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Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Ace TS LINDSEY:

I. A VoyacE ‘ro Srrka.—Historical and Descriptive.
Il. GEOGRAPHICAL. CLIMATIC. POPULATION.
Ill. SourHern ALAskaA.——Plans for improving the Natives.

IV. SUGGESTIONS CONCERNING SCHGOLS AND BUILDINGS—
Ways and Means.

V. RELATIONS OF THE PEOPLE OF THE UNITED STATES
TO THE CIVILIZATION OF THE NATIVE ALASKAN sS.——A Letter
addressed to President Hayes.

VI. Report to THE SYNOD OF THE COLUMBIA, 1880.

VII. PRresENr CoNDITION OF THE WorRK, May, 1881.—By 5.
H. Young, Fort Wrangel, Alaska.

PREFATORY.
Efforts for the Introduction of Civilisation into Alaska,

Upon extending the sovereignty of the United States over Alaska, the mili-
tary, judicial, and post office departments for that Termtory centred at Port-
land, Oregon. The Executive Committee of the Presbytery of Oregon, whose
chairman was (and is still) pastor of the church in that city, was thus placed in
the most favorable situation for gathering information touching the character
and condition of the inhabitants. Interviews were held with Ex-Secretary
Seward and party, on their return from Alaska: and the officers of the Govern-
ment, military and civil, have always been ready to communicate facts, the
knowledge of which was indispensable in order to devise any efficient measures

for the improvement of the people.

The situation was from time to time made known to both the Foreign and
Flome Boards of the church, and encouraging responses came back ; but no one
was found to enter the untried region. The Home Board appointed one mis-
sionary who declined without ever visiting it.

2 Sketches of an Lxcurston to Southern Alaska.

A schooi and regular religious meetings were started at Fort Wrangel, with
the expectation which Gen. Howard and the writer had fostered, that they
would be sustained by the American people. And when the time for the re-
moval of the troops from Alaska approached, the writer could no longer hesitate.
The emergency dictated immediate action, or the surrender of all that had been
attempted by us.

The efforts which were begun in the mother Presbytery of Oregon, were con-
tinued when the Synod of the Columbia was organized. Under the authority
of the Synod, a memorial was forwarded to the General Assembly of 1877,
setting forth some of the facts, and praying for the Church’s intervention for
that neglected Territory. No doubt could exist but that the Assembly would
take decisive action. But that memorial was kept back. It wasin the Assem- |
buy but was not laid before it. The writer had dispatched a member of his
church, J. C. Mallory, Jr., to assume the charge of the mission and the school,
to take a survey of the situation, especially at Sitka andFort Wrangel. Mr.
Mallory had the support of the military and the promise of an appointment from
the Indian Bureau. ‘The failure of the action in the Assembly left the entire
charge, including rents, salaries and outfits in individual hands. And Mrs. Mc-
Farland another member of the writer’s church was added to the misssionary
force, and sent thither under the same urgency of the situation. The individuay
responsibility of the writer did not cease until the following year 1878.

Information respecting the condition of the Alaskans was very limited, and
lacked the definiteness which was indispensable in the prosecution of the mis-
sionary work. Mr. Mallory’s rcports were useful, but he early left the field.
The letters of missionaries were necessarily confined to a very limited area,
Rey. S. Jackson, D. D.,had, at the writer’s request, accompanied Mrs. McFar-
land to Fort Wrangel, where he spent a few days and returned by the same
trip of the steamer to Portland. To obtain further information the Home
Board designated the writer to make a visit to Southern Alaska to survey the
ground and report.

Some of the results of a very arduous and conscientious exploration are em-
bodied in the following pages. The sketches and reports were duly forwarded.
to the Board of Home Missions, under whose commission the writer was act-
yng. The third report was made to both the Synod and Board, which will
account for some repetitions.

The Synod of the Columbia has requested the publication of these docu
ments in view of their permanent value as belonging to the history of the in-
troduction of christian civilization into Alaska, and for the information of the-
public. he third report was printed in the Synod’s minutes, 1879. The sub-
istance of the fifth report addressed in the form of a Letter to the President of
the United States, was published at the Executive Mansion under the Pres-
dent’s auspices. The other reports have been multiplied by copying and
and sent to influential persons. But the circulation has been quite limited.
In preparing them for the present publication they have been considerably
abridged,

A Voyage to Sitka..—Historical and Descriptive. 3

It it due to the cause to say that the observation and experience accrued
since these pages were written, have required no essential change in the views
taken, or plans proposed. A few modifications in estimates have been made
and a few geographical descriptions improved.

In the original preparation as well as in the subsequent revision, the author
has had the valuable assistance of Rev. S. H. Young, the missionary bishop
of Alaska.

REPORT NO. I.
Voyage to Sitka.—Historical and Descriptive.

0d :
; od *F
PORTLAND, OREGON. JUNE; 10, 1879.

Low vue REV. CYRUS) DIGKSON, DAD ED:

‘Corresponding Secretary of the 6. H. M. of the PresbyterianChurch, U.S.A.
° PRELIMINARY.

I have the honor to report that in the fulfillment of the Board’s commission
I made the journey to Alaska, spent several weeks there, embracing every op-
portunity to gain imformation, and for this purpose spent some time before
starting, and since my return.

But for the unexpected allotment of carrying the unsettled accounts for
freights and building materials, and the proyision of means to pay for
these, I should have been able to prepare my report at an earlier date. Being
partially relieved of the burden by Treasurer Eaton’s telegram of the 8th
inst., [now undertake my report.

ARRIVAL OF GUESTS.

On the 19th of June I conducted a missionary meeting in honor of the ar-
rival of the Rev. Dr. Kendall, your colleague, and the Rey. Dr. Jackson, the
missionary of the Synod of Colorado, and on the Sunday following they oc-
cupied my pulpit. We received these gentlemen cordially, opening to them
our doors and our hearts, and giving publicity in every way to their visit, I
also wrote to various members of the Synod of Dr. Kendall’s arrival, making
arrangements for interviews with the ministers and meetings with the people.

CONTRIBUTIONS AT PORTLAND FOR THE FORT WRANGEL CHURCH.

Some accounts which reached me of collections for the Fort Wrangel
missions proved to be erroneous. I had already employed a builder, paid his

4 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

passage thither and set him at work on the presumption that Dr. Kendall or
Dr. Wilson would transmit to me funds to go on with the work. But I could
discover no contributions for a house of worship there, except the subscription
at Fort Wrangel.

| immediately raised several hundred dollars in this city. We had to pur-
chase here materials which could not be obtained at Wrangel, and I carried
up with me a large quantity of these on the ship. This secured the prosecu-
tion of the work.

THE YOYAGE,
THE SCENERY. GEOLOGICAL THEORIES ILLUSTRATED.

On the 8th of July, I started on my journey with my wife, whose warm in-
terest in the Alaskan mission had beem manifested for years, who had co-oper-
ated with me in the Alaskan work, as well as in all our missionary enterprises,
and who is we!l acquainted with the missionaries who had been sent thither,
every one of whom had been our guests, and set out on their missionary
work from the threshold of our home. On the 9th, we took passage on the
regular mail steamer *‘ California” at Port Townsend, at the outlet of Puget
Sound, in company with Dr. and Mrs. Kendall, Dr. and Mrs. Jackson and
Miss Dunbar. The next day we left Victoria, British Columbia, and the
prow of our vessel turned toward the north.

The scenery both on land and water, which is justly celebrated for its novy-
elty, beauty and grandeur, was spread all around us, and which continued to
attract our delighted attention. The entire navigat on, extending over one
thousand miles, lies sheltered from the ocean by almost innumerable islands ;
and, with the exception of two or three places, the ocean is both unseen and
unfelt.

The landscape is a unique study in geology, The uniformitarian will be
sadly perplexed to account for these precipitous heights and abysmal depths,
on the theory of the slow and imperceptible action of natural forces. On the
other hand, the theory of catastrophism will find abundant illustration through
these channels.

The slow disintegrating processes required by the theory of uniformity to
break down the sides of these lofty cliffs, and to carve out and excavate
these unfathomable gulfs, would consume eras of duration, the magnitude of
which would surpass the wildest geologic calculations.

A vast series of islands stretches along to the left, seaward. Many of them
are insignificant ; some of them are regularly submerged by the tides. The
Jargest is Vancouuer, which stretches along the coast nearly two hundred
miles, and across which runs, the 49th parallel. Among these islands hes the
most unique voyage on this continent, and in one respect, probably, without
a parallel on this planet. I refer to the bend of these channels as running
with a great degree of uniformity parallel with the coast of the mainland.

A Voyage to Sitka.—Ftistorical and Descriptive. 5

In some instances, where islands lie abreast, the frend is duplicated with a
degree of exactness which is very remarkable. There are many cross channels
striking out at different angles, multiplying the beauty and diversity of the
scene ;_ but the general uniformity of the trend suggests, in a instant, a vast
geologic convulsion, which shot through the Earth, as chain lightning through
the sky, and split off a portion of the continental mass, which, falling into the
sea, was dislocated and dissolved by the in-rushing waters, into the thousand
islands that are now scattered along the coast.

Perchance the anthropoids, reeling on these dizzy heights, rocked in the
throes of these convulsions, gazed down into fathomless abysses. But for a
moment only, for then came the irresistible forces of the sea, pouring through
innumerable cataracts the overwhelming flood, and with resounding clamors,
beating agamst the impregnable fastnesses of the continent, until, as in the
creation, the Spirit of God brooded over the face of the deep, and there
was a great calm.

The proofs of glacial action are also abundant, and appear in the most in-
teresting forms. The slowly sculptured rocks, the glaciers still in operation,
and beds of extinct glaciers, are everywhere in view, suggesting long ages of
time to account for the changes which this imperceptible force has wrought
upon the landscape.

The advocates of the contending theories may shake hands over these chasms,
as the Neptunians and Plutonians did over their controversy in the early history
of this science, for it shall come about at the last, doubtless, that both theories-
shall be accepted and the antagonism cease.

One hundred and seventy miles south of Fort Wraugel, we passed Methlak-
atla, the scene of Mr. Duncan’s efforts and successes in civilizing Indians.
The view at a distance of five miles was inspiring. The buildings wore the ap-
rance of neatness ; and most conspicuous among them, were the church, the
town hall, and the school-house. One word,—‘‘isolation”—suggests the pecu-
liarities of Mr. Duncan’s plan. Of this, I shall report hereafter. Tariff
regulations prohibited our vessel from landing without a permit, to which
a considerable fee is attached.

Eighteen or twenty miles beyond Methlakatla, is Fort Simpson, a trading
post of the Hudson Bay Company, situated at the mouth of the Nass River,
not far from the Tongass Inlet, and the Portland Channel. The latter two
being in Alaska, we here cross the invisible boundary, and are once more float-
ing on ‘‘American” waters. This word designating the United States, I found
to be as prevalent here as any where else.

Proceeding onward one hundred and fifteen miles, through scenes of extra-
ordinary beauty and variety, we enter Etholine Bay. It excites the admiration,
and even surprise, of all beholders. I think as tourists shall make its attractions
more familiar, it will be classed among the beautiful bays of the world.

Six or eight miles distant, lies a scene which awakens in my mind a keener
interest. I recognize it in an instant; and I lose sight of the peculiarities cf its

6 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

location, in the thought of the spiritual majesty with which it is invested. It
belongs to the visible Kingdom of God. As we approached, my eye rested upon
arange of snow-capped mountains, disclosed through a long vista, one of which,
an obtuse cone, towered above the others, clothed in the purest whiteness, and
upon which the sun poured a sparkling flood. I accepted it as an emblem to
be transferred to our Alaska banner,—the Sun and the robe of righteousness.

The few hours of detention at Fort Wrangel, were spent in choice commun-
ion with christian friends, and in renewals of acquaintance. We also surveyed
the sites for the church and school-house. ‘They are eligible, at a point of
elevation which commands an extensive view of the bay and islands, and yet
quite accessible from all parts of the town,

After seeing all my freight safely landed, we proceeded on our voyage to
Sitka, nearly two hundredmiles. The largest exposure to the open sea occurs
between these two points, the time being about seven hours.

\

The scenery is very attractive. The mountain landscape, through which our
voyage had already penetrated, was marked by its abrupt and rugged features,
not without beautiful but limited variation. Islands equally diversify the
scene, but a larger proportion rises only a few feet above the level of the sea.
Now and then aplain comesinto view, which upon nearer inspection, shrinks
into a promontory. Our advance dissipates another illusion. Yonder plain
contracts into a wide margin running along the foot-hill or mountain. And
yet another, where the fancied plain breaks into a succession of islands, and
the watery waste asserts its wonted dominion where we supposed (square:
leagues of land were lying.

Though we felt the motion of the open sea, islands, mountains and snowy
peaks were ever in view. As we turned from these well defined objects toward
the ocean the contrast was very impressive. The visible horizon, closing upon
the line where sky and water meet, is well defined by distant clouds, the shad-
owy counterparts of the unchanging mountain summits. Anon, no cloud inter-
cepts the view, and the mind longs to pierce the dim distance and inspect the
objects which lie below the horizon.

The course of our voyage soon conyeys us into another labyrinth. Is-
lands re-appear in every direction. The passages between them, though
often narrow, are sometines broadened into seas. The prospect, therefore, is
less confined, Mt. Edgecombe a solitary abtuse cone, rises in the distance.
The bays and channels are sleeping in perfect calm. The mountains around
Sitka come into view. ‘The steadiness of our ship, and the calm upon the deep,
create the illusion that every object above the water is in motion, describing
the revolutions of a vast panorama, the nearer objects slowly, the distant ob-
jects swiftly, changing their positions.

Centered in this vast amphitheatre, ‘we suddenly catch sight of the terminal.
point of our voyage.

A Voyage to Sitka.—Fitstorical and Deecriptive. 7

SITKA.-—MISS KELLOGG S SCHOOL.

The nation’s flag flies from the lofty staff on the old castle, the most conspic-
uous object on shore. The naval ship, ‘‘ Jamestown,” lies in the roads, gaily
decked with flags ; a little schooner is anchored near ;_ the steamer ‘ Rose”
is keeled up on the beach. Beyond are the spacious government buildings, and
the main street on a plateau of a mile or two in extent, skirting an inner bay
dotted sea-ward with islands. Among the public buildings the most conspic-
uous is the Russo-Greek Church.

Inland the mountains lift their lofty crests, and describe an irregular semi-
circle open toward the ocean. Apart from these and opposite the town, a
league or two distant, a land-mark, far out at sea, stands Mt. Edgecombe, the
grandest object in the scenery.

The town site is eligible. It presents a large water front for commerce.
The climate is reported to be salubrious, the temperature, moderate. The sea
and forest provide abundant food. The staple vegetables mature here, and
are now flourishing in the gardens. Blueberries and salinonberries abound.
Nutritious grasses cover the spacious area.

Nature has been partial to the beautiful landscape. We speak of her lavish
hand. WUHere is an instance of her bounty. Only a little industry and thrift
apphed to the means and materials at hand, would make this not only a beau-
titul site, but a beautiful city.

Beyond the stockade, yet adjacent to the town, is the Indian quarter. It
skirts the harbor. The port-holes of the naval ship frown dangerously near.
No insurrection is to be apprehended while a naval vessel floats in these wa-
ters; but its presence is quite as much needed to regulate lawless white men,

as to overawe turbulent natives.

This is the scene of Miss Kellogg’s school labors. (Good accounts of them
reached my ears. I found some of her pupils. One of these, her interpreter,
guided me to the cabin where Aunick, another of her pupils, lay sick. He
was in a wretched condition. Through the interpreter, I tested his knowledge
of the gospel, and was surprised at the correctness of his answers. He im-
pressed me with the belief that his knowledge was experimental. Miss Kellogg
had taught him the way of life, and he was now looking unto Jesus. My heart
was touched as nothing else had touched it since I entered Alaska. Here was
a soul saved through the instrumentality of our missionary. It was a salvation
almost completed by the stroke of death,—for the malady was mortal. After
an interview ended in prayer, I left Aunick, thankful for the privilege of say-
ing afew words of comfort to a fellow disciple,—one of our first fruits in

Alaska,

Sitka was the most important port of the whole Russian empire, east of
Archangel, on either side of the Pacific, or on the frozen ocean. Its legal
bame was New Archangel.

8 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Manufactories were established here, among them a ship-yard, when ves-
sels were built and equipped from keel to yard-arm. Steam-boat building
was carried on under the supervision of an American citizen named Moore, the
machinery being cast in the Sitka foundry. One of his steamers was of large
dimensions, and performed important service up and down the coast.

The hospital was so thoroughly furnished and so completely managed, as to
win the admiration of Sir George Simpson, President of the Hudson Bay
Company, who bestowed upon it high praise, by saying that it would do no
discredit to the city of London. Five hundred Russians were employed heie,
who, with their families, forme! a population of twelve hundred persons.

These immense public buildings, now empty and decaying, were then the
scene of busy activity. These ancient guns, whose mountings are now rotting
away, then frowned from the lofty castle walls. That parapet, broad and once
firm under the tread of military guardians, now warns you back as it trem-
bles beneath you.

Further along on the main street were the shops and dwellings of engineers,
armorers, tin-smiths, jewelers, builders and cabinet-makers. Some of these
buildings are abandoned now.

FORMER RELIGIOUS STATE.

The Russian government exercised a species of paternal care over all its
subjects. ude and peremptory though it was, still it was useful in many
respects, and adapted to a half-civilized people. This was observable in the
religous care in all parts of the empire, and Alaska was not neglected. Sitka
was the seat of the diocese, which embraced all of Russian America, including
the Alutian Islands, together with the northeastern part of Asia. On his mis-
sionary journeys, the Bishop was attended by a number of priests and acolytes.
It is written of one of them that he spared neither himself nor his clergy,
whe were constantly engaged in their sacred calling, encountering many
hardships and dangers. Sir Geo. Simpson, previously referred to, who. made
several voyages to Russian America, and who had very favorable opportunities
for forming correct opinions, speaks in high terms of the Bishop’s character,
industry and piety. He says further: ‘*The conduct of the Russo Greek cler-
gy in general, appeared to me to deserve great commendation, both as to the
performance of their duties, and the observance of their vows.”

The evidence derived from various sources, is conclusive, that the cause of
religion was sustained by the Russian Government. Through the faithfulness
of the ecclesiastics, large numbers of the natives were converted. Whole tribes,
in same instances, adopted the Christianity of the Greek church. Many houses

of worship were built, some of which are still in use.
PRESENT CONDITION OF THE GREEK CITURCH.
Archbishop Nestor, of the Greek Church, is now performing an Episcopal

journey through Alaska. All accounts of him, which I have seen, give him
credit for faithfulness in the discharge of his official duties.

A Voyage to Sitka.—Historical and Descriptive

: 9

‘Yhe adherents of the Greek Church are found first, at Sitka; westward,
on Cook’s Inlet; on the great peninsula of Alaska; on Kodiak, south of it ;
Ounalaska, and other Alutian Islands, stretching far westward, and the vast
region north of the great peninsula, running up to Behring’s Straits, up the
valley of the Yukon, and thence northward to the frozen ocean. A vast re-
gion indeed ; but the population is very meagre. At Sitka a few Russians
and half-breeds form the church ; on Kodiak it is reported that the entire
population.of every stripe does not exceed sixteen hundred; the Aleuts are
reckoned at from four to six thousand; and the entire body of the Eskimos
north of the great peninsula only a few thousands more !

MISSIONARY SURVEY OF SITKA AND SURROUNDINGS.

The Sitka Indians belong to a tribe of the same name, which occupies this
and a few other points on the coast. Owing to their position and intelligence,
they are quite influential. Their habitations are built like those of other tribes
of the Tlinket nation, of huge timbers, and thick plank skillfully hewed into
shape. They exhibit great ingenuity in making their canoes and other con-
‘rivances.. But of the mechanical skill of the Tlinket people I shall speak
hereafter.

North-west of Baranoff.Island, on which Sitka is located, the next large
island is Tchitchagofi, (now pronounced Nichagoff,) upon which an interesting
body of the natives is found called Hoonyahs, who are reported to be warlike,
and indisposed to receive missionaries and teachers, which, no doubt, means
that they decline to receive the visits of corrupt and disorderly white men.
But my informant admitted that his knowledge was too limited to givea correct
opinion of the whole tribe.

On the presumption that you have before you a map of the country, I pro-
ceed to direct your attention to what is called Lynn Canal, northward from
Sitka; the extreme point of the intrusion of the sea upon the continent in this
unparalleled series of straits, channels, inlets and sounds, connected with a
like unparalleled series of islands, and even archipelagoes. This embraces a
region from the southern extreme of Alaska, 54° 40', up to the mouth of
Chilcat River, a distance of four hundred miles in a straight line. Geologically
considered, the characteristics of this region extend, however, westward
the great peninsula, embracing inlets and islands, the
being Prince William Sound, Cook’s Inlet and

being about seven hundred miles from Sitka.

most importa
Kodiak Island, the latter
In giving my vicws respecting
localities for opening missions, I shall refer to these geographical features.
The two days spent at Sitka were filled up with inquiries pertaining to the
sacred object of my visit. My secretary wes alike busily employed ; and we
wete not satisfied with visits of mere formality, but sought information from
every competent source. We interviewed Col. Ball, collector of the district ;
Cap*. Beardslee, commander of the U. S. S. “Jamestown,” anchored in port :
Mojor Berry, former collector; A. T. Whitford, the noted dealer in curiosities,
and other traders ; also, Rev. N. I. Metropolsky, the Russian priest; Mrs.

10 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Kastrometinoff, an intelligent Russian lady ; Mrs. Goldstein, of the Hebrew
persuasion ; Mrs. Ball, the collector’s wife; Mrs. Metropolsky, the priest’s
wife ; Jukoff a Russian half-breed, a trusted interpreter and an adherent of the
Greek church; Alisky. an intelligent miner; and a few aborigines. Several
of these persons spoke in high terms of respect and of admiration for Miss
Kellogg and her work, with which they were familiar, Rev. Mr. Brady was
here. These persons were sought out as representatives, qualified to give in-
telligent opinions. These opinions were doubtless tinctured by peculiarities
of nationality, culture, religion and habits good and bad. My aim was not
to impress my own views nor even to express them; but by the help of God’s
Spirit to extract the wisdom which might be found in theirs.

I left Sitka with the conviction"that we had tasted the waters of every
fountain. I may say here that we practised this method from the beginning,
and all through, We improved every opportunity to gain information.

SALMON FISHERIES.

A few miles from Sitka, at Hunter’s Point, a large salmon cannery is in full
operation. Natives are employed in the various departments, in some of these
under the direction of ‘* white” men. The fishing is exclusively in the hands
of the natives, the pay for which is a half cent per pound, for* fish weighing
ten pounds and upwards. All below that weight are thrown out. The ayver-
age weight when I was there was sixteen pounds. Much larger fish were
being taken, however, some of them weighing three or four times the average.

This establishment is near the site of old Sitka; which was forsaken in the
year 1804, in consequence of its indefensible position. |The natives had risen
and massacred a large number of the inhabitants. The site of the present city
S superior in every particular. Another cannery is established at Klawok, on
Prince of Wales Island.

On the i7th of July we re-crossed the beautiful bay and landed at Wran-
gel, which was to be our home for a .month.

AT WRANGEL AGATN. BUILDINGS.

The carpenter whom [ had sent up from Portland, proved to be a suitable
man for our work. Under Mr. Young’s supervision, the sites for both church
and school had been cleared of the brush, and prepared for building. We had
adopted the plans for the church before the materials were shipped from Port-
land, and this work was therefore progressing smoothly,

The plans for the Home and School, which were brought from the Last,
were found to be unsuitable and too expensive. Estimates for the new plan
were made and orders for materials forwarded by return steamer. Before leay-
ing Portland I had made conditional bargains for these, and had contracted for
transportation at a reduction of about one-third. So everything was ready to
proceed. Upon applying the plan to the site some grave measures were
discovered. To provide for these deficiencies, a basement, for which the
ground was well adapted, was added to the plan. This increased the ex-

\

A Voyage to Sitka.—Historical and Descriptive. BI

pense of the one building, but considerably lessened the cost of the whole es-
tablishment, by, obviating the necessity of additions, or of separate buildings.

on the site.
PREPARATION FOR THE ORGANIZATION OF THE CHURCH.
SABBATH SERVICES.

Instructed by the Presbytery of Oregon to organize a church at lort
Wrangel, and knowing that Mr. Young was preparing for this great event be-
fore our arrival, we proceeded in a private and informal manner to examine
persons whom Mr. Young regarded as most likely to be qualified for public
profession. Proceeding with due caution and deliberation, we examined some
thirty natives in this way, from time to time. The date selected for the or
ganization was the first Sabbath in August. On the next Sabbath, the 20th
of July, the barracks were crowded with Indians and whites—a motly assem

bly.

During the Sabbaths we spent at Wrangel, the visitors, Drs. Jackson and
Kendall and myself conducted the public worship, under Mr. Young’s direc-
tion. Bro. Young has been here almost a year, and has acquired a facile use
of the {Chinook dialect, universally adopted on this coast as the means o
communication between the Indians of different tribes and ‘‘ whites.”’
{ was especially interested and gratified at the propriety aud solemnity
with which Bro. Young offered prayer in Chinook. Owing to the common:
and even vulgar use of the ‘‘jargon,” as it is generally termed, I had imagined
it would be impossible to offer prayer in it in a becoming manner.

EXCURSIONS.

Before starting on this journey, I had projected excursions to the Chilcat
Country, Fort Simpson, Methlakatla, up the Stahkeen River, and into the Prince
of Wales Archipelago. This would embrace tbe exploration of the entire in-
sular and mainland region of Southern Alaska, extending from 54° 40' along
the great bend of the coast to Sitka, and one hundred miles beyond it. <A
number of tourists on board the steamer readily fell inte these plans. One of

these trips was dependent upon the use of a steamboat at Sitka, which we
found disabled ; and that excursion was therefore giyen up.

TOWARDS LYNN CANAL.

But on returning to Wrangel we started on the excursion to the Chilcats.
To our party were added Rev. Mr. Young, Mrs. McFarland, Mr. and Mrs.
Vanderbilt. Miss Dunbar remained at Wrangel in charge of the ‘‘Home.”
We took with us, also, Kadishan, a Stahkeen chief, who was well acquainted
with the country and people whom we were going to visit, and who actéd as
our pilot, and Kwankeh, his wife.

On Monday, July 21st, we started on this excursion. The distance was re-
ported to be something less than two hundred miles. One of my objects was
gratified, namely, near inspection of the mainland, and actual entrance upou

der circumstances favorable to forming just opinions of it.

2 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

We coasted along the mainland, westward, to Prince Frederick’s Sound, into
which we entered. Continuous forests and impenetrable thickets hid the earth
from our view where anything like level landscape appeared. But most of
the way, mountains descended abruptly to the water’s edge, and beneath it at
the same angle into unmeasured depths. Above, the forests extended up th
mountain sides with a degree of uniformity, and beyond, the growth of trees,
shrubbery, and moss crept upward often to the very summits. Defiles dis-
closed less timber and loftier mountains, often covered with snow; or local
glaciers in active operation. A few of the glaciers descended to the water’s
edge. At one of these we spent a few hours. No white man on board had
ever seen it; but Kadishan knew the locality, and piloted us to it.

INSPECTION OF THE GLACIER:

It is estimated to be nearly two miles wide. Several streams were flowing
from it into the sea. The moraine covered several square miles. The near view
of it exhibited the ice in its varied forms, with pinnacles intercepted by deep
crevasses, in which the intense blue of the ice appeared. The course of the
glacier could be traced several miles ; and on either side tributaries joined the
main trunk—frozen streams entering a frozen river.

We approached this glacier in a steam-boat, through a channel between
mountains of granite, which bore the indelible mark of glacial action. The
channel itself was excavated by the glacier, whose supplies were drawn from
ithese elevations upon which we were gazing. The direction of the warm cur-
rent from the Pacific, the increased temperature, had abridged the vast glacier,
which had lain within the embraces of these lofty peaks. We surveyed the
scene and traversed the landscape with great admiration and delight, this being
the first opportunity for most of us to inspect a glacier, the slowest, and yet
among the most effective forces of nature. At the other extremity of nature’s
forces stands volcanic action, and throughout the vast region which surrounded
us for many a hundred leagues in every direction, there were the evidences of
the action of both these forces. Though they differ so widely in the time
employed to produce great changes, yet they have left their signatures upon
the face of the landscape, equally legible and ineffaceable. Afterwards, there
were three glaciers in view at the sime time

a wonderful sight to us who
were unaccustomed to such scenery. All the glaciers were on the mainland.

ESTIMATE OF THE MAINLAND.

We were compelled, in consequence of the slow progress of our steamer, to
return before we had accomplished the main object of this trip, which was mis-
sionary. But I obtained such definite information respecting the people and
their disposition toward receiving teachers, that I feel warranted in expressing
my views about the entire region with confidence.

The insular scenery presented no new features ; but the survey of the main-
land agreed with accounts of persons whose journeys in the interior, or in vari-
ous directions, enabled them to give a description of it, from actual inspection,
as this was my first extended contact with it, and as I had no other opportunity

A Voyage to Sitka. Historical and Descriptive. 13

afterward of the same kind, I will reserve my opinion of the country for the
present, only saying, that on the entire route of one hundred and forty miles
I did not discover enough land insular or continental, that could be readily re-
duced to cultivation, to make a half-score of ordinary farms.

THE DESERTED VILLAGE,

The next day we went to the site of the old Stahkeen town. It was a beau
tiful situation, looking out upon the sea, sheltered, and with sunny exposure:
In the bay were several islands. One of them was kept sacred as a burial
place. The tombs were visible at a distance. These were strong boxes
raised above the ground for protection, built in the shape of houses, sometimes
painted, and within which the remains are deposited. We could not but ad-

mire the rude taste, as well as the sentiments which were thus conveyed.

The town was abandoned when the Stahkeen people eriigrated to Wrangel,
their present head-quarters. The buildings were falling into decay ; but
enough remained to impress us with the fact that their mechanical skill was of
no recent origin. The Stahkeens occupied this site for generations past >
and here were Immense wooden houses that might have been standing a cen-
tury ago, judging from the condition of the wooden buildings, which I had
examined on the Atlantic coast, and which are known to have been erected be-
fore the Revolutionary war. Those buildings were frail ; these built of mas-
sive timbers and posts of cedar, the most durable wood. The posts were from
two to three feet in diameter, some round and others squared. ‘The planks for
floors were several inches thick. The mortise and tenon work in the frame
joined with accuracy, and other mechanical contrivances appeared in these
structures. All were large, and some immense. I measured one house
sixty by eighty feet.

The domestic life is patriarchal, several families being gathered under one
roof. Genealogies were kept for ages ; and honors and distinctions made he-
reditary. To mark these, insignia, like a coat-of-arms, were adopted ; and in
rude carvings they strove to represent them. I could decipher, also, the paint
ings that once figured these upon the posts and sides of houses. The eagle
the whale, the bear and the otter, and other animals of sea and land, were the
favorites, oft-times coupied with a warrior in the attitude of triumph. — Gigan-
tic representations of these family emblems were erected near the house, on
posts, twenty or thirty feet high, covered with carvings of various animals, and
the devices stained with permanent pigments of black, red and blue. — Imag-
inary creatures, resembling griffins or dragons, and reminding you of the
mammoth animals that flourished in a distant geological period, were carved
on the posts or pictured on the walls. Raised figures resembling hieroglyph-
ics and Asiatic alphabets were carved on the inside walls.

Some of the posts containing the family coat-of-arms, thus highly carved
and decorated according to the native taste, were used as receptacles for the re-
mains of the dead, gathered up after cremation. Great sacredness was at-
tached to them. To injure one was to insult the family to which it belonged,

to cut one down was an unpardonable offence.

ded Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

did not know. We did not know the origin of this stone even, which [ hold
inmy hand. Some of our wise men said that yale (the crow) made it and
made all things. Some said the other spirits made us and all things. Dark-
ness was over all the land and we groped about and could find no light. ‘But
you sent the missionaries. They brought God’s word with them. They open-
ed our eyes. Now we know God, who made this stone, and all things besides.

And we are not afraid of God, as we were afraid of the Yale. God is our
Father ; He loved us and sent His Son to die that we might not be punished.

I have shown you how we used to fight. I was in many wars, and was fond
of fighting. But now God’s word has said to us to fight no more, and to love
eur enemies, j

Before Mr. Young came, we Indians were in our canoes trying to reach the
shore in vain. <A strong wind was driving us out into the ocean, and the storm
was beating down upon us. We were heartsick and perishing. But we heard
God’s voice calling us, and saw Jesus Christ coming to help us, and we
took him aboard, and he steered the canoe through the waves, and brought us
to the land. Now we are safe in the harbor. Now there is no storm. ‘The
winds have driven the clouds away, and all is peace, because you have taught
us to love God and obey Jesus Christ. Now we live in God, for we know He
loved us, and we put our trust in Him. :

The first white people that came among us had white skins and black hearts.
They were wicked men. They taught us many eyil practices. They spoiled
our children, bought or stole our daughters, and soon cast them off. They
robbed, and poisoned, and murdered us. We thought all white men were
alike, and that we would all soon perish under the white man’s lust, and our
own folly and madness. But we found out that there was a difference among
the whites. Some came who did not try to eat us up. We found out the
cause of the difference when you sent missionaries. Now we learn to love
others as ourselves, and to do good, even to our enemies. We learn God’,
will, and try to do it. Now we know you treat us as brethren; and again we
thank you for coming to see us.”

TOW-AH-ATT’S ADDRFSS TO INDIANS.

Turning to the Indians from other tribes, of whom a considerable number
was present, Tow-ah-att spoke as follows: ‘‘My Brothers! Last spring some of
the Auk Indians attacked my friends ; and, for the first time in my life, my
face was cut. Before I learned Chnstianity, I would have avenged the shame,
and would have demanded a life for the insult, according to our customs. But
Mr. Young told us we must not pay back our enemies. So I ask you all to
consider us as your friends, and ask you to come with us. Learn about God,
and follow our teachers; and you will also live in peace in your land. Put
away drinking, and gambling, and fighting; and aftera while the Indias
will be numerous again, and like the white men in kno wledge and power.”

The interpreter, an intelligent and conscientious person, has revised the fore.
going, and pronounces it an accurate version of Tow-ah-att’s speech, but not
all of it. Only the substance of it is here transcribed—enough, however, to

A Voyage to Sitka. —ffistorical and Descriptive. Hyly

The description which I have now given you, will answer, with some unim-
portant differences for the native houses as they are found elsewhere. The night
following we were

AT FORT WRANGEL AGAIN.
The next day, July 4th, we resumed our work, making the acquaintance of
DANES §
persons who were well-informed respecting the country and the natives, and

gathering additional stores for future use..
THE ENTERTAINMENT AT TOW-AH-ATT’S.

By previous invitation, the missionaries and their guests assembled at the
house of Tow-ah-att, a tyhee or chief of the Stahkeen tribe. An exhibition of
manners and customs had been prepared for us, to show us what Indian life
had been—a state even now about terminated. We were notified to come by
the discharge of cannon, the first boom sounding the note of preparation,
the second to begin our march. On our arrival a salute was fired, and dis-

charges were kept up at intervals during the afternoon. The gun was exclu-
sively managed by natives, a noticeable circumstance.

The insignia on Tow-ah-att’s house were the eagle and wolt, marking the
union of two families. A brief address of welcome introduced the entertain-
ment. Among the customs shown to us by the dramatic representation, were a
warrior with blackened face, with spear and helmet, and with belt containing a
two-edged knife or dagger; a chief in full dress, made of skins and a robe
made of the wool of mountain sheep. Each of these presented an impos-
ing appearance.

After these, masks and effigies appeared, next a potlach dance, in which a
large number of the natives of both sexes engaged. This was followed by
dances which were used only upon notable occasions, which might be called
sacred or religious. These dances and the chants were regarded by the natives
with a species of veneration. We were struck with the comparative ex-
cellence of the singing, which accompanied these dances, displaying a consider-
able amount of culture. Evidently much practice had been bestowed upon the
art, as the large number, young and old, that engaged in them, observed the
musical rests and parts with great precision. A large number of whites and
Indians were present at this entertainment, and the house was not crowded.
Our entertainers observed some formalities, which could do no discredit to
the most enlightened assemblies. After an address of welcome, and_ short
speeches from visitors, one of the chiefs, Tow-ah-att, ‘delivered a formal dis-
course, a portion of which is here reported.

TOW-AH-ATT’S SPEECH.

**My dear brothers: My heart is very glad since you have come so far to see
usand help us. I intend, to-day, to show how jwe used to do, and what we
have given up since we learned about Jesus Christ.

In old times we Indians knew how to hunt, and fish, and how to provide
for our families, and some of us were rich. But there were many things we

16 Sketckes of an Lexcursion to Southern Alaska.

how the intellectual qualities of the speaker; but the delivery was, in a high

degree, impressive. The posture, voice, and gesture, displayed the genius of
an orator, though untrained in schools of art, and unconscious of his power.
These accessories deepened the conviction of his ability and sincerity. The
strangers listened to him with the keenest attention.

We were entertained by other speakers, who displayed an unexpected degree
of intellectual qualities. One said : ‘‘I wish to go with Christians, and stay
with them. Iam not ashamed of this, though Shustack says I have put my
name under the feet of all the Tlinkets. But my heart is not sad on account
of these things, since Goa is pleased.”

VIEWS AND EXPRESSIONS OF THE NATIVES.

From many interviews with the natives at different times and places, the
following are selected to illustrate their mental capacity and the character of
the thoughts which they entertain :

““We wish to follow the new life, and to have new laws. (Government
among the Tlinkets has grown weak and is falling in. We want the laws of
white men and their government. Nothing is safe now. We want people
protected so that bad men shall no longer abuse them, nor cheat them. The
Christian religion is so new to us, and the old ways had such a strong hold up-
on us, and we were so full of them, that we adapt ourselves but slowly to the
hew way. So strong are these customs, that it is almost impossible for an old
man among us to adopt the new. But those of us who are younger desire to
make a total change. Mr. Young exhorted us to give up our bad practices.
And now we are ready to adopt Christian customs. ”

“Our hearts were asleep. Now they are awake. You have made them so
still more by your visit tous ; and all the church goers are strengthened, and we
earnestly ask you to help us in every way to make a complete reformation of
hfe. A little of God’s Spirit is inus. You are full of the Spirit. He has
led you here ; and our prayer is that Fle may lead us into your ways.”

“The Tlinkets understand that your church is established by the United
States people ; and that you are in favor of just laws for whites and Indians,
and for this reason they come to you. They know that you will treat them
justly, and believe that you can protect them.”

“Your visit is having a great effect. Whites and Indians, said that Mr.
Young would not stay. But you come and go on with the work that Mr.
Young began ; and they believe you mean it, and there will be a great turning
to your mission. Your coming is the common talk among the Indians; and
I know what their thoughts and wishes are, for they keep busy talking about
you.”

(Juestion.—Can your people be rescued and educated without separation
from the whites ?

“Tf we can have protection it is better not to separate Indians and whites.
Foreign Indians coming to trade, see the church and schools, and that makes

Voyage to Sitka.—Historical and Descriptive. 17

them wish to have the same. All depends on getting law and justice. In-
dians are obedient. They want to learn trades. They work faithfully. They
do now carpenter work for themselves. They understand law, and respect
rights, except in war ; then they are fierce.”

“The Russians were sometimes cruel; but the United States people now
treat the Tlinkets better. When the Tlinkets heard that the yas Tyhee
(the President) had bought the Kahn, (Country) they believed him when he
sent word that they would not oppress them, but would teach them many things,
and show them how to live like white people, We thought when the soldiers
were here that the yas TZyhee was false; but now we love the Americans,
because we have got acquainted with the missionaries, and their friends.”

**When Mr. Crosby* came, we heard what he had to say about Christianity.
We did not know whether we should take it, because we were not King George’s
men. We did not like them; and we thought the United States people had
a different religion and we wanted theirs. We did not give him our full
confidence. We wanted our children to learn, however, and so we sent them
to Philip Mackay’s school. But Mr. Crosby said that you would send teachers
to carry on schools ; and when Mr. Mallory came, we knew that there were
some white men that spoke true, and we gave him our hearts. The ice melted
and the flowers began to blossom.”

Q. What did the Russians teach you about religion?”

A. The white people did not tell us the way. We were blind, and bad
white men wanted to keep us blind. Then we hated them; but now we try
to love them. Now we have learned to pray, and we know that God answers
our prayers.

Q. Do other Indians want teachers to come to them ?

A. Oh, yes: they all want them. Send teachers to make us all brethren.

Q. Are not other Indians too proud to receive them ?

A. Some of them are ashamed, because the traders laugh at them. It is
a hard struggle. They laugh at us because we are trying to do right, and for-
sake our sins But teachers and good men will help us. Send them to oth-
ers. They laugh because we love God, and will not go in our old ways. But
we like to find something to please them, and to do them good. We don’t
care now when they laugh at us. Weare sorry because they laugh at God

Q. If the chiefs, Shustack and Shaikes, continue to oppose us, what effect
will it have upon the Indians ?

A. Some of them will surely follow the Tyhees, for the Stahkeens have
always been obedient. But there are others who would not obey the chiefs
because they have learned to love God. But the chiefs’ government is not as
strong as it was. The people do not fear them as they did in former times.
The chiefs see this ; and they know the white man is the cause of it.

*Missionary at Fort Simpson, Pritish Columbia.

18 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Q. They must see that we are doing good to their people, without reward.
Why do they not favor our coming ?

A.~ Because the people give heed to the teachers without waiting for the
lead of their chiefs. This makes them angry.

I have come a long way to see the Stahkeen people, and I am anxious to see
the chiefs. Send word to them that I wish to meet them.

INTERVIEW WITH A BLANKETED NATIVE.
[An Example. ]

On Monday, the 28th, I had an interview with Unagatas, a Chilcat doctor,
.a man apparently sixty years of age. He was clad in buckskin garments,
covered with a blanket, hatless, with uncut hair. Until within ten days, he
had never Seen a white man nora steamer. I had seen him at our Sabbath
worship, and elsewhere. He was quite ready to converse. I believe he was
sincere in desiring the introduction of teachers among his people. He was
very deeply impressed with the importance of the white man’s religion. I
urged upon him asa personal interest, the great salvation, and made it very
plain.

Another attempt to penetrate the interior, failed through a defect in the ma-
chinery of the steam boat, and after a few hours absence, we floated back on
the tide to Fort Wrangel.

STAHKEEN RIVER EXCURSION.

The next effort was successful. We enlisted a party of excursionists for the
Stahkeen River tour. Of the number was Dr. and Mrs. Kendall, Rev. S. H.
Young, Dr. and Mrs. Lindsley. Mr. and Mrs. Vanderbilt. We resolved to
see Telegraph Creek, the remotest point of steamboat navigation. I was ac-
quainted with the Captain, N. H. Lane, a Portland man, also the managing
owner of the boat, who was on board, and who extended every facility to us
for explorations at different localities. For example, at the Great Glacier we
tarried over half a day and all night. I have written an account of this excur-
sion for publication, to which I beg to refer members of the Board, who have
any interest init. “As the sketch was written for popular reading, the bearings
of the trip upon our work were not made to appear. I now proceed to state
these.

One object of the trip was gained in an interview with Shustack and Shaikes,
hyas tyhees (head chiefs) and Kakeesh, Kapanake, K unk, Shadesty and Kad-
ishan, sub-chiefs, and a large number of the Stahkeen tribe. The Ayas tyhees
of the tribe were avoiding us; and therefore, I determined to seek them. I
attached great importance to winning them over to our cause, and if that

were not possible, to conciliate them, or at least neutralize their hostility.

On the 30th of July, we found them at Glenora, in British Columbia. Be-
ing introduced by Mr. Young to the superior chiefs, some of the others being
present, I told them that I had heard of them as the tyhees of the people ;
that I had read their names in the newspapers; that Mr. Young had written

* The sketch has not been published yet. :

Voyage to Alaska.— Historical and Descriptive. 19

about them to me; that I longed to see them, to tell them how they and their
people would be saved from destruction, which was sure to follow them if they
continued in their old ways. I had often thought of them, and_ prayed for
hem, and had now come to tell them how they and their children and chil-
dren’s children could remain in the places where they now lived. I told them
that Dr. Kendall, who was on the steamboat, had come all the way from New
York to see them, and that we wanted to have a conference that evening. I
exhorted them to think of what I had said, and to let us know in the evening
what they thought of it, and what they would do.

Shaikes expressed great satisfaction on hearing what I had said. He had
often thought about the things I had spoken of, and would be very glad to
meet us in the evening. Shustack thanked me for coming to see him, and
wished to join the proposed conference.

Mr. Young procured the Cosmopolitan Hotel, the largest building in the

place—a log house, two stories high. A large number of Indians, some of
whom belonged to other tribes, were present at the conference. The chiefs
occupied elevated seats. The interpreters were Mr. Young and Kadishan, as-
sisted by W. J. Stephens, owner of the boat. A number of whites were pres-

ent, also.

I felt the great gravity of the occasion. Here were the head chiefs of the
Stahkeen tribe, whose influence was considerable among all the tribes of
Tlinkets occupying the country from the boundaries of British Columbia to
Cross Sound. It was reported that Shaikes was vacillating in opinion about
us; but he was so much under Shustack’s control, although equal to him in
authority, that he was throwing his influence on the same side. Shustack had

opposed our missions and schools, and sustained the old order of things.

The conference began with a short mate by Dr. Kendall, in which he
stated that he had come a long way to see the Stahkeen people; and that we
were doing a great deal for their welfare, and intended to do more ; but that
he wanted to know what they thought about it; that he would like to hear
what they had to say.

It was intimated that I was expected to address them before they replied.
I accordingly spoke, saying in substance :

I remind you of what I said in Mr. Lovell’s store. We have sent teachers
to you, and are building a church and school-house for you. Perhaps you
think it strange that we should take so much interest in you ; and it is possible
that you may suspect us of some wrong design. Put that entirely out of your
minds, for we have only the best motive in doing this for your people. We
assure you that we do this because we are your friends, and want to save you.
I have often thought of you since Mr. Seward bought Alaska ; and prayed
that I might do you good ; and we have now come to tell you what you must
do to be saved. A great many Indians once lived in the United States coun-
try ; but many grew worse and worse, and died off by following war, and

20 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

other bad practices, They learned some bad ways from white people, I am

sorry to say, and that destroyed them sooner. But there are tribes of those

Indians who live like white people. They have farms and dwellings, work-
shops, schools and churches, and plenty of everything to make them comfort-

able. You can have the same; but you must learn to live like christians.

For this purpose we sent teachers to you; and nothing can save you but the

Gospel of Jesus Christ, which they have brought you. We wish to help you

to walk in God’s ways ; and you must help us by coming to our meetings and

schools, and by giving your influence for the improvement and salvation of

your people. Alaska belongs to you, and white people have no right to crowd

you out of it. But they will surely do it, if you continue to follow your old

ways. Feeling this deeply, we come to you now before many white people

come, that you may learn the things which make them strong, and which only
can make you and them happy. Again [assure you that this is our only reason

for undertaking what we are doing for you; and you must trust us till we prove

this to you. You cannot understand our motive, as we understand ‘it. No

man, indeed, can put a price upon the good we offer you. May God help

you to decide wisely.

Brother Young added remarks in Chinook, explaining Dr. Kendall’s con-
nection with the Board. They had long before understood my relation to
them. I felt most desirous to have a good word from Shustack. He is a
Man of patriarchal dignity; and by reason of age, his authority is greater

than that of Shaikes. He spoke with the tone and gesture of a man who
was accustomed to be obeyed

and with oratorical skill.
SHUSTACK’S REPLY.

He began: “‘I want first to thank you for what you have said. You have
come a long way to see us; and we believe what you say. When Mr. Young
came I was not pleased, because he would not do what I wanted him to. I
wished him not to turn my people away from their old customs. And I op-
posed him for interfering with us. I wanted my people to learn new ways to
make them strong, and to keep the old dances and ceremonies, because we
and Indians of other tribes have always practiced them. White people have
their ways—so have Tlinkets; and it is not seemly for Indians to give up
their practices and adopt other people’s.

sep

dut you tell us that we must change some things, and I begin to believe
it. I want my people to be prosperous and happy; and I shall consider what
you have said. You will teach the children many things, and I shall not op-
pose it. Mr. Young means todo us good, and I shall not stand in his way
any longer. But I want to observe the ancient rites and customs. We want

our children and their children to stay in this land, as long as tide flows an
sun shines.

This speech was very gratifying. Its concessions were not expected. A
brighter light dawned upon our cause. And I thanked God for the exertion
of his power upon that man’s heart.

Voyage to Alaska.—FHistorical and Descriptive. 21

SPEECH OF SHAIKES.
Shaikes said the following in substance : ‘Iam very glad tosee you. Tcame
a great way to-day in my canoe; but when I saw you on the steamer, (Kad-
ishan signaled him as the steamer passed him a few hours before) I did not
stop at my house, because I was anxious to see you. So I came here.

Mr. Young told us many new things; but we had been often deceived by
white men, and we did not know whether he spoke the truth. But now we
see you, and hear what you have to say, aad we can doubt no longer. You
have said that you will help us to be wise and strong; and we are beginning
to feel that we need your help. T can help you, and will doit. But now we
want you to tell us what we should do, and we shall not be ashamed to do it.
What I say now, I intend to do. I will not say one thing to-day, and anoth-
er to-morrow.” (No doubt alluding, as Mr. Young says, to his previous vacil-
lating course. )

SHADESTY.

He used their formula: ‘‘I am happy to see you here, very happy. Shaikes
is hereditary chief; his word is law. What he tells us, we shall do. We had
heard something about the white man’s God, and Mr. Young told us more
about Him. We did not know what to believe. Now we see you here, who
have come so far, and we must believe what Mr. Young has told us.” He
said more to the same effect.

SPEECH OF KAKEESH KAPANAKE.

“We heard that you were coming some time ago. I saw you at Sitka. I
was on the wharf when you came off the steamer there, and I was told who
you were. Then I came to Fort Wrangel, a distance of one hundred and
seventy miles, in my canoe; after that, up the river to this place, one hundred
and sixty miles further ; and everywhere told the Tlinkets that you were com-
ing. And now I am very glad to meet you and hear what you said. It makes
my heart leap toward you all. Tlinkets were very ignorant, but God blessed
white men and put it into your hearts to send tidings about his Son to us.”

KOUNK’S SPEECH.

‘* Kakeesh spoke true. We were all very ignorant, but we heard of God,
‘and had prayed to him for teachers. We believed something about God.
Dr. Lindsley sent teachers (meaning’Mr. Mallory and Mrs McFarland, as I
was told.) Now God has sent us teachers.****Indians were beginning to
see that God is strong, and that His friends are strong. We wish to know
your ways and walk in them.”

Before the conference adjourned, Shaikes expressed the wish that more of

his people could have met us., and heard what we had said,
REVIEW OF THE CONFERENCE.

The next day, July 31, on the way to Telegraph Creek, we repeatedly heard
the remark that the Conference of the night before was of very great significance.
All parties on the boat expressed surprise, not only at the concessions made by

cs) Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

the chiefs, but also at the ameliorating influence which was diffused through
the assembly. Nothing resembling it, but quite the}opposite, had been observed
by the miners and traders. They ceuld not account for it: but we ascribe it
to the truth of the gospel sincerely spoken, and made convincing by the Spirit
of God. We do not attach to these transactions the importance which we
would if these poor people were civilized, rich and powerful: but regarding
them in their ignorance and degradation, we are moved by a keen sense of
their exposure. Any voluntary act of theirs which smoothes the way to their
elevation, we cannot fail to appreciate ; and their confidence in us is a first
step towards it. This explanation is due, to guard our views and expressions
against misconstruction.

At Glenora I found the home of a former member of my church, Mrs. Lov-
ell, who was absent. Her husband J. B. Lovell is both merchant and magis-
trate, to whom we were indebted for hospitable attentions.

We spent five days en this excursion. The entire landscape from Fort
Wrangel to Telegraph Creek, the head of steamboat navigation, provides
studies in Geology, one department of which—the glacial—is complete. The
student will find every chapter spread out and illustrated. The theme is very
attractive, but the length of my report forbids enlarging upon it. I refer you
to the sketch of it, already mentioned, and hasten back to Wrangel, to de-
scribe the greatest event which had ever taken place in Alaska.

THE ORGANIZATION OF THE VISIBLE CHURCH.

On Saturday, the 2nd of August, the public examination of candidates took
place. We had previously examined and ccnversed with all who were to ap-
pear, and had advised some to wait. Prayer meetings had been held, and,
in short, much preparation for the signal event had already been made. We
felt, therefore, that the public examination was only one step ina series. We
desired, however, to encourage the intelligent expression of views and expe-
rience. My own observations among the Nez Perce and Puyallup converts.
led me to expect some unusually satisfactory expressions, and I was not disap-
pointed. The testimonies to God’s grace, the evidence of a great change, the
wonderful impulse given to these uninstructed minds, in the reflective turns
that were taken, and the descriptions of their new state contrasted with the
old, bringing out lines of thought unprompted by us, unpremeditated by them,
all bore witness to their spiritual understanding of the truth, and showed that
they had begun to experience its blessings, and live according to its precepts.
None of our proceedings were conducted in haste ; Mr. Young was acquainted
with every case. Indeed, two years’ work was now being concentrated.
Some of these replies would be interesting to you, and I would transcribe them
jf space permitted.

Our interpreter, Mrs. Sarah Dickinson, rendered invaluable service. Being
herself a christian of long experience, she understood the spirit and purport

of many a question which an unconverted person could not,

Voyage to Alaska.—FHistorical and Descriptive. 23

These hours were very precious. The interest deepened. Emotion arose
and overflowed, as these men and women, so recently lost in heathenism, gave
in their testimony to the love of God, and to the presence of His Spirit in
their hearts. A rapid developement of christian character was very notice-
able, being aided doubtless, by the time given for preparation, and the fre-
quent interviews with the candidates. I took pains to explain to them all, the
nature of the church and its ordinances, change of heart, profession of religion,
and the obligation of the christian life. I was careful to ascertain first that
the interpreter herself, understood me in all these vital questions. Brother

_ Young, who was disabled by accident from active service, assisted me by his
counsels, without which no sound progress could have been made, and the en-
tire transaction moved on with the utmost harmony to the consummation ; and
the tranquillity which was the very peace of God, pervaded it all.

When the bright morning came, the most distinguished Sabbath in the an-
nals of Alaska, the public services began with a prayer meeting, after which Dr.
Kendall preached. Brother Young, though scarcely able to stand, performed
the rite of baptism ; and your commissioner had the honor to execute the task
of organizing the Church of God.

HISTORICAL STATEMENT FROM THE CHURCH RECORDS.

I began by reading a brief account of preliminaries. As it contains a few
items of veritable history, I transcribe it from the minutes of the new church
wherein these words are recorded :

Fort Wrangel, Alaska, Aug. 3rd, 1879.

The need of christian effort was felt by a few christian people, who lived in
this Territory or visited it, and my own sympathies were moved by the infor-
mation which I obtained from them and other sources.

After various delays, I had the inexpressible satisfaction of taking charge
of this mission through the agency of two members of my church at Portland,
Mr. J. C. Mallory and Mrs. A. R. McFarland. + This charge was afterwards
assumed by the Board of Home Missions, which also sent hither the Rey. -S_
H. Young, who arrived in August, 1878, and immediately entered upon hi,
duties here.

The services of these faithful missionaries and teachers have been crowned
with God’s blessing. Nor should we forget the departed. John C. Mallory
and Philip Mackay should be forever sanctified in the hearts of those who knew
them here, for their prayers and efforts and faithfulness, They deserve this
tribute. Let their names be kept in affectionate remembrance by this church.

Two firm friends of Alaska who are strenuously supporting its claims to
the attention of the American people, Rev. Henry Kendall, D. D., one of
the Corresponding Secretaries of the Board of Home Misssions, under whose
fostering care this mission church and school are carried on, and future missions
in Alaska will be conducted; and Rev. Sheldon Jackson, D. D., Synodical
Missioaary of the Synod of Colorado, are present and have assisted by their
counsels on this occasion, and participate in the services of this memorable
day.

Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Ne
BSS

At the last meeting of the Presbytery of Oregon, to whose jurisdiction
Alaska belongs, I was appointed to visit Alaska to examine the missionary work
and to organize a church at this place if the way were prepared.

I am thankful to the Head of the Church for the degree of success which
has attended faithful christian labor here.

MEMBERS,

The names of those who were to constitute the new church were then an-
nounced. Four were received from other churches, one white man and eigh-

teen natives on profession. A few days after, several more were added.

You-can judge of my interest in the group that surrounded me, when I state
that all the whites except Miss Dunbar stand in a near relation to me. Mrs.
Young, the wife of the missionary and daughter of Rev. Lewis Kellogg, a
venerable minister of Our church, being my neice; Mrs. McFarland and Mrs.
Vanderbilt, members of my church; one of the white men who joined on pro-
fession, a former member of my congregation; and the other, the carpenter
whom I had employed and sent thither.

The organization by formal yote adopted the name of the Presbyterian
Church of Fort Wrangel, Alaska; and placed itself under the care of the
Presbytery of Oregon,

When we stood in a circle and with hand joined to hand entered into the sa.

cred vows and engagements of the visible church of God, the scene was very
solemn and affecting.

Among those who joined were three chiefs and two counsellors of chiefs,
three of whom spoke at the Glenora conference.

In the afternoon the ordinance of thc Lord’s Supper was administered by
Dr. Kendall to the new church and to invited guests. The Rev. W. H. R.
Corlies, M. D., and his wife partook with us. They are independent Baptists.

The organization was completed, with the exception of the eldership, on
the Wednesday following by the election of the Board of Trustees, and of
Rev. S. H. Young as pastor.

“The darkness is passed and the true light now shineth.” May it shine
forever with increasing brightness, and its rays penetrate the surrounding gloom
and kindle the watch fires of salvation along this Coast and throughout this
Territory.

INTERVIEWS WITH NATIVES.

Monpay, August 4, 1880.

I had an interview with the Chief of the Awk tribe—a branch of the Tlinket
family. This man was at our services yesterday. He desires for his people
what we are doing for the Stahkeens.

While this was going on the young chief Shaikes entered, and the room,
was soon filled with natives. Asa conference was evidently pending, I sent
for Drs. Kendall and Jackson. The chief said :— .

Geographical.— Climatic.— Population. 25

“Since I heard’ what you said at Glenora, I have felt differently. I have
made up my mind to learn more about God.

Last winter my brother died, and I wanted to die also. I tried to save my
brother, but God took away his breath. I was angry, I cherished hard feel-
ings against Him. But now my heart is tender. I do not reproach Him.

I have long wanted to see how white people lived—how they made steam-
boats and newspapers. But I never thought I could till Dr. Lindsley invited
me to visit Portland. This makes my heart full.

Your people are prosperous and strong. I want my people to be the same.
Your hyas tyhee [the President of the U. S.] is ours. Why does he so long
neglect us? We want justice. I will always support the magistrate and the
law.

Many Indians gather here from all points. They see what you are doing
and want the same. I want you to give me a strong paper anthorizing me to
act for you. It will help me to keep down wrong practices and protect the
people. I will see the sick and the poor cared for. We want laws to punish
crimes and to keep down evil.

Dr. Lindsley’s words were so kind and strong I shall do ashe says. It
made me very happy. After this, the names of the Stahkeens will be written
as your friends. This will be our distinction. I come to you as to friends.”

After remarks by Drs. Jackson, Kendall and Lindsley, and a prayer in Chi-
nook by Mr. Young, the interview closed.

At Glenora I was convinced of the great desirability of giving some of
these men the opportunity to come in contact with civilized life; I accordingly
invited Shaikes and Kadishan to visit Portland and spend a month there as
my guests. To this invitation, Shaikes refers in the foregoing speech.

During this week the natives provided two entertainments for us—very
unique and interesting—at which speeches were also made, both by the na-
tives and visitors.

At the last, provided by Shaikes, there were seventy or eighty whites and
more than two hundred and fifty Indians. Of all my interviews I have full
notes in my possession, but have no time to collate them for these pages. I
must particularize two other interviews, which I had this week, as giving an
insight into character.

Shaikes and Kadishan with a few of their tilicums called—the object being
to be reassured of my sincerity in inviting them to visit me at Portland. Up-
on cordially repeating it their delight was unbounded. No doubt now of my
love for them since I would do this. Dr. Lindsley had their yas delate tum-
tums—their warmest gratitude. They would give him every thing and do ey.
ery thing he wanted. This state of feeling was at once turned to account to
further the objects of my visit. To enlighten and guide, the leaders of the

_ people, are aims of the highest character. Brother Young rejoiced in the
moral power gained. He said ‘‘Hyas closh wawa”. This is the best inter-

view. Other conferences were confirmatory of our influence: this is the
climax,

26 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

, | WAWA WITH KAKEE,

Head Chief of Lower Chilkat town, 200 miles distant, who entered with
six of his retainers. All fine looking, some blanketed, and some, like Kakee,
wearing ‘‘civilized” dress. They called, on my invitation. I told them of
our efforts to see them in their country, and that I much desired to get ac-
quainted with them at their homes. I wanted to know their minds about our
teachers and schools. I rehearsed the condition of Indians in the United
States, and how we wanted to save all the Tlinket people. Mr. Young spoke
to the same effect. The men gave the keenest attention, and evidently under.
stood some of the main bearings of the question which we were pressing home
upon them. When Kakee replied they watched him closely. He said: We
are all very anxious to have you come up the river. Chilcats don’t know’ any-
thing, but we want to learn. Allhave the same mind. We want to be taught
like our brothers the Stahkeens. We want churches and schools. We looked
for your coming.

I said: We want to send teachers as soon as we can—not many moons
before they will come to you, we hope. We expect you to wait for them.
Mr. Young will tell you when they come.

Kakee.—We very much wish a missionary and teacher. On no account
will we turn away our hearts from them. Formerly we thought white men
were all bad; now we know some are not. I trust your promise to send teach-
ers. I believe the teacher will come as sure as if I saw your canoe at my vil-
lage. |

As the interview continued, my interest was almost painful. The Chilcats
are the most numerous of the Tlinket tribes, and would be the most powerful
if they were located as favorably as the Stahkeens. They have hitherto kept
out foreigners. No man has ever surveyed the interior of their country, un-
less it has been done clandestinely. Iam therefore very anxious that they
should open unto us. And now God is showing us the way through the Fort
Wrangel mission.

ADJUSTMENTS—AUGUST II.

I was engaged ona readjustment of some parts of the plan for the Home
buildings. Astatement of accounts and of expenditures on the church and the
Home buildings, respectively, had been made out at my request, and it was as
certained that I had become responsible for more than seventeen hundred dol-
lars on materials ordered from Portland and on freights, all at reduced rates.
This statement was laid before all the parties concerned and assented to.

WAWA FINAL—-AUGUST I2.

There were present Mr. Young, Dr. Kendall, Dr. Lindsley and Mr. Cor-
lies, together with Kadishan, Moses, Aaron, Mathew, Lot and others, all
members of the church. The conference discussed the importauce of having-
What we would cali a superintendent of Indian affairs, for Alaska. The Indi-
ans spoke with unexpected intelligence and marks of reflection. They especi-
ally urge] some forms of law and magistrates, They gave illustrations of abil-

Geographical.—Climatic..— Population. 27 /

ity to consider a subject in its various relations; and, as I listened to them, I
could not fail to observe two different things: the bringing out of different
points in tle different minds, yet all showing the bearings upon the main thing,
and the power of expressing their thoughts.

Our visit was pronounced by them to be decisive. The building of the
church fixes the Tlinket mind upon us. I was anxious on all occasions to have
them commit themselves tous. I drew out this in several instances, with
pledges of their support and obedience. Their piety was displayed in the
most unexceptional expressions, unprompted by us. I said to them, among
other things: In my report I shall take notice of what you have said. You
must pray God to send you wise and just men for rulers and magistrates. You
know we want to send teachers to the other tribes. We will do it as soon a®
we can. In this way we hope to reach and bless all the Tlinket people. There
will be a number of churches and schools, but one great brotherhood united in
the love of our Saviour. We want the Tlinket people to stick together, and
to be faithful to us [lively expressions of assent].

By request, parting words were said in prayer by Dr. Lindsley, and trans-
lated by Mrs. Dickinson, and followed by the benediction form Dr. Kendall-

During the interview the feeling of interest and the glow of christian sym-
pathy deepened. But I will not attempt to describe it.

In drawing the descriptive and historical part of my Report to a close, I re-
mark that many items of decided interest have been omitted. Indeed, some-
times it was difficult to determine which of several items should be chosen to
serve as illustrations. Ihave been careful to avoid distortion and exaggeration.

I addressed circulars containing leading questions on the Civilization of
Alaska to men of every class, who were qualified to answer intelligently.
These answers will form the basis of a Report and Petition to the Government,
which were partly prepared before I left Alaska, by Mr Young and the under-
signed, to which was appended influential signatures.

Aug. 13, at 1.30 P. M., we bade adieu to hosts of friends, and began our re-
turn voyage.

With earnest desires for the speedy enlightenment of all parts of our Coun-

‘try, I remain

Your friend and servant,

A. L. LINDSLEY.

REPORT NO. IJ,

Geographical. —Climatic.—Population.

I take pleasure in acknowledging my indebtedness, for favors extended
throughout. my voyages and visits, to gentlemen in Oregon, Washington Terri-

28 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

sory, Alaska and British Columbia, for letters and suggestions which I found
to be, in many instances, of great value to the cause. I was everywhere hos-
pitably received, and in not a few cases recognized by former acquaintances,
My connection with the Alaska Missions, which has been generally understood
from the first, gave me immediate access to the persons whom I most desired
to see. I take equal pleasure in being able to say that I found present and
former members of my church and congregation at various points along the
route, and even to the remotest. The meeting of persons whom I had lost
sight of was a frequent surprise to me, as well as a gratification. Such exten-
sive recognition helps our cause,

SURVEY—PROSPECTS AND LOCALITIES.

My plan for missionary operations, for the present, embraces the entire
Tlinket people of eleven tribes, aud the Hydahs,. This was my original idea
of the work; and all my observations since, confirm its expediency. This ex-
plains my aim in uniting the Tlinkets of every tribe upon us; and in getting
their undivided support of our measures.

The various divisions of the field came under my frequent inspection and re-
view, in conference with the Rev. S. H. Young, who had spent a year in the
Territory, and with whom I was in daily intercourse.

GEOGRAPHICAL CONTOUR,

I invite you, first of all, to inspect a map of Alaska, cast on Mercator’s Pro-
jection. It is impossible to receive a correct impression, either of the outline
or the trend of the coast, by consulting maps cast on the globular plan.

Now you observe that the coast curves westward with northern inclinations»
from the mouth of Portland Channel at 54° 40‘ uorth latitude, to Prince Wil-
liam Sound, which is the summit of a very obtuse cone; proceeding westward
still with sow¢hern inclinations, to the extremity of the great promontory called
the Peninsula of Alaska; then the Aleutian Islands following the trend. far
away toward the continent of Asia.

DISTANCES.

Taking 54° 40' as the base line, we follow it across the trackless waters
through 35° of longitude to Ounimak, an island separated by a narrow channel
from the mainland, a distance of one thousand four hundred miles. Dropping
a line from the entrance of Prince William Sound to 54° 40’, it measures three
hundred and fifty miles.

The distance between a few prominent points: from the boundary line to
Fort Wrangel, one hundred thirty to one hundred forty miles, as the naviga-
tion goes; from Fort Wrangel to Sitka, on a similar course, one hundred sixty
miles; from Sitka to Kodiak, seven hundred; from Kodiak to Ounimak, four
hundred fifty. The distance to Ounalaska, the nearest and largest of the Aleu-
tian Islands, from Kodiak, is six hundred.

‘

Geographical.— Climatic.-—Fopulation. 29

CLIMATE—JAPAN CURRENT.

With considerable regularity the trend of the coast describes a vast circular
arch or curve. The peculiar confizuration; of the mainland coast, is made
the more remarkable from the fact that the ocean waves beat against the bar-
tier of lofty mountains, on the inland sides of which, almost perpetual winter
reigns, and on the seaward side, the verdure of perpetual spring. This de-
scription, like many others in this connection, is intended to be understood in
general terms. There are numerous exceptions ; but they are very limited in
extent. On island and mainland a few lofty peaks are always in view, rising
above the mountain horizon, whose summits are covered with snow. All the
islands, even the largest, share in the seaward characteristics.

The simple explanation of this vast diversity in the climate is in the ocean
current, ever flowing deep and irresistible. Starting from the equator on the
Asiatic side, and rushing onward, it branches at the Islands of Japan, from which
it obtains its name. One branch, proceeding eastward, beats upon the shores
‘of the vast concave; and it seems to pause béfore the rocky barrier curved
around it, until its resistless forces overcome the obstructions and it rolls north-
ward and loses its identity in the chill embrace of the North Pacific Sea. In
the great concave this current distributes itself among the innumerable islands
until it strikes against the mountainous mainland coast.

The two large inlets are Prince William Sound and Cook’s Inlet, alcng the
coasts of which, the same climatic influences prevail. The islands along this
coast are estimated to exceed ten thousand in number. Most of these lie be-
tween 54 40’ and Lynn Canal, the northen extremity of this wonderful inland
navigation, about one hundred fifty miles north of Sitka, and into which the
the river Chilcat flows, and west of which is Mount Fairweather.

POPULATION.

It is said that there are four distinct races of Aborigines in Alaska; the Es-
kimo, ranging north of the great curve described in this paper, and extend-
ing to the Arctic, differing scarcely any from the people of the same race on
the opposite side of the continent; the Aleutes, occupying the peninsula and
the Aleutian Islands; the Kenaians, occupying the coast between Cook’s In-
let and Prince William Sound, and thence extending over the interior eastward
under the name of the Tinnehs; and finally the Tlinkets, who shall chiefly
engage our attention in the remainder of this report, who are found upon the
residue of the coast and islands of the great bend to 54° go’. I think that these
divisions will be found in some respects arbitrary; and that the third, and
probab'y the second, will undergo a rearrangement.

I incline to the belief that a large extent of the coast stretching along under
the shadow of the St. Elias Alps to the Atnai or Copper River, is unithabited
except by detached bands of the Tinneh people, under the name of Ugalenzes
and Yukatats.

The Tlinkets are divided into a number of tribes. The most important of
these, are the Chilcat, Tahkoo, Awk, Kake, Hoochenoo, Sitka, Hoonya,

30 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

Stahkeen, Hanega and Tongass. The Hydahs are confined to the Prince of
Wales’ Archipelago, whither they came from British Columbia.

I had interviews, long and short, with members of almost all these tribes:
I aimed to get at their real feelings, and believe that I succeeded. Withou
a single exception, the desire was expressed for teachers and missionaries. In
the overture of the Synod of the Columbia to the General Assembly, 1877,
the belief was expressed that the spirit of God had ina remarkable manner
inclined the hearts of these people to inquire after Him. No man could
have stood where I did this summer, without being impressed with the same
thought. My report No, I, gives many evidences to the same purport.
The same impression has been made upon persons who belong to civil and
military life. I have therefore traced out an almost universal concurrence in
this particular.

I have examined all estimates of numbers within my reach—some printed,
others made by persons on the ground, interpreters and traders. The greatest
diversity exists. The highest estimate was that which the Russians reported to
Gen. Hallock, namely, sixty thousand for all Alaska, twenty-five thousand be-
ing Tlinkets. No such numbers can now be found there, nor did they exist
when our nation took possession of Alaska. I take an average number, and
place the whole Tlinket population, including Hydahs, at ten thousand.

If this population were scattered along the coast, their civilization would be
impossible. But providentially they are gathered in patriarchal or tribal groups
in localities, some of which have been fixed from time immemorial. The na-
tives are social, affectionate and attached to their homes. These propensities
draw them into cireumstances very favorable to their enlightenment. ,

DESIGNATION OF LOCALITIES.

We now proceed to designate the most desirable points for beginning opera-
tions, with this predominant end in view. ‘This has occasioned a great deal of
investigation. Two points have already been determined, Sitka and Wrangel ;
another should be among the Chilcats; and a fourth, among the Hydahs on
Prince of Wales’ Island, probably Cordova Bay; the fifth, is less easily select-
ed. Tongass River near 54° 40’, Hoochenoo Island in Chatham Straits east of
Sitka, ana Takoo River; each has claims and advantages. But the Hoonyas,
in numbers and natural advantages, have superior claims.

The difficulty of settling upon points for new missions explains my great de-
sire to visit the different localities. But I was able to arrive at conclusions .
which I cannot doubt will be soon verified. The missions among the Chilcats
and Hydahs, should be founded as soon as possible. A great advance will
thus be made along the whole line.

Again turn to the map. Observe the points indicated—Lynn Canal, Sitka,
Wrangel and Prince of Wales Island. I incline to place the fifth mission in
he Hoonya town on Tchichagoff island, or between Wrangel and Lynn Canal.
In this case, Takoo River and Admiralty Island should be inspected before i

4

Geographical.— Climatic.— Population. ae

is located. With these five or six missions we would gather around us or bring
under our influence the entire Tlinket people; and we would train in our mis-
sions the future teachers of Alaska.

I now proceed to explain some of the reasons for confining our work, for
the present, to the Tlinket people. JI am the more desirous to set these rea-
sons forth at some length in consequence of some wild and unsupported state-
ments concerning the Alaska tribes, which have gained currency in our church,
and which if allowed to pass without question might lead the Board to ill-ad-
vised measures. Dr. Kendall will remember the long conferences which I had
with him on the steamer Cassiar in the Stahkeen River, in which I explained
my reasons for opposing the establishment of any missions at the present time
as far west as Kodiak, and for limiting our mission work to these people. I
shall not be able to expand my report to the dimensions of my argument on
that occasion; but there are incontrovertible data, which understood and adopt-
ed as the basis of action, will save the Board from the humiliation of failure.

ADVANTAGES OF CONCENTRATION.

Our work being confined to the Tlinkets and Hydahs will be in a measure
concentrated ; and therefore will have the greater promise of effectiveness. We
reach various tribes having the same language, customs and traditions, and
moved therefore by common impulses, inspired by faith in a common destiny
yet to be awakened by us. We seize the helm of Alaska’s moral power. The
Tlinkets and Hydahs occupy the ground nearest to civilization. The more
northern Alaskans, as they see the light shining in from the south, will be at-
tracted by it. The Tlinkets and Hydahs, inspired with the missionary spirit
under our training, will become the leaders and the teachers of the other Alas-
ka races. The Tlinkets are less scattered than the other races. Indeed, mis-
sions to any other tribes would be very expensive, and difficult to maintain a,
the present time.

Beyond Cross Sound to Copper River, the apex of the great arch, there are
scattered families or groups whom natives teachers should reach. We could
not employ any “‘white” missionary among them, excepting as an itineran
coasting the entire region for hundreds of miles.

SURVEYS WEST OF CROSS SOUND.

‘I was unable to obtain satisfactory information about the Yukatats and Uga-
lenzes, further west and extending to Copper River. Indeed, it is quite likely
that a tour of exploration made by a competent man, will be indispensable to
arrive at any satisfactory degree ot accuracy about the inhabitants of the coast
from Cross Sound to Prince William Sound, and Cook’s Inlet.

THE KENAIANS.

On Prince William Sound we encounter the Kenaians or Koniagas occupy-
ing the peninsula of Kenai lying between Prince William Sound and Cook’s
Inlet, and also the Island of Kodiak. These people, especially those on the
island, are and have been for many years adherents of the Russo-Greek church.

32 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

The children born on the island are baptized; and there are churches, priests,
schools and teachers. hither the two Mennonite brethren went, after trying
Sitka for a little while, and f could gain no tidings of them. Westward of
Sitka, there is no mail communication, no line of ships or other vessels; in .
short, no regular communication excepting the annual voyage of a revenue cutter.
Very few ships ever navigate Alaskan waters. These facts illustrate some of
the difficulties of any missionary efforts beyond the region occupied by the
Tlinkets.

THE ALEUTES.

Following the great bend westward, we have on the right, the great penin-
sula, and beyond it the Aleutian Islands. On the way, lying under the shad-
ow of the peninsula, is the Island of Ounga, described to me by traders who
have lived there, as a very delightful spot, having cultivated fields and gardens,
the hyas tyhee himself being a priest of the Russo-Greek church, the children
trained in schools, and the entire community well ordered and prosperous.

The people who occupy the Aleutian Islands, called the Aleutes, are the
same as the few scattered inhabitants found on the great peninsula. A few on-
ly of these islands are inhabited, many of them are barren rocks, some sub-
merged at high tide. Probably in some distant geologic age these were a con-
tinuation of the great peninsula running like a bridge far away toward Asia,
now detached like dilapidated abutments.

The Aleutes, insular and continental, were numbered by the highest Russian
estimate at ten thousand, by the lowest, four thousand. They also are adhe-
rents of the Greek church. Please inspect the map again. The Aleutes scat-
tered along the northern shore of the great peninsula do not pass Bristo] Bay
on the north. You perceive then that the country occupied by them is well
defined: but how difficult to concentrate these people upon any given point !
Take a survey from Bristol] Bay to Kotzebue Sound, looking eastward. It is
reported that along this great extent of coast there are detachments of the
Koniagas, or Kenaians, already mentioned.

The great valley of the river Yukon, is the most striking geographical fea-
‘ture of this vast region—almost a ¢erra tncognita. I find it impossible to fix
upon a single point for the introduction of missions. The Greek church has
been established, as in other parts of the late Russian America, for a long time
among the people of this region, and churches and priests are found there.
The priests are for the most part natives, ignorant and unworthy.

ESQUIMEAUX AND TINNEH. |

From the neighborhood of Kotzebue Sound eastward along the coast of the
Arctic Ocean and southward toward the valley of the Yukon River, Eskimo
types prevail among the scattered population. Then a variety called Tinneh
prevails down to the great coast line which we have been considering.

GEOGRAPHICAL AREA.

It is difficult to realize the vast extent of the country under our survey.
Roughly estimated, the continent measures across more than four thousand

Geographical.— Climatic.— Population. 33

miles from east to west. That part of this immense inierior region belonging
to Alasna, is called by one of the very few who have attempted to explore it,
“the great lone land.” It is uninhabited except by a few thousand Eskimos
and Tinnehs, the highest Russian estimate being twenty thousand. But al}
subsequent information leads directly to the conclusion that this estimate great-

ly exceeds the reality.

A Roman Catholic Bishop went far up the river Yukon, with a view to in_
troduce missions, and returned discouraged. It is reported that he did make
the attempt at one point only; but of this I have no trustworthy information.
With the Russo-Greek church rests the responsibility of caring for these souls,
Let us not disturb it, or attempt to share it at present. With our limited re-
sources qf men and treasure, we are under obligation to use them to better
purpose than to expend them upon any portion of the human family so low in
the scale of intelligence, so little likely to become influential and so difficult of
access. If we had a surplus of money and men, we would find more imfor-
tant fields along the lines of our present enterprises and among the dominating
races. Furthermore, it is impossible for us under the ordinary method of con-
ducting our mission work to reach these people.

This gives you a glimpse of my reasons for discouraging any effort of ours
in these distant regions. At present it is inexpedient for us to attempt any
missionary enterprises there.

CHARACTER OF THE TLINKETS.

Let us return to the Tlinket people. Their accessibility and their universal]
disposition to learn, are great advantages. They possess elements of charac-
ter which will make them the most useful and influential christians in Alaska.
In som2 respects they equal the average civilized races. Physically the Tlink-
ets are a suverior race. The women are modest, fair and good looking. Their
dwellings are very large, durable, and could be easily transformed into forts.
Their mechanical skill enables them with few tools to execute a variety of the
plainer arts, which bear the test of criticism. They are not easily surpassed
in trade, and in the knowledge of goods. They conduct their bargainings
with great decorum. Bancroft says, that there are few uncivilized nations in
which the female sex has greater influence and commands greater respect.
One cause is that they are comparatively modest and chaste. Both old me,

and old women are respected.
‘

Langsdorff says that, ‘*It is certain that industry, reserve, modesty and con-
jugal fidelity, are the general characteristics of the female sex among these
people.” To sum up the character of the Tlinkets, they may be called brave,
shrewd, intelligent, industrious, lovers of art and music, respectful to women
and the aged, fond of sports and gambling, in superstition unmerciful and cred _
ulous, in war cruel and treacherous, yet placable; and in short, they possess
many of the virtues and some of the vices of all heathen races. [Bancroft’s
Summary, Capt. Beardslee’s Letters, Hon. J. G. Swan’s Reports, U. S. Mili-
tary Reports, Major Wm. G. Morris’ Report, Rev. S. H. Young.]

34 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

In my plea for Government aid, I shall.sketch with more detail than is
found in this paper, the status of the Tlinkets among the uneducated races, and
the great encouragement which their condition gives to labor for their elevation»
and to qualify them for future citizenship in Alaska.

In my next I shall proceed to give you'a sketch of the work at Wrangel,
as you have requested me to look into its departments of both Church and
School; with considerations touching the management of missions to be intro-

duced in other places.

A. L. LINDSLEY-
Portland, Oregon., Sept. 1879.

REPORT —No. III.
Plans for Improving the Natives.

EXPLANATORY NOTE.

\

The following report was prepared as a supplement to the two foregoing. It was addressed
to the Board of Home Missions, and at the same time incorporated with the annual report of
the Executive Committee of the Synod of the Columbia for 1879. Some degree of repeti-
tion was requisite, as the essential facts were the same. But these facts are in this report ex-
plained more fully, or represented in a new light. The field was fruitful, and a constant
restriction was enforced to bring the whole within the limits imposed by the circumstances.
Vhis remark holds good in relation to all these Sketches. In preparing this for the press, the
repetitions have beenjavoided as much as possible. A few have been retained in order to pre-
serve perspicuity in the narrative, which the intelligent reader will sanction.

OUR ALASKA WORK.

Alaska has been spoken of as ‘‘outlying territory,” as ‘‘common ground.”
Such a view sets at naught the ordinary precedent governing such cases, which
assigns detached territory to the care of the nearest jurisdiction. There is no
ground either in precedent or in law for treating Alaska as lying outside of the
jurisdiction of this Synod. Furthermore, the organic act by which the Synod
of the Columbia exists, embraced Alaska. It was frequently referred to in the
General Assembly’s discussions of the organic act, as part and parcel of the
proposed Synod. Its attachment to the Presbytery of Oregon is equally regu-
lar and positive. The enabling act aforesaid assigned Alaska to this Presby-
tery as outlying territory not included within the prescribed boundaries of the
other Presbyteries.

THE ALASKA MISSIONS.

Have been exciting much interest, and the want of accurate information
respecting the country and its people seems not to receive the attention which
it merits. Opinions respecting it are very diverse. On the one hand it is
affirmed that the whole territory is comparatively worthless, and can never be
inhabited by a civilized people; on the other, an extravagant estimate is put
upon its climate and resources. A similar diversity exists respecting its
population. Some estimate the number as high as from eighty thousand to
one hundred tho usand; others reduce it to one-fourth that number, and even

lower. The character of the natives is reported also at an extreme of con-
trast. ;

Plans for Improving the Natives. 35

This extravagant valuatior has been of late industriously circulated in our
church; but counter statements have had such weight with the Board of Home
Missions that they resolved to send to Alaska an agent who should examine
the whole subject of Missions—existing and proposed—and as far as possible,

arrive at definite conclusions, and report the same to them for decisive action.

In consequence of our having jurisdiction over that vast field, it was proper
to designate a member of the Synod of the Columbia, for these responsible
tasks. In pursuance of this appointment, the writer spent more than a month
in Alaska in July and August, 1879, being constantly engaged in the duties as-
signed to him. He allowed no available source of information to escape him
examined existing missions, surveyed the ground with a view to future opera-
tions, and sought in every way to enlighten the aborigines as to our aims, to
encourage our friends, to conciliate opponents, and to attach them all to our
cause. The occasion was very grave, and yet very animating. It required the
best powers which a man could bring to it, illumined by Divine wisdom.
With painstaking and conscientious collocation of facts and comparison with
providential disclosures, the agent of the Board sought to ascertain God’s will.
I cannot doubt that God’s Spirit helped both him and his counsellor and coad-
jetor, Rev. S. H. Young, to arrive at a comprehensive view, present and pros-
pective, of the work of evangelizing and civilizing Alaska, thereby reaffirming
the plans which were adumbrated in my earliest conception of this work, and
which were developed into proportion and consistency when they were at differ-
ent times laid before the Board. The plans will be explained in another part
of this Report.

A remarkable state of mind has existed for a few years past among the na.
tives of Southern Alaska, and especially among the various tribes of the Tlink.
et race. They were losing confidence in the old ways and customs. They are
powerless to arrest the changes that are thrust upon them by the intrusion of a
superior race. Many of them are eager for instruction, and ready to adopt
the garb and customs of civilized life.

But beneath all this was the operation of an invisible power. In the over-
ture to the General Assembly, of 1877, from this Committee, reasons were
given ‘‘for believing that God’s Spirit is leading them to inquire for something
better than they now possess.” The proof of this has become more and more
apparent; and to this divine influence we attribute the rapid developement of
our cause among the Tlinket tribes, and its prosperity at Fort Wrangel.

THE NATIVE TRIBES

of the southern part of Alaska inhabit the coast and adjacent islands from 54°
40’, extending 400 miles to Chilkat River. They are divided into ten or twelve

tribes. The Hydahs belong toa distinct family, and occupy the Prince of
Wales Archipelago. It is affirmed by white people who are acquainted with
these tribes, that they are in a remarkable degree

36 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

SUSCEPTIBLE OF CIVILIZATION.

They are well formed, athletic, and active. Their intelligence is evinced by
the excellence which the native arts have attained among them, and by the
shrewdness and enterprise with which they carry on the trade of that coast.
In industry they compare very favorably with our other native tribes, hundreds
being employed annually as laborers in salmon canneries, cod and herring fish-
eries, and in the active business of the Cassiar gold mines. According to the
uniform testimony of white employers, they are the best laborers that they can
find. In view of the fact that th.t country has for sometime presented the un-
precedeuted spectacle of a territory of the Uniied States entirely unprotected
by civil law or government, these Indians have generally evinced a remarkably
peaceable disposition, the whites traveling freely among their villages withou
fear or molestation. P

\

Without exception, these tribes have all expressed their earnest desire for
schocls and teachers, seeming to recognize the superiority of the white race,
and tracing that superiority to its true source—the enlightenment of the mind by

the acquisition and use of knowledge. To this we add the inspiration of the
Spirit of God.

MISSIONARY OPERATIONS AND LABORERS,

Sitka and Fort Wrangel are the only points at which schools have been es-
tablished. At the former, our school was suspended in consequence of the
removal of Miss Kellogg to Fort Wrangel, on her marriage with our mission-
ary, Rev. S. H. Young. Rev. J. G. Brady, who was appointed as missionary
to Sitka, resigned after a few months’ trial. The beginning of our mission at
Fort Wrangel is too well known to need rehearsing in the Synod. For the
history I refer inquirers to the first Report. At Fort Wrangel, the missionary
in charge is Rev. S. H. Young. He arrived there in August, 1878. Mrs. A.
R. McFarland is mistress of the Industrial School for girls; she arrived in Au-
gust, 1877. Miss M. J. Dunbar, teacher in day-school, arrived in July, 1879.
These are under the appointment of our Board of Howe Missions. Rev. W-
R. Corlies, M. D., and his wife, arrived in June, 1879. They are Baptists,
open communion, and independent. Dr. Corlies has begun the practice of
medicine, and Mrs. Corlies is engaged in teaching a school for Indian children.
Two day-schools, beside the Industrial School, are now in operation at Fort
Wrangel.

The labor of our missionaries at Fort Wrangel have been arduous and try-
ing, in an unusual degree; but they have been prosecuted with courage, dili-
gence and undeviating devotion. The laborers have been sustained by faith
in the cause, and trust in their Master; and in one congregation at least,.pray-
ers for them and their work are seldom omitted. Indeed, every one of these
missionaries, both at Sitka and Wrangel, including Dr. and Mrs. Corlies, set
out from the pastor’s home in Portland for their work, set apart anew in con-
ference and prayer.

Plans for improving the Natwes. 39
ee ee

The preparation of the ground for a church and a school had been going on
for a month or two; a builder employed and sent up from Portland had been
engaged in preliminary work; and now there was landed a large assortment of
building material purchased with funds contributed at Portland. That was a
bright day. All visible signs were auspicious. The heavens smiled, and God’s
presence filled our hearts with gladness and hope.

CHURCH AND SCHOOL BUILDINGS.

Thenceforward the work on both church and school-house was prosecuted
with vigor. The latter was to be built by funds collected at the East—the
former, by funds not then provided. But the need of a House of Worship,
and the importance of building it at this time, were imperative. A year’s de-
lay would be ruinous. _ With seven hundred dollars from Portland, to start
with, we undertook the building of the Church, in the belief that cantributions
would surely be made to save us from pecuniary loss. This building will soon
be ready both for Public Worship and for School.

But a brighter day was dawning. The most memorable event which ever
took place in Alaska was the visible

ORGANIZATION OF THE’ CHURCH OF GOD

at Fort Wrangel—an event which bears date, August 3d, A. D. 1879. It
was the first church ever formed by American Christians in Alaska. It was
composed of natives and whites. Careful examination preceded the admission
of each member. An account of this interesting occurence is given on a
Previous page.

ON THE HOME, OR INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL BUILDING

the work has been suspended for lack of funds. Nearly all the finishing ma-
terial, the hardware, and shingles, have been provided and paid for; but mon-
ey is needed to pay the workmen. and for rough lumber. The rent of the pres-
eut premises is a serious burden on the mission-finances. The house is not
adapted to the purpose, and much increases both Mr. Young’s and Mrs. Mc.
Farland’s cares. The vigor and usefulness of one great department of ou-
work is abridged by the want of a suitable house, which is already half pro.
vided for, The huilding of both church and school-house is having a powerful
influence upon the aborigines. They sce in these structures a visible proof,
both of our interest in them, and the permanency of our plans. Our visit and
our buidlings have attracted the notice and the presence of members of differ.
ent tribes from various and distant localities; and have drawn from them ex-
pressions of earnest desire for teachers and missionaries. A prolonged suspen
sion of these works would therefore react injuriously upon the inhabitants.

LOCALITIES FOR MISSIONS.

One of the chief objects of this tour was to examine the spiritual wants and
destitu ions of Alaska with a view to the introduction of new missions. The
destitutions are evident enough from the fact that over all that broad region no
regular effort to evangelize the natives has ever been made until very recently.

38 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

—___, ee ee ee

The Gra Church for many years has had priests, churches, and schools in
various parts of Alaska, and many native proselytes were won over to that
faith. But there are tribes who were never proselyted, an:ong them the Tlink-
ets, whose condition we are now considering. The Romanists made no direct
effort until after our missions were introduced; and no systematic movement
was made by Protestant or American Christians, until we undertook it. Al-
though we have introduced only two missions, the field remains open to us to
this day, The work of evangelizing these people seems to have been allotted
to us in a remarkable manner.

After careful comparison of facts and opinions, the writer still advocates the
restriction of our missions to the Tlinket people for the present. It can be
shown that their intelligence, aptitude, and vigor qualify them, under the in-
spiration of God’s Spirit, to convey the Gospel to the distant parts of the con-
tinent. Ard our work will be well done, if we can secure and qualify them
as the future teachers of Alaska. Ido not advocate restriction in any such
sense as to keep us from establishing missions in any other promising localities;
as for instance, among the Kenaians, whose territory is contiguous to the Uga
lenzes, at the apex of the great arch; but in the sense of concentration upon
a given area, with a well comprehended aim in view. With these explanations,
we proceed to designace the localities for new missions.

I. A powerful tribe called Chilkats occupy the country around Lynn Canal
and Chilkat River. This canal is the upper extremity of the wonderful influx
of water from the ocean, which created these islands, inlets, bays, and chan-
nels—all bathed in the moderate temperature of the Japanese current. The
physical characteristics of the Chilkat country, its climate and productions,
differ in almost nothing from the other regions occupied by the Tlinkets. The
Chilkat country is dryer and colder in the winter, and warmer in the summery _
than Sitka or Wrangel.

This tribe numbers one thousand. I hada long interview with Kakee the
Chief, and with a band of Chilkats, Rev. S. H. Young being present to as-
sist in the conference. We were centirmed in our impressions that the Chil-
kats were accessible to Christian influences, and desired the introduction of
school and teachers.

The Chilkats are connected by ties of kindred with the Stahkeens, and
though the distance by canoe-navigation is between two and three hundred
miles, the former often visit the latter; and many of them come to Fort Wran-
gel, as other Tlinkets do, for the purposes of trade. ‘Though their country
is remote from the course of ships, and is the most distant and farthest inland
of the remarkable district under our survey, yet their constitutional vigor, in-
tellectual traits, aud independent spirit give them a commanding position

among the tribes, and qualify them for great usefulness after they shall have re-
ceived the Gospel. |

This mission will be more important in some respects than the one at Sitka,
It will open the way directly to the interior northward and beyond the Chilkat
River. I have heard of a tribe, numerous and not speaking the Tlinket ian-

Plans jor Improving the Natives. 39

guage, who inhabit a region which has never been explored by white men, and
who visit the Chilkats for trade. This tribe belongs to the Tinneh people.
An active and devoted missionary among the Chilkats would soon acquire a
competent knowledge of that country and the people who inhabit it. He
would soon obtain access to them, and be able to shed the light of the Gospel
among them. He could with God’s blessing train some of their young men as
teachers and missionaries. If it be true that the Tinneh people are scattered
over the vast interior in families and small bands, it will be a grand expedient
to send such young mei among them to gather them into the fold of Christ.
This will be in all probability the only introductory method which we shall be
able toemploy. And I know of no locality that we could possibly select which
can furnish the facilities for this preliminary work as the Chilkat country.

II. South of Lynn Canal, the country of the Chilkats, lies Admiralty Is-
land inhabited by the Hootznoos. These Indians resemble the other Tlinket
tribes in all respects. It is reported that there are considerable portions of this
island susceptible of cultivation. The inhabitants have practiced the cultiva-
tion of vegetables for a long time; and in the neigkberhoed of their village

gardens abound.

The principal village is admirably located, though retired from the main
channel, on Chatham Straits. This point has attracted my attention from my
first knowledge of it. Its proximity to the Awks and to the Takoos recom
mends it, and it is nearer at least by a canoe-day’s voyage to Fort Wrangel oy
Sitka than the Chilkat towns.

At the mouth of the river of the same name eastward from Lynn Canal live-
the Takoo tribe; and from this point the Tinneh people, roaming over the
vast interior, can be successfully reached.

The whole region requires a thorough inspection with a view to the estabe
lishment of a mission at either location. My earnest desire to visit this region
was frustrated by the fears or the incompetency of the steamboat engineer.
But Mr. Young will make arrangements by which he can visit the country un-
der the auspices of freindly Indians and members of his church, who are con
nected with the families of the Chilkat Tyhees.

Continuing south-east from Wrangel on the curve of the inainland to Port-
land Channel near 50° 40’, we find the Tongass inlet, and fort and tribe of
the same name. (I saw some of them at Wrangel, who expressed the desire so
uniformly maintained by them for teachers and schools. I received the im-
pression that they were not numerous, though intelligent and industrious.
Fort Simpson, in British Columbia, is readily accessible to them, and then
have been brought in some measure under the influence of Rev. Thos. Crosby,
Wesleyan minister at that place.

It is inexpedient to establish a mission at present on Tongass Inlet. Is
would bea wise policy, however, to select a few of the most promising lads
and train them in oui schools for future service in their own tribe. We shal]
undoubtly adopt this policy in order to reach many of the Alaska tribes, as

40 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

altogether the most economical, and most fruitful in ultimate results, as bear
ing upon the complete civilization of the people. I propose to prepare a mon-
ograph on this subject for the use of the Board of Home Missions. The dress
and manners of some members of this tribe, who were visiting at Fort Wrangel,
produced a very favorable impression.

To illustrate the great diversity in estimates of population: General Howard
received the report of 130 Tongass Indians in 1875; Judge Swan, U. S. Com-
missioner, who visited the tribe about four months later, received an estimate
of 400. Thave heard the number placed as h gh as 700, which is no doubt
extravagant. Rev. S. H. Young, who counted this tribe in 1880, places their -
whole number at 267.

III. Abteast of the Tongass Inlet is Prince of Wales Island, the southern
extremity of which overlaps 54° 40', and it is the most southern pont in Alas-
ka. This great island is the largest of the Alexander Arcnipelago. The cli-
mate, especially on the coast toward the ocean, the contour of the land, and
the vegetable productions, all indicate a region as salubrious and agreeable a
the most favored spots within the great elliptical arch of Alaska. It is not
known that the interior has ever been explored. On its coasts and adjacent
isles are several villages and settlements. The population was once numerous;
but “‘civilized” vices and epidemics have almost extinguished some of the
towns, and greatly reduced all. Tuaere are, however, hinIreds remaining, act
cording to the best accounts, who are open to the ameliorating influences of
civilization.

The natives on this island are the Hydahs, Klowaks and Hanegas. The
Hanegas and Klowaks are Tlinkets. The Hydahs came from British Col-
umbia. Their history affords a more interesting chapter than that of the
Tlinkets, chietly because they survived some of the prevalent curses which
have exterminated other uncivilized races when brought into close contact with
a covetous and dominating people. And it is reported, that diseases once so-
destructive among them, have been less prevalent of late years; and that their
numbers are increasing. Their survival is due, not to the forbearance of the
“superior” race, but to their constitutional adaptability to improvement and
progress. With such aptitudes, the Nass and Simpsian Indians are rapidly
conforming to the most substantial and satisfactory conditions of civilization.
The Nass River, Fort Simpson, and Methlakatla Indians, have made a degree
of progress which should satisfy the most exacting critics, of their capacity for
It is true that the faithful labors of these christian teachers have not been
improvement and for self-government. Let it never be forgotten, that Chris-
tianity, both leader and coadjutor of progress, has taken them by the hand
and led them forth.

The Haidahs of Prince of Wales Island are equally promising. The quali-
ties to which I refer, are expressed in physical vigor, in courage, and industry;
in manual skill and ingenuity, displayed in the construction of immense canoes,
the erection of very large and durable houses, invention aud manufacture of
tools, nets, colors, the practice of arts of design, exhibited in embroidery, en-

Plans for Improving the Natives. 4)

graving jewelry of gold and silver, carving in wood and ivory, weaving: various
fabrics, and decorations; the readiness with which they adopt civilized customs
in dress, furniture and manners; and lastly their eager and hungering desire
for schools and missionaries.

There are three or four good localities for missions among these [aidahs.
Only one miss.on is, however, expedient for the present.

I designate the Haid vhs fora full mission not as fifth in importance, but as
third, that is, next to Wrangel and Sitka. But I would not lovaie it until y
had explored the island sufficiently to arrive at intelligent and well balanced

conclusions. I designate this archipelago, on account of its geographical po-

sition—a reason which needs for confirmation only a glance at the map. And
[ propose it also on account of the connection which subsists between the Hai-
dahs and the Tlinkets. They are neighbors, with whom they maintain inter-
course for traffic and in social relations. As the predominant characteristic-
and pursuits of the Hydahs and the Tlinkets are so nearly identical, so theis
geozriphical location in licates a common interest and destiny. And any com-
prehensive plan for their improvement must be deduced from the common facts
and principles. It remains for us in the Providence of God to shape their des-
tiny for all time, as well as for eternity. My daily prayer is that God will
show us His plan, and give us grace and wisdom to prosecute that, and no
other. *

I have now conducted you from the apex of the great elliptical arch east-
ward and southward to the boundary line. In most of the voyage we have
had plain sailing, and took observations over the entire landscape. Let us re-
turn to two of the ports, which we purposely passed by. The first is Sitka,
which requires only a few observations.

THE SITKA MISSION

can be immediately re-opened upon the arrival of a missionary. Room can be
obtained as before of the Government, rent free, for schools and public wor-
ship ; and accommodations for the family on the same terms, or at nominal
rent. Unusual care should be exercised in the choice of a missionary for this
place. It is a position of unusual importance, owing in part to the fact that
Sitka is the principal rendezvous of the United States Government, (so far as
it maintains any in this forsaken Territory,) and in part to the fact that infor-
mation from distant sections of Alaska, and from the vast seas that stretch to
Asia and the Arctic, concentrates at Sitka. Ships bound in either direction
commonly take the ‘‘outside passage,” and touch at no other port in Alaska.
Sitka and its surroundings present great attractions to tourists, whose numbers
are increasing. Miners, traders, trappers mingle in the streets with Russians;
half-breeds, aborigines—not a numerous crowd, but destined to enlarge. Sit-
ka is the home of the tribe of the same name, a powerful branch of the Tlink-
et stock. Members of other tribes congregate here. No indolent, irregular,

*I am constantly driven to condense even the substance of my report, and to summarise

what I would like to amplify.

42 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

unstable or worldly-minded man or woman should attempt to operate in any
department of original missionary work, but especially in such a place as Sit-
ka. The mission calls for an able man, with a well disciplined mind and a
devotiona| spirit, fully committed to the work, and determined at any and ev-
ery cost to succeed in it. The Mission also calls fora school-teacher of a
similar spirit.

SALIENT POINTS.

It is observable that the localities designated for missions are salient points.
Sitka Is in the same category. The Hoonyas, Yukatats and Ugalenzes, of
whom practically very little is known—all stretching along the coast from Cross
Sound under the Saint Elias Alps and Fairweather mountains westward to
Atna or Cupper River—can be reached more easily and frequently from Sitka
than from any other point designated. The Chilkats and Hoochinoos can
also be approached with less inconvenience than from Fort Wrangel.

These facts sustain our plan of concentration. With Rev. S. H. Young at
the latter place, another like him at Sitka, and a third of the same stamp at
Lynn Canal, seasonable intelligence could be conveyed along the lines of the
triangle, harmony and co-operation could be maintained, and their influence
and efforts could be united upon either point as occasion might require. The
fourth on Cross Sound, and the fifth at Cordova Bay will complete the num-

ber of agents required at present, for prosecuting missionary labors in Southern
Alaska.

During the military regime in that territory, the aborigines had no reason
for respecting white men, nor for desiring instruction from them. Thinking
4ll1 white men were like those whom they regarded as lawless oppressors and
destroyers, they entertained only hatred for the whole race. Evils, which are
nursed and bred into monstrous life in the contact of heathenism with degen.
erate civilization, flamed up and threatened to exterminate the weaker races:
There were civilians and soldiers in Alaska who sought to avert or mitigate
these disorders. Commanders issued strenuous regulations, and subalterns
there were who aimed to execute them. But it cannot be concealed that the
general apathy was far more powerful than all army orders. Incredulity on
the subject of civilzing the aborigines is almost universal in the army, as it is
also widely entertained in political circles. This being met by the eager thirst
of trade which often scruples not at the means of gain, the depressed and help-
Jess Indian is ground between the nether mill-stone of remorseless trafic and
the upper mill-stone of demagogical subserviency—the soldicrs being stationed
around asa police to thrust back into the hopper any Indian who should de-
cline to be extinguished in that way.

Notwithstanding the efforts of faithful men, the evils of contact grew fear-
fully, and without moral and religious restraints. To provide these, together
with the blessings of common education, the Chairman of your Committee
was in frequent consultation with the friends of Alaska, among the most stren
uous of whom were army officers themselves, whose faithful efforts had beep
frustrated by the very want of those influences. We entered the field as the

Plans for Improving the Natives. 43

military withdrew, and the moral landscape was relieved of that grim shade,
No civil law took the place of the military rule. But Providence stretched
forth another agency to check lawlessness and to dry up sources of crime, and
introduce

THE TRUE PRINCIPLES OF’ CIVILIZATION.

By the exhibition of Christian character in word and deed, we won the con-
fidence of the natives, and found the way to their hearts. They felt the need
of friends, and at once responded. to the voice of kindness, confirmed by phil-
anthropic deeds. The strongest power at Sitka was moalr; and it served the
purposes of a municipal police, as lonz as our school continued there. It kept
the peace, checking even the most turbulent, and ruling down the spirit of
riot, and the passion for revenge. As bayonets and batteries disappear,

AN EDUCATED CHRISTIAN WOMAN

enters the scene, and at once and without knowing it, commands the situations
J. S: Oakford, Esq., an English tourist, a gentleman of world-wide observa.
tion, remarked of our teacher, ‘‘Miss Kellogg is the most powerful person in
Alaska. The Indians will do whatever she wishes.” As an example of her
influence, she arrested a murderous fight, which enlisted the whole tribe, as its
involved a violation of some of their most cherished customs. The occasion
was a severe test, since she did not venture upon the scene, but simply and re-
peatedly sent the dispatch, ‘‘ No fight.”

THE STRONGEST POWER AT FORT WRANGEL

also was moral. Bitter disputes which had occasioned bloodshed and demand-
ed life for atonement, were referred to Mr. Mallory, who was the first of our
missionaries, with the promise that his decision should be final; and it was
final. Mrs. McFarland, like Miss Kellogg, passed through the most trying
ordeals in checking customs of foul injustice and often leading to murder;
and she came off conqueror. j

I must also mention one of several examples of the same prevailing influ-
ence wielded by Mr. Young. The Stahkeens assembled for the purpose of
discussing ways and means for sustaining the prestige and influence of ancient
games and customs, among the most deadly of which was witchcraft. The
evil of these Mr. Young had unsparingly exposed. He called a council, and
during his speech was interrupted with violent demonstrations by a counsellor of
the hyas tyhee. Mr. Young thrust him down into his seat saying, ‘‘ Be still,
I have the floor,” and then finished his address without further disturbance.
This bold stroke, displaying at once the spirit of intrepidity and command,
overawed the opposition, and greatly strengthened the friends of the new order
of things, which our mission had introduced. Shustack, an old man, cne of
the supreme chiefs,: anda few of the most influential men of the Stahkeen
tribe, were much displeased, and resolved to adhere at all hazards to the ancient
regime.

I heard but one opinion expressed of Mr. Young’s course, and that was com.
mendatory ina high degree. He has acquired over the natives an influence

44 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

which is effectual in many respects; and they come to him as toa magistrate
to settle disputes and difficulties, or as to a competent friend for counsel.

On any arrival at Fort Wrangel, I resolved to conciliate our opponents, or
disarm them if I could not win them over to our cause.

CONFERENCES WITH CHIEFS AND HEAD-MEN,.

Some of these, and among them both the hyas tyhees, Shustack and Shaikes,
avoided us. As they seemed to decline my special invitations to an inier-
view, | sought them, deeming it of great importance to show them respect,
and at the same time to convince them that our aims in visiting them were un-
selfish and worthy of their approbation and support.

I endeavored first to allay suspicion—the prevalent feeling of Indians toward

white men—and to remove, or at least suspend their prejudices, and thus get
upon a common footing, where I could deal directly with their understandings.
T then assured them that we had no sinister design in visiting them; that we
were their friends, and that we were showing what our object was by manifest
signs in the buildings we were erecting for their people. We labored to make
the changes we were introducing less repugnant and even acceptable to them,
by showing the necessity for their adoption, a main point in moving these rigid
old conservatives. They must conform to the new order of things, or be
swallowed up in the tide that was rolling in. We drew illustrations from the
fate of Indians in the United States. We had come along way to show our
regard for them, and now we wanted them to show a real interest in our labors
in their behalf; we wanted them not to stand off, but to look into our proceed-
ings, for we had nothing to hide. - And seeing how much we who were strangers
desired their welfare, we wanted them to understand it, and put areal value
upon it. They being chiefs, should take the lead in everything that would
make their people happy and prosperous; and we knew that they would do
this when they came to know us better. Finally, we entreated them to trust
us, until they could understand what blessings we were bringing to them and to
their people.

These incidents and experiences go to illustrate principles which are funda-
mental in human nature, and therefore universal. They touch the common
bonds and sympathies of brotherhood, and mould them into ties of fellowship,
and pledges of amity and peace. We respectfully invite the consideration of
the people and Government of the United States to the true solution of the
Indian question.

These conferences, it cannot be doubted, will be fruitful in beneficial conse-
quences. It illustrates again the sufficiency and economy of moral power suit-
ably directed. The salutary influence of one of these was immediately felt at
Glenora, B. C., in calming an excitement which prevailed there, occasioned by
threats to rescue an Indian who was in prison charged with crime, But the
moral momentum of that interview will be felt forever. I was burdened with
the conviction that the hour was decisive, and that the Lord was there.

Plans for Improving the Natives. 45

In these interviews, much that I said was assented to With what we had rea-
son to believe was sincere cordiality; and even the most obstinate engaged no
longer to oppose us.

»

These conferences did not embrace the natives alone; [ conversed freely with
white men of all classes, the one subject being, the Aborigines—their capabili-
ties, condition, and prospects. I was gratified to discover a far more favora-
able opinion of them among the white men who are acquainted with them,
than I had reason to expect. I report in general respecting the views of white
men in the Territory, that I heard not of one that would cast any impediment
in the way of the improvement of the natives. Uniformly,

THE WHITES EXPRESSED INTEREST IN OUR AIMS 5

some promised co-operation, and all concurred in the opinion that the protec-
tion of law should be thrown around the natives, and that they were ready to
petition the Government for the attainment of these ends. Many of them en-
tertain just and benevolent sentiments towards the natives.

To remove a misapprehension, it should be known that our missionaries and
teachers extend the advantages of missions and schools to the white inhabitants
as well as to the natives. Weaim to benefit both, and make no distinctions.
Our cause contemplates the highest good of our whole country, and all classes
and conditions of its inhabitants. It includes all judicious means for pro-
moting the public welfare, and advocates the rights of all. Regarding this
view as embraced in my errand, my attention was frequently drawn to

THE ANOMALOUS STATE OF SOCIETY IN ALASKA,

The absence of Civil Government continually exposes the inhabitants to all
the evils of anarchy. No legal process whatever can be issued, because there
is no court to try it, no officer to execute it.

To the ‘‘white” people, this condition is fraught with great risks. It virtu-
ally gives a license to the lawless and profligate. Beyond the force of numbers
brought to act in an emergency and soon disbanded, there is no restraint but
popular sentiment, uttered not in the public press, for there is none—not in
conventions, for the people hold none—but in the ordinary intercourse of life,
and therefore feeble, irregular, and inefficient.

In law-governed communities, public opinion must be continually sustained
and reinforced by the various appliances known to enlightened society, and
tested by long experience. With these supports, it is often apathetic and inop-
erative; and this is sufficient to explain why the most equitable laws sometimes
cease to be administered. In Alaska the supports of a well ordered commu-
nity are rudimental and unorganized. Moral influences are weak, and have no
acknowledged leaders.

The annual voyage of a revenue cutter, the appearance of a naval vessel.
the monthly mail anc the steamer that transports it, an occasional sail flapping
over a solitary ocean, are reminders Of civilization, government, and law in
other parts of the world, and no doubt operate as some restraint upon the dis-
solute and turbulent spirits that seek to shun public observation.

46 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

But occasions which test all restraints have arisen in other societies, and wil]
doubtless arise in Alaska. The aborigines, exasperated by real or fancied
wrongs, may be the occasion or the instruments of intestine strife. Unscrupu-
lous ‘‘white” men, playing upon the fears of native ignorance and suspicion,
for lust or gain, may be the clandestine operators, like managing gamblers in
mining stocks. There is no reason for supposing that punishment for such
crimes will fall upon the guilty instigators, but as usual in the United States,
upon the helpless and deluded victims whom they employ and then forsake.
The dangers that attend anarchy are always present liabilities. No man can
say that they are not.

THE EXPOSURE OF THE ABORIGINES

tO unjust treatment in case of difficulty, is fearfully increased. They are un™
acquainted with our modes of administering law; they are ignorant of our
language ; treated with contempt and often abused, they look only for injustice;
and smarting under a sense of injury, stimulated by the passion of revenge,
they resort to means of defense or retribution which are justifiable according
to their code, but which our code takes out of the hand of the citizen and puts
into the hand of the magistrate.

When the vindictive blow falls, it smites the innocent if the guilty cannot be
found. According to primitive ideas of justice, if a white man inflicts the
wrong, a white man must expiate it. Then the country rings with ‘‘ another
horrible outrage,” and the public press groans, and shudders, and calls for the
extermination of a race that dares to retaliate for unredressed grievances and
wrongs. Being too familiar with some of these outbreaks on the Pacific Coast,
I saw in Alaska the dread foreshadows of similar enormities.

But our country cannot afford to be unjust to any of its inhabitants. View-
ing its own struggles for equal rights, it cannot throw contempt upon its history
by crushing the helpless, nor allowing any dominant class to usurp the posses-
sions of an inferior race, by fraud or violence, or by the destruction of the
owners.

REMOVE THE OCCASIONS FOR OUTBREAKS

by the impartia] administration of justice and the maintainance of equity be-
tween man and man, and there will be no outbreaks.

I have indexed many references to reports and publications touching the
foregoing subjects; and being desirous of adding to this information the views
of practical men on the most urgent and practicable points, (and which are
seldom found in print,) I prepared a series of questions, covering the ground
under survey. These were addressed to persons of various opinions, but who
were qualified by residence in Alaska or familiarity with it, to express intelli-
gent views concerning its condition and demands.

Among these gentlemen, as well as among all with whom I conversed, |
find a remarkable concurrence of opinion touching the duty of the Government
to make immediate provision for the legal protection of the inhabitants of the

Plans for Improving the Natives. 47

Territory, and for the civilizing of the native population, with a view to thei!
permanence and prosperity as an integral part of the nation.

I regard any survey of Alaska as incomplete without an impartial considera-
tion of this whole subject; and I therefore propose to present it in the form of
an address and petition to the President of the United States, with a view to
Congressional action.*

THE ESTABLISHMENT OF SCHOOLS

is a principal part of our plan for the civilization of Alaska, and altogether in
dispensable.

The Russo-Greek Church introduced schools at several places in the south-
western curve of the great arch, and a few of these still exist. A sketch of
these schools, which I received from a Russian ecclesiastic, shows that in some
of them only the simplest elementary branches were attempted, and that the
children of the original native stock were not kept uniler tuition long enough
to make a permanent impression.

Their school at Sitka, long ago disbanded, was cited as anexample. Schouls
among the Aleutes were more successful. I think no injustice is done by stat-
ing that the degree of attainment in these schools was exceedingly low, and
foredoomed to be ineffectual by poverty of aim and influence of surroundings.
The lever was too slender to hoist the children out of the slough in which their
parents were wallowing.

It was not the policy of the Russian Government to train its subjects to in-
dependent thought; nor of the Russian Fur Company to develop the minds of
their hunters, except in sagacity to outwit the game; and Russian ecclesiastics,
however desirous to enlighten the native population, would have found the task
beyond their strength, being overborne by the combined influences of tempora
and spiritual despotism, traffic and general apathy, or ethnical aversions.
Hence the chief aim of these schools seemed to be to proselyte the children
and make them familiar with the Manual of the church worship.

The very muderate results of these schools are cited as decisive objections
o all efforts to educate these people, on the ground that they are incapable of
mprovement, and must therefore be left to suffer all the evils of ignorance.
This inference was urged by an intelligent Russian priest, and is entertained
by a few of the old residents of Alaska. I refer to it to check the growth of a
pernicious error, which has other roots besides a misguided proselytism.

Whenever the aim of those schools was catechetical instruction and not in-
tellectual training, the results which followed could have been foreseen. The
tasks were irksome to the scholars; the mind was left undisciplined; the prac-
tical knowledge for which some of those youths were hungering was not com.
municated ; and as soon as the school-pressure was removed, the lapse into the
old state of ignorance was inevitable.

We cite the results of our Schools as already providing a confutation of this

error, The results have not yet acquired the force of protracted trial, nor the
*See No. V. Letter to President Hayes.

48 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

consistent expansion which attends varied experience; but they furnish satisfac
tory evidence of native capacity, retentiveness, and faculty to turn to account
what they acquire. Wecan expect nothing better than this of any children
under the sun.

This conclusion is the impartial judgment of men once prejudiced against
the schuols, as well as of those whose observation led them to the spontaneous
expression of favorable opinions.

COMMON SCHOOLS

should he projected in sufficient numbers to gather in all the children of the
several tribes. Only the rudiments should be taught ; and teachers and schol-
ars should be furnished with the most approved facilities. But as all these
schools cannot be opened at once,

A TRAINING SCHOOL

for Teachers must be established wherever a Mission is located, and in con-
nection with acommon school. There will thus be two grades.

The aim of the Lower Grade will be, in addition to learning the common
branches, to teach the mind to think and to acquire knowledge for itself.

The aim of the Higher Grade should be the development of the character
upon the basis of whatevcr is sound therein, taking the most approved modelS
and examples known to educators, for general outline and leaving the filling
in and the filling up to the wisdom of the teacher and the aptitudes of the
scholar. The wise teacher will humor harmless idiosyncrasies, and indulge
traditional customs and hereditary tastes that are not inconsistent with true
progress. The School for Training Teachers should also be furnished with the
simple apparatus that experience has shown to be most useful.

A BOARDING SCHOOL FOR GIRLS

was originated at Fort Wrangel designed to protect them from the cruel abuse
of marriage customs and rescue them from a life of infamy. It is also an asy-
lum for orphans and for girls who are given to the mission.

This school will be turned to good account in two ways:

I. By teaching, in addition to the rudiments of mental education, the do
mestic arts by improved methods, making their houses homes. Out of this
will expand,

II. The training school for female teachers. This class of instructors,
never yet adequately vaiued in civilized communities, will wield a direct and
most decisive influence upon the renovation of domestic and social life in
Alaska.

AN INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL FOR BOYS

is the counterpart and corollary of this institution. A project for such a school
is already outlined.

These departments of usefulness have connections which require discussion
and explanation that must be laid before the Board of Home Missions. And
I am constrained to dismiss the subject with the remark, that I am not pre-

Plans for Improving the Natives. 49

pared to say that any of these schools should be sustained by funds of the
Board of Home Missions, nor by independent contributions. I am clear,
however, on the point that the Government of the United States should pro-
vide accommodations required for all schools and pay salaries of teachers.
The Government has adopted this policy among the Indians in othe: parts of
the country, with very promising results. In Alaska it can be applied with
greater prospects of success, and at a much reduced expenditure.

This is one of the grandest fiefds of usefulness. The future of Alaska’s
races will be placed in the hands of these teachers.

A few years’ trial of these schools will show whether the Aborigines have
reached the level of ascent towards a higher civilization, or whether they are
capable of being qualified for maintaining a creditable rank among the people
of the United States. On this point the writer entertains not a solitary doubt.
The Hydahs and Tlinkets exhibit qualities which give them rank equal to the
great majority of emigrants from Europe, who are speedily and without train-
jpg in our schools admitted to the privileges of American citizenship.

SECULAR VIEWS OF OUR SCHOOLS

amply sustain the tone of this Report touching their usefulness and popularity.
I have a number of references and quotations of this character. I call attention
to a few only. The first is from a shrewd and observant correspondent of the
San Francisco ‘‘Chronicle” and the New York ‘‘Sun.” He writes from
Sitka, May 15th, 1878:

Iam unwilling to close this letter without an attempt to do justice to the
intelligent, brave, and self-denying young woman, who has lately established a
school for the instruction of Indian children. Miss Kellogg is from the state
of New York, and came out here a few months ago under engagement to the
Presbyterian Board of Missions. Her school is a notable success; the scholars,
already numbering seventy, are bright and quick, and are making excellent
progress in the rudiments of English tuition; they exhibit a great desire to
learn, and are apparently warmly attached to their teacher. The old Indians
also show much interest in the success of the school, and Sitka Jack has taken
it under his special protection. This school is an excellent enterprise, as it
instructs the Indian youth in a knowledge of the United States, and teaches
them to be Americans rather than Russians. For several years nothing had
been done for the instruction or improvement of these people, and it is well to
have it taken out of Russian hands, even if the officiating priest felt inclined
to keep up a school, which he does not. In her modest and scantily furnished
home, Miss Kellogg is simply a charming young lady, an accomplished musi-
cian, full of repartee and fun, and as free from cant as if she had never heard
hor written the word missionary.

I cite another authority, Major W. G. Morris, special agent of the United
States’ Treasury Department, who in his Report on Alaska, speaks in highest
terms of commendation of our schools, referring to our teachers by name, and
saying of them that they are in his opinion ‘‘ the pioneers of an undertaking

50 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

which sooner or later must work a radical change in the condition of the natives
of Alaska and the solution of the ever-vexed Indian question, as far as these
coast tribes are concerned.”

IN CLOSING THIS REPORT,

{ appeal to the sense of justice which belongs to the American people. If the
primitive races of Alaska are doomed to extinction, being incapable of surviv-
ing in the struggle for life, why not allow*the course of nature to extinguish
them, and forbear to anticipate the catastrophe by injustice or cruelty ?

It ill becomes a brave and magnanimous people to seize lands and confiscate
the scant resources of a depressed and vanishing race. Let us preserve as
relics ofa prehistoric past our predecessors on this continent. We invite natives
of other countries to a full participation in the privileges of our own beloved
land; here are natives of our soil, children of the first families, loyal to the
flag, brave, experts on land and sea, both producers and consumers. They
ask not for chairity, nor for exemption from the obligations of American citizens.
In peace or war, we pledge them to do and bear their part without dissent or
dallying.

They plead not for Indian Agents, but for magistrates ; not for eleemosynary
institutions, but for schools and churches. They are decayed families, but they
remember their ancient respectability, which, though they know. it not, we
know is coeval with that of the Teutonic and Gallic nations, the Scottish
clans and Saxon hordes. They plead for what our ancestors got from abroad—
the means of enlightenment; and bid fair to outstrip our ancestors in their
degree of progress, as modern civilization surpasses all that preceded it.

Every maxim of pacific statesmanship ; every sentiment of philanthropy ;
all respect for national honor; every principle of political economy, concur in
the positions assumed in this Report, and urge the immediate adoption of its
recommendations.

All which is respectfully submitted,
A. L. LINDSLEY,

Chairman of Executive Committee of the Synod of the Columbia, and
Commissioner of the Board of Home Missions of the Presbyterian Church.

Suggestions Concerning Schools—Ways and Means. 5t
REPORTS ON ALASKA.—NO. IV.

Suggestions Concerning Schools—Ways and Means.

In closing my Second Report, I intimated that I should give you a sketch
of the work at Fort Wrangel; and some considerations touching the manage-
ment of Missions to be introduced in other places. A part of this task was
executed in my Supplementary Report, and I now propose to execute the
remainder—all in compliance with the Board’s directions.

The influence of civilized domestic life upon the Aborigines of Alaska, is
very great. A missionary’s wife can, in many instances, be as useful as her
husband. There are calls which she alone can answer, and lessons which she
only can teach.

- DWELLINGS FOR MISSIONARY FAMILIES

must be erected, except at Sitka where rent is nominal. There is no occasion
for putting much style or expense upon the building. But there may be some
occasion for the missionary to endure hardships at first. A man of adaptations
could make himself comfortable in one of the capacious houses of the natives.
He can make the side apartments suitable for domestic and private life, and fit
up the spacious interior for school and church—this for temporary use—looking
to the Providential future for radical improvements.

A LARGE SAVING ON THE COST OF BUILDINGS

can be made at the localities proposed for new missions. The natives put up
houses of timber, round and hewn, which are very strong, and can be made
very comfortable. A ‘‘white” carpenter with good tools can efficiently direct
native workmen in fitting up buildings of this kind—with some improvements
in flooring and ceiling—which will answer a very good purpose, until something
better can be provided in process of time. But the missionary’s abode, what-
ever it may be, should be made at the outset comfortable, and conformable to
sanitary laws. No permanent buildings should be erected, until the eligibility
of the location shall have been adequately tested. After even a brief experi-
ment, a change of location may be discovered to be eminently desirable.

A DWELLING FOR THE MISSIONARY AT FORT WRANGEL

must be erected near the Mission Buildings. He lives now in the garrison, oc-
cupying two separate houses, small and inconvenient, for which he pays one
hundred and eighty dollars per annum, with incidental expenses that bring his
rent up to two hundred dollars. But the distance from the new buildings is
too great for daily travel. Yet his duties will require him to be there daily.

FOR CONFERENCE WITH THE NATIVES

a large room should be provided in the missionary’s house. They manifest a
trustful and teachable spirit towards any one who wins their confidence. The
missionary must secure this position among them, and effectually maintain it.
The alternative is, utter failure. His principal competitors on the way to this

52 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

vantage ground are the chiefs. They are clothed with hereditary authority of
the most despotic and arbitrary nature. It seems never to have been questioned,
so far as to have led to sedition or insurrection. This unqualified submission
may be explained by the associations in the midst of which the authority is
exercised. Being regarded as the great Father of the whole tribe, the

CHIEF’S RULE IS PATRIARCHAL

like that of the Arabs. The tribe is therefore bound to obedience, not only
by the ordinary sense of duty, but by the ties of kindred and the impulses of
affection. These conditions and their influence are speedily detected by a
careful observer. After this explanation, it needs only to be hinted that a
leading aim of the missionary is, to compel the respect and gain the confidence
of the chiefs. If they are conciliated he will have plain sailing into the land-
locked harbors of the people. But remembering the caution of the ancient
Oracle, ‘‘put not your trust in princes,” he will acm ¢o win the people, attach
them inseparably to the cause, and foster in every way their desires tor the
salutary changes which he is introducing. Then if the chief sails in, well
and good; if not, the rising tide will float him in orsink him, I need scarcely
say, that a wise policy dictates to avoid a collision as long as you consistently
can; but if the conflict must come, strike boldly for the truth and trust in God.

We must make all arrangements that promise success. We stand committed
to the task of establishing modern Christian Civilization in Alaska. With
God’s help we shall accomplish it. But we must employ all means which the
customs of society, the peculiar traits and dispositions of the people, and the
laws of nature, put within our reach.

These reflections occurred to me again and again as I sat a silent spectator at
the wawas (conferences) which our Missionary Young held with the natives;
or when I engaged in them myself, and was impressed with the conviction that
I was attracting those untutored minds away from their bondage, and attaching
them to the new cause and new friends. They come to Mr. Young now with
occasions for advice often trivial, sometimes momentous to them; and he re-
ceives them all with uniform kindness, and uses his utmost endeavors to assist,
relieve and guide them. He has a chieftain’s power over them. These inter-
views are held in his narrow apartments to the great inconvenience of his
family, and exposing him to many interruptions and much loss of time. In
the missionary’s house a large room is needed for these conferences with the
natives. A few hundred dollars will be sufficient to erect a rude but comforta-
ble dwelling near the church and school.

THE HOME FOR GIRLS AT FORT WRANGEL

grew out of circumstances calculated to arouse the keenest sympathies and
immediate efforts for relief. Instances of trading for marriageable girls was of
frequent occurrence, and excited no attention, unless accomplished by coercion
or cruelty. Among the natives the price is the purchase of a wife—a chief
part of the marriage ceremony—differing in no essential from the matrimonial

Suggestions Concerning Schools— Ways and Means. 53

customs which have prevailed among many nations from time immemorial.
Sensual white men adopted the custom to abuse it. Our Mission School was
brought inte direct collision with it. Girls begged for protection, and ou
missionaries interposed. But there was no longer safety or shelter for them
in their fathers’ houses. The largest garrison building was obtained rent-free
for a year, and the Gir/’s Home began. The inmates, however, are not confined
to the class of girls above described. Others who have no guardians, and little
girls given to the mission are also admitted. - For all these, it is an Asylum.

This institution required a much larger outlay than was contemplated for
schools at Fort Wrangel. The matron, Mrs. McFarland, is supported by the
Board of Home Missions ; but all that belongs to the housekeeping, the cloth-
ing of inmates, and their daily sustenance, has been met in a great measure by

contributions, chiefly from societies of ladies in the states. The irregularity of
these supplies has been keenly felt already; and some provision must be made,

like the steady flow of a perennial spring. The method of scholarships at one
hundred dollars per annum is meeting only a limited success. There are now
seventeen girls in the Home, and more will be provided for in the new build-
ing. It is the intention, however, to teach the inmates as fast as possible, and
as far as consistent with the time necessarily consumed in school, to do the
work of the house, and to make their own garments; and in short, to conduct
the Home on the most economical basis. Its removal to the building which is
now being erected for it, will give it room for development into an /udustrial
and Training School. In it will be taught, in addition to the rudiments of
mental education,

THE ARTS OF HOUSEHOLD THRIFT AND SELF-SUPPORT.

The native women are familiar with some of these, but their tools and uten-
sils are clumsy, and their methods slow and laborious. They evince, however,
both capacity to acquire new arts and eagerness to adopt improved ways. Their
houses are large, durable, and comparatively comfortable; and what is most
needed now, is the modern house-keeper to transform them into homes, and the
christian mother to train the family into purity, usefulness and intelligence.

It will thus assume the character of an Industrial School. For this purpose,
it will require an outfit and furnishing that should be supplied without delay,
to facilitate this species of education, which is now indispensable to the civili-
zation of these people. And it can be taught in thisschool. We shall therein
gain in thoroughness and efficiency, what our self-denying missionaries will not
fail to inculcate in social intercourse. Out of this department of the school
must grow the other, as a tree unfolds its branches from the trunk. Its roots
are spread in the soil of our nature, but the tree must grow under the fostering
care of Christianity, and expand in its vigor and utility in the open air of daily
life, to bear fruit for all who seek its shelter.

THE TRAINING SCHOOL FOR FEMALE TEACHERS

must be engrafted upon this stock. This department, therefore, needs not to
be dwelt upon in detail. Its advantages, like the fruit of a well grown tree,

54 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

will be co-extensive with all home life, and its salutary influences will be dif-
fused abroad to transform society. This outlook of the school upon the domestic
and social renovation of the inhabitants, will alone justify the expediency of
maintaining it permanently.

I have thus shown how the original basis of the Home for Girls should be
expanded upon an area of great and growing usefulness. I do not recommend
the introduction of such an institution in any other locality. This one will an-
swer for the Tlinket people. The demand fora similar ‘‘ Home” exists at Sitka
and other points ; and we must not be betrayed into inconsiderate steps which
will involve expenditures that the benevolence of the church will not sustain, or
the expediency of which in any other place is an open question, until experience
teaches us. The natural and indispensable complement of this institution is

A SIMILAR SCHOOL FOR BOYS.

The purity and well being of the future homes of Alaska demand this pro-
vision for the young men, with all the force of an absolute law. And their
secular prosperity requires, with equal urgency, that they be trained to a
competent knowledge of the common arts and christian habits of civilized
jife. No time should be lost in equipping this school, which should be located
for obvious reasons, at Fort Wrangel, where the Tlinket tribes most do congre-
gate. The neglect of the physical and manual education of the aborigines in
other parts of our country, accounts, in a great degree, for the slender results
following the schools opened for their benefit.

THE OUTCOME OF BOARDING SCHOOLS

among the heathen is not in general satisfactory. My own examination of the
same among Indians on Reservations, leads to the like conclusion. There is
no adequate compensation. The seed sown seems soon to wither. The
children slide back into the old life and ways, chiefly, because there is no
elevation in society; and the graduates are not numerous enough to create it.
There is no inducement to rise or improve. In the few who ever felt the inspi-
ration, it was smothered by the mephitic vapors cf the old sepulchre; and the
others who never felt it, had nothing to lose, and subsided by speedily forgetting
what little they had been taught.

But when the mental training shall be accompanied with a practical knowledge
of the mechanical arts and farming, it will supply the means to keep above the
barbarism of their former state, and the motive will not be wanting. But the
boarding school does not accoinplish this, because most of the children are not
gathered into it. I have, therefore, strenuously advocated

THE INTRODUCTION OF INDUSTRIAL DAY SCHOOLS

for Indian children on all our Reservations, the Boarding School to be sustained
and recruited by youth chosen from the day schools, for their promising quali-
ties and aptness to teach. This class of schools I recommend without qualifi-
cation, for the Tlinket people. No reasonable doubt of their success can be
entertained,

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 55

The degree of success which has been reached in the schools at Fort Wrangel,
has already come to the knowledge of the Board, and needs not, therefore, to
be rehearsed in this Report. I cannot dismiss the subject in this brief way,
without expressing my full approbation of the teachers, and my admiration for
the mental qualities, aptitudes, and progress of the scholars. The Common
School is the lever, and Christianity the power, which will lift this people to the
common ground of our modern civilization.

But this great work should not be carried out by the Church alone. The
expense is too great. As the advantages of the civilization of Alaska will
accrue to the people of the United States, so the Government of the United
States should provide the means, and support the agencies, for the education of
this long neglected people.

In my next Report, I shall show the relation of these Schools to the Govern.
ment, and propose my plan for Congressional action, with such additional
enforcement as increasing knowledge of the situation is capable of imparting.

All of which, is respectfully submitted,
A. L. LINDSLEY.

REPORT ON ALASKA.—NO. V.

Relation of the People of the United States to the Civilization of
the Native Alaskans.—A Letter addressed to President Hayes.

sea, —This Letter was published at Washington by authority of the President, and
circulated in Congress and among officers of the Government. Copies in manuscript had
previously been sent to a few influential citizens. The writer was compelled by arduous
professional labors, to condense his argument and abridge his illustrations, which together
might be expanded into a volume. The plea as it stands has already been so effective, that
the writer is induced to send it forth in this grouping, with the earnest hope that its influence
may be enlarged and decisive.

SIPKA, ALASKA, July 16, 1879.
To his Excellency, Rutherford B. Hayes, President of the United States:
Certain obligations were solemnly assumed by our Government upon extend-
ing our sovereignty over Alaska. In addition to the ordinary guaranties of
civil and political rights, the inhabitants were to be incorporated with the
inhabitants of our Country. No man questions this, who has read the treaty.

Two things are plain as the sun that shines on the glittering dome of Mt,
St. Elias. I. That we are bound to extend a government over Alaska. II.
That we are bound to extend the means of enlightenment to the people of
Alaska. The Russian Government superintended this obligation through
officials and stipendiaries of its own. The genius of our institutions forbids
us to meet the obligations in the same way : but its stress is as great, and even
stronger. A despotism may survive without intelligence among its subjects ;
a republic, never. Nothing is more clearly settled than that the security of
our institutions is anchored in the intelligence of our citizens, guided by morality
and virtue, and sustained by a sense of obligation to the Supreme Being. The
paramount influence of this principle is seen in our System of Universal Edu-
cation,

56 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

We are bound, therefore, to leave no portion of our Country in ignorance,
This life-giving power must circulate to the extremities to prevent paralysis.
The law of self-preservation dictates the extension of our enlightening policy to
Alaska. Our nation, tolerating all creeds and adopting none, should foster the
spirit of piety among the people, as giving sanction to Oaths and promoting in
general a conscientious regard for duty. Without this no free nation could
continue to exist : for self-government is the first law of a free people. Noman
is self-governed who is not regulated by a lawhigher than the State. That higher
law is God’s, and it brings us before Him. These ideas are accepted substan-
tially by the great bulk of our people. They determine the educational policy
of our land, which aims at the training of every child in intelligence and
virtue. If the preservation of our institutions rests upon these, we cannot
afford to neglect any portion of the rising generation.

Modern civilization is a very comprehensive term. It means the benefits of
invention, the improvement of arts and sciences, the cheapening of productions.
It means diffusion of knowledge, respect for humanity, and benevolent efforts
for the exposed and neglected classes. It brings, in short, the means of a
higher and better life to every man’s door. But the diffusion of these blessings
is not in proportion to their freeness and abundance. They are barred out by
Sloth and Ignorance, and the troop of vices which always lurk in their shadows.
They create the dens of infamy. They hatch the serpents that sting the body
politic, and the vultures that hasten to the prey. The welfare of a nation is
made up of the welfare of the individuals that compose it. And if we would
promote the welfare of our Country, we must carry these blessings to the hearts
and homes of the outcast and neglected classes.

They will not seek the good, because they are like children, they cannot
appreciate it. The uplifting of a people starts from no inward promptings.
It always comes from extraneous sources. There is no authentic example of
a tribe or nation which has risen from primitive ignorance or barbarism into
civilization by an indigenous inclination. Examples occur in history of indi-
viduals who have struggled to rise above their environment of earthliness—
like Milton’s account of the creation of the king of beasts :

Now half appears
The tawny lion, pawing to get free
His hinder parts : then springs, as broke from bonds,
And rampant shakes his brinded mane.

These are kings of men who have imparted the magnetism of their own inspi-
ration to a few contemporaries, whose united exertions have propelled their
people along the ascent. But these instances of success are very few in com-
parison with the hosts that fill the ranks of stupidity and barbarism, destitute
of any aims or aspirattons.

The notion seems to be widely diffused that the people who do not avail
themselves of opportunities of progress and culture, are not worth saving. It
is the voice ot might against weakness, often thoughtlessly uttered, and often
with secret congratulations on one’s own success in the struggle for life and

distinction. ~The current flows resistlessly onward : let him swim who can, the

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 57

rest go under. It is a hard-hearted and cruel dictum. It consigns every man
who begins to faint and needs a little help to despair and death. It is the
heathen custom modified, which got rid of aged parents with the least trouble—
polished into the cool Platonic disposal of helpless poverty, by allowing it to
perish as soon as possible. This notion is popularin certain influential circles,
and is reflected by the public press. If it should finally prevail, there would
remain but little hope for not only the aborigines, but also for the depressed
and exposed classes of any other race. The retributions that have fallen upon
royal tyrants shall descend again upon republican society when it rules in the
interests of property and commerce, regardless of the actual producers and
laborers.

Public opinion on the management of the Indians needs rectifying. Success
and especially the means often used to gain it, have a tendency to harden the
heart. Scientific speculations about the origin of tle human race, and cognate
topics, are sensibly coloring the views of many, and rebuilding the old barriers
between races which commerce and christianity were breaking down. Greed
lusts after the Indian’s lands, and pretexts are found for dispossessing him.
The army is called upon to suppress outbreaks thereby created, and demands the
oversight in the peace which it is required to restore by war. Politicians are
ready to advocate any side which is likely to become popular. But I have
great faith in the final verdict of the American people, when once informed of
the facts in their just relations. And I do not, therefore, despair of the cause
I am advocating. Let us bestow a glance upon a few of the facts.

The treatment which the Native Races have received from Europeans, dis-
plays a melancholy history of cruelty and cupidity. The Spaniards coveted
the rich lands and the richer mines of the natives of the southern sections of
this Continent, and to obtain them no cruelty was too barbarous. The only
check to their extermination was the religious zeal of the Catholic missionaries.
“Americans” followed on the northern track; and the history of their progress
is written in blood and flame, before which the Native Tribes have almost
disappeared. Further north, the British and Russian fur-hunters have pursued
a less inhuman policy, and employed the natives to track and trap the fur-bear.
ing animals, on landandsea. Their lives were spared; but greed sought them
in as deadly and more cruel forms by the introduction of poisonous intoxicants,
and the vices and diseases of acast-oft civilization. These combined influences
have carried off vast numbers of the native population on the islands and along
the shores of the northern section of the Continent. The statement of these
facts will bear a far deeper coloring. Let it be considered in the light of our
modern advantages and our increasing sense of responsibility to promote the
welfare of our fellow creatures. My plan for Alaska will thus gain a more
candid hearing, and a fairer judgment at the bar of conscience and in the do-
main of liberal sentiment.

That any portion of the human race is incapable of improvement rests upon
hypothesis alone, which authentic history dispels. It is, however, frequently
urged that there are barbarous races that are irreclaimable. rst. Because

58 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

they have dwelt so long on the borders of civilization without acquiring its spirit
or yielding to its influences. Secondly. It is urged to support the theory of De-
velopment, a leading ‘‘axiom” of which is “‘the survival of the fittest.” If,
however, they only survive, who are best adapted to maintain the “ struggle
for life” against the adversities of foes and climate, then the Alaskans belong
to the Elect, for they have maintained the struggle through the unrecorded
ayes. Let the counter fact of their decrease since the advent of Caucasians
be prudently mentioned by white men, who have been their destroyers by intro-
ducing their own elements of decay and dissolution.

Suppose a community of ‘‘ whites” who had survived the ‘‘ struggle for life”
for generations, were for the first time tempted to use intoxicating liquors,
mixed with poisonous and maddening drugs,—would their power of resistance
be equal to the emergency? Have ‘‘whites” given up drunkenness ?

Diseases introduced by white men have been very destructive among the
primitive races. Have they been less so among the whites? The fact that
they succumb in the deadly struggle is no more damaging to them than to their
superiors. Let it be noted that we have been struggling for centuries against
these evils without having yet extinguished them. If we ask the Tlinkets to
bar them out, we demand of them much more than we have ever required of
ourselves.

In what respect are they incapable of maintaining the ‘‘ struggle for life? >
They are a well formed, athletic race, undergoing great hardships, brave and
independent in spirit, ingenious and apt to learn. They have, in short, all the
attributes which are indispensable to insure their civilization and progress.
This is apparent by comparison with other tribes and nations who have risen
in the scale of intelligence. The condition of the Gauls, Teutons and Britons
was no better when the Romans conquered them, than that of the Hydahs and
Tlinkets at the present time. The Britons were barbarians, half naked, cruel,
jgnorant and superstitious. The Picts, their neighbors on the north of the
island, crawled out of their burrows excavated in hill-sides, caught their game,
Sorged themselves with flesh, sent their wives to bring in what was left, then
crawled back into their dens to sleep until hunger drove them forth again.
The Scandinavians as late as the tenth century of the Christian era, lived in
piles of rocks, and were free-booters and pirates, the terror of the western
coasts of Europe. Returning from forays laden with plunder remorselessly tak-
en, and devoting to their blood-stained god the trophies of fiendish fights, they
displayed some of the worst characteristics of savage life.

For centuries prior to this period, there were races in America which had
advanced far beyond the state of barbarism, and who were much more worthy
of the respect and consideration of the enlightened people of the Old World
than any portion or all of Europe north of the Alps, during that early period.
The primitive races which the Spaniards found in Central America and Mexico
had flourished through centuries, going back probably beyond the time of the
Roman conquests. They could have conveyed a superior civilization to three-
fourths of the continent of Europe, and only surpassed in favored localities
upon the coasts of the Mediterranean Sea, by the Greek and Roman culture,

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 59

The wonder 1s, that the primitive American civilization ever reached the
height it did in the lack of two chief instruments of progress, the use of iron
and the arts of alphabetical writing—the one to shape and to hold the staples
and materials, which skilled labor proves to be serviceable; the other to record
the advancement of knowledge, and to preserve the items and details of inven-
tion and discovery. Theabsence of these two instruments from Europe would
have thrown a pall over that continent as dark as that which enveloped the
aboriginal tribes of North America. Indeed, all Europe within the period of
authentic history, was repeatedly plunged into barbarism. Nota ray of light
shone from within. The torch of knowledge, the altar-fires of faith, the head-
lights of culture, were brought from without, kindled and replenished by
foreign hands, until by slow and painful processes Europe learned to keep what
had been given, and to multiply her lights into the illumination of modern
society.

Similar results might have been reached on this continent, if an ocean of
fire had rolled between the Old World and the New, to keep off the boasted
civilization of Europe. Bancroft (Native Races, Vol. I) says, ‘‘Left alone, the
nations of America might have unfolded into as bright a civilization as that of
Europe. They were already well advanced and still rapidly advancing towards
it when they were so mercilessly stricken down.” It is impossible to conjecture
what those races might have become, if their rights had been respected, or If
they had had the power to enforce respect. But it is not difficult to conclude
that if they had been treated, not as wild beasts to be exterminated, but as
fellow creatures to be helped, and to confer benefits in return, many of them
would have been developed into a manhood reflecting credit upon the race,
and into a culture worthy of the age.

It is not visionary to suppose that if the European civilization had coalesceq
with the Tolto-Aztec on this Continent, the combination would have benetitted
both by the one exchanging with the other its best and most peculiar qualities ;
and thus the relics and memorials of pre-historic ages in the New World, de-
veloped out of its own original stock, and joining in the march of human

progress, would have been preserved to the eternal honor of the ‘superior i

ee

race.

~

This were idle musing, were it not that ‘‘the dream is not alla dream.”
A tribe of Hydahs or Tlinkets coasting along the shores of the Baltic Sea a
thousand years ago, would have been. justified in looking with indifference
upon the state of art among Northern Europeans. Their admiration could
have been excited by one work of art, the sea going vessel, which the Phoeni-
cians had taught the Scandinavians to make a thousand yearssbefore; and by
one metal, which the Tlinkets would have prized above the copper and the
gold in their own mountains. A knowledge of the use of iron before the
advent of the Europeans would have made them tov formidable for any Rus-
sian armament that ever floated along their shores. They reached a certain
degree of advancement long before their country was discovered, and then
paused. In this they resemble the Asiatic civilizations, for instance, the Hin-

60° Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

doo, Chinese and Japanese, which reachcd a dead level, and were thenceforth
transfixed and immovable. The Alaskans never reached the same point in
manual arts, because their staples and materials were less abundant, their soil
and climate less genial, their incentives fewer, their trade was very limited, and
they were destitute of the iron tool and the recording pen.

There are Ethnological reasons* for the supposition that the ancestors of the
Native Races which occupy the coast from the Columbia River to the Aleutian
Isles, came from Japan. Differing in many respects, yet some existing resem-
blances are striking and characteristic. Each shows the same desire for im-
provement, and invites foreign teachers. Although the Japanese excels the
‘‘American” in variety and elaborateness of manufactures, yet the latter par-
takes of the ingenuity and skill of the former, and is anxious to adopt new
styles and customs. This attitude of the people seems to be universal. If
there be an exception it is found among the chiefs, who might be expected to
oppose changes through fear of thereby losing their power. Nevertheless, some
chiefs are fully impressed with the necessity of education in order to save them-
selves and people.

Our plan contemplates both secular and religious training. The opinion is
current, that a religion, in order to find favor in the eyes of the aborigines,
must first meet some of their material requirements. If it is good, it will
clothe them better, and feed them better, for these to them are the chiefest
good in life.

This opinion prevails among persons who take a secular view of all religions,
and give little weight, Or none at all, to the spiritual nature of any religion.
Taking this view of it, religion should be introduced as a measure of state
policy or expediency; for by promoting cleanliness, industry and economy, it
promotes health, plenty and all the comforts of life. Ina similar degree,
the secular influence of religion is sustained by the principles of Political Econ-
omy, and should be introduced and adyocated on this ground, also.

Its introduction cannot be consistently opposed by those who take a material-
istic view of modern progress. It is sometimes confidently asserted that much
of the civilization of this age is materialistic; that a large proportion of the
workers in the manual arts, are materialists; that many engaged in scientific
pursuits, as well as a considerable number of the ‘‘advanced thinkers” in
literature and philosophy, are the disciples of Comte and Spencer and Mill.

We would fain attract their support as the magnet attracts iron, to the scheme
of civilizing the people of Southern Alaska; fur it contemplates the erection
of a visible and palpable structure upon a substantial and permanent foundation
of material good. The countenance of persons who take the most practical
and even utilitarian views is confidently invited upon their own principles to
this plan for civilizing these people; for it promotes the development of the
Country’s Resources, and adds to the Wealth of the Nation, and increases the
numbers of its intelligent defenders, by the very act of training up a numerous

*Vide Bancroft, ‘‘ Native Races:” and Pcwell, in “Smithsonian” Publications.

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 61

class of expert and efficient working men and women—not imported but home-
bred, bound by inextinguishable ties to their native land, and brought up under
its institutions.

We shall omit no element of material growth and transformation; while at
the same time we intend to convey some knowledge of moral and religious
principles of a very practical and influential nature. We may be permitted to
associate these two lines of instruction, not fostering one at the expense of the
other, but steadily and consistently promoting both—inasmuch as we believe
that modern civilization has reached its present elevation by the action and
interaction of the physical and metaphysical.

An appeal to the Supernatural has always been efficacious in gaining control
of ignorant minds. It has often been employed for the basest purposes; who
would forbid its employment for the best? Thereby abstract ideas of morality,
and spiritual ideas of religion, are gradually introduced, become fixed, and
remain forever. The appeal is to the moral nature of man, which though hid-
den and seeming to be extinct, is most real and substantial.

These abstract ideas are the hidden springs of society. They are the reserved
forces which are continually drawn upon in the practical affairs of life. Their
regenerating power keeps society from decay and exhaustion, by supplying the
demands created by the extraordinary pressures and temptations of the times.
Whatever moral support advanced thinkers find in their speculations, it is quite
certain that ordinary men and women require the knowledge of ‘‘ abstract
morality,” and a serious belief in it, in order to pass through life with satisfac-
tion and honor.

And since it can be shown that a supernatural religion is the only religion
that is worth naming as drawing its motives from the unseen world, we propose
to introduce both morality and christianity among the Primitive Races, as
containing the conservative principles upon which modern progress moves and
civilization rests.

We do not, however, propose to train these people after any abstract or
foreign pattern. We have no pet theories to exemplify. We shall meet them
on the lines of their own aptitudes and characteristics, and carry them forward
thereon, to take their place among the skilled producers of our country, and
to swell the ranks of its intelligent and law-abiding citizens.

This scheme is neither chimerical nor impracticable. The success which has
followed educational efforts among native tribes in British Columbia, warrant
our belief that with some variation in aim and management, we shall not fail.
Our school among the Stahkeens at Fort Wrangel, carried on more than two
years and still continuing, is also an earnest of complete success, as well as
expanding usefulness. Many of the children have already learned to read and
write. A very marked improvement is noticeable in dress, manners and mor-
“ality. The influence of the teachers is also manife-t among the Stahkeen
people at Fort Wrangel; a large majority of them having forsaken their ancient
mode of life, and having conformed to the customs of white people. They
have given up sorcery and their belief in polytheism; and they display a

62 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

morality which will compare very favorably with that of the ‘‘whites” by whom
they are surrounded. They have also in a single year doubled the amount of
land which they cultivate. A careful observation of them under circumstances
very epportune for arriving at correct conclusions, bears evidence to the depth
and sincerity of their desire to adjust themselves to the new order of things
which they discover to be inevitable, and to which they expect to conform.

This attitude of the people, which is maintained with almost perfect unani-
mity, finds an illustration in the existing desire for schools and churches. It
is a remarkable fact that the Hydahs in the Prince of Wales Archipelago, and
the Tlinkets occupying the country several hundred miles west of 54° 40’ the
boundary line, without a single exception, concur in the same earnest request,
In support of this fact, I cite the testimony of Gen. Howard in his published
Reports; Hon. J. G. Swan, U. S. Commissioner, Commander Beardslee, U.
S. Navy, and a number of the old intelligent residents of the Territory.

This petition is not only unanimous, but importunate, It is expressed on all]
occasions of formal conference with ‘‘the whites.” The writer recalls nothing
in his interviews with these people, which impressed him more than the hungry
and searching look which emphasized their request for teachers. Theirs is not
therefore, a posture of stolid apathy, which needs to be stimulated into activity.
The occasion for ‘‘artifice or argument” is passed. Vaguely, but certainly,
they see that the ‘‘whites” possess powers which they do not—advantages
which they covet—and which they believe may be acquired by themselves.

Let us not be too critical. Admitting that they have no adequate views of
the benefits of education, we must allow that they have an eminently practical
estimate; and in this respect, no doubt, equal to the average found among
“the whites’’—with this difference, that they long for a good, hitherto beyond
their reach, but which is now their only means of preservation.

Hence their cry for it comes up from the depths of their convictions, like
the ground-swell of their own seas. It is evoked by the necessities of their
situation, which demand of them the abolition of the old, and the adoption of
the new. It is the cry of the crew whose craft is nearing the breakers, or
drifting helplessly out to sea. We who stand on the shore or on the heights
above them, cannot regard their fate with indifference, neither should their cry
for light be as the sigh of the wind in our ears, under the impression that they
know not the value of the light, nor understand what things it reveals. How
much more than they do we comprehend the value of knowledge? We are
only a few steps in advance of them. That cry sweeping the shores of Alaska,
and waking the echoes of its mountains, is like the cry that crossed the Aegcan
Sea, and smote the ear of Saul of Tarsus. 4

‘3

Notwithstanding the absence of precedent or hint of the self- initiated ascent
of nation or tribe from chaos to cosmos—from primitive ignorance to civiliza-
tion; yet here we have an illustration of some instinct or inward prompting
toward a higher state. Other instances of like nature have occurred. The
Nez Perces sent a delegation across the Continent from the unexplored wilds
of northern Idaho, asking for light. That people had seen the benefits of

30%

&

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. | 63

civilization toa very limited extent only; and a few leaders among them braved
the perils of the trackless wilderness in the attempt to secure the superior good.
But now we see an entire people, the inhabitants of the labyrinthine archipel-
agoes and continental shores of Southern Alaska, lifting up their voices and
stretching forth their hands for help.

It belongs to this great and powerful nation, which is the acknowledged
supporter of the rights of man, to extend the blessings of civilization to the
aborigines of the continental territories which have fallen within our bounda-
ries. Once they might be counted by millions. Their diminution has provided
room for our countrymen. And yet had they been guided to lay hold of the
elements of civilized life, and their fingers taught to mould and manipulate
them, the much vexed Indian Question had been long settled, and quiet and
prosperous communities would have added to the national wealth, reflected
credit upon national statesmanship, and forestalled forever the dishonor which
now stains our annals in consequence of the utterly unjust and rapacious treat-
ment of these ignorant and depressed people.

Fair proofs and an abundance of them, altogether producing a tide of eyidence
overwhelming all dissent, are at hand. But unfortunately in the dust and din
which rise in the discussion of a vexed question, the judgments of many are so
confused that they are incapable of forming a correct conclusion. Nevertheles
these proofs are derived from palpable and visible data, showing the materia /
advancement of the Indians, who have been left to prosecute the simpler arts
of civilized life without the disturbances and agitations created by the threats
and intrusions of lawless ‘‘white” men.

Among these proofs I cite a few within the circle of my personal knowledge,
which are as incontrovertible as that the harvests, which are just being reaped,
are the outcome of foregoing tillage. I refer with confidence to the Indians o
the Warm Springs Reservation; and remind you of the loyalty, courage, and
skill of the band of scouts formed among them, who were the rea
conquerors in the Modoc War. Their gardens, farms and dwellings bea
witness to their capacity for progress and self-support. They illustrate two
great principles in Political Economy. They are both producers and con-
sumers.

I also designate the Yakima Tribes, who have made the most substantia
improvement, which I affirm on the same visible and palpable grounds. This
conclusion would not be doubted if white men had been content simply to le
the Yakimas alone.

A similar confusion is spread over the present condition and prospects of the
Nez Perces. Yet a creditable advancement is being made among them, which
needs only tranquility and fair treatment in order to produce results which wil
be satisfactory to the most exacting, as they are now in a very high degree
satisfactory to all reasonable people.

One more illustration must suffice. Only a few years have passed since the

appointment of suitable teachers among the Puyallup Indians, and we have since
stationed a missionary among them. Formerly their ignorance and thriftless-

64 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

ness excited only contempt or hostility among the whites. They, like other
Indians, would not work, except when hunger compelled them. A great
change has taken place. Now the men are continously employed in various
departments ; and the farmers and hop-raisers in the valley testify that they are
a better dependence than the ordinary run of so-called white laborers. The
women are useful in kitchen and laundry work ; and the children are as busily
employed as the boys and girls of white settlers. Gen. J. W. Sprague, Sup-
erintendent of. the Northern Pacific Railroad, formerly skeptical concerning the
improvement of Indians in general, takes pleasure in stating the results of his
own observations on this point. In constructing the railroad through the
Puyallup Valley, he favored the employment of these Indians and watched
their habits. The uniform testimony of thé overseers was without any equivo-
cation, delivered in favor of the Indian workmen, in points of diligence,
promptness, and endurance. They justly attributed their ability to do hard-
work to their temperate habits. But I remember when they were a drunken
set, besotted by brutalized ‘‘white” men. At the camps and mills, in fishing
and on their own farms, or in the fields of others, they are as usefully employed as
any class of white men in the same circumstances, and their habits of industry
and average morality will bear comparison with that of any class in the country.
All this has been brought about by two or three causes: first, fundamental. .
Instruction in common school branches, in moral and religious duty, and in
the most useful manual arts. Second, awxz/iary. The Government’s just and
humane policy culminating in the land endowment, a homestead for each fam-
ily, thereby encouraging thrift, economy, and provision for the future, with the
near prospect of citizenship.

Here is the solution of the vexed Indian Question. It is expressed in a few
words, but they contain all that is vital, like the oxygen in the air we breathe.
This plan, faithfully executed, provides a safe, speedy, adequate and economical
remedy for all the difficulties, and removes them out of the way forever. Let
intelligent and benevolent men and women study it, and then make their influ-
ence felt in supporting it: Other once-promising plans for managing the
aborigines have been tried, and without due effect. An opportunity unem-
barassed by many of the occasions which create disturbances and provoke
hostilities in the States, now offers itself in Alaska.

May we not ask for the introduction of the new plan, which will conserve
all interests, and maintain the national honor? It is very simple. It provides
first of all for the introduction of law, and courts to execute it. And in this
provision every inhabitant of Alaska should be treated with equal justice and
held equally amenable. This will exact upon the administrators of the law a
due regard for equal rights, in the admirable language of the Constitution of
the United States, without regard to race or color, or previous condition of
servitude, The faithful execution of this simple provision will destroy the most
fruitful source of difficulties between white settlers and the Indians.

The sense of wrong embittered by injustice, without hope of legal redress,
in the Indian mind, and emboldening the ‘‘white” transgressor, has led to
many an Indian outbreak, and expensive and bloody war. The facts upon

A Letter addressed to President Hayes. 65

which these conclusions are based are indisputable, and so notorious as to need
no rehearsal here. Since, however, this policy has never succeeded, we are
justified in the adoption of another and more promising expedient.

The locality is highly favorable for it. This distant Territory presents very
few attractions to men of business, and none to ‘‘white” settlers. The ‘‘whites”
who dwell there, or make voyages thither, or transact business with them, all
concur in asking for the introduction of municipal regulations, and with one
voice demand that all classes of inhabitants shall be held amenable to the same
law, and that they shall be treated with the same justice and equity.

Another provision for the welfare of the future generations of Alaska, should
no longer be neglected by the Government. We refer to education in common
schools. No defense of primary education is needed at this day for the ‘‘white”’
children of fhe United States. Can any sound reason for withholding it from
other children of our country be given? We assume that the educational policy
of the United States rests upon an impregnable basis, and hence infer that the
expediency of its introduction in Alaska will not be seriously disputed. The
capabilities of the native Alaskans justify this provision for their enlightenment.
They petition for it with some just appreciation of the benefit, with earnest
and persistent desire, and with entire unanimity.

The suggestion of this provision is sustained by a condition of popular sen-
timent unparallelled in any other part of our country. The parties just referred
to, as sustaining the application of the before mentioned provision, are equally
as favorable to the introduction of schools and churches among the natives;
and their unanimity in the advocacy of this provision is quite as great, if not
as earnest.

There lies before me the expression of these opinions in answer to a series of
questions addressed to leading men of various pursuits, who are residents of
Alaska, or acquainted with its condition, and its wants; and their views are
reflected in many places in this Report, and concentrated in the two provisions
above mentioned.

But there remains another consideration. The Territory of Alaska is neither
bankrupt nor poverty-stricken. It costs nothing worthy of naming, to sustain
our sovereignty over it. Its inhabitants receive no stipends. Its natives re-
ceive no annuities. And yet it pays into the United States Treasury over three
hundred thousand dollars ($300,000) per annum, a gross sum of more than
four millions of dollars (4,000,000), since its purchase.

We humbly ask for the appropriation of a very small portion of the annual
income derived from Alaska, in order to extend the reign of just and equitablel
laws over all its communities, and to visit its various families with the benign
influences of modern civilization.

If these consummate facts are without avail, no eloquence can strengthen our
appeal; no reasoning can lend it conviction ; no philanthropy can incline or
persuade. We confidently commit the case to the judgment and conscience of

the American people, in the august capacity of the Government of the United
States.

Submitted, with the highest respect, by your fellow citizen,
PORTLAND, OREGON, Ay LINDSEY:

66 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

REPORT ON ALASKA.—NO. VI.

EXPLANATORY.

The following isa part of the Executive Committee’s Report. made to the Synod of the Col-
umbia, at its last meeting, Oct. 1880. It belongs here. in the historical order of events.

The work of Christian civilization among Aborigines within the bounds o
the Synod, still engages the care and oversight of the Committee.

The suspension of our work at Sitka naturally invited the intrusion ot other

denominations into that field. The situation became critical. No missionary
was found at the East. On the recommendation of J. V. Milligan, who was a
classmate of Rev. G. W. Lyons, the Sitka mission was tendered to the latter
gentleman, then in California, and whose work there was commended by the
Rev. T. Frazer. About the same time, the school-teacher Miss Austin, was
commissioned by the Board.

The Rev. G. W. Lyons went on in April, and spent a month with the Rev.
S. H. Young, acquiring a store of information, derived from the experience of
our Missienary at Fort Wrangel. They circumnavigated Prince of Wales Island,
the largest of the Alexander group. They were hospitably received by the
natives, who expressed the earnest desire for teachers and missionaries, — thus
confirming the unanimity elsewhere maintained in petitions for these institutions.

The quarters occupied by our Sitka mission are held by no secure tenure.
The oral permission of the naval Commander obtained admittance, and upon
that rests the present occupancy. It would be wise to purchase the old hos-
pital and adjacent grounds. The building is large, and can be made very
serviceable, and the grounds are already used for gardens. Meanwhile we
should be put in possession by a written order from the Government. We
‘hear from trustworthy sources, that both the teacher and missionary are
‘ndustriously employed. They began under very unfavorable circumstan-ces,
and the school still lacks facilities. One of my informants expressed his
surprise in decided terms, at the attempt of the great Presbyterian Church
to introduce itself with such scant outfit and such miserly supplies. And we
add, that the occasions for the surprise are well-founded.

There is a class of the population of Sitka, for whom some provision of edu-
cation should be made. I refer to the children of Russians and half-breeds,_
A school was organized for them more then a year ago. Commander Beards-
lee of the U. S. S. Jamestown, and Mrs. Beardslee, his wife, have taken an
active part in this school. Their removal from Sitka leaves the school in dan-
ger of being disbanded. If it be possible to find a trust-worthy and capable
manager at Sitka, for this school, it would be better for us to leave it in such
hands at present, and until our Mission can be reinforced.

Rey. S. H. Young has explored the coast from the southern extremity of
Alaska to Cross Seund and Chilkat river, which are situated northward of
Sitka. He has carefully taken the census of the tribes and villages. By his
figures, the estimates of population are still too large. These have been reduced

Report to the Synod of the Columbia, 1881, 67

from time to time to insignificant numbers, compared with the vastness of the
Territory. The scarcity of population shows still more clearly, the risk of giv-
ing too much notoriety to the claims of that field. It is believed that the Tlin-
ket tribes are increasing in population, and that they are not excelled by any
native tribes, in physical vigor or intellectual capacity, and equaled only by the
Hydahs of Prince of Wales Island, among whom also we intend to establish a
mission.

But the more pressing need at present, is the opening among the Chilkats.
They are the most numerous of the Tlinket tribes. Mr. Young has gone among
them to meet an emergency, and to make arrangements for introducing our
work as soon as a missionary can be found to take possession, The Chilkat
tribe is l-cated at the head of Lynn canal, on a river which penetrates into re
gions unexplored, and inhabited by people of the Tinneh stock. A mission
among the Hoonyas should be undertaken. This tribe consists of about 800
souls almost free from ‘“‘white” vices or diseases, and very desirous to receive
instruction and adopt the customs of civilized life. »

We see no reason for changing our recommendations pertaining to the dis-
tribution of Missions. They are now in operation at Wrangel and Sitka.
Other localities selected, are among the Chilkats, another among the Hoon-
yas, and the fifth among the Hydas.

By the favor of Providence, I was enabled to present the cause of the In-
dians in an unembarrassed and familiar manner to President Hayes. After my
first interview, I addressed to him a letter on the subject of ‘“The Civilization
of the Native Alaskans.”* It has been circulated to a limited extent. It con-
tains a plea for the education and salvation of the aborigines of the whole
country. The published Minutes of the Synod of Columbia, I also placed in
his hands; and I have the satisfaction of knowing that his views and ours on;
essential points are identical, and that he expressed them in a public speech at
Forest Grove. I spent the day with the President, and am confident of his
hearty support in the effort to secure Congressional appropriation for schols in
Alaska. I was not prepared to press a petition for the return of Joseph’s Band
to the reservation in Idaho, for the single reason that they would not be safe
from outrages which would be inflicted in retaliation for real on fancied griev-
ances, during the Nez Perce outbreak.

I will only add that it is high time for this great nation to show mercy to
the aborigines whom they are driving to despair and madness, and to introduce
a tranquilizing and generous policy. Whatever any citizen or association can
do to promote this change should be done without delay; and I therefore earn-
stly invoke the aid of the brethren that our influence may reach men in power
in a direct course, and under the signal favor of Divine Providence.

*This Letter forms No. V, which precedes this.

68 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

APPENDIX TO NO. VI.

Reasons for Locating an Industrial Home and School for Boys at Fort Wrangel
and Sitka,

1. The McFarland Industrial Home for Girls is situated at Fort Wrangel.
It has already twenty-eight inmates, the support of each being guaranteed by a
separate ladies’ society. or by individuals, so long as she shall remain in the
Home. These girls are being instructed in household arts, as well as the
principles of a common education. They will be fitted to be the wives of
intelligent, christian men. They should not leave the Home until they are
honorably and fitly married. But it will be very difficult to find suitable hus-
bands for them, unless we have also a training school for Indian boys. And
to marry them to men beneath them, in point of education or morality, would
tend to defeat the very purpose for which the Home was founded, and plunge
them back into barbarism and misery. The boys’ school, located at Sitka, can-
not supply the place of one at Fort Wrangel. The two places are a hundred
and sixty miles apart, communication is infrequent, and the voyage by canoe
difficult. The inmates of the two institutions cannot be brought together
conveniently; and there would remain only the alternatives of building another
girls’ industrial home at Sitka and another boys’ training school at Fort Wran-
gel—or compelling our educated and christianized young men and women to
marry inferior and profligate companions. Were a boys’ school to be founded
at Fort Wrangel, the two institutions would be supplementary to each other ;
and thus, in due time, christian homes would be established.

2. Fort Wrangel is the gathering point for many of the tribes. The
Indians in their voyages up and down the coast find this, at present, the most
convenient place for rest and trade. At times, every tribe in the archipelago
is represented there. In this way, the McFarland Home thus numbers among
its inmates girls of the Stahkeen, Sitka, Chilcat, Auk, Takoo, Hanega, Ton-
gas, Hydah and Simpsian tribes. The boys’ school, located at Sitka, will
gather into its fold representatives of some of these tribes. The aim of these
schools is to provide skilled and educated workmen who can instruct the various
tribes in the mechanical arts, as well as in the elements of a christian education.
Every young man should go forth from the institution to his ows ¢rzde, fitted
to be a teacher in the full sense of that word; and thus the whole archipelago
and adjacent mainland be enlightened and civilized. On account of its loca-
tion and the influence of its missions, Fort Wiangel can gather into an institu-
tion of this class, more tribes than any other locality.

3. The Indians of Fort Wrangel, by reason of their superior advancement.
would respond to the call for students of such aschool, and support it steadily.

4. There is, near Fort Wrangel, a tract of three hundred acres of tillable
land already cultivated, in part. This can be purchased very cheap, and cul-
tivated by the boys of the school, and enough stock and vegetables raised to
supply both institutions. Thus the boys can be taught agriculture, and the
expenses of the school met in part at the same time. An available tract of
land, for the same purpose, can doubtless be found near Sitka.

Present Condition of the Work, May 1, 188r. 69

5. The superior organization of the Fort Wrangel mission, its strong force
and harmony, would give assurance of success to sucha school. The mission-
aries now at Fort Wrangel could take charge of the training school for boys,
and their experience would be very valuable.

6. The government buildings at Sitka offer great 1uducements to locate a
training school there. The Russian Hospital, a large building, and the adjacent
grounds, which are extensive, have been assigned to us for this purpose. Both
the Sitka and the Wrangel schools for boys must be fitted up for the purposes
of instruction outlined in the preceding Reports, and the necessary expenses
for these purposes ought to be provided by the Government without delay.
Our plan contemplates the co-education of the sexes to a certain extent. The
practicability of it is fairly illustrated in the school at Forest Grove, Oregon,
in which Indian children are gathered from various tribes, some of them from
Alaska. With its origin and progress the writer is familiar. Its progress is
very satisfactory, and its prospects are of the most promising nature. This
school and the one at Carlisle Barracks, both started since the earlicr Sketches
in this pamphlet were written, are complete demonstrations of the positions
maintained herein. We earnestly, call the attention of philanthropic people,
to these several positions.

REPORTS ON ALASKA.—NO. VII.
Present Condition of the Work, May 1, 1881.

The missionaries in Alaska are much cheered by the immediate prospect of
accessions to their ranks. Rev. S. Hall Yuung of Fort Wrangel, has within the
last two years done a very laborious and successful work of exploration and pre-
paration for the establishment of missions throughout the whole of south-
eastern Alaska. He has visited every tribe, village and almost every fishing
camp in that region, taking the census, and recording the condition of each
point, noting its location and natural advantages, conferring with the chiefs
and preaching the Gospel to the people, and reporting all the facts to the
Board necessary to their guidance in locating missions. He carefully weighed
the claims of each point, in order that the most important should be occupied
first. ° He is able to bear unqualified testimony to the accuracy of the Reports
of Dr. Lindsley, who visited this Territory in 1879, under the commission of
the Board of Home Missions, and to the soundness of views therein expressed.

In the Fall of 1879 Mr. Young visited tbe tribes in the northern part of the
archipelago, and recommended that the Chilcats, the largest and most impor-
tant of these tribes, be supplied with a missionary as soon as possible. The
Home Board has shown its confidence in his judgment by adopting his recom-
mendations in each case. A missionary was commissioned for Chilcat in the
Summer of 1880, but was diverted to another field. In June of that year Mr.

70 Sketches of an LExcurston to Southern Alaska.

Young fitted out, and sent to that tribe as missionary teacher, Mrs. Sarah
Dickinson, a native of the Tongas tribe—speaking the same language—who
had been educated at the Fort Wrangel mission. The Board confirmed her
commission, and she has been laboring very. successfully ever since—the
Chilcats welcoming her warmly, and continuing to send their children to
her school.

Last August Mr. Young again visited these Northern tribes, spending some
time among the Chilcats. He carefully studied the condition of each of the
four villages of that tribe, and selected a point on a beautiful harbor, accessible
to all, upon good farming land, and where the Nerthwest Trading Company
has its post, as the site for a mission and a new Indian town. He selected a
site for a church, and made arrangements with the Company, who had the
lumber on the ground, to build a comfortable house for church and school.
This the Company agreed to put up immediately. This building is now up
and ready for occupancy. The head men of all these villages pledged them-
selves to obey the coming missionary, to build a new town of ‘‘white man’s
houses,” and to support the school. Thus the mission has long been located,
and all is in readiness for the missionary. Rev. Eugene S. Willard, who goes
up by the June steamer to take charge of that mission, will find a people
eagerly expecting him, and an open door for the entrance of Christian
civilization.

In the Spring of 1880, Mr. Young, accompanied by the Rev. G. W. Lyons,
the newly appointed missionary to Sitka, made the tour of the Prince of Wales
group of Islands. He visited all the tribes in that region, taking the census
and collecting information as before. He located a mission in Cordova Bay,
selecting a site for another new mission town ata point accessible by four
Hydah villages, where there was a good water-power, plenty of valuable
timber, a good anchorage, and ground capable of cultivation. He obtained
pledges from the head men of all these villages that they would desert their
present Indian towns, and build a new town on the site selected. He recom-
mended to the Board that this mission be started upon what is known as the
Metlakatlah plan: first a sawmill, which will soon pay for itself—the Indians
readily buying the lumber—the church and school house built by native work-
men properly directed, then a town of neat and commodious houses, built and
filled by a population which subscribes to the laws, and conforms to the plans
of the settlement. The Board adopted Mr. Young’s recommendations, and
now that field is outlined, and ready for a suitable manager to take charge of
what can be made in a few years an entirely self-supporting plantation. The
Northwest Trading Company has agreed to erect a post at the site chosen, and
toput a man in charge who is fully in sympathy with our plans. Thus the four
central points of Fort Wrangel, Sitka, Chilcat, and Hydah will all be sup-
plied, and will be working as the nuclei for the gathering together and
evangelization of the whole archipelago.

In accordance with the plans outlined in the preceding pages, Mr. Young
. recommends the Hoonyahs, the large and promising tribe situated on Cross
Sound, as the next tribe to be evangelized, either by native teachers educated

Missions under the Presbytery of Oregon. ads

in the other missions, or by teachers sent out by the Board. He also visited
the new mining town of Harrisburg, locating and recording a site for a church
and school house, in case that proves to be a successful mining region. Thus
all the information necessary to intelligent action, in locating missions and
advancing the cause of education in that promising region, is already collected,
and the next step is to enter and occupy.

CONCLUSION.

The foregoing ‘‘ Sketches” show what we are doing, and attempting, for
the enlightenment of Alaska. ‘They provide materials towards a complete
history, yet to be written, and they are accurate. There are other sources of
information, in manuscripts and occasional publications in newspapers, such
as letters written prior to 1877, the original overture to the General Assembly
of that year, the official statement of the origin of this work, issuea by the
Presbytery of Oregon, together with some data contained in official communi-
cations, made to the Government of the United States.

In compliance with requests of persons cognizant with the facts, the ‘‘official
statement” above cited, is here inserted. In the order of time, it should have
been placed at the beginning. But the suggestions for its publication were not
made until the first Reports were passing through the press. It was printed in
the Reeord of Aug., 1878, and in the Official Report on Alaska, made by
Hon. Wm. Governeur Morris, Special Agent of United States Treasurery De-
partment, published by order of Congress. That Report abounds in valuably
information; but,unfcrtunately, it is out of print.

Missions Under the Presbytery of Oregon.

At the meeting of the Presbytery of Oregon, in session at Astoria, April 3,
1878, it was ordered that a committee of three be appointed to draw up a min-
ute embracing the fac¢s in connection with the history of tbe development of
missions under the care of the presbytery, having special reference to the work
in Alaska ; and that the same be forwarded to the Secretaries of the Board of
Home Missions. Said minute, when approved by presbytery, to be engrossed
on the records.

In accordance with the foregoing, the following is an official statement:

In the year 1869, when Secretary Seward was returning from his visit to
Alaska, Rev. A. L. Lindsley, D. D., of the First Presbyterian Church of
Portland. Oreg., met him at Victoria, and by careful enquiry gained much in-
formation concerning the social, moral, and religious condition of the resident
Indian tribes.

72 Sketches of an Excursion to Southern Alaska.

From the time of this interview Dr. Lindsley made persistent efforts to
secure the establishing of evangelical missions among this neglected people.
Frequent interviews were held with government officers and officials, in order
to secure protection for teachers and schools. In 1872 General Canby expressed
a favorable opinion of the proposed work, and promised his influence in secur-
ing government aid. In 1875 General O. O. Howard rendered valuable assist-
ance, and by co-operation with Dr. Lindsley urged the matter before public
attention by newspaper articles and much correspondence. The Boards of the
church were importuned, but found no one to undertake this work. An over-
ture was carefully prepared and sent up to the Assembly of 1877, in which the
interests of this mission field were urged upon the attention of this body, but
through the advice of ‘‘friends” it failed to come formally before the Assembly,
and so proved abortive. Up to this time failure seemed to attend every effort,
although ‘‘the appeals which had come from civilians, military officers, and
the aborigines were” very urgent.

In the spring of 1877, the Board of Foreign Missions commissioned Mr. J.
C. Mallory, jr., for the work among the Nez Perce Indians of Idaho, but that
field was supplied when Mr. Mallory reached Portland. This seemed a provi-
dential opening of the way for beginning active work in Alaska. In May, at
Dr. Lindsley’s expense, Mr. Mallory was furnished with necessary means to
enter the field at once, explore the ground, and take charge of a small school
already opened at Fort Wrangel. He visited Sitka and Fort Wrangel and
the intervening regions, and very industriously prosecuted the work. He as-
sumed the responsibility of the school, and employed Philip Mackay, a native
convert, to assist. The work was progressing encouragingly when Mr. Mal-
lory, having accepted a government appointment in Arizona, was obliged to
leave the ground. Mrs. McFarland, a member of the First Presbyterian
church of Portland, u woman of “large ‘and successful experience in frontier
work,” was secured to fill the vacancy; and she carried on the work without
serious interruption. On the eve of Mrs. McFarland’s departure for Alaska,
Dr. Sheldon Jackson, having arrived at Portland on a visit, and being desir-
ous of seeing the regions beyond, acted as an escort, going up and returning
by the same trip of the mail steamer. Under Mrs. McFarland’s supervision
the school became very prosperous. Ina short time it doubled in numbers;
larger accommodations were necessary, and the success of the mission proven.
Up to October 22, 1877, about $600 of necessary expenses had been incurred
in assuming the payment of salaries, house rents, school furniture, and fitting
out the parties engaged in the work—all of which was undertaken by individ-
ual enterprise, and without the aid of the Boards of the church, the pastor of
the Presbyterian church at Portland assuming the entire responsibility.

At this point, when the enterprise was established, the Board of Home
Missions assumed the charge and the money expended.

_ The committee cannot refrain from calling the attention of the secretaries of
the board to a quotation which appeared in the Presbyterian Monthiy Record
of December, 1877 (top of page 356), by which it appears to the public an

Missions under the Presbytery of Oregon. 73

easy thing ‘‘to pass on to Alaska and locate a mission at Fort Wrangel.” In
the cause of justice to all parties concerned, two things ought not to be over-
looked: First, the mission was already Zocated at Fort Wrangel when the above-
mentioned passing on took place; and, second, the /oca¢ing of this mission is
the result of several years of weary watching and waiting, amid persistent
effort, fervent prayers, and a strength of faith that was manifest in no small

amount of expended dollars and cents.
Ee Ne SCONDIT:

Chairman of Committee and Stated Clerk.

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