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SELECT REMAINS

Of the Learned

JOHN RAT,

M. A. and F. R. S.

WITH HIS

LIFE,

By the Late

Will I A M P E R H A M, D. D.
Canon of Windfor^ and F. R. S.

Publifhed by

GEORGE SCOTT, M.A. and F.R.S.

LONDON,

Printed ; and Sold by J a. D o d s l e y, in Pall-Malh
and J. Walter, at Charing-Crofs^

M^DCC.LX,

^1^/3

f b

The Right HoNOURABti the

Earl of Macclesfield,
Prejtdent of the Royal Society*

My LoRDj .

AS Mr. Ray was both^
an eminent Philolbpher,
and a Fellow of the Royal
Society, there is no one to -
A % whom

iv DEDICATION.

whom the following Sheets
could, with fo much Propriety,
be addrelled, as to your Lord-
jhip. I will not here, my
Lord, attempt an Encomium
on your Lordjhip’s, Character,
for it would be thought Pre-
lumption in me to endeavour
to do Juftice to thole excellent
QiialitieSj which lb eminently
diftinguilhyourZ.«'r<^/j^>. May
you, my Lord, long live an
Ortiament to your Country, and
to that illujlrious Body, over
which you lb worthily prelide !

1 will not, my Lord, make
any Apology for not giving a'

more

DEDICATION, v

more elaborate Life of Mr.
Ray ; I (hall only beg Leave
to alTure your Lordjhip^ that
it now appears as it was left by
Dr. Derham^ who even feemed
to delpair of ever putting it
into its prefent Drefs, if we
may judge by what he fays on
this Subject in his Preface to
the CollePlion of Philofophical
Letters,, between Mr. Ray and
his ingenious Correfpondents.
Where he obferves, that noU
withfanding he had made a
confiderable Progrefs in his
Life, yet he was afraid he
fjould fcarce be able to accom- •
plijh what he intended, as he

had

vi DEDICATION.

had much lefs Leifure at that
than when he undertook
that JVork,

The three Letters from Mh
Ray to Dr. Derham, are notj
my Lord^ in the Colle£Iion
juft mentioned j I have there-
fore piven diem a Place among
the Remains^ which I hope is
done with the more Propriety^
as they, have ibme Reference td
Mr. Ray'^s Life.

The Itineraries, my Lord,
are in Mr. Rafs, own Hand-
Writing, and as no one was
ever more accurate in his Ob-
fervations than he was, I

thought

DEDICATION, vii

thought it would not be right
to keep them any longer from
the Public ; elpecially as I have
Letters by me from fome emi-^
nent Perlbns to Dr. Derham^
earneftly prefling the Publica-
tion of them. Permit me now,
my Lordy to olfer them, with
the other Remains, of Mr. Ray^
to the Public, under your Lord”
fhip’s Protection, and to flib--
fcribe myfelf.

My Lord,

Tour Lordjhip^s
tnofl obedient
humble Servant^

George Scott.

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V

THE

L I F E

O F

Mr. RAT.

R. yohn Ray (the Subject
of the following Life) was
the Son of Roger Ray.,
and Elizabeth his Wife,
of Black Notky^ near Braintree^ in
EJfex. He 'was born November the
29th, 1628) and was bred a Scholar
at Braintree School, under one Mr.
Love.^ the. Mafter thereof ; where he

B made

2 "The Life Mr. RAY.

made fuch Proficiency (although at
that time no good School, which
Mr. Ray ufed fometimes to lament,
as a great Misfortune to his younger
Year's,) that before he arrived at the
Age of Sixteen he was fent to the
Univerjity of Cambridge^ and entered
2it Katherine-Hall, on yum 28th,

1644, under the Tuition of Mr.

Here he continued about a Year
and three Quarters, and then re-
moved to Trinity -College : But for
what Reafon, or by v/hat Means, I can-
not tell j only I find he was afterwards
much pleafed therewith ; becaufe in
Katherme-Hall they chiefly addicted
therafelves to Difputations ; but in
Trinity the politer Arts and Sciences
were principally minded and' culti-
vated.

'When

rhehi^^ of Mr. KkY. 3

When he was come to Trinity-
College., ]ie had the Happinefs to have
Dr. Duport for his Tutor; a Man
well known for his Learning; parti-
cularly for his great Skill in Greek,
which he gave the World good Proof
of, in his Homer ical Tranflations of
Job and the other Hagiographa.

Under this -learned Tutor, Mr..
Ray fo clofely applied himfelf to his
Studies, that what he miffed of at
Braintree School, he fufficiently at-
tained to at Trmity-College ; having
acquired great. Skill in Greek and La-
tin, and I have good Reafon to think
in Hebrew alfo. Behdes which, I
find, by fome of his Papers written
about that Time, that he was very
early an excellent Orator and Natu-
ralift : And upon the Account, of his
great Diligence, Learning, and Virtue,

' he was foon taken Notice of. by the
Be. College;

4 The 'Ll v's. of Mr. RAY.

College; and at about three Years
ftanding was chofen Minor Fellow of
‘Trinity., on September the 8th, 1649,
together with his ingenious Friend
Ifaac Barrow, and as Dr. Duport
had been Tutor to both of them, fo
he ufed to boaft of them, as Mr. Ray\
Fellow Collegian the late pious and
learned Mr. Brokejby informed me,
who faith. That, he in Difcourfe with
Dr, Duport, reckotiing up fever al Gen-
tlemen of TV orth that the DoEior had
been Tutor to, the DoEior faid. The
chief of all his Pupils were Mr.' Ray
and Dr. Barrow, to whom he efleetned
none of the ref comparable.

Mr. Ray having continued Minor
Fellow, whilfl: Batchelor of Arts, was
(according to the Cuftom of the Col-
lege) chofen Major Fellow, when of
Mafer\ ftanding. After which, on
G Bober the ift, 1651, he was cho-

The of Mr. RAY. 5

fen the Greek LeSlurer of tlie Col-
lege; and on OEioher the ift, 1653,
he was made Mathematical LeSlurer ;
and after that, on OSlober the 2d,
1655, Humatiity Reader.

After this, w'hen of greater Hand-
ing, he was chofen into the Offices
of the College, and was made Pra-
leSlor Primarius., OSlober the ift,
1657, and fm^ior Dean., OSlober
the 2d, 1658; and laftly twice Col-
lege-Steward, being fworn into that
Office December the 26th, 1659,

and December the i6th, 1660.

During this Time^of Mr. Ray\ be-
ing in the Univerfity, he was Tutor
to many Gentlemen of great Worth.
From feveral of which I meet with.
Letters of due Praife and Acknow-
legements.

- ' B3

Neither

6 Life o/ Mr. RAY,

Neither was he only an eminent
Tutor, but as eminent a Preacher,
both in his College and in the Uni-
verlity. We have fufficient Examples
of his Performances of this Kind, in
the Theological Pieces he publiflied ;
wliich were all or mofl of them Com-
mon-Places in his College, or Ser-
mons preached in the Univerlity :
Particularly, his Wifdom of God in the
Creation was a College Exercife.

Although, as is juft obferved, he
was much famed for his Preaching,
he did it in a Way very different from
the Fafhion of thole Fanatical Times,
His Grace the late pious and lea,rned
Archbifhop of Canterbury^ Dr. 'Teni-
fon (whom I arn bound to mention
with all due Relpedi; and Honour) told
me, Tdhat Mr. Ray was much cele-
brated in his ‘Time in Cambridge, for
his preaching folid and ufeful Divi-
2 ■

rijehivE of Mr. KKY. 7

nity., infiead of that enthufaftick Stuff.,
which the Sermons of that Time were
getter ally filled with ; and that he
well remembered the SubjeEl of one of
his Sermons was, Mundus non le-
nefcit; which he was much ap-
plauded.

Flis three Phyfco-'Theological Dif-
courfes concerning the Chaos, Deluge,
and Diffolution of the TV or Id, I con-
ceive, were Common-Places, or Ser-
mons. His Difcourfe of the Diffb-
lution, he faith, was a Sermon he
preached of old at St. Mary’r in Cam-
bridge, in a Letter to his beloved
and learned Friend Dr. Tancred Ro-
binfon, of July the 24th, 1690.

The firft Draught of which Sermon,
as alfo of feme of his other Difeourfes,
I have feen, but not nearly fo much
enlarged as in the printed Tradls,

Having

8 TJoe Life ^ Mr. RAY.

Having mentioned thus much ot
Mr. Ray\ Preaching, I fhall take
Notice of two. Sermons I have met
with, which he delivered at the Fu-
nerals of two of his Friends ; One
I imagine was at the Funeral of Dr.
jlrrowfmith., Mafler of his College,
on Romans xii. 12. Patient in "Tri-
bulation. Which Words (he faith) he
made Choice of.^ by Reafon the Life of
that reverend and learned Perfon,
efpeciqlly the lajl Scene of it^ was emi-
nently remarkable for the PraEiice and
Lxercife of the Grace of Patience-,
occafioned, I find, by a valetudina-
rian State of Body. But as for the
Particulars which Mr. Ray recounts
of his Life, his Education at New-
cafile upon Tyne, his Admiflion into
St. Johns College, and being called
thence to be Fellow of Katherine-
Hall, then Preacher at Kmg s-Lynn,
alter that Regius Profeffor, Vice-

Chqn-

Tlie Life ^ Mr. RAY. 9

Chancellor of Cambridge., and laftly
Majler of 'Trinity -College, his wife
and good Behaviour in all thofe Places

O

and Trufts, his Meeknefs, Peaceful-
nefs, Induftry, and Learning, ^ c.
I fay, as for fuch Particulars, men-
tioned in Mr. Ray\ Sermon, I fhall
pafs them by as foreign to my Pur-
pofe.

The other Sermon, was at the Fu-
neral of his mofl intimate and dear
Collegue, Mr. Joh7i Nid, on Pfal.
xxxix. 5 . V zrily, every Man at his
bejl State is altogether V anity. How
great the Friendfliip was between
thele two, may be feen in Mr. Ray\
Preface, to his Catal. Plant, circa
Caittabr. where he calls him, amicif-
fnnus ^ individuus cotnes\ and ap-
plauds him (as he doth more largely
in his Funeral Sermon) for his admir-
p.ble Sweetnefs, and candid Temper

■ lo Thehivv. of Mr. RAY.

of Mind, his exad: Probity, and In-
nocence of Life and Manners, his
lingular Modefty, and his excellent
Learning ; particularly his great and
exad: Skill in the Univerfal Hiflory
of Nature, and the V/orks of God :
Or, in few Words, as I find it men-
tioned in Mr. Ray s Sermon, f. 7Y.
operum Dei Admirator.^ Probitatis

jiudiofus : Which, as it was exadfly
agreeable to Mr. Nid\ Pradice, fo
leems to have been a Motto Mr. Nid

■ had pitched upon, it being written
by himfelf in one of his Books.
From this CharacSfer of Mr. Nid^ it
is eafy, to judge what the Caufe was
of that great Intimacy and Friend-
fhip that was between Mr. Ray and
him, viz. The Agreement of their
Genius and Studies, and the exadl
Conformity of their Humours and
Manners.

During

7^^ Life o/ Mr. RAY. ii

During this Intimacy with Mr.
Nidf Mr. Ray wrote his Catalogue
of Cambridge Plants^ which he faith
Mr. Nid had a great Hand in, and
lived to fee almofl: perfedled.. Which
Piece was publifhed in 1660, and
was of lingular Ufe, in promoting
the Study of Botany; a Branch of
Learning much negledted at that
Time, not only in Cambridge^ but
in mofl; other Parts of the Kingdorh.
But after this Book was publifhed (as
Mr. Ray himlelf told me, than whom
no Man ever fpoke with greater Mo-
delly of himfelf, or his Performances)
many were prompted to thofe Studies.^
and to mind the Plants they met with
in their TV alks in the Fields.

This Book meeting with a kind
Reception among the Learned and
Curious, encouraged Mr. Ray the far-
ther to proceed in thefe Studies and

Obferva-.

1 2 The Life of Mr. RAY.

Obfervations. And not content with
what he met with about Cambridge.^
he extended his Purfuits throughout
the greateft Part of England and
WaleSy and Part of Scotland. In
which he had commonly the Com-
pany of feveral curious Gentlemen,
particularly Mr. Willughby., his Pu-
pil Mr. Skippon (afterwards Sir Philip )
and Mr. Peter Courthope.

Of thefe Journeys he left Accounts
behind him ; a' great Part of which
are here publifhed.

The Firfl of thefe Journeys was
from Augujl the 9th to September
the 1 8th, in 1658. Which he took
by himfelf alone through Northamp-
tonjhire'^ W arwickjhire^ Leicejler-

pdre.) Derbyjhire^ LancafJdrey Che-
pjire., Flintpdre., Denbighjhire., Caer^
narvonjhirc., Mriglefey^ Merionydjhire^

Shrop-

"The Life of Mr. RAY. 13

Shropfoh'e, Worceferfnre^ and Glou-
cofcrfjire.

After this Journey, having finifh-
ed his Cambridge Catalogue., and
publifhed it, as I faid, in 1660, and
peaceable Times coming on, by the
Refauration of the King and Royal
Family, Mr. Ray began to think of
entering into Holy Orders ; and at
the latter End of the Year was or-
dained both Deacon and Priefl by
the learned Bifhop Sandxrfon. One
or both which Ordqrs, his Lordfhip,
then Bifhop of Lincoln, conferred
upon Mr. Ray, in his Chapel in Bar-
bican in Londott, on the 23d of De-
cember i66o.

But now, if it iBould be afked.
How it came to pafs that Mr. Ray,
who was not in Orders, till 1660,
was admitted to preach (as I have

faid

14 7’he'Li'e'B. of Mr. RAY.

faid he did) in the College Chapel,
and at St. Mary\ before the Univer-
fty f I briefly Anfwer, in the before
mentioned Mr. BrokeJby\ Words,
’That Preaching and Common-placing
were then commonly performed by Per-
fons not ordained.

After his Ordination, Mr. Ray
continued to purfue his Inquiries
after Plants, and other Curiofities;
and therefore took another Journey
(aceompanied by Mr. Willughby., and
fbme other Gentlemen) thro’ Hunt-
ingdonfdire., Northamptonjhire^ dn-
colnjhire., Torlfhire, the Bifhoprick of
Durham., Northumberland, and fo
into Scotland, as far as Glafcow and
Sterling, and thence baek again thro’
Cumberland and Weflmorland, They
fet out on July the 26th, 1661, from
Cambridge, and finifhed their Journey
the 30th of Auguft.

The

‘The 'Ll? 'E of Mr. R AY. 1 5

The Year after this, Mr. Ray (and
Mr. Willughby -vj'ixSx him) took an-
other J ourney from Cambridge. T hey
fet out on May the 8th, 1662, and-
pafled through NorthafnptonJhire.f
TVarwichfnre., Staffordjhire., Chefdrey
Flintfjire., Denbighpire., Caernar-
vonpire., Anghfey., Merionydpire^
Mo7itgomerypire., Cardiganfoire., Pem-
brokepircy Caermarde^pirCy Glamor-
ganfoircy Montnouthfldrey Gloucejler-
pirCy SofnerfetpirCy Devonfnrey Corn-
wally DorfetpirCy Wiltfnrey and
HamppAre-y and returned in fuly
following.

During all this Period, Mr. Ray
continued Fellow of irmity-Colleggy
till the Beginning of the ( i ) Bartho-
lomew-

(i) Among fome mifcellaneous Obfervations
of Mr. is as follows ; September the i8th,
‘‘ 1662. The Names of fuch Fellows of Col-

l6 'T'he Life of Mr. RAY.

lomew-ASi., which, requiring a Sub-
fcription againft the Sole?nn League
and Covenant., ' occahoned Mr. Ray to
refign his Fellowfliip, he refufing to
fign that Declaration. But the Rea-
fon of his Refufal was not (as fome
have imagined) his having taken the
Solemn League a^td Covenant (2) ; (for
that he never did, and often declared
that he ever thought it an unlawful

/

“ leges in the Univerfity of Camhridgey as were
deprived for not fubfcribing according to the
‘‘ new for Uniformity i66i. St. John'sCol-
“ lege, Mr. JVood and Mr. Tuckney, trinity
“ College, Mr. IVray, Emanuel College^ Mr.
‘‘ Blingworthy Mr. Hulfe^ and Mr. Brinjley, Pern-
“ broke-Hally Mr. Clifford and Mr. Green. Ben-
“ nett College, Mr. Chapman, Jefus College,
Mr. Huffe, 'Mzgdalen College, Mr. Hill and
‘‘ Mr. More, King's College, Mr. Buncombe,
“ Befides thefe, Br, Billinghamy MaJlero^ Ema-
‘‘ nuel College.”

(2) See Note ( 1 4), and Mr. Ray^s ByingWordSy
at the End of the Philofophical Letters between
him and his learned Friends, publiflied by Dr.-
Berham,

Oath,)

'The of Mr. RAY. 17

Oath,) but he faid he could not de-
clare, for thofe that had taken the
Oath, that no Obligation lay upon
them ; but feared there might. And
one Thing that unfortunately then
happened was (as Mr. Brokejby in-
formed me) That he was at that time
abfe7tt from his College., where he
might have met with SatisfaElion to
his Scruples, and was among fame
zealous No7tco7tformifls, who too much
influenced hhn, by the Addition of new
Scruples. And we tnay alfo afcribe
fotnewhat to Prejudice of Pducatio7t
m unhappy Thnes.

Having now deft his Fellowfhip,
and vihted moft Parts of his own
Country, he was minded to fee what
Nature afforded in foreign , Parts.
And accordingly I find Mr. Willughby
and him confulting, towards the latter
End of this Year, about travelling

C the

i8 The'Liv^ of Mr. KKY.

the next Spring, and confidering
whom they fhould invite to go with
them (3) ; and having perfuaded Mr.
Skippon (afterwards Sir Philip) and
Mr. Nathaniel Bacon (two of Mr,
Ray s Pupils), to go along with them,
they all Four, next Spring, viz. on
April the i8th, 1663, went over
from Dover to Calais., and from
thence through divers Parts of Eu-
rope ^ which I but barely mention,
as Mr. Ray himfelf, in the Year 1673,
publifhed the Obfervations they made
in that Tour.

Towards the latter End of their
Journey, Mr. Willughby and Mr.
Ray parted Company, the former
paffing through Spain, and Mr. Ray
from Montpelier, through France, in-

(3) See the Preface to Mr. Ray\ "foreign
Travels.

to

'The L I F E Mr. RAY. 19

to England., where he arrived about
the Beginning of March, 1665-6.

How he fpent his Time after his
Arrival in his own Country, may
be feen in a Letter of his to Dr. Lif-
ter, of June the i8th, 1667, in
which he faith, For my own Part, I
cannot boafi of many Dfcoveries made
the lajl Year, fave of mine own Er-
rors. After I took my Leave of you
at Cambridge, I divided the Remain-
der of the Rummer between Effex and
Suflex, vfting feveral Friends. My
fpare Hours 1 be flowed in reading over
fuch Books of Natural Pbilofophy as
came out fince my being abroad, viz.
Mr. Hookh Micrographia, Mr.
Boyle’j Ufefulnefs of Natural Philo-
fophy, Origine of Forms, Hydrojla-
ticaTParadoxes, Sydenham de Febri-
bus, the- Philofophical TranfaBions,
C 2 the

20 Life o/ Mr. RAY.

the Bujtnefs about (4) great Rakes,
turning over Kircher\ Mundus fub-
terraneus, &cc. The mojl Part of the .
Winter I fpent in revietscing, and
helping to put in Order, Mr. Wil-
lughby’r ColleEiion of Birds, Fijhes, '
Shells, Stones, and other Foffds ; Seeds,
dried Plants, Coins, &c. ; in giving
what Affifattce I could to Dr. Wil-
kins, in framing his Tables of Plants,
Quadrupeds, Birds, Fifoes, &c. for
the Ufe oj the mtiverjal CharaEler
in gathermg up into a Catalogue all
fuch Plants as I had found at atty
time growing wild in England, not'
in order to the prefent Publifking of
them, but for my own Uje', pojftbly
otte Day they may fee the Fight', at
prefent the IV irld is glutted with Dr,
Merret’r bimgling Pinax. I refolve..

(4) They are now come into general Ufe
among the Farmers, and are called Drag-Rakes,

7uver

77)6 hi V?. of Mr. RAY. 21

never to put out any Thing which is
not as perfeSi as is pofftble for me to
make it, I wifh you. would take a lit-

tle Pains this Summer about Grajfes,
that fo we might compare Notes ; for
I would fain clear and complete their

Hiftory. 1 mtend this Summer to

travel farther ^ either Northward or
Weftward., or both,, in quefl of Plants
and Pipes.

Thefe Tables, .which Mr. Ray
faith were framed for Bifhop Wilkins.y
were partly drawn up by Mr. IVil-
lughby and Mr. Ray., who were the
beft able- of any- Men living for fuch
an Undertaking : But yet, when they
had done it,. I find they- were not
well plealed with it, thinking it im-
. perfect, and capable of great Amend-
ments; which they afterwards gave
it, in their Hiftories of Plants and
Animals. -But it is not at ail to be
C 3 •pondered.,'

2 2 The L,iv% of Mr. R A Y.

wondered at, that fuch an Account
fliould be defedtive at the Beginning,
before they had fully . weighed and
conhdered fo new a Subiedt, as that
was, at that time, a Part of Learn-
ing but little ftudied and cultivated,
that lay confufed, and without any,
or no better than no Method; but
which thofe two great Men fo cleared
up, methodized, and advanced, that
to them may be aferibed a great deal
of that Perfedlion to which Natural
Hiftory is now arrived.

Having traced our great Man’s
Life to the Year 1667, and 39th
Year of his Age, the next Thing I
meet with is his farther Profecution
of his Refearches into the Hiftory of
Nature, the Summer of this Year,
by another Journey into the Weft of
England., in Company with his moft
honoured and beloved Friend Mr.

. Willu'ghby.

The hi of Mr. RAY. 23

JVillughby. They fet out from Mr.
TVillughby's, Seat at Middleton-P ark '
in Warwickfoire., on fum the 25 th,
1667, and travelled through the
Counties of Worcefter^ Hereford.^
Gloucejier., Somerfet., and Devon., into
Cornwall, as far as the Land’s-End,
where they arrived Augufl the 17th;
and theix returned through Hants to.
London, on September the 13 th fol-
lowing. In this Journey they defcri-
bed many Fowls, Filhes, and Plants,
and took Notes of the Mines, the
Way of fmelting Metals, making
Salt, and divers other Things, which
I find iix Mr. Ray% Diary of that

By this Time Mr., Ray had much
fignalized himfelf for his great Skill
in curious Matters, and therefore was
importuned to come into the Royal
Society, and accordingly he was ad-
C 4. ' mitted.

24 7^^ Life o/ Mr. RAY.

mitted Fellow, on November the
7 th ; and in the lame Month, viz.
November the i6th, being (5) foli-
cited by Dean Wilkins to tranllate his
real CharaEier into Latin., heconfented
to do it : And indeed he was one of
the htteft Men living to undertake it,
on the Account of his being a com-
plete Mafter of that Language, as
well as excellent in that kind of
Learning. This Work he laboured
at for a good while ; and although
very heavy, he accompliflied it, as I
find by the original Manufcript,
which is now in the Library of the
Loyal Society, ready for the Prefs, if
any Mcecenas Ihould have a Mind to
jet it fee the Light.

Having fpent the latter End of this
Year, and the Beginning of 1668,

(5) As appears by a Memorandum in Mr.
Rafs, own Hand-Writing.

with

7^5 Life ^ Mr. RAY. 25

with his Friends Mr. Btirrel and
Mr. Coicrthope, at Danny in Suffex.^.
and Sir Robert Barnhamy at BoElon
in Ke7it^ (all three his Pupils at Trmity )
and Mr. Willughby in War’iaickJJyire ;
he then, in yuly follov/ing, began
another Journey alone by himfelf (his
Friend Mr. Willughby being then
newly married) into Torkjhire and
Wefimoreland.) where he deferibed -
many Plants, Fowls, ^c. and then
returned in Septetnber to Middleton-
Hall, where he Ipent mod of the
following Winter with his Friend Mr. '

In the following Spring, thofe two
'great Virtuofos entered upon thofe
Experiments about the Tapping of
Trees, and the Afcent and Defcent of
their Sap ; which are pubiilhed in
the Philofophical TranfaSlions, and
may be met with together in Mr.

Lowthojf s

26 'The'Liv^ of Mr. RAY.

Lowthorp\. Abridgement, Vol. II,
p. 682, Among Mr. Ray%

Obfervations, I find fome deferv-
ing Notice, not publifhed with
the reft, viz. T^hat the Sap of any
‘Tree., rimning down the Side of the
Tree, or dropping long on one Place,
will precipitate a Kind of White
Coagulum, or Jelly ; which may be
well conceived to be the Part which,
every Year, between Bark and
Tree, turns to Wood, attd of which
the Leaves and Fruit are made.
And it feems to precipitate more
when' the Tree is jufi ready to
put out Leaves, and begins to ceafe
dropping, than at its Firfl Bleeds
ing.

A Second Obfervation is. That the
Sap afcends, ttot only between the Bark
and Tree, but by all the Pores of the
Wood, (which they had demonftrated

in

T^e'Liv^ of Mr. RAY. 27

in the printed Account from another
Obfervation) and that this is unde?tia-
bly proved., by boreing, in the fame
“Tree, Holes of feveral Depths, or the
fame Hole double the Depth. For,
from an Hole, fuppofe of two Inches ■
Depth, will ijfue near double the ^uan-
tity of what proceeds fro??i an Hole of
one Inch Depth. So from the fame
Hole, if it be bored on to double the
Depth it had, will iffue double the
Liquor that at firfl did.

. Another Experiment was, for a
farther Proof of the Sap’s Afcent
through the woody Part of the Tree.
Lo put it out of all Doubt (faith Mr.
Ray) we took away, on one Side of 'a
Firch-tree, Bark a?td Wood to a
conf derable Depth, and bored an
Hole into the Free, where the Piece
was taken away', out of which Hole
■ it bled vopioufy, notwithflanding

we

t

2 8 n^e L I F E Mr. RAY.

About this Time Mr. Ray (that he
might make his Journeys as ufeful to
the World as they had been enter-
taining to himfelf) began to draw up
his Obfervations for the Ufe of the
Public. And one of the Firft Things
he fet upon was his ColleSHon of Pro-
verbs; which he digefted into the

(6) Another Obfervation I meet with in this
Year, or rather the Beginning of i66g, is an
Account from Mr. Jennings^ the High Sheriff
of Warwickjhire that Year, viz, “ That if,
among the Charcoal wherewith they melt
their Iron-Mine, there be any confiderable
Quantity made of Holly,, it will make the
Iron brittle, and have the fame Effed upon
it that any 'Sort of Pyrites, mixed with Pit-
coal or Sea*coal hath. But if the Holly be
“ barked before it be charred^ or made into
V Coal, it v/ill have no fuch Effe6l.’^

we carefully prevented any other Sap
coming o?t the Filter^ but what
ceeded from the Hole (6).

moft

7^5 Life ^ Mr. RAY. 29

moft convenient Method he could, for
the more eafy and Ipeedy finding
them on Occafion. This Book,
although about this Time fitted up
for the Prefs, and fent to Cambridge
to be there printed, in i66g, yet was
not publifhed till the Year 1672.

In this Year i66g, Mr. Ray pre-
pared alfo his Catalogue- of Englifh
Plants for the Prefs ; which was Firft
publifhed in the Year 1670, and
afterwards in 1677. His humble
Thoughts of which, and his other
Books, may be feen in a Latin Let-
ter of- his to Dr. Lifer of Augufthc
22d, 1670 (7).

I

In the fame Letter he alfo takes
Notice of his altering his Name, by

(7) See the Philofofhkal Letters above quoted,

p. 71.

leaving

30 rhe^iv-E. of Mr. RAY.

leaving out the PF' in the Beginning
of it. This Way of writing his
Name JVray., was what he had ufed
all the time he was in the Univer-
fety., at kail whilfl he was at Trinity.,-
his Name being always with a Wm
the College '"Regifter. And fo in the
Philofophical TranfaSlions, before the
Year 1670, he writes his Name
TVray. But this being, he faith,
contrary to the Way of his Fore-
fathers writing their Names, he
therefore re-ailumed the Name of
Kay. And in all Probability this he
took to be the trued V/ay of writ-,
ing it, as being derived from fiich
Places as bear the Name of- Ray, as
the Ray-Field, the Ray-Houfe, the-
Ray-Mead, &c. Which is appro-
priated to Places adjoining to navi-
gable (but not exclufive of other)
Rivers, where People Row, or pals
along with Boats ; and is derived, I

conceive,

The hiv^ of Mr. RAY. 31

conceive, from the Saxoit Word jiej>an,
reniigare., to row, or jieatte, remi-
giunty an Oar.

In the fame Letter he mentions
another Thing relating to himfelf,
which was an Offer of 200 Pounds
per Annumy to travel with three
young Noblemen into foreign Parts.
This Propofal he had once a Mind
to have come into, and the rather,
that he might review the Alpine
Plants : but upon more ferious Con-
fideration, he thought fit to Ipare his
weakly Body, and ftay at Home-;
being modulo contentusy or, as Me-
lantus in Homer faith,

Airi^cov a'/CoAss, ovk olopM, aS'e Ae/3»Tcts.

Odyf. 17.

For a Clofe of thefe two Years,
1669 and 1670, I fhall take Notice
of an Article which I meet with
4 among

32 ThehiFEof Mr. RAY.

among Mr. Ray & Notes in thefe Years ;
•viz. OSiober the 14th, 1669.
rode to fee the famous Fir-trees., fome
tv:o Miles and a Half difant from
Newport, in a Village called Ware-
ton (in Shropfliire) in the Land of
Mr. Skrimlliaw. Lhere are of them
’Thirty-fve in Number, very tall and
firait, voithout any Boughs, till to-
wards the Lop. The greatef, and
which feems to have bee/i the Mother
of the ref, we found, by Meafure,
to be Fourtee7i Feet a77d an half
round the Body, and they fay Fifty-
fx Yards high', which to me feemed
not incredible. Lhe Letiani’ s Nafne
of the Houfe, clofe by thefe Fh'-trees,
is Fir-child, whofe A?icefors have been
Lenarits to it for ma7ty Getter atio77s.

The next Year, viz. in the Spring
of 1671, Mr. was afflicted with
a feveriflr Diforder, wdiich ended in

the

‘The Life Mr. RAY. 33

the Yellow Jaundice: But he was
foon cured of it, by an Infuhon of
Stone-Horfe Dung with Saffron in
Ale (8).

I

All the Firft Months of this Year
1671, he tried many Experiments
about the Bleeding of Trees, till the
warmer Spring Months invited him
out to vifit divers of his Friends and
Acquaintance.

Returning from this Journey to
Middleton., and having refted him-
felf there about Eight or Nine Days,
he began another Simpling Journey
into the North, on^z«;^the 3d, 1671,
taking Thotnas TVillifel (9) along with

him.

(8) See Mr. Ray\ Letter to Dr. Lifter^ June
the 28 th 1671, in the FhilofophicaV Letters above
quoted,

(9) A Perfon well {killed in Botany^ who was
employed by (and was very ferviceable to) Mr.

D

34 Thel^ivv. of Mr. RAY.

him. They travelled through Der-
byfjire.y Yorkjhire.^ Wefmorland.^ Cum-
berland., and Northmtiberland., as far
as Berwick', and then back through
the Bifhoprick of Durham, again to
Middleton.

But a Stop was foon put to thefe
his good Dehgns, by Mr. Willughby,
falling very dangeroully ill the very
next Month, firfl with a violent Pain
in his Head, which, by uhng Diaf-
cordium, fell into his Bread, and
became a Pleurify ; which fliifted to
a Fever ; and that remitting, he grew
better ; but returning, it carried him

Bjay^ in colle6i;ing (and fending him the Defcrip-
tions) of PlantSy &c. in Journeys he took over
England for that Purpofe. See the aforefaid
Philofophical Letters^ p. 351. What Opinion
Mr. i^^j 'had of y\x, Willi feT^ Judgment, may
be feen in a Letter of Mr. Raf% to him, in the
fame Work, p. 358,

off,

n^ehi^^of Mr. RAY. 35

off, on yuly the 3d 1672, at Middle-
ton-Hall, to the infinite and unfpeak-
able Lofs and Grief (fays Mr. Ray)
of myfelf, his Friends, and all good
Men;

Thus was the World deprived of
this great and good Man, in his very
Prime; for he was taken off in the
37th Year of his Age, His Exam-
ple deferves the Imitation of every
Perfon of great Eftate and Honour.
For he was a Man whom God had
blefled with a very plentiful Eftate,
and with excellent Parts, capable of
making him ufeful to the World. And
accordingly he negle<fted no Oppor-
tunity of being fo. He did not (as
the Fafhion too much is) depend upon
his Riches, and fpend his Time in
Sloth, or Sports, idle Company-keep-
ing, and Luxury ; but pracftifing W'hat
was laudable and good, what might
D 2 be

I

36 'The 'Ll? v. of Mr. RAY.

be of Service to Mankind. ’ And
among other virtuous Employments,
one he much delighted in was the
fearching after, and defcribing of,
Animals ( Birds ^ Beafis.^ Fifjes., and
InfeSis which Province he had taken
for his Talk, as Mr. Raj had that of
Plants. And in thefe Matters he
was a great Mafter, as he was alfo in
Plants.^ FoJJilsy and, in fliort, the whole
HiJlorj of Nature ; to which I may
add that of Coins, and moft other
curious Parts of Learning. And in
the Purfuit and Acqueft of this
Knowledge he ftuck neither at any
Labour or Coft. Noble Monuments
of which he left behind him, in thole
pofthumous Pieces which Mr. Raj
afterwards publilhed ; of which I
fhall have Occalion to fpeak here-
after.

There

Tide Life Mr. RAY. 37

There being the greateft Intimacy
and Friendfhip contradled between
Mr. IVillughby and Mr. Ray., from
the Time of their being Fellow-
Collegians at 'Trinity-College, Mr.
TVillughhy, therefore, not only con-
fided in Mr. Ray in his Life time,
but at his Death alfo, leaving him
one of the five Executors of his Will ;
Sir Thomas Wendy, Mr. Barnard,
Mr. Philip Skippoft (afterwards Sir
Philip), and Mr. “Jeffop, being the
other Four. And, as a fpecial Mark
of his Friendfhip and Confidence,
he left Mr. Ray Sixty Pounds a Year
during his Life, and charged him
with the Care of the Education of
his Sons, Francis and Thomas, the
elder of which, dying before he came
of Age, the younger became Lord
Middleton. Thefe two Gentlemen
being then - very young (the eldeft
not Four. Years of Age), Mr. Ray, as
D 3 a faith-

38 T^he Life <?/ Mr. RAY.

a faithful Truftee, betook himfelf to
the Inftrudtion of them; and Mrs.
Ray herfelf alfo (after their Marriage)
was an Afiiftant in this Matter, fhe
being the Perfon that taught Lord
Middleton his Letters, and to read
EnglijJj.

For the Sake and Service of thefe
two young Gentlemen, Mr. Ray com-
pofed his Nomenclator Clajftcus.^ which
was firft publifhed in this very Year
1672. And the Reafon why he
compoled this Book, when many
others were extant, was becaule there
were Multitudes of Errors in all No-
menclatures then in Ufe, elpecially
in the Names of Animals and Plants.
And as he was the beft able of any
Man living to affign the true Mean-
ing of both the Latin and Greek
Names, fo it was a very ufeful and
valuable Talk he undertook j fervice-

able,^

The Life of Mr. RAY. 39

able, not only to School- boys, but
to the Amendment of our Didion-
aries and Lexicons, as may be feen
in fome of the beft of them that have
been publifhed fince that Time. In
moft of which, I obferve, that they
make Ufe of the Significations of
Words afilgned by Mr. Willughby
and Mr. Ray (which fcarce ever was
done before by the old Grammarians);
but yet fometimes they cannot forbear
approving of the old Signification,
which inveterate Cuftom hath made
familiar to them.

Having this Truft repofed in him,
Mr. Ray was forced to lay afide the
Thoughts he had of another Weftern
Simpling Journey, and indeed of all
Journeys of that Kind, he thinking
it his Duty to be as aflifiant to his
dear Friend’s Family as he could.
For which Reafon he much confined
D 4 him-

40 The 'Ll? z of Mr. KAY.

himfelf to Middleton-Hall •, and the
Journeys he took were about Mat-
ters relating to his Truft.

Immediately after Mr. Willughby %
Death, Dr. Lifer invited Mr. Ray
to come and live with him at Torb;
but nothing could draw him from the
faithful Attendance on his Truft.

Not many Months after the Death
of Mr. Willughby.) Mr. Ray loft an-
other of his beft Friends, Bifhop Wil-
kins ; whom he viftted in London., on
November tL\£. i8th, 1672, and found
hirn near Death, by a total Suppref-
llon of Urine for Eight Days j and
the next Morning, November the 1 9th,
about Four of the Clock, that great
Man died, to Mr. Rays unfpeakable
Lofs and Grief, as he exprefleth it.

\

Mr.

Tlje hivs. of Mr. RAY. 41

Mr. Ray having thus loft fome of
his heft Friends, and being in a Man-
ner left deftitute, began to have .
Thoughts of Marriage, having met
with a young Gentlewoman (then in
the Family he was in) of about Twenty
Years of Age; whole Piety, Difcre-
tion, and Virtues, recommended her
to him, as well as her Perfon. Fler
Name was Margaret., the Daughter
of Mr. fobn Oakeley, of Launton in
Oxfcrdjhire, a Gentleman of a younger
Branch of a Family of that Name in
Shropjhire. They were married in
Middleton Church, on fune the 5 th
1673, by the Reverend Mr. Antro-
bus, Minifter of the Parifh.

I

Towards the latter End of this
Year 1673, Mr. Ray's Obfervations
Typographical, Moral, See. came forth,
and therewith his Catalogus Stirpium
in extern Regionibus, a nobis obferva-

tarum.

42 iTje 'Ll 'P’E of Mr. RAY.

tarum. For the Sake of which lat-
ter Piece, in a great Meafure, it was
that he publifhed the former, becaufe
he thought the latter too fmall and
jejune to go alone into the World.

About the fame Time alfo was
publifhed, his ColleSHon of unufual.^
or local Englifh W ords ; which he
had gathered up in his Travels thro’
the Counties of England. And the
Reafon why he publifhed them was,
not barely becaufe it was a new Sub-
je£l, that might amufe the Curious,
but alfo be of good Ufo to Strangers
that fhould have Occafion to vifit
thofe Parts, or have Dealings there.
And to make this Book the more
acceptable to the Buyers, as well
as a little more bulky, he added
to the Firft Edition, a Catalogue
of Englifh Birds and Fifhes, and
the Way of Smelting and Refining
2 fuch

7^^ Life of Mr. RAY. 43

fuch Metals and Minerals as England
doth produce. But the Birds and
Fifhes were left out in the Second
Edition of this Book, in the Year
1691, by reafon the Catalogue was
imperfed, and becaufe Mr. Ray had
not only publifhed a better Account
of thofe Animals, but alfo intended
to draw up a' methodical Synophs of
all the Englijh together

with the Foffils. Unto which ufe-
ful Undertaking he was folicited by
fome of his learned Friends, parti-
cularly Dr. Tancred Robinfon.

In the Year 1674 following, Mr.
Oldenburgh^ the Secretary of the Royal
Society (who had for fome Time in-
termitted the Correfpondence which
he before had with Mr. Ray).^ began
now to renew it again, by Letters
fent almofl: every Month. He was a
yery diligent Secretary, and labpured

very

44 hivi^ of Mr, RAY.

very heartily to keep up the Society’s
Correlpondence, and get all the In-
formation he could about curious Mat-
ters, from all Perfons that he knew,
or heard, were able to furnifh him
with any. And the better to ac-
complifh his Ends, he would fend
his ingenious Correfpondents an Ac-
count of Matters that came to his
Knowledge, as well as exped a plen-
tiful Return from them. And fuch
are the Letters which Mr. Ray abun-
dantly anfwered ; fome of which
Accounts Mr. Oldenburgh publilhed
in the Philofophical ‘Tranfa&ions,^ as
about St. Paul's Bat toons,, the. P"ro-
chites of Muforoonts, Maize, the
Mifchiefs of fome poifonous Plants,
the Bleeding of Tdrees, and Motion of
their Sap, fpontaneous Generation,
mujk-fcented InfeSls, the Scolopendra,
the acid fuice of Pifmires, the Dart-
ing of Spiders, the Anatomy of the

TToe Life ^ Mr. RAY. 45

P,orpus, the Air-bladder in Fijhes.,
the (10) Macreufe^ and the Wood-
cracker ; many or moft of which
Particulars Mr. Oldenburgh inferted
in his Tranfadlions. But Mr. Olden-
burgh had a farther End in his fre-
quent Correfpondence with Mr. Ray^
which was to get him into the Com-
pany of thofe leading diligent Mem-
bers (ii), who had made an Agree-
ment to entertain the Society with a
Philofjophical Difcourfe at their Meet-
ings, that fo the Burden might not
lie on tv/o or three, or a few Mem-
bers only. Which Requeft Mr. Ray
readily complied with, and accord-
ingly fent him a Difcourfe concerning
Seedsy and the fpecijick Differences

(10) See the Pbilofophical Letters before mea^
tioned, p. 147 — 8.

(11) See p. 126 — 7, of the aforefaid Philo-
fophical Letters.

of

46 rhe Life of Mr. RAY. .

of Plants \ which Mr. Oldenburgh^
in his Letter of December the 21ft,
1674 (12), tells him was fo well re-
ceived by the Prehdent and thofe
prefent, that they returned him their
Thanks, and dehred him to let them
have more of the like Favours from
him.

During this Year 1674, and Part
of the next, Mr. Ray took a great
deal of Pains to prepare Mr. TVil-
lughby\ Obfervations about Birds for
the Prefs.

Thefe Obfervations Mr. Willughby
had rhapfodically written in Datin.y
as he did moft of his other Things 5
and for this Realbn it was firft pub-
lilhed in that Language, in the lat-
ter End of the Year 1675. And

(i2) Stz PMlofopbical Letters, p. 131.

although

The of Mr. RAY. 47

although Mr. Willughby had done a
great deal, yet Mr. Ray was at no
fmall Labour to finifh the Book, by
reviling the whole, digefting it into
Order, and fupplying from Authors,
and his own Obfervations, what was
wanting therein, Mr. Willughby not
having had Time to do it. For
although he was a moll; indefatiga-'
ble Man, and had done more for his
Ihort Time than could be expedted,
and carried his Obfervations to a great
Degree of Perfedtion, yet they re-
quired more polifhing than it was
poflible for him to give them, by
realbn of his being fnatched away
(as I have laid before) at a Time of
Life the moll proper for the finilhing
that Part of the noble and ufeful
Defign, which, by Agreement bcr
tween him and Mr. Ray., fell to his
Share; which was difpatching the
Hiflory of Animals. Of which De-

48 7}>e Life Mr. RAY.

%

fign it may not be improper here to
give fome Account, which I fhall
do, as I had it from Mr. Ray him-
felf, when I waited upon him at
Black-Notley^ May the 15 th, 1704;
viz.

Thele two Gentlemen, finding the
Hiftory of Nature very imperfed:,
had agreed between themfelves, be-
fore their Travels beyond Sea, to re-
duce the feveral Tribes of Things
to a Method; and to give accurate
Defcriptions of the feveral Species,
from a ftrid View of them. And

f

forafmuch as Mr. JVillughby\ Genius-
lay chiefly to Animals, therefore he
undertook the Birdsy Beaftsy Fijhesy
znd' htfe&Sy as Mr. Ray did Ve-
getables. And how each of thefe ■
two great Men difcharged his Pro-
vince, the World hath leen in their
Works. Which fhew, that Mr. Ray

lived

T'he L I F E' o/" Mr. R AY. 49

lived to bring his Part to great Per-
fedlion ; and that Mr. TVillughby car-
ried his as far as the utmoft Applica-
tion and' Diligence of a Ihort Life
could enable him.'

. And .now, having mentioned the
Diligence of this great Man, let me
add, .that, it was ,fuch; and his La-
bours {o inceflaht in his Studies, that
he allowed himfelf little or no Time
for thofe Recreations and Diverlions
which Men of his .Eftate and Degree
are apt to fpend too much, of - their
Time in ; but he profecuted his De-
lign with as great Application, as if
he had been- to get his Bread thereby.
All which I mention, not only out
of’ the great R.efpedt I bear to, Mr.
Willughby\ Memory, but .for an
Example (as has been before recorn-
mended) to Perfons of great Eftate
and Quality, that they may be ex-

E cited

5© 7%e h\v'£. of Mr. RAY.

cited to anfwer the Ends for which
God gives them Eftates, Leifure,
Parts, and Gifts, or a good Genius:
Which was not to exercife themfelves
in vain or finful Follies, but to be
- employed for the Glory, and in the
Service, of the Infinite Creator, and
in doing good Offices in the World,
particularly fuch as tend to the Cre-
dit and Profit of their own Families.

But to return to the Ornithology.
After Mr. Ray had publilhed it (as I
faid) in Latin, he fet about tranflat-
ing it into Englijh j which, when he
had finifhed, he publifhed in the
Year 1678, with large Additions,
together with the Figures of the
Birds, which Mr. JVillughby % Widow
was at the Charge of - engraving.
And, confidering how well the En-
paid for their Labour,

it

gravers were

TheX^i'^zof Mr. RAY. 51

it is great Pity they had not had fome
able Perfon in London to have fuper-
vifed them, that they might have
given better Likenefies to the Birds
than what moft of them have. But
this is what Mr. Ray could only com-
plain of, but not help, by reaibn
of his being in Warwickjhire^ at a
Diftance from London ^ where every
Thing was tranfadled by Letters ; a
Method which could never alford
fufficient Diredlions in a Matter of
that Nature.

Having given an Account of the
Publication of the Ornithology in 1 6 75
and 1678, let us return again to the
Years 1675 and 1676; about
which Time the old Lady Willughby
(Mother of Mr. Francis Willughby)-
died, and Mr. Willughby % Sons being
removed from under Mr. Ray % Tui-
E 2 tion

52 rhehiv^'of Mr. KKY.

tion (13), he thought it beft to leave
■Middletm-Hall, and retire with his
Wife to fome other convenient Place ;
and accordingly he removed to Sut-
ton Cojieldy about B'our Miles from
-Middleton % where he continued till
Michaelmas 1677, and then remov-
ed into EJfeXy to Falborne-Hall., not
far from his native Place, Black-
Notley.

During his Abode there, his Mo-
ther, Mrs. Elizabeth Ray, died at
Black-Notley. She was a very reli-
gious and good Woman, and of great
Ule in' her Neighbourhood, particu-
. larly to her Neighbours that were lame
or lick, among whom fhe did great

(13) How faithful he was in the Difcharge of
.his Truit, and the great Concern he had for the
Welfare of his Pupils, ftrongly appears from the
elegant Latin Inftrii6lions addrelTed to them, in-
.ferted at the End of this Volume.

Good,

'The Life of Mr. RAY. 53

Good, efpecially in Chirurgical Mat-
ters. Her Death was much lament-
ed by all Sorts of Perfons in
Neighbourhood (14).

Mr. Ray having continued at Fal- ‘
horfte-Hall a Year arid Three Quar-
ters, on fune the 24th 1679 (15),

he

I

(14) Concerning her, I find this Note of Mr.

Rafs^ viz. March tht 15th, 1678, being *S^-
“ turday.^ departed this Life, my moft dear and ‘

** honoured Mother Elizabeth Ray., of Black-
“ Notley., in her Houfe on Dewlands^ in the Hall-

Chamber, about Three of the Clock in the
Afternoon, aged, as 1 fiippofe, Seventy-eight:

“ Whofe Death, for fome Confiderations, was
“ a great Wound to me. Yet have I good
Hope that her Soul is received to the Mercy of
“ God, and her Sins pardoned, through the
“ Merits and Mediation of Jefus Chriji.;m whom>

(he trufled, and whofe Servant fhc hath becn»
from her Youth up, fticking conftantly to hep
“ Profejfion., and never leaving the Church in thefe
’Eimes of Giddmefs and DiJiraEtionP

(15) Mr. takes Notice, that, on July
the 7th following, there fell the llrangeft Flail-

E j floncs

her .

-

/ ^

S

'NX

54 7^^ Life 0/ Mr. RAY.

he and his Family removed to Black-^
Notley, where (faith he in his Remark ■
on that Removal) / intend^ God will-
ingf to fettle for the fhort Pittance
of ‘Time I have yet to live in this
World. And accordingly he made
his Words good,

Being fettled at Black-Notley^ and
by tbat means eafed of the DiL-
quietude and Interruptions in his
Studies, which he had met with the
Four dr Five laft Years, by his Re-r
moval from Place to Place, he then
began to refume his wonted Labours,
and particularly in Botany, And
one of the firft Things he finifhed

ftones he ever faw, being of extraordinary
Bignefs, and of irregular Figures, fcarce any
two alike *, pellucid throughout like great Pieces
of Ice, ipany of them having feveral Jong'
Snags iflliing out of the Body of them. They
fell in a great Tempeft of Thunder and
^ ^Lightning.’-

was

/

Life Mr. RAY. 55

was his Methodus Plant arum nova ;
which was publifhed in the Year
1682.

The Reafon of Mr. Rady's fetting
about this Work was this. He had
for fome Years much fignalized his
Skill in Botany^ and was therefore,
by fome of his learned Friends, put
upon writing a General Hijlory of
Plants.^ . particularly, the Honourable ,
Captain Hatton, a fkilful .Botanift,
recommended this Work very ear-
neftly to him. To whom, for this
Reafon, Mr. Ray dedicated the Firll
Volume of his Hijlor. Plantar, ge-
neralise which, after he had laboured
at for fome conliderable Time, the
Firft Volume was publifhed in fune
1686. And about the fame Time
alfo the Second Volume was fent to
the Prefs, but was not finifhed there
till the latter End of 1687.

To

56 7%e 'Live cf Mr. RAY;

£0 the compiling this Hiftory,
many learned and . ingenious Men.
gave their helping Hand ; but none,
laboured more in it than Mr. Ray
two great Friends, Sir Hans Shane
and Dr, TSancred Robinfon., who were
perpetually fome Way or other
aiding to the Completion of the
heavy Work.

Neither did Mr. Ray take Care
only of his own Books, but he con-
tinued to be mindful of what Mr.
Willughby left behind him, particu-
larly of what he had done about
Fifties. Which, being noble Mate^
rials, but indigefted and confufed, '
Mr. Ray was at no fmall Trouble to
put them into that complete Order
that . was necefiary for the Prefs :
Which he had done about the Year.
1684, as he faith in a Letter to Dr.
Xancred Robinfon., of February the

- 1 8th

lle'Lwv. of Mr. RAY. 57

18th 1684. Where he tells him,
that he had extraEled' out of Mr,
Willughby’j 'Papersy revifedy fup~
pliedy methodizedy and fitted for, the
Prefsy the Ichthyology ; and promiled
to fend it to the Dodlor. And it
being accordingly foon after fent, it
was by him communicated to the
Royal Society ; who thinking lb good
a Work worthy to be publifhed, did,
by the Help of Bilhop Felly get it
printed at the Theatre in Oxfordy the
Royal Society bearing the Charge, and ■
the Cuts being engraved at the Coft
of divers worthy Members of that
illuftrious Body.

In fuly 1685 this Book was put
to the Prefs, and in April following
it was finifhed and came abroad.

This Hijlory of Fijhesy as well as
that of Birds (although the com-
8 pleteff

58 77)ehiv^ of Mr. RAY.

pleteft in their Kinds of any extant)
loft a great deal of their Perfedtion,
by the unfortunate Mifcarriage of
Mr. Willughby\ and Mr. Ray\ Pa-
pers in their Travels j who had very
accurately defcribed all the Birdsy
Fijhes^ &c. which they faw, as they
pafled through High and Low Ger-
many., efpecially thole in and upon
the Danube and the Rhine ; but loft
them in their Return from thence
{16).

Mr. Ray having now for fome
Years betaken himfelf to a retired,
ftudious, and fedentary Way of liv-
ing, efpecially after his coming to
Black-Notley, began to fuffer in his
Health, being often vexed with a
troublefome Diarrhaea, and, after Ibme

(16) This Mr. laments in p. 180,181. of
the before«mentioned Philofophical Letters.

tiniCj

'The\j\'i% of Mr, RAY»_ 59

time, with Eruptions in his Legs,
which were often very irkfome to
him, by their immoderate Itching,
and fbmetimes Swelling and Inflam-
mation (17).

By this Time Mr. Ray % Catalogue
of Englilh Plants was grown fcarce,
and was much called for. Upon
which he was greatly foKcited, by
his ingenious Friends, to, review and
improve that Book for a Third Edi-
tion, which he confented to. But
there ariflng a Difference between

(17) About the firft coming of them, he tells
Dr. Tancred Robinfon,^ in a Letter of April the
8th 1687, that he was pretty well eafedof his
Pain, and the Pruritus was abated, which he
could aferibe to nothing but the Ufe of Holy-
hock Leaves boiled in May Butter, with which
he anointed the Eruptions the Night before j
and wonders that fuch a fimple Ointment fhould
not only abate the outward Heat and Itching,
** but remove the inward Pain in the Mufcles.”

him

I

t

6o~ "The Life c/" Mr. RAY.

him and the Bookfellefs, who had
the Right of the Copy, concerning
a Third Edition, and they, not with-,
out Ibme ill Behaviour, flighting
that Book, and Mr. Ray\ Improve-
ments, and threatening to trouble
any who Ihould dare to re-print it ;
this, I fay, put Mr. Ray upon a bet-
ter Projedl, which was to'publifh it
in another and better Form, agree-
able to the Method of Nature ; viz.
that of a Synopjis of Englijh Vege-
tables, fit for the Pocket, and not in
an Alphabetical Orderj as his Cata-
logue was. But to fatisfy the Impor-
tunity of his Friends, he, inftead of
his Catalogue, publifiied his Fafcicu-
lus Stirpium Britannicarum pojl edi-
tum C at alogum Plantar uni f This

was publifiied in the Year 1688, and
therein he promifed his Synopjis ;
which he accordingly got ready be-
fore the Year was expired j but be-
tween

The Life ^ Mr, RAY. 6i

tween the Delays and Tricks of the
Bookfeller and Printer (efpecially of
the latter), it lay fo long in the Prefs,
that Mr. Ray\ Friends in London had
a Sufpicion that they intended to
have ftifled the Book: But it was
intirely finifhed at the Prefs in May
1690, and publifhed not long after.

This Synopjis Methodica Stirpium
Britannicarum was very acceptable'
among all the Botanifts,' and is to
this Day made their Pocket Compa-
nion on all their Simpling Occahons.
And although Mr'. Ray had added
to, and much improved, his Cata-
logues-, yet was not his Synopjis fo per-
fect, but to be capable of farther
Improvements. In order to which,
many of our Botanifts fent him Cata-
logues of Plants he had omitted,
and advertifed him of fuch Errors as
he had made. By which mieans, as

foon

62 The'Li'Bz of Mr. RAY.

fbon as this Edition was fold off, an-
other was publiflied in 1696, with
divers Amendments, and an Addition
of, above an Hundred more Species,
together with a fuccin£t Hiftory and
Method of the heretofore difregarded
and negleded Tribes of Mojfes^
Mujhrooms^ and Sea-plantSi called
Fuci.

But to return to the Year 1690,
where we left off. Mr. Ray^ having
thus publifhed many Books, on Sub-
jedts which he took to be fomewhat
alien to his Profeffion (which, as I
faid, was Divinity), to make fome
amends (as -he thought) and entertain
the World like himfelf, i. e.. like a
Divine and a Naturalift both, he fet
about his incomparable Demo7iJira-
tion of the Being and Attributes of
Godj which he calls, Fhe Wifdom of
God manifefed in the Works of the

. Creation.

7%ehivEof Mr. RAY. 63

Creation. The Rudiments of which
Book were laid in fome College Lec-
tures (called Common-places) which
he, when Fellow of ‘Trinity ^ had
read in the College Chapel. And
having much refined and enlarged thefe
Common-places, and fitted them up
for a convenient Volume, he fent the
Copy to his old trufty Friend Dr.
Tancred Robinfonf on March the 3d

1690, to be dilpofed of by him as
he thought fit ; who foon put it into
the Bookfeller’s Hands, and Five
Hundred of them were accordingly
printed and publifhed in the Year

1691.

This Book was fo well received by
the Public, that it foon got univerfal
Applaufe, and the Imprefilon was
prefently fold off, fo that it came to
a much greater Imprefilon the Year
following, and afterwards to other

Editions

64 Life of 'Mr. RAY.

Editions in 1761, 1704, 1709, arid
1714, with large. Additions (18).

This ■ Book taking fo well, and
correlponding heft with his Profef-
fion as a Divine, encouraged him to
think of publilhing another Book of
a like Nature; whofe Foundation
was alfo laid in Cambridge , and this
was his 'Three P hyfco-Theologkal Dif
courfes, concerning the Chaosy DelugCy
and Dijfolution of the JVorld. 'The
Subftance of thefe Difcourfes, or Part
-of them at leafl, had been the Subjed
of fome Sermons (as I have faid)
which he had preached at St. Mary%
before the Univerhty.

This Book was finifhed at thePrefs
in December 1692, and was alfo, as

(18) It may here be obferved, that in the Year
1700 Mr. Ray publifhed a Tra6t of pradlical
Divinity, intitled, A Perfuafive to an Holy Life,

the

7^^ Life o/ Mr. RAY. 65

the former, much bought up, fo that
it came to a fecond Edition the Year
following. And this Edition being
fold off, the Bookfeller was, in the
Year 1703, very ■ importunate with
Mr. Ray to make Additions to it for
another Impreffion: Which he was
prevailed upon to do; and, having
done it, he fent them to London,, in
April 1 704. But the principal Book-
' feller, being at that time in a very ill
State of Health, and both he and
his Partner dying not long after, the
Book with its Additions were laid
alide, until the Right of Mr. Ray%
Copies came into Mr. Innys's Hands ;
who got me to look over this Copy
(I being well acquainted with Mr.
Rays Papers) and to affift in the third
Edition, which came out in the Year

.1713-

F

As

66 Life <9/ Mr. RAY.

As to the Additions which Mr.
Uay made to this, and indeed moft
of his other Books, the chief Reafon
was, becaufe his Hands were always
full, and he uneafy till he had gone
through his Talk; and withal being
much advanced in Years, and much
afflided with Pain and troublelbme
Ulcers in his Legs, he chofe rather
to put out his Things haftily in his
Life-time, than venture them accord-
ing to Horace s good Advice,

In Metii defcendat judicis auresj

Et patris, a noftras ; nonnmque premat ur in annum*
Mepibranis intus pofitis, delere licebit,

^lod non edideris : nefcit vox mijfa reverti.

But for his farther Reafbns and Ex-
Gufes for his Additions, I refer to the
Prefaces of his two laft mentioned
Books.

Soon after thefe Theological Pieces
were publifhed, the Synopfts Metho-

dica

"The Life Mr. RAY, 67

dica Aninialium ^uadrupedum., See.
was ready for the Prefs, and fent to ,
London-y and given to the Printers in
yarMary 1692, and by them finifhed
in June following, 1693. For the
writing of which Hiflory the World
is obliged to the often before com-
mended Dr. Tancred Robinfony who,
well knowing Mr. Ray s great Abili-
ties, and how acceptable and fervice-
able his Synopfa of PlantSy and his
Method of Birds and Fijhes had been,
thought a Synopfis Methodica of all
A7timalsy and indeed of FoJJilsy and
in fliort of all Nature, would be of
very great Ufe ; and therefore he put
him upon this Work.' But a Synopfis
of this Amplitude being too operofe
for one Time, and fuch as would
make a Volume much too bulky for
the Pocket, Mr. Rxiy therefore firft
• fet upon the Quadrupeds and &r-
Tribe: And having difpatched
F 2 • that,'

68 rheLiv^ of Mr. KhY.

t3iat, he fct about a Synopfs of Birds
and Fifhss\ which having likewife
cliipatched, he fent it to Dr. ‘Tancred
Robmfon.^ on Feh'uary the 29th,
1093-4, who took all poffible Care
to have it fpeedily printed, which
was taithfully promifed ; but, either
by the Sloth or Carelelsnels of the
Bookfeilers, who had gotten the Copy,
and had paid but a fmall matter for
it, or for what other Reafons is un-
certain, they could not be prevailed
upon to print it, notwithftanding
I'hreats, as well as Intrcaties and
Perfuahons, were ufed to induce them
to it. And fo it lay fupprefled for
many Years, inlbmuch as the Copy '
was thought to have been deftroyed
or loft. But after Mr. Ray% Death,
Mr. Innys (who had purchafed thofe
Bookfeilers Stock) happening to find
the Copy among a great Parcel of
other Papers, put it into my Hands,

and

77je of Mr. RAY. 69

and I foon got it into the Prefs, and
had it publifhed in the Beginning of
the Year 1713 .

In this Synopfs, Mr. Ray added
many Species of Birds and Fifoes^
which were omitted in Mr. JF'il-
liighby ?, Hiftories of them, and much
reformed the Method of the Fijhes.
The Additions were chiefly the Birds
of Mexico ; and the Birds and Fijhes
of India., Spitzberg, fainaica, and
thofe in the Leyden Library ; and
lafily the Whale kind about Scotland.
To which I prefumed myielf to add
the F'igures, and fome fmall Account
of fome Birds and Fiflaes, which the
(kilful Mr. Petiver importuned me
to infert.

Wlien Mr. Ray had dil|)atched his
Synopfs Met/jodica Avium Pif-
cium, lie thougJit he had firiiflied his
F 3 I.,abours,

70 He Life of Mr. RAY.

Labours, and began to be much
plealed with the Thoughts of it :
But at the fame Time Rauwolff\
Havels were thought worthy of be-
ing tranflated into Englijh., and printed.
The Occafion of which was, That
Rauwolff., being a very judicious asi
well as curious Traveller, and having
written his Travels in High Dutch.,
and his Book being grown very fcarce,
-Sir Hans Shane, Captain Hatton,
and fome other conhderable Virtuo-
fos, procured the Book from the
Royal Society (few belides having it),
and got Mr. Staphorfl to tranhate it
into Englijh. But it not being
thought proper to truft the Matter
wholly to him, it was agreed to get
Mr. Ray to revife and correft the
Tranflation (19), and to add a Cata-

(19) See the 'Philofophical Letters above quoted
p. 2663

lovue

'■Hi

Thehivv. of Mr. K^Y. 71

logue of fuch Plants as grow in the
Places where Rawwolff had been.
And accordingly Mr. Ray drew up
fuch a Catalogue for the Purpofe,
viz. of Grecian and Syrian Plants^
and thofe of Egypt and Crete. Which,
with Rauwolff\ Travels, and fome
other fcarce and curious Trails, were
printed in 1693. . ,

Having mentioned tliis Catalogue
of foreign Plants, it reminds me to
take Notice next of his Sylloge StirP
pium Europcearum extra Britanniam^
which he wrote about this Tim.e.
The Occaiion of which v/as this :
His Catalogus Stirpium in exteris Re-
gio'dibus^ &c. being out of Print, the
Bookfeiiers were very prefling for an-
other Edition, with , Improvements ;
u’hich Mr. Ray was minded to gratify
them in ; and therefore to the Vege-
tables which he had himielf oblerved,
F - he

7 2 “The L I F E, o/" Mr. RAY.

he added others that he had omitted
in the Places through which he had
travelled. But his learned Friend
Dr. Tancred Robinfon^ not content
herewith, perfuaded him to make it
more complete and ufeful, by taking
in the Vegetables of all Europe^
growing out of Britain., and of all
other Parts, except India and Ame-
rica : By which means Travellers, or
others, might know what Vegetables
they might expedl in all Places where
they fhould come.

This Book was publifhed in the
Year 1694. About two Years be-
fore which Rivinus publifhed his In-
troduElion, and prefented Mr. Ray
with it ; and therein makes Ufe of
a different Method from Mr. Rays.
And this Sylloge being the next Thing
which Mr. Ray publifhed, he took
Occalion in the Preface to examine

' Ravinus

"The L I F E Mr. RAY. 73

Ravinus his Method, and fhewed the
Deficiencies of it. Which Rivinus
foon anfwered in November follow-
ing, in a printed Letter to Mr. Ray ;
wherein he ufeth great Complailance
and Civility to Mr. Ray in Appear-
ance, but could not forbear giving
him now and then fome angry Strokes,
and too fupercilioufly and contemp-
tuoufly runs down Mr. Ray 5^ and
endeavours to eftablifii his own Me-
thod. Which Ufage Mr. Ray fire wed
fome gentle Refentment of, in a
Reply he made to Rivinus his Letter ;
which was printed in 1696, together
with a Diflertation concerning Me-
thod, in which he examines Monfieur
‘Tournefort’ as well as Rivinus his
Method ; who, in his Elements of
Botany, took frequent Occafion to
carp at and run down Mr. Ray\
Method. But, in the Opinion of
better Judges than myfelf, Mr. Ray
8 hath

74 7^^ Life o/ Mr. RAY.

hath fufficiently anfwered all their
Obje<3:ions againfl; his Method, and
abundantly Ihewed the Imperfedlions
and Weaknefs, both of Dr. Rivinus\
Method (20), which was taken from
the Number of Petala in a Flower,
as allb of Monheur T‘ournefort\^
which was taken from the Form and
Make of the Flower.

But this contentious Way of Writ-
ing was by no means agreeable to
Mr. Ray\ fweet and peaceable Na-
ture, who, as he loved all Men, fo
dehred to be at perfect Peace and
Unity with All ; and his Unealinels
on this Account, I find in feveral
of his Letters to his Friends, wherein
he exprefles himfelf in very ftrong
Terms on this Subjedt.

(20) See the above-mentioned Philofophkal
Letters., p. 309.

Thefe

T^he\^\^%of Mr. RAY. 75

Thefe Contefts with Rvvinus and
"Tour7iefortf occaiioned Mr. Ray to
review and amend his . own Method.
And accordingly he drew it up in a
more complete Form than he had
done in his old Methodus Plantaruniy
which was publifhed in 1682, or
than he had made ufe of in his Hif-
toria Plantarum.

This new reformed Method he
finifhed in the Year 1698, notwith-
ftanding, at the fame time, he was
grievoufly vexed with a continual
Diarrhasa, and very painful Ulcers in
his Legs, which eat deep into the
Flefh, and kept him waking whole
Nights. By which means he was fo
difabled from going to London., or
any where among the Phylic-Gardens
(which was abfolutely neceflary to
the perfeding his Methodus nova ) that
Jie tel|s Dr. Tancred Robmfo?t, in a

Letter

I

76 The 'Ll vs. of Mr. RAY.

Letter of September the 30th 1698,
he could not fo much as walk into the
neighbouring Fields., &c.

This Book, although finiihed in
1698, could not be printed without
Difficulty in Four or Five Years
after. For the London Bookfellers
were unwilling to undertake it, fo
that Mr. Ray was forced to confult
his learned Friend Dr. Hotton, the
Botanic Profeflbr of Leyden, about
it; who, with all Readinefs, under-
took to have it printed in Holland',
and was fo earneft to get the Copy
over, that I find many importunate
Letters from him to Mr. Ray about
it. And at laft having received the
Copy, he got the JVaajbergs of Am-
Jlerdam to undertake it, who printed
1100 Copies Leyden (where Dr.
Hotton lived) that he might lupervile
the Prefs.

The

Life ^ Mr. RAY. 77

The Printers finifhed their Tafk
in 1703; and the W aajbergs (think-
ing it for their Intereft) had it faid in
the Title-page, that it wsis printed at
London, for Smith and Walford,
(who ufed to print Mr. Ray\ Things)
and delired Mr. Ray% Leave to lay
fo; but he refufed his Conlent, it
being a manifeft Fahhood. How-
ever, they did it without his Leave,
pleading it to be their Right, and
that it was cuftomary among the
Printers to fay what they thought
would be for their Intereft in fuch
Cafes.

This Book was much approved of
among the Foreigners, and Mr. Raf %
Method was much taught by Ibme
of the moft eminent Profeflbrs abroad,
particularly Dr. Hotton himfelf, as
he tells Mr. Ray in Ibme of his Let-
ters. As in one of July the 3d

y8 Thel^ivs. of Mr. RAY.

1703. In docendo^ tud methodo tit or ^
quod magno cedit emolmnento ret her-
barice fudiofs. And in another of
April the, i8th 1704. Magnopere
laudant methodum tuam amici., ad
quos miferam, omnes. Inter eos Se-
nator V tnetus D. Martinelli, incon-
cujfam pronunciat tuam DoEirinam..
'La Doctrine (utor ejus Verbis) du

GRAND RaIUS EST INEBRANLAELE.

Orbi dudum id perfpeEium, nihil a
te proficifci pojfe, quod non ft elabo-
ratum ' optime, omnibufque numeris
abfolutum [21).

Mr. Ray was a Man of excellent
natural Parts, and had a hngular

(21) Here the MS. of the Life of Mr. Ray
ends, but on a Sheet of Paper containing fome
farther Obfervations on the fame Subjedt, I find
alfo what follows, in Dr. Der barn’s own Hand-
writing.

Vivacity

Tlje Life ^ Mr. RAY. 79

Vivacity in his Style, whether he
wrote in EngliJIj or Latin, which
was equally ealy to him ; all which
(notwithftanding his great Age, and
the Debility and Infirmities of his
Body) he retained, even to his dying
Day ; of which he gave good Proof
in fome of his Letters, written mani-
feftly with a dying Hand (22).

In a Word, in his Dealings, no
Man more ftridly juft ; in his Con-
verfation, no Man more humble,
courteous, and affable : Towards God,
no Man more devout ; and towards
the Poor and Diftreffed, no Man
more compaflionate and charitable,
according to his Abilities.

(22) See th« aforefaid Philofophical Letters,
p. 373. Where we find the laft Letter Mr. Ray
attempted to write; but in the Pojljcript, his
Strength failing him, he was forced to break off
abruptly.

He

8o The Life ^ Mr. RAY.

He died at Blach-Notley (in aft
Houfe of his own building) January
the 1 7 th 1 704-5, and was buried (ac-
cording to his own Defire) in the
Church of that Parifh, where a fmall
Monument is eredled for him at the
Charge of fome of his F'riends, with
the following Infcription :

EruditilTimi Viri Johannis Raij, A. M.
Quicquid mortale fuit,

Hoc in angufto tumulo reconditum eft.

At Script a

Non una continet Reglo :

Et Fama undequaque celeberrima
' Vetat Mori,

Collegli S. S. Trinitatis Cantab, fuit olim Socius,

Necnon Societatis Regise apud Londinenfes Sodalis^.
Egregium utriufque Ornamentum.

In Omni Scientiarum genere
Tam Divinarum quam Humanarum
' Verfatiflimus.

Et ficut alter Solomon (cui forfan Unico Secundus)

A Cedro ad Hyflbpum,

Ab AnimaJium maximis, ad minima ufque Infe(fta^
Exquifttam na(ftus eft Notitiam.

Nec de Plantis folum,' qua patet Terras facies
Accuratiftime diftei uit ;

Sed & Jhtima ipfius vifcera fagaciftlme rimatus,

Quicquid notatu dignum in univerfa Natura
Deicripfit.

The Life Mr, RAY. Si

A pud cxteras Gentes agens,

Quse aHorum Oculos fugerent, diligenter exploravit,
Multaque fcitu digniilima primus in Lucem protulit :
Quod fupereft, e4 Morum Simplicitate praeditus,

Ut fuerit abfque Invidia Do<flus;

Sublimis Ingcnii,

Et, quod rarb accidit, demifli fimul animi & modefll 5
Non Sanguine 3c Genere infignis,

Sed quod majus
Propria Virtute lllujlris,

De Opibus TituUrque obtinendis . ’
Parum folicitUs,

Hsec potius merer! voluit quam adipifci : «

Dum fub Privato Lare, fu^ Sorte contentus
(Fortuna iautiori dignus) confenuit.

X . In Rebus aliis fibi modum facile impofuit,
lii Studiis nullum.

Quid Plura?

Hifce omnibus

Pietatem minime fucatam adjunxit,

Ecclejia Anglican^ .

(23) (Id quod fupremo haiitu confirmavit) '
Totus & ex Animo addiftus.

Sic bene latuit, bene vixit Vir beatus,

^lem Prafens Mtas eolith Pojiera mirabitur.

(23) See the Philosophical Lettert before quoted, p. 374*

G

THE

82 The Life o/' Mr. RAY.

The Editor has been pte- '
vailed upon to add to Mr,
Derhani% Life of this excellent Man
the following Prayers and Medita-
tions', exaftly copied from the -Ori-
ginals in Mr. Ray\ own Hand- Writ-
ing; the two Firft on Occafion of
the Death of particular Friends ; the
two laft may be prefumed to be the
Prayers he generally ufed Morning
and Evening.

I,

‘ A Prayer upon Occafion of Mr,
‘ F. W’r Death.

f /r\ Lord, thou haft been pleafed
• ‘ to make a, Tad Breach among
' ‘ us, to depriv^e us of our moft dear

‘ Friend

"The Life ^ Mr. RAY. 83

Friend and Relation, a Perfon that
was to fome of us as the very Light
of our Eyes, the Joy of our Hearts,
the greateft outward Comfort of
our Lives. Give us a fandified
Ule of this heavy AfHi6tion ; and
when our Hearts are moved and .
affected with a Senfe of our Lofs,
give us to conlider our Sins, and
to fpend fome Part of our Tears
in lamenting them. Give us to
conlider the Vanity and Uncertainty
of our Lives, and the Emptinels
and Infufficiency of all Things
here below, to fatisfy the vail De-
lires of our immortal Souls. Com-
fort, O Lord, and fupport the
Hearts of thy Servants, who have
the greateft Intereft in this Lolsj
and be thou pleafed alfo to counfel
and diredl them. Give us All, upon
this Occafton, to conlider our lat-
ter End, and to prepare for it ; to
G 2 ‘ wait

84 Life of Mr. RAY.

‘ wait all the Days of our appointed
‘ Time, until our Change come;
‘ to confider that we can die but
‘ once, and after Death comes Judg-
‘ ment; that upon this Moment
‘ depends Eternity; that as the Tree
‘ falls, fo it lies ; as Death leaves, fo
‘ fhall Judgment find us ; as we
‘ Ipend a few Days here, fo it will
‘ be with us for ever hereafter ; that
‘ we fhall All appear before the
‘ Judgment Seat of Chrifl;, to re-
‘ ceive, according to what we have
‘ done in the 'Body, whether it be
‘ Good, or whether it be Evil. Help
‘ us therefore to work, while we
‘ have the Light and the Day, be-
‘ caufe the Night comes, in which
‘ no Man can work ; and to pafs
‘ the Time of our dwelling and fo-
‘ journing here in thy Fear. And
‘ for thy deceafed Servant, give us
‘ to imitate his Mceknefs and Humi-

‘ litv.

Life Mr. RAY. 85

lity, his Temperance and Sobriety,
his exemplary Chaftity and Purity,
his Dutifulnefs and Obedience, his
Juftice and Righteoufhefs, his
Faithfulnefs and Conflancy, his
Patience and Submiffion to thy
Will, and all thole other eminent
Graces and Virtues, wherewith thou
wert plealed to beautify and adorn
his Soiil ; that lb we, together with
him, may, after this Life ended,
be made Partakers of thine ever-
lafting Kingdom and Glory in the
World to come.

86 The Life of Mr. RAY»

II.

1673. — ‘ About the latter End of
‘ November, we received the News.
‘ of the .Death of Sir Thomas
‘ Wendy, of Haflingfield, near
‘ Cambridge,

* blefled

‘ Lord God, upon whom we

‘ have our conftant and neceffary De-

* pendance, and to whom, therefore,
' we owe all Duty, Service, and
‘ Obedience : We blels thy holy
‘ Name for all thy Mercies hitherto
‘ continued to Us; for our Health,
^ and Peace, and Liberty; for all
‘ the necefl'ary Supports and Com-
‘ forts of this prefent Life ; but more
‘ efpecially for thy fpiritual Mercies,
‘ in Things that concern a better
^ Life \ for our Redemption, by the

‘ precious

L I F E c/* Mr. RAY. 87

precious Blood of thy Son ; for thy
Word and Ordinances, the Means
of Grace and Salvation, the Mo-
tions of thy Holy Spirit, and Affift-
ances of thy Grace ; and for thy
Patience and Long-Suffering exer-
cifed towards us. O Lord, we
confefs that we are lefs than the
lead of thy Mercies, and have
juftly deferved, by reafon of our
Sins, to have been long ago de-
prived of them all. We have vio- ’
iated and broken thy holy and
righteous Laws, omitting and neg-
lecting thofe good Duties which
thou haft commanded Us, and by
committing thofe Evils which thou
haft forbidden Us. We have lived
much under the Power and Com-
.mand of our Lufts and Paftions,
of our fenfual Appetites and In-
clinations, and have not reftfted
them, nor' ftriven againft them, as
G 4. ‘ we

88 'The Life Mr. RAY.

‘ vve ought to have done. Our Ini-
‘ quities are gone over our Heads as
‘ a Burthen too heavy for us to bear ;

‘ but there is Mercy vvdth Thee,

‘ therefore fhalt Thou be feared j and
‘ Thou art a God that heareft Prayers,

‘ therefore unto Thee fhall all Flefh
< come ; and Thou haft faid, if we
‘ confefs our Sins, Thou art faithful
‘ and juft to forgive us our Sins, and
‘ to cleanfe us from all Unrighteouf-
‘ nefs. Have Mercy upon us, O
‘ Lord, according to thy loving
‘ Kindnefs ; and after the Multitude
‘ of thy tender Mercies, blot out all
‘ our Tranfgreflions. Wafh us. from
‘ the Guilt of our Sins, in the pre-
‘ cious Blood of our Saviour Jefus
‘ Chrift, and purge us from the Stain
^ and Pollution of them, and fandlify
‘ us by the Inhabitation of thy Holy
‘ Spirit. Let thy Grace both inftrudl
‘ and enable us to deny Ungodlinefs

^ and

"The Life Mr. RAY. 89

and worldly Lufts, and to live
righteoufly, foberly, and godlily
in this prefent World. Endue us
with all the Graces of thy Holy
Spirit, a lively and operative Faith,
an awful Fear and a Reverence of
Thee, a fervent Love to Thee,
and Zeal for thy Glory, with a
firm Hope and Confidence in Thee.
Help us to live in the conftant
Pradtice and Exercife of [thofe
Chriflian Virtues] Sobriety and
Purity, Humility and Charity; of
Juftice and Meeknefs, Patience
and Contentednefs. Help us to
hate every evil Way, and to love
thy Law, and delight therein.
Give us to exercife ourfelves in all
Things, lb as to keep our Con-
fciences void of Offence, both to-
wards God and Man. Affift us
againft all Temptations, more efpe-
cially thofe to which we are moft

‘ liable

90 ‘The hiv'B. of Mr. R A Y.

liable^ [and which, heretofore, have
‘ prevailed mofl; againft us] ; com-
‘ fort us in all our Adverfities, fup-
‘ port us under all our Preffures,
‘ counfel and direct us 'in all our
‘ Doubts and Difficulties, and help
‘ us to perfevere in a Way of well-
‘ doing, to our Lives End. For
‘ which End we pray Thee fit and

* prepare us. Give us fo to live
‘ every Day, as if it were our laft,
‘ that fo we may always have our
‘ Loins girded about, and our Lamps
‘ burning ; that when we come to
‘ die, we may have nothing to do
‘ but to die, and refign up' 'our Souls
‘ into thy Hands, as into the Hands
‘ of a faithful Creator. With us be
‘ merciful to thy whole Church : Do
‘ good, O Lord, in thy good Plea-
‘ fure to Sion., build thou the Walls

of yerufalenr, pull down and de-

* flroy the Kingdom of Satan, and

‘ build

T^he Life (j/” Mr, RAY. 91,

build up and advance the King-
dom of thy Son. Be merciful to
the People of this Land, and thofe
of the neighbouring Nations. Be
gracioufly pleafed ftill to dwell
among us, and to continue Peace,
and the Gofpel of Peace to us.
More efpecially we pray for a
plentiful Bleffing upon thy Servant,
but our Sovereign. Enrich his
Royal Heart ‘with all thofe Gifts
and Graces that may fit and qualify
him for the faithful Difcharge of
his high Truft and Calling, Blefs
him in his Perfon, in his Relations,
in his Counfeilors and ' Ofiicers.
Blefs all that have any Places of
Power and Authority under him,
that they may faithfully ferve him,
and the Public, according to the
T ruft committed to them ; and that
they may employ their Power and
Authority in the Punilhment of

* evil

92 ‘The-’LiVTL of Mr. RAY.

‘ evil Doers, and in the Protedion'
‘ and Encouragement of thofe that
‘ do well. [Give us all dutiful and
‘ obedient Hearts to our Governors
‘ and Superiors.] ■ Allift and fucceed
‘ the Labours of thy faithful Mini-
‘ fters. - Let thy Urim and Thum-
‘ mim be with thy Holy Ones. Give'
‘ them to take heed, both to them-
‘ feives and to their Dodrine, that
‘ they may fave themfelves and thofe
‘ that hear them. Pity and com-
‘ miferate all thy afflided Servants,
‘ comfort all thofe that mourn in
‘ Sion., bind up the Broken-hearted,

‘ vilit the Sick, relieve the Opprelled,

‘ fupply the Wants of the Needy,

‘ comfort the Comfortlefs, be a Fa-
‘ ther to the Fatherlefs, and let not
‘ them. be afhamed who have put
‘ their Truft in Thee. Be merciful
‘ to our Friends and Relations, and
‘ fuch as are near and dear to us;

‘ blefs

7^^ Life (?/',Afr. ,R AY. 93

blefs them in' all their 'Concern-
ments and Undertakings, and with
all fpiritual- and temporal Bleflings.
[Dwell in this Family, and delight
over- us to do Good; be- Thou the
Guide of Youth, and the Staff of
the Aged ; feafon thofe that are
young and tender among us with
thy Grace, give them fuch a Por-
tion of it, as may make them re-
member Thee, their Creator, in the
Days of their Youth.] Keep us,
thy unworthy Servants, the remain-
ing Part of' this Day in thy Fear,
watch over us by thy good Provi-
dence, preferve us from all Evil,
both of Sin and Danger ; fandtify
our Thoughts and Meditations,
our Words and Speeches, and ail
our Adtions and Undertakings,
that they may be always plealing
and acceptable in thy Sight. Blefs
us in our going out and coming in,

‘ fucceed

94 Life o/* Mr, RAY*

‘ fucceed and profper us in all ouf
‘ lawful Occafiions and Employments,
‘ and whatever we put our Hand
‘ unto in thy Fear. Help us to pafs
‘ through Things temporal, that we
* finally lole not the ‘Things eternal.

III.

‘ The Morning P r a-y e r.

‘ ASSIST us, O Lord,' in all
‘ good Undertakings, in the
‘ Services we are this Day to per-
‘ form. Help us to mind and in-
‘ tend the Bufinefs we are about, to
‘ wait upon Thee without Diftrac-
‘ tion, and not to fuffer our Thoughts
‘ to wander about other Objedls,
‘ that we may not be of the Num-
‘ her of thofe that draw near to Thee
‘ with our Lips, when our Hearts
‘ are far from Thee ; but that we

‘ may

'The Life Mr. RAY. 95

‘ may ferve Thee with Purpofe of

* Heart, with Intention of Mind,
‘ and with true Zeal and Devotion,
‘ that fo we may offer up unto Thee

* fpiritual Sacrifice, pleaflng and ac-
‘ ceptable, by Jefus Chrift, our blefled
‘ Saviour and Redeemer.

IV.

‘ An Evening Prayer.

* /^LORD, our God, the Father
‘ of Mercies, and God of all
‘ Confolations, by whofe gracious
‘ Providence it is that we, thy moft
‘ unworthy Servants, have been pre-

* ferved this Day, we defire to ac-
‘ knowledge thy fatherly Goodnefs
‘ to us, and to offer up our Evening
‘ Sacrifice of Praife and Thankfgiv-

* ing, for all thy undeferved Mercies
‘ vouchfafed unto us ; and with
‘ Shame and Sorrow do acknowledge

2 ‘ and

g6 Hoe Life c/” Mr. RAY.

‘ and confefs our manifold Sins and
‘ Tranfgredions. Thou didft, at
‘ the firft, create us after thine own
‘ Image, in Knowledge, Righteouf-
‘ nefs, and true Holinefs ; but we,

‘ by our Apoftacy, have miferably
‘ defaced this thy Image, and are
‘ become naturally prone to Evil,
*• and averle from Good, and we
‘ have followed the Bent and Incli-
‘ nation of our corrupt Appetites,
‘ gratifying and complying with our
‘ fenfual and unreafonable Dehres,
‘ and giving Ear to the Temptations
‘ of Satan, and the Allurements of
‘ this prelent evil World. [We have
‘ lived in the World, in a great
‘ meafure without Thee in the W or Id . ]
‘ Great hath been the Vanity of bur
‘ Thoughts, the Vanity and Sinful-
‘ nefs of our Words, and of all our
‘ Ways. Our own Hearts and Con-
‘ fciences muft needs condemn us,

‘ when

The Life ^ Mr. RAY. 197

* when we confider our Lives paft,

* and call to Remembrance the Va-

* nities and Follies of our Youth,
‘ and the Wickednefs of our riper
‘ Years, how much more then, Thou

* that art greater than our Hearts,
‘ and knoweft all Things ! O Lord,
‘ enter not into Judgment with us,

* deal not with us after our Delerv-*
‘ ings, neither reward us ' according

* to the Evil of our Doings. Give

* us a due Senfe of our Sins paft,

‘ affeft our Hearts with godly Sorrow
‘ and Contrition for them, and then
‘ be Thou merciful to us in the free
‘ Remiflion and Forgivehefs of them.

‘ Help us for the Time to come, to
‘ walk before Thee in Newnefs and
‘ Holinefs of Life. Deliver us from
‘ the iniferable Bondage of Sin, . hito
‘ the glorious Liberty of the Chil-
‘ dren of God. Convince us of the

* Equity and Reafonablenefs of thy

H . ‘ Ways,

^8 ‘The Life Mr, RAY.

* Ways, and of the Beauty of Holi-
‘ nefs, that fo we may be in love
‘ with them ; of the Deformity and
‘ Unreafonablenefs of Sin, that fo

* we may hate and abhor it. Settle
‘ and ellablifh us in a firm Belief of
‘ every neceffary Truth ; acquaint us
f with thy Will and our Duty; and

* whatfoever we ought to do, tho’

* never fo unealy to Flefh and Blood,

* give us Grace, with all Diligence,

* to fet about the Performance of it.
‘ Help us to deny ourfelves, and
‘ to take up the Crofs and to follow

* Thee, our blefied Saviour, God
‘ manifeft in the Flefh, to deftroy
‘ the Works of the Devil. Affift
‘ us alfo, by thy Grace, luanfully
‘ to fight againft our fpiritual Ene-
‘ mies, the Devil, the World, and
‘ the corrupt Flefh we . carry about
‘ with us. The more weak we are,

‘ the more vigilant and watchful

‘ cauie

iThe of Mr. 6. Ay. 9^

caufe iis to be, and the more cate-
ful to avoid the Occafions of, and
Temptations unto, Evil. Renew
thine Image in us, arid make us
Partakers of the Divine Nature.
Make us more fpiritual, more Hea-,
venly-minded, more zealous for
thy Glory, more careful in all
things, to ferve and pleafe Thee,
and more fearful to offend Thee.
Help us to grow daily in the Know-
ledge of Jefus Chrift, that fo our
laft Days may be our beft-Days;
and when Thou fhalt call for us
out of this World, we may be
ready to leave it, and die with a
comfortable Hope and Expedation
of eternal . Life and Happinefi.
Let none of us be fo hardened,
through the deceitfulnefs of Sin,
as to put off our Repentance till
the Time of Sicknefs or old Age,
but give us Grace to feek Thee
H 2

now,

i

too 7^^ Life ^ Mr. RAY.

‘ now, while thou mayft be found,
‘ and fo call upon Thee while Thou
‘ art nigh, and- to work while we
‘ have the Light, becaufe the Night
‘ cometh in which no Man can
‘ work.”

ADVERTISEMENT.

AS, from the foregoing Life of
Mr. Ray, the Public might ex-
pedl more of his Itineraries than
what are here publifhed ; the Editor
begs leave to obferve, that thofe which
are omitted are nothing more than
fome fhort Hints by Way of Diary ;
the Author’s principal Obfervations '
being, with no fmall Difficulty,
tranfcribed from his Notes, and in-
troduced (as the Reader will find) in
the Courfe of this Work.

<ssss*s®*s«sas*«w®«6®»ass8

Mr. R A r’s

ITINERARIES.

9»SMS8»«eS»SS*9WeSSS»9SW*S»

Mr. Ray’s ('’) Itineraries.

ITINERARY I.
UGUSr the 9th 1658, I

began my Journey from
Cambridge^ and rode that
Night to Northampton^ 31 Miles.
At Higham Ferrers I took Notice of
a great antient Stone Building, which
they call the College. Northampton
is an old Town, but indifferently

(a) It is to be obferved that thtk Itineraries
begin before the Reftoration.

hand^'

u

io6 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

handfome, the Houfes all built of
Timber, hotwithftanding the Plenty
of Stone dug in that Country. It
hath at very fpacious Market-place,
an old Caftle demolifhed, and an in-
different good Wall, There, in Mr.
Brookers Garden, I faw divers phy-
fical Plants, and took efpecial Notice,
of Lupinus luteus odor at us., 'which
was very luxuriant there: The Soil
where it grew was fandy, and the
Place warm. Great Plenty of Cab-
bage, and Roots, and Onions, and
the like, are planted near this Town,

Augujl the I oth, I travelled from.
Northampton to Warwick.^ by the
Way pafling through Daventrj^ 8
Miles diftant; and in fight of Hol~
denby-Houfef which was a very ftately
Pile of Building, and a pleafant Si-
tuation ; and then by Shuckboroughy
where lives an ancient Family of that

Name,

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 107'

Name. Hereabout are found Star-
Stones, but I was not then advifed
of it, This Place may be feeii at
the lead 20 Miles (I think) every
Way; Handing on an high Hill, in
the midfl of a Level. At Warwick
I ftaid feveral Days, and lodged at
Sir Henry Newton\ at the Priory;
and in the mean time went to St.
Mary^i the principal Church, from
the Steeple whereof I had a Prolpedt
of the Town, which, fot the Big-
nefs of it, is good and neat, well:
built, and pleafantly fituate, the Body
of it in Form of a Crofs, as moft
old Towns are. In the Church is a
very handfome Choir, wherein they
receive the Communion ; a large
Chapel, in which is a goodly brals
Monument of one of the Beauchamps.,
who ferved King Henry VI. in the
French Wars; alfo the Monument
of the famous Robert Dudley, Earl

of

io8 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

of Leicejier'y and in a little round,
Place like a Chapter Houfe, a mar-
ble Monument of (b) Sir Fulke Gre-^
■vile's,., infcribed, Fulke Grevile, Ser-
vant to ^een Elizabeth, Counfellor
to King James, and Friend to Sir
Philip Sidney. I went then to fee
the Cajlle belonging to my Lord
Brooke, who then lived in it, and
was in a Confumption, and is fence
dead. There are two noted Towers,
one called Julius Ccefars, Fower, and
another which Hands higher, called
Guy s. Tower, which we afeended,
and from thence had a Profpedl of
the Country round about, where we
noted Kineton and Killingworth Cafe

(h) Sir Fulke Grevile^ .Lord Brooke. Mr.
Walpole in his ingenious Account of the Royal
and Noble Authors of England^ and their Works,
has given a Character of this noble Peer, and
has made good Ufe of the Particularity in his
Epitaph*

tie,

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 109

tie, now almoft quite demolifhed.
I neglected to fee the Rib of the
Dun Ci/Wy and Guy\ Sword. I rode
out a Mile or more from the Town,
to fee Guy% Cliffy an Houfe fo called,
on the Bank of the River Avon^
where then my Lord Baltinglafs did
live. There I faw a little Chapel or
Chauntry, wherein was Guy s Statue,
in the juft Dimenfton, and a fmall
Grot in the Rock, which they call
Guy\ Cavcy in which he is reported
to have ftmt himfelf up, and done
Penance. Here are Butteries and
Cellars cut out of the living Rock.
During my Abode at the Priory, I
viftted Sir Simon Archer y who lived
then in Warwick ; at whofe Houfe I
faw many Rarities, efpecially many
Pieces of turned Work in Ivory, in-
credibly fmall and curious ; alfo a
Letter Patent of King William I. a
Letter of the Pope, with a leaden
2 Seal,

iio Mr. RAY’j Itineraries;

Sealj to grant Liberty to one Archer
to build a Chapel; a plenary In-
dulgence to another of that Narhe
by Pope Boniface IX; On one Side
of the Seal, written in Capital Let-
ters, Bonifacius VIIII. on the
other Side were two Faces looking
one towards another, and above thefe
Letters S. P. A. S. P. E. i. e. St^
Paulusy St. Petrus. The like Seal
and Infcription on the fore-mentioned
Grant. Alfo a Patent of Edward
III. for free TV arren to another of
the Name of Archer^ with a Seal;
on the one Side of which w’as the
Figure of the King on Florfe-back,
on the other he was reprelented fit-
ting on his Throne.

Augufl the 1 8th, I departed froiri
the Priory.^ and rode through Coven-
try to Apoby-de-la-Zouch. Coven-
try is a well built City, and ha^ a.

very

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries'.- hi

very beautiful Market-Crofs, and one
large Church. The Story of the
Lady Godeva^ who rode naked thro’
this Town, may be had at large in
Dugdales Defcription of Warwick-
JldrCy and indeed whatever is remark-^
able, or worth noting in the whole
County. At Ap:)by I law the Earl
of Huntingdon^ Houfe, now ajmoft
quite ruined j this was the principal
Strength of the Garrifon at AJJoby.
Thence, the. next Day, I palTed on
through Derby to AJhburn in the
Peak. Derby is a large Town, but
meanly built; there have been in it
five Churches, but fome of them are
decayed, and ready to drop down.
Here I was told, by a Countryman,
that there is a Pool on the Top of a
Mountain, reported bottomlefs, near
Leeky named Blackmeer. In. my
Journey this Day, I faw fome Coal-
Pits about two Miles from Afobyj

and

it 2 Mr. RAT sir INERARIESj .

and pafled the River Trent at Swar~
fan Bridge, where is a Cauffey crofs
the Meadows about Half a Mile long,
that deferves to be remembred, cafl
up with abundance of Pains and
Coft at the firft.

Augujl the 19th, I got to AJ}3~
hurn.y where is a very fair Church,
built Cathedral-wife*

Augujl the 20th, I lodged at
Buxton or Buckjlone., and that Night
entered Pool\ Hole., which is about
Half a Mile diftant from thence. T he
Bottom of this Hole is all very un-
even and flippery, and fomewhat
dangerous to walk in. The Water
therein dropping from the Top, pe-
trifies into a White crumbling Stone,
fomewhat like Alabajler., and where-
ever there is a Drop of Water dif-
tilling conftantly from the Top, there

is

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 113

is under it a Pillar of Stone, which by
Degrees rifes higher and higher, and
will at laft, doubtlels, come to touch
the very Top. One of thefe Pillars,
more large and remarkable than the
reft, they call the Far/, for its Like-
nefs ; for they have all - of them a
Cavity in the Head, containing ' a
good Quantity ol Water, into which
the Drops fall. The Water entire
petrifies not, but there be in it Atoms,
of Stone diftblved and fwimming, as
do the Parts of a Metal dilTolved in
a convenient Menftruum ; with thele,
whether the Water being over-
charged, doth precipitate or let go
fome, or v/hether by Adhefion or,
fimilary Attradlion, fome of them
leave the' Water, and ftick to others
till at laft they compound a great
Mafs? For as common or Rain Wa-
ter, falling upon a Stone, doth con-
tinually carry away fome infenfible
I Ramenta

114 Mr. RAY V Itineraries'.

Ramenta or Atom's of. it, which' pro-
bably are fuftained by the Water as-
hy'a convenient Menftruum, fo here
the Water, being more than fated or
impregnated with lapideous Atoms,,
falling upon a Stone, doth continually
let feme go, which, being of the
fame Nature, adhere to the Stone,
and augment its Bulk. In the rude
Rock, there be fome Stones which
imitate a Bacon-Flitch, fome a Lion,
^c. which they call by thofe Names.
There is in it a Place which they call
the Queens Pillar,, becaufe Mary
^ueen of Scots went in. fo farj be-
yond’which it is not eafy to go with-
out climbing on your Hands and'
Knees. Sometimes, in a rainy Win-
ter, this Cave at the Bottom is full
of Water, which gufheth out in.
great Plenty at the Mouth of it. At.
Buxton I faw and felt the Water in
the Hot-Well, which is nothing near .

fo

Mr. RAY’j' Itineraries. 115

fo hot as the Waters at Bath. Here-
about are very many hot Springs, and
Ibme cold ones near them, but not
any that I could find fo near as is
reported, viz. that you might put
your Thumb into one, and your
Finger into another. I think there-
'about be as many, and poflibly fome
as hot Springs as any at the Bath.
Underneath the Earth is nothing but
Limeftone. Here is a Well called
St. Anni% of Buckftone, a warm
Spring, which they drink, and fancy
that it cures all Difeafes. On the •
moorifh Hills, and in the Paftures
hereabout, I firft obferved Alchimilla.^
Mufcus clavatus^ five Lycopodium
Erica baccifera fruEiu nigro., Vied-
nia rubra.) Vitis I dee a thy mi foliisy
Mufcus ereEius ahietiformis. Out of
aA Hill near Buxtoriy called Axe-
EdgCy fpring Four Rivers, 'which
run Four contrary Ways, viz. Dove
I 2 South,

Ii6 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

South, Dane Weft, Gwayt North,
and Wye Eaft.

Auguft the 2 2d,' I rode to' a
Place called Weeding Well.^ where
there is fhewn a little Well, which,
they will tell you, fometimes ebbs
and flows three times in an Hour,
but in thefe dry Summers hath quite
ceafed. Thence I went to Elden-
Hole, which may be, for aught I
know, for Depth, fuch as is reported :
If you caft a Stone into it, after a
while you fhall hear the Noife of it
ftriking againft the Sides to and again.
They tell a Story of Sir Tdhomas Ca-
vendiJJj endeavouring to fathom it,
and of a Stone that flicks out in it
on one Side about Fourfcore Fathoms
down ; it lies open without any Fence
or Rail, fo that it is eafy for Cattle
to fall into it. Hence I went to
Mamtm Eorr^ which is an high Moun-
tain

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 117

tain broken on one Side, of which
the Tradition is, that the Earth con-
tinually falls down, yet is not the
Hill any thing diminifhed, nor the
Heaps of Earth below at all en-
creafed. I got as near as I could to
the broken Side, but could not hear
or fee any fuch running down of the
Earth ; when there is Rain, the Wa-
ter running down waflieth away with
it much of the Hill. I was 'inform-
ed, that on the Top of this Moun-
tain is an antient Roman Camp, en-
compafled with a double Trench,
whereabouts are fometimes found
Store of antient Roman Medals.
Hence I went the lame Day to Caf-
tletony when I entered that great and
famous Specus or Cave., called the
Devil's A ; which is of a marvel-

ous Breadth at the Mouth, and wider
{they fay) than any artificial Arch
now to be feen : Within the Entrance

I 3

are

ii8 Mr. RAY’f Itineraries.

are two or three Cottages where poor
People live. J went in as far as the
firft Water, which is not far, which,
if you pafs, they fay you meet with
a Second, which likewife may be
pafled, and then you come to a
Third, where the Water and the Top
meet. Upon the Mountain, juft
above this Hole, ftands an old Caf-
tle, from whence the adjoining Town
took its Name. Hereabout grows
Plenty of Cochlearia rotundi
as I was informed by feveral People
living here; of which I doubt not,
becaufe I have found it in the little
Rills defcending from many high
Hills, as Penigent and (c) Inglebo-
rough. Hence, climbing many ftony

Hills,

(c) On this Hill, fays Mr. Ray^ grows the
following Plants*, to \V\x..,Polygonatum latifolium^
Sedum Ericre '(about the Beacon plenti-

fully,) Ehalidirum minus ^ Lilium conv allium.,

Allium

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 119

Hills, and palling many Unevennef-
fes, I proceeded as far as Dkkly^ in
the Way to Manchejler, which is a
large and a very neat Town. Here
I took Notice of the College, and
the new Library, which they had
furniflied with ufeful and choice.
Books. I faw the Free-School and
the Church, from the Steeple of
which I had a Profped: of the Town.
Accorhpanied with Mr. Birch^ the
School-Mafter, I. went to fee the
Place, where oi old had been ' (I
think) a Roman Fortification, which
they there call the Caftle ; it is a -
Mile or more from the Town : The
Area thereof is large. Near .this
Spot I faw a little Houfe cut out of

Allium urfimmy alfo a fmall Yellow Mountain
Sedum^ and a Sort of Myagrum^ Rhodia radix ^ Se- .
diim ericoides^ and Sedum Alpinum luteum minus'^
all three abundantly ; alfo Salix pumila folio ro-
tundo Alpina, but in no great Plenty.

I 4

■ the

120 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

the Rock, the like whereto 1 had
before feen at Guy\ Cliff., and lince
at Bridgenorth, Nottingham, and
other Places,

Augiijl the 24th, I directed my
Courfe towards North Wales, and
that Night lay 2L\. WeJl Chejler. I
palled through Northwych, where I
Jaw the Manner of making Salt.
The Brine Pit, or Salt Spring, is,
near to the Bank of the River, thence
they pump up the Water, which is
by Troughs conveyed into the Pans,
where it is evaporated by boiling.
The Salt, after its cryftallizing, falls
down to the, Bottom, and they take
it out by wooden Scummers, and
put it in Frails, and fet it in a warm
Room behind the Furnace, to drain
and dry. The Salt is very white; I
did not enquire whether they made
ufe of Ox’s Blood, as they do who
. . ' make

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 121

make Salt of Sea Water. The City
of Chejler is large and indifferently
fair. It hath one Peculiarity which
no other Town hath, that I have
leen in England : That is the Rows
(as they call them) or Cloifters on
each Side of all the conhderable
Streets -in the Town, in which one
may walk the Streets under Cover in
the dry, in the moft rainy and wet
Weather. The Town is well walled
about i the Cathedral built of a red
fandy Stone, which fuffers much by
the Weather. It hath little Beauty
within or without. There is like-
wife a Cajlle held by a fmall Garri-
fon, wherein the Affizes are kept.

Augujl the 25th; From Chejler
I rode over the Sands as far as Flint
Cajile.y which flands upon the Sea,
but is now almoft quite fallen down ;
jthence to' Haliwelly where I law and

drank

122 Afr. RAW Itineraries.

drank of the fo much famed Water
of St. Winifred\ Well^ which I
knew not how to diftinguifh from
comrnon Water. It is a mofl; copi-
ous Spring; I have not any where
leen fo much Water rife out of the
Earth in fo fmall a Compafs ; over it
is an handfome Stone Building, and
by it a Chapel, where lie continually
a great Number of poor, lame, im-
potent People, more I believe to beg
and receive the Alms of Strangers,
that either out of Curiohty or Devo-
tion come to viht and fee the Well,
than out of Hope to receive much
Benefit by the Ufe of this Water,-
though the Inhabitants of this Place
will tell you Stories enough, very
confidently and circumftantially, of
lately done miraculous Cures by the
Ufe thereof : But I have learned that
to diftrufi: is Nervus Sapkntice, Leav-
ing Halmell that Night, I reached
2 St,

Mr. RAY’j It.inera'ries'. 123

St, Afaphy a Bifliop’s See, where
there is a very poor Cathedral Church,
covered with Shingles or Tiles, ex-
cepting one of the Illes, where allb
the Lead is fallen olF, which yet is
efteemed here a ftately Fabrick,

Augujl the 2 6th, I went to Aher~
conwey, a pretty little Town in Car-
narvonjhirey ‘ inclofed with an high
and flrong Wall. Here is a Cajih
ftanding on a Rock, within the Wa-
ter, of great Strength, and which
(as they told me) held out the laft for
the King. Here the Affizes were
now holden. The Place is but poor,
as is generally all the Country ; tho’
about St. Afaph there is a very plea-
lant, and (I believe) fruitful Vale.

Auguji the 27 th, I made for the
. Hie of Ajtglefey ; and riding over the
Sands, under an high Rock, called

Penman

124 RAW Itineraries.

Penman Daughan^ and over another
called Penman mawr^ in a narrow,
and fomewhat dangerous Way, there
being a very fteep Precipice into the
Sea on one Hand ; I yet miffed the
Opportunity of the Sands, to go
over to Beaumaris^ and was forced
to go round by Bangor., another
Epifcopal See, but a fmall Village,
and the Cathedral a mean one. I
palled the Ferry at Porthaithwyth in-
to the file of Anglefey, and lodged
at Beaumaris, a pretty little Town,
having an handfome ftrong Caftle.
The Welch people generally are ex-
tremely civil and well bred, very
honeft and courteous to Strangers.

Augujl the 31ft, I removed to
Carnarvon, paffing over the Ferry
juft named. Carnarvon is a fmall
Town, walled about with a tall hut
flight Wall. The Cajlle is large,

hath

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 125

hath formerly been conhderable for
its Strength and Beauty, but now is
quite gone to Decay : Edward W. was
born in it.

September the ift, I left Carnar-
von^ intending for Snowden^ having,
for that Purpofe, hired a Guide to
condudt me to the Top of the Hill.
But it rained lb hard, and the Wea-
ther proved fo bad, that I was forced,
within a Mile of the Town, to take
Shelter in a fmall Cottage. After
that I proceeded to the Foot of the
Hill, where my Guide defponding,
and being fomewhat late, I was
forced to difmifs him. This Night I
lodged at Bethkellert,

Septetnber the 2d. At Bethkellert
I hired another Guide to the Top of
Snowden'^ we marched up on Foot
about Four Miles. The Top of the

Mountain

i26 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

Mountain was covered with Clouds^
fo that I loft the Profped ufually
taken from thence of the adjacent
Country. Divers rare Plants I found
on the Top and Sides of the Hill,
which were then Strangers to me, de
quibus .confute Cataloguni).

September the 3d, I rode from
Bethkellert to Bala., in Merionethfoire,
a long and bad Way, tho’ accounted
but 20 Miles. The Aftizes were
then held there.

> September the 5 th, I rode to
Dolgehle, a- fmall Town, where I
firft heard of the Obfervations of an
Oxford Scholar concerning that T own,
lince printed in Fuller^ Worthies. It
ftands under an Hill called Caderi-
dris, faid to be three Miles high,
which I afcended, from whence I
had a fair Profpeift of the Country

round

Mr. RAW It INERARIES. 12^

round about. I found no new
Plants, fave the Globe Flower, Cyprefs
Mofs, and another fmall Club Mofs
with White Seeds.

September the 6 th, I travelled to
Mahentler, and thence to the Silver
Mills, where I faw and learned the
whole Procefs of the Work of melt-^
ing and refining of Silver. They
have two Sorts of Ore, the one rich
of Dorrens and Comfomlogh, the other
poorer of Talabont. They mix thefe,
Six Parts of Dorrens Ore with Four
of Falabont, htcdiuk. . Dorrens being
rich, will not melt off the Hearth
without fiach a Quantity of the Fa~
labont. Then they carry it in a Bar-
row from the Storehoufe, to each
Smelter’s feveral Bing, where it is
melted with Black and White Coal
(that is. Sticks cut into fmall Pieces,
then flit and dried) ; but the whole of

this.

128 Mr. RAYV Itineraries*

this I had afterwards more exactly in
my Fourth Voyage.

September the yth, I direded my
iCourfe to Shrewjbury., and lodged at
Llanver.^ fhortof Welch-Pool\ where
I firft heard of the Death of Oliver
L. Protestor.

September the 8th, I rode through
Welch Pool to Shrewjbury. This
Town is as large as Cambridge., fair,
well-built, compad, walled almoft
round with a thick and ftrong Wall
(as Walls go in England), yet but
low. It hath a Cajlle, fix Churches,
a great Free-School, having four
Mafters; and a Brewhoufe noted for
its Bignefs. Shrewjbury Cakes are
much efteemed.

September the 12 th, I travelled
to Kederminjler \ and from thence-

proceeded

A/r. RAYV Itineraries. 129

proceeded on to Worcejler. This
Town is large, hath a fair Cathedral,
within hde very handfome, but de-
caying apace. There are in it three
or four good Streets, but no very
good Market-place. It is in Strength
inferior to Shrewjbury ; for Greatnefs
and Beauty equal. By the Way, as
I came hither, I palled Bridgenorthy
where I faw a fair Street of new-
built Houfes, and divers little Houles
cut out of the Rock, particularly a
great Wine Cellar, which defer ves to
be feen. I had a Profpedl of IVor-
cejler from the Steeple of the Cathe-
dral. In the Choir is a Monument
of King yohn, with a Crown on his
Head, lying between two Bifhops.
No Infcription, but only on the Top
of his Head, within the Crown,
yohannes Rex A?igJiey which I lu-
fped: to be of a later Date. Here is
alfo a Monument for Prince Arthur.,
K iufcribed

130 Mr. R AY’j-ltiNERARiEs.

infcribed, Here lieth' Prince Arthur,
the Firjl-begbtten of Henry the 'jth.^
&c. who died in the i ‘'jth Year of his
Age, and in the Tear of our Lord
1502.

September the 13 th, I rode to
Gloucefer, where I law the great
Church, and therein the Monument
of Robert de Courtois, his Effigies
in Wood lies crofs-legged ; alfo the
Monument of one John Jones, who
had been thrice Mayor, and Secretary
to Six Bifjops, who died the Morrow
Night after that his Monument was
finiffied ; another of Edward II. but
a poor one for a King. I faw alfo
the Whifpering-place, and the new
Library. There is the faireft and
largeft Cloifter that I had any where
obferved. The Town conlifts prin-
cipally .of two Streets croffing one
another.

September

Mr., RAY’j Itineraries. 131

September the 14th. From Glou-
ceJieVy I fet forward for Cambridge,
lodging the Firft Night at Stow in
the Wold. The next Day palling
through Banbury, I reached FoJier\-
Booth -that Night. I had Thoughts
of, getting to Cambridge the next
Day ; but through Defedt of my
Horfe I fell fhort, and was forced to
take up at St. Neots, where I refted
Sunday, and on Monday finilhed my
Voyage, arriving at Cambridge- the
1 8th about Noon.

i ^2 A/r. RAY’j Itineraries.

I T I N ERAR Y II

7U LY the 26th, 1661, We (a)
began our Journey northwards
from Cambridge-, and that Day, paf-
fing thro’ Huntingdon and Stilton, we
rode as' far as Peterborough, 25 Miles.
There I firft heard the Cathedral-
Service : the Chorifters made iis pay
Money for coming into the Choir
with our Spurs on.

'July the 27 th, We rode on to
Crowland, 6 Miles ; there we viewed
the famous Abbey-Church, fo much
ol it as is yet ftanding. The Roof
within, covered with Wood, hath been
curioufly gilded ; and round- - about
on the Sides, underneath the Roof,
are artificially carved many Species of

(a) Mr. Willughhy was one of the Company.

Animals,

Mr. RAY’x Itineraries. 133

' Animals, both Beafts and Birds. In
the Time of the late Wars this
Church was made a Garrifon, and
held for the King : When it was
taken by the Parliament, one of the
Town Soldiers, affrighted, got up to
the Top of the Church above the
Wood-work wherewith it is covered,
and walked along, till he came to a
Place where wanted a Board, there,
whether cafually flipping down, or
voluntarily (or being aftonied by
the Soldiers calling upon him to
come down) hung a long time by
the Arms into the Church, which
is of a great Height ; till at laft, be-
ing weary, he fell into the Churcli,
but yet was not fo dalhed to Pieces
with the Fall, but that he lived a
Day or two. This Church feemeth
to have - been built Cathedral-wife,
but now there remains only Part of
the Body of the Church, the Choir
K 3 and

i3'4 RAYV Itineraries.

and crofs Building being all fallen
down. Crowland is noted for a
(b) Bridge, ftanding on the Con-=
fluence of two Waters upon three
Feet, without any Pillar in the Mid-,
die to lupport it. From Cropland
to Spalding we rode upon a very
firm Bank, for the Space of 8 Miles,
lately thrown up by Colonel Walton,
We obferved at Spalding, Sir An-
thony Oldfield' ^ Houfe. The Town
is well built and handfome, fuch as
no Man would hope to find in fiich
Fens and Plafhes as environ it on all
Sides, elpecially not having the Be-
nefit of the Sea. From Spalding to
Bofion, 1 2 Miles, very good Way
in the Summer, and exadly level,
without the leaf! Hill or Rifing.

(b) The Form of this may be feen

among Meffieurs Bucks Views of Caftles,
in England,

By

M)\ RAY’j Itineraries. 135

By the Way we obferved, that gene-
rally all along the Ridges of their
Houfes and the Corners (which Houfes
are covered with Thatch of Straw or
Reed, and the Ridges and Corners
made up with Clay) they plant Houfe-
leek in great Plenty, whether for
Ornament or Ule we did not enquire.
At Kirktofiy a Village near Bojion^
there is (which Cafnden alfo taketh
Notice of) a very fair Church, built
Cathedral- wife. This Town gives
Original and Name to that Sort of
Apples which are called at Cambridge ,
corruptly Girton Pippins^ of a very
pleafant Tafte. It’s .truly obferved
by Camden.^ that in Holland in Lin-
colnjhiret and generally in all the
Fen' Countries, the Churches are
very fair, and built of Stone, though
the Country thereabouts, for many.
Miles, fcarce affords a Pebble.

’ K4

July

136 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

yulj the 27 th, and the 28 th be-
ing Sunday., we lodged at Bojlon.
The Town for that Country is large,
populous, and hath a good Trade.
The Church is fair and great. The
Steeple, for a Tower, the talleft that
ever I faw ; ftanding in a level
Country, it may be feen for many
Miles, and is alfo a Sea-Mark. From
the Ground to the higheft Top, the
Afcent is of 364 Steps. The Lead
Lanthorn (as they call it) is uncovered,
and raifed above the Leads to a very
conliderable Height, viz. 79 Steps.
There is a kind of Exchange which
they call the Mart-yard (by Camden
called the Gild) and a Free-School,
and fome other Buildings which we
took Notice of. The Town is go-
verned by a Mayor, 1-2 Alderrnen,

• Mr. RAY’5 Itineraries. 137

July the 29th, We rode from
Bojlon through Lincoln.^ to a Place
, called the Spittle^ 34 Miles. By the
Way we pafled "Taterpall^ where
there is a Caftle belonging to the
Earl of Lincoln. This, of a Market-
Town, is the meaneft that I have
feen in the South of England. In
Taterpall Park we firft difcovered
Pneumonanthcy which afterwards, on
many heathy Grounds, we found
both in Lincolnpoire and Yorljhire.
We pafled very bad Ways, and had
like to have been laid fall in a Place,
called my Lady s Hole^ in a rotten
marfhy Ground near Tupham- Abbey.
;:As we proceeded towards Lincohy
we faw, on the left Hand, the Ruins
of Bardmy-Abbey j and on the Right
of Berlins we pafled over a great
Water, at a Place called the fliort
Ferry. At Lincoln we viewed the
Gathedral, which is, indeed, a very

beau-

1^8 Mr. RAY V It INERARIES.

beautiful Building,, with a double
Crofs. We afcended one of the
Steeples, of which the Church hath
Three ; one whereof hath in it five
Bells,, the Second fix, the Third only
Xom. The Chorifters in this Church
had no Surplices, but only Gowns
with Capes faced with Lamb-lkin.
We faw the great Bell juft mentioned,
called great Xom of Lincoln^ caft in
the Year 1610. Here we found it
true, jninuunt prcefetztia faniam.
From this Steeple we had a Profpe<ft
of the City, which now conlifts only
of one long Street. It is a mean
and. poor Place ; not well built ; of
little Trade; many of the Churches
fallen down; of no Strength. In
this City we faw a Bowling-Green,
in the Bottom of a Pit or Pond,
which one would fufpetft fhould, in
the Winter-time, be filled with Rain,
and turned into a ftanding Pool of

Water.

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 139

Water. The Town being full of
Tumult, by reafon that the Affizes
were there that Day, we ftaid not all
Night, but rode on i o Miles further
to the Spittle ; where we found but
bad Accommodations, becaufe the
Inn there had a little before been
accidentally burnt down.

"July the 30th, We went on from
the S_pittle to Glandford-Bridge^ 10
Miles, and thence to Barto7^ upon
Humber^ 8 Miles, from whence we
ferried over ourfelves and our Horfes
to Kingjion upQn Hull^ 5 Miles. At
HuU-'wq: were received by Soldiers,
conducted to the Main-Guard, and
examined by one Captain Widdring-
ton.^ who was then upon Guard j
who afterwards came to pur Inn tQ
vilit us. In the Morning we went
tp fee the great Church (which the

Clerk

140 Mr. RAY' 's Itineraries.

Clerk told us was called St. Trinity i].
The Choir is very fair and large, but
built of Brick. The Pillars in the
Church and Choir very {lender, fo
that the whole is lightfome. It is
built in Form of a Cathedral, and
hath, according to the Statute, a Suf-
fragan Bifhop. Every one that is
buried here, gives Five Shillings and
Six-pence towards the Repair of the
Church. From the Steeple we had
a Profpedl of the Town, which is
fair and well-built, every Street paved
handfomely. It is fenced with a
llrong Brick- Wall, and a double
Ditch, with an high Earth- Work
between them. The Country round
about is an exad: Level, for 5 Miles
from the Town every Way, and they
fay may be over-flowed, by cutting
the Banks at full Sea, and letting in
the Water, lb that the Town is very

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 141

ftrongly fituate and fortified, Na-
ture and Art confpiring to make it
impregnable. We obferved, in a
Clofe near the Town called Grans-
wick, great Store of Carum ; it grows
in many Places about this Town,
and in fome Places of the Fens in
Lincolnp^ire. In this Town there is
a Foundation called Trinity- Houfe^
which is a Society of Merchants, and
to it belong good Revenues. There
• are maintained thirty poor Women,
called Sifters, every one of vvhom
hath a little Chamber or Cell to live
in. This Building confifts of a
. Chapel, two Rows of Chambers be-
low Stairs for the Sifters, . and two
Rooms above Stairs, one very fair,
where the Brethren of the Society
meet, in which hang mahy' Tables
of Orders for the Society’s ' Govern-
ment ; another large Chamber where
they make Sails: In the middle

whereof

142 Mr. R'AY’j Itineraries,

whereof (c) hangeth the Effigies of
a Nathe of Groehland, with a Coat
of Skins upon him, fitting in a very
fmall Boat or Canoe, covered with
Skins : He hath, in his right Hand,
a Pair of wooden Oars, wherewith
he rows his Boat ; in his left a Dart,
with which he ftrikes Fifh : On his
Forehead a Thing like a Trencher,
which ferves as a Bonne-grace, to
fence his Eyes from the Sun, and it
may be too, from the dafhing of
the Water. Behind him lies a Blad- '
der or Skin-Bag, in which we fup-
pofe he bellowed the Fifh he caught.
(Some told us it was a Bladder full
of Oil, with which he ufed to allure

(c) Mr. Ray^ in p. 25. of his foreign Tra-
vels, takes Notice of feeing a Groenlmd Man in
his Boat, hanging in the Entry of the Chirur-
gical and Anatomical Theatre in Delft ; and
there mention's feeing the fame in xh^'Trinity-
Houfe in HulL ,

the

Mr". RAY’f IxiNERARIESi 143

the Fifh to him). The Boat is covered
over with the fame it is made of,
excepting one Hole wherein he fits,
juft fitted to his Body ; fo that when
lie fits in it, his Legs, and - tower
Part, are under Cover or Deck j the
Boat is thus contrivedj that when it
fhall be plunged by a Wave, it may
rife again, no Water getting into it.
This was the fame individual Canoe -
that Was taken, with all its Fiitniture
Or Remex^ •l6i3, Tft the Sea,

by Andrew Barker of Hull. The
Greenlander takeh, refufed to eat,
and died with Hunger and Sullen-^
nefs, in the Space of three Days. A
great Whale-bone lies at the Door
the 'Trinity- Houfe. We faW the

Water-houfe, which -furnifheth . the
whole Town with frefli Water’. The
Water is drawn up by Horfes -into
two Cifterns,^ by a Detdce Vvhich -I
had not before' obfe'rved. We "viewed
8 alfo

144 RAW Itineraries.

alfo the Free-School, over which are
two Rooms j one, in which the
Merchants have their Feafts, another
with Seats, wherein they meet to
confer. The Town is governed by
a Mayor and 12 Aldermen. The
Mayor hath a large Mace borne be-
fore him on Feftival Days, and a Cap
of Maintenance, and a fmall Mace
for ordinary Days; alfo two Swords,^
the lefier given by King Richard II.
the larger - by Henry VIII. but on«,
borne at a Time. There is alfo a
finall Mace for the Water-BaililF ; alfo
another little one called the Blood-
wipe^ which they ufe in parting of
Frays, and he that draws Blood of
another forfeits a Noble to the
Mayorefs. Behdes thefe, is a wooden
Enfign like a Knife, called the Ad-
miralty Macey with which the Water-
Serjeant arrefteth Ships. At the
Mayor’s Houfe is kept a fair Cup-
board

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. . 145

board of public Plate belonging to
the Town. The principal Com-;
niodities (exported at leaft) wherein
the Town’s Trade conlifts, are Lead,
brought hither out of Derbyjhirey
and Cloth for Sails. This Town
turnilheth the greateft Part of York-
Jhire, and the adjoining Countries
with Wines. We faw a public Build-
ing near the River Hull^ which they
call the Exchange. On the further
Side of the River Hull ftand three
Forts; one called the North-Block-
houfe., the rniddle-mofl; the CaJUe^
and the third the South-Blockhoufe^
all three garrifoned with Soldiers,
and built of Brick. The South-
Blockhoufey , which commands the
Humber^ is in good Repair, the
other two fomewhat decayed. On
the Tops of the Walls of this laflr,
we obferved the common Pink grow-
ing in great Plenty. King Henry
L VIII.

146 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

VIII. his Houfe, called the Manor,
is now the Magazine. Hull is noted
for good Ale. The Town of Hull
was (they fay) of old Time, a fmall
Village called Wike^ till the Mer-
chants, leaving the Spume or Sprun^
which is the utmoft Point of Holder-
nefs^ upon the Sea, becaufe the Sea
daily encroached upon their Town
there, came and featedthemfelveshere,
twenty Miles higher up the Humber :
Thence came Hull to its Growth and
Riches. The Governor of the Town,
at our being there, was the Lord
^ellajis. There is an old Saying,

, When Dighton is pull'd down,

Hull Jhall become a great Town.

This Dighton was a Village clofe by
the Towm, pulled down in the Time
of the late Wars.

Augujl the I ft. We proceeded
on our Journey from Hull., through

Beverle\\

Mr. RAY’f Itineraries, 147

Beverley y to Selby ^ 2 7 Miles. At Be-'
verley we ftaid to fee the Minjier, a
very fair Building ; the Roof an Arch
of Stone. It hath a double Crofe
Building, one in the Choir. The
Seats in the Choir were canopied over
with very good carved Wood- Work
with little Statues, which are now
taken away. In the Church are feve-
ral Monuments of the Piercies of
Northumberland, the Earls whereof
have added a little Chapel to the
Choir, in the Window whereof are
the Pidures of divers of that Family,
curioully painted in the Glafs. At
the upper End of the Choir, on the
Right Side of the Altar, ftands the
Freed-Stooly of one entire Stone (which
was formerly a Sandluary) faid to have
been brought from Dunbar in Scot-
land y and behind it, in the Wall, a
Well of Water. At the upper End
of the Body of the Church, next
L 3 the

r

148 Mr'. RAY’^ Itineraries.

the Choir, hangs an antient Tabic,
in which are the Pidtures of St. John
(from whom this Church is named)
and King Rtheljlan the Founder
thereof. Between them this Diftieh,

Ah free make I thee.

As Heart may think or Egh may fee.

King Charles I. -coming into the
Church, and reading thofe Verfes, is
reported to have added.

Even fo free be.

Hence of old the Inhabitants of Bev'er-~
ley pay no Toll or Cuftom in any City,
Town, or Port in England. In the
Body of the Church we oblerved an
antient Monument called Ehe Virgins
’Tomby becaufe two Virgins, Sifters
(whofe Names they could not tell
us), were buried there. Thefe Vir-
gins gave to the Town of Beverley
a Piece of Land, into which any
Freeman of the Town may put three

Milch

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 149'

Milch Kine from Lady-Day to
Michaelmas. ■ At the lower End of
the Body of the Church ftands a very-
large and fair Font of Agate Stone.
This Town is large and long; hath
a lpg,cious and handfome Market-
place: There have been antiently in
it four Churches, Ibme of them now
fallen into Decay. It is governed by
a Mayor and 1 2 Aldermen; Here is
the Seat of the Family of the Gees.^
whofe Monuments we faw in the
Church. The principal Church of
the Town is St. Mary built Cathe-
dral-wife. In the Year 1528, the
Steeple fell down, in the Time -of
Divine Service, and beat down’ Part
of the Church, and llew and wounded
divers Men, Women, and Children.
This we faw cut in Wood, about
one of the uppermoft Seats in the
Church ; Prey ye for the Soules of
-'the MeUt JV vnen^ and Childretiy

L 2 *

150 Mr. RAY’i Itineraries.

&c. When this Church was re-
edified, one Crojland^ who hath a
Monument there, built two Pillars
and an Half, upon which there is
this Infcription, (which, for Mr. Crof-
land\ Sake I copied out) XL AND
AND HIS WIFF MADE THESS
TO PILLORS AND AN HALFE.
Here are divers Stories reprefented in
Pidlure on the Roof, as particularly
the Legend of St. Catharine. There
is an old Infcription on the Roof of
the North Ifie;

Mayn in thy Lyffing lowfe God abown all
Tbyngi

And ever'thynk of the Begynning what Jhall
cowme of the Ending.

From Selhy we rode to Wifiowy and
from thence, the fame Night, we went
onward to PonteJraSi. By the Way
we pafled through Hambleton') a
fmall Village, and had a View of
Brayton Bargh (which' is a Hillock

covered

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 151

covered with Wood) upon Occafion
whereof we were told a proverbial
Saying or Rhyme ;

If Bvz.ytox\ Bargh, and Hambleton
and Burton Bredme,

Were all in thy Belly., it 'would never be
teame.

At PontefraSi, a large Town, we
faw the Ruins of that noted Caf-
tle (d) there, which, though 'built
upon a firm Rock, is lb utterly
demolHhed from the Foundation,
that there is little or nothing
of the Walls remaining. We faw
the Free-School, but a mean Build-
ing. In Dr. yohtifott’s Garden we
found divers Plants which were new
to us, viz. SoUdago Saracenica, a
kind of Melilot-trefoil) a Plant like

(d) Meflleurs Bucks have publifhed a Print
of this famous Caftie, from a Drawing talten
during the Siege.

L 4 Muf-

152 Mr. RAW Itineraries.

Mufcipula Lobelij., with a triangular
Seed-Veilel, called by Herbarijis
V accaria., Scrophularia 'Tradefcanti^
and fome others. The Dodor was
not then at home, elfe it is likely we
might have obferved more. At Pon-
tefraSl., every Fortnight, on Satur-
day^ is a Market or Fair kept for all
forts of Cattle, from Lady-Day to
Michaelmas. Great Plenty of Li-
quorice.^ and the beft in Lngland.,
is planted about this Town; alfo
Shrrets (e). Pierpoint\ Houfe in this
Town is worth the taking Notice of.

Atigujl the 3d, We rode to
Knarejborough 20 Miles, but long
ones, the Way mountainous. We
pafied through Cafikfyrth (f)y an an-
tient Town, about three Miles from

(e) Or, as Camden calls them, Skirworts»

(f) Called by Camden Cajileford,

■ PontefraEi\

• Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 153

PontefraSl ; where are fometimes
digged up antient Roman Coins ;
fome we gathered up among the
People who had found them. We
paffed alfo the River Calder at Med-
ley-Bridge. By the Way we had a
Profpedlof Leadjlon-Hall^ belonging
to Sir John Lewis., and another great
Houfe of the Blands on the Right
Hand. Then we rode through a
Btijhety or Common, called Rodwell
Hake, two Miles from Leeds, where
(according to the vulgar Tradition)
was once found a Stag, with a Ring
of Brafs about its Neck, having this
Infcription,

When Julius Cselar here ivas King,

About my Neck he put this Ring :
Whofoever doth me take.

Let me go for Cxiar’s Sake. 1

Thence we had a ProlpeT of thei?^^-
Hall at JVhiikirk, belonging to Sir

Arthur

154 Mr. RAY 's Itineraries,

Arthur Ingrame., where King James
was faid to be begotten. At Leeds (a
large and rich Town, which hath a
great Trade for Cloa thing) we faw
the new Church, which had been
lately built by one Harrifcny at his
foie Charges, without accepting fo
much as a Day’s Work from any
Man. This Harrifon^ from a poor
Boy, came to great Eftate, the moil
whereof he bellowed in building this
Church, and Alms-Houfes for 30
poor Perlbns, which are near the
Church. He is much commended
there for his Juftice, Temperance,
and Charity. At Knarejborough., on
the River Nid., we law divers me-
morable Things; as Firll, St. Ro~
bert\ Chapel., a little Thing having
an Altar in it, all hewn out of the
living Rock ; on the Outhde, at the
Door, is the Statue of St. Robert,
cut out of the Rock, The old Wo-

man,

jWr. RAYV Itineraries., 155

man, who in a great mealure gets
her Liv'ing by fhewing Strangers this
Chapel, told us many Stories out of
the Legend of St. Robert : Some of
which, becaufe we had before heard
the Story of that Saint, we thought
fit to commit to writing. King
yobfiy then, when he lived in the
Caftle of Knarejboroughy fent once
for this St. Robert, W’ho happening
to be at his Devotions in this his
Chapel, refufed to go with the Met-
fingers. The Meflengers returning
to the King with a Denial, were fint
back again to tell St. Robert, that he
muft leave off his Devotions and
come to the King, or elfi that he
would fetch him. St. Robert ftill
' refufing to go, fint the King an Ear
of Corn, with thefi Words, That he
was ferving Him who made that, and
unlefs he could make fuch another,
he would not attend ’on him till he

had

156 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

had finiflied his Devotions. A Se-
cond Legend of St. Robert is this.
St. Robert going to the King., com-
plained to him that his Deer in the
Foreji of Knarejborough did the
poor Mens Corn much Harm; the
King merrily alked him, Why they
did not pound them ? whereupon St.
Robert catcheth two of the Stags,
and putteth them into the Pinfold.
The King wondering at it, alks him
what he would defire in Recompence
for the Poor. The Saint anfwered.
Only as much Land as he could plow
round with two Stags, in the Time
of Divine Service. The King grant-
ing his Requeft, he encompafled a
great Quantity of Land, which is
now in the Occupation of the Sling-
byes. The Picture of the Plow and
Bucks is in one of the Church Win-
dows at Knarejborough'. Another
Legend of this Saint is, that a cer-
tain

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 157

tain Fellow feigned himfelf a Cripple;
had tied up one of his Legs, and
came to beg fomething of St. Robert ^
making great Complaint of his Lame-
nefs and Poverty. St. Robert., being
very compaffionate and charitable, ,
faith to him, I have nothing left but
one Cow, and that give I thee, > as
freely as ever God gave it me.
Whence it is to this Day a Proverb
among them thereabout. As free as,
St. Robert gave his Cow. So ibon
as the Fellow took the Cow by the
Horn to lead her away, he proved a
Cripple indeed, and could not let
down his Leg. The Pidlure of this
alfo is in one of the Church Win-
dows. Sir Henry Slingjby his Monu-
ment, built by himfelf before he was
beheaded, is in this Church of Knares-
borough. We went to fee St. Robert" ^
Well, about a Mile diftant from the
Town. Hence we went to the Drop-

7

158 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

ping-Well.y fo called, becaufe it falleth
from a Cliff or Precipice not far from
the River; it rifeth' in the Field a
good Diftance from the Place, where
it falls down the high Bank ; and
any other running Water that falls
down a Precipice might as well be
called a Dropping- Well. Any dry
Thing the Water covers over with a
Cruft or Bark of Stone ; but foft,
fpongy, and fucculent Things (into
which it can foak and inftnuate itfelf,
as Mofs, Green Leaves, Earth, ^c.)
it feems to convert into Stone, or at
leaft, the Water petrifying in the
Pores of them, makes the whole feem
to be Stone.

Augufi the 5 th, We went to the
Spaw at HerrigatCy and drank of the
Water. It is not unpleafant to the
Tafte, foraewhat acid and vitriolick :

■ Galls turn it into a dark Blue, fome-

what

il/r. RAY’j Itineraries. 159

what purplifli: It works chiefly by
Urine. Then we viflted the Sulphur-
Well^ whofe Water, though it be
pellucid enough, yet ftinks noifomely
like rotten Eggs, or Sulphur 'aura-
tufn diaphoreticum. It taftes very
Salt, and upon Evaporation (as we
were told) leaves behind a copious fixt
Salt. Silver put into it is fuddenly
changed into a golden Colour, and
being left a while in it, becomes
Tlackifh. Thence we went to f^J St.
Mugnus his Well at Copgrave^ whi-
ther a great Number of poor People
refort to bathe themfelves. They
puron their Shirts wetted in the water,
letting them dry upon their Backs.
This Water operates (if at all) by its
extraordinary Coldnefs and Aftrin-
gency: Near St. Mugnus is a Well
of great Virtue for the Eyes, which '

(g) But according to 5t. Mongahs,.

they

i6o Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

they call the Rye-Well. We thought
it not worth the while to fpend much
Time to make Obfervations about
thefe Waters, becaufe they are already
the Subjed of two little Treatifes,
one by Dodor Deane., the other by
Dodor French, who, (elpecially the
latter) have written well and to the
Purpofe, with much Fidelity, of the
Properties and Virtues (together with
their Caufes) ol all thefe Waters.
The fame Day we viewed Rippo?t, a
pretty Town, having a large fquare
Market-Place; the Minjier there is
much inferior to Beverley Minjler\
one of the Steeples lately falling,
broke down the Roof of one Wing
of the Church, fo that the whole is
now much out of Repair. In a
Vault, under the Body of the Church,
called St. Willfrid\ Chapel, we law
the Hole through a Wall, which
they call St. Willfrid\ Needle, where-
by

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. i6i

by the Priefts of old were wont to
try Women’s Chaftity. She that was
a Virgin eahly creeping through, but
fhe that was corrupted (h) flicking
fafl by the Way. Here we omitted
the Sight of Fountains Abbey where
(i) Robin Hood\ Bow is kept ; a very
pleafant and deledtable Situation ; as
alfo of St. Willfrid\ Well., the tu-
telar Saint of this Town. We were
there the Day after St. Willfrid\
Sunday, which is efteemed, by the
Inhabitants, a great Feftival, and
thereon was wont to be held a great
Fair after Evening Prayer. Leaving
Rippon, we paffed the fame Day to
Borough-Bridge, where we viewed

(h) An old Writer has obferved, “ However
‘‘ the Thing may feem a Fable at firft Sight,

yet if the Women, that have play’d falfe, be
“ with Child, it may be true without Wonder.”

(i) This Outlaw lived in the Reign of
Richard I.

M

the

i62 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

the three Stones called the Devil's
Bolts or Arrows by the Vulgar, and
about which they have, a Legend.
They are tall and flender, four-
fquare, of a pyramidal Figure, but
not v'ery fharp at the Top. They
feemed to us to be fadlitious Stones,
but yet endure the Weather exceed-
ing vvell, and may, in Probability,
Hand there till Dooms-day. About
a Mile hence, at a Place called Ald-
btirgh (a fmali Village now, but of
old a good Roman Town, and as yet
a Borough), we gathered up among
the People divers ancient Roman
Coins, bctli Brafs and Silver, which
are daily found in the plowed Fields,
and about tlie Streets there. Thofe
Pieces that have radiate Crowns on
the Pleads of the Effigies, they call
Saracens Heads., all the reft Aldburgh
Half-pennies. Here we faw a Piece
of the antient Roman Pavement, per-

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. /163

haps that which they called T’ejfella-
ttmi. The Pieces of the Pavement
which we faw, were about two Inches
Diameter, not perfedly Square, but
of the Form of a Lozenge, fome
. Red and fome Black, which we lup-
pofe were Marble. This Night we
lodged at a fmall Village called Ma-
merWi., about fix or feven Miles
from York.

Augufi the 6 th, We rode back
again to York. There firft of all we
vifited the Minfter, which is, indeed,
a large and flately Fabrick, but in
fome Things inferior to Beverley
Minjier^ viz. in the Multitude of
marble Pillars, and in the arched
Roof of Stone. The Body of the
Church and Choir is very broad,, the
Lanthorn high and large, whieh we
afeended by 274 Steps, many of
them high ones.' The Front of the
M 2 Choir,

1 64 Mr. RAY’ 's Itineraries.

Choir, refpedting the Body of the
Church, is adorned with the Statues
of ali, the Kings of the Houfe of
York, carved in Stone. It is faid,
there is a large Vault under the
Choir, and from thence a Paflage to
Oufe-Bridge. There are divers an-
tient Monuments in the Church, but
none very fumptuous; at the Eaft
End the Tomb of Yobias Matthews,
Archbifliop, who gave his Library
to the Church. We fearched for,
but found not, the Grave-Stone of
Winwall, on which was this Infcrip-
tion -in Latm ; Mujictis Logicus
Winwall hie jacet ecce Johannes. Or-
ganamque loqui fecerat ilk quaji.
Which a certain witty Gentleman
thus rendered into Rnglijh,

Mufician and Logician, John Winwall
lieth here, ■

Lhe Organs for to fpeak, that made even as
it "Were.

I They

Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

They have ftill 'preferved in this
Church their fair Communion Plate^
moft of it given by King Charles I.
There is alfo a Common-Prayer Book
and a Bible, with gilded Silver Clafps
and Bolles, given' by the fame King ;
and bn the Infide of the Clafps is in-
fcribed Ex dono Regis Caroli, 1633.
In the Wall of the Veftry is a Well of
very fweet and plealant Water, called
St. Peters Well, which taftes almoft
like Milk. There is a large odfagonai
Chapter-houfe of 21 Yards Diameter,
at the Door whereof is that Verfe^
■mentioned by Heylin,

Ut Rofa fos jioriim.^

Sic ejl Domus ijla Domorum,

York is a large City, and indifferently
well built; the Streets handfome, but
narrow ; it hath 24 Churches in it.
We obfcrved the great Arch of Oufe-
Bridge, but could not exadly mea-
M 3 fure

i66 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

fure the Breadth of it, but gueffed
it to be about twenty Yards. We
remarked an Houfe on the Pavement
fb over-hung, that the Top of the
Building projected five Yards beyond
the Foundation. The City of York
is governed by a Lord-Mayor, 1 2
Aldermen, 24 Afliflants, 8 Cham-
berlains, 64 Common-Council Men,
and two Sheriffs.

Augufi the 7 th, We diretffed our
Courfe for Scarborough^ and that
Night lodged at N ew-Malton^ 1 3
Miles from York. We palled by
Kirkham- Abbey and at a Piflance
favv Croke^CaJile., and Sheriff-Hutton
Caflle, The Country about York is
near a Level every Way, for at lead:
ten Miles Riding, There is at Mal~
ton a fmall Springj which feems to
be of the fame Nature with the
Knarejhorough Spaw; it is ill kept,'

and

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 167

and no plentiful Spring. At this
Town is a famous Horle-Fair, kept
on September the 29th, and for the
befl Saddles. ' Here is a good Houfe
of the Lord Eures.

Augujl the 8th,, We arrived at
Scarborough., diftant from Malton 1 6
Miles. This Town hath a great
Trade of Fifh taken thereabout. We
faw Ling, CodfiJJj, Skate, Thorn-
back, Turbot, Whiting, and Her-
ring. They take alfo Conger, Bret,
Haddock, and Mackrell. They have
an artificial Flarbour or Pier, made
of vaft Stones, piled one upon ano-
ther, without Cement, for Security
of their Veffels of Trade. The like,
though not fo large, is at Lyme in
Dorfetjkoire, called the Cob: We

obferved in Ling the intejlina c^ca,
which -they call Kelk, to be larger,
and fewer, in Number, than in the
M 4 Codjijlo,

I

i68 Jlfr. RAW Itineraries.

Codjijh. The Idurbot hath three large
intejiina cceca a little below the
Stomach, which is alfo very large.
We faw there, among others, a long,
large, cartilaginous Fiih, which they
call an Hay^ not much unlike (they
fay) to a Dog-Ftjh. The Haddock
is fomewhat like to a TVhiting^ but
larger ; it hath a great Head, -pro ra-
tione Corporis^ and large Eyes. It is
marked about the Middle of the Body
with a Black Spot on each Side,
about the Bignefs of a Three-pence,
which (they fay) is the Print of St.

Thumb and Fore-Finger, be-
tween which he took up that Fiih,
and marked it for himfelf. We faw
here two Sorts of StarJiJJoes^ the com-
mon one with five Radii, and another
which hath ordinarily thirteen, fome-
times fourteen, as vve obferved in
one or two. Flere is a Piece of a
Caflle Handing upon an high (Sliff,

hanging

Mr. RAY’i Itineraries. i6^

hanging over the Sea on one Side,
and the Town on another ; a Place
of great Strength, and ftill held, with
a Garrifon : There is a Well of frefh
Water within Half a Yard of the
Edge of the Top of the Cliff (kjy
only an Hill, about half a Mile or
more diftant,- matches, if not ex-
ceeds, it in Height. We drank of
the Spaw Water there, which, by
Report of thofe who have tried
both, is more nimble in its Working
than the Knarejhorough Water, and
purges more by Stool. The Powder
of Galls prefently turns it to a murry
or purplifh blue Colour, not' much
unlike to the Syrup of Violets, and '
by ftanding (as Dr. Witty obferves)
an Hour or two, we found that it
would grow clear again, and preci-
pitate to the Bottom fuch a coloured

(k) See Dr. TVittf% Book.

7

Powder

170 Mr. RAY 's Itineraries.

powder in great Quantity. We tried
alfo to coagulate therewith ' boiling
Milk, which by boiling a while to-
gether it did, yet but faintly, and
made us a Poflet not unplealant to
drink. The Well is at the Foot of
the Cliff by the Sea-Side, about Half
a Mile from the Town Southward.
On the Shores hereabout are found
clear White Pebbles, which by Jewel-
lers are poliflied and cut in the Man-
ner of Diamonds, and placed in
Rings.

Augufi the 9th, From Scarbo-
rough we journeyed to lVhithy\ 1 2
Miles; the Way ftony and uneven,
much like the Peak Ways in Derby-
Jhire. We pafled by a little Village
called Robin Hood\ Bay, near where-
to, on the Afcent of the Hill, by
the Way Side, we took Notice of a
vitriolick Well, of the fame Tafte

with

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 171

/

with the Spaws, fo far as we could
judge. Upon theShores about
we found long Sea-Laces of a Yel-
low Colour, of about one Yard and
an Half in Length, and fmalleft at
both Ends, call up by the Working
of the Sea, fomewhat bigger than
the largeft Packthread commonly
fold in Shops. Alfo two Sorts of
Fucus marinus, befides the common
Phafganoides. The one arifeth with
a round Stalk, of about the Bignefs
of a Finger, more or lefs, and about
a Foot long, and then follows ' one
only hngle undivided broad Leaf, of
a Yard or more long, and fome-
times three or four Inches broad,
wrought, as it were, all along with
extuberant Lines waved to and fra
It fomewhat refembles a broad
wrought Leathern Girdle or Belt;
The other, which is the Fucus mart-,
nus fecundus Dod. Park, is branched

at

I

172 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries,

at Ibme Diftance from the Root, and
narrow, refembling Thongs of Whit-
Leather. A little above the reft we
found, in all that we obferved, a
round Circle like a Rotula about the
Stalk, of about an Inch Diameter or
more, of the fame Subftance with
the Fucus^ but thinner. This Plant
might be better exprefled by a Figure,
than delcribed by Words. All along
in the Cliffs, and on the Shore, are
/ found in great Plenty the Serpent-
Stones^ called by Naturalifts in Latin.^
Cornua Ammonis. We were fome-
what puzzled to get them entire out
of their Matrices^ the ufual Way of
heating them in the Fire very hot,
and then quenching them in the
Water, not always fucceeding; many
of thefe Stones were imperfedl. In
this CHff or Rock (which is nothing
but Alum-Mine) we found alfo Plenty
of the Lapides belemttites, or Thunder-

Stones,

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 173

Stones. Another Sort of Stones we
found there refembling Cockles, or
rather a Sort of Mufcles. There is
alfo Lapis Gagates, or Jet., found in
the Cliffs hereabout ; but we met not
with any, befides a Stone which is or
refembles Brafs-Mine. The Country
People hereabout told 'us the Story
related by Camden., that wild Geefe.,
if once they light in Whitby Strand,
cannot rife again or fly away, as the
Rhyme is ;

If the Wild Goofe lights in Whitby Strand,
The leaf Bearn that is, may take her up in
his Hand.

Here hath been a very large and fair
Abbey, the Church whereof is yet
ftandirig almoft entire. This belongs
to the Cholmondeleys. There are the
fame Sorts of Fifh taken at Whitby
as at Scarborough', and fome others
they named to us, as Dabs, Billards,

White-

I

174 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

Whitemawes., Sword-Fijhes^ Seahy
&c. which we faw not. Near this
Town are one or two Alum-Works.
(1) The Procefs of making Alum we
partly faw, and partly received by
Relation from the Workmen. In
the Alum-Mine are found very hard
round Stones, which the Workmen
call Cats-Headsy ob Similitudinem.

We faw here all along the Shores
the People making of Kelpy which
they do, by laying the Alga fu-
cus marhius on Heaps, and when it
is dry^ burning it ; while it is burning,
they flir it to and fro with an iron
Rake, and fo it condenfes and cakes
together, in the manner we fee Kelp ;
whereas, lliould they not ftir it, it
would go to Afhes, as other Plants

burned ufe to do ; fi Jides autoribus.

\

(1) Of which, an Account may be feen in
Mr. Haj’s Colle^Hcn of EngliHi Words,

Whitby

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 175

Whitby hath a very fair and com-*
modious Haven: About fixty Ships
of eighty Tons a-piece, or more,
belong to this Town : It is governed
by Twenty-four Burgeffes. S. Hil-
dasy by his Prayers, delivered the
Country from Snakes, which were
changed into thefe Stones (vide Cam-
den ) ; Ji credere fas ft.

From Whitby.^ Augufl the 12 th,
We haftened to Gijburgh (m) where
we faw the Ruins of that famous
Abbey, the Church whereof feems
to have been comparable to the bell
Cathedrals in England. We alcended
the Top of that noted Hill, called

'(yn) Formerly (faith Camden) very famous
“ for a beautiful and rich Monaffery — -and may,
‘‘ in Point of Pleafantnefs, and a grateful Va-
riety, and other Advantages of Nature, com-
pare with Puteoli in Italy — See Biihop Gih-
fon\ Edition of Camden^ p. 91Q.

Kofeberry.y

176 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

Rofeberry.) or Ounjberry ‘Topping., the
Top whereof is faftigiate, like a
Sugar Loaf, and ferves for a Sea-
mark. It may be feen at a great
Diftance, viz. from Stanmore, which
is in a right Line above 20 Miles off.
From hence we had a Prolpedl of
that pleafant and fruitful Vale, Part
whereof is called Cliveland, a Coun-
try noted for a good Breed of Horfes.
The V/ays here in Winter Time are
very bad, and almoft impailable,
according to that proverbial Rhyme,

Cliveland in the Clay,

Bring in two Soles, carry one away.

Near tliis Hill we went to fee a Well
celebrated -for the Cure of fore or
dim Eyes, and other Difeafes. Every
' one that walhes in it, or receives Be-
nefit by it, ties a Lacinia, or Rag
of Linnen or Woollen, &‘c. on a
Shrub or Bufii near it, as an Offer-
ing

Mr. RAY’j ItiMeraries. ' 177

ing or Acknowlegement. The
People of Gijhurgh are civil, cleanly,
and well-bred, contrary to the Tem-
per of the Inhabitants of Whitby.^
who, to us, feemed rude in Behaviour,
and fluttifh. In the Way from
Whitby to Gijhurgh.^ wc paffed by
Freeburgh Hill., which they told us
was call: up by the Devil, at the En-
treaty of an old Witch, who dehred
it, that from then'ce fhe might efpy
her Cow in the Moor. On this
Moor, not far from Freeburgh Hill.,
we found Bifolium minimum f. B.
At Gijburgh there are two Alum-
Works, one belonging to the D' Ar~
cies, the other to the Challoners, not
wrought at prefent.

Augujl the 1 3 th, We obferved all
along in the Midland, many Miles
from the Sea, Store of Sea-Plantain.
We rode to Durefme, 24 Miles
N to

*

178 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

to wit, from Gijburgh to Stockton^
where we ferried over the T^ees^ 8
Miles; by the Way we faw at a Dif-
tance, the ftrong, now poor Town
of Hartlepool ; from' Stockton to
Hurefme 16 Miles. Hurefme is a
large fcattering Town, but in moft
Mens Account plealantly fituate ;
encompafled with the River Were
almoft round, the remaining Neck
of Land walled. The River is
palTed with three fair Stone Bridges.
The Suburbs are greater, by much,
than the Town contained within the
Walls , and River. The Cathedral
Church is a very plain and mean one,
but a ftrong Building; the Pillars
great and bulky ; there is a very fair
Cloifter yet remaining, and a Num-
ber ■ of handfpme Stone Buildings,
which belong to and Fre-

hendaries. The Bifhop’s Palace (all
that he hath- in the Town) is the

Caftle,

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 179

Caftle, where alfo the Aflizes are-
held. The Bifhop entertains the
Judges, here being no Sheriff but
himfelf.

Augufi the 14th, We rode to
Newcaftle^i 12 Miles; in the Way- we
favv Lumly-CaJUe., a gallant Build-
ing. This Town is large and well
built, efpecially about the Market-
Place and Key, where the Houfes,
for Height and Shew, are compara-
ble to the Houfes in Ljondon. By
Reafon of its great Trade it is very
populous, in Multitude of Inhabi-
tants thought not inferior to the City
of York. A fair Stone Bridge of
nine Arches joins it to Gatefide or
GateJheadj which is the Name of
that Part of the Town which lies on
the -South Side of the River. This
Town is notable for four Things.
I. The Strength and Thicknefs of
N. 2 ■ the

i8o Mr. RAW Itineraries.

the Walls. 2. The Key, which is
thought to be as convenient, ufeful,
handfome, and deep, as any in Eng-
land. 3. The crofs Arch of Stone
on one of the Steeples. 4. And ef-
pecially the great Trade of Coals,
Salt, Grind-Stones exported, ^c. to
which might be added, the newly
built Exchange and Guildhall, a very-
large and fair Room paved with
Black and White Marble. Within
the Walls of this Town there, is an
old Caflle, wherein the Affizes for the
County are held, which is not within
the Liberties of the 'Corporation.

Augujl the 15 th, V/e travelled
from Newcajlle through Morpeth., to
'Alnwick, 26 Miles, which Town is
under a Bailiff', every Trade chufes
an Alderman; the chief Trade is
Tanning. Here we faw-a goodly
and ftrong Caftle, well walled,': and

, not

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. i8i

not yet run much to Decay, belong-
ing to the Earl of Northumberland.
This Country is thinly inhabited,
very bleak and barren.

Augujl the 1 6 th, We rode in
Sight of the Holy IJland (n), but
the Tide ferved iis not to pafs over.

Here

(n) When Mr. Ray^ with Mr. WlllifeU made
a Second Simpling Voyage (as he expreiles it) into
thefe Parts in the Year 1671, he remarked as
follows j to wit, “ July the 2 2d, We rode from
“ Cheviot., or rather Waller or Wooler^ to the
‘‘ Holy IJland., 9 Miles. Where we gathered, on
‘‘ the Sea- Shore, under the Town, thofe Stones
which they call St. Cuthherfs Beads, which
‘‘ are nothing elfe but a Sort of Entrochi^

“ From the Holy IJland we rode over the Sands
to Gofewick^ and fo on to Berwick^ 7 Miles.

“ We refted at Berwick Sunday July the 23d ^
and in the Forenoon heard one Smithfon., Mini-
“ Her here ; in the Afternoon we walked out to
‘‘ Mcrrington to hear a Scottijb Sermon, in a very
fmall Farifh Church. In the Holy IJland I
N 3 found

j82 i>/r. ray V It INERAP.IES.

Here we had with Confidence affert-
ed and confirmed to us this Legend

that

found growing, Aparine major Plinii : Upon
“ the Walls of Berwick^ by the Sea-Side, Ery-
fimum latifolium Neapolitanum, About 2 Miles
from Berwick^ by the, Side of a Rivulet, in a
boggy Ground, not far from the Road lead-
ing to Edinburgh^ we found a Sort of Pfeudo-
afphodelus which I had never before feen, much
lefs than that common in England^ having,
‘‘ as I guefs, White Flowers in a Spike, to
which fucceed roundifh Seed-VefTels. The
“ Stalk of the Spike is naked, or not having
above one Leaf, the Spike itfelf fhort, the
Root fibrous, as that of the common.

‘‘ July the 24th, We left Berwick^ and rode
fir ft to Scrammerjlon-Mill^ about a Mile and
an Half diftant, where we obferved the Echium
marlnum \ it hath a Blue Flower, almoft of
“ the Figure of Honey-wort^ but fhorter. The
“ Leaves are fmall, of a Glaucous Colour, like
to Woad or Hounds -Tongue *, for Figure not
much unlike the Sea-Beet^ but lefs,

‘‘ Thence we rode to a Village called Bambo-
roughs nigh to the Earn IJlands^ where Sir
WiUiam Forjlcr dwells. There is an old Caf-

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. .183

that the Ebbs are fo great, and Floods ■
fo low,, on the Lord' s Day., that a

Man

‘‘ tie (landing on a Rock, which was once very
‘‘ ilrong ; alfb the Ruins of an old Abbey.

The following Birds build on the Farn--
“ IJlands-, Guillimets^ Semis or Razor Bills ^ Court-
‘‘ ternehs^ which build in Holes, and I guefs
‘‘ them to be Anates Aruticie Clufii^ Scarfs.^ i. e,
“ Shags Cornub. Cuihbert-Duck^ bigger than a
Wild-Duck^ of a Brown Colour, the Drake is
‘‘ White on the Back, the Tail and Feathers of
the Wings Black, the Legs ’alfo Black. It
hath a Pojikus Digitus ; the Bill is fcarce fo
“ long as a Duck’s*, the fuperior Mandible is a
“ little crooked at the End, and over-hangs the
inferior: But that which is mod' remarkable*
“ is, that on both Sides the Bill, the Feathers
“ come down in 'an acute Angle, as -far as the
“ Middle of the Noftril below. Puffinet.,^hich is
“ as big as a Pigeon, hath afmall fharp-pointed
“ Bill, Black in the Summer, having only a
“ White Spot in each Wing, but White in
‘‘ Winter, lays two Eggs, and builds in an
Hole under a Rock. Annet, a Gull, but
fmall and White, only the Tips of the Wings
Black, Yellow Bill. Cattiwike: Mire-Crow^

ail White- bodied, only hath a Black Head, a
N 4 “ little

1 84 Mr. RAY’^It INERARTES.

Man in the Morning may go in thi-
ther to Divine Service, and in the
Evening return home dry on Foot
throughout the whole Year, though
on other Days it be impoflible to do
the like. There may be feen in this
Illand a ftrong, and almoft impreg-
nable Fort or Caftle, and an old
Church. We faw alfo Farn IJJand
at a good Diftance. The Country
abounds with Caftles, by reafon of its
Vicinity to Scotland. The Church in
Holy IJle is reputed the moft ancient
Cathedral in England, built by S.

little bigger than a Pigeon. Puets, Pick-
Mire^ i. e. a Sea Swallow, fo7dK ^ern^ a
“ fmall GulU the lead of all, having a forked
“ Tail. Sea-pots., i. e. Sea^pies., as far as I
could guefs. Great Quantity of Sea-Cahis
“ taken upon thefe Iflands, whereof the Farm-
ers make their chief Profits, viz, of their
“ Oil. Kir-Bird^ a Sort of Columbus^ lefs than
‘‘ a Magpy, Black and White, and (lands drain
upright. Gorges, a Fowl bigger and redder
than a Partridge.’’

Cuthbert^

Mr. RAY’f Itineraries. 185

Cuthbert-y wliofe Body, by the Monks
of this Church, was conveyed to
Durefmey when the Danes pillaged
and fpoiled the Ijland. This Night
we lodged at Berwick ; our Journey
was of about 25 Miles. The River
'Tweed is here joined with a Stone
Bridge of 15 Arches. Here hath
been a very goodly Caftle, which is
now demolilhed. The upper Town
is encompalTed with a Wall which is
not very ftrong; within this Wall is
a large void Ground or Green,! where-
unto the Inhabitants bring their Cat-
tle, and let them flay all Night, and
in the Morning drive them out again
to Failure. The lower Town is very
ftrongly fortified with a broad and
deep Ditch of Water, and againft it
an impenetrable Bulwark or Bank of
Earth, faced with Free Stone againft
the Ditch. There are alfo for De-
fence, four tall Platforms or Forts,
f 2 ' befides

i86 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

beiides external Fortifications. This
Town is ftill kept with a ftrong Gar-
rifbn. There is in it a fair Church,
built by Oliver ProteBor. Here we
faw, in the Cliff by the Shore, a
Cave called the Burgeffes Cave, not
worth the remembering, and an Hole
in a Rock, through which a Boat
may pafs at full Sea, called the
Needle s-Bye.

Augujl the I yth. We travelled to
Dunbar., a Town noted for the Fight
between the Englijh and Scots. The
Scots , generally (that is the poorer
Sort) wear, the Men Blue Bonnets on
their Heads, and fome Rulfet; the
Women only White Linnen, w’hich
hangs down their Backs as if a Nap-
kin were pinned about them. When
they go abroad none of them wear
Hats, but a party coloured Blanket,
which they calf a Plad, over their

Heads

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 187

Heads and Shoulders. The Women
generally to us feemed none of the
handfomeft. They are not very
cleanly in their Houles, and but llut-^
tilh in drelling their Meat. Their
Way of wafhing Linnen is to, tuck
up their Coats, and tread them with
their Feet in a Tub. They have a
Cuftom to make up the Fronts of
their Houles, even in their principal
Towns, with Firr Boards nailed one
over another, , in which are often
made many round Holes or Windows
to put out their Heads. In the beft
Scoitijh Houles, even the King’s Pa-
laces, the Windows are not glazed
throughout, but the upper Part only,
the lower have two wooden Shuts or
Folds to open at Pleafure, and admit
the frelh Air. The Scots cannot en-
dure to hear their Country or Coun-
trymen fpoken agaiiift. They have
neither good Bread, Cheefe, or Drink.

They

1 88 Mr. R AY’j'Itineraries.

\

They cannot make them, nor will
they learn. Their Butter is very in-
different, and one would wonder
how they could contrive to make it
fo bad. They ufe much Pottage
made of Coal-wort, which they call
Keal, fometimes Broth of decorti-
cated Barley. The ordinary Country
Houfes are pitiful Cots, built of
Stone, and covered with Turves,
having in them but one Room, many
of them no Chimneys, the Windows
very fmall Holes, and not glazed.
In the moft flately and fafhionable
Houfes, in great Towns, inflead of
Cieling, they cover the Chambers
with Firr Boards, nailed on the Roof
within Side. They have rarely any
Bellows., or Warming-Pans. It is
the Manner in fome Places there, to
-lay on but one Sheet as large as two,
turned up from the Feet upwards..
The Ground in the Valleys and Plains.

bears

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 189

bears good Corn, but efpecially Beer-
Barley or Bigge^ and Oats^ but rarely
TV heat and Rye. We obferved little
or no fallow Grounds in Scotland ; .
fome layed Ground we faw, which
they manured with Sea- wreck. The
People feem to be I'^ery lazy, at leaft
the Men, and may be .frequently,
obferved to plow in their. Cloaks.
It is the Fafhion 'of them to wear
Cloaks when’ they go 'abroad, but
efpecially on Sundays. They lay out
moft they are worth in Cloaths, and
a Fellow that hath fcarce ten Groats
befides to help himfelf with, you
fhall fee come out of his fmoaky
Cottage clad like a Gentleman.

- There hath formerly been a ftrong
Caflle at Dunbar^ built on a Rock
upon the Sea, but it is now quite
ruined and fallen down. Yearly,
about, this Time, there is a great

Confluence

190 Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries.

Confluence of People at Dunbar to
the Herring-Fijhing\ they told us,
fometimes to the Number of 20,000
Perfons ; but we did not fee how fo
fmall a Town could contain, indeed
give Shelter to, fiich a Multitude.
They had at our being there two
Minifters in they fung their

Gloria Patri at the End of the Pfalm
after Sermon, as had been ordered
by the Parliament, in thefe Words;

Glare to the Father and the Sonne ^
yJnd to the Holy Gheajl ;

As it was in the Beginning.,

Is now, and aye doth laji.

There is in the Church a very fair
Monument of the Earl of Dunbar^
George Howme., made in King yatnes^
Time.

Augujl the 19th, We went to
Leith., keeping all along on the Side

of

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 191

of \h.tFryth. By the Way we view-,
ed Fontallon CaJUe., and pafled over
to the Baffe IJland ; where we faw,
on the Rocks, innumerable of the
Soland Geefe (0). The old ones are
all over white, excepting the Pinion,
or hard Feathers of their Wings,
which are Black. The upper Part
of the Head and Neck, in thofe that
are old, is of a yellowilh Dun Co-
lour. They lay but one Egg apiece,
which is White, and not very large :
They are very bold, and fit in great
Multitudes till one comes clofe up to
them, becaufe they are not wont to

(0) In Scotia Anatum, feu Ankrum GenuSy
Bernacles, ex Conchis aut Arhorihus vulgo nafci
perhihetur.^' Ex Everardi Ottonis No tit id pra-
cipudrum Europae Rerumpuh, Cap. IV. Sedl. i.
p. 297. .

This Name of Bernacles^ as applied to the So-
land Goofey explains what Cleavelandy in his Satyr*
upon the Scotch^ means by Feeding on Bernacles.

be

192 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

be feared or difturbed. The young
ones are efteemed a choice Difh in
Scotland., and fold very dear (i^.
8 <3^. plucked). We eat of them at
Dunbar. They are in Bignefs little
inferior to an ordinary Goofe. The
young one is upon the Back Black,
and Ipeckled with little White Spots,
under the Bread: and Belly Grey.
The Beak is lharp-pointed, the Mouth
very wide and large, the Tongue
very fmall, the Eyes great, the Foot
hath four Toes webbed together. It
feeds upon Mackrel and Herring,
and the Flefh of the young one fmells
and taftes flrong of thefe Filh. The
other Birds which neftle in the Bajfe
are thefe; x\\c: Scout, which is double
ribbed; the Cattiwake, in RngUpy
Cormorant ; the Scart, and a , Bird
called the Turtle-Dove, whole footed,
and the Feet Red. There are Verles
which contain the Names of thefe

Birds

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 193

Birds among the Vulgar, two where-
of are,

^he Scout, the Scart, the Cattiwake,

The Soland Goofe Jits on the Loch,

. Yearly in the Spring.

We faw of the Scout's Eggs, which
are very large and fpeckled. It is
very dangerous to climb the Rocks
for the Young of thefe Fowls, and
leldorh a Year pafleth, but one or
other of the Climbers fall down and *
lofe their Lives, as did one not long
before dur being there. The Laird
of this If and makes a great Profit
yearly of the Soland Geefe taken ; as
I remember, they told us 130/.
Sterling. There is in the Me a fmall
Houfe, which they call a Caftle ; it
is inacceffible and impregnable, but
of no great Confideration in a War,
there being no Harbour, nor any
Thing like it. The Iliand will afford

O Grafs

194 RAY’j Itineraries.

Grafs enough to keep 30 Sheep.
They make Strangers that come to
vifit it Burgejfes of the by

giving them to drink of the Water
of the Well, which fprings near the
Top of the Rock, and a Flower out
of the Garden thereby. The Ifland
is nought elfe but a Rock, and flands
off the Land near a Mile ; at Dun-
bar you would not guefs it above a
Mile diftant, though it be thence at
lead: Five. We found growing in
the Ifland, in great Plenty, Beta
marina., Lyck?iis marina nojiras, Malva
arbor ea tnarina ?ioJlras, Cochlearia

rot undifolia.- By the Way alfo we
faw Glajfes made of Kelp and Sand
mixed together, and calcined in an
Oven. The Crucibles which con-
tained the miclted Giafs, they told us
were made of Tobacco-Pipe Clay.

At

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries; ig^

At Leith we law one of thofe
Citadels built by the ProteSior., one
of the beft Fortifications that ever
we beheldj paffiiig fair and fumptu-
ous; There are three Forts advanced
above the reft^ arid two Platforms.
The Works round about are faced
with Free-Stone towards the Ditch^
and are almoft as high as the higheft
Buildings withipj and withal, thick
and fubftantial. Below are very plea--
^ fantj converiientj arid well built
Houfes for the Governor, Officers^
and Soldiers,’ and for Magazines and.
Stores ; there is alfo a good .capaci-
ous Chapel, the Piazza, or void
Space within,- as large as Triniiy-
College (in Cambridge) great Cemrt*
This is one of the four Forts. The
other three are at St-, yohnjlons.^ In-
nertiefy and Ayre; The Building of
each of which (as we were credibly
informed) coft above ioo,opo/. Stpr-
0 2 lings

jg6 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries'.

ling ; indeed I do not fee how it
could coft lefs. In England it would
have coft much more.

At Edinburgh we went to the
principal public Buildings ; thofe are,
I. The Cafik-y a very ftrong Build-
ing, on a precipitious folid Rock.
It is one of the King’s Floufes, but
of no very great Receipt: In it are
kept the Crown and Scepter of Scot^
land. There was then lying in the
Caftle Yard an old great Iron Gun,
which they called Mounts Megy and
fome Meg of Berwick, of a great
Bore, but the Lcngtli is not anfwer-
able tO' the Bignefs. 2. Heriot\
Hofpital, a fquare Stone Building,
having a large Turret at each Corner.
It hath very l^iacious and beautiful
Gardens, and is well endowed. There
is a Cloifter on both Sides ol the
Court, on each Hand as one goeth

in.

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 197

in, and a Well in the Middle there-
of. At our being there it maintained
threefcore Boys, who wore Blue
Gowns ; but they told us it was de-
ligned for other Purpofes. It would
make a very handfome College, com-
parable to the beft in our Univerfi-
ties. Over the Gate, within Side,
Bands the Figure of G. Heriot the
Founder thereof, and under him this
Verfe.

Corporis hcec^ animi efl hoc'opus 'Effigies,

3. The College.^ for the Building of
it but mean, and of no very great
Capacity, in both comparable to Caius
College in Cambridge. Moft of the
Students here live after the Fafhion
of Ley deny in the Town; and wear
no Gowns till they be laureaty as
they call it, that is, commence. At
our being there (being the Time of
the Vacancy) there was not a Student
O 3 in

198 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

in Town ; the Premier alfo, as
they call him, was abfent at L,ondo7i.
In the Hall of this College the King’s:
Commiffioner, Middleton^ was en-r
tertained by the Citizens of Edin-
burgh. 4, The P arliatnent Houfcy
\^'hich is but of. fmall content, as far
as we could judge, not capable of
holding 200 Perfons. The Lords
and Commons lit both in the lame
Room together. There is alfo a
Place which they call the Inner
Ploufe, in which fit 1 5 Lordsy chofen
put of the^Houfe, as it were a grand

Comihittee. There is an outer Room

* * » ’

like the Lobby, which they call the
waiting Room ; and two other Rooms
above Stairs, where Commillioners
fit. We faw Mr gyle and Guthrjy
their Heads Handing on the Gates
and Toll-booth. At the Time we
were in S Gotland y divers Women

were

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 199

were burnt for Witches, they report-
ed, to the Number of about 120.-

Anguft the 2 1 ft, We went on
Northward as far as Sterlings 24
Miles. By the Way we faw the
King’s Palace at Lithgow^ built in
the Manner of a Caftle, a t'^ery good
Houfe, as Houfes go in Scot-
land. There is a fmall Lough or
ftanding Water on two Sides of the_
Houfe. This Lough formerly was "
never without Swans : But Mr. Stuart
one of the Bailiffs of the Town, told
us a ftrange Story of thofe Swans,
which left the Lake when the Houle
was taken and garrifoned by the
Englijh ; and although two were
brought on purpofe for Trial, yet
would they not ftay there; but at
the Time of the King’s coming to
London., two Swans, nefcio unde fponte
^ inJlinEiu -proprio, came thither, ,
O 4 and

200 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries;

and there ftill continue. This Stuart
hath nourifhed-in his Garden divers
exotick Plants, more than one would
hope' to find in fo northerly and cold
a Country ; fome fuch as we had not
before fpen, viz. Archangelicay Fu~
7naria Jiliquofa.^ Carduus laSieus pere-
grinus flo. albo, V erhafeum 4 Matth.
dnguJU folium., Attchufa fpecies flo.
parvo nigricantc, Alcea flurreSia lavis^
flo. amplo rubro albo, as we then
named them. Sterling is an indif-
ferently handfome Town, hath a
good Market-place, two Palaces, one
of the Earl of Marr, the other of
the Marquis of Argyle. But the
Caflle is mofi; confiderable, and bath
bees, and, wdth little Cofl, may be
again made, a very magnificent Houfe.
It hath an tiall longer, if not broader,
than 'Trinity-College' Hall in Cam-
bridge. The Building, added by
James V. contains many very flately

Rooms

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 201

Rooms both for Lodging and Enter-
tainment, in many of them very
good carved Wood- Work on the
Roofs. There is alfo a Chapel built
by yanies VI. at tfie Birth of his
eldeft Son, in which we faw a Model
of Edinburgh Caftle, and the Ship
in which tliey lerved up the Meat in-
to the Hall, when Prince Henry was
baptized. This Caflle Hands on an
high and fteep Rock ; under the
Building are many Vaults cut out’ of
the Roc^, and one under another.
The Caftle, on our being there, was
garrifoned with 200 E7^gUpj. The
Commiflary told us that the greateft
Ineonvenience of that Caftle, in Cafe
of a Siege, , was, that upon the Dif-
charging of the great Guns, the Wa-
ter in the Wells would link, and the
Wells become dry; of which it is
ealy to render a probable Reafon.
Sterling-Bridge is conftderable for

nothing.

202 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

nothing, but that it is a Pafs. The
River here, Mceander like, takes
Circuits, and almoft meets itfelf
again, and that for a conhderable
Space, both on the one and the
other Side of the Bridge; fo that
what is by Land but 4 Miles, is by
Water 24.

From Sterling we went, Auguft
the 2 2d,' to Glafccm., which is the
lecond City in Scotland., fair, large,
and well built, crofs-wife, fomewhat
like unto Oxford, the Streets very
broad and pleafant. There is a Ca-
thedral Church built by Bilhop Laiv ;
they call it now the High Kirk, and
have made in it two preaching Places,
one in the Choir, and the other in
the Body of the Church; belrdes,
there is a Church under the Choir,
like St. Faith\ under PauPs, Lo7i-
don', the Walls of the Church-
t Yard

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries. 203

Yard round about are adorned with
many Monuments, and the Church-
Yard itfelf almofl; covered with Grave-
Stones ; and this we obferved to be
the Fafhion in all the conhderable
Towns we came into in Scotland.
The Bifhop’s Palace, a goodly Builds
ing, near to the Church, is ftill pre-
fer ved. Other Things memorable
in this Town are, i. The College., a
pretty Stone Building, and not in-
ferior to TV adham and All Souk Col-
leges in Oxon, The Pr miter, Mr.
Gelafpy, was, removed by the Parlia-
ment there. Here are (as they told
us) moft commonly about 40 Stu-
dents of the firft Year, which they
call Obedient s ; near fo many of the
Second, which they call Semies', and
fo proportionably of the Third, which
they call Baccalors ; and the Fourth,
whom they call Laureat or Magijlers.
It being the Time of Vacancy, v/e

faw-

2©4 RAY’j Itineraries,

faw not the Habits which the Stu-
dents ufe. 2. A tall Building at
the Corner, by the Market-place, of
5 Stories, where Courts are kept,
and the Seffions held, and Prifoners
confined, &^c. upon the Door where-
of is this Diftichj

Hac domus edit, amat, punit^ confervat honor a,
'Ncquitiam, pacem, crimina, jura probos.

3. Several fair Hofpitals, and well
endowed ; one of the Merchants,
now in building. 4. A very long
Bridge of 8 Arches, four whereof
are about 50 Feet wide each; and
a very neat Iquare Flefh-Market,
fcarce fuch an one to be feen in Eng-:
land or Scotland.

Augufi the 2 3d, We rode to Doug-
las^ 20 Miles. We pafled through
EE^'ntilton., by the Way, an hand-
fome little Market-Town, where is

a great

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries, 205

a great Houfe of Duke Hamilton
The Country all thereabout is very
pleafant, and in all refpeds, for
Woods, Failures, Corn, the

befh we faw in Scotland. At Doug-
las there is a Callle belonging to the
Marquefs Douglas., half ,a Mile dif-
tant from the Town ; which, though
it be a free Burgh, and without
Doubt of great Antiquity, yet is a
pitiful, poor, fmall Place, fcarce an
Houfe in it which will keep a Man
dry in a Shower of Rain. In the
Church we faw fome old Monuments
of the Douglajfes, with two Hearts
wrapped up in Lead, which it feems
were of two of that Family that died
in France, and were fent over hither. ■

Augujl the 24th, We rode to
Dumfreis, or (as they Ipelled it)
Drumfrefe, ■ 2 8 Miles, and in the
Way faw Lead Mines, at a Place

called

2o6 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

/

called the Lead-Hills^ which will iij
time, it is likely, inereafe to a good
confiderable Town. We alfo palfied
over much hilly Ground ; the highefl:
Place was called Anderkin-Hill^ up-
on the Top whereof the Air was
fharp and piercing, when iri the
Level it was warm and gentle;
neither yet %yere we on the higheft
Hpex of itj by the Afcent of near
Half a Mile, as we guefled.- This
Hill we judged to be higher than any
we had been upon in England of
Walesy Snowdon itfelf not exceptedi
This is a dangerous Paflage in Win-
ter time, the Way being narrow and
flippery, and a great Precipice on
the one Hand, behdes the Defcent
fteep, fo that we led our Horfes
down about a Mile. At Dumfreis
they have two Miniftersj one a young
Man named Campbell., related (as we
were told) to the M.' of Argyle., the

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 207

other an elder Man, by Name
derfon^ who has married his Daughter
to the younger. Campbell prayed
for the Prefervation of their Church
Government and Difcipline, and
fpake openly againft Prelacy and its ,
Adjunds and Confequences. Here,
as alfo at Dunbar y and other Places,
we obferved the Manner of their
Burials, which is this ; when any one
dies, the Sexton or Bell-Man goeth,
about the Streets, with a fmall Bell in
his Hand, which he tinkleth all along
as he goeth, and now and then he
makes a Stand, and proclaims who is
dead, and invites the People to come
to the Funeral at fuch an Hour.
The People and Minifter many times
accompany the Corpfe to the Grave
at the Time appointed, with the Bell
before them, where there is nothing
faid, but -only the Corpfe laid in.
The Minifter there, in the public
7- V/orfhip,

2p8 Mr. RAY’j itineraries.

Worfhipj doth not fliift-Places.out of
the'Defk into the Pulpit, as in Eng-
land., but at his firfl: coming, in^
alcends the Pulpit. They commonly
begin their Worlhip with a Pfalrri
before the Minifter comes in, who,
after the Pfalm is finiihed, prayeth^
and then reads and expounds in Ibme
Places, in fome not ; then another
Pfalm is fung, and after that their
Minifter prays again, and preacheth
as in England, Before Sermon, com-
monly, the Officers of the Town
ftand at the Church-Yard-Gate, with
a join’d Stool and a Diffi, to gather
' the Alms of all that come to Church.
The People here frequent their
Churches much better than in E7tg~
land, and have their Minifters in
more Efteem and Veneration. They
feem to perform theiqDevotions with
much Alacrity. Tliere are few or
no Sectaries or Opinionifts among

them y

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 209

them; they are much addi(Eled to
their Church Government, excepting
the Gentry, who love Liberty, and
care not to be lb ftri£tly tied down.
The Country abounds with poor
People and Beggars. Their Money
they reckon after the French Manner.
A Bodel (which is the hxth Part of
our Penny) they call Tway-Pennks.,
that is with them Two-pence; fo
that, upon this Ground, 1 2 Pennies,
or a Shilling Scotch (that is, fix Bodels)
is a Penny Sterling. The Scotch.
Piece mark’d with XX, which we
are wont to call a Scotch Two-pence,
is Twenty-pence Scotch that is. Two-
pence Sterling, wanting two Bodels,
or four Pennies Scotch ; the Piece

with XL is Four-pence Sterling 4

Bodels ; and fo one Shilling Sterling
is 12 Sliillings Scotch, Thirteen
Pence Half-penny E7iglijh^ a Mark
Scotch. One Pound Scotch, 20 d.

P Sterling.

210 Mr. RAY’j It INERARIES.

Sterling. One Bodel they call Tiaay-
Pennies (as above), 2 Bodels a Flacky
3 Bodels a Baubeey 4 Bodels 8 Pen-
nieSy 6 Bodels i Shilling Scotch.

Aiigujl the 26th, We bad fare-
well to Scotlandy and, after a Journey
of 24 Miles, arrived at Carlijlc, ford-
ing three Rivers, by the Way, one at
Annan, which, by reafon of our
Ignorance, might have been a danger-
ous Pafs to us. Our Hoft here told
us that he ufed to be troubled with
the Stone, and the beft Remedy that
he ever had Experience of for to give
him Eafe, was the Decodion o
Geranium Robertianum. Carlijle is
low-built, fcarce one fair Houfe in
it, , poor, yet well walled about, and
of good Strength. It hath a large
Market-place, a Caftle, a Citadel
built of Brick, but now ruinous, a
Guard-Houfe in the Market-place,

lately

Mr. RAYV It INER.ARIES. 21 I

lately built of Stone, and a Cathe-
dral Church, the Body whereof hath
been, hnce the civil Wars, pulled
dowHj the Choir ftiil flanding. It is ■
but a mean Building, and poorly
endowed ; the Top hath been indif-
ferently well gilded, and the Seats
round the Choir canopied with hand-
fome carved Work of Wainfcot. In
a little Chapel they fhewed us a
T'omh., which they faid was St. Au-
guftine%. They have preferved there'
two Elephants Teeth faftened in a .
Bone like a Scalp, which they call
the Horns of the Altar. - On the
Backhdes of the Seats of the Choir
have been painted divers Stories, with
Verfes in old Rnglijld., but now al-
mofl; defaced. There is very good
Ground about this Town, and fuch
as for 20 Years together will bear
Corn, without lying fallow. We
ought here to remember Mr. Eglan-
P 2

212 Mr. RAY’^It INERARIES.

hy^ who was very civil to us ; there
we law the antient Infcription which
Camden mentions. From Carlif.e
through Perethf we went to Shap in
Weflmorlandy ■ where we . law tiie
Ruins of the Abbey, very pleafantiy
lituate in a private Valley. Tire
Well called by the Vulgar the A?7ny-
TVell^ that is reported to ebb and
flow; upon the Place fome told us
they had obferved it fo to do ; others,
that though they had oblerved it ,
daily for fome Years, yet they never
could find any fuch' Thing, and
therefore, if ever it did, yet certainly
of lately Years it hath ceafed to ebb
and flow. We found feveral rare
Plaiits growing about Shap in Plenty,
as Ra7iunculus globofuSy Paralyfis Jlo.
rubro, Carduus mollis Helenij foliis
P. B. Sedi qucedam fpecies fiore luteo.,
Salix folio laureo P. B. Prachelium
majiis Belga7~mn^ Geranij Batrachoi-

dis

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 213

dis altera fpecies.) Mufcus clavatus
. abietiformis, and many others.

✓

Augujl the 30th, We crofled the
Country to the Spittle on Stanmore,
By the Way we faw at Appleby the
Cajile belonging to the Countefs of
Pembroke., who hath put it in good
Repair, as alfo the Church and
Bridge. This Lady hath a vaft
Eftate, which £he Ipends partly in
Houfe-keeping and charitable Ufes,
and partly in repairing and furnidi-
ing her Caftles, of which fhe hath 6
or 7 in this Country and Yorkjhire,
now in very good Repair, and well
furnifhed, viz. Appleby, Bronsoham,
Burgh, Pendragon, (about which
fhe hath not a Foot of Land) and
Skipton, &c.

I T I-

214 Mr. RAY’ s Itineraries.

ITINERARY III.

Thursday May sa, 1662,

^ We (a) fet out for St. Neots
upon Afcenfion-day, where was held a
great Fair for Sheep ; thence through
Stanford to Swinjl&d^ a fmall Vil-
lage. Beyond Swinjled on the Left
Hand,, in the Way to Northampmt^
we faw an Houfe belonging to the
Earl of .Bullingbroke-, at a Village
called Melborn. We next paffed
through a very dirty Town, the
Name of which we did not enquire,
and fo leaving Yielding a little on the
Right Hand, we came to Higham^
paffing by feveral little Towns to
Northampton. Upon the Walls there
I faw, growing Saxifraga alba., Hy-
pericum vul?. Calamintha vuh. ^

JO

(a) Mr. JVillughhy accompanied Mr. in
this Journey.

Cotyledon

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 215

Cotyledon vulg. From Northamptoit
we rode through Hill-Morton and
Rugby to Coventry.^ thence to Colejloill^
and then to Middleton. ' On a Bank,
by the Way Side, between Coventry
and CoUpoill., we found a kind of
Vetch, with a bright Purple Flower.
We palled by Sir Clemejit Fijher%
Houfe, where is a Bridge over the
Highway.

Monday May the 1 2th, We rode
out to Sutton Cofeld^ where is a
Clofe called the Park Clofe, belong-
ing to the Free-School. Here we found
Lunaria minor in great Plenty.

Fuefday May the 13th, From
Middleton to Stafford^ we palled on
by the Trent Side, where we obferved
great Plenty of Fumaria alba clavi-t
culata’j all along by the Way Side
we law that kind of Fern which I
P 4 ' firft

2i6 Mr. RAY'j Itineraries.

firft took Notice of in Sujfex. At
Stafford Town there is a fair Market-
place, and a good Seffions-Houfe
builded of Free-Stone, over the Mar-
ket Crofs. Here is a Hofpital for
twelve Widows (a very pretty Place)
built by Martin Nowell in 1,657.
My Lord Affon hath a good Monu-
ment in the Church at Stafford^ of
his Grandfather ; He hath a good
Houfe called Tdixhall., about three
Miles from Stafford. The great
Church called St. Mary % was for-
merly Collegiate, and had three Pre-
bends. The Town is governed by
a Mayor, 1 1 Aldermen, and i o
Common-Council Men. At Riddejly
is a new eredied Market. Mr. JNef-
ton hath a pretty Houfe here.

TV ed^nef day May the 14th, We
paffed ori to Nantwych., 21 Miles.
We diverted out of our Way to fee

the

• M?-. RAY’^ Itineraries. 217

the Pi-iits, which we judged to be a
Sort of Lari, in a Meer at Norbury
belonging to Col. SkrwtJJjaiv. They
build altogether in an Wet in the
Middle of a Pool. Each Hen layeth
3 or 4. Eggs (of a dirty Blue or Sea-
Green fpotted with Black) at the
driving every Year, they take com-
monly above an Hundred Dozen
young, which they fell at five Shil-
lings the Dozen. The Colour of
the Putt is near that of a Sea-mew,
i. e. White and fomewhat flecked,
only the Head is perfedly Black ;
about the Bignefs of a Teal or a
Widgeon. They come to this Meer
the Beginning of March, and are all
gone by the latter End of y^ly, or
before. They ufually drive them
about the 6th or 8 th of yune, fooner
or later. They have fometimes di-'
vided, and Part removed to another
Meer not far off, but this not often.

At

21 8 Afr. RAY’jIt INERARIES.

At Derrington., 3 Miles from Nant-*
wychy Sir Henry Delves has a very
fair Houfe, and a large Pool or Meer
near it by the Road Side; and we
law, among others, thefe Gentle-
men’s Houfes by the- Way, viz. Sir
"Thomas Whitgrave ^ at Whitgravey
Mr. Cope's at Ranton Priory, Mr.
Holland's at Adbajlon. At Nant-
wych there is a fair Church ; the Town
is governed by ten Conlfables ; they
have a Cuftom like that in Scotland ;
when any one is dead, a Bellman
goeth about the Streets the Morning
that the dead Perfon is to be buried,
tinkling a Bell he has in his Hand,
and now and then makes a Stand,
and invites the People to come to
the Funeral at fuch an Hour. From
Nantwych to Weji-Chejlery by Beef-
ton Caftle, 20 Miles. By the Way,
at Bicklyy we faw a Pool in my Lord
Cholmondeley's Ground, which was

made

, Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 219

made by the falling in of the Earth
about the Year 1657: Cujus hifioriam
deferipjity D. F. W. (b), Beejion
Caftle was ftrongly htuate upon an
high Rock, but is now quite fallen
down and ruined. We could not
find any of thofe Plants, which, in
Phytol. Brit, are mentioned to grow
wild there, and fuppofe none fuch
are to be found. By the Way we
obferved Sir ‘Thomas Wilbraham %
Houfe at Woodhay^ and Lord Chol~
mondeky % at Chohnondely., a very
flately Timber Building. At Chejier
we were fhewn a fair Altar with an
infeription, which we copied, and
which was dug up in the Cellar of
the Houfe at which we put up. The
Cathedral Church is remarkable for
nothing except a preaching Place or

{h) Dominus Francifeus Willughby, ut videtur.

Church

2 20 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

Church in the South Wing, and the
Bifliop’s Seat (in the Choir) of Stone.
It is built of a Red vvafhy Stone,
which fuffers much by the Weather.
In the Confiftory lies the Body of the
Earl of Derby^ his Grandfather
wrapped up in Lead and not interred.
Bifhop Bridgeman hath a Vault for a
burying Place, in one of the Mes of
the Choir. By the Bridge-gate there
is a fair fquare Water-Tower lately
built, which ferves a great Part of
the City with Water. The Water is
fucked up by Suckers, like thofe of
Syringes, and flopped from running
out again by Valves, and forced up
into Pipes by the fame Syringe-flop-
pies as the Water is forced out of a
Syringe, and Valves to flop it from
defcending. At the Top of the
Ciflern there is a Pipe to let the Air
out of the Pipes.

Mr. RAY’; It INERARIES. 221

Friday May the 1 6th, From Chef-
ter to IVrexham., and thence to the
Molde, i6 Mile's; by the Way we
faw a fair Houfe of Sir yohn 'Trevors
at Gresford., and an Houle of Mr.
Wyime^ called the 'Tower. Wrex- ^
ha7u is a very fair Market-Town,
the Church Steeple exceeding hand-
fome, adorned with Statues cut in
Stone ; a great Number of poor Peo-
ple about the Town, efpecially old
Women. There is at the Molde a
large fair Church of very good Free-
Stone ; therein is a Stpne Pedeflal
and a Canopy, where, they fay, flood
a living or quick Image. It is the
Cuftom here, as • in other Places' in
Wales., to flrew Green Herbs, as
Rulhes, Flags, Branches of Box and
Flowers, on the Graves of dead Per-
foiis for one Year, and then to cover
them with a- Stone. Near the Molde,
in the Way to Kilken, Baron Ed-
■ wards

222 Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries.

wards (c) has an Houfe. At Kilken
the River Allen runs under Ground for
a little Space. The Channel is full
of Stones, which I fuppofed lay
loofe to fome Depth without Earth,
and the Water runs under them.
There is alfo a Well which (they fay)
ebbs and flows in the Winter Time;
but there was no fuch Thing to be
obferved at the Time of cur being
here.

Saturday May the 1 7 th, We went
on to Holywell., and fo to Denbigh ;
where we flayed Sunday May the
1 8th. This is one of the greateft
Towns of North Wales. We ob-
ferved the fweet Mofs, and the Stones
Ipotted with Red at Holywell. There
hath been a large and flrong Caflle
at Denbigh, but now demolifhed.

(c) ‘‘ Baron of the Exchequer of Chejier.^'

The

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 223

The Town is governed by 2 Aider-
men and 2 BailiiFs, the Aldermen
chief. There is a good Market-
Houfe, and above it a Shire-Hall,
liipported with Stone Pillars. In our
Journey from the Molde, we pafled
by the Lady MoJ}yn%- Houle at Kil-
ken, Mr. yohn Mofyn% Houfe at
Potuary^ Sir yohn Salijbury s Houle
and Park at Llewenjy near Denbigh.
We faw alfo an Houfe of Mr. Wynnes
and the Bilhop of St. Afaph\ at
Llandurnog. On a bulhy Hill near
Denbigh., on the North- Weft Side of
the Town, I found Androf^mum
Campoclarenfe Col. Lycopjis q. an
elegant Plant; belides a great many
of fuch as I had elfewhere found,
viz. 'Tilia fcem. Andfofcemum vulg.
Cardamine pumila bellidis fol. Penta-
phyllum tormentillce facie.

Monday

2 24 Mr. RAY’ j It INERARIES.

Monday May the 19th, We this
Day pafled two Villages, He?dlan
and Llanywith.^ and fo through Bet-
tus to Conway, and from thence to
Bangor. On Penmaen-maur, I found
Lunaria minor, and a fort of- Sedum
minus.

‘Tuefday May the 20th, From
Bangor we rode to Carnethllewelyn,
which fignifies Llewelyns, Bones, a
very high Hill. We had not time
enough to fearch the Rocks, and fo
found no rare Plants there, only
Cotyledon hirfuta, which grows plen-
tifully alfo upon Snowdon Hill. Ban-
gor is a hnall mean Town, the Ca-
thedral very indifferent, not compar-
able to fome of our good Parifh
Churches in England.

We proceeded from Bangor to
■Beaumaris. At Penmaen, three or
2 four

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries. 225

four Miles diftaat from Beaumaris.,

towards Prejihohn, Mill-Stones are

digged up. An Airy of Falcons, at a

Place we did not fet down the Name of

near Holyhead. The Teeth of the

Sheep are died Yellow, that feed on an

Hill called Tryfillum, where fome have

conjectured there are Gold-mines.

At Llandwyn are the Ruins of a

Church, v/hich feems to have been a

very fair one. From Penmaen-maur

to Prejlholm is a large paved Caulley,

vifible at low Water, and the Ruins

of an old Caftle ftill to be feen,

at a very low Spring-tide Ebb,

between the two Penmaens. There

are Firr-Prees digged up in the

Marfhes here, and in Carnarvon-

Jhire. At a Place called the Friery,

about Half a Mile from Beaumaris,

^ «

was found a Stone Coffin of one
of King y<)hn\ Daughters, where-
on - of

2 26 Mr. RAY’j, Itineraries.
of they now make an Hogs-trough

(d)-

*I})urfday May the 2 2d, We v/ent
over to Prejlholm Ifland, in which
we took Notice of the Ruins of St.
Sirians. Chapel ; the Tower is yet
ftanding. There groweth Hippofe-
linum in great Plenty. Cochlearia
vulg. Crithmum., Beta tnarina., and
a fmall Sort of Geranium., which I
had before oblerved in the IJle of
Ma?i. In the Ifland ( Prefholm ) are
bred feveral Sorts of Birds, two Sorts
of Sea-Gulls, Cormorants, Pufists,
'fo called there, which I take to be
.Anas ArEiica Clufij, Razor-Bills,
and Guillems, Scrays two Sorts,
which are a kind of Gull.

(d) It is commonly faid, that the Stone Cof-
fin, in which was laid the Corpfe of Richard
in. after the Battle of Bofcvorth-Fidd.^ was
afterwards ufed at an Inn mLeiceJier.^ as a Water-
ing-trough.

Saturday

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 227

Saturday May the 24th, We rode
to Lland’wyn.f and thence to Carnar-
von. At Llattdwyjt we found Crith-
mum chryfanthemum., ^ vulgare^
Hyacmthus autumnalis minor., Limo-
nium vulg. and a kind of Polypodium.
On the Beaches near Abermenny-
Perry in the Ifle, Gnaphalium mari-
num, and a kind of Peucoium, both
elegant Plants. We found on the
Sea-Shores, near Llandwyn, a pretty
Shell covered with Prickles or Briftles
(e)., which the Welch call Mermaids
Heads’, abundance of them are thrown
up there, all along the Sands towards
the fretum. Upon the Coafts of
Llandwyn are found a pretty fmall *
kind of Conchce venerece Jlriatce : on
all the Shores hereabout are caft up
elegant fmall Cochlece neatly coloured.
We lodged at Carnarvon Satufday

(e) Now well knov/n to be the Echinus.

2 and

228 Mr. R.AY’j Itineraries.

and Szinclay, May the 24th and 25 th.
Here alfo, I found that Species of
Geranium mentioned in Prejlholm.
Near Carnarvoit remain flill fome
Ruins of an old Town, which the
Welch call Caer-Segon., i. e. Segojt-
tium of the Ancients : There is a lit-
tle Chapel, with a Well clofe by it,
dedicated both to St. Rlyn.^ as is alfo
the River faft by, called the Saint’s
River; thele are about a Quarter of
a Mile South of the Town. There
is a Chapel of Eafe'in Catmarvon.^
clofe to the Town Wall ; the Parifli
Church is Half a Mile out of
Town, whereabout old Seg07itimn
flood. Vfe were told a Legend of
one St. BynOy who lived at Clenog-
vaur,y and was wont to foot it four
Miles in the Night to LlaynhayrtiCy
and there, on a Stone in the midfl
of a River, to fay liis Prayers ; where^
on they fliew you flill the Prints of his
2 ' Knees :

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 229

Knees : His Man, out of Curiofity,
followed him once to the Place, to
fee and obferve what he did. The
Saint coming from his Prayers, and
elpying a Man, not knowing who
it - was, prayed, that ■ if he came
with a good Intent, he might receive
the Good he came for, and might
fuffer no Damage ; but if he had any
ill Delign,, that fome Example.might
be fbewn upon him ; whereupon pre-
feiitly there came forth wild Beafts,
and tore him in Pieces. Afterwards,
the Saint perceiving it was his own
Servant, was very forry, gathering-
up his Bones, and praying, he fet
Bone to Bone, and Limb to Limb,
and the Man became whole again,
only the Part of the Bone under the
Eye-brow was wanting ; the Saint, to
fupply that Defedl, applied the Iron
of his Pike-ftafF to the Place,, and
thence that Village was called

Q__ 3 vilkayr?te :

I

230 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

vilhayrne : But for a Punifhment to
his Man (after he had given him
Llanvil-hayrne) he prayed (and ob-
tained his Prayer) that Cle7Wgvaur
Bell might be heard as far as Llari- '
ml-hayrne Church- Yard, but upon
ftepping into the Church it was to be
heard no longer ; this the People
hereabout affert with much Confi-
dence, upon their own Experience, to
be true. This Saint was a Soutb-
Wales yizxx^ and when he died, the
South-Wales Men contended with the
Clenogvaur Men for his Body, and
continued the Contention till Night ;
next Morning there were two Biers
and two Coffins there, and fo the
South-Wales Men carried one away,
and the Clejso^vaur Men the other,

Monday May the 26th, We went
to Ihlanberis., and fo to Bethkellert,
By the Way Side, near the upper

End

Mr. RAYV It INERARIES. 231

End of Lla?iberis Pool, we faw
growing wild, Papaver erraticum
luteu7ti Cafnbro-britamncwn., and near
the Stone Tower there a Species of
Orchis Pabnata., with an odorate
Flower like to Monorchis. We paf-
led a very bad Way, by two great
Pools of Water. The Welch have a
Difh which they call Llumery., made
of Oatmeal, almoft after the fame
Manner of the Amylmn of the Ancients.

In the Lakes hereabout, viz. at
Llanberis, Bettus^ Fejliniog., there is
a Fifh taken called ‘Torgochy blackifh
upon the Back, Red under the
Belly (unde Nomen)., of which they
tell fome fabulous Stories, as that
three Sons of the Church brought
them from Ronie, and put them into
three Lakes, to wit, Llanberis, Lly~
number and Tdraveiinyn, into each
two. They are taken in each Lake,
0^4 but'

232 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

but at one time of the Year, and at
a different time in the feveral Lakes.
At Llanberis they fay, that they are
there taken only id the Night, and
that when it is not Moon-fhine. An
old Man at Beihkellert told me, that
Meum grows upon Carnedwen.^ a
Mountain between Bala and Z)<?/-

'Tuefday May the 27th, We fet
out for Snowdon., and fo to Clenog,
about 1 2 Miles. On Snowdo7t-Hill
we found that Species of Adianthum
jloridum, which we had before ob-
ferved' in TV eft inor land. At Clenog
we faw St. Bay no's Tomb, where-
upon (they fay) if a fick Perfon be,
laid for three Weeks, upon every
Friday, after the third Friday he
will fuddenly either recover or die,
plere is alfo a V/ ell dedicated to St,'
Bayno.

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 233

Wednefday May the 28 th, We
travelled from -Clenog to Aberdaren.,
1 8 Miles. By the Way, we faw the
Rock at Madryn., where • Cryftal
Stones are found. At Aberdaren.^
on the Shores, ' grows the before-
mentioned Leucoium marinum.

Hmrfday May the 29th, From
Aberdaren we ferried over to the iile
of Bardfey., a pretty little Spot, rent-
ed for 50/. per Annwn. There build
the Prejlholm Puffin., Sea-pies, and
fome other Birds ; and there are ftill
to be feen the Ruins of an old Church ;
three more they told us of. Near
thefe Ruins is an Fleap of dead Mens
Skulls, and other Bones of fuch Vo-
taries, as, for the.Sandity of the Place,
had been buried there. We found a
kind of Hyacinthus Jlellatus' vernus
growing there in great Plenty ;
the fame we conjedure grew at

Llandwjm :

234 Mr. RAY' 's Itineraries.

Llandwyn: We found alfo that

Species of Geranium which we had
feen in the IJle of Many and in
Prefiholm'y likewife the new Polypo-
dium on the Rocks, which I find
called by Lobely Chamccflix marma
AnHicana.

Friday May the 30th, We pafled
over from Aberdaren to Pulhely'y and
by the Way faw a Well which the
Welch call Fminan Deuwy i. e. God’s
Well. They fancy it works ftrange
Cures. We did not obferve any nota-
ble Tafte in it, neither would it tinc-
ture Silver, as we were told it would.

They have a Tradition in Wales
about the PuffinSy that they cannot
fly if they be out of the Sight of the
Sea-Water; their Wings are very
fmall, and yet they fly fwiftly, but
feldom very high. Here we faw the

Sea-

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 235

Sea-Swallow., which is of an Afh
Colour on the Back, White under
the Belly, hath a Black Head and a
forked Tail (unde Nomen). The
Bill like that of the Larus cinereus.
We faw another Larus, more Black
upon the Back, and that had Yellow
Legs.

Saturday May the 31ft, We rode
to Harlech, palling two Fords, 16
Miles. Here are yet ftanding the
Walls of an anticnt and ftrong Caf-
tle, built on an high Rock clofe by
the Sands ; alfo a great Level, which
they call the Marfh, which has doubt-
lefs been formerly gained from the
Sea. Hereupon grows in Plenty,
yuncus acutus maritbnus five capi-
tulis Sorghi C. B. of which I fu-
fpeft Phyt. Brit, makes three Plants.
This is a miferable poor Town, yet
is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs,

236 Mr. RAY' 's Itineraries.

and a Recorder. Near P en-morrun
Sir yohn Owen has an Houfe.

Monday yum the 2d, We rode to
Aberdovyy 1 7 Miles, over Marfh
Land and Sand. At Aberdovy lives
the Lady Lloyd., who informed me
that Rubia tinSlorum was found grow-
ing wild on the Rocks there by Dr.
Bowles ; but we had no time to fearch
for it. I found a little Sort of Rujh-
Grafs upon the Rock.

"Tuefday yum the 3d, We travelled
over the Sands, and fo came round
about by Lalabont, to the Silver Mills,
and viewed the Mint at- Lalabont,
and took as exad: a Defcription as we
could of the Silver Works.

Wedmfday yum the 4th, We rode
to the Top of P linillimmon-Hill, and
thence to Llanbadern, 1 7 Miles.

Tldurfday

M?\ RAYV Itineraries. 237

T’hurfday Jum the 5 th, We went
on to Cardigan, where is a Priory
near the Church. By the Way we
-faw the Place where flood a Caflle
called Chriji^nas Caflle, becatile it
was begun to be built in the Chrijl-
mas Holy-Days. On a Common
near Blaynport lie a great many
large Stones ; among the refl, one
flanding perpendicularly on one End
in the Ground, and another large
one leaning upon it, and two others,
one on each Side the leaning Stone ;
thefe Stones they call King Arthur %
^ppoits : Under the le-aning Stone is a
Stone with little Grooves upon it,
Thefe leem to have been fome an-
cient Monument of the Britons (f) or
Saxons, viz. a Trophy for fome Vic-
tory, or Stones reared upon Ibme

( f) Perhaps of the Druids. ^ See tho learned
Mr. Borlafeh Antiquities of Cornwall.

great

23§ Mr. RAW Itineraries.

great Perfon’s Corpfe. The like
Stones we faw upon St. David\
Head ; and they told us, that, in other
Places of the Mountains, the like
were to be feen. We alfo palled by
thereabout a Bank, over which they
throw the wooden Ball that get the
Vidlory over other of the Men of
the high and low Country of Cardi-
gan. This Contention and Sport
for the ^iBOodei^ Ball is yearly on the
Monday in TVhitfun-TVeek. We were
told of a great Stone in a plowed
Field which hath this antient Inlcrip-
tion, Corbide7tJis hie jacet Ordous ;
but this we faw not. Mr. Lewis
hath a pretty Houle at Cardigan.
Mr. Barry is Owner of Cardigan
Illand. From Cardigan., we rode
to a poor Village called' Fijhgard.,
where we were put to it for a Lodg-
ing. Thence we proceeded to St.
David's., where we viewed an old

Cathedral,

Mr. RAY’i Itinkraries. 239.

Cathedral, therein divers ancient
Moniunents, viz. that of the Earl
of Richmond f Father of King Henry
VII. in the Choir. Owen 'Tudor
and another of the Tudor Bifhop
Vaughan Bifhop Hnfelme%^ ^c.
Behind the Choir,’ a handfome Cha-
pel of Bifhop V aughans^ where fit-
ting:, he had Windows fb contrived
into another Chapel behind, called
■ St. Mary s Chapel, that he might
fee five MafTes faid together, at five
feveral Altars. The Steeple is taken
into the Choir, and the Bell-Ropes
hang down into it ; and of the Wings
of the Church are made Chapels.
The Welch have a Proverb, that it
is as good to go to St. David’r twiccy
as to Rome once. There are alfo, in
this Church, the Tomb of St. Da-
vid, and one Wogan, a Gentleman.
This Town is now a poor Place;
not far hence, on the ' Sands, ficod

old

240' RAYV Itineraries.

Menew^ whence the Biihop is ftiled
Menevenjis. At St. David\ Head^
among and upon the Rocks, are •
found Cryjlah or Bajiard Diamo7idsy
like to thofe found at Madryn and
other Places. Here lies a Stone call-
ed the Jljaking Stone^ which they
report formerly a Man might have
moved with his Hand, (it is fo poifed
on its Center) though many Men
cannot remove it from its Place. I
faw no great Wonder in it. It is a
rude Stone, naturally made like to a
Met ay and Handing upon its Vertex.
There I found the Hyacinthus men-
tioned before in Bardfey^ behdes the
Plant which I call Polypodium mart-
numy growing on many Rocks by
the Sea-iide, which it is likely the
Herbarifts may call Filix marinuy or
Adianthmy &c. Leaving St. Da~

(g) See Mr, Borkfe’s Antiquities of Cornwall.

vid’Sy

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 24I

we rode that Night to Haver^
ford Weft.) where we lay on Sunday.
This is the largeft and beft Town
that I have yet feen in Wales ; where
was an old Caftle, now demolilhed.
In the Way hither we oblerved a
Tower called Roche Caftle, which
may be feen at a great Diftance. We
palled by Ramfey Illand, and the
Bifjop and his Clerks.^ Rocks in the
Sea near St. David\. Ramfey Illand
is fo called, from Ramfons plentifully
growing there. Here breed leveral
Species of Birds, fome the fame as
in Preftholm. We law, at a Di-
ftance, Scalme Ifle, where wild
Thyme is faid to grow, but we went
not ' thither. At Haverford.^ near
the River, are the Ruins of an old
religious Houfe, which they call the
Priory; within lefs than a Mile of
the Town, is a fair Houfe of Sir
fohn Stepneys. In this Town are
R three

242 Mf\ RAY’ 's Itineraries.

three Churches. South of the Town,'
by a little River (which is kept up
with Banks to drive a Mill) grows in
great Plenty, Cyperus, &c. q. This is
a Town and County, governed by a
Mayor, Alderman, Sheriff, ^c. and
eledfs a Burgefs for the Parliament.
In a Clofe near the Caflle, I found
'Trifolium cochleatum folio cordato ma-
culato. From Haverford we rode to
Pembroke^ where we faw the Ruins of
the Caftle : In it, by the River’s Side,
a large round Vault in the Rock,
which founds much ; it feems to be
natural. Thence the fame Day to
St. Gohin\ Well^ by the Sea Side,
where, under the Cliff, Hands a lit-
tle Chapel, facred to that Saint, and '
a little below it a Well, famous for
the Cure of all Difeales. There is,
from the Top of the Cliff to the
Chapel, a Defcent of 5 2 Steps. W e
proceeded to Te?jhy^ a Place Hrongly

fituate, ■

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 243

fituate, and well walled; It hath a
very pretty fafe Harbour, made by
an artificial Pier of Stone; Great
Variety of Fifh taken near to this
Town, viz. Cod., Ling^ Mackrel^
Thornback., Soles, Place^ T^urbot, Scar-
hut, Holybut, Conger, Hake, Dog
or Hound- FiJJo, Horn-FiJJo or Sea-
Needles, Haddocks, Gurnards Red
and White, Herrings, Sprats, ■ Mul-
let, and Bajfe,^ Suins, Sharks, Dun-
hounds, Whiting, Bream, Flukes
Grey and White, Cowes,' Bleaks or
Pollacks, Ballon, Smelts, Lobjlers,
Crabs, Porpefs, Grampus, Siels,
Hews, Bull-Heads, Butter-Fijh,
Dots, Bret or Brit, Bowmen, Oyjlers,
Shrimps, Limpings, fmootll and
rough Cockles, Flemings, White arid
Black Hay-Fijlo, Cuttle-Fijloi We
paffed over to Caldey Ille, of which. .
Mr. Williams is Owner, arid werri
civilly received there.- In the Ifland
R 2 are

I

244 Mk RAY'j Itineraries.

are three Chapels, one at the Abbey
Of Priory, and two more. In a lit-
tle Wand, between that and the
Main Land, great Plenty of Fowl,
the fame that breed in Prejlholm.
In one Part of this Wand, the Puits
and Gulls ^ and Sea-Swallows Nefts
lie fo thick, that a Man can fcarce
walk but he mull; needs fet his Foot
upon them. On the Rocks there-
about groweth the Maha arbor ea
Marina mjlras in great Plenty, alfo
Critbmimi chryfanthemum^ Limonium
vulgare, Hyacinthus Jlellaris ‘ver7ius
pufnihiSj Filix marina^ &c. and a
kind of Tithymalus^ q. an Fith. fua-
rinus vulrarisf This Wand hath in
it a fmall Chapel, confecrated to St.
Margaret^ from whom alfo the Wand
is denominated. On the Sand there
are found thofe fmall Conchce vene-
7‘eee jlriatcBy of which the Country
People make themfelves Hat-bands.

The

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 245

The Sea-Swallows they there call
Spurs^ and the Razor-bills are called
Elegugs^ about Tenby and St. Covins,
This Name Rlegtig fome attribute to
ihtPuffifij and fome to the Guillem \
indeed they know not themfelves
what they mean by this Name.
From Tenby we rode to Kidwelly ^
through Latigheniy where we forded
a River.' There are ftanding the Walls
• of a fair Caftle, belonging to Sir PKiT
Ham Rujfell. After, travelling on two
Miles farther, we faw them burnmg
CocUe-Jhellsy thereof to make LHne.
The manner thus. They make an
Hole in the Ground, therein they
put Furze, upon that Wood, upon
the Wood fmall Stone Coal, and then
a Layer of Cockle-fhells, and lb
Shells and Coals, S. S.. S. (h) and

{h) Stratum fuper Stratum ut vldetur.

R 3 theii

246 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

then put Fire to them ; thefe burnt,
make excellent Lime. Here are the
Ruins of an old Caftle belonging to
the Lord Anmjley, In this Country
they dig two Sorts of Coals, the one
they call Stone Coal, not fit for
Smiths, the other Ring Coal, which
is fit for their Ufe. At 'Tenhy they
told us of a Rock, which was lately
anew difcoyered, fix or feven Leagues
into the Sea, remote from thence,
Vvhither of old the Towns-Men of
"Tenhy v/ere wont to repair for Fifli^
ing, which did then much enrich
the Town, where there is excellent
Fiflnng. This Rock, at low Water,
lies, in fome Places, not above 7 or 8
Fathoms under Water, it is fuppofed
. to be larger than Caldey Ifiand ; it
lies in the Center of a Triangle,
whofe Angles are W orrnfnead Pointy
Caldey IJJand^ and hundy.

Near

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 247

Near Tenby Caftle is a little Illand,
which hath a Chapel upon it dedi-
cated to St. Catharine ; it is afeended
by Stone Stairs cut out of the Rock.

There is a Caftle at Kidwelly ; the
Town is in a ruinous Condition. On
the fandy Meadows, near the Town,
I obferved ftx Sorts of RufoeSy among
which that of Harlech., and yuncus
acutus maritimus. Near Abe’ravon,
on tire fandy Meadows by the Sea-
Side, I faw grov/ing, Conyza heleni-
tis foliis laciniatis. , A Bird breeds
there fuppofed to be the Hamantopus
magnitudine inter 'vanellum galli-
naginetn minorem media, of a dark
Grey on the Head and Back, a light
Grey on the Breaft and under the
Belly, the 5 or 6 firft Feathers of the
Wing above of a dark or fufeous
Colour, near Black, underneath more
light or dunnifli, the reft of the Fea-
R 4 thers

24S Mr, RAY’j Itineraries.

thers party-coloured, the Tops White,
the Bottom dark. The Tail and
Feathers near it waved tranfverfely
with Black and White Lines, like
the Feathers of fome Turkeys, as
like wife are the Tips of fome of the
Feathers of the Wing above the Re~
miges. The Feathers upon the Top
of the Back, between the Shoulders
and the Tail, are fome of them
almoft White, which, when the Bird
flies, reprefent a Triangle of White.
The Bill of this Bird is in Figure
like a Snipe’s, but not fo long, pro
ratione,, by a great deal, of a dark
Red at the Bafe, Black toward the
End; the Legs long and Red, the
Ungues Black;, it hath the PoJiicus\
thefe fhe ftretches backward in fly-
ing, which make amends for the
Shortnefs of the Tail; it makes a
piping Noife.

Mr. RAY’5 Itineraries. 249

Friday yum the 13th, We pro-
ceeded on to Landaffe ; by the Way
we faw a ftone lying near Marganty
near Half a Mile off, in the Way
to Newtofiy with this Infcription,
PVMP6IVS CARANTORIVS;
whether or no there had been another
Line of Letters was uncertain. At
Newton we faw the Well called St.
yohns Welly which ebbs and flows
(as the People generally there affirm)
quite contrary to the Sea (i) \ but
we found that it ebbed as the Sea
ebbed, and do believe that it con-
ftantly does fo. The Water Ibaks
through the Sand (as I fuppofe) tyjiich
lies in great Plenty between the Sea
and the Well. A Story pafles con-
cerning Salmons in the River Abera-
vony that come up on Chriftmas-

(i) ‘‘ See in Speed^s Defcription of the Sum-
rner-Jflands parallel Storiips.”

2^0 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

Day., and may be handled, and then
taken out at Pleafure, and this is at-
tefted by all the Country. Credat
qui cupit. The Church of Landaffe
is indifferently fair, but wants the
Crofs-building. You defcend into it
by Steps; in it are divers Monu-
ments of the Matthews, and fome
BiJfjops : on the Bilhop’s Seat is the
Picture of the Virgin Mary, fup-
ported by Virgins, and a Bifhop
praying, Virgo fcandens Jis marJJjal-
lus ccelum pendens.

Saturday yune xho. i/yh.. We rode
to 'Caefwent, an antient Town, call -
ed of old V znta Silurum ; a great
Part of the old Walls are ftill hand-
ing, and the Track of the reh per-
fectly difcoverable. It hath been
four-fquare. Here are digged up ,
Medals and Roman Pavements. Here
we met with an old Gentleman (by
5 Name

Mr. RAY’f Itineraries. 25*

Name More) who hath a fair Houfe
at Creek. He told us of the Sal-
mans in UJke and Wye^ that are in
Seafon all the Year round ; for when
they are out of Seafon in one River,
they are in Seafon in another. Coals
are dug up on both Sides of the two
Rivers juft mentioned, but not be-
tween them. We were told of an
old Man at Hereford., that eats neir^
ther Fifh, Flefti (excepting the Skin
of, a roafted Pig) Butter, Cheele, or
Milk, nor ever did ; his Name Rod,
Near Creek, in a Buftiet or Wood on
gn Hill, not far from the Way-fide,
weftwa.rd, grows Vida maxima fyl-
vatica forte ^ Krythrodanum, be-
sides many other common Plants.
The Bifliop of Landaffe% Palace is
at Matherne. There are many Caf-
tles in Glamor ganfhire and Mon-
mouthfoire. . One at Cowbridge,
\yhich is a pretty walled Town; one

at

252 ilfr. RAYV Itineraries.

at Cardiffe, a large handfomeTawn;
one near Caerwent^ called Calecut
Caftle, belonging to the King; an-
other at Caerlion, We went from
Creek to Chepjlowy and from thence
to Tintern Abbey, where we faw the
Wire-Mills, and rode that Night to
Ghucefter. By the Way, near Tm-
tern, I found Herba Parisy and a
kind of Driopterisy q. an Driopt.
“Tragic At Ghucefter we 'law the
College. In the Cathedral are twelve
little Chapels. The Pillars in the
Body of the Church are great and
bulky, the Steeple Part of the Choir,
into which the Bell-Ropes hang
down. Of the Wings of the Church
are made Chapels. We faw here
many antient Monuments. ' Robert
de Courtoisy in the midft of the Choir
in Wood. Lucius y the firft Chriftian
King, lies as it were on a Shelf.
Edward II. a Saxon King, that

either

Mr. KhY's It INERARIES. 253

either founded or was a great Bene-
fa<3:or to this Church ; alfo a fair
Monument of Sir Humphrey Bohun ;
another of Mr. Abraham Blackkech^
who had been lately a great Benefac-
tor to this Cathedral ; likewife a
Monument of Major-General Craw-
ford^ a ScotchmUf flain at the Walls
of Hereford., fighting for the Parlia-
ment, and divers others. We exadUy
meaflired and furveyed the Whifper-
ing-Place, and took Notice of the
Cloifler, which is, very lai^ and
handfome. We rode out to Lajfmg-
iofiy where we found many of the
Star-Sto?ies. From Gloucefter we
went to Sodbury, and from thence to
Alderly, where we found great Plenty
of the Cockle and Scallop-Stones, but
no Co?-nua Ammonis. At Alderly
Judge Hales has an Houfe.

"TIjurfday

- 254 RAYV IxlNERARiESi

l%urfday ^une the 19th, We got
to Briftol, where we faw the Cathe-
dral. In it are a few antient Monu-
ments, one of Sir John Newton^ who
took the King of Morocco Prifoner;
Here are alfo the Tombs of feveral
religious Kitights, and of (ome. BiJhopSy
one, of the lirft Biihiop of this Church, ,
who hath his Mitre under his Head
like a Pillow, and his Ribs appear,
that is, the Bifhop’s Effigies is cut in
Stone like a Skeleton, or a Body ex-^
tremely emaciated. There is alfo. the
Tomb 'of one Vaughan., a Knight.
We took Notice of the Bowling-
Green,- and the Plain about it by the
River Side. We alfo law Ratcliff
Church, built by one Cannmgs. It
is in the Form of a Cathedral, arch-
ed with Stone, well gilded on the
Roof. In the Church-Yard is a fair
Stone Crofs, whereat are preached
four Sermons every Year, to wit, on

Good-

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 255

Good-Friday, Eafter Sunday., Mon-
day, and Tduefday. On St. Vincent\
Rock we found feveral Plants more
than we had formerly taken Notice
of, viz. Androfcemum Campoclarenfs
Col. Ferrum equinum Germmt. Jili-
quis m fummitate C. B. Acinos An-
glicwn Cluf. Sedum medium, Filicis
alia nova Species, &c. There is a
Walk in Briftol called the “Tolfey,
where are feveral Brafs Polls or Pil-
lars given by feveral Benefadlors, ferv-
ing only for Ornament and to lean
upon.

Friday yune the 20th, We left
Briftol, and travelled to Bath. ' By
the Way we faw at Cainfoam, a fine
new built Houfe of Sir Thomas
Bridges ; alfo the Serpent-Stones and
Star-Stones found here. At Kelwef-
tm we faw a fair Houfe of Lady
Harringtons, and about a Mile olF,

at

2^6 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

at Coftofiy another of her Son’s. At
Bath we took Notice of no new
Thing, fave Bifhop yames Montague.
of Winchefter his Monument in the
Abbey-Church. We lodged this
Night at Fault on., ■ a Village 7 Miles
from Bath, in the Way to Wells.
In the Corn-Fields about Camerton,
we found a kind of Tithymalus or
Bfula, which we had not before
leen; we alfo here found a kind of
"Tithymalus, relembling, at firft Sight,
the common Sun Spurge, but it
grows up to a great Height, the
Leaves of a pale Green or Yellow
like Heliofcop. of the Figure, well
near, of Wood Spurge; the Stalk
Ibmetimes reddiih. We obferved at
St. David' Gloucefter, Ratcliffe
Church (and other Churches) behind
the Choir, a large Chapel dedicated
to the Virgin Mary, which they call
the Lady s- Chapel.

Saturday

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 257

Saturday yune the 21ft, We rode
to Wokey-hole., and from thence to
Wells, where we viewed the Church,
which is a very neat one. It hath a
double crofs Building; behind the
Choir is a large Chapel dedicated to
the Virgin Mary, wherein they have
their Service at Six in the Morning.
The Front of this Church is very
curioufly adorned with Statues, and
other carved Work in Stone; it has
a pretty Chapter-Houfe, and a large
Cloifter, only it , wants the fourth
Side. Here are two Rows of Houfes,

^ on each Side of a long Court (called
Vicars-Clofe) for the Singing-Men,
whom they there call Vicars. In the
Church are the Monuments of feveral
Bijhops, particularly of Billiop Lake
and Billiop Still, alfo of fome Priefts
and fome Abbots, which were trans-
ferred thither from Glaftonbury. A
large Grave-Stone of Ina a Saxon

S King,

258 Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries.

King, the. firft Founder of the
Church; likewife the Monument of
one Harevoell., a King’s Baftard.
■There are divers good Pieces of
carved Work in this Church. In
the Body of it, towards die Weft
End, between two Pillars in the Wall,,
is carved the Head of a King, with
Priefts on each Side tumbling Head-
long ; alfo a Bifhop with a Woman
on one Side and a Child on the other ;
of which they tell this Story : The
Abbot, who finifhed the Body of
the Church after King Ind^ Death,
when the Workmen were building
the Church, gave them a Plate out
of his' Pocket, which had thefe Pic-
tures on it, and bade them cut them
in Stone, and fet them in the Church
Wall. When the Abbot came and
faw them finifhed, he wept, and be-
ing afked the R.eafon ; he anfwered,
When there fhould reim a King like

to

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 259

to that Head, and a Bifhop fit, like
the other, then Friers and Priefts
fhould be thrown down, and Bifhops
marry. Now the King’s Face,' they
report to be exaftly like to King
Henry VIII. and the Bifhop like the
firft married Bifhop of that Diocele.'
Dean Crichton hath a fair Houfe here,
built by Doctor Burgefs. From
Wells we rode to Glajionbury., where
once again I vifited the Torr, which
is nothing but the Steeple of an an-
tient Church, now quite fallen down
and gone, as appears by the Eaft
Side of the Steeple, where the Church
had been broken from it, and by the
Teftimony of ancient People there-
about, who have feen the VeJUgia
and Ruder a, of the Walls. On the
Top of the Tor r -hill., and all along
the Afcent, I obferved great Plenty
of a kind of Orobflnche, the Stalk
whereof is of a reddifh Purple Co-
S 2 lour,

26o Mr. RAY’f Itineraries.

lour, the Flower one undivided Tii-
bus^ like the Flower of the common
Orobanche^ of a faint purplifh Colour,
with Stride or long Lines all along
the Length of the Flower, of a
deeper Purple. It hath fome Stami-
na, and a Stylus, which ends in two,
and fometimes in three, GlobuU. The
Root is like that of the ordinary
Orobanche, in the leffer it more imi-
tates a Bulbe, and bath a few Fi-'
bres or ftringy Roots at the Bafes or
Sedes of it j the Root of the greater
is oblong. Upon the Marfh, in the
moift Places, I obferved, creeping
upon the Ground, a fmall umbelli-
ferous Plant, the Leaf fomewhat like
to one fort of Oenanthe : The Flowers
very fmall, and conhfting of five lit-
tle white pointed Leaves ; the Um-
helly for the moft Part, had but two
Spakes of Flowers, in fome three,
but this perhaps may be imputed to

the

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 261

the Poverty of the Plant ; the Seeds
ftriate a little comprefled, and but
fhort; the Stalk hollow, the Root
flringy. This is the Water Parfnip ;
though it may perhaps be referred to
the Oenanthe. On the Top of the
Hill, by the Torr, we found a kind
of Vkiat with a long White Flower.
Likewife, in the Meadows hereabout,
we found in great Plenty, a kind of
■’Jacea.^ in the Leaf exadly like to
the nigra vulgaris^ in the Flower to
the "Jacea major fegetum. We faw
yofeph of Arimatheas, Tomb and
Chapel at the End of the Church,

, alfo the Abbot’s Kitchen, which is
yet Handing, all built of Free-Stone,
without any Timber in it, at the
Bottom four Square, and in each
Corner a Chimney, and the Top is
cupola’d up with one round Arch,
like a Chapter-Houfe, and on the
Top a Stone Lanthorn, to convey
S3 away

262 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

away fuperfluous Smoke. Mr. Stroud\
Barn, built all of Free-Stone, with
Buttreffes like a Chapel, deferves to
be remembered. The Stump of the
old Chrifimas 'Thorn is now quite
dead and gone, but they have feveral
inoculated Plants of it about the
Town. Mr.' Pejlery a Merchant of
Brijioly now owns the Ruins of the
Abbey of Glajionhury (k),

Monday yime the 23 d, We v/ent
from Glaftonbury to Taunton., 2 1
Miles, and lodged at Wellington.
Between Street and W alt on (two Vil-
lages- in the Way to Taunton) we
found (in a Clofe where they digged
-Stone) a kind of Trefoil, v/hich I

(k) And at the Time of publifliing thefe Pa-
pers, the Owner* of the forr is Jofeph Brown^
Efqi of Shipton Mallet » [A Gentleman who
has a very curious and valuable Colle(5lion of
Bi^ures^ Drawings^ Prints^ and Medals^.

^oiijedure

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 263

conjedlure to be 'Trifolium ftellatum.,
C. B. it hath an oblong Head of
Seeds after the Flower is gone (which
is of a pale Biufli and Fading) not
unlike, for tlie Figure, to the Head
of Virga paftoris\ every particular
Seed-Veflel ends in five Radf or
Points. Beyond fValton., in the W ay
to Tauntofiy in a Clofe by a ftony
Lane, in the Hedge, Lithofperm. 7ni-
■nus. In Somerfatjloire they have a
Way of fetting their Mows of Corn
on a Frame (which they call a Mow-
ftead) Handing upon four Stones" cut
-with a Shank, and upon that an
Head like a Meta., refembling fome
Toad-Stools. Beyond Ting, and
near TaunWi, we palled by the Lord
Hawley his Houfe'. Thereabouts,
at a Place called Orchard, lives Sir
TVilliam Bortmaji, one of the greatefi:
Heirs in England.. Col. Sir Francis

S 4 ton,

264 Mr, RAY’j Itineraries.

ton., where there are the Ruins of a
once fair Houfe of his, which had
been ffarrifoned in the Time of the

O

late Wars, and then demolifhed. Sir
William Windham hath a large Eftate
hereabout ; but lives near Watchet,

Tuefday “June the 24th, We went
from Wellington to St. Moulton, thro’
‘Tiverton, a large Borough Town,
Near Moult oH we faw a fair Houfe
of Mr. A}nery\.

'Wednefday "June the 25 th, We
' came to Buck land. We viewed Barn-
Jlabh, a very handfome and large
Town ; but low built, yet the Houfes
are all neat, and in good Repair;
the Streets v/ell paved, fo that one
may walk in thern in Slippers in the
midfl of Winter. It is governed by
a Mayor and 24 Aldermen, fends
two Burgeffes to Parliament, hath a

'good

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 265

good Trade, is rich and populous;
here is a pretty Alms-Houfe, and a
long Bridge of 15 Arches. We
palled alfo Biddiford^ which feems
to be a thriving Town, and to abound
with Shipping ; here is allb a long
Bridge of 24 Arches. Between
Wejlly and Biddifordy all along the
Hedges on both Sides the Way,
grows Erythrodanum in great Plenty,
and no doubt alfo in the rocky
Ground all thereabout. Between
Biddiford and Kilkhamptony in the
Valleys, and near the Rivulets and
- Water-Courfes among the Moors,
we met with Campanula Cymbalarice.
J'oliisy and Afphodelus Lancajlrenjis.
The River Ex rifes not above 5 Miles
diftant from the North or Severn
Sea, and runs into the South or Bri- -
tifi Sea, giving Denomination to
many Places, viz, Exfordy Exmorey
Extony Exbridgey Exeter y and Ex-
mouth.

z66 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

mouth. At Kilkhampton-y' on the
Rocks, is a fmall Sort of Alga.,
broad and varioufly divided, and,' as
it were, curled at the Top; befides
Cor allin a alba rubra. Nothing
more frequent hereabout, in boggy
and fpringy Places, than Afphodelus
Lancajlrenjis Lyfimachia galeri-
culata minor : It hath a Flefh- coloured
Flower, and the Lip thereof is fpotted
with fmall Red Spots. ' Here alfo is
a fmall Sort of P inguicula which
feems to differ fpecifically from the
common. It hath leffer Leaves,
crumpled up about the Edges, almoft
pellucid, having Red Veins frequent-
ly, arid manifeftly vilible. The
Flower is much fmaller than that of
the common Pmguicula, and paler,
more of the Flefh-Cblour (confer an-
tur J. The Cotyledon paluftris F lower
alfo grows here ; the Stalks on which
the Flowers grow are fmall and low,

bearing

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 267

bearing g.t the Top five or fix very
fmall Flefli-coloured Flowers, confift-
ing of five fharp-pointed Leaves ;
(exam.) vafcula feminalia.f funt ea
comprejfa., didytna., velut ’Thlafpeos
cujufdam. In Devonjhire, as well as
Cornwall., they mend or manure their
Lands with Sea-Sa7td. In the Eaft
Part of Devon they make the Walls
of their Houles very thick, and of a
Red Clay, In many of the Towns
the Chimneys of the Houfes ftand on
the Forefide towards the Street, elpe-
cially of the older Houfes.

Dhurfday June the 26 th, , We fet
out for Dauncefton., 20 Miles. There
we fav/ the Caftle, which is well de- ■
lineated by Speed. This Day we
found, near W wdford-Bridge, Cam- ■
panula Cymbalarice foliis : Near

Dauncefton, in a Ibady Lane, are
two Species of Mufcus q, Ofmund

268 Mr. RAY’ 's Itineraries.

royal grows in great Plenty by the
Way Sides; and near Hculfworthyy
, (a mean Market-Town in Devon-
Jbire) in the Way to Launcefton^ we
faw in the Hedges great Numbers of
a kind of wild Cherry-Trees, with
a long lharp-pointed Leaf.

Friday yum the 27th, We paffed
on towards Pad/tow, but rode firft
to Fintagel., where we found Cornijh
Diamonds on the Rocks; but the
faireft and largeft are met with in the
Quarries, where they dig Stone.
Some there are, of the Bignefs and
Length of one’s Finger, very- clear
and pellucid; all of them have fix
Sides, befides the Ends. At Denby-
bouly about two Miles from Ttntagely
is the beft Quarry of Slate in the
Country ; it lies Eaft and Weft, and ,
deepens Weft ward. They flit it with
Chiflels into thin ILamince: When it

is

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries. 269

is firft dug it flits eafily, afterwards
the Sun hardens it fo, that it will not
flit at all. It is divided into feveral
Beds, both longways and broadways,
by Cracks or Rifts, which they call
Junks: The outflde of the Slate,
where the Junks go, is commonly of
a Red Colour. At St. Elyns we
palTed one Mr. Matthews Houle,
riding on to Padftow., where is as
pretty a Key as any I have feen. Mr.
Prideaux has a Seat here. This
Town is noted for ftrong Beer. Great
Plenty of Slate is dug up about this
Place, which they fend into' South
W ales and it is a good Trade : They
bring from thence Pit-Coal. Near
Padftffw we faw great Flocks of Cor-
ntjh Choughs. The Qannets they told
us were almofl: of the Bignefs of a
Goofe, White, the Tips only of their
Wings Black; they have a ftrange
Way of catching them, by tying a

7 . Pilchard

270 Mr. RAW Iti NERARIES.

Pilchard to a Board, and faftening it
fo, that the Bird may fee it, who
comes down with fo great Swiftnefs
for his Prey, that he breaks his Neck
againft the Board.

Saturday yune the 28 th, We tra-
velled on to Truro, 16 Miles. By
the Way we paffed St. Colwnb (1),

(1) Mr. Ray^ in the Year 1667, took another
Tour 'to the Land's-End^ and from thence went
to St. Columb. “ By the Way (faith he) at a
Place called Baldieu^ we faw a Tin-mine.
The Load or Vein, for the mofi: Part, runs '
Eaft and Weft, and deepens North. The
Load is not a Vein, but a Floor or Bed, The
Load, 'both above and beneath, is covered
with a Cruft or ftony Subftance, which hath
‘‘ no ‘Tin in it, which they call Country.^ the
upper moft they call the North Country^ the
“ nethermoft South Country, In the Mine
“ fometimes they find Spar, which is nothing
“ but a Fluor \ fome white and hexangular in
“ Diamonds. St. Columbia one of the beft Par-
“ fonages in Cornwall^ the yearly Value between
“ 300 and 400 Pounds.”

7

an

Mr. RAY’i Itineraries. 271

an old Town. The Churches in
Cornwall., for the moll; Part, have
good Tower-Steeples ol Free-Stone ;
the Churches are made up of three
Rows or Ridges of Building, of an
equal Height, and fometimes Length
too, and covered with Slate. Near
St. Columby by the Way Side, are
found in feveral Places, Euphrafia
pratenjis lutea, C. B. Between St.
Columb and St. Michael (and in feveral
other Places) a Plant, which we guels
to be Aljtne paluftris minor ferpilli
folia. It hath long, weak, trailing
Branches ; the Stalk is round and
Red, the Leaves of a pale Green,
growing by Pairs, the Flowers grow
verticillatim about the Stalk, at every
Joint; each particular Flower is
compounded of Five, as it were tu-
buliy in Figure like the Seed-Veflei
of Earh-Spur \ it grows in watery
Places near Springs. Nothing more

common

272 Mr^ R AY' 's Itineraries.

common than Ofmunda regalis about
Springs and Rivulets in this Coun-
try. Camomile grows in fuch Plenty
along the Way Sides, that one may
fcent it as one rides. Tdruro is a pretty
Town, the fecond in Cornwall^ and
is governed by a Mayor- and four
Aldermen, with their four Affiftants j
the Lord Roberts hath an Houfe
there, but it is a fmall one; the
Church is handfome and large, and
hath two Monuments in it, one of
them of three Children of ihe-Michells^
the other of the prefent Lord Roberts
liis Grandfather. Here is an indilFer-
ent good Key. About the Key grows
plentifully a kind of Thlafpi.^ which
we are wont to call Thlafpi minus
foL Najiurtij hortens q. They dredge
UD from the Bottom of the Sea abun-

JL

dance of a Sort of White Coraly
among the Sand wherewith they ma-
nure their Land, and an infinite

Number

Afr. RAY’j Itineraries. 273

Number of fmall ‘Turbines or Buc-
chice. I fuppofe the Bottom of the
Sea is thereabout, where they take
up this Sand, all over covered with
this Coral. They find alfo on this
Goaft the Shells of the Echini marinii

Monday yune the 30th, We rode
over the Sands to St. Ives-. There
we faw a Church almoft quite cover-
ed with Sand, blown up by the
Wind ; the Name is Uny Lalant.
Here is a pretty little Fortification
which they call the Caftle* We faw
alfo here fome of the young Murres^
a Bird Black on the Head and Back,
White under the Breaft.and Belly,
and, hath a Black and fharp Bill,
Black Feet, whole-footed. We were
allured that the Cornifl) Murre is no-
thing elfc but the Razor-Bill. All
along the Cliffs, as we rode upon
the Sand toward St. Ives, grew Fceni-
'T culum

2 74 Mr. RAY’jIt INERARIES.

culum vulgare in great Plenty. Si.
Ives is a Borough-Town, governed
by a Mayor and Aldermen. There are
a great many Houfes to the North
of the Town, which (as well as the
Church) are almoft buried or over-
whelmed with Sand, blown up there
by the Wind in flormy Weather.
On a Rock, a little above the Town,
to the North, Hands a little Chapel
dedicated to St. Iva^ as they fay.
The People of Britanny drive a great
Trade here for Raioe., which they dry
• in the . Sun, and then carry away.
In exchange for this, they bring Salt.
The Inhabitants of this Town are of
Opinion, that their Fifh are better
and more daintily tailed than thofe
taken about Penfance^ or any where
on the other Side of the Country,
becaufe tlieirs lie and feed upon the
Sand, and the others on Ouze or
Mud. The Fifli taken about St.

Ives

Mr, RAY’j Itineraries. 275

Ives are Salmon-peal., Ling, CodJiJlj,
Mullet, Bafs, Hake, (fed rarius).
Bream and IHhitmg, Plaife, Soles,
Turbot in Plenty^ as alfb Gurnards,
Red and Grey, Mackrell, but not
many, Herrings, Pilchards, and for'
this Fifh it is the beft Place in Cor?i-
nvall ; of thefe have been taken 1500
Barrels in a Day, fome fay 1800.
Here are alfo taken Lobfiers, Crabs,
Pollacks, Dogfijh, Dranicks, (as they
call them) Tomlins, which are no-
thing but a young Codfjh, Shads or
S chads. Dories, Sand Eels, which
they call Launces, &c. We paffed
over to Godreve If and, which is no-
thing but a Rock, about one League
diftant from St. Ives, to the North-
Eaft, near the Land, upon which, in
Time of Year, build great Store of
Birds, viz. Gulls, Cormorants, Razor-
Bills, Guillems, and Puffins. The
-Razor-Bills are not lb numerous on
T 2 this

276 Mr. RAY’j IriNERAitiE?,

this liland as the Guillems., or Kid-
da'iVSi of which many Scores of
young ones lie dead liere. Here they
call tlie P tiffins. Popes ; and the Guil-
lems, Kid-daws. We faw many of
thofe Birds which they call GannetSy
flying about on the Water. This
Bird hath long Wings, and a long
Neck, and flieth ftrongly. Pofllbly
it may be the CatarraEies. He preys
upon Pilchards ; the Shoals whereof,
great Multitudes of thefe Fowl con-
fbantly purfue. Another Bird they
told us of here, called Wagell,
which purfues and ftrikes at the fmall
Gidl fo long, till out of Fear it
mutes, and what it voids, the IF a-gell
follows, and greedily devours, catch--
ing it fometimes before it is fallen
down to the Water. This- feveral'
Seamen affirmed themfelves to have
oftentimes feen.

Mr. RAW It IXF.RARTES. 277

T’uefclay July the i ft, We rode to
the Land' s-Efid. Near St. Ives, ia
tlie Way to Penfance, we louiid a
kind of Plant, on a moift Bank,
whofe Leaf is fomewhat like to Saxi-
fraga aurea ; it runs out in long
Wires like to Campanida cymbalarica
fol. at each Leaf it bears one final 1
purplifh coloured Flower. We found
another Plant .on a boggy Ground,
which had finall grafly Leaves, but
very few; it was almoft all Stalk ; it
grew not above an Hand high, had
a yellow Flower, but not open in
any when we where there, it being a
clofe Day ; the Seed-Veflel was fome-
what large, pro ratione, round, big-
geft in the Middle, fmaller at both
Ends, like fome Rolls wherewith
they roll Corn. At the Land' s-E?td
we faw nothing remarkable. Here
they give Names to fonie of the
Rocks ; for Inftance, one they call
T 3' ' the

2jS Mr. RAY’j It INERARIES,

the Long-Ship (m)., another the
armed Knight., which they told us
fell down about the Time the King

was

( m ) When Mr. Ray was the fecond Time at
the Land' s- End^ he made the following Obferva-
tions.- — Augujl xht 1667. On the Rock

“ called xht Long- Ship they often, incalmWea-
‘‘ ther, find the Phocae^ which they call Soiles^
fieeping, which fometimes they kill, by ftriking
“ crofs the Snout with a Pole, and at others
they fhoot them. ^ Some of them (they fay)
“ grow to the Size of a Bullock of two Years
old, and they are of divers Colours. We
“ could not certainly learn whether they have 4
‘‘•or only 2 Legs, and them before ; one, that
“ faid he had often killed them, affirmed them
‘‘ to have only 2 Legs, and them before. We
“ had alfo the Story how they defended them-
felves, by cafiing Stones backward upon
“ thofe who came near them. Being ffiot dead,
“ the Male (they fay) falls or finks prefently to
the Bottom, the Female floats or fwims. They
“ difiinguiffi here between Sieles and Soiles. The
Side they affirm to be a much leffer Fiffi, and
not to be‘ taken on our Coafts. They diftin-
“ guifh alfo between Dolphms and PorpuJfes\
y? and by their Difcourfe, 1 gather, that a DoL

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 279
was beheaded ; and a third they call

“ phin is a much leflcr and fcaly Fidi, and con-
“ fequently what they call a Bolphin^ is not the
Delphinus Antiquorum, Porpujfes are here like-
wife taken in calm Weather. We vifited
‘‘ Dickan Gwyn (who lives in St. JujP s Parifli)
“ and had from him fome Cornijh Words. He
is efteemed the mod Ikillful Man of any now
living in the Cornijh Language. But being
no good Grammarian, we found him very de-
“ ficient. Another there is, Pendarvis by Name,
who is faid to be a Scholar, who doubtlefs
“ muft needs have better Skill in the Tongue.,
“ Four Towns there are in Cornwall where they
coin "Tin., or mark it with the King’s Mark,
viz, LeJiwithieU Helfton., "Truro., and Penfance
’ “ 'Before it is thus coined, it cannot be tranf-
“ ported into foreign Parts. Upon every Flun-
“ dred Pound Weight of Tin the King hath
“ four Shillings. In the Parifh of St, JuJt are
“ more Tin Mines wrought, than in any other
“ Parifli in Cornwall, One Hundred of good
“ fat Ore, yields almofl; fo much Black Tin,
“ and an Hundred of Black Tin (when blown)
“ about Forty Pound of White Tin. A Thou-
fand Weight of Tin is fometimes worth Forty-

the

Diamonds

“ five

/

28p Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

Diamonds are found hereabout, and
indeed in all this Country. Mr,

Dickan

‘‘ five Pounds Sterling; but fince the War
“ with the Dutch it is not worth above Thirty-
five or Forty Pounds the Thoufand at moft.
“ The Tinners complain they lofe by it. Be-
fore the King’s Return every Man had Li-
“ berty to fell his Tin as well as he could, to his
bed Advantage ; but fince, there has been a
Price fet on it. There is made and uttered
“ yearly in Cornwall^ four Millions of Tin, more
orlefs. This Information we had from Mr.
Borlafc^ a young Gentleman living in 5/.

“ Parifh, near the Sea.

Auguft the 29th, At Denfance we faw a large
Tunny, which was taken in t\\t Pilchard Nets.
“ They call them Spanijh Mackrel. It was
about ,7 Feet long, and of a great Bignefs j
his Stomach was full of Pilchards. We alfo
faw the Ilalircdhis or bald Buzzard^ of a dark
Colour on the Back, and White under the
Belly, having ftrong Legs and Talons, fo
placed, that fhe can bend two backward and
two forv/ard. The Wings, when explicated
in Proportion to the Body, are of a great
P Length. This Bird was fhot, having a Mul-
let in her Talon. We likewife here faw the

Godwit^

A/r, RAY’^ Itineraries. 281

Dickan Gwyn lives not far oft, in St.
yuJTs Parifli, who is the only Man
we could hear of that can now write
the Cornijh Language, We met witii
none here but what could fpeak Eng-
lip ; few of the Children could fpeak
Cornip ; fo that Language is like,
in a fhort Time, to be quite loft.

St. Buryen^ near the Land' s-End^
is a Deanery, which formerly Dr,
Crichton had, now Dr. Weeks has it.

^ ‘ Godwit., which they call a Stone-Curlew^ the fame,
I fuppofe, which is common upon our Coafts
in Suffolk. The Colour differs fomewhat
‘‘ from a Bird of the fame kind I was fhewn at
Venice., which was more cinereous or dun, and
“ had not that Variety of Colours in the Wings
‘‘ and Tail. — At the Lizard Point, on the
Rocks, I obferved Herniaria glabra in great
Plenty ; alfo Jfparagus vulgaris., and near the
“ Cliffs Hyacinthus mtumnalis minor abundantly.
On Goon Hilly Downs., near the Lizard Point,
is a kind of Heath, which I have not elfewhere
feen in England

There

282 Afr. RAY’j Itineraries.

There is a Tower upon an Hill, not
far from the Land' s-End^ which
ferves for a Sea-mark, At Penfance
we' faw and defcribed feveral Sorts of -
Filh, to wit, Mullus major ^ Lrachu-
ruSf Pagrus^ Erythrinus^ Hake., Had-
dock, Whijlling-Fipo, Rawlin, Pol-
lacks, Halibut, Conger, and LubfiP),
which is no other than a Red Gur- ^
nard. We there faw the Floufes in
which they lay (and the Manner in
which they prefs) their Fifh, elpeci-
ally Pilchards, they pile them up on
a Bed of a great Length and Breadth,
to wit, as long and broad .as the
Houfe, made for that Purpofe, will
permit, and breaft high ; then, in
the Wall behind, they have an Hole
into which they thruft a Rafter or
Poll; of Timber, (which reacheth
crofs the Bed of Fifh) and on the other
End of it hang one or two or more
great Stones, of which they have

many

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 283

many lying there, with a great Hook
of Iron faftened in them for that
Purpofe ; of thele Holes and Rafters
they have many all along the Bed,
which prels down the Boards, where-
with I conceive the Bed of Fifh is
covered, and fo prefsthe Fifli equally:
Underneath the Bed they have a
Gutter to receive and convey the Oil
which comes from the Fi£h, into a
Veflel made on purpofe in the Ground
at one End of the Houle. They
have a pretty Key made with a Pier
of Stones, both here and at St. Ives.
On all the Coafts hereabouts are call
up Plenty of Sea-Laces., belides the
Sea-Girdle and Hangers, Sea-Belt,
&c. On the Beach near PenfaiKe
we faw growing many rare Plants;
to wit, Gnaphalium marinum in
Plenty, a kind of Sea-Peafe, Species
Tithymali, which runs clofe to the
Ground, the Stalks of it Red and

. round,

284 Mr. RAY’j It INERARIES.

round, the Leaf Green above, hav-
ing only one middle Rib or Fibre
vihble, which is Red underneath;
the Figure of it is oblong; but in
, thofe Leaves, among the - Seed, it
milTes one Corner, as if a Snip were
cut olF from it. Near Penrjm., along
the Hedges copiofe^ we found a kind
of Linaria., the fame as I have in
my Garden, by the Name of Lina-
ria Hungarica. The Leaves grow
not in this confufedly upon the Stalk,
as in the common, but in Rundles ;
it grows fometimes to be a Yard high,
the Stalks brittle, much branched
toward the Top. The Flowers grow
not fo thick and cluftering together
as in the common, but at greater
Diftances, and are of a very pale
Blue, almoft White, ftreaked all
along the Claw or Heel with long
Blue Strice ; the lower Leaf hath a

little

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries. 2^5

little Appearance of Yellow, but
more within, if you open it.

JVed7ufday "July the 2d, We went
from Pe7tfa7ice to Pe7tryny through
Marht-Jew and HelJio7t. We faw,
at a Diftance, St. Mkhad\ Mount,
a Rock in the Sea near the Shore, to
which one may pafs on Foot at low
Water, there is on the Top of it an
Houfe, and Chapel with a Tower,
where Mr. St. AubyTt lives ; below
is a pretty little Key to receive fmall
Veffels. PcTiryTt is one of the hand-
fomeft Towns in CorTvwall., htuate
upon an Kill, excellently well water-
ed, having Water running in wooden
Pipes through the Streets, and at In-
terval's Cifterns to receive it ; and it
is lb contrived, that what overflows
the Ciftern, runs into another wooden
Pipe, and fo interchangeably down
the Hillj befldes this, almofl; every

Houle

2 86 Mr: RAY’^ Itineraries'.

Houfe hath Spring-Water, a Garden^
and an Orchard to itfelf. It is a Bo-
rough, and hath a Mayor and twelve:
Aldermen. The Mayor of Penryn
ufcs to write himfelf Mayor of Fal-
mouth.

Tljurfday "July the 3d, We rod6
to a newly eredted Town, which
they have named Fahmuth. The
King hath lately made it a Corpora-
tion. The Country People round
about call it Penny come quick^ and
tell this Story of it. Within left
than Forty Years there was here no
Houfe at all, but a certain Perfon
building a little one, a Servant of
one Mr. Pendarvis came and dwelt
in it; upon which that Gentleman
bid his Servant brew a little Ale, and
on fuch a Day he promifed to 'come
with fome Gentlemen, and help her
to forne Money by drinking it up.

6 The

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 2S7

The Servant obeyed her Mafter’s Or-
ders ; but in the mean Time a Dutch
Vefl'el came into the Harbour, and
the Crew calling at the Houfe, drank
out all the Ale. Mr. Pendarvis
came with his Friends at the Day
appointed, and calling for fome
Drink, his Servant told him fhe had
none. Her Mafter expoftulating
with her, fhe told him what had
palled, and faid truly Mafter, the
Penny came fo quick., I could, not
deny them. Thence had the Town
both its Original and Name. It is
now become a great Place, and be-
longs all to Sir Peter KUligrew, who
is now' building a Church there. It
confifls chiefly of ' Ale-Houles, and
depends upon the Haven ; the Dutch -
ufed much to frequent it. From
Falmouth we pafled three Ferries, and
rode to St. Michael upon Kevill,
W'here we lodged one Night. We faw

there

2 88 Mr. RAW Itineraries.

■ there Mr. Bofcawen\ new Houfe,
the beft we had feen in Corirvoall.
In this Pariili did live the ancient
Family of the Carmino which is
now extin£l.

Friday "July the 4th, We fet out
for Bodmin ; by the Way we faw
Roche-Rock, of a great Height, fland-
ing in the higheft Part of a large
Moori Near the Church of Roche,
on the Top of the Rock, was a
Chapel, dedicated to ^t.Mary, now
ruined. There is nothing very re-
markable in Bodmin, only a very
large and fair Church, with a Spire-
Steeple, of which there are very few
in Cornwall. The Water which fup-^
plies the Conduit (as Carew obferves)
runs through the Church-Yard.
There are a great many Tanners in
.this Town. We did not fee what
Ca?~ew mentions of the Kitchens and

Out-

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 289

Gut-Houfes being up .Stairs, neither
is the Place held to be unhealthfulj
fo far as We could learn.

Saturday yuly the 5 th, We tra-
velled on to Saltajhy and paffed St.
Neot's^ and fo went to the other half
Stone (fo called) which hath an an-
cient Infcription upon it, but is fo
weather-beaten that it is not legible.
Upon the Top of an high Rock^
about two Miles North of St. Clere^
are thofe Stones which they call the
Cheefe-Wring (n)y of which Speed
hath given a Figure. Thefe feem to
be naturally fo piled one upon an-
other, the leaft at the Bottom ; they
lie alkew and not perpendicularly
A little below, and nearer St. Clere^
are the Stones called the Huflers^
which are oblong rude Stones, pitched

( n) See Mr. Bcrlafe'% Antiquities of Cornwall.

U ij

2go Mr. RAYV Itineraries.

in the Ground on one End^ ftanding
in three Circles, the middlemoft the
greateil; ; their Centers feem to be in
one right Line: About half a Mile
from thefe, on the Downs, ftands a
Stone called the kng Stone, more
than two Yards and an Half high,
having a Crofs on both Sides of it.

W e had an Account of
ing-Play much ufed in Cornwall,
There are two kinds of Hurling, the
In-hurling and the Out-hurling. In
the fir ft there are chofen 20 or 25
of a Side, and two Goals are fet up ;
then comes one with a fmall hard
Leather Bali in his Hand, and toftes
it up in the midft between both Par-
ties; he that catches it endeavours
to run with it to the furthermoft
Goal ; if he be flopped by one of
the oppofite Side, he either faith I
"will ftand, and wreftles with him,

I

Mr. RAYV Itineraries. 291

I letting fall the Ball by him, (which
' One of the oppofite Side muft not
take up, but one of his own) or elfe
throws away the Ball to one of his own
Side, (if any of them can catch it).
He that is flopped may chufe whe^
ther he will wreflle, or throw away
i the Ball ; but it is more generous td
wreflle. He that flops mufl anfwerj
and wreflle it out. When any one
I ■' wreflles,- one of' his Side takes up
' the Ball, and runs with it towards
the Goal, till he be flopped, and
then, as before, he either wreflles or
throws away the Ball, fo that there
are commonly many Pairs wreflling
at once. — An Out-hurling is played
by one Parifh againfl another,' or
eaflern Men againfl weflein, or De-
I vonjhire Men againfl Cornip^ ; the
manner they enter upon it is as fol-
lows. Any one that can get Leave
of a Juflice, ^c. goes into a Mar-
L. U 3 ket-

292 Mr, RAYV Itineraries.

ket-Town, with a little wooden Ball
in his Hand, plated over with Silver,
and there proclaims the Hurling,,
and mentions the Time and Place.
They play in the fame manner as in
the other, only they make the
Churches their Goals, that Party
which can caft the Ball into, or upon
a Church, wins. In an Out-hurl-
ing they have not a fet Number on
each Side, but each have as many as
they can procure. An Hurler, to
help him in running, may catch hold
on an Horleman’s Stirrup. No Horfe-
men play. SaltaJI:) is governed by a
Mayor, and Aldermen. On a woody
Bank (by a Comb) to the South of
SaltaJlj, we firfi: found Lamium me-
lijfce folio growing in great Plenty.
■We obferved no Parks in Cornwall',
their Fences are for the moft Part
earthen or Stone Walls ; often, inftead
of a Stile, you have only a Gap in
- • ■ the

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 293

the Wall, and a Grate to pafs over,
after the Manner of College Grates,
only ruder, and of Wood or Stone.

Monday "July the 7th, We went
on to Plymouth.) but by the Way di-
•verted to StanehoufC) a little Town,
not far from the Paffage out of Corn-
wall. Thence we had a view of
Mount Edgcumbe) a brave Houfe,
and well Iituate, belonging to Mr.
EdgcumbC) a Gentleman of great
Eftate. On the Hill which you af-
cend, after you are come over the
Pafiage to go to Plymouth^ grows
^ryngium vulgare in great Plenty,
which I do not rernember to have
feen any where elfe in England.
There grows alfo Erythrodanmn ; as
upon almofl: all the Rocks on - the
Sea-Coaft hereabout. Here we had'
a View of the little Illand in the
Mouth of the River, called Portfea
U 3 Illand,

204 RAY’f Itineraries.

Illand, (as I remember) in which
is a good Fort. There are befides
3 other Caftles near the Entrance
of the Haven or Key of Plymouth^
on the Weft Side of the Town.
Plymouth is a great and rich Town,
inferior in Trade, Riches, and Big-r
nefs, to none in the Weft, ex^r
cept Briftoi\ yet there are no fair
and uniform Streets in it : Here are
two Churches, one half built. This
Town makes a very fair Shew at a
Diitance, as you go to Oujlon^ a
good large Town on the Harbour,
aJMile to the Eaft. From Plymouth
we travelled on through Modberry^ a
little Market-Town, and fo on to
Morley. Near Modberry we pafted
a fair Houfe belonging to Sir Thomas
Hales, ' ■

Tuefday “July the 8 th, We purfued
pur Journey to "Totnefs, through

Dartmouth,,

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 295

Dartmouth^ a large and well built
Town, and hath a commodious
Harbour; at the Mouth of it two
Caftles, one called Kingfward Cafile,
from a little Town on the other Side
of the Water called Kingfward^ the
other St. Patrick's Cafhle; there is
befides another in the Town. This
Town hath the River on one Side,
and on the reft it is compafled with
fteep, high Hills. Many Fifla are
taken in thefe Parts. ' Pilchards we
faw. Totnefs is a large, clean Town,
ftanding on the Side of an Hill ;
there is an old Caftle at the upper
End of it, upon an artificial Mount;
and there are fome Rows of Floufes
at the Market-Place, like thofe at
Chejler., with fair Shambles. The
Town is governed by a Mayor and
fourteen Aldermen, and is a Borough.
We -went to Mr. Champernen s Wood
to look for the Melijfa Moldavica^
U.4 . but

296 Mr. RAY’jr ItinerarifI^,

but inftead of it, found Melijfa Fuchjij
in Plenty, which we fuppofe was
jniftakeri for it. Rubia major grows
alfo there. In Devonjhire are abun-
dance of deep, narrow, fhady Lanes ;
the Country a very uneven one,

TVednefday yuly the 9th, We
paffed on to Exeter. We, viewed
the T own ; it has one fair Street ; the
Houfes well built; the Cathedral is
fmall but neat ; it hath two. Steeples,
one at each End of the crols Build-
ing, in the one ten Bells, in the
other one large one ; the Lady’s
Chapel is converte4 into a Library,
and therein, at the upper End, a
Monunient of Sir Peter Carey and
his Lady ; there are other little Cha-
pels, an4 in dtem feveral ancient Mo-
nument§, tp vvit. Sir Gaven Carew\
and his Lady’s, and Sir Peter Ca-
renp^ (Sir Gaven and his Lady were

poifoned) j

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 297

poifoned) ; Bifliop Stafford's., who
was once Chancellor of England',
Mrs. Elizabeth Barret's, an Herfe
cut in Marble ; Bifhop Cottons ; Sir
John Gilburnes and his Lady’s ; Ei-
fhop Careys', Bifhop Branfcombe s\
Bifhop Oldhams, in the Wall (he
was excomunicated) ; Bifhop Staple-
tons, and one of his Brother, a
Knight ; Sir Ehomas Speake's ; one of
another Sir Peter Carew, who died
at Rofs in Ireland ; Mr. Harbin's ',
Dean Lacy's, his Effigies as naked,
carved in Stone, (he was found dead
in his Study) ; Bifhop Majham's', and
one of Courteney Earl of Devonjhire ;
another of Bohun Earl of Hereford ;
Bifhop Lacy's, who built the Chap-
ter-Houfe ; and in the Wall of one
of the Wings, a Monument of Leo-
fricus, the firft Bifhop of Exeter.
The Cloifter is pulled down, and
fhere are now little Hpufes, which

the

298 Mr. RAY V Itineraries.

Dean and Chapter have given to poor
ancient People to inhabit. The
Chapter-Houfe is different from all
that we have feen, an Oblong, like
a Chapel, handfomely gilded on the
Top. A good Area about the
Church.

'Thurfday July the loth. From
"Exeter we travelled through Honi-
ton to Morley^ 21 Miles. We law
nothing remarkable in this Day’s
Journey.

Friday July the 1 1 th, We went on
through Chard., 6 Miles; to Croke-
horn, 7 Miles; thence to Evil, 8 '
Miles ; and to Sherborne, 4 Miles.
Here the Lord Digby hath an Houle.
The Town is no inconfiderable one,
the Church large, arched, and well
carved on the Top. It was once an
Abbey-Church. Near the Church

is

Mr. RAY’f Itineraries. 299)

a Free-School, founded by King
Edward VI. and v/eii endowed, the
Stipend is Sixty Pounds per .Annum.
The CafUe is how ruined, but never
was very great or ftrong.

Saturday yuly the 1 2 th, We fet -
out from Sherborne to Salijbury^ 34
^iles, and paffed through Shaftjburyy
and by the Earl of Pembroke % Seat
at TVilton (about two Miles from
SarumE where is a Park encompailed,
with a Stone- Wall. Salijbury hath
in it four Parilh Churches, behdes the
Cathedral: It hath Water running
through all the principal Streets,
which are ftrait arid broad ; it hath
a fair and large Market-Place, and is
governed by a Mayor and twenty-
four Aldermen. The Buildings are
but low. The Height of the Cathe-
dral Steeple was lately found to be
135 Yards, whereas before it was

fuppofed

300 Afr. RAY’^ Itineraries.

fuppofed to be 148, , that is, equal to
the Length of the Church; an ofta-
gonal Stone upon the Top of the
Spire 12 Feet round. There are
many Monuments in this Church, to
wit, Bifhop Poorest who firft began
the Building of the Church, and
continued it eleven Years; Bifhop
Bingham the fecond Founder’s,
who carried it on twenty Years ;
Bifhop York\ the laft, who finifhed
it in eleven Years more. A Brafs
Plate in the Wall for Dean Gour-
don^ a Scot ; Bifhop Audley\ Tomb;
Bifhop Salcot's’, Bifhop Bridport\\
Dr. Bonnet' who is reported, in Imi-
tation of our Saviour, to have endea-
voured to have fafted forty Days, but
expired at feventeen Days End. Dr.
Sidenhani^. A fair well-wrought
Free-Stone Monument for Sir 'Thomas
Gorges and his. Lady; this Monu-
ment is adorned with Figures of the
6 - • regular

Mr. RAY’j Itineraries. 301

regular Solids. A Tomb for the
Lord Hungerfordy who was hanged
and degraded, and had a Toad put
into his Coat of Arms ; an Iron
twifted Wire hangs up near his Tomb,
fignifying an Halter. The like for
the Lord Stourtofiy whole Tomb is
allb here on the other Side of the
Chapel of our Lady. A Monument
of that Family with lix Holes on one
Side, and fix on the other, alluding
(as his Coat of Arms) to fix Wells,
three within his Park, and three with-
out. The Lord Cheymy\ Tomb;
Bifltop Beauchamp\ ; Sir William
LongJpear%y Rofamond\ Son by King
Henry II. A ftately rich Monument
of the little Earl of Hertford ; Dr.
Wilton %y with a Rebus on it. Will
and Tdun ; Bifhop Capon % ; a Monu-
ment for Sir Richard Mompeffon and
his Lady, which is a gaudy one.
Bilhop fewelly content with a Grave-^

Stone.

3d 2 Mf\ RAY’j Itineraries,

Stone. The Cloifter is wide, and
a Furlong about. The Chapter-
Houfe is a large one, fupported with
a Pillar in the Middle, and hath
Fifty-two Stalls in it for the Fifty- '
two Prebendaries of this Church.
About a Mile from Salijhury^ in the
Way to Amejhury^ flood old Sarufn ;
there areftill remaining great Trenches
which encompaffed the Caftle. They
report that ancient Roman Coins and
Urns have been dug up here.

Monday "July the 14th, We fet
forward to Amejhury^ from whence
I again' vifited Stone-henge^ about a
Mile and an Plalf Weft of the Town.
It confifts of four Rows of Stones,
the outmoft high Stones ftanding in
a Circle, and having Stones lying
upon them from Stone to Stone j
each upright Stone hath two Tenons,
which fill the Mortices of the in-
cumbent

Mr. RAY’^ Itineraries. 303

cumbent Stones, and fo they all to-
gether formed a Cirele. The Stones
within thele are of a hnaller Size,
and the inner ones are fet in an Hex-
agonal Form, and are very large,
two ftanding upright and pretty near
together, having Tenons, and one
Stone laid upon them with two Mor-
tices; together they reprefent the
Greek Letter n. Six there are of .
thefe, ftanding like the Later a of an
Hexagon, with a good void Space
between lor the Angles. We counted
thefe Stones, and found the Number
of all (fmall and great Pieces and all)
94. At Amejbury., in the Wall of
the Abbey, we faw an old Grave-
Stone, fuppofed of Queen Guenever^
King Arthurs Wife ; thefe Remains
are juft behind the Marquis of Hert-
ford'% Houfe, in a little Park. We
here faw the Loches, which they take
and drink down quick in a Glafs of

Wine.

364 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.;

Wine. We alfo faw divers Sorts of
Tobacco Pipes, for which this Town
is famous. From hence we purfued
our Journey to Stockbridge^ wherd
we lodged.

T’uefday yuly the 15th, We rode’
to Winchejler., an old City. In it
were fourteen Churches, fbme of
them are now fallen down, and the
CafUe is in a ruinous Condition.
Here is one indifferent fair Street.
The Town is governed by a Mayor
and Aldermen. The Shire-Hall.,
within the Caftle, built like an old
Chapel, with a Body fupported by
Stone Pillars, and in it are two Ifles.
Over the Court of Niji prius, above
the Judge’s Seat is fixed, againft the
Wall, King Arthurs Round-Table,
with the Names of the Knights upon
it. The Cathedral is a large Build-
ing, very plain without, a fquare low

Tower

Mr. RAY’j It INERARIES. 305

r '* •

Tower rifing out of tlie Middle of
the Choir. The Pillar?in the Church
are flrong and large, the Top of the
Body and of the fide Ifles an Arch of
Stone. A great Alcent out of the
Body of the Church into the Choir,
and two Afcents more to the Altar.
The crofs Ifles are about the Middle
of the Choir. In this Church are
many Monuments, to wit, WiliiaM
Rufus.) his Tomb- Stone, in themidfl;
of the Choir ; his Bones are in a
Cheft of Wood, which ftands on
the Top of Septum^ which, parts
the Choir and the fide Ifles. Five
Chefts more are fet up in the fame
Manner, one (as it is faid) of a Queen
' InU) having no Inlcription, the other
Four have, Infcriptions, in ancient
Charaders.

I.

Rex obijt .Anno Domini 83^^ .'•i
Hie Rex Egbertus paiifat cum Rege Kenulpho,

Nobis egregia mimera uterqiie tuJif,

II,

306 Mr. RAW iTtNERAIliES.

II.

• ' •

Adulphus Rex obijt 859.

Rlngiljfhi hi cijia hac fimiil offa jacent <b Adulphi,'

Jpfus fundator, hie benefadivr erat.

III.

Edredus Rex ohiji 955.

Hoc plus hi tumulo Itex Edredus requiefeity
has Britonmn terras rexerat egregie,

IV.

Edmund Rex obijt A. R).

^lem theca hcec Edmundum fufeipe, Chrifley

vivente patre regia feptra tulit.

In this Church are the following
Monuments. A Tomb-Stone on
which is this infeription, Intus eji
cor Nicolai, clhn Wintonien. Rpip^
Cujus corpus eJi apud Waverly. This
Place is gueffed to be now a Corn-
Field, about a Mile from Winton.
A Monument with this Infcription,
Intus eji corpus Richard! Willhelmi
CQnqueJloris fdij Beornics ducts.
Bifhop Fox\ Monument, with his
Effigies as a Skeleton on it : He alter-'

ed

4

Mr; RAW Itineraries. 307

ed the Roof of the Choir, and was
a great Bencfador to the Church ;
he lies buried under his Chapel (which
they call his Study) a little Room be-
hind the Altar. Over the Altar this
Infer ip tion, 0 facrum Convlvium, in
quo Chrijius fumitur ! The Roof
of the Choir, over the Altar, is beau-
tified with the Hiftory of the Pafllon
reprefented in carved Work. In the
Space behind the Choir are two
ftately Monuments, one for Bifliop
Beauforti who founded the Hofpital
of St. Crofs ; another for Billiop
TVainJlete. Bifhop Langton^ Cha-
pel of curioufly carved Wood- work,-
and therein his Tomb. King Lucius
his Tomb-Stone (as is fuppofed here)j
Lord Wejlons. Tomb,, his Statue in
Brafs on it ; Dean Mafons., who was
alfo a Knight. At the Eafl: End of
this Church is our Lady’s Chapel (as
it is there called), in which they have
X 3 their

308 Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

their Morning Six o’clock Prayers,
King Philip and Queen Mary were
married here ; where Queen Mary\
Chair is Hill preferved. This Cha-
pel was built by two Priors, Silkjleed
and Hiinton ; tliere are half Rebus’s
for their Names carved on the Roof.
Upon the Wall behind the Altar
flood feveral Statues of Saxon Kings
and Bifiiops, who had been buried
in that Part of the Church, with
thefe Infcriptions under them. Kene-
delfus Rex^ S. Bitinus F.pc. Egbertus
Rex-y Adulphiis Rex^ Eluredus Rex^
Jilms ejusy Edwardus Rex feit. Kine-
waldus .Rexy Ethelflanus Rex^ filius
ejiiSy SCA Maria, Dommns Jefus,
Edrediis ReXy Edgarus Rexy Emma
Regina^ Alwidus Epc. Ethelredus
Rex,''SCS Edwardus Rex, Jilius ejus,.
Cautus Rex, Hardeenutus Rex, jilius
ejus. Under tlie forementioned Saxon
Kings this Diftich.

Corpora

Mr. RAY’; Itineraries. 309

Copra Sanriorum funt hie in pace fepulta.

Ex meritis quorum fulgent Miracula multa.

King Hardeknute i Tomb, whereon
is this Diflich ;

^ijacet hie regni Sceptra tulit Hardecanutus,
Emm<e ac Cnutonis natus. ^ ipfe fuit.

On another Tomb-Stone thefe Verfes j

Horpus Ethelmari ciijus nunc Eor tenet ifiud
Saxunij Parifiis morte datur tumuh.

His Heart was faid to be found in an
Ewer. A Monument of Stephen
Gardiners, his Effigies like a Skele-r
ton,

Biffiop Wickham (who founded the
College here, and New-College in
Oxford.) both dedicated to St. Mary )
is buried in a little Chapel in the
Body of the Church. There were
Yerles about his Tomb, which' ar^
X 3 now

-:io Mr. RAY’j Itineraries.

0

now almoft quite defaced , fojy there
remains only as follows ;

Jugitcr oretis tumulum qutcunque videtu
Pro tantis meriiis^ &c. — — —

Biiliop Edington's Monument. On
either Side of the Entrance into the
Choir, are the Statues in Brafs' of
King yames I. and King Charles I.
On a Tomb-Stone in the Choir is
this infeription ;

Pr re full 3 egregij. paufant hie membra Richardi
Fociuns, CUV [iimmi gaudia funtofoli.

Here is alfo the Monument of Wil-
liam de Bajing Prior of this Church.

The Cloifter is intirely pulled down.

1 he following Verfes are over a Door

(o) This Tomb mufl have been repaired
fince Mr, Raf% Time, as the learned Dr. Lowth^
in his very ingenious Life of William of Wick‘>
haWi has given this Epitaph complete.

by

Mr. RAYV Itin'eraries. 311-

by the Church Side, near another
Door into the Church.

communi proprium jam perlite qua fas.

ACR
S A

IT

Ch,

oro

y

F

The College is a pretty Stone Build-
ing, it hath a fmaU wdi-adorned
Chapel, with a Steeple, a Cloifter, and
^ Library.

Wednefday "July the 1 6th, We
proceeded on through Alresfordy
near which Place we faw a large
{landing Pool of Water, frequented
by divers Sorts of Fowl, as Coots,
Ducks, ^c. It belongs to Sir Tdho~
mas Xdhbqrne. We lay at Alt07i.

"Thurfday yuly the 1 7th, We rode
through Farnhafn, where we faw
the Bifhop of Winchejiers, flately
X 4 Palace,

312 Afr. RAYV Itineraries.

Palace, called Far7iham Caftle : We
ended this Day’s Journey at TVmdfor^
a Borough I'own, indiiderently fair
and large.

Ft'iday ytdy the i8th, We fawthe
Caftle, a large and ftately Strucfture,
ftt to be a King’s Palace; there are
feveral Courts in it. In the firft the
Poor Knights^ 24 in Number, have
their Lodgings. At the Weft End
ot the Caftle is a Tower, wherein
are 8 Bells. St. George s Chapel is a
ftiir Building, having a Body and two
ftde Ilies ; it wants of the Height of
Kmg's College Chapel in Ca7nhridge^
but the' Body alone is near as wide,
arched on the Roof with Stone, as
alfo are the ftde Ifles, and the two
Wings or crofs Building ; the Arch is
very flat, and curioufly adorned with
carved Work, in both which relpedts
it is not inferior to King s College

Mr. RAY’f Itineraries. 313

Chapel, and in the latter beyond it.
In the Middle of the Roof of this
Chapel is the Arms ot King Edward
III. furrounded with the Arms of
the Knights., who v/ere firfl: created
of the Order.' The Seats in the
Choir are canopied over with good
carved Work of Wood. The Dean’s
Seat is covered with a Canopy ' of
Velvet, and Velvet Curtainsl Here
the King fits when he comes to St.
George '% Chapel. Every other Seat
is referved for the Knights Compa-
nions of the Order. In the Backs of
fome of thefe Seats are feveral Brafs
Plates with Infcriptions on them,
and fome only have the Coats of fuch
as have been of the Order, with the
•Time of their Inftallation. Over
their Seats are the Banners of the
prelent Knights of the Order. ' In
the • Body of the Choir were buried
King Henry VIII. and King Charles I.

In

314 Afr. RAY’j Itineraries,

In this Chapel are the following
Tombs, to wit, one of the Earl of
Rutland^ and his Cpuntefs; another
of Sir T'homas St, Lieger^ and his.
Lady, Daughter of King 'Edward
IV. and Dutchefs of Exeter.^ A;
Tomb of the firft Earl of Worcefter,
and his Lady ; fhe lies on his Right
Hand, becaufe Daughter to a King
and Queen, he being only Son of a
King. The Tomb of Henry Wood^
Dodtor of Law, that of y, Denty
Elq; of T'hornbury in Gloucejlerjhirey
Willmn Fitz WilUams\ Tomb, Sir
Richard Worthy %y Dr. Thompfon^i
he -was Bilhop of Gloucejiery and
Dean of this Chapel ; by his Tomb
is his Effigies, a Skeleton well cut in
Stone. A Monument, whereon for-
merly lay a Bible, on y/hich thefe
Words were infcribed. Who laid this
here? "The Reverend Father in Gon
■Richard Beauchamp, Bijhop of Sa-

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 315

iifbury, ^c, vide. Tlie reft inti-
mates, that he who fhould read in
that Book, and look ftedfaftiy on a
Stone Crofs carved in the Roof,
fhould have forty Years Pardon.
King Henry VI. is buried here with-
out any other Monument than his
Coat of Arms on the Roof, and a
Chain hanging on the Necks of the
two Supporters, which are Antelopes,
A fair Monument of the good Earl
of Lincoln.^ and his Countels. One
Oliver King buried in his own little
Chapel; he was Secretary to four
Kings, 'viz. Edivard IV. and V. Ri-
chard III. and Henry VII. It is lb
written under thefe Kings Pictures
on the Wall. Charles Brandon.^ his
Atchievement hanging up. Here al-
fo lies a Lord Bray., who built a
great Part of this Chapel : He caufed .
a Brake, wherewith Hemp is drefled,
to be wrought in the Stone Work,

and

31(3 Mr.. RAYVIti NERARIES.

and on the Locks and Keys, &’c.
Edward IV. is buiied here under an
huge Grave-Stone, and over it a Pair
of Gates of well carved Steel of
great Value.

The Poor Knights w'ear a Iqof?
Red Gown over a Purple Gown at
Divine Service, how at other times
they are habited, I faw not : on their
•left Shoulder is St. Georges Crofs.
The two Silver Candlefticks and Ba^
fon on the Altar, were given by the
late Princefs of Orange. Behind St.
Georges Chapel is another Chapel
unfinifhed, v/here Cardinal Wolfey
intended to have had his own Monu-
ment. .Out of the fecond Court is
a Pallage over a Dravy-Bridge, and
through a great Gate-way, into that
which they call properly the CaJikj
which is the Kings Palace. Here
ftands the Main-Guard. Within the
4 fecond.

N

Mr. RAY’i Itineraries. 317

fecond Court is a Tower (called the
round Tower) ftanding upon a round
and high Hill, with a wide and deep
Ditch about it, where the Magazine
is kept. The third Court is a very
fair and fpacious Place, encompafled
vVith very good Buildings, on one
Side St. Georges Hall, where the
King dines with the Knights; alfo
the King’s private Chapel. There
are many fair Rooms in the Palace.-
The Roofs of the Guard-Chamber,
and the Prefence-Chamber, are
adorned with SpeculumSy fixed in the
Corners of the Fret-work. Along:
the North Side of the Caftle is a very
ftately Terras- Walk, from whence is
a View of the T'hames.

In the Hall is St. George?, Chair,
on the Back whereof is carved St.
George killing the Dragon, and the
Virgin ftanding by. In the lower-

moft

3i8 Mr. RAYV Itineraries.-

inoft Room of a Tower near St.-
Georges Hail, two Kings were kept'
Prifoners at once, viz. John King
of France, and David King of Scot-
land.

From TVindfor we palled a wooden
Bridge over the- Fhames to Rton.
Thefe two together make up a fair
and large Town. We law the Col-
lege, which is fomewhat interior to
JVincheJler College. The Chapel is
large, and fomewhat refembles King s
College Chapel in Cambridge. The
outer Chapel is ufed as the Parilh
Church • of Eto?i. None lit in the
Choir but fuch as are of the Foun-
dation, Here is a little Chapel of
one Lupton, with a Rebus carved on
it, to wit, Lup dxidzTun. The Mo-
nument of Mr. RouSf (late Provoft)
which was here eretted, was firft de-
faced and afterwards taken , down.

Murray i

Mr. RAW Itineraries. 319

MurraVf Tutor to King Charles I.
lies buried, and hath a Monument,
here. Sir Henry Savill buried here
under a Marble Tomb ; alfo Sir
Henry Wootton under a Marble, on
which are his Coat of Arms, and
this Infcription;

Hie jacet hujus Sententia primus autor^
Difputandi pruritus fit Ecclefiarum fcabies,
2<lomen alias quaere.

The College of Eton is built of Brick,
hath a pretty little fquare Court cloi-
ftered, round about.

325 Letters Ray,

(^) Mr. Ray to Mr. Derham.

Sir,'

I Received yours of April the 24th
laft paft, for which I return you
Thanks, andFirft, for your Approba-
tion of fuch Books as I have pub-
lifhed, though I dare not own any
fuch Worth in them, as to deferve
fo good an Opinion as you or others
niay have conceived of them. How-
ever, the. more unmerited fuch Com-
mendation is, the more Thanks I owe
You and Them for it.

2. For that particular and exadt
Account you have given me of the

(a) The Original is thus endorfed by Dr. 'Der-
ham \ ‘‘ Received this the 8th, 1702.”

Appearance

/

Letters ^Afr. Ray, 32!

Appearance of an innumerable Mul-
titude of fmall Frogs, covering the:
Highway, I doubt not but had
others, to whom the like Phsenome-
non hath occurred, been as inquili-
tive and obfervant as yourfelfj they
might have found out whence they
came forth. Had I received this Hi-
flory before the lafl Edition of my
Book of the Wifdom of God, ^Ci ,
I could have made good Ufe of it.

Your Obfervations of the whole
Procefs of the Generation of GnatSj
from the Egg to their mature State,

I fliould be glad to fee. I have leeri
that Water Animalcule, out of which
they immediately proceed, but never
faw their Eggs, or where they lay
them. It is not many Years fince
I applied myfelf to the Oblervatidn
and Search of Infects, in, order to
compofe an Hiftory of them; but,

Y no'vv '

322 Letters Ray,

now I am wholly taken of¥^ from that
Study, by the afflictive Pains I almoft
conftantly labour under, by reafon
of Ulcers upon my Legs, I having
not been Half a Mile out of mv

J

Houfe thefe four Years; and though
I have made Ufe of many Means,
and have had the Advice of fome of
the moft Ikilful Surgeons and Phyli-
' cians, yet without Succefs, growing
yearly worfe and worfe. Befides, I
have been very much haunted with a
troublefome Diarrhoea, frequently re-
curring ; fo that you may well think
I can have but little Heart to mind
natural Hiftory : But yet I am fo far
engaged, that I cannot fflake it offl
I have now juft ready to go under
the Prefs a third Volume of the Hi-
, ftory of Plants, being a Supplement
fo the two former Volumes, which
hath _ engrofled almoft my whole
Time, for two whole Years. Befides,

I have

Letters o/* Mr. Ray, 323

i have a little Book now printing at
Leyden in Holland^ inti tied Methodus
Plantarum emendata ^ auSla-.

An Account of your Obfervations
about other aquatic Irifefts would be
very acceptable*

As for Books abol'it Infects, writ-
ten in, or tranflated into Latin., I
know none but Aldrovand., Mouffet,
yohnfon, and Goedartius, except
Malpighius de Bombyce, and Dr. Lif-
ter de Araneis. The bed; general
Hiftory, ot Account of Iriledls, is
that of Swammerdam, written in
Low-Dutch, and tranflated into
French.

The fmall Worm you mention and
defcribe, I have often met with
among the Vifcera and Inteftines of
Animals, and elfewhere; but never
Y 2 attempted

324 Letters Mr. Ray,

attempted the Difcovery of its Man-
ner of Generation, and do guefs it
would be a very hard Talk to find it
out.

Your Difcovery of the long-beating
Death-Watch I read the Account
of in the Philofophical TranfaBionSy
foon after the Publication of it, with
great Satisfadion ; its Noife is more
agreeable to the leifurely and conftant
Tick of the Death-Watch commonly
oblerved, than that of Mr. M//e«’s. It
is time that I put a Period to this
Letter, the Remainder being only,
that I am,

5' I Ry

Your Sy hi all 0 Juices
of Love and ServicCy

John Ray,

Mr.

Letters of Mr. Ray, ^c. 32,5

Mr. Ray to Mr. Derham.

Sir,

I Received yours of the 19th, for
which I thank you, and acknow-
ledge myfelf much, obliged to you,
for being at the Expence of fo much
Time and Pains to gratify me.
What you have been pleafed to com-
municate, concerning the fudden
Appearance of a vafl: Multitude

of fmall Frogs, and the Account
you give of the Place where they
were generated, and whence they
did proceed, I have written out and
fent to London., to be inferted in
this laft Edition of my Treatife
concerning the Wifdom of God,
^c. as alfo what you have impart-
ed concerning the Ufe of thofe
extremely fmall Water Infeds or
Animalcules.

Y S

I'

As

326 Letters Ray,

As for the Hiftory of Infers, I
intend not a general one, but only
of fuch as are native of England,
adding fuch Exoticks as are found in
the Mufeums or Cabinets of the Cur
rious about London, or elfew’here.
Neither yet can I hope, that all that
I myfelf have obferved, or fhall ob-
tain from Friends, will amount to the
fifth Part of the Species that are na-
tive of this Ifland. I have, for fome
Years together, been a diligent
Searcher out of Papilios diurnal and
nodurnal, and though I have found
and defcribed near 300 Species, great
and fmall, of that Tribe or Genus,
within the fmall Compafs of 4 or 5
Miles ; yet came I not to the End of
them, fo long as I profecu'ted that
Enquiry, but every Year afforded me
new ones. Now the Genus of Beetles
is n.s numerous as that of the Papilios,
if not more. The Flies (fo at pre-.

fent

Letters ^Afr. Ray, &^c. 327

fent I call all Infefls that have naked
and fmooth, not farinaceous Wings),
both Bipenncs and Quadripennes, are
in a manner infinite, nor Hath their
Hiftory been with Diligence profecuted
by any Man that I know of, except
Mr. Willughby., whofe Manufcript I
hope to procure.

I cannot but admire your Induftry
and Patience, in fearching out and
obferving the various Species of Gnats,
with the Manner and Procefs of their
Generation, and the Succefs you have
had in difcovering them ; which may
encourage you to proceed in fuch
Enquiries, to which you are lb well
qualified, and, if I may fo fay, gifted.
For I look upon fuch a Sagacity in
fearching out, and Happinefs in find-
ing, new Things, as a Gift of God.
Were there but a fufficient Number
pf fuch Men, who would apply
Y 4 them-

328 Letters Mr. Ray,

themfelves to the Profecution of
the Hiftory of Infeds, much might
be done in it, and many rare Dif-
coveries made. I ceafe to give you
further Trouble, and reft,

SIR,

Tours, in all Offices
of Love and Service,

'^laci-Uetley, March

3L 1703*

John Ray.

Mr. Ray to Mr. Derham.

S I R, •

IT is now high Time that I give
you Thanks for the kind Viftt
you made me here, and thofe rare In-
fecTts you were pleafed to communi-
cate.

I am

Letters Ray, 329

I am now entering upon an Hi-
ftory of Infects, for which you would
have been a far fitter Perfon, having,
what I want, your Senfes intire,
your Strength firm, your Underftand-
ing and Memory perfed. The main
Reafori which induces me to undertake
it, is, becaufe I have Mr. Wtllughby %
Hiflory and Papers in my Hands,
who had fpent a great deal of Time,
and beflowed much Pains, upon this
Subjed, when there were few that
minded, or were diligent and curious
in it, though now there be many,
and it is Pity his Pains fbould be loft.

I know not whether I told you,
that I defigned, in every Tribe, firft
to put our EngHp Species by them-
felves, and then the Exotick by
themfelves. I defire you to afford
me your Help in carrying on this
Hiftory, and enrich it with fome of

your

330 Letters Ray, -

yoEir Obfervations, efpecially about
Flies, wherein we are moft deficient.

I hear you have publifiied, in the
P hilofophical Tranfa&ions^ a full Ac-
count, or Hiftory, of your new Death-
Watch, but have not yet leen it.

I anty SIR,

Tour's, in all Offices

of Pove and Service,

Black' Not ley, Augup

John Ray^

CUM

Letters Mr. Ray, 331

CUM ('aj educationis vejlrce cura
a pice memoriae parente (ami-
Gorum optimo) mihi delegata fit,
prsecipuaque penfi mei pars in mori-,
bus veftris ad normam a patre prse-
fcriptam formandis verfetur, officii
mei efle duxi, quae mihi in mundatis
dedit, vobis exponere ; eaque, ut pro
vdrili obfervare & implere annitamini,
obteftari: — Ut Virtu tis, libertatis, 6c
moderationis, quamprimum per sta-
tem licet, principia, vobis inftillem;
literarum amorem 6c vehemens defi-
derium ; laboris patientiam ; otii,
gulce, libidinis, & omnigeni luxus
odium, deteftationem, fugam vobis
fuadeam 6c ingenerem,

(a) The Reader will obferve,- that the two
firft Paragraphs of thefe Inftrudtions, are ad-
^relTed to both the learned Author’s Pupils,

, Hasc

332 Letters Ray,

Haec cum per abfentiam non licet
auribus vejiris viva voce infonare,-
fakem, quod poflum, literis config-
nata vobis ob oculos ponere, 6c ut
return perpetuo memores efie velitisy
orare non dekftam.

Cum autem te ad libertatem pro-
vocem, cavendum eft, ne vocem earn
aliter interpreteris, quamoportet; &
in ftniftrum fenfum detorqueas : —
Liber ergo eft, qui divinis mandatis
obtempcrat, qui rationem ducem fe-
quitur, qui pravorum affeduum jugum
excuftlt, qui nec guis, nee libidini
infervit, qui irte, odio, & ambitioni
dominatur ; non qui, . ut vult, vivit,
nift id velit, quod debeat, quodque
rationi confentaneum fit ; liber, qui

“ Nullius addidtus in verba jurare magiftri,”

aliena placita pro oraculis non habet,
fed eorum didtata ad Lydium rationis

lapidem.

Letters oyAfr. Ray, 333

lapideiii exigit (de iis intellige, qui
per astatem 8c ufum judicio valent,
qui ingenio pollent) : liber denique,
qui nec alienee voluntati in tantum le
emancipavit, ut ejus jufla fine deledlu
omnia, juftane an injufta fuerint pa-
rum folicitus, exequi paratus’fit, le-
gitimo tamen imperio in omnibus
licitis, honeftifque rebus prompte 8c
li ben ter obfequitur.

9

Si haec omnia obfervaveris, prout
te obfervafle fpero, 8c confido; qujE
dixi, non paraenefis fed encomium
funt; nec reprehenfionis fed laudis
materiam continent, teque fereno 8c
tranquillo animo efle jubent, 8c rede
fadorum confeientia laetari.— Siquidem

Quimonet, ut facias, quod jam facis, &c.”

Tantiim ut, quo caepifti pede, per-
gas ; 8c ut indies magis, magifque
perficias, confulendus es.

3

Imprimis

334 Letters ^Afr. Ray,

Imprimis autem te vehementer ex-^
hortor, ut a malorum confortio ab-^
horreas, nec iis unquam familiarius
utaris : memineris illius Apoftoli

))0)) ofj.iKicii x.jticai. ”

Verum, fi qui pii funt, & probi,
modefti, ingeniofi, dodli, illos tibi
focios afcifcas, cum iis amicitiam
colas, & libentiffime verleris, a qui-
bus ipfe aut dodlior Temper, aut me-
lior poffis difcedere.

Faftum omnem & fuperbiam ex
animo ejicias: reputes tecum, quam
ftultum fit hoc vitium, quam rationi
contrarium, quam Deo 8c hominibus
odiofum.

Summopere exo'randus es, ut pie-
tatem exerceas erga parentes, aliof-
que fanguine conjundos, quibus ^ta-
tis, dignitatis, aut. gradus refpedui

obfervan-^

Letters Ray, 335

obfervantiam & reverentiam debes,
ut eos debitis officiis colas eorumque
monitis, confiliis, imo & reprehen-
llonibus juftis aufcultes 8c obtemperes.

Tandem ut grato animo efle veils
erga omnes, qui detebenemeruerint:
— decorum, honeftum, juftum eft,
ut eos, qui te amore 8c benevolentia
profequuntur, qui fideli conftlio, aut
precibus apud Deum juverunt, qui
beneficiis cumularunt, ut eos, in-
quam, vicifllm diligas, 8c affedu
mutuo compledaris ; ut paria facere
contendas ; imo ut cum favore bene-
ficium reponas, 8c agros fertiles imi-
teris, qui multo plus reddunt, quam
acceperunt.

Haec funt, quse tibi confulere offi-
cii mei efie duxi, ut ingrati, imo in-
jufti notam effugiam ; “ utqui bene-
“ ficium acciperem, officiujm autem

“ ' non

336 Lettzks of Mr. Kay, &^c,

“ non przeftarem ullam — qu£e, ut
eodem, quo a me animo profeda
funt, accipias ; eademque non ut
monita mea, fed ut mandata paterna,
imo divina refpicias, & obferves,
rogo ; meque habeas pro humiliffimo
8c fidiffimo tuo cliente 8c fervo,

J. R.

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