— a= ~ = oe eS 0 ate sone - . - _ = - ‘ 2 - ~ - ~ - eiewaunhgletineiie te ee ere ee pe ane nN SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. BY ELMER D. SMITH WHO HAS GIVEN HIS UNDIVIDED ATTENTION FOR TWENTY YEARS TO THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM AND ITS CULTURE IN DETAIL. MY . PRICE 25 CENTS. Copyright, 1904, by Elmer D. Smith. ADRIAN MICH.: FINCH, THE PRINTER. 1904. ‘youopsep ‘Aoy ‘4 °G “SSeW ‘UePIeW “bsq ‘as4aAuog “S ‘A JO A10}BAIISUOD {LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Gopies Received MAY 7 1904 Copyright Entry Ofnv.+b-1 4 ot CLASS Q@ XxXe. No. es gil CONTENTS. COPY B- ——__ Page. INTRODUCTION .. Paty Cormeen Nace tets a tales Ke tain sacar a ee 6 CHAPTER 1_HISTORY .. Pa Ss Pa aeigencion pia accede DONC vi CHAPTER II. —STOCK PLANTS , 8 Early EO PRERVIOR : 9 Cold Frames . 9 Field-grown — .-- 9 Imported Stock . Sahoo pomnoconer 10 Novelties and Scarce Sorts . ee sre eisiw areas 10 CHAPTER III. PROPAGATION 11 Cutting Bench.. ‘ 11 Selection of C uttings . 11 a ee Peaperegek x ain NREL OM Mier teat tee 383 Removing Beeline oc eed nuance Sets necnre ke so Blind Growth .. ge Senge egos 5-36 hemicnt Fertilizers. RRR 8 a eee tr afefn aie ar e's iia aiedwin rim olsie ere 36 AGATTTO Sra ae wisle did ellcisistelsiticievwie\eets olu'eeymisie'.sn 6 CONTENTS: CHAPTER VII.— Continued. Iron. Liquid “Manure . conse Burning and Damping Buds and Bee aes Taking the Buds . Stopping Record of Operations .. ee CHAPTER VIII. _EXHIBITION BLOOMS.. france ssdeesosc ue Goaoc Grown out-of-doors. . Australian Method. . Shelter or Snug Harbor . CHAPTER IX. —COMMERCIAL FLOWERS . EFS si ma ee Height of Plants \........0...0.. ee hong td When to Cut . CHAPTER X. _INSECTS. pu ENE aii : Red DIE Thrips. a aa hacers Mealy Bug... te, tenis Gr asshoppers ... Tarnished Plant Bug... Corythuca pats ha Grub Worm.. ; CUE WORM aaa raze cisctee ttle leere oe Lady Bird. sacha Golden Eye . ese Chrysanthemum Fly... CHAPTER XI. _DISEASES.. Sr ERE aR ee Rust . Cohehe crewed 4 Leaf Spot .. Mildew... CHAPTER XII. SEEDLINGS AND ‘D SPORTS .. oe 32 she atetistacwer se Seed Plants . Se Seedlings . BOTS Pes; ck Cen, eee oh ame Cae eS CHAPTER XIII. PREPARING EXHIBITS... Plants.. eet Cut Flowers ...... Foreign Shipments . Dressing Flowers . Staging Plants . Spee ee Blooms . Boards . ete ~V ases.. GHAPTER xiv “SEXIMHITIONS e 6 subs Marae Gorey: sis busier ee eae °° SMe UAE 8 eRe ee ce oe The menanithe | af CE REITER Vi TYPES, ‘ETC. oss ee te £ Seléction .. ae PaaS : ILLUSTRATIONS. Frontispiece ...... Figure 1—Cuttings .. 2—A plant by division 3—Specimen plant.. 4— Market EN ie Aor : Be Ben chlwvtled Os WALe sien ela cle yolests where) elerers) Mie! wieuwim mia vial 6—Bench tied to twine...... 7—Overfed plants..... Be=O TOW WO ee Sort ce ne ei -teskcterreusteterers G2 Terminal Budi. saesas = eshte 10—Bloom from Crown ete Caos abeciorr ds iii=Shelterior’Snue) Harbors. 22-09 cl. - 9-1 19 Bloommetrom Menmiimall ye tle. c= wera permis) heleiet =U 13—Comparative Height from Crown and Terminal ....... 14—Tarnished Plant Bug . 15—Depredation of the Tene’ Plant Bae Foes cw 16—F lower trimmed for Fertilization ...:................. 17—Pistillate and Staminate Florets........ 18—A Collection properly staged......... 42 INTRODUCTION. During the past twenty years, I have devoted much time and energy to the cultivation and improvement of the Chrys- anthemum and have received many inquiries from those de- sirous of gaining knowledge on this subject. Confronted with these facts, and realizing the urgent need for a complete, as well as practical treatise, at a price within the reach of all, I make this attempt in compliance with these demands. It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all de- tails pertaining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning with - stock plants, treating the many branches, through each stage of development, up to and including the staging of plants and cut blooms. Most of the works upon this subject have been confined to methods practical only to florists, having every facility neces- sary to successful culture. The amateur, growing a few plants for pleasure and eager for better results, has been entirely overlooked. It is hoped this booklet will meet the requirements of all. There is no plant which responds more freely to careful at- tention than the Chrysanthemum. The whole secret of success lies in prompt attention to details and when these are thor- oughly understood and executed, we may expect a generous reward. ELMER D. SMITH, Member of the Chrysanthemum Society of America, The National Chrysanthemum Society of England, and Society Francaise des Chrysanthemistes. SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. CHAPTER I. HISTORY. The derivation of the word Chrysanthemum is from the Greek words Chrysos, gold,—and Anthemon, a flower. It is not easy to say how long the Chrysanthemum has been known to mankind, but undoubtedly over 2000 years have elapsed since it was first known in the Celestial Empire. — In Japan its cultivation can be traced back over 700 years. Breynius, in 1689, was the first European to mention the Chrys- anthemum under the name of Matricaria Japonica Maxima. M. Pierre Louis Blancard introduced the first large flowering varieties into England in 1789 and the following year they were flowered and named. Mr. John Salter was one of the earliest English hybridizers, and produced many wonderful varieties from 1888 to 1848. As near as can be ascertained, it has been seventy years since they were introduced into America. Dr. H. P. Walcott is credited as being the first person in this country to raise new varieties from seed, which he did as early as 1879. The work of hybridization was taken up by Wm. K. Harris and John Thorpe early in the 80's. Their efforts were crowned with great success both originat- ing many new and startling varieties. These results were in- centive to others until the zenith was reached in 1894, when 163 new varieties were offered for sale, many of which were inferior to those then in commerce. This condition caused 8 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. many to be skeptical, doubting the merits of the so-called novelties, until fully tested. In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea of organizing a society to protect the interests and also promote the development of this flower which was fast gaining popu- larity. In 1890, at Buffalo the organization now known as the Chrysanthemum Society of America, was established. In 1894 this society appointed committees composed of experts to meet during the following season at Chicago, Cincinnati, Philadel- phia, New York and Boston, to inspect seedlings and sports. These committees have been continued from year to year, awarding first-class certificates to the deserving ones. Such action brought the varieties certificated into promi- nence, and those which failed to meet their commendation were so little sought after as to be unprofitable, and many dis- continued hybridizing. Up to the present the Society has cer- tificated 265 varieties, most of which were of American origin; although a few importations have been thus favored. The first exhibition given by the C. 8S. A. was in November 1902, under the auspices of the Horticultural Society of Chica- go. Last year it was held at New York, in co-operation with the American Institute. The next exhibition will be held November 38rd to 6th, 1904, at Boston, with the Massachusetts Horticultural Society. CHAPTER II. STOCK PLANTS. At the close of the flowering season the old plants must be saved for stock, from which to propagate young plants for another year’s use. Each grower must decide how many will be required and provide the most suitable situation for their maintenance. The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, while the commercial florist may need several thousand of the most popular sorts to meet his demand. Some varieties are more susceptible of being increased than others, making cuttings abundantly and rooting freely. STOCK PLANTS. 9 Those who propagate for their own use only should keep the plantsin a low temperature, just above freezing and even a few degrees of frost will not materially injure them. They thrive best when kept on the dry side during the dark days of winter, at which time they are rather inactive. The florist who requires quantities for early distribution, will be obliged to give higher temperature, about 50 degrees; and their needs for water should be carefully considered, avoiding if possible too abundant and frequent use, as such a course tends to weaken the plants, thus giving sickly cuttings. Karly Propagation.—_Stock plants for early propagation are generally planted on greenhouse benches, producing successive crops of cuttings. With the new and scarce sorts it is some- times advisable to take cuttings even as early as September or October, and as soon as rooted, these are planted in shallow boxes or upon the bench. When large enough the tops are taken off as cuttings. This induces the plants to make new breaks, which are used for cuttings when of suitable size. Cold Frames.—The cold frame system is most practical for those who do not have greenhouses, and the wholesale florist who needs large quantities of plants for June and July deliv- ery, will find them equally serviceable. In the construction of cold frames there is no objection to excavating one or two feet, provided ample drainage can be secured; otherwise it is best to make board frames and plant stock on the level or slightly elevated so that no surplus moist- ure will remain aboutthe roots. Stock thus stored should be protected by covering the frames with boards. To prevent continual freezing and thawing, these frames may be covered with course manure or litter. Most varieties are not injured by freezing provided they are kept in this condition until spring. Field Grown.—Field grown stock is in every way more satisfactory than that which has produced blooms under glass. They appear to possess more vigor and give successive crops with greater rapidity. These may be handled in cold frames 2 10 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. as previously mentioned, or removed to greenhouse when early propagation is necessary. Imported Stock.—Those ‘importing foreign varieties often find them in very poor condition when unpacked. This is not to be wondered at when we consider they are two to six weeks in transit. ‘They are generally packed in dry cocoanut fiber, and when taken from the box look like dry sticks. It is only by the utmost vigilance and care that such plants are nursed into activity. Immerse them into tepid water for a few hours to plump the wood and roots. After removing all lifeless growth, pot them in light soil, using as small a pot as will accommodate the roots. It should be the aim to induce root growth as soon as possible and to do this plunge them into a close case which is provided with gentle bottom heat, about 70 degrees will suffice. See that the material in which they are plunged is kept on the dry side and use water rather sparingly until they begin to grow freely. They should be looked to several times each day and if the plants or soil show signs of fungus, ventilation must be given, for such conditions, if not promptly checked, are fatal. It is often wise to remove the cuttings when quite small and root them, especially if the old plants are weak or show signs of decay. . By taking this course it is possible to establish a small plant upon its own root, which would otherwise be lost if allowed to remain until the old plant had gained vigor. Novelties and Scarce Sorts.—Novelties and scarce sorts are often bought in limited quantity to propagate from. The best results are obtained by planting these young plants into flats (shallow boxes), or upon the bench in shallow soil. As soon as they show signs of growth, the tops are taken as cuttings and the plants are treated thereafter same as stock plants. PROPAGATION. 11 CHAPTERAH, PROPAGATION, Assuming the plants have been cared for and are in proper condition, the next step is the propagation of young plants. This is best done with soft wood cuttings or divisions, the former however, are generally used. Cutting Bench.—The cutting bench is simply a table or bench constructed to hold three or four inches of material into which the cuttings may be inserted. Clean washed sand is considered the best material, but when unavailable, coke, brick or stone finely crushed and screened will give very satis- factory results. After the bench is filled with sand it should be pounded as firm as possible and given a thorough watering when it is ready for use. In preparing these benches see that all material is clean and free from decaying matter and to this end a coat of whitewash will be beneficial. Selection of Cuttings.—In the selection of cuttings it is gener- ally conceded the strong and vigorous are the best, although on several occasions we have had excellent results from those grown in the shade and drawn with heat until they were the size of knitting needles. Stock properly handled will give good cuttings, and would take weak ones only when absolutely necessary. Miking Cuttings.—These are cut from an inch to three inches long, removing the lower and shortening the tips of the larger leaves. See Fig. 1. With a knife make a cut in the sand % in. deep, or more, according to length of cuttings, inserting close together and firm the sand well about them. Give the whole a liberal water- ing and keep constantly wet until rooted, which will require six to twelve days. To insure the largest percentage the cuttings should be moderately soft at the time they are removed from the plant. Single eye cuttings of new and scarce sorts may be used when necessary. These are fastened to toothpicks with fine stem- ming wire, allowing half of the tooth-pick to extend below the 12 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. end of the cutting, which should firmly rest on the sand when inserted in the bed. See C. Fig. 1. It requires more time to produce good plants by this system than where fair sized cuttings are taken, but is often of service where stock is limited. Air and Temperature —The propagating house should be well aired and as far as possible the atmospheric temperature should not exceed 55 degrees, with a bottom heat of 10 degrees higher. Fig 1, Cuttings—A, long; B, short; C, single eye. The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted that no fast rule can be given. They may be struck in a tempera- ture as low as 40, and as high as 80 degrees, but if the former is adopted they root very slowly and many varieties become hard and refuse to root. On the other hand if too high temper- ature is used cutting bench fungus is liable to set in and ruin the crop. Shading.—As the season advances and the out-door temper- ature rises, it is impossibe to maintain 55 degrees and the soft cuttings are very much inclined to flag or wilt. For ’ PROPAGATION. 18 February and March propagation, tack burlap on the under- side of the glass to exclude the greater portion of sunlight, and as the season advances apply whitewash on outside of the glass. By such protection the cuttings can generally be rooted in fair condition up to Ist of May. After this date cover the propa- gating beds with newspapers to further protect them from the extreme heat and give copious watering two or three times a day. Let the condition of cuttings be index for shading but use every precaution necessary to prevent wilting, exclude light by covering and damp the walks to lower the temper- ature. Watering.—It is very important that cuttings should never get dry, -for under such conditions the end inserted in the sand becomes brown and hard- ened and will not take up water in sufficient quan- tity to revive the foliage, thus becoming worthless. Many of the wholesale florists propagate chrys- anthemums the year round, although the bulk are struck during the months of March, April and May. Saucer System.—Those who wish to propagate a few plants and are not favored with the facili- ties of the greenhouse, Fig. 2. A plant by division. may use shallow boxes or any dish that will hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cuttings may be inserted at a time by adopting the “Saucer System” given by Peter Henderson in his work “Practi- 14 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. eal Floral Culture,” which is as follows: “It is called the Saucer System because saucers or plates are used to hold the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put in toa depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted in it close enough to touch each other. The sand is then watered until it becomes the condition of mud, and placed on the window sill fully exposed to the sun. But one condition is essential to suc- cess, until the cuttings become rooted the sand must be contin- ually saturated and kept in the condition of mud; if once al- lowed to dry up, the whole operation will be defeated.” English Method.—The English method may be of service to the amateur and is as follows: Insert. three or four cuttings around the edge of a four-inch pot that has been previously filled with light soil, consisting of loam,’sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are placed into a close frame and given same attention as suggested for Imported Stock, pg. 10. Divisions.—In localities where the plants remain out-of-doors over winter without injury, they can be increased by removing the sprouts or stools that have sprung up from the base of the old plant. As these stools come into active growth, roots are formed near the surface of the soil, and may then be removed and replanted or potted as desired. Often such pieces are difficult to pot owing to the long crooked stems. These are removed as shown in Fig. 2, leaving a few roots to establish the young plant. New varieties are generally produced by seeds which are fully treated in Chapter XII. -Potting.—Cuttings should not remain in the bench after the roots are half an inch long, as they are potted easier and better in every way than when allowed to remain until the roots are further developed. ph: The soil should not be dry, but moist enough to remain in- tact when squeezed in the hand, and on the other hand not be muddy. Cuttings are usually potted in small pots, the two-inch size being ample. Put sufficient soil in the bottom of the pot, so that the base of the cutting will be about 84 of an inch below the surface, hold cutting in center of pot with one hand and fill in with the other. Firm the soil with thumb or SPECIMEN PLANTS. 15 fingers enough to keep the cutting upright and be sure to leave sufficient space for water, which should be applied liber- ally without delay. CHAPTER IV. SPECIMEN PLANTS. Cuttings may be taken any time from January 15th, to March 15, but those struck in February give best results. As soon as rooted they are potted in 2 in. pots using light soil and placed in a cool, airy house and as near the glass as possible. _If given proper attention, such plants will make large speci- mens from three to six feet high, and nearly as wide by flower- ing time. In the course of a week or ten days the roots will push to the side of the pot and will need shifting into the next larger size. Soil.—There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited for chrysanthemums. Each expert has a way of his own,in preparing the soil, but as equally good results have been ob- tained under varied conditions, it is safe to conclude that the compost employed has little to do with results, provided it contains sufficient food to nourish the plant and the cultivator is a close observer, considering the conditions under which they are grown. All concede that fresh cut sod piled (ate the preceeding fall with one-fourth its bulk of decomposed manure, makes an ex- cellent compost. Repotting.—Turn out the plants, take them with the left hand and place in the new pot (which is generally an inch larger than the one from which they were removed) so that the ball is a half an inch below the rim of the pot and the plant stands in the center. While held in this position, fill in suffi- cient soil and firm gently with a stick around the pot, until it is filled level with the original ball of earth. If the soil is retaintive and rather wet, the ramming process can be carried to extremes, but if of a light nature, it should be made 16 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. rather firm,’and when the final potting is done, it can scarcely be carried to excess. Stopping.—The term “stopping” means pinching out the center of a shoot, and the object is, to force the plant to make several growths instead of the present one. When the plants are established in four-inch pots they are generally from four to six inches high, and at this stage the pinching and stopping begins. This should be done a few days before repotting or deferred until after the plants have made roots into the new soil. This induces the plant to make several side shoots, and as soon as these have attained four or five inches in length they are again stopped. This work is repeated throughout the season up to August 10th. Some of | the varieties may be stopped a trifle later, but each cultivator must know the flowering time of those under his care. The early varieties set bud earlier, and it may be wise to dis- continue stopping some of these as early as August Ist. By April 1st to 15th the plants should be in full vigor and ready to shift into six-inch pots, with this potting use a richer soil by adding to the ordinary compost a dusting of wood ashes, and a little pulverized sheep manure. The latter should bé used in very small proportions. Drainage—Free drainage is essential and would recom- mend charcoal to be used for such varieties as are liable to burn. Coal ashes is also a good material for this purpose and may be used as advantageously as broken crocks. Pot firmly when the soil is light, and loosely when the soilis heavy. At this stage the plants are carefully observed, their manner of growth noted, also tendency to break, and liability to disease. The good as well as the bad points are almost certain to appear during April and only such as promise well are shifted up to the largest sizes. Some of the varieties have the habit of sett- ing premature buds at this stage of growth. Such conditions are unfavorable to the production of fine specimens, although the greater majority will outgrow the defect after this blooming period has passed. SPECIMEN PLANTS. 17 From 1st to 15th of May another shift will be necessary and this time into seven or eight-inch pots, according to the varie- ties. The weaker growing should be put into the smaller size, and the stronger ones into the largest. As the plants at this season begin to assume some size and owing to the higher temperature which prevails, the watering will need constant attention. In repotting at this time the plants should be set low enough in the pot to allow ample space for water, not less than an inch, but better an inch and a half, to hold sufficient water to saturate all parts of the soil. Final Potting.—The final potting occurs from June 1st to 15th; for this give a richer compost, using a rather rough open soil containing a large portion of broken, half decomposed sods. This must be packed more firmly in the pots. A close, heavy loam is bad, but if it must be used, it should be only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may be used to keep the water passing out freely. Watering.—All experts agree that the plants should never suffer for want of water, and consider it one of the most important details in all stages of development. On the other hand it is very important that the drainage be ample so that the water passes through freely, thus preventing stagnation, a condition condusive to disease, wHfich will finally result in fail- ure. It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants in pots is not fully indicated by the appearance of the soil. A very accurate course to follow is to rap the pots with the knuckles or a stick, those that are wet have a dull sound, and those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days.trial will teach the operator to detect the difference in sound at an instance. Staking.—During August many of the plants will have at- tained considerable height, even though they have been stopped every few days. Those which are inclined to make too dense growth should be provided. with a few stakes and the branches gradually tied out to the desired form, thus making a foundation to build upon later. These stakes will need to be 18 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. removed later on, and replaced by longer ones, when it is determined how tall the plants are likely to grow. Early in September it will be necessary to consider the final staking and tying out. The main object in specimen plants is to develop as many yrowing shoots as possible before the mid- dle of August, arranging them so as to keep the plants even and regular in form. How this is to be done is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at once as more shape- ly plants can be formed. If the plants are desired for exhibi- tion purposes and are to be transported some distance to the exhibition hall, the stake system is preferable to that of the wire frame, the advantage being that plants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there will be no friction, and at the same time occupy much less space. The best course to follow inthe matter of staking and tying largly depends upon the size and form to which they are to be _trained. The Japanese growers shape their plants into many artistic designs, such as crosses, fans, boats, parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected it is necessary to make a tempo- rary frame-work of wire or stakes to which the shoots may be tied out into the form desired, and this should be provided be- fore the plants attain any great size. The forms generally adopted for eXhibition groups are round and, slightly elevated in the center, as shown in Fig.3, page 19, and are grown all sizes from three to six feet in height and nearly as wide. _ The operation of staking is simply placing stakes into the soil, the outer ones at such an angle as to bring the branches in the desired position to give the plant the required diameter. Additional stakes are supplimented to hold the inner branches in position. The best material for tying is silkaline, en does not slip, being soft,does not injure the shoots and as its color is green, is not so conspicuous as where white string is used. Fig. 3. Specimen Plant as grown by I. L. Powell, gardener to Samuel Thorne, Esq., Millbrook, N. Y. 20 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. Tying out should not be left too long, in fact, it should be done every few days. There are always some overgrown vigor- ous shoots which are difficult to accommodate, but while supple they will bend easily. A bad hole or open space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths, bending them down and ty- ing securely. When specimen plants are grown for con- servatory decoration, or where they can be practically trans- ported to the exhibition hall, the wire frames may be used. When wire frames are used, tie as many shoots as possi- ble to the lower part of the frame, as the greatest danger is conjestion at the top. Disbudding.—The operation of disbudding will need atten- tion early in September. The early varieties setting buds first and the later ones following, according to the natural flowering time. For early exhibitions say the 1lstof November, buds should be prominent by September 15, and showing color four weeks later. At least three weeks are required after they show color until maturity. Generally all the specimen plants produce terminal buds; each shoot bearing a cluster at the extremity, which is disbud- ded so as to leave only one bud to each and this the center one. In this way the flowers are uniform in size, and if the plant has been well trained and tied out these individual blooms will nearly touch each other. After setting buds the plants will begin sending out suck- ers from the roots in all directions, which if allowed to remain -rob the buds of the nourishment which has been provided for their development. These should be removed at once and this operation repeated as often as they appear, as well as any lateral growths which may start from the shoots. Feeding.—The application of stimulants requires careful consideration and should be entrusted only to persons of judg- ment and discretion. With the roots so much confined in the pots, even more care is required than where the bench system is employed in the production of cut blooms. The pots must bé filled with roots and the drainage perfect- ly free to begin with. If cow manure is used as a top dress- SPECIMEN PLANTS. 21 ing it would be best to dry it first and afterwards break into small pieces. This acts as a mulch and fertilizer at the same time. As a safe and lasting stimulant, sheep manure is pre- ferred, which should be applied in the form of a top dressing, adding a little sandy loam to keep it open. Liquid manure may also be used if the plant continues healthy, applying once a week at first and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate of amonium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with wond- erful results, but must be applied with dircretion. From the time the buds are set success depends very much upon the judicious use of fertilizers, either in liquid form or a top dressing. Some plants will take liquid manure in liberal amounts, others if so treated are easily injured. Over feeding shows itself in yellow stunted foliage. When this occurs use clear water and let them get as dry as they can with safety. The grower needs to be acquainted with the plants as with individuals; it is a matter of experience and when carefully done may be continued until the buds show color. It is, how- ever, worthy to note that pink and red varieties, including bronze, show lack of color and also burn ‘easily if feeding is continued too long. Clay’s fertilizer is a good manure and per- fectly safe to use either as a liquid or top dressing mixed with a little loam. Soot water at times and weak lime water will sweeten the soil. The drainage must, however, be kept free, and this is some- times difficult at the end of the season, when the pots are filled with roots. Punching holes through the ball to the drainage will generally relieve water-logged plants. This chapter is largely writings which have appeared in the American Florist and are from T. D. Hatfield, Wellesley, Mass., who has been eminent- ly successful in this important branch of chrysanthemum culture, 22 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. CHAPTER: V; MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. Standards.—The cultural directions given for specimen plants will be suitable for this purpose. The greatest differ- ence being the training, allowing them to grow without stop- ing until they have attained the desired height. Standards are generally about five feet to the lower branches, although there is no fixed rule on this subject, and they may be grown any height, from three feet (which are termed half- standards,)to the height mentioned above. It is necessary the cuttings be propaga- ted early. When need- ed, provide : wel a with one Fig. 4. Market Plant. strong stake for. ¢earu plant, to which it is tied to keep the stem as straight as possible. As soon as they reach the desired height pinch out the center. The several breaks which follow form the foun- dation for top or head of the standard. These are nipped every few days the same as specimen plants. The training will require same care and attention, as well as disbudding, feeding and other details. \ MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. 23 For Market.—Dwarf plants of symmetrical form, with foliage down to the pots, are the most salable, and when thus grown require constant attention as to watering and stopping, allow- ing each plant plenty of room to keep the lower leaves ina healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 1st and grown on, either in pots, planted on old carnation benches, or in spent hot-beds, (light soil preferable) and lifted by August 15th will make very nice plants 114 to 2 feet high. ‘The reason for lift- ing early is to have them well established in their flowering pots before the buds are formed. Another system is sometimes employed which gives very dwarf symmetrical plants and often utilizes considerable stock that would otherwise be worthless. Cuttings that were struck late in June and potted in two-inch pots may be put several together in one pot about August Ist provided they are in thrifty condition. Three plants to a five-inch pot and five or six to a seven-inch and so on. By sorting and placing the taller in the center and shorter at the edge, very symmetrical plants may be had. Disbudding and feeding will need attention to assure best results. Single Stemmed.—The same culture -as given for market plants will suffice for this class, except they are generally grown in pots and restricted to one stem and flower. Those from one to two feet in height are more effective and useful than taller ones, for this reason many prefer plunging out-of- doors where they will have full benefit of the sun and air, making them more dwarf than those grown under glass. Miniatwre.—There has not been much attention given to this class in this country, although cultural directions are given in many of the old English works. The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the last of August, according to the earliness of the variety. They are taken at the period when the buds are just beginning to form and if delayed until very far advanced, the wood becomes hardened and do not root freely. These cuttings should be potted immediately into light soil and placed in a close frame which has been made up the same as a hot-bed with 24 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. fresh manure to give forth a gentle bottom heat. After the cuttings have been plunged therein they must be covered with a sash and shaded to keep out the strong light. It is also ad- visable to spray them over two or three times a day which will maintain the most genial condition for root formation. As soon as rooted (which may be ascertained by turning them out) air should be given the frame, a little at first and increasing every few days, to gradually harden the plants to a natural condition. A 38 to 31% inch potis large enough for this purpose. In selecting cuttings take strong shoots from plants in the open border or those grown under glass, and if the selection is made from those which -naturally do not grow high, so much the better. In this manner plants can be had 8 inches high with blooms 5 inches in diameter. For Cut Flowers.—The pot system is employed by all Eng- lish growers and doubtless most of those on the Continent. Culture, same as for Market or Single Stem as far as training is concerned, shifting from time to time as directed for specimen plants. Propagation may take place from February to May, ac- cording to the variety and requirements of the cultivator. Throughout England these plants are potted and plunged in the open border as soon as danger of frost is over, and could be so treated in this country if it were not for the ravishes of the Tarnished Plant Bug, which is so numerous If exhibition blooms are desired they may be grown to single stem, or stopped early in June, saving three breaks: which are grown on, each to produce a flower later. rrafted.—There are two objects in grafting chrysanthe- mums, first, to increase the vitality of weak growing varieties by grafting upon strong kinds. Second, to display a ° number of varieties on one plant at the same time. To the experienced gardener this art is of little or no interest, but to the novice there is something wonderful in the sight of a plant having a dozen or more distinct varieties flowering simul- taneously. Such plants attract a great deal of attention at the exhibitions. Where it is the desire to increase the vitality, cuttings are an = MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS. | 25 struck in the autumn or winter months, and grown on in a cold greenhouse until early spring. These are used as stock upon which to graft, and should be done in March or April. Se- lect scions from the weak growing kinds and cut the end in the form of a wedge. After cutting out the top of the stock an inch or so above the ground, make a slit an inch in depth in the stump and insert the wedge shaped scion, tying securely in place with raffia or light cotton yarn. It is necessary that the wood of both stock and scion _ be in a half-ripened condition, reasonably firm, and if pos- sible have both the same size. In case it is impossible to find scions of the same diameter as the stock, the scion should be set to one side of the incision so that the bark of both will be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of the greenhouse or any place where a close atmosphere can be maintained for a few days will be necessary to insure their uniting. If the weather is warm and the sun very bright itis sometimes ad- visable to shade the plants to prevent scion from _ wilt- ing, and occasionally sphagnum moss is wrapped around the union and the foliage moistened to prevent too rapid evapora- tion. As soon as the scions become established, which is generally in the course of eight or ten days, the tying material can be removed and the plants given more air, receiving the same care and attention as other plants. For grafted specimens itis important that all the varieties should flower at the same time, and to secure maximum effect some thought should be given to arrangement of the colors. The most showy specimens are produced by graft- ing upon strong growing standards, using one variety to each shoot. All lateral growths or breaks starting out of the stock should be removed as fast as they appear. In Open Border.—Most of the previous forms of plants may be grown in the open border with fairly good success. The essential points are that they be planted on light soil which permits of their being taken up without breaking away too many roots. If large specimen plants are to be treated this way, ample space must be given so they do not become crowd- 3 26 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. ed, and afford the operator room to attend to stopping, ete. The lifting and potting should be done not later than August 15th, so that the plants will become well established in their new quarters before buds are formed. After potting it is necessary they have a copious watering and be set in a sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts as much as possible. An old shed that will afford some light is avery suitable place. From this time on little water will be required at the root until they have become thoroughly established. It will be advisable, however, to dew over the foliage several times each day to prevent flagging. As soon as established, give light, gradually increased each day until they can stand full sun. Hardy Chrysanthemums.—Most chrysanthemums are hardy out-of-doors in the northern states with slight protection as far as their roots are concerned, but fail to be satisfactory owing to early frosts which ruin the buds when in a half-developed con- dition. The most serviceable varieties are the early flowering Pompons, which perfect their flowers before frost. Many of the later ones can be used to advantage in the southern states, or in localities where severe frosts are not expected until the middle of November. CHAPTER VI. PACKING PLANTS. For HExpress.—For shipments not requiring more than five or six days to reach destination, pack in wooden boxes that have been’ previously lined with paper or other material to keep out the frost. The plants should be thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped tight in some sort of pliable paper to keep the earth in- tact. With a light coat of excelsior on the bottom of the box, the plants are then placed in rows close to- *? PACKING PLANTS. a gether on their sides, with ball of earth next to end of the box. This is followed by another row in which the ball is placed next to that in the first row, the operation being repeated until bottom of the box is covered. ‘In putting in the next tier, re- verse them, beginning at the other end and so continue until finished. The main object is to pack securely, preventing them from shifting, even though roughly handled. Any inter- vening spaces between the plants and side or top of the box should be filled with excelsior, sawdust, or some other mater- ial, so that if the package is turned upside down they cannot move about. Inexperienced packers invariably fail in this respect and often when the plants reach destination they have so shifted in the box as to be entirely destitute of soil, as well as badly brok- en. See to it that they cannot move. Each variety must be labeled and some means prov idea so that the recipient can unpack without danger of getting them mixed. A system many have adopted is to wrap one, two, three or four plants of a kind into a bundle, each bundle being provided with a label, and are thus packed. Where five or more of a kind are ordered they are separated. by a sheet of paper. In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to wrap the boxes with several thicknesses of paper as a safeguard against frost. In very warm weather the foregoing method is impractical, as they are likely to heat and thus be ruined. From May to October the plants are generally wrapped and set up- right in'shallow boxes which have been provided with a post in each corner to which cleats are nailed. Then slats are placed an inch apart to form the cover, thus assuring a free circula- tion of air. For Mail.—In packing plants for mail shipments the soil is washed from the roots, these are then wrapped in damp moss and paper in small bundles, containing not to exceed 20 ‘in each bundle. These are generally labeled with a tough paper label and packed in paraffine lined boxes or those 28 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. made of corrogated board. All unoccupied space must be filled firmly with excelsior or similar material. For Export.—In packing for export there are two systems employed, one for the winter months, when they are packed tight, and the other for summer, which should provide light and air to the plants. When packed close, excessive moisture is to be strongly guarded against. Under such conditions the plants are sure to rot if they are to remain packed more than six days. There is sufficient moisture in the plant itself to re- tain vitality for some time, and whatever is used to fill up the intervening spaces should be perfectly dry. Moss, excelsior or cocoanut fiber are the best materials for filling. Plants that are to be exported should be put into a cold, airy house for a week or ten days and watered very sparingly so as to harden the wood. If packed too soft, they generally perish. Before placing in the boxes remove most of the foli- age as it is very apt to die and cause decay. The balls of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and tied securely. Place the plants in an upright position, on the bottom of the box, using a cleat to each row; in this manner they are held secure in the desired position. If the weather is severe, protection against frost will be necessary, and may be provided as previously described. In hot weather the same method is employed with the ex- ception that wet moss is used, wrapping each ball with wax paper. Holes are bored through the sides of the box to admit light and air. The holes are generally covered on the inside of the box with galvanized wire screen to keep mice from gird- ling them while on ship-board. Small foreign shipments are sometimes made by removing the soil and placing the plants in tin boxes, filling the inter- vening spaces with dry cocoanut fiber or moss. It is very im- portant when packed in this manner that all the leaves be re- moved except those undeveloped at the top. If the plants have been hardened there will be little loss. It is easy to test a sys- tem of packing by preparing shipment, open after a period sufficient for its delivery and note the condition, or if desired pot them to ascertain how many will survive. EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 29 CHAPTER VII. EXHIBITION BLOOMS. In beginning this section we wish to impress upon the reader the fallacy of laying down hard, fast rules, as most of the best growers obtain their results under a system of their own. The English growers consider it important that cuttings should be taken in January and February, and grown along slowly for best results. Their method of growing is in pots, however, and the one generally employed in this country is the bench system. The private gardener who has ample space can follow this method with good results, but the commercial grower whose space is so valuable, can scarcely afford todo so and must de- pend on cuttings struck later. March and April are doubtless the months when the bulk of the cuttings are rooted for this purpose. The note on selection of cuttings for specimen plants will apply in this case. Assuming the cuttings have been rooted and potted in small pots, they should be kept in a light, airy house to prevent them from becoming drawn and if the planting cannot take place until the first of June they will need to be shifted to three-inch pots, so as not to become pot-bound. Should it be impossible to provide room for this stock after having been repotted, it will be better to put cuttings in the sand May Ist, and plant directly from two-inch pots. In this way the plants will not be hardened in the least and push forward without delay. As to soil, this was fully defined under heading of Specimen Plants. It is best not to have it too rich at planting time, but add fertilizers little by little as the plants require it. In this way there is less waste of material and the plants receive the maximum benefit. Partially decayed sod is an excellent material to which plants take kindly, and if no manure has been added the cultivator has complete control of the varieties un- der his care. Some varieties, like Mme. Carnot and its sports, are injured by rich soil. By following this plan each variety can be treated according to its requirements, giving one or 30 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. more applications of top-dressing or liquid fertilizers as de-. sired. This work should be deferred until the plants show signs of active growth, which is generally during July. Planting.—Those who have houses of sufficient height and can plant by May 15th, doubtless have best results in as much as the plant has a longer period of growth and becomes thoroughly established. As to depth of soil it may be used from four to six inches, the former preferred, as there is less liability of its becoming sour before the plants are well established. When the benches are made ready and filled with soil, the next step is to decide how far apart they shall be planted. There are many opinions upon this subject and without question the best results are ob- tained where ample room is given for full development of the plant. With most varieties ten inches apart each way is little enough, although a few kinds which produce small foliage might be planted closer. In planting firm them well, leaving a slight depression around each plant to receive the first few applications of water, but do not wet entire until the plants make new roots and are strong enough to utilize all the soil. It often happens (for various reasons) that it is not practical to purchase new stock to replace those having been pot-bound, — and thus hardened. In such cases plant them down to the soft growth or on their side, layer fashion, allowing only the soft top to extend above the soil. As the season advances this layered portion will make roots and assist materially in the con- struction of the plant. This method is advocated only when absolutely necessary. Firming.—After the plants begin making rapid growth, go over the bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm the soil, so that the original four inches will not exceed three when firmed. If ofa porous nature it can scarcely be overdone, but if stiff clay, caution is advisable lest the drainage be im- paired. By,planting in shallow soil and firming it well, con-— ditions are established very similar to those of the pot system, which will produce short-jointed plants. EXHIBITION BLOOMS. ol Tying.—As soon as the plants are 8 inches in height some arrangement must be made for staking and tying. There are several systems:—dwarf, short-jointed varieties, like Merza and others, may be tied to wires running full length of the row, supplying additional wires when required. See Fig. 5. Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched tight over each row. Most commercial places use the twine system, which consists of two wires, one over each row of plants and the other a few inches above the soil. Two-ply jute twine is Fig. 5. Bench of ‘‘Ivory’’ tied to wires. cut the proper length and tied to top and bottom wire. To this twine the plants are tied as often as required. See Fig. 6. Watering.—From this time on the principal detail is water- ing, which requires constant attention and discretion. The plants being vigorous will use up quantities of water each day and at the same time we must guard against overdoing, par- ticularly is this the case with many of the weaker growing sorts which suddenly tell us of their maltreatment by the foliage 32 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. begining to turn yellow, showing a sickly appearance. The best remedy is withholding water, not to a degree that will in- jure the plant for want of it, but sufficient to regain its normal condition. Let the appearance of the foliage be an index to to the supply of water. Spraying.—Spraying overhead will be necessary to keep Fig. 6. Bench Cowie Bian tied to twine. Red Spiders in check, which are very hard to control. This process will require some judgment, for if repeated too often or late in the day it is apt to cause rust and other diseas- es. There is not so much danger during the hot summer months, but from August 15th to flowering time no water should be applied after 5 p. m., so that the plants will be Les fectly dry at night. (See diseases page 55.) ; _ EXHIBITION BLOOMS. 30 Airing.—The chrysanthemum does not enjoy a close, stuffy atmosphere, hence an abundance of air during the growing season is important. Shading.—A few years ago it was considered necessary to give a light shading through the summer months to chrysan- themums planted under glass. This is hardly necessary in most localities, as shorter jointed plants and firmer wood result from full exposure to the sun. At the approach of color itis quite important the pink and red varieties be partially shaded from the direct-rays of the sun, as these colors seem to be easily faded. There may be localities where this would be unnecessary, but in the middle states it often continues warm and bright into October and such precaution is necessary to secure color of the highest degree. Scalding.—After a few days of dull weather, (which makes the growth unusually soft) followed by very bright sun, the young tips sometimes scald or burn. In such cases use every effort to prevent them from wilting. Frequent spraying will keep the atmosphere charged with moisture and be very bene- ficial. Should this fail apply a light shading of clay to the glass. This is prepared by adding sufficient clay to water to make it muddy and applied by spraying over the roof. It is not wise to use a permanent shading and the one suggested will be removed by the first shower, or by spraying. Top Dressing.—In the course of from six to eight weeks after planting, the details given will have been attended to and the stock making rapid growth; the roots having extended to ali parts of the soil. At this period they will require some ad- ditional food and a light top-dressing of manure from spent hot-beds in a half rooted state, or dry pulverized cow or sheep manure may be used to advantage. If the stock has been planted by May 15th, this operation will take place early in July, and 30 days later the second top- dressing may be applied. If the planting does not occur until the first week of June we would advise giving the first top- dressing second or third week of July, and second the b4 SMITH’S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. third week of August, provided the plants are in a healthy, ac- tive state and appear to need further encouragement. While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disadvan- tage, and that is covering the soil so its condition cannot be readily determined by the eye. Some use three inches of top- dressing and apply it all at once. Watering under such con- ditions and do justice to the stock is difficult, as it must be done by guess or the soil under the dressing be carefully ex- ‘amined; it may be dry in places and wet in others. By making the manure fine, adding and thoroughly mixing an equal amount of loam, will furnish material for an excellent dress- ing. This can be easily distributed on the benches any de- sired thickness, in accordance with the needs of the variety be- ing treated, or in consistency with the strength of the material used. If sheep manure is used one-inch of this mixture is ample for the vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. When horse or cow manure is used 11¢ inches will be about right. This should be firmed down to come in close contact with the soil. In this way the dry spots will be apparent on the surface of the beds, which is the main object of this process. In case the manure is not made fine enough, it may be necessary to cover the dressing with a thin layer of soil so the conditions will be apparent at the surface. Removing Stools.—Plants that have been top dressed soon throw up stools or suckers from the ground. These should be removed as soon as they appear, care being taken not to injure the roots in so doing. This operation should be repeated from time to time as necessity demands. Should the plants appear to need stimulants prior to:the times for top-dressing it will be safe to give them a very di- luted application of liquid fertilizers. If such fertilizers as nitrate of soda, and sulphate of ammonium, or nitrate of potash are used it should not be stronger than 1 oz. to 6 gal. of water. It is true they would stand a stronger application without ap- parent injury, but it must be remembered that in a few days the top-dressing is to be applied and when given a thorough ee ee ee ee eae eee ee ee ee ee ee OP