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OFFICE AND
ENTRANCE TO
GROUNDS OF
STARK BRO'S
!.TfcOUfSIANA, MO.

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LandscapeArchitects

and Ornamental

Nurserymen

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"For ten years I have dreamed a dream about a home to be.
For ten years both Molly and I have framed withm our hearts
that immortal phrase of Thomas Gray:

'And hie him home, at evenings close,
To sweet repast and calm repose.'

And-now the dream is coming true I That home of ours is to
nestle amid a setting of stately trees-in grounds adorned by
graceful clusters of pretty shrubbery. A hedge of harmonious
Lie and shape will embrace it. A rose garden-Molly s fondest
wish for years-will lend its gorgeous coloring to the landscape
plan. Beautiful flowering vines will cling to the trell

"My dream— and Molly's— is coming true !"

Copyright 1016 by Stark Bro's, Louisiana, Mo.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

MER1CANS of the present generation have come to the

isJ,m?Vj to life than

o te present generaton ave come to te reaitftoji jfe/e sJ,mp?j to e tan
mere money-making. What is great wealth if one does not know how to enjoy an'd ge£ pleasure from
it? That is the question which they have asked. The American people themselves have supplied
the answer by the great wave of interest in Landscape Gardening that has swept across our
country. Within the past few years Americans have learned to enjoy their homes and to
learn what a home really is. They have learned that it includes much more than a mere house
in which to sleep. When they speak of their home, they think of a dwelling, whether large or
.small, nestling in a planting of arching shade trees and surrounded by beautiful flowering
shrubs, with an expanse of green lawn, which gives a pleasing setting to the house. They think
of the flowering rose garden, which is the delight of the entire family; then the private portion
of the grounds, which is essentially an out-of-doors living room. Thus surrounded by Nature
and beautiful growing plants, they learn what true enjoyment of a home can mean.

Keep the Children at Home

Another important reason why the home should be made attractive is to interest the
children. With a pleasant home and an interesting garden and lawn, the children are apt
to stay closer under the influence of the home life and will not "wander from the fold."
Grown people, as well as children, like to spend their spare moments with Nature. If this
were not true, we would have no parks or gardens. In the Springtime everyone gets a touch
of Spring in his system and there is a strong desire to plant something just to see it grow.
Everyone experiences this feeling at least once a year — in the Springtime — and with most

of us the desire to always spend our idle moments near Nature is ever present because there in the garden and
"out-of-doors living room" we know we will find recreation, privacy, and rest from the strenuous American business life.

A typical American home, with

open lawns well framed with

trees and shrubs.

Increased Value of Property

Entirely aside from the question of
enjoyment of the home grounds, there
is another and more practical reason
why the home should be planted with
beautiful shrubs and shade trees. In
selling any property, it is a well-known
fact that a coat of paint goes a long
way toward closing the sale— so does
a shrub and tree planting, but even
more so. Just consider how much
more inviting to a prospective buyer is
the home shaded by beautiful trees and
blended into its surroundings by
means of graceful shrubbery, as com-
pared with the house standing alone,
unprotected from heat and sun and
presenting a bare, forlorn and uninvit-
ing appearance. After this comparison
just reflect that the difference in ori-
ginal cost between these two houses is
only a very few dollars for the shrubs
and trees. It takes only a year or two
to accomplish these results and the
cost is small. Looking at the question
from a purely business standpoint, can
you afford not to plant your home?
If you want an expert answer to this
question, inquire of any reliable
real estate appraiser. A well-known
business man of the city of Rochester
recently told the writer that in his
capacity as appraiser for one of the
large trust companies of that city, the
question of tree and shrubbery plant-
ing very often made a large difference
in the appraised value, because it was
readily conceded that a property cor-
rectly planted with trees was much
easier to sell than one which was lack-
ing in this respect. A planting planned
by Stark Bro's expert Landscape
Architects will often add 25 to 50 per
cent to the ready cash value of a place.

American Homes

There are, broadly speaking, two
classes of American homes. First,
there are the large country estates and
the expensive town or suburban resi-
dences. The owners of such properties
can usually afford to pay a large fee
for advice from local landscape archi-
tects. Stark Bro's landscape archi-

[3]

tects are frequently called upon to
consult with owners of such proper-
ties and to carry out the plantings.
The Average American Home
However, the overwhelming per-
centage of American homes do not con-
sist of such extensive proportions.
The average American home is of
moderate or small site and the sur-
rounding grounds are not large. It
would be regrettable if the wealthy
Americans were the only ones who
could enjoy the privileges of charming
and beautifully planned home grounds.
It is an unfortunate and sad reality
that this condition of affairs has been
largely true in past years. Do not
misunderstand us; the desire has been
ever present among the lovers of homes,

but owing to the lack of experience
and available information on landscape
gardening, they have not known how
to proceed to get the landscape effect
that they desired. They had not had
the opportunity to learn different char-
acters of plant growth and the correct
way to plant the grounds in order to
gain a well-balanced and correctly
planned home. On the other hand, they
could not afford to employ a landscape
architect and to stand the expense of
his fee. The result has been very dis-
couraging. Either all planting of shrubs,
flowers and trees was entirely ignored
and the home left bare, or else an
attempt has been made to set a few
trees and shrubs scattered about the
lawn without any real understanding

Customer's Sketch Sent to Stark Bro's

This is the sketch from which Stark Landscap

Department made the plan in next column.

Study the above simple sketch — then make a

similar one of your home grounds. Will

you take advantage of this offer of free

plans — see details panes a and 31.

Completed Plan Designed Free by Stark Bro':

526790

Panorama of one of Stark Bro's Ornamental Nurseries devoted exclusively to growing Shade Trees, Shrubs and Roses.

as to why or where they
should be plan ted. This
groping in the dark is
founded on the desire
to see something grow
and to watch Nature, but the final
result is always unsatisfactory, as
the planting was not considered as a
whole jior any general plan followed.

The Problem Solved by Stark Bro's
New Method of Free Landscaping

Realizing the great need and desire
of the American people for just this
sort of service, we established some
years ago a Landscape Department to
furnish free landscaping service to all
who desired it. We offer to you the
opportunity to obtain free landscaping

Acres of Hydrangeas

Growing in the Stark Nursery Blocks — will
soon bloom on thousands of lawns.

Elans also free consultation with our
indscape architects. Thus by elimi-
nating the landscape architect's fee,
by offering you shrubs and trees of
only the highest quality and best
kinds at a moderate figure, you are
enabled to plant your home grounds
at a very small cost. We hope that by
this new method we have solved this
great problem for the American people.
Small Places Even More Important

Than Large Grounds
Don't make the mistake of assuming
that a small or moderate sized prop-
erty requires a slight amount of atten-
tion in planning the landscape. This
is not true. The small place requires
very careful consideration in order to
get the best effect out of a limited
amount of space. It is even a more
difficult problem than the large country
estate. The planting on the small
place must be so arranged that it
makes the entire property appear as
large as possible, therefore, someone
understanding the principles of land-
scaping should plan your grounds. Ex-
pert advice in the planting of the small
grounds by Stark Bro's landscape archi-

tects will prevent many expensive and
unfortunate mistakes — and besides, it
costs you nothing.

What Our New Free Offer
Means to You

Stark Bro's plan of designing for you
complete planting plans without charge
will prevent many costly and dis-
appointing mistakes. Our landscape ex-
perts must consider many things in
drawing your plans : They must see that
the color combinations are harmonious
and that the skyline is not too regular,
but presents an interesting effect. They
must make the most out of existing
conditions — a small place must be
made to appear as extensive as possible,
and the attractive views must be en-
hanced and framed in. The
shrubs and trees they select
must be hardy and adapted to
the climate and soil in which
they are to be planted, and last
but not least, the ultimate and
final effect of the entire plant-
ing must be harmonious, inter-
esting and beautiful. This is the
service that Stark Bro's Land-
scape Department is offering to
you free. You can be sure that
your place will be planned cor-
rectly and that it will be equally
or more beautiful than your
neighbor's.

The Men Who Plan Your Grounds

This department includes landscape
architects who have had their training
in the foremost American colleges of
landscape archi-
tecture, in addi-
tion to years of
practical landscape
experience in the
planning and
planting of proper-
ties. All of these
men are experts in
their line. You can
depend on their
judgement, which
is backed up by
practical experi-
ence.

If Landscaping
Plans Not Re-
quired Study
This Book

If you decide
that you do not
care to take ad-
vantage of our free
planting plans,

you can carefully read the follow-
ing pages of this book and thus
learn to understand and master the
important principles of landscape de-
signing. They are expressed in clear
language so that anyone can under-
stand. We do not know of any book
which has been issued up to this time
that entirely fulfills the requirements
of the American public for Landscape
Gardening. The books now available
are either too theoretical, having been
planned for the sole use of landscape
architects, or else they are too incom-
plete and do not cover the subject in
a thorough and practical way. Study
this book carefully — Secrets of Orna-
mental Planting will teach you how to
appreciate and understand landscape
planting and the characters of the
different trees, shrubs and flowers.
We have realized for years that there
has been a big demand for just such
a book as this one and now we are
offering it to the American people with
the hope that it will mark the begin-
ning of a new era of civic and home
improvement.

Stark Bro's— 100 Years Experience

Behind this Landscape Department
stands the largest nursery in the world
and the oldest in America. This year
marks the one hundredth anniversary
of the founding of this institution.
The growth of this great nursery has
been a steady, healthy one. Stark
Bro's have a reputation which is
nation-wide — and even beyond the
seas. For a hundred years, Louisiana,

A Missouri Home Before Planting Shrubs

This is the same house that is shown on the right. Note how
tall and bleak this house looks before planting.

w

Here at Louisiana, Mo., We Have Ideal Soi I and Climate for Producing Ornamentals. Note The Main Line of C. &"A.'R. R.

Mo., has been the fountain head of higher
quality plants and trees. Since the found-
ing of the nursery in 1816 by Judge James
Stark, there have been four generations
of Starks in this institution. This, the
fourth generation, still cherishes the
ideals of the early founders. They re-
gard the work not merely as a business
— not only as an industry — but as a pub-
lic service. Thus Stark Bro's new method
of giving free landscaping service is in
harmony with the one-hundred-year-old
policy of Stark Service to every Stark
customer. So it has been that ever
since 1816 the name of Stark has stood
for all that grew best in Nature for
the enjoyment of mankind.

Co-operation With Customer —
Our Policy

Stark Bro's Landscape Department
co-operates with the client — we want
to know your ideas and wishes about
the treatment of your home grounds so
we can follow and adapt your sugges-
tions to the design as far as possible.
If you have a preference as to any
particular kind of tree, shrub or rose,
we will consider this in drawing the
plans. In other words, your ideas and
desires will be incorporated in definite
plans, which will be in accordance with
the best, accepted principles of land-
scape gardening. If some of your sug-
gestions are not adapted to this par-
ticular problem, we will write and
explain the reason to you. Briefly, our
aim is to design a planting that will re-
sult in the greatest amount of pleasure
and satisfaction to our customer.

A Three Months' Change — Planting by Stark Bro's

Compare with picture on the left — a good illustration of "before and after"
effect of one of Stark Bro's Free Plans. Note hedge and shrubs.

Quality the Prime Essential

We believe with you that quality is
the prime essential in nursery products.
Things must grow and bear bloom, or
else money and priceless time are
wasted. The men whom we have
gathered about us in these many years
have the know-how of growing and
training each individual shrub or tree.
No tree or plant is any better than its
roots — Stark Bro's plants have strong,
thrifty root systems.

How To Obtain Free Land-
scaping Service

All that our Landscape Department
requires to make a landscape planting
plan of your grounds is a simple, rough
outline sketch showing the shape and
dimensions of the lot, location of
the house, walks, driveways and other
permanent buildings. To show
you how simple a plan is re-
quired, we are reproducing on
page 3 a sketch that one of
our customers sent us. We also
show the finished product — the
planting plan that our land-
scape architects designed from
the information shown on this
rough sketch. Remember we
made no charge whatever for
drawing this plan and the cost
of the shrubs and trees was
moderate. It is a very simple
matter to draw the sketch.
Anyone can make this drawing
in five minutes. Use Stark Bro's land-
scape sketch blank, because the ruled
lines will make it easier and more simple
for you to draw the
sketch. You can
step off the dimen-
sions of your lot,
etc., allowing about
three feet for each
step. If you can
send photographs
of your lot and
house, they will be
of assistance to our
landscape archi-
tects, although
photographs are not
absolutely neces-
sary. Be sure to in-
dicate on your
sketch which direc-
tion is North. Also
give any informa-
tion about adjoin-
ing property that
you think would
affect the design of
your grounds.

Indicate the Amount You
Desire to Spend Now

It is necessary also for us to know in
a rough way if you are limited as to the
amount you can spend this season.
Possibly you want to do part of the
planting this year and finish it next
season. Sometimes the cost of the
planting can be greatly reduced by
making the shrub clumps smaller and
using smallerlsized stock, although the
landscape effect will not be as quick
nor as satisfactory as where larger
sized stock is used. You will realize
that it is important that we know how
much you feel that you can spend, and
whether you want to do all the work
at this time or let it extend over a two
or three years period.

field of Stark Bro's Spirea — preferred by careful
planters who consider quality.

Small Amount of Planting Some-
times Desirable

Please bear this point in mind. Our
landscape architects in planning your
grounds will use just the amount of
stock and kind of stock that will
produce the best landscape effect. We
will not use a lot of unnecessary plant-
ing. Where we see that a very small
amount of planting will be more effec-
tive than an extensive planting, you
may be sure that we will consider our
customer's interest first and above all.
Our landscape architects are thor-
oughly trained men with the advantage
of much practical experience. If we
think that your home already has
sufficient planting, we will tell you so.

Money and Time Wasted Unless
Definite Plan Followed

A definite planting plan (either
mental or on paper) is necessary for the
best and most economical results.
Don't waste your time, money and
patience by "hit and miss" planting.
An indiscriminate scattering of trees
and shrubs will never be satisfactory.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

Landscaping Simplified

There are two great divisions of landscape gardening.

First, there is the so-called formal school, which is also termed geometrical or artificial. This
method was largely used in the formal gardens of the old world; however, it is not suited to American
homes and American conditions of climate. The only place in this book where we will consider the
formal type is under the subject of rose and flower gardens. For full explanation of this subject, see
page 13, under "Gardens."

Naturalistic or Informal Landscaping

The second great division of landscape gardening and the one which we will consider in this book
is known as the informal or naturalistic school. Naturalistic is probably the best name for this type
of landscaping, because the name is self-explanatory. It is exactly what the name indicates — a planting
that follows and imitates Nature. This is the one great principle to bear in mind — make your land-
scape planting resemble the work of Nature. The naturalistic planting gives a feeling of freedom and
restfulness. Everyone knows that there is a certain enjoyment and relaxation in getting out among
natural growing things. That is why all of us are drawn to the woods and parks — it is a pleasant and
restful change after the strain of office, factory or housekeeping.

Naturalistic Planting Characterized by Irregular,
Graceful Curves

Plantings of the naturalistic type, as they resemble
Nature, must be irregular and uneven — no straight, hard
geometrical lines. The shrub groups and borders are laid
out in long, undulating, irregular curves that give a grace-
ful and natural effect to the planting. Let us repeat
again — the essence of naturalistic planting is Nature itself.

Landscaping the Typical American Home

In America the typical home is of moderate or small
size. The large country estate or the big suburban property
of the wealthy class is the exception rather than the rule.
What we have to say in the following pages will appeal
especially to the owner of the more moderate sized home,
and this book will therefore appeal to the vast major-it i/ of
Americans. However, the general principles and suggest-
ions that we will explain will be applicable also to the
larger and more extensive properties. Our aim is to ex-
plain in clear, concise and easy-to-understand language the
general principles and practices of landscaping so that
anyone can read this book and have a good understanding A Country Schoolhouse with Vines and Shrubs

of the subject and thus prevent COStly and unfortunate When the children are young is the time to interest them

mistakes in laying out landscape plantings.

Lack of Landscape Experience Cause of Most Mistakes

Very few persons have had the opportunity or time
to devote to the study of landscape gardening, nevertheless
they have had a desire to properly plant their lawns. As
a result, they have planted a few shrubs and trees here
and there scattered over the lawn without any definite
plan or consideration of the effect on the property when
taken as a whole. They have had the natural desire to
see something grow and as a result their lawn becomes a
sort of patchwork. The man who builds a house considers
it a proposition to be taken as a whole. It is not a series
of additions, such as building one room at a time. The
same principle holds true in landscape planting — it is
necessary that a general scheme or plan should be followed
— no matter whether this plan is on paper or in one's head.

Home Grounds Divided Into Three Parts

Every property is divided into three main divisions or
parts.

First, we have the semi-public portion of the home
grounds. This includes the front lawn, entrance and all
that portion of the grounds which can be viewed from the
street or road, or by neighbors.

Second, we have the private portion of the place.
This portion of the grounds is shut off from the public view
A Moderate-sized American Home Made Cozy by Shrubs an(j should be considered as a sort of an out-of-doors living

^^^a^ald^teo^^^^ TreeS room Here is where the family can have privacy and
liarberry hedge would improve it. solitude. Here is where the rose garden should be laid out.

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

Third, the service portion of the property
which includes that part of the grounds
that has the drying yards, service walk,
vegetable and fruit garden. This division
of the grounds is separated or screened off

The Gaudy Style— A Cluttered Foreground

lioth the picture above and the one to the right

were taken from the same front porch. Note

the difference. The above "iew is spoiled

by the scattered plants on the lawn.

both from the public and private portions
by lattices covered with vines or by shrub
border plantings.

The Semi-Public Portion

This is the part of the grounds which is
most frequently seen. It consists of what is
commonly known as the front lawn and it
should present the best possible appearance.
The entrances, drives and walks should be
arranged so that they will be most conyen-
iont. The shrub groups and tree plantings
should be so placed as to give the house
the most effective setting.

Principles of Landscape
Gardening

In every landscape planting the principle
of unity is all important. To attain unity
all that is necessary is to have the entire
place treated in such a way that it will
present a harmonious whole. In other words,
the aim should be to make the home grounds
like a picture. There should be one central
idea or feature. In the home grounds, this
central idea is the house, which is the domi-
nant point of the entire planting. We must
guard against breaking up the grounds into
many individual parts. Every good picture
has the one central idea with many sub-
ordinate or secondary features. It is often
true that the simplest home planting is the
most attractive.

How to Attain Unity or
Picture Effect

To gain pur picture effect, the first thing
to consider is a large, open front lawn. Never
plant shrubs and trees scattered over the
yard. This breaks up the lawn into many
parts and makes it appear much smaller
than it really is. We should aim to increase
its apparent size. Furthermore, shrubs and
trees should never be planted in straight
rows on the lawn, or any other part of the
property. Of course there is an exception

when we plant street trees along the high-
way. It is especially important that the
lawn on small properties should be kept
open, because in these cases, there is a very
limited amount of space available and it
should be made to appear as large as possible.
And besides, the grass grows much better
on the lawn when it is open to the sun. A
green lawn is one of the most important
parts of an effective landscape treatment.
The view from the front of the home
should not be obstructed. If we were to
plant shrubs and trees scattered over the
lawn, it would entirely ruin ,the outlook.
Instead, we must select the best views and
then frame them with a planting of trees
and shrubs.

The Stark Way of Landscaping

We design open lawns with borders of shrubs

View framed by graceful trees. This

illustrates Unity in Landscaping.

Planting About the House

We have already spoken of the planting
about the house. Shade trees on either side
of the house are useful for the protection they
give from the bright sun in Summer and the
cold, bleak winds in Winter. However, an
even more important reason for planting

trees relatively near the house is to frame in
the home and to give a cozy, protected
effect. Shrubs and trees both, when planted
around the house, make it blend in closer with
the surrounding landscape. The house seems
to appear as if it belonged there and was a
part of the entire natural surrounding. On
the other hand think of a house standing
on a bare lot with no planting to soften the
hard architectural lines. This results in
the house appearing artificial and out of
place. In summer it is hot and uninviting;
in winter it appears cold, bleak and unpro-
tected.

Avoid Patchwork of Color

Another factor that must be considered in
making the home grounds an effective pic-
ture is the general color scheme, which should
be of a quiet tone. We may have contrast
of different colors, such as dark, light and
medium, but we must avoid a spotted or
patchwork appearance. Use enough plants
of one color in a group to prevent this spotted
appearance. By blending the groups of the
different colors together, we will get
harmonious effects. As we have said before,
the major portion of color should be quiet,
such as the beautiful green and white of
Spirea Van Houttei. Again, if you will
refer to the landscape work of Nature, you
will find that she grows shrubs in groups
with the many colors blended together.
There is no regularity in the way she lays
out her plantings.

Avoid Monotony

Do not make the planting too dull or with
too much of a sameness. We must have some
variety in color, shape and arrangement of
the plants. There must be a few accents,
such as an upright shrub or tree or a bright
flowering plant. The walks must be laid
out in long, irregular, graceful curves. If
possible, views in different parts of the
grounds should be framed in so as to lend
interest to the planting.

Other Principles of Landscape
Gardening

Aside from the principle of unity (treat-
ment as a whole), there are other important
principles that must be considered in laying
out the home grounds.

It is very often true that the simplest
planting is the most effective. Although we
must have sufficient planting to frame in the
home, to create the effect of larger grounds
and to give variety to the planting, still we
do not want to overdo it. We must realize
when it is time to stop planting. Don't
clutter up the entire property with plants
— leave plenty of wide open stretches of
lawn and confine the shrub planting largely
to the borders of the property and around
the house.

Variety in Landscaping

A home planted with shrubs which has
very similar characteristics would soon
become dull and monotonous. In landscape
planting, as well as other phases of life,

Thecharmof this beautiful home liesinthegreatopenlawn, framing trees and surrounding foundation
planting of flowering shrubs. The planting increases the cash value of this place £5 to 60%.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

,I,IHI m iinmii i imi iiiiini i iiinnii iiiiiiiin i inn inn in iiiiinii inn iiiiiiniiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiini iiiiiiiiini iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinii iiiiiiiniiiiii inn inn iiiiiin MINI i i iiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiil iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiini iniiiiiuiii

there must be variety. We must have variety
in color, shape and size. By means of a
bright color or a tree or shrub with unusual
shape, we can incorporate accents in the
general planting. These accents will make
the entire planting more interesting to all who
view it. For instance, one or two Lombardy
Poplars with their very slender, upright
growth would give a pleasing contrast to a
planting of lower, round-headed trees. The
graceful, drooping branches of the Weeping
Willow, if not used top much, will make the
planting more interesting; the golden colored
foliage of Golden Elder (Sambucus Aurea)
or the Golden Syringa (Philadelphus Aureus)
gives a very striking contrast to the planting.
However, these must be used very carefully
indeed or else the contrast will be too striking.
The beautiful white bark of European Birch
is a character -which should be considered in
striving for variety. This also applies to the
bark of European Sycamore, one of the finest
and most satisfactory of all shade and street
trees for American conditions.

Symmetry or Balance

Although it is not necessary to have one
side of the planting exactly balance the
opposite side, still it is advisable to have the
general effect of color and mass on both sides
of equal value. The question of symmetry
or balance is of most importance when laying
out the garden. This we consider more in
detail when we take up the subject of "Gar-
dens" on page 13.

Interest Maintained by Making
the Planting Intricate

Landscape treatment of property may be
very carefully and perfectly laid out, but if
there are not enough interesting effects and
views it may soon prove dull and mono-
tonous. As we walk about the grounds we
want to see new views, unexpected bays in
the shrubbery — something to keep our
interest continually aroused a.nd active. In
other words, we want to have a feeling that,
as we walk about the grounds there is some-
thing to explore — some hidden beauties a
|ittle further on. In Nature's plantings our
interest is kept aroused by a feeling that we
are exploring; this is the same principle that
we must keep in mind in landscaping the
grounds by the naturalistic method.

Convenience and Compactness

These two principles go hand-in-hand.
The different parts of the home grounds
should be so arranged that they will be
easily accessible and convenient in going
from one part to another. These same
principles must be considered by the archi-
tect when planning the house. It must be
convenient to go from one room to another
without taking extra steps. The flower
u3rden must be conveniently and closely

located to that portion of the house which is
most largely used, for the garden is essen-
tially an out-of-doors living room. By
locating the walks in the correct place, it
will prevent the wearing of paths on the
lawn. It is natural for anyone to go on
the most direct line from one point to another.
For further details as to laying out walks,
see page 14. On small places it is partic-
ularly important to have different parts of
the grounds planned so they will be most
compact and convenient, thus getting the
greatest possible use out of a limited area.

Privacy and Seclusion

Privacy is a necessary and sacred part of
family life. The private portion of the
grounds is the part which is probably the
most appreciated and prized by the owner,
the rose and flower garden, where the owner
feels he can relax in the bosom of his family.
Here he can walk and roam among his flowers,
confident that he is not observed by the
outside world. Only the one who has exper-
ienced the privilege and precious enjoyment
of a private garden can appreciate what this
means to the tired
business - man or
housewife.

A Good Land-
scape Design.

In making a suc-
cessful and correct
landscape planting
all of the principles
that we have ex-
plained above
enter into the final
and complete plan.
In other words, it
is a combination of
all the principles
and elements of
landscape garden-
ing. ' The final re-
sult of the planting
is a beautiful and
consistent whole —
an interesting and
attractive picture.
Someone may ask
how all of the prin-
ciples can be com-
bined, also if some
of the principles
are not directly
opposed. Nature
furnishes the an-
swer. In Nature,
we may have unity
or treatment as a whole and also have variety
and interest. Nature's plantings demonstrate
the principle of simplicity. They also show
that intricacy is a part of each planting of
Nature. So it can be seen that this

combination of all the principles of landscape
gardening is pleasing and satisfactory.

A Few Don'ts for Home Planters

Don't clutter up your front lawn with a lot
of scattered shrubs and trees. Remember
that the big, open lawn is just as important

Perennials in a Formal Garden

Give flowers and beauty from April to November.
Plenty of variety to be found in such a garden.

A characteristic
planting for a large
estate or a park —

graceful curving
drives and natural-
istic shrub clumps.

as any part of the
planting. Leave
plenty of views and
make them more
beautiful by fram-
ing them with
plantings of shrubs
and trees.

Don't plant trees
too close to the
house. They should
be close enough to
frame in the house
and help to pro-
tect it in Winter
and shade it in
Summer. But re-
member that the
house inside will
require light and

An Avenue of Picturesque Lombardy Poplars.

A hardy quick growing tree. A universal favorite for avenue planting or for general landscaping
both in Europe and America. Gives accent and variety to the skyline.

you do not want it too damp.

Don't overdo the planting. Home grounds
that are made too elaborate will not be
satisfactory.

Don't put flower beds on the front lawn-
Very often we see a round or fancy shaped
flower bed stuck out in the middle of a large,
attractive lawn. This breaks up the expanse
of the lawn and detracts from the picture
effect at which we are striving. The house
should be the center of our picture, but with
flower beds breaking up the front lawn, it
turns the attention from the central idea
and besides, these formal, or regular shaped
beds are not in harmony with the naturalistic
style of landscaping. Flowers and roses are
an important factor in Landscape Gardening,
but they should be in the garden and not
on the front lawn. When they are used on
the lawn, they are unattractive when not
in bloom and in the Winter these bare flower
beds become very ugly.

Don't put unsuitable ornaments, such as
iron vases, iron animals and artificial metal
figures on the lawn. These are not in harmony
with the naturalistic style. The only place
that ornaments of this kind are in good
taste on the home grounds is in the private
portion or garden, where the treatment is
more or less of the formal type. We explain
this subject in detail under the heading of
"Gardens."

Don't break up the lawn with too many
drives and walks. Of course convenience
requires that there be a certain number of
walks and drives, but these should be held
to the minimum. This is especially true on
small grounds. Remember that wherever
anything breaks up the wide expanse of the
lawn it makes the place seem smaller. Some-
times the walks or drives are slightly sunken
so they do not show up to such an extent.

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

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Don't make the planting too monotonous
and bare. Often we see shrubs planted
about a house in a sort of hedge form and
as?ain great rows of shrubs along the borders
of the property. This is not the way that
Nature would do the planting, therefore,
it is not in keeping with the naturalistic
style. The shrubs should be planted around
the house in irregular, uneven groups, and
the borders should be laid out in graceful
curves with bays and framed-in views. The
entrance to the grounds can be very effectively
masked so that the visitor when entering
the grounds will not see the entire place laid
out before him, but instead will be led from
point to point with an ever-changing view.
However, the mistake should not be made of
shutting in the place too densely. Remember
that the front lawn and front view of the
house should be semi-public. You do not
want the place surrounded and hidden from
view by a planting that would be essentially
a prison wall.

In summing up the whole proposition, we
might say that the aim in landscape garden-
ing is to make the home attractive and pleas-
ant, and all of the planting should be sub-
servient to that one idea.

Special Features of the
Home Grounds

(In this we take up the matter of the treatment
of entrances and approaches to the house.)

Walks and Driveways

The entrance walk and driveways should
be at right-angles to the road. Do not let
them connect with the road at an oblique
angle. If it is necessary to make a turn in
the driveway or walk, this should be in long
sweeping and graceful curves and the ap-
proach to the house should be direct and
most convenient. A curved walk or driveway
is much prettier and more effective than a
straight hard line. However, we must not
have useless curves and the general direction
of the driveway or walks must always be
towards the house.

It would appear ridiculous and artificial
to curve a walk or driveway where a straight
line would be the most direct way. How-
ever, in order to afford an excuse for curving
the driveway, a clump of shrubs can be
placed so that the driveway will appear
to curve around the clump. We have already ex-
plained that there should be just as few walks and
driveways as possible — only the ones that are abso-
lutely necessary — but it is better to have a walk
than to have a path worn on the lawn. If you find
it difficult to stop the use of a path across any part
of your property, you will find that a clump of

shrubbery placed across the path will be one
of the most effective ways to stop it.

Entrances

If the entrance gate is used, it should be
of the same material and character as the
house. If the house is of red brick, the
entrance should be treated with the same
material. If the house is of stone, or wood,
the same principle will hold true. A training
of clinging vines over the entrance gate will
be found to be very effective.

The entrance should be located at the most
convenient point. If most of the travel is
in one direction, the entrance should be
located at the point closest to the main
direction of travel. Very often this results
in the entrance being at one corner of the
property. This gives an opportunity for a
long, curved driveway leading up to the house.
We have already explained why the entrance
should be more or less hidden from the
house. Clumps of shrubbery can be planted
on either side of the entrance, largest shrub-
bery towards the center of the clump and
the lower, spreading shrubs in front. As
the visitor enters the
masked entrance and
drives towards the
house, he continually
gets a new view of the
property. This is

much more effective
than if the whole
grounds were spread
out like a map so that
everything was visible
at one glance.

However, the view
from the home should
overlook the street or
road and likewise the
passer-by should get a
good view of the house
and its surrounding
planting.

the whole picture. In other words, the shrubs
are used to form a transition or connection
between the house and the surrounding
landscape. This shrub and tree planting
helps to blend the various parts of the pic-
ture and to make it appear in keeping with
the naturalistic surroundings.

When planting the shrub groups about the
house, be sure that the groups are planted in
irregular clumps. Do not plant them in a
straight hedge effect around the foundation
of the house. It should also be remembered
that shrubs with foliage of fine texture are
better suited for close planting around the
house than the rougher and more irregular
growing shrubs. For instance, shrubs with
foliage of fine texture like Spirea Van Houttei,
Japanese Barberry (Berberis Thunbergii),
Spirea Billardi, Snowberry (Symphoricarpus
Racemosus) and shrubs of this type are well
adapted for planting near the house. Some of
the best trees for planting near the house
to form a frame and to protect the house in
Summer and Winter are the following kinds:
American White Elm, Tulip Tree, European
Linden, Silver Maple, European Sycamore
Norway Maple.

Planting Around
the House

The planting of
shrubs and trees about
the house tends to tie
the house to its sur-
roundings and make it
seem more a part of

This Entrance Speaks for Itself

Nestled among the trees and flowering shrubs the house has a homelike
privacy. This is the way Stark Bro's experts will plan your grounds.

On every property there will probably be several
good views. The best ones should be picked out and
should be considered in laying out the planting. By
properly framing in these good views with trees
and shrubbery, you will get the effect of lending
distance to the views and also increasing the apparent
size of the property. Thus by framing in the
views, each one becomes a picture.

Photograph, Underwood & Underwood, N. Y.

The beautiful entrance to President Woodrow Wilson's summer home in New Jersey. The beautiful ivy covering the entrance posts
and the shrub planting on either side is most effective. The trees give privacy, maintaining interest in the mind of the visitor.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

The Stark Way of Framing a View

With the sturdy graceful Elm — America's great-
est shade tree.

Shutting Out Undesirable Views

Very often there are certain views or out-
buildings which are "eye-sores" when viewed
from the house. These views can be blanket-
ed out and hidden by a planting of trees. It
is often desirable to use quick growing trees
in order to attain this result as soon as possible.
Out-buildings and barns can be hidden by,
plantings of high shrubs, and unsightly boar<J
fences can be blanketed out.

Flowering of Shrubs and Trees

In selecting the shrubs for the landscape
planting of the home grounds, the flowering

gives the time of flowering and the height
to which the shrub grows.

Time of Blooming

The time of flowering is another important
consideration. In planting shrub groups in
borders, we want to plan to have shrubs
some of which will be in bloom throughout
the season, thus there will always be an
interesting bloom from early Spring until
late Fall. Starting out with the Forsythia,
with its brilliant yellow bloom in early Spring
before the leaves appear, then comes the
Red Bud or Cercis followed by the attractive
Deutzias. White Kerria (Rhodotypus Ker-
rioides) blooms early and continues to bloom
all summer. Next comes that magnificent
shrub, Spirea Van Houttei. which has been
pronounced the one best shrub. With its
white billows of flowers it presents a mag-
nificent effect. After the flowers are gone,
the foliage is of great landscape value,
being of fine texture and a rich green. Fol-
lowing Spirea Van Houttei comes the Phila-
delphus, which is commonly called the Mock
Orange or Syringa. This splendid old-time,
fragrant shrub is a beautiful sight in bloom.
Following it comes the Viburnum Opulus
commonly called the High Bush Cranberry
with its white panicles which are followed by
brilliant scarlet fruit. Tamarix Africana
also blooms at this time. Its pink blossoms
gives the entire bush a pinkish cast. Indeed
it is different in appearance from any other
shrub. A clump of Tamarix on the lawn
gives the effect of the spray from an ocean
breaker.

June has been called the month of the
roses and truly so, for in this month the
roses seem to outdo themselves. However,
in this month, many of our finest shrubs
are also in bloom.

In June Weigela rosea presents its wealth
of rose-colored flowers. There is also a white
type and a red flowering type.

The Lilacs

Probably the finest and most popular of
all the June flowering shrubs are the Lilacs.
For generations Lilacs have been dear to
the hearts of all lovers
of Nature. The old-
fashioned Lilac was
very popular with our
grandparents, but we
are more fortunate
in having numerous
new and improved
varieties, with a great
variety of color and
larger blooms. No
landscape planting is
complete without Li-
1 acs. Next in season of
bloom comes Spirea
Billardi, with its long
plumy spikes of fea-
thery pink. Some of
the shrubs which bloom

late in the Summer and hold over until
early Fall are the Hydrangea Paniculata
Grandiflora (with blooms often eight or ten
inches long and six inches in diameter) and
Hibiscus Syriacus (Old-Fashioned Rose of
Sharon). There are many colors in both
single and double flowers of the latter and
it should be planted much more largely
than it is. There are certain shrubs, such
as Hydrangea Arborescens Grandiflora,
Rosa Rugosa, White Kerria, etc., that bloom
throughout the Summer.

Bright Colored Berries

Some shrubs are of great value not only
because of their flowers, but because of their
bright colored fruit. The long brilliant red
berries of the Barberry are very interesting
in the Fall and they last through the entire
Winter. The Snowberry (Symphoricarpiix
Racemosus) has large clusters of pearl white
berries in the Fall. The High Bush Cran-
berry (Viburnum Opulus) is not only valuable
on account of its bloom, but because of tlie
clusters of brilliant red berries, which appear
in late Summer and hold over to the Fall.

Rosa Rugosa has red berries throughout
the Summer at the- same time the shrubs arc-
blooming.

Characters of Growth

As far as habit of growth is concerned,
shrubs are divided into three main classes:
FIRST, we have the high growing shrubs
wnich are used largely as a background;
SECOND, we have the medium height
shrubs, which can be planted immediately
in front of the background and higher shrubs
— these are called "fillers;" THIRD, we have
the low-growing or dwarfy shrubs, which
are used to edge down the groups of shrubs —
these are called "facers."

In addition to the height growth of the
shrubs they vary greatly in being upright,
spreading or arching in their general character
of growth. It is easily seen that by mixing
the different kinds of shrubs we can get, an
interesting and varied effect, thus breaking
the monotony. In Nature you will find
a great blending of the many different kinds
of shrubs with no regularity as to the planting.
It is this natural blending, demonstrated in
Nature's planting, that we should attempt
to reproduce.

Planting a Shrub Group

We have explained how the different char-
acteristics of shrubs, such as their manner
of growth, their time and color of bloom,
their general color value must be considered
in making up the shrub groups. It is a
combination of all these characteristics in
their proper proportion that produces the
successful shrub group. There are a number
of general principles or rules that must be
observed in planting the borders or groups.
The tall shrubs should be planted in the
background of the border or in the center of

Planned and planted by Stark Landscape Archi-
tects. A naturalistic shrub border of tall
Viburnums, Spireas, Syringas, etc.

characteristics should be carefully considered.
The color, size and time of flowering are all
important. In planting a shrub group, be
sure that the color of the different shrubs will
be harmonious. Do not plant shrubs which
have pink blossoms near those which have
red blossoms, if the two shrubs bloom at
the same time. However, if they have
different times of blooming, it will be all
tight to have them in the same group. You
should aim to have variety in color of bloom.
This variety will lend interest and attrac-
tiveness to the planting. For instance,
there are three types of Weigela: The rose-
colored, the white blossoms and the red
blossoms. The budded Lilacs give a good
opportunity for using many different colors.
By carefully studying the table given on
page 20, you can select a variety of har-
monious colors of bloom. This table also

This planting could be improved by planting some trees at the left corner of the house to pin it to
the surroundings and counteract the effect that the house is slipping down the hill.

10

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

the group. Then around and in front of the
taller shrubs we will plant the "fillers" or
shrubs of medium height. Then on the
outside or in front of the fillers we can plant
our lower, spreading shrubs, which we have
termed "facers." Bear in mind that you
should plant the background or tall shrubs
first and then work towards the front. Never
begin in the front and work towards the back.
Second, we must realize that in plant-
ing shrub groups or borders we are trying
to imitate Nature. Nature never plants
single specimens of shrubs when making up
her natural shrub groups. Instead, she plants
several of each kind in small groups and then
these small groups are massed together in
one large, harmonious group. If we should
plant one shrub of each kind in a group we
would get a spotted, unnatural effect. In
other words, we must consider the shrubs as
groups of each kind — not individual plants.
By keeping this in mind, we can get harmoni-
ously planted groups which will be interesting
and varied.

Spirea Van Houttel at the Home of President Stark

The billowy white banks of Spirea Van Houttei are the admiration of all
For planting around porches there is no better shrub.

have been standing for many centuries,
long before Columbus sailed on his voyage
of discovery.

It is becoming a general practice to plant,
our noble, native shade trees as monuments
to commemorate great events. In many
of the schools and colleges an important part
of the graduating ceremony is the planting
of the "class tree." It is indeed very appro-
priate to plant something that lives, grows
and becomes more beautiful every year.

Shade Trees About the House

Shade trees are used for many purposes
in landscaping the home grounds, but we will
first consider the planting around the home.
Trees should be planted behind in order to
form a background, and on the sides to frame
in the house, but they should never be planted
directly in front of the home, as this will
obstruct the view and detract from the
general effect of the landscape planting.
We often see the mistake of planting shade
trees in the center of the front lawn. This
• -IT •!..•• .--• - ig wrong because it

not only obstructs
the view, but it breaks
up the wide expanse
of the lawn, making it
appear much smaller
in extent. It also
prevents a satisfactory
growth of the grass
and everyone knows
that a beautiful green
lawn is one of the
most important parts
of the landscape plant-
ting. Another point
to bear in mind is the
fact that the trees
spread very much as
they become older
and for this reason
it is not advisable to
plant them too close
to the house, as it will
make the house
damp and prevent
the entran ce of
sunshine. Sunshine
in the home is a
necessity.

In selecting the shrubs for the groups, be
sure to get the kinds which will have bloom
of different colors, but a harmonious combi-
nation, and also shrubs which will bloom
early, then followed by those that will carry
the bloom throughout the season.

Irregular Outline of Groups

In laying out the outline of the shrub
border or group, the front line of the group
should be irregular and naturalistic. Make
the curves long and sweeping with bays in
the shrubbery at irregular intervals. Some-
times the mistake is made of laying out a
shrub border and making the boundary line
or front of the border in regular, zigzag
curves, all of the curves being just alike.
This is altogether wrong and is not in keeping
with the naturalistic style. Be sure that
all of the curves of the shrub groups are
irregular and laid out in graceful lines.

Evergreens in Landscaping

Evergreens are adapted for certain uses
in landscaping. They have the advantage
of holding their foliage not only in Summer
but also in Winter. On the other hand,
they do not give any beautiful bloom.
Evergreens are of rather slow growth, but
if you are willing to wait, they will make
good screens for shutting out undesirable
views, also as a windbreak. We will sum
up the matter of evergreens by saying that
they can always be used in the landscape
planting, but they should be used in limited
amounts. If too many evergreens are used
they give a cold, stiff appearance.

Shade Trees

In history and in art, shade trees occupy
an important position. Was it not under the
immense American White Elm at Cambridge,'
Massachusetts, that the father of our country
took charge of the Continental Army? In
many parts of America there are enormous
trees — true patriarchs of Nature — which

Shade Trees for Avenue, Street
and Driveway

Shade trees are planted at regular in-
tervals along avenues and streets. The distance
of planting ranges from 20 to 50 feet. Some
prefer to plant the trees rather close, say
20 to 25 feet, with the understanding that
later every other tree will be removed thus
allowing the proper development of the
remaining trees. Another plan that is
followed is to plant every other tree as
a permanent tree, using for this purpose
trees of moderate growth, but which are
long-lived, such as European Syca-
more, Norway Maple, English or
American Linden, Sugar Maple or
one of the Oaks. Some of these
trees we have just mentioned, such
as the Norway Maple, European
Sycamore, American White Elm
and English Linden
are of fairly rapid -^BHl

growth, while the
Sugar Maple and the
Oaks are of slower
growth.

In between the per-
manent trees, which
we have just men-
tioned, are planted
sonic of the very
rapid growing shade
trees. The plan is to
let the very rapid
growers furnish shade
for a few years while
the permanent trees
are getting estab-
lished and becoming
large enough to fur-
nish effective shade.
As soon as the trees
begin to crowd, the
rapid growers(or tem-
porary trees) are re-
moved. Some of the
best trees to plant

Shrubs and evergreens make this weK-pla/Hited

entrance effective at all times. Note the

long graceful sweep of the entrance

walk and the cozy appearance of

the home.

for very quick growth are the following:
Silver Maple, Box Elder Maple, Catalpa
Speciosa, American White Ash, Carolina
Poplar, Lombardy Poplar, Tulip Tree. Some
of these trees are very rapid growers and of
long life; can be used for permanent planting.
We refer particularly to Silver Maple,
American White Ash and Tulip Tree.

Street trees, as a rule, should be headed
rather high and the trunks should be pro-
tected from injury, such as the gnawing of
horses. There are many ways of protecting
tree trunks, by the use of wovenwire, board
protectors, etc. In case the bark is injured
the wound should be smoothed down and
the edges cut smooth, then painted. For full
details of treatment of wounds and the kind
of paint to use, see page 15.

The Graceful Weeping \Vi

A popular tree for lawns, parks and cemeteries. Thrives under many
conditions and is an exceedingly rapid grower. Especially
effective when planted near water.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

H inn limn i niiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiniiiniiiiiiii m iiiiiiiiiniiiiiii mil in 'iiiiiini iiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiin in

Lawn Trees

There are certain shade trees which are
not adapted for avenue planting or for fram-
ing in the house. However, these trees are
very effectively used as individual specimens
or in groups on the lawn. Trees of this
character are very necessary for the successful

Silver Maple for Quick Results

One of the most satisfactory all-purpose trees
grown — for lawn, avenue or screen planting.

execution of any landscape planting. We
have in mind trees such as the Weir's Cut-Leaf
Maple, Catalpa Bungei (Umbrella Tree),
Weeping Willow, European White Birch,
Cut-Leaf Weeping Birch, Red Bud (Cercis
Canadensis), Russian Olive, Tea's Weeping
Mulberry, Crimson Leaf Plum, Double-
Flowering Crab, Moss Locust, American
Sweet Chestnut, Black Walnut and Pecan —
the latter three trees are not only beautiful
for landscape purposes, but they bear a
nut crop of splendid quality.

Trees as Screens

Under the heading of "Shutting Out Unde-
sirable Views," we have explained the use
of quick growing trees for this pur-
pose. Instead of seeing a neighbor's
backyard or barn, we can plant quick
growing shade trees, which will quickly and
effectively hide undesirable views. Where
very quick results are desired, we advise the
planting of Silver Leaf Maple, Carolina
Poplar, Lombardy Poplar, Weeping Willow
or Catalpa Speciosa. The medium-rapid
growers, such as Linden, Tulip Tree, Euro-
pean Sycamore can also be used for this
purpose, although the results would not be
as quickly accomplished. Evergreens furn-
ish screen in Summer and -Winter* although
it will take quite a long time for; them to
grow to the desired height.

Climbers

The following vines are best adapted for
planting around the porches: Hall Japan
Honeysuckle (Lonicera Halleana), Chinese

Wistaria (Wistaria Sinensis), Japanese Clem-
atis, (Clematis Paniculata), American Ivy
(Ampelopsis Quinquefolia). In addition to
these vines, climbing roses lend themselves
admirably to training on porches. The
best climbing roses for this purpose are the
Dorothy Perkins, Climbing Baby Rambler,
Climbing American Beauty, Baltimore Belle,
Crimson Rambler and Trier.

In planting the vines and climbing roses
for your porch use several different kinds,
as they will blend well and will bloom at
different periods. We suggest the following
combination of climbers for porch planting.
Set No. 1. Dorothy Perkins rose, Japanese
Clematis (Clematis Paniculata) and American
Ivy (Ampelopsis Quinquefolia).

Set No. 2. Wistaria Sinensis, Dorothy
Perkins rose and Climbing American Beauty.

Set No. 3. American Ivy (Ampelopsis
Quinquefolia), Baltimore Belle rose and Hall
Japan Honeysuckle (Lonicera Halleana).

Climbers for the Trellis and House

On arbors, pergolas or trellises, vines and
climbing roses give a very pleasing effect.
The aim should be to practically cover the
entire trellis or arbor. Any of the combi-
nations suggested for the porch will be well
adapted for use on arbors.

Old tree trunks, or similar unsightly objects,
may be entirely covered with vines. For
this purpose, American Ivy (Ampelopsis
Quinquefolia), Wistaria, Honeysuckle or
Dorothy Perkins rose are best suited.

The best vines for covering the house are
American Ivy and Boston Ivy.

These splendid vines cling to the wall by
their own means and do not need any addi-
tional support. There is nothing more beau-
tiful than a brick, stone or concrete building
covered with these magnificent vines. They
make the house much cooler in Summer.
For centuries vines of this kind have been
used on the famous old castles of Europe.

Covering Steep Banks

Frequently we are confronted with the
problem of securing a green ground cover on
steep banks where it is impractical or im-
possible to get a stand of grass. We ^have
seen steep red-clay banks, which were con-
tinually caving in and were unsightly, made
beautiful by planting Honeysuckle and
Dorothy Perkins rose, which, in a very
short space of time entirely covered the clay
bank with a solid mat of bright green. When
the roses were in bloom it was indeed a
wonderful sight. (Full description of all the
best climbers are given on page 25.)

Hedges — Living Fences

One of the
most popu-
lar hedge
plants is
the Califor-
nia Privet.
This is a
very rapid
growing
plant which
forms a sol-
i d , even
green wall,
and is eas-
ily trimmed.

However, it is sometimes winter-killed and not
adapted for Northern sections. There are
other splendid Privets such as the Amoor
River (Northern type), which is hardy and
has a beautiful, fine foliage. This splendid
hedge should be more largely planted as it is
a rapid, hardy grower and satisfactory in
every respect. The Ibota is perhaps the
hardiest of all the Privets. It is very upright
and has long, pointed, glossy leaves. The
common privet (Vulgaris) is also popular.

Barberry — The Best and Hardiest

The Japanese Barberry as a hedge has more
good qualities to commend it and fewer faults
than any we know. It is of spreading growth
and reaches only medium height. Its foliage
is a beautiful light green, and it has a small
yellow flower. The small thorns serve as a
protection from intrusion. Oblong berries
of a bright red color hang on during the winter.
This is one of its most valuable characteristics,
as very few hedges have any great beauty
during the winter months. In addition to
its other good points, Japanese Barberry is
of iron-clad hardiness.

Naturalistic Hedges

Other plants which make good hedges are
the Spirea Van Houttei, Philadelphus Coron-
arius, Lilacs, Japanese Rose (Rosa Rugosa),
Weigela and Snowberry. Hedges of any of
the plants just mentioned need not be
trimmed after the first year or two, but if
left to grow naturally will be very satisfactory.
Spirea Van Houttei is one of the best shrubs
for making a naturalistic hedge. After two
or three years its branches begin to droop
over in graceful curves clear to the ground
(Illustrated on page 25). The foliage is of a
splendid green, and when it is in bloom in the
Spring it appears as a "snowbank of flowers."

The Japanese Rose (Rosa Rugosa) and the
Rugosa Hybrids such as Conrad F. Meyer
make an excellent hedge, as they are excep-
tionally vigorous growers with splendid
foliage. The thorns act as a protection, and
the attractive pink and white blossoms are
followed by large, orange-red seed pods which
have a good landscape value in the Fall
after the blossoms are gone.

However, where a low flowering hedge is
desired, the Baby Rambler type (Dwarf
Polyantha) makes excellent hedges. These
roses are not only hardy, but they are excep-
tionally free blooming — they are laden with
masses of flowers from Spring until late Fall.
Some of the best varieties for this purpose
are the Clothilde Soupert (Flesh Colored)
Baby Rambler (Red), Jessie (Pink), etc.

••^•MMMHHMMMMMIMMMHMMMMMBi^iHHHHHII^H^HH^^IH

A Garden Retreat — Simplicity

Honeysuckle and Rose Hedge

One type of hedge of great beauty and also one
which gives excellent protection from intrusion, is
the following: a strong woven wire fence of med-
ium height is placed where the hedge is desired; at
intervals of three or four feet are planted (alter-
nately) Hall Japan Honeysuckle and Dorothy Perkins
rose, which will quickly make a solid, impenetrable
hedge. Other combinations for this same purpose
are the Hall Japan Honeysuckle, and Trier rose.
Another combination is American Ivy (Ampelopsis
Quinquefolia), Dorothy Perkins rose and Hall Japan
Honeysuckle; and there are a number of other
combinations that will give equally as_ good results.

A Charming Veranda View

A simple informal planting of shrubs adds brightness and cheer to the home. Attractive both
to the owner who gazes from his porch and to the stranger who passes by.

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

nniiiiiiiiinniiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^

Establishing the Lawn

The lawn is one of the most important parts
of any successfully planted property and it
should be maintained in proper condition.
Before sowing any grass seed make sure that
the ground is properly drained (sometimes it
is necessary to put in tiled drainage although
surface drainage is generally sufficient). The
soil should be first plowed (or spaded). On a
lar^e percentage of lawns lime should be
added. After you have spaded or plowed the
soil, scatter lime over the surface of the

convenient location of the garden in reference
to the house is very important. We have
already explained the necessity for using
shrub plantings to screen off the garden from
the public portion of the grounds. For the
same reason the planting between the garden
and the entrance driveway should be so
planned that visitors can not see the garden.

The Garden

In the garden the design of the beds and
other features of the formal work is of equal
importance as compared with the horticul-

Let Stark Bro's plant your home grounds like this and develop them so you will reap the fullest
enjoyment. Our Experts choose plants adapted to your soil and climate. Stark
ornamentals are planted successfully from coast to coast.

ground. The best kind of lime to use is
either the ordinary ground limestone (Cal-
cium Carbonate) or air-slaked lime — these
are the easiest and most agreeable forms to
handle. The lime should be scattered over
the ground so the general appearance of the
ground will be white. A safe rule to follow
would be to use about one-half ton on a
square area with 100 ft. sides. It is a good
plan to roll and »ake the surface so as to get
it even and smooth. Seed can be sown either
in the early Fall or Spring. Very often it is
recommended to sow the grass seed in the late
winter or early Spring when the last snow is
on the ground.

For a square area with 100 ft. sides sow
about a bushel. The sowing of the grass seed
should be done on a quiet day so it can be dis-
tributed evenly. You can sow the seed by
hand, then lightly rake the seed. Protect the
young seed from any trespassers. The best
permanent lawn is grown from Kentucky Blue
Grass, but it does not become established
quickly. For quick results a- mixture of the
following will be satisfactory: Kentucky
Blue Grass, Red Top and English Rye in the
proportions of 4-2-1. For shady locations
the following combination would give satis-
factory results: Kentucky Blue Grass,
Wood Meadow Grass, Various-leaved Fescue
and Crested Dog's-tail used at the rate of
2-2-1-1 in order above named.

Manure should be applied in the Fall or
very early Spring. However, manure has the
disadvantage of carrying more or less weed
seed which may become established in the
lawn, but you can keep weeds cut out.

The Private Grounds

No matter whether we call the private
grounds by the name of garden, out-of-doors
living room or backyard, it should be made
attractive and liveable — a place where all the
family will be glad to linger after the day's
work is done. The private grounds may
consist of simply a lawn enclosed by shrub-
bery borders and possibly a perennial planting
in front of the larger shrubs. However, in
most cases the private portion of the grounds
consists largely of the flower and rose garden.
The garden should be closely connected with
the house, as it is just a second living room,
which is used in the Spring and Summer
even more largely than the living room
indoors. Therefore, it will be seen that a

tural or plant material features of the garden.
In laying out the formal garden it is well to
bear in mind that as near as possible the
garden should be on an even level or a
regular, even slope. If the ground is too
steep to secure this result a series of terraces
can be used. In the formal garden we must
keep away from the irregular, naturalistic
lines. In other words, the design of the
garden is regular and architectural in spirit.
The garden is generally laid out so that the
entire plan can be seen at a glance. The
design of the garden is more a matter of
regular shaped beds and walks instead of an
irregular, naturalistic planting. The walks
and beds of the garden are made up of a series
of straight lines or arcs of circles. There
are no irregular winding paths. In the
formal garden the plant materials are used
to emphasize the architectural and formal
lines in addition to the horticultural beauty
of the plant itself. The garden should be
located so that the central walk or axis will
be on a direct line with the main view from
the house. Very often a doorway leading
out from the

living room of

the house will

form the chief

viewpoint and

the main walk

or axis of the

garden should

be on a direct

line with the

doorway. The

axis of the gar-
den has been

called the

"backbone" of

the design. On

this main axis

a garden should

be balanced—

each side the

same size and

value as the

opposite side.

Study the plan

of the garden

on page 3.

Note how the

main axis is

centered on the

entrance from

the house.

The Garden of Flowers

When we speak of the garden, we have in
mind the flower or pleasure garden. There
is, of course, a second meaning to the use of
the term "garden," namely, the service or
vegetable garden. For full explanation of
Service and Vegetable Garden see page 14.
In this chapter we will confine ourselves
entirely to treatment of the pleasure or flower
garden.

Formal in Treatment

Although we have stated in previous pages
that the planting which is most adaptable
to American homes and the American climate
is the Naturalistic style, nevertheless the
Formal style enters in to the planning of the
flower garden to a certain degree.

The design of arrangement of the beds is
formal in outline — this is due largely to the
fact that if the beds are laid out in even,
regular shapes they can be much more easily
cared for and will give more satisfactory
results. Also, the garden should be formal,
because it is, in a sense, a transition between
the formal lines of architecture in the house
and the surrounding naturalistic planting.
The formal garden is a sort of a half-way
point between the architectural house and
the irregular, naturalistic planting of the
surrounding property.

Garden Objects

The formal garden is also characterized
by garden objects or architectural features,
such as seats, summer or garden houses, per-
golas, sundials, statuary, etc., also water mir-
rors, which are nothing but regular shaped
pools of water which are used with good effect
in the formal garden — they can be planted
with water lillies or kept clear of plants and
thus used as a natural reflecting mirror.

In planting the garden you should decide
on what your exact requirements are. You
should know to what use you are going to put
the garden — when you expect to enjoy and use
it the most. If you are going to be away
from home during a certain portion of the
year, you want to use flowers and roses which
will bloom before you plan to leave and also
to include plants which will be in their glory
when you return to your home.

Different Types of Gardens

There are several types of gardens, in so
far as the character of plants to be used is
concerned. »

First, we have the flower 'garden, which
is made up solely of annual and perennial
plants. These plants either die down to the
ground or are entirely killed out by the
Winter. . . ;„„ .

Second, is the rose garden, in which many
different types of roses are1 .used. For
full details of Roses see The Rose Garden,
page 26.

Combination Garden

However, both the flower and rose garden
have their good points and probably the
logical garden for most home grounds is a
"Combination Flower and Rose Garden."

[13]

Right in the Heart of the City

Your back yard can be trans-
formed into a garden spot
like this.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

The Walks of the Garden

The garden walks should preferably
be of grass. The green turf is more in
harmony with the growing plants of the
garden. Grass walks are easy to keep in
condition; by proper care, the edges of the
beds can be maintained in a smooth, regular
manner. The grass walk is in itself a thing
of beauty.

Gravel walks are sometimes used in the
garden, but they are not beautiful and it is
rather difficult to keep the gravel separated
in distinct lines from the flower beds. This
is accomplished sometimes by maintaining
a narrow strip of turf between the gravel
walk and the bed, or a small edging of dwarf
plants can be used.

It is important that the garden walks
should be of sufficient width to accommodate
several persons walking abreast. To see
the walks of a garden narrow and cramped
detracts greatly from the general effect of
the design. Of course the main walk or
axis of the garden should be considerably
wider than the cross-walks, although it will
depend to a large extent on the size of the
garden, but it is a safe rule to say that the
main walk should never be narrower than
five or six feet, and in many cases, it should
run up as high as 10 or 12 feet in width.

Annual Plants

In the formal garden annual plants are
very often used (when we refer to annual
plants, we mean those kinds which die out
every Winter, and which must be purchased
and set out each season). This results in
annual expenditure which may run into quite
a sum. On the other hand, if hardy peren-
nials and roses are planted, they are perma-
nent. After they have been carefully planted
out and have become established, they do

Snowberry

(Symphoricarpus

racemosus.)

not require additional expense for replacing
as is the case with annual plants. We
advise very strongly the increased use of
roses and hardy perennials.

A Perennial Border

The border of old-fashioned perennials
(plants which die to the ground each winter,
but come up every year) is very popular these
days — and deservedly so. Perennials grow-
very freely and because they are perma-
nent, they are economical as one doesn't
have to buy new plants every year.
After once setting them out they become
stronger and finer with each year's
growth. The perennial border does
not have to be planted in regular
shaped beds. It can be planted
irregularly in front of the shrub groups
or borders and the green foliage of the
shrubs will form a splendid background
or the beautiful colored blooms of the
perennials. Of course perennials are

Elanted with very good effect in the
eds of the formal garden, but the true
perennial border is generally planted
in front of the shrubs, as we have just
explained. In the formal garden,
which is surrounded by a planting of
shrubbery, it is a good plan to plant a

Eerennial border in front of the shrub-
ery in addition to using some perennials
in the beds of the garden. Some of the
splendid perennials that have been popular
in our grandmother's day and are still used
with splendid effect are the following: Phlox,
Iris, Chrysanthemum, Columbine, Anemone,
etc. See description on page 19.

However, the most popular and the finest
of all perennial plants is the paeony. For
generations this splendid plant has main-
tained a deserved popularity equalled by
no other perennial flower. It blooms in
early Spring when its enormous brilliant
colored blooms attract an unusual amount
of interest and attention, especially so because
it is in its glory just about Memorial Day.
The paeony thrives in nearly every part of
the United States, becomes established easily
and is the source of an annual supply of
beautiful bloom. In our grandmothers'
day, the list of paeonies was very limited,
but now with the many marvelous new va-
rieties, we have practically every desirable
color and the season of bloom is extended
over a long period. We cannot
too strongly recommend a plant-
ing of paeonies that will succeed
with practically no care or at-
tention, although they respond
quickly to good treatment.
See descriptions on page 24.

The Shape of Flower Beds

pie shapes, such as squares, long rectan-
gular shapes, with possibly a few circular beds
are to be desired. The beds should not be too
wide on account of convenience in picking
the flowers. A safe rule to follow is this:
Do not make the beds any wider than a
distance that can be half reached across from
either side. By picking the flowers from both
sides of the bed you can thus conveniently
reach all of the blooms.

Eugene Furst

A rich red rose of surpass-
ing beauty.

Paul Neyron

Largest of all roses. Near-
ly thornless.

Keeping the Beds Regular

It will be found difficult sometimes to
maintain the edge of the beds where it comes
next to the sod in a straight, even line. By
use of a sharp spade and cutting the edge of
the turf after stretching a string for guiding,
an even, regular outline of the- bed can be
maintained. In some gardens, especially
where gravel walks are used, an edging of
some small dwarfish growing plants is used
to mark the edge of the beds. In the Mis-
souri Botanical Gardens of St. Louis there is a
very effective use of Japanese Barberry as
an edging in one of the small formal gardens.
It is necessary to keep the Barberry trimmed
very close so it will not get very large, but
it makes a very compact and neat edging.

In an edging where it is not desired to use
an edging plant or to keep the edge of the
beds cut in smooth, straight lines, a good
permanent method of marking the edge of
the beds is to form an edging of bricks, which
are set in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees
They should be set far enough in the ground
so that they do not come above the turf edge
more than two or three inches.

Service Grounds

We have already taken up an explanation
of three divisions of the home grounds.

First, the semi-public part; second, the
private part of the grounds, and third, the
service portion.

The service grounds shou|d be entirely
separated from the semi-public and the pri-
vate grounds. Although it will vary with
each property, the service portion may con-
sist of the drying yard, service walk (leading
from the house to garage or stable), also the
walk leading from house to the vegetable or
fruit garden. By using screens of high
shrubbery and even trees, the service section
can be entirely shut out from view.

In considering the shape of the
flower beds, it should be remem-
bered that they form a part of the formal
garden and therefore they should consist
of regular shapes. Avoid all elaborate
and fancy shaped beds. These unusual
and elaborately shaped beds are undesir-
able because they are very inconvenient
and difficult to maintain. They are not
beautiful nor are they in harmony with
the formal garden.

In laying out the beds remember that
simplicity is always to be preferred. Sim-

Service Garden

In the service garden we have a vegetable
and fruit section, also roses and flower plants can be
planted in the service garden to furnish an abundance
of cut flowers for the home.

Where the space of the service garden is limited,
the use of dwarf fruit trees is advisable. Stark Bro's
grow a complete list of the dwarf fruit trees for the
special purpose of providing smaller trees for the fruit
garden. Dwarf apples can be planted as close as 12
or 14 feet apart. Dwarf pears the same. We grow
a complete list of varieties especially adapted for the
home fruit garden. By planting the dwarf trees they
will bear younger and you can plant many more of
the trees on a limited space than if the regular or stan-
dard trees were used. See complete list on page 25.

Care of Plants on Arrival

When your trees and shrubs arrive, you should.
plant them at once if possible;- however, if they come
during frosty weather, place them unopened in a cool,
dry cellar, free from frost. When the weather moder-
ates, unpack, and shake out the packing of moss and
fibre before planting. Do not expose the roots to
sun, air, wind or frost.

Just a Glimpse '

e fields Stark Bro's devote exclusively to

ornamental stock— every plant a
pecimen grown by experts.

[14]

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

Practical Suggestions

(The following directions, if followed, will

prevent many unfortunate and costly

mistakes.)

When to Plant

The time of planting can be covered in the
broad assertion that either Fall or Spring
planting is satisfactory.

Shrubbery and shade trees do exceptionally
well when planted in the Fall, although this
fact is not known by most people. Therefore
most shrubbery and trees are usually planted
in the Spring. The very hardy roses can be
planted in the Fall, although as a rule roses
should be planted in the Spring. After the
roses have had one season's growth and
become estabjished they will go through
the Winter without injury if given a very
little attention. For details, see The Rose
Garden, page 26. The time of planting is
hirgely a matter of your convenience. If
you have your grounds ready, plant in the
Fall, but if you are not ready until Spring, do
the planting then — suit your own convenience.

Planting Shrub Borders

First, stake out the outlines of your shrub
groups or borders. We have already spoken
in previous chapters about the planting of
shrubs in groups and borders with irregular
outlines, in order to secure a naturalistic
effect. In making the outline of the border
or group, a limp rope can be laid loosely on
the ground and arranged so as to form round-
ed and graceful curves with deep bays. Then
the outline can be marked with a spade. An-
other method is to use a rake handle or a
stick to mark the outline. If you have not a
detailed plan, it is best to sketch out on a
piece of paper the general outline of the group
and border planting, and then this outline
can be transferred to the ground.

Plant Irregular and Natural Groups

In planting the groups and masses of shrubs,
it is advisable to spade up all of the ground
where, the shrubs are to be planted and to
.smooth it over by hoeing or cultivation, mix-
ing in well rotted manure if possible. Be sure
to plant the shrubs in an irregular manner — •
not in straight rows or lines. However,
enough shrubs of each kind should be
planted together in the different groups in
order to form a definite effect of color or tone.
The larger shrubs, of course, are planted in
the middle of the clumps; the lower,
dwarfish growers are planted in front of the
taller ones and on the outside of the groups.

Distance Between Shrubs

In planting shrubs, the distance between
the plants should be regulated somewhat
by the character of growth; for instance, a
large growing shrub such as Snowball or
Philadelphus should not be planted closer
than three and one-half to four feet between
plants. Shrubs of medium- growth can be
planted three or three and one-half feet apart.
In this class are Spirea Van Houttei, Weigela,
Hydrangeas, etc. Smaller growing plants
such as Japanese Bar-
berry and Snowberry,
can be planted as close-
ly as two or two and
one-half feet. Plant-
ing at these distances
will give the desired
effect very quickly,
however, if you are
willing to wait longer
to get the effect of
shrubbery masses, you
can plant the shrubs
further apart.

How to Plant

We have already
spoken of the planting
distance for shade
trees. Note paragraphs
on page 11. The dis-
tance between street
t roes ranges from 20 to
40 feet. When clumps
of shade trees are
planted, they can be
set as close as 8 to 10
feet, with the under-
standing that some of
them will be eu>t out

later. In planting a tree or shrub, dig large,
deep holes, which will receive the roots
easily without crowding or bending. Keep
the top, rich soil separate from the bottom
soil, and then when the tree is planted, this
top soil can be worked in around the roots.
Be sure to prune the roots of your trees — that
is, cut off all the broken and bruised ends,
making a slanting cut with a sharp knife,
cutting from the under side so the cut sur-
face will rest against the bottom soil.

The tree should be planted at about the
same depth it stood in the nursery row,
sometimes two inches deeper. The dark
ring at the base of the trunk shows the depth
the tree stood in the nursery. Throw in some
of the best top soil and work it in well about
the roots. Tramp and pound the soil
in hard, leaving no air pockets around the
roots. Fill the hole three-fourths full, and if
the soil is very dry, several gallons of water
can be poured in at that time, although
the soil is generally moist enough without the
water. After letting the water sink in fill up
the hole with loose dirt, being sure not to
tramp the top two or three inches of soil.
When planting in the Fall, it is a good plan
to mound up the dirt around the tree or
shrub to a height of 6 to 10 inches. This
can be raked down level the next Spring.
It is a good practice to place well rotted
manure about the base of the tree or shrub
on the surface of the ground.

Also, a mulch of dead grass and leaves
can be raked up about newly planted trees..
This will help to prevent the evaporation of
moisture in the ground and will also furnish
plant food as it rots.

How to Plant a Hedge

In planting the hedge, dig a trench about
one foot wide and 12 to 18 inches deep.
Keep the top soil separate from the bottom
soil. The plants should be set 8 to 10 inches
apart. This applies to Privets, Barberry
and similar plants, while the larger shrubs
like Spirea Van Houttei and Philadelphus
can be planted 12 to 18 inches apart. The
hedge may be set in a single row, or if a quick
effect is desired, set two rows of plants leaving
about 10 inches between the rows; and the
plants in the rows are set 8 inches apart and
alternated. In planting the hedge, work
in the rich top soil around the roots and tramp
it in hard. A mulch of well rotted manure
can be placed on the surface of the ground.

Pruning Shade Trees

Although there are exceptions, the general
rule for pruning
shade trees and
shrubs is to do as
little pruning as
possible — only
enough to keep the
dead and broken
limbs cut out and
to thin out the old
branches of the
shrubs when they
become too thick.

Shade trees can
be pruned in any

season, but the best time to prune is in late
Winter or early Spring. Pruning at this
time causes the trees to make a more vigorous
growth. It is much better to prune the trees
a little every year, cutting out all broken, rot-
ted or undesirable branches rather than make
severe prunings at long intervals. In cut-
ting out the big branches, use a saw, and
cut the branch close to the trunk and nearly
parallel with it.

Frequently, it is desired to repair the
rotted parts of trees. Cavities in the trunks
of the trees can be filled with concrete, and
this will frequently result in the saving of
splendid shade trees. In filling these cavities,
it is absolutely essential to cut out and
remove all the decayed wood, and then to
wash this decayed wood with an antiseptic
such as Corrosive Sublimate (1 part to 1000
parts water) (Poison — handle carefully) or with
some good paint such as White Lead. Then
the whole cavity can be filled with cement

Pruning Shrubs

Immediately after planting shrubs, the
tops should be headed back one-third or one-
half of their growth, as this will tend to make
them become more dense and more bushy.
After the first year or two, shrubs will not
need much pruning — just enough to keep
the old dead wood cut out and in a vigorous
growing condition.

In pruning shrubs, keep in mind their
blooming habit, that is, whether they bloom on
new wood or on the growth made during the
previous season. Most of the Spring flower-
ing shrubs bloom on the last season's growth.
This is true in the case of the Spirea
Van Houttei, Weigela, Forsythia, Lilacs,
Viburnums, Wistaria, and for this reason
these plants should not be pruned until
after they have bloomed. Most of the sum-
mer blooming shrubs, like Hydrangeas,
Philadelphus (Mock Orange), Hibiscus (Rose
of Sharon) and bush roses bloom on the wood
which has been grown during the same season,
and therefore, they should be pruned heavily
in late winter or very early Spring, causing
them to make a vigorous growth the following
Summer.

Pruning the Hedge

Immediately after planting, the hedge
should be headed back. The Privets should
be cut back to within 4 to 6 inches of the
ground. Japanese Barberry, Spirea, Phila-
delphus and Rosa Rugosa should have the
tops cut back one-half of their growth,
immediately after planting. For the firs

A vine-covered porch showing the uses of American Ivy, also a founda-
tion planting of hardy Spirea, Hydrangea and other shrubs.

An interesting sky line. Try to imagine how
unattractive this home would be if there
were no trees near it.

two years, trim the hedge frequently, keeping
it cut low and bushy. In pruning, cut back
the growth to within two inches of the last
pruning — that is, leave two inches of growth
each time the hedge is cut.

Paint for Covering Wounds

As mentioned in a previous paragraph,
White Lead is one of the best paints for
covering tree wounds, but you should be
sure to use pure White Lead mixed with raw
Linseed Oil. Do not use a house paint or
Any paint which has a drier. Mix the White
Lead to about the consistency of buttermilk,
and if a dark color is desired, add lampblack.

Shade and Ornamental Trees

A home without shade trees is difficult to
imagine. You may have a house without
trees, but never a true home. Trees give a
certain dignity and character to any place. In
summer they protect the house from extreme
heat; in winter they ward off the cold blasts.
Trees form the framework of every landscape
planting. Shade trees planted on either side
of the house and on the boundaries of the
property give a feeling of coziness and seclu-
sion. It is our aim to make the home grounds
a "picture" of which the trees are the frame.

Best Street and Avenue Trees

American White Elm ( Ulmus Americana).
European Linden (Tilia Platyphyllos) .
Norway Maple (Acer Platino ides) .
Pin Oak (Quercus Palustris).
Tulip Tree (Liriodendron Tulipifera)
• Silver Leaf Maple (Acer Dasycarpum).
Carolina Poplar (Populus Monolifera).
European Sycamore (Platanus Orientalis) .

Trees for the Lawn

American White Elm ( Ulmus Americana).
American White Ash (Fraxinus Americana).
Norway Maple (Acer Platinoides) .
Silver Leaf Maple (Acer Dasycarpum).
Wier Cut- Leaf Maple (Acer Dasycarpum Wierii)
European Linden (Tilia Americana).
European Sycamore (Platanus Orientalis).
Pin Oak (Quercus Palustris).

The Catalpa Bungei with its almost rain-proof
roof of green leaves makes a splendid lawn speci-
men. In great demand among Stark customers.

Lombardy Poplar (Populus Nigra Fastigiata).
European White Birch (Betula Alba)
Cut-Leaf Weeping Birch (Betula Alba Lacin-

iata Pendula).

Red Bud (Cercis Canadensis).
Crimson- Leaf Plum (Prunus Pissardi).
Umbrella Catalpa (Catalpa Bungei)
Tea's Weeping Mulberry.
Russian Olive (Eleagnus Argentea).
Babylonian Willow (Salix Babylonica).

Trees of Rapid Growth

Tulip Tree (Liriodendron Tulipifera).
Carolina Poplar (Populus Monolifera).
Norway Poplar (Populus Norway).
Lombardy Popla,r(Populus Nigra Fastigiata).
Catalpa Speciosa.

Silver Leaf Maple (Acer Dasycarpum).
Wier's Cut-Leaf Maple (Acer Dasy. Wierii).

BOTANICAL NAME

COMMON NAME

Approx.
Height
in Feet

GROWTH

HABIT
and
FORM

50 60

Rapid

Wiers Cut-lf Maple.

SO

Rapid

Box Elder .

40-50

Rapid

40-50

Acer Platanoides var. Schwedleri .

Red Leaf Maple

30-40
40-60

Medium to Slow. . .

Pyramidal

Betula Alba

40-50

Medium to Rapid..

Pyramidal

Betula Alba Laciniata Pendula.. .

Cut-lf. Wpg. Wh. Birch.

50
6-10

Medium to Rapid. .
Rapid , . .

Weeping
Round

Catalpa Speciosa

Common Catalpa
Red Bud

40
15-25

Rapid

Pyramidal

40

Oval

8-12

50-80

Rapid

Gymnocladus Canadensis
Liriodendron Tulipifera

Kentucky Coffee Bean .
Tulip Tree

40
40-60
6-10

Rapid
Medium

Oval
Oval

10-20

Oval

6-10

Rapid .

130-170

Rapid

Oval

80

Oval

Populus Nigra Fastigiata

Lombardy Poplar

80-90
40-50

Very Rapid

Columnar

Populus "Norway"

Norway Poplar

50-60
15-20

Very Rapid

Pyramidal
Oval

20-30

Rapid

Oval

Pyrua Atropurpurea
Pyrus Parkmanni

Stark Purple Leaf Crab .
Parkmann's Flw. Crab .

White Oak ....

15-20
8-12

40-50

Medium
Medium

Oval
Oval

Oval

On r Palustris

Pin Oak ....

50

Quercus Rubra

Red Oak

80-90
12

Slow to Medium. . .
Rapid ^

Oval
Oval

Robinia Pseudacacia

Black Locust
Maiden Hair Tree

60-80
60

Rapid

Oval

S 1' R h 1 nira

40

ofv p r»rpa

12

Oval

T"l' Arnf^rifana

80-90

Rapid . .

Oval

75

Rapid

Oval

American White Elm. . .

60-80

Medium to Rapid..

Vasiform

Diagram of Tree Forms

The above diagrams will be useful in referring
to the last column of the above table.

Box Elder or Ash- Leaf Maple (Acer Negundo.)
Weeping Willow (Salix Babylonica) .

Weeping Trees

Cut-Leaf Birch (Betula Alba Laciniata Pendula)
Wier's Cut-Leaf Maple (Acer Dasycarpum

var. Wierii).

Weeping Willow (Salix Babylonica) .
Tea's Weeping Mulberry (Morus Alba, var.

Tatarica Pendula).

A Graceful Weeping Tree

Tea's Weeping Mulberry with its long slender
drooping branches is one of the finest weeping
trees. Appropriate for cemetery and lawn plant-
ing. Grown in enormous blocks by Stark Bro's

[16]

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

ASH, AMERICAN, Fraxinus Americana. A
stately, symmetrical tree of spreading habit
attaining a height of 80 feet. Of rapid growth.
Excellent for shade and .ornamental planting.
Foliage glossy green and divided. One of the
choicest of our grand old native trees, quick
in growth, with massive trunk and sturdy
limbs, valued alike for street, timber and
lawn planting.

BIRCH, CUT-LEAVED WEEPING
WHITE, Betula Alba Laciniata Pendula. An
excellent ornamental tree with finely cut,
fern-like foliage. Slender pendulous branches.
Perfectly hardy, of rapid growth, and not par-
ticular as to soil although a slightly moist
location is preferable. Will grow 50 feet or
more in height.
BIRCH, EUROPEAN
WHITE, Betula Alba.
Attains a height of 50
feet or more. A rapid
growing symmetrical
tree of graceful form
and slightly drooping
branches. Small glossy
green foliage. The white
bark which is more con-
spicuous in older trees
is a dainty touch to
the surrounding greens
of the landscape.
CATALPA BUNGEI,
Umbrella Catalpa. A
broad-foliaged tree of
dwarf habit, 8 to 10 ft.
in height. Neat, com-
pact, round head on ,,
slender trunk. Requires SuOar Maple— A per-
little or no trimming. manent native tree.
Used extensively for planting on either side of
walk leading to residence where area is
limited; also for Japanese gardens and other
formal effects.

CATALPA SPECIOSA, Lady Cigar Tree,
Western Catalpa. A hardy western tree of
rapid growth and often 60 feet in height.
Valuable for fence posts and ties. Flowers
mottled white succeeded by long dark brown
beans which are attractive during the early
winter months. A good tree for grove plant-
ing where quick shade is desired. Thrives
equally well in moist or dry soils.
CHERRY, DOUBLE FLOWERED, Cerasus
Japonica Rosea Pendula. A weeping Japan-
ese tree of graceful appearance. Pink flowers
in early May literally cover the branches.
CRIMSON LEAF PLUM, Prunus Pissardi.
One of our best purple leaved trees. Of
medium size and perfectly hardy. Foliage
and twigs dark purple forming a striking con-
trast when planted near the border. A good
specimen tree.

ELM, AMERICAN, Ulmus Americana. An
old favorite used for many purposes. Of
graceful spreading habit with slightly droop-
ing branches. Is adapted to a variety of con-
ditions. Easily transplanted. An excellent
avenue tree and unexcelled as' a rapid growing
shade tree — one that needs no introduction.
The best of all native trees.
FLOWERING CRAB, Pyrus Parkmanni.
A very attractive small tree or shrub, -'8 to-
12 feet in height. Semi-double rosy-pink
flowers are followed by small dark red fruits
which ripen in late autumn. A beautiful 'dis-
play in the border or as specimens on the lawn.
KENTUCKY COFFEE BEAN TREE.
Gymnocladus Canadensis. A native tree at-
taining large size. Of rapid growth, produc-
ing heavy spreading branches. Flowers green
in June followed by long pods which produce
the beans said to have been used by early
settlers for coffee. A clean, stout, shade tree,
desirable for street and lawn planting. It
seems immune from disease, and in winter
the blunt twigless branches give it a unique
individuality.

LINDEN, AMERICAN, Tilia Americana. A
valuable native tree of rapid growth forming
a broad round open top. Fragrant creamy-
white flowers borne on winged stalks in July.
A honey-bee favorite. Adapted to a variety
of soils. Wood utilized for veneering. A good
avenue or specimen tree.

LINDEN, BROAD LEAVED EUROPEAN,
Tilia Platyphyllos. A broad leaved European
species often 75 feet in height. Leaves green
and rough. Used as a specimen tree for shade.
The famous tree of Parisian and Berlin streets
that is holding its own on American soil as

one of the foremost for avenue planting.
More pyramidal and uniform in habit than
American Linden.

LOCUST, BLACK, Robinia Pseudacacia. A
native rapid growing tree with spreading
branches. Long drooping clusters of creamy
white, pea-shaped, fragrant flowers in Spring.
Good background tree for border. The tim-
ber is so durable that it is in demand for
many commercial purposes.
MAGNOLIA SOULANGEANA, Magnolia
Soulangeana. A beautiful small tree to 20
feet, producing large pinkish flowers in April
before the leaves. A strong growing variety
from China. Very desirable as specimen
plant. MAGNOLIA, STAR, Mag-

nolia Halleana Stellata. A Jap-
anese shrub or small tree at-
taining the height of 10 feet.
Flowers white and produced
abundantly in early Spring be-
fore the leaves making the plant
very attractive. Excellent as a
specimen plant on a lawn.
MAIDEN HAIR TREE OR
GINKGO, Salisburia Adiant-
ifolia. A medium fast growing
tree to 60 feet; from the Orient.
Foliage yellowish green and
fernlike. Prefers a moist deep

American White Ash—A splendid native tree
of rapid growth and long life.

soil. Good for specimen or groups near the
border. It is especially valuable in the eastern
states where it withstands city conditions
most successfully. Immune from insects and
diseases.

MAPLE, ASH LEAVED or BOX ELDER,
Acer Negundo. A large native tree of rapid
growth and spreading habit. Adapted to a
variety of soils but succeeds best in a moist
location. Planted extensively in the West
where it endures both the cold and arid con-

MAPLE, MONUMENTAL SUGAR, Acer
Saccharum Monumentalis. A variety of the
preceding, of distinct and attractive appear-
ance. Of tall spiry form. Longer lived than
Lombardy Poplar. Excellent for
breaking the sky-line in massed
planting.

MAPLE, NORWAY, Acer Pla-
tanoidcs. An excellent compact,
round headed tree of medium
growth, rarely exceeding 50 feet
in height. Requires little or no
pruning. Strong, uniform and
perfectly hardy. Leaves dark
green until late autumn when
they turn a bright yellow. It is
one of the best ornamental trees
and is popular in all lawn, park,

cemetery and street plantings. By many of
the best authorities it is quoted as one of the
few trees that will grow satisfactorily under
city conditions.

MAPLE, PURPLE LEAF NORWAY, Acer
Platanoides var. Schwedleri. An attractive
variety of the above species. Spreading,
about 40 feet in height. Young foliage a
bright red, turning to a dark purplish green,
bright yellow in autumn. Excellent as a
specimen tree or when grouped with other
trees for contrast.

MAPLE, SUGAR, Acer Saccharum. A fine
round headed tree with spreading branches.
Of moderate growth and long duration. An
excellent avenue tree and as a specimen where
dense shade is desired. Valuable also for its
sugar production. Leaves bright green,
changing to golden yellow and orange in
Autumn.

MAPLE, SILVER LEAF, Acer Dasycarpum,
Acer Saccharinum. A rapid growing tree
used extensively for both street and lawn
planting where immediate results are desired.
Grows to 60 feet in height. Foliage silvery
beneath. Easily transplanted and very
hardy. Not particular as to soil, and succeeds
under varied conditions. Of spreading habit,
but may be pruned severely to any height or
form desired.

MAPLE, WIER'S CUT LEAF, Acer Dasy-
carpum Wierii. A strong growing tree with
finely cut foliage and drooping branches.
Hardy and easy to^ransplant. An attractive
specimen tree on the lawn. Very desirable
quick growing tree on account of its graceful
habit.

MULBERRY, Morus.

"Abundance." A vigorous, productive tree
of upright habit. Long, slender, glossy black
fruit of excellent quality. Unquestionably the
best of all varieties of this popular quick
growing ornamental fruit.

"Downing." A rapid growing tree of
shapely form. A prolific bearer of good qual-
ity, glossy, black fruit. A fine shade tree.
Sometimes planted in the orchards to attract
the birds from the other fruit.

"Globe Headed." A strong rival of the well-
known and ever popular Umbrella Catalpa.
It develops a perfectly formed round head
without pruning. Especially attractive when
grafted on stems 5 or 6 feet from the ground.

"Gorgeous." Its name is in itself a complete
description, luscious jet black fruit, clean,
beautiful foliage and quick growth; usually
bears when three years old. Originated by
E. H. Riehl of 111. Experiment Station, from
whom we secured it for introduction to the
trade. The largest of all mulberries.

"Monarch." A rapid growing tree attain-
ing large size. Berries white, sweet and rich
with a long ripening season. Very prolific.
Tree attains greater size than any other
Mulberry.

" New American." A hardy vigorous
grower and very productive. Large, sweet,
glossy black berries. Ranks among the best
for fruit and is unsurpassed in ornamental
value for lawn and specimen planting although
like other Mulberries, it should not be planted
where ripening fruit will fall underfoot on
walks.

Carolina Poplar

8 years after plant-
ing. Splendid for
quick results.

Secrets

of Ornamental Planting

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Mulberry (Continued)
"Russian." A very hardy, vigorous grow-
ing tree with bushy top. A form of M. alba.
Fruit small, of little value. Sometimes used
for hedges and low windbreaks.

"Teas Weeping." An excellent, graceful
weeping tree with long branches that
sweep the ground. A favorite for cemetery
planting and on other limited areas. A strik-
ingly effective addition to any ornamental
planting. It ranks as one of the best weeping
trees in cultivation. To 10 feet in height.

OAK PIN, Quercus Palustris. A beautiful
tree of spreading habit growing to 50 feet in
height. Unexcelled for street planting, being
a very shapely tree. A fine specimen tree for
the lawn. Foliage bright green turning to
scarlet and yellow in autumn. As the tree
grows the branches droop giving it a beautiful
and characteristic outline. This variety is one
of the easiest oaks to transplant.

OAK, RED, Quercus Rubra. A native species
of rather fast growth to 80 feet. Leaves pink
when unfolding, later dark green and deeply
cut turning a dark brownish crimson in Au-
tumn. Bears large acorns. Ideal for planting
where a fast growing oak is desired. A beaut-
iful lawn tree and favored for street planting.

OAK, WHITE, Quercus Alba. One of our
large native deciduous trees of medium
growth. It makes a beautiful specimen tree
when given sufficient space to develop. A
long lived tree excellent for lawn, timber or
park planting. Leaves cling till winter is
well advanced, a most pleasing characteristic
of this variety.

POPLAR, CAROLINA, Populus Mono-
lifera (Deltoides.) A widely known tree of
rapid growth. The heart-shaped leaves are
glossy and attractive. Often planted on the
avenue, but should be topped occasionally to
make it bush out. If left unpruned, it soon
attains the height of 40 or 50 feet. Fine for
windbreak when planted close together. It
withstands easily conditions under which other
trees die.

POPLAR, LOMBARDY, Populus Nigra
Fastigiata. A familiar Italian tree from the
province, Lombardy. A very rapid growing
tree, the height often exceeding 80 feet.
Excellent to break the skyline in massed
planting, as an accent in the landscape, as a
windbreak or a screen. The most common
and popular of all columnar trees.

POPLAR, NORWAY, Populus Norway. An
excellent tree of the Carolina type but of more
rapid growth and by many it is considered
hardier. Termed "The Sudden Sawlog" in
the west. Should be planted extensively
where quick results are desired and is espe-
cially valuable for planting around new build-
ings. First brought to the attention of
horticulturists in 1897 in Faribault Co., Minn.,
but is now in demand throughout the country.

PERSIMMON, Diospyros Virginica. A
medium sized native tree to aboiit 40 feet in
height. Much prized for the roundj orange
yellow fruit which is edible after frost: 1 0f
moderate growth with deeply furrowed bark.

PLUM, ROYAL PURPLE, Prunus Vesuvius.
A choice variety somewhat similar to P. Pis-
sardi, but in many ways superior to it. A
vigorous grower with very large crimson
leaves and deep rich colored fruit. Originated
by Luther Burbank.

RED BUD, Cercis Canadensis. A small tree
or shrub seldom attaining 25 feet in height.
Foliage heart shaped. The small red flowers
are thickly set on the branches in early spring
before the leaves appear. Decidedly one of
the best flowering shrubs and worthy of
extensive planting.

ROSE ACACIA or MOSS LOCUST,

Robinia Hispida Rosea. A dwarf tree to
12 feet. Large drooping panicles of rose col-
ored flowers in May. Branches with bristles
like the Moss Rose. Foliage bright green and
divided. Splendid for the border and natural
planting.

RUSSIAN OLIVE or SILVER LEAVED
OLEASTER, Elaeagnus Argentea. A small
tree or shrub to about 12 feet with small wil-
low-like foliage, silver-white in appearance.
Flowers small, yellow and fragrant, succeeded
by yellow fruit. Perfectly hardy and makes a
successful hedge plant. Combined with other

shrubs in a border planting it presents a
novel and striking contrast that results in ex-
clamations of delight.

SYCAMORE, AMERICAN or WESTERN
PLANE TREE, Platanus Occident alia. A

The graceful white
birch against a back-
ground of green gives "
touch of dainty beauty-

native tree of immense
size. Of rapid growth
and spreading habit.
Leaves large with
pointed lobes. Success-
fully used as street
trees. Globe-shaped
heads of seed persist
until late winter. The
mottled white and
brown bark on the
sturdy limbs and trunks of old trees is
very conspicuous in winter landscapes.
SYCAMORE, EUROPEAN or ORI-
ENTAL PLANE, Platanus Orientalis. An
erect tree of rapid growth. Easily trans-
planted. More desirable than the American
species. Extensively used for avenue
planting in cities where it successfully
withstands smoke, dust and traffic. Re-
markably free from insects and diseases.
Prefers a deep moist soil but thrives in a
variety of soils from seashore to moun-
taintop. Such authorities as City Forester
Koenig of St. Louis commend it for gen-
eral and universal street planting.

Black Walnut — valued for its shade and beauty
as well as for the splendid nuts it bears.

TULIP TREE or YELLOW POPLAR, Lirioden-
dron Tulipifera. An excellent tree of large proportions
and rapid growth. Often attains a height of 60 feet.
Fragrant, tulip shaped, bright green and orange yel-
low flowers borne very freely during June. A very
attractive and desirable tree on the lawn, but is slight-
ly hard to transplant if very large. When established
it succeeds well in any soil and easily repays for care
in planting.

WILLOW, PUSSY, Salix Caprea. A small tree or
shrub to 12 feet. Of upright habit. Produces fleecy
flower buds in early Spring which are very attractive.
Good in the border planting in moist soils for a natural
effect.

WILLOW, WEEPING, Salix Babylonica. The well
knownWeepingWillow whose long pendulous branches
droop so gracefully. An admirable shade tree for
planting near the water edge. Grows to a height
of 40 feet. Very rapid growth, succeeds easily.

Nut Trees

CHESTNUT, AMERICAN SWEET. A large native
ornamental tree of symmetrical habit. Bears sweeter
nuts of fine flavor but are not quite as large as the
others. Fine for specimen groups on the landscape.
CHESTNUT, COOPER, Grafted. Tree a rapid
grower bearing large nuts of good quality.
CHESTNUT, ROCHESTER, Grafted. A hardy,
vigorous tree of rapid growth. Not particular as to
soil. Adapted to the same conditions as our native
species. Profitable as well as ornamental.

FILBERT, ENGLISH,

CorylusAvellana. A hardy
branching shrub to 8 feet
bearing a good quantity
of edible nuts. A vaula-
ble border plant both as
an ornamental and as an
economic plant.

HICKORY, MISSOURI
MAMMOTH. A native
of the rich alluvial bot-
toms of the Mississippi
Valley. Tree grows to
a great height. Nuts
arge and of good quality.

Tulip Tree — a

favorite lawn

tree bearing

tulip-shaped

flowers.

European Linden — famous in Europe and America.

18

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

HICKORY, SHELLBARK. A commonly-
known tree of our forest. Recognized by its
stout grey branches, open top and shaggy
bark which makes it look very picturesque.
Bears large crops of high quality nuts though
not as large as the preneeding.
PECAN, ILLINOIS SEEDLING. Origina-
ted in Pike Co., 111. A thrifty tree producing
extra large nuts.

PECAN, MISSOURI SEEDLING. Pro-
duced from seed of tree bearing extra large
nuts near our home nursery.

The American White Elm

The grandest of all American trees', of fairly
rapid growth and long-lived. Stark Bro's
blocks of Elm. are in great demand.

PECAN, PABST, Grafted. Nut of excellent
quality and of moderate size. Shell soft, part-
ing well from meat. The paper-shell pecans
are not hardy in the north.
PECAN, STUART, Grafted. The most popu-
lar paper-shell pecan. Tree a vigorous grower
bearing nuts of good quality in abundance.
PECAN, VAN DEMAN, Grafted. A large
nut of good quality. Oblong in shape with
moderately thin shell.

WALNUT, BLACK, Juglans Nigra. A large
spreading tree to 50 feet with divided foliage.
Extensively planted as a timber tree as the
wood is very valuable. Perfectly hardy and
prolific, bearing large rich nuts of good quality.
WALNUT, JAPAN, Juglans Sieboldiana. A
hardy tree from Japan. An abundance of
small, thin-shelled, sweet nuts of good quality
produced in clusters. Tree a vigorous grower
and ornamental. Bears young.
WALNUT, WHITE (BUTTERNUT), Jug-
lans Cinerea. Rather fast growing tree, at-
taining large size. Rough oblong nuts with
very rich meat. Perfectly hardy.

Evergreens

CONCOLOR FIR, Abies Concolor. Very
hardy, grows rapidly, withstands heat and
drouth. Foliage varies from light green to
deep blue. Long-lived, attaining a height of
00 to 80 feet.

DOUGLAS FIR, Abies Douglasi. Dark
green foliage slightly drooping — a large
stately tree.

BOXWOOD PYRAMID. A dwarf growing
evergreen plant somewhat resembling privet.
Good for low hedges but not hardy north.
COUNARTI JUNIPER, Juniperus Counarti.
A very hardy pyramidal shaped Juniper. The
dense, dark green foliage lies close to the
ground. Can be sheared.
JUNIPERUS PFITZERIANA. Uniform
growth; requires no trimming. Used extens-
ively for lawn and cemetery planting.
JAPANESE TRAILING JUNIPER, Juni-
perus Procumbe.ns. Dwarf form.
SCHOTTI JUNIPER, Juniperus Schotti. A
native Rocky Mountain species; graceful in
habit with dark green foliage. Moderately
rapid in growth, dense and symmetrical.
RED CEDAR. Juniperus Virginiana. A
compact tree varying somewhat in color and
form. Foliage bright green in Summer and
assuming a darker hue in Winter.

SILVER CEDAR, Juniperus Virginiana
Glauca A vigorous growing variety with con-
spicuous light colored foliage.
SAVIN JUNIPER, Juniperus Sabina. A fine
low growing Juniper for massing in groups.
LEE GOLDEN JUNIPER, Juniperus Ell.
Lee. A tall grower. Will endure heat and
wind well.

JUNIPERUS SABINA PROSTRATA. A
very low growing, prostrate form with dull
green foliage.

WHITE SPRUCE, Picea Alba. Excellent
for windbreaks. A long-lived, rapid-growing
tree that does well anywhere.
NORWAY SPRUCE, Picea Excelsa. Our
well-known spruce. Foliage dark green; fine.
Tree pyramidal to 45 feet in height. Hardy.
COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE, Picea Pun-
gens Glauca. Foliage bluish to dark green.
Branches in whorls extending horizontally.
BLUE SPRUCE, GRAFTED, Picea Pun-
gens Kosteriana Glauca. Drouth-resistant.
Compact in growth. Good for shelterbelts.
DWARF MUGHO PINE, Pinus Mugho. A
dwarf form suitable for low planting.
WHITE PINE, Pinus Strobus. One of the
best native pines with smooth bark, hori-
zontal branches bearing dark green foliage
arranged in groups of five.
SWISS STONE PINE, Pinus Cembra. Small,
compact tree of a bluish-green color.

AUSTRIAN PINE, Pinus Austriaca. A ro-
bust grower, withstanding severe conditions.
AMERICAN ARBOR VITAE, Thuya Occi-
dental's. A good hedge plant. Foliage scaly
of bright green color, slightly lighter on under
side. Pruned to desired height and shape.
DOUGLAS GOLDEN ARBOR VITAE,
Thuya Occidentalis Aurea. A golden yellow
variety of the preceding.

PEABODY'S GOLDEN ARBOR VITAE
Thuya Occidentalis Lutea. A yellow foliaged
evergreen broadly pyramidal in form.

Norway Maple

Easily queen of all the Maples; forms a dense

round head; probably the most popular shade

tree for lawn and avenue.

HEMLOCK Tsuga Canadensis. A very
graceful tree with fern-like foliage. Thrives
in partial shade.

SIBERIAN ARBOR VITAE, Thuya Oc-
cidentalis Warreana Siberica. Another hardy
form well known as a hedge plant.

Hardy Perennials

ASTER TATARICA. An excellent va-
riety with bright purple flowers and heavy
foliage. 5 ft. in height. Fall blooming.
ANCHUSA, " Dropmore Variety." Stems
3 to 5 ft. in height, bearing showy, deep blue
flowers from spring until late summ
BALL OF SNOW. Achillea m

"Boule de Niege." Small double
white flowers, borne profusely on
slender, graceful branches.
An erect, compact grower.
Better than the Pearl. Fin
for cutting. Not
particular as to soil.
To 2 feet in
height.

BLANKET FLOWER, Gaillardia Grandi-
flora. One of the best perennials. Large,
daisy-like flowers, with dark, reddish-brown
centers, blending through all shades to
orange-crimson at the petal tips. 2 ft. high.

CANTERBURY BELLS, Campanula Caly-
canthema. A most popular "cup and saucer"
variety with rose-colored flowers, often 3
inches long. Grows to 3 ft. in height.

FOXGLOVE, Digitalis Rosea. An old,
well known favorite with rose colored,
bell or thimble shaped flowers, densely
arranged at the ends of the slender branches.
Blooms July and August. Height 4 ft.

CHRYSANTHEMUM, Pompon Varieties.
Hardy varieties of the bachelor button type
are very attractive in the border. Pink, yel-
low or white colors. To 3 ft. in height.

GOLDEN GLOW, Rudbeckia. An excellent,
tall growing, hardy perennial plant, with
hundreds of bright, golden yellow flowers
as large as dahlias, on slender stems. 7 ft.

GERMAN IRIS, Iris Germanica. Should
have a prominent place in every perennial
collection. Excellent, large, beautiful, showy
flowers. Fine effect when planted near
water. May or June. We grow the blue,
white and yellow varieties.

JAPANESE IRIS, Iris Kaempferi. Im-
mense flowers in June and July, produced on
stout stems 3 ft. high. Red flowers.

MALLOWS, Hibiscus Moscheutos. Large
flowers resembling the old time Hollyhock.
Vigorous grower with strong upright shoots
to 5 ft. Flowers produced in July and August.
Both pink and white colors.

MOUNTAIN BLUET, Centaurea Alpina.
Similar in appearance to the Corn flower.
Large violet-blue, flowers on 3 ft. stems.

ORIENTAL POPPY, Papaver Orientate.
Immense flowers of a bright flaming scarlet
color, wearing at the base of the cup, formed
by the petals, a maltese cross of purple
black. A thrifty grower to 3 ft.

PHLOX. The huge clusters of beautiful
colored flowers terminating the many leafy
shoots, make this plant most attractive.
A border of hardy perennials is incomplete
without the Phlox. Supplied in the following
colors: white, white-red eye, pink, red.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN COLUMBINE,

Aquilegia Coerulea. The showy, light blue-
flowers on slender branches are very showy
in early spring. Height about 2 ft.

ZEBRA GRASS, Eulalia Japonica Zebrina.
A variegated grass with green leaves, banded
yellow. Rarely over 18 in. in height.

WIND FLOWER, Anemone Japonica Alba.
Very attractive. Of rapid growth to 2 or
3 ft. in height. Flowers pure white with
yellow center — August till November.

PAEONIES, described on page 24.

A row of thrifty Euro-
pean Sycamore grown by
Stark Bro's. This
tree and American
Elm and Norway
Maple were selected as
the best for street
planting by the
city foresters.
All are
good
growers.

[19]

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

imiiiiiiiiiiiiiiNiiiniiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiHiiHiiiiiiiiin^

Hardy Flowering Shrubs

The correct planting of naturalistic shrub borders and shrub groups is one of the most
important factors in attaining a good, naturalistic landscape planting. The shrubs in groups
and borders must be irregular in outline with graceful, sweeping curves and deep bays. The

outline of the groups must be irregular and also the sky-line or perspective must be uneven and

naturalistic. There must be accent in the planting, such

as a shrub or tree of very slender, upright growth. It is

necessary to study the characteristics of the different shrubs

before making up your shrub group. The taller, more

upright shrubs should be used in the background or in the

center of the group. Then the shrubs of medium height

should be used in front of these, while on the very edge we

use the low, spreading shrubs which are known as "facers."

Everyone has seen the character of undergrowth which

appears on the edge of a forest. There you will see the large

shrubs in behind and the lower, spreading shrubs in front.

This is exactly the same effect at which we are striving when

we plant a naturalistic shrub border.

FLOWERING SHRUBS IN ORDER OF
BLOOM.

(Including many of the best species.)
APRIL.

Cercis Canadensis — Red bud.
Tamarix Africana — Tamarisk.
Forsythia — Golden Bell.
Spirea Thunbergii — Dwarf Spirea.

MAY.

Lonicera Tatarica — Tartarian Honeysuckle.
Spirea Van Houttei.
Prunus Pissardi — Purple eaf flowering

plum.

Prunus triloba — Rose tree of China.
Lilacs, in variety.

Lonicera Morrowii — Bush Honeysuckle.
Deutzia gracilis — Dwarf Deutzia.
Viburnum lantana — Wayfaring tree.
Lonicera Tatarica — Bush Tartarian Honey-
suckle.
Deutzia Lemoinei — Lemoine's Deutzia.

JUNE.

Viburnum opulus — High bush Cranberry.
Viburnum opulus, var. sterilis — Snowball.
Cornus alba — Red stemmed Dogwood.
Deutzia scabra- — "Pride of Rochester."
Weigela, in variety.
Philadelphus coronarius — Mock Orange or

Syringa.
Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora.

JULY.

Syringa Japonica — Tree Lilac.
Symphoricarpus racemosus- — Snowberry.
Spirea Billardi — Billard's Spirea.
Spirea Anthony Waterer. *

AUGUST AND LATER.
A Ithea — Hibiscus.
Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora.

SHRUBS WITH BRIGHT COLORED
FRUITS.

Berberis Thunbergii — Japanese Barberry.
Berberis vulgaris — Common Barberry.
Cornus Florida — Flowering Dogwood.
Euonymus alatus — Strawberry tree.

Rosa ruyosa — Japanese Rose.
Symphoricarpus racemosus — Snowberry.

Viburnum opulin — High bush Cranberry.

Carolina A II-
spice (Caly-
canthus), a

charming
spicy scented

shrub that
should be in

your next

order from
Stark Bro's.

Amid the Deutzias on Stark
Bro's office lawn.

Japanese Barberry — The
universal hedge plant; ideal
low growing shrub for foun-
dation planting (at the left).

Botanical
Name

Common
Name

Height
When
Fully
Grown

f ime
of
Flower-
ing

Color
of
Bloom

Habit
of
Growth

Amelanchier canadensis. .

une Berry

10 ft.
20

May

White
White

Erect
Erect

Aralia pentaphylla
Berberis Thunbergii
Berberis vulgaris
Berberis vulgaris atropur-
purea

\ngelica Tree
(apanese Barberry
Common Barberry

3urple If. Barberry

10
4
6

6

4

June
June
vlay— June

ilay— June

Yellow
Yellow
Yellow

Yellow
Blue

Erect
Spreading
Spreading

Spreading

Calycanthus floridus

Car. Allspice, Strawberry
Bush

4-6

f~* r»Vi 1 nthii<! nrrirlpntalis

5-7

White

Cercis canadensis
Cornus alba "Siberica" . . .

Red Bud or Judas Tree . .
Red Stemmed Dogwood .

16-25
8
10-15

April
June

Pink
White
White

Erect
Arching

Cornus florida var. rubra..
Deutzia gracilis
Deutzia Lemoinei
Deutzia scabra
Diervilla florida
Diervilla florida var. Can-
dida

Red Flowering Dogwood
Dwarf Deutzia
Lemoine's Deutzia
"Pride of Rochester". . .
Weigela rosea

White Weigela

12-16
2
3
6
6

6

May
May
May
June
Slay— June

Pink or Red
White
White
Pink
Pink

White

Erect
Spreading
Spread. -Arch.
Spread. -Arch.
Spreading

Erect-Spread

Diervilla hybrida Eva
Rathke . ...

Weigela Eva Rathke ....

4

Euonymus alatus
Forsythia Fortune!

Burning Bush
Fortune's Golden Bell. . .
Golden Bell

8
5
8-10

June
April

White
Yellow
Yellow

Spread. -Erect
Erect
Spread. -Arch

Witch Hazel

20

Yellow

Erect

5-10

July-Sept.

Erect

Hydrangea arborescens
var. grandiflora
Hydrangea paniculata

Hills of Snow

4-5
8

June-Aug.
July— Oct

White
White

Spreading

Ligustrum amurense
Ligustrum Ibota

Amoor River Privet. . . .
Ibota Privet
California Privet

10-15
8-10
10-12

July
July

White
White

Spread ins
Spreading
Spread. -Erect

3-6

Spread. -Arch.

12-15

Spread. -Arch.

Lonicera f ragrantissima . .
Lonicera Tatarica var.
rubra
Lonicera Tatar, var. alba .
Lonicera Tatarica. var.
rosea grandiflora
Philadelphus aureus
Philadelphus coronarius . .
Philadelphus Gordonianus
Philadelphus Lemoinei . . .

Fragrant Honeysuckle. . .

Tartarian Honeysuckle . .
White Tar. Honeysuckle.

Pink Flow'd Honeysuckle
Golden Syringa
Mock Orange
Gordons Syringa
Lemoine's Syringa

4-6

5
6-9

6-8
3
10
12

4

Apr.— May

May— June
May— June

May-June
May-June
May
June
May-June

Pink

Pink
White

Pink
White
White
White
White

Erect-Arch.

Erect-Spread.
Erect-Spread.

Spreading
Spread .-Arch.
Spreading
Spreading
Spread. -Arch.

Double-Flow'g Plum . .
White Kerria

5-7
3-5

May

Rose

White

Erect
Spread. -Arch.

5

White

Rhus cotinus
Rhus glabra
Rhus typhina laciniata. . .
Sambucus canadensis aurea
Spiraea Bumalda, var.
"Anthony Waterer" . . .

Smoke Bush
Smooth Sumach
Staghorn Sumach
Golden Elder

Anthony Waterer Dwarf

10-15
10-12
15

8

2

July
July
July
June

Yellowish Green
Cream
Cream
White

Crimson

Erect-Spread .
Erect
Erect
Spreading

Spreading

Spiraea Billardii
Spiraea opulifolia var. aurea
Spiraea Thunbergii
Spiraea Van Houttei
Symphoricarpus racemosus

Billard's Spirea
Ninebark or Golden Spirea
Thunberg's Spirea
Spirea Van Houttei
Snowberry

6
7
4
6
3
10-15

August
June
May
May
May

Crimson
White
White
White
Pink
Purple

Spreading
Spreading
Spreading
Spread. -Arch.
Arch. -Spread.
Spread. -Erect

Syringa vulgaris var. alba
Syringa Japonica

Common White Lilac. . . .
"Giant Tree Lilac"

6
15-20

May
June

White
Yellowish-White

Erect-Spread.
Erect

'Belle de Nancy"

6

May

Rose

Spread. -Erect

6

White

Spread. -Erect

'Henri Sladek"

6

May

Reddish-Purple

Spread. -Erect

6

May

Purple

Spread. -Erect

6

White

Spread. -Erect

6

May

Deep Lavender

Spread. -Erect

'Pres. Grevy"

6

May

Blue

Spread. -Erect

5

White

Spread. -Erect

Syringa Persica
Syringa Rothomagensis . .

Persian Lilac
Rouen or Chinese Lilac . .

5
10-12
8

May
May
April

White
Purple
Pink

Erect-Arch.
Arching

Viburnum dentatum
Viburnum lantana

Arrow Wood
Wayfaring Tree

6
10

8

June
June

White
White
White

Erect
Erect
Erect-Arch.

10-12

White

Spread. -Erect

Viburnum plicatum

Japan_ Snowball

8
2

[May-June

White
White

Spread.-Arch.

Weigela rosea
Weigela Candida
Weigela hybrida var.
Eva Rathke

Rose Weigela
White Weigela

Red Weigela

6
6

4

May— June
June

June-July

Pink
White

Crimson

Spreading
Erect-Spread.

Spread. -Erect

20

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

A Select List of Shrubs

A magnificent group of hardy flowering shrubs
for a lawn or garden border. The Hibiscus and
Weigela being used in the background while
Barberry and Deutzia are used as "facers" in
front and the Snowball either in the border or as
a specimen near it.

1. Berberis vulgaris (Common Barberry).

2. Viburnum opulus sterilis (Snowball).

3. Deutzia Lemoinei.

4. Hibiscus (Althea)

5. Weigela rosea.

21

AMELANCHIER CANADENSIS, June
Berry. Large shrub or tree of upright habit
and slender, spreading branches. White
flowers profusely borne in early spring,
usually before the leaves appear, and suc-
ceeded by red edible berries. Very orna-
mental in the border.

ARALIA SPINOSA, Chinese Angelica Tree
(Hercules Club) — -A large shrub or tree to
20 ft., with heavy, prickly stems. Foliage
large and divided. Hardier than A. Chi-
nensis. Fine for rockery and dry soils.
Gives a fine sub-tropical appearance.

ARALIA PENTAPHYLLA, Five-leaved An-
gelica Tree. A prickly shrub of neat appear-
ance, bearing dense foliage of bright green
color on graceful, drooping branches. Flowers
greenish-white, in June. Fine for rocky
slopes, banks and mass planting. Grows
well under city conditions and makes a
splendid shrub where others fail. Grows
to 10 ft., but may be topped any height
desired.

BERBERIS THUNBERGII, Japanese Bar-
berry. A charming little plant that adapts
itself to almost any planting and environ-
ment. Its tiny little leaves turn to a
gorgeous orange-red before they fall in late
autumn. Masses of small, sharp thorns
add to its effectiveness as a barrier, while
its loads of scarlet berries give it unrivaled
beauty during the winter. It is impartial
as to soil and is as fond of sun as shade.
It endures all sorts of clipping and abuse —
in short, it is our most valued hedge plant.
Height 4 ft.

BERBERIS VULGARIS, Common Bar-
berry. An European species, growing to
6 ft. Stocky in appearance; an erect,
sturdy grower that thrives in any soil.
Clusters of golden flowers are produced in
May, followed by orange-scarlet berries
which are adherent throughout the winter.
Although secondary to B. Thunbergii, it
is popular as a hedge plant as well as effect-
ive in border planting.

BERBERIS VULGARIS ATROPURPU-
REA, Purple Leaved Barberry. Shrub of up-
right habit, bearing purple foliage throughout
summer; being a variety developed from the
above. Reddish-purple berries in autumn.
Height 6 ft. Effective for contrast in mass
plantings. Good specimen plant for variety.
BUDDLEIA VARIABILIS MAGNIFICA,
Butterfly Bush. Beautiful shrub to 4 ft.
with large clusters of lilac colored flowers
which attract butterflies in large numbers.
Sometimes winter kills to the ground and
should be given slight protection during
winter. Fine for border front.

CALYCANTHUS FLORIDUS, Carolina
Allspice. A widely known shrub with dark
green foliage, bearing chocolate colored,
spicy, aromatic flowers in May. Sometimes
called Strawberry Bush, as the odor is some-
what similar to that of the strawberry fruit.
Height from 4 to 6 ft. Succeeds in any well-
drained rich soil and in shady or sunny
locations. A good border plant tor massed
effect.

CEPHALANTHUS OCCIDENTALS, But-
ton Bush. A sturdy native, round topped
shrub of rapid growth, preferring a damp
soil, but will thrive in upland. Height 5
to 7 ft. Flowers white, in globular heads,
during July. Bright, glossy foliage. Recom-
mended for bog planting, in moist soils
and at water edges.

CERCIS CANADENSIS, Red Bud. A
native shrub or medium sized tree which
produces wonderfully beautiful coral pink,
pea-shaped flowers in great profusion in
the spring, before the leaves unfold. Height
16 to 25 ft. Leaves heart-shaped. A good
background tree for borders and equally
valuable as specimens or in groups.

CORNUS ALBA (SIBERICA), Red Stem
Dogwood. A highly ornamental shrub at-
taining the height of 8 ft. Clusters of white
. flowers, succeeded by bright red berries in
autumn. Should be planted in shrubbery
border where the bright red stems will show
to advantage during winter. The very
best of the red twigged varieties.

CORNUS FLORIDA, White Flowering
Dogwood. A native shrub from 10 to 15 ft.
high. Flowers in great profusion in May.
Very showy. Leaves waxy. Rather slow
growth with spreading branches. Some
of the most enchanting results in orna-
mental planting are attained by the use of
this beautiful Dogwood. Indispensable for
lawn or landscapes, as specimens, or in border.
CORNUS FLORIDA RUBRA, Red Flower-
ing Dogwood. A pink flowering variety of
the preceding, furnishing a delightful con-
trast when planted in combination, but is
somewhat less hardy and free flowering.
DEUTZIA GRACILIS. An old fashioned,
dense shrub of dwarf habit. Flowers pure
white and abundantly produced on graceful,
drooping branches in May. Very desirable
for massing along front of border. Height
rarely exceeds 2 ft. Often used for forcing
in the hothouse. Equally good in sun or
shade. Slightly tender in northern states.
DEUTZIA LEMOINEI, Lemoine's Deutzia.
One of the hardiest Deutzias. Flowers
pure white, borne abundantly along the slen-
der branches. Slightly larger and much
hardier than Gracilis. Shrub of spreading
habit to 3 ft. A fine shrub massed near the
house or as a specimen plant.
'DEUTZIA SCABRA, "Pride of Rochester."
One of the earliest flowering Deutzias.
Flowers double; borne in profuse panicles
during the early part of May. Some-
times winter-killed in more northern states.
Often attains 6 ft. At its best in the border,
where it readily proves its right to the
claim of being the finest tall growing Deutzia.

EUONYMUS ALATUS, Winged Burning
Bush. Compact spreading shrub to 8 ft.
Flowers small in May or June, followed by
red berries. Foliage beautiful crimson in
autumn. Very attractive as a border or
specimen plant. Particularly interesting
and ornamental because of its curious
corky-winged bark on twigs and branches.

FORSYTHIA FORTUNEI, Fortune's For-
sythia. A vigorous shrub with upright or
arching branches. Flowers yellow, thickly
set on slender twigs before leaves appear,
making it a very valuable early flowering
whrub. A good 5 ft. plant for front of border

FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA. A graceful,
drooping shrub, which, when trained on a
trellis, will grow to 8 to 10 ft., but when left
alone, rarely exceeds 4 ft. An excellent
shrub for front of border or entrance plant-
ing; also extensively used on banks and
slopes. Conspicuous yellow flowers, freely
borne early in April, before its elegant
foliage opens.

HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA, Witch Hazel.
Shrub or small tree to 20 ft., bearing small,
yellow flowers in spring or autumn. Succeeds
best in rather sandy soil and moist places.
Perfectly hardy. Valuable for deep border
planting.

Hydrangea P. G. — immense blooms
that are very popular.

Spirea Van Houttei

— the one best

shrub.

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

HIBISCUS, Altheas. Double red. A profusion of beautiful double

red flowers in July and August. Bush upright growing to 5 ft. Altheas

are familiar shrubs, deserving of more popularity. They grow almost

anywhere from Canada to the southern coast.

HIBISCUS, Altheas. Double purple. Very attractive in flower,

being an unusually fine purple color.

HIBISCUS, Altheas. Double rose. Double pink flowers similar in

habit to the foregoing.

HIBISCUS, Altheas. "Snowdrift." A profusely flowering single

white variety.

HIBISCUS SYRIACUS, Rose of Sharon. Fine single purple flowers

in profusion. Fine for border planting; 6 to 8 ft. in height.

HIBISCUS TOTUS ALBA, White Rose of Sharon. A beautiful pure

white single variety. Bush 6 ft. in height.

HYDRANGEA ARBORESCENS GRANDIFLORA (STERILIS).

Hills of Snow. An erect shrub to 4 or 5 ft. with large white balls
of flowers in July and August, resembling the Snowball, but larger.
Very attractive planted in large groups in the border.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA GRANDIFLORA. A beautiful shrub
to 8 ft., bearing immense cone-shaped clusters of white flowers in
July and August; almost sterile; turns a bright pink, and finally,
to bronze, as they become older. Very attractive when planted
at the extremity of a neck of planting extending out on the lawn
or as specimen plants near the house. It should be cut back every
spring before growth starts. There is no shrub more showy than
this old favorite.

LONICERA FRAGRANTISSIMA, Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle.
Sweet scented, white flowers, in May; not very showy. Height 4 to
6 ft. with dark green foliage. Sparingly in border where deep color
is desired.

LONICERA GRANDIFLORA ROSEA, Pink-flowered Honeysuckle.
Large pink flowers, followed by red berries which are very showy
in late summer. Good border plant. Like others of this group,
it is hardy and transplants easily.

LONICERA MORROWI, Japanese Bush Honey suckle. An open
spreading bush from Japan, bearing dark green leaves and white
flowers in May, followed by bright red berries, which are very
ornamental in late summer. Height 6 ft. Adapted to border planting.
LONICERA TATARICA ALBA. Large white flowers, followed
by very ornamental scarlet berries in August. A very useful shrub
for general planting; slender upright branches and excellent dark
green foliage.

LONICERA TATARICA RUBRA. Deep pink flowers in May.
The bright red berries are very ornamental in late summer. Height
5 ft. Good for front of border planting. The flowers contrast
beautifully with the foliage. This and L. Grandiflora Rosea appear to
fine advantage when planted together.

PHILADELPHUS CORONARIUS. Sometimes grows 10 ft. high.
Creamy white, and very delightfully fragrant. Flowers are produced
freely in May and June. Presents a very ornamental and attractive
appearance in the border. It is of spreading habit and its arching
branches should be allowed sufficient room to fully develop.
Good specimen plant on the lawn. Without hesitation, we commend
it to every planter.

PHILADELPHUS CORONARIUS AUREUS, Golden Syringa. A
variety of P. Coronarius, with golden yellow foliage throughout sum-
mer. Flowers sparingly. Of compact growth, to 3 ft. Very effective
for edges of shrubbery.

PHILADELPHUS GORDONIANUS, Gordon's Syringa. A fine
shrub, with flowers similar to the preceding, but later in period
of bloom and scentless. Grows to 12 ft. and is especially
adapted to the border where tall spreading plants are
desired. Practically immune from insect pests, and,
like the other varieties,
named, is a strong, vigorous
grower and thrives in partial
shade as well as in sunn"
locations.

Spirea Billardi
"Pink Plumed Spirea."

ROSA RUGOSA, Japanese Rose. A beautiful bush to 5 ft. with rich,
dark green crumpled foliage, which in itself, is sufficient to make this
sturdy rose a part of every ornamental planting. Flowers single
red or white, followed by large attractive orange-red fruits. Fine
for hedge and mass planting.

RHUS COTINUS, Smoke Bush, Purple Fringe. A native ot
Europe, growing from 10 to 15 ft. high. The feathery flowers
are purplish and cover the entire bush, giving it the striking
appearance of smoke, from a distance. A good specimen plant
or for background in deep borders.

RHUS GLABRA, Smooth Sumac. A tall shrub, 10 to 12 ft. in
height, with smooth bark. Flowers, July, produced at the end of
branches, followed by clusters of dark crimson berries. Bright
colored foliage; very attractive in autumn. One of the best
for massing in the border.

RHUS TYPHINA LACINIATA, Cut Leaved Staghorn Sumac. Shrub

PHILADELPHUS LEMOI-

NEI, Lemoine's Syringa. A

sweet-scented hybrid, smaller

than the preceding, rarely

exceeding 4 ft. Erect grow-
ing, with small foliage.

Creamy white flowers in June
entirely cover the
plant. Used at
edge of border or
for entrance plant-
ings.

PRUNUS TRIL-
OBA, Flowering
Almond. A Chinese
shrub which pro-
duces abundant pink, double rose-like
flowers before the leaves appear in the
spring. Very attractive.

RHODOTYPUS KERRIOIDES,
White Kerria. Introduced from
Japan. 3 to 5 ft. high. Flowers white;
late May, followed by conspicuous
lustrous black seeds which cling to
the plant all winter. Foliage light
green, turning golden yellow the latter
part of summer. Requires little
attention and is one of the very best
ow shrubs.

The Shrubs Illustrated Above

/. An ideal planting about a cottage door,

2. Persian lilac (Syringa persica).

3. Rose Acacia or Moss Locust (Robinia

hispida).

4. Philadelphus coronarius (Fragrant Gar-

land Syringa.)

5. Japanese Rose (Rosa Rugosa)

6. Golden Spirea (Spirea opulifolia aurea).

7. Golden Elder (Simbucus aurea) .

8. Philadelphus Gordonianus (Gordon's

Syringa) .

9. Allhea or Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus).
10. Tamarix Africana (Tamarisk).

[221

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

or small tree attaining 15 ft. Very picturesque with its finely
cut fern-like foliage. The crimson berries and brilliant colored
foilage are very attractive in autumn. Will grow in dry soil as
well as almost any other. Good for deep border planting or in-
dividual groups.

SAMBUCUS AUREA, Golden Elder. A golden leaved variety
of the common European Elder. Very attractive. Will grow
to 8 ft., but can be pruned back into a neat shrub any height.
Large clusters of white flowers in June or July, followed by black
berries in August. Very good for contrast in dark places of the
border.

SPIRAEA "ANTHONY WATERER." A very good variety of S
Bumalda, bearing flat clusters of bright pink flowers throughout
summer, starting in June. Height 2 ft. A dwarf shrub which
is very desirable for planting about the building.
SPIRAEA BILLAROII, Pink-Plumed Spirea. A shrub of rather

open habit, with small foliage. Vigorous and hardy, 0 ft. in height.
Flowers densely clustered at the end of long, slender branches; July
and August. Good border plant, showy and attractive. Splendid
also for cut flowers and interior decoration.

SPIRAEA OPULIFOLIA AUREA, Golden Spirea. A vigorous
growing shrub to 7 ft. with golden yellow foliage. Flowers white
in June. Good for contrast in deep colored borders.
SPIRAEA THUNBERGII, Thunberg's Spirea. Agraceful bush with
slightly drooping branches and narrow pale green foliage. Of
dwarf habit, rounded graceful form, growing to 4 ft. Flowers single
white, borne very early in spring, being the first Spirea to bloom.
Its neat habit makes it desirable for border fronts and around
buildings.

SPIRAEA VAN HOUTTEI. One of the best shrubs on the list
B4kt of all varieties of Spirea. Grows to 6 ft., bearing clusters of
small white flowers in May and June which almost entirely cover
the bush, giving it the appearance of a huge snowball from a distance.
Of graceful drooping habit and well adapted to grouping in front
of buildings or around entrances. Also a fine border plant. A
neat, elegant shrub that can not be too highly recommended.

SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS, Snowberry. A low growing
shrub to 3 ft. Flowers small, pink, followed by large, pure white
berries which remain on the plant late into winter, causing the
slender branches to bend with their load. Desirable for front of
border or around entrances.

Syringa-Lilac

COMMON PURPLE LILAC. Purple tints; slightly smaller flowers
and clusters than the budded varieties. A widely known shrub;
most common and indispensable species, equally adaptid to the
small lawn or the large estate. Height 6 ft.

COMMON WHITE LILAC. A white ftowered variety of the above
species, very similar. ' Height 6 ft. Claims introduction to America
by the Pilgrims, and with the revived interest in old-fashioned gardens,
it shares the popularity of the other lilacs.

GIANT TREE LILAC. A late blooming variety producing large
clusters of attractive white flowers after most other varieties are
past. Sometimes attains the height of 15 to 20 ft.
BELLE DE NANCY, Budded Lilac. Large double flowers of a
satiny rose color blending to white towards the center. An excellent
variety.

FRAU DAMMANN, Budded Lilac. Large, single white flowers
in immense clusters. A strong grower to 6 ft. Universally con-
sidered one of the best white lilacs cultivated.

HENRI SLADEK, Budded Lilac. Immense clusters of dark, red-
dish-purple flowers. One of the best. Originated in our nurseries
and named after one of our employees who first propagated it. An
improved variety of Ludwig Spaeth.

LUDWIG SPAETH, Budded Lilac.

Single flowers of large size. Of a dark.

purplish-red color. Among the finest on

the list. Very attractive and thoroughly

distinctive.

MADAME ABEL CHATENAY, Budded

Lilac. A creamy-white variety with large

double, very fragrant flowers. Without

doubt the finest white lilac.

MICHAEL BUCHNER, Budded Lilac.

A dwarf, but a vigorous grower. Flowers

very double, pale lilac color. Worthy of a

place in every lilac group.

PRESIDENT GREVY, Budded Lilac.

Large, individual double flowers of a very

beautiful, distinct blue color. The best blue.

MARIE LE GRAYE, Budded Lilac.

Large trusses of single pure white flowers

which are very fragrant. Very free grower

to 5 ft.

> '

A Choice List of Shrubs

11. A tista through, an entrance flanked with
Spirea.

13. President Grevy Lilac — 14 inches tall.

15. Crimson Spirea (Spirea Anthony Waterer)

14. White Flowering Bush Honeysuckle

(Lonicera).
Id. Bush Honeysuckle in Clumps.

16. A branch of Philadelphus coronarius.

17. Snowball (Viburnum, Opulus Sterilis).

15. Madame Abel Chatenay Lilac.

10. Aralia Penlaphylla ( Angelica tree) .

20. Snowberry (Symphoricarpus racemosus) .

231

PERSIAN
LAC, Syr

Persica.
clusters <
pliah-lilai
ers bor
June, on
der, are
branches
fragrant,
early flo
sort in
5 ft. hig]

ROUEN
LAC, S

Rathoma
A fine

blooming sort with large truss
beautiful reddish-purple flowers
good variety. Its narrow leav
different from those of any oth<
TAMARIX AFRICANA, Tai
A feathery, ight green foliagec
of upright habit, growing to 8
height. Flowers small, bright pink
in slender clusters; April or May.
ed to damp places or seashore pi;
Will give variety to the border.

LI-

iringa
Large
f pur

flow
le

si

14

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

mlllllllNNIINIIIIIIIIIIHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINIIIIIW

VIBURNUM DENTATUM, Arrowwood. A
native shrub with slender, smooth branches.
Flowers in June; creamy white, borne in
flat clusters, sometimes 6 in. in diameter and
followed by dark blue berries. Height 6 ft.
Suitable for damp places in the border;
succeeds well in shade.

VIBURNUM LANTANA, Wayfaring Tree.
An upright growing
shrub of compact
habit, to 10 ft. White
flowers in May, fol-
lowed by pink berries
which later turn red,
then black. Very
attractive fruit.
Good for tall border
planting.

VIBURNUM OPU-
LUS, High Bush
Cranberry. A showy
shrub bearing flat
clusters of pure white
flowers. The bright
red berries, resem-
bling the cranberry,
make it one of the
best red berried
shrubs for winter
effect. Height 8 ft.

Viburnum lantana —
with its misty appear-
ance and splendid
bloom.

VIBURNUM OPULUS STERILIS, Snow-
ball. A variety of the above, but much
more attractive, with its large, round heads
of pure white sterile flowers, which are so
familiar on Decoration Day. Makes a
fine specimen plant and is good in the border
where it attains the height of 10 or 12 ft.

VIBURNUM TOMENTOSUM PLICA-
TUM, Japanese Snowball. A free growing
shrub of spreading habit, often attaining
8 ft. in height. Flowers pure white, n June,
produced in large clusters.

the best and most popular of all hybrids of
this genus. We can recommend but few
other plants that will give such uniyersal
satisfaction as this and the other species of
Weigela; they are hardy and of easy culti-
vation.

YUCCA FILAMENTOSA, Adams Needle.
A hardy plant with broad pointed sword-
shaped foliage. Flowers are creamy white,
thickly set, on a tall stem, in June. Very
showy when in blossom. Good for planting
in front of border or in groups separately.

Paeonies

This favorite of the old fashioned garden,
which our grandmothers called the "Piney,"
is increasing in popularity each year. The
many new valuable varieties give an ever-
increasing interest to
7 their planting. The
largest blooms of
any of the hardy
garden flowers. Can
be planted in front
of the shrub border.
In full bloom Dec-
oration Day and are
grown for profit with
great success. Require
little care. Descrip-
tion of other hardy
flowers, page 19.

ASSORTED VARI-
ETIES. Our own se-
lection of many kinds.
The best varieties we
grow and repre-
senting the most
harmonious colors.

High Bush Cranberry

(Viburnum Opulus) — •

Valued for bloom and

red berries.

FESTIVA MAXIMA. Probably the largest

and most popular Paepny. Borne on long,

stiff stems; white, slightly suffused shell

pink; late.

EDULIS SUPERBA. Large, rose-pink,

fluffy bloom. A charming flower and one

of the earliest blooming.

EUGENE VERDIER. Broad, full flowers;

white, evenly tinted with shell pink. A

fine sort. Late.

Wisteria Sinensis

Admired for porches and pergolas', purple and
white bloom. An excellent climber and fast grower.

OFFICINALIS RUBRA. Rich, deep

crimson. Known as the "Decoration Day
Peony," because of its blooming season.
QUEEN VICTORIA. Magnificent white,
edged with pink. Faultless in form and
very popular.

FELIX CROUSSE. Large, round, per-
fectly double. Deep crimson, marked with
cardinal at base of petals. Late.

Edulis Suberba.

One of the leaders — •
very early.

WEIGELA ROSEA,

Rose Weigela. A

spreading shrub with

arching branches; large

tubular flowers in early

June, varying from

light to dark rosy-pink

color, freely borne on

the stout branches.

Height 6 ft. Leaves

dark green. Thrives

in any soil, but

prefers damp and

somewhat shaded

positions in a good garden soil. A delightful

shrub for massing about foundations when

kept pruned in. Useful as specimens, and

desirable for groups or masses.

WEIGELA CANDIDA, White Weigela. A
free-flowering, white variety of the preceding.
Strong, upright grower to 6 ft. Continues
to bloom throughout the summer.

WEIGELA H YBRIDA var. EVA RATHKE,

Red Flowering Weigela. A shrub to 4 ft.
with clusters of brilliant, carmine-red
flowers on erect branches in spring and
autumn. An attractive border plant; easily

Vines and Climbers

unit' tu HiUil tilt: viuea au as to luiiii a atjiiu i;uvciiug, aiiutLiiig UUL ail

sunlight; it is best to leave the other sides partly open. In other words,
' train your vines around the columns and across the top, thus making
| a frame with vines, and leaving an open space in the middle for the view.

Festiva maxima —

growing in our fields

— very late.

ASIATIC CREEPER, Ampelopsis Heterophylla. Hardy vine with

heart-shaped leaves and greenish-white flowers, in July, followed by

blue berries. Good on low walls or trellis.

AMERICAN IVY, Ampelopsis Quinquefolia. An excellent climber with

beautiful green, divided leaves which turn a bright crimson in autumn.

Fine for covering old tree trunks, trellises, stone walls, etc. A

rapid grower and perfectly hardy.

BOSTON IVY, Ampelopsis Veitchii. A

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ hardy vine with small, neat, compact foliage.
A familiar vine used extensively for covering
churches, stone or brick residences and walls.
Clings tightly to any support. A rapid
> «JB grower, but produces a lighter vine than the

preceding.

DUTCHMAN'S PIPE, Aristolochia Sipho.
ji^.r'* " A tall, rapid growing, twining vine, bearing

-Hi* curious pipe-shaped flowers of a purplish-

brown color. Leaves very large, affording
a dense shade. A fine porch climber.

BITTER SWEET, Celastris Scandens. A
vigorous growing native vine. Very at-
tractive in winter with its bright crimson
berries. Large leaves and yellow flowers.

CLEMATIS "HENRYI." A free bloom-
ing, creamy-white variety. Flowers large
and attractive. One of the best.

CLEMATIS "JACKMANNI.' A rich,
violet-purple flower of large size. A free
growing vine which blossoms abundantly.
Fine for trellis or porch.

Queen Victoria Paeony — worthy of its name.

Paeonies have been the favorite perennials for

three generations.

[24]

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

CLEMATIS "MADAME ANDRE." Large
beautiful crimson-red flowers throughout the
season. Vine a vigorous grower and much
desired as a trellis climber.

CLEMATIS PANICULATA GRANDI-
FLORA. A very popular variety with great
masses of small fragrant, white, star-shaped
flowers. A rapid and vigorous grower,
covering an arbor or trellis in a short time.
The feathery seeds are very attractive after
the leaves have fallen. A most desirable
climber.

HONEYSUCKLE, HALL'S JAPAN, Loni-
cera Halleana. A half evergreen vine re-
taining its foliage until late in winter.
Flowers white, turning to yellow as they grow

older. Good for covering low walis. Trained
on a fence, it makes a beautiful hedge.
TRUMPET HONEYSUCKLE, Lonicera
Sempervirens . A vigorous, rapid grower,
with bright red flowers. Attractive on walls.
TRUMPET CREEPER, Tecoma Radicans.
A robust native vine of twining habit.
Flowers trumpet-shaped and orange-colored.
Used quite often along low walls.
WISTERIA SINENSIS. A graceful -vine
of rapid growth. Flowers pea-shaped and
pale blue, in long clusters. A good porch
and arbor climber.

WISTARIA SINENSIS ALBA. Similar
to the preceding, but with white flowers. A
beautiful climber.

Hedges for Living Fences

THE use of wooden, wire or iron fences around the home is becoming a thing of the past.
These fences are expensive to keep in repair, and they are far from being things of
beauty. Is it not better to plant a hedge which will grow stronger, more beautiful
and more permanent every year instead of requiring additional repairs? Hedges have
appropriately been called "living fences." They serve as a protection from outside intrusion,
and at the same time are beautiful. Hedges can be used for marking boundary lines of
the your property where division is desired. How much prettier is this wall of solid rich
green than an ugly artificial looking fence! A hedge is usually made up of straight, hard lines.
In order to make it appear more naturalistic, a few groups of the same plant or other shrubs
can be planted in clumps at irregular intervals along the hedge and they will break up the
straight lines of the hedge.

BARBERRY, JAPANESE, Berberis Thun-
bergii. One of the hardiest and best hedge
plants. See description under shrubs.
PRIVET, IBOTA, Ligustrum Ibota. The
hardiest Privet. Excellent for hedges. Of
upright habit with narrow green leaves and
clusters of fragrant white flowers. Good for
massed planting.

PRIVET, CALIFORNIA, Ligustrum Ovali-
folium. The most familiar of hedge plants.
Flowers pure white in July. Foliage glossy

S'een. Will grow in city or at seashore,
an be pruned to any height. Excellent
hedge plant, but cannot rely on hardiness
north.

PRIVET, REGELS, Ligustrum Regelianum.
A variety of the preceding. Readily dis-
tinguished by the almost parallel slender
branches which slightly droop, giving the
plant a most graceful appearance. Fine for
border planting.

PRIVET, COMMON, Ligustrum Vulgare.
A half evergreen form with dark green
foliage and white flowers. June or July.
Leaves turn purplish in the fall. Excellent
for massing in the border.
PRIVET, AMOOR RIVER, NORTH,
Ligustrum Amurense. A shrub of upright
growth with shiny foliage and white flowers.
Hardier than the California Privet. An
excellent hedge plant. A good border plant
for massing when unpruned. Has proved
hardy in Maine, with the thermometer
registering 38 degrees below zero.
MOCK ORANGE, Philadelphia Coronarius.
An excellent high hedge to 10 ft. Used
extensively as a screen to shut out undesirable
views. Described more fully under shrubs.
SPIREA VAN HOUTTEI. The best 5 ft.
hedge plant. Slender, drooping branches.

Japanese Barberry

Heads the list of hardy hedge plants — it is con-
sidered an ideal hedge — red berries in Winter.

The Home Fruit Garden

The following is a select list of the best varie-
ties for home use. Each fruit is given in its
order of ripening — earliest ripening sorts first,
latest ripening sorts last:

Dwarf Apple. Liveland Raspberry,

Henry Clay, Wilson Red June, Grimes Gol-
den, Stark King David, Stark Delicious.

Crab Apple. Florence.

Dwarf Pear. Stark Seckel, Duchess,
Anjou, Triumph and Gold Nugget.

Cherry. Dyehouse, Stark Gold, Mont-
morency Stark, Suda Hardy.

Quince. Missouri Mammoth, Van Deman.

Apricot. Superb and Stella.

Peach. Red Bird Cling, June Elberta,
Eureka, Alton, Stark Early Elberta, J. H.
Hale, Sea Eagle, Krummel October, Mam-
moth Heath Cling.

Plum. Mammoth Gold, Early Gold,
America and Omaha.

Small fruits may be planted in a separate
part of the garden or they can be planted in
rows between the fruit trees.

American Ivy

A universal favorite

quick grower,

healthy.

A hedge of Spirea
Van Houttei grown
from Stark Bro's
stock. A magnificent
naturalistic hedge.

Boston Ivy

Beautiful on stone or brick.

The following are the proper distances for
planting of the different small fruits:

Grape Vines. 8 ft. apart; currant
and gooseberry, 4 ft; blackberry and rasp-
berry, 3 ft. apart in the row and rows 5
ft. wide

Rhubarb. 3 ft. apart.

Asparagus, 1 % ft. apart, rows 3 ft. wide.

California Privet

A standard hedge plant, one of a group
of Privets all of which are splendid
for hedges. Each has its peculiar value
but none are more popular than this.

25

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

The Rose Garden

The Rose is the nationa flower, and in all
sections, and under all conditions, it is grown
by careful, jealous hands, and its first blossoms
each season are eagerly awaited.
The artist has spread its glory on the can-
vass, the poet has sung of its beauty and its
sweetness. Youth, manhood, old age —
all peoples, in all walks of life, have pro-
claimed the Rose the "Queen of Flowers."
No flower can ever take the place of the
Rose with the American people.
They should be growing in great beds on
all home grounds. Roses will repay the
care given them by a wealth of sweetest,
brightest blossoms and bring pleasure to the
heart of their owners.

Stark Bro's Quality Roses

Rose growers have produced Rose varieties
by the thousands, and from this great list
we have selected the choicest ones. The
most beautifully colored, the most perfectly
formed, keeping in mind the fact that
strong growth, vigor and hardiness is neces-
sary. The kinds we offer are the best —
the choice from the Rose gardens of the
world and are grown according to the perfect
Stark growing method. They are prac-
tically all on their own roots. We have found
from experience that only a few varieties,
should be grown by the budding method. The
plants we offer are strong, field-grown stock,
which has had two years' growth in the
nursery. The small, light, weak-rooted
stock that is sent out at cheap bargain
prices, is a snare and a delusion — will never
give satisfaction to the customer and is
very hard to make live. On the other hand,
extra strong, heavily rooted, field-grown
plants, which are delivered to the customer
from our nursery in a dormant condition,
become quickly established, and make a
strong, thrifty growth the first season,
furnishing considerable bloom the same year
they are planted. Stark Bro's Roses are
not tender, weak plants, grown under glass.
On the contrary, they have had two years in
the nursery to become adapted to out-of-
doors conditions of heat and cold; they are
delivered to the customer with roots and
tops in moist, plump condition.

Walks in Rose Gardens

In the rose garden of the American home,
grass paths, or walks are preferable. They
are more in harmony with the surrounding
naturalistic planting than paths of artificial
material, such as gravel, crushed stone, etc.
However, the paths and walks can be made
to suit the convenience of the owner.

Rose Beds

The rose beds should be sunk one to two
inches below the level of the grass walks.
The rose requires a great deal of moisture

and by keeping the beds sunk below the level
of the walks it helps to preserve the moisture
that is in the soil. In past years the mistaken
idea that rose beds should be mounded high
above the surrounding grounds has been a
source of disappointment to the persons who
have tried to grow roses this way. In the
beds mounded high there is a greater loss of
moisture in the soil, the roses do not make
as good growth, nor do they bloom as well as
when the beds are slightly sunken. But
roses do not like "wet feet" — plant them in
well-drained soil

The rose bed should not be too wide. The
bed which contains two to four rows of roses
will be of sufficient width. By picking roses
from both sides of the flower bed all of the
roses should be reached without stepping off
of the turf walk. The beds should not be so
wide that it will be necessary to stand in the
soil in order to reach the roses.

Location and Soil For Roses

Practically every home has certain spots
where roses will thrive. Roses will succeed
in any average soil, although they respond
quickly and surprisingly to applications of
rich, black soil and well rotted manure, or
other fertilizer. If you have a real desire to
grow roses, you can do so and without a
great deal of trouble or expense.

Location of Rose Garden

Other things being equal, the location shel-
tered from the North winds is preferable for
the garden, thus a place located at the South
or Eastern side of the house will be best.
A planting of shrub borders will furnish
considerable protection. However, the ques-
tion of protection from the North is not of
such great importance if the individual rose
plants are given proper treatment before the
Winter season opens. A mounding up of
dirt and mulching will give the necessary
protection. For further information on
Winter protection, see page 27.

Trees near the garden are of no great dis-
advantage if they do not shade the garden
more than half of the day. However, it is
important to keep the tree roots separated
from the flower beds. The rose is a heavy
feeder and it will not do well if it has to share
the plant food with encroaching tree roots.
Bear in mind that the tree roots extend out
far from the trunk of the tree — at least as
far out as the spread of the tree. When the
rose beds are made, all tree roots should be
removed.

The garden can be surrounded by a
border planting of flowering shrubs, which
should be planted more or less irregularly in
outline. In front of the shrubs, hardy per-
ennials can be planted and then the formal
garden with its beds will become enclosed.

In the rose garden it is very often advisable
to plant a hedge entirely surrounding the
garden. The hardy Japanese Rose (Rosa
Rugosa) makes a splendid hedge and very
suitable for the rose garden, or any of the
other good hedge plants can be used.

A suggested outline of a rose garden — note the

width of beds and walks. Make your bed

arrangement very simple.

New Roses from Stark Bro's Great Rose Test Gardens

Many hundreds of roses that show great merit and promise are thoroughly tested

by our Rose Experts. If they meet with our high standard of requirements

they are then offered to Stark customers.

Fertilizing Roses

Sometimes the soils may be too heavy (too
much clay), in which case, it is often advis-
able to add a few loads of lighter loamy or
sandy soil. Ground limestone or air-slaked
lime will also be beneficial to the soil which
tends to be too heavy. A stimulant for the
rose is Nitrate of Soda, which can be applied
in very small quantities early in the season
when there is plenty of moisture in the ground.
This will result in strong wood growth. How-
ever, it is very concentrated and if it is applied
it should be in limited quantities. A small
handful is enough to each plant. Do not let
it come in direct contact with the plant or
it may burn it. It should be sprinkled on
the soil. Under "time to plant," we have
advised Spring planting for most roses. It
is a good plan, therefore, to start preparing
the rose beds the previous Fall or in early
Spring. The manure can be placed on the sur-
face of the beds and allowed to remain over
the Winter. The Spring rains will help dis-
solve the plant food and then later in the
Spring the beds can be spaded up and made
ready to receive the roses. Liquid manures
are also used with very good results; they
can be applied to the rose beds any time
during the growing season, although it will
be most effective in May and June. Liquid
manure can be made by suspending a burlap
sack containing a bushel of cow manure in
a barrel of water for several days This
solution can be applied direct to the rose
bed or slightly diluted. One to ^two quarts
applied to each plant about once a week
would be sufficient.

Soil and Drainage

The soil where the rose beds are located should be weli
drained; roses will not do well if the ground is wet and soggy.
Also, wet soil tends to become acid and no ornamental or
rose will do well in an acid soil. If the spot you have selected
for the rose garden is poorly drained and wet, it is a simple
matter to remedy. One good method of draining the flower
bed is to dig a trench about 2 or 2% feet deep and put in a
layer of broken stone (or other drainage material). This will
allow the surface water to drain off quickly. Also, very
wet soil may be drained by using a system of tiled drainage.
However, most soils require no special drainage.

Preparing the Beds

The preparation of the soil for the roses should be at
least two or three weeks ahead of planting time. If the soil
is in fairly good condition, very little treatment will be
necessary, except that it should be spaded deeply,
broken up and in fine, mellow condition. When spading
the soil it is always a good idea to spade in well rotted
manure. Hotted leaves are also good for this purpose. Of
commercial fertilizers, probably the best is ground bone,
but in applying all fertilizers and manures, keep in mind
that the fertilizer should be spaded in deep and this work
should be as far ahead of planting as possible so that fertilizer
and manure will have time to dissolve. Later on, after the
roses are planted, the top or surface applications of manure
:ind fertilizer can be made. In using manure in the flower
beds, bear in mind that the best kinds are from the cow
or horse stable. When spading up the ground the manure
or other fertilizer can be scattered on the surface of the
ground and then spaded in. Aim to spade the ground deeply
and to get the loose top soil underneath the lower soil. The-

[26]

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

How to Plant — Pruning — Winter Protection

.Vo. / shows rose bush planted too deep. No. 2 is planted just right. No. 3 illustrates proper

pruning immediately after planting. No. 4 shows dirt mounded up the following

Fall for protection against Winter injury.

roots of the roses will go down to considerable
depth, therefore the top rich soil and manure
should be at some depth under the surface of
the ground.

Laying Out the Beds

Of course it ia understood that the
roses should be kept in beds by themselves.
Do not try to mix roses and other flowering
plants in the same flower bed. The beds can
be laid out in any manner desired, but they
should not be too complicated. An arrange-
ment of simple rectangular beds, possibly a
circular bed will give most pleasing effects.
See diagram on page 26. Do not make the
beds in fancy scrolls, as beds of this kind are
not only unsatisfactory, but they are hard to
maintain in neat condition.

Winter Protection

Many of the roses, especially the Hybrid
Perpetual class are hardy enough to go
through the Winter without any protection
whatever; however, it is very little trouble to
furnish a moderate protection and it is
always safest to do this. Some of the more
tender sorts of the Tea and Hybrid Tea class
are not so hardy and should by all means be
protected. After a frost or two has occured
in the Fall to ripen up the tops of the
rose bushes, the soil should be mounded up
and packed in about the base of the bush to
a height of 6 or 8 inches. In order to make
it easier to apply the mulch, the rose bushes
can be headed back to within one foot of the
ground. See diagram on this page. Assum-
ing that the dirt had been mounded up about
the base of the bush, the next step is to apply
a coating of rough manure on the surface of
the beds. Then on top of this, a layer of
dead leaves can be placed, or in case it is not
convenient to secure dead leaves, straw or
corn fodder can be used for this purpose.
Weight the leaves or straw down so it will
not blow away.

IMPORTANT. Do not make the covering
or mulch too thick and heavy or it will
smother out and kill the roses. When the
Spring begins to open up, the mulch can be
removed gradually from day to day, then the
tops headed in closer, as described in the
•paragraph on pruning. It is not advisable
to attempt to protect the climbing roses
further than mounding up the earth about
10 or 12 inches about the base of the plant.
Practically all of the climbing roses are hardy
enough to take care of themselves without
protection.

Time to Plant Roses

As a general rule., roses should be planted
in the Spring. This applies to the Central-
West and the Northern states. In the South,
Fall planting is to be preferred, also there are
many of the hardier climbers, Rugosa type,
and some of the Hybrid Perpetuals, which
can be planted very successfully in the Fall,
even in the colder climates. However, as a
general rule, it is safest to plant in the early
Spring. Fall planting of hardy shrubs and
most shade trees gives splendid results.

Receiving the Plants

When stock is received from the nursery,
it should be unpacked and all packing material
shaken out from the roots, but be sure that
your beds are ready to receive the plant
before you unpack. Do not expose the roots
of the plants to sun, wind or frost. While
you are planting one bush, keep the roots of

the other plants covered up with a wet sack
or cloth. Sometimes when the plants are
delayed in transit, they may become some-
what dried and shrivelled, in which case the
roots can be dipped in thin mud just before
planting, and in extreme cases it may be
advisable to bury the plants in moist earth
for two or three days before planting. This
will give them an opportunity to become
plump before being set out.

Pruning the Roots

Give each plant a careful pruning with a
sharp knife, cutting off all broken or bruised
roots. The holes to receive the plants should
be dug large and deep so that the roots can
be spread out. When planting, work the
soil in well around the roots and spread the
roots out so that they will be in their natural
position. Do not plant the rose bush too
deep nor too shallow. By examining the
plant carefully, you will easily recognize the
depth at which the plant stood in the nursery
row, as all of that portion of the plant which
was above the ground in the nursery will be
more or less green, while the portion that was
underground will be brownish or dirt colored.
The following is a safe rule: Plant the rose
bush one to two inches deeper than it stood
in the nursery. See diagram on this page.

Distance of Planting

The distance of planting depends on the
type of rose. The strong Hybrid Perpetual
roses should be planted about 2)^ or 3 feet
apart. Teas and Hybrid Teas can be planted
about 2 feet apart while the Dwarf Polyantha,
such as Baby Rambler, Clothilde Soupert,
Jessie, etc., can be planted as close as a foot
to 18 inches apart. Climbing roses can be
planted as close as is required to cover the
desired space.

Pruning the Tops

Immediately after planting
the roses, use a sharp knife
to prune back the tops. As
the plant comes from the
nursery, the top will be any-
where from 1 to 2^ feet

in height. Most of this top should be cut off
immediately after planting, each cane being
headed in so that there are only three or
four buds left on the cane. See diagram,
this page. In cutting back, prune about a
quarter of an inch above a bud which points
out from the center of the bush. This will
tend to make the rose bush spreading instead
of tall and spindly. If there are too many
canes on the bush some of them should bo
cut out entirely, always removing the weaker
branches. For further details, see paragraph
on Pruning on following page.

After the rose is planted it is advisable to
mound the dirt up to a height of 3 or 4 inches
about the canes. This moist earth will keep
the canes plump until they get started to
growing. Later in the Spring, after they
start growing, the mound about the plant
can be leveled down.

After the roses have been set out, they
should be frequently cultivated or hoed, at
least once or twice a week. Whenever it
rains the surface soil will pack down and when
it dries will be hard, therefore, cultivate soon
after each rain. This is important, as fre-
quent cultivation maintains a dust mulch,
which prevents the evaporation of the mois-
ture in the soil.

Planting

Pack the soil in tight around the roots;
leave no air pockets. A lack of firming the
soil is often responsible for the failure of rose
bushes to live. After the hole has been half
filled with earth, pour in one or two buckets
of water and allow it to settle. Then fill up
the rest of the hole with dirt. The soil may
be moist enough not to require any water,
but some water will do no harm and may be
a great help in assisting the plant to get es-
tablished quickly. The top two or three
inches of the soil should not be tramped,
but should be put in loose.

Rose Enemies

As is the case of all other growing plants,
the rose has certain enemies; however, by
careful watching and a little attention, the
rose enemies can be kept well under control,
and will give very little trouble.

Mildew on Rose Foliage

In wet seasons a powdery white mildew may
get on foliage and young buds. This is con-
trolled by spraying or sprinkling with a
solution of Potassium Sulphide, which can be
procured from your local drug store. Use
one ounce of Potassium Sulphide to two
gallons of water. The solution should be
applied when the first signs of mildew appear
and then applied at intervals of a week or
ten days until it is controlled.

Another material that will control the mil-

Photoftraph, Underwood & Underwood, N. Y

net for everybody — Madame Caroline Testout, the official variety
nf The Rose Festival of Portland, Oregon. Succeeds everywhere.

Dorothy Perkins

Makes a charming hedge

when trained on a fr.ncv
dew is Bordeaux Mixture.
Also the simple method of
dusting flowers of sulphur
upon the foliage is effective
in preventing mildew. This
should be applied early in
the morning when the dew
will assist in holding it on
the foliage.

Leaf-Eating Insects

Sometimes certain in-
sects eat the foliage of the
rose. The Rose Slug, which
is a slimy snail-like insect,
eats the green out of the

[27]

Secrets of Ornamental Planting

Kaiser in
\.ufiusta Victoria

Gruxx an Te-plitz

Clio

Eugene Fursl

Clolilde Son pert

leaves, leaving the veined net-work or leaf-
skeleton. The Rose Beetle also eats the
foliage. These can be controlled by spraying
with Arsenate of Lead at the rate of one
pound of Arsenate of Lead to 12 gallons of
water. This should be applied as soon as
the work of the insect is noted. Powdered
White Hellebore dusted on the foliage will
also control the Rose Slug. Be sure to get
fresh Hellebore from your drug store. When
it turns yellow, it loses strength. Also, the
Rose Beetle can be controlled simply by
hand picking and dropping in a pan of Kero-
sene, which will immediately kill the insects.
Plant Lice or Aphis sometimes attack
tender shoots of the rose, but they are easy
to control by dipping the shoot in a solution
of NICOTINE or ordinary soap (one pound
of soap to 6 gallons of water). These solu-
tions can also be sprayed on the plants if
desired.

A Record of the Rose Garden

There are so many valuable and interesting
new varieties of roses that are being originated
every year that it will be desirable to keep a
record of all varieties which are planted in
each garden. A small diagram of each bed
can be made and in addition, the roses may
be labeled with some sort of metal label
which will not be affected by the weather.

After-Care of Roses

After the rose bushes are planted, they
will not require much attention with the
exception of frequent cultivation and in dry
seasons, water will be very beneficial. If
the rose bushes tend to grow too upright, the
terminal bud can be pinched back and this
will make the canes branch out.

Pruning Roses

On page 2V we have already explained the
method of pruning both the roots and tops
at planting time.

The following Fall after planting the tops
can be cut back to within a foot of the ground
to make it more convenient for adding the
mulch as a winter protection.

Pruning is very important for success in
rose growing. As a general rule, the rose
bush should be pruned heavily (of course the
climbing roses and ramblers wiil require very
little if any pruning, except cutting out the
dead wood and weaker branches — climbers
take care of themselves). After the first
season's growth the plant should be pruned
the following Spring. Head it back to within
8 or 10 inches of the ground, cutting out the
weak canes and leaving only the stronger
canes to develop. Bear in mind that severe
pruning tends to make stronger growth.
Therefore, some of the weaker growing kinds
require the most severe pruning. Also, severe
pruning tends to make the flowers larger.
As we have already explained, the canes
should be cut back to within a quarter of an
inch from a bud that points outward from
the middle of the bush. This makes the
branches spread.

Of course, all dead wood should be removed.
The number of canes that should be left should
range from 4 to 8. Of course, wherever the
tops had been injured by winter weather,
they should be cut back to good, live wood.
Bear in mind the general rule that very
vigorous growing kinds will not require as
severe pruning as the weak growers; Rosa
Rugosa (Japanese Rose) requires very little
pruning. It is considered more from its
value as a shrub rather than flowers.

Hardy Garden Roses

Roses— The Several Classes

(Climbing Roses — see page 30.)
With the great advance in improved vari-
eties of roses we now have roses which bloom
from early Spring to Fall of every shade and
color imaginable and with delightful fragrance
and yet these wonderful new roses are thrifty
growers and hardy in most severe climates.
When you plant a rose garden, you have a
relatively permanent planting — bushes which
will grow stronger year after year and will
fill the home with beautiful fragrant roses
throughout the Spring and Summer and until
late Fall. Because of its permanency, a rose
garden is more desirable than a flower garden
made up entirely of plants which die out in
the winter and require replacing the next
Spring with additional trouble and expense.
There are thousands of roses, but after
thorough testing, our Rose Experts have
selected the following list as the best. Follow-
ing the name of each variety is given the
initials, which indicate the class to which it be-
longs. Note following abbreviations for rose
classes: H p.— Hybrid Perpetual.

H. R. — Hybrid Rugosa.
R. — Rugosa or Japanese.

H. T.— Hybrid Tea.

H. C. — Hardy Climber.
T.— Tea.

Poly. — Polyantha or Baby Ramblers

Moss — Moss.

ANNA DE DIESBACH ( H. P.) An old and
well-known variety of grandmother's garden.
Flowers large, full and of bright pink.
BABY RAMBLER (Poly.) (Mad. Norbert
Levavasseur.) A dwarf bushy plant with large,
compact clusters of bright crimson flowers,
borne in profusion. A hardy", vigorous, con-
tinuous bloomer. Fine for edging around
taller growing varieties. It is also used as a
pot plant for indoor culture and hedges.
BURBANK (China). Free blooming with
cherry-rose colored flowers. A good bedder.
CATHERINE ZEIMET (Poly.) Flowers
pure white in immense clusters. Fragrant.
All the characteristics of the Baby Rambler
type. Good for edging.

CLIO ( H. P.) A vigorous grower. Flowers
large, globular, "flesh color shaded to pink in
center. A free bloomer. Very good as a
garden variety.

CLOTHILDE SOUPERT (Poly.) One of
the very best bedders. A familiar ivorv-white

*

Maman
Cachet

Madame Plantier

[28]

General Jaqueminot Baby Rambler

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

iniiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiNiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin^

variety shaded pink towards the center.
Excellent for borders. Too much can hardly
be said of blossoming qualities of this well-
known dwarf. Truly a magnificient rose.
CONRAD F. MEYER ( H. R.) Beautiful
large flowers of a clear silvery rose color.
Very vigorous, hardy and fragrant. A hybrid
rugosa. Often used for hedge. Ever-blooming.
ERNA TESCHENDORF (Poly.) A dwarf
free flowering variety. Red flowers slightly
larger and darker than. Baby Rambler. Very
pleasing results can be obtained by placing
a border of this variety around the taller
growing sorts. Dwarf rose hedges are popular.
EUGENE FURST. (H. P.) A large full rose
of a deep red color. Its distinct characters
make this a most valuable rose for the garden
It should be included in every collection.
GEN. JACQUEMINOT ( H . P.) An old
favorite. A large full flower of crimson-
scarlet color. A fine garden variety. It
does well with little care and succeeds under
various conditions.

GLOIRE LYONNAISE ( H. P.) A free
blooming, almost thornless hybrid of pale
lemon color. Nearest yellow of the Hybrid
Perpetuals. A good bedding or garden variety
GEN. McARTHUR ( H. T.) A splendid
garden rose of fine shape. Brilliant crimson
scarlet color. A good bedding sort.
GRUSS an TEPLITZ (China) . An excellent
bedding variety with clusters of semi-double
fragrant flowers of a bright red color which
later change to a velvety-crimson. It is sel-
dom without flowers — a flashing red from
Spring till Fall.

HELEN GOULD ( H. T.) A free grower
with bright red flowers. Good bloomer. A
fine garden variety and should be planted
extensively where a variety of free flowering
nature is the prime consideration.
HERMOSA (China). A profusion of bright
pink, very double, fragrant flowers borne in
clusters throughout the season. A well-
known variety used extensively as a bedder.
HUGH DICKSON ( H. P.) Vigorous grow-
ing, perpetual bloomer. Free flowering and
fragrant. Color brilliant crimson. Large
size and good form. An excellent variety.
J. B. CLARK (H. P.) A vigorous grower
producing large beautiful flowers of a deep
scarlet color shaded blackish-crimson.
JESSIE (Poly.) A new Baby Rambler.
Good for edging or pot culture. Large clus-
ter of bright crimson flowers. Shows to
best advantage when planted as a border.
JONKHEER J. L. MOCK (H. T.) Flow-
ers large, full, fragrant, borne on stout, erect
stems. Color beautiful soft pink inside and
carmine outside. A good cut-flower variety.
It is a vigorous grower and requires only a
slight mulching during the winter months.
KAISERIN A. VICTORIA (H. T.) A dis-
tinct variety with white flowers shaded lemon.
Free bloomer, full and fragrant. Vigorous.

Jonkeer
J. L. Mock

KILLARNEY ( H. T.) Large buds and
flowers of a deep sea shell pink color. Fine
for forcing and cut-flowers. A free bloomer.
Deserves a prominent place in every garden.
KILLARNEY WHITE ( H . T.) A grand
white forcing rose. Sport from Killarney but
more double. Fine in bud or flower. Planted
extensively for cut flowers in the garden and
forced for the commercial trade.
LA FRANCE (H. T.) A large, full flower
of a silvery pink color and fragrant. A free
bloomer from Spring until frost.
LADY ASHTON ( H. T.) Free flowering,
large, and of fine form. Long pointed buds.
Soft, clear pink color.

MADAME CAROLINE TESTOUT ( H. T.)
Of sturdy habit and free flowering. Flowers
silvery rose with deeper center. One of the
best Hybrid Teas.

MADAME JULES GROLEZ ( H . T.) Free
flowering and attractive. Well formed flowers
of a deep satiny pink color. A good bedder.
MADAME PLANTIER ( H. P.) Pure white
flowers of medium size produced abundantly
early in the season. Extremely hardy. Valu-
able Decoration Day variety. Often known
as the Cemetery Rose and as it requires
little care is a very suitable variety for this
sort of planting.

MAGNA CHARTA ( H. P.) Extra large,
full flowers of a bright rosy pink color.
Double, good form and fragrant. A hardy
strong grower adapted to garden planting.
MAMAN COCHET (T.) A most valuable,
beautiful rose. One of the best grown. Large
and full. Long pointed buds. Color rich
coral-pink. A good cut flower and bedding
variety. Delightfully fragant, blooms all
summer.

MRS. AARON WARD. ( H. T.) Coppery-
orange color. Very beautiful. Pinkish-fawn
when full open. Fine for forcing and used
extensively by commercial florists.
MARSHALL P. WILDER. ( H. P.) Large,
full, well-formed. Deep rich red, fragrant.
MRS. B. R. CANT (T.) Sweet scented
flowers of deep rose color. Free flowering and
attractive in autumn. Good garden variety.
Called Red Maman Cochet
MRS. JOHN LAING ( H . P.) A profusion
of large bright pink flowers. Perfectly hardy.
Full and double. An excellent variety.
NOVA ZEMBLA ( H. R.) Large double
white flowers with a pleasing pink blush.
A sport of C. F. Meyers. Fine bedder.
ORLEANS (Poly.) A geranium-red variety
of the Baby Rambler type. Free bloomer and
splendid keeping qualities. A favorite.
PAUL NEYRON ( H. P.) Immense flowers
of a deep rose color. The large well-formed
buds on the stout stems are very desirable
for cutting. Stems nearly thornless.
PERSIAN YELLOW (Austrian.) A familiar
rose of grandmother's garden. Clusters of
double yellow flowers in early spring.
PINK MOSS (M.) An excellent pink with
bsautiful moss covered buds and branches.
Blooms retain their beauty quite a long while.
PRESIDENT TAFT ( H. T.) A fine pink
rose. Vigorous, good size and form; fragrant.
PRINCE C DE. ROHAN ( H. P.) Full,
dark, veivety crimson maroon variety.
RADIANCE ( H.T.) A constant bloomer with
brilliant rosy carmine flowers. Large size,

Radiance

Killarney

Wm. R Smith

[29]

Stark Bro's — Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen — Louisiana, Mo.

: Ill IB Nil :,;:.: Hill I II :t : Illlllllll Illll 111

i: ••..:' a ' '• : '

full and fragrant. An excellent rose. It has
the qualifications of a cut-flower, or bedder.
RED MOSS (M.) A beautiful old-time red
rose with mossy buds and stem. A favorite in
the informal garden.

RHEA REID ( H. T.) A new red forcing
rose, also a good garden variety. Large
double rich red flowers of exceptional beauty.
ROSA RUGOSA ALBA (R.), White Japan-
ese Rose. A white form of Rosa Rugosa.
ROSA RUGOSA (R.) A beautiful single red
rose from Japan.
Foliage dark green
and crumpled. Ex-
tensively used as
shrubbery.
SIR THOMAS
LIPTON. (H. R.}
Best pure white

Baltimore Belle — Asplen-

iliil climber for arches,

walls and porches.

Thousand Beauties
( 1'ausendschoen) — a
new climber that has
created a sensation.

rugosa rose. Beau-
tiful foliage, conti-
nual bloomer and
vigorous. Double.
SNOW QUEEN
( H. P. ) Often
called White Amer-
ican Beauty. An

excellent pure white rose, probably the very
best white. Very hardy and vigorous. A
profusion of pure white flowers of large size.
SUNBURST (H.T.) an excellent forcer. Long
pointed buds of coppery-orange color chang-
ing to golden yellow when full.
ULRICH BRUNNER ( H. P.) A fine
cherry-red rose of immense size. A seedling
of Paul Neyron. Of fine form and fragrant.
The flowers are supported on long stiff stems
which makes this a desirable cut-flower.
WHITE COCHET(T.) A large fragrant hardy
rose of pure white color with outer petals
tipped pink in autumn.

WM. R. SMITH (T.) Rose pink flowers with
beautiful flesh tints. A vigorous grower,
large and full. A good bedder. Deserves a
place in every garden. None more beautiful.

Tree or Standard Roses

These are grafted on hardy rose stalks
about four or five feet from the ground. We
offer three varieties: Snow Queen (white),
Gruss an Teplitz (red), 3. J. L. Mock (pink).

Climbiny

/I merican

Beauty

Hardy Climbing Roses

Because of graceful growth, profusion of
beautiful blossoms, vigor and extreme hardi-
ness, the popularity of the hardy climbers is
greater than ever before. (We list only the
hardy varieties.) They present a magnificent
sight with their billowy masses of roses when
trained on porches, arbors, arches or any
other support. Even the unattractive arti-
ficial fence can be changed into a graceful
rose hedge by planting some of the many
beautiful climbers.

AMERICAN PILLAR ( H. C.) A popular
large single variety. Color deep pink with
yellow stamens in the center. Very floriferous,
vigorous and hardy. The flowers are some
times three or four inches across. They last
for a long while, and are followed by
brilliant red berries.

BALTIMORE BELLE ( H. C.) This is a
well-known old favorite. The flowers are
white tinted with pink. It is a variety that
withstands winter well and is an excellent
climber. Succeeds without care.
CHRISTINE WRIGHT ( H . C.) A new
rose of lasting quality. Bright clear pink and
double.

CRIMSON RAMBLER ( H. C.) A variety
noted for it profuse clusters of bright crimson,
double flowers. A vigorous growing climber,
the shoots often growing to 8 feet in height
during one season. It is well known and will
survive in a variety of conditions.

CLIMBING BABY RAMBLER ( H. C.)

Miss Messman. A climbing, everbloomLng
form of the Baby Rambler type. The same
color, vigorous, and deserving of a place on
every porch, trellis or arch.
CLIMBING AMERICAN BEAUTY ( H. C.)
A hybrid of American Beauty with all its
good qualities. Flowers large, deep pink and
fragrant. Vigorous and very profuse bloomer.
Excellent for porch, pergola, etc.
DOROTHY PERKINS (H. C.) Immense
clusters of beautiful double pink, fragrant
flowers. Perfectly hardy and a vigorous
grower. Can be used to advantage as a
porch climber or on the trellis. Heavy growth
of foliage and many thousands of perfectly
formed flowers.

DR. W. VAN FLEET ( H. C.) A very rapid
growing climber. Deep flesh color. Flowers
full and double on long stems. Pointed buds.

EVER-BLOOMING CRIMSON RAM-
BLER (H. C.) A magnificent rose. Similar
in every respect to Crimson Rambler, but
having an extended blossoming season.
EXCELSA (H. C.) Red Dorothy Perkins.
An excellent brilliant-crimson climber. Foli-
age glossy. Best of the crimson ramblers.
HIAWATHA (H. C.) Large clusters of
single brilliant scarlet flowers with yellow
stamens in the center.

LADY GAY ( H. C.) A vigorous, very
floriferous variety with rose-pink flowers.
QUEEN OF PRAIRIE ( H. C.) An old
familiar standby; red climbing rose. Ex-
tremely hardy. Does well on arbor, porch or
trellis and withstands severe conditions.
RUBIN (H. C.) A hardy climber some-
what resembling Crimson Rambler, but with
larger, more double and deeper colored flowers.
THOUSAND BEAUTIES
(H. C.), Tausendschoen. A
rapid growing climber. Flow-
ers pink deepening to rosy
carmine, in clusters. Nearly
thornless.

TRIER ( H. C. ) A most
beautiful rambler with large
clusters of creamy white
semi-double flowers. The
open center is filled with
numerous bright yellow an-
thers which give to
the rose a distinct
vellow color from
a distance. A fav-
orite surpassing
Yellow Rambler of
which it is a seed-
ing.

WHITE DORO-
THY PERKINS
(H.C.) A white
flowering sport of
the well - known
DorothyPerkins.

Dorothy Perkins

Excelsa

Climbing Baby
Rambler

Trier

Stark Bro's New Free Landscaping Service
— and Free Planting Plans

When you plant a tree or shrub be sure that it is placed just where
it belongs, and that it will produce the proper landscape effect. You
can make your grounds beautiful and attractive — no matter what
the size — if the proper shrubs, trees and plants are selected and
arranged according to a correctly prepared plan.

Stark Bro's Landscape Architects
Know Your Requirements

Each one of our trained Landscape Architects knows, when he is
told the size of your grounds, the location of your house, out build-
ings, walks, etc., just what is required to make the house and sur-
roundings show to best advantage. He prepares plans every day for
grounds of all sizes and shapes. That is his business, his calling, and
naturally his judgment, his advice, would be valuable to you. Why
not take advantage of this new free offer of service and free plans?

Beautify Your Home Grounds
at Small Expense

Stark Bro's have perfected a plan to give to every man and woman,
who is interested in beautifying the home, the free service of one
of our Landscape Architects, and to co-operate with you in improv-
ing your grounds. Give. us your ideas and desires, and tell us just
what kind of trees and shrubs you prefer. We will take your sug-
gestions and adapt them to the design in accordance with the best
principles of landscape gardening. All we ask you to do is to send
us a rough sketch of your grounds, showing the size of your lot
— no matter if it is only 30 feet wide. Give the location of out
buildings, fences, trees, walks, etc. Our Landscape Man will study

it carefully, prepare a blue print
planting plan embodying up-to-
the-minute ideas in Landscape
Architecture, showing just what
shrubs, vines, trees and plants to
use and where to plant them.

Lafayette, Ga.. Oct. 25th. 1915.
MESSRS. STARK BRO'S.
Louisiana, Mo.

Dear Sirs: Enclosed you will find a very rude
'Sketch outline — it at least gives the proportion — of

- recently completed bungalow, and of the lawn
•surrounding it. We wish to take advantage of
your very kind and generous offer to draw free
plans for the lawn. While ours is small and very
modest, we are all the more anxious it should be
•treated in just the right way. The lot is perfectly
bare of shade trees, shrubs or flowers. In fact,

e arc- just preparing to have it sown to grass seed.

We have quite a large lot in the rear, which we

e planning to devote to flower and kitchen
gardens, a vineyard, small fruits, nuts, etc.

We have received orders from you, and have
been very much pleased. Any suggestions you

as make will be gladly received.

Very truly,
(Signed) MRS. A. S. SPARKS.

P. S. — Please mail to my new address your new
free book, "Secrets of Ornamental Planting."

Ames, Iowa, April 1, 1915.
STARK BRO'S,

Louisiana, Mo

Gentlemen: Some time ago I received from you
booklet entitled "Landscaping Simplified." I
ave just been able to go through it and I am de-
jhtod with the good sound principles of land-
cape design and the proper arrangement of shrub-
~ry that you advocate in it

Your pictures have been well selected to bring
hesc principles out with effect.

Very truly,

(Signed) FRANK H. CULLEY.
Prof, of Landscape Gardening,
Iowa State College.

Columbia, Mo .Sept. 22, 1915.
TARK BRO'S.

Louisiana. Mo.

Gentlemen: It gives me pleasure to commend
»ou on the stock which you furnished me dur-
ing last season. I found the size and condition
of ornamental plants very satisfactory, and will
be glad to have your estimates on my orders for
the coming season.

Cordially yours,
(Signed) H. F. MAJOR,

Landscape Architect.

Costs Only Two Cents

No charge whatever is made for
this service, and you are under no
obligation to spend a cent with us.
We will, however, include with the
blue print a list of stock selected by our
Landscape Experts and show you what it
will cost to plant your grounds exactly as
the Architect has outlined. It will sur-
prise you how small the cost will be.

Right now, while your mind is. on the
subject, prepare the rough sketch as out-
lined on page 5. It won't take over five
minutes of your time. Mail it to us today.
The cost to you is only two cents — the
price of a postage stamp Mail your
sketch early, so our Landscape Architects
will have sufficient time to give careful
attention to your design.

Send us the sketch today.

Stark Landscape Plans

Top plan shows outline of planting with the
key numbers which correspond to numbers and
names of plants on Stark Bro's estimate blank
that goes with each plan. This is a suburban
home. The planting is unusually moderate in
cost.

The middle plan illustrates the great possi-
bilities on a small city lot. Note the Rose
Garden.

The lower plan shows a large country home
with a beautiful naturalistic planting. Stark
Bro's Landscape Architects plan all xi;f.« anil
kinds of homes.

Stark Bro's — Louisiana, Mo.

Landscape Architects and Ornamental Nurserymen

alth Proas, Chicago

Americas

foremost
Growers/

Oftiamenfals

1516-1916

"•*

I

StarkBro's

Landscape Architects

and Ornamental

Nurserymen

louisianaNJ

'*£&*

V'Jf'vVfc;

.

Photomount
Pamphlet

Binder
Gaylord Bros.

Makers
Syracuse, N. Y.

PAT. JAN 21, 1908

mm

526799

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY