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Established 1832.
WILLIAM C. LOISTG.

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periodically and can be had on application.

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SKETCH OF MADEIRA.

LONDON:
GEORGE WOODFALL AND SON,

ANGEL COURT, SKINNF.R STREET.

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From o Sketch by Lady Susan lemon Harcuurl.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STEEET.

1851.

A SKETCH

OF

MADEIRA;

CONTAINING

INFORMATION FOR THE TRAVELLER, OR INVALID VISITOR.

By EDWAED VERNON HARCOURT, Esq.

• Oil ! had we some bright little isle of our own,
In a blue summer ocean, far off and pione,
Where a leaf never dies in the still-blooming bowers,
And the bee banquets on through a whole year of flowers ;

Where the sun loves to pause

With so fond a delay,

That night only draws

A thin veil o'er the day ;
Where simply to feel that we breathe, that we live,
Is worth the best joy that life elsewhere can give.

Our life should resemble a long day of light,

And our death come on holy and calm as the night."

Moore.

WITH MAI'S AND VIKWS.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1851.

TO

HARRIET COUNTESS OF SHEFFIELD,

THIS MEMORIAL

OF THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND VISITED BY HER IN 1848,
IS INSCRIBED BY

HER AFFECTIONATE SON-IN-LAW.

A 2

INTRODUCTION

In presenting to the public the following pages, the com-
pilation of which has afforded me amusement during many
leisure hours, I am encouraged to hope they may be accept-
able, rather from the general lack of available information
concerning an island becoming daily of more importance as
a place of sanatory resort, than from any merit of their own.

In rendering my best thanks to the friends who have given
me their assistance, I would more especially acknowledge
the valuable help I have received from Henry Temple, Esq.,
of Madeira.

To my father, who has furnished me with a geological
account of the island, as well as with a notice of its ancient
history, I am much indebted.

My thanks are also due to W. Yarrell, Esq., for his kind-
ness in enabling me to compare the birds of Madeira with
English specimens.

The Civil Governor of Madeira, His Excellency SDr Jose
Silvestre Ribeiro, has, in a most obliging manner, afforded me

Vlll INTRODUCTION.

authentic statistical information. To him Funchal owes its
Asylo de Mendicidade, the lighting of the principal streets of
the town, the bridge in the Ribeiro Secco, the new road along
the sea-coast to the westward, the extension of schools over
the island, as well as many other benevolent and useful
works. His activity in suggesting and carrying out measures
for the relief of the sufferers during the dearth of 1847 was
beyond praise. He has also greatly promoted the industry of
the inhabitants by establishing exhibitions of the fabrics and
manufactures of the island, and instituting an annual fair in
Funchal.

Should these pages prove useful to any that are intending
to visit Madeira, or are otherwise interested in it, the object
of their publication will be accomplished.

E. V. H.

London, 1851.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

4 DESCRIPTION OF MADEIRA.

Page

Approach to Madeira.— Mount Church. — Visit Boat.— Beach.— Funchal.

Prazas. — Buildings. — Turrets. — Scenery. — Daguerreotype.—

Conveyances Burroqueros. — Kides. — Picnics. — The Estreito. —

Jardim. — Curral das Freiras. — Pico Grande.— Short Road to the Cur-
ral. — Expedition to Cape Girao. — Camera de Lobos. — Campanario. —
Expedition to Machico. — Sancta Cruz. — Machico. — Portella. — Serra
de Santo Antonio. — Camacha. — Palheiro. — Afternoon Bides. — Boat-
ing Excursions. — Expedition to S&0 Vincente. — Rabacal. — Calheta.
—Expedition to Santa Anna. — Boa Ventura. — Entroza Pass. — S!!°
Jorge.— Santa Anna.— Pico Ruivo. — Vista of Faial— Metade Valley.
— Ribeiro Frio. — Lamuceiras. — Summary . . . . • 1

CHAPTER II.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

Passports. — Means of Conveyance. — Lodgings.— Servants. — Money. —
Provisions. — Markets. — Clothing. — Horses. — Boats. — Oxen. — Bri-
tish Places of Worship.— English Burial Grounds. — Shrove Tuesday.
— Public Amusements. — Parties 25

CHAPTER III.

ON THE CLIMATE AND VITAL STATISTICS OF MADEIRA.
Climate. — Tables of Temperature — of Rain.— Deluges.— Rainy Season.
— L'Este. — Clouds. — Sunset.— Snow. — Dampness. — Summer — Lon-
gevity.— Population. — Emigration 37

CHAPTER IV.

ON THE HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND MANNERS OF MADEIRA.
Ancient History. — Re-discovery of Madeira. — Cape Bojador. — Colum-
bus.— History of Machim. — Governors appointed. — Allotment of

X CONTENTS.

Page

Land. — Original Government. — Death of Zarco. — Funchal constituted
a City. — Invasion by French Privateers. — Madeira passes into the
Dominion of Spain. — English Possession. — Dom Miguel. — Ecclesias-
tical Affairs. — Bishop appointed. — Ecclesiastical Courts. — Salary of
the Clergy. — Diocese of Funchal. — Monastic Establishments. — Re-
ligious Societies. — Places of Education. — Public Institutions. — Ju-
dicial Division of Madeira. — Civil Governor. — Judges. — Criminals. —
Laws of Inheritance. — Public Revenues. — Government Monopolies.
— Military Affairs. — Roads. — Elections. — Habitations of the Poor.
— Dress. — Beauty. — Manufactures ...... 57

CHAPTER V.

ON THE AGRICULTURE OF MADEIRA.

Introduction of the Vine and Sugar-Cane. — Clearing the Forests. — Culti-
vation of the Sugar-Cane. — Cultivation of the Vine. — Different Soils.
— Best Wine Districts. — Kinds of Wines. — Manufacture of Wine. —
Cultivation of Corn. — Manure. — Threshing. — Grinding Corn. —
Maize. — Flax. — Potatoes. — Yams. — Weeds. — Pine-Trees. — Sheep.
— Cows. — Instruments of Husbandry. — Levadas. — Dearths. — La-
bouring Classes. — Wages. — Relation between Landlord and Tenant . 93

CHAPTER VI.

ON THE NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY OF MADEIRA.

Fire on the South of the Island. — Forests on the North Side. — Dragon
Tree. — Urze. — Palm-Trees. — Opuntia. — Fruits and Vegetables. —
Flowers. — Plants peculiar to Madeira. — Birds. — Reptiles. — Insects.
— Fishes. — Turtles. — Corals. — Medusae. — Luminosity of the Ocean.
— Geology . . Ill

APPENDIX.

I. Sir Hans Sloane's List of Plants. — List of cultivated Plants

growing in the Gardens of the Palmeira and the Deanery . 137

II. List of Birds that breed in Madeira. — List of Stragglers in Madeira 165

III. Tables of Navigation 168

LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS.

View of Funchal from the Sea Frontispiece.

View from Hollway's Cottage To face p. 24

Group of Peasants 56

Bananas 110

English Burial-Ground 136

Map of Madeira End of volume.

Map of Funchal and its Environs End of text.

SKETCH OF MADEIRA.

CHAPTEK I.

A DESCRIPTION OF MADEIRA.

" The wanderer's eye could barely view
The summer heaven's delicious blue;
So wondrous wild, the whole might seem
The scenery of a fairy dream."

Walter Scott.

Approach to Madeira. — Mount Church. — Visit boat. — Beach. — Funchal. —
Prazas. — Buildings. — Turrets. — Scenery. — Daguerreotype. — Convey-
ances Burroqueros. — Rides. — Pic-nics. — The Estreito. — Jardim. —

Curral da3 Freiras. — Pico Grande. — Short road to the Curral. — Expe-
dition to Cape Girao. — Camera de Lobos. — Campanario. — Expedition to
Machico. — Sancta Cruz. — Machico. — Portella. — Serra de Santo Antonio.
— Camacha. — Palheiro. — Afternoon rides. — Boating excursions. — Expe-
dition to S?° Vincente. — Rabaqal. — Calheta. — Expedition to Santa Anna.
— Boa Ventura. — Entroza Pass. — Sa° Jorge. — Santa Anna. — Pico Ruivo.
— Vista of Faial. — Metade Valley. — Ribeiro Frio. — Lamuceiras. —
Summary.

Madeira is situated between the thirty-second and thirty-
third parallels of north latitude, and between the sixteenth
and eighteenth meridians of west longitude ; its extreme
length is about thirty-three miles, and its greatest breadth
about fourteen.

APPROACH TO MADEIRA.

Perhaps no spot on earth is first seen with emotions more
various than this island, according to the different conditions
of feeling under which it is approached. To one, its glowing

B

2 MOUNT CHURCH. ANCHORAGE. [chap. i.

hills and genial air seem to promise prolonged life and re-
stored health ; to another, the colours of hope have faded
from a mind filled with thoughts of the many, cut off in their
prime, that already rest within the bosom of those iron rocks ;
but to persons who view this favoured land without any such
peculiar associations either to cheer or sadden the scene, it
presents, simply as an object to the sight and senses, a land-
scape of surpassing beauty.

MOUNT CHURCH.

One of the most conspicuous objects on your first approach-
ing Madeira is the church of Nossa Senhora do Monte, the
Lady of the Mount. This church serves as a land-mark to
the heretic sailor, and is far more dear to the Roman Catholic
for other reasons. As he approaches he sees the church of
the saint who has protected him across the angry wave ; as he
departs he looks to the mount, and offers a vow to the Lady
in whose help he trusts during his perilous voyage *.

ANCHORAGE.

The anchorage is not good, and woe betide you if the sea
comes swelling in from the south when you are in the roads.
This sometimes happens without any wind, and you have the
extraordinary phenomenon of shipwrecks in a calm, from the
mere swell and roll of the Atlantic.

* Offerings are frequently made to our Lady before a voyage; the inha-
bitants relate a mirncle that was performed by this Saint when the island was
once threatened with famine. A pilgrimage was made to the mount by the
principal inhabitants to propitiate ATossa Senhora, and in the morning a ves-
sel laden with corn arrived from Lisbon. On examination, the clothes of
the Saint proved to be saturated with sea-water. The sailors also related that
during a calm a white figure had risen from the ocean and dragged them into
the bay!

chap, i.] VISIT BOAT. BEACH. — FDNCHAL. 3

On the 31st of December, 1848, I saw four vessels come
on shore one after the other, and Her Majesty's corvette
Daphne had a narrow escape. The wind was blowing dead
into the bay at this time. One ship, finding she had no
chance of holding her ground, set all her canvas, and ran
herself high and dry upon the beach. Every vessel was a
wreck a very short time after she touched the shore, yet but
two lives were lost. The Loo Rock gun fired as each fresh
ship was driven from her anchorage. A large barque broke
away ; again the gun fired, and as she gradually neared the
strand, in spite of all her efforts, her fate seemed sealed,
when suddenly the wind veered round a point to the west,
and she sailed out amid the shouts of rejoicing of hundreds
of spectators on the beach.

VISIT BOAT.

As soon as the visit boat returns from you, if it goes with
flag unfurled, the sign that you are admitted to pratique, the
vessel is surrounded by innumerable boats, painted green,
white, blue, and yellow, and manned by mahogany-coloured
boatmen, jabbering very inharmonious Portuguese, one louder
than the other.

The beach is perhaps a mile from the anchorage. When
you think you have but two strokes more to pull before you
jump on shore, the boat is suddenly twisted round stem first,
the men tuck up their trousers, jump into the water, and,
waiting for a wave, run you up high and dry on the beach.

FUNCHAX.

The principal town in Madeira is Funchal. The name
means, in Portuguese, a place set with fennel, and it is said
to have been so called on account of the quantity of that

b 9

4 PRAZAS. — BUILDINGS. [chap. I.

herb found growing there at the time of the discovery of the
island. It is seen to much advantage from the sea, so white
and bright, with its suburbs of Quintets and their groves of
orange and coffee spread far and wide up the hills, fifteen
hundred feet above it.

In your first walk into the town you are struck by the
clean fresh look of everything about you. This cleanness
is owing, partly to the entire absence of dust, and partly to
the constant supply of running water, which is conducted in
covered gutters through every street*. The streets are well
paved with plates of whinstone, set edgewise ; their narrow-
ness shelters them from the sun without excluding the air.

PEAZAS.

The Prazas, which answer to the Spanish Alamedas and
French Boulevards, are planted with planes and oak trees ;
they afford a grateful shade for those whose health debars
them from taking much exercise, and yet are benefited by
breathing sea-air.

BUILDINGS.

In a country without brick, and having but little command
of freestone, no great excellence of architecture can be ex-
pected. The Cathedral, which is capable of holding about
two thousand four hundred persons, is a mixture of indefinite
styles ; nor are any of the other ecclesiastical buildings more
to be commended. The court-houses, custom-houses, and
prisons, are on a small scale.

In the market-place, as in the East, there are men always
standing to be hired. At night a solemn stillness reigns in

* There is, moreover, a police regulation which compels householders to
sweep clean the space in front of their premises every Saturday.

chap. I.] TURRETS. — SCENERY. 5

the streets, save where palanquin-bearers convey the reveller
to or from some party, or the glare of the flambeau precedes
pedestrians bound on a similar errand. The town is par-
tially lighted with oil, when there is no moon.

Almost every house is possessed of a turret, from which
a view is obtained over the town and harbour. This look-
out place is of use to the merchant, by enabling him early
to discern from it the approach of his vessels, which he
recognises by his private signals. In the town the ground-
floor of the merchants' houses is always occupied by wine,
and you have to ascend to reach the inhabited parts. There
is a great passion for building in Funchal ; as soon as a man
has accumulated a little money he frequently engages in
erecting a house, and finds himself obliged to borrow at an
exorbitant rate to complete what he has begun. One cause of
this, is the difficulty of investing money satisfactorily, where
there is no confidence in public securities. Amongst the
lower classes, gold ornaments and sometimes precious stones
are a favourite kind of investment. These are sold as
their wants call for the money, and bought again when
they have anything to spare.

SCENERT.

No artist's pencil has ever done full justice to the scenery
of Madeira ; what, then, can be expected from a bare descrip-
tion? There is an aerial magic in it which you must go thither
duly to appreciate. The various colours of the soil, with
mingled hues — black, yellow, red, and white — the vivid ver-
dure, and the everchanging shadows of the sky, give a warmth
of tint, and a diversity of effect, which is characteristic and
striking. Here is not the unintermitting blaze and eternal

o-

6 SKETCHING. DAGUERREOTYPE. [chap. i.

blueness of a tropical, nor the cold haze of a northern atmo-
sphere, hut the sunshine is broken and mellowed by flitting
clouds, and a series of dissolving lights and shades surrounds
you on every side, which must awaken pleasure and admi-
ration in the breast of the most insensible.

SKETCHING*.

The great difficulty of sketching in Madeira consists in the
grandeur of the scenery and the quickness with which the
lights disappear. In the ravines about the town there are
many exquisite little pieces to be found. There is an endless
fund of amusement for the lover of the pencil ; sit down
where you will, you get a good subject, as far as rocks, water,
and sky are concerned. Fine trees are a great desideratum to
the artist on the south side of the island ; on the north he
has them to his heart's content. The production of drawing
utensils always excites curiosity amongst the natives. The
artist is immediately surrounded by a motley group of people,
who seem as if they had nothing to do but watch his motions.
There they will stay for hours. It is true, they inflict no
greater inconvenience than belongs to the propinquity of a
mass of unwashen humanity, unless you quarrel with them.

DAGUERREOTYPE.

It might have been supposed that, in an atmosphere so pre-
eminently clear, the Talbotype and Daguerreotype would have
been peculiarly successfid. This does not, however, appear
to be the case. I am told that the chemical re-agents em-
ployed here in these arts have the usual amount of sensi-

* An enormous duty is imposed at the Custom-house on drawings, which
pay at the rate of 6s. 8d. per pound of their weight !

chap. i.J CONVEYANCES. 7

bility, and no more. As the effect of the solar ray is known
to differ at different times of the day, it may probably differ
also in the various atmospheres of different climates, and may
not always be in proportion to their clearness.

CONVEYANCES.

The scenery of the island is best seen on foot or on horse-
back. The use of carriages is impracticable, owing to the
steepness of the roads. An English gentleman has lately
had a sledge carriage constructed, capable of containing four
people, and drawn by a pair of oxen. It is a very good con-
veyance for the town, where the streets are smoothly paved,
but it would not answer in the rough roads of the country.
For the delicate or the lazy another mode of travelling in the
mountains is in a hammock, rede, as the natives call it. This
consists of a net of fine texture, slung to a single pole, which
is carried on men's shoulders. A good supply of cushions
makes it a luxurious conveyance. Nearly as good a view of
the scenery is obtained from the hammock as you have on
horseback. For a long journey each hammock has its relay
of bearers, who go at an amazing pace. These conveyances are
seldom seen in the town, excepting when used by invalids, who
find them easier than palanquins. The palanquins, which are
the usual town vehicles, are likewise suspended from a single
pole, and carried by two men. They are more commodious
for general use than hammocks, as admitting of an upright pos-
ture; but the framework being made of iron, they are heavy to
carry, and ill adapted for long distances. A hammock enables
the invalid without fatigue to take a share in those pic-nic ex-
cursions, friendly to health, to which the beautiful climate
and country invite, and which are the favourite social recrea-
tion of visitors to Madeira.

8 BUEKOQUEROS. RIDES. [chap. i.

BURROQDEROS.

The person who gets up one of these parties sends round
invitations to his friends to join him on a certain day to ride
to a given point. A rendezvous is assigned, at which the
riders assemble, each followed by his faithful burroquero.
The burroqueros are a fine set of fellows, whose duty it is to
took after you and your horse, to carry the coats you take to
fortify yourself against the mountain mists, an umbrella to
shield you from the sun, a rcibo, as they call it, or cow's tail
fastened on to the end of a stick, to brush the venomous flies
off your horse, shoes and nails for the same animal in case
he should require them : add to all this a basket containing
a cold chicken, sandwiches, fruit, pies, liquors, as the case
may be, and it is wonderful the poor fellows get on at all ;
but if you are told that not only do they go the whole nine
hours, more or less, without complaining, but often keep
pace with you on the worst of roads, or rather tracks, at a good
round gallop, holding on by your horse's tail as you fly up tbe
most precipitous hills, you may be disposed to disbelief. So
it is, however, and you could no more persuade one of them
to stay behind, go home, or forsake his charge, than you could
separate a shepherd from his flock.

RIDES.

The first ride in every new place is always the most strik-
ing, but perhaps not the most pleasing, for I believe more
pleasure is derived from the study of what we know than from
the transient though more glowing charm of novelty. With
Madeira this is particularly the case. There, you are put on
a horse shod in such a way as you never saw before; you ride
on such roads as, I may safely say, you have never had any

CHAP. I.] PIC-NICS. 9

experience of; and you pass at every step precipitous rocks,
strange trees, and beautiful plants, with a mind half occupied
in admiring what you see, half anxious lest one mistake on
your horse's part should end at once your pleasures and your
pains. On the other hand, there is no place where you are
less wearied by having the same prospect always before you ;
it is constantly varied by ever-flying clouds, and the warm
red colouring of the hills gives a tone that would not be
believed if seen on paper.

The horses to be procured in Madeira are good for their
work, and very sure-footed. Accidents seldom happen, not-
withstanding the bad roads and steep precipices ; indeed it is
astonishing to see the places these animals will traverse with-
out making a false step, picking their own way much better
than their rider can guide them.

PIC-NICS.

Let us suppose ourselves about to join one of these pic-nic
riding parties. Here we are all together, fifteen of us, on a
lovely day in February, with the thermometer standing at 69 de-
grees Fahrenheit in the shade at nine o'clock in the morning.
Our destination is the Curral das Freiras. At first starting
the roads are broad and good, as far as paved roads may be
called good. About Funchal the roads are lined on either
side with walls, which are generally covered with heliotropes,
roses, geraniums, fuchsias, &c, in wild profusion. Some of
the most picturesque views of the town are to be found be-
tween these walls, which, with their odorous clothing, form
delicious foregrounds. They are sometimes almost closed
over above your head by a treillage of vines which project
from the vineyards on both sides. One of the great amuse-
ments of the Portuguese who have Quintets, and gardens,

B 3

10 THE ESTEEITO. — THE JARDIM. [chap. I.

by the roadsides, consists in sitting in the Mirdntes, or look-
out seats, and gazing on the passers-by. This seems quite
a national taste, from the laughing black eyes that quiz the
estrangeiros in then' queer costumes, to the old Morgado
in his flowered dressing-gown. There they sit all day,
whilst their dogs come barking at you along the tops of
the walls, cracking the drums of your ears by their mongrel
yelps.

But to return to our party. We leave the road to Camera
de Lobos on our left, and begin to ascend in good earnest.
The road grows narrower and steeper ; still there is no inter-
mission of tbe gallop for horse or burroquero ; at last we
reach the church of

THE ESTEEITO.

Here the gentlemen of the advance guard dismount, to rest
their horses, and give time to those behind with timid nerves,
slow animals, or merciful hearts, to catch them up. But
who is that respectable individual in a gay robe, and cap
worked by some fair fingers ? It is the Padre of the Estreito.
He bows and smiles, and invites you, by signs, if you don't
understand Portuguese, to see the fine prospect from tbe top
of his church. But the rest of the party have assembled;
and, receiving the Padre's blessing in a friendly nod, perhaps
contributing some trifle for the poor, you mount your horses
and make the best of your way to

THE JARDIM.

You are now three thousand feet above the sea. This
beautiful place belongs to the late Consul, Mr. Veitch. He
has built his house in the Italiau style, and surrounded
it with woods of Spanish cbestnut. In the grounds near

chap. I.] CUREAL DAS FEEIRAS. 11

the house are cultivated the chief varieties of tea grown in
China, with many other rare and curious plants. A visit
to the Jardim, with the owner's permission, would well repay
you. Another halt is called to collect the party, and then, it
may be through a slight mist or cloud, you ride on to the
Curral.

CUERAL DAS FREIEAS.

You dismount, and are surrounded by a troop of girls
begging, and ragged boys and men offering you sticks to as-
sist in your ascent. Advance a few steps on the inclined
green sward ; what a prospect bursts upon your sight ! for a
second or two you are puzzled by the grandeur of the view
that presents itself ; you see with your unaccustomed eyes,
mountains, trees, sky, at first in unarranged proportions : by
degrees things begin to take their places, and you tremble on
the brink of an abyss that yawns below you, and points with
jagged fingers, uplifted six thousand feet, to a clear blue
heaven that seems to smile at your puny wonder. Thin
fleeting clouds pass away below, and disclose new beau-
' ties. The church of Librameuto looks like an atom at the
bottom of a vast basin, though it stands two thousand feet
above the sea. But our point is Pico Grande, and we must
linger no longer. The road now assumes a different cha-
racter : heretofore we have ascended and descended lulls,
steep enough, surely, and trodden roads that seemed slippery
and hard enough : but now we long for such again ; large
loose stones and solid rocks have taken their place ; a per-
pendicular cliff is above you on one side, a precipice below you
on the other : one start of your horse would be fatal. Walk-
ing is out of the question, unless you are equal to much

12 PICO GRANDE. — SHORT ROAD TO THE CURRAL. [chap. i.

fatigue ; so in single file we wind round and round again by
tortuous paths, repaid each step by new appearing wonders.
Another hour of such ridiug brings us to the foot of

PICO GRANDE.

The baskets are assembled, and the provisions emptied out ;
gentlemen vie with each other in attentions to the wants of
their fair companions ; the best seat is recommended, the
umbrella carefully arranged to save the trouble of holding it,
and the plate filled with the choicest of the feast. To food
and rest, and pure invigorating air, what a zest is added, if
you have any soul for nature, by looking out on the one side
on the Pico Kuivo, on the embattled Torrinhas, on the
rugged Sidrao and Arriero, and on the other on the long un-
broken Paiil, with the Serra dAgoa clothed in forest verdure
ever green below it.

The journey back is generally performed rapidly, the
horses know they are going home, and their riders do not
stop so much to look about them. If you get back at seven
o'clock, I will venture to say you will be quite ready for bed
at nine, to dream of the Curral and hair-breadth escapes, and
to wake at daylight to the consideration of what shall be your
next expedition.

SHORT ROAD TO THE CURRAL.

There is a shorter wav to the Curral than the one that has
just been described, approaching it from the other side. A
zigzag road leads clown to the bottom, where the scene is
varied by cottages, gardens, and plantations ; these enable
you to appreciate the loftier features of the scene by com-
parison. If you wish to make a long day of it, you may

chap. I.] EXPEDITION TO CAPE GIEAO. — CAMERA DE LOBOS. 13

ascend a winding path which runs down the east flauk of
Pico Grande, and so return home by the Jardirn.

EXPEDITION TO CAPE GIRAO.

There are numerous other points which are frequently se-
lected as the objects of these excursions. Cape Girao is less
distant than Pico Grande, the road is good the whole way,
and you get over the ground much faster. Riding along the
sea-side, at the expiration of an hour and a half you find
yourself at the picturesque little village of

CAMERA DE LOBOS.

The inhabitants are all fishermen, and supply the Funchal
market. The village is curiously situated, built on and ex-
cavated into a rock that stands prominently out in the bay.

Ascending the hill on the other side of the village, you
pass through a country which grows some of the best wine in
the island. With the sun on your back, you toil up this hill,
and are thankful when you at last reach the venda of Cape
Girao, after a ride of about two hours and a half : here most
people prefer to get off and trust to their own legs rather than
their horses' ; the party now proceeds to look down the pre-
cipice. The first sensation on looking straight down a
height of two thousand feet, is a slight quiver through your
frame ; the sea looks so small dashing against the rocks be-
low, and you cannot help rejoicing when you have got safely
away.

Groups of peasants soon collect together, and hurl frag-
ments of rock down the cliff to show you how long they are in
reaching the bottom. There are patches of cultivated
ground by the sea-side below, and one cannot but fancy that
this practice of stone-rolling might be attended with results

14 EXPEDITION TO MACHICO. — SANCTA CRUZ, ETC. [chap. I.

beneath, of a different nature from what the students of the
laws of attraction above might desire. At the bottom of the
clitf, stones are quarried at some peril, for building purposes.
Frail ladders are the only means by which the quarry can be
reached. All the " cantaria molle,"* both red and gray, is
quarried here; the " cantaria riga" comes from the parish
of the Estreito of Camera de Lobos.

Beyond Cape Girao the ride is sometimes extended to the
Campanario ; here grows a Spanish chestnut of immense size,
which has been hollowed out, and the interior has been con-
verted into a small room. It is 36 feet in circumference, and
continues to bear a vigorous foliage.

EXPEDITION TO MACHICO.

Another long day's excursion is to Machico. Starting at
eight o'clock in the morning, and riding along a road possess-
ing but little interest, you come, at the end of two hours and
a half, upon the town of

SANCTA CRUZJ.

A fine specimen of the date-bearing palm is here an object
of some curiosity. It is not till you open out the fertile
valley of Machico \ that you are repaid, as regards scenery,
for your long ride.

MACHICO.

At the village of Machico you are taken to see Machim's
chapel §, and are shown the remains of the cedar cross.
Your route now lies up the ravine, which is closed in on the

* " Cantaria molle" is a soft stone, or freestone, used in building, and
" Cantaria riga" is a harder material.

+ See " Sketches in Madeira," by Lady S. V. Harcowt.
Ibid. § See chap. iv. page 64.

+

chap. I.] PORTELLA. SERRA DE SANTO ANTONIO, ETC. 15

north and east by high hills, and is covered with a profusion
of vineyards, white quintets, and straw-thatched cottages.

PORTELLA.

Mounting to the Portella, which is a sort of natural gate-
way hewn in the ridge of rocks, you obtain a glorious view on
all sides : the high peaks of Ruivo ; the Valley of Faial, with
the grand insulated rock of the Penha d'Aguia in its bosom;
the Point S™ Lourenco ; and beyond it the Island of Porto
Santo in the distance.

SERRA DE SANTO ANTONIO.

Your ride home continues across the Serra of Santo An-
tonio; the word serra means a saw, and has been origi-
nally applied to a serrated mountain range ; in Madeira the
term is used to express an elevated plain. This serra is a
place of summer resort ; it is famous for the fine urze * trees
which grow in the vicar's garden. There is a building
erected near the church for the accommodation of tourists,
which bears the name of the pilgrims' house.

CAMACHA.

Next you come to Camacha, another place of summer re-
sidence, preferred by many from its being nearer to the town.
At last you reach the Palheiro, and thence descending on
Funchal, finish a long day's work of nine or ten hours'
duration.

PALHEIRO.

The Palheiro was the chief country residence of the
wealthy Count Carvalhal, who formerly owned nearly one-

* Tree heath.

16 AFTERNOON RIDES. BOATING EXCURSIONS. [chap. I.

third of the island : the present possessor is a minor : the
grounds are laid out after the manner of an English park :
the gardens show signs of former care and magnificence, and
are famous for their lofty camellias, and for Portugal laurels
as large as timber trees.

AFTERNOON RIDES.

Amongst the most favourite afternoon rides is one by Fort
S^° Goncalo, on the Sancta Cruz road, returning home by
the Palheiro ; another to the little Curral, as it is called,
going by the Mount Church, and returning either by the
Caminho de Meio or the Palheiro ; a third along the new
road to Praia Formosa, passing the Forja de Ferreiro and the
Gorgulho ; a fourth, the road round by S?° Roque, Santo
Antonio, and S1!0 Martinho ; a fifth by the Alegria *, &c.

BOATING EXCURSIONS.

For those who are fond of boating, there are many very
pleasant excursions. To Cape Girao, for instance, at the
base of which you form almost a grander conception of the
gigantic cliff than even by looking down from its summit. A
further expedition along this coast is to Ponta do Sol, a pretty
little town about three hours' pull from Funchal ; here you
may perhaps procure ponies, or walk back to Ribeira Bravaf,
sending your boat there to meet you, and then take ship
again home. On the other side, Sancta Cruz, Machico, and
Canical afford objects for a cruise. From the chapel of
N. S. da Piedade, above Canical, you have a magnificent
view of the north coast of the island as far as Santa Anna. Its
black frowning cliffs stand in strong contrast with the smiles

* The country residence of Mrs. Penfold.

f See " Sketches in Madeira," by Lady S. V. Harcourt.

chap. I.] EXPEDITION TO SA.° VINCENTE. 17

of the southern coast, which lies extended before you on the
left. Some people prefer making the expeditions to Machico
and the fossil beds of Canical from Sancta Cruz, where there
is good accommodation ; a sojourn there of a few days affords
an agreeable change from Funchal.

EXPEDITION TO SA.° VINCENTE.

If any one desires, however, not to leave Madeira without
having seen the most striking features and grandest deve-
lopment of its scenery, he must not satisfy himself with
a distant glimpse only of the northern side of the island.
Let us, then, make an expedition to the north, and consider
what is most worthy of notice there. We will set off early,
and go to S^° Vincente by the Jardim and the Curral; as far
as Pico Grande is old ground to us, but it does not lose by a
second visit : passing on, we come to a road cut in the face
of a lofty cliff, being the base of the Pico Grande, from
which the water is rilling down, and splashes you as you
pass : below is a basin of forests, broken here and there by
mountain torrents ; presently you reach the Encumeado * of
gao Vincente, where the magnificent woods present a rich
feast to the eye, and you look down upon the beautiful Serra
d'Agoa opening to the sea at Bibeira Brava. There has
been a swollen torrent here lately, and part of the bridge is
washed away : enough of the fabric remains for a man to
walk upon, but the horses cannot pass ; your burroquero does
not help you, he looks on in helpless terror. What is to be
done? See, there are some planks below that have been
stayed by that mass of rock in the bed of the torrent ; with
the assistance of your boys you at length get them up, and

* " Encumeado " is a spot no cume, " on a high place," or summit of a
mountain.

18 KABACAL. [chap. i.

construct a rickety pathway for the animals, which with some
coaxing you persuade them to pass, and proceed on your
journey exulting in your success. The first view of Sa.°
Vincente is very striking as you look down upon it from
the heights. The town is composed of several huts and a
few better houses, amongst which may he distinguished that
of S°r Manoel Joaquim da Costa Andrade, whose hospitable
door has been so often opened to the English traveller*.
These are built on a ribeiro that assumes a fork-like shape as
it approaches the sea. At the extremity of this fork is situated
a small rock which has been hollowed out and turned into a
chapel ; mass is celebrated in it once a year. From this point
you obtain a good view of the coast as far as Porto Moniz ; the
north here outdoes itself in rugged steepness. From Sa.°
Vincente you can either proceed to the east or west ; if you
take the western side, you ascend first the Paul da Serra by
a very steep road, covered with loose stones.

EABACAL.

J

We next come to that great work, the levada of the
Kabacal. The difficulties to be overcome in constructing this
watercourse were enormous. There is here a vast perpen-
dicular rock, 1000 feet high, the water from the summit
of which fell over the slightly-projecting edge, and was lost
in the ravine below. The object of the proposer of the work
was to catch this stream in its descent, where it struck upon
the face of the rock, and, carrying it off by a levada, to apply
it to the irrigation and fertilizing of a comparatively barren
tract. To effect this it was necessary to make a course in
the hard and high rock, mid-way betwixt the top and the
base. The engineer had a crate constructed, in which the

* An inn has lately been established at S'}° Vincente.

chap. i.J CALHETA. EXPEDITION TO SANTA ANNA. 19

workmen were placed, and let down by means of ropes to
the point required. In this way they worked, subject to the
drippings of the cold stream above, and often with great diffi-
culty getting out of the way of the explosions from the blast-
ing of the rock. When this operation was finished, a tunnel
was to be bored through the end of the Paul da Serra, and a
levada six miles long constructed. The work was commenced
in 1836, and carried on for some years ; the course along the
face of the rock was actually completed to a length of 700
feet, and connected with a levada extending six miles ; but,
alas ! as far as the tunnel was concerned, want of funds inter-
fered, and half the project only was executed. The water,
consequently, still loses itself in the Ribeira Janella, and the
thirsty vines of the south still want what if bestowed upon
them would double their fertility *. The views of the Rabacal
are certainly amongst the finest in Madeira.

CALHETA.

Your road now continues to Calheta, where you find a very
good inn to rest at after your fatigues. The next day you
can either return to Funchal by water, if the wind and
weather suits, or make a land voyage of it, which, however,
is less pleasant, as the road is long and bad.

EXPEDITION TO SANTA ANNA.

Let us now start again from Sa.° Vincente, and take the
eastward route to Santa Anna along the sea-coast. The road
leads by the shore across a stream, which at high water is
sometimes dangerous to pass, to Ponta Delgada, a pretty

* The tunnel is now finished, and there are good hopes of the whole work
being completed.

20 BOA VENTURA. — ENTROZA PASS. [chap. i.

village with a good church. Here you have none of the
gradual sloping of tufa plains towards the sea that you find
on the south side, but a lofty iron front is everywhere pre-
sented to the angry waves. A narrow horse-road, bold, but
safe, skirts the midway of these high cliffs, which tower
1000 feet above you, so perpendicularly as to hide from
your sight, in some places, an almost vertical sun, whilst
the sea is nearly as far below your feet. Here and there,
where some ravine gives an outlet to a torrent that perhaps
originally formed it, you come upon a lovely village which is
a garden of vines and chestnuts.

BOA VENTURA.

After passing the Ponta Delgada, you leave the shore and
ascend a winding road up a steep hill, to descend again into
the ravine of the Boa Ventura. You can return to Funchal
up the valley, passing through the Curral. The road is very
bad, and the journey fatiguing, but you are rewarded for it by
the grandeur of the views.

ENTROZA PASS.

Next you come to the Eutroza Pass, where the steadiness
of your own head and your horse's hoofs are put to a severe
trial ; the road is narrow, and covered with loose stones ;
a precipice below you overhangs the sea, and a cliff above you
presents a smooth high side which it makes you giddy to look
up to. This steep pathway is said to be constructed on
timbers projecting out of the bare rock. There is more
danger in appearance, however, than reality, and accidents
seldom happen ; many, however, prefer their own legs to those
of their horses, in passing this point.

chap. I.] S\° JORGE. SANTA ANNA. PICO RUIVO. 21

SA.° JORGE.

The next place of importance you reach is &.° Jorge ;
thence to Santa Anna is about an hour's ride. At Sa.° Jorge
Dr. Oliviera has built a large house for himself, as a summer
residence, and is doing a public sen-ice by setting an example
of improved cultivation.

SANTA ANNA.

At Santa Anna you dismount at tbe house of Si1- Luiz
Acciaioli, who unites to the attention of the host the manners
of the gentleman, and provides good accommodation on rea-
sonable terms. From Santa Anna there are excursions suffi-
cient to detain you there two or three days.

PICO RUIVO.

The ride from Santa Anna up Pico Ruivo is beautiful.
Passing through beds of furze, bilberry, and heather, you
have some of the most magnificent views in the island, and
look down on all sides on a grand variety. Many, however,
are the parties that have been disappointed in their visits to
the heights of Madeira. Starting perhaps with an unclouded
sky, you barely reach the summit before light mists have
begun to ascend from the valleys beneath you ; these quickly
gather, and enshroud you in an impenetrable veil. Woe
betide those who are separated at such times from their
guides : to find your way, without knowing the land-marks,
is impossible. Perhaps a goat-path presents itself to you
in your distress; you follow it along the edge of some
frightful chasm till it becomes undistinguishable ; you pro-
ceed, forcing your way through the underwood with which the
banks are clad hanging on where the descent is almost

22 VISTA OF FAIAL. METADE VALLEY. [chap, i .

perpendicular, till at last you are stopped abruptly by a
precipice. A glimpse between tbe passing clouds shows you
that you are in an entirely wrong direction. You wearily
retrace your steps, by good fortune reach the spot where you
left your horse and guide, but find them there no more. The
only remaining course is to walk home, perhaps an operation
of four or five hours. To make the picture perfect, we may
imagine a heavy tropical rain to come on towards evening.

VISTA OF FAIAL.

Eiding from Santa Anna to the Vista of Faial, you have a
beautiful view of the detached mass of rock of the Penha
d'Aguia*, backed by Point S*° Lourenco, jutting into the
sea far eastward, and the intervening capes. If you have
time, you can visit Faial and Porto da Cruz beyond it ; some
return thus to Funchal, going by way of Sancta Cruz.

METADE VALLEY.

However, the direct way is the best, if it were only to see
the Metade Valley. This ravine is one of the deepest in the
island; the mountains at its head are often capped with
clouds, and seem invested with a kind of mysterious grandeur.
On the road you get a very good broadside view of the Penha
d'Aguia f through a frame of chestnuts covered with vines.
At the time of pruning it is a curious sight to see the groves
of chestnuts, each tree with its man on it, the whole forest of
them chattering, singing, and working away most merrily.
The chestnut trees of the north are all lopped at the top
to stunt their growth, and make them better trainers for
the vines.

* See " Sketches in Madeira," by Lady S. V. Harcourt. + Ibid.

chap, i.] RIBEIRO FRIO. LAMUCEIRAS. 23

RIBEIRO FRIO.

At length you reach the Eiheiro Frio. The scene here
presents a softer aspect, and forms a pleasing contrast to the
wild majesty of what you have just seen. If you have not
been there before, take your luncheon up to the levada; tbere
you look down the road you have come up, and see your old
friend the Penha d'Aguia at the bottom of the Metade Valley.
Passing along the same levada, round a projecting cliff, you
come upon all the peaks, in full grandeur arrayed before you.

Leaving the Ptibeiro Frio, and riding through woods of til
and vinhatico, you mount to a Serra, where there is turf for
a gallop, a great rarity in Madeira. Again you ascend, and
when you presently descend, the shipping opens out, and now
Funchal smiles brightly upon you with its white sunny
look, as though it would welcome you back after your
northern tour.

LAMUCEIRAS.

On the whole, I think if I had to recommend an excursion
to a person who was only going to make a single one in the
island, I should be inclined to choose the Lamuceiras. Take
a cloudless day, start at eight o'clock, and go by the Caminho
de Meio. The hill is certainly steep, but you are rewarded
by a fine fresh air when you get to the top. The riding is all
very pleasant, first over turf, and presently amongst the bilberry
bushes, through which you pass for some miles ; then Point
Sa.° Lourenco comes in sight, and at last, through groves of
laurels, you reach the Pico dAssoma. Here, on a bank of
violets, you may open the luncheon basket. Your fore-
ground is formed of evergreens ; the grand peaks of Ruivo,
Arriero, and Torrinhas are before you ; below them the

24 SUMMARY, [chap. I.

Metade Valley, the Eibeiro Frio, and Santa Anna ; to your
right are the Penha d'Aguia, Faial, and Porto da Cruz ; behind
you the Portella, Machico, Sl° Lourenco, Canical, and the
Serra de Santo Antonio. In fact, you have in sight almost
the whole of the east of the island. You may return by Santo
Antonio da Serra, passing through a country beautified with
fuchsias, geraniums, oaks, broom, gorse, corn, vines, &c.

SUMMARY.

To give a general summary of the appearance of the
island we may describe it thus : — It consists of a mass of moun-
tains, whose highest points rise to a central ridge. The whole
coast is composed of cliffs, varying in height from one hun-
dred to two thousand feet ; abrupt and lofty in their general
character on the north side of the island, and of a lower
smoother aspect on the south. The central mountains
branch down to the sea in ridges or chines, which are parted
by precipitous chasms, called here ravines, and which consti-
tute the grandest features of the Madeira scenery. In some
parts the ravines are full of dark forests, reflecting a solemn
shade on the precipices that support them. The towns are
for the most part planted in the bosoms of these ravines,
which certainly resemble one another, yet in each there is
sufficient individuality to relieve any feeling of monotony.
From the tops of the mountains you discover the sea on
all sides of you, but far from detracting from the grandeur of
the prospect, the limited extent of land rather adds to a feel-
ing of awe, when you consider that you are perched on a point,
as it were, in the midst of the vast Atlantic.

CHAPTEE II.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

From a Sketch by Lady Susan Vernon Harcourt.

View of Funchal from Hollway's Cottage.

Seepage 27.

CHAPTER II.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

" Each little addeth to the general store,
Who follows learns from him that went before."

Pen's Poems.

Passports. — Means of conveyance. — Lodgings. — Servants. — Money. — Pro-
visions.— Markets. — Clothing.— Horses. — Boats. — Oxen. — British places
of worship. — English burial grounds. — Shrove Tuesday. — Public amuse-
ments.— Parties.

PASSPORTS.

Passports for Madeira may be obtained without any payment
from the Portuguese Minister in London ; otherwise you are
presented on your arrival with a permit of residence, for
which you do pay. On leaving Madeira you are required to
take a passport.

MEANS OF CONVEYANCE.

The trading brigs which ply between London, Portsmouth,
Southampton, and Madeira are very commodious ; the cap-
tains are attentive to their passengers, and the fare is excel-
lent. Two or three of them generally sail in the course of a
month : they make the passage, on an average, in twelve
or fourteen days. There are no fixed days for sailing, but
they always advertise themselves in the Times. The passage-

26 LODGINGS. CHAP. ii.

money is £17 : for this sum you are provided with every re-
quisite for lodging and for board.

It is usual for these traders, during the winter, to make at
least one trip to Teneriffe, thus affording an opportunity of
visiting that far-famed island, besides the benefit to the in-
valid of a sea-voyage.

The new line of steamers to the Brazils offers another
means of conveyance to Madeira*. The passage-money
by these boats is £20. Return fares have been esta-
blished, at the rate of £33 out and home. An abate-
ment of one-sixth of the established rates is made in
favour of families.

It is not safe for persons in delicate health, after having
spent the winter in a warm climate, to face the uncertain
weather of England much before June. In the month of
April some of the sailing brigs are in the habit of conveying
passengers to Cadiz, and a month spent in Spain or Portugal
on the way home makes a pleasing variety. The fare to
Cadiz, by the brigs, is £8 6s. Scl, and to Lisbon, by the
steamers, £7 5s. lOd. The Portuguese traders take vou to
Lisbon for £5 4s. 2d.

LODGINGS.

Lodgings in Madeira are plentiful and good. For a
family, the most comfortable plan is to take a Quintet, that is

* These boats leave Southampton at 6 p.m. on the 9th of each month,
and arrive at Lisbon on the 14th, at 6 a.m.; stop one day; leave Lisbon on
the 15th, at 6 A.m., and arrive at Madeira on the 18th, at 1 A.M. Thence
they proceed to the Brazils, via Teneriffe and De Verd Islands, and on their
return arrive at Madeira on the 3rd of the following month, at 3 p.m.; they
leave Madeira on the 4th, at 3 a.m., and arrive at Lisbon on the 6th, at
10 p.m.; leave Lisbon on the 7th, at 10 p.m., and arrive at Southampton on
the 12th, at 10 a.m.

chap. II.] SERVANTS. 27

to say, a house with a garden, standing in the suburbs of the
town. The price asked for the season of six months varies
according to their size, from £50 to £200. In such cases the
tenant is supplied with everything but plate * and house
linen. For single persons the boarding-houses are least trou-
blesome, as well as most economical : a bed-room, sitting-
room, attendance, and board are obtained there for fifty
dollars, or £10 8s. Ad. a month. These houses are con-
ducted on a liberal scale, and every English comfort is pro-
vided. If a Quinta is taken, a supply of servants, board,
plate, and linen, may be procured at a given ratef. It is
inconceivable what annoyances you are saved by such an
arrangement ; besides the endless impositions practised upon
the ignorance of foreigners by servants and tradesmen, it is
no small luxury to be able to pay a given sum down monthly,
instead of the interminable daily payments which the ready
money system of Madeira requires.

SEEVANTS.

Portuguese servants may be hired for house and kitchen
work at the rate of about from four to six dollars per month
for the former, and from six to eight dollars for the latter ser-
vice. Those who are content with a plain table, average
honesty, and moderate attention, have no reason to be dis-
satisfied.

* Plate, furniture, pianofortes, saddles, guns, and, in fact, any things that
are brought out as luggage, are allowed to pass through the Custom House
free of charge, on the bond of some resident householder being given that
the owner of the property will export it in eighteen months.

f Mr. "William Wilkinson was the first to undertake arrangements of this
description, and Mr. Reid is also willing to supply families visiting Madeira
for the winter in the same manner.

c 2

28 MONEY. Tchap. ii.

MONET.

The Mexican dollar, the American half-dollar, and smaller
Spanish silver coins, are most commonly used in Madeira.
The money is all reckoned by an imaginary standard called a
ree, which is equal to about the one-twentieth part of a penny.
Cem reis, which the Portuguese call a tostao, and the English
a bit, equal fivepence ; two of these coins, equivalent to a
French/Vrtwc, the English call apistaree?i; they are represented
respectively, as far as currency is concerned, by the peseta and
half peseta of Spain. Two pesetas the Portuguese call a
crusado. The pesetas are sometimes of ancient date and in
excellent preservation, looking as if they had been long
hoarded, and accordingly many are the legends of secreted
treasures, and many the fruitless searches which have been
made under old floors for them. Mil reis, or patdca, is the
name applied to dollars, whether they be the pillared dollars
of Spain, the Mexican, Bolivian, or Peruvian, and all are re-
duced to the same value of four shillings and twopence. The
weight, indeed, and intrinsic value of all the different dollars
is nearly the same. The pillared dollars of Spain have ob-
tained a general preference, due either to the silver being less
alloyed, or, as some say, to their being the only dollar ac-
cepted by the Moors, who will take no coin to which they have
been unaccustomed. In China, where the value of silver is
of serious commercial consequence, there has been lately
published a curious official paper, setting forth the relative
worth to shopkeepers of the various coins. " It has already
been proved by assay," this document says, " that the quality
of ike fowl money (Mexican dollar), compared with the foreign
face money (Spanish dollar) is inferior in value one can-
dareen, 43-10 and decimals of a cash; that of the tree

chap. n.J PROVISIONS. — MARKETS. — CLOTHING. — HORSES. 29

money (Bolivian Eepublic dollar) is superior 6-10 and
decimals of a cash; that of the staff dollar (Peruvian
Eepublic dollar) is superior 44-10 and decimals of a
cash." English gold and silver coin is current for its full
value : the sovereign always passes for four thousand eight
hundred reis. United States gold and silver coin, the dol-
lars of Mexico and the South American Republics, together
with their decimal parts, and Spanish doubloons, are likewise
current in Madeira. South American doubloons, and the
silver coins of Portugal and the Brazils, are not received in
payments. Copper is the only Portuguese money used in
the island. Hard cash is the best resource for a visitor
to be provided with, as from one to five per cent, is lost
on letters of credit.

PROVISIONS.

Provisions of all sorts are cheap. English bread, which
is sold at 2^d. the pound, is the dearest article of food ; the
quality of it, however, is excellent. Mutton, which is an
indifferent meat, fetches from B^d. to Ad. a pound; beef,
which is good, from 3|d. to Ad. ; and veal from Ad. to 5d.
Fowls may be purchased at from 10c?. to Is. 3d. a couple.

MARKETS.

The markets are held at daybreak, and all the meat, the
best fish, and best fruits are bought at that time. Tea, soap,
and tobacco are contraband, but the Custom House is not
inexorable.

CLOTHING.

A common English wardrobe, with the addition of a few
lighter articles and a waterproof covering for the mountains,
suffices for clothing.

HORSES.

The horse is an almost indispensable part of the establish-

30 HORSES. [chap. ii.

rnent of visitors to Madeira. The prices, whether for sale or
hire, are apparently high ; but it must be considered that the
freightage of horses from England, which is the ordinary
source of the supply, amounts to £15, and that they are on
hand for half the year. The price at present charged for horse
lure is thirty dollars (£6 5s.) per month. The most economi-
cal plan is to buy your horse on first arriving. His keep will
cost you £1 Is. Ad. per month of twenty-eight days, his
shoeing 4s. 2d., his bedding 3s. Ad., and his groom £1 5s. —
total, £2 3s. lOd. per month ; making a difference between the
cost of keeping and hiring (when 8s. Ad. per month to a groom
is added to the latter) of £3 19s. 6d. in favour of the former.
Of course into the opposite balance you must put the loss on
the sale of your horse at the end of the season, as well as the
interest on your purchase-money meanwhile; but all this
leaves you with a clear gain in favour of purchase. Say you
give £25 for a horse on arriving, keep it for six months at
a cost of £16 3s., and sell it when you go for £15, allow
the purchase-money a value of four per cent., or 10s., then
your horse will stand you in £26 13s.; whereas, the cost
of hiring for the same period of six months would be
£40. Where more horses than one are kept the difference
is more than proportionably greater. As one groom does
for all, £7 10s. is to be deducted for wages and keep for
six months from the expenses of every additional horse ;
moreover, the groom does other things for you besides attend-
ing to your horse. You are generally advised to take out
saddles with you to Madeira ; but in most instances, where
you buy, the saddle is sold with the pony, and where
you hire, the saddles furnished by the stable-keepers are quite
good enough, being almost all English. Those, however,
who take saddles find a ready sale for them on leaving the
island.

chap. n.J BOATS. 31

The horses in Madeira are fed chiefly on milho (Indian
corn). Milho may be bought for Is. h\d. the alqueire (two-
fifths of a bushel), retail price. An alqueire lasts four days if
the horse is allowed a quarter a day, and he works very well
on that. When the rnilho is crushed it is more nourishing,
and goes much further. Add one alqueire of bran, which will
cost you lOci.to every four alqueires of crushed milho, and it
will make a good mash for your horse, besides preventing
your groom from appropriating the com to his own use. The
fodder given to horses, which they call lierva, is a com-
pound of sugar-cane leaves, vine leaves when in season, and
other similar materials: bcl. a day of this is amply sufficient.
In going to the north of the island it is advisable to take
corn for the horses, as everything of that sort is dear
there. A race-course exists near Funchal, supported by
subscription ; not that there are often races upon it, but
it is almost the only place where you can get a gallop.
A ticket taken for the season enables a gentleman to admit
ladies.

BOATS.

The boats in Madeira are excellent. They are protected
against the danger of being stove in when hauled up on so
steep a shore by the contrivance of two false keels at the
sides. The boatman's charge is Is. 3d. an hour. The dex-
terity displayed by these men in launching their passengers
and landing them on the beach is very great. In the former
process they wait till a wave rises to the proper height,
then instantly shove the boat down to meet it, and the
passenger, seated within, finds himself drawn away on the
crest of the receding water. The least clumsiness would be
fatal. If the boat were run down before the wave broke, it
would probably break into it, and if too late, the boat would be

32 OXEN. [chap. ii.

dragged broadside on, presenting its side for the next wave to
wash over. On landing, after being accustomed to demure
English ways, you are scared at the hideous yells which seem
requisite whenever Portuguese strength is exerted. How-
ever, all is cleverly managed.

OXEN.

Where the boats are heavy, oxen are often employed to drag
them on shore. These animals convey all heavy goods. They
are harnessed to sledges, which are, in fact, nothing but flat
pieces of wood attached to a yoke. The oxen are preceded
by a man, who acts as their leader, and whom they follow
wherever he goes ; and driven by another, who holds in one
hand a goad, consisting of a long stick with an iron point
about an inch in length, and in the other a rag, which he wets
from time to time, and puts under the sledge to make it run
more smoothly on the stones and prevent its taking fire.
These men make most unearthly noises and screams, which
are intended to encourage the team. " Ca para Mem Boi" is
a familiar sound to all who have visited Madeira. The work
is severe for the oxen, and they are only employed three days
a week. They have lately been made fashionable animals by
the introduction of oxen-cars, or sledges, for human convey-
ance*.

OXEN-CAR.

* Captain C. Bulkeley, late of the 2nd Life Guards, first introduced these
useful vehicles into Madeira, in the year 1848.

chap, ii.] BRITISH PLACES OF WORSHIP. — BURIAL GROUNDS. 33

BRITISH PLACES OF WORSHIP.

There are three British places of worship at present in
Madeira ; two Church of England, and one Presbyterian.

ENGLISH BURIAL GROUNDS.

In former days, before the power of the Inquisition was
broken in Portugal, the bodies of all whom the Holy Office
termed heretics were forbidden the rites of Christian burial.
Ovington* relates a barbarous instance of their bigotry : " An
English merchant dying, all the other merchants of the same
nation, willing to inter the body decently, and yet to avoid
the rigorous impositions of the Inquisition, determined to
have it carried in the night over the rocks into the moun-
tains ; however, their design was discovered by that jealous
tribunal, and they were watched to the place of interment.
Scarce had the corpse been laid in the dust when they
were surrounded by the corregidors and officers of justice,
assisted by a large body of armed men, who immediately
dug up the body, exposed it to public insults, and then
threw it into the sea, with all possible marks of infamy
and disgrace." Religious toleration, which always accom-
panies the progress of a more healthy policy, has now granted
to the English in Madeira two places of burial for their
dead : the one is used by those constantly resident in the
island ; the other contains the bodies of those who, seeking
for health in a foreign land, have there found rest for ever.
The cypress droops over the stranger's grave, and many a
flower decks his lonely tomb.

* Voyage to Suratt, 1689, p. 28.

c 3

34 SHROVE TUESDAY. — PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS, ETC. [chap. II.

SHROVE TUESDAY.

The ceremonial customs of the Romish Church in Madeira
are not observed in a manner to attract much of the attention
of strangers, unless it be in the grotesque observance of
Shrove Tuesday. Bad eggs, water, and blacking are stored
in preparation for that day. Some bridge or corner of a
street is selected by the different parties of mummers. The
operators are dressed in their worst clothes, and their hands
and faces covered with their own blacking. The passers-
by run the gauntlet of these worthies, with a customary ex-
ception of well-dressed people and carriers of parcels and
letters, whose claims to immunity, however, are sometimes
forgotten. Resentment is vain, always ending in two blows
to one, a black face, yellow trowsers, &c, from the rabble.

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.

Public amusement is scantily provided for in Funchal.
When you have mentioned the Portuguese club, in which
a ball is held once a month, and to which a billiard-room
is attached, you have almost come to an end of the list of
places of resort. The English have established a subscription
library, where many popular and standard works are to be
found, together with the common periodicals and newspapers
of the day. The subscription is high, but the luxury you pay
for is great. A subscriber is allowed to take books home
with him to read. The Portuguese Commercial Rooms, to
which English are admitted to subscribe, are likewise pro-
vided with newspapers.

Theatricals have sometimes been attempted in the Funchal
theatre house, but they have always proved failures. In the
Portuguese language there are few good plays ; good play
writing, and good acting, as well as a favourable reception of

chap. II.] PARTIES. 35

both by the public, are rarely met with in Portugal or her
colonies.

PARTIES.

The hospitality of Madeira merchants is proverbial. They
give many pleasant parties and balls for the entertainment of
their friends, and all is done that kindness and consideration
can do to make people forget the distance at which they are
from their homes. Funchal parties are not generally in-
fected with the contagion of the late hours of London. It is
practicable to unite sociability with prudence, and retire to
rest at a moderate bour. For those who are seeking health,
however, the wisest course is to go out as little as possible at
night. The English and Portuguese do not mix often to-
gether in society, and there is consequently very little to
remind you that you are living amongst foreigners. Such in-
tercourse, however, as you hold with the Portuguese is agree-
able, from their civility, good-nature, and absence of pride.

CHAPTER III.

ON THE CLIMATE AND VITAL STATISTICS OF MADEIRA.

" Ah! what avail the largest gifts of Heaven,
When drooping health and spirits go amiss?
How tasteless then whatever can be given!
Health is the vital principle of bliss."

Thomson.

Climate. — Tables of Temperature — of Rain. — Deluges. — Rainy season. —
L'Este. — Clouds. — Sunset. — Snow. — Dampness. — Summer. — Longevity.
— Population. — Emigration.

The mean temperature of Funchal throughout the year may
be stated at 66 degrees of Fahrenheit, February and March
being the coldest, August and September the hottest months.
Even between these months there is not a greater mean
difference of temperature than 12 degrees*. It is this
uniformity in which the excellence of the climate consists.
The causes which are instrumental in forming such a climate
in Funchal are threefold : firstly, the lofty hills which imme-
diately surround it on the north completely shelter it from
the weather at all the points of the compass, except from
south-east to south-west ; secondly, the absence of wood,
whilst it impairs its beauty, improves its climate ; and, thirdly,
the regularity of the alternations of the land and sea
breezes tends to preserve a delicious equability of tempe-
rature.

* It is not fair to estimate the climate of a country merely by its mean
annual temperature; we should look rather to the distribution of heat through
the different months of the year: Humboldt has shown that the isochimenals
and isotherals (lines of equal winter and summer temperature) are by no
means parallel with the isotkermals (lines of equal annual temperature).

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chap. in. TABLES OF TEMPERATURE. — HEBERDEN.

39

Dr. Heberden's account of monthly maxima and minima
of temperature in Madeira, as observed a century ago, shows
an amount of variation similarly small.

Anno 1749.

Anno 1750

Barometer.

Thermometer.

Barometer. 1 Thermometer.

M. H.

G. H. ! L. B.

M. H. G.H.

L.H.

61-
64-
65-
64-
72-
74-
72-
63-
67-
62-

i

M. H G. H.

L.H . jj M. 11.

G.H.

L. H.

January . .
February .

March

April

July

August

September
October . .
November
December

29-81

30-075

99-55

30-017

30-027

30-013

30-054

29-841

29-68

29-675

30-2

30-2

30-1

30-15

30-1

30-1

30-15

30-

30-

29-9

29-8

298

29-6

29-75

2995

29-95

29-85

29-7

29-55

29-4

64-66

(io-7

66-53

68-75

74-58

75-07

76*53

72-2

68-6

64-9

70-
63-
69-
72-

75-
77-
78-
77-
73-
68-

29-195 29-8
29-692,29-75
29-12 29-65
29-285 '29-4
29-775 29-9
29-875 30-1
29-887-29-95
29-386 30-1
29-915:30-05
29-797 29-9
29-875 3(1-05
j 29-843, 30-2

29-4

29-5

29-3

29-1

29-5

29-5

29-8

29-75

29-7

295

29-55

29-7

64-

63-8

66-5

66-45

66-23

69-06

73-

75-4

74-93

73-87

70-825

66-27

68-
67-
71-
68-
68-
72-
75-
78-
77-
77'
76-
74-

62-
61-
61-
65-
65-
65-

71-
72-
72-
70-
67-
64-

Dr. Heberden's Tables. Phil. Trans., x. abr., 1751, 232.

" Dr. Heberden goes on to give the mean height of the
barometer and thermometer at Funchal for each month of
the years 1751, 1752, 1753, which have but very small
differences and changes.

" By collecting the respective sums of the daily heights of
the instruments throughout the year, and extracting the mean
altitude, it is found that the mean altitude of the barometer
for each day is 29-915 inches, and of the thermometer
68°-918. The greatest thermometrical variation during the
said time has been 20°, viz., from 60° to 80°; but it may be
observed that it never rose so high but once, occasioned by a
very strong L'Este, or Levant wind, the extreme height,
without such an accident, being never more than 78°."

40

TABLES OF TEMPERATURE. — MASON.

CHAP. Ill

Dr. Mason's work furnishes the following data for the years
1834-1835 :—

1834 and 1835.

Mean.

Mean
maximum.

Mean
minimum.

Mean

monthly

range.

Maxi-
mum.

Mini-
mum.

Ex-
treme
range.

January ...
February . .
March,,",,,

July

August ...
September .
October ...
November .
December. .

0

60-24
61-12
63-43
65-39
67-97
69-44
71-68
72-78
72-16
69-49
6545
64-25

o

63-23
64-75
68-39
70-46
72-60
73-16
75-06
76-93
76-00
73-06
68-70'
66-80

0

57-26
57-50
58-48
60-33
63-35
65-73
68-28
68-64
68-32
65-93
62-20
61-71

o

5-97
7-25
9-81
10-13
9-25
7-43
6-77
8-29
7-68
7-13
6-50
5-09

o

65-
69-
71-
75-

77-5

80-

80-

80-

79-

77-

73-

72-

0

55-

55-

53-5

58-

61-

63-

66-

66-

66-

62-

57-

55-

0

10-

14-

17-5

17-

16-5

17-

14-

14-

13-

15-

16-

17"

Mean daily and nightly range throughout the year.

1834 and 1835.

Mean maxi-
mum in the
day.

Mean mini-
mum in the
day.

to

M

c

CG

Mean maxi-
mum in the
night.

Mean mini-
mum in the
night.

01

to
c
«

c
a

V

s

GJ

O /-

Km

0

68-66
74-50
80-00
76-33

o

61-00
65-00
71-33
68-00

o

7-66
9-50
8-67
8-33

o

6266
63-66
71-16
69-16

0

55-00
57-50
65-00
61-66

0

7-66
6-16
6-16
7-50

0

13-66
17-00
15-00
14-67

Spring

74-87

66-33

8-54

66-66

59-79

6-87

15-08

In the winter of 1847-8 the Rev. W. V. Harcourt made a
series of observations at a house near the Pontinha, about
eighty feet above the sea, which may be very advantageously
compared with a parallel series for the same period at Patj
observed by Professor Donkin. The following are the deduc-

CHAP. III. J

HARCOURT S. — DONKIN S.

41

tions from these series, as corrected by Ford from the data
which Mr. Glaisher has supplied :-

Deductions from Memoranda of the Temperature of Madeira, made by the
Rev. W. V. Hakcourt.

o

In

03

0>

01 3

a C
« 3

*> 2

2

£ 2

a v

— *J
M o> u

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J= —

.£PE

3

O

0)

9

oi

u

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41 .G

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es S

1847.

November ...

69-3

587

64-0

63-6

72

56

11

8

10

14

December ...

66-0

57-2

61-5

61-5

72

54

13

5

9

18

1848.

633

54-0

58-6

58-4

67

48

13

5

9

19

February . . .

64-4

55-2

59-8

59-4

68

51

15

5

9

17

65-3

53-4

59-3

58-3

70

49

16

7

12

21

663

54-0

60-2

58-7

70

51

19

6

12

19

Deductions from Memoranda of Temperature made at Pau by
Professor Donk;n.

1847.

November ...

Pi

g

41

s

c

o

o

g

41

— .

ge

03 CD
CD w

E
a

c

DO

o

CO

2

0)

E

13

C

to
01

o

47-2

53-3

62

33

December ...

41-1

48-0

59

27

1848.

33-3

38-0

57

23

February ...

43-1

509

70

29

439

50-9

60

38

?»

April

53-7

59-4

65

45

From these tables we find that the mean of the six months
at Madeira is 59*9, and the mean of the six months at Pau is
43-7.

42

RAIN.

[chap. III.

RAIN.

According to the authors of the "Physical Atlas," the mean
annual quantity of rain that falls at Funchal is 29 -82 inches,
of -which 48 per cent, falls in the winter, 17 per cent, in the
spring, 4 per cent, in the summer, and 31 per cent, in the
autumn. The rain that falls in the mountainous parts of Eng-
land, which is nearly double of what falls in the plains, stands
thus, by comparison : — 40-59 inches fall annually, of which
26 per cent, falls in the winter, ] 9 per cent, in the spring, 25
per cent, in the summer, and 30 per cent, in the autumn.

The following Table of Observations by Dr. Heberden
shows the quantity of rain which fell at Funchal in the years
1747, 1748, 1749, 1750:—

An. 1747.

1748.

1749.

1750.

Inch. Dec.

Inch. Dec.

Inch. Dec.

Inch. Dec.

February ...

20-525
•485

4-339
•528
•353

1-321
•200
•018
•540

•010

5-181

7-351

8-600

10-958

5-241

•722

•'420

2-700

•810

3-303

2-654

1-500

2-097

1-203

•932

•777

5-290

•113

•855
1-512
3-059
6-527

7-150

1-771

1-123

•039

1-087

•226

■176

•003

1-682

6-601

5-611

1-882

May

July

September ...

November ...
December ...

Total

40-851

37-508

22-365

27-351

Dr. Heberden's Table.

Dr. Heberden says, "The years 1749 and 1750 were such
dry years that the corn was destroyed, and the fruit trees
suffered much, particularly the peach trees ; the fruit either
falling to the ground whilst green, or, if it remained longer

CHAP. III.]

EAIX.

43

on the tree, being full of white worms. The quantity of rain
which fell in the seven years from 1747 to 1753 inclusive,
amounts to 214-346 inches. Therefore the mean quantity
for each year is 3062."

Dr. Mason's Observations give the following quantities for
1834, 1835: —

Day.

Night.

Days on

which

thunder

occurred.

1834 and 1835.

Days'
rain.

Hours'
rain.

Nights'
rain.

Hours'

rain.

January

February

14
9

S

10

2

6

7

3

5

10

18

10

74

21

32

63

24

40

6

5

25

103

79

56

6
1
5
5
2
2
0
1
4
7
13
10

45

12

46

39

22

21

0

2

42

93

108

111

2

3
3
1

March

April

May

July

August

September

October

November

December

Days.

1834-1835.

Winter.

Spring.

Summer.

Autumn.

Year.

Days rainy . .
Hours rainy. .

33
151 = 127

19
119 = 9-11

16
51 = 4-3

33
207 = 17-3

101
528 = 44-0

Nights.

Nights rainy .
Hours rainy. .

17
168 = 14-0

11
107 = 8-11

3
23=1-11

24
243 = 20-3

55
541 = 45-1

Great inequalities, however, subsist between one year and
another at Madeira in the distribution of the rain through
the seasons, though the general average does not much differ.
The amount of that which falls in the mountains is unknown.
In comparing the climate with those of more northern lati-
tudes it must be remembered that the frequency of the rain
here bears no proportion to its amount ; Dr. Macaulay has
computed that whilst it rains in London 178 days in the

44 DELUGES. — EAINY SEASON. Tchap. hi.

year, in Funchal it rains but 73 days *. The seasons in
which the least rain falls in winter are not those that are
considered the most healthy ; such winters are often followed
by wet springs ; the earth having been thoroughly baked and
heated by the previous drought yields a copious evaporation
when the rain comes, and this is presumed to render the
atmosphere more trying to delicate subjects.

DELUGES.

About once in every twenty-five years the island is subject
to deluges, which do great damage to the country. In 1803
there was a flood of this nature : the water came down with
so much violence as to give rise to the conjecture that a
water-spout had broken over the mountains. Whole houses
were washed into the sea with their inmates, and upwards of
five hundred souls were said to have perished in Funchal
alone. The church of N. S. do Calhao was swept away, and
the damage done to property was very great. Those who
were in the mountains fled to the city, aud those in the
city fled to the mountains : dismay was on every countenance,
and the inhabitants thought the end of the world was surely
come. On such occasions the water rolls down the ravines
in torrents, carrying in its course vast masses of rock that no
other power could move, short of an earthquake ; the noise is
so tremendous, that, standing near these rapids, you cannot
hear your neighbour speak, even if he puts his mouth to
your ear.

KAINY SEASON.

What is called the rainy season occurs generally in the
autumn and early spring, and lasts about three weeks ; even

* Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal, Oct., 1840.

chap, ni.j l'este. 45

then you can always get out of doors for some part of the day.
When the wind is in the north and east there is seldom much
rain ; if the wind goes round to the west by the south, a con-
tinuance of wet may be expected, but if by the north, it soon
veers round again, and there is not much rain.

l'este.

Madeira has its Sirocco, called by the natives L'Este, a
term expressive of the quarter from which the wind blows.
It bears so near a resemblance to the easterly wind known on
the opposite coast by the name of Harmattan, in its chief
peculiarities, that we may conclude it owes them to a similar
origin : like it, hot and dry, it is yet not insalubrious*. In-
valids find relief from its influence, though it is felt oppres-
sive by persons in health. It produces a parching of the
skin, and even curls up paper and the binding of books. If
you try to escape it by ascending the hills, you find it unmiti-
gated, and of the same hot, dry, relaxing quality. Meat and
milk will not keep whilst it lasts. Even in the hills, in
winter, and at an early hour of the morning, the thermo-
meter often stands at upwards of 70 degrees Fahrenheit
in the shade. In the summer of 1850 Dr. Lund observed
the thermometer stand at 91° F., at Santo Antonio da Serra,

* A curious example of the benign influence of the L'Este is given in an
account of the awful visitation of cholera during this year (1851) in the
Grand Canary, communicated by Mr. Houghton, H.B.M. Vice-Consul, and
which appeared in the "Times" of July 16. Mr. Houghton writes, "The
deaths during the night have materially declined in number, and it is said
that many of those who were in a desperate state overnight show symptoms
of improvement. I must here mention, that since the middle of the night
the weather has changed. We have now what is called here 'a levante,'
being a hot dry wind."

46 CLOUDS. [chap. in.

in the shade. Dr. Heberden's observations on the UEste,
Oct. 20, 1750, are as follows: —

Hours 10, 12, 4. Thermometer within doors, 73, 70, 77.
Do. exposed to the air, 81, 82, 77.

In the UEste of 1850, on the 28th of February, Mason's
hygrometer showed 18 degrees of dryness. It is invariably
accompanied by a haze, though less dense than that which
is said to characterize the Harmattan*. The cause of this
haze is not known, though it may probably be due to the
minute particles of red sand, which, when this wind blows
strong, may be seen plentifully deposited. Many curious
birds are blown over from the African coast by the UEste,
of which the oi'dinary direction is, by the compass, E.S.E.
It generally lasts about three, six, or nine days. After the
wind ceases rain almost invariably follows.

CLOUDS.

The clouds are so regular in their movements that it seems
as if these might be reduced to rule. Early in the morning,
the tops of the hills are generally clear; later in the day,
light clouds make their appearance, which presently unite,
generally to separate again, and break into those varied shapes
and masses which enhance so greatly the beauty of the
scenery. At nightfall the bank of clouds usually forms again,

* The nature of the Harmattan, of the Simoom, and of the Sirocco, is
sufficiently well known ; Josephus Acosta, lib. iii., cap. 9, mentions a wind
which he experienced in India in these words : — " The iron gates were
so rusted and consumed by a peculiar wind, that pressing the metal be-
tween your fingers, it would be dissolved and crumbled, as if it had been
hay or parched straw."

CHAF. Hi. J SUNSET. — SNOW. — DAMPNESS. 47

to be again gradually cleared away, leaving the nights bright
and lucid.

SUNSET.

An opinion prevails that exposure to the air at sunset
is dangerous to those who are in delicate health. The ther-
mometer shows no sudden change of temperature at that
time ; but it is possible that the loss of the direct rays of the
sun may induce a chill on sensitive frames, and justify a
medical caution.

The stars seem to have an unusual clearness in Madeira :
over the sea not many are distinctly visible, owing to the mist
which always at night hangs over the horizon. That beautiful
phenomenon the lunar rainbow is often seen to great per-
fection.

SNOW.

In the months of December, January, February, or March,
the hills, as low down as three thousand feet from then'
summits, are sometimes visited by snow, though it rarely lies
on the ground above two, or, at most, ten days at a time.
There is a large pit dug and covered over at the top of one of
the peaks, which has derived its name of the ice-house peak
from the use it is put to. Here the snow or hail is collected,
and hence the luxury of an ice is to be obtained in the pastry-
cook's shops at any time of the year. In Funchal, however,
frost is unknown : a fire is seldom requisite to guard against
either cold or damp.

DAMPNESS.

Whatever may be the moisture of the air, it is not sensible
as dampness to the feelings, and is certainly not unfavourable

48 SUMMER. [chap. hi.

to the healthy action of the lungs. The fault, in this re-
spect, found with many hot climates is a searching and
irritating dryness, and in England it has heen found ne-
cessary to temper the dry air of rooms, artificially warmed, by
the introduction of vapour. There may be spots in Madeira,
either near yam grounds where much irrigation is carried on,
or where the soil or rock, usually very porous, is so close as to
retain the wet, which may be too humid for some constitu-
tions ; but, for the greater part, in the neighbourhood of
Funchal, there is no visible excess of moisture : there is no
fog, and there is comparatively but little dew. If dampness
has ever been alleged as an objection to the salubrity of this
island, it must be regarded as a complaint due to the unlucky
choice of some dwelling-house unfavourably placed, or to the
common fastidiousness of ill-health.

" The verdant rising and the flowery hill,
The vale enamell'd, and the crystal rill,
The ocean rolling, and the shelly shore,
Beautiful objects, shall delight no more,
When the lax'd sinews of the weaken'd eye
In watery damps or dim suffusion lie."

No one now, I believe, thinks that climate can heal a
deep-rooted complaint; it may arrest incipient disease; it
may, and does, assuage the sufferings of many whom it
cannot cure. In extreme cases, it would, indeed, often
be but useless cruelty to bring the invalid to die at a
distance from his natural home ; yet there are instances
in which, beyond expectation, patients have been kept alive
by so benignant a climate after they had been all but given
over by the faculty for many years. The dying invalid has
here all that climate can do ; the patient can be carried out in
his hammock, and draw the pure air of heaven with his last

chap, in.] SUMMER. 49

breath. The cases in which Madeira does real good are those
in which a person whose lungs are threatened, or incipiently
diseased, repairs thither immediately, and follows out ra-
tionally the mode of life prescribed by his doctor, is at home
by sunset, abstains from going out to parties at night, does
not expose himself to the alternations of weather, to ex-
citement, or fatigue : then, with God's blessing, the hand of
death is often stayed, the constitution is invigorated, and care
and time work out what climate had begun. It is marvel-*
lous to see how some people will go to Madeira, as if for their
health, and live there in a way which must make the best
climate in the world useless.

SUMMEB.

The summer in Madeira is said to do the invalid even more
good than the winter. No one thinks of remaining in Fun-
chal during this season. The residents generally move up to
the high lands in the beginning of June, and go down again
to the town, for the winter, in the beginning of October.
Certain it is, that the benefit of a winter in Madeira is often
neutralized by the subsequent summer spent in England.
This of course must depend in some degree upon the season.
Perhaps our changeable climate, even at its best, is irritating
to a system spoilt for it by one so much its superior, till the
recovery of health is confirmed by a residence in Madeira
of sufficient duration to have rendered it proof against sudden
changes. There is perhaps no country in the world, enjoying
so much warmth in the winter as Madeira, which is also blest
by the absence of oppressive heat in the summer *.

* Prosper Alpinus, lib. i., cap. 6, in his treatise De Medicina JSgyptiorum,
tells us that at Grand Cairo, where he practised medicine, though that city is
six degrees distant from the tropics, the air in summer is almost insupport-
ably hot, and in winter sometimes very cold.

D

50 LONGEVITY. [chap. hi.

LONGEVITY.

Judging from the registrar's return of deaths in Madeira,
one would say the people are comparatively short lived.
There are reasons for this peculiar to the native popula-
tion, and not leading to any just inference against the healthi-
ness of the climate when fairly tested. The inhabitants are
poorly fed, poorly clothed, and hard-worked. At the age when
most nourishment is required, least is often obtained. The
growing child frequently lives on cabbage broth. The natives
are also subject, from their habits, to very sudden alterna-
tions of temperature, and to exposure to wet and cold, from
which the kind of garments that they wear is a poor pro-
tection. Men, women, and children, having been employed
from sunrise in collecting fuel, amid soaking mists and pierc-
ing blasts in the mountains, carry clown their burdens, under
the heat of a mid-day sun, into the warm town for sale, and
then return to their cold mountain dwellings. What consti-
tution could stand this long ? and, when insufficient feeding
is added, is it to be wondered at, that few attain to an advanced
age ? By studying the returns it will be found that there is
less longevity, in proportion, in the northern and colder parts
of the island ; and the parish of Santa Anna, which is remark-
able for mist and rain, is remarkable also for a shorter average
of life. The clothing, too, is of the scantiest nature ; it is
never varied in proportion to heat, cold, or damp, and the
wretched huts in which the people live are ill calculated to
keep out the weather *.

* Hear the words of the Governor of Madeira, speaking of the labouring
classes: — "At the age of sixty the constitution generally breaks down, few
are able to work at seventy, and many, in the country districts, are entirely
incapacitated for labour at fifty. In the city and villages it is rare to see the
physical and intellectual powers impaired by premature hard work ; in the
country, however, you meet with many examples of mis-shapen people,

chap, in.] POPULATION. 51

Put out of the question that disease over which no climate
has any control, namely, want, and Madeira is very healthy.
It is free from most of the distempers which scourge hot
countries, and those which are virulent in more northern
latitudes only appear there in the mildest forms. Diseases
imported from other countries, such as small pox, scarlet
fever, measles, &c, have at various times had their run
here, hut never remained long. Quarantine regulations
are sometimes very strictly, and to visitors somewhat vexa-
tiously, carried out *. The cholera has not as yet reached
this island.

POPULATION.

The population, according to the census of 1835, was
115,446. In one made in 1743 the number of persons
returned as seven years old and upwards was 48,234, from
which it was inferred by Dr. Heberden that the total number

whose growth premature bodily labour has either stunted or distorted, ex-
tending its fatal effects through the whole of their, generally, short existence."
* Experience in the Canary Islands seems to justify such caution. Mr.
Houghton says, in his letter, " You are aware that during the prevalence of
this epidemic in Europe, even when it reached Cadiz, these islands, as well
as Madeira, were preserved intact. The usual course of the winds is from
that direction ; there has been no change noted in this respect within these
last months. The cholera has latterly been making great ravages in the
West Indies, a position diametrically opposed to the current of the air. It
appears, therefore, almost impossible that we should have received the germ
of this destroyer simply through the atmosphere. The credited reports
here tend to a contrary opinion. About the 8th or 9th of May a vessel
arrived from Havannah with a clean bill of health, and was consequently
admitted to pratique without any preliminary fumigation. It is said that
the first house in San Jose (a suburb principally inhabited by poor people)
in which this disease made its appearance was that of a washerwoman who
had taken the mattress and foul clothes of one of the poorer passengers to
wash, and that her children slept upon them during the night. Death soon
followed ; one neighbour after another was attacked ; the seed had found its
appropriate soil, and slowly, but too surely, germinated, and when the air
was sufficiently contaminated its fatal effects were generalized."

D 2

52 POPULATION. [chap. in.

in that year was 53,057. The people, therefore, have little
more than doubled themselves in a century. When we con-
sider that in our own country the population has doubled
itself in about half that period, and that our increase is con-
siderably slower not only than that of the New World, but of
many of the anciently-peopled countries of Europe, and when
we consider also the general healthiness of the climate of
Madeira, and the small amount of emigration winch, till the
year 1835, has occurred there, this must appear an extra-
ordinary circumstance *.

Dr. Heberden, in 1767, reasoning from the census of that
year as compared with the returns of 1743, conceived that
the duplicate proportion would have been reached in eighty-
four years f; but it appears that in the following year the
population, instead of increasing, diminished from 64,614
to 63,913. In that year it is stated \ that 2198 children
were born, and that 5243 persons died. In 1835, 4102
births were registered, and 2751 deaths, making an increase
in the population of 1351 souls. In 1839, 4671 were bom
and 3962 died ; the increase therefore was 709. In 1843, 4627
were bom and 2883 died ; the increase was 1744. In 1847,
3452 were bom and 3252 died; the increase was 200. In
1849, 3988 were bom and 2293 died ; the increase was 1695 §.

* Malthus, writing in 1803, 0>ook iii. chap. xi. p. 476,) says, "If we
could obtain accurate bills of mortality in those southern countries, where
very few women remain unmarried, and all marry young, the proportion of
annual deaths would be 1 in 17, 18, or 20, instead of 1 in 34, 36, or 40, as
in European states."

+ Phil. Trans., xii. abr. 1767, 475.

% Forsler's Voyage round the World, under Capt. Cook, 1792, vol. i. p. 16.
§ Census taken in 1767.

Christened in 8 years . 17,611
Buried „ . 10,351

Medium for each year 2,201 1

Octennial increase 7,260 | Annual increase 907|

CHAP. III. J

POPULATION.

53

It should seem from these particulars that there are periods
of excessive mortality, which, amongst other causes, have

Proportion of the yearly births to the number of persons, as 1 to 29-35
„ „ burials . . . . as 1 to 49*89

„ births to burials

„ males born to females

„ females buried to males

Weddings each year at a medium
Proportion of weddings to births .

„ „ burials

The mortality of spring and summer to that of autumn

and winter

as 100 to 58-77

as 100 to 96-39

as 108-33 to 100

. 470§

as 1 to 4-68

as 1 to 2-75

as 115 to 100

Census taken in 1835

Population of Madeira .
„ Porto Santo

Total

Births ....
Deaths ....

Increase of Population

Census taken in 1839
Population of Madeira .

!)

Porto Santo

Total

Births .

• •

Deaths .

* • *

Increase of Population
Census taken in 1843.

113,828
1,618

115,446

4,102
2,751

1,351

114,147
1,614

115,761

4,671
3,962

709

Population
>>

of Madeira
Porto Santo

Total

117,372
1,669

Births .
Deaths .

119,041

4,627
2,883

Increase of Population

1,744

54

EMIGRATION.

[CHAP. III.

kept down the population. What may have been the cause,
in 1768, of the decrease of population, is not recorded ;
but in 1839 the greater mortality is to be attributed to
small pox, and in 1847 to the famine which then visited the
island.

Under these circumstances, the policy of the Government
appears to have been rather to repress than encourage emi-
gration ; and the fees exacted before a licence to emigrate can
be obtained are very large. When the great demand for
labour in Demerara occasioned the offer of a considerable
premium to volunteers from Madeira, many of the young
men were tempted to leave their families, and were sur-
reptitiously smuggled on board the emigrant ships. These
emigrants are reported to have made excellent labourers ; but
it is said also, that, overworking themselves under a tropical
sun, they contracted the diseases of a climate in which the
negro alone is capable of enduring much labour, and died by

Census taken in 1847
Population of Madeira

Porto Santo
Total

Births
Deaths

Increase of Population
Census taken in 1849.

Population of Madeira .
„ Porto Santo

Total

Births

Deaths .....

Increase of Population

104,747
1,739

106,486

3,452
3,252

200

108,274
1,810

110,084

3,988
2,293

1,695

chap, mj EMIGEATION. 55

hundreds. Of the survivors, some went to America, some
returned to their own country, and some, withdrawing
themselves from the fields, proved very serviceable in other
works about the town arid wharfs. The first emigration,
as has been before observed, took place in the year 1835, dur-
ing which year about 1200 persons left Madeira. Emigration
then ceased for a time, till the year 1840, when it was
vigorously resumed. At the end of the year 1847 it again
ceased. Government returns state that up to this time
5435 persons had emigrated, that is to say, that 5435 persons
had paid the heavy emigration fees ; perhaps three or four
times that number actually left the country. During the years
1848 and 1849 there was scarcely any emigration; but in
June, 1850, a premium, though a lower one, was again
offered, and emigration recommenced actively. The Madeira
Government, finding it could not stop the evil, as they
supposed it to be, made a remission, though to a trifling
extent, of the fees on emigration. It is estimated that, from
1835 to the present time, nearly 35,000 persons have gone
from Madeira to Demerara, St. Vincent, Antigua, Trinidad,
Grenada, Jamaica, and St. Kitt's.

CHAPTEE IV.

THE HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND MANNERS

MADEIRA.

From a Sketch by Ludy Smart Vernon Harcowt.

Group of Peasants.

Sec page HO

CHAPTER IV.

ON THE HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND MANNERS OF MADEIRA.

" Th' historic Muse, from age to age,
Through many a waste, heart-sickening page,
Hath traced the works of man."

Keble.

Ancient history. — Re-discovery of Madeira Cape Bojador. — Columbus. —

History of Machim. — Governors appointed. — Allotment of land. — Original
government. — Death of Zarco. — Funchal constituted a city. — Invasion
by French privateers. — Madeira passes into the dominion of Spain. —
English possession. — Dom Miguel. — Ecclesiastical affairs. — Bishop ap-
pointed.— Ecclesiastical courts. — Salary of the clergy. — Diocese of Fun-
chal.— Monastic establishments. — Religious societies. — Places of educa-
tion.— Public institutions. — Judicial division of Madeira. — Civil governor.
— Judges.- — Criminals. — Laws of inheritance. — Public revenues.— Go-
vernment monopolies. — Military affairs. — Roads. — Elections. — Habita-
tions of the poor. — Dress. — Beauty. — Manufactures.

ANCIENT HISTORY.

It does not appear that any of the islands which lie on the
western coast of Africa, at a distance from the Continent,
were certainly known to the ancients till about the com-
mencement of the Christian era. Strabo blamed the Alex-
andrian geographer, Eratosthenes, for having given credit to
fabulous tales concerning an island named Cerrie, supposed to
have been discovered beyond the pillars of Hercules in an
exploring expedition of the Carthaginians, conducted by
Hanno *, and though there seems no reason to doubt that the

* The voyage of Hanno, according to Dodwell (Dissert, de Peripli Han-
nonis, torn. i. edit. Oxon.), took place at some time between the 92nd and
129th Olympiad.

D 3

58 ANCIENT HISTORY. [chap. iv.

African shores were explored far to the southward hy that
leader, who, on his return, as Pliny tells us, hung up in the
temple of Saturn a register of his discoveries ; and, more-
over, in the temple of Juno, as evidence of their truth, two
skins of female Gorgons covered with hair, which remained
there till the destruction of Carthage ; yet the Greek account
of this voyage, which has come down to us is so mixed with
fiction, and accords so ill with the known geography of the
coast, that Strabo did but show the usual soundness of his
judgment in rejecting its authority. After the fall of Carthage
a survey of these seas was undertaken by the Roman general,
historian, and geographer, Polybius, who likewise found an
island, to which he assigned the name of Cerne ; but it was
one which lay not more than a mile from the shore.

By the time, however, that Augustus Caesar ruled the
Roman Empire, when that literary sovereign governed the
kingdoms of Mauritania, of whom it was said that he was
" still more memorable for the renown of his studies than for
the extent of his dominions," the fragments which remain of
his geographical delineations prove that both the Canary and
the Madeira Islands were then distinctly known.

" Juba," says Pliny, " has given this as the result of his
investigations concerning the Fortunate Islands, that they are
situate in the south, towards the west, 320 miles from the
Purple Islands, so as that the navigation lies for Q50 miles
above the sunset (i. e. south-west) ; then for 70 miles the
course is eastward. The first island, called Ombrion, has no
traces of buildings. On its hills is a piece of standing water.
It bears trees resembling a ferula, from which is expressed a
water, bitter from the black species, but from those of a
whiter colour pleasant to drink. Another island is called
Junonia, and on it there is one little building of stone.

chap, iv.] ANCIENT HISTORY. 59

Near this is a smaller island of the same name. Then Ca-
praria, full of great lizards. In sight of them is Nivaria,
taking its name from perpetual snow, and covered with clouds.
Next to that, Canada, so called from a multitude of dogs of
great size, two of which were brought to Juba ; and traces of
habitations appear there. As they all abound in plenty of
apples, and birds of every kind, so this abounds in date-
bearing palms, and in the nut of the pine tree."

No one who is acquainted with the snoiv-capped and cloudy
peak of Teneriffe, the date-palms, and the pine trees with
edible nuts, still growing in that island, and who remembers
that at the time of the Spanish invasion flocks of goats
formed the chief possessions of the Guanches, and that the
dwelling of that people, according to the Spanish authors,
was, in general, not in houses, but in the rocks, can fail to
recognise the Canaries in this description. But if we are
certain that the Fortunate Islands of Juba are the same with
our Canaries, in that case it is impossible not to identify also
his Purple Islands with our Madeiras. For the course and
distance here stated of 250 miles south westerly, would bring
a vessel to the most western of the Canaries, whilst the 70
miles from Madeira, easterly course, would sweep a great part
of the remainder of the group.

We are further informed by Pliny that these Purple
Islands, also called by him the Mauritanian Islands, were
" over against the Axitotoles,'" opposite, that is, to the western
coast of Morocco, that they were " few in number," that they
were " discovered by Juba," and that he had projected the
carrying on in them a manufacture for dying the Goetulian
purple : hence, doubtless, the name of the Purple Islands.
Whether any of the various shell-fish from which the much-
prized Goetulian purple was extracted frequent the shores of

60 ANCIENT HISTORY. [chap. iv.

the Madeiras it might be worth while to inquire * ; but in the
meanwhile, supposing such materials for dyeing not to exist
there, it migbt not be improbable that Juba's traders had
found on the rocks of the Dezertas the plant which furnishes
us at this day with the most beautiful purples, the Orchil, or
Lachmus tinctorius. Tbat learned king, we know, was a
curious inquirer into the properties of plants, for it is men-
tioned by Pliny that it was he who discovered the Euphorbium
in the vicinity of Mount Atlas, and recommended it as a
collyrium for the eyes, and it seems likely enough that he
may have speculated on substituting the fine violet dye of the
vegetable Orchil for that of the animal Purpura.

It is probable tbat the " Erythia," or Red Island of
Ptolemy, may have owed its name to the same circumstance
which gave their denomination to the " Purple Islands " of
Pliny, and may have been regarded as one of them. The
latitude of 29 degrees, assigned by Ptolemy to this island,
agrees best with that of the Salvages ; whilst the latitude of
3'2 degrees, which his tables give for the island " Paina"
(to be read, perhaps, Poina, i. e. Punica), corresponds per-
fectly with that of Madeira; and this ancient geographer
seems, therefore, only to have misplaced these islands, so far
as their longitude is concerned, in assigning to Erythia that
of 7 degrees, and to Poena of 5 degrees, an error apparently
due to his having fixed his first meridian, though the most
westerly of the Fortunate Isles, a few degrees too far to the
westward.

* If any species of Manx or Buccinum can be found on these shores, it
should be carefully examined for the green juice described by ancient au-
thors, which, on exposure to air, turns first to lilac, and then to a red
purple.

chap. iv.J RE-DISCOVERY OF MADEIRA. 61

RE-DISCOVERT OF MADEIRA.

Under the Roman rule, after the fall of Carthage, all com-
munication with the Atlantic Islands ceased, and it was re-
served for the great Dom Henry* to re-establish the com-
munication of Europe with the Madeiras. Cordeyro, in his
Historia Tnsulana f , says that some attribute the discovery of
Porto Santo to certain Frenchmen and Spaniards, but he
gives no credit to the tale.

Prince Henry, fourth \ son of King John (of Portugal), in
trying his fortune against the Moors, having made ac-
quaintance with Morocco, was led to push his enterprises
still further. In the year 1419 § he sent an expedition to
attempt the doubling of Cape Bojador||. Joao Goncalves
Zarco andTristao Vaz Teixeira, who were in command of the
expedition, were driven so far off shore that all reckoning
was lost, when at daybreak they saw an island before them,
which they called Porto Santo, to commemorate their deliver-
ance. On their return Prince Henry sent out Zarco, Vaz,
and Pestrello to plant a colony on the new island. It was
not long before a dark spot was observed on the western
horizon of Porto Santo. This was regarded by some with
superstitious awe ; but Zarco concluded it to be clouds at-
tracted by high land 11, and shaping his course in that direc-
tion, in spite of the endeavours of his crew, by menaces
and supplications, to prevent him, he discovered, in the year

* Faria y Sousa, torn. i. c. 1.

f Lib. iii., Das Ilhas de Porto Santo & Madeyra, p. 62. Lisb. 1717.

$ Mariana (edit. 1592), Hist, de reb. Hisp., b. 18, chap. ix.

§ Barros, Dec. I., 1. i. cap. 2.

|| So called from the Spanish, bojar, to compass or go about.

U Alcaforado.

62 CAPE BOJADOR. [chap. iv.

1420 *, the island to which, from the trees that covered it,
he gave the name of Madeira^.

From these events we may date the commencement of that
great epoch of maritime adventure which raised Portugal to
the rank of one of the chief nations of Europe, and paved
the way to the discovery of the New World.

CAPE BOJADOR.

It was not till twelve years } after the discovery of Madeira
that the doubling of Cape Bojador was accomplished. It is
not a little remarkable, as Rennell observes, that the Portu-
guese, the best mariners at that day, should have found so
much difficulty in accomplishing a task which had been often
performed by ancient navigators.

COLUMBUS.

Gomara and other Spanish writers affirm that Columbus
was a resident in Madeira. Juan de Mariana relates " that a
certain ship was driven from the coast of Africa by a tempest
to unknown lands. The storm at length abated, and the
ship was cast upon the island of Madeira. There was by
chance on that island one Christopher Columbus, a Genoese
by birth, who had married in Portugal, and was a very ac-

* Azur, cap. 83.

+ " The word Madeira has the same signification as the Lat. Materia,
from which it is only vernacularised, the Portuguese frequently substituting
d for the Lat. t, and transposing the r from its situation with its connecting
vowel ; of which we need give no more familiar instances than -padre and
fradre for pater and frater, when used in a spiritual sense. That materia is
the classical term for forest trees, we have the authority of Caesar, in his
Commentaries, who remarks of Britain, ' Materia cujusque generis, ut in
Gallia, est ; prater fagum et abietem.' " — Rees' Cyclopaedia, art. Madeira.

J Faria y Sousa.

chap, iv.] COLUMBUS. 63

complisbed navigator — a man of a great heart and lofty
thoughts. The captain of the ship put Columbus in pos-
session of the memorandums of bis voyage, which first in-
spired him -with a desire to visit those parts." Though we
may doubt the truth of this tale, still the connection of Co-
lumbus with the Madeiras may very likely have sown the
seed of his subsequent discoveries. His wife was a daughter
of Pestrello, who had been engaged in discovering the islands
of Porto Santo and Madeira. Columbus, it is said, got pos-
session of the journals and charts of his father-in-law, and
from them learned the course the Portuguese had held in their
discoveries, as well as what they found to guide and encourage
them in their attempts. Whilst he read the accounts of new
countries and new people the flame of his favourite passion
was fanned, and the wish to embark on adventures of bis
own became paramount in bis mind. His first voyage was to
Madeira*, and he continued for several years to trade with
that island, with the Azores, the settlements in Guinea, and

all the other places which the Portuguese had discovered on

the continent of Africa.

The following romantic story of the first re-discovery of

Madeira is said to have been told by Alcaforado, who

flourished a few years after the colony was first settled

here |.

* Robertson's Life of Columbus, ch. iv. v.

f Alcaforado's story was translated into French, and published in Paris
in the year 1671, in a work called Relation Historiqite de la Decouverte de
flsle de Madera, traduit du Portugais. The translator says of his author,
" Personne ne pouvait reussir mieux que lui dans sa narration de cette
avanture, puis qu'il assista en personne a la decouverte qui fut faite ensuite.
Dom Francois Manuel en garde l'original manuscrit avec beaucoup de soin,
c'est lui a qui nous avons l'obligation d'en avoir fait part au public en sa
langue."

64 HISTORY OF MACH1M. [chap. IV.

HISTORY OF MACHIM.

An Englishman, of obscure birth, named Robert Machim,
who lived in the latter part of the reign of Edward III., fell
in love with Anna DArfet, a beautiful damsel of a noble
family. Her father, incensed with his presumption, obtained
the imprisonment of the lover, and married his daughter to a
more illustrious suitor. The bridegroom, however, having
left his castle near Bristol to attend the king in his wars,
Machim, when released, procured access to Anna, and per-
suaded ber to escape with him to France. They sailed with-
out a pilot for the coast of Bretagne, but, a storm arising,
lost their reckoning, and after running for ten days before
the gale, at length discovered in the horizon the coast of
Madeira, and landed, in the year 1346, in a bay afterwards
named Machico from him.

Another storm drove Machim's vessel from its anchorage,
leaving those who had landed from it in such distress, that
the lady died of grief, and Machim, refusing all food, did not
long survive her, and was buried in the same grave. The
rest, having ornamented the tomb with a large wooden cross,
and placed near it an inscription which Machim had pre-
pared, requesting the first Christians who might read it to
raise a chapel on the spot, took to their boat, and being car-
ried to the coast of Barbary, were made captives by the
Moors. Whilst in captivity, they related their adventures and
described the position of Madeira to a fellow-captive, who
afterwards communicated the facts to a Spanish pilot called
Morales, in the employ of Goncalves Zarco.

This tale, it should appear, was not deemed worthy of no-
tice by the Portuguese historian De Barros, who ascribes the

chap, iv.] GOVERNORS APPOINTED. — ALLOTMENT OF LAND. 65

discovery of the island entirely to Goncalves Zarco and
Tristram Vaz ; nor will it, I fear, go far to authenticate it,
that a hit of the cedar cross is still shown in the chapel at
Machico, which is said to have been built over the grave of
the lovers, or that there was a Padre, till lately living at
Canical, who said he remembered under the altar the roots of
an old tree, the same, it is presumed, beneath which they died.
Yet that some such story had reached the ears of Zarco is
accredited by the fact, if it be one, that he * named the place.
of his first anchorage " Porto dos Inglezes" and on his second
voyage changed it to that of " Porto de Machico." Antonio
Galuano, in his chronicles of Portuguese discoveries up to
1550, gives a different version of this same story ; he relates
that Machim escaped after the death of Anna, in a boat
which was picked up on the coast of Africa by the Moors, and
was sent as a curiosity to Henry III., King of Castile.

GOVERNORS APPOINTED.

As soon as its discoverers had sobered down sufficiently
from the first burst of joy, with which the announcement of
her new acquisition was hailed in Portugal, to turn their
minds to colonization and government, Joao Goncalves Zarco
and Tristao Vaz Teixeira were dispatched to Madeira, with a
few nobles who volunteered to accompany them.

ALLOTMENT OF LAND.

To Zarco were committed the western and southern por-
tions of the island, with Funchal for a capital; and to Vaz
the eastern and northern half, where he established himself
at Machico. The lands in the two captaincies were divided
by option amongst the nobles and gentlemen who accompa-

* Encycl. Metrop., vol. viii. p. 643.

06 ORIGINAL GOVERNMENT, ETC. [chap. iv.

nied the expedition. From these lords of the soil the most
distinguished families in Madeira are descended. The la-
bouring class has been derived partly from their adherents,
partly from the disowned of the mother country, and from
Moorish captives ; there have been also subsequent admix-
tures of African and Negro blood, which shows itself strongly
in the features of some of the present inhabitants.

ORIGINAL GOVERNMENT.

To the two Governors was committed all jurisdiction, civil
and military, within their respective captaincies ; in cases of
life and death only was there appeal to Lisbon. Absolute
monopoly, and a tithe of all crown revenue, were also be-
stowed upon the captains and their heirs for ever, under the
title of donatorios.

DEATH OF ZARCO.

The first Governor of Funchal enjoyed his rule for forty-
seven years, executed many useful works, and left the name
of Zarco universally respected. His remains are deposited in
the convent of Santa Clara.

FUNCHAL CONSTITUTED A CITY.

In 1508 Funchal was invested with the dignities and privi-
leges of a city. In 1 540 the captaincy of Machico, in de-
fault of heirs, reverted to the crown ; the king bestowed it on
Antonio de Menezes.

INVASION BY FRENCH PRIVATEERS.

In 1566 (during the government of Simao Goncal ves da
Camera, the fifth captain) three French privateers made
their appearance off Funchal. The marauders effected a

chap, iv.] ENGLISH POSSESSION. 67

landing in the bay of Praya Formosa, and, after a short
struggle on the part of the inhabitants, made themselves
masters of the city. On the first alarm, a small Mate* had
succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the pirates, and making
its way with the news to Lisbon. The inhabitants fled from the
town, leaving it to be sacked by the invaders ; much gold and
silver and many jewels were collected together, and the three
vessels sailed away at the end of fifteen days with their spoil,
just before the long wished-for succour arrived from Lisbon.

MADEIRA PASSES INTO THE DOMINION OF SPAIN.

Dom Sabastiao was killed in battle, in Africa, in the year
1578, and in the year 1580 the Philips began to govern in
Portugal ; Madeira fell, with the mother country, under the
dominion of Spain : one governor was appointed by its new
masters over the whole island, to whom sole authority was
given in the administration of public affairs. The donatorios
were not deprived of their rights in matters of revenue, and
the governor was paid by the crown. The Spanish rule,
however, bore heavily on commerce, and it was not till that
yoke was shaken off under Dom Joao IV. in 1640 that trade
revived and the island recovered its prosperity.

ENGLISH POSSESSION.

From this time no political event of importance seems to
have occurred in the history of the colony, till the English, in
the year 1801, under Clinton, and again in 1807, under
Beresford, to prevent the danger of French occupation, at a
crisis when the rights of neutrals were little respected, took
the island under their protection, and the Union Jack for a
short time waved from its forts.

* A sort of " fore and aft" rigged vessel.

68 DOM MIGUEL. ECCLESIASTICAL AFFAIRS. [chap. iv.

DOM MIGUEL.

In 1828 Dom Miguel having occupied the throne of Por-
tugal, Madeira also came under the same rule, and on his
expulsion in 1834, it acknowledged in like mauner the title
of Donna Maria Segundo. In 1847 a popular emeute in
favour of the liberal constitution of 1820 displaced the
government for a few weeks, but by the united intervention
of England and France it was restored without bloodshed.

ECCLESIASTICAL AFFAIRS.

The spiritualities of the island are vested in the Order of
Christ *, and the sovereign, as grand master of the order,
presents to the bishopric, the cathedral offices, canonries,
vicarages, and benefices ; the church preferment is only tem-
porarily filled up by the bishop of the diocese. By the law
of the 26th of March, 1843, the benefices then vacant, or
those which might thereafter become vacant, in the districts
of the nine collegiate churches of the island, could not be
filled up, their revenues being set aside by that law for the
increase of poor livings, and the establishment of new cura-
cies. This object has been in part carried out by a law of
the 24th of June, 1848. The nine collegiate churches are
the following : — Santa Maria Maior, Sa? Pedro, Camera de
Lobos, Pdbeira Brava, Ponta do Sol, Calheta, Machico, Sancta
Cruz, and Porto Santo.

* " L'ordre militaire de Christ, institue, comrae on l'a dit, par Denis I.,
Roi de Portugal, l'an 1319, fut confirme par le Pape Jean XXII., qui donna
aux chevaliers la regie de S. Benoit. Mais Alexandre VI. leur permit de
se marier. lis sont vetus de blanc, et portent sur la poitrine une croix
patriarchale de gueules, chargee d'une autre croix d'argent. La Grande
Maitrise de l'ordre est reunie a. la couronne de Portugal." — L'Art de verifier
les Dates. Paris, 1783, vol. i. p. 780.

chap, iv.] BISHOP APPOINTED. ECCLESIASTICAL COURTS. 69

The Ecclesiastical division of the island now compre-
hends 50, instead of 46 parishes ; the hishop of the diocese
having found it necessary to increase the number, in con-
sequence of the large population and size of some of the old
parishes.

The first church built in the island was that at Machico.
After Zarco had removed to the government of Funchal, he
erected another church, which he dedicated to N. S. de Cal-
hao ; this was washed away by the flood of 1800. The next
built was the chapel of Santa Catherina.

BISHOP APPOINTED.

In 1514 Funchal, which had hitherto been ruled by a
vigario, was raised to a bishopric, and the cathedral was
erected ; in 1539 it was advanced still further to the rank of
an archbishopric, but the archiepiscopal see was afterwards
removed to Goa, and a bishop again appointed in 1547.

ECCLESIASTICAL COURTS.

Formerly the Church had a court of its own, in which all
ecclesiastical causes, whether civil or criminal, were tried.
A special prison for the clergy was attached to it. This
court and prison were abolished by the constitution of 1822.
In the Ecclesiastical Court, as at present existing, the bishop
is only empowered to suspend a clergyman, convicted of any
offence, from the exercise of his office ; but he cannot deprive
any one, canonically collated to a benefice, without the ap-
proval of the government of Lisbon, to whom the pleadings
and sentence of the ordinary are forwarded. Where the
case is one for which the legislature has provided a punish-
ment, the pleadings are forwarded to the Jiciz de Direito,
who puts the law of the land into execution. A suit between

70 SALARY OF THE CLERGY. — DIOCESE OF FUNCHAL. [chap. iv.

a clergyman and a citizen is carried on in the civil courts,
and a clergyman committing any criminal act is, on convic-
tion, imprisoned in the common gaol, like any other trans-
gressor.

SALARY OF THE CLERGY.

The Bishop of Funchal receives an annual net stipend,
free from government taxes on all salaries, of £412 JOs.; the
rest of the clergy receive their stipends principally in wine
and wheat, with a small proportion in money. The govern-
ment receives the large and small tithes of Madeira and
Porto Santo, making distribution to the clergy.

DIOCESE OF FUNCHAL.

The diocese of Funchal comprises the islands of Madeira
and Porto Santo ; the islands of the Dezertas and Salvages,
on which there are at present no permanent inhabitants ;
and the fortress of Argium on the African coast, of which the
diocesan of Funchal is merely titular bishop. The eccle-
siastical body of Madeira consists of the following clergy: —

lstly. The bishop, whose staff is composed of a provisor,
who is one of the canons; a vicar-general, who is professor of
dogmatic theology at the seminario or priests' college ; a pro-
motor, who is an honorary canon ; an escrivdo, of the Eccle-
siastical Court ; and a muririho, an under officer of the same
court.

2ndly. The cathedral clergy *, composed of a dean ; an
archdeacon ; three canonical dignitaries ; twelve canons ;
four minor canons, having half stalls or prebends; two
curates yparochos); ten chaplains (cantores); and one sub-
chanter ; besides which there are — six chorister boys ; an

* Of this cathedral staff there are six canonries and two minor canonries
vacant, which will probably never be filled up.

chap, iv.] MONASTIC ESTABLISHMENTS, ETC. 71

altareiro; a master of the ceremonies; a mestre da capella
da musica; a sacristan; a mace bearer; and a bell-ringer.

3rdly. There are 145 presbyters, including those in the
cathedral; 1 deacon; 16 minor clergy (clericos in minoribus);
42 vicars; 38 curates; and 5 beneficiados.

MONASTIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

In 1835 there existed in Funchal three convents: one
dedicated to Senhora das Merces, called Capuchas, with 26
nuns in it; Santa Clara, with 46 nuns ; Incarna^ao, with
30 nuns and 4 pupils; the two latter of the Franciscan order;
besides five monasteries. These establishments are in pro-
cess of dissolution : the monks have all disappeared, and the
monasteries are no more ; the convents are still in existence,
but the nuns are fast dying off. The suppression of such pro-
perty, supposing no vested interests to be violated, and the
revenues reserved for other spiritual purposes, may be for the
public advantage. The poor, indeed, can be no longer re-
lieved at the convent gate ; but experience has shown that
indiscriminate alms promote beggary as much as they relieve
want, and if a public provision for the indigent, involving
some test, were substituted, the people would profit by the
change. Though we may be excused for admiring mo-
nasteries as things of yore, for the good which they did
in their day, yet it would be a very different thing to wish
them back again, and to shut one's eyes to all the abuses
of the svstem.

EELIGIOUS SOCIETIES.

There are two brotherhoods, Irmandades, still existing in
Funchal for religious purposes— one of the Carmelite, and
the other of the Franciscan order. Either sex are admis-

72 PLACES OF EDUCATION. [chap. iv.

sible, and each member pays a small sum towards the main-
tenance of the order. When any of the Trmandade die, a
number of the order attend the funeral : they accompany the
Host, attend religious processions, &c. The contributions
to these brotherhoods, and the management of the revenues
arising from properties left to them, are in the hands of
twelve of the corporation. The funds are applied to the
preservation and decoration of churches, the fulfilling of the
pious obligations imposed by benefactors, and the mainte-
nance of Divine worship. These treasurers are accountable
for their stewardship to the civil governor of the island.

PLACES OF EDUCATION.

There is a Seminario, or Priests' College, intended for the
education of all those who purpose entering holy orders,
under the management of a Reitor and Prefeito. It was
established for twelve collegiates, preference being given to
persons from the country. The College is in possession of con-
siderable property in the parishes of Camera de Lobos, Estreito
de Camera de Lobos, Machico, Sa.° Pedro, and elsewhere.
From these lands it receives wheat, wines, and other produce.
Government contributes £303 13s. Ad. annually to its sup-
port. Commodious premises, capable of containing eighteen
inmates, are connected with the establishment, where the
students are domiciled, educated, and fed : two only of the
students at present pay for their education. The course of
study consists of Latin, dogmatic theology, morals, and
music.

There is a medico-chirurgical school, under the direction of
two professors. The first professor's chair comprises the
study of anatomy, physiology, operating surgery, midwifery,
and clinical surgery. In the years 1848 and 1849 eleven

chap, iv.] PLACES OF EDUCATION. 73

students attended these lectures. The second professor's
chair includes pathology, materia-medica, therapeutics, and
clinical medicine. Eleven students attended this course
in the years 1848 and 1849. The first professor has given
lectures on midwifery, and diplomas to 50 females, who now
practise in the district of Funchal.

There are several places of general education : — Firstly, a
Lyceum, which forms part of a huilding erected by the Jesuits
when they visited the island in 1566. For this establishment
a law, passed on the 12th of June, 1849, appointed the fol-
lowing professors : — Chairs 1 and 2, under one professor,
embrace Portuguese and Latin grammar, and the study
of the Latin tongue. — Chair 3. Arithmetic and the elements
of algebra and geometry. — Chair 4. Logic, moral philosophy,
and the elements of natural right. — Chair 5. Rhetoric, poetry,
and classical literature. — Chair 6. Commerce, geography, chro-
nology, and history*. Secondly, there are forty-one schools of
primary instruction ; four are paid by the treasury, of which one
is a girls' school, and sixteen paid by the municipal corporation,
of which eleven are girls' schools. The private schools are
twenty-one in number. The number of scholars is 2203 ;
of these 883 are boys, and 1320 are girls. There is an infant
school, with an income of about £150; and there are two
Recolhimentos, or refuges : one for orphans, in connection with,
and supported by, the hospital of Funchal ; and the other,
the Bom Jezus, for widows and others, supported by its own
revenues, but under the direction of the ordinary. The

* In the years 1848-49, the courses of the 1st and 2nd of these chairs
were attended by twenty -four students ; on the 3rd chair there was no
attendance; the 4th was attended by seventeen; and the 5th by eleven.
On chair 6 there was no attendance. Of the French and English languages
there were thirty-four students ; sixteen of the former, and eighteen of the
latter.

E

7-4 PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. [chap. iv.

orphan establishment maintains six orphans, a superintendent
of the house, and a portress. There are eighteen inmates,
but twelve of these are paid for by friends or relatives.

Beyond the limits of the Concelho of Funchal there are
scattered over the island ten boys' schools, paid by the trea-
sury, with 376 scholars ; sixteen boys' schools, paid by the
municipal corporations, with 428 scholars, and two girls'
schools, with forty-two scholars ; four private girls' schools,
with twenty-two scholars ; and two private boys' schools, with
twenty-three scholars.

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

In the capital of the district of Funchal there are the
following public establishments : — a civil hospital, a mi-
litary hospital, a lazar hospital, and an asylum for the
poor. In each of the Concelhos of Sancta Cruz, Machico,
Calheta, and Porto Santo, there is a hospital, so called.

The first hospital in Madeira was founded on the 25th
of March, 1454, by Joao Goncalves Zarco. It was erected at
Sa.° Paulo. Subsequently the establishment was removed to
the parish of Santa Maria Maior, and in 1685 it was again
moved to its present position in the Praca da Constitucao.
This hospital, Santa Caza da Mizericordia, has been at
various times liberally endowed by the Government, as well
as by individuals. In ancient days the Crown granted
it the privilege of a preference over all other creditors
in the collection of its debts, a privilege which has, how-
ever, been annulled by recent enactment. Tbe old law also
obliged the trustees of the hospital to loan out at interest
all superfluous funds, on the security of real estates, or
pledges of value : the result has proved most unfortunate,
as from many of the debtors the interest cannot now be

chap. IV.] PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 75

obtained, much less the principal, and the establishment
having no longer the privilege of a preference creditor,
its funds are not now sufficient to provide for half the
number which the building is calculated to hold. In the
parishes of Camera de Lobos, Sa.° Martinho, and Santo An-
tonio, the hospital has lands which produce some of the best
wine in the island. It is also possessed of landed property
in many other parishes, and a great number of houses in the
city of Funchal pay foro, or ground rent, to this estab-
lishment *.

From 800 to 1000 persons are annually received into the
hospital, and about an equal number obtain medicine and me-
dical treatment, as out-door patients. In the beginning of
the year 1847 there were 79 persons in the wards ; during
that year 995 patients entered, of whom 539 were men, and
456 women: of these 735 were cured, 273 died, and 66
remained. In the year 1848, 754 persons entered, of whom
373 were men, and 381 women: of these 571 were cured,
164 died, and 85 remained. In the year 1849, 683 entered ;
334 men, and 349 women: of whom 599 were cured, 111
died, and 58 remained.

The orphan establishment, before mentioned, is annexed
to this hospital, and supported from its funds.

The affairs of the hospital are managed by a Commissdo
Administrative/,, composed of a president, a treasurer, a se-
cretary, and two other members. The attendants in the hos-

* The nominal funds of the hospital amount to £38,051 5s. %\d. ; viz. :
capital lent at interest, £16,815 9s. 8d. ; value of property paying ground
rents, £6274 2s. 8%d.; properties in the country, £6028 6s. M.; pro-
perties in Funchal, £8933 6s. 8d. The money received in 1847 was
£2302 3s. lid.; in 1848, it was £1881 14s. llirf.;andin 1849, the receipts
were £1548 2s. Id., leaving in the latter year arrears amounting to
£8027 19s. Zd. due to the fabric.

E 2

76 PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. [CHAP. IT.

pital are a physician, an operating surgeon, a house surgeon,
a chemist, with an assistant, besides an inspector, who has
two assistants and two nurses under him. The pupils from
the medico-chirurgical school receive here practical instruc-
tion in the treatment of different diseases, in anatomy, and
pharmacy.

A chapel is annexed to the hospital, which ha3 its regular
chaplain and sacristan, paid from the funds of the establish-
ment.

During the last war, and for many years subsequently, the
English had a ward in the hospital, superintended by their
own physician and surgeon. The expenses were borne by the
resident British merchants in Madeira. The salaries to these
officers were stopped in the year 1828, when their services
were no longer required, and the ward was altogether given
up at the end of the year 1838. Sailors and distressed
foreigners are now received into the hospital, where they are
provided with food, lodging, medical treatment, and every-
thing but drugs, at the moderate rate of 2$. Id. per diem.

The troops stationed on the island have always their own
ital, as well as their own medical officer.

The lazar hospital, for the reception of persons afflicted
with elephantiasis, has an annual expenditure of from i'i'i1)
to 6300*. It is doubtful whether any one afflicted with this
disease has ever recovered from it.

* The expenses in 1847 amounted to £264 7s. M. ; in 1848, to
£290 16*. M.; and in 1849, to £305 h. 2d. In the beginning of the
year 1847, there were 26 patients in this hospital, 19 men and 7 women;
during the same year 14 entered, of whom 5 men died, and 22 men and
13 women remained; in 1848, 8 entered, 5 men and 3 women; in which
year o men and 2 women died, leaving 22 men and 14 women : during the
year 1849, 5 entered, 4 men and 1 woman ; 7 men and 1 woman died this
year, leaving 33 patients in the hospital, 19 men and 14 women.

PC. ^TITCTT.

There is no provision by law for the poor of the ida
Some rears : . a in old accounts of 31a."

the visit hocked

siired members or emaciated babes into the fac-
passers-by : but. e irs, the Camera L

building of its own erection as an A2U.0 da Mendieidade
tor these; miserable creatur A food and work

vided at the Anlo, which is an institution well wc.
support of philant: A bazaar is held annually

at t: "nor s house, in aid of its fun"

Madeira had formerly a colonial . in a few

rears it has been put on the footing of a prorince ; and now,
me local peculiarities in its administration, it
ited as an integral part of the kingdom of Portugal. In
1841, the new judicial reform d iJl Por.

into 21 admin: - and 1 Portugal

proper contains 17 adminh —

Iminist: I the

ne administratire and oth
lands of Madeira and I dis-

tinctirelr into judicial and administratire -s. The ju-

dicial divisions into comarcat and julgados; and. the adminis-
tratire into concelhos 1 municipalities ) ani/reouezia$ (pari-
- —

• In 1845 tbi« bazaar produce: -. .-' 4J4.;inl?' £22 J 114/L

-it . -.v..v;: .7 ;:. 7ii ;>.- .:■ .:' -.:i iij .1 :: i'-..-.. .■ :..:. ;--;-.-.

.: in 1848, they were £755 13*. 10JA, and in

1849 the inrtitotxw receded £828 U :beae rani Engirt

rkhoo to Madeira were eontribntora, in 1847, of -£120 ; in 1846, of £.

-: .- itij. -.: *-::.

In the beginning of the year 1847, there were 310 persona in the asylnra :
214 entered in that year, of whom 34 died, 331 were sent away, ax 1 If
remained; in the year 1 111 persons entered, 28 died, 256 were sent

aw?j. and 186 remafDed ; 2St new mmabn we: i, 15

died, 224 were tent away, and 175 were left in the ask>.

78

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

[chap. IV.

Divisao Judicial.

Divisao Administrativa.

Comarcas.

Julgados.

Concelhos.

Freguezias.

r

/

SaP Martinho.

Occidental . .

S.Pedro A

Santo Antonio.
Sa? Koque.

r

(

Sa? Pedro.

Funchal . \

Se.

Santa Luzia.

Se . . .-{

N. Snra do Monte.
Santa Maria Maior.

.

Sa? Gonqalo.

\.

f

Caniijo.

s

SanctaCruz<

Camacha.
Graula.

Oriental . . -

Sancta Cruz.

S. Cruz . . \

'

Agoa de Pena.

Machico .<

Santo Antonio da Serra.
Machico.

V

■

Canical.

'

Porto da Cruz.
Faial.

S. Anna

S. Anna . -

Santa Anna.
Sa? Jorge.

V

I

Arco de S. Jorge.

f

Ponta Delgada.
S»? Vincente.

S. Vincente

S. Vincente \

Seixal.

Ribeira da Janella.

t Porto do Moniz.

Ponta do Pargo.
Fajaa da Ovelha.
Paul do Mar.

Calheta . .

Calheta . . \

Jardim do Mar.

Prazeres.

Estreito da Calheta.

Occidental . . -

Calheta.

Arco da Calheta.

\

Magdalena.

Can has.

P. deSol .

P. de Sol . -

Ponta do Sol.
Atabua.
Ribeira Brava.

Serra d'Agoa.

Campanario.

Estreito de Camera de

C. de Lobos

C. de Lobos •

Lobos.
Curral das Freiras.

Camera de Lobos.

Oriental . .

Porto St? (Ilha;

Porto St? .

Nossa Snra da Piedade.

chap, iv.] CIVIL GOVERNORS.— JUDGES. 7!)

In each concelho there is a magistrate, entitled adminis-
trador do concelho; and a body called camera municipal,
which is elected by the inhabitants of the municipal district
every two years. The revenues of these corporations are
derived from imposts levied ou articles of food, and the rents
of properties within their concelhos. The collection of reve-
nue is entrusted to a treasurer, who receives a fixed salary.
The parishes contained within the concelhos are subdivided
into cerculos, in each of which there is a junta da parrochia
(vestry) and a regidor (constable).

CIVIL GOVERNORS.

The civil governor of Madeira has under his supervision
all the different branches of the public service. His prin-
cipal duties are, to order and regulate all government ex-
penses, according to the law in existence, or agreeably to any
special enactment of the Lisbon cabinet; to secure from
injury the properties and rights of the crown ; to transmit
all necessary instructions to his subalterns ; and to promote
the agricultural and industrial welfare of the people.

JUDGES,

There are four orders of judges: — 1. The juiz de paz. 2.
The juiz eleito. 3. The juiz ordinario. 4. The juiz de
direito.

1 . The juiz de paz, as his name denotes, is a magistrate of
peace. His office is, to use all the means which prudence
and equity suggest, to bring the parties to an understanding,
so as to avoid a law-suit. No cause involving property, the
value of which exceeds six dollars, can be proceeded in, with-

80 JUDGES. [chap. iv.

out being first submitted to the juiz de paz. This officer is
elected by the people, to serve for two years ; his services are
gratuitous, and one or more parishes form his district.

2. The juiz eleito, like tbe juiz de paz, is elected by the
people ; like him he serves gratuitously, and has one or two
parishes joined under his jurisdiction. He decides, finally,
all causes not exceeding in value one dollar two hundred and
fifty reis, whether in personal property, money, or cases of
injury done by persons or cattle in wheat-fields, vineyards,
gardens, orchards, pastures, and plantations, where the injury
does not amount to a criminal act. Lastly, he decides cases
of fines imposed for transgressions against the regulations of
the municipal authorities: where the amount of fine exceeds
his jurisdiction, there is appeal to the juiz ordinario.

3. The juiz ordinario is, in common with the juiz eleito
and the juiz de paz, elected by the people, and like them
serves for two years ; he has no salary but what he receives
in fees from suitors, which, however, is very little. There is
a juiz ordinario over each julgado of the island; he decides,
finally, all causes, within his district, which do not involve
an amount of more than four dollars real, or six dollars per-
sonal property ; and in criminal cases where the punishment
does not exceed three days' imprisonment or a fine of two
dollars. He judges, subject to an appeal to the juiz de
direito, causes, which do not involve an amount of more than
twenty dollars real, or thirty dollars personal property ; and
criminal cases, in which the penalty does not exceed a fine
of ten dollars, or one month's imprisonment: should the
penalty, however, in criminal cases exceed such an amount,
the appeal is transferred to the tribunal da policia correc-
cional. It is, moreover, the office of the juiz ordinario to

chap, iv.] JUDGES. 81

prepare for the court of the juiz de direito all processes,
whether civil or criminal, which come under the cognizance
of that judge.

4. The juiz de direito is appointed by government, one
over each comarca ; his salary is paid by the crown, and he
also receives a small fee from parties sueing in his court:
he decides, finally, all appeals to him from the juiz ordinario;
and, subject to appeal to the superior courts in Lisbon, all
causes involving an amount of more than twenty dollars real,
or thirty dollars personal property. He judges, also subject to
appeal to Lisbon, with a jury, all criminal cases, where the
penalty exceeds six months' imprisonment, banishment out of
the comarca, or a fine of forty dollars: where the penalty,
in criminal cases, is less than this, and yet exceeds his
summary powers, he judges appeals from the juiz ordina-
rio with the tribunal da policia correccional. This tribunal
is composed of the juiz d,e direito and four other members
named by the municipal corporation. To the juiz de direito
is attached a delegado do procurador regio, or public prose-
cutor.

The jury are solely judges of the fact, and from their
decision there is no appeal. A verdict is arrived at by a
majority of two-thirds of the jury, which is composed of
twelve, or, in small districts, of nine persons.

The law establishing the reforma judicial in Portugal in
1832 was carried into effect in Madeira in 1835 ; by it, the
old judicial offices of corregidor, juiz defora, juiz dos orfdos,
providor dos auzentes, reziduos, and capellas, have been abo-
lished, and their duties are now performed by the juiz de
direito. A British judge, conservator, was formerly named
by the consul and English residents, subject to the ap-
proval of the Portuguese government; he received a salary

e 3

82 CRIMINALS. LAWS OF INHERITANCE. [chap. iv.

from the former, and all suits with British subjects were
generally tried by him. In conformity with the stipulations
in the 17th Article of the treaty of the 29th of July, 1842,
between England and Portugal, the conservatorial court was
abolished, and all suits with British subjects are now tried
in the same manner as between Portuguese.

CRIMINALS.

Criminals remain in prison from the time of their being
apprehended till the month of May or November next ensu-
ing, in which months the sessions are held. After condemna-
tion, they remain a year or more in prison, till their sentences
are confirmed or revoked by a superior tribunal in Lisbon.
About 100 are tried yearly in the Tribunal Correctional, the
greater part of whom are condemned ; of 40 more tried in the
Tribunal do Jury, rather more than half are condemned.
The number of criminals in the district of Funchal was, in
1847, 153; in 1848, 76; and in 1849, 77.

The administration of justice must be allowed at least to
be lenient, and, notwithstanding its mildness, the population
cannot be considered as exhibiting an excess of crime against
property or life. The character of the people on the whole,
if not distinguished for the loftier virtues, is certainly gentle
and courteous.

LAWS OF INHERITANCE.

The laws of inheritance assign property to direct heirs for
two generations, forward and backward. By will, however,
one-third may be alienated from these. In event of the
failure of such heirs, the whole of an unentailed estate may
be disposed of by will. The laws of entail are now much

chap, iv.] LAWS OF INHEKITANCE. 83

modified. Formerly any one was competent to found morga-
dos, or vinculos, and capellas; if the founder had direct heirs,
he could only entail a third part of his property ; otherwise,
the whole ; the institutor of an entail was at liberty to fix the
order of succession.

The difference between a morgado, or vinculo, and acapella
is, that the latter property was liable to contributions to re-
ligious purposes (encargos p>i°s), such as providing certain
masses or alms ; so that, in fact, the life occupant only re
ceived a third or a fourth of the income, for his trouble in
managing the property: morgado is a term employed to
signify either an estate entailed for ever, or its life tenant.
Neither morgado or capella property could be alienated.

In the time of the Marquis of Pombal, two important
laws, with reference to this species of property, were passed.
The first, dated September 9, 1769, prohibited the found-
ing of capellas on real property, reducing the encargos pios to
the tenth part of the income of all capellas then in exist-
ence ; it further abrogated all those capellas which did not
yield the life occupant a net income of £41 13s. Ad. per
annum, in the province of Estremadura, or of £20 16s. 8d.
in all other parts of the Portuguese dominions : in event of
such properties lapsing to the crown, through failure of heirs,
the encargos pios were entirely abolished by this law. The
law justifies itself in these words: " The charges on proper-
ties for masses are already so many, that were all the per-
sons, of one and the other sex, in these Idngdoms, priests,
they could not perform a third part of the masses required
by deeds registered in the will-offices. In one of the small-
est of these offices, for example, 12,000 capellas are insti-
tuted, and more than 500,000 masses annually required."

The law passed August 3, 1770, went further, and abo-

84 LAWS OF INHERITANCE. [chap. iv.

lished all entails (morgados) which did not yield to the life
occupant a net income of £41 13s. Ad. in the provinces of
Alem Tejo and Estreniadura, or of £20 16s. 8d. in the rest
of the Portuguese dominions; it annulled all irregular* suc-
cessions which had been established by founders of entails ;
and regulated the form of making new entails, granting this
privilege only to persons of rank, or to those who had distin-
guished themselves in some way or other. Thenceforth no
entail could be instituted, without royal licence, and unless
the property yielded an income of £500 per annum.

On the 4th of April, 1832, another law was enacted, by
which all entails, not yielding the life occupant a net income
of £41 13s. Ad., were abolished ; facilities were afforded for
exchanging, leasing, and renting entailed properties ; and
tbe life occupant without a successor, was allowed to cut off
the entail, even though the income of the estate should
exceed £500 per annum ; in which case previously the pro-
perty would have lapsed to the crown.

In case of marriage, the nuptial contract is observed ; if
there is no nuptial contact, the half of all the goods belongs
to the widower or widow, and the testator can only dispose of
one-half freely ; or if the testator has direct heirs, he has
only power over one-third of this half. If there is no will,
in the first place the direct descendants and ascendants, or,
in failure of these, the nearest blood relations, inherit the
portion of the deceased ; in failure of relations to the tenth
degree, the surviving spouse inherits, or, if there is none,
the public treasury. This law applies to foreign as well as
native residents in Madeira.

' What is called a regular succession is where preference is given to male
over female, and to the elder over the younger branches.

chap, iv.] PUBLIC EEVENDES. 85

PUBLIC REVENUES.

All public revenues are paid into the central chest of
Fuuchal ; this chest is under the guardianship of three
keepers, the civil governor, the paymaster of the treasury,
and the treasury delegate ; each of these has a key of the
chest. The treasury delegate presides over a department
charged with the collection of public revenue, and the direc-
tion of public accounts ; he is answerable directly to the
Lisbon government, although under the supervision of the
civil governor. The paymaster of the treasury forms one of
a tribunal, of which the civil governor and the delegado do
procurador regio are the other members ; this commission
(junta) is charged with the sale of the produce of the na-
tional properties and tithes. It also takes cognizance of
appeals from the decisions of the director of customs. The
director is accountable only to the Lisbon government, but
the Custom House, over which he presides, is under the super-
intendence of the civil governor. The revenues of the Cus-
tom House, with the exception of the imposts on foreign
grain, are paid into the central chest, and disposed of in the
same manner as the other revenues of the treasury*. The
amount annually paid into the public chest generally exceeds
£41,672 13s. 4rf. Government imposes a duty upon all im-
ports into Madeira, except provisions. Protection is afforded
on all articles of Portuguese production or manufacture, which,
with the exception of wine, pay next to no duty on export or

* The usual gross receipts of the Custom House average from £23,988 6s. Sd.
to £25,003 per annum. In 1847, the receipts from customs amounted to
£23,919 9s. 2d.; in 1848, they amounted to £21,785 5s. l±d.; and in
1849, to £24,898 Is. 10a!. These figures include the moneys accruing from
the imposts on foreign grain, which moneys are paid to the Cameras, and not
into the treasury.

86 PUBLTO REVENUES. [chap. iv.

import. On Madeira wines the following duties are charged:
— on all exported to Portugal and its dependencies, 8s. Ifd.
per pipe; on all exported to foreign countries, £l 3*. Ofd. per
pipe; on all consumed in the island, the value of 4 canadas*
is charged on each barrel of wine ; the wine of shipment pays
besides £1 9s. 2d. for imposts and Custom-house dues. Meat
pays in proportion of one pound, in each arrobaj, at its retail
price. Fish pays six per cent, on its net value. These are
termed indirect imposts. The direct imposts are the tithes,
which are the tenth part of the productions of the land, with
the exception of some vegetables and fruits. These, next to
the customs, are the principal sources of revenue J.

* A barrel of wine contains 28 canadas.

+■ An arroba contains 32 pounds.

J The following extract from the treasury operations in the years 1848
and 1S49 will give a clearer idea of the financial resources of Madeira.
In 1848 there was a balance in the treasury from the last year of
£7830 lis. 9|(Z. ; the receipts from the customs, and from the coffers of
the concelhos, were £30,481 8s. 11|<2. ; moneys replaced, £195 5s. 5\d. ;
deposits, £46 7s. 8\d.; treasury receipts, £78 2s. 6d. The expenditure
during that year, by order of Government, was £34,422 65. 10d., making a
total of £38,631 16s. i\d. received,
34,422 6 10 spent,

£4,209 9 6| balance to next year.

In 1849 there was a balance in the treasury from the last year of

£4209 9s. 6|cZ.; the receipts from the customs were £22,768 19s. id. ;

from the coffers of the concelhos, £11,419 lis. 4c?. ; moneys replaced, 4s. 2d.

The expenditure during that year was, by order of the Minister of the

Home Department, £3013 17s. 6^d. ; by order of the Minister of Justice,

£2758 lis. 5d. ; by order of the Minister of War, £16,136 19s. 9^. ; by

order of the Minister of Marine, £961 8s. Z\d. ; by order of the Minister of

Finance, £6296 5s. 9d. ; and by funds transferred, £2776 6s. 6d., making

a total of

£3S,398 4s. 4f<Z. received,

31,943 9 4i spent,

£6,454 15 0j balance to next year.
To define the meaning of " funds transferred," or of " moneys replaced,"

chap, iv.] GOVERNMENT MONOPOLIES. 87

GOVERNMENT MONOPOLIES.

Government maintains monopolies of soap, tobacco, and
urzella*: the penalties for infringing them are very severe ;

would not be so easy ; the receipts " from the coffers of the concelhos,"

however, require some explanation. The particulars of these receipts, in
1849, are as follows : —

£ s. d.

Duties on patents 179 18 9^

Five per cent, additional duty 137 7 7

Tithes 3,756 5 6

Fintos (imposts) 288 18 1^

Diplomas 27 4 0

Fines 236 13 1\

Stamps 201 5 6

>Stamps on licences 236 17 1

Stamps on passports 73 17 0

Printed licences 2 111

Printed passports 0 9 7j

Ten per cent, on the sale of real estates . . 1,157 0 lOf

Educational fund 1,292 3 3

One-fifth of the revenue of crown property

granted to individuals 43 14 8 £

Legacy duty 273 10 9

Six per cent, on fish 188 19 7

Tax on meat 724 8 \\\

Another tax on meat 376 3 \\\

Tax on wine 1,061 3 11

Tax on fishing-boats 0126

Ground rents 191 8 65

Interest 4 7 4f

Two and a half per cent, to landlord on trans-
fer of ground rents 16 5

Rents 711 18 11

Unclassed receipts 251 12 9|

£11,419 11 4

* Urzella, or orchil weed, is a lichen, or moss, used in making dye ; it

was formerly collected in great quantities on the Dezerta Islands, and in less

quantities on the Ponta de Sa? Laurenco, and the north coasts of Madeira ;

it was valued at £350 and upwards per ton, but from the large quantities

88 MILITARY AFFAIRS. [chap. iv.

even the possession of contraband articles brings the owner
within the lash of the law.

Such restrictions as these are founded, no doubt, on narrow
views of commerce and policy : many other particulars might
be pointed out, in which the political relations of such coun-
tries as Portugal with their colonies, and the condition of
civil rights both in the dependencies and the mother country,
are far different from, and far inferior to those enjoyed by the
subjects of the British crown. There is one respect, how-
ever, in which countries that suffer from bad government may
perhaps find some compensation for the want of a greater
degree of public freedom; and that is, in a nearer approach
at least to social and personal equality. Amongst these
people, there does not appear to be so hard a line of de-
marcation between the different orders of society as in some
other countries. The manners of inferiors are less obse-
quious, and those of superiors more easy ; the general level
of society is more even, and less interrupted by abrupt and
impassable barriers.

MILITARY AFFAIRS.

Madeira forms the ninth military division of Portugal.
The military government of Funchal is committed to officers
holding a rank not inferior to that of colonel. The force,
which forms the present garrison of Madeira, is composed of
the Oth Battalion of Caqadores (light infantry), numbering
445 men; a detachment of 21 men, from the 1st Kegiment

found of late years at Angola, and the other Portuguese settlements on the
coast of Africa, the price has fallen to £50 per ton, and little, if any, is now
collected in Madeira. It is remarkable that the African orchil is gathered
from trees ; any found on the stems of trees in Madeira, and the adjacent
islands, was considered worthless as a dye, where none was employed unless
it grew on rocks and stones near the sea-shore.

chap, iv.] ROADS. — ELECTIONS. 89

of Artillery; and a militia of 1168 men, who serve in the
forts along the sea-shore. All men, from 18 to 25 years of
age, are liable to enlistment in the regular army.

It has been remarked that the Portuguese, under good
officers, make excellent soldiers ; Soult is said to have com-
plained once to Napoleon, after having engaged and been re-
pulsed by Portuguese troops officered by Englishmen, that the
English had taken an unfair advantage, and dressed their men
in Portuguese clothes, thereby tempting him to attack them
as the weakest part of the army.

ROADS.

All men, whether natives or foreigners, being permanent
residents, and of sufficient age and strength to work, are
obliged to contribute annually to the repairs and making of
roads, five days' manual labour, or pay one dollar for their
exemption. The estufa tax, of one dollar, 920 reis, per pipe
of wine per annum, is likewise applicable to this purpose and
the repairs of bridges. These means, if properly applied
to the excellent materials which are furnished by the basaltic
rocks, should ensure good highways.

ELECTIONS.

The elections in Madeira, as in the mother country, are
carried on in the churches, the priests being required to
identify the voters. The Portuguese who have 100 dollars
annual income, choose within the limits of their council
one or two electors, who go to the capital of the province,
where they jointly choose four deputies ; this election is by
secret scrutiny in both instances. Madeira and Porto Santo
together choose twenty-two electors, who elect four deputies
to represent them in the Lisbon Cortes.

90 HABITATIONS OF THE POOR. — DRESS. [chap. it.

HABITATIONS OF THE POOR.

The habitations of the poor in Madeira are of the hum-
blest sort ; a few stones piled one above the other, a few
pine-sticks raised into a high roof, bound together with willow
twigs and thatched with straw, form the ordinary style of the
tenements of the lower classes. At a distance, these huts
are often almost invisible from their colour, and you may
appear to be at the first glance in a lonely country, which, on
closer inspection, you discover to be thickly covered with
these habitations. Near the shore sometimes, where there
are seams of tufa, which is easily worked, the inhabitants
scoop hovels for themselves out of the rock : at Camera de
Lobos these habitations seen from the sea have the appear-
ance of a rabbit-warren.

DRESS.

The dress of the peasantry is as scanty as is consistent
with decency ; a pair of linen drawers full and reaching
down to the knees, together with a loose linen shirt, is the
common dress of the men ; sometimes a jacket is thrown
loosely over the left arm. The more genteel have adopted
trowsers, and long yellow boots turned over at the top cover
the toes of such as are ashamed of producing them. The
cap resembles an inverted funnel, covering no more than the
crown of the head, and made of blue cloth lined with red.
With southern civility they doff their carapii^a to every one
they meet ; they might put to shame many a would-be gen-
tleman by the graceful ease with which they salute each
other, and the unassuming uncringing manner with which
they comport themselves towards either equals or superiors.
The dress of the women is simple and pretty; the native

chap, iv.] BEAUTY. — MANUFACTURES. 91

boddice and tbe red cape being peculiarly becoming to the
young girls ; they wear the same carapu^a as the men.
With a great many, that substitute for the mantilla, a hand-
kerchief, is the popular head-dress.

BEAUTY.

You must not look for many pretty faces in Madeira after
the age of thirteen, amongst the upper classes inertness,
and amongst the lower hard work, reduce the standard of
beauty. The upper class of women are hardly ever seen in
the streets, save on their road to mass or when going to
pay a visit; on these occasions all the jewels, plate, and
ribbons of apparently very ancient families are to be seen
in full display. The ladies generally live on their bal-
conies watching passers-by. The English ladies going to
church draw forth many fair beholders and critics, and on
Sundays the balconies are lined with native fashion. The
glory of the Madeira women are their hair, which is of the
richest growth and blackest hue, and their eyes, which are
dark and bright.

MANUFACTUEES.

The manufactures of Madeira are as follows : candles ;
shoes ; straw-hats ; baskets, of every shape ; chairs, of straw
and wicker-work ; ladies' ornamental chains made of horse-
hair ; all sorts of woodwork, in which the joiners are very
expert, especially in inlaid work of various woods, superior to
that produced at Tunbridge : they have an advantage in the
diversity and beauty of the many kinds of wood grown on the
island, but they add to this a superior skill and taste in the
art of marquetry, and construct ornamental chairs, tables,
chessboards, paper-cutters, card-cases, book-racks, walking-

92 MANUFACTURES. [chap, iv

sticks, &c; the jewellers' work is rough, but jewellery i^
more than commonly abundant, owing perhaps to the break-
ing up of many old families of the ancient proprietors, when
their precious stones and other valuables came into the
market. The women are famous for their beautiful needle-
work, and the nuns very skilful in imitating flowers with
dyed feathers. The young girls plying the distaff at the
doors of the houses by the roadside add a picturesque effect
to the scenery : these distaffs are made simply of the Arundo
donax, split and bowed into the proper shape at the top.

There is a manufacture by handlooms of coarse linen
and stuffs, which are worn by the country folk. Pottery, of
an inferior texture, is made from materials furnished by the
finer beds of red tufa ; and leather is tanned on a small scale
for island use.

CHAPTER V.

ON THE AGRICULTURE OF MADEIRA.

" Nor ye who live
In luxury and ease, in pomp and pride,
Think these lost themes unworthy of your ear:
Such themes as these the rural Maro sung
To wide-imperial Rome, in the full height
Of elegance and taste, by Greece refined.
Ye generous Britons, venerate the plough."

Thomson.

Introduction of the vine and sugar-cane. — Clearing the forests. — Cultiva-
tion of the sugar-cane. — Cultivation of the vine. — Different soils. — Best
wine districts. — Kinds of wines. — Manufacture of wine. — Cultivation of
corn. — Manure. — Threshing. — Grinding corn. — Maize. — Flax. — Potatoes.
— Yams. — Weeds. — Pine trees. — Sheep.— Cows. — Instruments of hus-
bandry.— Le vadas. — Dearths. — Labouring classes — Wages. — Relation
between landlord and tenant.

To the provident care of Prince Henry, Madeira was indebted
for its first supply of agricultural seeds, plants, and domestic
animals.

Amongst the plants, the vine from Cyprus, and the sugar-
cane from Sicily*, throve so prosperously that they soon
became important articles in Portuguese commerce.

CLEARING THE FORESTS.

The new colony set to work immediately clearing the
ground. For this purpose they fired the great forests, which
are said to have burnt with such violence that several of the
people were forced to take refuge in their boats. According

* The sugar-cane, we learn from Ungues Falcand, a writer of that
period, was known in Sicily as early as the twelfth century.

94 CULTIVATION OF THE SUGAR-CAKE AND VINE. [chap. v.

to the accounts transmitted to us, this fire smouldered on for
near seven years *; the consequence was, that the soil was so
enriched hy the vast quantity of wood ashes as to acquire an
extraordinary degree of fertility f. A vicious system of agri-
culture, or rather a total absence of any system, soon ex-
hausted the soil of this exuberance J.

CULTIVATION OF THE SUGAR-CANE.

The early abandonment of the manufacture of sugar in
Madeira has been attributed by some to a blight which is said
to have attacked the canes. It is probable, however, that the
Portuguese, finding this plant could be grown with more profit
elsewhere, transferred it to the island of St. Thomas, on the
west coast of Africa, from whence it found its way to the
West Indies. There are now but four sugar mills left in
Madeira ; the wheels are worked by oxen, and the process of
crushing the cane is worth seeing. The juice is carried off
by a pipe into coppers, where it is boiled, fermented, and
converted into rum and molasses. The cane is also chewed
by the natives for food.

CULTIVATION OF THE VINE.

The staple of the agriculture of Madeira, and the principal
object which occupies its population, is the vine. Vines were

* J. Be Barros, dec. i.

T " The woods which gave name to the island were fired, and burnt so
furiously, that the people were forced to go some space into the sea from the
violent heat, which caused such a fatness to the soil that at first it yielded
threescore fold ; since, half so much." (Purchases Pilgrims, 1626, b. 7,
chap. xii. p. 784.) A. Oadamosto says, that the vines brought forth more
clusters of grapes than leaves, and that the produce of the island in corn
amounted to 30,000 Venetian measures called Stares, each being equal to
133 lbs.

+ Ovington, p. 10.

chap. v.J DIFFERENT SOILS. 95

formerly planted at a depth of only twenty inches, and some-
times, though never very generally, by means of a plough.
The instrument was dragged over and over the same ground,
till the required depth was attained. Such a practice has
long since ceased ; indeed, there are very few places in the
island, from its rocky nature, where a plough could penetrate
twenty inches into the soil. The vine in the south is now
always planted in trenches, varying from four to six feet in
depth. The depth of the trench is regulated by the nature
of the soil. The object in cutting so deep is to allow the
roots of the vine to penetrate sufficiently far through the
fresh turned earth, to prevent their being dried by the effects
of the sun, and a long-continued season of drought, when
water for irrigation is scarce. Lumps of pedra molle, and other
stones, are placed at the bottom of the trench to keep the
earth loose, and prevent the roots of the vines from reaching
the stiff soil below. The trenches are filled up slantingly
one-third of their depth, the bacello, or cutting, never being
planted lower than two-thirds of the depth opened. The new
roots shoot mainly from the upper part of the bacello, and at
no great distance from the surface of the ground : the part
below the roots decays and rots off. When rooted vines are
planted they are not put in so deep, although the ground is
trenched in the same manner as for bacellos.

DIFFERENT SOILS.

The names given to the different kinds of soil in which the
vine is planted are saibro (decomposed red tufa), cascalho
(stony soil), pedra molle (an arenaceous soil, of decomposed
yellow tufa), and tnassa})es (clay resulting from the decompo-
sition of dark tufas). The vine lasts the longest in saibro
and cascalho. In pedra molle and massapes it produces at

96 BEST WINE DISTRICTS. CHAP. v.

first more freely, but the wine is weaker in body, and the
plant is soon worn out. The best soil, both for wine and
the endurance of the vine, is saibro with a mixture of stones,
the plant being always partial to stony or rocky ground.

BEST WINE DISTRICTS.

The finest wines of Madeira are produced in the parishes
of Camera de Lobos, Sa.° Martinho, and Sa.° Pedro ; in the
lower parts of Santo Antonio, the Estreito de Camera de
Lobos, Campanario, Sa.° Roque, and S1.0 Gonc^lo. The upper
parts of the five last parishes produce only second and third-
rate wines. The finest Malmsey and Sercial are from the
Fajaa dos Padres, at the foot of Cabo Girao, and from the
Paul and Jardirn do Mar.

The best vine to graft on is the stock of the Malmsey.
The best vine to plant in the south is the Yerdelho. It is
obtained either from the north or from the Curral das Freiras.

The length of time that a vineyard will last depends as
much on the cultivator as on the quality of his soil. Where
the farmer is careless, or intent only on his bemfeitorias*, the
vines are often huddled into the ground close together, when
they grow up weak and sickly, yield comparatively but little
fruit, and die off in eight or ten years, unless forced to exist
a few years longer by parsimonious doses of manure. A pru-
dent cultivator will plant his vines ten or twelve pdhnos\
apart, when in the same ground, with proper treatment, the
plants will yield better, and last from fifty to a hundred
years.

The vines, excepting in the north of the island, where they
luxuriate wild on the branches of the chestnut trees, are

* Explained at page 108. + Spans.

chap, v.] BEST WINE DISTRICTS. 97

trained on a sort of trellis-work made of the Arimdo donax, to
which they are bound by split shoots of willow. This frame-
work, when the leaves are off, has the appearance, as you look
down upon it from the hills, of nets spread on the ground.
One or more walks intersect each vineyard. Along these
walks, wooden pillars about seven feet high are erected at
regular distances, to support frames which slope down from
them on each side to within two feet of the ground. At this
elevation the reeds extend over the whole vineyard. There is
barely room for men to creep under these lattice-works either
for the purpose of weeding, pruning, or gathering the grapes.

An alqueire* of ground, being soil of the best description
and well cultivated, will produce in an average year from
twelve to fifteen barrels of wine, of which twelve go to the
pipe. If the soil is of medium quality, and well cultivated, it
will produce from eight to ten barrels. Ground of either best
or medium quality in bad hands will not produce more than one
or two barrels. In bad land, of course, no vines are planted.

The exportation of wine from Madeira and Porto Santo
during the last three years has averaged 6738 pipes, whereas
the amount grown has averaged 15,887 pipes. This leaves
the large amount of 9149 pipes annually consumed in the
island, or converted into brandy. The largest amount is
drunk by boatmen and burroqueros, who spend about one-
third of their means in a liquor, which comes under the deno-
mination of low wine. Of the wine exported from the island

* An alqueire of ground contains 15,625 square palmos ; the palmo is
equal to 8 1 English inches. A difference in measurements exists in some
parts of Madeira ; for instance, in Camera de Lobos 5 palmos correspond to
43 inches ; at Santa Anna a palmo equals 9 inches; and at Machico a palmo
equals 8 inches. In different kinds of measurements the value of a palmo
varies even in Funchal, where the land surveyors, in measuring walls, use
the palmo of 9 English inches, instead of 8j.

F

98 KINDS OF WINES. MANUFACTURE OF WINE. [chap. v.

one-third may be considered of the finest quality, one-third of
a medium quality, and one-third as low wine. The first cost
of the wine at the press (before fermentation) has this year
been from £'2 10s. to £12 10s. per pipe.

KINDS OF WINES.

The names of the different kinds of wine produced in
Madeira are — Malvazia, Sercial, Tinta, Boal, Verdelho,
Bastardo, Negrinho, and Maroto, all made from grapes
bearing those names. The three last are seldom seen, and
the Negrinho and Maroto are a bad species of grape, always
used in the manufacture of vinho verde, or refuse wine. The
wine called Madeira is made principally from the Verdelho
grape, with an admixture of Tinta and Boal : the first gives it
body, the two latter flavour. The ordinary Bastardo is a black
grape, which yields a light-coloured wine; the Bastardo hranco
is rare. The Tinta, or, as it is sometimes called, Negra molle,
gives a dark colour to new wines. When it is made into wine
by itself, the husk is separated from the stalk and fermented
with the juice of the grape, otherwise the Tinta wine would be
wanting in the peculiarities of colour and flavour which dis-
tinguish it.

MANUFACTURE OF WINE.

To make fine wine it is essential that the grapes should be
fully ripe. The ripeness is judged of by the softness of the
bunches, which lose their rigidity when the sap ceases to
enter them. All unripe grapes, and those of inferior
sorts, must be carefully picked out and put aside for the
vinho verde. When the wine press is full the grapes are
trodden, and then pressed under the beam of the lagdr*.

* Wine press.

chap, v.] CULTIVATION OF CORN. 99

The must is carried away in goat-skins and transferred to
casks, there to undergo fermentation. When the violence
of the fermentation is over, that is >to say, in ten or twelve
days, it is an approved practice to throw into each cask two or
three pounds of powdered gypsum, stirring it up in the wines
daily for the next ten days. The gypsum is ^aid to take up
the watery particles of the wine, and prevent its becoming
ropy : the fermentation then gradually subsides, and at the
end of six or eight weeks the lees are racked off, and a gallon
or two of brandy added to each pipe.

Madeira wines are considerably advanced and matured by
heat. It is a common thing to give these wines a passage to
the East or West Indies, before they are landed in England.

The heat of a ship's hold in India, or of a sugar-laden
ship in Jamaica, sometimes exceeds 110° of Fahrenheit. By
some, the wine is ripened at home in stoves ; the abuse of
which, by giving a false appearance of age to inferior wines,
has at various times been prejudicial to the trade of the island.

The countrymen calculate that one-tenth of the produce of
a vineyard is destroyed by flies, lizards, and rats.

CULTIVATION OF CORN.

Wheat is cultivated as high as Santo Antonio da Serra,
about 2400 feet above the sea. The hard transparent kinds
are preferred by the natives, from an opinion that the flour
rises better in baking ; no very white flour, however, is pre-
pared from such wheat. The sample appears inferior to many
from England ; but the native com bears a higher price in
Madeira, partly perhaps from being cleaner than that which
comes on ship-board from Europe and America. The wheat of
the highlands is different from that grown nearer the sea-shore ;
what is produced on the former ground resembles Odessa

F 2

100 MANURE. [chap. v.

wheat, the natives call it rapoza; the grain of the low lands,
which they call anapil, is finer. In the lighter soils, in a
good year, the yield is only from three to five fold : in better
land from seven to eight fold is obtained ; and under the most
favourable circumstances fourteen or fifteen fold is sometimes
produced. Wheat is not unfrequently sown in continual suc-
cession, the same seed on the same land.

When any rotation of green crops with grain is attempted,
corn is sown one year, and lupines the next ; then corn
again ; or corn for two years, and lupines for one. When
lupines are sown for the purpose of manuring the land, the
practice is to dig them into the ground when they come into
flower, whether it be in wheat lands or vineyards. It would
be well if they were oftener employed in this manner; un-
fortunately many cultivators are disposed to consider it a loss
of their lupines. In some parts of the island, the corn is
followed by beans and sweet potatoes (Convolvulus batata).
the latter being dug up at the end of six months; when
the sweet potato is planted with the vine, it is allowed to
remain in the ground a twelvemonth ; the leaf is used as
food for cattle, but horses will not eat it.

MANURE.

But little manure is used, and no pains taken to preserve
it. The landlord has a right to one-half of the straw pro-
duced, which he generally sells, and the tenant is not obliged
to consume his proportion of the straw on the land he culti-
vates. Thus it has a very small part of its own produce
restored to it. When corn is sown on land where the wild
broom grows, the process of cultivation is this: — the broom is
cut, strewn on the side of the hill, and then set on fire ;
without further preparation, the corn is sown on the ashes.

CHAP. V.J

THRESHING. — GRINDING CORN.

101

A poor crop is obtained, and when the broom has grown
again, in about six years that is, the same process is repeated.

THRESHING.

The general mode of extracting the wheat from the ear is
by driving oxen, attached to a light sledge in which a number
of small sharp stones are fixed, round the circular earthen
threshing floors, which are placed at the corners of the
fields ; in some parishes the flail is used ; barley is almost
always threshed out with flails, or with short thick handdubs.
The grinding was formerly a monopoly, the exclusive right of
it belonging to one family ; now every one is free to grind
for himself.

GRINDING CORN.

The water-mills which grind the larger quantities of corn,
are worked by a single horizontal wheel. The supply of
water is obtained from a levada, beneath which the mill is

HORIZONTAL WHEEL MILL.

built : the water falls on the wheel through a pipe of wood,
broad at the top, and gradually less towards the end. For

102

MAIZE. FLAX. — POTATOES.

[chap. v.

Indian corn hand-mills are used, made of the common scoria-
cious basalt: in these mills, the upper stone fits into the
lower one, as a conical stopper into a bottle ; it is turned by

HAND-MILL.

a fixed upright stick; this stick is frequently tied at the
upper end to the branch of a tree, to give more purchase.

MAIZE.

An attempt is now being made to introduce several varieties
of the milho, or maize, in some parts of the north of the
island : it is intended that it should supersede the vine,
which bears no fruit capable of making good wine in those
districts. One enterprising gentleman imported some men
from the Western Islands, where they are excellent farmers,
to teach the labourers the cultivation of this grain.

FLAX.

A great deal of flax is grown on the northern side of the
island ; in such a climate, the New Zealand flax (Phormium
tenax) might be cultivated with great advantage.

POTATOES.

Potatoes yield about five crops in two years. This plant
has not here escaped the blight which affected it in other
parts of the world, and its loss was severely felt by a popula-
tion dependent on the cheapest description of food; in event

chap, v.] YAMS. — WEEDS. — PINE TREES. 103

of its continued failure, the Chenopodium quinoa, -which has,
I believe, been successfully grown in Madeira by one or two
persons, might, from its hardy and nutritive qualities, become
a useful substitute.

YAMS.

The yam of the West Indies and the coast of Africa is
unknown in Madeira. The plant the natives call inhame the
English have corrupted into yam, from the similarity of
pronunciation. The inhame is a species of arum {Arum colo-
casia). There are two kinds in Madeira, the white and the
red, the latter requiring more water than the former ; to
plant it, a trench is cut near some spring and filled with
branches of broom, which are covered with earth : in this the
root is placed and left to shoot downwards through the
branches. It is a wretched vegetable, and pigs are the only
animals that will eat the leaf.

WEEDS.

In Madeira the very weeds of the soil realize a profit ;
these are worth five pence a bundle in the market- as horse
fodder; they luxuriate everywhere undisturbed amongst
the choicest plants : the vines alone, and those in fruiting
months only, are freed from such noxious companionship.

PINE TREES.

The pine has been brought into extensive cultivation on
the hills; it flourishes on the red tufa, where nothing else will
grow. The pines are sown thickly, and at the end of five
years they are ready for their first thinning ; the process is
commonly repeated each succeeding year for seventeen years.
The leaves are used as bedding for cattle, and the cones

104 SHEEP. — COWS. — INSTRUMENTS OF HUSBANDRY. [CHAP. v.

are collected and sold for fuel, after the seed has been shaken
out to yield its share of profit.

SHEEP.

The sheep of the island are of the Spanish hooked-nose
breed, very small, and of no excellence either for meat or
wool. An English gentleman tried to introduce the South-
down breed, but he found they were not hardy enough for
the cloud-capped serras. When he told his Portuguese hind
that he had given ten and eleven dollars apiece for them in
England, the man shrugged his shoulders and said, " You
might have spent your money better, senhor." The same
gentleman afterwards tried crossing the breed with the native
animals : the cross succeeds well, giving a better flavour and
more flesh to the scraggy mountaineers.

cows.

The Madeira cows, though they produce good working hois,
are bad milkers both as regards quantity and quality. One
would think that the constant importation of Alderneys in
the traders must in time improve the breed ; though perhaps
the roughness of the pasturage has a good deal to do with
the poverty of the milk. The landlords sometimes furnish
their tenants with cattle, and share the profits of the sale.

INSTRUMENTS OF HUSBANDRY.

The instruments employed in agriculture are a plough,
very similar to the old Koman one described by Virgil, and
the enchada, or pick, with which they grub up the ground.
The introduction of an English plough was attempted on
some ground two thousand four hundred feet above the level
of the sea ; an English labourer was also imported to teach

chap, v.] LEVADAS. I 05

the use of it ; nothing, however, could be made of the people
or their oxen, which had been trained to work as ill as their
masters. The harrow has met with more success. This it
must be remembered is on a serra, or elevated plain ; the
hill-side cultivation scarcely admits of the use of ordinary
agricultural implements.

LEVADAS.

The levddas, or courses for the water, are wonderful works ;
they are the result of the labour of centuries, and are still in
progress. The water is gathered by them from its sources in
the mountains; sometimes running through the solid rock,
and sometimes along the sides of perpendicular cliffs, where
it is difficult to conceive how workmen could ever labour;
sometimes carried in wooden pipes over your head ; and some-
times gliding near your feet, and refreshing you as you toil
up the precipitous roads under a hot sun. By these levddas
means of irrigation are afforded to each tenement. Each has
a right to let the water on to his land in turn, and there is a
monthly cycle, or giro, divided into so many hours, made for the
regulation of such turns. The right to water for irrigation is
held by title deeds, in the same manner as any other pro-
perty, and in these deeds the number of hours in each giro
of a levdda is declared. In some levddas the giro is thirty
days, in some more, and in others less. There is frequently
a good deal of partiality on the part of the levddeiro, the
person to whom the division of the water in the main course
is intrusted. Here, where water is riches, there are more
quarrels and lawsuits about this than any other kind of pro-
perty ; and those who do not carefully watch it, when their
turn comes round, may reckon upon being robbed of the

greater part of their water.

f 3

106 DEARTHS. [chap. v.

DEARTHS.

At divers times a want of rain and other causes have com-
bined to create grievous dearths in the island*; in the year

* The following tables of productions, imports, and exports, may serve to
give general notions on the self-supporting capabilities of Madeira : —
Madeira produced the following quantity of pulse and grain in the years

1847. 1848. 1849.

Beans 0 104± 122

Kidney beans 0 240' 281|

Lentils 8 7 11

Barley 503£ 460^ 538|

Rye 259i 261£ 351*

Indian corn 23 46 132

Wheat 2459 1159± 3060^

These quantities are reckoned in moios. There are 3 quarters English in
% moio, and each quarter is 20 alqueires, or 8 bushels Winchester measure.

The importations of pulse and grain to Madeira from Portugal and its
dependencies were as follows, in the years

1847. 1848. 1849.

Horse beans 65 43 62

Kidney beans 211 2 10

Black-eyed peas 14 1 0

Lupines 1 15 0

Barley 1£ 4f 13|

Rye 117| 103 69^

Indian corn 3391 2714 3216

Wheat 1028 1797 2038

And from foreign countries during the same period —

Horse beans 0 1 0

Kidney beans 3 0 0

Oats 34| 0 0

Barley 58 3 0

Rye 4 316 55£

Indian corn 5055 6894 7690

Wheat 2770 3095 2193

The value of all articles, exclusive of wine, exported from the island of
Madeira to Portugal and its dependencies was, in 1848, £1584 12s. 8d.; in
1849, £1628 15s. 9d. : and to foreign ports, in 1848, £1623 7s. lid.; and
in 1849, £1759 12*. Id.

chap, v.] LABOURING CLASSES. — WAGES, ETC. 107

J 847 the failure of the potato, together with the famine in
Ireland, which opened a better market for com elsewhere,
produced great distress in Madeira ; at this time the mercan-
tile class came forward nobly, to assist the sufferers, by a
handsome subscription towards a loan fund for importing pro-
visions.

LABOURING CLASSES.

The labouring classes in general are a fine set of men, but
they cannot be said to be hard workers ; they exert themselves
for a time with much spirit, and in some kinds of work are
capable of great endurance ; but they are wanting in perse-
verance. Their food seems not to be such as is most condu-
cive to the development of muscular vigour. Part of the
year they subsist chiefly on chestnuts ; the yam, the sweet
potato, the Indian corn, and the lupine, form, with the
tunny fish, the complement of their diet. The yam is but a
moderate food ; the sweet potato is better ; the Indian corn,
united with the tunny, or with dried mackerel, is the best
fare of the bulk of the population.

WAGES.

Five pence a day and food are reckoned good wages in the
country; a man, however, seldom gets six days' work together.
In fact, but little money passes from hand to hand ; work is
done chiefly on the give and take system of America, i. e., I
do so much work for you to-day, on condition that you do so
much for me to-morrow. In town, wages vary from one
shilling to fifteen pence per diem.

RELATION BETWEEN LANDLORD AND TENANT.

The land in Madeira is generally cultivated by colonos
(tenants), under a peculiar tenant law. If the tenant resides

108 RELATION BETWEEN [chap. v.

on the ground he leases, he is called a caseiro, from the casa
or house he occupies ; otherwise he is called a meyro, from
the meyo or half produce that he gives his landlord. The
owner of the land is called the senhorio ; he generally pos-
sesses nothing but the land ! the tenant is usually owner of
everything on it, such as trees, vines, walls, houses, embank-
ments, &c, to which the name of bemfeitorias (improvements)
is given. The tenant pays to his landlord one-half of all
the produce of the land. The wine and corn are strictly
looked after; but the oerduras, such as potatoes, cab-
bages, lupines, &c, are often unaccounted for by the tenants.
The landlord by right can demand one-half of the grass, but
it is rarely done ; when the landlord and tenant quarrel, and
the former refuses to give his share of grass to the latter, the
tenant cannot in this case dispose of his own half of it. Where
the landlord is needy, as the greater part now are, this sys-
tem gives rise to a constant watching and suspicion on both
sides, anything but conducive to the mutual good under-
standing which is essential to the due cultivation of the land.
Few of the landlords are now resident on their estates, and
where the steward, or feitor, is too rigorous in exacting his
master's due, he receives very unequivocal marks of the dis-
approbation of the tenants. Few tenements exceed an acre,
but the greater part are not more than one-eighth of that
size. When the leases are farmed out to a middle-man, or
rendeiro, the tenants are sometimes treated with great oppres-
sion. The landlord cannot turn off his tenant, without com-
pensating him for all his useful improvements, except houses,
for which he is not obliged to pay unless they were built with
his permission. The tenant, when he obtains leave to build
a house, is generally obliged to pay annually a trifling ac-
knowledgment to his landlord, such as a fowl, a dozen eggs,

chap, v.] LANDLORD AND TENANT. 109

or the like. The bemfeitorias are valued by two officers
appointed by the camera, who generally put an excessive
price on everything ; a practice which, where the landlord
is poor, goes far towards creating a perpetuity of tenure.
The tenant can sell his improvements without asking his
landlord's consent, and the landlord can dispose of his ground
without communicating his intention to the tenant.

Government takes a tithe of the proceeds of an estate,
before the division is made between landlord and tenant.

The contracto de colonia, or tenure, does not finish with
the death of the landlord or tenant, but continues with their
heirs, and with such as may purchase the land or the im-
provements upon it.

CHAP1EE VI.

THE NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY

OF

MADEIRA.

From a Sketch by Lady Su&an Vernon Harcourt.

Bananas.

Seepage 114.

CHAPTER VI.

ON THE NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY OF MADEIRA.

" Sweet contemplation elevates my sense,
While I survey the works of Providence.
O could the Muse in loftier strains rehearse
The glorious Author of the Universe,
My soul should overflow in songs of praise,
And my Creator's name inspire my lays!"

Gay.

Fire on the south of the island. — Forests on the north side. — Dragon tree.
— Urze. — Palm trees. — Opuntia. — Fruits and Vegetables. — Flowers. —
Plants peculiar to Madeira. — Birds. — Reptiles. — Insects. — Fishes. —
Turtles. — Corals. — Medusae Luminosity of the ocean. — Geology.

So many exotics have been introduced into Madeira, into a
soil and climate favourable to a great range of vegetation,
tbat it is now difficult to draw any line between those which
are really indigenous and others.

FIRE ON THE SOUTH OF THE ISLAND.

On the south side, the woods have never raised their heads
since the great fire which destroyed them on the first coloniza-
tion of the island. In the north, the forests still retain a
great deal of their pristine grandeur, though the axe, ruthless
as the flame, is as surely, though more slowly, doing the work
of destruction*.

* There is a regulation, which, if attended to, would be productive of very
beneficial results, that no one shall cut down a tree on the Serras, without
permission from the municipal authorities of the district ; and furthermore,
all trees growing within a radius of one hundred paces of any fountain, are

112 FORESTS ON THE NORTH SIDE. URZE. [chap. vi.

FORESTS ON THE NORTH SIDE.

These forests are composed chiefly of the family of
Laurus, such as the Til [Lauras fattens), theVinhatico (Laurus
indica) ; and of other families, the Folhado, the Teixo,
Azevinho, Pao Branco, &c. The Til, which grows to a
very large size, is of a dark colour, and the inner wood is
quite black. In the hands of cabinet-makers it produces very
handsome furniture, and in the course of time loses its dis-
agreeable smell. The Vinhatico is the Madeiran mahogany,
not differing much from that wood in colour, and being appli-
cable to similar uses ; its bark is used in making a brown dye.
The most remarkable tree, though there are not at present
any growing here of great size, is the Dragon tree [Dra-
caena draco). It has been found, as Humboldt observes,
in the Canaries, and in Madeira and Porto Santo, from the
earliest times : varieties of it occur in South Africa, the
Isle of Bourbon, and New Zealaud. At Oratava, in Tene-
riffe, I saw a Dragon tree, celebrated both for its extra-
ordinary magnitude and age. At the time of the Spanish
and Norman invasions, in 1402, it was said to have been as
large in the stem as now, that is to say, forty-eight feet in
circumference.

URZE.

The Urze, or arborescent heath, is what is principally used
for firewood iu the town. The carrying large bundles of this
and other woods on their heads to Funchal is computed to give

prohibited from being felled. If the government would take upon itself the
regulation of wood cutting for fuel, and establish a regular cycle of years
for felling trees in different districts, the total loss of the future means
of supply might be prevented.

chap. vi. J PALM TREES. 0PUXTIA. 113

occupation to one-fifth of the inhabitants of the island. As the
Cactus form is almost entirely American, so the heath form,
says Humboldt, specially belongs to the Old World, but more
particularly to the African continent and islands.

The Madeiran Cedar (Juniperus oxycedrus) is a ti*ee of very
graceful growth, which is said to have abounded greatly
when the island was first discovered ; now it is rarely met
with in a wild state.

The most valuable of the trees which have been intro-
duced into the island is the Spanish chestnut, which fur-
nishes food to the population in some of the higher grounds.
The Oak, which is of later introduction, may be said to be in
leaf all the year, for the young leaves begin to appear early in
February, and the last year's foliage is never quite gone
at that time. Two varieties of pines, the Stone Pine and
the Pinaster, grow well in the tufa.

PALM TREES.

Palm trees are not of very frequent occurrence, and are
shorn of their beauty for the religious ceremonies, the leaves
being in requisition on Palm Sunday to adorn the churches.
According to Humboldt, the true climate of palms has a
mean annual temperature of 78°-2 to 810,5.

OPUNTIA.

An Opuntia *, or prickly pear, grows luxuriantly on the
most barren places. It is not turned to the same account by
the cultivation of the cochineal insect on it, as in Teneriffe,
where upwards of sixty thousand pounds' worth of this valu-
able dye is annually exported. The atmosphere of Madeira

* The fruit of this plant is eaten.

114 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. fCHAP. vi.

is said to be too humid for the insect to thrive in, but the ex-
periment has scarcely been tried.

FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.

The fruits winch are brought here to the greatest per-
fection, in addition to the grape, are the orange and the fig, to
which may be added the mulberry : the lemon also, and the
pomegranate, with the strawberry and apple, represent the
products of a temperate latitude ; whilst the pineapple, the
guava, the mango, the shaddock, the custard apple, the
papaw, the Japan meddlar, and the banana *, ripen, a tropical
fruitage, without assistance from art. All European vegeta-
bles grow to perfection.

At the Jardim, Mr. Veitch has succeeded in growing rice
and the principal varieties of the tea plant, at an elevation of
three thousand feet above the sea.

The Tchu-tchu (Sechium edule), or pepinella, as the natives
call it, is an excellent vegetable ; it is a creeper, and grows so
luxuriantly that one seed is sufficient to cover a whole house
with its produce. It resembles vegetable marrow in sub-
stance, but is superior in flavour, and is even said to improve
the taste and quality of bread when added to wheaten flour
Arrowroot is produced abundantly and of good quality in
Madeira. Pumpkins grow to a very large size, and are used
by the natives as the chief ingredient of their favourite dish,
the Sopa Portugueza. The coffee tree flourishes in their
grounds, and plentifully supplies their tables.

* " 'T is almost a crime inexpiable to cut this fruit with a knife, which
after dissection gives a faint similitude of our Saviour crucified ; and this
they say is to wound his sacred image." — Ovington's Voyage to Suratt, 1689.

chap, vi.] FLOWERS. PLANTS PECULIAR TO MADEIRA, ETC. 115

FLOWERS.

The flowers of every country thrive carelessly in the gardens.
The fuchsias are formed into perpetual hedges, and horses
are fed with the clippings. Camellias attain the height of
from fifteen to twenty-five feet. A stranger being told that
there were fine camellias grown at the Palheiro, went up
there for the purpose of seeing them, but sought them in
vain, and was coming away disappointed, when it was hinted
to him to look up, and there, far out of reach, he saw the
wax-like flowers of purest white and darkest scarlet. Myrtle
trees are to be seen, which are more than three feet in cir-
cumference, and the Urze grows to a similar size. The
Magnolia, the Solandra, the Datura, the Judas tree, the
Spike Coral, the Turpentine tree, the Camphor laurel, seve-
ral varieties of Acacia, the Eucalyptus and the Strelitzia, the
Justicia, the Crista Galli (Erythrina), the Oleander, the Eu-
phorbia, the Hibiscus, and many other beautiful flowering
shrubs, are amongst the ornaments of a Madeira garden.

PLANTS PECULIAR TO MADEIRA.

Humboldt says, that " though the whole archipelago con-
tains several plants found in Portugal, in Spain, at the Azores,
and in the north-west of Africa, a great number of species,
and even genera, are peculiar to Teneriffe, to Porto Santo,
and Madeira. Such are the Mocanera, the Plocama, the
Bosea, the Canarina, and the Drusa."

BIRDS.

The birds of Madeira are less numerous than might be
expected in so genial a climate, and most of them, where they
differ from European species, are merely varieties.

1 1 6 BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED, chap. vi.

BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED.

The Kestrels are very numerous and very tame, perching
on the roofs of houses, from whence they dart frequently at
Canary birds hanging in their reed cages outside the win-
dows, and generally succeed in securing their prey. They
live principally on lizards, grasshoppers, and mice.

The Buzzard is seldom seen about the town, but confines
his flights to the highest mountains, feeding on small birds,
insects, and reptiles.

The Bam Owl inhabits the ravines in small numbers: it is
a little darker than the British owl. It may be remarked
that all the birds of Madeira are darker than their European
brethren.

The Blackbird, which in some parts is very plentiful, does
not differ from the English bird.

The Redbreast, which more than any other bird reminds
one of home, is very common: it is frequently caged, and
seems to flourish in capitivity.

The Black-cap Warbler, which is here the most domestic
songster, has been sometimes called the Madeira Nightingale.
There is a fulness in its warble which in a degree justifies
such praise. Its plumage is sometimes rather darker than
that of the English black-cap. A Madeiran variety of this
bird has been described by Sir W. Jardine* as a new species,
under the name of Curruca Heineken. Dr. Heineken, how-
ever, in a paper in the Zoological Journal, No. 17, Art. xvii.,
controverted the supposition of its being a distinct species,
and there is reason to believe that he is right. The popular
belief amongst the natives is, that where the nest of a " Tinto

* Edin. Journ. of Nat. and Geog. Science, Jan., 1830, p. 243, vol. i.

chap, vi.] BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED. 117

Negro"* contains five eggs, the fifth always turns out a " Tinto
Negro de Capello." The variety is much prized, for -where
you could buy a common "Tinto Negro "for sixpence or a
shilling, you would be asked eight or ten shillings for a
" Tinto Negro de Capello." The dimensions of the two birds
are precisely the same in all particulars. The chief difference
consists in the black cap being extended in tbe variety to the
shoulders, and I have sometimes seen the black colour ex-
tended over all the under parts. The under parts are gene-
rally much the same as those of the common female black-cap,
and the upper parts as those of the common male.

The Wren is one of the prettiest feathered inhabitants of
Madeira. It is a true Regulus, but appears to differ from any
of the three European species best known, namely, Cristatus,
Ignicapillus, or Modestus. It has the beak black, the fore-
head white, which colour extends backwards, forming a small
band ; the base of the crest is black, the crest itself bright
orange, in that respect differing from the Ignicapillus, which
is a fiery red ; from the beak to the eye there is a small
black band, which does not go beyond the eye, and in that
respect also it differs from Ignicapillus ; the upper part of the
neck and all the back are olive green, with a bright mark of
orange yellow on each side of the neck; the great wiDg
coverts are nearly black, and tipped with buffy-white, forming
a band ; the primaries brownish black, with a narrow external
edging of green ; the secondaries the same, but with a broad
velvet black mark at the base ; the tail feathers brownish
black, tinged with greenish yellow on the outer web ; the
chin and throat white, slightly tinged with green ; the rest of
the under parts of the body white, tinged with yellowish-

* From " Tontiqo," occiput, and " negro." black.

118 BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED, [chap. vi.

green ; the under -wing coverts white ; the legs pale brown ;
the entire length is four inches ; from the cai*pus to the end
of the wing two inches and a quarter ; the length of the
tarsus is three-quarters of an inch ; the middle toe and claw
half an inch; the fourth, fifth, and sixth quill feathers are
of equal length, and the longest in the wing. Believing so
small a bird to have but a limited range, and not finding it
even amongst the birds of the Canary Islands described by
Webb and Berthelot, or amongst the birds of Africa, I ven-
ture to give it the name of " Regulus Madeirensis." It lives
amongst the laurel forests, in the less frequented parts of the
island.

The Spectacle Warbler is very locally distributed. It is
found in brakes and bushes in some of the unfrequented
parts.

The Gray Wagtail is very common, frequenting the cisterns
attached to houses, as well as the streams, where, from its
familiar habits amongst the washerwomen, it has been ad-
mitted, in Madeiran phraseology, into the ranks of the sister-
hood, under the title of " Lavandeira."

The Meadow Pipet is plentifully found on the cliffs and
fields near the sea and on the serras. It utters a low
note, running along the ground, and never taking a long
flight.

The Green Canary is the original stock of the bird so well
known to us as the yellow Canary. It flies about in large
flocks with linnets and other birds, and is easily distinguished
by its song, which is the same as that of the captive variety.
The price of a good singing canary either in Madeira or the
Canary Islands varies from five to nine shillings, so that, in
fact, it may be bought much cheaper in London. This bird
has been admirably described by Dr. Heineken in these

chap. vi. j BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED. 119

words*: — "It is very familar, haunting and breeding in
gardens about the city. It is a delightful songster, with,
beyond doubt, much of the nightingale's and skylark's, but
none of the woodlark's song, although three or four skylarks
in confinement in Funchal are the only examples of any of
these three birds in the island, and notwithstanding the
general opinion, that such notes are the result of education
in the canary. It is in full song about nine months in the
year. I have heard one sing on the wing and passing from
one tree to another at some distance, and am told that
during the pairing season this is very common. Each flock
has its own song, and, from individuals in the same garden
differing considerably, I suspect that of each nest varies more
or less. After the breeding season they flock along with
linnets, goldfinches, &c, and are then seldom seen in gardens.
An old bird caught and put into a cage will sometimes sing
almost immediately, but seldom liv3s longer than the second
year in confinement. The young from the nest are difficult to
rear, dying generally at the first moult. They cross readily with
the domesticated variety, and the progeny are larger, stronger,
better breeders, and, to my taste, better songsters also, than
the latter ; but a pure wild song from an island canary at liberty,
in full throat, and in a part of the country so distant from the
haunts of men that it is quite unsophisticated, is unequalled
in its kind, by anything I have ever heard in the way of bird-
music."

The Goldfinch is very common, and differs in no respect
from our own.

The Ring-Sparrow here takes the place, in a way, of our
house-sparrow. It is universal, on the bleak serras, near

* Zoological Journal, No. 17, Art. xvii.

120 BIEDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED, [chap. VI.

houses, on the rocks by the sea — there is no place that it does
not frequent: it differs thus in habits, though in nothing
else, from the ring-sparrow of Europe.

The Buff-breasted Chaffinch is nearly identical with the bird
figured, under the name of FringiUa tintillon, in Webb and
Berthelot's work on the Canary Islands.

The Greater ftedpole, or Linnet, is very abundantly met
with : it differs from the English linnet only in retaining its
carmine colouring, which is very bright, through the year.

The Lesser Swift is mentioned in Brewster's Journal by
Dr. Heinekerj under the title of "Black-chinned Swift:" this
property is, however, by no means general amongst the spe-
cies. I have several in my possession with the chin fully as
white as that of the common swift: one of the chief differ-
ences is in size, the unicolor being much the smallest ; the
tail is forked about an inch and a half, and the plumage is
rather darker than that of the common swift.

The Common Swift is not quite so plentiful as the lesser
swift ; both species remain in the island throughout the year ;
their nests are built in the cliffs ; their habits vary from
those of swifts in England; here they seem to take the place
of the swallow, hunting and skimming along the ground in a
manner that would appear very degrading to their northern
brethren. Dr. Heineken says*, " The swallow and snipe are
said to be periodical visitors, and the reason both for the
migratory habits of these birds, as well for the stationary
habits of the woodcock and swift, is very readily to be found,
I suspect, in one common cause, namely, food. The wood-
cock finds its food about spring-heads, the margins of little
mountain-rills, water-courses, &c. These are neither dried

* Zoological Journal, No. 17, Art. xvii.

CHAP, vi.] BIEDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED. 121

up here during our hottest summers, nor frozen in the
severest winters. The swift preys on insects universally,
but throughout the summer on a moth which abounds so on
our most parched and sterile serras, tbat what with the
insects and the birds the place seems all alive. The snipe
requires a tolerable quantity of poachy, moist, decomposing
soil, for the production of its food, and this, even in winter,
is both scarce and very local, while at other times there is not
a square yard in the whole island ; and the swallow requires
insects which are found only over streams, and something
approaching to rivers, which we make but a sorry figure in
at the wettest of seasons, and are entirely without six months
in twelve."

The Ring-dove appears to be rather larger than the Eng-
lish bird, in other respects it is similar ; it lives in the forests
on the north side of the island.

The Long-toed Wood Pigeon has been described by Dr.
Heineken in Brewster's Journal, under the name of Co-
lumba trocaz. It is about an inch longer than the Ma-
deiran ring-dove ; one of its chief peculiarities, and which
seems to have escaped observation, is the great length
of its centre toe, being more than an inch longer than
that of the ring-dove; it has a silvery ring all round its
neck,and is darker in its general plumage than the ring-
dove. It inhabits the forests on the north side of the
island, feeding upon grasses and the acorns of the laurel
trees.

The Rock Pigeon inhabits the sea cliffs and rocks in the
ravines all over the island : there is a variety here which is
darker in its plumage and in the colour of its feet than the
common rock pigeon. Purchas relates that " at first the
pigeons suffered themselves to be taken, not knowing, and

G

122 BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA DESCRIBED, [chap. vi.

therefore not fearing, a man;" and Sir Hans Sloane tells us
that " wild peacocks and pigeons were here caught in abund-
ance with perches at first."

The Red-legged Partridge is shot on the serras; sports-
men in Madeira must be prepared for hard work and a
light bag, for the walking is very difficult, and the game
scarce.

The Quail is more plentiful than the partridge, and ap-
proaches nearer to the habitations of man; it pairs, laying
about sixteen eggs, and has three or four broods in the
season.

The Woodcock is found chiefly in the west, and on the
Paul da Serra sometimes plentifully; it is a large bird, but I
think of inferior flavour.

The Tern appears chiefly at the Dezerta Islands and at
Pt. Sa.° Laurence

The Herring Gull is common everywhere : Dr. Renton
says it is quicker by some months in obtaining its mature
plumage than -with us.

The Cinereous Shearwater breeds plentifully on the
Dezerta Islands ; its cry, whether on the wing or on
shore, is very peculiar ; the natives salt it, and consider it
eatable.

The Manks Shearwater is also very plentiful at the De-
zertas ; it is easily to be distinguished from the Dusky Shear-
water, which is another inhabitant of the Dezertas, by its
superior size, and by the colour of its feet ; in the dusky
shearwater the feet are bluish ash-colour, and in the Manks
shearwater flesh-colour; in the dusky shearwater all the
secretions are green, and in Manks shearwater yellow;
the dusky shearwater is a very tame bird, and will live
upon almost anything ; it runs along the ground on its

chap. VI.] REPTILES. 123

belly, and uses its curious shaped bill in climbing up the
rocks.

The Angel Petrel of Heineken is said to have the tail
slightly forked, and to differ from the other smaller petrels in
having no white about the rump or flanks.

The Bulwer's Petrel has been described by Sir W. Jar-
dine*; it is very common on the Dezerta Islands ; when ap-
proached it emits a highly offensive matter. Sir W. Jardine
says, " It is easily distinguished from any other by having the
two centre tail feathers elongated, as in the genus Lestris,
and not even or forked like the other petrels.'' It is probably
identical with the angel petrel.

There is another petrel called by the natives " Roque de
Castro," and pronounced " Koque de Crasto," which is like-
wise an inhabitant of the Dezerta Islands ; it differs from
Leach's petrel, to which it is closely allied, in being larger ;
it has a shorter wing and shorter tarsus, though its entire
length is greater ; it has. also a square tail instead of a forked
one. It measures seven inches and a half entire length ;
from the carpus to the end of the wing, five inches and three-
quarters ; tarsus, three-quarters of an inch. I have called it
Thalassidroma castro, as I am not aware that it has ever
been described before.

REPTILES.

There are no venomous reptiles in the island. A brown
lizard (Lacerta duges, Edw.) is to be seen on every wall.
These are very destructive to vineyards. Frogs have been in-
troduced of late years.

* Sir W. Jardine on the Birds of Madeira, Edin. Journ. of Nat. and
Geog. Science, Jan., 1830, p. 245, and Illustrations of Ornithology, by Jard.
and Selb.

G 2

124 FISHES. — TURTLES. chap. vi.

FISHES.

Several fishes known in the Mediterranean and on the
south coast of England frequent these shores, and they have
many more peculiar to themselves. As far as the table is
concerned, the John Dory (Zeus), the Gray Mullet {Mugil
cephalus), and the Red Mullet (a genus of the Percidce),
are by far the best. The rest, though very numerous, are
mostly insipid. The Tunny (Thynnus) forms one of the
principal articles of food of the poor. It is caught in
amazing quantities on the coast, and attains a great size,
being sometimes nine or ten feet in length. The flesh is
coloured : it is sold at one penny or a halfpenny per pound,
and sometimes even much cheaper.

To catch the Tunny a large hook is run through the tail or
back of a live mackerel, which is allowed to swim with a long
line. The hook is sometimes taken by sharks, of which there
are several species, including the hammer-headed (Zygana
Malleus, Val.). The Swordfish also (Xiphias gladius,~Lmn.)
is occasionally caught in the bay. On a quiet day you may
see the whole surface of the water glisten with little crea-
tures floating on their sides as if they were dead ; they never
attempt to escape, and on closer inspection prove to be the
Trumpet-fish, deserving their name from a prolongation of
the mouth into a tube like a pipe about an inch long. At the
fall of the tide, which rises here nine feet, lobsters, crabs, and
shrimps are caught in the crevices of the rocks.

On the Dezerta Islands seals are to be found throughout
the year.

TURTLES.

The Hawk-billed Turtle (Caretta) is plentiful, and is used

chap, vi.] INSECTS. 125

for the table, though the soup is not comparable to that made
from the green turtle of hotter climates.

INSECTS.

The insects of Madeira have not yet been completely in-
vestigated. A few of the more peculiar have been described
by Mr. Bowdich, and a larger collection has recently been
made by an English entomologist well qualified to do justice
to the subject.

The Death 's-Head Moth (Acherontia atropos) is com-
mon ; so is the Humming-bird Hawk Moth {Sphinx stel-
latarum), which hovers over every flower in the hottest
sun, taking a sip of each as it hurries along. There are also
several varieties of the Diuma. There are several species of
Ants : a very minute one which pervades the houses is highly
destructive ; it is next to impossible to preserve any speci-
mens of birds or insects from its ravages. You eat it in
your puddings, vegetables, and soups, and wash your hands
in a decoction of it. There are several kinds of Libelhda,
Saltoria, Blatta, Coccinella, Rhyncophora, &c, with some
water insects.

Yet in this climate, so favourable to existence of all sorts,
the Mosquito, that plague of most hot countries, is com-
paratively innocuous. Not so that familiar insect which
loves a temperature such as best suits ourselves, neither
very hot nor very cold. The common flea thrives in the
streets and boats of Funchal. Some of the varieties of the
spider here are curious. The Cactus Spider is striped like
a zebra, with bands of silver, yellow, and brown. There
is also a large black spider, which the natives believe to be
venomous.

120 CORALS. MEDUS.E. — LUMINOSITY OF THE OCEAN. [OHAF. vi.

CORALS.

A few species of the tribe of corals are fished up from great
depths. Amongst the most remarkable are the Gorgoniaver-
rucosa, Sol., having a stem which forms the axis of an outer
calcareous coat; its cells are on both sides of the stem, which
branches out in a fan-shape form. These corals are often
covered with an elegant bivalve shell, the Avicula Mr undo,
Var., Aculiata. There is another coral, which has a delicate
scarlet hue for some time after it is taken out of the water ;
but as the colour depends on the animal tissue, it disappears
when this undergoes decomposition.

MEDUSA.

Star-fish, sea hedgehogs, and sponges are found on the
coast. The Caravel, or Portuguese man-of-war, which Sir
Hans Sloane described as Urtica marina, solnta, purpuria,
oblonga, cirrhis longissimis, with the delicate pink and blue
tints of their tiny transparent sails, sometimes cover the
waters of the bay like floating soap bubbles. Humboldt
mentions as having seen off Madeira the Medusa aurita of
Baster, the Medusa pelagica of Bosc, &c, with eight ten-
tacula (Pelagia denticuluta, Peron), and a third species,
which he says " resembles the Medusa hysocella, and which
Vandelli found at the mouth of the Tagus. It is known
by its brownish yellow colour, and by its tentacula, which
are longer than the body. They are sometimes four inches in
diameter, and their changeable colours of violet and purple
form an agreeable contrast with the azure tint of the ocean."

LUMINOSITY OF THE OCEAN.

Sir Joseph Banks, on his passage from Madeira to Rio de

chap, vi.] GEOLOGY. 127

Janeiro, observed the sea in those parts to be unusually
luminous, flashing like lightning. On examining the water
he discovered two kinds of animals that occasioned this ap-
pearance. The one he called Cancer fulgens, a crustaceous
insect ; the other pellucens, a species of Medusa. The former
of these somewhat resembles a small shrimp, and light ap-
pears to issue from every part of its body. The latter,
which is the most luminous of all zoophytes, measures about
six inches across ; its central part is opaque, and from it de-
pend several long tentacula. Numerous other reasons have
been given for the luminosity of the ocean, which has
been deemed phosphoric by some, and electrical by others.
Macartney, Humboldt, and many others have entered at
length into a discussion on this subject. Humboldt says
that " the luminous appearance of the sea is due partly to
living animals, and partly to organic fibres and membranes
derived from the destruction of these living torchbearers."

GEOLOGY.

The first description of the geology of Madeira which I
have met with is contained in the posthumous work of
Bowdich, a traveller whose name belongs to the list of those
that have fallen victims to an ardent zeal for science, and who
died, soon after quitting Madeira, under the burning suns of
Ashantee. In this work, published by his widow, who nobly
accompanied him on the hazardous enterprise in which he
perished, there is a general account of the eruptive rocks
of which the island chiefly consists, and there is mention also
of a stratified limestone, near Sa.° Vincente, to which his at-
tention was directed by Mr. Veitch. The highly-inclined
position and crystalline character of this calcareous rock led
Mr. Bowdich to regard it as tbat which some geologists have

128 GEOLOGY. Tchap. VI.

termed transition limestone, or one of the lowest of the
sedimentary formations of which the crust of the earth is
known to be composed.

A gentleman, however, belonging to a more advanced
school of geology *, who has visited Madeira within a few
years, has shown that this supposition was erroneous, and
from the fossil shells, or rather casts of shells, which
he obtained in such a condition that he was enabled
to determine the genera, though not the species, to
which they belong, concluded the formation to be of the
Tertiary epoch. My father, to whom I owe the present
sketch of the geology of the island, discovered in the cal-
careous rock of Sa.° Vincente numerous specimens of a very
remarkable species of Echinanthus, the E. alius of Gray, or
Clypeaster altus of Lamarck. This species is figured by
Scilla amongst the fossils of Malta. It is found in the
Miocene beds of that island, of Italy, and of Greece. De
Verneuil, in his notice of a geological map of Spain, says
that " in the Sierra Morena, near Cordova, are to be seen, in
a horizontal position in contact with the old rocks, the
Miocene beds with huge Clypeaster altus." f If we take this
fossil, then, as characteristic of the Miocene period, we have
a continuous line of tbat deposit established nearly east and
west from Greece to Madeira; and at the latter place its
formation has occurred in one of the intervals of a series
of basaltic eruptions and disturbances to which the island
owed its existence.

The general correspondence of the shells and corals of this
bed in Madeira with that found at a lower level in the neigh-

* Mr. Smith of Jardine Hill, see Geol. Trans., vol. iii. part ii. No. 73.
+ British Association Report, 1S50.

chap, vi.] GEOLOGY. 129

bouring Isle of Baxio (Porto Santo) leaves no doubt that tbey
have belonged to the same period. The latter bed, coming
out in the sea board instead of the interior, as at Sa.° Vincente,
and consequently better situated for access and transport,
is alone worked at present, and supplies the lime-kilns of
Funchal. Amongst the species of shells observed in it are
Cardium, Chama, Conus, Cypraea, Gastrochama, Lithodomus,
Pecten, Spondylus, Turritella, Vermetus ; and it contains
numerous specimens of very delicately-preserved corals. Be-
tween these fossils and the casts of similar fossils from
Malta, in the British Museum, there is also an observable
correspondence.

The fossils in both islands are mingled with basaltic pebbles,
and in many specimens include them. In my father's collec-
tion from the Isle of Baxio is a Spondylus (Gaderopus ?)
which carries the marks of its attachment to a basaltic rock.
The beds, both in the Isle of Ba\io and at Sa.° Vincente are
penetrated by basaltic dikes, and are covered by, as well as
based upon, basalt, the contact of which has given in many
parts to the calcareous matter the crystalline structure of
marble. Thus it appears that, after the basaltic rocks had
been extensively spread beneath the level of the sea, a period
of repose had succeeded, during which, through an area ex-
tending from Madeira at least to Porto Santo, a bed of shells
and corals had formed upon them, and that this bed was
afterwards penetrated and overlaid by an irruption of similar
materials, in the course of which it was lifted up at Sao Vin-
cente to the height of 1700 feet above the sea level. In the
Isle of Baxio, on the western side, the same bed is stated to be
not more than 50 feet above the water. A gallery, 6 feet
high, has been worked through the islet to the eastward, and
there the limestone emerges at an elevation of 400 or 500 feet.

g 3

130 GEOLOGY. [chap. vi.

If we extend our geological view from these islands to the
Canaries, we do not find, at least in Teneriffe, the same fossil
bed ; but we perceive, nevertheless, in the mineral masses of
which that island is composed, evidence of its belonging to the
same formation. In Teneriffe the lofty central crest of moun-
tains, so well described by Von Buch as a crater of elevation,
consists of a trachytic rock, that is to say, a rock largely
felspathic, of a rough fracture, and marked by numerous
crystals of glassy felspar. Mantling round the base of the tra-
chytic mountains lie the basaltic strata, which line the coast,
and, associated with these, beds of cinders and tufa variously
coloured. The vineyards, both of Teneriffe and Madeira, are
planted in the tufas, several varieties of which readily form a
fruitful soil. Not only the general disposition of this series,
but many of the details of it, are identical in the two islands ;
and, in particular, the seams of tufa have the same peculiari-
ties of mineral contents. These beds are best seen along
a considerable section of the coast of Madeira, in the neigh-
bourhood of Funchal. They lie in horizontal strata, covering,
and interposed between, basaltic lavas, by which at many
points they are dislocated and pierced. Their stratification
is marked by the different colours of the seams— red, yellow,
brown, and black. Their substance seems to be no other
than that of disintegrated, incoherent, basalt, in different
states of oxygenation, as regards the iron with which they
are coloured. Where the red variety is consolidated in con-
tact with super-imposed streams of basaltic lava, it some-
times assumes, in both islands, the prismatic form of co-
lumnar basalt. Amongst the materials of which these strata
consist certain seams of pumice nodules, occupying the same
place in the yellow tufa of either island, is especially charac-
teristic.

chap. vi.J GEOLOGY. 131

Mr. Bennet* observed a pumice-bearing tufa in tbe in-
terior of tbe curral, near the bottom, at tbe depth, that is, of
several thousand feet beneath the summits of the walls of that
great central crater. These consist of a series of tufas and
conglomerates which rise, pierced by dikes, and surmounted
with crests of basalt, to a height above the sea of five and
six thousand feet; if, therefore, the bed observed by Mr.
Bennet is identical with that which appears on the southern
coast, it is certain that this lies low in the series of the rocks
of Madeira.

Mr. Smith has remarked that the seams of pumice " often
contain portions of heavier volcanic products, as. cinders or
scoria?, dispersed without regard to gravitation, proving that
the various materials could not have been deposited under the
sea, because in water they would instantly have separated ac-
cording to their respective weights ;" and he proceeds to con-
clude that " the volcanic products of the island, being
subaerial, the curral is not a crater of elevation, though it
agrees with the characters assigned to such craters ;" and he
is further induced to "infer, from the resemblance of the
Curral das Freiras to the more ancient portions of Teneriffe
and the other Canary Islands, said to be craters of elevation
raised from beneath the level of the sea, that a wrong con-
clusion has been drawn respecting them." The supposition,
however, on which this large inference was grounded seems to
be without foundation. A single shower of materials of un-
equal specific gravities might possibly be completely sifted by
falling through water ; but in case of consecutive showers no
such effect would follow, since the different rates of descent
would be variously compensated by the different times of
ejection : but, in point of fact, the nodules of pumice do

* See Geol. Trans., vol. i. p. 391, No. 17.

132 GEOLOGY. [chai\ vi.

lie in continuous seams sufficiently distinct to justify the
idea that they have been separated and arranged by sub-
sidence. Meanwhile it is very probable that these materials
have not been projected into the air, but poured forth in
torrents of a consistence muddy or granular, in which dif-
ferences of specific gravity would exercise an imperfect ope-
ration. When we come to a mineralogical inspection of
specimens, we see further that the temperature required to
account for the formation of these beds must greatly have
exceeded that of the boiling mud thrown out by existing
volcanoes ; for this pumice differs from that which we find con-
joined with obsidian amongst subaerial volcanic products in one
remarkable respect — in containing, that is, prismatic crystals
of two kinds, the one colourless and transparent, being pro-
bably glassy felspar, the other black and opaque, believed to
be augite. The tufa, likewise, in which the pumice nodules
are embedded contains itself crystals of the latter kind, pre-
cisely the same as those which have been formed in the pumice.
The whole mass, then, at the time of its formation has been
subject to conditions in which very powerful disintegrating
and combining forces have been in simultaneous operation,
conditions foreign from that which has produced the vitreous
pumice of obsidian lavas.

But another species of mineral occurs in these beds, both
at Madeira and Teneriffe, which throws light on the question
of the order and period of volcanic formation to which they
belong. In the tufas which have been cut through near Mr.
Veitch's quinta, at the Gorgulho, the author found, together
with sheets of carbonate of lime, plates and infiltrations of
Quartz resinite. The same opaline substance occurs similarly
in Teneriffe ; but the occurrence of opal, that is to say, of
a hydrate of silica containing water, as a large and essential

CHAP. VI.

GEOLOGY. 133

constituent, affiliates the beds in which it is found to the
basaltic or trap rocks. Such are not the products of recent
volcanoes any more than of furnaces. The silicioiis sinter
formed even by the boiling eruptions of Hecla contains no
water. Hydrated silicates seem to belong peculiarly to trap
formations.

The scanty list of other minerals found in Madeira cor-
roborates these views. The Zeolites, which in the vicinity of
Porta da Cruz abound in the lavas, correspond with the opal
of the tufas in the character of being hydrates. Augite and
olivine, minerals characteristic of basalt, occur in every rock.
Specular and micaceous iron are found near St. Jorge. The
specimens of iron pyrites which are occasionally met with
may perhaps be of recent formation ; but there are no other
minerals of modern aspect, no sulphur, no obsidian or obsi-
dianic pumice, no silicious sinter. A small deposit of car-
bonaceous matter*, without any marks of organization, is
found in the ravine of St. Jorge ; but there are no remains
in Madeira of plants, animals, or soil, buried beneath tufa or
lava; with the exception of the tertiary bed already described,
there is nowhere a trace of organic substance beneath the
present " habitats " of organic life. The ramifications of car-
bonate of lime which have spread through portions of the
tufa, and have been supposed to represent ancient fibres and
roots of plants, are for the most part the effect only of capil-
lary infiltration, and where tubular structure indicates that
they have encrusted vegetable fibres which have since disap-
peared, they are not beyond the reach of the roots of recent

* The following analysis of this lignite is given by Mr. Smith as made
by Professor Johnstone : —

Carbon 60'7

Hydrogen 5-82

Oxygen and Nitrogen . . . 33-47

134 GEOLOGY. [chap. vi.

plants. The fossil bed, as it is called, of Canical, forms no
exception to this statement. On that neck of land the wind
blows away the basaltic sand from many fantastic forms of
calcareous infiltration, which present the aspect of roots
turned into limestone. These pseudo-roots, however, showing
no other structure than that of an aggregation of lime and
sand, probably owe their forms to the direction of the roots
of plants which may have grown on the spot at no very dis-
tant time, but at a time when a portion of calcareous tufa,
since weathered away, supported a vegetation which no longer
exists. In the same place is a deposit of land and fresh-
water shells. Most, if not all of them, have been identified
with species existing either in Madeira or in Porto Santo.

All the volcanic beds, then, of which Madeira consists,
whether tufa, conglomerates, or lava, correspond with those
which in the Mediterranean and other parts of the world
appear to have been upheaved from the bed of the sea by a
great and general explosion of subterranean forces at the
Miocene period of the tertiary epoch. There is no crater of
eruption to be found from which lavas can be presumed to
have run down, or the tufas to have been ejected. The whole
island, from the lowest of the lateral knolls to the highest
peaks of the mountains, consists of tufas and conglomerates
piled upon each other, composed of trachytic and basaltic
materials, cemented by a similar paste, and injected by
basaltic dikes which rise from below and penetrate them,
sometimes partially, and sometimes to their very summits.
There are points, as, for instance, in the vast detached hill
of the Penha d'Aguia, where it is easy to observe that these
dikes spring from beds which appear as a vesicular scoriaceous
lava at the waters edge. It is evident, therefore, that at the
time when the elevation of the mountains took place, the

CHAP. VI.

GEOLOGY. 135

beds of -which they are formed were split at innumerable
points, and that the basaltic lava rose in every split, and
issued at every pore. It is further to be inferred, from what
has been said, that at a time anterior to this elevation of the
land a space equal to its area below the surface of the sea
had been covered with those beds of conglomerate, tufa, and
lava, which make up the body of the island. Nothing is
more probable than the supposition that the elevation itself
was due to the expansion and explosion of steam and gases,
and that the Curral and ravines of Madeira, as well as the
canadas and barrancos of Teneriffe, are due to the mechani-
cal effects of such an expansion riving the rocks, qua-qua-
versally, from a central crater of elevation. At Teneriffe the
phenomena are slightly modified by the repetition of erup-
tions in subsequent times ; but in Madeira there appears to
be no evidence of any eruptions not coeval with the island.

As for the geological " locus" of the subterranean forces
of elevation and eruption, it appears to lie here, as in so
many other cases, in or beneath a trachytic formation. In
Teneriffe the crater of elevation is all trachytic. In Madeira
a well-characterized trachytic rock appears in the ravine of
Faial, near Porta da Cruz, beneath the crater of elevation,
which, as has been stated, consists entirely of basaltic tufas,
conglomerates, and lava.

That there is a general identity in the source of all volcanic
action no one can doubt who observes the uniformity of vol-
canic products, under similar conditions, in all parts of the
world. It may be presumed, perhaps, that the correspond-
ence and contemporaneousness of earthquakes in distant
volcanic foci are due to this cause. One of the statements of
such a correspondence in Madeira is that " the undulation
from the Lisbon earthquake in 175,5 reached this island soon

136 GEOLOGY. [chap. vi.

after it visited Portugal." It may be questioned, however,
whether we have here an instance of the rapidity of undula-
tions, or rather of the simultaneous exertion of volcanic
forces, proportionally affecting at the same moment certain
weak points of the surface of the earth. Countries raised
by volcanic action so late as the tertiary period appear to
be still more subject than others to earthquakes, and Madeira
is not an exception to this rule.

APPENDIX.

LIST OF PLANTS, BIEDS, ETC.

MADEIRA.

From a Sketch by Lady Susan Vernon Harcourt.

English Burial Ground.

See pa

APPENDIX.

SIR HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PLANTS.

The following list of some of the plants of Madeira is
curious, as being one of the earliest notices of the botany of
the island. It was drawn up by Sir Hans Sloane during his
Adsit to Madeira in 1687 *. In an inner margin of the page
are given the Linnsean names, which I found in some mar-
ginal pencil notes to an old edition of Sir Hans Sloane's
works in the library of West Dean House, Sussex : they
are evidently the work of no mean botanist. To these a
few corrections are added in brackets, by the Rev. Mr.
Lowe, from whose scientific skill and intimate acquaintance
with the Flora and Sylva of the island a more accurate ac-
count of its botanical products may hereafter be looked for.

" Oleastre species ut quiclam put ant, ut alii Zizyplms alba.
Gesn. hort. Germ.fol. 269. Olea Sylvestris folio molli in-
cano, C. B., Pin. p. 472.

" Elegans angustifolia. Linn. Sp. pi. 774.

* Voyage to Jamaica, vol. i. p. 7, edit. 1707.

138 SIR HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

" Lapthum pulchrum Bononiense sinuatum, J. B. Fidle
Dock.

" Rumex pulcher. Linn. Sp. pi. 774.

" Jasminum tertium seu humilius magnoflore, C. B., p. 398.
Catalonicum. Park. Parad.

"Jasminum grandiflorum. Linn. Sp. pi. 9.

" Arum maximum Mgyptiacum, quod vulgo Colocasia, C. B.,
Pin.,ix 195.

" This is here planted by river sides in great quantities,
for the root's sake, which is eaten, and very much es-
teemed, the leaves being good for nothing but to wrap up
things in.

o

" Arum colocasia. Linn. Sp. pi. 136S.

" Arundo Donax sive Cyprla Dod., p. 602. The great Sjyanish
or Cyjwus Keed and Cane.

" Arundo donax. Linn. Sp. pi. 120.

" Rata quarta seuruta sylvestris minor, C. B., Pin., p. 332.
" (Ruta angustifolia. Pers.)

" Hypericon minus. Dod., p. 75. The least trailing St. Johns
Wort.

" Hypericum humifusum. Linn. Sp. pi. 11 05.

" Muscus marinus plumiformis ramidis et foliis densissimis ca-
pillaceis. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 6.

" This, from a broad base sticking to stones, or other
solids at the bottom of the sea, rises to be about three
inches high, being divided into several branches, and they
into twigs, which were subdivided into smaller branches,
set with long, round, short leaves, no bigger than hairs,

appendix.J SIB HANS SLOANE's LIST OF PLANTS. ] 39

coming out of opposite sides of the middle rib or stalk, of
a glue or darkish yellow colour, which did not crackle under
the teeth. They look just like feathers, and were more
thick branched and set with twigs than any other of the
Abies-Marina-Belgica kind I ever saw.

" I found this thrown up by the waves on the shore of
the Island of Madeira, near the town of Funchal.

" Lenticula palustris sextet vel JEgyptiaca, sive stratiotes aqua-
tica foliis sedo majore latioribus, C. B. Pin., p. 362.

" I found this plant either in the Island of Madeira or
Barbadoes floating on the water, having several capillary
brown fibres for its roots, and appearing nerves on the
upper sides of the leaves, which, because it seems to differ
very little from that of Alpinus, this not being Hirsute, I
take to be the same, and his differing from that of Ves-
lingius, but in little, I think them not to be two plants.

" It is used for the same diseases as plantain, either
outwardly or inwardly, in juice or the powder to a drachm.

" Because there is no account of the seeds of this, or
whether it has any or no, I think this a more proper name
for it than that of Stratiotes.

" Pistia Stratiotes. Linn. Spec. pi. 1365.
" (Not found in Madeira.)

" Hemionitis Asari folio, Cat. pi. Jam., p. 14.

"The root of this most elegant plant was made up of
many brown fibrils, which, towards the surface of the earth,
were covered with a ferruginebus down, the stalks were
many from the same root, blackish, round, and shining,
about seven inches high, on the top of which was a round
leaf, exactly like that of Asarum, about two inches diameter,
having veins running from the top of the foot-stalk as from

140 SIB HANS SLOANES LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

a common centre through the leaf, which was of the con-
sistence of Hemionitis, or Lingua cervis. Round the
edges, on the under-side, lay the seed in a welt, being
ferrugineous, as other ferns, and making the leaf appear as
if it were indented.

"Adiantum Reniforme. Linn. Sp. pi. 1556.
" Lonchitis aspera Marantkcs, J. B. Raii Hist., p. 139.

" (Nothochlaena Marantae ? R, Br.)

" Adiantum ramosum majus, foliis seu pinnulis tenuibus longis
profunde laciaiatis obtusis. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 22.

" This rises to be a foot and a half, or two feet high, hav-
ing a reddish pale brown stalk, cornered in the inside, and
round on the other, at nine inches or a foot distance from
the ground branched ; those branches undermost, or next
the root, being the largest, about a foot long, having their
twigs, on which stand the PinnulcB, or leaves alternatively,
they being long, thin, pale green coloured, and divided into
long, blunt, narrow sections, or incisures, by several very
deep Lacinia?.

" Trichomanes Canariense. Linn. Sp. pi. 1562. (?)
" (Adiantum Capellis Veneris? Linn.)

" Gramen paniceum spica simplici Icevi. Bail Hist.

"Panicum Grlaucum. Linn. Sp. pi. 83.
" (Setaria Glauca. Beauv.)

" Gramen dactylon Siculum multiplici panicula spicis ah eodem
exortu genuinis. Raii Hist., -p. 1271.

" Andropogon hirtum. Linn. Sp. pi. 1482.

': Gramen tremulum maximum, C. B. Raii Hist., p 1274.
" Briza Maxima. Linn. Sp. pi. 103.

appendix.] SIB HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PIANTS. 141

" Gramen miliaceum angustifolium altum locustis minimis.
Cat. pi. Jam., p. 35.

" This had a small, hard, green stalk, or cidmus, fre-
quently jointed, at each joint, having three or four inches
long narrow grassy leaves, and rising to be four or five
feet high, the panicle was about six inches long. The
little twigs or strings going out of the upper part of the
culmus, and to which the locust® were fastened were about
two inches, taking their beginning from the same part of
the stalk, standing round about like so many rays from
the centre, at about an inch distance more or less from one
another after the manner of oats. The locust® were not
scaly, but standing singly by one another, being many and
small, having within clay-coloured glum® or chaff, one
shining, roundish, small seed, like that of millet.

" Panicum junceum. M. Scr.
" (Panicum repens. Linn.)

" Gramen avenaceum, panicula minus sparsa, citja siyigula
grana, tres arista's longissimas habent. Cat. pi. Jam.,
p. 35.

" This grass had a panicle of about six inches long, not
very sparse ; when ripe, of a reddish yellow colour. The
spikes were placed alternately at long intervals, and had set
on them by small foot-stalks, several very long grains, each
of which had on their uppermost end three very long arista;,
by which it may be sufficiently distinguished. The glum®
were of the same colour as the panicle, and not awned.
The spikes were not many in number.

" Aristida adscensionis. Linn. Sp. pi. 121.
" (Potius, Aristida Coerulescens. Desf.)

143 SIR HANS SL0ANES LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

" Urtica, caule lignoso,foliis tenuioribus atrovirentibus. Cat.
pi. Jam., p. 38.

" This had an upright, cornered, woody stem, solid, and
having a fungous pith, being covered with a smooth,
reddish brown bark, rising two or three feet high, having
joints and branches set opposite to one another, and on
which stand, likewise opposite to one another, at the joints
the leaves on three-quarters of an inch long foot-stalks.
They are very thick set with burning small prickles, being
an inch long, and three-quarters broad at round base where
broadest, from whence they decrease to their ends, being
very much cut in, on the edges thin, and of a dark green
colour.

" Urtica urens var. Linn. Sp. pi. 1396.
" (Potius, Urtica elevata. Lowe.)

" Persicaria procumbens longissima, angustifolia,non maculosa,
spica longioH, laxiori, et graciliori. Cat.pl. Jam., p. 48.

" The root of this plant has several protuberances here
and there, as also great numbers of reddish brown strings
or filaments scattered up and down in the muddy ground.
The stalks are spread round, trailing on the surface of the
earth for about four feet in length. They are round,
reddish, smooth, jointed at every inch's interval, having a
swelling at every joint, and near the top one leaf exactly
like that of the ordinary Hgdropiper, only much narrower
and longer. The flowers stand on foot stalks, ex alisfol.,
and on the top of the branches, like those of the ordinary
Arsmart, only they are not so closely put together, but
more lax and slender ; and to them follows in a green husk
a small, shining, black seed, angular, and having two

atpendix.] SIR HANS SLOANE S LIST OF PLANTS. 143

prickly ends, very like the Persicaria pusilla repens. Ger.
emac, only the stalks much longer.

" It grows in the Island of Madeira in a river's bank half
a mile beyond the town of Funchal towards the mountain.

" Polygonum Polincoba. H. Ind. Occ.

"(Polygonum Hydropiper, Linn., is not uncommon in Ma-
deira, but Polygonum Minus, to which this description seems
to point, does not occur there now.)

" Blitum vulgare minus surrectum. Munt.pl. Cult., p. 291.
" Found in the Island of Madeira, near Funchal, and dif-
fering in nothing from the ordinary wild, small, white
Blite, only it is more erect.

"Amaranthus Blituin. Linn. Sp. pi. 1405.

"Psyllium majus erectum, C. B., J. B. RaiiHist., p. 881.
" (Eclipta Erecta. Linn.)

" Convolvulus altliea foliis Clus., rar. pi. Hist., lib. iv. p. 49.
" I found this plentifully near Funchal. It is good to
cure wounds, Clus.

" (Convolvulus Althseoides. Linn.)

" Salvia major, folio glauco, serrato. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 64.
'• This hath square, whitish, glaucous stalks, rising two or
three feet high, having two leaves standing opposite to one-
another, on inch foot-stalks, being two inches long, and
one broad near the base where broadest, being cut in very
deep on the edges, of a dirty green colour on the upper
side, and very white underneath, having one middle, and
several transverse ribs.

" It grew near Funchal, where I gathered it without
flowers or seed, so that I am not able to determine its

144 SIR HANS SL0ANES LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

family. Perhaps it may be a Marrubiuni nigrum, or of
some other kind.

" (Teucrium Betonicum. Linn.)

" Horminum luteuni glutinosum, C. B. Ran His£.,p. 547.
Colus Joris Ger., p. 769.

"Salvia Glutinosa. Linn. Sp. pi. 37.
" (Not at present existing in Madeira.)

" Origanum spicis latioribus. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 65.

" I found this wild in Madeira Island. It has very broad
spikes, in which it seems to differ chiefly from Origanum

vulgare.

" (Origanum Virens. Hoffin.)

" Hedera terrestris. Casalp., p. 453.

" I found this near the town of Funchal. They use
to boil it in their flesh broths in Germany. Cord.

" Glecoma Hederacea. Linn. Sp. pi. 807.
" (Does not exist in Madeira now, possibly Sibthorpia Pere-
grina. Linn.)

" Trifolium bituminosum seu trifolium casruleum aut violaceum
bitumen redolens. Moris. Hist.pl., Part ii., p. 136.

" I found it in the Island of Madeira. The seed from
Italy, in Germany, produces one with smell and taste ; but
the seed of the German sown has neither taste nor smell,
C. B.

" Psoralea Bituminosa. Linn. Sp. pi. 1074.

" Fumaria quinta seu lutea, C. B. Pin., p. 143.
" Genistella tinctoria Ger., p. 1316.

" Genista Tinctoria. Linn. Sp. pi. 121.
" (Not at present existing in Madeira.}

appendix.] SIR HANS SLOANES LIST OF PLANTS. 145

" Scorpioides beupleuri folio, C. B. Bali, p. 931.
" (Scorpiurus Sulcata. Linn.)

" Cicer sativum, C. B. Baii Hist., p. 917.

" Cicer arietinum. Linn. Sp. pi. 1040.

" Tithymalus perennis et procerior lini folio acuto. Cat. pi.
Jam., p. 82.

" This seemed to differ in nothing from the Tithymalus
annuns lini folio acuto Magnol. in Botan. Monsp. but in
this, that the stalks were higher and woody.
" Euphorbia segetalis. Linn. Sp. pi. 657.

" Plantago quinquenervia cum globulis albis pilosis, J. B.
Tom. iii., lib. xxxi., p. 504.

" (Plantago lanceolata. Linn.)

" Carijoplnjllus barbatus sylvestris annum latifolius multis cap-
sulis simul junctis donatus. Morison, Hist., pi., Part ii.,

p. 568.

" Dianthus prolifer. Linn. Sp. pi. 587.

" Lychnis hirsuta quarta,seu sylvestris lanuginosa minor, C. B
Pin., p. 306.

" Silene gallica. Linn. Sp. pi. 595. {1)

" Cistus folio oblongo, integro, glabro, subtus albido, vasculis
trigonis. Cat. pi. Jam. p. 86.

" This shrub was five or six feet high, having a solid stem,
covered with a light brown reddish smooth bark, and
towards its top being divided into many branches going-
out opposite the one to the other, having likewise leaves set
on them one against another, some being larger than
others. The largest are about an inch long, half as broad

H

146 SIR HANS SLOANE's LIST OF PLANTS.- [appendix.

in the middle where hroadest, smooth, pale, of a pale
green colour above and white underneath, with one middle
rib, and some transverse nerves, going from it to the sides
of the leaf, appearing on its upper side. It has no foot
stalk, but out of one of the alee of the leaves, towards the
top, rise many brown stalks supporting flowers, which are
whitish, with many stamina, surrounded by a pentaphyllous
calix, after which come heads of the same colour, as big as
a small pea, being roundish, though acuminated at top,
made up of three loculaments or cells, having each on his top
an apex. In each of these heads lies great quantities of
small, oblong, ash-coloured seed. The head bruised smells
very sweet.

" Hypericum erectum. M. Scr.

" Geranium Althece folio, C.B. Bali Hist., p. 1055.
"Geranium Malacoides. Linn. Sp. pi. 952. (!)

" Apocynnm fruticosum, folio oblongo, acuminato, floribus
racemosis. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 89.

" This had woody stalks round, and of the bigness of
hen's quills, covered with a reddish brown bark, the wood
being solid and white, having leaves going out at about an
inch distance, always opposite to one another. They stand
on half a quarter of an inch foot-stalks, are two inches
long, and about three-quarters of an inch broad, near the
middle, towards the base where broadest, and whence they
decrease, ending in a point which is not very sharp. There
is one middle rib, and several transverse ones running
through the leaf, which is undivided, smooth, of a yellowish,
pleasant green colour. Ex alis foliorum, towards the tops
come three or four inch long petioli, which are branched,
and sustain several very small flowers.

appendix.] SIR HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PLANTS. 147

" Trifolium acetosum corniculatum luteum minus repens et
etiam procumbens. Moris. Hist.pl., p. 183.
" It takes out spots of linen. Cam.

" Oxalis corniculata. Linn. Sp. pi. 623.

" Foeniculum vulgare. Ger. emac, p. 1032.

" I found this in the Madeira Island very plentifully.

" Anethum Foeniculum. Linn. Sp. pi. 377.
" (Rectius, Foeniculum Peperitum. Dc.)

" Bupleuron primum sive folio rigido, C. B. Pin., p. 278.
" It is a sallet herb. Ccesalp.

" Bupleurum tertium minimum. Col. Min. Cogn. Stirp., pp.
85, and 247.

" Heliotropium majus, Gesn. Hort. Germ., f. 261.

" I found a plant, something higher than the Heliotro-
pium majus is, in Madeira Island, but I take it, notwith-
standing, to be the same, only it varied in stature from the
soil, being in everything else the same.

" Heliotropium Europaeum. Linn. Sp. pi. 187.

" Solarium nonum seu fructisosum bacciferum, C. B. Pin.,
p. 166.

" Solanum Pseudo-capsicum. Linn. Sp. pi. 263.

"Asparagus maritimus crassiore folio, C. B. Pin., p. 490.
" Clusius seems to make this a distinct plant from the
prat. a. mark., saying they were differing, though in the

same place.

" (Asparagus Scoparius 1 Lowe.)

" Hieracium stellatum., J. B. Tom. ii., lib. xxiv., p. 1014.

" Hieracium fruticosum foliis tenuissime coronopi modo divisis.
Cat. pi. Jam., p. 123.

" From one single, three, or four inches long, crooked,

h 2

148 SIR HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

root, rises a woody, solid, crooked, round, light brown
stalk, three feet high, having several small branches to-
wards the top, and now and then tufts of leaves, some
bigger, others smaller, but all of them divided or lacinated
very minutely, almost into hairs, like the leaves of Coro-
nopus Ruellil or Sophia Chirurgorum. The flowers are
several at top, standing within a calix made up of a great
many small, long, and narrow leaves, which are reflected
when the seed ripens, leaving many small black pappous
seeds to be carried away with the wind.

" It grew on the stony hills to the eastward of the town
of Funchal.

" (Tolpis Pectinata. Lowe.)

" Ahjpum, sive herba terribilis procerior,cortice cinereo scabro,
folio acuminatolongiore. Cat.pl. Jam., p. 124.

" This rose much higher than the Herba terribilis nar-
bonensum, having a hard white wood, with a large pith, a
scabrous or unequal light brown or gray bark ; the branches
toward their ends were very thick set with leaves, with-
out any order. They were two inches long, and a third
part of an inch broad where broadest, being narrow at
the beginning, increasing to the middle, and ending in
a point, equal at the edges, with one middle rib, and several
transverse ones, of a yellowish green colour. Towards the
tops of the twigs, ex alisfol., come the flowers, being several
heads, round or spherical, made up of many very small blue
flowers, with their stamina set round very close together in
the same head, to which follows a very small gray pappous
seed, all over downy.

" (Globularia Salicina. Linn.)

appendix.] SIR HANS SLOANE'S LIST OF PLANTS. 149

"Helichrysum secundum seu Helichryso sylvestri flore oblongo
similis, C.B. Pin., p. 265. Prod., p. 123.
" It is good in decoctions for the cliolic. Clus.

" Conyza Saxatilis. Linn. Sp. pi. 1206. (?)

" Gnaphalium ad Stcechadis citrinam accedens, J. B. Tom. hi.,
lib. xxvi., p. 160.

" I found this both ramose and not ramose.

" Gnaphalium luteo Album. Linn. Sp. pi. 1196. (?)

" Chrysanthemum aquaticum cannabinum, folio tripartite di
viso. Herm. cat.pl., p. 146.

" (Bidens leucantha. Willd.)

" Erica folio coridis sexta, seu major scoparia foliis deciduis,
C. B. Pin., p. 485.

" (Brica Scoparia ? Linn.)

" Genista non spinosa prima, seu angulosa et scoparia, C. B.
Pin., p. 395.

" Common broom. The flowers are eat in sallets, al-
though two ounces of the seed decocted are a vomit, Mes.,
but not more than radishes, &c, Lob. The water of the
flowers, or half a drachm of the seed beaten, are good
against the stone, Lon.

" Spartium Scoparium. Linn. Sp. pi. 996.

" Myrtus septima, seu syhestris foliis acutissimis, C. B. Pin.,
p. 469.

" I found this very plentifully growing wild in the hedges
by the waysides in the Island of Madeira. This is used
for currying leather, as Rhus or Lentisk, Cccsalp. The ripe

150 SIR HANS SLOANE's LIST OF PLANTS. [appendix.

berries are used for sauce, Math., before pepper was found,
as Pliny tells us ; the fruit of this was made use of in its
place.

" Myrtus communis lusitanica. Linn. Sp. pi. 664.

" Lycium folio oblongo, serrato acuminato spinis minoribus ar-
matum. Cat. pi. Jam., p. 171.

" This seemed to differ very little from the common
Lycium, only the leaves were longer, serrated, and pointed,
and the pi'ickles were not so large.

" Palma prunifera foliis yucca, fructu in racemis congestis
cerasi formi, duro, cinereo, pisi magnitudine, cujus lachryma
sanguis draconis est dicta. Comm. cat. Amst., p. 260.

" I found this in the Island of Madeira, in the hedges,
very plentifully, though not very large. It is found in the
islands Socotora, Borneo, Canaries, Madagascar, and (Aluise
de Cadamosto ap. Piam., pr. vol. p. 105) at Porto Santo,
where they cut the trees at the foot, and next year find the
gum, which they desiccate in water by boiling and purging.
The fruit is yellow, and ripe in March, and good to eat.

" The tree is pierced near the bottom, and so yields the
gum. The fruit cools and alters, and is proper in fevers.
Cinaber du Dioscorid. Thevet.

" It is adulterated with Rubrica and Colophony. Casalp.

" Lobels leaf is the Spatha, in all likelihood. Lugd.

" The gum is used by goldsmiths for a foile and enamel,
and by glaziers for colouring glass. Park.

"It is used to strengthen the gums and teeth, in
bloody excretions, fluxes, &c. Joust.

" Dracaena Draco. Linn. Syst. Nat. 246.

APPENDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

151

" Opuntia Maxima, foliis majoribus crassioribus et atrovirenti-
bus, spinis minoribus et paucioribus obsitis. Cat.pl. Jam.,
p. 195.

" This Indian fig was in every part exactly the same with
the common, only each leaf was broader, thicker, of a darker
green colour, and not so prickly, having a very few white
short prickles, and sometimes only one, coming out at a
hole very like that kind on which comes the cochineal, only
it is not quite so free of prickles as that.

" It grows in Madeira and in the Canaries.
" (Opuntia Tuna. Linn.)"

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS GROWING IN THE GARDENS OF
THE PALMEIEA AND THE DEANERY.

As a fair specimen of perennial plants cultivated in a
Madeira garden, may be taken the following list, arranged
according to the " Natural System of Botany, by John Lind-
ley, 1836," and furnished me by the kindness of C. Bewicke,
Esq., being the produce of the garden of the Quinta da
Palmeira. To these the names of a few other plants that
are found in the garden of the Deanery have been added
by C. Conybeare, Esq.

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera. Species.

Papaverace^;.
Chryseis Californica

Maqnoliacejb.

Magnolia grandiflora
purpurea

Magnolia

152

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[APPENDIX.

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera.
Magnolia

Species,
fuscata
pumila
m tulipifera

Dwarf magnolia
Tulip tree

Liriodendr

Tulipeiro

Anonace^:.

Anona

tripetala
Araliacej.

Custard apple

Annona

Hedera

helix

Vitace^:.

Ivy

Hera

Vitis

vinifera
Several varieties.

PlTTOSPORACEJE.

Vine

Yinha

Pittosporum undulatum

Mocaim

Onagrace^;.

Fuchsia

coccinea
corynibiflora
serratifolia
fulgens
globosa
arborescens
And varieties.

Mimo

(Enothera.

Mvrtace^e.

Eucalyptus
Melaleuca

robusta

pulverulenta

ericifolia
os speciosa
— lanceolata

pomiferum

catleianum

communis (native)

jambos

Micheli
granatum

TJrze de pluma
Martinet

Metrosider

Bottle brush

Guava

Myrtle
Rose apple

Petanga
Pomegranate

Psidium

Gruaveiro

Myrtus
Eugenia

Eugenia
Punica

Murta

Jambeiro das In-
dias

Komeira

Philadelphace.£.

Philadelph

is grandiflorus
Cocurbitace.e.

Syringa

Sechium

edule

Tchu-tchu

Pepinella

APPEXDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

153

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera

Species.
Cactace^;.

Echinocactus eyriesii

Cereus

speciosissimus

triangularis

flaselliformis

Rabo de Macaca

serpentinus

Epiphyllum truncatum
Opuntia tuna

mikrodasis

Pereskia aculeata

Tabaiba

FlCOIDE^.

Mesembryanthe- deltoideum

Amores de ra-

mum

aureum

pazes

speciosum
tenuifolium

Begoniace>e.

Begonia

nitida

semperflorens

dregii

CRUCIFER.E.

Cheiranthus

Wall-flower

Goiveiro

Capparidace^e.

Cleome

spinosa

Violace.e.

la

Viola

Madeirensis
Passiflorace>e.

Violet

Violetta

Pas3iflora

coerulea

edulis

racemosa

Passion-flower

Martyrio
Maracuja

Scarlet passion-
flower

Bixace.e.

Bixa

orellana
Guttifer^:.

Arnotta

Mammea

Africana

Mammee tree

Mamoeira

H 3

154

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[appendix.

ORDERS.

Genera. Species.

Ternstromace-e.

Camellia

Acer

Sapindus

(Esculus

Linum

Cistus

Bombax

Malva
Hibiscus

Abutilon
Althaea

Cuphea

Japonica
Varieties.

Aceraoe^!.

pseudo platanus
rubrum

Sapindace^e.
saponaria

.ZESCULACE.E.

pavia

LlNACHLE.

trigynum

ClSTACKS!.

ladaniferus

Sterculiacej;.

ceiba
erianthos

Malvace.e.

rosa sinensis

mutabilis

syriacus

heterophyllus

striatum

rosea

I/YTHRACE.E.

miniata

platvcentra

strigulosa

Lagerstraemia indica

MeLIACRS:.

Melia azedarach

English
Names.

Sycamore

Maple

Soap-berry

Horse-chestnut

Flax

Gum sistus

Silk cotton tree
Woolly flowered
ditto

Portuguese

Names.

Eosa de Japao

Saboeira

Algodao do mato

Changeable rose

Hollyhock

Bead tree

Cardeal singela
Metamorphose

Malvaeisco

Sycomoro bas-
tardo

APPENDIX.

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

155

ORDERS.

Citrus

Genera. Species.

AuRANTIACEiB.

aurantiu.ni

nobilis

vulgaris

RHAMNACE.E.

latifolius
africanus

EtJPHORBIACEA.

semperflorens

angustifolia

suffruticosa

splendens

bojeri

neriifolia

canariensis

pulcherrirna

communis

manihot

curcas

Rhamnus
Ceanothus

Buxus

Euphorbia

Poinsettia

Ricinus
Jatropha

Celastrace^;.
Celastrus cassinoides (native)

Silenace^;.
Dianthus chinensis

barbatus

carvophyllus

latifolius

TAMARICACEJi.

Tamarix indica

Ectacej;.

Diosma

ericoides

Melianthus

major

Geraniace^;.

Pelargonium

glutinosum
graveolens

And many varieties.

English
Names.

Orange
Mandarin orange
Seville orange

Box

Castor oil plant
Cassava

Angular - leaved
physic nut

Staff tree

Pink

Sweet William
Carnation

Tamarisk

Honey flower

Portuguese
Names.

Larangeiro
Tangerino

Rhanino

Buxo

Manhaa de Pas-
coa

Mandioca
Pinhoes do Bra-
zil

Cravina da Arra-
bida

barbella

Craveiro

Urze de Cheiro

Malva

156

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[APPENDIX.

ORDERS.

English

Names.

Portuguese

Names.

Genera.

Species.
OXALIDACE.£.

Oxalis

versicolor
Rosacea.

llosa

multiflora
banksise

Rose

Rosa de tocar

11U1 C IULCU

sinica

indica
muscosa
And varieties.

Rosa de China

Rosa de Musgo

Fragaria

3 varieties

Strawberry

Morango

Suborder, Pome.e.

Eriobotrya.

japonica

Loquat

Nesperas de Ja-

Cydonia

vulgaris

Quince

pao
Marmuleiro

Pyrus

communis
japonica

Pear

Pereiro

Suborder, Amtgdale^e.

Amygdalus

communis

Almond

Amendoeira

Prunus

persica
laurocerasus

Leguminos-e.

Peach

Laurel (so called)

Pecegueiro
Loirocerejo

(Tribe, Papilionaceae.)

Edwardsia

Robinia

pseud-acacia

Common acacia

Acacia bastarda

Coronilla

glauca

Kenned ya

monophylla

Wisteria

X UUR i l M lit

sinensis

Phaseolus

caracalla
poianthus

Caracoleiro

Erythrina

Coral tree

velutina

cristagalli

(•QTTl'Q

Arvore de Coral

Cape coral tree

(Tribe, Caesalpinise.)

Gleditschia

triacanthos

Honey locust
tree

Csesalpinia
Poinciana

Sappan
pulcherrima

Flower fence

APPEXDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIV,

\.TED PLANTS.

107

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera.
Cassia
Cercis
Ceratonia

Species,
laevigata
siliquastrum
siliqua

Judas tree
Carob tree

Olaya

Alfaroba

(Tribe, Mimosese.)

Acacia

dealbata

verticillata

farnesiana

leucocephala

lophantha

plumosa

Aroma

Hydrangea
Saxifraga

Saxifragace^:.

hortensis
sarmentosa

Novellos

Rochea
Crassula

Crassdlace^e.

falcata

lactea

arborescens
m calycinum

coccinea

orbiculata
lm glutinosum (native)

Flor de Misanga

House leek

Bryophylli
Cotyledon

Sempervivi

Ensayao

Anacardiace^;.

Rhus

Mangifera

Pistacia

indica
terebinthus

Cdpulifer^e.

Sumach
Mango

Cyprus turpen-
tine tree

Sumagre
Mangueira

Castanea
Quercus

vesca (native)

ilex

robur

pedunculata

coccinea

suber

sylvatica

Chestnut
Oak

Cork tree
Beech

Castanheiro
Carvalho

Fagus

TJrticacb.

Morus
Ficus

nigra
carica

stipulata

comosa

elastica

Mulberry
Fig

Caoutchouc

Amoreira
Figueira

158

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[appendix.

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera

Species.
UlMACE^E.

Celtis

australis

PlPERACEiE.

Nettle tree

Peperonica insequalifolia

SALICACEiE.

Salix
Populus

Babylonica
dilatata

Platanaoe^;.

Weeping willow
Poplar

Choradeira
Alemo

Platanus

orientalis
occidentalis

Latjrace^;.

Plane

Platano

Oreodaphri

e foetens (native)
indica (native)
gratissima
barbusano (native)
canariensis (native)
camphora

Til

Persea

Vinhatico

Laurus

Avocado pear

Barbusano

Louro

Camphor tree

Camphoreiro

PHYTOLACCACE.E.

Phytolacca decandra

Virginian poke

Nyctaginace^.

Mirabilis

jalapa

Ericaceje.

Marvel of Peru

Boninas

Erica

Arbutus

Azalea

unedo
indica
pontica

Heath
Strawberry tree

Urze da Serra

Medronheiro

Azalia

Sapotace^e.

Chrysophyllum monopyrenum

Star apple

Lobeliace^e.

Lobelia

cardinalis
pubescens

CONVOLYULACE^!.

Ipomea

tuberosa

Yellow cable
plant

APPENDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

159

ORDERS.

Genera. Species.

CA1IPANULACE.E.

Campanula pyramidalis

Trachelium cceruleum

Adenophora suaveolens

ClNCHONACE^E.

Gardenia radicans

florida

Coffea arabica

Caprifoliace^:.
Weigelia rosea

Caprifolium etruscum

confusum

Viburnum tinus

Composite.

Dahlia
Gaillardia
Humea
Cineraria

Sonchus

snperflua

picta

elegans

amelloides

maritima

pinnatus (native)

Kleinia neriifolia

GLOBULARIACE.E.

Globularia longifolia (native)

Plumbaginace^:.
Plumbago capensis

Ehretace^;.
Heliotropium peruvianum

BORAGINACE^I.

Echium

Salvia

simplex
nervosum (native)

Labiate.
patens
splendens
mexicana
involucrata
officinalis

English

Names.

Bell flower
Throatwort

Cape Jasmine
Coffee

Honeysuckle
Laurestinus

Sowtbistle

Portuguese

Names.

Caffeiro

Madre de sylva
Louro regio

Mai me quer de
rocha

Malforado

Leadwort

Heliotrope

Pride of Madeira

Balsama

Penacho azul da
rocha

Salva

Camarao

1G0

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[appendix.

ORDERS.

Genera.
Leonotis
Mentha

Duranta

Lantana
Lippia

Species,
leonurus

Verbenace.e.
ellisia

microphylla
aculeata
citriodora

Clerodendron
Verbena

fragrans
viscosum
melindrus

Bignoniace.e.
Bignonia radicans

Catalpa

stans
venusta
capensis
syringifolia

English

Names.

Mint

Verbena

Verbena

Crescentia

cucurbitina

ACANTHACE.E.

Round - fruited
Calabash

Acanthus

mollis
adhatoda
a pulchellum

Justicia
Eranthemur

Gesnera ce^;.

Gesnera
Gloxinia
Achimenes

zebrina
speciosa
pulchella
longiflora

SCROPHULARIACE^:.

Calceolaria
Maurandya

integrifolia
barclayana
rosea superba
semperflorens
im scandens
— hendersoni
juncea

Lophosperni

Russellia
Mimulus

Diplacus

Penstemon

Paulownia

puniceus
imperialis

Portuguese-
Names.

Hortelaa

Pexegueiro In-
gles

Guarnicao de
jardim

Cuja

Gigante

APPENDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

161

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera.
Alonsoa

Species,
urticaefolia

Veronica
Brunsfelsia

speciosa
americana

Solanace.e.

Capsicum
Solandra
Datura
Brugmansia

Petunia

frutescens

grandiflora

fastuosa

suaveolens

sanguinea

nyataginiflora

phenicia

pseudo capsicum

Pimenteiro

Trombetas

Solanum

Cestrum

Cestrace.e.

vespertinum

Bellas noites

Nerium

APOCYNACE.E.

oleander

(white variety)

rosea
major
rubra

Oleander
Periwinkle

Sevandilha

Vinca

Congossa

Plumieria

A.SCLEPIADACE.E.

Stapelia
Hoy a
Asclepias

carnosa
curassavica

Flor de cera

Olea

Ligustrum
Fraxinus

Oleace^;.
Europea
fragrans

vulgaris
excelsior

Olive
Sweet olive

Privet

Ash

Oliveira
Magnolia de

cheiro
Alfeneiro
Freixo

Jasminum

Jasminace.£.

odoratissimum (na-
tive)
grandiflorum

Jasmine

Jasmin

Cyendace.e.

Cycas

revoluta
Conifers.

Pinus

pinea

Stone pine

Pinheiro manso

162

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[appendix.

ORDERS.

English
Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera.
Pinus

Larix

Species,
pinaster
canadensis
cedrus
distichum

sempervirens

horiz

lusitanica
oxycedrus (n<
occidentals
braziliensis

Taxace.£.

adiantifolia

ZlNGIBERACE.£.

gardnerianum

angustifolium

nutans

officinale

leucorhiza

Marantace^e.

zebrina
indica
speciosa
lutea

Musace.£.

ovata

angusta

paradisaica

sapientum

coccinea

cavendishii

LMARYLLIDACE.E.

gigantea
americana

stricta
mtalis

itive)

iegata
itive)

Canary pine

Cedro

Taxodium

Cupressus

Deciduous cy-
press
Cypress

Cypreste

Juniperus

Thuja

Araucaria

Salisburia

Hedychium

Alpinia

Zingiber

Curcuma

Calathea
Canna

Cedro da Serra

Garland flower

Eoca de Venus

Ginger

East India arrow
root

Indian shot

Banana

Aloe

Ginga
Batatinha

Cana de India

Strelitzia

Musa

1

Furcrsea
Agave

Bananeira
Piteira

Narcissus

jonquilla
orientalis
odorus

formosissima
belladonna (n;

Pancratium
Amaryllis

Seraphim
Belladonna

APPENDIX.]

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

163

ORDERS.

Genera.

Amaryllis

Nerine

Crinum

Gladiolus

Tritonia

Tigridia
Ferraria
Iris

Bromelia

Phcenix
Cocos

Lilium

Scilla

Hemerocallis
Agapanthus

Allium
Kuscus
Dracaena

Phormium
Yucca

Species,
regina?
longifolia
sarniensis
undulata
amabile

Iridace.£.
segetum
psittacinus
Herbert's hybrids,

various
crocata
longiflora
fenestrata
pavonia
undulata
florentina
Xiphium
biflora

BrOMELIACE^.

ananas

Palmace.e.

dactylifera
nucifera

Liliace.e.

lancifolium
bulbiferum
tigrinum
candidum
hyacinthoides (na-
tive)
peruviana
fulva
umbellatus

moly

androgynus (native)

draco (native)

ferrea

australis

tenax

filamentosa

aloifolia

English

Names.

Mexican lily
Guernsey lily

Tiger flower

Lirio

Pine apple

Date palm
Cocoa nut

Portuguese

Names.

Rachael

Flor d'um dia
Flor de abelha

Ananaz

Palmeira

Lirio

Sucena
Alvarraa

do Peru

Dragon tree
New Zealand flax

Coroa de Hen-
rique

Allegra campo
Dragoeiro

L64

LIST OF CULTIVATED PLANTS.

[appendix

ORDERS.

English

Names.

Portuguese
Names.

Genera.
Aloe

Species,
verrucosa
arborescens
plicatilis
saponaria
humilis

C0MHELINACE>£.

a virginica

— discolor

— zebrina

Shilace.s:.
aspera

Pandanace^;.

odoratissimus

Arace^e.

ethiopica
seguinum

dracunculus (native)
colocasia

Graminace^:.

donax

versicolor

arundinacea
officinarum

Tradescant

Smilax

Lagacao
Jarros

Pandanus
Calla

Screw pine

Caladium
Arum

Dumb cane

Dracunculo

Yam (so called)

Cane

Bamboo
Sugar-cane

Inhame
Cana

Arundo

Bambusa
Saccharum

Cana de Brazil
Cana d'assucar.

N.B. The Portuguese names are generally those used in the island of
Madeira, with a few added from the " Compendio de Botanica " of Brotero.

APPEXDIX.J

BIRDS THAT BEEED IN MADEIRA.

165

II.

LIST OF BIRDS THAT BREED IN MADEIRA.

Latin Name.

1. Falcotinnunculus. — Linn.

2. buteo. — Linn.

3. Strix flammea. — Linn.

4. Turdus merula. — Linn.

5. Sylvia rubecula. — Lath.
6. atricapilla. — Lath.

(Corruca Heineken. — Jard.)

7.

8.

9.
10.
11.

12.
13.
14.

15.

16.
17.

18.

19.

20.
21.
22.
23.

24.
25.

26.

27.

28.

Corruca conspicillata.—

Gould.
Regulus madeirensis. —

Mihi.
Motacilla boarula. — Linn
Anthuspratensis. — Bechst
Fringilla butyracea. —

Linn.
■ • carduelis. — Linn.

petronia. — Linn.

tintillon.— Webb

and Berthelot

cannabina. —

Linn.
Cypselus unicolor. — Jard.
murarius. —

Temm.
Columba trocaz Hein.

palumbus. —

jinn.

livia. — Briss.

Perdix rubra. — -Briss.

coturnix Lath.

Scolopax rusticola. —

Linn.
Sterna hirundo.— Linn.
Larus argentatus. —

Brunn.

Procellaria
Linn.

Temm.

Gmel.

puffinus. —

aiiglorum. —

obscura. —

English Name.

Kestrel

Buzzard

Barn owl

Bliickbird

Redbreast

Black-cap warbler

Variety of the former

Spectacle warbler

Gray wagtail
Meadow pipet
Green or wild canary

Goldfinch

Ring sparrow

Buff-breasted Chaf-
finch

Greater redpole or
linnet

Lesser swift

Common swift

Long-toed wood pi-
geon
Ringdove

Rock pigeon
Red-legged partridge
Quail
Woodcock

Tern
Herring gull

Cinereous shearwater

Manks shearwater

Dusky petrel

Portuguese Name.

Francelho
Manta
Coruja
Merlo-preto
Papinho
Tinto-Negro
Tinto-Negro
pello

de Ca-

Abibe

Lavandeira amarella
Corre de Caminho
Canario

Pinta Silva

Pardio

Tentilhao

Tinto roxo

Andorinha da Serra
do Mar

Trocaz

Pombo

Pombinho
Perdiz
Cordonez
Gallinhola

Garajao

Gaio, Guivata (after

third aut. moult)
Cagarra

Boeiro

Pintainho

1G6

LIST OF STRAGGLERS IN MADEIRA.

[APPENDIX.

Latin Name. *

English Name.

Portuguese Name.

29. Thalassidroma anginho. —

Hein.
Thalassidroma Bulwerii. —
Jard.

30. Thalassidroma castro. —

Angel petrel
Bulwer's petrel

Anginho
Koque de Castro

Mihi.

LIST OF STRAGGLERS IN MADEIRA.

Latin Name.

31. Cathartes percnopterus. —

Temm.

32. Falco nisus. — Linn.

33. Corvus corax. — Linn.
34. corone. — Linn.

35. Oriolus gabula. — Linn.

36. Stnrmis vulgaris. — Linn.

37. Turdus iliacus. — Linn.

38. musicus. — Linn.

39. Sylvia hortensis. — Lath.

40. Troglodytes Europseus. — Selb.

41. Motacilla alba. — Linn.

42. Alanda arvensis. — Linn.

43. Fringilla chloris. — Linn.
44. domestica. — Linn.

45. Cuculus canorus. — Linn.

46. Musaphaga Africana. — Temm.

47. Upupa epops. — Linn.

48. Merops apiaster. — Linn.

49. Alcedo ispida. — Linn.

50. Hirundo urbica. — Linn.
51. rustica. — Linn.

52. riparia. — Linn.

53. Caprimulgus Europaeus. — Linn.

54. Columba aenas. — Linn.
55. turtur. — Linn.

56. (Edicnemus crepitans. — Temm.

57. Calidris arenaria. — 111.

58. Vanellus cristatus. — Meyer

59. Charadrius hiaticula. — Linn.

English Name.

Authority*.

Egyptian vulture

* * *

Sparrow hawk
Raven

* * *

* * *

Carrion crow

Mr. Lowe

Golden oriole

* * *

Common starling

* * *

Redwing

Mr. Lowe

Common thrush

Mr. Penfold

Greater pettychaps
Common wren

Mr. Penfold
Mr. Lowe

Pied wagtail

* * *

Skvlark

Mr. Lowe

Greenfinch or grosbeak
Common sparrow
Cuckow

* * *
Mr. Penfold

* * *

African bee-eater

Mr. Penfold

Hoopoe
Bee-eater

* * #
Mr. Lowe

Kingfisher

Mr. Lowe

House martin

* * *

Chimney swallow

* * *

Bank martin

Doubtful

European goatsucker
Stock dove

Mr. Hinton
Mr. Lowe

Turtle dove

# * *

Thick-knee

Mr. Lowe

Sanderling

Mr. Lowe

Crested lapwing
Ringed plover

* * #
Mr. Lowe

* The stars refer to the Author's own observations.

APPENDIX.]

LIST OF STRAGGLERS IN MADEIRA.

167

Latin Name.

60. Charadrius pluvialis. — Linn.

61. Strepsilus interpres. — Leach

62. Ciconia nigra. — Temm.

63. Ardea cinerea. — Lath.

64. russata. — Wagler

65. purpurea. — Linn.

66. minuta. — Linn.

67. stellaris. — Linn.

68. nycticorax. — Linn.

69. Limosa melanura. — Leislor

70. Numenius arquata. — Lath.

71. phaeopus. — Temm.

72. Tringa pugnax. — Linn.

73. subarquata. — Temm.

74. variabilis. — Meyer

75. cinerea. — Temm.

76. Totanus hypoleucos. — Temm.
77. glottis. — Bechst.

78. Scolopax gallinago. — Linn.

79. major. — Temm.

80. Crex Baillonii. — Temm.

81. ■ — — pratensis. — Selb.

82. Gallinula chloropus. — Lath.

83. Fulica atra. — Linn.

84. Anser segetum. — Steph.

85. Marecea Penelope. — Selb.

86. Anas crecca.— Linn.

87. boschas. — Linn.

88. Sterna nigra. — Linn.
89. Dougalli.— Mont.

90. Larus tridactylus. — Lath.

91. Lestris cataractes. — Temm.

92. Colvmbus glacialis. — Linn.

93. Sula. alba.— Temm.

94. ThalassidromaLeachii. — Temm.
95. pelagica. — Linn.

English Name.

Authority.

Golden plover

Mr. Hewitson

Turnstone

Mr. Lowe

Black stork

Mr. Lowe

Common heron

* * *

Buff-backed heron

* * *

Purple heron

* * *

Little heron, or bittern

* * *

Common bittern

Mr. Lowe

Night heron

* * *

Black-tailed godwit

* * *

Common curlew

Mr. Hinton

Whimbrel

Mr. Lowe

Ruff

* * *

Pigmy curlew

Mr. Lowe

Dunlin

* * *

Knot

Mr. Lowe

Sandpiper

* * *

Greenshank

* * *

Common snipe

Mr. Hinton

Great or solitary snipe

* * *

Baillon's crake

* * *

Landrail, or corn crake

Mr. Lowe

Gallinule, or water hen

* * *

Coot

* * *

Bean goose

# * *

Wigeon

Mr. Penfold

Teal

* * *

Mallard, or common duck

Mr. Penfold

Black tern

Mr. Lowe

Roseate tern

SirW.Jardine

Kittiwake

* * *

oKua
Northern diver

* * *

* * *

Gannet, or solan goose

Mr. Lowe

Leach's petrel

SirW. Jardine

Stormy petrel

Doubtful

168 TABLES OF NAVIGATION. [appendix.

III.

TABLES OF NAVIGATION.
The subjoined tables of navigation, witb which I have been
favoured by Mr. Caldbeck, commander of the Madeira packet
brig " Brilliant," may prove interesting and useful to such as
contemplate a yacht voyage to Madeira.

" Some difference of opinion appearing to exist as to the
actual distance between Southampton and Funchal, I beg
to offer you the results of a few calculations I have worked
with reference to the subject. The maritime positions are
deduced from Table 8, in the ' Practice of Navigation,' by
Lieutenant Raper, R.N., and which valuable book has ob-
tained for its author the prize of the gold medal of the Royal
Geographical Society.

" The various points assumed in the route are those which
would successively be reached by a ship bound to Madeira,
with a fair wind, and in moderate weather. A probability of
a scant wind (i. e. a breeze barely permitting the vessel
to pursue her course), or the circumstance of a mountainous
north-westerly swell, rolling in from the Atlantic upon the
rugged shores of Gallicia, would of course tend to modify
this track in some measure.

" To those possessing yachts and sufficiently ambitious to
wish to vary the monotony of cruizes ' round the Bramble, '
' up Southampton Water,' and ' clown to Bern bridge,' by a
dash into the western wave, the Table of Courses and Dis-
tances may be of use; while, with regard to tbe navigation of
those seas to which the table refers, any modern book of
sailing directions is sufficiently explicit.

" Much stress having lately been laid upon the advantages
to be derived from sailing upon the orthodromic curve, com-

appendix.] GBEAT CIRCLE SAILING. 169

monly called ' Great Circle Sailing,' it is as well to re-
mark that, when sailing from Southampton to Madeira, the
rhumb line (or track cutting all meridians at the same
angle) approximates so closely to an arc of a great circle,
owing to the very trifling difference of longitude between the
positions as compared with the difference of latitude, that the
unsophisticated seaman, while shaping his course by either
Mercator's or middle latitude sailing, is, without knowing it,
sailing closely upon an arc of a great circle, and consequently
upon the most direct route. For example, the distance be-
tween the Lizard Point in England and Funchal is, by Mer-
cator's sailing, 1164 geographical miles, and by great circle
sailing 1163, only one mile shorter.

" I add, for the benefit of the amateur sailor, this case
worked out both by the usual method (Mercator's sailing) and
by great circle sailing.

" Let difference of latitudes = a, and meridional diff. of
lats. = >i ; diff. of longitude = A ; bearing, or course, = 0 ;
distance required = x.

"TO FIND THE COURSES.

n = 1389 Log . . 3-145507

Radius . 10-000000

A = 703 Log . . 2-846955

0 = S. 26-42' W. Tangent . 9-701448

"to find the distance.

Radius 10-000000

a = 1040 Log .... 3-017033
0= 26-42' Secant . . . 10-048968

* = 1164 Log 3066001

I

170 GREAT CIRCLE SAILING. appendix.

" GREAT CIRCLE SAILING.

" Let co-latitude of Lizard = 13; co-lat. of Funchal = y;
difference of longitude = A ; difference of co -latitude = u ;
bearing from Lizard = * ; bearing from Funcbal = <p ; dis-
tance required = a.

" TO FIND THE DISTANCE.

/3 = 40° 02' sine .... 9-808368

y = 57 22 sine .... 9-925384

A =11 43 log sine sq. . . 8-017789

Constant log . 6-301030

Natural number 11287 = 4-052571 log.
fi. = 17° 20' ver. sine 045412

056699 versed sine 19° 23'
X 60

Miles 1163 = x

"TO FIND THE BEARINGS.

x = 19° 23' sine 9-520990 sine 9-520990

A =11 43 sine 9-307650 sine 9-307650

y = 57 22 sine 9-925384 . /J = 40° 02' sine 9-808368

31° 01' 02"=9-712044 9-595028

180 23° 10' 37" = <p

148 58 58 = X

APPENDIX.]

TABLE OF COURSES AND DISTANCES.

171

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INDEX.

Acciaiola, Senhor Luiz, 21.

Alegria, 16.

Allotment of land, 65.

Anchorage, 2.

Anna D'Arfet, history of, 64.

Santa, 16, 19, 21, 22, 24, 50.

Antonio, S*°, 16.

da Serra, 15, 23, 24, 45.

Arriero, Pico, 12.

Assoma, Pico, 23.

Banana, 114.

Beauty, 91.

Beef, 29.

Bemfeitorias, 96, 108.

Birds that breed in Madeira, list of,

165.
described,

116.

list of stragglers in Madeira,

166.

Bishops appointed, 69.

staff of, 70.

Boa Ventura, 20.
Boarding-houses, 27.
Boating excursions, 16.
Boats, 31.

Bojador, 61, 62.
Buildings, 4.

Burial-grounds, English, 33.
Burroqueros, 8.

Cactus, 113.
Calhao, N. S. do, 44.

Calheta, 19.

Camacha, 15.

Camera de Lobos, 10, 13.

Caminho de Meio, 16, 23.

Campanario, 14.

Canary Islands, 51, 112.

Canical, 16, 24, 65.

fossil beds at, 17.

Cape Girao, 16.
Caseiro, 108.
Cathedral, 4.
Cedar, Madeiran, 113.

Censuses, 53, 54.

Cholera, 51.

Clara, Santa, 66, 71.

Clergy, salary of, 70.

of the Cathedral, 70.

Clothing, 29.

Clouds, 46.

Club, Portuguese, 34.

Cochineal, 113.

Collegiate Churches, 68.

Colonos, 108.

Columbus, 62, 63.

Commercial rooms, Portuguese, 34.

Convents, 71.

Conveyances, 7.

means of, to Madeira, 25.

Corals, 126.

Corn, cultivation of, 99.

varieties of, 100.

threshing of, 101.

grinding of, 101.

Cow, 104.

I 2

174

INDEX.

Criminals, 82.

Crops, rotation of, 100.

Crusado, 28.

Curral das Freiras, 11, 20.

short road to the, 12.

Little, 16.

Daguerreotype, 6.
Dampness, 47.
Dearths, 106.
Deluges, 44.
Dollars, 28.
Donatorios, 66, 67.
Dragon tree, 112.
Dress of the poor, 90.

Ecclesiastical affairs, 68.

Courts, 69.

Education, places of, 72.

Elections, 89.

Emigration, 52, 54, 55.

Entroza Pass, 20.

Estreito, 10.

Exports and Imports, tables of, 106.

Faial, 24, 25.

vista of, 22.

Fire on the south of Madeira, 93, 94,

111.
Fishes, 124.
Flax, 102.
Flowers, 115.
Folhado, 112.
Forests, 112.
Forja de Ferreiro, 16.
Fruits and vegetables, 114.
Funchal, why so called, 3.

■— passion for building in, 5.

roads about, 9.

mean annual temperature of,

37.

falls in, 42.

annual quantity of rain that

Funchal, constituted a city, 66.
Diocese of, 70.

Geology, 127.

Girao, expedition to, 13, 16.

Gonqalo, Fort, 16.

Gorgulho, 16.

Government, original, 66.

Governor, Civil, 79.

Governors, appointment of, 65.

Hammocks, 7.
Harmattan, 45, 46.
Henry, Prince, 61, 93.
Horses, very sure-footed, 9.

price of, 30.

hire of, 30.

food of, 31.

Hospital, 74.

Lazar, 76.

Husbandry, instruments of, 104.

Inheritance, laws of, 82.

Insects, 125.

Invasion by French privateers, 66.

Jardim, 10, 13, 17.
Jorge, Sap, 21.
Judges, 79.
Jury, 81.

Labouring classes, 107.
Lamuceiras, 23.
Levadas, 105.
L'Este, nature of, 45.

cause of, 46.

Libramento, church of the, 11.

Library, English, 34.

Lodgings, 26.

Longevity, 50.

Lourenqo, SJ.°, 15, 22, 23, 24.

Luminosity of the ocean, 12G.

Lyceum, 73.

INDEX.

175

Machico, 14, 16, 24, 64, 6Q, 69.
Machim's chapel, 14, 64.

history of, 64.

Madeira, ancient history of, 57, 58,

59, 60.

approach to, 1.

English possession of, 67.

Government of, 77.

judicial and administrative

divisions of, 78.

longitude and latitude of, 1 .

— manufactures of, 91, 92.
■ passes into the dominion of

Spain, 67.

re-discovery of, 61.

signification of the name, 62.

scenery of, 5.

Maize, 31, 102.

Manure, 100.

Maria, Donna, 68.

Martinho, S»°, 16.

Medusae, 126.

Mendicity asylum, 77.

Metade Valley, 22, 23, 24.

Miguel, Dom, 68.

Mil reis, 28.

Milho, 31, 102.

Military affairs, 88.

Mirantes, 10.

Monastic establishments, 71.

Money, 28.

Monopolies of Government, 87.

Morgado, 10, 83.

Mount church, 2, 16.

Mutton, 29.

Navigation, tables of, 168.
Nossa Senhora do Monte, 2.
da Piedade, 16.

Opuntia, 113.
Order of Christ, 68.
Oxen, 7, 32.

Palanquins, 7.

Palheiro, 15, 16.

Palm trees, 113.

Parties, 35.

Passports, 25.

Paul da Serra, 12, 18.

Penha d'Aguia, 15, 22, 23, 24.

Peseta, 28.

Pestrello, 61.

Picnics, 9.

Pico Grande, 11, 12, 17.

Ruivo, 12, 15, 21, 23.

Piedade, N. S. da, 16.
Pine trees, 103.
Pistareen, 28.

Plants peculiar to Madeira, 115.

Sir Hans Sloane's list of, 137.

Bewicke and Conybeare's list

of, 151.
Ponta do Sol, 16.

Delgada,19.

Poor, dress of, 90.

habitations of, 90.

Population, 51.
Portella, 15, 24.
Porto Moniz, 18.

Santo, 15, 61, 63, 70, 77, 89.

da Cruz, 24.

Potato, 103, 107.

sweet, 100, 107.

Praia Formosa, 16, 67.
Prazas, 4.
Provisions, 29.

Public institutions, 74.
— — revenues, 85.

Quarantine, 51.
Quinta, 9, 27.

Rabaqal, views of the, 19.

levada of the, 18.

Race course, 31.

Rain, Heberden's observations on, 42.

176

INDEX.

Rain, Mason's observations on, 43.
Rainy season, 44.
Religious societies, 71.
Reptiles, 123.
Revenues, 86.
Ribeira Brava, 16, 17.

Janella, 19.

Ribeiro Frio, 23, 24.

Rides, 8, 16.

Roads, repairs of, 89.

about Funchal, 9.

Roque, S*°, 16.

Saddles, 30.
Sancta Cruz, 14, 16.
Schools, 73, 74.
Serra, meaning of, 15.

d'Agoa, 12, 17.

Servants, 27.
Sheep, 104.
Shrove Tuesday, 34.
Sidrao, 12.
Simoom, 46.
Sirocco, 46.

Sketching in Madeira, 6.
Sloane, Sir Hans, list of plants, 137.
Snow, 47.

Soils, various sorts of, 95.
Streets, cleanness of, 4.
Summary of the appearance of Ma-
deira, 24.
Summer, 49.
Sunset, 47.
Sugar-cane, 93, 94.

Tchu-tchu, 114.

Tea, 29.

Temperature, tables of, Dove, 38.

Heberden, 39.

Temperature, tables of, Mason, 40.

Harcourt, 41.

Donkin, 41.

Tenant, relation between landlord

and, 108.
Teneriffe, 26, 112, 115, 130, 135.
Theatricals, 34.
Threshing, 101.
Til, 112.
Tobacco, 29, 87.
Torrinhas, 12, 23.
Tostao, 28.
Turrets, 5.
Turtles, 124.

Urze trees, 15, 112, 114.

Urzella, 87, 88.

Vaz, Tristao, 61, 65.

Veal, 29.

Vincente, expedition to S*°, 17.

Encumeadoof S;1°, 17.

Vine, 93.

cultivation of, 94.

best districts for, 96.

Vinhatico, 112.

Visit boat, 3.

Wages, 107.
Weeds, 102.
Wine, duties on, 86.

exportation of, 97.

various kinds of, 98.

manufacture of, 98.

Worship, British places of, 33.

Yams, 103, 107.

Zarco, 61, 64, 65, 66, 69, 74.

G. Woodfall and Son, Printers, Angel Court, Skinner Street, London.

Just published, as a companion to this volume, folio,
A SERIES OF

SKETCHES IN MADEIRA,

By LADY SUSAN VERNON HARCOURT.

Thomas JI'Lean, 26, Hatmarket, Lohdoh.

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