r-NRLF 25 EbS THE ORTSMAFS VADE-MECUM Rotes on Shooting. HIMALAYA "FIELD" OFFICE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS, E.G HORACE Cox, PRICE T^IVO C5M I K* I.I NOB. (REGISTERED,) A H 1 Ck FOR GOLFING AND SHOOTING /-YUlC?, GOWNS AND SUITS. WATERPROOF HIGHLAND CAPES, SCOTCH TWEEDS, ULSTERS, ISLE OF HARRIS HOMESPUNS, TRAVELLING COATS, ST. KILDA HOMESPUNS, TRAVELLING WRAPS, SHETLAND HOMESPUNS, MOST SUITABLE CLOTHS FOR FISHING, SHOOTING, AND TOURING, &c. HAND-KNIT STOCKINGS AND SOCKS. SHAWLS, WRAPS, AND PLAIDS, TRAVELLING RUGS. HIGHLAND SUITS, IN ALL THE CLANS, MADE TO ORDER. PATTERNS OF MATERIALS SENT THE ROYAL SCOTCH WAREHOUSE, 115 AND 115A, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W, Telegraphic Address "SCOT ADIE," London. SCHULTZE GUNPOWDER (SMIOKELESSS). IMPROVED, WATERPROOFED. THE x^g^ * ER CO. EY3 HUE. TRAI TRE LIBRARY MARK. OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PI NIG. PRESENTED BY » THE GK, PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND LBLO» 1886> 1887 THE HU] MRS' PRUDE*CE W. KOFOID THE GUI 87, 1888, 1889. THE ME! Competitions To be had j-vcuaix ouu xu v/o».u&x«gcci liwui c*u i^v^^v/^ «».«*« _ Balers, and by Traders wholesale at the Offices of THE SCHULTZE GUNPOWDER CO. LXIMIITIEID, 32, GEESHAM STREET, LONDON, E.G. CAUTION . — " Schultze " is the oldest, lest known, and most reliable Smokeless Powder, and the public is cautioned against inferior and imitation powders. THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM FOB THE HIMALAYAS. SHIKAR DRESS, ± . THE Sportsman's Vade-Mecum FOE THE Himalayas: CONTAINING NOTES ON SHOOTING, OUTFIT, CAMP EQUIPMENT, SPORTING YARNS, ETC., FULLY ILLUSTRATED. WITH INDEX. BY K. C. A. J. LONDON: HORACE COX, "THE FIELD" OFFICE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS, E.G. 1891. LONDON : PRINTED BY HORACE COX, BREAM'S BUILDINGS, B.C. CONTENTS. Guns and Rifles .po#6 2 Ammunition 5 Useful Articles 9 Dress 29 Camp Equipment 34 Stores 43 Medicines 43 Writing Materials, Maps, &c. 44 Summary of Kit, &c 45 Eemoving and Drying Skins, &c 47 General Notes 52 Conclusion 58 Sporting Yarns 60 Chapter L— Black Buck 62 II.— Oorial 71 III.— Chinkarah 77 „ „ — Bustard 78 „ „ — Coolun 80 IV.— Markhor 81 V.— Ibex 89 „ VI.— Gooral 97 „ VIL— Barasingh 99 „ VIII.— Thar 102 „ IX.— Musk Deer 104 „ X.— Bears 106 Index . 117. M314Q99 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM FOR THE HIMALAYAS. WHENEVER the annual shooting season in the glorious Himalayas draws near, many an eager sportsman commences preparing his battery, kit, and stores, for a trip to one of those nullahs where the best heads are to be found, known to the favoured few. What a hurry, bustle, and race there is to get into Kashmir and push on at once, with some celebrated shikarie, to the nullah where Jones got the big ibex, or to the valley where Smith got the grand markhor, or to that part of Ladak where last year Robinson saw and stalked, unsuccessfully, the largest Ovis ammon in the world ! The men from Bombay have the best of it, compared with those from Bengal, as they get a month's start, and can reach the ground earlier, provided the various snow passes are open ; if still closed they have to put up with long, wearying delays, which detract much from the total pleasure of the trip. As they have to leave in September, they cannot have much of a time with the red deer (Bara singh), whose horns are likely to be in velvet until the last week of that month, so there is some consolation for the Bengal men. Well, every man has an idea of his own, sometimes founded on his past experience, sometimes on that of others, and in these notes it is intended to review the most useful patterns of different things taken with him by a sportsman, and the difficulties he may encounter, founded on the experience of the writer. If others find them as useful and suitable as he did during his trips in those regions, he will feel that they were not kept in vain. B THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM G-UNS AND ElFLES. This may be well styled a dangerous subject, as to mention individual makers would lead to the supposition that it was worth my while to puff them; I must therefore omit all names, and trust my readers to believe me when I say I have tried and fired weapons by most well-known, and by some unknown, makers. In the latter category are included those who are local and do not advertise in any papers that have passed through my hands, besides those who have joined the great majority and are now forgotten. From all I have tried I have drawn my own deduc- tions, and to-morrow could select a gun from one house and a rifle from another without any deliberation as to which to choose for a name. No matter where you buy your weapons, try them yourself — at 100, 150, and 200 yards for the rifle ; at 40 yards for the gun. Diagrams are perfectly correct and dependable when supplied, but it is a fact that they have been made by men who have much experience and practice, and represent what can be done with the weapon when in their hands. There are many reasons why you cannot do as well, and, unless you can make fairly average shooting with both barrels, try another and another weapon until you get what you want. One of the commonest sources of irregular shooting is the weight of the pull-off of the triggers ; for a rifle they must be heavy, otherwise the left hammer may fall on the explosion of the right barrel. But they should be alike, and you should be thoroughly accustomed to the strain required. Last winter a friend of mine made vile shooting with a gun he had selected after trial at a well-known maker's ; he shot so badly that at last he appealed to me. I tried the gun at rabbits bolting across narrow rides cut through high gorse, found the pull-off excessive, told him so, and he had it rectified, making excellent practice subsequently. When firing snap shots with a rifle you may not heed the pull-off, but at the end of a long stalk, after a good head, you will find that an excessive strain on the forefinger is by no means conducive to good shooting. Tears ago I had a wonderful short-barrelled 12-bore rifle, with patent eccentric triggers ; snap-shooting was painful, as the triggers came back over half an inch before the hammers could fall ; but FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 3 in a stalking shot you had only to press lightly, and gradually the trigger came back, the hammer falling with the sights unmoved, from the time aim had been taken. I do not recommend this pattern, but just mention it as a specimen of how circumstances alter cases. A Gun for the Himalayas should be 12-bore, breech-loading (but not complicated) , with cylinder barrels ; a choke is unsuited for ball, and most of the game require a pretty big circle of shot to catch them swooping down and around small glens. I would prefer steel or laminated steel barrels, and hammers below line of sight ; springless strikers ; bar locks, to insure full thickness of good wood at the small where the great strain comes if the gun falls ; top-snap treble-grip action ; chambered for Eley's cases ; weight at least 7flb. Be sure you get a solid oak and leather case for it, with reliable turning-over and re-capping machines, measures, cleaning rod, screwdriver, bottles of lock and rangoon oil, wad-cutter, rammer, pull-through barrel cleaner, spare strikers, nipple-wrench for fitting same, bullet-mould, &c. ; you can leave oat the machines and measures when going to the hills, if you are sure you will not be reloading, and fill up the space with gun rags ; but mind you have spare strikers ; a broken one may be the source of much discomfort, if not of actual danger, unless replaced. The Rifle may be either '450, '500, or magnum '500. I do not like '577 ; it is too large for the smaller game, and unnecessarily powerful for the larger. Just before leaving India I was corre- sponding with a well-known maker about a '450 magnum to take 5 drams powder, and to-morrow I would choose that. At the time I was using a '450 made by him for 4 drams, but I used 4|, and attribute my success to the flatter trajectory even the half dram extra insured. I believe this rifle will kill all Himalayan game if handled fairly, and cannot see why a sportsman should require one that will kill everything, regardless of where it is hit. If you do not like such a bore, get the '500 magnum, sighted for 6 drams. You may as well have the flattest trajectory made, for on many occasions a slight error in judging distance will cause a miss, and opportunities cannot be thrown away — they are by nc means plentiful. I recommend the solid, long-drawn brass cases ; the coiled do not last as well, nor fire as strong, I believe, and the bottle-shaped give a greater strain to the breech-end of the barrels at the moment of ignition. I have also found that the bottle- B 2 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM shaped require swedging before they can be used again, while the long-drawn may be fired many times without any such operation ; I never swedged my old '450 or -500 cases, and used them over and over again. So much for the bore. The next point is whether it is to be a single or double ; if you can afford it, let it be the latter, but if money is an object it is better to have a really first-rate single than any second-rate double. My '450 was a single, and I never lost or missed game owing to its being so, neither was my life ever in danger from a wounded animal. It may be said I was lucky ; but I think I ran little risk, for I never tried shots at bears up above me ! I had decided on a double "450 magnum by the same maker, when duty called me out of India, and, as I said before, that is the weapon I would choose now. There should be a fixed sight for use up to and at 150 yards, with one leaf for 200 yards. Between these distances I prefer to take a fuller sight according to the increase in elevation required, instead of putting up the 200 and aiming fine ; beyond 200, up to 230, you will find a good rifle will fully satisfy your expectations with the 200 yards leaf up, and more foresight visible. The sights SECTION ELEVATION here shown are excellent. There is a platinum line down the centre of the back-sight, and the end of the fore- sight towards the breech is counter-sunk, so that it is always a round black object. The height of the back-sight is exaggerated in the sketch, to SECTION enable the pattern to be seen ; the fore-sight is about right, and will require a sight protector, such as I have described later on. It is no use having a fore-sight nearly flush on the rib or lump FOR THE HIMALAYAS. at the muzzle ; it is ranch more difficult to distinguish, and inter- feres with the taking of a full or very full sight when required. Bar-action locks ; springless strikers ; double-grip under-lever, or treble-grip top-snap action ; steel barrels with engine-turned rib ; pistol hand- stock ; eyes for sling near toe of butt and between the fore-end and muzzle ; hammers below line of sight. Do not buy rebounding locks; the strain on the cap on explosion of the powder is enormous, and, unless supported by broad-nosed strikers, it is very likely to jam in the striker-hole in the false breech. Do not have safety bolts on the locks ; they are dangerous. If you give a native a loaded rifle with the safety bolts on, one of two things is likely to happen ; he will release the bolt, fiddling with it, and discharge a shot in dangerous proximity if not actually into you, or you will forget about it and be pulling the trigger until it breaks or your game disappears. I removed the safety bolts from my double "500, having the slots filled with soft solder, and never gave the natives loaded weapons ; it was seldom I was not loaded in time, for a snap-shot even. If you have safety bolts there is always the danger of an accident through having the rifle loaded, leaning against a rock or tree, or even through putting it into the waterproof cover without removing the cartridges. Nothing would induce me to use a rifle that had safety bolts working on its locks ; out they must come before I would venture on a day's shooting. A good solid oak and leather case ; loading implements and re-capping machine ; brass-swivel cleaning rod; screw-driver; spare strikers, and nipple wrench for fitting same; wad cutter and lubricator moulds ; bullet mould and plug ; lock and ran goon oil ; pull-through barrel cleaner in case ; spare fore and back sights that have been fitted and tried ; sling ; box caps and anvils for re-capping, being certain they fit the cartridges that suit the rifle ; bullet wrappers, and plate to guide in cutting same. (See " Loading Eifle Cartridges.") AMMUNITION. This may be divided into different heads, gun and rifle ; but it is most desirable to carry all considered necessary, ready loaded. If you carry the cases and materials, they take up more room, and are more liable to individual damage ; sometimes you may want cartridges in a hurry (having used the loaded stock), be 6 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM delayed, and so too late for the " big head " the men saw on the other side of the range from camp, half an hour before your return, and while a little daylight was left to go after it. To-morrow that head may be miles away, in another part of the range, and you may not be lucky enough to find out his exact whereabouts again. Sometimes, a couple of bears having been met with, a considerable number of cartridges may have been expended, the stock in hand considerably reduced, and, perhaps, a balance of three left, with which no one would care to start after a good head. The first may kill him at once, but, on the contrary, may miss, and, even if it does bag him, you may subsequently see a better one, miss with the two rounds you had left, and have to let him go, having nothing to fall back upon until you have loaded some more — a work of time if properly carried out. Therefore, it is advisable to have plenty of loaded cartridges. Number of Cartridges. — The gun so materially aids the larder, it is worth while to have 400 to 500 cartridges, loaded as follows. (The actual charges must be to suit the gun ; the size of shot only can be recommended here.) 100 cartridges, No. 2 shot. Left barrel for pheasants, &c. 150 „ „ 4 „ Eight barrel for pheasants, left barrel for chikor. 150 „ ,, 6 ,, Eight barrel for chikor, and generally for black partridge, a stray wood- Total 400 cock, &c. If your gun can fire ball, twenty ball cartridges will be handy, as you may meet a bear on your pheasant or chikor ground, with your rifle-carrier some way off, or you may want a second gun when driving small nullahs for bears, &c. The rifle being the weapon for " trophies," be sure you have the right sized and shaped cartridges, and the best. Solid (or drawn) brass are better than any coiled, and when cleansed and reloaded, do well for buck, or any other shooting in the plains against timid animals. Against dangerous game a new cartridge is most essential, as a misfire may cost you or your men dearly. For a six months trip 100 cartridges should suffice ; but if fifty more can be carried conveniently, they will form a second reserve. If you carry a larger number, you are liable to be less careful, and blaze away recklessly, doing little in the way of sport, but wounding or frightening many a head. A good sportsman picks FOR THE HIMALAYAS. his shots carefully and considerately, and abstains from waste of ammunition, and the killing of females or small and worthless heads. Between travelling, bad weather, and other difficulties, out of the 180 days' leave, you can hardly expect more than 120 days on the shooting grounds, looking for game, though the chance of a shot at a head worth having may be twice in a week ; the average, all round, will rarely exceed this. Sportsmen have been six weeks without a shot at anything but an odd bear, and that on ground supposed to be good. Game wanders and moves about so much that, until one has seen it, one cannot say when a shot may be expected. Markhor especially have a wonderful knack of having left just before you reached the ground. How to Carry Ammunition. — Gun cartridges should be packed in soldered tin boxes of one hundred each, and distributed amongst the three or four bullock-trunks (yak-dhans) or leather- covered baskets (kiltas), forming the personal baggage. Divide the numbers of each size shot, so that the proportion is kept up much the same as in the total ; you will then use one box at a time, and keep the rest intact. Thus, for a box of 100, put in 25 of No. 2, 33 of No. 4, and 42 of No. 6. Such boxes as these are small — lOin. by 4Jin. by 4Jin. There will be twenty cartridges in a layer on the bottom, arranged alternately, in rows of five across. There will be room for five of these layers, forming the full case of 100. Any little spaces can be filled in with plugs of paper. If your coolies come to grief, and drop a load into a stream, you will not lose much if the load is not recovered, and nothing if it is fished out, besides distributing the weight fairly amongst the loads. The next best thing to soldering down the lids, and when you want to keep the boxes for further use, is to have the lids to fit well, and, after passing a string round the box when packed, roll it up in wax-cloth twice round, and well overlapping at the ends ; then tie it up securely. This will generally suffice, if placed 8 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM in the middle of the contents of the box it is to be carried in, but it is not so certain as the soldering down. Rifle cartridges can be best packed in small tin cases of ten (10), made a little longer than the loaded cartridge, with a tight-fitting top. They should be rather wider than five cartridges placed side by side, alternately bullet and base, and a little more than two cartridges thick. Roll the cartridges in paper, as Govern- ment cartridges for the Martini-Henry are rolled, but with thicker paper, so that there shall be no movement of a single round. Take an ordinary half sheet of the Times, or any similar paper, cut it in two down the centre from top to bottom. Double the piece so obtained lengthwise, and do it a second or third time, until its width is about that of the length of a cartridge, see Fig. (1). 7 8 Now place one cartridge across on it, about one-third of the length from you ; double up that end (A) over the case and fold it over on B. Lay a cartridge, 2, on A, the opposite way to 1 ; double back A, and on B, close against 2, place cartridge 3 (Fig. 3). Now down with A again as in Fig. 4, place cartridge 4 similarly to 2, up again with A, and place 5 similarly to 3 (Fig. 5). Double A down over 5, and place 6 on top of it (Fig. 6) pointing in the FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 9 same direction as 2 and 4, and, therefore, the opposite way to 5. A should be nearly used up now, so bring B over with it and work back to 1, using up B as shown by dotted line in Fig. 8. A bundle of ten will then be formed, which can be readily slipped into the little box, where any surplus paper may be pressed in also. Put on the lid, tie up securely, wrap up in wax-cloth and secure with string. These cases will leep for a long period, and not suffer from damp. Distribute them amongst the loads as n the case of gun cartridges, and you will probably have plenty of ammunition, even if you should lose a load or have it soaked. USEFUL ARTICLES. Cartridge Pouch. — To carry what one requires in the way of rifle ammunition for immediate use, nothing is better than a leather pouch as under. Six compartments are made by sewing soft calf, or even sheepskin, on to the harder back A, as B, so that six cartridges will each be in a separate place of its own. A doubles down over all to keep off the damp or wet and prevent OE Closed Open loss, being held down by D, a continuation of C, which is sewn to A at 1 and 2, so as to form a loop for the belt to pass through. This loop, C to D, will be about lin. wide ; it will fit over the stud E and keep A down. A duplicate should be carried by the shikarie in a cartridge bag, with the six rounds in it, all ready to exchange for the first when its con- tents have been expended. The cartridge bag will be alluded to further on. 10 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM Cartridge Extractor. — This is rarely required with a properly built rifle and solid brass cartridges, but a "jam " may occur, and it is better to be prepared. The handiest and safest way to carry it is on the flap A of the cartridge pouch described above. Z is a small pocket sewn on to the corner of A. The hook end of the extractor can be put into this. It should be about lin. to If in. long. At X a small strap is sewn, which can button on to the stud on A, obliquely. When D, which fastens down A, is passed over the stud, all are secure. It cannot be forgotten when leaving camp, unless the sportsman forgets belt, pouch, and knife, which is unlikely. If carried loose in a pocket, its absence may not be noticed, and discovered too late. A Small Pocket, above the belt and Hin. to the right of the edge of the jacket, will be handy to carry two or three rounds in, when the weather is dry. It should be a little longer than the Belt cartridge, and smaller at the mouth than at the bottom. A small flap should button over it, to prevent any falling out when stalking. A correspondent, " Sujanpore," recommends having one FOE THE HIMALAYAS. 11 of the above located just by the top button of the coat on the left side, he having found it very useful, especially in a stalk ; but it would not be so convenient when firing standing or kneeling, and an extra pocket would be a little more than I should like. I have found my own most convenient, and never lost a head of game through delay in loading or reloading. In this rough sketch A is the pocket, looking at a man in front. B shows by dotted lines where the cartridge pouch can be con- veniently carried, while C and C' show two places for the hunting knife. C' is the more convenient, as the knife is clear of your thighs in climbing, out of the way when crawling on your stomach, and quite handy should it be required for self-defence. It is just behind the hip, though shown a little too much to the front in the sketch. The Belt is very comfortable if about 2in. wide, with an adjusting runner. The clasp may be an ordinary buckle, or anything the sportsman fancies. On it should be carried only the knife and cartridge pouch. Every bit of weight tells when one has to climb after ibex, markhor, &c., on villanously steep ground. The Hunting Knife is of many kinds, but something of the " Shakespeare " pattern is the best. In the sketch the knife is shown with the full dimensions marked. It is double-edged, and should have a point very sharp, so as to be easily thrust through Knife ~*~-~~ '<* *VN ® 0 ® J 0 © » ... £ Inches ---» I * l™hes~- the throat of an animal. This is the proper thing to do, as it saves the throat from being slashed from ear to ear, as natives do it ; and, if thrust through near the shoulders, will be more certain of reaching the jugular veins, &c. The Sheath should have a brass mount on it, ending in a ball at 12 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM A, and running up to a collar, B, so that it may not be knocked off the sheath and lost. The leather of the underside of the sheath should project about one inch, to admit of its being securely sewn on the frog. In the sketch these three articles are shown side by side in the actual lines they will be in when put together. The Frog is made of two pieces of leather, one, D, being doubled ; straight out it will measure llin. C is a piece l|in. long, sewn on to D at the dotted lines shown on its edges, just sufficient room being left between it and D to allow of the sheath being pressed through. The protruding leather of the sheath will be sewn down on D, as shown by the dotted lines just outside C. This stitchingr and that of C to D, should pass through both thicknesses of Dr and so form the loop for the waist-belt to pass through. As mentioned before, this knife is best carried behind the right hip. The ball at the end of the sheath saves the sportsman from accidents. In India there is a dodge with a spring for holding the knife in the sheath. It is unnecessary if the sheath is a well-fitting leather one, but it may be wished for by some, so here is a sketch. Handle From A to B runs a small steel spring, held down to the sheath by two screws or rivets (CD). At E there is a notch in its lower edge, which fits over a corresponding projection on the hilt of the knife. When the knife is pressed home into the sheath, this spring FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 13 inclines outwards when the hilt reaches B, and closes with a *' click " over the hilt when the knife is home. To draw the knife, the right thumb is inserted under B, raising the spring off the hilt, upon which the fingers withdraw the knife. In the sketch of the hilt, looking along the knife from the top of the handle, the spring E is shown closed on it. Telescopes and Binoculars. — There are many excellent patterns to be bought, but, if comfort is sought, have a pair of light aluminium binoculars, and carry them in a pocket on the outside of the left breast. They are out of the way there, handy, and comfortable. They should weigh little. A telescope is excellent for examining a herd and fixing on the best head, but its field is too small to search a hillside and look for game. It is not so portable and handy when stalking, and was abandoned by the writer as not worth its weight, and the trouble of adjusting and using. Binocular teles- copes are unhandy for the sportsman himself to carry, and one person is quite enough to stalk wary game, without an assistant following at his heels. In stalking, it may be said, one person makes a " noise," two make a " bobberie," three make a "tumasha," and four — well, they generally frighten the game away before they commence the stalk at all ! Adjust the glasses very carefully on arrival at high altitudes, say 8000ft., making quite sure they are right for your vision at about quarter of a mile ; then make a good mark on the inner tube, so that you can always adjust before putting them into your pocket of a morning. You will find much valuable time saved ; I never carried them closed, once I learnt what time meant. The Cartridge Bag is useful at all times, either to carry gun- cartridges when after birds, or the various items enumerated below when out with the rifle. It should be carried by the shikarie, and contain cleaning apparatus, spare pouch, reserve box of ammuni- tion (ten rounds), skinning knives, measuring tape, small tin for luncheon, flask, pipe, and tobacco. A well-made bag of the size for 100 gun-cartridges will carry all these. The Cleaning Apparatus may be carried in a very small leather pouch, such as one generally buys a brush and string in for spong- ing a gun out. In it should be a strong whipcord, about 1ft. longer than the barrel, with a loop at one end and a long lead plummet at the other. The plummet must be considerably smaller in diameter than the bore, so as to slide through easily. After 14 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM firing, put an oiled rag (which should also be in the pouch) into the loop, and pull it through the barrel two or three times ; the rifle will then be clean, and capable of shooting its best again. Do this while the barrel is still warm if possible, as the fouling is then moist and soft. On your return home, after a long day, it is a great comfort to know your rifle has been cleaned, and only requires a rag through it once more before laying by for the night. It is sometimes the custom to get the shikarie to clean it with a rod and rags after the day. He is probably as tired as you, does it carelessly, and perhaps strains the action. With a strong cord and a rag that does not fit too tight, the rifle can be well and carefully cleaned on the spot. Care must be taken to use a small rag at first, and add strips until it fits the bore properly. For choice, drop the plummet in at the breech and pull out from the muzzle. A Reserve Sox of Ammunition should be one of your tin boxes, with its ten rounds in it intact. The spare pouch has been already described. Skinning Knives. — Of these there should be two to save time. If you have only one, either you or the shikarie may be idle, or using your hunting knife for a work it never was intended to per- form : bones and hard muscles are very blunting, and it is difficult to restore the razor-like edge this knife should have to be perfect. A skinning-knife, on the other hand, is better with a " wire edge " — rough like a fine saw, in fact. This is easily restored on a piece of whetstone, or any hard stone from a brook or rock. The small butcher's knife in a sheath, such as merchant seamen carry, is very suitable for this purpose. The shape of the blade is good for its work — skinning and cutting up. About lOin. total length over handle and blade will do well. These knives may be used for many odd jobs besides skinning, such as making pegs to stretch skins, cutting small wood, &c. The heavy black line on the edge shows where it should be sharpened. In skinning, the portion of the blade included by the dotted line from A should be chiefly used, drawing the hand down and back, as shown by the arrows. FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 15 A Measuring Tape should be 6ft. long ; those nickel self-winding ones are the best and handiest. They take up little room. The Luncheon Tin should be about 7in. or Sin. long, 4in. wide, and 2in. deep. Any small box will do, but this size will carry a good deal of bread and cheese, or sandwiches, if the sportsman has a cook who can make bread. A Flask of Britannia metal does not excite the cupidity of a native as much as one of silver or electro-plate, so is more suitable. Pipe and Tobacco may be just what you like, but a tin cover on the pipe is useful, as the wind soon blows fine, mild tobacco about. Axe. — In addition to the cartridge bag and its contents, the shikarie should be given a small American-pattern axe to carry ; it is most useful. It should be of steel, weighing J to lib. in the head, 12 Inches helved with a short handle of beech, 12in. long. With this little tool one can break up large game, get the neck severed from the body, break up the latter, clear the joints at the knees and hocks ; Section on A B Space or Loop for Belt Lace and it is always handy to cut sticks (should you lose your alpen- stock you can soon get another from the trees below), to clear a path, or cut steps on steep slippery snow and ice, split up pegs for 16 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM tents or skins, and a hundred other purposes. It should be carried in a frog, and held in with a couple of turns of a slip of leather (a porpoise hide boot lace does well), and secured to the shikarie by a belt round his waist. The frog is made as in sketch. An oval hole is cut in the leather about 2in. from one end, sufficiently large to allow the axe handle to slide in. The other end then goes round over the belt, comes back to the hole, behind it, and is sewn to the front leather, as shown in the sketch by the dotted lines on either side of A. The lace can be passed over the head, then down and round the stud, and fastened with a couple of half hitches on itself. Another plan is to have a small strap sewn on the loop, as C, which passes over the head and buttons tight on the stud, as shown by the dotted lines. A Brass Cleaning Hod, with revolving swivel on it, should be kept in camp, to give the rifle a good sponging out once a week. A Sight Protector should always be on the foresight of a rifle, until one is actually in the presence of game. Often and often men have had their sights knocked out of trim by their shikaries' careless- ness, and not noticed it till they have missed an easy shot. These little protectors can be made by any tinsmith out of brass, as tin solder will suffice, and brazing is not essential. The patterns of those suitable for single and double rifles are annexed. It may be stated in passing, that on no account should they cover the bore of the rifle ; they might be blown off in a hurry, or cause the barrel to burst. FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 17 They are simply brass tubes, fitting tight on to the barrel, with an extension passing over the sight. The rifle may be fired with one on, but proper aim cannot he taken ; it should only be left on when snap shooting, or when the shikarie has forgotten all about it when handing you the rifle, and time does not admit of its removal. Gun-covers are very useful out shooting, as you are often driven home by wet weather coining on suddenly, and the labour of cleaning in a damp tent is no joke. There are different patterns, but the most useful are those that will take in the weapon full length. In Kashmir and elsewhere they are made of leather, which is all very well, but heavy rain soon soaks it, and covers the weapon with a mass of rust. It is better to have a waterproof cover inside the leather one, and the writer had a third cover of cotton inside the waterproof. This kept all dust and dirt out of the barrels, and, though exposed to incessant rain on many a day, feet, Inside none of the weapons suffered in the least. Waterproof covers ai rather expensive, but anyone can have cheap and efficient ones made of the waterproof sheeting, 5ft. wide, which can be bought by the yard. The great thing to pay attention to is, that the seam is under the barrels and stock. A gun being generally carried with the guard downwards, whether on the shoulder, under the arm, or a,t the " trail," the rain will fall on the top, where, of course, there should be no seam. Keep the outer leather covers well greased, To cut out a cover, proceed as follows : Buy of the waterproof about the length of your longest weapon, say 4|ft. Double the c 18 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM edge of the sheeting over, so that the waterproofing is outside, and the insides touching. Lay the gun on the double, as shown in the sketch, and mark with a pencil where it is to be cut, as shown by the dotted line A B. Mind you leave enough room for the hammers and trigger-guard, or. there will be a difficulty in getting the cover on and off. The seam should be sewn with a narrow strip of the waterproof as "binding;" a strong needle and well- waxed pack thread will work this material easily. Out of one piece of the 5ft. cloth one can cut three gun-covers, and have a bit over for putting round anything else that requires to be kept dry, such as papers, &c. The Sight-protectors mentioned on page 16 are very much wanted on the barrels when in the gun-cases, as rough jolting during a march often causes a foresight to be seriously injured or displaced. Slings. — Some people advocate, some decry, these things; but they are very useful when on bad ground, for both you and your shikarie want all your hands and feet, and want a third hand even ! They are very convenient if hooking by small swivels to barrels and stock, and the following is a good way to make use of them : Pass the right arm between the sling and rifle, sling towards the front and muzzle upwards ; then let it down till the sling rests on the right shoulder. The right hand can steady it if riding, and when climbing, it will be found out of the way. Carrying a rifle hung on the back is most fatiguing; it contracts the chest, and causes all sorts of discomfort, if it does not form a source of disease. A horn button should be sewn on the edge of the shoulder, as shown at A in the sketch, to prevent the sling slipping over. T. S. K. recommends this in the Field, March 20, 1886, and also the following method of slinging, which is not quite the same as mine, being shorter in the sling. He says : " The eye on the butt ought to be close to (an inch from) the toe, that on the barrel hardly an inch from the fore-end. They look ugly, but the difference in comfort is great. The adjoining outlines, one of which may be compared with that of K. C. A. J., will show what I mean. The sling may be broad where it goes over the shoulder, and secured by a round thong at each end to the eyes ; at the butt the sling should have buttonholes, and the thong a cross-piece, or button, of wood or horn, to button into the holes for adjustment. There is nothing in this to clink, and the rifle FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 19 can be fired with the sling on. The way proposed by K. C. A. J. has the same fault as the Austrian sling — that it carries the rifle too low down below the hip, where it bangs about, and prevents easy climbing. A large horn button sewn on the shoulder is a good plan to prevent the sling from slipping down when carried on one shoulder and not round the neck. For difficult ground, frozen slopes, and where a stick must be used, the rifle must be carried on the back, high up. It can be easier carried by having a piece of bent wood to fit the shoulder, attached by thongs at each end to the rifle, just as the Swiss carry their heavy loads ; but this is scarcely worth while for a rifle weighing only lOlb. or lllb." The foregoing is very sound and practical, but it has a dis- advantage on the Himalayas. One is often scrambling up hill a great deal, amongst birch and other trees, against the low hanging branches of which the muzzle is continually striking ; even the c 2 20 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM rifle I drew often came in contact with timber in the way I have described. Across no ground can a sling over the chest be com- fortable; but I append another pattern, as it may be useful to anyone who does not mind pressure on the chest. The weight is better distributed than in the ordinary way, and the height of the rifle may be increased or reduced as wished, by drawing the strap (B) up or down through the flat hole (A) in the butt. This strap is sewn on the back of (D), while a leather loop (C) is sewn on the sling, which in its turn is sewn to (D). The rifle barrels pass through (C), and if a small strap or waist-belt be worn over (D), the butt is kept quite close to the side. I discarded this sling, after a very long trial, as the weight on the chest was too oppressive for me, but the friend who gave me a pattern had long used it with a light rifle, and considered it per- fection. The single '450 I used had no eyes for a sling, so I simply whipped one end of a strong leather strap to the barrel in front of the fore-end, and the other to the small of the butt ; many a long mile I rode and clambered with that simple sling. Oil, &c. — It may seem unnecessary, but it is just as well to mention that what is called " Rangoon oil " is the best for the barrels. Vaseline is the same oil further purified, and is equally good. For the locks and action use nothing but " watchmakers' FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 21 oil." This can be bought in small bottles, and a little goes a long way. The beauty of this oil is that it never freezes or clogs. It is what is used for watches and chronometers. The seanis round the locks, false breech, and fore-end, should be well filled with bees- wax, to keep out moisture. To dress the stock nothing beats bear's grease (with some elbow ditto added!). It can be readily melted down on the camp fire, but it is better to do it gently in a pot by itself than to refine it by boiling down in water. The intestines of a bear in good condition are a mass of fine white fat. That on the outside of the body is more impure, owing to blood, &c. Loading cartridges for the gun. — As everyone does not possess an Erskine machine, the following method is described, being rapid and soon picked up. For it you require a bowl or small box that will hold two or three pounds of powder, a powder and shot 6 Inches measure, a small hand, rammer (of wood), and a tin funnel. The latter should be about the size marked on the sketch — 4dn. wide at top, about Sin. deep, lin. wide where tube begins, and the tube tapering, so as to fit just comfortably into a cartridge. The " rammer " is a very simple little piece of wood, just fitting loosely into a cartridge, with a comfortable handle at top. To commence work, empty two or three pounds of powder into the bowl or box ; take one of the brown cardboard cases with one hundred cartridges in it, and cut the broad, flat card off the side the mouths of the cases are towards. Lay the now open frame-full on the table in front of you, place the bowl of powder close to its right edge ; take the funnel in your left hand and the powder measure in your right, place the funnel in the right top cartridge and pour in a measure of powder, having scooped it up with your right. Shift the funnel to the next case to the left and pour in its measure, and so on to 22 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM the end of the row. Then work back from left to right on the next row, and, on completing that one, work again from right to left, and so on, until every case has a charge of powder in it. You will find it will take a very short time ; keep hold of the funnel and measure all the time. Lay down funnel and measure and take up a handful of wads in left hand ; with the finger and thumb of right hand, place one in the mouth of each case, working alternately as in putting in the powder. Take the rammer in right hand and rani down all the wads, being careful that they start fair and square, Just look over the lot to see you have missed none and then proceed with the shot in the same way as the powder. You cannot load a case with a double charge of either powder or shot, for it will not hold it. Put in the wads over shot, pressing them down if necessary with the rammer. Take them out one by one, and turn down in the usual manner, replacing them in box, or dropping them into a bag, as you think best. To load ball cartridges for the gun. — Mind the bullet- mould is a size smaller than the bore of your gun, i.e., a 13 mould for a 12-bore gun. Be careful to cast the bullets of softish lead, such as I recommend for the Express, and, after cutting off the core or neck, carefully tap down the slight protrusion with the side of the mould, so that the bullet is uniformly spherical. Have some thin cotton rags cut into squares of 2in. a side, and well greased by insertion in the melting lubricant — wax and mutton fat mixed in the proportions of four to one. Wrap up each bullet in a patch, screwing the corners and surplus material into a tail, which cut off close to the bullet. Load the cases with your favourite charge of powder, 3 to 4drs., put a thin card and then a thick felt wad in, and then the bullet, being careful that the opening of the patch is down on the wad, if possible ; it should be, if the lubricant has attached it firmly to the bullet, but if inclined to stick to the sides of the case and allow the bullet to go down alone, it is better to have the opening upwards. Crimp the case just above the bullet by passing a strong cord once round, one end of which has been FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 23 firmly fixed and the other held in the left hand ;'by moving the case backwards and forwards along the cord, keeping it from revolving, the choke above the bullet will be all that can be desired. The cord must pass once around the case, remember, and be slightly greased. Never put a wad over the bullet, nor turn down the edge of the case. Both are dangerous. To load rifle cartridges is a more troublesome matter, as there are a good many things to be prepared before filling the cases. Bullets should be cast of softish lead. Old Snider bullets are excellent, especially for the Express. Perhaps some rifle or ammunition makers will question this, but experience proves that this lead is more dangerous than anything harder. Hard bullets are too brittle, and fly into minute fragments. Those of Snider lead break up a good deal, but you will almost invariably find the base of the bullet intact, though opened out from the size of a sixpence to a shilling perhaps. Hence the shock is not so wasted in small and light fragments. The weight is not excessive, so that is no objection. I cannot recommend copper tubes in bullets ; I tried them and found they rather prevented their expansion. When there is an open hollow left, there must be a body of air much compressed as soon as the bullet attains its maximum velocity, and this condensed air acts as a powerful disintegrator on impact with the carcase of an animal. Only once did a bullet burst prematurely, so to speak, and then it happened by hitting a bear in the elbow joint. I aimed behind the shoulder, but she was grubbing for roots, and drew her fore leg back as I fired, so received the bullet on a hard mass of bones and muscles. I do not believe any bullet smaller than Sir Samuel Baker's " Baby," could effect much damage after meeting with such an obstacle outside the carcase. Splinters of my little bullet penetrated the side, and I bagged the bear with a gun bullet after a short but exciting race. In any case, the tube adds weight to a bullet already heavy enough. Paper bullet wrappers can be cut out of the tough paper called "Bank Note." None of the ordinary papers will do. They should be just long enough to go twice round the bullet, and to enable them to be rolled on well the ends are cut obliquely. As they are twice the circumference, they will be just six times the diameter of the bullet. Thus, for a '500 Express, the edge AB 24 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM will be Sin. long, the width, CD, about IJin., to allow of plenty of stuff to twist up after wrapping round bullet. A pattern should ^_ 3 Inches ."., be cut from a piece of cardboard or tin, by which eight papers may be cut at once by doubling the material beforehand. Now, to wrap a bullet well is not so easy as it looks. Take a paper, damp it slightly by pressing on a piece of damp blotting paper, or on the tongue, and place it on the bullet as under, being careful that the edge not only covers all the cylinder portion of the A bullet, but also a little of the conical head. Keep the right fore- finger on the point of the paper (A), and roll the bullet round with the fingers and thumbs. The edge B must come up quite even FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 25 with the edge A (if not, the paper was started a little crooked). Then roll on until the paper comes to an end, being careful that all the edge A B is even. You will then have it as 3. Change the bullet now the other way, into the left finger and thumb, and twist up the paper that is surplus at base of bullet (4). Lay it by and continue with the next. When all are wrapped, cut off most of the screw of paper with a pair of small scissors (5). Get your servant to dip each bullet now into a pot of melting wax and mutton fat, about four parts wax and one part fat. They should be covered with this mixture about as far as the dotted line in Fig. 5, but do not require dipping more than once ; it makes the paper keep firm on the bullet when loading, and subsequently prevents moisture passing towards the powder ; it also keeps the bullet firm in the cartridge, and dispenses with " choking " the case around it. When you have dipped all your bullets, pour the wax mixture into a flat plate to make lubricators of. It should be about one-eighth or one-sixth of an inch thick when cool, according as the cases have little or much room to spare over the powder, the great thing with rifle cartridges being to have about half the cylindrical portion of the bullet in the case, so that the nose and front half rest in the rifling, and get driven in tight at once by the shock of discharge. If the bullet is mostly imbedded in the case, it will be expanded first in the chamber, and, as it moves, will suddenly receive a great check from the rifling ; the recoil or strain on the rifle is greater, and the shooting not so reliable. It will be gathered from the above, that bullets should not fit the bore tight until fired. The best fitting are those you can drop in at the muzzle, and slide down by their own weight to the breech. The shock of discharge will expand them, and make them fit tight. The bare bullet, without the paper wrapper, is here alluded to ; the wrapper does not make it fit, it prevents leading, though it does make it fit a little tighter. To cut the lubricators out of the sheet of wax stuff, a small wad-cutter is required. It can be made out of an old case that has. had the base cut off, and mouth choked to the original size of a new one. It will want a collar (A A) soldered on, so as to allow the handle (BB) to be attached. With this little tool any number of wax lubricators can be cut, as the string of them will come out at the top, between the fingers at C. They will be solid wads of course, and to make the bullet fit well, with the paper screw in the 26 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM base, a small round hole requires to be cut out of them. The tool for this can be made out of a piece of tin or brass, for it is only a spiral cutter. The plan of it is seen by looking in the direction of the arrow. It is used when the lubricator has been placed in the case, and requires to be pressed into the centre of it, and give half a twist or turn with the finger and thumb of the right hand, and withdrawn, when a neat round hole through the lubricator will be found. The jute wad which is over the powder will stop FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 27 the cutter and enable the small piece of wax to be withdrawn inside it. Gunpowder. — For gun cartridges, Curtis and Harvey's No. 4 grain ; for rifle ditto, the same makers' No. 6 grain, " extra large size for rifles." Cases, powder, and jute wads must be bought ; for the latter may be substituted those cut with a punch out of cardboard, but they are not so tough or impervious to the wax. Loading. — To measure the powder the greatest care is necessary, for the accuracy of the rifle depends greatly on the charges being uniform. Weighing the charge is too slow a process, when a hundred cases have to be loaded ; but the following method is slow also, so the loader must please himself. Too much care cannot be taken ; it is time well spent. Pour the powder into a bowl, scoop the measure three times through it, to fill it properly. Then take a piece of smooth wood (say a pencil), and sweep the surplus off, leaving the measure quite full and even with the brim. Pour the powder into the case gradually, tapping the latter gently on its base edge as the powder flows in ; this will get the excess charge into a comparatively small space. Place a jute wad over the powder, and press it down gently with a rammer. Next press down the wax wad (lubricator) ; cut out the centre with the spiral cutter, place the bullet in the case, and press it in. Then take up the cartridge in right hand, with its base against the palm, rest the bullet on some soft but unyielding surface, such as the cloth on the table, and press gently down on it, so as to insure its being well home on the wax and powder. The loading is finished, and the cartridge will be found all that can be wished. Recapping Cartridge- Cases. — With reference to this subject, it is probable that many readers would like complete details or plans, and I believe what I describe below cannot be beaten with any other machine. I have reloaded many hundreds of gun and rifle cases, and can honestly say I have been well repaid for my trouble. I used machines of one pattern for 12 and 16 bore guns, and •450 and *500 bore rifles ; they were all identical, except in their dimensions. On a small base A A rest two cores B B' of such diameter that they fit pretty closely inside an empty cartridge. Both are hollow on the top, but inside the hollow of one, B', pro- jects a sharp steel pin C. A lever D is hinged on an upright THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM E between the cores, and carries a brass knob F, one side hollow, to fit over the steel pin, and the other flat, to fit down into the hollow of the other core. To extract a cap, the cartridge is put on B', and just turned, to insure the pin penetrating the hole in the saucer that carries the cap ; it then rests against the anvil. The lever D has a handle at the end (cut off in my sketch), by bearing down on which the cap is extracted . Throw cap and anvil into some small box on the table, and continue the operation with the cases you wish to finish. Then extract the anvils from the caps, wash them in a solution of vinegar and water, to remove all verdigris and fouling, letting them steep twenty-four hours if possible. Pour off the solution, rinse them two or three times in clean water, and dry well in an oven or in the sun. They will be quite bright and fresh. The brass rifle cartridges must be thoroughly cleansed before being recapped; I always had them boiled to remove all fouling, and then wiped out with a small rag and cleaning-rod by iny servant. They were finally dried in the sun. To recap, just place a case on B, put an anvil in a cap and then both into the saucer, and press home with the flat end of F, FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 29 by carrying the lever over to that side. Continue the operation with all the cases you have uncapped, and I am sure you will find the job much easier than uncapping and recapping each cartridge before passing on to the next. I generally uncapped cartridges one day, left the anvils to soak all night, dried them, and recapped next day ; but I have kept cases from which the caps have been extracted till next season, then recapped them, and found them perfectly satisfactory. There is a hole at the bottom of B, to allow the gas to escape, should the cap explode, and another at the bottom of B', in which rests a spare steel pin, to replace a breakage. It screws in and out with a pair of flat-nosed pliers. These machines may be obtained for all the bores I have mentioned, for I have possessed and used them myself. They were made by James Dixon and Son, Sheffield. I used Eley's caps for both theirs and Kynoch's gun cartridges ; but for Eley's express rifle cases, the larger-sized rifle-case cap must be bought. I nearly lost my eye, having all my hair and eyebrows singed, by using gun-cartridge caps for '450 cases, besides missing a fine black bear, who luckily hooked it ! DRESS. Every one will have his own ideas of the number of each article he will require, but a good general list will be attached ; it is not very bulky, and will be included in the complete list of kit hereafter. For a headdress, a grey felt helmet, double-topped, will do for travelling and shooting. It is light, a good colour, and lasts a long time. Wear a grey puggarie on it, so that, when making a stalk, you may remove the somewhat "tall hat" and wrap the puggarie round your head. It shows less, and from its form and colour, very much resembles the rocks around. When in very cold regions, a puggarie alone, 9yds. long, of Khaki cotton stuff, wrapped well over the temples and back of neck, is the most comfortable. Flannel Shirts should be worn day and night, supplemented by a Shetland wool vest when in very cold regions. A broad flannel belt around the waist will save one from many attacks of the stomach, owing to cold weather, chills after great exertion, &c. Drawers need only be worn by day by those who use them 30 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM during their ordinary avocations ; but at night, in cold regions, a good pair of Shetland wool will enable one to sleep sound, and not suffer from either cold or a little damp. Woollen socks, strongly made, are the best for the feet. Have a clean pair, along with a pair of woollen drawers, in the head of your camp bed, and put them on when getting into bed at night. Your feet will be warm and dry, and when rising in the morning the change to your trousers and other socks will not chill you much. A woollen Norfolk jacket, turn-down collar, and two plaits in the waist to enable the belt to be worn comfortably, is the most suit- able coat. Let it be made amply loose in the shoulders, arms, and skirts, with five buttons down the front and three pockets — first, the small cartridge pocket alluded to before ; secondly, one inside the left breast, for handkerchief, &c. ; third, one outside the left breast, with a good flap over it, for binoculars. At the neck, a hook and eye will keep the collar more comfortable than the button alone. For trousers, have a pair of breeches made, but without buttons on the leg, and made as loose as knickerbockers in the seat and at the knees. They should fit pretty close to the calf, and extend down to the ankle, so as to be tucked into the socks. Leggings are required, both to help keep the legs warm and keep snow and rubbish out of socks and shoes. Beyond doubt, the Indian putties, or cloth bandages, are the best things out. They afford great support to the muscles and veins, prevent the legs becoming too big (and, therefore, heavy), keep them warm, sup- port the leg of the breeches in a comfortable position, and save the legs from the blows of falling stones or timber when clambering up a steep hillside. An outer sock, over the woollen and inside the shoe, is a great means of saving wear and tear. Woollen ones worn alone inside grass shoes soon show holes at the heel and ball of foot, but an outer sock of either leather or canvas will materially assist to pre- vent this. The easiest way to have these made is to rip up an old ammunition boot that fitted well ; the three pieces forming it — namely, sole, front, and back — will be good patterns to cut out by. The material may be old buck, cheetal, or other skins, with hair outwards, and three or four holes on each side over the ankle to lace them by. If they are to be worn with the grass shoe that has a string between the big and second toe, they should be divided FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 31 and stitched around the division. Canvas lined with flannel may be used, but it is too coarse in the joints, and does not pay for the time and trouble. If these leathers get hard from wet, soak them in clean grease ; the moisture on the hillsides will soon clean it off your socks if any penetrates through, for, of course, it should be applied by dipping them on the hand into the grease, and not by pouring it into them ! For the feet, the covering varies with the country and nature of the ground. Marching on good roads or paths, shooting boots are the thing, but on precipices, after ibex, thar, or markhor, some- thing more tenacious is required. The natives make up grass shoes, as they are called, out of various substances — straw (particularly that of rice), the bark of a kind of tall willow, and hempen cords. Those of bark are excellent, lasting much longer than those of straw, but they are inferior to those of hemp, made by the Afridis beyond the Indus chiefly. In Ladak shoes wear out very quickly; one pair of strong shooting boots lasted a hard-working sportsman only a fortnight ! The great thing to look to is, that your men get you plenty of shoes before you reach your ground, or on the way to it; for they have a knack of having none for themselves or you, when you have been a few days in a place and wish to move on or visit some distant point for a week's trip. Of common grass shoes there should be at least thirty pairs in hand, for a pair will only last one day. Of the better materials, fewer pairs will suffice, but no one can have too many pairs. The writer generally had thirty pairs (either ready-made or the material for them), and never found there were too many ; it was always a case of sending for more straw-rope when a man went down to the valleys below. THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM A BalaMava cap under the puggarie enables one to have some- thing to pull down over one's ears when a cold wind is blowing through one, with ice and snow around. It can be kept rolled up, as Fig. 1, under the puggarie in ordinary wear, and let down, as in Fig. 2, when one's ears are perished with the cold. Of course it is a most excellent nightcap. They are best knitted of grey Shetland wool. A Cardigan jacket is most useful, and should be worn at all altitudes above 9000ft. for the sake of warmth when sitting still. A chamois leather vest, covered with flannel and pierced with holes to assist the evaporation of perspiration, is much wanted at the higher altitudes amongst snow and ice, where the wind is piercing. The seam down the chest should be sewn up, and those over and under the right arm opened and arranged with buttons. It may seem a little more troublesome ; but, once it is on, it protects the lungs more than the other plan. Warm woollen gloves may be carried with advantage, as one's hands are often too cold to hold a rifle, until circulation has been restored by slapping the arms like a cabman. This, of course, must be done quietly, in a secluded spot, before commencing a stalk. An ulster is wanted in camp and sleeping out under the stars. It should reach to the heels, have a hood and belt, and small wrist straps, so as to draw the sleeves tight when required. A waterproof coat you want for yourself. A fairly light and long one is best. Anything stiff and heavy is unbearable. It should be carried by your shikarie, strapped on the back of the cartridge-bag. The colour of the outer garments depends on the ground you intend to visit. For ibex, markhor, thar, and, in fact, all game that live at high elevations, a kind of French grey, the colour of the granite rocks, is good. The natural tint of " push," the under FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 33 fur of hill game, is the thing to copy. It is much the same as the under fur of a rabbit, but not so dark, more of a grey. In jungle and forests, something darker and more of a green (or Khaki) colour is suitable. Shetland wool is just a little too light for the grey ; but the writer once had a herd of ibex, filing past at twenty yards distant only, who never noticed his head with the Balaklava cap on, until one female winded him after going by. Even then she was the only one that saw him, for they all looked the other way into the gorge below. Coloured spectacles or goggles should be worn on snow. The effect of the glare on the eyes is very severe ; the natives suffering from snow-blindness are useless for two or three days perhaps, so it is as well to have a pair for each of your servants. They are cheap, and will be appreciated. An Alpenstock is hardly part of dress, but one is not properly turned out without a stick of some kind in one's hand. They can be readily obtained in the hills, the best being from a kind of hard wood called " Bus " in Kashmir. It looks like a " Sally," as they call it in Ireland, but the wood is very hard, like a rose tree, and takes a fine polish. On no account should they be iron tipped. In the first place they hold better if cut at the point of the shape annexed, and make much less noise. When worn, they can be re- sharpened with the small axe or skinning knife. They should not be too long, or they will be heavy and unwieldy ; about 5^ft. should suit a man of 6ft. or over, rather shorter for anyone less. The tip may be charred a little in the fire, to harden it. This pattern has been shown to the writer by probably the best native mountaineers there are in the world, who can go almost anywhere. LIST OF CLOTHES. 2 Norfolk jackets. 6 pairs outer socks (leather). 2 pair woollen trousers. 4 flannel shirts. 2 flannel belts. 2 pairs woollen drawers. 2 Shetland woollen vests. 6 pairs woollen socks. 2 „ putties or leggings. 2 „ shooting boots. 1 puggerie. 1 grey helmet. 1 Balaklava cap. 1 Cardigan jacket. 1 chamois leather vest. 2 pair warm gloves. 1 ulster (with hood). 1 waterproof coat. THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM CAMP EQUIPMENT. This will embrace a large number of articles, but the chief are tents. Tents. — From the last Kabul campaigns, it was pretty well learnt that a very small tent would suffice, even in an intensely hot climate, provided it had a double fly (or roof) ; and that it was equally suitable in a cold one. These were christened "Kabul Tents," and are, par excellence, the sportsman's friend, combining the advantages of being light, strong, comfortable, and easily pitched, even on bad ground. The outer cloths of each fly are " drill," the inner ordinary cotton cloth (generally " dosutie " or " two thread," from the web and woof being woven with two threads side by side). The handiest size is 8ft. by 8ft. inside, with 3ft. walls ; from inside ridge to floor, 7ft. The tent-pegs are iron, 8 feet but it is nearly always possible to use wooden ones, except in Ladak. Everything complete, tent, poles, and pegs, weigh 801b. A second tent is required for the servants (and one's own use when making a trip from camp over the hills, to shoot on ground to which you cannot well move everything). It should have but one fly, but with the outer cloth " drill," and the two inner ones plain cotton. A convenient size is 6ft. along the ridge, 5ft. high, and 8ft. wide on the ground line. One end should have the usual pieces, opening and forming doors, while the other should be prolonged along the ground line, and rounded up to the ridge as in sketch. A small curtain is sewn all around the edges to allow of stones, FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 35 sods, or pieces of timber being laid to keep all wind out. The weight, with poles and wooden pegs, should not exceed 301b. to 351b. These tents may with advantage be stained Khaki-colour ; often game leave a valley, having seen a conspicuous white object at the bottom or end of it, perhaps some miles away. One of Khaki-colour is much more easily concealed, as the shade is similar to the background. These two tents are sufficient ; a third can always be rigged up with a large waterproof sheet, that will be hereafter alluded to. A camp bedstead is essential, to keep one off the moist earth ; but when after game and hot in its pursuit, one often dispenses with it and lies on " bracken," or any other material with which a couch can be made. It should be well finished, with four good stout legs, and strong stiff material for the sides and ends. Tbe dimensions should be 6ft. long, 2|ft. wide, and 1ft. 8in. high. This is the frame (A). The canvas bottom is usually laced all along the ends and one side, but this is an endless source of delay m Long sides •i? 6re tL — /N 3 1j FRAME OF *£ CAMP BEDSTEADX r I Corner enlarged and inconvenience, as the cord gets worn with incessant hauling backwards and forwards through the holes, and then, if knotted, has to be cut or opened whenever the bed is taken to pieces. The annexed plan will be found to answer very fairly, and can be im- proved upon by having buckles underneath instead of permanent stitching (B 1, 1, 1). This is really a tube of canvas the width of the bed ; the canvas should cross the bed and be joined by its edges and the ends underneath, where they meet in the centre, may be sewn or strapped with half-a-dozen straps and buckles, as alluded to above. Stitching will answer, however, as the canvas D 2 36 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM cannot stretch much, and the other straps at head and foot take in all slack, over the cross pieces. No small tube is required for the long side poles to fit into ; they will fit comfortably at each side of the tube, as in (B 2). It will be noticed in the sketch that the side poles are placed in the upper holes in the legs, and the cross ones in the lower ; this should be insisted on for natives, as a rule, do just the opposite, and the luckless sportsman has his head and heels in the air, with his body in a bow between them, instead of lying flat and level. A mistake cannot be made if the long poles are invariably placed in the upper holes in the legs, and the cross pieces in the lower (see sketch C). One often sits on the end of The Wrong Way The Right W3y. the bed, too, and this soon mates a great hollow, which is uncom- fortable. By the plan recommended it occurs in a much less degree ; besides which one is more off the ground, and small boxes or bundles may be kept under the bed, out of the way. The legs should be made with good big flat feet, as one often is en- camped on soft and marshy soil. As a rule, they are made sharp at the bottom — the very place they should be blunt and flat. The sides and ends should be made from light, stiff wood ; bamboo is too springy. When taken to pieces, the bed is easily packed. The long poles remain inside the canvas, the legs and ends being placed close to one of them, and then the whole rolled up. Secure with a couple of straps, or small pieces of rope, near each end. This bed- stead and the six bamboos belonging to the two tents form one loa 1 of about 501b. Bedding should be all woollen, except one resai (or cotton padded quilt). There should be a couple of double blankets and the " resai;" the whole rolled up in a Wolseley's waterproof valise. The pillow of this valise will carry some of the clothes, such as a pair of woollen drawers and socks (to sleep in) a clean shirt, a pocket-handkerchief, pair of slippers or shoes, cardigan jacket, towel and washing kit, brushes, needles, and thread. It straps up well, and is most useful when camping out. At the Stores its price is 1Z. 2s. 6d., but it may be made from good sail canvas for about 10s., and will answer well. FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 37 A large waterproof sheet is very useful, though somewhat heavy. It should be of " twill," about 9ft. by 8ft., with brass eyelets every 2ft. or so around the edges, and at the corners. The first use for it is to roll up your bedding and valise in, to insure their being quite dry in any -veather on the march ; the second is to double it up and lay it under your valise when sleeping on the ground ; the third is to pull some of it over you when sleeping out and rain comes on ; the fourth is to prop it up on sticks, and form a good tent for your men, when you are in the small shuldarie, and it is pouring with rain ; you may be sure your men will thoroughlv appreciate your care of them. (Poor fellows ! how of tea have they lain down without a murmur round a wretched camp fire, with the rain falling in torrents, and btriven to rest till the morning, when the sahib would be off again. Their solitary blanket is but a poor assistance to their ragged clothes, and any shelter over their heads is acceptable. They do not mind or notice draughts much, but cold rain and sleet make them miserable.) It may be used as a bath, if you prefer not having a canvas one ; and if you Lave a skin you value stretched out drying when rain comes on, lay the sheet over it, propping it up in the centre with a stone, and it will not suffer. In fact, the waterproof sheet is always handy and useful. Bath, basin, and bucket can be well made out of sail-canvas. It is sold by the yard, 2ft. wide, and anyone can have these articles made with it, at a very small cost. In making them, the great thing is to have all the seams double, just as they are in the sails of a ship. When new they will leak ; but steep them for a couple of days, and you will have nothing to complain of. Having pur- chased 9yds. of this sail canvas, proceed as follows : Double lyd. of it back on the rest, and cut out a double oval for the bottom of your bath ; this will be three feet one way and 2ft. the other (A) . Then measure enough canvas to go round its outer edge (about 7Jft.), and allow 3in. extra for the seam. Join the two ends by a double seam (B). There is a line of blue along the centre of the canvas ; lay a hoop of rope, the length of the large ring of canvas, around on this line, and double the canvas over it ; you will then have (C) half the width of (B) but twice as thick ; sew the canvas down on the rope as shown by the dotted lines on (C). This will be the side of your bath, 1ft. high. Sew in the bottom all round the edge (1, 1, in C) with a double seam, the same as the ends of the side were joined. You will then have (D). Sew on four or 38 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM five loops (2, 2, 2, D), to enable pegs to be put through to keep up the sid-es of the bath, if they are inclined to collapse. All the sewing must be done with a strong needle and spunyarn, or double pack-thread ; no awl can be used, as it will cut the canvas, making *:.'.7..*.O 7 v_ ^ $ //7g in Centre /as line mi of Can vi so many leaks, for the canvas can hardly expand euough to fill them, though it will close tight around the needle holes. The basin and bucket maybe similarly made; single canvas will be sufficient for the former, double for the latter. The bath would take 6ft. by 8ft. canvas 14 The basin would take l^ft. by 3ft 4£ The bucket would take 1ft. by 6ft 7 Total So we may say, 9yds. The material costs about Is. a yard, so for 10s. all that will be wanted can be bought ; the thread, needles, and workman's pay may be another 5s. A portable drinking cup may be made from a fragment of the canvas. Soxes for kit should be waterproof, if possible, as heavy rains are often encountered. Good mule-trunks, about 2ft. long by 1ft. wide, and 15in. high, are suitable, owing to their size being that of a comfortable load for a coolie ; they are rather expensive, so it is cheaper to buy yak-dhans (leather-covered boxes). The chief con- venience of both these pattern boxes is the lid ; it does not open at the back on hinges, but about three inches from the back, on the FOR THE HIMALAYAS. top The leather covering is carried over the seam and hinges, and materially assists to keep out rain and dirt, while the box is much more handy to open in a tent In the annexed sketch the hingj-line is shown by dots from A to A. Four of these should YAK-DHAN. suffice to carry most of the kit, including stores and cooking utensils. A small piece of waterproof for each is a great blessiLg. A square yard will be enough, and will insure your boxes being always kept dry, for in incessant rain the contents are certain to suffer a little otherwise. An adze is a most useful tool in camp, to replace the heavy and unwieldly tent-hammer in the first place, and do a good many jobs that that instrument could not attempt. The adze weighs about 31b., and will drive tent pegs, dig a trench round and clear the ground for the tent, split firewood, and cut timber in the rough. Being faced with steel at the nose, it does not get much blunted by 40 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM ordinary soils. The handle slides down through the head, so can be removed for convenience of packing. It costs from three to five shillings complete. Cooking utensils. — No matter what obstacles may be in the way, copper and brass vessels should not form part of a kit, on any account. It is almost impossible to get them re-tinned at any regular time, and even then one is not sure of the material employed. Lead is very freely used, instead of the kind of solder that is suited for tinning, and should be guarded against. The list described here will be found safe and light. " Saucepans or camp and export use, with loose handles, complete in nest of ten, 42s." This is the description of them in the Stores list, but the sportsman does not want so many, and may get just what he requires out of the set ; four are sufficient, and may be two pint, three pint, six pint, and eight pint. In Calcutta, Messrs. Thompson (Esplanade-row, facing the Maidan) keep these articles, and probably there are others. They look like Deckchies, but are much stronger ; they fit one into the other, so take up little room. £ s. d. Four iron saucepans, with lids and loose handles 015 0 One small frying pan, folding handle 030 One small gridiron, light wire, double 030 One iron kettle, hinged handle 046 One small Warren cooking pot 0 12 0 1 17 6 The Warren pot is the cooking pot for camp life ; it requires only to be known to be appreciated. The lid on the top fits all three parts, so you may have your soup making for some hours, then put the vegetables on about an hour before dinner, and finally add the meat in its compartment, about half an hour before the meal is to be ready. If the soup seems to have taken up too much room and does not allow the meat compartment in, remove some of the bones and refuse meat from the former, and it should fit all right. In addition to the foregoing cooking utensils, it is well to have six tin plates or dishes ; they are sold by the dozen, and are really sheet iron, galvanised or tinned. They measure about lOin. in diameter, and 2Jin. in depth, and fit into one another, forming one rather thick soup plate, as it were, when packed. Two used together make an excellent pie-dish and oven combined ; two are useful as dishes to serve up in, and the remaining two are useful FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 41 to set milk in ; a pair of small iron tongs, a butcher's knife, small hatchet, pepper and salt boxes, and a small canister for cook to keep fat in, will complete the kitchen. In the way of plates, &c., a neat pattern can now be bought called "wrought iron enamelled ware." It is very tough and light, far better than the old-fashioned enamelled iron ware. At the Stores the prices are as shown against each article in the annexed list. One teapot (!$• pint) 2 Two breakfast- cups and saucers at Is. Id. each 2 Two egg-cups at 4|c7 0 Two dinner plates 9in., at 10£d 1 Two soup ditto, 9in., at lid 1 Two tumblers, £ pint, at 7£d 1 d. 7 2 9 8* 10 Total 10 3 In addition to these articles, there should be the following, which are not expensive : Two table knives and forks, two cheese knives, two teaspoons, two dessert spoons and forks, one pepper and salt box, two tin-openers, one steel, one bundle of skewers (iron). A camp lamp is wanted, as a bare light soon gets blown out. Good oil is hard to obtain, and it is a dirty thing to carry, so one should take candles. The handiest are a small self -fitting ozokerit by Field and others, which run twelve to the lib. box. They are by far the most portable and cleanly. A lamp in which to burn them is easily made of tin, with narrow glass slides ; the breaking 42 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM of one of them does not matter so much, as it would if there were four broad slides instead of eight narrow ones, as in the sketch. It should fit into a small tin case. Mind the handle and top are riveted to the frames, as the heat will often melt solder, and the whole top will come off. The bottom should have a bayonet- locking arrangement, as it is called, to enable one to put in the candle conveniently. The top frame should open on a hinge, to allow new glasses or pieces of tin to be inserted, should the others get broken. In its tin case it can be carried safely by a man with any load, or by your servant. A water-bottle should be of vulcanite, to hold about two or three pints. It is covered with felt, which saves it from being broken, besides keeping the contents hot or cold, according to the tempera- ture they are at when put in. Keeping the felt damp will insure a cold drink on the hottest day. Never buy an enamelled iron one ; I had such an one, and found it most repulsive in the Soudan. Cold tea turned to ink, owing to the action of the tannin on the iron exposed by the enamel chipping off, and I literally drank ink during some thirsty night marches ; it was horrible ! A leather mussuck and chargul should be procured before entering the hills ; excellent ones may be ordered from Cawnpore. The first is always useful in camp, the second when marching or shoot- ing on hot ground. The mussuk need not be made of an entire CHARGUL skin ; about one-half, or a small sheepskin, is ample. The chargul should hold three or four quarts of water ; it is practically a large leather bottle, with a tin spout, and keeps the water inside deli- ciously cool by the evaporation on the outside of what soaks through the sides (see sketch). FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 43 STORES. The following will be found most useful ; they will about fill one yfik-dhan and a dozen-wine-case (claret), when the ammunition has been put into the former (100 gun and 30 rifle cartridges) : 81b. Chollet's compressed vegetables (two 41b. cases). 121b. jam (assorted). 5lb. cheese. 61b. of candles (Fields' 12, in boxes). Two dozen matches (Tandsticker) Twelve pounds oatmeal (in lib. square tins). Half a pound Liebig's extract of meat (four 2oz. pots). 61b. Erbswiirst (or consolidated soups). 141b. sugar (moist). 21b. maccaroni. Two pounds Yeatman's yeast powder (in small tins). This is invaluable for making bread, puddings, &c., according to directions on wrapper on each tin.) 61b. tea. Six tins condensed milk. Twelve tins cocoa and milk (mixed). lOlb. soap. lib. salt, mustard, and pepper. Three bottles Worcester sauce (pints.) One bottle ink (half pint). 61b. bacon, in small tins. With reference to the above list, it may be as well to state why so much of some articles is recommended. Vegetables should be taken, as one is sometimes where none can be obtained, and a little is always so wholesome. Oatmeal and condensed milk supply a plate of porridge under the worst circumstances. Yeast powder has been explained in the list itself. Erbswiirst supplies one with a pint of delicious soup when no supplies can be obtained near camp, or one is unable to eat solid food through indisposition. Cocoa and milk give a nourishing and warming beverage for breakfast at 4 a.m. when pretty nearly frozen. Soap, always largely wanted to wash the soiled woollen clothes. Sauce, a great improvement to all stews and pies. Liquors. — There are none shown because they must be extra. If you want a " tot " every evening, a dozen of whisky will be a supply; but that is one coolie's load. Tea will be found much more comforting as a rule; but everyone does not think so, and he must estimate an extra load for every march, if he takes a fair supply of liquor. MEDICINES. Absence of the doctor is a thing one is apt to forget, and it is just as well to have a few simple remedies at hand in case of 44 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM emergency. Anything serious must involve a return to the nearest place where medical aid can be obtained ; with care and judicious haste, a patient may reach it in good time. A small note-book of doses and medicines is badly wanted. About twenty- four simple and ordinary cases, with their treatment, would be invaluable. None having come into the writer's hand, he can only recommend every traveller to take the following with him. The bottles are small, and the whole lot will not occupy much room if securely packed in a case : Perry Davis's pain killer, one small bottle. Cockle's pills, one box. Chlorodyne (Collis-Browne's), two bot- tles (2oz.) Compound camphor liniment, one bot- tle (2oz.) Rose water (for the eyes), one bottle (2oz.) Vaseline (for face and hands), four bottles (small). Hollow ay's ointment, one pot. Eno's fruit salt, one bottle. Jamaica ginger essence, one bottle (loz.) Mustard leaves, one tin case. Court plaister, two packets. Soap plaister, one roll. Lint, a small roll. Brandy, one bottle (the best). Small scales and weights. Small glass measure, for drops. &c. Quinine (loz.) Insect powder, four tins. And an Ingram' s enema, in case medicines fail or cannot act. WRITING MATERIALS, MAPS, &c. One of " Lett's Royal Scribbling Diaries," with a week in an opening, interleaved with blotting paper, is the best kind for all usual notes, &c. No. 31 (foolscap size) has enough room on each day for all general information ; a note-book should be used to record any special day's sport. 'I he diary is divided with three lines on each side of the page, and may be utilised as under : JUNE 11, MONDAY. J8| No. of coolies employed : R. A. p. jl ° . 0) 12 coolies, cost . . 3 0 0 ;i| a •s II III Q 0> 1 Started at 6 a.m. ; heavy rain ; reached Simla, Lowrie's Hotel, at noon ; all 12£ 03 I 1154 loads up ; scenery very fine ; no game about ; received letters from A., B., C., D. ; wrote to G., H., L, K. 02 FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 45 A note book is always of use in one's pocket or the shikarie's bag, as what is written down on the spot is worth a great deal more than what is written from memory. Foreign note paper, a little blotting paper and pens will complete the list, but an indelible pencil will be found to possess properties it would be a pity not to take advantage of. First of all, it is handy and compact, about 4in. long, and can be used on damp or dry paper, it does not rub so much as an ordinary lead, and lastly, when short of ink for letter writing, a small piece of the lead it takes (Eagle's) will dissolve in a teaspoonful of water and supply an excellent violet liquid. Maps of all the hills one intends to travel through are useful and interesting. Mark the camps or halts you make, and colour in the road you came with your pencil in the evening, or when you have some spare time. They will be thus corrected up to date, for they often vary considerably from what they were when surveyed. Write in the names of any places wrongly spelt or omitted, and, No. 100. .«?...:.. 8 ! FOLDED. - M r^i in fact, make them as nearly as possible complete. They should be mounted on thin cotton cloth, in small pieces about 2ft. by 1ft. (or a quarter sheet), with the number and position of the map marked outside them, such as of map No. 100. Divide it into four pieces, and mark them on one of the sides after folding. You can then lay your hand on what you want without opening each to see if it will join on. SUMMARY OF KIT, &c. On person. — One Norfolk jacket, one pair trousers, one flannel shirt, one cholera belt, one pair leggings, one pair socks, one pair shooting boots, one pocket handkerchief, one pair goggles, one helmet, one puggerie, one pair gloves, one pair binoculars, 46 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM one alpenstock, one water-bottle, one cartridge-bag (containing luncheon- tin, flask, pipe, tobacco, lights, note-book), one water- proof coat ; the last three to be carried by personal coolie or shikarie. Loads. — No. 1. Large tent, with peg-bag. No. 2. Tent-poles and camp-bed. No. 3. Bedding (see below). No. 4. Box (see below). No. 5. Box (see below). No. 6. Box (see below). No. 7. Box (see below). No. 8. Small tent, mussuck, bath, basin, bucket, adze, lamp. No. 9. Servants' kit, chargul. No. 10. Gun-cases (choose a good man for this load, though light). No. 11. Stores (in addition to No. 7 box). No. 3 Bedding. — Valise, two double blankets, one resai, one waterproof sheet, one ulster, one pair woollen drawers, one pair socks, one flannel shirt, two pocket handkerchiefs, one pair slippers, one Cardigan jacket, one towel and washing kit, one pair brushes, one clothes-brush, needles and thread, and, inside blankets when rolling up, diary and writing-case. No. 4 Box. — 100 gun cartridges, 30 to 40 riflo ditto, one flannel shirt, one cholera belt, one pair woollen drawers, one woollen jersey, two pair socks, one Norfolk jacket, one pair trousers, one pair leggings, one pair shooting boots, three pair outer socks, three pocket handkerchiefs, bundle mending materials, &c. (needles, thread, thimble, scissors, buttons, spare laces). No. 5 Box. — 100 gun cartridges, 30 to 40 rifle ditto, one flannel shirt, one jersey, two pair socks, three pair outer socks, one pair gloves, one chamois leather vest, three pocket handkerchiefs, medicines, axe, gun-covers, pouches, skinning knives, hunting knife, belts, measuring tape, lib. alum, one tin arsenical soap. 'No. 6 Box. — 100 gun cartridges, 30 to 40 rifle ditto, four cooking pots (complete), one gridiron, one frying-pan, one kettle, one Warren cooking pot, six tin dishes, one pair tongs, one butcher's knife, one hatchet, one pepper and salt box, one cannister, one teapot, two cups and saucers, two egg-cups, two dinner- plates, two soup plates, two tumblers, two table knives, two table forks, two cheese knives, two teaspoons, two dessert spoons, one pepper and salt castor, one steel, one bundle iron skewers, two tin-openers. (KB. The cartridges in this box to be used first.) No. 7 Box.— 100 gun cartridges, 30 to 40 rifle ditto, 41b. vegetables, 61b. jam, 21b. cheese, 21b. candles, one dozen boxes FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 47 matches, 61b. oatmeal, lib. Yeatinan's yeast powder, 21b. erbswiirst, 71b. sugar, 21b. tea, one bottle sauce, lib. salt and pepper, 21b. soap, one bottle ink, ^lb. Liebig's extract of meat, two tins condensed milk, four tins cocoa and milk, one tin bacon — altogether about 551b. contents. No. 11 Case. — Balance of stores, about 601b. REMOVING AND DRYING SKINS, &c. It is most essential to give personal supervision to the removal of skins from heads and carcases, as well as to their subsequent stretching and drying. Not one shikarie in a hundred will do them as they require to be done, to ensure their being set up properly by some well-known taxidermist subsequently. I am sure some general information will be of use to anyone commencing a tour through the hills, even if not bent on sport, for he may pick up some bird or animal, the skin of which he wishes to pre- serve as a temporary measure until it can be sent home or tanned. For a full treatise on the art, I recommend Rowland Ward's " The Sportsman's Handbook," and shall endeavour to give such hints here as will enable you to save skins from destruction. As to birds, the best way to skin them is by making an incision from the side of the abdomen up to the shoulder, under the wing ; by working out the rump and body you can get to the legs, clearing them down to the knee joints from the hips, where they should be divided. Then work to the wings, extracting each as far as the last joint, remove all meat, &c., and divide from the trunk at the shoulder, not at the last joint. Then work down the neck to the head, off which the skin should be cleared to the base of the mandibles. Clear the interior of the skull, remove tongue and palate, after having separated the head from the neck, and your skin is ready for preserving. Working back, anoint the inside of the skull, as well as the exterior, and all the skin, with arsenical soap ; be careful that the leg and wing bones are quite free from meat. Place rolls of tow or cotton wool in each limb, with some insect powder sprinkled through, and turn the skin right side out again. Stuff the body to the natural size, especially the neck; there should be a roll of tow inside the latter the exact length of that of the specimen, so that the skin will dry correctly. Dust the feathers well with 48 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM insect powder, and when quite dry (in about three days) roll up neatly in a paper, turning down and pinning the ends, so that the insect powder and its noxious fumes may remain around the bird. If the powder is not sufficient, add some camphor, or you will find a nasty, hairy weevil amongst the feathers later on ; the latter will be quite spoilt. It is well to overhaul and air the specimens on every spare dry day, carefully redusting them with the powder. Always allow plenty of room in a box for bird skins, with no weight on top of them. When an animal falls to the rifle, the shikarie usually wishes to " hallal " it (cut its throat), and does so immediately under the angle of the jaw-bone, slashing it from ear to ear. Everyone of the heads so treated is useless for stuffing, there being no neck left on which to mount them, and as a matter of fact the object of the " hallal " is lost, for the life blood rarely flows from such a wound, neither veins nor arteries being severed. However, that seems to be nobody's business ; as long as there is a gash somewhere in the throat the meat is clean, provided life was in the animal when it was made. Every native trusted to " hallal " good heads must be shown how to do so correctly ; the hunting knife, not the skinning ditto, must be used, and plunged into the throat from one side, just in front of the shoulder, where the neck ends ; there the veins and arteries come out from the trunk, and must be severed if the knife has a keen double edge. You can then remove the head from the carcase at sufficient distance to leave a good neck to mount it on, and remove the skin subsequently. A is where the shikarie likes to slash, B is where the prod or thrust should be, the dotted line being a good one to follow in detaching the head. To skin the head, commence by inserting the point of the hunting knife under the skin on the back of the neck, and cut up nearly to the horns ; then diverge to each horn. Next take the skinning knife, separate the skin from around their base very carefully, and remove the skin from the skull, cutting the ears through, and separating the nose and cheeks well in to the bone, so that the full interior will be left for stuffing. The nose will require careful opening from the inside ; also the ears and lips ; remove flesh and fat, rub in plenty of arsenical soap, dust in powdered alum, put some coarse stuffing into the head inside out, after sewing up the seam with a few stitches to keep the skin straight, and dry in the shade. FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 49 I used wood-ashes a good deal for preserving, the great object being to know that they are quite cold and dry before applying to the skins. If hot, good-bye to your skins, for they will be burnt ; if wet, the salts have been absorbed probably, and not much pre- servative power remains in them, besides which they do not absorb the grease and dampness of the skin. 50 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM The horns will get loose when dry, but may require separating from the core at the base ; kerosine oil is the best thing to preserve them from ravages by weevils, &c., but it blackens them too much to be natural, and I prefer pouring in turpentine, or corrosive sublimate dissolved in rain water. Clean the skull carefully, scraping off all flesh, and remove and clean the lower jaw ; clear out the brain by the hole where the spinal cord entered ; dry in the shade with some ashes sprinkled over, and when dry replace the lower jaw and horns, tie all well together in their places, attach a numbered label and a similar one to the skin belonging to them ; you will be able to have them mounted correctly by this means of identification, otherwise you may be horrified to find a ihar head-skin on an ibex skull when you visit the ancestral mansion where your trophies have accumu- lated after passing through some stuffer's hand, to whom the identity of the animals was unknown ! To skin an animal properly is not quite such a simple process as is generally thought ; you must attend to it, no matter whether you intend to have it stuffed or simply tanned, for most natives FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 51 will make incisions in the wrong places, and it will be quite out of shape when dried. Begin by inserting the sharp-pointed hunting-knife under the skin of the throat, and run it in a straight line down to the vent, along the belly. Next insert at the brisket, opposite the centre of the inside of foreleg, run up the inside until close to the knee, BEAR SKIN. then work round behind that joint, and run along the back of the leg to the pastern joint. Do the same with the hind leg, working round behind the hock and down to the pastern. Having cleared the leg, with the skinning-knife, separate the bones at the pastern joints, subsequently cutting them off if you prefer, or clearing them E 2 52 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM of bones and meat right into the foot, especially in the case of bears ; the latter will not dry well unless cleared of everything down to the claws. I generally left the hoofs on markhor and ibex until they were made up on rugs, &c., but they were very much in the way about the rooms, and made an awful clatter when tripped over I Having removed the skin, have it spread out to enable all the fat, meat, and small feet-bones to be removed. Then proceed to peg out. Commence by having the skin drawn on to the spot it is to be pegged out, so that the hair will get into its proper sit as it passes over the space. Have plenty of thin, sharp pegs ready ; drive one of them in centre of neck, then one in centre of rump at root of tail. Be quite sure the skin is not over- stretched, because, though you may make it bigger, the hair will become much thinner on the larger surface. Next have a peg driven through each foot, so as to- splay the legs out at a suitable angle ; have a good look at them from both ends of the skin, so that you may be sure they are alike. Then peg out the loose skin on each side of each leg, the neck, and feet, and then insert pegs about 4in. apart all round, to stretch quite even. Rub in a good quantity of cold wood-ashes, after painting the feet with arsenical soap ; cover with a waterproof -sheet at night or when rain comes on, and it will dry well in a couple of days. Peg out in the shade, but on dry, airy ground ; on no account in the sun, as the grease will melt into and spoil the skin for ever. Appended is a rough sketch of a bear skin pegged out, with numbers to show the order of insertion of the most important pegs. Too much pains cannot be taken with this portion of the sportsman's work if he has any wish to have a good show of skins on return from his trip. GENERAL NOTES. Bread cannot be bought in the interior of the hills, and it is wonderful how difficult it is to get any cook to make it for you. As a matter of fact, anyone can make passable buns or small loaves, if he only tries ; the great thing is to use baking or yeast powder, and not carbonate of soda. There is a difference between them ; for the former will make bread light and white, while the latter will make it leathery and yellow. Servants will often say that they have no oven ; but that is soon made. There are two FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 53 useful patterns, the first being to dig a small deep hole in the ground, wider at the bottom than top ; plaster it round with clay, and light a fire in it ; keep up the latter until the pit has become quite red-hot round the sides. Then have the ashes and embers removed, and lay your loaves at the bottom, cover the mouth with a flat stone, and keep the air out by putting some clay around it. The bread will be from half to one hour baking, according to the size and heat of the oven ; practice will enable one to judge the time. The other oven is made by stones above ground, covered with earth and used in the same way. Excellent cakes, pastry and bread can be turned out in these rough contrivances. For pastry one is often at a loss for butter ; a good cook will produce a fine white fat from the interior of any sheep, with which he can make up puffs, cakes, or pastry. It is a very acceptable change from bread alone, although it does not read as a very choice preparation. Bridges. — Many varieties will be met with, including suspension, pine-log, grass-rope, brushwood-rope, and raw-hide. As for the word bridge in the mountains, it means a way of crossing a river above the water, quite regardless of the manner in which it is accomplished. You may ride, walk, crawl, or be slung over ; still, the means are all bridges. The suspension require no remark, neither do the pine-log, as they are usually well built on good foundations ; but the grass-rope are very insecure things to look at, and at the end of the season, when the ropes have pretty well rotted, much care is required that too great a strain is not thrown on them. The loads should be cut down, and two or more trips made by each man, till all the baggage is safe across. Over these and the brushwood-rope, grass shoes or stocking feet should be the way for a sportsman to make the passage ; shooting boots are too hard and slippery. The brushwood-rope are made of a kind of four-plait, three or four such ropes at bottom to form the footpath, and other two or three on each side to form supports ; the latter are joined to the centre by stray binders. The whole bridge is a thing of dis- comfort, for the ends of the sticks catch one's clothes and delay one in a nasty swaying, jumpy spot, perhaps over the centre of a mighty torrent. A man before one will make the passage much easier The last kind, the raw-hide, are peculiar, for they consist of a single rope about as thick as four fingers, stretched across a gorge ; on it travels a large wooden fork, with a raw-hide loop made fast to each of the prongs. A light line extends to either 54 THE SPORTSMAN'S VADE-MECUM bank from this contrivance, enabling it to be pulled backwards and forwards. A leg is placed in each loop, the fork gripped with the hands, and the passenger despatched with a shove along the rope. He goes down with a rush, and is slowly pulled up on the other side by men on the bank. The rope is very elastic, and the sensa- tion must very much resemble what one would experience if danced up and down at the end of a piece of indiarubber, like a child's toy! It is undoubtedly strong, but it looks awfully weak; and dancing over a torrent in the Himalayas is not exactly the same thing as driving across Westminster Bridge in a brougham ! There is no fear of an accident if the passengers do not let go the fork. The smell of the grease burning from the friction is not agreeable, I may add. Cookery. — With the Warren pot a good deal may be done, but the pie-dishes deserve notice, as they provide such an excellent savoury repast. To commence one, take a dish and cover it with dough all over the inside and edges. Then lay in the ingredients, such as cut-up chikor, pheasants, fowls, venison, vegetables, sauce, &c., and put another layer of dough over the lot, letting it come well down on the edges, which should be wetted to make them adhere to each other. Then, turn a second dish upside down, and lay it on the first, pressing well down. Run a small strip of dough all around the seam to close it well. Bake by laying in the fire ashes, with some red embers on the top. It will take about half to three-quarters of an hour to bake. When cooked, remove the top tin and cut away. All the fragrance of the ingredients will be retained and the meats tender. Fires do not alarm game much, if not too exposed. Even markhor have come within sixty yards of the writer and his men round a fire under a rock, and remained watching for some time. Finally they clattered away, the darkness being too much for the game or sights to be visible to him, though the shikarie declared there was a good head amongst the former. Next morning some were seen from the rock, and during the day a herd trooped past, but the writer was elsewhere then. Fore-sights have been much written about and discussed. Pro- bably the most suitable is what is here described. The end of the bead, towards the breach, is counter-sunk with a small drill. Con- sequently the bead is always black, the bluing inside the counter- sinking remaining untouched after months of wear and tear. Of FOR THE HIMALAYAS. 55 course this hollow may be filled with red or other sealing wax if the sportsman wants a bright sight ; but the plain one described has been found excellent against everything, from a black bear to a piece of white paper. How it came to the writer's knowledge was by the silver bead-end falling out from the fore- sight of a rifle he had, and the sight so altered becoming much more distinct under all circumstances. Fruits. — Jogging along the road a look-out should be kept for wild fruits. The following may be found in many places : Red and white raspberries ; black and red currants ; strawberries ; goose- berries ; rhubarb • black cherries, growing in clusters like the flower of the horse-chestnut. From the gooseberries excellent "fool" may be made, but with rhubarb one should be moderate at first, as it acts rather as a purgative on some people. Hollows of express bullets generally have a copper tube pressed in tight; it is a fact that nothing is required there. The air becomes compressed by the velocity of the passage of the projec- tile, and blows up the bullet more effectually than the tube on entering an animal. The air inside the tube is of the ordinary atmospheric pressure, or a very little more if the tube fitted tight in the lead during the latter part of its passage into the bullet ; that in the hollow left open must have the pressure of several atmospheres when its velocity is about 1500 to 2000ft. a second. The accuracy of the rifle has been improved, so far as the writer's experience has gone, with both a '450 and '500 Express, by leaving the hollow open. Ice has often to be crossed when after ibex, crossing passes,