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| THE SEEDING AND
PRESERVATION
| OF GOLF LINKS

Pew THORBURN & CO.

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NEW YORK
J. M. THORBURN & CO.

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{LIBRARY of CONGRESS! Ree ons ib
Two Copies Hecewes fo qe
MAR 16 1908 psy : bbs

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COPYRIGHT, 1908
By J. M. THORBURN & CO.

Introduction

PHE preparation of the following pages
was suggested by the frequent ap-
plications received from golf clubs
for information as to the seeding of
their grounds. Their aim is to
‘answer the questions that present
themselves to greens committees in connection
with the formation of new courses, and the main-
tenance of established ones. These questions are
assuming greater importance every year, the con-
stantly improving condition of the older and
more favorably situated links raising the stan-
dard of what a course ought to be, and the prac-
tice of intervisiting keeping that standard con-
stantly in view. Every club is anxious to have for
visiting players, especially during the open tour-
naments, as fine a course as they are accustomed
to, and every chairman of greens committee feels
the spur of criticisms made by members of his own
club on their return from visiting a better course,
so that the ideal links will always be, for most
elubs, only an aspiration; and it is easier to point
out the inevitableness of this state of things than
to provide a cure for it. The only approach
to a remedy, indeed, in our varied and trying

3

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

climate, 18 constant care and attention, intelli-
gently directed.

These incentives to the improvement of the
grounds have assured the future of golf in
America, and those gentlemen who have assumed
the burdens of the work have done more for the
cause of the game than they are generally credited
with. For to the majority of its votaries the
eharm of golf will always include the freshness
of the country air, and the exhilaration of walking
on a green elastic turf, untiring to the foot and
pleasing to the eye.

Important !

Too much stress cannot be laid on the import-
ance of securing the best seed.

- It must be remembered that there are many
grades of the various sorts offered for sale. The
best is none too good.

We have for many years made a specialty of
grass seed, and we import and deal in the highest
grades only, so that those who entrust their orders
to us can have the assurance that they will re-
ceive the very best the market affords.

Llurf-forming Grasses

HE first condition of success in securing a
good golf course is a due recognition of
the relation between soil, situation and

climate on the one hand, and the different varie-
ties of grasses on the other. As every grass has
its own peculiar habit and habitat, the whole in-
quiry resolves itself into two questions: First,
what varieties are suitable for golf links; and,
second, which of these are, at the same time,
adapted to the peculiar soil and situation under
consideration?

The first question is easily disposed of, as it
is obvious that all turf-forming varieties are
suitable, without regard to their particular shade
of color or fineness of texture. These niceties
will be considered separately in connection with
the putting-greens. ‘‘Bunch grasses,’’ that is,
grasses that grow, like Orchard Grass, in tussocks
or detached bunches, are excluded, and only those
of a prostrate habit of growth, or with creeping,
interlacing roots, are admissible. The following
list includes all the distinctive and longest lasting
of these, and the answer to the second question is
supplied by our account of the conditions under
which they thrive.

i)

SEEDING AND: PRESERVATION

AGROSTIS CANINA (Rhode Island Bent Grass). Re-
sembles Red Top (A. vulgaris, described below), put is of
dwarfer habit, with shorter and narrower leaves. It makes
a beautiful, close, fine turf, and is one of the very best
grasses for lawns. It adapts itself to almost any soil, rich
and moist, or dry, sandy and sterile. It is a native of
Europe, but has been cultivated in our Eastern States for
many years, being valuable for permanent pastures. The
meadows, however, from which it has been saved here have
of late run largely into the freer seeding Red Top, so that
we now import it from Europe, where it has been more
carefully cultivated. Fifty to 60 pounds of seed to the acre
is recommended for lawns.

AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA (Creeping Bent, or Fiorin).
The distinctive feature of this species is, as the name implies,
its compact, creeping, rooting stems. It prefers low bottom
lands, especially if they are somewhat sandy. It is of rapid
growth and spreading habit, and the stoloniferous roots
form a strong, enduring turf, that is positively improved
by constant trampling. Being of fine texture, it is one of
the most valuable of our lawn grasses. If sown alone,
50 pounds to the acre should be used.

AGROSTIS VULGARIS (Red Top; Herd’s Grass). A
very hardy native perennial grass, succeeding best on
moist land. It accommodates itself to a variety of soils,
however, even to quite dry situations, and stands our hot
climate admirably. It is, perhaps, the most permanent grass
we have, and it enters largely into the composition of our
best natural pastures. It remains green for the greater
part of the year, and its long, trailing stems form a very
close, matting turf, that is not affected by trampling. It
grows well as far south as Tennessee. Of the absolutely
clean or ‘‘fancy’’ seed, 30 pounds to the acre is sufficient.

ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS (Meadow Foxtail). One of
the best permanent pasture-grasses for rich, moist lands.
Its chief characteristics for our purpose are its extreme

6

OF GOLF LINKS

earliness and its faculty of standing high summer heats
without burning. Although it prefers moist, low grounds,
it accepts drier situations, and makes an earlier spring
verdure than any other variety. It should be sown only
in connection with other grasses, 4 or 5 pounds to the acre.

CYNODON DACTYLON (Bermuda Grass). Decidedly
the most valuable grass for southern golf links. It is of
dwarf habit, with long creeping stems, rooting at the joints
and covering the ground with a matting of fine turf, which
no amount of trampling will impair. As it cannot endure
frost, it is of no value north of Virginia. It thrives in the
poorest and sandiest soil, and resists extreme drought and
the most intense tropical heat. It should be sown at the
rate of 20 pounds to the acre.

CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS (Crested Dog’s tail). <A sto-
loniferous perennial forming a smooth, compact and lasting
turf. It thrives best on rich, moist land, but it can accom-
modate itself to almost any soil. Its roots penetrate deeply
into the ground, which enables it to stand severe droughts.
It is, on this account, valuable for hilly situations. The tex-
ture of its turf is well adapted for putting-greens. If sown
alone, 40 pounds to the acre is none too much, but it is
recommended only in mixture with other sorts.

FESTUCA DURIUSCULA (Hard Fescue). This is really
a ‘“‘bunch grass’’ and not a creeping-rooted species, but it
may be recommended in mixture for high, dry, sandy soils,
where most other grasses would not grow. It thrives in
such soils, and can endure long periods of drought and
extreme summer heat. Forty pounds to the acre:

FESTUCA RUBRA (Red Fescue). <A _ creeping-rooted
species, forming a close and lasting turf, and specially
adapted for dry, sandy soils. It resists extreme drought,
and thrives on very inferior soils, gravelly banks and ex-
posed hillsides. It is also valuable for binding shifting
sands on the sea-shore. As a lawn grass, its chief merit is

7

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

for positions too shaded for better sorts. Thirty pounds
to the acre.

FESTUCA TENUIFOLIA (Slender Fescue). This is
really a variety of Festuca ovina, and not a turf-forming
species. It will grow on very dry and inferior soil, how-
ever, and its dwarf habit of growth and fineness of leaf
render it not unsuitable for such situations in fair-greens.
It is one of the finest leaved grasses we have. Forty pounds
to the acre.

LOLIUM PERENNE (Perennial Rye Grass). Although
called a perennial, it seldom lasts more than three or four
years. It is the most valuable grass of Great Britain, both
for pastures and for meadows, occupying there the same
relative position of importance that Timothy holds here.
The cool, moist climate of England seems to suit it best,
yet it succeeds very well in our Middle and Eastern States,
and adapts itself to a great diversity of soils. The seed is
large and heavy, and produces a strong, verdant growth in
four or five weeks after sowing. There are several varieties
of the Perennial Rye Grass. That known as ‘‘Pacey’s’’ is
of very vigorous growth, and of a more bushy and leafy
habit than the type. It is excellent in mixtures for strength-
ening and enlivening the turf of fair-greens. Sixty pounds
to the acre.

LOLIUM ITALICUM (Italian Rye Grass). Thowgh last-
ing two or three years under very favorable circumstances,
it is practically an annual. Like the Perennial Rye Grass,
it is a remarkably rapid grower, and has, in addition, the
advantage of standing extremes of temperature, remaining
green throughout the winter, and retaining its freshness in
the hottest summer months and during prolonged droughts.
When sown very thickly, or in mixture with other sorts, it
makes a good, dense turf, and it has been used with much
satisfaction on lawns as far south as Jacksonville. On rich,
moist soils it is exceedingly productive, and it also does

8

OF GOLF LINKS

fairly well:in less favored situations. Fifty pounds to the
acre.

POA COMPRESSA (Canada Blue Grass). A very hardy
perennial grass, with creeping root-stocks, forming a close
and durable turf of fine texture. It grows on the poorest
and driest soils, sandy, gravelly or clayey, standing extremes
of wetness or drought, and keeping green till the severe
frosts of winter. It is distinguished from the Kentucky
Blue Grass by its flattened, wiry stems and by its decidedly
bluer color. Sixty to 70 pounds to the acre.

POA NEMORALIS (Wood Meadow Grass). The chief
characteristic of this grass is its special fitness for shaded
positions in lawns and woodland parks, where other grasses
will not grow. It is very permanent and hardy, resisting
extremes of heat and cold, and is one of the first grasses to
show a rich green growth in the spring. The creeping
roots are formed underground, and make a good turf.
Thirty pounds to the acre.

POA PRATENSIS (Kentucky Blue Grass; June Grass).
One of our most widely distributed and valuable native
grasses. It combines more points of excellence than any
other sort. It is a true perennial, lasting indefinitely and
improving every year. Its densely creeping root-stocks,
spreading habit, and smooth, even growth, fine texture and
rich green color render it one of the very best grasses for
golf links. It forms a close turf, starts very early in the
spring, and lasts till frost. It succeeds in almost any soil,
dry, rocky, sandy or gravelly, and stands long-continued
dry weather and hot suns. It takes, however, two or three
years to become well established and should, therefore, be
sown only in connection with other grasses. If the soil is
specially suitable it will eventually crowd these out, and
make the finest possible sward. Forty-five pounds to the
acre.

SEEDING “AND “PRESERVATION

POA TRIVIALIS (Rough-stalked Meadow Grass). A
spreading, thickly matting, stoloniferous-rooted species,
forming a fine turf, and well adapted for the more shaded
portions of lawns. It thrives on rich, moist soil, and in
sheltered situations, but does not do well on dry land.
Twenty pounds to the acre.

WHITE CLOVER (Trifolium repens). Some White Clover
is usually included in lawn grass mixtures. It is of dwarf
habit, the stems creeping and rooting at the joints. It
spreads rapidly, and is very hardy, resisting extremes of
heat and cold, dryness and humidity, and accommodating
itself to all kinds of soils. The seed should be sown in the
spring—not more than two pounds to the acre.

The Theory of Grass Seed

Mixtures

The above list comprises all grasses suitable
for golf courses. Their different characteristics
at once suggest the propriety of selecting par-
ticular sorts to meet particular conditions of soil,
situation and climate. It does not follow, how-
ever, that the best results are always obtained by
sowing any one variety, for it is a well-ascer-
tained fact, fully recognized by all successful agri-
culturists, that a thicker and more prolonged
growth is produced by a mixture of several sorts
than by only one or two, and that a combination
of grasses may thrive on a piece of ground on

10

OF ‘GOER LINKS

which any one of them would succeed indiffer-
ently. Our present concern is not with the ex-
planation of this fact, but with its significance.
It is obvious that a mixture of various sorts
simplifies the task of selecting the grass to sow,
and minimizes the risk of failure. For out of
many varieties there will always be some to suc-
ceed, even if others should fail. This is a very
important consideration in a climate like ours,
where, on certain soils, prolonged droughts and.
hot weather might completely burn up a turf com-
posed of one species. In a mixed turf the several
sorts are mutually helpful in such a case, the very
decay of some of them serving as a mulch and
protection to the others. But apart from these
contingencies, mixtures have a peculiar fitness for
golf grounds, in that they insure an abundance of
verdure for the greater part of the year, some
being at their best very early in the spring and
others not till late in the fall.

It is true that there are individual species, like
Kentucky Blue Grass, that start very early in the
spring and maintain a vigorous growth till winter
sets in. They do this, however, only after they
have become well established in soils that are
eminently suited to them; and when the condi-
tions are specially suited to a particular species
all others will be crowded out in a few years, any-
way. Here, as elsewhere, the struggle for exist-
ence results in the survival of the fittest.

For practical purposes, then, it is sufficient to
consider the general character of the ground to

11

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

be seeded, whether high and dry, low and wet, or
a good soil between the two. A mixture of five
or six of the above-described grasses, preferring
corresponding conditions, is sure to give satis-
factory results.

Formation of Putting-greens

HE preceding chapter is intended to apply to
the seeding of the fair-greens or grounds
in general, where the grasses must, from

the nature of the case, be chosen to suit the
ground. But for the putting-greens the ground
may be made to suit the grasses. Their limited
area makes this possible, and the fact that only
a few grasses will give the required quality of
- sod and fineness of texture makes it necessary.
Kighteen greens, each 100 feet square, cover
only four acres of ground,—a space which can
easily be given sufficient care and attention to
produce a perfect and permanent turf. The
unsatisfactory condition of many of our putting-
greens is due neither to the climate nor to neg-
lect, but to the initial mistake of sowing unsuitable
grasses on imperfectly prepared soil. In their
eagerness to begin play, new clubs often plan
their putting-greens on the best parts of the
existing turf. It may safely be asserted that no
amount of care or patching will ever convert these
spaces into good greens. Another common
method is sodding with transplanted turf. This
may be done with success, when good turf of pure
Kentucky Blue Grass or of the bent grasses can

' 18

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

be obtained. Turf of this description is not
uncommon in the old pastures of our middle and
eastern states. We say old, because the grasses
mentioned are those that would naturally be in
possession after a number of years, all others
being crowded out by them. Where the matter of
expense is unimportant and such turf available,
some time may be saved and fairly good results
secured by sodding. Those who adopt this plan
must observe carefully the following necessary
conditions of success: The soil must be deeply
dug and a liberal supply of barnyard manure or
other fertilizer worked into it. The surface should
be soft and finely pulverized, and the sod pressed
down as firmly as possible upon it. The heaviest
roller will not press it too firmly. A covering of
half an inch of fine soil, through which the grass
will quickly grow, will prevent the turf from dry-
ing out.

As a rule, putting-greens formed either by
patching the existing turf or by sodding with
transplanted turf, are only make-shifts, although
under the conditions above mentioned the latter
plan has been known to give good satisfaction.
The simplest and surest plan is to make the
greens by seeding with grasses peculiarly adapted
for the purpose.

The first and most important step is to pre-
pare the ground thoroughly. Trenching to the
depth of two feet will insure proper drainage,
and enable the grasses to penetrate deeply into
the soil. The deeper and freer the root-growth

14

OF GOLF LINKS

the more able will they be to withstand summer
droughts and severe winters. If the work can be
begun in the fall, so much the better. In trench-
ing, the soil should be thoroughly pulverized, and
an abundant quantity of well-rotted stable manure
worked into it. The following spring a dressing
of ground-bone and chemiéal fertilizer should be
applied, the soil again turned over, the surface
finely pulverized by raking and rolling, and lev-
elled to a perfect grade.

Referring now to the list of turf-forming
grasses given in a former chapter, we observe that
the first two species of Agrostis; viz., Rhode Island
Bent Grass and Creeping Bent Grass, and Cynos-
rus cristatus, are suitable for forming the quality
of turf required on a putting-green. Their low,
creeping, densely matting habit, fine, yet not too
fine, foliage, their great permanence, and their
peculiar quality of improving the more they are
tramped upon, all suggest special fitness for this
purpose. A mixture of these sorts should be sown,
the greater proportion being Creeping Bent on
low, moist soils, and Rhode Island Bent on high,
dry land. (In the states south of Virginia Ber-
muda Grass should be used.) In this section these
grasses, sown during the latter part of March, on
soil so prepared, will produce a turf fit for play
by September, and one which will keep on im-
proving indefinitely. If the seed is sown on the
newly raked surface, it need not be covered. The
ground must be rolled, however, to press the seed
into the earth and to give the final smoothing to

15

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

the surface. In sowing, care must be taken to dis-
tribute the seed evenly, and not in patches. A
very liberal quantity is recommended of the bent
grasses,—say 25 pounds of clean seed to each
green of 100 feet square.

Time of Sowing

HE proper time to sow grass seed depends,
of course, upon the latitude. In the cen-
tral and eastern states from the middle of

March to the middle of May (and frequently to
middle June, according to season) is the best time.
If sown later,the grassesmay not be strong enough
to stand the hot, dry summer months. Seed may
also be sown in the fall, provided it is done early
enough to secure a good, strong growth before
winter sets it. If the young plants are not well-
rooted, they are liable to be killed by frost or
thrown out of the ground by the action of alter-
nate freezing and thawing. That is the objection
to late fall sowing. The advantage of it is that,
if the grass comes safely through the winter, it
has a good start in the spring. The sowing should
be done when the ground is moist, or before an
expected rain, and a subsequent rolling is always
advisable, in order to press the seed into the soil.
Seed for the putting-greens should be kept always
on hand, and before every rain in summer it
should be sown on any thin or burnt-out spots
that may appear.

17

Weeds

EAN HERBERT said that ‘‘plants do not
grow where they like best, but where other
plants will let them.’’ The remark is

peculiarly applicable to weeds—of all kinds. They
are most in evidence the first season, before the
grass has become well established, occupying
every thin or bare spot. But once a close turf has
been formed, they will cause little trouble. The
only way to get rid of them is to sow enough grass _-
seed to crowd them out and prevent the introduc-
tion of others. With a few exceptions they are all
annuals, dying at the approach of winter. Let the
spots occupied by them be scarified in the spring
with a steel rake, or harrowed, if the area is large;
then apply some chemical fertilizer and sow grass
seed. The weeds will not appear in these spots
again. The perennials, however, such as dande-
lions, docks and plantains, are not so easily dis-
posed of. These must be pulled out by the root
and grass seed sown in their places. Most weeds
are easily kept down by the lawn-mower, and, ex-
cept by their unsightliness, cause little trouble to
golfers. One important exception deserves par-
ticular notice. Its scientific name is Panicum san-
guinale, but it is best known and least esteemed

18

OF GOOLE LINKS

as ‘‘crab grass’’ and ‘‘summer grass.’’ It lies
low before the mower and springs up elastic be-
hind it,—refusing to be cut. It is a most aggres-
sive expansionist, seizing upon any spot that
offers it standing room, and crowding out every-
thing that cannot resist it. It is most conspicuous
and unsightly in the early fall, when it turns
brown. By the end of autumn it is dead. It leaves,
however, much seed of very great vitality which
will come up again the following year and crowd
out the finer grasses. If in the fall it is found
that this grass exists it is important that the
plants of it be at once cut out, so that they may not
seed. If fertilizer is then applied and grass seed
thickly sown, the space may be saved from next
year’s invasion of this pest. There is no other
remedy. Crab grass grows wherever other grasses
will let it, and nowhere else.

19

Earthworms

HE genius of Charles Darwin was devoted to

a long and exhaustive study of the action

of earthworms, and his experiments proved
conclusively that their borings and castings have
a very beneficial influence on grass lands. He
estimated that over ten tons of dry earth per
acre are passed through their bodies annually,
undergoing, in the process, a grinding that greatly
improves its quality as soil. While we recognize
the annoyance caused by worm-casts on putting-
greens, we hesitate to suggest any means of de-
stroying these useful creatures. It is, of course,
impracticable to do so over a large area, but on
grounds where they are particularly troublesome
the selection of fertilizers might be made with a
view to keeping them under. The alkaline effect
of wood-ashes is very irritating to them, and they
eannot stand quick-lime. On _ putting-greens
earthworms might be destroyed by saturating the
ground with a kerosene wash, or ground charcoal
might be spread over the greens in the spring; but,
even there, it is probably as well to put up with
their operations and to minimize the trouble they
cause by brushing their castings off, or over, the
greens lightly with a broom. A distinguished golfer
recommends the following formula: Take \% oz.
corrosive sublimate and mix with two quarts of
water; then add 40 or 50 gallons of water and
sprinkle the ground, using an ordinary watering-
pot. ees

20

Fertilizers

HE essential elements of fertilizer for grass
lands are nitrogen, phosvhoric acid and
potash, because these are the chemical

elements which the grasses in growing appro-
priate in largest quantity, and which are present
in the soil in smallest proportion. All the com-
mon manures and commercial fertilizers contain
these elements in greater or smaller quantity, and
are valuable proportionately, so that it really does
not matter what kind of fertilizer is used, pro-
vided these necessary elements are rendered avail-
able as food for the plants. The matter of avail-
ability is very important, for it is obvious that the
fertilizing constituents are useless unless they are
in a form in which they can be assimilated by the
plants. This fact suggests the propriety of using
particular forms of manure or fertilizer, accord-
ing to the conditions of the soil and the manner
of application.

STABLE MANURE. This is decidedly the best and most
economical form of fertilizer to use in: the initial prepara-
tion of the ground for permanent grass lands. A too liberal
quantity can hardly be applied. A very heavy dressing,
plowed in in the fall, and another dressing cross-plowed in
the following spring are recommended. This manure con-

21

SEEDING AND PRESERVATION

tains all the ‘‘essential manurial elements,’’ but in a form
more or less insoluble. They become available slowly and
continuously, as the manure decays. Besides being one of
the best direct fertilizers, this form of manure has a most
valuable mechanical effect in improving the condition of the
soil—the vegetable matter in it making stiff, clayey lands
more porous and a too light soil more compact. But,
although there is nothing better for plowing under, it is by
no means as economical when used as a top-dressing. For
when so applied the mechanical effect above mentioned is
only slightly exercised, and much of the fertilizing proper-
ties is lost by the long exposure to the atmosphere. These
considerations, and the extra labor involved in spreading in
the fall and removing the coarse vegetable parts remaining
in the spring, make the natural manure less desirable for
surface application than some of the other forms of fertil-
izer. Its liability to contain weed seeds is still another
objection to stable manure for top-dressing.

GROUND BONE. As a fertilizer for grass lands, ground
bone comes next in importance to barnyard manure. In the
preparation of the ground, a liberal quantity of the coarser
grade should be well worked into the soil, where it decom-
poses slowly, furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen
and phosphoric acid. For top-dressing, the finer grade,
known as ‘“‘bone meal” or ‘“‘bone flour,’’ should be used.
There is nothing better than an early spring dressing of
this at the rate of half a ton to the acre. On putting-
greens it might be supplemented by nitrate of soda, at the
rate of 300 pounds to the acre, because the nitrogen in
the bone is somewhat slow to become available.

CHEMICAL FERTILIZER. A _ high-grade complete
chemical fertilizer is probably the surest and most effective
spring top-dressing for grass. It contains all the essential
elements in a highly concentrated and quickly available
form. Half a ton to the acre is sufficient on an ordinary
soil. To ensure even distribution, it should be mixed with
equal bulk of dry earth. Such a fertilizer is also excellent

22

OF. GOLF LINKS

for working into the soil when making putting-greens.
Chemical fertilizer should be bought guaranteed or subject
to analysis.

SHEEP MANURE. In the pulverized form in which it is
usually sold, this manure makes an excellent top-dressing.
It may be applied either in the fall or early spring, at the
rate of three or four tons to the acre. It contains nearly
twice as much solid matter as horse manure, and is. very
rich in phosphoric acid, nitrogen and potash. It also adds
humus to the soil, which chemical fertilizers do not. Mixed
with water—1 pound to 5 gallons—and a little muriate of
potash added, it makes a most effective liquid fertilizer for
putting-greens.

WOOD ASHES. The fertilizing value of unleached wood
ashes is due to the potash which they contain. To
make a complete fertilizer it would be necessary to
add some phosphoric acid and nitrogen. For this pur-
pose 1,000 pounds bone meal and 300 pounds nitrate of
soda to the acre would answer. Any quantity of the ashes
may be used,—3 to 5 tons to the acre. They have an im-
portant mechanical effect in lightening the soil. Leached
wood ashes contain only 1 per cent. potash and have prac-
tically no fertilizing value. In purchasing, care should be
taken to get pure and unleached ashes.

NITRATE OF SODA.—In stimulating the growth of grass,
nitrate of soda is the most quickly effective top-dressing, the
nitrogen in this form being immediately available. It is
extremely soluble, and penetrates deep into the soil, thus
promoting a stronger and deeper root-growth. It is very
valuable to promote a quick growth on new grasslands and
should be applied preferably when the young grass is 2 or
3 inches tall. Two or three slight dressings at intervals
throughout the season are recommended in preference to
one heavy application. An equal quantity of bone meal
mixed with it would supply the requisite phosphoric acid.
For a putting-green 100 feet square, 40 pounds of this mix-
ture would be sufficient at a time.

23

Rolling and Mowing

OLLING.—As soon as the frost is out of
the ground in the spring, the land should
be gone over with a heavy roller. Winter

frosts loosen the soil, and rolling is necessary to
compress it again. If grass seed is to be sown,
this should be done first and the rolling immedi-
ately afterwards. Frequent rollings are recom-
mended.

Mow1ne.—All turf-forming grasses are im-
proved, both in vigor of root-growth and in fine-
ness of texture, by frequent mowings. It is im-'
possible to say just how often the grass should
be mown, as that depends upon the rate at which
it grows. In the spring and early summer, when
the growth is most vigorous, three cuttings a week
are recommended for putting-greens. Too close
cutting should be guarded against, however, es-
pecially during the hot summer months, when the
roots require some top-growth to protect them
from the burning sun. For the same reason it is
as well not to rake off the cut grass, as it quickly
settles about the roots and forms a valuable pro-
tective mulch. A good top-growth is also neces-
sary to protect the roots from severe winter
frosts. Mowing should therefore be discontinued
in time to let the grass grow pretty long before
winter sets in.

24

ADVERTISEMENTS

J. M. THORBURN & CO.

Seedsmen

33 BARCLAY STREET, NEW YORK
(LATE OF 36 CORTLANDT STREET)

Established 1802

OR over a hundred years our house has made
a specialty of grasses. We were probably
the first to introduce to this country, for
commercial distribution, the many valuable nat-
ural and cultivated foreign species that now take
such an important part in our agricultural econ-
omy. The formation of permanent pastures and
meadows has for many years been a subject of
eareful study with us, and our celebrated formule
for seeding grasslands have received universal
recognition.

We have given similar attention to lawn-
grasses, and our thorough knowledge of the sub-
ject enables us to prescribe the most suitable kind
for all soils, situations and climatic conditions.
Most of the very finest lawns from Florida to
Canada were produced by seed prescribed and

25

ADVERTISEMENTS

furnished by us. We could justify this statement
by thousands of testimonials if space would
permit.

What we have done for lawns and pastures
we ean do for golf links also. Our knowledge of
grasses and their requirements is the outcome of
close observation and long experience. Besides
being able to give sound advice, our position as
large wholesale dealers in grass seeds enables us
to supply the required varieties, of the highest
grade and at the lowest prices. We invite Greens
Committees to consult us, either personally or by
letter.

Our general seed Catalogue contains a full
descriptive list of all valuable natural and culti-
vated grasses and clovers, both foreign and
domestic. We shall be glad to mail it on appli-
eation. Where large quantities are required we
shall quote special prices, at same time submit-
ting samples if desired. Grass seeds can only be
bought intelligently by sample, as their value de-
pends so much upon weight and purity.

The following celebrated courses were obtained
from the use of grasses and fertilizers prescribed
and furnished mainly by us:

St. Andrews Golf Club Calumet Country Club

Wee Burn Golf Club Rockland County Country Club
Apawamis Golf Club Geo. W. Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate
Nassau Country Club Allegheny Country Club
Hackensack Golf Club Shinnecock Hills Golf Club
Nashville Golf Country Club. Montclair Golf Club

Essex County Country Club Englewood Golf Club

Chicago Golf Club Oakmont Country Club
Philadelphia Country Club Buffalo Country Club

Baltusrol Golf Club Woodlawn Cemetery.

Upper Montclair Country Club Morris County Country Club

26

ADVERTISEMENTS

FERTILIZERS FOR LAWNS AND
GOLF LINKS

Thorburn’s Grass Fertilizer

Guaranteed to contain ammonia, 6 to 7 per cent; phos-
phorie acid, all soluble, 8.to 10 per cent; actual potash,
5 to 6 per cent; lime, sulphate of magnesia, soda, sul-
phuric acid, etc. Specially prepared for top-dressing lawns
‘and golf links, imparting to grass a rich green color and
vigorous growth. Being very powerful, half a ton is suffi-
cient for an acre on soil not impoverished.

PRICE—In 167-lb. bags, per ton, $50; single bags
of 167 Ibs., $4.50.

Pualverized Sheep Manure
PRICE—Per 100 Ibs., $2; per ton, $28.

Unleached Hardwood Ashes
PRICE—$22 per ton.

Bone Fertilizers

Pure Ground Bone Meal. This finely pulverized ground
bone is excellent for top-dressing. It decomposes very rap-
idly, and is more quickly effective than the coarser grade.
100 lbs., $2; per ton, $30.

Ground Bone No. 2. This is coarser than the above, and
is suitable for working into the soil. It decomposes slowly,
furnishing a continuous supply of nitrogen and phosphoric
acid. Per 100-lb. bag, $2.25; per ton, $36.

Nitrate of Soda

Furnished always at market price, which fluctuates con-
siderably.

N. B.—On large quantities of above Fertilizers special prices will
be quoted.

ADVERTISEMENTS

GRASS SEED MIXTURES

PERENNIAL GRASSES FOR GOLF LINKS.

For Fair We prefer to make special mixtures to suit
the particular conditions of soil and situation. If correspondents
will describe the nature of the land to be seeded, whether dry,
moist’ or medium. and whether clayey, sandy or loamy, we shall
recommend a suitable mixture, and quote price at same time.

For Putting-Greens. Our finest possible mixture for putting-
greens. Price per bushel of 24 lbs., $7.

FOR LAWNS.

Thorburn’s Lawn Grass Mixture. The finest possible mix-
ture for lawns. It should be sown at the rate of 4 to 5 bushels
to the acre. Price per bushel of 15 lbs., $3.50.

Thorburn’s Lawn-Restoring Mixture. A mixture of grasses
peculiarly suited to take firm hold and grow quickly on hard,
worn-out or burned spots. The bare spots should be well scratched
or raked up, and this seed sown liberally. Cover very thinly with
earth, and then roll or press down firmly with the back of the
spade. Some Lawn-Restoring Grass Seed should be kept always
on hand, and before every rain during the summer some of it
should be sown on any part that may appear thinner than the
rest. Price per quart-box, 30 cts.; per bushel of 24 lbs., $5.

FOR MEADOW AND PASTURE.

We invite country gentlemen to send for our circular of formu-
le for permanent meadows and pastures. It gives the names of
the grasses used and the proportion of each. They are all made
so as to be sown at the rate of 40 lbs. seed to the acre. Our
prices, per acre, are as follows:

PERMANENT MEADOWS—
No. 1. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. $6.00 per acre.
Nowe, Hor wien and’ dry, lanG2 soe acdsee aus cee 7.00
Nowa se ehor wet, Ante, land. 2 225. c00 ove woee eee 6.00 J
PERMANENT PASTURES—
No. 4. For good land, neither too dry nor too wet. 7.00
Nob 4 Wor shichnne sry lands... oth sane ota oe S00 os
NoAG: > Mor -wet, “ate Wand: 2. hoses sais es 3% 7.00 s
Our General Catalogue gives full description and prices of all
valuable natural and cultivated grasses and clovers. It is mailed
free on application.

28

GRASS SEED MIXTURES—OContiuued.

THORBURN’S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE.

This extra-choice mixture contains a large proportion of the finer
and more expensive species, such as Rhode Island Bent, Crested
Dog’s-Tail, Creeping Bent, in extra-heavy samples, bringing the
weight up to 20 pounds per bushel, and producing a turf of the
closest and finest texture possible. Price per bus. of 20 lbs., $5.

THORBURN’S LAWN GRASS FOR THE SOUTH.

A mixture of grasses that stand extremes of heat and drought
well and that are therefore peculiarly adapted for Southern lawns.
Bus. of 20 lbs., $6.

THORBURN’S GRASS MIXTURE FOR SHADY SPOTS ON
LAWNS.
A mixture of grasses that thrive in shaded situations, under

trees, or close to walls where there is little sun. Bus. of 24

Ibs., $6.

THORBURN’S SPECIAL LAWN GRASS MIXTURE FOR
THE SEASHORE.

A mixture of fine grasses peculiarly suited to seaside lawns.
Bus. of 20 lbs., $5.

POLO-GROUNDS MIXTURE.

A mixture of fine-leaved and deep-rooting grasses, forming a
strong and lasting turf that will stand hard usage. Per bushel of
20 pounds, $3.25.

TENNIS-COURT MIXTURE.

A mixture of extra-fine grasses peculiarly adapted for tennis-
courts. This mixture will make a firm, green and lasting turf of
finest texture, that will improve with tramping. Bus. of 24
Ibs., $7.

29

ADVERTISEMENTS

Coldwell Improved Horse Lawn Mower

This well-known standard Mower has side-draft attachment, to enable the horse
to walk on the cut grass only, and caster-rollers, which will not mark the lawn.
Evenness of cut is assured by an adjustment which raises or lowers the two sides
at the same time by means of a simple lever movement; the same lever serves the
Beene of raising the knives from the ground when driving over gravel walks or
roads.

NET PRICES free on board New York
25-in. cut, no shafts, $38. | 35-in. cut, complete, $78.
30-in. cut, complete, $65. | 40-in. cut, complete, $95.
Capitol Lawn Trimmer and Edger
For trimming close to walls or fences. A useful labor-saving device. Price, $6 each

Cast-Iron Hand Lawn
Rollers

All Sizes. See Our General Catalogue

Cast-Iron Horse Land
Rollers

With either Pole, for
two horses, or Shafts,
for one horse. Prices

= PS

= 1 on application.
~ apreint
re) zi

ADVERTISEMENTS

The Thorburn Century Ball-

Bearing Lawn Mower

BALL-BEARING
SELF-ADJUSTING, EASIEST WORKING
LONGEST LASTING

A 20-inch cut machine can be used with greater ease
than a 16-inch cut old style mower.

PRICES
Feet ciao sh 3) 4 $8:so 8-inch cut. . . . , $10.50
ere eh 9 950 20 SE 11.50

kG> Special prices to Golf Clubs requiring a number of them

31

ADVERTISEMENTS

Chain Roller or Golf Mower

The Best for
Putting-Greens

This mower is made to meet the demand for a machine that will
more perfectly. cut borders, verges, etc., and yet retain all the other
features necessary in a mower for general work. The great advantage
of this mower is the substitution of a bicycle chain for the gears generally
used in this style of mower. This reduces the friction to a minimum.
The machine with six blades is highly reeommended by most of the
leading golf clubs in America for work on putting-greens.

NET PRICES, free on board New York
4 Blades 6 Blades 4 Blades 6 Blades

12-inch cut ... . $12 00 $13 00 | 16-inch out .. . $1400 $15 00
14-inch cut -. « . 13°00. 14°00) 18-inch cut: 5 -.-: -16-00- S168

HORSE BOOTS

Made of very strong, heavy fleather,
closely riveted. Price per set=of four, $9.
Reinforced zinside.with‘steel-plate, per’set
of four, $11.

32

ADVERTISEMENTS

- Coldwell's

Motor Lawn Mower.
Style “D”

The machine weighs 2,000 pounds, and will negotiate 25 per
cent. grades. It consumes from % to 3 of a gallon of gasoline per
hour, cuts a 40-inch swath, and will do three times as much work
in a day as any ordinary horse lawn mower. Will almost pay for
itself in a single season.

Price, $1,300 net, f. 0. b. New York City. Terms, strictly net
cash on delivery.

CAN BE SEEN IN OUR WAREHOUSE

Cireular on application

MAK 15 1906