J. A. SUMMERS.
PUBLISHED BY
C. E. TWOMBLY,
BOSTON.
quabs
For Profit.
BY
J. A. SUMMERS.
PRICE 50 CENTS.
Gece 332 2y
4 y.
W ¢.E. Twombly, W
Y «Bublisber,
w Boston, Ws
m dass. w
Sessqwece?
sates
LIBRARY of GONGRESS
Two Gopies Received
"~APK g 1907
Copyright Entry
GLASS WKe,, No.
COPY 6.
JOPYRIGHTED 1897
COPYRIGHT PURCHASED 1900
BY
C.. Ek. TwomMeBLty,
BOSTON.
Received from
Copyright Office,
i 1 ic'07
Attention to Squabs,
Breeding Houses,
Breeders,
Breeders, Care of
Care of Breeders,
Canker in Throat,
Crop, Sour
Catarrh, Influenza or
Cholera,
Dressing Squabs,
Diseases,
Distemper,
Eggs, Marking
Enteritis,
Fly, Run or Wire
Food and Feeding,
Feathers a Profit,
Going Light,
Houses, Breeding
Incubation,
Influenza or Catarrh,
Lice, :
Lump in Throat,
Mating,
Marking Eggs,
Manure a Profit,
Purchasing,
Profit, Feathers a
Profit, Manure a
Profit, 70 per cent
Salt,
Squabs, Attention to
Squabs, Dressing
Shipping,
Sour Crop, ,
Throat, Canker in
Throat, Lump in
Vomiting,
Water,
Worms,
noder.
. ~~
eS eS
2 . :
Pat ACH.
SNOT ON Nope
The author of this litthke book has been a success-
ful squab raiser for a number of years, but the same as
others found many obstacles when commencing business.
I felt inneed of reliable information myself, and it is
for those in the same predicament, atid those who made
inquiries, that I publish this book.
J. A. SUMMERS,
CHALFONT, PA
ENGLISH RUNTS.
(Reproduced from Fulton’s Book of Pigeons.)
Sguabs for Profit.
BREEDING HOUSES:
N commencing this work a few points in reference to
| the proper location and building for raising squabs,
might be worthy of mention, particularly for the
benefit of those commencing business. The most ex-
pensive buildings do not necessarily bring a success in
the squab business, but the one I here describe I have
found after experimenting with many houses to be as
cheap as any, and answering the purpose just as well.
If one has the capital, tongued and grooved boards ean
be used, and the heating system adapted. This has the
tendency to lower the death rate of squabs frozen in the
Winter, but at the same time it appears to be detri-
mental to the old birds health, for if the buildings are
heated inside, the birds are very liable to contract a
severe cold when coming out into the cold atmosphere
in the runs. I have not as yet adapted the heating sys-
tem, but some large squab dealers have and claim bene-
fitfrom it. The following description of building I
find the best for this purpose and the cheapness of the
same might be a great advantage in the start.
8
The location of the breeding house is one of the
first to be considered, The house should be erected up-
on a dry surface, face the South, and should be built if
possible next to some larger building, such as a stable
or barn so as not to be too much exposed to the cold
winds of the North and Westin Winter. The most ex-
pensive houses are of not much account if they are not
built in the proper location, and kept in a good sani-
tary condition at.all times. Particular pains must be
taken in the construction of buildings, and care of the
birds and the results will be favorable and encouraging.
Squabs bring high prices in Winter, and as it is the
hardest time of the year to successfully raise them, to
select a good warm place for the building is one of the
main points to be considered.
In constructing the breeding house use only good
lumber, Hemlock boards 12 inches wide, 16 feet in
length and an inch in thickness I find the best for mak-
ing pigeon houses, cheaper lumber can of course be
used for the roof, as felt roofing should go over it.
Hemlock scantling 2x4 should be used in making the
frame work.
The building should be 32 feet in length, 10 feet
in width, 8 feet high in front and 7 feet high in the
rear. The roof can be made of hemlock boards 1 inch
thick, tongued and grooved, 1 foot wide over which
tack three ply felt roofing. This felt lasts a great while,
but the two ply may only last a season or two, so it
will be more economical in the end to purchase the for-
mer, To preserve the roof a coat of tar and sand or
9
slag cement can be applied over the felt every Spring
and Fall at least.
Never use slate for roofing breeding houses, for in
Winter it gets exceeding cold, and in Summer extreme-
ly hot, endangering the lives of the birds building in
the higher nests. A good plan is to have a double roof,
1, e, have an inner one builta few inches below the out-
er, leaving an opening at the ends to allow a draught to
pass through in Summer, This will keep out a great
amount of heat from the sun’s rays. Have several
transoms near the roof, at the ends of the house, which
should be left open in Summer, Four windows 2x 3
feet should be put in the front, and one of the same stze
at the East end, all to be midway between the roof and
the floor, thereby admitting plenty of sunlight, of which
the birds are exceedingly fond, Tlave the windows
put in so they can be slid back on the inside for the
hot weather, The house should be divided into four
compartments, using lath or wire netting for making
the partitions,
The interior of the building must have boxes or
nests on all sides, which should be a foot square with a
strip three inches wide nailed in the front to prevent
the squabs from falling out. Never have the nests
made less than 1 foot in height for if any lower, the
birds nesting in the higher ones will be continually
picking at the heads of those in the row underneath,
therefore make them plenty high and avoid consider-
able disturbance. If birds nesting side by side are
constantly fighting from the front of the nests, nail a
10
small board outside and between the nest so they can-
not see one another, Allow two nests for each pair
of birds, for good breeders will have built a new nest
and oftimes have eggs again, before the squabs in their
other nest have attained marketable size. The use of
nest pans I donot fancy and think it a waste of money,
for mest of them are entirely too small, and the squabs
are liable to tumble out and perish, but if the proper
size which is 10 inches at least across the top and3 to 4
inches deep can be had, at a reasonable outlay, they
may prove an advantage.
17
An excellent plan to be sure of having young birds
is to have an extra pen for young ones alone. and when
you notice a fine large pair of squabs in Summer, when
prices are low, let them fly in this loft, At 6 months
of age they will usually mate up, and if you are sure
they are mated to stay, put them to work in breeding
house. Sometimes they undertake this step when but
4 months old, but Homers to do their best and to be
strong and healthy in after years should not be allowed
to mate until the age above mentioned. Many have
adopted this plan, and by the time Summer. is over
their stock is largely increased with good young birds
for Winter breeding and at little extra expense.
“*
MATING.
Oe a we
LWAYS see that the birds are well mated, and if
A purchased of good reliable fanciers, they will be
mated when sent you. Never allow an odd cock
the privilege of flying loose amongst the others as he
will invaribly do more harm by fighting with them and
also by killing more young squabs than many diseases
will. It is a good plan to have a special box for the
purpose of mating, with a partition in the centre; place
the cock in one side, the hen in the other and after a
few days draw out the partition etc. To distinguish
the sex is often a hard task for many with experience,
but by closely watching the birds one will readily ob-
serve that the cock does considerably more cooing and
has generally more life about him than the hen, and in
flirting with the hen often turns around several times
a hen seldom turns more than half way around. The
hen is usually smaller than the cock and has somewhat
a different shaped head. To tell the sex without see-
ing their actions in the loft is however not an easy task,
and oftimes one purchases a bird supposed to be a hen
and when at home finds it to be a cock. Mistakes are
often made in this way. The only true way to dis-
ihe)
tinguished the sex (and one which stands to reason) is
to catch the bird and hold it in one hand, and with the
index finger of the other hand’ pass it gently between
the vent bones. You will soon notice in so doing that
the bones of the hen are much farther apart than those
of the cock and after a little pratice one can soon learn
to tell the sex accurately and make very few mistakes
any atall. This I have found the best and only
common sense way of distinguishing the sex, the vent
bones of the hen gradually becoming farther apart by
. laying eggs. Oftimes the sex of squabs can be told in
this way also.
When one bird is constantly chasing another all
around the building and outside as well, the last one is
the cock and the former his mate and that they are
ready to build a nest will be proven in a short time
afterwards. The cock will continue to drive the hen
in this way for several days until their nest is
finished and eggs are laid.
FOOD. AND .FEEDING.
Sa eT
ANY fanciers prefer feeding their birds by the
ry hand i.e, throwing out their feed upon the
ground or loft floor, in such quantities that —
will be eaten up at one meal. I differ with them in
this respect for in this way they eat too hurriedly
and swallow more or less dirt with their food. The
most customary at the present time and the _ best
possible way of feeding is with hoppers or trays.
Make them 10 or 12 feet in length, about 6 inches
wide, and a good plan is to have a top made, On
the sides have strips so nailed that the birds cannot
get into the trough and yet can get their heads
through and eat, In this way the troughs or hoppers
are always clean. Give at each meal alittle more feed
than will be eaten up clean, the extra amount given
will be eaten up by those birds on the nest at the time
of feeding, as some birdsdo not leave their nests and
otherwise would go hungry until their next meal.
Birds that are breeding should be fed but twice a day,
early in the morning and about 4 o’clock in the after-
noon. They will then have ample time to feed their
young before dark. As far as can be done allow only
one person to do the feeding and the birds will soon
become accustomed to their entering the loft and grow
quite tame, when if different ones feed them they will
be frightened at each feeding, wild birds will not breed
as freely as tame ones and less accidents will happen,
such as broken legs, chilled young etc.
When birds have their freedom they fly around
from place to place and gather for their living what
suits their tastes. In the country they frequent newly
harvested grain-fields, and eat all manner of new
grains, which would cause sickness if they were given
it when housed up. This no doubt is from the fact
that when at liberty they have better exercise. Birds
in confinement have no choice but are compelled to
thrive upon the food put before them. Good food,
good stock; poor food, failure. The best food is the
cheapest by far. All grains fed should be well dried,
as much loss and disease has been endangered from the
use of green grain. The latter produces diarrhoea and
the birds emaciate until death relieves them.
Birds require a variety of food same as persons,
and ones fed upon the same kind of food for any length
of time will not thrive and soon become lazy and un-
profitable for the squab-raiser. A large variety of food
is not at all necessary but to change it often is essen-
tial to their health.
Red wheat (never use white) is, taking it the
whole year around, about the best food, although the
author often gains excellent results from the use of
good screenings. With this besides the wheat it con-
tains, the birds get tares, different other seeds etc., but
+)«)
one objection to the use of screenings and one which
causes the death of many birds:is the rye which it con-
tains, Rye is as poison to pigeons and in fact poultry
also. If they should eat the smallest quantity diarrhoea
will set in, and if the cause of birds being sceured is
not known and the food changed at once they die in a
comparatively short time. I once lost nearly a whole
flock of birds in this way before discovering the real
cause, but soon as I changed their food giving wheat in-
stead, the remainder of my flock entirely recovered.
After I examined the screenings I had been feeding I
found some rye, but not in such very large quantities
either, so this 1s proof that it requires but a small
amount to cause the death of birds even if healthy.
Corn is the next best article of food. It should be
given to them cracked and very dry. Never feed
whole corn to birds that are breeding as it is as hard
bullets in the tender crops of the little squeakers.
Cracked corn is preferred and should be purchased in
only small lots and often, for it is a great absorbent of
moisture and soon becomes mouldy and unfit for use as
food. Using old stale cracked corn is one of the
causes of sour crop in birds. It should not be cracked
too fine and should never be fed in connection with
wheat or peas, If a change in food is thought necess-
ary always wait until the morning meal then their crops
are entirely empty and the change will be less liable to
cause the birds illness, It is much better to feed
screenings or wheat one meal, buckwheat, millers wheat
one meal, screenings or cracked corn the next ete., than
to give a mixture allat once. Bear in mind feed only
23
the red wheat and this should be of the very best qual-
ity. Scorehed wheat which is so often purchased of
dealers who claim it grand food for poultry, and which
ig too often used by the fanciers on account of its cheap-
ness is not fitfor food, for its nutriment value is not
worth speaking of. This wheat sometimes, but very
seldom, comes from grain elevator fires, and the best is
taken out and dried, after which it is sold tor poultry.
The majority I find after investigation is nothing more
nor less than wheat which has been stored away for a
considerable length of time, and has become mouldy.
This then is put through a process, by which the grains
are somewhat charred, evidently to lessen the smell
of the mould. It is then claimed to come from eleva-
tor fires. If all the burnt wheat had come from these
fres not an elevator would be standing The secret of
this process was given the author by an intimate friend,
a wealthy miller. One of the most nutritious foods for
pigeons is oats, It contains a great percentage of
starch and they are valuable on account of the great
amount of mineral material they contain. The proteine
and fats are however in smaller quantities, but on the
whole oats will be found,a very valuable food. The
only objection to its use Is that of the extremely sharp
hulls. The only safe way to feed oats is the hulled
i. e. with the outer shell removed, Rolled oats answers
the same purpose, but for the squab raising business
where the expense must be kept down as far as possible,
‘t will be found too dear to feed regularly, but will be a
relish very highly appreciated.
24
Millet especially the German millet is another val-
uable article of food but on account of its stimulating
qualities, a little goes a great way. Feed it occassional-
ly mixed with wheat as a relish. Caraway and canary
seeds can also be given in the same way. Sunflower
seed if hulled makes an article of food very valuable
during the moulting season, and in the dead of Win-
ter, Itresembles Hemp seed-which is also highly con-
centrated, heatening and fat forming. It has been de-
cided that the black seed is far superior to the Russian.
These seeds put an elegant gloss to the plumage, and
will be found very beneficial in assuming the proper
condition of the feathers of birds for the shows, A
fine lustre will be established with only a few fed.
A new variety of corn has recently been grown here
which will grow into favor with breeders. It has a
small kernel the size of asmall pea. It is called the
Kaffir Corn, has all the qualities of the Indian Corn
and will answer the same purpose. It can be swallow-
ed. very easily by the smallest of birds, and may be fed
on the same principle as the large corn.
The food should be varied according to the seasons
for instance in Winter when the nights are cold, and
the birds quiet, a required amount of heat must be
supplied. It is then the time to feed corn. Always
feed itat night, and cut the amount down to mere noth-
ing during the Summer months. Many fanciers resort
to nothing but corn for their birds on account of its
cheapness and there are many birds raised upon noth-
ing but corn, but these are not hardy.
25
An occasional cupful of buckwheat and hempseed
mixed is a luxury for the pigeons, but the latter should
be fed very sparingly as it is entirely too rich and fat-
tening for healthy birds, but is an excellent article to
always have on hand for sick or run down birds, and
very nourishing food for those suffering from the disease
known as Going Light.
Canadian peas are relished by the birds and are
also very nourishing but for this industry, in which ex-
penses must be kept down as much as possible. Peas
will be dear as the price is very high, Scraps from
the table, such as pieces of bread, cakes, ete., will
be eaten with relish, Sometimes stale bread can be
purchased at the bakeries at a very small figure, but
it must not be at all mouldy, Soak it first in warm
water before feeding and then watch how greedily they
devour it,
Green food is not as necessary for pigeons as for
poultry, but an occasional bunch of salad is good and
also chick weed ifthe latter can be found. Ground
oyster shells must be before them at all times, as it
aids in the formation of shells. Lime they must have
in some form, and besides oyster shells they may be
given plaster from old buildings or from old mortar
beds,
26
WATER.
Pigeons require a greater amount of water than
poultry, and good fresh water in suitable fountains ~
should always be kept before them, Excellent recep-
tacles for this purpose can be made from a molasses
barrel by sawing the top and bottom off above the
second hoop. Two nice tubs four or six inches deep
will then have been made, which should be filled full
with water. Scrub these tubs out every morning before
giving fresh water, especially in Summer and when the
temperature rises from 85 to 100 degrees the water
must be changed often and the tubs scalded out oc-
casionally.
Always allow your birds to bathe freely when
they wish, in Winter as well as in Summer, they in this
way rid themselves of much dirt and sometimes lice.
After all have finished their bath throw away the water
and give them afresh supply. Never allow the birds
to drink of the water after bathing in it,
SALT.
Salt is as essential to pigeons as bread is to man-
kind. Care must be taken however in giving it them
for birds not accustomed to it will often eat entirely too
much at one time and die from the effects. Give only
a small quantity at first to such birds, and gradually in-
crease the amount day after day until they become used
27
to it when it can then be given them in hoppers and
should be before them at all times. I always use the
coarse or ground salt (same as used forcattle) in pre-
ference to rock salt and never experienced bad results
as birds after becoming accustomed to it will never
eat too much,
Birds are exceedingly fond of codfish anda small
piece tacked up against the side of their lofts will be
highly appreciated by them. I have heard of parties
putting this fish in boxes outside their barns and
strange birds would come in large numbers and make
their abode there.
Salt Cat is recommended by some fanciers to pro-
mote the best health in pigeons, and given to breeders
will be found a good tonic and preventative of disease
to a certain extent. It is made by taking coarse sand
two pecks, slacked lime one peck, salt one pint, ground
oyster shells one-half peck, crushed cumin and caraway
seeds each one-half pound, mix well. Then take Sul-
phate of Iron one-fourth pound, Sulphuric Acid one-half
ounce and dissolve in two quarts of water. It will take
about two quarts of water to mix the above ingredients
and to each quart add several tablespoonfuls of this
mixture. Lay away to dry when it can be readily
broken up in fine pieces and given the birds in a corner
of the feed hopper.
CARE .OF- BREERERS.
DN a
OUR best birds require your best attention. See
that they are well mated and if one should die, at
‘once replace it with one of the same sex. Many
make great mistakes by crowding their birds in the
lofts. Birds to do their best must have plenty of room,
and fanciers putting too many in one compartment find
in the end they do so to their own sorrow. Twenty-
five pair in each pen is sufficient if partitions are arrang-
ed so that only eight or ten pairs are kept together the
results will be better.
Diseases such as Canker, Going Light, etc. are sure
to arise in overcrowded lofts. Heating the breeding
house in Winter is not at all necessary as good healthy
birds are not affected by the cold weather, Ones
which are accustomed to warm compartments invaria-
bly catch cold more readily when flying out in the cold
run where a sudden change is met, than those without
heat. The sun’s rays, if the building is in the proper
location furnishes all the heat necessary. The lofts
should be well ventilated in Winter same as Summer
but always avoid draughts in cold weather. |
29
During the moulting period extra pains must be
taken to keep the birds in a healthy condition for at
this time they are more sensitive to diseases than at
other times. Never work them too hard at this period
and if given a rest by seperating the sexes for a month
or so then returning them to their lofts they will be
more vigorous and breed surprisingly afterwards, A
small supply of hemp seed is good at this time given in
connection with wheat, etc. and green food is very bene-
ficial also. Very often young birds when moulting
droop, waste away and die, This is called Distemper
and if no diarrhoea exists, can often be cured by pull-
ing out with one sharp jerk all the tail feathers. Some
might think this cruel, but I think they are not so sen-
sitive in this respect at this period. This is practiced
among all fanciers,
Fanciers who make it a business to breed nothing
but the fancy varieties of pigeons will find it to their
advantage to seperate the cocks from the hens during
the Winter months. This will give the hens a rest and
their breeding qualities better for the next season,
Put the cocks in pens by themselves, and the hens like-
wise in one by themselves, but have solid partitions so
they cannot see each other all the time for if otherwise
they would most likely keep up their relations and
cause both cock and hen to worry and flutter all the
time trying to get together, Ifnew pairs are to be
used in breeding the next season, it will become a task
for the owner for they will invariably mate up again
with the old mates.
30
MARKING EGGS.
The hen will lay but two eggs, generally a day or
two apart. I find it agreat advantage to keep a close
watch on all the boxes and mark the date on the front
of each box when the eggs were laid. By so doing one
can almost tell to a day when they will hatch, and an-
other advantage, can readily tell if they will hatch or
not. After the birds have been setting upon the eggs,
say for three or four days take the eggs gently out of
the nest and hold them up towards the sunlight or win-
dow and as the shells are very thin the eggs are almost
transparent, and infertile eggs you will observe on one
side a number of veins all coming together at one point
in the centre, the whole resembling in appearance, a
spider. If after five or six days these veins do not
make their appearance the eggs will not hatch and
might as well be thrown out for what use would there
be in having birds setting upon them their full time if
one knows they will amount to nothing. Throw them
away and in a week or so they will. have laid others
If only one egg is hatchable it may be taken out and
put in another similar nest where only one will hatch
and where the eggs were laid about the same time,
One will readily see that this plan is saving and adds a
little more profit, but never make birds hatch more
than nature requires them; two eggs. If three or four
eggs are hatched by the same birds, only two squabs
will amount to anything probably as is often the case
none are first class, but puny and unsalable.
dl
The question often arises: Why are there more
cock pigeons than hens? The author thinks that as
the cock bird is most always hatched first, the parent
birds show partiality towards him in the way of atten-
tion and feed him more, and in this way neglect the
hen. Oftimes the hen squab from this neglect becomes
poorly nourished and too often dies, Another reason
might be that the hen has not so strong a constitution
as the cock, and more susceptible to malignant diseases,
and one peculiar to their sex.
INCUBATION.
. The cock takes up nearly as much time in setting
upon the eggs as the hen does, both taking part. The
cock isarelief for the hen and sets from about ten
o'clock in the morning till four o’clock in the aiternoon;
sometimes in between times also, It usually takes
eighteen days for eggs to hatch and as one is. laid a day
or so before the other, one will hatch before the other,
the first hatched being the cock.
ATTENTION TO. SQUABS.
Much can be done in the way of attending squabs
which many neglect doing and a few points might be
of interest to those who have not had much experience.
Squabs when young receive proper attention from the
parent birds but the fancier often increases his profit
to some extent by using his birds to their best advan-
tage i, e. making them do all that nature requires of
32
them. Each pair of birds are capable of rearing but
one pair of squabs at a time, but as often only one egg
hatches in a certain nest look through your loft and
usually you will find another nest with but one hatched
also, If the squabs are of about the same age, one of
them can be put in with the otherand the one pair of
birds will have to rear them both. This can be done
until the squabs are quite large and the old birds will
not know the difference thinking both their own,
Again if both eggs do hateh-and one squab grows and
thrives better than the other (which is too often the
case as parent birds show partiality towards the male
squab and feed it more) take the poorly nourished one
away and do as above mentioned, and nine times out-of
ten it will grow surprisingly,
LICE
Lice have caused the death of many valuable birds
and great numbers of squabs are annually being tor-
mented to death by these pests. Whitewashing and the
use of kerosene oil are of little or no value to prevent
lice from forming. The best way of prevention is to
allow the birds nothing but tobacco stems or ribs with
which to build their nest always having a good supply.
of strong fresh ones before them and lice will be scarce.
If they should appearin spite of every precaution, as
they sometimes do especially when the stems have lost
their strength sprinkle a little crude carbolic acid
around in the nests, This sometimes rids them and is
an excellent disinfectant if nothing else, The main
DEO)
-)
way to prevent tice from forming is to keep the breed-
ing houses and nest as clean as possible. Nests when
occupied by squabs soon become very offensive and un-
healthy from accumulation of the soft excrement, and
is sureto breed lice. By removing the nests every
week or so, and replacing with fresh stems makes a bet-
ter appearance and is certainly much healthier for the
squabs, allowing them to grow and thrive well. Squab
raisers must pay strict attention inevery way to keep
their breeding houses in a good sanitary condition if
they wish to become successful. Occasionlly throwing
a handful of slacked lime in each nest .is another ex-
cellent way of pervention but never put it upon the
floor as I once heard of a fancier doing, he had it to the
depth of an inch or so aH! around the floor of his loft
and in consequence lost all his flock of costly birds from
strangulation by dust which the birds raised when fly-
ing about. Clean the houses well at least once a week
especially in Summer and by following the above pre-
cautions lice will be of no consideration whatever. |
DRESSING SQUABS.
QUABS fit for market purposes should not be un-
der four weeks old and it often pays the raiser
better if he will allow them to get a week older
for they will fill out considerably more in that much ex-
tra time, Squabs are generally killed too soon, that is
before they have attained theirfull growth. Never kill
them when their hind part is yet soft as many do but
wait until it hardens even if they fly out of the nest a
week or so, then the pin feathers will have attained a
good length and renders it less tedious to pick; and the
breast of the squab is filled out properly.
Go through your breeding houses the afternoon
of the day previous to the day you intend shipping and
collect the squabs you think suitable and place them in
boxes until the following morning then their crops
will be entirely empty and you thereby save much la-
bor and time in extracting the grain, although this can
be done after a little practice in a very short time.
Never ship squabs to market with full crops for by the
time they reach there the food which they contain will
cause them to look dark and poorer prices will be
realized.
a
59)
When ready to kill, after having baskets for feath-
ers, buckets, etc. handy by your side, take a squab in
the left hand and hold it up by the wings and feet so as
to allow all the blood to enter the head, then witha
very sharp bladed knife make a deep incision into the
jugular veins, never sticking them in the upper part of
the mouth as some do, as they do not bleed so well.
Commence picking as soon as the blood is done flowing
whether the bird is dead or not, as the feathers are
more easily pulled than after the squab has gotten cold.
Some might think this is cruel but I think they are in-
sensible of pain after sticking and bleeding. Pull the
tail and wing feathers out first and then the others being
very careful not to tear the skin on the breasts and near
the head. This the best pickers will do at, times, but
after a little practice anyone will become accustomed
to picking and willtear but few and do the feathering
very quickly, the author having picked as high as seven
pairs in an hour but would not lketo undertake to
work a whole day at that rate. Five pairs an hour is
good enough time at picking. Have a buckettul of cold
water (in which there has been thrown a good handful
of fine salt) nearby and immediately after picking throw
the squabs into the water, It brings out the animal
heat and the salt improves the color of the skin, remov-
ing the greater part of darkness often seen in squabs
that have been improperly stuck and that did not bleed
freely. Squabs naturally dark are greatly improved
also in this way. Wash the dirt off their feet, the
blood out of their mouths, fold back their wings, tie up
56
in pairs birds of the same size and fatness and hang up
till shipping time,
SHIPPING.
Another important part in this business is to find
the best purchasers for your stock. Many ship their
whole supply to game dealers in New York City and
other large cities who pay them very fair prices, but
what is better if residing near a city is to have your
own private customers, who often if they are sure you
can supply them regularly the whole year around will
pay high prices. Get the best parties, always, in pri-
vate families as well as in hotels and resturants and de-
liver them yourself, If you are not in close proximity
with a large city and are compelled to ship them away
always get a good game dealer to take your squabs as
they always pay better prices than commission men:
The reason for this is that the former retail their goods
to the hotels, etc, while the latter only wholesales.
When ready to ship pack the squabs in layers in a
box of the proper size for the quantity of birds you wish
to ship and pack with their breast down, keeping the
best birds for the top of the box. In Summer always
put ice in the box or boxes. Crack it in small pieces
about the size of a walnut and put in the bottom of the
box several inches of it, then pack your squabs, and
after all are in, put several inches of the ice on top of
all. Fill in the remainder of the box with nice white
paper. In Winter pack the same only the ice is not
necessary. In shipping never send by freight, always
by express as this is the quickest way of getting your
—— er
Vey
|
goods to their destination and the companies are respon
sible for all damages inflicted,
PEATHERS “A PROFIT.
Everything must be taken into consideration in
this industry even down to selling feathers and manure,
Each will add something to the other profits. Where
large numbers of squabs are killed weekly the feathers
will accumulate in great quantities. Save all excepting
the wing and tail feathers and after baking in an oven
several times can then be sold. Many claim them al-
most equal to goose feathers.
MANURE A_ PROFIT.
Have barrels near the building expressly for the
manure and by cleaning the floor each week also throw-
ing in all stems and excrement from the unoccupied
nests, barrels will be collected. Farmers during corn
planting time will be only too glad to buy it and will
pay excellent prices for they claim it to be the best ot
fertilizers.
VO SPER “CENT. PROFIT.
The squab raising industry without doubt pays a
larger percentage of profit on the capital invested than
many kinds of business at the present time, but much
depending upon the care and management of course,
Take for instance 500 pairs of birds i, e. good breeding
ones. The average cost of feeding one pair each week
is about 1 1-2 cents. Good breeders will have at least
38
8 pairs of squabs per year and some average more.
Taking it at the low average of 8 pairs per year, 500
pairs of birds would have 4000 pair of squabs. Sup-
posing 500 pairs of these would die which most always
happens to a certain extent and at the close of the year
3500 pairs of squabs will have been sold. At an aver-
age price of 35 cents per pair for squabs the whole
year around the receipts would amount to $1225. 00 and-
subtracting the cost of feeding your birds which would
be about $390.00 (at the above rate per week) your
profit would amount to $835.00 or about 70 per cent
figuring in the profit on manure, ete, What better em-
ployment can anyone find where the profit is so large,
but no one can expect tosucceed in this business (the
same as in any other) unless he puts his mind down to
it and pays all attention possible. Every one can learn
many different things from experience, but as the fore-
going pages are written from years of pratical experi-
ence, by so following, success is found to reign supreme.
The following pages on the Diseases of the Pigeon will
be found valuable to every breeder, and the prescriptions
given therein for the various ailments are altogether
harmless and have been used by the author with the
very best results. Above all do not place too much
confidence in advertised nostrums, as many of the pro-
prietors have never had any experience whatever in
the pigeon business,
Bin,
ae
= Cory wi ghe bs E Perey Qhive 99
HOMER SQUABS JUST READY FOR MARKET.
DISEASES.
SONS BR nee)
ie is hardly necessary for the author to enter into de-
tail with every disease to which the pigeon family
may fall heir, but I will treat only upon the most
common and dangerous diseases with which the squab
raiser must contend, A fewhints as to the care and
feeding of sick birds might also be beneficial. Any-
one can readily notice when a bird is not well, they are
apparently lazy, droopy, generally off their feed, and in
other words all out of sorts, but to know the true na-
ture of the disease and to have the proper remedies at
hand is one reason I treat on the diseases for it takes
an important part in this business. When birds are ill
the selection of proper food is of main importance,
hemp, canary seed or wheat in the right proportions
should be placed before it, to tempt it to eat although
in most diseases owing to a fever they prefer drink.
In such a.case use oat meal water i. e. water in which
several handfuls of the meal has been soaked. Keep
those sick in a seperate pen or box and give them all
attention possible.
Diseases as a general rule originate in some negli-
gence on the part of the fancier feeding poor grain, im-
pure water or want of cleanliness,
41
GOING LIGHT.
The most troublesome and dangerous disease to _
which breeding birds are subject is Going Light or in
other terms consumption. It is a tubercular disease
and very contagious, the disease germs being taken in
food or water. It is often caused by a sudden chill,
taking cold or from some irritating food or water. The
disease generally commences with diarrhoea or infla-
mation of the bowels which sooner or later reaches the
lungs, The birds lay around with ruffled feathers and
have a very miserable appearance. The discharges are
very slimy and frequent, and if proper attention is not
paid the bird weakens and dies, having wasted toa
mere skeleton. Unless your bird is of special value
kill it at once for this disease is very hard to cure and
being exceedingly contagious whole flocks sometimes
die. The old saying an ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure, I have found good policy and when
this disease is once noticed, use the following precautions
to prevent others from getting it. See that there is no
cold draught in the house, although well ventilated as
it often originates in a cold. Next give only good food
and fresh water, whatever food having a tendency to
cause looseness of bowels to be discontinued at once,
Give feeding hoppers and water tubs a good scalding
out, and add atablespoonful ortwo of the tonic made
as follows to each tub of water, never using this pre-
scription in anything but wooden receptacles. In mak-
ing this tonic which is very useful in treating many
other diseases also, take Copperas 4+ ounce, Sulphate of
42
Soda 4 ounces, Gentian Root $ ounce, Phosphate of
Soda 2 ounces and pure Beechwood Creosote 1 dram.
First take the Creosote and rub well into 20 grains of
Calcined Magnesia (otherwise it would not mix in
water) add it to two quarts of warm water, and follow
with the other ingredients. This I find the best tonic |
and is an excellent thing to prevent disease, it having
the best antiseptic properties known for pigeons, If
this cannot at once be made up, a teaspoonful of Tr,
Chloride of Iron may be used but is not so good. This
is the best preventative of Going Light and most all
other diseases and is harmless,
CANKER IN THROAT.
This is by no means an uncommon disease es-
pecially among squabs atan age of a few weeks. It
greatly resembles diphtheria and some authors claim it
to be the same. It is caused by contagion and usu-
ally comes in Winter when the thermometer is low and
the air moist. The symptoms are fever, swelling of
throat after which appears ulcers on either side, form-
ing a yellow cheesy matter very offensive. This dis-
ease is hard to cure among squabs especially, and too
often cannot be cured, but the whole flock must be doc-
tored and prevention used to keep the others from
catching it. I puta small piece of common alum about
+ the size of ahickory nut, in the drinking water for
several weeks and the disease will not spread in fact I
was never bothered with it after once using. Do not
give too long, and every other week give the tonic,
43
My profits in the Winter have been largely increased
by the above method, when others around me lost near-
Jy all their birds. Whenold birds are afflicted, they
can often be cured by removing the cheesy matter and
applying a small quantity of burnt alum to the throat.
Never use turpentine as some do, for it has a tendency
to elevate the temperature of the bird which has at
that time a high fever, as it is. After applying the
burnt alum, which is a powerful astringent and eats
away the false membrane, some mild oil should be used
to encourage healing.