rs Copyright N° fal sf COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT: SE eI HOS Tare babs, Ne BI Hise ON OTE ME A NEG el NSE Seep SN ENS LIN wey Te SEE GRE SE SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL ES 2 ING Dingee-MacGregor Sixth Edition, Revised and Enlarged Published by J. 1. CASE THRESHING MACHINE CoO. INCORPORATED RACINE, WIS. 1911 Ed iil Bat aie SNARE, PPR SS a CS aR PN CAE aN DS OS AUN PIR BONS BCS AT ACRE Ey o,o RY RAE IED, ES M2 i MPS AO SID GTS BOR SD peels PP By ENA Res Se Vii ke Ep ME ONE Yl ce, ie eee te RN ATTS PR SATS sb ieee _ » 7 \ a COPYRIGHTED BY R. T. ROBINSON +2 Oo.azssae2 TEN gt ga 1899 And 1911 ae f PREFACE HE object of this book is to enable the owners and the operators of “Case” Threshing Machinery to become familiar with the construction and op- eration of their engines and machines. ‘The material has been gathered, not only from the author’s personal experi- ence, but also from notes taken during visits to the outfits of a large number of the best and most successful thresher- men in various localities. The aim has been to avoid the- orizing and only such statements are made as have been demonstrated practical, by actual field experience. The fact is appreciated that it is impossible to lay down specific rules for operating threshing machinery, under the ever varying conditions of grain, straw and weather, but it is hoped that the suggestions herein embodied will enable a man of ordinary intelligence to operate his machine suc- cessfully, and even to become an expert himself. It is the intention to continue revising it from time to time, and with this aim in view, suggestions and criticisms will be welcomed from threshermen, wherever located, to whom this little volume is respectfully dedicated. Chapter CONTENTS For Index, see page 249 PARTI. ENGINES Page Fitting Up and Starting a ‘New Hngine... +. .es. 9 Thies Hee Cia Wiatteriscticus cis ete selon ete toaiors Sie uenshencieneeenonepen site 15 Kirine with Various EHuels.......'. Si islieteelehenevetenene 33 Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings........ 43 Handling the, Hnisine. se. sie. ei. o's aes = eo) ee 59 Mer VOMIT PLO Pe eisiccieisus codes oats Rie Sielet JOD The. ValvenGea rn...) <5 iets ya! io le aise sie e eae, Seen eee 89 Ther WHOL! r i is ss 6: seca wine: oe oo saneial & 4. sh ehaneh open e eee 107 The». Traction® Gearing cre ....5.)0.isaye «she se 121 Water Tamkesiioi iiss clbisicis dels cic sche. shere sie eater 129 ELOTSoe) ;POWeTS oie 5 ait 6 elele oie ore ae Srelsve Shee eee 131 PART II. SEPARATORS Page Starting and Setting, avSeparator.... secs eeoee 147 The Cylinder, Concaves and Beater: acl seeeeee 153 The Straw-rack and ‘Conveyor. 1.2.) 22.2 oo 167 The Cleaning Aipparatuss..... J. cee eee 169 Threshing with a Regularly Equipped Separator .181 Threshing with a Specially Equipped Separator. 191 The Pulleys and Belting of a Separator......... 207 Lubrication and Care of the Separator........-.. 219 Beeding the, Separator’... j..200 6 see | reer 227 The Straw Stackers (..0/4./c: bc hyescs cisrete sient 333 The) Grain: Handlers . Hs’scscalsisis were bee eee 241 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Page lett) Side: Mlevation of Case; Traction), Hngine. i... 6... Top or Plan View of Case Traction Engine............ 14 MitMeminwineed: Bip ee NUD Dl] scare css entra gers om os) st orlep wre tel ca ene 16 SECHonalivaewe Gl ENPeCCTOR co aie hres ckelens louse cecal e alaneleiavenetensieas 22 SAetlON Ale Vales (Ot, IAT Se MPI). s.cclajat sis, 5, eos tyece.c\« yee alesis 25 SECtiONMOL (CHECK = Via@liViGe ais sce seus othe nije) opeehs ya oie) S094 0) oloy'ei css 28 Sectional. View, of Caste Shiell UMieatver acs sc ois. 6.0) siehs tre jeyeie 30 Sectional View of Steel Shell Heater ................. al Sectional View of Fire Box for Burning Straw ..... Po, to Sectional View: of: ire, Box for Burning, Oil) vocseie. a. 38 Sectional Views Of | LAeal? VC up seis sis to etens Soe uc 6. crouse o: monet 46 Oil) Punrip pACtaACH eS Gio wise stew cist aus ev ctevars ans bbe a lanshe SMa se bentates ope 47 Behe oe Lat Del @ el EO amepeve dane. bs acd Micesual c- miereiier eran calicl toma sire aie aars 48 Mihov G OM C@EIMS = COG ur strat ee Soto's, jai aliebedle beyeusl elo, wo ener aieliegen sens 51 WN COE OSS = ETCaUGl et tav ct toerclo oc bs creole ec shanletener sy Sha convene celenendyays a 53 Board used in Babbitting Cannon Bearing............. 56 Gannon Bearing in’) Position. for Babbitting. 70: 3.25. 4< 57 Side Hlevation of BM 2ine Proper. 655.6 ses 6 eis s acitels esr aes 65 Sectional Views Of Simple CylINGE. o6..5% Sicjae coe claeeiele 66 GOVeCENOL LOREM TMC ede citer oedove: crene epebiegurlentrs. evan lates ty elole setmpeuets a SECtion. OL GLOMELMOR (V, aIViCd vic.c 6.0% s vsierais wis onc0e sof ses ei eha ateeees 74 Hneines been: to Prony Brake. a skis. s aie 61050 a oe on 79 PEO fig es eed ares acetic lo 1s) esi wt a lere el wi case dss alle'e ayene sis orebeiiiepetns 80 Sectional View of Woolf Compounded Cylinder......... 8 4. Bacevoty © OM pPOUMACd! VAIN Go raiers re aveusitans: <1 ote jel aap eyeielele eles icle 85 Pipe to Steam Plugs, Compounded Valve .............-.- 86 @emter Heads PAGKINS 4 fc wpevel a ce acanes eileueten cheer arene eh el eve-oo Sieh s 87 TMHCeNVOO lL VerSe, Valve GEA factemicts so aisislle c's slenepatersisy axe. 6 90 TET ATAU OTL US Chicco) chanate aie eeeaneaaiers, o/-5 fa fonts sve sel ehepere Suche lagasausitano aie - 94 MP raini Ole CrOSS) EVCAG, csecdteg ie eile acl ois «of done yates «| ool Alomobenelans) « 95 MAUS O TRV EEL VG) SC TIM onic tote meron icacn ye emetehs, c) wt ckeqanenslcnened ousi ov 97 SectionaliiView OL mp OPMen: 22 tse cies) sieves sels wos oo si snercueit eae 106 Tnterniorm OLsSteanrmGace 2. ..x, cerettsteieie os a euspenebebs: seis sl scien se 108 Séction ofeSteam Gases Siphon. win « ~ = ocsevetetees sie clisite she fls\s 108 Sectionals Vile ws Obie OV BEV Cine: sae shoot oy stleeter «0 6) cuer eyohsenejte! el /e< 109 Pusible Plies in SCCtiOn. sive di x « acae/e ei felagers, sages anes a 0,8 yes 110 Cut Showing Cannon Bearing and Gearing............- HA EMrictiton, @luteh. of Case MSN 2%. <6 eccic.010 06 Gaie sieiicisiels «0% 123 Scetion of Huub. Portron- Ot .C lately se seis eee alee eons eileisee lec 124 The Differential Gear, Showing Springs..............-. LT Top View of Power with Sweeps Attached ............. 133 Sectional View of Iron Brame -Hlorse Power.........:: 143 Sectional View of Case Separator 60.6. ce wc ec wi eie 2 ate 146 Cut Showing Space Between Teeth ........ceeseeeecees 158 Right Side of Belt Separator with Feeder and Wind SEAN GITOT: he sats ee canoes alta toy ere sotto ceyavienie one arenes. aiere ale bieteters 164 Left ou of Separator with Feeder, Weigher and Wind GNC OTT pide is ce ie aay eee ete eee sei sa smeNed lots sue ntdettelantal aes Right Side of Geared Separator with Common Stacker. .166 Shoe, Showing Position of Sieve Rods................-- Wipes Sieves. (CVEdUCed) -. 2.5 Bsc see oes wisn Since eer ae sisi 4S 174 Sievesland SCreensh CEUTE SIZES as a ansrsiis er eliche evene sl ciel oie oyeiie) lle nies Spacing of Holes in Leather Belts............+--e2eee- 214 Belt: Lacing with Hnds: Turned Uperric. cs. e hs oe aie cies 214 Wacine for Four. Inch: eather Belt. owe eis 0's ape s)s(60/e, sie vs 215 Location of Holes for Lacing Canvas Belt.............. Pea lat’ Stitched. Canvas, Belt Lia Gini eres icc cia s.)'s oops © er slersielsieione 6 oie 218 Sectional’ View of Case, Deedery Gis sis cio so 2ie sh erele s hve 229 Sectional View of (Wind Stacker oink. cs sss eee oe cine © 235 Telescoping Device for Straw-Chute .......--+++--eee- 236 Head of GAISErE WW OTETIIET: soya cia ata ah aso aiteienal otatel euinieoney tela syetisl onesie ales 243 i, ‘ Me 7 DO ie ay Vy Lor Oe se -" ual cae ea te i] i a Dear ec oe : ‘ wt Ty, : if ‘ 7. 1) KORE ave : a “ s og if ih 4 4, a i 7 a it oe ay, us My a Mala Une am Me ee on Wife 7 Ree a ee ae oe at, eae val gi TE ee lien rik” n ay i) a Wi ee 7 : Via. v. ye) ae Ale ae pee Pe Beery. 4 ih errs 1 tee 2 aes Fy Mey hak © Nt ; We, el VA OOS a0 ee m, ear i ae ait i van wy 7 yaad " Bult me ae mil vera ‘. \ ap 1 ‘ i, ho r - a rt es 7 daa Mie ra hy My a in a r ¥ ra ‘1 . N th ny 7 aks i Mu Sa 51 eA Ke se « of hie ‘| socom ae ah! "aye: : , rv aoe hy rt ee ee , ni 1 re as i tin 1 : r a 1 Pe i one : ve art mi Vd nce a a Btn te ye ms Me D SE et Gee A Ap ee iy, ar © ya Ma en ee nt i eyes. craic? Us, ato ui oe ¢ Pa ¥ ee pha Vs W lie wi ‘iS : ity Une co, Heh: we mY me ms 3 a baw ¢) A bn ae Ppa y ot naa ry De 7 ey ae iy va A a Sai SURI LET TO ele nee vt fe : i hae . Da aa An J 7 he mo mHie we of : ‘ 7 a f a ‘Gy Y i i , a ; ie on ye LY ny a pe Ne ; 7 ‘ Da ai pF eran ke : , , nn Mit RP ae Ais - ee ah a ee mt oe Os une ae an oe oan a Pie. ae a Bt are a N ERS wt i By : im gH Goa i o ) ae ay; 4 (s i va re ay ! pall Wie bu J heen 3 Pa my - “3 hi a ‘- 7 ie yeh i ia : ia Abs be 7 i ne Sari “a i 7 i Nie - is ry a ORY i , ae ¥ . ry a € ee ook Ae a aa iy, ar Wiha gh Acne oir 1a aan oF YAO Ree ray : 1s VG OCD be Bi m1 ~ 2 OF ? aA nay ar pte f Ot ey is Paes 7 i> - : Le 4 a 7 f vy | he ay DA S' han | - i. iin oe ya ~ A iit Ls fe Ri oN es ne lye er ae oh at ss PART I. ENGINES Chapter I Fitting Up and Starting a New Engine....... er as EES RNG AVG GG W A UCi i aiaca ayers # athe wel sitet oreirs <5 ss aces of 2d, 5. Gye eNE! GR 15 eS PLES IP Wes WIth: Melt LOU Sie WSLS A fois cite arse 0 6. aqeiis! aaa te ore 33 a IV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings........ 43 i V0 bein lime thie We 1M eae oso heey dis ose cise oar etabetane Hg Saye Vi Tne Byncine Properes ose es +s 1 aes 6 ee be hea ee 65 * Vil Sine, Valve: Geahakok 5 oe cee epee ond aie aes sshd ales 89 ‘< WEEE y Pie BOL er af e.ce aust tates wis tae nes so oe Bhai e ateds 107 vad Exe he VEraction- 1G Carine ee cheetah aioe ort mereu ere raleiate 121 ¥ VM LST TATU ICS oP ig.ta, wcarerece’ ss. SANS levet Mota lane let Gialias (a Ae Ghansnanees te 129 7 DEL. EIOrse ise WOUs <2 da shes | foi taeinle oes oe Ce ae et ‘/ d pro ==9 010 j= q fa) 24 jay )\ \| si LN | 0 9 oO } Oo ooo Co C9 VV EV Se Eee 99999 C94 = s Se aS Ee i#fooooooOoO OOOO COCOCDCO900N LEFT SIDE ELEVATION OF CASE TRACTION ENGINE. EIGs a. CHAPTER I FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE WN packing an engine for shipment it 1s usual to remove the brass fittings to prevent their being stolen. These, together with the hose, governor belt and wrenches are packed in a box. The rod for the flue scraper (and the straw fork, for straw burning boiler), are placed in the boiler tubes and the hose and funnel for filling the boiler are placed in the smoke-box. The fire-box, ash- pan, tubes and smoke-box should be examined to insure the removal of all loose parts before the fire is started. Attaching Brass Fittings. In attaching the fittings to the boiler, care should be taken to screw them in tightly enough to prevent leaking. Brass expands more with heat than iron, therefore where a brass fitting screws into iron, the joint will be tighter when hot than when cold: conse- quently should there be a leakage it should be stopped by screwing the fitting ina little further when cold. In screw- ing a pipe into a valve or other fitting, the wrench should be used on the end of the valve into which the pipe is being screwed. When the wrench is put on the opposite end, the valve body is subjected to a twisting strain that is very liable to distort and ruin the seat. The blow-off valve 9 10 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL, THRESHING and other valves about the engine should be so attached that the pressure will be on the under side of the valve seat. ‘Then the packing around the valve stem can leak only when the valve is open, and may be renewed under pressure at any time the valve is shut. A valve when cold should not be too tightly closed, as expansion due to heat- ing will force the valve so hard against its seat as to injure it. Starting the Fire. When the fittings are all in place, fill the boiler with water, by means of the funnel, until the glass gage shows about an inch and one-half of water. This is on the assumption that the boiler is level, and if not, allowance should be made accordingly. The water will run in faster if one of the gage-cocks, the blower or the whistle be opened to allow the air to escape. When coal is to be used as fuel, wood (if available) should be used to start the fire, the grates being kept well covered until steam begins to show on the gage. If wood cannot be obtained for starting the fire, straw may be substituted. Then, if it be desired to hasten the rise of steam, the blower may be started and coal thrown onto the fire. Oiling the Engine. While waiting for steam, the grease may be removed from the bright work with rags or cotton waste, saturated with benzine or kerosene. The oil holes and cups are usually filled with grease at the factory to keep out cinders and dirt during shipment of the engine. This grease should be removed and the oil holes care- FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE iL! fully cleaned so that the oil may reach the place it is in- tended to lubricate. All the bearings should be oiled, the oil cups being filled with good machine oil or cylinder oil. Where the oil box is large enough, it should be filled with a little wool or cotton waste in order to keep out the dirt, and to retain the oil. Good cylinder oil must be used in the lubricator or oil pump. It is a good plan in start- ing a new engine, or one that has been idle for some time, to lubricate all bearings at first with a mixture of equal parts of kerosene and machine oil. The engine may be then run a few minutes and afterwards lubricated with un- thinned oil, but it should not be put to work until this has been done. Starting the Engine Proper. When the gage shows about forty pounds of steam, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the engine started, the throttle being opened gradually so that the water which has condensed and col- lected in the cylinder may have a chance to escape. The reverse lever should be handled as explained elsewhere in this book. If the engine does not start when the throttle is opened, possibly the governor stem has been screwed down sufficiently to shut off the steam. This sometimes occurs in transportation. As soon as the engine is run- ning, care should be taken to see that the oil-pump or lub- ricator is started properly. The bearings should be felt of to determine any tendency to heat. In starting the engine, it must be borne in mind that 12 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the water in the boiler is sufficient for only a few minutes and the pump or injector must be started before the water gets low in the boiler. The steam pressure should now be raised to the blow- ing-off point (say 130, 140, or 160 pounds), to try the pop or safety valve. If it does not open at this pressure, pulling the lever will probably start it. If not, it is out of adjustment and should be re-set, as explained elsewhere in this book. Starting the Traction Parts. When the engine has been run a sufficient time to insure everything being in good running order (if it be a traction engine), preparations may be made for a trip on the road. To do this, the trun- nion-ring of the friction-clutch should be oiled and the shoes adjusted to properly engage the rim of the fly-wheel. . Any paint that may be on the long hub of the arm should be scraped off to allow the free movement of the ring, which slides thereon, as the clutch is thrown in or out of engage- ment. All the traction gearing should now be lubricated, and a quantity of oil poured into the cannon-bearings. Next the stud of the intermediate gear, the bevel pinions of the differential gear, and the bearings of the steering- roller and hand-wheel shaft should be oiled. ‘The steer- ing-chains should be properly adjusted as elsewhere ex- plained. Caution. Anew engine should have close attention for the first few days until the bearings become smooth. The FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE 13 engine has been run in the testing-room at the factory, and it is probable that the bearings are properly adjusted. However, they should be felt of at short intervals, and should one of them heat to any extent, it will be best to loosen it a little. The heating may be caused by grit. A fast speed should not be attempted the first two or three trips on the road, but the engine should be allowed to run below its normal speed until bearings are smooth and the operator becomes accustomed to handling the engine. In order to keep the valve and cylinder well lubricated, during the first few days it is necessary to use three or four pints of cylinder oil in ten hours, the quantity depending on the size of engine. Afterwards the amount may be lessened, but it is essential that cylinder oil be fed continually. “ANION NOILOVYL ASVD AO MAIA NVId YO dOL ‘Zz ‘DIA 3 yOvs 3 Q YaTIOg PLATFORM A c = 5 | © i e———anry ‘es no 0 Rs —— a - ——= he Z2 SM DBI | =| =| ——— —— at : | | sy eal TTT core CU LIES TTENTT UT Fle | \ \A A. \ \\ ‘Sav as \ \ CHAPTER II THE FEED WATER HE feed water demands the constant watchfuiness of the engineer. It is his first and most important duty to know that there is sufficient water in the boiler at all times. If he relaxes his attention to it for even a short interval, disastrous results are likely to follow. A modern traction engine is usually fitted with two separate and independent means of feeding water to the boiler. By this arrangement, if the boiler feeder in use be disabled at any time, the other may be put to work without delay. These feeders should receive close attention and each be in condition to work at a moment’s notice. If either fails to work properly at any time, it should be repaired immediately. It is essential to use the cleanest water obtainable, as dirty water always causes trouble. It is a good plan to strain the water as it passes into the mounted tank, by placing a cotton grain sack in the hole so that it extends to the bottom of the tank. For this purpose a cheap sack of coarse open texture is the best. The mouth of the bag can be turned over the rim around the hole and tied with a string or strap, but a better way is to have a hoop that just fits over the bag. It is important to see ra 15 16 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING that the suction hose and connections are free from leaks. The pipe nipples, which screw into the boiler at the point at which the feed water enters, should be examined oc- casionally, for with some waters they “lime-up” in a remarkably short time. This accumulation of lime is shown in the accom- panying cut, which is reproduced from a pipe nipple taken from a FIG. 3. LIME IN FEED traction engine. When ei eS necessary to shut down from lack of water, it should be done while the glass shows at least half an inch, as the water-level will fall that much when the engine is stopped, thereby allowing the water in the boiler to settle. What to do when water does not show in glass. If you find that the water has been allowed to get below the glass gage and lower gage cock, leaving the crown-sheet bare, when the engine has been standing still for a time, bank the fire and leave the engine alone until it cools. If it be working when you discover the water is out of the glass, the thing to do is, get the front end of the engine up at once. Back the traction wheels into ditch or furrow, run the front wheels up hill or onto a wood or coal pile, or use any means to get the front of the boiler high. If in soft ground there may be time to dig holes for the traction wheels, but be quick about it. In the meantime keep the engine moving THE FEED WATER i? in order to slosh the water over the crown-sheet. When you have the front end of the engine up, if water shows in the glass, start the injector and let it run until the boiler is filled to its normal level. If you are unable to get the engine in such a position that the water shows in the glass, cover the fire with a layer of ashes or earth three or four inches thick. Do not attempt to pull it out, as stirring it up creates intense heat. Having banked the fire, leave the engine alone until the steam goes down. By doing this, you have probably prevented the fusible plug from melt- ing, or, what is vastly more serious, burning the crown- sheet. A crown-sheet that has been burnt is greatly weakened, probably “bagged’’ or warped, and the stay- bolts so strained at their threads that it is impossible to keep them from leaking. The majority of explosions of boilers of the locomotive type are caused by low water and the consequent burning of the crown-sheet. One ex- perience with low water should be a sufficient lesson for all time. Since so much depends upon having sufficient water in the boiler, the gage-cocks and water-glass, which indicate the amount of water, should be kept in first-class order. The Gage-Cocks. 'These cocks are a more reliable means of indicating the amount of water in the boiler than the water-glass, although not so convenient. The gage- cocks, or “‘try-cocks,” as they are sometimes called, should be used often enough to prevent them from becoming filled 2 . 18 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING with lime and should always be in working order. When- ever opened, the steam should be allowed to blow through a sufficient time to clean them. They should then be closed moderately tight, and then, if they leak, they should be opened again to allow any dirt or scale that may have lodged on the seat to blow out. It is not well to force a gage-cock or other valve shut to stop it from leaking, for probably it is leaking because a bit of scale is preventing the valve from “seating.” The forcing simply presses this bit of scale or other foreign matter into the seat and spoils the contact surfaces so the valve will continue to leak until reground. Gage-cocks and other valves on the engine should not be closed very tightly when cold, for when heated, the expansion of the metal will press the valve so tightly against its seat as to injure it. The Water-Gage. ‘The water-gage should be blown out once each day, to clean the glass and prevent the upper and lower connections from getting filled with lime or sediment. To blow out the lower connection, which is the more liable to become clogged, open pet cock and close up- per valve. Then close lower valve and open upper one, which will blow steam through the upper connection and also the glass, thereby cleaning it. On returning to the engine in the morning, or after dinner, be sure that no one has closed the valves of the water-gage during your ab- serice. If this has been done, the glass might show plenty of water, while in reality, the water in the boiler has been THE FEED WATER 19 reduced to a low level by blowing off or by some other cause. A stoppage in the valves, or connections of the water gage, when the engine is running, can be detected by the water, which will appear quite still instead of mov- ing a little, because of the motion of the engine. The water glass should be kept clean, even if the other parts of the engine be neglected in this respect. A dirty glass indicates that the engineer is careless about one of his most important duties. The glass can be cleaned at any time by wiping the outside and blowing steam through the inside. It is only necessary, in wiping, to see that it 1s not scratched by sand, metal or the like, for scratches are likely to cause it to break. An old glass with a coating on the inside that steam will not blow out, may be cleaned by removing it from the connections and running a piece of waste or cloth through it with a stick. Touching a glass on the inside with a piece of metal of any kind is almost sure to scratch it so that it will crack when the steam is turned on. Packing the Water-Glass. ‘The best method of pack- ing the water glass is by means of the rubber gaskets made for the purpose. These may be purchased for a few cents. Candle wicking, hemp or asbestos is sometimes used, but any one of these packings is liable to become displaced and cause trouble. The author has in mind a case in which a crown sheet was badly burnt because of the glass not show- ing the true level of the water in the boiler. The candle 20 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING wicking, with which it was packed, was forced, by the tightening of the packing-nut, over the lower end of the class, practically shutting off the water. Broken Water-Glass. In case the water glass breaks when the boiler is under pressure, shut both valves to stop the escape of steam and water. The engine can be run by gage-cocks until a new glass may be obtained. If anew glass be at hand, it may be put in at once, but care should be taken to heat it gradually, for if the steam be turned on suddenly, it will break. Injectors. The injector has, of late years, reached such a state of perfection as to make it the most conven- ient of all the types of boiler feeders. Although economi- cal in itself, it does not equal, in ultimate economy, a pump used in connection with a heater. The question naturally arises: if it be economy to use a heater in connection with the pump, why not with the injector as well? Were the feed water from the injector piped through the heater, but little would be gained thereby, because the injector delivers water so hot, that it would absorb but little additional heat during its passage through the heater. Consequently, the pump, with heater, is the more economical because it util- izes heat from the engine exhaust (which would otherwise be wasted), to heat the water, while the injector heats it by means of live steam taken from the boiler. It is not usual, therefore, to pipe the feed water from an injector through a heater. THE FEED WATER ay To Start the “Penberthy’ Injector. With pressure under sixty-five pounds, the valve in the suction pipe should be opened one turn, the steam valve may then be opened wide. The injector will probably start off at once, but should water run from the overflow, the suction valve should be slowly throttled until it “picks up.” If hot steam and water issue from the overflow, the suction should be opened wider. A little practice will enable one to set the valve at any pressure, so that it 1s simply necessary to turn on the steam to start the injector. Ata pressure of sixty- five pounds or over, the water supply valve may be opened wide, but it is better partly to close it, as the injector will deliver hotter water when the supply is throttled. The in- jector must be regulated by the suction valve, and not by attempting to regulate it by the steam valve. The “Pen- berthy” admits of considerable steam variation. At thir- ty-five pounds steam pressure, the valve in suction may be opened as wide as it will stand and steam can rise to over one hundred pounds without further adjusting. What to do when the Injector Fails to Work. See that the suction hose and connections are tight. The delivery pipe may be “‘limed up” where it enters the boiler. A leaky check valve will keep the injector so hot as to prevent it from “picking up” water. Dirt may be lodged in the chamber where jets “R” and “S” meet, or in the jet “Y,” the drill holes or the main passage way. The jets may be coated with lime, and if so, they should be 22 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING soaked in a solution composed of one part of muriatic acid and ten parts of water. Occasionally soak the whole injector. Do not expect an injector to work well, espe- cially at high pressure, if the tank be full of dirt and rubbish. Sometimes an injector will work well for a long time, and then begin Seti to drizzle at the overflow j under the same pressure at Z ae a which it once worked well. NVZ This indicates that the passage-ways in jets are either worn or are con- tracted with lime. If re- moving the lime does not remedy the trouble, the overflow valve may leak. To regrind it, remove cap “Z and spread /a ‘ittle flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, between the FIG. 4. SECTIONAL VIEW OF valve “‘P” and its seat. INJECTOR. Then with a screw driver, turn valve “P” back and forth, which will grind it to a seat. If the injector be not improved, it is safe to conclude that some of the jets are worn and must be renewed. These are sold separately, and are listed in the thresherman’s Supply Catalogs. If in doubt as to which jet is at fault, THE FEED WATER 22 procure all of them and try one after another until the injector works properly. Any unused jets that have not been inserted may be returned. Independent Pumps. This is the name given to pumps for feeding a boiler, which are operated independently of the engine. They are, in fact, small engines in themselves, connected directly to double-acting pump plungers. An independent pump can be run whether the engine is run- ning or not, but as the heater is effective only when the en- gine is running, it is best, on boilers having both pump and injector, to use the injector when the engine is not running. The Marsh pump has an exhaust valve for turning the ex- haust of the pump in with the feed water. This, of course, heats the feed water and renders the pump more economi- cal. If, for any reason, it is desired to use the pump when the engine is not running, the exhaust should be turned in, in order to heat the water before it enters the boiler. At other times, however, we advise engineers to allow the pump to exhaust into the air. The most of the trouble with.these pumps is due to insufficient lubrication, and the successful operators use plenty of cylinder oil. If the ex- haust be turned in at all times, this cylinder oil is carried into the boiler where it accumulates, in some cases in suf- ficient quantities to render it dangerous to the plates of the boiler. Consequently, for this reason and also because the pump is more easily “kept up” when exhausting in the air, we do not advise turning the exhaust into the feed water. 24 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Starting the “Marsh” Pump. Before attaching the lubricator, it is a good plan to pour some cylinder oil into the pipe. ‘To start the pump, first see that the valve in the feed pipe, between the check valve and the boiler, is open, and that the exhaust lever is thrown towards the steam end of the pump. The steam may now be turned on, and if the piston rod does not move back and forth, tap the starter-pins very lightly. It is well to run the pump with- out water until thoroughly oiled, but as soon as it is run- ning smoothly, the suction-hose end may be submerged. Opening the cock with the thread for attaching the sprink- ling hose or the small air-cock in the water chamber will aid the pump in “picking up” water. When the Pump Will Not Start. 1. If the pump does not start when steam is turned on, push the starter- pins alternately, to see if the valve moves easily back and forth. If the valve sticks, do not hammer the starter-pins or force them too hard, but remove the valve in order to locate the trouble. This is done by removing the steam chest heads through which the starter-pins pass, and un- screwing the valve, which is done by holding one end while unscrewing the other, by means of the two special socket wrenches furnished for the purpose. If the pump has been idle for a time, the valve may be rusty or gummy, in which case it should be cleaned with kerosene oil. Before replacing the caps, push the valve back and forth as far as it will go and see that it is perfectly free. Also see that THE FEED WATER 25 the starter-pins are free and have not become loosened or stuck by tight packing. Pull them out as far as they will go. 2. The steam pipe may be obstructed so that the pump does not receive a sufficient supply of steam. 3. Remove the cylinder heads and see that the piston moves freely, and that the nut on the water end of the piston rod is properly tightened. This nut may have worked partly - ees SSS : g : oh SUCTION PIPE y, jp 1 )i b; FIG. 5. SECTIONAL VIEW OF MARSH PUMP. or entirely off, thus preventing a complete stroke. 4. Re- move the steam chest and see that the small “trip” holes near the steam chest and the corresponding holes in the steam cylinder are open. If the pump has been idle for a 26 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING time, these holes are liable to have become stopped with rust. Before replacing the steam chest, see that the pack- ing is in good order. 5. If the pump has been in use some time, or has not been sufficiently oiled, the valve may have become worn and leaky. This is not so likely to oc- cur on the “‘C” size, as on the smaller pumps. When it does happen, the remedy is a new valve and steam chest. When the Pump will not Lift Water. If the pump runs all right when steam is turned on, but will not “pick up” water, opening the drain cock in the boiler feed pipe will relieve the pressure on the discharge valves. 1. See that the suction hose and its connections are free from leaks and that the screen is not covered with rags, waste, leaves or the like. If this hose has been in use for some time, see that it is sufficiently firm not to collapse or flatten, and that its rubber lining has not become loosened so as to choke or stop the water supply. 2. Remove the air chamber and look for dirt under the water valves. 3. If the pump has been in use for a time the water-piston packing may leak. Where dirty water is used, this packing must be frequently renewed. Directions for re-packing are given below. When the Pump almost stops after lifting water, the trouble is in the delivery or feed pipe. This may be proved by opening the cock in this pipe which will relieve the pres- sure and allow the pump to run faster. Possibly the angle valve near the boiler has been left closed. The check valve THE FEED WATER 27 in the feed pipe should be examined, for which purpose the valve, between it and the boiler, can be closed. If nothing be found, the stem should be removed from the valve or the plug removed from the tee so as to expose the opening through the pipe nipple which enters the boiler; probably this pipe will be found nearly filled with lime at the point at which it enters the boiler as shown in Fig. 3, on page 16. This may be cleaned by driving a bolt into it. Of course, the angle valve stem or plug can only be removed when the boiler is cold. Packing the Pump. ‘The successful operation of this pump depends very much upon the manner in which the water piston and other parts are packed. In renewing the piston packing, do not compress it too much. See that it is of sufficient thickness to a little more than fill the space between the inner and outer follower heads. This will allow the packing to be compressed slightly before the fol- lower heads are forced together. On the other hand, if the space between the follower heads be not completely filled, leakage will result. When properly packed, the pis- ton may be readily moved by hand. The nut on the end of the piston rod should be tightened to bring the follower to place. The packing between the steam chest and the cylinder should be made of heavy manilla paper or light rubber, and must be patterned from the planed surface top of the steam cylinder (not the lower part of the chest), and all holes must be carefully duplicated, so that the drilled 28 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING holes at each end are wholly unobstructed at their points of register with the corresponding holes in the chest. The packing under the valve plate must be patterned from the faced top of water cylinder, and the packing over the valve plate from the bottom face of the air chamber. The steam cylinder head must not be packed with anything thicker than heavy paper or the thinnest rubber. Ifa thick gasket be used, the piston will overrun the ports, and its operation be interfered with. Check-Valves. A check-valve allows the water or other fluid to flow in one direction, by the valve rising from its seat, but when water attempts to “back up,” or flow in the opposite direction, the valve prevents this by closing. With any \style of boiler-feeder, a check-valve is placed in the feed-pipe, and usually near the boiler. Between the check-valve and boiler is placed a globe or an- gle valve which may be closed, allowing the check valve to be opened when the boiler is under steam pressure. If the pump or injector shows, by heat or other indications, that water and steam are “backing up” through the feed pipes from the boiler, it indicates that the check-valve is not acting. When the FIG. 6. SECTION OF CHECK VALVE. THE FEED WATER 29 valve “‘sticks”’ and will not close, a very slight tap may cause it to “seat,’’ but if this does not, close the valve be- tween it and boiler, then take off the cap and remove dirt or scale that may be preventing it from closing tightly. Ii no foreign matter be found, examine the valve and seat to determine if the contact surfaces be perfect. If scale be found adhering to either, it should be removed, but if it be “pitted,” regrinding is necessary. Although a slight tap will often cause a check-valve to seat, it is poor practice to constantly or violently hammer the valve, as the seat may be distorted, and the entire valve ruined thereby. Many valves are also distorted and ruined because a wrench has been used on one end while screwing a pipe into the other. Many valves are burst during cold weather by frost. To prevent this, the angle valve near boiler must be closed and the check-valve and pipe drained. Regrinding Check-Valves. Many engineers discard leaky valves as worthless, in ignorance of the ease with which they may be re-ground. The swing check is easily re-ground without disconnecting it from the pipe. To re- grind, unscrew angle plug, put a little flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, on the bottom of valve and turn it back and forth with a screw driver until the contact surfaces are perfect. Feed-Water Heaters. A feed-water heater heats the feed water delivered by the pump, by passing it over sur- faces heated with exhaust steam from the engine. In this 30 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING way, the feed water carries into the boiler the heat it has absorbed from the exhaust steam, which would otherwise be wasted. ‘The interior of the “‘Case”’ heater with cast shell is shown in section in Fig. 7. Tubes (three or more in number), are tightly calked in the inner heads and inner pipes pass through the tubes, their ends being held in place by sockets cast on the outer heads. These heads are se- cured by four stud bolts, which screw into the heater body, EXHAUST —4 WATER TO TER H 5 N 7 E IME HE a STEAM em CQHEATER EG IN el HEATER SHELL 3 S LLL LILLE UMMMLDULULLLLUO LULL LLU ULL LLU AAG Lg Wille, Wy LY ——_ = gn [YT NSZTO STACK is = =a és — ouren Cee ae aa VLE): EEE. EE EL TLE EEE TR VU, j hes DRAIN INNER HEAD’ ag} 57 HOT WATER DRAIN I 4] ‘ Be TO BOILER OUTER HEAD DRAIN FIG. 7. SECTIONAL VIEW OF “CASE” CAST-SHELL HEATER. and are made tight by gaskets. The exhaust from the en- gine enters the heater from the cylinder, surrounding the tubes, and passing out to the smoke stack at the opposite end as shown. ‘The water from the pump enters through the head at the right and passes out at the other end into the pipe leading to the boiler. In going through the heater, the water is obliged to pass through the annular spaces formed by the inside of tubes and the outside of pipes, in films about one-eighth of an inch thick. Two cocks are screwed into the bottom of the heater, one of which drains the steam space and the other the THE FEED WATER on water space. The steam space may be drained before starting the engine, in order to prevent water from being thrown from the smoke-stack. Both water and steam space must be drained in cold weather, to prevent freezing. The “Case” steel-shell feed-water heater, as shown in Fig. 8, is constructed in the same manner as a small tubu- lar boiler. The tubes are expanded in the flanged heads at each end of heater. The exhaust inlet and outlet elbows are clamped tight against the ends of heater by a long bolt HEATER SHELL HOT WATER TO BOILER “DRAIN FIG. 8 SECTIONAL VIEW OF “CASE” STEEL-SHELL HEATER. (or bolts) passing from one to the other. The feed water surrounds the tubes and the exhaust steam passes through them. The hot water is discharged to the boiler on the un- der side of heater, but it is taken from the top, the water passing behind an annular flanged plate that leads it to the outlet. Only the pressure of exhaust steam is brought to bear against the packing joints. This form of heater has proved to be very efficient, and the interior is readily acces- sible by removing the exhaust inlet and outlet elbows. a2 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Testing and Repairing the Heater. lf you suspect that the heater leaks, on engines with independent pumps, it may be tested as follows: First drain the exhaust space by opening the cock; then start the pump, but let the engine stand still. If water continues to issue from this cock, it shows that the heater leaks. Repairs are easily made by removing the heads. The tubes in either style of heater may be tightened or renewed if necessary, in exactly the same manner as those in the boiler. CHAPTER EE FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUELS O maintain a uniform steam pressure with any kind of fuel, the draft should be sufficient and the fire should be supplied with air from below. No cold air should be allowed to get to the tubes except by passing through live coals that may ignite fresh fuel. The cone screen in the stack should be straight and the exhaust noz- zle should be of the proper size and pointed straight with the stack. This latter is of great importance. The ash pan must not be allowed to fill up, or warped and melted grates are sure to result. There is no excuse for allowing the ash pan to fill up, and a good engineer never permits it to do so. With coal, wood or oil, the firing is done by the engineer, but with straw for fuel, it is usual to have an extra man or boy for this purpose. How to Fire with Coal. Keep the grates well covered, but with as thin a fire as possible. Do not throw in large lumps of coal or put in very much at atime. A thin fire lightly and frequently renewed is the most economical. The engine should be allowed to blow off once a day to see if the steam gage and pop valve agree, but if the pop valve 3 33 34 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING frequently opens, it is an indication that the fireman is either careless or unable to control his fire. ig The best way to check the rise of steam is to start the injector, but if the boiler be too full, the damper may be closed. Another way is to open the fire door about an inch, leaving the damper open, but the door should never be held open more than this amount. This will do no harm to tubes or boiler, but while the engine is running the door should never be opened when the damper is closed. When the engine is to be shut down for any length of time ~ the smoke-box door may be opened to check the fire. Some grades of coal will form clinkers that cover the grates and shut off the air supply. These must be kept out by removing through the fire door, but do not use the poker when it can be avoided, or keep the door open longer than is necessary, since stirring the fire only makes matters worse. When troubled with clinkers, make it a point to clean the fire at noon or at any time the engine may be stopped. The tubes should be cleaned at least once a day. One or two of the bricks for straw burners can be used to advantage in burning coal. They make better combus- tion with poor coal, render the fire easier to control and by maintaining a more uniform heat in the fire-box, are easier on the boiler. How to Fire with Wood. ‘The manner of firing with wood depends entirely upon the fuel, and must be learned by experience. When the wood is soft, or the sticks small \ FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUELS 35 or crooked, it will be necessary to lay the pieces as com- pactly as possible, and keep the fire-box full all the time. Straight, heavy sticks of hardwood, on the other hand, must be placed so that the flames can pass freely between them. The rear draft door should be opened wide and the front one opened only enough to admit sufficient air. See that the front end of the grates (next to the tube sheet) 1s kept well covered. If cold air be allowed to pass through to the tubes at this point, the draft will be destroyed. To get satisfactory results, it is often necessary to cover the front end of the grates, for a space of eight inches, with a “dead-plate.” A wood fire requires an occasional leveling, but as with coal it is a good plan not to use the poker more than is absolutely necessary. In leveling do not disturb the hot coals on the grates. In firing with wood it is ad- visable to keep the screen in the smoke-stack down, as there is more danger of throwing sparks with wood than with coal. How to Fire with Straw. At one time, the return- flue type of boiler was considered the only successful one for straw, but these are now almost obsolete and modern straw burning engines are all of the direct flue type. The Case straw burners are the same as the coal burners, except that they are fitted with straw grates, dead-plates, a brick arch and a straw chute and the boiler islagged. (See Fig. 9g.) Any Case engine, except the eighteen and thirty horse-power, can be made to burn straw by making these changes. 36 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING When firing with straw, keep the chute full all the time, so that no cold air can get in on top of the fire. Take small forkfuls and let each bunch of straw push the preced- ing one into the fire. Occasionally turn the fork over and run it in below the straw in the chute to break down and HAND HOLE = PISTON ROD, }—* Cr FIG. 15. THE CROSS-HEAD. the upper shoe and guide, and when engine runs “over,” as on the road, the wear is nearly all on the lower shoe and guide. Usually the wear being nearly the same on both, they should be set out equally. The wear is slightly greater at crank end of guides and if the shoes are adjusted so cross-head is free at cylinder end, it will not be too tight at the other end. The Eccentric Strap is tightened by removing the paper liners. When these are all removed and the halves come together, they should be taken to a machine shop and a little planed off. The eccentric-strap must be well lubri- cated at all times, preferably with cylinder oil. The eccen- tric rod brasses and valve-rod brasses on engines having 54 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING rocker-arms are taken up by driving down the wedges or keys. The Main Bearings are adjusted by removing paper liners. Take out only a little at a time. If one of the bearings heats and does not cool when the nuts are loos- ened, remove the cap and clean out any grit or dirt that may be found. If the babbitt be rough and torn up, it should be scraped smooth. It is well to “relieve” the main bearings a little at their edges, as explained for the con- necting-rod brasses. When paper liners have all been re- moved, and the shaft has lost motion, the boxes will require re-babbitting. Babbitting Main Frame Bearing. No one but a good mechanic skilled in this work should undertake to babbitt the main bearings. The difficulty lies in obtaining the alignment, which must be perfect, before the babbitt is poured. The babbitt should be of the best quality. First, remove the cylinder-head, piston and piston-rod, connecting-rod and cross-head. Run a line (a fine wire is best) through the piston-rod stuffing-box and fasten it by any convenient means to a point in the rear of the crank- disc and to a point in front of the cylinder. In the latter case, a piece of wood may be bolted to the cylinder by one of the stud-bolts which hold the cylinder head in place. With a pair of inside calipers, the distance from the line should be carefully measured at both ends of the cylinder, at the stuffing-box and at the guides to insure its being exactly central with the cylinder in all directions. Meas- LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 55 urements may now be made from the line to the crank- disc and pin, in order to determine how much, if any, the shaft has been out of line. By doing this before the old babbitt is disturbed, you will be able to tell later just how much the shaft must be moved in order to correct the alignment. When this has been done, the shaft must be taken out and the old babbitt removed from the box and all grease and dirt or metal, etc., cleaned from it. When the box is properly cleaned, replace the shaft, letting the disc end rest on blocks, one or two of which should be wedge-shape so that the shaft may conveniently be raised or lowered. The shaft should now be brought to the proper height so that its center is exactly on a level with the line. Now, by carefully measuring to the line, the shaft should be moved forward or rearward until the front and rear portions of the crank-disc rim are exactly the same distance from the line. When this is accomplished, the crank-shaft will be at right angles to the bore of the cylin- der and the shaft will be in its proper position “fore and aft.” The shaft should now be moved along its axis until the crank-pin is divided into two equal parts by the line. All of the measurements should be made very carefully and accurately, and verified two or three times. The bab- bitt should be of the best quality—Case grade “A”’ being suitable. Both halves of the bearing can be run at the same time, or the halves run separately as preferred. It is usually best to pour the lower half first. The lower edge must be 56 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING made tight with a piece of sheet-iron touching the shaft. This may be held by means of the bolts which secure the cap. Putty should then be used to make the ends and all, tight against leakage, but the babbitt must be allowed to run against the hub of the disc in order that end-play of the shaft may be prevented. An opening in the form of a funnel of putty should be made at each end of the box at the top. The babbitt may be poured through the larger of these while the one at the other end of the box allows the air to escape. After the lower-half and cap of bearing have been poured, the shaft should be removed so that the babbitt may be examined, oil-holes opened, oil-grooves cut and the babbitt scraped if necessary to properly fit the shaft. Itis usually best to relieve the bearing as explained elsewhere. To Babbitt Upper Cannon Bearing. Jack up right- hand side of boiler, and block under tank or platform frame. _ Remove right-hand traction- wheel; take pin out of collar and pull off right-hand counter-shaft pinion; then the differential spur-gear and cen- ter-wheel. Drive out key and remove ric. 10. the left-hand counter-shaft pinion. Pull BOARD “A.” out the counter-shaft, and remove can- non-bearing after slipping off links. Chip out all old babbitt, and remove any grease or grit that may adhere to the casting. Fill the key-way in the LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 57 shaft with putty or clay and wrap the shaft at the bearings with two or three thicknesses of common newspaper smeared with cylinder oil. ia oF nN Cover the outside of the paper Ae with a good thick coating of “eat cylinder oil to prevent the bab- bitt from clinging to the shaft. Make two boards similar to Fig. 16 to hold the shaft central in bearing while babbitting. The holes in the boards are made the size of the shaft and the three blocks are nailed to the board with ends on a circle to fit the outside turned part of the can- non-bearing. Put one board “A” on shaft next to bevel-gear ; then put bearing on shaft, and themother board A”) on the other end. Drive wooden plugs through oil-holes until they strike shaft. Set shaft and all on end as shown in Fig. 17. Make cup “B” of putty or clay pura at opening in side of casting to Be petra ror aRne Tae : pour babbitt in; also fill all around ends at “C” with putty or clay to keep babbitt from running out. Heat babbitt just hot enough to run freely, and pour in ea 58 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING cup “B.” Turn shaft and bearing end for end and repeat the operation as above. Remove the shaft; chip oil-grooves in upper side of bearing and see that oil-holes are open. The bearing is now ready to put in place on the engine again. i q290000000000 of dae Nea (000 0000000900000) BEQGGQG008 00060 fololoxol ololohoLololeolelelatsloleleloleloelelolelole.e.: Oo = ° eo) 8 $P.000.009990009099000909909990200089909990C099 {ele} 09.000900966.9000. 290 9GLL2009SQ9NLLNLE (elolsterereKereie:: y %) AN — q = PQ a = i ———= ase we cent ean ere ee me ee CHAP EER HANDLING THE ENGINE 7% EFORE starting the engine always see that the cyl- & ® inder cocks are open. ‘Then if the crank pin be in the right position (that is, past the dead center in the direction in which the engine is to run), open the throt- tle just enough so the crank pin will pass the next center. After a few revolutions, gradually increase the throttle opening until the governor controls the speed. If the crank pin be not in the right position to start, take the throttle-lever in one hand and the reverse lever in the other. Admit a little steam into the cylinder, reverse, and then before the engine can pass that center throw the reverse lever back, and the engine will start. Occasionally an engine will stop on the exact dead-center, and when this occurs it is necessary to turn it off by taking hold of the fly-wheel. If on the road, releasing the friction clutch will generally allow the engine to start because the strain on the gearing is released. Never start the engine suddenly. ‘Take sufficient time to allow the water in the cylinder to escape through the cylinder-cocks instead of forcing it through the exhaust. If the engine be working in the belt, a sudden start is very 59 60 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING liable to throw off the main belt; if traveling, a sudden start throws unnecessary strain on the gearing and the connections between the engine and its load. When the engine has been running a sufficient time to allow any water that may be in the cylinder to escape, cylinder-cocks may be closed. When the engine is at work leave the throttle wide open, allowing the governor to control the speed. An engine provided with a friction clutch 1s much easier handled when traveling than one without, but the clutch is seldom used by a good engineer. . If used con- tinually it requires attention to keep it adjusted. Steering. Anengine cannot be properly guided unless the steering-chains are correctly adjusted. If too tight they cause the steering-wheel to turn hard, while if too loose, the guiding is much more difficult and the control uncertain. ‘The chains are properly adjusted when one turn of the steering-wheel takes up the slack. A weak steering-chain is dangerous and if one has been broken by running into something, or from any other cause, it should not be allowed to go indefinitely, temporarily repaired with a bolt or piece of wire, but should be fixed so that it is as strong as ever. In guiding an engine many make the mistake of turn- ing the steering-wheel too much. It is well to remember that a turn in one direction always means a turn in the op- posite direction. ‘Theoretically, the engine would follow HANDLING THE ENGINE 61 a smooth straight road without turning the wheel at all, but in practice it is always necessary to turn ita little. It is important to keep your eye on the front wheels of the engine. Setting the Engine. A little practice 1s necessary to enable the operator to quickly line and set the engine, but this is acquired by most men in time. On a calm day the engine and the separator should be “dead in line,” that is, in such a position that a line drawn through the edges of the fly-wheel rim would pass through the edge of the sep- arator cylinder-pulley rim on the same side, and a line drawn through the edges of the cylinder-pulley rim would pass through the edge of the fly-wheel rim on the same side. When threshing on a windy day, the drive belt should be crossed so the slack side will be toward the direction from which the wind is coming. When crossed in this way, the pulling side (that is, the one going to the bottom of the engine fly-wheel) will support the slack side and in a measure prevent it from being carried out of line by the wind. Allowance for the wind must be made, a heavy side wind requiring a setting of the engine sometimes as much as two feet out of line. When the rig has been set during a calm and a wind comes up, it is not necessary to stop, throw the belt and reset the engine in order to make the belt run on the pulley. Take a screw-jack or lifting- jack, set it obliquely under the front axle of the engine and move it in the direction the wind is blowing until the 62 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING belt runs properly on the fly-wheel. Move the front end of the separator in the same manner until the belt runs properly on the cylinder pulley. If trouble be experienced in getting the engine in line, this method may be used to correct the alignment until practice enables the operator to set the engine so that the belt will run in the center of both pulleys. This “jacking over” of the front of the engine or of the separator should be done while the belt is running. The friction-clutch should always be used in tightening and in backing the engine into the belt. ‘Ascending Hills. In coming to a steep hill the engi- neer should see that he has about the right amount of water in the boiler, that is, enough to show about two inches in the glass when the boiler is level. With the boiler too full there may be danger of priming, which should be espec- ially avoided on a hill. It is also necessary to exercise judgment in regard to the fire. It should be hot enough to insure sufficient steam pressure to climb the hill without stopping. On the contrary, the engine should not be al- lowed to blow off when pulling hard on a hill, as this is liable to cause priming, necessitating stopping. In short, when approaching a steep hill, prepare for it so that you know you can ascend without stopping. In ascending a hill, avoid running fast, as a moderate rate of speed gives best results. If the engine shows a tendency to prime, the speed should be limited by means of the throttle so that the engine may run just fast enough to pass its dead- centers. HANDLING THE ENGINE 63 Descending Hills. Important as it is to ascend the hill without stopping, it is doubly important in descending to reach level ground before stopping. Every man in charge of a boiler of the locomotive type should know the danger of stopping with the front end low. In descend- ing a very steep hill leave the throttle partly open to admit a little steam and if the engine runs too fast control the speed with reverse lever. Gravel Hills. In going up steep gravel hills there is danger of breaking through the surface crust, thereby letting the traction wheels into the soft gravel, which they will push out from under them, simply digging holes in- stead of propelling the engine. When this occurs, stop at once, before the engine buries itself. Block the wheels of the separator, or other load behind the engine and un- couple and it will probably move out all right. If it does not, put cordwood sticks in front of the traction wheels so that the grouters will catch. Another method is to hitch a team and start the team and engine together. Mud Holes. ‘The statements regarding gravel hills apply in general to soft mud holes. Stop the engine when the wheels slip, and put straw, brush, stones, sticks or any- thing else that may be handy in front of the wheels so that the grouters can take hold of something. When the en- gine is on a “greasy” road where the wheels slip without digging much, get a couple of men to help roll the front wheels and you will be surprised how much good this does. 64 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING With one traction wheel in a greasy mud hole or old stack bottom, and the other on solid ground, the differen- tial gear may be locked, but unless you understand the con- sequences of doing this, as elsewhere explained in this book, it will be better to get out some other way. The Use of a Cable. It is a good plan to carry a wire cable or heavy rope with the outfit. ‘Then when the en- gine stalls, it can be uncoupled and run onto solid ground where it can pull its load out of the hole by the long hitch, and then be coupled up short again. A cable or rope is elastic and therefore better than a chain, which 1s liable to snap with the shock of starting the load. Where a rope is used, it should have a ring spliced in one end. ‘The other end may be tied into a shackle or clevis on the engine draw-bar in a “‘bow-line” knot, which will not slip and 1s easily untied after being strained. A rope used in this way has the advantage of being adjustable as to length. If a chain be used the engine must be moved very slowly, by means of the friction clutch, until all the slack 1s out of the chain. | Special High Grouters. Engines for Louisiana, and other swampy localities, are usually fitted with pressed- steel grouters or “mud-hooks,” as they are called, which bolt to the traction wheels, in addition to the regular erouters. These are about five inches high and conse- quently must be taken off before crossing bridges. (They are furnished at an additional price.) CHAPTER VI THE ENGINE PROPER HE term “traction engine’ commonly includes, not only what is strictly speaking, the engine, but the boiler and traction parts as well. In this book, the term “engine proper” will be used to designate those parts which are actually concerned in converting the en- ergy of steam into rotary motion. The boiler changes N\A REVERSE LEVER CLUTCH LEVER e [WHISTLE pVIWREEL THROTTLE LEVER Hi Ai (Ga ey) r ‘ iY) = vif L = a = f fe) ¢ » ——— CROSS _HEAD Sea. Is QUADRANT, Av was BOILER f 5 FIG. 18. SIDE ELEVATION OF ENGINE PROPER. water into steam by adding to it, heat, taken from the fuel. The engine proper consumes steam and delivers motion. The Cylinder. It is in the cylinder that the actual 65 66 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING change of heat into motion takes place. Here the steam is alternately admitted on opposite sides of a piston, which is driven back and forth, thereby. This reciprocating mo- tion of the piston is changed into the rotary motion of the shaft, by the crank and connecting rod. The admission of steam to the cylinder is controlled by the “‘slide-valve,” which slides upon a planed surface, called the “valve-seat,” qn eS \ i. VALVE STEM STUFFING BOR j Z : j Lie Aaa bese a oy jt: Yyiiy NIANDER HEAD Yt Lp CYLINDER SAS Lg FIG. I9. SECTIONAL VIEW OF SIMPLE CYLINDER. in a chamber, called the “steam-chest,” which is adjacent to the cylinder. Passages, called “ports,” lead from the valve seat to the ends of the cylinder and to the outside air, called the “exhaust.” The valve alternately uncovers the ports and allows the steam in the chest to flow into the HE ENGINE PROPER 67 ends of the cylinder. The underside of the valve is cham- bered in such a manner that when the piston is being driven away from one end of the cylinder, this chamber connects the steam port of the opposite end with the exhaust port, and allows the steam to flow through the exhaust pipe into the air. ~The valve does not admit steam to the cylinder during a complete stroke of the piston, but only during a part, which is known as “admission.” When the piston has traveled a certain distance, the valve closes the port, shutting off the steam, at what is called the point of “cut- off.”” Since steam is elastic, it continues to act, with grad- ually decreasing pressure, upon the piston until the end of the stroke is reached. This part of the stroke and action of the steam is known as “‘expansion.”” In the same man- ner in which the admission of live steam is stopped before the piston completes its outward stroke, the exhaust is closed shortly before the return stroke is completed. The steam caught between the piston and the end of the cylin- der is compressed as the piston nears the end, raising the pressure of the steam and forming what is called the “cush- ion.” The part of the stroke after the exhaust has closed is called “compression.” ‘The steam is carried from the boiler to the steam chest by means of the steam pipe, in which the throttle and governor are located. Wide End of Valve. Sometimes the widths between the outside edges and the exhaust chamber edges of the valve are different for the two ends of the valve. The ob- 68 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING ject of making the valve in this way is to equalize com- pression. Such a valve should be put in with the wide end toward the rear or crank-end of cylinder. The Piston. ‘The piston is always a little smaller than the inside diameter of the cylinder. It is made steam tight, however, by rings which are fitted into grooves on its circumference. These rings are originally made slightly larger than the bore of the cylinder, and are after- ward cut apart, so that they may be compressed sufficiently to enter the cylinder. This gives them some tension so that they fit the inside of the cylinder closely, thus pre- venting leakage of the steam. The cylinder is bored slightly larger at the ends—‘‘counter-bored” as it is called. This is done to guard against the wearing of a shoulder, at the points, near each end of the cylinder, at which the outer edge of the piston ring stops. The forming of such a shoulder (which would cause the engine to pound), is prevented by allowing part of the ring to pass into the counter-bore. The entire width of the ring must not be permitted to enter the counter-bore, however, or the ring would expand and catch against the shoulder. To Divide the Clearance. ‘The clearance of an engine is the cubical contents of the port, from the face of the valve to the cylinder, including the space between the pis- ton and the cylinder head when the engine is on dead-cen- ter. To divide the clearance, loosen the clamp bolt and the jam nut on the piston rod and unscrew the rod from the THE ENGINE PROPER 69 cross-head until the piston just strikes the cylinder-head as the crank passes the head dead-center ; then screw in the rod until the piston just strikes the other cylinder-head as the engine passes the other dead-center carefully count- ing the number of turns of the rod. Now unscrew the rod half the number of turns counted and the clearance will be divided. ‘Tighten the clamp bolt and the jam nut. Packing Piston-Rod and Valve-Rod. A_ suitable packing for this purpose is the kind known as “gum-core” which is round in section and has a rubber center with a woven fabric covering. ‘There are many other kinds of good packing on the market. Italian hemp (which comes in the form of a rope), candle wicking and similar pack- ings can be used, but a rod stuffing-box packed with them requires continual attention, whereas if packed with “gum- core” or other good packings it will often run a whole season without re-packing. Packing Cylinder-Head and Steam-Chest Cover. Usu- ally sheet asbestos is used for the gaskets under steam- chest cover, cylinder-head, governor-base flange and other similar steam joints. There are some sheet-rubber pack- ings that are very good. Many engine-men do not know that a sheet-asbestos gasket when broken in separating the parts, even when a portion adheres on one side and the rest on the other, will hold tight providing that the pieces of the gasket go back in exactly the same position as be- fore. With either rubber or asbestos sheet packing, if 7O SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING one side be coated with graphite when first put on, the joint may be opened several times, and as the gasket will adhere to one side only, it will remain undisturbed and will not require renewing. In emergencies when no good packing is at hand, a leaky joint can be remedied in vari- ous ways. If small pieces of the packing blow out, the leakages can be plugged temporarily by soft wooden wedges. A gasket may be made of a piece of grain bag smeared with paint or cylinder oil. Common straw- board, or even a few thicknesses of newspaper, also an- swers very well as a gasket under steam-chest cover, cyl- inder-head or the like if the bolts be kept well tightened for’ the first day or two. A soft copper wire about 1-8 inch in diameter will also answer the purpose, when placed around the joint to be packed, inside of the bolts, and the ends joined carefully. Packing Valve-Stems. For packing the stems of globe and angle valves, the water-glass connections, throt- tle-stem and similar places, asbestos wicking (which comes in balls) is the most suitable. For valves that are not subjected to steam-pressure and are therefore never heated, cotton candle wicking or hemp will do nicely. The Crank-Pin and Disc. The crank-pin of an engine will quickly heat if keyed up too tightly or if the grease- cup which lubricates it is allowed to get empty. The crank-pin is forced into the disc with a pressure of several tons and will never get loose unless possibly by the pin THE ENGINE PROPER 71 getting hot and causing the brasses to set tight on the pin. When this occurs, the connecting-rod exerts a powerful tendency to twist the pin in the disc. The crank-disc on Case engines is pressed onto the shaft with a pressure of fifteen tons or more, and the key is then driven in. It will be seen that, owing to this pre- caution in securing it, the disc is not liable to get loose, and in fact the only strain that can possibly loosen it is the enormous one produced when an engine is started suddenly without allowing the water in the cylinder to escape. Sometimes operators think the disc is loose when it is not. They are deceived by the appearance of oil at the end of the shaft which may have seeped through along the sides of the key, or by the fact that the disc appears to “‘wobble.” The appearance of oil does not indicate looseness and the apparent wobbling may be due to end-play of the shaft. The Throttic. The throttle controls the flow of steam from the boiler to the steam chest. It should be left open after the engine is started, allowing the governor to con- trol the speed. The only exception to this rule is when the engine is working hard, as when traveling up a hill, with its boiler showing a tendency to prime. In this case, the engine should be made to run very slowly by means of the throttle. The skill with which some operators handle the throttle enables them to drive an engine up a hill which one less skilled could not make the engine climb. This applies principally to localities in which the water is 72 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING so bad that it makes all boilers liable to prime. The throt- tle should be drained in cold weather to prevent damage by frost. Leaky Throttles. If the throttle is leaky, see that the valve is put in so that the steam pressure holds it against the seat when closed. Arrows are placed on the body casting and on the valve itself, indicating the direc- tion of the flow of steam to aid in putting in the valve correctly. Leakage may be the result of a sprung valve- body or valve, or both, occasioned by freezing or other causes. ‘The valve itself may have become twisted by someone trying to open the throttle when it was stuck by frost. Leaks can usually be remedied by taking out the valve and filing it on the high places shown by the contact. Use a very fine file and bear lightly, or use emery “WD cloth. File off but little before try- ing the valve for leakage. A second filing will usually be found to suffice. The Governor. The speed of the steam threshing-engine is controlled by a governor, which “throttles” or limits the amount of steam admitted to the cylinder. The essential parts ELT. (vais? “throttling”? governor consist of balls which tend to fly apart by centrifugal action, which movement is transmitted to the valve and partly closes it. THE ENGINE PROPER 73 The outward movement of the balls is resisted by springs. A perspective view of a governor is shown in Fig. 20, and a sectional view of the valve-body in Fig. 21. The valve connection to the stem has no play endwise, but is flexible, thus allowing the valve to align itself by its seat. Speed of Engine. To increase the speed of the engine, loosen the check nut at the top of the Waters governor and turn the screw up. To decrease the speed, screw it down. Be sure to set the check nut tight after altering. Packing the Governor. For packing the stuffing-box, candle wicking (which comes in balls) is excellent; soaked in a mixture of cylinder oil and black lead or graphite, it will work well and last a long time. Do not screw the stuffing-box down too hard on the packing, or the sensi- tive action of the governor will be interfered with. It is well to allow a slight leakage to insure its not being too tight. Otling the Governor. Oil the governor thoroughly with good oil. Oil regularly (at least twice a day) the brass washer at the top, the horizontal shaft, the barrel (which is oiled from the top), etc. Keep the governor clean and oil-holes open. If oil has been used which gums or causes the parts to stick, a little kerosene poured into the oil holes will clean the parts. If the use of gummy oil is continued, this treatment should be repeated once a week after shutting down. The Governor Belt. Use a thin flat belt and see that the lacing or fastening is hammered down flat, so that no 74 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING bunch remains to cause an uneven working of the gov- ernor. ‘The belt should be sufficiently taut to prevent slipping, but not so taut as to cause undue friction. The belt should be kept free from excessive oil or grease from other parts of the engine. This may be wiped off with a clean cloth moistened with a little kerosene or benzine and afterwards wiped again with a dry cloth. Governor Troubles. If the governor “jumps” or is STUFFING cox: ifregtilar,1bas* propa VALVE STEM : occasioned by one of the following causes: First, because the valve is a lit- tle tight; second, be- cause the valve-stem is bent; or, third, because \ the stuffing-box nut is screwed down too tight- ly. Turning the valve- stem up and dowa while the governor is running, will show whether the valve works FIG. = SECTION OF WATERS GOVERNOR VALVE. freely in its Seat.* Jiiat binds at all, take it out, and rub it with a fine emery cloth, but never attempt to file it. In taking the governor apart, the top must be lifted off as “true” as possible, so as not to bend the valve-stem. If the valve-stem becomes bent THE ENGINE PROPER 75 where it passes through the stuffing-box, it will be best to. procure a new stem. A governor should hold down the speed of the engine and not allow it to “‘race”’ or “run wild,’ even with no load and full boiler pressure. When a governor, which once controlled the speed properly fails to do so it is an indication that either its action is interfered with by an imperfect stem or the like, or else that the valve and lining have become worn so that sufficient steam leaks through to cause the engine to race. Sometimes when this is the case, the engine “dies” when called on to pull a heavy load (as in sawing) on account of the fact that it is screwed down too far in the attempt to control the speed with no load. The remedy for this trouble is a new valve and new lining or valve-seat. The length of time that a governor will run before leakage through the valve be- comes troublesome varies greatly—from only a season or so to perhaps ten or twelve years, depending on the purity of the water. Rated Horse-Power. Stationary engines are rated at about their actual horse-power, as determined by brake test. Farm and traction engines, on the other hand, have been rated very much below their actual or brake horse- power, which is to be regretted. As the practice of under- rating has existed since engines for driving threshing ma- chines were first built, and has grown up with the busi- ness, it is somewhat difficult to change this at the present 76 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING time, but it is being gradually brought about. If we look into history and causes, we find that the early method of driving threshing machines was by horses, and when en- gines were first used for threshing, a ten horse-power en- gine was supposed to supply about the same amount of power as a lever-power driven by ten horses. From the time of those early engines to the present, the competition of different manufacturers, all endeavoring to furnish the most powerful engine of a given rating, and the raising of the steam pressure from 60 to 130 or even 160 pounds (which was done without reducing the size of the cylinder of a given rating), has caused the rating of engines of this class to become more and more confusing. The re- lation which the rated horse-power bears to the actual size of the engine varies so greatly that, in reality, the “rated ‘horse-power” gives only a very indefinite idea of the actual size of an engine. There are reasons why it is preferable to indicate the size of an engine by size of its cylinder, instead of by its rated horse-power ; for example, to say a “nine by ten” rather than a “fifteen horse” engine. However, besides the cylinder size, the steam pressure carried and the speed are also important factors in de- termining the amount of horse-power an engine will de- velop, and therefore a brake rating based on the actual load the engine is capable of carrying 1s the only satis- factory method. English engines are more under-rated than any of those built in the United States, but in compar- THE ENGINE PROPER 77 ing the engines of these countries, the difference in steam pressure and speed must be taken into consideration, as well as the difference in the size of cylinders. ‘The methods of obtaining the exact horse-power of an engine with the indicator or the Prony brake are becoming better known, but it is probable, however, that all engines will not be cor- rectly rated for some time to come. Engine Horse-Power. ‘The unit of power is a “horse- power” which is defined as the amount of power necessary to raise thirty-three thousand pounds one foot in one min- ute. From this it will be seen that, if we know the amount of force exerted in pounds and multiply by the number of feet it travels in a minute and then divide the product so obtained by 33,000, we will have the result in horse-power. We have, then, as our unit of horse-power something that means a definite amount and one that can be easily meas- ured, with reasonable accuracy. The horse-power of an engine may be found by multi- plying the average, total effective pressure on the piston, by the number of feet it travels per minute, and dividing by thirty-three thousand. The total effective pressure on the piston is equal to its area in square inches, multi- plied by the effective pressure per square inch, which is not constant, but varies, being nearest boiler pressure dur- ing the early part of the stroke and decreasing after the point of cut-off is passed, as the steam expands, until the 78 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING end of the stroke is reached. The effective pressure is the pressure remaining after subtracting the back pressure of the exhaust, which is exerted on the opposite side of the piston. Indicated Horse-Power. The pressure at the different parts of the stroke can be actually measured only by means of the steam-engine indicator. This instrument has a small piston, connected to a pencil point in such a way that move- ment of the piston is registered on a card. Since the movement of the piston is resisted by a calibrated spring, its position depends upon the amount of pressure it is sub- jected to, and as the card moves, corresponding to the movement of the engine piston, therefore, the amount of pressure at all points may be known from the diagram made by the pencil point. Knowing the pressures at the various points of the stroke, it is easy to multiply the aver- age by the travel of the piston in feet per minute and thus determine the horse-power. The result so obtained is called the “indicated” horse-power. ‘The indicator meas- ures the power developed in the cylinder and, of course, it takes a part of this to run the engine itself. The amount so consumed is, roughly, ten per cent. of the whole. Brake Horse-Power. ‘The net horse-power delivered at the fly-wheel may be actually measured by means of a de- vice known as the ‘Prony brake.”” Sometimes the brake is mounted on the engine shaft, but more often the engine is belted to the brake, as shown in Fig. 22. A Prony brake consists essentially of a band which may be tightened so THE ENGINE PROPER 79 as to apply friction to a revolving shaft, pulley or drum in such a manner that the tendency of the band to revolve with the shaft is resisted by weighing scales, which will show the amount of pull. The result so obtained is called the “brake” horse-power. It is evident that the difference between the indicated and brake horse-power is the power required to run the engine, that is, to overcome the friction in the engine itself and sometimes in the brake also. Since we can know the speed of the revolving shaft, FIG, 22. the scale reading and the distance in feet that the point at which the scales are applied would travel in one revo- lution if allowed to turn with the shaft, we can determine the horse-power by multiplying these three amounts to- gether and dividing by 33,000. Sometimes the radius of the circle that the scales act on, or “‘brake-arm”’ as it Is called, is made 63 inches and when this is the case the calculating is simplified because it is then only necessary to multiply the number of revolutions per minute by the number of pounds shown by the scales and divide the prod- uct by 1,000 in order to determine the horse-power. A good example of a Prony brake is shown in Fig. 23. So SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING The friction wheel on this has inner and outer flanges on the rim. The friction band consists of a flexible strap of steel with wooden blocks attached to it to form the friction surfaces. The desired tension on the band is obtained by means of the adjusting screw with hand-wheel. The brake-arm rests on a knife-edge on the top of a post which FIG. 23. PRONY BRAKE. by keeping a flow of cooling water on the inside of the rim. Centrifugal force and the flanges hold the water against the inside of the rim when the wheel is in motion. A pipe with its end in the form of a scoop removes the heated water while another continually discharges fresh water into the rim. Heavy grease is applied to the rubbing surfaces. THE ENGINE PROPER Si There are several other forms of Prony brake in com- mon use. A very satisfactory one is similar to the one in the cut except that the band is tightened by a lever and weights instead of the screw. The influence of these tension weights on the scale reading must be taken into account, but otherwise this arrangement has an advantage since the tension on the band is not changed by contraction and expansion due to changes in temperature. In another form of the Prony brake, sometimes called a “rope brake,” several strands of rope are used in place of the friction band with wood blocks. The principle, however, is the same in all. Draw-Bar Horse-Power. Since we know that horse- power is simply force in pounds multiplied by the dis- tance in feet travelled in one minute and divided by 33,000, it is a very simple matter to determine the horse-power being delivered at the draw-bar of a traction engine. For this purpose a draw-bar dynamometer is used. This in- strument is simply a form of spring scales of suitable proportions and is sometimes provided with a recording device. Calculating the Horse-Power. Although, as already stated, the average pressure on the piston can be meas- ured only by means of the steam-engine indicator, we can, for calculation, assume a value for it that is ac- curate enough for ordinary purposes. This we will take to be fifty per cent. of the boiler pressure, a value which 6 82 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING closely approximates the actual one for engines of the class we are dealing with. ‘Then, with a boiler pressure of one hundred and thirty pounds, our average effective pressure ’ (or “mean effective pressure,” as it is called) per square inch will be fifty per cent. of one hundred and thirty pounds, or sixty-five pounds. The formula commonly used for determining the horse-power of an engine is as fol- lows: PLAN 33,000 in which P=—=mean effective pressure. L=length of stroke in feet. A=area of piston in square inches. N=number of strokes per minute, or twice the number of revolutions. The area of a circle is equal to its diameter multiplied by itself and the product by .7854. ‘To show the applica- tion of this formula, we will take, for example, an engine with a g-inch bore, a 10-inch stroke, a speed of 250 revo- lutions per minute and a boiler pressure of 130 pounds— the size of the forty-five horse-power Case engine: Ps== 50%: of. 130 == 65- pounds, i= 10 12 -or 4833 teet. Pe Ox 9x 804 03617 +sq. inches. N = 250 x 2= 500 strokes per minute. Substituting these values for the letters in the formula, WE Bete 65 x 833x 63.617 x 500 _ roe a a5 -7 91111 ae 1orse-power. Since this is the power developed -in the cylinder, it corresponds to the indicated horse-power, and it is greater than the horse-power delivered at the fly-wheel or brake horse-power by about ten per cent. Subtracting this ten THE ENGINE PROPER 83 per cent., we have 47 brake horse-power as the result. In applying the above formula, several of the same figures always occur, and we may combine these in order to make our formula as simple as possible. When we have done this, we have it in the following form: Px bx De DeUN x IS 10,000,000 in which P =boiler pressure in pounds per sq. inch. L = length of, stroke in imches. D= cylinder bore in inches. N=number of revolutions. This may be stated in the form of a rule which can ==. El iP be readily applied by any one. This rule is as follows: Multiply together the boiler-pressure, the length of the stroke in inches, the cylinder bore in inches, again the bore in inches, and this product finally by 18. Divide the result by 10,000,000 (which 1s simply pomting off seven places), and the quotient is the brake horse-power. The following illustrates the application of this rule to the Case forty-five horse engine: 130 = boiler pressure. 10 length of stroke in inches. 1,300 9 —cylinder bore in inches. 11,700 9 —cylinder bore in inches. 105,800 250 = revolutions per minute. 5,265,000 21,060,000 26,320,000 18 =the constant. 210,560,000 263,200,000 473,760,000 84 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Dividing by 10,000,000, or pointing off seven places, we get 47.4==brake horse-power. Compounded Engines. A compounded engine is one in which the steam is expanded in two or more cylinders. Threshing engines, when compounded, are “two-cylinder”’ compounds, but large stationary and marine engines are often “triple” and sometimes “quadruple” expansion. ey SSW SEE nich | N= Wy Y- Z S AS ie. wae Ve sree Yy Z ps PY HY LO cee wate eel FIG. 24. SECTIONAL VIEW OF “WOOLF” COMPOUNDED CYLINDER. There are different types of two-cylinder compounds, viz. : the “cross,” where the cylinders are abreast and each piston connected toa separate crank; the “trunk,” in which two pistons of the same size are connected by an enlarged rod or trunk, the high-pressure cylinder being in the form of an annular ring between the pistons, and the low- pressure at the ends of the long cylinder which 1s the same THE ENGINE PROPER 85 bore throughout; and the “tandem,” having one cylinder behind the other, with both pistons on the same rod. The latter has proved to be the type best adapted for use on farm and traction engines. The Woolf Compound. ‘The cut Fig. 24 shows a sectional view of the ‘Woolf”-tandem-compound cyl- inder used on “Case” compound engines. Its operation 1s as follows: ‘The steam from the boiler enters the valve (which is hollow), through the large opening at the crank end, passes through the valve and out at the narrow open- ing near the head end, which, as the valve moves, alter- nately comes opposite the two ports leading to the ends of the small or high pressure cylinder. The valve in moving also alternately uncovers these ports, allowing the high-pressure cylinder to exhaust into the steam chest. The low-pres- sure cylinder S ER receives the steam from the steam chest, and ex- TEAM CHAMB EXHAUST CHAMBER TG 4 £47 ACE OF VALVE 3 al Za Wa eee tts Ss fs through the ‘ ( 8 | FIG. 25. FACE OF COMPOUNDED VALVE. heater) into the stack, in exactly the same manner as a simple engine. The valve is “balanced” because high-pressure steam 1s under and tending to lift it, while the low-pressure steam 86 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING is on top, and pressing it against its seat. When the engine is running with a light load, the pressure is sometimes insufficient to hold the valve against its seat, in which case a loud clattering noise is made by the valve as it rises from and returns to its seat. To prevent PIPE TO STEAM PLUcs. this, two steam plugs are placed in the chambered steam-chest cover, so that, when the valve in the small steam pipe connecting this chamber with the main steam-pipe is open, the live steam pressure against the plugs holds the valve against its seat. To Take Apart the Compounded Cylinder. To take out the pistons for renewing the piston-rings or for other purposes, first unbolt and remove the high-pressure cyl- inder. ‘Then loosen the jam-nut and unscrew the rod from the cross-head by turning the pistons. The rod with the two pistons and the center-head may now be pulled out. In replacing the cylinder, loosen the three (or four), set-screws, which hold the center-head in position, and after the high-pressure cylinder is bolted in place, tighten them up in order to hold the center-head in position and prevent leakage. If the asbestos gasket has been injured it will be necessary to put in a new one. THE ENGINE PROPER 87 Center-Flead Packing. Leakage around the rod, be- tween the two cylinders, is prevented by metallic packing, which, with sufficient lubrication and clean water in the boiler, will re- main tight dur- ing the life of the engine. The accompanying cuts show a side and a sectional view of the me- tallic piston-rod packing which is located in the FIG. 27. THE CENTER-HEAD PACKING. center-head between the high and low-pressure cylinders. In the side view, the rings G and B are removed. The center-head is represented by A. The iron-packing rings D and E are each in three parts or segments and are held in their proper places by the spring C. These segments of rings are so placed that they “break joints,” as can readily be seen from the side elevation. They are held in position, relative to each other, by the dowel pin, H. These packing rings are held in place by the ring B, and also by the ring G, which is fastened to the head with three cap-screws, F. The head is held in its position between the cylinders by set-screws, as can readily be seen from Fig. 24. To Test the Center-Head Packing, set the reverse lever 88 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING for, say, the threshing motion and turn the engine in the direction in which it would run, just past the crank-end dead-center. Block the cross-head so that the crank-shaft cannot revolve, disconnect the cylinder-cock rod, and open the throttle. This will admit steam on the crank-end of the high pressure cylinder, and if the cylinder-cock on the head-end of the low-pressure cylinder blows steam when opened, it can come only from leakage of the metallic packing in the center-head. CHAPTER VII THE VALV E-GHAR \HE mechanism that operates the valve of an engine is known as the “valve-gear.” On stationary or portable engines, which are only required to run in one direction, the valve gear consists simply of an eccentric on the crank shaft (to which the valve stem is connected by means of the eccentric-rod), and a guide to keep the valve-stem in alignment. As traction engines must be run in both directions, a reversing valve gear is required, which necessarily renders the valve gear more complicated. There have been numerous mechanisms in- vented for this purpose, but most traction engines are equipped with either the “link” or the Woolf reverse, as these are almost the only ones that have withstood the test of time. It is apparent, that, in order to use steam econom- ically, it must be allowed to pass in and out of the cylinder at precisely the right moments, and during certain inter- vals. Consequently, the economy of a steam engine de- pends almost entirely upon the valve-gear, which should, therefore, be kept in good repair. The ease with which the valve is moved, depends largely upon its lubrication. 89 UVAI-TATVA USNAATY MIOOM FHL ‘Qe “Old iAVULS ae =i OIMLN3004— UGE eZ = invuave THE VALVE-GEAR g! If the valve be allowed to run dry, the valve-gear is sub- jected to an immense amount of unnecessary work, which soon wears it, so that the valve does not move as it should, and the engine becomes wasteful in its use of steam. The valve should be well lubricated at all times, the wearing parts of the valve-gear should be oiled frequently and every precaution taken to keep the valve-gear in first class con- dition. The wear should be taken up as fast as it appears so that the parts are not allowed to pound. The Woolf Valve-Gear. ‘The Woolf valve-gear pos- sesses advantages over the other devices used for reversing traction engines, which entitle it to rank as the most popu- lar and satisfactory means for this purpose known at the present time. It is very simple, consisting of a single eccentric, the “strap” of which is extended to form an arm; to the end of this arm is pivoted a block, which slides in a guide connected to the hand lever and pivoted in such a way that the angle of the block’s path depends upon the position of the hand lever; the eccentric rod transmits the motion from the eccentric arm (to which it is connected), to the valve stem through a rocker arm or guided “slide.” It will be seen that the angle of the “block guide” de- termines the amount of travel of the valve. By placing the reverse lever at or near the center of the quadrant, the reverse gear acts as an efficient brake in controlling the en- gine when descending hills, or at any time when it is desir- able to suddenly check the speed of the engine. This reverse Q2 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING allows of “hooking up,” that is, placing the lever in notches between the end and center of the quadrant. In these positions, the valve travel is reduced and the points of ‘cut-off’? made earlier, which, of course, lessens the amount of steam required. It is, therefore, economy to run the engine “hooked up” whenever its load will allow. Pro- vision is made for taking up lost motion in the parts sub- jected to wear. All the joints should be kept well oiled, but the only parts which require frequent attention in this respect, are the eccentric and the sliding block. When the valve is sufficiently lubricated, and the valve-gear is prop- erly oiled and adjusted, the reverse lever is easily handled, when under a full head of steam. Caution Against Disturbing the Valve Setting. It so often happens that an expert, when called to an engine, finds that the valve has been re-set after the engine left the factory, that it seems best, at this point, to say a few words of caution against disturbing the valve of a new engine. Let us advise you not to jump to the conclusion that your valve is incorrectly constructed or improperly set. Remember that the engine has been designed and built by experienced men, thoroughly competent to make it all that it should be. Remember, too, that the engine has been tested at the factory, in the belt and on the road with heavy loads, within sight and hearing of a dozen men, whose long experience has made them so critical that they could not fail to detect anything wrong in the engine’s performance. THE VALVE-GEAR 93 Let us add that in nine cases out of ten, where an expert is called to reset a valve, he finds that it has been disturbed since it left the testing room. Do not, then, conclude that your valve is “off,” until you have carefully investigated whatever trouble there may be. There are men in nearly every locality throughout the country, who are confident that they themselves know more about setting valves than do the manufacturers. These men affirm that whatever trouble they may have is due to the working of the valve, and, when no improvement is shown after they have reset it, they say that the valve- gear was not properly constructed and designed originally. If they had carefully investigated the trouble before dis- turbing the valve, they would have discovered the real cause, due probably to either insufficient cylinder and valve lubrication, or to a priming tendency of the boiler. The causes of, and the remedies for these difficulties are dis- cussed elsewhere in this book. Finding the “Dead Centers.” An engine is on its “dead center” when a line drawn through the center of the piston-rod will pass through the center of the crank- pin. There are two, the “crank” dead-center, when the piston is at the end of the cylinder nearest the crank-shaft, and the “head” dead-center, when the piston is at the op- posite end. An engine is said to be running “over” when the top of rim of fly-wheel runs away from the cylinder and running “under” when the top of rim of fly-wheel runs Q4 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING towards the cylinder. “Case” engines are marked for finding the dead-centers at the factory, and by applying one of the company’s trams, as indicated in Fig. 29, they may be readily placed on either dead-center. It may be necessary to scrape off the paint to find the prick-punch marks on the frame and on the crank-disc. The tram shown in the illustration measures eight and three-six- \} teenths inches between the |} points, which size has been ] used by the “Case” company ‘for many years. It will be seen that a “Case” engine may be put on its dead cen- ters by using a pair of dividers set to this distance, but they do not serve the purpose as weil as the tram. The following method of finding the dead centers is the one used at the factory, and is generally used on all styles of engines. To put it into use, first take up all lost motion in the connecting-rod brasses, crank-shaft bearing and cross-head shoes. Then turn the engine until the piston lacks an inch or so of completing its stroke. Make a prick-punch mark at any convenient place on the cross- head (see Fig. 30), insert one point of the tram in the mark and with the other point, make a scratch on the engine frame to locate a second prick-punch mark. The THE VALVE-GEAR 95 tram points should now measure the exact distance be- tween the two marks and when applied should be nearly parallel to the piston-rod, as shown in Fig. 30. In the same manner, a mark should be made at any convenient place on the frame near the crank-disc, a scratch made on the disc (which should come across the face of the disc), and a light prick-punch mark made on the disc, so that the tram measures the exact distance between the marks, as shown in Fig. 29. Next, turn the engine until the cross-head comes back to the same place, but with the crank-pin on the other side of the dead-center, holding the FIG. 30. TRAM ON CROSS-HEAD. tram with one point in the mark on the frame, near the guides, and the other so that it will drop into the cross-head prick-punch mark when it comes to the right place. Next, place one leg of the tram in the other mark on the frame and make a scratch on the disc as before, to locate the second mark on the rim of the crank-disc. When this is done, find the mid-point between the two marks (which are tem- porary), on the disc, with a pair of dividers, mark it clearly, and then destroy the two original marks. The other dead-center is found in the same manner. Now when the crank-disc is turned around until the tram point 96 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING drops into one of the marks on it, the engine will be on either of its dead-centers. With engines, on which the crank-disc is not easily reached, the prick-punch marks for the tram are usually located on the fly-wheel rim. They were so placed on “Case” center-crank engines. In placing the engine on its dead-centers, in examin- ing the valve setting, or in setting the valve, it should always be turned in the direction indicated by the reverse lever, that is, if the reverse lever is in the forward end of the quadrant, the engine should be turned “under,” or in the direction in which it runs when threshing. If turned past the mark, it should be turned the opposite way and again brought to the mark, moving in the right direction. This eliminates any error due to lost motion. To Determine if the Valve Setting has been Disturbed. New engines have their valves set at the factory before being painted, so that broken paint often reveals the fact that someone has re-set the valve. Besides this indication, “Case” engines are provided with marks, by means of which, one can determine whether or not the valve setting has been disturbed since the engine left the factory and, if it has been disturbed, furnish the means to bring it back to the original setting without removing the steam chest cover. ‘The eccentric hub and the shaft are marked, as with a sharp cold chisel, so that the marks meet when the eccentric is in its proper position. When one suspects that | the eccentric has slipped from its original position, an ex- THE VALVE-GEAR Q7 amination of these marks will show whether it has or has not. If it has slipped, the trouble may be corrected by loosening the set-screws and rotating it around the shaft until the marks correspond. An eccentric is liable to slip when it becomes hot from running without oil and this tendency in such cases is sometimes strong enough to draw over or even shear off the points of the set screws which secure the eccentric. Besides the marks on the eccentric, there are marks on the valve-stem and its stuffing-box, in order to make apparent any change in the length of the valve-rod or the eccentric-rod. ‘To use these marks, however, one should have one of the Company’s valve-rod trams. This is shorter than the one used on the crank-disc and measures exactly four and three-sixteenths inches between points. It is used as shown in Fig. 31. There are two marks on the valve-stem and they should be on top. When the reverse lever is at the rear end of the quadrant, (ayees, the road: motion), and the engine is placed on one of its dead centers, the valve-rod tram should drop into one of the marks, and when the engine is placed on its other dead-center, the tram should drop into the other mark. If the tram 7 FIG. 31. TRAM ON VALVE-STEM. 98 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING points do not drop into the marks, the eccentric rod should be adjusted as to length until they do or else the valve must be entirely re-set as explained below. How to Set the Valve on Engines with Woolf Reverse. After having taken up all the lost motion on the valve- gear, main-bearings, crank-pin and cross-head pin and shoes, and being provided with the tram for placing the engine on its dead-centers, as explained, proceed to set the valve as follows: First. Length of Reach-Rod. See that the “reach- rod” from the “reverse-lever” to the “block-guide” is of such length that the valve moves the same distance during a revolution of the fly-wheel in one direction as for a revolution in the opposite direction, with the reverse-lever _ in the corresponding end notch of the quadrant in both cases. ‘The entire distance the valve moves, which is called the “valve travel,’ may be conveniently measured on the valve stem by the tram, as illustrated in Fig. 31, or by a pair of dividers or compasses. ‘To do this hold one of the tram points in the punch-mark on the stuffing-box and, with the other, make scratches across the rod as the fly-wheel is slowly revolved. If the “valve travel” be more for one motion than for the other, it shows that the reach-rod is either too long or too short to give the proper angularity to the block-guide, which angularity | determines the travel of the valve. ‘This rod can be easily adjusted to the correct length by taking the pin out of the THE VALVE-GEAR 99 lever and turning the forked head on the rod until the required length is obtained. The jam-nut should then be tightened to prevent lost motion. Second. Location of Eccentric. See that the eccentric is in the proper position, which is, with its point of great- est throw nearly opposite the engine crank-pin on all engines except the one hundred and ten horse-power, on which it is in line with the crank-pin. The movement of the valve in throwing the lever from one end notch to the other end notch of the quadrant, with the engine on its dead-center, is called the “slip.” When the eccentric is properly located, the “slip” will be the same for “head” dead-center as for “crank” dead-center. The “‘slip’” must not only be alike in amount, but must also be in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, in both cases. If the “‘slip” be with the lever for one dead- center, and against it for the other, the eccentric is not in the correct position, and should be rotated slightly on the shaft, until the “slip” is in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, for both dead-centers. If it be impossible to get this, the pedestal is not the right height, as explained in the following paragraph. In setting the eccentric, one set-screw will hold it in place temporarily. Third. Height of Pedestal. See that the pedestal is the correct height. The amount of “slip” indicates this, and if it be one-sixteenth for both dead-centers, and in 100 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, the pedestal is the proper height. If the pedestal be too high, the “slip” of the valve will be more than one-six- teenth, and if too low, it will be less or none at all, or if very low, the valve stem will move in the opposite direction to that in which the reverse lever is moved. The pedestal may be raised, by placing “shims” of sheet-iron between it and the frame at the place where it is bolted, and lowered by removing the “shims.” If there be none, the pedestal must be taken to a machine-shop and planed off in order | to lower it. Fourth. Dividing the Leads. When you know that the reach-rod is the correct length; that the eccentric is in the proper position, and that the pedestal is the correct height, give the valve three-thirty-seconds of an inch “Jead” on the crank-end for the threshing-motion. The “slip” of the valve, in throwing the lever over to the road motion, will reduce this lead by one-sixteenth, so that the leads will be nearly alike for the road motion. ‘The “lead” should be obtained by adjusting the length of the eccentric-rod, allowing the nuts on the valve-stem to remain undisturbed. If the nuts on valve-stem be loos- ened, the “draw-block” is liable to be tilted so that the valve cannot leave its seat (without bending the rod), when necessary to let water out of cylinder. It is best, after setting the valve, to go all over it again from the beginning, and if all be found correct, the eccen- THE VALVE-GEAR Io! tric may be set permanently by tightening both set-screws, for which there are counter-sunk depressions in the shaft. It sometimes happens when the eccentric strap has been set up too tightly, or has been allowed to become dry and hot, that the eccentric hub rotates a little on the shaft, drawing the holes and set screws slightly. If necessary, the depressions may be changed by slid- ing the eccentric-hub to one side (after having removed the eccentric-strap), and chipping them out with a round- nose chisel so that the deepest part is in the required position for the set-screw. The eccentric-hub and shaft should be marked (as is done at the factory), with a cold- chisel, so that should the eccentric slip, the slippage can be discovered and the eccentric readily re-set. In any style of valve-gear the “lead” is changed by rotating the eccentric around the shaft. It will be seen that the Woolf reverse, having but one eccentric cannot be adjusted to change the lead, because if the lead be it will be decreased for engine running “under,” and vice versa. There is increased for engine running “over,’ therefore but one position for the eccentric. ‘This is de- termined at the factory, and on “Case” engines built since 1898 the main shaft 1s countersunk for the set screws. Even Cut-ofis. ‘The above is the method used in set- ting the valve on Thirty, Thirty-six, Forty-five, Sixty and Seventy-five horse-power “Case” traction engines at the factory, and brake and indicator tests show that these 102 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING engines, with their valves so set, easily develop their rated horse-power, and are very economical. It will be seen that this method of setting the valve gives unequal “leads” for the threshing-motion, there being three-thirty- seconds of an inch on the crank-end and no lead on the head-end. The points of cut-off, however, will be ‘‘even,” that is, substantially alike on both ends, for both road and threshing-motions. Equal Leads. Were it desirable to set the valve with equal “leads,” it could be done by making the pedestal of such a height that there would be no “slip.” In this case, the points of cut-off would not be even, and one end of the cylinder would do more work than the other. For this, and other reasons, this method is not recommended. Setting the Valve on Compounds. ‘The valve of the Woolf-compound cylinder is set in exactly the same man- ner as that of a simple engine, the part of valve covering low-pressure ports only, being considered. How to Set Valve on Portable Engines. See that there is no lost motion in the connecting-rod brasses, main bearings and the valve-rod connections, the latter being most important. Remove steam-chest cover. Now, with the eccentric secured to the crank-shaft, slowly turn the fly-wheel in order to see that the valve travels an equal amount on each side of the ports. This may be conveniently determined by making fine scratches on the valve seat along the edges of the valve when in its ex- THE VALVE-GEAR 103 treme positions and then measuring the distances between the scratches and the edges of the ports. If a difference xists in these measurements, adjust the valve stem by lengthening or shortening it, as the case may require, until the valve travels the same distance past the two ports. Next, place the engine on one of its dead centers, as ex- plained on page 93, and unless the valve shows one thirty-second of an inch opening or lead at the port lead- ing to the end of the cylinder where the piston is, the eccentric is not in the correct position. If it is not, loosen it from the crank-shaft and rotate it until it is about one- quarter revolution ahead of the crank-pin in the direction in which the engine is to run, watching the valve as the eccentric is revolved, until the port has opened exactly ne thirty-second of an inch. ‘Tighten the set screw in the eccentric and place the engine on the opposite dead- center, and the port opening will be found to be just one’ thirty-second of an inch also, providing the work has been carefully done. The above instructions apply for setting the valve to run the engine in either direction, it being only neces- sary to see that the eccentric is always a little more than one-quarter revolution ahead of the crank-pin in the direc- tion in which the engine is to run. “Case” portable engines are always set at the factory to run “under” unless otherwise ordered. | Setiing a Valve with Link Reverse. After having 104 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING taken up all the lost motion, as explained, the first thing to do, in setting the valve on an engine equipped with the “link” reverse, is to find the correct length of the eccentric-rods. To do this, take off the steam-chest cover and place the reverse lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. Now, with a scratch-awl having a very fine point, make scratches on the valve seat, show- ing the extreme position of the valve at each end of its travel as the fly-wheel is revolved. Measure from the marks to the outside edges of the steam ports, and, if there be any difference, divide it up by lengthening or shorten- ing the eccentric-rod, that is for the time being, moving the valve. The length of the other rod is found in the same way, the reverse-lever being at the opposite end of the quadrant. If the engine be marked and you have the “tram” for placing it on the centers, as already explained, proceed to set the valve as follows: After the lengths of the eccentric-rods are correctly adjusted, according to the method already given, place the engine on one of its dead-centers, say, the head one, and set the reverse lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. The valve should now be in such a position that the port leading to the head end of the cylinder should show a “lead” equal to the thickness of an ordinary playing card. The amount of lead may be varied by rotating the eccentric hub around the shaft. Rotating it in the direction in which the engine is to run increases the lead and moving it in the opposite THE VALVE-GEAR 105 direction decreases the lead. When you have obtained the desired lead, place the engine on the other dead-center and see if the lead be the same. If it be not, the valve- stem should be lengthened or shortened (by means of adjusting nuts), until it is the same. If, after dividing the lead, there be too much or too little, rotate the eccentric hub on the shaft, until the required lead is obtained. at both ends. The valve is now set for the engine running either “over” or “under,” according to the end of the quadrant at which the reverse lever was set. The reverse- lever may now be placed in the other end of the quadrant and the valve set for the other motion. This is done in the same manner, except that the dividing of the lead must now be done on the eccentric-rod instead of the valve-stem, so that the first setting will not be disturbed. When this is done, try the other motion again, so that when you are through, you know that the lead is the same for both dead-centers for the engine running either over or under. The draw-block should be examined to insure its not being so tipped as to prevent the valve from rising from its seat when necessary to let water out of the cylinder. With the link reverse, the lead can be as much or as little as desired and need not be the same for both motions. However, lead equal to the thickness of a playing card will give the best results for this class of engines. ‘qOOM UO IVOO YO SALVUD HLIM YATIOd AO MAIA TVNOILIES ONINAdO LAVUG —- DAT WaLV A ALV1d UZLSIO ee 10H CNVH | LagaHS —"} qanL LNOwd | koa SONS Sas Oe O¢ Ss NSPS CGOOCCCCCTOOSD CSOT a ONINEdO LAVUG uyad ~NVd HSV VOOO OO COOOO 0080 FP 0000000 ——— 53 oO Qa oO Oo) o' © Op On On 1On © rz = So if¢ oO (@) of238Hloxog O oO ONTd LAOHSV AN = — 7a : ONTd LNOHSV AN CHAPTER’ Vill Tite, BOLLELR W SHE function of the boiler is to heat water sufh- ciently to change it into steam, for use in an engine, or for other purposes. The supply of water for the boiler has been treated under “The Feed Water” in Chapter II, and the management of the fire with various fuels under “Firing” in Chapter III. Boiler Fittings. ‘The fittings necessary for the opera- tion of a boiler, are the feeder (for supplying the water), glass gage and gage cocks (for indicating the water level), a steam gage (for indicating the pressure), a pop or safety valve (to prevent the pressure from reaching a dangerous height), and a “blow-off” valve (for draining the boiler). A boiler is usually fitted also with a whistle for signaling, a fusible plug and a blower for forcing the draft. The water feeders, water glass and gage cocks have been treated under “Feed Water” in Chapter II. The Steam Gage. The steam gage indicates the steam pressure in the boiler in pounds per square inch. The cut shows the interior of the gage used on “Case” engines. The curved tube or Bourdon spring has an oval cross sec- tion, and when exposed to pressure from the inside, tends 107 108 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING to straighten, as a hose will do when under pressure. The free end of the Bourdon tube is connected to the hand FIG. 33. INTERIOR OF GAGE. or pointer by means of a seg- ment lever and pinion so that the pointer, which is on the same shaft as the pinion, revolves, in- dicating on the dial the pressure on the inside of the tube, which is the same as that in the boiler. The black dial with white fig- ures and graduations is pre- ferred by many on account of the ease with which the figures are seen at night. FIG. 34. SECTION OF SIPHON. The Steam-Gage Siphon. In order to prevent the temper of the tubeyor the gage from being drawn by the hot steam, a device, consisting of a bulb containing two small tubes is placed be- tween the gage and the boiler. The sectional view of this “‘siphon,” as it is called, shows a small tube extending upward to the top of the chamber, and another depending downward towards the bottom. The entering steam will be deflected to the bottom of the cham- ber where it is condensed, thus effect- ually preventing any live steam from entering the gage. THE BOILER 109 The stop-cocks that are placed in some steam-gage siphons should always be left open. The Pop Safety Valve. The safety valve opens when the pressure reaches a certain point, allowing the excess steam to escape and closes when the pressure has been reduced a few pounds. The valves are usually set at the factory to blow off at one hundred and _ thirty If a change of pressure be desired, un- screw the jam nut at the top and apply the key, pro- vided for this purpose, to the pressure screw. For more pressure, screw down; for less, unscrew. After having obtained the desired pressure, pounds. screw the jam nut down tight on the pressure screw. ‘To %, | iat Z ZZ ZL LLLaLLLLiLiLe ~z, L LAL Reh Z wh | KES FIG. 35. SECTIONAL VIEW OF POP VALVE. regulate the opening and closing action of the valve, take the pointed end of a file and apply it to the teeth of the regulator. If the valve closes with too much loss of boiler pressure, move the regulator to the right. This can be done when the valve is at the point of blowing off. IIo SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING The Blower. ‘The blower consists simply of a pipe leading from the boiler to a nozzle in the smoke-stack. In the pipe is a valve for shutting off the steam. On traction engines usually a rod is fitted to this valve, allowing it to be operated from the platform. The blower is intended for use only in raising steam, when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, its exhaust is dis- charged into the smoke-stack, creating what is known as “forced” draft, as distinguished from “natural” drait, which is due only to the height of the chimney. When an engine has been running and is temporarily shut down the blower should not be used unless the entire grate sur- face is covered with burning fuel. If the blower be used soon after shutting down and the grates are not entirely covered with burning fuel, cold air will pass through the dead places in the grates direct to the tubes, cooling them suddenly and rendering them liable to leak. The Fusible Plug, sometimes called the “safety-plug”’ or “soft-plug,” is intended to melt and prevent the crown- sheet from injury by low water. However, it cannot be entirely relied on, for the upper end is apt to get coated with lime or scale and render it useless. It should be taken out two or three times during the season and scraped clean, and a new plug should be put FIG. 36. 2 “anes rusinte rug im or the old one refilled at the beginning of IN : : i SECMON- each threshing season. In screwing the plug THE BOILER It! into the crown sheet, see that it goes in a sufficient dis- tance, so that the remaining lower end does not extend into the fire-box so far as to incur danger of its “melting out” when there is plenty of water in the boiler. The plug shown in Fig. 36 has no thread at the upper end so this cannot happen, but on some plugs the thread extends nearly the whole length. If a plug “melts out” in the field, it may be temporarily filled with lead or babbitt metal if no tin is to be had. Putty or moist clay will stop up the bottom of the hole while pouring. When cool, rivet it a little to be sure that it 1s tight. A shovel or long- handled iron spoon will serve to melt the metal if a ladle be not at hand. The melting point of lead is 610 degrees F., and of babbitt metal about 650 degrees F. A proper material for soft plugs is commercial tin, the melting point of which is about 450 degrees F., or an alloy of two parts of lead and one of tin, having a melting point of 440 de- grees F. Either will melt before the steel sheet is injured. In some places the law requires the use of Banca tin in fusible plugs. This metal has a melting point of 450 degrees F. Foaming. When a boiler is “foaming,” the water in the glass appears roily and the level changes rapidly, the glass appearing full one moment and nearly empty the next. Dirty water is usually the cause of foaming, alkali or soap in any quantity being especially bad. No one should be allowed to wash in the tank, as even a small amount of soap is liable to cause trouble. On account 112 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING of the soap used as a lubricant on the taps in manufacture, new boilers are liable to foam until they are washed out two or three times. It is difficult to tell exactly how much water there is in a foaming boiler, but it is probable that some of it is being drawn over with the steam, and there- fore, the pump should feed more than the usual amount. Do not run too long with a foaming boiler, but close the throttle occasionally to see how full the boiler is when the water settles. The remedy for foaming is to keep the boiler clean and to use clean water. Foaming often causes priming. Foaming and priming are more apt to occur with low than with high steam pressure. Priming. When water is drawn over into the cylinder with the steam, the engine is said to “prime.” ne \ \ Ve SSS ae = t =| ie seen LEZ ee Seal Y LJ) WB Le | NNN a ASSES SSS SNS SV RNNNNANNOO OY OO NSS \ LOWER __ b Sart S J CANNON BEARING t= . RS ASAD WOOOXV IY ipa Ss bg N, FY = 000000 clo f-aSS) —= fs =i FIG. 37. CUT SHOWING CANNON BEARINGS AND GEARING. many men argue that grease collects and holds sand which will cause cutting of gears. To prove the fallacy of this THE TRACTION GEARING 123 belief, however, it is only necessary to observe the gearing on engines which have been run by men of this opinion. In many cases, the gearing will be found more badly worn than its use would warrant. Engines for use in plowing or road work are sometimes provided with means for keep- ing a continuous flow of oil to the gears all the time the en- gine is moving. This is an excellent way to lubricate them and it greatly prolongs their wear. The Friction Clutch. The friction clutch is used to connect the engine to the traction gearing and wheels. By means of it, the engine may be made to travel as slowly as desired, while the engine proper is running at full speed. A general view of the Case clutch is shown in Fig. 38, with the names of the various parts thereon. An en- larged view of the hub portion is shown in Fig. 39. When the clutch § is in partial engage- \ ment, the shoes (Fig. PINION Tau aR 38) press lightly against : the rim of the fly-wheel, ; transmitting only part | ED A SEE, d{ 6 XD j ” ae SHOE eZ of its motion to the ——— gearing. But when in FIG. 38. FRICTION CLUTCH. I24 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING full engagement, the shoes press so hard against the rim of the fly-wheel that they prevent slipping, thus locking the fly-wheel and pinion together. The two shoes are hinged to the ends of thearm. This arm hasa long sleeve, which is loose upon the shaft, but at the end of which the pinion is firmly keyed. The sliding ring (Fig. 39), is loose upon the sleeve, and when moved toward the fly- wheel, straightens the toggle levers, thus pressing the shoes ens against the rim of SN OIL HOLES ) ; 7 i he My | NI yf WM ANA ff pf ff fp ff = ANARANNARARVASSESSY eg - HM AA CRXXVELEX.YH the fly-wheel. The sliding > r1;ngeueas moved by means of the trunnion ring which re- mains stationary, deep eile \ but allows the slid- MAOSLEEVE OF CLUTCH ARMRXXnnns “7 Se SSS MQ{_CPGG ZZ, CRANK SHAFT PINION 7 LL, JALLLL Lg, Qa : : SS ing ring to revolve within \ if; alta Ya N N trunnion ring is NN Qo) ARS SLIDING RING | : Yo TRUNION RING “4° CLAMP RING = held to the sliding FIG. 39. SECTION OF HUB ring by means of PORTION OF CLUTCH. the clamp ring. Adjusting the Clutch. The wear on the shoes is taken up by means of the turn-buckles in the toggle levers. They should be so adjusted that the toggle levers will just pass the straight line when the clutch is in engagement, thus relieving the trunnion ring of all side friction; they should also be so adjusted as to produce equal tension on THE TRACTION GEARING 125 both shoes, or undue friction will be produced on the slid- ing ring making the lever hard to handle. A good way to adjust the turn-buckles is to apply a large wrench to them, when the clutch is in engagement, and lengthen the toggle levers until the shoes are pressed hard against the rim. In this manner, the shoes can be given equal and sufficient pressure and when the clutch is drawn out of engagement, the shoes will clear the rim. Of course, the jam-nuts must be loosened before adjusting, and tightened after- wards. The inside end of the fly-wheel hub should touch the hub of the clutch arm, or the sliding ring cannot carry the toggle levers beyond the straight line. This happens when the fly-wheel has become loosened and worked to- wards the end of the shaft. The wooden shoes are easily replaced when worn out. Examine the clutch and see that it is properly adjusted before starting up or down a very steep hill. If it be in good order, it will not fail to do its work. Oiling the Clutch. When the engine is traveling, the entire clutch moves together, with the exception of the trunnion-ring. This, then, should be oiled when the en- gine is on the road. When threshing, the clutch remains stationary, while the shaft revolves within it. The long sleeve should then be oiled and also the end of the fly- wheel hub where it comes in contact with the end of the sleeve. There are eight or nine oil-holes in the sleeve, three of which are drilled between the teeth of the pinion. There is also an oil-hole in the upper trunnion of the trun- 126 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING nion-ring. The clutch sleeve is most liable to wear in plowing or hauling where the clutch is frequently used. In this class of work, the sleeve of the clutch-arm must be kept well lubricated. The Differential Gear. In order to have both traction wheels pull, when the engine is traveling either forward or backward, and at the same time allow one wheel to travel further than the other in turning corners, the differential gear is necessary. It transmits the power from the inter- mediate gear to the two counter-shaft pinions, which mesh with the spur gears on the traction wheels. The four bevel pinions are carried by the center casting, and mesh with two bevel gears, one of which is cast in one piece with the right-hand counter-shaft pinion (which is loose upon the shaft), and the other of which is keyed to the counter- shaft and dtives the left-hand counter-shaft pinion (which is also keyed to the shaft). It will be seen that when the engine travels straight ahead, both counter-shaft pinions turn with the shaft and the whole differential revolves as one piece. In turning corners, however, the bevel pinions revolve, permitting one of the counter-shaft pinions to re- volve faster than the other, thus allowing the traction wheels to accommodate themselves to the curve of the road. The differential spur wheel is a separate piece from the center casting, the power being transmitted from the rim to the center casting through coil springs, which relieve the gearing of the shocks of starting and stopping the en- gine. THE TRACTION GEARING 127 Locking the Differential. When both traction wheels have resistance, they pull equally, but if the engine be “jacked up” until one of them is off the ground and free to turn, then when the engine is started, the differential gear will allow the free traction wheel to revolve at twice its SPUR GEAR PP SPRINGS , “@- BEVEL PiNIONS BEVEL GEAR KEYED TO COUNTERSHAFT BEVEL GEAR WITH PINION FIG. 40. THE DIFFERENTIAL GEAR, SHOWING SPRINGS. usual speed, while the traction wheel on the ground will scarcely pull at all. Revolving at twice its usual speed means that the free traction wheel makes, for example, one revolution to nine of the fly-wheel, instead of, to the usual eighteen. Often, when one wheel is in a slippery place, it will spin around, while the other on solid ground remains still without pulling at all. To provide for such 128 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING emergencies, the hub of the left traction wheel is made so that a pin can be inserted and both wheels locked to the axle. ‘This, of course, makes both traction wheels revolve together, and prevents the differential gear from working. The engine must be steered straight when the lock-pin is used, or broken gearing is liable to result. Oiling the Differential. ‘There are several moving parts within the differential gear which should be oiled occasionally. ‘The bevel-pinions revolve about their shafts. An oil-hole is drilled through the center of each of these shafts to provide for oiling them, as shown in Fig. 40. ‘The center wheel turns on the hub of the left-hand or inside bevel-gear, when the differential-gear works, and accordingly it should be oiled occasionally through the hole provided for this purpose in the bevel-gear hub, as shown in Fig. 40, which applies to all except the 110 horse-power engine. The oil passes into a chamber, then along the groove and out through the radial holes to the journal. The oil also works farther along the groove and oils right- hand countershaft pinion where it turns on the shaft. On the 110 horse-power engine, there is no oil groove in the shaft. The oil holes in the hub of the inside bevel gear carry the oil direct to the bearing of the center wheel, and the right-hand countershaft pinion is provided with holes in its hub for oiling the shaft. The hub of the left-hand traction wheel turns upon the axle in turning corners, and therefore should be oiled occasionally. This is done by removing the cap-screws in the hub of the traction wheel. CHAPTER X WATER-TANKS vided with first-class water-tanks. A leaky tank is very apt to cause delay. One that is liable to break down may entirely cut off the water supply for a time. ‘The axles are wet much of the time and therefore, rot very fast and are apt to break without warning. Wait- ing for water for any cause should not be tolerated by the man in charge of a threshing outfit, and one whose duty it is to haul water should never allow the rig to be idle for lack of it. In localities where the farms are small and water may be had near at hand, one mounted tank does very well, as the platform tank (with which an engine is TT threshing outfit, to be complete, must be pro- usually equipped), will furnish the water while the mount- ed tank is being refilled. In localities where the water must sometimes be hauled a mile or more, two mounted tanks are generally used, or if only one be used, three or four barrels should be provided to use in addition to the platform tank. Engine Tenders. Engine tenders are convenient, es- pecially where most of the threshing is done around barns and it is necessary to back the engine more or less. The 9 129 I30 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING engine tender does what its name implies, that is, it keeps a good supply of coal and water near at hand. The Contractor's Fuel-Bunkers and Tanks are built for the purpose of serving as a tender, but they are mounted and carried on the engine itself instead of on separate trucks. They are attached to the axle cannon-bearing in the rear of the engine, in the same way as the common platform and tank, which they displace. This way of car- rying the fuel and water supply is more convenient than with a separate tender; besides, the weight being sup- ported on the rear axle, the engine has more tractive power for plowing or hauling. The contractor’s fuel bunkers are detachable from the tank and can be removed when firing with straw. The contractor’s fuel bunkers and tank may be attached, in the field, to any Case side-crank engine from 30 to 75 H. P. inclusive. They are always furnished on the tao: iP. size: Tank Pumps. At least one tank with each outfit should have a tank pump, with a capacity of about two bar- rels a minute. The pump is of use not only in filling the tank, but also in rapidly transferring water from it to the platform tank, engine tender, or barrels. When equipped with a sprinkling hose, it is also useful in washing out the boiler. CHAPTER XI HORSE-POWERS HE, horse-power, which, at one time, was the prin- ’ cipal means of driving threshing-machines, is still used to a considerable extent for this purpose. With a sufficient number of good, strong horses, this means of supplying the motive power for threshing is very satis- factory, and, owing to the fact that the investment involved in a horse-power outfit is considerably less than is required for a steam rig, it is probable that the horse-power will continue its usefulness in this industry for many years to come. The present style of metal-frame power is superior to the wood-frame because it is not subject to atmospheric conditions, which continually cause the swelling and shrink- ing of wood, disturbing the gearing. Starting a New Horse-Power. ‘The first thing to do in preparing a new power for work is to carefully clean the cinders from the oil-boxes. Next, oil each of the bear- ings and thoroughly grease all the gearing, turning the power by hand until the entire wearing surface is well lub- ricated. A new power should be run at least half an hour before being coupled to the separator or other machine to be run. If the horses be nervous, because unused to the 131 132 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING work, put a man with each team until they are accustomed to the noise and to traveling in a circle. Setting a Horse-Power. A horse-power, to work properly, must be securely held in position. To do this, it is necessary to use at least four stakes, each of which should be about three feet long. The power should be set in alignment with the separator so that the tumbling-rods are as straight as possible. As it is almost impossible to secure the power so that it will not shift slightly when started, it is best to make allowance for this when setting. The line of rods cannot be straight horizontally, as one end must attach to the spur-pinion shaft of the power and the other to the bevel-gear shaft of the separator, while the . second rod from the power must lie near the ground in or- der to allow the horses to walk over it. The angles in the line of rods necessary to meet these conditions are taken care of by the knuckles connecting them, but the angles should be carefully divided so that they are as slight as possible at each knuckle. When run at great angles, knuckles consume considerable power and cause excessive and: unnecessary work on the part of the horses. Lubrication of the Horse-Power. ‘There are two bull- pinion boxes (an upper and lower), and two center-boxes at each end, making eight boxes in all, to be oiled on the bull-pinion shafts. There are also two spur-pinion shaft boxes and the journals of the traverse-rollers to be oiled. All the gearing and the bottom and the top of the bull- HORSE-POWERS 133 wheel rim should be coated with good axle grease. When the grease becomes hard and caked with dirt, it should be cleaned off and fresh grease applied. Connecting the Equalizers. The following cut shows a top view of a fourteen-horse power with “‘sweeps,” braces oo {Ox FIG. 41. TOP VIEW OF POWER WITH SWEEPS ATTACHED. and equalizer-rods attached. In hooking the equalizer- rods, always hook the ends of two rods in the end ring of 134 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the chains. The ring near the center of each chain is merely a stop and the rods should never be hooked into it. Speed of the Tumbling-Rods. ‘The use of the sixteen- cog pinion, which gives one hundred and one revolutions of the tumbling-rods to one round of the horses, is recom- mended, and will ordinarily run the cylinder of a “Case” separator at the proper speed. The following table gives a complete list of spur-pinions for “Case” horse-powers, any of which may be obtained if desired. é 2 aa af, | abe oy : = | Bs | Ee8 | Beh | <3 z . _&§ woe 4o..oe ‘5.2 . 2 ae Sur 3 “Ss : os 414gW 133 15 107 267 241 Wood 4 W 143 16 101 252 227 Wood AUZW 133 17 95 230 214 Wocd 9 W 133 18 90 225 202 Wood 7 W 133 20 81 202 182 Wood AY, W 132 21 76 190 iG Wood 8 W 133 22 03 182 164 Wood 212W 1% 15 107 267 241 Iron A212W 1ly% 16 101 252 227 Tron 213W 1% ng 95 237 214 Iron A9W 1% 18 90 225 202 Tron ATW ly 20 81 202 182 Tron A&W 1% 22 73 182 164 Iron Separator Side-Gear. A separator must be fitted with a side-gear, or a jack must be used, in order to be driven by means of a horse-power. A speed of 750 revolutions HORSE-POWERS 135 for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder of “Case” separators fitted with a side-gear, requires a tumb- ling-rod speed of about 227 revolutions per minute. The required speed of the tumbling-rods is found, in each case, by multiplying the number of revolutions of the cylinder by the number of teeth on the cylinder-pinion and dividing the product by the number of teeth on the bevel-gear. For cylinder speed of 300 with the 20-bar separator for Beans, use Bevel Gear 5071T (47 teeth) and Pinion A5072T (25 teeth) and Spur Pinion ASW on horse-power. Jacks for Horse-Powers. Ordinarily, a separator in- tended to be driven by a horse-power is fitted with a side- gear. However, sometimes a belt machine is driven by a horse-power, and for this purpose a device is used to change the motion of the tumbling-rods into that of a pul- ley from which the separator cylinder may be driven by means of a belt. This device is called a “jack.” Whena “jack” is used to drive a belt machine, 40 feet of drive belt will be needed for 12 bariand! 60: feet“for a 20 ‘bar machine, to insure clearing “‘ironsides.” The “Case” jack has a bevel-gear (208T) with sixty teeth and a pinion (209T) with twenty-two-teeth. The pulley (206T) is sixteen inches in diameter and has a six-inch face. Adjusting the Iron-Frame Horse-Power. It is very important that the bull-pinions should mesh properly with the bull-wheel. When the bull-pinion shafts are correctly set, the bull-wheel will not have more than one-sixteenth 136 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING of an inch up and down play at any point. As the web between the upper and lower cogs of the bull-wheel varies in thickness, it is best to locate the thickest place and mark it. This part may be then turned between the bull-pinions and the shaft bearings adjusted so that the gears mesh as deeply as possible and at the same time allow the bull- wheel to pass freely between them. In building powers at the factory leather packing is placed between the box of the upper short bull-pinion shaft and the main frame. It is the intention to shave down this leather packing from time to time as the bearings wear, thus allowing the bull-pinions to be kept in proper mesh by means of set screws. The box of the lower short bull-pinion shaft has no leather be- tween it and the main frame; however, it can be set deeper in gear at any time by turning its set-screw from below. The main spur-wheel shaft is not adjustable and the set screws bearing against its boxes are used only to prevent them from becoming loose in their slots. Adjustable slides are placed above and below the bull-wheel. Those below have set-screw adjustment, and should be adjusted, as they wear, so that the bull-wheel just clears the lower : bull-pinions. The top slides prevent the up and down movement of the bull-wheel, and should be set down as they wear. ‘The traverse-rollers prevent the bull-wheel from crowding endwise on the bull-pinions. They should be set out by the key adjustment as they wear. The spur- pinion frame is secured by four five-eighths inch bolts in HORSE-POWERS 037 slotted holes. These allow adjustment of the pinion so that it may be made to mesh properly with the spur-wheel. These gears, when properly adjusted, should not have more than one-sixteenth of an inch clearance under the points of the teeth, and pinion shaft should be parallel with the spur-wheel shait. Caution Concerning the Bull-Pinion Boxes. ‘The bull- pinion boxes, 45W and 454%4W or 8144W and 8&1¥4W, have flanges which hook over the outside of the main frame, thus preventing them from crowding toward the center. When these boxes have been removed, care must be taken in replacing them to insure these flanges hooking over the outside of the frame, for if they be placed too far toward the center of the power, these flanges may come in contact with the box seat and prevent the bull-pinions from meshing as deeply as they should with the bull-wheel. ‘To prevent their getting loose, the large set-screws are locked by means of small set-screws, which bear against their threads. Removing the Shafts. To take out the spur-wheel shaft, remove the four bolts that secure the cross-pieces to the main frame, and drop them, together with the spur- pinion frame, to the ground. Next remove the four bolts securing the bull-pinion boxes and those securing the center boxes, after which the spur-wheel shaft may be taken out without disturbing the gears keyed to it. The short bull- pinion shafts have trunnion-boxes at their inner ends, 138 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING which permit movement sufficient to allow the shaxis to be removed. It is necessary to remove the wood piece with slide attached, which is on the rear axle. Reversing the Gearing. ‘The bull-wheel may be turned over, the short shafts interchanged and the spur- wheel shaft reversed (end for end), so that the teeth of all the gearing may be worn on both their faces. Reverse Motion of Tumbling-Rods. ‘The direction in which the tumbling-rods revolve may be reversed so that they turn in the same direction as that in which the horses walk, instead of turning, as usual, in the opposite direction. When reverse motion is necessary for driving machinery other than “Case” separators, the following extra pieces will be needed : one steady-bearing, 104W ; one short tumb- ling-rod, o125W; and one extra knuckle. To attach the parts, proceed as follows: First, bore a one and one-half inch hole in rear axle, two and three-eighths inches from its top and five and one-half inches from the center of the bolt holding the casting, 184W or 222W. Then bolt steady- bearing, 104W, on the inside of the axle with seven-six- teenths by four and three-fourths inch bolts. Next put the knuckle on the spur-pinion shaft and connect it with the short rod, o125W, which passes through the casting, 104.W, and through the hole in the axle. Attaching Truck-Brake to Iron-Frame Horse-Power. Put the brake pipe under the main frame with casting 210W, face down and on the right-hand side. The pipe HORSE-POWERS 139 is located between the two five-eighths inch hooks and rear wheel, the short ends of the hooks coming outside of the iron frame. In order to prevent the nuts from working loose, the ends of the hooks may be riveted. When this is done, casting 231W may be bolted on top of the flange of the main frame. A hole to receive it will be found on the front end of the power frame. Next insert the iron lever into its socket, 210W, and tighten the set-screws, which should not be tightened too much, or they will cause unnecessary strain on casting 21I0W. Put the ratchet in casting 232W with the hole down and with the notches turned towards the front. Then, put it in the notch that holds the brake from the wheels, and bolt it to the brake lever below. Place the brake-block casting, 208W, on the right end of the pipe and 209W on the left ; bring the blocks against the wheels and turn the set-screws up tight; then loosen and remove, and with a file or cold chisel, flatten a place on the pipe for the set-screws. This will prevent the pipe from turning in these castings. The pipe is coun- tersunk for the set-screws in 210W, these set-screws being tightened at the factory. The key with straps should be nailed to the driver’s platform. This is used to prevent the brake from dropping onto the wheels when not wanted. The brake is applied by the foot. Do not press the ratchet down harder than necessary. The Spur-Wheel and Bull-Pinion Shafts. ‘The key- seats of these shafts are cut in line with each other and 140 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING those in the bull-pinions and inside-pinions are cut with reference to one of their teeth so that when the pinions are keyed to the shaft, their teeth will be in line. It will be seen that if the shaft has been twisted so that the teeth of the pinions are even slightly out of line, the power cannot be made to run properly. A new spur-wheel shaft is the only remedy for such a condition. Work Done by Horses. ‘The sweeps of the twelve- horse-power and smaller sizes are twelve feet and seven inches long, and their ends move in a circle the circumfer- - ence of which is seventy-nine feet. ‘The sweeps of the fourteen-horse power are fourteen feet long, and their ends move in a circle, the circumference of which is eighty-nine feet. Horses ordinarily travel around the seventy-nine foot circle two and one-half times a minute, and around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-fourth times a minute, in either case covering about two and one-fourth miles per hour. ‘The term “horse-power” (the standard measure of power) is defined as the power necessary to raise 33,000 pounds one foot per minute. A horse walks two hundred feet per minute in traveling around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-quarter times per minute so that to do work equal to one “horse-power”’ it is necessary for it to pull only one hundred and sixty-five pounds, which is the quotient of 33,000 divided by 200. ‘This quotient does not allow for the friction of the machine. As the efficiency HORSE-POWERS I4I of the horse-power is about 80 per cent., each horse will pull about 200 pounds on the whiffletree. The Number of Horses. When desired for light work, the regular twelve-horse power with six sweeps may be used with only six horses by tying up equalizers on the empty sweeps and attaching teams to alternate sweeps, or by hitching a single horse to each sweep. In the same manner any of the other sizes of horse-powers may be used with half the usual number of horses. Since different numbers of sweeps are used the holes in the bull-wheel are marked with dots so that the brackets and end-supports for the sweeps may be easily placed in their proper positions. One of each of these castings should be first bolted to the holes with three dots near them for this set of holes is used with any number of levers. Bull-wheel 89W has the dots at the side of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses, and outside of the holes for eight horses. Bull-wheel 10W has the dots at the sides of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses and out- side of the holes for fourteen horses. 142 PARTS USED ON IRON 8 and 10 Wiand 14) | eno Horse Size | Horse Size |_W °° AI,ZW 414W'| Wood OVW | 212) Wilron 0122 W|0122 WiBoth 89 W 10 W\Both ASN VA 15 W/Both 90 W 16 W\Both 0121 W!0121 WiBoth i NN 43 WiBoth 0123 W|0124 W|Both 8114W 45 W{Both 814W 4514 W | Both 220 WI 182 Wilron 12k) Wi 830 Witron 122 WI 185 WilIron 97) Wi Ast. Wiiiron 188 WI| 188 WiIron 189 WI 189 Wiiron 1909 Wi] 190 WiIron D950 VL 9A) WiiTron 193 W193: Witron 218 Wi 218 WiIron 919) WV) 29) Witron 197 Wi 197 Wiliron 199 W} 199 WiIron 229 WI 202 WilIron 930. W1.203 Witron 204 WI 204 WiIiron DTA wR 214) Witron 215 WI 215 WiIron 216 WI! 216 Wilron 217 WI 217 Witiron 55 W 12 W/Wood 56 W 13. W{Wood 19 W 19 W {Wood 20 W 40 WiWood 48 W 48 W{|Wood 49 W 49 W\|Wood 50 W 50 W)|Wood 52 W 52 W\|Wood 75 W 75 WiWood T644W 7614 W| Wood 78 W 78 WIiWood 82 Wr 82 WI|Wood 163° X|. 163. XiWood Tames SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING AND WOOD FRAME POWERS. NAME OF PART Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion shait. Bull-wheel. Bull-pinion. Inside-pinion. Inside-pinion shaft. Spur-wheel. Spur-wheel shaft. Half bull-pinion box. Other half bull-pinion box. Cast frame for power. Rear-axle bracket, R. H. Rear-axle bracket, L. H. Top cap for bull-pinion box. Top slide holder. Top slide for bull-wheel. Bottom cap for bull-pinion box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft, R. H. Inside trunnion box for shait. Front support for spur-gear frame. Rear support for spur-gear frame. Support for short shaft, center-box, L. H. Support for short shaft, center-box, R. H. Support for bull-wheel slide, Rear. Support for bull-wheel slide, Front. Slide under bull-wheel. Spur-gear frame. Cap for spur-gear frame. Brake-wheel. Collar on spur-pinion shaft. Back support. Front support. Support for center-box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft. Cap for spur-gear frame. Back stirrup for spur-gear frame. Front stirrup for spur-gear frame. Spur-gear frame. Arch frame. Inside-box, inside-pinion shaft. Cap to hold bull-pinion box. Slide under bull-wheel. Brake-wheel. ST “WEaMOd ZNVYT NOU ASYOH-FI any eI dO MAIA ‘IVNOILOGS ‘eb ‘ory LEED jee a ae ara 10 PART I. SEPARATORS Page Starting and Setting a Separator......6.iccee: 147 The Cylinder, Concaves and Beater............. 5s fhe Straw-Rack and: Conveyor .s..<. ocbsce0cae 167 Tue Cleaning Apparatus. dss steeawiic sent ak woe 169 Threshing with a Regularly Equipped Separator .181 Threshing with a Specially Equipped Separator. .191 The Pulleys and Belting of a Separator......... 207 Lubrication and Care of the Separator.......... 219 Weeding: ‘the Separator, £.2. 26s Ole 6's) 0,4 a's)'sie's de «sie eee The Straw Stackers) ih ccs* te ceaaee SSS - = I a4 <= oa = : 4 aH . pt ; = —— ' itt os —~ a iz a ; ! y Sx OERO = a 1 i} yt G i> nl 1 ES \ ° ( Ano , cs 2 hs! 4 ? ey Tne i o\ A 4 7 hots —s UAT By fa ‘ 3 - v S piss fel ttl Mg ae, > 4 N he = a == Fs 3 & Wty a | i} rue eS = f ¢ it “oe ' H \ ous ¢ if! | ae KOE IE 33 aylnn nnn ne ee oo fh ce ere ere rn emt arwnse rena a tal EA Ea NO Oe ea eae a = ne a —J = CHAPTER ‘I STARTING'AND SETTING A SEPARATOR ON OME separators are shipped from the factory “set- up” with pulleys and all parts put on and all attach- ments in place. Others, for compactness, are shipped as they are stored, with tailings-elevator removed and tied on the deck, pulleys and other parts packed inside the machine, and the attachments ‘‘knock-down’’—that is, taken apart and small parts boxed. For ocean shipment, separators are taken apart so that all parts may be boxed. Setting Up. Insetting upa dismantled separator, care should be taken to see that all nuts and keys are properly tightened. The pulleys must be set in line to insure the belts running properly. The cuts showing belting ar- rangement will aid in placing the pulleys in their proper position. Ifthe box of parts contains a list of its contents, the names and numbers will also help in determining the position of each. ‘The crank-shaft which drives the straw- rack and conveyor should be put in with the long end to the right (when looking at the machine from the front). Starting a New Separator. A new machine should be set up and run an hour or so, before attempting to thresh any grain. Before putting on the belts, look into the ma- 147 148 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING chine on the straw-rack, conveyor and fan, then turn each shaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure there is noth- ing loose or misplaced. Be sure that the two bolts, one on each side, which fasten the conveyor-extension to the conveyor side-rails are perfectly tight; otherwise, this ex- tension will immediately begin to hammer itself and other parts to pieces. After the machine has been run awhile, take time to go over the bolts in the straw-rack, especially those holding the straw-rack extension to the straw-rack proper. Any attention paid to keeping bolts tight in vi- brating parts is time well spent. Oiling. ‘The oil boxes should be carefully cleaned of cinders and dirt that may have collected during shipment, and the paint removed from the oil holes. Screw down the plugs of the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes to the end of the threads, using a wrench, if necessary, to clean off the paint. Fill the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes with hard oil and fill oil cups on cylinder boxes with a good lubricating oil. It is best to first place a small quantity of wool or cotton waste in the bottom of each oil-cup. Connect the separator with engine or other power, running only the cylinder for a time, and feeling of the boxes to ascertain whether they show any tendency to heat. While the cylinder is running, oil both ends of the crank pitmans, and the four bearings of the rock shafts. Take off the tightener pulley from its spindle, clean the spindle and its inside oil-chamber and holes, and oil the STARTING AND SETTING A SEPARATOR 149 spindle before replacing it. Put on the belt driving beater and crank (see Fig. 46), which will put the beater, straw rack and conveyor in motion. Next oil the shoe-pitman eccentrics and the bearings of the shoe shaft if there be one. This shaft is driven from the fan on right side of machine (see Fig. 45). The fan belt, which runs over crank belt, but not under tightener (see Fig. 46), and the shoe belt may be now run on. Oil the moving parts as they run, occasionally screwing down the grease plugs on crank- and fan-shaft boxes. The chain of the tailings elevator should be adjusted so that it has slack enough to turn freely, but not enough to allow it to kink or unhook. After oiling the upper boxes and both bearings of the tail- ings auger and the four of the tailings conveyor, run on the elevator belt, which drives from the crank, crossed (see Fig. 45). Oil the bearings of the grain auger and put on its belt. This belt is used on the right-hand side and crossed for all grain elevators except the No. 4 bagger, which may be used on either side. When this bagger is used on the right-hand side, then the belt must be run straight on the left-hand side. This is also true when the machine has no grain-handler and only the tally-box is used. When all parts of the separator are in motion the bear- ings should be carefully watched to detect any tendency to heat, and this can best be done when the machine is run- ning empty, for the operator can then give it his entire 150 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING attention. ‘Ihe machine has been tested and left the fac- tory in good running order, but dirt and grit of shipment by rail is liable to cause trouble and it is best to make sure that all the bearings are oiled. It is of great importance that these bearings be well oiled on the first run, as they are somewhat rough, and consequently require more oil and a longer time for it to spread over the journals. Ojiling a shaft as it runs, allows the oil to work in and be distrib- uted over the whole bearing surface. It is well to use a mixture of two parts of machine oil to one of kerosene for the first oiling. This will clean out the bearings and leave them in good condition to receive oil. The machine should be again oiled with undiluted oil before threshing. When the machine has run for an hour or so and everything shown to be in good order, it is ready for threshing. After adjusting the concaves, check board, sieves and blinds, to suit the kind and condition of grain, according to the directions given elsewhere in this book, grain may be run through the machine. Setting the Scparator. ‘The separator may do good work if the rear truck wheels be a few inches higher or lower than the front wheels, but it must always be level cross-ways. Usea spirit level of good length on the rear axle and on the sills. A little practice or calculation will enable one to determine how deep a hole to dig in front of the high wheel in order to bring the machine level when pulled into it. Knowing the axles of the separator to be STARTING AND SETTING A SEPARATOR I51 about twelve feet apart, it is easy to calculate how much the front or rear wheels must be lowered to bring the ma- chine level. For example, if a spirit level two feet in length be used and the axles are twelve feet apart, then one axle must be lowered or raised just six times as much as the end of the level. If, when placed on the sills, the front end of the spirit level requires raising, for example, one- half inch, then the rear wheels must be lowered six times as much, or three inches, to bring the separator level. This method may also be used in determining the amount to lower one rear wheel to bring machine level crossways, which, as already stated, is more important than having it level lengthways. In this case, however, the amount in comparison with the amount shown by the level is different for each size of separator. ‘The hole or holes should be dug before the engine is uncoupled or the team unhitched, so that if not level, machine may be pulled out, the holes changed and the machine backed into them. When the machine is high in front, it can be quickly leveled, after engine or team has been removed, by cramping the front axle, digging in front of one wheel and behind the other, so that wheels will drop into the holes when pole is brought around square. With geared machines “bolster-jacks” are used to keep the “side-gear” from twisting front end of machine out of level. The hind axle being level, place the bolster-jacks in position, and screw them up so as to level the front of 152 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING machine. It is not necessary to have the front axle level, as the bolster-jacks will accommodate themselves to it. Place a block in front of the right-hand rear wheel to prevent the machine from being drawn forward by the belt. This block should be carried with the machine, so as to be handy when needed. When pulling the machine out of holes with a team, starting it on soft ground or on a hill, face or head the team around to one side, and it will move the load with about half the effort necessary to start straight ahead. In cramp- ing the front axle, but one of the hind wheels starts at a time. Setting with Reference to the Wind. ‘The thresher- man cannot always choose the direction in which to set the machine, but when he can, he should select a position in which the wind will be blowing in the same general direc- tion as that in which the straw is moving, and preferably a little “quartering,” as this keeps the men out of the dust more than when set straight with the wind. This posi- tion insures greater safety from fire in case wood or straw is used as fuel. In Case of Fire, the quickest way to move the machine away from the stacks is to pull it out by the belt. Take the blocks away from the wheels, place a man at the end of the pole to steer, and back the engine slowly. If the machine be in holes or soft ground, put men at the wheels to assist in starting. CHAPTER: il THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER T is the function of the cylinder and concaves to loosen the kernels of grain from the straw on which they grew. ‘The ends of the cylinder teeth travel about a mile a minute so that the grain in going through meets the concave teeth with considerable force. The concave teeth engage with the cylinder teeth in such a way that the grain heads cannot pass through without being broken and the kernels knocked out although the straw is in contact with the cylinder but a fraction of a second. If the teeth be in good condition and a sufficient number of rows of concave teeth be used to suit the work, practically all of the grain will be knocked out. Cylinder Teeth. When the cylinder is new or newly refilled, care should be taken to keep the teeth tight until they become fitted to their holes and firmly seated. The cylinder should be gone over two or three times during the first week, and each tooth driven in hard with a heavy hammer and the nuts tightened. Afterwards they should be gone over often enough to be sure that they are tight and will not bother while threshing. A light tap with the hammer on the side of the tooth will produce a sound which will easily reveal whether or not itis tight. Atthe factory, 153 154 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the teeth are driven in and tightened with a long-handled wrench and then driven in and tightened again, but they are liable to get loose the first few days unless special at- tention be paid them. If a tooth be allowed to remain loose for any length of time, the hole will become so mis- shapen that the tooth cannot be kept tight thereafter. The teeth should be kept straight, not only so they will not strike, but also so that they will pass at equal distances from the concave teeth on both sides. Cylinder Speed. It is very important that the cylin- der run at the proper speed. If run too fast, there is dan- ger of cracking the grain, and if run too slowly, it will not thresh clean. Then, too, the work of separation and clean- ing is very much easier if the cylinder runs at the proper speed and is never allowed to get below it. ‘The motion must be uniform if the best results be expected, for every time it is allowed to get much below or above the correct speed, the separator is liable to waste grain. With the regular pulleys, the large 20-bar cylinder of the Case sep- arator should run at 750 revolutions per minute to give the proper speed to the other parts of the machine. The regular speed of the small or 12-bar cylinder is 1075 revo- lutions per minute. In threshing tough rye or oats, the cylinder is subjected to more work, and often runs too slowly if attempt be made to maintain the normal speed, therefore, the cylinder should run faster than usual, say, 800 for the 20-bar and 1150 for the 12-bar, in order that the other parts of the machine may run fully up to their THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER I55 usual speed. Some grains and legumes require special cylinder speed for which a change in cylinder pulleys is desirable. These are given elsewhere in this book. MAIN CYLINDER PULLEYS. Number. | Diameter Face Bore MACHINE 5564T oO: a 154" 12-Bar Wood, Special. COLE, TIA" Bi % 15%" 12-Bar Special. 501T 814" Son 15%" 12-Bar Reg. 18” and 24”. SOLIAT 84" ag 17%” 12-Bar Wood, Regular. 1867T 84" ogee ive. 12-Bar Wood, Special. 861T 834" Bee 15%” 12-Bar Special. 5004T gy” 9 " 15%” 12-Bar Reg. 28”. 5005T 914" Oars 174" 12-Bar Wood, Special. 5006T 91" Geil QUA" 12-Bar Wood, Special. 500T 93%" ee 154" 12-Bar Regular. 5051T 1014" Oe 154" 12-Bar Rice. 5052T 104” o: 17%" 12-Bar Wood, Rice and Shredder. 5053T 10%" ede 21R" 12-Bar Wood, Rice and Shredder. 5441T 10. ” 914" Dae 20-Bar Special. 5367T 114%" 914" 215" 20-Bar Special. 53868T 12s gy” 216” 20-Bar Special. 5294T 1334" is oie. 20-Bar Regular. A5294T 143," gy" 275" 20-Bar Special. 5440T 15%" 9144" 275" 20-Bar Special. 5369T 165" 914” 275" 20-Bar Rice. 5372T 20.7 ie 275" 20-Bar Peas and Beans. Ascertaining Cylinder Speed. "The best way to as- certain the speed is by means of a revolution counter, but if one be not at hand, the speed may be found by count- ing the number of times the main drive belt goes around ina minute. To do this, multiply the required speed of the cylinder by the circumference of the cylinder pulley in inches and divide by 12 to reduce to feet. Dividing by the length of the belt in feet will give the required number 156 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING of times belt should go around ina minute. For example: If cylinder be a 20-bar, its speed should be 750 and the regular pulley 5294T for this is 13% inches in diameter or 42 inches in circumference. Multiplying 750 by 42 gives 31,500 inches as the product. Dividing this by 12 to re- duce to feet gives 2625 feet per minute as the required travel of the belt. If this be 120 feet long, dividing by 120 gives 22 (nearly) as the required number of rounds of the belt per minute. With a 150 foot belt, the number of rounds will be nearly 18 or with 160 foot belt 17 (nearly) rounds. In the same manner, the required number of rounds can be figured for any cylinder speed, cylinder pul- ley or length of belt. Cylinder Boxes. ‘The cylinder boxes are the most im- portant bearings on a separator and they must receive a certain amount of attention or there will-be trouble. All Case cylinders are fitted with ball and socket self-aligning boxes, which practically eliminate all possibility of their heating from improper alignment. The boxes on 20-bar cylinders are about eight inches long, allowing a good bear- ing surface for these large cylinders and all are fitted with oil cups which hold a sufficient quantity of oil to amply lubricate the bearings. The chapter on “Lubrication and Hot Boxes” should be read with special reference to the cylinder boxes. To Take “End Play’ Out of the Cylinder. Loosen lower half of housing of box by slacking the nuts which THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER 157 secure it, and slide it against hub of cylinder head. The holes in the ironsides are slotted to allow for this end adjustment and also to permit the moving of the cylinder in case the cylinder teeth do not come exactly between the concave teeth. Do not crowd cylinder box so hard against the cylinder head as to cause danger of heating. It is best to leave about 1-64 of an inch end play. Tracking of Teeth. All regular Case 20-bar cylinders have five teeth which pass in the same space between the concave teeth, during one revolution, “five teeth tracking” as it is called. The 12-bar cylinders have three teeth tracking. Cracking Grain. ‘The cut on the following page is full size and shows the actual distance between the concave and cylinder teeth of the Case regular cylinder. It is shown to emphasize the importance of having the cylinder properly adjusted endwise and of keeping the teeth straight. Sup- posing all the teeth to be straight and that the cylinder be moved 1-16 of an inch to one end. Then instead of there being 1-8 of an inch space between the cylinder and con- cave teeth on both sides, the cylinder teeth would be 3-16 of an inch from the concave teeth on one side and only I-16 of an inch from them on the other. This condition of affairs would allow the heads to slip through without being threshed on one side of the teeth and on the other would crack the grain and cut up the straw, thereby con- suming much power, increasing the difficulties of separa- ' | |e Hi ) Bo. ’ 1 | ‘ 1 HOM ITA cb al rE are ———— ae es | INSIDE CYLINDE ! ) R BAR I I 1 tik ches I CONCAVE TOOTH A \\\ oo All FIG. 44. CUT SHOWING SPACE BETWEEN TEETH—FULL SIZE. THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER 159 tion and making the sieves handle a large amount of chaff. This same condition exists when all of the teeth are more or less bent. The cylinder may be moved endwise, as al- ready explained, to give the proper spaces between the teeth, but the teeth must be kept straight. Too high speed or too many concave teeth may cause cracking. Special Cylinders. ‘To do good work in rice a special cylinder and concave are required with a wider spacing of the teeth than the regular ones. This gives more clear- ance between the cylinder and concave teeth and, together with a reduced speed, prevents the cylinder from cracking the rice. A special cylinder and concaves are also made for threshing peas, beans and peanuts. Either of these special cylinders may be put in any Case separator if the concaves and concave circles be changed also. Further information regarding threshing rice, peas, beans, peanuts, etc., is given elsewhere in this book. Balancing Cylinders. On account of the high speed at which cylinders run, they must be accurately balanced or they will not run smoothly. It is essential in balancing a cylinder that the weights used for this purpose be placed where the deficiency of weight exists. The shop practice is to rest the journals of a cylinder on level ways and put weights under center bands until the cylinder will stand at any point onthe ways. ‘The cylinder is then put in a frame having narrow, loosely fitting wooden boxes and run at a high speed. ‘The parts of the journals extending beyond 160 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the boxes are marked as it runs. These marks show the initiated at which end and at what point to drive the weights used in the final balancing. A cylinder may be balanced, though not as perfectly as is done at the factory, by resting it on ways made by placing two carpenter’s squares on wooden horses. The squares should have blocks nailed on each side to keep them on edge, and should be carefully leveled both ways. Place the cylinder near the center of the ways and roll it gently. Mark with a piece of chalk the bar that is uppermost when it comes to rest. Repeat, and if cylinder stops in the same position three times in succession, drive a wedge under center band at the chalk mark. Rub off the marks and repeat until the cylinder comes to rest at any point. Care should be taken not to mar the journals in placing them on the ways. The cylinder may be out of balance by lack of the full number of teeth. The Concaves. All that has been said about keeping the cylinder teeth tight applies also to the concave teeth. They should be driven in and tightened as often as neces- sary, until they are firmly seated. In driving them in, it is necessary, however, to use some judgment, as the con- caves are of cast iron and are liable to split if the teeth are driven in too hard. Setting the Concaves. ‘The concaves should be ad- justed to suit the kind and condition of grain. Four rows of teeth are usually required for wheat and barley, but for THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER 161 damp grain six rows will be necessary. Rye can usually be threshed with two rows, but the cylinder speed should be higher than for wheat. Oats when dry can generally be threshed with two rows of teeth, but flax and timothy will require six rows. Where four are used, they are most effective if one concave be placed clear back and one in front with a blank in the center. In hand feeding, if the straw be dry and brittle, the cylinder can be given more “draw” by placing a blank in front. Always use as few teeth, and leave them as low as is possible and thresh clean. When too many teeth are used, or when they are left higher than is necessary, the straw will be cut up, the grain may . be cracked and, besides using more power, the separation is made much more difficult, and the sieves are obliged to handle an unnecessarily large amount of chopped straw. It is better to use two rows set clear up than four rows left low. Sometimes a row of teeth is taken out of a concave, making it possible to use one, three or five rows. Special Concaves. Some grains, as for example, Tur- key wheat, are extremely difficult to thresh from the head, and if it be found that the regular six rows will not thresh clean, a three-row concave, filled with corrugated teeth, should be procured. This, with two regular concaves, will give seven rows of teeth. Should it be necessary, two, or even three, three-row concaves of corrugated teeth may be used. The three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are usually used for threshing alfalfa, but for clover, the 11 162 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING special clover concaves are necessary. Information con- cerning them is given elsewhere in this book. Adjustment of Concaves. Inthe left side of the “iron- sides,” or cylinder side castings, of the wood 12-bar sep- arator, there are screws, which press against the concave circle and take up the end play of the concaves. ‘The steel and 20-bar wood machines have screws in both ironsides. When it is desired to change the concaves, raise them up and drop them down a few times to jar out the dust and dirt which has become lodged between concave circles and ironsides, wedging them tight. With concaves in their lowest position, place a stick of wood, the tooth straight- ener, or anything else that may be handy, between concave and cylinder teeth and raise the concaves so that the teeth cannot pass. Then roll the cylinder backward, striking the concaves several times with the momentum of the cyl- inder if necessary, until they are jarred loose and come up with the cylinder, as it is rolled backward by hand. The screws mentioned above may be loosened if necessary, but if they be, it should be done on one side only so as not to disturb the adjustment. Caution Concerning the Cylinder. When the separa- tor is belted to an engine, one should make sure that the engineer has closed the throttle, opened the cylinder cocks, and (if the engine be a traction) that the reverse-lever is in the center notch before changing concaves, fixing teeth or otherwise handling the separator cylinder. THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER 163 The Beater. In threshing very heavy, tough grain, if the straw be inclined to wrap the beater or if it tends to follow the cylinder around too far, the beater may be raised by taking out the blocks from between the beater boxes and the girt to which they are fastened on wood sep- arators or by moving the girts to the upper holes on steel machines. ‘There is also provision in the girts for moving the beater back to give more room between beater and cross-piece, but it is very seldom necessary to move it. The speed of the beater is four hundred revolutions per minute and as its bearings are provided with hard-oil cups, a little attention will keep them in good running order. The Grates. A large percentage of the grain is sep- arated from the straw by the grates through which it is thrown with all the force acquired from the cylinder. The grate under the beater is adjustable and should usually be kept as high as possible for the separation is better when it is high. It should never be lowered unless absolutely necessary. The Check Board should usually be kept quite low to prevent the grain from being thrown to the rear of the ma- chine on top of the straw, where it might be carried out of the machine without being separated. 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They are more accurately balanced when the machine is in operation and both are loaded than when the machine is running empty. It is very difficult to separate grain from straw that is badly cut up, therefore care should be taken to use as few rows of concave teeth as will thresh clean from the heads. Speed. ‘The most important factor in producing good work by the straw-rack is the speed. ‘To do good work, it must make 230 vibrations per minute. Its speed can best be determined by using a revolution-counter on the crank shaft. Some persons can determine the speed by letting one of the pitmans or a key of one of the crank shaft pulleys strike one hand once every revolution, while holding a watch in the other hand and counting for a half ora full minute. The proper speed is as essential to good work by the conveyor sieve or “chaffer’” as by the straw- rack ; if too fast, grain will go over the sieve with the chaff, and if too slow the sieve will be overloaded. The present style of straw-rack has riser supports, 167 168 SCIEN CE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING which prevent the risers from sagging in the middle. (See Fig. 43). Fish-backs are nailed to the straw-rack risers, two on the second riser (from the front), three on the third and four on the fourth. The fish-backs aid mater- ially in separation. A Special Straw-Rack called the “Oregon” straw-rack is made for use where the straw is badly cut up or so short owing to the grain being headed that most of it passes through the regular rack. Parts can be furnished for making the regular rack into one of the Oregon style. Pounding. ‘The crank-boxes and pitmans should be kept adjusted so that the machine does not make a knock- ing or pounding noise. The maple boxes on the straw- rack and conveyor are inexpensive and should be replaced when worn out. ‘The pitmans shorten as they wear, and this, with the wear of the crank boxes, sometimes allows the rear vibrating arms to drop nearly to their dead-centers. This causes the machine to run hard, pound badly, and is liable to break the vibrating arms. The rear vibrating arms may be prevented from dropping too low in three ways: first, by moving the crank-shaft ; if the frame be of wood, the crank boxes may be moved forward by putting leather between them and the post; second, by lengthening pitmans by putting leather over worn surface at ends or by getting new and longer pitmans; and third, by moving the rock-shaft boxes to the rear. This last method is the most difficult and should it be attempted, care must be taken to move all the boxes exactly the same distance. CHAPTER IV, THE CLEANING APPARATUS HE, fan and sieves separate the grain from the chaff. It is in the handling of these, which constitute the “cleaning apparatus,” more than any other part of the separator, that the skill of the operator or separator “tender,” as he is called, shows itself. The local reputa- tion of any particular machine is largely due to its record as‘a cleaner.” The Fan Blinds. ‘The position of the fan blinds regu- lates the amount of wind:or “blast” that the fan produces. These should be adjusted to clean the grain without blow- ing it over and this adjustment can be made while the ma- chine is running. Both upper and lower blinds should be partly open. The right-hand blinds affect the left side of the sieve and vice versa; therefore, if grain is being blown over on one side, the blinds on the opposite side should be closed a little. Use as much wind as possible without blowing over grain. In windy weather it is necessary to close the blinds on the windward side of the machine more than those on the other side. The blast is retarded by the volume of chaff it is moving, hence heavy feeding, and a blast that is all right when the cylinder is kept full, will 169 170 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING carry over grain when the machine runs empty. Steady feeding is therefore important on this account and the separator tender should let the pitchers understand that he cannot produce the best results without their aid, in keeping an even and continuous stream of grain going into the cylinder. The Wind-Board is placed in the machine so that the blast from the fan will strike the conveyor sieve about half way back. ‘The strongest part of the blast will then pass through the shoe sieve near the front end which gives it a cleaning capacity its entire length. If the wind board be- comes bent or sagged so that it stands but little above the floor of the shoe, the grain will slide over it into the fan, and then be thrown clear out of the machine. To prevent the liability of this, belts or “traps” should not be kept in the fan drum. Fan Speed. ‘The speed of the fan for 12-bar separator should be about 470 and for the 20-bar about 485 revolu- tions. Sieves. "The function of all sieves is to assist the fan in separating the grain from the chaff and in preventing heads and other heavy objects larger in size than the grain from mingling with the clean grain. Sieves are distinguished from screens in that the grain being cleaned passes through them while it passes over a screen. Adjustable Sieves. 'To obviate the delay and trouble of changing sieves each time the machine threshes a dif- THE CLEANING APPARATUS I71I ferent grain, adjustable sieves have been constructed in which the size of the openings may be changed to suit the kind of grain or seed. This adjustment may be made while the machine is running. All Case separators are regularly fitted with an adjustable conveyor-sieve, commonly called the “‘chaffer,”’ adjustable conveyor-extension and adjusta- ble shoe-sieve. The latter should be placed in the shoe with the rear rod in the fourth hole and the front end high enough to leave only an inch between it and the heel board of the shoe. The Conveyor-Extension or Chaffer-Extension carries the coarse chaff from the conveyor sieve to the stacker. The conveyor sieve should be so adjusted as to let all the good grain through because that which goes to the exten- sion and drops through it is returned with the tailings to the cylinder. The conveyor-extension should be coarser than the conveyor sieve so as to allow all the unthreshed heads to pass through. If they pass over it they are lost. The present style of adjustable conveyor extension is hinged to the rear of the conveyor sieve and also fastened to the conveyor side-rails. By loosening the bolts which hold it to the side rails this extension may be lifted out of the way to get at shoe sieves. Common Sieves is the name given to non-adjustable sieves and includes the lip, the round-hole, the oblong-hole and the woven-wire sieves. Fig. 48 shows the nine positions or notches, in which a 172 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING sieve may be placed at the fan end of the shoe, and they are numbered, beginning at the top. It also shows the six positions for the rod at the rear end and these are also numbered from the top. To Insert Common Steves place a long rod in the bot- tom of slots, leaving nuts loose. The rods at fan end of sieve are about 114 inches longer than those at rear end. In changing from one sieve to another it is not necessary to remove the rod at fanend. Slide in the sieve and put FAN END a short rod in the proper hole at rear. Adjust sieve to proper position at front end and tighten the nuts. If two sieves are to be used put the top one in first with rod in bottom of the slots. Raise it up to proper position, then put rod for lower sieve in the slots and slide it in below the other. The rod of upper sieve cannot be tightened until lower sieve is in place. Insert pins in the holes to hold it up while putting in lower sieve. Screw the nuts up quite tightly, but not so much as to cause the sieves to buckle. THE CLEANING APPARATUS 173 Twenty-penny wire nails may be used as pins in adjusting sieves. Screens. A screen removes particles smaller than the grain or seed being threshed, such as weed seeds, sand, or other foreign matter which is generally valueless. Some- times, however, a useful seed, such as timothy is screened out of one of the large grains, as wheat. In general, for weed seeds that are approximately round, the round hole are better than the oblong hole screens. However, the lat- ter are the only ones that will take out “cheat’’ which is often found in wheat. The screen lies in the bottom of the shoe and is held in place by hooks with thumb nuts which engage castings fastened on the frame of the screen. When a screen is used the removable strip in the bottom of the shoe must be taken out to allow the screenings to fall to the ground. All screens are liable to become clogged and in this condition obstruct the passage of the grain and wind. They should therefore be kept clean and only used when necessary. ‘The list of screens is given on page 172 and they are illustrated on page 173. The Tailings Elevator returns to the cylinder for a second threshing the unthreshed heads and all trash dropped through the straw-rack which is too coarse to fall through the sieves and too heavy to be blown out by the blast. It consists of an elevator (with cups or flights carried on sprocket chain), into which the tailings are de livered by an auger (called the tailings auger) and a spout 174 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING LIST OF COMMON SIEVES AND SCREENS. Conveyor sieve, 2 in. lip, shown below. 02600T to 02607T. Conveyor or oat sieve, 1% in. lip, shown below. .02610T to 02617T. Oat sieve, 34 in. lip, shown below. 02620T to 02627T. Wheat sieve, 34 in. lip, shown below. 02630T to 02637T. Wheat sieve, 22 in. round hole, page 175. 02770T to 02777T. Flax sieve, 32 in. round hole, page 175. 02720T to 02727T. Cheat screen, spec., 76x34 in. oblong hole, page 175. 02730T to) 0273a. Cheat screen, reg., ~,x% in. oblong hole, page 175. 02640T to) 026470: Timothy sieve, vs in. round hole, page 175. 02650T to 02657T. Alfalfa, #: in. round hole, page 175. 02670T to 02677T. Cockle screen, % in. round hole, page 175. 02680T to 02687T. Pea screen, %sx34 in. oblong hole, page 175. 02690T to 02697T. Wheat: sieve, 41%4x4% mesh wire, page 175. Clover sieve, 12x12 mesh wire, page 175. 02880T to 02837T. Timothy sieve, 16x16 mesh wire, page 175. 02840T to 02847T. Orchard-grass sieve, #2x% in. oblong hole, page 175. 02740T to 02747T. Pea screen, %x34 in. mesh wire, page 175. Dodder screen, gy in. round hole, page 175. 02810T to 02817T. Clover sieve, rz in. round hole, page 175. 02780T to 02787T. NoteE:—The above sieves are used for many other grains and seeds, but the few mentioned will serve to identify and explain the nature of the sieves. PoArmoON pp KMS GHAO NOZAE 2’ Lip Sieve “D” 114” Lip Sieve “E” 34” LipSieve “F’ 36” Lip Sieve “G” FIG. 49. LIP SIEVES. (Reduced.) | Fey % 3z" Round Hole “I.” #5” Round Hole “N.” sx?” Oblong Hole “K.” j4x3” Oblong Hole“L.” i a @ 16x16 Mesh Wire"T.” 12x12 Mesh Wire“R.” $x4}" Mesh Wire“Q.” FIG. 50. SIEVES AND SCREENS. (Full Size.) 176 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING to carry the tailings from the end of the elevator to the cylinder. This spout has an auger on most separators and it is then called the “tailings conveyor.” The tailings elevator is driven from the crank-shaft with a crossed belt so that the chain carries the tailings up the lower pipe. The speed of the drive shaft at top is 185 revolutions per minute and the upper and lower sprockets having the same number of teeth, the tailings auger also runs at this speed. Oiling Tailings Elevator. The boxes to be oiled on tailings elevator are the two of the shaft at the upper end, the one bolted to “‘boot’’ at lower end and its mate, which is at the other end of the auger on opposite side of separa- tor. The tailings conveyor has two bearings for the small cross-shaft and one at each end of auger. These should be frequently oiled and the bevel gears kept greased. Adjusting Chain of Tailings Elevator. ‘The boxes at the upper end of the elevator have slotted holes to allow them to be moved for tightening the chain carrying the cups. Set-screws with long threads aid in adjusting the boxes and in holding them in place. ‘The chain should be kept tight enough to prevent it from unhooking, but it should have slack enough to run freely. Unlike the Grain Handlers, one or any number of links may be taken out to shorten it. The short chain driving the tailings conveyor is tightened by lowering the brackets supporting it, the holes in which are slotted for this purpose. To Put Chain in Tailings Elevator. Tie a weight to THE CLEANING APPARATUS Ea the end of a rope and drop it down the lower part of eleva- tor. Untie the weight and tie the rope to end of chain, and while one man is pulling on the rope from above let another feed the chain in from below. When chain ap- pears at the top, drop the rope down the upper part of the elevator, and when chain is started around the upper sprocket, pull the rope from below and feed it in as before to bring it to its proper place. Hook the chain at bottom, see that it is on the sprocket, and tighten by means of ad- justing screws at the top. Turn the pulley at top of ele- vator by hand until the chain has gone once around to in- sure its being free from kinks. The Tailings are a good indication of the work the sieves are doing. ‘They should be small in amount and contain no light chaff and very little plump grain. If too much good grain be returned with the tailings, ascertain if it comes over the shoe sieve or through the conveyor extension. If it be passing over the shoe sieve, probably this sieve is overloaded with chaff, as is sometimes the case when the straw is badly cut up. To remedy this, the con- veyor sieve should be partly closed to let less straw through. If, however, the good grain is going over the conveyor sieve and through the conveyor extension, the remedy is just the reverse, that is, the conveyor sieve should be opened. ‘The adjustment in separators with lip sieves is made by bending the lips, but as a usual thing, they should be at about a forty-five degree angle. Grain returned in 12 178 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the tailings is apt to be cracked by the cylinder, and when the tailings are heavy this is sometimes of importance. If very much chaff is returned it increases the difficulties of separation, and must be handled by the sieves again. In all cases have as few tailings as possible. The Wastein Threshing. 'Thereis not a machine built at the present time that will save every kernel in all kinds and conditions of grain. The Case will separate the grain from the straw better than any machine made, but to ac- complish the best results it must be properly operated. When one detects a machine wasting grain, he usually imagines that the quantity wasted amounts to many times more than it actually does. If a stream of wheat as large as that which runs out of a grain-drill tooth were discov- ered going into the straw the farmer would probably say that the machine was wasting half the grain. Yet he knows that he must drive very fast to get a bushel and a half of wheat through each grain drill tooth in a day. Roughly speaking, there are 600 handfuls or a million ker- nels of wheat in a bushel.* This amount wasted in ten hours indicates that a handful or 1700 kernels is being wasted every minute. If farmers realized the economy of finishing a job as quickly as possible, irrespective of the *In the “Thresher World” contest of August, 19)3, the bushel of wheat was actually counted and found to contain 869,762 ker- nels. In the “Canadian Thresherman’” contest of 1908, fifteen pounds of No. 1 Northern wheat were found to contain 257,885 ker- nels, or at the rate of 1,031,540 kernels per bushel. In the 1909 “Canadian Thresherman” contest the No. 2 Northern wheat counted showed the number of Kernels per bushel to be 1,008,089. THE CLEANING APPARATUS 179 grain lost, they would not attach so much importance to the small amount ordinarily wasted. However, it is true that any separator will waste con- siderable grain if improperly operated. When there is reason to believe that a machine is wasting more than it should, first determine whether the grain is being carried over in the chaff or in the straw. If the Waste be at the Shoe, catch some of the chaff from the conveyor sieve and if grain be found, see that the sieve is properly adjusted for the kind of grain being threshed. Ifa common sieve be used, it should be coarse enough for the grain and its lips should be sufficiently bent open. ‘Too high a speed will cause grain to be carried over the conveyor sieve. Do not use any more concave teeth .than are necessary as the extra amount of chaff makes aificult work for the sieves. See that the blinds are ad- justed so that the blast is no stronger than is necessary to clean the grain and keep the sieves working freely. If grain be still detected, open the adjustable conveyor sieve a little more. It should not be opened so much, however, as to overload the shoe sieve. The wind-board should throw the strongest blast about half way back on the con- veyor sieve. Carrying “traps” in the fan drum is liable to bend down this board which in some cases becomes so sagged that some kernels slide over it into the fan, are struck by the fan wings and thrown entirely out of the machine 180 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING If waste be caused by failure to separate the grain from the straw, first see that the speed of the crank is 230. The cause may be poor feeding which produces “slugging” of the cylinder and the resultant variable motion. See that the check-board is properly adjusted. The cylinder and concave teeth must be kept in good order so that the grain will all be threshed from the heads and the straw cut up as little as possible. When heads missed by the cylinder are threshed out by the wind stacker fan the machine is often criticised for poor separation when the trouble is ac- tually caused by a neglected cylinder and concaves. Why tt is dificult to separate grain from straw. Straw and grain to the full capacity of the cylinder pass through the concave teeth at the rate of about one mile (5280 feet) per minute, and after passing the check-board the straw rack moves the straw about 102 feet per minute. At these speeds the straw passes the length of the machine (about 15 feet) in approximately ten seconds. The intermingled straw and grain move in the same direction and at the same rate of speed. The problem of separation is, then, to check and divert the course of the grain, at the same time allowing the straw to continue its passage through the ma- chine. If the grain be not interrupted in its course, it will pass out with the straw, while clogging will result if the movement of the straw be arrested for even a second. GHAR T ER. THRESHING WITH A REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR HIS chapter will deal with the threshing of those : grains and seeds which may be successfully handled by a regularly equipped separator. It will include ' the threshing of wheat, rye, oats, barley, flax, buckwheat, millet and speltzoremmer. Those grains and seeds which cannot be threshed successfully without special attach- ments, or additions to a regularly equipped separator, will be treated separately in the following chapter. Headed Grain. The bulk of the grain grown at the present time is cut by harvesters and is delivered to the threshing machine in bundles. There are localities, how- ever, in which all, or nearly all, the grain is cut by headers and delivered to the separator loose. Bound grain is sup- posed to be fed to the cylinder, “heads first,” and when so fed, the work of the cylinder is made easy as the straw holds the heads while the grain is being knocked out of them. This cannot be the case with headed grain, as usu- ally but little straw is left on the heads, because, to keep the bulk small, the header is run just low enough to get the heads. Other things being equal, headed grain is, 181 182 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING i. then, harder to knock out of the heads than bound grain, but no trouble is experienced with the “Case” separator in headings, if the cylinder and concaves be in good condition. Most of the grain raised on the Pacific coast is headed, and a special feeder, known as the “Spokane Feeder,” is used, usually in connection with derrick-forks. In the more eastern headed grain districts, the mounted feeder carrier is used as an extension to the regular bundle feeder. Threshing Wheat. Ordinarily, it is not difficult to do good work in threshing wheat with a separator which is in good condition. To get the best results, the cylinder, es- pecially, should be in good repair and it should maintain a uniform speed. The speed should be fully up to the regu- lation, 750 revolutions for the twenty-bar cylinder or 1075 revolutions for the twelve-bar cylinder. Usually the ordi- nary varieties of wheat can be threshed with four rows of concave teeth. Before concluding that more are required, see that the teeth are in good condition, and that the cylin- der fully maintains the given speed. It is generally ad- mitted that four rows of concave teeth are more effective if a blank concave be placed between the filled concaves, and that the straw is less cut up if the filled concaves be placed together, but some good operators do not agree with the former statement. However, with this in mind, it will not be difficult for an operator to determine which arrange- ment is best suited to the particular conditions under which his machine is at work. Good operators judge by the THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 183 work the machine is doing, what changes in the adjustment or arrangement of concaves or in the speed, will improve the work. For example, if the wheat be thoroughly knocked out of the heads and there be an excessive amoznt of chaff and chopped straw, it would be well to see if the kernels could still be threshed clean from the straw if the concaves were lowered a notch or two, or perhaps one filled concave replaced by a blank or else the speed lowered slightly. If any of these changes were made, the work of the machine as a whole would be improved, for separation and cleaning are made easier by reducing the amount of chopped straw. With certain conditions of the straw, in which the heads are easily broken off, it may be best to use a cast con- cave in place of the wrought grate, if the first concave breaks off the heads and they fall through the grate blank before the second concave can get action on them. If whole heads are found passing over the conveyor try an unfilled concave in place of the wrought blank. The adjustable-chaffer, chaffer-extension and shoe- sieve can be best adjusted while the machine is running, the operator noting how much chaff each is handling, how the wheat is cleaned and the amount of tailing being re- turned, as explained in Chapter IV. The adjustable shoe- sieve should be placed at, or very near, the top, at the fan end and in the fourth hole from the top at the rear end. When the separator is equipped with common sieves, 184 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the two-inch lip sieve, D, should be used as a chaffer. Or- dinarily, the three-eighths inch lip sieve, G, will do nice work as a shoe sieve, and it will remain clean with little or no attention. It should be placed in the second notch at the fan end and third hole at the rear,—from the top in both cases. When “ white-caps,” (as kernels with chaff adhering to them are called) are numerous, the fifteen- sixty-fourths inch round-hole sieve, H, is the best for re- moving them. It should be placed in the second notch and third or fourth hole. Sometimes these two sieves are used together, in which case the former sieve, G, should be placed in the first notch and third hole and the latter, H, in the fifth or sixth notch and the fifth hole. For a cheat screen, either the one-fourteenth by one- half inch oblong hole, L, (regular), or the one-sixteenth by three-eighths inch, K, is suitable, depending upon the size of the kernels of wheat. For cockle, the five-thirty- seconds inch round hole screen, I, is the right size. Turkey Wheat. Some varieties of wheat, such as the “Turkey,” which is raised extensively in Oklahoma, is very difficult to knock out of the heads and often six rows of concave teeth will not thresh it clean from the straw. In this case, one or more three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are necessary. For such grain, the cylinder speed should be kept fully up to the stated number of revolutions or even higher, in which case pulley 5582T should be used as explained for barley. THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR I85 Threshing Rye. Rye is more easily knocked out of the heads than wheat, and usually two rows of concave teeth are sufficient. When damp, the straw is tough and as it is long, it tends to wrap on the cylinder and beater. To prevent this, the cylinder should be run at a high speed— say S00 for the twenty-bar or 1150 for the twelve-bar. Tough rye straw is more liable to wrap if bruised by the cylinder, and therefore, in threshing damp rye, it is best to use not more than two rows of concave teeth and often these may be left quite low, as the high cylinder speed sug- gested above will ordinarily insure threshing it clean from the straw.’ The writer has'jseen a separator (not a “Case’”’), which could not handle damp rye with the usual concave teeth, because of wrapping, do very fair work when all the concave teeth were removed and a high cylin- der speed depended upon for knocking the kernels from the straw. It is a common mistake to use too many concave teeth in threshing rye. ‘This is especially true if the en- gine be small. Unless the straw be badly chopped up, this grain is easily separated and cleaned. The same sieves should be used as in threshing wheat, except that the round-hole sieve, H, for removing the white-caps from wheat is not necessary for rye. Threshing Oats. Oats, when dry, are best threshed with two rows of concave teeth and, especially if the straw be short, with a cylinder speed somewhat lower than 1s required for wheat. When they are in this condition, it is 186 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING easy to thresh them very fast and a machine of medium size often turns out as much as six or seven hundred bushels per hour. When damp, however, oat-straw is very tough and requires a speed of fully 750 for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder. The adjustable-chaf- fer and shoe-sieve should be opened more than for wheat. If the separator be equipped with common sieves, the two- inch lip-sieve, D, should be used as a chaffer and the three- quarter inch lip-sieve, F, placed in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. If this sieve be found too fine, as is occasionally the case with large oats, and in fast thresh- ing, the one and one-quarter inch lip-sieve, EK, may be used in the shoe. Any of the screens mentioned for wheat are suitable for oats. Since a bushel of oats weighs only a little more than half as much as a bushel of wheat, less wind must be used in cleaning. Oats that are poorly filled, and consequently very light, cannot be well cleaned without blowing over some apparently good kernels. Upon close examination, however, it will be found that very few of these are more than hulls, which contain nothing. Threshing Barley. In certain localities, sometimes barley is in such condition that it is easily threshed. At other times, however, the “beards” are tough and difficult to knock off from the kernels. ‘To successfully handle such grain, the cylinder and concave-teeth should be in excellent order. Any teeth that are badly worn should be replaced by new ones. Six rows of concave-teeth may be THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 187 required and the cylinder-speed should be kept up to fully 750 revolutions for the twenty-bar and 1075 for the twelve- bar cylinder separators. As with Turkey wheat, three row concaves, either with plain or corrugated teeth, may be used ; or a better plan is to increase the cylinder speed to 820 r. p.m. To do this, it is necessary to use pulley No. 55827, 6 inches face, 734 inches diameter, 20 bar. This pulley is needed so as to have the beater, crank-shaft and fan run at their normal speed. In using these means to remove the beards, the straw, being brittle, is apt to be cut up badly and, therefore, gives the cleaning apparatus a great amount of chaff to handle. The adjustable sieves should be set as in threshing wheat. By having the front end of the shoe-sieve high and the rear end low, the kernels with beards adhering to them will be carried to the tailings elevator and returned to the cylinder. Another advantage of placing the sieve in this position lies in the fact that when so placed, it lies across the path of the blast, and the wind is forced through it. The chaff is thus easily lifted off and the sieve is enabled to properly handle the large amount of chaff that comes to it in barley threshing. With brittle barley straw, the regular straw-rack sometimes shakes too much straw through to the conveyor. In this case, as in threshing “headings,” the straw-rack should be converted into the Oregon style, mentioned heretofore. When the separator is fitted with common sieves, the two-inch lip, D, or the one 188 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING and one-quarter-inch lip, E, should be used as a chaffer and the three-eighths-inch lip-sieve, G, in the second notch and fourth hole as a shoe-sieve. Any of the screens men- tioned for wheat are suitable for barley. Threshing Flax. ‘The thresherman should devote some study to the peculiarities of flax 1f he wishes to do a nice job of threshing. Operators of some makes of separators have great difficulty in threshing flax on ac- count of the straw being composed of tow or tough fibres, and therefore having great tendency to wind on every revolving thing it encounters. The ‘‘Case’: separator, having no rotary parts on which flax straw can wind, has always had an advantage in this respect. Flax is usually unbound, and on separators equipped with feeders, the pitchers are apt to throw it upon the feeder-carrier in large forkfuls. The straw, on the contrary, should be fed even- ly to the cylinder, for if allowed to pass into the machine in large bunches, it is liable to “slug” the motion down and prevent all parts of the separator from doing good work. When green or damp, it requires close work on the part of the cylinder and concave teeth to get the seed out of the bolls. Usually six rows of concave teeth are required, and the speed must be kept fully up to the 750 for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar, but when dry and in good condition, it is best to run the cylinder at a little less than its normal speed to favor the shoe. Some very good samples of cleaned flax have been taken from THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR I89 separators, fitted only with the adjustable sieves. Usually, however, it is necessary to place a sieve underneath the adjustable shoe-sieve to do first-class cleaning. The ad- justable sieve should be placed as high as possible at both ends in the shoe. For a lower sieve, the five-thirty-sec- onds-inch round hole sieve, I, is the correct size. It should be placed in the seventh notch at the fan end and the fourth hole in the rear. ‘This sieve should also be used in the same position in the shoe of machines fitted with common sieves. For an upper sieve, either of the wheat sieves may be used, but the three-eighths-inch lip sieve, G, is prefer- able to the fifteen-sixty-fourths-inch round hole sieve, H. For a chaffer, the three-quarter-inch lip-sieve, F, works the best of-the common sieves. More wind can be used with two sieves in the shoe than with one. Any of the smaller round hole sieves may be used as a screen, the particular one being determined by the kind of weed seed to be removed and other local conditions. Usually the three-thirty-second-inch round hole, N, is suitable. Threshing Buckwheat. This grain is easily knocked off the straw and even one row of concave teeth is seldom necessary. In most cases it will be found advisable to sub- stitute a hard wood board for each concave. The grain in being thrown by the cylinder from one board to another is generally well knocked loose without breaking either grain or straw to any extent. Buckwheat straw is brittle IgO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING and it is well to bear in mind that as with other grains, the work of separation and cleaning is easier when the work of the cylinder is not overdone. The speed should be low to prevent cracking the grain. The sieves should be set the same as for wheat. In localities in which sufficient buckwheat is grown to keep a separator threshing for several days at a time, excellent results can be obtained by changing the pulleys on the cylinder-shaft as is done for threshing rice, thus making a low cylinder speed possible, while the balance of the machine maintains its normal motion. Threshing Millet. ‘This is the most easily threshed of the ordinary seeds. Usually the normal cylinder speed and four rows of concave-teeth are sufficient to knock out the seed. The adjustable-sieves will ordinarily clean it sufficiently. If the separator be fitted with common sieves, the three-quarter-inch lip sieve, F, should be used as a chaffer, and either the three-eighths-inch lip sieve, G, or the fifteen-sixty-fourths-inch round-hole sieve, H, used in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. When a lower sieve is desired with either the adjustable or com- mon sieves, the one-eighth-inch round-hole sieve, O, or the five-thirty-seconds-inch round-hole sieve, I, is suitable. Either should be placed in the seventh notch and fifth hole. Threshing Speltz or Emmer. ‘This grain is easily threshed and if the directions for threshing oats be fol- lowed, no difficulty will be experienced. CHAPTERS VI ike SHING WITH A SPECIALLY HOWIPPED SEPARATOR. FP he chapter will deal with those crops, the thresh- ing of which requires a change in, or an addition to, a regularly equipped separator. It will include the threshing of peas, beans, rice, clover, alfalfa, timothy, orchard-grass, brome grass, red-top grass, Kafir corn, Indian corn and peanuts. Threshing Peas. ‘To prevent cracking the peas, it is necessary to run the cylinder at a very much lower speed than is required for threshing grain. To obtain the best results, the twelve-bar cylinder should ordinarily be run at from 400 to 450 revolutions per minute, but when the peas are thoroughly ripened and dry, a lower speed will be better, 300 revolutions being sufficient, at times. Or- dinarily the twenty-bar cylinder should be run 290 revo- lutions per minute, but this speed may also be reduced to nearly 200 revolutions when the condition of the pods permit. To secure this low cylinder speed and retain the normal motion of the other parts of the machine and to some extent of the engine, it is necessary to change the pulleys on the cylinder shaft. The number of concave rows may be two, four or six, IQI 192 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING as the condition requires. The cylinder must be run at a certain slow speed as already stated, and when so speeded, more concave teeth are required than if it were allowed to run faster. However, since the cylinder speed must be low, a sufficient number of concave teeth should be used to knock the peas out of the pods. For “blanks,” when less than six rows of concave teeth are used, hardwood boards cut to the right length and width and fitted to the concave- circles are preferable to the regular iron-blanks. Since peas are apt to be cracked by the corners of the iron blank- concaves or erates, the ones under the beater are some- times covered with sheet-iron. This should be done where trouble from cracking is experienced. The kind known as “cow peas” or “‘stock peas,” a speckled or mottled variety belonging to the bean family, are easily cracked. In general, the adjustable chaffer and shoe sieve should be set only slightly more open for the common field peas or for stock-peas than for wheat. The adjustable exten- sion, however, should be open enough to allow unthreshed pods to pass through it and be returned to the cylinder by the tailing elevator. If the separator be fitted with com- mon-sieves, the one and one-quarter-inch lip, FE, or the two- inch lip, D, should be used as a chaffer, and the three- eighths-inch lip, G, should be placed in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. For a screen, the one-sixth by three-fourths-inch woven wire, W, or the three-sixteenths by three-quarter-inch ob- long hole, P, is best, although the fifteen-sixty-fourths THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 193 round-hole wheat sieve, H, works very well in “Whip- poor-will’” stock-peas. If trouble be experienced because the peas strike the floor of the shoe and bound over into the fan, it can be prevented by covering the front part of the chaffer to a dis- tance of twelve or fourteen inches with sheet-iron. If there be much sand or dirt to be screened out, applying the same remedy will cause the peas to be dropped farther rearward and allow the dirt more chance to get through the screen. Returning peas to the cylinder with the tailings is apt to crack them, and, therefore, the cleaned peas will contain fewer split ones if the tailings be kept separate. This may be done by opening the bottom of the tailings- elevator and allowing them to run on the ground or on a canvas. Afterwards they may be run through the ma- chine while “cleaning up.” Threshing Beans. All that has been said above, in regard to threshing peas, applies equally well to threshing the ordinary white navy beans, and also the larger varie- ties, except, that for the latter, if common sieves be used, the three-quarter-inch lip, F, should be used in place of the three-eighths-inch lip sieve, G, in the shoe. Threshing Soy Beans. Soy (or soja) beans are diffi- cult to knock out of the pods, and are so hard that they are not easily cracked. Therefore, they can best be threshed with a separator adjusted and speeded as for wheat. Soy beans sometimes grow quite rank, often yield- ing from 25 to 40 bushels of seed and 12 or 13 tons of fod- 13 194 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING der tothe acre. For this reason, the twenty-eight by forty- six and larger sizes of separators are more suitable than the smaller ones. Special Cylinders for Peas and Beans. ‘There are local- ities in which a separator may be kept constantly threshing peas or beans for several days or even weeks at a time. For such machines, it is often advisable to obtain a special cylinder with the teeth spaced for this work. When so equipped, a “Case” separator will do better work than it would do with the regular cylinder. In fact, its work is then equal to that of the machines designed especially for hulling beans, while its capacity is much greater. In changing to the special cylinder, it is necessary to procure the special concaves and concave-circles, as well as the cylinder. FOR PEA AND BEAN 12-BAR SEPARATORS (BELT): 50683T Main Cylinder Pulley, 18” dia. (regular pulley may remain on), runs cylinder 425 r. p.m. when 86” engine fly-wheel makes 213. 5066T (6” face) or 5067T (4” face) Cylinder Pulley drives beater and crank, 15” dia. (remove tightener), runs crank about normal speed, 230 r. p. m. with cylinder speed of 425. B5068T Cylinder Pulley drives feeder, 17” dia., runs feeder-crank 258 r. p. m. with cylinder speed of 425. A5065T Cylinder Pulley drives wind stacker, 20” dia., runs jack- shaft about 687 r. p. m. with cylinder speed of 425. (Nor- mal, 760.) For lower cylinder speed or faster stacker speeds, use pulleys A303H or B303H on jack shaft. FOR PEA AND BEAN 12-BAR SEPARATORS (GEARED): 5071T Bevel Gear (47 teeth) and Cylinder Pinion A5072T (Steel), or 5072T (Wood) (25 teeth), run cylinder about 425 r. p. m. with the normal tumbling-rod speed of 227 r. p. m. For lower cylinder speed, larger spur-pinions may be used on the horse-power. No special gears are made for 20-bar separators. Pulleys, except 5063T, same as for Belt separators for Peas and Beans. FOR PEA AND BEAN 20-BAR SEPARATORS (BELT): 53872T Main Cylinder Pulley, 26” dia., runs cylinder 290 r. p. m. when 40” engine ftly-wheel makes about 190. THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR I95 5373T Cylinder Pulley drives beater and crank, 22” dia. (remove tightener), runs crank normal speed, 230 r. p. m., with cylinder speed of about 290. 5374T Cylinder Pulley drives feeder, 25” dia., runs feeder-crank normal speed, 258 r. p. m., with cylinder speed of 290. A302H Cylinder Pulley drives wind stacker, 22” dia., and 1 pe. A303H or B303H Wind Stacker Pulley, 8%” dia., run jack-shaft normal speed, 750 r. p. m., with cylinder speed of 290. Threshing Rice. This grain is difficult to thresh clean from the heads without cracking or hulling the kernels. Owing to the fact that the rice when it reaches the mill is screened before it is hulled, any kernels hulled in threshing, are taken out in the screening and are therefore as ob- jectionable as the broken rice which is sold as “grits” at an inferior price. The teeth in a regular cylinder are spaced too closely for ordinary rice threshing, although good work is sometimes done when the teeth have become somewhat worn and are consequently thinner than when new. The “Case” rice thresher has the proper spacing of teeth to thresh this grain out of the heads without crack- ing more than a small percentage. What is said in Chapter II in regard to the proper endwise adjustment of the cylinder and the necessity of keeping the teeth straight applies particularly well to rice threshing. In reading that chapter with reference to rice, however, it should be borne in mind that a difference exists, from the fact that the space between the concave and cylinder teeth is about three-sixteenths of an inch in the rice machine instead of about an eighth of an inch, as it is in the regular. When the rice is in good condition, the amount hulled and broken should not exceed five per cent., but when the grain is 196 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING “sun-cracked,” the percentage may be somewhat larger. The condition of the grain will determine the number and position of the concave teeth, two, four or six rows being used as required. Besides requiring a special spacing of the cylinder and concave teeth, the cylinder speed must be lower for rice than for ordinary grain. The twelve-bar cylinder-speed for rice should be goo revolutions per minute and in order to give the proper speed to the other parts of the separator, it is necessary to have special pulleys on the cylinder shaft. These are larger than the regular pulleys and allow the cylinder to run at the desired low speed, while maintaining normal speed of the other parts of the separator. In the same manner, the twenty-bar cylinder speed for rice should be from 575 to 600 revolutions, and to obtain this, a corre- sponding change in all the pulleys on the cylinder shaft must be made. More rice is apt to be cracked the first few days a new separator runs, than will be afterwards, when the cylinder teeth have become worn smooth. Of the two principal varieties of rice—the Japan and the Honduras—the former is much harder to knock out of the head, but is not as easily cracked as is the latter. The Golden rice of the Atlantic Coast States, however, is much more easily cracked than either of the above varieties, so that more care is required in threshing, and a special feeder is often used. For rice the adjustable chaffer and shoe-sieve should be set in the same position and with about the same opening THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 197 as for oats. Rice is considerably heavier,* however, and will stand the extra amount of wind required to blow out its heavy chaff. When common sieves are used the chaffer should be the two-inch lip, D. The three-quarter-inch lip- sieve, F’, placed in the second notch and third hole gives excellent results as a shoe-sieve. For a screen, the one- fourteenth by one-half-inch oblong-hole, L, is best, ordi- narily. When the rice is so small that this screen lets too much through, the one-sixteenth by three-eighths-inch ob- long-hole, K, may be used. FOR RICE 12-BAR SEPARATORS (BELT): 5051T Main Cylinder Pulley, 10%" dia., runs eylinder :900 ri pm: when 36” engine fly-wheel makes 256 r. p. m. 1839T Cylinder Pulley drives beater and crank, 7” dia., runs crank 225 r. p. m. when cylinder makes 900 r. p. m. (Normal speed of crank, 230 r. p. m.) 5054T Cylinder pulley drives feeder, 6%” dia., runs feeder crank 7 r. p. m. when cylinder makes 900 r. p. m. (Normal, 25.8 By eps la) A269H Cylinder pulley drives wind stacker, 11” dia., runs jack- shaft 810 r. p. m. when cylinder makes 900 r. p. m. (Nor- mal 790" Lr pl .m.) FOR RICH 12-BAR SEPARATORS (GEARED): A1449T Bevel Gear (80 teeth) and A1450T Cylinder Pinion (17 teeth) run the cylinder 950 r. p. m. when the tumbling rod makes 202 r. p.m. Pulleys except 5051T same as for Rice 12-bar separators (belt). FOR RICE 20-BAR SEPARATORS (BELT): 5369T Main cylinder pulley, 16%” dia., runs cylinder 620 r. p. m. when 40” engine fly-wheel makes 250 r. p. m. 5371T Cylinder pulley drives beater and crank, 10” dia., runs crank i222. 1 pt amy ONormal 230) rep. m:. ) 53870T Cylinder pulley drives feeder, 11 veh dia., runs feeder crank ape T4p! aes when cylinder makes 620 r. p. m. (Norma, rn. Ds M A300H Geurace pulley drives wind stacker, 16” dia., runs jack shaft 810 r. p. m. when cylinder makes 620 r. p. m. (Nor- mal, 750 r. p. m.) FOR RICE 20-BAR SEPARATORS (GEARED): A5378T Bevel Gear (76 teeth) and A5379T Cylinder Pinion 23 teeth (Steel): or 5378T Bevel Gear 76 teeth and 5379T *“The commercial standard weight of ‘rough rice’ is 45 pounds to the bushel. The product is usually put up in sacks or barrels oL 162) spounds' each.” 'Charmers’ Bulletin’ No. 110): Ux S) Dept’ of Agriculture. ) 198 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING cylinder pinion 24 teeth (Wood) run the cylinder 603 r. p. m. when the tumbling rod makes 182 r. p.m. Pulleys except 5369T same as for Rice 20-bar separators (belt). Hulling Clover. ‘The process of removing clover seed from the heads or tops of the plant is usually called “hull- ing,” instead of “threshing.”’ A special attachment is made for “Case” separators, for use in hulling clover. This attachment consists of four narrow three-row concaves filled with corrugated teeth, one special blank concave and special sieves. All twelve rows of teeth should be used and the blank placed in front. If the seed be not threshed clean from the heads at the regular speed, with the twelve rows of teeth set clear up, run the cylinder a little faster, and use pulley 5582T (for 20-bar) to drive beater, crank and fan at the normal speed. As the clover is chopped very fine, the work can often be improved by adding slats to the straw rack, making it similar to the Oregon rack. Clover must be very dry to be well threshed by any machine and when threshing from the field is usually not in condition to be hulled before ten or eleven o’clock in the morning, or until the effects of the dew have entirely dis- appeared. From three to six bushels per hour is fair work with a medium size separator in dry clover of an a:verage yield. A clover yield, however, is an extremely variable quantity. Good cleaning has been done with the adjustable-sieves alone, but ordinarily, it will be found much easier to clean the seed well if a sieve be used in the shoe below the THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR I9Q9Q adjustable one. For this purpose, the three-thirty-seconds- inch round-hole sieve, N, or the twelve by twelve mesh woven-wire-sieve, R, is the correct size. Either should be placed in the seventh notch and eighth hole. The adjust- able shoe-sieve should be placed in the second notch and third hole. When common sieves are used, the three-quar- ter-inch lip, F, makes a suitable chaffer, and the three- eighths-inch lip sieve, G, is the best as an upper sieve in the shoe. The latter should be placed in the first notch and first hole and the lower shoe-sieve should be of the same size and placed in the same position as given for adjustable-sieves. It is possible to use three sieves in the shoe, but it is doubtful whether cleaner seed can be pro- duced with three than with two. These directions for sieves apply to all the common varieties of clover, such as the red, alsike, white, etc. For extra large seed, such as that of the German or crimson variety, a coarser sieve (say the three-thirty-seconds-inch round hole, N), may be sub- stituted for Y. For the Japan variety, the one-eighth round hole, O, may be used. In localities where clover seed is threshed in consider- able quantities, the “Case” clover recleaner may be used and it will thoroughly clean very weedy seed. ‘This re- cleaner is attached to the left hand side of the separator just back of the grain elevator. It is driven by means of a special double pulley on the separator fan-shaft with a straight belt. Threshing Alfalfa or Lucerne. The same rules which 200 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING govern the hulling of clover apply in a general way to the threshing of alfalfa, although it is easier to rub the latter out of its pods than the former out of its heads. The clover concaves are sometimes used, but oftener one or ‘more of the regular three-row concaves filled with cor- rugated teeth are all that is required. The sieves may be the same and set in the same way as for clover. Often a weed known as dodder or love-vine, grows with alfalfa and its seeds are usually enough smaller than the alfalfa seed to allow the greater part of them to be removed by screening. ‘The screen best adapted for this purpose is the one-twentieth-inch round-hole, X. Threshing Timothy. Although this seed when prop- erly ripened and cured, is not hard to thresh, it is often in such condition as to render it very difficult for the separator tohandle. It is often cut and stacked when green or damp. When in this condition, the bundles are very solid and they must be properly fed or the cylinder and concave teeth may give trouble. The speed, too, must be fully up to the normal, 750 for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder. Six rows of concave-teeth should always be used, as considerable rubbing is necessary to loosen the seed from the heads. When the seed is ripe and dry, the cylinder speed may be lowered considerably, and this should be done whenever possible, as a low speed favors the shoe in handling this small and rather light seed. Often when the seed is well ripened and allowed to stand in the field, especially if in shocks that are not capped, it will be THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 201 badly shelled in handling so that the amount threshed will be considerably less than the actual yield would be, were it possible to save it all. The adjustable-sieves should be set well closed for tim- othy and a lower sieve must be used to get the seed clean. Either the one-sixteenth-inch round-hole sieve, M, or the sixteen by sixteen-mesh wire sieve, T, are suitable for tim- othy seed, and either may be used successfully, if placed in the seventh notch and fourth or fifth hole. When common- sieves are used, the three-quarter-inch lip-sieve, F', will be found to be the most suitable for a chaffer and the three- eighth-inch lip, G, is an excellent upper sieve for the shoe. Threshing Orchard-Grass. In threshing this grass, the cylinder should be run at its regular speed, and six rows of concave teeth, set well up, should be used. Good work has been done with the adjustable sieves alone, but as a rule, the seed can be cleaned better by using the three- thirty-seconds by one-half-inch oblong-hole special sieve, U, underneath the adjustable shoe-sieve. It should be placed in the seventh or eighth notch and sixth hole. The adjustable shoe-sieve should be placed in the second notch and third hole. If common-sieves be used, place the one and one-quarter-inch lip sieve, E, in the conveyor. Use the three-quarter-inch lip sieve, F, as an upper sieve in the shoe placed in the first notch and third hole. Use the three- thirty-seconds by one-half-inch special orchard-grass sieve, U, below, placing it in the same position as when used with the adjustable one. Since the seed is light, but little 202 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING wind is required, and if the grass be reasonably free from weeds, the lower blinds may be entirely closed and the upper ones opened a little. If the grass be damp or dirty, slightly open the lower ones also. From twelve-hundred to fifteen-hundred bushels of orchard-grass have been threshed in a day with a me- dium-sized machine. Threshing Brome Grass. This seed can be successfully threshed in the “Case” machine, although it is consider- ably lighter than even orchard grass. In general, the direc- tions for threshing orchard-grass should be followed, but a coarser sieve is necessary. ‘The one-sixth by three- fourths mesh wire, W, is a suitable size. It will be found that the fan blinds must be kept well closed in some cases, it being even necessary to close the opening more than is done by the blinds, as for red-top grass. Threshing Red-Top Grass. When threshing red-top grass that is in good condition, the cylinder speed may be considerably below normal, and one filled concave (two rows) usually is sufficient. Should the grass be damp, it may be necessary to use more than two rows of teeth in the concaves and to run the cylinder at normal speed, 1175 r. p.m. for 12-bar and 750 r. p. m. for 20-bar separators. Special attention must be paid to the cleaning apparatus if good results are to be obtained. Set the conveyor-sieve only slightly open, and the conveyor-extension open enough to save what unthreshed seed may pass over the conveyor sieve. The adjustable shoe-sieve should be set in first notch THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 203 and second or third hole and adjusted somewhat finer than the conveyor-sieve. To do good work, it is necessary to use as a lower shoe-sieve, the twenty-four by twenty-four mesh wire one, set high in front, next to fan, and low at rear, about third notch and fifth or sixth hole. In most cases the fan-blinds must be kept closed and in some cases it may even be necessary to more completely close the openings by fitting thin boards or other like material to the fan-blinds. Should the sieves become overloaded, the rear wheels may be slightly lowered. Threshing Kafir-Corn. The three principal varieties of Kafir-corn—the white, the red and the black-hulled white (African-millet), are known by various names, such as “red-top cane” or “sumac-cane,” “ amber-cane,” “ milo-maize,” “black- guinea-corn,” etc. Any of these may be successfully threshed with a “Case” separator. When the machine is kept continually threshing crops of this sort, it is best to use the “Texas” straw-rack, which is made espe- cially for this work. The general directions for wheat may be followed in regard to the cylinder and concaves, speed and cleaning apparatus. Ifthe seed is easily cracked, the pulleys for rice may be used and cylinder speeded ac- cordingly. For a screen, use the one-eighth-inch round hole, O, unless seed is small, in which case the three-thirty- seconds-inch round hole, N, may be used. Threshing Indian-Corn or Maize. The threshing of Indian-corn is very severe on a separator and the use of a good machine for this purpose is therefore not recom- 204 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING mended. Some threshermen use a separator which has. been discarded for regular grain threshing and this ar- rangement is not objectionable. As the corn is shelled by the machine it must be drier than 1s necessary for a husker- shredder, or the shelled corn will heat and spoil. Usually the cylinder is run at its normal speed. Two rows of con- cave-teeth are sufficient. Often concave-teeth are forged so as to be sharpened on the front edge or else shortened to lessen the amount of power required to drive the cy]l- inder. The fish-backs and riser supports may be removed from the straw-rack and the risers lowered so that the rack is flat, similar to the special ‘“Texas” rack used for Kafir-corn. Threshing Peanuts. The equipment necessary to con- vert a regular “‘Case”’ separator into a peanut separator con- sists of concaves, pulleys, sieves, special bagger and a tailings spout. It is also necessary to remove some of the teeth from the cylinder. The teeth needed for Spanish peanuts may conveniently be located as follows: ‘Turn the cylinder until you find a bar that has teeth about 1 inch from eachend. The teeth in this bar and in every alternate one are the ones to be used. Remove all others; also the inside bars from which the teeth have been removed. Two- inch lip-sieves are used in the conveyor, conveyor extension and shoe. The two former must be well opened and the shoe-sieve should be set well up in front and nearly level or perhaps a trifle low next to the tailings auger; other- — wise, the sieve will begin to “load” and the passage be THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR 205 obstructed. The fan-blinds may be regulated so as to blow out all of the “pops” if desired. When a heavy blast is needed, care must be taken so that no good peanuts will be blown over. This may be avoided by raising the rear of the conveyor extension-sieve and the sheet iron extension just back of the tailings auger. The bagger is of the vibrating type, elevating the peanuts by pitching them from notch to notch, thus avoiding breakage in elevating. The fifteen-sixty-fourths-inch round hole screen in the bottom of the elevator should be looked at from time to time to see that it is clean. Do not allow the sand or dirt under this screen to become so high as to interfere with the operation of the bagger. ‘The best results are obtained by running it with a crossed belt. The special equipment for peanut separators is furnished only for the eighteen by thirty-sixth-inch size. FOR SPANISH PHANUT SEPARATORS: Pulleys on cylinder shaft for threshing Spanish Peanuts are the same as those listed under Peas and Beans, 12-bar, page 194. FOR VIRGINIA PEANUT SEPARATORS (BELT): 50600 , Main’ Cylinder) Pulley, 187) dia., runs cylinder 293 ‘rips om: when 36” engine fly-wheel makes 146 r. p. m. 5789T Cylinder Pulley drives beater and crank, 22” dia. (remove tightener), runs crank normal speed, 230 r. p. m., with eylinder speed of 293 r. p. m. A5065T Cylinder Pulley drives wind stacker, 20” dia., and A303H. or B3803H Wind Stacker Pulley, 8%” dia., run jack-shaft 690 r. p. m. with cylinder speed of 293 r. p. m. FOR VIRGINIA PEANUT SEPARATORS (GEARED): 5071T Bevel Gear (47 teeth) and A5072T Cylinder Pinion: (Steel) or 5072T (Wood) (25 teeth) run cylinder about 308 r. p. m. with spur pinion ASW (22 teeth) on horse power, when the horses make 24% r. p.m. Pulleys, except 50638T, same as for Virginia Peanut Belt Separators. 206 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING BELTS FOR CASE SEPARATORS. a 3 Sy ie sts NAME Sey kee CO tae SI We clan Net) | = Granks and. Bean ace wee bs 20-Bar| Both |Leather|6” Crank and "Beatery ys sc).c syjaene 12-Bar| Steel | Leather!4” Grank sand "Beaten derio. vee 12-Bar} W ood| Leather|4” 1 BO Ua RE RTE ote a i 20-Bar} Both | Leather|4” ) Siro Remedies Ween he anu Ome URE LE 12-Bar| Both |Leather|4” levator: ese eaeeai ee seen Both | Both |Leather|214" Elevator eee ee ae es aren 20-Bar] Steel | Leather|214” Grain AUser ence emma scence 1o-Bar Steel | Leather|214” Crain eee te ie Fale eS { Lith'rlay4" Shoe Shake won 20-Bar] Steel | Leather|2” Shoes aalae eter ities ih oe Guebeal 20-Bar] W ood| Leather|2” EERE HD TIVE iiees lee rieriiale olen 12-Bar| Both |Leather/4” Reeder alrivies s,s ci sileicls ecscuae 20-Bar| Both | Leather!/4” Heederiismialle even cat. bears Both | Both |Leather/214" Wind: Stacker Drive.......2.. 12-Bar| Both | Rubber |5” Wind ‘stacker: Drives 2 cc%6.02 20-Bar| Steel | Rubber |5” Wind istacker “Drive... .i:...0. 20-Bar| W ood] Rubber |5” Wind Stacker Drive, geared..|Both | Steel | Rubber |5” Wind Stacker Drive, geared. .|12-Bar]} W ood| Rubber |5” Wind Stacker Drive, geared. .|20-Bar|] W ood| Rubber |5” Combined Stacker Drive ...... 20-Bar| Steel | Rubber |5” Combined Stacker Drive ...... 12-Bar| Both |Rubber |5” Combined Stacker Drive ...... 20-Bar| W ood] Rubber |5” Combined Stacker Drive, geared! Both | Steel |Rubber j5” Combined Stacker Drive, geared} Both | Wood! Rubber |5” Wind Stacker Turret Drive...|Both |Steel |Rubber |2” Wind Stacker Turret Drive...|12-Bar} Wood! Rubber |2” Wind Stacker Turret Drive...|20-Bar}] W ood! Rubber |2” Combined Stacker Turret Drive| Both | Steel | Rubber |214" Combined Stacker Turret Drive|Both |W ood|Rubber |2%4" Attached Stacker! Drive isi... 12-Bar| Both |Rubber |4” Attached Stacker Drive’ Jo. 2). 20-Bar| Both | Rubber /4” Attached Stacker Drive, geared.|Both | Both | Rubber |4” Attached Stackes)ishorti he. Both | Both |Leather|2” Attached Stacker, Jong... . 2... Both | Both |Leather|2%4"” Conmon Stacker ieee ee Both | Both |Rubber |3” Independent Stacker...........|Both | Both |Rubber |3” 4! [ FIG. Of. SECTIONAL VIEW OF WIND STACKER. because of its freedom from “trappy” features, the absence of dust and litter about the separator equipped with it, and the ease with which the chute is swung around on the deck of separator for transportation. Operating the Wind Stacker. To make the chute 236 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING swing automatically, the two-inch belt must be put on to drive the turret and if the clutch be engaged, the tur- ret will slowly revolve, carrying the chute with it. It may be made to go in the opposite direction or stopped at any time. Rivets are used as trip-pins and these will cause stacker to reverse its swing automatically. Any desired got cas port Le oe A MM su ys " = ee \\ zor" gO ‘ru AR eS a Th sxe : BON Hap = go ee ee <= io) o2z202Kz2 O ae 58. Pe ie eae DEVICE FOR STRAW-CHUTE. arc of swing is obtained by placing the trip-pins in the different holes in the main worm-wheel. The machine should never be moved until the chute rests in its support. If not desired to use the automatic movement, the two- inch belt may be left off. To make the stacker drive belt run in the center of the stacker pulley, place a little card-board under the front part of the idler bracket to make the belt run closer to the machine, or under the rear part of idler bracket to make the belt run farther out. Underlaying the bracket above THE STRAW STACKERS 237 or below so as to raise the outer or the inner edge of the idler pulley, will not change the position of the belt on the pulley It must be put under the front or rear part to accomplish the desired result, as this will divert the course of the belt slightly on its way to the pulley. Stack Building with Wind Stacker. Where it is desir- able to stack the straw so as to preserve it, the wind stacker must be handled by a competent man. In starting the stack, bring the chute about level, extend it to its full length, raise the hood slightly, and build the back of the stack first. Always keep the farther side of the stack highest. Make the stack bottom at least one-third smaller than would be done were it built by hand, and allow the straw chute to oscillate. It is very important that the farther side of the stack be kept highest, as it furnishes a back wall to stop the force of the straw. A good rule to follow is: “Always throw the straw onto the stack and not over it.” In topping out, allow the straw to strike the top and glance over it; in this way the farther side of the stack will be filled out and the straw will be prevented from rolling down or going over too far. When the straw chute is at the corner of the stack, raise and lower hood quickly, thereby distributing the straw and binding the comer. Lubricating the Wind Stacker. Keep the bearings of the driving shafts well lubricated with hard oil, espe- cially the one next to the pulley. The bevel-gears driving fan on geared stackers must be kept well greased. All 238 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the bearings and worm gears of the automatic device for swinging the straw chute should be oiled. Speed of Stacker Fan. It is desirable to keep the speed of the wind-stacker fan as low as possible, not only because it makes good stack building easier, but also because it requires less power to run. On page 516 of “Kent’s Pocket-Book” an example is given of a fan which took .25 H. P. to drive at a speed of 600 r. p.m. The same fan required .7o H. P., or nearly three times as much when the speed was increased to &00. Combination-Stackers. "The combination-stacker has been made because of the demand for a stacker that would give the thresherman all the advantages of the simplicity and freedom from litter of the wind-stacker, and, at the same time, give the farmer, who desires to have his straw stacked by men placed on the stack, a stacker which de- livers the straw onto the stack by means of an ordinary carrier and carrier-rake. | Attaching the Combination-Stacker. Up to the point of putting on the turret, this stacker is attached in the same manner as the wind-stacker. The turret, however. which has the mechanism for driving the rake, in addition to the parts used on the wind-stacker, is attached eight inches higher than that of the wind-stacker, in order to bring the carrier sufficiently high to swing clear of the deck of the separator. Holes are provided in the posts of the frame for attaching the turret in the positions re- quired by either the combination or wind-stacker. After THE STRAW STACKERS 239 the turret is in place, and the two sections of the carrier bolted together, the carrier may be attached. This is con- veniently done by placing it in position upon the deck of the separator, as for transportation. The hoisting cables, sprockets, chain, hand-wheels for operating and the car- rier-rake may now be put on. The presser-strips are hinged to the hinged-screen at one end, their outer end being carried by leather straps. Operating the Combination-Stacker. This stacker re- ceives its Swing movement in the same manner as the wind-stacker. The hoisting mechanism is self-locking so the carrier cannot fall. The presser-strips hold the straw against the carrier-rake, thereby making it possible to elevate the carrier to an angle of about forty-five de- grees. The carrier should always be swung onto the deck of the separator before moving the machine from place to place. Stack-builders, who are unfamiliar with this stacker, should. be cautioned against starting the stack too far under the carrier as it does not pull away from the stack until elevated to a considerable height. Oiling the Combination-Stacker. ‘The bearings of the jack and upright-shafts are fitted with compression-cups for hard-oil. These may be turned up as often as neces- sary to give sufficient lubrication. The bevel-gears driv- ing the fan should be greased. The turret mechanism driving the carrier-rake should be oiled occasionally. The intermediate-gear-ring, and the two small pinions meshing with it, should be greased. 240 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING WEIGHT PER BUSHEL OF GRAIN. The following table gives the number of pounds per bushel required by law or custom in the sale of grain or seeds in the several states: = 3 3 “fy D 3 o - 5) FS = Lv = af Nd rv) © a = iS o w ri < i) a = a o 3) & a ai alta)olel) 3) 61 2) alte Arkansas........ 4S" OO 0271007) 9 0214, 2aleewe 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 California... 50 71 ap ieee eee premrees 32 | 54.1 52s Go Connecticut, i... 5 leerr|>ss* a eee eee, | ae 82 | 56 | 56 56 Dist. Columbia. .| 47 | 62 | 48 | 60 |....1.... 32 | 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 Georgia......... CV perenne OOM aed 85 | 56 | 56: 4osIt60 Whois scs<.5 45.2 48 | 60 | 52 | 60 | 56 | 45 | 82 | 56 | 56 |....! 60 Indiana icc. 48 | 60 | 50] 60 |....]. 32 | 56 1 56 "450060 Iowa... ...eecee. 48 | 60 | 52 | 60 | 56 | 48 | 32 | 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 Kansas.........-. BO: |) GO SO acess 2. _...| 82 | 564 565] 455/866 Kentucky..cc4. 48 | 60 | 52 | 60 | 56 |....| 32 | 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 Houisianaies saci 2 Ce ee (Per Fata pagal O02 ls swe] OCR aU MAWES oscie ccs e oes AS Gt JAS oh ese cant BO Ies0s) DOU moO Manitoba....... 48 |....| 48 | 60 | 56 | 34 | 384 | 56] 56]....} 60 Maryland....... 48 | 64 | 48 |....1.... ..e.| o2 | 56 4 56 | 45) 60 Massachusetts...| 48 | 48 |....|....|]....]..-. 32 | 56 | 56 |. oo Michigan........ 48 |....| 48 | 69 | 56 |....] 82 | 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 Minnesota....... 48 1.60 | 42 | 60 |....| 48 | 32 | 56 | 56 Rao Missouticcs).4 <<. 48 | 60 | 52 | 60 | 56 | 50 | 82 | 56 | 56 | 45, 60 Nebraska. J25.. AS GO N52 OO Ne alee 34 | 56 1 56 | 45 e650 New York... 48.| 62 1 48 1-60 |.3..1.... 82 | 56 | 58 | 44 | 60 New Jersey..... te ak egies et WC a lear yee al 30 | 56. | 56 oe e60 New clamipsiire jews) O00 lierctenes|oceal sows 30: | 56: | 56.25 a60 North Carolina. | 48 |....| 50 | 64 |..../.... 30: | 56°): 544) 2G North Dakota...| 48 |....} 42 | 60 | 56 |....] 82 | 56 | 56)}....| 60 OHO. os. yaa ee 48 | 60 | 50 | 60 |....].... 32 | 50 | 5644001760 Oklahoma. 6 ee 48 |....| 42 |.60 | 56 |....| 32 | 50 |soOdeeee coo Orevon. ........ AG socal 42 OO Ae, Se. S36 | 56: }-50nene. 00 Pennsylvania....| 47 |....| 48 | 62 |..../.... 30 | 56 | DOM TOU South Dakota...|:48 |....| 52 | 60 | 56 | 50 | 32 | 56 ' 56)... .| 60 South Carolina. | 48 | 60 | 56 | 60 |....).... 33. | 56 (5G s. 51200 Werimont. 42.5.5: 48 | 64 | 48 |....! 60 |....] 32 | 56 | 66 | 42 | 60 Virginia... 48 | 60 | 48 | 64'|....].... 32 | 56 | 56 | 45 | 60 West Virginia..| 48 | 60 | 52 | 60 ]....].... 32.) 5611 O60) 45.060 Wisconsin....... AB a2c ONO lem enleeee 32156156 1.2 01600 CHAP PiR AL THE GRAIN HANDLERS HE, devices used to take the grain from the grain auger and deliver it into sacks or into wagons, as the case may be, are called “grain handlers.” These are made in several styles, some of which, in addi- tion to elevating the grain, weigh it and automatically record the number of bushels threshed. The weight of a given quantity of grain varies accord- ing to the kind and quality. Although almost universally sold by the bushel, the number of bushels is determined by weight so that the grain is actually sold by the pound. For example, if the price of wheat be one dollar per bushel, one dollar will purchase sixty pounds of wheat. Sixty pounds of heavy wheat will not fill a bushel measure, but this weight of light wheat will more than fill the measure. In the days when there were no grain handlers, and the grain from the separator was delivered into half- bushel or bushel measures, it was usually customary to give “big measure.” By this method, were a farmer to sell all of his grain, he would receive pay for a greater number of bushels than he paid the thresherman for thresh- ing it. This custom of giving “big measure” in threshing, 16 241 242 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING undoubtedly grew out of the fact that it was necessary to heap the measure in order to make the light grain “hold out.” Since the measuring was done by someone who looked out for the interests of the farmer rather than those of the thresherman, the measures were usually heaped with all that they would hold, and in some cases, even tamped in order to make them hold more. This, of course, was unfair to the thresherman. The thresher- man should insist on pay for every bushel by weight, as he would do, were he selling the grain. When engaging the threshing, he should tell the farmer of his intention to do this, and then adjust the price accordingly. Since the weighing attachments accurately weigh and auto- matically record the number of bushels threshed, all fair- minded men must admit that the use of one insures a record of the amount threshed that is correct and fair to both thresherman and farmer. The prejudice against weighers that formerly existed, because of the custom of giving “big measure,” has gradually disappeared until they have come into almost universal use. Their accuracy was at first often doubted, but in many cases the weigher’s record of a certain amount of grain has been compared with the weight of the same grain on standard scales and found to correspond very closely. The No. 1 Weigher consists of an elevator permanently attached to the left side of the separator, the weighing apparatus, and a conveyor across the deck of the separa- THE GRAIN HANDLERS 243 tor. The cross-conveyor is of sufficient height to deliver the grain into a wagon box on either side of the machine. The purchaser of a No. 1 weigher is given the choice of two plain spouts for delivering the grain in bulk into wagon boxes, or of the bagging attach- ment for deliv- ering the grain into, sackst (This bagging attachment has twin-spouts to allow putting on the empty sack before removing the full one.) eh. € NAO: ia weigher requires no folding for moving on the road, and is no higher than other parts of the separator. For these FIG. 59. HEAD OF CASE WEIGHER. reasons it is largely used in localities in which the thresh- ing is done principally in and around barns. It is one of the most popular of the grain handlers. When “skittish” horses are used on the grain wagons, it is a wise precaution to place a fence post or log on the 244 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING ground so that in backing, the rear wheels of the wagon will come against the log before striking and damaging the machine. The No. 2 Weigher is also called the “Dakota style weigher.” ‘The elevator is so high that the grain is suffi- ciently elevated to be delivered by the long spout on either side of the machine. In this way the cross conveyor is dispensed with. As the spout is long, it will hold con- siderable grain so that the exchange of sacks may be made in fast threshing, without danger of choking the elevator by obstructing its delivery. The grain may be delivered in bulk into wagons driven along side the separator as the end of the spout is a sufficient distance from the sep- arator to make it unnecessary to back the wagon up to the machine. Where grain is to be sacked, an empty sta- tionary wagon may be used to sack in, thus avoiding the necessity of lifting the sacks of grain into the wagon which hauls them away. The long spout is provided with hooks to hold the sacks. The No. 2 weigher is used very gen- erally in the localities where the threshing is done in the open field. It is the only suitable grain-handler for use in connection with portable-bins, such as are used in the Northwest. The spout is long enough to deliver the grain into these bins and the weighing apparatus automatically records the number of bushels. The No. 3 Weighing-Bagger. ‘This attachment is in- tended for use in putting the grain into sacks on the THE GRAIN HANDLERS 245 ground and it can be used only on the left-hand side of the separator. It has the same weighing mechanism as the No. 1 and No. 2 weighers. The No. 4 Bagger. This grain-handler does not weigh the threshed grain, but is used simply to elevate it to a sufficient height to run into sacks. It is often desirable to change the bagger from one side to the other on account of the wind or for other reasons. In doing this, it is necessary to change the drive to the other side as the belt driving must always be on the side opposite the elevator. The direction in which the auger runs must also be re- versed and this is accomplished by running the drive-belt crossed, when the elevator is on the left-hand side of the separator, and straight when on the right-hand side. The No. § Loader. This attachment serves the same general purpose as the No. 2 weigher, except that it does not weigh the grain. The No. 6 Loader is similar to the No. 1 weigher, but has no weighing mechanism. For those who desire to sack on the ground it may be used in place of the No. 4. The delivery of the grain may be changed from one side of the separator to the other by simply throwing a lever. It may be used to run the grain into a wagon box in bulk or into sacks in wagons as desired, as was explained for the No. 1 weigher. Note suggestion under No. 1 weigher concerning skittish horses. Attaching Grain-Handlers. All of the “Case” grain- 246 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING handlers require a left-hand grain auger. When it is desired to attach one of these elevators to separators built previous to the year 1899, which were fitted with the right- hand grain augers, it is necessary to replace the old auger by a left-hand one, or the attachment will not work. What to do when Weigher Fails to Dump. It is seldom that the weighing mechanism fails to work prop- erly, but it may do so from several causes. Some of the parts may be sprung out of shape from careless handling, causing them to bind or work hard. In case the weighing hopper does not dump each time it is filled with the amount of grain the weight is set for, first see that the hopper moves freely up and down. Malleable Trip Bracket t48CW or its guide may have become sprung so that they do not engage freely. The trip-pin in end of 148CW should disengage readily from trip-dog 13CW and it may require filing to make it do so. It should lap about one- eighth inch on the dog. The weight and scale-beam must move freely without catching or rubbing on any stationary part and end of beam must strike Rest I50CW when down. The Trip Crank 20CW must be past its dead-center when the trip-pin rests against the dog, so that the weight of the cut-off (15CW and 16CW) will revolve the shaft and engage the worm as soon as the trip-dog is released by the downward movement of the hopper. The vertical shaft must turn freely, except when stopped by the trip- pin. The chain should be of such a length that it allows THE GRAIN HANDLERS 247 the cut-off to fully close when the trip-crank is at its ex- treme throw. Caution Regarding the Sprocket-Chain. The chain in the elevators of all the grain-handlers must be kept prop- erly adjusted. Since they are driven from the bottom, when the chain is too loose, it does not hug the sprocket properly and wears unnecessarily. On the other hand the chain should not be so tight as to be in tension, for this causes unnecessary friction and the consequent wear on the chain and shafts. A worn chain that is liable to come apart can have its usefulness prolonged. The hook of each link may be closed by hammering its point, while its back rests on the horn of an anvil or similar projection. In this way the chain may be kept free from danger of unhooking until worn so that it fails from weakness. When necessary to shorten the chain, always remove two links at a time so that an odd number, three or five, of plain links remain between the cups or “flights,” as they are called. ‘This is necessary because the lower sprocket has teeth engaging only alternate links of the chain and the links with flights attached must skip the teeth. This does not apply to the tailings-elevator chain, as elsewhere explained. ~ Calculating a Quantity of Grain. Where a weigher is not used, the amount of grain in a wagon-box, portable bin or in any rectangular receptacle, may be calculated as fol- lows: Determine the length, width and height in inches, 248 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING multiply them together and divide the product by 2150,* the number of cubic-inches in a bushel. The quotient will be the number of bushels. Where the depth is not uni- form, several measurements should be taken and their average used. For example, the usual wagon-box is 36 inches wide, 124 inches long and 16 inches deep inside. Therefore, when level full, it holds: 36 X 124 X 16, divided by 2150 equals 33.22 bushels. This equals 2.07 bushels for each inch of depth. In the same manner, the forty-inch wagon-box will hold: 40 X 124 X 16, divided by 2150, equals 36.91 bushels, or 2.37 bushels for each inch in depth. This method of calculating the quantity of grain gives the correct result only when the grain is stand- ard weight, and when lighter or heavier, correction should be made accordingly. The weight per bushel of grain and seeds is given on page 240. *More exactly, 2,150.42. INDEX FOR CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS SEE PAGES 4 AND 5. A Page Adjusting Connecting Rod. 50 Adjusting Cross-Head ..... 52 Adjusting Eccentric Strap.. 54 Adjusting Engine Bearing 50-54 Adjusting Friction Clutch . 124 Adjusting Horse Power Aral ays Adjusting Tailings Elevator i76 Adjustable Sieves ......... 170 Admission, Steam ......... 67 Alfalfa, Threshing ........ 199 PAISIISEG: ) TMHATESWiINe |e. ics-3 cree 190 End-Play, Separator Cyl... 156 Engine, Compounded ...... 84 WMeSING, HTEtNES LOR so sk/e ore 9 Mncsines;. Handline the i... 59 Engine, Horse Power of... 81 MMSime, Olina the eyes cess 43 Engine Packed for Ship- TONG TAH Pisiscis onoheratouetionet eve ere Chalcetost 9 Hneine. setting ther 2..465% 61 MIS TVES SDOCA OL 5 /ieiiiec a alone s G3; EMMSIMeT Startin ay aN sjies we aot Engine on Road, Starting.. 2 mnesines Steamine, Wp is... .. 10 IW NiMe wi ScGeGIMNe cise sieere. es 60 1Dpaves waves, “ADEN aie (2) de eiae ee EIA ara ae 129 Hingine, Valve Gear ....... 89 Equal Leads, Woolf Gear.. 102 E Page Equalizers, Connecting the. 133 Pixhaust? NOzZZleSmlere acc eters leo IDp-daksquiche mal exopeush (4 caiawe LAL OO Expansion of Steam... .. Se TG Expanding Boiler Tubes ... 115 Extension, The Conveyor.. 171 Kr Hany TNE), bd s 23 Pump! Troubles excise es ss 24-27 R Rated Horse Power ...... ey he Red-Top-Grass, Threshing . 202 Regrinding Check Valves .. 29 Removing the Ashes ...... 41 Removing the Beater ...... 222 Removing the Conveyor .... 2238 Removing theiMany %. ss. ous 224 Removing the Rock-Shaft.. 223 Removing the Shoe ......... 224 Removing the Straw Rack.. 223 Removing Spur-Wheel Shaft 137 Removing Taper Keys ..... 208 Repairinsy TVeatery weve cere 31 Reverse Gear for Engine .. 89 Reversing Gearing of H. P. 138 Reversing Tumbling Rod .. 138 Rice! Pulleys) aes b Siaveriereiehenes 197 RiCe sw EhTreshinisw. wee sie eee 195 Riveted Pulley (Covers... 209 Rocking Grates ....... ae 41 Rock Shaft, Removing..... 223 R Page Rubber Belts eae a aetsorerenee So rsibit Rye, Threshing ...... cities oe Ss; Safety; (PIU eee eee pfs, ababte) Safety) Valve. 2.3... hole 109 Scraping the Tubes .2ico22. aa Usy SCNEENS I) 55/5 Segre Paes eee 172 Screens, List of {cine 174 Seed, Weight per Bushell... 240 Self-Beeders; | 2)... \iiicone eters 228 Separating, Difficulty of. -23 130 Separator, Belts for .... 22% 211 Separator, “Beltins, (faces 210 Separator, Canvas Cover for 222 Separator, ‘Care. ,of cs acernete 221 Separator Cylinder’ ..% o.ieeunine Separator, Feeding the .... 227 Separator, Laying up ..... 222 Separator, Leveling the 150 Separator Lubrication . 22. 219 Separator, N@w (.jo.vele ccteiale 147 Separator, Oiling the ....% 148 Separator, Pulleys for.s2..)200 Separator, Setting up ..... 147 Separator, Setting the .... 145 Separator, Side Gear ...... 134 Separator, Starting; aaa cer 147 Settins as (toi Windies 152 Setting the Concaves ...... 160 Setting the Engine ........ 61 Setting the Horse Power .. 132 Setting the Separator ..... 150 Setting up Separator ...... 150 Setting the Valve, Com- POUNG Ws... 356 eee eee 102 Setting Valve, Link Rev... 103 Setting Valve, Woolf Rev.. 98 Shoe, Removing .\is.ee. ven eae Shoe, Waste ‘ato faaa.. P icdoa egaied Side Gear for Separator .... 134 STSV.CS8!) siaie odie arsleeerenettenetetel stoke 170 Sieves, Adjustable oi... 0. ee 170 Steves;(\Comimionmipee cei sche Pe 7/2 Sieves, Common, List of ... 174 Sievies; To dinsenrtity oc cunererers 5 24 Simple ,ENnSine \\.\ mie 2 i ion - re me aires as ” ee eee. “nn ; ot is Dy. ioe a ais fet na ay et te Pee an US ys ye os ’ 40) hak * ; Tyee eT ag Sah aa be x Faas Weer tat) Ras co i i ve LM ar, Rite 1s ay a ae A oe sh bs a fA NOUNS So a Pcie i OE Aa ert Che a wy aie Ry ily oh i Re | a ea! an a . v4 Ney Cae egy Be. ei eee ie FL" ye es (att ged Ne SO & ve vi Re hae) bs pis jay is n>, a Reon i ae cin Bi 4 a : ita yh RA ae a ; : sl Wels " Paes ils int pew 3 + i a a aon, Re ant ei re won ae Ae ey ¥, , ae oe At ck ah Days rid peas md Aik: ‘ iat a int r tg vitae ny ‘eee ian ee Phd a 4 PiMan oe, WE air owl Ve es Wah bene eave") ean 4 a Als} 1D eer Lien ih Ae ie; oy: . : nk Pind isl, 4 i ue a eae “a we Risks ? ar mate aa om “m ee As 4 a 5 J eo, ie ne ie i 4 ih z $3 ut Pi? 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