THE SOUTH DEVON MONTHLY MU SEU M. VOLUME VII. THE SOUTH DEVON MONTHLY MUSEUM. VOLUME VIT. JANUARY TO JUNE. 1836. PLYMOUTH : G. P. HEABDER. CONTENTS or VOLUME VII. Anecdote of Sir Thomas Picton, 40 Antiquarian, No. I., The 55 Adventure with a Lion. — Miraculous escape, 64 Antiquarian, No. 11., The 133 Ancient Castles of Devon, 133 Antiquarian, No. I J I., The 147, 213 Alfred Tennyson, 163 Anecdote of a Highwayman, 273 Battle of Algiers, The 73 Circulation, Mr. Swain's Lecture on 32 Character of Sir Thomas Picton, 47 Cargoes of Ice to Calcutta, 205 Cotton Manufactures, 207 Civil War in Devon, Some account of the 55 Dress, Manners and Habitations of the ancient inhabitants of Devonshire 105 Dieppe, 225 Death of Nelson, 263 Few words on the Gentlemen^ A 19 Feelings on leaving home, 201 Feelings at first approaching the land of the New World, 202 Geology, Rev. G. Smith's Lecture on 72 Geography of Animals in South Devon, 83, 117 Horrors of the African Slave-Trade, 189 Historical Scites of Boston, 206 Hosts of Irish Emigrants employed on the public works, 210 Impressions of America, 20 1 Island of Jersey, The 261 Kilworthy, 193 King, The 270 Local Sketches, No. II. 1 Literary Notices, No VIII. 43 VI Lansbys of Lansby Hall, The 92 Lundy Island, 186 Local Sketches, No. IIL 193 Lord Brougham, 279 Magnetism to which the iron in a ship is liable, by induction, from terrestrial magnetism ; and how far its influence on the compasses may be corrected by Professor Barlow's plate, Observations ou the 34 Medal of the Plym, Tamar, Lynher and Tavy Humane Society, 241 New House of Lords, The 191 New field of Poetry, 224 Opinion of the daughters of America, 209 One of the curiosities of New Orleans, 209 Pleasures and advantages of the study of nature, 23 Proceedings in the Athenaium of the Plymouth Institution, 28, 68 Plymouth and Dartmoor Railway, The 97, 157 Poetical appearance of an Ice island in the dark blue sea, 202 Proposals to establish a natural history society at Plymouth, 242 Queen Ina, or the last of the Paries, 1 Respiration, Mr. Swain's Lecture on 33 Reflections on Maritime Pursuits, 126 > Rail Roads, 204 Republican Manners on board American steam vessels, 206 Race Course on Long Island, New York, 206 Restlessness of the American character, 207 Remarks on Emigration, 232 Sufferings of Lieutenant D. O'Brien, R. N. 13, 53 112, 158, 246 " Sacred Garland,^' The 43 Sketch of the History of Ireland, 68 Star of the East, The 130 vn Subterranean Cavern at Stonehouse, Account of a 153 Siege of Plymoth, The 173 St. Helena, 259 Teignmouth and Shaldon Bridge, 145 Treaty se of Tailorie and Tay lours, The 147, 213 Utilitarianism, Rev. S. Rowe's Lecture on 28 Unhealthiness of the South States of the Union for a White Population, 208 Wreck of the Button, The 49 Yankee Pedlars, 208 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS- Pixies' Pool, Ina's Coo me, near Tavistock. Wreck of the Button, under Plymouth Citadel. Tunnel of the Dartmoor and Plymouth Railway. Teignmouth and Shaldon Bridge. Facsimile of the Medal of the Plym, Tamer, Lyn- her, and Tavy Humane Society. Vlll POETRY. Anne, To ' 104 Alfred Tennyson, 163 Apollo's Revenge, 197 Beautiful Summer Day, In a 45 Cock's Tor in the Dartmoors, or Sunshine before Rain, 18 Church-yard, The - 222 Confession, The 258 Dying Flower, The 261 God every where, 44 Grave of the Indian Chief, The 223 Hymn in Spring, A 45 Inland Tide, The 134 Love of other days. The 90 Land's End, The 99 Music of Spring, Tlie 104 Mate in Life's Voyage, To my .143 Nature, To 224 Ode to the Autocrat, 100 Poetry, 185 Returning Swallow, To the 196 Song, 104 Spring, To 104 Sunrise in the Mountains, 11 Sea, The 103 «' There is a tide in the aflfairs of men/' 115 Verses, 188 Vale of Lanherne, The 166 Printed by G. P. Hearder, 14 Buckwell Street, Plymouth. ■?> a ^2 fl 1 IP @ (o) [L INa'S COOMBB, TAVISTOCK. Drawn, for the "Mnscum/' by Mirs Jl. Evams. THE SOUTH DEVON MONTHLY MUSEUM PLYMOUTH, JANUARY 1st, 1836. No. 37.] Price Sixpence. [Vol. VII. LOCAL SKETCHES, No. IL QUEEN INA, OR THE LAST OF THE FAIRIES. It happened, in days gone by, that a company of fairies fixed their haunts within the precincts of a shady dell. No rude sunshine intruded on the gleaming beauty of that leafy spot. No rough wind disturbed the quiet which reigned around. The per- fection of repose dwelt there, until a light laugh from the elfin sprites awoke its sylvan echoes, and then died with unearthly sweetness down the moonlight glade. Flowers of pallid hues, primroses, and snow- drops, and violets dim, all that lov^e the shade, sprang into loveliness beneath the protecting influence of the overhanging trees. A clear brook, after rippling and dancing through the mountain-land, here gather- ed together its waters, and formed a deep pool, reflecting every surrounding object of beauty. How the fairies discovered so pleasing a spot it is impos- sible to tell, but certain it is that tradition reports their dwelling there "a merrie companie," witti Ina, a fairy of high degree, as their queen and head. She had fixed her court beneath the fantastic roots of an old oak, which for ages, with fostering care, had shaded the territory of her elfin race. Her palace, carpeted with delicate feather moss, and lit up with the shadowy light of a hundred glow-worms, excited VOL, VII. — 1836. . A 2 QUEEN IN A, OR THE the wonder of all fairy land, and her dress of gossa- mer, gemmed with pearls of dew, no less won the admiration of her subjects. In truth, Ina was a perfect being, the loveliness of her mind correspond- mg with the outward splendour of her person. No fairy could compete with her in wisdom, none could excel her in aerial beauty. There was a mystery too about her birth and parentage, which threw addi- tional attractions around her person. She dwelt in a hallowed sphere into which none dared intrude. Ages had rolled away without changing her beauty, or impairing the wondrous structure of her mind. Her subjects lived in peace and security beneath the gentle rule of their beloved queen. Each night she watched their gambols on the shelving banks of their favourite stream ; each morn beheld their exit into the secret recesses of the oak. Thus time passed on, until one unlucky evening a wandering fairy of doubtful character, named Re- port, intruded on their peaceful retreat. She in- formed them that in a cavern on the wild moor resided a tribe of pixies, a wicked and spiteful race, who were ever willing, and eager to commit mischief. Then she recounted some of their horrible deeds ; how they were in league with some of the giants of old, who had turned a noble forest into a barren waste, and piled rocks upon rocks to mock the order of the universe ; how they caused the herbs to fade and the trees to wither, and the waters to spread themselves, so that all was damp and unwholesome under their blighting influence ; how they revelled in the storm, which drove the poor traveller to seek for shelter, because with flickering torches they might lead him astray. And how worse than all that very night, they had enticed a poor weak rustic from his home and friends to wander up and down and down and up, in pursuit of a light, which would only lead to his own destruction. Even now, con- tinued the elfin gossip, they are close behind me, and I flew on the wings of the wind to warn you of LAST OF THE FAIRIES. 6 the approaching intruders. Terror filled the hearts of the surrounding audience, their sports were neglected ; their merriment was over, and they has- tened to seek counsel and advice from their queen, Ina. The fairy was reposing on a bed of violets, shaded by the canopy of a white convolvolus, which hung its graceful festoons over the royal couch. Roused by the busy hum of her subjects, she pati- ently listened to their story ; then leading the way to the council hall, thus addressed them. — " I have long forseen that our peaceful region would be one day invaded ; my preparations have been made ac- cordingly, but in this case they are wholly useless : should the rustic advance to the neighbouring pool, he is lost for ever. Its waters must not be sullied by mortal touch ; its sanctity must not be broken by the death of man. Follow me, my friends ! my sceptre, Nina. We will now see if we cannot obviate this mighty evil.'* Saying thus, queen Ina proceed- ed with her wondering train to the borders of the clear stream. Bending over the font, for one mo- ment, she gazed musingly on its pellucid waters ; then gathering together a portion of the liquid store, she flung it high into the air ; the drops descending caught the rays of the pale moon, and formed a rain- bow. " For ever, for ever,*' repeated Ina, waving her sceptre over the glittering bow. Stopped in its course the faUing moisture remained suspended in the air, touching on either side the shelving banks of the stream. Gradually it changed its form, stones^ of mighty size replaced the trembling drops, and with wonder and dehght the fairies beheld — a bridge. Then arose a shout of joy from the elfin crew ; they bounded on the object of their admiration; they decked it with moss and fern ; they hid themselves in frolic beneath its spreading arch. Scarcely had their vagaries ceased, when a sound, perceptible even at a distance to their delicate organs, scared them from the scene of their sports. From a secure hiding place they beheld a sprite approach. 4 QUEEN ISAy OR THE hideous in form as evil in nature, waving above him that deceitful torch, fed by unwholesome vapours of the marsh, which invited onward an unfortunate vic- tim to his treacherous wiles. The rustic followed with wearied and dejected mien, vainly attempting to approach the light, which ever flitted before him. ^^ Unlucky Hobnail ! " said he aloud, " never again will thy mother's fire warm thy shivering limbs, never again will her home-brewed ale refresh thy parched mouth ! Oh," continued he, smacking his lips, as thoughts of former dainties crowded on his mind, " Oh, for a savoury pie, or a tasty pasty, or even a morsel of bread to satisfy my gnawing hun- ger." Saying thus, he would most probably have wandered thoughtlessly into the dangerous pool, had not the gentle Ina suggested an idea of the friendly bridge. " Good luck," cried Hobnail, as he safely passed over the arch " every thing favours me, there 's the light before, and the bridge and all ; I shall reach my mother's house to night." The sound of his voice died away in the distance, and the fairies sprang from their hiding place, and with thoughtless glee began their games again. Not so queen Ina. She wandered away from her com- panions, and seating herself on a leafy spray, rumi- nated on the adventure of the nie^ht. "They will worry to death that poor rustic," said she, " but I will befriend him, the power of the wicked shall be laid low. I will haste to set him free." Following up her good design, she sprang from her resting place, and, collecting together the elfin tribe, directed them to prepare for a removal. Signs of discontent were of no avail, the rule of their sovereign was arbitrary, and the next evening saw them on the bosom of the rivulet, each in a tiny bark, ready to follow the golden shell which contained their queen. The sails of the royal vessel, formed of the filmy wing of the gad-fly, were quickly filled by a gentle breeze, which bore them onwards against the contrary power of the rushing current, to the very source of LAST OF THE FAIRIES. 6 their beloved stream. It welled out from beneath the grotto-like recesses of a high rock, and in this sheltered spot, Ina commanded her obedient subjects to remain in peace and safety. She however staid not with them, but hastened to prosecute her errand of mercy. Gently spreading her silver pinions, she mounted into the air, and, gliding past fertile valleys and ver- dant lawns, directed her unerring flight to a vast, uncultured moor. Here the genius of desolation reigned without controul. Ina shuddered, as resting on the pinnacle of a stupendous tor, she surveyed the apparently interminable waste. As far as the eye could reach, the solitary track extended, broken only by those rugged masses of stone, piled, (as the fairy Report had before stated) in wild and motley confusion, by the gigantic efforts of the early rava- gers of the place. Dense and sullen wreaths of fog marked the course of a hundred rivers which took their rise in the surrounding marshes. A solemn grandeur, unredeemed by any trace of beauty, reigned around. Ina shuddered : — She had heard of the frightful genii of the place, she knew her power was feeble in comparison with theirs, but strong in her work of kindness she rose to proceed. Once again her eyes wandered over the scene. The mist which had been slowly gathering, now rolled rapidly onward, magnifying every object into start- ling dimensions ; onwards and onwards it came, alternately magnifying and then hiding every object on which it rested. Heavy clouds obscured the light of the friendly moon, and in its place lurid lightnings swept with fitful power across the sky. The rock to which Ina still clung, groaned, and heaved, and shook, mingling its hollow murmurings with the thunderings of heaven. On a whirlwind rode the genius of the storm, smihng with frightful dehght at the havoc and destruction beneath. Again the rock to which Ina clung, trembled and shook. At length, with a mighty crash, it fell. b QUEEN INA, OR THE The sound re-echoed by all the neighbouring tors, was heard even above the roar of the elements. Forth from the foundations of the earth issued a shadowy form, increasing in stature as it ascended, until its head mingled with the clouds of heaven. Ina, standing on the fallen rock, surveyed with awe- struck wonder the gigantic spirit, dimly seen through the dusky fog, extending an arm, as if to reach the utmost boundaries of the waste. " I am," he said, " the genius of the moor ; darest thou intrude on the solitude in which I dwell." " I dare," replied Ina, " the queen of the fairies has no fear." " The queen of the fairies," — repeated the shadow with a sarcastic laugh, " knowest thou I could raise a thousand forms such as mine, which should quickly deprive thee of thy paltry honors ?" "I know," replied Ina, "♦but 1 tremble not, there is a power to which even thine must bow, a power which pre- sides over this beautiful earth, a power which protects me now ; it is" — " What?" said the spirit, impatiently. " The power of Goodness." The shadow frowned. " Beware" — he cried, but Ina, heeding him not, secure in her good resolutions, glided on her way, like the dove of peace, regardless of the warring elements. A dull flickering glare, which ever and anon burst into brightness, and then faded into thin air, guided our fairy queen to the dark cavern of the pixies. She paused, at its entrance, to watch the ugly sprite who kept guard at the mouth of the cave. His form was misshapen and crooked, one leg shorter than the other accounted for the waving of the torch which he bore in his claw-shaped hand. This was Will of the Wisp, king of the pixies, and enemy of the human race. Awhile he danced and shouted a song of triumph over the victims of his deceit, or dipped his flambeau into the stagnant pool, whose pestilential vapours re-animated its dying flame. As the unholy light glanced on the delicate fairy, a shout of delight broke from his leprous lips. LAST OF THE FAIRIES. 7 " Welcome, queen/' he exclaimed, as springing for- ward with his skinny arm to detain her : quietly eluding his grasp, Ina veiled her charms in her gold- en halo, and, gliding past him, entered the cavern which contained the object of her benevolence. A dank odour arose from the dripping walls, which almost overpowered the fine senses of the fairy ; reptiles and uncleanly insects crawled from the with- ered moss, and a croaking toad cast her venom on the passing fay. Extended on the damp earth lay the unfortunate rustic, groaning from beneath the labours of the wicked sprites, who were busily em- ployed in throwing around him their cunning toils. In vain he writhed from side to side and endeavoured to cast off his chains j too firmly were they rivetted and at length he abandoned himself to a calm des- pair. Concealing herself in a dark recess, Ina watched the result of the pixies' proceedings. Wa- ving his torch, and shrieking in dismay, the sentinel who had quickly pursued the gentle Ina, broke in upon the busy scene and dispersed his comrades in search of the fairy queen. Trembling in her snug retreat, Ina beheld prepa- rations for their investigation. Now they almost touched her, now they fled away in an opposite di- rection. At length, to her infinite joy, she watched their exit from the dismal cave. Then, emerging from her hiding place, she approached the^prostrate rustic, and with phant finger commenced her Hercu- lean task. But vain were her endeavours to unravel the curious coil of the sprites : every effort only in- creased the diflficulty : the knots slipped tighter even beneath her skilful hands, and, at length, despairing of success, she threw herself mournfully on the yield- ing soil. Her head sank on her breast, tears forced their way through her silken lashes, and sighs broke the silence of the dreary place. Collecting her dying energies, she arose from the ground, and, departing from the cavern, again wended her way across the dreary moor. Pausing near the fountain-head, she 8 QUEEN INA, OR THE gathered the trum])et-shaped flower of the honey- suckle, and through that small clarion, wound a mort, which, floating through the hollow grot, awoke from their rest the slumbering fays of her bright domain. Quick as thought the elfin sprites joyfully bounded towards their queen, and hailed her safe return. Forming themselves into a dance, they commenced an airy round, when Ina again restrained them.*' My children," she said (and her tone was sad and melancholy), " our gaieties are over, our joy is gone. No more will the sound of your light laugh break the silence of the woody glades. No more will your busy feet imprint the springy turf. The dominion of the fairies is over. I go to resign my crown." " Nay, nay," said one of the fairy tribe, " leave us not sweet Ina, thy do- main is safe ; thy frame is strong ; we shall never be happy with another, leave us not sweet Ina, or if thou goest, we will go with thee." The fairy queen hung her head in silence, her hands were clasped on her heaving breast; her graceful form shook with emotion. Raising her head, she exclaimed, "alas my little ones, will you follow to the shades of death: will ye pass with me the vale of destruc- tion ?" " Art thou not every thing to us Ina ? through all we are thine," replied the loving fays. Over- powered by their affection, Ina fled from the spot, and mingled sweet and bitter tears with the waters of the font. In a few moments she rejoined her comrades, and, in her silvery tones, thanked them, and bid them prepare to follow her. "Our journey is long," she said, "I would depart with the coming eve." The last rays of the sun had faded, and the sha- dows of night fell before the fairies ventured to com- mence their aerial flight. The stars came out, one by one, and looked down with trembling radiance on the elfin train, as on rapid wing they wound their way amidst the golden spheres. Sometimes a wan- dering fay rested on her radiant wing, and held h. LAST OF THE FAIRIES. sweet converse with a curious star, but direct as an arrow's flight, Ina gHded on, never swerving from the hne of her heavenly course, until they arrived at the sacred road, studded with myriads of stars, lead- ing to their place of destination. Following its direction they reached a glorious throne, too daz- zling even for their practised sight. Here sur- rounded by unnumbered votaries. Reason held her court. Arrayed in garments of light, with a coun- tenance made beautiful by the splendour of Truth, she directed her hand -maidens, Faith and Hope, to unravel the fate of the past, and prepare for the in- scrutable decrees of the future. In imitation of their queen, the fairies bent before the throne. Then the golden harps sounded, and Reason arose to de- mand the object of their visit. Still kneeling, Ina extended her sceptre to the presiding power. " Take," she said, *^ the symbol of a noble race. It has never been sullied by dishonour, it shall never be clouded by injustice. I resign it into your hands, secure in the knowledge of a resulting good." " But, your existence," said Reason. " I know," continued Ina, ^^ our existence ends with our departing power. Springing from, and sustained by, the influence of superstition, I know that when thou hast usurped her place, the scene of our enjoyments and la- bours is over. But better. Oh, far better is it thus, than that the sway of Superstition should bind down the energy of the noble race of man. Go, Reason,'* continued the generous being, ^^ set the captive free ; rouse him from the lethargy of despair ; loosen the toils of the wicked. I know the evil ones will fall ; it is just; it is right. The good too will suffer," said she, tenderly regarding her kneeling compani- ons, *« perhaps that is well also : let the few be sac- rificed for the many ; let the fairies be lost for the good of men. Warn mortals from the region of fancy and they will be happy ; teach them thy pre- cepts and they will be good. Farewell, Reason ! may thy reign be prosperous, may thy dominion be VOL. VII. — 1836. B 10 QUEEN INA, OR THE everlasting. When the captive is set free ; when thy reign is begun, then will the race of Ina be seen no more." " No more, no more/' murmured the elfin train, until their voices died away in solemn sweetness far from the heavenly throne. In silent admiration, Reason watched their down- ward flight, then turned to execute the noble man- date of the fairy queen. When the crescent moon had gained her zenith, the fairies reached the grotto at the fountain head. They lingered not in this lovely retreat, but sought their tiny barks to visit once more their beloved home. " Home, home," sang the mournful voyagers, as each small vessel dropped gently down the stream. The zephyrs caught the sound as it fell, and mingled their sighs with the murmuring strain. Onwards and onwards floated those sailor fays. The flowers paid them homage as they passed ; the stream hushed its me- lody to listen to their song ; until the gallant fleet was safely moored in the still waters of the well- known pool. Ina revisited with her train all their favorite haunts. They viewed again and again their goodly palace ; they passed and repassed the magic bridge; they wandered with unceasing regret through the moonlit glades ; they climbed once more the mossy hillock. Ina stood in the midst ; the golden halo encircled her form, the beauty of her mind was enshrined in glory ; she appeared, as she really was, an image of perfection. Her right arm was raised towards the blue sky, which faintly struggled through the gloom of the impending trees. Again the strain arose, swelling and falling with the fitful breeze. Suddenly it stopped. " A change came o'er the spirit of the dream." The clouds rolled back. A blaze of light covered the expanse of heaven, and visited the hidden recesses of the earth. Then arose the sound of a million voices, rejoicing in the glori- ous heavens. It was Man hailing the approach of Reason; from her radiant throne the goddess des- cended, while the votaries of Superstition trembled SUNRISE IN THE MOUNTAINS. 11 and fled before her mighty power. The giant of the desert disappeared. The affrighted pixies plunged into the lethal waters of the stagnant pool, and ever burns a lurid light over the scene of their unholy labours. The rustic awoke from his dis- graceful lethargy, he shook off the toils of his per- secutors : gazed on the enlightened world with wonder and joy, and, trampling beneath his feet the bonds of superstition, walked amongst his fellows, firm and erect. At the same moment, unheard, but not unnoticed, the spirits of Ina and her train were absorbed in the overpowering light. Reason be- wailed the departing fays, the waters murmured a funeral strain to their memory ; and the rustic, in grateful remembrance, called the valley after the elfin queen. Ages have past on, and, although the dominion of the fairies is extinct, yet the scene of their gaiety remains, and the mossy dell and magic bridge still mark the lovely retreat of Ina's combe. R. P. E. Park TVood. SUNRISE IN THE MOUNTAINS. FROM AN UNPUBLISHED POEM, BY SOPHIE DIXON. Thou, eye of Heaven, immortal Sun ! awake ! Yon eastern cloud the morning ruby dyes; Lift up thy awful countenance, and take Thy place of glory in those boundless skies : God of a hundred nations ! wherefore lies Thy brow of beams beneath the hills afar? Break off the bands of Night! Oh Sun ! arise! Who shall thy everlasting steps debar ? Who check thy endless race, or stay thy heavenly car ? Thou climbest o'er the mountains : — Lo ! thy face Looks from the cloud, in perfect beauty seen; Darkness hath fled to his accustomed place, And scant a wandering shadow comes betweeri 12 SUNRISE IN THE MOUNTAINS. Thy light of joy, and earth's rejoicing scene. The Hills stand up exulting in thy course ; Oh, Sun ! from far they hail thy brow serene ; Ascend I the world drinks in thy vital force, As streams for ever flow from an eternal source. Pale looks the horned Moon, as toward the west She turns her face decrescent, and appears Like one whom grief hath wasted ; and oppressed By thy bright presence, darkens in the spheres. But Morning looketh lovely; and the tears Of Night, like drops of thy own light are strown. Enter thy courts in gladness ! for the fears Of jealous Darkness fly before thy throne : Oh Sun ! whose path of joy is trod by thee alone ! Thy rays shoot forth like arrows from the bow Held by the mighty hand ; they fly, and pierce The inert mass, till wakened by thy glow, Order and brightness fill this Universe. Thou dost for ever give, and wide disperse Thy benefaction ; — yet no change is thine I Decay hath touched thee not with mortal curse, But, as thy spirit, were indeed divine, Thou dost bestow and bless, yet still supply and shine. The streams roll down before thee, like the feet Of them who rusli a Conqueror's car to hail ; They lift their hands of foam, and hoarsely greet Thy coming forth in glory o'er the vale. The forest oaks wave all their leaves ; the gale Shakes the white canna, as it murmurs by ; Broad pinions o'er the winding waters sail ; The laverock's lighter wing ascends on high. And music's matin voice o'erflows the earth and sky. Oh, Sun ! the bard hath too a voice of praise, The song of grief flies darkened from his string. And while his eye is brightening in thy rays The strain of gladness to his lip shall spring ; And from the ancient rocks re-echoing. Wide o*er the desert's hundred hills resound : Thou Sun, yon heaven's imperishable king I Beauty and strength thy shining course surround. With light thou art enrobed, and with dominion crowned! 13 SUFFERINGS OF LIEUTENANT D. O'BRIEN, R. N. Continued from page 251, of Vol. VI. He, and his companion, returned ; and, as we expected, they had every single thing, together with the stock of a double-barelled pistol: he had made a very diligent search for the barrels, but without effect ; we assured him we had thrown them away prior to our quitting Verdun, and that we took the stock and lock to use occasionally instead of a tinder box, which we had no possibility of providing. They began to search us separately ; a few things were found upon my comrades : but, fortunately for me, they did not find another substitute for striking a light, which I had, and which was more complete than the other. The brigadier could be hardly convinced that my walking stick had not a small sword in it; he kept twirling and screwing it about, and was not satisfied after all but that it was a sword cane ; he kept it for the night, and we were reconducted into our den. After the door was secured, and the jailer had departed, we began to discuss what had recently passed. Each of my friends congratulated me upon ray success with respect to the tinder box, and after some minutes we endeavoured to take a little repose. Awaking about midnight, I deliberated upon the consequence of having so complete a tinder box, with the necessary materials, in my possession ; and having found a convenient place, I deposited a part of them, reserving the stock, &c. At day-light we were again en route, chained and hand-cuffed. The day was very rainy, and the roads prodigiously heavy, the march long and fatiguing. I cannot omit observing, that one of the party, having occasion to be unchained from his comrades, he could not obtain permission, before one of the guard had pinioned him with a strong C(>rd, which the gend'armes carry for that purpose, and which the guard held during the time. About six we arrived at Maubertfontaine, in a most miserable plight, covered with mud and dirt. We found a new dungeon in this village also, where we were very soon deposited. A boy, about sixteen years old, had been confined there six or seven days ; he belonged to Lisle, not many leagues distant ; his crime was, having no passport. He had nothing but black bread and water during his confinement, and informed us, that we had been expected to arrive two or three days before, that they were going to search us very strictly, &c. I contrived, with this boy's assistance, to place my tinder box in safety, just at the moment when a guard was entering to search us. We had nothing about ns now but our money, which had hitherto been respected and left us : but these rapacious animals very quickly deprived us of it, prouiising to pay our expenses to Verdun, and deposit the remainder with General Werrion, at that depot ; the reader may suppose how far this promise was adhered to; however, we got a kind of supper; some straw, blankets, and substitute for beds, in consequence of it, and they paid them- selves. The poor boy felt hiiaself perfectly happy at having something good (as he termed it) to eat. We gave him a share of every thing that was brought us, and the guards were astonished at our generosity. I observed one fellow amongst them, who began to exclaim against the English nation and its subjects, with great vehemence. He wished it at the bottom of the sea : if he had his will, he would behead every British pri- soner in France : he wouhl never desire better employment than to stand executioner: with many more liberal remarks, too tedious to mention. The excessive passion he appeared to be m during these exclamations, induced me to inquire from one of the set, the cause of so much inveteracy; when I was informed, that he had been only two days liberated from Me- 14 SUFFERINGS OF LIEUTENANT o'bRIEN. zieres jail, where he had been confined two months, by the sentence of a court martial, for allowing two English prisoners to escape; government supposing they had bribed him. (October, 1807.) The guards visited us in our dungeon every hour during the night ; yet, notwithstanding, I found an opportunity of making away with the remainder of the tinder box. At day-break, we were chained to a cart and hand-cuffed ; the roads, from the late fall of rain, being too heavy to march on foot. In the evening we arrived at Mezieres jail, and were put into the yard, after being strictly searched. Nor could we procure even a dungeon, until we had agreed to a most exhorbitant price, which the jailer charged for some refreshments, &c. he procured for us. He very laconically observed, " I know the gensd'arraes have plenty of money, which they took from you. You may as well let me have part, as let them have all ; you will not siand in need of any in a few days:" thus intimating, that we should be shot as spies, which was the general opinion every where. Our treatment was pretty nearly the same throughout unto Verdun, where we arrived at the latter end of October. I was separated from my compani- ons, being considered as the chef du compot ; and was thrown into a miserable dungeon, wherein there was another, supposed to have been a spy, and who expected to be brought to trial in a few days. Being now separated from my brothers in adversity, it affected me much more than any punishment they could inflict. I was certain, that if only one of the party should suffer death, I should be the person ; as the oldest is gen- erally chosen ring-leader, agreeably to the French laws ; and from the num- ber of times it was hinted to me on the road, I expected it, and was perfectly resigned, being conscious of not having* committed any crime that merited such punishment. I passed a very unpleasant night. My fellow prisoner was very inqnisi- tive, and anxious to know what I had been guilty of. I gratified hira in some measure, but was not in a communicative mood. At day-break, a guard came to conduct me to the place of examination. Here I found Lieutenant Demangeoit, of the gensd'armerie, a scrivener, and Mr. Galliers, interpreter. My examiuation continued two or three hours ; every question and answer was noted down. I was minutely cross-exam- ined with respect to the pistol-stock found with us: interrogated particularly about where I had been on the day Buonaparte passed through Verdun : what company I was in ; who I breakfasted with ; in short, questions that entirely puzzled me to know their motives for asking them ; however, they implied, I conceive, a good opinion of my address, and a wish, if possible, to implicate me. I was shewn my letters, but was informed they would be transmitted to Paris, for the minister of war's inspection. Upon remonstrating upon the cruelty of being parted from my comrades, I was conducted to their prison ; they had previously been moved to the place of examination. We were not allowed to see each other, until each had been examined : however, <»ur questions and answers were nearly the same. We amused ourselves all the ensuing night, in talking over the particulars of our different qiiestions, answers, &c. The jailer supplied us with what nourishment we were allowed, having the remainder of our cash in his possession. We had neither fire nor candle-light. Some days had elapsed, when we were again conducted separately to be examined, myself first. The Lieutenant informed me, they were questiims fVom Paris. They were certain we could not have gone so direct a cdurse for Estaples, without guides, haviug no compass nor chart. I replied, that mariners always steered sufficiently correct by the stars ; when we could see them, we were never at a loss. They wished to be informed if I knew anything of the coast of Fracce ? If I bad ever been stationed off SUFFERINGS OF LIEUTENANT O^BRlEN. 15 there ? I made answer, that every British naval officer was better acquainted with that coast, than with his own ; we could hardly go up or down chanael without acquiring a knowledge of the French coast : in short, I left no doubt on their minds with respect to our local knowledge of it. The questions were the same to all the others, and we were then again reconducted to prison. In a week, we were ordered to prepare ourselves for a march to the fortress t>f Bitche, in Lorrain, a place well known to a number of our countrymen ; a place in which many a valuable British subject has terminated his existence in all the agony that illness and despondency can create. Here, in some wretched cell were we to remain during the war ; nay, they even asserted, that it w^as Buonaparte's own decree. Lieutenant Pridham, 1st, of the late frigate Hussar, a worthy and humane officer, by some means obtained permission to visit us : he corroborated the information, and gave us General Werrion for his author. He expressed great sorrow for our hard fortunes, and justly observed, that death was preferable to such a sentence. We were resolved to make another effort at ail i-isks, and if possible, regain our liberty : cash was wanting. 1, however, procured a small supply through the interposition of a worthy friend, notwithstanding the strict guard that was kept over us. The morning of our departure arrived ; we joined eight other culprits at twilight, and were placed in a large waggon, under a very strong escort of gend'armerie, with a brigadier to command it. We were confined the first night in a most miserable dungeon, in a village called Muletour. It was so very small, and there were so many of us, we could scarcely breathe. Our allowance of straw, a pound and a half each, was given us to lie on, and the following night we were lodged in>Mitz jail. We remained here several days : at last an order came for half of us to march towards our destination, two others being with us ; four were accordingly ordered to prepare ; we were now in hopes of having another chance of getting out of these scoun- drels' clutches, but were much mistaken, our guard watched us so closely. We were so well secured with handcuifs, and with chains, that it was impossible to attempt it, and we were safely lodged in Sarre Louis jail. This is a depot for seamen, and «ne of punishment for officers who may transgress, but is many degrees superior to where we were ordered to. Se- veral of our countrymen obtained permission to see us ; from one I received a small map of Germany, torn out of an old geography, which I carefully stitched in the lining of my waistcoat. We were now joined by those left in Mitz prison, and were soon again on the march towards our destined habita- tion : the same precautions were taken for securing us, and but little or no hopes were now left of our escaping. We arrived at Sarreguerriere, only six or seven leagues from Bitche, and were secured as usual in the jail; the next day we were expected to arrive at our horrible abode, at about four in the afternoon. In the morning our guards came with a large waggon, in which we were placed, and to my astonishment and delight were not chained : I considered this an opportunity that ought to be embraced, particularly as there could be no hopes of any other chance ; indeed it appeared an interposition of Divine Providence in our favour. I communicated my intention s to my companions ; and after we had got out of the town, we descended from the waggon, observmg to the guards, ihat we preferred walking a little. Mr. Essel remained in the waggon. Messrs. Ash worth, Tuthill, and Baker, (of the merchant service; with myself, were walking a -head of the waggon. We had not gone more than two or three miles, when I discovered a wood about 150 yards from the road ; our guards were about 50 yards behind us, they were on horseback, and although there were no leaves on the trees, we were certain they could not pursue us, but 16 SUFFERINGS OF LIEUTENANT o'bRIEN. with a great deal of difficulty, owing to the branches; and if they dismounted, we were well assured we could out-run them. The moment arrived ! I gave my friends the word, and away we ran, the guard in full speed at our heels. The ground being very heavy, a kind of fallow, between the road and the wood, Mr. Baker fell down, and was instantly seized. We, were more for- tunate; crossed each othev frequently in the wood, quite out of breath ; I observed to them, that they must be very cautious in keeping out of pistel shot of the guards, who were now riding in all directions through the trees, calling out, "arretez coquins !'' They quitted me, and I, fortunately at this moment, I got a tree between me and them, and sat down ; I observed the guards pursuing my companions ; the moment I lost sight of them, I drew to the borders of the wood, (the opposite side to the direction which they had taken) perceived an extensive plain, and a wood, about a mile distant ; without any more deliberation, I entered the plain, and was in a very few minutes in the next wood, Avithout seeing or being seen by any body. Having thus far providentially succeeded, I began to consider what step 1 had better next take, and, after a few minutes rest, being quite exhausted, I determined upon quitting this wood also ; but at the opposite extremity from that where I supposed my pursuers were, being of opinion that they would visit that part, after they had diligently searched the other, which was now surrounded by the peasantry, men, women, and children ; it being Sun- day, and 50 livres, (£2. Is. 8d.) sterling, reward being ottered for each prisoner of war, brought a prodigious concourse of people, and left me but very little hope of remaining in safety any place, where they could suspect a man could be concealed. On quitting this place, I conjectmed I was aboat three or four miles from vhere 1 at first escaprd. lnimcn.se plains, stubble ground, &c., presented themselves to my view, with the river Sarre close to the southward of me, but extremely rapid, and no part fordable. I observed several people at a distance, ninniri<; toward** tlie first wood. My case appeared desperate : and, to ;i\' i 1 ;-i u i<'ii, 1 tlu-uuht the \)^e, very uncom- fortable, with respect to tla- niiul, wet, and dirt, that 1 was obliged to wallow in, but otherwise it was a perfect paradise to me, and all I regretted was, not having my poor comrades with me, although I comforted niyself, by being assured that they must all have escapeil, even those who did not run in the begin, ning, as they were left with only the waggoner, the miaul- ha\ing pursued us. (November, 1807). In this situation 1 lay, an\iou.-l3 wi.-iiiiii; for night to arrive, and dispel part of my apprehensions. I was obliged frequently to shift from one side to the other, the moisture becoming very disagreeable ; by this time I was wot through in every part, and extremely chilly, having been in a great perspiration when I entered. I could distinctly hear the alarm bells ringing in the adjacent villages, and the whistling, howling, and shouting of the peasantry, in the direction I had just quitted; and tre.|iiently I heard V(/ices close to SUFFERINGS OF LIEUTENANl' o'bRIEN. 17 But now the much desired moment was approaching fast; the sun was setting, and, to my great mortification, with every appearance of bad weather. It already began to rain very liard, which obscured the moon, that was, about this time, eight or nine days old. Reflecting on my present state, I foucd it truly pitiable — with only the small old map, already mentioned, to direct my paths ; without compass or guide, meat, drink, or companion, in the dreary month of November. The nearest friendly town to me was Salsburg, (in Austria,) between seven and eight hundred miles distant. Nevertheless, having escaped from the clutches of tyrants, and being my own master, more Jhan compensated for a thousand times more hardships. I cut a stick oat of the very bush I had lain all day concealed in, and picked a number of haws off it, which I put in my pocket, and swallowed, stones and all, occasionally. About half-past seven I ventured out, shook and cleaned myself as well I could, recommended myself to our Merciful Creator, and proceeded, with great precaution, towards the wood, in which I had separated from my companions, supposing that they would return there also, to meet me. I traversed the wood, about three or four miles in different directions, but to no purpose : now and then I whistled, which was a former signal established amongst us, but all without success. I, therefore, remained alone, cold, fatigued, and drenched with wet. The moon being entirely hid in consequence of the inclemency of the weather, prevented my knowing to a certainty what course to take. The risk was too great to venture on the higii road ; I knevi^ this from sad experience, and yet I was so nearly perished with cold and wet, that it was impossible to remain still, I therefore kept running and walking onwards during the night ; frequently impeded by the course of the Sarre, which confused me greatly. At length, being very much fatigued, from the commons, deserts, Sec, that I had gone through, and finding a convenient wood, though destitute of leaves, I got into it, aud concealed myself in a tolerably good part, a little before day-light. I never recollect feeling or suffering so much from cold, it rained incessantly all that day. I swallowed a few of my haws, and endeavoured ro comfort myself, by imagining that the ensuing niglit might be fine, and that I might possibly fall in with my comrades, which would, indeed, have been the greatest consolation. I also felicitated myself on not being much more than 15 leagues from the Rhine : that being the distance when T quitted my companions; admitting that I had been going the opposite direction all night, I could not have increased the distance much. (November, 1807.) I was very much annoyed all this day by moles, rats, and other small animals, somewhat like squirrels; the rats approached often so near, as to lick my shoes. At the close of the evening, a swineherd was conducting his hogs by my hiding place : I saw him very distinctly. One of them took flight exactly towards me, he sent his dog in pursuit of it, which providentially turned the hog; otherwise it would have absolutely ran over me. I need not observe how much I was alarmed, especially as I could not have been far from the place I had escaped from. About eight o' clock I quitted my retreat. The night was very inclement, it continued raining and blowing very hard. I was equally at a loss which direction lo take, not being able to see either moon or stars. About nine o' clock I discovered a hut, and imagined this would be a good opportunity to endeavour to procure a morsel of food of some kind. 1 reconnoitered the place very attentively, and approached most cautiously the door; the struggle between the desire of procuring some sustenance, (which I so much wanted) and (he dread of being arrested in the attempt, is easier conceived than des- cribed. After deliberating some length of time at the door, agitate