HANDBOUND AT THE UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO PRESS THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. V ' BY B. A. WATSON, A.M., M.D. \ I / / WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIEL C. AND HARRY BEARD. PHILADELPHIA: . - J. B. LIPPINCOT.T COMPANY. 1888. Copyright, 1887, by J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED TO R E'V. THOMAS M. KILLEEN, A STEADFAST FRIEND, AN AGREEABLE COMPANION, AND A TRUE SPORTSMAN, BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. THE acme of pleasure can only be attained by the sportsman when his confreres are permitted to share with him in the excitement of the chase. In this respect the chase may be compared to a good dinner, which is always most enjoyable when partaken of in the company of con- genial spirits. A book may likewise be further compared to a dinner, since the first chapter is commonly introduc- tory to the better parts which come in the regular order of the courses, while a narrative which produces no pleas- urable excitement for the reader is like a dinner without wine. This menu has been prepared for the general reading public, but it is thought by the author that it may be es- pecially enjoyed by sportsmen and the rising generation of boys, who frequently find more pleasure in the perusal of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase than in reading those of fiction. The author is deeply indebted to the accomplished artist, Dan. C. Beard, of New York, who has so greatly assisted him in the presentation of the more interesting parts of this narrative, and also to the publishers, J. B. Lippincott Company, of Philadelphia, whose work speaks so well for the printing art in America. B. A. WATSON. JERSEY CITY, N. J., October 12, 1887. vii CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE RECREATION AND ITS OBJECTS — CLASSIFICATION OF HUNTERS— ACTIVE EXER- CISE AN EXCELLENT REMEDY FOR OBESITY — SPORT AT SHELBYVILLE, TEN- NESSEE— WHAT OCCURRED AT THE EVANS HOUSE — A FRIEND IN NEED is A FRIEND INDEED — HOME ONCE MORE i CHAPTER II. THREE DOCTORS IN SEARCH OF SPORT — OUR GUIDES — THE CHIEF, AND THE MAGNET WHICH CONTROLLED HIM — TROUT-FISHING ON SUNDAY, AND THE RESULTS WHICH FOLLOWED A VIOLATION OF THE CANADIAN LAW — CHIEF JOHN IN DISGRACE — FAILURE OF HIS PLANS 20 CHAPTER III. GRAND FISHING EXCURSION — WATTE'S CREEK VISITED BY THE GOVERNOR AND ESCULAPIUS — THEIR RETURN AND RECEPTION AT CAMP — GRAND DEER- HUNT, LED BY DR. POKORNEY — CHIEF JOHN AND HIS ASSISTANTS ARE RELIEVED FROM DUTY AND GO TO THE REAR IN DISGRACE — DR. POKOR- NEY AND OTHER ASSISTANTS 4! CHAPTER IV. THE START AND INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY — LUMBERMEN AND THEIR DRUNKEN ORGIES — TRAVELLING BY THE ROYAL MAIL STAGE IN MUSKOKA — THE PARTY ATTACKED BY FLEAS — CAMP ON CANOE LAKE— DEER-HUNTING — GOVERNOR STARTS FOR HOME — THE REMAINDER OF THE PARTY OFF FOR NEW FIELDS — CAMP ON PICKEREL LAKE — RAIN AND FISH — CROSSING THE HORKA-PORKA PORTAGE— CAMP ON ROCK LAKE — TROUT-FlSHING — CAMP NEAR LOON AND GRASS LAKES — CAMP ON SAND LAKE — HOMEWARD BOUND 61 ix x CONTENTS. CHAPTER V. PAGE THE START FOR A GRAND MOOSE- AND DEER-HUNT — SELECTION OF A PHO- TOGRAPHER AND THE CHIEF GUIDE — A ROMANTIC WEDDING AND THE HONEYMOON— ARRIVAL AT ROSSEAU VILLAGE — CANADIAN STAGE ROUTE — PROPRIETOR AND DRIVER— OUR OLD FRIEND "CHRIS" — OUR NEW-MADE ACQUAINTANCE — MR. STRUCE, OF BROOKLYN 80 CHAPTER VI. OUR DEPARTURE FROM ROSSEAU — A CHARMING MORNING AND A HEALTHFUL WALK — CAMPED NEAR SPENCE — INCIDENTS WHICH OCCURRED THERE — JOINED BY OUR GUIDES — CAMPED ON BIRCH ISLAND — CAMP-LIFE ON AHMIC LAKE — STRUCE STARTS FOR HOME — THE BALANCE OF THE PARTY OFF ON A LONG TRAMP — THE BEAVER'S TRYSTING-PLACES — THE PHOTOGRAPHER'S SPORT NEAR BURK'S FALLS — PLODDING THROUGH WOODS AFTER DARK — THE YOUTHFUL DRIVER — ARRIVAL AT SPHYNX SHOOT .... 102 CHAPTER VII. THE MOVEMENTS OF OUR HUNTING-PARTY — CROSSING THE HOR-KA-POR-KA PORT- AGE— FISHING IN ROCK LAKE — ANOTHER ADVANCE — DEER-HUNTING, ETC. — THE JOURNEY FROM TROUT LAKE TO LONG LAKE — CAMP ON LONG LAKE — MORE DEER-HUNTING — AN EXCITING CONTEST, IN WHICH THE PHOTOGRA- PHER WINS 124 CHAPTER VIII. DRYING VENISON — A GRAND AND BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAIN GORGE — THE MEET- ING AT THE BEAVER-DAM— OUR PHOTOGRAPHER LOST IN THE WILDERNESS — A LONELY NIGHT ON BUCK LAKE — THE HORRIBLE DREAM — THE LOST MAN FOUND — THE UNEXPECTED MEETING WITH A BULL MOOSE . . 146 CHAPTER IX. A SHOT AT A BULL MOOSE — FOLLOWING THE MOOSE-TRAIL — MOOSE-CALLING — BREAKING CAMP ON LONG LAKE — CAMP ON TRAIL BETWEEN UPPER LONG AND SUGAR-BUSH LAKES — BAD WEATHER AND CONSEQUENT DELAY — PREPARATION AND START ON THE RECONNOISSANCE 167 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER X. PAGE THE FIRST DINNER— KILLED A DEER — FOLLOWING A MOOSE-TRAIL — CAMPED ON THE TRAIL — PREPARATION FOR SPENDING THE NIGHT — OUR LEAN-TO — A SNOW-STORM — LONG, DREARY TRAMP— DISCOVERY OF A MOOSE- YARD — A HIGHLY-EXCITING CHASE — KILLED TWO RED DEER — A DISGUSTED AND ANGRY CAPTAIN — HONEST TOIL BRINGS REFRESHING SLEEP — THE HUNT RESUMED 189 CHAPTER XI. THE DISCOVERY OF MOOSE — THE KILLING OF TWO MOOSE AND THE WOUND- ING OF ANOTHER — OUR CAMP ON MOOSE HILL — THE RETURN TO SUGAR- BUSH LAKE — A SEVERE RAIN-STORM — RETURN TO MOOSE HILL — THE DEAD MOOSE PHOTOGRAPHED — ANOTHER EXPEDITION — THE BEAR — A SNOW-STORM — A HARD TRAMP . 210 CHAPTER XII. THE BEAR WHICH WAS NOT KILLED — FOLLOWING THE MOOSE — THE CAPTAIN KILLED THE BULL MOOSE — PACKING OUT OF THE WOODS — THE REST AT HARKNESS'S SHACK — A HARD TRAMP — BURK'S FALLS — A DEER-HUNT — ANOTHER TRIP TO CANADA IN THE COMPANY OF MY SON, A LAD OP FIFTEEN — TEACHING THE BOY TO SHOOT — KILLED HIS FIRST DEER — AN EXCITING CHASE — THE OLD DOE MAKES HER ESCAPE . . . .235 CHAPTER XIII. THE CONTINUANCE OF THE DEER-HUNT — AN EXCITING CHASE — BRILLIANT MANCEUVRING OF AN OLD BUCK — BREAKING CAMP ON THE ISLAND — A PARTRIDGE-HUNT BY THE ROADSIDE — AN EXCITING RACE BETWEEN. " JIM" AND THE OLD COCKER-SPANIEL — OUR RETURN TO MAGANETAWAN — THE TRIP FROM MAGANETAWAN TO TORONTO . . . 260 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CAMP ON LONG LAKE Frontispiece. "WE IMMEDIATELY WALKED UP TO THE OFFICE, EACH CARRYING A DOUBLE-BARRELLED SHOT-GUN, FOLLOWED BY THREE HUNTING- DOGS" Page 15 " SAY NOTHING ABOUT THE CONDITION OF OUR CLOTHING" ... "29 SWALLOWING FISH AND FISH-STORIES . "48 " HE HAS EVADED THE DOG, BUT — " "52 "TUESDAY, THE GOVERNOR AND MYSELF EACH SHOT A DEER" . . "67 "IT IS A SERIOUS THING TO GET LOST IN THE WILDS OF CANADA" . " 76 A WEDDING IN THE WILDERNESS "95 "I DON'T BELIEVE SHE KNOWS THAT SHE IS WANTED" ... " IO8 WE ARE READY FOR THE JOURNEY "129 " HE SHOT THE DEER JUST AS IT BROKE FROM COVER" . . . " *33 BEAVER-DAM AND HOUSE "150 "THE FIRST GLANCE WHICH I OBTAINED OF THIS HUGE ANIMAL WAS WHILE HE WAS STANDING WITH HIS SIDE TOWARDS ME" . . " l68 THE WOODS ARE FULL OF THEM " 201 " FIRE AT HIM !" " 213 THE DEAD MONARCH " 217 THE NEAREST SETTLEMENT " 234 FOOD FOR THE RAVENS LEFT BY BRUIN " 236 A HARD TRAMP — HOMEWARD BOUND " 242 "WE FOUND THEM STANDING ON THE DRY GROUND, WHILE THE DOE WAS LYING AT THEIR FEET AND THE HOUNDS WERE FAWNING ABOUT THEM" " 265 THE DEAD DOE " 267 THAT RETRIEVER " 285 XI 1 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. CHAPTER I. RECREATION AND ITS OBJECTS — CLASSIFICATION OF HUNTERS — ACTIVE EXERCISE AN EXCELLENT REMEDY FOR OBESITY — SPORT AT SHELBYVILLE, TENN. — WHAT OCCURRED AT THE EVANS HOUSE — A FRIEND IN NEED is A FRIEND INDEED — HOME ONCE MORE. HE prudent business man, I before making an investment or inaugurating any important change in his affairs, is accus- tomed to ask the question, Will it pay? Is it a good investment? The same question may be properly asked by any person prior to his de- parture for the great forests of the Dominion of Canada. The answer to this query must generally depend on the physical condition of the individual and his apprecia- 2 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; tion of the sports which are obtainable in these grand forests. Man, in all conditions of life, after prolonged and earnest toil, requires recreation, — i.e., a refreshment of strength and spirits ; but this cannot always be obtain- able in the same way. The overwrought workingman, in the full possession of physical energy, in perfect health, and possessed of the ordinary amount of physical strength, does not require the same sort of recreation as the sedentary, overworked student, professional or business man. In the former instance, a few days' rest, with an increased amount of sleep, serves to fully restore the temporarily depressed physical and mental vigor. The intelligent practice of the fatigued German workingman, who gathers his family about him and hies away to some neighboring grove, where he spends a peaceful and quiet holiday, thus obtaining pure air and rest, cannot be too highly commended. The whole family having spent a pleasant and profitable day in the open air, commonly return to their overcrowded and badly- ventilated apartments in the early evening; each member of the family being better satisfied with himself, and what is still better, satisfied with the others, they now partake of their frugal meal, and retire early to their humble cots, where they may sleep soundly, suffering neither from in- somnia nor frightful dreams, but awake in the morning completely refreshed. Consequently the Sabbath comes to the workingman as a complete restorer, as a day of perfect recreation. Physical exertion commonly produces only bodily fa- OR> THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 3 tigue, while the vital organs are maintained by the same power in a healthy state, and their various functions are performed in the best possible manner. It is therefore apparent that the physical condition of workingmen is not generally such as to require the active exercise which the hunter gains by the Canadian chase, especially when stalking his game ; but a high appreciation of the sport may be an ample compensation for every expenditure. It may be mentioned in this connection that various hunting-parties seek recreation in the forest in divers ways ; and consequently it is necessary to offer on this point an explanation for the benefit of the uninitiated, although no attempt will be made to give a complete classification. The heterogeneous mass of men entering the forest with guns and dogs are generally supposed to be hunters, but in fact among these may be frequently found men whose peculiarities of mind and tastes are more nearly allied to those of Oscar Wilde than to those of Daniel Boone. It is therefore natural that these game-seekers should be continually looking for a hunter's paradise in the shape of a first-class hotel, in the midst of a grand forest, from the porticoes of which can be shot the great moose, the beautiful deer, and all the other species of smaller game, while the same must be acces- sible by an elegant steamer or grand palace-car. This class of hunters are continually fault-finding, are never happy, and seem to wish their companions to be as miserable as themselves. They never enter the woods without returning to their homes disgusted and thoroughly dissatisfied. Another class, commonly calling themselves 4 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; sportsmen, frequently start from their homes heavily laden with kegs, demijohns, and numerous boxes well filled with bottles; and it may here be added that their luggage conveys a correct idea of tjhe recreation which they may be expected to obtain when partially withdrawn from the restrictions imposed upon them by the rules of civilization. It will not be necessary for the accomplish- ment of their purpose that they should traverse wide tracts of wilderness, or be supplied with the most im- proved guns, the best dogs, or a large amount of food, since the free imbibition of the spirits with which they are so abundantly supplied will assuredly give them a highly spiritual nature, in which condition they should not be expected to join in the chase or perform any other acts which commonly characterize the ordinary corporeal man. It will therefore be sufficient for their purposes that they withdraw from our crowded thoroughfares to some quiet nook, village, or grove, where, in cabin or tent, surrounded by some congenial guides, — boon companions, — they suc- ceed in whiling away a few days or weeks in a style which has always honored the memory of Tarn O'Shanter. It is not very unusual, even among these parties, when the effects of their deep imbibition have passed away, to find them engaged in target-practice, and they may occa- sionally sally forth for a few hours in search of game. It is generally a matter of some pride with these so-called sportsmen to be able to say that they shot, during their sojourn in the land of game, one or more deer, and to accomplish this purpose it is said to be not an infrequent practice with them to send out their guides with instruc- OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 5 tions to purchase one of these desirable animals, which had been previously taken in the chase by some other hunter ; the bargain having been made, the deer is brought to the ambitious sportsman, who then fires a charge of buck-shot or a rifle-bullet into the dead carcass, and on this act his claim to have shot or killed the much-coveted game is based. Having now mentioned some of the characteristics of the pseudo-sportsman, we turn, with increased pleasure, to a consideration of the more noble character, — the true hunter. The true hunter, in many particulars, resembles the true soldier, and in several respects their lives are es- sentially the same : both are inured to hardships and like- wise exposed to dangers, while unusual fatigue, severe and often prolonged deprivation, are their common lot. Both are stimulated by conquest and likewise depressed by failure. The true hunter's enthusiasm, like the true sol- dier's, resembles, in some respects, the spirit which ani- mates, under certain circumstances, the old war-horse and the decrepit hunting-dog. Instances are occasionally re- lated in which a noble charger has been compelled by ad- verse circumstances to accept service on the farm in his old age; but even now, when harnessed to the plough, we are told that this noble animal is frequently so excited by the bugle-notes sounding the cavalry charge that he rears his head and tail, cocks his ears, and dashes away in search of an unseen enemy, — showing that he has not yet lost his fires of youth, and that he still desires to participate in the bloody work of war, — to hear the boom of the cannon, the rattling shots of the carbine, or to see the flashes of the 6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; glittering sabres. The old, decrepit hunting-dog, half blinded by age, stiffened in every limb by rheumatism, having been compelled by infirmities to remain in the kitchen corner for years, is aroused to a new life by the click of a gun-lock, raises his eyes towards his master's face, staggers to his feet, and once more expresses his love of the chase by jumping about the hunter's limbs, lovingly caressing his hands, and following on with the other dogs, hunting through field and forest until his strength com- pletely fails, then uttering a dismal howl, — proclaiming his disappointment and rage caused by his inability to go farther, — falls to the ground and frequently fails to reach again the kitchen corner, but is often mercifully relieved from further suffering by death in this last effort. The true sportsman is possessed of a high degree of enthusiasm, — he joins in the chase because it gives him pleasure, — ex- citement which it produces causes him to forget, for the time, hunger and fatigue. He therefore follows the game from morning until night. His food is commonly plain, but nutritious, still no one enjoys eating more than the sports- man, since his system has been fully prepared for the food, and it may be further added that the food is adapted for the wants of the body. The hunter makes his bed on smooth mother-earth, spreads his rubber blanket over the sweet-scented balsam branches, or should his time be too much occupied with other matters, then these branches will be omitted, but without seriously interfering with his repose. It is important to remember jn this connection that those who have lived a sedentary and studious life are particu- larly prone to suffer from various forms of dyspepsia and OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 7 likewise insomnia. // may also be boldly asserted at this point, without entering into any long inquiry bearing on the etiological or pathological conditions of these morbid states, that the man who will engage in the chase with all the en- thusiasm of a true sportsman, and will follow the same a few months, will certainly Jind more benefit from this course of procedure than could possibly be obtained by the most sys- tematic restrictions in the use of food. Active exercise thus obtained will efficiently relieve obesity and also develop the muscular system. In this manner it is entirely practical, and at the same time free from danger, to reduce the weight to any desired standard, and that, too, while the diet is wholly unrestrained, except by the exigencies which are inseparable from the life of a hunter in the forest, more or less removed from the luxuries of modern civilization. In this instance a re- duction of weight is effected almost entirely by the active and prolonged exercise, which, instead of being a drudgery hard to be borne, is a noble sort of labor which gives rise to the most pleasant thoughts, and at the same time gratifies an exalted ambition. The literary man who joins in the chase with true sportsmen will very soon discover that hunting is both a science and an art ; and consequently this pastime supplies him with the necessary occupation for both body and mind. The modus operandi by which it is accomplished is easily comprehended by any thoughtful person. The loss of adipose tissue depends almost entirely, in this case, on the exercise taken, while the increased muscular development is due to the same agency. It will therefore be observed 8 .'.. THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; that depriving- fat patients of certain sorts of food which are frequently considered by them as essential to their happiness is not required by this method of treatment The athlete generally depends for the reduction of weight on this system of active exercise rather than on any restrictions of diet. Furthermore, there is no doubt that if this simple method of treating obesity was fully understood it would be very popular with those affected with a tendency to an over-accumulation of fat, since per- sonal deformity would thus be avoided, and the individual so relieved would be enabled to perform his role in life as a worker and bread-winner with increased ease. The science of cookery has now attained to such a degree of perfection as to promote epicurean tastes, and likewise to lead to extensive gormandizing, especially among the rich and those of sedentary habits. Its evil effects become most apparent in middle life, while it can- not be denied that in many instances it is carried forward into old age. During childhood and early life, the age of great physical activity, obesity is rarely seen. This fact speaks volumes in favor of active physical exercise as an agency for the prevention of obesity ; but it is not to be supposed that every person overburdened with fat will possess the required energy to exercise sufficiently to materially diminish this undesirable burden. Many of them will be seen waddling about our cities, even when the temperature is below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, puffing and blowing like a wind-broken horse while being exercised, and when the weather becomes warmer these unfortunate mortals are compelled to employ fans, seek rest in shady OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 9 nooks, imbibe ice-water and other cooling drinks in order to relieve, so far as possible, their present misery. The efforts made by these very corpulent persons to secure merely present relief forcibly remind me of the action of an over-fattened hog on a hot July day, when it half buries itself in the cool earth, mud, or any other cooling substance which may be accessible to the poor sufferer, and in which it commonly remains, uttering only an occasional grunt, until food is again placed before it, when it once more gorges itself. So lives our typical fat man. So lives our over-fattened hog. Both live only to eat, but do not eat to live. Let it be ever remembered that physical activity is antagonistic to an excessive accu- mulation of fat in the whole animal creation, and, conse- quently, the ever-active weasel, fox, and many other active animals which might be mentioned are never burdened with obesity. It may be boldly asserted that physical activity is the very best prophylactic agent which has ever been employed against obesity, and that it is also entitled to a high rank as a curative means in the treatment of the same morbid condition. It must be evident to every thinking person that the time spent by our overworked sedentary students, professional and business men at Long Branch, Newport, Saratoga, and other fashionable resorts does not yield them ample returns : it does not supply them with com- plete recreation, but only idleness, — a condition of things better calculated to do good to the overworked farmer and mechanic. This remark is likewise applicable to the majority of the middle-aged ladies who are found lounging 10 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; away their time in these places, while the younger ladies, who dance, ride on horseback, and otherwise exercise, can- not be placed in the same category. There are certain conditions which are absolutely necessary to a high degree of bodily health, and among them may be mentioned, as being of the highest impor- tance, physical exercise, pure air, the proper quantity of wholesome food, and sufficient sleep. Having given our attention to the subject of obesity, we will now turn to the consideration of some of the affections connected with the alimentary canal and nervous system. These diseases are specially common among" sedentary persons and those engaged in literary pursuits ; therefore professional and business men are frequently their victims. I am able to call to mind the case of a lawyer who has always been very irregular in regard to the quality and quantity of food which he has taken since he commenced the practice of his profession, and, as might naturally be anticipated, inasmuch as he has entirely dis- regarded all the well-known laws of digestion for about fifteen years, he is now paying the penalty which is required of those who violate these natural regulations, since he suffers severely from dyspepsia. However, it should not be inferred that his disregard of the natural laws has been fully and specifically expressed in the above statement, since, in addition to what has already been said, it should have been added that he has generally regulated his hours for sleep by the amount of time which he has been able to spare from study and other mental efforts ; and inasmuch as he has never been able to keep up with these demands,. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. TI his hours for repose have been generally insufficient and very irregular. Let us now enter more specifically into a consideration of his irregularities of diet, and it may be here assumed, for the purpose of illustrating our subject, that this busy man has been accustomed to rise at six o'clock in the morning, breakfast hurriedly on a cold potato, rush off to business, keep himself at the boiling heat of excitement until one P.M., when he may enter some eating-house, swallow quickly some sauer-kraut and ice-cream, going through about the same business performance in the afternoon as in the morning, maintaining about the same temperature ; but when six o'clock P.M. is reached you may possibly find him sitting down at a well-provided table, bolting, as rapidly as possible, his dinner, that he may be able to spend at least six hours after this meal in studying a case which he is expected to try in court the following day. I have been informed, however, that he occasionally misses a dinner, and that if search be made in his bedroom you will find him there, lamenting his sad fate and complaining loudly of a severe pain in his abdomen. The same gentle- man further disregards the rules of health by an intem- perate use of tobacco, — chewing as well as smoking, — and frequently entering the dining-room while using the weed, which he only discards in time to begin the mastication of food. Is it strange that this gentleman, having followed such a life for about fifteen years, should now find himself suffering with dyspepsia, insomnia, and hypochon- driasis ? Is it not strange, on the contrary, that he is still living? The practical question which now presents itself 12 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; for our consideration is, How can he be benefited ? Does he require medicine ? The answer to this question must be emphatically, no ! He must have recreation, and having been thus brought into a healthy state, he must then be brought to obey the laws of nature, to live and work like a rational man. The unexplored wilderness affords the most inviting field for the required recreation in these cases, and offers, at the same time, the most favorable conditions for the restoration of this class of cases, especially if the patient can be prevailed upon to lead the life of an active, indus- trious hunter. In the wilderness the patient is removed from every temptation to any sort of mental labor ; he is undisturbed by business or any other outside communications, since he is far from post-office or telegraph. The new order of business, if engaged in stalking game, is tramp, tramp, during the live-long day, while the mind is occupied with pleasant anticipations of prospective or present sport ; the blood courses through its vessels with unwonted vigor, the lungs are fully and rapidly inflated with pure air, which very seldom happens among sedentary persons, although so important to the health of all classes ; a wholesome appetite is engendered by this active exercise, and after spending a delightful evening around the brightly blazing camp-fire, where a rehearsal of the adventures of the day, with story and song, enliven the hour, the sportsman retires to his couch beneath his canvas tent or lean-to, where his blankets have been spread for him by his guides on balsam boughs which are giving forth their agreeable perfume. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 13 On these he soon falls asleep without rocking or song, — sleeps during the entire night, and awakens in the morning fully refreshed and prepared for another day's toil. Thus passes day after day with the true sportsman in the forest. Illustrating the health-giving power of active exercise, the author will here briefly refer to a trip which he re- cently made to Shelbyville, Tennessee, in company with his legal friend whose case has already been mentioned ; and here it should be also stated that this lawyer had ter- minated, on the day of his departure for the South, .a series of important trials, and was, therefore, in a highly nervous state. This nervous excitability was very marked in all his movements and doings during our journey. We reached War Trace about three o'clock in the morn- ing, rested until six A.M., when we started out with our guns and dogs for Shelbyville, distant from the former place about eight miles. We had determined to spend the day with the quail, which are very abundant in this part of the State, and to bring up in time for the evening meal at the Evans House in Shelbyville. It was a warm autumn day, but the excitement of the sport kept us pretty steadily in motion. It was not, therefore, until late in the afternoon when we began to think of food, rest, and shelter; and now, inasmuch as we had made a good bag of birds, it seemed entirely proper to abandon any further search for game and take the direct route for the hotel, which was reached about five o'clock. The moment we left the fields, en- tered the road, and began to plod along towards our destination, the spirit of the sportsman immediately 14 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. abandoned us, and then we realized that we were sorely fatigued: every step was painful, the walking was miser- able drudgery ; we walked a few rods and then halted ; started on again ; our progress was slow, but we could not remain where we were, — we must go forward. The desired haven was at last reached. We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs, registered our names and that of the gunner who accompanied us, asked for our rooms, to which we were promptly conducted, threw off some portions of our wardrobe which had been burdensome during the greater part of the day, indulged momentarily in a brevet-bath, dropped without further delay on the beds with which our rooms were provided, and within ten minutes each man in the party was sleeping soundly, and continued to sleep for about two hours, when we were called to the evening meal, arose from our beds greatly refreshed, made our toilets, after which we partook of a hearty meal and again returned to our rooms, where we recounted some of the events of the day, then retired in good order to our couches, where we all slept soundly during the entire night, my legal friend forgetting for the time being that he had ever suffered from insomnia or anything else. We were aroused in the morning by the loud ringing of a bell, which, in this hotel, was used to announce the time for rising and also the proper moment for entering the dining-room for meals. We responded in due time to the demand which had been made upon us by this ringing, and consequently we were prepared to obey the !6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; second summons which informed us that breakfast was now ready. However, owing to greater promptness on the part of others, there were seated around the large hotel table about twenty persons at the time we en- tered the dining-room, who were observed to cast side- long glances at us without speaking. Few words were spoken during this meal by any of the guests, but our party was closely eyed. It was not, however, until after breakfast that the lawyer and myself learned the purport of all this when our gunner, Alfred Goldsmith, called my legal friend aside and informed him that the proprietor of the hotel did not seem to be quite at ease in regard to the nature of our business. The lawyer informed me, after his interview with Mr. Goldsmith, that the proprietor had been quizzing our gunner in regard to our intentions in visiting that section of country. When informed by the latter that we came from New York to Tennessee for a few days' quail-shooting, the proprietor expressed, emphatically, his doubts in regard to the accuracy of this statement, and promptly informed Goldsmith that he was not prepared to believe that the gentlemen with him were such fools as to travel so far merely to kill a few birds. This remark was too much for Goldsmith ; he had no answer for it. The proprietor observing his silence, in- formed him that he had had the honor of entertaining, within a few months, Jesse James and his party, and that while stopping in this hotel they had occupied the same rooms in which we were now lodged. Goldsmith was now asked if he was familiar with the different points of interest about Shelbyville. He answered in the negative. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 17 The proprietor then mentioned many objects of local interest, among others the hangman's tree, situated about four miles from the hotel, and also added that there had already been hung about a half-dozen persons from its branches. Poor Goldsmith was now thoroughly frightened, and therefore communicated promptly with my legal friend, in order that any threatening misfortune might be avoided. The lawyer and myself having learned that there was really some anxiety manifested in regard to our intentions, promptly determined to call to our assist- ance John Royall, our former classmate, now living near this hotel, and who was sufficiently acquainted with my legal friend to be able to vouch for his honesty and truthfulness. There was no time lost, inasmuch as we proceeded immediately to the office and asked to be directed to the drug house of John Royall & Co. The hotel clerk gave the required information, and my legal friend promptly departed, determined to have all these suspicions speedily removed, consequently I was not sur- prised when I was requested, half an hour later, to meet Mr. Royall in the hotel office. An introduction to the proprietor by Mr. Royall was the next business in order. The hotel proprietor, soon after this introduction by Mr. Royall, took occasion to interview him privately. The result of this interview having proved entirely satisfactory to our host, a new and more pleasant relation with us was immediately inaugurated in the hotel. The proprietor and the guests no longer regarded us with either suspicion or anxiety. The former, however, remarked subsequently to Mr. Royall, with whom he was very well acquainted, that jg THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; it did, at first, seem very strange that gentlemen would travel so far to shoot a few little birds ; and he had thought it much more probable that we were in the employ of the United States government for the purpose of hunting up moonshiners, who at the time were making much trouble in the Southern States. It may now assist some of my readers if I offer a slight explanation in regard to the cause of the excitement which we had so unintentionally produced. It should be first stated, in this connection, that neither the quail nor any other small birds are often hunted by gentlemen in that vicinity, but it does occasionally happen that some citizen is seen carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun for the purpose of taking the life of a fellow-man, or with the intention of defending himself against those enemies who are supposed to be seeking his blood. An interesting instance of the latter was related to us while sojourning in Shelby ville. Our old classmate and friend not only righted matters for us at the hotel but joined in our field sports, introduced us to his friends, who vied with him in entertaining us, gave us grand dinners, and paid us many other attentions, which seems to be only a part of the true hospitality which per- vades the South. Like the other pleasant parts of our lives, our stay in Shelbyville had its end ; and having spent nearly two weeks with our new-made friends, we returned to our homes much improved in health, my legal friend being now able to sleep, while my own diabetic trouble had been much improved. The question may be properly asked, if we spent our OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. I9 time in the best possible manner. I am able to assert posi- tively that our time was spent most agreeably. The field sports were for us true recreation, but these splendid en- tertainments must be classed with the milder forms of dissipation. 2O THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; '., CHAPTER II. THREE DOCTORS IN SEARCH OF SPORT — OUR GUIDES — THE CHIEF, AND THE MAG- NET WHICH CONTROLLED HIM — TROUT- FISHING ON SUNDAY, AND THE RESULTS WHICH FOLLOWED A VIOLATION OF THE CANADIAN LAW — CHIEF JOHN IN DISGRACE — FAILURE OF HIS PLANS. HE author desires to preface this narra- tive with the statement that nearly nine years have elapsed since these events transpired, and, inasmuch as no notes were taken at the time of the occur- rences, it may be necessary for the •*r reader to make some allowance for want of accuracy in some of the minor details. Furthermore, inasmuch as my companions were exceed- ingly modest men, who might blush even at the sight of their printed names on these pages, we will designate the leader of our party as Governor, a title which well becomes the aristocratic dignity of this fine old gentleman. A fur- ther description of the Governor, as he appeared at the time of which we are now writing, may possess additional interest for our readers ; and therefore we will add that, although we have here spoken of him as an old gentleman, it is quite doubtful if he had then attained his sixtieth year. Nevertheless, his hair was already silvered with age, while his step was slow and slightly unsteady; figure erect; height about five feet ten inches ; possessed of a rather broad chest, while in other respects his form approximated OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 2I the aldermanic ; complexion light; face full well rounded, partially covered by side-whiskers, and showing at various points enlivening reddish tints caused by a dilation of the capillary blood-vessels ; eyes moderately large, and of a grayish color ; while neither the nose, mouth, nor chin pos- sessed any marked peculiarities calling for a particular description. His manner of speech was slow and often hesitating, occasionally expressing his wishes and views by silence rather than words. He also maintained a dignified bearing under all circumstances, however trying the situa- tion, and was never known, even in the backwoods, to remove his high choker or spotless linen. He would not even drink tea or coffee from any other vessel than pure china, while a silver spoon, knife, and fork were absolutely essential to his happiness. It must already be apparent to our reader that the Governor possessed, in a very high degree, those important qualifications which so admirably fitted him for the performance of the manifold duties of an ambassador rather than those of a high general or an adventurous leader; consequently I am fully assured that no surprise will be felt when I assert that a further perusal of this chapter will establish the fact that it was in the per- formance of his ministerial duties that he won his chief laurels. The other members of this famous hunting-party occu- pied subordinate positions ; consequently no detailed de- scription will be given of them, although we shall hereafter speak of one as Esculapius and the other as Scribe ; while the name by which the former is commonly known among his friends might indicate to the uninitiated that his ancestry 22 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; were originally inhabitants of Finland. It may, however, in this instance, be pardonable to say of Esculapius that his personal appearance, conversation, and movements all declare to the world that he is a sturdy member of the medical profession, possessed of a strong belief of the propriety of enforcing the laws of self-preservation, while the frequency with which he discharged his gun when in the pursuit of game was certainly sufficient to satisfy his companions that he believed gunpowder was made to be burned ; but the effect of these shots having never been known, it must always remain an open question whether the game or game-seeker occupied the safer position. It was early in the month of September when this party took their departure from Jersey City by way of the Erie Railroad, leaving behind them Gotham, with all its wicked, noisome, and enchanting surroundings. Nothing transpired worthy the attention of the Scribe until we reached the Canadian custom-house on the north side of the Niagara River. Here we met a fine old Irish gentleman, — Canadian custom-house officer, — who exam- ined our baggage, passed and properly marked the same, and then made himself known to us as a brother-sports- man possessing a lively interest in our prospective sports. I cannot with this brief notice pass so lightly by this mag- nificent specimen of the human family, with whom I had not previously met, although since that meeting I have had several opportunities to listen to his lively stories and enjoy his generous hospitality. I believe he is the son of a dis- tinguished major who at some former time commanded a Canadian fort in the vicinity of the Niagara Falls, having OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 2$ received his commission from the English government. The major's son, the present custom-house officer, stands fully six feet and three inches without boots ; is as straight as an arrow, well proportioned, and possessed of a military bearing; while, in addition to all this, he is prompt and courteous in the discharge of his official duties. Having examined our baggage on this occasion, he entered our car, where he remained in conversation with us nearly an hour, until our train was ready to proceed. In this conversation he imparted to us much practical information relating to the selection of guides, the Canadian localities in which we would be most likely to find game, etc. In answer to our inquiry in regard to the habits of the Indian guides, he replied, "They are generally lazy, filthy fellows, less desir- able as companions and servants than the native Canadian trappers and backwoodsmen." In support of these views here expressed he gave us a detailed statement of per- sonal observations made while in camp with some friends who had employed Indian guides. The old gentleman spoke particularly of an observation made by himself in the early morning, while the Indian guide was engaged in cleaning the frying-pan preparatory to cooking the break- fast for the hunters. In this instance, the weather being warm, the wardrobe for the body was limited to a single garment, which he now saw the " noble red man" using for the purpose of drying and cleansing the more important cooking utensil. In explanation of the garment, — size, texture, etc., — he added that it was a common towel which the hunters had brought with them for the purpose of dry- ing the hands of the guides while engaged in cooking, etc., 24 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; a refinement wholly incomprehensible to the Indian mind, and consequently it had been employed for a very different purpose. He also spoke of their long, unkempt hair, its numerous inhabitants, the effects produced by shaking and brushing it over food and blankets, with much of the same nature. During the narration of these somewhat impor- tant events I had watched carefully the deepening expres- sions on the Governor's face : dark clouds had gathered ; I could readily read " No red man need apply ;" while even the countenance of Esculapius was no less expressive ; but here I read " Death to the dirty dogs ; I have no sympathy with them." The Governor's feelings were certainly too deep to find expression in words at this time. He had remained entirely silent during the whole conversation. Esculapius had spoken only a few words, merely in mono- syllables ; he was apparently overwhelmed with the situa- tion. The old custom-house officer's face was now wreathed in smiles : he had put it forcibly, had watched carefully the effects of the narrative on these amateur sportsmen. As our train was now ready to start, he bade us good-by, wished us success and a pleasant time in Canada, and we were off for the woods. We proceeded from Niagara Falls immediately to To- ronto, remaining overnight at the Queen's Hotel. In the mean time the Governor telegraphed to various persons in different parts of the province of Ontario for guides, etc. Replies having been received, it was determined to start for Bracebridge some time during the following day, where we would meet guides who had already been selected for us through the efforts of the Governor. OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 25 In accordance with this decision we left Toronto in the afternoon, travelled by rail as far as the Muskoka wharf, which is situated on Lake Muskoka, and from this point by a small steamer, which reached Bracebridge about midnight. O O The instant the steamer touched its wharf at this point three guides came on board, sought out the Governor, held a brief interview with him, caught up our luggage and quickly passed from the boat to the shore, where they were completely enveloped in darkness, as there were no lights on the wharf and the steamboat was but dimly lighted. It was, therefore, difficult for us to follow these guides to the hotel where we had determined to spend the remainder of the night. The darkness was so intense that even after our eyes had become accustomed to the changed condition due to our passage from the badly-lighted boat to the absolutely unlighted streets of the frontier village, our guides, though preceding us only a few paces, were still completely invisible. It was during this trying period that the chief ingeniously came to our assistance by uttering from time to time shrill war-whoops, which at this moment recalled to the mind of the Scribe the doings and suffer- ings of the former inhabitants of this land, — the ancient Hurons. Having reached the hotel, we were conducted to the bar-room and office, which was dimly lighted with a single kerosene lamp. This light rendered visible the forms and faces of our guides, and consequently enabled us to form our own ideas of the persons with whom we were expected to associate during the next few days. We now saw standing before us our three guides. The 26 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; leader was a man of small stature, about thirty-five years of age, with an erect figure and rather active in his move-; ments. This man, whose name would probably have been written " Bottcher" had he been unfortunate enough to be born in Germany, we will now designate as John. The chief guide was accompanied by a young brother, only seventeen years old, who was to go with us. This boy was small in figure, resembled somewhat his brother, and will hereafter on these pages be mentioned by the name of Frank. The third, a man standing about six feet without shoes, erect figure, well proportioned in every part of the body, with a glossy black face, curly black hair, flat nose, and projecting heels, was certainly the largest man in our party, and proved a very efficient and honest guide. We will christen this man "Jim," and let the reader be assured that although his skin was black he was in every other respect " white." During his stay with us we found him at all times faithful in the discharge of his duties and likewise strictly honorable, preferring to be discharged from our service rather than that we should be balked in our efforts to obtain sport. It was settled in this bar-room, prior to our retiring to our rooms for sleep, that we should start at an early hour the next morning for Baysville, a little hamlet situated on the south branch of the Muskoka River, near " Lake of Bays." This beautiful lake is sit- uated about fourteen miles northeast of Bracebridge and one mile from Baysville. The chief guide had strongly recommended this lake ; had spoken of it as the "sportsman's paradise" ; and it afterwards was made plain to our minds that he, at least, OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 27 enjoyed some especial pleasures in this land, which for com- plete happiness did not, however, require the use of either gun or rod. We learned from our guides that we could reach our destination either by land or water : the canoes could be employed to transport us with our baggage through the south branch of the Muskoka River, but it would be more expeditious to take a wagon at Bracebridge, place the three canoes and other impedimenta in it, drive over the rough wood road to Baysville, and then take passage by the river to the lake. The next morning found our party, with the exception of the guides, fully prepared for the start at an early hour. The latter were now busy in gathering in the canoes, pro- visions, etc. It was probably about eleven o'clock when we left the hotel. The day was pleasant, the sun shone brightly ; the almost continuous cries of the blue jay were the only sounds emanating from the forest. The country traversed was very hilly ; large rocks were found in the wood road ; deep ravines were spanned by stilted corduroy bridges, which swayed from side to side as our wagon passed over them. Furthermore, as if to add to the ex- citement of the journey, one of the horses in the team which had been hired for this occasion was both vicious and balky, and seemed to enjoy kicking even better than eating. The Governor, whose peculiarities have already been men- tioned, seemed greatly to prefer walking to riding this day, a fact that may be partially explained by informing the reader that the only seat provided in the wagon was in close proximity to the vicious heels, which were handled 28 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; with great dexterity. The day passed on ; many halts were made to rest the team, and during one of these the Scribe went a short distance into the woods, where he shot a pair of wild pigeons and soon returned with them to the wagon. We reached Baysville about one hour before sunset : the canoes were promptly placed in the water and found to be leaking badly ; but there was now no time for repairs, for we were anxious to reach our destination as soon as pos- sible in order to make ready for spending the night on a point of land near where the river comes to the lake. I have already said that the canoes were leaking badly, but this gives the reader an entirely inadequate idea of their true condition. They were certainly unfit for service, — old, broken, rotten birch structures. The guides pro- portioned the luggage to the supposed carrying capacity of the frail barks : guns, dogs, rods, and blankets were placed in position, and then we were told to seat ourselves, each in the stern and on the bottom of the canoe which had been previously assigned to us. It should be under- stood that each gentleman in the party was provided with a separate canoe, which was managed by an individual guide. Frank had charge of the vessel carrying the Gov- ernor, Jim was with Esculapius, and John paddled for the Scribe. Prior to taking our departure from Baysville each gen- tleman in the party had been provided with a dish for the purpose of dipping out the water which found its way into these leaky vessels. It was found, however, impossible to keep them afloat more than a few moments at any time even by the most energetic action on our part. The OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 2g guides, therefore, kept close in to the river-bank, and when it became apparent that a canoe would soon, sink it was quickly paddled to the shore, drawn upon the dry land and the water emptied out. Let the kind reader now imagine himself seated in such a craft as I have just described, under the same circumstances, and I think he will fully excuse me if I say nothing about the condition of our clothing, etc. "Say nothing about the condition of our clothing." During this short journey from Baysville to the lake our sturdy friend Esculapius completely lost his patience, and pitched a poor little water-spaniel off the canoe into the water. This was a dog that the guides had borrowed for us at Bracebridge, that we might at least have some canine company while hunting partridges. The poor dog did not have much reputation as an assistant in hunting, but I really think he must have possessed a great deal of dignity, inasmuch as he never showed himself in our presence again. Esculapius was very frequently reminded of this sad 30 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; event while we were in the woods, but his spirited reply was that he could not allow his own life to be jeopardized by any dog. The Governor remained silent during most of this journey, but his countenance expressed disgust, and we do not believe he has yet sufficiently recovered to speak patiently of these occurrences. In due time we arrived at the designated spot where we were to spend the night. We saw now a small clearing, possibly about two acres of meadow-land, and in the clear- ing there had been erected, near the lake-shore, a small frame barn. Prior to our arrival the grass growing on this field had been cut and gathered into this building, prepared for its reception. The sun was still shining; an enchant- ing view was spread out before us. Here were the clear waters of an inland lake, probably about ten miles in length, and varying in width from one-half to nearly three miles, surrounded with hills which were covered with virgin forest; while as yet there were only two or three small clearings visible to us from the point where we had halted for the night. The lake-shore at this point was sandy, wood convenient, and all of the essential conditions for a pleasant camp. The entire party, including guides, were not slow to leave their bath-tubs, — so-called birch-bark canoes, — and no regrets were expressed that we were once more on land. The luggage was quickly removed and placed in such a position as to favor drying, a process which was still further aided by starting a fire. The tent with which our party was provided, a fine commodious one, was finally erected after a protest on the part of our chief guide, who declared that it was entirely unnecessary, as we OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 31 could sleep so nicely on the fresh hay in the barn. The proposition to sleep in the barn was opposed by the Scribe, an old soldier, who expressed a decided preference for a bed of balsam boughs beneath the clean canvas; but the Governor and Esculapius favored the proposition made by John, who was supposed by them to know very well what was best for us under these circumstances ; therefore the tent was employed, while we remained at this point, only as a baggage- and mess-room. The tent having been erected and a fire built, the labor next in order was the preparation, by the guides, of the evening meal, which consisted of broiled ham, broiled pigeon, bread, butter, and tea. The labors of the day had prepared us for the full enjoyment of this meal, which was followed by the free use of cio-ars, which we had brought with us. We sat about ^>