete revolution. The spring expander cannot be used when there is water in the boiler, as the jar of the hammer-blows will be transmitted to the other tubes and loosen them. Use plenty of oil on either style of expander, and carefully clean the end of the tube of soot and scale before inserting the tool. Care must be taken, in expanding the tubes, not to expand them so hard as to stretch or enlarge the hole in the tube sheet, and thereby loosen the adjoining tubes. When all of the leaky tubes have been expanded, they must be beaded down against the sheet with the beading tool. Se OEE BOLEER: 93 Danger of Using an Old Boiler. There is danger of a boiler exploding with plenty of water in it, if any part has corroded or been weakened so that a considerable Portion Of; it is liable to give (way at, any tune.” Phe water in a steam boiler under pressure, is explosive, and anything that reduces the pressure suddenly, will precipi- tate an explosion. Return flue boilers are especially dan- perous when old, on account of the large flue. Testing a Boiler. To test an old boiler is not an easy matter. We advise making the “cold water test” as follows: Fill the boiler nearly full of water and build a fire to heat the water luke warm. When this is done, withdraw the fire, fill the boiler to the top of the dome and attach a small hand pump. The steam gage will register the pressure, which may be anything desired. The chill is taken off the water as the boiler is less liable to be strained when the iron is a little warm. The boiler may be tested with a hammer, but when coated with scale, this is not easy, even for an expert. The best way to test it is to go over the boiler with a straight-edge, carefully noting how much the sheets are out of shape. This should be done first with no pressure, then repeating, increasing the pressure with the pump about twenty-five pounds at a time. On a locomotive boiler, the straight edge should be placed between the stay bolts. The parts exposed to the greatest heat should be examined par- ticularly, as should also the bottom of the shell and along the riveted seams, where it is Hable to be corroded. If there be any doubt about any part, or if the straight-edge 94 SCIENCE. OF ‘SUGECESSPUL THRESHING. + shows that the sheets spring or bulge with the pressure, the only way to be sure is to drill a small hole and determine the thickness. If found to be safe, the hole may be made tight by tapping and screwing in a copper plug. Another Method. VINA fore starting up or down a very steep hill. If it be in good order. it will not fail to do its work. Oiling the Clutch. When the engine is traveling the entire FIG. 32. clutch moves together with the SECTION OF CLUTCH-ARM AND RINGS. exception of the trunnion- ring. This, then, should be oiled when the engine is on the road. When threshing, the clutch remains stationary, while the shaft revolves within it. The long sleeve should then be oiled and also the end of the fly-wheel hub where it comes in contact with the end of the sleeve. There are THE TRACTION GEARING. 99 eight or nine oil-holes in the sleeve, three of which are drilled between the teeth of the pinion. There is also an oil-hole in the upper trunnion of the trunnion-ring. FIG. 33. REAR VIEW OF “CASE” TRACTION ENGINE. The Differential Gear. In order to have both traction wheels pull, when the engine is traveling either forward or backward, and at the same time allow one wheel to travel further than the other in turning corners, the differential gear is necessary. It transmits the power from the intermediate gear to the two counter-shaft pinions, which mesh with the I1OO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. spur gears on the traction wheels. The four bevel pinions are carried by the center casting, and mesh with two bevel gears, one of which is cast in one piece with the right-hand counter-shaft pinion, (which is loose upon the shaft), and the other of which is keyed to the counter-shaft and drives the left-hand counter-shaft pinion, (which is also keyed to the shaft). It will be seen that when the engine travels straight ahead, both counter-shaft pinions turn with the shaft and the whole differential revolves as one piece. In turning corners, however, the bevel pinions revolve, permitting one of the counter-shaft pinions to revolve faster than the other, thus allowing the traction wheels to accommodate themselves to the curve of the road. The differential spur wheel is a separate piece from the center casting, the power being trans- mitted from the rim to the center casting through coil springs, which relieve the gearing of the shocks of starting and stopping the engine. Locking the Differential. When both traction wheels have resistance, they pull equally, but if the engine be “‘jacked up” until one of them is off the ground and free to turn, then when the engine is started, the differential gear will allow the free traction wheel to revolve at twice its usual speed, while the traction wheel on the ground will scarcely pull at all. Revolving at twice its usual speed means that the free traction wheel makes one revolution to nine of the fly-wheel, instead of, to the usual eighteen. Often, when one wheel is in a slippery place, it will spin around, while THE TRACTION GEARING. Tor the other on solid ground remains still without pulling at all. To provide for such emergencies, the hub of the left traction wheel is made so that a pin can be inserted and bath wheels locked to the axle. This, of course, makes both trac- tion wheels revolve together, and prevents the differential gear from working. The engine must be steered straight when the lock-pin is used, or broken gearing is liable to result. NWS re SSSary XS) ZZ Z \y FIG. 34. THE DIFFERENTIAL GEAR, SHOWING SPRINGS Oiling the Differential. The journals of the bevel-pin- -ons in the differential and the hub of the left traction wheel should be oiled occasionally. The left-hand or inside bevel- 102 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. gear turns upon the shaft, when the differential-gear works, and accordingly, it should be oiled occasionally through the hole provided for this purpose in its hub. The bevel-pinions also revolve about their shafts. An oil-hole is drilled through the center of each of these shafts, to provide for oiling them, as is shown in Fig. 32. The hub of the left traction wheel turns upon the axle in turning corners, and therefore should be oiled occasionally. This is done by removing the cap- screws in the hub of the traction wheel. CHAPTER X. WATER-TANKS. | \ HE threshing outfit, to be complete, must be is, provided with first-class water-tanks. A leaky tank is very apt to cause delay. One that is liable to break down may entirely cut off the water supply for a time. The axles are wet much of the time and therefore, rot ( Ss ARES ~—svery fast and are apt to break without warn- ing. Waiting for water for any cause should not be tol- erated by the man in charge of a threshing outfit, and one whose duty it is to haul water should never allow the rig to be idle for lack of it. In localities where the farms are small and water may be had near at hand, one mounted tank does very well, as the platform tank, (with which an engine is usually equipped), will furnish the water while the mounted tank is being refilled. In localities where the water must sometimes be hauled a mile or more, two mounted tanks are generally used, or if only one be used, three or four barrels should be provided to use in addition to the plat- form tank. Engine Tenders. Within the last few years engine ten- ders have come largely into use and they are very conven- ient, especially where most of the threshing is done around 103 104 SCIENCE) GF SUCCESSEUL THRESHING, barns and it is necessary to back the engine more or less. The engine tender does what its name implies, that is, it keeps a supply of coal and water near at hand: Tank Pumps. At least one tank with each outfit should have a tank pump, with a capacity of about two barrels a minute. The pump is of use not only in filling the tank, but also in rapidly transferring water from it to the platform tank, engine tender, or barrels. When equipped with a sprinkling hose, it is also useful in washing out the boiler. Attaching “Case” Tender. Remove the tank from under the platform. Place the tender in position behind the engine and put in the draw-pin. Turn the front axle of the engine square, measuring on each side with a string or tape from the traction wheel of the engine. Place the tender axle square, measuring from the traction wheels in like manner. Now connect the steering chains. They pass from the tender axle, above the step, along the sides of the fire-box and pass over the reach-rod, crossed, the right chain going to the left end and the left chain to the right end of the front axle. An eye-bracket, (56R), is placed on each side of the fire- box, near the bottom, through which the chains pass. To locate the holes for bolting these on, hold one of them in position, (with the bolt holes down), between the second and third rivet from the front, in the horizontal row of rivets along the sides, so that the center of the bolt holes will be four and three-eighths inches from the bottom of the sheet. Mark the holes through the casting and drill them WATER-TAN KS. 105 with a nine-sixteenths inch drill. This will bring the heads of the one-half inch bolts inside of the ash pan. The chain brackets on the front axle of the engine are placed so that the chain is above the axle. The position of these brackets is given in the table below. Lifeacears rc 3 Hoe oie ae Hag ees: so, | 82 8 | Shox | 8SoH | 838oR S1zp oft e 22S soa | Gah, as oe a ooo Encrxr | $29 | 888 | Bete | waS3 | Bess | wetes Mee 2Se 5 Saga Rod ao8 Bag 52 AS ‘a AEAS Assos Asa9 a A & & See hal | | | | Inches, Inches. Inches Inches Inches Inches | i i 9H.P.| 251 | 30 | 98 8614 37 3214 1 Aa 29 | b4 Ns 87 fi 2816 15°. P. 29 | 34 126 87 37 2516 20 H. ia 32 | 42 13416 87 37 24 29'H.) P. 32 42 14914 8716 37 221¢ The chains must not be allowed to get too loose. The wear may be taken up by means of the turn-buckles. If they are too taut, the engine will steer hard. When con- nected according to these directions, the tender will retain its alignment while following the engine backward or for- ward, around any curve. Attaching to Other Engines. For engines of other make, to find the distance the chains should be apart on the front axle, first place the tender in position and place the front axle of the engine and the axle of the tender square. Then measure the distance of the tender axle from the rear axle of the engine and multiply this number by the distance in inches between the chain connections on the tender axle, 106 SCIENCE OF (SUCCESSPUL) THRESHING: (thirty-seven inches). Divide this product by the distance of the front axle of the engine from the rear axle of the engine. The numbers must be in inches in every case and the quotient so obtained will be the distance the chains should be apart on the front axle of the engine. If it be impossible to put them the required distance apart on the engine axle, assume some distance between the connections on the tender axle and figure it again, substituting the assumed distance. To find the diameter of the wheels for the tender, subtract eleven from the number of inches the engine draw-eye is from the ground and multiply the remainder by two; the product will be the required diameter, in inches, of the tender wheels. Three sizes of wheels are furnished, thirty inch, thirty-four inch and forty-two inch. The parts necessary to attach the tender to ‘‘Case” center-crank engines can also be furnished, CHAPTER x1. HORSE-POWERS. @ .\ HE horse-power, which, at one time, was the principal means of driving threshing- machines, is still used to a considerable ex- tent for this purpose. With a sufficient num- ber of good, strong horses, this means of supplying the motive power for threshing is very satisfactory, and, owing to the fact that the investment involved in a horse-power outfit is consider- ably less than is required for a steam rig, it is probable that the horse-power will continue its usefulness in this industry for many years to come. The present style of metal-frame power is superior to the wood-frame because it is not sub- ject to atmospheric conditions, which continually cause the swelling and shrinking of wood. Starting a New Horse-Power. The first thing to do in preparing a new power for work is to carefully clean the cinders from the oil-boxes. Next, oil each of the bearings and thoroughly grease all the gearing, turning the power by hand until the entire wearing surface is well lubricated. A new power should be run at least half an hour before being coupled to the separator or other machine to be run. If the horses be nervous, because unused to the work, put a man e 107 108 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESIIING. with each team until they are accustomed to the noise and to traveling in a circle. Setting a Horse-Power. A horse-power, to work prop- erly, must be securely held in position. To do this, it is necessary to use at least four stakes, each of which should be about three feet long. The power should be set in align- ment with the separator so that the tumbling-rods are as straight as possible. As it is almost impossible to secure the power so that it will not shift slightly when started, it is best to make allowance for this when setting. The line of rods cannot be straight horizontally, as one end must attach to the spur-pinion shaft of the power and the other to the bevel-gear shaft of the separator, while the second rod from the power must lie near the ground in order to allow the horses to walk over it. The angles in the line of rods necessary to meet these conditions are taken care of by the knuckles connecting them, but the angles should be care- fully divided so that they are as slight as possible at each knuckle. When run at great angles, knuckles consume con- siderable power and cause excessive and unnecessary work on the part of the horses. Lubrication of the Horse-Power. There are two bull- pinion boxes, (an upper and lower), and two center-boxes at each end, making eight boxes in all, to be oiled on the bull-pinion shafts. There are also two spur-pinion shaft boxes and the journals of the traverse-rollers to be oiled. All the gearing and the bottom and the top of the bull-wheel HLORSE-POW ERS. TOQ rim should be coated with good axle grease. When the grease becomes hard and caked with dirt, it should be cleaned off and fresh grease applied. Connecting the Equalizers. The following cut shows a top view of a fourteen-horse power with ‘‘sweeps,” braces Rec) i y = =O. FIG. 35. TOP VIEW OF POWER WITH SWEEPS AND EQUALIZER ATTACHED: and equalizer-rods attached. In hooking the equalizer-rods, always hook the ends of two rods in the end ring of the Ifo SCIEN CE ‘OF (‘SUCCESSEUL -THRESHING: chains. The ring near the center of each chain is merely a stop and the rods should never be hooked into it. Speed of the Tumbling-Rods. The use of the sixteen- cog pinion, which gives one-hundred and one revolutions of the tumbling-rods to one round of the horses, is recom- mended, and will ordinarily run the cylinder of a ‘“‘Case” separator at the proper speed. The following table gives. a complete list of spur-pinions for “Case” horse-powers, any of which may be obtained if desired. : bos woe a ao Y sf 3 aS ESE aa 3 v Woes easy fa) th v Ko) H gu dwVW om WU g (3) te 50 4 aw Oy omen 3 = ° (0) » 2 ce Pp ¢ Dp H me) Ao) Lo} pe u we a 1 Og ww OS ae ES B OO us ams Sale ° v q 29 Oe Rest v : eI poe | foe | SoS ° [o} i) wR pe Zz FQ A ‘MER D2'x DL’ D 44%W 11149 15 107 267 241 Wood 4 W 11145 16 IOI 252 227) Wood 44W 1115 17 95 237 214 Wood 9 W I1lo 18 - go 225 202 Wood a NW: I1l~o 20 8I 202 182 Wood AYW 1ll%o a1 76 190 vp Wood 8 W I1lZo 22 73 182 164 Wood A212W % 15 107 267 241 Iron 212W 1% 16 IOI 252 227 Iron 213W 14 17 95 237 214 Tron AgW 1% 18 go 225 202 Iron A7W 1% 20 8I 202 182 iron ASW 1% 22 78 182 164 iron 1 Separator Side-Gear. A separator must be fitted with a side-gear, or a jack must be used, in order to be driven by means of a horse-power. A speed of 750 revolutions for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder of “Case” separators fitted with a side-gear, requires a tumbling-rod HORSE-POWERS. Tit speed of about 227 revolutions per minute. The required speed of the tumbling-rods is found, i each case, by multi- plying the number of revolutions of the cylinder by the num- ber of teeth on the cylinder-pinion and dividing the product by the number of teeth on the bevel-gear. Jacks for Horse-Powers. The device used to change the motion of the tumbling-rods into that of a pulley is called a “jack.” The “Case” jack has a bevel-gear, (208T), with sixty teeth and a pinion, (209T), with twenty-two teeth. The pulley, (206T), is sixteen inches in diameter and has a six-inch face. Adjusting the Iron-Frame Horse-Power. It is very 1m- portant that the bull-pinions should mesh properly with the bull-wheel. When the bull-pinion shafts are correctly set, the bull-wheel will not have more than one-sixteenth of an inch up and down play at any point. As the web between the upper and lower cogs of the bull-wheel varies in thick- ness, it is best to locate the thickest place and mark it. This part may be then turned between the bull-pinions and the shaft bearings adjusted so that the gears mesh as deeply as possible and at the same time’ allow the bull-wheel to pass freely between them. In building powers at the factory leather packing is placed between the box of the upper short bull-pinion shaft and the main frame It is the inten- tion to shave down this leather packing frorm time to time as the bearings wear, thus allowing the bull-pinions to be kept in proper mesh by means of set screws. The box of the PiZ SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. lower short bull-pinion shaft has no leather between it and the main frame; however, it can be set deeper in gear at any time by turning its set-screw from below. The main spur-wheel shaft is not adjustable and the set screws bear- ing against its boxes are used only to prevent them from becoming loose in their slots. Adjustable slides are placed above and below the bull-wheel. Those below have set- screw adjustment, and should be adjusted, as they wear, so that the bull-wheel just clears the lower bull-pinions. The top slides prevent the up and down movement of the bull- wheel, and should be set down as they wear. The traverse- rollers prevent the bull-wheel from crowding endwise on the bull-pinions. They should be set out by the key adjustment as they wear. The spur-pinion frame is secured by four five-eighths inch bolts in slotted holes. These allow adyust- ment of the pinion so that it may be made to mesh properly with the spur-wheel. When properly set, the pitch circles will touch and the spur-pinion shaft will be parallel with the spur-wheel shaft. Caution Concerning the Bull-Pimon Boxes. The bull- pinion boxes, 8144W and 8114W, have flanges which hook over the outside of the main frame, thus preventing them from crowding toward the center. When these boxes have been removed, care must be taken in replacing them to insure these flanges hooking over the outside of the frame, for if they be placed too far toward the center of the power, these flanges may come in contact with the box seat and prevent HORSE-POWERS. ie 13 the bull-pinions from meshing as deeply as they should with the bull-wheel. To prevent their getting loose, the large set-screws are locked by means of small set-screws, which bear against their threads. Removing the Shafts. To take out the spur-wheel shaft, remove the four bolts that secure the cross-pieces to the main frame, and drop them, together with the spur-pinion frame, to the ground. Next remove the four bolts securing the bull-pinion boxes and those securing the center boxes, after which the spur-wheel shaft may be taken out without disturbing the gears keyed to it. The short bull-pinion shafts have trunnion-boxes at their inner ends, which permit movement sufficient to allow the shafts to be removed. It is necessary to remove the wood piece with slide attached, which is on the rear axle. Reversing the Gearing. The bull-wheel may be turned over, the short shafts interchanged and the spur-wheel shaft reversed, (end for end). so that the teeth of all the gearing may be worn on both their faces. Reverse Motion of Tumbling-Rods. The direction in which the tumbling-rods revolve may be reversed so that they turn in the same direction as that in which the horses walk, instead of turning, as usual, in the opposite direction. When reverse motion is necessary for driving machinery other than “Case” separators, proceed to attach the parts as follows: First, bore a one and one-half inch hole in rear axle, two and three-eighths inches from its top and five and I14 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. one-half inches from the center of the bolt holding the cast- ing, 184W or 222W. Then bolt steady-bearing, 104W, on the inside of the axle with seven-sixteenths by four and three-fourths inch bolts. Next put the knuckle on the spur- pinion shaft and connect it with the short rod, o125W, which passes through the casting, 104W, and through the hole in the axle. | Attaching Truck-Brake to Ivon-Frame Horse-Power. Put the brake pipe under the main frame with casting 21oW, face down and on the right-hand side. The pipe is located between the two five-eighths inch hooks and rear wheel, the short ends of the hooks coming outside of the iron frame. In order to prevent the nuts from working loose, the ends of the hooks may be riveted. When this is done, casting 321W may be bolted on top of the flange of the main frame. A hole to receive it will be found on the front end of the power frame. Next insert the iron lever into its socket, 210W, and tighten the set-screws, which should not be tightened too much, or they will cause unnecessary strain on casting 210W. Put the ratchet in casting 232W with the hole down and with the notches turned towards the front. Then, put it in the notch that holds the brake from the wheels, and bolt it to the brake lever below. Place the brake-block casting, 208W, on the right end of the pipe and 209W on the left; bring the blocks against the wheels and turn the set screws up tight; then loosen and remove, and with a file or cold chisel, flatten a place on the pipe for the HORSE-POW ERS. Il5 set-screws. This will prevent the pipe from turning in these castings. The pipe is countersunk for the set-screws in 210W, these set-screws being tightened at the factory. The key with straps should be nailed to the driver’s platform. This is used to prevent the brake from dropping onto the wheels when not wanted. The brake is applied by the foot. Do not press the ratchet down harder than necessary. The Spur-Wheel and Bull-Pinion Shafts. The key- seats of these shafts are cut in line with each other and those in the bull-pinions and inside-pinions are cut with reference to one of their teeth so that when the pinions are keyed to the shaft, their teeth will be in line. It will be seen that if the shaft has been twisted so that the teeth of the pinions are even slightly out of line, the power cannot be made to run properly. A new spur-wheel shaft is the only remedy for such a condition. Work Done by Horses. The sweeps of the twelve-horse power and smaller sizes are twelve feet and seven inches long, and their ends move in a circle the circumference of which is seventy-nine feet. The sweeps of the fourteen- horse power are fourteen feet long, and their ends move in a circle, the circumference of which is eighty-nine feet. Horses ordinarily travel around the seventy-nine foot circle two and one-half times a minute, and around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-fourth times a minute, in either case covering about two and one-fourth miles per hour. The term “horse-power” (the standard measure of power) is defined Pp 116 SCIENCE OF!) SUCCESSFUL TARESHING as the power necessary to raise 33,000 pounds one foot per minute. A horse walks two hundred feet per minute in traveling around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one- quarter times per minute so that to do work equal to one ‘“horse-power” it is necessary for it to pull only one-hundred and sixty-five pounds, which is the quotient of 33,000 di- vided by 200. This quotient does not allow for the friction of the machine. The Number of Horses. When desired for light work, the regular twelve-horse power with six sweeps may be used with only six horses by tying up equalizers on the empty sweeps and attaching teams to alternate sweeps, or by hitch- ing a single horse to each sweep. In the same manner any of the other sizes of horse-powers may be used with half the usual number of horses. Since different numbers of sweeps are used the holes in the bull-wheel are marked with dots so that the brackets and end-supports for the sweeps may be easily placed in their proper positions. One of each of Hees castings should be first bolted to the holes with three dots near them for this set of holes is used with any number of levers. Bull-wheel 89W has the dots at the side of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses, and outside of the holes for eight horses. Bull- wheel 10W has the dots at the sides of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses and outside of the holes for fourteen horses. TL HORSE-POWERS. ‘MAMOd ANVYAI NOU] ASNOH-VI GNV CI AO MAIA IVNOILOAS “Ob easel gle WAY po ee Lee be 118 SCIENCE .OF SUCCESSEUL THRESHING PARTS USED ON IRON AND WOOD FRAME POWERS. Sandio | 1zand 14 pent iG A ARO PEE Horse Size.|Horse Size. Frames . 44W A%W |Wood| Spur-pinion. 212 W | 212 W (|Iron Spur-pinion. 0122 W |or22 W |Both | Spur-pinion shaft. 89 W]| 10 W {Both | Bull-wheel. W | 15 W |Both | Bull-pinion. Ww | 16 W [Both | Inside-pinion. or21 W |or2t W |Both | Inside-pinion shaft. W W q 43 Both | Spur-wheel. 0124 W [Both | Spur-wheel shaft. 814%W | 45 W |Both | Half bull-pinion box. 81%4W | 45%W |Both | Other half bull-pinion box. 220 W | 182 Iron Cast frame for power. W 121 W | 183. W {Iron Rear-axle bracket, R. H. 122 W | 185 W |Iron Rear-axle bracket, L. H. 227 W | 187 W |Iron Top cap for bull-pinion box. 188 W | 188 W |Iron Top slide holder, 189 W | 189 W {Iron Top slide for bull-wheel. 190 W | 190 W |Iron | Bottom cap for bull-pinion box. 225 W | Igt W (Iron Center-box for spur-wheel shaft, R. H. 193 W | 193 W {Iron Inside trunnion box for shaft. 218 W | 218 W |Iron Front support for spur-gear frame. 219 W | 219 W |iron Rear support for spur-gear frame. 197 W | 197. W {Iron Support for short shaft, center-box, L. H. 199 W | 199 W (Iron Support for short shaft, center-box, R. H. 229 W | 202 W (Iron Support for bull-wheel slide, Rear, 230 W | 203. W {Iron Support for bull-wheel slide, Front. 204 W | 204 W {Iron Slide under bull-wheel. 214 W | 214 W Iron Spur-gear frame. 215 W | 215 W (Iron Cap for spur-gear frame, 216 W | 216 W |Iron Brake-wheel. 217 W | 217. W {Iron Collar on spur-pinion shaft. 55 W | 12 W |Wood| Back support. 56 W 13. W |Wood| Front Support. 19 W 19 W |Wooa} Support for center-box. 20 W | 40 W |Wood| Center-box for spur-wheel shaft. 48 W | 48 W |Wood| Cap for spur-gear frame. 49 W | 49 W |Wood} Back Stirrup for spur-gear frame. 50 W | 50 W |Wood| Front Stirrup for spur-gear frame. 52 W | 52 W |Wood| Spur-gear frame. 75 W| 75 W |Wood| Arch frame. LW “Ww ~sI ON Nox sw] » NN = Wood | Inside-box, inside-pinion shaft. Wood} Cap to hold bull-pinion box, 82 W | 82 W |Wood]| Slide under bull-wheel. Wood | Brake-wheel. a ioe) a | ioe) = = ON WwW A Lol On Ww ~ PART IL SEPARATORS. Te Oia ‘MMOLVUVdAS ASVD,, JO- AMAIA IVNOILOGS 6 wove os BoA DAVOS ’ Faw nnn sete nnn nees- me Se = 2 z Se roe SARTRE SUT. 4. = 319} OE a OSE G9 BOAAANO > 3 - : is 4 o} EERO EEEEMOUVOD Q 1004 zs \\ $9 Y 7 yy ons pe fo, Sy Y ge L ie oF ° Pi sie [ i BIDUL o3343 - = J! : OEY a \ : nd Ls ; : ‘ SONITIOL Yordawod CEA A Rise PLELING TOE AN DE STARTING. Ay INT SEPARATOR, ss” OME separators are shipped from the factory “set-up” with pulleys and all parts put on and all attachments in place. Others, for com- pactness, are shipped as they are stored, with tailings-elevator removed and tied on the deck, pulleys and other parts packed inside the ma- chine, and the attachments “knock-down’— that is, taken apart and small parts boxed. For ocean ship- ment, separators are taken apart so that all parts may be boxed. Setting Up. In setting up a dismantled separator, care should be taken to see that all nuts and keys are properly tightened. The pulleys must be set in line to insure the belts running properly. The cuts showing belting arrangement will aid in placing the pulleys in their proper position. If the box of parts contains a list of its contents, the names and numbers will also help in determining the position of each. The crank-shaft which drives the straw-rack and conveyor should be put in with the long end to the right. Starting a New Separator. A new machine should be 121 I22 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL ‘THRESHING. set up and run a couple of hours, before attempting to thresh any grain. Look into the machine on the straw rack, conveyor and fans, and then turn each shaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure there is nothing loose or misplaced in the machine, before putting on the belts. Oiling. The oil boxes should be carefully cleaned of cinders and dirt that may have collected during shipment, and the paint removed from the oil holes. Screw down the plugs of the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes to the end of the threads, using a wrench, if necessary, to clean off the paint. Fill the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes with hard oil and fill oil cups on cylinder boxes with a good lubricating oil. It is best to first place a small quan- tity of wool or cotton waste in the bottom of each oil-cup. Connect the separator with engine or other power, running only the cylinder for a time, and feeling of the boxes to ascer- tain whether they show any tendency to heat. While the cylinder is running, oil both ends of the crank pitmans, the four bearings of the rock shafts and the two of the tailer rock shaft if there be one. Take off the tightener pulley from its spindle, clean the oil chambers and oil the spindle before replacing it. Put on the belt driving beater and crank (see cut page 170), which will put the beater, straw rack and conveyor in motion. Next oil the shoe-pitman eccentrics and the bearings of the shoe shaft if there be one. * This shaft is driven from the fan on right side of machine (see cut page 176), The fan belt, which runs over crank belt, but FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW SEPARATOR. 123 not under tightener (see cut page 170), and the shoe belt may be now run on. Oil the moving parts as they run, occasionally screwing down the grease plugs on crank- and fan-shaft boxes. The chain of the tailings elevator should be adjusted so that it has slack enough to turn freely, but not enough to allow it to kink or unhook. After oiling the upper boxes and both bearings of the tailings auger and the four of the tailings conveyor, run on the elevator belt, which drives from the crank, crossed, (see cut page 128). Oil the bearings of the grain auger and put on its belt. Where no grain elevator is used, this belt will go on either side of the machine, so that it may always be on the opposite side to that from which the grain is taken. When all parts of the separator are in motion the bear- ings should be carefully watched to detect any tendency to heat, and this can best be done when the machine is running empty, for the operator can then give it his entire attention. The machine has been tested and left the factory in good running order, but dirt and grit of shipment by rail is liable to cause trouble and it is best to make sure that all the bear- ings are oiled. It is of great importance that these bearings be well oiled on the first run, as they are somewhat rough, and consequently require more oil and a longer time for it to spread over the journals. Oiling a shaft as it runs, allows the oil to work in and be distributed over the whole bearing surface. When the machine has run for an hour or so and every- 124 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. thing shown to be in good order, it is ready for threshing. After adjusting the concaves, check board, sieves and blinds, to suit the kind and condition of grain, according to the directions given elsewhere in this book, grain may be run through the machine. GCEAPTER ft. SEE LING? Phe SHEPARATOR. i .\ HE separator may do good work if the rear ‘truck wheels be a few inches higher or lower than the front wheels, but it must always be level crossways. Use a spirit level of good length on the rear axle and on the sills. A little practice or calculation will enable one ( SS to determine how deep a hole to dig in front of the high wheel in order to bring the machine level when pulled into it. Knowing the axles of the separator to be about twelve feet apart, it is easy to calculate how much the front or rear wheels must be lowered to bring the machine level. For example, if a spirit level two feet* in length be used and when placed on the sill of machine its front end must be raised one-half inch to bring it level, then the rear wheels must be lowered six times as much, or three inches, to bring separator level. This method may also be used in determining the amount to lower one rear wheel to bring machine level crossways, which, as already stated, is more important than having it level lengthways. In this case, however, the amount is different for each size of separator. *In this case the distance between axles (twelve feet), is just six times the length of the lever, (two feet). 125 126 SCIENCE. OF SUCCESSFUL: TERESTHING, The hole or holes should be dug before the engine is un- coupled or the team unhitched, so that if not level, machine may be pulled out, the holes changed and the machine backed into them. When the machine is high in front, it can be quickly leveled, after engine or team has been removed, by cramping the front axle, digging in front of one wheel and behind the other, so that wheels will drop into the holes when pole is brought around square. With geared machines “bolster-jacks” are used to keep the “side-gear”’ from twisting front end of machine out of level. The hind axle being level, place the bolster-jacks in position, and screw them up so as to level the front of ma- chine. It is not necessary to have the front axle level, as the bolster-jacks will accommodate themselves to it. Place a block in front of the right hind wheel to prevent the machine from being drawn forward by the belt. This block’ should be carried with the machine, so as to be handy when needed. When pulling the machine out of holes, starting it on soft ground or on a hill, cramp the team around to one side, and it will move the load with about half the effort necessary to start straight ahead. In cramping the front axle, but one of the hind wheels starts at a time. | Setting with Reference to the Wind. The thresherman cannot always choose the direction in which to set the ma- chine, but when he can, he should select a position in which the wind will be blowing in the same general directions as SEC LING, THE SERPARATOR, L27 that in which the straw is moving, and preferably a little “quartering,” as this keeps the men out of the dust more than when set straight with the wind. This position insures greater safety from fire in case wood or straw is used as fuel. SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Or SCIENCE ‘yeYs ayVus s0ys uo AaTInNg ‘dn pus ,,0S ‘axeys soys saatip Aol[ng ‘yJeYS Josne uieis uo Aang ‘Iasne Ulesis SOALIp AdTIN *yFeYS 10}eAdla SSuT[Ie} uO Ao jnNg *IOJLAI[I SSUI[IL} S9ALIp Aang *‘yyeYs Jayoe}s UOMIMOD uo Aa] Ng ‘AaTind 19[pt ‘IIYOeVJS MOMUIMOS SaalIp Ad] [Ng *poom puke Jaajs ‘dn pue ,,og *Aat[nd aalip ulvyy *poom pure [393s ‘,,9v ‘AaT[nd dalip ure ‘ *poom pue ]99}s *,,z¥ 01 gf ‘AaT[nd satip Urey ‘OMEN 9a, Kz 8 ’ Lr1evs Ver Ke 149 a LPErS Ler yz C1 xs ( Lezcr 841 € I rs LSog1 er Yt _ ot O) Lozs eI “AS “AOL a LeZor 9141 We _ tl uw Litory I Vas “9 S Wgsts sé £ et at S091 9142 6 {Cr Vv LPEZS 861 6 y46 V Loos 1 8 8 Vv ros “o10g *QOBY “ToJIMeIG | ‘yyeUS *TIquinss SAMOVIS NOWWOD HLIM YOLVUVdAS AO ACIS LHDIU "Of ‘OIA — CHAP PER TLE EE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND: BEATER: T is the function of the cylinder and concaves to loosen the kernels of grain from the straw on which they grew. The ends of the cylin- der teeth travel about a mile a minute so that the grain in going through meets the con- cave teeth with considerable force. The con- cave teeth engage with the cylinder teeth in such a way that the grain heads cannot pass through with- out being broken and the kernels knocked out although the straw is in contact with the cylinder but a fraction of a second. If the teeth be in good condition and a sufficient number of rows of concave teeth be used to suit the work, practically all of the grain will be knocked out. Cylinder Teeth. When the cylinder is new or newly re- filled, care should be taken to keep the teeth tight until they become fitted to their holes and firmly seated. The cylinder should be gone over occasionally during the first week, and each tooth driven in hard with a heavy hammer and the nuts tightened. If this be done, ordinarily the teeth will give no further trouble, but if at any time they show a ten- dency to get loose, they should be carefully watched. At the factory the teeth are driven in and tightened with a long 129 130 SCIEN CE) OF VSUCCESSFUL) THRESHING: handled auger wrench and then driven in and tightened again, but they are liable to get loose the first few days unless special attention be paid them. If a tooth be allowed to re- main loose for any length of time the hole will become so misshapen that the tooth cannot be kept tight thereafter. The teeth should be kept straight, not only so they will fot strike, but also so that they will'pass at equal distances from the concave teeth on both sides. Cylinder Speed. It is very important that the cylinder run at the proper speed. If run too fast, there is danger of cracking the grain, and if run too slowly, it will not thresh clean. Then, too, the work of ‘separation and cleaning is very much easier if the cylinder runs at the proper speed and is never allowed to get below it. The motion must be | uniform if the best results be expected, for every time it is allowed to get much below or above the correct speed, the separator will waste grain. With the regular pulleys, the large 20-bar cylinder of -the Case separator should run at 750 revolutions per minute to give the proper speed to the other parts of the machine. The regular speed of the small or 12-bar cylinder is 1075 revolutions per minute. In thresh- ing tough rye or oats, the cylinder is subjected to more work, and often runs too slowly if attempt be made to maintain the normal speed, therefore, the cylinder should run faster than usual, say, 800 for the 20-bar and 1150 for the 12-bar, in order that the other parts of the machine may run up to their usual speed. Some grains and legumes require special THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. T3t cylinder speed for which a change in cylinder pulleys is usually made. These are given elsewhere in this book. MAIN CYLINDER PULLEYS. Number. | Diameter. Face Bore MACHINE, 5564T Gress y's 1% ”” 12-Bar Wood. 7611 by: he S7'K, 1% ’’ 12—Bar Steel or Wood. s5o1T SY” oy, “e 154” 12-Bar Steel or Wood. 5014%T Oa i 1%” 12-Bar Wood. 1867T 8%” 8 127 146” 12-Bar Wood. 861T 834’’ ciara 1%” 12-Bar Steel or Wood. S004 | i Go 156 ’” 12-Bar Steel or Wood. * 5005 9y’’ oy 1% 4" 12-Bar Wood. 5006T ae Gg. 2%" 12-Bar Wood. 500T 93%” Gs 15%” 12-Bar Steel or Wood. 5051T 110i” 9 ” 15% 7” 12-Bar Steel or Wood. a che 9 ‘s 1%’ 12-Bar Wood. 5053 10l/’” Oia! 2a.” 12-Bar Wood. 5441T 1? 94” 2416” 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 536071 11%” 9K” 274 6”’ 20-Bar Steel or Wood, 5368T es 94” 2Viei 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5204T 13,36”” Sie 2%16 20-Bar Steel or Wood. A5294T 143%” yr 216” 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5440T 15%” 94” 274 6” 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 53691 16.7% i, oe 246” 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5372T BG <7” Oi | 2410” 20-Bar Steel or Wood. Ascertaining Cylinder Speed. The best way to as- certain the speed is by means of a revolution counter, but if one be not at hand, the speed may be found by counting the number of times the main drive belt goes around in a minute. To do this, multiply the re- quired speed of the cylinder by the circumference of the cylinder pulley in inches and divide by 12 to reduce to feet. Dividing by the length of the belt in feet will give the re- quired number of times belt should go arotitd in a minute. For example: If cylinder be a 20-bar, its speed should be > 132 SCIENCE’ OF) SUCCESSFUL: THRESHING: 750 and the regular pulley 5294T for this is 13% inches in diameter or 42 inches in circumference. Multiplying 750 by 42 gives 31,500 inches as the product. Dividing this by 12 to reduce to feet gives 2625 feet per minute as the required travel of the belt. If this be 120 feet long, dividing by 120 gives 22 (nearly) as the required number of rounds of the belt per minute. With a 150 foot belt, the number of rounds will be nearly 18 or with 160 foot belt 17 (nearly) rounds. In the same manner, the required number of rounds can be figured for any cylinder speed, cylinder pulley or length of belt. Cylinder Boxes. The cylinder boxes are the most im- portant bearings on a separator and they must receive a cer- tain amount of attention or there will be trouble. All Case 20 bar cylinders are fitted with ball and socket boxes, which practically eliminate all possibility of their heating from improper alignment. The boxes are eight inches long, allow- ing a good bearing surface for these large cylinders and are fitted with oil cups which hold a sufficient quantity of oil to amply lubricate the bearings. The 12 bar cylinders of the steel separators also have ball and socket or ‘‘self-aligning” boxes. The chapter on “Lubrication and Hot Boxes”’ should be read with special reference to the cylinder boxes. To Take “End Play” Out of the Cylinder. Loosen lower half of housing of box by slacking the nuts which secure it, and slide it against hub of cylinder head. The holes in the ironsides are slotted to allow for this end adjustment and also THE CYLINDER, ‘CONCAVES AND BEATER. 133 to permit the moving of the cylinder in case the cylinder teeth do not come exactly between the concave teeth. Do not crowd cylinder box so hard against the cylinder head as to cause danger of heating. It is best to leave about 1/64 of an inch end play. Tracking of Teeth. All regular Case 20 bar cylinders have five teeth which pass in the same space between the con- cave teeth, during one revolution, “‘five teeth tracking”’ as it is called. The 12 bar cylinders have three teeth tracking. Some machines of other manufacture have two and some four teeth tracking, and some have irregular spacing, as, for example, three and six alternating. The effect of this latter arrangement is to take twice as much straw through some concave spaces as through others. Cracking Grain. The cut on the following page is full size and shows the actual distance between the concave and cylinder teeth of our regular cylinder. It is shown to em- phasize the importance of having the cylinder properly ad- justed endwise and of keeping the teeth straight. Supposing all the teeth to be straight and that the cylinder be moved 1/16 of an inch to one end. Then instead of there being 1/8 of an inch space between the cylinder and concave teeth on both sides, the cylinder teeth would be 3/16 of an inch from the concave teeth on one side and only 1/16 of an inch from them on the other. This condition of affairs would allow the heads to slip through without being threshed on one side of the teeth and on the other would crack the grain and cut Gt) NSE c SYLIND DER a Pe alae PIN ANE i ea CONCAVE TOOTH GONGAVE TOOTH) i WE OHV SS SNe AN || INS \ FIG) 30. ( CUD SHOWING SPACE BETWEEN ON ee AND CONCAVE TEETH—FULL SIZE. THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. 135 up the straw, thereby consuming much power, increasing the difficulties of separation and making the sieves handle a large amount of chaff. This same condition exists when all of the teeth are more or less bent. The cylinder may be moved endwise, as already explained, to give the proper spaces between the teeth, but the teeth must be kept straight. Special Cylinders, To do good work in rice a special cylinder and concave are required with a wider spacing of the teeth than the regular ones. This gives more clearance be- tween the cylinder and concave teeth and, together with a reduced speed, prevents the cylinder from cracking the rice. A special cylinder and concaves are also made for threshing peas and beans. Either of these special cylinders may be put in any Case separator by making the complete change in cylinder, concaves and concave circles. Further informa- tion regarding threshing rice, peas, beans, etc., is given else- where in this book. | Balancing Cylinders. On account of the high speed at which cylinders run, they must be accurately balanced or they will not run smoothly. It is essential in balancing a cyl- inder that the weights used for this purpose be placed where the deficiency of weight exists. The shop practice is to rest the journals of a cylinder on level ways and put weights under center bands until the cylinder will stand at any point on the ways. The cylinder is then put in a frame having narrow, loosely fitting wooden boxes and run at about 1200 revolutions per minute. The parts of the jour- 136 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. nals extending beyond the boxes are marked as it runs. These marks show the initiated at which end and at what point to drive the weights used in the final balancing. A cylinder may be balanced, though not as perfectly as is done at the factory, by resting it on ways made by placing two carpenter’s squares on wooden horses. The squares should have blocks nailed on each side to keep them on edge, and should be carefully leveled both ways. Place the cylinder near the center of the ways and roll it gently. Mark with a piece of chalk the bar that is uppermost when it comes to rest. Repeat, and if cylinder stops in the same position three times in succession, drive a wedge under center band at the chalk mark. Rub off the marks and repeat until the cylin- der comes to rest at any point. Care should be taken not to mar the journals in placing them on the ways. The Concaves. All that has been said about keeping the cylinder teeth tight applies also to the concave teeth. They should be driven in and tightened as often as necessary, until they are firmly seated. In driving them in, it is neces- sary, however, to use some judgment, for as the concaves are of cast iron, they are liable to split if the teeth are driven in too hard. : Setting the Concaves. The concaves should be adjusted to suit the kind and condition of grain. Four rows of teeth are usually required for wheat and barley, but for damp grain six rows will be necessary. Rye can usually be threshed with two rows, but the cylinder speed should be THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. 137 higher than for wheat. Oats when dry can generally be threshed with two rows of teeth, but flax and timothy will require six rows. Where four are used, they are most effective if one concave be placed clear back and one in front with a blank in the center. In hand feeding, if the straw be dry and brittle, the cylinder can be given more “draw” by placing a blank in front. Always use as few teeth, and leave them as low as is possible and thresh clean. When more teeth than are required are used, or when they are left higher than is necessary, the straw will be cut up, and, be- sides using more power, the separation is made much more difficult, and the sieves are obliged to handle an unnecessarily large amount of chopped straw. It is better to use two rows set clear up, than four rows left low. Sometimes a row of teeth is taken out of a concave, making it possible to use one, three or five rows. Special Concaves. Some grains, as for example, Turkey wheat, are extremely difficult to thresh from the head, and if it be found that the regular six rows will not thresh clean, a three-row concave, filled with corrugated teeth, should be procured. This, with two regular concaves, will give seven rows of teeth. Should it be necessary, two, or even three, three-row concaves of corrugated teeth may be used. The three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are usually used for threshing alfalfa, but for clover, the special clover concaves are necessary. Information concerning them is given else- where in this book. 138 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Adjustment of Concaves. In the left side of the “iron- 3 sides,’ or cylinder side castings, of the wood 12 bar sep- arator, there are thumbscrews, which press against the con- cave circle and take up the end play of the concaves. The steel and 20 bar wood machines have set screws in both ironsides. When it is desired to change the concaves, raise them up and drop them down a few times to jar out the dust and dirt which has become lodged between concave circles and ironsides, wedging them tight. With concaves in their lowest position, place a stick of wood, the tooth straightener, or anything else that may be handy, between concave and cylinder teeth and raise the concaves so that the teeth cannot pass. Then roll the cylinder backward, striking the concaves several times with the momentum of the cylinder if necessary, until they are jarred loose and come up with the cylinder, as it is rolled backward by hands) ihe thumb-screws mentioned above may be loosened if necessary. but if they be, it should be done on one side only so as not to disturb the adjustment. Caution. When the separator is belted to an engine one should make sure that the engineer has closed the throttle and opened the cylinder cocks before changing concaves, fixing teeth or otherwise handling the separator cylinder. The Beater. In threshing very heavy, tough grain, if the straw be inclined to wrap the beater or if it tends to follow the cylinder around too far, the beater may be raised by tak- ing out the blocks from between the beater boxes and the THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. 139 girt to which they are fastened on wood separators or by moving the girts to the upper holes on steel machines. There is also provision in the girts for moving the beater back to give more room between beater and cross-piece, but it is very seldom necessary to move it. The speed of the beater is four hundred revolutions per minute and as its bearings are provided with hard oil cups, a little attention will keep them in good running order. 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ERG! ci ede's s eee dS Feed-Water Heaters ....... 27 Figuring the Horse-Power.. 62 Finding the Dead Centers.. 72 IMre; i stantime, PIE) sae cie-. 8 10 Miri With COAL Aste site's 29 BT MS Wola sStTEUW: \ ce erct eters @ OL Miriney with Wood: vs... ess fie O Firing with Various Fuels. 29 Fish-Backs for Straw-Rack 221 Hittines for Boiler -/..... Hse oe Fittings, Attaching Brass.. 9 Fitting up an Engine.... 9 max. PAreshine. 5, < oo vs kelas 157 Flues, Cleaning ........ % sue FO DIT aia Se eles craves sa hou Folding the Feeder........ 173 MUPICCION=CIIECHY Hess. h20oe.8 aye 96 Friction-Clutch, Adjusting... 97 Friction-Clutch, Oiling..... 98 Fuels, Firing with Various. 29 G Sistsl sielavetelevoleversterentiy LO Cra SO=GIASSwiisichaie scl clever ob sievece LO GALS, StGaM ciccs . yAlb Startins Separator wee ose ets 2: Starting Traction-Gearing.. 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Waste’ Ime... .. 219 mimochy, Chreshine’: isis LoS rackin=S (Of: Teetiey. oss. nLaye: Traction-Parts, Starting the 11 Mraction-Gearins —Wica. si. <6 95 Tubes, Cleaning the.... $1 Tubes, Expanding and Bead- ATU weve secrete or su alters, Seno amet a araNehis 91 Tumbling-Rod, Reversing .. 113 Tumbling-Rod, Speed of ... 110 Trucks, Greasing) of. Jc ss 196 Turkey-Wheat, Threshing.. 154 V IVialviess |} CHECK 105 5 soatsis Vaal 25 Mave: Compound | oc.\c. ve a7 7 z Re) ; , i ’ cf ah f \ # a ; : : Le oe es. 0 ‘ j is i : re at) arn 8 at vo aan : Ms ‘ rr 7) ak Muh) a v