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GIFT OF

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Scientific Potato Culture

A BOOK, CONCISE IN ITS FORM, AND CONTAINING

A MINT OF SUGGESTIONS REGARDING THE

POTATO AND ITS CULTURE.

By A. J. Young, Sr.

COPYRIGHTED BY

A. J. YOUNG, SR.

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*GRIC. DEFT

. Stttt

FROM THE PRESSES OF

HUNTINGTON BEACH NEWS

HUNTINGTON BEACH, CAL.

The old home where I have carried on my experiments for twenty-three years.

445085

A. J. Young, Sr., the potato expert, who has gained his
knowledge through experimenting and growing the
crop for twenty-three years.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

HIS book is written with the hope of fulfilling
the various needs of the potato growers of Cal-
ifornia. Many suggestions will also prove ben-
eficial to the eastern grower. Since the potato
is the foremost food plant of the American people, the
author has endeavored to give in as brief and complete form
as possible the much-needed and valuable information.
Since the author has made a life study of this problematical
plant, there are some profitable suggestions unfolded to the
reader within these few pages. Such knowledge is the
author's personal experience, having learned from this, the
world's greatest teacher.

The book contains some interesting experiments on the
plant as well as the practical culture of the potato.

A thorough study and strict observance of the instruc-
tions herein will insure the most amateurish growers of Cal-
ifornia remarkable success.
July, 1917. A. J. YOUNG, SR.

CONTENTS

Page

Chapter 1. Breeding 15

Pollination and crossing plants, and propagation of new
varieties.

Chapter 2. Selection and Care of the Seed Potato 25

The cause of "run out" potatoes. Qualities good seed
should have. "Hill selection." "Greening."

Chapter 3. Cutting and Preparing the Seed to Plant 45

How to cut, and size, of seed piece. Liming the cut
seed. The use of whole seed in California.

Chapter 4. Preparing to Plant and Planting 55

Fertilizers. Essential plant foods in soil. Soils best
adapted to culture of potatoes. Preparation of soil.
Planting seasons.

Chapter 5. Cultivation and Irrigation 67

First cultivation. How to irrigate. Hill culture or
ridge system. Level cultivation.

Chapter 6. Disease and Its Prevention 75

Spraying. Preparation of Bordeaux mixture and Paris
Green. Insect pests. Causes and prevention of dis-
eases.

Chapter 7. Harvesting and Marketing 85

How to grade for market. Sources of influence upon
quality of the potato.

TABLE OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page

The old home 3

A. J. Young, Sr 5

Potato bloom ready for pollination 13

Potato fruit and seed 17

A perfect two-year seedling 21

The best hill of seedlings I ever produced 27

A potato in good condition to plant 33

Results of planting a potato when too old 37

My 1916 field of potatoes 41

A cutting ready for planting 53

How to plant to reproduce on top of the vine 65

Potato insect pests 71

A potato affected with wilt 78

The Scottish Chief potato is the best marketable tuber known 83

Young's Early Harvest King ....87

The upper bloom shows the exact time for pollination.

BREEDING

BREEDING.

CHAPTER I.

F all interesting studies of plant life, the prob-
lems confronting the potato breeder, also the na-
ture of the plant, are the most interesting to me.
There are numerous difficulties in potato breed-
ing. He who would succeed must discover for himself
these obstacles and overcome them.

I have studied the nature of the potato, have experi-
mented, have propagated many kinds, and have grown the
potato extensively for about twenty-three years, and every
day there are different problems confronting me, most of
which I have solved, yet there is deep study ahead and
much to be learned. I have grown potatoes from cuttings,
and from such cuttings have grown four crops in one year,
each cutting being taken from the vine that had been
grown from a cutting. The first cutting was taken from a
seedling, which would make four crops without using a
tuber for seed. I have learned how to grow potatoes on
top of the vine, and many more interesting experiments,
and find there are always new ideas presenting themselves.
Some of the problems confronting the potato breeder
are: In some cases it is impossible to cross one desirable
potato with another which has otherwise good characteris-

- A v \ B R E E D I N G

tics, because of non-production of fertile pollen. Again,
he must grow a great number of varieties in order to deter-
mine which have viable pollen. The climatic and soil con-
ditions greatly influence the production of fertile pollen.
There are some varieties of potatoes whose buds drop off
before opening, and some that have a few flowers open but
fall too soon. There are also some whose flowers live for
several days but frequently the pollen is not fertile. Again,
many times when the blooms do appear and the pollen is
fertile, in some cases the seed balls or fruits are seedless,
and if they do have seed it does not always germinate. In-
stantly a question arises in our minds, "Is there a means by
which we could produce this coveted fertile pollen ?" There
are, however, a few varieties which generally produce via-
ble pollen. The disease resistance of a tuber plays an im-
portant part in this matter.

After these difficulties have been overcome, the ac-
tual crossing of the plants is an easy matter. The plants
to be selected for crossing should be strong and healthy,
with good characteristics. The mother plant should be es-
pecially strong, having a desirable feature that is lacking
in the male plant, and the male plant possessing some char-
acteristics which would make a good cross.

There are two ways of pollination. First, nature's
way, self-pollination. Second, hand pollination, of which
there are several methods.

One method of hand pollination is as follows : First,
the female plant is deprived of its anthers. The anthers
stand erect in the center of the flower, like a cone. These
flowers are then covered with paper bags with some foliage
to insure moisture, for proper development. After this,
in about two days, the male plants are gathered, the pistil
removed and the pollen jarred onto the emasculated plant.

33333 3

Potato fruit and seed.

BREEDING 19

The pistil is the small, cylindrical form in the center of the
anthers. Within a week's time the blooms will have either
swollen or dropped, thus determining the success or failure
of this method of pollination.

Another method of hand pollination is: After the
selection of the mother plant, the corolla, or inner petals,
and the stamens are cut away before fully developed and
then the blossoms are bagged. At the proper time for pol-
lination, the pollen is collected from the male plant with a
fine camel's hair brush and is then dusted on the mother
plant. This is repeated for two successive days; that is,
if the pistil has not fallen. When the fruit has begun to
form, the paper bags are removed to allow free access to
the air and light. When the seed balls are ripe, they are
gathered and allowed to dry. They are then squeezed out,
as they are liable to decay if left in the fruit.

Still there is another method, one which the Japa-
nese are said to use, and is very simple. The flower of the
male plant, when in proper condition to pollinate, is dusted
by hand onto the mother plant. The plant is then covered
to keep stray pollen off the pollinated flowers.

Another method, one which I have found best in my
experience, one which is nearest nature's way, therefore
we would conclude it to be best. I do not cut the flowers in
any way, but when the flowers are to be pollinated, I limit
the blooms to two bunches, and, with the use of a fine cam-
el's hair brush, lightly dust on the pollen of the male to the
mother plant. These always being desirable crosses. Be-
fore this, however, when the mother plant is beginning to
bloom, I cover it with a cheese cloth. A frame can be eas-
ily made by pushing laths or sticks into the ground around
the vine to keep the cheese cloth from touching it. Thus
by the use of the cheese cloth the blooms have free access

20 BREEDING

to the air and light, and in no way can stray pollen fall upon
the blooms. The proper time for pollination is about the
second or third day of bloom. The pollination is repeated
for two successive days ; that is, if the pistil has not fallen.
The cheese cloth should be left on for about five or six days.
When the fruits are thoroughly ripe they are gathered,
seeds squeezed out, washed in a cheese-cloth bag, and al-
lowed to dry.

It is always a wise plan to select strong parent plants,
because they develop larger and better seed. These seed
in turn develop larger potatoes the first year from the seed
than those from a delicate plant. It is of greater import-
ance that the mother plant be strong than the male plant,
and care should be taken in selecting the most vigorous ones.

This is a fact not known by most potato experts, if any.
The way of determining the actual fertility of the potato
fruits or seed balls without the aid of a magnifying glass:
The balls are partially or wholly covered with small, white
pimples. The smooth fruits are rarely, if ever, good.

I have, in selecting crosses, chosen those with about
the same qualities, with the idea of improving them; while
at other times I have crossed the opposites, with the idea
of obtaining different and better qualities. These ideas are
both good, providing the crosses used possess favorable
points. I have noticed that the potatoes not seemingly
closely related have greater affinity for one another than
those which are apparently related.

I would not advise the potato breeder to use too much
fertilizer on the first-year seedlings. This policy is followed
by some, but is not a wise plan. The potato vines generally
grow rank and scarcely any tubers are to be found. Some
breeders use food material to induce variation, but the pota-
to naturally tends to vary even if crosses within a variety

A perfect two-year seedling

BREEDING 23

are used. However, after the first or second year from the
seed, large vines do not indicate that such excessive top
growth is opposed to the formation of tubers, as some be-
lieve. I find that large vines make large tubers and a great-
er quantity. But if a so-called "run out" or "stray" is
found, it must be noted that the vine is overgrown and very
few tubers are to be found.

In selecting the seedlings from year to year, always
choose the one nearest your own ideal of a perfect potato.
Keeping this in mind, select and plant for eight years; or,
if planted twice a year, for four years. By this time your
potato will have reached a true-to-type one.

The seedlings must be grown several years in a com-
parison test ; that is to determine the best type before a def-
inite selection is made. The discovery of a way in which
potatoes are bred up to a pure strain within less time is of
great advantage to the potato world.

By the use of the potato cuttings from seedling vines
making four crops in one season, then the tubers produced
used for early spring and fall planting for the next two
years, the development would be shortened.

In comparing and selecting the seedlings each year the
qualities to be kept in mind, in addition to productiveness
and uniformity in size and shape, are :

1st. The largest seedling should be selected each year.
By so doing the potato will have reached its highest state
of development within a shorter period or will be a larger
potato when developed, which is a quality the people of Cal-
ifornia want.

2nd. Select those that are hardiest, consequently less
liable to disease. The vigorous potatoes are more drought or
disease resistant, and by the selection of such progeny the
breeder is always assured a potato of good quality and yield.

24 BREEDING

3rd. Those that are most adapted to peculiarities in
climatic and soil conditions.

In cutting seedlings, it is always advisable to cut and
throw away the blossom end of the potato ; that is, the bud-
eye cluster. This end, when planted, is more liable to cause
prongy tubers, although the tubers produced from this end
are more disease resistant.

In order to insure a good development during the first
year or season's planting of the potato seed, it is advisable
to allow the seedling a long growing period. They require
from five to nine months, depending on all conditions. It is
well to plant as early as possible, if planted in the field.

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 25

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO.

CHAPTER II.

|N the growing of a profitable crop of potatoes, I
would say that the first important factor is that
of good seed. The next of importance is good
soil. Without both these necessities, a good
crop of potatoes cannot be produced. Good seed potatoes
are known by their yield and quality when cared for proper-
ly. Good seed will produce a fairly good crop in poor soil,
but poor quality seed in the most fertile soil will not give
good results.

The average potato grower is careless in that he allows
his seed stock to become mixed with other varieties. This
is decidedly undesirable. These mixtures are generally of
a poor quality, and the grower should look to discarding
them, as well as the diseased ones. This demands, or should
demand, the special study and attention of the grower.
Study and learn the varieties, and discard the unproductive
strains! Again I would emphasize the importance of un-
mixed seed. If a mixture of early and late potatoes were
planted, the result is, naturally, an uneven germination;
and scarcely any of the late tubers are set on when those of
the early varieties are ready for market. The great loss to

26 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO

the grower can be readily seen, and is enough within itself
to pay for the good seed.

The majority of potato growers in California and else-
where use "culls," or inferior seed. Thus doing, they invite
an unfavorable quality as well as yield. The belief that is
prevalent throughout the country that the average culti-
vated potato shows a tendency to degenerate or "run out"
is true. It is quite a natural result, caused from lack of
knowledge or carelessness in the selection of the seed po-
tatoes. The inferiors are used year after year, and the re-
sultant crops are very poor. The fact that like produces
like is essentially true in the potato as well as other plant
life. If the best of seed were used, planted in good soil and
handled properly, this tendency of degeneration would soon
be overcome, and better prices could be demanded for the
better grade of potatoes. If studied closely and carefully,
each variety may be found to have unproductive strains.
These potatoes are generally curly topped. These should
always be discarded, so that the variety grown be kept to its
highest standard of development.

In my experience I have learned that strong plants pro-
duce many times the number of good tubers than the weak
plants, and in some cases the poor seed does not produce any
marketable tubers whatsoever. Therefore, I would say
that the selection of seed should be conducted with the
greatest of care.

Now arises the question, "What is good seed?" Too
much stress cannot be laid on this ever-important and in-
teresting subject, the production of good potatoes.

1st. The tubers used for seed must be strong, vigor-
ous, and productive.

2nd. Must be pure and unmixed.

The best hill of seedlings I ever produced, being eighteen
smooth potatoes, and not an ounce difference in weight.

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 29

3rd. Should be firm and with the sprouts just showing
at planting time, as shown on page 33.

4th. Should have been selected at digging time. This
is called "Hill Selection."

5th. Must have been carefully and properly handled.

6th. The seed should not be too ripe or mature.

7th. The seed should not show any disease whatever,
or have any rotten spots.

8th. The seed must not be too old or too new.

Potatoes that have been sprouted two or three times
are not the best for seed. They are too old. Each time
they are sprouted they become weaker. When they are at
this age, the sprouts, if there are any, are weak and thread-
like. If such potatoes are planted, they will not grow, as
they are too delicate to send out a top. If they do happen
to grow, there will be small, pea-like tubers form just in or
outside of the eyes. The seed piece may be firm, but be-
cause of the age it will not reproduce. The nature of the
potato is to reproduce, so if it cannot send up a top, the
small tubers will form in the eyes of the old potato. If
these old tubers are opened, it will be noted that they are
hollow or are water-soaked, and the quality very poor.
Page 37 shows such a potato that had been planted for
three weeks.

The newer seed, that with the first sprouts just show-
ing, comes up more readily and possesses greater vitality
than older seed. That is one of the serious faults of the
growers in some districts of California. They use seed that
is old and has sprouted badly. The sprouts are sometimes
several inches long before the potatoes are planted, conse-
quently the potatoes have not the strength left in them to
make a good crop. Those plants that do come up are weak,
therefore more subject to disease. In some experiments I

30 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO

have tested new potatoes with the sprouts just showing,
and old ones that had been sprouted in soil infected with
jelly-end and rot. The tubers from the new seed did not
show a sign of the disease, while those of the old seed were
badly infected. The new seed is more liable to be prongy
or knotty, but this can be overcome by cutting away the
blossom end.

Another serious fault of some potato growers is to
leave culls lying on the ground from year to year. The
weaker hills are always more liable to disease and always
produce small tubers. If these small tubers or culls are left
on the ground, the new crops and the land is bound to be-
come infected with the disease ; and if this way of handling
the crop is continued, the disease will increase with great
rapidity and soon no crop can be raised.

I have noticed in a volunteer hill of potatoes, where they
have lain on the ground over winter, that the center eye in
the bud or blossom end is always the first one to sprout. It
is this eye that produces the crop resulting in prongy tubers,
and I maintain that this center eye in the blossom end is the
eye that finally causes the "running out" of the potato, al-
though it is the strongest eye and is the first to come up
when planted. The grower should not, therefore, under
any circumstance, allow culls to lay on the soil where the
same crop is to be grown the following year. These culls
cause the degeneration of the potato, breed diseases and
tuber moth. If, instead, these culls were used for stock
feed, either in the raw state or cooked, they would more
than pay for the trouble, and the following crop would be
greatly improved.

I have learned that it is wise to change the soils used
for potatoes from year to year. If they are planted in peat-
land one year, the seed produced should be planted in a

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 31

lighter, but not too light, loam the following year. The
stand and yield is always increased. This is a practice not
known to most potato growers.

The year 1916 I had a 98% stand, and a yield at the
rate of four hundred sacks per acre. This land has been in
potatoes every year for twenty-three years. I attribute
this to the selection of good seed, planted at the proper time
and well cared for. The field picture is shown on page 41.
We would naturally conclude, then, that the value of good
seed cannot be overestimated. As much cultivation is put
into a 50% stand as a 98% stand, and almost the same ex-
penditures would produce a 98% to 99% crop. The gain in
the resulting crop from the use of good seed would be sur-
prising. While the 50% stand would hardly pay expenses,
with an 80 to 85% stand the grower would realize a good
net profit. When potatoes are a good price, a great number
of farmers buy any seed just so it is cheap, plant it, and ex-
pect a good crop. Instead, the results are poor and a very
inferior quality of potatoes are produced — thus the loss of
time and money. They find that they cannot obtain a good
price for such quality of potatoes, so sell them at a very low
price to get rid of them. This floods the market with poor
quality potatoes, consequently the conscientious grower
will lose indirectly to a certain degree. Then the inexperi-
enced farmer decides there is nothing in it, so stops growing
them until the price is high again, when he begins again en-
thusiastically with the same method of poor seed, and nat-
urally produces the same results.

The man who makes a success in potato-growing, as in
any other business or profession, is the one who has the
stick-to-it-iveness. He is the one who will get the best of
seed, no matter what the first cost is, and will always pro-
duce good potatoes. He will get the best price for them,

32 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO

because such potatoes are very scarce. In fact, it is a hard
matter to find them. That is the reason I advocate so
strongly the use of good seed.

You may ask, "How will we tell good seed ?" By look-
ing at them it may be ascertained whether or not they are
sound, firm, or diseased to a certain extent. But whether
or not the seed will produce a good crop cannot be deter-
mined. The only way, then, is to try several varieties in
your particular soil. By hill selection year after year of
the best (that is, the most productive and of the best quali-
ty), your potatoes may be brought up to a high standard of
development. But if the growers cannot take this time to
learn the best, it is always advisable to buy of some recog-
nized seed potato grower, or a reliable seed firm.

I have some potatoes that cannot be surpassed for peat
land or damp, heavy soil, although when planted in the peat
land they would not sell for marketable potatoes, as they
are too large, rough, and deep-eyed. This same potato,
when planted on other loamy soil, makes the largest yield of
any I have ever tested. They are of a good size and exceed-
ingly good for market. It is quite a remarkable fact, the
difference in size and shape in a variety of potatoes grown
in different soils. Those grown on weaker, light soils are
likely to be more smooth and uniform, as far as looks are
concerned. When seed quality and vitality are considered,
the tubers that are grown on the rich soils are far superior,
though they be rough, deep-eyed, and ill-shaped. This po-
tato, if changed to a lighter loam, will come out smooth and
large ; also the yield will be greatly increased. Inheritance
plays an important part in the size and shape of the tuber,
yet to a great extent these factors are determined by the
kind of soil, fertilizer, and care given the crop.

There is an increasing demand for fancy table stock,

A good seed potato, in proper condition to plant.

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 35

and if the use of good seed were persisted in, the grower
would be paid the higher price for the better quality pota-
toes, and consequently the subject of "Improvement of the
seed potato" hence "The development of high grade mar-
ketable tubers" is receiving more attention than heretofore.

The successful grower gives his most careful attention
to the source of his seed supply. He either becomes an ex-
pert himself in the growing of the crop or buys of some rec-
ognized seed potato grower or seed firm. As a result his
average yields are enormous in comparison to the one who
is careless in his seed selection.

The development of the best grade seed potatoes is not
a perplexing problem; however, great care, attention, good
judgment, and correct methods must be persisted in year
after year. If the grower has not the time to develop his
own seed into the best grade — seed of the best quality and
highest productiveness — he must, for several reasons, buy
his seed from a recognized seed potato grower — one who
makes a specialty of growing varieties of a pure, strong,
and vigorous type. It is preferable to buy of one whose
seed potatoes are grown on rich soil, as this seed is more
vigorous and will be more disease-resistant. Thus he will
obtain better results from the seed grown in this soil than
that grown in lighter soils. Never obtain seed from a seeds-
man whose stock is not free from mixtures with other vari-
eties. To insure the maintenance of their strength and vi-
tality the seed must be kept pure. The grower's average
yield of marketable potatoes should be from two to four hun-
dred sacks per acre. This insures the buyer the best of
seed.

Considerable dependence can be placed upon the appear-
ance of the tops in hill selection. The vine with one hardy
stem is always better than two or three weaker ones. When

36 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO

once learned, the tops will tell about the yield to expect, the
size of the tubers, the number, and where they lay can be
easily determined. When the grower is able to do this, he
may figure very closely the yield per acre, what proportion
will be of marketable size, and the proportion of culls. The
tops of the potatoes will vary in different soils and varie-
ties. Some will be different in color and the leaves shaped
differently. Where the soil is extraordinarily rich, it will
be noticed that the hills with two or three stalks have bet-
ter marketable potatoes than those with one stalk. Where
the soil is so rich, in a hill with just one stalk, the tubers
will be too large for market. If the soil is weak and light,
it will be noted that the large top with one sturdy stem pro-
duces a better size than those with more.

To those who care to grow their own seed to improve
them, thus raising their potatoes to a high standard of de-
velopment, I advise to carefully select them at digging time.
This is called "hill selection." These potatoes should be
carefully dug by hand, avoiding cuts and bruises. Each
man should use two cans, one for select tubers of uniform
size and shape for seed, the other for marketable tubers.
Each hill should be dug separately. If in a hill of potatoes
one be rough, or in any way defective, this hill should not
be used for seed.

The development of the potato to its highest standard
has proven as interesting to me as the fascinating study of
the propagation of new varieties. In my hill selection I
have taken particular care in selecting only hills with an
average of eleven or more uniform tubers. This eliminates
all unproductive plants. In continuing this line of work an
excellent strain of potatoes is always secured. The best
potato growers always place emphasis upon keeping the po-
tato true to type. If we want the best we must of necessity

The results of planting a potato when too old. This po-
tato was dug after being in the ground for three weeks.

SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 39

plant the best. The best strains always produce the best in
plant life as well as in animal life.

To the growers of California, I cannot too strongly em-
phasize the necessity of pure, vigorous seed. They are
largely exempt from disease ; and if the soil is infected with
disease, fertilise and plant to different crops that do not
breed these diseases until the soil is rid of it. When pota-
toes are grown again, be careful to select only the best of
seed, and, with the care of the crop I advocate, the yields
will be wonderfully increased.

In handling the crop the tubers should not be moved
too often; however, they should not be left in piles on the
field to sprout and lose their strength.

Potatoes for seed should always be "greened" when
using early spring seed for fall planting. Greening is to
cause them to sprout under certain conditions before plant-
ing. In other words, they are put into proper shape to grow.

The seed produced from the April planting for planting
in April of the following year becomes a little old before the
time to plant, and it is a difficult problem to stay their
growth and preserve their strength. They are stored in a
cool place until the cold weather in the fall appears. Then
they are put into a dry place before the rainy season comes,
and when the first sprouts begin to show they are put out to
green and are left in that condition until planting time. The
sprouts are generally from one-half to one inch long at this
time, and are always planted with these sprouts on. The
sprouts become tough, and are hard to remove. This seed,
when properly handled, always insures a crop about two
weeks earlier.

The importance of greening is twofold :

1st. If allowed to grow or sprout too readily before
planting, too much strength is taken from the potato, caus-

40 SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO

ing it to shrink. Therefore, the plants are stronger, are
healthier, and more vigorous if greened, and an increase of
yield is the result. The average increase in yield of green-
ed over ungreened seed is, in most instances, about twenty-
five per cent.

2nd. The tubers, when planted, mature in a much
shorter period when greened, and can reach the market
much earlier. Since it takes a shorter period to mature,
the potatoes do not have as much chance to take in disease
as when left in the soil longer. Again, if the seed is kept
in trays and greened, they will keep longer for seed pur-
poses than if kept in bins, sacks, or piles.

In greening, the potatoes should be placed not more
than two or three inches deep, and arranged so that plenty
of air and light can reach all tubers. They should be kept
in a cool, dry, shady place. An open barn or shed is gener-
ally used. Seed potatoes should always be kept in moder-
ate temperature. Some farmers' ideas of greening their
seed are very poor. Their idea of greening is by the sun,
never once thinking that the extreme heat is as injurious
as frost. The tender potatoes just taken from the soil will
stand but little heat in the sun. It is essential that they be
kept in the shade.

In conclusion of this chapter, "Selection and Care of
the Seed Potato," I would again emphasize the necessity of
good seed, for good seed is far cheaper than poor seed.

1st. Remember that marketable potatoes can be pro-
duced on poor soil with good seed much more easily than
poor seed grown on good soil.

2nd. Good seed may be obtained by a thorough and
careful "hill selection."

3rd. All tubers showing any disease or rot should be
rejected.

5! -I

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Q. O
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3 C
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SELECTION AND CARE OF THE SEED POTATO 43

4th. Select pure and unmixed seed.

5th. Weak seed produces weak plants.

6th. Greening is essential in most cases.

7th. In unselected seed stock the greater per cent are
weak and diseased, therefore unproductive.

8th. Beware of the dealer who thinks more of the
price than of the quality of his seed, or one who through
carelessness and inexperience does not keep his seed un-
mixed and vigorous.

CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 45

CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT

CHAPTER III.

FTER the seed potatoes have been greened
(when greening is needed), they are cut, limed
and allowed plenty time to heal over before
planting. The potato should be cut, first,
lengthwise through the bud-eye cluster or blossom end, and
then crosswise, depending upon the size of potatoes used.
Each seed piece should weigh not less than two ounces.
However, the piece at the stem-end should be larger, as
this end of the potato is weaker and therefore more subject
to disease than the bud-eye end. It is essential that they be
of good size, as each seed piece must have strength enough
to support a sprout, or sprouts (as the case may be), until
the feed roots are able to support them. The sprouts take
all the strength from the seed piece until the feed roots are
long enough, when the little "pumps" on the end of the
roots start working and drawing up the plant food by ca-
pillary attraction from the soil. Therefore we would rea-
sonably conclude the advantage of using a large seed piece.
If it is not large enough the sprout will be stunted and the
crop likewise will be lessened. There should be one or more,
and not over three, good eyes in each piece, and the eye or

46 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT

eyes should be as near the center as possible. Do not cu1
too close to the eye.

Some potato growers, particularly in the Eastern
states, cut out only the eyes and use them in planting. This
has been tried and will not do in California. As I have ex-
plained, the seed piece must of necessity have the strength
to force the sprout, thus increasing the yield. Those whc
practice using the eye alone for planting would get much
better results if, instead, they would use a large seed piece

Some times when seed potatoes are high and scarce
the grower will cut the seed into very small pieces, making
his seed go farther. It does, it is true, plant a larger area
but when the yield is taken into account, he will surely see
his mistake. This is a common error, and is, indeed, a seri-
ous one. The grower tries to be economical by cutting his
seed into small pieces. The lack of results from the use oj
small pieces would more than justify the use of large pieces
The fact that the smaller pieces will plant more ground wil
also make the grower more work and will not produce anj
more tubers than the smaller plot of ground and largei
pieces. Again, the piece is liable to decay before the feec
roots appear.

The discussion of the size of seed pieces brings up the
subject of the quantity of seed to use per acre. This de-
pends upon the manner in which the seed is planted, the dis-
tance of the hills and the rows, and the size of the seed
piece; also if whole or cut. I generally use from six tc
seven hundred pounds per acre in ordinary soil, but in ricli
soil not less than one thousand to fourteen hundred pounds
per acre. This, however, cannot be definitely stated. More
seed is used in rich soil because the seed piece must be
larger and each piece have more sprouts. If there is jusl
one sprout the new tubers will be too large. One sprout will

CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 47

make one sturdy stem. Such hills are usually found to have
less but better tubers under it than a hill with several weak
ones, when planted in ordinary soil. The grower should be
thoroughly acquainted with his soil, he should know the
quality of seed, and the condition his soil is in before plant-
ing. Then he may know about the quantity to use.

If there are, by chance, any potatoes in your seed stock
showing decay, cut and throw that part away. The decay
or disease generally shows in the stem end first. If there
are any yellow or black streaks, cut that part away, too, as
it is disease. If the yellow streaks reach through the po-
tato, it will not do for seed ; but if only part of it is infected,
that part which is good may be used for seed. Again, you
may find in your seed stock some potatoes that have been
sprouted once or twice. These are too old to plant, and
should be cast aside as inferior. Any disease that is left in
the seed piece will inoculate the new crop of potatoes. As
the strength goes out of the old potatoes into the sprouts
and thence into the new tubers, so will the disease.

The grower should cut and lime the potatoes to be used
for seed several days before planting. If the seed is new
and not sprouting, it should be cut and limed from eight to
ten days before planting. If the seed is a little old, it should
be cut about five days before planting, to keep it from losing
its strength. Seed when cut and limed always proves to
produce much more than when unlimed. The use of lime
on seed potatoes serves well several purposes:

1st. It prevents, to a certain extent, bugs and worms
eating the potato.

2nd. Lime within itself is a fertilizer.

3rd. The seed that is limed is less liable to disease, as
it prevents disease germs entering the tubers. Disease
germs never enter the potato unless the skin is broken or

48 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT

cut without being healed over with lime. Therefore, i:
well covered with lime, the potato will be protected fron
disease germs to a certain degree.

4th. Lime acts as a preservative. The seed pieces wil
keep longer when planted with lime than without it.

5th. When cut potatoes are limed, a thick covering o:
new skin is made on the cut surface, and is stronger thai
the old skin. This keeps the seed from losing its strength

6th. The expense is very small and no time is wasted

Many growers believe that lime is a detriment to thi
growing of potatoes, but I am decidedly in favor of its use.

I have tested growing potatoes with and without liming
when there are hard, black streaks reaching through th<
potato, this being the first stage of decay. I have taken tei
potatoes, cut each into four equal parts, and planted withou
lime, and ten with lime. Out of the ten tested without lime
three came up before the pieces decayed, and the other sevei
decayed away before the sprouts came through. Out of th<
ten tested with lime, eight came up and looked a great dea
hardier than the three without lime. This, I think, shoul<
prove the value of lime in the growing of a profitable crop o
potatoes.

It is always advisable to procure the lime to be used sev
eral days or weeks before cutting and planting time, and ai
slake it. Since the starch in the potatoes absorb the lime
the cut tubers will be burned if the lime is too new ; that is
if not well air slaked.

In slaking the lime, I always spread it out in thin layer;
so it will be exposed to the air. Several weeks* time is need
ed to slake it well before using. However, the time depend]
greatly upon the weather conditions. The test in determin
ing whether or not it is well air slaked is to pour a littli

CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 49

water upon a small quantity of the lime. If there is any
heat whatever, the lime is not well slaked.

Most potato growers, in the handling of their crops, use
kerosene oil cans. The tops are taken out, the edges ham-
mered down so the potatoes will not be cut or bruised, and a
handle is easily fitted in at the top. These make a very
handy can in the handling of potatoes. I use them alto-
gether.

In cutting the seed potatoes, have ready a pan of air
slaked lime, and a paddle that will hold about two or three
tablespoons of lime. Cut about one-half of a can of potatoes
and then sprinkle a paddle of lime over them, shaking the
can at the same time. This distributes the lime well over
the seed. That which does not stick to the potatoes will
drop to the bottom of the can. When the can is full,
sprinkle another paddle of lime and shake as before. When
the cans of cut seed are emptied into the sacks, the lime that
has fallen to the bottom of the cans will reach all sides of
the seed.

After the seed has been cut and limed, they are put into
sacks partially full. The sacks should not be piled or the
cut seed bruised in any way. Let them stand with an air
space between the sacks of about three or four inches, so
that fresh air might circulate around and through them.
Always keep them in a cool, shady place.

When seed potatoes have been harvested in September
and October, and are to be planted in December or January
or February, the seed must be cut two weeks before plant-
ing. If, however, this same seed is not planted until March,
they should not be cut over two or three days before plant-
ing. Such seed would be considered old. They do not have
the vitality at that time and would lose considerable strength
if kept longer. When the seed that has been harvested in

50 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT

November or December is planted in March or April, it
should be cut about two weeks before planting. For good
seed for the July planting, the seed to be used should have
been harvested by the first of May, placed upon shallow
trays and greened. Potatoes at all times should be kept in
a cool, shady place. In my experience with the July and
August planting I have learned that potatoes cut and limed
from three to four weeks before planting come up more
evenly.

Every grower should know his own soil. When plant-
ing in soil that is extraordinarily rich, the seed pieces should
have more sprouts than when planted in lighter soil. But
in soil that is not overly rich, the seed pieces should have
but one sprout. In other words, the plant food which is
lacking in the soil is made up in the strength of the seed
piece, or visa versa. One sprout from a seed piece will pro-
duce as much in weight as three or four sprouts in the same
soil and under the same conditions. However, the hills
with more sprouts produce more in number, but the tubers
are smaller than those produced from one sprout. For in-
stance, if one potato when planted in rather light soil pro-
duces three sprouts, the tubers produced would be small,
but if planted in rich soil the tubers would be a good
size. But if in the same soil a potato is planted which has
but one sprout, the tubers produced would be large, and
if planted in rich soil the tubers produced would be too large.
The fact that each hill has a certain number of square inch-
es to draw its plant food from, makes it clear that the more
tubers in each hill the less weight in each tuber there will
be. The one tuber produced will weigh as much as the three
smaller ones if planted in the same soil. In using new seed
to plant, when the first sprouts are just showing, with a
good-sized seed piece and planted in ordinary soil, just one

CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT 51

sprout will be produced. In such new seed generally just
one sprout appears ; but if aged, and under certain climatical
conditions, all eyes will sprout, and two or three stalks may
grow from each eye.

There are several reasons why whole seed is not used
extensively in California: 1st. Because the small whole
tubers used are generally "culls ;" consequently an inferior
crop is produced. Large pieces cut from large potatoes
yield more. 2nd. The cost is greater, and more seed pota-
toes are required, and does not increase the yield sufficiently
to justify its use, unless the soil is extraordinarily rich.
However, if whole tubers are grown especially for seed pur-
poses, planted closely so they do not become too large, they
are satisfactory, and are much better than the small tubers
taken from the field.

In European countries, whole seed, greened and sprout-
ed, is used extensively, and such seed makes a crop from two
to three weeks earlier.

Cut seed potatoes are generally advisable in California,
although whole seed is advisable at times. Its use is grow-
ing more popular than heretofore.

The soil must be extraordinarily rich, or the seed new,
so that just one or two sprouts are produced. Whole seed
must never be too old. If the seed is too old, too many
sprouts will come from one hill, making the tubers unmarket-
able. Whole tubers must always be very new to produce one
sprout in light soil.

The use of small whole tubers from the field is not ad-
visable, because it is generally the diseased plants that pro-
duce small tubers, and a very unsatisfactory yield and qual-
ity would result. However, when whole tubers are used,
they should be from seed that had been planted closely es-

52 CUTTING AND PREPARING THE SEED TO PLANT

pecially for seed purposes, and the tubers dug while imma-
ture.

In conclusion of this chapter on "Cutting and Preparing
Seed to Plant," I would impress on the grower's mind these
facts :

1st. Always use good-sized seed pieces in planting.
The stand and yield of the resultant crop from the use of
such pieces will be very favorable.

2nd. Always lime with well air slaked lime, when cut-
ting. Through the use of lime the crop will be less liable to
disease. Lime is a fertilizer, acts as a preservative, and
will partially protect the seed from being eaten by insects.

3rd. Always keep the seed in a cool, dry place.

4th. It is well to cut the seed pieces at the stem end
of the potato larger than the other pieces. The strongest
eyes are on the blossom end and each eye nearer the stem
is weaker.

A cutting ready for planting. The use of cuttings is
not profitable, unless the grower has only a few hills
and wishes to increase the amount of tubers for the
following crop, as four crops can be grown in one year.
The line shows the depth to plant.

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 55

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING.

CHAPTER IV.

| T is of the utmost importance in the growing of a
profitable crop of potatoes to cultivate deeply as
well as thoroughly. The soil should be well fertil-
ized with both the dry manure and a green crop,
if lacking in humus. This green crop or mulch should be
sown, preferably, in the fall of the year preceding the
planting. By so doing the green crop will have reached the
desired height by the time of the early spring planting. As
soon as this crop is ready, plow under and prepare the soil
thoroughly by the use of a harrow, if the soil has a tendency
to bake or crust. This working will make the soil fine, mel-
low, and moist, an ideal condition for a crop of potatoes. In
any soil it is well to plow the ground quite deeply, but do
not turn up too much subsoil at one time. It is well not to
plow more than two inches deeper than was plowed the year
preceding, thus deepening the soil gradually until the de-
sired depth has been attained. From seven to nine inches
is a good depth to plow for potatoes.

56 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING

The fertilizers used for the production of potatoes are
dry barnyard manure, green manures, and commercial fer-
tilizers. I have tested out several commercial fertilizers
but without good results. However, the best fertilizers,
those containing about 3 or 4% of nitrogen, 6 to 8% of
phosphoric acid, and 8 or 10% of potash, give good results —
one thousand pounds or more being used if spread broad-
cast, but if drilled along the rows, less than that amount is
used. It should be mixed with the soil to prevent it coming
in contact with the seed. The best fertilizers for the pro-
duction of good potatoes is barnyard manure, followed by a
green crop. This should be spread broadcast over the field.
It should be put out in the fall and plowed under just before
the sowing of a green crop. The best green manure or mulch
is Texas red oats and vetch combined. This makes a heavy
crop to turn under before or while plowing for the spring
crop. It is a wise policy to combine the green with the dry
manure, as the dry fertilizer used alone breeds scab — par-
ticularly if in close contact with the tubers.

This is a fact not known to most potato growers. The
green crop during its decomposition forms an acid, counter-
acting the effects of the dry manure.

Nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash are the three es-
sential plant foods in all soils, and are the most liable to be
deficient after several croppings. These are the three plant
foods needed in fertilizers. The dry manure contains a
good per cent of these, and with the combination of this fer-
tilizer and the green crop, practically all the plant foods are
obtained. Clover is a good cover crop, as it takes the ni-
trogen from the air and thence to the soil. It contains more
nitrogen than other legumes.

The "pumps" on the feed roots cannot absorb any plant
food unless it is in liquid form. This is the reason that the

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 67

soil should be loose and fine. The plant foods are decom-
posed by the action of the light, sun, and air, and are, there-
fore, made soluble. Such fertilizers add the required hu-
mus to the soil. All legume crops, such as burr clover,
vetch, Texas red oats, and Melilotus Indica — in fact, any
legume crops — are good, providing they make a heavy crop.

The soil best adapted to the cultivation of potatoes is
an extraordinarily rich soil. These soils are generally dark,
being a mass of decayed vegetation. However, any soil
that is rich and mellow, regardless of color, will yield an
abundance of good potatoes, providing all other conditions
are favorable, including climatic conditions. There are, and
always will be, some regions peculiarly adapted to the cul-
ture of the potato. We would say, then, that good soil for
potatoes must contain a large proportion of humus, and it
is well that this humus be well decomposed at planting time,
making the soil fine, loose, and without preventing a free
circulation of air.

Most potato growers prefer a light, sandy, loam soil.
The crop and the quality of the potato is generally poor if
planted in an extremely light or a heavy clay soil. The po-
tatoes grown on a mellow soil will be smooth, while those
grown on the heavy clay soils will be ill-shaped. But if
your soil has already been chosen for your potato crop, and
is a heavy, retentive soil, it is better to select some variety
of potatoes that are almost round, and you will note the
shape of the tubers produced will be much better than those
of the longer variety. Another remedy for the poorer and
heavier soils is, as I have stated, the use of dry and green
manures each year, if possible. By doing this, there will
be more plant food and humus put into the soil each year
than is taken out, increasing the value and improving the

58 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING

texture of the soil, as well as the yield and quality of the po-
tatoes.

It is not advisable to plant potatoes in soil ever contain-
ing any amount of alkali. It is not a soil suited to the
growth of potatoes. Potatoes grown in this soil are general-
ly scabby. If the soil is irrigated during the growing per-
iod, the alkali appears on the surface of the ground, comes
in contact with the tubers, bites them and causes scab.
Land that is deficient in fertility or humus should not be
used for the growing of potatoes.

Before the planting of a crop of potatoes, the land
should be prepared well. Much of the future success of the
crop is dependent upon this condition. The potatoes germi-
nate more rapidly, through the circulation of air, are not
likely to decay, and the greater ease of culture of the crop
is apparent.

If the soil is dry, irrigate well before starting to pre-
pare it for planting. By digging well into the subsoil, the
moisture conditions can be determined; and if there is a
shortage, give the land a thorough soaking. The upper
moisture should penetrate to the deep subsoil moisture.
When the surface is dry enough to work without sticking,
plow the ground thoroughly and harrow as fast as a small
area is plowed, to prevent the loss of moisture. The soil
should be harrowed and re-harrowed until it is fine, moist
and mellow. This working kills all the small weeds, and at
the same time puts the soil into excellent condition for
planting.

If it has not been convenient to prepare the soil so well
before planting, it is advisable to plow under the green crop
and plant at the same time. If planting in dry soil (where
it has been impossible to irrigate) in the late fall or winter,
from November to the middle of December, the grower gen-

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 59

erally depends upon the first rain to start his crop growing,
and he waits till then to work his soil. The potatoes are
dropped in the ground while dry, and when the rain comes
the surface of the soil is worked before the potatoes are up.
This soil must be of a mellow texture. The time for plant-
ing this crop is from November to the middle of December.

When planting in wet soil — that is, soil that is never
dry, such as the peat land — always plow and work it thor-
oughly a month or so before planting. If the soil is very
wet at planting time, open up furrows with a large cultivat-
or plow, wing shovel plow — in fact, any that will serve the
purpose of throwing the dirt both ways, leaving the furrow
from five to seven inches deep. If the soil is wet and cold,
these furrows should be left two or three days to dry before
planting. When the potatoes are planted, cover lightly, not
over two inches deep at first. After two weeks, harrow
crosswise. This finishes covering them and levels the soil.
When covering lightly the first time, use a harrow running
lengthwise, keeping the horses on the ridge so they will not
trample on the potatoes. In planting in March and April,
be careful that the potatoes are deep enough to be out of the
way of the tuber moth.

In deeper planting, of about four to six inches, do not
cover up the pieces completely, if planted in cold weather;
but if planted in the warm season, cover completely. The
deeper planting is used in the lighter soils, and shallower
planting of about three to four inches in the heavy and re-
tentive soils. In early winter in Southern California, dur-
ing the months of November, December, January, and as
late as the middle of February, the seed is planted shallower,
as the ground is too cold and moist. They are planted about
three or four inches deep at this time. Deep planting is
generally considered the best, except in winter. If the tu-

60 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING

ber moth is troublesome, it is necessary to plant deeply.
The tuber moth makes its appearance more often in soil
that has not been worked finely than in the mellow soil. In
deep planting, if possible, plant from four to six inches,
partly cover, and leave two weeks, then finish covering with
a harrow running lengthwise, and with the teeth straight.

If planting while plowing during winter months of No-
vember to February, it is best to leave the soil as it has fall-
en after plowing, for two weeks. Then harrow crosswise
at a depth of about two or three inches, working the
soil surface thoroughly. After four or five days it should
be harrowed again, this time lengthwise of the rows. The
last time it should be harrowed crosswise, this being just
before the plants are up.

If the soil is fouled with weeds, or a shower of rain
comes before the plants are up, the soil is liable to crust;
and as soon as the rows can be seen it is well to harrow
lengthwise, being careful to keep the horses in the middle
of the rows. The harrowing will not injure the tops, and
is the first and best cultivation the plants ever get. The
harrowing stirs the surface of the soil and leaves it free
from weeds, and the soil in excellent condition. The harrow
is best for this cultivation, as any other implement, such as
the cultivator, leaves a strip of uncultivated soil between
the hills.

In planting from the months of March to August, in
any soil, the potatoes should be planted from four to six
hiches deep. However, if the soil is wet, partly cover at
first, and in about two weeks harrow crosswise. If the soil
is dry and is to be irrigated, they should be covered com-
pletely and harrowed thoroughly to hold the moisture.

The medium and main crop is planted in March and
April, and in some parts of California as late as the tenth of

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 61

May. Potatoes planted in July and August are considered
a late planting.

The best season for planting potatoes in ordinary soils,
where it is not extraordinarily dry or wet, is from the first
to the fifteenth of February, for a heavy yield. For the best
price, the time to plant is in December or January. The
yields at this time are not so great, and some seasons the
crops are apt to be frost-bitten. However, if the grower
wishes to take the risk in the early planting, he will receive
in pay good prices and a quick sale.

The best season for planting low, wet land, which is
more or less subject to frost, is from the twentieth of March
to the fifth of April. In higher altitude frost appears later
and earlier than in the low altitude. The grower should
know when to expect frost. In some places potatoes cannot
be planted until the first of May. At this planting, if the
seed is taken from a lower altitude, the grower should se-
lect his seed from potatoes planted in July or August of the
previous year, and dug in December. This seed should be
moved to the higher altitude as soon as dug, where they are
to be planted by the first of May or later. The seed will
keep in a cold climate, but if the same seed were kept in a
lower climate the same length of time, it would be too old to
plant. The reason for this is that the cold retards the
growth of the potato and they stay dormant until the warm-
er weather arrives.

Another point not known to potato growers is that the
changing of soils from year to year keeps it to its highest
standard of quality and productiveness. Potatoes grown
on a low, wet soil, such as the peat land, should be planted
on a higher, drier soil the succeeding year.

In the growing of potatoes it is customary to plant so
as to admit of cultivation in one direction only, the rows be-

62 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING

ing spaced from thirty to thirty-six inches, depending upon
the kind of soil, if dry or moist, whether the varieties grown
are early or late, if they have naturally large tops and are
heavy yielders or small.

In dry soil the rows should be about thirty-six inches
apart, so that ditches or furrows for irrigation, in the center
of the rows, may be deep enough to run water without flood-
ing the tops. If the tuber moth is troublesome, the rows
should be farther apart to admit of better cultivation. The
varieties with large tops need wider spacing than the small-
er-topped varieties.

Tubers of early or small yielding varieties may be plant-
ed closer than those of the large yielding varieties, also
when planting in rich soil. There is not much gained by
planting too close together, at any time. The yield and size
of the tubers are greatly decreased. The early varieties
of potatoes do not yield as much as the late potatoes, as they
mature much more rapidly.

The seed potatoes are dropped from fourteen to seven-
teen inches in the hills, always planting one seed piece to the
hill. Some growers advocate the use of two pieces to the
hill, but if the seed is good, one piece is much better. The
hills are generally spaced farther apart when the rows are
closer.

A grower who will give it a little thought, will soon
learn the variety of potatoes to use in his soil, and the best
spacing for them, the fertility of the soil and the size of the
tubers desired to be taken into consideration.

Seed potatoes must not be planted too soon after they
are dug. It is essential that they have a certain amount of
time to lay dormant and rest. The time required is general-
ly from two to three months. In the interior or where the
climate is warm, less time is required than along the coast.

PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING 63

However, the seed should be six weeks old before it is plant-
ed. Seed for the July and August planting should have
been planted in December and January to be of the proper
age. For good seed to plant in December and January, the
potatoes should have been planted in the latter part of March
or the first of April. To plant in March and the first of
April, the seed potatoes should have been planted the year
preceding. Potatoes may be forced to grow sooner, but by
forcing the growth the yield will be less than when they
have a longer rest period. They must have time to change
from starch to sugar. It is this chemical change that takes
place before the potato begins to grow. The bud-eye por-
tion of the potato develops a sprout sooner than the stem
end, as this change takes place more readily. The bud-eye
cluster or the blossom end of a potato develops quickly and
has more vitality, but the tubers produced from that end
are generally rough and are varied in size. The stem end
will produce more uniform potatoes. However, if a tuber is
diseased, this is the first to be affected. If an early crop of
potatoes is desired, the bud-end pieces may be used, as they
grow more rapidly. I have experimented by planting
pieces cut from the stem and blossom ends separately. I
find that those planted from the stem end become more uni-
form in size and shape from successive plantings.The longer
this practice is continued the more uniform these potatoes
become. The longer the bud-eye is planted the rougher the
tubers produced become. It is the center eye of this end
that finally causes the "running out" of the potato, and in
growing is the first eye to show, and is the first eye to grow
when planted.

In the planting of seed potatoes, I would advise the
grower to avoid all planters that will bruise or cut them, as

64 PREPARING TO PLANT AND PLANTING

such seed when planted is liable to decay. Since it loses its
vitality, disease germs are free to enter.

In conclusion of this chapter, I would emphasize the
following :

1st. Good seed.

2nd. Cultivate deeply as well as thoroughly.

3rd. By the use of fertilizers humus is added to the
soil.

4th. The soil should be prepared well before planting.

5th. It is a wise policy to change soils from year to
year.

6th. Do not plant too close together. This is a com-
mon error.

This illustration shows how to plant to reproduce on top
of the vine. This also isn't practical, unless the grower
wishes a number of tubers to plant the following year.
The line shows the depth the top should be planted.

CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 67

CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION.

CHAPTER V.

RACTICALLY all the cultivation of a potato crop
is done before they are up, although the growing
plants need a great amount of thorough cultiva-
tion. Cultivation is not only for the purpose of
loosening the soil, therefore conserving the moisture, but
for the killing of weeds and germs as well, and allowing the
sun, heat, and air to penetrate the soil, thus causing the de-
composition of the fertilizers and allowing the tubers the
ideal conditions they require during formation. The thorough
cultivations warm the soil and cause a deeper root system.
Therefore cultivation increases producing power, by retain-
ing the moisture, making the plant food available, allowing a
circulation of air to pass about the forming tubers, and kill-
ing the weeds, thus allowing the plant food that would be
uselessly wasted to go toward making a better crop.

Level cultivation generally proves more satisfactory —
that is, where the climate and soil conditions are favorable.
However, where irrigation must be practiced, the hill cul-
ture or ridge system is used. Level cultivation is practiced
where the soil is of a naturally moist nature, or in soils where

68 CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION

the grower depends upon the rains to produce his crop.
When hills are thrown up there is a greater amount of sur-
face soil exposed to the sun, and, consequently, the evapora-
tion of the moisture is greater.

The first cultivation after the plants are up and the
rows can first be distinguished is with the harrow, running
lengthwise of the rows, being careful that the horses are
kept in the middle, so they will not trample on the plants.
This harrowing will not injure the tops and is the best culti-
vation the plants ever get.

After the first cultivation with the harrow, when the
plants are up two or three inches, the cultivator is used.
On a small farm, where one-horse cultivation is practiced,
such an implement as the five-tooth cultivator best serves
the purpose. It will keep the surface of the soil fine and
mellow. It is wise to use the small sized teeth at first, so
too much dirt will not be thrown against the tops. However,
cultivate quite deeply. Always cultivate as closely to the
rows as possible without injuring or covering them with
dirt. After the first cultivation it is well each time to culti-
vate farther from the plants than the preceding cultiva-
tion, as the tubers are forming, and when the feed roots are
broken a certain per cent of vitality is taken from the grow-
ing plant.

After irrigation, or after a rain, when the soil becomes
dry enough not to stick, it should be thoroughly cultivated,
and particularly well if the soil is inclined to bake or crust.
If the soil is fouled well with weeds or weed seed, the more
frequent and thorough the cultivations the less hand work
is needed. It is impossible to state definitely the number of
cultivations needed in the growth of a crop of potatoes. The
climatic conditions, the character of the soil, and the amount
of weeds determine the frequency of cultivations needed. It

CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 69

is well to use the cultivator as much as possible, as the hoe
cuts and bruises more small tubers than the cultivator, if
handled properly. When the soil has a great amount of
weeds, the field may be harrowed just before and after the
plants are up, and cultivated well; then the weeds may be
kept in check without a great amount of hand labor.

Some potato growers believe that a small amount of
cultivation after the plants are up is all that is necessary,
but I have learned that the more frequent the cultivations,
without destroying the vines, the better. When the tops
have grown too large to cultivate without tearing them it is
best to discontinue this kind of cultivation. However, if the
weeds still persist, then the hoe may be used. The weeds
should have been destroyed before this time, as they use up
the moisture and plant food rapidly.

Potatoes, when irrigated, do not have the good quality
as when grown in a naturally moist soil, although the larger
acreage devoted to potato culture in California is irrigated.
When it is necessary to irrigate, those irrigated by capillary
attraction are of much better quality than those that are
soaked or flooded.

In the warm climates, where irrigation is necessary be-
fore the plants are up, a deep furrow should be made in the
center of the rows to run the water in so that the moisture
may be drawn up by capillary attraction, making the hills
in a comparatively loose open ridge. The furrows in the
center of the rows insure even cultivation. In such warm
climates the soil should be irrigated very lightly just after
planting, as the moisture in the soil may have evaporated to
a certain extent during cultivation. After this light irriga-
tion, when the soil is dry enough not to stick, cultivate well
and near the hills. This kills the weeds that may have start-
ed by irrigating. Each cultivation after the first should be

70 CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION

farther away from the rows and towards the center — a har-
row-tooth cultivator or one that will serve the purpose of
mellowing the soil. If it is necessary to irrigate more than
once, deepen the center furrow again and cultivate after the
irrigation. When using the harrow-tooth cultivator it is
well to narrow it so it will not tear down the loose soil that
has been thrown up against the potatoes. It should be just
wide enough to stir the wet soil in the center of the rows.

Never allow the soil to become too dry. It should be in
a mellow, fine and moist state always, but not wet. When
the soil becomes too dry, after the tubers are a certain size,
and is then irrigated, a new growth starts, and the result is
knotty tubers, and they are of a poor quality. Never allow
the water to soak around the potatoes, but allow the mois-
ture to be drawn up by capillary attraction. The best way
to determine the need of irrigation is to dig in the subsoil
beside the large vine, one that is forming tubers, as they use
up the moisture more readily than the smaller vines. If the
soil around the hills becomes too wet the leaves turn pale,
and when too dry, they become a bright, dark green shade.

When the tubers have begun to ripen they should be
allowed to mature in comparatively dry soil, so the skin may
toughen before digging.

In planting where hill culture is practiced, it is a wise
plan to grade the land. If graded to a gradual slope, when
irrigated or when rain comes the water will not stand in any
one place. If it stands in one place long it causes the soil to
become water soaked and soggy. When such poor condi-
tions exist the result will be very unsatisfactory, generally
making the tubers scabby and of a poor quality. On the
other hand, if the slope is too great, the water will make
deep ditches or washes, causing the grower severe losses.

CULTIVATION AND IRRIGATION 73

On moist soil, such as peat land, where level cultivation
is practiced, the best method of planting is to make deep
furrows, then, after planting, the soil is harrowed length-
wise, covering the pieces lightly. After two weeks it is
harrowed again, this time covering them more, but not com-
pletely filling the furrows. Afterward, in the first cultiva-
tion, the loose soil is rolled up to the rows, making the soil
levelj then a small harrow-tooth cultivator is used, one that
will keep the surface level. This is called level cultivation,
and is practiced on soils containing natural moisture.

In conclusion of this chapter on "Cultivation and Irri-
gation," I would emphasize these points :

1st. Always cultivate thoroughly.

2nd. Allow the potatoes to mature in practically dry
soil.

3rd. Never allow the soil to become too wet. Potatoes
grown in such soil are of a poor quality, more liable to
disease, and the yield is less.

4th. The number of irrigations depends upon the cli-
matic and soil conditions. One may be sufficient, but in
some instances five or six, or even more, may be needed.

5th. Cultivate the soil well before planting and less
will be needed after planting.

6th. Never allow the potatoes to become too dry. If
irrigated after they become too dry a new growth starts and
prongy tubers are the natural results.

DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 75

DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION.

CHAPTER VI.

[HE various diseases, such as scab, blight, jelly-end
rot, wilt and rhizoctonia, which are more preva-
lent in the northern districts of California than
the southern part, could be almost eliminated if
the careful system of seed selection, such as I have recom-
mended, was followed. Very fortunately for the potato
growers, more attention is being given to the selection of
vigorous seed.

When good and pure seed has been selected, the grower
should now turn his attention to these disease germs. The
best method is to plant a legumus crop of Melolotus Indica,
or Red Oats, or most any good green crop that will grow
rapidly and vigorously. When this is turned under the acid
formed will play havoc with the disease germs.

After careful cultivation and planting, when the po-
tatoes have grown to about two or four inches high, it is
wise to spray with the Bordeaux mixture. I recommend
spraying at this time rather than later, as this spray is a
preventative of disease, rather than a cure, and the sooner
the plants are sprayed the better. If the disease is in the

76 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION

seed piece or soil, it will make its appearance sooner or later,
and, if the disease is to be prevented, it should be taken in
time.

Some growers advise first spraying the plants when a
certain age. Would it be wise if smallpox, or any dreaded
disease, prevailed in a family, and some had been exposed
to it, to wait until the child was a certain age to vaccinate ?
No, this should be done early, in order to prevent it. This
same precaution should be considered in the growing of a
crop of potatoes.

After the first spraying, the plants should be sprayed
about every two weeks during their growing season. How-
ever, the crop should be sprayed just after a shower of rain,
as it is such conditions as rain followed by sunshine that
causes blight. These spores increase so rapidly that the
whole field might be blighted down in two or three days if
the sun shines warmly. Therefore, I would say that the
whole idea of spraying is to protect the vine when the dis-
ease appears.

If Paris green is added to the Bordeaux, the mixture
will adhere to the leaves, and, as it is a poison, no insects can
eat of it unless they are poisoned. Since it is a poison, it
should be handled carefully and kept away from children or
stock.

Not only is the use of this mixture advisable for in-
sects and disease, but for the increased vigor of the plant
from its use. All sprayed plants are larger and darker green,
live longer, are hardier, and produce a better crop. I should
advise to always use at the rate of one-half pound of Paris
green to each fifty gallons of Bordeaux mixture.

It is well to use a high pressure spray with fine nozzle,
so that all sides of the leaves are thoroughly coated. If the

This illustration shows a potato affected with the Wilt.

DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 79

vines are not sprayed thoroughly the insects may gain foot-
hold and a portion of the crop be destroyed.

In preparing the Bordeaux mixture, if a small amount
is to be made, have ready two half -barrel tubs, one for the
copper-sulphate solution, and the other for the lime solu-
tion. In one tub place five pounds of lime and slake with
sufficient water to thoroughly break up the lime without
allowing it to burn. After it has been thoroughly slaked,
add enough water to make five gallons of this solution. In
the other tub, put five gallons of water and suspend five
pounds of copper-sulphate in a gunny sack, so that two-
thirds of the copper-sulphate is in water and the other part
in air, as it requires air and water to dissolve. This should
be dissolved in about twelve hours. These are called the
stock solutions and will keep for some time if kept in a cool
place, but when they are mixed the spray should be used im-
mediately. When ready to spray, mix and pour enough wa-
ter into it to make fifty gallons in all. When strained and
mixed thoroughly it is ready for use. The solutions should
always be kept thoroughly stirred.

The spray treatment is generally used for the blight,
yet when the Paris green is added it is equally effective for
the small insects, such as the black flea beetle and the
Empoasca Mali, a little green hopper. If blight and insect
pests are eliminated there will be less of the other diseases
because of the consequent healthy condition of the plants.

When potatoes are blighted the larger portion of the
tubers are subject to a rot called "Jelly-End," and some-
times, when dug early, before it appears, they are generally
subject to "Dry Rot." As the blight is in the seed piece and
soil, it is wise to select good seed and spray to prevent the
appearance of the blight. Few people know or can appre-
ciate the injury done by the little black flea beetle. They at-

80 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION

tack and live on the leaves of the plant, and the damage they
do to the living plant is immense. They eat small holes into
the leaves, and, as the leaves are the "lungs" of the plant, it
is easily understood why these pests are so injurious to a
crop. These beetles are generally found on the under side of
the leaf.

The Empoasca Mali, a small, green hopper, feeds on the
under side of the leaf and seems to suck the very life from
the plant. As they increase very rapidly, a large amount of
vitality is taken from the vine before they are noticed, and,
indeed, many crops are destroyed by them.

Scab is a very common disease of the potato, but is not
so serious as generally supposed. There are several causes
for the scab: 1st. Alkali in the soil. 2nd. Too much dry
manure. 3rd. Poorly drained soil, as the alkali of the soil
when too damp will appear on the surface. The best remedy
for this disease is the use of the green fertilizer, the acid
from which counteracts the effect of the dry manure. When
this is persistently carried out, I find that there is no need of
"dipping" for scab. However, if it seems best, the grower
may soak the seed in a solution of corrosive-sublimate for
one and one-half hours, made at the rate of one ounce of
powdered corrosive-sublimate to eight gallons of water. As
this is a poison, it should be handled with care. It is a
stronger poison than the formaldehyde solution, therefore,
serves the purpose better. Since this disease stays in the
soil, it is best to treat it by the use of green fertilizer. Even
if very little disease exists, it is always wise to combine the
dry and green fertilizer, and the grower will unusually be
successful.

Wilt is a disease which works in the vine and cannot be
reached by spraying. As this disease goes from the stem
into the tuber, it is well to harvest before maturity. This

DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION 81

disease causes the vine to wilt, and often leaves the tubers
about half the size they should be, and these diseased tubers
decay quickly.

When the plants are infected with wilt or blight, there
is always a shortage of starch, causing them to decay quick-
ly. If this does not happen, the food value will be greatly
decreased. When the tuber is first formed it consists chief-
ly of water, and as it grows the starch is formed. Changing
the seed from one soil to another from year to year not only
increases the yield, by making the seed more free of disease,
but by increasing the starch content. As the feed roots give
nourishment to the vine, when the vine is affected by these
diseases, the food supply is cut off from the tuber, and, in-
stead of plant food, the disease in the stem is taken into the
tuber.

The hills of potatoes with wilt always have small tubers,
and, if these small tubers of a field are not eliminated, they
will be used as seed, and, consequently, the wilt will appear
the following season. The wilt is always introduced into a
clean field by a diseased tuber. The only way known to con-
trol this disease is to eliminate the diseased tubers from
the stock.

The tuber moth is a small moth or fly and generally ap-
pears in the tubers that are dug and left in a pile. They are
seldom seen in the peat land, but do appear at times. They
can gain a better foothold on the drier, cloddy soils. In early
plantings, I always dig and market before the potatoes are
mature, before the tuber moth appears. They seldom bother
a fall crop, planted in July or August, unless the soil is clod-
dy, which, of course, is an unfavorable condition for the soil
to be in for potatoes. The potatoes that are dug before fully
matured are less liable to disease, as they have less time to
grow, and the disease does not have the time to go into the

82 DISEASE AND ITS PREVENTION

tubers. When the tubers are cut, the disease germs may
enter easily.

Gophers are another pest to the potato grower. They
will do a great amount of damage in one night, by cutting
the vines. If the vines grow again the tubers that appear
will be prongy, and sometimes will cause small tubers to
grow on the vine, between the leaf and the stalk.

In conclusion of this chapter on "Disease and Its Pre-
vention," I would emphasize the following points :

1st. Above all things, never plant diseased potatoes.

2nd. The more thorough the cultivation and the richer
the soil, the less liable are the tubers to disease.

3rd. Cull potatoes are responsible to a great extent for
the increase of disease and should always be removed from
the fields at harvest time.

4th. In spraying it is well to use a high-pressure spray
and a fine nozzle.

5th. Never leave volunteer potatoes in the field from
year to year, as it is these small diseased tubers that cause
the spreading of disease.

W^^ :;.,,,;,

The Scottish Chief potato is the best marketable tuber
known.

HARVESTING AND MARKETING 85

HARVESTING AND MARKETING.

CHAPTER VII.

HE first step in the grading of potatoes takes us
back to the selection of seed. Unless good seed
is selected to produce the crop, we cannot expect

a yield of good marketable potatoes. The few

potatoes produced from poor seed vary so greatly in size and
shape and are of such poor quality that twice the amount
of work is required to grade. However, it is just such poor
stock that is generally found in the stores and markets, and,
consequently, must be sold for a low price. If a strict sys-
tem of seed selection and grading of the stock was used, a
better price could be demanded, and the consumer would
gladly pay the extra cost for the better quality.

The general lot of potatoes found on the market are
poor in quality, small, diseased, and, therefore, lacking in
food value. The loss to the consumer, as well as the buyer
and producer, is great, being about 50 per cent, whereas, po-
tatoes grown from good, well-sorted seed are not only more
palatable, but there is a very small per cent of waste.

When a potato is cut lengthwise, in the center will be
seen a layer resembling the trunk of a tree, with branches

HARVESTING AND MARKETING

running to each eye. This is called the internal medullary
layer and consists chiefly of water. In the analysis of a po-
tato with few eyes, it is found that it has much better food
value, as it is largely indicated by starch content, and the
part containing the most starch is near the surface. This
is called the cortical layer. Thus, we would conclude that the
potato with few eyes would not only be less waste, and be
more palatable, but would contain more food material.

In propagating and breeding my new potatoes I have
always been most careful to select those that are smooth
and with fewest eyes, and, consequently, have the best in
food value.

Unfortunately, the average grower has paid little atten-
tion to the production of the good quality potato, but has
grown them with as little expense as possible, regardless of
the palatability, not once thinking of the expense of ship-
ment of these culls, and, on account of the absence of starch,
the short time in which they remain free from decay. The
consumption of such potatoes is small, because of the un-
palatability. However, they are called potatoes, and are
used as an article of diet.

If sixty per cent of the average run of potatoes were
sent to market and about forty per cent kept to feed stock,
the grower would gain more by those sent to market, be-
cause of the higher price, besides having the forty per cent
to feed stock.

In my experience in handling graded stock, I have al-
ways received from fifty to seventy-five cents more per hun-
dred than most potato growers, and have always found an
ever-ready market for such graded stock.

I generally grade in two grades, but, if I only have one
grade for market, that is always the best. When the dealer
may depend on the grade there is always a ready market.

Young's Early Harvest King. This is the greatest
yielder of any early variety known, and is of excellent
quality.

HARVESTING AND MARKETING 89

It is well when grading to grade as though you were buying
the stock yourself. Every grower has his particular way
of digging, but whether it be with plow, digger or hook, do
not cut or bruise the tubers or throw them into piles, as they
will rot easily if handled roughly. If grading for market
while digging, the potatoes should be allowed to dry before
being sacked, so the soil will not adhere to them, making
them rough looking. However, they should never stay in
the sun too long. Such treatment causes the tender tubers
to green and decay quickly.

If potatoes are not marketed immediately they should
be kept in a cool, dry, shady place and covered so that the
light, air or sun may not strike them. If it does they will
turn green, and, in so doing, a chemical change takes place
in the cortical layer, making the potato unpalatable, the
flavor being rather sweetish, and sometimes bitter.

In harvesting the early crop in particular, it is best to
harvest before maturity — that is, before the vines are dry,
so the disease cannot enter the tuber through the stem. In
so doing the tubers will keep longer for seed or for market-
able purposes.

As to the quality of the potato, I may say that all con-
ditions of environment that lead to the normal development
of a healthy, mature potato contribute toward its quality.
The potato planted in soil three inches deep is of poorer
quality than those planted from five to seven inches deep.
I find that when they are planted from five to seven inches
deep the temperature is of more uniformity during the grow-
ing season than at shallower depths. Not only does the depth
at which the potato is planted determine its quality, but the
fertilizer, season and variety as well.

Fertilizers have a decided influence over the quality of
the potato, as they aid in producing a normal development

90 HARVESTING AND MARKETING

of tubers by furnishing an element of fertility which is lack-
ing in the soil. Some conditions that affect the table quality
of the potato are, size, and shape, fertility of soil, cultiva-
tion, climate and season, maturity, and in general the quali-
ty is increased with the thickness of the cortical layer, and
decreases as the number of eyes increase.

In conclusion of this chapter, I would impress some
points upon the reader's mind :

1st. Use good grading system, thereby building up
a good market for your particular grade.

2nd. Never leave culls in the field to become a volun-
teer crop the following season. This will finally cause the
"running out" of the potato, and where disease is evident
and the crop is harvested in this careless manner, the fol-
lowing year will increase the amount of disease.

3rd. Handle the tubers as little as possible, and care-
fully.

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