SPOBTING ADVENTUBES
IN THE PACIFIC,

WHILST IN COMMAND OF THE "REINDEER"

BY

CAPTAIN W. R. KENNEDY, R.N.

UontJon :
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,

CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1876.

[All rights reserved.]

Boncrou Library

VICE-ADMIRAL ARTHUR FARQUHAR,

LATE COMMANDER-IN-CHIEF ON THE PACIFIC STATION,

IS DEDICATED, WITH FEELINGS OF AFFECTION

AND RESPECT.

PREFACE.

DUEING the cruise of the " Reindeer" in the
Pacific, I occasionally contributed a sporting
yarn to the South Pacific Times, and the
Panama Star and Herald. One or two a]so
appeared in the Field and Land and Water.

Since my return to England I have strung
these yarns together in the form of a narrative,
in hopes that it may serve to amuse some of
my old shipmates, and perhaps be of passing
interest to the general reader.

The Illustrations are from sketches made by
myself at the time.

W. B, K.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGK

H.M.S. "Reindeer" outward bound . ; . .2
Crossing the Line v * . . . . . .3

Cape Froward, Straits of Magellan, the Southernmost

point of South America . . » . .23
A Glacier in Smyth's Channel . , . A .26

Amongst the Ice in Eyre Sound . •>•»*•' • 28

Duck-shooting near Huacho, Peru . ... .60

The Colonel's Hut ... . . . .' . .91

Charge of the Black Bull . . . . . .99

The Cotton Factory of Jauqa, near Tepic . . .125
The English Consulate after the Earthquake of San

Salvador . . . . . -...-. 161

The Cathedral, San Salvador, after the Earthquake . 163
The Ohispo Station on the Panama Railway . . 2l6
Great Fire at Panama: H.M.S. "Repulse" and

" Reindeer " at anchor in th« Bay . . . 227
The Grand Hotel, Panama, after the Fire . . . 229
Duck-shooting among the Alligators . , . ." . 237

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN
THE PACIFIC.

CHAPTER I.

ON the 26th of August, 1871, her Majesty's
steam sloop " Reindeer " sailed from Plymouth
Sound, bound for the Pacific station. No par-
ticular incident occurred on the passage to
Madeira, where we arrived on the eighth day
after leaving England.

j During our stay at this lovely island some of
us made an expedition to the Raba9al, a pic-
turesque spot amongst the mountains, in search
of sport and scenery.

Starting at night by boat, we had made
fifteen miles by daylight, when we landed and

B

2 SPORTING ADVENTURES

commenced the ascent of the mountains, which
at this part of the island are 5000 feet high :
some of the party preferred being carried up in
hammocks, whilst others walked. The scenery
throughout is very fine, but sport there is none,

H.M.S. "REINDEER'"' OUTWARD BOUND.

and all we could show after toiling many hours
was a few couple of half-starved rabbits and a

partridge.

Descending by the way we came up, we
rejoined the ship, very well pleased with our

IN THE PACIFIC. 6

excursion, but mentally resolving never again
to seek for sport in Madeira.

A German corvette, the " Nyrnpke," was
lying at anchor in the roads with us ; she was
also bound to Rio de Janeiro, and was to sail
three days before us. The " Nymphe " was
as nearly as possible the same size as the
" Reindeer," and was reported to sail well; so
we looked forward to a trial of speed with her,
and we asked them to report our coming, in
case they were in first.

Sailing from Madeira on the 9th of September,
we passed to the eastward of the Cape de Verde
Islands, and crossed the equator a few days
afterwards. The ceremony usually performed
on board ship when crossing the line has too
often been described to need repetition here ; the
scene represents Father Neptune surrounded
by his staff on the forecastle of the " Reindeer."
A wretched victim is undergoing his examination
before the board previous to being tilted back-
wards into the sail, where he will meet
with a warm reception from the "bears,"

B 2

4 SPOET1NG ADVENTURES

who may be seen disporting themselves in the
water.

This custom is not always carried out in a
man-of-war, as some captains consider that it
interferes with the discipline of the ship. In
reality it does not do so, and the ceremony, if
carried out in a good-tempered way, adds much
to the mirth and joviality of all- on board. On
the 6th of October we anchored in the beautiful
harbour of Rio de Janeiro ; the " Nymphe " had
not arrived, nor did she appear for eight days
afterwards, so that we beat her by eleven days.

On comparing our logs, this discrepancy was
partly accounted for by the different routes
taken by the two ships ; the "Nymphe" went
to the westward of the Cape de Yerdes, and
encountered a hurricane which delayed her three
days ; she also crossed the line farther to the
eastward than we did. There can be no doubt
that by crossing the line well to the westward
a narrower belt of calms is met with, and the
S.B. trade picked up sooner than by adopting a
more easterly route.

IN THE PACIFIC. 5

During our stay at Rio I accepted the offer of

Dr. G to visit his bungalow, accompanied

by some of the officers of the ship. The house
was situated several leagues by rail from the
city. The scenery alon^ the line is magnificent,
as the train winds among the mountains, ascend-
ing the most wonderful grades, and affording
lovely views at every turn.

Having enjoyed the hospitality of our worthy
host for a couple of days, and inspected his
coffee plantations, of which he was justly proud,
we returned to the ship, prepared for a start;
but our departure was delayed by an unfortunate
collision between some of our marines and two
native boatmen, resulting in the death of the
latter.

This affair caused great excitement at the
time, and was not settled for more than a year
afterwards. The rights of the story can never
be known, the darkies not being in a position
to give evidence, whilst the account given by
the marines, whether true or false, was a
plausible one, and no amount of cross-cxami-

O SPOUTING ADVENTUKES

nation could shake it. At all events the case
went before the Brazilian Court, on which
occasion I attended, accompanied by an officer
of the ship ; no conclusion could be arrived at,
and as there was no cause for our further
detention we sailed from Rio on the 18th of
October, and were soon bowling off eleven
knots an hour, leaving the beautiful mountains
of Brazil under our lee.

Six days of favourable winds carried us to
the latitude of the Rio de la Plata, off which
we encountered a "pampero :" during the gale
we lost one of our boats, and received some
slight damages. Fine weather succeeded, and
on the 2nd of November we sighted the low
and barren shores of the Falkland Islands.

When rounding Volunteer Point, with the
lighthouse at the entrance to Port Stanley in
view, we met with such a furious gale in our
teeth, accompanied by so heavy a sea, that we
could make no headway against it ; so, bearing
up, we anchored in the snug harbour of Port
Louis, which lay conveniently under our lee.

IN THE PACIFIC. /

The same afternoon I landed with one of the
officers for a ramble with our guns, taking with
us my retriever " Niger," and the boats' crew to
carry game. We found great quantities of kelp-
geese, ducks, and penguins along the shore :
these proved to be worthless. The ducks are
called steamer ducks from their habit of flapping
along the water like a paddle-wheel steamer :
they are not fit to eat, though their eggs are
good.

Soon after we landed we came across a flock
of upland geese, some of which we bagged :
these birds are exceedingly handsome, and are
good eating. The male is pure white, and the
female a beautiful mottled brown, with chocolate-
coloured breast, and a bronze green bar on the
wings. Proceeding onwards we presently came
to a small loch, on which many kinds of duck
and geese were disporting themselves ; stalking
these, we opened fire on them from opposite
directions, and for the next few minutes our
guns were actively employed, until the water
was strewed with dead and dying, and the blue-

8 SPORTING ADVENTURES

jackets had as much as they could carry. We
returned on board with twenty-four geese, eight
ducks, and a couple of snipe. The geese
weighed on an average 9J Ibs., and the snipe
exactly J Ib. each.

The next morning we again landed, and shot
thirty-one geese, and five couple of ducks before
noon ; when we went back to the ship, and the
gale having moderated we weighed, and steamed
round to Stanley Harbour, where we anchored
the same afternoon.

A short description of the Falk lands may be
interesting.

These islands are situated about 300 miles
eastward of the Straits of Magellan ; they
number about 200, the two principal ones
being the East and West Falklands, which
are as large as all the rest put together. The
general appearance of the coast is low and
barren; there are, however, many good har-
bours which afford shelter from the frequent
gales.

There is excellent pasturage on the larger

IN THE PACIFIC. V)

islands, and many hundred head of wild cattle,
horses, sheep, and goats, are to be found thereon,
and wild pigs and rabbits abound on the smaller
ones. Wild fowl of every description are to be
met with in countless thousands, in fact it is a
regular sportsman's paradise ; the great draw-
back to the place is the amount of wind which
always prevails, gales springing up every day
and lasting till sunset. In the immediate
vicinity of Port Stanley game is scarce, from
being continually disturbed, but at a distance
from the settlement no less than four different
sorts of geese are to be found, besides duck of
many kinds, widgeon, teal, snipe, swans, plover,
penguins, and every description of gulls and
sea fowl.

There are also some guanacoes on one part of
the island. A couple were originally introduced
by Captain Packe, and the herd at the time of
our visit numbered some thirty or forty.

The governor, Lieut. -Colon el D'Arcy, having
intimated to me his wish to visit some of the
distant parts of his dominions, the " Reindeer"

10 SPOBTING ADVENTURES

was placed at his disposal, and on the 7th of
November, having embarked his Excellency and
two of his friends, we put to sea.

The intricacy of the navigation around these
coasts necessitated our reaching a safe anchor-
age before dark, and the afternoon of our
departure from Port Stanley we anchored in
Mare Harbour. We had observed a herd of
guanaco watching the ship with much curiosity
from the neighbouring hills as we steamed up to
the anchorage ; so as soon as we had anchored
I landed in company with the governor and
Captain Packe,and proceeded in search of them.
We walked inland some distance, shooting a few
brace of geese on our way, till we spied the
herd, numbering from twenty to thirty. It was
apparent that the guanaco had already seen us,
and had no inclination for a closer acquaintance,
as they trotted off across some sand-hills where
we had no chance of following them with any
prospect of getting a shot. There was an arm
of the sea between us and the animals, but the
water was not more than knee-deep ; so sending

IN THE PACIFIC. 11

two blue-jackets across to head the guanaco, we
went round the arm to intercept them. Pre-
sently we saw the herd trotting towards us, so,
lying down on the side of a hill, we watched the
graceful animals as they approached us, uncon-
scious of danger.

When about 200 yards off they stopped, and
we fired several shots at them, but with no
better result than to scatter them in all direc-
tions. Seizing my gun, while Packe took the
rifle, we gave chase. I followed a small lot of
five or six, but had great difficulty in keeping
them in sight, and still more so in getting any-
where near them, owing to the unfavourable
nature of the ground — not a tree or bush was
to be seen, nothing but a succession of low
sand-hills ; however, the inquisitive nature of
the beasts assisted me. Running as fast as
possible, with my body bent almost double, I
must have presented a curious object to these
unsophisticated creatures, whilst my curly-
coated, black retriever running beside me, like
an animated mat, completed the illusion. I

12 SPORTING ADVENTURES

presently found myself within 120 yards of two
guanacoes, which were standing looking at me.
Aiming at the largest I fired, when they both
bolted, "Missed, by Jove !" and I felt the sort
of miserable sensation that one feels after having
missed a stag, when Sandy says nothing, but
takes a long pull at the whisky, and lights his
pipe with resignation. I looked round, not a
soul was within a mile of me, and I felt thankful ;
but, halloa ! why the guanaco, after running
bravely for a few hundred yards, rolls over,
heels in the air ! Bravo, the smooth bore,
and welcome is the sight, for well I know
that brute will never rise again. Hurrying up
I arrived to see the animal breathe his last ; the
ball had gone right through behind the shoulder,
piercing the heart. I stood awhile admiring
the graceful proportions of the guanaco, an
animal I had never seen before, and from the
original wild stock of which the llama is
said to be produced. Its legs, feet, and
neck were like those of a camel, head like a
sheep, its body as big as a full-grown donkey,

IN THE PACIFIC. 13

and covered with beautiful, soft, reddish wool.
My dog evidently did not know what to make of
him, and seemed to think very little of him.

Finding I could not move the carcase, I went
back and got one of the men, with whose assist-
ance I dragged it down to the beach.

The turkey buzzards now crowded round for
their share of the spoil, and we could not get
rid of them until I had shot one, and spread his
corpse over the guanaco, pour encourager les
autres.

Joining Packe, I found that he had wounded
another guanaco, which had crossed the water
and escaped on the other side.

It was now nearly dark, so we made the best
of our way to the ship.

Leaving Mare Harbour the next morning at
daylight, we steamed through the reefs which
surround its entrance, but, like all the rocks
on this coast, they are so clearly marked by
kelp as to be easily seen and avoided, and
anchored off Lively Island for a few hours.
Weighing again, from there we reached

14 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

Bleaker Island, where we anchored for the
night.

The ship being secured, a large party of sports-
men went ashore. Attaching myself to the go-
vernor and Captain Packe, we first visited a small
lake close to the beach, where we shot at least a
dozen ducks in half as many minutes ; we then
went in search of wild pigs, as their tracks were
plainly to be seen. Packe and I entered some
long pampas grass, accompanied by our two
dogs, Niger and Turk. The latter soon gave
tongue, and bolted into the thick scrub, whither
we followed as fast as we could, guided only
by the sound, as nothing could be seen at any
distance.

Presently I caught sight of a pig, and fired a
snap-shot at it through the rushes. On going
to the spot, I found to my horror, not only the
pig lying dead, but my poor faithful dog Niger
lying near it, killed by the same ball. I never
saw the dog when I fired, and can only suppose
that the poor beast must have jumped up at the
moment, receiving the ball through his head

IN THE PACIFIC. 15

before it reached the pig. I was much grieved
at this sad accident, for, besides the value of
the dog as a retriever, he was a great pet with
all on board, and a most amusing, intelligent
creature. Thoroughly disgusted with the day's
work I returned on board.

Some of our sportsmen had been successful,
and had bagged two large sows, which must
have afforded good sport ere they succumbed,
judging by the way their bodies were riddled
with balls.

On the 9th we left Bleaker Island, a fit name
for such a place, and, touching for a short time
at Speedwell Island, where an eccentric indi-
vidual, supposed to be sheep-farming, lived,
we anchored the same evening at Fox Harbour.

The next day several parties landed, with rod
and gun, and another went to haul the seine.
Taking a light fly-rod I fished a small stream
at the head of the harbour, and killed upwards
of three dozen small trout, besides putting as
many back. These fish are somewhat similar
to the common English trout, with the same

16 SPOTTING ADVENTURES

pink spots ; they are not so well shaped how-
ever, being long, narrow fish, in poor condition.

Most of the land about Fox Harbour is the
property of Captain Packe, who kindly supplied
us with excellent mutton and beef for the
officers' and ship's company ; there are also
three or four settlers living there, sheep-farm-
ing— some on their own account, and some in
Captain Packe's interests.

The shooting here was very indifferent, but
the seining party had fine sport; they spread
the net across the entrance to a creek which
was well stocked with mullet. The creek being
a cut de sac hardly a fish escaped, and the result
of the first haul was about 500 mullet, averaging
from 1 Ib. to 10 Ibs. each, and some as much as
141bs., besides a quantity of small fry.

Leaving Fox Harbour, November llth, we
steamed through Falkland Sound, but a gale
springing up obliged us to seek shelter under
the lee of Swan Island, where we anchored, to
wait the, turn of the tide. There are some
sheep on this island, which were landed by

IN THE PACIFIC. 17

Mr. Cobb some years ago, and which have since
gone wild ; having a few hours to spare, we
went in search of them.

Starting across country we came to a lake
swarming with duck and teal, and a few geese.
A volley soon scattered them, when the sport
began. There was another small lake not far
off, and the birds kept flying from one to the
other, giving us the most splendid shots. Elton
stood at one place, I at the other. After some
twenty minutes' shooting we gathered up the
slain, amounting to twenty brace of teal, besides
several ducks, and a few geese. We now went
after the sheep, a flock having been spied some
way off; so, joining Cobb and Packe, we pro-
ceeded to stalk them, having first changed our
cartridges to ball. The sheep saw us approach-
ing, and bolted at once, but stopped to feed in
a valley some distance off ; so we made a long
detour to circumvent them. Favoured by the
ground, we had no difficulty in getting to within
200 yards of them, but could not approach
nearer without being seen ; however, by crawl-

c

18 SPORTING ADVENTURES

ing through the grass we got a trifle closer,
when they either saw or winded us, and went
off at a gallop.

Thinking it likely they would make for the
beach I ran down to cut them off, and posted
myself in view of a pass I expected them to
take. I had hardly reached this when the flock
came in sight, headed by an old ram. They saw
me instantly and stopped, while the old fellow
took stock of me, but I cut short his delibera-
tions by a ball through the head; the rest
bolted, but had not gone far before the second
barrel rolled over another, which I also secured.
The flock meanwhile ran right against Packe,
who killed one and wounded another, which we
afterwards got. We killed altogether five, but
four of them were in such poor condition as to
be not worth taking back. The old ram I had
first killed was tolerably fat, so we took him
on board ; the ball had entered his eye, and
gone out at the back of the head. It was
now getting late, so we retraced our steps
towards the ship, shooting a few rabbits

IN THE PACIFIC. 19

and some beautiful pink-breasted gulls on our
way.

Leaving Swan Island we reached Port Howard
the same evening. This is one of the most
desolate spots in the West Falklands ; the har-
bour, however, is a good one, being completely
land-locked. We remained there all the next
day, Sunday. There are many wild cattle in the
neighbourhood, and we were promised some
good sport if we remained, but we could not
spare the time.

From Port Howard we steamed across to a
small island near the opposite shore, where we
landed and shot twenty couple of rabbits in a
very short time, and from thence proceed-
ing through the northern entrance of the
sound, anchored the following morning at Port
Stanley.

Sport in these islands is not altogether unat-
tended with danger, on account of the bleak
and desolate nature of the country. On two
occasions naval officers have lost their way, and
perished from exposure during the night ; but

c 2

20 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

now an Admiralty order forbids parties of less
than three from going out shooting together.

On the 16th of November we sailed from Port
Stanley for Valparaiso, and the following day
touched at Keppel Island, where there is a
mission station for instructing the natives of
Terra del Fuego. The head-quarters of the
mission are established at a wild spot on the
southern shores of Terra del Fuego. This
branch is under the charge of Mr. Bartlett, in
whose hands it seems to do well. Whilst
getting in supplies of potatoes, &c., I took
my gun and started off for a lake some miles
inland, in hopes of getting a shot at a wild
swan ; a Fuegian leading a horse to carry game
accompanied me. On my way to the lake I shot
several brace of geese and some snipe and
rabbits ; no swans were to be seen, and I re-
turned on board, after an absence of four hours,
with twenty geese, fifteen snipe, eight ducks,
and three rabbits. Putting to sea the same night
we steamed clear of the land, which at daylight
the next morning was no longer in sight.

CHAPTER II.

THE passage from the Falklands to the Straits
of Magellan is usually a stormy one ; so we con-
sidered ourselves fortunate when at daylight of
the fourth day, after leaving Keppel Island, we
sighted Cape Virgin at the entrance to the
straits, and by eight o'clock were fairly in the
channel. In the first narrows we found the
current running so swiftly that, although going
eight knots by the log, we were scarcely moving
past the land ; by putting the canvas on we
increased the speed to twelve knots, and pushed
through, and, without stopping at Sandy
Point, anchored in Port Famine the following
morning. The scenery up to this part of the
straits is very tame ; low, sandy shores, desti-

22 SPOTTING ADVENTURES

tute of vegetation, are on either side, but west-
ward of Port Famine it alters completely ;
rugged, snow-clad mountains tower up on all
sides, so that it is difficult to make out the
channel without reference to the chart.

Port Famine is not by any means the sort of
place one would expect from such a name ; we
had some capital sport amongst the wild fowl
and snipe, which are to be found in great
numbers a mile or so to the westward of the
anchorage. We killed some very beautiful
geese, of a different sort to any we had seen at
the Falkland Islands. I also bagged a wood-
cock, the only one seen; although, from the
nature of the ground, I have no doubt they
breed there.

Whilst having our luncheon on the banks
of the river we were rudely disturbed by
a 1501b. shell whistling over our heads, and
bursting in the mud on the opposite side. This
was followed by another, upon which we de-
camped. On board the ship they were practising
at a mark with great guns, and we had mean-

IN THE PACIFIC.

23

tiously approached the very spot where we had
agreed the guns should be pointed.

From Port Famine we pushed on to the
westward, but being unable to round Cape Fro-

CAPE PROWARD, STRAITS OF MAGELLAN, THE SOUTHERNMOST POINT Of
SOUTH AMERICA.

ward, owing to the gale in our teeth, we bore
up and anchored for the night in Nicholas Bay :
the next morning we made another attempt, and
succeeded in doubling the Cape, the southern-

24 SPORTING ADVENTURES

most point of South America, and a magnificent
headland.

Soon afterwards we had our first introduction
to the inhabitants of these desolate regions ; a
canoe-full of Indians came off from the Fuegian
shore, bringing with them some arrows and
other trash, which they wished to exchange for
rum or tobacco, the only English words which
they seemed to have acquired.

Notwithstanding the extreme cold they were
almost naked, their sole covering being a
guanaco robe about their loins. These wretches
are probably about the lowest in the scale of
humanity, and would seem to supply the missing
link between man and monkey; they subsist
chiefly on seals, whales' blubber, or whatever
garbage they can find along the shore.

Passing through Crooked Reach, we anchored
in a lovely little harbour called Playa Parda
Cove. This small port, though perfectly land-
locked and secure, is so confined as to be only
fit for small vessels. It is a picturesque spot,
surrounded by lofty and inaccessible mountains,

IN THE PACIFIC. 25

with a waterfall at the head of the harbour.
The entrance is exceedingly narrow, and is
difficult to distinguish.

On the 26th of November, four days from
entering the Straits, we sighted the Pacific Ocean
for the first time. The ocean looked anything
but pacific just then, for it was blowing a gale
from the westward, sending in a heavy sea.

The advantage of the route by Smyth's
Channel was now manifest, for had we put to
sea at Cape Pillar, the western entrance to the
Straits of Magellan, we should have placed a
very dangerous, iron-bound coast under our
lee, whereas by proceeding up Smyth's Channel
we insured smooth water for another 400 miles
or so, with the advantage of being so much
nearer to our destination when we emerged
from it into the open sea.

We anchored for the night in Sholl Harbour,
a desolate, miserable place, and a bad anchorage,
but conveniently situated for putting to sea, or
going up Smyth's Channel, according to the
judgment of the commander.

26

SPORTING ADVENTURES

Leaving this inhospitable place at daylight,
we entered the channel, threading our way
between lovely islets; and passing Welcome
Bay we reached Columbine Cove the same

A GLACIER IN SMYTH'S CHANNEL.

evening. The anchorage at this place is quite
unsafe ; it is so limited in extent that one cannot
veer much cable for fear of tailing on the rocks,
and with a short scope one is apt to drag, .as
the squalls blow with great violence. During

IN THE PACIFIC. 27

tlie night we dragged right out of the cove, but
fortunately along shore, and we soon brought
up with a second anchor. From this place we
went on to Mayne Harbour, into which we
groped our way about midnight ; it was so dark
and the entrance so narrow that we expected
to touch the rocks on either side at every
moment ; once inside, however, the harbour is
snug enough. From thence we proceeded to
Puerto Bueno, which is rightly named, being a
safe and commodious harbour, where, to our
surprise, we found H.M.S. " Chanticleer," the
vessel we had come out to relieve.

The " Chanticleer " sailed for England the
next day, and we continued our course to the
northward ; our coal was now beginning to run
short, obliging us to be very economical. I
was in hopes of reaching Port Grappler the
same night, but darkness overtook us, and,
passing Bold Head by mistake, we entered what
proved to be Eyre Sound, a regular cul-de-sac,
nor did we discover our error until we found
ourselves surrounded by ice, and unable to

28

SPOUTING ADVENTURES

proceed in any direction. A boat which we
sent away, to endeavour to ascertain where we
were, or if there was any place we could anchor
in, returned, stove in by the ice, so there was

AMONGST THE ICE IN EYRE SOUND.

nothing for it but to remain stationary for the
night, which we did, with the ice grinding
alongside us. The scene as day broke was
magnificent; on all sides were lofty snow-
clad mountains with several glaciers in sight,

IN THE PACIFIC. 29

but daylight showed us also where we were;
so letting fall our topsails we ran out of the
Sound as fast as steam and sail could carry us.

Our whole energies were now devoted to
steering clear of the drift ice, extra look-out
men were placed round the ship, the master
and myself being on the bridge ; notwithstand-
ing these precautions we ran into a mass of ice
which was level with the water, and could not
be seen until we were on the top of it. The
shock brought the ship up, all-standing, but
recovering herself with the previous momentum
she continued on her course, whilst a huge
piece of ice, with a cleft in it, showing where
the stem had struck, rolled by alongside.

The same evening we anchored in Eden
Harbour.

We remained in this beautiful and secure
harbour four days, cutting wood for steaming
purposes, our coal being nearly expended, and
filling up with water from a neighbouring
stream. An examination of the bows showed
that the stem had been smashed in by the ice,

30 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC!.

but as far as we could see no further damage
had been done. During our stay here we had
some sport, shooting ducks and geese, and
our seining party were also very successful.

Leaving Eden Harbour we passed through
the English narrows, one of the most beauti-
ful spots in Smyth's Channel, and anchored in
Connor Cove, which we found to be placed too
far north on the chart.

Like most of the harbours in the Straits,
Connor Cove has a river running into it at
the head; the stream ran so swiftly out
of this that it interfered considerably with
the ship answering her helm. We obtained
plenty of excellent wood here, and laid in a
supply which carried us on to Island Harbour,
a very secure anchorage, and the last port
visited before clearing Smyth's Channel, which
we did the following day.

CHAPTER III.

THESE can be no question that this channel is of
great benefit to men-of-war, whether outward
or homeward bound, especially to small and
handy ships, but for the long steamers trading
to the Pacific the advantage is very question-
able. The harbours are generally too small for
them to turn in, there is no anchorage in the
main channel, and it is not always safe to
proceed during the night, the tides are strong
and irregular; consequently, beyond securing
more comfort to the passengers, and a saving
in wear and -tear to the ship, they would gain
little ; on the other hand, they run considerable
risk, and probably lose time. In the Magellan
Straits there are no difficulties or dangers, and

32 SPORTING ADVENTURES

excepting at one or two places the channel is of
sufficient breadth to enable vessels to proceed
during the night.

The climate of the Straits is wretched;
although we were there in summer we had
constant gales, accompanied by snow, sleet, and
hail. The scenery, especially in Smyth' fa Channel,
is very fine.

On entering the Pacific we met with a heavy
gale, which detained us for three days in the
Gulf of Penas, but a slant of wind enabled us
to bear away for Valparaiso, where we arrived
six days afterwards. The town of Valparaiso
is built on the slope of a hill overlooking the
bay, the streets are clean and well laid out, and
there are some capital shops ; there is also a
good club, which is generally placed at the
disposal of naval officers. The port is about
the worst on the coast, and in the season for
Northers is altogether unsafe. Ships have to
anchor in from thirty to thirty-five fathoms of
water. There is no doubt but that the town
ought to have been built at Quintero, an

IN THE PACIFIC. 33

excellent harbour twenty miles to the north-
ward. Stores of all kinds can be procured at
Valparaiso, but the water is bad, and ships do
well not to water from the shore.

Santiago, the capital of Chili, is distant about
100 miles by rail from Valparaiso : it is supposed
to be a very beautiful city, but to my mind the
low, flat-roofed houses and dusty streets are
very uninviting.

On the 30th of December, 1871, having com-
pleted our coaling, refitting, &c., and repaired
our damaged bows as well as we could, we sailed
for Arica, where we arrived a few days after-
wards.

Arica is the principal seaport in the south of
Peru. It was once a pretty little town, with
an esplanade, shaded by an avenue of trees;
now it is a mass of ruins, with one solitary palm-
tree standing. This devastation was caused by
the terrible earthquake some years ago. There
were only two houses in existence at the time
of our visit, the Custom House, and that be-
longing to Mr. Nugent, the English Consul.

D

34 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Both of these had been rebuilt since the cata-
strophe. An American paddle-wheel steamer,
which was carried inland by the tidal wave at
the same time, and deposited unhurt half a
mile from the sea, still remained.

Certainly one must witness the awful effect
of an earthquake to be able to comprehend it.

It struck me as a singular coincidence that
the morning prayers for the day on which we
were at anchor off this place (viz. the 9th)
should be so remarkably appropriate to the
scene of desolation before us. See Psalm xlvi.
verses 1, 2, 3, and 8.

From Arica we continued our course down the
coast to Islay, a miserable place ; the anchorage
is safe, being protected from the swell by some
outlying rocks, and the wind never blows home.
A few miles to the southward of Islay is
Mollendo, the seaport of Arequipa, an open
roadstead exposed to wind and sea : there is a
mule track between the two places, and it is
proposed to connect them by a railroad, in which
case Islay will become . of more importance.

IN THE PACIFIC. 35

The railway between Arequipa and Mollendo is
the work of Mr. Henry Meiggs, the railway
king of Peru, and is among the most successful
of his operations ; it was commenced in 1868,
and completed in two years.

After a very short stay at Islay we proceeded
to the Chincha Islands, off which we stopped for
a few hours only, as there is no good anchorage.

These islands, once so celebrated for their
guano deposits, are now nearly exhausted ; the
late discoveries of enormous quantities of guano
on the mainland, as well as on the Guanape,
Lobas, and Macabe Islands, have somewhat
tended to raise the credit of Peru; and in
December, 1873, a commission was appointed to
inquire into the matter.

The result of their investigations, which were
subsequently verified by Captain Cookson, of
H.M.S. "Petrel," proved that the amount of
guano estimated to exist was nine millions of
tons, of the value of £55,000,000 ; the greater
portion of which was considered to be quite as
good as that of the Chincha Islands.

D 2

36 SPORTING ADVENTURES

From the Chinchas we went to Callao,
where we anchored on the 17th of January,
1872.

Callao, the seaport of Lima, is one of the
most important places on the Pacific coast ; it
is capable of accommodating a large number of
ships, and there is generally a considerable fleet
of shipping loading or discharging in the bay.
The harbour is perfectly sheltered by a long
spit, which runs out towards the island of
Lorenzo, forming a natural breakwater from the
heavy swell which breaks incessantly along the
shores. Some magnificent docks have lately
been constructed to facilitate the loading and
unloading of ships trading to the port; these
docks, which are justly considered the greatest
work of the kind in South America, were con-
structed by Mr. James Hodges, the eminent
engineer who built the Victoria Bridge over the
St. Lawrence. To give an idea of the magni-
tude of this undertaking, I have quoted the
following particulars from the South Pacific
Times, a most ably-conducted journal.

IN THE PACIFIC. 37

"Mr. James Hodges, representing the con-
tractors, Messrs. Brassey, arrived in Callao in
August, 1870, for the purpose of carrying out
the contract.

" Upon taking borings, it was found that the
foundations instead of being upon gravel, as
represented, were upon mud about twenty feet
deep ; in consequence of this it was necessary
to excavate the bed of the bay to the depth of
some sixteen feet. The space so excavated was
filled up with rubble, stone, and gravel up to
within twenty feet of low water mark, thus
forming an artificial foundation, upon which
the concrete blocks forming the dock walls
were built.

" The total length of these walls is 4520 feet ;
they enclose a space of nearly fifty-two acres, and
provide over 5300 feet of berthing accommoda-
tion, sufficient for twenty-five to thirty large
ships. In addition to the dock a long sea-wall
was built, which reclaimed from the shallow
waters of the bay about thirteen acres. This
space has been drained, formed into streets, and

38 SPORTING ADVENTURES

paved, and it is intended to erect upon it
bonded warehouses and stores.

" 34,000 concrete blocks, each of which
weighed ten tons, were used in the construction
of the dock, and the water space enclosed is of
the depth of twenty-six feet at low water.

" A parapet wall surrounds the whole of the
works on the sea side, and the accommodation
has been rendered as complete as upon works of
a similar character in any part of the world."

Callao is a dirty town, and entirely destitute
of any system of sewerage, in consequence of
which one is often assailed with the foulest
odours on landing.

On board ship, even whilst laying at anchor
in the bay, one is not altogether free from un-
pleasant smells, though from a different cause.
There is a phenomenon called the " Painter,5*
known only at Callao and one or two of the
neighbouring ports, caused by the escape of
sulphuretted hydrogen gas from the bottom of
the sea, which taints the air, and covers every-
thing with a chocolate-coloured slime ; the water

IN THE PACIFIC. 39

at the time becomes of a reddish colour : it is
said to be not unhealthy. The town is very
strongly fortified, many of the forts being armed
with 500 Ib. Rodman, and 300 Ib. Armstrong
guns, and the Peruvian fleet is also provided
with the latter weapon.

Lima, the capital of Peru, is a fine old town,
situated on the river Rimac. Many of the houses
are very handsome ; they are not generally lofty,
on account of the earthquakes, but cover a great
deal of ground. The cathedral is a noble pile,
and the new Exhibition building is also a very
beautiful structure.

The remains of Pizarro, the conqueror of
Peru, and the founder of the city, are said to be
preserved in the cathedral. A sceptical in-
dividual, on being shown the skull of the con-
queror, remarked that he had seen it before at
another place ; but the priest who was exhibiting
the relic observed that that must have been his
skull when he was a boy, but that this was
when he was grown up.

Lima is connected by railway with Callao, its

40 SPORTING ADVENTURES

sea-port, also with Chorillous, a popular
watering-place, and with Ancon and Chancay,
two small ports to the northward; a line to
Pisco, 145 miles to the southward, is also
projected.

The greatest undertaking of this kind is the
Oroya railway, across the Andes ; it is not too
much to say that this is the most wonderful
railway in the world.

Starting from Callao, the line follows the
course of the Bimac valley, rising gradually
until at St. Bartoleme, forty-seven miles, it
attains a height of nearly 5000 feet. From
thence, winding among the gorges and precipices
of the mountains, it spans a chasm at Yerrugas,
by a bridge 700 feet long, the height of the
bridge above the water way being 300 feet, after
which, piercing the Andes at the enormous
altitude of 15,645 feet, the line descends to
Oroya the terminus, 12,178 feet above the level
of the sea.

This great work is justly considered Mr.
Meigg's chef-d'oeuvre ; the object of the rail-

IN THE PACIFIC. 41

way is to open up the country north of Oroya,
a region abounding in mineral wealth, and to
connect the head- waters of the Amazon river
with the Pacific Ocean.

CHAPTER IV.

WE had been but a few days at Callao, during
which time a happy couple had been united in
marriage on board the " Reindeer," when a tele-
gram reached us from the Admiralty, ordering
me to proceed in the "Reindeer" to Rio de
Janeiro, with the marines implicated in the late
affair there. This took us all by surprise, as
we thought we had heard the last of that
business ; however, the telegram admitted of no
question or delay, and the next day but one
saw us off on our long cruise.

Passing through the Boqueron Channel, which
separates the Island of Lorenzo from the main-
land, we anchored the next morning at Pisco ;
this place is celebrated for its wine, a kind of

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC. 43

light sherry, and for a fiery spirit which is
manufactured there in large quantities, and is
much approved of by the Peruvians.

The same evening the captain of the port
and another gentleman were coming to dine
with me, and happening to meet them on shore
I offered them a passage off to the ship in my
gig, when to my surprise a third guest, a self-
invited one, also made his appearance, evidently
intending to do me the honour of dining with
me. I was not then aware of the custom of the
country for guests to bring their friends with
them ; however, an accident relieved me of my
superfluous acquaintance, for in stepping into
the boat he slipped and fell overboard ; he was
quickly seized and dragged into the boat, but
not before he had had a good ducking, and had
shipped a cargo of salt water, so he had to go
home to change, and I saw no more of him.

We left Pisco the next morning, and stood
out to the westward to catch the south-east
trade.

A more desolate region can hardly exist than

44 SPORTING ADVENTURES

that portion of the Pacific westward of the
coasts of Chili or Peru ; once out of the track of
ships, all signs of life vanish, rarely is a sail
sighted, and for weeks together not a fish or a
bird are to be seen; and it is only when
approaching the land again that the latter
reappear, as though to welcome one to their
habitations.

On the evening of the 15th of February we
passed close to Mas-a-fuera, a desolate and
uninhabited island, and at daylight the following
morning the rugged and fantastic peaks of Juan
Fernandez were in sight.

The appearance of this celebrated island is
extremely picturesque ; lofty mountains tower
up in every variety of form; on a closer
inspection these are seen to be thickly wooded
to their summits, while lovely glens, lay
embosomed at their feet.

On the southern or weathermost side of the
island the land slopes gradually to the sea ; on
the northern side the precipices in some places go
sheer down many hundreds of feet to the beach.

IN THE PACIFIC. 45

The anchorage, called Cumberland Bay, but
in reality a mere indenture in the coast, is on
this side, and here we found H.M.S. " Scylla "
at anchor. From Captain Boxer, who com-
manded her, we learnt that our orders to pro-
ceed to Rio had been countermanded. "We heard
from the officers of the " Scylla " that there was
first-rate sea-fishing to be had, but that on the
island the goats, though numerous, were very
wild and difficult to approach. Having a few
hours to spare the afternoon of our arrival, I
started in the gig in search of them. Following
the coast-line to the eastward, we had not gone
above a couple of miles before we saw some
goats feeding in a hollow with precipices on all
sides, so that it seemed wonderful how they
ever got there, and difficult for them to escape.
They appeared not to notice the boat, and
allowed us to approach to about 100 yards,
when a ball from my gun rolled one over : the
others bolted in different directions, but not
before a second had shared the fate of its mate,
and came tumbling down the rocks with a ball

46 SPORTING ADVENTURES

through the shoulder. Firing at a third we
noticed it to stop suddenly, turn round and
bound along at an incredible rate, considering
the nature of the ground ; having secured the
two dead goats we followed as fast as possible
in the direction of the third, which we thought
was wounded. After scrambling along the
beach, climbing huge boulders and seeing nothing
of it, we concluded that it must have escaped,
when we came upon the animal lying down,
with the blood streaming from a wound in the
head. It sprung up and bolted, giving me only
a stern shot with apparently no result ; however
by following it up we at length caught and
despatched it. The first ball had cut a deep
groove across the forehead, and the other had
raked it lengthways, or, as we say, " Fore and
aft." "The vitality of these animals is extra-
ordinary, and I can quite credit what I heard
of one having nearly escaped with seven rifle-
balls in his body.

The next morning I started up the mountains
on foot, accompanied by one of the officers and

IN THE PACIFIC. 47

my coxswain and steward, in hopes of getting an
old billy goat. We had seen some fine specimens
the previous evening, standing on the very
brink of the precipice, many hundred feet above
us and watching us with much curiosity ; some
of these must have been regular patriarchs,
judging by their long grey beards and fine
horns.

"We had not gone far before we heard the
most frightful yells and shouts for assistance ;
on going back we found my steward hanging
over a precipice, and nearly exhausted. Having
relieved him from his unpleasant position, we
climbed up the mountain, and in about forty-
five minutes had the satisfaction of reaching
the top.

From this elevation we had a fine panoramic
view of the whole island, with its hills and
valleys spread out at our feet : far below us the
two ships lay peacefully at their anchors in the
bay, looking like toy boats floating in a pond.

With our glasses we could see some goats
feeding on the opposite side of a ravine, so

48 SPORTING ADVENTURES

having recovered our wind we started in pursuit.
It took us nearly an hour to cross the ravine
and climb the opposite side, but when we
reached the spot where the goats had been
feeding they were no longer in sight; these
animals being gifted with an acute sense of
smell and vision, had probably either seen or
winded us, and taking the hint had decamped.

My coxswain now joined us from reconnoiter-
ing a neighbouring height, with the report that
a herd of goats were feeding not far off, and
they "look as big as donkeys," he added.
Cautiously following in that direction we soon
spied the herd, which certainly were as big as
donkeys, being no other than those noble
animals, a few of which run wild on the island.
As there were no goats .in sight we amused
ourselves stalking the donkeys for practice ; we
got close up to them unobserved, and having
watched them for some time, fired a shot over
their heads, when they scampered down the
valley.

Soon afterwards my steward, whilst lighting

IN THE PACIFIC. 49

his pipe, accidentally sefc fire to the dry grass ;
in a moment the whole place was in a blaze,
and the flames spread so rapidly that we had to
hasten down the valley and take refuge in a
wood. Upon emerging from this wood on the
opposite side from which the flames were
approaching, we caught sight of a small herd
of goats, led by one fine old ram ; they galloped
off on seeing us, and made towards the cliffs,
where they have paths where no man could
follow them.

By running to cut them off I reached the
edge of the cliff just in time to see the old
fellow leading his flock along a narrow path
below me : a lucky snap shot sent a ball through
his head, and tumbled him over the precipice
to the beach, many hundred feet below. We
were unable to see the spot where he had fallen,
but some of our people were fishing not far from
the place, and hearing the shot, and seeing
what had happened, they landed and secured the
goat. He proved to be a fine old fellow with
grey beard and long horns, which latter, strange

50 SPOTTING ADVENTURES

to say, were not damaged, although every bone
in his body was broken. Meanwhile the fire
had extended down the mountain side, crossed
the valley and swept over an extent of ground
fully a mile square, destroying everything in its
course, and making an awful noise : the path
by which we had ascended in the morning was
intercepted by the flames, and we had to find
our way down by another way. In the evening
two officers returned from a hunting expedition ;
they had ridden many miles beyond where we
had been, and had killed three fine old rams,
with which they were returning, when they were
horrified to find their retreat cut off by the fire.
The path was completely obliterated, and it was
getting dark and almost impossible for them to
find their way, when most fortunately they hit
upon a trail which brought them to the settle-
ment.

The following day we made an expedition to
the top of a hill, called Selkirk's look-out, where
Alexander Selkirk used regularly to watch for
passing vessels. A sharp climb took us to the

IN THE PACIFIC. 51

top, from whence we had a glorious view of
both sides of the island and of the adjacent
island of Santa Clara.

The man in charge of the settlement told us
that there were nearly 1000 goats on Santa
Clara, that there was no water on the island,
and that the goats came down to the beach and
drank the salt water. I suspect, however, that
they find sufficient for their wants in the dew,
and such water as may collect in the hollows of
the rocks during the rainy season. On our
return to the settlement the overseer, a Chileno,
complained that the fire had burnt a quantity of
stacked wood, and destroyed property to the
amount of several thousand dollars.

This we knew could not be the case, as we
had seen this wood and knew that the fire had
not gone within a mile of it ; however, Captain
Boxer wisely decided to see the extent of the
damage for himself.

The next morning, taking the Chileno (native
of Chili) as a guide, we rode all over the ground
which had been traversed by the fire, the stacked

E 2

52 SPOUTING ADVENTUEES

wood had not been touched, and the man was
obliged to admit that no damage had been done,
in fact the dry grass and underwood only had
been burnt, which would improve the crops for
another year.

The man seemed satisfied, and we dismissed
him with a few trifling presents. It was most
fortunate that we took the precaution of per-
sonally investigating the matter, as otherwise
heavy damages might have been obtained, for
on the departure of the " Reindeer " for Val-
paraiso, this same rascal asked if two of his men
might be given a passage to that port. The
request was readily granted, and the men were
fed, taken care of, and in due time landed ; they
proved to be the bearers of letters to their
master, Senor Lopes, who forthwith brought a
claim against us for damages done to the island,
which he rents from the Chilian government.

I attended at the English Consulate at Val-
paraiso on several occasions, on purpose to meet
Mr. Lopes by appointment; he, however, found
it, more convenient not to appear, but on the

IN THE PACIFIC. 53

departure of the ship he inundated our worthy
consul, Mr. Drummond Hay, with a voluminous
correspondence on the subject, the result of
which I apprehend has been rather to fill the
consular waste-paper basket than his own
pockets.

The morning of our departure from Juan
Fernandez we paid a visit to Selkirk's cave,
about three miles south-west from the anchorage,
where we found much to interest us : the place
bore unmistakeable traces of having been in-
habited for some time, and there is no doubt
that Selkirk lived there during his residence on
the island.

As his story may not be familiar to all, I will
repeat it : —

In the year 1709 Captain Eogers touched at
the island, and found Alexander Selkirk living
on it, having been landed upwards of four years
before from the ship " Cinque Ports :" curiously
enough Dampier was both in that ship and in
the one which afterwards took him off. Selkirk
subsequently related his adventures to Defoe,

54 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

who from them framed the romance of Robinson
Crusoe.

Juan Fernandez is one of the most beautiful
islands in the Pacific : it was discovered by a
Spaniard of that name in the year 1563, and
the goats which abound in such numbers were
then introduced. The island was afterwards
used by Lord Anson to recruit his scurvy-
stricken crew, and subsequently as a convict
settlement by the Chilian government. A
few people only live there now to look after
the interests of Senor Lopes, and to supply
the whalers, which occasionally call, with water
and provisions.

The climate is delightful, though somewhat
moist, and owing to the high land very heavy
squalls are of common occurrence ; the anchor-
age is safe except during the season for Northers
at Valparaiso, and ships lie within a cable's
length of the beach.

There is first-rate sea-fishing in the bay and
neighbourhood, and any quantity of cray-fish
can be caught. On shore there are many kinds

IN THE PACIFIC. 55

of wild fruit-trees, ferns, and wild flowers, and
quiet dells, the haunt of the humming-bird and
the turtle-dove.

Altogether it is a delightful and romantic
island, and it was with much regret that we
took our departure.

The distance from the island to Valparaiso is
360 miles, which may be done in thirty- six hours,
as the wind blows pretty regularly from the
south-west, a fair wind for that port. We were
not so fortunate, however, as it happened to be
the season for light and variable winds. Two
days before we reached our destination, we
sighted the range of the Andes at the amazing
distance of 180 miles. This seems incredible,
but is not so astonishing when the height of the
mountains, some of them over 20,000 feet, and
the clearness of the atmosphere are considered.
The sun rising behind the range afforded us
this splendid sight, but, as the orb rose higher
in the heavens, it gradually faded from our
view.

We arrived at Valparaiso on the 24th of

56 SPORTING ADVENTURES

February, in time for the shooting season, which
opens on the 1st of March, corresponding with
the 1st of September at home. Few sportsmen
go out till after the rains, as the heat is very
great, and there is no scent or water for the
dogs ; but naval officers cannot afford to be so
particular, and must take their chance when it
comes, provided of course that it is the proper
season.

On the 2nd of March I took the train to
Llaillai, about half way to Santiago, accom-
panied by 0 , one of oar officers, and a

first-rate shot and sportsman.

Putting up at the hotel for the night, we
started the next day at daylight, and worked
round some neighbouring hills ; it was pleasant
enough till about nine o'clock, when the heat
became terrible; however, by working hard we
made a fair bag, and returned to the hotel at
dark, with fourteen brace of partridges and a
few pigeons. These partridges are fine birds,
they look larger than our English ones, but are
not so in reality. I weighed several, and found

IN THE PACIFIC. 57

them to average one pound each, which cor-
responds with our birds ; they have little or no
tail, their beaks are longer than the English
bird, and they are difficult to flush without a
dog, preferring to run; and when they rise
they generally do so singly, presenting an easy
shot. We met with the greatest civility from
the native proprietors on whose land we were
shooting, especially when they found we were
English naval officers shooting for sport and not
for the pot.

On the 4th of March we sailed for Quintero,
where the "Scylla" was refitting; the dis-
tance is twenty miles, which we accomplished
in a couple of hours under sail, and after a
short stay there returned to Valparaiso for
a ball given by the merchants to the In-
tendente.

During the remainder of our stay at Val-
paraiso I made several shooting expeditions to
Llaillai and other places, invariably meeting
with civility from the hospitable Chilenos, and
making fair bags considering the season, and

58 SPORTING ADVENTURES

that I had no dogs. The shooting is, I believe,
much better when the weather gets cooler, and
the bag is more varied, as wild geese, ducks,
snipes, &c., arrive in the country.

Our stay in Chilian waters was the more
agreeable from the kindness and attention we
received from the officers of the United States
ship " California," a fine frigate, bearing the
flag of Admiral Winslow of " Kearsage "
renown: the gallant Admiral was accompanied
by his wife and daughter.

We sailed from Valparaiso on the 30th of
March, and touching at Islay anchored once
more in Callao harbour on the 10th of April,
whither the " California " followed us in a few
days. Going on board to pay my respects to
Admiral Winslow, the flag captain received me
at the gangway, at the same time offering to
relieve me of my sword as the weather was
rather hot. I handed it to him, when he re-
marked in fun that it was the first time an
English officer's sword had been delivered up to
him. I turned the joke against him, however,

IN THE PACIFIC. 59

soon afterwards, for going ashore together in
the " California's " boat we had occasion to go
under an arch which would have broken the
ensign staff had I not unshipped it, and turning
to the captain remarked, " and this is the first
time I have had the honour of hauling down the
American flag." A few days after this we sailed
for Changay, to recover a boat which had been
stolen from H.M.S. "Fawn:" Dr. Hutchinson,
H.B.M. Consul, accompanied me. We reached
Ancon the same evening, and having paid
our respects to President Balta, who hap-
pened to be staying there, we went on to
Changay. This place is a very bad anchorage;
so having recovered the boat, we returned to
Ancon, and remained there a few days to give
our men a run on shore.

Ancon is a very snug little harbour, and the
beach is well adapted for hauling the seine ; we
also had some good sea fishing with rod and line,
the bonita and albacore giving as much sport as
a salmon. There is a little shooting at a marsh
between Ancon and Callao, but the ducks are

60 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

wild from being constantly disturbed by pro-
fessional sportsmen. Returning to Callao to
meet the mail, we sailed again to visit some
small ports to the northward, and after a
pleasant run down the coast anchored at
Huacho, a wretched place and a bad anchorage.
There is some sport to be got at a place called
San Lorenzo; but the best shooting is at a
lagoon about fifteen miles from the port.

I rode over to this place accompanied by two
of the officers, and guided by a native; there
were plenty of ducks in the lagoon, but it seemed
impossible to get at them, owing to the immense
height of the reeds, which were from fifteen to
twenty feet high. It seemed as though we
should return empty-handed ; we could see the
ducks swimming about in open spaces in the
middle, out of reach of our guns : at length we
nit upon a plan which succeeded. Cutting
down several bundles of reeds we made them
into a couple of rafts, or bolsas as they are
called, and sitting astride of them, one on each,
we paddled out into deep water and had some

IN THE PACIFIC. 61

very pretty shooting, as the ducks and teal kept
flying overhead. In this way we made a very
fair bag, and lost as many more, which fell into
the rushes, and could not be retrieved. For
this style of shooting a breech-loader is in-
dispensable, and my companion who had only
a muzzle-loader was soon placed liors de combat
On our way back we killed some doves whicli
abounded in the neighbourhood, and also several
couple of jack-snipe ; so numerous were the
latter that we bagged fourteen out of a wisp of
them, with four barrels. Our birds proved
most acceptable, for on our return to Huacho,
we found that heavy rollers had set in, render-
ing communication with the ship impossible ;
and we were detained on shore for two days
until the sea subsided. The hotel where we
put up was totally unprovided with food, so we
set to work, plucked and cooked our game and
made an excellent pie.

The native boatmen refused to go off for
love or money; my gig was capsized in the
surf and lost her anchor, which was recovered

62 SPORTING ADVENTURES

covered by one of the boatmen ; the man, how-
ever, refused to give it up, except for more
money than it was worth, but the captain of the
port gave him a sound flogging instead, and
returned the anchor.

On May the 12th we sailed for Supe, where
we arrived the same day; to all appearance both
this port and Huacho are perfectly safe, and in
fine weather they are so, but the anchorages are
open, the ground foul, and rollers set in without
the slightest warning or apparent cause; the
wind has nothing whatever to do with it, but
we noticed that the rollers were more likely to
appear at full and change of the moon.

At such times it is better for ships to avoid
these ports, or, if they be in them, to have steam
handy, and put to sea at the first warning. On
these occasions a very heavy sea rolls in, and
the mail steamers remain outside, communication
being kept up by surf boats or bolsas, which
cannot well be capsized ; even then accidents
sometimes occur. At Supe the shooting is
excellent ; there is a large marsh quite close to

IN THE PACIFIC. 63

the anchorage, in which, during one day and
part of another, I bagged thirty-six ducks and
teal, besides several kinds of waders. It is very
hard work, and there are some dangerous holes
in the swamp, in one of which my coxswain
nearly disappeared ; I was unable to go to his
assistance at the moment, from being in the
same predicament myself.

The land near Supe belongs to a wealthy
Peruvian gentleman, Don Domingo Loas, who
sent us a most cordial invitation to breakfast at
his hacienda. We afterwards visited his sugar
and cotton factories, which are worked entirely
by Chinese coolies, many hundreds of whom are
employed on the estate. Much has been said
and written about the atrocities of the coolie
traffic from Macao to Peru ; doubtless there is
some truth in it, and also a great deal of exag-
geration. The condition of the coolie depends
very much into whose hands he may fall on his
arrival ; in some cases I fear they are badly
treated, but in general I believe they are as well
off: or better than in their own country. It is

64 SPORTING ADVENTURES

well known that the men who are brought over
are selected from the lowest class, they are no
better than slaves in China ; whereas in Peru
many of them become domestic servants, and in
some cases they have acquired considerable
wealth, and are doing business on their own
account.

It is necessary for Peru, which is very thinly
populated, to seek elsewhere for labour, and
China, with its superabundant population, is
naturally the country to apply to ; but there is
no reason why these emigrants should not be
brought over of their own free will, and not
smuggled as they undoubtedly sometimes are.
As for the horrors of the " slave-ship, " I fancy
they have been very much overstated. During
our stay at Callao several of these coolie ships
arrived, and I went on board one of them, a
beautiful clipper called the " Camilla Cavour,"
on her arrival with a cargo of coolies from
Macao, ostensibly to buy cigars, but in reality
to judge for myself on this subject. The captain,
who was justly proud of his craft, showed me all

IN THE PACIFIC. 65

over the ship. She was beautifully clean, and
the coolies seemed happy and contented, laugh-
ing and talking amongst themselves, not at all
as though they had been smuggled on board or
forced from their homes ; only one death had
occurred on the passage.

No doubt the late mission to China with
especial reference to this traffic will be of great
benefit, both to Peru and to the Chinese emi-
grant : the object of the treaty which has been
concluded is : —

"Firstly, that the emigrants should leave
China direct for Peru, instead of by way of
Macao, as heretofore."

" Secondly, that they should leave of their
own free will, so that they may dispose of their
services as they please," and,

" Lastly, that they should leave with the full
sanction of their Government, so that they may
count on its protection."

To insure the first of these objects the
Peruvian Government has offered to subsidize
and support any steam-ship company which will

66 SPORTING ADVENTURES

organize and establish a direct line of steamers
between China and Peru.

On the 24th of May we gave a ball on board
the "Reindeer" in honour of Her Majesty's
birthday : the ship was gaily dressed for the
occasion, all the elite of Lima and Oallao were
present, and dancing was kept up for several
hours, the fine band of the Peruvian ironclad
" Independencia " being lent for the occasion.

In the midst of the festivities, the American
surveying vessel " Hassler " arrived, having on
board the illustrious Professor Agassiz.

On the 28th Mr. Meiggs invited the professor
to an excursion up the Oroya railway, and a
party of ladies and gentlemen were included in
the invitation. A special train, consisting of
two saloon carriages and a refreshment car, was
provided for the occasion. Starting from Lima
at nine a.m. we arrived at St. Bartoleme in
about two hours, where we stopped for luncheon.
After due justice had been done to a magnificent
repast we proceeded about two miles further to
Surco, a part of the line which had never been

IN THE PACIFIC. 67

traversed before, and where we attained an
elevation of 5350 feet, or more than a mile high.
After a short stay here we returned to Lima,
much pleased with our excursion and the libe-
rality of our host. The scenery throughout was
of the grandest description.

A few days afterwards a party of us met on
board the " Hassler," at the invitation of
Monsieur Agassiz, for a trip to Ancon, and
whilst there an expedition was made to some
neighbouring huacos, or Indian burial-grounds ;
some hundreds of skulls were collected,
and brought on board for transmission to
a college in America. These relics may pos-
sibly prove of much interest to the distinguished
members of the Anthropological Society, but to
me it seemed a ghastly and disgusting cargo.

The "Hassler" was to leave for the north
the next day, and the professor was desirous of
procuring a kind of fish called the pec-a-rey,
found only in the Bimac river ; so I undertook
to obtain some for him. Taking our seine and
a party of men, I landed at daylight and had

F 2

C)8 SPORTING ADVENTURES

two or three hauls in the river, securing some
fine specimens, with which one of the men was
returning to Callao, when he was met by Doctor

B, , a keen fisherman. The doctor's disgust

may be well imagined when he saw the fish; and
heard that we had been dragging some of his
favourite pools, nor was he pacified when told
that it was in the cause of science. The worthy
professor's delight at his prize was worth any-
thing, and as the doctor and I had many a day's
fishing together in the river afterwards, I do
not think the netting did much damage.

The pec-a-rey, though a voracious fish, will
not take a fly : they take a bait readily, also the
artificial minnow. There are myriads of tiny
fish in the Rimac which take a fly as fast as
you can throw it, and these little fellows make
an excellent bait for the pec-a-rey. On one
occasion we took seven brace one evening ; they
average about three quarters of a pound, and run
up to one pound and a half, and are game fish,
giving good sport, but are not much good for
the table.

IN THE PACIFIC. 69

The neighbourhood of the Eimac is not
considered altogether safe, and people have
been robbed and occasionally murdered there ;
so it is as well to carry a revolver with one.
There is little or no shooting in the immediate
neighbourhood of Callao; there is a likely-
looking swamp near Chorillons, but it is so
much shot over by professionals as to be not
worth visiting.

During our stay at Callao, the president,
Balta, paid a visit to the " Reindeer/ ' and was
received with the honours due to his rank,
including a salute of twenty-one guns. This
visit was regarded as a special compliment, as
it is not customary for one of his Excellency's
position to visit a ship of the "Reindeer's" size.
It was also of especial interest, as it proved to
be the last time the president was destined
to go afloat. Our time, meanwhile, passed
pleasantly by, enjoying the hospitality of our
friends on shore; dances, dinner parties, and
picnics succeeded each other, varied occasionally
by the attractions of the opera or bull-fight,

70 SPORTING ADVENTURES

according to taste ; when our gaieties were cut
short by an order from Admiral Farquhar to
meet him at Arica on the 20th of June.

Leaving Callao on the 10th we reached our
rendezvous on the 19th, and on the 22nd the
Admiral arrived in the mail steamer, and shifted
his flag to the " Reindeer."

The next day I accompanied him to Tacna,
where we were hospitably entertained, and
passed three days very pleasantly, when we
returned to the ship, and proceeded in her to
Islay. Whilst there a party of us rode over to
Mollendo, a miserable place with a very pre-
tentious railway station, the terminus of the
Arequipa railroad. Several fine clipper ships
were at anchor in the roads ; one of them, the
" Champion of the Seas," was bound for Callao,
and as we were also going there we looked
forward to a race with this celebrated ship.

"We left Islay the next afternoon, and the
" Champion " sailed about the same time from
Mollendo ; at eight p.m. we were bowling off
twelve knots an hour under every stitch of

IN THE 'PACIFIC 71

canvas, and by noon the following day we had
scored 252 miles since three p.m. the day before :
the clipper was nowhere in sight. Our prospects
of making a quick run were, however, ruined
by the wind falling light, and the morning of
the 5th July we were becalmed within sight of
our port. Whilst steaming up for the anchorage
we observed an American barque drifting into
Chorillons Bay and showing signals of distress ;
so taking her in tow we gave her an offing, and
running through the Boqueron Channel reached
Callao soon after dark.

The " Champion " came in the next morning,
and her skipper was not a little disappointed to
find us in before him, though, of course, it was
not a fair beating.

The American barque which we had assisted
also arrived, and her captain came on board to
thank us. The poor fellow was greatly relieved,
and somewhat surprised to find that there was
nothing to pay.

The admiral took up his quarters at the
house of Mr. Petrie, the manager of the Pacific

72 SPOET1NG ADVENTURES

Steam Navigation Company, and the next few
days were devoted to festivities, all Callao being
desirous of doing honour to our popular Com-
mander-in- Chief.

On the 18th of July the admiral and his
secretary embarked on board the mail steamer
" Araucania," one of the magnificent fleet
belonging to the Pacific Steam Navigation
Company, to rejoin his flag-ship at Coquimbo.
The estimation in which he was held by the
residents in Callao may be gathered from the
following extract from the South Pacific Times : —

"From our harbour, in the P.S.N. Co. ship
Araucania/ on the 18th inst., departed one,
who has during a short official visit contrived
by means innate to himself to leave an impression
not easily eradicated from the minds of all who
have had the good fortune to call upon or be
presented to the British Commander-in- Chief.
If kindness of heart, amiability, intellect, and
the social requirements of a gentleman, coupling
the suaviter in modo with the fortiter in re, as
especial qualifications for an officer of responsi-

IN THE PACIFIC. 73

bility, ever existed in one individual, they are to
be found in Admiral Farquliar. During his
short stay in his temporary flag-ship the
' Reindeer,' he has endeared himself to the
circles amongst whom he moved, and the just
appreciation of the representative of the greatest
naval power has been evidenced by the way in
which all who had an opportunity feted him.

" On the e Araucania ' passing the ( Reindeer,'
the gallant tars of that vessel manned the
rigging and cheered as lustily as Jack knows
how to cheer."

On the 22nd of July, 1872, or four days after
the Admiral's departure, the most disastrous
and bloody revolution ever witnessed in Peru
broke forth without the slightest warning. I
was on the point of stepping into the train
for Lima that evening, but seeing the people
running to and fro, and shops hurriedly closed,
I thought it better to remain and allow the train
to go without me.

Rumours soon reached us that a revolution
had broken out in Lima, and that President

74 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Balta Lad been thrown into prison, This
turned out to be true, the principals engaged in
the transaction being General Tomas Gutierrez
and his two brothers, Silvestre and Marceliano ;
the former issued three bombastic proclamations,
to the citizens, the army, and the navy, calling
upon them to support him, and proclaiming
himself " Dictator " and supreme chief of the
republic. The meeting of Congress had already
taken place, when, in consequence of these
events, the House of Deputies drew up a protest
condemning the action of Gutierrez, and declar-
ing him and his accomplices out of the pale of
the law.

In Callao the naval commanders met together
and unanimously resolved to ignore the Dictator
and his Government; the immediate result of
their consultation being that the Peruvian fleet,
consisting of the " Independencia " and " Huas-
car," ironclads, the " Apurimac," wooden steam
frigate, and the " Chalaca," paddle-wheel
steamer, left their moorings in the bay during
the night of the 22nd of July, and anchored off

IN THE PACIFIC. 75

San Lorenzo, out of reach of the batteries at
Callao. By tins loyal and energetic behaviour
Gutierrez -was deprived of an arm he greatly
relied on; the " Independencia " the next day
proceeded to Chilca, a small port to the south-
ward of Callao, where she embarked Senor Don
Manuel Par do, the popular civil candidate for
the presidency. One of the first acts of
Gutierrez had been to order the arrest of
Pardo, but he escaping from Lima made his
way across country disguised as a car-driver,
and reached the coast in safety.

Gutierrez, having secured the person of the
president, endeavoured to induce many of the
principal officers of the army to recognize him
as their future chief, but to their credit they one
and all declined to do so, preferring to resign
their commissions instead. In Callao everything
remained quiet up to this time, although the
shops were closed and business was completely
suspended. The Prefect, Don Pedro Balta,
brother of the president, gave up his command,
and the soldiers usually quartered at Callao

76 SPORTING ADVENTURES

were exchanged for others sent down from Li
under the command of Silvestre Gutierrez ; but
many of these men, who only wanted the oppor-
tunity to join the cause of the people who were
opposed to the usurper, deserted during the
night of the 23rd.

A few stray shots were fired in the streets of
Callao the same night. The captain of the
port and other officials now sent in their resign-
ations, which did not tend to allay the excite-
ment ; and the foreign merchants consequently
formed themselves into a guard for the pro-
tection of their property. At this time I
thought it advisable to offer H.M.S. " Reindeer "
as a refuge for any who might wish to seek the
protection of the British flag. In consequence
of this many people came on board, amongst
them Colonel F. Balta, another brother of the
president, who arrived on the morning of the
revolution in the mail steamer " Limefia."

Gutierrez being in want of funds to pay his
soldiers seized whatever money happened to be
in the Mint, and also threatened several Bank

IN THE PACIFIC. 77

managers with imprisonment unless they ad-
vanced him what money he required. An arrange-
ment was therefore made by which the Banks
agreed to furnish a loan of $300,000, the first
instalment of $1 50,000 being paid down ; the ba-
lance, owingto subsequent events, was never paid.
On the evening of the 24th of July sharp
firing commenced in Lima and in Callao, the
soldiers shooting indiscriminately at all they
saw. The inhabitants, arming themselves with
muskets, cutlasses, and pikes, resisted the
soldiers as well as their limited means would
allow ; the fighting continued all night, several
being killed on both sides. On the 25th the
city of Lima was placed under martial law, the
rails between it and Callao were torn up, the
telegraph wires cut, and communication between
the two places became impossible. The same
night there was heavy firing in Callao, some of
the forts being taken by the soldiers and re-
taken by the people ; the civic guard, composed
mostly of English gentlemen, behaved with great
courage and moderation.

78 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Many of the soldiers having deserted during
the night of the 25th, on the following morning
Silvestre Gutierrez rode back to Lima for rein-
forcements, leaving orders to his men to shoot
every man, woman, or child they might see ;
and assuring them that he would return in a few
hours, and burn the town of Callao.

He was, however, destined never to return,
for whilst at the railway station at Lima he was
fired at by the people and killed.

His brother Marceliano, hearing of this
occurrence, determined to wreak his vengeance
upon the unfortunate president, and calling the
officer of the guard, they proceeded to the prison
where Balta was confined. Marceliano accused
him of being the cause of his brother's death, and
fired his revolver at him as he lay upon his
couch ; the officer of the guard followed his
example, and the soldiers completed the work
with their bayonets.

Having perpetrated this atrocious murder,
Marceliano escorted by a body of soldiers re-
turned to Callao, telling his men that they

IN THE PACIFIC. 79

should have one hour for cutting throats, and
two more for sacking the town.

Most providentially this bloodthirsty villain
never lived to carry out his threat, for the same
evening, whilst pointing a 300 Pr gun for the
destruction of the town, he was killed by a rifle-
shot, and soon afterwards the fort fell into the
hands of the people.

Whilst these events were taking place we
were not altogether idle spectators on board
the " Reindeer."

On the evening of the 25th a deputation of
gentlemen waited upon me on behalf of the
English residents of Callao ; they said that all
authority and order were at an end, and that the
town was at the mercy of an armed and lawless
mob, and they requested me to protect them in
their difficulties. It was not in my power to
assist them to the extent I should have wished
without compromising myself, but to give them
a feeling of security I landed a few picked men
after dark, and distributed them in the houses
of the principal residents. These men were

80 SPORTING ADVENTUKES

armed with revolvers only, and were supplied
with signal rockets to keep up the communi-
cation with the ship ; their instructions were to
confine themselves strictly to the protection of
the houses in which they were lodged, and not
to interfere in any way with the contending
parties.

On the following morning I landed to see how
things were going on, and also, if necessary, to
escort any who might be desirous of coming on
board to the ship. My coxswain accompanied
me, carrying the boat's white ensign to show
that we were on a peaceful mission. The streets
seemed quite deserted, and we traversed them
without molestation, until after visiting several
houses we reached that of Mr. Grace. This
house from being in a very exposed position had
been frequently struck with rifle balls, which had
pierced the walls in several places : and the guns
from the castle, only a few hundred yards dis-
tant, were also directed towards it. The ladies
of the party were naturally much alarmed, and
were desirous of going on board ship ; but while

IN THE PACIFIC. 8L

the necessary preparations were being made
for their departure sharp firing recommenced
between the contending parties, the street in
front of the house was raked with rifle shots,
several of which also came through the walls and
dropped into the rooms, and it became impossible
to leave the house. In that country the houses
are built of very light materials in consequence of
earthquakes, and the walls offer no resistance to
a rifle ball. We therefore placed the ladies in an
inner room for extra security, until a temporary
lull in the firing enabled us to sally forth ; when
with our colours flying we at length reached the
boat, and were soon safely on board.

It was fortunate that we left the house when
we did, for on our return, at the restoration of
peace, we found that a shell had pierced three
of the walls, and had lodged in the very room
where the ladies had been sitting.

By the death of Marceliano the safety of
Callao was insured, and order was soon re-
established. At the same time the news of the
death of Tomas Gutierrez was received in Callao

G

82 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

with much rejoicing; the dictator, deserted by his
soldiers, retreated to the fort of Santa Catalina,
but being attacked there he endeavoured to
escape in private clothes : he was speedily
recognized, dragged from a shop where he had
taken refuge, and slaughtered by the populace.
The bodies of the brothers Gutierrez were hung
up naked, and disfigured from the cathedral
towers at Lima, after which they were cut down
and publicly burnt in the plaza.

With this closing scene of the drama the
Eevolution ended as suddenly as it began, and
peace and order were restored.

On the return of the " Independencia " to
Callao Sefior Pardo was received with the
greatest enthusiasm, and was at once elected
President of the Republic.

CHAPTER V.

NOTHING of importance occurred during the
remainder of our stay at Callao until we were
relieved by the " Fawn" in October.

During the time we had been stationed on
the Peruvian coast we had received the greatest
kindness and hospitality from the residents both
in Lima and Callao, many of whom were espe-
cially endeared to us from our having been
associated with them during the exciting days
of the revolution, and it was with much regret
that we now prepared to bid them adieu.

During our long stay in Peruvian waters we
had an opportunity of judging of the condition
of the country, its climate and resources. The
climate is necessarily varied according to the

G 2

84 SPORTING ADVENTURES

elevation and geographical position of the
places. At Callao it is pleasantly cool in
winter, and in summer is not so hot as one
would suppose from its position in 12° S. ; this
is owing to the fact of the sun being almost
always obscured.

Between the Andes and the sea coast no rain
falls, though this want is partially supplied by
a kind of Scotch mist which prevails ; in con-
sequence of this absence of rain a great part
of the country west of the Andes is little better
than a desert, and is destitute of vegetation,
but in the valleys and along the banks of rivers
sugar, cotton, rice, and maize flourish, and in the
hilly parts coffee and tobacco are grown.

Several kinds of wild animals exist in the
mountainous regions, the most common being
the llama, of which there are four kinds, the
alpaca, llama, guanaco, and the vicuna. Perhaps
the most valuable of these is the vicuna, on
account of its wool: this animal is also used as
a beast of burthen, and carries a load of about
100 Ibs.

IN THE PACIFIC. 85

Pumas, jaguars, bears, deer, and also many
kinds of smaller animals are to be found in
the interior, and the rivers swarm with
alligators.

Almost every kind of tropical fruit abounds
in Peru; among the most esteemed are the
granadilla and the cherymoya.

Although the principal sources of wealth are
guano and nitrate, yet sugar, coffee, bark,
copper ore, &c., are largely exported. In
mineral wealth Peru is inexhaustible, its wealth
only requires to be developed, and the country
to be opened out, which is being done as fast
as possible, for in 1872 there were over 2000
miles of railways either completed or in course
of construction.

We sailed from Callao on the 9th of October,
1872, bound for the coast of Mexico, and
had been at sea three or four days when,
owing to the illness of one of the officers, we
put into Payta for the purpose of invaliding
him/

This is the most northern port in Peru, it is

86 SPORTING ADVENTUKES

a wretched place, without any attraction what-
ever ; but the harbour is a good one, and the
anchorage very secure.

Whilst waiting the arrival of the mail steamer
I made an expedition to the opposite shores of
the bay, accompanied by some of the officers.
After being nearly capsized in the surf, on
landing, we made our way to a neighbouring
village, one of the few remaining inhabited
by pure Indians, where we passed the night,
and the next morning pushed on to a river
twelve miles off. A long and fatiguing walk
through heavy sand brought us to the river's
bank ; several large alligators were basking on
the mud, some of which we killed, but in no
case did we bag any, as these creatures
invariably manage to reach the water, even
when mortally wounded. After bagging a
number of pigeons and parrots, but seeing no
game, we came to a ranch, where we slept, and
returned to the ship the following day. The
mail steamer having arrived, we took a fresh
departure, and after three days of very pleasant

IN THE PACIFIC. 87

sailing before the S.E. trade wind, we sighted
the Galapagos Islands.

These islands are directly upon the equator,
and are due west of Ecuador, to which country
they belong; the current runs very swiftly past
them to the N.W., so it is necessary to be very
sure of one's position when steering for them.
The first land we made out was Charles Island,
the southernmost of the group, on the north
side of which there is a good harbour called
Post Office Bay, where we anchored.

The same afternoon I landed with the doctor
to explore the island ; we found the place one
mass of cinders and lava, which made it extremely
difficult walking. After scrambling about for
some time, getting our clothes torn by the
dense and thorny jungle, we came across a path
which evidently led up to the mountains ; but
as it was too late to prosecute the search, we
returned on board, prepared to follow it up in
the morning. During our absence a quantity
of excellent fish had been caught, some of which
we enjoyed for supper. At sunset we fired a

88 SPORTING ADVENTUKES

gun, to attract the notice of any inhabitants who
might be on the island, and who would guide
us to the settlement which we understood
existed in the interior.

At daybreak our party, consisting of the

doctor, 0 E , and myself, accompanied

by the sergeant of marines, my coxswain, and two
bluejackets, started on our expedition. We were
all armed with guns or rifles, and well provided
with provisions and water. Striking the trail
we had discovered the previous evening, we
followed it in single file, and had not gone
far when we met two men, one of them on
horseback, with a pack of dogs, coming to
meet us ; they had seen the ship coming
in the day before, and had also heard our
gun.

The principal man introduced himself in
broken English as the commandant of the
island, Colonel M. Zerda by name ; he was
poorly dressed, and seemed in bad health, but
was evidently delighted to see us, as a visitor
in this out-of-the-way place was a rarity. He

IN THE PACIFIC. 89

explained to us that the route we had chosen
was not the best, the path being bad and the
distance great, and advised us to go back and
land at another place, called Black Beach Bay,
on the west side of the island. We therefore
again took to the boat, and pulled round in
that direction. On our way we came across
shoals of large mullet swimming on the surface
of the water, several of which we killed by
firing into them. The sea was alive with fish and
turtle, and so clear was it that we could see every
stone on the bottom, although it was several
fathoms deep. Dropping our lines over the side,
we immediately caught some immense rock cod,
weighing from twenty to thirty pounds each ;
these fish were quite unsophisticated, and would
rush at anything, we even caught some on a bare
hook. Having half filled the boat, and being
tired of the sport, we signalized to the ship to
send another boat, and, having transferred the
fish into her, continued on our way. We
had a long pull to the landing-place, passing
multitudes of seals, penguins, turtle, &c., whilst

90 SPORTING ADVENTURES

an occasional iguana blinked at us from the
black scoriae with which the whole coast was
surrounded. All the islands of this group
bear unmistakeable marks of fire, and many
extinct craters are visible, but only on Albe-
marle Island is there a volcano in active
operation.

Landing abreast of a deserted hut on the
beach we started for the interior, the colonel lead-
ing the way. The path, gradually ascending, led
through the same desolate sort of waste we had
traversed the day before, with cinders under
foot and thorny jungle around. After an
hour's sharp walk we reached a hut, where we
rested for a few minutes ; from this place the
country improved in appearance, trees showed
signs of life, and wild flowers grew here and
there, and the fresh trade wind made our walk
more pleasant. We presently reached a plateau
of about 1000 feet high, where the whole style
of the country changed, and we emerged from
a wilderness into a beautiful park-like country,
surrounded by hills and valleys, with trees

IN THE PACIFIC.

91

laden with fruit, rich grass under our feet, and
many varieties of flowers to greet the eye. The
temperature also changed in a remarkable
degree, in fact we were in a different climate,

THE COLONEL'S HUT.

and it seemed difficult to believe that we were
in the same island.

We at length reached the settlement, con-
sisting merely of two or three huts, into
one of which, the colonel's own abode, we
were heartily welcomed, and refreshed with
coffee, whilst a couple of nimble damsels

92 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

prepared a more substantial repast. A better
site for a settlement could hardly be found;
in front of the hut was a pond of good water,
on which a flock of wild ducks were dis-
porting themselves ; at the back was the
colonel's garden, which he showed us with
great pride; and where splendid potatoes,
lettuces, maize, bananas, oranges, lemons, coffee,
and tobacco all flourished in profusion.

In answer to our eager inquiries as to the
chances of sport, we were assured that there
were plenty of wild cattle, pigs, and goats, and
whilst we were resting after our long walk we
saw some of the cattle browsing on the hill-sides
and shading themselves in the neighbouring
woods.

After our repast, I despatched the sergeant
and two bluejackets to give an account of a cow
which we saw not far off, but they presently
returned, after firing several unsuccessful shots.
The colonel told us that towards evening the
beasts would come down to the pool to drink,
and at night they fed close to his hut, and

IN THE PACIFIC. 93

sometimes broke into the garden ; as it was
now four p.m., and the rest of the cattle had
taken alarm at the firing, we went in search of
others. We presently came across a bull and
cow, but they made off before we could get a
shot at them ; we then separated so as to cir-
cumvent a herd of cattle which we saw in a
valley near at hand, one party going round to
stalk them, whilst the rest of us posted our-
selves in the track we supposed they would take
on being alarmed. From our position we had a
good view of the stalk, we could see the other
party creeping in on the cattle. Presently a
rifle-shot rang out sharp and clear, then another
and away scampered the herd, leaving one beast
on the ground and another wounded ; the first
rose again, but dropped to a second shot, the
other got away, and the whole herd galloped off
without giving us a chance. On joining the
others we found they had killed a fine young
bull ; it was now getting late, so we retraced
our steps to the settlement. There was just
light enough remaining to go to the pool after

94 SPORTING ADVENTURES

the ducks, seven of which I bagged in as- many

minutes,

After a hearty supper of beef and potatoes

washed down with grog, we wished the colonel

good-night, and prepared to turn in; but we
had hardly finished our cigars, when he
rushed into the hut in a great state of excite-
ment, flourishing the stock of a revolver over
his head. He was followed by the two girls,
who were crying bitterly ; from what we could
gather it appeared that on the way to their
sleeping hut they had met a man with whom
the colonel was on bad terms ; this ruffian had
expressed his intention of killing his master the
first opportunity. The colonel seeing the man
approaching him with a knife in his hand,
wisely took the initiative and broke his revolver
over his head. This blow caused the six barrels
to explode simultaneously, and the man fell, as
they supposed, dead. It was difficult to make
head or tail of the story, as the two girls were
screaming in Spanish, and the colonel swearing
in broken English ; but as far as we could make

IN THE PACIFIC. 95

out some one had been killed, so we sallied out
with a lantern to look for the body ; we could
see nothing, however, so we concluded that the
Indian's skull had been proof against a blow
which would have brained any ordinary mortal.
Order being at last restored, we retired again
to our respective huts : we were soon aware,
from sundry noises outside, that a beast of some
sort was feeding within a few yards "of us ;
cautiously stealing out with our rifles ready, we
peered into the darkness, which was so intense
that we could see nothing, although we could
hear an animal breathing and cropping the
grass within five yards of us. At last the brute
either saw or winded us, and with a loud snort
bolted ; the sergeant fired, and declared he hit
it, when we once more retired to rest. "We
were disturbed in this way several times during
the night, but nothing came of it as darkness
favoured the animals ; at daylight we found, by
their tracks, that the cattle had been feeding all
round the hut.

We were all astir as soon as we could see,

96 SPORTING AD VENT GEES

and after a cup of coffee formed ourselves into
three parties and started for the hills: the
sergeant and my coxswain accompanied me.
The morning was cold and raw, with a thick
fog and rain, which soon wetted us to the skin.
We went cautiously along, examining every
yard before us, as we expected to come upon
the cattle at any moment. After crossing a
well-timbered valley, and mounting the opposite
hill, we heard the lowing of beasts below us ;
presently we heard shouts from the hill-side
abreast of us, and then several rifle-shots, a ball
from one of them coming unpleasantly close to
us : the sergeant now said he saw the animals,
and rushed forward to get a shot, calling to
me to come also. I could, however, hear the
crashing of boughs beneath where I stood, and
judging that the beasts were coming my way I
stood still and kept a sharp look-out below.

It was an exciting moment, for though we
could see nothing, it was evident from the
crashing of timber that the beasts were close
by; we were standing on the slope of a hill

IN THE PACIFIC. 97

covered with tangled brushwood and small
rotten trees, none of which would bear a man's
weight. I had my double-barrelled smooth-
bore loaded with ball, and my coxswain stood
behind me with a Winchester repeating rifle as
a reserve.

Presently I espied a fine brindled bull coming
up the hill, not forty yards off : getting a good
sight of him through the trees, I gave him a ball
behind the shoulder ; he dropped instantly on
his knees, but was quickly up again, looking
round for his enemy, when a second ball crashed
through his ribs, and he rolled over never to
rise again. I had hardly reloaded when an
immense black bull came in sight, and received
a ball in the shoulder, which dropped him in his'
tracks ; he was succeeded by two others, at both
of which I fired, but with what success I could
not tell, as they turned and charged down the
hill, and were lost to sight. Reloading my gun,
a snap-actioned breechloader (Powell), we went
up to where the first bull was lying dead ; we
were about to " gralloch " him, and Ricketts,

H

98 SPORTING ADVENTURES

my coxswain, had put down the rifle for that
purpose, when he suddenly called out, "Look out,
sir ! here comes the other." I turned round in
time to see the black bull which I had wounded,
and thought was dead, in the act of charging,
not more than ten yards off; he was in truth a
desperate-looking brute, as he came at us head
down, the blood pouring from his side ; he had
seen us for the first time, and gave a grunt of
satisfaction as he charged ; a ball between the
eyes at point-blank range, however, stopped
him, and the huge beast rolled over dead,
almost at my feet.

We now hailed the party in the valley to
come and help us, as we had more than we
could manage; this brought up a couple of
bluejackets, with whose assistance we dragged
the two bulls down the hill, where we found a
third beast, also a bull, lying. It seems there
had been five of them in the valley, one of

which had been killed by B 5s party, and

the other four came up to me, as already de-
scribed. There was considerable argument as

IN THE PACIFIC. 99

to who killed this beast, several laying claim to
having given him the coup de grace ; the sergeant
vowed that he had shot it in the act of charging,
but this statement must be taken cum grano
salis, seeing that the beast was hit in the stern ;
it was even reported that the sergeant had been
seen to fire into the carcase after it was dead :
be that as it may, we had killed three bulls
before breakfast, not a bad bag.

We were now joined by the doctor, who also
had some adventures to relate ; he had made a
brilliant stalk to within about fifty yards of a
bull and cow without being observed by them.
Taking a careful rest in the fork of a tree, up
which he was prepared to mount in case of
accidents, he took aim at the bull ; but alas ! as
he was about to fire, the ball rolled out of the
muzzle, and fell harmlessly to the ground ; the
bull took the hint and skedaddled.

It was now eight a.m., so we adjourned to
the hut for breakfast ; some ducks had mean-
while returned to the pond, out of which I
bagged five. These birds were a large and hand-

H 2

100 SPORTING ADVENTURES

some kind of teal, with red beaks, and bronze
green on the wings ; they were excellent eating ;
the colonel said that they came in such quanti-
ties during the winter that he had killed them
with a stick.

We were glad of a spell after our exertions,
and enjoyed our coffee and cigars, both of them
the produce of the place, whilst the colonel
entertained us with an account of his life on
the island. From what he told us we concluded
that he was a political refugee from Guayaquil,
his native town ; and being compelled to leave
his country he accepted the post of governor
of these islands, acting in the interest of Seiior
Yaldesan, who rented them from the Govern-
ment of Ecuador. Mr. Valdesan paid an annual
rent of 4000 dollars, a mere nominal sum when
the value of the land is considered. The prin-
cipal source of profit is the orchilla weed, from
which a beautiful dye is made, and which grows
abundantly on the shores of all the islands in
this group.

The colonel, who had no remuneration for

IN THE PACIFIC. 101

his services, complained bitterly of the lone-
liness of his life, and of his need of more
assistance. He had only six men under him,
of whom three were sick, one having been
lamed by a bull, and of the other three one was
the rascal I have already mentioned, whose
presence on the island was a constant source of
peril to the poor old colonel. He assured us
that one or the other must be dead in a day or
two, as the fellow had sworn to stab him, and
now that his revolver was broken he would be
placed at a disadvantage. He begged me to
take the man off the island and land him
elsewhere. This, of course, I was not prepared
to do, but we gladdened his heart by telling
him that his pistol should be repaired, and a
pair of handcuffs be given him, and we advised
him to lose no time in placing his unruly subject
hors de combat. After breakfast we sent a
party to cut up the meat, preparatory to
sending it down to the ship on donkeys. In the

meantime C returned from an unsuccessful

hunt after cattle ; he had come across a herd,

102 SPORTING ADVENTURES

but in the excitement of stalking them his rifle
went off, and so did the beasts.

Having rested and refreshed ourselves, E

an,d I, after taking a turn round, to see how the
men were getting on with the carcases, and
giving directions for preserving the heads,
struck into a thick wood, on the chance of
getting a shot at a bull. We had not gone far
before a red bull, ^ which had been lying down,
sprang up within twenty -five yards of us, and,
after running a short distance, turned and
stood at bay, as though contemplating a

charge, and giving E a point-blank shot

at his head. No result followed the shot,
beyond the speedy retreat of the bull ; perhaps
it was just as well he did so, for had he charged
us in such a place, surrounded as we were by
dense jungle, which would have retarded our
escape, though it would have offered no obstacle
to a heavy beast, we must have either killed
him or he one of us. On our return to the hut
we sent the meat down to the ship, and the
Doctor and C , with two bluejackets, also

IN THE PACIFIC. 103

returned on board, leaving E and myself

with the sergeant and the others to continue
the campaign.

Towards evening the cattle began roaring all
around, but declined to come out into the open,
on account of the reception they had met with
already ; so, after waiting for them till nearly
dark, I went down to the pool and bagged three
and a half brace of teal. The natives seemed
greatly astonished at seeing birds killed on the
wing ; and they greeted each shot with shouts
of " Caramba." At night the women retired to
their own hut, but the colonel preferred to stay
with us ; he slept in a grass hammock, with
three dogs on the top of him; one, a fawn-
coloured mastiff named Boxer, weighing about
half a hundredweight, lay across his stomach, a
white bull terrier on his chest, and a mongrel
on his feet ; he said they served to protect him,
as no doubt they did. During the night we
were constantly disturbed by the cattle which
were feeding close by, but it was too dark to
see to shoot them ; the sergeant fired at one by

104 SPORTING ADVENTURES

the water, and, supposing him to be wounded,
gave chase. It was just beginning to get light,
and with my night-glasses I could distinguish
the beast galloping away with the sergeant and
a bluejacket in full chase. Presently the
gunner's mate, who had remained with me,
reported two fine bulls coming across the open,
and requested leave to fire on them, at the
same time dropping on the knee in the most
approved fashion. I told him to hold on until
I had examined them with the glasses; they
turned out to be the sergeant and his com-
panion returning from their fruitless chase.

By daybreak we were ready for a start, and
fortified against the wet morning with strong
coffee and bread, the sergeant and another went
after cattle, whilst I took another direction,
accompanied by Bicketts, in search of pigs. A
native armed with a spear came with us as guide.

"We walked from daylight until ten o'clock
without seeing a single pig, although their
tracks were everywhere to be seen, and we had
good dogs, but we came across numbers of

IN THE PACIFIC. 105

cattle, some of which plunged into the thicket,
others stopped in the open to take a look at us.
I could easily have killed several of them, but
did not care to do so, as we should have had
some difficulty in getting the meat back to the
hut, and we had already as much as we required.
We also saw a herd of wild asses, and our guide
said there were horses and goats, besides
domestic fowls wild on the island, but we
worked hard in a drenching rain for several
hours, and saw none of them, and we were at
length obliged to return to the hut, as we had a
long walk to the boat the same afternoon. The
colonel told us that the year before our visit
there had been a great drought, and that about
a thousand head of cattle died; he estimated
the remainder at about two thousand. His
men usually killed one a week for their own
use ; their plan was to wait at the water where
they came to drink ; this custom, though a
tolerably sure one, is not unattended' with
danger, for one of the men had been gored to
death by a bull which he had wounded, and

106 SPOETING- ADVENTURES

another had been pinned by the ankle whilst
attempting to climb a tree, and was on the sick
list at the time of our visit. These cattle were
originally introduced by the Spaniards three or
four hundred years ago ; their numbers have of
course increased enormously since then ; they
appear not to have assumed any particular
shade of colour, but every variety was repre-
sented as in the tame sort ; in size they were
even superior to domestic cattle, which might
be accounted for by the excellent pasturage on
the island.

The time had now come for us to be off, so
collecting our traps we started for the beach,
the colonel and the two damsels accom-
panying us.

We failed to observe any of the terrapin or
land tortoise for which these islands used to be
so celebrated, and the colonel informed us that
they had been taken away by the whalers in
such quantities that they were well-nigh exter-
minated, but that a few were still to be found
on some of the islands, more especially on

IN THE PACIFIC. 107

Albemarle. On our way down to the boat we
noticed the tobacco and cotton plant growing
wild, and orange, lemon, and mango trees were
common enough.

We stopped for a short time at the same hut
where we rested on our way up, and where a
somewhat stormy interview took place between
the colonel and one of his subordinates, the
one, I imagine, who had the revolver broken
over his head. The colonel chased the latter
round the hut with a rifle, trying in vain
to get a shot at him, whilst the wretched
fellow, who was armed with a knife about two
feet long, showed his agility by dodging about
the premises to avoid the colonel's aim ; the
women meanwhile set up a melancholy howl,
while we smoked our cigars and watched this
ridiculous spectacle. At length, after consider-
able theatrical display, and a great deal of bad
language, the parties were apparently reconciled,
and we all started for the boat, which we
reached without further adventure. We found
the boat's crew comfortably quartered in the

108 SPORTING ADVENTURES

small hut on the beach, where we had landed
two days before. The colonel told us that his
son had died near this place some time ago, and
thrusting his hand into the thatched roof of
the hut he pulled out a human thigh bone.
" Ah," said he, " dis is de bone of my poor
leetle boy," and, overcome by his emotions, he
dropped it on the ground. Boxer and another
dog immediately seized it and commenced to
worry it, but a kick in the ribs made them drop
it, when the colonel reverently replaced it in
the thatch. Whilst the boat was being got
ready, one of the girls, the best-looking of
the two, retired into the inmost recesses of the
hut, and presently reappeared en grande tenue,
with gold earrings and brooch, and wearing
a flowing bright-coloured, garment. As she
evidently wanted to see the ship, I invited her
to accompany the colonel on board, which she
willingly agreed to. A couple of tars carried
her into the boat, and away we went with a
flowing sheet, reaching the ship at four p.m.
The colonel dined with me, and we passed a

IN THE PACIFIC. 109

very merry evening, the difficulty of repaying
him for his hospitality, and for the provisions,
&c., we had received, was got over by giving
him such things as would be useful to him on
the island. Money was of no use, but the
officers, one and all, contributed such things as
they could spare, and the result was a goodly
hamper of old clothes, shoes, flannel, serge,
knives, scissors, and soap, besides needles and
thread, and a looking-glass for the Senorita,
The poor girl looked the picture of delight as
she sat in my cabin admiring her treasures,
with her lap full of gilt uniform buttons, and a
" Eeindeer " ribbon in her hair. As for the
colonel, words could not express his gratitude ;
but what gave him the greatest delight was a
bran new revolver and case, and a pair of hand-
cuffs for his unruly subjects. The pistol was
fingered to such an extent that it went off in
my cabin, lodging the ball in a beam overhead,
and as for the handcuffs, he sat up all night
clinking them together, occasionally chuckling
and cracking his fingers, evidently thinking how

110 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

he would serve his troublesome subordinates
when he landed. My impression is that the
rascals must have had a rough time of it when
the colonel again trod his native heather.

The next morning a boat was provided to
take our guests back to Black Beach Bay, so as
to save them the long walk from the anchorage
to the settlement. The poor old colonel was
quite overcome at leaving the ship, and
declared he would never forget the "Rein-
deer," and " Felice " seemed to be of the same
opinion.

We soon afterwards got under weigh, and,
having picked up our boat, we filled away on
our course, and the last thing I could make out
as I looked back at the island was the figure of
the old colonel, and the little girl beside him,
standing on the beach where they had been
landed, still looking wistfully after the ship as
she sped through the water before the fresh
trade wind, leaving them far astern in their
solitary home.

CHAPTER VI.

A WEEK of favourable winds carried us to the
Mexican coast, and after a quick passage of
fifteen days from the Galapagos Islands we
anchored at Mazatlan. This place, though an
indifferent harbour, is the principal seaport on
the west coast of Mexico.

During the fine season, from November till
June, the anchorage is quite safe, the climate is
then delightful, a fresh breeze blows daily with
great regularity, giving place to a gentle land
breeze at night. Rain seldom falls during this
season ; and fogs are of very rare occurrence.

From June till November is the rainy season,
during which time heavy gales, accompanied by
rain, thunder, and lightning, prevail, and the

112 SPORTING ADVENTURES

anchorage is then very insecure : all ships leave
the coast at this time, and the small schooners,
which carry on a brisk trade during the fine
season, are dismantled and laid up.

Hurricanes, known by the local name of
cordonazo, literally the lash of a whip, may be
expected any time after the middle of June,
and ships must put to sea at the first warning,
to avoid being driven on shore. These gales
commence from the south-east, which is a fair
wind for leaving the port, they then suddenly
shift to the south-west and blow dead on shore,
causing a very heavy sea.

The appearance of the town is decidedly
pleasing; the white houses interspersed with
cocoa-nut trees give it a bright, refreshing
look, especially in the rainy season, when the
densely-wooded mountains are covered with the
brightest emerald hues.

The principal streets are well laid out and
contain some very fine houses, and there is a
plaza where all the beauty and fashion assemble
to hear a military band, which plays there

IN THE PACIFIC. 113

occasionally of an evening. The Custom-house,
facing the landing-place, has a very imposing
look from a distance, but will not bear a close
inspection.

A considerable trade is carried on between
Mazatlan and the European ports, and the
mail steamers call there on their way to and
from San Francisco and Panama.

The regular traders from Europe seldom
come direct into port, but remain outside
until satisfactory arrangements have been made
between the owners of the ship and the Custom-
house authorities ; hence it is no uncommon
thing for a ship to remain outside, standing
off and on for days and weeks together. This
delay is owing to the unsettled state of the
country, for the merchant, who has already paid
the necessary dues on his expected cargo,
naturally objects to paying a second time on
account of the Custom-house having changed
hands, which it often does : a compromise is
usually arranged, and the ship comes into port to
discharge, failing which she goes to another place.

I

114 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

The export duty on silver is 9^ per cent.,
while that on imported goods is 100 per cent.,
and sometimes more ; the result of this suicidal
system is most damaging to the interests of
the country, and is calculated to encourage
smuggling, which is carried on to a very great
extent.

Notwithstanding the profits arising from
these monstrous charges there is never any
money forthcoming, when required, to feed,
clothe, or transport troops, or for any other
purpose. The wretched soldiers are badly fed,
poorly clad, and seldom paid. If it is necessary
to move a body of troops from one place to
another a requisition is made upon the foreign
merchants for the money, with the understand-
ing that if it is not paid the soldiers will
probably help themselves ; as a necessary con-
sequence the merchants prefer to advance the
money to the alternative of having a lawless,
half-starved rabble let loose upon them.

To a sportsman Mazatlan presents unusual
attractions; a long chain of lagoons extend from

IN THE PACIFIC. 115

the back of the town for several miles parallel
to the sea-beach ; some of these lagoons are
brackish, others quite fresh, but in all of them
many varieties of duck are to be found, besides
snipe, curlew, ibis, spoonbills, coots, &c.

Leaving the ship at daylight, it was no un-
common thing for one gun to bring back from
six to eight brace of ducks before breakfast,
by which time the sun is generally too hot to
make shooting agreeable. There are a few
alligators in these lagoons, but we never found
them molest us, although they would occa-
sionally take down a wounded duck or a dog.

Notwithstanding that many native sports-
men, who make a living by shooting, frequent
these places, and kill a. great quantity of ducks,
there is always sufficient left to satisfy a
sportsman who goes out for exercise and plea-
sure, and is contented with a moderate bag.
There is also good flight- shoo ting to be had,
by posting oneself in the line of flight about
sundown, when the ducks come in from the sea
to the pools.

i 2

116 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

The native sportsman, armed with a rusty
old musket heavily charged, takes his place
amongst the rushes by the waterside about
daybreak, and disdaining single birds, or flying
shots, he waits till he sees a good flock of duck
on the water, when, stripping off every vestige
of clothing, he glides into the water like an
alligator, which indeed he somewhat resembles.
Sinking himself till only his head is visible,
with his right hand he grasps the gun, holding
the barrel horizontal, and just clear of the
water, and in this way, propelling himself with
his legs on the bottom, he stealthily approaches
the ducks till within fifteen or twenty yards,
when a dose of slugs into the brown of them
often kills a dozen and wounds as many more.
Three or four such shots make up a heavy bag,
with which the Indian trudges back to the
town, and sells them in the market for one
" bit " each, or eight for a dollar.

I was out one evening with a companion,
who mistook one of these fellows in the twilight
for an alligator, and gave him a charge of No. 5

IN THE PACIFIC. 117

as lie was stalking some ducks ; a few of the
pellets took effect in the most prominent part
of his person, which happened to be awash at
the moment ; there was a lively scene, and some
compliments exchanged, among which a choice
selection of Spanish oaths could be plainly
heard. My friend, who was an Irishman,
wisely moved on, before the fellow had time
to dress himself, and we heard no more of it.

In the neighbouring woods there are deer,
hares, rabbits, armadillo, Californian quail, and
chachalacas (the Mexican pheasant), but the
woods are so infested with garrapatos, a
species of tick, which burrows into the skin,
that it is best to keep clear of them. Parrots
and macaws abound in countless thousands,
though not immediately near the town ; it is a
pity to kill them, although they are not bad
eating, unless one wants the feathers for salmon
flies.

One day whilst shooting quail not far from
the town, accompanied by my coxswain, we
were surprised by the report of artillery and

118 SPORTING ADVENTURES

a round shot pitching close to us ; this was
followed by a shell which burst in a bush
within a few yards of us, upon which we
moved on ; it appeared that the Mexican artillery
were exercising their one field-piece in antici-
pation of an attack from some rebel troops who
were supposed to be in the neighbourhood.

In the harbour and estuaries sharks and
turtle abound, besides many kinds of fish,
which may be either caught with a seine or
killed by torpedoes of dynamite powder; the
latter is very destructive, but is a most danger-
ous amusement, and many people have lost
their lives or limbs by using them.

There is a kind of rock cod called the
maro, which attains a prodigious size, fre-
quently being killed with the hand-line over
200 Ibs. weight, and they have been known to
reach as much as 300 Ibs.

Devil-fish are also occasionally seen in the
harbour, and we once managed to harpoon one
from a boat ; the beast towed the boat round the
harbour at a great rate, and finally broke adrift.

IN THE PACIFIC. 119

Mazatlan is not unhealthy, notwithstanding
the mangrove swamps in the neighbourhood ;
these are flooded with each tide, and in the
rainy season become one large lake, but the
town being built on a promontory gets the
benefit of the sea breeze, and is not affected by
the malaria, like many other places on the
coast.

The natives living in the ranches scattered
about the country are as a rule most civil, and
grateful for the smallest remuneration; they
are very poor, and live almost entirely upon
tortillas , a pancake made from Indian corn,
and frijoles, the brown bean of the country :
on this simple fare a Mexican will go anywhere,
especially if it be washed down by a glass of
Mescal, a spirit made from the cactus. The
native women are not bad-looking, and all have
beautiful dark eyes and hair, and small hands
and feet.

CHAPTER VII.

AT the time of our arrival on the coast there
were rumours of a disturbance at Tepic, a city
of considerable importance about fifty-six miles
inland from the port of San Bias.

A celebrated rebel chief of the name of
Lozada had governed the province of Tepic
for several years, and on being ordered to
tender his submission to the Government of
President Lerdo he declined to do so, and in
order to gain time, in the event of a rupture, he
despatched a deputation to the city of Mexico,
in charge of Senor Don Manuel Zelayetta, the
chief of the customs at Tepic, to endeavour to
make terms with the Government. *

At the same time he warned his people to be

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC. 121

ready for a campaign, and he issued a pro-
clamation to the residents in Tepic, to the
effect that if there was a rupture of the peace
it would not be his doing, and that in the event
of war he would not be answerable for the
conduct of his men, nor would he guarantee the
safety of those residing in the city.

This proclamation naturally caused much
alarm amongst the residents, and the foreign
merchants addressed me a letter, requesting me
to support them by bringing the ship to San
Bias, and coming to Tepic to consult with them
as to the best steps to be taken in the matter.

With this object we proceeded to San Bias
on the 16th of December, and arrived there the
following day, when I immediately went to
Tepic, accompanied by some of the officers of
the " Reindeer."

A coach drawn by six mules starts from San
Bias every alternate day, and occupies from ten
to eighteen hours on the journey, according to
the season of the year; the distance is about
fifty-six miles, and the road the worst I ever

122 SPORTING ADVENTURES

saw, being more like the dry bed of a Highland
river than anything else ; in the rainy season it
somewhat resembles the river itself.

On our arrival at Tepic we were lodged
in the magnificent house of Messrs. Barron,
Forbes, and Co,, where we were most hospitably
entertained during our stay by Mr. Heaven, the
energetic manager of the house.

The deputation sent to Mexico was not
expected back for some time, so we had ample
leisure to enjoy ourselves pending their return,
when the question of war or peace was to be
decided. Horses and carriages were placed at
our disposal, and nothing was forgotten which
could contribute in any way to our comfort or
amusement.

Tepic is situated in a valley 3000 feet above
the level of the sea, and contains some 20,000
inhabitants ; the climate is far superior to that
on the coast ; although hot in the middle of the
day, the mornings and evenings are cool and
pleasant, and there are no mosquitoes or sand-
flies as at San Bias.

IN THE PACIFIC. 123

The valley in which the city lies is surrounded
on all sides by lofty mountains, among which
San Juan and San-Jnan-quey stand conspicu-
ous ; at the foot of the former is a curiously-
shaped hill called " Cuchillo," evidently an
extinct crater, near which is the village of San
Luis, at that time the head-quarters of Lozada.
A pretty river winds through the valley, and
passes close to the town ; by following up this
stream to its source some excellent duck and
snipe shooting may be had.

The river is spanned by a bridge on the road
to Guadlajara, and we found that the best sport
was to be had from the bridge upwards. The
variety of duck we got here was quite astonish-
ing ; we frequently bagged five or six different
kinds in a day, including mallard, widgeon, teal,
pin-tail, shovellers, black duck, &c., besides
snipe, ibis, and many kinds of waders.

The shooting was of the prettiest description ;
by following along the windings of the river one
could come suddenly upon a flock of duck, or
else spy them along a reach and stalk them.

124 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Here and there, where the river had overflowed
its banks, a marshy patch would yield a few
couple of snipe, and so a very pretty bag could
be made. My last day at this place with
another gun was nine couple of snipe and eight
brace of ducks before breakfast. It was always
advisable to carry a revolver, owing to the
disturbed state of the country, but we were
never molested.

There are deer, wild boars, and jaguars or
tigers as they are called, in the woods, also
turkeys, pheasants, and other game, but they
are difficult to get at, and we could not spare
time enough to make an expedition to any
distance from our head-quarters. Besides sport
there is very much to interest and amuse one at
Tepic ; a favourite rendezvous of ours was the
cotton factory of Jauqa, belonging to Messrs.
Barron, Forbes, and Co. The house looks
more like a baronial mansion than a factory ; it
is surrounded by trees, and has a beautiful
garden, through which the river runs; the
stream turns the machinery of the factory.

IN THE PACIFIC.

125

The garden is beautifully kept, and is well
supplied with fruit and flowers. Jauqa is one
of the principal cotton factories in the country,
and supplies all the chief towns in Mexico with

THE COTTON FACTORY OF JAU'QA, NEAR TKJ'IC.

mantas, a species of cotton garment ; several
hundred operatives are employed on the
works.

The sugar estate of Puga, also belonging to
Messrs. Barron, Forbes, and Co., is well worth a
visit ; it is situated about two leagues from Tepic;
the building is a fine one, in the old Spanish style,

126 SPORTING ADVENTURES

with a patio or courtyard in the centre, at
the back of the house is a lovely garden, well
stocked with orange-trees and limes, under the
shadow of which a swimming-bath is temptingly
placed. The machinery on this estate is worked
by steam, as they have no water power as at
Jauqa. The sugar manufactured at Puga is of
very superior quality; it is almost all sold in the
country. There is another sugar estate near
Tepic, called Bella Vista, belonging to Messrs.
Agierrez; this is also a lovely spot, as the name
implies ; the view from the top of a hill over-
looking the factory is magnificent, the valley
below being entirely under cultivation with
acres of waving sugar-cane and rice, which
affords a pleasing contrast to the surrounding
scenery.

Excellent coffee is grown on some of these
estates, and tobacco of the finest quality. There
is a large cigar manufactory at Tepic, and
another at San Bias, where very fair cigars may
be bought for twenty to twenty-five dollars a
thousand.

IN THE PACIFIC. 127

Not far from Tepic there is a large plain
called the Laguna. This was once a lagoon,
but was drained by Mr. Barron some years ago
at a great expense; by this not only is the
sanitary condition of the city much improved,
but a valuable tract of country reclaimed,
on which many hundred head of cattle and
horses are pastured. These animals, from being
allowed to roam about undisturbed, have be-
come almost wild, and when any of them are
wanted they are hunted down and lassoed.

We went one day to the laguna to see some
colts branded, and had a good opportunity of
witnessing the skill and horsemanship of the
Mexican rancher os, for which they are so cele-
brated. We saw several savage bulls lassoed,
and thrown very cleverly ; but the most won-
derful performance was to see a rancher o ride
at full gallop alongside of a bull, seize the
beast by the tail whilst going at the top of his
speed, and by a clever twist throw the animal
on to the ground, where he lay looking very
foolish.

128 SPORTING ADVENTURES

On this occasion several hundred young
mares were driven into a corral, where they
were lassoed, thrown, and branded. Several of
these poor beasts were very roughly handled by
the natives, who had no regard whatever for
the feelings of the animals. There was one
half-wild mare, which had never had saddle or
bridle put upon her, and looked as if she never
intended to have. One of Lozada's chiefs, who
happened to be present, volunteered to mount
this creature for our especial edification. She
was in the corral with the others, when three
or four Indians lassoed her, and after some
desperate struggles threw her down, with such
force that blood poured from her nose. The
next operation was to get the bridle on, which
took about a quarter of an hour, when she was
allowed to rise. Another display of kicking
and biting then took place, but at last the
heavy Mexican saddle was firmly secured and
the mare was led forth. Meanwhile, the Indian
who was to ride her had strapped on a pair of
spurs as big as a saucer, and was smoking his

IN THE PACIFIC. 129

cigarette, and when all was ready lie patted the
mare and sprang lightly into the saddle. Im-
mediately a lively scene ensued, the beast rear-
ing, kicking, bucking, and trying to jam the
rider's leg against the wall of the corral ; but
finding all these fail, she threw a somersault in
the air, landing on her back. The Indian, who
had taken it very coolly, was prepared for this
manoeuvre, and threw himself clear, ready to
mount again as soon as the mare was on her
legs. This performance was repeated two or
three times, till we stopped it, as it was quite
evident that the man would conquer. The
poor beast — sweating, bleeding, and trembling
in every limb — was then allowed to go, with
scarcely strength or energy left to rejoin her
comrades in the plain.

A Mexican gentleman also gave us an exhi-
bition of his skill with the lasso, never failing to
throw it over the head or horns of an animal
whilst going at full gallop ; his horse also
seemed to enter into the sport with much gusto>
like an old hunter.

130 SPORTING ADVENTURES

A well-mounted and fully-equipped Mexican
is certainly a fine sight, with his saddle, bridle,
and accoutrements richly mounted with silver,
and his broad sombrero and slashed trousers
ornamented with the same costly material. All
carry a rifle, sword, and pistol, very necessary
additions to one's outfit in that country.

We rode one day to the coffee plantation of
La Fortuna, and were most kindly received by
the proprietor, who showed us over the estate.

One of the great difficulties which planters in
these countries have to contend against is the
ants. Some of these insects are nearly an inch
long; they will strip a tree of its leaves in
a single night, and completely ruin a coffee
plantation if precautions are not taken to defeat
them. I have, whilst hunting in the woods of
Central America and Mexico, come across these
insects travelling along a beaten path as broad
as a man's thigh, made by themselves. There
were myriads of them going to and fro, and all
of those going in one direction would be carry-
ing a leaf, or part of a leaf, plucked from some

IN THE PACIFIC. 131

unlucky tree in the neighbourhood. There are
several ways of preventing their depredations.
Perhaps the simplest is to dig a trench round
each plant and fill it with water. It is said
that corrosive sublimate sprinkled across their
path will drive them mad, when they attack
and destroy one another. Coal tar will also
turn them ; and another plan is to tie wisps of
grass round the trees with the points down-
wards ; the ants endeavour to pass the obstacle
and lose themselves amongst the blades.

Whenever an ants' nest is discovered near
any plantation it is at once destroyed. These
nests are generally five or six feet underground ;
and it is a curious fact that they invariably
contain a snake, or one or more scorpions, living
in harmony with the ants. What they are doing
there I cannot say ; probably the ants provide
them with food, and in return are protected
against a common enemy ; but it certainly
seems as though they had some understanding
between each other.

We had been at Tepic nearly a month, when
K 2

132 SPORTING ADVENTURES

it became apparent that a pacific arrangement
between Lozada and the Government would
be highly improbable, and I was given to under-
stand that hostilities would be likely to com-
mence about the middle of January. I there-
fore made arrangements to return to the ship
on the 13th, and warned all those who were
desirous of securing their own safety to accom-
pany or follow us to San Bias, where they
would be under the protection of the British
flag.

Before daylight of the 13th I left Tepic,
accompanied by Mr. Heaven and as many of
the officers as happened to be then staying
there. Our departure had already been delayed
long enough, for we found the roads in the
possession of Lozada' s soldiers, who imme-
diately stopped us outside the city, but on
ascertaining that we were English officers they
allowed us to proceed, and we reached San
Bias without further molestation.

The road between San Bias and Tepic is not
considered a safe one, as a .band of brigands

IN THE PACIFIC. 133

infest the neighbourhood, and frequently rob
and abuse passing travellers. These cowardly
rascals sometimes catch a Tartar, as the follow-
ing story will show : —

Mr. S , a member of a well-known family

in Mexico, had, it appears, given offence to a
band of brigands, who determined to settle
accounts with him. He lived in a hacienda not
far from Tepic, and one morning, before he was
out of bed, he received a visit from thirty or forty
of the brigands. Fortunately he heard them
coming, and placed his revolver under the bed-
clothes. Presently one of the robber chiefs
came in, and, wishing him good morning,
entered into conversation. The man, seeing a
rifle leaning against the wall, suddenly pos-
sessed himself of the weapon, and concluding
that his victim was at his mercy, he coolly in-
formed him that he meant to kill him. Mr.
— , to gain time, asked if money would not
do as well, at the same moment cocking his
revolver under the clothes. The brigand said
no, that he must have his blood, and cut short

134 SPORTING ADVENTURES

any further parley by firing at Mr. S as he

lay in bed. The latter, who was prepared for
something of the sort, avoided the shot by
dodging, and quickly returned the compliment
by sending a ball through the scoundrel's head,
Another brigand, who was waiting outside, now

came in laughing, supposing Mr. S to be

killed ; but he also was disposed of by a ball

between the eyes. Mr. S then got up, and

finding the rest of the gang in the yard, he shot
two more, when the remainder bolted.

Shortly after our departure from San Bias,
some of these scoundrels attacked and murdered
an unoffending merchant of that place. The
poor fellow defended himself in the most gallant
manner, and killed four or five of the brigands
before he succumbed.

For a day or two after our return to the ship
I anxiously awaited news from Tepic, but the
telegraph wires had been destroyed, and the
coach stopped, by order of Lozada ; his soldiers
lined the roads, and all direct communication
was cut off. In a few days I received a letter

IN THE PACIFIC. 135

by special messenger from Mr. Heaven, who had
returned to Tepic. The bearer of this despatch
had contrived to evade the sentries during the
night, and, running all the way, had reached the
coast by a circuitous route. This letter informed
me that Lozada had declared war against the
Government (a number of bombastic proclama-
tions, as usual in like cases, announced this
event), and that he had despatched 5000 men to
attack Mazatlan; while Lozada himself, at the
head of another 5000, had inarched on Guadal-
jara, a large city in the interior. Mr. Heaven
added that all was quiet in Tepic, and they con-
sidered themselves safe for the present.

Under these circumstances it seemed to me
that the ship would be of more service at
Mazatlan than at San Bias. I therefore re-
turned an answer, informing the residents of
my intention of proceeding forthwith to
Mazatlan.

When on the point of sailing I received
another letter, signed by the leading merchants
in Tepic, to say that affairs had ^assumed a very

136 SPORTING ADVENTURES

threatening attitude in the city, and begging
that the ship might remain for the present at
San Bias.

The difficulty now was to satisfy all parties ;
in point of fact, to be in two places at the same
time. It was evident we could not well leave
San Bias, and equally plain that we were
wanted at Mazatlan, where the foreign mer-
chants would be in need of assistance in the
event of the city be'ng captured by Lozada's
men. I adopted a compromise. The troops
which had already started, would, I was aware,
take five or six days of rapid marching to reach
Mazatlan, whilst we could do it in twenty- four
hours by sea.

I therefore sent back a reply to say that the
" Reindeer " would remain forty-eight hours
longer at San Bias, so as to allow time for any
families to leave the city, after which I should
proceed without further delay to Mazatlan.

As nothing more could be done for the
present, I went out shooting. San Bias is one
of the worst places on the coast; the anchorage

IN THE PACIFIC. 137

is simply an open roadstead, and is only safe
during the fine season. There is an inner
harbour suitable for very small craft, where
the coasting schooners lay up during the
hurricane months. On landing, one is imme-
diately attacked by myriads of sand-flies and

D

mosquitoes, and the only remedy is to keep
continually smoking; fortunately cigars are
plentiful and good.

A considerable amount of cedar, rose, ebony,
and other fancy woods are shipped from this
port. The old town formerly stood on a hill
about a quarter of a mile from the present
straggling village ; it was destroyed by an
earthquake many years ago, and the ruins may
still be seen.

The present place is unhealthy at certain
seasons of the year, owing to the malaria arising
from the mangrove swamps in the neighbour-
hood, the haunt of alligators, snakes, and
other noxious creatures.

There is no shooting in the immediate vicinity
of the port ; but by following up a river, the

138 SPORTING ADVENTURES

mouth of which is a short distance to the south-
ward of the anchorage, some very good sport
may be had.

Accompanied by Doctor S , I ascended

this river to its source, seventeen miles from the
sea, and starting by night in a canoe paddled by
two Indians, we accomplished half the distance
by daybreak. The scenery was most mono-
tonous ; nothing was to be seen but mangrove
bushes which overhung the water on both sides.
Our Indians paddled silently along, driving the
frail craft swiftly through the muddy stream.
Occasionally an alligator would glide off the
mud-bank where he had been reposing, and
rise again close to the canoe, with only his eye
and snout above water, presenting a tempting
though difficult shot, and we passed so many of
these reptiles that the smell which they emitted
was quite sickening. We killed and wounded
several, and nearly capsized the canoe whilst
trying to haul one on board. At one place
there were at least a dozen of them in sight at
the same time, and whilst I was blazing away

IN THE PACIFIC. 139

at them with a repeating rifle, my dog " Rose,"
thinking there must be something to retrieve,
jumped overboard in their midst; fortunately
we dragged her into the canoe before any harm
was done. The firing unfortunately disturbed
a large flock of pato real, (royal ducks), which
sailed away overhead. After this the river
gradually became narrower, until there was
barely room to work the paddles, and we pre-
sently reached our destination, a large swamp
with rushy patches and pools, whereon many
kinds of duck and teal were to be seen.

We now landed, and waded over the marsh,
picking up duck, snipe, and a couple of brace
of geese. We also saw and bagged for the first
time a species of duck called the- "pichichi."
These birds go about in large flocks, and are not
so wild as the other sorts ; they are handsome
birds, with rich brown breasts and long yellow
legs ; they move their wings slowly and make a
whistling noise whilst flying, and altogether
are more like miniature geese than ducks. With
a good mixed bag we returned to our canoe, and

140 SPOKTING ADVENTURES

reached the ship the same night, none the
worse for our expedition.

On returning on board, I found a letter from
Mr. Heaven, to say that he was going to make
the attempt to reach San Bias with his wife
and family on the following day, and that in all
probability several other families would follow
his example. On receipt of this news several
of us decided to ride part of the way to meet
them.

The next morning on landing we found the
custom-house deserted by the employes, who,
one and all took refuge on board the " Rein-
deer." The captain of the port had disappeared,
and his place was filled by one of Lozada's
officials. Almost all the horses and mules had
been either stolen by Lozada's soldiers or
hidden away to avoid being taken, and we
found it impossible to procure any conveyance.
A good-natured Frenchman, however, lent me
his mule, and, taking a young Mexican as guide,
I started on the road leading to Tepic. After
riding twenty-one miles, we halted at a village

IN THE PACIFIC. 141

to rest, and whilst there Mr. Heaven and his
family drove up in a coach. They had left Tepic
before daylight, and fortunately had met with
no interruption on the road. We returned to
San Bias together, where they took up their
quarters, at a house belonging to Mr. Barron.

That evening Mr. Heaven dined with me on
board. We had parted for the night, and I was
about to retire, when he came alongside again
in a canoe, having been warned by a friendly
Indian, in Lozada's service, that orders had
been sent from Tepic to arrest him and take
him back to the city. Under these circum-
stances I thought it advisable to make him
comfortable on board for the night, and to send
an officer with a guard of bluejackets to pro-
tect the house. The next morning Lozada's
people called for Mr. Heaven, and were not a
little disappointed to find that the bird had
flown, and a party of English seamen, armed to
the teeth, were in possession of the premises.
As Mr. Heaven was the representative of a
wealthy house, and moreover possessed of almost

142 SPORTING ADVENTURES

unlimited powers, it was of the highest import-
ance to Lozada to obtain possession of him,
and it was said that he calculated on getting
a million dollars from the firm for his ransom.
Had the money not been forthcoming, that
gentleman's life would in all probability have
been forfeited.

A Mexican gentleman in business in Tepic
had already been imprisoned by the orders of
Lozada for some imaginary offence, and his
death-warrant had been read to him. He was,
however, eventually released on payment of a
large sum of money.

The morning after the attempted arrest of
Mr. Heaven, I went on shore to see the official
who had given directions for his capture. I
found him at his office with his " secretary,"
and a more rascally -looking pair it would be
difficult to find. The captain, as he was called,
was a dark, sulky-looking Indian, who evidently
could not write, hence the necessity of a secre-
tary. The latter had a club foot, and a
diabolical-looking squint. They sat together

IN THE PACIFIC. 143

at the table, each with his revolver loaded and
capped by his right hand, with the barrels
pointing across the table; they had the de-
cency, however, to turn them away from me
when I sat down. In reply to my remark that
" I was astonished that an English gentleman
whilst on a visit to San Bias, and my guest,
had been grossly insulted by being searched
for and ordered to return to Tepic," they replied
that they were merely subordinates, and had to
carry out their instructions, and that they in-
tended to do so if possible. I informed them that
Mr. Heaven was safe on board the " Reindeer,"
and likely to remain there ; but that should he
think fit to come on shore, he should do so, and
he would be protected. In answer to my ques-
tion regarding the safety of the ladies and chil-
dren, they said they did not intend to molest
them. The same night a reinforcement of
soldiers was sent down from Tepic, and our
guard at the house was doubled. Meanwhile
the forty-eight hours' grace had nearly expired.
During this time many families had left Tepic,

144 SPORTING ADVENTURES

and made their way to San Bias, to seek the
protection of the British flag. I was now
anxious to reach Mazatlan, and not liking to
desert these poor people, I made arrangements
to embark the whole of them and carry them
to that port.

With this object in view, I landed on the
morning of the 25th January, leaving orders
for steam to be ready at two p.m. On landing I
was handed two letters from the officials before
mentioned, forbidding any refugees to embark
on board the " Reindeer," and coolly request-
ing me to comply with the demand. The
letters, being written in Spanish, required the
aid of an interpreter, and also time for con-
sideration, before an answer, which was re-
quested, could be returned. This unavoidable
delay enabled me to send word of the position
of affairs to the senior lieutenant, who with
commendable alacrity sent all our boats ashore
manned and armed. The people flocked down
to the beach, and in a wonderfully short time,
thanks to the admirable arrangements of the

IN THE PACIFIC. 145

officers in charge, upwards of 100 men,
women, and children, together with a quantity
of baggage, were embarked, and at the time
appointed the " Reindeer " was steaming out of
the harbour with her head pointed for Ma-
zatlan.

Fortunately, we had a quick and pleasant
passage, the water was as smooth as glass, and
the monotonous thumping of the screw was
relieved by the squalling of babes and the
wrangling of their nurses. As we had no
accommodation for so large a number, the
greater part had to remain on deck, no great
hardship in such a climate. We spread sails
for them to sleep upon, and with awnings sloped
over them, and the flags of England and Mexico
draped around, the deck presented a very
cheerful and homelike appearance. The ladies
occupied my cabin, and many of the officers
gave up theirs to accommodate the gentlemen.
The difficulty of feeding so large a party was
got over by rigging a long table on deck, where
relays of " square rneals " were continually

L

146 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

served for the better class of our guests, while
the bluejackets took care of the remainder.
My coxswain was placed in charge of the cabin
where the ladies were sleeping, with orders to
admit no one on any pretence whatever ; and
well he did his duty, for from the bridge I
could hear several anxious husbands clamouring
in vain for admission, and the last seen of the
faithful fellow he was stretched across the
threshold, apparently overcome by his feelings,
but true to the last. Our reception at Mazatlan
was most cordial, and we were glad to find that
our friends there were in no immediate danger,
as Lozada' s forces had met with a repulse at
Rosario, several leagues distant from the city,
in consequence of which many of his men had
deserted and returned to their homes.

Lozada in person was soon afterwards
defeated by General Corona, before the walls of
Guadalajara; his forces, always disaffected,
were now thoroughly demoralized, and a
general stampede was the result. Lozada
himself, with a handful of followers as des-

IN THE PACIFIC. 147

perate as himself, retreated to the mountains,
where he was eventually betrayed and captured
by one of his oldest companions.

He was tried by court-martial in Tepic, and
sentenced to be shot, but refusing to have his
eyes bandaged, he knelt down with his face to
the firing party and died with great courage.

Thus perished the robber-chief of Mexico,
the " Tiger of Tepic," as he was appropriately
called, one of the most celebrated bandits of
his day. For fourteen years Lozada had
defied the authorities, and eluded such bodies
of troops as were sent to capture him, only
leaving his mountain retreat to kill and torture
with the most horrible cruelty. There was no
crime which he had not committed scores of
times, and his name will ever be associated with
the most diabolical outrages and unrelenting
cruelty.

L 2

CHAPTER VIII.

WE remained another three weeks at Mazatlan,

to see that affairs were thoroughly settled,

during this time I made an expedition in the

company of some friends, to a place called the

"Presidio," a cotton factory some leagues

distant from the town. We had a pretty drive

of three hours to the factory, where we slept,

and at daylight the next morning we started

for a neighbouring marsh, where we made a

good bag of ducks and snipe, besides a few

quail and rabbits which we found in the scrub.

After breakfast, a bath and siesta, we drove to

a lagoon, celebrated for wild fowl, several miles

farther on. When we reached this place we

observed a very remarkable optical delusion.

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC. 149

We saw before us apparently a large sheet of
water, in which mountains, trees, horses, and
cattle were plainly reflected. On a nearer
approach the scene changed, and nothing
remained but a dry plain of mud, cracked by
the heat of the sun, and over which a gaseous
vapour floated. Driving on, the effect was
repeated, the animals, the trees, and the moun-
tains really existed, but not the water. At last,
after many disappointments, we came to a pool
of brackish water, where all the birds in the
country seemed to have collected. We got at
this one spot nearly fifty head of duck, snipe,
and various kinds of waders, which, added to
our bag of the morning, made up a very good
score.

On the 19th February, 1873, we sailed from
Mazatlan, bound to Panama and intermediate
ports. We had already overstayed our time on
the coast, owing to the disturbed state of the
country, but there was no longer any need of
our services. A pleasant sail of three days,
with fair winds and smooth water, brought us

150 SPORTING ADVENTURES

to Manzanillo, a pretty little port and a good
harbour, but where we remained only a few
hours, as the place is very unhealthy, especially
in the summer months, when some large
lagoons at the back of the town are almost
dry. At night the land breeze wafts off an
odoriferous bouquet from these swamps, which
is neither wholesome nor agreeable. The day
before we arrived an attempt had been made to
purify one of these lagoons by connecting it
with the sea, and allowing the tide free access
to it; but the only immediate result had been
to drive out a quantity of alligators, fish, and
lumber into the sea, amongst which was a
valuable lot of cedar cut in baulks ready for
shipping. One of these pieces, weighing some
three tons, we hoisted in and secured.

Manzanillo is the seaport of Colima, from
which it is distant ninety miles, and a consider-
able trade is carried on between the two places.
From thence we ran down the coast to
Acapulco, where we anchored two days after-
wards. The harbour of Acapulco is the finest

IN THE PACIFIC. 151

on the west coast of Mexico ; it is perfectly
land-locked, spacious, and secure. It was
formerly celebrated as the rendezvouz for the
Spanish galleons trading to Manilla, and in
those days Acapulco must have been a thriving
place; but now it is in a dilapidated condi-
tion. The houses have sloping thatched roofs,
which afford protection from the sun and rain,
and all have a verandah round them, where the
owner may generally be seen reclining during
the heat of the day. The town, being shut in
by the mountains on all sides, is excessively hot,
but there is a gap in one of the hills, through
which the sea breeze blows like a funnel. By
anchoring abreast of this place, and springing
the ship broadside to the breeze, we managed
to keep cool, whilst those on shore were
sweltering.

There is some good shooting to be had not
far from the anchorage, if one does not mind
hard work and exposure to the sun.

Accompanied by E , I went to a place

called Marques, about five miles by sea from

152 SPOTTING ADVENTURES

the ship : we landed at the head of the bay,
where there were a few huts ; at the back of
these was an unhealthy-looking mangrove
swamp, where numerous alligators lived un-
disturbed. Taking a canoe, we paddled through
the mangrove bushes, which were so thick that
their branches mefc overhead, shutting out the
light of day; the water was stagnant and of
a deep chocolate colour, and emitted a foul
stench on being stirred up by the canoe. Not
a breath stirred the leaves, and perfect silence
reigned in this gloomy spot. Occasionally the
head of an alligator would show itself above the
surface, and, having " fixed " us with his wicked-
looking eye, as though he wondered what
possessed us to disturb the solitude of his
sanctuary, would sink slowly down again;
iguanas blinked at us from the branches over-
head, and rattlesnakes glided away through the
rotten underwood. We felt inclined, whilst con-
templating this scene, to question the monstrous
assertion that " only man is vile," but we found
that cigars and brandy were of more practical

IN THE PACIFIC. 153

use in such a place, than poetry, and were
absolutely necessary to enable us to proceed.

After paddling for some distance, we caine to
a clearer space, and the scene became generally
more cheerful, many kinds of cranes, ibis, boat-
bills, &c., were congregated in the bushes on
either side, and flew lazily away at our approach,
flocks of macaws, parrots, and parroquets,
passed over our heads on the way to their feed-
ing grounds, filling the air with their discordant
cries, while from the depths of the neighbouring
woods the tapping of the woodpecker or the
cooing of the turtle-dove could occasionally be
distinguished. "We presently landed, hauled up
our canoe, and made our way to a lagoon not
far off, a most sequestered spot surrounded by
trees; a flock of "pichichi" ducks rose on our
approach and circled round us, leaving a couple
of brace to be transferred to the bag. The
water of this lagoon was so thickly covered
with a species of lily that we found it difficult
to wade, and my poor old retriever could make
no headway, as she could neither walk nor swim.

154 SPORTING ADVENTURES

We bagged a few brace of the " Pato Keal" or
Royal Ducks, the finest ducks in Mexico or
indeed anywhere; they appear to be the original
wild stock of the Muscovy duck, and have the
same red wattles over the beak and eye, their
plumage is a lovely bronze green with a white
bar on the wings, their claws are of great length,
and they perch on trees, as the "pichichi" also do.
One fine old cock bird which we weighed turned
the scale at six pounds, and we were told that they
reached as much as nine pounds. Besides these
we killed several kinds of ibis, and some lovely
little water-rails, which latter are common in all
the marshes of Mexico; these little fellows,
though not bigger than a blackbird, have almost
the plumage of a pheasant, their breasts and
backs are of a rich, ruddy brown, with bright
yellow under their wings, beak and eyes red,
and a sharp red spur on the joint of the wing ;
the female is less brilliantly marked. They
have long yellow legs and very long toes, which
enable them to tread lightly over the leaves of
the water-lilies, and when they alight they keep

IN THE PACIFIC. 155

their wings poised upwards for a few moments
to steady themselves ; we only shot a few of
these little birds for specimens. In the woods
we saw many beautiful varieties of jays, pigeons,
and woodpeckers, which we did not molest as
we had a good bag, with which we returned on
board.

Having completed our coaling, we left
Acapulco and steered for the Gulf of Fonseca,
where we had orders to call ; whilst steaming
down the coast in a flat calm, we passed great
quantities of turtle asleep on the top of the
water. I sent away a boat with a clever
harpooner to secure some of them, and he
returned in about an hour with twenty-two,
enough for all hands ; we could have got any
number of them, as the sea was dotted with
them in all directions, but we could not afford
the time. It was very amusing to watch the
boat stealthily approach the sleeping victim,
sometimes the turtle was asleep with one eye
open, and would dive in time to save his bacon,
but generally the harpooner was too quick for

156 SPORTING ADVENTURES

him, and speared Mm through back and breast.
On many of these creatures' backs sea-fowl had
taken up their temporary abode, and occasion-
ally the fact of the bird flying away would rouse
the poor turtle to a sense of his danger in time
to save himself.

On the 18th of March we steamed into the
beautiful Gulf of Fonseca, and anchored off
the town of La Union. Fonseca Bay is one of
the hottest places on the coast ; it contains two
ports. La Union, belonging to the Republic of
Salvador, and Amapala, to that of Nicaragua.
The anchorage at both places is excellent, as
the water is always perfectly smooth; at La
Union the ship lays on the mud at low water.
The bay is enclosed by magnificent volcanic
mountains, which accounts for the numerous
earthquakes that periodically devastate the
country; it is studded with islands, some of
considerable size and all of remarkable beauty.
We had been two days at La Union, and were
on the point of starting for Panama with steam
up, when a rumour reached us that a fearful

IN THE PACIFIC. 357

earthquake had taken place at San Salvador,
the capital of the state, and that the city had
been completely destroyed during the night
of the 19th of March. I could gain but little
information from the authorities on shore ;
and those I consulted were inclined to dis-
credit the story. Whilst I was endeavouring
to arrive at the truth, the American mail
steamer " Winchester " arrived from the south-
ward, and her captain told me that he had met
with very bad weather outside; and that on
leaving the port of Realejo, the sea was so con-
fused that his ship was almost unmanageable.
This convinced me that some great convulsion
of nature had taken place, and I determined to
proceed at once to La Libertad, the seaport of
San Salvador, to see for myself what had hap-
pened, and to render any service in our power.
The " Winchester " was also going to touch there
on her way up the coast ; she sailed an hour
before us, but the " Reindeer," putting her best
foot foremost, passed her during the night, and
arrived at La Libertad the following morning.

158 SPORTING ADVENTURES

From the captain of the port we learnt that
the account of the earthquake was too true,
and that, as he expressed himself in Spanish,
the city no longer existed ; he kindly undertook
to provide me with a coach, in which, accom-
panied by Doctor Smyth, the surgeon of the
ship, and Mr. Davey, assistant-paymaster, I
started for the capital.

The distance from La Libertad is only about
thirty-six miles, but as the roads were heavy,
being a foot deep in dust, and the hills were so
steep, our progress was painfully slow, and by
nightfall we only reached a village half way,
where we obtained comfortable quarters and
supper.

A native family flying from San Salvador to the
coast, magnanimously insisted on our occupying
the only beds in the house, whilst they slept in
the open air. In the morning we expressed our
gratitude for this disinterested kindness, when
they coolly explained to us that they preferred
the open air, as they fully expected that the
house, which had been much shaken and

IN THE PACIFIC. 159

cracked by the earthquake, would fall during
the night.

Kefreshed by a cup of excellent coffee, we again
started in our coach, and reached Santa Tecla,
a considerable town, three leagues distant from
the capital, by eight o'clock. This place showed
signs of having been severely shaken; many
houses were cracked, but none were actually
thrown down ; the town and all the roads lead-
ing to it were crowded with poor families
leaving San Salvador, carrying all their worldly
goods with them; the bullock- drivers were
doing a roaring trade, charging ten dollars for
what they would do for one under ordinary
circumstances.

Driving through Santa Tecla, we pushed on
for the capital ; partaking in the coach of a good
breakfast which had been provided for us by the
thoughtful kindness of Captain Searle of the
" Winchester."

As we approached the city, signs of de-
struction became apparent, a massive aqueduct
which had spanned the road, and by which the

160 SPORTING ADVENTUKES

city was mainly supplied, was broken down, its
ruins almost blocking up the road, so that we
had some difficulty in passing. From this place
till we reached the suburbs of the city, our
progress was constantly interrupted by the
debris of the fallen houses which had once lined
the road on either side, till at last the driver
stopped and declared he would go no farther.
By alternate threats and persuasion, however,
we got him to drive into the plaza, where the
President and many of the inhabitants were
encamped.

We at once waited upon his Excellency, and
made known to him the object of our visit,
assuring him of the sympathy of her Majesty's
Government, and placing our services together
with the ship at his disposal. The President,
Field Marshal Santiago Gonzales, a fine old
soldier, received us with much cordiality, and
expressed in the warmest terms his gratification
and astonishment at the offer of assistance from
so unexpected a quarter.

Having paid our respects to the President, we

IN THE PACIFIC.

161

made our way, with considerable difficulty, to
what had once been the British Consulate, but
what was now a heap of ruins, with the English
flag flying from a flagstaff in the midst. Here
we found the acting Vice-Consul, Mr. Blair,
assisted by a few other English gentlemen,

THE ENGLISH CONSULATE AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE OF SAN SALVADOR.

working with a will to save what they could
out of the wreck.

They gave us a hearty welcome, and insisted
on our taking up our quarters with them in a
rude kind of tent which had been pitched in the

M

162 'SPOUTING ADVENTURES

courtyard of the Consulate ; we then proceeded
together to make an inspection of the ruins.
It was indeed a sad scene of desolation : the
once thriving city, containing originally 40,000
inhabitants, was completely destroyed; as the
captain of the port truly said, it no longer
existed.

Curiously enough, the only two houses left
standing were built of wood, showing very
clearly the great advantage of that material
over stone for withstanding earthquake shocks:
one of these was an hotel and the other
a clerical institution, and they were completely
gutted. The palace, built partly of wood and
partly of stone, was completely destroyed ; the
wooden part still remained, but the stone had
fallen, leaving great gaps in the building. All
the substantially-built stone buildings, including
several churches and the cathedral, the walls of
which were of immense thickness, were a mass
of ruins ; the spire of the latter remained in the
position I have endeavoured to represent in my
sketch. One of the bells must have been

IN THE PACIFIC.

163

swung completely round, and remained mouth
up.

It appeared that the first violent shock took
place on the 4th of March, destroying many

THE CATHEDRAL, SAN SALVADOR, AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE.

houses, and that the quaking of the earth con-
tinued at intervals till the 19th when at
two a. m. there were two slight shoqks, fol-
lowed soon afterwards by a very violent one,
which completed the destruction of the city.

164 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Fortunately, owing to the previous shocks,
many of the residents had left the place, and
the others were mostly living in the courtyards
of their houses, or had camped out in the plaza,
so that the loss of life, though considerable,
was not nearly so great as it might have been.
Mr. Biddle, the resident minister for the United
States, had a very narrow escape ; his house had
fallen like the rest, and he had barely time to
save himself and his five little children by rush-
ing into the patio, before the walls fell. An
English lady had also a miraculous escape ; she
was sleeping in the consulate when the great
shock took place ; the walls fell, and the room
she was in was completely wrecked, she must
have been killed but for some of the beams
which lodged diagonally across the room, and
thus prevented the walls from crushing her.

Accounts differed as to the number killed and
wounded, and the truth could not be ascer-
tained, as many bodies lay buried under the
ruins. In the hospital many poor wretches
owing to their infirmities were unable to escape,

IN THE PACIFIC. 165

and were killed by the falling walls ; and some
prisoners, who were being removed from gaol,
were killed in the same way.

In some places the earth had opened, leaving
great yawning fissures, and many graves had
been rent asunder and the bodies exposed ; in
consequence of this it was at one time appre-
hended that an epidemic would be added to the
other horrors. The action of the Government
during this terrible time was most praiseworthy.
The President having removed his family to
Santa Tecla established himself under canvas
in the plaza, and by his admirable regulations,
and the discipline which he enforced, main-
tained order. The city was placed under
martial law, and by a Government decree
citizens were authorized to shoot any one inter-
fering with their property, or even being found
with property in their possession of which they
could give no satisfactory account. These may
seem severe measures, but any one acquainted
with the lawless condition of such countries
must be aware of their necessity. Sentries were

166 SPOETING ADVENTUKES

placed at the corners of the streets, with orders
to fire at any one lurking about after dark ; and
judging by the way the rifle balls whistled about
during the night they must have kept a bright
look-out.

During our stay in the city — some forty-eight
hours — we experienced seven or eight shocks of
earthquake of more or less severity; they seemed
to come on about sunset and again at daybreak.
These did no further damage, indeed there was
not much more that could be done, unless the
earth opened and swallowed us all up ; with this
we were actually threatened, some of the cracks
being of considerable width and depth. Notwith-
standing these warnings, a decree was issued by
order of the President on the day following the
disaster, saying that the city would be rebuilt
upon its old site. One cannot help admiring the
pluck of the old soldier, — a quality, however,
which when carried to excess smacks somewhat
of obstinacy. The city of San Salvador had
already been entirely destroyed by earthquakes
no less than eight times within 150 years,

IN THE PACIFIC. 167

besides being partially ruined every ninth year ;
the last time it was destroyed was in 1854, and
now again in 1873. The ground on which the
city is built is a mere shell, and produces a
hollow sound when struck by a heavy object ; it
is said that the Indians would never build on
that site, and it is certainly tempting Providence
to do so. San Salvador has no less than seven
volcanoes within a radius of thirty miles of it ;
the mountain of Ysalco was in full blast during
this time, but the suppressed volcano of St.
Thomas was supposed to be the one which did
the mischief.

The effect produced upon the nervous system
by these constant shocks was such that several
persons became insane, and upon animals and
birds it was remarkable; many horses and
mules were rendered useless from fright, and
trembled at the slightest sound; at every shock
cocks crowed, and pigeons left their resting-
places and wheeled wildly in the air.

During these calamities considerable sym-
pathy was shown for the poor Salvadorians

168 SPORTING ADVENTURES

from all parts of the country, one city alone
contributing 100 cart-loads of provisions and
3000 dollars in cash. It was not much that we
could do in this way, as we were already
running short of provisions, but we landed all
that we could spare, reserving for ourselves
barely sufficient to carry us to Panama. The
services of Doctor Smyth were happily not
needed, most of the wounded having been re-
moved feito the country ; the President, the
American Minister, and the English Consul all
gratefully declined to take shelter on board, or
to be removed to another place, bravely pre-
ferring to remain at their posts ; so, as there
was no object in remaining longer in the city,
we prepared to return to the ship.

Already carpenters were at work erecting
temporary sheds in the plaza, the people were
recovering from the depression into which they
had been thrown, and a military band played in
the evening as if nothing had happened. It
was arranged that Smyth and Davy should
return by the coach, and that Mr. Blair, the

IN THE PACIFIC. 169

Vice-Consul, and myself should ride. Saying
farewell to the gallant old President and our
assembled friends, we mounted our horses and
rode clear of the city. We first went to the
sugar estate of Monte Christo, where we re-
ceived a hearty welcome- from Mr. Bogen, the
proprietor ; his house had been destroyed and
the chimney of the factory had fallen down, and
the family were camped out under the trees.

Mr. Biddle, the American Minister, was stay-
ing here with his children, the little ones were
playing about, happily unconscious of the terrible
danger they had escaped. After an excellent
breakfast we took leave of our hospitable enter-
tainers, and accompanied by Mr. Biddle, reached
La Libertad after a ride of five hours. The
country between San Salvador and the coast is
mountainous and thickly wooded, many of the
trees are of immense size, but the timber is of
little or no value ; wherever the hill sides have
been cleared, sugar, coffee, tobacco, and maize
have been planted, and seemed to thrive luxu-
riantly.

170 SPORTING ADVENTURES

During our absence the sea had risen con-
siderably, and we found the ship rolling heavily
at her anchor, warning us that it was time to
be off. The American Minister and Mr. Blair
spent the night on board, and landed the next
morning under the salutes due to their re-
spective ranks. The same day, having em-
barked a few refugees, we sailed for Fonseca
Bay, and anchored off Amapala the following
morning. The town, or rather village, of
Amapala is built on Tiger Island, one of the
largest in the bay ; it was selected as the
terminus of the railway, projected across the
continent of Nicaragua, but if one might judge
from the condition of the railway plant which
was lying about, it will be a very long time
before the undertaking is completed.

We were told that game was to be found on
the island of Zacate Grande, the largest of the
group, and conveniently near to the anchorage ;
so I took the opportunity whilst the coaling
was going on to pay it a visit, accompanied by
E and my coxswain. We left the ship

IN THE PACIFIC. 171

before daylight, taking with us two Indians, a
pair of ill-conditioned looking fellows, as guides.
Landing at daylight, we commenced the ascent
of the mountain, leaving one of the Indians be-
hind to join us afterwards, as we understood.
There was no path whatever, so we followed up
the dry bed of a water-course : it was terribly
hard work, and our progress was continually
interrupted by large boulders and dense thorny
jungle. After toiling upwards for several hours
we reached an open space near the top, where
the sun poured its fierce rays upon us ; no game
or even trace of any could we see, so after
anathematizing our guide we commenced the
descent. This proved to be nearly as bad as
the ascent, and to make matters worse we lost
our way and suffered a good deal from want of
water. The heat was so great that the Indian
vomited; but what concerned me more was that
my retriever Rose did so likewise; however, after
blundering about for some time we caught sight
of the boat and reached the beach thoroughly
exhausted, and profoundly disgusted with our

172 SPORTING ADVENTURES

excursion and the incapacity of our guide. Our
complimentary remarks in the choicest Spanish
were quite lost upon this individual, and to the
terms of endearment which we applied to him in
English he was equally impervious. "We found
also that the other Indian had played us false,
and taking his gun had gone hunting on his
own account, leaving his clothes to show that
he meant to return ; the rascal no doubt knew
where the game was likely to be found, and had
sent us off on a fool's errand in the opposite
direction. I think, however, that we squared
accounts with him in the long-run, for leaving a
ship's biscuit and a bottle of water by the side
of his clothes, we took to the boat and returned
on board, leaving him to reflect upon the base
ingratitude of his conduct, and of the advisa-
bility of being more civil to Englishmen in
future.

We were given to understand that his wife
used some rather strong language when she
found that her lord and master was left on the
island, but as we sailed the next morning before

IN THE PACIFIC. 173

daylight we never heard how or when this
interesting couple were reunited.

After touching for a few hours at the small
port of Realego to land a mail we proceeded
on to Panama, where we arrived on April 3rd.

We found orders awaiting us from Admiral
Hillyar, our new Commander-in-Chief, to refit,
and to proceed to Vancouver's Island, a prospect
which we all hailed with delight after our long
spell in the tropics.

We had not been twenty-four hours in port
before a revolution broke out on shore, and the
rifle-balls were flying about the streets in all
directions. Fortunately order was restored
without much bloodshed, a few black soldiers
only being killed.

There are few places more beautiful than the
Bay of Panama. Seen on a calm day, with its
lovely islets reflected on the water, it will bear
comparison with the finest tropical scenery in
the world. The anchorage, though perfectly
safe, is a bad one, for although the bay is of
great extent, there are so many rocks and

174 SPORTING ADVENTURES

shoals in it, that the actual anchoring space is
limited; it is, moreover, so shallow, that large
ships have to anchor three or four miles from
the town ; and even in the " Reindeer," drawing
only fourteen feet of water, we could not
approach nearer than one mile.

The City of Panama is a picturesque, tumble-
down old place ; it is very dirty, and is seen at
a great advantage from a distance. The town
was originally built some miles to the eastward
of the present site, but was destroyed by
Morgan, the buccaneer; and the ruins may
still be seen. The climate is hot and unplea-
sant all the year round, and the place has the
reputation of being unhealthy, although we did
not find it so. Indeed many of the ailments
common to Panama are, I suspect, more often
due to " cocktails " (a mixture of brandy, ice,
bitters, sugar, and lemon) than to climate.

Now cocktails are very insinuating things
when cleverly prepared, and, with the ther-
mometer at 90° in the shade, are not to be
despised. They should, however, be indulged

IN THE PACIFIC. 175

in moderately. The question is what is con-
sidered moderation. One individual assured
me that he was obliged to be very abstemious,
and that he seldom indulged in more than
eight cocktails before breakfast, though he
admitted to have taken fourteen on one
occasion.

The distance between Panama and Colon by
rail is forty- seven miles, and the scenery en
route is very fine. Starting from Panama, the
line gradually ascending winds its way through
dense forests, until the summit is reached, at
the village of Matachin, when it descends to
the Atlantic shore. The stations on the line
are excessively pretty ; they are built of wood,
with broad verandahs around; each has its
little garden tastefully laid out with fruit-trees
and flowers.

Colon is a miserable place, and is more un-
healthy than Panama, owing to the swamps at
the back of the town. A little excitement is
created on the arrival and departure of the mail
steamers, when many "cocktails" are con-

176 SPORTING ADVENTURES

sumed, after which the place relapses into its
usual stagnant condition.

After a short stay at Panama we ran down to
Taboga to coal and give leave to our men.

This lovely island is about nine miles from
Panama; it is generally resorted to by her
Majesty's ships, as the anchorage is good,
and vessels may lie within gunshot of the
shore in safety. The town has fallen to decay
since the Pacific Steam Navigation Company
have withdrawn their works to Callao, and the
inhabitants are of the lowest class. A supply of
coal is usually kept here by the above Company
for the use of her Majesty's ships, for which they
are charged from twenty-five to thirty dollars per
ton. Considering that coal could be brought
out from England and placed alongside her
Majesty's ships in the Bay of Panama for seven-
teen dollars per ton it must be admitted that we
pay dearly for the accommodation. This is no
random statement, but is based on calculations
made by myself, and includes freight from
Cardiff, the cost of discharging at Colon, trans-

IN THE PACIFIC. 177

porting across the isthmus by rail, storing at
Panama, and lighterage for bringing it along-
side. I am, of course, supposing the prices to
be the same as at the time of our visit.

Taboga is mountainous, and well wooded;
here and there spaces have been cleared away
on the slopes of the hills for the cultivation of
pine-apples, which grow to great perfection,
both on this island and on the neighbouring one
of Taboquilla. From the flag-staff at the top of
the island a fine view may be obtained of the
Bay of Panama, and on a clear day the Pearl
Islands may also be seen.

N

CHAPTER IX.

ON the 30th of April we sailed for Vancouver's
Island. There are several ways of making this
passage, depending upon the season of the year,
the style of vessel, and the fancy of the captain.
With an auxiliary steamer, carrying a good sup-
ply of coal, probably the quickest way would be,
after clearing the Gulf of Panama, to steam
along the coast of Central America until suffi-
cient northing had been made to insure picking
up the north-east trade wind, when one should
stand out from the land ; the trade would pro-
bably be picked up about 200 miles from the
coast, and the ship placed under canvas. This
plan would necessarily entail a considerable ex-
penditure of coal, — a rare and expensive article
in the Pacific.

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC. 179

The other route, and the one generally
adopted, is to stand to the southward after
leaving the Bay of Panama, until the south-east
trade is met with, even though you may have
to cross the equator to do it : having picked up
the south-east trade, run along parallel to the
line until sufficient westing is made, when haul
up to the northward for the northern trade.
The " Reindeer" being a smart ship under
canvas, with but little capacity for carrying
coal, we preferred the latter route. The great
object in either case is to make westing, and an
intermediate course between the two routes
would entail a tedious passage, owing to the
vexatious calms and contrary currents which
prevail in and about the latitude of Panama.
A strong current sets out of the Gulf of
Panama on its western shore, and a corre-
sponding one sets in on the eastern, so that
either of them can be made use of, according as
one is bound in or out of the gulf. Ten days
after leaving Panama we found ourselves be-
calmed one lovely morning in sight of our old

N 2

180 SPOET[KG AD VENTURES

acquaintances tlie Galapagos Islands. As the
sun rose, dispelling the haze which often hangs
over the high land of this group, we were able to
make out the different islands more distinctly.
Indefatigable Island lay right ahead, with
James' on the one bow, and Barrington on the
other. Charles Island we could not see, on
account of the distance. A breeze springing
up enabled us to head up for the latter, and we
looked forward to visiting our old quarters in
Post-Office Bay, and seeing the Colonel again,
but the wind drawing ahead, combined with the
strong current sweeping us to leeward, pre-
vented this arrangement ; so we bore away, and
running under the lee of Indefatigable, anchored
in Conway Harbour the same afternoon. This
island is one of the largest of the group, being
second only to Albemarle ; it is nearly round,
mountainous towards the centre, and sloping
gradually to the sea on all sides. Like all the
islands of this group, with the exception of
Charles, Indefatigable is uninhabited. The
anchorage at Conway Bay is exceedingly good,

IN THE PACIFIC. 181

and the water is so clear that we could see our
anchor laying on the bottom in ten fathoms.
The shore looked rather inviting, and I landed

with the Doctor and C to examine it ; but

after clambering about over cinders and decom-
posed lava, we were glad to take to the boat
again and fish. We had capital sport, and
caught numbers of large rock cod and other
beautifully-marked fish, but the sharks and dog-
fish were so numerous that they carried off all
our gear, obliging us to return on board. The
next day several shooting and fishing parties
were organized and despatched in all directions.
Many beautiful doves were seen, of a kind
peculiar to these islands, and so tame were they
that several might have been killed at a shot.
We found two sorts of iguanas, the marine
species and the land ; the former are most
repulsive-looking reptiles ; they feed almost en-
tirely on sea-weed, and are always to be found
basking on the rocks near the water; their
colour so closely resembles that of the black
scoria3 that it is very difficult to distinguish

182 SPORTING ADVENTURES

them. The other kind are handsome creatures,
very much like an ordinary lizard on a large
scale, and very brilliantly marked; this sort
feed on cactus, and both kinds are excellent
eating. We saw no terrapin, although they are
said to be on the island ; probably they inhabit
the higher parts, where they find moisture.

From Con way Harbour we ran down before
the brisk trade wind to James' Island, and
dropped our anchor in James' Bay. On our
way across we passed through an immense
herd of sea-lions and seals, they were gambol-
ling about and evidently enjoying themselves,
and seemed greatly astonished at the ship as
she rushed through their midst.

James' Island is by far the prettiest of the
group; unlike the others, the mountains are
densely wooded from the summit to the base,
excepting at one place where the burning lava
has evidently poured down the mountain side
into the sea, destroying every tree and shrub
in its course. The anchorage in James' Bay is
a good one, though not so good as at Conway

IN THE PACIFIC. 183

Harbour; several extinct volcanoes can be seen,
some of fantastic form and of great height.

Accompanied again by the Doctor and C ,

I landed for a stroll with the gun ; there was a
belt of mangrove bushes along the beach where
we landed, behind which was a salt-water
lagoon.

Peeping through the bushes, we saw, to our
surprise, a flock of teal, and two lovely rose-
coloured flamingo; a right and left soon dis-
posed of the latter, when I waded into the
lagoon after the teal, with Rose swimming
alongside me. The birds, probably never
having seen a human being before, were
absurdly tame, and kept flying overhead and
around me, keeping my breechloader actively
employed, and giving my coxswain and Rose
ample occupation in gathering the slain. There
were four more flamingo in the lagoon, three of
which were brought to bag, the total result
being twenty-four teal and five flamingo. The

Doctor and C not having their guns with

them were unable to join in the battue. The

184 SPORTING ADVENTUEES

teal were excellent, and the flamingo are said
to be also very good eating ; but of this we
were not aware until too late, when their bodies
had been thrown away, only their beautiful
skins being preserved. The tongue of the
flamingo was esteemed as a great delicacy by
the Roman emperors, and we had the five
tongues cooked, but we failed to discover any-
thing particularly recherche about them. The
next day a party of sportsmen landed and
disposed of eight or ten brace more teal, whilst
I, with the same companions, ran down the
coast, to see if we could find fresh water where
it was so marked on the chart. We found the
place, but no water, although in the rainy season
there must be plenty, as the rocks bore unmis-
takeable traces of having been swept by a
mountain torrent. Pursuing our course in the
boat, we came across what is called a seal
rookery, where several of these animals were
basking; with our rifles we killed seven or
eight of them before they reached the water,
but we had some difficulty in getting them into

IN THE PACIFIC. 185

the boat, owing to the heavy swell breaking on
the rocks. One young seal defended its
mother's dead body with such bravery and
determination that I could not pass it to bend
the line on to the carcase. This touching
incident, added to the fact that their skins
though extremely pretty were not of great
value, made me regret that we had killed any
of them, and I determined from henceforth
never to shoot another.

We succeeded in capturing one young seal
alive, notwithstanding a very vigorous resist-
ance; he was transferred to the ship, and
comfortably established in the copper punt,
which was prepared for his reception. The
seals which we shot were females, with one
exception ; this one was so heavy that it took
four men to lift him.

The fishing here was even better than at
Indefatigable Island, and we were not so much
troubled with sharks ; many of the fish were so
heavy that they broke our tackle or straightened
the hooks. We caught one beauty of a bright

186 SPORTING ADVENTURES

canary colour, weighing twenty pounds ; I tried
to preserve this fish, but the colour faded.

Whilst we were at anchor off a point fishing
we heard a great commotion in the water to
seaward, and looking in that direction we saw
a shoal of gar, or pipe fish, making towards the
boat in a succession of frantic leaps, closely
pursued by two enormous fish, which seemed
intent upon their capture; so terrified were
the wretched gar fish that they rushed head-
long against the boat, rattling on her side like
a shower of grape shot, and leaving many of
their number dead upon the surface.

We soon afterwards returned on board, and
getting under weigh we ran through the
channel separating James' Island from the
adjacent one of Albemarle.

Our seal lived for ten days in the punt, which
was regularly filled with salt water every morn-
ing and drawn off after it had had its bath. It
refused the only food we had to offer, indeed it
was not to be expected that it would take
kindly to a regimen of salt beef and biscuit, and

IN THE PACIFIC. 187

it must have died of starvation had it not
escaped overboard one dark night when we
were more than 1000 miles from the nearest
land. During the animal's residence on board
we had ample opportunity for observing its
habits ; it was apparent to us that these crea-
tures prefer to be dry and warm, and only take
to the water in search of food. This one spent
most of its time sleeping in the bows of the
punt, occasionally scrambling out to have a
look round the ship or gazing wistfully over the
side as though it longed to plunge overboard,
but feared to do so on account of the water
rushing so swiftly past. The hind flippers are
not unlike a pair of black kid gloves tied
together at the wrists, and when moving about
the deck the seal looked ridiculously like a man
laying on his stomach with his feet tied together,
propelling himself forward by his elbows. These
creatures are known to be very affectionate, and
this one frequently sighed and looked at us in
the most sentimental manner, as though longing
to be restored to the bosom of its family. I

188 SPORTING ADVENTURES

was not sorry when it escaped, although I
question very much if it ever found its way
home again. After a pleasant run of forty days
from the Galapagos we sighted Cape Flattery
Light, at the entrance of the Straits of San Juan
de Fuca, and on the 22nd of June we anchored
in the snug harbour of Esquimalt, Vancouver's
Island.

To my mind Vancouver is one of the most
delightful of our colonies, combining as it does
the rare attractions of pleasant society, lovely
scenery, and good sport with rod and gun. It
is true that we arrived there at the very best
time of the year, when the climate is perfect,
and picnic and dinner parties were the order of
the day, to be followed in due season by salmon
and trout fishing and deer, grouse, and wild-
fowl shooting. To us the mere fact of hearing
English spoken, meeting English people, and
rosy-faced girls and children, was refreshing
after a long spell in tropical climates, where we
had been heartily sick of the everlasting black
hair and eyes of the senoritas, and the constant

IN THE PACIFIC. 189

talk of dollars, cocktails, and revolutions from
morning till night.

We came to Vancouver prepared to be
pleased, so no wonder it was all couleur de rose
with us. The road from Esquimalt to the town
of Victoria is pretty enough, but is sadly dis-
figured by the numerous pot- shops which line
each side of it, offering irresistible temptations
to poor Jack when he goes on shore. There
are some good shops in the town, and many
pretty villas standing in their own grounds,
with well laid -out gardens in the neighbourhood.
The Government house is substantially built,
and commands a magnificent view of the straits
and of the adjacent island of San Juan, with
the mountains of British Columbia in the back-
ground.

The harbour of Esquimalt is perfect, and so
well sheltered that the day after our arrival
we placed the ship on the beach and thoroughly
repaired her stem where it had been damaged
by the ice in the Straits of Magellan.

About the month of July the salmon make

190 SPORTING ADVENTURES

their appearance in the harbour in chace of
shoals of herrings. The usual way to take salmon
in these waters is to troll with a spoon bait,
veered about sixty to eighty yards astern of
the boat; the pace should not exceed two or
three miles an hour; the best time is about
daybreak, and again at sundown. The Indians
use a herring bait, and they bend the line on to
their paddle, which communicates a twist to the
bait at every stroke ; for herrings they use an
iron rake, which they plunge into the shoal, and
literally rake the fish into the canoe. There
is capital sea-trout fishing at the mouths of
the lagoons, with fly ; the fish take best at the
turn of the tide, and good trout may also be
taken in any of the numerous lakes in the island.
Grouse-shooting commenced on the 1st of
August, but long before that date the popping
of guns might be heard in the woods round
about Esquimalt; the midshipmen of course
had the credit of this, and probably they were
not altogether guiltless, but most of it was due
to the Indian pot-hunters, who armed with an

IN THE PACIFIC. 191

old musket skulk about the woods, shooting
grouse on the trees, and disposing of them in
the market at Victoria.

These Indians are a very degraded race,
more especially near the towns, where civiliza-
tion in the form of whisky and disease have
been brought to bear on them ; the women are
repulsively ugly, and heighten their loathsome
appearance by painting their faces vermilion.
The Indians of the interior are said to be very
superior to those near the coast : they are
wonderfully clever at carving in wood ; their
canoes are the most beautiful models, and it is
supposed that the lines of the first American
clipper ship were taken from one of them. They
are also expert in the manufacture of gold and
silver ornaments, and are capital miners, and
among some of the tribes cannibalism may be
added to their other accomplishments.

Two kinds of grouse are to be found in the
woods of Vancouver's Island, the blue and the
willow grouse; the former are fine birds of a dark
slate colour ; they are generally to be met with

192 SPORTING ADVENTURES

on the high ground, and give excellent sport
if shot on the wing and not potted on the tree,
to which they invariably fly when flushed. The
willow grouse is a -smaller and handsomer bird,
and inhabits the low, swampy ground ; it is
said to be the best eating of the two.

Black-tailed deer are also plentiful, especially
about the neighbourhood of Green or Skirt
Mountains, and indeed everywhere except in the
immediate vicinity of Esquimalt, where they are
much disturbed. I have seen as many as eight
to ten in a day's shooting within a few miles
of the ship. They may be killed either with
the rifle or smooth bore. I prefer the latter,
one barrel loaded with ball, the other with
buck shot, for a snap shot ^in the woods. The
deer lay very close, often jumping up out of
the bracken at one's feet, when the buck shot
will generally roll them over ; but should that
fail, they invariably run for the highest ground,
and stand still for a few moments, giving time
for the second barrel. Should they not do so
of their own accord, a shrill whistle or shouting

IN THE PACIFIC. 193

at them will often stop them. These animals
are so much the colour of the surrounding
rocks and bracken that unless one is accustomed
to their appearance and habits it is often not
easy to distinguish them, especially as they
frequently stand perfectly still, looking at one,
until the danger is passed. There are several
ways of killing deer in Vancouver ; some gen-
tlemen in Victoria keep hounds, and drive them
to the guns, which are posted to command the
passes ; another way is to drive them into the
water, where they are easily killed ; the settlers
also lay in wait for them at night, and shoot
them when they come to feed on their crops ;
but the most sportsmanlike plan is to stalk
them on the bare hill-tops, where they resort in
the early mornings and evenings, or go into
the woods, where they are to be found during
the heat of the day, and take the chance of
springing them. During the beginning of
August I had several days' shooting in com-
pany with one of the officers of the flagship,
a capital sportsman and a good shot; we usually

o

194 SPORTING ADVENTURES

brought back from ten to fifteen brace of
grouse, and a few duck, and now and then a
deer ; this may be considered a good bag for
two guns : a dog is indispensable, probably a
close-working retriever is about the best. In
the middle of August we proceeded in the
ship to Horseshoe Bay, about fifty miles from
Esquimalt, to collect and bring down spars for
the dockyard. Streaming through the channel
which divides the Island of San Juan from
Vancouver, we threaded our way amongst
lovely islets and romantic scenery, and arrived
in a few hours at our destination.

Horseshoe Bay, as one would suppose from
the name, is an excellent harbour, sheltered
from all winds; one solitary house and a saw-
mill are alone visible from the anchorage ; the
settlement at Chemainus is about three miles
distant. The timber at this part of the island
is as fine if not superior to any on the coast,
many of the trees are 200 feet high and as
straight as a candle ; one not far from Chemainus
measured fifty-seven feet in circumference,

IN THE PACIFIC. 195

ten feet from the ground ; the top of this tree
had been blown off, otherwise it would have
been fully 300 feet high. The biggest trees
are by no means the best for ships' use; the one
selected for a fore yard for the " Repulse " was
a beautiful spar, without a branch, and scarcely
a knot for the first 100 feet from the ground ;
the price asked for this spar was only 25?. the
same tree would have been worth 400Z. at
Valparaiso.

There is good sport to be had in the neigh-
bourhood of Chemainus, both deer, and grouse ;
and ducks are to be found in great numbers on
the flats at the mouth of the river; but the
best sport is to be got on " Admiral " and
" Thetis " Islands, a few miles from the anchor-
age at Horseshoe Bay, as the grouse are not
often shot there, and the deer swim off to them
to escape from panthers, which infest the woods
on the mainland.

One day whilst shooting with an officer of the
" Repulse," who had come with me for the trip,
we happened to look in at a farm-house to ask

o 2

196 SPORTING ADVENTURES

for a glass of water, or milk if we could get it.
The old lady of trie house was busy making
butter, and had apparently turned out the
wrong side, so our reception was not of the
most cordial character. My poor old dog Rose
was the first to catch it, she had taken up her
quarters under the table, from which she was
speedily ousted with the butt end of a broom-
stick, which we half expected would be applied
to oar shoulders afterwards. However, after
being well rated for a pair of poachers, we were
given a glass of skimmed milk, and took our
departure. The next Sunday after this many
of the neighbouring farmers with their wives
and families came on board the ship at my
invitation to attend Divine Service, and dine
with me afterwards. To our great amusement,
among the earliest of the arrivals was our
excitable hostess, arrayed in her holiday best ;
the poor old lady's horror and astonishment at
finding that the two dirty-looking poachers
were officers in her Majesty's service was
amusing. But to make matters worse, whilst

IN THE PACIFIC. 197

we were at dinner a dog was reported to be
swimming off to the ship. I gave orders to
receive the animal and give him some food;
presently a big shaggy poodle, dripping with
wet, came down into the cabin, wagging his
tail and evidently much pleased with his recep-
tion. The old lady at once recognized her
favourite dog, and exclaiming, " Why it's my
Peter," went off into hysterics. Her apologies
for having treated us so shabbily were rather
embarrassing. However we pacified her by
promising that we would look in again, should
we ever pass her door. Some time afterwards
we did pay her a visit ; needless to say we met
with a very different reception : old Rose was
treated to as much milk as she could stow, and
my coxswain sent away staggering under a
cargo of fruit, eggs, and butter enough to last
us a fortnight. There is good trout-fishing in
the Chemainus river, and salmon also frequent
it. One of the settlers showed us the water,
and also the latest style of fly-fishing. Having
hooked a trout of two pounds, he turned his

198 SPORTING ADVENTURES

back upon the river and walked up the bank
with his rod over his shoulder, dragging out the
fish by the " hair of the head." In one pool we
saw several large salmon, which we tried in vain

to catch ; my companion C rose one to the

fly and hooked it, but it broke away. This
proves that salmon in Vancouver will rise to a
fly, a fact which has always been disputed. As
soon as our spars were ready we shipped all the
smaller ones, and making a raft of the others,
towed them astern and returned to Esquimalt.
Our experience of the sport to be obtained
at Horseshoe Bay induced me, not long
after this, to go back there on a fortnight's
leave ctf absence. On this occasion I was

accompanied by C , of her Majesty's ship

" Repulse," my coxswain, and old Rose ; we
embarked on board a small steamer plying
between Victoria and Nanaimo, taking with us
a light skiff to carry us across to the islands.

During this visit we were the guests of Mr.
and Mrs. Askew, of Horseshoe Bay, and enjoyed
some excellent sport, bagging in one day

IN THE PACIFIC. 199

twenty-two brace of grouse, and two deer on
Thetis Island; we also had some good duck-
shooting and trout-fishing at Chemainus, re-
turning to Esquimalt much pleased with our
expedition and the hospitality of our kind host
and hostess. By this time the grouse had been
pretty well thinned in the neighbourhood of
Esquimalt; so I turned my attention more
especially to the deer, and spent much of my
spare time hunting in the woods, accompanied
only by my coxswain. We generally landed
before daylight, and by going very quietly to
work and firing at nothing but deer we often
managed to bag one before we had been many
hours from the ship. One evening I wounded
a deer near Tyler's farm, where I was putting up;
so we went back to the house for a dog which
they had there. Putting the animal on the
trail he led us to a thick clump of bushes, when
out jumped a beautiful buck, which I shot ; this
deer weighed 136 pounds clean : the wounded
one escaped. On another occasion we had
hunted all the morning without success, when

200 SPORTING ADVENTURES

finding ourselves on the top of Green Mountain,
we dislodged a large boulder, which bounded
from ledge to ledge into the valley below ; the
noise startled a splendid buck which had been
lying down below us, and which we never
should have seen but for this ruse; unfor-
tunately I only got a glimpse of the beast's
head, and missed it clean.

A retired army officer used to live at Elk
Lake, some miles from Victoria, and I paid him
a visit at his invitation to have a day's hunting
together. He lived in a small hut built with
his own hands, on the borders of the lake ; the
site was well chosen with a view to sport, at
the back of the hut were dense woods extending
in every direction, and reaching down to the
water's edge. The lake was well stocked with
trout, and wild fowl frequented it in the winter.
I received a cordial welcome from the captain,
and two magnificent hounds greeted my arrival
with howls of delight. It was arranged that I
should take a rickety old canoe which lay on
the beach, and paddle into the middle of the

IN THE PACIFIC. 201

lake, while the captain hunted in the woods.
Taking up my position I had leisure to admire
the scene, which was most beautiful ; the lake
was as calm as a millpond, and every rock and
tree was reflected as in a mirror ; the old craft,
however, leaked so badly that I had to devote
my attention to keeping her afloat. Presently
I heard the hounds baying and the captain
swearing, at least so it sounded to me, then the
dogs gave tongue again, their voices echoing
from shore to shore ; the sound gradually died
away, and I concluded that a deer had been
started, but had gone in the wrong direction,
away from the water. I waited patiently,
listening for the slightest sound, and at last,
long after I had given up any hope of getting a
shot, I heard a crash among the rushes at the
far end of the lake, and presently saw some-
thing gliding along the water, leaving a long
ripple behind it. Knowing that it must be a
deer I paddled in a direction to intercept its
course, and coming nearer made it out to be a
buck swimming boldly for the opposite shore.

202 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Deer present but a small mark in the water, as
only the head and horns are visible, and the
only result of the two barrels which I fired was
to turn the animal back towards the shore he
had just left. The deer swam so fast it was
hard work to keep up to it, and the canoe
leaked so badly that it was doubtful if it would
float much longer, but there was no time to
bale, so I worked hard with my paddle, and just
as the deer was striking soundings, I crammed
in a couple of cartridges and rolled it over as it
was leaving the water. The captain came up
soon afterwards and was pleased with the result,
as he had lost the trail and was going home. I
paid him another visit shortly afterwards, when
I was posted down by the sea shore with my
coxswain, as the deer sometimes took that way,
the captain hunting in the woods as before.
The hounds soon started a deer, which led them
away from where I was posted ; hours passed,
the rain came down in torrents, and we were
consoling ourselves for our bad luck with a pipe,
when we saw a deer come out of the wood half

IN THE PACIFIC. 203

a mile off, and deliberately walk into the sea ;
he then trotted along towards us, keeping in the
shallow water, evidently to throw the dogs off
the scent. Now and then he would stop and
listen and then trot on again. We kept per-
fectly still and the deer passed within forty
yards of where we were sitting, when I shot him ;
he proved to be a nice young buck with fair
horns ; we had a hard job to carry him back
through the woods to the hut, turn and turn
about, over our shoulders.

I tried for several nights lying in wait for
deer in the paddocks where they came to feed
on the farmers' crops ; but though I frequently
heard them jumping the palings and feeding
within a few yards of me I never succeeded in
getting a shot, owing to the darkness of the
night. On a moonlight night it must be a sure
and easy way of killing them. It is, however,
cold work, and one is very apt to get a touch of
fever and ague, as I did, for my trouble. An
invaluable recipe for shooting in marshy coun-
tries is a bottle of sherry and quinine mixed, a

204 SPORTING ADVENTURES

preparation which our surgeon thoughtfully
provided me with on all such occasions.

To any one fond of yachting Vancouver
presents unusual attractions. There are many
excellent harbours on the east coast ; the water
is always smooth, and the scenery cannot be
surpassed ; game is abundant, and easy to pro-
cure. To my mind there is nothing to equal
the intense enjoyment of wandering, gun in
hand, in those glorious woods, unfettered by
the presence of an over-fed, velveteen-coated
gamekeeper ; there is a freedom about it which
cannot be obtained in the old country.

As regards settling down, I should hardly
consider Vancouver to be the best place to
choose. Land is difficult to procure, except at
a great distance from Victoria, and labour is
not to be had, unless it be an occasional China-
man, or a rascally Indian ; so that unless a man
be prepared to work with his own hands he had
better go elsewhere.

Our colonies are all more or less thronged
with broken-down gentlemen, who go out with

IN THE PACIFIC. 205

the vague idea of getting something under
Government, or else on the chance of something
turning up. Too often they fail, and are re-
duced to earning their bread in any way they
can.

Vancouver's Island is not singular in this
respect. On one of my shooting expeditions I
came across two poor fellows, encamped under
a rude kind of tent ; one had been an officer in
the army, the other in the navy : their present
employment was breaking stones, or something
equally honest and remunerative. The class of
men wanted in Vancouver are carpenters, black-
smiths, &c., any of whom can earn ten dollars
a day ; even at sawing timber a man can get
forty to forty-five dollars a month in the season.
This fact is the great drawback to the place,
from a naval officer's point of view, for the
temptation to desert is so great that it is almost
impossible to prevent it. Many a silly fellow,
after running all sorts of risks to reach the
American side of the Straits, finds to his cost
that he was far better off on board his ship on

206 SPORTING ADVENTURES

his comparatively small but certain wage. At
Nanaimo there are some extensive coal-mines,
which promise a good return to the fortunate
proprietors ; the coal is cheap and good, but
burns quickly, and makes a terrible smoke.

Doubtless the completion of the railway pro-
jected across the continent of North America,
to connect Canada with British Columbia, will
infuse new life into Vancouver's Island, but at
present there seems to be little probability of
its fulfilment. Towards the latter end of October
we received orders from the admiral to proceed
with all despatch to Panama, to meet some
supernumeraries who were expected there. It
was with much regret that we bade adieu to
our friends in Victoria, for from the popular
governor, Mr. Trutch, as well as from those of
a less exalted position, we had experienced
much kindness and hospitality during our stay
of four months in the colony ; but so it is
always in a sailor's life; one makes friends at
every port, only to part, and seek for new ones
elsewhere.

IN THE PACIFIC. 207

In compliance with our instructions we took
our departure on the 28th of October, and
steaming out of Esquimalt Harbour found our-
selves in a dense fog in the Straits of San Juan
de Fuca. The fog accompanied us almost all
the way to San Francisco, where we arrived
after a quick run of four days. These fogs are
a very serious drawback to the navigation of
this coast. The shores of California, more
especially in the vicinity of San Francisco, are
often enveloped in them for weeks together, and
many a good ship has been lost in consequence
when almost at her destination. The coast is
admirably supplied with lighthouses and power-
ful steam fog-horns ; the latter may be beard
ten miles off on a calm day. So thick was the
fog off the entrance to the port that we passed
through the Golden Gates without seeing the
land on either side, and anchored in the harbour
at daylight of the 1st of November. The fog
cleared away soon afterwards, showing us the
harbour in all its noble proportions, with crowds
of clippers waiting for their cargoes of grain for

208 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Europe. The appearance of San Francisco from
the anchorage is rather disappointing, and it is
not until one has landed and traversed some of
the principal streets that one can realize the
wonderful energy by which a city, second only
to New York or Chicago, has been raised in the
short space of twenty-five years. A consider-
able part of the town is built on land reclaimed
from the sea ; many of the finest houses are
built of stone faced with iron, which gives them
a handsome and substantial appearance. There
are many first-class hotels ; perhaps about the
best is the " Grand," where the charge for board
and lodging is only three dollars a day, or five
if a sitting-room is required. In this respect
the Americans are far ahead of us ; there is not,
to my knowledge, any hc-tel in England which
can compare with a first-rate house in New
York or San Francisco. Owing to the extra-
ordinary temptations offered to seamen to
desert, it is quite out of the question to give
leave to the men to go on shore at San Fran-
cisco. There are hundreds of crimps and land-

IN THE PACIFIC. 209

sharks of every sort, ready to pounce upon the
unfortunate sailor directly he lands, and he
seldom gets beyond the first grog-shop, where
he is speedily drugged, robbed, and smuggled
on board an outward-bound merchant- ship, and
the first thing the poor fellow discovers on
coining to his senses is that he is in blue water,
bound he knows not where, and with but little
chance of redress, as he is branded as a deserter
from her Majesty's service.

The following is a recipe found upon the
person of the proprietor of a Californian drink-
ing saloon. For whisky —

Ten gallons of kerosene,

3 Ibs. of potash,

1 oz. of strychnine,
mixed with soft water. If gin is required, add
quantum sufficit of oil of juniper ! ! !

CHAPTER X.

THERE is much to be seen at San Francisco, but
our very limited stay prevented our visiting
everything; and as soon as the coaling was
finished we sailed for Mazatlan, where we
arrived on the 16th of November, after a pas-
sage of eleven days. Whilst shipping a small
freight which awaited us, I took the opportunity
of paying another visit to the lagoons, accom-
panied by two of the officers ; our united bag
amounted to twenty brace of ducks. We were
unable to get any coal here, so we touched at
San Bias, and laid in a quantity of wood instead.
I took advantage of this delay to run up to

Tepic with Lieutenant B to see our friends

again. The last time we were at Tepic was

SPORTING ADVENTUEES IN THE PACIFIC. 211

immediately before the Revolution, when many
of the principal families were away, and those
that remained were somewhat triste. Now all
was changed; Lousada was dead, and 3000
Government troops were established in the city
under General Ceballos. We met with a very
cordial reception; our old quarters in Mr.
Barren's house were prepa?*ed for us, and a
banquet was given in our honour, followed by a
ball and garden party at Jauga. On taking our
departure the general provided us with a guard
of cavalry, under whose escort we returned to
San Bias, and putting to sea the same night
arrived without further adventure at Panama.

The unfortunate supernumeraries for whom
we had been sent had not arrived, having caught
the yellow fever at Jamaica ; we consequently
had to reconcile ourselves to a delay of some
months at Panama, awaiting further instruc-
tions from the commander-in-chief.

During this delay I had leisure to examine
the different propositions for constructing a
canal across the isthmus of Panama.

p 2

212 SPORTING ADVENTURES

There have been numerous projects for con-
necting the Pacific with the Atlantic Ocean.
Among the schemes which are now considered
to be impracticable are those proposed across
the Isthmus of Tehuantepec ; the Chiriqui route,
in the northern part of the province of Panama ;
the Atrato, and the Darien routes. An exhaus-
tive survey has lately been made by Captain
Selfridge, of the United States Navy, of that
part of the isthmus south of Panama. His plan,
which is commonly called the Napipi route, has
many supporters, but the general opinion is
that even if this route be practicable, the ex-
pense attending it would be so great as to
prevent its ever being carried out.

There are two routes which find favour ; the
one by the lake of Nicaragua, and the other by
the Isthmus of Panama, in the immediate
vicinity of the railway. With regard to the
first, it is maintained that the land about Lake
Nicaragua is lower than on the Isthmus of
Panama, that there is in the lake itself an inex-
haustible reservoir, and an excellent seaport at

IN THE PACIFIC. 213

San Juan del Sur, the proposed terminus on the
Pacific side.

Mons. Lesseps is said to be in favour of this
plan ; lie considers that a canal with weirs can
be easily constructed, and he is, I believe, of
opinion that it is impossible to construct a canal
without weirs in any part of the American
continent.

Against this project it may be said that to
construct a canal with weirs is a most expensive
operation; that they are liable to get out of
order ; that the distance between the two oceans
is greater at Nicaragua than at Panama; and
that there is no good port available on the
Atlantic side.

If a canal with locks be thought practicable,
there seems to be no reason why one should not
be constructed across the Isthmus of Panama
in the vicinity of the railway ; a survey is now
being made to ascertain the best point where
the Chagres Biver can be dammed up, so as to
form a reservoir, with this object in view.
Another plan has been proposed ; namely, to

214 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

construct a tide-level canal from Colon to
Panama. It is generally considered that the
difference in the rise and fall of the tide at these
places offers no serious obstacle to this project.
In fact, the question resolves itself into one of
money ; there can be no doubt about the success
of the undertaking when once the canal is con-
structed. A glance at the map is sufficient to
show the immense amount of traffic which would
be turned through this channel. Much of the
commerce at present carried round Cape Horn
or through the Straits of Magellan would go
through the canal, which would be the most
direct route for ships bound to Australia, China,
Japan, and all ports on the Pacific coast.

CHAPTER XI.

DUBING our stay in Panamanian waters I made
several expeditions in search of sport and
adventure. One of these was to a place called
Obispo, on the Panama Railway.

Having through the courtesy of Mr. Corwine,
the agent for the railway company, obtained a

free pass for E and myself, we started by

the one o'clock train from Panama, and an hour
afterwards drew up at the pretty bungalow
called the Obispo Railway Station, where we
received a hearty welcome from the hospitable
station-master and his wife, who had kindly
invited us to stay with them, as there was no
hotel at the place. It was too late to shoot
that evening ; so we strolled down the banks of

216

SPORTING ADVENTURES

the Cliagres River, disturbing a party of dusky
senoritas who were enjoying a bath. Following
along the course of the stream, we picked up
some very fine jaspers ; these stones, though of

THE OBISPO STATION ON THE PANAMA JIA1LWAY.

no great value, are very handsome, and take a
fine polish. There are some very large fish in
the river, and our host told us that he had seen
them taken up to 100 Ibs. weight. I have no
doubt that good sport might be had with rod

IN THE PACIFIC. 217

and line. After a pleasant evening at the
station we turned in for the night. The next
morning I was surprised to find my lip swollen
to a great size, and I could not imagine what
animal had so unceremoniously refreshed him-
self upon me. A huge spider, with a body as
big as a walnut, got the benefit of the doubt,
and was killed, though I really believe the poor
fellow was innocent. Our hostess said it was
probably done by a vampire bat, as they some-
times came in through the Venetians during the
night.

After a cup of coffee we started for the woods,
and, guided by a native, followed a trail through
the thick jungle for several miles. The heat
was intolerable, notwithstanding that the trees
met overhead, completely obscuring the sun's
rays ; not a breath of air stirred the foliage,
dripping with the rain of the previous night.
The only signs of life were a few humming-
birds and some magnificent butterflies of a deep
cobalt blue, as large as the crown of one's haf.
Presently the rain came down in torrents ; the

218 SPORTING ADVENTURES

lightning flashed ; thunder rolled amongst the
hills ; and we were not sorry when we espied
a solitary hut, where we took refuge from the
storm. The tenant of this hut was a poor
Irishman, who told us he was prospecting the
country for gold ; unlike the generality of his
countrymen he seemed of a sulky disposition,
but a glass of whisky made him more com-
municative. He told us that gold was to be
found in considerable quantities in the moun-
tains near; and he volunteered to show us
where he had been working. Shouldering a
pickaxe he led the way to a secluded spot in the
depth of the forest, a tiny rivulet trickled along
the bottom of the dell, and on each side the
earth had been cleared away. The miner told
us there was plenty of gold far up the hill sides,
but that an hydraulic pump was required to
raise water up to the desired level, to make it
pay for being worked. He then proceeded to
initiate us into the process of gold-washing;
driving his pickaxe apparently at random into
the bank, he shovelled the loose earth into a pan

IN THE PACIFIC. 219

and then washed it in the stream. It was most
interesting to watch how little by little he got
rid of the superfluous rubbish, until nothing
remained but fine black sand interspersed with
tiny specks of gold. The miner washed several
pans of earth, and all contained more or less of
the precious metal ; we also washed a pan or
two ourselves, but should certainly have lost
the gold at the last moment had not the man
saved it by a clever turn of the pan. We
returned soon afterwards to the station, and
caught the train for Panama, taking with us
some gold dust as a memento of our visit.

We saw no game on this occasion, but we
found traces of deer, pig, and jaguars, which
the impenetrable nature of the bush made
impossible to follow up.

There can be no doubt that gold exists in
considerable quantities on the Isthmus of
Panama, although probably it would not pay
for working it ; besides which, there is so much
trickery practised that one cannot believe half
what one hears, and not always what one sees.

220 SPORTING ADVENTURES

I heard of an individual who sent a sample of
earth to New York to be essayed ; great was
his indignation when the answer came back to
say that it was worthless, for said he, " I salted
it myself," meaning that he had distributed an
ounce or two of gold dust amongst the earth
before sending it. This was a smart trick, but
the Yankee was the smarter man of the two.

A gentleman living near Panama keeps a
pack of hounds, with which he hunts in the
neighbouring woods ; he kindly gave me an
invitation to a chasse. We drove from the city
before daylight, and arrived at the rendezvous
just as day was breaking, where we were met
by the huntsman and hounds ! They were,
perhaps, not exactly what an English fox-hunter
would have expected to have seen. The hunts-
man, who was on foot, was a withered old
native, armed with a " machete," or big knife,
with which to cut a trail through the woods;
his dress was of the lightest description con-
sistent with decency, being no more than a
cloth tied round his loins; no doubt it was

IN THE PACIFIC. 221

admirably suited to the climate, and the work
he had to perform. The hounds were the most
nondescript pack I ever saw; there were two
English fox-hounds, who seemed rather ashamed
at being seen in such company, a greyhound,
a bull-terrier, and half a dozen mongrels, some
with curly tails, some with stumpy tails, and
one with no tail at all. However, as their
worthy owner assured me, although they were
not much to look at, they were devils to go !
and he guaranteed them to hunt anything from
a tiger to a cat.

Our first beat was one of the savannahs, or
large open plain, a few miles distant from the
city. The guns being posted, the hounds were
turned into a wood near at hand. "We were all
on the tiptoe of expectation, when a frightful
din commenced, the old native shouting, and
the dogs giving tongue : presently a deer
bounded out, close to where my coxswain was
placed, pursued by the greyhound, the bull-dog,
and the rest in succession. Ricketts being
merely placed as a stop, had no gun ; so he

222 SPORTING ADVENTUBES

turned the deer towards me, and I rolled it
over as it bounded into the bush. Great was
the rejoicing over this beast, the hounds
crowded round ; the old native came out of the
bush, perspiring freely, and scraping the " gar-
rapatos" or ticks off his skin with his "machete."
This beginning seemed to promise well for a
good day's sport, but much to my disappoint-
ment the deer was hoisted up into the carriage,
and we drove back to Panama to breakfast. I
subsequently had several other days' hunting
with this wonderful pack ; the different animals
brought to bag was most amusing, and fully
bore out the character their owner gave them.
On one occasion, after waiting at my post for
at least an hour, a deafening chorus burst forth,
apparently close at hand. Come ! I said to
myself, a tiger at least this time, but nothing
appeared, and as the noise seemed to be con-
centrated at one spot I went to the place. I
found my host and his dogs assembled round a
hole in the ground, into which some animal had
evidently bolted. The scene was most ludicrous,

TN THE PACIFIC. 223

the larger dogs, including the greyhound and
the bull-dog, stood off, ready for anything to
bolt, and keeping up an awful din ; the rest of
the pack were in the hole, and their tails, those
that had any, could just be seen. The old
native had cleared away the bush with his
" machete," as though he expected a Bengal tiger
to come out, and one of the party stood ready
to fire whenever the beast should appear. In
answer to my inquiries as to what kind of a
beast was expected, I was told that possibly
it might be a " cornejo pintado," literally a
painted rabbit, a species of animal I have never
yet seen. A little diversion was created by an
unfortunate armadillo, which bolted out of the
scrub and was rolled over in the open by the
whole pack ; the greyhound first caught it, and
I could hear the poor creature's shell crunching
under his powerful jaws. Meanwhile the old
native had dug down upon the hole, from
whence a low moaning could be heard ; the yelp-
ing of the dogs was now redoubled, and one of
the sportsmen approached the spot with his

224 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

gun, after taking a look round to see the coast
clear. Presently a mass of yellow fur was
descried, into which both barrels were dis-
charged, and a miserable harmless ant-eater was
dragged forth in triumph; the poor creature
had bravely refused to desert its young one,
which was soon afterwards ignominiously pulled
out. I tried to keep this little fellow alive, but
he pined away and died in a short time. Some
days afterwards I made another expedition, in
company with one of our officers, to a country

house called Limon, belonging to Sefior A ,

some twenty miles distant from Panama. We
started during the night, so as to insure landing
at high water, and after a pleasant sail of three
hours arrived at a small village on the beach,
where we procured horses, and reached the
house at two a.m. Notwithstanding the un-
seasonable hour our host and hostess were
awaiting us, and we received a warm welcome
from these kind-hearted people . We spent a
couple of days most pleasantly at this place,
bathing in the river, shooting ducks on the

IN THE PACIFIC. 225

pools, and lying out for deer during the night.
This last occupation was by no means agreeable,
owing to the swarms of mosquitoes, ticks, and
other vermin, which gave us no peace. Our
host told us that he usually built himself a plat-
form in a tree, under which the deer came to
feed during the night, and in this way he had
killed hundreds without being molested by
mosquitoes ; such luxurious kind of shooting is
certainly excusable in these countries, but we
had no time to enjoy it.

The country about Limon is most beautiful,
resembling an English park, with fine timber
and rich grass on which many hundred head
of fat cattle are pastured. Not far from the
hacienda is the village of Choreros, a favourite
bathing-place of the Panamanians during the
hot season. Declining the 'kind offer of our
host to stay and have some deer and wild pig
shooting, we returned on board.

Notwithstanding the immense importance of
the Port of Panama, and the large number of
vessels trading to it, there is not a single

Q

226 SPORTING ADVENTURES

lighthouse on any part of the coast. The
attention of the Government of Panama having
been called to this fact by the Government of
her Britannic Majesty, their Congress voted the
sum of 35,000 dols. (7000Z.) for the purpose
of erecting lighthouses where they were most
needed, and applied to H. M. Charge-d' Affaires
at Bogota for assistance in the matter. In
consequence of his representation, I was ordered
by the Admiral to proceed in the " Reindeer,"
upon the arrival of his flag-ship, to examine
the adjacent coasts, and to report upon the
best sites for erecting lighthouses, and placing
buoys and beacons in the Bay of Panama.
Whilst waiting the arrival of the " Repulse,"
I took the opportunity of consulting with the
captains of the English and American mail
steamers, whose local knowledge was of great
use to me on this subject.

One morning, whilst we were at anchor off
Taboga, we saw the flag-ship coming up from
the southward, so we got under weigh and ran
down to meet her, and accompanied her to the

IN THE PACIFIC. 227

anchorage off Panama. We had hardly anchored
when we observed a great glare in the town,
and it soon became apparent that a fire of no
ordinary magnitude had broken out. The
flames rose on high, lighting up the spires of

f ir^rjji ^^^^~" "5s*~ -

GREAT FIRE AT PANAMA — H.M.S. "REPULSE" AND " REINDEER " AT
ANCHOR IN THE BAY.

the Cathedral, which stood out in bold relief
against the dark background, throwing out
sparks and volumes of smoke. With our
glasses we could see the houses falling in all
directions. The sight was a very grand one,
but there was no time to be lost, and we

Q 2

228 SPORTING ADVENTURES

prepared to render every assistance in our
power. As soon as the flag-ship's steam launch
could be got ready, we started for the scene,
with boats and fire-engines, and a strong party
of officers and men, under the immediate super-
intendence of Captain Wilson of the "Repulse."
Unfortunately the tide was out, and we could
not. approach nearer than a quarter of a mile
from the landing-place, so we had to get out,
and wade through the mud to the shore.
Placing guards over the British and American
Consulates, we made our way to the Plaza,
where a terrible scene presented itself. The
Grand Hotel had already been destroyed, and
about one-third of the city was blazing fiercely,
the picturesque old cathedral had fortunately
escaped. Owing to the absence of water our
fire-engines were useless, and all that we could
do was to pull down houses, and thereby pre-
vent the further spreading of the flames. This
occupied us till 2 a.m. when all further danger
was over, and we returned on board.

Panama has on several occasions suffered

IN THE PACIFIC.

229

severely by fire, and in all probability will
continue to do so until steps are taken to
organize an efficient fire-brigade, and arrange-
ments made to insure a good supply of water.
On this occasion, even had water been pro-

THE GRAND HOTEL, PANAMA, AFTER THE FIRE.

curable, the fire-engine belonging to the town
was out of order, and the nearest- one was at
Colon, nearly fifty miles away; a locomotive
was sent for it, and returned at 4 a.m., by
which time the fire had burnt out, and a
million dollars' worth of property had been

230 SPORTING ADVENTURES

destroyed. The native police and the soldiery
distinguished themselves during the fire by
getting drunk and preventing those who were
endeavouring to save their property from being
able to.

A day or two after this event we sailed to
carry out the Admiral's instructions relative
to the lighthouses ; two officers of the flag-ship
came with me for the sake of sport or any
amusement they could get. The next morning
we were off Cape Mala, a headland terminating
the western shore of the Gulf of Panama.
The current sweeps round this cape with great
velocity, and carried us rather past it, but as
this was one of the most important places for
a lighthouse to be fixed, we beat back, and
anchored under the lee of the point foi the
night.

Cape Mala is rightly named, it is a low
rocky, and most dangerous headland, witi;
reefs extending for nearly a mile, on which a
heavy sea continually breaks.

All steamers approaching Panama from the

IN THE PACIFIC. 231

northward have to round Cape Mala, and
those coming from the south generally sight
it. I was particularly anxious to examine this
place, and tried in vain to effect a landing, but
the heavy surf prevented me, and I was obliged
to content myself with a sketch of the point.
Thinking it possible that we might be able to
get on shore lower down the coast, and so
reach the point, we ran down to the south-
ward, and anchored off the mouth of the
river Juera. A heavy surf was breaking across
the bar, at the entrance of the river, and as
far as we could see on either side ; but at length,
after considerable difficulty, we succeeded in
landing on a precipitous part of the coast, and
scrambling up the cliffs overhead. From this
place we found it impossible to penetrate in-
land, on account of the dense and thorny
jungle ; after struggling for several hours, and
getting our clothes torn, we had to give it up,
and effect an ignominious retreat by way of a
precipice, down which we came with more
expedition than we cared for. So steep was

232 SPORTING ADVENTURES

this place, that one of our party was very nearly
added to the bag, whilst performing the flying
trapeze from tree to tree, and a brace of wild
turkeys which he had shot were lost from his
belt.

Leaving this inhospitable coast in disgust,
we made sail and stood over to the eastern
shore of the Gulf, and anchored in Pinas Bay
the following day. This side of the Gulf is
far superior to the western in every respect,
the harbours are good, the water generally
smooth, and the scenery more beautiful.
Pinas Bay is an excellent harbour ; two lovely
islets, called the ' Sentinels,' guard the entrance,
and are a guide for making the port. The
harbour abounds with every description of the
finny tribe ; with one haul of our seine we
captured a most wonderful draught of fish,
the net was so full as to be in danger of
bursting, and several boat-loads had to be
taken out before it could be drawn ashore.
There must have been many thousands of every
size, shape, and colour, including the corvino,

IN THE PACIFIC. 233

a fish scarcely inferior to a salmon in beauty
and excellence, also rock-cod, mullet, gard-fish,
Spanish-mackerel, and many others.

Whilst we were fishing, the natives of the
place came down to the beach to see what
they could get. I never beheld such a
miserable, unwholesome-looking lot ; they all
appeared to be afflicted with the leprosy, and
one old woman seemed by the look of her
skin to be a kind of cross between a toad
and an iguana. We of course allowed them to
take as much fish as they wanted, as we had
enough and to spare, and after they were
satisfied, dogs, pelicans, and turkey- buzzards
also crowded to the feast. When we left the
bay the water was still covered with dead fish,
the refuse of our haul.

From Pifias Bay we worked along the shore
to the northward, so as to take advantage of
the current which sets in that direction on the
eastern side of the Gulf; the water was smooth,
the breeze fresh, and the ship tore through the
water ten knots an hour. By sunset we had

234 SPORTING ADVENTURES

overhauled a schooner which we had seen at
noon ten miles dead to windward.

There is a dangerous reef between Cape
Escopardo, and Galera Island, called the San
Jose Bank, one rock of which is nearly
awash; the strong current running out of
the river San Miguel, sets directly upon this
reef, and it is necessary to be particularly
cautious in approaching it. During the night
the wind dropped, and we found ourselves
being drifted unpleasantly near the shoal, so
we anchored to avoid being set upon it. The
vicinity of the reef was indicated by large
shoals of fish, including sharks, porpoises,
&c. ; several whales were also in sight. As
soon as the tide had turned, we weighed our
anchor and stood over to the Island of San
Jose, one of the Pearl group, and anchored
in a fine bay on the east side of it. The next
morning I ran down in the gig to examine
the southern point of the island, with a view
to the erection of a lighthouse upon it. A
heavy surf broke upon the rocks near the

IN THE PACIFIC. 235

point, but we found a good landing-place
in a sandy cove close at hand. This point is
only second in importance to Cape Mala, and
a light upon it would be of especial benefit
to ships bound to Panama from the south-
ward. With these two places lighted, one
with a fixed light, the other a flashing, to
distinguish them, the navigator would have
no difficulty in making the port of Panama
in any weather. The engineering difficulties
of placing these lighthouses would be but
slight, and the expense of keeping the lights
going might be met by a trifling tax on all
ships coming to the port.

From San Jose we stood over to the Isla
del Eey, the largest of the Pearl Islands, and
from thence to Pedro Gonzales, where there is
a capital harbour.

There is no sport 'to be got at these islands,
except seining, but still they have much to
recommend them. An artist would find ample
occupation among the lovely islets and fantastic
rocks of this archipelago; all the islands are

236 SPORTING ADVENTURES

thickly wooded, and their bright sandy beaches,
fringed with cocoa-nut trees, give them a
particularly picturesque and pleasing appear-
ance. Altogether we enjoyed our short visit
to these beautiful islands, combining pleasure
with duty ; for if ever sailing is pleasant, it is
so when one has the rare combination of fine
weather and lovely scenery, a fresh breeze
and smooth water, with secure harbours in
every direction under one's lee.

From Pedro Gonzales we worked our way to
the northward, and anchored off the mouth of
the Pacora river, twelve miles east of Panama.
The coast here is so flat that we had to anchor
five miles from the shore ; a long line of surf
breaks constantly on the beach, and on the
bar at the river's mouth, so that it is difficult
to make out the entrance. Being anxious to
explore this river, I started in the gig, accom-
panied by my two guests from the flag-ship.
We got over the bar with some difficulty, and
pulled up the river for several miles, shooting
at the alligators which swarmed on the banks,

IN THE PACIFIC. 237

and in the water. We killed or wounded
several of these brutes, but they generally
managed to reach the water, and sank before
we could secure them. We made an example,
however, of one old rascal that we caught
asleep on the bank with his mouth open.

G , a capital shot, first gave him a ball

down his throat, which somewhat astonished
him, and before he had time to recover, we
landed and despatched him with several more
shots at point-blank range, besides digging a
long knife into him below his armour-plating;
at each stab he turned his head round and
snapped his jaws together with a horrid crash.
We left him apparently dead, and yet when
we passed the place the next morning, his
body had disappeared, having probably been
dragged away and devoured by his companions.
When night came on we lit a fire, and lay
down to sleep on the bank of the river ; but
what with the cold, the heavy dew, and the
mosquitoes, we had a wretched time of it, and
were not sorry when the approach of day

238 SPORTING ADVENTURES

enabled us to stretch our cramped limbs

again.

Taking to the boat, we dropped down to the
mouth of the river, and having picked up a
native who volunteered his services as a guide,
we walked along the beach for nine miles till
we came to a lagoon on the borders of which
were many kinds of duck and water-fowl. Dis-
persing round the lagoon, we opened a brisk
fire on the ducks, bagging several of them ; but
most of the birds that fell in deep water were
at once seized by alligators, which infested the
place. Although these creatures will seldom
attack a man in shallow water, still it is not
pleasant to have them in close proximity to
one's legs ; at one place I had a brace and a
half of ducks floating about dead, near me, and
as no alligator appeared to claim his share, I
waded in "after them. I had already secured
two, and was about to lay hold of the third,
when an alligator rushed past me under water,
and took the bird almost from my hand. As
he turned with it in his mouth, he stirred up

IN THE PACIFIC. 239

the mud with his tail, and I half expected to be
laid hold of by the leg the next moment. Need-
less to say, I lost no time in placing myself on
terra-firma.

Our guide proved most useful in retrieving
ducks, although he had a wholesome horror of
alligators ; it was a most ridiculous sight to see
him with his thin bare legs in the water, boom-
ing off an alligator with his machete, and shout-
ing out " Caiman ! Caiman ! Caramba ! " &c.

Owing to the presence of these beasts, old
" Rose " was not allowed into the water, but
was given in charge of my coxswain, who kept
her out of danger.

Notwithstanding these drawbacks to our
shooting, we made a very pretty bag, amount-
ing to twenty-five brace of ducks and teal, with
which we tramped back to the boat, and
returned on board, and the next day rejoined
the flag- ship at Taboga.

On the 9th April we sailed from Panama,
bound to the coast of Mexico, a part of the
station we were already too familiar with. A

240 SPORTING ADVENTURES

few days before we took our departure, we had
an opportunity of trying our speed with our
sister ship, the " Cameleon ;" the event was not
so exciting as it might have been, on account
of the lack of wind, still it was a pretty sight,
as the two smart little vessels ran alongside of
each other under every stitch of canvas. The
course was from Taboga to Panama Roads ; we
started in a dead calm, but after drifting about
for some time, a light breeze sprang up, just
enough to fill our sails; gradually the breeze
freshened, the " Reindeer " drew ahead, and
passed San Jose rock a quarter of a mile ahead,
the wind then suddenly shifted, taking us both
aback, and placing the " Cameleon" to windward,
so that she was able to reach her berth first.

The morning after leaving Panama we were
becalmed in sight of Coiba Island, a place
strongly recommended in our sailing directions,
for having excellent wood and water ; we
anchored in Damas Bay about sundown, to lay
in a supply of the former, and thus economize
our coal.

IN. THE PACIFIC. 241

At daylight the following morning a strong

party were landed to cut wood, whilst E

and myself shouldered our guns, and started to
explore the island.

The settlement marked on our chart was
deserted, but the footprints of men and dogs in
the sand, and the remains of a deer, showed
that the place had been lately visited. The
jungle was so thick that we found it impossible
to penetrate any distance inland, so after
following the shore along for several miles, we
took to the boat, and ascended a river until we
could go no farther ; even then we were
unable to land, except in the middle of a man-
grove swamp. I am satisfied that there is
plenty of game on the island, but we had no
time to search for it. In the graphic account
of Lord Anson's visit to Coiba Island, we read
of large alligators swimming in the sea, of
flying snakes in the woods, and such like
curiosities ; but I am bound to say that
we saw nothing of the kind ; indeed the worthy
parson who wrote the account appears

E

242 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

to have borrowed largely from his imagina-
tion.

In other respects Coiba deserves the glowing
description given of it. It is a beautiful island,
densely wooded with every kind of tropical
tree, and possessing excellent water, and a
good anchorage. The wood which we got
here was of the very best quality for steaming
purposes, some of the trees are of great size,
and are well adapted for masts and spars.

"Whilst lying at anchor in Damas Bay I
noticed that although the sea-breeze set in
with great strength, raising a considerable sea
in the bay, it remained calm in the offing, and
on taking our departure with a fine breeze, we
were disappointed at losing it as soon as we
were clear of the bay, and whilst we remained
becalmed for several hours, we could see that a
strong breeze was blowing in the harbour all
the time.

I have frequently noticed this in other tro-
pical places, and account for it by supposing
that the wind blows into these ports like

IN THE PACIFIC. 243

through a funnel, gathering strength as it
approaches the land. Until one is aware of
this peculiarity, one is apt to suppose that one
is losing a fine breeze by remaining, in port,
when in all probability it is precisely the
reverse.

Near to Coiba is the picturesque island of
Rancheria, where there is a settlement, but
which we had no time to visit. On the evening
of the 15th April, we were close to the small
island of Cano, where there are said to be some
Indian relics of interest; we hove-to for an
hour, whilst I landed with the doctor to
examine them. We found the remains of an
Indian encampment, and a burial-ground,
which we did not disturb, but darkness pre-
vented further investigation, so we returned on
board, and proceeded on our way. The next
evening we put into Herradura Bay to cut
wood, our supply from Coiba being exhausted.

Herradura is a small port at the entrance of
the Gulf of Nicoya, and is probably seldom or
never visited ; we were led to believe by our

E 2

244 SPORTING ADVENTURES

sailing directions, that it was an excellent har-
bour, but such was not our experience of it.
We anchored after dark, close to the shore for
convenience in wooding the next day, but day-
light disclosed a long line of breakers, extend-
ing all round the bay, and we found it impossi-
ble to land, except by wading up to our middle
in water. We managed, however, to send a
party on shore to cut wood, and another to
bathe in a small pool close to the beach, where
the water was described by the same authority
as being most excellent. This is just the
description I should have expected from an
alligator, if his opinion was consulted, for we
found it to be quite brackish ; and no wonder,
for at high tide the sea swept over the narrow
strip of beach, which separated the pool from
the sea. Hauling one of our boats over this
piece of beach, we launched it in the lagoon,
thinking to find a river by which we might
make our way into the interior. We found a
small stream of beautifully clear water, running
over a gravelly bottom, with many small fish

IN THE PACIFIC. 245

therein, but it was too shallow for the boat, so
we got out and walked up the bed of the stream
until we traced it to its source in the moun-
tains. "With the exception of a couple of wild
turkeys, we saw no game whatever ; but there
were many tracks of deer, and panthers, leading
down to the water, we also found wild plantains
and sugar-cane growing, and orange-trees,
heavily laden with fruit, but the latter, though
they looked tempting, were quite sour.

On our return to the pool we found that the
bathing party had discovered an alligator's nest,
with thirty-nine eggs in it ; the fond parent was
not forthcoming, but was. probably not far off.
Most of the eggs contained young alligators,
which were very lively on being released, and
took kindly to the water, but they soon suc-
cumbed to the too affectionate handling of the
blue-jackets, who wanted to make pets of them. I
took a couple of eggs on board, and endeavoured
to hatch them in the natural way, by the heat
of the sun, but they never came to anything ;
this was to be regretted, as arrangements had

2i6 SPORTING ADVENTURES

been made for their comfort, even to messing in
the gun-room, where there were only two
members. We shot some rare and curious birds
at this place, including several kinds of cranes,
and a boatbill ; one of our sportsmen also killed
a fine turkey, weighing ten pounds. Leaving
this port, we worked along the coast to the
northward, taking advantage of the sea-breeze
by day, and the land-breeze by night ; it is only
by closely observing the direction, force, and
duration of these winds, and the set of the
currents, that a passage can be made, under
sail, on these coasts. "We found that the sea-
breeze set in with tolerable regularity about
noon, at which time we endeavoured to place
the ship at such a distance from the land as to
enable us to make a long stretch on our course
till sundown, when the wind died away. By
this time we were generally about a mile from
the shore, where we lay becalmed, awaiting the
land-breeze, which usually reached us at ten or
eleven p.m. The first sign of this wind was
wafted off to us in the form of a strong smell

IN THE PACIFIC. 247

of decaying vegetable matter from the man-
grove swamps ; presently our upper sails would
feel the gentle air, which, gradually freshening,
would carry us away from the land to an offing
by daybreak, when this wind in its turn died
away. "We found that the land-breeze was not
nearly so regular as the other, and sometimes it
did not come at all.

On the 23rd April we were off St. Jose de
Guatemala, and stood in till within a quarter of
a mile of the pier ; the people on shore evidently
expected us to anchor, but as we had no object
in doing so, and moreover the Admiral had
expressed himself verbally to me that he saw
no necessity for our going there, we tacked and
stood out to sea again. As it happened, it was
most unfortunate that we did not anchor, for
the very next morning a scandalous and cruel
outrage was perpetrated on Mr. Magee, the
acting British vice-consul. Of course no one
could have foreseen this, but had we touched at
San Jose that night in all probability it would
never have occurred ; as it was we heard nothing

248 SPORTING ADVENTURES

of the affair until we reached Mazatlan a month
afterwards, too late to be of any assistance.
But the most extraordinary thing was, that two
days after passing San Jose, the American mail
steamer " Costa Bica," passed us on her way to
San Francisco. She had left St. Jose the day
before, and the passengers on board of her were
desirous of communicating with us, and inform-
ing me of the outrage ; they had in fact a letter
for me on the subject, but for some unaccount-
able reason the captain of the vessel passed on
without taking any more notice than the usual
ceremony of dipping his colours. Owing to this
unfortunate blunder it was several weeks before
a man-of-war reached St. Jose to demand satis-
faction for the outrage and the moral effect
which would have been produced by the
appearance of the English flag within forty-
eight hours of the perpetration of the insult
was lost.

I felt it my duty to report the conduct of the
commander of the " Costa Bica " (so contrary
to the usual courtesy of the captains of mail

IN THE PACIFIC. 249

steamers) to the company's agent. His excuse
was that he did not stop because we did not
heave-to or lower a boat, which of course we
should have done had I any idea of the im-
portance of his news. It is not in accordance
with the custom of her Majesty's ships to stop
a mail steamer belonging to another nation,
without having good reasons for doing so.

A day or two after this occurrence we observed
two fine water- spouts, which did not approach
within gunshot of us, but near enough to see
clearly of what they were composed. In
common with many others, I had always been
under the impression that these so-called water-
spouts consisted of a column of water, drawn
up from the sea, and meeting a corresponding
depression in the clouds overhead ; the agitated
condition of the sea at the base of the column
would tend to confirm this view, which, how-
ever, is an erroneous one. I watched very
closely the formation of these phenomena, which
are produced by a whirlwind, causing the cloud
to draw to a point, which, presently assuming a

250 SPORTING ADVENTURES

spiral form, descends and meets the sea beneath,
causing the agitation of the water, and drawing
up quantities of spray, which gives it the ap-
pearance of a solid body of water. The column,
rapidly revolving, presently sways to and fro,
and then gradually fades away.

During the time we were watching the water-
spouts the sea was alive with whales, porpoises,
sword-fish, devil-fish, and shoals of smaller fry,
which last were attended overhead by pelicans,
albatross, frigate birds, and other birds of prey.
Whilst crossing the Gulf of Tehuantepee we
experienced the usual " norther," which blows
almost without intermission across the isthmus
from the Gulf of Mexico. This wind, amount-
ing sometimes to a fresh gale, blows with such
regularity that the navigator can always rely
upon it, and, by previously hugging the coast
so as to place the ship well to windward, can
make a fair wind of it, whether bound up or
down the coast. It blows across the low land
like a funnel, being kept in by the mountains on
either side of the isthmus, consequently it com-

IN THE PACIFIC. 251

mences very suddenly, and leaves off in the same
manner. It appears soon to exhaust itself on
leaving the land, so that the farther one is from
the shore the weaker it becomes, and I believe
that at a couple of hundred miles off it would
not be felt at all. This part of the coast is
admirably lighted by volcanoes, many of which
may be seen burning during the night ; these
not only afford a magnificent spectacle, but are
also of use to the mariner, whilst navigating
these seas, where the coast line is not very ac-
curately determined, and is moreover lighted
in no other way.

On the 29th April we anchored in the small
but sheltered harbour of Guatulco ; this port
is very difficult to distinguish, and would be
still more so if it were not for a cave, with a
hole at the top, at the entrance; this rock,
called the " Bufadero," or bellows, spouts up
water like a whale, and the noise can be heard
at a considerable distance. Guatulco is only
interesting from having been visited by Sir
Francis Drake, more than 300 years ago : it is a

252 SPORTING ADVENTURES

very snug anchorage, and is convenient for
cutting wood, any quantity of which can be got
close to the ship. From thence we proceeded
to Acapulco, where we arrived three days after-
wards.

"Whilst the coaling and refitting was going on
I accepted the offer of one of the merchants of

a mount for E and myself, for the purpose

of visiting a marsh, at a place called Pied-de-la-
questa, about twelve miles over the mountains,
from the town, where we heard there was
capital shooting.

Our departure was somewhat delayed by the
behaviour of my steed, which showed his de-
cided objection to the journey by bucking me
off, gun cartridges and all, into the middle of
the plaza. His owner assured me that this was
his regular practice before starting, but that
once under weigh he was as quiet as a lamb. I
preferred to take his word for this, and ex-
changing the animal for another, we took a
fresh departure. We were accompanied on this
occasion by a Yankee loafer, who was reported

IN THE PACIFIC. 253

to be the best sportsman in the place, but he
proved to be a better hand with the bottle than
with the " scatter-pellet," as he called it. He
told us confidentially that he came with us
because the next day was a fast day, and that
he always made a point of getting drunk on
those occasions. Leaving Acapulco about three
p.m., we followed our guide over the mountains
in single file ; a worse bit of travelling it would
be difficult to imagine, the track was merely a
water-course, intercepted by rocks and roots of
trees, and it was wonderful how our horses kept
their feet. After riding through a forest for
some miles, we reached the top, and descended
into the valley below, reaching the village of
Pied-de-la- questa about sundown. "We put up
for the night at a ranch, kept by an aged crone
and two buxom daughters, and we passed a
pleasant evening over our pipes and grog. Our
guide entertained us with an amusing account
of his adventures, in all of which he was the
hero. By his own account he was a deserter
from an American man-of-war, had distinguished

254 SPORTING ADVENTURES

himself in fights, both afloat and ashore, scalped
more Indians than Mayne Reid ever heard of,
and killed bears, buffalo, and elk, by the cart-
load. As the night wore on he got drunk and
offensive, and as his language was not edifying
he was put .to bed. We also retired to the
couches prepared for us, the women dispersed
themselves about the ranch, and several dusky
brats lay promiscuously on the ground.

The crowing of numerous cocks roused us
before daylight, and we were soon ready for a
start. Near to the village was a large lagoon,
about twenty miles long by five broad in the
widest part, extending from the village in a line
parallel to the sea, from which it was separated
by a strip of beach. It was arranged that

E , piloted by the Yankee, should make his

way along this beach to a ranch called " Casa-
dero," and that I should go by water to the
same rendezvous. A native who rejoiced in the
name of " Walk-in," or what sounded like it,
accompanied me to assist in paddling the canoe.
Launching our rotten old craft, we paddled

IN THE PACIFIC. 255

quietly along the margin of the lake, occasion-
ally landing to shoot a noisy " Chachalaca " that
would insist in calling our attention to his
whereabouts. These birds are not unlike our
English hen pheasant, but are not so large;
they are exceedingly stupid, and sit on the trees
gazing at one, and uttering a cry like that pro-
duced by running a stick sharply across a
u shingle " roof or paling.

Now and then a duck would rise from the
rushes, when the paddle was quickly exchanged
for the gun to bring him to the bag ; or a
rabbit would scuttle away into the bush, giving
one only a snap shot ; besides these there were
hundreds of cranes, ibis, curlew, bitterns, boat-
bills, spoonbills, and flamingo to be seen, and
alligators in every direction.

We arrived in due time at " Casadero," a
solitary ranch by the water-side ; by this time I
had three brace of ducks, a rabbit, and a couple
of chachalaca in the canoe, besides a few ibis and

curlew. To my disappointment E did not

appear, so after waiting two hours for rest and

' 256

SPORTING ADVENTURES

refreshment, I took to the canoe again, and
pushed on for the upper end of the lagoon,
where " Walk-in " declared there were any
number of ducks. For an hour or more we
paddled along under a burning sun, disturbing
the alligators which were basking on the banks,
sometimes eight or ten of them would glide into
the water together, and rise again close to our
frail craft, as though they would like to improve
the acquaintance of its occupants ; occasionally
one would become too familiar, when a charge
of buck-shot delivered into the eye at three
yards, generally had the desired effect, and sent
him off, lashing the water with his tail and
staining it with his blood. At length we
reached the head of the lagoon, and, peeping
through the rushes, we saw a large swamp,
wherein many thousands of duck, widgeon, and
teal were feeding in fancied security.

Pushing the canoe through the rushes, we
launched her in this sanctuary, when the sport
began. 4 ' Walk-in,' ' naturally a man of few words,
now showed himself to be not wanting in intel-

IN THE PACIFIC. 257

ligence ; he had never seen birds killed on the
wing before, and the rapidity with which a
snap-actioned breech-loader could be loaded and
fired quite astonished him ; leaving the canoe,
he danced about the marsh, picking up the
ducks which were falling in all directions. The
shots alarmed all the birds in the neighbour-
hood, and the place seemed alive with duck and
teal, which kept flying overhead presenting
every variety of shot. There was shooting
enough for a dozen guns, and I hoped that

E , hearing the shots, might join me, but as it

turned out, he was at that moment many miles
away. I blazed away until my gun was hot,
and the ammunition beginning to give out,
when we set to work to gather up the slain.
Whilst I had been shooting, the alligators had
not been idle, and all my birds which had fallen
in deep water had disappeared, many of the
cripples also had escaped in the rushes ; how-
ever, we picked up at this one place fifteen
brace of ducks, and a couple of teal. The sun
was setting as we turned our faces towards

s

258 SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC.

home, and the sky was still darkened by im-
mense flocks of ducks preparing to settle in
their favourite retreat. Our canoe leaked so
badly with the additional weight she carried,
that it was with difficulty we kept her afloat ;
and darkness had long set in, when, after
paddling for four weary hours we again hauled
her up on the beach near the village.

On joining E , I found that he had never

reached Casadero, the Yankee having lost his
way, and so lost him a capital day's sport ; he
had, however, bagged a magnificent "pato-
reale," weighing fully eight pounds.

We slept at the ranch that night, and the
next morning were in the saddle before daylight,
on our way back to the ship. As we rode
through the woods the chacalacas were calling
in all directions, and hopping from tree to tree;

E bagged five without going off the path,

and we might have got many more had we
cared to do so.

CHAPTER XII.

FROM Acapulco we went to Manzanillo, where
we shipped a quantity of wood, and several tons
of the husks of the Coquilla nut for fuel. This
palm grows in great abundance in the woods
near Manzanillo; the nut is used for making oil,
and contains such a quantity that it will burn
like a candle. We found the husks sufficient
for our purposes; they throw out so great a
heat, that we could steam by their aid alone,
without using coal or wood. Our chief engineer
reported so favourably of them, that I ordered
a large supply to be ready for us on our return;
the only expense attached to this kind of fuel
is the labour of collecting it. Whilst here I
rode over to a lagoon a few miles from the

s 2

260 SPORTING ADVENTURES

village, in company with 0 and a friend

who kindly supplied us with horses. The
marsh we went to has the reputation of being
extremely unhealthy, and is no doubt the cause
of the town having such a bad name ; the water
of the lagoon is of a dirty cocoa colour, and
emits a foul stench ; notwithstanding which we
waded over most of it, and made a fair bag
of ducks, and some roseate spoonbills ; the latter
were most beautiful birds.

A day or two after leaving Manzanillo we
anchored in our old quarters at San Bias.

I fear the morality of this place is at a very
low ebb. On one occasion I gave a passage
to an individual residing not 100 miles off ; this
man had been to San Francisco on special
business, and was returning home. He told
me he had done pretty well, and showed me
with great pride and satisfaction a number of
labels to be pasted on cigar-boxes, the said
cigars being manufactured on his premises.
Every well-known Havana brand was repre-
sented, having been very exactly forged in

IN THE PACIFIC. 261

San Francisco, so that, as he explained, his
customers could be supplied with the best
article at the shortest notice and at the
lowest possible price. Besides these, he had
a large collection of assorted wine labels, fac-
similes of the most famous brands, to be placed
on his own bottles, containing the most
abominable compounds. On my asking him if
he considered this style of dealing to be honest,
he said, " Well, captain, fact is, when I was
in California, I went to a phrenologist, who
examined my head carefully for some time
without remark ; at last he exclaimed, ' Why,
sir, you must be a scoundrel ! ' and he
added, with ingenuous candour, ' I am a
scoundrel.' '

Whilst here, I took another run up to Tepic,
accompanied by one of our officers, and a
couple of bluejackets as a guard. We took
our places in the diligence before daylight,
and were consequently unable to see the faces
of our fellow-passengers, until we arrived at
Navaretti, where we stopped to breakfast. We

262 SPORTING ADVENTURES

then found, to our dismay, that the other seats
were occupied by a Mexican, and his wife and
children, all in the worst stage of small-pox.
This disease had been raging at Mazatlan and
San Bias for some time, but was said to be
passed. There was no help for it, as we could
not stop where we were, nor go back ; and as
they were not likely to -do so, we travelled
together for the rest of the journey, some
thirty miles. During this time we smoked
without ceasing, so that we could hardly see
each other's faces, and fumigated ourselves so
thoroughly, that we felt no evil effects from
the contact ; it is to be hoped that our fellow-
travellers were all the better for it.

During the three days we stayed at Tepic
we enjoyed some good sport at the river,
bagging twenty brace of ducks on two succes-
sive days. On our arrival at Mazatlan from
San Bias, a few days afterwards, we found that
there was no freight ready for us, and that
none was expected for a month. I therefore
decided to employ this time in visiting some

IN THE PACIFIC. 263

places of interest in the Gulf of California,
including Guaymas, and La Paz, where we had
orders to call. We accordingly sailed for La
Paz on 3rd of June, and two days afterwards
sighted the lofty and barren island of Ceralbo,
on the western side of the gulf. Off the
north end of this island there is, according to
the admiralty chart, a group of rocks, marked
" dangerous, " but which in reality do not
exist in the spot mentioned. We kept a
particularly good look-out for them from the
deck and the mast-head, but no signs of
rocks, shoals, or even discoloured water were
to be seen. The navigator is cautioned not to
place too much reliance on the charts of this
part of the coast, as the survey was a " run-
ning " one, it might rather be called an
imaginary one, for points, bays, and shoals are
marked which do not exist, save in the imagi-
nation of the surveyors. The coast-line on
the eastern shore of the gulf is also notoriously
inaccurate. At one place we were several
miles inland by cross bearings ; the recent

264 SPORTING ADVENTURES

most excellent survey of the gulf by the
United States' S.S. " Naragansett," will, how-
ever, supply this want. There really was an
islet, apparently ten or twelve feet high, not
marked in the chart, off which an American
schooner was anchored, superintending the
operations of a fleet of small craft, engaged in
the pearl fishery. Passing this little fleet, we
steered through the Lorenzo Channel, and
anchored off the town of La Paz, within pistol-
shot of the pier. La Paz is the brightest,
prettiest little seaport in Mexico; the houses
are painted blue, yellow, and pink, and rows
of trees are planted along the streets, giving
the town a picturesque appearance, not common
in these latitudes. It is very hot on shore
during the day, and no one stirs out till about
five or six p.m. The nights are deliciously cool.
On board ship it is pleasant enough, although
the thermometer ranges between 90° and 100°
in the shade, as a strong wind blows regularly
through the day, until sunset, and always from
the same direction. The anchorage is very

IN THE PACIFIC. 265

secure, but is not suited for ships drawing
more than fifteen or sixteen feet of water, and
the passage leading up to it is so intricate, that
it is advisable to take a. pilot; whilst steaming
through this channel we could see the bottom
the whole way, and frequently had not more
than six inches of water under our keel.

After a stay of four days at La Paz, we ran
down to Pichilinque Harbour to coal, stopping
on our way to assist an American schooner,
which had run ashore, in attempting the
passage without a pilot. This is one of the
best harbours on the coast; the anchorage is
sheltered and spacious, with plenty of water in
it. The morning after our arrival, I landed
abreast of the ship before daylight, accom-
panied by E -, to see what chances of sport

there might be. We soon found abundant
tracks of deer, hares, and quail, so after
arranging upon a rendezvous, we separated,
each following up a valley leading inland. We
found the country to be barren and desolate,
little better than a sandy desert, covered with

266 SPORTING ADVENTURES

cactus bushes and thorny scrub. The heat
was intolerable, and there were no signs of
water. On reaching the rendezvous, I found
Bicketts (my coxswain), who had come suddenly
upon two fine deer, a buck and a doe, but his
gun missed fire. I had seen one deer, but only
caught a passing glimpse of it, as it bounded

away. E had • seen nothing. We now took

the shelter in a ranch, from the heat of the sun ;
owner of the ranch told us that there were
plenty of deer in the neighbourhood, and that
they drank no water, the cactus supplying all
their wants in this respect. This we found to
be the case. He said there was no water near
at hand, except in a well by the house for their
own use, and even that was brackish. The
fruit of the cactus is so juicy and nourishing,
that not only can animals subsist on it without
other food or drink, but the natives will travel
all day under a burning sun, with no other
provision than a few of them tied up in a
handkerchief or carried on a stick.

In the cool of the evening we made a fresh

IN THE PACIFIC. 267

start, taking the native as a guide, when I
bagged a fine deer, and Ricketts wounded, but
lost another. We slept at the ranch that night,
and hunted again the next day, but without suc-
cess, although we saw several splendid bucks ;
and the coaling being completed, we returned on
board. The coal which we obtained here was
anthracite, from Philadelphia, a description not
suited to our furnaces ; the result was, that
when we tried to steam out of the harbour, we
were unable to do so, and had to anchor again ;
but when once it was well alight, it burnt so
furiously that there was no getting it to burn
out, and we steamed for several hours without
putting fresh coal on the fire.

Passing by the Island of Espritu- Santo, we
anchored the following day on the north-west
side of the Island of San Joseph.

This island is barren and mountainous, like
the adjacent coast, from which it is separated
by a channel from three to four miles
wide. Abreast of where we anchored was a
salt-water lagoon, abounding in turtle and fish

268 SPORTING ADVENTURES

of every description, from sharks to sprats ;
our seining party had capital sport, getting
enough fish to last us for a week.

From the numerous tracks, it was evident
that there must be many deer on the island, so
all our sportsmen who could muster a gun or
rifle landed in search of them. Ascending the
mountains in different directions, we hunted in
all the likely places, but with very poor success,
several deer were seen, but only one bagged,

by 0 . The heat was terrific, and the labour

very severe, owing to the total absence of
water, the heavy sand, and the mountainous
character of the island. In the afternoon I ran
down in the gig, and landed at another place,
where, after toiling for several hours, I killed
another small deer.

Some years ago deer were far more nume-
rous on San Joseph than they are at present ;
but immense numbers were slaughtered by an
American professional hunter, or rather butcher,
for the sake of their hides. I was told, by the
man who bought the skins, that this individual

IN THE PACIFIC. 269

killed from 150 to 160 deer in a week, and that
the air reeked with their putrefying carcases ;
I can quite credit this, from the quantity of
bones and horns which we found in all direc-
tions. San Joseph shows traces of mineral
wealth, and shipments both of gold and silver
have been made from this island to San Fran-
cisco. From thence we ran along the coast to
the northward, enjoying the pleasant breezes
and smooth water which prevail in the Gulf of
California during the fine season. The moun-
tains on the western shore of the Gulf are
destitute of vegetation, and of fantastic form,
showing unmistakable traces of some great
terrestrial convulsion of former times.

Nearly abreast of Guaymas, is Mulege Bay, a
spacious harbour with plenty of water; but
there are several rocks about the entrance,
which are not marked on our charts ; they are,
however, easily avoided, as the sea breaks con-
stantly over them ; the rocks marked on the
chart are placed in a wrong position, and are
apt to mislead one. I was desirous of visiting

270 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

Mulege, to obtain possession of a boat, which
had been stolen from the coal-agent at Pichi-
linque, and conveyed thither. The anchorage is
to the northward of the bay, and is very diffi-
cult to be distinguished, a cluster of palm-
trees off the mouth of a river being the only
guide. The town of Mulege is situated about
a mile and a half up this river, and cannot be
seen from the anchorage ; it is a miserable place,
composed of about 120 adobe huts; but there
are a few edifices of a better class in course of
construction. On a hill close by is the old mis-
sion of Mulege; the building has now fallen to
decay. The town was formerly supported by
the pearl fisheries, which have declined; but
the discovery of extensive copper-mines has
infused new energy into the place. These
mines are said to yield a fair profit to the
owners, the ore varies in richness from ten to
fifty per cent., and consists of black oxide and
sulphates, it lies in horizontal strata, very
much broken. About 500 operatives are em-
ployed on the works.

IN THE PACIFIC. 271

The river between the town and the sea is
so shallow that only boats of light draught can
ascend it, and then at high water ; there is but
one tide each way in the twenty-four hours ;
the mouth of the river is well adapted for
hauling the seine, and our people got in a few
hauls enough fish to supply the ship and half
the town as well.

It has been proposed to form a settlement at
a place some few miles to the northward of
Mulege*, and T was given to understand that a
company had been formed to colonize it. This
spot has been christened by the high-sounding
title of El Paradiso, and described as a land
flowing with milk and honey ; but in the opinion
of men living on the spot, well qualified to
judge of the merits of this " Paradise," it is a
wretched country, without any recommenda-
tion, and any unfortunate emigrants would
starve there, as they did at Magdalena
Bay.

Not far from Mulege is the island of San
Marcos, from whence large quantities of gyp-

272 SPOETING ADVENTURES

sum have been shipped to San Francisco; and
about 100 miles to the northward of this, near
the Californian shore, is the small island of
Rossa, where an enterprising Englishman has
established himself. This individual is export-
ing in large quantities a substance called
" Phosphate of Ammonia," but which is by
some considered to be another name for guano ;
he claims that the article is a mineral, and has
" denounced " the island as a mine which he has
discovered.

The mining laws of Mexico provide that any
one who discovers a mine shall have the exclusive
right to it, upon payment to the Government of
a few trifling fees, and a small sum to the
nearest judge, for giving judicial possession.

In about the same latitude, but nearer the
coast of Sonora, is another island, named San
Georges, on which a large quantity of the same
substance has been discovered. There are
also other islands in the Gulf, known to possess
guano in considerable quantities, but which
have not as yet been disturbed ; on the largest

IN THE PACIFIC. 273

of them, " Tiburon," there are Indians living
in a savage state.

From Mulege we sailed for Guaymas, the
most important port in the Gulf of California.
As we approached the eastern shore, the
temperature increased in a marked degree ; in
this respect there is a great difference between
the two sides of the gulf, although they are not
more than 150 miles apart in some places. We
reached Guaymas on 20th of June, and anchored
off the town. This is one of the hottest places
on the coast ; during our stay the thermometer
averaged 96° in the shade, and in August and
September it is much hotter. By springing the
ship broadside to the sea-breeze we managed to
keep her tolerably cool during the day, but at
night, when the wind died away, it was most
oppressive.

A story is told of a lawyer of Guaymas who,
having departed this life, found it so compara-
tively cold in his new habitation that he sent
back for his blanket.

The town is built at the foot of a barren and

T

274 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Tugged range of mountains, which encompass it
on all sides ; it is a wretched-looking place, and
has been likened to a churchyard turned upside
down. The harbour is spacious, but shallow,
and only fit for small ships ; it is studded all
over with islands, two guarding the entrance,
and is so well protected by nature that in the
hands of any other nation it would be made
impregnable. It is a curious fact that all the
drinking water at and about Guaymas is quite
brackish, and, to our taste, was most un-
palatable ; our friends on shore declared that it
was particularly wholesome, but I noticed that
the old hands invariably qualified it with a
suspicion of the barley bree.

There is excellent shooting in the neighbour-
hood ; deer, hares, and duck ; it is as well to be
cautious whilst shooting, on account of the
rattlesnakes, which infest not only the main-
land, but all the islands in the gulf. These
reptiles come out of their holes about early
dawn, and again at sundown ; they are fond of
lying about the paths, and are, therefore, most

IN THE PACIFIC. 275

dangerous. On one occasion, whilst looking
for deer on the top of some mountains not far
from the town, my retreat was fairly cut off by
a rattlesnake which commanded the narrow
path by which I wished to descend ; whenever
I advanced I could hear the warning rattle,
although I could not see the creature to shoot it,
on account of the thick scrub, and as I had only
thin shoes and trowsers on, I had to go round
by another way. Shooting at Guaymas in the
dry season is rather a labour, owing to the
excessive heat and lack of water, obliging one
to carry a supply, which soon becomes so heated
as to be quite nauseous. We bagged some
hares and other small game, but were unlucky
with the deer, in consequence of which a chasse
was arranged by some friends on shore. About
three a.m. a boat-load of sportsmen called along-
side for me ; they were accompanied by an
officer of the garrison, two drummers, and
a couple of buglers, carrying their instruments,
and a bundle of hand-rockets, the use of which
will be presently seen.

T 2

276 SPORTING ADVENTURES

Our destination was an island a few
outside the harbour, on which deer had been
sometimes seen. We reached the place about
daylight, and having landed the musicians at
the back of the island, we took up our position
in the boats, between the island and the nearest
beach, so as to intercept any deer or other
animal which might take to the water.
Presently a rocket gave the signal to advance,
the band immediately set up a most hideous
uproar, occasionally varying the entertainment,
when they could spare the wind, by a selection
of the choicest Spanish oaths ; the general effect
was most peculiar, and was sufficient to scare
any beast that might be on the island. Unfor-
tunately they were not at home that day, so we
had to content ourselves with blowing up fish
with torpedoes of dynamite, and such like
innocent amusements, until it was time to
return on board.

One great drawback to hunting in the
northern division of Mexico is the presence of
the Apache Indians who infest that part of

IN THE PACIFIC. 277

the country. These fiends, who are no
better than wild beasts, commit the most
horrible atrocities, murdering travellers, burn-
ing haciendas, and generally devastating the
country. Treacherous and cowardly, they are
so swift in their movements that it is almost
impossible to capture them, and long before
the troops who are sent after them are on their
track, they are secure in their mountain fast-
nesses. Truly it may be said that their hand
is against every man, and every man's hand
against them. Whenever any of these wretches
are by chance caught, they are, in the signifi-
cant phraseology of the country, made " good
Indians;" it is to be hoped that when the
railway now projected to Guaymas is completed
this tribe will become a thing of the past.

After a stay of ten days at Guaymas, we pre-
pared to retrace our steps towards the south.

We had now traversed the west coast of
Mexico from one end to the other, and visited
every port of any consequence ; everywhere we
heard the same old story of revolutions,

278 SPORTING ADVENTURES

brigands, murders, robberies, and wholesale
smuggling. No wonder that the unfortunate
country does not advance. The natural re-
sources of Mexico are immense, her gold, silver,
and copper mines are among the richest in the
world, and the soil will produce the finest crops
of sugar, coffee, tobacco, maize, rice, cotton,
&c. Emigration is wanted to open up the vast
resources of the country. The present popula-
tion is about eight millions, of whom six
millions are Indians, who are useless, and won't
work. There is abundant field for the emi-
grant, in thousands of acres uncultivated,
hundreds of mines unworked ; but before emi-
grating, people naturally expect some guarantee
for the safety of themselves and their property,
and that cannot be said to be the case at
present.

Without railways, or even good roads, it is
impossible for any country to progress ; the
first step in the right direction is the comple-
tion of the Vera Cruz Railway, which is pro-
nounced financially a success. It is intended

IN THE PACIFIC. 279

to extend this line to Acapulco, on the west
coast, and another line is to connect the city of
Mexico with San Bias. It will probably belong
before these railways are completed ; but when
they are, it is to be hoped that peace and order
will be restored to this beautiful but unhappy
country.

CHAPTER XIII.

LEAVING Guaymas, we recrossed the gulf, and
stopped off Mulege, to pick up the boat we had
been in search of, from thence we went to
Carmen Island, and anchored in Salinas Bay,
on the south side of the island. Near to the
anchorage is a salt lake, several miles in circum-
ference; the deposits of salt are formed by
natural evaporation, the lake replenishing itself
by invisible channels from the sea. The salt is
of excellent quality, and is so abundant that
thousands of tons are annually taken away, and
yet there is no perceptible diminution. It is
difficult to calculate the amount obtainable
from this source ; but the estimate of persons
familiar with the subject place it at a million
tons annually.

SPORTING ADVENTURES JN THE PACIFIC. 281

Carmen Island also contains copper in con-
siderable quantities, and shipments of small
lots have been made to Europe and the United
States. The ore varies in richness from ten to
forty per cent., and possesses traces of gold ;
but as no regular veins have been discovered,
the works have been abandoned. The anchor-
age at Salinas Bay is an open one, and exposed
to the southward, so we only remained there a
few hours, and then stood over to the main-
land, to examine a small port called Escondito,
or the Hidden Port. This place is scarcely
mentioned on our charts, and has certainly
never been properly surveyed. The entrance
to the port is most difficult to distinguish, and
it is necessary to approach it with caution,
there is an outer anchorage, with deep water
and good shelter, wherein we dropped anchor.
The entrance to the inner harbour is only
thirty yards across, and has a depth of sixteen
feet at high water in the channel; the tide
rushes through this gap with great velocity.
Inside is a splendid sheet of water of a nearly

282 SPORTING ADVENTURES

circular form, about a mile in circumference,
and very deep ; small coasting vessels lie up
here during the hurricane months, and so per-
fect is the shelter that a vessel might be at
anchor inside without any chance of being seen
by passing ships.

A long well-wooded valley extends up from
this harbour towards the mountains. It looked
a likely spot for game, so I landed to explore it,

accompanied as usual by E . We found

many tracks of deer and other animals, but we
had not time to penetrate far inland before
darkness overtook us, and we returned on
board. Our seining party had good sport,
hauling the seine in the gap, and capturing
some fine fish. Before daylight the next
morning we were off again in the gig, and
landed on a part of the coast about six miles
to the southward of the port. We soon came
upon tracks of deer in the sandy soil, especially
round the cactus-bushes, where they had been
feeding during the night; one was speedily
started, but escaped, and soon afterwards two

IN THE PACIFIC. 283

more jumped up, one of which I killed.
Having grallocked the deer, and sent it on
board, we continued hunting all day, but with-
out any further success. Towards evening we
came to a ranch, where we took shelter for the
night. The Mexican who owned it gave us a
hearty welcome to his humble abode, and
offered to go with us in the morning. After

supper we all retired for the night, E

and myself upon a couch in the open air, the
boat's crew rolled themselves up in the boat's
sails, and the children of the establishment
were passed up, one by one, on to the flat roof
of the hut, where they stowed themselves
amongst the thatch.

Before daylight we were again astir, and,
guided by our host, started for the mountains.
We toiled for several hours, seeing many deer,
but without getting a shot, until on our return
home, when Bicketts killed a fine buck, and I
had a snap shot at another. We then returned
to the ship, and, getting under weigh, left
Escondita, and stood to the southward.

284 SPORTING ADVENTUEES

At daylight next morning we were off the
island of Catalina, a most precipitous place,
with no good anchorage, so we merely dropped
a kedge for a few hours. This island also
possesses several veins of copper, which have
been partially explored. There are some wild
goats on the island, as on most of the others in
the Gulf; also some sheep, which are said to be
wonderfully fat and well-flavoured; the natives
occasionally come over from the mainland and
hunt them with dogs. From Catalina we
returned to San Joseph, and anchored in a
snug bay on the south-west side of the island.

We found some pearl-fishers established here,
and several small craft engaged in the same
trade were anchored near. They seemed to be
doing a good business, one firm belonging to
La Paz having cleared 40,000 dollars in the
season. I was given some of these pearls, both
white, black, and pink ; they seem to be in no
way inferior to the oriental ones.

From some specimens of pearl oyster- shells
which were given me, I noticed that wherever

IN THE PACIFIC. 285

there was an accidental depression in the outer
shell, causing a corresponding rise on the inner
surface, the fish had covered it over, thereby
forming a half pearl, from which it would appear
that the animal readily accommodates itself to
the presence of a foreign body. I believe that
whole pearls could be manufactured in the same
way by the introduction of a small substance,
such as a shot, or seed, for the fish to operate
upon.

We had another day's shooting at San Joseph,
and bagged a deer, besides catching immense
quantities of fish. From thence we went back
to Pichilinque, and a few days afterwards
returned to Mazatlan.

Whilst waiting for our freight, which was
daily expected from the mines, I took the
opportunity of spending a few days on shore in
the comfortable house of Messrs. Kelly and Co.
During this time one of our men was attacked
in the suburbs of the city by a Mexican, who
inflicted some terrible wounds upon him with
his machete. On being apprised of the circum-

286 SPORTING ADVENTURES

stance, I went to the house where the poor
fellow had been carried, accompanied by our
surgeon. The man had already been attended
by a Mexican doctor, and most kindly treated
by the humble owners of the house. Some
Mexican gentlemen acted with most praise-
worthy energy on this occasion. They rode
after and captured the ruffian within a few
hours of the assault. He was brought before
the authorities and committed to prison, "pending
his final examination. The Prefect assured me
he would be shot, and said he was only too
glad of the chance, as he had not shot any one
for a long time, and he begged me to wait a
few days to witness the execution. I could not
oblige him, however, as the rainy season had
set in, and I was anxious to get off the coast
without delay.

A day or two after this I was returning from
a visit to Palmyllias, a very pretty spot some
leagues from Mazatlan, where I had been with
my friend O'Ryan, when we met Mr. Kelly and
two officers of the " Reindeer/' They had

IN THE PACIFIC. 287

thoughtfully driven out to give me the first
news of my promotion, which they had just
seen in the Gazette. Saying farewell to our
friends at Mazatlan, we sailed once more for
Acapulco, where we found Commander Anson
waiting to relieve me.

The cruise of the " Reindeer," as far as I
was concerned, was now ended; and, having
transferred the command of the ship to my
successor, I took my passage on board the
Pacific mail steamer " China " for San Fran-
cisco en route for England.

CHAPTER XIY.

ALTHOUGH naturally overjoyed at the prospect
of returning home after an absence of three
years, it would be untrue to say that I parted
from my shipmates without regret. Even for
the ship herself I had an affection ; she had
carried us safely for 50,000 miles or more, and
it was with a sad heart, for the moment, that I
took a last look at the bonnie little craft, as the
old " China " steamed out of Acapulco Bay,
and the wash from her paddles drowned the
strains of "Auld Lang Syne." The steamers
of the Pacific mail are not celebrated for speed,
and the most the old " China " could score was
200 miles a day, and sometimes not that, so
it took us ten days to reach San Francisco.

SPORTING ADVENTURES IN THE PACIFIC. 289

During a short stay in the city I enjoyed the
hospitality of the Union Club, a most excellent
institution, and had the pleasure of becoming
acquainted with Mr. Booker, our popular and
esteemed Consul, who has lived in San Francisco
ever since it was built. Having been so fortu-
nate as to have met with an agreeable companion
going the same way as myself, we started by
the Union Pacific Railway for New York.

Travelling by this route is most luxurious,
the charge for a Pulman sleeping berth is three
dollars a day, in addition to the ordinary first-
class fare, this secures a comfortable bed at
night, and, if a party of four can be arranged, a
snug little drawing-room during the day. For
these long journeys the American form of
carriage is a decided advantage, it is pleasant
to be able to stretch one's legs by walking from
one end of the train to the other, or, if one
prefers it, to enjoy a cigar on the platform,
watching the magnificent and ever-changing
scenery.

Leaving San Francisco, the line passes over

u

290 SPOETING ADVENTURES

a level, park-like country as far as Sacramento,
from whence it rises gradually to Colfax, where
the train stops for the passengers to dine. The
fare at these places is excellent, and enough to
satisfy the most fastidious, except in the matter
of wine, but with good coffee, tea, or milk, one
is better without it. The charge for a good
" square " meal is from half a dollar to a dollar,
according to the distance from a terminus.

We reached Cape Horn in time to see
this magnificent pass before dark, and arrived
at what is called the " Summit," or the highest
point of the Sierra Nevada, crossed by the
railway, the same night that we left San
Francisco. This point is 7000 feet above the
sea, but the mountains tower another 3000 feet
higher still. The view of Donner Lake, with
the full moon shining on it, was one of the most
beautiful sights I ever saw, and one could
hardly realize the terrible tragedy which oc-
curred near this peaceful spot, and from whence
the lake takes its name. The facts, as related to
me by the conductor of the train, are as follows : —

IN THE PACIFIC. 291

In the year 1846, a party of emigrants, con-
sisting of a Mr. Donner, with his wife and four
children, and about a dozen others, encamped
near the lake whilst on their way from one of
the Eastern States to seek for a new home in
California. They had a number of cattle with
them, which were lost in a snow-storm the first
night, leaving the unfortunate emigrants to face
the horrors of starvation in addition to other perils.
Some of the party made a desperate effort to
reach the nearest settlement, and, after encoun-
tering many hardships, they succeeded, but Mr.
Donner was too ill to undertake the journey,
and his wife and children, with one other, a
German, remained with him in the wilderness.

The storm continued for several weeks, and
nothing was heard of the family till the spring of
the following year, when a party of men started
out in search of them. They reached the camp
with infinite difficulty, and found but one survivor,
the German, and he was mad. The rest of the
family had perished from starvation, the German
had kept himself alive by eating the bodies of the

u 2

292 SPORTING ADVENTURES

others, and, when discovered, was greedily de-
vouring a human arm.

A good deal of fine scenery about the summit
is shut out by snow-sheds, of which there are
some forty miles completed.

Descending from the Sierra Nevada moun-
tains, the line traverses in succession the forty-
mile desert, the valley of the Humbolt river,
and the great American desert to Ogden, where
passengers who wish to visit Salt Lake City
have to change.

From Ogden to the city is two hours by rail,
the line skirts along the borders of the great
Salt Lake for thirty or forty miles, passing many
beautiful and thriving villages, and giving one
a view of the lake on the one hand, and the
Wasatch Mountains on the other.

The city is pleasantly situated at the foot of
this range, it is exceedingly pretty, and the
streets are broad and clean, with rows of trees
on either side. There are several good hotels,
some kept by Mormons, others by " Gentiles,"
as those who are not Mormons are designated.

IN THE PACIFIC. 293

"We put up at the " Townshend House," kept
by a Mormon with three wives. As we arrived
on Sunday we went to hear service performed
at the Tabernacle, an immense building capable
of accommodating 8000 people ; we heard some
very fine music and good singing, and a very
indifferent sermon, after which we went, ac-
cording to custom, to pay our respects to the
President, Brigham Young.

I have copied out verbatim an extract from
one of Brigham Young's sermons, which I
clipped from a Salt Lake paper, and which will
probably give a better idea of the character and
eloquence of this remarkable man than any
description of mine.

" Brigham5 s ultimatum to his wives, from one
of his recent sermons : —

" I wish my women to understand that what
I am going to say is for them as well as others,
and I want those who are here to tell their sisters,
yes, all the women in the community. I am
going to give you from this time till the 6th
October next for reflection, that you may deter-

294 SPORTING ADVENTURES

mine whether you wish to stay with your
husbands or not, and then I am going to set
every woman at liberty, and say to them, Now
go your way. And my wives have got to do
one of two things, either round up their shoulders
to endure the affliction of this world, and live
their religion, that is polygamy, or they must
leave, for I will not have them about me. I
will go into Heaven alone, rather than to have
scratching and fighting about me. I will set
all at liberty. What ! first wife too ? Yes !
liberate them all. I want to go somewhere or
do something to get rid of the winners.

"I do not want them to receive part of
the truth and spurn the rest out of the
doors.

" Let every man thus treat his wives ; keep-
ing raiments enough to cover his body, and say
to your wives, Take all I have and be set at
liberty; but if you stay with rne, you shall
comply with the law of God in every respect,
and that, too, without any murmuring or
whining. You must fulfil the law of God, and

IN THE PACIFIC. 295

round up your shoulders to walk up to the mark,
without any grunting."

From this it would appear that perfect har-
mony does not always prevail in the Prophet's
seraglio. In fact it is high time that this
gigantic swindle should be suppressed ; there is
no doubt, however, that the days of Mormonism
are numbered. Brigham Young, by repudiating
his wives, has done more to effect this than any
amount of oppression could have brought about.
The women are decidedly plain, and are evidently
of the servant-girl class ; most of them are
brought out from Europe, especially from Wales,
Sweden, and Norway, under false pretences,
and, I quite believe, would gladly return to their
native countries if they could.

Leaving Salt Lake City, we returned to Ogden
in time to catch the train going east.

To the westward of Ogden the best money to
have with one is American gold, or eagle dollars,
as one loses by the exchange in California on all
other coin ; even on English sovereigns there is
considerable discount. To the eastward of

296 SPOUTING ADVENTURES

Ogden, greenbacks are the best to take.
From Ogden the track again ascends rapidly,
passing through the " Devil's Gate," Weber and
Echo canons, including some magnificent scenery,
until the summit of the Rocky Mountains has
been reached.

In the neighbourhood of Ogden, Corinne,
and Evanstone, we saw immense quantities
of wild fowl. Either of these places would
be good head-quarters for a sportsman ; there
is excellent trout-fishing at the latter place.
Echo and " Sherman " are also celebrated for
sport of all kinds.

After leaving Laramie; the highest point
on the Rocky Mountains, and of the entire
route, is reached at an elevation of 8240 feet;
from thence the line descends gradually to
Omaha. Whilst crossing the prairie we saw
many herds of antelope, which seemed not the
least alarmed by the passing train, often feed-
ing within rifle-shot. We also put up several
packs of grouse or prairie chicken.

Laramie is a good central spot for sport

IN THE PACIFIC. 297

of all kinds, wapiti, antelope, and bears being
found in the neighbourhood. Grand Island
and Loup-Fork are also good places for
shooting.

I mention these places from the amount of
game we actually saw near them, and not from
hearsay. At Omaha the line crosses the
Missouri river by a magnificent bridge, to
Council Bluffs, from whence to Chicago the
scenery is very uninteresting.

Our short stay at the latter place prevented
us from taking more than a run through the
streets of this wonderful city. Chicago, after
having been twice burnt down, contains 300,000
inhabitants, and yet is but forty years old.
The breadth of the streets and the magnificence
of the houses is surprising, and scarcely any
traces of the late fire are to be seen. Bancroft Library

On that part of the route between Omaha
and Chicago known as the Burlington route, a
dining-room car is attached to the train, this
is a very great convenience, and does away
with the necessity of stopping for meals. As

298 SPOTTING ADVENTURES

good a dinner can be had in this car as in
any first-rate hotel, including wines ; the cost is
about the same. From Chicago we travelled by
the Michigan Central Railway to Detroit, where
the whole train is embarked on board a ferry
steamer and disembarked again at Windsor,
on . the Canadian shore ; from whence we
continued by the Great Western Railway of
Canada to Buffalo. Here my companion was
unfortunately taken ill with a sudden attack
of cholera. It was night-time, and there was
no doctor handy, but I got him round by
applying fourteen mustard plasters to his
stomach, combined with brandy and chloro-
dyne inside, and he was able to go on with
me the next morning to Niagara.

How any one can pretend that they are
disappointed with the Falls is to me in-
comprehensible. I can only attribute it to
ridiculous affectation ; to my mind, anything
more majestic it would be impossible to con-
ceive. The finest view is undoubtedly from
the Canadian side. The great drawback to

IN THE PACIFIC. 299

the place is the crowd of touters, car-drivers
and vagabonds of every degree who throng
the tourist at all points. "Whilst contem-
plating some magnificent view, a scoundrel
appears and shouts in one's ear, " Take yer to
the rapids for half a dollar ! " One gets
cheated at every turn. After being swindled
on the American side, we endeavoured to
escape by crossing over to the Canadian,
where we were fleeced in the most systematic,
though not so objectionable a manner. We
were induced to go to the top of a house, to
see the best view of the Falls, " free of
charge." This was all very well, but on
descending we were hustled into a side room,
surrounded by a bevy of pretty girls, and not
allowed to depart until we had invested in a
heap of trash, in the shape of agate earrings,
necklaces and brooches, which could be bought
at any seaside watering-place for half the
money. To add insult to injury, we were
expected to pay duty on our purchases on
re-crossing to the American shore. The bridge-

300 SPORTING ADVENTURES

keeper, however, had some conscience, as he
allowed us to go by, merely remarking that
"he guessed we'd paid enough already."

After a couple of days spent most pleasantly
at Niagara, we took the train for New York.
We were delayed for a few hours by a broken
bridge at Rochester, but this delay enabled us
to see the Hudson river to great advantage.
Here again, though unmolested by touters,
much of the romantic beauty of the river is
spoilt by the numerous advertisements of quack
medicines, which are posted up on every con-
spicuous point, rock, or tree, and deface the
whole landscape. What can be more ridi-
culous, not to say disgusting, than, when
following with your eye some lovely bend of
the river, to come suddenly upon " Gargling
Oil," "Vinegar Bitters," " Try Jones's Pills,"
&c., painted in such staring letters that but
little else can be seen. Not but what many
of the American advertisements have great
humour and originality in them. For instance,
an individual recommends his opening medicine

IN THE PACIFIC. 301

on account of its wonderful effect upon an
Indian, who had accidentally swallowed a clasp
knife ; when one dose of this medicine opened
the knife and killed him.

On reaching New York we put up at the
" Windsor Hotel," and on the 9th September,
1874, we embarked on board the Cunard
steamer " Russia " for England.

On leaving America I left many good friends,
more especially amongst the officers of the
United States' Navy, with whom I had had
much intercourse in the Pacific. They are, as
a rule, most courteous and hospitable, and
above any petty prejudices against the old
country. Indeed, I have always found the best
people in America are proud of their connexion
with the old country, and of her glorious deeds
in days gone by, as Englishmen may well be of
the advancement of America.

The wholesale abuse occasionally heaped upon
the English by the American Press by no means
represents the feeling of the better class, but is
written to pander to the taste of the rowdy

302

SPORTING ADVENTURES

Fenian blackguard, who is never so happy as
when abusing his native land.

A rapid and prosperous voyage across the
Atlantic brought us safely to Liverpool, where
we arrived on the 19th of September.

Appended is my bag whilst in command of
the " Reindeer."

Species of Game.

2 Wild bulls .

1 Wild pig ...

3 Wild sheep .

1 Guanaco . . .
49 Rabbits

4 Goats ....
64 Pigeons

2 Spur- winged plover
69 Partridges .

1 Woodcock .
14 Deer ....

175 Grouse
8 Chachalacas
6 Hares ....
108 Wild geese .
528 Duck, teal, and widgeon
40 Parrots and macaws
23 Californian quail .
96 Snipe ....

Where killed.
Galapagos Islands.
Falkland Islands.

Juan Fernandez.
Chili.

Straits of Magellan.
Vancouver's Island and Lower

California.
Vancouver.
Mexico.

?>
Falkland Islands and Mexico.

?> » »?

Mexico and Central America.
Lower California.
Mexico and Vancouver.

IN THE PACIFIC. 303

Species of Game. Where killed.

28 Curlew . . . Mexico.
41 Ibis ....

4 Roseate spoonbills . „

5 Scarlet flamingo . . Galapagos.
112 Other birds, names not known.

Also a varied assortment of seals, sea-lions,
ant-eaters, armadillos, and alligators, &c.

NOTE.

The guns I used were built for me by Messrs.
Powell and Son, of Carr's Lane, Birmingham.
They saw much service during the three years
I was in the Pacific, and were never out of
order. The snap-action is simple, and always
to be depended on.

W. R. K.

THE END.

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List of Publications.

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