2 Ao Fert; pm elite ie Pieced ee ir-ditipeienaed Daa tetetei. mooe on Parente? plead aiketet Cie Res oN em Bat Ae ten PeAitidtine ee ee ee te Pint LOA etn ei agom h A a e ie edibeemee “8 - a neIcT rite im . eee ee ae ee es ar ¥ I a, ae Ves. iste 2 Theat Pry 2 6 Val Vineet —* “ a de mire te ithe teen hte Se 4 me Sh ows ptietedien ae ee Mae tee > Oe. Em ni ea Me ~: Petites a hort Rath arena ie ee te a5 ee cg ny Wie eae reghineeend Oe, ee we Rsvie Be Pet i fo Ath ey Me Ae = th ata retina ate > Mee & lp pect es ‘ ale Berg arta Deen am ‘ nas - pry geen > - Ce emer on eh ee ee 4 . 9 . A Sthih Toa Ueuninatecirantwesaa tat ee as eadenptttcns amen te S n ay 5 P oe) ne Rt Rathbone alpine abt SRA DANES TS eee Rae ’ bear al ! R ; ; thet SE Si sy as a “ty ct a aac t whe eet OR i A htt ye : betaine nathematers erin Ge ee Se cata te. = NPM Id : ah as (7e-eae = vty, a 4 me PR vA, : a same tang — nts lars eek om OS i Die he . Aue WHET eons ‘ “2 centncioee : ea Yt dig 7 Sy ae, ; heme ee bs Say salle : 0 A i Py 5 “ 4 * = a a ee a 5 “ . = - Tee? ee M en wh -V eae ead ate Sgr tee eee ee es - = a Fete Q : Ail gS Maen, * PP x 4 elaine ee Tem Be lh eh e - —- pe pL 8 eu paqouempmencine can eae eee ou ble eclnci-is Seaeh dp eee ’ Wee + te en | ae Pa ae A ee ee ee ne = a witelet Atae dite. Res 24k SS Pe as ini - — eee ee ewe NSA aed ar cera PEt arte +p pungnaan Sagas ee, Poa gp haat he il Ba a) Gas re r = - * ee - Tree 4 me ’ . ‘ . 5 A “a ar ear von oe ag Oe in AP Aaa inte thegio eh eiehem, thy pope oe ke BO, hes - P : ae ee hae rs ae hen LA O2e, Say ® ; ’ THE SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN Volume VI 1907 — 1908 THE SIERRA CLUB SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 1908. 2||S90 fi ¢ / C2, S sped SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOLUME VI. CONTENTS. Author. Title. Page. BapE, WM. FREDERIC.......An Ascent of the Matterhorn..............00% 75 IBOGRHIREDIEWS Neleleie aici ehaieiereiels 62, 135, 206, 278, 330 AB EERIR OU) ici Hse, Ree’ esis sees Mit: Rose \Weather Observatory) esi ie ce leuk s 177 WAVIDSON, GEO: =.0.50..06 050 BG INGHVe nilVibs LEUGtIDECT, \iclevelscaicie ste sislatcte olelal ase rele ie 87 PODER | WV IMS) VIR: \e).6: 6/4/0165) TRORESEV UU MOLOS ) alata cial vrelatale aieralotela abataladiava ala lace lon ava 69, 334 EUETZS ME RANGTS | Mie of 6's chore. .An Easterner’s Impressions of a Sierra Club OTe ae ratrat al alstbiiabayelintic fa'veNayt Walavter step ale eva et alg atelier 255 Wega iRaLlerayKGWAp SAG LTAp wclaciaisielcinieiaielelaieele 290 Reamer ire RG sh alia ds) eee ea Lake Ramparts ....... mlavalislistatinats citer etttevateeaneanoanthaty 225 IEVARIN DENG) Bice) Welt iiaie lalielcie ei Indian Pictographs in Pate Valley.........0.20. 258 FREER MOTEAG ia 0 5)sle eles To Joseph Le Conte—A Poem.........4.. Canale 223 Bard tie kOP! NOSCMALEN EF ANK iis cheveicicisiclensisicislelsiaic ale 245 IGE INT PNW DETTA Mi cis |e: siele siete eles TRE DLMOO DSI a Noise cieletalstalatelciereboletaimsceatate a eieipislalsieievs 286 RCO MIEN VP ay Ne Si) eiale ve 6 si eain'e The Motion of the Nisqually Glacier, etc....... 108 Snowfall in the Sterra Nevada .........2+..2.- 310 PEM T PiU eeiete liaise c/sie ME OMESERM IN OLE Si Neliisl clave eieialclater ai atetet crete eletale 139, 208, 282 Manson, MARSDEN ......... The Effects of the Partial Suppression of Annual Forest Fires in the Sierra Nevada Mountains 22 IMIGADTE VAT BY i) )e esi 6 ¢iale's e Mt. Rainier, Mt. Shasta, and Mt. Whitney as Sites for Meteorological Observations..... 7 Monrok, HarriET .....-.... NE MOSCTRALE IVVADTEN SIO el cieiane lela pialiniig se eictelelchaleveraietenes 307 AVA TIE NORLN) foley els) «) cheval el elsigl sla IMAG AGHA OAECATH AY, ATLAS NIRA A aor la GI RNG) BIA 211 PARSONS, (Be Tassie 618 Area PALE MINI EE SIN GOTO aay aeaier ered alehersichersisialercuersisletel 6 285 Parsons, Marion R......... The Grand Cajions of the Tuolumne and the NA ret Holl tas Sis AY RNR HGS BUN AE ea RU Ro eSATA UR 235 Ai KHGpSacke Dip GO) IVMEN RILLET Aneel ec) eiece sie lsietens 301 RANDALL, MaRION ........ .-lLhe Sky-Line of the Tatoosh Range, Mt. Rainier INAELOM AW VEL AN Tela aieiironcienal lobar ersto eke eealsictelerel erclilels 15 The Second Kings River Outing..........0-05. 100 Ratciirr, Evetyn M........The Sierra Club’s Ascent of Mt. Rainier........ I RopMAN, WILLOUGHBY ...... In Memoriam, Joseph Le Conte.............00-- 25 SAMPSON, ALDEN ......... --Wild Animals of the Mt. Rainier National Park. 32 The Aftermath of a Club Outing.......05.-.0- 153 SETCHELL, Wm. ALBERT..... Wau terrae’) Eu TOGIE H's in) che vata aha) syalie's: &(awajaiaiciiayal's 39 SHORES GLEE ware g ula so. DW eusVPsater=OUZSEU cal asian eyes aiare esi avelataleleratele’s - 244 WVGCHER, (EAU ei aio lila The Ascent of ASGMa-Viand), isis dele eislaiclaiperaiciers 186 US Oo Gt PFI 240 aR Ea Along the Foothills to Lake Chabot..........+++. 175 iv ; Sierra Club Bulletin. ORGANIZATION OF) THE! SIERRA. CLUB ‘Fis \sjeic o sie o'eis ies ie + ooo aie le 43, 128, 196, 260, REVISED BY-LAWS) OF SIERRA ‘CLUB (nolo icc deslsisteacitic ta cl see eke eee NOTES AND (CORRESPONDENCE ie... a oeiek eee Cee eee en eee 52, 13%, 205,275; REPORTS: of the Joint Committee of the Mazama Club and the Sierra Club on the Mt) Rainier iNational Park. 22s.) ec cee eee « es'o o's 6, 0 cee) dees ee of) Outing “\Committee® os. .% ...... 182 The Observatory in | Transportation 3.00) occ eee eee 184 The) MainStreet of Waruizawa (2/3). 3) eee eee eee 186 Asama—Seen from Karuizawa ........ ia ible slallalielavtalieelteh a Uae area 192 Looking up Hetch-Hetchy Valley from Surprise Point.......... 211 Giant Oaks in the Fern Gardens of Hetch-Hetchy .............. 216 Sunrise! jin) Hetch-Hetchy Malley) aa gee een eee 218 Lake Rampart; West) Shore of DUenayali coca eee AY WA's Lake Rampart; Upper Basin of Rafferty Creek................-. 225 Near Sierra Club Camp in Tuolumne Meadows................ 235 A Glimpse of the Tuolumne Canon ).)i.)00\.)0). eke emi eee 235 Lake Washburn, Merced Cafion ...... 0... 0.0 cc ste e ceo ne ieee 2GO Lake Merced, Merced Cafion LO 236 Muir \Gorge,) Guolumne/ (Canon eiseimeeeinee eee enter itiedetenoneye 241 Crossing on’ Log, Pate Valleyiii ss uen cee aera ie Ue ee 242 A Portion of the Flowery Park-like Floor of Hetch-Hetchy...... 242 The) Water-Ouzel so ici ec ae Vea oke deli el oye siahelle tei Rell ee ates ters teen eee 244 Falis\at the) Head of; Tuolummne)|Canon 32.22 eee lee eee 256 Indian. Cliff, Pate: Valley) ee cee ees ieee Ve eee eee . 258 Indian Pictographs,) Pate) Valley yam cnc cle celeste eieeeeranee 258 Indian Pictographs, Pate (Walleye) eijers «cic laielene revelers eieieueneie aleneieie 259 Muir Woods 60a ST ee Le te eh OSs Mirar, | Woods. io ste ie us elal es Meets allele, eile iichin telies sitel ote leis bay tr oe pene teen 286 ME Woods) edie aoe Biiaieielisiie eiieestal setae hetteleiteratleh et ele ete taltell ais hela Mea tatira tae eat 286 California Laurel in Muir Woods .........0...2..00000c0 ces cee 288 Ritter Group, from the Divide South of Foerster Mountain..... 290 Looking Down Upper Merced Cafion, Showing Lake Washburn... 292 Glacier on the Southeast Slope of Mt. Ritter, the Bergschrund Showing on the Opposite Side ............--.seeeceeceees 206 Views! on) (Mts Ritter (| Drips OO 7/ sieves aie sisies ie oelelelalens sheieieleteleteneteate 304 The Merced River Through the Valley...................-6- 307 Vernal: Falls. cog eae eee aT RD TOL Ser SRE 308 ee —_—- PUBLICATIONS OF THE SIERRA CLUB Number 34 SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN Vol. VI , No. 1 : | , JANUARY, 1906 | io ‘ ose ‘Gy | MAR 8 1910 | WV. iat! , as iy I : onal Musee ‘i 1906 ow i SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. ‘ ; | sansonian Instig, > SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN JANUARY, 1906 Vol. VI. No. I . CONTENTS: THE SIERRA CLus’s ASCENT OF MT. PAGE CGN BS): IOWA CET EN DA Ces A RES Evelyn M. Ratchif.. 1 Plates, Li TIL Vaal be Mt. RAIntER, MT. SHASTA, AND MT. WHITNEY AS SITES FoR METEORO- LOGICAL OBSERVATORIES... . . AlexanderG.McAdie 7 Plate VII. Tue Sxky-LINnE OF THE TATOOSH RANGE, Mt. RAINIER NATIONAL PARKA oie ie Glee ee ame nee Gabe cs Marion Randall... . 15 Plates VIII, IX, X, XI. THe EFFECT OF THE PARTIAL Sup- PRESSION OF ANNUAL FOREST FIRES IN THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. 2 .o8 0. wel 6 8 oe Marsden Monson eee In MEMORIAM: JOSEPH LECONTE. . Willoughby Rodman. 25 Plate XII. WiLp ANIMALS OF THE MT. RAINIER NATIONAL, PARK (0). 0) wae Ss) « adden Sampson. ue THE SIERRAN PUFFBALL). (J) 4). °= je) William A. Setchell. 39 Plate XIII. ORGANIZATION OF THE SIBRRA CLUB... 20. 2 0s es ete MAS REPORTS : é Report of the Joint Committee of the Mazama Club and the Sierra Club on the Mt. Rainier National Park. 44 REport.or Outing Committee.) 7 vse eens ie he ke ee ee 50 Notes AND) CORRESPONDENCE 4) 2.425 ts eh eee BOOKS REVIEWS! Cc. Weng tacit ter te Wm. Frederic Badé. 62 Plate XIV..- . FORESTRY) NOTES ) Sy Comsat eae William R. Dudley.. 69 All communications intended for publication by the SIERRA Cus, and all correspondence concerning such publication, should be addressed to the Editor, Elliott McAllister, 704 Union Trust Building, San Francisco, California. Correspondence concerning the distribution and sale of the publications of the Club, and concerning its business generally, should be addressed to the Secretary of the Sierra Club, Room 316, Third Floor, Mills Building, San Francisco, California. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE I. SIERRA CLUB PARTY DESCENDING MT. RAINIER. Irom photograph by E. T. Parsons, 1905. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. Vou, VI. SAN FRANCISCO, JANUARY, 1906. IN@sii THE SIERRA CLUB’S ASCENT OF MT. RAINIER.* By Evetyn MARIANNE RATCLIFF, Every year the Sierra Club gives the lover of natural scenery an opportunity to gratify his taste. From the Club’s camp in Paradise Valley I had my first experience of a formidable mountain climb. Pitched on the slope of “Mt. Rainier at an altitude of about 5,500 feet,—almost at timber-line,—it was within a few moments’ reach of the Nisqually Glacier, which at that point is a mass of be- grimed ice and nevé, furrowed crosswise with crevasses and lengthwise with moraines as far as eye can see. Be- yond Paradise Valley looms the Tatoosh Range, a beauti- iul little series of summits, half-covered with a resplendent mantle of snow when we saw it. Indeed, its attractions were found so irresistible that we decided to climb its highest peak soon after establishing our main camp. A most perfect day’s outing it proved to be; enough snow to make us realize its height and enough rock-work to add the spice of danger to the climb.f The summit of Pinnacle Peak afforded a magnificent view of Mt. Rainier, whose lofty white cone flung a chailenge to us across the valley. From our cloud perch we scanned the great mountain narrowly, for its conquest was to be our main effort, and our respect for its height grew as we looked. The start was made on July 24th, a day when the peak was wearing not a vestige of the cloud-cap that is * For a narrative of the entire outing see the Report of the Outing Committee, page 50, in/ra. + See the article, ‘‘Sky-Line of the Tatoosh Range,’’ in this number. o 2 Sierra Club Bulletin. the usual warning for storms. Fifty-three persons, head- ed by Mr. Parsons, lined up in camp and were formed into five companies, each with its own leader. There were also the scientists who under Mr. McAdie’s guid- ance were to measure the height of the mountain. A goodly array of mountaineers we were,—a greater num- ber than had ever before attempted the ascent, and greater probably than ever will again. The mountain is not with- out dangers, and as the risk was increased by the size of the party it was owing only to the great vigilance of the leaders that our safety was secured. An afternoon’s struggle in the snow was our first day’s programme. To our left stretched the Nisqually Glacier, growing whiter and more picturesque as we climbed higher and higher. Every now and then an avalanche came hurtling down on the glacier. As we stopped from time to time for breath, we had leisure to watch the great white field, and were delighted if we caught sight of the falling mass before its boom reached our ears. What an awe- inspiring sight it is to see a thunderbolt of ice and snow flash down a mountain-side! At one time a flock of moun- tain goats came into view, and we observed them as closely as the distance would allow. We now began to reach altitudes from which it was possible to appreciate more fully the greatness of the glacier, and to understand how the crevasses came to be formed by the uneven motion of the ice-stream down the sloping chan- nel. About a thousand feet below Camp Muir the pack-train unloaded its freight, and we all carried our sleeping-bags, the men carrying also the com- missary supplies. On reaching the camp, a rocky slope surrounded by snow, at an altitude of about 10,000 feet. our first task was to move the boulders into places where they would interfere as little as possible with the coming night’s sleep. Unfortunately the little remained a good deal in spite of our best efforts. But I was fortunate enough to secure a place surrounded by a kind of rock wall, so that there was no danger of being chilled by RESTIN ORGANIZING FOR CLIMB OF MT. RAINIER. . = i ON CLIMB—OVERLOOKING NISQUALLY GLACIER, From photographs by I. T. Parsons, 1905. The Sierra Club’s Ascent of Mt. Raimer. 3 the wind. It was then shortly after 6 o’clock, and as the sun disappeared behind the rocks the snow became quite hard and crisp—evidence that the frost had already sei in. Against the cold we were prepared, for we had been informed that this would be the severest of our hardships during the climb. But as it grew colder and colder I began to think with some misgiving of my ten-pound sleeping-bag, which consisted merely of an eiderdown quilt covered with denim and a thin oil-silk water-proof bag. This misgiving proved groundless, however, for I slept away the night perfectly warm in my sequestered nook. Judging by the cheerful countenances seen the next morning, the rest of the party also suffered no hardship. At supper-time, while waiting for hot soup, tea, and beans,—a truly sumptuous meal to be cooked on a Khotal stove* and served amid such surroundings,—we had ample time to enjoy the magnificent view. The eye was first attracted by three snow-peaks standing out clearly in the distance, with the sunset glow illuminating them in a most wonderful way. There was Hood, a mountain of perfect conical form, flanked on either side by St. Helens and Adams. Almost at our very feet lay the Tatoosh Range, the scene of our conquest a few days before. How utterly insignificant it now looked! Our eyes unconsciously wandered back to the three im- posing peaks, and a sense of exhilaration took possession of us as we reflected that we were about to conquer a greater than any of these. With the moon still high in the heavens, we rose, breakfasted, and, as dawn slowly appeared, began the ascent. From now on it was hard work. The climbing of Rainier is not a holiday jaunt. As far as Gibraltar Rock it was a constant alternation between rock and *It should interest mountaineers generally to know that two small single- burner Khotal oil-stoves, weighing only seven pounds each, an improvement on the Primus stove, cooked for the sixty-two people in camp that night a supper of soup, tea, and canned pork and beans, and breakfast thc next morning, with a total consumption of less than one-half gallon of kerosene oil. 4 Sierra Club Bulletin. snow climbing, in the former our main care being to avoid dislodging rocks, and in the latter to choose our footholds so as to keep from slipping. On the rocks it was at times necessary for two or three persons only to proceed simul- taneously, in order to avoid as much as possible the danger of precipitating rocks upon the heads of people - below. There were places on the snow where a dexterous use of the alpenstock might have rendered a misstep harmless. But there were places also where the slope was so nearly vertical that no power on earth could have arrested a falling climber. At Gibraltar still greater obstacles confronted us. On the west side of the rock there was a narrow ledge from which a steep talus fell away, terminating abruptly over a precipice. This ledge had to be footed with great care, for a good part of it was covered with ice, and nothing could have saved. the luckless person who had slipped there. In places of this kind one element of danger against which a moun- taineer’s skill is powerless consists in cannonades of rocks started by the action of the sun on frosted surfaces. Fortunately our early start obviated this danger in large measure. But we lost no time in passing this point. The end of the ledge led to a steep chute of glacial ice. Here the leader’s ice-ax came into play, for every step had to be cut. Then a rope was passed up, and with the aid of that and our alpenstocks we reached the top of the slope safely. Not, however, without the utmost precau- tions, for here also a misstep would have been fatal. Arrived at the top of Gibraltar, we stopped to rest a moment in a nook sheltered from the chilling wind and suffused with the first rays of the rising sun. Presently another great snow-field was under our feet. Our prog- ress now was slow and interrupted by frequent short halts to enable us to catch our breath. The effect of the altitude began to tell in the effort that had to be put forth at every step. Despite the warmth of the sun’s rays, a strong westerly wind chilled us to the bone. Fortunately it acted as a spur also to our flagging energies, and we PLATE IV. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. BRALTAR. G x 1 C PASSIN ) s by AR (SECOND DAY s ALP GIBR ie CEE aX \PPRO yw IB. 405 IeirSoMis;, NCOs. From photograph "S061 ‘suosivg “f, “oy Aq syde1sojoyd wo.syy "(Ava GNOOMS ) YWHINIVa LN FO LINWOAS NO WALVAO LV IVAINNV AO LNIOd ‘(AVC ISU) SATHIM-MONS NO ALNVd ‘IA GNV A FZLVId ; ‘LA “TOA ‘NILAIINGA AATO VUNAIS The Sierra Club’s Ascent of Mt. Raimer. 5 tramped on steadily until a ridge of volcanic rock told us that we had reached the rim of the crater; for Rainier once upon a time was a great fire-mountain whose gleam- ing streams of incandescent lava and lofty pillar of ash- laden smoke must have made its summit a much more impressive sight than the silent white snow-fields that now choke its smoldering fires. Only a mountaineer can ap- preciate the sense of exhilaration with which we con- templated the vast expanse of the crater and told our- selves that we had conquered the kingliest among all the mountains of the United States. It was then 9:30 A.M. The climb had occupied us only five hours from Camp Muir, a fact upon which we reflected with much satisfaction, since we had expected it to take at least seven. It was impossible to remain exposed long in the gale of wind that was sweeping the summit, so we sought shelter behind some rocks, and each made an onslaught on the lunch which a Sierran always carries in a bandana handkerchief tied to his belt. The leisurely disposition of the. lunch was followed by a postprandial tour of investigation around the crater. Crossing half a mile of snow that filled the basin of the crater, we reached the highest point on the summit. Puget Sound, numerous valleys, and ranges of hills could be seen extending for miles from the mountain. But on the whole this view suffered by comparison with that which we had enjoyed the night before from Camp Muir. The height of the mountain is about 14,528 feet. The timber-line is reached at about 5,500 feet. This leaves a zone nearly two miles in width across which the eye has to travel without the aid of objects that usually furnish a sense of perspective. A slight haze also veiled the distance so that this part of the trip left some expecta- tions unrealized. Smoke still issues from the crater in some places near the edge, and sulphurous gases are emitted in great quantities. But the mouth of the crater has been filled with snow, which forms an almost level field across the center. 6 Sierra Club Bulletin. The descent was begun about noon, and proved harder work than I at least had anticipated. No sliding could be attempted on account of crevasses in some places and the steepness of the snow-slope in others. Only a few weeks ago one of the guides had slipped on the snow not far from Camp Muir. Having dropped his ice-ax, he was unable to stop himself. He slid down the snowy slope until he came to a wide crevasse which he could not avoid, and consequently tried to jump. Unfortunate- ly he struck the other side of the crevasse too low, and went down, breaking his legs as he fell. The character of the climbing at times was such that a similar or worse misadventure had to be reckoned among the possibilities ; for a steep incline would be sure to end with a crevasse, a rock talus, or a precipice. Consequently we redoubled our precautions, planting our alpenstocks with care, and stepping with precision. Once more on the icy slope near Gibraltar we used the rope, and descended very slowly and cautiously. Arrived under the brow of the great cliff, we found it necessary to make all possible haste; for, seeing an immense boulder break off above and go thundering across our path, we realized the danger of our position. By keeping close to the wall it was possible to lessen somewhat the chances of being hit. Fortunately all passed the end of the ledge in safety. At Camp Muir a brief halt and a cup of tea restored our flagging energies. The worst was over. Not long there- after we marched into camp with the grateful feeling of accomplished purpose and thrilling memories of a hardy pastime. “S061 ‘stjiny joyesy Aq ydessojoyd wo.z,7 HINIVA “LIN AO LINWOS NO ACNLILIV MOT SLINAWANASVAW DONIMVL igen rie ; i | a 3 ‘IA “I1OA ‘NILATINA ANTO VuUTIS ‘IIA ALVId Mountain Sites for Meteorological Observatories. 7 MT.. RAINIER, MT. SHASTA, AND MT. WHITNEY AS SELES; FOR METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATORIES. By ALEXANDER G. MCADIE. -In 1903 an ascent of Mt. Whitney was made by the writer, and a report upon its availability as a site for meteorological research published in the SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, June, 1904. The elevation 14,515 feet, then de- termined barometrically, was thirteen feet higher than the value determined by precise levels in August, 1905, by the U. S. Geological Survey, Mr. R. A. Farmer, topographer. During the present summer ascents of Mt. Rainier and Mt. Shasta were successfully made. Mercurial barome- ters, a boiling-point thermometer, wet- and dry-bulb ther- mometers, and other apparatus were carried to each summit. The barometers were the same as those used at Mt. Whitney. Check readings were made at San Francisco and at Portland; and simultaneous readings for sea-level conditions at Seattle, Tacoma, Portland, Spokane, Red Bluff,-and Eureka, through the courtesy of the officials in charge of the Weather Bureau offices in those cities. Professor J. N. Le Conte,* of the Uni- versity of California, checked the readings at both peaks; and Messrs. Franklin, Knapp, Hutchinson, Gardner, Gould, and Elston assisted. Camp at an elevation of 5,500 feet was made in Para- dise Valley on the southern slope of Mt. Rainier July 16th-31st. Leaving camp July 24th, the night was spent at Camp Muir, and on July 25th the ascent completed. Starting from Sisson, Mt. Shasta was climbed on August 4-5, 1905. * Professor Le Conte also checked the readings made on summit of Mt. Whitney in 1903. 8 Sierra Club Bulletin. The coordinates of the peaks are :— Rainier )..2 346) 5%) ie Nu. Teme: erkes ie Shasta. uag ans (uN roe) nt AO ee Wihitiney./.): 300 \aaiga7 ING nS) 7 ee ae The elevations are :— alien cere 14,394 feet, approximately. Shasta |... J...) 144200 feet: approximately: Witney ieee: 14,502 feet, true. These peaks, it will be noted, are so located as to offer an ideal opportunity for studying weather con- ditions on the Pacific Coast. They stand like three sentinels in a stretch of seven hundred miles, at such distances from one another and so related to the orography of the coast that an almost unparalleled op- portunity is afforded for obtaining a cross-section of the general storm tracks and prevailing wind direction at levels extending almost from the sea to a height of 4,420 meters (14,500 feet). A chain of high-level ob- servatories is particularly desirable on the Pacific Coast, inasmuch as the general climatic conditions are essentially different from those of other sections of the country, being in fact materially modified by the proximity of the ocean and the extremely diversified topography of the coast. As stations for research and original investi- gation of problems connected with the physics of the atmosphere, these peaks are exceptionally well adapted. The most northern, Rainier, lies directly in the mean storm-track, and permits of experimentation upon cloudy condensation in the free air, rainfall, and snowfali throughout the entire gamut of pressure and temperature conditions. The most southern peak, Whitney, is located in a region probably the driest in the United States. With nearly half of the sensible atmosphere below its summit and a minimum amount of water-vapor present, no better site could be found for investigating the part played by the atmosphere in the absorption of solar en- ergy. The discoveries made at all lower-level observa- Mountaim Sites for Meteorological Observatories. 9 tories, giving as they must results obtained after the passage of the radiant energy through a considerable stratum of atmosphere, can only be completely verified by comparison with the results obtained at levels approxi- mately above the sensible atmosphere. Again, in connection with the radio-activity of air, it is believed that conditions are very favorable for experi- ments on the ionization of the upper air strata and the part played by electrons as nuclei for condensation. But chiefly in connection with the practical question of improving the forecasts over the western half of the country is it important that observatories should be estab- lished on these peaks. The Pacific Coast is essentially a region of marked climatic contrasts. Within short dis- tances great differences are found. In other words, local climates are prevalent to a marked degree in this Western country, and there is little of the general uniformity of temperature and other conditions prevailing east of the one hundredth meridian. It is believed that dynamic compression of the air forced down mountain-sides and into long narrow valleys plays an important role in determining local climates. “ Foehn”’ or “ Chinook’ conditions must be studied from the vantage-ground of high-level stations. Perhaps the most destructive single condition in California (not excepting a severe frost, or an exceptionally severe storm) is the norther of the Great Valley, or the kindred wind known as the Santa Ana of the region south of the pier lvladre,) Handicapped) as, the’ forecaster is \on the Pacific Coast by a paucity of reports from the west, it is all the more necessary to obtain reports in other ways. Mountain winds play no inconsiderable part in the meteorology of the coast. We have the action of the wind in its general easterly drift, the air circulation due to the procession of passing disturbances, and, more pronounced still, the localized wind-currents or forced draughts up and down the mountain-flanks and through the numerous valleys. It is well known that many sta- 10 Sierra Club Bulletin. tions located in valleys are now of doubtful service to the forecaster because the reports do not indicate true cyclonic wind movements. | It is of course no easy matter to erect, equip, and maintain mountain observatories, and while it might be possible to carry out the plan as outlined, it would prob- ably be much better to place self-recording apparatus on the summits, properly exposed, and establish a series of camps at levels of five, eight, and twelve thousand feet. ELEVATION OF MT. RAINIER. Columbia Crest, summit of Mt. Rainier, July 25, 1905, 11 A.M. to 12 noon. ‘Observers, Jy Nive A. G. M. Mercurial barometers, Green standard No. 1664 and No. 1554; four readings, 17.614, 17.616, 17.630, 17.632 inches. Temperature, mean, 39° F. Mean pres- sure, corrected for temperature, instrumental error, and gravity, 17.663 inches. Mean temperature of air column, obtained from readings at summit and at sea-level, 50° F. Sea-level reading, mean of Tacoma, Seattle, Portland, and Spokane, 29.960 inches. h—h, = 56517 + 123.3 8+ .003h (I + 0.378 = ) (1 + .0026 cos 2 ¢) log = which may be written log 29.960 = log 17.663 +- h—h, — 6) (1—y) (1 50507 az (123-3 X50) aia 093 ie Ih == 62725 )X 01220470) 1420 4a heer: The boiling-point as determined on the south rim of the crater, probably one hundred feet below the true summit, was 86°.4 C. (187°.4 F.). The equivalent pres- sure would be 17.960 inches. We shall probably not be Mountain Sites for Meteorological Observatories. 11 greatly in error if we assume that the boiling-point on the summit is about 186°.8, and the equivalent pressure 17.73 inches. A sling psychrometer gave the following :— Ware7 0H! 3267.4 126.5 367.5. 377.0, Mean, 36°.7 Wierwa20 7; 28..0 25 .0° 24 .2) 25 .5 Wh 320) 30 The dew-point was approximately 10°, vapor tension 0.07 inch and = = OOOA: ELEVATION OF MT. SHASTA. Summit of Mt. Shasta, August 5, 1905, 12 noon to iaGme. M7 Stix) Teadings, 17.088, 17.990, 17.9002, 17.077, iguZz. i7.0e0 imches, Mican pressure, corrected’ for temperature, instrumental error, and gravity, 17.993; mean temperature air column, 60° F. Sea-level readings, Eureka, San Francisco, 30.000 inches. n= 62055) 0.222017 == 14) 200) fect, The boiling-point at the summit was 86°.5 C. (tezc-7 H))) Equivalent pressure, 18.080 inches: The height of Shasta given on the Geological Survey sheet is 14,380 feet (intended for 14,389 feet) ; but this elevation was determined more than twenty years ago by combining the results obtained by vertical angles and mercurial barometers. In a letter dated August 24, 1905, the Acting Director of the Survey states that “doubt is thrown on the value from the fact that an exact elevation of the base station was not known, and the methods used would now be considered only ap- proximate.” MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. The following table of boiling-points may be inter- esting. It should, however, be noted that a strong wind was blowing when the readings were made at Mt. Rainier on the south rim of the crater. 12 Sierra Club Bulletin. Whitney, 186°.47 F. (Hallock 1903). Rainier, 187°.4 F. (crater readings). Estimated summit reading, 186°.8. Shasta, 187°.7 F. Muir’s Camp, 194° F. Estimated height, 10,000 feet. Paradise Valley, Sierra Camp, 202°.4 F. Estimated height 5,700 feet. Horse Camp, Mt. Shasta, 198°.5 F. Estimated height, 7,900 feet. Observations based upon pressure determinations are confessedly less exact than those made by vertical angles or by levels. It is fully recognized in the above deter- mination that the mean temperature of the air column may be in error, Jf air were at perfect) rest, hice it seldom is, a mean value might be obtainable; but on both dates mentioned we observed a marked stratification of the air, and under such conditions temperature and humidity values are indeterminable. Above the level of 10,000 feet the drift of the air appeared to be entirely different from the drift of the lower level. The humidity values, in the opinion of the writer, cannot be properly obtained without a series of simultaneous readings at probably not less than five points in the air column. HISTORICAL. The first estimate of the height of Mt. Rainier was made by Captain George Vancouver on Saturday, May 26, 1792. He had named the “round snowy mountain ”’ on Tuesday, May 8th, after his friend, Rear-Admiral Rainier. No one had a better right to stand sponsor. The names which he gave to the peaks, bays, channels, and islands of the North Pacific coast,—Hood and Baker, after Lord Hood and Admiral Baker; Puget Sound, after his first mate, Peter Puget; the Straits of Georgia and Queen Charlotte Sound, after king and queen,—have all been graciously accepted and remain Mountain Sites for Meteorological Observatories. 13 unquestioned, save one, Mt. Rainier. In the city of Ta- coma, the mountain is called Mt. Tacoma. Long before the city existed, Vancouver (first white man to see that section) wrote of the country round about: “The forest trees gradually decreased and the perpetual clothing of snow commenced, a horizontal line from north to south along the range of ragged mountains, from whose summit Mt. Rainier rose conspicuously and seemed as much elevated above them as they were above the sea.”* At that time of the year the snow- line would be approximately seven thousand feet above sea-level. Hence Vancouver’s estimate of double this height was not a bad one. Moreover, Vancouver first gave the coordinates of the mountain: latitude, Ane Ns) and: longitude 2387 \2”))\(-— 26007)).)) Phere is also an excellent sketch of Mt. Rainier made by J. Sykes, May 17, 1792. The heights of Mt. Rainier commonly given are: By. ineraham,)n4)524 ceet; Geo! F) Evyde,''U. S: Geo- logical Survey, 1896, 14,519 feet; McClure, McAllister, 1897, 14,528 feet. Not until a line of precise levels shall be run wil! the true height of this kingly motmtain be determined, and it may be pointed out that even then snowfall may modify the figure slightly. Before the top of the moun- tain was blown off and the crater formed, the summit was probably fifteen hundred feet higher than Columbia Crest. The Acting Director of the Geological Survey, under date of August 24, 1905, states that the best determina- tion of the height of Mt. Rainier by one of the topog- raphers in 1902 is 14,363 feet above mean _ sea-level. This value was obtained by means of vertical-angle fore- sights taken from triangulation stations thirteen to twen- ty-nine miles distant from Rainier. The elevations of these stations were well determined from _ spirit-level observations. * A Voyage of Discovery Around tke World. 6 volumes. London, 18or. 14 Sierra Club Bulletin. Of all the measurements which have been made in connection with the height of Mt. Rainier, the one which possesses the most pathetic interest is that made by Pro- tessor Edgar McClure of the University of Oregon on July 27, 1897, at 4:30 p.m. A Green standard mercurial barometer, No. 1612, was successfully carried to the summit, and readings carefully made. The reading, cor- rected for instrumental error and temperature, was 17.708 inches; with an air temperature of 29° F. Returning from the summit, Professor McClure lost his life in the act of giving warning to others to avoid the peril of his position. Huis body and the barometer were subsequently recovered, and the results discussed by his colleague, Professor McAllister. McClure’s work in this and other directions was of a high order of accuracy, and probably no one was better fitted to attempt the task which he set for himself. The value obtained, reduced according to present methods, gives an elevation of approximately 14,454 feet. This value is only sixty feet in excess of the value given above, determined by the writer on July 25, 1905,—namely, 14,394 feet. “S001 ‘suosivg “7 “y Aq ydersoj0yd wo.1,7 “AUTIVA HSIGVUVd “dNVD ANIO VUNHIS WOW ‘SGNOTD AHL HAOGVY AONVA HSOOLV.L ‘ITIA ULVId ‘IA “TOA ‘NILATING AATO VUNAIS The Sky-Line of the Tatoosh Range. 15 Pe SKY-LINE: OF THE TATOOSH RANGE, MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK. By Marion RANDALL. Onetnevaiternoon of the 16th ot July nine of us Sierrans who have had many days of mountaineering together sat on the top of Pinnacle Peak and determined to our own satisfaction that that mountain did not deserve the honor accorded it of being the highest point of its chain, but that a little-considered, and, as far as we knew, absolutely unexplored, peak at the farther end of the range was the real summit. We thereupon christened it Unicorn Peak, for reasons sufficiently evident, and re- solved that before many days should have passed we should climb it and attain the actual summit of the Tatoosh Range. This little mountain chain, while rising only to the elevation of seven thousand feet, is. extremely pictur- esque. Formed of a dark volcanic rock, and with its steep northern slopes deeply buried in snow, its abrupt, straight wall, running from east to west for some ten miles, presents difficulties that many a range twice its size cannot boast. We had watched it often from camp at sunset, when the long purple shadows were thrown across its rosy snow-fields, or with its black pinnacles breaking through the storm-clouds into the sunlight again, until we knew every crest and col by heart. So it was not difficult to map out our line of exploration. We left camp, fifteen strong, after 8 o’clock on the morning of the 20th, crossed the low ridge above the commissary, and swung down the long, open slope to the Paradise River. Across the stream, where the woods grew closer, the ground was carpeted with soft mosses and banks of starry erythronium lilies. We climbed on, 16 Sierra Club Bulletin. brushing through the dewy branches of the underwood, until, emerging in a little open place, we caused consid- erable perturbation among a large colony of whistling marmots who had been disporting themselves among the rocks of a great talus slope along its eastern margin. At our approach they shambled into retirement as speedily as possible—all except a few portly members of the com- munity, whose dignity, or possibly whose curiosity, for- bade flight. They sat mildly regarding us as we crept closer, their occasional half-hearted impulses to escape being checked each time by a sharp whistle from a mem- ber of our party, which invariably excited enough interest to cause them to forget their project. After paying our respects to the patriarch long enough to take his picture, we proceeded on our way. We crossed the wooded hill and descended its farther side to a lake that lay at the base of the Tatoosh Range. Everywhere flowers were spread, along the little water- courses, bending down ciose to the lake shore, and grow- ing tall and rank in the path of an old fire,—patches of valerian and columbine and crimson paintbrush, and the tall, white, spearlike blossoms of the squaw-grass trying to cover the unsightly blackened logs that crisscrossed the ground for miles. There is a prodigal touch to nature that puts our prudent foresight to scorn. The trees that don their bravest apparel to meet the winter frosts, the skies that spread such a wealth of color to greet the oncoming night, the flowers that bloom most riotously where the snow lies longest and make the very brevity of the sum- mer an excuse for their lavish profusion,—how these shame that spirit of little faith which would make us nig- gards of our joy, afraid to give of what happiness we have lest the morrow find us bankrupt! But something of Nature’s spendthrift humor enters into every day spent in seeking the high places. A cheerful recklessness as- sumes control of our usually prudent minds. We take no thought for to-morrow’s aching bones; we only know So61 ‘suosieg “yj “of 4q Ydeisojoyd wo.ryy “TIVUL ANII-AMS NO ‘TA “TOA ‘NILAIIAA ANIO VANAIS “xI ALVId The Sky-Line of the Tatoosh. Range. 07, that the day is young, and that we, body and mind, feel as fresh and unjaded as the day, that the spirit of ad- venture is abroad in the land, and that the gladness of the sunshine has taken possession of our souls. We loitered along like a band of children, making merry over every trivial happening, as when the inlet of the lake proved a little embarrassing for some of us to cross. Those who had waterproof boots chose a shallow place and waded, but one spry maiden whose footgear had seen three summers of mountain wear elected to jump. She landed safely, amid cheers, but her iunch, not faring so well, fell in midstream, and was fished out dripping at the end of an alpenstock with all the empressement of a deep-sea rescue. At a point several miles from our objective peak we started to climb, taking the most practicable route to the snow-fields and passing up through them to the crest. Here we stopped to don snow-goggles or veils and to put on the “war-paint” that protected our faces from snow-burn, and then, with a fresh grip on our alpenstocks, set forth eastward on the “ Sky-Line Trail.” Starting from the saddle below Pinnacle, we skirted the edge of the peak to the east. Pink heather and white cassiope bells spread close to the snow-line, and the stunted firs, growing on the more open southern slope, crept to its brow to take a peep northward into the world of ice and snow. Instead of lying almost in line with Pinnacle, as it appeared from camp, Unicorn is set back from the main ridge nearly two miles. Another divide, running almost at right angles in a southerly direction, connects Unicorn with the longer range, and at the intersecting point of the two ridges there is a low peak. High up on this, feeding in the open near its summit, we had a good look at two deer, possibly an eighth of a mile away. They scented our approach almost immediately, and set off at a lively pace around the peak, disappearing finally over the divide very close to the place we had marked for 18 Sierra Club Bulletin. our crossing. They were not destined to escape our acquaintance so easily, however. Evidently they were not used to Sierra Club ways, and, having put a mountain between us, deemed themselves safe from further disturb- ance. So one of them was composedly finishing his noon- day meal just over the brow of the divide; and we, chancing, for a wonder, to be moving rather silently, came within twenty feet of him before he realized our presence. Our surprise, though hardly less than his own, did not take so spasmodic a form. The five or six stiff- legged leaps that took him across the snow into the cover of the dwarf firs could not have been excelled by any jumping-jack in the land. After hearing all one’s life such expressions as “graceful as a deer,” and “she ran like a young deer,” it is both disappointing and dis- illusioning to have one’s first specimen of a real live wild deer go off in a series of rapid-fire hops like that; it destroys one’s faith in the poets. Not very long after this we stopped for lunch, which we finished with business-like rapidity, realizing that the afternoon was upon us, and that, pleasant though the loitering on the sky-line might be, it behooved us to hasten if we meant to conquer our peak. It was past I o'clock before we reached the base of the saddle between Unicorn Peak and the high shoulder to the west. Here we held a short council of war. The snow-field was ex- ceedingly steep—so steep that it was evident much time would have to be consumed in the cutting of steps. On the other hand, if we took the alternative offered, and, circling the snow-field, made the approach by way of the shoulder, we ran the risk of encountering precipitous cliffs that might effectually bar our progress and compel us to retrace our way. We finally decided to try the snow-field. For some little distance it was easy enough, but ali at once the slope tilted itself up so that it was no longer safe to trust to the footing afforded by the ice-calks in our shoes or to the balancing power given by our alpen- SITERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE X. Unicorn Peak. SIV SENG Rees OLS I Ene yAm@ @S ei iRAIN Gil. From photograph by E. T. Parsons, 1905. ae a i en - E } i weg he i) a si0 r \ ! y coy ae . ki ag i i i vie b E , Pues S ? » ea PA NY 4 Ab atte ma EAB” asta eG ma gas ba Sp sr Thr vy OF one WMTW SAT WA aa aif wey: ne Rh ham hae Air MRL Ch ar ou , =a . , ; c hd 1: 1 4 1 t : fr i m ' f ceca 5 wie Hy - Ma r 2 ‘ \ y { ‘ t f r * . i Res ij rie ; ; Hi 7 roe a yg t +# tee , * * J - t a 4 h S , Pd ahem , my i C204 P The Sky-Line of the Tatoosh Range. 19 stocks; it was necessary to begin the dolorous task of cutting steps. What mountaineers term ice-steps are gen- erally gashes about the size of an ordinary blaze on a tree; but in this case we had roomy landings that two mountain boots could cccupy at once. The first man chopped the gashes with an ice-ax, the second man amused himself by enlarging them with a hatchet, while the third scratched away the snow with both hands, like a dog after a squirrel. This excavating process was an agreeable pastime for those in front, but we poor creatures back in the line stood for two mortal hours with a blazing sun beating on our heads, but with our feet gradually freezing, and mounted upward one slow step at a time. Part of the way our rate of progress was measured off by the chanting of a doleful chorus, since become en- deared by association to the heart of many a Sierran, whose final word, “ Change!” invariably was the signal for a one-step advance. And all the while the slope grew steeper and the rocks at the foot of it looked the more ominous, while the speed of the chunks of ice and snow that came hissing down past us from the choppers gave an unpleasant indication of the momentum that might be gained by a large body in the act of falling. From the crest of the saddle the snow fell away on the southern side to meet a high rock wall, broken down in one place to form a perfect window, through which one looked out straight into the distance,—a wide blue forest country stretching to meet Mt. Adams, whose snows were already touched to gold by the afternoon sun. The pastelle-like softness of the distant picture, so unexpected amid the rough-hewn grandeur of the setting, thrilled the fancy as with a glimpse into the world of dreams that lies beyond the horizon,—“a turn, and you stood in the heart of things.” But the step-cutting had taken so long that we could not afford to linger. Stacking our alpenstocks at the edge of the snow, we began the final rock climb to the sum- mit. There was nothing difficult about this until the 20 Sierra Club Bulletin. Unicorn itself was reached, a steep, flat-topped mass rising from fifty to seventy-five feet above the rocky, rounded backbone of the summit. Several of the best mountaineers set to work at once on an attempt to climb this horn, a task which proved unexpectedly difficult,— in fact, from the point first chosen, impossible for a single, unaided climber, except for one man, who com- bined a longer stretch of arm with more than usual strength and skill. He wormed his way up through a cleft or chimney, hands, elbows, knees, and back all working at once, and clambered out on a narrow ledge from which he could reach down a helping hand to the scramblers below, whose futile attempts to find hand- and tootholds made them look ludicrously like spiders im- prisoned under a glass trying to scale its smooth sides. It was a very tough little piece of climbing, far outclass- ing any of the rock-work encountered on Rainier. Two of the girls also decided on going to the summit of the horn, while about half of the party remained on the ridge watching their more strong-minded sisters and more agile brothers being derricked to the goal. A much easier way was later discovered, where the least-skilled climber could readily have made the ascent, but, rather to our regret afterwards, we decided that the approaching evening made it inadvisable to spend any more time on the summit, and so left without attempting it. Before the more daring climbers descended from their perch, they caught sight of a band of mountain goats, or mazamas, on the snow to the south. One ambitious photographer spent all of his resting-time on the summit in stalking the goats. There were fifteen of them, some on the snow, the rest lying on a grassy slope. Two of them allowed him to get near enough to snap their picture. The great increase of these animals since the Mazama Club outing of 1897, after which the Mt. Rainier National Park was established, forms a strong argument in favor of the proposed game refuges. Three times bands were seen this summer, and it was a common *Co6r ‘suosieg “7, “ Aq ydessojoyd uro.ryy ‘HOGIU WOW NYOOIND AAL AGNV WHINIVa “LIN ‘TA “TOA ‘NILAITNAY ANTO VUNAIS “IX ALVId The Sky-Line of the Tatoosh Range. 21 occurrence to find tufts of their soft, pale buff-colored wool clinging to the lower branches of trees on some rocky headland. | The panorama from Unicorn, in altitude an insig- nificant peak, excels that from Rainier, as there the mountain itself is so stupendously big and impressive that it flattens all its surroundings into insignificance. But on Unicorn one is set in the midst of a wilderness of craggy peaks and snowy ridges; the great cones of Adams, St. Helens, and Hood, and the almost invisible form of Jefferson bound the horizon on the south, while northward Rainier closes in your view, the whole bulk of it from the wooded meadows that stretch down to the Paradise River up to the icy crown of Columbia Crest, 14,528 feet above the sea. Our descent was uneventful, but wonderfully beauti- ful in the soft coloring of the late afternoon. A few timid attempts at snow-sliding on the part of the inex- perienced Californians furnished some amusement to those better trained in the art, and proved a welcome, if somewhat chilling, rest from the rapid downhill walking of which most of our homeward trip consisted. A “ Sky-Line Trail” is a happy one to follow. There are none of the heart-breaking descents of wearily climbed ridges, none of the restless fevers of curiosity to know what lies over the next hill that beset a cross-country walk. The country lies widespread before you on either hand, and you have the comfortable assurance right be- fore your eyes that in a day’s journey there is no more desirable crest to be found than the one on which you are standing. And when at the end of a ridge walk you find a peak difficult enough to give the whole trip the spice of adventure, an unexplored peak to give you the joy of the pioneer as well, you feel that your day on the sky-line is perhaps longest to be remembered among ail the days of the summer. 22 Sierra Club Bulletin. THE (EFFECT OF) THE, PARTIAL’ SUPPRESSION OF -ANNUAL (FOREST FIRES INU THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. By Marspen MANSON. Prior to 1849 the forests and even the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains were annually burned over by the Indians. This process effectually suppressed seed- lings, and, as it had manifestly been practiced for many generations, the forests were mainly composed of old trees, many badly burned at the butt. The scattered groves of Sequoias, with their hoary fire-scarred trunks and devoid of middle-aged and young trees, the clear floor of the Yosemite Valley, and the great forests of sugar and yellow pine, fir, spruce, red cedar, etc., with- cut seedlings or young growth abundantly attest the prevalence of this practice of annually burning off the leaves. These light fires gave open forests through which one could readily see for great distances. So impressive were these forest vistas and so ma- jestic were the great boles that poetic and impracticable natures at once accepted the Digger Indian system of forestry as unquestionably the natural and correct one. This impression has been strengthened by two facts: first, the absence of a definite knowledge of what forestry really is; secondly, by the establishment of a far worse system than that of the Digger Indian,—namely, the ruthless cutting out of the trees and burning over the areas, designedly, to give better pasture to sheep, or, accidentally, after a heavy growth of young trees had started. The writer has been familiar with the forests of the Sierra for many years and has quite recently traveled through several hundred miles of forest areas which Effect of Partial Suppression of Forest Fires. 23 were previously known to him. In these trips it was distinctly observed that where forest fires had been sup- pressed, whether the area had been cut over or not, young trees of species not previously found as young trees were beginning to find foothold. This is notably brought out in the Tuolumne grove of sequoias. Here in early visits not a single specimen except full-grown, dead, or dying trees could be found. On September Ist of the current year a young sequoia was found fifty feet to the north of the branch road which runs through the trunk of the dead giant and about one hundred and fifty feet from the forks of the road nearest Sequoia meaoeker Ss Station)! his, tree’ is)) the, lareest "of, the young trees in this grove, and has the following meas- urements: Height, 23.8 feet; circumference one foot above the ground, 2834 inches; circumference five feet above the ground, 2036 inches; spread of branches, 12.9 feet. Some one, ignorant of its species and import, had whacked off the lower branches and tied his horse to it. We carefully marked it with a ring of stones, cut out or topped all inferior trees around it, and it is hoped that putting its exact measurements at the date named wiil induce others to note from time to time its rate of growth. These measurements were made of record both at Se- quoia and with the commanding officer at Wawona. When young it takes a conical form from the ground, tapering to a fine point. Subsequently Mr. John Crocker, with Mr. C. N. Adams, of Palo Alto, and Mrs. Clark, of Oakland, found about ten smaller trees in the same grove. Observations here and in other parts of the Sierra showed vast thickets of young trees well sprinkled over with young sugar-pines. The sequoia and the sugar- pine when young are exceedingly tender and are killed by the slightest fire; other species are more resistant, and hence more abundant. The suppression of forest fires will restore these two splendid species to the Sierra, and with either clean cutting or by leaving young and seedling 24 Sierra Club Bulletin. or mother trees there will be no difficulty in preserving forever the forests of the Sierra. The Digger Indian system of forestry will not give timber as a crop; but it must give place to systematic forestry which will admit of either cutting close and reseeding with valuable timber such as sugar-pine or sequoia or both; or by cutting only mature trees, leaving growing timber and seedlings for future generations. The observations of the writer lead conclusively to the opinion that the recuperative powers of Sierra Nevada forests are so great that to preserve them only fire protection and cutting out superabundant young growth is necessary. To aid in the extension of the best species two systems should be followed: First, inferior species should be cut out before seeding, and superior species should be allowed to seed and be planted; second, in regions near the upper limits of superior species they should be syste- matically extended and aided, as all species are naturally reaching out toward higher elevations. The situation is by no means as black as it has been painted, and only requires systematic and sustained protection and aid to maintain the Sierra Nevada forever as a source of wealth beth of timber and water. SAn Francisco, October 30, 1905. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE XII. BY, FS iS s MEMORIAL TABLET FOR LE CONTE LODGE: By DoucLas TILDEN. From photograph by T. D’Estrella. In Memoriam: Joseph Le Conte. 2 ey IN MEMORIAM: JOSEPH LE CONTE. By WutLLoucHBY RODMAN. This to his memory. ’Mid the scenes he loved We raise this tribute of our greatful hearts. For here he dreamed and pondered; here he found The highest inspiration of his life. Among these rocks with reverent soul he read The lesson of the immemorial past. Here, with his head pillowed on Nature’s breast, His spirit passed into a perfect peace. When civil strife laid waste his native land, He turned his footsteps to a newer life. Too sad the memories of a ruined home, And seeming death-throes of a well-loved State. Sad—not repining, weary—not cast down, He turned his strength unto the present task. It is our pride that here he found his home, That from our State, while he abode with us, He took full measure, honor, trust, and love; And left his impress on our life and thought. For if the sacred fire of learning burns Upon our altar, by his faithful hand Its feeble flame was cherished. If our lives Show forth a nobler influence, broader views, More earnest striving toward a pure ideal, We know his soul is living in our own. As o’er Tissa-ack’s* mighty dome the sun, Not with slow dawning, as in other lands, But with a sudden splendor lights the vale, So unto him the glory of this scene Came as a revelation. From that day * Tissa-ack—Indian name of IeConte Dome, formerly known as Half Dome, or South Dome. 26 Sierra Club Bulletin, The great Sierra claimed him as her own. Here did he seek the knowledge that he loved. Not with the pedant’s trick of line and rule, Nor the dry scholar’s catalogue of facts, Came he unto his task. With lifted heart And poet’s soul, he read time’s history. He read the record of Almighty mind. He marked the progress of divine ideals From the first dream of life within the cell, Unto the perfect flower of human thought. He traced the soul from formless, thoughtless things Until it grew into consummate might ; Until it lived in lives like unto his. | Through all the varied, seeming-hopeless maze He saw one purpose working to its end. Striving for knowledge, still he looked beyond And read the deeper meaning of the world. He knew the soul of Nature. Reverently He drew the veil that guards her sacred shrine, And iooked upon her inner mysteries; And their pure radiance shone upon his face. Unto his heart the woods and mountains spake ; And if our hearts in harmony respond Unto the inspiring strains of Nature’s music, We, too, shall hear the grand Sierra’s song. THE SONG ‘OF THE SIERRA: Ye who are wearied and worn, who have sunk ’neath the weight of your burdens, Ye whose shoulders are bowed by the yoke of humanity’s service, Ye who have stood by the grave of your youth’s divine aspirations, Ye who have lost the hopes which made all the future supernal, Ye who have lost the faith which pointed you upward and onward ; In Memoriam: Joseph Le Conte. Dez Ye whose hearts are seared with the iron of anguish and sorrow, Ye whom passions have scorched till the life of the spirit has perished, ~ Ye who live, dead in your hearts—hear the song of the mighty Sierra— Come back with me, ye who wander; I will lead you again unto Nature. Come to that heart whence we sprang, to the infinite love of our mother. Far have ye wandered away from the paths which she showed at life’s dawning ; Seeking false gods have ye roamed, while her woodland shrines were deserted. The mist and the dust of the world dim your eyes to your olden ideals. Come back to the old glad life, to the hopes and the dreams of your childhood. Never again can ye know the joys of a vanished Arcadia ; Nymph and fawn are dead, and the heights of Olympus are silent. Never again will the joys of a careless and thoughtless existence, A soulless rapture and thrill in the sensuous joy of living, , Gladden your hearts as of old; for life has grown fuller and deeper ; Higher the reach of your thought, broader the scope of your vision ; Keener the pangs of the soul, but higher the flight of the spirit. Though no more ye may revel in careless delights of your childhood,— Purer joys shall you know if you turn again unto Nature. Still in her woodland temples the fires of her altars are burning ; And there may your souls renew the faith and the hope of life’s morning. 28 Sierra Club Bulletin. She biddeth you be at rest while she lulls you to sleep on her bosom With the murmuring music of streams, and the slum- ber songs of the breezes. She will bid you go forth to your task, it may be unto sorrow. She wills that you live your life, not lapse into dreaming. She wills you not always to kneel at her altar in rapt adoration ; She wills that you show in your lives, in your labor, the joys of her worship. She will not give you surcease of the labor which comes as life’s portion; But she giveth you peace and hope,—the peace of the vales and the forest, The stately calm of the summits, the hope that is born on the mountains. She giveth you will to know her inner, mystical meaning, To meet with eyes unshrinking the apocalypse of her splendor. Yielding your mood unto her, your souls are at one with Nature, Pure as the snows of the woodland, strong with the strength of the mountains. Then with joy will you go to join in life’s strenuous conflict, Glad with a new-born hope, strong with a new inspira- tion. Though you may pass into strife, though your days may be clouded by sorrow, Dream in the darkness a dream, sing in your sorrow a song. Though the journey be weary and long, though your - spirits fail in the battle, Still in your hearts shall you hear the song of the mighty Sierra. In Memoriam: Joseph Le Conte. 29 Thus did the grand Sierra speak to him; -\nd thrilling chords of that inspiring song Sound in the message which he gave the world. But not in poet’s dreams his force was spent ; He lived the life of science. To his mind Life was one earnest, ceaseless quest for truth. He looked across our close horizon’s rim And sought to pierce the infinite beyond. He followed truth untaltering, pausing not If some great thought led him beyond the bounds Set for our feet by narrow faith or creed. Breaking the shackles by convention wrought, He lived the free, true life of intellect; One of the fearless few who dared to know. Since thought’s first dawn a few unconquered souls, Braving the bigot’s wrath, have stood for truth; And on the lonely watch-towers of the world Died, waiting for a day that never dawned. Forever in the vanguard of the right, Their onset broke the phalanx of the wrong. The rack and stake but mark the battle-fields Where error sought to check their bold advance. Martyrs and heretics, despised and scorned, Their death-fires light the beacons of the world. Not in their time their victory ; now they stand Star-crowned above our level, on their brows The glorious dawning of a grander day. And he whose memory we consecrate Was one of these. With deep, far gaze He saw, through mists of error, God’s own truth. Unto his memory we dedicate The labor of our love. Long may it stand, Our humble tribute to a noble life. Unto our brotherhood this place shall be Forever sacred. Let us enter here With heart and mind solemn and reverent, Responsive to the spirit of the place. For this is the high temple of our creed; 30 Sierra Club Bulletin. The creed of those who seek to know the truth, Who seek it where its lessons are inscribed Upon the deathless pages of the rocks, Or told in thrilling whispers of the trees, Or sung by murmuring ripples of the stream, Or where in grander harmonies resounds The diapason of the cataract. And let us hope, that, waiting by our shrine, His spirit shall lead us, bidding us be true, True to the love of Nature, true to truth. If to our hearts the love of Nature brings The revelation of her higher law, Her deeper meaning; if we honor those Who knelt at Nature’s shrine, who lived for truth, This is the center of our dreams and hopes ;— Yea, this is holy ground Made holy by the thought that ’mid such scenes The noblest aspirations of the soul, In passionate longing for the beautiful, Rise to the Infinite, and by the thought Of him whose memory we here enshrine, The memory of one who sought the truth, Of one who loved the beautiful and good, Whose life was gentle, beautiful, and true. In loving memory of his life and work, With reverence for the soul with which he wrought,—— To noble uses, to the love of truth, To love of nature, to our brotherhood, We dedicate this temple in his name. His life was Nature’s; at its close his soul Entered the rest she keepeth for her own. Now to his wakened mind the gathered lore of the ages Seemeth a single page of the luminous volume of time, Now to his lifted spirit the song of the mighty Sierra Blendeth with Nature’s anthem in harmony thrill- ing, sublime. In Memoriam: Joseph Le Conte. 31 That which we seek in our blindness, yearning with im- potent passion, Wandering guideless, alone, in the depth of an in- finite night, Ts revealed to him illumed with the glorious splendor of noonday,— Finding his life’s ideal, he cometh into the light. Now are his dreams come true; all the tireless watching and striving Blend in a perfect peace, in the rest of a task well done; Long had he labored and waited, seeking one goal in the distance, Now he knoweth the truth ; now is life’s victory won. 32 Sierra Club Bulletin, WILD ANIMALS OF THE MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK.* By ALDEN SAMPSON. The presence of wild animals greatly adds to the pleasure of those who visit the Mt. Rainier Nationa! Park. Fortunately, it is not yet too late to preserve this feature of interest; in the future it may be made a still greater source of delight. White goats (mazgamas) are found in abundance high up among the ice and snow on rocky ridges, and during the heat of the day on the glaciers, where, after feeding, they seek asylum from their enemies. Here the breeze is always fresh and agree- able; by its aid they are rid of the pest of flies which at a lower altitude are an intense annoyance. During the ascent of Mt. Rainier made by the Sierra Club we were so fortunate as to see about fifteen goats at some little distance across the ice, on the ridges above the Nisqually Glacier, and previous to this members of the party at various times had secured photographs of these interesting animals at close range. When stalked from above, it is not difficult to approach close enough to them for the purposes of photography, as they range high up on the mountain, and are but rarely disturbed by human visitors. Their presence contributes much to the interest of the upper reaches of the mountains, which except for them would be almost without animal life. There are no elk on the flanks of Mt. Rainier. We were told of the presence of a few still to be found in the Tatoosh Range to the south, and on Goat Mountain, both close to the southern limits of the park. The question of a winter range for these animals, in case they were estab- * This article is part of the report of the Joint Committee on pages 44-50. Wild Animals of Mt. Rainier National Park. 33 lished here, is one that would have to be carefully studied. No tract obviously suited to that purpose was noted by us. Should such exist, elk could be brought from the Olympic Forest Reserve to form the nucleus of a herd here. There are now in the Olympics 2,500 or 3,000 elk of the Cervus occidentalis, or Roosevelti, almost the sole survivors of the vast bands which once ranged on the Pacific Coast. Were an attempt made to bring to Mt. Rainier individuals of the Olympic herd, it would probably be necessary, in order to accomplish their transfer without injury and to retain control of them afterwards, to hold them first seg- regated for several months under constant supervision and care,-and thus partially domesticate them, before attempting to accomplish such removal to their new home. It is not, however, believed that the conditions are favor- able for their presence here. Mountain sheep, while they range on the east side of the Cascades, are not found in the park, and there is no sign of their formerly having been there; probably the winter range is not such as they would accept. These creatures do not dislike a wooded range such as may be found in an open forest where grass abounds, as so often is the case in the Rocky Mountains and southern Sierra; but it is to be noted as a characteristic of large tracts of the Washington woods, and particularly of those around Mt. Rainier, that grass is rarely found except immedi- ately below the glaciers and in the valleys in that vicinity. While the ground in the forest is covered with a solid mass of verdure, a tantalizing sight to the hungry horses of the traveler there, unfortunately for them it mainly consists of a feathery moss, or of the scanty “browse” of bushes, or of slight herbage not acceptable to the palates of horses, elk, or mountain sheep. Deer are found in considerable abundance, and are still killed to some extent, regardless of law. The writer saw On One excursion a string of a dozen or fifteen dead- falls which had been baited with deer-meat and set for marten two winters previously. In one of these traps 34 Sierra Club Bulletin. was a doe’s skull, which told its story. As the number of competent rangers is increased, the practice of killing deer for meat will be discountenanced, and a sentiment created which, as in the vicinity of the Yellowstone Na- tional Park, will prove the real safeguard of the wild animals. Numbers of deer were seen by our party. The conditions are favorable for their increase. Only a few bears survive of the many that were once found in this region. In Spray Park, to the north of the peak, one of the black variety with two cubs was ob- served. Cinnamon bears are occasionally seen, but the grizzly bear is now extinct in this whole region. Berries of many sorts abound, and various roots and herbs are found on which bears can subsist at all seasons of the year when not in hibernation. This food is scattered enough to give the beasts all the exercise they need to maintain health. These animals are perfectly harmless so far as man is concerned, and a sight of them in their wild state is of no slight interest. The few remaining specimens — should not be disturbed. The three seen on our excursion were gathering huckleberries on a hillside, and were under observation for perhaps an hour, the mother eagerly sat- isfying her hunger, and the young making repeated excursions of exploration, from which each time they returned in a panic of apprehension, until they had con- vinced themselves by actual touch that their friend and sheltering providence was still there. A more engaging spectacle of diligence and of content tempered with vigi- lance it would not be easy to find. The wolverine, carcajou, great American sloth, or skunk-bear, as from his shaggy back and tail he is some- times discriminatingly called,* a beast equally rare and equally hateful, is occasionally seen within the bounds of the park. Probably for many years to come this animal will continue at remote intervals to enter within the pre- cincts of the park. *It is to be noted that when the ‘‘ Wolverine State’’ was so called, the desig- nation was bestowed by the inhabitants of a neighboring State, and was not given in affection. Wild Animals of Mt. Raimer National Park. 35 There are a considerable number of cougar, more gen- erally called mountain lions, once universally known as panthers, and these, so far as the interests of man are involved, are perhaps somewhat of an evil. They doubt- less kill young deer, particularly in the winter, when the latter are at their mercy. If elk were established here, or in this vicinity, care should be taken that the number of the cougar be not allowed indefinitely to increase. In the Olympics they are a source of annoyance. In regard to the timber-wolves nearly the same might be said. Individually, they are of interest to man, as creatures of great power, courage, and sagacity, and for this reason one would naturally be reluctant to see them exterminated. The view of a fine timber-wolf seen one morning through a rift in the fog, on the slope of a moun- tain ridge, in the Olympic Reserve in 1903, was the source of great satisfaction, and one of the most agreeable recol- lections to the fortunate beholder. There are a considerable number of coyotes, and their call at night, as thrilling and exhilarating a sound when heard in the forest as ever greets the ear of the moun- taineer, is always a keen satisfaction to one who loves the wild life. The musical chorus of the coyotes at night- fall and the scream of the loon are two sounds of un- subdued nature to be stored away in memory among one’s choicest recollections, like the booming of a frozen lake at night, or the “swish” and crackle of the northern lights in a winter sky. It is unwise to exterminate the last representatives of any tribe. So long as rabbits abound the woods will be wide enough for representatives of all the animal king- dom in our part of the world, even if eaters of meat like ourselves. The methods of nature may be trusted to a very considerable extent to maintain an equilibrium. The less man attempts to regulate the whole created universe, the greater in the end will be the sum total of happiness for him and for all concerned. Of other fur-bearing animals, a few beaver still sur- BOs Sierra Club Bulletin. vive, but their presence and haunts are known to hunters, and it is doubtful if they will much longer continue to wear their coveted hides. Where they are found, their houses and dams are always of great interest to the intel- ligent traveler, but this has practically long ceased to be the case in the Mt. Rainier National Park. Fisher, marten, and otter, and several varieties of weasel are occasionally found, also the civet-cat and the lynx. Only a rare glimpse will ever be had of these creatures in their wild state, but such a view is to be prized in exact proportion to its infrequency. Two. varieties of skunk are found at a lower altitude, but perhaps these do not penetrate into the park proper. Their presence may well be spared here. A gray fox is found on the mountain, and several varieties of mice, which doubtless are of interest to him. A chipmunk lives here, the Douglas squirrel, the ground-squirrel, and wood-rat,—this last the hero of many a story of misap- propriation and of strained relations between the occu- pants of cabins in forest or prairie. Rabbits are found, and the very interesting pika, or cony, who lives among the broken rocks at an altitude corresponding to the lower glacier belt and somewhat higher still; his cry as he sits at the entrance of his hole is always agreeable to the ear, and the glimpse that one gets of him as he scurries to cover is a pleasant little picture to recall) tleramd the whistling marmot are generally found sharing the same sort of conditions, and this has resulted in a sort of similarity of habit. This little hare is of especial inter- est as having a call not unlike the bleating of a lamb, a curious and distinguishing circumstance for a representa- tive of this silent clan. His designation as the “little chief hare” is a well-inspired appellation. Although the small- est of his tribe, he seems to have an individuality and eee that there is a passage in the Bible referring to a totally different animal (the Hebrew shaphan) which, as translated, exactly and literally applies to this one: ‘‘ There be four things which are little upon the earth, but they are exceeding wise. . . . The conies are but a feeble folk, yet make they their houses in the rocks.’’— Proverds xxx, 24-26. Wild Animals of Mt. Ramer National Park. 37 sort of fearlessness quite his own. He differs from the generality of the rabbit tribe not only in uttering a fre- quent call, which seems but to emphasize the silence of the hills, but in the fact that he gathers his food and eats it at the entrance of his den, whether it be sprigs of succulent herbs, or flowers agreeable to his palate, or clusters of berries. He resembles in this respect the two characteristic mountain denizens next to be men- tioned, the whistling marmot and the haplodon. The former of these closely resembles the Eastern woodchuck, except that he is more powerful and has a well-known cry, which he is fond of uttering, a very sharp and pierc- ing whistle. In the upper grassy valleys about Mt. Rainier great numbers of these creatures abound, and where they have not been shot at are often seen. The remote valleys and barren ridges around the peak would be deprived of one great charm were the alert and shrill challenge of their guardians no longer to be heard. They are fond of taking their station on the most prominent rock of a slide, or on a projecting boulder along a ridge where the whole hillside or valley may be commanded, and on this lookout rock the greater portion of their time during the day is spent, basking in the sun when that shines, and ever maintaining a shrewd observation of all that goes on around them. In many cases the sur- face of their lookout rock has become quite polished from its use by many succeeding generations of watchers. St. Simeon Stylites was hardly more constant. Unfortunately for their peace of mind, the discovery has been made that marmot stew is good to eat. As the park is more scrupulously guarded these animals will be protected, and it is to be hoped will long remain a source of pleasure to the traveler. One sees the burrows of the haplodon, or sewellei, all around the mountain, particularly in the vicinity of the meadows near the sources of the glacier rivers. These little beasts are about the size of a muskrat, and are most entertaining in the slight and indirect glimpses which 38 Sierra Club Bulletin. they afford us of their personality ; glimpses of their per- sonality but not of their persons. Unfortunately, they are excessively shy, the most so of any animal in America, and although one sees day after day, both here and in the Olympics and Cascades and in similar country over a wide range, their innumerable burrows, and the little supply of fresh herbage at the entrance to their homes, yet is the casual spectator never vouchsafed a sight of these elusive creatures. Their soft fur, and it may be their extreme industry in the excavation of subterranean runways, has given them the name of “mountain beavers.” It is a mooted point whether they make a winter cache _ of provisions ; arguments on both sides are adduced. One repeatedly sees at their burrows food in various stages of dessication, perhaps the refuse of their daily supply. The study of their habits by intelligent observers is strongly to be commended. Among the birds, the ptarmigan is especially worthy of mention. These are in various places quite abundant and tame. A member of the party secured at the mini- mum range of his camera, which is seven feet, three photo- eraphs of a little group of these interesting birds, and their closer protection is greatly to be desired. Ptarmigan are so easy to kill that notices should be put up where they abound, cautioning tourists against molest- ing them and enlisting the co-operation of all to this end. In this brief review of the animals of the park, which makes no claim to scientific exhaustiveness, sufficient has, perhaps, been said to suggest how great an element of interest the wild creatures contribute. The portion of the- community which is interested in the study of them is a constantly increasing one, and every year more and more people will share in the satisfaction derived from an inti- macy with nature, and from somewhat of familiarity with the occupants of the woods and with the wild dwellers on the mountain-side. As a matter of course, citizens of our commonwealth will look to see that taste gratified in a national park. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE XiIi. SIERRAN PUFFBALL. photograph by the Author. The Sierran Puffball. 39 THE SIERRAN PUFFBALL. By WILttAM ALBERT SETCHELL. When the members of the Sierra Club scatter them- selves among the high mountains for the purposes of relaxation and promoting our knowledge of these snowy peaks and ranges, will some of them pause a moment on their various and devious ways to make a note on meeting one of the humbler and less well-known abo- rigines, yet one which is a noble of high rank in its own class? The aborigine I have in mind is the Sierran Puff- ball, which, while not by any means the largest of ail known puffballs, yet is of fair size, and by its elaborate markings one of the most decorative. No other puffball known has so striking and so elaborate a set of sculp- turings on its outer coat. The Sierran Puffbali was first made known to the botanical public in 1885 by Dr. H. W. Harkness, and named by him Lycoperdon sculptum. Dr. Harkness told me that the original specimen came from the eastern slope of the Sierra, but he seemed uncertain of the exact locality. In all probability, it came from some locality not far from the region of Lake Tahoe. It is quite certain that it has never been seen except in fairly high altitudes of the Sierra, and, consequently, it seems en- titled to the English name which I have placed at the head of these notes on it. The Sierran Puffball is an easily recognized species. It is six to eight inches long, four to five inches high, and four to six inches broad. Its general shape is that of a broad, flattened pear, for below the swollen upper portion above the ground it has a thick but short stalklike base which is situated below the surface of the ground on which it grows. When entire, the upper rounded portion Se. Re Cee ee ee ee Ree te neta wee” eR ee 40 Sierra Club Bullet. is marked on the surface by broad pyramidal projections, which are often an inch in diameter at the base and half to three quarters of an inch high in the larger mature specimens. The projections are regularly arranged and give the dorsal side of the puffball the appearance of the back of a tortoise. It is this peculiarity, connected with the large size, which makes this puffball so readily recog- nized. No one can possibly make a mistake in regard to its identity. All other large puffballs are either absolutely smooth on the upper surface or else marked with minute projections. The projections, then, on the surface of the Sierran Puffball are gigantic, especially when young. Later they often split into three or four, remaining at- tached by their tips, which also often become curved. At maturity, the whole puffball becomes dry, the in- terior being filled with a bright yellow, powdery mass of spores and microscopic threads, while the thick outer covering breaks up into pieces and falls off. In this way the spores are exposed to the winds, which scatter them, and thus spread the growths of puffballs. Finally all the upper portion disappears, and nothing is left but the stout stalk, more or less buried in the ground, and some fragments of the upper portion and some traces of - the powdery spores. Two of these latter stages are repre- sented, about one quarter the natural size, in the photo- graph accompanying these notes. Like all other puffballs, and in fact like all other fleshy fungi, this one is seldom entirely free from insects, which find shelter and food within its tissues, thus spoiling the plants for good botanical specimens, and even hinder- ing the proper maturing of the spores. Small specimens are often found which from this or some similar cause have been killed early in their development, and, while not showing the effects of the ravages externally, have become mummified, or dried up. Such specimens show the general characteristics well, but do not show the important spore characters. Two such specimens are represented in the lower right-hand corner of the photo- The Sierran Putt ball. 4I graph. They show the sculpturing of the surface very well. Owing to the scarcity of the Sierran Puffball, i do not suppose that any one has had the opportunity to try its flavor when cooked. The specimens I found were mature, and so dry and dusty that eating was out of the question ; but should any be found in the stages when the interior is solid and white, it would be well to try it, sparingly at first, either cut into slices, salted, and fried, or stewed with beef broth, for the flesh of the large puffballs is delicious in its flavor, and none of them are known to be poisonous. Our large species of the neighborhood of San Francisco are much appreciated by the epicures. Very little is known as yet of the extent of the Sierran country inhabited by this puffball, and it is desirable that much more information should be obtained. Dr. Hark- ness, as indicated above, does not give any information as to the exact locality whence he received his specimens, but contents himself with saying that the species “is found only at considerable elevations, 6,000 to 8,000 feet, in the Sierra Nevadas.” Of the several specimens preserved in his collections at the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco, only one has the locality marked. That one came from Summit, in Placer County, whence a speci- men, collected by Mrs. Charles H. Shinn, is among the plants of the herbarium of the University of California. We have also in this herbarium specimens gathered at Sierra Valley and between that place and Truckee, col- fected "by, Wir.» Fowler. -\W. C. Blasdale has’ collected the Sierran puffball in the neighborhood of Lake Tahoe, and I have specimens taken by myself from a considerable number of fine large plants seen in the neighborhood of Emerald Bay on Lake Tahoe. The photograph repre- sents some of these specimens. From farther south, we have a specimen collected at Tamarack Flat, on the Big Oak Flat road into the Yosemite Valley, by H. N. Bag- ley; and the late Professor J. J. B. Argenti described to en Nr ee ie er i : i 42 Sierra Club Bulletin. me puffballs seen by him at Crane Flat which certainly must have belonged to this species. As will be seen, the sum of all our knowledge is small, and it is hoped that much more information may be obtained of its occurrence in the Sierras, both north and south, both as to higher and lower altitudes. The plant is so readily recognized that there is little danger of mistake, but if localities can be reported, accompanied by small specimens, or even by one or two pieces of the upper crust with the pyramidal elevations which are so characteristic, all doubts will be removed., It is "xox the purpose of enlisting the interest and sympathies of the members of the Sierra Club in the attempt to gain this more extensive and exhaustive knowledge that these notes have been written. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. PUBLISHED IN JANUARY AND JUNE OF EACH YEAR. Published for Members. if Annual Dues, $3.00. The purposes of the Club ave :—‘‘ To explore, enjoy, and render accessible the mountain regions of the Pacific Coast; to publish authentic information concerning them, to enlist the support and co-operation of the people and the Government in preserving the for- ests and other natural features of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.” ORGANIZATION FOR THE YEAR 1905-1906. Board of Directors. PiePORUN NUR: (MArtAeZ a ile CO hla gue SG (iar) 4 he President Prof. A. G. McApre (Mills Building, S. F.)... . . Vice-President Prat joNo be CONTE (Berkeley). 33).0)5)04) 6.4: Hep Miu MEASULET Mr. WiLiiAm E. Covsy (Mills Building, S. F.). . . . . Secretary Prof. GEORGE DAVIDSON (2221 Washington St., S. F.). Prof. W. R. DuDLEy (Stanford University). Mr. J. S. HuTcHINSON, Jr. (Claus Spreckels Bldg., S. F.). Mr. WARREN OLNEY (tor Sansome Street, S. F.). Mr. EpwArD T. Parsons (University Club, S. F.). Honorary Vice-Presidents. Prof. GEORGE DAvipDsON, San Francisco. Mr. R. U. Jounson (The Century), New York. Pres. DAVID STARR JORDAN (Stanford University). Mr. GirrorD PINCHOT (Washington, D. C.). Committee on Publications. Mr. Etytrorr MCALLISTER (Union Trust Building, S. F.). . Haztor Prof. WILLIAM FREDERIC BADE (Berkeley) . . Book Reviews Prof. Wm. R. DupLEy (Stanford University). . Forestry Notes Mr. ALEX. G. EELLS (Crocker Building, S. F.). Mr. J. S. HUTCHINSON, JR. (Claus Spreckels Building, S. F.). Mr. EpwarD IT’. PARSONS (University Club, S. F.). Prof. H. W. Ro.LFes (Stanford University). Mr. WILLOUGHBY RopMAN (Bryson Block, Los Angeles). Miss F. B. WHITTIER (Mechanics’ Library, S. F.). Auditing Committee — Directors McApIz, HUTCHINSON, and DUDLEY. Outing Commitiee— Mr. Wn. E. Cosy (Chairman), Mr. J. N. LE ConrTsE, Mr. Epwarp T. PARSONS. Committee on Local Walks —Mr. E. G. Knapp (Chairman), Mr. Jutius Caun, Mr. Geo. M. Cumminc, Miss MARIAN RANDALL, Mr. R. S. Topritz. Le Conte Memorial Lodge Committee — Mr. E. T. Parsons (Chairman), Mr. WM. E. Cosy, Prof. J. N. Le Conte. Librarian — Miss ANITA GOMPERTZ. 44 Sierra Club Bulletin. REPORTS. REPORT OF THE JOINT COMMITTEE OF THE MAZAMA CLUB AND THE SIERRA CLUB ON THE MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK. To the President of the Umted States, and The Secretary of the Interior: At a meeting held during the Joint Outing of The Mazama Club and The Sierra Club in July, 1905, in Paradise Park, of the Mt. Rainier National Park, at which meeting were present also representatives of the American Alpine Club, and the Appalachian Mountain Club, a resolution was unanimously adopted to appoint a committee representing those present from the membership of these organizations, to report to the President of the United States, and to the Secretary of the Interior, on the present con- dition of this National Park, and to recommend such action for its betterment as might appear desirable. The following committee was appointed: Chas. E. Fay, of American Alpine Club; W. A. Brooks, of Appalachian Mountain Club; E. P. Sheldon, of Mazama Club; E. T. Parsons, Chairman, of Sierra Club. To this committee was added Alden Samson, recently Game Preserve Expert of the United States Biological Survey, who was present during the encampment, and who made an investi- gating tour and complete circuit about the mountain. These committee-men have prepared the following report, and herewith beg leave to submit it to your consideration as a dis= interested expression of the views and recommendations of nature-lovers and mountaineers. Very respectfully, Cuas. E. Fay, W. A. Brooks, E. P. SHELDON, ALDEN SAMPSON, E. T. Parsons, Chairman. ATTRACTIVENESS OF MrT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK TO THE AVERAGE CITIZEN. It was a wise provision that set aside the Mt. Rainier Na- tional Park as a perpetual reservation for the enjoyment and benefit of the citizens of our common country, and every care Reports. 45 should be taken to preserve it in its native attractiveness for the generations to come. Such was the unanimous opinion of the large and distinguished body of men and women, representing in their number no less than twenty-two American colleges and universities, in conformity with whose will the Committee mak- ing the present report owes its existence. Though the observations of the majority of the members of the Committee were confined to the southerly portion of the reserve and principally to the district known as Paradise Park, it is felt that, in general, what is true here applies with equal force to all sections of the great reservation. Because of its comparative accessibility to the large cities of Oregon and Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park, and Para- dise Park in particular, is destined to become in future years a pleasure-ground for thousands of people, as the Adirondacks and the White Mountains are for the inhabitants of Eastern States. Situated just below the snow-line on Mt. Rainier, the grandeur and beauty of the region are unsurpassed. The lower slopes are covered with grand forests, which give way at higher alti- tudes to the open park country where the valleys and hillsides are carpeted with green sward spangled with myriads of wild flowers, and ornamented with clumps and groves of sub-alpine firs and spruces, the hardy mountaineers of the botanical world. The vegetation extends up the mountain to nearly six thou- sand feet, above which is the zone of snow and ice whose eternal whiteness makes Rainier a landmark for the traveler and a beacon for the sailor while they are yet scores of miles away. Rising west of the Cascade Divide and within sight of the Pacific Ocean, where the landward breezes distribute an enor- mous snow- and rainfall during six months of the year, Mt. Rainier has a great glacier system outranking in this respect as it does in height any mountain in North America outside of Alaska. Its area of glaciers and perpetual snow cover 32,500 acres, and it rises in magnificent outlines to a height of 14,528 feet above sea-level. Within the limits of Paradise Park one of the largest glaciers, the Nisqually, presses down below timber-line in the park, discharging into the river of the same name. Two others, the Paradise and the Cowlitz, are also within walking distance. On the opposite side of the valley from Mt. Rainier, across the Paradise River, rise the sharp, rugged peaks of the Tatoosh Range, beyond whose serrated sky-line from high points within the park may be seen Adams, St. Helens, Hood, and other snow peaks. 46 Sierra Club Bulletin. To the scientist, whether he be botanist, geologist, or zoolo- gist; to the artist in search of grand subjects for his canvas; to the camper who loves to pitch his tent where he may listen to the music of falling water and fill his lungs with the pure breath of the hills; to the mountain-climber seeking heights worthy of his ambition; or to the tired business man whose weary brain de- mands rest away from the busy routine of mercantile life, Para- dise Park is happily named. The diversity of the landscape, the solemnity of the silent forests, the prodigality and wonderful coloring of the floral display, the foaming water of the streams that rush down the valleys and plunge over the cliffs in many picturesque falls, with the mighty white dome of Rainier towering majestically over all and clasping with the icy fingers of its glaciers the green slopes below, all combine to make this mountain park a region of irresistible charm. CoMPARISON OF MrT. RAIntER NATIONAL PARK WITH OTHER GREAT Scenic REGIONS. This appreciation is not confined to persons of our own nation- ality or race. Foreign world-travelers, lovers of the grandly picturesque, unite in highest admiration of the Rainier region. Hon. James Bryce, the well-known publicist and a member of the English Alpine Club, and Professor Karl Zittel, of Munich, a geologist familiar with all the aspects of Europe, several years ago, in a joint letter suggesting in advance of National action that the Mt. Rainier region should be reserved as a national park, wrote as follows :— “The scenery of Mount Rainier is of rare and varied beauty. The peak itself is as noble a mountain as we have ever seen in its lines and structure. The glaciers which descend from its snow-fields present all the characteristic features of those in the Alps, and though less extensive than the ice-streams of the Mont Blanc or Monte Rosa groups, are in their crevasses and seracs equally striking and equally worthy of close study. We have seen nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees than the Carbon River glacier and the great Puyallup glaciers; indeed, the ice in the latter is unusually pure and the crevasses unusually fine. The combination of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest type is to be found no- where in the Old World, unless it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know, nowhere else on the American Continent. .. .” DESTRUCTION OF FoREST GROWTH, WITH RECOMMENDATION FOR INVESTIGATION. Our Committee has few recommendations to present as to means to be taken to conserve the existing natural features. As an example of what might be done to prevent a deterioration in Reports. 47 the sylvan beauty of the park the following seems worthy of mention :— y The growth of the sub-alpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa) and alpine hemlock (Tsuga Mertensiana) around Mt. Rainier, which forms the extreme limit of tree-growth, is dying rapidly. Besides being objects of beauty these trees have a second very practical value as a means of conserving the water supply by retarding the melting snow in the spring and summer months. So far as a cursory observation would permit, it is evident that the cause of the death of these trees is not fire, but is either a fungus or an insect disease, or both. It is therefore recom- mended that the United States Department of Agriculture send an expert to the park to determine definitely the cause of the death of this valuable timber, and take measures to prevent future damage, if possible. RoADS AND TRAILS. Too much emphasis cannot be placed on the importance of the means of access to the various regions of this great park with their varied features of interest, and in particular on the desirability of a carefully considered system of roads and trails connecting these regions with each other. It is earnestly advocated that the Government road, so finely planned and located, from the mineral springs of the Nisqually (locally called “Longmire’s Springs”) to the upper reaches of Paradise Park, be completed at the very earliest possible date. By it visitors could reach the park in their own conveyances without the expense, inconvenience, and annoyance of packing their outfits and supplies, which now deters many from enjoying this magnificent region. Paradise Park on the southerly slope of the great mountain is at present the one readily accessible region of this great reserva- tion, and there are only two passable trails by which to reach it. The “old trail’ from the unfinished Government road up the north side of the Nisqually River is in good condition, and passes up a beautiful scenic cafion through wooded flats beside the toss- ing river until the terminal face of the Nisqually Glacier is reached. From this point pedestrians can ascend the steep sides of the cafion to the park proper. This trail well serves the public as it is, and will do so until the fine Government road replaces it. In addition to this “old trail’ is the one used at present chiefly to reach Paradise Park, which leaves the Govern- ment road near the end of the partly completed four-mile stretch, and, crossing the Nisqually once and the Paradise River twice, enters the park near Camp of the Clouds. 48 Sierra Club Bulletin. In 1897 there used to be a good trail branching off from this trail just before the second crossing of the Paradise River, above Narada Falls, and leading up the side and along the crest of Mazama Ridge, one of the most striking scenic view-points in the park, to a point just above Sluiskin Falls. This trail, ending at a fine camping-spot on high ground near four or five small lakes, has been allowed to get into bad condition. It should be put in good repair, and this could be done with very little labor. A trail should early be constructed to Indian Henry’s hunting- grounds from the north side of the Nisqually Glacier in Paradise Park. This at first might be for pedestrians only, later to be perfected for saddle- and pack-horses. The two trails suggested—that from Paradise River to the head of Mazama Ridge near Sluiskin Falls, and the one from the Nisqually Glacier to Indian Henry’s hunting-grounds—might be the first of a system to circuit the mountain, and when con- structed would render accessible the finest portions of the Mt. Rainier National Park adjacent to the approach by way of Ashford and the valley of the Nisqually River. As bearing on the development of a system of roads and trails making the entire circuit of Mt. Rainier, we incorporate with our report the following testimony of a member of our Committee well versed in woodcraft and most competent to speak upon this subject. Mr. Alden Sampson writes as follows :— “With another member of our party this summer I made the circuit of the peak. We traveled with pack-animals and made our journey in a leisurely way, stopping as the view tempted us, or where feed, not a too frequent circumstance, was to be found. We left Longmire’s Springs after the departure of the Sierra Club from that encampment, and went by the way of Bear Prairie down the Skate Creek Trail, being obliged in one afternoon to ford that stream, a rocky and at times (for horses) somewhat disagreeable river-bed, no less than thirty-eight times. At present the alleged trail is but a poor affair, shifting about from bank to bank of the stream wherever foothold offers; in one section, on a steep hillside, it can hardly be called a trail at all, being quite impassable for laden pack-animals coming from the Cowlitz River. A trail laid out intelligently here in conform- ity with the broad characteristics of the valley is much to be desired. “Following up the Cowlitz River we forded at the mouth of Muddy Fork, followed up the Carlton Trail to Fish Lake at the summit, thence along the crest of the Cascades by the old Klikitat Trail, which commands superb views of Mt. Rainier from the east, the finest of all views to be obtained of that mountain. From the mining settlement of Gold Hill we continued our course through Bear Gap, down Silver Creek to the East Fork of White River, and up that to Glacier Basin, thence around the lower end of the Winthrop Glacier, and around the Carbon Glacier. Look- ing up from the trail across the moraine here, we could see the edge of Spray Park above us, only two or three miles distant, yet Reports. 49 to reach it we were destined to travel nearly, if not quite, forty miles, descending the Carbon River to Fairfax, and thence ascending the Mowich River Trail to the lake below the park, where we left our horses. Going through Kapousen on our re- turn, we completed the circuit of the peak, an excursion which had afforded many and assorted experiences of discomfort soon to be forgotten and of delight to be long treasured.” It is obvious that this strikingly fine excursion should be ren- dered feasible for all who would enjoy the park in a large way. At present there are no trails by which the twelve or twenty glaciers, according as great or lesser bodies of ice are enumerated, may be visited in succession. In order to reach them long round- about journeys have to be taken through the woods, where there is no feed for horses, and forced marches are often required to arrive at places suitable for the stock at night, and in some in- stances grain must be carried for their sustenance, since in the woods there is too often nothing whatever for horses to eat. Trails should be opened from one glacier to another, and permits granted to the proper persons to provide houses of entertainment at suitable places for travelers. At present accommodation of this sort is offered at Reese’s Camp in Paradise Park only. The glaciers are of commanding interest, and are destined within a few years to be visited by great numbers of people from all over the country. Trails opening these to view could easily be constructed at a tithe of the cost of the Government road from Longmire’s Springs to Paradise Park. Trails of this nature would give views of mountain scenery unique in this country to such as are not afraid of an excursion in the saddle, and would be a boon to travelers greatly to be desired. In laying out such trails advantage would naturally be taken of the meadows which are found in many places near the foot of the glaciers, so that proper feed would be afforded to stock. By the creation of these trails the great opportunity for the en- joyment of scenery on this grandest of American mountains would be for the first time placed within the reach of all. PRIVATE HoLDINGS IN THE PARK. There are few private holdings in the park—but one to the knowledge of the Committee. This one, however, contains the fine mineral springs near the Nisqually River. This holding or claim should be extinguished at the earliest possible date by purchase or condemnation proceedings and a good hotel erected here, either by the Government or by such lessee as would provide adequate and suitable accommodations for the public. This claim and its crude betterments, if bought at a fair compensation, would cost but little, and thus could the way be opened for proper treat- 50 Sierra Club Bulletin. ment of this gateway to the finest scenic regions of this grand National Park. WiLtp ANIMALS IN THE PARK. [This article is of such general interest that it has been given a place amongst the principal articles of this number. ] REPORT OF OUTING COMMITTEE. The Outing of 1905 to Paradise Park and Mt. Rainier in the State of Washington was one of the most memorable outings ever undertaken by the Club. The Sierra Club party numbered ap- proximately one hundred persons, of whom twenty-five were guests from the Appalachian Mountain Club of Boston and the remaining seventy-five members of the Sierra Club. The Mazama Club also had a party of some seventy-five or eighty persons in the park at the same time. This meeting of so many representatives of the four mountaineering clubs of America (for many of the members of the three clubs above named were also members of the American Alpine Club) was a noteworthy event which will probably not occur again for many years. The Sierra Club party visited the Lewis and Clark Exposi- tion in Portland prior to the main trip and were royally enter- tained by the Mazama Club. A trip to Mt. Hood, which was climbed by about sixty members of the party, and an all-day excursion on the Columbia River were pleasant diversions dur- ing their stay in Portland. Paradise Park proved to be a wonderful camping-ground, with its alpine meadow-land abloom with myriads of flowers, guarded by sentinel fir and spiny hemlock, enlivened by stream and waterfall, and embraced in the giant arms of the grinding glaciers which extend down on each side of the Park from the towering ermine-robed mass of Mt. Rainier. Warned by the fatalities of the past that had occurred on this mountain, its climb was undertaken by the Sierra Club party of sixty persons (one fourth of whom were women) with every precaution to guard against accident. The climb to the summit from Camp Muir certainly established a record for so large a party, which arrived on top about 9:30 A. M., having ascended almost 5,0c0 feet in altitude in five hours. Though the climb for a portion of the distance was made over very steep and dangerous ice-slopes, necessitating the cutting of steps, yet no accident of even a trivial nature occurred. Several hours were spent on the rim of the crater, and the descent to the main camp was made in time for a 6:30 dinner. Mr. Parsons, of our com- Reports. 51 mittee, had previously made the ascent, and it was largely due to his able guidance and generalship that the outcome of the club ascent was so happy. The provision of two Khotal stoves at Camp Muir, which enabled the party to have hot food, tea, and soup for supper and breakfast there, doubtless added to the ease with which the trip was made. Forty members of the Mazama party made the ascent on the day following without accident, so that 1905 will probably long remain a record year for Rainier as far as numbers are concerned. An excursion on Puget Sound was made on the return to California. About thirty enthusiastic members stopped over at Sissons and climbed Mt. Shasta, most of them having already climbed Hood and Rainier—certainly a record of which they may justly be proud, to have conquered the three principal snow-capped peaks on the coast in one season. Though this Outing took place so far from the Club’s head- quarters, and the cost of transporting the equipment and the expenses of the cooks and assistants for so long a trip amounted to several hundred dollars more than the Club had paid on past Outings, yet it was a financial success, and a sufficient balance remains in the treasury with which to meet the preliminary expense of preparing for the 1906 Outing. This Outing will be made to King’s River Cafion with side trips to Bullfrog Lake and Tehipite Valley. In a year or two a wagon-road will have been constructed into the cafion, and it is to give our members another opportunity of visiting this won- derful region in its unaltered condition that this trip has been planned. It is encouraging to note that there are more applica- tions for this Outing on file than ever before at this time. The Outing announcement accompanies this BULLETIN. Wm. E. Corsy, Chairman, J. N. Le Conte, Eee PARSONS: Outing Committce. 52 Sierra Club Bulletin. NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. in addition to onger articles suitable for the body of the magazine, the editor would be glad to receive brief memoranda of all noteworthy trips or explorations, together with brief comment and suggestion on any topics of general interest to the Club. Descriptive or narrative articles, or notes concerning the animals, birds, forests, trails, geology, botany, etc., of the mountains, will be acceptable. The office of the Sierra Club 1s at Room 316, Third Floor, Mills Building, San Francisco, where all the maps, photographs, and other records of the Club ave kept, and where members are welcome at any time. The Club would like to purchase additional copies of those numbers of the SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN which are noted onthe back of the cover of this number as being out of print, and we hope any member having extra copies will send them to the Secretary. SAN FRANcisco, July 15, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco, Cal. Sir: We have the honor to inform you, in accordance with instructions from the Grand Parlor, Native Daughters of the Golden West, held in San Jose, California, from June 12th to the 17th inclusive, that the inclosed resolutions, conferring on a peak in the Yosemite National Park the name “Mt. Junipero Serra,” were adopted by the Grand Parlor. We most earnestly desire your approval and co-operation in this effort to perpetuate the memory of the founder of the mis- sions. Very respectfully yours, (Mrs.) Litty O. REICHLING DYER, (Mrs.) Cora B. StrForp, (Miss) Harriett S. LEE, Committee. Wuereas, The life work and extraordinary achievements of Father Junipero Serra, in the exploration of the unknown terri- tory which afterwards became the State of California, are worthy of the admiration and praise of all who love this State; and WHEREAS, It is but simple justice to acknowledge the debt of posterity to a great, good, and unselfish man, and to perpetuate his memory by some enduring memorial; and WuHueErEAS, There is such a memorial ready and undedicated to the fame and glory of any one in an unnamed peak (as stated by City Engineer Grunsky in the reports of the Board of Public Works of the City and County of San Francisco, for the fiscal years IQO0I-1902 and 1902-1903, p. 210), located in the watershed Notes and Correspondence. 53 of Lake Eleanor at the head-waters of the Tuolumne River, and described as being 10,510 feet in height; therefore be it Resolved by the Grand Parlor of the N. D. G.. W., assembled this fifteenth day of June, 1905, in San Jose, California, That the aforementioned mountain be named Mt. Junipero Serra; and be it further Resolved, That copies of these resolutions be sent to the Gov- ernor of the State of California, the President of the United States, the United States Geological Survey, the National Geo- graphic Society, the Geographical Society of the Pacific, the Geographical Society of California, the Sierra Club, the California Club, the press, and to any other persons and societies that the Grand President may direct; and that the Government, the press, and the public are hereby requested to accept the name hereby given and to assist in making its use accepted and general to the end that the pioneer of pioneers may be duly honored in the land for which he worked and in which he died. Litty O. REICHLING DvER. San FrRAncisco, Oct. 27, 1905. Mrs. Litty O. RetcHitinc-Dyer, 2708 Hyde St., San Francisco. Dear Madam: Replying to your favor of July 15th, inclosing certain resolutions adopted by the Grand Parlor of the Native Daughters of the Golden West, I will state that the matter con- tained in those resolutions was referred by the Board of Directors of the Sierra Club to Professor George Davidson as a committee of one to report upon the matter. I herewith inclose the report of Professor Davidson, which is sent you by way of suggestion, and I wish to assure you that the Sierra Club will be only too glad to co-operate with you in any matter which pertains to the preservation of the scenery and other natural features of our Pacific Coast. Very respectfully yours, WititAm FE. Coxsy, Secretary of Sierra Club. 2221 WASHINGTON STREET, SAN FRANcIsco, CAL., Oct. 5, 1905. To THE Boarp oF Directors SrerrA CLus, SAN FRANCISCO. Gentlemen: On the 23rd September, at a meeting of the Directors of the Sierra Club, the undersigned was appointed a committee to frame an answer to an undated circular from the Grand Parlor of N. D. G. W., stating that on the 15th of June, 1905, an unnamed mountain in the Sierra Nevada, “located in the “watershed of Lake Eleanor at the head-waters of the Tuolumne “River, and described as being 10,510” feet elevation, was given the name of Junipero Serra to commemorate the life services of 54 Sierra Club Bulletin. that missionary ; and asking the Sierra Club to indorse their pro- ceedings. I beg to report very briefly to the Club that the first mission- aries who came to this coast were Fathers Juan Crespi and Fran- cisco Gomez. These fathers came with Governor Portola’s ex- pedition of 1769, to the port of Monterey, and were with the party when it discovered the Bay of San Francisco. In the Portola expedition of 1770 Father Juan Crespi came with the party by land; and the President Father Junipero Serra by sea, on account of his physical infirmities. These fathers assisted Governor Portola in founding the Mis- sion of San Carlos at Monterey, which was soon removed to the northeast shore of Carmel Bay, for sufficient reasons. Father Crespi continued his labors in California. President Father Serra spent his life in founding other missions on the coast hence to Lower California. He was familiar with the mountain ranges of Santa Lucia and Santa Ynes; and it is be- lieved that he never saw the Sierra Nevada. It therefore seems to me that some one of the unnamed peaks of the Sierra Santa Lucia stretching far southward from Carmel Bay would more appropriately bear the name of Father Serra. In that remarkable range, overhanging the Pacific for fifty miles, there are several unnamed peaks of 3,700 to 4,000 feet elevation. They are the landfalls of our navigators, and they were familiar to the early fathers. The name of Junipero Serra in the Sierra Nevada will be sim- ply a geographical record; his name upon one of these coast peaks that barred the expeditions of 1769 and 1770 will be a liv- ing designation to some marked and well-known landfall ap- pealed to every day by the mariner and traveler. Along the Sierra Santa Lucia, within a range of sixteen min- utes of latitude, and less than three miles from the ocean, J note the following peaks unnamed on the latest charts of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey: - Latitude. Height. LU em Sse NS HE ead bs Bony ie 4,032 feet Dye M alegre nr ae nat 36° 09%’ 3,900 feet CRO ey RO PUM MICA CNA IS f 36° 08’ 4,019 feet i ee Ut SOMMERS aoa a Be ais 4,014 feet This unique relation suggests that four names of the expedi- tions of 1769 and 1770 might well be applied to recall the heroic services to our State of Governor Gaspar Portola, Don Miguel Costans6 the engineer, Father Juan Crespi, and the President Father Junipero Serra. Very respectfully submitted, GEORGE DAVIDSON. Notes and Correspondence. 55 San Francisco, November 8, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA CLuB, San Francisco, Cal. Dear Sir: Your reply of October 27th to my letter of July 15th, regarding resolutions to name a mountain peak after Juni- pero Serra, adopted by the Grand Parlor of the Native Daughters of the Golden West, has been received by me. I have read with particular attention the report of Professor Davidson, and sincerely thank the Sierra Club for the suggestion he embodies therein. His report shall be considered by the committee together with other suggestions that have been received. With appreciation of your courtesy, I am, Yours very truly, Litty O. REICHLING DYER, Chairman committee naming mountain peak. WasHiIncrTon, D. C., June 7, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco, Cal. Dear Sir: I have to acknowledge, with many thanks, your courteous note of May 31st, in which you inform me of my elec- tion as an Honorary Vice-President of the Sierra Club. It gives me great pleasure to accept the position, and I beg that you will express to the Board of Directors my appreciation of the honor which has been done me. Very truly yours. GIFFORD PINCHOT. STANFORD UNIVERSITY, Sept. 14, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA Cus, San Francisco, Cal. Dear Sir: Your kind letter notifying me of my election as Honorary Vice-President of the Sierra Club I find on my desk on my return from Europe. I take pleasure in accepting the honor, and I feel that it is a great one. As a member of your Board of Directors I was able to do but little on account of the great pressure of my duties here and of outside matters in which I am interested. At the same time, I have the deepest interest in the work of the Sierra Club, and doubt if any other society to which I belong comes as near to my heart as that. Perhaps I should have found it necessary to attend meetings oftener if I had not found the Board of Directors always so admirably com- petent. Very truly yours, Davin S. JorpDAN. 56 Sierra Club Bulletin. EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT THE CENTURY MAGAZINE, New York, May 29, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA Cius, San Francisco, Cal. Dear Sir: I take great pleasure in acknowledging receipt of your letter of the 18th of May informing me that I have had conferred upon me the honor of election as one of the Honorary Vice-Presidents of the Sierra Club. My very great and sincere interest in the work of the Club and my admiration for its accomplishment in various directions make me appreciate fully the compliment that has been paid me in this election, and I beg to convey my thanks and respects to the Board of Directors. Respectfully yours, RoserT UNDERWOOD JOHNSON. VIENNA, AusTRIA, May 20, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco, Cal. Dear Sir: I beg to acknowledge with much appreciation the receipt of the courteous invitation extended by you on behalf of the Sierra Club to accompany you as your guest on your Fifth Annual Outing. The trip which you have so carefully planned is one in which I should take great pleasure, if I might be priv- ileged to share in introducing your members to the grand old peak that I have so long known and which still stands first in my affections among the mountains of three continents. I fully in- dorse the statement which you quote from the Hon. James Bryce regarding the noble form and peculiar charm of Mt. Rainier; and sympathizing heartily with the objects of the Club, I the more deeply regret that I am prevented by pressing scien- tific work from joining you. Permit me to wish the Club and its guests the fullest enjoy- ment of the delightful outing planned. Pardon me if I add a word of caution against the loose, treacherous volcanic rocks, so different from the firm granite of the Sierras, even in the Tatoosh Range. And believe me, with sincere appreciation, yours truly, BaiLtty WILLIS. THE GRAND CANON OF THE JTUOLUMNE. SAN Francisco, Aug. 21, 1905. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco, Cal. Gentlemen: I take pleasure in communicating to you the fact that your canister No. 5 and its inclosed scroll of names depos- ited in the cairn on the ridge back of Muir Gorge in the Grand Notes and Correspondence. 57 Cafion of the Tuolumne was in good order on the roth inst., when I passed that point. JI opened the canister, perused the contents, signed my name, and replaced it in its resting-place, taking care to add a rock as a seal to prevent the canister fall- ing out or being drawn out by an inquisitive coon or trader rat. At that date the signatures were as follows: 7/26, ’94— Messrs. Price, Solomons, Brann, Bonner, Colby; 8/12, ’97—Mr. and Mrs. R. M. Price; 7/22, ’o4—Messrs. Parsons, Lawson, Haskeil, Rodman, McDuffie, Lasell, Avery, Tappaan, Houze, Kim- ball, Badé, Hart, Cahn, Knapp; 8/10, ’o5—S. L. Foster. I had a very enjoyable though at times rather strenuous trip alone, carried ten days’ provisions and blankets, missed no meals nor night’s rest, caught all the trout I desired to eat, spent four and a half days between Tuolumne Meadows and Muir Gorge and two days between the latter place and Hetch-Hetchy Valley. I do not consider it a hard trip at all if proper provisions are made for it. The scenery, both as to water and rock effects, is extremely gratifying, and the continuous total absence of be- civilizing air is even more enjoyable. I went to Yosemite Valley by stage, to Tioga Road via Yo- semite Falls trail, and Indian Cafion by horseback, and thence on foot through to Crocker’s via Lake Tenaya, Tuolumne Meadows, Tuolumne Cafion, and Hetch-Hetchy Valley. I was absent four- teen days from San Francisco. Any one making this trip will find the account in volume I, number 6, of the SrrrrA CLuB BULLETIN’ of 1895 of the greatest value, and a typewritten copy of the essential descriptions and instructions should be carried. Professor Badé’s very interest- ing article in volume V, number 4, of the BULLETIN for 1905 should also be read before going for inspiration and after return- ing for reminiscences. Two statements in the former account (I BuLtetin No. 6), however, seem to need a word of explanation, as I was misled slightly by them. The north side of the river is recommended, but one must use his own judgment in this matter, as it will be found that there are many long stretches on the south side more practicable than corresponding distances opposite on the north side. I made four or five fords a day during the trip, not counting a crossing over a sixty-foot tree-trunk entirely spanning the river above the series of five waterfalls coming down the south wall of the cafion below Return Creek, and ancther over the flat base of an immense cone-shaped boulder inverted and bridging the roaring stream below Pait Valley. For these numerous fords I carried a waterproofed canvas bag weighing three quarters of a pound, which, when properly 58 Sierra Club Bulletin. filled with my impedimenta, became a boat, leaving me free to wade or swim. The trip from Muir Gorge to Hetch-Hetchy Valley is spoken of in the BULLETIN as “long and tedious,” whereas I found it delightfully easy compared with what preceded, and in conse- quence its variety of charms was the more enjoyed. If still sound, I should lock with great disfavor upon leaving the cool, trout- filled, down-grade river, with its generous sprinkling of cascades, rapids, long pools, and meadows below Pait Valley, either afoot or on horseback, for the hot, dry climb up the uncertain rocky trail 3,100 feet to the Tioga Road as advised in the BULLETIN article referred to. It was an easy one day’s tramp from Pait Valley to Hetch-Hetchy Valley, and another less easy one day’s tramp out to Crocker’s, full of interest all the way. The trout in the cafion bit at brown hackle, black fly, and red ant flies morning, noon, or night, but I caught four fish on a No. 0 Wilson spoon at the end of my leader to every one I caught on a fly. 5 When the grand Kolana Rock of Hetch-Hetchy Valley finally loomed up ahead about half a day out of Hetch Hetchy near the end of my cafion tramp I felt as relieved and delighted as if I had seen at the end of a long ocean voyage the well-known Twin Peaks of my native city, or as the Greeks under Xenophon did when they again beheld their well-loved sea, with the difference that I wanted to remain there indefinitely. It was with keen regret that I left my last camp among the pines, the rapids, the cliffs, the trout, the sunshine, and the other wild and refreshing charms of primeval nature in the Grand Cafion of the Tuolumne. Very truly yours, S. L. Foster. MEMORIAL OF THE SIERRA CLUB OF CALIFORNIA TO THE PRESIDENT AND CONGRESS OF THE UNITED STATES IN’ RELATION TO THE RECESSION OF THE YOSEMITE VALLEY AND THE Mariposa Bic Tree GRovE TO THE UNITED STATES BY THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA. The Sierra Club of California respectfully presents the followimg memorial to the President and Congress of the United States: Wuereas, The Legislature of the State of California has passed “An act [copy appended hereto] to recede and regrant unto the United States of America the ‘Yosemite Valley’ and the land embracing the ‘Mariposa Big Tree Grove,” which act was duly approved by the Governor of said State March 3, 1905; Wuereas, In 1864 the little known and at that time recently Notes and Correspondence. 59 discovered “Yosemite Valley” was granted in trust to the State of California by Congress, “to be held for public use, resort and recreation” ; WHEREAS, In 1890 the “Yosemite National Park,” entirely surrounding the “Yosemite Valley,’ was created by Congress; WHEREAS, The “Yosemite Valley’ embraces but fifty-six square miles, which is situated in the very heart and center of the Yosemite National Park, which embraces over one thousand square miles; Wuereas, There has thus been created an “imperium in im- perio” which has already given rise to unnecessary friction and expenditures, by reason of the two jurisdictions ; WHEREAS, Had the “Yosemite Valley” grant not been in exist- ence at the time of the creation of the Yosemite National Park, the idea of carving out of the heart of the National Park a small tract like the “Yosemite Valley” and placing it under a separate jurisdiction would never have been proposed; Wuereas, This illogical situation exists, which is detrimental to the interests of both parks, to remedy which the State passed the act receding the valley in order to place the entire park under one jurisdiction ; Wuereas, The “Yosemite Valley” is the natural and strategic, as well as the scenic, center of the National Park, with all its roads and most of its trails leading directly to the valley; WuHuereEAsS, The Federal authorities in charge of the National Park will always be hampered in their administration of the National Park until they acquire jurisdiction of the valley; WHeErEAS, The Yosemite Valley is now of world-wide interest and is “national” in importance, its natural wonders being of such magnitude that they would be better and more appropriately cared for and preserved under national ownership and protection; WuHerEAS, The Yosemite Valley is not now as accessible to the traveling public as it should be, nor is there sufficient hotel accommodation, nor are there satisfactory roadways and trails within the valley itself; WHereas, The Federal Government is in a better position to bring about these very desirable improvements than is the State of California, as is evidenced by the magnificent results which have been accomplished in the Yellowstone; WuHerEAS, The Honorable Secretary of the Interior and all of the recent superintendents of the National Park have strongly advocated the transfer ; WuHuereas, The State Board of Trade and all of the important local Boards of Trade, Merchants’ Exchanges, and Chambers of Commerce throughout the State of California, the American For- estry Association, the California Water and Forest Association, 60 Sierra Club Bulletin. the State Sempervirens Club, The California Club, and The Out- door Art League have adopted resolutions favoring recession; WHEREAS, Over one hundred newspapers, including all the leading newspapers throughout the State, without regard to political affiliation, have, by editorial comment, favored recession, while only two were opposed, thus indicating that the people of the State are overwhelmingly in favor of recession; Therefore, The Sierra Club memorializes the President and Congress of the United States to pass such laws as may be neces- sary to accept the “Yosemite Valley” and the “Mariposa Big Tree Grove,’ in accordance with the terms of the said act of reces- sion by the State of California. JoHn Murr, President. A. G. McAniz, Vice-President. J. N. Le Conte, Treasurer. Wo. E. Corry, Secretary. GEORGE DAVIDSON, Wm. R. DuDLeEy, J. S. Hurcuinson, Jr, WARREN OLNEY, E. T. Parsons, Board of Directors of the Sierra Club. [ APPENDIX. ] An Act to recede and regrant unto the United States of America the “Yosemite Valley,’ and the land embracing the “Mari- posa Big Tree Grove.” (Approved March 3, 1905.) The People of the State of California, represented in Senate and Assembly, do enact as follows: SECTION I. The State of California does hereby recede and tegrant unto the United States of .America the. “Cleft” or “Gorge” in the granite peak of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, situated in the county of Mariposa, State of California, and the head-waters of the Merced River, and known as the Yosemite Valley, with its branches or spurs, granted unto the State of California in trust for public use, resort, and recreation by the act of Congress entitled “An act authorizing a grant to the State of California of the Yosemite Valley, and of the land embracing the ‘Mariposa Big Tree Grove,” approved June 30, 1864; and the State of California does hereby relinquish unto the United States of America and resign the trusts created and granted by the said act of Congress. Sec. 2. The State of California does hereby recede and re- grant unto the United States of America the tracts embracing what is known as the “Mariposa Big Tree Grove,” granted unto the State of California in trust for public use, resort and recrea- Notes and Correspondence. 61 tion by the act of Congress referred to in section I of this act; and the State of California does hereby relinquish unto the United States of America and resign the trusts created and granted by the said act of Congress. Sec. 3. This act shall take effect from and after acceptance by the United States of America of the recessions and regrants herein made, thereby forever releasing the State of California from further cost of maintaining the said premises, the same to be held for all time by the United States of America for public use, resort and recreation, and imposing on the United States of America the cost of maintaining the same as a National Park. Provided, however, that the recession and regrant hereby made shall not affect vested rights and interests of third persons. 62 Sierra Club Bulletin. BOOK REVIEWS. EDITED BY WILLIAM FREDERIC BADE. President David Starr Jordan of Stanford Uni- versity is without doubt our leading American authority on fishes. This monumental work* is splendid evidence of his industry, perseverance, and scientific acumen. It is not often that one comes across a work so satisfying in every way. Were it not for the fascinat- ingly written subject-matter, of equal interest to the technical student and to the angler, a reviewer might be appalled by the size of these two sumptuous octavo volumes. They embrace more than twelve hundred pages, profusely illustrated in white-and- black and in half-tone, and the frontispiece of each volume shows in colors some of the remarkable fish brought by the author from his Pacific explorations. The following titles of chapters, selected at random from the first volume, will indicate the interesting character of the contents: “The Organs of Respiration,’ “The Organs of Sense,” “Instincts, Habits, and Adaptations,’ “Colors of Fishes,” “Fishes as Food for Man,” “The History of Ichthyol- ogy,’ “The True Sharks,” etc. Even “The Mythology of Fishes” has not been overiooked. Among other things the author, in the “A GUIDE TO THE STUDY oF FISHES.” last-mentioned chapter, refers to the popular superstitions about © mermaids: “In China small mermaids are very often made and sold to the curious. The head and torso of a monkey are fastened ingeniously to the body and tail of a fish.’ The manufacture of these “curios has long been a profitable industry in the Orient.” In a brief discussion of the sea-serpent myths Dr. Jordan, while disposed to regard most of the stories as mere sailors’ yarns, or stories resting on incorrect observation, suggests that some of them may relate to real fishes. Thus “the sea-serpent with an uprearing red mane like that of a horse is the oar-fish (Regal- ecus), a long, slender, fragile fish compressed like a ribbon and reaching a length of 255 feet.”” Very interesting is the photograph of a specimen of this genus (Vol. I, p. 362), stranded on the California coast at Newport, in Orange County. The recently discovered frilled shark (Chlamydoselachus angineus, pictured * A Guide to the Study of Fishes. By DAVID STARR JORDAN. Two colored rontispieces and 936 illustrations. 2vols.; pp. xxvi, 624, and xxii, 598. Published by Henry Holt & Co., New York, 1905. 8vo. Price, $12 net. Book Reviews. 63 Vol. I, p. 525, mot 523 as per index) may also be responsible for some of the stories. But the California angler, among all this wealth of informa- tion set forth with such charming clarity, instinctively turns to the two chapters (in Vol. II) on the Salmonide. Under the sub- heading “The Trout of Western America” the author presents a masterly discussion of these living arrows of the white water. It is a long list of species that answers to his roll-call. “in the western part of America are found more than a score of forms of trout of the genus Salmo, all closely related and difficult to distinguish.” Dr. Jordan distributes the various species among three series, the cut-throat trout, the rainbow trout, and the steel- head series. He deems it probable that the American trout orig- inated in Asia, extended its range to southeast Alaska, and thence spread southward. If it is true that the progenitors of a part or all of the aboriginal population of North America came across Bering Straits, or by way of the Aleutian Islands, we would have here an interesting parallel of human to piscine migration. Sierra Club members will be interested to learn that the small- scaled King’s and Kern River trout flourish under the name Salmo irideus gilberti. This beautiful form of trout therefore is linked with the name of Professor Charles H. Gilbert, of Stan- ford University, the lifelong associate of the author in the study of ichthyology. During the Club Outing of 1903 the journey to Mt. Whitney was made especially memorable by the famous golden trout of Volcano Creek. President Jordan gives this description of them in his work (Vol. II, p. 99): “In the head- waters of the Kern, in a stream called Volcano Creek or Whit- ney Creek, the waterfall sometimes called Agua-Bonita shuts off the movements of the trout. Above this fall is a dwarf form with bright golden fins, and the scales scarcely imbricated. This is the golden trout of Mount Whitney, Salmo irideus agua-bonita. It will possibly be found to change back to the original type if propagated in different waters.” In the preceding chapter the reviewer has called attention to only a few items of general and immediate interest. Many large questions raised in these chapters must go unmentioned for want of space. Among them is the question which concerns the prob- able evolution of fishes from some unknown, perhaps lamprey- like, ancestor. There was one class of primitive fishes known as Crossopterygians, of which but two families of few species sur- vive—all of them apparently in Africa. They united within themselves traits of the shark, lung-fish, and ganoid. Our author is of the opinion that from these “Crossopterygians, or their ancestors or descendants by the specialization of the lung and limbs, the land animals, at first amphibians, after these reptiles, ! ; j } 64 Sierra Club Bulletin. birds, and mammals, arose.’ The publishers have done their part to make the book attractive by the use of heavy paper, gen- erous margins, large print, and, above all, by the general excel- lence of the illustrations. No modern Isaak Walton can afford to remain without this thesaurus of most varied piscine lore. W. EF. B: y The true Alpinists, lovers of Nature in her primeval VOYAGES b . Aaa oe eauty and grandeur, seek untrodden trails, and love Atprs.” to taste the triumphs of “first ascents.” These will find piquant pleasure in this volume of excerpts from the writings of de Saussure, the early Swiss mountaineer, scholar, scientist, and artist in his depictions of the grandeur, magnifi- cence, and unsophisticated freshness of the European Alps. of his day, 1740-1799. This volume has been lately presented to the Sierra Club Library by our esteemed member Harrington Putnam, of New York. I venture to quote from the critique on this work written by the noted Swiss, R. Topffer, and reprinted in this, the edition of 1852, from the “Bibliotheque Universelle de Geneve,’ Septem- ber, 1834 :— . “How curious a thing, how strange a destiny that the man who has best known and comprehended the Alps, almost the only one who has sustained their character and grandeur in his style, was a scholar and student, a man of the barometer and hygrom- eter; and that, among so many artists, so many poets, visiting the same places to sing and paint, not one has been qualified to equal him or to approach him even at a distance. “De Saussure, who traversed the Alps to study their physics and their natural history,—that is to say, with a serious purpose, mind receptive, and body active,—took as an additional benefac- tion the charm of the country, the beauties of the wayside, the lively and novel experiences that accompanied his work; and at evening, on his summit, in his cabin content, permeated with it all, he penciled his journal; then, into the pauses of science slipped descriptions, memories, and observations of the day; then a thousand features, true because not sought, picturesque and poetic because they were true, took form under his pen; and without intention he traced a faithful picture, naive and glad- some, wherein is reflected simultaneously the grand scenes which surrounded him and the impressions which dominated him. “Do not conclude, however, from what precedes, that it is sufficient to be a geologist or a naturalist in order to be the painter of the Alps; to have a staff in hand, a barometer in pocket. Tt is not even sufficient to have, as de Saussure, a passion for the mountains, the most pronounced alpine vocation, the body inured to fatigues, the taste to enjoy mountaineering, to make it one’s recreation and delight. With all that, one can still write a sorry book; without that, one can write a good one. But to all that * Voyages dans les Alpes. Partie Pittoresque des Ouvrages de H.-B. DE SAUSSURE. Joél Cherbuliez, Editeur. Paris. 1852. PLATE XIV. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI RS CHAMONIX. AT DE TO MONUMENT Book Reviews. 65 material of his expeditions, if I may so express it, de Saussure united in a high degree the qualities of mind and character which, in all times and on any subject, make a writer interesting and distinguished, those which, both from the form and from the style, attract most the sympathy of the reader, and captivate the best, his attention. “That which I admire in these pages is that spirit of observa- tion, at once lofty and naive, grave and good-natured, which comprehends the grand features, and does not disdain the lesser details; that curiosity, philosophical and at the same time gentle and smiling, which finds agreeable food about the rustic homes seated on the flanks of the Mole, as well as grand reflections in face of the icy solitudes of Mont Blanc; that imagination suff- ciently rich, sufficiently elevated to find always enough food in the exact reality without exaggerating the beauties, without trans- forming the accidental into phenomena, the curious things into marvels, the singular into a miracle. “But with de Saussure the love of truth dominates and tem- pers the most brilliant faculties, and in his description and poetry is displayed the same fidelity, the same candor, as in his science—a thing very rare, a phenomenon very curious, unique with him. “That which interests me in these pages, in addition to the traits I have already remarked, is an undefinable vigor, simple and mature, displayed in the habits, in the tastes, and in the methods of the traveler. That scholar, rich, accustomed to the good things of life, as soon as he approaches his cherished moun- tains grasps the knotty staff, relies on his seasoned muscles, becomes a man of Chamouni, and in a country without hotels and without resources adopts without disdain, with pleasure, the rustic food and the rough shelter of his companions which he has chosen. There is enough pure, active, elevated pleasure to recompense him for some privation. He knows moreover the grand secret that all know, but that few put into practice: appe- tite is in the heights; repose, soft, sound, and sweet, is in the heights; it is only necessary to go there to seek them. If it is noble to know enough to prefer intellectual enjoyment to the ease of a life of wealth, it is also noble to know how to exchange lazy recreations for laborious pleasures. Since de Saussure the trails are mapped out, hotels are opened even on the summits, mules and litters have penetrated everywhere, and the grand secret, preserved with the initiated few, is lost for the general. “That which pleases and delights me is to see a man unlike myself, a superior intellect, recreate himself'in my way, an illus- trious scholar enjoy the things that please me, and, in thus plac- ing himself in my class, sanction my manner of enjoyment. Even more,—it is possible to learn from a guide so distinguished how to travel, how to observe, how to interest one’s self, how to find in Nature so many charms, so much grace, so much fresh- ness, so much mystery; how the discovery of an alpine plant which blooms isolated at the edges of the eternal snows moves and rejoices as much and more than a spectacle obtained at great expense. “As for me, what I say here is less the praise of its truth than of its information; and for fifteen years that I have gone to the mountains to greet the glorious days I have taken there to enjoy only the little I have been able to grasp in this book, and that little has been for me a great wealth. 66 Sierra Club Bulletin, “What I love in these pages, what attracts me to their author, is the sentiment of benevolence and humanity which always ani- mates de Saussure toward the poor mountaineers among which he lives; that gentle and cheerful goodness with which he meets those people, excusing their prejudices, compassionating their harsh fatigues, appreciating the excellent qualities covered by their coarse exteriors. He converses with his guides, he inter- ests himself on their behalf, he makes himself their friend, he does not consider that mere money pays for the respect, the devotion, the affection of those simple hearts who give them- selves to him. Nobility as true as rare, token of an admirable soul, of a sane heart, of a character upright and good. “These things move me, for they have become rare, if they were not always so. For so many who are merely rich the pride of wealth alone is enough to make them exacting, harsh, and haughty toward the poor people they employ; but this man, rich too,—and more, a scholar,—and more, celebrated,—found it easy to be the friend of those who loved him, and on the mountains to be the equal of mountaineers. “Finally, that which distinguishes these pages, that which will place them always at the head of all that have been written on these particular regions, is the charm of novelty, the force and movement of discovery. The fresh, pure color of a still virgin nature is there felt throughout. And this charm one only can perceive and describe who, as de Saussure, is the first to pene- trate unknown valleys; the first to there discover magnificent treasures reposing since the creation, surprising among remote peoples antique ways, touching customs, a thousand naive traits, already tarnished when noticed, lost when admired, and which certainly it is useless to seek to-day in these beautiful valleys.” Ea Ws A charming novel of travel in the Alps is The THE PRINCESS Princess Passes,* by C. N. and A. M. William- is : _ IN: f PASSES. son. In its early chapters one renews acquaint- ance with the famous “Lightning Conductor,” his automobile and his wife. Later the hero of this book, Lord Lane, combines a walking trip across the Saint Bernard Pass and into Chamounix, with a love-story rather suggestive of “Twelfth Night” in some of its complications. To one accustomed to mountaineering, some of the hardships and perils described will have an effect very different from what the authors intended. The picture of the pedestrian who finds it “impossible to improvise a dressing-room in the neighborhood of the pump” for the putting on of a clean collar would be amus- ing if it were not pathetic; and the ardors of the climb of Mont Revard would seem very awe-inspiring if we had not a gauge of its difficulty in the ease with which the muleteer gets his beasts to the summit. One interesting aspect of the book is the association of historic * The Princess Passes. By C. N. and A. M. WILLIAMSON. Henry Holt & Co., New York. $1.50. Book Reviews. 67 scenes with the mountains—an association which plays so large a part in the charm the very name of the Alps has for us. “St. Bernard had me at his feet and held me there,” says Lord Lane. “This strange, unkempt Pass, this Great St. Bernard seemed a secret way back into other centuries, savage and remote... . There was the old Roman road along which Napoleon had led his staggering thousands. ... Farther and farther back into the land of dead days I journeyed with St. Bernard, and helped him found the monastery which the eyes of my flesh had not yet seen.” This volume, presented to the Club library by Mr. E. T. Par- sons, will be found to be very entertaining reading. M. R. A book that will be welcomed by members of “ A HANDBOOK the Sierra Club is Miss Eastwood’s Handbook OF aos Se of the Trees of California,* a recent publica- tion of the California Academy of Sciences. The first issue includes a special edition of “five hundred copies, numbered and signed by the author.’ On previous occasions Miss Eastwood has placed students of California’s diversified flora under obligation by the published results of her work. One of these appeared as No. 27 among the Sierra Club’s publications in 1902, and was entitled “A Flora of the South Fork of King’s River.” This proved so useful to botanically interested members of the two Sierra Club outings to the King’s and Kern River cafions that they will not be slow to avail themselves of this new aid to their studies. It is a popular but scientifically accurate vade-mecum. As the title indicates, it limits itself to the trees of California, but this limitation has the advantage of enabling the author to bring the whole State within the scope of a con- veniently portable manual. A striking feature of the book con- sists of a profusion of finely executed half-tone plates, many of them made from drawings left by Dr. Albert Kellogg. These illustrations cannot fail to be of great assistance to the amateur student. Naturally Miss Eastwood was obliged to make the rather difficult distinction between a tree and a shrub. Among California shrubs there are many ambitious candidates aspiring to rank as trees, and not a few of the arboreal aristocracy have fallen from their quondam estate through progressive change of environment. To quote the author, “In general a tree differs from a shrub in having a distinct trunk some distance above the ground, and in being not less than fifteen feet high. Where the species is only rarely a tree and generally a shrub it has not been * 4 Handbook of the Trees of California. By ALICE EASTWOOD. Published by the California Academy of Sciences. No. IX. San Francisco, 1905. For sale at Robertson’s, Elder’s, and elsewhere. Price, paper bound, $2; leather bound, $2.50. 68 Sierra Club Bulletin. included, so that many species of Ceanothus, many of the man- zanitas, the sumachs, and many others have been omitted.” (Here is room for another manual.) In a few pages of pithy introductory discussion the author rightly emphasizes the beauty, variety, and grandeur of Califor- nia’s forest vegetation. The fame of the State is in large meas- ure the fame of her “Big Trees’’—the first interest of the tourist and sojourner. But who could overlook the eighteen species of pine described in text and illustration, or even such beautiful rarities as the mountain mahogany and Lyonothamnus of Santa Catalina Island? A most valuable feature of the book is the author’s key to the families of the trees. With this, as well as two additional keys based upon the fruits and leaves respectively, it ought to be no difficult matter for any lover of trees to deter- mine the identity of a species. W. Ft) The Club library is in receipt of a copy of the Report of the Smithsonian Institution for 1904. Among many interesting articles, special mention should be made of one by Douglas W. Freshfield, entitled “On Mountains and Mankind.” It is a fresh and suggestive discussion of the fascination which mountains have exerted over the mind of man from the earliest times. In the original form the article was an address delivered before the Cambridge Meeting of the British Association in 1904. W BU3B: ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION. 1904. Forestry Notes. 69 FORESTRY NOTES. EpDITED BY PROFESSOR WILLIAM R. DUDLEY. The last Congress took no formal action ac- cepting the responsibility and management of the tracts known as the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, which were returned to the United States by the action of the late California Legislature. President Roosevelt and the Forestry Service have been thoroughly in sympathy with this movement to consolidate the management of the lands in the vicinity of the Yosemite. The former, therefore, in his annual message to the present Congress in December, made the following recommendations :— THE YOSEMITE. “T call your attention to the generous act of the State of Cali- fornia in conferring upon the United States Government the ownership of the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big Tree Grove. There should be no delay in accepting the gift, and ap- propriations should be made for the including thereof in the Yosemite National Park, and for the care and policing of the park. California has acted most wisely as well as with great magnanimity in the matter. There are certain mighty natural features of our land which should be preserved in perpetuity for our children and our children’s children. In my judgment the Grand Cafion of the Colorado should be made into a national park. “It is greatly to be wished that the State of New York should copy as regards Niagara what the State of California has done as regards the Yosemite. Nothing should be allowed to interfere with the preservation of Niagara Falls in all their beauty and majesty. If the State cannot see to this, then it is earnestly to be wished that she should be willing to turn it over to the Na- tional Government, which should in such case (if possible, in conjunction with the Canadian Government) assume the burden and responsibility of preserving unharmed Niagara Falls; just as it should gladly assume a similar burden and responsibility for the Yosemite National Park, and as it has already assumed them for the Yellowstone National Park. Adequate provision should be made by the Congress for the proper care and super- vision of all these national parks. The boundaries of the Yel- lowstone National Park should be extended to the south and east to take in such portions of the abutting forest reservation as will enable the Government to protect the elk on their winter range. The Secretary of the Interior in his report also strongly rec- ommends the acceptance of the retroceded tracts as follows :— “Aside from the objections which are inseparable from a dis- puted and divided jurisdiction over an area which naturally 70 Sierra Club Bulletin. forms but one great park, the necessity for the establishment of a suitable and convenient post or camp for the troops; for the adoption of a comprehensive system of patrols in the valley and the park; for the protection of both parks against destructive fires; the construction of an adequate system of free public roads leading to the valley; the building therein of ample hotel and other accommodations for visitors, as well as the safe-guarding of the valley from the granting of unwise and extravagant con- cessions—all these things seem to call imperatively for immediate action on the part of the National Government; and I cannot too strongly urge upon Congress the importance of at once adopting measures which will set at rest any question as to the purpose of the United States to accept the retrocession by the State of Cali- fornia of the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, and thus preserve the entire country embraced in these parks for public use and recreation forever. “Tt is further recommended that, for administrative purposes in the management of the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, a parcel of land of approximately one mile in length and two miles in width, immediately south of the Yosemite National Park and abutting the Big Tree Grove on the north, be included within the metes ane pounds of the Yosemite National Park and made a part thereof.” It would be quite appropriate to also bring the Fresno Big Tree Grove, some miles south of the Mariposa Grove and over the Mt. Raymond divide, under the same management. Early in December Senator Perkins of California introduced into the Senate a bill embodying the recommendations of the — President regarding the Yosemite. In the August number of Forestry and Irri- gation, A. F. Potter, of the Forestry Service, summarizes the present extent of the California forest reserves, the work being done upon them, the amount of grazing allowed, and the character of the new reserves added since January I, 1905. The old reserves, chiefly in the mountains of Southern California and along the Sierra Nevada from Lake Tahoe south- ward, amounted to less than 10,000,000 acres. The new Cali- fornia forest reserves are six in number, are located in Northern California, and swell the total amount in the State to 14,250,000 acres. Mr. Potter states that this is “an acreage almost double that included in any other State or Territory. There still remains withdrawn from entry a large area from which it is probable several additional reserves will be created, so that ultimately the National Forest Reserves of California will include about 16,- 000,000 acres of land.” The general situation of the new reserves was given in the pages of the BULLETIN in the numbers for February and June, 1903. The land had then been recently withdrawn from sale and entry preparatory to expert examination, and the reserves were ForEST RESERVES. Forestry Notes. 7 intended to protect the head-waters of the Sacramento and its tributaries and the Klamath and its tributaries. Of these re- serves the Modoc and the Warner Mountains reserves are in the northeastern part of the State, the Klamath and Trinity reserves cover portions of the watershed of these rivers respectively, while the Plumas and Lassen Peak reserves occupy the northern ex- tension of the Sierra Nevada and the southern part of the great lava region in Plumas and Lassen counties. A seventh, the Mt. Shasta Forest Reserve, twelve townships from Mt. Shasta south- westward, was created in October, 1905. The boundaries of these reserves “have been drawn so as to include only lands suited to forest reserve purposes.” The bitter opposition in 1902 to the proposed reserves will be recalled perhaps. It was apparently local, but was probably wholly due to the paid agents of certain lumber interests foreign to California, which were interrupted in their plans, already well advanced, for rapidly monopolizing the valuable stands of timber in Northern California through misuse of our several unfortunate land laws. The movement of capital from the exhausted white-pine land of Minnesota to Northern California was begun as early as 1899. The writer, who had traveled through these forests in that year, endeavored to interest the Interior Department in a reservation of the public forest domain from Nevada County northward to include the head-waters of all the Sacramento tributaries. A resolution to that effect was accepted and adopted in the meeting of the American Forestry Association, which met at Los Angeles that year, but the right time to check the vast amount of fraudulent acquirement of these lands by Eastern lumbermen passed with- out any movement on the part of Binger Hermann, then Com- missioner of the General Land Othce, now under indictment for conspiracy with minor land speculators to defraud the United States; and it is difficult to see how any of the forest land now included in at least four of the Northern California reserves could have been saved from private greed, except for the oppor- tune interest and action of President Roosevelt in 1902. That these private interests have attained a powerful hold on North- ern California, and that their influence is a thing to be con- stantly reckoned with, is evidenced by the protest of State Mineralogist Aubury to the General Land Office, published in December, 1905, stating that an effort is now being made at Wash- ington, through the agents of these few land monopolists, to have seven townships segregated from the reserve in Plumas County. It also states that the work of acquiring an enormous amount of small holdings, evidently for timber purposes, through a fraudu- lent use of the placer-mining laws is still being carried forward by an old offender, H. H. Yard. As an illustration of the extent G2 Sierra Club Bulletin. to which the land laws have been turned to a use not at all in- tended by their framers, it is stated that in seven Plumas County townships the property of the settlers and miners amounts to only 19,244 acres, as against 34,0904 acres claimed to have been acquired under the land laws in two years by a few land specu- lators. Among them are Thomas B. Walker, conspicuous since 1898-1899 in such enterprises in Northern California, and Wil- liam E. Wheeler. These few men have continued their opera- tions with particular tenacity in Plumas County on account of the expected enhancement of timber-land values after the com- pletion of the Western Pacific Railroad. Whatever the outcome, Messrs. Aubury and Edman deserve well of the public in voicing vigorously the injury done the real miner by these monopolistic encroachments. If there is fraud in the method of the acquire- ment, their protest may result in an investigation on the part of the Government such as has been successfully inaugurated dur- ing the past year in Oregon. , Other States have also been favored in the establishment of new forest reserves, until we now have over 100,000,000 acres set aside under this head in the Western States and Territories. In October of the present year 343,000 acres were withdrawn from the public domain in the heart of Monterey County, in preparation for the proposed Santa Lucia Forest Reserve. It has been already pretty thoroughly inspected. It concerns the water supply of the Carmel River and of the Arroyo Seco and other streams contributory to the Salinas Valley water supply. The zeal of the United States Forestry Ser- vice since the reserves were placed under their supervision by the last Congress has been displayed in many pieces of work but little known to those who do not read the forestry journals and the Service publications. In no direction has it been more active than in experiments in reforestation of denuded or chaparral areas in the semi-arid States. In Cali- fornia this work has been chiefly confined to the south, where thousands of pine seedlings have been planted; but reforesting has been undertaken near Mt. Shasta. In Colorado, New-Mexico seedlings are being raised by the million for this purpose. Ex- perts have been brought from the English service, where re- forestation has been practiced for a long time, and the subject of replanting the denuded areas in the California reserves has been taken up with the President by Senators Perkins and Flint. REFORESTATION. The Governor of California appointed Edward T. Allen as State Forester under the new For- estry Law. He took up his new duties in July. The appoint- STATE FORESTER. Forestry Notes. 73 ment was made with much care and has everywhere been well received. He was long familiar with the forests of the Pacific Coast, his father being a well-known naturalist living for many years in the vicinity of Mt. Rainier. He is a trained forester, as the law requires, and was taken from the United States Forestry Service, when appointed to his present position. He no doubt has a great opportunity; but the people of the State have a greater one, and an even greater duty, in sympathetically aiding and supporting their Forester. The American Forest Congress in January, 1905, was a remarkable gathering in many ways. It was one of the very few gatherings of specialists when a President of the United States has entered the assembly as a speaker. The proceedings of the Congress have been published in a single volume by the American Forestry Association. While Forestry and Irrigation, the organ of the American Forestry Association, is perhaps well known to may readers of the BULLETIN, probably few see the Forestry Quarterly, a journal largely for the professional forester, but containing many articles of a non-professional character. In number three of this year Mr. E. A. Sterling gives an account of forest legislation in Cali- fornia. He finds “that the recently enacted forest legislation in California is the nearest approach to a model forest code yet made and furnishes a foundation for a more perfect system than has been inaugurated in any State.’ The Quarterly has many reviews of articles and books relating to forestry both in Amer- ica and in foreign countries. Dr. B. E. Fernow is the editor-in- chief, and Professors Graves, Fisher, and Roth, respectively the heads of the forestry instruction at Yale, Harvard, and Michigan, are upon the board of editors. The journal is two dollars a year, and published at Ithaca, N. Y. PUBLICATIONS. _ REPORT ON THE KING’S RIVER REGION _ REVISED BY-LA WS OF THE SIERRA CLUB IN THIS NUMBER PUBLICATIONS OF THE SIERRA CLUB No. 35 SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN Vol. VI ss - No. 2 JANUARY, 1907 sanisonian | nsti i UK - Somneena lA ‘oot Mi A R 3 Olt) a > ; " St Y ; A > SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA chy a 1907 SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN Sek JANUARY, 1907 Bea Vol. VI. ; : ; No. 2 - CONTENTS An ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN...... Wm. Frederic Badé. 75 Plates XV, XVI, XVII, XVIII, XIX. , Se ig bus Naw “Mr RAINTER:. 3. co a George Davidson... 87 THE Seconp Kino’s River Ovutinc...Marion Randall..... ' 100 Plates XX, XXI, XXII, XXUI, XXIV. Tue Motion of THE NisQuALLY GLA- - CLER) WET AIS ARN TER O80. 20a) shag. he SENSE CCORIGS ee 108 Plates XXV, XXVI, XXVII. Report on THE Krnc’s River Canon (Wm.E.C olby AND VICINITY ©... 26: Tai ae oe JON. Le Conte). als Plates XXVIII, XXIX, XXX. E. T. Parsons ORGANIZATION (OF THE. STPRRAICEUB. «sv. 2k ee Ae ee 128 REPORTS : Report of the Grsrodian of Le Conte Menoeiet Lose Moscmute Nallleys aii) 2.0 ie ee 129 NOTES AND. CORRESPONDENCE? So 0544) oe eee 131 BOOK REVIEWS coh) ee Ge tee Wm. Frederic Badé. 135 FORESTRY sNOTS oo. ee ea TUBAL. as mee 139 REVISED (BY-LAWS OF DBE SIERRA (CLUB... 08a: 3 oe. oo eee 143 All communications intended for publication by the SIERRA Crus, and all correspondence concerning such publication, should be addressed to the Editor, Elliott McAllister, 402 Union Trust - Building, San Francisco, California. Correspondence concerning the dictauution and sale of the publications of the Club, and concerning its business generally, should be addressed to the Secretary of the Sierra Club, 2901 Channing Way, Berkeley, California. wt STERRA._ CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VWI. 5 PLATE XV. SG te ae THE MATTERHORN. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. a as i ee NE ca Cita on ie ea Vou. VI. SAN FRANcisco, JANUARY, 1907. No. 2. I eo ae AN ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.* By WitiramM Freperic Bans. It was a sultry July day as my young friend Irving Cockroft and I walked into Stalden sur la Viege. There really were three of us, for on the top of the Col de Balme we had fallen in with Herr Elkuss, of Berlin, who, under a shock of gray hair, had preserved a sturdy frame, a cheerful mind, and all his youthful fondness for Alpine trails. We had footed it together to Martigny, taken rail for Viege, and had trudged up the foaming Visp to Stalden. It was noon and very warm. After a generous lunch we went to the station to wait for the queer little train, drawn by a species of Abt locomotive, that during the tourist season daily snorts its Way Up a sinuous and oiten steeply inclined track to Zermatt. On the station platform I noticed an individual who by various unmis- takable characteristics proclaimed himself a Swiss guide. Our own quest and identity did not escape his practiced eye, for he immediately offered his services. Perhaps long acquaintance with the average tourist, or the presence of our elderly friend, suggested to him the unfeasibility of a strenuous undertaking. He wanted to know whether he might not lead us up the Breithorn (altitude 1 3,685 feet). This is the easiest of the many climbs undertaken from Zermatt by tourists, and Alpinists have therefore con- temptuously dubbed it the ““Damenhorn” (Ladies’ Horn). Herr Elkuss resented the suggestion with a snort of dis- gust and an allusion to this fling. The guide immediately * July 20, 1905. 76 Sierra Club Bulletin. perceived that he had begun climbing up the wrong chim- ney, and made haste to come back. He averred that he was ready and able to climb any mountain in the Alps. But Herr Elkuss assured him that he was not looking for any trouble among the precipices, and I was not anxious to engage a man who solicited patronage so far from his base of operations. By mere chance I asked him to give me his name. It was Alexander Burgener, a name I immediately recognized as illustrious in the annals of Alpine mountaineering. The senior Burgener, still active as a guide, made several difficult first ascents, among them that of the Aiguille du Dru. Our interlocutor was Bur- gener Junior, the eldest son of the former, who also holds an enviable record as a cautious and expert guide. His home is at Stalden, and he was on his way to Zermatt when he met us at the station in Stalden. The more I conversed with him the more I liked him, and before we reached Zermatt had engaged him for a few days of climbing. : During the afternoon of the next day we set out for the Fluhalp auberge, intending to climb the Rimpfisch- horn for practice. Cockroft had had little experience in mountaineering, and it was deemed desirable to let him try himself out before attempting the much more difficult ascent of the Matterhorn (altitude 14,705 feet). The altitude of the Rimpfischhorn is 13,790 feet. In the course of its ascent one encounters a variety of climbing over snow, glacial ice, loose rocks, and some precipitous cliffs. While much more difficult than the Breithorn, there is nothing in the ascent of this moun- tain which a skillful mountaineer would call difficult. Toughened by several days of strenuous footing over high passes, we found the conquest of the Rimpfischhorn easy, and returned in prime condition. Burgener, who felt that a change of weather was im- pending, urged that we rest a day before starting for the Matterhorn. But I insisted on starting the next after- noon, for I was due to sail from Rotterdam at the end An Ascent of the Matterhorn. 77 of the month and did not want to take chances on dis- arranging my programme. A spell of bad weather some- times lasts a week in the Alps, and the guides do not like to start for the cabane or Alpenhiitte on the Hornli when the weather is unsettled. I felt that it was better to get Burgener and David up to the cabin at once, so that even if we had to weather a storm there, we could take advan- tage of the first fair day that came. From Zermatt one has to reckon on two days for the ascent; from the Alpine cabin it can be done in one day. Our counsels prevailed. We laid in a good stock of provisions, had our shoes re- studded with a formidable armament of nails, took an additional new rope, and then started for cloudland. During our stay at the hotel we had not mingled much with American tourists. On the register we simply signed the last place from which we had come, and at the table we talked French or German, whichever the occasion suggested. Our Alpine costume helped to complete our disguise, so that several times we were treated to amusing discussions of our identity in good American vernacular. But soon after our return from the Rimpfischhorn, either through the guides or through the head waiter, from whom we obtained a variety of things for the trip, the news leaked out that we were Americans and that we had come to scale the Matterhorn. Immediately we became objects of interest to the Americans at the hotel. They waylaid us in the hall after dinner, and we, nolens volens, had to hold a reception. Cockroft, on account of his youth, became an object of envy and admiration to several lads in the crowd, who afterwards accompanied us for an hour on our way up the Hornli. But soon their talk gave out and their breath also, and they turned back to the little village over which the westering sun began to throw the massive shadows of the Gabelhérner. The Matterhorn wore a great white kaftan of clouds. By the time we reached the Schwarzsee Hotel it began to rain. We stopped there for a little while to buy additional pro- visions and some wood for fuel. Then we struck out 78 Sierra Club Bulletin. again into the twilight and the rain. Our path soon led along a narrow ridge of rock with precipices on both sides. It was slippery and we had to pick our way with care. Burgener and David were sent ahead to prepare our supper and to look after our comfort for the night, while we came along more leisurely, enjoying the sublim- ity of the surroundings. At last we sighted the welcome beams of a light in the window of a firmly built stone lodge. Under ordinary circumstances it would not have - afforded much comfort. But up there in cloudland the rickety and fuming old stove in the corner, the straw- covered platform, and the loosely hung door, seemed to enfold a world of comfort. Outside the storm raged with increasing fury. Snow, sleet, and rain beat down upon our shelter, sending us deeper and deeper into the blankets. We were not alone in the hut. An old Italian guide, who needed no further touches to play the role of bandit, had preceded us with his Signor. We kept the partition be- tween us and them. To attempt the ascent the next day (Wednesday) was out of question. The storm continued and heavy clouds obscured the summit of the Matterhorn. It was a most impressive thing, during a few sunlit hours of the day, to watch cannonades of rock come down the east face and bound out with a fearful roar upon the Furggen Glacier. Rocks acquire frightful mo- mentum on the sides of the Matterhorn. During a part of the way their path from a distance is visible only by the puffs of smoke that rise where they strike. At night they leave a long trail of fire. This and the infernal noise which accompanies them leave no doubt in the mind of the ignorant Swiss. peasant that the devil beguiles his leisure moments by sliding down the face of the Matter- horn. Amid such diversions, including a magnificent display of cloud-forms, the day wore away, to be suc- ceeded by another night of wind and storm. Fortunately we had slept a good deal during the day, for our slumbers that night were rudely broken by the arrival of a party under the guidance of Alexander Burgener, Senior. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATES XVI AND XVII. OBERGABELHORN, ROTHHORN, AND WEISSHORN. FROM MATTERHORN, AT AN ALTITUDE OF ABOUT 12,500 FEET. FATHER AND SONS. (ALEXANDER BURGENER, JR., IN THE MIDDLE. ) THE BURGENERS From photographs by the Author, 1905. An Ascent of the Matterhorn. 79 Very early on Thursday morning, July 2oth, Burgener was out sniffing the weather. It still looked ominous. There was a high wind, and cloud-wracks, driven with great velocity, almost combed the ledge on which the cabin stood, then dashed up against the towering mass of the mountain, like breakers against cliffs. There was a chance that the weather might clear, and we decided to trust to luck and take the risk. David packed up our lunch, consisting of wine, tea, some meats, and various condensed foods usually taken by mountaineers. I took my camera, a small flask of rum, and a few small articles. Burgener, carrying a new rope and rucksack with some lunch, led the way into the night, for the dawn was scarcely beginning to break. Not far above the cabin we struck the northeast aréte. Here we roped ourselves together securely. Cockroft was placed immediately be- hind Burgener, then came David Andenmatten, and I brought up the rear. After worming our way along narrow ledges, up and around several sharp corners, we struck out upon the east face. Dimly visible beyond the rim of the precipice, far beneath us, yawned the bergschrund of the Furggen Glacier. From a point not far above where we were Dr. William O. Mosely, of Boston, had fallen in 1879. We found no difficulty at this early hour in traversing the Great and the Little Couloir, two funnel-like depressions, through which the rocks, quarried by frost and wind on the cliffs above, go bounding with fearful momentum to the glacier below. The guides are in great dread of these places, for no skill in climbing can avail against cannonades of rocks. Sev- eral persons have in recent years lost their lives in the Great Couloir. Silently, steadily we picked our way up the east face of the mountain, not very far from the northeast aréte, and edging toward it more and more as we reached a point about one third of the way up. To this point the climbing could not be called difficult. What from a distance looks like a smooth, unclimbable surface is really considerably rifted and corrugated, af- So Sierra Club Bulletin. fording good foot- and handholds. On the other hand, what from afar looked like easy stair-form ledges often proved to be very disagreeable projecting terraces of more than a man’s height. By the same magic of proximity small white patches became hanging fields of hard-frozen, granulated snow, on which every step had to be cut with care. Furthermore, even in the relatively easy places one is never quite unconscious of the sharply descending slope, which on any part of the Matterhorn calls for a cool head and steady nerves. Constant circumspection is the price of life. Being the rearmost, I deemed it wise to watch also the spaces above me. Even the most careful climbers sometimes dislodge rocks. We were going up a some- what difficult chimney, when suddenly, before Burgener’s ejaculation could reach my ear, I saw a rock of about a foot diameter falling directly toward my head. I instantly dodged at the risk of slipping, and not a moment too soon, for I felt the eddy of air the dread messenger was carry- ing in his wake, and smelt the sulphur of the first contact as it struck with a crash behind me and went bounding into the abyss. Halfway up climbing became more difficult. We now kept well to the aréte. The sun began to break through the clouds and to dissipate the fog-banks through which the summits of the higher peaks appeared like islands. The strong wind was a great obstacle. It swept across the Matterhorn Glacier and up the almost perpendicular north side of the mountain, then spilled itself over the edge of the aréte with a momentum that at times threat- ened to lift us into the air. Yet for several rod-lengths the aréte formed the only practicable ascent. It was barely two feet wide in places where the wind had combed the snow of the previous day into a ridge. On the crest of this ridge we moved along the edge of the awful preci- pice that ends in the crevasses of the Matterhorn Glacier, two thousand feet or more below. When old Burgener was cutting steps above us, the wind would lift great chunks of ice and snow, toss them about like feathers, and An Ascent of the Matterhorn. 81 drop them in uncomfortable fashion about our heads. Cockroft had the misfortune to receive a cut on the cheek. Alpine crows also allowed themselves to be tossed about by the wind in such fashion that we sometimes dodged involuntarily, thinking rocks were coming down. The climbing now became more and more difficult as we neared the shoulder. Most of the time we found our- selves spread-eagled against the cliffs with seemingly endless space under our feet. About halfway up, on a narrow shelf, a brief halt was made in order to lighten David’s pack of provisions. A mixture of wine and tea was found very refreshing, and a good part of the food we had brought went to appease our appetites. In a few minutes we were climbing again. I tried to use my camera several times, but found that, even in the most advantageous positions, I had to cling so closely to the mountain-wall that no good photographs of the precipices could be secured. Arrived at the shoulder, we divested our- selves of all but the most necessary impedimenta, for now came the tug of war. From this point the ascent is usually made on the north side of the mountain. This remaining stretch of seven hundred feet is the most nervous part of the whole climb. The impression of perpendicularity one gets of this portion of the mountain, when scanning its precipices with a powerful glass from the Zermatt side, is more than borne out by experience when one hangs by the ends of one’s fingers and toes over an abyss that yawns between the climber’s heels through nearly a mile of blue space.* In the more treacherous places ropes have been swung from iron bars sunk into drill-holes. They serve to give a little confidence to the timid, but must be used with caution, because it is impossible to tell to what ex- tent frost, lightning, and avalanches may have weakened them. It should be observed that most persons who venture * The character of this precipice may be inferred from the fact that stones drop more than 1,500 feet before they strike the side of the mountain, and those which roll from above and bound out fall to an even greater depth before they make their first contact. At the bottom they land as much as a thousand feet beyond the base of the mountain. 82 Sierra Club Bulletin. to climb the Matterhorn in these days become mere bag- gage in the hands of the guides, who wisely insist on going in pairs with every inexperienced climber. Inas- much as the guides cannot collect the full tariff of a hundred francs ($20) each if they do not get their man to the top, and since it is also a matter of professional pride and future patronage with them to succeed, they do not hesitate to push and drag their man to the top, so long as he can be induced to move. Many a one who has been on the summit of the Matterhorn has gone there in spite of himself, and with the feeling of a victim that is led to the slaughter. I saw one young German that day, evidently a tyro at mountaineering, who would have been willing to mortgage his hope of salvation to be safely in Zermatt again. On the way down he became so terrified that one of his guides threatened to brain him with an ice-ax if he did not move on. It gave the poor fellow at least the courage of anger. Now he doubtless is among those who levy a high toll of admiration for a daring bit of mountaineering, though he confessed freely in the evening that it was the first and last mountain he would ever climb. Audendo magnus tegitur timor. We were at an altitude of 14,000 feet as we turned to the north side of the mountain at the shoulder. The height and the isolation of the mountain exposed us to the full force of the wind, which had reached a high de- gree of velocity. Rocks and chunks of ice were constantly being torn loose and went bounding past us into bottom- less space, like things possessed. No wonder that before the fateful first ascent the simple folk of the mountains believed this dizzy summit guarded by demons. It was bitterly cold. Our gloves were in shreds and we could feel the skin of our hands freezing to the rocks during those momentary halts when Burgener was cutting an- other step or two in the congealed snow with which the storm of the previous day had filled every crevice. Our rope now was kept taut to minimize the effect of the slightest possible slip. “Stehen Sie fest,” would come STERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATES XVIII AND XIX. SWISS ALPINE CLUB CABIN ON HORNLI RIDGE. WHERE HORNLI RIDGE JOINS MATTERHORN. (ERECTED 1890. ) (FINDELEN GLACIER IN DISTANCE. ) From photographs by the Author, 1905 2 eee _____ An Ascent of the Matterhorn. 83 Burgener’s voice from above a jutting shelf some forty feet above our heads. “Jetzt,’ would come the answer. Then one of the middle men would swing out over the abyss while the rest of us hugged and gripped the rocks to save him and ourselves if he slipped. The rock on the north face, or roof, of the Matterhorn is rotten and crumbling. Loose fragments, half-imbedded in ice and snow, offered tempting but treacherous handholds. The rope had to be watched constantly, that it might not catch in a crevice and jerk the climber backward at the very moment when he was scaling a difficult place. It was from this sharp slope, not far from the summit, that Michel Croz, Messrs. Hadow and Hudson, and Lord F. Douglas* fell to their death down a mile of awful preci- pices. These last few hundred feet of the Matterhorn try the endurance even more than the skill of the climber, because the supreme test of nerve and muscle comes at the end of a most trying and continued climb. At about 10:30 A.M. we stood upon the summit,—a long narrow knife-edge, covered with snow through which rocks protrude here and there. It was so narrow in places that persons passing each other acted like boat- men trying to change places in a canoe on treacherous water. On the Italian side an immense snow cornice projected into space, ready to plunge downward with any one rash or insane enough to set foot on it. On the north side a gentle slope led to the edge of the awful precipice before mentioned. This slope must have been a rod or more in length in some places. But because it seemed to dip into bottomlessness not far from where we stood, no one manifested the slightest inclination to perambulate on it. The summit must look very different now from what it did when Edward Whymper first saw it in 1865. Frost and sunshine, rain and storm, are continually chisel- ing it into new forms. This, of course, means that the summit is constantly being lowered. At first I regretted * July 14, 1865. First ascent. Edward Whymper and the two Taug- walders alone survived. The body of Lord Douglas was never found. 84 Sierra Club Bulletin. that I did not have with me a Sierra Club register. But I doubt whether any records kept up there would be safe from one year to another. Lightnings constantly play on the summit during storms, and soon caus any metal object left up there. By ito o’clock the clouds had cleared away. The air had been washed clean by the rain, and we looked forth, as from the car of a balloon, upon an infinitely variegated world. Northward the central Pennine Alps crowded the foreground. The valley of Zermatt, so immense to the tourists who throng its hotels, seemed a very insig- nificant depression at the foot of the mountain. About fifteen miles northwest of us, in an air-line, towered the Mischabelhorner with their massive entourage of glaciers and lesser peaks. Southward the green valley of Val- tournanche sloped down into the highlands of northern [taly. ‘The whole of Switzerland, with Alps piled upon Alps, seemed to be lying at our feet. But there was not much time to enjoy the view. A piercing cold wind that swept the summit urged us to begin the descent. David had shown some symptoms of mountain sickness during the ascent. It was deemed wiser, therefore, not to give him the lead. After a brief parley it was decided that I should lead off during the descent, Burgener bringing up the rear. The distance from the summit to the shoulder required care. The wind had already obliterated our tracks so that I had to cut new steps in many places. To find the descent more difficult than the ascent is not an uncommon experience among Alpinists. It was ours also, especially down the sharp, icy slope of seven or eight hundred feet from the crest to the shoulder. In going down one is more vividly conscious of the precipices on account of the necessary centering of one’s attention on things below. It was be- tween noon and 1 o'clock when we arrived at the shoulder. A flask of brandy left there on our way up put David thoroughly on his feet again. But I kept the lead during the rest of the descent, which by comparison was i a a a An Ascent of the Matterhorn. 85 relatively easy. The sun became our greatest enemy now. Rocks pried loose by frost, and insecurely imbedded in ice and snow during the storm, left their moorings and went careening down the mountain-side. The danger from them was most imminent in the Great Couloir, for the rocks from a large area on the east face precipitate themselves through this gully. It takes ten minutes or more to traverse it. We had no sooner entered it than Burgener and David became terror-stricken. Each thought the other was going too slowly. Yet too great haste was to court danger of another kind. The character of the climbing left some things to be desired, and the bergschrund of the Furggen Glacier yawned through a blue haze far beneath. I was in the act of working around a sharp corner when a faint but ominous sound from above told us that a cannonade was coming. We all heard it about the same time, and instantly sought shelter by snuggling under the nearest projection on the face of the cliff. I was in an exposed position and tried to get back as quickly as I could. I managed to get out of harm’s way in the nick of time; just as I let go my last handhold the dread messengers arrived, “ Rattling with hollow roar down death’s decline.” One fragment of rock struck my hand in midair, and with such force that for a time I feared one of my fingers had received serious injury. It turned out to be only a severe contusion. The remainder of the descent was completed without any noteworthy incident. By 4 o'clock we had reached the Alpine cabin, where we stopped long enough to brew a cup of tea and to allow Burgener and David to tidy the part of the cabin which we had occupied. This shelter among the clouds has been erected by the Swiss Alpine Club, and may be used freely by all Matterhorn climbers, on the sole condition that the guides employed leave it in good order. Zermatt was aglow with lights as we passed the little churchyard where the remains of Hadow, Hudson, and 86 Sierra Club Bulletin. Michel Croz had been interred exactly forty years ago. A kinder fate had brought us, climbers of a later gen- eration, back again from that proud crest, “Where the white mists, forever, Are spread and upfurled— In the stir of the forces Whence issued the world.” The Name “Mt. Rainier.” 87 THE NAME “MT. RAINIER.’’ [The following communication is of such importance that its publication is considered desirable-—Eb1Tor. ] THE DIRECTORS OF THE SIERRA CLuB, SAN FRANCISCO. Genilemen: You have assigned to me the duty of making a report for your consideration upon the subject proposed by Mr. Charles F. Lummis; namely, to assist in having the name of Mt. Rainier changed to Mt. Tacoma. , Mr. Lummis’ letter of September 5, 1905, is addressed from “The Landmarks Club,” of which he is President; he is also the Editor of the Out West magazine, and has marked his opinions on the October and November num- Hers) In his letter he briefly asks the Sierra Club to join with the Landmarks Club “in an attempt to secure the restoration of the first name by which this noble peak was first known to men.” In the October number of the magazine, he writes ftiae the Sierra Club... ought to frown upon this historic impertinence, and ought to stand for the restora- tion of the historic name” (page 368); and in the No- vember number he again urges this club to act in the matter of having “the inappropriate name of Mt. Rainier changed back to its original form” (page 494). The subject is naturally one that interests the Sierra Club, which has given its support for the retention of the old Spanish names upon this coast, so far as seemed feasible and proper. Some of you are aware that for the last half-century I have used my best endeavors to identify and restore old Spanish names to important locations along this western coast from Cape San Lucas to Mt. St. Elias. The four editions of the Coast Pilot of California, 88 Sierra Club Bulletin. Oregon, and Washington, and one of Alaska, attest to that fact. As year after year I became more familiar with each mile of the coast line, and with the narratives of the early navigators, I entered upon the self-imposed task of writing the “Voyages of Discovery and Exploration on the Northwest Coast of America, from 1539 to 1603”; the “Identification of Drake’s Anchorage on the Coast of California in 1579”; and other works involving dis- coveries on this coast, by land and by water, and by Spaniards, English, French, and Americans. I have now ready for publication three hundred and ten manuscript pages on the “Discovery of San Fran- cisco Bay, and the Rediscovery of the Port of Monterey,” more than one hundred pages on the origin of the name California, and other matters of similar import. To aid me, I have obtained copies of manuscripts from the - British Museum, from Madrid, and elsewhere. I have believed in retaining and in applying all the old Spanish names; and have utilized Indian names when they were descriptive, and would use them all through Alaska where the prospector may need the services of native guides. During six years’ continuous service in the Puget Sound region, 1852-57, we retained the Indian, Spanish, and English names where they could be verified. The Hudson’s Bay Company factors and traders used Indian names. When there was no name for a permanent object avail- able, it was of course necessary to adopt some appellation to headland or rock or anchorage, in order that it could be recognized in the Government records and charts. In our publications, we have always expressed our admiration for the heroic labors of the early Spanish navigators on this coast; of the almost superhuman efforts of Bering and Chirikof; of the unequaled surveys of Cook and Vancouver; and of the daring and privations of the fur traders, English and American. The Name “Mt. Rainier.” 89 Within the last year, after years of waiting, we have received tracings from the originals of twelve early Span- ish surveys on the Northwest Coast, with hundreds of names which we have placed upon Coast Survey charts for the Bureau at Washington. They have no counter- part in the United States, and we hope to obtain others. We pray you will pardon this much of what we have been doing upon this coast since 1850, to gather the facts about the names thereon; but it seemed necessary to indicate that the matter of “historic” names had been constantly before us in geodetic and geographic work. It is now pertinent to ask, By what authority are geographic names applied to special land and sea objects? We need not go back to the early centuries; we must be governed by the methods and usages of recent date; and we may fairly assert that the first and highest authority is, (1) By governmental decree. After that we acknowl- edge (2) The accepted right of the discoverer in a new country with uncivilized inhabitants, or with no inhab- itants. (3) The long usage of geographers, navigators, trav- elers, and historians. (4) The general opinion of experts in either or all of the preceding sources of authority. (5) The striking peculiarity of the locality or object; and lastly, (6) The names adopted by any other country for geo- graphic objects; although this might be considered as coming under the first heading. Under the first source of authority, a case was pre- sented by the Government of the United States in the discussion of the proper location of the boundary-line between the United States and Great Britain from the parallel of forty-nine degrees through the Gulf of Georgia, Washington Sound, and the Strait of Fuca to the Pacific. It was declared that all the waters from go Sterra Club Bulletin. the forty-ninth degree of latitude in the Gulf of Georgia, to Olympia in the south, to the entrance of the Strait of Fuca at the Pacific entrance, should, “for the pur- poses of this discussion be known as Puget Sound.” A more recent case is that where Germany changed the names of all the islands and waters northeast of New Guinea, in the year 1884. The names used by the Dutch, English, and French from their early discoverers, and those names used by the natives, were wiped from the maps and geographies. Every trader had known the native and the previously adopted names, but “the maps have been modified in the spirit of a mistaken or aggres- sive patriotism,” etc. (Reclus, Volume Australia, page 319.) The accepted right of the early discoverers has never been traversed by competent geographic authority. Car- ver named the Oregon or Oregan from Indian reports, although he never saw it, but Robert Gray first entered the mouth and named it the ‘‘Columbia’s River,” after one of his vessels. Vancouver, who had failed at the entrance, promptly acknowledged Gray’s rights; and after Broughton, in the Chatham, surveyed it to Point Vancouver, Vancouver called it the Columbia River on his charts and in his narrative. Meares’ name of Cape Disappointment is retained, and Cape Hancock of Gray is forgotten, but Point Adams lives. Gray’s Bay in the Columbia is retained, and Gray’s Harbor remains. We need not refer to Wilkes (1841) applying the names of his officers to the islands of Washington Sound, and proposing to call the Sound the Navy Archipelago. They are reminiscences. The Spaniards, in 1774-93, Cook (1778), Vancouver (1792-94), were the early governmental discoverers and > explorers on the Northwest Coast after the discoveries of Bering and Chirikof in 1741. Neither party knowingly interfered with the original names given by the others. Vancouver’s narrative shows The Name “Mt. Rainier.” QI the friendly relations between him and the Spaniards, who generously gave him tracings of their earlier sur- veys; and he accepted names given by the fur traders. These men were exploring unknown regions inhabited by uncivilized peoples, whose language they had neither the time nor opportunity to learn. To give definition to their narratives and charts, they were compelled to adopt names for given objects of which they had first deter- mined the geographic position, and made known to the civilized world. No man has ever done more or better work than was done by Vancouver and his officers and men on this Northwest Coast, executed with dull sailing ships, and with instruments that would not be used to-day. He did not come upon “this coast for the purpose of securing it for English dominion” (Out West, page 368). His voyage was “undertaken by His Majesty’s com- mand, principally with the view to ascertain the existence of any navigable communication between the North Pacific and North Atlantic oceans.” For this purpose, he was directed to delineate the “Continental Shore”; and he completed a survey of discovery and exploration that is unique in the published history of geography. The assertion on page 368 of Out West, that “neither this coast nor this country is in his [Vancouver’s] debt,” is not warranted by the facts. There is no inlet on the Northwest Coast south of the Peninsula of Alaska, to the head of which his boats did not penetrate. His latitudes are remarkably close to the best determinations of to-day. We have observed at many places where he did, and never found an error in the latitude exceeding two geographic miles. In the conventions of 1822 to 1825 between Russia and the United States, and Russia and Great Britain, the only charts available for that long diplomatic controversy were those of Vancouver; by the decisions of those con- ventions Russia held all the Archipelago Alexander ; and in 1867 the United States purchased from Russia the 92 Sierra Club Bulletin. territory of Alaska, won by Vancouver’s silent but unan- swerable testimony. In 1849-52, Tebenkof, Captain of the first rank in the Russian Navy, and sometime Governor of Alaska, had published his great atlas of thirty-eight charts from Cape San Lucas to the Arctic. He adopted the scale and outline of Vancouver’s charts. In 1867, when we officially visited Alaska to make a geographic reconnaissance, and report upon the resources of that region, the United States revenue-cutter Lincoln, which carried our party, used the Tebenkof-Vancouver charts from Victoria through the interior passages, to the head of Lynn Canal, to Sitka, Kadiak, and the Aleutia Islands. These charts continued in use until the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, or the other branches of the Government, and the British Government, made more detailed surveys. In Vancouver’s application of names—and he was far from prolific—he was conforming to the precepts of his day and of his profession. That method has been fol- lowed to the present time; it is seen in the latest Antarctic explorations. If Roald Amundsen has discovered some new anchorage, some new channel, or located some moun- tain peak in the Arctic, he is entitled to name them or to apply the Esquimau designation. Geographers will asso- ciate his name with his discoveries.* Mts. Hood, St. Helens, Rainier, and Baker are found on Vancouver’s charts of the coast within the range of his discoveries. Each was unique in its mass and snow covering, and in their heights towering far above the general crest-line of the Cascade Range. He particularly mentions naming “Mount Rainier’ and “Mount St. Helens,” and his reasons therefor. *As we are reading the proof, we may add that, upon our suggestion, the Hydrographer of the Lords Admiralty and the Hydrographer of the U. S. Navy Department have directed that the name Amundsen Gulf be applied to that unnamed area of water in the Arctic between Cape Bathurst and Cape Baring, and be placed upon all official charts. The Name “Mt. Rainier.” 93 George Vancouver did not ignore Indian names, when- ever he could obtain them from the Spaniards and the fur traders. He had used all the Hawaiian names he could gather; and on this coast he refers to the promon- tory Classet, Tatooche’s Island, Clayoquot and Nootka sounds. The Indians he met with were not desirable com- panions, and he was not collecting folk-lore. He was presenting fresh discoveries in geography to the world; he was settling a commercial problem. His narrative and his charts indicate his acceptance of every Spanish name he could ascertain from the navi- gators and Catholic missionaries. He left the impress of his high character upon the good fathers and the Spanish officers through three years of intercourse; as he did upon Kamehameha and the Hawauians. One of the two principal magazines on the Pacific Coast devoted to mountain climbing is the “Mazama, a Record of Mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest,’ published at Portland, Oregon. The number for October, Igoo, is devoted to the ascent of Mt. Rainier, and the barometric determination of its height. Throughout the text no other name is referred to, and the illustrations carry the historical title June, 1897. In the annual number of Mazama, 1905, recounting the second ascent of Mt. Rainier by that body of snow peak climbers, and some of the members of the Sierra Club, a full and very accept- able array of incidents and impressions is presented by several writers; and in general the Vancouver name for the mountain is retained. Henry Gannett, the geographer of the United States Geological Survey, writes that “the King of all these volcanic cones of the Cascade Range is |Mount> Rainier.” One professor uses the name in “deference to supposed geographic authority”; but the consensus of expression is, “Mount Rainier.” The same can be said of the 1906 BULLETIN of the Sierra Cluh; the first title is ““The Sierra Club Ascent of Mt. Rainier.” The Weather Bureau Service uses the name; and very naturally the Joint Commissioners of 04 Sierra Club Bulletin. “the Mount Rainier National Park.” Also the State Geol- ogist of Washington, and the President of the Appa- lachian Mountain Club. Professor McAdie, who was on that ascent, remarks that all Vancouver’s names “have been graciously accepted and remain unquestioned save one, Mount Rainier.” Vancouver’s names upon this Western Coast are part of the history of geographic discovery and exploration, promptly given to the world in his narrative and charts; and have been unchallenged by geographers of all nationalities. They were adopted by the first settlers of Oregon; by the Americans who first came to the Puget Sound region; by the Territorial Government under Governor I. I. Stevens (retired major United States Army, after- wards killed at Chantilly); and naturally fell into use by the army officers at the military posts of Vancouver, Steilacoom (Tchil-i-com) and Port Townsend (Town- shend) ; and by the United States Coast Survey when working in the great arms of the sea from the entrance of the Strait of Fuca eastward, northward, and south- ward. Of course, they were in use by the factors and em- ployees of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who introduced Indian names when necessary. Even before the advent of the American as a settler, the United States Exploring Expedition under Wilkes used the names Baker, Rainier, St. Helens, and Hood, and they are on the published maps of 1841. From 1852 to 1857, both inclusive, when surveying in the Puget Sound waters, we never heard names other than those of Vancouver and the Spaniards. We sought Indian names as shown on the Neeah Bay sheet of 1852. In later years, we have learned that the Indian name of Rainier was Ta-gho’-ma, with a deep guttural stress on the second syllable. In July, 1857, when Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, U. S. A., was stationed at the military post at Steilacoom, he made The Name “Mt. Rainier.” 95 an attempt to reach the summit of the mountain, accom- panied by Surgeon R. O. Craig and Private Dogue. It was Mt. Rainier, although he had Indian guides, and he knew some of their language. During Governor Stevens’ term of office, he never used any other name. When P. B. Van Trump and Hazard Stevens made the ascent, in 1870, the published accounts called the mountain Rainier. In 1876, when General Hazard Stevens republished a more detailed account of that suc- cessful ascent in the Atlantic Monthly, the title was “The Ascent of Takhoma,” with this explanatory footnote: “Tak-ho’-ma, or Ta-ho-ma among Yakimas, Klickitats, Puyallups, Nisquallys, and allied tribes of Indians, is the generic term for mountain, used precisely as we use the word ‘mount, as Takhomah Wynatchie, or Mount Wynatchie. But they all designate Rainier simply as Takhoma, or The Mountain, just as the mountain men used to call it the ‘Old He.’”’ During the Indian War or 1855-56 in that region, the man who would have dared to suggest any Indian name to the mountain would have been tabooed ; but times and conditions have changed. In 1882, Hon. Elwood Evans, then of New Tacoma, (and a classmate with us in the Central High School of Philadelphia,) called together several old and reliable Indians to give him the proper name of the mountain. We give the result of this conference in the statement of Mr. Flett. The claim that the Indians on the east and west sides of the Cascade Range always called Mt. Rainier by the name Tacoma is not sustained by native evidence. This is clearly shown by the proceedings of the “Tacoma Acad- emy of Sciences,” published in pamphlet form in 1893. At this special meeting old and young Indians of the Puget Sound region insisted that their name of the moun- tain was “Tacobet.” Besides these Indians in attendance, there were letters read with over forty names of Indians who had declared O64. Sierra Club Bulletin. the name of the mountain as “Tacobet’; among these was the daughter of Chief Seattle. These Indians all belonged to the Puget Sound side of the mountain: a few belonging to or representing the east side of the mountain said “‘the old Indian name is and always was “Ta-ho-ma.’ ” Col. B. F. Shaw, who had been an Indian interpreter, wrote that the word Tacoma “belongs to the Scadgit Indian language, and means plenty of food or nourish- ment.” Mr. John Flett, who came to Puget Sound in 1841, gave evidence to Hon. Elwood Evans in 1882, that “the Indians from the east side of the mountains (the Klick- itats) call it Ta-ho-ma,” ... which “meant a woman’s breast.” ... Mr. Flett “translated their guttural expres- sions, which resulted in aggregating the word “Tahoma,’ though really no two Indians pronounced the word ex- actly alike,” (page 6). Mr. T. I. McKenney, at one time Superintendent of Indian Affairs, thought “the present ‘Tacoma’ was a cor- ruption of the Indian “Tacopa’ or ‘Ta-co-pe,’ which in Indian means white” (page 6). Theodore Winthrop, in his book published in 1862, had a Klickitat guide from Puget Sound to the Dalles, Columbia River, in 1853; and from this guide he obtained the name “Tachoma,”’ which several authorities say is strongly guttural. The address of Judge James Wickersham, covering the extracts we have quoted from the Proceedings of the Academy, is dated February 6, 1893. In August, 1883, Messrs. Geo. B. Bayley, of San Francisco, and P. B. Van Trump, of Yelm, made the ascent of Mt. Rainier to the southern peak or edge of the old crater; and at the close of the published descrip- tion, Mr. Van Trump writes: “Our neighbors of Taco- ma, and some late writers, are dropping the time-honored name of Rainier, and are giving the mountain its Indian appellation, but spell and pronounce it the same as the name of the would-be city of the West. If the Indian The Name “Mt. Rainier.” 97 name is to be adopted, why not give it also its guttural pronunciation, Tachoma, with the German sound to the letters ach?” In 1888, Mr. Van Trump again made the ascent with John Muir and William Keith. In a long letter which he wrote to us in September of that year, he says: “We did not, greatly to my disappointment, journey to and explore the north peak (which Stevens and I named Ta-ho’-ma), the party not being willing to stop long enough on the Mt. top to accomplish that purpose.” Aiter Winthrop, that is the first definite mention that we recall of the name being given to one of the three sum- mits of Mt. Rainier. And it may be permitted us here to state that our col- league on the United States Coast Survey, James Smyth Lawson, long a resident of Olympia, determined the geographic position of the three prominent points, and the heights of two of them trigometrically, in 1870—the “middle, highest peak,” 14,444 feet above the sea; the “south, lowest peak,” 14,279 feet. The former is 32’.77 of latitude north of the latter, and 2’’.28 of longitude west. We had made the first observations for position in 1856, and Lawson in 1867. When the citizens of Tacoma first proposed the change of the name Rainier, we do not remember, but communi- cations were made to the General Government before 1890. In that year, the Executive Order for the organiza- tion of the “United States Board of Geographic Names” was issued on the 4th of September by President Harrison. The following gentlemen composed the Board: Professor Thomas C. Mendenhall, U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, Chairman. Andrew H. Allen, Department of State. Captain Henry L. Howison, Light House Board, Treas- ury Department. Captain Thomas Tuttle, Engineer Corps, War Depart- ment. 98 — Sierra Club Bulletin. Lieutenant Richardson Clover, Hydrographic Office, Navy Department. Pierson H. Bristow, Post-Office Department. Otis T. Mason, Smithsonian Institution. Herbert G. Ogden, United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. Henry Gannett, United States Geological Survey. Marcus Baker, United States Geological Survey. Bulletin No. 1 of the Board was issued December 31, 1890, through the Smithsonian Institution; and on page 7 is this declaration: No. “170 Rainier Mt. Washington, U. S. Tacoma.” In the first edition of 1890-91, published in 1892, “Rainier Mt. Washington,’ page 35. In the first edition of the second report, 1890-99, Washington, 1900; “Rainier; mountain peak in Washington. (Not Ranier nor Ta- koma’) ; page 105. In the second edition of that report, 1901, “Rainier; mountain peak in Washington. (Not Ranier nor Tacoma’’) ; page 105. If there were any lingering and sympathetic doubt in the matter we add the following authority: “Tt is hereby ordered that there be added to the duties of the United States Board of Geographic Names, cre- ated by Executive order dated September 4, 1890, the duty of determining, changing, and fixing place names within the United States and insular possessions, and it is hereby directed that all names hereafter suggested for any place by any officer or employee of the Government, shall be referred to said board for its consideration and approval before publication. “In these matters, as in all cases of disputed nomen- clature, the decisions of the board are to be accepted by the departments of the Government as the standard authority. “THEODORE ROOSEVELT. “The White House, January 23, 1906.” This examination has extended beyond what we ex- pected to present, yet it seemed desirable not to appeal to any local prejudices, but to lead through good author- The Name “Mt. Rainier,’ 99 ity to that of the highest governmental decree. And we respectfully submit that in this instance such decree is in conformity with the usage of historians, geographers, and government records, through more than a century ; there- fore we suggest that the Sierra Club can take no action whatever in urging the use of the new name proposed for Mt. Rainier. Very respectfully and truly, your obedient servant, GEORGE DAVIDSON. 2221 WASHINGTON STREET, San FrRANcIscO, CAL., February 20, 1900. I00 Sierra Club Bulletin. THE SECOND KING’S RIVER OUTING. By Marion RANDALL. During the early part of the spring of 1906 there were indications of an unusually large enrollment for the sec- ond Outing to the King’s River Cafion. The members who had visited this region four years ago and those of us who were unacquainted with it were alike enthusi- astic ; and it seemed probable that transportation facilities would have to be taxed to the utmost to provide for the large party that was expected. But April, with its demol- ishment of well-laid plans, wrought havoc among the list even of the most loyal, while tidings of high water and lingering snow a little later alarmed the more timid among the tenderfeet until there remained only eighty intrepid Sierrans whom fire, ‘quake, and flood could not deter from their wanderings. Except for the one stageload of Southern California members who traveled by way of Visalia, the whole party forgathered at Sanger in the early dawn of July 3d, and there took stage for Sequoia Lake, a few miles be- yond Millwood, where we spent our first night under the open sky. Wednesday morning found us all ready to take the trail, and for three days we traveled in unevent- ful fashion through still forests of fir and pine, with here and there an open meadow or a flower-bordered stream to brighten the way. The lower trail, leading through Huckleberry Valley and Long Meadow, which we took to avoid the snows of the higher route, though longer than that by way of Horse Corral, has the advan- tage of passing through five or six small groves of sequoias after leaving the General Grant Park. Within the park one looks upon the giant trees with a somewhat ; ™ KINGS RIVER CANON, FROM COPPER MIN From photograph by J. N. Le Conte. a The Second King’s River Outing. IOI alien eye. They are set apart, fenced around, labeled, and made a show for the curious till half their charm is lost. But as one journeys farther from accustomed ways, where each new height brings a wider outlook into the stern gray heart of the mountain country, a turn of the trail brings one unexpectedly into a group of these silent, majestic trees. It is then that a more intimate sense of their beauty possesses one, the marvel of that life where ‘“‘a thousand years are but as yesterday,” and wonder, even admiration, is lost in reverence. We had heard that the King’s River was in flood, but I think few of us appreciated what that meant until we first caught sight of the foaming white torrent that raced through the cafion below Cedar Grove. It was a wicked- looking, dangerous river, full of swirls and eddies and treacherous backwaters whence some passionate, despair- ing living thing seemed to be fighting to escape. Willow bushes, borne down by the force of the rushing waters, barely lifted their straining tops above the current; trees outlining the normal banks stood six feet deep in water; and on one pine fairly in the middle of the stream a large placard gave futile warning of the danger from forest fires. Of course, bridges and footlogs had suffered a whole- sale destruction, and the main bridge, leading to our permanent camp, where a large part of the commissary supplies were already installed, had been swept away. Rangers and packers were already at work felling trees for its reconstruction; so we went into camp at Cedar Grove—and waited. As many of the Sierra Club men joined heartily in the work, the first stringer was very soon across. But unfortunately the river rose again, carrying away the log and leaving four honored members who had shinnied across upon it to join the workers on the other shore, marooned, with not even a toothbrush among them. In view of some such mishap, however, another plan had been perfected for a temporary bridge, utilizing the 102 Sierra Club Bulletin. remains of the old footlog which formerly spanned the river just above the mouth of Granite Creek. Nearly every man in camp fell to work on this; and the marooned men on the other shore, inspired by a longing for the solid comforts of their dunnage-bags, worked with such zeal that they not only did their full share of bridge con- struction, but likewise built a difficult piece of trail through a talus-pile in one place where the meadow was submerged. At the end of the week we moved to the permanent camp close under the Grand Sentinel, a spot dear to many a Sierran from the associations of four years ago. Here we found that our troubles were not yet at an end, for the bridge which led to the Bubb’s Creek trail was sadly in need of repairs. However, the bridge-builders decided to take a few days of rest and relaxation, and to that end a knapsack trip was planned into Paradise Valley. There is a trail into Paradise, but no one had been over it as yet, and no one knew what pitfalls snow and flood might have laid for the mules. So we left them behind and started, eighteen strong, with strange, unshapely bundles upon our backs and looks of conscious, joyous heroism on our faces. We chose the route by Mist Falls and over the talus-piles. Crossing a talus-pile does not mean merely walking. It means jumping, bending, reaching, crawl- ing over, under, through, and around boulders that may be as big as your house or as big as your hat, but which are sure to have sharp corners or unsteady foundations or slippery surfaces to work your undoing one way or another. We had about three miles of this before we reached Paradise, a cafion similar to the main South Fork, but wider, with broader meadows and more numerous waterfalls. Paradise Valley has a charm far surpassing that of the better-known cafion,—the indescribable charm of un- trodden ways. The meadows have a virgin freshness ; there is not a cabin nor a corral nor a sign of man’s SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATES XXI AND XXII. FIN DOME. From photographs by Marion Randall, 1906. The Second King’s River Outing. 103 occupation save the cluster of blackened stones that here and there marks the site of a wanderer’s camp. From end to end the river runs between wooded banks, now flowing dark and somber under the shadow of pines, now radiant and glimmering in the green diffused light under the twinkling aspens. It is such a happy river. It seems to have caught all the merriment and the exultation of the score of waterfalls that tumble down from the high country to join it. Nor is the more austere beauty of cliff sculpture wanting—massive creviced walls where the blue shadows linger till midday. Although disappointed in the fish we expected to catch, we found our little shelter among the pines a delightful camping-place, and were only sorry that we were not prepared for a longer stay. We spent the morning in a leisurely walk to the head of the valley, where four of us, separated from the others for the moment, had the good fortune to start a deer. Leaving Paradise in the afternoon, we had a most impressive view of a storm gathering on the high moun- tains which encircle the valley and which come into sight as one climbs the zigzig trail up the western wall,— Pyramid and Arrow peaks to the north; eastward, rising directly above the gulf of the valley, Mt. King and Mt. Gardiner, sharp gray peaks streaked with snow; and to the south and southeast, Brewer and the numberless peaks of the summit crest. Over all this long jagged chain the shifting clouds were scattering now sunlight, now shadow, veiling mountain-tops in ghostly mist gar- ments and sending little flickering sprites of sunbeams dancing up and down the cafion walls. Our camp that night, high among the tamaracks, near Goat Mountain, overlooked the same wide stretch of mountain land; and there in the intervals of homely camp toil, the making of fires, the cooking of food, and the washing of dishes (oh, blessed enchantment of mountain days!), we could watch the marvelous change from alpenglow to twilight with never a thought of incongruity to mar its wonder. 104 Sierra Club Bulletin. But herein, perhaps, lies one secret of the keen joy of gypsy ways,—there is enough of this contact of common things to make life sweet and wholesome. To walk with one’s eyes forever fixed upon the stars is just as narrow- ing to the field of vision as never to lift them from the ground. The next morning we met some twoscore Sierrans on top of Goat Mountain (12,800 ft.), a peak without pre- tensions either of great height or difficulty, but which nevertheless commands a splendid outlook over the Sierra from the Palisades to the Kaweahs. The climb was remarkable only for the diversity of routes chosen by the many separate parties. It is one of those mountains whose highest point is not determinable from below, and even some of those who escaped the lure of False Peak found themselves separated from the real summit by an insecure knife-edge and a treacherous bit of snow. But in their many and various ways one and all finally reached the top and in due time joyously coasted down the snow and made their way back to camp by the Copper Creek trail. This, as it happened, was the only mountain climb of the Outing, for even while undergoing repairs the bridge leading to the country about Bullfrog was swept down- stream. We were greatly disappointed, for we had ex- pected to have at least a week among the high mountains ; but in lieu of this all those who wished to do so were given the opportunity to visit Paradise Valley (with a pack-train this time), where we made voyages of dis- covery up the little-known cafions of Wood’s Creek and the upper Paradise Fork. The plan had been to take the mules only into Paradise ; but after spending two nights there many of us wished to journey still farther into the unknown country. Even the packer confessed to this longing; and while some members of the party were satisfied to return to the main camp, about twenty-five people, accompanied by the four animals who succeeded in swimming the river, SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE XXIII. KC age sa AN WSS * KING'S RIVER IN FLOOD. From photograph by Marion Randall, 1906. - Aes et med ‘Seen The Second King’s River Outing. 105 started up Wood’s Creek. From this time it was virtually a knapsack trip, for the animals could carry only the commissary, leaving each mountaineer to shoulder his own bedding. It was amusing to note how, as difficulty was added to difficulty, the lesser enthusiasts one by one dropped back into the straggling ranks of those return- ing to camp, until the fourth day saw but sixteen follow- ing the trail to the pass. It was not much of a trail,—that was the trouble. The advance sheet of the Geological Survey, the only map of that region yet published, showed the way through,— over the crest near Rixford and down to Lake Charlotte and Bullfrog,—but gave no hint of the tangled under- growth, the snowbanks, and the avalanche-furrows through which the plucky mules had to fight their way. Snow bridges over the lusty young river twice saved the day for the mules, and even the pedestrians were com- pelled to resort to unusual methods of crossing the trou- blesome stream, once making use of a great rubbish heap of splintered pine deposited in the stream-bed by avalanche and flood, and again resorting to that undigni- fied but wholly satisfactory form of ferry, riding double on a mule. It was a wild, sterile, rockbound place, this cafion of Wood’s Creek, and our mules found little cheer that night at our camp above Rae Lake. Indeed, there was at first cold comfort for either man or beast, for a heavy thun- derstorm drenched both us and the firewood, and the only available camping-ground was a granite oasis in a waste of snow—a dreary enough outlook, too, over the frozen lake to a wall of cold snow-peaks with a dark canopy of storm-clouds above. But supper and a cheer- fully blazing fire wrought an amazing change in things. The clouds parted at sunset; westward Fin Dome and the sharp summit of Mt. King rose blackly against the sky, barring the way to the sunset land; but Rixford and the circle of grim peaks to the south and southwest were softened and glorified in the evening light. And under SS ——— ee 106 Sierra Club Bulletin. the twisted tamaracks, where the fire now sparkled mer- rily, we sat contentedly and watched the pale crescent moon shining ever brighter as the darkness gathered, until it too dropped out of sight behind Fin Dome. The next morning’s undertaking was the most haz- ardous of the outing,—the crossing of Glenn Pass. The luckless mules had first to swim the narrow neck of water connecting the two basins of Rae Lake and then plow their way through the snow to the foot of the pass. Fortunately for us the snow was in perfect condition and gave the firmest footing possible under the circum- stances. A tongue of shifting rock led part way up the wall, but above this the snow was so steep that the mules were unpacked and led up it unencumbered, while the kyacks were carried to the summit by hand. It was anxious work watching their slow progress and realizing that a single flounder might mean the loss of an animal. Nor was our anxiety lessened on reaching the summit, for the other side of the pass looked fully as forbidding as the steep incline up which we had just labored. It proved to be less difficult than we anticipated, however, for the descent was made with only one slight mishap, one of the mules falling and having to be unpacked before he could be induced to rise. At Lake Charlotte we found only a few patches of meadow appearing through the snow, and Bullfrog, where we made our next camp, was likewise still frost- bound. So, as our provisions were running low, and as the mules needed better pasturage than the scanty vegeta- tion of the upper country afforded, we decided to journey down Bubb’s Creek the next morning to Junction Mead- ows and return to camp the following day instead of remaining at Bullfrog long enough to climb University Peak, as we had hoped to do. On the whole, and in spite of the many disappointing and enforced changes of plan, the Outing was exception- ally enjoyable. The unusual conditions gave rise to so many unusual experiences and laughable incidents that SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE XXIV. BLACK MOUNTAIN, FROM GLENN’S PASS. From photograph by Duncan McDufhe. The Second King’s River Outing. 107 we might well thank the tumultuous river for the trouble it thought to cause us. It has been a matter of pride with the Sierra Club that the management of its outings has been so perfected that the goodly fellowship of the multi- tude is exempt from the responsibilities and labors of normal camping experience; but I think that very few of those whose spirit and enthusiasm and good brawn went into the building of those bridges would exchange for the most perfect outing ever organized the consciousness of having with their own aching backs and blistered hands upheld one of the foremost aims of the Club—to make smooth the way for those who may follow. | : — a ee ee eee Satie AF TS Tegan 72 ena te enna SS 108 Sierra Club Bulletin. THE MOTION OF THE NISQUALLY GLACIER, MT. RAINIER.* By JosepH N. Le Conte. Mt. Rainier is an extinct volcanic cone situated in the western portion of the State of Washington. Its highest point, as determined by the U. S. Geological Survey, is in Latitude 46° 51’, and Longitude 121° 45’.5, and its altitude, according to the latest barometric measurements, is about 14,400 feet. The mountain rises in the midst of a heavily timbered region on the western slope of the Cascade Range. This region does not average over 4,000 feet above sea-level, so that the mountain rises as a great isolated mass, visible for many miles. The humid climate of this portion of the continent gives rise to an enormous precipitation along the coast, most of which falls between November and May. Above the level of 6,000 feet, almost the whole of this is in the form of snow. A system of glaciers is thus formed on Mt. Rainier, which has a common and continuous névé mass around the crater extending down the slopes for a distance of about a mile. Below this the névé masses become separated by thin rocky spurs, and finally con- solidate into a very perfect series of eleven radiating ice-streams, having a striking resemblance on a map to the rays of a starfish. The circle which includes the ends of these glaciers at the present time is about ten miles in diameter. During the summer of 1905, the writer, as a member of the Sierra Club’s Outing to Paradise Park on the south slopes of this mountain, had the opportunity of making a few measurements of the motion of the Nis- re ee in ‘“‘Zeitschrift fair Gletscherkunde,” I. Band, 1906, edited by Professor Dr. Ed. Brickner and published by Gebriider Boru- traeger, Berlin, S. W. 11 Dessauer Strasse, 29.—EDITOr. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. HEAD OF NISQUALLY GLACIER. (SHOWING THE FIRST 8,000 FEET OF VERTICAL DESCENT. ) From artotype in Nature Magazine. PLATE XXV The Motion of the Nisqually Glacier. 109 qually Glacier during the month of July. The position of the end of the glacier was determined, and other of its characteristics noted, in the hope that future observers may be able to determine the changes that take place as time goes on. The Nisqually Glacier takes its rise on the southern rim of the crater, and for the first three miles of its course has a direct southerly trend. The eastern side of its trough is formed by a high conspicuous mass of rock known as Gibraltar, and the western side by a relatively low rocky spur separating it from the next large glacier in that direction, the Kautz. Within the first three miles the main névé stream makes a total descent of about 8,000 feet, and the surface is broken by enormous ice-falls and faults. The average slope in this part is therefore about thirty degrees, and the average width, including its west- ern tributary, the Stevens Glacier, may be taken at a mile and a quarter. At the end of this steep descent the grade decreases to about ten degrees, and the ice here forms a great crevassed field into which the Stevens Glacier falls over a sheer cliff about 300 feet high. A little farther on the ice becomes fairly consolidated and turns to the southwest, maintaining this trend throughout the rest of its course. A mile below the junction of the Stevens, the glacier passes over an ice-fall, descending perhaps 500 feet in a quarter of a mile. The surface is here cut by large transverse crevasses into an almost impassable mass of séracs. Below the ice-fall the stream again consoli- dates into a beautifully smooth glassy surface, with only small fractures a few feet in width. The slope of this part for over a mile is about eleven degrees. Marginal crevasses now begin to show in a marked degree, and these become larger and larger through lateral melting as the snout is approached. The ice ends abruptly in a very steep slope at an altitude of about 4,000 feet. The eastern side of the glacier is strewed with rock and sand for a breadth of from 300 to 600 feet. The spur of rock between the main stream and the Stevens eS ee = STE —— Se eee ore en — IIO Sierra Club Bulletin. Glacier gives rise to a very perfect medial moraine, about one third the glacier’s width from its western edge. A high bluff of lava just below the junction of the Stevens furnishes material for a heavy lateral moraine on the western side also, leaving but a narrow strip of clear ice between it and the medial. The medial moraine in the upper reaches of the glacier is a mere train of débris on the surface. Lower down it forms a ridge, and about a thousand feet back from the snout this ridge is over eighty feet high. Nowhere, however, does the skin of débris average more than six inches to a foot in thick- ness, the core of the ridge being clear ice, which is protected from more rapid melting by the covering. The motion of the glacier was measured accurately at a point about 3,000 feet from the snout. Here the sur- face was smooth and free from crevasses, and the sides of the stream almost parallel. A white stake about two inches square was set in a pile of rocks on top of one of the ancient border moraines on the east side, 300 feet from the eastern edge of the glacier, and about fifty feet above its surface. This will for convenience be called the East Base. A second stake, the West Base, was set on the opposite bank on a ledge of granite about the same height above the surface. These stakes were intervisible, and the distance between them as determined by triangu- lation was 1,944 feet. A transit-instrument was set over the East Base, sighted on the western one, and a line run across the glacier. The usual method of observing the motion of a glacier is to measure the movement of rods placed in holes bored in the ice. In the present instance, owing to inexperi- ence, and to the difficulty of transportation, the auger used for boring the holes was but fourteen inches long, and it was found that a wooden rod placed in so shallow a hole was almost certain to fall over in the course of a day, on account of the rapid melting at the point of contact between the rod and the ice. As a consequence no rods were placed in the holes at all, but these latter VIEW ACROSS NISOUALLY GEANCIER ROM TET AST BASic. From photograph by J. N. Le Conte. __—s— ._ Cit: iés.UwitéaCwtidétsUdtidtttdttdétO#étit#tiOw#étidétiwaoeee__e_e_e_e_eeee_e_e__e=eee = The Motion of the Nisqually Glacier. | LIT were left open, their positions being identified by small piles of stones a few feet down-stream. Their size in- creased slightly in the course of two days, but the circular form was perfectly preserved, enabling a measurement to be made to the center of a hole with an accuracy of two or three tenths of an inch. They were rebored every two days. The locations of the various holes with relation to one another and to the edges of the glacier are as follows :— Paster edge’to No. Bile c. coe. .... 200 feet. SUNIORT ©) 2 yy DMO. Deen cpe ae etait ae LR ae 205%.) INGO Zip WOR, Bis se) loi ey aee nae eh) sitet Wen INOW Sains NiO a ea ule ay, HOS Wie ON WAE ING aac ig Osten inca ace 147) INOS Sir INO A Ont ako ue oA 103)“ INOS OM NON NOTE Soe es a 50 Ww. INO Ding UNO Oh nahi Gis Meee bills 6 200) NOM SP IN@W Oi mal cs rena sik ie Se ¥79\.'" No. 9 “ Western edge.....:.... 7c Na Wotal width: of the @lacier... 4.665054). 1,483 feet. Figure A is a plan on this line, and Figure B a profile. The distances were measured with a hundred-foot steel tape. Hole No. I was in the middle of the west lateral moraine, which is here 400 feet wide. Nos. 2, 3, 4, and 5 were in the clean white ice of the main stream, No. 6 in the top of the medial moraine, and No. 7 a short distance west of it, but this hole was lost soon after the measurements were begun. No. 8 was in the narrow strip of clear ice west of the medial, and No. 9 near the edge of the western lateral moraine. The positions of these holes may not be the best, but they were in general necessary for clear seeing from the transit stations. Holes Nos. 1-6 were observed from the East Base, and the others from the West Base. The base-line was not exactly at right angles to the axis of the glacier, which is assumed to be parallel to the sides; the sides having a very gentle curvature for a mile above the section meas- SEARS - —— = = ————— —=— — SSeS — ~ a Se So — ———— = =~ ———— SS —s enced aeTEaS II2 Sierra Club Bulletin. ured. But measurements were made at right angles to the base-line as selected, and a very slight correction was made to obtain the true velocity. The slope of the surface of the ice midway between holes 3 and 4 was eleven degrees, and the distance from the line to the snout was 2,950 feet. The results are collected in the table, and are shown graphically in the figures. All measurements were made about 10 A.M., and the daily motions are for twenty-four hours. MOoTION OF THE IcE oF NISQUALLY GLACIER, JULY, 1906. DAILY MOTION IN INCHES DISTANCES OF HOLES IN FEET HOLES | july isth | July 20th | July 22d | July 26th || July 18th |————_ A to a to From east | From west July 20th | July 22d | July 26th zy 28th || July 28th edge edge SO Sie ti LO 9.4 || 11.8 | 200 13.6) 07,38@))) 14.9) 1257) lo.) 405 ES SZ OD TS, ea GRD eens 22.4 | 14.2} 13.38 || 15.8 | 663 15.0 | 21.1 | 14.5 | 12.8 || 15.6 | 810 15.0 | 21.7 | 13.6 | 12.5 || 15.2 | 973 | 510 15.0 | 19.0 460 12.4 }15.7 | 10.2 | 10.4 || 11.8 254 7.9 5.0 5.7 6.1 15 ONO FrwWNW Ee fo On S eo) or) OO July 18-20—Weather fair but cool. July 20-22—Weather warm, dry wind. July 22-26—Weather fair, changing to cloudy. July 26-28—Weather cloudy, and raining. The more rapid movement of the center is evident. It also appears that the eastern part of the section moved more rapidly than the western part, and that the point of maximum velocity is in the neighborhood of hole No. 3. This is due to the fact that the glacier is not perfectly straight, but is sweeping around a gentle curve with the convex side to the east. A marked variation of velocity occurs between the different periods, which seems to be caused by changes in the rate of melting due to changes SLATE XXVIT. No9. i ? . €: 2 > = > 4 = Rss . SIBRRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL, VI. PLATE XXVIT. E. Base Nob. Now No,9. Medial west East. Lateral Lateral Fig. B- ° 100 200 Soo 400 $20 Feet Scale for Distances. C) cy 10 15 Feet Scale for Movements. Ye eR See cates els sedan oi eel ‘. pe, cal we f : 5 a cain Td iasetainechealaatiaienlana 4 yah, Me be 7 i HU GS ee ares The Motion of the Nisqually Glacier. 113 in the weather. The weather had been cold and stormy previous to July 17th. On that day it cleared off, and a reconnaissance of the glacier was made. The holes were bored on the 18th, and between that date and the 20th, when the first measurement was made, the weather continued fine though cool. Professor A. G. McAdie, of the U. S. Weather Bureau, noted a mean temperature of 55° F. on the glacier during the day of the 18th, and the following day was a trifle warmer. The 2oth and 2Ist were warm, clear days, with the temperature on ~ the glacier averaging 70° to 75° F. at noon, and with a strong wind blowing from the north. From the 22d to the 26th, the days were cool and clear (about 60° F.), while from the 26th to the 28th the weather was stormy, with rain much of the time. In order to ascertain whether or not the upper por- tions of the glacier moved at a more rapid rate, a sight was taken on July 22d on a large boulder in the middle of the glacier, and about a half-mile above the base-line. It was sighted again on the 28th, at the same time of day, and was found to have moved about nine feet. This gives a mean daily motion of about eighteen inches during the period, but the method is not susceptible of much accuracy. A rough minimum measure of the amount of surface melting can be obtained from the changes in the depth of the holes. The depth of each was measured when first bored, and whenever deepened. The lateral melting was small, and it is probable also that the melting at the bottom was also small. As there was no freezing at any time during the observations, the surface melting could not have been less than the changes in the depth of the holes. These measurements were so irregular as to show no general law, except a distinct increase on the two hot days above mentioned. The mean rate of surface melt- ing and evaporation thus obtained by twenty-eight meas- urements on all parts of the line was 4% inches per day, which is probably not far from the true value. ET SSS SIE A EEE a TER EE FE TI == a —— —— = = = a a = a ama a es = . ~— 2 a, a _ae SI I ae a 114 ee Sierra Club Bulletin. On July 27th a monument was built on a granite ledge near the old trail between Paradise Park and Longmire’s Springs, and directly opposite the glacier’s snout. This monument was about ten feet to the left and above the trail. The bearing from this point to the end of the glacier was about N. 80° 30’ W., magnetic. The angle included between the end of the glacier and the right-hand edge of Gibraltar Rock was 70° 53’, and between the end of the glacier and the summit of Tumtum Mountain, 54° 00’. It is hoped that this will help future observers to determine something positive concerning the retreat of the glacier’s snout. _ The writer desires to express his thanks to Mr. James Hutchinson, and other members of the Sierra Club, with- out whose aid the measurements could not have been made. Also, to Professor Harry Fielding Reid for his kindness in suggesting methods of procedure, and in criticising the results. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PLATE XXVIII. TLEHRIPATE DOME,* MIDDER, FORK OF Aci IG’S RIVER. From photograph by J. N. Le Conte. Report on King’s River Canon and Vicinity. 115 REPORT ON THE KING’S RIVER CANON AND VICINITY. To THE PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES, To THE SECRETARY OF AGRICULTURE, AND To THE FORESTER: We beg to submit for your consideration the following report :— This report has been inspired by the grandeur and magnifi- cence of the scenery of the King’s River Cafion and the adjacent region. This includes the Tehipite and Paradise valleys and the High Sierra, where the two main branches of the King’s River—the South and Middle forks—and their tributaries rise. The Sierra Club has visited this region on two of its annual Outings—in I902 and again in 1906. Because of its inaccessibility, comparatively little is known of this extensive mountain park which lies in the upper drainage basin of the King’s River. At the present time the trip entails many miles of arduous stage- riding and travel over rough mountain trails. However, the Legislature of California, in 1905, appropriated $25,000 for build- ing a road into the main cafion, provided Fresno County would appropriate $12,500 for the same purpose. This has been done, and the work of surveying the line of this road is nearing com- pletion. The road itself should be finished within the next year or two. The object of this report is twofold. We wish to make this region better known and aid in attracting the attention of the traveling public to it. One of the main purposes of the Club is “to publish authentic information concerning” the Sierra. The other object of this report is “to enlist the support and co- operation of the people and the Government in preserving the forests and other natural features” of the Park and “render them accessible.” If we attract the public eye to this wonderful region and induce the Government to assist in making it more accessible and in protecting it from threatened encroachments, we shall have accomplished all that could be desired. KING’S RIVER CANON. Probably the question oftenest asked of one who has visited the King’s River Cafion is “How does it compare with Yosemite?” That it has Yosemite-like characteristics is certain. John Muir, 116 Sierra Club Bulletin. in an article published in the Century Magazine for November, 1891, (Vol. XXI, page 78,) points out many of the striking resemblances. Professor Joseph Le Conte, in an article which. appeared in Sunset for October, 1900, says: “There can be no doubt that King’s River Cafion belongs to the same type as Yosemite and Hetch Hetchy. They are all Yosemites,—i. e. valleys with vertical walls and flat floors, as contrasted with the usual V-shaped valleys of mountains generally. In King’s River the walls are equally high and equally vertical, and the floor similarly, although not equally, flat.’ To compare these two wonderful valleys except in a most general way is as difficult as to compare two great epics, and after all the result would be most unsatisfying. To use Professor Joseph Le Conte’s words, “Doubtless, for aggregation of striking features within a limited area, and especially for the splendor of its many waterfalls, Yosemite stands unrivaled, not only in Cali- fornia, but in the world. But there is a peculiar, though gentler, charm also in the foaming rapids so characteristic of King’s River and its branches. If Yosemite is far superior in its falls, and also in its extensive meadows and the variety of its foliage, King’s River is far superior in its surrounding mountain scenery. King’s River Cafion branches and rebranches, becoming deeper and wider and grander until it deploys and loses itself among the highest peaks and grandest scenery of the Sierra.” It is difficult to improve on this brief comparison. One has but to examine the “Yosemite” and “Tehipite”’ quadrangles (maps issued by the U. S. Geological Survey), in which the respective valleys lie, to appreciate the truth of Professor Le Conte’s state- ment that it is in its surrounding mountain scenery that King’s River Cafion is far superior to Yosemite and not in the features of the immediate cafion itself. The floor of Yosemite is about 4,000 feet in elevation, while that of King’s River Cafion is about 4,500 feet. The divide immedi- ately north of Yosemite, which separates the Merced drainage basin from that of the Tuolumne, is composed of rolling granite ridges, for the most part forest covered, and with insignificant points jutting out here and there, none of which much exceed 9,000 feet in altitude. On the other hand, the stupendous Monarch Divide, which towers to the north of the King’s River Cafion and shuts it off from the Middle Fork and Tehipite Valley, rises far above the timber-line in a jagged crest varying from 11,000 to 11,500 feet in height, and culminates in Goat Mountain, whose summit is 12,203 feet above sea-level, or more than 7,500 feet above the floor of the cafion. Directly to the south of Yosemite the highest points on the divide do not rise much above 9,000 Report on King’s River Canon and Vicinity. 117 feet, while there are many points on the corresponding divide south of the King’s River Cafion which are over 11,000 feet high. Avalanche Peak is 11,265 feet in altitude, and is but two miles distant from the cafion walls. We have gone thus into detail to indicate to even the casual observer the tremendous advantage the region surrounding King’s River Cafion possesses over the similarly situated Yosemite region by reason of the greater depths and heights of the former and its consequent wealth and variety of mountain sculpture. The King’s River Cafion has no falls that compare in grandeur with the Yosemite, Nevada, Vernal, and Bridal Veil of Yosemite Valley, nor any gigantic rock forms that are as wonderful as Half Dome or El Capitan. However, the cliffs of the Grand Sentinel in King’s River Cafion compare favorably with anything else in Yosemite, and the Roaring River Falls and Mist Falls of the cafion will not suffer by comparison with any falls in Cali- fornia outside of Yosemite, and are unique, possessing a rare picturesqueness and local color of their own. Mist Falls in particular are as remarkable an exhibition of dashing spray, leaping foam, and driving mist as can be found anywhere. In short, Yosemite and the King’s River Cafion are both tremendous valleys sunk in the middle of the including drainage basins of each; but while the Yosemite is by far the more won- derful valley, the surrounding mountain-peaks which guard the King’s River Cafion to the north and south tower in im- posing masses almost 2,000 feet higher above its floor than do the corresponding and less impressive points which delimit the Yosemite drainage basin. PARADISE VALLEY. Proceeding up the South Fork, or Paradise branch, of the King’s River, which turns at almost a right angle at the head of the main cafion, we pass several beautiful falls, including Mist Falls, and after a lively scramble over talus from the inclosing cliffs, and through brush, the lower end of Paradise Valley is reached in the short space of three miles. This valley in many respects bears a similar relation to the King’s River Cafion that the valley of the Little Yosemite does to the main Yosemite. It is about three miles in length, having rather a narrow floor, carpeted with several charming velvety meadows through which winds the crystal river, forming at every turn emerald pools that make the fisherman’s heart beat with thought of the trout that might lurk in their depths. Beautiful groups of fir and pine are scattered throughout. The walls of this valley are Yosemite-like and are flanked on the west by Goat Mountain 118 Sierra Club Bulletin. and on the east by Mts. King and Gardiner, each nearly 13,000 feet in altitude. Over these walls several streams tumble in fantastic lace-like cascades. At the extreme head of the valley a rocky knoll juts out from the westerly wall. From its summit is a view that for comprehensiveness and grandeur it would be difficult to duplicate. It stands at the junction of three immense cafions—the Paradise Valley, the Paradise Gorge, and Wood’s Cafion. Immediately opposite tower the castellated cliffs of the Muro Blanco, over which pours Arrow Creek in zigzag cascades of foaming water and iridescent spray. The sources of the Paradise River are in an almost unknown and inaccessible region of lakes, meadows, and towering peaks. THE BASIN OF WOOD’S CREEK. Leaving Paradise Valley and following up Wood’s Creek past Castle Domes, one finds that its various branches rise amid a bewildering maze of lakes. One of the branches of the South Fork of this creek heads in Sixty Lake Basin while the South Fork itself flows through a succession of the most exquisite bodies of water of the richest and deepest sapphire imaginable. The uppermost of these is Rae Lake, over a mile in length, and situated in an amphitheater of encircling peaks which range from 12,000 to 13,000 feet in height. Fin Dome, Mt. Rixford, Black Mountain, and Diamond Peak seem almost to overhang the lake with their gigantic bulk; their dark, threatening cliffs, streaked with snow and mirrored in the lake at their base, make a picture as sublime as any to be found in the whole Sierra. THE BASIN OF BUBB’S CREEK. Crossing Glenn Pass (12,000 ft.) with the trail in its present condition is not an easy task, but it can be made passable without great expense, and to enter in this way the Basin of Bubb’s Creek and its tributaries is well worth the effort. The trail drops down to Lake Charlotte and thence over a low divide to Bullfrog Lake, where it branches, and one may cross the main crest of the Sierra at the famous Kearsarge Pass and descend to Independence. The scene from the vicinity of Bullfrog is of wildest grandeur. University and Stanford peaks, Crag Ericson, Mt. Brewer, and nameless others, rise to a height of nearly 14,000 feet, and East Lake and Lake Reflection are not far from the trail down Bubb’s Creek Cafion, which brings one back into the main King’s River Cafion. It is no exaggeration to state that the scenery which one finds on the round trip just described is as wonderful as exists any- SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL. VI. PARADISE VALLEY, LOOKING UP TOWARD MURO BLANCO AND ARROW CREEK FALLS. From photograph by J. N. Le Conte. PLATE Report on King’s River Cation and Vicinity. 119 where within the same limits, and we predict that this trip is destined to become one of the most famous in the entire Sierra. ROARING RIVER BASIN. The Roaring River Basin, which tumbles its waters over the falls into the King’s River Cafion, is inaccessible from this direction, but can be readily entered from the west. One can easily spend a delightful summer in this basin, visiting its meadows, falls, lakes, cafions, and peaks, and Mt. Brewer, from the summit of which one of the most comprehensive views of the High Sierra can be obtained, is quite accessible from this side.* THE MIDDLE FORK OF KING'S RIVER. The major portion of the basin of King’s River north of the Monarch Divide is drained by the Middle Fork and its tribu- taries. This stream is very nearly the same size as the South Fork, and the region through which it passes is the wildest, most magnificent, and difficult of access of any portion of the Sierra. The main cafion of the Middle Fork is about twenty miles in length. Near its upper end is the beautiful Simpson Meadow, the garden-spot of the southern Sierra. Twelve miles below this is the Tehipite Valley, the Yosemite of the Middle Fork. Here the stream has cut a cafion nearly 4,000 feet deep, with splendid clear granite cliffs. The Tehipite Dome on the north wall is the finest rock face to be found in the Sierra out- side of the Yosemite Valley itself. It ranks second to El Capi- tan and Half Dome alone, and in many respects is not their inferior. It rises as a clean-cut, absolutely vertical precipice, 3,700 feet from the river to the top of the perfect hemispherical cap. The cafion between this valley and Simpson Meadow is fine throughout its entire extent, and it would be largely fre- quented by tourists were it not for the roughness of the trails. THE HIGH SIERRA OF THE KING’S RIVER REGION. The Middle Fork heads in a vast quadrilateral area between the Main Crest and the Goddard and Woodworth divides, all of which ranges are practically impassable to pack-animals. Through the middle of this it has cut a profound cafion from its fountainhead near Grouse Valley to its lower reaches near Simpson Meadow. This cafion is now entirely impassable to pack-animals. The mountains about the head of the river are among the highest in the State. Mt. Goddard (13,602 ft.) and *See Stewart Edward White’s recent book, entitled ‘“‘The Pass,’’ which describes this region. 120 Sterra Club Bulletin. the grand array of the Palisades, which average from 13,700 to 14,200 feet, are the finest. The southern extremity of this latter range terminates at Split Mountain (14,076 ft.) near the ‘point where the Monarch Divide joins the Main Crest. South of this is the great wilderness of the South Fork, where the peaks are scarcely inferior in height to those of the Middle Fork. The stream rises in an extremely elevated basin near the base of the South Palisades, and finally falls into a beautifully tim- bered valley to the north of Arrow Peak. From this it breaks through a deep gorge to pour into the upper end of Paradise Valley. The mountains in this region have been but little explored, owing to its inaccessibility. South of Mt. Pinchot (13,471 ft.) the drainage is tributary to Wood’s Creek, and the region is somewhat easier of access on account of the old sawmill trail which follows up its gorge. South of Wood’s Creek is Bubb’s Creek, whose remarkable scenic features have already been touched upon. ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Sanger-Millwood Route—This is the route most generally traveled for reaching the cafion. The Southern Pacific Railroad takes one (via Fresno) to Sanger. From this point the King’s River Stage Company (R. H. Gallagher, manager) runs a stage line to Millwood, forty-five miles distant. Millwood is a lumber camp situated at an elevation of about 5,000 feet, where there is a small general merchandise store. P. A. Kanawyer runs a pack-train from Millwood into the King’s River Cafion, which is about thirty-five miles distant by either the upper or lower trail. Mr. Kanawyer will provide parties with pack-animals and outfit, and one may board at his camp in the cafion during the summer months. On the way to the cafion and but a little over a mile from Millwood is the famous General Grant National Park, containing a fine grove of sequoia, or big trees. The Gen- eral Grant is one of the most perfect and largest specimens living. The lumber-mill in this vicinity is well worth visiting. It handles the largest logs in the world, some of them being over twenty feet in diameter. However, it is heart-rending to see these monarchs of the forest, which have stood for millenniums, cut down in their prime. . Visahia-Giant Forest Route-—Another way to reach the cafion is to leave the railroad at Visalia, take an electric line to Lemon Cove, and thence travel in Broder & Hopping’s stage to the Giant Forest. Broder & Hopping maintain a camp at the latter point, and will outfit parties desiring to visit the cafion. The Giant Forest and vicinity is a wonderful region, but it will not be described here, since it is the intention of the Club to in- SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN, VOL, VI. PLATE XXX. hie a 7 b] ‘) SIMPSON S MEADOWS, MIDDLE FORK OF KINGS RIVER. From photograph by J. N. Le Conte. Report on King’s River Canon and Vicmty. 121 corporate a description of it in a report on the Kern River Cajfion, which will be issued in some future year. Visalia-Big Meadows Route—There is a road, also leading from Visalia, which takes one into the Big Meadows, but the upper end of this road is not in the best of repair, and there is no stage-line operating on it. Big Meadows is only ten or twelve miles by trail from the King’s River Cafion, and though travel by trail is so materially shortened, this route is seldom used. Independence-Kearsarge Route-——The King’s River Cafion can also be reached by trail via Independence and Kearsarge Pass (nearly 12,000 feet in elevation); but this pass can seldom be crossed earlier than July on account of the snow. THE STATE ROAD. Most of the routes by trail will be abandoned upon com- pletion of the new road into the cafion. This will follow the general route of the Lower trail from Millwood via General Grant Park and Long Meadow until it crosses Ten-Mile Creek. From this point it will descend to the main King’s River, which it will cross by bridge just below the mouth of Boulder Creek. It will then follow up the north side of the river, keeping near it until it reaches the King’s River Cafion proper. The Chairman of this committee recently had a conversation with Mr. Ellery, State Highway Commissioner, who has charge ' of the construction of this road, and Mr. Ellery stated that the survey was nearly complete, and that the actual construction of the road would be commenced early in 1907, and would probably be complete some time in 1908. Mr. Ellery was very enthusiastic over the route selected, stating that the scenery in the main gorge of the King’s River in the vicinity of the proposed bridge below the mouth of Boulder Creek was as magnificent as any he had ever seen. Limestone cliffs of dazzling whiteness descend sheer into the river, while the tremendous cafion and foaming rapids of the river itself will make this mountain route famous for its picturesque beauty. When completed, this road will open up and make accessible to the traveling public all the wonderful scenic features of this wild mountain park. THE FOREST SERVICE. The entire region which has been described in this report is embraced in the Sierra Forest Reserve. The public is to be congratulated that this region has for these many years been under the wise protection of the forest reserve system, which has been brought to its present standard of excellence through 122 | Sierra Club Bulletin. the able management of Mr. Gifford Pinchot. The bands of sheep which once rendered desolate and barren the beautiful mountain meadows and valleys have long since been excluded, and the flower-gardens and lawns of the High Sierra are again flourishing in their pristine beauty. Mr. Charles H. Shinn, Forest Supervisor, and, under him, Mr. McLeod, Head Ranger of the King’s River region, and his assistant rangers, are doing most excellent work along the lines of duty laid down by the forest service. Mr. Shinn especially has grasped the spirit of the reserve, and is doing splendid work in harmonizing the va- rious interests which exist within the reserve. FOREST RESERVE OR NATIONAL PARK? While we, as members of the Sierra Club, which aided in the establishment of the forest reserves, appreciate to the fullest extent their great value, yet we feel that this entire region em- ‘braced in the upper drainage basin of the South and Middle forks of the King’s River, or at least the greater portion of it, should be placed on the same basis as other lands which are embraced within National parks. Whether it should be made a National park in name or whether it should remain a part of the Sierra forest reserve is not vital. The desired results can just as well be obtained, for the present at least, under the efficient supervision of the present forest reserve management. The only question which can possibly arise in this connection is as to whether the present forest reserve system is intended to provide for the situation which confronts us in relation to the King’s River Park. As we understand the reasons for the establishment of the forest reserves, they are to aid in con- serving the forests and water and grazing areas of the lands which they include, and to supervise their use, having in view the best interests of the public at large. As we understand it, the reserves have been established for utilitarian purposes only, and in order that the timber may be cut and the water used for power and the grazing land be pastured to the best possible economic advantage. In other words, their object is primarily commercial in its nature. On the other hand, we feel that in the case of most of the area described in this report the commercial element should be eliminated almost entirely if not absolutely. The scenery of the region described is by far too wonderful and sublime to permit of the destruction or alteration of any of its component parts. No portion of the forests should be cut for lumbering purposes, and in fact most of it is too inaccessible to be com- mercially valuable; the beautiful falls should not be despoiled Report on King’s River Canon and Vicinity. 123 for power purposes, nor should the limited grazing area be used by others than, the campers and travelers who journey thither to view the natural wonders of the park. In this limited region the esthetic and scenic features are of paramount importance. Their commercial value even, in attracting the countless numbers who some day will visit this scenic area, will outweigh all other considerations. This area should be permanently set aside “for public use, resort, and recreation.” The wild animals within its borders should also be preserved as they are in National parks. Whether all this can be accomplished under the existing forest reserve laws and regulations, and sufficient protection afforded, is a question the determination of which can best be left to the officials directly concerned. In view of the fact that it seems highly probable that the management and care of the National parks will be transferred to the Department of Agriculture in the near future, this question may readily solve itself. We do not wish to be misunderstood and to arouse unnecessary opposition on the part of private owners, who might get a false idea of just what we wish to accomplish and who might imagine that we were attempting to impair their rights. At the present time we have in mind the creation of a park area which shall not extend much farther west than the lower end of the “King’s River Cafion” and of the Tehipite Valley, and which shall embrace the major portion of the drainage basin of both the Middle and South forks of the King’s River to the east of these points. RECOM MENDATIONS. Aside from our main recommendation that this region be set aside as a park area, there are several minor suggestions which ‘we most respectfully present to the Forest Service and request that favorable action be taken thereon and that the suggestions be carried out in the near future. It is most desirable that this should be done before the State road has been completed. 1. We consider of utmost importance the construction of a trail leading from the King’s River Cafion up to Paradise Val- ley, following along the north side of the river. By constructing this trail of some three miles in length, the necessity of a detour of nearly ten miles and a climb of nearly 4,000 feet will be obviated. While portions of this trail will be expensive to con- struct, it is very short, and the difficult sections constitute only a small part of the entire length. It will open up a most won- derful region, and its importance cannot be too greatly em- phasized. A bridge should also be constructed in Paradise Val- ley over the main river a short distance above the mouth of Wood’s Creek. 124 Sierra Club Bulletin. 2. We recommend the construction of a permanent bridge over the main King’s River in the vicinity of Cedar Grove, to replace the one which was carried away by the high water of 1900. We are informed that such a bridge is in the course of con- struction. 3. The construction of a permanent bridge over the King’s River just above the mouth of Bubb’s Creek is eminently de- sirable. It is the logical point for the construction of a bridge, and will obviate the necessity of fording Bubb’s Creek and will greatly improve the trip to Kearsarge Pass. 4. It is desirable that a bridge across the main river be placed near where the old bridge formerly crossed, just opposite Kanawyer’s cabin. This bridge is necessary in order to make the Grand Sentinel accessible. 5. A direct trail from the King’s River Cafion to Mt. Whitney should be built. The highest mountain in the United States is so attractive that many wish to visit it from this region, and this trail will serve the double purpose of making the Kern Cafion accessible as well. It has been suggested that such a trail should be made up the gully to the east of the Grand Sentinel, and after crossing the high region directly to the south of the King’s River Cafion, most of which is open country, the trail should then drop into Cloudy Cafion and join the trail leading up to the head-waters of this cafion, and, after crossing the divide, drop down the cafion of either the Kern-Kaweah or the Big Arroyo (whichever might be found most feasible) and join the present Mt. Whitney trail in the Kern Cafion not far from where it ascends the eastern wall. 6. In order to render the Tehipite Valley accessible, it is recom- mended that prior to the completion of the State road a trail be constructed from the point on the north side of the King’s River where the road crosses the river and thence down the north side of the river till it reaches the point of junction of the Middle and South forks, and thence up the south side of the Middle Fork until it reaches the Tehipite Valley. A bridge should be constructed over the Middle Fork in Tehipite Valley. We are informed that the greater portion of this trail is already in existence, and that the portion toward Tehipite only will have to be built. Another bridge should ultimately be placed across the Middle Fork between Tehipite Valley and Simpson’s Meadow. 7. In view of the fact that Mr. Shinn informs us that he has persistent applications for permits to pasture stock in Paradise Valley, we desire to place ourselves on record as unalterably opposed to the granting of any such permits. The time is not Report on King’s River Canon and Vicinity. 125 far distant when the idea of pasturing cattle in Paradise Valley will be as unthought of as it would be now to have them pastured in Central Park. 8. Since the amount of trail work and construction of new trails necessary to properly open up and render accessible this wonderful region is so great, we would recommend for the most - careful consideration of the Forest Service the establishment of a permanent crew of trail-makers who should have the work of constructing and repairing trails and building bridges as their sole duty, and to be called out to fight fire only in case of extreme necessity. In making the foregoing recommendations, we feel that for the greater part they are improvements directly in line with the proper development of the forest reserve, and will all tend to make the reserve itself more accessible and more easily patrolled. Respectfully submitted. Wo. E. Coisy, Chairman, J. N. Le Conte, E. T. Parsons, Outing Committee. Published by order of Board of Directors of the Sierra Club. [Note.—Mr. John Muir has read the foregoing report, and, with the exception noted, it meets with his “hearty approval.” He further states that “every possible aid and encouragement should be given by the Club for the preservation, road and trail building, etc., for the development of the magnificent King’s River region.” He does not approve of that portion of the report, how- ever, “in which the Yosemite and King’s River regions are com- pared,” thinking that the comparison is somewhat “unjust” and “one-sided.” The report was already in press, or it would have been modified in this particular, and this note has been inserted so that Mr. Muir’s views on the subject should not be misrepre- sented by an unqualified indorsement. ] NortHForK, Maprera County, December 28, 1906. SECRETARY SIERRA CLuB, San Francisco. Dear Sir: I have been asked for some notes on the King’s River region, from the standpoint of the Forest Service, or rather from that of the local officers. We are entirely in sympathy with the Sierra Club in every effort to make the mountains more accessible and to preserve the natural beauties of our scenery. The region reported upon 126 Sierra Club Bulletin. by the Club is mainly so precipitous and so devoid of timber or large grazing areas that it can easily be handled as a strictly tourist region. The Forest Service does not propose to allow the grazing of sheep in the great area between the Middle Fork and South Fork of King’s River. Cattle have already been excluded from Roaring River and Cloudy Cafion, also from Bubb’s Creek to the summit. In fact, the only live-stock at present using meadows in this region are pack-trains and saddle-horses. It is fortunate, I think, that the leaders of the new American forest movement are men of broad culture as well as of business training. In Washington, as well as here in the Sierra Reserve, there has never been any difference of opinion respecting the fundamental principles of reserve management. Briefly, we aim at a wise and careful balancing of closely related interests. The reserves must be made self-supporting; the forests must be maintained, improved in quality, increased in area; the multitude of local industries, such as grazing, which were established before the reserves, must be considered. All these taken together make up the commercial side of reserve work, and secure the livelihood of thousands of American citi- zens. Any reckless or too sentimental interference with this side of reserve work by well-meaning lovers of outdoor life would result in an upheaval which in the end would go far towards ruining not only the reserve system but the National park system. But over and beyond all the commercial interests involved, foresters and the reserve leaders-recognize our full responsibility as guardians of the High Sierra. It is our duty as well as our happiness to keep inviolate for all time to come, as far as the many interests involved will permit, the real mountain land where the tired people of great cities and throbbing valleys can come and find rest. There is ample room in the reserves for the fostering of every possible interest involved. There are broad acres which dis- tinctly belong to tourists, campers, and friends of the wilderness. To the reasonable withdrawal of such areas from grazing, the stockmen make no objections,—the meadows are too small and the mountains too rough and too distant for profitable use. As the number of tourists increases, the areas which they need will enlarge. The building of hotels, cabins, etc., will in time use much of the scattered timber which is unprofitable from the commercial standpoint. The tourist travel itself will in time yield a sufficient income to construct the necessary roads and trails and bridges. It will be proper to charge for licenses to take in pack-trains, to run hotels, and to shoot game. Report on King’s River Cation and Vicinity. 127 Every now and then the view is expressed in print that the reserves are likely to be run more and more for merely com- mercial reasons. On the contrary, as I wish to point out, the reserves are able to develop a large income from timber and grazing resources, and therefore are especially well fitted to maintain and improve suitable tourist areas in wild regions unfit for commerce. In looking at these things, we must utilize the trained imagination so as to understand what fifty years of growth will do for the Sierra. A park within a reserve would virtually be a case of divided authority, and it is not seriously proposed by any one. The whole reserve idea is based on the preservation of natural beau- -ties, as well as on the wise development of commercial enter- prises. It seems to me especially desirable to have all the tourist ele- ments brought closer together, allotted local areas, and made more definitely responsible for the results. I do not now refer to the thousands of campers and cottagers who more and more gather each summer in the timber belt or about cattle camps or near sawmills, or here and there by little meadows. These people come from the valley, and really become a part of the daily life of the reserve, sometimes for many months. But the country that Stewart Edward White writes of in “The Pass,” that Muir, Le Conte, and all the rest of your Club have climbed over, can be made to belong to those whose vacations are brief and whose organization is of a higher type. It will be a sad day for the Sierra Forest Reserve if its officers ever lose the good will and hearty co-operation which the Sierra Club and kindred bodies have ever given. Very sincerely, Cuartes H. SHINN, Supervisor Sierra (N) Reserve. SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. PUBLISHED JANUARY AND JUNE OF EACH YEAR. Published for Members. Annual Dues, $3.00. The purposes of the Club are:—“To explore, enjoy, and render accessible the mountain regions of the Pacific Coast; to publish authentic information concerning them; to enlist the support and co-operation of the people and the Government in preserving the for- ests and other natural features of the Sierra Nevada Mountains.” ORGANIZATION FOR THE YEAR 1906-1907. Board of Directors. Me. Joun, Mum: (Martinez) (so ee eee President Prof. A. G. McApte( Merchants’ Exch. Bldg., S. F.), Vice-President Prof: J Ni Es Conte ‘(Berkeley):o2 5.205. 2er ee Treasurer Mr. Wo. E. Cotsy (2901 Channing Way, Berkeley) ...Secretary Prof. GrorcE Davipson (2221 Washington St., S. F.) Prof. W. R. DupLey (Stanford University). Mr. J. S. Hutcuinson, Jr. (1117 Mission St., S. F.). Mr. WARREN OLNEY. Mr. Epwarp T. Parsons (University Club, S. F.). Honorary Vice-Presidents. Prof. GrorcE Davipson (San Francisco). Mr. R. U. Jounson (The Century, New York). Pres. Davin STARR JorDAN (Stanford University). Mr. Girrorp PrncHot (Washington, D.C.). Committee on Publications. Mr. Extiotr McAtuister (Union Trust Bldg., S. F.)....Editor Prof. WitLt1Am FReperic BADE (Berkeley)........ Book Reviews Mri J (Bur, State, Foresters. 26 oer ee pee Forestry Notes Mr. Atex. G. EELts. Mr. J. S. HutTcHINSON, JR. Mr. Epwarp T. Parsons. Prof. H. W. Rotre (Stanford University). Mr. WitLoucHBy RopmMAN (Los Angeles). Miss F. B. Wuirttier (Mechanics’ Library, S. F.). Auditing Committee — Directors McApizr, HutcHinson, and DUDLEY. Outing Committee—Mr. Wm. E. Cotsy (Chairman), Mr. J. N. Le Conte, Mr. Epwarp T. Parsons. Committee on Local Walks —Mr. E. G. Knapp (Chairman), Mr. Juttus Caun, Mr. Geo. M. Cumminec, Miss Marion RANDALL, Mr. R. S. Torzriz. Le Conte Memorial Lodge Committee—Mr. E. T. Parsons (Chairman), Mr. Wo. E. Cosy, Prof. J. N. Le Conte. Librarian—Miss ANITA GOMPERTZ. Reports. 129 REPORTS. REPORT OF THE CUSTODIAN OF LE CoNTE MEMORIAL LopGE, YOSEMITE VALLEY. During the summer of 1906 the Le Conte Memorial Lodge was open to the public from May 22d till July 22d. It was not until June 15th, however, that visitors to the valley were numerous enough to enjoy the hospitality of the lodge even in moderate numbers. There were two reasons why people did not go to the valley during early summer. The principal one, of course, being the earthquake, and also the unusually long and wet spring. Not until June 14th was Glacier Point trail opened, and Eagle Peak was not accessible until a week later. Snow clung to the rim of the valley until July Ist, and it was not possible even to reach Lake Tenaya, except on foot over frozen snow, on August TSt The lodge was open daily, except Sunday, from 9 a.m. till 9: 30 P.M., and during the greater part of the season a cheerful fire blazed in the Titan fireplace every evening. The custodian was ably assisted by his wife in entertaining guests, and the promotion of the Sierra Club and its aims were sought rather than the mere conducting of a library. To that end personally conducted trips were taken every Sunday, and frequent visits made to parts of the wonderful valley that few people visit. Evenings of entertainment around the blazing fire- place, with pop-corn and lemonade, often enticed a number of visitors. During the latter part of the summer the number of visitors increased greatly, and at the time of closing there were many more people in the valley than had been during the months of May and June. The closing of the lodge was a cause of general regret. With the advent of the new railroad, Government control of the valley, and the consequent rise of importance as a pleasure resort, it will not be extravagant to improve the interior furnish- ings of the lodge by installing new furniture in keeping with the structure; by adding to the selection of books and magazines; by piping fresh water to satisfy the frequent requests of visitors; 130 Sierra Club Bulletin. by furnishing a supply of firewood for the earlier months of summer; and by lengthening the season to four months. The thanks of the Sierra Club are due Mr. F. O. Popenoe, of Los Angeles, for a year’s subscription to the Pacific Monthly; to Mrs. John Sexton, of Santa Barbara, for a supply of current magazines; and to Miss Hope Loughborough, of Little Rock, Arkansas, for a copy of “The Mountains,” by Stewart Edward hite. y ete Respectfully submitted, J. J. Roea, Custodian. Notes and Correspondence. 131 NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. In addition to longer articles suitable for the body of the magazine, the editor would be glad to receive brief memoranda of all noteworthy trips or explorations, together with brief comment and suggestion on any topics of general interest to the Club. Descriptive or narrative articles, or notes concerning the animals, birds, forests, trails, geology, botany, etc., of the mountains, will be acceptable. The office of the Sierra Club is at 2901 Channing Way, Berkeley, where all the maps, photographs, and other records of the Club are kept, and where members are welcome at any time. The Club would like to secure additional coptes of those numbers of the Srerra CLus BULLETIN which are noted on the back of the cover of this number as being out of print, and we hope any member having extra copies will send them to the Secretary. Scottish MOUNTAINEERING CLUB, 20 GEORGE ST., EDINBURGH, May 31, 1906. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco. Dear Sir: Your circular of 1oth received. May I offer you the sincere sympathy of the S. M. C. in the loss of your records, books, etc., and express the hope that the trouble you are experi- encing will soon be in the past? If your copies of the S. M. C. Journal have been destroyed, can we show our sympathy in a practical way by sending you copies of those issues we have still in print? Kindly say, and mention what numbers you had, if possible. Yours very truly, W. E. Cozsy, Eso. F. S. Goces, Honorary Librarian. Lonpon, May 29, 19006. SECRETARY SIERRA Cus, San Francisco. Dear Sir: I have returned to town for a few days, before leaving for the Continent, and find your Circular No. 31 amongst my letters. I hasten to assure you of my entire sympathy. The Club has been tried by fire, but it will, I hope and believe, emerge from the ordeal stronger than before. If I can, by sending out copies of my own books, or can in any other way assist in the restoration of your library, you have only to command me. Very truly yours, W. E. Corny, Eso. Epwarp WHYMPER. 132 Sierra Club Bulletin. PorTLAND, OrEcoN, May 23, 1900. To MEMBERS OF THE SIERRA CLUB, GREETING: Mazamas have heard with profound regret of the awful calam- ity that has been visited upon our sister city San Francisco, and our hearts go forth in deep and enduring sympathy to residents of that glorious monument of human progress, the great city by the Western sea, but deeper by far does our sympathy go to those of kindred thoughts and impulses, lovers of the beau- tiful and grand in Nature, to whom a more tender tie binds our hearts, and the Executive Council has instructed me to convey to you that which words cannot convey, hence, I can only add :— Down deep in our hearts there lingers a tenderness of sym- pathy and love for the Sierra Club that can meet a response only in hearts oft overflowing with mountains’ sacred influences, sO we expect you to catch from us that spark of sympathy in- spired that will break forth within you a responsive flame of appreciation. Your printed records are gone and cannot be replaced, but your heart’s work will go on forever. The seeds you have sown will spring up and bear fruit a thousandfold, and the world will be better for you. You will rise from the ashes of your city a greater organization, a greater power for good than you ever would have been without the scourge of fire. If by word or by deed the Mazamas can aid you, it will be a rare privilege, and we will appreciate the opportunity and exert ourselves to rise to the occasion and prove ourselves worthy to serve you. Very sincerely, Witt G. STEEL, Cor. Sec. Mazamas. New York, May 28, 1906. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco. Dear Sir: All friends of mountaineering are deploring your recent club losses. Later I may send you a few books towards a new club library. Here is a check for $50, as my dues to become a life member. Much is expected from the present spirit of San Francisco. We look for a Sierra Club, revived and invigorated, overcoming its difficulties with the climber’s patient tenacity. May you soon emerge from these present misfortunes, with added numbers, and still higher mountaineering spirit! The hopes and good wishes from the East are with you. Sincerely, W. E. Cozsy, Eso. HARRINGTON PUTNAM. Notes and Correspondence. 132 APPALACHIAN MouNTAIN CLUB, Boston, Mass., April 27, 1906. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, Berkeley, Cal. Dear Sir: Your letter of recent date stating that your records had all been lost in the awful earthquake and fire in San Fran- cisco, and giving your temporary address, was duly received. My first impulse on learning of the calamity which overtook your great city was to wire you at once our sympathy and eager- ness to assist in every possible way. But when I found that telegrams were being held up in Chicago by the thousands, it seemed best to wait until we could learn your home address, which I believed to be outside of the city. At a meeting of this Club, held in Boston on the evening of April 24th, it was voted :— “That a special committee be and is hereby appointed, to con- sist of Professor Charles E. Fay, chairman, the president, Mrs. Lucinda W. Prince, Mr. J. H. Emerton, and Mr. W. A. Brooks, to extend at once the sympathy of this Club to the Sierra Club of San Francisco in the terrible calamity which has befallen their city and their Club, and to consider what, if anything, the Appalachian Mountain Club can do to assist the Sierra Club, and report recommendations to the Council.” That committee met to-day and voted that the president should at once wire you of our interest, and follow the telegram with this letter. Accordingly I have wired you to-day at the above address as follows: “Appalachian Club sends sympathy and desires to help Sierra Club. Letter follows.” As individuals we have all been doing what we can for the stricken city and its people as a whole. As a Club we desire to aid our Sierra Club brethren in every possible way to re-establish _ themselves. We beg that you will inform us exactly as to your Club’s situation, and suggest to us in what manner we can best aid you. We will of course replace the full set of our magazine if you desire it, and can perhaps otherwise aid in restoring your library. Is there anything else that we can do? It had been feared that your summer trip into the mountains would have to be abandoned, and we are overjoyed to note that you state in your letter that the plans will be carried out in the main. It was learned here to-day that the educational convention for the summer had been practically abandoned, and that the rail- roads were intending to cancel the attendant reduced rates. This, I regret to state, will doubtless have its effect upon the 134 3 Sierra Club Bulletin. size of the delegation that this Club might otherwise send to join you on your expedition. All success to San Francisco and to the Sierra Club is our hearty wish. Your indomitable courage amid such great adver- sity commands our highest admiration. We are all Californians as we are all Americans, and we will build together a fairer San Francisco upon the ruins. Fraternally yours, W. E. Corny, Eso. ALLEN CHAMBERLAIN, President. OrFIcE OF THE FORESTER, WASHINGTON, May 24, 1900. SECRETARY SIERRA CLus, San Francisco. Dear Sir: Many thanks for your letter of May 19th. I appre- ciate most heartily your kind and repeated invitations to take part in the Outings of the Sierra Club. This summer I had counted on going with you to the King’s River Cafion, but now it seems unlikely that I shall have that pleasure. Important legislation in which the Forest Service is directly interested is pending in Congress, so that it will be necessary for me to be here during the closing days of the session, and I am afraid that adjournment will come too late for me to get out to California in time for the Outing. I wish most heartily I could come and I am exceedingly sorry that the chances are against it. Let me thank you also for what you are good enough to say about the Yosemite Recession Bill. I hope strongly that it may pass. ih We are all feeling very enthusiastic about the admirable spirit in which the San Francisco people are trying to recover from the results of the earthquake. I need not say that if there is any way in which the Forest Service can help I shall be particularly glad. Very sincerely yours, GirForpD PincHot, Forester. Book Reviews. 135 BOOK REVIEWS. Epitep By WILLIAM FREDERIC BADE. The atteution of mountaineers with money and leisure is increasingly turning to Tibet. Until recently no Europeans except a few Moravian missionaries had entered this for- bidden country. Even these had not penetrated far beyond the border. But during the last decade Great Britain has been more aggressive in the assertion of her suzerain rights along the west- ern frontier of Tibet, even going to the length of sending a military embassy to the capital. It is not surprising, therefore, that the best recent literature on Tibet should have been pro- duced by Englishmen with an exploring turn of mind. Notable from every point of view is a book* that has just come to the reviewer's table from the press of Edward Arnold (London), publisher to the India office. Its title, Western Tibet and the British Borderland, sufficiently describes the scope of the work. As Deputy Commissioner of Almora, the author, Charles A. Sherring, evidently made good every facility for exploration. One hundred and seventy-five photographs of uncommon excel- lence illustrate the text. One chapter, written by T. G. Long- staff, a member of the Alpine Club, describes an attempt to climb Gurla Mandhata (altitude 25,350 ft.). This account will be of particular interest to members of the Sierra Club. Mr. Longstaff was accompanied by two Alpine guides from Courmayeur. Among the adventures of the trio was a fearful ride on a snow avalanche which carried them down a thousand feet and lodged them on a somewhat gentler slope. The following night they spent in a hole in the snow at an altitude of more than 23,000 feet. The writer considers their escape miraculous, and moralizes as follows: “I think we were to blame in having ventured to descend any steep Himalayan snow-slope after the sun had been on it all day, especially as most slopes in these mountains are really steeper than they look. In the Alps the reverse is usually the case, while the snows of the Caucasus take an intermediate position.” Mr. Sherring’s style is not highly literary, but he narrates so well that the reader’s interest never flags for a “WESTERN TIBET AND THE BritTIsH BorDERLAND.” *Western Tibet and the British Borderland. By Cuartes A. SHERRING, M.A., F.R.G.S. London: Edward Arnold, Publisher to the India Office. Pp. 367. 136 Sierra Club Bulletin. moment. The chapters cover a wide range of topics: e. g., “Bhotia Marriage Customs,’ “Tibetan and Bhotia Death Cere- monies,’ “Religion and Government in Tibet,’ “Mansarowar and Kailas, the Abode of the Gods,” “The Passes to Western Tibet,’ and “Customs of the Western Bhotians,’ “A Tibetan Trade Route,” etc. A number of excellent maps are included in the volume. Many an interesting incident is woven into the nar- rative. It would be hard to find anything more unique than the author’s account of the manner in which a hundred Tibetans, armed only with stones and axes, hunted down and slew a man- eating tiger. On the whole, it would be difficult to find a more readable book on the mountains, people, and customs of Tibet. W. FB: It is a choice, and in some respects rather remarkable, collection of excerpts from the literature of the mountains that has been gathered in this dainty little volume.* Scarcely any aspect of mountain scenery has been overlooked, and every mood of the beholder finds some expression appropriate to itself. French, German, English, and American writers have all been laid under tribute. Most of the pieces are poetry, but there also are quite a number of well-chosen prose extracts. The grouping of the contents of the volume is partly geographical and partly thematic, as is evident from the following selection of general headings: “The Mountains,” “In the Valley,” “Man and the Mountains,” “Cloud Pageantry,” “Storm,” “Hills and Fells of England,” “The Alps,” “Hellas and the Orient,” “The West,” etc. Both in size and in content the book is well adapted to become the pocket vade-mecum of a mountaineer. WW. Eee: “THE VOICE OF THE MOUNTAINS.” The mountaineer, especially if he be con- templating visiting the Canadian Rockies, » cannot help being interested in this book.t Besides giving a very good account of the general aspect of these mountains and a description of the peaks of greatest importance, with choice photographs, there are a great many first ascents detailed here, and those one always enjoys. One feels, perhaps, on noticing the footnotes that ex- plain many common mountaineering terms, that the book was written with a view to instructing the non-climbing public who “IN THE HEART OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES. *The Voice of the Mountains. Edited by Ernest E. BAKER and FRANCIS E. Ross. London: George Routledge & Sons, Ltd. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co. Pp. 294. { In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies. By JAMES OuTRAM. New York: The Macmillan Company. 1905. Pp. 466. Book Reviews. ky have never cached any provisions, nor looked into the vast recesses of a crevasse, nor contemplated a couloir. This perhaps betrays the attitude of a recent convert to Alpine recreation. One of the most interesting chapters is that devoted to Lake Louise. There are some most excellent photographs of that lovely lake and descriptions of climbs made in its vicinity, which make one long for an opportunity to camp there and explore its neighborhood. The first ascents, which indeed comprise nearly the whole book, are given with a good deal of detail and convey much useful information to the would-be climber of these moun- tains. For this reason Mr. Outram has made a valuable contribu- tion to alpine literature. So far as the Selkirk Range is con- cerned, however, his maps are superseded by those just completed by the Topographic Survey under the auspices of the Dominion Government. E. M. B. Very delightful, as well as practical, is the Garden Book of California, by Belle Sum- ner Angier. It is an artistic little volume, illustrated with photographs of suggestive features of the most attractive California gardens. Its message is more particularly for the amateur, and it is written with especial consideration of California climatic conditions. Very valuable are the hints on irrigation, the preparation of soil for planting, the gathering and preservation of seeds, the transplanting of seedlings, and the destruction of insects. Besides these more general features of gardening, the book deals with special problems, such as rose culture, ferns and ferneries, the cultivation of native flowers and shrubs, back-yard problems, and, most alluring of all perhaps, out- of-door living-rooms. The book, published by Paul Elder and Company, and very prettily decorated by Spencer Wright, seems to fill a long-felt need of the amateur gardener. M. R. “Tue GARDEN Book OF CALIFORNIA.” The National Geographic Magazine for December contains a brief article by Edwin Swift Balch on “Highest Camps and Climbs.” He compares the achievements of T. G. Longstaff and W. W. Graham, and concludes by saying that “to any one who will look at the facts intelligently and without prejudice, there can be no doubt that Dr. Longstaff has made the highest camp (23,000 ft.) and the second highest ascent, and that to Mr. Graham still belongs the coveted honor of the record ascent (24,015 ft.).” The reviewer has added the probable altitudes in the quotation just given. Since Mr. Longstaff reached an alti- * The Garden Book of California. By BELLE SUMNER ANGIER. Paul Elder and Company, San Francisco. 138 Sierra Club Bulletin. tude of about 24,000 feet on Gurla Mandhata, it is apparent that he is a close rival of Mr. Graham, who established his record on Kabru. The most complete accounts of these ascents are the following: T. G. Longstaff, “Six Months’ Wandering in the Himalaya,” (The Alpine Journal, 1906, vol. XXIII, pp. 202-228) ; Mr. Longstaff’s chapter in Sherring’s book on Western Tibet, reviewed in this number of the BULLETIN; W. W. Graham, “Travel and Ascents in the Himalaya,’ (The Alpine Journal, 1884, vol. XII, pp. 25-52) ; Emil Boss and Douglas W. Freshfield, | “Notes on the Himalaya and Himalayan Survey,” (The Alpine Journal, 1884, vol. XII, pp. 52-60); Edwin Swift Balch, “The Highest Mountain Ascent,” (Bulletin of the American Geograph- ical Society, 1904, vol. XXXVI, pp. 107-109). Wi BeBe | i 4 ; Forestry Notes. 139 FORESTRY NOTES. Epitep py J. B. LULL. Press Bulletin No. 142, issued by the Forest Service on December 8, 1906, gives briefly an interesting exposition of the workings of the National forest policy in the use of reserves. That the forest reserves are rapidly being changed from objects of Government charity to sources of revenue is conclusively shown by figures comparing the re- ceipts during the fiscal year 1905-1906 as against the previous year: The total revenue brought in was $767,219.96, as against $60,142.62 for the previous year. In timber sales there were disposed of for immediate or early removal nearly 300,000,000 board feet of lumber, at stumpage prices ranging up to four dollars per thousand, as against 96,060,258 board feet, with a maximum price of two dollars and fifty cents per thousand, in 1904-1905. During the last fiscal year the area of forest reserves was increased from 85,693,422 acres to 106,999,138 acres. It must not be inferred that this revenue has been so greatly increased at the expense of reserve property. It has resulted from the fuller utilization of forest resources. Mature timber in which deterioration offsets growth has been removed, resulting in a betterment of forest conditions because it was cut in such a way that reproduction of valuable species followed. Grazing has been sold, but under regulations which prevent harm to forage. Privileges of various kinds have combined to swell the revenue from reserves while making them yearly more valuable. During its last session Congress enacted the wise provision that ten per cent of the gross receipts from forest reserves be made over to the States in which they are situated, for the benefit of the counties which would otherwise receive no revenue from a part of their area. California’s allotment this year will be $8,192.12. This amount is exceeded only by the States of Colo- rado and Utah. The saving of reserve property which resulted from the organ- ized care of the reserve force was undoubtedly worth more than the whole cost of administering the reserves. Only about eight fires of any consequence occurred on the reserves during the calendar year 1905, a season of extreme dryness. This small number was due in large part to the system of patrol, which leads to the discovery of fires before much damage has been done. Forest RESERVES. 140 Sierra Club Bulletin. The Monterey and San Luis Obispo forest re- serves, which were created during the past summer, will be manned at an early date. Otto Tortensen, Ranger-in-Charge of the Monterey reserve, aims to have his force at work on a trail from the Arroyo Seco River to the Coast early in January. Mr. Tortensen will maintain headquar- ters at Salinas. The San Luis Obispo reserve will be in charge of Supervisor E. S. Mainwaring, with headquarters at San Luis Obispo. The Monterey reserve has an area of 335,195 acres; the San Luis Obispo reserve, 363,350 acres. New RESERVES. Under the caption “American Forestry Hon- ored Abroad,” Press Bulletin No. 144 of the Forest Service announces that the Forest Ser- vice of the United States Government is to become a member of the International Association of Forest Experiment Stations. Other countries represented in the association are Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Russia, and Switzerland, the leading countries in the practice of scientific forestry. The purpose of the association is to standardize experimental work generally, so that the methods of investigation in each country will be uniform, and to collaborate in researches affecting two or more of the countries interested. Americans will feel proud of the rapid progress made in forestry here, which enables the Forest Service to enter this association on equal terms with the European countries through whose researches, conducted for many years, a science of forestry has been built up. Forest SERVICE HONORED. By an Act of the Legislature, approved March 16, 1903, the State of California made an appropriation of $7,500 each year for two successive years, to be used in forestry work in co-opera- tion with the Forest Service, the Service to contribute an equal sum. In the language of the act, the appropriation was made for the purpose of “studying the forest resources of the State and their proper conservation, and especially with a view of establishing a proper State forest policy.” This contract has been renewed twice since the conclusion of the first two years with an additional appropriation of $5,000 by both the State and the Forest Service for each succeeding year. This co-operative work, which will be completed by the end of the present fiscal year, has yielded, in the form of maps, re- ports, and practical demonstrations, invaluable data on all phases of California forestry. One important result of this work was the passage of the act of March 18, 1905, which created a State Board of Forestry and STATE AND FEDERAL Co-OPERATION. Forestry Notes. I4I the office of State Forester. As enacted, this law lacked much of the machinery included in the original bill to enforce its provisions, yet as an educational measure and a step in the right direction it has served a useful purpose. All Californians having the permanent welfare of their State at heart will feel grateful to the Forest Service for its unassum- ing and thorough work in collecting reliable data on such a difficult question. The difficulties which beset one engaged in such work must be experienced to be properly realized. In speaking of this work recently, Governor Pardee said: “Every cent of this money was spent wisely and honestly, as I knew it would be.” The first public report of State forestry work was submitted to Governor Pardee on Decem- ber 8th. This report shows the intimate rela- tion existing between the forests of California and practically every other industry, records the experiences gained under the For- estry Act, and recommends specific changes in the law to provide for its fuller enforcement. The growing field for the practice of technical forestry is alluded to with the recommendation that the fixed salaries for assistants, which is now so low that technically trained men cannot be secured, be removed, leaving this to be arranged by the State Board of Forestry. The present attempt to protect forest areas from fires by the services of volunteer fire wardens serving without pay or direction is shown ineffective. It is urged instead that the State accept an equal burden with the counties in protecting this resource of more than local im- portance, and employ salaried fire wardens, to be on duty during the dry season only. The report is now in press and will be available for distribution within a few days. REPORT OF STATE FORESTER. It is a matter for congratulation that the California Redwood Park has suffered no damage from fire during the past season. The danger from outside fires has been diminished greatly by the opening of. fire-lines from forty to sixty feet wide on the ridges surrounding the park. These lines will soon encircle the park, as a gap about one and a half miles wide is all that remains. When this is crossed, and the lines improved somewhat by widening and further clearing, no great apprehensions will be occasioned from any but the largest fires. These lines are not supposed to be automatic, but to serve as vantage-points from which approaching fires can be fought and backfiring be done safely. They will be supplemented by a patrol during the dry season and by a telephone system connecting them with the warden’s headquarters for use in summoning aid, etc. _ CALIFORNIA Repwoop Park. 142 Sierra Club Bulletin. A substantial improvement of much value and convenience has been added recently by the construction of a private telephone line from Boulder Creek to Governor’s Camp in the center of the park. A new log barn and a structure for housing employees and tools have been erected during the past year. _ A survey of the park boundaries is now under way. All brush and small trees are being removed from a path four feet wide, and guide stakes are being set where trails and roads cross the boundary. When completed this survey will establish the park boundaries and permit the exclusion by fencing and otherwise of straying stock, hunters, etc. During the coming spring a substantial lodge for the warden will be built at the park entrance on a tract of land donated to the State for this purpose by Mr. H. L. Middleton. A water system for Governor’s Camp and the warden’s lodge, together with a road-sprinkling apparatus, are soon to be provided. Revised By-Laws of the Sierra Club. 143 REVISED BY-LAWS OF THE SIERRA CLUB. (ADOPTED APRIL 29, 1905.) INCORPORATED JUNE 4, I892. ArticLE I.—Name. The name of this corporation shall be the Srerra CLus. ArticLteE I].—Purposes. The purposes for which this corporation is formed are as follows, to wit: To explore, enjoy, and render accessible the mountain regions of the Pacific Coast; to publish authentic information concerning them; to enlist the support and co-opera- tion of the people and the Government in preserving the forests and other natural features of the Sierra Nevada Mountains; to take, acquire, purchase, hold, sell and convey real and personal property, and to mortgage or pledge the same for the purpose of securing any indebtedness which the corporation may incur, and to make and enter into any and all obligations, contracts, and agreements concerning or relating to the business or affairs of the corporation, or the management of its property. ArticLe III.—Place of Business. The place where the principal business of said corporation is to be transacted is the City and County of San Francisco, State of California. (The foregoing articles, forming a part of the Articles of Incorporation, can be changed only by amending such articles as provided by law.) ArTICLE 1V.—Directors and Officers. SECTION I. The government of the Club shall be intrusted to nine of its members, to be known as the Board of Directors, who shall elect from their number a President, Vice-President, Sec- retary, and Treasurer. Sec. 2. The Directors shall enter upon their term of office on the first Saturday in May following their election, and shall thereupon elect the officers specified, who shall be the officers of the Club as well as of the Board, and such Directors and Officers shall hold office for one year and until their successors are elected and have qualified. 144 Sierra Club Bulletin. Sec. 3. The Board of Directors shall be the managing board of the Club, elect new members to the Club, control all expenditures and property of the Club, fill vacancies in the Board and its officers, and act for its interests in any way not inconsistent with these by-laws; but shall have no power to subject the Club to any liability beyond the amount of the corporate funds. ARTICLE V.—President. The President shall preside at all meetings of the Club and of the Board of Directors; enforce the by-laws; call such meet- ings as he is empowered to call; nominate all Standing Commit- tees, of each of which he shall be ex officio a member, said nominations to be presented to the Board of Directors for con- firmation at the commencement of his term of office; exercise general supervision over the affairs of the Club; have such other powers as ordinarily accompany such office; and at the end of his term of office present a report of the work accomplished by the Club during the preceding year, and outline a policy for the future, such report to be published in the SrzrRA CLuB BULLETIN. ARTICLE VI.—Vice-President. During the absence or disability of the President the Vice- President shall act in his place; and in case both President and Vice-President are absent from any meeting, the Secretary shall call the meeting to order, and an acting President be elected by the meeting. ARTICLE VII.—Secretary. The Secretary shall keep an exact record of the proceedings of the Club and of the Board of Directors; have charge of the records of the Club; give notice to the members or the Directors, as the case may be, of meetings of the Club and of the Board; shall receive and receipt for the dues and other moneys belonging to the Club, and deposit the same, in the name of the Club, with the bank or banks designated by the Board of Directors; submit names of persons recommended for membership in the Club to the Board of Directors for election; submit to the members, to be voted on, such questions as may be certified to him by the Board of Directors for that purpose; issue from time to time to the members circular letters, informing them of the work and condition of the Club; and, at the end of his term of office, shall present to the Board of Directors a report giving the his- tory of the Club during the previous year, such report when approved by the Board, to be published in the SrErraA CLus BUL- LETIN. Revised By-Laws of the Sierra Club. 145 Articte VIII.—Treasurer. The Treasurer shall, under the general supervision of the Board of Directors, disburse all moneys belonging to the Club, excepting such as are in the Permanent Fund, of which the accrued interest only shall be at his disposal for Club use; keep proper books of account; and at the end of his term of office, and at such other times as may be required, submit to the Board of Directors a report of the expenditures and the financial con- dition of the Club, and his annual report, when approved by the Board, shall be published in the Sierra CLus BULLETIN. ArticLE I1X.—Honorary Officers. Section I. The Board of Directors may, at their discretion, elect annually, by a unanimous vote, an Honorary President, who must be a member of the Club, and who shall have pre-eminently distinguished himself in mountaineering, exploration, or research. Sec. 2. The Board may also elect annually four Honorary Vice-Presidents, who must be members of the Club, and who shall be selected for such offices by reason of their prominence in matters identified with the purposes for which the Club was organized or because of some material aid and assistance they may have rendered the Club. | ARTICLE X.—JLibrarian. A Librarian shall be elected annually by the Board of Direc- tors. He shall be a member of the Club and have charge of the Club’s library; correspond, on behalf of the Club, with other similar clubs, particularly with a view to securing exchange of publications with such clubs; have power to select, from the membership of the Club, assistants to aid him in his work; and shall also make an annual report of the condition of the library. ArtTicLE XI.—Standing Committees. SecTION I. The Standing Committees, to be nominated by the President and presented to the Board for confirmation, shall be as follows, viz.: An Auditing Committee, a Committee on Publications, an Outing Committee, a Committee on Local Walks and Excursions, and a Le Conte Memorial Lodge Committee. Sec. 2. The Auditing Committee shall consist of three mem- bers of the Board of Directors. Its duty shall be to examine and audit all accounts of the Club at the end of each Treasurer’s term of office and at such other times as the Board may direct. Sec. 3. The Committee on Publications shall consist of nine members, the Chairman of which shall be the Editor of the 146 Sierra Club Bulletin. SIERRA CLuB BuLLeTIN. It shall select papers and articles to be published in the S1rrrra CLus BULLETIN, and shall exercise gen- eral supervision over all publications of the Club not otherwise provided for. Sec. 4. The Outing Committee shall consist of three members, - at least one of whom shall be a member of the Board of Directors. It shall have full charge of the preparation, manage- ment, and conduct of the Annual Outings of the Club and of such special Outings as the Committee may arrange for. The Chairman of this Committee shall be the manager of such Out- ings. All such Outings shall be conducted on an independent financial basis, and the Club funds shall not be available for such purpose. Sec. 5. The Committee on Local Walks and Excursions shall consist of five members, whose duties shall be to arrange and conduct local walks and excursions. Sec. 6. The Le Conte Memorial Lodge Committee shall con- sist of three members, at least one of whom shall be a member of the Board of Directors. It shall have charge of the Le Conte Memorial Lodge in Yosemite Valley and of all other similar properties that may be owned by the Club. ArtTicLE XII.—Southern California Section. The formation of a “Southern California Section of the Sierra Club” is authorized. Only members of the Sierra Club who reside in Southern California shall be qualified to become mem- bers of the Section. The objects of this Section shall be to advance the interests of the Club in Southern California. The Section shall elect its own officers, and is authorized to take inde- pendent action in matters within the purposes of the Club, but which are of special interest to Southern California. To this end the Section is authorized to collect data and information concerning the mountains of Southern California, and to conduct local outings. Information collected by the Section and articles prepared under its direction shall be published in the SIERRA Cius BULLETIN, if the Committee on Publications of the Sierra Club deem the matter submitted of interest to the whole Club. The Section shall be a subordinate body of the Club, and shall, as such, take no part in the management of the Club. None of the funds of the Sierra Club shall be used for the purposes of the Section, unless specially authorized by the Board of Directors. The Section shall provide and disburse its own funds. Southern California, within the meaning of this article, shall include the Counties of Santa Barbara, Ventura, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, Riverside, and San Diego. Revised By-Laws of the Sierra Club. 147 ArticLE XIII.—Nomination of Directors. The Board of Directors shall, at least five weeks previous to the annual election, appoint from the members of the Club at large a Nominating Committee of five. It shall be their duty to nominate a ticket of at least eighteen candidates for Directors for the ensuing year; provided, however, that the name of any member proposed in writing to the Committee by any ten mem- bers of the Club shall be added to such ticket, and also provided that the name of any Director who shall have been absent from any three consecutive meetings of the Board during the preceding year without furnishing an excuse in writing which shall have been accepted by the Board as sufficient, shall not be placed on the ticket. Within two weeks after its appointment, the said Committee shall file its report with the Secreary of the Club, who shall, at least two weeks previous to the annual election, have printed and mailed to each member of the Club a ballot of such nominees. This ballot shall have the names of all nomi- nees arranged in alphabetical order, with a blank space for the insertion of any additional name, and opposite each name a space for the marking of a cross. Upon said ballot shall be the fol- lowing words :— “BALLOT FOR BOARD OF DIRECTORS OF SIERRA CLUB: “ Annual Election, Saturday, April [Here in- sert date of annual election.] “Polls open from I to 4 P.M. ‘“‘ DIRECTIONS FOR VOTING. “Vote for nine candidates by marking a “cross opposite the names of the candidates “selected. Vote in person at the annual elec- “tion or mail your ballot; in which case in- “dorse your name on the envelope; otherwise “the ballot will not be counted. The election “is so conducted by the judges as to keep “each vote secret.” With such ballot the Secretary shall mail a stamped envelope, with the following address and words printed thereon :— “BOARD OF DIRECTORS, SIERRA CLUB, [Here insert office address. ] “SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. PSallott recone swt wee woe ears é 148 Sierra Club Bulletin. ARTICLE XIV.—Election of Directors. SECTION I. The annual election for Directors shall be held on the last Saturday of April of each year, and the voting shall be by ballot. No notice of such election, except that given by the mailing of such ballot, shall be necessary. Sec. 2. The polls shall be open at 1 o’clock p.m. and shall be kept open until 4 o’clock p.m. on the day of election. A plurality of votes shall elect. . Sec. 3. The Board of Directors shall appoint five Judges of Election from the members of the Club at large to supervise said election, a majority of whom shall be competent to act, and the Secretary of the Board shall refer to them unopened all the envelopes containing ballots. Sec. 4. The Judges of Election shall, at the time of the annual election and before opening the envelopes, check off the names of those thus voting, and shall thereupon open and destroy said envelopes and, without examining the ballot, cast said ballot in a box provided therefor. At the close of the election the judges shall count and report to the President and Secretary in writing the number of votes cast for each candidate and the names of those elected to serve as Directors; and the Secretary shall thereupon notify in writing the members elected. ARTICLE XV.—Removal from Office. Any Director or other officer of the Club may be removed from office for good cause shown, by an afhirmative vote of not less than three fourths of the members present at a special meeting of the Club convoked for that purpose, or by a three-fourths vote of all ballots cast at a special vote of the Club as provided for in Article XXIII. ARTICLE XVI.—Meetings of the Board of Directors. Meetings of the Board of Directors shall be held when called by the President or by three members of the Board. The Secre- tary shall mail to each member of the Board a written notice specifying the time and place of meeting at least two days prior thereto. A majority of the Directors shall constitute a quorum and form a Board for the transaction of business. ARTICLE XVII.—Meetings of the Club. The Club shall hold an annual meeting at such time as the Directors may decide, such meeting to be held primarily for the reading of papers or the delivering of lectures on subjects of interest to the Club, and also for the purpose of exhibiting stere- Revised By-Laws of the Sterra Club. 149 opticon views of mountain scenery. Special meetings may be called by the Board of Directors, and the Board shall at the written request of at least thirty members call a special meeting of the Club. Fifty members shall constitute a quorum at any meeting, and a less number shall have the power to adjourn a meeting until a quorum shall be present. The Secretary shall give notice by mail to each member of the time, place, and object of any meeting at least one week prior thereto. ARTICLE XVIII.—Dues. SECTION I. The first year’s dues of newly elected members shall be five dollars, payable within two months after election. Sec. 2. The annual dues of all members thereafter shall be three dollars, payable in advance on April Ist. Notice of such dues shall be sent by the Secretary to members on or near that date, and all members whose dues are unpaid on December Ist shall have notice of that fact sent to them; and if such dues are still unpaid on the first Saturday in May in the year fol- lowing, they shall thereupon cease to be members, and the Secre- tary shall cancel their names from the membership list, but such membership may be revived by the Board of Directors in its discretion and upon such terms as it may decide. The President and Secretary are authorized to remit any dues sub silentio, when they deem it advisable. Sec. 3. Any person may become a life member upon the pay- ment of fifty dollars at any time after his election to membership, and shall thereafter be exempt from the payment of dues. ARTICLE XIX.—Permanent Fund. All moneys received for life membership and such other sums as may be received or appropriated by the Board of Directors for permanent investment shall be securely and _ separately invested as a Permanent Fund, the income only of which shall be expended. ARTICLE XX.—Membership. SECTION I. Elections to membership shall be made by the Board of Directors, and the affirmative vote of at least seven members of the Board shall be necessary to election. Proposals for membership shall be made in writing by a member of the Club and presented to the Secretary, who shall thereupon mail each candidate a circular of information concerning the Club, a copy of these by-laws, and a postal card addressed to the Board to be signed by such candidate indicating that he desires to become a member, and if elected will assent to the by-laws. As soon as the Secretary shall receive at least six such postals signed 150 Sierra Club Bulletin. by the candidates, he shall thereupon prepare a ballot contain- ing the names of such candidates, their addresses, and the names of the members proposing them, and shall mail a copy of such ballot to each member of the Board of Directors, who shall, upon receipt of such ballot, indicate thereon the nature of his vote as to each candidate and return such ballot to the Secretary. The Secretary shall notify each newly elected member of the fact of his election, and also that his dues for the current year are payable. Upon receipt of such dues, which must be paid within two months (otherwise, the election shall be void), the Secretary shall enroll the name of such person on the regular membership list. Sec. 2. Honorary members, not to exceed twenty-five in num- ber, may be elected by a two-thirds vote of the entire Board, but they shall not be required to pay any dues. ARTICLE XXI.—Resignation of Members. Section 1. All resignations must be made in writing, ad- dressed to the Board of Directors. Sec. 2. No resignation of membership shall be accepted or shall take effect until all indebtedness to the Club shall have been paid by the resigning member. Sec. 3. All interest in and to the property of the Club and privileges of the Club of such resigning members, or of any member ceasing to be such by dismissal or death, or from any cause, shall cease and revert to the Club. ARTICLE XXII.—Discipline. Any member may be suspendid or expelled by a vote of at least seven members of the Board of Directors, but no such vote shall be taken until after the member shall have been fur- nished with a statement of the charges preferred against him, and shall have been given at least one week’s notice of the time when the same will be considered by the Board; and every such member shall have the right to appear before the Board, and be heard in answer to the charges, before final action thereon shall be taken. ArticLE XXIII.—Ballot by the Club. Whenever the Board of Directors shall decide that any ques- tion submitted to it for its decision is of such importance that it should be submitted to a vote of the members of the Club, the Board shall cause to be certified to the Secretary the form in which such question shall be submitted and shall direct him to have such question printed on the regular annual ballot for Directors; or, if it should order a special vote to be taken on FE * 0 4 j { Revised By-Laws of the Sierra Club. I51 the question, the Secretary shall thereupon prepare a special ballot with such question printed thereon, and the mailing of such ballot and the canvass of the vote on such question shall be conducted in all other respects in the same manner as the annual election of Directors is conducted. A majority vote of all the ballots cast shall decide the question. The Board shall, upon the written request of fifty members of the Club, submit to a vote of the Club such question as they may propose. ARTICLE XXIV.—Consiruction of By-Laws. On all questions as to the construction or meaning of the by-laws and rules of the Club, the decision of the Board of Directors shall be final, unless rescinded by the Club at the annual meeting or at a special meeting convoked for that purpose, or by vote as provided for in the preceding article. ARTICLE XXV.—Amendments to By-Laws. These by-laws are fundamental, and shall not be altered, amended, suspended, or repealed, in whole or in part, except by a two-thirds vote of all the ballots cast at any annual or special election, which ballots shall be so printed as to enable the mem- bers voting to express their wish as to the adoption or rejection of any proposed amendment or alteration. Such proposed amendment or alteration must be printed in full, and mailed to each member with his ballot, and shall only be submitted to a vote of the Club when presented in the manner indicated in Article XXIII for presenting questions to be voted on. 152 Sierra Club Bulletin. CHARTER MEMBERS. (Only the names of such charter members as were on the membership-list at the date of the adoption of the By-Laws are given below.) Anderson, Prof. M. B. Babcock, William Bailey, Charles A. Bartlett, L. de F. Beatty, Hon. Wm. H. Blake, E. T. Blum, Max Bradley, Prof. C. B. Branner, Prof. John C. Clark, Galen Davidson, Prof. Geo. Denicke, E. A. Denman, Will Drew. E. R. Dyer, A. P: Eddy, H. H. Greene, Prof. E. L. Gregory, Warren Griffin, Prof. James O. Harrison, Hon. R. C. Henry, W. H. Hoffman, Dr. C. von Hopkins, Timothy Hutchinson, James S. Jepson, W. L. Jordan, President D. S. Keeler, Charles A. Keep, Prof. Josiah Keith, William Kerr, Mark Brickell Lawson, Prof. A. C. Le Conte, Mrs. J. N. Le Conte, Joseph N. Lemmon, Prof. J. G. Libby, Dorville Loughridge, Prof. R. H. Marx, Prof. Chas. D. McAllister, Elliott McLean, Rev. J. K. ; Mills, D. O. | Mills, Mrs. C. T. Molera, E. J. Muir, John Muir, Miss Wanda Murdock, Charles A. Myrick, M. H. Olney, Warren Olney, Warren, Jr. Page, Charles Palache, Charles Perkins, Hon. Geo. C. Powell, H. A. Price, R. M. Price, W. W. Reinstein, J. B. Richter, Dr. C. Max Sanford, Prof. F. Senger, Prof. J. H. Shinn, Charles H. Smith, N. T. Taylor, Edward R. Thayer, I. E. Van Dyke, E. C. Vecchi, Dr. Paolo de a PUBLICATIONS OF THE SIERRA CLUB No. 36 SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN Vol. VI JUNE, 1907 SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA ( MAR 8 jax, 4 aw i U 1907 No. 3 SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN JUNE, 1907 | Vol. VI. No. 3 CONTENTS THE AFTERMATH OF A CLuB OuTING....Alden Sampson.... 153 Plates XXXII., XXXIIIL., XXXIV., XXXV. ALONG THE FootHILts To Lake Cuasot..W.R.Whyte....... 175 Plates XXXVI., XXXVII. Mr. Ros—E WEATHER OBSERVATORY...... JE. Church, Ir.o age Plates XXXVIIDL:, XXXIX., XL., MLL, XLIL, XLII THe ASCENT OF ASAMA-YAMA........ E. A. Wicher.3 2. ov. 186 Plates XXXI., XLIV., XLV. ORGANIZATION (OF (THE SIRRRAT (CLUBS oO i tana 190 REPORTS : Sechetatiy SHMePObt assis iia aie sik waite oft luctus «coc cee maa 197 Treasurer's Report ..... peeing ie CU ae i Ae a i) ed cee mY 199 NOTES SAND CORRESPONDE INGE Soi ig) on) ae Ae NSLS aa cea 201 POOR VERB MEG) ooo eee eC Maa Wm. Frederic Badé. 206 FHORESTRY IN DTES SoS a A ES Rm REMI! |i GB VE ah Ce elas 208 All communications intended for publication by the Sierra Cxius, and all correspondence concerning such publication, should be addressed to the Editor, Elliott McAllister, 402 Union Trust Building, San Francisco, California. Correspondence concerning the distribution and sale of the publications of the Club, and concerning its business generally, should be addressed to the Secretary of the Sierra Club, 2901 Channing Way, Berkeley, California. “Loyzne oy} Aq ydessojoyd ct woiy (ORT ‘d ,, ‘vue A-vuIesy JO 1Uadsy ey, ,, 22g) (‘LNVILSIG SHIN ALWOL SI ONVOIOA AHL) ‘OYONOM WO NAHAS — VNVSV “IXXX GFLVITd ‘IA “TOA ‘NILATING ANTS VANAIS SIERRA CLUB BULLETIN. Morn tf. SAN FRANCISCO, JUNE, 1907. No. 3. (he ARTERMATH OF A CLUB OUTING. By ALpEN SAMPSON. For the suggestion that we should take a look into the Roaring River country we were indebted to one of the earliest members of this Club, after whom, in case of doubt, peaks are named in the Sierra. Five days we spent in the Giant Forest, including that of our arrival, then retraced the trail by which we had come as far as Rowell Meadow. An occasional picture re- mains in memory; for instance, we saw where a bear had gnawed in a dead stub at a hole dug by a wood- pecker for ants, and had given it up, and we passed a thicket of chaparral near the Sherman tree, where As- sistant Superintendent Fry told me that he had on two or three occasions routed out a bear. He made use of one phrase in describing this incident which is not lacking in a certain quality of vividness. He said that his dog would quite fearlessly go into the tangle in search of the bear, but when the latter charged him would come dashing out “with his tail sticking straight out under his chin.” That was a vigorous rendering of the scene, and summons the picture before us. A man does not have to be a dog to feel the force of the description ; one touch of nature makes the whole world kin. Again we stopped to enjoy the wonderful panorama at Profile View, the grandeur of snow-peaks, and of valleys intervening, where even at this distance brooded the pleasant gloom of the forest, emphasizing in the dis- tant mellowness of atmosphere the clean-cut dignity of mountain-tops, sharply outlined against the sky. All the foreground is naked rock, the record of glacial action, 154 Sierra Club Bulletin, often in strata overlapping like the layers of an onion,— a circumstance in itself, by association of ideas, far from disagreeable to the mind of the hungry mountaineer. No trip would be complete without an occasional bother with pack-animals; we had something of this sort in the disappearance near Pattee Meadow of one of the mules with his precious burden. Two of us had stayed behind to remonstrate with the Skate, who had refused to keep up, and when we pushed on, after a brief delay, the new mule, who was ahead, had dis- appeared, and, not knowing his precise personal equa- tion, we feared that he had lit out or perchance lost interest in the expedition and come to the decision that home and a life of leisure possessed greater charm than strange scenes, however fair. For half or three quarters of an hour we had the hateful sensation of “lost stock,” during which time we scurried around over the face of the earth in a manner not dissimilar to that in which ants disport themselves when their domicile has been disturbed; till all at once, apparently from nowhere in particular, just as happens in a dream, there was the lost mule again in the trail, racking along at his best gait to find us, apparently as much interested in the celerity of progress as we were ourselves. Many scat- tered boulders were here, and perhaps he had chosen one of these with some exercise of good judgment be- hind which for the moment to hide. Our joy at seeing him again effaced all resentment, and every one good- humoredly swung into line. Camp was made at Rowell Meadow; once a good pasture, now infested with cattle. Feed was correspond- ingly short; but nothing better was in sight, so they had to go through the empty motions of filling their bellies, and we were up bright and early to get on our way and give them a more satisfying opportunity. The senior partner of our pleasant band was stirring at 4 o'clock, and had changed all of the pickets before the rest of us were awake. The distinguished-looking vaquero, The Aftermath of a Club Outing. 155 whom we had met here before, set us on our way through the labyrinth of cattle paths to the proper saddle of the hills where lay the trail. None of us had ever been over this before; of course we had no guide, and the finding of our way was one of the charms of the trip. It would have been periectly easy to do this save for the presence of cattle and the distracting maze of trails which they had made. Shortly before noon, having crossed the divide into the Roaring River basin, and finding water and some- thing bearing a remote resemblance to feed, we threw off the packs and let the stock refresh themselves for a couple of hours in the heat of the day, and then skirting Williams Meadow we followed Sugarloaf Creek down to the little dome which gives it its name. Here in the network of cattle paths we went too near the river and away from the real trail, which, we ascertained after- wards, crosses the plateau higher up and makes a cut-off by Bog Meadow to Scaffold Meadow. Near this latter it Was our ititention to camp, on the far side—that is, the right bank—of Roaring River, a mile or so below the junction of the two branches. We finally found ourselves pinched in on a steep, very rocky hillside, with the choice of three courses before us,—viz., of returning to the last patch of grass, which was not really sufficient for the sus- tenance over night of five head of stock; or of going ahead by pursuing a precarious course on the hillside overhanging the river; or, finally, of climbing away up above our present situation and attempting to intercept the lost trail, if one were there, a circumstance of which we were then in doubt. In council the last alternative pre- vailed, and after scrambling about we struck a well-worn trail which soon led into the Roaring River bottom. Our acquaintance at Rowell Meadow had told us that there were cattle here, but we had not realized how many there were to be of them and how completely they had given their minds to the effacement of everything fit to eat. Fortunately, at this juncture a conciliatory stockman, 156 Sierra Club Bulletin. with his wife, his son, and partner, came to our aid, and informed us that on the other side of the river was fine feed, which he offered to show us, and the ford by which it was reached. With great friendliness he took his boy behind him and insisted that the one of our party who was afoot should ride the lad’s horse across the ford; he advised us to reconstruct the pack of the short-legged Skate, so that it might be well above the reach of the water,—rather turbulent here,—and we soon found our- selves safely across at the edge of a fine meadow, full of the richest grass, where cattle were not permitted to enter,—choice grazing kept exclusively for horses and for a few milch cows. This was Scaffold Meadow—the name probably souvenir of a time when a cache had been constructed by hunters or sheepmen high out of the reach of coyotes. Our camp was established beneath some ponderosa pines and under the shadow of a great rock, away from the moisture of the meadow. Our supply of water was drawn from two little springs, one of them in the cavity beneath the roots of a fallen tree, where the water was cool and clear. ....2...5: oc eae eae I2 17 Total on deposit in Security Savings Bank May 9, I908..$519 62 Very respectfully, J. N. Le €onts; Treasurer. San Francisco, Car., May 9, 1908. Notes and Correspondence. 321 NOTES AND CORRESPONDENCE. In addition to longer articles suitable for the body of the magazine, the editor would be glad to receive brief memoranda of all noteworthy trips or explorations, together with brief comment and suggestion on any topics of general interest to the Club. Descriptive or narrative articles, or notes concerning the animals, birds, forests, trails, geology, botany, etc., of the mountains, will be acceptable. The office of the Sierra Club is Room 302 Mills Building, San Francisco, where all Club members are welcome, and where all the maps, photographs, and other records of the Club are kept. The Club would like to secure additional copies of those numbers of the Sierra CLuB BULLETIN which are noted on the back of the cover of this number as being out of print, and we hope any member having extra copies will send them to the Secretary. DECISION OF THE SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR. The following is the decision of the Secretary of the Interior upon the application of the city of San Francisco for reservoir sites in the Hetch Hetchy Valley and at Lake Eleanor, Yosemite National Park :— DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR, WasHINGTON, May II, 1908. Application for Lake Eleanor and pee Supply, Gino Hetch Hetchy Valley Reservoir San Francisco Sites. Act of February 15, 1901. The Commissioner of the General Land Office. Sir: October 15, 1901, James D. Phelan, then Mayor of the city of San Francisco, filed application for reservoir rights of way within the Yosemite National Park upon what are known as the Lake Eleanor and Hetch Hetchy Valley reservoir sites. This application was made under the act of February 15, 1901, and was in fact the application of the city made in the name of James D. Phelan to avoid the difficulties which beset a city if it must announce its business intentions to the public before securing options and rights necessary for its project. This is not disputed, and the fact is corroborated by his assigning to the city and county of San Francisco, on February 20, 1903, all his rights under the above application. This application was considered by the Secretary of the Interior and, on December 22, 1903, rejected, on the ground that he did not have the legal power to allow such a right of way within the Yosemite National Park. From that time to this the city has, with practical continuity, pressed its request for a permit to use these reservoir sites. The city failed, however, to take steps to reopen this case in the form prescribed by the Rules of Practice of this Department, and for that reason, technically had no application on file after December 22, 1903. On the other hand, 322 Sierra Club Bulletin. the city’s evident good faith and the strong evidence that it supposed its application was alive in the Department is shown by the fact that at its request and solicitation the question of the power of the Secretary of the Interior to grant the rights of way applied for was referred to the Attorney-General, who, on October 28, 1905, held definitely that the Secretary of the Interior had full discretionary power to grant rights of way for reservoir, irrigation, or hydro-electric purposes within the park. When the Secretary’s decision of December 22, 1903, was made final, the maps of location for the two reservoir sites were re- turned to the city, and unfortunately were destroyed by the fire which followed the earthquake of 1906. Fortunately, however, exact tracings of these maps had been made by the city engineer for use in court proceedings, and for that reason it has been possible to file exact reproductions of the original maps, certified by the city engineer. When the attention of the city’s repre- sentative was called to the fact that technically the city had no application before the Department, he, on May 7, 1908, formally filed a petition requesting the Secretary of the Interior to exercise his supervisory authority and reopen the matter of the applica- tion of James D. Phelan for the reservoir rights in question, thus treating it as though it had never lapsed. I have given the most careful consideration to this petition, and have decided that the facts mentioned above are ample grounds for exercising my supervisory power, and therefore reinstate the application of James D. Phelan, assigned to the city, as though the case had been technically kept alive since December 22, 1903, by specific compliance with the Rules of Practice of the Department. To this end the tracings of the original maps of location as recertified by Marsden Manson, city engineer, on April 22, 1908, will be accepted in lieu of the original and treated accordingly. Congress, on February 15, 1901, provided specifically :-— “The Secretary of the Interior . . . is authorized . . . to permit the use of rights of way through . . . the Yosemite, Sequoia, and General Grant National Parks, California, for . . . water conduits and for water plants, dams, and reservoirs used to promote... the supply of water for domestic, public, or other beneficial uses ... provided that such permits shall be allowed within or through any of said parks ... only upon the approval of the chief officer of the Department under whose supervision such park or reservation falls, and upon a finding by him that the same is not incompatible with the public interest.” By these words Congress has given power to the Secretary of the Interior to grant the rights applied for by the city of San Francisco if he finds that the permit “is not incompatible with the public interest.” Therefore I need only consider the effect of granting the application upon “the public interest.” In construing the words of a statute the evident and ordinary meaning should be taken, when such meaning is reasonable and not repugnant to the evident purpose of the law itself. On this broad principle the words “the public interest” should not be confined merely to the public interest in the Yosemite National Park for use as a park only, but rather the broader public interest which requires these reservoir sites to be utilized for the highest good to the greatest number of people. If Congress had intended Notes and Correspondence. 323 to restrict the meaning to the mere interest of the public in the park as such, it surely would have used specific words to show that intent. At the time the act was passed there was no authority of law for the granting of privileges of this character in the Yosemite National Park. Congress recognized the interest of the public in the utilization of the great water resources of the park and specifically gave power to the Secretary of the Interior to permit such use. The proviso was evidently added merely as a reminder that he should weigh well the public interest both in and out of the park before making his decision. The present water supply of the city of San Francisco is both inadequate and unsatisfactory. This fact has been known for a number of years and has led to a very extensive consideration of the various possible sources of supply. The search for water for the city has been prosecuted from two diametrically opposite points of view. On the one side the water companies, interested in supplying the city with water for their own profit, have taken advantage of the long delay since it was first proposed to bring water from the Yosemite to San Francisco to look up and get control, so far as they could, of the available sources in order to sell them to the city. On the other hand both the National Government and the city of San Francisco have made careful study of the possible sources of supply for the city. Four or five years ago the Hydrographic Branch of the Geological Sur- vey, after a careful examination by engineers of character and ability, reached the conclusion that the Tuolumne River offered a desirable and available supply for the city. The same con- clusion was reached by the engineers of the city of San Fran- cisco after years of exhaustive investigation. I appreciate keenly the interest of the public in preserving the natural wonders of the park and am unwilling that the Hetch Hetchy Valley site should be developed until the needs of the city are greater than can be supplied from the Lake Eleanor site when developed to its full capacity. Domestic use, however, especially for a municipal supply, is the highest use to which water and available storage basins therefor can be put. Recognizing this, the city has expressed a willingness to regard the public interest in the Hetch Hetchy Valley and defer its use as long as possible. The next great use of water and water resources is irrigation. There are in the San Joaquin Valley two large irrigation dis- tricts, the Turlock and Modesto, which have already appropriated under State law 2,350 second feet of the normal flow of water through Lake Eleanor and Hetch Hetchy. The representatives of these districts protested strongly against the granting of the permit to San Francisco, being fearful that the future complete development of these irrigation communities would be materially hampered by the city’s use of water. After repeated conferences, however, with the representatives of these irrigation districts I believe their rights can be fully safeguarded, provided certain definite stipulations to protect the irrigators are entered into by the city. Fortunately the city can agree to this, and the interest of the two users will not conflict. On the contrary, the city in developing its water supply will, to a considerable extent, help the irrigation districts in their further development. 324 Sierra Club Bulletin. The only other source of objection, except that from persons and corporations who have no rights to protect, but merely the hope of financial gain if the application of the city is denied, comes from those who have a special interest in our National parks from the standpoint of scenic effects, natural wonders, and health and pleasure resort. I appreciate fully the feeling of these protestants and have considered their protests and arguments with great interest and sympathy. The use of these sites for reservoir purposes would interfere with the present condition of the park, and that consideration should be weighed carefully against the great use which the city can make of the permit. I am convinced, however, that the “public interest” will be much better conserved by granting the permit. Hetch Hetchy Valley is great and beautiful in its natural scenic effects. If it were also unique, sentiment for its preservation in an absolutely natural state would be far greater. In the near vicinity, however, much more accessible to the public and more wonderful and beautiful is the Yosemite Valley itself. Furthermore, the reservoir will not destroy Hetch Hetchy. It will scarcely affect the cafion walls. It will not reach the foot of the various falls which descend from the sides of the cafion. The prime change will be that instead of a beautiful but somewhat unusable “meadow” floor the valley will be a lake of rare beauty. As against this partial loss to the scenic effect of the park, the advantages to the public from the change are many and great: The city of San Francisco and probably the other cities on San Francisco Bay would have one of the finest and purest water supplies in the world; the irrigable land in the Tuolumne and San Joaquin valleys would be helped out by the use of the excess stored water and by using the electric power not needed by the city for municipal purposes, to pump subterranean water for the irrigation of additional areas; the city would have a cheap and bountiful supply of electric energy for pumping its water supply and lighting the city and its municipal buildings; the public would have a highway at its disposal to reach this beauti- ful region of the park heretofore practically inaccessible; this road would be built and maintained by the city without expense to the Government or the general public; the city has options on land held in private ownership within the Yosemite National Park, and would purchase this land and make it available to the public for camping purposes; the settlers and entrymen who acquired this land naturally chose the finest localities, and at present have power to exclude the public from the best camping- places; and, further, the city in protecting its water supply would furnish to the public a patrol to save this part of the park from destructive and disfiguring forest fires. The floor of Hetch Hetchy Valley, part of which is owned privately and used as acattle ranch, would become a lake bordered by vertical granite walls or steep banks of broken granite. There- fore, when the water is drawn very low it will leave few muddy edges exposed. This lake, however, would be practically full during the greater part of the tourist season in each year, and there would be practically no difficulty in making trails and roads for the use of the tourists around the edges of the valley above high-water mark. The city of San Francisco, through Notes and Correspondence. 325 its regularly authorized representative, has, in order to protect the interests most directly involved, agreed to file with the Secretary of the Interior a stipulation approved by specific reso- lution of the Board of Supervisors and duly executed under the seal of the city of San Francisco, as follows: 1. The city of San Francisco practically owns all the patented land in the floor of the Hetch Hetchy reservoir site and sufficient adjacent areas in the Yosemite National Park and the Sierra National Forest to equal the remainder of that reservoir area. The city will surrender to the United States equivalent areas outside of the reservoir sites and within the national park and adjacent reserves in exchange for the remaining land in the reservoir sites, for which authority from Congress will be obtained, if necessary. 2. The city and county of San Francisco distinctly under- stands and agrees that all the rules and regulations for the government of the park, now or hereafter in force, shall be applicable to its holdings within the park, and that, except to the extent that the necessary use of its holding for the exclusive purpose of storing and protecting water for the uses herein specified will be interfered with, the public may have the full enjoyment thereof, under regulations fixed by the Secretary of the Interior. 3. The city and county of San Francisco will develop the Lake Eleanor site to its full capacity before beginning the development of the Hetch Hetchy site, and the development of the later will be begun only when the needs of the city and county of San Francisco, and adjacent cities which may join with it in obtaining a common water supply, may require such further development. As the drainage area tributary to Lake Eleanor will not yield, under the conditions herein imposed, sufficient run-off in dry years to replenish the reservoir, a diverting dam and canal from Cherry Creek to Lake Eleanor reservoir for the conduct of waste flood or extra-seasonal waters to said reservoir is essential for the development of the site to its full capacity, and will be constructed if permission is given by the Secretary of the Interior. 4. The city and county of San Francisco, and any other city or cities which may, with the approval of the municipal authorities, join with said city and county of San Francisco in obtaining a common water supply, will not interfere in the slightest particular with the right of the Modesto Irriga- tion District and the Turlock Irrigation District to use the natural flow of the Tuolumne River and its branches to the full extent of their claims, as follows: Turlock Irrigation District, 1,500 second-feet; Modesto Irrigation District, 850 second-feet; these districts having respectively appropriated the foregoing amounts of water under the laws of the State of California. To the end that these rights may be fully protected, San Francisco will stipulate not to store, nor cause to be stored, divert, nor cause to be diverted from the Tuolumne River or any of its branches, any of the natural flow of said river when desired for use by said districts for any beneficial pur- 326 Sierra Club Bulletin. pose, unless this natural flow of the river and tributaries above La Grange dam be in excess of the actual capacities of the canals of said districts, even when they shall have been brought up to the full volumes named, 1,500 second-feet for the Turlock Irrigation District and 850 second-feet for the Modesto Irrigation District. 5. The city and county of San Francisco will in no way interfere with the storage of flood waters, in sites other than Hetch Hetchy and Lake Eleanor by the Modesto and Turlock Irrigation Districts, or either of said districts, for use in said districts, and will return to the Tuolumne River above La Grange dam, for the use of said irrigation districts, all surplus or waste flow of the river which may be used for power. 6. The city of San Francisco will, upon request, sell to said Modesto and Turlock Irrigation Districts, for the use of any landowner or owners therein, for pumping sub- surface water for drainage or irrigation, any excess of electric power which may be generated, such as may not be used for the water supply herein provided and for the actual municipal purposes of the city and county of San Francisco (which purposes shall not include sale to private persons nor to corporations), at such price as will actually reimburse the said city and county for developing and transmitting the surplus electrical energy thus sold, the price, in case of dispute, to be fixed by the Secretary of the Interior; and no power plant shall be interposed on the line of flow except by the said city and county, except for the purposes and under the limitations above set forth. 7. The city and county of San Francisco will agree that the Secretary of the Interior shall, at his discretion or when called upon by either the city or the districts to do so, direct the apportionment and measurement of the water in accord- ance with the terms of the preceding clauses oi this stipu- lation. 8. The city and county of San Francisco, when it begins the development of the Hetch Hetchy site, will undertake and vigorously prosecute to completion a dam at least 159 feet high, with a foundation capable of supporting the dam when built to its greatest economic and safe height, and whenever, in the opinion of the engineer in charge of the reservoirs on behalf of said city and county and of the municipalities sharing in this supply, the volume of water on storage in the reservoirs herein applied for is in excess of the seasonal requirements of said municipalities, and that it is safe to do so, that such excess will be liberated at such times and in such amounts as said districts may designate, at a price to said districts not to exceed the proportionate cost of storage and sinking fund chargeable to the volumes thus liberated, the price, in case of dispute, to be fixed by the Secretary of the Interior; provided that no prescriptive or other right shall ever inure or attach to said districts by user or otherwise to the water thus liberated. 9. The city and county of San Francisco will, within two years after the grant by the Secretary of the Interior of the B % j Notes and Correspondence. 327 tights hereby applied for, submit the question of said water supply to the vote of its citizens as required by its charter, and within three years thereafter, if such vote be affirmative, will commence the actual construction of the Lake Eleanor dam, and will carry the same to completion with all reason- able diligence, so that said reservoir may be completed within five years after the commencement thereof, unless such times hereinbefore specified shall be extended by the Secretary of the Interior for cause shown by the city, or the construction delayed by litigation; and unless the con- struction of said reservoir is authorized by a vote of the city and county and said work is commenced, carried on, and completed within the times herein specified, all rights granted hereunder shall revert to the Government. In considering the reinstated application of the city of San Francisco I do not need to pass upon the claim that this is the only practical and reasonable source of water supply for the city. It is sufficient that after careful and competent study the officials of the city insist that such is the case. By granting the application opportunity will be given for the city, by obtain- ing the necessary two-thirds majority vote, to demonstrate the practical question as to whether or not this is the water supply desired and needed by the residents of San Francisco. I therefore approve the maps of location for the Lake Eleanor and Hetch Hetchy reservoir sites as filed by James D. Phelan and assigned to the city of San Francisco, subject to the filing by the city of the formal stipulations set forth above, and the fulfillment of the conditions therein contained. Very respectfully, JAMES RUDOLPH GARFIELD, Secretary. It will be of interest to our many friends who stood by us in this fight for the preservation of some of the grandest natural scenery in the Sierra to learn from the foregoing decision that San Francisco must first develop and use the Lake Eleanor por- tion of the system to the limit of its capacity. It has been estimated that the Lake Eleanor supply when fully developed is capable of furnishing 60,000,000 gallons of water daily. This, in addition to San Francisco’s present supply, will meet all her requirements for more than a quarter of a century in all prob- ability, and meanwhile Hetch Hetchy Valley will be untouched. Before the Lake Eleanor supply can be utilized, San Francisco must vote on the question of the acquisition of this system and determine whether she wishes to issue bonds for the $40,000,000 or $50,000,000 which it has been estimated the plant will cost when completed. In deciding this question it will be well for the city to keep in mind the fact that approximately five hundred square miles of the Tuolumne watershed, or fully one half of the entire area of the Yosemite National Park, drain directly into the proposed 228 Sierra Club Bulletin. Lake Eleanor and Hetch Hetchy reservoir sites. The travel into this portion of the park is constantly increasing, and by the time the Hetch Hetchy site is available, it will number many thousands annually. This travel into the watershed will have the effect of seriously polluting the water supply and will compel the city to resort to filtration. The question at once arises as to whether, in view of the fact that the city’s water will ultimately have to be filtered anyway, it would not be better policy to secure our water nearer at hand to begin with, at less cost, and filter it to the requisite purity. The Hetch Hetchy pipe-line will necessarily cross the San Joaquin River many miles from its intake. Why not pump the water directly from this point? It will eliminate many miles of expensive pipe-line and all the great cost of storage sites and dams. This water is unlimited in quantity and will be as free of conflicting rights as any water in California, because it will be taken below a point where it can be used for irrigation. It can then be filtered to any degree of purity, and the cost of filtra- tion will be so little compared to the saving accomplished as to be insignificant in amount. Apropos of this subject the following extracts from a letter written to Mr. Muir by J. Horace McFarland, President of the American Civic Association, will be of interest :— “My feeling is that before this [Hetch Hetchy] grant can pos- sibly be availed of a wider knowledge of the way in which a municipality may properly arrange a water supply for a future great population will intervene to negative the whole project. So far as the American Civic Association can bring it about, directly and through its intimate affiliation with the powerful National Municipal League, there will be an endeavor to spread the essential gospel that no self-respecting community caring for the health of its present and future citizens can afford to” provide a water supply not efficiently filtered close to the time of use. This principle has already been recognized in New York City. Statistics which were presented to the Conference in Washington last week, but not discussed, show conclusively that filtration is the only safety, unless a city is so fortunate as to have access to an underground supply of water of proved purity. This does not disprove the general dictum, because the underground supply is naturally filtered as efficiently as if artificially filtered. “T suggest, therefore, that agitation be at once begun upon the matter of filtration of the San Francisco water supply. At- tention can be called to the fact that if filtration is accepted as a necessity the supply itself need not be of complete purity. I have been drinking every day for two and a half years filtered Susquehanna River water, crystal clear and sparkling, free from injurious organisms, which twenty-four hours previous to the time of drinking was culm-infested, filth-filled, and full of disease Notes and Correspondence. 329 organisms. I see every time I go to the filtration plant the sullen, turbid flood of a river which more than a half-million people have used as a sewer, and I see the delightful results of scientific and carefully guarded filtration under which at one cent a hundred gallons we get a result quite equal to Apollinaris at twenty-five cents a pint. “Tf there can be strong attention called to this condition, if there can be reference to the governmental authorities at Wash- ington who have a splendid presentation to make, such a change may come about as to make it most unlikely that San Francisco will attempt the vast expense of the Hetch Hetchy project with the prospect of a cheaper and far more efficient supply closer by.” 330 Sierra Club Bulletin. BOOK REVIEWS. EDITED BY WILLIAM FREDERIC BADE. A very readable article on the “Hetch- OR ES ONE Hetchy Valley and the Tuolumne 1 Cafion,’ by Dr. Wm. Frederic Bade, canon. appeared in the May 14, 1908, issue of The Independent, published in New York City. A few quotations will not be out of place :— “The application of the city of San Francisco to the Depart- ment of the Interior for permission to use Hetch-Hetchy Valley as a reservoir site raises issues of considerable consequence. Since this valley is part of the Yosemite National Park it becomes necessary to determine upon what ground the claims or needs of a municipality may prevene those of the nation. Engineers conversant with the situation do not regard the Tuolumne as the city’s only adequate source of supply. The promoters of the project emphasize the convenience of the site. On the other hand, Hetch-Hetchy Valley is one of the chief scenic assets of the National Park. Many competent judges, among, them John Muir, rank its scenic importance scarcely second to Yosemite Valley itself. The gray granite walls rise, in what are mostly sheer precipices, to heights varying from. 1,700 to 2,300 feet. On the northern wall hangs the long silver scarf of Tueeulala—a thousand feet of white water dashed into whiter spray upon an earthauake talus. A little to the eastward the greater fall, Wapama, with thunderous roar, plunges into the valley from a height of 1,700 feet. No one who has seen Hetch-Hetchy with its ancient groves of oak and pine, its wonderful waterfalls, its meadows riotous with bloom and deeply set in granite frames, can feel happy over a project that would turn this valley into a lake bottom.” The writer then describes his trip down the Tuolumne Cafion, “that deserves to be counted among the greatest natural won- ders on earth,” and concludes with this beautiful word-picture :— “The evening light was weaving strange tapestries over the western mountain walls as we passed through the portals of Hetch-Hetchy, next to Yosemite the greatest natural cathedral on the Pacific Coast. From richly carved choir galleries came the joyous music of many waters, and the deep organ tones of full-throated waterfalls pealed forth ever and anon as we threaded its aisles on subsequent days. One would suppose that its own sublime beauty were argument sufficient for the preserva- tion of the valley. But still more cogent reasons for its preserva- tion are found in the fact that it is the natural entrance or exit of the Tuolumne Cafion. The time is not far distant when the Government will wish to build a trail through the wonderland of this gorge in order that thousands may look upon and enjoy what “ HetcH-HetcHy VALLEY ae hi : t Book Reviews. 331 until now few human eyes have seen. But men will long con- sider before tunneling granite cliffs above a reservoir. If Hetch-Hetchy is dammed the cafion trail is doomed, and the people of this nation are deprived at one blow of two of their best sources of future enjoyment and recreation.” WiC. Be Coiteone A paper by George D. Abraham, in the 5 June, 1908, World’s Work, is well worth AS A SPORT. the consideration of our mountaineering members. While the rules enumerated therein apply particularly to the Alpine regions of Europe and the North, still many of the points made hold good in our more hospitable Sierra Nevada. Especially noteworthy and true are his remarks on footwear. Many of our members, trusting to the glib, but ignorant, if not dishonest shoe salesman, when outfitting for their first trip to the mountains, have subsequently found that so-called Elkhide soles are worthless in the mountains; for only honest oak-tanned soles, without water-proofing of any kind, will hold nails and withstand the granite of the Sierra for a month. This paper on mountaineering is particularly timely, and World’s Work is to be commended for making it so widely available. Fe hs) Be This is the picturesque title of Dr. Fred- erick A. Cook’s account of the ascent of Mt. McKinley. As the publisher’s adver- tisement states it, the book is “An adventurous tale of a perilous trip up rushing glacial streams in a motor boat; of moose, cari- bou, mountain sheep, and bear; of frosty days and gloomy nights; and of the final conquering of the highest peak on this continent, Mt. McKinley, 20,390 feet high.” The introduction makes an immediate appeal to such as are members of the free-masonry of mountaineers. We cannot do better than to quote the words of the author :— “Mountaineering as we assume it in this venture is a depart- ment of exploration, and as such it is worthy of a higher appre- cation than that usually accorded it... . [It] is too often put down as a kind of dare-devil sport, of risky feats on cloud- piercing pinnacles; but in climbing there is an inspiration expand- ing with the increase of vision.” “To THE Top OF THE CoNTINENT.” This twofold interest attaches to the whole story; the love of exploration and actual discovery, and the rapture of the enlarged vision; the instinct of the geographer, and the sensibility of the artist. To all who have ever stood ‘Silent upon a peak in Darien ” this book addresses itself. 332 Sierra Club Bulletin. The story is in two parts,—the first, an account of the failure to make the ascent in 1903, and the second the narrative of the ultimate success in 1906. As Dr. Cook details the difficulties of the approach to Mt. McKinley during the first expedition, our appre- ciation of the magnitude of the undertaking increases. The peculiar feature of a walking trip in that land of glaciers and swamps is that traveling is largely aquatic. In the author’s own phrase, such mountaineering is “Amphibious climbing.” Certain it is that men and horses were tried to the limit of endurance by their inequality with the innumerable glacial rivers. Dr. Cook’s enthusiasm is the indispensable factor in this struggle with the wilderness. This enthusiasm speaks in the vividness with which the author pictures his experiences, in the forward rush and sweep of the narrative, in the style which has the carrying power of a glacial river, swift, compelling, and, we must confess, too often turgid. Without this enthusiasm no one would have faced a second time the difficulties of the ascent. And we find Dr. Cook entering upon the second expedition with the spirit of con- quest. He takes us a second time into the realm of the Norse gods, and he shows us how indomitable courage triumphed, and two men succeeded in making the ascent in defiance of the whole hierarchy of frost and fire. It seems fitting that the first ascent of Mt. McKinley should have been made by Americans. Typographically the work is pleasing. The listing of maps with numerous more or less important illustrations is a mistake, as one may very easily overlook the indispensable map of the McKinley region until he has read the first half of the book. Four appendices, containing maps showing the distribution of minerals, timber, and game, and the railway routes, and other information concerning Alaska, add to the value of the volume. M. Je: * To the Top of the Continent; Discovery, Exploration, and Adventure in Sub-Arctic Alaska. By Frepertck A. Coox. M. D. Doubleday, Page & Company, New York. Pp. 321. $2.50 net. Juiy, 1907. Book Reviews. YO-HO! YO-HO! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! When in the east with red aglow The morning breaks o’er Dana’s crest, The camp awakes fresh from its rest And hears the call it joys to know, : Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Where beetling cliffs their shadows throw O’er Lake Merced, where mountain wall Sends back the cry, floats on the call In early dawn, in ev’ning glow, Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Where stretch unbroken fields of snow, Where Ritter’s walls abruptly rise To tow’ring crags that kiss the skies, We hear the call, now loud, now low, Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Where mad Toul’mne’s waters flow Through yawning gorge, and find a way Down dizzy steeps in mist and spray, Echoes the call, above, below, Yo-ho! Yo-ho! Francis M. Futtz. 533) 334 Sterra Club Bulletin. RORESTRY “NODES: EDITED BY PROFESSOR WILLIAM R. DUDLEY. Increase in the area of the National For- ests—formerly known as Forest Reserves— has taken tremendous strides in the two years now past. Indeed the amount has practically doubled, and would cover, if made continuous, an extent of territory equal to the six New England States, the four old Middle States, Mary- land, the Virginias, and North Carolina, or about 200,000,000 acres. January I, 1907, the area was over 127,000,000 acres, and Chief Forester Pinchot, in an address showing the advance in the organization and utility of the National Forests since they were placed under the control of the Forest Service, made the following remarks :— “We have now, as you know, 127,000,000 acres in forest re- serves. All this is but a drop in the bucket compared with the total forest area of the United States, and but a small part of the forest which must be preserved if the results of forest preser- vation are to be achieved. We are doing pretty well with the Western mountains, but those Western mountains will not supply the National need. That must be done by the States and by private individuals, who will hold and manage their forests on scientific principles. Even in this comparatively small forest area, which the National Government holds, our forces are ridicu- lously inadequate. We have now, in the middle of winter, about six hundred forest rangers and about ninety forest supervisors; that is to say, a force of about seven hundred men for an area which, if it were managed as it would be managed in Prussia,— taking Prussia as an illustrationn—and we were to have as many men on our forest reserves as they would have in Prussia, we would have something over 15,000 forest supervisors and some- thing over 117,000 forest guards. We have about two hundred trained foresters to do the work which would be done in Prussia by 15,000. If we were to add a hundred men a year to our present force, and each man appointed lived and worked to the end, it would take about a hundred and fifty years to get our reserves manned in the Prussian way. We realize that unless the forest schools can begin to turn out the trained foresters we need, we shall be unable to meet the rapidly increasing demands for men in the forest reserves to handle them properly. The only reason we can do it now is because the demand for products of the reserves is comparatively small.” NEED OF TRAINED FORESTERS. Naturally the need of recruits for the forest service is very much greater now than it was eighteen months ago. A man cannot serve his country better than by faithful work in this field. Forestry Notes. 335 It is now nearly ten years since the SIERRA Ciusp BULLETIN urged the reservation of all the public domain in California that in- cluded the sources of our streams useful for water supply. This was done in the interest of small land-holders and of municipalities as against the anticipated investments of great syndicates. The United States Forester approved this plan, and, fortunately, although not quite soon enough, through him and President Roosevelt, National forests have been created over most of the desired area. The efforts of the aforesaid moneyed interests to secure concessions of the natural resources in these forested mountain regions appears at the present time to be greatest on the part of the electric-power companies. The Sierra Club has desired the great natural resources in the mountains of California to remain permanently under Federal control, that the expected use of them might be restricted to proper limits and always de- voted to the greatest benefit to the greatest number, a condition apparently impossible when they have passed to private control. The Club’s interest in forest preservation and the natural features and resources of the mountains has been broader naturally than that of the technical forester. The attitude of the Government, therefore, in regard to the privileges sought for in the National forests by these powerful corporations is one of the greatest interest. President Roosevelt in a short speech quoted in many publications, but to be found in “Forestry and Irrigation” (Vol. 14, p. 354), went to the heart of this matter. The keynote of his remarks is found in the following :— “ My position has been simply that where a privilege which may be of untold value in the future to the private individuals granted it is asked for from the Federal Government, the Federal Gov- ernment shall put on the grant a condition that it shall not be a grant in perpetuity.” This speech was made at the Governors’ Conference, May 13th to 15th. The idea of calling this conference to consider the conservation of our natural resources originated, the President ‘says, with Gifford Pinchot. Where, since the Civil War, can we _ find from a Government official a more statesman-like suggestion ? CONCESSIONS IN THE NATIONAL FORESTS. In Mr. Pinchot’s first conference with the redwood lumbermen of California—in 18909 we believe—one of the millmen expressed a regret that there was no law in California regulating and restraining, under certain circumstances, the cut- ting of trees on private lands. We have always regarded this—a common practice in Europe—as a desirable thing in America and only a logical consequence of the act of Congress under SHALL THE STATE REGULATE DEFORESTATION ? 330 Sierra Club Bulletin. which the great irrigation dams have been constructed, conserving the waters of large drainage basins, the land in which was in part owned by private parties. The Forest Service has recently sent out a synopsis of an opinion handed down by the Supreme Court of Maine, “holding that the legislature of the State has a con- stitutional right to pass laws regulating the cutting of timber on private lands, if the cutting is liable to be detrimental to the public welfare.” It was also stated “that there was nothing in the Constitution of the United States prohibiting the enforcement of a forest law of that kind.” In order to give smaller administrative units and shorter and more convenient names a general system of re-districting of the National forests took effect on July 1st. The National forests of California are now: Klamath, Trinity, California (Stony Creek), Shasta, Modoc (Modoc and Warner Mountains), Plumas (Plumas and Diamond Mountain), Lassen (Lassen Peak), Tahoe, Mono (created), Stanislaus, Sierra (Sierra North), Inyo (Inyo and Sierra East), Sequoia (Sierra South), Monterey (Monterey, Pinnacles and San Benito), San Luis (San Luis Obispo), Santa Barbara, Angeles (San Bernardino and San Gabriel), Cleveland (San Jacinto and Trabuco Cajfion). New NAMES FOR NATIONAL ForRESTS. On May 30, 1908, an amendment was passed extending the Act of June 11, 1906, which provides for the settlement and listing of tracts of agricultural land included within National forests, to apply in all counties of the State of California, with the exception of Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo. EXTENSION OF THE HOMESTEAD LAw. PUBLICATIONS OF THE SIERRA CLuB No. 1.—Articles of Association, By-Laws, and List of Members. Nos. 4 and 5.—Maps of Portions of the Sierra Nevada adjacent to the Yosemite and to King’s River, 1893. No. 8—Table of Elevations within the Pacific Coast, 1895, by Mark B. Kerr and R. H. Chapman. fo No. 12—Map of the Sierra Region, May, 1806. Nos. 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 10, II, 13, together forming Volume I., Nos. 1-8, of the SrzRRA CLUB | BULLETIN. Contents of Volume I.—Ascent of Mt. Le Conte; Address on Sierra Forest Reservation; California Outing; Crater Lake, Oregon; Diamond Hitch; Explorations North of Tuolumne River; Forest Reservations; From Fresno to Mt. Whitney, via Roaring River; From Gentry’s to El Capitan and Yosemite Falls; Grand Cafion of the Tuol- umne; Head-Waters of King’s River; Kern and King’s River Divide; King’s River and Mt. Whitney Trails; Knapsack Tours in the Sierra; Mt. Bernard; Mt. Tahoma; Mt. Whitney Trail; New Grove of Sequoia Gigantea; Notes on the Pine Ridge Trail; Route up Mt. Williamson; Search for a Route from the Yosemite to the King’s River | Cafion; Sources of the San Joaquin; Three Days with Mt. King; Through Death | Valley; Through the Tuolumne Cafion; Tramp to Mt. Lyell; Upper Sacramento in October; Notes, Correspondence, and Reports. Nos. 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19, together forming Volume II., Nos. 1-6, of the SrerRA CLuB ~ BULLETIN. Contents of Volume II.—Ascent of the White Mountains of New Mexico; Basin of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River; Conifers of the Pacific Slope, Parts I and II; | Day with Mt. Tacoma; Early Summer Excursion to the Tuolumne Cafion and Mt. Lyell; Expedition of Prince Luigi Amedeo of Savoy to Mt. St. Elias; Explorations of the East Creek Amphitheater, from Mt. Rose to Mt. Shasta and Lower Buttes; Kaweah Group; Lava Region of Northern California; Mountain Trips: What to Take and How to Take It; Neglected Region of the Sierra; Observations on the Denudation of Vegetation—Suggested Remedy for California; On Mt. Lefroy August 3, 1896; | On Mt. Lefroy August 3, 1897; Philip Stanley Abbot; Taking of Mt. Balfour; To Tehipite Valley from the King’s River Grand Cafion; Up and Down Bubb’s Creek; Wanderings in the High Sierra Between Mt. King and Mt. Williamson,—Parts I and II; | Woman’s Trip Through the Tuolumne Cafion; Yosemite Discovery; Notes, Corre- | spondence, and Reports. : | No. 20—Volume III., No. 1, pp. 1 to 118—price $1.00.—Ramblings Through the High Sierra (Reprinted from “A Journal of Ramblings,” privately printed in 1875) ; Editorial Notice; Ouzel Basin; Forestry Notes. No. 21.—Ramblings Through the High Sierra. Same as No. 20. (Specially bound; eh out Editorial Notes, etc.) No. 22.—Volume III., No. 2, pp. 119 to 188—Lake Tahoe in Winter; Ascent of “El Yunque”; Another Paradise; King’s River Cafion Trail Notes; Ascent of “Matter- horn Peak”; Reports; Notes and Correspondence; Forestry Notes. No. 23.—Volume III., No. 3, pp. 189 to 270.—Parks and Peaks in Colorado; The Work of the Division of Forestry in the Redwoods; The Mazamas on Mt. Jefferson; Wagon- Trips to the Sierra; The Big Basin; The Re-Afforesting of the Sierra Nevada; The Descent of Tenaya Cafion; An Ascent of Cathedral Peak; A Glimpse of the Winter | Sierra; Notes and Correspondence; Forestry Notes. No. 24.—Volume III., No. 4, pp. 271 to 3390—The Mazamas on Mt. Rainier; Lassen Buttes: From Prattville to Fall River Mills; Zonal Distribution of Trees and Shrubs in the Southern Sierra; Mt. Washington in Winter; Round About Mt. Dana; Notes and Correspondence; Forestry Notes; Reports. No. 25.—Volume IV., No. 1, pp. 1 to 75.—Joseph Le Conte in the Sierra; El Capitan; — Camp Muir in Tuolumne Meadows; The Sierra Club Outing to Tuolumne Meadows; In Tuolumne and Cathedral Cafions; The Great Spruce Forest and the Hermit Thrush; © From Redding to the Snow-clad Peaks of Trinity County; Trees and Shrubs in Trinity County; Notes and Correspondence; Forestry Notes; Reports. No. 26.—Vol. IV., No. 2, pp. 77 to 176.—Into the Heart of Cataract Cafion; My Trip to King’s River Cafion (Reprint) ; Conifers of the Pacific Slope, Part III; Birds of the High Mountains; Notes and Correspondence; Forestry Notes; Reports. No. No. No. No. . 28.—Vol. IV., No. 3, pp. 17 to 252. one: the Baiceee of he Sout | . 30.—Vol. V., No. I, pp. I to 85.—The Ascent of the North Pa . 31—Vol. V., No. 2, pp. 87 to 152 ——Mt. Whitney as a Site me a Meteorological servatory; The Water-Ouzel at Home; The San Francisco Peaks in April; . 32—Vol. V., No. 3, pp. 153 to 270.—First Ascent: Mt. Farapline ee ae ae . 34.—Vol. VI., No. I, pp. 1 to 74—The Sierra Club’s Ascent of Mt. ‘Raion Mt Rai i . 35.—Vol. VI., No. 2, pp. 75 to 152. hn Ascent of the Matterhorn; ‘The Name ‘ . 36—Vol. VI., No. 3, pp. 153 to 210—The Aftermath of a Club Outing; Along t "PUBLICATIONS OF THE . SIERRA CLuB—Co ? 27.—A Flora of the South hobs of King’s River from Millwood to the of Bubb’s Creek. River, Part I; With the Sierra Club in King’s River Cafion; Red-and- the Head-Waters of Fish Creek; Mt. Whitney, Whitney Creek, and Trail; A New-Year Outing in the Sierra; The vere ey of Volca Correspondence ; Forestry Notes; Reports. . 29.—Vol. IV., No. 4, pp. 253 to 323.—Among the Sources’ OF ue Ss River, Part Il; the Coast Sierra from California to Panama; ‘Ralp Memoriam) ; Climbing Mt. Brewer; Table of Elevations of Peaks i Mountains over 12,000 feet; King’: s "River Outing, 1902—Botanical Kern’s Grand Cafion; Reports; Notes and Correspondence; Fore Sierra Glaciers; How Private Burns Climbed Mt. Pinathbo; The the Forest; The Notable Mountaineering of the Sierra Club in 1903; the Sierra ‘Club; The Completed Le Conte Memorial Lodge; ke if respondence ; F orestry Notes. Roe Harrison’ s Pass with Animals; The Ascent of San Antonio; Secretary's 'S Magee) urer’s Report; Notes and Correspondence ; Forestry Notes. morial Exercises: Mt. Lyell and Mt. Ritter Ascents by Sierra Club Outing of 190 A Deer’s Bill of Fare; Domes and Dome Structure of the High Sierra; Some Aspe of a Sierra Club Outing; The Evolution Groups of Peaks; mk. Notes and Co respondence; Book Reviews ; Forestry Notes. | 33.—Vol. V., No. 4, pp. 271 to 328. —The Grade Profile in. Apia Glacial Bieae Systematic Asymmetry of Crest-Lines in the High Sierra of California; The Tuolum Cafion; Inscription for the Le Conte Memorial; Over Harrison’s Pass from the Nc with a Pack-Train; California Forestry Law; Reports; Notes and wine duran! ii Book Reviews; Forestry Notes. sg Mt. Shasta, and Mt. "Whitney as Sites for Meteorological Observatories; The Sky-Lin the Tatoosh Range, Mt. Rainier National Park; The Effect of the Partial. Suppres of Annual Forest Fires in the Sierra Nevada Mountains; In Memoriam; Jo: Le Conte; Wild Animals of Mt. Rainier National Park; The Sierran pees ae N otes and Correspondence ; Book Reviews; Forestry Notes. All of above are out of print, having been destroyed in the fire of April 1 18, ne Rainier’; T he Second King’s River Outing; The Motion of the Nisqually Gla Mt. ‘Rainier ; Report on the King’s River Cafion and Vicinity; Reports; Notes Correspondence; Book Reviews; Forestry Notes; Revised By-Laws of the Sierra Cc Foothills to Lake Chabot; Mt. Rose Weather Observatory; The Ascent of Asam Yama; Reports; Secretary's Report; Treasurer's Report; Notes and Corresponde Book Reviews; Forestry Notes. PIE eas 37.—Vol. VI., No. 4, pp. 211 to 284. —The. Hetcy! -Hetchy liege To Jocuals Vas a Poem; Lake Ramparts; The Grand Cafions of the Tuolumne and the Merced; Water-Ouzel, a Poem; Photograph of the -Water-Ouzel; Bird Life of Y Park; An Easterner’s ‘Impressions of a Sierra Club Outing; Indian | Pate Valley; Reports; Notes and Correspondence; Book Reviews ; # wii 3 9088 01354 421