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r

1

\

THE

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

OB

SCOTLAND.

\

THX

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

O F

SCOTLAND.

DRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS

O F T H E

MINISTERS

OFT H,E

DIFFERENT PARISHES.

By Sir JOHN SJ[ NC L A I R, Bart.

VOLUME EIGHTEENTH.

** Mcon/ttwrn de rtfulBca danJum, caput efinoffd rempubluam.**

Cicero de Orat. lib. ii.

EDINBURGH:

PRINTED AND SOLD BT WILLIAM CREECH^

AHD ALSO SOLD BY J. DONALDSON, A. GUTHRIE, W. LAlNG, AND

JO. AND JA. FAIRBAIRN, EDINBURGH ; T. CADELL,

J. DEBRETT, AND j. SBWEL, LONDON;

PUNLOP AND WILSON, GLASGOW; AND

ANGUS AND SON, ABERDEEN.

M,DCC>XCVI.

>

^^-ipC O N T E N T S.

Parifia. J^tfuMom in 1755, \InlJ^S,TMereafi.\ Dee.^ P,

f.

% S 4 S- 6

7 8.

9

. Kirkaldy, Scone,

Garennnocky Alv:.,

Duplin and Aberdalgie, C rmnnnock*, Carftairs, Snizort, ^, Wcft-Calder,

10, Eaft-wood,

11. Rufyth, j%. Ktppen«

13. Dadingfton,

14. St NinianSy

15. Kild rummy,

16 Borrok/^'ftownneft,

17. Fo(faway and Tolltcboley

si. Trinity-Ga(k,

19. "Perth,

jK>. Kinnool,

ai. Sfrathblane,

ai. JLcnch ars,

43. Mar^'-kirk,

34. Botriplinw.

2196

a673

377

_

I

889

144»

553

-

65

956

830

- -

126

90

436

6ia

176

-

x»5

3ao

52J

ao3

-

X49

471

570

99

- i'^!

845

9»4

79

- 176

1627

1808

181

- i8f

•1194

1189

- -

5190

II4»

2642

X500

• 199

ti395

4450

1055

- 214

1799

1777

» .

aa3i7

989

910

- -

79;35«

6491

7079

588

- \3^5

56*

568

6

lb;

2668

3178

5X0

1765

1505

- -

»6o'445

913

795

- -

118482

9019

19,371

10,852

- I489

1163

1465

302

- J540

797

630

I77;563

1691

1630

- -

71*585

ti»85

1481

196

-

608

S 953

630

- -

3*3

644

41766

57163

16677

2X8X

41766

ii8t

Iflcreafe in x 7 90-5 X5496 X5496

APPENDIX.

35. Colrefs, (Vol. X. p. I3X.) Religious Houfes, fl6. Kirkaldy.— -Trial for Witchcraft,

649

653:

* There is a mifhke in the ^ote, p. X95, with regard to the numbers in X755, and if the drcumdance there mentioned is conlidered, there is reafoa to fuppofe, rather an increaic, than a diminution in the number of this pirifh.

f The numbers in 1755, are dated p. 264, at 1346, 49 below what was then the real number.

f The numbers of I755» are ftated p. 6r8, at 5 below the number giyen by Dt Webfter.

§ There was probably an inaccuracy in Dr Web(ler*s number of this pa- riih. Vide V> 646, and the diminution cannot be fuppofed to hare greatly exceeded 130,

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

OF

SCOTLAND.

PART XVIII.

NUMBER. I. PARISH OF KIRKALDY.

(county of TIFa.) By the Rev. Mr Thoma? Fleming.

_ I II - - ■! - - - - ■ " "-^l T -

Name, Situation*

npHE tovM of Kirkaldy has been called by its prcfcnt* ^ naose, as far back as there are any records of it. It is fuppofed to have derived its name from the Culdeesj (the KeU del as they are often called in the Old Chartfrs)i' of whom it is faid to have been a ceil ^. It is fituated ia the ccanty of VoL.XVJJ|r A Fife*

• Thb is Sir Robert Sibbaid*! dertration, in his biftory of Fife. The wor4 mighty with the ufual licence of etymology, be derived from the Oaelk ; ta which Unguagey a great proportion of the names of places in the ueight)Our* hood, and indeed through the whole df Fife, may nnqueftionably be traced. All names of pbces beginning tiith Bal, Col, or.OU, I>al,.I>aim,. Dm, Inch^ ■ Ihnejf Anchtar, Kil, Kin, Glen, Mon, and Strath, are of Gaelic origin. Thofc beginning with Aber, and Pit, are fuppofed to be Piftifh names, and do not occur beyottd the territory which the Pi^ are thought to haTC* inhabited.

ft Statijlical Account

Fife, on the Frith of Forth, about lo miles north of Edin* l^urgh. It is the feat of one of the four prefbyteries whicl^ compofc the provincial fynod of Fife*; and, alternately ^ith Cupar, the ordinary feat of the iynod.

ExtenU'TTht parijb of Eirkaldy, fo called from the town^ is a kind of irregular oblong, extending from S. £. to N. W. between 2 and 3 miles, and from N. E« to S. W. about one mile. It is bounded on the S. £. by the Frith, on the N« £^ by the pariih of Dyfart, on the N. yf. by the pariflies of Dy- fart and AchterderraPi and on the % W. by the pariih of Abbotihall.

This laft parifli, ivith the exception of 3 farm» which be- longed to ]^iiighorn f, was originally a part of the parfonage pf ILirkaldy. In 1649, ^^^ prelbytery on an application from the heritors, found that a new kirk fhould be ere£led in the pariih of Kirkaldy, for the accommodation pf the pariihion« crs; and recommended to the Commilfioners of the Parliament ' for furrcnders and tythes, to carry the CTeQion into eifcA* The next year, the new pariih of Kirkaldy, fince called Abbot-; jhall was ^reded \ and the pariih of Kirkaldy proper, has fron^ that time been confined nearly to the burgh* the burgh acres^ an4 (he common land and moor ; comprehending, ii; all, an f xtent pf about 870 Scotch acres,

AfpeEt of the town. — The town of Kirkaldy is iituated at the foot of a bank, on the fea-ihorc, along which it ftretches the whole breadth of the parifli. It is properly but one long (tr^et, with a few lanes of fmall extent opening on each iide pf It. The principal part of the ilreet appears to have been priginally^ wider than it is now, many of the houfes on botl^

iide^

* The other three are, Cupar, St. Andrews, and Dil|iferinli2)|^« ■J Eailcr and Wetter Touchs, and Weft ^ogic.

tf Kirkaldy. 3

fidet of it (hewing internal twdinee '^j that they have at fome time or other been extended beyond their iirft limits, and that the property of indiyiduaU has been Enlarged by encroach- ments on that of the community. At prefent, the ftrect is narrow^ in fome places inconveniently fo \ winding and ir- regular $ deformed by ^e frequent projefiion of contiguous houfes and ftairs ; and as the traveller daily feels, wretchedly paved f • The houfes are in general mean, aukwardly placed with their ends to the ftreets, ac^ conftrufted without any regard to order or uniformity. Of late, however, a better ftile of building has begun to be introduced ; and difRsr^* ent fpecimens have been given of an improving tafte in archi* tenure.

PuUic Buildings^ Town-houff. — '^e only public buildings worthy of notice are, the town-houfe and the church. The town-houfe, which was rebuilt in 1678, ftands near the mid* die of tlie town, and contains the ball in which the magif* traces and council aflemble for condufting the ordinary buG* nefs of the burgh. Here too the bailUes hold a weekly court for judging in queftions between the burgefles ; an4 :the jufticesof the peace have occafional meetings for deter- ipining queftions of revenue, and difcufling petty caufes that are brought before them from the furrounding diilriA* Over the town-houfe is the prifon, with feparate apaitments for debtors and criminals ; and under it the guard-houfe, the meaUmarkct, and the public weigh- houfe. The whole forms a plain building of hewn-ftone, ornamented with a tower and

A z fpire*

• * Strong beams ran along the roofs of tbe rooms, to fnpport the place of the front wall, which has been bronght forward to incrcafe ^e width of the - houfes.

. t The flatnte Uboor of the town is now converted, aB4 the produce left t^ accttmalate for new. pavbg the ftreets. Ruinous houfes are in fome ioftaace^ v^uilding at fn^h a dilbocc from the ftreet, m to leave U #f a deceot width*

4 Statical Accmnt

fpire. The tomtt contains the town-clock and bdl| and fenrcs as a rcpoGtory for the archives of the burgh.

The Church. — The church ftands on an elevated fituatton, on the top of the bank, which rifes immediateljr behind the- town. It is a large unfliapely pile^ that feems to have beea reared at different times, to fuit 'the growing population of the parifli, and in die conftru£lion of which convenience has been more coofulted than unity of defign or beauty. The nave or body of the church, is in the antient Gothic, or rather the Norman (tile of architedure ; without buttrefles $ with low femicircular arches, fupported by (hort thick columns, and having aifles behind them. The choir is fitted up iacom- mon with the nave for the reception of the parilhioners ; and a large wing has been added for their farther accommodation. Clofc to one end of the church ftands the fteeple \ which in its original form was a plain, and not unhandfome fquare tower with a cornice, above which it was covered with a roof. But it has been raifcd beyond its original height, by the addition of a fmaller, and a very difpropof tionate tower, ter- minating in a pyramid.

The Sands. "^On the one fide of the town, the fea is feparated from it by a beach of firm and level fand ; on which the in- habitants have always, excepting jit the height of the tide, a fafe and agreeable walk ; and by which the traveller may generally avoid the uneafy jolting of a long and rugged pave* ment. As the fand continues firm and fmooth, and the ground ihelves gradually for a great way into the fea, this place is pe- culiarly favourable for fea bathing ; for which purpofe there has been for fome years an incrcafing refort to it, during the months of fumm^r and harveft.

Jj^ea

jIfpeS ^he Pflf^A.-^-^-^On the other &de of die to^trn, the country immediately joilM it, and rifes by t gentle but Taried aCcenti almoft to the oppofite extremity of the parifli. Taking the pariih by itfelf, the face of it prefents little to the view that claims particnlar notice. In the yicinity of thtt town, ivhere the foil is light and dry, and very fufceptible of coltiration, the fields are in general inclofedi and in a reg«« lar conrfe of tillage ( and exhibit «i appearance in no fmaM degree pleaGng.— —^-Farther back, the ground has been more recently brongltf into culture \ and the foil appears to be left kindly in its nature, and lefs fufceptible of improve- ment* Bat an extenfive proprietor, Mr Ofwald of Donni- keer, having now built a manfion houfe on a fine command- ing fitcj in the center of the grounds which are at prefenC the Jeaft cultivated*, the plan of cultivation and of ornament which he {las begun, vrill foon improve the appearance of that part of the pariflK In the profped of building, that gentleman Ibmetime ago inclofed and planted a romantic val* ley, which ftretches fifom the eaft end of Kirkaldy towards die fite of his new houfe. This valley is now beginning to be clofely and beautifally wooded : Fanciful walks, partly of turf, and partly of gravel, are cut through it in different di* re£lions. To theft the more refpe£lable inhabitants of the town are indulged with accefs ; and enjoy in this refpeA an advantage which the vicinity of few towns can fumiih.

Relative SifUation^^^li this pariih, taken by itfeif, affords but little to admire in its geneial appearance, the defed^ is abundantly fiipplied by its relative fituation. — Commanding from different points, a full profpefl of the adjacent coun- try, from Dyfart on the eaft, to the green-toped hills of

Glafsmount

* The Btt^jb moor.

6 Statifiical Account

GUfim^unt on the weft ; and the eye embracing within thai range the profperous town of Path-head^ with the oncerojai caftle of RaTenflieugh % feated on a cliff overhanging the fea ; the town and harbour of Kirkaldy ; the induftrious town of linktown, with the modem church of Abbotfliall^ the high-placed manfion^ the pi£);urefque grounds, and the eztenfive improvements, of Mr Fergufon of Raith ;— and having extended before it the Frith of Fordi, flurted hj the coaft of Lothian from Edinbuijgh to North-Berwick^ diverfified by the iflands of Inch-Keitb, Bofs, and May, and enlivened by a conftant fucceflion of flups of all bntdens^ pafling and repafliog on their deftined voyages:— -The parifli of Kirkaldy thus fituated, forms part of a fccae, in which the beauties of external nature, and interefting difplays of the operation of mind, are in no ordinary degree united.

Air dtidClimati.^Atctnding tJ»W. from the head of the bay which is called by its name, this parilh lies much expofed to the eafterly winds. Thefe, efpecially during the latter part of fpring, blow frequently, and bring up from the feat a thick difagreeable haze, that renders the air moift and pier- cingly cold. But as the wefterly winds prevail, during at leaft two thirds of the year, the air is upon the whole dry» kindly and wholefome.

Di/ea/ej.---lt may be owing partly to this caufc, that there are few difeafes which can properly be faid to prevail hcrei and that even thefe few are feldom marked with any peculiar fymptoms of violence. The moft prevalent difeafe is the chronic rheumatifm, which chiefly affefls the aged, and even thefe chiefiy among thofe clafies which are expofed to hard

labour

* Or Ravenfcraig.-**-^ee account of Dyfart.

tf Kirkaldy. 7

libter in the open air. A Tpecies of fever with nenrons fymp«

tomSy Sat of no diftind or regular type, has fome years been

Itequenti particularly in the beginning of winter, and in fpring.

ChiMrenhave been more fubje£l to it than adults. Children are

frequently and fatally afie&ed by the difeafe which is called the

croup. Inftances of confumptions now and then occut, chiefly

in youag females. The paiff, which not long ago was fo tare^

as to have been vulgarly accounted a fpecial vifitation ^f God,

is now by no means uncommon; Scrophulous taints are hot

much known here \ and the meafles, fmalUpox, andjother

epidemical eruptiyes are obferved to be ufually milder than '

cren in the neighbouring pariflies. Innoculation for the

fmairpox ispradifed with the happieft effeA. The religious

fcruples, which long prevented the general ufe of (his falutary

invention, are every day diminifliing ; the body of the pec*

jile yielding to the impreflion of that convincing atteftation in

favour of i^ which Divine Psoridence has given in its fignal

fttccefs.

Longevify.'-^The inhabitants in general are healthy ; and many of them attain a good old age* It is no unfatisfying proof of this, that in four years precceding 17031 there lived in the parifh 47 perfons who reached the age of 80, the full half of which number were alive at one time \ that in five years preceding 1791, four inftances occurred in which the marriage relation had fubfifted above half a century ; and that on an average of 14 years preceding 1788, the annual burials were but as i to 59 of the population.

P<^a/tf//V/i.— On the firft day of January 1790, there were in the town of Slirkaldy 646 families, containing 2607 fouls ( in the country parifh, 15 families, containing 66 fouls; in

the

-'^

Stai^kal Accwfd

thewlide pari(h» 66i families^ containbg 2673 fouls*: of whom 521 were under, and 2152 above, 8 years of age.^- 'Of diofe who were above that age, 908 were males, and 1244 i^males. The proportion of fouls to a family was 4^ in the town, 4| in the country, 4^ in the whole pariOi.

Dhi/lon ofi tie hhahitants in i790.-«>The inhabitants, reck- oning thofe only who had families, or who did buGnefs on their own account, were in general divided in the fdlowing nanner :

Saddler i

Candlemaker i

Sellers of done ware 4

Keepers of inns and licen- fed houfes for ale an4

IVoprietors refiding 7

■ non -refiding • 4 Mtnifters 2

Preachers 2

Merchants, traders, and

ihopkeepers 36

Seafaring men 34

Fanners, who have no other

employment 2

Medtdal men 5

Officers who have ferved in

the navy 5

Da who have ferved in the

army 4

Officers of the cuAoms and

fait office 1 1

Officers of excife 3

Writers 4

BookfcUer i

Schoolmaftcrs 3

* The retimi to Dr. WeWler in 1755 made the p«pvlation %%^^ t Belidct there are 3 corporate bodies which have property^

fpirits

3«

Brewers

2

Smiths and founders

10

Watchmakers

Mafons and plafterers

19

Houfe carpenter^

25

Ship carpenters

Coopers

Painters

Weavers

5^

Stocking weavers

Dyers

Hecklers

9

Tanners and curriers

8

Shoemakers

'3

Taylors

of I^laUy.

Tuion 10

Male farm ferf ants 14

Sailers 2

Female fio. 3

Glover i

Female teachers $

Batchers 4

Mantua-^nukers 4

Bakers i 2

Milleners 4

Barbers 4

MidmTes 3

Coik*cutters 2

Wi4ows with families 73

Gardeners 7

Single hottfeholders, chiefly

Carters, many of whom oc-

females 70

cupy a few acres of land 30

Young perfons of both fexes

Carriers 3

at fchool, about %io

Land labourers and hired

fenrants with families 6 f

Merchants clerks, not ap-

Male doraeftic fervants 8

prentices 9

Female do. 217

In this table, the diftinfiions are not always precife. The clafs of merchants includes the principal manufacturers. Some of the (hop-keepers have other employments, and are introduced under other names. The farmers inferced arei thofe only who have no other fpecific character*

Stale rfHu^andry. — Of thofe who are more or lefs engaged in hufbandry, the whole number, including 5 proprietors, is 25. Many of thefe occupy but a few acres, whidi they cnkivate for the fake of accommodation more than of gain. This circumftance is not favourable to good hufbandry. The fpring of intereft is too (lightly touched, to produce that regu* lar exertion which is necefiary to fuccefs*

Some other objc£l engages the firft care ; and the few acres are negleded. At any rate, if they anfwer the pur« pofe of convenience for vrbtch they are held, the melioration of them is little attended to. This, however, is not always the cafe. Some who occupy fmall portions of land, have been

Vol. XVIII. B at

10 Staiiftical Account

at pains to improve them. And the land which is poflefled in any confiderable quantity^ is in general cultivated with at- tention and fttccefs.

Means of cultivathft.-mJTht means of cultivation arc here obtained with little difficulty. The flables and ftreets of the town afford a regular fupply of manure ; but what is collcdled from the ftreets is lefi^ valuable, on account of a mixture of fand which it receives from the houfes of the ordinary clafs of inhabitants, whpfe floors are frequently covered, with it.*^ — Lime is to be had at a (hort diftance, and at a moderate cx' pence ; but it has hitherto been fparingly ufed, particularly on the lands lying neareft to the town ; in the idea that the foil is too light and warm to permit it to' be ufed with fafety. Sea-weeds furnifh an occaGonal acccf&on of valuable mainire, but in a quantity that bears xio proportion tp the extenfive de» mand for it.

Improvemenis in HuJbandrj.^^T]xt mode of culture has of late undergone fome important alterations. The tillap is improved j to which drilling and hoeing, now much ufed in all crops, have not a little contributed. Green crops are in- troduced ; and the proportion of land employed in them ii every year increafnig. The rotation of crops is better regu- lated ; the ahematc fuccelTion of culmiferous and leguminous crops being pretty generally attended to. Tlie imfUments of hufbandry are improved ; particularly the plough. Of this valuable inflrumcnt,. two kinds are employed ; the common Scotch plough, which begins to be better con{lru£^ed than formerly, and the chain-plough introduced by Small of Black« adder- mount. The former is ftill the moft prevalent} for of 04 ploughs ufed in the parifli, 17 are of this kind, and 7 of the other. The ploughs are all drawn by horfcs, generally

t,W9

' of Kirkdldy. 1 1

twoineachy guided by the ploughman. Oxen, though e- qually adapted to the purpofes of hufbandry when managed with {kill, though lefs expenflve in the purchafe and the maintenance, though equally, if not more durable, and though ▼aftly more valuable, when unfit for work, are here in total difufe; and nearly fo in the whole furroonding dif- tiia.

Cattle Mnd' Carriages .-^Tht number of horfes employed in the parifh ia 139 ; of which 94 are kept for work, 2B for the faddle, and 17 for carriages. 1 he carriages are 9 in num- ber *, 2 coaches and 7 poft-chaifes. Of thcfe a coach, and 5 chaifes arc kept for hire. The number of carts is 73. The number of milk-cows is 98. Some individuals have been at pafns to improTC their breed of cows, and with good fuccefs. But cows are here kept lefs for breeding than for their milky which is fold in the town with great advantage. They are commonly fed in the houfe ; the land near the town being too valuable to permit much of it to be employed in pafture.

Rent.'-^Tht rent of land, fituated near the town, runs from three to four pounds the jicre ; and decreafc.*, with the dif- tance, down to half a guinea. As the greater part of th« parifh is cultivated by proprietors, the rent of the whole cannot be certainly known : but it is computed at L. 125» fterling ; which is to L. 1320 Scots, the valued rent, nearif as 1 1 ; to I* There is no map of the parifh ; but mod of it has been furveycd: and the whole, excluGve of the ground covered by the towiij extends to about 830 acres. Of thefe about 19

B 2 acres

* SiMe the ftbcfve was irrttteii« the aumhtr of cairiiget has dim'uuihed tw»

u Stati/iical Account

acres are mofS) ii wade-land and roads^ 130 planted, 327 fown out in pafture^ 32 garden groundj and 270 in tiU lagc.

Crops^ and ttmes of Sowing and Reafiing.^^The crops ufadly talfed oil the land in tillage are; wheats fdwn from the begm- ning of Oftober to the end of November, and reaped from the rath to the end of Auguft %-^barley^ fown from the ift to the 20th May, and reaped from the middle of Aoguft to the beginning of Oftober ; — ^ats^ fown from the aoth March to the aoth April, and reaped from the 20th Auguft to the be- ginning of Ofkober; — keans^ fown firom the loth to the 5loth March, and reaped ifrom the 12th September to the 1 2di of 0£kober i-^tatoes^ planted from the aoth April to the be- ginning of May, and dug up from the 12th to the end of Oc« tober 'i^turmpSj commonly fown aboutthe aoth June; — clover ^ ajsd generally a fmall proportion of rye-grafs with it, fown from the aoth April to the end of May ; and always fown , with grain, which is fometimes wheat, fometimes oats, but ofteneft barley.

Produce and Fa/ue* ^^^^Tht following table will (hew the proportions in which thefe federal crops were raifed in 1 7^, with the value of the produce, eftimated on the average of the fcvcn preceeding years.

TABLE

tf Kirialdji.

13

TABLE of Cito^s in 1792.

Cropi.

Wheat, Barlejy Oatj,

Potatoes^

Turnip,

Clover,

Aott Qa- BoUs pro-|Av^rige der each dnccd per valve of crop. acre. |thc boll.

«3

72

54 24 35 ^5 47

10

9 8

9 50

L.s.d. I I 015 o 12 0126 o 50

L.8.d. 10 10

416

6

1210 8 8

327 Acres of fown grafs ufed in paftore at L. acre*

Many of the inhabirantshare fmall gardens adjoin- ing to their houfes. Thefe may amount together to 20 acres, and the annual produce of them may

I be eftimated at L. 10 per acre ; the whole, ^ There are 12 acres of garden ground cultivated for iaie, the produce of which may be eftimated at L. 20 per acre.

TocalgroTs value of tfaeannual produce of the ground 2497

From which deduce •}■ for the expence of feed, la* ? ^

hour, and manures, - - C "3

Free produce, including the rent.

1560 15

jifimro/r.— Befides die produce of the furface of the ground, this parifli yields frec»ftone, iron- ftone, and pit-coal. At prefent, however, there is little or noincreafe of value de- rived from thefe fources. Thcfree^Jlone is dug merely for the ufe of the parifli *• The ironjlone is found in the coal-pits, and the working of it depends on that of the coal. Diflerent

feams

* The parilh does not faniiih all the Ames that are employed in nilding. The bed honies are built from the quarries of Bruntifland, Loog-Annet^ or Caletfe;-— which laft, though but lately opened, promifes, oa account of its ibpericir ttxturey colour^ and iblidity, to bo ia much requeft.

14 Siati/lfcal Account

ffams of coal from 2 J to 4t feet thick were formerly \nrotight ; but they have for fometime been exhaufted above the draining level. They continue, and are fuppofed to be more valu- able, below the level ; but the expence of machinery for draining, has hitherto prevented the working of them.— At prefent, the inhabitants are fupplted from the coaleries ofDy- fart, belonging to Sir James St.* Clair Erflcine, or of Cluny, belonging to Mr Fcrgufcn of Raith. The former is dii!ant from Klirkaldy about 2 miles, the latter about 4. At the for- mer, 2 meteSf about gi cwt of fmall coah or chenus^ the* kind generally ufed for home confumption, are fold for 2s. id. and the expence of carriage to Kirkaldy is is : At the latter, 3 hadjt weighing about 9I cwt. are fold at rs. 6d. and the ex« pence of carriage is 2s. There is a depot of Cluny coals kept at Kirkaldy for exportation; from which about 600 tons have been annually (hipped during the laft 5 or 6 years, partly for Hamburgh, but chiefly for Middleburg, where the Cl^njJpUnt is fAid to have the preference of every other fpecies of Scotch coal. As there is now a turnpike road from Cluny to thit place, it is probable that the quantity of coal exported from ic will incrcafc. , •

Tf/r////i^/«— Turnpikes begin to be generally introduced in this part of the county. The erection of tolUbars, and the imp<^tion of the highcft toll- which the law permits to be cxafkcd before a foot of road was made, excited at firft, a pre- judice againft them. But in proportion as the roads' have been put in repair, the prejudice has abated : And there can be no doubts that if Ihe intereft of the public is fufficiently confulted in fixing tlie courfes of the roads, the introdudlion ef turnpikes will^ on the whole, be bentiicial *•

Hiftiry

^ By an a£l of Parliament, for making and repairing roads in the county ^ Fife, the truftcci appointed t» caiiy it into execution arc impewered» inter

aii»^»

o/Kirkakfy. 1$

Hjfiorj of the Burgb.'^lt U probable that the local advan« tagcs of ricinity to {uel> to land capable of producing grain, and above all to the fea^ fo favourable to fubfiftcnce and fo neceflary to commerce, brought men at firft to fettle at this place. It is not known, however^ at what particular time the town was built ; nor are there any traces of its hidory be* fore it became one of the regality burghs of the lordlhip of Dunfermling. It was mortified A. D. 1334> by David II. to

the

alxi, ** toiPidea the roads to any breadth they (hall think proper, not exceed. ^ iBg 40 feet ; and for that purpoie to pull down and demolifh any houfe or ** baildtog, as well wiiBim royal burghs as without the (ame ; paying fuch da« *■ mages to the owners or occupiers, as the /aid trvfiee* ihall judge reafonabie."

Thefc powers are complained of : xft, As unprecedented and unknown in the other counties : ad. As trenching on the chartered rights of royal burghs ; the internal goremment of which is, by charters ratified by parliament, vefted in thtit own proper magiftrates : 3d, As afTe^lii^ the fecurity of private pro- perty, which is thus left, in certain circumflances, to be feized without the co'nfent of the owner, and without any other compeniation to him, than -what the very perfons who are to feize.on it judgt reafonabU. It is true, thert lies an appeal on the value of the property to the Juftices of the Peace in their general feflions. But as the Juftices are truftees, and in point of in- Anence, the principal truflets under the road a£t, tht appeal is nearly from mu defcription to another defcription of the fame peribns. If the public con« Ttniencc at times require that the property of in/lividuals ihould be facrificed toit\ juftice finrely requires that thofe, whofe property is affe^led, Ihould be fhliy indemnified^ and that too in the way in which they are mod likely to be fatisfied that the indemnification is adequate,— ^-the rerdi^ of a jury.

The conCderation of the efTcA which the powers conveyed by the a^ allud' cd to might, if exercifed to their full extent, produce on Kirkaldy, has given rife to thefe reflections. K'^rkaldy is properly but one long flreet, through which the great county road at prefent paiTes. As the greater part of this Oreet is onder 40 feet broad, the tmftees have it in their power, if tbeyfiall think pro^ poTy to bring it to the fuU flatutpry breadth, at the expcnce of half a. mile of demoliihed houfes ; the owners of which would be obliged to red iatisficd with what damages the trnftees, or iji the laft refort, the juAices, Ihould think rea^ ibiiable.

|6 StatyUc^ Acauni

the abbots of Dunfermlkig fuocefiivdy ; in whofe poflf flk>i» . it continued till A* D. i4fO| when the tiommeoditor and conrent, by indentures made with the baillies and comma- nity of Kirkaldy, difponed to them and their fuccefibrs for €¥er, the burgh and harbour, burgh acres, the fmall cuftoms, common pafture in the moor, courts^ &c.

Chartered Privileges. It was foon after created into

a royal burgh, with the cuftomary privileges: And thefe were fpccifically ratified by a charter of confirma- tion granled by Charles I. in 1644 ; and the burgh, for gopd^ mnd gratuitpui Jervicf done by it, ereAed de novo into a free royal burgh and fu» port» and pew and larger immimities granted it. Among its privileges were enumerated, the powers exprefsly given to the baiUies, counfellors and com- munity, of clewing and conftituting annual magiftrates for the afllPJ^^r^tiop of juftice 9nd the government of the burgh i of uplifting icuftoms ^d ?ipplyipg them to the public good j of holding courts ; of £e|zing and incarcerating, and punifliing delinquents ; with which were conjoined various other privi- leges exprefied in the barbarous language, and fame of them cpnceived ^n the barbarous fpirit of the times ^ fuch as herezcl49i bludewits, merchetae mi^lierum, fork, fofs, fok» iik^ thoill, thame, wraick, ve^t, wetb> wair, vesyfoAi in- fangtheif, outfangtheif, pit and gallows, &c. *•

Though there be no authentic record of the ftate of Kir- kaldy, at the time ic yras disjoined from thelordflbip of Dun- fermling, or firft ereflcd unto a royal burgh, it may be warraotably fuppofed, Ant befpre either of thefe events could hitppen, the place mud have attained to ibme importance* Previous to the union of Scotland with England, its commerce

and

* Charter of confirButi«n.

1^ Kirkaldf. fy

tnd narigation were in a great meafitre confined to tlie towns which hj on both fides of the Frith of Forth. Thefe had early applied themfelves to the bufinefs of fifliing *, which their favoiirable ficuatton enabled them to profitcute with vi- gour and -fuccefs. And fo diftingui(hed were thofe of them efpeciallj which lay on the north fide of the frith, that vrhen James VI. in 1602 planted a colony in Lewis, to introduce the fifliing trade among the Weftern iflands, the colony was drawn from the coafts of Fife f . The towns on the Frith of Forth too had almoft the ezclufive pofleflion of the trade with the Low Countries, at that time the only branch of commerce of any importance, and were carriers for nearly the whole of the northern part of the United Kingdom.

State in i644,— — Of the advantages derived from both the/e branches of commerce, Kirkaldy appears to have enjoy-» ed a prindpal fliare. Tradition relates that, when Charles L erefled it anew into a royal burgh in 1644, 1' ^^^ ^^ bun« dred fail of (hips belonging to it. And the tradition is fup- portedt by an authentic account, preferved among the records of the burgh, of loflesfuftained betwixt that time and the Refto- ration. From this account, in which the mader's name, and the feparate value of each ihip are particularly fpecified, it appears, that 94 (hips belonging (o this port, were during that period either loft at fea, or taken by the enemy.

There are other circumftances too, which ferve .to (hew Vol. XVm. C that,

* As early «• the nloth ceotary, thfi inhabitant of the Netherlands rcibr- ted to the coafts of Scotland, to pnrchafc faltcd fiih from the natives ; of whoii they learned the trade, which the Dutch have rincepurTucd with fo muchna* tkmal advantage.— —Andcrfon's Hiftory of Commercci

t Robertfon*s HiAory of Scotknd.

XA Stati/lical Account

Ihst^ danng a confidcraWc part of the lafl; century, Kirkaldf was in a very flourifliing ftate.

' JSarly Population. ^'-^^i. The population of the parifti was equal, or moft probably fuperior, to what it is at prefent. During a period of 14 years, commencing with 1616, the yearly average of regiftercd births was lai j which would make the population, computing it as 26 to 1 of the births, to have been 3146. ' For fomc tin>e after, the numbers appear to have increafed rapidly. In 1643 the accommoda- tioo of the parifli required a new wing to be added to the church ; and in 1650 it was found neceflary to make a new ereflion *. The annual average of births, for 10 years im- mediately preceding the date of that erc£lion, was i74tV« which made the whole population about 454<» ; and for the ftme (|>ace of time immediately following it, 115; which made the population 1990. From this ftatement it appears, that, fuppoiing the whole inhabitants to be as 26 to t of the births, the parifh of KirkaWy was more populous, for fome time aftef it% firft reduflion to its prefent limits, than it is at this day. And were the eftimate to be made by the proportion which the , prefent number of inhabitants a£iually bears to the annual births, the difference in the population of .that time would appear . to have been very confider-

a. The

-> • fieepageid.

f The above rale for oompntipg the population oft ptrUh or <ll(bkl froai the biith«,'» fuggeftcd in '* Queriei for the pvrpofe of elucidating the Natu* ** ral Hiftory and Political State of Scotland, circulated by Sir John Sinclair.'* In this pariOi, however, the computation fails Ihort of the re^l proportion. The number of regiftercd births in 179'- was 60 ; and on an average of the ao preceding years, 50* But, as the regiftration of births has for fome time

paft

of Kirkaldy. i^

1. The contributions which v«re then made for purees of charity, and ftill more for the fupport of the ftate, {hew the place to have been refpeflable. In 1 622, when the Gene- va! Affirmbly of the proteftant churches in France deputed Bafnage to the King of Great Britain^ to foQicit aid foi^refifting the opprei&on of Lewis XIIL the town and parifli of Ktrkil- dy contributed, according to thf gudevfill and pertnyjfQn tf tbfg J^f^g* 2 j>eciiQiary aid of 1030 jmerks *• - During a period of 1.2 years, from 1634 to 1645, at which time money was fo valuable as to be^r intereft at 9 per cent* the weekly cpi^o-. tions at the church doors were gTeat<;r than they are at |M^e* fent \ the average amounting to L. ^3 : 1 oi while that of the fame number of years preceding 17J11 does act exceed I«. 63 9s. 4d.

FuUu jfjffeJfmentu^'-^'-^lfi sill public aflcflh^nlSj the tQWS was rated as the fixth burgh, and afi^Sed in |hq pfopomou.pf 1 to 40 of the whole Xupplics. Icyied from the burghs of ScqV land f. For fev(ira| years before and .after l^s^, tb^^mpotlv- ly afleffinents laid on it, for (he.'maifitenancc 0^ troop% qxce^d*

C 2 . I . ^d

paft been much negle^ed, let one half <nore be addecl for births not etitertd, and the whole annual births will, on' an average oflo years, be 75 ; which, coffipa^ed ivith the a^hml numbers, is nearly in iHe propot¥idn,or k <tb 3^. In- timated by this proportion, the population from 1650 to x66o wonl^evntcd 4000. \

There is no public regifter of burials. But by a very exa£t lid kept by the griYe-digget: for his own ufe, it appears, that the average of boriais for 14 ft^st preceding 17S8 was 44 f-; which k'to tl^e papulation fltariy «• i to 59. -

* Baibtgc's receipt is engroded in the minutes of the kirk-feffion^.

I t See the a^s of the Cooveotidn of Edates from 1665 to 167S, and fubf^-

quent a£U of Parliament. The burghs which were rated higher were £di^

burgh, Dundee, Aberdeen, Glafgow, Perth, and at fir(l St. Andrews; but

the aiTefiment of that burgh gradually fell to a fourth part of that of Kirkal<ly«

20 Siatijfical Acciunt

cd at an areragc L. 400*. In 1667, the Conrcntion of Eftates affcficd it, for defraying the expence of the war which Charles II. had declared againft the Dutch» in the fnm of li. 228 monthly for 12 months ; oyer and above its propor^ elon of the fnpp^y of L. 480,000 which the Parliament had granted to the King for life, and of the further fuppljr of L. 133,000, which a former Convention had granted him for 5 years. And the fame fum of L. 228, it continued to pny monthly, fomctimes for 5 months, fometlmes for 8 months in the year, as the exigencies of the ftatc re- quired.

. EfeBs of the Civil W^tfr.— About the middle of the cen- tury, indeed, the profperity of this place received a confide- rable check. The quarrel of the Parliament of England with Charles I. having in 1 643 extended to Scotland, the inhabi- tants of Kirkaldy had taken a decided part in it.—— IVreling that love of independence which the commercial fpirtt gene* rates, and intcreftcd in having the fruits of their induftry fecured from the gripe of arbitrary power, they had early ct pofufed the fide of liberty : And notwithftanding the conci* liating excrcife of the royal prerogative, in renewing and ex- tending their charier in 1644, they had entered warmly into the views of the Parliament. The Solemn League and Cove- nant was^ publicly fworn, and fubfcrtbed. And numbers, tt^ pecially of the feamen, joined the army of the Covenanters^ and were prefent at the battle of Kilfyth f , in the event of

which

* Collectors lifts ftrU ciiftiDg.

f A. D. 2645. '^^c records of the kirk-fellion about this time, contain nany faOs, that fcrve to ftiew how deeply this parifli was interefted in the canfe of the Parliament. Public prayers were oflTcred up for its fucccfs ; and CTery adTaatage gained to it was celebrated with thankrgiving. The families

of

•f KirkAUy. 21

If bich this place fufiered the lofs of many of its xnott aftive itihabitanes.-— «-That unhaf^y event waa followed by a fuc- eeffion of mtsfortunea. No lefs than 58 ibips» bclonghig • to thk porl, were either taken or loft at fea, before the Engliih inirafioa in i6$o ; and from that time to the Reftoration, 36 ftiips oaore were taken^ many of them with cargoes i making in all (a$ ftated in page i lu) 94 (hips, the value of which h afceftatned, by a parttc^lav appretiation contained in the ac- count of lofles already mentioned, to have amounted to the Aim of L. 53)791 fterltng» A confiderable number of thefe Alps were taken in the harbour of Dundee, when that town was ftormed and facked by General Monk j at which timet too, effe^is belonging to the inhabitants of Kirkaidy which had been depofited at Dundee as a place of fecurity, were tamed away or deftroyed, to the value nearly of L. 5000 *• Befides this, A'flkrent individuals fuftred the lofs of money, which they bad lent to the Committee of Eftates fbrtbe pub- Kcfervice, but which on the eftabliftuhent of the Confimoki- wealth it was impoflible to recover f • tn confequence of thefd beary lofles^ aAd the ftiU greater lofs of 480 men killod in

At

•f tbofe ysho had joioed the army, were many of them alfiiled by poblic cott* tribatioos. Deferters were cited before the kirk-fefHon : there is an infUnce of nine of them being called before it in one day, and ordained to return to their colours under pain of excommunication. A perfon was fummoried be- fore the pffelbytay, lor talitHg the cauft of Gcd^ifettdy in boMd^ the Ik^l** caufr^ M he tntetd. Diierent psribifs' who» d«ring the fuccefs of Montrofe at Perth, had been induced to declare for the King, appeared before the kirk-rcAjoo, and profelTed their forrow for their conduA. After the battle of Kilfyth, ihe date of which, and of Philiphaugh, is marked on the margin of the record, horfes for tranfporting the wounded, neceflaries, medicines, and attendance, were at different times paid for out of tlie pariih funds.

* A particular account ofhs lofs is prefervcd among the burgh records.

t Both thefe £a£ts are annexed to the account of iolles at Tea.

11 Statiftical Account «

the courfe of the war *, the commerce and (hippkig of Ktrkal- dy were deeply affe£l;ed. And through the fubfequent interr ruption of the trade with Holland, during three fucceffivc wars with that country, aided perhaps by the unfriendly in- fluence of an arbitrary government on the general fpirit and exertions of the people, the place continued to languiOi during the ufurpition of Cromwell, and the defpotic reigns of Charles II. and his fucceflbr James* In 1673 ^^^ number of ihips belonging to it had fallen to 25. And in 1682 its dif*' trefs was fo great, that application was made to the Convention of burghs to confider its poverty, and to take methods for caCng it as to its public burdens. But the burgh having fallen under the difpleafure of the Court, on account of thi9 oppofition given by its reprefentative to the arbitrary meafares which were then carrying on, the inhabitants were not only denied relief, but* further burdened by an addition q( 2000 merks to their annual aflefioient f • . The applicatioa to the Convention was however renewed in 1687, when a vi- fitation of the burgh was ordered. A committee appointed for that purpofe met at Kirkaldy the following year; and,. on the evidence of the books and declarations both of the ma-> giftrates of the burgh and the ofEcers of the cuftoms, repor* ted, inter alia, to the Convention, ** that the cuftoms payable ^* to his Majefty were not the half of what they had been fome *^ years before : that this was occafioned by the death of many ^* fubftantial merchants and ikippers, a^d lofs of ihips and . << decay of trade : that many of the inhabitants, fome of << whom were magiftrates of the burgh, had fled from and •* deferted the fame : that fo great was the poverty of the in-

** habitants,

• Ic is faid thftt the battle of KUfyth alont left lOo wMows is Kirkaldy. \ Stated in a petition to King WUIiam.

of Kirkaldy. 23

^ habitaotSy that<Jl the taxations impofed on the town could "do no more than pay the eight months cefs papble to the *• king yearly, and that with difficulty, &€• *'*

Revoluti&n in 1688.— Before the tStSt of this reprefentatxoa eould be known, the Revolution took place ; an event highly grateful toihe Scots in general, and particularly to the nvbigi ffFife. The inhabitants of Kirkaldy, entering warmly into the fpirit of it, and anxious to diftinguifli themfelves in the fupport of it, found means to apprehend the Earl of Perth, who was Lord Chancellor, and had managed the affairs of Scotland under James; and who knowing that he was generally obnoxious on account of the cruelties which he had pradifed OB the Prefbyterians, withdrew himfelf as foon as the pub-i lie mind had declared in favour of the Prince of Orange. AhcT detaining that nobleman in prifon 5 days and 5 nights^ under a conftant guard of 300 men, they fent him under a convoy of 3 boats manned with 200 hands to Alloa, where they delivered him on receipt into the cuftody of the Earl of Mar. The guard of 300 men they found it neceflary to keep up for 4 months, on receiving information that a force was coming from the Highlands to bum the town, in re- venge for Perth's apprehenfion* Thcfe fadls, and a par-

ticuiar account of their lofles, having been dated in a peti- tion CO King William in 16891, they obtained an abatement of L/iooo Scots of their annual aflefiments. And the Revo* lution having happily diffiifed eafe and freedom and fecurity, and with thefe a fpirit of induftry and commercial exertion,

through

* Copy of the report of the comniinon of Tifitation pents toWn<counciI.

f In this petition, the inhabitants ofTered to inflruA, that their lofles da- ring the diftraded ftate of the conntry amounted to L« toopoo Scots, %v Z. 66,666 : 13 : 4 Sterling.

24 StatyiUai Account

through the country In general^ the languilhing trade of Kirkaldy revired,, and wealth began again to circulate aoiong the inhabitants. As one indication of this, the public coI-> lediions at the church doors, which, on an average of lo yean preceding 1688, amounted only to L. 58 : 3 : 1, and on that year fell to L» 42 : 18 : ^if produced annually for 4 years, commencing with 1693, L. 125:7: 10; and L. no 8s. 2d. on an average of 15 years from 1693 ^ ^ Union.

EffeHs of the Union. — ^This laft event, whatever advantages have been ultimately derived from it to the nation at large, was long confidered as an aera of misfortune and diftrefs to the trade of Scotland* Taxes, which by the treaty of union were laid on many of the neceflaries of life, the duties and cuftoms which were impofed on various articles of merchaa- dife, and the numerous reftriAions with which the EnglUb contrived, in the narrow fpirit of commercial mbnopoly, to fetter the trade of Scotland in general, were quickly and fe- verely felt over the whole of this part of the united kingdom. Commerce every where declined \ in fpite of the attempts which were made to fupport it by the wretched refource of fmuggling. It fuffered particularly in the towns on the Frith of Forth ; many of which were quickly reduced to dif* trefs, and all of them langui(hed. This town was involved io the common fate. Its (hipping, on which it had till then entirely depended, fell rapidly into decay ; and the feveral wars, which • followed each other with little intermifEon for more than half a century, having continued the efTcA which the ^difadvantageous terms of the Union had begun^ the trade of this place was at laft fo much reduced^ that in I 1760,

of tirkaUji a^

i7^, .it empiO]red no more than one coafter of $o tohSj zxA two fcny-boats, each of 30 ♦.

On the retilrn of peace in 1763^ the fliipping immediately ttriyed. By the year 1772, it had increafed to ii reffels^ Carrying 515 tons and 49 men ; and although its progrcfs was retarded by the war with America, it amounted, at the clofe of that war, to la vefiels, carrying 750 tons and 59 men^ ——From that time, it has made conftant and rapid ad* tances.

Preftnt Staie of the Shipping.— ^At prcfent f* it conGfti of 26 fquare rigged TefTels ^i, i floop, and 2 ferry-boats, car4 rying by the regifter 3700 tons, about 5000 tons dead weighty employing 225 men to navigate them ; and worth, when clear to fail, about L. 30,000. One or two of the fmallcft vefTels are employed as coafters, and trade either to Aberdeen or Loo« don \ carrying to the former, fait and eoals ) to the latter, th^ manufaflures of the di(lri£l ) and returning from both with goods, chiefly for this port and Leith* All the other fliipd are employed either in the foreign trade for home confump^ tion, or in the carrying trade. Some of the latgeft of thent are employed in the trade to the Mediterranean, the Weft Indies, and America ) and of thefe feme have been occafion* ally abfeiit from this place for 3 or 4 years. But ihe greater number is employed in the trade to Holland and the Baltip. To thefe the only article of export is coals, (hipped here, at Dyfart, Wemyfs, and other ports on the Frith ; and the chief Unlcles imported from them are corn, flax, flax-feed^ linen*

Vol. XVIIL D yarn^,

* Copy tlepoit of the cufbrn-^ouTe heit to the Board of cafloisf • Ai A 1760.

t A. D. 179*4

t Ooc of the ibips wac %ttilt in l^%%^

06

Statijlical ^ccouMt

yam, wood, iron, aflies, bark, hides, tallow, cloter*fee^ apples, cheefe, genera, &c. >

Ctiffom-Hou/e.'^^The duties payable on exports and importaf in all the towns on the north fide of the Frith of Forth, from Abcrdour U) Largo inclufive *, are under the management of the cudom-houfe at this port ; the bufinefs of which is con- dueled by a coileftor with principal and junior clerks, a comptroller, a land funreyor, 3 land waiters and 14 tidefmen. The office has alfo the management of the fait duties within the fame diflrid ; the colleftion of which employs 1 fupcrvi- for, 7 officers, and 20 watchmen* In 1792, 101 veflels were cleared out at the cuftom-houfe, and 92 entered ; 1 3 of the (hips cleared out, and 43 of thofe entered, belonged to Kirkaldy.

D^/t^/. —-.The whole duties paid on exports in that ycat, amounted to L. 2570 : 10 : 4t ; on imports to L. 2227 : 3 : 7t ;

on

. • The whole (bl|)pms of the above diOiia, (Uod ac in the foUawii^ uMt.- at the divert nl periods referred to.

P«rf/.

In 1760. 1 I

n 1772. ( I

n J784,

la 1791.

s t'

r

r

.^

12

r

Kirkaldy,

,^

i' I 110' II II

5^5

49 ti

75o[ 59^19

3700115

Dyr»»t,

7

5^\ 501I4

1365

Its 10

I2io] {^4 3J|

|f36»Jl

Wemyff,

I, 130

' 9 »

aco

V. 6

3id 26

6

7J^ 4?

Mcthel ft \ Lcvcn, }

6 460

38 8

540

«.

100

7

8

*5i

43

Kinghoin, "^

1

inrluding >

I5j 760

8018 805

8612

40J

4S1J

663

i7

€e:i7«K)ats,J

i

!

i

Butnlinnnd,

10I1135

93,10 6is

63 3 100

11

6

a57

at

Aberdour,

18; 940; 88 4! 215 2& 4 rjo^ i^

J

349, 11

6o'4ii5':>69 67 425540^ 4S 30jOZ47 94

ie,.pi6ia

t^ Kirkaldy. ay

on both to L* 4797 : 14 ; of this Aim, the exports from Kirk- aldjT produced L. 244 : 18; the imports into icL. 1187:3:7^; total L. 1432 : 1 : 7m« The duties on fait for the fame year amounted to L. 5542 : 10 : 6 ; which, added to the duties oa exports and imports, made the whole rev<^iiue paid at thi^ cuf- tom-houfe for that year L. 10,340 ; 4 : 6.

Linen ManufaBureSn-^Thc profperity of this place, which wa$ at firft begun, and for a long time entirely fuppoxted by (hip« ping and commerce, has of late been greatly promoted by inanufa£iures ; and particularly by the manufadure of Iinen« The kinds of linen manufa(!^urcd here are bed- ticks, chec« quercd and ftriped linens, with a mixture of cotton in fome of them, and a low-priced rpecies of plain Jincn. Thefe ap- pear to have been taken from the models of Holland and Flan- ders ; the names which fome of the fabrics dill bear, fuch as^ ftriped Hollands, Dutch checks, Dutch tickst Flanders checks and ticks, pointing their origin to the Low Countries. The particular time at which ths manufa£lure of thefe articles was introduced, is not exactly known ; but they can be traced back to the commencement of this century. And proba- bility feems to fupport the opinion that they were intro- duced earlier; perhaps between the middle of the laft century and the Revolution, when the declenGon of their navigation and trade, forced the inhabitants to ha;ve recourfe to new ways of employing their induftry.

Manufa£^ures, however, made but little progrefs here, till the foreign trade had again declined in confequence of the Upion. In 1733, the whole amount of cloth ftamped at Kirkaldy*) was no more thin 1 771740 yards. In 17439 it

D 2 had

* By an a A of Parliament in 171 7> no linen cloth can be Told or cxpofed isr&le, till it has been iofped^ed and Aamped>— under the penalty of li. 5 on

a 8 Statijii'cal Account

had incrcafcd to 316,55c, the computed value of which •* mounted to nearly L. 11,000*. And, although during the commotions of 1745 and 1746, the fale of manufa£lures was in a great degree fufpended, yet that circumftancc did not much afTcfl their progrefs. They continued to be diligently pro- fecuted, and gradually to increafe, till the war of 1755 inter* rupted the communication with America and the Weft In- dies, at that time, almoft the only market for the goods of this diftri£t. The effects of that interruption, the interval of peace that fucceeded was not fu£Bcient entirely to remove. From the value of L. 22,000, to which the manufactures of the diftrifk had in fomc former years rifen, they fell in 1773 to L. 15,000; and the next year ftill lower. Such indeed

was

the feller, and the fame fum dn the bnyer. For the conTenience of dealers in lioen, public offices are cftablifhed in difTercnt didri^s, under the authority of trujlees^ whom his Majefty is impowered by the fame aA to appoint for •verfeetngf dire&ing^ and improvtmg^ tht linen moHufa&urc im SeatUnd. And thefe truftees have in ibme inflancts authorifcd manufadnrers to ilamp their own cloth according to the dire^ons of the ^€u

Although the law requiring the (lamping of linen, was founded on appa* rent views of public utility, it is doubtful whether any advantage has bcea derived from it fufficient to compenfate the ezpence and lofs.of time, to which the manufaAurer is fabje^ed by it. The approbation of the Oampmafter is never found to have any influence on the judgement of the merchant : Nor is it to be fuppofed, that a pei(bn, who has do connc£llon with the trade, and whofe emoluments depend on the quantity which he Aamps, will be equally fcrupulous of affixing the feai of his approbation, as if his intereft depended on the quality. If (lamping be fonnd a neceflary political regulation, the ends of utility appear to be bell attained, by giving the power of (lamping his own cloth to the manufa^urer ; whofc credit and intered, operate as a joint fecu* rity to the trudces ; and to the public, that no improper goods are fent into the market.

t At that time the ^hole cloth manufactured in the diftriCl, including the yariihes of Kirkaldy, Abbotfhall, Dyfart, Lcflic, &c. was flaropcd here, ami U iacludcd ia the CMipntation.

of Kirkaldy. «9

wsts their ftate about that time, and io unpromifing had the - profpeft become ; firft, through the non-importation agree- ment of America, and afterwards, through the commence- ' ment of hoftilities with that country, that fome of the ma- nufacturers thought of turning their capital into a difierent channel.

One of them *, howe?er, preTU>ufly refoived on an at«* tempt to introduce the manufactures of this place into the in- ternal comfumption of England. The attempt was made, and immediately fucceeded ; and the manufacture of checks and ticks having been of late retigned in many parts of that country, for finer and more profitable articles, and the dif« ferchcc in the price of labour too, enabling the bcots ma- nufacturer to furniih them at a lower rate, the demand from England ha^ increafed \ and the trade has in confequencc been progreiEvely advancing for 15 years, wititout fuf« fering any other interruption,' than that periodical (lag« nadon, which is produced in times of profperity by ov/r- trading.

At prefent the manufactures of Kirkaldy employ about 8 10 looms f J of which about 250 are in the parifli :(, about 300

in

• The late Mr. James Fergus, of the houfe of John Fergus and Sons ; to whofe diicenunent and fpirit, the manufaAurers of this didri^ owe their In* trodnAion to a market which of all others yields the quickeft and fureft re* tvrns,— the inland market of England.

t This nnmher is afcertained from lifts fumi(hed by the manufa^urers in* dWidually. The whole diftrift employs about looo looms ; the produce of which for the year ending xft November 1793, when the returns from the flamp-office to the tmftees are made up, may be eftimated at L. 110,000.

\ The whole looms in the parifh, which are triple the number that they were 4 years ago, amount to 266. But of thefe from xo to 16 are em* ployed by inhabitants of the neighbouring parifhes ; two of whom have (hops here for the purchafe of goods, but arc not ranked among the manufadtiircr» of the pariih.

JA Stati/lical Account

\n the parifli of Abbot(faal1| about loo in the parifli of Dy« fart, about 60 in the parifti of Largo, and the reft fcattcrcd over the neighbouring pari(hes« The annual amount of a weavcr*s work (allowing for the variations of age, ability, and habits of application, among the whole weavers employed) is found to be at a medium from 10 to 12 pieces, meafuring one with another, about no yards. On this computation, the annual produce of a loomjuns from i icq to 1 320 yard% worth on the loweft eftimate of yards, and at the average price of is. each •, L. 55 : And the annual produce of the whole looms employed amounts, on the fame eftimate, nearly to 900,000 yards f , worth at the fame average about L» 45,000* Reckoning 22 fpindles as the average quantity of yarn to a piece, 178,200 fpindles are annually manufaftured into cloth* Of this quantity about a ninth part is cotton yarn ; which is fpun here, and in the neighbourhood, with the af* fiftance of machinery ; as mentioned formerly. The flax- yam has hitherto been fpun with the hand %. After the flax b heckled, the manufacturer fends it to undertakers in different parts of the country, who give it out to be fpun, and receive a certain commiffion on the quantity of yarn returned by them. The expcnce of fpinning, when commiffion and carriage are included, amounts at an average to is. 3d. xhz fpindle. Be«

fides

• The pi ices of checks run from 6d. to is. 6d. per yard ; of ticks, from yd, to as. 6d. The proportion of plain linen is Ycry inconfjdcrable, perhaps not as 1 to 500 of the whole, and the price is tow. As the cheaper fabrics pre- vail, a low average is taken.

t This is nearly as x toj^ of the whole linen made in the county of Fife, the amount of which for the year ending the ifl, November 1793, 'was 5,0x3,089 yards.

I A mill for fpinning flaK, on the Darlington model, is ereAing In the neigh- bourhood by a manufifhirer of this place ; from which fpecimens of good work have already beca produced.

of Kirkaldy. 31

fides the yarn fpun on the manufaQurers account, a coh(i« derable quantity is regularly bought in from the neighbour* hood ; and frequently from Montrofe, Brechin, Cupar- An* gus, &c. Of the whole linen yarn manufa£lured> about a ferenth part is fpun from flax produced in the country \ and the reft from flax imported, chiefly from Riga, at the average price of L, 45, per ton. For fome years a conflderable quantity of yarn has been brought into this port from Bremen and Hamburgh. The quantity has in one year amounted to 441,400 lbs; which at 3 lbs. to the fpindle, made I47>i33 fpindles. Of this, howeyer, but a fmfiU proportion is com« monly ufed in the parifh ; and no great proportion in the neighbourhood. The far greater part of it is fent to Penh, Dunfermling, Falkland, Auchtermuchty, and fome other inland towns, in which coarfe linen is manufac- tured.

Of the yarn ufed in making checks and ticks, about three* fourths are whitened, and the remaining fourth dyed. Moft t)f the principal manufadlurers whiten and dye for themfelres; the reft employ public bleachers and dyers. The different operations of heckling, fpinning, dyeing, bleaching, warping, winding, and weaving, may be computed to employ 5^ hands to every loom ; which makes the whole hands employed in carrying on the manufafture of the place ; reckoning men, women, and children, 4455. Deducing the price of mate- rials, (flax, cotton, foap, aflies, indigo, &c.) which, when thofe of the beft quality are ufed, will be about one third of the value of the cloth, there remains L. 30,000 as the price of labour and the manufaflurers profit. And this being di- vided among the whole number of productive hands, each is found to produce annually to the community about L. 7 Ster- ling.

The manufa£lurcrs of Kirkaldy, bcfides the cloth made by I them

32 Statifiical Account

them, purchafe annually a confiderable quantity from the neighbouring diftrid. The value of the cloth purchafed by manufaAurers or merchants in the courfe of laft year, ex- ceeded L. 30,000. Of the whole cloth, made or purcbafedj about three fourths are fold 10 England ; from which a fmall proportion is exported to the Weft Indies and Amerfl- ca. Of the remaining fourth, about one half of it is fold in Glafgow for exportation } the other half is conrumed in the country *.

The

* The aboTC was the (late of the minufaAures of Kirkaldy, before the dif- trefTes which commerce and mannfaAures in geueral hare fufiered of late be* gan to extend to them. Through the operation of particular drcumitances* thofe diftrefles were preyented for a while from having any confiderable ef* fcft on this diftrift.— — An engagement with a nary contraAor, which ena- bled one of the principal manufaAurers of the place, to put chafe confiderable more than the ufual quantity of checks, contributed to keep the trade alive there for forac months, after it had fuflfered in other pbces. The n^anufac* turers too, calculating on the profperity of the former year, had prepared a large (lock of materials for the probable confumption of the fucceeding year : And thefe materials, many of them were under the neceflity of working up and felling, although with lofs, to retire their bills as they felT due. This brought the ufual quantity of cloth, and perhaps a greater quantity than ufu- al to the market, during the fird part of the year 1793. But the caufec which produced this eflTeft were temporary, and have now ceafed to operate. The engagement with the contraAor has been for fome months at an end. The inateriaU provided in the former year have been generally wrought up. And while the profits on the/ale of the manufaAure have not been iuflicient to re- place them, the want of ready money cannot now be fupplied, at Icaft with the fame facility as formerly, by negotiating bills. Hence there is already an increafiag ftagnation. The number of looms employed wUhwt the place it faft diminilhing. The prices of fpinniog and weaving have been twice redu- ced within the compafs of a few months. On fome fabrics, the price of weaving has fallen ^, on others L and * , and on a great proportion of the coarfer goods, 4* of the former prices. An induftrious weaver can (liU earn from Ss. to las. in the week. But the actual earning of all the wearers, em- ployed.

of Kirkaldy. 33

Leaiheri'^Thc next, both in {landing arid importance to tlie manwfafture of cloth, is leather. This branch was ef- tab1ifl)ed on a fmall fcale in 1723 ; but it has fince been much extended. At pre fen t, it employs 16 hands; who manu- fadurc annually from 3200 to 4000 hides of oxen, and cows, about the fame nui^bcr of calf-lkins, and a fmall proportion Vol. XVIII. E of

|>loye<l, aod for all kinds of work, do not now exceed the weekly average of five (billings.

Much has of late been fald of the bad cffc£U of high wages on the induf- try and proTpcrity of the people. It may be doubted, however, whether ' foch refie£Uons are founded on liberal or juft views of the intereft of the com* munity. High wages, it is true, like high profits on trade, or high rents of land, tncreafe the means of diffipation to thofe who are addi Aed to it, and a« bate the necelTity of their application to induftri^us habits. But when the mind hath candidly diftingui^hed between things them felves, and the abufe of them, it wi]i onqaeftionably be found, that liberal wages are on the whole attended with important advantages. The liberal reward of labour, inftead of abating induflry, ferves in general to increafe it ; that quality, in the o« {minion of one of the mod competent judges '', " improving Hie every other^ mm ^ fro^riiem U the eiMuragement which it receives *^ As high wages facilitate the fapport of a family, labourerjs when they receive them are encouraged to marry yoBng; and population increafes. The industrious are enabled, not only to fupport their families comfortably, but in many inHances to fave a little, which they generally apply to the purchafe of (lock, and begin to work for themfclves. In this way, a number of operative weavers have been of late coming forward into the rank of manufaOurers, and, by widening the foun<* dations of the trade, were contributing to increafe the fecurity of its continu- ance. By the fall of wages, a flop is put to this gradual advancement* And by the flagnation of trade, which is radically the caufe of that fall, many of thofe who were advancing beyond the Hate of workmen, are thrown back in« to it ; with earnings that are hardly fnfficieitt to maintain their families. la this fituatioo, if they happen to have apprentices, their ditlrefs is often in. created by them. The ordinary plan on which appi'entices are taught here is rational and liberal. The time of apprentice fliip is Ihort, ufually 3 years. No premium is required for in(lru£ling them : But the mader receives in lieu of it

one * Dr. Saiith, Wealth of Nations, book i. chap, ^.

34 Statijlical Account

of feal-ikins. The raw hides and fkins are coUefled chiefly from the county of Fife^ But as that range is not fufEcient to fupply theconfumption, a confiderable quantity is impor« ted from the North of Scotland, from Ireland, and fometimcs from Holland. For fome years back, the price of raw hides has been about 7s. per ftone of 22 lbs ; but the prefent ftagnation of trade has reduced it under 55*

From 220 to 240 tons of oak bark arc annually confumed in this manufa£lure. For many years the bark was brought >^'holIy from England; excepting only a fmall proportion

from

Qwt half of the apprentice's earnings, while the other goes to his own fupport. In favourable times, an induftrious apprentice, over and above the (hare which goes to his mafler, earns condderably more than is neceilary for his fup* port. And as the iurplus is tiis own, his induftry is conftantly Aimolated bf partaking of its fruiti. Byt when the wages of labour fall fo low, that an ap- prentice cannot maintain himfelf with the half of his eamings,^whioh is the cafe at 'prefect with the young, the weakly, and tlie inexpert, he mufi be- come a burden upon his maOer, or upon his friends, or abandon the trade.

IC things continue long in their prefent (late, the confequences will in this view, be extenfively injurious to this community. The number of apprentices i^ very great ; the demand for weavers, and the high wages of labour for two or three years pafll, having increafed far beyond the ordinary proportion. Not only was every hand that could be {pared from the neighbourhood deterraineU to the loom ; but plans were formed for procuring fupplies from a diftance. Advantageous propofals were circubted through different diftri£ksof the High- hndS) in confequenceof which about 50 young men, chiefly from Sutherland and Caithnefs rame to this place as apprentices to the bufmefs of weaving, and many more were preparing to follow. Thofe who came had fcarcely begun to feel the advantages of their fituation, when a reduAion of wages took place. Difcouraged by this circumAance on the one hand, and tempted on the other* by large bounties to enter into the army, mod of them have run olf, and en*

lifted. And this is a fcheme likely to be fniftrated, which promlfed to

bring large fupplies of produAive labourers to this diftri^ ; and, in the event, perhaps to carry manufaAures and induftry into diftri^s of Scotland, where tliey are at prefent almoft entirely unknown.

of Kirkaldy. 35

fh)m the Highlands of Scotland. At that time the averagi pricCf including freight and carriage^ was about L. 5 : 10 per ton. But Britifh bark having within the lalt 3 or 4 years advanced almoft to double the former price, (from L. 8 to L. 10} it has fince been found necefTary to import a great proportion of what is ufed here, from Germany and the Ne- therlands. The leather, which is of all the ufual denomina- tions, viz. bend, crop, ihoe- hides, cordovan, faddler*s lea- ther, &c. is fold in the neighbouring towns and country, in the north of Scotland, in Perth, Glafgow, Edinburgh, and occafionally in London. The annual fales have for fome years produced at an average from L. 7000 to L. 8000. The duties paid on this branch produce annually about L. 470. The wages of a tanner, which are nearly double to what they were 30 years ago, run in the week from 6s. to los; thofe of an induftrlous currier will average 15$.

Cotton fpinnwg. — ^The fplnning of cotton, chiefly for woof, has been carried on here for 8 or 9 years \ and till this year with confiderable fuccefs. In 1792, no hands, reckoning men, women, and children, were employed in the town ; beiides thofe who were employed by manufa£lurers of this parifli, in the neighbourhood.— -.At prefent, the number is redaced to 75. Thefe prepare and fpin about 1 100 lbs. of cotton in the week, or about 57,000 lbs. in the year. This quantity is fpun into 32,000 fpindles of yarn $ which at the average price of 45. per fpindle, yields L. 6400. The yarn is fpun on the common jenny ; of which inftrument 29 are em- ployed. The carding is performed on cylinder cards, moved by horfes* The weekly wages paid to the whole hands em- ployed amount to L. 12.

Before this year, a confiderable quantity of the yarn fpun here w^s fent to Perth, to be wrought into callicoes. At

prcfcntj,

3<> Statijiical Acc$unt

prcfent, altroft the vhold" of it is confumed in the maaufac- turca of the diftrift. And to fuppiy tlicfe, about as much more is fpun by manufafturcrs of this place in a neighbouring parifli *, where the convenience of water has induced theni to ere£l machinery.

Shifhbuilding. — Shipbuilding was introduced here in I778, Previous to that time, a great proportion of the (hips employ- ed in the trade of Great Britain, was built in America ; the contiguity of navigable rivers to immenfe forefts making the conftudiioti of (hips lefs expenfive in that country than in any other. But fince the feparation of America, and efpecially fince the regifter a£l of 1785, excluded all (hips not Britifh- ■ built from the trade of this country, fliip-building has gene- rally increafed in it. 38 Vcflcls carrying about 3000 tons^ carpenters meafure (about 4500 dead weight] have been built here in 15 years ; moft of them for the ports of the Frith \ but fome of them alfo for Glafgow, Dundee, Aberdeen, &c. One of the largeft of them for the capital of Zealand. The ordinary contract- price for building with oak plank, is froni L. 4 : 5* to L. 6 per ton of the burden, and the hull is ufu- ally from ^ to 7 of the price of the (hip when clear to fail. The fliip timber ufcd here is partly brought from England, and partly imported from Hamburgh. The number of carpenters employed varies from 10 to 3q» The average of their daily wages is about is« 8d.

ManufaBure of Siochings* — ^The manufadluring of (lockings has been carried on here fince the 1773. ii Looms are at prefent employed in it j 7 in what is called cuftower vjork^ i. e. in working materials which families or individuals pre- pare for their own comfumption, and 4 in manufaduring for

fali;.

f Kinghorn.

^ KiriaUf. 37

£dt« Cilcttlating on the average of all fizcs and qualities of dockings^ every loom employed for fale prodnces annually about 520 pairs^ worth from 2s. to 4s. each^ or about L. 70 the whole produce. The average of the earn- isgs of an indoftriotta ftocking maker is about 8s. in th«- week.

Sea S^/««— ~The making of fea fait was once a manu« fafture here» and a long eftablifiied one. In the town's charter of confirmation (1644), the fait pans are mentioned as part of the defcription of the burgh. But little or no ialt has been made fince coal ceafed to be wrought in the fwilh*.

i?/z;ji.— The general profperity of this place has been much promoted by the eitabliOiment of a branch of the bank of Scotland in ^785- As mod of the bu(mefs of the neigh- bouring diftrid is tranfafled through the medium of this branchy its annual operations in the way of ca(h accounts, difcounting billsi and circulating fhe paper of the company^ are very conCderable. And it is worth while to remark, that notwithftanding the increafed facility of obtaining credit which has been produced by it, yet no failure of any eonfe- quence has happened here ; nor has the bank, or their agent, who guarantees to them aU the bills which he difcounts, fuf- fercd any lofs, fince the office was eftabliihed.

About two years ago, the banking company of Dundee attempted to (hare this profitable trade with the bank of Scot- land

* Since the &bo?e was wrttteo, the making of iah hts again hegim^ 9md is likely to he carried on with Aicceff : a late advance on the price of Talc ^ejiig more than Aiffidcnt to balance the eatra expc^iccof brin^^ing coids from a drilauec.

38 Statijlical Account

land* But owing to the circuteftances of the timed^ the tU tempt has not fuccecded.

D^M/tw/rfflgf/.—— While different circumftances confpire to render this town an advantageous (ituation for commerce and manafa£lures, there are obvious difadvantages iin« der which it labours, f • The harbour is narrow, incommo- dtousy and fo much expofed to an heavy fea from the eaft, as to fufFer frequent injury* This, it is pollible in fome degree to remedy ; but at an expence to which the funds of the town are at prefqyt inadequate. 2* The parifh affords no water for the neceflary operation of bleaching, or for driving the machinery by which the fpinning both of cottoit and flax is now beginning to be performed. 3. TKe vicinity of the capital contributes to increafe the prices of labour and provifions, and perhaps too, to produce fome tScQt on the general habits of living : Add to all this, 4* The unfriendly influence of corporation and burgh privileges* The corpo- ration fpirit, limiting to a few, advantages to which all have a natural claim, and making the freedom of the trade, as it is called, paramount both to {kill and induftry, cannot in the nature of the thing, but operate unfavourably on the profpe-« rity of the community. It is probably owing to the operation of this fpirit, that although free burgage tenure be every way fuperior to that of burghs of regality and barony, yet the adjacent towns of Linktown and Pathhead» which afe of the laft kind, have for 30 years back increafcd in more than a double proportion to the royal burgh of Kirkaldy. The politics of burghs, too, generally aflrdl the public induftry and the public morals : Or if they {hould not, at any fate they tend to abate the public happinefs and profperity. The coUifiott 9f political opinions and political interefts, dividing the in**

habitaatf

of Kirkaldy^ 5p

habitants into patiUi or fits, not only diminiflies tbe freedom of intercourfe and familiar fociety, but prevents the applica- . tion of the public ftrength entire, to the profecution of the public good.

Although this place has fuflFered in common with others from that unhappy caufe, it is but juftice to fay, that there is perhaps none of the burghs of Scotland, of which the con* ftittttion is more liberal, or of which the gOTemment is lefs approfriatetL

Canjfitution of the Burgk''—^ At tbe time that the oldeft extfting records of the burgh commence (A«D. 1586,) the iorm of its gOTcrnment was, popular, and extremely fimple* The whole adminiftration was vefted in two bailies, annually ele€ted by the inhabitants, nybors and freemen at large, who, as tbe minute of cJeflion bears, gave them commiffionj and pro^ tmfed them fubjeOwn and q/Jiftance. The bailies, after taking s an oath of fidelity, named what was called the head court or

\ 0nmsal ajfifi. This court immediately fat, and ordained oBs

, mnd Jiatutes for the public weil : which were inilantly recorded

as the bailies guide for their year of office. In 1595 a coun- I cil was added to aflift the bailies. This council, two or

three years after, aflumed the power of naming a leet, from which the inhabitants were to choofe the magiftrates ; and .after the preparation of a year or two more, took the elec- tion wholly into its own hands, and excluded the community. In the charter of confirmation, however, the right of eleding their magiftrates was reftored to the community in common with the council. And when the burgh was in 1652 incor« porated with the commonwealth of England, that right was cxprefsly recognifed and continued to them: And " the '' neighbours and inhabitants of the town were authorifed and << appointod, according to their former rites and caftoms, irom

" time

40^ Statijlicat Account

' ** time to timcy to nominate and choofc their magiftrates aiid 0« «« thcr officers for the government of the burgh **" The Rcfto* ration produced a new coAftitution ; the formation of which was a fource of violent diflenfions among the inhabitants* Thefe were, however, at length compofcd by the arbitration of the Earl of Rothes, then Prefident of the Privy Council | trhoby his decreet-arbitral pronounced in 1662, eftabliflied the fit or c$nJlitution which ftill fubfifts \ and which ha^s'con^ tinued (ince that time without interruption, fave only during the reign of James IL who by his organ, the Privy Council^ cxprefsly nominated and appointed to the magiftracy, &c* fuch perfons as he judged mod loyal and ready to promote his fervice f • By this conftitution the government of the burgh is vcfted in a council annually chofen from three clafies ol inhabitants, mariners, merchants, and craftfmen. The coun«. cil confifts of 21 members 1 of whom 10 muft be mariners, 8 merchants, and 3 craftfmen. The old council eledt their fucceflbrs ; to whom, however, they do not wholly reCgn their places, till they have voted along with them and with the deacons % of the incorporated trades in the eIe£lion of the new magiftrates. Thefe are taken from the new council j and coijfift of a provoft, 2 baillies, a dean of guild, and a trea* furcr. The incorporated trades arc 7 in number ; and rank hi the following order \ fmiths,. wrights and mafonsj wea-* vers, (faoemakers, taylors, bakers, and flefhers. Here, as in

othet

* Commiflioti from the Ptrliament of the Commonwealth of £n;;l2nd, ttf the inhabitants of Kirkaldy, to choofe their own magiftrates, penu Towd Council.

t Ad of the Prirf Coancil in 1 48;, appointing the Earl of Balcams, and «tberst majriftrates of Kirkaldy,/effe/ Town Council.

^ The Deacons have a Tote in the Council in all cafes, excepting the form** tion of the new CouQcil|

3

f>f KirkaUy. 4t

^thier burghs, the privilege of exercifing ihelr feireral ^des 16 enjoyed ezclufiyely by the members ti the incorporation \ excepting in the cafe of wearers and fiefhers. The excluiive privileges of the formerwere reliucedby an a£lof the legiflatnre in 1751 ; by which weavers in flax and hemp are permitted to fettle and exercife their trades any where in Scotland, free of all corporation dues. And the injurious confequences of the corporation privilege are guarded, againft, in the cafe of the latter, by an a£l of the firft Parliament of Queen Anne, (fefs. I. ch. 7.) ; which, declares it to be leifume to all per- ibns whatfomever, to fell and break all forts of fldflies on every lawful day of the week, and that in all towns and burghs of this kingdom, free of any impofition whatfomever| ihe petty cuftom of burghs excepted*

Parliamentary Reprefentation.^^^inct the Union of the two icingdoms, this burgh joins with the neighbouring burghs of Dyfart, Kinghorn, and Burntifland, in fending a reprefenta- tivc to the Britifli Parliament. Delegates, nominated by thd councils of tlie feveral bUrghs, eleft the reprefentativc. The return of the reprefentativc is made by the burghs in rotation ; and in cafe of an equality, the delegate of the returning burgh has a double voice. The greatefl number of thofe who vote for the delegate is 28 ; and the choice is determined by a majority. The delegate, when chofen, is not mere- ly the legal organ by which the fenfe of his conftituents is ex« preded. He a£ts in the matter of ele£lion, without limitation or controul ; and his principle's are their only fecurity for hi9 conveying their fentiments.

Revenue^ The revenue of this burgh is but inconfidera-

bie. It arifes partly from feu-duties on land* By the origi- VoL-XVIIL F n4

y(2 Statiflical Account

»

nal charter of ere£lion •,52 acres of adjacent land, whicbi together with the burgh, had been conveyed to the abbey of Dunfermling in 145O5 were ditsjoxned from the regality of the abbey, and annexed to the burgh, to be held of the crown. Some time after, the right of pafturage in the moor, which had alfo been conveyed to the burgh in 1450, was by a new conveyance from the abbey, converted into property f . The moor and burgh acres extended to full three fourths of the prefent parifli. The burgh acres were early alienated. The moor continued long in the poffcflion of the community. In 1648, at which time the parts of it that lay neareft the Sown were begun to be converted into arable land, it was let at L. 72 : 6 : 8 %. In 1688, the moor and common loan were lec^t L. 68 : 10$. Since that time the whole property of the town has beei>feued out, and it n6w yields L. 40 : 12,

to

* This charter, which it referred to in the Charter of Confirmation, but without fpecifying its date, is not now to be found. It is probable that the ^ papers which related to the eredion of the burgh, were either deftroyed in 1560, when the French, whom the Q[ueen Regent brought into Scotland f aflift in fapprefling the Proteftants, plundered and burnt Kirkaldy in their dedru^tive progress along th« coaft of Fife, or loft in i6ji at the taking of Dundee, to which place they had, on Cromwell's inva/ion, been removed for lecurity, with other valuable tKc{\i^ as mentioned in page 41ft. One or o- ther of thcfe is dated in a memorial from the town in 1678 ; as the reaibo why they could not be produced in a procefs before the Court of Seifion, in which an ezhibiton of them had been ordered. The fafls dated above are taken from different papers in poflefllon of the burgh.

t This conveyance is mentioned in an inventory of writs belonging to the burgh in 1 712.

% tlenounciation and difcharge Henry Bofwell to the town.

§ Report of the ComsuiCoa of Vifitation, appointed by the ConveatioB ^f B«rgb«»

of Kirkaldy. 43

|o the community *. In this fum all public burdens are in* eluded } the community having become bound, when their * lands were feued, to relieve the feuars of all public burdens in all time coming ; thus leaving to pofteilty one incontrover- tible proof, at lead, that they once had property.

The reft of the revenue is drawn from a port duty on goods landed at the harbour, from the petty cuftoms^ on goods inter- * changed with the neighbouring country, and from an impoft of a pennies Scots on the pint of ale brewed in the town for fale, or fold into it from the neighbourhood. This laft is a parlia- mentary gran^ which Was firft given for a limited period, in 1707, with the burden of L.'io annually, to the profeflbr of mathematics in the King's College of Aberdeen ; and which has, fince chat time, been again and again renewed, without any burden. The whole revenue produced laft year L. 3 1 7 f, but it does not average above L. 260. The ordinary purpofes to which the revenue is applied, are: f. The difcbargc of public burdens, amounting annually to about L, 60* 2* The payment of intereft on a debt of L. 2430 1- 3* The repara« tion of the harbour. 4. The payment of clerks, o£Eicers, and ail the incidental expences incurred in conducting the buG- nefs of the community.

The annual cefs paid to government from this burgh is L*8o:y:8; to which it was reduced on a reprefencation

F 2 to

* Above 40Q acres of the moQr were fened to the Ute Mr OfwsUl of Punikecr, at the yearly fen-duty of L. 45 : 10. But, in confcqucnce of a re- ierre to the fcuar, to buy up the feu-duty at leaft to a certain extent, at oo years purchs^fe, it has been lately reduced to L. 20 : 18 ; 4 ; Co that the whole |cu duties now payable to the town, are as above dated.

f Feu duties L. 40 : 12 ; petty cuftom JL. a8 ; 10 ; flior&^Iues L. 135 ; im- |K>n L. 105 ; meal market, weigh-houfe, &c L. 8. Total L.. 3x7 ; ft.

t «^t the Revolution, the debt of the town was 60,000 merks, or L, 333^ f S. 84* Sterling, as afccrtaiaed by the Comniidion of ViHutioo^

f

44 Stattjiical Account

to the conyention of royral burghs in 17701 ^^^^ having ftooA at L. 94 : 15 :9» (ince the Union. Part of the ce& is levied from the traders, according to the trade of each^ afcertatned by a jury of 5 mariners, 5 merchants and 5 craftsmen; who are nominated by the council, but iwho cannot at rhe time be members of the council. Fart of it is levied from the tmrgh acres. But three fourths of it are raifcd by a poundage on houfe rents. Tbcfe have been progreffively advancing for 30 jears. In 1763, they were eftimated at L, 729; in 1783 ae L. 10501 in 1793 at L* i6$4. As houfes in the po(7e£- fion of proprietors are always rated below the real value, the whole houfe rents may be eilimated at L* 20001 which is about the proportion of L, 3 of rent for each- family.

The window tax amounts nearly to as much as the cefs. ^he whole duties paid to the tai-oihcc for the year ending 5th April i793> amounted to L. 171.*. The whole duties paid to the excife-office f, for the year ending 6th July 17931 amounted to L« 2250 : 1 5 : 6$-. The poft office produced m 11793 9 L. 528 i the diftribution of ftamps L. 43 3. When to thefe branches the cuiloms are added, the whole revenue

draWlT

* Window duty, okl and iicw,L. 7^ 1 19 1 xo } tobabitcd boufes L.6 : is : 3 1 wltecl^arriagcs L. 48 : 8 ; male fenrantt L. aj : 18 ; 6 ; horfes L.. 15 : a : 6* Total L.. 171 : 1 : i.

f This is properly the rcfideiice of the colle^for of exdfe for the county of P5fe. It is alfo the refidencc of a fupctt ifor, and of — ^— • officers of excite. The detail of the exc>re>duties dated abore, is as follows ; Ale, L. 159 : 13; candle, L. 59 : 2; leather, L. 47r : 14 : io\ \ matt, L. 174 : ix ; wine and ipirits imported, exdoiiTe of the cnAom-houfe duty, L. XX30 : 15 : Jj wino Utenoes, L. xt ; ftyreign fpsrit do. L. 7X : 8 ; pbiin acjuaritz do. L. 46 ; tea do. L. 9 : 7 ; tobacco do. L. 5 : 5 ; Ecenccs for brewers, andlcmakers^ tanners, and cunricrs, L. xx : xo. 1 otal, L. 22^0 : 15 1 6^.

t^Kirkaldy. 41

^rawn from this parlfh for one year will amount to L.. 4914:18:3; which 18 nearly in the proportion of L. I : f 6, for every perfon, man^ woman, and child in the pariih *.

Eccle/iajlical State, k The ecclefiaftical cftalilifliment of tliis parilh has, through the low ftate of the burgh funds, fufFered a temporary redu£bionr In 1614, the date of ch^ oldeft ecclefiaftical record, the church appears to have beex> collegiate; the duty ofjt having been conduced by two mi* n^fters, exercifing equal powers, and having nearly an equal provifion f. At that time the ftipend of the fecoqcl minifter was 800 meiks, paid the one half by the heritors, the other by the town council % ; while that of the firft minifter in 1 630, was no more than 480 merks, a chalder of bear, a chaldcr of oats, and 4 bolls of wheat $» Both charges continued to be regularly fupplied, and both minifters to fit as conflituent members of all the ecqlefiadical judicatures ||, till 1 7 59 ; when a vacancy happening in the fecond charge, the minifter of the firft undertook to do the duty of the whole parifh, on condi- tion pf receiving, together with bis own ftipend, the Ijalf of

that

* Of tlie articles 'which pay duty in this pariHi, a great proportion is con- /omed oat of it. This, however, may be coniidered as balanced by other articles coafuified m the parifh, which pay duty,' but of which the duty k cither not paid in the parifh, or not included in the above (latement. Articles i»f the firft kind, are tea, coRee, fugar, rum, porter, vinegar, home-made fpisits. tobacco, glafs^ paper, filk, printed cloth, fail-doth and cordage, f»p, ftarch, pins, newspapers and almanacks, cards, and dice, &c. Artidea •f the laft kind, are, fait, hats, drugs, perfumery, &c.

t S<(Con records, pajftm,

\ The amount of the ftipend 4nd the mode of payment, is written pa a leaf at the beginning of the olded volume of the Seflion records.

5 This is recorded in a volume of the Prefbytery records of the above date*

I Records of P;-e/bytery,' ^ynod, aod General AfTcmbly,

46 Statijlical Account

that which had been enjoyed by his colleague. This arrange* ment, the oftenfible reafoa of which was the poverty of the burgh, (which after tlie disjundion of Abbotfliall» paid the whole of the fecond minifter's (lipend) ; the prefbytery were prevailed on to allow for a time. And although the town- council have, ever fince the death of the incumbent with whom the arrangement was made, appropriated thjit fti« pend to their own ufe, the charge to this day continues vacant.

Stipend. — ^The crown prefents to the firft charge ; the town council were in ufe of fupplying the fecond. The (lipend of the fecond charge in 1759) was 1000 merks Scots. The prefent ftipend of the firft charge is i2cf{ bolls of bear, 79 J boll^ of oats, and 100 merks of vicarage. The laft decreet of augmentation (which, was paflcd in 1737) gives alfo the ticnd of fiih according to vfe and wont. But as almoft the whole of the fi(h fold here, is carried over land, and the ufe and wont is underftood to confine the minifter's right to fifh carried into the parifli by water, no advantage is at prefent derived to him from this part of his decreet. The firft n?i- nifter has a nianfe ; a glebe of stbout af acres, and about the fame quantity of land, independent of the giehe^ enjoyed fince X678 by a private mortification. By a recent judgement of the preft>ytery, the minifter is found intitled to have this glebe enlarged to the legal ftandard, and to have ground afligned to him for pafture. This judgement has, however, been fufpcnded, and is now under the review of the Court of Seffion.

Church. The church is old, how old is not txzCAj

knpwn. It is faid to have been dedicated to St. Brifle j who

ia

of Kirkaldy. 4jf

in the days ti fuperftition appears to* have been the tatelar fadnt of the '^lace *| and who has entailed his name on » fmall divinon of the burgh lands, which is called in the regif- ter of fafines St. Brifle or St. Brye'4 DetJ. The church is bat in indifferent repair > nor could it well be otherwifc, when jaeithcr the heritors nor town* council have for more Ihan 180 years taken any charge of it. What repairs it has received, during that time have been paid for by thekirk-fcfiion. On the recommendation of the heritors and eouncil> the coUediont made at the church doors before the afternoon fervice were for a while employed for this purpofe. But the prefbyte- ry having inhibited that application of the collcdions, the church has for more than a century been kept in repair out of a part of the feat-rents^ which are under the management of she kirk-feifion*

Seats. Originally the whole area of the church was in

their hands: And their records fliew that all the incorpora- tions, and fttch of the heritors as have feats, (more than the half of them have none) derived their rights from the kirk* feilion. They (till retain about a fourtl) part of the church ; from which they draw annually from L. 18 to L. 20. The neceflary repairs are defrayed from this fund, the ' remainder of which goes to the maintenance of the poor in common with the colleftions. Some of the heritors of Abbotfliall retain their feats in the church of Kirkaldy ; and by a decreet of the Court of Seflion in 1685, are found liable

in

^ The arms of the burgh appear to have been framed In compliment to this fiiint. Thefe are a Gate of a Church, with the Saint (landing in it, having a Mitre on his head, fomething rcfembling a Crofs in his hand, a MooB and Star, as emblems of night round him ; and the motto under, jn^Uanda mum;

'4' Staltfltcal Account

ih their propdrtiori of the repairs. The tiends of Abbot*" ihall are, by the fame decreet, liable for the repairs of Hid ^uire of Kirkaldy.

i)^/rrf.— -There is no place for ptiblic wdrfliip in the ^ariih, but the parxfli church ; if a mafon-lodge be excepted^ . t(rhich is employed for that purpofe by an handful of indepen« dents. -Mod of the other diflenters attend at different places ih the neighbouring parifhes. On the firft of January 179^)^ the difl^ntersi taking the whole number of fouls, weie 595 % which was to the eftablirhment nearly in the proportion of i to 3^, and of 1 to 4^ of the whole population* Thefe were divided among the different denominations of diiSbniers in the following proportions, vi2. Burghers 304, antiburghers 206^ preibytery of relief 51, independents ii, «pif copals lo^ reformed preibytery 9, Bereans 2, baptifl: r^ Roman catho^ Hc*l.

The diffenters of this place, and particularly thofc of then! who retain the ftandards of the church, are diilinguifhed iot moderation and liberality. Of that forbidding afpcrity, which foi^ fome time after their firft feparation charaflerized thei condudl of feceders towards the members of the churchy there ts fcarcely a trace remaining.* Good men of the fecef- fion ^nd of the eftablifhment, dwell together as brethren in the ezereife of mutual charity and of mutual elleenu And in one of their congregations, the minifter of which refides in Kirkaldy and takes his official defignation from it^ the eftabliflw cd oongr/egation of the place, has not unfrequently by name, a friendly intereft in the public prayers.

School. The public fchool is under the care of two maf-

ters ; tvho teach in feparate rooms, and without any depen- dence one on the other. The firft maftcr teaches Latin,

Frctich,

tf Kirkaldy. 49

Fiench^ Arithmetic, Book-keeping, &€•; thefecond, Englifli and Writing. The firft has a yearly falary of L. 20 \ which, "with the fchool-fees, and the emoluments of the office of feiEon-clerk which he holds at prefent, makes his living a« bout L, 60. The fccond has a falary of L. 10 * ; which, M^ith the emolument of his fcbool and private teaching, makes his living about L«40. The dated fabrics of both are paid by the town-council. There are feveral private fchools in the place. In all the fchools there are about 250 children in the ordinary courfe of attendance.

The Poor. — The poor of this parifli are chiefly fupplied from the collections at the church doors. Thefc, notwith- ftanding the increafe of money, which the profperity of the country has of late produced, are not fo great as they were an hundred years ago f . This may be partly a confequence of the Seceflion, which has diminifiied the numbers of the eftabliflied congregation. But it may be partly attributed alfo,- to a feceffion of a different kind, the fecefEon of too many of thofe, who are called '^ the better fort," from the public ordinances of religion.-^The Seceders of this clafs are unhappily fo numerous in moft parts of the country, that a plain man, who (hould judge from the general conduct, might be apt to conclude, that the pofiefTion of a little land, a commiflion in the army or navy, or any diftindiion pro- feilional or official, which allows a man to add Efquire to his name, were conHdered as a charter, entitling the pofTefTor to <^ hold blanch'' of Heaven, on paying an occafional duty ;

Vol. XVIII. G and

* Since the abore was wHtteo, the Hilary of the fecond mtfter has bee« augmented to L. 16.

t Vide pa^n I9i and fl4>

50 Statijtical Accmnt

and that, p«4iap§, 6nly when demanded by royal procrftma* tion. ' Tfiis U " a fbfc evil,'^ of which the country at large \% tt prefent eating the bitter fruits ; no one caafe perhaps hav- ing contributed more^ if not to e jtctte, at lead to foment that fpirit of ^* infubordtnation/' which has of late occaiioned fttch general alarm. Not only does the irreligion of the higher ranks abate their perfonal refpeftability and influence; but, as the common people^ by a procefs of mind of which die meaneft ate capable, transfer the character of their fu« periors whom tbcy know^ to thofe whom they kntyw not^ it has the efFe£t of inducing an unfarouraUe opinion of the holders of place and power in general. And, what is ftill more injurious to the interefts of fociety, it operates in the way of exanxpJe, gradually to weaken and deftroy the ret traints of religion on the public mind, and fo to leare it bpcn, and without a guard to the imprefBons of the ill-diCt pofed and defigning.

Were men of raak and fortune to fee their duty', or cTeii iJicir intcreft, in the proper light, and to cultivate and main^ taiurthe religious chara£>er; befides t|ie advantage which thcf Would derive to themfelvcs, in rcfpeflfc of improvement and comfort, they would fecure at once, a perfonal inffuencey and an accellion of ftrength to the ftate, which, fo long at ' they fet up independant of reiigion, all tfaefar exertions will ht infufficient to g^in.

' Through the irregular attendance of many of the upper ranks, the public fupplies for the poor are here drawn <jhicfly from that clafs of inhabitants on which they ought fo fall lighteft, • thofi* whofe perfonal labour is generally no more than fuiEcient for the comfortable maintenance of their own families. It is not furprifing, therefore, that notwithftanding the populoufnefs of the parilh, the ordinary collcftions for 12 years preceding 1791^ produced no more 3 than

of Kirkaldy. 5!

than L. 63 : lo. Since that time, by difpcnfing the facra* ment twice in the year, and by making an extraordinary CoUedion at the new year> they have averaged L. 85. Whei| CO this is added, the furplus of feat rents *, the don^tioni .which are cuftomary among the more opulent on occa- fion of marriages and the death of friends, and the intereft of an accumulated fum of L. 290^ the whole funds, iinder the managemenc of the kirk-feffion, hare for 2 or 3 yearf amounted to about L. 120; or about L. 100 clear, after deducing (the only-ezpence incurred in the management )» fmall (alaries to a tre^furer and diftributor, a clerk, and an 4>fficer. Out of this fum above 40 perfons are regularly fuppUed ; 8 or 9 of the moft deftitiste of whom have the additional benefit of lodging, in a houfe pur- chafed for the poor, about 50 years ago. Befides the regular penfioners, above 40 more aire fuppUed occa« fionally f • That the whole muft be inadequately fup- pUed, any one may fee who compares their number with thi: funds to be divided among them. Although no man, who has the welfare of his country .at heart, would wiih to fee poor's rates eftabliflied here on the. fame footing on which they are in England, yet the friend of humanity muft regret, that fome equitable plan is not generally adopted for fecuring xnore efieSually to the indigent, the neceflary aid of their snore fortunate brethren. Perhaps the time is not very re- mote, when fomething of this kind mud be doi|e« When

G2 fo

• Sec page 47.

f Since the bbore wts written, the poor hare became i^ immeroas, anA their neceffities £> urgent, that befides t^traordinary and liberal contribu* tions made by the inhabiuntt, the kirk feiCon hare been obliged to encroadi on their capital. Upwards of 1 70 perfons, a confiderable proportipa of theoa with families, hsTC been fuppUed at one public diftribotion.

52 Statijlical Account

fo many of thofe on whom the law refts the burden of the poor, bellow neither time, nor thought, nor money, to pro- vide for them, it is not improbable that kirk feffions, whofe attention to the poor is merely ** a labour of love"; to ■which they arc no otherwife bound, than by the common obligations of humanity, will find themfelves conllrained to do in general, what fomc of them already threaten, give up collecting at the church doors, and leave it to the civil ma- giftrate to make proviHon for the poor, by putting the laws for their fupport in execution.

It is fortunate for the poor of this parifli that they do not all depend upon the public funds. The fociety of feamen^ the company of merchants, the incorporated trades, the malt- imen, the carters, have all of them feparate boxes for aflifting the poor of their refpeftive focieties. The feamen, in par- ticular, have funds, arifiug partly from rents and feu-duties, and partly from a poundage on the wages of failors, which e« nable them to pay annually to indigent members of their fo- ciety, or to their widows and familiee, about L. 40, befidcs furnifiiing ten of them with a houfe to lodge in.

Charitable Affhdations, — Three difFerent afTociations have of late been formed here, for the purpofc of aflifting the members, when their'ordinary labour is fufpended by dif- trefs. Thefe are all conllituted on the fame general plan. Each member, befides a fmall fum paid on his admiilion, contributes at the rate of one penny in the week, and re- ceives weekly, when confined, 3 fliillings. To thofe, whofe "daily fubfiftence depends on their perfonal induftry, this is often a feafonable fupply; and the meanefl labourer can without difficulty afibrd the contribution which entitles him to rcceirc xx%

Mwm

0/ Kirkaldy. 53

MtMfts of Zuhjtjlence^ and Wages. — The inhabitants of this parifli, upon the whole^ enjoy the means of fubfiftence in an equal degree ivith thofe of the fame level in any other part of the country. ITie late fucccfsful exertions of the trader and manufacturer, have, by increafing the demand for all kinds of labour, and of courfe increafing their price, contri* buted to improve the circumftances of the community in ge- neral. And, although the caufe of this improvement does not at prcfent operate with the fame force, yet weaving, the price of which was the firft increafed, is perhaps the only fpecies of labour of which the wages h^ve yet fuffered any condderable diminution* Wrights and mafons ftill earn from 9s. to I OS. 6d. in the week; fmiths from 78. to los.; fhoe- makers from 5s. to ios«; taylors from 6s. to 8s.; hacklersfrom 9s. to 15s.; gardeners from 8s« to 12s.; day*Iabourers from 6s. to 7s. in all feafons; and during the time of harveft, and of weeding and hoeing, which, fince drilled crops have become fo frequent, continue through a great part of the fummer, their earnings are dill higher. Male farm fervants, and fe- male fervants, whether for houfe or farm, are commonly hired by the half-year ; and receive of wages, the former from L. 3 : los. to L. 4. the latter from 256. to 408. exclu- five of their fubfiftence.

Prtft^iwi/.— While fuch is the rate of wages, and labour- ers in general are fully employed, provifions are obtained ea- (ily, and upon the whole at a moderate price. Oat meal, now lefs ufed than formerly, but ftill a chief article of food among the working clafles, fells, on an average of feven years, at IS. the peck; flour at is. 4d. ; peafe and barley meal at 8d. When oat meal is cheap, the confumption of it is to that of flour, nearly in the proportion of two thirds, when dear, of one half* Two thirds of the oat meal confumed here is

brought

54

StcUiflical Account

brought from a diftance, chieiy from Mid-Lochian. Tho flour is chiefly furnifhed by the county of Fife, though there is occafionaliy a fupply from £ngland.

The ilefh market is well fupplied in all feafons^ and the confumptton of butcher* meat very confiderable, probablj three times what it was twenty years ago. The average of the number^ weight, and value of the different kinds of cat* tie which have been annually killed, and fold here for fome years, is as follows.

Kinds.

Number.

Wei{;htof each in troo Homes.

ToUl weigrht of each kind.

Medium

price,pcrlift.

of %% oc.

Total value.

Beeves

Calves

Sheep

Lambs

Hogs

600

550

1500

yoo

60

24

3

2

li

. 8

14.000 1.650 » i 3.000 1. 125 •

480

3l

•11

L.3.5OC

495 900

337 144

3610

20.255 ftooes

L.S.376

Of this quantity, a full third goes into the confumption of the neighbouring pariihes : About 700 ftones are bought for fea-ftores, by the (hipmafters of the place ; whofe principal fupplies of falt-beef are from Ireland : The remainder (about 12.530 ftones tr^ft ; or 275.660 lib. EngUfli), is confumed in the pariih i and is nearly in the proportion of 4 ftones, 1 1 lib. or 103 lib. £ng!i(h, to every man, woman, and child in it.

The fupply of fifli is Uflened, and the price raifed, by the nearnefs of the metropolis. There are no fifliers that belong to this parifii : About the beginning of fummer, a family or two ttfualiy come from Buck-haven* the principal fifliing ftation on the fouth coaft of Fife, and refide here for a few months* for the convenience of fupplying the inhabitants. But the chief fupply is carried from Buck^haven and Wemyfs^

uTcr

^ Kirkaldf. 5 J

ever land^ on the backsi fometimet of horfe8> but more com- monljr of women. In this way, moft kinds of fiih that are caught in the Frith, are pretty regularly brought to Kirkaldf io their feafons, haddocks excepted ; which have for fevenil years^ been extremely rare, and have been fold at enormous prices. A (hilling has been paid for a fingk haddock, that 15 years ago would have fold for a halfpenny*

The Yicintty of Edinburgh has an eftdt alfo on the prices of eggs, poultry, and butter. Eggs fell from 4d. to 7d. the dozen, hens Jfrom is. to is 6d. each, chickens from 8d. to is 4d. the pair, butter from 8d. to iid. the pound, greea checfe made of ikimmed milk, from 2d. to 3d. the pound *• All thefe articles, (together with the yarn that is fpun in the neighbourhood with the hand), are regularly expofed to Caile^ m the weekTy market, which holds here on Saturday, and has this peculiarity, that it begins between 3 and 4 o'clock in the morning, and is generally oyer by 6 o'clock. This euf« tom was probaUy introduced at firft, to evade the law which proiiibxts Saturday and Monday markets f* And the conve- nience of attending the market in the rooming, and returning home in time for the ordinary labour of the day, has induced the country people to continue the cuftom, notwithftanding chat frequent attempts have been made to aker it. By the Charter of Oiarles, the Burgh had the privilege of holding two annual fairs; one on the third Wednefday of July, ano* tfaer on the laft Wednefday of September. For a long time, thefe were regularly kept; but as the conftant trade of the place advanced, the fairs gradually diminifhcd; and for many years, there has not been a veftige of them.

The

* Cbeefe and butter, at well as butcher meat, are here fold by the troa •r heavy pound of 14 ounces.

t Charles II. Par. t. feff. 3. cap* I9«

1

$6 Statyiical Account

Manners and CharaBer. — ^The inhabitants of this pari& fccm in general to enjoy the advantages of their fituation, and li?e comfortably. Among the upper claffes» the ftile of living is genteeli but not luxurious or expenfive. Allowing; for the diverficy of circumftances, all dafles drefs vrell, and are generally civil in their manners, and decent in their ex- ternal deportment. Although a confiderable proportion of ' them have been bred to the fea, there is nothing of the rough- nefs which common opinion has attached to that profef&on* The clafs of feamen is not lefs refpe£lable in charader than in numbers. The great body of the people are induftrioua and fober : but 31 houfes and 19 '(bops licenfed to retail fpi- xits, — a number that is in the proportion of i to 13 of all the families in the place, — furniih room ta fufpe£l, that from this part of the public chara^ier there muft be exceptions. ' Strong drink appears to have been long a confiderable article in the confumption of Kirkaldy. A temporary impoft on wines and foreign fpirits vented within the burgh, having, by a charter of Charles II. been granted to the magiftrates and council for the payment of their public debts, the deficiencies of that impoft for one year ending November x6>i, are ftaled in a procefs for recovering them, brought againft the vint- jicrs, to have been 60 pieces, (hogfheads) French wine, 6 butts Sack, 60 pints Rhenifti, 80 pints Tent, and 80 pints • brandy. Far down in the prefent century, it was the prac- tice, even among citizens of forae charadler, to take a regular nvbet in the forenoon, and moft commonly to fpend the eve- ning in the public houfe. For a confiderable time this prac- tice has been given up; and the habit of drinking fpirits to txccfs is confined to a few, and thefe generally of the very

lowcft

• Scotch pints, two of which arc about ^\ left thajj the Engliji wine

bfKirkahfyi ^f

io#e& ofier. it is remarkable, howerer^ that tio Irft tluiii 8 perfonsy aad fome of them ranking above the k>wcft orders bare itf little dfiore than 4 years yifibly fallen «vt£kim^ to tlii» deftm&ite habit. With fome exceptions among the twd extremes*, the higher ranks^ and the irery loWeft and mofr trorthlefiy the inhabitants are regular in attending the ordi^ nances of reltgicHV^ and generally obTenrant of its moral du«^ ties. Ahhoogh petty tbcfcsy and other breaches of law that call for correftion, may be fuppofed to happen at times in So fan^ge a community, yet the public charadler has been rarelj^ ftained by the commiifion of great crimes. One or ttro in* fiances of child^murder have occurred within the remenl» brance of the prefent generation. , But no inhabitant of Kirfe* aldy has fuiTcred the puniihment of death fince the com« fhcncement of the bft centnry ; a man and his wife excepted^ tirho Were burnt here in t^339 for the fuppofed crime of l^itchqraft *.

JSminent M^*-^tn refpe£l: of intelleAttal abilttieSi the iiii* habitants of Kirkaldy are not beneath the ordinary level ; and the parifli has at different times produced nieti ihat rofe fat beyond it. The firft^ and not the leaft diftinguiihed, whoiie name has reached US| is MrcHAEt Sccrr, the Friar Bacon of

Scotland }

^ At tliit time tlie belief of witchcraft preTaile<l| an^ trials And execution^ bn accoMDt of it were frequent in all the kingdoms of Eor»pe. It «as in 1634 that the famous Urban Oraodier was, at the infttptioo of Cardinal RichelieUy whom ht had iattrifedj tried and condemned to the (lake, for exercifing the black art on ibme nuns of Loudun, who were fuppofed to be poflcfled. And it Was much about the fame time, that thtf wife of the Mareehal D*Ancre y0wt Wwat for a witchi at the Place dc Oreve at Paris.

H

58 StatiJIical AccoUfU

Scotland *; who, in the 13th century, contribated, by hts zti' tainments in fcience, to break the gloom of that benighted age. After purfuing with unufual fuccefs the ftudy of lan- guages^ belles lettres, and mathematics, at home, Mr Scot travelled into France, where he refided feveral years. From France he removed into Germany, and lived for a while at the court of the Emperor Frederick II. a prince the mod c- Itiinent bf his time, both for his own learning, and for the en* courageraent which he gave to learned men. But that prince being then engaged in war, Mr Scot withdrew from the courts to profecute with more advantage in retirement his favou« rite (ludies of medicine and chemiftryi After fome years he returned through England, (where he was well received by Ed- ward L) into his own country, and there died in 1291.

The extraordinary difcoveries of this man, particularly ia ehemiftry, made him pafs in that ignorant and fuperftitiout age, for a magician % and a thoufand popular ftories are in different parts of Scotland told to this day, of his commerce with evil fpirits, and of the wonders which he atchieved through their agency. He is alfo faid to have been a pro* phet, and among other events to have foretold ^he union of Scotland and England f. He left behind him. z, A tran- flation of Avicena's book on animals from the Arabic intQ Latin : 2. A Commentary on the works of Ariftotle : 3. A Treatifc on the Secrets of Nature, on the principles of the A- riftotelian Philofophy. In this book he treats at large of t fcience, to which a modern author % has applied much inge-

nuicy»

* He was horn at his family feat of Balweary, now the property of Alr« Fergufon of Raith, and fince 1650 part of the pariih of Abbot (hall.

t Belfour'sHldory of Scotland.

\ Lavattr.

of KirkaUy. . $9

nuity^ Phyfiognotny : 4* A book on Alchymy, entitled, the Nature of the Sun and Moon : 5. A book entitled Menfa Philorophica,

Sir George M^Kenzie calls him one of the greateft Philo« ibphers. Mathematicians, Phyficians, and Linguifts, of the times in "which he lived ; and fays, that had he not been fo much addided to aftrology, alchymy, phyfiognomy, and chi* romancy, he would have defervod well of the republic of let- ters.

Towards the middle of the 1 7th century, Mefllrs George and Patrick Gillefpie, natives of this place, and Mr. Robert Douglas, who, with Patrick Gillefpie, was fome time minifter of Kirkaldy, diftinguifhed themfelves by their writings and their condud, in the ecclefiaftical hiftory of thofe difficult times. AH the three were zealoufly attached to the caufe of Prefby- tery, which was then confidered in Scotland as intimately €onne£^ed with the caufe of general liberty. Two of thenr, Mr George Gillefpie, and Mr Douglas, having been pre- vioufly tranflated to Edinburgh, were in 1643 nominated by the General Aifembly of the church of Scotland, Commiffion- ers to the Aflcmbly of Divines at Wcftminftcr •, in the pro- ceedings of which, Mr Gillefpie in particular condufted himfclf with much ability and prudence. He was one of the £rft charafters at that time in the church. He wrote Mif- cellanies, &c. He died in 1649, at the age of 36. A mar« We monument, which was infcribcd to his memory, (it is be- lieved at the public expence), and which, as an appended in** fcription bears, was pulled down through the " malign in- ** fluencp of Archbiihop Sharp,'* but afterwards repaired by the relations of Mr Gillefpie, is ilill (landing in th^s church yard.

After the death of Charles I. Mr Douglas and Mr Patrick Cillcfpie took different fides. The former efpoufed the in- tereds of Charles II. at whofe coronation at Scone in 1651

he

So Statiflical Account

he preached, and conduced the religious part of that cere^ mony ♦. The latter favoured the views of the common* wealth of England, by whofc commiffioners he was made Principal of the Univerfity of Glafgow ; but was ejeded at the Reftoration. The counfels and pens of both were em- ployed to fupport the fides to which they fcverally attached ^hemfelves.

During the prefent century this pari(h has produced dif-« fercnt perfons, who have attracted public notice. Dr. John Dryfdale, late one of the minifters of Edinburgh, and author of two volumes of pofthumous fermons, was a native of it, ;ind received the rudiments of his education at what hia learned biographer calls, The obfcure fchopl of Kirkaldy^ He was born in 171 8, and died in 1788.

KIrkaldy was the birch- place of that diftinguiihed ftatef« ^an, Mr Ofwald of Dunnikeer. Mr Ofwald was originalljF bred to the bar*— -But having in 1741 been chofen to ferve 10 parliament for the diftrift of burghs, of which this is one, he bent the whole force of his mind to his parliamentary duty | In the profecution of which, his abilities, integrity, and labo« rious attention to the interefts, particularly the commercial intercfts, of his country, raifed hira from the level of a citizen of Kirkaldy, to the firft offices and honours of the ftate. He was fucceflively a commiiTioner of trade and plantations, a- lord of the treafury, and vice-trcafurcr of Ireland. He. was alfo a privy counfellor. After reprefenting this difl;ri<fl of burghs in three parliaments) and the county of Fife in a fourth^ be, in 1768, retired from public bufinefs, on account of ilN bealth induced by too intenfe^an application to it. He died \n 1769 at the age of 54.

Kirkaldy has alfo the fignal honour to have given birth to

that

^ |li| fcrmon on that occasion was pubiiflxed,and is flill extant,

of Kirkaldy. 6i

that eminent benefaAor to fociety, Dr Adam Smith, the en- lightened author of the ** Inquiry into the Nature and Caufes *« of the Wealth of Nations/* and to have been the place of his refidence during mod of the time that he was employed in writing that incomparable book. ^ Dr 'Smith was born in 1723. He publifhed his Inquiry in 1776; and before his death, which happened in lyS'p, he had the (ingular good for- tune to fee it tranflaced into the languages, and the principles of political economy contained in it, adopted into the fy(lems» of almoft all the commercial nations of Europe. He wrote alfo "The Theory of Moral Sentiments."— Thofe who would Imow more of this great man, may confult a memoir of his Ufe and charader publiflied in the fecond volume of " The ♦' Tranfadions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh,"

In the more retired, though not the lead ufeful or rcf- pe£):able /pherc of private citizens, Kirkaldy could reckon dif« fercnt perfons» who would have been diftinguilbed as citizens pf the firft clafs in any community.

NUMBER

ERRATA.

pigc 7. 1. T'frtm the hotfom, /or four read five 8. la/f lin^ infert thefc after befides. oo. To the money ftated in this pa)^, fupplj Scots, a 1. 1. 21 from the bottomyfar its read this. 30. 1. 17. for formei ly read afterwards. 3». I. 7. dele of it. L 11 for there read here. 32 1. JS'fer conAderable read confiderabiy, 34. 1. A- from the bottom, for this r^a^thns. 36.1. l8yor , One read ; and one.

41. 1. 8 from the hottim^ afUr delegate infert of this bur^h^ 4^. I. ii,fr9m ^ bottom^ infert the bejore poiTeffion.

bf ScoHf, 65

NUMBER It

PARISH OF SCONE. (county of i*erth.)

£y Robert Thomas, Preacher of the GoJpeL

^TT^ MiS parifh has always borne its prcfcnt name* tt is •*• fometimes written Sioon^ but more frequently Scone. The Word is fuppofed to be of Gaelic original. The people in the Highlands call it Skain> thofe who live at a remote diftance pronouncing both vowels, and thofe who live nearer pro- nouncing the a onlj, which they found like the Englifli long a,

llie word Skdin in Gaelic is fald to fignify a tent. But though there are fcvetal ehafms^ or deep openings of the earth formed in feveral places by the conftant adion of two btooks ; yet, there ii no itiark of any fuch convulfion of na* ture, as this origin of the name rfiight be fuppofed to in* dicate.

Sliutttion^ and Extent.'^lt is Gtuated neatly due north front Perth, in the county and prefbytery of Perth, and in the fynod of Perth and Stirling. It is bounded on the weft by the river Tay, which fcparates it from the pariflics of Perth

Vol. XVIIL I anil

66 Statijiical Acctmnt

and Rcdgorton ; on the north and caft by the parifh of St. Martin; and on the fouth and eaft by the parifh of Kinnoul.

Its form is irregular ; but, on the whole, it approaches in a certain degree to a fquare. Its extent itom north to fouth, as well as from ea(i to wed, is about 3 £ngh'fli miles ; and confequently it confifts of about 9 fquare miles, containing about 4600 Scots acres. Of thefe, about 3000 are undef grafs and corn ; 700 planted ; 500 common, (now under fub« miffion in order to a divifion), and the reft is either occupied by roads and villages, or is hitherto in an uncultiyated ftate^

Appearance.-^Vrom the fide of the Tay, on the weft, the iurface of the earth continues, on the whole, to rife to the caft border, where it is confiderably above the bed of the river. Thodgh there is a confiderable part of it in level grdutid ; yet every where, here and there, it forms itfelf intoXmall hills, of a gradual and eafy afcent. Bat there are no rocks or precipices, except in the quarries^ and fcarcely any ftecp places, except by the fidcrs of brooks*. Every fpot aimoft is arable ; and there is fcarcely a hill, which is not al* ready either planted or ploughed. The whole of the weft part of the parifti has a cultivated and beautiful appearance* Towards the middle, and the eaft border, there is a confide- rable quantity of ground planted } and fome fpots which are ftill in a ftate of nature. The proportion of what is unculti- vated is comparatively fmall ; and every year (erves to di- minifh it. The whole furface, will, nioft probably, in a few years, be either corn fields, or plantations* Thofc few fjjMJts on the weft fide, which have hitherto been neglefbed, are covered ctiiefly with furze and broom ; and thofe of the fame dcfcriptlon, on the eaft, chiefly with dwarf-heath.

Qf Scone^ 67

&i/.^-Tn fomc places, cfpccially, ncvc the Tay, the foil is a ftrong rich clay ^ in others, it is light and gravelly ; and ia others, good loam. Every fort of foil in the pariih ha^ been much improved by the ufe of lime, and the praiSlioe oi fummer fallowing. On the richer lands, are raifed goo4 crops of wheat, barley, oats, peafe and beans, flax, grai^, cabbages, potatoes and turnip. The lighter lands arc not fuppofed to be fo well fuited to the culture of wheat \ but they afibrd all the other produdlions which h^YC been v^vi^ , tioned. .«

Climatc-^Yrom the high (ituation of this pariih, relatively t to the grounds on the oppofite fide of the Tay, it might per- haps be expe£%ed, that the cold (hould be more fenGbly fdt here, than in the vicinity \ yet this is not the cafe, except \ perhaps on the higher gropnds, towards the eaftern bounda^ . ry. The greater part of the parifh has a fitie fouth-weftem expofure ; the higher grounds fhelter the lower i and feveral plantations on the north and call, afford a confiderable fliel* ter to almoft the whole.

That chain of hills, which (hcltcr the Carfe of Gowrie» and which, on die north fide, reach within a (hort fpa^e of . the fouth border of tbif pariQi, feryes as a barrier to thofe mids, which, coming up the Tay from the fea, frequently . fpread themfelves over a great pare of the neighbouring pa- riOies ; the fame hills attrad thofe vapours, which are ex- haled from the lUrface of the <(artb| in the fouth-eaft part of the pariih ; the current of air, produced by the running of . the Tay, is the caufe of a fimilar effeft, all along the weft border \ and the natural inequality of the furface, in moft places, together with the drains which have been made, car- ry off both the water which arifes from fprings, and that which falls down in (bowers- .

I a The

1

68 Statijlical Account

Th^ air therefore is upon the whole, mild and dry. A late phyfician, much and.juiUy reputed for his (kill in his profeCf fion, had fuch an opinion of the falubrity of the air of Scone, that he ufed to call this parifli the Montpelicr ^f Perth* fliire,

Z)i/?^/2'/.— The inhabitants are affliQed with no peculiaf difeafes, but in general enjoy a very great fhare of health | though, there are few or no inftances amongft them of re« rnarkable longevity. The cafe of three ladies, fiftcrsj whq died fome years ago, was fingulan The eldell lired to the 0ge of 919 the youngeft to 87, and the other to 88 or 69* Fevers are rare. The ague is naw fcarcely heard of, Rheu* matifm is the mod frequent complaint \ and, what is very re* markable, was little known till \v^ithin the lad 40 or 50 years^ I Whether this has been owing to a change in the clothing of food of the inhabitants, to fome change in the atmofphcre, ot to all thefe circumftances combined with otbe^ ca\ifes, is not 9ifcertained.

The piejudices of the greater part of the people againft inov elation for the fmall pox, have prevented this falutary prac- tice from becoming general ; though they have every argu^ ment from experience in its favour, as fcarcely any of thofp children who have been inoculated, have died-

^iv^rj.— There are two brooks9 which ferve three meal* ir.ilns, a faw-miln, and a waull^-miln; and produce a fmall fort of irout. But the Tay is the only riveif in the parifli. The tide flows about a mile above the bridge of Perth, oppofite to the houfe of Scone, and to this place the river is navigable by large boats. Above this, it becomes ihallow and rapid \ .but here it is deep and placid, like a floating mirror, re* fltfting the beautiful fcencry on its banks. It has beeu

(aid,

ef Scone. 6^

fftid, ihat &o other river in Britain difchargcf more frcfh water into the fea than the Ta^, It produces eel, foinc perch and pike, and four or five different forts of trout in great abundance^ fome of which have a fine flavour^ and weigh, at an average, about two pounds. But the moft valuable fifli which it affbrd$, is falmon, which i^ reckoned excellenti and of which the greater part is ex* ported to London and the foreign markets. The fifliings are chie6y rented of the proprietors by the merchints of Penh, ^wrho employ the fifliermen. There are five difTcrenc filhings belonging to the parifh, which occupy 13 boats and 30 fifhermen. Tiie fifhing feafon is from the 29th of November, to the 26th of Auguft ; but both the falmon and the finefl: trout are fuppofed to be in their greateft perfeftion in the month of May. The trout, hav^ ing never been appropriated, affords excellent fporc to the gentlemen, who are fond of angling.

The Tay alfo abounds in the pearl- oyften Numbers of pearls were iifhed out of it about thirty- five years >g9-

^oflmfj.-^Therc arc fix or feven quarries of excellent free ftone. In fome of thefe, the (lone is of a reddifli, and in others of a gray or azure colour. They differ alfo in degrees of hardntfs and finenefs $ but all of them are fit for the purpofcs of building.

Population. — The population- of this pariih has encreafed very much within the laft twelve years, and is ftill encreafing. Scarcely can houfes be built fail enough to accommodate thofc who want them.

This has been owing to feveral caufes. Before the end of tbc year 17^2, our manufadurers had for fcveral year$^ been'

ia

70

StatiJHcal Account

{n a more flourifhing condition, than at any fomter periofI« This encouraged young people to n^arry ; a bleach- field and cottonmilly eftabliflied atStormont field, added about loo to the number of inhabitants ; and a great many new houfet being built in the vilJAgc of Scone, the conftant employment given to workman and labourers, and the facility of bringing up a family, encouraged ftran^crs to fettle in it. The num- ber of the people has been cncreafed from thefe caufesj and neither fcarcitjr, epidemical difeafeS| nor crimes, have hithei^ to diminilhed it.

Population Tabk. The ifumber qf fouls, is 1442 ■ between 20 and

Males Females

726 716 Inhabitants of villages 840

■ ■ of the country 602 Annual average of births

for the laft 10 years 49

■ of deaths 20 I of marriages 14 fhe proportion of the annual

births to the whole popula- tion, is nearly as i, to 36, ii — of (lie annual deaths

to the whole population, a^

l,t0 72,

■, of the annual mar-

riages to the whole popul*^'* lion, as - i> to 103,

The number of fouls under 10 years of age 374

SO

66<f

between 50 and

70

So

between 70 and l)etween (!p and

«3^

90

Farmers families Heritors refidcnt Do. i^on-refiderU

18

%

7 4 f*euars pofleiling frqm I^alf ah

acre of land^ to ^ acrea 25

Pendiclers - - y

Inhabited houfes - 230

.({oufes builc within thefe 10

years - , $3

Qld do. pulled down within

thefe 10 years • '22 Married perfons • 548

between 10 and 20 Bat<;helor8 above cq

'^ Unmarried

9f SconCi

P

Unmarried women above

Baker * •

I

45

-

4

Gardeners

4

Vfidbwers -

«

21

Apprentices -

14

Widows

-

30

Male-fervants

95

Members of the Eftablifhed

Female do. - -

89

church

-

864

Poor on the roll

12

Seccdcrt

-

510

Young perfons educated

40

Catholics

-

5

Flax dreflers

i

Epifcopaiians

•

3

Labourers

24

Shopkeepers

-

3

Fiftjermen

30

Pttblic houfes

•

7

Male bleachers •

30

Procurator (or Attorney]

I

Female do. «

20

Smiths

-

8

Boys, cotton fpinnera

25

Mafons

i*

8

Girls do.

«5

Carpenters

-

16

Boats

>3

Weavers

«

70

Carts

73

Shoemakers

-

8

Ploughs

58

Taylors

• -

9

Draught horfes

200

Meal-millers

•

3

Saddle do.. • -

3

Saw-ffliUer

i*

I

Cattle

58<S

Waulkcr

*

c

Sheep

160

In the above table, the Male and Female fcrvants are not Jlftinguifhed by any thing but their fex ^ becaufe all of thcm^ except a few, are employed oocafionally either in the houfe, or in the fields.

Prices. The rent of arable land is from to to 30 (hil- * lings an acre. * * ■ Of a cottage in the country, with 6

roods of ground for a garden L. 1:5.

■■ Of a room, in the viJhjge of Scone, 16 feet by i6, with the faine quantity of garden ground * «• L. i : io«

• Price

J2 Statijlical Account

Price of 1 fuch rooms with double the

quantity 6f ground - . L. 3 J d<

And fo on in proportion to the fize of the dvirclling and aground*

The annual v^ages of a male fcrvant, who has board and lodging, is from L. 8 to 10^ or even 12} of a feitikle do. from L. 3, to 4.

, School fees pet^ quaftef, fot -* of a fbmale do. from jd to

teaching Englifh is - ^ 8d

Writing - is6d -^ of boys and girls, cotton

Arithmetic: and Latin 2s fpinners, from 3d to 6d

Wages of a man for the har- .^^ of a woman for weeding^^

veft, from 20s to a8s &c. from 5d to 8d

---of a woman, from 16s to The price of beft horfes, is

203 - from L. 20 to 2^

— of a labourer /^r day is — * of inferior, from L. 10 to

— ofafiiherman -is - •<• i^

— of a carpenter is 3d — of bed cattle, about L. 10

— of a brictlayet - 2s — of inferior from L. 5. to

— of a mafon * rs 8d - - L. 7 : 10 -7- of a taybr, who receives — ^ of a (heep, from 363 10409

hij5 vitlu^ls ^ - 8d <— of a fow, from 25s to 30s

— of a male bleacher, from — of a lamb, from los to 123

lod to IS -^ of a hive of bees, L. i : i

Trcduclhns^ — ^The vegetable and animal produflions are pretty much the fame here, as in moft places of the lowlands of Scojiland. As the parifh exports annually two thirds of its corn, it prpduces as much in one year, as fhould ferve fof the internal confumption of three. Mod of the old wood, amongft ^vhich arc fomc^very 5ne trees, was planted by 3 the

of Scone. 73

the Vifcoant of Stormont, grandfather of the prefent Earl of Mansfield, about feventjr years ago. Three haw'thorn trees at the houfe of Kinkarochie are remarltable for their (ize. The largeft covers with its top a circlci on the eaftb, 14 jards in diameter ; and iheafures round the middle of the trunk, 9 feet. The old wood confifts chiefly of Scotch firs^ planes, a(hes, elms, and horfe chefnuts. The firs have been of the greateft fervice for building* fiiel, and other purpofes. The trecs^ in the young plantations, are the Scotch fir, the larch, the fpruce fir, and various other forts. All of them were planted within the laft 18 years,* and are in a verj thriving ftattS.

The breed of horfes and cattle has of late been much improved; partly by their being better fed, and partly by a better kind being introduced. The Cduntefs of Mansfield, a patronefs df hufbandfy, has led the way, by introducing a breed of cattle, remarkable for iheir fize ind ihape. Her Ladyfhip, has alfo tcirned her attention towards improving the breed of (heep, by bringing to that extenfive lawn, inl which the houfe of Scone is fituated, a flock, partly of the Warwick- (hire breed, fo much efteemed for their carcafes^ and partly of the S>pani{h, fo remarkable for the finenefs of their wool. The Englifh breed anfwers very well ; but the experiment upon the Spanifh has not yet been fully made. Except 30 or 40, dill the Sieep in the pari(h are hti Lady* jhip's property.

Agriculture.'^t appears from the face of the country, irom thofe rough grounds and moor-lands, which witl^in a few years, have been converted into beautiful and fer« tile corn-fields, that modern h^fbahdry is well uaderftood by the fanners. Some of them adopt the following rotation 6f crops ; fallow, wheat", peafe and beans, or bthejf grectt

Vol, XVm. I? , crbp,

^4 Statijttcal Account

cropi barkyi grafs, and laftljr oits. Others diticte their farms into five, inftcad of fix parts : The firft part is^ partly fallow, and partly a green crop ; the fecond is under wheat and barley, with grafs feeds ; the third and fourth, are un- der grafs ; and the fifth, under oats. And then the rotation begins again with fallow, or a green crop.

The new plough, ufed here, is confidered as an improre^ ment upon Small's. It has an iron head foV the fock, inftead of hating the fock upon the (heath ; and the mould-board, which is caft iron, is conrex inftead of being concare. The Scotch plough alfa i« ftill ufed. Flax and potatoes are raifed in confiderable quantities. Cabbage and turnip alfo are faifed for feeding cattle ^ but chiefly for rearing young ftock. Every family almoft now feeds a pig with potatoes and a lit- tle com ; the bacon of which eats very well with their pota- toes ; but they hare not yet tearnt to ufe turnip for culinary purpofes.

Xhere are 2 farms about 4CO acres, 4 above 200, 6 between 100 and 200, a much greater number from 60 to 100, and a ftill greyer number of pendicles * ; fome of which are rented by mechanics, who, befides attending to their ground, follow alfo their proper occupations. The fmall farmers or pendi- clers fell little or none of their corn. Their wives, daughters and maid-fervants fpin the flax raifed on the farm ; and the money which the yarn brings, pays the rent. It is furprifing how fome of thefe fmall tenants, poflcffing only about 12 or 14

acres,

* Pendicles are fmall portions of land, which do not enable the occupier f keep horfcs fnfficient for its cultiVation, for which he either depends on the al&ftance of the fanners in the Ticinity, or on the help of his oeighboais who are in the fame fituation, giving them the fame aififtance in his tunu He feldtm keeps more than one borfe, and one or p&rhaps two coif^a.

of Scone. 75

fcresy (hoald be able to maintain a family of nearly as many perfons i and yety upon entering their cottages, one generally. finds them fnug and comfortable, and is pleafed with feeing a group of happy faces* Many of them, however, have either the profits of tradefmen, or work as day labourers. It has beeo more common here to unite the fmall, than to divide the larger farms.. The population is ufually much greater, where the farms are fmall, than where they are large ; yet, the union of farms has not diminifhed the num« ber of the inhabitants of this parifh * ; the village of Scone and Stormont-field furniihing them both with 'habitations and employment.

If the proprietors of the foil, who difpoflefs the fmall to make room for the greater farmers, would build villages on their eftates, the population would feldom be diminifhed ir^ any fituation ; the wealth and comfort of the people would increafe in proportion to the fuperior cultivation of the land;' the farmers would find a market for a great part of their prtoduce at home, and would have day labourers at com<« mand ; and the proprietors themfelves would derive advan« tages from the villages^ far beyond the expence of etching - them,

IfHlofunw^K great part of the parifti is inclofed \ and, on fome farms, young hedges of hawthorn are railing, with, greater attention than was formerly given to this kind of im« provement. In the higher lands, the benefit of inclofures is ful« ly underftoodf but in fome of the lower, fencing by hedges and dykes is difapproved of, the foil not admitting of pafture.

K 2 ExporU.

* The immber of ibols in the piiiih at preleiit, it •

The popnlation in 1 755 was •

The number ef inhabitinta increafcd «

©

y6 Stdtijiical Account

Exports. — ^This parifh exports annually two thirds of itf corn, befldes cattle, a few (heep and fwine, (but no horfes), a conGderable quantity of falmon, linen cloth, and free^ftone, and different articlea of provifion. It imports lime, coals, iron, ropes, and feveral other articles of provifion and cIoath« ' ing ; but no meal, and no grain, excepting what is neceiTary for change of feed. ""^

Cardeniftg. — Several of th« gentlemcns gardens arc elegant, particularly the Carl of Mansfield's ; and moft of them ar^ well flocked with vegetables, and fruit trees, and buflies. And not only the handicraftsmen, at their leifure hours, bu^ the farmers, begin to pay more attention to their gardens than formerly ; a certain indication of the thriving ftate of this pan of the country, men commonly attending, firft, to what is neceflary, and then tp what is commodious and ornamental. Indeed, the appearance both of the country and the people, compared with what it was twenty years agOj^ plainly (how, that they are f* growing pcher and happier*' ; an evident proof of the excellence of that conftitution of government, under which we have the good foftune to live.

Church and School. — The church is a very handfome moderi^ building,, and is much decorated by an ancient family feat of very curious- workmanfliip belonging to the Earl oF Manf- field. It was built in the year 17845 the manfe in the year 1743; and the latter has been frequently repaired. The living, including the glebe, is about L. 106 Sterling. The liight Hon. the Earl of Mansfield is patron. The prefent incumbent, the Rev. Mr John Wright, is married, and has five children *. Befides, the parifh church, there is alfo a

meeting-

• Mr Wright, who wis lon^ in bad health, died fince this account waJ written.

of Scone. «y

ineetmg*hottfe, belonging to the Burghcr-Seccders. Th^ fchoolmafter has a good houfe, which ferves him both for a fchool and a dwellinghoufe. His falary as fchoolmafler^ and his emoluments as feffion clerk, amount together to L. 13 : 4 : 9* Sterling. The reft of his income depends on the fees he receives from his fcholars. The church, meeting-houfe> and fchool are in the village of Scone ; which is ornamented alfo- with a market crofs, formerly a handfome one^ but now much injured by the hand of time*

State of the Poor. — The money which fupports the poor, is annually abput L. a6 Sterlbgt It arifes from funds in QQoney ^nd heritable property^ from dues at deaths and marriages,, and from the weekly colleAions at the churchr 4oor. Th$ poor on the pari(h lift, are, at an average, abque twelve. They receive monthly 3s. for their fupport; but^ others alfo receive pcgafionai fupply. There are no begging' poor in the pari(b. /

In the year 178:^, the crop was very bad and much in^* jured. But then, the prefent Earl of Mansfield, attentive to the fituation of the parifb) fent 30 quarters of feed corn, %o be diftributed amongft his tenants for the fame quantity of the produce in return ; and alfo L. 30 Sterling to be diftri- buted amongft ^he poor of the pariQi ; though this was not the only time, they have experienced his bounty; fums, Dearly of th^ fame yalue^ being frequently fent them by his fjordihip.

f>uL — In fummer, the chief fuel is furze, broom, and the feedings of the young plantations 5 in winter, coals, which are bought at Perth and Bridge-end, a village on* the fide of thcTay, oppofite to Perth, at 38. 6d. the boll of 40 ftoncs ^flfprdupois weight.

Villages.

98 StatiJUcal Account

' Fillagis.'^Thtxt are a number of villages. Four of the more populous contain from 55 to 70 fouls. Scone is the mod remarkable* It ftands in a plain relatiyelf high except on the eaft ; and, though iheltered, is fufficiently airj and healthful. It conGfts of 2 ftreets and feveral lanes, -one of theftreetf, being remarkably wide^ ferves for a market place* A conCderable part of it has been either built or rebuilt with- in the laft 10 years. The new houfes are fubftantial and neat; and many of them contain feveral families. Tb^ number of fouls in the village is 466.

Stmmont'fiild BUach-Jield^'^This place, prefently foffklkd fcy Meffirs Thomas and John Barland, had its name changed from Cc^nhaugh, to Stormont field, in honour of the pro* prietor, the Earl of Mansfield, formerly known by his title of Viicountof 'Stormont. It is fitaated on the Tay, exadly oppofite to Luncarty^ and in a pleafant field, along the fide of the river, confiding of about 130 acres. A canal, about 3 miles in length, and 18 feet in breadth, cut, at a very great expence, through fteep banks of the Tay, rock*marIe and whin ftone, always furniihes it with an abundant fttpply of excellent water from the river. A fmall canal alfo from the brook of Inverbuift» aiToirds an occafionai fupply ; and the bleaching grounds are of a fine dry foil, and have an excellent expofure. Adjoining to the bleaching- miln, is a miln for Spinning cotton, upon a fmall fcale. The houfe for the ma- chinery, is a large fi;ru£ture, fubdantially built, of free-ftone^i and noble in its appearance. Some of the other houfes are elegant ; and all of them remarkably neat and commodious.

Befides the fall of water, which, at prefent, drives three wheels, there are likewife three other feparate falls ; one of eight feet, and two of four, equalj by the command of water,

to

i>f Scone. 79

(btum aity wdgbt of ttiachinery; which, when full j occu- pied, will be an important addition to the indaftry, and po- pulation of the parifli ; the woric, it is prefumed, being as jret but in its infancy. There is here bleached, in a rery fatis- fa£tory manner, a great quantity of britannias, diapers, and CTery other fort of cotton and linen cloth. As labourers are fcarce in this part of the country, the only thing wanting to compleat Stormont-field, is an independent village, pro- perly laid out, which would be of the gieatc ft advantage, both to the proprietor, and the public at large. Mr William M'Alpin, a man of genius and enterprize, has the merit of having begun, and carried on to a conGderable length the canal and the buildings of this place.

There is befides bleached, by die pendiclers in the fumnwr feaibn, on a brook that runs through the parifli, fome liaea cloth. The only other manufadure carried on by the inha^ bitants is linen, which employs about 50 weavers. The rd: of their handicraftfmen are employed either in weaviag hottfe*hold cloth, or in working for mailers in Perth.

Bridges and Raads.^^The roads and bridges were formerly made and repaired by the ftatute labour, fometimes literally czaded, and fometimes commuted into money; but this method being found infufficient for the great roads, and turnpike ads being obtained, the roads will foon be very good. Two turnpike roads interfering the parilh, (and its vicinity to Perth,) but not yet tomplcatcd, arc juftly con- fidered by the inliabitants, as very great advantages.

Eminent Jlf^/i.— It is very probable, that the f;»mous John

Hay^ alias John de Luce, chief of the Hay's, was a native of

this parifli. The inhabitants ftill point to the village, anl

even to the veftiges of the houfc, in which he livedo wben»

3 iil^

ilo Statifticdl Account

like a patriot indeed) he haftened from the plough, to dri^a the Danes from his native land.

But it is certain, that it can boaft of having given birth to £he late very eminent Earl of Mansfield* Tet, from what appeared in the Newfpapers, on the death of that Nobleman^ It (bould feemi that, as feven cities contended for the birth of Horner^ i, Neighbouring pariih is inclined to difpute with it that honoiir. What perhaps may have in part contributed to give rife to the dpinidn, that he was born in Perth, is the following Circumftance; The Vifcount of Stormont, hi$ father^ had a houfe iil thait town, in which the family fome- times refided; And h was in the public grammar fchool of Penh, that the £arl^ after having been fometime undtf ^tjl^ care of a private tutor, received the rudiments of his edu- jcation. It would be a proud didin&ion to afny fchool, io have given even the elements 6f knowledge to a man, who Was certainly one of the mbfl eminent perfonages whom this country has evet produced sr and to whom, as Lord Chef* terfield iays in one of his letters to' his fo^,* i numerous and noify houfe of commons, would liften with fuch atten* tion, that one might haVe heard a pin fall, when he waitf fpeaking*

Of the People. — It has been frcqucridy obfcrved^ that tha inhabitants of the parhh of Scone were diftinguiflied, not only by the decency of their drefs and appearance, but by^ ^e propriety of their manners and behaviour. The izQt may he accounted for ^ in part, from the example of the family of Stormont, who were patterns of religion and good morals, as well as decorous manners ^ and in part, from the powerful miniftry of a very worthy man, who was a lofig time their t»aftor ; iraufcs, which, in a greater or lefs degree, will al- >vays influence the morals of cbe people. The general cha-

taiOc^

of Sconi. 8i

1n€kef of the prefent race is fobrietji induftry, and oecotiomy4 The lower clafs are humane, ciril, obliging, and hofpitable. . The rich are more ; They are genteel^ and well bred. But the beft proof of their morals is, that moft of them are in . comfortable, and many of them in a£3uent circumftances, ac- cording to their rank in life ; and that no inftance can be re- membered, in which any perfons of this pariih fufiered the punifliment of crimes.

The public houfes, (imply as fuch, would not, it is pro* fumed, have any bad influence on the morals of the people, were it not for the immcnfe quantities of whi(ky which they retail, in place of well-made iJe, which was formerly the only beverage. There are men m this part of the country^ who conGder the large diftilieries as gulphs, which fwallow . up prodigious Quantities of grain, and difcharge nothing but what icrves to deftroy the health and morals of the people % and they very much defire that the legiflature would devlfe fome way, which, feconded by the example of the grdat, (hould bring again into fa(hi6n the ufe of home-made fer- mented malt liquors, which the encouragement given to the .diftilieries has brought almoft entirely into difufe. '

jinisfmtiii.'^iJc^f th^ eaft boundary of. the parifh are two circles, faid to be druidical temples* They are within 14 yards of each other. Each tircle confifts of nine large whin ftones^ placed at unequal dift^nces j aiid each circle is feven yards in diameter.

The Roman miUtaty toad^ leading from the* camp at Ar« doch, to the bottom of the Grampians, enters this parifh on the weft, a little above a farm houfe on the Tay^ and pafTes through, till it leaves it on the north-eaft quarter..

On the other tide of the river, oppofite to the place where the road enters the parift^ ftood the ancient t03i(rn of Bertha,

Vol. XVIII. L now

tz Statifikal Aaouftt

jxom a liamlct, bearing tfcat name ; and it ia bUf Aai tlMve^ in foRKKT timcS) there was a nridge cfer the mcs, zmi that fevcffal lafge beanie of oak^ jet t» be (cen under the watct » fofmed a pavt of it.

About a qoavter of a mile up the ri^er feom this place, are the veftiges, it is fuppofed^ ^t an encampment. tFis a fpot of gnmnd inclofed, on the weft, by the Tay; and on die other fideSi bj a fofle. Its figure is nearly an oblong, and its cifonnfcfence, about 535 yards. A (mail brook runs tiupsugh it; and on the fbuthlBde of this btook, about.jo yards op fpom die rirer, ate the veftiges of a fbrtificationi called the Stiver caftle I ptobably, from avulgaf idea* that money was- hii( in it. This place is fituated, nearly about half way be>- tween the Roman military voad, and a place on the oppofitr fide of the rirev, whcte the battle of Luncavty was fought between the Danes and the Scots. But time, and the vecent operations of the plough, have now almofl obliterated thofe monuments of ancient times.

Plsi^ps the iwftiges of the famous John Hay's howTe, and the crofs of Scone, maybe clafied among the antiquities* The former is nothing but the remains of a aottage, a Iktk raifed above the furface of the earth, and coTcred with grafs» The- latter is a narrow upright ftone, thirteen feet high, orna- mented ^ the top, and placed in aa o£lagonaI ftone, that refts on a quadrangular iRght of fteps»

But what excites the curiofity of erery peiibn who haa been intereftcd in reading the hiftory of Scotland^ and attii»£it the attention of almoft every traveller, is Scone. This being anciently the refictenceof ott« kings, and the fcene of the moft interefting and fplendid aftions, fome account of it muft be expefted by the reader. At the Reformation tho mob, from Dundee and Perth^ impelled' by their avecnomtQ Popery^ and by private refenimeni:, as^well as^the hope of

booty.

of Scone* 8|

i>oot7» fpoiled and kurnt both the ancicttt Abbey and Palace \ The Abbey waU» from the foundations which hare beca dug «p» is fappofed to have iodofed a fpaqe of la acres.

^ This Abbey, fays Spottifwood, was founded by Alcsan- ^ der the fifft, 1 1 14» and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, ^ and St. Michael. It was the place where ottr kings were ^ accnfiomcd to be crowned, and where the &tal maibk ** chair, now at Weftminfter, was afually kept* U former* ^ ly belonged to the Culdees, if we tmft George Buchanan^ ^ and fereral other authors ; and it was erected into a tem« ^ poral lordfliip, in favour of' Sir David Murray, « cadet of ^ the family of Tuliibardine, in the jt%fH6o4'*f.

It IS uncertain whether the prefent hdufe of Scone, a feat of the Earl of Mansfield, ftands on any part of the founda- ' tlofls of the former buildings. Two lines of a Scotch poets a native of Perth ^, who had every opportunity of informing himfelf with regard to this parti^ylari would lead a perfon to fuppofe, that it does.

^t we thus i^*J, eur targe d^fweetlf pafi^ Bj Sc9if/s fair F^ace^ finietimi Abbey was.

It is about a mile due north, from the town of Perth. 1% fiands upon a piece of riGng ground, about half a mile from the Tay; and is fituated in the midft of an extenfive lawn, which flopes gradually towards the river.

Round the houfe, except on the fouth wed, where it is open, runs a (hrubery and young plantation, interfedied with fopentine gravel walks; and intermitted with old trees,

L 2 ainong

* llnox's ICftory of the Refofmatioiu

t Spottifwood*s WSban of Religions Koufes.

} Mr Heiuy A4aa£>0if-»Se< Cant's Hiftorf wf P^nlu

94 Statijiicttl J^count

tmong the largcft and fincft in the country. Immediately before it, and on each (ide, the verdant furface of the lawn fpreads itfelf, covered with daifies, and variegated with trees planted fingly, and in clumps.

This fcenCy bounded by the river, which flows gently be- neath, is admired by all ftrangers who vifit this country ; and is greatly heightened by the beauty and variety of the banks of the river, as far as Perth.

Nothing can be more delightful than the profpe£^ from the houfe, to the weft ward. On the left hand j at the dif- tance of two or three miles, the hills above the Tay, and the Earn, feem to unite, forming a vaft theatre, decorated with plantations^ and corn-fields. On the right, at the diftance of fifteen miles, the Grampian mountains afliime a fimilar. form; and in the middle, induftry and {kill have given a gay and cultivated afpefl, to a very extepfive tra£l of country.

The houfe itfelf is in that ftile of architedure which pre? ▼ailed about a century and a half ago ; which gives it a cer- tain noble and venerable air, more pleafing to men of genuine tafte than the moft fini{hed modern buildings. It i$ about 70 yards in length, and 35 in breadth. The gallery which is on the eaft fide, is 140 feet long. The ceiling is of timber, and arched. On the one fide of it is painted the hunting of a ftag in all its diflireiit ftages ; on the other are reprefented the exercife of hawking, the hunting of the wild boar and the wild bull. It is faid that king James the fixth appears in every ^cenc ; that the groupes of figures attending him are the no- bles of the court 5 and that all of them are exa£V reprefcnta- tions of the originals. The fpaces between the different fcenes are filled up with the arms 0/ the family, with fruit and flower pieces and other ornaments. In the opinion of artifts, the de^gn in thefe paintings is good, and the faces

animated.

of Scone. 85-

animated. The colours appear to hare been vivid } but bf accidents and the wade of time the whole has fuffered confix derable damage.

In a chamber off the north end of the gallery is the canopy of fiate, nfed by the prefentEarl of Mansfieldi when ambafla- dor at the court of Vcrfaillcs, now converted into a bed ; and in another off the fouth end, which is called the king's room, is a bed of damafk fattin of a light orange colour, and fcveral antique chairs covered with the fame fort of cloth. In a chamber on the weft fide of the houfe, which is called the Queen's room, is a bed of (lowered crimfon velvet, faid to kave been the work of Queen Mary, when a prlfoncr in the caftle of Lochleven. Thefe chambers, as well as the drawin<; toom, are decorated with marble chimney pieces, with hang* ings of fine tapeftry, with portraits of the anccftors and rela- tions of the family, and of other great perfonages who lived in former times; and with othier forts of painting, forae of which, though injured by the hand of time, are ftill admired. The dining-room is fpacious and elegant. In this room ip a fuperb marble chimney-piece, on the upper part of which are Ihc arms of Britain, and on the lower thofe of the family of Stovmont ; and at one end of it are two very elegant full length portraits of their prcfent majeftics, drawn in their royal robes, and as large as the life.

About 100 yards due eaft from the fouth eaft comer of the boufe are the veftiges of the old abbey church; but fuch changes does time introduce, that, on that fpot where our ancient kings were crowned, there now grows a clump of trees.

Between 60 and 70 yards north from this place is what is Tfulgafly called the Boot-hill. It is likewife called Omnis terra, or Every man's land. Hume in his hiftory of the Dou- glaiTcs gives us the origin of this name, *^ that when Robert

« Bruce

86 StatiJHcal Account

^ Bruce was crowned 27th March 13069 Sir James, the Sth ^< Lord Douglas, affifted, and caft into a heap, as did the o- ** ther Barons, a quantity of earth of his lands of Douglas ; ^ which, making a little hill, is called Omnis terra. This *' was the cuftom of thofe times, bj Mrihich homage, thef ** who held the king of Scotland fupreme under God were ^ diftinguiflied from others. It is faid that the Barons of ^ Scotland could receive inveftiture of their landsaslawfully by ** deK?ering earth and ftone from this fpot, as from their own ^ lands. We are informed aifo, that anciently tfic conven- ^ tions of the nobles were held in this place ^.

The tradition of the people of the pariih conqeming the Boot- hill is, that at the coronation of a king, every man who affifted brought fo much earth in his boots, that every maa might fee the king crowned, (landing on his own land ; and that afterwards, they call the earth out of their boots on this hill, upon which account it obtained the names of Boot4^iU and Omnis terra. But, perhaps. Boot-hill is -a corruption of Moot hill or Mute-hill i which is probably the fame with the Saxon ^ord, folk*mote, and may fignify the hill of mee^ting* The people in the Highlands, it is faid, call the Boot-hill, at this day, Tom-a-mhoid, i. e. the hill where juftice is adminil^ tered. On the Boot-hill David, ift vifcount of Stormont, built an elegant parifh church about the year 1624, when the old abbey church or what remained of it fell. But, a few years ago, this church wanting repairs, and being infuificient ta accommodate the parifhioners, was> except, the aifle, thrown down, and the prefent parifh church built in the village of Scone.

On the north wall of this aifle is a very fkzt^lj marble mo«

nument

« CanVs hiftory of Pertb,

4f Scone. •;

nument ereded t& die memory of David, fitft ^fcooot •f StormoBt. It feems to have been imended for aa altar-piecet aad to reprefient the in(l(fe of a cha9cl or oratory. In the middle, towards the lower part of it^ is a ftatue of his Lord* Ihtp as large as the life, dad in amooar, koeeUnj^ on a cufluoa at aa altar^ s book lying open before him, and the palms of his hands jpinedy as if eameftly engaged in devotion^ On ei« tfacr fide is a man in armour, fbmewhat fmaller than the Uje^ the one (aid to be the Marquis of TuIIibardine, the other the Earl Marefchall. Abore thefe are feveral emUemaiacal fi« gures ; towards the top are the arms of die family ; and, over aU^ an angpl,, who feems to look down< with appro* botion.

On the eaft wall is an elegant monument of blue and white marble^ ere^ed in honour of Lady Stormont, firft Lady to the pKient Earl of Mansfield. On z pedeltal, in a marble nitch in the wait, ftands a laige urn of white marble, in whkh it inclofed the Lady's heart embalmed ; and below, on die pe^ deftal, k remarkably elegant and pathetic Latin infcription, expreffive of the Lady's great worthy and the regret occafion- ed by her death y which does much honour, net only to llie g^enius^ and erudition, but to the heart, of its noble ^udibr*

As we adraace by a gtarel walk from the houfe to the ea(U ward, we are agreeably furprifed to find ourfelres, on entering &e fiirubery, in the niidft of a fmali lawn of a circular fbrm^ iurrounded by (hrubs and trees of unequal height, which, to- gether with the furface of the earthy exhibit the appearance of a crowded amphitheatre. Here, and all along the Ihrubery and young plantation, luxuriant nature may be feen to wan* ton in all the richnefs,. variety and gaiety of foliage. So rich is the foil, that fome of the trees, though planted wilhia tfaefi: nine years, have attained the height of thirty feet*

a To

8 8 • Statijlicdl Accdunt

To the (outhward of this lawn is the kitchen gardcfi, ddU tiched with,all forts of culinary vegetables, with fruit trees and bufhes, and ornamented with walks and flowers. On thcf - weft fide of it is a romantic bower, which immediately calls to our remembrance the fair Rofamoild's.

From the garden we pafs into the nurfcry. It is an oblong park of about 2 acres^ having a fine fouthern expofure, and being furroundcd by a number of tall and ftately trees, which, at the fante time that they {h::lter the young plants^ give the place a remarkably pleafing and venerable air.

On the fouth of the nurfcry is a hollow or den, planted ovk . each fide nt^ich (htUbs and forell trees, and enlivened by at fmall brook, which runs through it. Along the fide of thi9 brook is a winding gravel walk, which leads to the lawn, in which the palace is fituated.

As the ground rifes, the fpe^iaftor^ on the oppofite fide of the Tay, fees every objcft diftinftly, round, and fweUing to the eye*

' Aticuiit Cu^om.^'ivcTj yeat on Shrove«Tucfday, ttc bat- chelors and married men drew themfelves up at the crofs of Scone on oppofite fides. A ball was then thrown up, and they played from 2 o'clock till fun fct. The game was this* He who, at any time got the ball into his hands, run with it till overtaken by one of the oppofite party, and then, if hef could fliake hinifclf loofe from thofe on the oppofite fide, wiio feized him, he run on : if not, he threw the ball from him, unlcfs it was wrefled from him by the other party ; butf no pcrfon was allowed to kick it. The obje£l of the married men was to hang it, i. e. to put it three times into a fmall hole in the moor, the dool or limit on the otie hand ; that of the batchelors was to drown it, i. e^ to dip it three times into' a deep place in the river, the limit on the other. Tlkc party

ff Scone. %0^

who could efieft either of thefe objeds, won the game. But; if neither party wont the ball was cut into two equal parts at fun*fet. In the courfe of the play one might always fee (bme fcene of violence between the parties \ but, as the prorerb of this part, of the country expreflcs it, all was fair at the hall of Seme.

TUs cuftom is fuppofed to have had its origin in the days of chivalry. An Italians it b £iid» came into this part of the country^ challenging all the parilhes» under a certain penalty in cafe of declining his challenge. All the pariflies declined the challenge excepting Scone, which beat the foreigner ; and in commemoration of this gallant aftion the game was in- ftituted.

WhiUl the cuftom contini|ed| every man in the pari(h^ the gentry not excepted, was obliged to turn out and fupport the fide to which he belonged \ and the perfon who neglefted to do hts part on that occaCon was fined i but the cuftom being attended with certain i&conTenienciesi iraa Aboliihed a few yeassago.

Vol. XVnr. M NUMBER

^# Statijlical Account

NUMBER III. PARISH OF GARGUNNOCK.

(county of STIRLING.)

By the Rev. Mr James Robertson.

Situation.

/^ ARGUNNOCK, or Gargownno (as it is called in fomc ^^ old records), is fituated about fix miles weft of the town of Stirling, on the fouth fide of the Forth, by. which ifc is feparated from the parifiies of Kilmadock, and Kinkardine. It is bounded on the eaft and fouth, by the pariih of St. Ni« niansi and on the weft^ by Kippen, Balfron, and Fintry.

Name.'^lt feems of no great importance, toafcertain the pre* cife meaning of the word Gargownno. DifFerent ety mologifts will give different explanations of the names of places, in which there is often more imagination than knowledge. Gargownno is probably of Celtic origin ; defcriptive of the particular fpot, on the banks of the Forth^ where a fmall fort ftood, of which there is fome account in the Hiflory of Sir William Wallace. There we read of the * Peel of Gargownno, in

which

* Peel fignifics a fort.

of Gargunnock. gi

which an Englifli party was ftationed, to watch the paflag^ of the Frew, in its neighbourhood. Wallace with a few followers, took the fort by ftratagem in the night, while the Englifh were off their guard. The curious (Iranger majr be condu£ted to the ground which it once occupied \ and maj perhaps regret, that fcarcely a (tone is now left to tell its ftory. There is fomething fo yenerable in the abodes of our anceftors (though in ruins), that it is much to be wifhed, the frequent pra£^ice of carrying them away, for the purpofe of makmg dykes, or fences, was for ever abollihed. The remains of the bridge of OflTcrs, about a quarter of a mile weftward of the Peel, by which Wallace crofTed the Forth^ on his way to the ^ofs of lunkardine, are ftill in exiftence % and for fcveral years, it has been in agitation to rebuild it^ which would greatly facilitate the communication betwixt the parifhes on both fides of the river, and encourage tenants to give an additional rent for their farms. ' .

Extent. — This parifh extends about three miles and an half, from eait to weft, and from north to fouth it mea« fures fix.

Divjfion cf Lands. — All the eftatcs confift of muir, dry field, and carfe farms. On the fouth is the muir, which is part of a hiiiy tra<% of ground, ftretching out from Stirling to Dum- barton. That portion of the muir which belongs to this parifli, confifts of about 3000 acres, of which each heritor has a divifion, lying in a dire£t line with his other lands*

The muir has of late become an obje£t of greater conGde* ration, than in former periods* The demand for fuch paf- ture is much increafed ; and this has naturally led the pro- prietors to fet a higher value on it, than they were ac- cuiiomed to do a few years ago. Every one has his own

M 2 proportion

9^ Staiijlical Account

propbftion accurately mcafured; and Its worth is now )• well underftood^ that fomctimes it is no eafy matter to fettle a difpute about a few acres ; which perhaps^ in other times^ Would have gone for nothing. That part of the mmr, which IS connedcd with the eftate of Gargunnock, was let^ laft year, at almoft double the former rent ; but thb proprietor hath this year taken it into his own hands ; and hating pe- Vufed Sir John Sinclair's pamphlet on the fubjt£l, hath been induced to ftock it with thie Cheviot breed of fliccp. The ihepherd, who has been brought from that country, is hopeful the experiment will fucceed to a wifli, although aQ the Iheep farmers here are ftrongly prejudifed againit the fcheme ; and predidi its total failure, during the winter months. The fupe- rior quality, and price of the wool, is t fufficient juftificatioa of the attempt ; and if the plan is fuccefsful, it will certain- ly turn 0txt one of the moft beneficial of all our improvements* Men of property alone are qualified to engage in defignlft of this nature. If they are fuccefsful, they will foon be follow- ed by others ; and fociety at large will reap the good fruits of their labours. Or, fuppofing the undertaking (faould prove abortive, they are fufiicicntly able to fuftain the lofe. That man is dcferving of praife, who employs his fubftance in fuch laudable purfuits, as according to his bed judgement may be ufeful to the community, as well as to himfelf.

It would be of great advantage, both to the landlord and te- nant, If care was always taken to annex to the muirland farm fom'e low lying fields, of better pafture; as, where this is not the cafe, the farmer is often obliged to fend his flock da« ring the winter to a great diftancc, which muft be attended with inconvenience. Col. Eidingtoun of Gargunnock is well provided in this rcfpcft ; a circumftance favourable to his purpofe of rearing the Cheviot breed. The tenants of the muir of Boquhan, in this pariih, are alfo well accommo- dated.

$f ^argunmck. '93

Hated* Theypoflefs Tome good pafture grdund> immediatelf l>elow the hill, which adds much to the value of their farms, Ixith witfi refpea to convenience and profit. They arc at pains inever to overftock thofe fields, in fii'mmer ; and the Iheep find abundant provifion in them, in winter. By this miean^ the muir is covered by the (heep which it has bred ; and the farmer lays, that fuch as have been thus reared at llome, turn out much better than thofe which he hath brought, it any time, from other parts of the country.

It is feldom that any part of the muir is Cultivated for raif« ing grain. Attempts have been made this way, but moft fre- quently with litde or no fuccefs. A few acres near the houle of ^the farmer, have been fown with oats or barley, but a good crop was Aeverexpcf^ed.- The foil and climate forbid the ufe of the plough. Tboe are extenfive meadows ; which, after having *beeh covered with water in the winter, and had a little manure 'thrown upon the furface, produce abundance of excellent hay ; and hay- making, which is generally in the month of Auguft, ',u the principal harv'ell.

The whole of the niuir is without inhabitants, two familiea Incepted, which poSefs that part of it helongiiig to General Campbell of Boqufaan. Gargunnock-muir, as has befen ftat« ed above, is in the hands of its own proprietor ; but the other divifions are rented by Qieep farmers in neighbouring pa- ri(bes. To fefide at a diilance from the farm muft always he attended With difadvantage. It is impoflible the neceflary ilttentidn can be given to the flpck. Or, if the truft is com- mitted to a (hepherd, whofc viGts are only occafional, and who cahitot he conftantly at hand, efpecially amid the ftorms df winter, when much ejteftion is often reqttifite to fave the ihlmals ; it is eafy to fee the rifque muft be greater,' than when the mafter himfelf, or fome fuch interefted pcrfon, re- fides on the fpot.

The two muirland houfcs have nothing in appearance to re- commend

94 Statiftical Account

commend them; and yet the low roof, the fort of door which obliges a perfon for the fake of his head to make a pro- found bow as he walks in^ and the pitiful window, which fcarcely affords him fufficient light to {how him where he is, are inconveniencies foon forgotten, when he is placed by the fire Cde. The inhabitants though dwelling in a defert, have a civility of manners which does them honour. An old fol- dier who came to their door, was kindly received, and conti- nued for years to make their houfe his home« All the return they could expe£t, was a little amufement in the winter even- ings, while he rehearfed the ftory of (leges and battles*

If houfes for the entertainment of the public cannot be ezpeded in a country that is thinly inhabited, this difad vantage is fo much the lefs felt, that the people are remarkable for hofpitality. There is a kindnefs to the ftranger, which is f^ldom to be met with in larger and moTf^ polifhed focieties. If there is little ceremony, there is much good will*

In many places of the muir, there are roots of trees difco- vercd, of a large Gze, from which it appears to have been once a forcft.; but now a tree cannot be difcerned. While afcending the hill, a little copfe-wood may be perceived upon the edge of the rock, which the (heep cannot reach* .

The accefs to the muir is by nanow pafles called ballochs *. General Campbell of Boquhan has, lately, at no (mallexpenc^, made an excellent road from the ford of Frew, to his muir- land. This road, fix miles long, has opened up an eafy com- munication with the low country. Carts can now approach the heights to carry down peats, the fuel in common ufe, or to receive the dung that would other wife be thrown into the wa- ter,

* Balloch fignifies rttd.

of Gargunnoch ^ 95

tct. In forming this road he met with oppofition from the tenants of the muir. The many advantages derived from it have nov coiteAed their miftakes and prejudices, in op- pofing what was fo evidently intended for their benefit.

It is delightful to look down from the hills to the cultivated plain below. The profpeA is extenfive and beautifully diver«» fified. The windings of the Forth, the fertile valley, adorned on both fides with the feats of the proprietors, and ftretching from weft to eaft farther than the eye can reach ; and the range of mountainous country on the north and fouth, ferving as a wall to (belter it from the ftorms, form altogether one of the moft pidurefque fcenes in Scotland. The beauty of the landfcape is greatly ihcrcafed of late, by the very extraordinary improvements in the rtofs of Kincardine, belonging to Mr Drummond; where many families, encouraged by the liberal' terms held out to them by that gentleman, have fettled and live comfortably. As their number is daily increafing, and' each family is bound to remove a certain portion of the mofs yearly ; it is underftood,.that the period is at no great diftance, when upwards of a thoufand acres of carfe land will be added to his eftate, while in the mean time thofe who clear the ground of the mofs have an ample reward. The plan has fucceeded beyond every expcflation. There is no objea: of curiofity, in this part of the country, equal to the improve*' ments in the mofs of Kincardine.

The inhabitanrs of this pariOi look to the hills for iigns of the weather, and are feldom difappointed. The fctting fun, ihining on the face of the mountain, indicates fair weather ; while the fudden falling of mift on the top of it, foon after, he has arifen bright, is confidered as the fure mark of a rainy day.

Several rivulets flowing from different quarters of the muir, and at Itfngth uniting, form a fuccellion of cafcades, over

c'^iggy

9^ Statical ^(tcfOufU^

ccaggXrprecipicesy wUch aCter htvrj rainsi ate fcen and heard at a great diftance. The beft view of th^m U from tlie rifiog ground^ at tke weft end of the Tillage of Gar- gunnock*

Z)rj^/d!r— The dryfields occupy the latermediateL fy^pf^ bftween the muir and the carfe grounds. Their nart^e ffip» ppfes that they are not fubje A to th^e floodsi which frequent- ly corer the caifei a flat low-lying cotuitty. Befidei^ tbeic bping conCderably raifed above the IctcI of the carfei^ and theit gradual afcent to the bottom of the hilb^ which makes it ia^ poffiblp for water to remain upon their, furfacc ; thej ase al£» foe the moft part of fiich a light fandy foili af qwd^y ^ fo(bs the rain« an4 ihews the propriety of thp name, they bfcar.

Thi? B^tt& patt of the dryfields, ^ndI of 1^ lay ^fraft^ m.d wiUlj oremin with fui^e a^nd bjroo^i^ Fe«r o£ thqoi iproee fllbdiyidedor inclo£bd or cidturatedin apyconfidecable decree* ]?l^t0^.tipn8 v:ere not in ufc» and ^^(cepting on. the fides of the g{ten$» fcar<;ely any thiag l^^e ^ tree was to ^ feetu Bat liom. it is quite a neir fcenp. Afl th$ h^ritoj^' l^^c. qni^d in ^^ tcffxlfit pls^ of inclofing with dy^ and hedges* Ma^y^of the iVKuItiyatcd fpot^ su;c covered vith thriving plants^ions* The cOMQtiy is adorned and tl^e hj^M (heltered.

In giving fome account of ^e prcien^ ftate of the dp^^ldSf BqquhjiPt the property of LieujUi Jp^iQ F. Csi^pbeU clfiipis paoicnlai: attentian, as his untrearied exertion^^. in^ej^ecuting Hn« esKtenfite plan of improi^emeQlts foK thiirt^ea y/para paft,. have beautified and enriched his lands, in. x high dcgpiee*

The pbui has been catsicd on at an expcnce, exceeding a(

times the rental of the eftate ; and yet fuch expenditure is not

lp&, if by this means the ^ue of the giiound is propotfio^-

X t*l»

of Gargunnoek. 97

ably increafe<], and bread is given to the induftrious poor.

Piftyor fixty day labourerSi and occafionally a greater nun\ber,

axe enaployed in planting, hedging, draining^ ditchingi root*

ing out whatever might obilrufi the plough, making good

roads from farm to farm, and fencing the young hedges and

plantations againft injury from cattle. Twenty five pounds

' fterling per week, laid out in this manner, have not only

fiertUized many wafte and barren fields, but have alfo afforded

the means of fubfiAance to not a few families in the neigh-i

bourhood. Every one muft have fome amufement, and there

are amufements which pleafe not on reflexion ; but, when

agricultural improvements are viewed merely in the light of

an amufement, (though they were attended with no othec

advantage), it is certainly one of the moft rational that can be

coDceivedj and to a generous mind it mud give real pleafure^

as every (lep taken to cultivate the country, contributes to the

general advantage of the community.

A pamphlet lately publiOied by the General bimfelf^ en«

titled '* Notes refpe£ling the Situation and Improvements of

' ^* the Lands of Boquhan", dcfcribes in a lively, entertaining,

inftradive manner, the change produced on the dryfields^

fince^tbey came into his pofieflion.

Thefe improvements may not appear fo (biking to thofe who faw their commencement, and have been accuftomed to obferve their progrefs from day to day, as they muft to every one^ who may now return to Boquhan^ after an abfence of feveral years. StrangerS) as they pafs along, are charmed with the fccnc,'and furvey at leifure that rich variety of natural and artificial beauty which furrounds them.

There is only one thing regretted, by fome of the inhabit

tants. It Was necefTaryi to pull down a confiderable number

of cottages. Three or four fmall farms are thrown into one,

by which means, the population of the dry fields is diminiOi*

Vql.XVUL N ' ed:

pS Siatijlical Account

ed : but wh^n it is confidered that the lands are nowcultivat* ed to much better purpofe than formerly, that they are doubfy fruitful, and that wherever a family is pofiefied of a few acres only, even the neceiTaries of . life muft be procured with difficulty $ wlien to this it is added, that fuch perfons find no Worfe fubGflence as day-labourers, than as tenants of what do not merit the name of farms, it muft be owned, that the method which is now almoft univerfally adopted, of having fewer tenants, but larger farms, is of advantage to the country, while it is attended with no permanent lofs to any individual.

Better houfes are alfo obtained, than could be expeAed were the farm to confift of little more than twelve or twenty acres. And this muft uniformly be the cafe, wherever farms are extenfive, and let to fubftantial tenants; as when one farm-houfe only is required, where three or four perhaps were formerly ncceflary, the farmer will be better accommo- dated, in every refped, in a ftyle of elegance unknown in former times, and with lefs expence to the landlord.

Dr Moir of Leckie, whofe lands are fituated eaftward of Boquhan, has atfo commenced a plan of improvement, in the dry fields, by inclofing and planting fuch fpots of ground, as are but little adapted to cultivation. When the gentlemani whom he lately fucceeded, came to the eftate, it was incum- bered with, heavy debts. He inftantly refolved, that his in^ come whatever it might be, fliould exceed his cxpenditare» until he gave every one his own. He lived long enough to fee his laudable purpofe fulfilled. The plan he had laid down, however, made him unwilling to engage in any expen* fivt fcheme of improvement ; and when the period at length arrived, which brought him the accompliftiment of his wiflies^ he was then fo far advanced in life, as to find no enjoyment in purluits wbichrequire ail the vigour andaAivit/ of youth«

Oa

^ Gargunmck. 99

Oo this iccottoty it muft be acknowledged, that the lands of Leckie are far behind feme other cftates in the pariih, with rerpe<3 to thofe elegant improyements, which ufualiy diftin* guifli the teCdence of men of fortune and tafte.

The prefent proprietor has already done much to remedy this defe£l, and laft year, more than double the ufual num- ber of labourers was employed. The place is beginning to aflame a new afpe£t. A garden is to be immediately formed, in a field very favourable for foil and czpofure ; and wbea the family make the houfe of Leckie their dated abode, which it is expeded will foon happen,^ there Is every reafon • to believe that rapid progrefs will be made in many othcs ufeful and ornamental improvements.

About a mile to the eaftward of Leckie,. the rosd fronn. Stirling to Dumbarton paiTes over a rifing ground, and there* the dryfields of the barony of Gargunnock are viewed to ad« vantage. The fpe£btor is charmed with the profpe£l:. The cafcades from the hilts, the glens covered on each fide, fome with natural wood, and others with regular plantations, the village, the church and manfe, the chimney tops of Gargun* nock- houfe juft difcerned above the wood, the well drefled fields, fome for pafture, and others for crops of various kinds, and all inclofed with dykes and hedges in excellent repair, form altogether a very fine landfcape. The inclofurts how^* ever, which are immediately under the hill, and have been bug in pafture, are over^run with furze and broom, which are almoft their oaly. produce, when not cultivated for feve** ral years. Fields of this nature, it has been faid by iheep« farmers, are exceedingly ufeful in the winter, as the flieep feed on furze. But as fields in grafs are fuperior in every Tefpe£l, the proprietor has begun to ckar away this kind of flirubbery. Burning or rooting out furze and broom, doea not anfwer fo well, as cutting them a little above the furface

Na of

1

100 Statiflical AccouM

of the ground. The root foon withers and dies. Nothing however cart do the buGnefs fo effcftually, as the plough ; and when the grounds are again thrown into pafture, the cattle will prevent them from relapfing into their former wild ftate, for a long courfe of years.

Gargunnock-houfe, now the feat of Col. Eidingtoun, flands On an elevated fituation, near where the dry-ficlds are united to the carfe ; and commands an extenfive profpcft. Though of an irregular figure, it contains good accommodation for a genteel family. Some parts of it are evidently of ancient date. On the eaft wing, there is a fort of tower, which gives it a dignified afpecl on that quarter ; and ontil a few years ago, there was a high wall, and ftrong gate in front of It, which indicated that it was dcfigned as a place of (trength. It is probable the Peel, which was at a little diflance, having been abandoned, or fallen into decay, it became ncccfTary that the manfion of Gargunnock fliould be fo conftruflcd, as to become a place of fafety to its inhabitants.

The barony of Gargunnock, for near a century paft, be- longed to the family of Ardkindlas ; and the late Sir James Campbell, whofc memory will be long dear to the parifli, having refided chiefly here, was at great expence, in makings improvements both on the houfe, and the adjoining fields. The removal of the wall and gate, marked the manners of the times. The garden and orchard, which were immediate^ ly under the windows, were aHb removed ; high grounds wfcrc levelled ; an addition was made to the houfe, in a modern ftylc: A Hoping bank was formed on the eafl and fouth, where the garden formerly was, and where (heep now feed ; and from the high road, to which he gave a new diredion, an approach was made to the houfe, far fuperior to any in this part of the country.

The

of Cargunnock* 16 f

The houfe of Gargunnock has acquired an additional gran- deur, from the fine front built by Col. Exdingtoun in fummer laft.

There is one general remark to be made, refpefting the dryfields. No portion of them is now allowed to lie ne- gleAed. They are almoft entirely inclofed throughout their whole extent, to the bottom of the mountain ; and the heri- tors Tie with each other, in decorating and fertilizing this part of their property. .

Carff. — ^Etymologifts explain this word, as fignifying rich or fertile. This account is juftified by fa£l, for fuch lands, when properly cultivated, produce luxuriant crops. About forty years ago, the carfe grounds lay almoft in a ftate of nature, unprofitable to the landlord, for it was difficult to find men who would venture to poflefs them. Bad roads, fields uninclofed, the (liiFnefs of the foil, ignorance of that kind of farming which is fuited to the carfe, prefented great diffi- culties when any attempt was made towards improvement. But now it is aftoniihing to obferve the effeAs of better huf- bandry. The rivulets flowing from the hills, through the carfe, have been confined within their proper channel, fo as to prevent the overflowing of the fields, excepty^g upon very rare occaHons, after exceffive rains ; many of the farms are fenced with hedges, in a thriving condition ; the old divifion of the lands into outfield, and infield has been abolifhcd. The praflice of liming is followed, with great fuccefs ; a re- gular rotation of crops has been almoft univerfally adopted ; and from 4 (hillings fterling per acre, there has been of late a rife to upwards of a guinea, and inYome inftances, to 30 fhillings fterling.

The whole carfe it is believed, was originally under water. Beds of fhells, fimilar to thofe which are now in the Frith of

Forth,

ioi Statijiical Account

Forth, have been difcovcred in fever J places. This feemt to juftify the opinion, that the carfc has, at fome diftant period, been gained from the fea. In later times, it was covered ivith what has been called the Caledonian foreft ; at leaft it is certain, that when the Romans were in this neighbourhood, the carfe was filled with trees of a large fize, which they cut down, to diilodge the Scotti{h army that took refuge there. •

The carfe property of Mr Graham, an heritor of this pa- rifli, ftill goes by the name of Micklewood, which evidently re- fers to a former period of its hiftory : For although there arc fome uncommonly fine trees, chiefly oaks, near his houfe, which muft have been there for fome centuries, Micklewood undoubtedly fignifies a wood ftiuch more extenfive^ than caa sow be difcerned in this country. The probability is, that not only the whole carfe of this and the neighbouring pariflies, but the dry- fields alfo were a foreft ^ as large roots of trees, which are manifeftiy of very ancient date, arc every where found, efpecially on the fides of the glens.

It appears that after the foreft was cut down, what is now called carfe, became mofs. Not long ago, about two acres ftill remained in this fituation, in the carfe of Boquhan, to Ihew what the whole once was *, and at the prcfcnt day, there are upwards of looo acres of mofs, in the carfc of Blair* drummond, Tn the parifli of Kinkardme, dire£lly north of the lands of Micklewood. This mofs, as has been mentioned above, is daily diminilhing. Trees of extraordinary bulk are found in it. The trunk feparatcd from the root, and lying at a little diftance, with the marks of the ax upon it, proves not only the eziftence, but the cutting down of the foreft* Upon this the mofs giadually grew ^ fcarcely any part of it is deeper than another. The cleared grounds are on a level with the fields in culture around them, and fo fertile is the land thus won from the mofs, that after burning the furface, it bears

plentiful

of Gargunnock. id J

plentiful crops of oats, for feveral years, without any fort of manure.

The proprietors of Boquhan and Micklcwood arc the only heritors of diftindion who rcfide in the carfe ; and their houfes and plantations appear beautiful from the heights. The ve- nerable oaks of Micklewood, attra£i the attention of every vx- fitor. Nor can we omit to mention the rovf of firs, where herons, time immemorial, have built their nefts, and brought forth their young. Thefe firs of Micklewood are the only trees of the kind in the paiifh to which they refort, and Mr Graham allows thofc trees to remain chiefly on their account.

All the roads in the carfe (excepting that of Boquhan and Mtckltwood), are fo extremely bad, that during the rainy feafons they are almoft impaflible. At fuch times, carts cannot be ufed. Every thing mud be carried on horfeback, and even in this way it is with difficulty that the bofinefs is accompliihed. When the farmers are fpoken to indivi- dually upon the fubjefl, they are conilantly complaining of their roads, and feem anxious to aflift in repairing them* But no one choofes tofet about the work alone. When the time is convenient forone, it is inconvenient for another. Fair weather comes, the road is dry and firm, and the matter drops. In (hort the proverb holds true j ** What is every body*s bufi- " nefs is no body's.'^ ^

The bed way would be, that the landlord (hould make good roads to all the farms, and affefs the tenants for the intereft of what money may be expended. This mode would be accept- able to them ail, and of great advantage to the proprietor ; as when leafes expire, eafy accefs to the farm will be always one of its moft* powerful recommendations.

The houfes on the carfe farms are not good. Tlierc are two circumftances which muft always prevent them from be- ing lb. The firfl. is, the farms are fmall, fome twenty, and few

more

ro4 StatyOcal Account

rHott than forty a^es. Can good houres be expeded in (uch caf« ? The' fecoild" isi Ac houfc is built by the tenoat ■vho IS on!f iHos^cd'fome twiberbf the landlord. It Utof confequence iirted isp as fuperfichlly as poffible. If It-fiir^s the purpofe 6f A dwelling*, daring the' eurrerief - of ^e. leafe, nothing mere is expe£l&d* For tkefe ' nedbns, it feems probable, that farm houfes vrSi be ivievM^nd un- comfortable, wherever Ihey arc built at the ezpence ioftten* nnts of a few acres. Upcm the farm of Redhali^ in dkispa- ri(h, conGfting of lOo atres of carfe aad ai much of drjffioftd^^ the property of Mr Seton of Touch, ditve haabsea lately built an exceeding good houfe of two floors and with % flote roof and handfome offices, at the expence of the proprietor. Such hottfes, tliOMgh for the prefei^ expenCve, bftfor agesj ivithdut the neceffityof thofe repairs,: w^ich are idoealaalljr. re- quired for thofe (hMHthed cottager of .bailf Aooe and faatf chiy, U'hich begin to tleoay alsnoft : aa i<>onias. ihcy ace rtastd. It Is to be adcncfiirledged, however, that poof aa thtt carii: hoofes flill arc, they afro nuicbb^tpr than: they were twenty j%9a% ago. They c'oii£ft at ieaftof :tim>.fl|tetnlexits, each iMvijsg a chimney afnd alterable windcaaa : - Nor are the cattle <now permitted* lis' ferm^ly, ta entet at dkc Xatne door with ^ the family. If the dun^iUy' ^\iai^. in many jnftances is lltti in 'front of the houfe,^ Were' i^mtired'ito a propor .dtftwice hehind rt^ tins \^o\fild'be. (mother, iftep to jcleanliiKfii and health.' :.'..;.-... .. /

Soil, — There are few fields, either dryfieUor catfe, utnform- ty of the fame foil.^ In the di^fidds .the foil is ehieAyi light and fandy, not infrequently widi a red t^ly bottoto ; but" in fome places' it is a rich loam, refembling tlic low or flat grounds on the banks of the Fortlu la the carfe tlKseisclay of aH colours, bat blue is the mcA pxevalent^ .which Jb alfo I the

of Gargunnock. • 105

the beft in quality. In a dry fpring feafon^ after an open winter^ the clod is fo hard, that there is great labour and fa- tigue before the harrows can make any impreflion. A good deal of froft in winter, and occaGonal fliowers in fpring, are faroarabfe to the carfe ; but, if there has been little froft, or» if there is great drought after it is ploughed, the clay becomes impenetrable as the rock, and it is not without much toil that the feed is covered. The nearer the banks of the Forth, die land becomes fo much the more pliable. The clay mixt with gravel and fand, form thofe rich flat fields on the fides of the river> which are in high repute both for corn and pafture.

jRirmiif^.— The method of farming now generally obferved, proves its fuperiority by its efix:£ls, while new attempts are made from year to year, by thofe of fpirit and enterprize in the way of farther improvement^ The ufe of lime to the amount of H chatders per acre in the carfe, and 5 in the dry* fields, and the fyftem of having a regular rotation of crops in , every field, are the chief circumftance» which have produced die very material difierence betwixt the prefcnt and the for- mer quantity of grain in the parifh. It is no unufual thing now to find 10 bolb of wheat or barley upon an acre, which once produced almoft nothing but thiftles. The carfe is fown with wheat, beans, barley, and grafs feeds, and after hay has been cut for two years, the field is next in oats, but in. fome places pafturing is preferred, as it contributes much to enridi the ground.

The late Mr Graham of Micklewood, who had a thorough

I knowledge of farming, and who pointed out the way to the im-

[ provement of the carfe, fcrupuloufly obferved the following

rotation of crops, a*6 what he judged the beft, and exprefsly

appointed a particular farm to be fo ci^kivated in all time

Vol. XVIII. O coming j

1

ip6 Statifttcal Account

coming; pfttfaaded'tbat ^iperience would prov« the cxcel- lebee of hie phn. A^faf fn» faid he, ought to confift of twelve hfclofures, and be mandg«d as follows. Summer fallow^ wtiettjf beanS) barley, hay, pafture- thre6 years^ oats, beans, bj^Hey, ostts^ fummer fallowy'&c. This order is found to vu fwer fo i^ell; thkt the farm of Woodyctt which cxaftly ob- fertes it, has'always a better crop than any other in theparifli. 1?he (hrce years pafture is the chief thing which diftia^ gUiOres his plan, sind probably contributes mod to give it fuH effea.

The wheat arid barley land for the following year, is be^ pm to be ploughed about the end of hanreft ; and, if the wreafher is at all favourable, the whole of this bufinefs b coa* cHided before the winter fets in. Wheat is fown about the ihWdle of September, thereafter, when the field has been ploughed five or fix times. The lee intended for oats»* is ploughed daring the wihter months, if the weather permits. Beans afre fowh about the end of February, and beginning of Blareh; although in a climate fo inconftant ad ours, the feed timef is* uncertaSn, Beans foHvn and ploughed down on the jith of Jamtiaty produced cfne of the beft crops perhaps we ^e» faw, and fo wet was the ground a few years ago, that it wi^not till the 6th day of April that any feed was fown ia thfe coil n cry. The irfual tinl^ for fowing oats is from the iotW of March to the end of April. Th€ barley is fown after this, and the laft in order, though not the leaft profitable, is the turnip, a fpecies of hufbandry introduced of late by fome of the heritors, in which the tenants do not feem difpofcd to follow their example.

Beans are not fown in the dryfields, as the foil is not ftt&

ficiently ftrong to bear a ci^op of this nature. Peas are fomo-

tirtMs tried to advantage, but for the molt part they run to .

firaw, without grain* The rotation of crops in the dryfields

I is

U ccmnnonlytfais ; oats for two yf^rs in fticceSoiij. and Iwley the third j^ear with grafs feeds^ hay for. two yteajrsj.aQd paC> Vne far three lOr four. Potatoes ar«.a)fo raiftsdTin coniidera^ able quamkies, and there ia not a crop to • which 4hr. foil i% better fttited. The return is very encouraging. A boll aod^ai half, and oftea two bolls 'are di^ed where: one peck ivaa pbntedi. *Some lay the fete in driUs^ wMch t^idoubtedly ,il^ tfae^ft way, as by thii nnieans the rows are diftasK from eatfli other near 'a feet» the plough cfin be ufed ,aflipt>g th^mn throughout the fummer, and while this anfwers every pur** pofe of fummqr fallow, the earth is raifed about their roDts^ which makes theih dry and mealy, and promoter vegetatioi;^ A field in potatoes is a fine preparation for wheat pr.barley«» None of the red kind atre here uledj ei^ceptlng the* yapi^ which gitows 'to-avery large fizc, and affords goodwood. if>X cattle. • ' * v > .. . . . '^

The carfe farmers are cafeful tO'pfQ6ur(|h9sfeso£fupqrii^JC fize andflTeiigthk For the mod part the •plcmghipgy /uno^oior &II0W excepted, is eondufted with tw9 horfe^, w;ithout a diSver4 fFowr muft at times be einplayed in funjmer £albw-* iag« -Le£r pvogrefs perhaps may be ipade w^tb two hoicfe^^ than with four,- but the work, i^ better dope, as two prpr periytramed, aad acquainted with the ploughman's v.oice^ wtil' proceed with more fteadinefs, and iQ.afilraighte]t direpf lion than four^ dtav^itig unequaUy>. an^iniudiciao^y^^dye^ *by an i^BoraUt boy* . ' - •. / / ,.

Id ^each fand there. is a field in wheat, well drefled aoi^ imiedw ^ has been found that dung is more advantageous to the wheat than lime, and federal farmers now give lime to jk\i^ bafhy.'fie^ds, and dung to oh^ wheat. One of them (bisj^ar gsve the wheat field a part of both, and the ir^urn.Ja laxiuriant*

Laft year> not qu^e An acre and a I^If of the m'miftexf^ O ^ gltbe.

io8 Stati/lical Accdtmt

glebe, which had been in pafture for three preceding feafonf i was ploughed only once about the end of Odlober, and fown with wheat without lime or manure of any kind, and the crop produced L. 2c : x i : 6. On boll wa3 fbwn and fifteen were reaped.

The hulbandman ts at pains to find good feed for his ltnd«; If the fame grain i$ ineefTantly ufed it foon degenerates. TVa Atitfk is remedied fometimes by exchanging that of the oarfe^ for what grew in the dryfield. But the chief improvement this way is the introdu£tion lately of the early red oats from the fouthy which produces more meal, and ripens alinoft a month fooner than any other known in this country, / This promifes to be a great acqutfition to thofe whofe cropa are frequently in danger from a late and a wet har?e(l* - - . The drill hulbandry is not' praflifcd here. Attempts were made to introduce it at Boquhan, and premiums were offered by the proprietor to the tenants who ihould ufc it fuc- cefsfully. Some had not the fpirit to engage in itj and thofe who began had ncft patience to pcrfcvere.

Great improvenient is made in the art of ploughing. Priiea dre annually given by the gentlemen in the neighbourhood to thofe who excel, and the young men eagerly contend for this lionour. The old Scottiib plough is mod generally in ufe, but Small's is beginning to be in great repute. The old plough is frequently made by the farmers themfelvcs, and at little ezpence, which is an almod irrefiftible argument in its favour.

~ 'The threfhing machine whibh kbridgtfs the labour, and erw ables the farmer to prepare his grain with great fpeed for the market, is how fet up, not only by fome of the heritors, but ^alfo by fuch of the tenants fts have large farms. This is " acknowledged to be one of the moft ufeful inilruments of huA)andry, that has ever been invented. It has no other in- convenience.

^nveuknccv . than tiiat when a gi£at quantity Js thre^iej.out at once, theilraw h IciS rcAiaKJ. i^y ti^c. cattle^ thaii \vli.eti it is frcCi /rom the flail. ,. , . . . .^

Kilns» with heads made of caft-tron,^ in whiph twelve l^pUg of oats can ht dried in the courfe of 6 hoars» have been buili^ hft year, by the chicif heritors. Care muft be taken not to OTcr-heat tbenii and to turn the grain .often, as in fofne ^ia« fiimoes wkere thefe precautian^ were .ncgle£ted> the whol^ has been loft.

Tlie- farmer juftly complains of the heavy tax, which, beaif the name of multure. It is indeed a real oppreffion^ wbea many of the farms are bound to pay the miller the elevcptl) peck €>i meal, and in fome cafes, a fimilar quantity of b^an$> and barley.- The tcqanti.of Leckie are now free from th>> bondage The'milais in the hands of the proprietor^ and arable'4and is^flefled at the rate of one flulling fterling per ttore fer defraying every necefl^ry expencCf to which the tenants have chearfuUy fubmitted*

It would be of gr«at benefit to thc.countfy> if all that va^ Tiety^of fervtce ofually demanded by herjutors, bcfid^s.thc pro- per rent, were relinquftQiedf ^ Great inconvenience arifes from ahe obligation to which the tenants areL fubje£ted; to pay fowls, to drive coals, peats ai>d dung; and in harveil, to cut down the proprietor's.grain. By being thus in a (Ute of requiCcion, the tensmt is .often incapable, of attending. tQ his own affairs. On fome very important occafions, the opportu- nity on bis own farm is loft, and never returns*

There is an eftablifhed market in Stirling, for all forts of grain, to which the neighbouring farmers refort ; and they find a ready (ale. The price is ufually regulated by the Edinburgh and Haddington markets. .

The whole fecret of farming, feems to ly in preferring the land- dry and clean, in obfcrving a regular rotation of crops,

taking

110

Statijlical Account

taking care not to impoveri(h the foil, and to be feldom from home, efpecially in feed-time and barveft, ready to fetze the favourable opportunity when it occurs. ^' The hand of the «• diligent maketh rich*".

Pcpulaiion.'-^It appears that.there has been Iit(le. variation la the population of thepariflij for qiany years. The cou^qp^mijls at Balfron and Down, and the great demai^djit Glf^ow a fp^ years ago, for weavers, mafons, and daylabourqr^i cpofid^^^- hly diminiihed the oumbcr of fouls.in this pariQi. "I^e hope of reguki; employment, ^nd better wggcs, ^^i^c^ fevera} ^.q^ilies to fettle in thofe places.;, whqre the young i^nd the old wfifc conv ftantly occupied. By the Ute ftagnation of tr^de, hpwever^ many have been obliged to return to their fcMrmcr occupations.

Additions made to fome farms, and t)^ fpirit of improve- ment prevailing among the heritors, which has led them to keep a great part of their lands in theit own pofleflion, have banifhed many inhabitants from thedxyfi^Us, ,%yh^e the ruins of cottagf»are frequently to be met with; but in the mean time, the ^village of Gargunnoclr, wiiich ^n the memo- ry of fome (UU alive, confided only of 3 or 4 houfesj now contains about' 400 fouls*

Ferfons above te years of

age . - - «

Do. betwiEfc 70 and 80 9

Do. betwixt 60 and 70 58

Do. betwixt 50 and 60 83

Do. betwixt 40 and 50 78

Do. betwixt 30 and 40 io4

Do. betwixt 20 and 30 147

Do. betwixt 10 and 20 182

Do. Under 10 .- 167

Total 830 The

Number of fouls

830

Males

403

Females

427

Familica

178

Belonging to the Eftablifii

-

ed church

808

Epifcopalians

3

Seceders

H

Relief focicty -

' 2

Cameronians

3

ef Gargunnock. ' ' Yil.

The population of thisparifli in 175 J, was 956 In 1793, it is - - - 830

The number of fouls diminifhed - 126

Heritdt'8 8, clergyman i, fchoolmafter t, ftud6nts 2, far- mers 55, weavers 10, fliocmakcrs 2, taylors 7, mafons 3, wrights 4^ baker x, innkeepers 3, fmiths 4, cooper ij day- labourers 28, carriers tb Edinburgh and Glargow2» widowen II, widows 38, batchelors above forty 8, unniarried women abovt forty ^^ men-fenrants 94, and maid-fervants 62*

•fi-^Ji^^ sT M^^op^"

N*.

K*.

A.D. 1744—10

A.D. 1784— 8

J745— 6

1785— 1

1746 — 8

1786— 9

1747— 6

1787— S

1748- 8

1788— 5

»749— 13

178}) — 10

1750— 7

1790- 9

I7S»— »4

1791— 10

1752—12

1792—12

»7S3— 4

1793— u

Tcarly aTcrage — 8 " ^

iti" Statiftical Account

R^gift^r of Baptifmu

^o, Na No.

A.D. 1639—25 A.D. 1744—36 A.D. 1784— 24

1640—35 1745—^8 1785—23

1641 — 33 • 1746—19 1786—20

1642—28 1747—32 1787—22

^^43—35 1748—48 1788—19

1644—27 1749 — 31 1789—20

1645—39 1750—36 1790—26

1646—26 1751 — 30 ' 1791— 14

1647—22 1752—32 1792—15

1648—26 '7J3— 36. 1793 — 20

Yearly average — 29 - - — 34 - - —20

Regtfter of Deaths.'^iJo correal account canLe giVcn t)f the number of deaths, in this parifh ; as not a few of the inhabit- ants have their burying ground in othet pariflies, and it is only when the mort cloth is required^ which only happens whea the funeral is in the parifh burying ground, that the death is in- ferred in the regifter. The tax on baptiCms and deaths was paid relu^andy. The one on marriages did not occafion fo much alarm, although it was thought fome Icind of reward ought rather to have been offered by the legiflaturc, to thofe who entered regularly into that connexion. All have agreed, that there is^wifdom in the repeal of thofe taxes.

Poon — ^Thc number of poor who receive a ftatcd monthly allowance from the Parochial funds, b fixtecn, all of whom, one excepted, refide in the village. It is ufual alfo, in the winter feafon, to give occafional fuppHes of meal and coals^

to

^^f GargunnocL 113

to families vAim may be in difficult circumftancesi but wliofe names are not 00 the poor's roll.

Tbere is now no aflefiment for their maintenance. This has been unnecefiary for fome years paft, as fupplies abun« cbntly fufficient have been obtained another way.

George' Moir, £fq. of Leckie^ now deceafed, generoufly added zoo guineas to the poor's ftock in 1789. Bebgof the Scotch Epiicopal communiont he feldom attended the Sftabltfhed church. He faw however, and he ha'd the hu- manity to acknowledge, that the poor of the pariih fuffered a lofsf by his abfence ; and when he gare the fum abov^e men* tsoned, he faid, << he was only paying what he owed them.'' li is to be wiihed, that wealthy heritors who either do not Kfide upon their eftates, or who are too much in the habit of being ablent from church, would imitate him, in this mftance^ and confider the cafe of the poor, who muft fuftain a lofsy when thofe in affluent drcupiftances wth)iold their weejklf cone>£lion6 at the church. The chic? fefource for fup- plying the poor id this parifli, and in almoil every pariQi ia Scotlatid, arifes from th^ collections made at the church on the Lord's day.

At the fame time, there are perhaps fc^ country pariflics in Scotland, whdre there is more ample proviGon for thc.iie* cefEties of the poor, than in tiargunhock. ' "the capital ftock belonging to the Kirk SefUon, amoutxts to 1<1 365 Sterling, the xntereft of which, together with fihe coUefiions, mbrt« cloch-monef, the fees paid at marriages, baptifms, &:c. af- ford the widow, and the fatherlefs, the aged and infirm, ^ confiderable portion of the neceflaries of life *•

Voi-xvm. p /'' * %

^ An addhion was made to the faxuls of the poor ia 1784, by a irerf fiogalar cSruimftance. Two oU Women, fiilerc, who lived ia the tilbge o£ Car^Daock, had for many ytarS| every appeataoce Of extreme indigeace;

ri4 Stati/licaJ Account

The care of the poor is laid on the Kii-k Seffion. A com- mittee is appointed to enquire into the circumftanccs of thofe who petition for fupply ; and more or lefs is granted, accord- ing as the cafe feems to require. Few ha?e lefs than half a crown per montli ; while, four, five, 6x, and in fame cafes, * even ten fliilHngs are diftributed to thofe, who are abfolutelif helplefs, A perfon muft refide in the parifli, at leaft thrM years, before he can be entitled to the public charity. - Ko 'public begging is allowed. We are often hanrafled by vagrants from other places ; but they are not permitted to ac- quire a vefidence in the pariQi. One feldom gives chem any thing, without having caufc to repent it. They fpend tftty thing they receive at the firft ale-houfe % and for die reft (ff the day they become a public nuifance. The conftables afe called, who fee them out of the parifh ; but this does not operate as a punifliment, while they are ftiH at liberty. It would he of great advantage, if in every parifh, there wag fome place of confinement for people of this defcription, to keep tbcm in awe, when they might be inclined* to difttftb the peace of the town, or of the ncighbourhoodii

. AlvQiU^)i without iml^ing any appl^aASon for aiSftance fi-om the parift. Oq9 of them at laft^ applied to be refet7e4- on the poorVUA; a^d as no.doub^ was eotertained of her pc^yerty, % received foigr 0iiUings per montKi Sh^ dkd about fix months after the commencemeiit of her peniion. On examin- ing h6r bedrcloaths, one purib (of goTd and filvor), was found after another, till ths Aim amotmtcd to upwaf ds of fortf pounds fterUng. Stme old ehefis 9nd barrfls were found ftored Wf(h beef, meal, cheefe, a^d various other kinds of provlfion } and it was evident \}aaXjhep»or v»eme9 had lived m, greaX affluence. The reiations of the dece^fed, on heanng of the dilcovery, came from a diftance, to lay claim to her efieAs. But according to the fettled rule of the parilh, fbe had bequeathed all her eflc^s to the poor» at the ^iiB« (he was received on the poor's IHl. One half was allowed to be the property of the fiA^r, who had received iio penfion f(9m the pajriih. Tb.c

tf Gurgunrtdck* US

durehj W<r.— The church was rebuilt m 1774, is very neatly fitted up, and in excellent repair^ On the top of the caft gable, there is the figure of a crof?, and on the wcft» that of a crcfcent. Thcfc were upon the gables of the old church, and have been replaced upon the new. This might have given oflFence a century ago ; but the people are now wifer than to quarrel with a ftone of any (hape or appear* ance.

The manfe, which was built for a bachelor, is too fmall

for the accomodation of a family. Few houfes of the kind»

however, are more pleafantly fituated. There is a good gar-

4^XL The foil and expofure are fo favourable, that crops

' and fruits, of various kinds, are reaped from it earlier than

from any other in the parifii. The ftipend is about L. 80

fterling, with a glebe of 6 acres* Col. Eidingtoun, the pro*

prietor of the eftate of Gargunnock, is the patron.

Parifi) &&»/.— The fchool-houfe is fitutted ott a rifing ground, at the weft end of the villa^. It has two floors^ the firft for the Cchool, the fecond for the habit ution of the fchool-mafter. During the winter feafon, there may be jor or fofchobrs; and yet the whole income, including falary, pcrquifites as Seflion«cIerk, and ichool fees, fcarcely amounts' annually to L. 16. The reading of Engliih is taught for a' merk Scots per quarter, writing and arithmetic for 2 (hillings ; fees, which are by no means adequate to the troublefome ta(k of t^e mailer. When a man decently qualified fubmits to the drudgery of training up children in fcveral important Ivaiiches of education, comzpon fenfe muft revolt at the idea

Pa of

Other balf became the property of the Kirk Seifxon, to the great mortificatioa of the relations; who certainty 'deferred this difappointmcnt, as they ha^ taken so notice «f the deceafcd, while f^c lived.

litf StdtiJIkal Account

of his being in t worfe fituation than the day-labourtr. It is hoped fomething will be done for a better provilion to the mafters of parifii-fchook.

ViUage.-^Tht Tillage, conCfting of about 90 houfes, ehleffy of one floor, and thatched, ia fituated on the fide of a b91, part of the barony of Gargiuinock. The military road from Stirling to Dumbarton, pafles through it. The beft inn upoii the road is here, fe^ hoiifes of that kind are kept in ftfch good order. It is kept remarkably clean and neat, ar cir^oa^ fiance not very common in houfes of the fame defeription.

Each inhabitant has a fmall garden. The one half of the property belonging to the village was fued dot about fifty years ago, at the rate of 20 ihilttngs fterling pet acre, the o« tber half at a later period was fued at 40s. Tfierc is no kind of trade or manufacture in the village ) not even a gvocety (hop that deferves the name. Supplies of all the aeceflary articles are got from Stirling weekly, ar hf Carriers fiooi Edinburgh or Glafgow. Tliere are fome weavers^ tayiors^ and ihoemakersj and the other iohabitaota are chiefly day labourers.

Much inconvenience arofe &om the want^Ca furgoon^ but this is now removed. Dr. Mbir of Leckie the firft heritor^ and a gentleman of great eminence in kis profeflioo, is. ever ready to give his advice and afltftance to the villagers without a fee. There is no writer or attorney among them*' Wheu any difputefariies, which ia veryfeldom, it is eilher^fettled h]r the Minifter, &t by Mr Graham of MicUewood, a juftice of the peaCe^ in whofe jatdgendeiit parties acqnieCce*

Jtntiquittes.'^A little fouthward of the village, there is a conical height called the Kier-hill, which is evidently artifi- cialj and fecms to have .been a military work. There are re-

maina

of Gargunnock. 117

natn9 of m diteh or rampart of a circular form, which proves that it is not of Roman brigin. It is probabljr of later date^ and appears to have been the place from which Sir William Wallace fallied forth on the night when he took by furprize tlie Peel of Gargunnock.

Id one of the dryfields of Boquhan, fome pieces of brafs armour and points of fpears were found a few years ago by a teoanty when digging for limeftone. A great quantity of hu« man bones were alfo difcorered in the fame fpoc, the remains probably of the flaia at the battle of BaUochleam, which wa4i fou^t in the adjoining fields.

There is no obje£l of natural curiofity ii^this parifli equal to ifac glen of Boquhap. The road made on the eaft (ide by the pr^ent propjictor, leads to a mod romantic view» But, H.% perfon has leifure and perfcverance to defcend and walk along the bottom of the glen, at the field of 01d-hall» he will be furprized at every ftepj-with a fccae perieflly wild^ as though nature were in ruins.

Lscd Di/adwmtagis.'^TkU parifli is fituated on the noi^ fide of the hilL In the higher parts of the dryfidds, the fuiv, is not leeft during the winter months.- Coal muft be brought from Bannockburn« 10 miles diAant ; for a^^ug h marks of coal can be obferved in fevcral places within the parifh, no atf* teaipfe haw heax made to diftK^ver it» The tenants on ebp banks of the Forth have boats, but thefe in their prcfent ftate^ are found inconvenient and dangerous for hof fes and loaded carts. A bridge is much wanted near the lands of Mickle<* wood. The one at the ford of the Frew, does not fuffi* dently accommodate the inhabitants of a traA of fertile country, for many miles on both fides of the riVer.

JRpaJi*

1 1 !B Smiftical Jaowu

iZaad!r*— The military road from Stttltng to DttmbartOft# made betwixt 30 and 40 years ago, and whidi pafles through the centre xif this parish, is now by ASt of Parliament to hare a new line of diredion, and to be made a turnpike road. It 18 hoped the truftees will confine the exercife of their power to what is immediately ufeful and oecefiary. Any alteratioas in order to avoid heights, or to leflen the diftance, where that can be conveniently done, would be readily fubmitted to b^ all, from the evident advantage refulting from them« But, if new lines of confiderable length are propofed, where the grounds muft be purchafed and re-inclofed ; or, if the road ihall be fo formed as to render plantations and improvemeots ufelefs, which have been carrying on for years in the faith that the prefent line of road was to be pecoument ;, if it ihall be fo directed, as to abandon a number of thriving vill^cb or io unneceflarily widened as to break. in^upon many beauti^ ^rips of planting, by which ^means a debt muft be incurred that can only be repaid by a heavy, toll on the grain^ the coal and the lime, it is doubtful, whether thq good or the evil of fuch alterations would preponderate. The.truftees have no intereft but to z(k for the general advantage of the country^ . and there is no rcafon to doubt that thb wiU be the objeft <£ their chief attention.

Game, (5'r. — In this.parifli there are the heath*fowl» hafw» and partridges. , . ...

. The commencement of partridge {hooting, as early as the beginning of September, is very often a caufe of their Ccarcityf as the teiun'tsarp tempted to. deftroy the eggs for the fake of the crops, which are fometimee much injured by the /^vtf* men and ioff.

The cleft of Ballochleam is ftill remarkable for the bawks, I for

bf Gargunnock. 119

fir wbich it Was in great requeft in former times, when fal- conry was in faihton.

A crow perfedly white, was found lad fprlng on a tree at Bdqohan.

' He fiurmer fafiers a real lofs by flocks of pigeons which corer Us fielcb in feed time, and make frequent vifits to his wheat before it is cut down; lind thinks a tax on pigeon houfea would be a wife meafure.

' 27^/^/*— Rheumatifm, fcrers, confumptions, arc the chief diforders of the more aged inhabitants, and the fmall-pox, the meafles, and hooping cough, of the young. Not a few are aflli&ed with^the fcrophula, but the people have little con« ception of itb effeCts on their pofterity. There is ftill an un- Ittciy prejudice againft'innoculating for the'fmallpox, while lixe people have a 'ftron^ inbnnatlon to frequent the houfe where the difdfe exifts, not perceiving, that by doing fo they comomnitatoth^ infit Aion to their chiidreif as efTe^u^lly, and a thdufand times* niore fatally than by the lancet. Dr. Moir hindetdates gratis, and has had conGderable influence in re« tonciHngthe common people' to a pradice, which God \ti his providence hathtematltably-blefl^d for the prefervation of the human race.

It is diflicult to determine whether the carfe or the dryfield, %e-ttoft favourable to health. ' Some have lived to a great age in both \ but it is certain, that as the tenants of the carfe iMive die greateft fliare of labour, fo they fecm mod capable irf enduring it ; and if a greater degree of labour fnpported ' with vigour indiciates healthy o^ promotes it, it may be con- jeftnred, that the earie is fully as healthftd as the dryfield. It would perhaps be of advantage, if thofe who are mod ex« pofed to fatigue, to cold, or to moifture, would ufe a cotton, inftead of a linen fliirt. It might contribute to prevent

thofc

I20 StaliJlicaJ Account

thofe rheumatic . complaints^ to which they are ta often fubjed.

Trice of labour^ nvages^ tj'r.— A few years ago, amaafer- ▼ant for the farm, who* lived with the farmer, eould haVC been found for ^ or 6 pounds fterling per year, but now L. lO or la arc given. Women fervants who lately were engaged at L. 2 los. are now fcarcely fatisfied with L. 4. Their purfc is juft as empty as before, but there is a material change in the article of drefs. The day labourer who once wrought at fix* pence or eight*pence per day, now receives a (hiliihg, and 10 feed time and harveft, his viAuals befides. Laft harveft, 1794, ^e wages rofe to fizteen and eighteen-pence per day, befides iiduais, which is by far the higheft rate of wages remembered in this country.

The day-wagc-men for the whole parifh rcfide in the vil* lage. They are called forth to their labour ya the morning, by the found of pipe or drum, and have the &me fignal when they retire in the evening. They are a fober induftrious con* tented fet of men, and though their food be fimple, and their drefs and dwellings mean, it is believed that they have more real enjoyment, than thofe who are in the more elevated fituations.

Food and dre/s.-^^TYit aged inhabitant^ are furprized at the change in the article of living, and what is evidently a proof of tlie wealth of the country, is unreafonbly the fubjc£l of their lamentation. It is feldom that any of them live beyond their income. The other extreme ought alfo to be avoided. More is expefted than the pooreft fare, and the meanefl drefs from men of opulence. When the farmer is only careful how he may lend his money, and add to his flock, and lives at home as penurioufly as when he had nothing, be denies

bimfclf

bf QargunnoclL i%\

btmfelf die propel ufe of the bbunty of ^rdvideric^t arid ia Really poor in the midft of his profperity. There ate fei^ fuch in thii pariih. They all aflemble at churchy cleanj and ia de- cent attire } many of the wonlen iii black cloaks and bonnets, and the younger fort adorned with ribbons: It gives! general difgttft^ howeter, When the drefs is linfuitabie to the ftation. There is fometimes a contention for pre-eminence iii gatidy (heirtri which is fererely cenflired, cfpecially wheA the maid fertant cannot be diftinguiihed fi'om the miftrefil.

All the merij with a Tery few exceptions^ wear hat8> and ^hat niay be thotight remarkable, there is only one wig iii the whole pari(h. Tea is tiniTerfally ufed. Eren the poorcit lamilies have ik occafionally, and the laft cup is qualified with a little whifky, which is fuppofed to corred all the bad effects 6f the tea. There are few families without fome butcher meat laid up for the winter. All agree, that they are better dothed and fed than their forefathers } and feem contented ^th the lot ai&gned them;

Pricf rf ProviJiom^-^Ozt meal is from 15s. to tys. Sterling per boll \ peas and barley meal about los. do ; potatoes, corn meafure, 5s; do ; biitter tt^ per (lone ^ common cheefe 48» and a better kind made oh Saturday's evening 5s. 6d. per flone } poultry at a reafohable price". A good fowl may be got for IS fterling ; eggs at 4d. per do^en. The price of ne« teflarie^ in this pari(h varies according to the demand at Stirling on the market days;

Great fcarcity was apprehended in 17831 through th^ failure oi the preceding crop ; but Upon the return of peace, a large quantity of white peas being commiffioiied. from England by a man of public fpirit^ and grinded into mea)^ affifted the other expedients which were then adopted to prevent a famine in this part of the kingdom.

Vol. XVIII. (^ Gbaramr^

t2t, Statiftieal AtiMtit

Ciaraffff, MdktMrn and Cu/onU.'^Thc chanAet of Hie itthabitaxitt of tbe parifli is ibbriety; They profefs to fear God^ and honour the kiiig. tn theii'deportfnentthey are grave, and in their fpeech confiderate« They are femarkaibly attached to the faiftitattons of religion, and all of them, (22 perfons cz- cefted), worihip together at the parifh church. Dfuilbg the late attempts of deHgning men to throw the country ihto confufion, not an indlriduai in iKis parifh joined the clubs of pretended reformers, or fliewed the leaft difatffef^ion to our happy conftittttion. Tbe only reform they wiih, is in their own petfons and families, where they acknowledgetherc are many thbgs which need to be. corrected ; but they leav^ affairs of ftate to thofe who are lawfully appointed ^o govern. There has been no one here charged with any csLpital crime, for a long courfe of years. The minifter's garden is fitisated near the high road^ and might be cafily plundered, and yet 'he cannot fay that he has been robbed of a fingle apple, fince he came to the pariih, upwards of 7 years ago. There is very feldom occafion for church difcipline ; no caufe has been cairied from the felBon to the prefbytery for ittany years.

The facrament of the Lord's Supper is difpenfed twice in every year. And as there is no ilated allowance to defray the eapcnce of the coi^munion in winter, the pariflitoQefs chearfaliy contribute for this purpofe.

Toung and old are diftinguiftied for polite attention to ftrangers. Men of fuperior rank have a refpeSful bov^ from every one they meet ; for people here have not been taught the new do£lrine of liberty and equality.

It is feldom there are focial meetings. Marriages, bap»

ftfftis, funerals, and the conclufion of the harvefl, are aU

moft the only occafions of feading. At thcfc times, there

is much unneceflary expence. Marriages ufualJy happen

3 .. . in

io Apxil ;|ii4 N(9Vcr»beF. The fla^nik of Mfty i$ cai^d* oufly avoided. A priucipaj teoimt's fon or ibughter has a croud of attendants* at marriage^ and the entertainmefit lafta fpf two 4af;s 9t the expeoc« pf the parlkft. The coiqpanj at

,The mai^ner of conducing funer^U in the OMintry needs much ^^a^ex^Axt^xiX. Ffom .tb<r d^ath to the iatenoent, the hou£s U pronged by night ai^d day^ 9fiA the conYerfatioti U often very ^nfuitable to the Qcc?fioa. The whole parifli as ifivUed a^ to o^cIjdc^ in the forenoop of the day of the fune«< ralj bfit it is ^n icnppgh to attepd a^ 3 o'clock afternoon* Every one b entertained with a variety of meat^ ^nid drinks* Mot a few return to the dirge» and fometimes forget what they have been doing, aud where they are* Attempts have been hxdj nude to provide a remedy for this evil ; but old cuftoni^ are not cafily aboii(hed*

The dregs of fuperftition are«ftill to be found. The lefs informed fufpe^ fomethtng like witchcraft ^bout poor old women; and are afraid of their evil eye among the cattle. If a cow is fuddenly taken ill^ it is afcribed to fbme extraor* dinary caufe. If a perfon, when called to fee one, does not fay, << 1 wi(h her luck," there would .be a fufpicion he had fome bad deCign. It is but juft to fay, that the generality of the people are fuperior to tbefe vulgar prejudices, though, the traces of them are dill to be found*

There is one prevailing xuftom among our country people ; which is fometimes produ6);ive of much evil. Every thing is bought and fold over a bottle* The people who go to the fair, in the full pofleiTion of their faculties, do not always tranfaA their bufinefs, or return to their homes, in the fame ftate.

It 18 but jttfticci however, to fay, diat a difpoCtion to vir« Q^Z tue.

124 Staii/ltcal Account

tu€» induftry, lojzhj and pteaee, charaderizes the inbabi- tants of the parifh of Gargunnock.

ValuQtm: — The valuatipn of the whole parifh is L. 4127 : '15: 2. ScotttCh motley; but the real rental is above L. 3000 fterling. About 30 years ago, it was only the half of th^t fum. There is now an increafe at eyery term. No farm 19 no^ let without an additional rent. Applications are made for the farm, long before the leafe expires. The feparate eftatesy which comprehend the whole parifli, are Leckie and Kepdarrochi ^oquhan, Gargunnock> Micklewood^ RedhaU^ and Culmore.

KUlVIBEIt

N U M B E R IV. PARISH OF ALVAt

(county of STIRLING.)

Bf the Rev. Mr John PuNCliff

Name.

IN the writings of the laft century, and before that tiine» the name of this parifli was generally written Alvath, or Aheth ; but that mode of fpelling has been difufed almoft a complete ^ntury. Whether the prefent name, Alva, be of Gaelic origin, is not altogether certain. Fanciful etymologies can nerer yield fatisfaftion to the judicious antiquary ; and therefore when nothing rational can be offeredi it feems bet- ter to acknowledge ignorance, than to offer what can neither amufe nor inform.

5!totfa/i(flM.— This parifh and barony is a part of the county of Stirling, although it happens to be totally disjoined from every part of it. No certain account can now be given, how this has happened. It is furrounded by the (hire of Clack- mannan on the eaft, fouth, and weft, and on the north, it is bounded by a part of the county of Perth. It extends in )cj)^j| from eaft to weft, fomewhat more than two miles

and

1)6 Statiftical Aecount

and a half; and from fouth to north, rather more than four miles. Tillicoultry, is the adjacent parifh on the eaft. The river Devon, which has itf fource in the barony of Alva, after a long courfe, at firfl aimoft due call *, and then fouthward through Glen-dcvon, makes a fudden turn weftward, near the church of Foflbway, and pafling through the pa^iflies of Muckhart,. Dollar, and Tillicoultry, gently glides along the fouth boundary of this parifl), and divides it from the pariihes of Alloa ajid Clackmannan, which are fituated on the fouth ^. The parifh of Logic is next adjacent gn t}ie weft*

Extent^ to'r-— The lands of Alva extend over a very con- ^ fiderable portion of that long range of hills, diilinguiihed by the name of Ochills ; the remaining grounds are extended ' over part of that valley, which lies between the foot of thefe hills, and the river Devon. The mean breadth| from the banks of the river to the bottom of the biUt may be about tbcee fifth parts of a mile.'

ji'hat portion of the Ochills now nnder review, whisa feca from the fouth at the diftance of a mile or tifro, appear tp be one continued range, with little variation in height ; but aa the mountain flopes towards the fouth, it is interfcd.ed by* exceedingly deep and narrow glens, through each of which, ftreams of water rutt, that difcharge tbemfelves into the De<^

von*.

* It it impoflible to view this little Hrer ef dear water, without admiriDg iti beauty, in its wondecful paQagc through the rock, at the Run?hltu£ Pndge, »nd Caldron Lto ; and its ni|mbf rlefs meaodrin|||, after it defccQ^s ;pto the Talley, cad of Dollar; whence it f Udes g^erally in a deep bed with littb fall, till it reaches the Frith of Forth, at the Cambas miln, direOly oppoHtc to where its fource l)Cgan. When fwelled by heavy rains, or the melting fnow. It oyer flows its banks, and covert the greatcft part of the low grounds.

of Ahv. ivj

YOU. By m<SaA8 df (h^fe, the fckre ground of thh ptiit of the OchUlsy is dhrided into three feparate htli9> dlftinguiflied hj the names of Wood-hill, Middle-hill,, and Weft-hiU of Alvt. On the brow of this laft hill, is a very high perpetildkalar Tockf which, for i#hat reafon is not known^ has obtained the name of Craig Leith. It has been long beyond memory, re- markable for the refidence of that fpecies of hawks, the falcon^ which is tifed for (he diverfidn of hunting. One pair, and only 4)Qe paiTy it is affirmed by the inhabitant^ of the place, build a Aeft ati the front of this trertiendous rock« Thefe are faid to -hatch their young annually; and, when ^faehr progeny are df a proper age, the parents fdrce them to fedc a new habitation, till at lad, however lon^ they may be fuppofed to lire, the parents themfelvcs mod yield their refidence to their forvi-' Tors. In farmer times, when that fport was in fafluon, a hawk of this breed was thought a yahiable acquifition* They are ftill in great rcqueft among our own nobility^ who lo?e 4faat fport ; and very lately, an Engliib gentleman noted for his ikill in that diverfion, fent his fenraot all the way from Yorkfliire, to procure fome of this breed. In order to come at the neft, he was let down by a rope faftened round his waiftf while the end of it was held fall by ten or twelve peo* pie,- who ftood at a convenient diftance from the edge of the pFeci'pice i and he was obfefVed fcrambling on the face of the lock, exploring the neft of the bird.

The houfe of Alva ftarids on an eminence, projefting from the bafe of the Wood-hill, and near the eaft end of the parifh. The height of this projected part of the hill, is about 220 feet above the water of Devon, which runs in the valley below. The hill rifes immedittely behind the houfey to the height of 1400 fcet^ making the whole height

1621^

tiS Siatiflkal Jcccuni

2620 feet *. From the fummit of this hill, there Is a TCiy cztenfive profpe£l to the north eaft, the fonth, and foarii weft. The view to the north weft, is a little interrupted by ' the hill of Dalmiot, a part of the OchilU, lying in the parifh of Logie. From the top of the Wdod-hill, however j the moiidi of the Frith of Forth, the Bafs^ North Berwick Law, widi the windings of the Forth, can eafiJy be defcricd, togctber with the coafts of Fife and eaft Lothian, Sea

The village of Alva is fituated at a fmall diftance from the l>Ottom of the Weft hill. A fmall rivulet, which iflbes from the glen which feparates the Weft from the Middle hill, runs along the eaft fide of the village ; and not only afibrds a cohftant sind plentifnl fupply of water, bnc adds very much to the beauty of the village; This receives a far- ther addition, from ^thriving plantation of foreft trees grow- ing on a fteep bank on the eaft fide of the rivulet, and afibr<^ ing a comfortable fhelter from the north eaft winds, which, of all others, are the moft violent in this diftriA. It is not cer- tainly known, when thts village began to be built. There is undoubted evidence, however, of Alva being a parifli above 506 years ago f \ and it is probable that a village/ very inconfidera* ble perhaps, may then have exifted* Even at pretent the village is not exteufive, and does not contain much above 130 hmh lies, including a few fingle perfons each of whom occupy a part of a houfe. About the end of thelaft, and beginning of

this

* The hill continues to rife gradu&tly for ab<nit two miles farther north, uiw till it reaches the top of Ben-C!ioch, which is the highcft point of the Alra hills, and the fummit of all the Ochilfs; and atcordio^ to the obferratioi^ taken hy Mr Udncy, land farveyor, isahout 2420 feet above the kvelof the Devon. The view from the top of Ben-CIoch is the moft extenlive and beauV tlful any where to be found, and is vi£ted by all travellers of curtofity Who de*' light in 6ne profpe^s.

f Vide Chartulary of Cambuflcenneth..

ihU century, ibt late^Sir John.Edktne, gfandfathflT of the pre«

fcHC Sir James Sinclair Erflctnc, then proprietor^ granted jfeue

« •£ a finiU paicel o£ ground to fevcral inhabitancy, :on which

dief Muk a cottage and finrmed a garden i and a plan, appears

tulttvfi'been tlefigned by that gentleman, of building a village

-ih theformof ft fquare, two fides of which have been aAual*

'^l^'lillilt. The other houfes appear to have been fet down,

without any regular ordef^ and where a convenient fpot for a

garden could be obtained. About the year 1767, the prefenC

Lord Alva, refolving to-enkrge the village, granted feus to

ibch as were willing to build ; in confequenceof which, one

complete row, eoiifUling of about 20 hotifes, was ereded in

one feaffon^ each honfe having a (mall garden of a few fallSf-

eqoal in btvadth to tht extent of the front of thehoufe* A

few years afft^,' tAother row of houfes parallel to the former,

mj with ^fdeHI^Md oat in the fame manner, was completed*

Thctate at Si^Kch the ground was at that time feuect, was at

ftft 13s. and 4d:pe^ fftllV or 36 (quans yards ; it advanced by

degrees to ijs. :lnd i0s. per fall,^as the premium or purchafc

tndney, together v^ifAk four-^ence the fall of annual feu duty.

TiiVing tfaenfedittm rat^ <^ rss; it will b^ found to amount

tn L. 120 (Eerling per acre as^he price of the ground, and-

li; 2 : 13 : 4 as the amiual rent- 1^ theAvpenor. What pro-

' prfetor would hefitate to'grafft feus upon fuch. terms as thefe ;

dpecially, when it is confidered, that the annual duty may

' 1^ converted into (bme ftaple commodity.

The arable foil of this parifh may be properly divided into . four different kinds. The firft, which extends fouthward firom the bottomof the-hills, ctnfifts of a rich hazel moid in« tetmixed with' gravel and finall ftones ; this is fucxeeded by z different kind of foil, being a fhatum of mofs over a bed o£ clay, and extending from 50 to 100 yards in breadth. In fome places, this mofs is found to be 7 feet in depth. Next Vol- XVIII, R to

130 StatiJHcaJ Jccount

to that, is a ftrong rich clay, extending a confiderable waf to^ ivrards the rirer Devon ; then foilows what is called haughing ground, fuch as is ufually found upon the banks of rivers ; fhe banks of Devon being generally overflowed twice or thrice every year, great quantities of fand are left on the ground as far as the inundation extends. The foil at the bed of the river appears to be in many places above 2C feet deep. The grounds of this pariih produce the ufual crops of wheaf^ barley, peas, beans, oats, clover, and potatoes.

The whole arable grounds within the pariih, have been inclofed, feveral years ago, with ditches and hedges. Tbofe fields, which He immediately below the houfe of Alva, at the bottom of the Wood-hill, and extending near to the banks of Devon, were inclofed, and planted with rows of oaks^' aflics, and other foreft trees, by the late Sir John Erfkine^ about 70 years ago, and were probably among the firil in* clofures in this part of the country. Thcfe have been chiefly in grafs for a great many years, and are let annually to gra- ziers, at the rate of from 25 to 30 (hillings per acre. The general (late of agriculture, in this, as well as in all the neighbouring pariflies, was very rude and wretched, till within the laft thirty years. And although the foil muft be allowed to be equal at leaft, in quality, to that in the moft fertile parts of Scotland ; yet truth requires us to acknowledge, diat thofe who were employed in cultivating it, were late in arriving at any confiderable improvements. Wheat, juftly efteemed the mod beneficial of all crops, was not cul- tivated in this parifh, till within the laft fifteen years. Clean fummer fallow, and proper drefling with lime and dung, were rarely, if ever attempted. Good example has at laft opened mens eyes; and experience has demonftrated that the foil, when properly cultivated, is capable of the highcft im* provement, and is fit for producing wheats and all (he ftrong* 1 eft

of Aim. 1^1

eft gca{il. The tenants begin now to perceive the importance f fallowingi liming, and cleaning their landsi to obtain good returnsi and ibe advkntage of having broad clover for fummer food for their horfes^and being able to work them conftantly^ iaftead of fending them (a$ they did formerly), to graze for five months idle on the hiUs/at a conGderable expence. Any per- fon who has been acqnainted with the ftate of farming in tlis * parifli and its immediate neighbourhood thirty years ago, ihuft have been led to afcribe the flow progrefs of improvemeixti in a confiderable degree, to the very fmall number of acres, of which the far greater part of the farms confifted. The ftock of the farmer, may be conCdered, as in general, proportioned to the extent of his farm, which at that time did not commonly ex- ceed thirty or forty acres. It was well, if, according to the mode of culture praAifed at that time, he could pay his rent, and provide a mean fubfiftence for himfelf and his family. Ano- ther circumftancci which affected in a very particular man- ner the ftate of farming in this pariih, and its neighbour^ hood, was the pra£iice of driving coals from the coal pits on the fottth banks of Devon, to the ihore of Alloa. To this labour, the farmers on the eftates where the coals were raifed, were bound by their leafes ; and without entering more par- ticularly into the fubjeft, it miift be obvious, how pernicious the effe£k of this praAice muft have been, with refpeA to the proper and neceilary operations upon the farm. Such, how* ever, is the contagion of example, that fome of the farmers in this parifh, who were under no obligation to be carriers on the eftate of another proprietor, and excepting during one very (hort period, when coal was worked within the parilh, had no occafion to be concerned in it, from ignorance and unflcilfttlnefs refpe£ling their proper employment, and from the defire of a little gain, earned at the expence of fevere labour to themfclves and horfes» with the Uar and wear of

R 2 cartsi

^y^ Statiftical Account

carts, rude and fimple as they were at that time, were fooBfli enough to join the farmers in their neighbourhood, and em« ploy themfelves during a confiderable part of the fummor, ia .carrying the great coal to the port of Alloa. They wefe at lad however, wifely prohibited by Lord Alva, the late pro- prietor of this barony, from following thb abfurd and ua- profitable occupation ; indeed when they began to acquire a tafte for improving their farms, and to reap the benefit of their improvements, they were foon convinced of the inuF tility of their ancient pra£lice \ and very probably would have abandoned it of their own accord* The extent of the farms has been, within the laft twenty years, confiderably enlarged ; the confequence of which has been, that befides imitating the example of the gradual improvements in agriculture, the far- mer has been enabled to make a more refpeftable appearance than formerly. It is evident {i[6m the writings of thofe, who have treated of the fubjeft of agriculture, that it has beea confidered as a difficult problem, to ftate the juft and reafoiiP able extent of a farm, or to fix the number of acres> that one farm ihould contain ; and from the different opinions which have been given, it may be inferred, that perhaps no general rule can be laid down. A general obfervation however, may be ofi^ered ; that the farm (hould at lead be fo cxtenfive, that the profits of the ftock employed in cultivating it, ihould enable the farmer to live decently and comfortably, and in a manner above the other country tradefmen who furround him. In a fmall farm of 40, or even 50 acres, allowing it to be as proda£live as can be fuppofcd, and the rent moderate ; ilill the profits arifing to the farmer, cannot poifibly be fo great, as to raife his ftate much above that of the lower cla(k of manufacturers, who inhabit country pariihes. According to the divifion of farms that has hitherto ta^en place in this pariih^ which has been from 30 to 60, or not more than 70

acresj

tcrcSf tbey can hardly be deemed fo lafge, u to place tho furmcrin a refpcflable fituation.

Fnrni the defcription already given of the fituation of the huHb of this parilh, they are naturally divided into arable and paftnre ground. The three hille are incomparably the moll beautiful in every refpe^t of the whole range of the OchiUs, from Glen-devon on the eaftj to their termination, near the bridge of Alloa on the weft. They are cloathed ^ith the richeft verdure^ ac all feafons, and produce grafs of the fineft quality, and in the greateft variety. They are not fo fteep, £9 rugged or inacceflxble, as thofe immediately weftward in die parilh of Logic ; and they prefent a more regular, noblerj and bolder afpe&, than any of thofe that lie immediately on the eaft. They have been now for many years, divided into two feparate farms, for flieep ; one comprehending the Weft*^ hai, the other the Middle-hill, together with that part of the Wood-hill, which lies behind the fence, or wall, that fur^ Itnmds the brow of that part of the hill, immediately above die houfe of Alva. Tis fuppofed that the former of thefc is capable of maintaining about 100 fcore of flieep, and the latter fcom 90 to 95 fcore. The rent of the Weft- hill, has been greatly incrsafed, fmce the year 1759 *• On the higheft and back-lying ground, where the parifli of Alva marches with an eftate belonging to Mr Murray of Abercairoey, in the

parifli

* The tent of the Weft«hili in the year 1 75 9, vat verf inoonfidenble. There vas then little demand for butcher-meat in this conotry ; and the pro- ^s of i^razing were Tery low. When the next leaie was granted in 1775, ^vbcn the demand for flietp and wool began to increafe, the tenant was taken boond to pay more than twice the former rent. From the rapid pro* ^relb of mannfa^ret and of luxury, mid from the high chara^r of the wocA and of the Oicep fed on the Alva hills, it is belteved that thole fine Iheep-iarms are ftill capable of a confiderabie adrance of rent.

^34 Statijlical Account

parifli ol* Bfackford, the foil id mofly, and produces lieaA in great abundance, together widi a ftpong aikd coarfe grtfs. This however is reforted to by the ftronger and older pact of the flocks; andthefcj 'tis faid by the ihcpherds, are feldom obfcrved to quit their wild retreat, or to come forward in. queft of the tender and more kindly grafs, excepting perhapt . when compelled .by the rigour of the ftorm,. to feek fiiditer on the fore ground) or lower part of the hails. At the fame timei it muft be remarked^ that fnow never lies far any length of time, on the face of thofe hills *• It is remarkahle howereri that at the bottom of a ridge of rock, near to the fummit of the high hill called Ben-cloch^ where it is fhdtered from every wind, fnow is frequently feen lying till the month of June. What is obferved to refift fo long the fummer'a beat, from the fingularity of its extended but nanow form to the fpeClator's eye who views it at a diftance, has re- ceived the appellation of Lady Alva's web.

It has never been the pradice of the (beep-farmers here, to breed young fheep on thefe hills. Although they have generally a few fcores of ewes on their farms ; yet their lambt are commonly fold to the butcher. Of late years indeed, Ibme attempts have been made to rear a few young (heep, but thefe bear no proportion to the number of their ftock. The farmers go every year about mid-fummer, to the markets .' •. at

* Snow feldom lies fiere more than two or three dajs ; and eren daring that time, the Iheep bronze on the young furze, and are in at good conditioity as if they had been fed on hay. The flocks have io much (helter from the fituation of the hills; and from the plantations, that they have nerer mate- rially futfered from the. beavieft faUs of fnow. In January 1794, £> £atal to the (heep and cattle in the fouthem parts of Scotland, and in the north of England, the farmers m tbt hills of Alva were lb fortunate as fcarcely to lofe a Aeept.

(f Aha. 1*35

It linton, ancTpaechale flieep cf a year old. Thefe, according to the cttftom of the iheep^farmers in the fottth| hare been fmeaird with tar, bat that practice is not foond neccfTary in this diftrid. A£kv they have been ihom thrte times white, a^ they exprefs it^ they are fold about Anguft and September^ IS fit) fbf the butcher's ^ufe.

The next thing that is' worthy of notice in this pariOi^ is the flsate of the woollen manufiiflttres. Thefe hare been carried on in the Tillage of Alva, for more than a century at leaft. ' They coniift chiefly 6f Scots blankeu and ferges. The former are made from pd. to is. the Scots yard, and the' latter from xod. to X5d. and a few from x6d, to i8d. per yard. It is more than probable, that this fpecies of m^nufadnre had flouriihed a great many years ago, in the neighbouring vlUage of Tillicoultry; as an eridence of this, it is at this day^^^ known among the ihopkecpers of the Lawnmarket of Edin- burgh, by the name of Tillicoultry ferges. The number of looms conftantly employed at prefent in this village is 67* The length of each web may be reckoned at 80 yards^ and ' taking the average value at rod. or iid. per yard, the grofa produce will amount to from L. 7#oo^to L. 8coo iter. «inu- ally* The maniifaAurers make ufe chiefly of Englifh wool in their ferges and blankets, and this partly (hott, and partly combed wool. That which is produced from ^th^ ibeep that fiafture on the Ochills, is commonly manufa&ured by the people of the country for their own private ufe. A very con- fiderable fom is annually expended by the weavers in this place, in porchafing wool, which it is impoflible to afcertain iKrith any degree of precifion. Thefe ferges are fold not only in Edinburgh, but likevvife in Stirling, Glafgow, Greenock, Perth, and Dundee. The fined kinds of ferges ^re fome- ttmes drcfied and dyed by the traders in Stirling, and fold as

coarfe

f 36 Staiiftical yifcount

ooarfe flialloonB. A confiderable quantity of the coarfer fizet^* have of late years been purcha&d by fadlera as a neceflaiy article in their bufinefs. This trade is at jprefent in a. Tery flourifliing condition, and from this circumftance the manu« £i£lure8 here^ are able to pay 50$. rent for an acre of land, and many of them 40s. for a cow's grafs. > It ^re to be wifliedi perhaps, that a fpecies of manufadlure more valuable Ad more extenfively ufeful were introduced, fuch as an imi^ tation of the flanneb manufactured in England. But it hms always been found exceedingly difficult to give a new direc- tion to habits long eftablifhed and confirmed ; and until fome perfon pbflefied of an enterprifing fphrit together with a con« llderable ftock (hall arife, an alteratioa of the prefent mode of carrying on the manufa£lvires here^ cannot reaibnably be cxpe£led«

Population. — The number of inhabitants in this pariih, from a late accurate fiirvey, is found to be 612. And of thefe, there are

From 10 years of age and under - - 16$

" ■■' 10 to 20 - - t 13Z

-^- 20 to 30 •• - 84-

— — 30 to 40 - - 94

— 40 to 50 - . 5a

— 50 to 6© • m 5a — ^ 60 to 70 - 27

— 70 to 80 - 4 •— *- 80 o 90 ^ • 2

612 Ljfl

hf Aha.

i%y

Ltfi (f Births and Burials from 1720 to I79t.

From the begin- ^'^L'J mgof 1720 tothe

end of 1729 4$

— 1730101739 46 —1740101749 33 —17^^0101759 46 —176010 1769 64 —i77Ptoi779 S3

— i78oto 1791 j 70

Birth

Bur'uds,

HiiMFeuialet Total

113 122 235 93 3H i8i

47 80 «47

87 88 175

103 113 216

122 109 23

144 142 286

Male* Femilca Tout Adulu Clul dren

28 19 57 34 23

8i 75 156 99 87

68 98 ]66 110 56

58 43 101 66 35

81 99 180 101 79

72 76 148 94 54

127115 24i 119 A23

The numbers of this parilh have not, incrcafed in any confi- derabltf degree fincc the year 1760, as appears from lifts re- gularly made up every four or five years from that period*

Churchy Stipendy iffc. — The parifli of Alva was, Ipng before the Reformation, in the diocefe of Dunkeld, and under the ec* cl^fiaftical jurifdi£iionof thebilhop of that £ee. From an extraft taken from theChartularyof Cambufkenneth, in the neighbour- hood of Stirlingi it appears that the church of Alva wasa menfal church, as it is called, belonging to that abbacy, and that the monks performed duty there, from the want of a fufficient fund for the maintenance of a regular clergyman to refide in the parilh. In the 1260, Richard, Bifhop of Dunkeld, made a donation to the monks of the church of St. Mary at Cambulkenneth, of the church of Alva •* with all its legal pertinents," and dif- penGng with their employing a Vicar to officiate (latedly* The following reafon is then affigned ; " virorum religioforum ab- ** baiis et conventus de Cambufkcnneth, paupcrtati compa« *' tientes, — — charitatis intuitu, et propter tenuitatem cc- •' clefis de Alveth.** By another cxtratl: from the fame Chartul'ary, it appears that Alexmder, ililed Dominus de Strivcling, Miles, made a grant of pne acre of land, to God, the Vol. XVIIL S Virgin

138 Statijiical Account

Virgin Mary, to St. Servanus, and to the church of St. Scr- vsuius de Alveth, dcfcribing it particularly as lying near the well of St. Servanus, " et inter ipfum fontem ct ccclcfiam/* This charter is dated, A. D. 1 276. This well is ftill within the limits of the minifter's glebe, and although its confecratedname has been long forgotten, it continues to fend forth a copious ftream of the pureft and fweeteft water. About 20 years af« ter the Reformation, and after Stirling, with a few pariflies around it, were provided with dated paftors, the Prelbytery of Stirling was crefted on the eight day of Auguft 1581 *, in confequence of an order from the General Aflcmblyi to that cfFift. The firft minifter of this pariih, was Mr Roberc Mainteith, who was afterwards depofed for incapacity.

Pudet hac Bpprobria nobis,

Et dicifotuiji, et non potuijfe, refsllu

From this time and downwards to the year 1632, this pa- Tifli appears to have been united with the neighbouring one of TilUcouItry, the minifler of Alva officiating in both ; the livings of each hardly affording a decent fubfiftence ; the ftipend of Alva not exceeding 300 merks Scots, orL. 16 : 13 : 4 ftcrling. The fabr|c of the prefcnt church was built in the year 1631, by Alexander Bruce, then proprietor of Alva; who, after making a fmall addition to the ftipend, procured a disjunftion from the parifli of Tillicoultry. Although the fabric of the church is ftill good and found, yet it appears never to have been completely finifhed within j the walls and roof arc not plaiftered, and the feats are in a very ruinous condition. The windows arc too fmall and ill-placed. As the ftruflure is fufficient, It might be repaired at a moderate cxpencc ; and, without any enlargement of tlic area, might be

rendered » Records of the Prefbytcry of Stirling.

af Aha. 139

rendered a very commodious and elegant church. The prc- fcnt manfe, was built in the year 1762, upon a very neat and commodious plan. In the year 1765, the prefent Lord Alva, then proprietor of this barony, feniible of the fmallnefs of the living, very gcneroufly, and without any application from the incumbent, gave an augmentation in vidiual to the amount of L. 22 fterling, at the ufual converiion ; by which means the ftipend now confifts of L. 34 fterling in money, including the allowance for communion elements, together with 40 bolls of barley, and 32 bolls of meal. But what efpecially deferves to be remembered by the prefent incumbent, to whom this aug- mcntion was given, is, that Lord Alva, not only of his own accord refohed to give it, but a£lually executed a fummons a^^inft himfclf, as fole heritor of the pari(h, in name of the jninifter without his knowledge, as the fir(l (lep towards perfe£ling, what he had fo gencroufly Tcfolvcd on. The glebe confifts of nine acres, a fmall part of which is meadow, and which, if completely drained, might be very beneficial. Had Virgil himfelf vifited the Ochills, and compofed his firft paftoral on this fpot, he could not have defcribed it more graphically than he has done in the following lines \

Ei iiii magna fatis : quamvis lapis omnm nudus^ Limofoque palus obducat pafcua junco.

Let no future pofleflbr of this glebe dare to murmur, after what Maro has fo fweetly fung !

^School. — ^Tht falary of the fcboolmafter is a?oo merks, or L. f 1 : 2 : 27 fterling. This is the maximum appointed by law for the falary of a parifli fchool. When it is confidcred, that by adl of parliament *, the heritors and liferenters of a parifli,

are

• Vide Aa$W. and M. Par. x.Scfl*. 6. Chap. ^.

1

S40 Stati/lical Account

are allowed to obtain relief for the one half of that fum from the tenants, it may be juftly wondered, that fo very few coun* try parifhea have availed themfelves of it, and ftiU allow their fchoolmafters to be fo meanly provided. To this good and wife inilitution of parochial fchooh, and to the ai&duous la- bours of that mod ufeful clafs of men, our country (lands in* debted for its celebrity in learning and fcience.

jPoor. — The poor in this parifli are not numerous^ A' P^^^- fent there are not more than fix perfons, who receive relief from the public charity. Occafional fupply is at times given to others, as their neceflities demand. They have hitherto, been maintained by the ordinary colleftions, together wiiii the intereft arifing from a fmall fund, and the compion dues of the parifh mort-clpthsi ; without any afleflment upon the heritor, or inhabitants. There are examples, more than one, of perfons, who have declined accepting this charity, choof- ing rather to fuftain their hardfliips with patience, than to re- ceive it from the public. This ferves to confirm the remark, that when the funds of public charity are increafed to any great degree, there is generally lefs delicacy in receiving it.

Jliiwr-a//.— This parifli has been diftinguiflied by the difco- veries which have been made, in this part of the Ochills, of various metals, and particularly of filver. In the neighbouring pari(hes of Logic on the weft, and Tillicoultry and Dollar oa the eaft, veins of copper and lead have been, at different pe- riods, wrought jto a confiderable extent ; and though veins of thefe metals, and alfo of iron ore, have been found in the hilia of Alva, yet no experiments of fuch confequence have been made, as to afcertain their true value. Some time between the years 1710 and 17 15, Sir John Erlkine, of whom men- tion has been already made, by means of fome miners froni

Leadhllls»

of Aha. 141

IjcadhillS) difcoTcred a very valuable vein of filvefi in the glen tliat feparates the Middle^bill from the Wood-hill. It made ita firft appearance in fmall firings of (ilver ore^ which being fol« lowedf led to a very large mafs of that precious ore ; part of this had the appearance of malleable Giver, and was found u« pon trial to be fo e)iceedingly rich, as to produce 12 ounces of Giver from 14 ounces of ore. A fum not greater than !■• 40, or, at the moft L. 50, had been expended when this valuable difcovery was made. During the fpace of thir- teen or fourteen weeks, it has been credibly affirmed that ore was produced to about the value of L. 4000 per week, and it has been conjeftured, that Sir John drew from L. 40,000 to L. 50,0001 befides much ore, which was fuppofed to have been purloined by the workmen. When this was exhaufted, tl^ filver ore began to appear in fmaller quantities ; and fym- ptoms of lead, with other metals, were difcovcrcd. The confequence of which was, that all further refearches were at that time laid aGde. There are ftill in the poiTcflion of Lord Alva, Nephew of the late Sir John Erflcine, fome exceeding- ly rich pieces of filver ore, which had been got at that time. Hnd which evidently (hew how very valuable that mafs of ore muft have been *.

Thcfe have been examined by many of Lord Alva's friends, who have admired, not merely the richnefs of the ore, but ita beauty; the pure native virgin filver being obferved to adhere in flender ftrings to the fpar, in a variety of fanciful and irregular forms.

About

* In the year 1767, Lord Alya, of fome of the remains of that ore in hU pofleflioD, caofed a pair of Communioo Cups to he made, for the ufc of the Chnrch of Alva ; on thefe, the following infcription is engraved. Sacris^ |n Ccdefia, S. Servani, apod Alveth, A. p. X767, ex argcnto indigcoa,

f>» ]P« C. q,-^jAC0BU8 E&8KINX.

142 Statijlical Account

About the year i7J9i the late Charles Erfkinc, Lord Juf- ticc Clerk> father of Lord Alva, having a few years before, purchafed this barony from his nephew, the late Sir Henry Erfldne, revived the working of the filver mines in this place. A company confiding of fome gentlemen, kinfmen and friends of the family, was formed, and a moderate capital fubfcrib- ed« Thefe carried on the work, with confiderable induftry ; they purfued the courfe of the vein, where the filvCr ore had been found, a very great way beyond the old workings, which had for many years been abandoned. Their fuccefs, it mud be regretted, was not in proportion to the vigour of their exertions ; for although the appearances in the vein were favourable, and fmall firings of metal fometimes difco- vered, thefe however were not followed by any thing of fuf- ficient importance, to encourage them to continue their xz* fearchesk

A (haft or fump, as the miners term it, was made to the depth of fcveral fathoms, immediately below the bottom of the wafte, from whence the rich mafs of ore, above men- tioned, had been taken, and a drift carried on, in the direc- tion of the filver vein, upon that level ; but neither did this attempt anfwer the exptflation which had been formed of its fuccefs. To facilitate thefe operations however, it had been refolved, to drive a level at a confiderable diftance, nearer the bottom of the hill ; for the purpofe of draining the water from the works above* In executing this part of their fcheme, they had not advanced a great way into the Qde of the hill, when a large mafs of ore was difcovered ; at firft, this waa imagined to be filver ; but upon an accurate trial, made by a gentleman, diftingulflied for his chemical knowledge, it was difcovered to be cobalt. A very confiderable quantity of thia was brought out, of which a great part w;is ufcd in a manu- fadure of porcelain, tl:iit h?.d been ere tied much about that

time^

of Aha. 143

time, at Prcftonpans in Eaft- Lothian. When ihc cobalt is deprived of the arfenic Mvith which it is ftrongly impregnated, and in other rcfpedls properly prepared, it produces a pow- der of a beautiful deep blue, and with this, a great variety both of ufeful and ornamental pieces of china and glafs were colouied ; which clearly (hewed that the cobalt found in the mines of Alva, was in no refpe£l inferior in quality to that procured from the mines in Saxony. In confequence of this Jifcovcry, the appearances of cobalt being now fully known, very confiderable quantities of it were difcovercd among the heaps of rubbifh, that had been taken out of the mines, at the tkne when they were worked by the late Sir John Er'fkine. This had remained .• idifturbed, for about fifty years ; when Lord Alva caufed a great part of it to be waflied, after the manner pra£lifed by miners ; and obtained an additional quantity to that which had been already procured from the level. The work was carried on a great length from the place where the mafs of cobalt' had been found ; but fpar and other vcin-ftufF appearing, the further working of the mines in this place wa^ totally abandoned.

During the time that thefc works were carried on, avery ac- curate furvey of all the different veins of metals that had been difcovered in the hills of this parifh, was made by the agent for the company, who poflrefTed a very confiderable degree of ikill in the pra£lical part of mining. The feveral appearances and fpecimens of the different ores, which were found, in con- fequence of the trials which were made in the veins; together with the precife direftion which thefe take into the hills, with a variety of circumftances relating to them, which it would be improper to enumerate here, were all accuratv^ly taken down by their agent, in a regifter or journal, and which is in the poffedion of Mr Johnflone, the prefent proprietor of this ba- rony. It is efpccially worthy of being remarked, that the per-

fon

144 Stati/iical Account

fon employed to make this furvey, and to digcft the obfenra- tions refulting from it, was particularly diftinguiflied for his integrity ; and therefore the accounts of the mines, contained in the regifter now mentioned, may with fafety be relied on, as juft and accurate, and (tri£lly cotrefponding to appearances, as he had not the fmalleft tendency to exaggerate his defcrip^ tions. Although an extenfive knowledge of this fubje£i is al- together difclaimed, yet there is one obfervation, which prc- fents itfelf fo frequently to any, even the mod carelefs, inqui- rer, that it may be fairly hazarded : That, were new trials to be made, nearer the furface of the veins than thofe made for- merly, there is a probability of their being more fuccefsful ; as, in fome of thofe veins, maiTcs of rich'and beautiful fpar at- tract the notice of the hady traveller, and feem to invite hiai to examine them with fome degree of attention* This is hap- pily confirmed, by the refult of thofe experiments^ an slccount of which has already been given, which were undeniably more fuccefsful than any of thofe that fince that time have been made. It appears from thofe regiflers of the mines, that there are not fewer than fourteen or fifteen veins difcovered in the hills of Alva, which, from the trials made, are found to con* tain fpecimens of filver, lead, copper, iron, and cobalt.

On the fouch fide of the water of Devon, immediately op- pofite to the lands of Alva, in the eftate belonging to Lord : Cathcart and Mr Erfkine of Mar, it is well known that the fined coal in all this country is produced. It has now been worked during a Iqng period of years, and has always been held in the,highe(t eiUmation, on account of its fuperior qua- lity. The fame feams of coal have been found on the north banks of that river, in the tftatc of Alva, and extend from one extremity of the parifli to the other. It was worked by the late Sir John Erlkine, about fixty years ago, and a confidera- Wt quantity of coal was then brought out. The pits and o-

ther

tff Aha. 14$

^er vefttges of his vorks, are dill to be feen. Arid fo nobte a fpttit of encerprife did that gentleman pofiefs, that he cut a canalj a confiderable way along the banks of Deron^ in ordet to convey his coal to the banks of the Forth, to be deported . from thence to a proper market. The remains of this canal can eafily be traced. More than twenty years ago, accurate furveys, of the different levels of the water of DeVon^ were taken as high up as the parifh of Dollar, with a view to facU litate the tranfporting of coal, belonging to the different pro- prietors on the banks of the river, by means of a canal intend- ed to have been made where it {hould have been requifite | as, in many places, the current of the river is fo fmooth and gentle, as to render, one entire canal altogether unneceiTary. Although this proje^i was laid afide, yet in fome future period it may perhaps be refumed. It is highly proba<» bJe, that the prefent proprietor of this parifli, will judge it proper to begin without delay to work the coal upon his eftate, for this good reafon, that the demand .for that article is daily increafing ; and there is every profpe£l that it will continue to increafe, in confequence of the prodi* gious confumption .of Lord Cathcart^s coal, by an iron ^xrork, lately ere£ied on that Nobleman^s eftate, near the banks of Devon. No part of it is now fold for the ufe of the fountry.

In a defcription of this kind, it would be ineicufabte to omit taking notice of the beautiful plantations of trees, Which fur- round the houfe of Alva \ which are planted in the hedge rows of the fever al iijclofures, and on the brow of that eminirnce^ on which the houfe (lands. On this^ there is a fmall foreft^ can£(ting of many different kinds of trees, fuch as oaks» clixis, aflies, beeches, larches, and pines of diifcrent forts. Many of thefe, the oaks in particular, feem to be of confide-

V«L. XVlIh T rabta

146 Statiftical Account

table age. Some of the affaes too, are remarkable on accoimt of their fize ; and one oak, judly claims the appellation of the •' Monarch," of this wood, not in refpefl of its age, but on account of the tallnefs and Afaightnefs of its trunk, and of the regularity with which its boughs are extended on every fide* It is extremely probable, that this little foreft had been at firft planted by the hand of fome former proprietor ; but far beyond the reach of memor^. Mod of the trees, which fur« round the inclofures below the houfe, were planted by the late Sir John Erfkine, and as is fuppofed, fome time before the year 17201 The eaft and weft fides of the hill, immediately above the houfe, were planted by Lord Alva, more than 20 years ago, to which very large additions have been made every year, by Mr Johnftone,. fince he became proprietor. It is computed, that not lefs than 98 acres of this hill, are planted with trees of various forts ; and that the policy, as it is called, and the plantations around the houfe, extend to fifty acres. The road from the houfe to the church, which is little Icfs than a meafured mile, has a row of trees on every fide, which renders it a very pleafant and delightful walk. It is worthy of obfervation, that the trees on this eftate, have this remarkable property of being exceedingly clean and pure^ in the (kin or bark \ and that few or none of thofe mofly ex? crefcencies, are to be found on the bodies of the trees here, which are ufually fecn adhering to trees that grow in low and fwampy grounds ; which is an evidence not only of a ^ry and pure atmofphere, but alfo of the happy quality of the foil for raidng trees« 'Tis believed, that the fame obfervation will hold true with regard to the trees that grow on the fame range of hiUs, having the fame expo- fure, and very probably, the foil nearly of the fame qua-* lity 'j while at the fame time^ it is but fair to remark, that 2 few.

^ Alva. 1*47

few, if any, of the treed, either in the pari(he3 on the caft or weft^ are equal either in age or fize, to the trees of this . pariflu

Few fituations afford more ample fcope for the difplay of elegance and tafte, in the way of rural ornament, than this place prefents. Nature is feen here in fome of her grandeft, as well as rooft pleafmg forms ; and a corre£l tafte, by lop- ping off" fome luxuriancies, and beftowing fome additional touches, where thefe are requifite, might contribute great- ly to heighten the beauty of the fcenery. A rivulet of the pfireft water, pours along the middle of th.-it glen where the mines were wrought ; when obftrufted in its courfc by op- poGng rocks, it forces its way, and falls in three be:iutiful cafcades ; where the ground is foft and flat, it forms a capa« cious pool ; It is {haded on both its banks, with an extenfive plantation of thriving timber, and forms a convenient recefs for the purpofe of bathing. Even Diana herfelf, with all her attendant nymphs, might here boldly plunge into the cool '* tranflucent wave,** and not dread the unhallowed eye of anj favage or licentious intruder.

In the caft end of the church, a monument, pUin, and ^thout ornament, is crcfled by Lord Alva, in memory of his father, late Lord Juftice Clerk. The following Epitaph is infcribed on a marble plate, which, for clafTic elegance, and purity of ftile, is furpaffed perhaps by few modern com- pofitions of that kind. It is hoped, that it may not be difagreeable to the few furviving friends of that refpeft- able and truly amiable man, to recognize a chara£ler in which they delighted, thus elegantly and juftly dckribcd by his fon,

Tz Parent!

"i^t, Stat0icAl Accotmt

Parenti optimOf

Carolo Areflune, Car. Arefkine de Alva^ cquitisi filio^

Qui,

Jttventute, dodriDa plurimum exculta ;

J&tate prove^or.

In jure rcfpondendo dicundoque

^ Felicitcr vcrfatus ;

Senedute ferena placidue,

Suxnmis in Republica muneribus^

Ad Lxxxiiiy ufque annum,

Gnaviter expletis.

Vita honorifica fator, '

In (ede tandem avita»

Ofla ju}^ta paterna,

Heic lubens quicfdt.

Carolo quoque, fratri multum dcGderato^

FamiUx lux, Patrioque, fi fata tulilTent,

, Decori eximio \

Londini, in xdicula coenobii Lincolnenfisi

Sepulto,

H.M. P.C, Jacobus Erskimb^

J 763.

NUMBER.

*f Tk^n and JtbfrdO^y, 149^

N y M B E R V. ,

PARISHES OF DUPLIN & ABERDALGT. (couNxr or perth.)

J^y the Rev. Mr WiLLiiM Garvib,

iTPHESE pariihes, the names of which are faid to be -*• Gaelii!, were united in the year i6i8j fincc Mrhich time, Duplin has been conGdered only as a part of the parifli cf Abcrdalgy.

Jtiv^.-*Aberdalgy pariih is wafhed on the fouth by the Earn, a river remarkable for its numerous beautifuhwind-* ings^ and containing, not only perchj pike, very fine whit« jngs, add a great variety of other fea and frefli water trout^ but alfo in feveral parts of its courfe, a conGderable number of falmon. There is a falmon 6fliery in this part of the river, but it is of no great value. The falmon are capghti partly in nets, and partly in cruives, and are carried from this to Perth ; whence they are exported to London, together wit|; the falmon caught in the Tay.

For fome years paft, in confequence of a fuggefllon of Mr Dempfter of Dunnichen, the Tay and Earn falmon have Ijcen exported fre(h, and preferyed fo well in that ftate, by

means

'ijo Statijlicat Account

means of ice and a quick conveyance, that they have been ef- teemed equal, if not fuperior to any falmon in the London market. A falmon Ibiack has ran from Perth to London in 52 hourf.

General Appearance of the Parijb. — ^The ground by the fide •f the river is fo nearly upon the fame level, that it is flooded after heavy rains, and high wefterly winds ; but it foon rifes confiderably higher. In moft places, it gets to its greateft height at the diftance of fomewhat more than a mile from the river. Soon after it begins to fall again, and continues falling {ently, and gradually, till it reaches the parifb of Tibbet* muir.

^7.— The foil, in. this parifhy as in others, is various. By^ the river^s fide, it is fandy. On the lower grounds at a little diftance, there are fevcral fields of a rich aqd (harp, and fe- veral of a rich clay, foil. On the higher grounds, and on the north fide of die parilh, the foil which prevails moft is a ftrong deep till»

Air^ Difeafes. — The inhabitants enjoy the benefit of a healchful air, and are fubje£l to no peculiar difeafes. Little more than twenty years ago, the ague was fo common and prevalent here, , that very few cfcapcd it ; but it has not once made its appearance during the laft twelve years.

* Minerals, '^The parlfli abounds in free-ft one; but no other ipineral has yet been difcovered. Upon one of the farnis, there is a mineral fpring, the water of which has been lately . f«und very ufcful in curing the muir-ill in cattle j a diftem-

per^

iff Duplin and AherdaJgy.

lit

^r^ by wUch the cattle on that farm formerly fuffered en- tremely*

Statifttca

/ Table. ^

Extent of the parUh from £aft t

0 Weft 2j Englifli miles

from Soutl

I to North ai

Number of Englilh acres in the

parifli • 4051 0 0

Acres arable within Duplin parks - 440 2 33

Aaes planted within Duplin parks - 423 % 5

Acres arable throughout

the reft of the parifh 2988 2 II

Acres planted throughout the reft of the pari(h io6a 2 4

Number of Inhabitants

523

— Carpenters - 4

— Males

255

— Smiths 3

— Females

268

— Weavers - 5

— - Under 10 years

133

— Taylors 3

— - From 10 to 20

«3«

— Cottagers in the lervicc

— From 20 to 40

144

of the farmers - 21

— From 40 to 60

90

— Day labourers at

— From 60 to 80

ai

— Gardeners • 6

— Above 80

4

— Schooimafter - i

— Married couples

7'

— Clergyman • i

— Widowers -

6

— Male fervants 6%

_ Widows

M

— Female fervants 41

Average of Marriages foi

■ 10

— Diflcnters from the efta-

years preceding 179 a

6

bliihed churchy with

— Births

>4

their children 133

— Deaths

9

— * Horfes. about - 149

Number of Farmers

i4

— Cows, about - 120

— Shoemakers

4

— Other black cattle> a-

— Millers

2

bout 30a

— Mafons

2

— Sheep 129 This

t5^ StattJIical Accouni

Trtfls Table? gf^y the real ftate of the pstifli, in ihe end of die year 1792 ; ^tid^ Cnce that time, there has been but little alteration.

fiantafhfff^ fcfr. — ^The plkntations nientioncrf in the? table are exceedingly valuable, and add greatly to the beauty 6f this ^art of the country. All forts of trees plantcif in Scotland arc id ht feed in them ; and Tevcral forts m great numbers, and in the mod flouriftiing ftate. To lay nothing of the nlore common fpccies, the number of fine oat, beech, fptii^e Ef; and fwcet chcfnut, is very conGderable. There ar^ alfo a few ce- dars, two of which are among the largeft that are to be feen in Scotland.

Pennant fays^ that the a(h does not flourifh here ; but he mud have been led to fay this, through inadvertency or mif* iufornlation ; for there are fuch fine trees of that fpecies, not onty In the pleafure ground and plantations of Duplin, but }n various ^>arts of the eflate, that the alh may be looked up^ on as flie indigenous tree of the country. The mention of this miftake of Pe'nnant^s, naturally leads to the mention of another, though it may be thought, perhaps, to be made a Cttle out of place. Pennant fays, that fruit will not ripen at Duplin; and yet it is a certain fad, that peaches and nc£la- rines come to great perfe£tioh there every year, on the com- ifton w^ll. '

The plantations in this parifli are of different ages, a great snahy of the trees having been planted in the end of the lad, and the beginning of this century, and a great many at diffe- rent times fince the year 1 762. Duplin caftle, the Earl of Kinnoul's principal feat, ftands on the rifing ground, and is On all Gdes furroundcd with the oldeft and the fined of thofc trees. The rich and beautifully variegated profpcft which it commands, and the great extent of the adjacent plantations

and

oflkipUti and Aherddlgj. 153

and pleatare ground, give it a manifeft and an jicktoowledged fupcTioritj to far the greateft part of the feats of our Scoitifli nobility. The houfe is a very good one. Not the tower oniy^ as Pennant fays, but all the fouth part of the hcmfe, being the full half of it, is evidently part of the old caftle« The north front and two wings were built by the prefent Earl's great grandfather, in the years 1688, 1689, and 1690. This front has an elegant appearance. But what perhaps princi- pally claims notice, when the houfe is mentioned, is the large and well chofen colledion of books in the library, and the great number of family portraits, ancl other piftures done by the belt hands, which cover the fides of the diflfcrent rooms*

Agricultufe. — The whole lands of the parifh, eicIuGve of thofe within Duplin inclofures, are divided iiito 14 fatms. By aboIKhing that very baneful arrangement of them which liras commonly termed runrig, by draining, incloHng, liming^ and fummer- fallowing the ground, by doing equal juftice to every part, and obferving a proper rotation of crops, thefe farms haye, within the laft thirty years, been greatly im* proved. Much of the merit of this improvement is judly afcribed to the late Earl of Kinnoul*, who, when he came to rcfide in Scotland, not only took care fo to reftri£l his tenants in the leafes he gave them, as to prevent their continuing fuch of their old pra^ices as were hurtful to the foil, but alfo pointed out to them a better mode of cultivation, and left no method untried, that was proper to induce them to follow it. At firft, they difcovered fo great an averfion to any change in their old fyfteni, that his Lordfhip at times defpaired of be- ing able to overcome it ; but, when once they were prevailed upon to make trial of the new one, which he wi{hed them to adopt, it was not long before he had the pleafure to find, not

Vol. XVIII. U ^ ' only

154 Staii/lical Account

onlj that thej were perfefk]y reconciled to it» but duttfief coniidered themfetves as under great obligations to him, for introducing among them a fyftem of farming fo highly advan- tageous. In confequence of this improved ftate of the farms*, the parifli has now a very different face, from what it had when his Lord(hip came to take up his refidence here. At that time there were no grafs feeds fown, and no wheat exceptiiig a fmall quantity fown by the parifh mibifter and one of his neighbours ; but now, there are feveral acres an* nually fown with grafs feeds, and fereral with wheat by al« mod every farmer. Now alfo much good oats is feen grow- iog in feveral places, where, at that time, there was not paf- ture'fafficicnt for a fingle (hcep. Hence the rent has been nearly dou\)led ; and yet, being defignedly kept moderate, it is cbearfiilly and pun^ually paid. The crops railed, befides wheat, -clover, and rye*grafs, are oats, barley, peas, beans, potatoes, turnips, and lint. Of the three laft, the quantity is not great. The rotation of crops which feems to be mod approved, but to which few ftriAIy adhere, is, the ifi ^ear after a fummer fallow, wheat ; %d% peafe and beans ; 3^, barley, with grafs feeds ; 4/*, clover, and rye-gra& ; 5/^, oats.

P<w._The poor at prefent upon tt»e pariih roll, are 7 ui number. The money arjCng from colle£lions at the church, fees of mort-clothi marriages, &c. is not nearly fafficient for tlieir maintenance ; but happily for them they have a good friend In Lord Kinnoul. His Lordfhip, whether re&ding in tue pariQi, or abfcnt from it, not only continues to give the fame weekly fum which his uncle the late Lord gave at churc!i, but is ever ready, as his uncle was, to beftow whatever additional fum is thought Dcceffary for their cooa- fortablc fabfiftancc.

EccUfiaftkal

■

of Duplin and Abtrdalgf. 155

EcclefiaJIkal 5//i/r.— The cfaorch was built by the late Earl in t773» aD<l is one of the beft froall churches in Scotland. There is a vault under it for the Kinnoul family^ in which the late Earl and one of his fifters lie intened. The nanfej which was bui)t in 17491 is pretty good and in to« Icrable repair. The ftipend was augmented laft year, and 19 now gi bolls of mealj 16 bolls of barley, and X^ 74 : 1 B : 8^ fter. including L. 3 : <5 : S fter. for commu* nion elements. The Crown and the Earl of Kinnoul are rice* patronsj the Bifliop of Dunkeld having, before the union of tbe two parilhcs, prefented to the church of Aberdalgy, ^Rrhich was in his diocefe, and the proprietor of Duplin h;tv« ing prefented to the chixrch of Duplin, which was in the dio* cefe of Dunblane.

ScbpoL — The cftabli^bcd fchool, which is the only one in the parifli, is well attended ; feveral children Qome to it from other parifhes* The fchoolmaftcr has a houfe, fchool-houfe and garden, and L. 10 fter. of a ftatcd yearly falary. As fcffion clerk, his falary is L. i : 5 fter. Tor fome years paft, tfix Peddie, the prcfent fchoolmafter, has been allowed by Ixird Kinnoul, L. 3 fter. in addition to his falary, for his great- er encouragement. He defcrves all the encouragement that can be given him ; few being better qualified to teach Engliih, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and the firft principles of mathematics, and none more aflkiuous and diligent in teach- ing them than be is« ^ It will not be deemed improper to add, that he has acquired without any inftruclor, the rare talent of communicating knowledge to the deaf and dumb, and of teaching them to fpeak* A boy of this defcription, not twelve years of age, who never had another teacher, has made a very great prpficiency under him. Already he articulates a great many words pretty diftinftly, and lu3 articulation an>ear3 to , V a be

J 5($ Statijlical Account

be fafl: improTtng. He can give, with eafe, the names of mod of thofe objefls of fight, which he has had an opportanr- ty of examining. He can read, writCi and fohre any queftioa in the common rules of arithmetic, as well as moft boys of his age, who do not labour un^er his difadTantages* He feeiyis alfo to be in a fair way to underftand what he reads*

Pnfent qnd former Proprietory* -^Thc Earl of Euimottl is proprietor of the whole pari(b. The whole of it has beea the property of the Kinnoul family, fince the year 1625^ when it was purchafed from the Earl of Morton, who poflefr ed it only two or three years. For more than three centuries at leaft, before it came into his pofleilion, it belonged to the faniily of Lord Oliphant.

At the fiege of Stirling caftle, in 1304, there was in the caftle, bcfides Sir William Oliphant of Abcr^algy, the depu- ty governor, ^ Sir William de Dupplin his coufin ; but be* fore 1364, the property of the lands both of Duplin an4 Aberdalgy, was vefted in a Sir Walter Oliphant, who in that year, refigned it into the hands of David IT. and had a frharter granted him by that Kipg, by which the lands yrcTt conveyed to him and his wife, one of that King'^ (jfters, to be held in oi;e entire and free barony.

■ Antiquities. -^\n the church-yard of Aberdalgy, and on the fpot where the old church (lood, there is a monument of black marble, with this infcription in Saxon capitals : '' Hie ^' jacet Dominus Willielmus Olifaunt, dominus de AberdaU ** gy, qui obiit anno Mill. ccc. vigefimo nono. Orate pro " anima ejus." This perhaps was that brave man, the dc-r |)uty governor of Stirling caftle ; who, when fummoned in the name of Edward I. to furrender it, made that noble re- ply : " I have never fworn fealty to Ed^v-ard, but I have fwori^

cflh^Un and Abcr^lj^y. 157

^^ to Veep the paftle, and therefore muft wait the orders of ** my conftituent *»" and who, when the • €«ftle was W&eged by Edward in perfQO» and his whole annyi had. the courage to defend it for full three months ; though before the com* nienceoieiit of the fiege, all the reft of the kingdom had been forced to fubmit to Edward's power. Douglas, in hb peerage^ fays, I know not upon what authority, that this was the de- puty goyemor's (on ; .and Crawford in his> that he was his grandfon. Both agree, that it was this Sir William Oliphaot, who fubfcribed along with feveral other Scottifli Barons, the famous letter to die Pope, which afierts with fo much fpirit^ the independence of Scotland.

Befides Duplin caftle, the family of Oliphant had a houfe clofe by the church of Aberdalgy, the foundations of which may ftill be traced. At a place called Monday, where thcxe is a comcoanding view of all the coi^ntry atound> there are fmie ireftig^ of a large buildings concerjaung which tcadition Has handed down nothing but its name, viz. ; K^mp.or Camp caAk.

£0///^.— This parifli wa$ the fcene of that unfortunate ba^ tle» fought on the 12th A^gult 1332, between Edward Bal-^ liol, and the Scottifh army commanded by the £arl of Mar^ The fpot where the battle was fought, has not been afoer- tained«

' ' • . ■' •>

CbaraSer of the Inhabitants. -^K^ to the chara£ier of tbQ people, it may be faid with truth, that they are fober, peaoe^ ^Ue, and induftrious.

NUMBEa

I5f Suuiflical Account

NUMBER VL PARISH OF CARMUNNOCK.

(county OF^' LANARK.) Bi tbi Rtm. Mr Aoi^M Forxan]

Oripn tfihe Namei

T^ H E pariih of Carmunnock, affords but fmalJ room ht ^ ftatiftical enquiry. The origin of the name cannot now be accurately afcertaioed. The mod probable account is, that it fignifies the camp town founded upon the fiope. or declivity of the'liill } and the appearance of the village fcemt to anfwer the defcription*

Anilcnt Stati.'^it \9 not eafy to determine, what was the condition of the pariih of Carmunnock, prior to the year 1569) when there was an application from the prefbytery of Glafgow, to the General AiTembly ; rcprefenting, that tho prefbytery of Glafgow, confifted only of fix kirks \ Glafgow^ Govan, Ruther-glen, Leinzae or lUrkintulIoch, Campfie^ ajid Monaburgh or Kilfyth, They rcprefent farther, that each tf the prefbyteries of Paiflcy and Hamilton conCfts of fifteen kirks; and defire, that Monkland, Kilbryde, and £aglc(faam from Hamilton ^ and Mcarns^ Eaftwood, and

Cathcart

tfCdrnttmnocL ' 159

Cathcart from Failley, may be added to Glaigow. In thi$ applicatioQy Carm^nnock is not mentioned; but we find* that in the year i597> Mr James Hamilton^ Minifter of Car« muonock, confents that his kirk (hall belong to the prefbytery of GlafgoWf according to the will and ordination of the General Aflembly.

Situation^ Isfc. — The parifli of Carmnnoock, or Carmannock, as it is written in ancient records^ is fituated in the county of Lanark, prelbytery of Glaigow, and fynod of Glafgow and Ayr. It is bounded by the parilh of Camboflang on the ^)fty by Elilbryde on the fouth, by Eaglefliam and Mearns oir the weft, and by Cathcart and Rutherglen on the north.

The extent of the parUh from eaft to weft, may be about four miles, and it is about three miks in breadth from north to fottth ; but by including two annexations, the one from the parifii of Cathcart* and the other from the parifli of Kilbryde ; which^ b^? decreet of the proper court, were united in the year 1725, to the parifli of Carmunnock, quoad Jacra tatUum^ the extent may be fix miles in length, and four in breadth.

The greater part of this pariih is pretty elevated, and com« mands one of the moft cxtchGve profpeds any where to be found. Towards the north and eaft, the eye is delighted with the moft diverfified landfcape. The rich and fertile plains of Clyde, from Hamilton to Dumbarton, the wide ex- tended country around, which calls forth the exertions and tndoftry of the hufl>andman ; the city of Glafgow, and town of Paiiley, with the Tillages dependant upon them, and which gire energy to the ingenuity of fo many thoufands in the dif* ferent branches of elegant manufaAure, for which thefe ci* ^^ are juftly famed, ftrike the eye of the beholder, and gra- tify his mind, when he refleAs upon the ufeful purpofe, in which the variedi and excrtive genius of the inhabitants is

employed.

1

i6(» Staii/Hcal AccoUnt

employed* The river itfelf, from many part8 of the groorids^ is feen in (ixteen diflFerent openings, and at a diftancei veflels of fmall burden from Greenock, and Fort-Glafgow, bear- ing the rich produce of other climes to this happy country. But the eye in taking a more diftant range, brings into view the lofty hills of Arran, and different parts of Argylefliire towards the weft, Benlomond and the country around towards the north, the hills of Pentland within a few miles of Edin- 1>urgh on the eaft, and Tintock towards the fouth. The j>rofpe£i is fo extenfive, that a part of fiiteen different coun^ tie^ is faid to be feen.

' &f/, faV. — ^The foil in this pari(h is various* A very con- "^dtrabte part is of a light quick mould. There are feveral farms, part of which confifts of a ftrong deep clay, but which, when properly drained, produces excellent crops. There arc 'other grounds in the parifii, the foil of which is of a light fliallow clay mixed with fand. This kind of foil is very poorj and is feldom able to bear a rotation of crops, without be- ing every year nouriflicd with the moft rich and kindly manure.

There may be about 1500 acres arable, and about 900 or '*'iooo acres* employed in pafturage. The grounds that lie to ''the weft, and efpecially thofe towards the north and eaft, are Ihe moft fertile ; and from their vicinity to Glafgow, where manure may be procured, are capable of great improvement. 'Thcfc lands produce wheat, barley, peafe and beans j but oat* ^are the moft common, and have hitlierto proved the fureft -crop. The other grounds in the parifli, thofe efpecially to- wards the fouth, are fo elevated in point of fituation, that <vf n in places where confiderable crops might be raifed, it would be difficult to prcferve them in any tolerable ftatc of ^cuUivaiicn. Thcfe grounds in former times have iodccd

been

4f CarmUnnocjL tfiic

Wen freqaeniljr ploughed, when tbe farmer wad in ufc U^ tuTri all his fields intq corn. Seldom^ howeyerj.did the increafe t^aj the labour ; dn whic^ acpount» both i^rom their fituation^. and the difficulty of accefsi even though manure could be pro« . cured^ the ^eater part of thefe grounds is turned into^ pailure.

^^ gentleman in the neighbourhoc^d, Walter Ewing Madae, Efq. of Cathkui) who enjoys a cQnfid<;rable eftate in thii parifh^ has of late paid much attention to the melioration of his property. He baa inclofcd at no fmall expence^ the wholcr of his higher grounds, with what are called Galloway dykev of fiVe feet and an half high. Hci.h^s in this manner indofed Upwards of 350 acres, fuSdividing the whole into parks of a- Iquare and oblong form, of 30, 40, and 50 acres each, as fuits the nature and appearance of the grounds. His exertions have already been fo fzt crowned wit^ fucccfs> that for landt ivhich formerly let for z ihillin^si or 2s^ 6d« per acre^ and "were thus rated by thofe who enjoyed the Icafei he now re>* ceives 15 (hillings per acrer Nor iipoulc^ he gi? e a leafe oi^ 19 years at this rate. The reafon, why fuch a rife has taken place^ isj tha^ thefe grourids.na^ only ajOford ex(^Uent paftu* rage, according to the ufe.to yhich.^hej are put, b^ may be confidered as fo many temppraf y, folds for ,(heep tfrought from^ a diflancej and intended as^J^ ready fppp^y for tl^f ,0;^gow market; - r -. . , 2 /i . ;

The fanoe j^entleoiax) is a]fo epigf^ed iji :Cubdiiriding^ and improTing his lower grounds. What he holds inhia d^n po^eb lion^ he .is Improving slj; great expe^ce, bod) Ify bringing hm iepranti and labourers fro/q thofe parts of the countr]f where agriculture . is better underftood, ^qd alCoi by driying manure from the city of Glafg0W| thefe lands being only a* bout 44 niiles diftant For fuch of the grounds as he is about to let, he demands fo mudi per acre^ 40s. for fome parts of

l9i StaHJUcal Atcdunt

tKeiQt and jos. for ot)iet 6el4» which are mt prefent lefs pro^ite* tiVe* There is no doubt, tbathf will gain his purpofe, as thiyfil wfadhave already lited upon the grounds, to whom he isdifpofed to let them, arc incliiud to enter upon a new le%re, though at t^ce die rent which was formcrlf paid. The proprietor him* fc^ means to fubdivide and inclofe them, but infills upon % rotation t)f crops, upon fuch grounds as fiiHll be fpecified in the contrafi. It muft, however, be a ponfid«rable time be* (ore his latidableefibrts canhavetheir fuiledtsd, as fereral of the oM leases ate not yet expired ; but certainly the commiinitf at. las^e muft wi(h, that his labours may be crowned with ample f^cefia^ and that others by his exe^iona may be excited ta Hf like ipirited induftryw

ImprovMififs.'-^ln this^parilh there is yet great room for kngny uCp£ul ipiprQfe«^t$* Though the breed of horfes u cxoellently adapted for the {>lough, and foii heary carriagen Jit -fuch is the •p(i;T9lCQa^ o^tttft^ti^.^Ad M Attachment to former pra£\ices, that, the. 014. M^otttib fi«l^gh is for the molt part ufed, and commonly dragged by foUr of thofe ftnrdy a^mals I whUd»( if Sd^^l's plo^igb with its late impmre* vsm^. wor^ inttqd»c|^ ..two Aicti faor(:s woiUd be fufficient iff 4ie d^u^tr/ wi(}>^i|t a 4r^fejp, ar plough-boy, who is at prefeii$^a fiMW^^yQr atteii^^. .^cvx^V^pf |he mote enlighiea* tikfmtH^ a.is]Mf^ %midSt 0ti4r fg/^mtp wiU alUnd to fu^hy-^^W in Ihfi end prove r^aUji ^eficial to themftjvM arid to their coanrry.-; j . '. . a ,?s

.^j^foft of the Arms^a^|iiKJk>fcd| (ort^ with (tone, and the ptatof. part mth ^tborn-bedges i the latter if propecif . ci^md ioK, ar^ prcf(;i9»M( in a t^h co4a«ry> upoA ac» co^ot of ihe w^arm^h and , (helper they afford during an in* clemant feafon. . jperh^pratMrouid add^oth to ofnamentf and: «uHity, were the greater part of" die grounds ioclofed with

beltf

^ Camuumock. ii%

belts of planting of confiderable breadth, particularly in fueh fitna^m^'dt kt({\Att ptott&Mti from the ftoriiiu/ of vfaid ai^

taiB^ which ire here Very fftqaeDt.- ^

* ■ • •

jefNf.~11i6 lands in thb par ifh dd not rent high in compa^ rifon of the prefent^ general rate of purchafe. What is remarK* mbk; thelbn, fathor, and grandfather, as far as recoHediod goes backf have )iTc# upon the fame ground^, and confidef dusmfdves as^they exprefirit, " naturalized to the foil." They are ftill futi^ded to many burdens, or ferrices, which the pib^ ^etor of the land rehires, fuch as driving coals^ working^e May, and other pieced of labpor^ all which ought ta be aKi^ liftild, becaufe they ^eck the fpirit^of improvement, and en« croach upon thofe precious hours Whi^h the hufl)atnlm^ Aould employ in reaping the fruits of his own patient induAfy. -5

»i THo hUids updo aHI^Yl^ge, In this parifli, may rate at 151. ptt^9«« Tbe^ahied rent of^the parilb is L; a^fo : lOScOtsri the'flM) itent ibay be betfv<ieta L# i6o» and U ^ooo 9Mlitig^ If' w« i^llMle feii'dttty mid fupertorities/

»3|fi*/»/, ^.— The tmmher of liorfi^s iJCedtfo^^ltaUght ttrit tlicfaim, «fe aboin 70, bmbylnduding tbentin^ations^^ thepariflt, about 120; ^T6e iRimber of milbcow^«boU^^i j^ uHA of wfaiA are r^re^ itt^&e parift. The to^ ari^i^f ^ iflo<titra«e'fi0e, nailherlh iatge^ ^ Kitglidi, Mr feffflaHatr tlMfHighliBd cow* Biiriqgtiib ^HMmet* momhs tk«y ^to % iO| 12, 14, and 16, Scotch pints of milk per day. ' ' ^

^The faorf^a are very heary and Urge. They aire e( 'die Vfpg/t .Oydefdate breeds ap4 are every wAerO'Commt^ ih tl^.^ pail of the countty^ being either feated bf the'care of the'' fatnxM himfelf) or porcblifed at Uie Rutharj^en markef: Molt of the horles ofed in this^pariOiitre hlack^ and tbi^

••*•'-• :' - X% "-• -'* "^ fart

1

iftf StatiJHeal AcCMnt

^ litre from 14 to 16 hands high. Thejr are tmcommonly well msitched^ <aii4 maj rate from L. 24 to L« 45 pet head.

Jliifr4g«»M»/ e>/Ftfr«x.— The whole of the formers here, Imd efpecially thofe whofe farms Ite in the more clevate4 parts of the parifh, incline to plough little, but to let their grounds lie in pafturage for 4, 5, and even 6 years, before they lay them down a fecond time in com. Thus, what hat been in crop for the three prcceeding years, muft be in paftnrc for the three or four years following ; while thofe proportion^ (»f the farm that have been in pafture the appointed time, are a- gain ploughed up, and appropriated for corny though fufficient care is not had to crop in due rotation. To this mode of fseonomy, the farmers are in fbme meafure obliged to adhere^ becaufe of the dearth and fcarcity of proper manure. Lime Is •at hand in the neighbourhood, and fome avail themfehres of «it ; but from experience it has been found, that lime alone, will not anfwer a foil and mould fo light and quick, with* out it receives at certain intervals, a more generous and un&uous manure. Dunghills confiding of a mixture of ^arth and limcj are the kind of manure which is moft ii^ tife.

The greater part of the farmers and people in the neighbour* liood, fend the produce of the dairy to Glafgow, where at times they find a ready market. The cheefe is of an ex^ cellent quality, being no wife inferior to that mild kind^ which in* many parts of Scotland is known by the name of Uunlop. A farmer who pays between L. 70 and L. 80 of annual rent, and who converts the greater part of his milk into this neceflary article, will fend 130 (tone to the mar* *^et^ at 5$. 6d. or 6s« per ftone } a very confiderable portioa •f his rent.

tof Camiunnock^ ' t6$ .

The farmeirs hett follow the Irifli method, and chtxTn the

wl^ole of die milk. They are of opinion, 4hat the butter is not fo apt to turn rancid, as when the cream, after having been long gathered, is only churned. And froni ' various experiments in different parts of the country, th6re

* feems to be fome truth in the aflertion.

The milk of each cow upon an average, will produce '

' four pounds^ of butter per week, from the beginning of May, till the middle month of Odober, which the farmer fells at*- 18. and ncYer below lod. per pound. The farmer who haa I a milk cows^ will therefore, during the 6 fummer and bar* ▼eft monthS| when the grafs is moft luxuriant, make L. 50 - ilerling of his butter, and above L* ao of his butter milk, *-

' which is readiW fold in Glafgow, and its neighbourhood, at } - find never lefs than a halfpenny the Scotch pint, or twd £xigli{b quart^.

Though th«^ farmers have a ready market in Glafgow at all feafon9 for ft^ch i^eceflfiry articles, as milk and butter^ yet they are not at due pains ' to ketrp winter cows in fuch order, as to fecure fuch a quantity of milk, . as it would l>c an objed to bring to -market. Feeding with turnip is feldom pra^iifed, though fuch of the farmers as have at* tempted this, have found a very good return. It is how- ' CTcr hoped, that a crop fo beneficial iii fituations wheire the milk can be confumed, or the cattle fattened for the market, will even here be brOvi|;ht into more general prac- ' i |ice.

Quarries, t^c. In many parts of the parifli, ther6 li »

coal and lime-ftone, neither of which has been wrought to any extent. There Is alfo iron- ft one, which was once con- ' ^sL&cd for by the proprietors of the Clyde iron -works', but Kwing to fome failure in th^ ^ontrafl;^ the a|recment became ^

null}

.|$6 SiatiJUcdl Acewni

HiiJl; fince which period, the ftone, though ftid to be of as fscelUilt $(U9#t)^ has beeo neglected. v ^ r

tThcre arc a^lb eilenfife quarrief of ezceileni free-ftoae^ fome of a jpoft, and olhera of a very 6rin tegture. What is Yen»afkabl^, in thC;1vh<»te eftate of CathMn, which it nearly \ of the pariflip there 19 qo free«ftonc to be foii|n4» bipt %U below the furfacc ki folid whin of (he vpfi^ durable kindi ex« Cepi one.or two ioconfiderable quarries of rotten rofki ufeAsI only on thehighwayat In this diftrid. there arc alfo ma^jf ll^lai^of the ftone called bafalteai a 4efcriptio& of which hati ip^re than piH« Ivm git^ll tP the public* •*f « - » ' * *

aliTf^ <^^<^ii.f revy parfc^of the pari(h» and pacttcqlatly in the higher ^ound^ dieye .ipre.many (prings of the flAolk eMcH«ntTwater» thoic effiiciaUy which ifiiiQ from the^creaicee qf;thf> ff»l«dlr({f:k. .S^ quality of the. water il fo g;ood, thaii fmr4,gmU^mei^ icom ^ univoT^y and neigMfOUf fabod ofe Qla^ows.j well/ kno^^ for tbf iri iefpe£labilityft .a.odhigb'aW} taifi^ent 90 tjie 4iffiPiMt dcpaitiQcuis of fciefiCB, wcnigujd^e; F9i«r4%fRabeiarv9ffCttratc«furvey of aU.the difierefilXpringSt^ ^0 Jry wh^r % quaoHtyi fuflicicnt for^ie iupply of the ci^: of^Xjyl^efifirjKlu^b^proattfdtt It was hcvmipr fouad» mpoo^ usually furvey, that if all the^^tings upon the bpow of th^ liill were cplle^e4f with the view to be introduced into the «>Jf» a^cjaCquldBipnliir a^fofA^o^ Scots: pifrtai^ th^ mQtfbqn wbi$I^iiF^ ffirfa ifew J ^ qu{^ntkpe^iure4

1ipnKtM4t tP be ef .eoi^rtden^c yirtuc iu the cure of >«rioiia dtTjtafq^) wtikhmao^- pi^iple.ia^jhe neighboufhood uied fo»» mearly tp altenda jBut iot >Qi{iQy years, the fpringhas bec^c defertcdy if^ba^hiog^qivtera being at yreftot die morp^ fafliioiiable reform

Ther«

«f Carmunfi6ck. i€f

Thete ne few rivers of any oote in th6 poiriflii te<ctpfc A# Can whidi runs along its weftem boundary with gt«<tVapida- ty« Its baaka in mott parts are coyereH with woodi whicli« together with its mcandrings, 'and the rapidity of its ftfeam^ tenders it highly pi^lurefque and romanric. It has many ekgible fituacions for cotton- mills, aild other works 9£ tttiiityy Wfaich rehire a great weight, and quantity of water. Aod^ it is furprixing, that, in a neighbourhood, where fpitk^ and iiidbftry ha^ fo long been exerted, fuch fitoations, intended by nature to call forth tbe ingentisty of man, (hoold not liav#> been long ago converted into many valuable purpofes. The orfly cotton* iMU erededin this quarter, upon die Meaarfts*]ftl« of die river, belongs to a eompany in Manchefter. ' 'i

i The great' read, {^leading from Glafgow to England b]P ■ilbryde, Mutrkirk, Dumfries, Carjifle, &c* pafies throu^ die eaftem part of this pariih. There is another road that^ joins with the former, near to Kilbryde, inteAdcd as 'jp thorough fare to Paifley, and the neighbourhoad, which pa& fes through the annexed part of the pariih i and there is % diird already contracted for, which joins the Paifley road to^ wards the fouth-weft, and is to pafs through the village oF^ Cannunnock, to lead to Glafgow. "^s

j^^ofrMu^— The ftate of population, ' as far ar can te traced back by feOional record, appears for the laftri5o y^irsj^ to have been nearly the fame. Before the year 1640, a regi* (bation of marriages and births began lo b&kept | but feve* rd parts of the regifter, from decay, and other accidental call^* les^ cannot now be read. What was the Odndition of tbd^ paiifh 100 years ago, with relped to popttlatiotf> may in ftiDe.aaea£irei be ^oUe^dirom the IpUowing^ ftactknent.

^''

Marriages*

tt6l. Stdlijitcat Account

iHmHips.

Birthi;

BAtrriagrt.

Birthi.

Jni688

6

«4

In 1788

8

22

n

i<$89

3

la

1789

io

22

xt

»6yo

S

*9

1790

5

»5

l±

1691

II

18

I79«

4

20

H

1693

8

•4

179a

II

18

II

1693

9

'5

»793

10

»4

9

i

i.-

^^

— '^

-^

In 6 years

42

92

i. -

48

III

70

At. for I year 7

»J

* w

8

18

II

The ntimbcfr of families^ including lodividuais who bav^

feparate dweUihg houfcs, amounts to 133, The^c are 2^0

*iha)el, -and 310 females ; fo that the number of fouls in tbtf

parilh, ia 5^0. Of thefcj thcw are 115 children under 10

years of age* ,

Prcfent p6pulaiiori| * ' . - 57«

-Do^in i7S5f * . * - 47«

Increafc, • , * «• 'i 99

In the parifh, there ate 1 5 Si^reavcfs, 8 Mafons, who a< the fame time aire employed at wtights; thcfc occupations jbeing in this pluce confidercd as com^cdedi There ate 6 ihoemakerS) ;i taylorsi 10 day-^labotirers, 3 millers, 1 carrier^ ^cooper, 3,gardiiier6,, i fmith^ 36 men-fervants, 42 womett- fervants.

Price of J^hur^ and Provijionl.^~^{ kte years, thei prici of labour i$ very high. The wages of a man-fervant, are feldom below L. 10 ftcrling yearly. The wages of a woman- fcrvant, are feldom lefs than L. 4 ftcrling, and frequently L. 4 : 10. The wages of a labourer in hay- time, and harveft^ are commonly lo^di and frequently, ^ihillingSt A day«la« ;: bofirc#

qf Carmunmei. 169

%oaTer1]i winteff cornmonljr cams per day,! flitlUng, and 18 6d In fommer. A taylor untformly receives t (hilling, and a mafon is 8dy and freqacntly, efpecially in fucnmeri a (hil* ling).

The price of proTifions has of late alfo rifen very high. Meal if in general, abont is id per peck ; cheefe, 4dT per lib.; butter, lod, and often 1 (hilling per lib. ^ hens, is 8d to 2 (hillings, or 3s 4d to 4 (hillings the pair ; eggs, 6d, 8d, and fometimes, lod per d&zen. The two laft articles are here frequently higher than in the city of Glafgow ; becaufe the feller, or retailer, will rather choofe to carry fuch articles to market, and fell them at a reduced price, than accept of m higher price at home ; beef and mutton, are commonly about 6d or 'jd, per lib. being the fame as in Glafgow, be* fides the additional expence of carriage.

Hmter/.— There are only two confiderablc heritors in this pari(h» all the reft, in number 14, including, feuars, mod of whom, at different times, have purchafed a piece of ground from the family of Cafliemilk, being under L. 1 50 fterling <^ annual rent.

Sir John Stuart of Caftlemilk, is patron of this parifb* The church was rebuilt in the year 1767. It is a fmall edi* fice, built of fine and free-ftone, and is very commodioufly fitted up for the parifh, who are in general conftant in their attendance upon divine worfhip.

The manfe and offices are alfo in excellent repair, and were equal attention paid to the melioration of the benefice, the charge would be both eafy and comfortable. But, although there are two annexations, (quoad facra)^ which pay temporalia to the extent of near 70 bolls of meal, befides vicarage to other pari(hes, the ftipend of Carmunnock, with all the additional labour occafioneddby tliis circutnftance, for which nothing is

Vol. XVIII* Y received.

.*t JW SettHJlieai A^cimt

received! amdunts to lietle more than 5 chalden of mttii mL itx bolls of bear, or rough barley, widi L. 9 : 5 : o : ^ of vica- rage, and L.2:o^2¥, for communion dements; though, owing to the vaft concourfe of people from Glafgow, and the neighboufing pariffaes, the ezpence incurred when ibA Sa* crament is difpenfed, amounts to four times the fum *» ' The glebe, ifieluding the fite of - mtnle, ofike^- and wkal it appropriated for garden, meafures about 5 act^^^

« ^ Succfffion of Minjftirs in C^rmunnock.

M[r Andrew Hamilton, vicar 1586

Mi^. James Hamilton, reader and ylcar 1586

Mf Archibald Glen, from Rutherglen, admitted 27th

]^.B4Qbcrt Gkn^ admitted zsd Auguft 1(1*4

Mrj2in|es Mowl^^ae, admitted 27th November 1622,.

removed by the Archbiftiop, - - - 1633

Mr James Hutcbefop, from Houftounj admitted 7th

X)ecfmber ir*»33, dcpofed •, - 1639

Mr Matthew M^XajIl^ admitted 17th May 1640, went

to Bothwcll, - - - *^49 .

ftj;r AndreMr Myrtpn, (Morton) admitted 8th May 1650,

turned ou^ at the Reftoration, re-inftated at the Revo- , lution, died July , ,-, . " - t6^i

^^r Robert floyd, during the depofition of Myrton, i8th

January - - - 1665

Mr Andrew Tait, — _. 22d March .169a

Mr John Kerr, ordained 3d May 1744, died 24th April 1775 Mr Jofcph Hodgfon, ordained 30th May 1776, died 6th

December - . - - 1785

Mr

^ There has been ao lugmentatioit tff Af^ond im itHix tso yttiy* .

Mr JaflMsVfeiiehjOrdaiae4aiftScptciiibcvi78di^tra^^ : * Uted ti>KilbT]r4e^ ai ft April *< « 19^

^ Adam Fonaaa, ordaioed Sl6th January - 179a

Aor«*-«Krer7 part of tbt pari& being remarkaUf healKltfy the poor aie not numtrotts. Such howcTcr, as are upoa (be jntL^ aas weU cared for ( and there it no remembrance v^en an individaaly either nan or woman» was permitted to .b^|^ • The parilhhaTe a comfortable fupply for all the purpofcs of in* digence, which arifes from the Intercft of a ftock of upwards of L. 400 fterling. This fund has been raifed by donations af dificrent times from the family of Cafllemilk^ and principal^ tj% by d^ weeUy coUeAions, which have always been confi* derable, owing to the uniform attention which ' this famllf has CFcr paid to the parifli in the choice of their paRthrs. The parifli has always been kept together, (b that there sAr^ very few diiTenters \ notwithftanding the rage for mock liber- ty. There are 8 at an average upon the tt)il. There are only 1 6 diflenters of all denominations ; and while' the people have been fitisfied, the Patron, by prudenraddrefs^ has ever pleafed himfelfj and got the man of liis choice^

8cho»l, — There is only one fchool in the partih. The' Ichoolmafter has a teaching room, a^id dwelling houfe, with IOC merks of falary. The number of fchokrs^ is ufaaUy be* tween 40 and 50. The wages or fees are fo very low, that • the whole living, including the office of Scflfion Clerk, and ' Precentor, will fcarcely an^oiint to L. 25 per annum.

^ntifuUtrs.-'^Thc whole of this parifli has been in former tunes the fcene of a£live exploits, cfpccially the grounds which lie towards the fouth-eaft. Various tumuli yet remain ^ and ia thofc which. have been opened, urnsj formed of clay^ and .

Y 2 tudcly

tj% Stoical Afcwm

ruddy carredt weie fotmd ; in which the aihes of die deMi feem to have been depofited! Their contents within confift« ed chiefly of a dry vn^iuous earth, mixed with hnman bones ^ and a fort of reedy fubftance, which, perhaps it is impoffiUe for us now to explain. We can form no credible conjeAure about the time when thefe urns were firft depoGted ,in the earth ; and few things hare been found, fo as to afccrtaio, whether they are Roman, or Celtic ; but it is moft probable* that they are the latter; and that the tumuli in which they are placed, have been nii(ed in the time of the druids, before the chriftian sera. Commonly in the midft of the moundt fquare ftones are placed, which form a kind of cheft, ot • ftone-coffin, in which the bones of the warrior, or of (bme perion of fuperior rank and authority, haye been configned to the earth. It is remarkable, that all thefe chefts are formed of fine free-ftone, which muft have been brought from a di{^ tancc, as there i% toothing of the kind to l>e found in this part of the parifh.

In the eftate of Caftlemilk, are found the remains of a Roman caufeway, or military road \ and in an adjoining fieldj^ feveral pieces of ancient armour, with camp utenfils, were lately dug up. The helmet and neckpiece are of an uncom- mon fiz<*, and though they are much corroded, and muft have lain long in the earth, they dill weigh near 18 lib. Avoirdupois.

In the houfe of Caftlemilk, which is noted for its fine Q* tuation, the unfortunate Mary is faid to have lodged the night before the battle of Langfide. Many different fpots are pointed out in th^ neighbourhood, where, the following da|^ (he viewed the difcomficure of her army, which was the ruin of all her fortunes. The moft probable place, is upon the brow of the eminence above Caftlemilk, where a fpring iflues frpm the roci^ and moiftess the rpot of a thom-tKc, 3 now

i

^ {ktfmunmck. X73

sow gnp«m VtaenUe Dritk age, under ^rfaicli' flie ftt; tnd whtdi is prefervtd at a lafUog memorial ef that melaadiolf^ * dUafter. ^ '

i]^S)^«**Man7 of the people from the liealthful fimattott of the parifliy attain to a good old age. Some carry on tlie laboQfs of the field, efpecially in time of har^eft, at the age of 85. t^et%f are in general the difeafe which prores moft' fatal to old people. There cannot be finer, nor more healthy dttidreny than in thi$ pariQi} bnt from inatrention, diey " often fnffer from colda, ^v^hich when negleAed, hring oit- other difeafes. On which slccount, many children fttflcrbf--^ quinfeys, and efpecially from a difeafe iwftich in Scotland;* '^ goes by the name of die croUp. Tkis' difeafe for the vMk "i parr, prores £ital} if the immediate affiftance of a phyfician *' be not proeored. '

The fmail pM returns very often, and the diftemper ii never alleviated, as the people from a fort of blind fatality, will not hear of inoculation, tboogh attempts have ofteki been made to remove their' fcruples on this fubjeQ; bot every (iich efibrt has hitherto proved unfvccefsful. It is a * circamftance however, worthy of being related, that in' the lirhole A\&n€t of Cathkin, where there have^ always been 8^ ' individuak} thcrp has not been an infhiice of - k de^th by - the fmall pox, for chefe lad 24 years ; though thef difeafb ' hao^ in that period, at liaft appeared fix timesji ^nd'uAiforhiTy vifited every family. 1 . .

Mmmsrif &V.— The whole of this parilh is conneflcd \p^ intcr-marriages ; and this, for 'many ^ges pad, as appears from At public regifter, which has tmiformly been kept. From accurate enquiry, it has been found, that there are not ^iborc 15 perfonsj and thefe ^hlefl^ fcrvantSji ivho have no

focd

X 74 StatiJHcal Account

fixed refidencei who cannot claim alliance with the whole pariih \ fo that when an individual conneAs himfelf by mar* riage, he may confider himfelf as having gained above 500 relations at once, by fuch affinity. Whether he lives happier on this account, or whether, from this extenfive relatbalhip^ firatetnal kindnefs is more ftron'gly called forth, we choofo at prefent to leave undetermined. Certain it is, if people arefi^ inclined, no fituation can be more favourable for giving force to fuch kind exertion. It is the more remarkable, that in the vicinity of a large and populous city, this parifli ihould re« niain, like the Hebrews of old, a diftind people, and pre^ dude, as it were, the whole world from their alliance.

It is but juft to fay, that the greater part of this parifli, are decent in their morals ; fober, honeft, and indaftfi* - oius; and that there is no inftance of any perfon hatiay - fuffi^ved any capital punifliment. Perhaps it would be fay* ing too much, to affirm, that they are in any refpefit^ t)!tter than their neighbours ; but one thing is certain, that" for near three yeais, in which their prefent pallor has lived » among them, he has never feen an individual evertaken by : intemperance. They are alfo in general, uniform iatheiv . attendance upon divine worfhip ; and what few pallors can £iy« - there is fcarcely a family in the parilhi however unfafliioiir* *^ able the prafiice is, who do not affembte, and cepfider it as .. their duty both eyening, and morning, to bow the knee in ac]tnow)edgement to the great Creator* But while we wlflt . not to withhold juft praife, we mud allb mention a cuftom . which fliU prevail$, anci which certainly ought to be aboitlbed* It is ufual in this parifli, as in many other parts of Scotland^ when a death has taken place, to invite on fuch occaGonji^ ' the greater part of the country around ;. and though calied to attend at an early hour in the forenoon, yet it is generally ;<^ieards evening, bcfoipe ihcy think pf carrying forth tlvt^ .

corpfc

of Cartriunnocki * 175

corpfe to the churcli-yard for interment* While, on thefe occafionSf the good folks are aflembled, though they never Tun into txceis, jet no fmall ezpence is inclined hj the fa* milj; who often vie with thofc around them, in giving, as they call it, an honourable burial to their deceafed friend. Such a cuftom is attended with many evils, and frequently iHTolres in debt, or reduces to poverty, many families other* wife frugal and induftrious, by this piece of ufelefs parade^ and ill judged expence*

We are however happy to add, that notinthftandlng the pjefent deiire after innovation, and a love of change, the contagion has not hitherto fpread among the people in this parilh. Means have indeed been employed to corrupt then, and to draw the unwary into the peftilent vortex, but by wfatchful attention, the malignant efforts of defigning men have hitherto been rendered inefie£luaL There arc indeed feme, who have got the hackneyed phrafes of the day, ^< Li« bcrty,** " Reform," &c. but there are none who have openly" pretended to countenance meafures, and pradiices, which by every good Chriilian, and every loyal fubjeft, will ever be abhorred. Happy in our monarch, in our conftitutionji in our rtligioui and in our hws, our defire and eameft prayer is. That our fovcreign, and his auguft family may long be preferved by the good providence of God, and con- tinue to fway the fceptre of equity and peace over a happy people ; and that the inellimablc conftitution they maintain, and the invaluable rights, civil and facred, which we enjoy, may remain until that hour (hall come, that (ball di(roIve the univerfe.

Foriunati ! fimptTy fuafi bona norint

NUMBER

17$ Statical ,£Munt

NUMBER Vir. PARISH OF CARSTAIRS^

(county of LANARK.) By the Rev. Mr JluES Finlatson«

,j Situation^ Name.

THE parifli of Carftairs is Gtuated in the connty of La- nark> fynod of Glafgow and Ayr, and preibytery oC Lanark ; at ^e diftancc of 27 miles weft from Edinbnighy and 2$ miles eaft froAd Giafgow. It is fuppofed that the parifli derives its name from the > form of the ground, which, on the north fide of the YiUage« arifes gradnaHy in feveral long ridges like fteps or ftatrs, and Tunning parallel to one another; fome of thefe along the ' Lanark road feem to have been artificially formed into earthen mounds fimilar to baftions in fortification.

Others with more probability, think that the name is taken from an old caftle which ftood at the eaft end of the village, and had been either a repofitory of ftores or provifion for the inhabitants, at the time that the Romans remained in their encampment here, or a place of ftrcngth to fecurc them from the depredations of their enemies at a later period. Hence Carftairs may be derived from , carr^ which fignifies town or

city,

f^CarJiairu 177

^hy; abd j^lbr, provifion, the town or caftle of proTi« fioa.

ExtMy {9*^.~Tiie length of ih^ pa? ifli from S. to N. li fix miles, and it 19 three in breadth from £• to W. It is fur« ifouaded bj the pariQiesof Lanark, Pettinain) Carnwath, and Carluke. The rifing ground, already mentioned, divides it in- to moor and dale lands, differing cbnfiderably in foil ail4 elimate. The upper or moor hnd pare 19 a mixture of day arid black earth, the dale or low land is a (harp fandf ioil. Both divifions are of a good quality, and capable of producing excellent crops,, were farming more ftudied, ami the land properly cleaned and cultivated. The great ob- ftruQion to improvement is the abfurd cuftom of ufmg turf for fuel, which is altogether unnecefTary here^ as there ii great abundabce of good coal to be had* at a moderate dif- tance. Some of the tenants begin to open their eyes, and to be feafible that the preciq^s. time confumcd ki diggings winning, and leading home peat9» would be much bettet employed til improving the fields* -There is every reafon io think, that agriculture will foon be brought to a hig^c ftate of perfection, as there is 00 pariib in Scotland where ikt farmer haa greater encouragement or more local advan- tages, the leafes ill general being granted for the fpace o£ fifty feven years, at a reafanabk rate^ aiid a ready market at h^nA for every -commodity.

PatroHy Ciurcij C9*r.*-Mr Fullerton of Carftairs is patron; >^d principal heritor of the parifh. There are five other iieritors, two of whomicfidcs the patron refide. The va- lued rent is L. a 150 Scots ; what the real rent is, the prefent Ittcumbem ha&not had accefs to know, as he only became ininifter of this parifli on the 14th of Auguft 1794. He

tdiiXVlll. Z has

n«

StaH/licaf Account

l^s been told, .that the rental is qonfideraUf «bore L. looo fter. and that the ftipend is about L. 50 in monej^ and three chalders of Ti^luaL ^

, A new and elegant church has been built this feafon, 5 1 feet by 32 within walls, with an ayfle and gallery^ the fide wM 20 feet in height, and the fteeple 531 and it is all to be finiihed in a proper ftyle.

^

^ -Rwr.— The prorifion for the poor conGfts of L. 230 fter. 4)f capital ftock ; the intereft of the principal futn, with the yeady colle£lion8 of the church, whtch^ at an average^ it L 16 : 9 fter. are fufficient funds for the pnrpofe*

Population TahU.

W. of families - 187 Profeffions.

Below lb - 717 Qergyman

I

Prom 10 to 20 305 Schoolmafters

3

^- — '20 to 50 - 273 Gardeners

6

•«— 50 to 70 - 96 Wrights

12

JfAioit 70 ' - 3^ Smiths

6

Total - • . '924 'Taylors

16

Mkles • - ' 422 Weavers

23

Females 502 iShoemakers

»4

N*. of Farms • 87 Coopers

3

/ffiotc L. so- of rent, (Icfs Slaters

3

iJianL. ioo) " -* '6 HoGcrs .

2

-^ Above L. 100 - 4 Licenfcd publicans

4

— Above L. 2C(j - I Shopkeepers

4

N*. of horfes ' 21 1 Male fcrvants

68

'■ ■ ■ cows - 396 Female fervants

73

-^— flicep - ' 790 Day labourers

34

•^— ploughs "^ 40

Births.

•

g^ Caffiairh.

»79

Birtbf.

.BarUlt.

Marriage*.

CoUeAiontJ

In 17S4

22

12

8

^.16 9

178J

2(5

It

7

16 li

1786 '

18

10

10

16 15

1787

24

18

8

14 19

1^88

ao

15

7

14 14

1789

29

9

8

16 0

1790

26

20

II

19 *

1791

ai

j6

« -

• .<{U

»79«

2tf

M

'»6

■ ■«■ '8

»793

«9

II

• ,2 ■• •

• 16 '\*

5^3* »3^ *7 jf-i64 12

A correft pari(h regifter has been kept for many years, and. the feflion records extend as far back as^ the yea^. 167^ im which there is nothif^g. int^refting or curioust ej;ccpt|Qg fome fevere rnftances of church .difcipHue, efp^^ly dvjcing[ the miniftry of Mr John M<Laren« who was afterwards fo well known and fo inuch efteoiped at Edinburgh*. Xhi& famous man wa& tranflat^ fijpm Klippen^in P^i^thihirei (9 thfli p^riOi of Carftairs, in 1 6^^ afid for twelve years hsid ruled tbf peopje with a rod of irpi\i %Qce his time the authority oCtb^r lurk feffion has been on ;l^ 4)eclyie« ^ £

Gardemng* — ^This br?n<;h of impijOYcp^pt. is. carried WK Vith great fpirit, and to as high a pitch of perfedlion ^ the nature of the climate will admit. In the gardens of Carftairt Jhoufe which are extenfive^ not only the fruits that arc com- mon, but grapes, pine apples> melons, and every thing which the country can produce in th^t way, are raiied in great abun* dance. The tea, coffee, and other foreign plants have been txiedj and thrive beyond expeftation. The plantations aiound

Zz ^ ' the

|8o Statiftical Account

the houfe, which is beautifully fituated on the banks of tbfi river Clyde, occupy 500 acre9 of rich land, and have been laid out with great tafte.

Antiquities. — The only Roman camp in this part of the country had been oq the fouth Gde of this pari(h| on a rifing ground near the Clyde. The camp itfelf is an exa£^ fquare of fix acresi and notwithftanding the attempts of the plough an4 fpade to deftroy the^ works of that great people^ the pr«to» rium is ftill vifible^ and the walls of circumvallation pretty entire. The caufcway leading to the camp and from it, is in a direA line, and can be traced feveral miles* Pots and difhes of diflFerent fizes, and inftruments of war and facrifice, have been lately difcovercd. Coins of various kinds and of diiFer'* cSit value have bfcen digged up, bearing the infcription of M» Aurelius, M. Antoninus, &c. Some of thefe coins havq been fent'by Mr FuUerton, to the Antiquarian Society^ anc\ t6 the UniverCty of Glafgow,

CharaBer. — As the writer of this account has refided in t^ parifh only for a very (hort time, he is by no means qualified to draw (he charader of the people. He can fay with tf uth^ that they are. regular in attending divine worOiip ; and is told, that they all adhere to the church of Scotland, a few perfons in the extremity of the parifli excepted, who find it convenient ta sutend a burgher meeting at Davie's Dykes.

NUMBEI^

ff Suburb %%i

NUMBER Vtll. PARISH O F S N I Z O I^ T-

(county of INVERNESS.)

By the Rev. Mr Malcom M^Leod.

Situation and Extent. ^nr^HrS pari/h is fituatedin the Ifland of Sky, and county * of Invcrncfs : It belongs to the prcfbytcry of Sky, and fynod of Glenclg,

The extent of this pafiih is confiderablci being between 1 1 and 12 computed miles from fouth to north, and in fome parts, no Tefa than fii^ frpm eaft to weft ; but the form of it Is irregular ; the weft par^ being interfered by an arm of the fea, called Loch Snizort. This loch ftrctches at leaft four' miles inland, in a direction nearly fouth-eaft ; it is narrow and (hallow, and forms bays, and curves, as it goes along.

The parifh of Snizort, is bounded by that of Portree on the fouth ; by that of Bracadale on the fouth- weft ; by that of Diuriniih on the weft ; by that of Kilmuir on the north ; and by the channel between Trotornifh and the Ifland of Ra« fay, (a part of the parifli of Portree), oti the eaft.

Solly Isfc. — The general appearance of this diftri£l is rather ^1} and mountainous } the furfacc is unequal^ and forms

feveral

t%% Stati/lical Account

feveral valleys^ or, as we call them, glens ; yet there are fome fields pretty extenfive, level and arable. The land as well as the foil is various. The Jtand for the rooft part is chin and dry, with fome hanging and fpouty ground; and the foil poor^ light, and gravelly ; and yields no produce, unlefs it is laid over with a thick coat of manure. In the north part, and in a few fpots in the weft, the land is deeper, and the foil more fertile ; and in the eaft fide of the parifh, the land is in general deep, and clay. The quantity of arable ground has never been afccrtained ; hut by far the greater part of this diftrid confifts of uncultivated lands, overgrown wjth heath and heather ; of moor and mofs ; of hills and rnoun* tains, a few of which, are green and dry to the top ; the. greater number however, are wet and heathy. There is a ridge of very high mountains, fteep aod rocky on that fide facing the eaft, running from fouth to north, and feparating; the eaft part of thi^ diftrift of the bajDiliy ofTrptornifh from the weft.

The principal crops in the parifli, are oats and potatoes^ When the feafons are favourable, fuch a quantity of each, as( is ne9effary for the maintenance of its iniiabitants, is raifed within the bounds of the parifti ; but when unfavourable!^ which more frequently happens to be the cafe, there is a ge- neral demand for imported meaU The feed time is from about the 2oth of March, to near the middle of May. The harveft feldom begins before the mrjidic of September, and often not till OiSloberi and the crop isVarely got totally intOL the barn- yards, before the beginning of November, and fre- quently much later; the late harvefts are generally bad, and always precarious in this country ; from the latcnefs as'^ well as from the uncertanuy of the feafons, this diftri£b, and in- deed moll of th^ ifland, feems calculated by nature, more^ (pr gracing and green pafturc, than for raifing cora.

* The

of SnizdfU 183

^ .The middle pM of this parifh, is let to principal tackfmen ^ and both the ends are poiftiled by a fet of fraan tenantry. The tackfnien till the ground with a honie^made p]oogh| drawn by four horfes \ thefe ploughs, be fides the ploughman and driver, always require the attendance of one, and fre« quently two men to lay over and drefs the ground properly* About two years ago, Mr McDonald of Lindle introduced Small's ploughs from the fouth country ; their utility in the great faving of labour in men and horfes being foon obferv* ed, they were readily adopted by the principal farmerS) not only of this diflri£l, but alfo of the neighbouring ones ; fomc of the fmalleft tenants too ufe the common plough, for their weak ground, in the latter end of fpring; yet the chief in* ftrument they ufe in cultivating the ground, is the crooked ipade«

Population f ^r.— Although there have formerly been fom0 emigrations from this, as well as from the adjacent parities ; and although that diftri^t of it, that is (ituated to the .weft o£ die water of Snizort, and Loch Snizort, which was formerly^ let to fmall tenants, is now in the hands of its different pro* prietors ; yet the population feeins rather on the increafe : This I think, muft be attributed chiefly to the, introdu£tipn of inoculation, which of late years, is pra£lifed with grca,t fuccefs. When that malignant difeafe^ in times paft, vifite4 this country, which it then did not very frequently, its de- predations were viGbly felt, in fweeping away almoft whole. fomilies, leaving not above one, two, or fometimes three to* gether in a houfe ; but fince inoculation, to which the lower clafs of people have for fome time been reconciled, became general, it feldom proves mortal, and has ically been fo in ▼cry few inftances. The number of fouls at prcfcnt in the parifli, is about S94 males, and 914 females; making 1808* 3 fouls

i8'4 Statifiieal Jke6uni

ibuh in all. Population in 1755 was 1617. The increafc therefore, is 181. The ftlllon funds of this pariih are H poori (being only the Sundays collefttonsy which are exceed* ingly fmally and a few trifling articles befides), that they i6 ibot admit €>i having a fe(&on clerk, confequently no regifter is kept of either birthS| marriages, or deaths ; ib that no cer« tain conclufion can be formed upon thefe articles^. The funds cf the parifh are diftribtited yeatlyj or once in the two years, a« inong its poor, who depend for their mantainaiice chiefly oci the geiieroCcy of the benevolent tenant.

The number of black cattle^ horfes, and (heep in the parifli^ ia-fiot eafily afcertained ; from the beft information and ftrift- tft enquiry, it is concluded there are no fewer than 2537 cows^ incliiding all at and above a' year old. A certain num* ber of thefe, the different fatmers and tenants drive to Portree^ where two public fairs are held in the y^ar, the firft always ^on the lafi Wedhefday of May, and the feednd 6n the fame day of July foUovP^ing ) arid there difpofe of theoi to the bcfl^ ' advantage; From the money got for their cattle (which is the chief, arid I ma^ fay the only export of the plaCe)^ thef pay their rents to the di&rcnt landlords, and furaifli the requi* fites for themfelves and families. There are no fewer thaii j97 horfes^ all of which are reefed and bred for private ufe. It is believed the number of (heep are nearly about 1952^* chiefly of the fmali highland breed \ ii)e wool of thefe ikee{^ fomc of which is of a pretty fine texture, the diflfbrent fa.* tnilies get manufa£lured into cloaths, ftufFs, arid blanketing ot various forts for their private ufe. A few goats are kept by the principal faripers.

Red foxes, not with (landing, a hand fome premium is given^ for every one that is killed, are ftill numerous alid very dcf* truclive co fliecp and tambs;

Tiler

qf Smzort. 185

The eagle, kite, hawk, and black raren, are to hz fecn here, the moorfowl, partridgCj and fucb other birds as are natives of the weft country, (the blackcock andhismate excepted) inhabit this diftrid, and a few tarmagans are to be met with on the fummits of the higheft hills* The mi* gratorj birds are the cuckow and fwallow ; the wood*cock arrives in the winter, and takes his leave in fpring. Ths feSi* gulls, cormorants, fearts, and other aquatic fowls, fre- quent the coaft : The otter and feal, alfo vifit the iEores. »

ManufaSures^ (5*^.—— Public manufa£lures have not yet found their way into this parifli. The regular tradefmen are weavers, taylors, millers, blackfmiths, houfe and boat car- penters. The generality of the inhabitants are their own mafons and (hoemakers.

There are three mills in this diftrifi, two upon that part of the property belonging to Lord McDonald, and the third upon M^Leod of Rafay's property*

JUvrr/, Antiquities, Natural CuriofitieSy {j^r*— There arc feven large and rapid waters, in the greater part of which, fome falmon are caught from May till Auguft. The chief of tbdfe, is the water or river of Snizort, which takes its rife in the pari(h of Bracadale, and running in a dire^ion nearly north weft, difcharges itfelf in the Tea, at the end of the loch of that name. At about a quarter of a milt's diftance from the fliore, this water iorms an ifland of nearly an acre and a half, formerly the habitation of monks and priefts, but now the burying place of many families^ in this as well as the adjacent diitrids. In this fraall ifland are the ruins of an old large cathedral, which in all probability has once

VoL-XVIil4 A a f been

1 86 Stat0ical Account

been the metropolitan church of the whole ifland of Sky.

Several vcftlges 'of druidical temples arc to be met with, and fome of them pretty entire. There arc alfo duins> all of a circular form, and built without either lime or mortar. Thefe duins or towers are thought to be Danifli, and were ufed as garrifons, or rather watch towers, or perhaps both \ what makes the latter probable, is, that from each of thefe towers, another is feen from either hand ; and when any one was alarmed at the approach of a hoftilc train, a Ggnal could be immediately made, (perhaps by fire or fmoke), .which being foon difcovered by thofe who were next in fight, they could inilantly repeat the fignal ; and thus the whole inha- bitants of the country capable of bearing arms, might in a rery (hort time be coUeded and armed to repel the common enemy.

Many cairns or heaps of fmall flones thrown together are to be feen. In thefe cairns are contained urna, wherein the afties of fome renowned chiefs who fell in the field of battle, are depofited ; in one of thefe lately dug up, was found a large (lone cheft or coffin, made of four ftones, its din>en- fions were about five feet long, by four and a half broad \ up- on the layer, which is a large fingle ftone of nearly fix feet by five, and a foot and a half thick, was found the handle of fome weapon, reftaibling much the hilt of^a fmall fword,but quite corroded with ruft \ and a pin which feemed to be com- pound metal, about fevcn inches long, fomewhat rounder than a pretty large probe, at the one end flat, and broad, and the other round and fliarp pointed. Within thecoiSn was an urn of burnt clay, nicely carved, yet without any infcriptioni the urn being broke by the tools employed in removing the layer, none of the contents were difcovered. Other urns of a fimilar kind have been formerly dug up in this diftriA.

At

of Snizort. 187

At the bottom of one of thofe high rocksi and at a fmall diftance from it, on the eaft fide, is a huge perpendicular (lone, or natural obeliflc of uncommon height and magnitude, which, when feen from a diftance, very much refembles a largo fteeple. This ftone is about 360 feet in circumference at the bafe ; a little below the middle it is a good deal rounder, and dience lefiening upwards, feems to end nearly in a (harp point ; its height is thought to exceed three hundred feet.

There is alfo in the fame (ide of the pari(h, in the march be«« tween it and the pari(h of Portree, a beautiful fall of water, or catara£l, the perpendicular height of which may be about ninety feet ; what is moft remarkable relative to this fall, is, that nearly oppofite to the middle of it, there is an arched hollow path acrofs the rock, along which five or fix people may walk abreaft with the greateft fafety, quite fecure from and unmo« lefted by the body of water that rolls over them, and which in this fituation they might miftake for a thick pillar of clofe fmoke, did they not fee it dafli upon the rocks below.

Di/ea/fjf C5^r»— No local ficknefs or diftempers of any kind arc prevalent in the parifh. In a wet open fcafon, rheuma- tifm, coughs, and colds, are frequent ; fome epidemical fevers appear too, and are at times mortal. The winter and fprings % are generally damp, cold, and piercing. The air, however, on the whole, is not thought unfalubrious, and fome inftances of longevity tend to confirm the opinion ; five or fix people have died within the laft two years, whofe rcfpedive ages were from eighty-four to ninety, and many are now living in this diftri£); above eighty years of age. •

RentSy J5*r.-^Tbere are fix proprietors, four of whom have become proprietors in the year 1 779, at which time they feucd that diftri£l of the pa;?i(h that was formerly the fole property

A a 2 of

i88 Statiftical Accwnt

of the Laird of M^Leod, of ivfaicfa he has retained the (aperU ty» and a handfome annual feu* duty.

The divifion of the pariih belonging to Lord M^Donald^ Tents at above L. 8oo. That belonging to M*Leod of Rafay, at about L. i^o ; and that diftriA, the property of the above mentioned feuers, rented when purchafed by them for about L. aoo {(er. but would now undoubtedly bring them as much more, were they to let.their refpedlive propeccies.

Schools^ Churchy (s'r.*— There are no public fchools in thi^ diftriA. The places of worfliip are four, at a confiderable diflance from each other. The veftiges of a parifb kirk only remain ; an eftimate of one has been taken laft year, with a view of building early this feafon, but no farther fteps have hitherto been taken. There is no manfe, the pre- fent incumbent, Mr Malcolm M^Leod, lives on a ftnall farm which he rents from Lord McDonald \ he became mi- nifter of Snizort in the year 1788. His predeceflbrs in the pari(h were Mefirs Archibald, Donald, Archibald, and Wil^ liam M'Queens, all in lineal defcent, the fon uniformly fuc« ceeding the father for four generations. The prefent miniftec is married, and has four fons and three daughters*

The value of the living, including the glebe, is about L. 75 fter. Th^ patronage is claimed by the crown and the Laird of M'Leod, but both concurring in the fettlement of the prefent incumbent, who had a regular prefentation from each, the queftion of right was left to be dif cuffed before the court competent, at fome future period.

The name of the parifli, as well as the names of mod places in it, are Dani(h ; fome indeed are of Celtic origin ; and in fome inftances, the places take their names from their local fituation.

Kelp.

t>f Sntzort. X89

JE>/j^.— The quantity of kelp manufaAured here is not con« fidenble^ being only about fifty tons yearly, and this on the weft ih<Mfe$ alone ; thofe on the eaft are bold, deep, and of difficult accefs, and yield no ware for making kelp.

There are fome freih water lochsj a few of which abound in fine large red trout.

Herring jFi^^ry.— Confiderable quantities of herring have vificed LochSnizort for fome years paft,common]y in themonth of Auguft, where many of the herring bufles ha?e been pret« ty fuccefsful, but the country people, from' the difficulty of procuring fait, have not reaped from it the advantages they might receive, were the fait laws fuch as to aUow them to fur- niih themfelves at an eafier and cheaper rate.

The fuel ufed through this whole. ctiftri£i b peats ; they are cut from the mpfs, chiefly in the month of May, and when the fummer is wet, the inhabitants are conimonly very lU fupplied.

NVMBER

jgi Statiftical Account

NUMBER IX.

PARISH OF WEST-CALDER. (county of mid-lothiahO

By the R^. Mr JMuckeksie.

Situation and Extent,

THE parifli of Weft*Calder lies in the county of Mid- Lothian/ in the prcfbytery of Linlithgowj and in the fynod of Lothian and Tweedale* The average breadth of this parifb,^ is about 5 4 miles, and the length 10 miles. It is bounded on the fouth, by the Cairn hills, and on the norths by the Briech water, which falls into the Almond, at the north-eaft point of this parifh. The fouthern part, which lies contiguous to the pariihes of Dunfyre and Camwath^ i^onfifts of high and mooriih grounds, interfperfed with nio- rafles of confiderable extent. Thcfe grounds, for the moft part, incapable of cultivation, are parcelled out in flieep farms« The arable parts of this pariih vary confiderably in their value, cither from the degree of improvement, or their local fituation; but the foil of the whole pariih is of a black mofly earth, or a wet clay, both on a till bottom.

The height above the level of the fea, is from 450 to 70© f((tt ; and from this ciicumAance joined to the neighbourhood

of

9f WtJl-CaUet: 191

of the Cairn hills, this parifli is expofed to conGdprable de<- grees of cold and moifture. The chief ftorms of wind and rain are from the fouth and fouth^weft.

Agriculture and Produce.-^Tht modes of agriculture mofl generally praftifed, in all probability have been nearly the fame^ (ince any part of the pariih was cultivated. Hence agrictUture, except in thofe inftances when the common me* thods are departed from, is in its fimpleft and rudeft date* The whole procefs confifts of fpreadtng dung on lee ; allowing it to lie for fome time on the furface, and then taking three or four crops of oats. After this, the field lies three or four years in grafs, and the procefs begins again. In place of dung, the middle of a high ridge, is fometimes opened with the plough, and the furrow mixed with lime, and fpread over the furface. It is fomewhat aftoni(hing, that notwith* (landing this mode of agriculture, the farmer frequently reaps apparently luxuriant crops ; and perhaps the only pro- bable way of accounting for it is, that in many indanges, the crop is not fufficiently ripe to exhauft the manure. The farmers here have difcovered, that lime a£l8 as a powerful folvent on all kinds of mofly earth ; and they have applied the difcovery, with great fuccefs to the purpofes of agricul- ture. The fpirit of improvement has now begun to reach this place. The foil in many cafes, has been by fome of the intelligent proprietors ameliorated, by enclofing with double rows of hedges and ditches, leaving a confiderable fpace be- tween, to be filled up with young trees, adapted to the cli- mate. This has ferved the double purpofe of enriching the ibil, and rendering the s(ppearance of the country more beau*, tiful. One proprietor in particular, has improved his grounds on the beil principles of agriculture ; and he has fucceeded in raiGng turnips, and in a proper rotation of crops.

Oats,

Mg% Sutifiicat Account

^ Ostt^ polatoea^ flax, bailey, ))ea8, and turfiipt; are nifed pk thia patiflt. Th6 grain moft generallf attended to, ia .iaat»i the average produce of which may be from 4f to 5 lolls an acre. When the ground happens to be la^ down , with graiii feeds, the prevailing crop is rye grafs. Of ^Uf there are two kindsj an annual and a peteilni^l. The formdr 'fives a double ^quantity of grafs the firfl: year, which is ilhought in moftcafesi to conFipenfate the continuance of the ••thfn A confidence quantity of rye grafefeed is prefer^ed^ Mkd beides what is fufficient for next yeai's fowing^ there aite .iinqucatLy in good years, from 300 to 400 bolls fcM Ait of tbepaviflu

^v There *are confiderably more horTes reared thanfup^ly th^ iBams '0£' agricoloure; umd the rent ia^moft commonly paid ipom the ^ fate «f caittle^ The high grounds in the fouch mi •auft parts of 'tlsa parifb* sere divided iMo 15 {beep farms | %n<k)ii/is conje^ured, that the whole* lands employed in thia iM«iier» ' may - n^imiun about 6oco Ihd^ • ^HThe{>Mighii^ ianow moftfrd^endy enrtifid bnbf twd iKiffcS) awdrSnlaU^' plough kis^beeointroduced |- wlnle^at tiio ftmc^time,. a givat anaigr of.'theiold /ormers regret the deflse* isMe 4if the old Scots pkugb» aild a greater number ^ horfes f> ttdvafiRtv^hAt theirlbil rehires! •a deep and large fvLn0W$< Jk^i^^kztetlffoOihk tomake^ajlyeof)je£Wre, with iiefpeA W:tiie iretst of sasabte ground } beeanfe the greater nosbcr of ^((niihswe'ibmd outfield pr^roob, (or moor, oanae<£led with tiflttii Weoe it otberwife, iperbaps the o^inary rate t)f ^ato^ Ul^jgOMOidOwouU be ffOii\ i as.^ to ^^s. - an acr^. The fize ^ firfitos is feafUly ki any inftance greater than what is necef* f^ to fuppait a family I rand almoil every attempt to sfccti'* iA!0)ate^thi6'kfnd4>f property ia this pariih, has brought vuia- on the 'projcdor. - '

of Weft^Caideri 1^3

C/ttroAr 4nd Manners rf the Ptdpk.^ln alm^ft every 10. fiance, the local fitoations of men form theit cbaraders. The inhabhanU of this parilh are much eicllided from the commerce of the wbrld^ and nearly on the fame letel with regard to each other 1 their attention is direded to few ob- jects, and herice they are fimple and unafieded in their man- ners & nkhik they poflefs a wonderful degree of fagacity and actttenefs, in every thing €dnne£ted with the circle of their t^urfuits. From the great number df fmall farms, every in#« ttiTidual may lock forward to an eftabliOiment in life 1 and hence faift atteiitioh to bofinefs and induftry is excited. in this ftate of fociety, it muft be confefled, there Is little teope for that ambition, which impeb a hian to rife above his humble fphete \ but this fltttation filppofes contefltitieftt tnd happiiiefi. Fh>m this circuiliftance too, it may be nien- tioned, fli a diara&er 6f this j^opkj that the adtantagea t^hich tHef cannot iecute to themfelveSi they wl(h to c6nvey to their children; and it has been obfetred, that a greats flumber of tUs pariih have been defigned for the Churchy than, perhaps, of any ten patiflies of equal ettent in a highly ctiltivated country, and in a giten time. The great bjUlk of the inhabitants of this parifll have a coiifiderable fliare of teligidiis knowledge, and a becoming fervency ia their detdtion. It is hoped, that they will nOt be charged with fingularity Of maimers, Ivhen we mention, that there ate not peihaps fix families in this parifh, who do not daily» and in a family capacity^ afleOible together tO acknowledge die Author of their mercies. Altogether detached from the capital, they are unacquainted with its vices. Drunkennefs, end debauchery 0f all forts are ftarcely known ; and there ai€ very few inftaiices Of men continuing unmarried^ who liave the means of fupporting a family. This pariih has beea ipaiticularly blamed with difaj8e£Eion to the prefcnt conftitu*

TOL.XVUI. B^ ' tioo.

^4

StdtiJUcal Jecattnt

tlon. From the ftate rf fociety in >K4iich they afc placeifi tie! tcprcfentation of an^ kind of oppreflioni whether Kal of hhaginary, 4s apt to afte£l their mindstf This, howcrcr, is bat a mbmentary in^pulfe ; for, when they find that the chief article8t)f life-, by which ihtf are fupported, are not tlie fub-> jeft of taxation ^ and that what they hring to the market, is taifcd in its value, by the trcry fyftem of which they are taught to complain, the good fenfe of the pstifli is foon brought to prevail over the defigns of thofe who would mK* had them^

Population ^abtn

Families*

Soids.

(7nder9 Tears oM. Makt. temtie*.

derib

Heritors *

II

70

I.

3>

38

26

Fanners *

6s

406

66

185

«SS

163

Cottagers *

»S

107

29

40

3!»

24

Bay-laboorers.

i6

102

30

34

38

2t

Widows -

40

«7

3

6

58

^

Iiin> keeper -

t

S

0

3

2

7

Smiths

3

»4

2

6

d

II

Coopers

3

6

2

3

I

4

Flax-dreffirr

I

5

3

" I

0

Wrights &Mafoiis

7

33

8

14

II

ao

Weavers

8

3*

5

i;

li

S

Garriem

6

'7

0

9

9

Qhoe-mukers

-

7

29

6

12

li

18

Millers

3

10

3

3

w

Taylors

4

18

4

5

6

Winifter

I

8

i

4

0

Schoolmafter

->

I

4

2

t *

I

0

Not included in the above table

J

.10

35

3

15

17

7

221 ^68 169 389

4'o' 321 Froaa

Trom die above table of populatioo, it appears, that the leverage number to a fami)3r» is 4 and near VV » ^'^^ ^hat the maies and females, are as 16 to 17. In the account of Sece* ders, none are recl^oned below 9 years of age** Of thofc Scr cdertf, 14^ are Antiburgher$| 169 Burghers, 7 are coane^ cd with the prefbytery of Relief » and 3 are Cameronians.

The caufes of feparation frqm the eftabliOied church hav^ been extremely various in this parifh* In confcquence of thxs laft fettletnent, from 40 to 50 perfons, have joined the Se« ceffioD. Of thofe feparated from the church for the hft iq years before this period, the ftricloefs of (he church difci« pline feems to have been the chief caqfe*

Eccle^aftkal Siate of the Parijb* — This pirlfti, previous to the year 1646, Was a part of the pariih of MidCalder, and had a chapel belonging to it, at a place which (till retains the name of Chapelton ; about a mile eaft from the village of Weft-Calder. The prefent proprietor, (Mr Oloag), has now in bis pofleflion a large hollow (tone, which (eemei to havp been the font of the chapeU

In the year 16479 the commidioners for the plantation of ^irks, and valuation of teinds, valued the teinds of the pari(h of Calder Comitis, which included the parifhcs of Mid and Weft-Calders ; and allocated the whole teinds as (tipend to the minilters of the two pariihes. The mini(ter's ftipend^ls paid in money, and amounts to 800 mcrks { together with 50 merks for communion elements, and 30 merks for grafs. In addition to this, the gleb^ confifts of twenty Scots acres.

B b % Schools.

* Hie niiinbers dated ^f this pariih in X755» were 3396 ; no more than SSS9, arc now mentioned. But as none are here pocl^pned among the Seceders Mow 9 years of age, the dupinntion moA in fome degree, be attributed tf. fhis eircam(Unce.

196 Sntifiical AccoiM

&A«0//*^The parifb fchool has generdlf tttmidiflg* 1^ Irom 50 to 70 fcholars. Of thefe, itnm (5 to lO are ttctvh ing the rudiments of a claffical education. The fchpol fees, are i {hilling per quarter for EngHibi ts 6d for writittgV 'M for Arithmetic, and 2s6d for Latin. The fehbol-tnafter^s Sa- lary, 18 L. 5 : 5 : 7(1x9 and he has twenty (htllhigs more yeUlyf by a mortification. But a refpe£iable nfumbeir of the heftcon Bave lately agreed tp augment the fatisn-yi by a voluntary ton* tribution, to continue during their pleaAire* Betides ^he eftabliihed fchool, there a^e feveral others in the parifli. One of thefe has been lately ereded, by one or two of the finall heritors, in oppofition to the pariflt fchool. The reft are occaGonal and ambulatory* confifting of the ehild^en o^ a •dozen or more parents in the (UtM; neighbaorhood ; who/' on account of their diftance from the public fchool^ m eonw pelled to hire a teacher for their own families.

Antiquities. -^Toyr^xi% the Ibvthem extremity of this pariflij^ there is an old caftle, which is reported toliare been fottified by Cromwell, to reprefs the depredations of the mofs tro(>p. ers. On the weft part of Hayfield eftate, there was, zUr$r years ago, the remains of an old camp, known by the name^ ot Cromwcll-wit. This is now converted into a com 'field | * and it remains altogether uncertain, whether the name was given as a mark of CVomweirs underftanding in the choice of th^ fituatlon, or as a proof of his folly ; although the laft ajM pears more probable.

About two miles due fouth, there is on the top of a rifin^' ground estlled Caftle Graig, the remain^ of a fmall Romaii f amp, in a pretty entire ftatc. Within a few years, feveral Koman coins have been dug up from the environs of th^ encampment, od which tie Roman eagle was fufficiently ap^

parent.

4^ Wfft^Caldet^f t^

parent, iMitllie circBmftanoes wUdi could^Ietd^to the^ffanod at which thc^r ^tne coined, iHifif e complot^ijr ^fiaqeck '^•f cepting thifl circomftance thcrl: «ffe^ tio prooffi pf x bof iebt pp<? pularioft within this diftrijEh . • rr r . ^ - ^ , . .^

rThnt titt a Sew ai^ttaes pi places, ^s-fimkeh, GobberAiaw^ aad JPoIbcUif which feem to be of 'Gaelic -dermtiqn. Biitf in cvfry inftavicc where a Gaelic name 4$ empioycd, there ir a ri7er> or a mo^fs, r^r a wood» to iE|rbich the name aiigha have been given hcfore the oountyy was inhabited. In ail other tnftanccs, the napies of places> farm hoofes. Ire* aro, in the cMScottifli dialefik, and indicate. a recent date* Tho CpUowtng names may be mencioned as exampks^ Blackmire^ Heugh-h^ad, Slate»heughs , Birny^biUj Moft-e^d, .Rafliif^ hiilt Backp-i^tbe-mofsj Stank-head» Wbilefykea, and Tumf-r moon. . ; . ^

Caal^ S^r.— The greater part of this parifli mod probably . ftattds^m coal. It has been dug fer in various placee^ bat never to-much advantage} except at Langfosdt on the eftater pi Mr Douglaa of Baad»« .The working of .^hts coal has ^o dificantinued for many yeara>, Bot. we,T iipd^rftandt that. the proprietor has now gi^rt^. a Jeafe ; fii>d . fome atierapta hare been already made to findout the bcft pla^ forxr^ing

fuirepgoie. / - K.^

• Iiimeflone is alia foi|f|d h^re in great abundaAce. Oq^, gre^t time-work at LiqfK^ld ia now ;nearjiy exhau(ledr« ^he ftratum of limeftone fcems to have sbeen in thicknsfa : about nine or ten feetf with a fsee^Opne ^oof, and a dip of pne foot in three. Great pillars hav^ been l^t oofupport ther fcofi, and the limeftone has been every where wrought down - to the level. By this means an« excavatieq has been • |opned worthy of the attentipii of the curious obfervcr.

Pari/!k

igt SwiJUcal Account

Parijb Repjfr. — No precife account can be give« from fhc feffion records of marriages, or births, or funerals*

D.lfeafeSi C^'ft— The only difeafes peculiar to this parifli are fluxes, and intermitting fevers, in the end of autumn. There are very few inftances of inoculation, and the reafon againft it, is altogether the religious one, of not bringing on difeai<9 before the appointed time. This pariOi is fui^ciently healthy, and there may be alive at preff nt about Sperfons from eighty |o ninety years of age.

Po9r A/«^.— — The fiinda for fupplying the poor of this parifli arife from the weekly colleAionSj; from the mo^-cloth money, from ^s. 6d. given at each marriage, and from the intereft of a bond for L. loo. Th^ mort-doth and mar« riage money, have been nearly the fame for $fty years paft. The following table will fliow the increase of coUefliona Gncf the year I743. The fum following the difie|[ent yearsj is fof ^x months in the fummer and autumn*

In 1743 • - ;f'S " » 1773 "^ • 639

1783 • 10 10 li

1793 - 9 »6 5

U94 • - 10 8 4

The number who receive charity from the poorS funds^ ia from 10 to 15, and the fum given to each of them is at an average 35* per month^

NUMBER

£

NUMBER X. PARISH Of EASTWOOD*

(COUKTY OF RENFREW.)

jBj tbi &€v. Mr SteVensom M'GiiXi

^I^HIE panfli erf Eaftwood lies about three miles S. Vt* •*• froai the towri of Glafgow^ furrounded by the pa- Hflies of Cathcart, Mearnsi Nielfton, Paifley, and Govan. The greatcft length of it may be about four miles, thd breadth of it about three i but its form is very irregular, fo that its dimenfions in different quarters greatly vary*

A very populous villagei named Pollock-(hawS| lies in that part of the pariib which approaches Glafgow. Ic is (ituated ia a fine talley, interfperfed with trees, and watered by the river Cart and Auldhoufe burn. On the one fide, it is fiEiTted with neat bleachfields in conftant verdure ; on the o- tker, vrith well cultivated inclofures ; and affords from the ftttrounding eminence, a delightful profpeA of a manufaflur^ ing yet rural village*

In its general appeatance, the pariih of Eaftwood prefents all that fine variety for which this part of the county of Ren* frew is diftinguiihed* The little hills rejoicing on every fide,

have

i

«o* BtatyOcat Account

have their brows adorned with plantations or natural wocids* A number of fmall rivers wander among the Tallies ; but chiefly the Cart, fwelled with a variety of rivulets, purfues aimong thtm its courfei till paffing with many windings by the houfe of Pollock, it enters neat the bottbm of Ciockftod the Abbey pariih of Paifley.

iw7, Agricultuhi isfa — ^The foil is rarioWs ; In fomc parC< light, in others heavy; but excepting a trad on the fouth fide; ^hich is tilly and barren, it is in general fertile. The binds are well inclofed ; atid tht hck of the fields aflFords ^mple proofs that the knowledge and the induftry of the fai^met hate, during the ltd twenty ^ears^ greatly increafed;

The mode df fatming is fimilar to tha^ which has been defcr!bed in the accounts of neighbouring parHhes. Pota- toe farming feems to fcle patticuiarly cuhiv^atcd here, and to be well tindeHlood. HorCc-hoeilig is the method moft com* monly followed, and where the grounds ate light and dry is follo'tired with great fuccefs. Sir John Maxwell (bid ill 1793 fome fields of potatoes at L. la : lo per acre, yet the perfbns in th^ village who purchafed them, after all expences were dedu£led, had them at 4^^ per peck of the Renfrew meafure. Dr Smith in his Wealth of Nations, ftrongly re« commends the cultivation of potatoes as a cheap and health- ful food. The porters of London^ he obferves, are among the ftrongeft men in the world, and chey being almoft all of the Irifh nation, have been chiefly fed upon p^otatoes. He infifts too, that they are equally conducive to good looks^ and as examples, mentions the women of the fame nation. It might be added, that no food is more univerfally acceptable to the tafte, or is capable of being ufed in a greater variety of forms. Might not the improvement of it be confiderably tiBftcd by attending more to the kinds which fliould be culti*

of Eqflwood. .^ui

' Tated, aCcertalnlng more clearly than has yet been done, their difierent qualities> and appropriating each kind to its proper foil.

The neighbourhood of large manufafturing towns renders the market to the farmers of this parifli ready and certain. But the price of meal not having increafed in the fame pro* portion with that of the other articles of life, and with the price of labour^ fome intelligent pcrfohs have begun to lay down their farms chieJSy in grafs. "^ In general, about one third is in tillage, and two thirds in pafture. There are kept about 80 horfes, and 350 cows, but feldom any (beep.

Whether die introdufUon of manufactures into the parifh has contributed to the improvement of its agriculture, it is jK>t cafy prccifely to afccrtain. The probability is, that it J^as contributed to it, though not perhaps in that degree which the theories of philorophers would leadens to expe£l. The addition made to the number of inhabitants, mud ^ncreafe the demand for feveral of the articles of living. This leads to induftry and the deGre of improvement. The wealth of the farmer increafes ; and, he has both fufficient nieans and inducements to cultivate his grounds to. the utmoft. This mode of arguing is natural ; but \>^ fixing our attention upon, one view of an objeft, other views equally natural and jult are apt to be forgotten. 'Circumfta;nccs frequently exift of an oppofitc tendency ; which, ^if they do not tounterbalance, at leaft conGderably counteradl the beneficial eiFe£ts of ma* nufaAures upon huibandry. By their neighbourhood the price of labour is .increafed. In order to procure labourers, the farmer muft render the wages of his fervants equal to tbofe given by the manufafturcr. A more cxpcnfive ftylc of drcfs and living generally prevails where the priq^ of la« hour is high. And the landlord finding his expences in-

Vol. XVIIL C c • crc^fing

!i62 Statijllcal Account

trcafing from the fame caufes, naturally thmks of raifing the rent of his land. Thefe circumftancts diminifh the furplos of profit which remains to the farmer^ and confequcntly ieflen his ability . for extenfive improvement. It is far- ther to be remarked, that the value of many articles of life docs not aftually rife with the neighbourhood of ftianufaQares ind with the population of a pari(h. "The price of meal is not higher in Renfrewfhirc at prefent than it was thirty yeafs ago, when manufactures were sn their infancy. To give advantage to the farmer, much depends alfo on the kind of food for ^hich the people have a tafte. If they (hall chufe to live chiefly on but- cher meat, the advantage of their neighbourhood muft be greatly diminifhed, becaufe' fuch food can be as eafily ftflForded from a confiderable diftance, as from the imme* diate vicinage. To this muft be added, that manufadures^ ^y affording a greater and quicker profit, tempt men to employ their money, genius, and chief attention in thofe tnore alluring branches of induftry, while the flower and fmaller profits of agriculture are apt to be undervalued. Thefe are fome of the difadvantages to the farmers at- tending the neighbourhood of manufadures ; though it is not afierted, that they are fufficient to counterbalance their good cfFecls. They are difadvantages, too, which it fhould be remembered, are not always attached to the neighbourhood of manufaflures. Manufaflures may be flourtfliing, when the manufacturer is fully fupplied with hands, and when his manufacture will not admit of more aCtive capital, than he has already employed. In thi^ Ctuation, the perfons who cannot find employment from him, will offer themfelves at a moderate price to the farmer ; the wealth which the manufactures have pro* duced, but cannot employ, will be expended 6n the improve- ment

mtxA of land ; and the manufadu^erhimfelf will carry in* to thb new line of bufin^fs^ (h^t fpirit of enterprize, and thofe adi?e habits^ which diftinguifh him in hi{ own pro* fef&on.

Thefe obferrationft might be extended to the general cf« fcSts of manufadlttrers upon a nation. Writers have com- monly confidered it a$ a fettled poiat, that population muft al^ ways increafe with die increafe of wealth, and that.imprpve* ment in agriculture rauft always coxrefpond with the increafe of population. But both thefe principles require great lin mitation. The population of a country dpes not ne-. peflaiily increafe with the increafe of wealth* Abundance of proYiGo% is without doubt a neceflary requi&te in or« der to an increafe of population. But it is equally -necef^ fary, that this abundance fhould be properly applied. , WitB* out attention to this, no furplus may remain iot, an in^ create of inhabitants ; nay the abundance may . prov^e the mean of decreafe and imbecillity. A nation may in this refpe£l be in the fame ftate as an individual. A perfon who is accuftomed to a certain ftyle of life, though he may have abundance in the abftra£):, yet from his habits he may confume upon himfelf what would have provided for a nu- merous offspring. He is therefore in the fanie fituation as if he were really iti a ftate of poverty. If he (hall marryt bis habits and mode of life may be unfavour« able both to the number and ^he health of his offspring- While the labouring man rears ten or twelve healthy childreRj the children of the luxurious, fewer in number^ 9re often reared with difficulty, and are at laft both weak and unhealthy. This may certainly be the ftate of a nation. If from any circumftances, the body of the people acquire a tafte for luxurious living and diffipated pleafures» or fpend their days in unhealthy occupations^ the nation may

C c 2 be

<ip4 Siatt/Hcu! Account

be ia- pOrerCy in the midft of abundance, ftfid ^reaf 1>0th fev- er and more weakly children dian when it nurfed'tlhem in a more hafdji'- amd Aeril foil, ^and under a more ihclehieDt and' unfettled Ikjr. . '

Neither will improvement in agriculture alwayg cortrf-' potid with an Increafe of population* If frotfi fterilky*tlf' foil and the high price of labour, the merchant can tmpbit grain from foreign countries cheaper than the farmer cati raife it ; or if the genius and induftty of the countiy pur* fue with a firong bent a tn£k different' fronr agriculture; may not* the cultivation of our own fieldt be neg1e£led, and the nadon' be' reduced to depend on other coutitties for its fuftenande ? This is an evil which may in time remedy it- felf. Yet inconveniences may arife in the interval ; and, it it 'ftill an object of attention, tiiat the gbtieral afii^rtipn, that dgticulture muft always improve with the increafe of popiH lition and. manlifafilares, is too unqualified, and ought not always to be confiderod as indifputable by phiiofophexs and legiflators. -

The average of land is about L. t per acte. Gronddft in the neighbourhood of Pollock which had been for fome time in lee> have frequently been let for two years at L. 4: 10 per acre. The valfaed rent of the pariih, is about L. 33CJ0 Sc^tS'* money; the real rent, it is believed, about L. 3400 fterHng. This is dividdi among five landed pro« prietors; among whom this jiarifh has the happinefs of nuikibering the twd atints of the prefent patron, Mrs Mont- gomery of Auldboufe, and her fifter Mifs Maxwell ; whofe re- iidence difiufes bleilings on their neighbourhood, and who are the diftinguifhed, though unafiefled examples of every jriitue and of every duty.

Natural

^ Katarai l^/fef^.— The natunl hiftoriaii wQl find^ in feverat pares of diis t>ari{h» objefis meriting his atteiuion. Tn the* ne^ixnirbood of Thoridie-bank, a fcnall 'viQage, there is a ftratum of fchiftus, which has particularly attraAed noticew It is-a goo4 many yards in diicknefS) and contains a great fa- riety of marine produftions^ in a petrified ftate. Specimens of leveral genera of (hells are found in fine prefervation* The crthoceratites both plane and- fulcated, retain the origi- nsd. Jbell; a circtimftance which rarely occurs in natural hif« tory». - ' The fpecimens of fhells, &c. are fiHed with iron ftene, cbntaining a proportion of lime. Many nodules of iron ftone •of • different (hapes and dimenfions> -are imbedded in ^he ftra^ tttihof fcUftus*.

Mant^sBurei^-^t^ht ihanufa^lures carried on, are chiefly the weaving of muflinsi bleaching, printing of calicoes, and cotton fpiniling. In thewveaving branches, th^re were em* jAofed, iq 179^, aboM* 470 looms: In printing, bfeadiing^ and the occupations connected with them, about 2a6' men and, boys, and 174 women. There are'alfd two cotton mills ill' the ^arifh, which at thb fame period, employed above 600 pcrfons of different ages. The principal print-field here is among the oldeft in Scotland* Thfe parifli feems well adapted to manufafiures $ and in general, the people are mote healthy than thofe> ufiially are who follow Aich occu*'' pations. This may be owing in part, to the frcfli cufrents of aik'i which blow frequcn^tly with confiderabic ftrength be- twixt the furrounding heights ; and very much to the tradef^ man mingling fometimes with his fedentary employment, the exhilarating and healthful exercifes of the garden and the field.

Population*

• Mr David Ure,

2o6i ' Statiftical Account

Population.-^\xt population of this parlihj in 17939 wken its numbers weie taken^ amounted to 2642 young tnd old perfonsj divided into 558 families. Of this number 1349 are males, 1293 f^n^^l^s. Below 10 years of age, 361 are males, 351 females; below 20, 352 are males, 304 females | below 50, 505 are males, 480 females ; below 70, ic6 arc males, 136 females; below 100, 25 are males, and 22 are fe- males. The average number of perfons to each family is fomewhat more than 4^. During tea years preceeding 17049 it appears by the regifter of the parifli, there were 219 bap* tifms, and 81 marriages. During the fame period, precede ing 1793^ there were 795 baptifms, and 234 marriages. The average of births in a year, during the firft period^ is about 22} during the laft' period, 79. SuppoGng the proportion betwixt births, and the whole population, to have be^i the fame in each period, the numbers will have been tripled ia the courfe of one hundred years. In the births of the hj% ten years, there are 121 males, and 98 females. In the births of the la(l ten years, there are 402 males, 393 fem^cs. The births of laft year were 94; the proportion between the births and the whole population in that year^ was near ai one to 28f •

Church School^ Is^c. — ^The patronage of the parifli belongs to the family of Nether- pollok. The (lipend is 5 chalders of meal, i chalder of bear, 300 merks of money, 100 merks for communion elements. The glebe, including the- ground occupied by the manfe, offices and garden, is believed to con- fid of about 5 acres. There is no land allotted for pafture. The manfe has been lately re^built. It is a commodious handfome houfe, and is very pleafantly fituated. The manfes which have been lately built in this neighbourhood, have, in general, {hewn the heritors of the country to be a6iuated by

fentiments

fcntiments at once fuited to the liberal ipirit of gentlemen^ and refjpeAfuI to the office and chara£ter of the miniflers of religion. The church was a few years ago alfo ire-built. At that tinie it was removed from the neighbourhood of the toianfe, to a fitnation nearer to Pollok-ihaws. It is now beautifully fituated upon a rifing ground above the village^ and IS one of the neateft country churches within the diflri^t. The fchool-houfe too was lately re-built, and equally with ^e other public buildings, does honour to the heritors of the parifli. The number of fcholars is 105: Of this number^ 3^ are taught reading of Englifh, 23 writing, 1 8 arithmetic^ 4 book-keeping, 2 mathematicks, and 22 Latin* Among thefe 17 boarders are included. There is an annual exami- nation of the fchool, which b attended by the principal per« fons of the parlfli, and a number of the minifters and gentle* men of the neighbourhood. On this occafion, prizes of ufe- ful books are diftributed among the young people* OccaCon- al examinations when the fcholars have no previous informa* tion alfo take place. Thefe methods feem well calculated to excite emulation, and vigorous exertion } and the appearance of the fcholars] has hitherto done credit to their teacher. The falary of the matter, is L. ibo Scots, with a free houfc and garden. He enjoys alfo the emoluments arifing from being clerk to the Seflion. The fees of the fchool are, for Latin 4s, Arithmetic 3s, Mathematicks 5s, writing 2s 6dj Englifli 2s per quarter, for perfe£iing in book-keeping, L. i : i* The terms for boarding, waQiing and education, are L. 20 ptr annum*

P^0r. — The number of enrolled poor is 24. But about Mo neccflitous perfons befides thefe, are occafionally fup- plied every month. The funds for fupplying the poor are the weekly collections at the churchy the product of mort-

cloths.

^ot Statiftical Account

clothS) and the intereft of about L. 500 of mortified money* The average of difburfements during the lad ten jears^ is L. 74 : 2* The Seflion educates befides 8 poor children. Various charitable focieties are alfo inftituted throughout the parilh. The obje£t of thefe is to aflift fuch perfons in dif« trefsi or their widows and children, as have contributed when in health, a certain annual fum to the fun4$ of that focietf to which they belong. They feem calculated to do much good, and annually difburfe conGderable fums. No beggars belong to this parifh *, but this want is abundantly fupplied from the fuburbs of Glafgow. Were the laws againft va- grants put in execution, and were every pariih obliged to maintain its own poor, the real obje£l^ of charity would be much better provided than they are, and much idlenefs and worthleflhefs would be prevented. The money given to va- grants is oft^n not a relief to the poor, but an encourage- ment to vice ; whereas, when the poor are confined to their own parifli, which is obliged by law to maintain them, our charity is bellowed only upon proper objefts, with whofc cafe we are acquainted, and in whom we are more in- terefted. The money given to vagrants diminiflies, befides» our alility to relieve the truly neceflitous. If a perfon can fpare ten poundi each year to the indigent, and gives one half of this to vagrants, he takes five pounds from the funds of the miferable; and by means of it perhaps encourages idlenefs, drunkenefs, and debauchery.

The ScfSon meets regularly on the firft monday of every month. The whole difburfements are examined annualIy^ at a meeting compofed jointly of the heritors and the ScfBon j a pra£lice which is futisfa£lory to the minds of all parties, and by which any fubjeft which feems to be of importanc9 to the intercfts of the parifli, can be conCdcrcd with advan- tage and effc£l.

Parj/b

^ Eqjtwood. ^0^

Par^b RjKoris.'^Thc records of 3tffion eitend back to the year 1689* They contain, frtquentiy, circumftances which mark the peculiar manners of former timea. In the earliet periodsj the meetings of Seilion were feldom held. The good morals which prevailed, it is prefumed, rendered fre- quent meetings unneceflkry. Hiis is the more remarkable^ when it is confidered that every fpecics of vice, and even of impropriety, were fubje£ts of cognizance. Sometimes too^ We find their attention dire£led to objects which will appear t# the prefent age, of a fingular kind. A woman is delated for ufing charms at Hallow-even j who, to ufe the words of the record, confefles^ " That at the inftigation of an old <* woman from Ireland, (he brought in a pint of water from *' a well which brides and burials pafs over, and dipt her ** {bin into it, and hung it before the fire ; that (he either ^' dreamed, or elfe there came fomcthing and turned about ^ the chair on which her (hirt was, but (he c9utd not wM fa *' nobai it ^as^ Upon this, (he was ordered to be rebuked before the congregation. Let not the wifdom of our fathers however be treated on fuch accounts lightly. The innocence or guilt of all afiions depends much upon the views which governed the a£lor. What m^y;^ now mere amufement^ when it was performed under the belief of ^cantation, and witih a view to the agency of evil fpirits, wa^ a proper fub- jo£l of animadverfion to thofe whofe duty it was to watch over the moral and religious conduct of the people. In dif* ferent meetings of Seffion, and among the elders^ are to be found the names of Lord Pollok, one. of ^he Senators of the College of Juftice, and his nephew and heir Sir John Max- i^ell', and, it is related of them,, that they conceived it to be their honour, as well as their duty, to fupport in that parifli over which they had influence^ the caufe of religion, and her conftant attendants^ decency, order, and true happincfs. Vofc. XVin. D d The

II o Statijiical Account

The ancient family of Nether-poUok has been long the prin- cipal family in this parifli. It has in its pofleGion feveral origi- nal papers of confiderable antiquity, which defenre attentioa. Among thefe, the chief which the writer of this account hashad an opportunity of obfenring, are the following: A precept from the Lords of Council of King James V. to meet his Queea when (he came firft to Scotland, dated 15,27 ; a letter from (^Mary Regent, 1559 j a letter from Morton and others, anent the murder of the Kng, 1567 ; a letter frooi Q/^Mary, before the battle of Langfide ; a letter from King James for an hackney to the Queen, 1590 ; another for pro- vifion to the Prince's baptifm, in 1594; and the original. With the fubfcriptions of the firft folemn league, figned by the King and Council, 1587. The letter from Kingjamesj for proTiGon to the Prince's baptifm, is a great curioCty, and deferves to be made public, as affording a fingular piAure of the times. The original of the folemn league, is written with great di(lin£lnefs and beauty, in a chara£ler refembling Italic print ; and can be read with as much facility, as the mod modern writing. The folemn league was at firft 2, deed didated by wifdom, and a jull zeal for our deareft in- tereds ; but the peculiarities of a party which were after- wards aflbciated with it, and which by many, are conCdered as having belonged to the original tranfadtion, have brought it into difrepute.

There have' been five mlnifters in this parifli, befides the prefent incumbent, fince the Revolution. It is fingular that two of thefc, namely, Mr Crawford, and Mr Wodrow, have written hidories of the Church of Scotland. The hif« tory written by Mr Wodrow is univerfally known. He was boru about the 'year 1680, and died in 1734. Befides his worth as a miniilcr, he was a man of extraordinary induftry and application, to fuch refearches as were connedled with

the

r

of Eqjlwood. 211

tl\e antiquities of Scotland* He had made a large coIIeAlon

of pamphlets and manufcripts. He wrote a great deal } and

particularly employed himfelf during the laft years of his life^

in writing the lives of the principal lc;a.nied men of Scotlax^,

whether gentlemen^ minifters, or bilhops \ who lived before

the period at which his hiftory commences* Some of his

manufcripts with the materials relating to them^ .are now in

the library of the faculty of Advocates. Some of them are

in the repoGtories of the Church ; and fome part of^themj

his biography in particular, is (till in the hands o(hirdeC:en*

dants. He was among the firft who attended to natural hjf-

tory in this country ; and he left behind him a fmall mufeum

of foflils, chiefly colleAed from his own parUh^ and alfo a

colledlion of medals. The church hiftory of Mr &a:(vf^4

has never been publifhed, and therefore the tirriter of ihjs

account has been at pains to procure fome infori^tion rc-

fpeAing it. The raanufcript is in the pofleffion of the

church. It confifts of two volumes folio, containing up<9

Trards of 1400 pages. Prefixed to the hiftory is a fhort life

of the author. From this life it appears, that he was a native

of Greenock ; that he obtained the degree of A. M. in the

CoDege of Edinburgh, and that by the patronage of Mr J^ha

CarftairSi one of the minifters of Glafgow, he was fent to

Utrecht. There he ftudicd two years, wrote fcvcral trcatifcs|

chiefly controverfial, and maintained fome public difputations.

In the year 1671, he was liccnfed at Glafgow, to preach the

Gofpel, by a meeting of Clergymen, held for the pur-

pofe in a fecret manner, in order to avoid the penalties de«

nounced at that time againft the prefbytcrian non-confor-

mifts. In 1671 he was, with the confent of Sir John Max-

iv^elH privately ordained minifter of Eaftwood at Paifley.

Enjoying the friendlhip of the family of Pollok, he often in

ftbofie perilous times preached to fuch perfons as ventured

D d 2 * IQ

aia Stati/iical Account

to aflemble in the houre of his patron. Though froquently fi^arched for, he had the good fortune to efcapc falling into the hands of his perfecutors; but hi$ patron was fubjeQed to fevere diftreiTes, on account of the prote£tion which he afford- ed him. After the acceflipn of King William, he bore 4 principal part io arranging and fettling the aflairs of the church. His hiftojry commences with the introd'u^iion of Chriftianity into Scotland, and ends at the year l<>8o. He appears to defcribe at great lepgth| the occurrences bofh citU and eccle(ia(l;calj which took place iu the reigns of Charles L and 11. The wars which the firft carried pn againft his par- liament^ and the perfecu^ioQ with ^hicli the laft fo long harafled the Frefby terians, compofe a great part of the fe€0{i4 volume. I fliall tal^e the liberty of tranfcribin^ the two following paffages from his book, << About the end of ^^ this year (1664) appeared a great comet, which continued *' a great time ; after which enfued the plague, and the Dutch f < war. Some faid that when faithfu} minifters were difcharged ^' preachingi God fet a preacher in the heayens, which no *f bifhop could depofe. In March 1665, appeared another cp* y met, moving from th.e north- eaft, to the fouthweftj^ conti* *^ nuing yifible for %o days togethc^. This fpring there was ^* fucfa froft and fnow, that there was no tillage from the f * end of December, to the 1 3 th of March ^.'* After giving an account of the murder of the Arch-bifbop of St Andrews, he obferves, ^f Good men, although they did adore the r^gh* *^ teous judgement of Gpd^ in taking away fuch an enemy at •' fuch a time, yet they ^id not approve the maimer of the ^* taking away of his life ; and many had thefe verfes in their ** mouth, made by Sir David, lin^'^^y of the Mount, on the ^* death of Cardinal Beaton :

« As

* Would not this remark indicate, that the tine of tUUfs was earJScr aa that period, than at prefent ?

f

^ Eq/hifoodm 913

«< Aft for tbe Cardinal I grant

<( He was the man we might well wast ;

^ Grod will forgive it fooa ; *' Bat of a truth, the footh to fajr ff Although the town be well away^

«^ The faa was fouUy donet"*.

KUMBE&

214 Stati/Hcal Aceoant

N U M B £ R XL PARISH OF KILSYTH.

(COUNTT or STIRUNO.)

Sj tht Rtv. Mr Robert Rennib*

^'T^HIS parifli eonfifts of two baronies, the etft and tht "^ weft. The foimer for many ages has been called Monaebrugh. The latter Kilfyth \ but till the year 1649, ^^ belonged to die parifli of Campfie.

Origin rf the Names. — ^The etymology of the names is un- certain. It feems even dubious whether they are of Latin or Gaelic original. If the name Kilfyth be derived from the La- tin, it may perhaps have been a compound of cella^ a churchi chapel, or burying ground, and Cet€^ a Romifli faint. And it was certain that there was a chapel in that diftriA ; for though it is now rafed to the foundation, the place ftDl bears the name of Chapelgreen, being the fite of a fchooK

If the name be of Gaelic original, it is rooft probably de«' lived from cuil a cell or burying ground, and fcotb^ peace. This derivation is equally plaufible as the other* For near Chaptlgrecn, which is almoft in (he centre of the weft baro-

Oft

ny, ther&was formerly a tomulus or cairn of ftones. Hiat this tumulus was a burying ground or funeral pile, is certain \ for an urn and aflies were fome time ago found in it. And there is a faint tradition, that it was cre£led orer the dcad^ ilain in a memorable battle, fought between the natifes and the Romans } which was the forerunner of a peace. It is but juflice to fay, however, Ihat the (ame tradition bears, that the: natives were furprized unarmed, and therefore, had rc« courfe to the firft ofienfive weapon that offered, which was theix/cytbs ox ficUei. And from this circumftance, it is£iidy the di(tri£l derived its name«

The etymology of Monaebrugh, b as uncertain. Gentle* men acqu^unted with the Gaelic fuppofe it to be a compound of mwaugbf biily, and ebrocb^ a "place full of rivulets. And it muft be acknowledged, that this is defcriptive of the general appearance of that diftrid* For it confifts of an endlefs fuc* ceffion of hill and dale, from one end to the other, and it ta - interfe£led by a. great variety of rills.

•Others have fuppofed it to be of Latin original. If fo, it is perhaps a compound of mona^ a monk, and Ebroch^ the name of a fmall rivulet which runs through this diftrifl. And ia confirmation of this, there is a tradition in this pariih, that a certain faint, whofe name is not recorded, had a hermitage in a fequeflered glen upon this very rivulet.

Situation. — ^The whole pariih is fituated in the county of Stirling, fiut it is the fouthermod extremity of it. The form of it is an irregular oblong fq.i|^re, running in length along the great high way, leading from Edinburgh to Clai- gow, 7 Iniles. The breadth is nearfy one half of its length. Of courfe, it contains nearly 24 miies fquare, or about 1 5000 acres* The rivers Carron on the norths and Kelvin on the fouth^ Inchwood burn on the wcil^ and the BuQi burn on the

eaft.

21 5 Siat^icai A&ctmnt

eafti form tKe natural boimdaries of the parifh r and It lies contiguous to Denny on the eaft, and Campfie on the weft^ to Fintry and St. Niniant on the norfh, and KirkintuUodi and Cumbernauld on the fouth. I never faw a feparate map of the whole* But there is a very elegant beautiful and cor- ttOt plan of the eftate of Kilfyth, in the pofleflion of the pro*> prietor. And in the map of Stirlinglhire} in. Atlas Blaviana^ there is a very minute and pretty accurate delineation of this parifli*

The general appearance of the whole to a firanger is ra* ther bare and bleak. A child may number the trees ; but there are a few fmall copfe woods. The eaft barony has tery much the appearance of a highland di(lri£l or ftrath. Even the weft is very uneven in its furface, and much in want of planting and proper inclofures. There is not a ftrip of planting in the parifii. It forms altogether an ez« tended firath between two lines of hills ; in fo much, that at one point, it feems to be part of a great ditch, interfeding the kingdom, terminating at the Frith of Forth on the eaft^ and Clyde on the weft ; being at nearly equal diftancei from either. It fends feveral ftreams to both. For near the centre of the pari(h is the fummit or higheft part of the whole ftrath, from whence iflues the Kelvin, running weft^ and Auchencloch burn running eaft. The DuUatur bog^ through which they both run, is almoft on a level with the water in the great canal, which cuts it into almoft equal parts* And the canal is at that place \6o feet above the level of tlie Forth, at Grangemouth.

Though the fuvtace of this pariih is rough, broken, and uneven, being almoft an uninterrupted fuccelTion of hiU and dale, yet we have no mountains of any note. The higheft iorm a part of that ridge which rifes at Greenock, runs through Kilpatrick^ Baldcrncckj Campfie^ Kilfyth, and 2 Denny,

of Kiifytb. 2it

Denny, and thus interrcAs the whole kingdom. To us they feem to rife to a confiderable heighth^ and to form a natural fiielter from the northern blaft ; bat none of them are more than 1 200 feet above the level of the valley, or 1368 above the fea. From the fummit of the higheft there is one of the mod extenGve, beautiful, and variegated views in Scot« land.

The firft thing that arrefts the attention, is the amazing ex- tent of profpe£l that opens all around. At lead part of 14^ if not 16 counties, and perhaps one half of Scotland, is un- der the eye at one glance. Though not nearly fo beautiful and variegated as that from the top of Benlomond, the view is richer, and more extenfivc. For, being nearly at equal diftances from the Atlantic and the German oceans, the nvhole extent of the Ifland from eaft to weft is viewed at once. Towards the fouth and north, the profpefl: is ftill 'more ex- tenfive. At a moderate calculation, the area of the whole may be 12000 miles.

The ftriking contraft between the Highlands and Lowlands is the next thing that attrads the attention. If you turn your eye foathward from the Frith of Forth to Clyde, and from Fentland and Galloway to the Ochils and Kilpatrick hills, the vrhole feems one extended fertile plain ; or rather, like a beautiful garden (heltered on all hands by the furrounding mountains, and divided into numberlefs beautiful inclofures^ like the compaflments of a flower garden.

Nothing can poffibly be a more ftriking contraft to this^ than the profpeft to the north. For 70 or 80 miles, it ap- pears to be an endlefs fucccffion of hi!* upon hill, overtopping one another till they arc loft in the diftance of the profpeft, and blended with the blue clouds or azure iky. In a foggy day, or frofty morning, the profpeft is truly pifturcfque. Being raifed entirely above the fog, the whole plain to the V0L.XVIII. Ee . fouth

2i8 . Statijltcal Account

fouth appears like the fea In a calm ; while the hills on the north feem to raife like iflands out of tht main» or like the tumultuous waves of the ocean in a ftorm*

Though there is fcarcely a peep between any of the hills to the north, yet there is an infinite variety of fcenery of every kind to the fouth. The friths of Forth and Clyde, with the iflands they contain ; a vaft variety of lakes and rivers, woods and wilds, with innumerable rich corn fields and inclofures ; the great canal, and villages^ towns, cities, and ihiresj add beauty, variety, and grandeur to the whole.

Soil —Where there is fuch an uneven furface, there rauft of courfe be a great variety of foil. In general a light fandy or gravelly bottom is moft prevalent \ excepting in the rich, beautiful, and extenfive valley weft of the town. It confifts of a rich ioamy fertile foil, from 2 to af feet thick ; and con* tains upwards of 600 acres. The weft barony is upon the whole the richeft; approaching often to clay : the eaft is more gravelly. In fome places the furface Is almoft entirely covered with fmall ftones, from the quarter of a pound to two or three pounds weight. Thcfe, however, are not fuppofed to be inju- rious> but rather an advantage to the foil. They are faid to pre« vent the ground from heaving and cafting the feed in fpring,— to ihelter the tender blade in fummer. They are fuppofed like* wife to prevent the fcorching rays of the fun from withering the corns,— to retain the moifture in great drought ; and, by retaining alfo the -heat all the fummer night, to promote ve- getation. Perhaps the principal advantage is generally over- looked ; which is, th^t they throw off a kind of laminous rind or (hell, like the coats of an onion, which, being mixed with calcareous earth, moulders down and meliorates the grounds. Tlie fandy foil which prevails here, though light and ihallow, is generally productive } always eafily cultivated, ^^ and

o/KilJytb. 219

and fufceptible of much improvement at a moderate expence. Being naturally dry, it fuits beft with a wet fummer ; and would almoft require a (hower every day.

CHmate.-^-Oi courfei it is very well adapted to our climate^ which is rather watery. As we lie along that line of hills which reaches the Atlantic on the weft, we are* expofed to frequent heavy (howers from that quarter ; efpecially when the wind is wefterly, which it generally is for nine months in the year. The hills at Greenock attra£t the clouds that rife from the Weftern Ocean. And, if the wind is high, it con- veys them along the whole line of hills. If there is only a gentle breeze, which veers a little to the N. W. the clouds follow the line of the Clyde, and leave that of the hills at Dumbarton or Kilpatrick. This, of courfe, is the point to which the hufbandman, in hay time and harvcft, looks with eager fufpence : And it is a kind of barometer which feldom fails. For, if the clouds leave the hills at Kilpatrick, and fol- low the line of the Clyde, we may reft affured, that we (hall efcape the fliower} but we can feldom efcape, when the clouds follow the direflion of the hills.

But though the climate is in a certain degree molft, it is far from being unhealthy. The air is in general pure and falu« brious ; perhaps more fo than either near the eaft or weft coaft. For as we lie at an equal diftance from both, we are of courfe free from the peculiar inconveniences of cither. We are feldom vifited with the fogs which prevail in the eaft ; and are not expofed to the almoft inceflant rains, which predominate in the weft. The fogs feldom rife fo high \ and the clouds ace often expended before they reach us. Hence, in fummer and harveft the fky with us is often clear and ferene \ when at Greenock it is cloudy, dark, and lowring, and on the frith of Forth thick aud fo^y i a& may be feen at a diftance fromi Qur

0 hills i

azo Statiftical Account

hills $ and this too not for a day or two occafionally, or in » few inftances, but frequently, and for confiderable periods of

time.

iWwri.— The rirers in this di(lri£^ arc not very Fcmatk- able. The Carron, both for fize and clalEc fame, claims our firft attention. It is, as its name denotes, a winding fiream k efpecially in as far as it is the boundary of this parifti. The honny links of Carron water are well known, and well deferve the appellation. For upwards of 3 Engliih miles, that river runs, in a flow ferpentine courfe, through one of the fined, richeft, and mod extenfive meadows perhaps in Great Bri- tain. I fuppofe it may contain near a thoyfand Scottifli acres. In fummer, during the hay-making, it prefents one of the gayeft and grandeft fcenes of the kind to be feen any where.

The next in order is the Kelvin. It takes its rife near the centre of this pariih ; and it runs weftward through the val- ley, in a flowj oozing, ferpentine courfe, upwards of four Englifti miJes within this parifli. Hence, it was formerly al- ways gorged up at every turn the river took, and overgrown with flags, rufhes, and water-lillies ; fo that it frequently overflowed the adjacent valley, giving it the appearance of a great lake, or confiderable arm of the fea. By this means, the hay in fummer, and the corn in harveft, were often flooded ; and all the lands that lay within water mark were greatly injured.

About three years ago. Sir Archibald Edmonflonc, Bart, of Duntreath, who is proprietor of the lands on the north of the river for upwai ds of 4 miles, propofed to the heritors on the fouth, to have a new cut made, as wide and deep as to con- tain all the waters ; and as nearly in a (Iraight line as the fitua* tion of the grounds, and the courfe of the river, would allow. Fully fenfiblc of the advantages of this undertaking, and eager ,

of Kilfytb. MI

to promote and encourage it, he generoufly offered to be at two thirds of the whole expence ; although, in jadice, it could only have been expe&ed that the one half iliould have fallen to him. Tet, at firft, only a few of the numerous heri- tors on the fouth, accepted even of thefe advantageous terms ; {o that, for the firft fummer after the contra^ was made, there was onlj a mile and three quarters of the new cut formed.

The advantages even of this partial improvement wer« foon experienced. The river, in place of oozing through a muddy crooked courfe, at the rate of a quarter of a mile iti the hour, runs within the fame time, with a ileady equable and full current of two miles ; and eafily difchargcs all the water, without the leaft danger of overflowing its banks.

Even though this had been the advantage, it would have been more than fufBcient to compenfate the proprietors for the expence of the work* But this, though a great is one of the leaft of the advantages they now reap. Formerly the val- ley on both fides, being nearly on a level with the furface of the river, even when there was no flood, was of courfe, gorged with water ; fo that the meadows were almoft impaf- fable for cattle at any time. Even pnrt of the arable lands was often almoft in the fame ftate ; and was of confequence unpTodu£live, unlcfs in very dry fcafons. At all times, the crops of hay and corn, before they could be prepared for the ftack or the bam, were dragged from the fields to a dryer fituation, with prodigious labour, and confiderable expence ; and what was of as much confequence, with great lofs of time. Now it is otherwife, the cattle have accefs to the meadows at all times. Even in winter, when they were for- merly like one continued lake, they are now fit for pafture. And in fummer, the hay may be made where it grows, and waggons drive along the grounds which were formerly a moraju As there is a fall of about i8 feet in the courfe of

the

221 Stati/lical Account

the whole new cut» and as it is generally four, though in many places fix feet below the furface of the adjacent grounds^ it ferves as a general drain to the whole valley. So that every furrow which was formerly a little water ditch, and every ditch which was formerly gorged up to the brink, is, or may be eafily drained ; by this means, 300 acres of meadow may be turned into arable land ; €0 acres of mofs into meadow^ and 500 acres of the fineft arable land in the parifli, may be rendered of double value, in the courfe of a few years; and that too, at very little expence.

Thefe advantages were feen by all the moment the firft part of, the cut was finifhed. So that it was an eafy mattes to procure the concurrence of all the heritors of the fouth^ for extending it nearly two miles farther, the following fum- mer ; and that too, upon more equal terms* Of courfe, the advantages aniCng from the work were extended in pTO« portion.

The plan was formed, and executed under the infpe£^ion of Mr Robert Whitworth Engineer. And like all his other undertakings in this country, gave great and general fatisfao^ tion. To prevent all difputes, and if poflible any law fuit^ two arbiters were mutually chofen by the heritors on the fouth and north, to mark out the line of the new cut, ia confiftency with the plan propofed, to judge of and determine any difference, and to afcertain the comparative value of any little parcel of ground that fell to be exchanged, or to bo fold.

The dimenfions of the cut are various, in proportion t* the quantity of water it receives. For a mile at the top^ where there is only a fmall river, it is only from 18 to 2e feet wide at the furface, by 10 or 12 at the bottom. But as it receives new accefiions of water, it was proportionally en-» hrged. S9 tha( the fecond mile^ it is 7A or 24 at the top» .

ofKilfylh. «3

by 14 or 1 6 at the bottom* And the loWeft atid remaining part of it, is 28 by i6 or i8« Of courfe, the whole cut is of a regular form, floping gradually on each fide, and happi-* ly proportioned to the quantity of w^ter it is meant to dif« charge.

The ezpence of the whole was not above L. 6oo fterling | a fum which is indeed very inconfiderable, when compared with the advantages of the work. The fame contrafkor un- dertook both parts of the cut, but at different prices. The firft part he engaged to cut for 2d a cubic yard. But in that cafe, he was not bound to form the banks into a regular floping ridge, but only to lay down the earth regularly, at leaft a yard diftant from the edge of the cut. And it was underftood, that each tenant or proprietor, would at his leifure, and at very fmall expence, form it into a regular bank. As this was negle{ied by many, it was therefore judged molt advifeable, to contraA not only for cutting the remaining part, but for forming the banks. Of courfe, 2d| the cubic jrard was offered, and accepted : and as the vhole courfe was either a fine rich folid mould, from two to three feet deep, or a ftiff clay mixed with mofs, it was found to be a reafonable allowance. The bank on either fide is three feet from the edge of the cut, and for the moft part upwards of three feet high. And as they flope equally both ways like a ridge, thjey may be ploughed at pleafure, or fown with grafs- feeds. If at any future period it (hould be neceflary, they may eafily be raifed a foot or two feet higher* at the fummit ; leaving a water courfe, of from 30 to 40 feet wide, from bank to bank, fo as to contain double the quan- tity of water. For one foot at top would nearly contain as much as four at bottom.

It may be worthy of obfervatton, that as foon as the work wras contra£led for, numbers from England and Ireland, as

well

2^4 Statijlical Account

well as Scotland^ flocked to it. So that it was finiihed in the courfe of a few mpnths. The Scotch and Irifli for the mod part^ ufed the fpade and wheel-barrow ; and by their ftmazing perfeverance, woiking from fun rife, till fun fet^ they made great wages, and greatly expedited the work. But in wet weather they were much retarded. The planks became flipperyi their fpades and wheel-barrows were all clot* tied over with mud and clay, fo as to become very cumber* fome. Though they excelled the EngliOi at other timesj by their pcrfeverance, they were in wet weather far behind. For theEnglifii feldom or never ufed the barrow; but only a light narrow fpade, about i8 inches long, and 6 inchet wide ; and fcooped or hollowed out in the mouth. With this they threw out wedges of earth and clay, from the deepeft part of the cut, over their, (houlder, with the greateft cafe and expedition, to the diftance of 6 or lo yards. This appeared to me a (imple, fafe, and very expeditious method i^ and peculiarly adapted to fuch a work, in fuch a foil.

The whole cut has now the appearance of a fmall canal* And if the banks were planted with willows, or even one hedge rdw of them, they would foon adorn the whole plain } and become a valuable article to the proprietors*

£xceptit\g thefe two rivers, there are none elfe in this parifii ; though there is a variety of rills, rivulets and burns. The moft remarkable of thefe is the Garrel burn. This, as its name denotes, is a roughs rapid, turbulent Jlream. Its 'whole courfe is in this pariih, and does not exceed 4 miles. Yet in a mile and a half, it falls nearly icoo feet< So that there is a great number of ca.tarafl:s, and water falls in its courfe. But though very romantic, and even awful ia times of a great flood, yet as none of them are above 50 feet perpendicular, they are not very diftinguiflied.

This

cf Kilfytb. 425

This burn formerly poured all its ftream into the Kelrin % after running clofe bjr the north fide of the town. But about ^5 years ago, it was carried off by the canal company, by a fmali canal, about a quarter of a mile above the town, into a large refervoir about a mile to the eaft*

The remaining burps are fmall in c<Hiiparifon widi this. And they are only dillinguifhed by the great number and va- riety of water falls, and milns ere£ted upon them.

The Inchwood burn is the boundary cS this parifli on the weft. Next to that, is the Quinzie burn, on which there is a Hat and a corn miln. On the Garrel bum, th^re is a ful« lers miln, a lint and a buffing, a meal and a barley milm

In the eaft barony there is Shaw^end burns on which there is a thre(bing miln near its fource, and a lint and buf* £ng, a barley, a corn, and a fnuff miln farther down, and below the great refervoir. Near the eaftern extremify of the 'l^ariih, is Auchincloch burn ; on which there is in the courfe of 60 yards, three lint milns, three buffing milns» and a corn miln} and all of them, are well fupplied with water.

Bridges.^^lt is almoft unncccflary to fay, that along the courfe of the great high road to Glafgow, there are bridges acrofs all thofe rivulets. On Inchwood-bum, at Inchwood ; on Quinzie bum, at a farm houfe of that name ; on Garrel barn, at the town of Kilfyth \ on Shaw-end-burn, at Shaw- end ; and on Auchincloch-burn, at Auchincloch. Along the fame line of road, there is a number of fmaller arches> thrown over the fevetal rivulets that crofs it ; which fcarcelf defcrvc to be mentioned. But the bridge of Carron over that river; and of Auchinftcnic over the Kelvin, arc the largeft, and by much the moft remarkable within the pariih. The former confifts of one large and a fmall arch. The latter of fix fmall arches. Of courfe its appearance is rather fingular.

Vol. XVIII. F f and

%76 Statl/lical Aaount

and it has fomething of the air of antiquity about It. Per* haps it is not unlike fome of the Roman aquedufts*

For this reafon, feveral diflinguiflicd antiquarians of rank and literature have fuppofed it to be a Roi^an bridge. At far as I could learn, they have been difpofed to be of thii opinion, princtpallyi becaufe it is within half a mile of the great Roman wall, precifely at an equal diftance from the eaft and weft end of it, acrofs the valley, which was the boundary of their dominions ; and at the only narrow place over which a bridge could conveniently be thrown ; at leafi: if that valley, as was fuppofed, was at that time cither aa extended lake or impaflable morafs.

^ BeHdes thefe eztrinfic circumftances, the bridge was fap* pofed to bear in itfelf evident marks of its being a Roman antique. It was narrow, being only about 9 feet wide ; it had no edges, at leaft, none above 4 inches high *, and aborc all, it had a femita or foot-path, of hewn ftone> about 10 inches wide on either fide.

But all thefe circumftances put together, though in the (eyes of an antiquarian they may feem to amount nearly^ to demonftration, muft give way to ftubborn fa£%s.

In cutting the courfe of the Kelvin, not 20 yards below this bridge, there was found the remains of a paved ford or. caufeway, built together with wood, which was ftill entire ; a few horfes flioes, and pieces of iron were found in it* TThis revived the general fufpicion, that the bridge was not fo old as was fuppofed ; and a tradition that about 100 years ago a man and horfe periflied in pafiing this ford. But what put the matter beyond the poiTibility of a doubt, and confirms the above tradition is, that anK>ng the late Lord Kilfyth's old papers, of which I ihall have occafion to fpeak afterwards, I find that his Lordihip made application to the quarter Seilions at Stirling, in the year 1670, for, money to

erca

ofKilJyth. 227

oreCt a bridge acrofs the Kelvin, at Auchinfterrle. In thefe papers the precife fum is ftated, the name of the mafon who built the bridge, is likewife mentioned ; and there are people

alive, who recollejl to have feen a (lone on the weft edge of

the bridge, with the above date upon it«

Lahs, is^c. — There are no natural lakes in this parifli. But the great refervoir above mentioned^ is perhaps one of the largefl: and moft beautiful artificial (heets of water in the kingdom* It is of an oval f6rm, fully three quarters of a xnile long, and fomewhat lefs than half a mile in breadth ; and it covers upwards of 70 acres. The country around it is Tttgged and uneven, and gives the whole a romantic air. A few firs are planted at the eaft end, and in an ifland near the weft end of the lake. They thrive very well, and add variety and beauty to the whole* The expence of this work was very inconCderable, in comparifon of the furface and quantity of water it contains. It was originally an extenfive hollow, as if fcooped out for the purpofe, by the hand of nature. At one place only, there was a deep opening, about 100 feet wide at the bottom, and 200 yards at the top. By filling this up to the heighth of about 25 feet, the work was at once completed. And by leaving a fluice in the centre, it can be filled or emptied at pleafure. The, whole is finilhed in a mafterly and ingenious manner.

This lake abounds with fifh : and, if it were not occafion* ally let out in the drought of fummer to fupply the great ca- aal^' it would furnifh abundance of perch and trout at all times, and of the very beft quality* The lade that runs from it, and communicates with the canal, is one of the beft ftreams for trouting in the parifh : but it is only a ftream s and therefore not to be compared with the river Carfon. Thii) in its whgle extent,, from its rife till it reaches thd

fiz Forth,

%%% Siatijiical Recount

Torihr 16 one of the fineft rivers in Scodafid. The qfianlit7» quality^ and fize of th^ trout, — the endlefs variety of pools and ftreams, — and the openaefs of its bank$, all concur in Tendering it the fayourite retreat of the angler : bi fo mueh^ that people of all ranks, and from a confiderable diftance, fe- fort to it in the fifliin^ feafon ; and there is fcarccly a peafant or ihepherd on its banks, who is not eager in puvfnit of thi^ amufement, and eminent in the art. Whei;^ the river is rapid and turbulent, and of a clear channelly bottx>m, the fiibes are f mailer and whiter after being dre^ed : but in the larger and deeper pools, efpecially as far as it is the boundary of this pairilh^ where it is for the mod part a large, deep, wind- ing river, they are redder when drefled, and darker when caught, and much larger in Gze. 1 have feen them two, three, . and even four pounds weight ', and from i8 to 24 inches long^ and full grown ♦.

The Kelvin, and all its tributary (treams, at leaft before it

was

* There is a tradition, that fifh were much more abundant 50 or 100 years

^ ago than now. It is even faid, that before the Partick miln-dam was ere£bcd

OTer the Kelvin, (almon in fpawning tinse came ap as far as Killyth, and

were to be found in every pooL It is certain that none have been ibund

£oce.

The reaibns why the fmall fiih are Ids abundant, may be,

ift. That there is much more lime ufed as manure than formerly : And it is allowed that the lees of lime are deftrudtire both to the filh and their ipawn.

ddly. There is much more fiaz raifed. Bein^ watered in the rilb an^ rivulets, it poUutes the ftreams, and renders the water noxions toaU, aod fataT to many.

3dly, Drag-nets and pock-nets, i. e. nets in the form of a bag, are often uTed, though contrary to law : all the larger fifli are by that means dcf- troyed.

4thly, As none of the heritors reirde, fifliiug is quite a common pririlcg;tB iritb us : It is of courfe the amufement of crery idler.

cf Ktlfyib. %29

cut and ftreightened, furaiQied a 6oilfidef»ble ^pnntUf of fine trout. The pooh were nufneroiu and large. Bot, bdag a znuddy flow nmning rirer^ it became a harboar for pikes : This troraetotts animal preyed upon the fmall fifb* Sat noWf that the cottrfe^ of the river isr open and clear^ and firee of pools, the trottt mud in time become more abundant; whefeas the pika can find little or no harbour.

The great canal, in all likelihood, will prove a yerj ample Ibnrce of fupply for all kindd of fi(h that delight in a ftagnanC SMiddy water. Perch, pike, and brozes^ already abound. The Gift, though numberlefs, and caught even by childrca with the greateft ea(e, are as yet for the moft part very fmall. They fcMom exceed 6 inches^ though I have feen them a foot long. The pike are both abundant and fully grown :- forne^ times they are firom lo to 20 lib. weight ; but for the moft part from one to four. They are generally cavght by lines baited ; fcldom or never with the rod and fly : and it is #nly the amufement of children to catch them, the true angler feldom thinks it worthy of his attention.

Sprwgs.-^Thcte 19 perhaps no diftrift where there is a greater variety and abundance of fprings. Along the whole brow of the hills they abound | and they are equally remark- able for the quantity and quality of the water they fend forth. There is one or two fo copious, that during the heat of fum** mer they will each fill a pipe of 3, perhaps 4 inches diameter 4 and the water of almofl: all of them is as pure as crydal. Two have been confipcrated to their tutelar faints, and dill beat their refpe£iive names ; the one is called St. Tartan's, per* haps a contradion of St. Tallertan's y the other, which feema to have attra^ed the attention of our forefathers for many ^generations, is called St Mirron'^. There is a third that go^a by the name of Kittyfrift well. There is no fuperllitions ve«

neratioa

23^» StatiJHcal Account

aeration paid^ nor any virtue afcribcd to the waters of any of * them. The laft mentioned is rather regarded as noxious^ And the waters of it are faid to have proved fatal to the un* wary traveller : But this feems to be a vulgar prejudice. The water appears pure and falubrious \ but as it lies upon the hilly road to Stirling, and near the very fumtnit of the hill, perhaps fome traveller, in the fervid noon of a fum- iner> day, overheated with the fatigue of climbing, may have ralhly tafted or drunk liberally of the cooling fpriog% This, at all events, muft have been dangerous* Perhaps, at one time or anodier, it may hsve proved fatal.

There is one mineral fpring in this parifli, about a quarter of a mile above the town, and near the old manfion-houfe of Kilfyth. It feenis to be a (Irong chalybeate ; and is faid to have been ipuch reforted to in former times, and deemed medicinal in certain nervous affcdions of the ftomach It is now fo totally negle£ied, that it is not eafy for a ftrangerto di{lingui(h the placQ where it was, I know of no chemical analyfis having been made of the watery but, as it taftes an<L fmells fomewhat like rotten eggs> or the fcourings of a foul gun, iis it makes filver black, and wood of a reddifli yellow, I am difpofed to think it is impregnated with a CQnGderabl» quantity of fulphur.— -— In one of our lime quarries there aro evidently fbme fpripgs of a petrifying quality, but none of ;fcny*ote,

' Minerals. --^Thc mineralogy of tlio pariih would'fiU a vo* lume ; and might engage the attention of the natural hiftori* an for a life time« As I do not pretend to be an adept in that (cience, I (lialt only give a general glance at the fubjeA.

The firft article I (lull mention, is the iroo»ftone. la

both extremities, and near the centre of the parifli, this has

been found \ and there are favcurable appeairauccs in a v-arie**

3 XJ

^f Kilfytb. 431

ty of other places : excepting at Banton, in the eall barony, ft has not been wrought to any conHderahle extent ; but it is upwards of 25 years Cnce it was firft wrought there by the Carron Company ; and it continues to be wrought to a con« fiderable extent, ftill furnifliing generally about 5000 tons every year. The number of miners has been yarious, but In general from 50 to 60 ; and as there is ftill a great field re- maining, it may employ as many hands, and furni(h as great a quantity for many years to come. It confifts in general of feveral ftrata, from 4 to 14 inches thick ; feparated from each other by their feams of clay or dalk, and fubdivided by per- pendicular fiiTures into fmall fquare wedges, from fix inches to two feet.

Thefc feams are principally the property of William Cadell, Efq. of Carron-park ; though fome part of them belongs to the Carron Company.

In the weft "barony belonging to Sir Archibald Edmonfton, there is a very , uncommon collection of ball iron ftones ; thefe are of a beatitiful form, and exquifite richnefs and qua« lity. They are uniformly of one ftiape ; refembling a round flat topped loaf of bread, or an apple pudding ; but they are •f all fizes from a quarter of an inch to 12 inches dia* meter.

When broken or cut afunder, they exhibit within a great variety of fquare partitions ; thefe are generally filled with . white fpar, which the old foffilifts call feptaria. But I have feen them quite empty; and beautifully excavated like a honeycomb. Being pretty hard, they receive a fine poli(h ; and they have been wrought up by marble cutters into orna- ments, in-laid work, or cabinets. Some of them arc truly beautiful ; but their intrinCc value confifts in the fine quality and great quantity of iron "which they contain ; they are fup- , pofcd to be the richeft that have ever been found. The Car- ron

sji StatiJlicaJ Account

yon 0>mpan79' who buy up aV the Iron- (tone in this parifb^ and in almoft all this county^ pay for this at the rate of 96 per ton delivered at their works, or on the banks of the ^eat ca« sal. But this is generally allowed to be a ^rice very inade- quate to its value, which is comparatively great. For the mod part thefe balls are found in a deep bank of blaes. They lie in regular ftrata, at unequal and irregular diftances. But the ball« of each ftratum are generally of the fame Cze ; towards the top of the bank, they are fmaller, and larger be- low. Though the balls, when colie£ted, - are valuable, yet the quantity of blaes is fo great, in comparifon with the quantity of iron-done, and the (Irata are at fuch a diftance^ that it never can be wrought to a great extent with much ad* vantage. Yet, as it lies on the courfe of a rapid burn, and as the blaes is foft and friable, there are confiderablc quanti- ties of it waftied down daily, but efpecially at every flood \ while the balls are left behind. It is in this way chiefly that they have been hitherto coUedled.

Immediately under the bank of blaes in which this ball iron (tone is lodged, there is a very fine poft of lime-ftone. In fome places it is only '3 or 4, but for the moil part 7 or 8 feet thick. It is a conglomeration of fmall (hells, of all Hzes, from an inch diameter, till they become fo fmall as to be invifible to the naked eye. Their form is as various as their fize : but for the raoft part, they are long and cylindrical, and fomewhat like a fcrew* I believe the technical name for fuch is orthoceratitse. They are generally fuppofed to be an extraneous foflil \ for the original (hell has not yet been difcovered in any of the frequented feas. The greateft part of thefe are very fmall \ though I have feen fome an inch in diameter ; and 3 or 4 inches long.

At one time, I had occa&on to pick up a petrifadion rather of an uncommon (hape, fize, and colour. It was lod- ged

tf KUfyth. »33

ged m the clay above the lime ; and it refismUed much an elephant's tooth, at lead it was of the colour of iTory, and aa fmooth. It was preclfely of the form of a large tooth or fmall crooked horn, about an inch and a half diameter at the bafct and tapering till it terminated in a (harp point. The wa-> tcr that ooaes through the fiflures of this poft of lime is clearly of a petrifying quality. And all thefe apertures are 611ed with clay and petrified (hells. Where this poil is thickeft^ which is at a place called We ft fide, it has been wrought for fome years by minings and has been burnt in draw kilns. As the roof is good, the poft generally 7 or 8 feet thick, and ctivided into fquare cubes by horizontal and perpendicular fif« iVire$, it is wrought to much advantage, at a very moderate expence. It may be wrought for ages, for the poft feems inexhauftible. And it is nearly 700 feet above the level of the valley, and muft therefore always be level free.'

As it confifts almoft entirely of {hells, it is of courfe, •£ the beft quality ; and contains the greateft quantity of calca« reous earth, and the leaft proportion of fand of any lime per- haps in Scotland. Therefore the demand for it is great, and increafes every year. Confiderable quantities of it have been fent to Glafgow, by tlie great canal. But the greateft part is employed in this parifh, and in the parilhes of KirkintuU loch, Cumbernauld, and Cadder. , Upwards of 1000 chaU ders have been fold this fummer ; though the work is proper* ]y fpeaking, in its infancy. It is fold at fo low a rate as 8$ the chalder, or 6d per boll, and is the cheapeft lime in this neighbourhood, though it is the beft. The boll is equal to three firlots of corn meafure.

Below this, about a quarter of a mile, and in the courfe of the fame burn, there is another pod of lime. It is of a very free grain ; and of a dufky marble colour, capable of a fine poHOi. But as the poft is thin, net exceedmg 45 inches, .

Vol. XVIII. G g and

Z34 Statijlkal Account

and is covered with a deep bank' of blaes, from ib to 3a feet thick, and without a proper roof, it can never be min- ' ed, nor even removed without confiderable expence.

In a variety of other places, there are favourable appear- ances of lime \ efp^cially in the eaft barony. Near the cen- tre of it, at a farm called Berry-hill, there arc fcveral ftrata of lime, which have been wrought to advantage. But it is much more fandy, and contains lefs calcareous earth ; and is in every refpeft, of a coarfer quality. Yet, as there is a good roof, and, as it may at all times be wrought level free \ as it conGfts of fcveral ftrata, of above 6 or 8 inches thick, with interftices of clay about the fame thicknefs ; and as it is divided into fmall fquare wedges by perpendicular fiflures, it is wrought with cafe and little expence ; feldom or never re- quiring the force of powder. But the road to it is fteep, and in bad repair ; therefore the demand for it has not been great, except from the immediate neighbourhood.

I fuppofe however, that there may be at leaft J 500, if not i^cc chalders annually thrown out from the three pofts put together.

Befides thefe, which have all been turned to account, there is ^bout a quarter of a mile ^bovc Weft-fide, a vein of copper, which was wrought about 60 or 70 years ago, by order of tliC York building company. Of this, I could not have given any diftlnfl account ; uniefs it had been examined by the in- genious Mr Rafpe, in the year 1791* As his report is very accurate, and now before me, I (hall ftate it in his own words, in the note below *.

In

• ** I examined a drift, which had been driven into the fide of the hills " near Corri, many years ago. And found in it a vein of rcddifli heavy fpar, «' or vitriolatcd barytcs. It has been very prcpofteroufly fhut up, with a view V as it would appear of preventing or difcouraging any farther trial. For as

•* the

ofKilfytb. 235

In a variety of places, but cfpccially'in the farm of Don" trocher^ about ^ mile above the town of Kilfythi and ia the

G g a valley

*' the drift was horizontal, it conld not occafioa any danger to cattle. I had " it opened for me, juA wide enough for me to creep in, on all fours. I " found the drift within very narrow, 8 fathoms upon the run of the vein, " which is north and fbuth. At the forehead a (hort crofs drift appeared ead ** and weft, full of a nifly clay as it were, upon a crofs goiBin, or clay vein,

* the thickne(s of which remains as yet undetermined. The heavy fpar veii^ ** feems here to be interrupted by it; though it may probably con« ** txnne a good way beyond it. For it appears clearly, in the face of ** the brae, many fathoms fouth and fouth weft, the other way : fo that there ** is no doubt of its being a regular fpar vein of a cdnfiderable length and ** width. In the drift, it is about % feet, and in the above mentioned fouth ** or fbuth weft end, rather more than that even at the grafs."

" Confideriog that this kind of heavy fpar is the conftant matrix and at* ^ tendant of metals of all the veins and works which I have fcen and ex- ** amined in the Ochil hills and Highlands ; — that the vein is favourably *• (itnated in high ground, on the very edge of the hill ; that confcquently, it *• may be undercut very deep by fiiort flanking levels ; and chiefly, that ** in (bme parts, it is thinly fprinkled with copper ore, I think it my duty, to '* recommend a flight trial of it, by a covple of trial pits of;3 or a fathoms, as ** al/b by a couple of cofteening pits or trenches, upon and beyond the crois ** goflan, or clay vein in the forehead of the old drift."

** The coft of tins trial will probably not exeeed L. aj ftcrling. And the

* refult of it whatever it may be, will be fatlsfa£tory ; whether ore be fonnd', *' or only the nature of the vein afccrtained fully, as a road for fpirited fpc* ** culators to venture upon hereafter."

The abovo report is {o accurate and important, that I truft it will not he thought tedious. And the following claufe, I think, merits attention. •* Higher up in the Haleftain burn, I faw large mafles of grey, and varicgat-

* ed, dull coloured flint ; yellow and red jsfper, with nodds of agate •• and porphyry. If the jafper could be traced here to a regular body, which *'|isnot unlikely, lap*daries might be fupplied from hence, VC17 cheap; or ** rather, lapidary milns might be fet up in the burn, or at Kilfyth, to great

* advantage. For this jafper is of a very fine grain ; and fomc how or other •* finds its way already to the lapidaries and fcal engravers, at Edinburgh ^ »nd l-ond«n,"

1

^^6 Staiiftifal Aaount

V2tlley aUb| there dre favourable appearance! oF a day marie. But as no trial has been made of it, I cannot (peak with cer- teinty» either of its quantity or qualities.

About a quarter of a mile fouth of the town, within 30 yards of Auchcnftcrrie bridge, and 100 of the great canal, there is a valuable and inexhauftible quarry of bafaltes*

The whin- (lone rock is from 20 to 30 feet high ; and a^ there is very little furface upon it, it may be wrought at a fmall e^pence \ more efpecially, as it is in many places io- terfcfited by horizontal and perpendicular fiflares, whereby it 18 cut into blocks of all different fizes. It is peculiarly adapted for caufeways, or paving the ftrccts of any populous city. The (lone is foliJ, compa£l» and durable ; yet though extremely hard, and therefore capable of receiving a very fine poliih, it is very free, and eafily formed into almoft any iliape. The prevailing colour of it is a (late blue, beautifully freckled with little white nodules.

The demand for this (lone has been confiderable. Several thoufand tons have been annually conveyed up the great ca- nal to Glafgow, and the neighbourhood; and it is faid to be equal in quality to any (lone that has been found. Though at the didance of 14 miles, as it is conveyed by water, it can be furnifhed at as cheap a rate, as if it were within 3 or 4 miles of that city.

1 may add, that near the centre of this patifh, in the Gar- rel glen, about half a mile above the town, there is one of the richcft, (ined, and moft beautiful pofts of free- (lone in

Great

I have feen fomc of thcfe myfelf, they are beautifcl indeed. Spectntcns of each are in the pofleCon of Mr Robert Wilfon at Banton, who has with much labour and ingenuity, made a beautful and pretty complete coUe^ion of the minerals and foflils of this parilb. It would be a happy circumftance if thece was in every parish a cabinet or coUeAion tf the fame kind.

. ^fKilfytd. ^37

Great Britam ; and happily it is inexhauftiblc. The colour of it is exquifite ; for the mod part, it is a beaatifol white, with a tinge of yellow* But fome of it is finely variegated with brown and yellow veins, like marble. Other parts of it are decorated with the mod delicate vegetable impreiBons, as Uack as coal. Some of thefe ^re as fmall as a hair, and when the (tone is finely polifhed, they are a beautiful contraft to the reft of the mafs. I believe no free-ftone is capable of a finer poli(h. For though it is foft and eafily wrought when firft brought from the quarry, it becomes daily whitr er and harder when expofed to the weather. It becomes hard, white, and of a fine cpnfiftence \ and fo durable, as to iland all weather, and fuit every climate. Of courfe, it is equally calculated for building above or below the furface of the earth or water ; and for the fineft ornaments, an(l ftrong- c/l and coarfeft pieces of architeflure. In the erefiion of bridges, where it is expofed to the conftant attrition of the water, and in paving (Ireets, it is particularly ufeful. Of courfe, it is much efteemed in Glafgow, and wherever it is known. Many ftreets in the New Town of Glafgow are paved with it ; and it has been formed into fome of the fineft ornaments, fuch as vafes, columns, and 'fretted work. The demand for it is great, and it is foJd at a reafoui* able price. Even when delivered at Glafgow in blocks, ic is only as the yard for pavement ; and there are upwards of I GOO tons conveyed to Glafgow by the great canal every year *■.

I am convinced if its value were known, there would be 9 greater demand for it than there is from many places of Scot- land,

* This qnany is fct at L. 40 (leriiog annually. Eacli quarier ii| allowed jdf tbe yardy for his work. Land carriage to the canal coAs 3 pence per yard ; for lordfhip 3 pence ; trackage and tonnage in the canal are trifliog.

13^ Statifiical Account

land, but cfpccially from England. For if free-flones arc ^ conveyed to London from the country north of Aberdeen on the caft cdaft, and ftom Stcvcnfton in the county of Ayr on the weft, they certainly might be conveyed with equal advan- tage from Kilfyth. The great canal pafles within lefs than a mile of this quarry ; and I am perfuaded, that a load of Kil- fyih free-ftone either roughly formed or in the block, would be a valuable commodity of the kind. For if fold in Lon- don at L. I : I2S. the ton, as free-ftone of inferior quality is, it might furnilh a very liberal freight, or as ballaft prove a profitable branch of trade.

The poft is generally from lo to 15 feet, and lies upk)n a fcam of coal about as many inches thick. There are a great variety of coal ftalkh, rifing from this feam, like trees from the furfacc of the earth. Some of them are 6, 10, or 20 feet long in proportion to the depth of the free-ftone ; and they differ as much in diameter as in length, being of all fizes from an inch to 2 feet. Thefc are juftly efteemed by philo- fophcrs obje£ls of great cutiofity. And they have fur- nifhed matter for much fpeculation ; they refemblc exceed- ly a petrifaftion : and yet the fubftance is not calcarious earth, but folid free-ftone of fimilar texture with the circumjacent lock. I have in my pofteflion, one the largeft and moft beau- tiful that has hitherto been found. It is nearly 16 inches in fliameter, and 6 feet 9 inches in length, of a compad folid inafs. For tlie original ftem when entire was upwards of 12 feet long \ but the tcp, as is generally the cafe, was Icfi folid, and mouldered down or was eafily broken when ex* pofed to the open air. In fliape| colour, and appearance^ it precifely rcfemblcs the trunk of a thorn tree ; in fo mucb^ that every ftrangcr at firft view fuppofcs it to be one. It feeais to be of equal folitlity with any part of the mafs ; and the .{"uifacc of it 14 beautifully f^pctted with regular iridcntatloQ«

much

tf Kitfyth. 339

much like tlie furfacc of a fir top. BcGdcs thcfc, there art likewife longitudinal feams from end to end, refembling the trunk of an old yew, or thorn tree. It is unneceflary to fay, that the circuoijacent cafe bears a Gmilar impreflion, only reverfed. But it deferves to be mentioned, that within the fame trunk, and at different angles, there lie a variety of fmaller ones, from two to three inches diameter. Thefe are fcldom parallel to one another, and cannot be extra£led without deftroying the large trunk ; but when extracted, they fliew beautiful impreflions ; finer by much than the larger trunk. Thefe fometimes branch out into regular ramifica- tions at top, as they almoft always do at bottom ; and the fmaller the branch the finer and more delicate the impref- • fions upon its furface ; in fo much, that ' the fmalleft will bear and almoft require to be examined by the microfcope. I gave one of them lately to a gentleman, who promifed to fend it to Weir's mufeum.

It is unneceflary to add, fori believe it is a common thing, that there are uniformly vegetable impreflions along the bafe of the coal and furface of the dalk or bhes. Thefe are fo cndlefsly varied, that I cannot pretend, nor would it be pro- per to attempt an enumeration of them.

Coal — The only article that remains to be mentioned, is the coal. This has been wrought for ages ; and is ftill abundant, I truft inexhauftible. The fc:ams arc various, and of very diflerenc quality. The coal in the weft barony, is one of the bcft I ever faw. It burns clear, lafts long, gives a good heat, and cakes, fo that the very drofs of it is valuable ; and makes a better fire than moft other coals. Happily for us this feam is now wrought to a confidefable extent, and promifes to be a lafting benefit to this parifli and the neighbourhood. Robert Dunmore, Efq. of Ballakinrain, is at prefent the tackfman ; 2 and

t4(y Statijtical jdccount

and as he is % gl!ntkmaii of a liberal mindi and public fpirk^ I have no doubt that he will carry on the work with fuccefs and to a great extent. This fame feam has been wrought for generations in different places of the weft barony ; but it was gifen up for many years, till lately the work was re- ¥ived.

The coal in the eaft barony, efpecially at Banton and Glen Garrcli is of an inferior quality. But for that reafon, it is Hfeful for a variety of purpofes which the other could not fo well finrve. It gives an uncommon heat, but upon being ex^ pofed to the air, it moulders down into drofs. And when thrown into a chimney, it is fo brittle, that whenever it is touched, ic turns into a powder or mere gum. But in an oven, or furnace, or fmith's forge, it is of great fervice : and is one of the beft coals for thefe purpofes in the kingdom. Of courfe, there is a great demand for it from printfield^, and' other public works, and from fmiths, for 6, lo, or la miles round.

None^of thofe coals are far below the furface. Of courfe, they arc eafily kept level free. In the weft barony, the feam is generally from 4 to 12, and in the eaft from 12 to 16 fathom deep. The ftrata in Gkn Garrel, where coal has been wrought for 50 years without interruption. He generally in the following order :

I ft. Soil and rubble.

2d, A thin bed of blaes, or fomctimes channel* 3d, A poft of free-ftone, from 10 to 20 feet thick. 4th, Indurated (luvers, blaes, or fometimes in its place a thin feam of coal 1 1 inches thick.

In the eaft end of the parifh, at a place called BuOi, is the richcft and beft feam of co^ ; but it is not level free, and therefore would require a fire engine. It has been wrought to a confiderablc extent. I find that Lord Kilfyrh^

ordained

Xff Kil,jth. %^\

^dered it to be opened in the year iSyo. There are near- ly loo coal pics that have been wroaghr* . In general, the dip of all the coals is to the fouth eaft^ But when it meets with what are called hitches, the dip alters in every direAion. In one place at Balcaftle, the coal was found in the form of a trough, ri6ng up in all direSions.

The manner in which they are wrought is by pick and wedge ; boys, and fometimes girls are employed to draw the ikiffies, below ground. The men enter about 4 in the morningy and their day's work is generally over by a in the afternoon.

Each load may be about 24I0 cubic inches. It is fold at 7d4- at the hill. Four of thcfe make a tolerable cart ; it is faid> they will weigh uowards of 1 200 weight. * There are generally from 8 to 12 conftantly employed aa colliers ; each of thefe at an average, will put out 10 or \% loads per day : though fome can put out more. For each load they have 3 pence, fo that in general, they can earn from as. 6d. to 3$. a day. There may be about 120 loads» that is 30 carts put out daily, or about 180 carts every week. Allowing 50 weeks in the year, there will be 9000 carts^ or 36,oooioads, annually put out. This is equal to 10,800,000 hundred weight, or 871,200,000 cubic inches. At half a crown the cart, the fale in a year may be equal to L. 11 25 fterling. But the expenccs attending the work are vcrf confiderable ; fometimes 9 or 10 men are conftantly em- ployed, befides colliers : fo that the weekly expences are ge« nerally from L. 9 to L. 16.

It is to be hoped, that a great deal of this will be faved. For there is a fmall fteam engine immediately to be fet up. This will eaiily do the work of a number of men, and fave an enormous expcnce.

Vol. XVIIL H h If

Q42 StatiJHcal utceount

If fo, it may be expeftcd, that the prices toslj fall fotne- what ; at prefent the poor find them to be very high. And what is furprifingy for loo years, that is, from 1670, till 1770, the coals kept nearly at the fame price, from 3d* to 4d. the load. Since that period, they .have become too much an article of commerce. Speculation has run fo high, that they are now double the price they were 20 years ago. It were to be wiflied, that gentlemen would con* fider this.

It is fuppofed that there are many feams below the one that has been wrought. It feems only the cropt coal. But as it abounds, no attempt has been made to fearch deeper. '

Vegetables.'^'Vht vegetables of this parifli are not very remarkable. Yet our fequeftered glens fumifh abundance of amufement for the botanifi. Thofc who are verfant in that fcience inform me, that there are not a few of the rarer indigenous plants. Broom and furze abound in e* very inclofure. There are a few plants of the black berry tree. The floe tree is in almoft every glen. The haw- thorn, hip thorn, the wild rafp, and elder, with ail the varieties of the bramble, are frequently to be Teen« In every glen and copfe wood, the hazel prevails. There are a few crab apples to be found, fcattered up and down : but chiefly in the neighbourhood of the decayed and ruinous old orchards of the family of Kilfyth. Perhaps they may be the produce of feed dropt from thofe gardens, or carried by wild birds. There is a variety of the willow tribe, though no great quantity any where. The birch is one of our moft beautiful plants. TheTnountain a(h, and fmall cherry tree, either in bloflbm or full bearing, are both a beautiful ornament to our glens. The largeft trees are the afh, the elm, the 2 alder.

alder, the fjcamore, and oak : but they arc very thinly fcat-

tCTCd.

The few fruit trees which we have are fometimes very prolific, but the produce is always precarious. ITicrc is a great variety and very confidcrablc quantities of goofcbcrrics, rafps, and currans* And few, if any country pariihcs can boaft of as many flower gardens^ or a more curious and com« plete c(dIe£%ion of flowers*

Animah — The animals of this pariflj arc fuch as are com* mon over all the neighHourhood.

Foxes, badgers, polecats, weafcis, and hedgehogs, a- bound. A few otters and rabbits may be found alfo ; and the hare is frequently to be feen.

The birds of prey, are in no refpeft fmgularor remarkable* The moft common are the kite, and the hawk, and the raven- crow. The owl is alfo to be found. But the moft deftruc- tjve of all, is the gttj g/aJe, or kite, as it is commonly cal- led. The eagle once frequented our rocks and hills, while paftured with (heep. But fince black cattle have come in their place, the eagle is never feen. Even the foxes and ravens, on the fame account, are not fo numerous as here- tofore. The moor fowl and wild duck, the partridge and wild pidgeon, the heron, the magpie and fkylark, are ail to be found in their feafon. The fnipe, the fpar- row, the redbreaft and wood-pecker, the bat, the com- mon green moor, and red brcaftcd or rofe linnet, the black- bird, the thruQi, the goldfinch, the chaffinch, the wren, &c. with all the varieties of fmall birds, are common here.

In winter, wild geefe in amazing flocks, to the number of aoo or 300 at a time, appear in the valley. The northcock

H h 2 and

^44 Statyiical Acfount

and fnow bird, only appear, in fevere ftormsj like that of winter 1795.

The birds of paflage> with the ufaal time of their appear^ ance and departure, will appear from the following t^ble.

Appearanu. Departure.

Thecuckowi about 25. March ; when barley begins to lboot« The fwallow, 28. April ; i^ 0£iobev.

The lapwing, ao. March ; 26. July.

The curlew, 10. March ; 10. Odober.

Woodcock, 21. December \ various as the dorm rifes;

Churchy Livingy Manfe and Glebe. — It is impoflible to fay, when there was a church firft ereftcd at Monaeburgh. In all likelihoodiitwas very foon after the Reformation; perhaps be- fore it. At all events, it- was before the year 1586. For at that time, Mr Alexander Livingftone, a near relation of the family of Callendar, was parfon of this pariih. The fuccef- fion of minifters, and fcveral particulars relating to the church, are inferted in a note ; which was chiefly taken from an old volume of the records of the prefbytery of Glafgow, which was fometime ago difcovered at Dumblane \ and has very lately been deftroyed by an accidental fire in Glafgow*.

Mr

^ The time of Mr I.ivin^(lone*s admilfion is not recorded ; but In the year X591 be was fo aged and infirm, that he could neither preach, admtnifter the ftcramcntnorezercifc difcipline, {o that the pren>ytery upon a vifitation advifed him to get a helper. It would appear, however, that he was unwilling totak« this advice. For in the year 1594 the Presbytery applied to the Synod for a helper to Mr Livingdone. What was the confequence of this applicatioQ we are not told. But in the year 1597 Mr Liyingflone was depofed for inhahility in hit perfoH ofjpiriiuqlgracet^ U teach the kirk^ and for inhahUiiy t9 ufe difciplint fm ihtfaid kirk at heenneu In this fcntence he feems to have acquiefced, for h^

coofefles

ofKilfyth. 845

Mr James Robe was admitted minifter, a4th April 17x3. He had received a prefentation from the Vifcount pf Kllfyth*

And

OTofeHes the charge. Perhaps he was the more ready to do fo, becaufe th«

Pre/hjrteiy at the (ame meeting took Mr William LiTiogftone his fon on trK

fis for the liring. The reafon a(Ggned for thcii doicg £0^ was> that he per*

cdretl himfelf to be inwardly called to the rotniflry.

Accordingly in the year 1599, having on July 3. received a prefentatioiv.

. from Lord Livingftone, (1 fuppofe the Earl of Callendar), he received in*

ao^ration, on the i7th»impo(Jtion of hands, collation and confirmation. At

this time he was a confiderable heritor in the parifb ; being proprietor of the

lands of Monaebaigh. The boundaries of that eftate are not well known, but

it is certainthat thegroands upon which the village Hands were a part of them.

For Sir William LivingAone of Kilfyth, one of the Lords of Scflion, purchafed

them from the par(bn for thf eaprcfs purpofe of extending the village, which

Aood at that time on the banks of the Ebrocb. Thofe new feus were granted

slong the Garrel Bitrn^ which meets the Ebroch nearly oppofite the centre of

' the village; and of courfe the qew town was cabled Bifrnfide. The parfon

feems tohave been a man qf confiderable influence at that time, and in the year

7604 be uTed all that inf^aence with the grratcd zeal in oppofmg the reAora-

tion of the bifliops. For which caufe, and for his nonfubmiflion to the canons

^nd ceremonies, he was depofed, and by his Majc(ly*s authority, deprived of

Jiisminiflry both at Monaeburgh, and alfo at Lanark.

After this period there Teems to have been a vacancy for feme years. At (aft, in the tyear 2615, Mr Archibald Graham was admitted miniflcr. Soon after his admiflion he difpofed of a part of the glebe, though it appears tba^ he did not pocket the money ; but in all Ukclihood allowed it to go to repair the church. At all events, we find that he expended a confiderable fum in repairing the eafter gabel, building a belfry, and purchaGng a bell. This bell was only taken down this fummer, and had a date upon it correfponding to this,y:z. 1626. All that Mr Graham required in acknowledge; it: en t of this donation; was, that his name might be cut upon the vane of the belfry, and A. G. the initials of his name Hill remain as a memorial of his liberality. M^ Graham (eems to have breathed mpch of the fpirit of his predeceflbr, ^or even in the year 1636 he had not praftifed the canons and conflitutions. And therefore he was called before the hi^^h Commifnon Court to anfwcr .{•r hx5 condu^. That court feems to hare been much incenfed, for thoi^h

246 Statiftical Account

And fo tenacious was his Lordihip of his right, that neither he nor his Lady would allow a call to be moderated in his

favour.

a rery favourable tedimonial was gtvea him by the pariihionen, and even \xf the Prcfbytcry, he was depofed.

The following year Mr Gabriel Cunningham was admitted. He feems to have been kfs fcrupulous. Taking warnin|; from the fate of his two im« mediate predeceflbrs, he conformed to epifcopacy, after the reftoration. At the time of his admiffion the flipend of Monaeburgh was only 5 chalders of ▼i^ual, meal and barley 100 lb. Scots, and 16 (lone weight of cheefe. In the year 1665 the money Aipcnd was, however, augmented to jjomerks. At the fame time the manie was confiderabiy repaired. But principally at the par- ron*s own expencc. This was the more remarkable*^ as he had paid 50* merks for it to his predeceflbr. After tbefe repairs, it was valoed by tiadei^ men as worth I160 merks. His glebe, after the fale his predecellor had made of a part of it, conHfted only of 7 acres or little more. In ail likelihood, the Saerament of the Lord's Supper was not adminifteied in this parifli, tifl about this period. For it is recorded, that in the year 1665, communion table cloths, cups, and tickets, were obtained^ and a bafbn for baptifm, bvt no flaggons, nor even a church bible. The people repeated the creed, (aid the Lord*s prayer, and Aingthe doxology after the pfalms.

About this period, the village was con/iderably increafed. A new towit was built, not along the banks of the Ebroch or Garrel Burn as foimerly, but on a rifing ground about 2C0 yards fouth of thote dreams, which at that time was called Moat Hili, as the Lord of the manor had been accuflomed to hold courts of juflice in that place. This new town of courfe was called by the title of the proprietor, Kilfyth. And from that period the whole vlUage ob- tained that name. Though the parifh for upwards of 40 >ears retained fiiU the old name Monacbrugh. The village about the time that this sew addition was made, or at lead Coon after it, being removed at fome diftance from the fmall rivers, and in all likelihood ill fuppiied with water, that precions article was brought in earthen pipes, from a neighbouring Ipring about a quarter of a mUc from the town ; And a well or ciflern was made near the centre of the new town, which dill bears date 1676* Since that period, other ciftems fap^ plied by the fame fpring, have been cre£led in difTerent parts of the town, e* specially in the year 1 7 16.

It would appear that Mr Cunningham d'ed minider of this parifh. For in the year ^666 Mr Jame^ Qaitihoie wa« admitted ta the charge. 3at he

ai4

of Kiljyth. '^47

favour. The prefbytetf, being aflured that the prefentee was acceptable to the pariflii difpenfcd with that form, and

ordained

Jid not contixrae in t!iat office long. For he was tninflated to Cardrofs in the year 1673.

Two years after this, Mr Walter M^GIU, the laft epifcopal clergyman that oflidated here, was admitted miniAer, being tranflated from Wigton. He was a man of uncommon meekDefs and moderation .; and a great favourite of all ranks and denomination? of people in the parilh ; infomuch, that when it was declared vacant by the Prefbytcry in the year 1690, an uproar enfued. The patron and his lady, and a great and powerful party in the pariih efpoaA cd his caufe ; and when the Prefbytery met at the church, the patron fent down the diamberlain to refufe them admittance, and lock up the doors. The populace even offered violence to the Pre (byte rian clerjry man who was to officiate. The fiiends of the Prefbytery were exafperatcd by this ; and a fcuf- He enfued, in which many were wounded, and one killed. Mr M'Gill^s partizans at lad prevailed. And the Prefl>ytery themfelves feem to have been at a lofs what (leps next to take \ infomuch, that they defined from farther procedure, and' even declared that they could not take any other sieafures. They were foon refcued from this dilemma. For in Feb. 169X Mr 1^'OiU formally gave in hisdeminjon of the charge. When^he Prelbytery met at this time, they called for all the books of difcipline, and regifters of baptifm. The latter were delivered up ; and are on the whole regular and diftin£t from the year 1620 till that period. They are ftiil in good prefervation, as wiU appear from the extra£^s I make from them. When the dcrk was ordered to deliver up the books of difcipline, he fa id, they were in the ha\]ds of Mr M*Gill. When he was interrogated, he raid,he had left them ia the manfe; the beadle who had charge of the manfe, being called, faid,that ibme perfon or other had deilroyed them. So that it would appear all the three were williog to have prevented them from falling into the hands of the Preibytery. All the bills, bonds, and papers refpe^lng the poors funds were neverthetefs recovered, as well as the uteniils and veflels belonging to the. church.

A vacancy enfued for fome time, daring which period the PreHiytcry vifited and ordered repairs upon the church, manfe, and offices, to the amount of !»• ail : 1 : 4 Scots.

On the apth of Dec. x68», Mr James Hay, the firfl pre (byte riaa minifter, was trandated from KilmakiMnb, and admitted to this charge. Dur- ing

94^ Statijiicai Atcount

crdaioed him without a call. The prmcipai occurrences-dufinff

his incumbency, are recorded by himfelf in his own nanative^

and by other contemporary writers ; and it would be both uii-

nidceiTaryi and improper for me to enumerate them- At the

fame time, I cannot altogether pafs in filence, what has been

termed, the extraordinary work at Kiifyth, C^mbuilang, aod

fome other pariflies, in the year 1 742 » efpecially as there were

even th«n fome who called themfelves Chriftians, fo blinded bjr

prejudice, or by party zeal, as to affirm that it was a work of

^c Devil. Had they been fatisfied with reviling the honoure4

iftArivuents of that work, even though they did call fhem limk^

qJ &atan^ Or amhujfadors of bell ^ I fhould have only pitied theoiy

aad been willing to bury their railing in oblivion : But they

\vere fo deiiitute of that charity, *^ which thinkcth do evil,

♦/ which rcjoiceth not in iniquity, but rtjoiccth in the truth j**

a$ to perfift in afc ribing to diabolical influence, the ejfeds pco^

^uccd among the people. I think myfclf.therefore obliged ta

xnake fome remarks on their condud. And.therefbre L cannot

paCs.t|ipir conduft in filcnce. If there are men of the prefcnt

time, who can view the fubjeft in the fame light, I reply to

l)Qtb>..in the fpirit of meeknefs, ^^ that a kingdom divided a*

gainll itfclf cannot (land i" and that if their reprefentatioi;^

h^?c

ing his incumbency the church received conliclerattle repairs. The whole rooC ^as renewed, the north aiile and the vault or burning ground under it, wai Uke<^ wife repaired in the 'year 1697. And the parifli was affefltd in the ittm^ctf la. X266 : 1 3 : 4 Scots for that purpofe. Mr Hay being oonfiderably advanced ia years before he was admitted, Toon became unable to ofGciate, Infomuch^ that on the i(l of July 1 710, he ttftified to the fcfllon his dcfire of having an afutlant. And in the fame day Mr James SteWart was elected by unanimous confent of the miniAer, fcflion, and congregation to be aflxftant, and that as long as he was pleafed to cont r.ue among them. To that capacity he officiated till the death of Mr Hay in July following.

A coaiiderable, vacancy agaio enfucd. So that for nearly three, years tbo Pf cfbytcry regularly fuppllcd the charge oiicc ia the fortnight.

ofKilfytb. • 149

Ittiire been jufUfied by the fa£ls, it is certain that at leaft, in this parifli, '* Satan was divided againft himfelf."

Others, with more candour and charity, have confidered the remarkable circumftances to which I allude, as more the tfkGt of enthufiafm, than of delufion. A great part of the eftahiiflied church, who were not eye witnefles of what really happened, were of this opinion at the time \ and ic is perhapti a common opinion ft ill,

They have endeavoured to account for the unufual agita« tton and religious concern which then appeared among the people, by the influence of natural caufes alone. They have afcribed them to the influence of pafllion, of hope, and fear, and fympathy, and example, or to all thefe caufes united. They have told us, that the inftruments of that work addreflfed the paflions of men, more than their underftandings ; that thofe on whom the chief impreffion was made, were almoft aU affiled in the fame way, and ei^prefled themfelves in fimilat language ; that the agitation of one was communicated to the multitudcj and a^ed like ^ charm on their fympathetie feelings.

This reprefentation is plaufible, but it is only plaufibte. With the candour of a Chriftian, and the aflfe^on of a bro^ ther, I would aflc thofe who have urged it :

I ft. Is it poflfible to preach the gofpel in its native fimplicity and purity, without addreflSng the hopes and the fears o£ mankind ? Where thefe paffions have been addreijTed, has the tBtCt been uniformly the fame, as at Krlfyth in 1742 ? The reverfe.is certainly the truth, though we are all men of like paflions with our fathers. Why are men who are addreflied in the fame manner, fo much more cold, and carelefs, and lukewarm, than the people who were diftinguifhed at that time? And why was it that under the famemintftry and the Jume mean/, the fame efle£is were not produced,^ even in 174^,

V0L.XVIIL 1\ an4

t5^ . Statijkkal Account

und the fi>l}owtng yoais I We can adopt no conclufion ivith candour or conflftencyi but that the remarkable circumftanccs of that timci are not to he afcribed to tbofe vho w«re the iXijIlrttmeQts of psoducing thetan^ or to any peculiarity in the means which, they employt^ \ but to th^ real eflkacy of the :do^ioes of Chrifl, %ni to the power of Gfod which accom- panned iheia-

2dly, Let It be allowed, that all were affeded in thfi bnc way> and that they expcefledthemfebes intlije {aoiCi or in Cmi« laf iRTords ; I^ it be granted th^ aU fighed,. and groaned, and cried ; though Mr Rpbe lA his. narraji;ii^e> bft cd»doji> pa^ I'zSy fays, diat thpfe who difcpi^ered fuch stppearaoces, weie by f^r the feweft. in ni^jnlKri being opt; qbq^ out of Sz, of ^ofe M^ho felt ti>i9 reltgioc^s concern, Bv^| may not an ho- ]iel( mind res^fonably conclude, that t^e £1010 caufe (houU produce fimQar tffeO^ } and that the (vtiilaiiity in diffierent |ierfoi9s> iodicate4 the operations of the fame fpirit in thero aU.

3dly, The powei; of iympathy is undpii|htedly giseat ; Q|]k tfc^n denies it to be fy^ lyho kno^rs s^ny thjng, of the humaa frame. It is not improbable that its influence M^aa confide- i:A)e on the pepple of that time. But he^. ^ whp ha$ the ^-bea^rNt of all n^^ in his hands, :ind who turns them as the rk* ^ Vert of waters >^hitKerfc|eycr he >^iHt!* " who ipakjes tlic very f * ^utt of men. to, praife h^m,^' fnight or did employ, ^e^ this as the means of ** tu^nipg many tq fjghteo^fncfs.*' Btt( 'Virhaietrcr *energy ve ^fcrit^e to the meanf , let us not fbig^ the hand which 4ifefls them to their en^g pT;'^ the ^wec ^^ which wofkech al| in all i** withoujt the agency of God, thf infiuenqe pf ^ moft. powcifut mjs^ns h inf;Se^uaU Neir ther is he that plant(:th any ^hing, nor h^ thstt ws^e|rc;th, bi4 pod who gifreth the inc^e^^fe. i have qo, dpuht thax there ^ere both enthufiaftsaiid hypopri^es diftioguiOied- in 174^ T^ ]^phe 4ckno^led^e8 this in his ns^rrativje, page 27 x. 3u^

t fttn ka^py to Kin it in my powdr to fft^i thkt Hbttt ztt ^* tons yet alive in this place ^ho haVe proved by the uniform ttooir of their li?e8» that they were not of die number^ though their religious impreffions were received at that pdriod* By theif fruits they may dill be known^ and the effe£ls of converfion on men^s pradice li the only true teft and criteri- on by which we ought to judge. Whatever were the means^ whether hope, or fear> or fympathy, or estample, they eipe- rienced at that period a gteac and importdint change, lArhich has formed and decided their cbarafhrs through life* And ** if the fabbathdf the Lord, wh^h was formerly defpifed, was *\ then held honourable } if the ordinances of religion, which *< were formerly negle&ed, were then ftridly obfenred; if tha ** old and the youftg became ferVent and fre^tueot in family *' andprirate prayers i if drutikennefs aiid licentioufnefsWent '' the0 difcountenanced, curfing ^nd ft^earihg difcontinited i *< and if filthinefs and fooltih talking, gave place td the pioui *^ and pure efiuGons of a grateful heart f if^ in a wchrd^ ftrifd ^' and contention^ wrath and malice ceafed, atid loVe^ atid *< peaccj and long fufferihg^ and forbearance, and forgiven ** nefs 9f one another prerailed^ if the thief ftole tio morci^ ^* but made reftitution j and a whole parilU at once, became* << decent and devout, fober and ferious i and that they, did *' fOj^ is attefted by paftdr and people ^^ heritors, elders^, a^4 *' Magtftratesi in 1742, atid by all the wifeind worthy meu^^ of the congregation of Kilfythi who were eye Witnefles to jphc ctcntsof that yeari andareftill alive) call thtsjenthufiafm, oit calt it by any other name, I pray God, tb^ I may ever feel its in« fluencej and bear tefiimony to its power among this peopled

I i ^ t

^ Set Mr IMl^osmtltti p^;

^S% Stat0kaJ Adcount

I praf Godi that it hiay reach every kindreJ^ and peopl6^ apd tongue, and nation I fay^ that it is the influence of fear# or hope, or fyrapathj, or example, its effedls are worthy of the do^rine of falTation^ and indicate the power which ren- ders it effe£lual.

. On the 21 ft March i7S4f Mr John Telfer was ordained fninifter, he died on the 29th of March 1789. And on ibt 3d of September following, the prefent incumbent Was ad-^ i^itted. The crown is patron 1 and what is perhaps teniarifi* able,therehas not beena minifter intioducedintd the partih fines the revolution, who has not had the unatiimoUs conourrencfc of t^e people. The living was augmented about three years- ago# and now confifts of 67 boils 3 firlots of meal, 1 1 bolb 3 fiHa£i of barley, L. 52; i6s. in money and 16 ftone weight of cheefe«

In the year 1 787, the glebe alfo was augmented %io that if now contains in arable andpafture lands by decreet K4ac« 2r. K5 fi bfifides an acre and a half Scots meafure, which has been pof* fciTed by the minifter time immemorial ; and ts allowed td

belong to the church. The glebe is at prefent in '«

variety of lots^ of courfe not inclofed. But an excambioil will foon take place, by which it will be thrown into one kl^ and. all inclofed of courfe. The manfe was built about 8 years ago i it is a good houfe^ well fini(hed| and in ^ood repain

School. — The parifh fchool was diftinguifhed for many years^ and though it has lately been on thcdecline, k is to be hoped, that it will foon be equal to what it has ever been* At leaft the heritors of the parifti have contributed all in their {>ower to make it refpc£lable. They have aflefled themfelves in a handfome fum for building an elegant dwelling-houfe and fchool for the teacher^ it is nearly finiftied,^. And as they

have

litVe elefbed a foung man of a liberal education^ abilities^ and charafbr, it is to be hoped, he will meet with every en^ Couragemem and be eminently ufeful. At prefent he has twa boardets, and Will haVe a<^commodation for a^few more^ His falary is now increased to loo lib. Scots; he receives Ijaarterly for teaching Englifli 28. 2d. for writing and arith- ihetic js. for Latin, Greek, aiid French, 4s« 6d. Befides he is appointed feffion clerk : for which he receives annually ill ilame of fee L. 2 1 10^ fter. for each proclamatioA 2s. for e- tery baptifm 6d. and for a certificate 6d. befides other trifles* The town is populous, the fchool latge, and maiiufa^iures ilna flouriibing Condition, and therefore it is probable that bd flodi meet with fuitable encouragement. At the fame time, it i^ much to be regretted, that men of a liberal education, who devote theif time and talents to the inftru£tion of the rifing getieration, ihould be fd much negie£led and meet with fuch itiadequate falaries.

' A cofDmon tradefman, if fober and attentive, is much more ilidependtnt,^at)d may in getiefal eatn a better livelihood than the moft part of pariih fchoolmafters. While this'coniinues CO be the cafe, itW men of abilities or chara£fcer will afpiroto die lyffice, or rathet doom themfelves to the drudgery fo .-which it requires them t6 fubmit, with the ailiirance of' pover- ty attached. If they are driven to tiie office by necef&ty, they muft foon dwindle into ihfignificance, and by becoming defpicable in the eyes of the ignorant and worthlefs becaufe poor, maft lofe their influence and their lifefulnefs of confe-> qnence. But it is to be hoped, that the wifdom of the legifla* ture will fee the impending evil, and fpeedily interpofe their authority to ward it off. If the falai7 of each parochial teacher were doubled, it would be only a ttifle to the landed intereft, and a mutual benefit to the teacher and the taught. Or, ii^ this ihould not be though advifcable, might not every eftablifhed

fchoolmafter

2S4 StatiJUcal Account

fchcolmafter be appointed poftmafter if he refidee tn t pod town, or land furvcyor for the parifli in Which he officiatca $ neither of thefe employments would etigrofs too much of his at* tention. And either of them might be a handfome addition to his income. BeCdei the parochial fchool which b very pro^ijf placed in the centre of the village, there are two, fometimeg three private fchools in it, befides one in the centre of the eaft, and one in that of the weft barony*

The latter of thefe at Chapelgreen was ere£led in the year 1723, in confequence of a donation of L. 60 fter. from Mf*. John Patrick merchant in London, and a native of this pariflK That fum according to the terms of the donation, iRras devo« ted to the purpofe of building th^ fchool and endowing thd teacher with a yearly falary not exceeding L. j fter* iii ordcf that he might be enabled to teach the poor fchoiars gratisi The fellion are nominated truftees of the fund under the vor fpe£tion of the prefbytery i and they are likewife patrons o^ the fchool.

The fchool in the eaft barony is at Banton ; it is generally: well .attended, though the encouragement to the teacher isl not very great. He has a dwelling houfe ; and William Cadell, £fq. proprietot of the eftate of Banton, has very liberally contributed to the fupport of the teacher from ycaf to year. There may be at an average 260 fchoiars taught annually within the bounds of the parifti.

P^^.-^The poor belonging to this pariih, afe not numd* rous ; excepting in years of great fcarcity, or Want of end* ploymcnt. They are of courfe, liberally fupplied.

The funds are ralfed chiefly from the weekly coUeAloos^ though in part from occafional donations. There is befidec .this, a fum collcfted annually for the ufe of the mortcloths. As our burying ground is in much rw-queft by ftrangers^

at

•\'

ofKitfyth. ^ 255

iw well as the inhabkants of the parilh ; that fum becomes obctk a coniiderable and rery feafonabie fupp^y.

By ^&. of parUament, 15979 thofe funds are cntrufted to the Kirk Seflion ; and they never can be comimtted to better bands. Though the management is entirely a labour of loye^ and a great hbour too^ often attended with much obloquy^ and feldom or never rowaided even by the grateful acknow- ledgement of the heritors; yet, aS' it involves the intereft of the poor, it is regarded by every elder as a facred depofit* Wfth diHgefice and difcretion they confider the cafe of the lieedyJ By afibciatiog with every ckfs <^ people, |hey be» come acquainted with the real* wants and difpofttions of the widow, the orphan, and the fatherlefs, the feeble, the aged and infirm, and fpeedily adminifter relief. Upwards of L. ioo,coo fter. at lead, isentrufted to the eldersof the church of Scotland ; and by them diftributed with a degree of fide-* lity and public Ipirit, which rcflefts the higheft honour upoa Aeir office. 7et though the hnded intereft are relieved of a burden, w^ich they themfelyes could not fubmit to, and from a duty which men of high rank could fcarcely difeharge^ it is feldom that they will allow a Seffion houfe, or even a ihade for colle£ling for the poor ; or if it be granted, it ia oftea with relu£tancet And yet I fuppofir, that the greateft part of them would fdon^r txtO. fuch a (hade at his own ex- pence, than fubmit to the danger and drudgery of ftianding a whole hour, eren one funday of the- year, in a cold bleak y^intier day in the open air, to colled); the mite which every worihipper offers.

That the funds of this parilh have been collcftcd with fuch trouble, managed with fuch fidelity, and diftributedr ynxh fuch difcretion, as t have now hinted, will appear from fhc follomng particulars.

At

a^6 Stati/lical Account

At the Revolution, the wholp funds' delivered Ofer to die Seflion, amounted only to L. 19:10^ fterling. Tlie weekly coileAion at that tiipe never exceeded is and Sd; yet there is now in land and heritable bonds and cafli, a fund near L. 300 fterling, for the fupport of the poor; and that too raifed, not by a parfimpnious hoarding up of the poor^s funds^ not by withhold iiig nvhtH 'was tneei^ or granting the needy only a penurious pittance^ but by ^ prudent faithful difcharge of their duty, in colleding and diilributing. That the Sef- fion of Kilfyth, was not in ufe to deny the relief which waa neceflary; and that thefe funds have been managed with iuch prudence an4 carcj will appeaf from the following fable,

Tears,

Receivings.

£. s, d.

jPj^/einetitu

1720 1721

.

8 ?8

16 8

8 4

m

10 as

6 4 6 8

1740

-

24

0

0

T

?P

12 8

»747

-

3^

0

0

T

31

P Q

'749

-

43

8

a

•■

37

0 0

1750

r

36

0

0

▼

29

10 Q

\iH

-

4a

10

Q

- •

41

P 9

1770

m

57

0

0

T

37

10 0

1772

-

22

10

0

T

KS

3 0

1782

r

^3

0.

0

-

60

0 0

1784

-

5^

Q

0

w

5S

0 0

fox the Uft ten years, the average of rece^vingSji is anoor • ^lly L. 70, difSurfcments, L, 65.

The table is only given as a fpecimen. In all of thofe

years, the trcafurer gave in a di(lin£t account, for the preciQs

t^rm of a yean Add therefore his receivings and diC^

3 ^urfemeats^

ofKilfyth: «57

CXfHefldViits are clearly ftated for that precife term. In the Interveening periods^ the account was fometimcs taken in 6% 9, or 15 months, To that the annual rate cannot be fo very accurately afcertained* But the fame proportion between the receipt and difburfements holds, and therefore ic is unne« cefi^ry to be more particular. But in a pari(h like this^ where XKioft of the heritors do not rcGde, and fome have feceded from the church, and where none of them interfere with the poor's^ funds, the above fa£ls ought to be made known to all^ £fpecially when it is confidered,. that the above fums have been coIle£ted literally from the poor, or from the lower or- «{ers of the people, that is, from farmers and tradefmen, and the few refiding heritors who attend divine fervice in the efta* bliflied church. Of courfe, the weekly colle£lion has been ne« ceflariiy (mall, though great in proportion to the circum- ftances of the inhabitants : And had it not been for the fe- ccffioitj it might have been one fifth more ; for in the year 1736, and after that period, when the feceffion had firfl: commenced, there is a great defalcation ; and there was ai greater ftill, about the year 1770, when the fociety of relief "was eftabliihed in this place. For it cannot be concealed^ though i( is with fincere regret I mention it, that when the people of that communion withdrew thcmfelvcs from the ef- tabliihed church, they feefn to have fliutrup their bowels of com- paffion from their poor brethren j at leaft they have witheld their hand from relieving them. But it is to be hoped, at lead it is devoutly to be wiflied, that they may fpcedily fee it to be their duty to affift, if not altogether to fupply the poor of their own perfuaGon, and not caft them off when hclplefsi They vrill certainly lofc nothing by doing fo, either in^their charaftcr as men, or as chriftians. On the contrary, they will have the approbation of the pious and the pure of every perfuaGon, and the bleffing of the poor who are attached to their communion. Vol. XVIIL K k Ta

258 Statijlical uiccount

To the honour of all denominations of chriftialis in this pariflii they are always ready to contribute in TLfrhati capa- city, when the circumftances of the poor require them to do fo« During the inclement winter i795» when every labourer was entirely idte> and almoft every clafs of tradefmen^ a fubfcrip- tion was opened for the feeble, the aged, and the infirm, and for the honeft and induftrious, who could not find employ- ment, but were unwilling to come upon the parifb* In the courfe of a few days, upwards of L. 1 1 were colle£led from the common orders of the inhabitants of every different com- munion ; and by the concurrence of the heritors, it was rsiifed at laft above L. 30. Th^ non-refiding heritors not only concurred in this defign, but have agreed to give a handfome fum yearly, for the fupport of the poor; an example truly laudable and worthy of imitation.

The ordinary poor which are not very numerous, are chiefly fupported by the weekly coUcAions at the church. But there are feldom above 10, and never above 15 upon the weekly Kit ; thefe receive from 28. 6d. to 4s. 6d« monthly, each according to their feveral neceflities. But by far the greateft fum goes to the fupply of the occafional poor. And that none may be overlooked, the feflion meets weekly all the year round 9 and in winter they meet always twice^. (bmetimes thrice, for the purpofe of giving more liberal fupplies than can be afforded weekly. At Martinmafs, New- years- day, and Candlemafs, they diftribute from L. 3 to L. 4 fter. either in money or in coals, or cloaths, to all without diftin£tion who ftand in need of them. Some- times this occafional fupply amounts to L* 20 fter. in the winter ; befides what is expended in the education of fome orphans and many poor children.

Yet our funds have hitherto been fufflcicnt ; fo that there has not been an affeffment in this parifh for a century paft,

excepting

of Kilfytb. 259

excepting ia the year 1740, as that was a year not only of want approaching to a famine, but of great ficknefs and dif-* trefs, the feffion very judicioufly took advantage of the z€t of parliament 1672. In the terms of that a£l, they called a meeting of the heritors, gave up a lift of all the poor within the parifli, and a ftate of the funds for their fupply : calling upon them to aflcfs themfelvcs to make up the deficiency. Yet after all, the fum exafled was only L. 5 on each 100 lib* Scots valuation, which was certainly very trifling : and little felt either by heritor or tenant, as it was equally paid by both.

The above, howeveri is only an account of our parochial fund. Bcfides thefe, the weavers and mafons have each a friendly fociety, and a common fund for the fupport of their brethren. Thcfc focicties have given confiderable relief to fnulcitudes; infomuch, that without them or fomething fimi- lar to them, this pariih muft have been affcfTcd long before this time to a confiderable amount *•

K k 2 Pcpulation.

* The fociety of weavers was inftituted in the year 1760. At that time the manofodhiriiig bulinefs was oaly in its infancy. And of coarfe, the qperative 'weavers were not nQmerous ; yet their oumbers every year increafcd, and moltitiides joined the fodety, who knew nothing of the craft ; £o that there -are now upwards of 350 belonging to it. Each me«iber either pays 7s. 6d. up* cm admiflion, and one (hilling yearly ; or one pound two (hillings (ler. at once, and he is for ever exempted from any future contribution, except a voluntary <me,and entitled to all the privileges of the fociety. Thefc privileges arc con- fiderable : if confined to bed by (icknefs, every member receives 3s. weekly ; if only unable to work, though walking about, he receives is. bcfides. At his death, there arc L. a (leiling allowed his widow or family, or friends, for fu- neral expences. Thefe and all their other regulatious, fecm to be wifely and well calculated to promote the common intereft of the fociety : efpcciaily as every member has an honed pride in fupporting himfelf and hi& family, and a great averfion to come upon the funds, unlcfs when neceiCty ucges him. The funds though fixiall at firil, have by proper

7i6o Stati^ical Account

Ptpulatm* — The populatioo of thi9 parifh may be very accur lately ftatcd. For in the year 1 790^ an exa£l lift was taken of erery indhridual in it : at that time it contained precifely 2450 fouls, but the three foUowipg tables will give the moft con- cife view of this (ubje^t.

? The

and prudent maaagement, iQcreafed tQ what U to them a coafidecable faiiu In houfes, bills, ai^d boads, their property may amount to upwards of JL. 300 llerling.

They meet annually upon the ifl Friday of Auguft to chufe their deacon, and other office bearers, who meet regularly every quarter, or as often as occafion requires, to receive petitions, fupply the poor brethren, and fettle the private alTairs of the lociety.

The mafon lodge was' inftituted about the fame time : they bold pf the. grandiodge of Edinburgh ; every member at entry, pays ys. 6d. if the fon of a member, if a (iranger los. 6d. and all pay 4d. quarterly thereafter. Their number is like wife on the increafe, and may amount to about 120, their funds will of courfebe enlarged ; at prefentthey exceed L. 100 (ler. in houfcs, bills, and bonds. They have a very convenient lodge well fitted up ; they arc able in (bme meaAire to contribute to the fupport of their poor brethren : if una- ble to work, they allow each member as. 6d. ; if confined to bed, he receives 3s. weekly. And a guinea is likewife allowed for funeral charges ; Co that when a poor man is connected with the (bciety both of mafons and weavers, which is often the cafe, he has a very liberal allowance.

The miners of this parifh propofe likewife to cftabli(h a friendly focicty ; but it have not yet taken place, though I hope it will very ibon.

Of all charitable inflitutions, thofe friendly focieties fecm to be the bcft : for they are not only happily calculated to relieve the poor, but to maintain that honeft fpirit of independence, which is the fure mark of an honeft and inge- nuous mind. They therefore deferve encouragement from all ranks and deno* minations ; but efpecially from the landed intered, who have it in their power to be liberal. It would be for the intereft of every heritor to encourage them; perhaps it is not unworthy of the legiflature itfelf to interpofe in their behalf. Their funds might be exempted from all duty on bills and receipts : or iu cafes when they come in competition with other creditors, they might be allowed a preferable claim to all ; except the crown and the land- lard. "

Bat

The firft exhibits atone glance) a diilinA view of the num^ ber of houfes, familiesy heads of fanulies, widows, widower^ diildren, farmers, and male and female fervants, in each di£- txiSt feparately. For I think it more confident with the ob* jtSt of a ftatiftical account, to give a detail of the proportioo of inhabitants in each diftridi apart ; than merely to (late the number of the whole pariih. By this means it will be aa eafy matter to fay in any future period^ whither the town or country part of the parifli is increafing or decreafing : and ' in what proportion and denomination of inhabitants.

The fecond table exhibits a didinA view of the number of children in each family of every di(lri£l } that are at the time alive.

The third reprefents th^ number of each denomination^ and of every clafs of inhabitants.

TABLE

But a part, if not a priocipal part of thefe funds ought to be eftabli(hed by law, as a fupport for the widows and children of the rcfpc^vc members of each focxety. Or, if the funds ah-eady colledtcd are found infufficient for that purpose, why, might not each member become bound to pay a fmall additional fum for the purpofe of cftablifhing a widows fund ? A trifling ism annually from each would fenrc the purpofe. But perhaps the wifed meafure that could be adopted would be to unite the friendly focieties into larger bodies, and the tradefinen of the fa^me craft throughout the kingdom into one ibciety. The common (lock, if allowed to accumulate for a few years, would fooo be fufficient to anfwer all the purpofes of their widows and their poor, and more tSeCivizWy tlian the fund$ of f^all and feparat^ fode* tics.

cl6%

StatiJUcal Account

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Quarter.

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f W

TABLE

0/ KiJfylh

463

TABLE ni.

Weavers

.

400

Clock-inaker

X

Tambourcrs

-

a 80

Penfioners-chelfca

4

Taylors

-

'5

Publicans

12

Mafons

-

lO

Labourers

04

Wrights

-

12

Grocers

23

Coopers

-

2

Coalliers

6

Carters

-

5

Miners - •

^ 40

Flax-dreflers

-

4

Excife-officer

X

Gardners

-

3

Sheriff-officers

3

Nailers

•

2

Stocking makers

7

Smiths

•

10

Bakers

2

Wheel- Wrights

.

3

Surgeons - •

2

Batchers

-

S

Seamftrcffcs

4

Shoemakers

-

12

Drummer

I

MUlcrs

-

5

Stampraafter

X

Toll-keeper

m

I

Carriers

2

Sickle-makers

•

6

Teachers

5

Students

•

6

BeGdes the diAin£tion of employ ment| they maybe diC- tinguilhed likewife by their religious profeflions, thus :

Mniftcr of the EftabliOi-

Adherents to the Relief

207

ment - - i

TotheScccffion

270

Do. belonging to the Society

Cameronians

9

of Relief - i

Glaflites - :

X

Tie remainder adhere to the EJlabliJljed churchy viz. 2000,

There may be about an hundred families or houfcholders, that have no children. And upon the whoIe> there are not f uite 3 children alive to each family.

In

264 Staii/licat Account

Tn moft places^ there are more children to a family in ike country than in the towns. But upon an examination of the 2d table, it will appear that the reverfe is the fa£l with us : this isundoubtedly rather Cngular, but it may perhaps be eafily ac- counted for. The manufa£luring clafs of people, generally marry younger than farmers and labourers ; becaufe they are much fooner upon an independent footing. A weaver, the moment his apprenticefhip is over, can earn a decent Ixveli- hood, and after fefving as a journeyman for a fliort time, ge- nerally marries or begins houfc-kceping. Whereas a fervanty or even the fon of a refpe£lable farmer, unlefs he turns ta fome other profei&oni is not fo foon independent : the fon, if his father is alive, is dependent on him, and in fome mea« fure his fervant \ and the fervant as he changes his mailer and his rcfidence often, cannot fo conveniently marry. A% this is the cafe, and as the farmers and labourers are the moft numerous clafs in the country, as the manufaflurers are in the town, it is natural to fuppofe, that the latter fliould marry fooner, and of courfe^ fliould fooner become the fathers of families.

I fliall not prcfume to fay pofitively, whither the population of this parifh has been on the increafe or decreafe : it feems to have been always on the increafe. If Dr Webfter's account be accurate, the increafe is very confiderable indeed, Cnce the period in which he enumerated them. At that time^ there were only according to his account 1346; fo that in the courfeof 40 years, there are no lefs than 1104 fouls added to this pariih.

The chief caufes of this increafe are doubtlefs the follow- ing : I ft, That manufaftures have been, efpecially fince tliat period, in a flourifhing condition : ad, That of courfe, many from the remote highland s> and fome from almoft every quar«

ter^

of Kilfytb. 26s

tcr, have rcfortcd to this diftrift : 3d, That the greateft part of the farmers younger fons kave become tradefmen or manufaflurers : of courfe, they do not leave the parifh, but refort to the tillage ; and^ by marrying, foon add to the number of fouls* It corroborates this opinion much, that there are upwards of 900 fouls in the old, and 30b in the new town : whereas the country part of the parifh is not much more populous than it was laft century : fo that all the increafe of population is in the town. Indeed it is cer« tain, that it contains 300 fouls more than it did even 10 years ago ; that Is, before the new town was begun. And as the Ctuation is highly advantageous«-and the encouragement to new fettlers liberal, it muft in all likelihood continue to in- creafe. Efpeclally, ifa cotton miln, a bleachfield, printfield, or any public work be eftabli{hed among us ; in that cafe, the iocreafe muft be rapid, and the population doubled in a very fliort time.

But in a ftatiftical account, as little as poilible fliould be left to conjefhire. Therefore, without entering upon uncertain ground, I ihall give as full a table of births, or rather baptifms, as I can. And fortunately I have been enabled to colle£l the materials for upwards of a century.

Vol. XVIIL L I Years.

i66

Stati/iical Account

1

-*Z

*t\

"TJO

><

q

s

a 3

"1 0

^

W

a»

•

•

ST

?r

en

r

1

•

•

1688

2

14

s

3

24

19

1689

4

S

21

I

14

9

1699

0

5

3

0

8

8

I69I

9

6

9

0

24

•5

1692

9

9

If

0

29

20

1693

«3

26

28

2

69

54

1694

'5

34

20

3

72

54

1695

24

3'

II

3

69

4a

1696

•9

20

29

I

69

49

1697

'7

24

17A

^3

I I

65

47

Averap;e

"^

'4 A

A^^■o

1698

H

24

18

57

42

1699

19

22

22

4

67

44

1700

12

20

12

1

45

32

1701

23

30

20

I

74

50

, 1702

t2

29

18

0

S9

47

'703

14

25

27

I

67

5^

1704

«5

*?

22

2

66

49

1705

14

16

21

I

52 .

37

1706

10

29

35

I

75

64

1707

»3

3»

21

3

69

53

Average

'4tV

2^^

2^/^

ItV

47

1708

'4

a?

18

I

60

45

1709

20

34

25

4

«3

59

1710

'3

25

27

5

70

52

1711

'S

>7

22

I

55

39

171a "

14

22

»9

0

55

41

1713

'3

30

25

0

68

55

nT4

U

23

25

I

60

48

1715

12

24

31

3

70

55

1716

9-

33

25

3

70

58

1717

16

26

22

4

68

48

1718

16

3;

32

4

2A

87

67 5'tI

Ayerage

14

27rV

24 A

Years.

ofKilJytb,

167

\

s

2:

3.

1

r

^ 7

w SI- S'

?

?

CO

•

•

8' 3

r-

•

1719

23

25

29

80

54

1720

8

is

3»

3

73

62

1721

»7

23

4

79

58

1722

16

3«

28

l«

9'

l^

1723

19

3S

26

17

97

6t

1724

23

33

23

»7

95

58

1725

10

36

33

22

101 ^

69

1726

26

28

32

14

lOA

60

1727

as

33

3<S

8

t02

69

•728

»3

26

29

0 3

68

55

Avfrape

18

3'rV

29

30^

»

_6o£, 62

1729

10

32

, 75

'73<»

»7

22

18

2

1 S9

40

«73«

26

,26

3>

4

«7

57

17^2

la

31

36

I

80

67

'733

20

30

21

I

72

5'

•734

18

37

32

8

95

69

'735

'3

28

21

S

67

49

1736

>7

23

3S

2

77

58

>737

II

37

33

2

»3

70

1738

6

28

22

3

3^ 3

59 .

50

Average

15

29A

27t%

57tV

•739

<i

34

30

7»

64

1740

10

26

26

• 2

54

52

1741

6

22

20

3

S«

42

1742

12

28

20

2

62

48

>743

>7

32

25

I

75

57

1744

14

27

23

3

67

50

»745

II

35

27

2

75

62

1746

8

27

25

I

61

52

»747

«3

22

42

3

80

64

1748

17

28-

24

3

72

52

Average

"t»t

28;,

a^T,

54i'rr'

Ycarsu

256

Statyiical Account

s

»5j

^?

><

3.

s

3

ft) '^

3;®

t^

gJ

3

Vt

CD

^1

P*

i68S

2

14

5

3

24

>9

1689

4

s

A

1

14

9

1690

0

s

3

0

8

8

1691

9

6

9

0

24

>5

1692

9

9

11

0

29

20

1693

>3

26

28

2

69

54

1694

'5

34

20

3

72

54

1695

24

3'

II

3

69

4*

1696

•9

20

29

I

69

49

1697

»7

24

^3

I

65

47

Average

«'rV

i7tb

Mt%

I

4o,V

1698

'4

24

18

57

42

1699

'9

22

22

4

67

44

1700

12

20

12

I

45

32

1701

23

30

20

I

74

50

, 1702

12

29

18

0

59

47

'703

14

25

27

t

67

5a

1704

«5

27

22

2

66

49

1705

14

16

21

1

5*

37

1706

10

29

35

I

75

64

1707

•3

32

21

3

69

53

Average

'4T>r

2;^

't',.

_47__

1708

14

27

18

1

60

45

1709

20

34

25

4

«3

59

1710

'3

25

27

5

70

52

1711

'S

>7

22

I

55

39

171a '

»4

22

»9

' 0

55

4t

1713

13

30

25

0

68

55

1714

U

23

25

I

60

48

1715

12

24

3»

3

70

55

1716

9-

33

25

3

70

58

1717

16

16

22

4

68

48

1718

16

35

32

4

87

67

Average

M

27tV

24 tV

2A-

5'tJ

Years.

ofKUJytb,

t5f

s

' s;

►tj

►up.

Hj

g

3

1

CO

•

•

3

» •

•

I7I9

a3

25

29

80

54

1720

8

5'

3«

3

73

62

1721

»7

Js

23

4

79

58

172a

16

3«

28

16

9'

59

1723

19

35

26

»7

97

61

1724

23

33

23

>7

95

58

n^5

10

36

33

22

toi '

69

1726

26

28

32

14

100

60

1727

25

33

36

8

102

69

.728

»3

26

29

0 3

68

55

Arerage

18

3'rV

29

30^

^

6o,V 62

1729

10

' 32

75

'73<»

»7

22

18

■ 2

59

40

«73<

26

.26

3«

4

«7

57

n-ii

la

3»

36

1

80

67

•733

20

30

21

I

72

5»

•734

18

37

32

8

95

69

'735

'3

28

21

5

67

49

1736

«7

23

35

2

77

58

'737

II

37

33

2

«3

70

1738

6

28

22

3

59 .

50

Average

>5

29A

27t%

3^ 3

57-.V

•739

II

34

30

78

64

1740

10

26

26

2

54

52

1741

6

22

2Q

3

5»

42

1742

12

28

20

2

62

48

>743

>7

32

*5 1

I

75

57

1744

M

27

23

3

67

5°

•745

IX

35

27

2

75

62

1746

8

27

25

I

61

52

»747

»3

22

42

3

80

64

1748

17

28>

24

3

2t',

72

52

Average

H^5

28;,

a<5-n7

C'JiV

Ycar«-

270

Statijlical Account

The average was nearly from 28 to 26 during the above period ; fo that the number of males bom has always been greater than the number of females*

At an average of 160 years, there are twins twice every three years : At prefcnt, there have been twins in four different families, within the courfe of a few months.

N. 3. The following Table (hows the number of childrca born in every month.

In the year 1754.

In the year 4774.

s;

t

Si 1 . ..

»>

^

S

"ti

1

•^

ri

"^

(I

1

»H^

2

3 H

•1^

S 3

H

w

—

£L ^

1'

2L

^ S

•^

<r

I rT »

n

n

a o)

CO

•

CO

1 ?* -

CO 1 GO

y ! r-,

January,

1

2

1 * 4

1

1

3 1 5

February,

I

2

^ 1 5

2

3

• 2 J 7

M.rch,

I

3

• Is

0

4

2 6

April,

I

1

6 1 9

1

f

" 3

May,

0

3

2

5

I

6

4 10

Jane,

0

6

2

8

2

3

2

7

July,

0

3

3

5

^

0

I

4

s

Augufl:,

0

3

3

6

3

0

4

7

September,

I

2

1

4

I

4

1.

6

Oaober,

I

3

4

8

0

5

I

6

November,

I.

I

2

4

0

2

3

c

December,

2

2

2

6

2

2

I

Intl

le jt

lar 1764.

In

the year 1 78

4-

Jahuary,

2

2

4

8

I

1

G

2

February,

0

2

I

3

0

0

3

3

March,

I

S

5

11

0

2

3

5

April,

1

2

' 4 1

0

4

3

7

May,

I

1

3

5

0

4

4

8

June,

0

2

3

5

1

1

1

3

July,

0

1

2

3

I

2

2

S

Auguft,

0

1

»

2

0

2

^

2

September,

1

4

4

9

0

I

0

I

oaober,

I

3

4

8

0

1

I

a

November,

5

0

3

8

0

3

I

4

December,

1

2^

5 '3

0

7

3

<o

of Kilfytk ^71

I have been mofe particular in the above extrafi, be- caufe I think it one of the mod important articles in a ftatif- tical account ; and becaufe the regifters of this parifli t^ave been kept with uncommon care.

Therefore^ as it may be depended upon as corred, it ma^ ferve many ufeful purpofes in time to come : and at prefent may furniih a very plaufible if not a certain ftatement of the proportional increafe or decreafe of the population of this parifli during all the above periods.

A few remarks upon this fubjt;£l, may tend to fet it in a clearer light. It is generally fuppofed, that if we multiply the annual births in a parifh by a6, the produ£l will give the number of inhabitants. But in this pariih at leaft» this will not hold at prefent : and 1 think, I can aflign very fufiicient reafons for this.

ifti The ft ill born children, and thofe who die before bap- tifm are not rcgiftratcd.

adly. Since the fecefBon at firil took place, a number, if not the greater part of feceders, negleft to regiftrate their children^

3dly, Since the duty was impoftd upon baptifms, a ftiil greaternumberhave neglected to do fo,inorderto evade the tax. ^ 4th]y, In a manufa£luring village like this, ' there are a great many ftrangers who come to refide : and in proportion to the encouragement they meet with, the number muft increafe. For thefe or other reafons, we muft multiply the number of baptifms at prefent by 38, to give the number of inhabitants : and the rcafon is, 'that upon an average, there arc at leaft 8, if not 10 children born annually, who for one or other of the above reafons, are not regiftrated.

Yet, if we multiply the births for every period by 38, I fear this rule may be fallacious. For before the feceffion took place, and manufaflures were introduced into this parifli, or a duty impofed on the parifli reg;fter, the record was unqueftion- ably more complete.

2 I

2Jt Stati/iical Account

I fliall therefore endeavour to make an allowance for this In the following calculation.

For the firft i o years after the Revolution) the average of births annually, was about 40.

Multiply this N®, 40 by 30 the N°. of inhabts. 1200

For the fecond 10 years 47 by 30 - - - 1410 For the third 5 1 by 30 - - « S30

For the fourth 60 by 30 - 1800

For the fifth Icfs * 57 by 3 J *• - 199J

For the fixth lefs 54 by 35 - 1890

For the feventh 5^ '>y 35 - *J)^o

For the eighth 55 by 35 - - 1925

For the ninth f 67 by 36 * 2412

For the tenth 59 by $8 2241

For the laft 6 years 64 by 38 - - 2432

Here it will appear^ that I have made an allowance for ftill born and unbaptifed infants» even at the earlieft period. In place of 26, I have taken 30, allowing 4 annually. After the feceilioni I have allowed 5 more annuallyi which I think may be a reafonable aUewance for thofe of that perfuafion, who ncglcftcd to rcgiftrate their children. After the relief fo* ciety was eftabliflied here, a few more would negled to do fo : efpecially confidering the duty on baptifms \ therefore^ I have from that period allowed 3 more.

After much minute inveftigation, I fappofe the above may give a pretty accurate idea of the progrciBve increafe of population.

Mr Robe mentions in his narrative, that there were in the year 1742, 200 communicants in this pariih. At pre- fent there are no lefs than 515 in full communion with the church.

Table

• After the feccffion.

t After the relief fociety was eftablilhed here*

ofKilfyth,

a73

T A B L E I.

Showing the number of deaths in everj monthi for ten years.

1785 17W

1787 1788

1789

X 790x791

X79a

1

1793x794 Total, j

Janomry*

»i '

4 5

3 4 *7

IX

7 64

February,

3 ; »

3 4

a . 7 . 15

6

4 . 53

March,

4 ' 5

11 IX

X 1 X

\%

8

6x

April.

8

6

8

3

i i 4

8

6

56

May,

%

6

10

7

6 3

4

4

48

June,

6

7

6

4

%

3

X

4

4a

July.

X

6

1

ft

6

»

3

X

h%

Auguft,

%

3

3

X

»

a

%

a

ao

September,

I

3

a

3

6

7

%

X

»9

Oaobcr,

3

4

I

2

4

9

%

5

36

NoTember,

6

XI

5

%

3

5

0

a

47

December,

4

%

7

4

5

xa

3

a«

0

41

Total.

|4X

56 63

48

34

45 1 59 1 79 1 5»

S%

TABLE II.

Showing the number of adults, male or female^ old or young, in the above period.

I785|X786

1787

1788

1789

X790

1791179a

1793;

i794Totol.

old men.

5

xa

6

10

4

10

8

5

8

75*

Oki>fvomeD,

5

5

13

10

8

8

10

'3

9

87*

Young men.

S

3

4

a

3

4

2

9

4

38 1

Y women.

7

7

4

4

a

a

6

7

6

50 1

Children.

10

18

30

16

4

ai

18

53

JO

10

190 ♦

Vol. XVIII.

Mm

The

• From 60 to 90. f From 1 5 to 30. \ Fiom I to lo.

C74 Statijiical Account

The following may fcrvc as a bill of mortality for the aboTC period^ as the difeafcs are difltin£lly marked out.

T

A

B

L

E

III

[.

Small pox, Innoculatc do. Old age,

1785 9

7

[786 •9

16 3

I

6

45 XI

1787

'5

% 16

6

I

%

5

>P

57

1788

8

to

4

1

2 X

%

2

8

38

10

'789

14

3

t

Z

3

1

1790

1

9

1

4 II

%

%

Z

'79»i 6

t%

5 % % 3

179a

30

1

ao

a 3

a 5

»793

«5 1

»

1

la

I %

I

I 1

43 9

'794j

3

9 6

X

Meaflcs,

4

Confumption,

Cancer,

Bowels,

5

Croup,

I

I 3

X

3

39 14

Flux,

Z\ 5 % 1 3

Fever,

Throat,

I

I

Accident,

Child-bed,

1

9 II

1

Teething,

%

1

a

%

43

1"

4

76 6

Water in thc"> head, J

EpUepfy,

In drink)

Hooping cough.

Suddenly,

Jaundice,

Bleeding at " the nofc, j'

Unknown,

7 J

Total.

33 4

36 9

From other "^ parifties. J

of Kilfyih. 175

The following remarks will in fome meafure explain the a* bove tables, and they are neceflarj to prevent miftakes*

Although the iirft table is an accurate ftatement of the numbers enrolled in the mortcloth keeper's books, yet there are a few annually die> who are not enrolled. All who are flill bom, and even a few infants have not the ufe of the mortcloth ; but to counterbalance this on the other hand, fuch children as are fiill born or not baptifed, are not included in the foregoing regifter of baptifms.

From the firft of thefe tables, fuppofing them to be accu- rate, it will appear, that on an average of 10 years, about 5 1 die annually : and that January, February, March, April, and May, are the mod fatal months ; next to them is June, November, and December ; and on the other hand, July, Au^uft, and September, are in general the moil healthy months*

From the fecond table, it will appear, that in the fame pe- rlody two thirds of the mortality bill confifts of children : and two thirds of the remainder of old men and women : and that there is a very fmall proportion of young men and young women that die, that is between the age of i; and 30.

From the third table, it will appear, that the fmall pox are by much the moll fatal of all the difeafes to which we are lia- ble. "When this difeafe prevails, the mortality bill rifcs for tliat year, and via verfa*

Heritors^ £SV. — The heritors of this parifh are not very numerous, and few of tliem have property in it to a great ex- tent. Sir Archibald Edmonftone, of Duntreath, Bart, is pro- prietor of five fixths of the parifh, and fuperior of the wh6le, except a valuation pf L# 80 Scots. He is alfo titular of the tiends,

M m a The

176 Statiftical Accolint

The following ltd of the heritors and their refpedhre valaa- tions» as it is extra£led from the cefs books, will give a prettjr accurate idea of the proportion of landed property, which be- longs tp each. Though I (hall not prefume to point out their refpedive rentals, as that would be extremely indelicate and improper. I (hall only give the fuppofed rental in ' cumula.

Heritors Names.

Valuation,

L. s.

d.

Sir Archibald Edmonftone - .

3108 10

0

William Cadel/, Efq. Banton

a8i IS

10

Carron Company

120 15

10

His Grace the Duke of Montrofc

80 10

7

The Town of Kilfyth feuers

75 0

0

Mr P. Marftiall, Townhcad

75 0

0

Mr D Patrick, of Wcftcr Auchincloch -

40 5

3

Mr John Miller, of ditto.

35 4

9

Mr A- Laing, of Ruchhill

30 0

0

Mr William Ranken, of Bogfide

24 3

3

Mr J. Bow, pf Auchinruoch ?

20 0

0

Mr John Graham, of Auchincloch

14 I

4

Mr Young, of Brockyfide

7 10

0

Mr P. Bow, of Auchinclock

4 0

6

Scots L.

3916 17

9

Suppofed rental (ler. L* 2950 o o

Befides cot-houfes, feus, &c. which may be 150 more. The firft four arc non-rcfiding heritors. All the reft refide, except Mr Young. And the greatcft part of them farm their

own

f>f Kilfytb. 177

own property ; (b that there is no fixed rent put up- on it.

Farmers. — ^The farmers in this di(lri£l; are in general .a fo« ber, virtaousy and refpe£lable clafs of men : they are equally free from the licentioufnefs of the proud and wealthy, and from the growling and difcontented temper of the lefs fober and lefs induftrious poor. It muft be acknowledged, how- ever, that they do not in general much excel their neighbours in the art of farming : like the tenants of mod of the for« feited eftates in Scotland, they are perhaps rather indolent, becaufe they are independent ; and they make but few fpirited exerdons, becaufe their rents are fmall «nd their leafes long. Perhaps the principal caufe why they are be- hind in fome improvements, is, that their farms are in gene-< ral very injudicioufly laid out. They confift of a long nar- row ftrip/ beginning in the valley and riCng to the fummit of the hill ; fometimes one, two, or three miles long, and not a quarter of a mile broad. At the time when the leafes were granted, that is, about the beginning of this century, this might be attended with many conveniences. The great ob- ]z€t at that time for every farmer, was to have every thing he needed within his own farm : and by this divifion, he had his proportion of mofs, and meadow, pallure, and arable ground. Whereas, had the farms been regularly laid out, this could not have been the cafe. This, however, is now a great bar to improvement. For the rich low grounds in the valley and its Ticinity, by being interfered, and every farm by being inter- mixed with another in this irregular manner, cannot be inclofed to advantage ; of courfe, cannot be improved, from circum- fiances which are rather the misfortune than the fault of the tenants. For unlefs a general excambion were taking plac^, and every farm were ncv modelled, 'which is next to impoffi-

blc.

}

ayS Statijlical Account

blc, while the prefent Icafcs hft, the valley rtittft lie open, and uninclofcd ; and, therefore, continue to be poached all the winter : for this caufc it is, that the worft, that is the high lying cold ground, which is allotted for pafture, is all inclofed : while the low, warm, rich valley, lies open ; a circumftance this, which is furcly very uncommon in the pre- fent period.

It is chiefly owing to this circumftance, that every farmer IS in fome meafurc a grazier, though there are but few who follow that line to any great extent ; at the fame time, it is much more attended to, than it. was 40 or 50 years' ago. Be- fore the rebellion I745> a great proportion, perhaps one tenth of the arable part of the parifli, was cultivated. From the valley to the very brow of the hills, upwards of 800 feet a- bove the level of the fea, almoft every inclofure was ploughed in regular rotation. Whereas now, it is very uncommon to fee one acre in 20 of thofe high grounds cultivated. The reafon is obvious, and every one who looks at the grounds muft fee it. The fields arc ftccp, and of courfc, very cxpen- (ive in the culture : every plough requires 4, in fome places^ would require 6 horfes, and never lefs than two men. After all this labour and expence, the produce mu(i be fcantyi and the harveft late ; in fome cafes fo late, as to endanger the crop, if not ruin it altogether. Befides, as lime is at a confiderable diftance, and the roads bad, and as dung cannot be conveyed from the valley, where the farm houfes in general now (land, there is little probability of im- proving them to much advantage. For the expence of feed, labour, and manure, it is feared, would exceed the produce ; the high wages of men fervants, the advanced price of horfes, and of every utenfil that is neceflary, and the amazing ex- pence of carrying manure in fui&cient quantities to thofe high fields, are circumftanccs fuffici^nt to difcourage the farmer

from

ofKilfytb. ^79

from making the attempt, or at leaft to account for his un- wUlingnefs to hazard it. But let it not be fuppofed that the high fields are ufelefs, or of little ralue : on the contrary, they are rich and produ£tive to the farmers ; they are perhaps more productive than a great part of the ploughed land. They yield great abundance of the richeft and earlieft pafture in the weft of Scotland ; and being of a fouth expofure and uneven furfacc, they afford every variety of foil and flicker, either for fummcr or virintcr. The beautiful green hills, are covered with the fwecteft pai^ure ; the valleys, or rather in- terveening marihes, w.hich are likewife numerous, produce abundance of coarfe hay : and every little hill or inclofure, has its litde rivulet. The demand for fat cattle has increafcd, and feems to be increanng,and tlie high grounds have for many years been entirely employed to feed cattle. It is generally allowed, that there is no (Irath in the weft of Scotland more favourable for the purpofe than the ftrath which lies weftward from Kilfyth, through CampGe, and Strathblain *•

Horfes^

^ The graziers in this partHi are an a^irc induftrious and refpe^bledafs «f farmers : they feem to know their bufmefs weU ; and pufli it with confide- lable ipirit. If they are liable to any errors, it may perhaps be the fol- lowing :

ift. That they rather over(lock.their grounds, £o that the cattle have not fnfficicnt choice of the bed pafture : and belides the coarfe hay is thus greatly injured.

.^, In purchafing their cattle, they are not always at due pains to pick the ¥eft out of the flock ; whereas, if they were to exclude all the fliots, it would be ultimately for their intcrcft, though the cattle were dearer in the mean time»

3dly, They run too much upon highland cattle : doubtlefs, they take on the beef fad, and feed very quickly, and when fed, are Tweeter than largf;r cattle. But, perhaps, it would be the intcrcft of the grazier, to buy up

lar^c

A 82 Stati/lical Account

purpofe, yet as it is not inclofed or Tubdivided, it cannot be fown With wheat to any advantage : for the winter poaching would ruin the crop. Much of the rifing ground^ if inclofed^ fummer fallowed, and properly manured, might likewife produce abundant crops of wheat. Flax is raifed in fmall quantities, but chiefly for private ufe, and feldom for Xale : and the quality of it is at all times more remarkable than the quantity. Ir is generally allowed to be of the fincft grain and colour, of any in Scirlingftiire *. Rye grafs and clover have beeii introduced about lo years ; and as they have turn- ed out to great advantage, they are much run upon, at lead by all who have proper inclofures for the purpofe : though they are fometimes fown even for paflure in open fields.

But potatoes are the favourite produce of this pari{h, and it has been juftly and long famous on this account:— I fay juftly and long \ for it not only gave birth to the gentleman who firft introduced the culture of potatoes into the fields, by dibbling and hand-hoeing, but it was the fcene of his earlieft experiments : and, if the name of any man deferves to be handed down to fucceeding ages, with honour and gratitude. It is that of Robert Graham^ Efq s of Tamrawer, He, with a fpirit truly patriotic, and a mind adive and indefatigable, fet vigoroufly to work in the cultivation of potatoes in the year 1739. Before that period, he and others had raifed them in gardens : but there was a vulgar and a common

prejudice,

* ThUUdfeafon, I knew 20 Aone weight of Aax raifed from 4 pecks, and fold at 14s. the (lone : as eight pecks are allowed to fow an acre, this was a produce equal to L. 28 fter. per acre. Befides that, 1*8 pecks of feed were fiiT* ed off* the above half acre, and fold at half price.

Ic was confidered as a remarkably good^ though not an WKomin^s crop.

QfKilfytb, 283

prejudice, that they could be raifed no where elfe to ad- vantage. Mr Grahanrii to (how the abfurdtty of this opinion, planted about half an acre of ground in the croft of Neililone, where he then refided. This excited the attention of the neighbourhood, and the report of it vras foon fpread far and wide : infomuch, that people of all denominations, and fome noblemen of the higheft rank, (among whom was the unfortunate Earl of Perth), came to wifnefs the plantation* And had they known the amazing benefit that was to accrue to the nation, from this fortunate attempt, they would have doubtlefs hailed the aufptcious event, and ere£led a monu- ment to Mr Graham on the fpot. Rcgardlcfs of the ignorant ridicule to which his firft exprrimt* ntsexpofedhimyheprofecuted his favourite purfuit, with increafmg ardour and fuccefs : and by his pcrfcvcring induftry, and uncommonly happy talent for profecuting every fpecies of improvement, he raifed the cultivation of potatoes in the neighbourhood of Kilfyth, to a pitch fcarcely yet, if at all furpaffed any where 5 and to promote the fame fpirit, and fpread the blci£ng far and wide, he rented lands in the vicinity of Renfrew, and Perth, Dun* dee, and Glafgow, Leith, and Edinburgh ; and for many years obtained the premium for cultivating potatoes, till at laft no competitor was found ; all wcte compelled to yield the palm to him.

This will not perhaps appear fo furprifing, If the following fa^s are attended to.

After an endlefs variety of experiments, which he very pro- perly recorded, but the record of which is unfortunately loft, he, in the year 1762, planted one peck of potatoes with the dibble, and in Otlobcr following, raifed from the lame peck, 16 bolls and 4 boll, or 264 pecks.

As this may appear furprifing, if not incredible to fome, N n i \

284 Statiftkal Account

I am exceedingly happy to have it in my power to eftaUifh the i^Q, upon the moft unequivocal evidence. The gentlemen who were called to witnefs the planting and raifing of the potatoes, very properly publifhed an account of the whole operation in the Newfpaper of the day, for the benefit of the public* And happily the original atteftation is' now in my hands.

A copy of it will furely be acceptable, and deemed ftri£Uy ftatiftical ; more efpecially, as it points out the manner in which the operation was carried on, and the very high ftate of improvement to which Mr Graham had arrived*

« We John Marfliall of Townhcad, Henry Mar- '^ (hall of Kuck-hill, and Alexander Maxwell prefent " bailie of Kilfyth, went at the dcfire of Robert *' Graham of Tamrawer, and attended his fervants upoa " the 2ift of April 1762.

" We faw them meafure an exadl peck of potatoes, *' which we faw them plant with the dibble and draper. ** Eachfet was diftant 18 and ai inches length- ways ** of the ploughed ridge, and between 12 and 15 inches •' acrofs the ridge.

<* And updn the 26th of Oftober following, we *^ did alfo attend Mr Graham's fervants, while raifing ** the produce of the faid peck of potatoes, which we *' then faw meafured on the ground, amounting to 16 '* bolls and a half, which is 264 pecks, arifing from <* the faid one peck* The truth of all which is attefted f^ by us, and

" Signed John Marshall, *^ Henrt Marshall,

*? Al-EXANDER MaZWELL."

U

«/ Kilfytb. »8s

If the man who makes a fingle pile of grafs or corn to grow, where there was none before, in the eyes of Dean Swift, defervcd more o£ bis country than all the politicians that CTer lived, we leave it to the learned to weave a laurel crown for Mr Graham.

The method in which his operations were carried on, were ingenious and Gngular, and might have been defcribed.

There is no branch of hufbandry more attended to, nor profecuted with more ingenuity and fuccefsby all claiTeSy than the cultivation of potatoes. Every year there is fome real, or imaginary improvement introduced ; and it is eager- ly adopted and profecuted with much care and perfevcrance. 1 have known many try 8 or lo fpecies of feed in one feafon. Thb fpirit they partly have imbibed from Mr Graham ^ but fhe fuccefs is principally owing to local circumftances. The foil is not only highly favourable, but every feuer has, and almoft every inhabitant lays his account with taking, a fmall lot of ground, for the exprefs purpofe of raifing potatoes* They have befides time and inclination to bcftow great care, and attention, in planting, weeding, and drefling them. And their endeavours are generally crowned with fuccefs*.

Our

* The following leems to ht the refalt of endleis experiments.

2 ft, That the kidney poUtoe is the beft feed, moil prodnaive, and pleaiant ' to the tafte at the fame time.

idly, That ground which has never been broken np before, or at leaft, nexer produced potatoes, is by much the moft produ^ve ; though not better manured than other ground.

3dly, That potatoes ought to be planted each fet at the diftance of I foot 6 inches, from each other; at leaft in the ridge, even when they are not drilled.

N. B. It is uniyerfally agreed, that potatoes when frequently repeated, or even oftener than once in 7 years on the iame ground, are a very fcourging crop ; if once in twp years, they fpeedily reduce the foil to a caput mortwum.

4thly, That

286 Stati/lical Account

Our fcred time is rather late in general. In the laft week of March, or firft of April, the oats are for the moft part fown ; though fometimcs fown tonfiderably later. Potatoes are

planted,

4thly, That each plant fhoald be carefully boxed up with the hoe, if not drillecl, or otherwife with the plough ; as in that cafe, it becomes greatly more produaive. For every time the earth is thrown up, the plant ftrikcs oat new 6bres ; and a fucceflion of crop may thus be obtained. The loweft tire may be ripe and ready for eating, while the higheft are fcarcely formed. But where this is attempted, as it was, often by Mr Graha^, the plants ought to be 3 feet diClant from each other, in all directions.

jthly. It is allowed that if the ground be ica or grafs, the dung ought in that caie, to be fpread in harved preceding ; or at leaft, early in the fpring 3 that it may in fome meaAire be incorporated with the foil ; before it be ploughed. Bven in (lubble it is deemed advantageous.

6thly, It is generally allowed tkiat lime is very unfavouraMe for the cultiva. tien of potatoes. It is even faid, that the bad tSc(^% of it are experienced for 10 or 30 years. Oae of thefe is, that the crop of potatoes though large, is a) moft always fcabbed or foul.

7thly, The feed is generally cut in pretty large fets, and kept a week or two if poflible, before it be fct. This is faid to he a great advantage, par- ticularly in wet grounds. It is faid to make the potatoe fpring fooner, and to prevent the feed from rotting. For being (hrivelled and dryed, and cor Tcrcd with a kind of tough rind, it is more capable of refifting the moifhire, and at the fame time, has an equal tendency to vegetate quickly.

Sthly, A moil produAive crop may be raifed of early potatoes, before the middle of July. A;id either turnips, greens, or grafs-feeds, may be railed as a fecond crop. Yet the potatoes may yield of clear profit per acre, frooa X.. 10 to 12.

9thly, In gardens and fmall plots, the (locks of greens and cahbage, are one •f the beft manures for potatoes. If dug in drills, and the (locks be laid iit regularly, they both enrich the ground, and keep the foil open ; and thereby give room for the (hoots to fpread.

Laftly, Great crpps ha^vc been raifcd out of the young fljoots^ in place ol fcts.

ofKilfytb. I87

planted, and the barley fown in the lad week of April, and firft of May.

The old people make a general remark, that the fpring is xnuch later, and the fummers a great deal colder, than they were 40 or 50 years ago. Of courfe, that the harvcft is not only later, but much more precarious.

One remarkAble fummer is mentioned about 40 years ago, In which the heat was To great at feed time, that the labourer could not endure it at noon* So that it was a common thing to fleep the greateft: part of the day, and labour in the night. From barley feed-time, till barley harveft, there was not a fhower, but copious dews ; yet the crop was the mod pro- ductive of any (ince that period ; though the draw was ihort, and the (heaves few, and fcarcely a ftack to be feen in a barn-yard, the barns containing almoft all the grain and fodder.

Price of Pr9vijt9ns.^^h& to the price of proviGons, it is ge- nerally low. Beef, mutton and veal, are at lead a penny per pound lower than in Glafgow; fometimes eren two pence ; lamb and butter always two pence. Eggs and poul- try of all kinds are lower in proportion ; fo that it is needlefs to be more particular* It will doubtlefs ferve the purpofe of a datidical account better, to point out the comparative va- lue of as many articles as pofTible, at different periods. And as I had occaiion to confult an old memorandum, book, be- longing to Mr Cornwall of Banton, who was chamberlain to Lord Kilfyth in the year 1670, 1 find the precife price of the following articles, dated at that period ; and in another manufcript of a private gentleman belonging to this paridi, 1 find the fame articles rated in tlie year 1745. I ihall there- fore date the account.

Prices

ipo Statijiical Account

L\ s. d.

A hat to my Lord,

o ra o

A gun to do.

o Its S

A pair pocket piftols,

I 13 o

Do. hulfters furniOied

0 f<{ 0

A foit of cloths for his Lordfhip's page.

0 ij 0

A faddle and bridle furniflied to my Lord,

I 0 3

Matriculating his Lord(hip*s arms.

1 8 0 '

Small feeds for hta Lordfliip's garden yearly.

0 4 10

L s. d.

A (tone of Ikimmed milk cheefe.

0 4 tS

Do. of fweet milk not ikimmed.

080

A threavc of ftraw for thatch.

030*

A (tone of do. do*

0 0' a

A (tone of tarry wool,

070

Of ^vhite do.

096

A mutchkin of fweet milk,

000^

A Scotti(h pint of churned do.

0 0 oi

Weaving a yard of liqncn.

008

A man, a horfe and cart per day^^

0. 5 0

A fpindle of linnen yarn fpua,

e I 6

A peck of potatoes dug for,

00 OJ

A wood cutter a day,

0 1 3

A pealer do.

008

A (tone of bark.

016

looflabs 3Jfcetlong,

036

Do. 4i feet long,

0 4 ^ .

A

The ipent of lands bore much the fame proportion* Ac the above period, I Hnd the very beft lands in the valley, fee from year to year, at the rate of los. ftcr. the acre. At this mo- inenf, they yield from 50s. to L. 3: fter. A great part of (be valley is fct at that rat^ : but^ I fuppofe it would not

tf Kiljytb. ftpf

yield to raudi upon a leafe of 19 yearsi Tn general the rents are very low in thb parifli, as the Jeafcs were many of iStfVDL graoted about the beginning of this century* An acre in poutoea or flax, if prepared for the cropi lets at L. (S fterliog*

The wages of fenrants have rifen in a ftill greater pro- portion* They are nearly triple to what they were eren 49 years ago. independent of his food^ a ploughman cxpe£ia fi;pm L* 10 to L« i2| a maid ferrant from L* 3 to L. 4. A bay qutter charges as« 6d* a day, a reaper in harveft as. a fcma}e do« is* 6d. When engaged by tl^. week a^d fining his own. provifionsy a man receives j^s. and a female, 7s -weekly. ^A weaver can earn from is. Cd« to 28« 6d* a day at an average*

r

jtaitqtatie/, igti^..^s^Tht anti<iuities in thb parifh are |iot ^ery. remarkable i yet a few deferve a place in this zc* count.

This diftriA muft have been the fcene of contention^ and the field of blood for many generations ; perhaps from the days^of .Agricola^ till the civil war in 1646. It feems to have been without the fixed limits of the Roman empire. For the Ibuth boundary of the parifh runs nearly parallel to Graham's Dyke for upwards of 6 miles* In that dillri£l pf die wall^ it is never more than half, nor lefs than a quar- ter of a mile fouth of this parifh. At Wefterwoodj and Bar-hill, there are two diftind Roman Forts -, and of courfe, two Pidifh forts in this parifh correfponding to thefe ! Cunny park to the former, and BalcafUe to the latter. The laft mentione4 is by much the mofl remark-* able* It is perhaps the a;ioft beautiful> regulari and entire ^f any Fidijih fort in Scotland* It is placed in the angle Qi two (mall *rill5> near a farm hoofe called CafUe town^

O o a Of

i$% Statyikal \4ceount

or Baliaftfc, on tliat accoant ; and, it rifcs regnhrlf on «{t fid^atan angle of 45 degrees, fo that the farm of it re- femblfes the top of a hat' ; bat it is not equaHy high all jk f{>iind\ Oft the fduth it iar about 40 feet, on the north oalf 20 perpendicular : and it h^s been furrounded on all fides bf a fofs, which might eafily be filled with ^^ter by the tirulets on either Irde. At the bafe it \9 nearly too yards in diameter ; at the fummit, which is fht, it is fcarcely 50^ and Is quite circutar. There is a tradition that it is hollow wifhhi; and fome pretend to hate feeti th<; ifiotitfc of ^r mine open, which leads to the cavity. But,^'tf -ttiere ever tn^s fach a mine, it is now 'entireif ihut'tipy bnd there is not die fmalDsft teftigi of any fubterraneims' pafltige at prefcnt.

The floptng fides of this mound are covered with broom and bfufhwood. The top» though once overgrown alfo, is now dearedj and often cultivated, and produces excellent potatoes and oats.

Tlie other fort at Cunny park feems not toha)ve4>ee«ib>Te- gular or htrge. At leaft it is not now fe entire : and icarcel]^ deferves to be mentioned.

Befides thefe, there have been other Romair aatiqntfieft found in this parilh and neighbourhood. Por an accouatof (h^fe, I refer the trader to Horfel^y^s Britaonia, aod Henry's hiftory. They arc moftly lodged in the univcrfity of Glafgow, That learned focicty have thrown off coppeiu plate impreffions of all the Romran antiques in their po& feflion.

There are fcveral circular fortifications, called cheftevs^ which bear evident marks of great antiquity. The mod re* markable are at Auchincloch, Auchinviilie, and TowQhea4« They are all fimilar to each other, and much about the fame

fisei

of Kilfyth. 393

fise; Keiag nearly 40 or 50 yards diameter. The outer wall or inciofure^ for fome of them have evident marks of fmaller, but irregular tnclofores within, confifts of a rude ma&i of large and fmali tumbling ftones, built without any regularity or -order ; and without mortar of any kind. In times of ig- norance and barbarifin, they may however have been places cf considerable ftrength* Though it feems very uncertain fbr what purpofe they were at firft creeled*

That they were ftrong holds» or places of defence, or (hel* ttr, feems unqueftionable. Indeed the name they bear, feems CO' indicate this much; for chefter in Gaelic, figntfies a i-^m^. And as the name is of Gaelic original, for this as well as^ t^Mt reafons, 1 am difpofed to think they are of greater an*v tiquity, than even Agricola's wall, or Graham's dyke. Per* haps they are coeval with the Roman forts ; and it is general* Jy aUowedj that ihefc were formed before the wajl..

if this belfae cafe, in all probability, thefe cheftcn niafr bave been intended as places of refuge, for the women and childfeni and the defencdefs and unarmed inhabitants of thif difttiA. To them they would naturally fly for (helter, in cafe of an unexpe£led defeat, or fudden incurfion of the Roman invaders. The fituatioo and ftruAure of thefe foni« ficationsi fcem both to favour this conjecture. They are fi« Mated at no great difttnee from the Roman wall \. lying alo^ the north fide of th& valley, which was the boundary of that empire. Befides this, they contain a number of fmail fubdi« "vifions, like the ruins of rude huts, which might have fecvcd for fljclter from the (torm ; as fhe great outer wall was for iaiety from the invader.

This at lead feems a nK>re plauflble conje&nre, than that they were intended as a place of fecunty for cattle, and the Other (lock and moveables of the natives. They are too fmall to contain any confiderable number of cattle. And befides

the

^94 Siati/lical Account

the neighbouring mountainsj fumilh in a thoufand dittereni placesi protection, as well as pafture for cattle, to much better purpofe. Nor is ic likely, that they were intended as a defence from the wolres, and rarenotfs beafts* The wall that furrounds them, fecms to be a work of much great* er labour and ftrength, than was neceflary for thispurpofe.

But if we fuppofe, as is furely rery likely^ that the Caledo* nians had a (landing army always along the line of the R<y man wall, they, though fearlefs of dan^er^ and difdaining all ihelter, but the ftrength of their own arm, muft neccflariJjF have been attended with a number of women, and defenc^ lefs followers. Thefe needed, and naturally fought fpf .^ place of refuge. And fuch a refuge, the chefters. naight ^af^ ford* 3

, But

* Nature feesis to have marked otit this ((rath, as the hoiatiitrf' fA the Roman Empire. Mfhetfier it was pitched Upon TuA "Btceflify or 'dunee, f vanfiot fay. But the following particulars witt flitkofll Kp^AV thkt ICkvtt the moft eligible place for raifing up a barrier. AgupO? ^ native Cakdopj|>p<^

id, It is by much the narroweft place in the whole I0and. T)ie Frith of forth and Clyde inter fed the kingdom for many miles on either fide.

idly. It is befides the north boundary of tbe lowlands. The whole coiin« XPftc the north, appears to a ftranger, tcrlkfati cndlefs ifuccclfidli of tieak l^d barren mountains.

3^1y« The whole (Irath of Kclyip, ieepns^tahave bamaa loipaiEble mo- rafs. In fome places, I fuppofe the whole valley was covered with waters From this weft ward to the Clyde, it was therefore a natural barrier of itTeJf* From tbe Dulhtur bog caft ward, it fecms to have been entirely under water. Camclodunum Teems to hayfc heeh ^ /ea*p<Mt town. If It was h^ the whole valley to Kilfyth parifh, mufl have been an arm of the Tea, though not navi* gable, yet next to impaflible. Had it not been for thefe nattlral advantaget of fi ination, the Roman wall muAf havd been a feeUe defence agaioft the hai-dy, brave, and free foMs of Caledonia* -

In more than one place, there 'iecms to have been artificial mounds railed \a the valley, to throw it upder wMer.

The

oj Kilfytb. igs

But this 18 given merely as a conje£lure. For though ma- ny of the ftoncs have been removed, there never has been found the fmalleft veftige of any infcription, nor even of any charader whatever upon them.

The tumuli in this parifh are probably of equal antiquity with the chefters. Thefe however, have never been nume- rouS) or confiderable ; and they have all been rated to the foundation, for many years. The larger ftones have been ufed for huilding ihclofureSi the fmaller for the highways. f have been able only to trace cKe Gre of two of thefe tumuli. The one at a field near Auchincloch/ which I am told in Gallic, {^gnVfies a field of (tones. The other about 600 yards eaTt fr6m Chapel green. That they were creded as monu- ments over the dead is generally allowed^ as urns contain- ing the a(he8 of the dead, have been found in mod, if not in iU that have been examined.

But the .qutftion ftill remains, by what nation were they CTcAed f If by the native Caledonians, why have urns been fotittd in them, with evident marks of the bodies having been burnt ? If by other nations, whence came they ? For though , fome may be fuppofed to be Roman, they cannot all be fo, as the greateft part of them are beyond the Roman boundary. And yet there is a very ftriking (imilarity in the ftrudure of them, which vrould argue they were the work of one nation. But for what end were fuch mighty piles huddled together^ in fuch a rude confufed mafs, and with fuch immenfe labour and drudgery, upon the fummit of very high hills coo, where

fcarcely

The Ban-hill, feems tq me to hare been tin moft ioftportant fort. It if nearly ceatrical ; and commaods a Tiew of the wall for niatly half itt length ; fod It overlooks the whole ftrath to the north. Befides, it is nearly oppofite to the only narrow plac^ of the valley ; where a pafTage coald be fora^d with ll^e greatefl expedition.

296 Statyiicai Account

fcarcelf a ftooe was to be found ? If it wu vc^tXj^ to commemorate the ate hievements of the dead, or as 3 monument to his pratfe; how comes it that there nevet has been found any infcriptiony or even hieroglyphic^ to point out the names, defignatioQj chara£ter, or country of the deceafed ? If it was merely to defend the body from thfi ravenous wolves, and wild beafts, one tenth, in many czlts^ one hundredth part of the pile might have fufficed. And. belides^ the body feems to have been burned; to that thefc was no danger ifrom tfaat quarter. It feeipSf how<e^er, certain^ that thefe were the works noi: of any indiviidual, oc.&mUys. but of a whole clan, or tribe, or nation* Perhaps ^y VW». the work of ages. All nations pay yicoeration |o tbe ,^fl|MA of the dead ; and I believe there are none fo ru^^ayd liawi^-. lized, as to havi^ np inonumetUs* lo earijr aps, tl|(QrQaitivcs . of this ifland, might fall upon this method gf diftinguiiliihg - the jgraves of great heroes, and eminent faintf^ As a tcibiite'r of efteem, every traveller as he pa(fe4, w^uld nafUfatfy ^dd . his (tone to the heap ; fo that although fm^llat firft, it.wottU 1 ' increafe from year to year, ia proportion jta the v^eralioa that was paid to the deceafed. In-evydeoce of tbi£, it is f«id, that a fi-^tilar cullom ftili prevails in the highlands of Scot** land; and al mod every cairn or tumulus, has its •refpeAive name, as Angus- cairn, &e.

£>ne'of the cairns in this, pariffa, Iikewife records the name of fome faint or hero. Ic is near a place called JCelvin-bead* Now, as hel^ or cuiU or cellct fignifies a cell, or boryiag ground ; fo vean^ or bsan^ which in Gallic are the fame, is ~ the name of a Culdee faint ; or, according to fome, ^f Fin^ ga/^ the Caledonian hero. At all events, this tumulUs feems to have beeii the burying place of Vean. And hence the ori- gin of the' names in the neighbourhood of it, as Bean-ton^ or» ;is it is now coatra£led, Bayoton > JBeanemyre ; Tom-jreani

or

dr haak% and Kd'uin b the name t>f thetlver^ trkkkrirei Ycry nearly whtte*the cairn flood.

There are^both in the eaft and weft barony a fev^ monvL*

ments of fettdal tyranny. In the Bar^iomd^ (from whence Vt

doubtleb derived its name,) there id an eminence ftill cailedF

the Cwrt tU/, where the haughty Barona were wont to fit ift

judgement* And near Quinxle-barn in the weftharonyi there

is an eminened called' the Gdllow-hillt where the fentence wa$

pot vtk execution. The ?ery place where the g^lows ftood^ ial

ftill pointed out. Thefe ferfe only to recall to mind thft

days of ctuel ^e^tifm, when, at the call of a lawlcfa tyran^

the dcfencekfs, perhaps innoeent ti£lim^ was dragged froni

his peaceful lowly €0t| and in one fingle day^ without evif

d^n^ of his guilt, or an opportunky of acquittal, waf at»

rained, tfiedi, condemned, and executed I , And while w#

heave a figh over the forrows of our fatherai the very i ecol^f

ledioQ of that flavery tinder which they groaned and ble4t

makes us lift up our eyes in grateful homage, and Uefs int'

dutgent heaven, that we ara^ happy and free !

At difierent periods, and in a variety of places in this pa^* rt&, there have been a number of ancient coins foond^ But the greateft part by far has been concealed from the public. Of thofe that have been feen, part have been of gold^' part of copper, but the greateft number of filver, and of all fites, from a three penny piece, tqjthat of a crown. A feir may ftill be recovered, and at a very trifling ezpence, for fhey are regarded only as bullion ; and as far as I have ieen^

iivould not be much efteemed by the antiquarian. The greateft part have been found along the field, whert I the battle of Kilfyth was fought. It belongs not to me to

L ^ve any detail of t\si^t engagement in this place. Sulfide' itf

only to fay, that every Hitfe hill and valley, bears the rianie^ or records the deeds of that day. So that the ficuatfcn.of Vol.. X VIII. Pp faeh

a98 Statiftkal Account

each army can be diftindly traced. Such as the -Btilet 4ild Bap^gage-knowy the Drum- burn, the Slaughter-how or holloWf' KMe-man^f butU^ &c. &c. In the Bullet know and neighbour* hoodi bullets are found every year \ and in feme placeS'^fo thick, that you may lift 3 or 4 without moving a ftop« Itt the Slaughter how, and a variety of other places^ bOtics and Ikeletons, may be dug up every where ; and in every little bog or marfh for three miles, efpecially in the DuUator bog| they have been diGcovered in almoft every ditch. The phccf where the bodies lie in any numberi may be eafily kaowiLi as the grafs is always of a more luxuriant growth iafuftimei^ and of a yellowlfli tinge in fpring and harveft. The hilt of a (word^ and part of a faddle, with a variety of coins, liave been fouQd in different places } and at one time, a gold ring with an.cfcotcheon was difcovered ; but it is now loft>. or in the pofleffion of fome perfon unknown to me*

The little hill where the gallant Graham encamped the night before the engagement, is fomewhat remarkable. The tents have been raifed with fod, and it is eafy at this day, to diftinguifh the place where they (lood, and the form and fi^e of each. The ftation was extremely well chofen, and gave him every advantage over the enemy, perhaps in a great tneafure enabled him to decide the combat.

The carnage muft have been dreadful. And the confe* ^uences were fatal, and long felt by the defencelefs inhabi- tants*. Like every other civil war, it was carried on with the keeneft contention, and unrelenting cruelty. Many of tne peafantry were butclicred, and many more plundered. To this day, numberlefs fcenes of blood and cruelty are re- corded. One in particular is mentioned. A poor country* ni^n having fled with his four Tons,- was overtaken by a flying farty. Being fufpcftcd by them, they inftantly fell upon the ^Id maa« though feeble and unarmed. The generous youths ' ' clnnj

. of J^JyiK ^99

(dnng tfound their aged fire, either to plead for, or defend him. In this pofture it is faid» they were all cut to pieces, mnd ttow lie in one tomb.

On this article I may mention, that there is a very fine arch- ed Tault, or burying ground, under the church. This was originally ere£ted by the family of Kilfyth ; and it has been their burying ground for many generations. As the eftate was forfeited, and the title became extin£l in the year 1715,' it has n^ver been ufed as a burying ground fince that period. Tbomnfortunate Vifcount himfelf fled to Flanders \ and though / Jie tetumed more than once, incog* in the habit of a com- BMlft^^gar, aiid as fucfa, lodged with feveral of his tenants, #nd'ftcttT€d a cohfiderable quantity, if not the whole of hi^ filtA^afe, yet it is certain, he wai not buried in KilfythJ TIm iradttSiB is, and 'it it faid to be confirmed by a variety of people, and even by fome papers and letters lately found, diat he and' a number of the unfortunate Noblcfle, were citbir iKMn*dered, or died by a fudden accident in Holland, about the year X7i7< '

The laft that was tftfried in this place, was his lady. She Is fasd to have b^en of the family of Dundee *. Her body

•^Ppa being

* JciD» danshter of Lord William Cochrane, fon and iieir of ^WiUSsfli** ISarl of Dnndonald. Sho ^ras Grft nmrried to JohA VifoMuit of Pa^dccn tlien to the Vifcoant of Kilfyth. Her fon died in infaacj.

^ &raii(ford*6 Peerage, Dundee, Dundonaid.

Xiftdy KHfyth with her iafki^t ion,' was fmothercd or killed ia Holland, or Vlanders» kpf the fidling of a roof, idoSg wHlir lier tiuiband. It has heen (fap^ pofed that the thiiij; happened sot hy accident* but defigit ; that I^Stflt c6n-» fiderable pcdbni who had been concerned in the JLfbeUion.l7X5« >ei» la^ Y<lVed in it, as well as the family of KiUy th ; and tha^ onjiy twp 9t tjhf vhol* comply eicaped, by being feated in a window. That this account is in ge^ n/txA tme, may be iecn ftom letters lately found (in 1780), among the papers in t)K Aalvocatcs Ubiw^, whi<^ ^er to tJiif}^ The fad if detailed befides

ip« Siatifii^al Account

Idng tn&T^tii v^s fent oyer to Scotland foon tftcf , uA Varied In great pomp, at Kilfyth> It was inclofed, firil in a leaden coffin» nicely cemented \ that again with a very ftrong wooden coffin. The fpace between the two coiEns, was filed up with a white matter, feme what of the conGftency tnd colour of putty | but of a rich and delicious aromatic flavour. It is but a few years agOj fince this matter was bid open, by the decay of the wooden cofBn. And a few weeks ago, the lead coffin was perfectly entire. But fome rode thoughtlefs people, having gone to vifit the tomb, with facrilegious hands tore up the lead covering. To their great furprife, they found under it a board of fir, as clean and ft^Oi, as if it had been formed yefterday. This being loofened, Vy the removal of the lead, they, to their utmoQ: aftokiifli''* inent) found the body of Lndy Ktlfyth, aud her child, as entire as the hour they were entombed. ^ Every feature, and every limb, is as fuU, nay the xcrf Ihroud is as clear and frefk, and the ribbans as bright, as the very day they were lodged in the tomb. What renders the fcene truly interefting as well as ftriking, is, that the body of her fon and only child, the natural heir of the titles ^A ellates of Kilfyth, lies at her knee. His features are as eompdfed, as if he were only aileep. His colour is as firefli, titid his ffefli as full, as if in the pcrfeft glow of health. ' He ft^s to have been an infant of the age of 3 months*

The body of Lady Kilfyth, b equally well preferved : a)Bd ft wt>uld not be eafy for a ftranger to diftinguifli with his eye, whether flie is <fead or alive. For, with the elegant

ftyle

.|ii DslrfBiple's Memoirs. TIia w««ni} whkh Laaj XUTyth received mt on the right temple; and is ftill m diftioO« as oa the day flte reccijred it. The child Teems \o have received no other iojuryy than that of being fino- Shtrtd id the srms of its mother*

ofKiifytb. 301

4tyle m which Oic is drefledy the Tivid colour of the ribbans, the frefhnefs of her looks^ and the fulnefs of her featured, flie arrefts the attention, and interefts the heart. And un« feelmg as the grave muft that heart be, which doth not heav^ a figh at the fight.

For m J partf it excited in my mind a thoufand melancholy 9e,fl4:£iiQ«t» |{iit above all, the deepeil regret, diat fuch vio* tencc had been oj&red to her afiies, as to lay them open to view.

Happily there is not one fold of her (hroud difcompofed, nor a fingle feature or member yet impaired. But I feari^ fh^t t}eing now es,pofed to the open Vir, and the fine aromadjc fluids wubin the co^n daily evaporating, the body muft fooa inoulder kito dtift. Tq prevent this, the coffin has been. •cJofird with as great care as poflibk, and the aecefs to the tonfb is fbut.

The H<ji|id in which the body has been ptcferved (and th^ coffin feenas t,o have been full it, for the whole (hroud is fa^ turated with /it), feems to be a pure ardent fpirit, of t'hef •olottr and confiftenoy of brandy, or rather fpirit of wirm. But though pcrfeflly pure, it has entirely lofl all its pun- gent qualities, and fcems now quite vapid.

The tomb is an arched vault 16 feet fquare and quite (huit 9p s, but, from what it contained, the air of it is as fweet, puve, and odoriferous as a baM room.

I have only to add, that there is in my poflcffion an old ma- nufcript, much mutilated, which feems to be a chronicle of Scotland. Mu,ch of it is yet legible. It takes up the hif- lioxy of Scotland ^K tlie chriftLan aera ;. and contains a regQ>» lar leries of all the remarkable events in every king's reign,' with the name of the kings, down to the year 15^5. I have compared it with many memoirs, hiftorics, and annals of Scotland, but as far as I can yet le^rn, it 13 an original, and 90( a copy. I think ii may be valuable.

This

302 StatiJHcal ^count

This pariOi has m commoa widi others experienced yeaft of fcarcitj, on which a few remarks are fubjoined in a note *•

MifciUannus

• GreatfcavcityapprcMichiiistoafamioe. The moft remarkable was dnriag tlie 7 laft years of the Uft centory. And for that reafoo, they are called- the 7 dear yean. There may perhaps have been one, or even two years fucceffivelf dT as great fcarcity fmce that period: but there never has been more. Of coorie, thetril was more laiKiig and more generally felt at that time, than ever Goce i •;ad la all probability accumalated every year; tillat Uft the abCblate neceffiuieS of life oonld Scarcely be got for any money. The price of provifions was exorbi- tant. Barley meal, though tery inferior in qoality, was fold at a merk thi; peck ; Mtsrofe to the enormous fum of L. %o Scots the load, while oat meal was not to be pnrchafed. For though feverrJ of the more opulent inhabitants went to' Ylilldrk, the richeft com country within 30 milts, they could procure no fu^* ply at any price. Greens boiled with fait, became a commoa food. Foddat was as icarce as grain. Many of the cattle perilhed at the ftall, and many of. them who were driven but to feck a fcanty pittance expired in the field. Mo* * then fell down dead with their infants at their breafts. £ven many of the pe«« pk who iurriTed, were feeble and emaciated, and became a prey to numberlelf and Altai difeafes. The mortality was U> great, that a peftilence ieems to have ivceeeded the famine.

The canfes of this icarcityare not known. But it is (aid, that the harvefts were late, and the winters early ; fo that the froft and ihow blafted the growii^ coms« ' Various (hifts not known (ince, were tried in order to ward off the evil. K* ' ' nong the left it is mentioned, that fnails were coUeAed in fummer witli gvfat care, and (alted for the winter's ftore.

Indolent Heaven has been more liberal to us. So that this generation haf

never known want, like that which our fathers experienced. The year 1 740,

was a year of fcarctty, perhaps equal %q any one of the 7 dear years* Oat meal

rofe to the exorbitant price of ss..the peck : and at one time could fcarcely be

procnred for money. Every other neceflary of life was in proportion dear :

yet few, if any,diedofabrolute want. As money, however, was icarce, aa4

maaufa£hifes almoft unknown among us, numbers whoie (ituatlons gave them

no reaibn to expeA it, were through want of employment reduced to the hu^

filiating neceffity of craving a fcanty pittance from door to door. Others

were fttpplied from the poors funds, in a more private manner. The oiun-

ber of Paupers was thus greatly increaied ; and their necefCtles and demands

increafed in proportion. Of courfe, the parifh Amds were deemed InfufEcient^

and an aiTefrment became neceflary. Tet this is the only year lillce the Re*

^lutpn, that the fcflion were driv^ to this expedient*

Tho

9f Kilfytb. 3^03

* MiftdlafUiw Rrmarks.'^A fcwremarkaUe phenomena which )»ve appeared in this pari(h| are llkewife fubjoined in a note K

Mmhura ' Ithn ctutet of this fcardty are genenil/ knowii. The hatred Wt hte. The CMDf of coorie were greatly injured by the winter froft, which iet in earij «ad fevere. Potatoes^ though introduced into this pariih, were ouly cnkiratcd in Tery fmali quantitief by Mr Graham. £ren thofe that were raifed, wera Aot prefeiTTed with fuch care as to protect them from the ftonn, which wms un- oommonly ftvere. Many fowls, (bme cattle, and a few of the wild a&imals^ ^rert froses to death/ Many of the people were fnfk birten. And tttnch of the texe^ Vtotm^ ^and braftwood, and of courfe^ dl tliei greens and faiAHl 4ibAi 4t(|tyc4 att4 became iifeleri*

^ It U^4mQ(| ^neceflary to mentioo^ that there was a confiderablc ftarcity in the year tf^2. I believe it was gcneially felt ; and in other dillria$ more fcA- fible than tcre. The potetoes though a moft luxuriant cropt were rather lat^ iild they were toully left. The com harveft was alfo late. The winter wal ieaily t? fo thaev great j^rt of the oati were never ripened. And\M> fmall pait vas rotted in the Mi aftcTlt was reaped. Bven that part whkh was pnfktftd, was notprodoaive. The following year added to the calamity, for theiecd be- ing generally bad, and equally fcaroe, the produce of courie was fmall. The poorhadleistoiow, and what was fown »as much lefs produaive ; fo that «pon the whole, that year was not much more abundant than llie former. And, h«d it not been for a very fcaibnable fiipply of white peaic, boththt poor add the nth Jrinft have been Sa a deplorable condition. Sven the refpec* Cable farmers, who have gencimllf meal enough and to fpeie^ were reduced tb the neceiSty of buying one peck of meal after another. Yet the price ne?cr much exceeded is. 6d.

The inhabitants of the Tillage, efpecially the ibcicty of weaTers, very wifely laid out a part of thrar funds, for pnrchaftig that necefllry artide, at the bweft whole&le prices : and reUiled it tt prime eoft. This proved a great i^ lief to moltitudes. For meal was thns aUnoft always to be had here, aad at a lower price than could naturally hare been expeaed« The fociety loft little or nothing ; at the ntmoft only the inteieft of then- money for a few months.

In the year 1793, and 1794, the great ftagnation of trade, andthe almoft total want of employment, bore hard on the vanifaaoring dafsof inhabi. taatf. And had the lame cirenmftanees operated in fame degree for a fio^ rear more, all canks and denMiiiiatipnaaaft hare fok the cooib^cQcef^ .; .rin the year 1733, on the 17th Jane, there was a rwj temarkable thmx;. t» (brm. The notaang was fair : the iky dear ; Uye (ba bright. About

nr

304 Statiftical Account

Eminent Men. — ^This parifli has produced a few cnuncnt men^ whofe names ought to be recorded. << Sir William Livingdone of Kilfyth, was a man of mach

*« penetration

f X oMock, A. M. 8 gittming, bat gldomf d&rkntiiOftfrfiM^ted tke flrf * Ili» fim wu Iborn of hU beamt^ and put on • difmal dark eofiper cdkmr^

iThe cloud th»t overcsft the (ky^ atofe Ic tbt A«th ired. At firft It ap^Mtf tery fmttll : bat at it ap|>fMched, it bectoM dirker afid tarf^f « «!# gfcancd witii ligbtnin^ And as the darkMft iiicr«afedi tke flaOttS h6tmi9 movt Tiyed.

About one o'clock, this cloud reached onf hflls. The }±gM^wp fl«A«i| ipcefEmt : the thunder roared tremendoas, afld thf mocMtftSns fteftied \m Aake. At firil, a fe^ dropptog fra|^ents of bMk^n ice (^ great (lie fel^ This was a hap]iy warabg to ali'who were ia the fieUs to Hf for flieHef. fM they remained without, they Hnift hnrt been greatly ktirt, f6t (omt of tttfUiflt aKafured 3 indtes in circwnfiereBce ; ibmefay a great deal brgfc#. Aftd iftMl ia fuch qnaotitiea, as to c»Yer the furfne^ feme inches deep« It was ictaiT oeit day before it melted away.

The damage done by tke hail was y^ eoftfideiabte ; and ky the flo6d ftoA the hiUs fttli mocefo. The barley which was beginning to (hoot, tike Has, wkSdK was tken b tke bloom, and tke peafe and beans, whidi kad began fo blaflbaftf were almoU irrecoverably loft, being cut and dalhed fo the ghountf, by the itA The corns in the vaUies were greatly injured by the raptdhy of tke floods though it was only of a few hours duration. As if a water fpout bad £s0en, and Ibme fuppole this was the eafe, the face of the htHs which ati hour beforcT were parched, was covered with numberlefs torrents, ib as to have the ap«* pearance of a great ccHled^ion of eatara^s^ Every rill be<SKtte a rirer, fweep- in^houies^ bridges, com, and cattle, aU before k, with irrefifHble ftiry. The amfequences of this flood were felt for years, and the derxflatbn it occafionedf may yet partly be feen. Several acres in the vallies, were overlaid with (lones qf all fises, from (lonos of 30 tons, to the fmaHcil gX^TcL In fbme places this' kiyer was 4 or 6 feet deep ; and a part of them (¥31 remalin. At a moderatStf calcnbtrntt, tbe damage done kl this pariffa, though fortunately it exfcndifid only to this, was npwaisds of I., zooo fterKng. See beginning of Mr liobe*S larrative. Happily no lives wcw loft, though many narrowly cforped. A womair

of Kiljytb. 30s

^* penetration tfid confiderable learning. Beirig efpecially *« eminent in the knowledge of the law, he was appointed " one of the fenators of the College of Juftice in 16C9. And '< having diftinguiihed himfelf in that office by his affiduity <^ and abilities, he was in a few years admitted to be one of « his Majcfty's Privy Council, and cionftitutcd Vice-Cham^ ** berlain of Scotland. He died about 1627**' *

and cbiid in her arms, were (lightly injured by the lightning fitting tt her •wn fire, while a cat wa$ killed at their feet. Some women who weitt bleachii^ clothes in the Talley, narrowly efcaped the rapi4ity of the torrent^ by climbing up a thorn tree which was hard by. This thorn dill Aand# in the Yalley. Many cattle weie fwept away, along with the houfcs in which tliey fiood. It is faid, that fomc of thefe were left alive, when the flood inbfided. It is even (aid, that an infant in a cradle was carried feveral hun* dred yards along the dream, and yet was found fafe.

In the years 1769 and 70, when the great canal was cut through the Pulla» tur bog, there appeared a very fingular phenomenon. Myriads of fmaii toii4% eachaboutthe (ize of a nut, orfmallturkey bean, were feen hopping over all tl^^ adjacent Belds, to the eitent of feveral miles fquare. Ten, ibmetiines tM«n- ty or thirty, might be colleAed in one fquare yard. So that when you looked along the furface of the ground, they appeared hopping like ball ilones. What was very fingular, they were all going in one diredtioo, dire^lhf Borth ; yet they were never feen beyond the fummtt of the hiU ; no* wo^ where in any quantity the enfuing fpring. .

It is fnppofed they came originally from the Dullatur bog, which is a large and Very deep morafs ; and in all likelihood it has once been a lake. For at jneient, it is only covered with a thin matted turf, or fward. Under "that, there is in mod places, a great body of water, though in fome, of flow mofs* And near the weA end of it, there is a fmali dry rifing ground covered witl» wood, which is called the ealan^ oc in Engliflx ibe ifland. > From all ¥|hich 1 aq^ diipofed tothiak, that in the time of the Romans, perhaps Gnce tl^t period » at was one deep extcnfive lake. Yet it never fent forth at any other period ia the memory of man, any fuch fwarm of reptiles. Thefe, though innumerable« were all of one age and fize. If it were to fend forth fuch a fwatm anAuatlyy the whole country would foon be overrun.

Vol. xvm. Q^q

^66 Stat0kal Aetount

^ Mr John Livingfton wa& likewife ft Dftttte df thh p,Yi(H. ^ H<rwa8 born in the year 1603. His father was a relatioii ^ of the family of Eilfyth, and poffefied a (mail efta^e lA ^* the eaft barony. It would appear^ that the nianie of th^ *' eftate was Monaeburgh. The greateft part of the viflag^ ^' 18 built upon it| though the boundaries of it are not Well ** known.**

*^ -Mr Livingfton was a man of letters and piety. Early ** in life, he devoted himfelf to the ftudy of divinity. He ^' held a charge in the mini-dry firft in Ireland. After *^ fpending a number of yeafs in thi^ chatge, he Was trinf^ ** lited to Stranraer, and next to Anctuni near Jcdl)urgB!| ^ He was ihtellligentj, a£live, zealous, and fuecefeful in^ *^ promoting the interefts of pure and undefiled religion. ^^ His memory is ftill dear ; and though the memoirs h6 '^ wrote are in few hai^d«» they arc eagerly read hj the inh^ ^tantsofKilfyth/*

• ^'' His life, tranfaftions, and death, ar^ narrate4 at fomc ** length. He died in the year 1672.'* ' •' I have had occafion to mention, that Mr Rpberk B Graham of Tamrawer^ was a native of this p.arlfli ; and •* Aat hb name deferves to be handed d'owti td pdfterkyi •** otl Account of bis very fuccefsfiil experiments upon the culi «<"tivation of potatoes.*' '

*^ ** It may perhaps deferve to be mentioned, that there. *• is a family of the name of Stevenfon, who for many •* generations have been eminently ufeful, and much em* ^ ployed in rcftoring diftocated joints, and drcffing bto- •^ ken limbs. Though in a great mcafure ignorant of ^ ^he theory, they have at leaft acquired thd prafkicc 5 and ^' in all generations, as weU as ihis^ have been often fuc* f^cefsf^,'^ '

I

Mole

of Kil/ytb. 3c>

' M^ie rf Livings fsfc. A great Tariety of clianges ia

the external appearance and mode of living of the inhabt* antSi have taken place within the laft 50 years. The mod obvious and remarkable of thefe may be mea- tioned.

In their drefs, there is a very vifible change. Former* ly, the mpft refpe&able farmers, ufed to wear nothing but Scotch cloth, generally of their own making, plaiding hofe» and blue bonnets. Now, the fervant men on, holidays wear nothing elfe than EnglKh cloth, cotton ^nd thread ftockingsy and hau. The females formerly, wore nothing but » linen head drefs, and tartan worfted plaids, whick ccfvered the head, or at beft red fcarlet cloidcs. WhereM BOW, every maid fervant wears a filk bonnet and cIoak» and generally muflin or printed gowns, and thread ftock- ings. So that the men and women fervants, are now .mud^ more gayly drefled^ than^heir mailers and miftrefles were formerly.

, In their mode of living, fimilar if not greater changes have taken plaqe. Formerly no wheat bread was ufed, excepting by the family of Kiifych, or on extraordinary occafiona^ fuohas marriages, funerals^ or perhapsonafair or marl^et day. Where* as now, it is almoft univerfally ufed, by all denominations^ fit leaft to breakfaft. Oat meal, milk, cheefc, and butter, were the principal food of all, and of many the only fart» Little or no beef, mutton, or veal, was ufisd. Even opu* lent farmers thought it extravagant to fait the carca^ of ^ whole cow, for winter. And the mod refpe£lable traded men never ufed more than « kg of beef, in the year. Se that in the whole village, there were not 1 2 cows kil|ed| and probably not twenty-four in the whole pariflw .Where* as now, every tradcfman has his mart; and every farmer ^fca one, many two or three, in the year. So that, at an a*

Qjl % vcrage,

^oS Statiftical Account

verage, tliere are' i6o killed in the village, and 280 m the par-ifli every year, befides a very confidcraWc niiaip- ber of flieep, calves, and lambs in their feafon.

Tea was not known in this parifh 40 years ago. Whereas now, it is almoft univerfally ufed, and by a great many both in the morning and afternoon.

The employments of the inhabitants are very different from what ihey were. The females formerly devoted by much the greateft part of their time to fpining flax ; tlie reft was fpent in preparing the flax and tow, and work« ing in the fields in fpring, hay time, and harveft. No^tf, fpinning is much difufed, efpecially by the young. Thdr are feverai hundreds of young girls from 8 to 14, 'wlw never fpin at all. Perhaps the greater part of them, ha^e never learned that ufeful art. Tambouring is now tl^ chief employment. Every fpecies of needle work occupies the reft ; excepting a few mothers and younger cbildrefi o£ manufadlurers, who are employed in preparing ihe yam for the loom. Only a few of the farmers wives and Servants are employed in fpinning linen yarm

The males in the town for the moft part were labourets ; though there were a few tradcfmen. Now there are a very Jew labourers, but a great proportion of tradefmen of all de- nominations, efpecially of weavers ; and every perfixn may now find employment.

This may account for a ftriking change that has takea place, and been much obferved by the older clafs, that this generation marries in general much younger than the for* mer; efpecially the tradefmen. Many of the males marry .below 20, and the greateft part below 25 ; whereas former^ •ly they feldom married below 30. The moft part of the femalea marry below ao \ whereas formerly 25 or 30 was the

ordinary

•/ Kilfytb. 309

ordinary age* The reafon of this may be, that a numerous fiunily of children all idle, necefiarily hecame burdienfome ; whereas now every child, male or female, above 6 years of age, can find employment \ and a numerous thriving family is a great fupport to a fober induftrious tradefman*

The common utenfils of a family are very different from

:wbat they were 50 years ago. At that period, there were no tea kettles, tea di(he8, bellows, nor watches, and very iew clocks. Now, every family can fumifli thefe articles. There were few fpioning wheels, dill fewer check reels \ in

,f]act of thefe, the rock and hand reel were ufcd. There were no lint nor barley milns ; of courfe, the lint was drefled M home, in each family ; and the barley bruifed in a ftone mgrtan Every farmer had his own kiln for drying his corns* Ji cofBinon kiln is now ereAed near each miln, where every fanner gets his grain dried at 6d per boll. There were no carts nor wheel carriages of any kind. All the grain was carried on horfeback, or in harveft, upon fledges or cars.

. Indeed the roads were at that time fo deep, narrow, and ragged, that wheel caniages muft have been almoft ufclefs* The line of the roads was generally ftraight, or nearly fc^ over bill and dale ; or if they deviated from this courfe at any time, it was only to avoid fome marfli, or to find a £rpii bottoob They feem to have thought of little elfe, at lea/t they never dreamed of a level road. Now the toads ^e .good, and carts and wheel carriages of all kinds abound.

But the moft remarkable changes have tiiken place in the courfe of 25 years. The introduflion of manufactures, and the great canal, have been the principal caufes of them.

The fpecies of manufaflures moft run upon is the muflin. Some of thefe are only a 1000, others 1700, and even 2000 reed; and of every fpeqies. There are at leaft 350 hands thus employed. SuppoGng each hand io work 3 yards per

day.

5 le - Stat0ical Account

day, that will amount to upwards of 300,000 yards aotinalljiu At 6d per yard> which may be the average^ that will amount to L. 7500, as the total earning of that craft yearly. By this account^ every weaver isTuppofed to earn about L. 21 : 8i at an average. And it is an undoubted (zGt^ that an ordinary tradefman can eafily earn at leaft is a»day all the year rounc!^ making allowance for ordinary avocations. It is faid^ that a (bbefj induftrious, and a^ive hand^ can even earn from 2S to 4$ a- day, or at an average all the year roundj is 6d|> mak- ing reafonable allowances for avocations*

j^. B. The fly fhuttle is commonly ufed^ and allowed tobf a great improvement*

Allowing him to have 3 or 4 fons working wkh hiniy though each fon earn but half the wages of his father^ th^ amount is very confiderablci and may enable a tradefmaa t0 live well ; and at the fame time, provide liberally for bis fa« mily. If he has daughters^ their earnings at tambouring^ may be very nearly at an average, 4d each day} thou^ it is faid, when this branch was firft introducedj they CQuld make from is to 2s a-day. Even now» they (bmetioiea can earn a (hilling. Suppofing the tambourers to be 280j^ their joint earnings at 4d daily, will amount to upwards of L. 1200 fterling ; or nearly L. 5 annually each. But this k doubtltfs a very low eftimate. I fiippofc at an average* of-oli and young, and making every allowance, diey earn at leaft t. 6 each*.

Various^

* About 3 years ago, Titas Harris from London began t3ie cotton mano!^ fa^ory in this parirti. From very fmall beginnings, and fomc fay with no capital^ he, in the courfe of 13 months, raifed the buflnefs to a confiderable heighth, and employed many hands. At one time, he had lo orzi fpinning jennies employed. But either owing to great mifmanagement or misibrtvnt, or perhaps to bolh, Ee inAantly gave way ; by' which mesof > a few IwiUcs vi'

this

9fKilfylK 3ti

Varioui odisr branchfis of manufadures have been InttcM duced here. But excepting the making of fickleB, they have generally failed. At prefent, there are about 5 or 6 hands ©6nftantty employed in this branch. Their earnings are not known ; and in the fituatlon they are at prefent, it would be improper to make them public. They fumifti generally nboot itfpodo^en of Bckles every year $ and fend them all over Scotland, cfpecially to the north.

The making of files was alfo attempted. And it might have fucceededy had it not been owing to accidental circum« ftances, which made it be removed elfewhere. The greatefl! number that ever iJrere employed in this branch, was 8 or 9* And they furniihed about 3000 dozen yearly. ' The ftarch ma:nufa£lidry was at one time begun, and thertf Was a fair profpeft ef fuccefs. But by mifmanagement of ftis/brtune, it was given up.

At preient, there is only one who tans hides in the parifh. But 30 years ago, there were feverals. About that period, there wtfr6 two breweries Hkewife employed ; but they are both given up.

^ It is '^aid, that there are fome marks of the truth of the tradition, that, in Roman Catholic times, the parfon carried

on

tM« pivSQi, ftttd many eHewfiett, wefe deeply {nvolred. It may aflbfd fom^ piiVore of the timM* »nd of the credulity of this nation, or at lead neigk* koorhoody to narrate his hiftory. With his ftaff ia one hand, and his bnndlo in another, he arrived at Kilfyth altogether a Granger. At firft he feemed to have little or 00 command of cafh ; and of courfe little credit. Even for Ibme months, he was looked upon with a jealous eye.

Bat haTing ^ot fome how or other credit, or a cafh acoonnt on fbme com* pany in London, and his bills being honoured in a few inflances at firft, he rapidly tofe in credit, and by addrefs and application to bufinefs, feemed to be in a vety flonriftiing way. But alas f it was at the expencc of many, and \fi the ruin 6f a few. The amoaat of his debts, was L. i|^009.

311 Statfftical Account

on an extenfivc brewery. The Gte of it| and of hU Sack yard which was very large, were only lately dug up.

Road.^lt is not above two years fincc the new line 6f roaj . between Glafgow and Edinburgh by^ Cumbernauld was firft opened. Before that period, the principal road was by Kirkintilloch and Kilfyth ; and it was very much frequented. Our little village, by being a general thorough fare, was always crowded, and had much the air of a bufy thriving place. There is now much lefs buftle and noife, and more of the ap- pearance of dullnefs and defertion ; yet trade is as briflc, and the inhabitants except a few publicans, are as thriving as a| any former period. Two flys, and perhaps lo or la poft chaifes, and double the number of poft horfes, ufed to pafs daily. Now there is not a fmgle fly, feldom a poft chaife ia a week, and perhaps not a poft horfe in a day. The chief ina in Kilfyth, though almoft never clean or commodious, vWas much frequented. The publican ufed to keep one, two, or fometimes four poft chaifes, and from 6 to 12 poft horfes. Now there is neither chaife, nor almoft a poft horfe, to be found. Of courfe, the turnpike gate, which was formerly rented at L. 145, is now fo low as L. 5 c, and. yet the profit to the keeper is but fmail.

The poft-office, befides affording a falary of L. 15 fter. ge- nerally produced between L. 36 and L. 40 yearly. Atpre- fcnt, it yields from L. 38 to L. 40, allowing a falary of L. 1 2 annually to the pofttaaftcr. So that in trade, there is no falling off.

Advcnta;res. ^-^It remains for me to mention the peculiar advantages this parilh enjoys. And happily thcfe arc many and great. The village in point of fituation, will yield to none« It ftands upon a gently rifing ground, a fine dry fand j

foii»

of Kiljytb. 313

foil, in the middle of a rich ftrath, and it ia accellUde at all times, as it is upon the old north road from Glafgow to Edtn« burgh ; and what is highly favourable, it is at equal diftances from Falkirk and Glafgow on the eaft and weft, and from Hamilton and Stirling on the fouth and north. The air ia pure and falubrious. There is abundance of fpring and ruo« ning water, with both of which the town iscopioufly fupplied; And there are in the immediate vicinity, a variety of fitua<* tions verj favourable for a bleachfield or printficld, and a* bundance of water-falls for machinery of aloioft any Gze. La one place erpecially,a fall may be obtained of nearly 30 f<?et per- pendicular, within 300 yards of a good coal, near abundance of fine lime, and upon a beautiful poft of free ftone, where the ftones for the building might be dug out of the foundation* This is within a quarter of a mile of the village, and what is more, within lefs than an Englifli mile of the great canal* So that there is an open eafy acccfs to the German and Atlantic oceans, and by them to the whole world. This coni^eration is of great confequence to a manufa£turing village. It gives us at once, all the advantages of an inland and fea port town combined. For we can export our manufactures to any port, and import grain or other commodities from any quarter o£ the globe, with equal cafe as at Greenock, or Grangemouth. The rich abundance of the carfes of Falkirk, Stirling, and Gowry, and of the fertile lands of Lothian, Carrick, and Ireland, is brought to our doors, at as eafy and cheap a ratct as if they were our neighbouring pariflxes, within 6 or 10 miles.

Thefe advantages have induced a great many new fcttlers to

come among us. And Sir Archibald Edmonftone, Bkrt. of

Dunbreath, and proprietor of the eftate of Kilfyth, with a

fpirit truly liberal and generous, has given them every en-

VoL. XVIII. R r couragcment,

3 1 4 Statijlical Account

couragementj and has within theie 8 years fened a complete new town.

Dlfadvantages. — But while we enjoy many advantages, and are abundantly feniible of it, we labour under a few peculiar dlf- advantages, though 1 truft we are grateful to heaven that they are fo few and fmall. A few of thcfe difadvantages I (hall fliortly enumerate.

ift, It is doubtlefs a confiderable lofs, that none of the principal heritors refide in the parifli. All clafles and denomi- nations! but efpecially the poor, muft feel this. The tender nurfing hand of a liberal landlord, is to them, a mighty blefling*

2d, But it is not only thofe who feel the lofs. The pariih at large, but efpecially the town, have caufe to regret, that there is not within the pari(h a fingle jullice of the peace, commif- Coner of fupply, or magiftrate, nor even a baron bailiff : fo that the fniaileil petty offence, or outrage, cannot be redref- fed without applying to fome juftice of fome neighbouring pariih.

And what is ftill worfe, every idle, worthlefs vagrant, who can find (belter no where elfe, is apt to refort to this as a place pi refuge, where he may (kuik about and pilfer with impunity* Amazing crouds of fturdy beggars infeft us at all times, efpecially in harveft, when all the males are at work in the (ield. At that time they hot only crave a rea- fonable alms, but often enforce their unreafonable dc* mand, by frightening the peaceable and induftrious inhabi* tants. If there be any evil which calls for redrefs in this place, this is one ; and to redrefs it is furely not impoflible.

3d, Ic is likewife a lofs to this parifh, that we have no week* ly market. The peafant and manufacturer, whether in the town or country muft feel this.

4tb, The farmers labour under a few inconveniences. But

they

1

iff Kil/ytb. 3,5

they are only few^ and much more than counterbalanced^ by the many peculiar adrantages they enjoy.

Charaffirs rf the LibaHtants.-^The chandlers of the inha- bitants of this parifli, are as various as their countenances ; as in erery mixed fociety, the good and the bad.are blended together.

To fpeak in general terms, however, they are pun£iual in their attendance on religious ordinances, decent and devout in their external appearance, and regular in their manners. They are fober, aflive, and induftrious ; open, candid, and even generous in their dealings ; loyal to their fovereign, obedient to all lawful authorities ; and they iludy to live peaceable and quiet lives, in all godlinefs and honefty.

Though divided into various fe£ts, they are to a man fteady friends to the proteftant perfuafion, and live together in the unity of the fpirit, and the bond of peace.

Upwards of one half of the inhabitants can trace back their parentage, for many generations, all natives of this parifh. Independent in their circumftanccs, and of a more indepen- dent fpirit, they have a high fenfe of honour, and a great re- gard to charafler.

The above will by many be deemed a flattering pi£lure ; and I dare fay, I may be accufed of partiality. My only plea is, that I have been born and bred among.ihem ; upwards of 500 of them are my blood relations. For this caufe, I am perhaps better acquainted with their feelings and fentiments than any man, and though partial, I truft I am too upright to flatter them. On the contrary, I mud acknowledge, that a- mong the rifing generation, there are many lefs regular in their manners than their fathers.

I have many reafons to be attached to this parifli. Where*

R r z ever

3x6 Stati/lkal .dccouni

erer I earn my eye, I meet with the friends or compinions oE my youth. Tenderly alive to all they feel, and all they fear^ I cannot but have a deep concern, and ardent defire, for their temporal and eternal interefts. Happy (hall I be, if living or ^ying, I can be the huihble inftrument of turning even one of them to righteoufnefs *•

* There is s Tery cnriois coUeAton of oiM panfaflientf in tht$ pftrilii. Some of them go nearif as far back as the Reformatioa. They priBcspaUy refer to the affairs of the church, being charters or grants of lands ami priTilegesy from certain abbeys to certain livings. Among the reft are ibme from Cam* ~ buikenneth near Stirling.

They might afford matter of much turioiity, perhaps fumilh {bme important Information.

NUMBER

ef Kippeu. 317

NUMBER XIL PARISH OF KIPPEN.

(C0UNTI£S OF PBRTH AND STIRLINQ.)

Bj the Rev. Mr John Campbe^-i;.,

Name.

THOUGH many names of places in this country are un« doubtedly of Gaelic origin, yet it is diiBcult to procure any etymology of the name of the paii(h, that may be con* fidered as perfe£lly fatisfaAory. Ceap in Gaelici is nearly of (he fame import with the Englifli word cape, or promontory, and refembles it in found t From this the word Kippen is faid to be derived ; and the name is fuppofed to be defcriptive of the Ctvation of the village, which ftands on an eminence, near the point of the hill, which terminates at Boquhan. The village has exaAly this appearance, when viewed from the north weft, as from Cardrofs, or the oppofite braes of Monteath.

Situatian and Zimi//.— The parifli of Kippen lies within the counties of Perth and Stirling ; under the ecclefiaflical jurifdi£lion of the Prefbytery of Dunblane, and Synod of Perth and Stirling* It is bounded on the north by the river

31 8 Stati/Ucal Account

Forth, which feparates it from the pariflies of Kilmadocky Kincardine, and Port. On the eaft, it inarches with Gar* gunnock; on the fouth, with Balfron; and on the weft^ with the pari(h of Drymen. The road from Stirling to Dun- barton pafles through this parifli for 7 miles; it is fnore» however, than 8 miles in length, between the diftant extre- mities. Its breadth is unequal ; generally from 2 to 3 miles ; at the middle of the parifh, it is nearly 4 miles broad*

Boundaries of Stirling and Perth Shires.-^One might bare expe£^ed that the river Forth, which forms a natural limit to this parifh for feveral miles, (hould have alfo ferved as a boundary to the finre of Perth. This county however, in two or three places, pafles over this natural limit, and be* comes indented in the county of Stirling ; fo that about one third part of the parifii of K»ppen, lies in Perihihire, the other two thirds in Sttrlingihire. Such an irregularity feems now furprifing. But it is well known, that ancient proprie- tors had influence to get fuch portions of their eftates as they chofe, disjoined from thofe counties within which they were locally fituated, and connected with fuch other counties, as better fuited their convenience. Other inftances of this kind, and more remarkable than in the cafe before us, might eaCly be adduced in fupport of this obfervation *•

General AfpeB of the Countryn^Trom fome of the higher grounds, an ample and variegated profpe£i prefents itfelf to the eye of the fpeAator. At the head of the ftrath, (lands

the

* Some lands in the parifiies of Bonhill and Kilmaronoock, which formerly belonged to the laird of Gleneagles, and of which he is ftill fuperior, wete once cpnneaed with tlic ihirc of Perth, though they lie at a confidcrable dif^ ta^jicc from tbc lin^ts of that county.

of Ktppeti. 31P

die houCe of Gartmore, commanding a View of the whole plain beloWf which extends eaftward for 20 or 30 miles* The houfc and policy of Cardrofs, a few miles farther down the country, greatly enliven the landfcape. The carfcj a rich and beautiful valley, exhibits an inclofed and well cul- tivated country, embellifhed with numberlefs farms, and gentlemcn'9 feats ; and in fummer and autumn, often loaded with luxuriant crops. So rich and extenfive a fcenery 19 rarely to be feen. The duiky fpots which are covered with mofs, pleafe by contrail ; and the imagination is gratified by anticipating the period, when the mofs (hall be cleared a#ay, and its room occupied by the ufeful produ£tions ef the earthy and the habitations of men. Stirling caftle, and the rocks of Craig-forth and Abbeys-craig, appear on the eaft) like iflandi emerging out of the carfe. The braes of Monteath rife on the northern fide, like an amphitheatre. And a rugged range of the Grampian mountains, ftretching from Benlomond to the Ochills, encompafles the whole. Thus the eye is at once gratified, with a profpeft of rude and cultivated nature, and with a furvey of the noble efFeAs of human induftry and art.

Cjf^.— The parifh of Kippen is divided by nature into the carfe and dijfieid. The former confifls of the level ground that lies on the fouth fide of the Forth, between that river and the rifing grounds. It is of unequal breadth, from half a mile to a mile, and in fome places more ; and forms a part of that extenfive plain, which reaches from Gartmore on both fides of the river, as far eaftward as Borrowftounnefs. In different places in this parifh, it is covered with mofs to the extent of 300 or 400 acres.

Af^.— There fcems reafon to believe, tliat the greater part 2 of

5^0 Stati/Hcal Jccount

of the plain eaftward from Stirling, has at one period beett covered with mofs ; and that the arable lands on both fides of the river, have been recovered from the mofs, by dint of la- bour, in a courfe of ages. It is probable that the whole of this extenGve plain, had been previoufly under water. %ellsj both feparate and colledied into beds, are found throughout the carfe ; and it is not long fince filh bones of a confiderable £ze, have been met with in the neighbourhood of Stirling* The mafs of clay would naturally be accumulated and levelled by the operation of the tides. The period in which this part of the country was under water, muft be very remote, as oa this fubje£t both hiftory and tradition are equally filent* After the receflion of the waters, the fame fpace muft have been occupied with trees and flirubs. Thefe would be pro* duced by the fame caufes, which, in procefs of time> covet ground that is left without culture, with various vegetable produdiions. A forefl: would at lad appear \ and by the fall and putrefa£lion of this foreft, the mofs, in its prefent ftate, has unqueftionably been formed. Oaks of a great fize, are ftill found on the fubjacent earth, where the mofs has been cleared away. Many of thefe are in good prefervation ; when expofed to the air for fome time, they become hard i and when put to ufe, prove very durable. They are rarely ferviceable for furniture \ but fuit very well for roof timber,. ftobs, and bridges over mofs ditches. Other treesj fuch a« birch, alder, black- faugh, rowan, hawthorn, and hazle, are alfo found ; hazle nuts are frequently met with. The trunks* or bodies of thefe trees, are generally confumed; but the roots remain. It is natural to enquire, how this great foreft fhould happen to be overthrown. A hurricane of wind oc- curs at firft, as a poffible caufe of this great effeft. But in this cafe it is obvious, that the trees muft either have been broken about the middle, or torn up by the roots, and would

be

of Kippen. 321

be found uniformly lying in the direftion of the current. But the roots arc generally found (landing in the clay; the trunks fcrparated from them a little above the ground, lying in all dire£lions ; and fometimeS| on the oaks particularly, the marks of an ax or hatchet have been traced. The teftimony of fereral hiftorians of credit, as well as other authentic mo- numents, lead us to a difcovery of the authors of this grrat catadrophe. When the Romans puflied their conquefts into Britain, our ancedors, the Britons and Caledonians, were for- ced by the viftorious legions to retire to their hills, or fecure thcmfelves in thofe cxtenfive forefls, with which the ifland then abounded. From thefe ftrong holds they fallied forth as opportunity offered, and by their frequent incurHons, not only annoyed the armies of their conquerors, but enriched themfelves with booty. From the fpeech of Galgacus, given by Tacitus in his life of Agricola, it appears that the Rom ant had been much employed in cutting down forefts and draining morafles, with a view to fecure themfelves againft fuch pre- datory attacks from the natives. But to put an e(Fe£luaI flop to thefe depredations, in the laft expedition of the Emperor Severus, general orders were iflued to cut down all the forefts throughout this part of the ifland. This fcrvice was per- formed by the Roman legions, aflifted by thofe natives whom they had been able to fubjugate. Herodian* concifely mentions this fact. Dion Cafliusf, whofe account is more particular. Vol. XVIII. S s informs

• Lib. III. c. 48.

t Xiphilin. ex Dione, lib. 39. The paflage relative to this fubjcft in the abridger of Dion, is curious and interefting. ** Qnam Sercrus, quum yeilet om- nrm in (nam potcftatem redigere, tngrcfliis eft in Calcdoniam, eamque dum pertranfiret, habirit ipazixnanegotia, quod fyivas czderet, et loca aitaperfo- deret, quodque paludes obrueret aggere, et pontes in flumlnibus faceret. Nullum enim pra*Iium ge(T:t, oeque copias hodium inftnifhis vidlt ; a qu'ibus

propone bantur

322 Stattjlical Account

informs us, that in this expedition, the Romans loft no lefs than 50,000 men* We need not wonder then at thcr fpeed and fuccefs, with which this great undertaking was accom-* pliflied *. In the mofs of Kincardine, a Roman way, 12 feet wide, and regularly formed by trees or logs of wood laid a- crofs each other, is K\\ to be traced f. And a Roman camp kettle was found in the year 1768, in the lands of Mr Ram« fay of Ochtertyre, which has been prefented by him to the Antiquarian Society in Edinburgh. Such are the grounds on which it is believed that the foreft in this part of the coun-^ try was cut down by the Romans ; moft probably in the ex- pedition of Severus, A. D. 207, whilft Donald L reigned in Caledonia. He was the firft Scotti(h prince (according to Buchanan J), who embraced Chriftianity. The overthrow of this foreft would naturally interrupt the courfe of thofc va- rious ftreams wliich formerly ran through the valley. This

body

proponebantur confulto oves boTefque, ut quum ea ooftri raperent, ac lo&ge de via decUnarent, facile opprimerentur. Ad hare noflris aqux valdc obeiant, difperfisque infidis parabantur : quumque noii pofTent iter facerc, occidebantur a fuis, ut ne ab hoftibus caperentur. luque mortui funt e noftris ad quinqua- gint* inillia. Neque tamcn deftitit Serenis, quoufque ad extremam infalam ▼cnit,

• Modern hiftorians, relying on thefc authorities, agree in their accounts of the tranfaftions of the Romans at this period in Britain. Bachan. Rer. Scot. Hift. Lib. IV. c. 37. Henry's Hid. of Great Brit. Vol.1, thap. 1. Encyc. Brit. edit. 3. Vol XII. p. 388, under the word Moss.

t In Mofs Logan in this parifh, a way has lately been difcovered, which from odl accounts, in refpeA of breadth and conftru£lion,eza£Uy rcfcmbles that in the mofs of Kincardine. But as the in formation concerning it was received only fiore this account was drawn up, no opportunity has yet offered of examining it fo purticularly, as to authorize a more decided opinion refpe^ng its prigin.

\ Hift. lib. IV. 36.

f/ Kippttt. 3Z3

body of ftagnant water, fwelled from time to time by rains, and melted fnow, and rimlets defcending from the heights, would continue to increafe till it became fo confiderablc as to open a pafiage for itfelf to the eafl. And thus the valley, at that period, muft have exhibited the appearance of a vail mo* raft. The wood and leaves, and other vegetable fubftaiices, all rotting together, would in time accumulate, and form the great body of the mofs. The confolidation of this mafs of corrupted vegetables would leave room for the water above it, to run off by fuch channels as it could find or form. By fuch a procefs in a feriesof ages, it is natural to imagine, that this mofs has been brought into the date in which it now appears*

Cafiing of Peats.^^Tht foil underneath the mofs is a (Irong rich day. The mofs is generally from 8 to 10 feet in depth, and confifts of different fubdances, regularly difpofcd in ftrata, as follows* Immediately above the clay is a ilratum of fat brown earth, from 9 to 12 inches in depth, fuppofed to have been formed by the incorporation of the clay with the conti* guous mofs, and which feems to have been the vegetable mold, covering the clay when the foreil was cut down. The next bed lying immediately above the former, is the great body of the mofs, which confifts of various vegetable fubdances, cor- rupted, compared, and matured by age. This is annually cut fjr peats, and fupplies moft families in this country with fuel through the year. The upper ilratum is a light and fpon* gy fubftance, much paler in the colour than the bed of pe^t mob. It feems to be formed chiefly of decayed leaves and flalks of heath, bent grafs, and other plants with which the furface of the mofs is overgrown, but not yet full^ciently cor- rupted fo as to be formed into mofs. Of this upper (Iratum, 3 or 4 feet muft always be pared away, which is generally done

3^4 Statiflical Account

in winter, and thrown by the fpade into the pit out of which the peats were taken in the preceding year. It then forms the fpreadfield^ or ground upon which the new peats are laid out to be dried. As the whole of it cannot be thus difpofcd of, the remainder is by means of little canals formed for the purpofe, floated down into the Forth. The peat$ are always caft as foon as poflibie after feed- time, and are carried home in the courfe of the fummer or harveft. It was a remarkable proof of the uncommon wetnefs of the feafon 1 792, that few- peats were got home that year, but remained on the ^read- field till next fummer* This circum fiance had not happened before in the memory of man, and neceflarily fubjc&ed poorer families to very great incoaTcnitnce.

Clearing away of Mofs, — As the carfe foil is fo valuable, it muft be an object of importance to the proprietors, to have the fuperjacent mofs cleared away*. Thofe portions of land, which in this par ifti are recovered from the mofs, are fuch as lie under old fpreadfieids, from which the peats have formerly bcf n taken. This opeiation is generally performed in winter. The water which comes down from the higher grounds in burns or rivulets contiguous to the mofs, is by means of fmall duds or canals introduced into the fpreadfield which is intended to be put away. The fpreadfield having been previoufly inter- fered with thcfe canals, of a proper depth and width, its fub- ftance is, by many hands, thrown into thcfc when water can be had in plenty, and thus carried down into the river. Much yet remains to be done, before the arable land is procured. About a foot of mofs, mixt with many fragments of trees and

roots,

* Mr Drumm^nd of Blair-Drummond, carries on an nndertaktog of this nature on an extenfive Tcaie. See an intercAing account of the procciji em* ployed for that purpofe ki Encyc. firit. 3d. edit. Vol. XII. under theaiticls Moti of Kincardine.

of Kippen. 325

roots, fome fmall, many very large, muft be digged up. la fome places this operation muft be repeated oftener than once. Such of tbefe fiagments as are unfit for any ufeful purpofe^ are burnt when dry, generally in the months of May and June. The a(heS) with what remains of the mofs, and brown earth formerly mentioned, when judicioufly mixt with the clay, form together one of the beft foils. Some pains are alfo re* quifite to level the inequalities, which is beft done at firft, to to prevent the water ftom ftanding in the hollows. The clear* ing away of the fpreadfield was formerly done for L. 40 Scots, or L. 3 : 6 ; 8 fter. per acre \ but Gnce wages have increafcd^ it will coft from L. 5 to L. 6 fter. In thi& manner in a courfe of years, aconfiderable quantity of land has been gained from the mofs, worth from 15s. to 20s. fter. per acre. The carfe foil, in favourable feafons, produces rich crops of every kind of grain common in this country \ particularly wheat, beans and peafe, and oats ; barley is not fo certain a crop.

Hotf^A.— Befides the mofs, and the land recovered from it, there is along the banks of the Forth, a narrow ftrip of haugh or holm, which is very fertile, and equally adapted to tillage or pafture.

Drjfield. — From the carfe, the lands rife at firft abruptly, and then very gradually for about a mile, or more in fome places; continuing flat for a corfiderable fpace, they again decline cowards the fouth. This elevated part of the paiifti, is called the drjfieldi a term which is by no means defcriptive of the nature of the foil, but is ufed merely to diftinguifh it from the lower grounds or carfe. Where it firft fprings from, the carfe, it is marked by all thofe appearances which the banks of rivers that have been defer ted by them exhibit. The interjacent valley between this parifti, and the green

hills

}

3^6 Statiftical Account

hills of Boquhan and Glinns, is very narrow at the eadera extremity. Towards the weft, the country is more open. From the fouthern boundary, moft of the baronies in this pariih are laid ofi, parallel to eabh other, down to the fides of the Forth. The dryfield of Kippcn forms the greater part of that hill, which, commencing at the bridge of Boquhan, and extending through the whole of this pariih, and part of the pariflies of Balfron and Drymen, terminates about a mile weftward from the village of Balfron. The land which lies on its northern declivity, forms the main body of the pari/h of Kippen, and exhibits a pleafing view of fruitful fields^ generalfy well inclofed, and occafionally interfe£\ed with glens 9nd rivulets*

Moor of Kipprn. — Towards the fummit and fouthern decli- vity of the hill, on which it hath been obferved, that the greater part of this parifh is fituated, there is an cxtenfive moor, called the moor of Kippen, which runs the whole length of the pariih, and comprehends alfo part of Balfron. On the fouth fide, the ground which is lighter, and not fo good as that on the north fide of the hill, (lopes gradually for half a mile or more, and is terminated by a fmall rivulet caU led the Pow of the Glinns, which divides Kippen from BaU fron. This water runs eaftward, till it falls into the burn of Boquhan,* which again forms the boundary between Kippen and Gargunnock, and empties itfelf into the Forth, at the bridge of Frew. Another fmall ftream, weft from the for* mer, takes a different courfe, and runs weftward into the water of Endrick, which finally goes into the Clyde. Under the moffes in the moor of Kippen, are found fome, oaks and other trees, though not fo large as thofe in the low mofs on the fides of the Forth. It is probablf that the whole dryfield liai been covered with wood, moitly oak ; for on the fides o£ 2 thQ

9f Kippen. 327

the glens^ through which the water coUcftcd in the moor runs down into the Forth, the trees grow thicki and within thefe 50 years, ftocks of oaks with young flioots growing from them have been feen in different places : thefe however, are now rooted out, and the fields cleared for the plough.

S/0;frj.— The moor abounds with red and white free-ftone. On the fouthern boundary lime-ftone is alfo found. This lime-ftone, containing a confiderable portion of fand, fuits the carfc well, but is not thought fo proper for the dry- field.

iflifcf.— In the moor, there is a fmall lake or refervoir of water called Loch-Ieggan^ about a mile in circumference. A fmall dream ifiiies from it, which turns feveral mills* In the middle of the loch, there is a cairney or heap of ftones, fuppofed to be the ruins of an old houfe, of which however, no authentic accounts can now be obtained. There are no fifli in the loch, but a few perches of a fmall fize. Trouts are to be had in the feveral rivulets which run into the Forth : (he burn of Boquhan affords them in greateft plenty.

River Forth. — The river Forth has but a mean appearance in this part of the country. It is confined within narrow and deep banks, and except in a few phces, its current is fo very flow, as hardly to be perceptible. Froni Gartmore to Stir- ling, a line of 20 miles, the fall of the river is faid not to exceed, on an average, a foot in the mile. The banks of the Forth, are from 10 to 20 feet ; and in fome places more from the furface of the bank, to the bottom of the river. Many large trees are (till found in the bottom \ and fome appear with their ends proje£ling from the banks, as the water walh* c$ away the clay. They arc found at different depths, from

6

3 28 Statijiical Account

6 to 20 feet below the furfacc of the bank ; and in all direc- tions, fomc lying horizontally, others (landing almoft upright. The river contains both pike and perch. In former times, falmon ufed to come up in abundance, but fincc the moflcs began to be cleared away, they have not been taken in any confidcrable quantity. There are two bridges over the Forth in this pariih; one. near Cardrofs built in 1772, the other at Frew, built in 1783 •, both at prefent are in good repair.

Natural Curtofitics. — " The burn of Boquhan, which, dc- *' fcending from the rock of Ballochlcam, makes little im- ** preffion on the ftrata of lime-ftonc or iron, meets at laft *• with the red fand-ftone, through which it has opened a ** paflage, and wrought its foft materials into a number of " curious fliapes, fuch as the wells and caldrons of the Dc- <

** von. It is yet remembered, when it burft through a large ** projeflion of the rock, and threw the mill with all its ap- " pendages, on the other fide of the bank •." — In the garden of Broich, there is a yew tree, of a regular conical form, whofe branches (hooting regularly from the trunk, with their extremities falling down to the ground, exhibits the appear- ance of a large umbrella to thofe who (land under its (hade. The circumference of the trunk about 2 feet above the ground, is 10 feet \ height of the trunk to the lowed row of branches, 9 feet J height of the tree, about 50 feet; circumference of the circle overfpread by the lower branches, 140 feet. It is fuppofed to be 200 or 300 years old ; and though it may not vie with the yew of Fortingal, muft dill be allowed to be a beautiful objeft.

Antiquities and Hijiory. — ^The names and fituations of feve^ TiJ places in the parilh, plainly (hew that in former times, they

have ' • Gen. Campbell's notes, page x8.

of Kippen. 329

have been places of ftrcngth. Thus the cattle of Arnfindlay, of which no veftigcs now remain ; the tower of Garden, part of whichy was (landing 20 or 30 years ago -, the remains of the houfc and cattle of Arnprior, may ttill be traced. The houfe of Broich too, feems to have been furroundcd with a rampart and foffc. A fmall green mound on the eattern con- fines of the lands of Buchlyvie, appears to have been a tumu* lus. Some human bones, inclofcd in flags of ftone, were lately found in it ; but there is no tradition which gives any account of its ofigin. — Some years ago, an urn containing afties and bones, was found in the Cattle-hill of Dafticr* There are feveral fmall heights in this parifli, to which the name Kelr* is applied, which bear the marks of fome ancient military work, viz. Kcir-hill of Glcritirran, Keir-hill of Da- flicr, Keir-brae of Drum, Keir-know of Am- more, and Keir-brae of Garden. On the fummit of each of thefe, there is a plain of an oval figure, furrounded with a rampart, which in moft of them ttill remains entire. The Peel of Gar' den, (on which there is a work of the fame kind,) is lefs ele- vated in point of fituation ; it rifes but a little above the carfe* The inclofure however is confiderably larger than that of the Keirs; and the rampart and ditch, in refpefl of form and appearance, have fuflfcred lefs from the injuries of time. None of thefe arc of fufficient extent to have ever admitted of a regular encampment. The circumference of the rampart on the Keir-hill of Daflicr, (whi^h is neither the hrgeft nor the ftnallett, and the only one that has been mcafur^rd,) does not exceed 130 yards* Various opinions have been entertain- ed concerning thefe works. The country people fay that they were Piftifli forts. A different conje£lure fuppofcs Vol. XVIII. T t them

• •« Keir, Cacr, Chefter, Caftra, arc faid to be words of a like import/'"— Gkn. Caupbell's notes, page 17.

330 Statijlical Account

them to have been temporary forts, or ftations erededby the Romans, for giving fignals, depofiting provifions and ftores^ and proteding their pioneers from the attacks of the Caledonians, whilft employed in cutting down the great foreft in the plain below. This conjc£lure, it is imagined, receives fome fupport from the confideration, that places of a (imilar form are found in other parts of the country, into which the Romans are known to have penetrated. Others^ unwilling to admit their pretenfions to fo high antiquity, believe them to have been formed by the feudal proprietors; for fome purpofes of fccurity or convenience, which it may be difficult now to difcover. It is furely matter both of fur- prife and regret, that no certain account can now be obtain- ed of the origin and ufe of thefe works ; which apparently have formed a part of fome extenfive fyftem, the develope* ment of which might fcrve to illuftratc the ancient ftate and hiftory of our country *.— A difpute having arifen be- tween

* There Teems to be a confiderable refemblance between thefe forts, and the forts of the Firbolgs, of which an account is given in Grofe's Antiquities of Ireland. The pailage alluded to, is extracted from that work in the Monthly Review, for December 1794, page 394 ; and was not fcen by the writer of this account, till after it was prepared for the preis. The infei^ tion of the pallage may perhaps be gratifying to fome readers. ** The forts '* common in this peiiod, will be feen to be perfectly confident with the rude '* Aate of the military art among the Flrbolgs ; though very fuperior to thofe '* of the Celtes. The Irifh, who retained the cuftoms of the latter, Cam- " brenfis tells us, had np caftles ; their woods ferved them for camps, and *' their marlhes for ditches. However, they learned from the Firbolgs, to *' take refuge on hills, as Cxfar fays the Britons did. Thefe were conical " rifing grounds, which were encircled with a fingle, double, or triple eo- " trcnchment, and which afforded ample prote^on ; fuch were the in6nite ** number of high round forts every where to be met with, and by Cam* " brenfis, exprcfsly afcribcd to the Oflmen. Thefice of thefe earthen forts, " varied with the number and power of the clan ; fome are but z8 or a# " yards in diameter, others cover as many acres,"

qf Kippen. 331

tWjcen the inhabitants of the baronies of Glentirran and Am- prior, refpeAing the courfe of the dream th^t iflues from Loch-leggani the parties met at a place near the loch, deter- mined to decide the conteft by arms. In this affray, feyeral perfons were killed ; from which circumftance, the place bears the name of Bloody mirts. King James V. who then refided at Stirling, having taken cognifance of this matter, ordered the ftream to be taken from both, and turned into the channel, which it ftill retams. He likewife ordered the mw mill to be built, which, being confidcrcd as a royal mill, pays a feparate cefc to this day— During the arbitrary reigns of Charles II. and James 11, the inhabitants of this parifli fuffered greatly from the perfecution and tyranny which then prevailed. Mr Ure of Shirgarton, a gentleman of diAinguifli- ed piety and zeal, underwent various hardfhips, the memo- ry of which IS ftiU preferved by tradition in the neighbour- hood*.— In the year 1676, the Sacrament of the Lord's Sup- per was difpenfed in the nighty to a very numerous meeting at Arnbeg f • The minifters who afiifted in difpenfing that ordinance, were Meflrs. John Law, after the Revolution minifter at Edinburgh, Mr Hugh Smith at Eaftwood, and Mr Matthew Crawford. — A chapel formerly flood near the eaftern boundary of the parifh, befide the old manGon-houfe of Glentirran. The remains of it were feen within thefe few years. It is faid to have been built for the accommodation of the pariflies of Gargunnock and Kippen, in confequence of the indulgence granted by King James. A Mr Barclay then officiated as minifter-— In former times, the highland

T t ^ clans

♦ Many particulars rcfpc^ing this worthy gentleman, arc recorded by Mr Wodrow, in his Hiftory of the fufferings of the Church of Scotland \ feo efpecially, Vol. ii. page a6o.

f Wod row's Hiftory, Vol. i. page 4x6*

33» ^Statijiical Account

'cUnSf whic;ji were Gtuated on the borders of the low country, were accuftomed to fubfift in a great meafure, by rapine and plunder. In the year 169(1 a P^i'^T ^^ ^^tiz free*booters ▼ifitcd this parifli, to the great terror and- lofs of the country. They were commanded by old Rob Roy^ a robber by profef-- faon, who pretended to have a commiflion from ELing James '' to plunder the rebel whigs." The peaceable inhabitants were obliged to flee for their (afety, and leave their property to the rapacity of this banditti, who feized upon cattle, vic« tual, furniturci &c. and carried away as much as they were able. Only one man, fefvant to Sir James Livingfton, was killed upon that occafion* This a£l of depredation was re- xnembered by the fathers of feveral perfons flill living, and is known by the name of the herrijhip • of Kippen.~-In the year 1745, the rebel army palled the Forth by the ford of Frew on their way to Stirling. The inhabitants were obliged to furnifh provifions for the fupply of their immediate necefli* ties ; but their march was not marked by any other a£ls of violence.

Population. -^It is probable, that the pariQi of Kippen was more populous in former times, than it is at prefent. The enlargement of the farms, neceiTarily occafioned the fall of the cotteries, which afforded fubfiftence to many families. In confequence of the encouragement offered by the manu- facturing companies, lately eftablifhed at Balfron, many fa- milies as well as. individuals have removed to that village* A confiderable decreafe has taken place within thefe laft 10 years.

In 1755, ^^^ number of inhabitants, according to Dr . Webfter's account, amounted to

In

• From the Scots word Icrry^ to rob or plunder.

o/Kippen. 333

In 1764, the number of examinable perfons, is ftated to have been 1450, which is nearly the fame as at prefent, ,

In 1783} the number of families was 446; of foub J940.

In X793> the number of families was 399.

— — — Males 847, females 9305 in all 1777 foul**

Under 10 years, 343 From 40 to 50, 180

From 10 to 20, 399 From 50 to 60, 145

From 20 to 30, 325 From 60 to 70, 128

From 30 to 40, 190 From 70 to 80, 48

— — From 80 to 90, 19

1257

520 Total 1777.

Dtftinguijbed according to their Religious Pcrfuaftom.

Of the Eftabliflied Church, . - ,266

Antiburgher Scccders, «. . ^^t

Burgher, do, - - - ^

Cameronians, , - . . ,^

£pifcopalianS|

3

>777

Tubk

334

Statical Account

7ah!e of Marriages y BaptifmSy and Burials in this Pari/b^ for the following years*

Tears. Marriages. From 1700101709 incluf. 104

I7I0— -1719

170

1710— 17».> -

183

1730 — 1739

18K

1740— 1749*

1750— 1759

•

1760 — 1:69 -

158

177^—1779

I7»

1780— 1789

I6i

1790

18

1791 .

II

179* -

15

Baptifms.

Males. Fern Total, »19 194 4»3

193 ai4 4P7

194 167 361 493 *5l 544 X99 178 377 229 160 389 14a 272 514 »7I 237 508 %\% 238 480

»3 »» 45

19 '8 37 *o 23 43

Burials.

Year^. Males. Fern Tot

1783 3 4 7

1784 I» 7 19

1785 14 14 ^8 Z786 8 2 10

1787 24 10 32

1788 t8 16 34 X789 8 6 14

1790 4 10 14

1791 8 14 at» 179» 7 xo 17

In 1792.3, there were in the parifh of Kippen, 24 hcri* tors» of whom the greater part do not refide in the parifh ; I e(lablilhed minifter, i antiburgher minifter, i phyfician, I writer, % fchoolmafters, 100 farmers, 88 farming men fcr- Tants, 8 millers, 6 maltmen, 4 licenfed diftiilersy i excife officer, 10 merchants, 37 weavers, 5 journeymen do, 14 appren« tices, 1 flocking weaver, 8 wrights> 3 do. journeymen, 6 do. apprentices, 2 wheelwrights, 4 hecklers, 6 mafons, i do. apprentice, 10 fhoemakers, 2 journeymen do. 2 do. appren- tices, I faddler, i journeyman do. 2 tanners, 1 journeyman do. 4 coopers, 14 taylors, 2 journeymen do. 2 do. appren* tices, 8 fmiths, 2 do. apprentices, 1 dyer, x baker, 2 but*

chers.

• Chafm in the regifter of Marriages from 1745 to 1758 ; and the regif. ter of Baptifms feems to have been irregularly kept during the g,reater pv^ •f that perioi.

ofKippen. 335

chcrs, 8 publican^ 7 carters, 4 flicriSofficcrs, 47 day labourers.

Parijb Regtfter^ — ^Thcre are no records extant previous to the commencement of the prefent century. From 1700 to 1745, the regifter of marriages and baptifms appears to have been kept with confiderable accuracy. For the 12 following years, the regifter of marriages feems to have been entirely negle£led. From that period too, many parents who had joined the fcccflion, neglcAed to get their children's names enrolled in the pariOi regifter. For this reafon, the regifter^ efpccially of baptifms, cannot be confidered as exhibiting a complete enumeration of the children born in the parifli from that time downward *. It may alfo be obferved, that as the names of parties enrolled with a view to proclamation of banns, when they happen to reHde in different parifhes, are regiftered in both the parifhes to which they fcvcrally belong ; this circumftance muft make the number of marriages appear greater than it is in reality. And therefore in calculating the whole population of Scotland, fo far as regard is had to the authority of parochial regifters, it may be laid down as a maxim, that the number of marriages will upon the whole exceed, and that of baptifms fall flioft of the truth. In this, as well as in moft country pariflies, no account of burials was kept till within thefe few years ; nor can the regifter of thefe be confidered as perfectly accurate.

Climate f Healthy Difeafes. — The climate is wet, on account, probably, of the vicinity of the hills, and the prevalence of wefterly winds. A regifter of the weather was kept for many

ycary

* Of late years, care has bee a taken to render the regiflerof baptifins 99re complete than formerly.

33^ Statijikal Account

years by Dr Leckie^ a gentlcmnn of intelligence and obferva- tion in this parifh, but he found *' only a feries of capricious ** changes, incapable of being claflTcd orconne£ied, fo as to ^^ form any ufeful rule, or any obfervations oti the weather *< or feafons that can be depended upon in this country." The climate though wet, does not appear to be unhealthy^ which may be attributed perhaps to the frequency of high winds, which prevent the vapburs from becoming ftagnant. The number of aged perfons at prefent in the parifli appearsr from the preceding tables ; within the few laft years, two perfons have died near the age of lOo. — A picafant and un- common fpectacle of health and indudry is feen in this village; an old man, his fon, and grandfon, all fmiths, of one name, dwelling in the houfe in which they were bom, and continu- ing to follow their occupation in the fame (hop from-day to day. The inhabitants of this part of county are not fubje£l to any difeafe that can be confidered as peculiar to the climate. The ague is faiJ in former times to have prevailed in the carfc. It is now extremely rare, at lead in the parifli of Kippen* Epidemical difeafes are not frequent . In the fpring months of years 1785 and 1787, a pkuretic fever prevailed, which carried off a number of people. The year 1788 was fatal to fome old pcopld and children. Of the uncommon mortality in thefe years, the opennefs of the preceding win* ters cannot properly be afligned as the caufe ; for they were not more open, perhaps Icfs fo, than fcvcral fuccceding fea- fons which were accompanied with no fuch confequences* The fmall-pox and meafl^^s are fometimes fatal to children. Inoculation is rather gaining ground, though (lowly. It is fur- prifing that any prejudice (hould remain again (I a pradlice, which experience hath proved to be fo falatary. Dr Leckie, (whofe praflice both in this country and the Weft Indies, has been very extenfive,) declares, ** that only two of all thofc 2 *' whom

of KippM. 337

<^ vhom he has inoculated died of the fmaU-pox : the one *' of thefe was taken ill with them within 24 hoars after be* ^* ing inoculated ; the other in lefs than 3 days. He has re- ** fided above 40 years in Kippen^ and inoculated abore 20 *• yearly at an average**.

Remarkable Mjdlcal Cafe. — It may not be improper in this place to mention the remarkable cafe of a boy who loft a conOderable portion of brain, and yet recoveredi without detriment to any faculty mental or corporeal. On the i ft of July 1792, William Stewart, a fervant boy, about 14 years of age, was by a blow from the foot of a horfe knocked to the ground, and left in a ftate of infenfibility. From a large wound on the right (ide of his fore«head, blood iflticd in con- fiderable quantities, as well as at different times, a confidera- ble portion of the fubftance of the brain. The boy not only. furvived the accident, but recovered, and was feen perfe^ily well, by the writer of this account in the month of November following. A diftin£l account of this cafe, and of the whole procefs of the cure, was publifhed by Mr Robert Leny, a young gentleman, pra^itioner in phyiic, which deferves the attention of thofe who are curious in phyfiology. It is inferted in the Medical Commentaries, publifiicd by Dr Duncan of Edinburgh, for 1793, P* J®'-

Churchy Manfey isfc. — The church is faid to have been built or rebuilt in 169 1. The eafter part of it was rebuilt in ^ 737- I^ ^** completely repaired in 17791 and is now a very decent and commodious pkce of worfliip — William Leckie of Dalher made a prefcnt of a very good bell to the parifti.— The prefcnt man fe was built in 1706. The ftipend by the ]aft decreet of augmentation in 1763 is neavly 89 bolls of meal, together with L. 34 : 3 : 4 ften which fum includes the

Vol. XViU. U u ordinary

33S Statijiical Account

ordinary allowances for cotnmumon elementSi and grafs mail* —James Erflcine Efq. of Cardroft is patron. Were all pa- trons, in the difpofal of vacant benefices, to (hew the fame regard to the wiflies of the parifliioners which this gentleman has uniformly done, the praftical evils which have often been complained of as refulting from the exercife 6f patronage^ would not be felt.

Meeting houfe.^k meeting-houfe in conne£lion with the Antiburgher feceders was built at Buchlyvie in 175 1. The. mtnifter has L. 50 fter. as ftipend, arifing from the feat rents, with a houfe and garden. The congregation is gather* ed from the feveral contiguous parifhes. The members of the fecefiion have laid afide much, .of that morofenefs and acrimony which diftinguiflied their predecefibrs, and in gene- ral maintain good neighbourhood with their brethren of the eftabliOied churclu There is a burying place conne&ed ^th the meeting- ho)ife.

S^^oo/.— It muft be obvious that one parochial fchool is entirely inadequate to the extent and populoufnefs of this pa- rifli. To remedy this inconvenience, various plans have been at different times propofed. It has long been found abfolute- ly neceiTary to have another fchool at the weft end of the pariili. But the heritors felt reluctance to impofe upon tliemfelves the burden of two parochial fchools* A fchool- mafter who was admitted in 1752 was taken bound to pro- vide at his own charge two teachers, the one at Buchlyyiej the other at the burn of Arnprior, for fix months in the year; or to have jO merks retained from his falarly, which was then L. 100 Scots. It was afterwards propofed to remove the parochial fchool to a convenient fituation in the center of the parifh, and to have only ont teacher. Ac laft it was deter- mined

. of Kippcn. 339

mined in 1 763 to hare two eftabliOied fchools ; the falary was advanced to L. 1 15 Scots, of which L. 75 is allotted Xo the fchoolmafter at Kippen, the remaining L. 40 to the other teacher. In the year 178a a fchoolhoufe, including a dwelling«houfe for the mailer, was built at Ciaymires. It is in fufficient repair and tolerably commodious* The fchool- mafter at Kippen is but indifferently accommodated. In for- mer times, a houfe was occafionally rented for the fchoolj and the mafter was fcldom accommodated with a dwelling- houfe* The fchool was held in the church for fome time prerious to its reparation in 1779. Since that time a houfe has been rented, on a long leafe, for a fchool-houfe, and dweiU ing-houfe for the mafter ; neither of which, ho^v'cve^, are very commodious.— ^In the fchool at Kippen, are taught reading, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, Latin, and church mufic. The whole emoluments of the fchoolmafter, including his falary and fees as fellion clerk, may amount an- » nually to L. 25 or L* 30 fterling *. As the diftance from the two eftabliflied fchools is more than 4 miles, the inhabitants of the intermediate diftriA find it convenient to employ a teacher during the winter months to inftru£l younger childretr in the elements of reading and writing. The number of fcholars laft winter, when the fchools were moft frequent^ was at Kippen 60, at Amprior 36, atClaymires 64.

Poor. — ^Thc funds for fupply of the poor in thisparifli arife, from the weekly coUeflions, dues from marriages, from the mortclotb, occafional fines from delinquents, together with L. 13 ; 10, the intcreft at 4f per cent of L. 300 fter. which at

U u 2 different

* An addition of two guineas per ann. has been lately made to th« fchooUmfler, for keeping the record Qfthe meetipj^s of heritors.

340 Statiftical Account

difierent periods has been mortified by individuals for behoof

of the poor of the parifli. Of this fum 2000 merks, or

L. 1 1 1 : 2 : 2tt ftcr. was mortified by the late Walter M^Lach-

Ian of Wetter Colbowie, the interett of which in terms of his

will muft be diftributed among the poor in Buchlyvie. The j

half of this fum was left to the difpofal of the aflbciate feffion i

at Buchlyvie, whofe intromiffions were to be fubje£l to the j

review of the kirk- feffion of Kippen ; but they declining to I

accept of the management on thefe conditions, the whole was

given to the kirk feffion of Kippen. On this account a fepa*

rate book is kept for recording the dittributions that axe made

to the poor in the barony of Buchlyvie. The annual a-

mount of the funds muft neccfikrily vary. From L. 40 to L. 50 is diftributed every year. The number of the poor is alfo variable. In 1792 the number of ordinary penfioners on the lift was generally 22, who received in different fums, according to their neceffities, the higheft L. 2 : 7, the loweft 9s. or J OS. in the courfc of the year. Befides the ftatcd dif- tribucions, occafional fuppiy is alfo granted to perfons who fuffer from temporary diftrefs. — In 1782 the heritors bought, and diftributed a quantity of oatmeal to the moft neceffitous, below the market price. With a view to prevent improper ^pplicationsi it has fometimes been required that thofe who receive fuppiy, fhould affign to the feffion for behoof of the poor all the property they may die poflefTcd of, after the houfe rent and funeral charges are paid. But the neceffity of this meafure is not very urgent, whilft the poor in general difcover fo much reludtance to accept of public charity. — ^Thc funds are managed by the kirk* feffion, who keep regular ac- counts of their intromiffions ; thefe are occafionally revifed ajid homologated by the heritors.— ^Objeftions have fometimes been made to the payment of the falaries of the prefbytery clerk and officer, and of the fynod clerk, which altogether a-

mount

of Kippcn. 341

mount to IIS* 2d. per ann. from this parifli. Were any o- ther fand provided for payment of thefe falaries, the altera- tion would undoubtedly be proper, and credit would then be given to the liberality of thofe who brought it forward. But on what principle of juftice, it fhould be attempted to devolve this burden on the clergy, it is furely difficult to difcover. — — On the whole, it is believed that no better plan can be devifed for taking care of the poor, than that which is gene- rally pra£^ifed throughout Scotland. And whilft the mem* bers of kirtfeflions continue to a£l with fidelity and prudence, their gratuitous performance of a fervice, which is accom« panied with confiderable trouble, undoubtedly entitles them to the gratitude and fupport of their country*

Villages. — The village of Kippen (lands about a mile dlf- tant from the eaftern boundary of the parifli^ and contains 76 families. Buchlyvie, which is 5 miles further weft, is a larger village, and contains 102 families. The greater part of the inhabitants 'of both thefe villages confifts of labourers and trades people of different defcriptions. There are feveral merchants alfo, who fupply us not only with rye graf?, clover, lint feed, and wool, but with mod articles of perfonal and domcftic confumpt.

Fairs and Markets. — Five fairs are held in the village of Kippen, and as many in Buchlyvie in the courfe of the year. Belides which, there is a weekly market in Kippen, in each Wednefday, for 3 or 4 weeks, in the month of December. By an Aft of the Parliament of Scotland *, June 15th 1686 ; William Leckie then proprietor of the barony of Da(her or

Deflioar,

^ The origiDal eztradt of the aA, figned by Lord Tarbat, then Loixl ^krk Regifter, is in the poflcflien of Mr Graham of Cartmorc.

34^ Statijlical Account

Dcflioar, and his fucccflbrs, are authorized to keep 3 free fairs in the year, at certain times which arc fpecificd, each to continue 3 days ; and alfo a weekly market every Wednef- day, to be holden on the Caftle-hill of Daflier, on which part of the village of Kippen now (lands. Two of thefe fairs ftilt remain. That which was appointed to be held in the month of September, has been long difufed, as aifo the wetkly market ; if indeed it was ever obferved at all. The weekly markets in December are probably all that remains of It.

Prices of Laiburf fefr.— It muft be of ufe to record the price of labour, and of the provifions and various commodi- ties which are produced and confumed in a country, as no circumftance tends more to afcertain its relative (ituation with refpefl to other countries, and to itfelf, both in former and fubfequent times.— About 40 years ago the wages of men-fcrvants were about L. 2, of women from 15s to i6s 84 a-year, with bounties. Thofe who were careful faved moft of their wages, as the bounties were fufficient to furniih them with cloatbs. About 30 years ago, wages had gradually ad- vanced, men's to L. 5 or L. 6, women's to L* 1 : 15 or L. 2 s 5. ^ Bounties are now generally abolifhed, and in 1793, from L. 7 to L. 9, were given to men, from L. 2 : 10 to L. 3 : 10^ to women.— In harveft, as there is no weekly market, reap« ers are generally hired by the feafon. Before 1760 men re* ceived from 138 4d to 16s 3d, women from los to 13s 4d ; and in 1793 men received 30s, women 20s.— Before 1760, the wages of taylors and day-labourers, was 4d a-day, with viduals; 6d was given in 1783, and rod in 1793* Carpen- ters and mafons about 30 years ago, got 6d a-day, with vic- tuals*, in 1793, ^^^y received is 2d. Formerly, fmiths were paid by the farmers with graiuj^ for fcrving them in work

through

«/ Kippffi. 343

through the year \ they are now paid for the piece of work, at certain fixed rates. Within thcfe lo or la years, a con- fiderable rife has taken place, on mod of the articles of liTing. The following table, (hews the prices of a few of the mod common articles at different periods.

In 1763. In 1783. In 1793.

Butter per lib. Dulch^

weight, . 54dor4di

6d or 7d

pdorpdi

Cheefe, do. il^

2d

2df or3d

A hen, - 4d to 6d

8d

lodor IS

Eggs per doz* i i

2d

3d

Mutton, veal and lamb, were formerly fold without being weighed at fo much per quarter ; they are now fold by weight, and regulated by the Stirling market, which is generally 3d or 2^i pel" lit)- Dutch weight. Beef is feldom killed except about Martin mafs, and is fold for 4s or 48 6d per (tone. It b hardly neceflary to take notice of the prices of grain, which arc perpetually varying. It may fuffice to mention oat-meal, which in fummcr 1783 fold at 22s per boll; it had not reached near that price, Gncc the year 1757; in 1 785, it fell ^fo low as 13s 4d or i2s 6d; but 15s or 165, may be conC« dered as its price on an average.

ManufaBures. — ^This parifli does not admit of any eftablifli- ments in the cotton- manufa£lory, as no fituation could be found, commanding at all times a plentiful fupply of water. Yet fome branches of manufaflure in fome degree reach even to us. In the village of Kippen 25 or 30 young girls, under the infpe£lion of a midrefs, are employed by a compa- ny in Glafgow in tambouring muflins. In Buchlyvie, fome of the newly invented jennies for fpinning cotton have been Z fet

344 Statijiical Account

fct,up by a company in Balfron. And in both riUageSi as well as through the parifli, a confiderable number of weayers has been employed by feveral companies in weaving muflins*.-^ Such inftitations not only give bread at prefent to many in- dividuals and families, but muft in time excite a general fpirit of induftry and enterprize amongft our people.— In Buchlyvie there is a tan-work, confifting of i6 or 20 pools ; « and in another place (heep fkins are tanned to a fmall extent.— Before the commencement of the prefent diftillery a£l ia 1793. there were 4 diftillers of whifky in the parifli, who carried on an advantageous trade, as they ftood on the north fide of the line fixed by the former a£t, to feparate the highlands from the low country. By the prefent z€t a change of line has taken place, by which this parifh is thrown on the fouth fide, and thus cut off from the benefits of the highland di(ln<%. Since December 1793, there is but one diftillery of the fize required by law, which furniihes the country with whiflcy, and produces a very confiderable re- venue to government. ' Including the licence and duty on malt, the proprietor pays about L. 1200 fterling annually to the excife.

Heritorsy Renty bfc. — There are in all 24 heritors. Of thcfc ^ 6 are feuars or portioners, not inducting the fmall feuars in the villages. Robert Graham Efq. of Gartmore is the principal heritor ; there are 9 who refide in the parifh. Excepting two or three eftates, the whole property in the parifh has been changed within thcfe 50 or 60 years. The valued rent amounts to L. 5185:8:8, Scots- The prefent real rent,

may

* Since this aitide was 6r{l written, thefe branches of manufa^re have fuffered fooic interruption, in confeqoence of the late ftagnation of trade. This htmcvcr, it is hoped, will prove but temporary.

of Kippen. 345

may be eftimated at L. 4000 fterlixlg* The rents are generally paid partly in money and partly in visual. Mod of the landlords require al(b kain of fowls, certain carriages of vie- tuiil or coal \ and thofe who refide in the parifli, a certain number of days labour in the mofs when cafting peats ; all which it would be better to abolifb, and take the value in grain or money at a reafonable converfion. Thirlage is ge- nerally aboliflied ; in fomc in (lances however it ftill remains* This inftitution marks a remote period of fociety, and the rer mains of it greatly retard improvement.

Land and Produce. — ^The quantity of land in this p^rifh cannot eaGly be aCcertained. According to the mod probable conje£lttre, the carfe may be fuppofed to contain 1200 acres of arable land, ^d about 300 of mofs ; the dryfield about 5000 acres of arable and pafture land, and 'about 1500 or 2000 of moor. Land in the carfe is worth from 1 5s to 20s ; in the dryfield, from 5 s to 25s per acre. Oats, and barley or bear, form the ftaple produce of this pariih. Oatmeal in confiderable quantities is exported to the weft highlands, the printfields on the water of Leven, the Dunbarton, and the Glafgow markets. The barley is purchafed by the diftHIer Ind the malt men in the pariih ; by the latter, malt in confi- derable quantities is exported to the highlands. Much more barley than grows in the parifh, perhaps double the quantity, is purchafed by them. Some wheat is fown in the carfes, very little in the dryfield ; the wctnefs and latenefs of our climate is peculiarly unfavourable to the cultivation of this kind of grain. Peafe are fown in the dryfield, and beans in the carfe. Moft farmers raife as much flax as fupplies their own families with that ufeful article, but none for the mar- ket. The fame thing may be affirmed with refpe£l to pota- toes. Very few turnips are fown. — In the carfe, a kind of

Vol. XVII [. X x white

346 Stati/lical Account

white faugh grows to a conGderable fize. It wiU grow to the chicknefs of a foot in diameter in the fpace of ao yean, and is peculiarly ufefiil for farming utenGls and machinery.

Cattle and Carriages. ^Tht number of horfes is fuppofed to be about 360, of which the greater part has been reared in the parifti. — The number of cows is about 1600; about 180 or 200 are annually bought and fold ; the remainder confifts of milk cows and young ftock,— Formerly, every farmer kept a number of iheep^ but fince the farms have been inclo« fed this praAice has been difcontinued. The number at prefent in the pariih will not exceed 8 or 10 fcore. — - There are about 165 ploughs^ 285 carts^ and 3 two- wheeled . chajifes.

Agriculture.^^Tht ancient mode of hu{bandry which pre- vailed throughout Scotland, was alfo pra£lifed in this pariOi* No attempts to improve it feem to have taken place before the middle of the prefent century. A few inclofures were made about 40 years ago. But any improvements of confe* quence> have all been introduced Gnce the military road from Stirling to Dunbarton was completed. Since that period a very conGderable change has taken place. Mod of the lands in the pari(h are inclofed with ftotie dykes or thorn hedges. A good deal of lime is every year laid upon the fields. And a general fpirit of induflry has been excited, which promifes in time greatly to improve the agriculture of the country.

The wctnefs of the climate is a great difadvantage. This not only injures the crops, but renders our feafons g;cnerally late. We arc upon the whole three weeks later than Eaft* Lothian, and often a fortnight later than our neighbours ia the vicinity of Stirling* Seldom does the feed labour begin before the middle of March, and not unfrequently the end of

that

<(f Kippen. 347

that month approaches, before the fields are dry enough for the plough. In the year 1789, the bear-feed was not finifli- ed before the 8th June. So late a feafon howcTer was ra- ther uncommon. Hanreft is feldom over before the middle or end of Odober, and com ts fcen fometimes (landing out even when the month of November is advanced. On account of the frequent rains, it is but feldom that any labour can be got forward afteH|brveft, or during the winter. The fame circumftance is alfo unfavourable to the praflice of fallowing, which however is negle£led in this country, more than is proper. It is indeed feldom or never attempted in the dry- field, and in the carfe but fometimes, as a preparation for fowing wheat.

The foil of the carfe has been already defcribed. In the carfe farms, the infield or crofting grounds were formerly kept in a conftant rotation of barley, oats> and beans. A great part of the infield carfe lands has been laboured in thift way for time immemorial, without ever being paftured or fummer fallowed. The outfield was fown with three crops of oats fuccelfively, and then paftured. Carting clay from the ditches and ends of ridges, and mixing it with dung and mofs, was thought to make excellent manure, though pro- cured with great labour. This compoft however is lefs ufed, and more lime is laid upon the grounds, fince the prac-* tice of fummer' fallowing and fowing grafs«feeds was intro- duced. This is found to poflefs great advantages over the former ibode of culture.

The whole dryfield of this parifli lies upon a rock, which IS immediately covered with a bed of till, and above this is the foil, which is of unequal depth, though generally {hallow« Hence it is generally wet, as the water is not allowed to fub- fide. The foil immediately contiguous to the moor is moiTy and poor, but it becomes richer farther down the hill. The

X z a crops

348 Staii/iical Account

crops on thcfe high groands are feldom adequate to the la- bour and expence beftowed upon them. What {bail we think of the fituation of that land, and of thofe who labour it> from which an incieafe in the proportion of 3 to J is reckoned an excellent crop ? The inferiority of the oats and barley produced on fuch grounds, is alfo experienced both at the mill and market* It would certainly be better if more of the higher part of the dryficld^bircrc thrown into grafs. If the tillage indeed were altogether abandoned, thefe lands in a fliort time would be overgrown with heath or broom. But this might eafily be prevented by occafionai cropping.

It would be a great improvement to drain thofe fields which are mod injured by water. In fome places indeed the rock comes fo near the furface, that fuch a meafure 19 impradicable. But in many places it might be adopted with great advantage. So extenfive an undertaking however could hardly be carried on by ordinary tenants on a 19 years leafe. It would therefore be the intereft of the proprietors to give them fome proper encouragement. A laudable ex- ample of this kind is fet'by Mr Stirling of Garden, who agrees to be at the expence of cading the ditches, and the tenants are bound to fill them up with ftones. Wherever this improvement is attempted, care fiiould be taken that the ditches be of lufficient depth. They ought to be 3 feet deep, and filled with ftones as near the furface as that the plough cannot touch them.

Too little attention is paid in general, to a proper rotation of crops. The dryfield cannot well bear more than two white cfops fucceffively. Thofe therefore who go on to take three or four, certainly impoverifh their grounds. A greater pro* portion of the farm fhould be laid down in grafs, and other green crops occalionally interpofed. This will be more at- tended

of Kippen. 349

tended to, as improvements in hutbandry advance amomgft us. Sonne of the more judicious farmers have begun to adopt this plan, and find their account in the change of their prac- tice.

Turnips are but little cultivated in this part of the country. Experience however has fliewn their utility in cleaning the ground^ keeping it in good condition, and furniQiing ma- nure; an objeft of great importance, where dung cannot be purchafed. There can be no doubt that in many places of our dryfield, turnips might be cultivated with fuccefs*

As our feafons are generally late, the ufc of earlier forts of feed muft appear an obvious advantage. The Eflex oats and fome other kinds have been tried. But the tendency of thefe to be {haken with the harveft winds, has hitherto difcouraged our farmers from making much ufe of them.

Several of the implements ufed in hufbandry would admit of improvement. The Scotiifh plough is generally ufed, but little attention is paid to its conftruftion. As thofe prejudices againft all innovations however proper, which diftingiUlhed the ancient farmers of Scotland, are now wearing away, it is to be hoped, that all fuch alterations as reafon and experience prove to be ufeful, will in time be introduced. It is agree- able to obferve that fome ploughs of a better conftruftion have lately been procured ; and within thefe two years, no Icfs than 8 thrcfliing mills have been ercfted in tht parifh. Every corn mill has now a kiln contiguous to it ; the kiln-heads are of tail iron, which occafion a confiderable faving in refpe£l of ftraw and fuel. The oats are dried in much kfs time, and the meal produced is equally good as by the ancient method. For- merly almoft every farmer was accu domed to have a kiln of hh own, which not only required frequent reparations, but was extremely liable to accidents by fire.

A better method of ploughing, than that which the old far- 2 mers

350 Statijlical Account

mers ^rdOixkA is now generally adopted ; fjewer borftis are em* ployedi and in fome inftances without a go^dman.

The ploughing matches that have been inftituted in difie* rent parts of the country, have been accompanied with very good effcAs* A plan of this kind has once and again been at* tempted here. Under the patronage of a number of gentle men in the neighbourhood, a ploughing match took place on the 22d March 1 794^ at which 1 7 ploughs^ llarted, and about L. 12 fter. was diftributed in different fums to the 7 beft ploughmen, and a fmall gratuity to the reft. Such welJ-jud- ged encouragement mud ftimulate our farming fenrants to ex* eel in this important part of pradical huibandry.

Difadvaraages ; and ProjeBed ImprovemenU. — ^The want of coal is one principal difadvantage under which this parifli labours. We have none nearer than Bannockburn and Auchenbowie, either of which is at leaft i % miles from the village of Kippcn. There feems reafon to believe that coal may be found in the lands of Glinns and Balgair in this neighbourhood. Attempts for that purpofe have repeatedly been made in thefe places, as well as in the lands of Buchly- vie, but hitherto without the fuccefs that might be defircd. The acquifition of coal fo near would be of vaft importance to this part of the country.

We have lime at no great difiance, and even within the pariili. As the limeftone however contains a confiderable portion of fand, it is thought not to fuit the dryfield fo well, though proper for the carfe lands. But as the coal neceflary to burn it cannot be procured but at great expence and trouble, moft farmers^ efpecially in the middle^ and eaft end of the parifh, find it more for their advantage to drive lime from Stirling (bore, to which it is brought up the Forth from the E^rl of Elgin's lime works j or from the eftates of Sauchie s^nd

Murrayshalla

of Kippett: 351

MarrayshaUi about 12 miles from the Yillage. This lime^ ftone being of a richer quality than that which is nearer us, is found peculiarly fuitable for the dryfield. The (hells colt 8s. 6d. or 9s. per chalder at the kiln.

The parifliof Kippen raifes much more grain than is necef- fary for its own confumpt, but lies far from a good market. Stirling is abundantly fupplied from its own immediate vicini- ty, and both Glafgow and Dunbarton are 24 miles from the village. This difadvantage might be alleviated by making good roads. The road from Kippen to Glafgow by Campfie moor, was formerly extremely bad, and often impaflable in winter. In 1792 it was made turnpike, and the courfe of Jt in feveral places altered with advantage. A bill has lately received the fanf^ion of parliament for making the military road turnpike likewife. As thefe two great roads interfeft «ach other at the village of Kippen, the effefts of this under- taking muft be extremely favourable to this neighbourhood, as well as convenient for the pubjiic in general, by opening the communication between th« northern and fouthern parts of the country.

It is the opinion of many of the graziers and dealers in cat- tle, that Kippen is one of the moft convenient places, per- haps, in Scotland for a cattle niarket ; and that in the late fluAuatirig (late of the tryfts, it might not have been diflicult to transfer to it a great part of the fpring and autumn markets. There is a^fpacious moor near the village which lies very convenient for that purpofe. With a view to encourage their refort to it, Mr Graham of Gartmore, the pro* prietor, offered it to the dealers in cattle free of cuftom for 19 years.

It is alfo believed that the e(labli(hment of a corn mar* ket once a week at Kippen might prove very benefi- cial ; as alfo a weekly market in the time of harved for

hiring

353^ StaiiJlicaJ Account

hiring ihcarcrs. Both of thefc objefls fecmcd in a fair way of taking place a few years ago ; the defign however ws^ afterwards dropped *•

When the fcheme of joining the rivers Forth and Clyde by a navigable canal was firft proje£led, it was doubted which of the two was the preferable courfe, viz. the fouthem track,' nearly the fame with what was aAually adopted ; or *^the' ** other, by following the river Forth for fome miles above ** Stirling, and then croffing over by the bog of Bolatt into ** the water of Endrick, down to Loch Lomond, and from ** thence by the river Leven into the Clyde at Dunbarton f." Though this plan was rej cled, yet it dcfcrvcs the confidera- tion of all the proprietors on both fides of the Forth, whether it might be proper to have that river rendered navigable as far up as Gartmore. It appears from Mr Smeaton's report, that this is not only a pra^icable undertaking, but might be executed at no great expence. " Two locks and one dam **. would make an open navigation from Gartmore to the " Frith of Forth, at all feafons of the year ; and was there " any trade of con fcjquence up this extenfive valley, would ** be worth the while, independent of a navigable commu- '^ nication between the two feas. One lock ought to be placed *^ oppofite Craigforth mill, and the lock and dam at the ford *' of Frew, This with a little clearance of the flioal at Car- •* drofs, would make a navigable paflage over the fame :f-" The advantages refulting from fuch a plan, in furnifhing us with coal, lime, &c. in opening new markets for our grain,

and

* A frefh attempt to eftablliha weekly corn market at Klppen, was made fmcc this account was written, in fpring and fummer 1795, not without the proipeA of fuccefs.

f MrSmcaion*s report, in Scots magazine fori 767, p. 177.

\ Ibid. p. i8o.

of Kippen. 353

aiid confequtntly in raiding the value of landed property in this part of the country, are fo apparent that they do not need to be pointed out.

The moor on the fummit of the, hill might better be difpo* fed of in planting. A quantity of wafte and barren land in Glentirran moor, has within thefe few years been divided into fmali lots, and feued off to a number of people, each of whom builds a houfe on his feu and improves the ground. This land till lately was of very little value ; it now brings 203. per acre to the proprietor, Mr Graham of Gartmore. It is not every fituation however that admits of this improve* ment* Part of the fame moor has lately been cultivated by General Campbell, whofe extenfive improvements on the eftate of Boquhan are highly beneficial and ornamental to the country.

CharaEter of the Prt^/r.— The great body of the people in this pariih is entitled to the praife of fobriety. There are few inftances amongft us of notorious profligacy. By means of induftry and oeconomy, they in general obtain a comfortable fubfiftence, and fome individuals have raifed themfelves to

opulence. The fame changes with refpe6^ to drefs and

manner of living, are obferved here of late years as in other places.

General RefteSions on the State of Society. — ^It feems not un- reafonable to apprehend, that f)^ch a ftate of fociety as ap« pears at prefent in the parifh of ELippen,and other places whofe circumftances are (imilar, is as favourable to happinefs as the courfe of human aflairs can ordinarily admit. In a country where improvements are altogether unknown, much happi* nefs cannot be enjoyed ; for there the neceflfaries of life are procured with ditTiculry, or, if they are eafily procured, Uttle VoL.XVlIL Y y fcopc

354 Stati/llcal Account

fcope is afforded for zQxvt exertion* On the other hand^ where improvements in agriculture and the arts have been brought to a high degree of perfedion, luxury and other evils accompany them, which are no lefs unfriendly than poverty and indolence to the happinefs of man. It is in fome inter* mediate ftatei where improvements have begun, and are ftiil advancing, that the circumftances of fociety appear mod caU culated to promote the comfort of human life* Such, it is conceived, is the c^afe with refpe£i to this neighbourhood^ and many other places in Scotland whofe fituation is the fame with ours. The truth of this aflertion will be manifeft^ if we take a comparative view of feveral ftates of focie- ty, which are known to have exifted, or do ftill ezift ia Scotland.

It is unneceflary to xlwell on thofc remote periods, when a fpirit of ferocity and warlike manners prevailed. Surely there could be little happinefs where there was little proper* ty, and that which men poflefied was infecure.

If we look back only to a generation or two, and refled on the ftate of the country in the former part of the prefent cen- tury, or furvcy thofe places, where the recent improvements in hufbandry have not yet been introduced, a ftate of fociety IS exhibited that cannot be gratifying to a lover of mankmd* The lands, fterile from want of culture, requite their penu- rious ^pofTeflbra with penury. Life is indeed protraded^ though few of its comforts are enjoyed. Men feem patient in enduring hardfhip, but averfe from labour. Strangers to enterprize, the powers of their minds ruft through mere di& ufe. A harmlefs, torpid race, who might be faid to fleep rather than to live. The farms generally fmall, juft enabled them to maintain their families and pay -the landlord, but held out few inducements to ftimulate exertion.

In the fouthern parts of Scotland as well as in England^

where

tfKippen. 353

where agriculture fcemt to be brought to the higheft ftate of improvement, we fee esteuGve farms in the pofleffion of tenants who appear as gentlemen, and are able to live in afflu- ence and fpiendour. Experience however undeniably proves that thofe fituations in life which admit of luxury, are ur« favourable to happtnefs. And in thefe places the diftance be* tween mailer and fervant is fo very greats that though the lat« ter may enjoy a prefent fubfiftence, yet he can have little or no hope of bettering his circumftances to fuch a degree, as to rife to independence, and obtain pofleffion of a farm himfelf. Such extenfive farms are alfo unfavourable to the population of the country.

Let us next attend to thofe places where m|nufa£lures have been introduced. There the ncceflaries anoconveniencies of life are procured with facility. Abundant fcope is given to exertion. And riches pour on all who are willing to labour* But thefe difproportioned rewards of labour' generally tend to enervate the finews of induftry, fofter idlenefs, introduce a total relaxation of morals, and confequently lead to poverty and wretchednefs *• Population indeed appears to increafc with rapidity ; but its progrefs is arretted by difeafe, which feems to fix its abode in thofe extenfive work*houfcs that are employed in manufactures. In the cotton- works particularly, children becoaoe able to fupport themfelves almoft as fooh as they are able tc fpeak or walk. But their wan and fickly af« pe£l, occafioned by conftant confinement ; and their unac- quatntance with the fentiments of religion and morality, arif* ing from the want of proper education, and the early infedion

Y y a. of

* It is well ktiown that comparatiTcly few opentirc manufacturers rife to opulence. Their money is dilCpated as fad as it is gained. Hence the wretchednefs of fuch multitudes of this defcription^ ia confequencc of thf late flap^tion of trade.

356 Statijiical Account

of evil company, do much more than counterbalance the pro- fits of infant labour. .If fuch children live till they become parents, what hopes do they afibrd refpcfting the next gene- ration ? By the wife and humane exertions of fomc benevolent individuals, thcfe evils may be partially prevented or allevi- ated ; but a general care to guard againft them is more than can reafonably be cxpcfted. To all whidx it may be added, that the facility with which money is pfocuted by the lower ranks, tends to generate a fpirit unfuited to their condition in life, unfriendly to fubordination, and menacing evcntualir the order and peace of fociety.

Now if we direS our view to fuch a ftate of fociety as takes place at prefent i^this pariih, and in other places which have reached the fame degree of improvement, a variety of circum- ftances will appear which combine to promote the felicity of human life* The farms are not too extenfive, and yet fuffi- ciently large to offer abundant fcope to exertion. A comfort- able fubfiftence is within the reach of every perfon who is able, and who choofes to labour. Perfevcring induftry and enter-* prife are crowned with liberal rewards. Not a few of our mod refpedable farmers were once fervants, and are now e- qual, perhaps fuperior in fortune, to the mafters whom they ferved. One man might be mentioned, who began the world with nothing, and, by farming only, reared a numerous fa- mily, and lately purchafed an edate in the pariih for which he paid 1500 guineas. The trades people in the villages live more comfortably than thofe of the fame rank in great towns. Almoft every family of this defcription has a kail-yard, and keepd a cow ; and thofe wiip are able to get a feW acres of land find this a great advantage. OccaGonal attention to their land forms an agreeable and ufeful relaxation from the fedentary life of a handicraft, and fupplies the family with meal and po- tatoes, and winter provifion for the cow. Though our fitua^-

tioa

of Kippen. 35jr

tlon does not admit of eftabliftiments in manufa£lureSf we are not altogether excluded from ^ (hare of the benefits derived from them. The increafing demand for grain, cattle, &c. is beneficial to the farmer; whilft the fmaller ereAions for fpinning cotton, tambouring, and weaving muflins, bring to us thefe manufa£tures, and the advantages refulting from them, upon fuch a fcale as is not likely to produce any material in- jury to the health or morals of thofe employed in them. At lead thofe who have the fuperintendence of fuch fmall manu- fa£iuring focieties, have it in their power to prevent or to correft abufes, to a degree that is altogether impraiElicable in great towns, or larger eftabltfhments of this kind.

Such are fome of the advantages enjoyed by a country which hath emerged from the unprofitable indolence of former times, and in which improvements are dill advancing, though they have not yet arrived at that ultimate point of perfedion to which they naturally tend.

The difadvantages which accompany an advanced (late of fociety, feem to render it no lefs unfriendly to human happi- nefs, than thofe earlier ftages in which improvements are but little known. 1 o prevent or to correal thefe evils, is fureJy one of the nobleft obje£ls which can employ the exertions of politicians and philanthropids. To this defireable end, the prcfent ftatiftical inveftigation of the kingdom, when com* pleted, may be expelled in a high degree to contribute. And the writer of this account will think himfelf happy, if thefe re- marks (hall lead the people in this part of the counftry, and Ga- thers placed in fimilar fituations, to contentment with the lot that Divine Providence hath a(rigned to them, and animate them to a becoming ufe of thofe advantages which they at prefent enjoy.

NUMBER

358 Statifiical Account

NUMBER Xlir. PARISH OF DUDINGSTON.

(county of EDINBURGH.)

By the Rev. Mr William Bennet*

Name, Situation and Extent.

DUDINGSTON is faid to be a name of Gaelic origin^ and to Ggnify the houfe on the funny fide of the bill. However fanciful fuch etymologies in general may be» the fituation of the church correfponds in fome fenfe with this defcription* It (lands under the fouth cope of Arthur's Seat, raifed upon an eminence, which is embraced on the weft and fouth by the lake bearing the fame name, and proteAed on the north by the mountain. The mod beautiful and pic* turefque fcenery expands before it, and on every fide. The views which it commands include every obje£t which the painter would feleA to compofe a rich or a finilhed landfcape; Magnificent villas, towering cailles, rich vallies, cultivated fields, woods, groves, ruins ; the lake below, the bold preci«^ pices of Arthur's Seat behind ; the hills of Pentland, M()or« foot, and Lammermoor, bounding the profpedl upon the tjecft and foutli i and the fca finkiog in the dillant horizon,

upoR

cf Ludingjlon. 55^

upon the eaft. The diftance of the village from the city of Edinburgh is little more than a. mile ; and the path that leads to it through the deep acclivities and chafms of the hill, though formerly difficult to pafs, has yet proved fufficiently alluring to induce many of its opulent citizens to refort tbither, in the fummer months, to folace themfelves over one of the ancient homely diflies of Scotland *, for which the place has bcM long celebrated ; and, in winter, to attra£fc crouds to witnefs or to partake of the amufements of ikating upon its lake. The pariih itfelf is of an irregular form^ which fancy might imagine to refemble a wedge ; and inju- dicioufly, and very inconveniently, the church has been pitched near its fliarpeft apex. It extends from weft to eafl: four miles, and from north to fouth from lefs than half a mile to more than two. Upon the fouth it b bounded by part of the p^rifhes of Inverefk and Liberton, upon the weft and north by thofe of St. Cuthbert's, Canongate, and South Leith, and upon the eaft by the Frith of Forth.

Hifloryy Villages^ £5*^.— -The original foundation of the church and erediion of the parifh cannot be traced. In the regifter of ^gnations for the minifters ftipends in the year 1574, MSS.*prefented by Bifliop Keith to the Advocates li- brary, Dudlngfton is faid to have been a joint dependance with the caflle of Edinburgh upon the Abbey of Holyrood- houfe. The oldeft records of the fellion are only of the year 1631. In 1630 the lands of Preftonfield were disjoined from the kirk and paiilb of St. Cuthbert's, of which they had

formed

* The nfe of Tinged iheeps heads boiled or baked. To frequent in this vil- lage, is fuppofed to have ariien from the pra^ice of flaughtering the flieep fed on the neighbouring hill for the market, removing the carcafes to town, and leaving the head, &c, to be confumcd in the place.

3^0 Staiijlical Account

formed a part, and annexed to the parifh of Dudiiigfton« By an aft of the prcfbytery of Edinburgh, dated May i8th 163 1, an ayfle was appointed to be added to the kirk of Dudingfton, for accommodation of the then proprietor of Freftonfield and his tenants, to be built and fupportecTat^hia expence. The barony of Dudingfton which comprehends . the greateft part of the whole parifli, for a confiderable pe- riod continued in the pofTeflion of the family q||Thomfon*s, of whom Sir Thomas was created a Baronet by Charles I- 1637. It appears that the cftate had fallen into the hands of tlie Duke of Lauderdale in 1674. It paffed with a daughter of his firft Duchefs, under the name of pin-money to the ■ family of Argyle, to the firft Duke of which (he was mar- ried. In 1745 it was fold by Archibald Duke of Argyle to the late Earl of Abcrcorn, uncle and predeceflbr to the Mar- quis, the prcfcnt proprietor.

Wefter Dudingfton was once a large and populous village* Moft of the tenants upon the barony redded in it prior to the year 1751. Before the fame period it furnifhed 36 horfes to carry coals in facks or creels to Edinburgh* About 40 years ago it fupplied above 30 weavers looms. Thefe were chiefly employed in manufafturing a very coarfe flaxeij ftuff, then known by the name of Dudingfton hardings, which general- ly fold for 3^d. to 4d. per yard. But the trade has declined ; and there now remain but five weavers in the village. No place could be better adapted for fome fuch manufa£bory as this, from its accefs to water, fuel, and the neceffaries of life, as well as from its vicinity to Edinburgh. The late pro- prietor ^lad it in contemplation to have rebuilt the place upon the model of a neat commodious Englifli village, but from the interfeftion pf feus, and the oppofition of their poffcflbrs, he was obliged to defift from the attempt. The houfes in confe- qucnce, have been fuffcrcd to drop into ruin, and thofe which

remaia

Dudingjlon. 36«

arc chiefif occupied by labouring people, whofe wiveS| witfc fome widows ia the place, employ themfelves in wafliing linen^ or carry milk to the inhabitants of t^e neighbouring city, for which their viqinity to the loch of Dudingfton, and to many old and^xcellent paflure fields, affprds them the moft conve- nient oportunities.—— Formerly it is fuppofed to have contained above 500 inhabitants. At prefent the number does not exceed 200.

Eafter Dudingfton has not varied fo much in its fize and population. It has lately been rebuilt in part, and the new honfes according to their original deftinatioq, are for the moft part occupied by coalliers. Portobello and Brickfield, novr the moft populous and profperous villages of the parifli, are but of very recent origin and name. The grounds on which they are built is a part of the Figget lands, which alto- gether confift of about 70 acres. Thefe continued down to the 1762 or 1763 a mere wafte, covered for the moft part with furze or whins, and were commonly let to one of the Dttdingfton tenants for 200 merks Scots, or L. 1 1 : 2: 2 A fter. In one or other of the above mentioned years, the lands o£ Figget were fold for L. 1500 fter. The purchafer imme*- diately began to improve his property, and in a few years parcelled it out into different feus at the rate of L. 2 : 2, and fometimes even more, per acre* He foon indemnified himfelf for the expcnces of improvement with the crops he raifed^ and by the feu duties enfured an annual income of about 7 per cent, for the original price* Portobello hut was the firft houfe. raifed in the midft of the original wafte about the year 1742^ and derived its title from the Spanifli American city of that name, of the capture of which, the news had arrived in Britain about that period. Since the cultivation and improvements of the neighbouring foil^ befides the ordinary houfes required for the brick, pottery, and tile manufa£bureS| a number of gay.

Vol. XVUI. Z a or

ig6& Statifiical Acci^unt

or commodious dwelitngs have been crcfted by the feuen^ cither for their own accommodation or for bathing cjuartern for which the agreeable foftncfs of the adjacent fandy beach, the purity of the air, and the convenience of the Muflcl- ' burgh or rather London pod road form obvious recommenda- tions.

Afpccl and Imprcvemenis of the Cduntry^ Surface ^ £gV> There is not a more highly cultivated fpot in Scotland, nor one which more rcfembles the rich champaign of England, than that which 4the general afpe£b of this parifh difplays. But this has not been the cafe fo long as the immediate neighbourhood of the Metropolis might have bduced us to have imagined. The lands of Prcftonfield were the firft that were improved in the parifli, or probably in the county. The proprietor of that eftate was Lord Provoft of Edinburgh, about the time of the Revolution in i688. At that period, the fulzie or fwecpings, and manur-e from the ftrects of the City was fo little valued, or rather the proper ufc of it was lb little underftood, that inftcad of drawing revenue from it, a confiderable fum was paid to fome of the farsoers in the neighbourhood for rem'b^ng it. The then proprietor of Prcf- tonfield, availed himfelf of the opportunity to.cnricb. his ef- tate. . He undertook to empty or to fcour the ftrceta ; and he applied the manure thus obtained, to improve the lands of Prcftonfield. Thefe he laid down in the moft favourable condition, inclofed and fubdivided. And as it is beltevcd, that thefe were the firft inclofed lands in the vicinity of Edinburgh, fo it is certain, they were the firft improved. As they are befides the otdeft, fo they are ftill efteemed the beft grafs pafturcs about the chy, or perhaps any where clfc in Scotland. It was rather a matter of wonder, that fuch an. example was not immediately foUovred by many of the

ncighbojttrlng

^udingjionl %6%

neighbouring gentlemen, who muft quickly hare obferred die fingular benefit which refulted from this experiment. The profecution of fuch improvements, however, at any dif« tance from the city, might at that period have been much if not totally obftrucied, from the ftate of the roads, which were generally ruinous, and often impaflable in the winter feafon. It might arife partly from this circumftancf , which formed alfo another obftacle to cultivation ; that it was noc till after the year 1750, that carts came to be in general ufe s at lead to the weft of Edinburgh, though they had been long empbyed upon the eaft fide, the conveyance of all materials having been before that period, in facks, hurdles or creel5> upon the backs of horfes. About 1730, the offals and ma* ziurc of the ftreets of Edinburgh fold at 2d per cart : At ' prefent, the cart load in fome circumftances fells at xs 6d» . or upwards; though in moft cafes, the ftreets and other iburces of fuch unfightly treafures, are let by general or ex* tenfive contrails. ' ^

The eftate of Dudingfton, was much later in undergoing any efie£kive improvement. The tenants originally poflefled their lands in run«ridge or run-dale ; and in each of the vil« tages of Wefter and Eafter Dudingfton in which they refided^ they had accefs to a common, upon which they paftured their iheep, horfes, and other cattle, which were kept by a common herd. It is fomewhat remarkable, that before the year 17469 there never was an inftance of a leafe upon that eftate ; yet it is believed, there is not an older or more refpeAable ten- antry in Scotland ; feveral of the families of the prefent ten* ants having been in pofleflbn of their farms for upwards of aoo years. About the year I75i> the proprietor,, ithe late Earl of Abercorn^ began to fubdivide his eftate into commo- dious farms, to build convenient fara»-houfes« and offices upon each^ and to inck)fe them with ditches a^d hedges.

Z z a The

i

364 Stat0ical Account

The eftate was dius reduced into a regular and progreftve ftate of cultivation ; and the country beautified and adorned with hedge-rows, dumpst and plantations of various forma and extent* Though tlie rents comparatively have beeo greatly advanced, in confcquence of thefe iooproveoients ; the tenants are all thriving, live comfortably, and perhaps are in every refped, in a better condition than their prede* cefbrs ; fome of whom only paid at the rate of 5s per acre for the arable land of an inferior quality, with an inteicft m the commons, for which no rent was demanded. Prior 10 the year 1746, the medium rent of land in the parifh was ^bout IDS for the computed acre, now it is about L. 2 : 2« In 1763, foon after the Earl bad compleated the fubdividing and enclofing of his eftate, he began to build his manfion houfe of Dudingfton, upon an elegant and commodious plao^ the work of the late Sir William Chalmers* The houfe and offices were finiflied in 1768 ; and continue to exhibit a beau* tiful fpecimen of Greek architedure and elegance, and of Engliih accommodation and affluence* The noble villa was funounded with (hrubbery, pleafure grounds, canals, gas* dens ; and in the formation of the whole> it is fuppofed, d>ove Jj. 30,000 fterling, were expended* The beautiful variety of the ground, the happy pofition of the clumps and grovesy the ftriking diverfity of the water embeUi(hments, canah, lakes, ifles, and cafcades -, and above all« the grandeur and beauty of the furrounding fcencry and profpeAs, independ* cntly of the magnificent form and archite£lure of the houie itfelf, muft ever render the place fingularly pi&urefque, ele- gant and attrading.

AiV, Agriculturif isfc. — ^The foil is naturally but poor or indifferent in the greater part of the pari(b^ goierally a brown

earthy

^ Dudingjton. 363

^tb» feldom exceeding 16 inches in depth, and often not attaining to fo much ; towards the eaft, inclined to and reft« tug on a ilrong clay^ and near the fea-coaft degenerating into flight, but with culture not unproductive, fand. Agriculture has been carried to a high degree of perfe£tion ; though it muft be confefled, from the circumftances of fituation^ there is little Icope here for the exercife of ingenuity^ or the inven« tion of rcfources in the application of the art. The great medium of improvement is the manure of Edinburgh ; and the great obje£k of ambition, is the multiplying of wheat crops. Thefe by the command of manure, can be often forced upon the foil before the return of any ordinary rotation of crops would permit their introduAion. The fallowing, drills pafture, and turnip hufbandry, sire little pra£tifed in this neighbourhood, froqi the deamefs of the ground ; and the eafy though expenfive acquidtion of the richeft manure* Crops of artificial grafs and clover are frequently introduced, generally cut twice in the feafon, and feldom allowed to re- main above two years upon the ground. Often the greater part of both crops is fublet and retailed in bunches in Edin* burgb, at idt the bunch, the ftanding price, though the bunckitfelf varies in Gze, according to the feafon, crop, &c. Potfttoes are alfo a ftaple commodity, often fublet like clover at L. 8, and even L* 10 per acre. Barley, oats, peafe, as ufual have their place, though the laft as feldom as pofiible ; but afluredly the 'fined crops of each fpecies of grain that can be feen any where, are raifed here. Grounds that are kept in pafture, are feldom occupied by iheep to any extent ; but are generally grazed by milk cows, and road horfes from the neighbouring bity ; and thefe pay in the fummer months 8d per night for each horfe, and 6d per cow.

Price

366 S4a0icat Account

Price of Labwr.^^lti 174^, the yearly wage of

a pjoughmau was - » 300

A maid-fenrant, - - i 10 6

A day-labourer, per day, * 007

A journeyman mafon, - . o i i^

A journeyman carpenter or wright, o 010

A journeyman taylor with his viduals, 004

In 1 794, the wages now arc •i — A plogughman per

year, - - • 700

A maid-fervant, - • 300

A journeyman mafon per day, • 016

A journeyman carpenter or wright, 018

i A day-labourer, - - 012

A taylor with his visuals, • o o 10

ManufaBures.-^Thc manufaduring or weaving of cloths of various kinds, though once profecuted with confidertible fuccefs in this place, has fallen, as has already been remarked, into a fatal decline. Manufadures, however^ of a difierenc kind, have arifen more recently with hopeful promife of fuc- cefs in the eailern parts of the parifli* To the fpirited and continued exertions of one patriotic gentleman, are to be af* cribed the various ufeful works which now occupy and adorn the once defart lands of Ftgget, and which contribute to fap- ply the village of Brickfield or Portobello with near 300 in« habitants. Mr William Jamiefon, an eminent tradefman and architedl in the city of Edinburgh, having purchafed ^about 40 acres of the Figgct lands, at the yearly feu duty of L. 2 : 2.

per

* Befides this, fanners fcrrants receive two pecks of oatmeal a week, and 6d, which they call kitchen, whidi may lender the whole ezpcncc with other advantages/ a^oat L. ij : X9. /

0

t^ Dudingjhru 367

per aCTC) built upon this property, in 17671 a handfome dwel- ling houfe; and having difcovered a rich and deep bed of clay under the fand, he began foon after that period, the manu- faQuring of bricks \ which by the number of hands employed, and hottfes required for their accommodation, gave rife to the above mentioned rapid increafe of his village. The fame clay Jias been found equally well adapted for the fabrication of tile, brown pottery, and white ftone wares, all of which are carry- ing on with hopes of encreafing fuccefs. The lad of thefe^ the white ftone- ware manufadlury, having been fufpendcd a while, has very lately been refumed by Meflirs. Cockfon and Jardine of Edinburgh, upon the StaiTordflure model, and upon an enlarged and liberal plan. As the work however is only in its infancy as yet, it would be premature to enter into particulars ; but from the advantages of its fituation, the vi- cinity of the metropolis, and the (kill and fpirit of the under- takers, a profperous iflue may naturally be expefbed to the at* tempt. Upon the fouth-eaft borders of the parifli at Magda- lene bridge, an attempt was made fome years ago, to intro- duce the manufactory of Scots fuperfine broad cloths, which a^fter having been attended with confiderable fuccefs fqr a time, was at laft fuffered to drop into decay- In the works erected to profecute this defign, a manufactory of hats is at prefent carried on. Salt has been long prepared upon the feacoaft, in the pariih. Maitland pans derive their name from, and were probably erc£lcd by fome of the Lauderdale family, at one time proprietors of the land around. Magda- lene pans, and Magdalene bridge, are fappofed to have been named from a neighbouring chapel dedicated to St M^igdalene, fituated in the parifli of Inverefk. The profpcrity and pro- duce of the falc-works, is in a confiderable degree, regulated by the ftate of the coal, of which the following article treats* A few years ago, the number of falters with the officers em- ployed

368 Siai0tcal Aicomt

ployed in the work^ amounted to 17. Tlietr lab<yurs afforded employment to above 40 carriers, all Women, who retailed the fait in Edinburgh, and through the neighbouring diftrifls. The quantity of fait delivered by- the fix pans, regularly em* ployed, ufed to be about 18,000 bufliels annually.

CoaL — ^Thirteen Teams of coal have been difcovered and wrought upon the eftate of Dudingfton. Thefe are of van* ous qualities, and feme excellent in their kinds. They crop, as indeed the ftrata of all minerals upon this coaft prcferve the fame inclination, to the weft ; the dip or dccHii^ion, is neady at an angleof 45 degreesfrom thehorizon to theeaft, acircumftance which of itfelf rouft always have rendered the working of the coal difficult. Moft of the above feams have bv*en wrought from a very remote period of time, which cannot now be af» certained, where they approach the furface, and as far as a Cmple free level could clear them of wateri Under the Du^ chefs of Argyle, a rude machine compofed of, and namedj chain and buckets ^ was employed to raife the water in the mines from a greater depth. When the property fell into the pofleflion of the late Earl of Abercorn, the coal and fait works were at firft let to Mr Biggar of Woolmet, an enter- prifing man, who opened a level from the fea, and carried it through the eftates of Dudingfton, Niddry, and part of Ed^ monfton, up to Woolmet bank, a powerful drain df above 3 miles in extent, of moft efiential advantage to the more ele- vated coal works of the neighbouring proprietors, but even* tually produ£live of ruin to that of Dudingfton, befides opening the generating fource of interminable law pleas. About the year 1763, the Earl of Abercorn began to ere£l a fteam engine of very confiderable power upon the Dudingfton coailiery, extending its operation to the depth of 52 fathoms* This engine was rendered ufclefs in 1790, when on the 20th

of

of March the whole feams of coal were overflowed and ch6ak« ed from the comnQianication of the level with the higher grounds. Before this period another engine of greater power, and upon a new conftru£lion *, had been erected near the fouthern boundary of the pariih to work the coal of Brun* ftane which lies beyond its limits. The (baft of this engine pit reaches to the depth of 60 fathoms, and tntcrfeAs three feams of coal^ the firft 7 feet thick> the next 9, and the lafl: 15. The other materials through which it defcendsi are chiefly very deep ftrata of a coarfe red free-ftone> fdme of day» and neareft to the coal a kind of pyrites fchift, which the workmen call bands of bleas. The porous quality of the free-ftone rock, the number of cutters, and above all the inaufpicious #ommunication of the fatal level, admit fuch an influx of water, as has all along rendered this undertaking fingularly laborious and expenfive, and at laft reduced it to a very languifliing condition. The number of coalliers, bear- ers, and other workmen employed at the coalliery before 1790, ufed to* be about 270. The number is now great- ly reduced. If the working of the Dudingfton coal ftiouid ever be revived, it will require the aid of two (team engines of very great power to carry it on with any fuccefs. If both thefe coallieries (hould be finally abandoned, though there be fttll much coal not yet exhaufted in the neighbour« Voi. XVilL 3 A hood^

* The boilers arc of a fqnare form, loftcad of the ufoal fphcrical (hape, ivhUb has beea fuppofed to be beft calculated to refift the prefTure of the at- mofphere without, and of the Oeam within, to cxpofe a more extenfiyc fur- face for the production of (learn and the generation of heat. The cylinder IS 65 inches in diameter, 9 feet the Aroke in the cylinder, and 7 in the pumps; the beam i% feet infide, 9 feet 9 inches outHde. The working barrel 16 inches diameter. Ten ftrokcs are made in the minute, and each (Iroke dtfli- Ters 60 gallons of water.

370 StaH^ai Account

hood, thts may tend to raife confiderably tBe pf ice of that iqdportant vrtide, a temporary dearth of which was lately fo fcTerely felt in the dty and neighbourhood of £din« burgh. Of fuch unwelcome interruptions of the public fuppltes of fuel, and of the feriout inconveniences which they produce, there are caufes which are not perhaps at* tended to fo much as they deferre. Since the period «whei\ the coalliers were emancipated by the interpofition of the legiflatufc from that ftate of yillainagei by which, lake the adfcriptitii gliU of feudal tyranny, they had been chained for life to the foil or work upon which they had been bom^ fome condu(£ior8 of coal works for a long period, difco* vered no better methods of binding them to their ferrice^ than by plunging them into debt, or alluring them by difli- pation.-— ^They were in many cafes feduced from their former mafters by more cnterprifing or leCi fcrupulous em* ployers. The debts^ contraded in the work which they were to leave, were paid, and a premium fuperadded, which they were tempted, like the infatuated raw recruit, to fpend in immediate intemperance. More money was often injudi- ciottfly lent them, in the vain hope, that the deeper they were involved in debt to their new mafters, the more clofely would they be incited to labour, and the longer they fliould be conftrained to remain at their new talk. But inftead of this, the men, as a little lefs (hallow policy might eaGIy have forefeen, in fuch cafes have become difpirited at the view of the debts in which they have been fo haftily and often fo unintentionally plunged; and at laft defpairing evertodif« charge them, they fink into obftinate indolence, defpondence, or profligacy ; or they fairly run oflF from the work, and re- pair by ftealth to fome new contractor, who, though aware of their obnoxious condition, winks at the crick, and, when dif- covered, perhaps pays the fatal debt, and enfurcs the repeti*

tion

of Dudingflon. 371

tion 'of the fame fraudulent retribution againft hlmfetfn Thus at laft,. either from the ftubbomefs of defpair, the reliih for bribes and indulgences, and the habitual tafte for extravagance fo imprudently foftered^ the men get into their rebellious moods, and refufe to work without fome new bribe, of perhaps unlefs their wages be raifed in propor^- tion to the increafe of price, to which their mailers may have chofen to raife the coal itfelf. There is another circumftance, which, though it docs not fo much corrupt the morals of the perfons concerned, contributes however to aggravate th^ dearth, and to raife irregularly the price of coals. When it is prefumed that the demand and the price of this article will rife confiderably in the market, a mul- titude of carters and coal drivers abandon their common occu- pations, flock to this new trai&c, and become the carriers, in the hope of an advanced and exorbitant profit. As it is impoffible to fupply this fudden increafe of carriers with immediate freights, many of them are compelled to ftand all night, and fometimes all day to boot, upon the hills, waiting their turns for loading. Upon their cart load, they are afterwards compelled to lay not only the ordinary price of carriage, but this extraordinary expence of attendance and riik; while it is evident, that half the number of carts might remove all the produce of the pits in the fame time, and find regular employment with moderate and lefs hazardous gains. Convenient remedies for thefe errors might be eafily difcover- ed and profitably applied.

Mimralsy Vegetables^ Animals* — —The foifils, plants, and animals, which occur in this parifh, with a few exceptions, are the ^me with thofe which are common in all the diftritfls a- rmind. The ftrata of lime-ftone, iron-ftone, 2cc. which run through the adjoining pariftes of Newton, Liberton, &c. al-

3 A a fo

37 2 Stai0$cal Account

fo inttvfc&s that of Dudingfton. They dip into the fea %« bout or near to its eaftem extremity, and arc faid to have been recognized again on the oppofite coafl: of Fife. Qaarrtes of grit and free*ftone have been opened upon the fea fliore, and of whin, or bafaltic rock> near the fituation of the church* Detached ftrata of clay have been wrought, fo pure and un* mixed with heterogeneous matter, that crucibles, bricks, &c. formed of it are cs|pable of refitting a very great degree 6f heat. In the bed of Dudingfton bum, there is a ftratum of black coloured ftone, foft, froooth, and unfiuous in appear- ance, which, as it admits of an agreeable poliih, might be converted to ufeful archite&ural purpofes if wrought below the crop rock, and treated with fkill. Petroleum, or fo(BI pitch, and manganefe in fmall quantities, have alfo been found in the crevices of the free-ftone quarries. Upon the fea coaft, in the interftices of rocks and (tones, curious and rare fpeci* mens of petrified plants and trees have been foUnd. Some of them refembled the fineft Marfeilles quilting : others formed the evident petrifaAions of reeds and exotic plants, now known to be indigenous in tropical regions only ; a circumftance which as it has fometimes occurred fo unaccountably in nor- thern climates, has given rife to fo much ingenious fpecula* tion, and to fo many extravagant theories. Small pieces of chalcedony, porphyry, and agate in larger maires,have alfo been picked up upon the beach of the Forth, the: boundary of the pariih. Many of thefe have been polifhed, and preferved in the cabinets of the curious; and few remnants have efcaped- the avidity of coUeflors in fo pubKc and acceffible a fpot. Marie of different kinds and great richnefs, hasbe^n found in great abundance in Dudingfton loch, the property of Sir Wil* liam Dick, and occafionally wrought, though from the vicini. ty of the place to the unfailing ftores of ftrong Edinburgh ma- nure, it has been undervalued and negleded.

The

tf Dudingjion. 373

The botanift may find more fcope for the gratification of Us tafte in this di(lri£i:, than the mineralogift. The fields indeed which have been long in a ftate of cultivation, only exhibit naturally the common weeds* which bring both mor- tification and ftimulus to the induftry of the hufbandman* The fea-coaft produces but a few of the plants which are moft frequent upon every beech. • It is only the roots or Ikirts of Arthur's Seat, that defccnd within the limits of this pariHi. The mountain itfelf, contains above 400 fpecies of plants f a number much beyond what Mr Lightfoot has afcribed to it in his Flora Scottica. But thefe, with its other treafures and beauties, foffil, pi£turefque, and hiftorical, will proba- bly elude defcriptipn in the prefent great ftatiftical undertak- ing, as no perfon may think it within his province to in- clude them in his inveftigations* Dudingfton loch ;ilone affords a curious variety of indigenous plants. Of thefe, the moft remarkable among the fubmerfed fpecies, or, as they are technically termed, the Inundatae ; are Mareftail', or Hypuris vulgaris, Potamogiton natans,— pcrfoliatum, — ^lucens,— crif- pum,**-denfum, graminium, &c. Stratiotes aloides, Myrio- phyllum fpicatum, and Ranunculus aquatilis. Among the marfiiy, which are alfo often inundated, technically termed the Paluftrae, are the ,Reed-grafs, Arundo phragmitis, Scir- pus paluftris, Menianthes trifoliata^ Hydrocotyle vulgaris, biuin anguftifolium, ParnaiEa paluftris, Triglochen paluitre, Alifmil plantago, Epilobium ipaluftre and-^hirfi^tum. Poly- ganum amphibiuro, Lychnis flos cuculi, Geum riviile. Coma- rum paluftre. Ranunculus lingua, — fceleratus,— hederaceus, Caltha paluftris, Cardamine pratenfis, Sifymbrium aquaticum, and — amphibium, Tuflilago farfara, — and Petafites, Bidens, ^arganium ere£lum and — natans, Equifetum paluftre and -^fluviatile. The chief economical or agricultural ufes which this beautiful aflemblage of plants has hitherto ferved, is,

when

374 Statijiical Account

when by their decay and refolution, they fubfide to the bor^^ torn of the lake, and contribute to form a rich atid biack mud^ which has been found upon trial, to conftitute an excellent ma- nure. The Trefoil (Menianthes trifoliata), is generally gather- ed carefully in the month of June, for medicinal purpofes, by the emiflaries of the laboratories. The Reeds, which grow at the weft end of the lake in great luxuriance and plenty, and.- cover above five acres of ground, have been employed by weavers to fupply their looms ; and form, befides, a moft valuable thatch for any fpecies of houfes, which by the ftrength and hardnefs of the fibres, rcfifts the attacks of fpar- rows, mice, and the common vermin which infeft and deface ftraw roofs ; and for the fame reafons, will laft incomparably longer than any common thatch ; while a fmaller quantity will fufRce for the fame work, and form a light, firm, and durable roof.

Of the animals, fifti, and birds of this difl.ri£l, nothing fin* gular or uncommon is to be remarked. Foxes from the neigh- bouring hill or plantations fometimes invade the farm-yards. A folitary badger at times may provoke a (lubborn chace and conteft. Otters ufcd to frequent Dudingfton loch, and co- lonies of rabbits, the fandy knolls near the fea-coaft. SeaU^ porpoifes, crabs, &c. are often fcen upon the (hore. Curlews, gulls, cormorants, and the common fea-fowl that frequent the Forth, vifit the coaft ; and fometimes make incurfions to the inland country. The cormorant efpecially, not unfrc- quently extends his depredations to the fifti of Dudingftoa loch. Tliis lake is in fummer covered with flocks of coots, which when young, form a tolerable variety for the table. They remain till the clofing of the ice totally excludes thcwi from the water, when they emigrate to the fea, and rttura with the firft thaw. Wild duck, teal, and water hens, alfo frequent the lake. Swans, originally imported tame, breed 2 in

of Dudifi^Jlon. 375

in It prolificaltf 9 and form one of its pifturefque ornaments. The fifh ^yrliieh^are found in the lake, are pike, perch, and a profufion of eels ; twenty dozen of which have been killed in an eveninjr, by the aid of a barbed fpear, trident, or rather fexdent* Carp and tench had been imported by the Earl of Abercom, to (lore his canals and ponds ; but have now for .the moft part been deftroyed by the pike, or waflied away by the floods. The fi(h and (hells of the neighbouring fea are alfo the fame which are common on the (hores of the Forth. Scalps of excellent oyders, are faid to lie oppdfite to the PortobeUo beach. Muficls, fpout or razor fi(h, are alfo gathered in the neighbourhood. Sometimes the cuttle fifii^ (fepio foligo of Linnseus)> and what the Scots fifliermen deno** minate the pocket or hoze fi(h are caught upon the (hore ; the feelers or antennx of which are faid to have been in fuch high requeft at the Roman tables. The fea hedge-hog, another article of ancient luxury, (echinus ^efculens of Lin- naeus), is alfo found upon the fands. And in a foft black rock, oppoEte to the fait- works ; and loflng itfelf in the fea, may be obferved, multitudes of tliat (ingular animal which Lidnseus has named Folus candidus, which perforates rocks, and forms its habitation within their ftrong munitions.

AntiquUus. — Though Froiflart affirms that there were above 100 chateaux in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, in the time of Queen Mary, and though this parifh be fituated fo near to the metropolis, no rum of caftle, camp« or tower, can now be traced within its limits. The church is certainly a building of confiderable antiquity* Dr Littleton, when Bifhop of Carlifle, and upon a viGt to the lord of the manor, concluded probal*iy from the (lru£lure of the arches, and the flile of the ornaments, that it mu(t have been the work of the Saxons* There is no record, however, authority or date,

bjr

37<S Statijlical Account

by which we can venture to afcribe its origin to fo remote a period. Under the bellfry, there appears a date beginning 5 1 ; but of which the remaining cyphersi and other infcrip* tion, are now obliterated. Some years ago, in dragging the marie of Dudingfton loch, the head and boms of a ilag^ fome coins, the infcriptions of which were effaced, the blade of a fword, and the heads of fome fpears and jatelins, all from their ftrufiure and materials believed to be Roman, were difcovered. Some of thefe were fent to the mufeum of the King, fome were prefented to the Antiquarian Society^ and fome are. preferved in Preftonfield houfe. In the adja- cent meadow, in the opening of drains and ditches, under the firft ftrata of mbfs and gravel, have been found wrecks of oak trees, hazel bu(hes and nuts ; and the almoft confamed iron of horfe ihoes of different dimenfions. At the mouth of Dudingdon or the Figget burn, have alfo been obferved, im« merfed in a deep ftratum of clay, the trunks of large oak trees, which when cut or broken, have been found black as ebony to the heart. They may perhaps be remnants of the Ring's foreft to the eaft of Edinburgh, in which, it appears, by the original charter of ere£lion of the monaftery of the Holy Crofs, the Monks obtained a privilege to fend their hogs to feed. \A caufeway of conGderable antiquity forms upon the north-eaft the boundary of this parifh % and is conjeAor- ed by fome, to be a remnant of one of thofe regular roads which the unfortunate Mary is faid to have been fo attentive to encourage, for the improvement of her rude kingdom* Several roads of this kind, converged to the palace of Holy rood houfe, and this which now bears the name of the Fifli- wife's caufeway, once formed a part of the great pod- road to London. The boroughs of Linlithgow and Peebles, are~alfo faid to have been bound to uphold this caufeway ; and it is known to have been a commgn pradlicc of the above-men- tioned

of Dudifigjlon. 37^

tloned Qa^cn, to allow to bodies corporate, and even to pri- rate individuals, grants of certain privileges, immunitie^y &c. on the condition of their making and upholding particu- lar roads and paths.

RemarlaBle Events ^ CharaBers^ isfc. — Tradition fays, that the Figgct whins, formerly a forcft, afforded fhelter and a place of rendezvous to Sir William Wallace and his myt"- midons,, when they were preparing to attack Berwick. The fame doubtful chronicle reports a circumftance which is confirmed by the more refpeflable authority of private letters^ though it has not' found a place in the hiftories of the time^* Before the battle of Dunbar, the leaders of the Scots demand- ed a conference with the ufurpcr Cromwell ; he confented to meet them on the morrow, half way between the Leith and Muflelbnrgh rocks, at low water, upon the fands, each party to be accompanied with loohorfcmen. Any qucllion they might choofe to propofe, he agreed to anfwcr ; but declined admitting of any animadverfion or reply. A part of this cu- rious but unfucpefsful conference is reported to have been in thefe words. ** Why did you put the king to death ?*' " Bie* ** caufe he was a tyrant, and dcfervcd death.** " Why did ** you diffolve the parliament ?" " Becaufe they were greater ** tyrants than the king, and required diffolution."— -At a latef period, while the ill fated Charles-Edward, the grandfon of Cromweirs viftim, paraded his fhort-lived royalty in Holy- roodhoufe palace, in 1745, his fcanty forces were encamped for above a month, to the eaft of the village of Dudingfton ; and many of the inhabitants remember the arts which their leaders employed to magnify their appearanccf, and to raifc their own importance, and the bitter regret which the men cxpreffed for having been impelled by their chieftains into their raih, but at that time not unpromifing, attempt. A Vol. XVllI. 3 B phenomenon

]

378 Siatijiical Account

phxnomenon of a different kind, not effected by the diforders of the moral, but the convulfions of the natural world, was obferved near the fame fpot, and about the fame period; though it has not been recorded in the common produQions of the time. On the 13th September, 1744, a water-fpout broke upon the top of Arthur's feat, and dividing its force, difcharged one part upon the weftern fide, and tore up a. channel or chafm, which dill remains a monument of its violence ; the other divifion took its dire£lion towards the village of Dudingflon, carried away the gable of its moft t

wcfterly cottage, and flooded the loch over the adjacent I

meadows. 1

Some charaders have appeared in tliis pari(h, not unwor- 'j

- thy of notice. About the period of the overthrow of the |

Monarchy, or prior to the Reftoration, the parfon of Duding* fton, (the Epifcopal form then prevailed,) was named Moo* teath. Having been fo unmindful of his chara£ter and office, |

as to engage in an illicit amour with a lady of rank in the ij

neighbourhood, he found himfelf neceflitated to fly from the S

fccne of his difgrace and degradation. He repaired to France, I

and immediately applied for employment to the celebrated Richlieu. He told him, he was of the Monteath family in Scotland. The Cardinal remarked, that he was well ac* quaintcd with the Monteaths, and defired to know to what branch of the family he pertained. The exiled parfon, whofe father had been a plain fiflierman in the falmon trade of the Forth, fomewhcre above Alloa, readily anfwcr- '

ed that he was of the Monteaths of Salmon net. Richlitra acknowledged, that he had not heard of that branch; but |

admitted with becoming candour, that notwithilanding his ignorance, it might be a very illuftrious family. He re- ceived Monteath to his patronage ; and foon advanced him to be his fccretary, in which Gtuation he wrote and pub-

liflied

of Dudingjlon. 3 79

li(hed fome eflays which were admired in that age, as fpe- cimens of the remarkable purity of ftile and facility of diflion, to which a foreigner could attain in the Trench language. His chief work was, ** La Hiftoire des Troubles / dc la Grande Bretagnc depuis/' &c ; par J. M. de Sal- ** monet. A Paris : The firft edition without a date, pro- l)ably 1672- Mr David Malcolme was miniftcr of Duding- fton, prior to the I74i. He had addifted 4iimfelf to the ftudy of languages and antiquities, was received a member of the London Antiquarian Society, and publiftied eflays and letters, Edinburgh 1739. Thefe difplay a confiderabje knowledge of the Celtic and Hebrew languages, and were chiefly intended to form an introdu6tion to his great but unfinifhed undertaking of a Celtic Didtionary. They are commended by Mr Pinkerton, and quoted with refpedl by Gebclininhis "Monde Primitif," andBullet in his " Memoires ** Celtiques." Pollock was fucceflbr of Malcolme in the benefices \ but was foon removed to Aberdeen, as ProfeflTor of Divinity. Names higher in rani; and fame than thefe might alfo be recorded, to add fome celebrity to Dudingfton. Tlic celebrated John and Archibald, fucceflive dukes of Ar- gyle, pafied much of their time, and it is faid, received a part of their education with their mother, who refided con- ftantly in this village, prior to the 1734* The late Earl of Abercorn ma,de this his favourite refidence ; and formed of it a kind of new creation ; a Nobleman, whofe charafter was little known, or rather little underftood ; but who pof* feflc.d Angular vigour of mind, integrity of conduft, and patriotic views. The late Sir Alexander Drck was univcifal- ly known, and efteemed for his general literature, public fpirit, and urbanity of manners.

3 B ^ Church

3 So Statijlical uiccount

Cburrb, Schoalsj Poor, t5*r.— The probable antiquity of the church has already been noticed. Its prefent appearance re- dounds not fo much to its praife. The feats in the lower part of the church are in a tottering and ruinous ftatei though the pews in the galleries wear a refpe£table afped. It would not require much expence to render the whole both commodious and elegant. A very beautiful femicircular arch divides the choir from the chancel, and the walls and roof are in a very refpeflable (late. An elegant marble obelilk ftands in the church-yard, a monument to the late Patrick Haldane, £fq* of Gleneagles, to crcft which, L. 200 ftcr. were configned by his unfortunate grandfon, whofe fate is recorded and fculp« tured upon the fame pile. The manfe is delightfully fitua* ted, and tolerably commodious. The ftipend is in money L. 73 : 12:9, and in grain, three chalders. The public fchool- houfe is inconvenient and ill conilru£lcd ; and the proviiion for the teacher, as has fo often been lamented in fimilar cafesj is deplorably diminutive and inadequate to the importance and fuccefsful exercife of the 9ffice. The legal falary is L. 9 per ann. The pcrquifites arifing from the conjoined office of feflSon clerk, and the fchool fees, may one year with other, a- mount to L. 16 *, in all L. 25 per ann. The ufual number of fcholars is about 40. The fees per quarter, Latin and arith- metic, 2s. 6il. reading of Englifh and writing, 2s. reading of Englifh alone, is. 6d. or as it is commonly paid by the children of the labouring pcoplct who form the great proportion of the fchool, I id. per week. Another fchool, (ituated in Eafter Dudingfton, was originally ere£led by the tenants in the neighbourhood, and is now fupported by a fmall contribution, and the ordinary fees of teaching. A funday fchool has alfa been tried in the eaftern dtftrift of the parifh, and has of late been attended with confiderable fuccefs. For the fupport of the poor, no rate or affcflmcnc has yet been impofed. The

common

^f Dudingjiott^ gS f

common coUeclionsatthe churchdoor, with the Otherufaalre* fources of fuch re venue^ have been made to fuffice, ho werer inade* quateto theobjef):. The coUe£lion8uredtoamounttoaboutL.27 iter, perann. From feat rentf^ marriages, andfunerak, L« 13 more are raifed. Of late, from fome incidental caufes which are not of a regularly produ^ive or liable nature, they hare confiderably increafed. At prefcnt there are 13 poor on the roily who receive 2S, 28 6d, 3s, and 48 per month. Families in diftrefs are occafionally fupplied from the funds *•

Population — ^The ftatc of population has been for fome time very variable* From the late interruptions and threatened decay of the coal works, a great body of the people employed in them have removed to fcenes more favourable to the re- gular and durable exercife of their occupations. In one vil- lage alone, Joppa, which was folely inhabited by coalliers, above 30 houfes have been deferred, or fuiFered to fail to ruin, within the fpace of the laft 4 years. To counterbalance in part, this deficiency of population, feveral families of new manufaAurers, &c. have in the fame period fettled in Porto* beliOj Sec. A migratory colony, befides, of bathers, fummcr lodgers, &c. upon the fame coaft, continue every year to in* crcafe their numbers. But thefe cannot with propriety be

rated

* A fond, or box as it is cotnironly named, is alfo fupported in this tind fome of the neighboaring parilhes, by the coalliers and carters, for the main- tenance chiefly of their ficlc or difabled members. Little or nothing is pro> Tided for their v^idows or furviving children. But, if the fcheme were placed upon a more liberal and advantageous footing : were its objef^s in (bme fenie rererfed, and its chief expenditure devoted to the fupport of the widows and orphans, indead of being confumed in expenHve funerals, and engrolTed in the /elfilh fuftenance of the fuhfcribers themfeUes, it might liecomc a truly vahi- fbic and praifeworthy edablKhmcnt.

382 Statijiical Account

ratedamong the edabliQied inhabitants of theparllh. By the ac« counts returned to DrWcbfter in 1755, ^^^ number was 989. . In the year 1 794, the number of fouls was found to be 910, of whom there were 478 males, and 482 females. Births the fame year, 45. Deaths cannot fo accurately be afcertain- ed» as they are not reglftrated by thofe who belong to the affo- ciations, or boxes of carters, &c. No individual of very great age at prefent lives in the parifh ; but there are 7 per- fons above 80, in vigorous health ; one of whom verges to« wards 90.

CbaraSiir of the Inhahiianij. ^-^-^Tht people In general of the pariihes in the immediate vicinity of the metropolis, are neceffarily of a very mixed character, and too frequently more corrupted comparatively, in the lower ranks, than in fituations more remote, and lefs expofed to the contagious efFe£ls of fuch a neighbourhood. In every country, perfons employed in the adlive exercifes of hufbandry, have generally difplayed an inofFen five fimplicity, and laudable regularity of manners. For this charaftcr they have probably been much indebted to the order which they are obliged to obferve in all ' their proceedings, to the returning, continued regularity of their employment, to the moderate but uniform profits which they draw from their labours, and to their happy feclutioa from evil communications and fcenes of corruption. The labourers and hufbandmen of this di(lri£l: preferve rhe fame general charafter, though the ifrequent and unavoidsible in- tercourfe with the city which they are ncceffitated to maintain, has not been without its polluting cfFcds, Coalliers have ge- nerally exhibited a dircft contrail to this fimplicity and re- gularity of manners *, and where they have not enjoyed the lingular advantages of prudent dire£lors and wholcfome difci- pline, they have been unhappily too often dxflinguyhed by

rud.enc&t

of Dudirigjiori. 383

Tudencfs) diforder, and profligacy. The degrading opera* tion of that (late of villainage from which they have fo re« cently efcaped> the corrupting tendency of that injudicious management by which they have (ince been influenced^ their irregular and fometirpes exorbitant gains> which r.t one time overflocks, and at another (larves them, and which common- ly puts it in their power, by the fruit of three days labour, to pafs the reft of' the week in abfolute idlenei^, or in fottifli in- dulgence; nay, the very darknefs, dirt, and.unreftrained in- tercourfe which prevails in their fubtetraneous regions, un* awed by the eyes or the opinions of the world above, may all combine tp produce or to aggravate this degradation pf man- ners. In the coaliicry of Dudingfton, there have been fomc ' agreeable exceptions to this general dcfcription, though its application to the prevalent hue of fuch fccncs of darknefs, is too legitimate and congruous. Manufafturcs of every kind have commonly been tRought unfavourable to purity of manners. The profits which they afford are greater, and more irregular than thofe of hufbandry. In truth, wherever men are colledled together in confiderable numbers, cor- ruption is generated \ and as there will probably be fome amongft them found of depraved manners, the contagion is too apt to fpread around. Where the conduQors themfelves arc men of fleady principle, or where the more refpeftablc workmeii acquire an afcendency, a fpirit of ferious enquiry, arid ftriA behaviour is fometimes introduced among the ma- nufa£lures, which may tempt the world to call them too good. And where the reverfe takes place, a fpirit of licen- tioufnejTs and diforder will prevail, which even the indulgent morality of the world may pronounce to be too bad. Of both thefc defcriptions of characters, the manufacturers of this diftri£l afford examples. Though fuch moral and fecondary caufes may thus tend to communicate a general complexion

or

^94 Statijlical Account

or coloar to the manners of a country, profeffion, or family^ tlie fpirit of religion may certainly powerfully countem£l the enl peculiar to each fituation» or improye and perfe£t the good. The fpirit of religion,' however, is not fo prevalent or general in this place, as to produce effe£l8 which can be very oftenfibly vifible, or extenfively feU, A great propoiv lioa of the people, however, are regular and decent in their attendance upon religious exercifes, and difplay a conefpon* dent pra£tice in the integrity, uftfulnefs and beneficence of their common condudl. The more defedive are certainly, in the language of the ufual comparative and confolatory apolo* {tes of the world, not worfe than their neighbours.

NUMBER

of St. Ninians. 385

NUMBER XIV. PARISH OF St. NINIANS-

(county of STIRLING.)

By the Rev. Mr Sheriff.

Name*

nr^HE ancient name of this parlfti was Eggles The ap. '*- pellation is derived from the eminence of the place of worlhip, ecclejta^ by which the parifli was diftinguifticd. The modern name, both of the parifK and of its principal village, St. Ninians, is derived from St. Ninian, whofe hif- tory is not certainly known. The following conjecture is, however, fufficiently probable to give fome gratification \.o the curious. According to Buchanan *, Dongardus fuc- ceeded to the kingdom of Scotland in the year 452. About this period, the Scottifli ecclefiaftics were infe£ted with the Pelagian hcrefy. Palladius was employed by Ccleftine to oppofe the Pelagians : and Ninianus is metitioned among his difciples, as highly diftinguifhed, both by the extent of his learning and the fanftity of his life. I'he character of Vol. XVIII. 3 C thofc

» Book 5th.

586 Statijlical Account

thofe times gives fufficient rea'fon to believe, that Ninian was afterwards canonized : and as no other faint of that name occurs in our hiftory, it is not unreafonable to conclude, that St. Ninian's Row ,in Edinburgh, St. Ninian's Well in this place, as well as this pariih and village, received their appel- lations in honour of this pious reformer.

It is not necelTiry co fuppofe that the parifli adopted the name of the faint immediately after his death, or even imme- diately after his canonization. In our own times, new build- ings have afTumed the names of ancient faints \ whilft a char* ter, belonging to the abbacy of Cambuflcennetb, furniihes a reafon for limiting the prefent name of the parifh to the lat- ter years of the papal fupremacy in Scotland.

The names of the other villages are generally of EngUfli ei^ tra£lion. To this clafs, belong Newmarket, Mil town, Char- terfliall, Clayhills, Newhoufe, and Bannockbum. Fow- milne and Folmaife appear to be derived IxompoUf a provia- cial word, fignifying a watery place. From the Gaelic we muft learn the meaning of fuch names as thefe : Touch, Touch-adam, Touch*gorm, Auchenbowie, and Auchenlilly, Linfpout.

S//tfj/i/i.*— The parifli befongs to the fynod of Perth and Stirling, and to the prcfbytery of Stirling^ It is bounded on the eaft by tlie paridi of Airth ; #h the fouth, by Lar- bart, Dunipace, and Kilfyih ; on the weft, by Fintry and Gargunnock ; the river Forth, if the fmall fpace occupied by the parifli of Stirling be excepted, feparates it on the north from Kincardine, Lecropt, Logie, and Alloa.

Extent. — The road between Powbridge, the eaftorn extre- mity of the parifli, and Randy ford, the weftem extremity, meafures between 15 and 16 miles : but as the figure of the

pari(h

I

I-

1

I

.

qf^ St. Ninians. 387

pariQi is irregular, its extent may be computed, at a medi« urn, about 10 miles from eaft to weft, and about 6 miles from north to foutlu '

The appearance of the Parijb ancient and modern. — ^Thc pa- rifh is naturally divided into three regions. The moft nor- therly divifion is called the Carfes* The carfes are flat lands lying along the banks of the Forth, from the caft to the weft end of the pariQi*: thefe lands, in a plain but a little raifed a« bove the level of the Forth, extend fouthward from one to two or three miles.

The dryfield lands form the middle diviGon. Thefe rife fuddenly and conGderably above the level of the carfes, and occupy by much the moft extenfive part of the parifli. Tlie muirlands form the higheft region and the moft foutherly di- Tifion. They rife confiderably above the level of the dryfield grounds, and occupy, it is fuppofed, fomewhat more than a fourth part of the whole extent of the parifti.

It is highly probable, that not only a great part of the dry- field lands, but that a great part of the muirlands alfo was originally covered with wood. The royal foreft of Dun- daflp muft have^veted the high lands, which are fttli cal- led by the name of the lands of DundafF. The royal foreft of Stirling muft have covered the rifing grounds to the fouth of that town. An extenfive mofs renders it pro- babje, that even the low lands of the parifli, efpecially to the north eaft, were once covered»with trees. There can be no doubt, that at an early period, the Torwood occupied much of the lands of the parifti to the eaft and to the fouth eaft.

The limits of the carfe and dryfield lands, ftill aflTume the general appearance of the banks of a river, and give plaufibi- lity to an opinion, that the carfe lands were originally covered

3 C ^ by

388^ Statijlkal Account

by the water of the Forth. Biit be this as it may, tlie hifto* ry of the battle of Bailnockburn, gives fufficient evidence that the carfes, in the Reign of King Robert Biucei formed an almoft impaffible moraf • i

It is by no means probable, that the exertions of art were ^

much employed in improving the briginal apprarance of the ^

parifli. We have few monuments of antiquity, except the Roman* caufeway which enters the parifli at the Torwood, and pafies through it in a north- wederly dlre£lion.

The ruins found in the Muirland, near the fource of the Carron, (hould, with fome others in the parifli, have been paflTed over in filence, were they not generally fuppofed to be the remains of a caftle, the refidence of Sir John the Graham, who fell in the battle of Falkirk, defending the liberty of his country, againft the ambition of Edward.

Prefent Appearance. — The prcfent appearance of the parifli is very different from its former ftate ; the face of the country is naturally beautiful, and the natural beauty of the hills and vallies is increafed by the windings of the Forth, by innu- merable inclofures, by many young thrivin plantations, by a variety of villages, and by feveral genteel hflnes, appearing in different parts of the parifli.

The carfes are now efleemed' as valuable as any land in North-Britain. They have already attained the higheft de- gree of modern cultivation ; and generally produce luxuriant crops of wheat, barley, oats, peas, beans, flax, and artificial graflcs.

The dryfields arc in general arable, and have likewife reach- ed a conflderable degree of cultivation. They produce the fame crops with the carfes ; though the produce of the latter be generally fupcrior to the produce of the former, both in quantity and quality.

The

tf Su Ninians. 389

The muirlands are in general mod profitably employed in rearing black cattle and (heep ; though in many places they are arable, and might on every farm fupply the quantity of com confumed by the feuars and tenants.

Agriculture in the Carfes,-^ Rotation of Cr^ps.'-^A farm is divided into Gx parts* The firll part is laid down in fallow, the fecond part in wheat, the third in beans, the fourth in barley, the fifth in grafs, the fixth in oat^. The rotation on each of thefe fix parts is the fame, viz. fallow, wheat, beans, barley, grafs, oats. The only difference confids in the crop with which the rotation begins* The firft part begins witk fallow, &c. according to the prcfent condition of the land.

Tillage. The fallow whilft preparing for a crop of

wheat, is ploughed fix times, if the weather be favourable | the fields for beans or oats once, for barley thrice or four times \ grafles are ufually fown with the barley.

JJfflffwrf.— Eight chalders of lime are allowed to an acre* The lime is thrown on the fallow after the fifth plowing, and immediately before the fixth plowing, when the M-hcat is fown. Dung is laid on the ground that is preparing for barley ; feventy carts ate allowed to an acre. No other ma- nure, for the molt part, is employed during one rotation of fix years.

Seed and Produce. — ^Two firlots of wheat fown on an acre, • return from eight to ten bolls. Three firlots of barley fown on an acre, return feve'n bolls. One boll or five firlots of pats fown on an acre, return fix or feven bolls. Five or fix firlots of beans fown on an acre, return feven or eight bolls. Two firlots of rye grafs, with Cx or eight pound? of clover

fown

39<^ Statiftical Account

fown on an acre, ufually return about 200 floncs of hay. The carfc farmers ufually confine thcmfelvcs to one crop of grafs.

Seid'timef t^c* Beans are fown about the beginning of

March ; oa^ts about the latter end of March ; barley about tb^ latter end of April » vheat fome xmt before or about the firft of November. *

Hanreft ufually begins about the middle of Auguft, and ends about the lad of September.

The cultivation of the dryficld lands is fomewhat difierent from the cultivation of the carfes. The fucceiEon of crops in the dryfield is commonly in the following order; Oats two years, barley one year, grafs one year, pafture two years. Where the ground is very good, peas and beans inftcad of oats are fometimes fown in the fecond year of the rQ« tation*

Land preparing for oats, peas or beans, is ploughed. once. Ground for barley twice. Grafies are ufually fown with the barley.

Lime is laid on the dryfield lands in the month of Augufi, immediately after the grafs crop is cut. It is not ploughed down. Seven chalders are allowed to an acre. Dung is laid on the ground, preparing for barley; fixty carts drawn by one horfe, are allowed to an acre* When beans and peas are fown, the dung is laid upon the ground preparing for them. Neither more nor other manure is almoft ever ufed during one rotation of fix years. There is marie in the parifli, but the ufe of it has of late been almoft entirely difcontinued.

Five firlots of oats fown on an acre, return feven bolls. Three firlots of barley fown on an acre, return feven bolls. Five firlots of peas and beans fown on an acre, return fix or ft^ven bolls. Half a boll of rye-grafs feed, and eight pounds

of

\

of ^u Ninians. 391

of red, and four pounds of white clover feed fown on an acre, return aoo (tones of hay.

Oats are fown about the middle of March. Barley about the beginning of May. Beans about the firft of March.,

Oats and beans are reaped about the middle of September. Barley about the latter end of Auguft.

When wheat is fown on the dryfield lands, which is not generally done, the preparation, excepting two plowings^ is the fame as in the carfcs.

The carfe land is too wet during winter, for the profitable cultivation of turnips \ they are fometimes fown on the dry« ' fields.

A few potatoes are planted by almoft every farmer, whe- ther in the carfes or in the dryfields. Three bolls planted on an acre return about fixty bolls. A little flax sdfo is generally fown after potatoes. Twelve pecks of Untfeed fown on an acre, return thirty fix (tones of lint from the mill. Di(Fc- rent kinds of plotighs are ufed. The price alfo varies' from 12$. to L. 2 : 128 : 6d. Two horfes are ufually put to a plough \ and are fufficient to cultivate a farm of thirty acres.

It need hardly be added, th^t thefe ftatements have been made at an average, and muft frequently and confiderably vary according to the circumdances of particular feafons, and of different farmers. '

Roads. — Seven miles of the great turnpike road from Edin- burgh to Stirling, five or fix miles of the turnpike road from Stirling to Glafgow, about twelve miles of the road from Dunbarton to the ferry near Alloa, lie in this parifh. AJi our roads and bridges are kept in excellent repair by the attention of the country gentlemen. The expenccs are defrayed by the produce of the tolls, or of the ftatute labour.

About

392i Statifticc^l Account

About twelve years ago^ an a£b of parliament was obtained for the better regulation of the ftatute work in the county of Stlrlkig. By that a£l, inftead of ftatute labour, leave is given to aflcfs the land in i8s ftcr. for every L. loo Scots of the valued rent.

Rtvers. — ^The water of Endrick, famous for its trouts, rifes in our muirlands ; and after running weftward through the pariihes of Fintry, Balfron, Killearn». Drymen^ and Buchan- an, empties itfelf into Loch Lomond*

Bannockburn (fo ealledi (Alajoris Hifloria) becaufe on it was made the meal of the bannocks^ or panis cineritius of the Romany ; cakes toafted under the afhes were called bannocks}, receives its water partly from Loch Coulter, and partly from the high lands in the north weft part of the pariih. It takes its courfe towards the north caft, and falls into the Forth with- in the bounds of the parifli. This fmall river might be em- ployed to great advantage by the manufadurer or artifan.

The Carron runs along the fouthern boundary of the pariih for five miles and an half. The Poems of Oflian have mark- cd the banks of this river as the fcene of battle between the Romans and the independent clans of the north.

It has been thought, though it cannot be certainly deter- mined, that the Earl's burn, the Earl's hill, a hill and a rivu- let in the muirland part of the parifli, derived their names from the reCdence of fome feudal baron or earl in the neigh- bourhood of the Carron. It is natural to fuppofe, that Gillies hill, another hill in the muirland part of the parifti, derives its name from the name Gill or Gillies* The names both of Gillies and Morifon occur in the muirlands. It is certain, that the fair lady, mother of Gill Morice, " lived on the Car- ron fulc." This union of fa£ls and probabilities fuggcfts to the imagination, though it cannot perfuade the judgement

that

of St. Ninians. 393

that this pariih was the fcene of the tragical fong, kaowrn by the name of Gill Morice. The Carron was once diftinguifhed by a cafcade jailed AuchintilUlin's fpout« It is now dtftio- guifhed by a.rery extenGVe iron manufa£lory in the parifli of Larbert.

The Forth is the only great river with.which we are con* cerned. It forms the boundary of the parifli on the nofth* The length of the river from Gargunnock where it raeets, to^ Kerfey where it leaves this parifli, is more than fiateen miles> though the diflance betwixt thefe places does not in a ftraight line exceed half that extent. The windings of the Forth iiave been remarked and admired by every traveller of tafte ; but whilft they beautify the country, they render the navigation of t the river peculiarly tedious. A minute defcription of the Forth feems altogether unneceflary, as the Forih or ancient Bodotria is fufficiendy known to every ftudent of Britifli hiflory.

Loch Coulter^ the only conGderable loch in the parifli, ex<* tends about two miles in circumference. It abounds with perches and eelsi and lies in the muirland part of the parifli. It is currently reported, on the evidence of witnefl[es ftill alive, that about twenty-four years ago, by fome convulGon of na- ture, a ftone weighing nearly a ton was thrown from its bed in the loch to the diftance of fome yards to the northward.

The Carron frequently overflows a confiderable traft of meadow and fome arable land on its banks. Some of the low lying lands on tlie banks of the Forth are fubjc£ked to the overflowings of the river. A confiderable farm called BolU for>nought, probably from its being gained from the Forth, is particularly fiibje£k to this inconvenience. The wall with which it is furrounded has fometimes been broken down by the weight of the water, and the greater part of th;$ land over- flowed. . Vol. XVIII. 3D It

|94 SiMiftkal Account

Jt may be proper in this place to obfenre, that Jereral years ago^ a remarkabie water fptmt emptied itfelf, partly on the lands of Touch, and partly on the lands of Touch-adam. The water which fell on the lands of Touchy carried off fome cattle, feveral houfes with their furniture. A few of the inha- bitants were drowned. The water winch fell on the lands of Tonch-adam, direded its courfe towards the Yillage of St. Ninians, and carried off a bridge and two houfesi together with a great quantity of earth from the mini(ler*s glebe and fome other places.

^ No other remarkable phenomena of this kind arc talked off, 'excepting two (hocks of an earthquake, which in one ntghc, about thirty years ago, were Tcry generally felt in the parifli and neighbourhood.

There are feveral mineral fprings in the parifli ; but they are not at preCent much frequented.

We have feveral merchants who retail the articles of ordi- nary confumption.

We have no great manufactories. Four tanneries employ about 20 hands. Four matters employ about 113 hands in making nails. One hand works from 1000 to laoo nails frt day.

:: •■ The moft eonGderable manufacture is carried on at Ban- 1 nockbum. Of late cotton<^cloth, and for a long time, all the ( liartan ufed by the army, has been manufadured at this vil- lage.

:Theffe are three coaUwotk^ in the parifli ; one at Auchen-

bowie, one at Pleanmuir, one at Bannockbum. Thefe works

taken together, raifc about 600 tons of coal per week. They

Supply i^ iidjaceiU:poua,try9 c^^ally to the weft and ncmh,

: .to a very,coiiifijd<rablp,'jCxient.

'.' t Th^.pauflii ^o«nds with lime-ftone. At prefent, however,

itlisinpt wrought to any confidcrable extent, except at Craig-

cnd

0f St. NhAdfu. |9j

end and Mumy's-hail. At Murray^s-haH^ hpm i% to 13 chalders of iime are wronght by about 17 handa. The bure* ing feafon begins about April» and ends about Martinmas. The lime is wrought under^ground, in the fame manner as coal. The feam of lime is from 5 feet 6» to five feet 8 or 10 inches thick. At Craig-end> 16 men and 2horfes arc employed in working yearly about 2000 chalders of lime. The feam at this work, is about 5 feet 8 inches. By a chal- der is ifteant 6 bolls peafe meafure. A chalder of ihells is equal to 18 or 19 bolls of flacked lime. The lime at both thefe works is of the firft quality. An experiment was made at Craig-end ; and in 96 bolls of lime^ there was fcund only one boll of fand*

From 50 to loo hands are ufually employed 10 malting, and in diftiliing aquaritae. There are at lead 6 diftilleries in the parifli. Some of them at prefent, (November 1794,} are not employed.

Prici tf Pravlfiom. — Wheat, 21s per boU, Stirling roeaiure; barley, 193; oats, 14$; peafe, 17s; beans, iSs; potatoes,' 4d per peck; hay, 4d per ftone; beef, 4d^ per lib. mutton, 4d do.^ YCalj 4d ; pork, 3d ; a hen, i s 3d ; a duck, lod ; butter, 9d'per lib. cheefe, 3dT; milk, per pint Scotch, 2d; eggs, per dozen, 4d; whilky, is6d per pint; ftrong beer, ^^\ fmaU beer, per gallon Engliih, 4d ; coal per ton Dutch, 5s 4d ; candle per lib. 6t \ cows grafs for fix months, 30s *, (lone of fmeared wool, 4s 3d ; ftone of white wafhcd woo], 7s ; falmon from 4d to is per lib.

Price of Labour.^ h weaver f4d per day) ihoeaiaker 't4d do; ftocking*maker is; taylor lod with fiAtt^ r carpenter ps per week; cart and plough- wright ^S'{>er Weik{ mafou 2od per day'; bhck-fniith 9s per week; tanner ijd per day;

3 D 2 maltftcr

59^ Stati/iical Account

maltfter 12 guineas with ^vBt'^%^ per annum ; man-fervant per annum, with vi£lualS) L. 9 or 10; nailer I5d per day; wooUcomber I5d ; maid-fervant with viAualSt L. 4 ; day-la- bourer I4d ; gardener I4d ; (later as 3d per day ; cooper per week, with board, 48 ; baker, per annumj with board, L. 1 1 ; fieve- Wright peir week, with board, 3s 6d ; clock-maker per week, with board, ids; wheel^wright do, 4$; miner per week,^ I OS ^ tanners from 98 to 7s per week.

Rent The valued rent of the parifli certified to the

Exchequer in the year 1661, amounted to L* 20,861 Scots. But according to the fubdivifion dated by the Commtffioners of Supply, it does not exceed L. 20,710 of the fame money.

In the year 1775, the minifter applying for an augmenta- tion of ftipend, ftated the real rental of the pariih at L« 12,663 fterling. But as it is certain, that the rent of land, of coal, and of lime, has rifen confiderably (ince that time, the real rental at prefent cannot be computed at lefs than L. 15,000 fterling.

The landholders amount at prefent to the number of 132; 51 have held their property for 14 years; 36 have fucceeded as heirs ; 45 have purchafed their eftates : 25 pof* fefs L. 100 valued rent and upwards; 47 poflefs from L. 20 to L. 100 valued rent ; 60 poiTefs from L* i to L. 20 valued rent.

Meetings of LanJhoMerj.'-^Thek proprietors have in the fchool-houfe a commodious room, where they ufually meet for tranfading bufinefs. Ten days, fa bbaths not included, pre* vious to a meeting of Latidholders, intimation of the time and caufe of the meeting muft be made .by letter, to fuch of their number as dp not refide in the parifti 5 to fuch as refide,

fimilar

, of Su Nimanr. ^

fimilar Intimation is given from the prectnto^s deflc, ^fter divine fcrvice is concluded. ',

Thefe meetings proTide for, and fuperintend the baiUiap and repairing of the church, manfe, fchooi«houfe, manlb«of* fice*houfes, and the walls of the glebe and church-yard. They have a right to infped the expenditure of the funds committed .to the management of the Kirk Seflion. The^. have a right to infpeft the expenditure of vacant ftipend* They have at prefent the principal management of the pro-. viGon made for the poor. They almoft alone nominate to the office of fchool matter; and as landholders- in the pariihy they have a limited right to vote in the eIe£lion pf ininitters* fcrving in the church eftabliflied by law. l^vevy caufe is determined by a majority of votes*. Records of their tranffli:* tions are kept by their clerk, and appeals may be made to the Court of Seffion, from any decifion fuppofed to be illegal or irregulan

The conGderable eftates, arc Touch, Touch-adam, and Polmaife, Sauchie, Bannockburn, Craigforth, Auchenbowie, Stuart-hall, Throflc, Camock, Grunyardd, Plcan, and lands belonging to the town and.hofpitals of Stirling. Few of the proprietors of (hefc efta^es refide in the parifli,

P«>^«/j//o/i.— -^Though the inhabitants of the parifli hairs, been frequently numbered, we arc not able by authentic r^-; eords, to afcertain its ancient populatipn.

In the year i755# the popula^on returned to Dr Webf^er* amounted to 649 1» In 1792, it amounted to 7079. It is beyond a doubt, that the population of the parifti is incrcaf* ing. The decreafe of population. by die uniting of farms ja the country, is more than comptiifafed by the i^cre^fip of the Inhabitants in the villages*

Farmers, —

398 StaHJlUal Account

Farmers. — Some of our fanners hare been favoiired with % liberal education. A few of them have been tnftruAed in the rudiments of the Latin language. Almoft all of them have been taught writing and arithmetic, as well as to read the Englifli language with underftanding and eafe* Mod of tl^em from their earlieft years are inured to manual labour. Nor are the operations of carting, plowing, &c. confined to their earlier years ; many of them always, and moft of them occafionally, lend their perfonal labour to the cultivation of their grounds.

As our farmers in general do not enjo^ the luxuries of af« fluence, fo few of them are fubjedcd to the nuferies of ex* treme poverty. Their diet is ufually frugal ; but occafions are not wanting when they enjoy with temperance the com- forts of the table. Their mental qualifications are not infe- rior to their external advantages. This valuable order of fo- ciety, is in this place diftinguiihed by no inconfiderable de- gree of manly intelligence and general information.

A careful and candid obferver will not deny, that our farmers are in general frugal, induftrious, and moderately happy ; at the fame time he muft acknowledge, that their circumftances might, in many refpc^is, be confiderably improved. It is not altogether without reafon, that they complain of the fmall extent and of die high rents of their farms. Their dwelling houfes, with a few except tions, are confefledly incommodious. Though the veftiges of their original flavery be gradually wearing away, they are not as yet completely effaced. In fome baronies, the far- mers work the hay, and in others, they cart the coals of the landholders. Thirlage is an obvious grievance. Thirlage is a low kind of monopoly by which the tenant is obliged to make all, or fome part of his meal, at one fpecified mill. The confequences of thirlage arc fimilar to the confequcnces 2 of

t>f St. Nifdans. 399

o£ all other monopolies : Fraud, extortion, Infolenee, and inferior workmanfliip* If thefe crimes be feldom coonmitted, the caufe muft be fought in the miller, not in the nature of the monopoly.

ManufaBunrs and ethers, — ^The education and manners <^ our manufa^turars fo nearly refemble the education and man« ners of our farmers, that a defcription of the latter in a great meafure fuperfedes the neceflity of defcribing the former. Though diftinguiflied by fome peculiarities infeparable from their profeflions, our manufaflurers poflefs a degree of en- largement of mind, which refle£ls confiderable honour on the order.

This happy eficd muft chiefly be afcribed to the general caufcs which are every where diffufing an ennobling light through the mais of mankind. In this place, however, (omc other caufes contribute a fubordinate influence to enlighten the minds of our people. The abfence of great manufa^o* ries, by obliging the individual to tranfiiA bufinefs for him- felf, prevents the degradation of mind which invariably follows a minute fubdivifion of labour. Many of our manufaAurers, as well as of our farmers, are admitted to the office of an elder in the different congregations connected with the parifh. The duties and privileges of the office, tend not only to en- large the minds of the elders, but enable them alfo in their interoourfe with others, to extend the fphere of general in* formation. Add to this, that the public bufinefs, in moft of our congregations, is conducted on a very liberal plan. The great body of the congregation is frequently ajfembled and confulted, and the habit of thinking acquires additional ftrength from tlie opinions which, on thefc occafions, are openly propofed and difcuffed.

But

40O StatiJiical Account

But be the caufcs what they will, the fad is undetliabie, that a confiderable degree of inteUigence is poflcSed by the great body of the people.

Po^r.— The poor are well fupported. The number of vil- lages, the vicinity of the coal and lime-works, the eafe with which feuars build houfes, and the low rent at which they can afford to let them, have induced many indigent people to take up their refidence in this parifli. After n^any attempts to ameliorate the condition of the poor had been made and abandoned by the Heritors and Kirk Sellioh, the prefent fcheme was in the year 1774, adopted by the county of Siir« ling. The poor live in their own houfes, and receive a monthly penfion, according to their circumftances. A com« mittee of refiding heritors, the minifter, fome elders, and other parifliioners, meet on the firft Thurfday of every month, and fuperintend the payments made to the poor, according to a roll made up by the committee at a private meeting.

The funds ar^ raifed from»

1. An afleflment on the land at a certain rate, percent, the one half paya(ble by the proprietors, the other by the tenants, according to their refpe£^ive valued rents. This rate is fixed at a general meeting, held annually for the purpofe. The rate has never been below 12s per L. 100 valued rent, nor above i6sy except in 1783, when it rofe to i8s.

2* A voluntary contribution from the inhabitants of the villages*

3. The balance of the Seilion funds, after paying the ufual accounts.

4. The produce of the deceafed penfioners efie£ts, fold by public audion.

5. The

of St. Ninians. 401

5. The weekly coUcflion at the parilh church.

6. Dues from the mortcloths.

The number of pcnfioncrs varies every month. The fol- lowing Table contains the number of pen&oners, and the fums expended for 1 5 years.

£. s. d.

A. D. J 776

-

99 penGoners,

165 II 4

—77

-

104

-

201 12 If

-78

m

105

-

201 18 6i

—79

-

99

-

197 16 3

—80

-

109

-

202 6 9i

— 8i

-

117

-

197 18 10

—82

«

III

w

214 6 6

-83

-

119

-

237 i3 3

-84

-

127

-

256 8 9

-8s

-•

106

-

206 19 5

—86

-

III

-

2tO 10 7f

-87

-

no

-

218 8 li

—88

-

no

-

-

217 13 4i

-89

-

112

-

-

222 411

—90

-

lOI

-

-

210 10 II

About two years ago, the Seilion received about L« 1000 (lerling) by a will : On a day fixed by the will of the Donor» the intereft of this fum is divided amongft the pooreft in- habitants of the village of St. Ninians.

Ecclefiajtlcal EJlate.^lt appears from the regiftcrs, that from the year 1655, to the year 1732, che office of minifter of the Gofpel in this parifii, was fucceffively held by Meflirs George Bennet, William Fogo, James FuUerton, James Forfytb, William Couper, John Logan^ Archibald Gibfon.

VoL.XVIIL ^ 3E Mr

402 Statyiical ^ccwnt

Mr James Mackie, was admitted March 1734* This fettle* ment was promoted by the Heritors, in oppofition to a great proportion of the inhabitants of the.parifli. During this in- cumbencyy about one half, it is reported, of the inhabitants of the parifh, left the Eftabliflied Church, and joined the Seccf- £on.

Mr John Gibfon with confent of all parties^ was admitted May i7;4i and till his tranllation to Edinburgh, 176^, the parifh continued almoft in the fame ilate in which he found it.

The next fcttlement was oppofed by almoft the whole pa- lifli. In June, however, 1773, the eighth year of a procefs before the General AflTembly, the patron prevailed, and Mr David Thomfon was admitted rainifter. The Eftablifhment was then abandoned by the great body of its adherents. Thefe, with a few others from. neighbouring parifhes, joined them* felves to the Communion of the Preibytery of Relief. A large houfe was erefledj a minifter called and ordained; and a ftipend was fixed at L. 100 per annum. This ftipend is principally raifed from the produce of the feat-rents.

Previous to Mr Thomfon's death in 1787, his hearers were indulged with the choice of the afliftant preacher. From this period, the adherents of the Eftablifhment were gradually augmented. In the year 1788, they refolved from voluntary contributions, to purchafe the right of Patronage ; though the price amounted to a fum, between L. 600 and L. 700 iler. the refolution was foon carried into efFc£l, and a young man, who was appointed to preach in the church during the vacan- cy occaConed by Mr Thomfon's death, was admitted mini- ftcr in Oaober 1788.

The right of prefentation is now lodged with a committee

of 9. The committee confifts of 3 elders, 3 heritors, and

3 heads of families^ The members of this committee, ate

2 chofea

of St. Ninians. 403

cliofen by the people, and hold their places for life, if they continue in full communioB with the Eftablifliment. The commitcee is obliged to prefent In due time and according to the rules of the church whatever candidate is recom- mehded to them by a majority of votes. Every head of a family in full communion with the EdabUihment, h^s 4 right to vote In the cle£tion of a minifter.

In 1746, The church, which the Highland army had con- verted into a magazine, was blown up \ but whether by de- iign or accident, is not known ; fevcral lives were loft by the explofion. It is remarkable enough, that the {leeple rcr mained entire. It (lands at a confiderable dil^ancc from the prefent church, and never fails to excite the traveller's fur- prize at fuch an unufual disjundion*

The New Church was built foon after the deflrudion of the other. It is 75 by 53 feet within the walls, and at pre- fent in complete repair.

About 5 miles fouth-weft of the church, there is another place of worihip. The heritors of the muirland part of the parifh ere£led this chapel, and the minifter or his afiiftant, ufually preaches there on the firft fabbath of every month.

The ftipend was fettled as follows, by a decreet of modifi- cation and locality, of date February 1785. " The Lords of *' Council and Seflfion, modified, difcerned, and ordained| ^' and hereby modify, difcern, and ordain the conftant fti- ^* pend and proviflon of the kirk and parifii of St. Ninian's, '* to have been for the crop and year of God 1776, and '* yearlv fince fyne, and in all time coming, 4 chalders meal, *' 2, chalders bear, and L. 1000 Scots money for ftipend, •* with L. 90 money forefaid for furnifhing the Communion 'f Elements *, but have difcerned, and hereby declare, 600 *^ merks of the faid ftipend fliall be paid by the purfuer, to ** an afliftant preacher or helper in the faid parifh, ay and

3 E 3; " until

404 Stati/Hcal Account

'^ until a new ercAion (hall take place. And on fuch events *^ happenings the faid 600 inerks ihall go to the minifter of *< the faid new eredion, as a part of his ftipend; which '' modified ftipend, and modification, for the Communion ^*' Elements, the faid Lords difcem, and ordain, to be paid ^* yearly, locally, to the faid purfuer and his fucceflbrs in '* office, minifters ferving the cure of the (aid parifli, con- ** form to the diviGon, and locallity following." The meal and bear according to the decreet, muft be given in before Candlemafs, and the money muft be paid, one half at Whit- funday, and the other half at Martinmafs.

The fchool-mafter teaches Latin, Greek, Englifti, book* keeping, &c. his falary paid by the heritors, is L. 14:12. his other perquifites amount to about L. 20, befides an ex- cellent dwelling-houfe, fchool-houfe, garden, and the ordi« nary fchool fees.

There are many fmall fchools in different parts of the pa* rifli ; together with a Sabbath- evening fchool, in which the principles of religion are taught gratis, by one of the elders of the church.

Antiquities. '^In early times, that tra£l of country now cal* led Stirling- (hire, was fituated upon the confines of no lefs than 4 kingdoms. It had the North Umbrean and Cumbrean dominions on the fouth, and thof^ of the Scots and PiAs upon the north. Probably it belonged fometimes to onc» and fometimes to another ; for thefe powers were perpetually making encroachments on each other. Such a fituation^ puts it beyond a doubt, that St. Ninians muft have been the field of contention, not only between parties and tribes, but likewife between nations. An attempt however, to perpeiu* ate the memory of thefe contentions, were equally vain and fruitlefs. The wifdom of hiftory has configned them to de«

ftrrvcd

of St. Nimans. 40^

fcrred eblWion ; and to recorcr them by means of tiaditioiiy "vere onlj to augiunent the already too numerous monuments of the weaknefs and folly and Crimea of mankind. Their magnitude and confequences, have perpetuated the memory of 3 battles, which the ftatiftical reader will exped in the parifli of St. Ninians.

The battle of Stirling, was fought on the 13th September 1297. The Scots were commanded by Wallace ; the Engliih by Hugh Creffingham, and John Earl of Surry aad Suflex. The defeat of the Englifli, efieAcd near Corn-town, on the northern banks of the Forth, was completed at the Torwood. The boundaries of the Tor wood are much contrafted, and that part of it which lay in this parifh, is almoft entirely removed*. The battle of Bannockburn, was fought in this parifh, oa Monday, the 24th June, 1314* The EngKfh Reader may find an account of this battle, in any Britifh Hiftorian. The Antiquarian will not be difpleafed with the following authentic defcription of Bafton.

Bafton, a Carmelite friar, and prior of a monallery vk Scarborough, was reckoned one of the beft poets of hi« age« Edward brought him with the Engliih army to Scotland, that he might witnefs and celebrate the vidory, which that mo* narch expefted to obtain. The poet was taken prifoner, but obtained his liberty, on condition of compofrng a poem ia honour of the vi£korious Scot& Independently of the traoiac* tion which it records, the poem itfeif is not the lead of our curiofities*.

There

• Baftoni metra de illuftri Bello de Bannockburn.

De pUn^Q cudo metnim, cum carmine oudo. Rifam retnido, dum tali themate ludo. Ke^or coeleAis, adhiben» folamina moenif, Vcrax eft tcftis ; qnc profpcra fcrrc potcft his.

Qnot

4o6 Statijfical Account

There are fcveral veftigcs of this battle in the parifli. In a garden at New*houfe» ^xro lar^ ftones ftill ftanding, were

ereded

Qoot Tiiidt reftisy pro findoni (brdtda veftis,

Ploro Tub his geftis, perimit quos torrida pedis.

Bella parata fleo, iamcntans Tub canapeo,

Subque rcge reo, nefcio, telle Deo.

Zft regnnm duplex, et utrnmque cupit dommari,

Sed nentnim fupplex «uU a reliqno iuperari.

Jplum fe fie ja£laut, cum Bacco no^e jocando ' *

S«otia» te ma^nt, verbis ranis reprobaodo ;

pormitant, ftertunt. c^uos irrita fomnia mutant,

l^ortes te putant, patriz confinia Tertunt.

EzpGcat exercitns fplendentla figna per arva.

Jam fimt difperfi, nhnis eft Tirtus fua parva«

Pvlminat ad bella prasco^ claznans dira novelb,

FcUca ficut mells^ tanta durante proceila.

KuDC armatorum difponunt gefta Tirorumy

Kegens Anglorum vires enervet eoram.

Tu fer Tcxillum, quo Scoti terrificentur,

Agmina poft Ulum, belli pro more fequentur ;.

▲rcetenens arcus tendas, nee fis modo parens,^

Illic traofmittas ho(Ves pcrimendo fagittas ;

Tflac t« tela vibris i^uafi fnlgor, anbela,

Von te pro tela, mortem fcriendo revila.

Obtict {lie illis cum fundis atque lapillis,

PandcDS TiTana, faci(endo concara plana.

Xt ioca tn fifte, tendanturut arte baliftar,

Xiamen trifte popuius denu^iciet ifte.

Haflae toUuntur, patriae iiitrapes lapiuntur,

•Bic diiponuntur, quod multi multa loquuntui.

Format et informat Rex Scotus przlia dira.

$»unt cqultes pedites ; O quam covgrelfio mira« I

Clamat ; Rex animat Scotorum noLiliores,

Citat, et invitat ad bella viros potiores :

Ccrnit difccrnit acies pro morte paratas,

Tales mortalei gcntisccnfetfupcratas.

of Su Ninians. ^ 407

creeled In memory of die battle fought on the evening before the battle of Bannockburn^ between Randolph and Clifford.

The

Fatnr, folatnr tubas populi venieotes.

Rifit, deriiit Anglorum faedera gentis.

ForCis dux mortis digitos ad bella docebat, '

Cenris protervis, nulla difTerre jiibebat*

Lxtos 6t coitus, fdtis rumoribus iftis,

Stabit, pugnabit, fie fiet Aiiglia triAis.

Rex fortes teoet, et cunAis dat fua jura,

Quosarmismanit, pracdicens bella futura.

Iipbre fagittali minuatur ab ingaiiue iaoguis.

Turbine lethali ftimulet jaculator, ut anguis

Hafta teres fodiat proceris fpargendo cruorem,

MiiHlibus cum pericibus renoTando dolorem*

Timba fecuri pe^ora cniri fcindere curet.

Tela vibrabit, iic fuperabit, fi bene duret. •

Mucro latet, nil pofle patet, pro marte valere,

Sors praeterit quibus omen erat fupplenda, replcre

Macbina plena malis pedibus formatur equinis,

Concavas cum palis, ne pergant abfque minis.

Plebs foveas fodit, ut per eas labantur equeftres,

£t pereant (i quos videant traniire pedeftres.

AdYcna turba vocatur, Scotica gens muniatur.

Prima phalanx fociatur, regia vis comitatur. %

Scandere nulius coram terga valebit equorum,

IRcnt fie aiiorum plures domini dominorum,

Exploratores mittunt bine inde petentes,

Multos rumores funt inter fe rcferentes.

Dira dies ibiis pandit primordia molis . .

Angligenx prolis, bine exit, ab ore fuo lis.

Arrida terra gerit Strivelini praelia prima,

Splendida turba ferit, fed tandem tcndit ad ima.

Eft dolor immenfiis, augente dolore doloiem ;

Eft furor accenfus, ftimulante furore furorena ;

Eft clamor crefbens, feriente priore priorem ;

Eft Yakr arefcens, fruftiantc Talore valorem ;

Eli

4c8 Statiftical jiccount

The place has lately received die name of Randolph-field. On firocks^brae, the Bore-ftone^ from a hole in its center^

is

XA calor ardefcenf , urente calore cabrem ;

Eft gens demcfcens, teprobante minore niBorem.

Eft ftupor anditus, geminante flupore ftuporem ;

Eft pepnlus tritus, perdente timore timorem.

Surgit rugitus, fundcnte cruore crnorem ;

IJanc tim«r eft icitut metuente timore timorem.

Atra dies lunae peftem renovat nocituram,

Qnam ti fortunae fadt Anglis Scotia doram*

An;;licohe, qui coelicols, fplendore nitefcant

Magnantmi, tanquam minimi, fob no^ quiefcnnt*

£ipc£tat, fpeAat, gens Anglica qoos necc pledat,

Admotos Scotos, ab iis non longe remotos.

Plcbs plangit, dangit ; fed qusm congreffio taagit

Nee plang^t, frangit vires quas i£Ubds angit.

Magnifid medld Scotorum funt inimici ;

Mnnifid media potuit TiAoria did ;

Infultus ftuitus practenditur ordine cnltus ;

Singultus multus enimpit ab aj>gere vnltusy

Defcendens, frendens pedibus, gens Scocica tendens ,

Defendens, vendens faa prodit din repffctrdent.

Hie rapit, hie capit, hie terit> hie ferit; ecce dolores!

Vox tonat, xs fonat, bic ruit ; hie luit arfta modo res.

Hie fecat, bic necat, hie docet, hie nocct, ifte fugatur;

Hie latct, hie patet, hie premit, hie gemit, hie fnpentnr ;

Hie fremit, hie tremit, hie paTit^ hie^cavit, ifte iigatar ;

Hie legit, hie tegit, hie m^it^ hie petit, hie fpoUator ;

Crefcit inedia, corpora, prsedia diripiuntur ;

Heu molieres, miles et hzres infieluntur.

Clare comes, Tcnerande fomes Giovemiex cuttor,

Heu moiirii. Tub ftrage peris, fie fit Deus ultor.

Truz Clifibrdenfis mucrooe retanderis enfii

Idtibus immenfis mis hoftibus undique denfis.

Miles Marfcallus WiUelmus, in agmine fortit

Scotorum callis tibi pandit vnlnera mortis.

Andaz

qf Sl Nittians. \ 40^

u faid to hare fupported Bruce's ftandard. Some catdiorp% or (harp pointed irons, have been found in Milton-bog. The Park-mill feem» to have received its name fsom the park of woody mentioned by Barbour in his defcription of the battle. About a mile from the field of battle, a party of Englifh endeavoured to oppofe the yidorious army, and left the name of the Bloody Fold to the place where they fell \ perhaps Sir Ingram Umfravllle gave his name to Ingram's crook*

On the nth of June, 1488, the field of Stirling, or the battle of Sauchie-burn, was fought on a traA of ground cal- led

Andas Edmunde Maley, probitate Tirilis,

Tegens hoAUet fupent feritates abunde.

BeUiger infignis Tibitoyt, quali feryidus ignis,

Eniibas et ligots cadif , inftat mors tua figni%,

Nobilis aigent. pagil, inclite dalcis zgidi,

Vix fderam mcntcm cum tc fnccaaibere vidi.

Quid fraar ambage» de tanta quid caoo ftrage,

Vix potent tragedia pandere ichifi^ata plagae*

Nomioa beUantam mta mens nefcit nnmerariy

Qnot, qnae, rel quantum mors novit ibi Ttotari.

Maiti ma^lantur, multi jaculis terc brantiir.

Multi merguntur, multi Tivi capinntur.

Broiis ftrihguBtqr» et munera mnlta pctontiir.

Jam^ fnnt ditati per eos et magnificat],

Qniprimiftratifaerunt, velut apporiati.

Per gyrum finis loca funt rallata rapinisf

Verba repteta minis replicantur, et auAa rulnif,

Neds quid dicam, quam non fevi meto fpicam,

JLinquo doli tricam, pacem coelo juris amicam,

Qui carat pinra, fcribendi fit faa cura;

£(l mea mens dura, rudis et tox, ima litunu

Sum Carmelita, Baflon cognomine di^s,

Qui doleo TiU, in tali ftrage reti^his.

Si quid deliqui, fi que redtanda reliqui,

H«c addant hi qui non foot iermones iniqni.— -Foi^Bdn*

Vol,, xvm. 3 F

1

4lo Statt/lical Account

led Little Canglour, on the cad fide of a fmall brook called Sauchie-burn, about two miles fouth from Stirling, and about one mile from the field of Bannockburn.

Beaton's Mill, the houfe where James III* was put to death, is ftill (landing, and^may be ranked amongft the nu- merous monuments of that ambition, which often endanger- ed| and in the end, ruined the Royal Family of Stuart*

NUMBEIt

p/ Kiidrummy. 4 1 1

*

NUMBER XV, PARISH OF KILDRUMMY.

(county of ABERDEEN.)

By tie Rev. Air Robert Lumsden.

Geography and Natural Ht/lery*

npHE annals of the nth century mention this parifh by -^ its prefent name^ which is pure Celtic, though a little dt£fcmitly enunciated in that tongue* It Ggnifies the little Burial Mmtnt* It is fituated on the banks of the Don, about 40 £ngli0i miles from its mouth near Aberdeen, and about do from its fourcesi in the mountains of Curgarfiv It is un- equally divided by the river, which the people commonly pafs upon ftilts \ which are poles or (takes, about 6 feet in length, with a ftep on one fide, on which the paflenger raifed about 2 feet from the ground, refting them against his fides and armpits, and moving them forward by each hand, totters through* This Oiows the river is not navigable. It is however moderately ftocked with the two kinds of trout, common to all the fmaller rivers on the eaftern fide of the kingdom.

The parifh (eparated from its neighbours, on every fide by pretty high hills, may be confidered as a level valley, from 2

3 F a to

41 a Statijlical Account

to 3 miles fquare, to which is adjoined a narrow ftfipt« ftretched between the north fide of ^e parifli of Anchendoir^ and the mountains, for 3 or 4 miles in an eailerly dire£bion ; fuggefting by its form to a fanciful imagination, the idea^f the pafte-board kite, which Dr Franklin firft raifed into the thunder cloud.

ProduSfhns.'^Thc foil may be regarded as for the iftoft part a rich deep gravelly loam, fuppofed to be tlie moft Iflir- tile in this great coonty, the boll of bear weighing sto ftone Duteh, and on a well cultivated field, in a favourable feafen, 2 or 3 (lones more in the boll are generally expefiked*

The outfield is ftill managed in the moft ancient faAiiOD; biit all the modern improvements in the fcience of agricul- ture, have been introduced into the infield; bear is fpokefki ' of by its own proper name, and though peafe, potntoesi tor- nip, flax, and artificial, grafiies, have been long cnunaeraced among the productions of the parifli^ oats are ftSl' ftaiicely known by any other name, than that ol ecm; eifryldg^back^ our imagioation to that ftate of fociety, when^hi^'wa^tiic only grain known in the country. Thett^tisatdbamtik qttarrics of free-ftone, fit for all the porpofes both ^I the Aiolt fubftantial and ornamental architeflurc ^ bufe randy ^fou^d hard enough for mill-flones.

Lime is brought for manure in confiderable quantities from the parifii of Cabfach on the north, whiiji Dr Andedbn, in his' report to the Board of Agriculture, fcetM to have con- sidered as In the c^dunty of Banff; and he has not been in- formed that the parilh of Glettbucket on the weft, contains an inexhauftible ftore^of this fertilizing mineral, becaufebyan ill direded policy of the landlord, it has been there for fome years locked up ; for as both the ftone and peat in that very inland diftri£k 'are more than e^aal to the confumpt of all

generations,

of Kildrwnmy. 413

jOOctatiDiis^ this reftraint muft have been impofed from the .idea of tndtufing the people to beftow that labo.ar on the foU^ vhieh would be otherwife laid oat on the calcination and xaniage of lime-ftone. In a country^ where the whole cat- de are fupportcd during the fumraer, on widely extended mountain pafturage inacceflible to the plough, and where the whole arable land is under crop at fartheft by the middle of June, ..there is an interval of nearly 3 mondis, in which the whole operations of the field are neceflarily fufpended, whan ihe induftry of the people coinciding with their own aaelidationi might be more profitably exerted in making lime for fale^ ithan by their prefcnt cafual and often mifguided CMrtois« On the other hand» the liberty of following their own judgement with.regard to the ufe of lime on their farms, w^ttld do oi^re to promote the improvement of the foil, than tbc pcefmt arbitrary reftri£tion which evidently difcourages» xadbet tbao excites their induftry,

k is haitfly of importance to mention, that there is a coo* fidCT^c extent of iiatural birch*wood, on a bank overhang- ing » brook wittdbg near the caftle; and fmall plantations 'of fareft ftod fir-trees at the manors of Qova and Brux.

The hotfesy though of a fmall fizc, are of a fine figurCf fpirked and faardy* They appear to bo an unmixed breed, that has for ages paft been raifed in this quarter of the country. If properly broke» and well kcpt« they .would make fine pownies for ladiefi and fpr an airing in the coun- try. ' They are fold from I<« 4 or L..5 to L. 12 or L. 14 (ler. Of late, their fervice has becA required for the plough and catc .la former times, when there weise no carts in the country, and when the plouf^ was drawn b][ oxen, their labour was Tcftri£kcd to the harrow, — to carrying out the dung in bafkcts on their fides — bringing in the com, and exjpprting the meal and other commodities in panniers to the Abejcdeen market. I The

414 Stati/iical Accaunt

The black cattle are not fmaller than In any other difttiA of the county ; and they are often of a finer pile and fonp^ to which the herbage of the rich foil^^and the warm fheltered Ctuation are prefumed to contribute.

Their number and their value are fo often varied^ by the rife or fall of the demand or of the price^ that thefe particu- lars cannot with any refponfible precifion be ftated.

Aldiough there are but few farms on which there are no fheep keptj yet this kind of dock is of no diftinguilhed coo- fideration, has received but flight attention^ and been regard- ed rather as a matter of domeftic accomodation^ than of commerce or agricultural profit* To render this ftock o£ proper account, it is requifite to take meafures ia fummert for fecuring a certain and more plentiful fupply of food, I during the fnows of winter, and the cold weather^ and t^ fcanty pafturage of the fpring months*

There has never been any meafuremeot or furvey of the parifh* The number of arable acres may be fuppofcd, about a fifth part of the whole \ the outfield may be about a third part more in quantity than the infield : Originally they muft have been nearly of the fame quantity, and of equal value; but at prefent, there is certainly a great difierence* The outfield may be accounted worth 5s the acre, and the infield may be valued about a guinea ; but as the number of acres is no where afcertained, and as the rents are paid in meal and money, in cufloms and fervices to the heritor^ and to the miller, neither landlord nor tenant can lay with any pre- cifion, what the rent may be by the acre.

On moft farms it would be proper to remove the buildings to the vicinity of the outfields, and to cultivate them in a fuitable rotation of , crops, with the application of the whole manure, and a proper allowance fpr lime ; wh^e the infields, if enclofed and laid out in artificial grafsj would for fonxe

years,

of Kildrummyl 4 1 5

yearSf ht more raluable than in corn ; and by this means, the whole land would in a {hort time rife to the value of a pound or guinea the acre $ but to eiFeAuate this, the purfe of the landlord muft be conjoined with the labour of the ten« ant, anj encouraging length of leafe muft be given to the ten- nant, and a progreiBve rife of rent to the landlord.

The parifh is at prefent (bared among 4 heritors. Charles Gordon of Ward-houfe, Efq. holds about the one half, the principal mefluage of the Earls of Marre ; Harry Lumfden, Efq. of Auchendoir, has Clova and the north \ the fouth is poflefiid by Jonathan Forbes of Brux, Efq. ; and part of the eftate of Alexander Leith of Glenkindy, Efq. ftretches from the parifli of Towie on the weft*

1^6putation. — ^There is no record extant by which the popu- lation of very ancient times can be in any way afcertained. It may be prefumed, it has at no time been materially diffe- rent from what it is at prefent } for the number of the retain- ers of the Earls of Marre about the caftle, muft be more than balanced by that of the improvers lately fettled upon a con- fideraMe extent of moor, which was formerly wholly waftc. In 17551 the number was 562 fouls. At prefent, the num- ber is 568, of whom 221 are males, and 347 females. Some of them are craftfmen, (hoemakers, taylors, fmiths, neceflary for the occafions of the country; yet all of them poflefs fome land, and are fo frequently engaged ia the ope- rations of agriculture, that the whole may be regarded as farmers^ there being no town or village in the pariOi*

Mifcellamous Remarks. — ^The Scots language, with the e- nunciation peculiar to the county of Aberdeen, is the only tongue fpoken in the parlfh ; but many of the names of places are of the Gxlic language : the names of fome of the farms

in

4i6 Siatiftical Account

in the vicinity of the caftle, indicate them to have been alio* cated for the fupport of the refpedive offices of that ancient eftablifliment, fuch as Cook's hill, Gardener^s hill) &c«

Peat is the only fuel ufed \ though this article is feldom bought or fold, it is fo diftant from many of the farmS) that the corns are generally dried upon the kilns by heath ; the fupport of the fire being commonly committed through the day, to any of the children of 6 or 8 years old, not other- strife engaged; yet there is no inftance of any kiln being burnt*

The prices of labour, of poultry, and of all commodities are the fame, as in the town and markets of Aberdeen.

Antiquities* — ^The caftle among the obje£is of antiquity, claims the firft regard. From the river Don, winding ^ioog the bottom of the hill, which feparates the parifh from that of Cuflmie on the fouth, the country gradually rifej towards the corner, where the ridge on the weft, joins the mountaia on the north fide of the parifli : A brook rifing in the angle formed by that junction, feems in fome remote age, to have direded its courfe foutherly, along the bottom of the weftem ridge, right onwards to the river, and in that dire^lion, formed a pretty deep hollow ; but has afterwards fallen into an eaftcrly courfe, and thereby for a little way, formed a deep and narrow defile along the bottom of the mountain on the north, until it regains its former direction towards the river. By this means, it may be prefumcd, the eminence has been formed on which the caftle is placed.

Tradition bears, that it originally confifted but of one great circular tower, of 5 ftories or floors \ diftinguiihed by the ap- pellation of the Snow Tower, in the weftern corner of the prefent fabric, which was afterwards carried roun^ a pretty fpacious court, forming an unequal pentagonj in which 6

other

^f KildruHimjf. 4 1 7

olher towerg differing ia magnitude aiMl form, rofe for (he protefiion of the ioterveniog buildtogSi which appear to have be«n Kut 2 ftofie9 in heigbu Two of theie towers were for the fe^urity aloj:^ of the only gate placed in the weftern wall^ occupying the whole fpace between them ; the walla were 4 leet thick, built of run^linie, and the autfide courfes of free* {tone, regularly fquared ; the weftern wall was reared on die reiBge of the acclivity at 6rft defcrihed» which rofe however in fuch a gentle flope, as to afford (pace for the garden, whidi, though warm and finely iheltered, would ia the pre* Cent age, be accounted too fmall. I'he northern fide was fe- cured by the fteep banks of the brook, and round the eaft tndfoutfa, were deep artificial ditches, the whole fortifica* tion occupying nearly 3 Scots acres; befides a draw- well. There may be ftill traced from the interior of the fortrefs, a iubterranean vaulted paiTagc, of height fufiicicnt for horfcs, opening in tlie bank, now much above the prefent bed of the brook, although it is believed, its channel was then on a levd with the exterior openiflg of this covered way. In the middle of. the eaftern wall, the chappel may be dill diftin** guiihed by the peculiar form of the window above the altar ; confiding of 3 very long, and very narrow flits. Tradition reports, that the chappel was occupied as a magazine of forage, during the noted fiege, by the forces of Edward I. itx the year 1306; that when Robert I. and his wife and daughter, were underftood to have made their efcape, by means of the covered way to the county of Rofs, the beficg- ers defpaired of fuccefs, when a piece of red hot iron thrown throDgh this window into the forage, occafioned fuch dif- tt^&ion by the conflagration, that tlie cadle was won by furprife und ftorm.

Soon after the forfeiture of the Earl of Marre, for his friendfliip to the houfe of Stuart, in the year 17 15, the caf-

Vou XVIII, 3 G tie

4 1 1 Statijiical Accoimt

tie with its whole domains, fell into the pofleffion of a pro^ prietor, who, refiding elfewhere, let the adjoining lands to a tenant, who preferred low thatched cottages of his own 4rearing, to the lofty roofs of this royal palace, and the ma* terials were partly carried off for other buildings, fo that both the ravages of man and of timei have conjoined to ac» celerate its ruin*

The family of Fife, in the laft generation, acquired tho fuperiortties of the Earldom of Marre, by purchafe from ths crown. It is f<iid, they ftill retain the privilege of holding meetings, and tranfafling bufinefs, with the vaflals in the Snow Tower; it is however certain, this never was, and it is much more than probable, that it never will be, afcertained by actual praflice.

Mod of thofe who vifit thefe ruins, make fome reflexions upon their ancient magnificence, compared with their prcfent filent defolation. It would be more pleafant, and perhaps more ufeful, to compare the freedom, fecurity, and comfort which the people now enjoy, nocwithllanding all the clamours refpe&ing the corruption and decay of the conllitution, with what they experienced, during any period of the 600 years in which the caftle (lood^in fplendor and magnificence. It is certain, that during this long tra£k of time, in which even the Kings and Nobles lived in fear, and in comfortlcfs infe- curity ; the coVidition of the inferior ranks of fociety was extremely miferable; while the minds of all were debafed under the domination of oppreflive prieftcraft, and the gloomieft fuperftiiion ; the fortunes, perfons, and lives of the people, were at the uncontrolled difpofal of their petty, yet arbitrary chiefs ; and the people were continually haraffed by robberies, murders, and predatory wars, among their rapacious and capricious lords. Their habitations in cleannefs and ac« commodation, were not fuperior to the huts of the moft

lavage

\

-^ Klldfummy. 41 9

fayage tribes ; their furniture, clothing, and viAuals, wer« mean and wretched in the extreme.

But the civil liberty and the equal diftribution of juftico which they now enjoy, coftly as thefe blei&ngs arc, by af* fording fome degree of 'fecurity, both to their perfons and their fubftance, hath produced among them a fatisfa^on and elevation of mind, unfcU in former times ; their fpirits are neither deprefled by the flaviih dread of infolent tyranni- cal fnperiors, nor debafed by the gloom of difmal fnperftition 1 the pure and gentle religion which they are now taught, enables them to fupport the natural ills of life, by their truft in a wife and good Providence, and by their hope of a happy eternity. Their houfes are tight, commodious, and com- fortably fumifhed ; well lighted, and free from fmoke, clean in fummer, and warm in winter ; and the drefs of apprentice boys, at church and market, is fupeiior to the finery of the young nobility of ancient times. By their frequent intercourfe with the city of Aberdeen, and trafficking in cattle fairs, from the ihores of the Moray Frith to the other fide of the Gram- pian mountains, they have acquired acutenefs, difcretion, and polifhed manners, far fuperior to thofc of the fame rank, in the beft cultivated provinces of this great Empire.

Although the ancient times which have been mentioned, were far from being comfortable, yet the parifli contains indi- cations of a ftate of fociety in an earlier age, more unhappy (till ; a ftate in which it was necefTary for the inhal^tants to conceal thcmfelves under ground, debarred from the free air, and the light of day: We arc unable to guefs at what «ra of our hiftory thofc fubterranean abodes were necefTary j or whether the ncceflity was occafioned by the wcakncfs, or puGUanimoufnefi of the people; or whether it arofe from the drqad of a foreign or domeftic foe* Thofe habitations have only been found in one quarter of the parifh, about a

3 G a mile

j^26 Stati/ltcal Account

mile north-eaft from the caftle, iA a very krel moor of con« fiderable extent, exhibiting fio token of hating etvr produced wood of any kind. Thetf nuftiber is cotifiderabk ; but not certainly afcertained $ for the people trho hare lately fettled aft improvers on the moor, dtfcoter from time to time, one unobferv^d before. Their entrance commonly from the weftcrn end, is not larger than may be Ihut by many of the greater ftones fcattered over the moor. The infidc of the largeft yet feen, meafures about 1 6 or 20 feet in length, and abdut 6 or 7 in breadth at the floor ; the walls are about 4 feet high, untouched by the mafon's hammer, and without ifiottar of any kind; approaching to each other grad«ally, from the foundation, fo as to be covered at the level of the ttiobr by flag-ilones about 3 feet in lengdi, above which the excavated earth has been carelefsly accumulated ;* fo as while the rain is thereby carried off, the external appearahce is that only of a {hapelefs hillock, fuggefting no idea of its contents. Thefe remotely ancient abodes, carry back our contem- plations to a ftate of fociety, when the principles upon which the arch is conftrudcd, were nearly, but not com- pletely difcovcred j and by comparing the ftruflure of thefe concealed abodes, with the moft durable monuments of tlie wifdom of Egypt, the moft venerable fanes of celebrated Afia, and the moft elegant temples of poli(hed Greece, there will be found reafon to believe, that tliofc principles undifcovered by the ingenuity of the moft renowned nations, were firft known among our own rude anceftors. But at Tacitus hath mentioned, (Mot. Germ. C. 16.) that ftich ha* bitations were alfo common among the ancient favages of the Continent, we are not certain that the whole credit of dif^ covering this important branch of architeAure belongs to ourfelves.

It

*

fif Kildrummy* 421

It miglit be thought ao omiflioa, not to mention a done ooIoBin on the fame moor. It is nearly cylindrical, about j or 4 feet in circumference^ and about 9 or 10 in height. It exhibits no ouurk of art, and no tradition reraains concern- ing ir«

The little green mount, the only burial ground ia the pari(h| upon which alfo the church is built, has no doubt, given the parifh its name ; and it may be prefumed, a church had been ere^ed there, before the foundations of the caftle were laid, and before the free (lone quarries were opened, which afforded the materials for its walls ; as the fabric of the prefent church is compofed of common (lone, Colle£led from the furface of the moor, probably for building the firft church the parjfli ever enjoyed. There are feveral of the pews, with the initials of the firft own- ers, and dates more than a century ago. The ayle on the fouth fide, containing the feats, no lefs modern, which the Earls of Marre, and their attendants occupied, is built over the vault in which the bodies of their dead were for many generations laid. Several fkulls, and many of the bones remain unburied in the bottom of the vault, the hatchway entrance from the floor of the ayle being now im- perfedly clofed.

The enbalmed body of a lady lay there in pcrfefl prefer- vation, till about the year I74<5> when fome gentlemen of the county, idle by the diftra£lions of that period, carried off the body, for more minute infpe£lion, than the accom- modation about the church allowed. It was on that occa- fion dlfmembered, and a leg and thigh, it is faid, were fent over to Rome.

It is fuppofed to have been the body either of the fitter

of King Robert Bruce, Chriftian the wife of Graitney, Earl

of Marre, who added Kildrummy as her dower to the pof-

a feilions

^22 StattJlicaJ Account

fefEons of that family ; or of Ifabel Douglas, daughter oF Margaret of Marre, who about the year 1400, between compulfion and inclination, gave her hand, with the caftle and its whole domains, to Alexander Sceuait, the natural fon of the Earl of Buchan.

^

I

NUMBER

of BarrowJio'Vdnnefs. 423

NUMBER XVI. PARISH OF BORROWSTOWNNESS.

(county of LINLITHGOW.) By the Rjv. Mr Robert Rennie.

Namif Situation^ Extent,

BORROWSTOWNNESS, derives its name from the fmall village of Borrowftown *• The pariih is fituatcd in the county and prefbytery of Linlithgow, and in the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The town (lands about 3 miles north from the prefbytery feat, and about 18 miles north* weft from Edinburgh, the feat of the Synod.

Prior to the year 1634, Borrowftownnefs belonged to the pariih of Kinniel. The inhabitants then becoming nume- TOUSf built a church, finding it inconvenient to travel nearly Z miles to the Old Church at Kinniel, and petitioned the Parliament of Scotland, A.D. J 649, for a disjunAion, and a feparate minifter. Parliament granted the prayer of the petition, and after feveral vifitacions, the prcfi>ytery of Lin- lithgow

^ Eorrowftown probably tbe town of the boroagh, as being in tbe vicini* ty of Linlithgow, the county town in the neighbourhood, and neis, whidi figuifics a point of land projeAing into the fea.

424 Statijlical Account

lithgC3fw found it ncctflary, that Borrowftownncfs fhould be created into a parifh by itfelf, bounded on the fouth, by Graham's dyke ; on the north, by the fea ; on the eaft, by Thirleftone, and on the weft, by the caftle wall, commouly called '< Capic's wall." In December iGt^% the Duke and Duchefs of Hamilton, obtained an a£l of the Scotch Parlia- Bient, declaring the church lately built within the town to be ^* the kirk of the hail barony of Kinniel and Borrowftown- ^* nefs.'' From that period, the pnriflies have been united, and confidered as one. The parifii now 13 about 4 £ngli(h miles in length, from eaft to weft, and about 2v In breadth, from fouth to north.

Nearly of a triangular form, k is bounded on the eaft and fouth, by the parifties of Carridden and Linlithgow ; on the weft and fouth, by the river Avon, which divides it from the pariihes of Polmont and Muira von fide ; and on the north, it is bounded by the Frith of Forth, reckoned 4 xuiks in breadth, dbe&ly oppofice to the burgh of Cukofs*

Surface^ &i/, Rent^ Produce, ^-^Tht patifti comprehends more than 320 Engliih acres, all properly divided and well inclofed, except about 1 2^ acres in the neighbourhood mi the tovn, which are let or feued for the conveniency of ibe inhabitants. The furfaoe of the high ground or dry- fields which may contain 2713 acres, is uneven, rifing gradaaliy from the Frith to the fouth, and doping gently on the weft, to the faai^ of the Avon. It is let at about 24s per acre. The foil is deep and heavy, of a thick, loamy confiftence. About 330 acres of the north weft part of the parilh, are carfe ground* It is of the fame nature with the carfe of FaU kirk, and reckoned rather fuperior in quality* Prior to the year 1750, this land was let at a low rent. At that period, a new leafe was granted, at i8d 4d pe^ acre, in tlie year

of Borrovfjlownnejs^ ' 425

17701 toother kafe was granted at L. i : 18 :6d per, acre, ^nd in A. D. 1792, the laft leafe was granted at L. 2 : los per acre. The valued rent pf the pariih is L. 35 59 : 8s Scots, and the real rent at prefent is reckoned about L. 3000, ex- clufive of the coal and fait. In generaly the ground over all the pariflx is in good order, and capable of the higheft ini« provement. , A farmer employs 2 or 3 ploughs, with fome- times 2 horfesj and fometimes 4 in a plough* No oxen are employed for the purpofes of hufl>andry, and grain appears a greater objeA than pafturage. The average price of a good faorfe reared in the pariih, and 5 years old, is L. 20. A good cow of the fame age, is fold at L» 6. Beans, wheat, peas, barley, and oats, are fown in rotation* Beans, peas, and oats are fown in March and April ; barley in April, and the beginning of May ; wheat for the mod part is fown in Sep« . tember and 0£lober. If the feafon is favourable, harveft be- gins in Auguft, and ends in 0£lober. The crop is reaped by domeftics, day-labourers, or fervants hired for the purpofe, and their wages vary according to contingent circumftances. Within thefe 20 years fown grafs has been introduced into the parifl], and pretty good crops of hay have been produced. Befides many clumps of young firs in a thriving ftate, there are upwards of 70 acres of natural wood in the vicinity of Kinnielhoufe.

/iJrnV^j.— The Duke of Hamilton is proprietor, and fupe- rior of the whole parifli of Borrowftownnefs, except the farm of l^uir-houfe, afterwards to be mentioned *» it holds of the Crown by a charter from Charles 11. His Grace the prefent Duke tiever refided in the parifli. The houfe of Kinniel, an ancient feat of that noble family, is large ai)d habitable. It is buiit on the top of a beautiful bank, about 50 feet above the level of the fca. The architcfture fceras ancient, though

Vol. XVIII. 3 H not

4^8^ Statijlical Account

Baptifmsfor 7ycars, from 175210 1759,— ^17.— ^-87+,

Deaths^ ... 505. 724,

Marriages, . - . I28.«— ^iBrt

Twins born in the parifh for 10 years, from 1784, 6 times.

In the pariQi, there is one minlfter of the £ftablilhed Church, one preacher, three ftudents of divinity, mod 293 difienters, including all fe^aries and their children *• The Antiburghers only have a place for public worflup $ but no minifter* The Burghers were connedXed with a congregation in Linlithgow.

Town. — Borrowftownnefs is a Burgh of Barony, governed by a baillie appointed by the Duke of Hamilton. No cer« tain information can be obtained when it was built, or when it was ere£led into a Burgh of Regality ; but it was made a Burgh of Barony, when the Jurifdidion A€t was repealed in 1748 f. It is fituated on the north-eaft corner of the pariih, almoft on a level with the fea* At high-water, the tide wafhes the north fide of the town. The two principal ftreets are narrow, and running from weft to eaft, about 300 yardSf termmate in one, which is continued about 350 yards farther. The houfes, bearing the marks of antiquity, are low and crouded; but for the moft part, cleai^ and commodious* The fmcke from the coal-works, was lately a great nuifance» The town involved continually in a cloud, the houfes were blackened with foot, the air impregnated with vapour, and (Irangers were ftruck with the pandemonian appearance of

the

• Burghers 153, Antiburghers loj, Cameroniansjy. t Borrowdowiiacrs is a regular pod town.

of Borrowftownneff. 429

the place. But thcfc nuifances being now removed from the immediate vicinitjr* to a confiderable diftanccy and more at- tention paid to cleaning the ftreet^J, the air is more pure and falubriouS) and the town aflames a very diflFerent afpetl. Still, indeed, the fmoke from the Grange coil works on the eatl| the Bq-nefs falt-pans on the weft, and the duft excited by the carts carrying coals to the quays for exportation^ occa« fionally incommode the inhabitants.

An elegant building, faid to be an exad model of Inveraray houfei was built at the head of the harbour, about 20 years agd, by the Duke of Hamilton. The ground floor was in- tended for a Prifon, the fecond for a Court-room, and the attic ftory, for a School. But, the original intention not having been carried into execution, this fine building is going to ruin. Any rooms in repair, are employed as granaries. If' the original defign were executed, the houfe would be h%hlj ufeful and ornamental to the place.

Water is fometimes fcarcc in fummer, the coal-mines hav- ing diverted all che fprings from their former channels. It is to be found, however, at a fmall diftance from the town, in great abundance, and of as^excellent quality, fit for every domeftic purpofe. It is propofed to bring it to the town by {>ipes, for the benefit of the inhabitants. Crowded as the houfes may appear to a ftranger, no bad confequences are felt. No endemical difeafes prevail. The epidemics, fuch as the fmall-pox, meafles, chincough, &c. are not more frequent than in other places. Dyfenteries are very rare; and fevers, when they cfo prevail, are in general of a low, nervous clafs. It has been obfcrved, that health is enjoyed in a greater degree about Borrowftownnefs, than in many other towns of its fize and population. This is eafily accounted for. The ihore is waihed by the Forth, twice every 24 hours, when^ from the influx and reflux of the river, a great eva- poration

, 30 Statijlical Account

poratton of vegetable effluvia muft impregnate the atmof* pher« ; which, combined with the vapours from the falt-fans in the immediate neighbourhood, will correal; s&ny feptic qua« lit J in the air. The walks about the town^ are romantic and inviting -, the walks on the quays, and on the weft beachj are, at all times, dry and pleafant, much fitted to promote health and longevity. But here, as in many other places fpecified in the Statidical Account of Scotland, tippling houfes are too numerous. It may be ferioufly regretted, by ihe friends of religion and virtue, that fo many people arc licenfed to vend ardent fpirits in every town and village. Such places enfnare the innocent, become the haunts of the idle and diflipated, and ruin annually the health and morals of thoufands of mankind. Perhaps, if the maU^jtax were aboliflied, and an adequate additional tax laid upon fip^jh fpirits, as in the days of our fathers, malt-liquor wotUd be produced, to nourifh and ftrengthen, inftead, of livl^J* which waftes and enfeebles the conititution : Or» were Juf« tices of the Peace to limit the number of licenp^s ifliied^ by apportioning them to the population of each pjacC) aad by granting them to perfons" of a refpeflable cbara£ler9 a iijiultitude of grievances would be redrefled, to which ttie innocent fpoufe, and the helplefs ^ infant are daily expo** fed. . '

*^ O* a' the ills poor Caledonia ... " E'er yet preed, or e'er wiU tafte, ** Brew'd in hell's black PandemonLa^ « Whifky's ill, will Ikaith her maift*." .

f Scotlaad^'s Skaitb, a little poem of real merit.

'tf Borrowjlownnefrl

Alt

A Lift of the Mechania in iht town of BorrowSownnefs, txelu^ Jive of Journeymen and jlfprenticeu

Bakers

II

Mafons and flaters 3

Barbers

S

Taylors - • 10

Blackfmiths

7

Shoemakers * - 15

Butchers

3

Weavers - - 6

Clock and watch-makers

2

Joiners, glaziers, cart-

Coopers

3

wrigbts, &c. - 15

There is i furgeon, 1 writer, i brewery in the town, anA I diltHIery in the parifh*

Wages ^ and Prices of Provifums*

' Average wages at prefent. 20 years ago*

A man-fervant per an. £• 10 and viftuals, L. 6.

'A maid-fcrvant per an. L, 3 L i : i o.

A labourer per day, 163d, without vi^iuals, i s«

Average prices of provifions, per Dutch lib.

The pTcfent year. At Whitfunday, At Martinmafs. Beef, from 3d to 4d,

Mutton, 5d 3J-,

Vcal, 5d 3d,

Lamb, 5d 3d,

Pork, 4d,

Poultry, 3s and 3s 6d per pair, Eggs, 4d to jd per dozen. Butter, pd or ltd per lib. Tron wt. Cheefc, 3d or 2^f per lib. do. Meal, IS or IS 2d per peck.

20 years ago*

from 2dJ to 26}

2di to lif

2d to 2dl

8d to 9d per quarter.

I s 6d per pair. 2d per doren. 5ddr6dperlib.Tronwi. 2d per lib. do. 7d or 8d per peck.

Harbour. — ^It does not appear by any record extant, when the prefent harbour was begun. Very probably about the

beginning

432 Siatijlical Mcmnt

beginning of this century, t^e weft head or pier, had been fo far carried out* 'Before that period, it is faid, veflels were loaded and unloaded at low water, by means of a caufeway^ run out into the mud. The eaft head was begun in the me* mory of old people yet alive ; and had not been built above one third of its prefcnt length, when an incrcafc of trade oc** cafioned an application to parliament, for an impoft of two pennies Scots on the pint of ale and beer brought into, or brewed in the town, for repairing and enlarging the harbour. This was obtained in 1744, for 25 years, and was renewed for 25 years longer, in 1767, and extended over the parifli ; and again, in 1794, continued for 21 years, with the addi- tion of an anchorage duty of id^ per ton, on crery.ihip enter- ing the harbour. Thefc duties, arc under the management of I ; Truftees, ele£led from the merchants and fhip-mafter$, who have been enabled, from time to time, to make great improvements on the harbour. One of great importance, a bafon for cleaning the harbour, was executed about 30 years ago, by the late Robert M^Kell, Engineer. A double wall, moated in the heart, was run acrofs between the two picrS| inclofinj^ about one fourth of the harbour, on the land fide, and having '4 fluices* During fpring tides, thefe fluices are regularly opened, and {hut at full fea, when a great body of water is retained* At low water, the fluices are opened ; emptying the bafon with fo rapid a current, that in the courfc of a few years from the ere£):ion, a great increafp to the depth of water in the harbour, was made, and continues to be maintained at a very fmall expence. This bafon*walI, being of fimilar breadth with the two piers, has given great accom- modation to trade; and from it alfo, a middle pier has been built, parallel to the other two. The addition juft now fi- nifiied of 160 feet t the eaft pier, not only gives more room for fhipping, but cloifis in the harbour fo completelyj from I the

of Borrowjlownnefsm 433

die north and eafterly ftonnsj to which it had been much ex« pofed^ that at prefent it may be fairly confidered as one of the fafbft harbours in North Britain, and alfo one of the eafieft ac« cefs. The depth of the harbour in fpring-tides, is from 16 to 18 feet. The piers, bafon, and harbour may include about 2 Englifh acres. It is propofed, as foon ak circumftances will allow, to have a dry*dock, which can be conreniently fituated on one fide of the bafon^ and will be another material im«^ provement*

Ship-building and Shlps.'-^ht Borrowftownnefs, fliip-build* Ing has been carried on pretty extenfively for 40 years* There are 2 builders at prefent, of confiderable eminence in their profeflion, who employ from 30 to 40 men conftantly 1 and build veflels from 40 to 3 ;o tons burden. One (hip ia now bulldmg for a Company at Greenock, of nearly 400 tons.

The (hipping belonging to the town, are at prefent 25 fail | whereof 17 are brigantines, of 70 to 170 tons per regifter^ and 8 fail are Hoops, from 20 to 70 tons per regifter ; employ- ing about 170 men and boys. Of the brigantines, 6 are under contra A to fail regularly once every 14 days, to and from London. They are all fine veflels, from 147 to 167 tons per regifter. The remaining 1 1 brigantines, and I of the (loops, alfo a good ve(rel, are chiefly engaged in the BaU tic trade. The other 7 floops, are for the canal and coaling. The (hipping of the port, including all the creeks, are faid to be nearly 10,000 tons per regifter; and thofe of Borrow* ftownne(5, make about one fourth of the whole*

Tra^.*-^everal branches of commercial and mechanical induftry are carried on at Borrowftownnefs* A pottery wae begun on a fmall fcale in the year 1784. Within thefe ) *

VoL^-XVIII. 3 X jtartg

434 SMiJiical Account

years, St has been carried on upon a muck more ettenCTe" pbm At prefent, it employs nearly 40 perfons; including men, Iwys, and girls. The clay for the ftone-ware is im* ported from DcTonlhire. The clay for the earthen- ware it found in the parifli. Cream-coloured, and white ftoncrware, plain and pamted, and brown earthen-ware, are the articles principally manufadlured. A manufa£bire of foap belonging ta a company in the town, is carried on to a confiderable ez« tent. It employs 6 men, and pays ann^ally to Gorernment^ about L. 3000 fterling. Whale-fiQiing has been often and long attempted} but without fuccefs. It is now entirely given up. ilerring-fifliery was very fuccefsful in the Frith laft feafon *. But as it is a new fpeculation in the placc» nothing certain can be faid on the fubjedi* Small quantities of flounders and whitings are taken during ftream-tides, in the run of Avon-water, weft of the harbour, and moftly by the coalliers who ufe hand-nets. Some likewife are taken ia cruives* It has long been thought, that this fiihing mi|^ turn out to much more account, were it followed with atten- tion and ikill, as good haddocks have frequently been caught in the neighbourhood.

Many of the women in this town, and the country aroundf earn a comfortable fubCftence by fpinning iilk» the wafte of Sptttalfield's manufa£lure, fent by fea from London to agents here, who return the yarn to be manufaAurcd into ftocking^ epaulets, &C

Coal and fait are the principal exports of the place, and Ibe imports are grain, timber, tallow, hemp, flax, and flax- feed^

* Thofe who are intelligent on the (ubjeA of this fiihery, remtrk, that Seoordtng to the refult of the beft obfefvation; the heniogs after baTing let Into the Frith lad year, (r794,— 95,) in fach abnndaBce^ may be eipeQe4 ^ letnm in many fhtore years*

of Borrowfiownnefi. 435^

feed, with oilier Baltic and Dutch goods. The eiportation of coal to Holland, had become tery early a cohGderable brancli of trade here ; and Borrowftownnefsi for the fitft $0 or 60 f^rs of this century, was a great mart for Dutch goods of all kinds, particularly flax, flax-feed, and old iron. But as the manufadures of this country advanced, fo as to in« creafe the demand for Dutch flax, the traders and manufac* turers in other places, found their way to a direA importa- tibn into their own ports, and though there are ftill two con« fiderable manufaf^ories for dreffing flax here, and large quan- tities imported, both for drefling and felling rough, yet this branch has greatly decreafed in comparifon with what it once Was ; and the Baltk trade now chiefly confifts in the articles formerly mentioned.

The commerce of this town with the Baltic, as well as that of Leith, Grangemouth, and fome other places on the ea(t coaft, was greatly enlarged during the war with America. That country had been in ufe to fupply Britain before the War, with large quantities of timber, iron, tar, pearl and pot-aihes. The American trade being fufpended by the war, not only all thefe articles were imported, from the Baltic to this eaft coaft, and by the merchants on this fide of the ifland ; but thofe of the weft, to fave the riik of capture ' In a circuitous voyage round the highlands, made their im* portation of \hofe goods into the Frith of Forth, to be carried from Bo-nefs and Grangemouth, through the great canal, t6 Glafgow. Great quantities of tallow and hemp, were alfo .brought over during this period. The trade then enjoyed by this and other ports in the neighbourhood, was happily im« proved, to furniih the means of an extended commerce for feveral years aftgr the peace was concluded, A. D. 1783. ' It is only fince 17939 the commencement of theprefent French war^ that the trade of this town has decreafed, in

3 I ^ common

'4^ Statijlkal Acemnt

common with Ac commerce of other ports trading to Ac Bri-^' tic ; and Acre is every reafon to hope for a revival, when the Weffing of peace ftiall be rcftof ed ; an event carneaiy to be ifc- fired by all Ac friends of human kind.

The corn-trade, boA BritiA an4 foreign, is very confide- rable here. In 3 large granaries, and in fome fmaller ones. Acre is very good accommodation for above 1 5,000 bolls*

Grangemouth, South Queensferry, and NorA Queensfcr- ry, St David's, Invcrkeithingi Lime-kilns, Torry, and Col- rofs, arc united to the Cuftom-houfe of Borrowttownncfs ; but the annual revenue received^ excluding Acfc creeks, will, on an average, amount to about L.4ooo. The falt^duty amounts to about L. 3000 per annum. The buGnefs of Ae Ouftom-houfe employs about 44 officers.

ComI and Sii//.— Coal is f/id to have been wrought in Aia pari A above 500 years ago, and has been continued more or lefs fmce that period. The depth of the pits now in ufe 13 about 42 fathoms. The feam of coal, is from 10 to 12 feet in Aicknefs, and is nearly exhaufted. There are va* rious feams, fome of them of a fuperior, and others of a Very inferior quality. All of them have been wrought in difFerent places, and at di^erent times, to a great extent, particularly in and about Bo-nefs. On the fouth-eaft, and on Ae weft, there is ftill a vaft extent of unwrought coal. It is propofed, to fink a pit foon on the weft of the town. The depth, to the principal feam in this quarter, may be about 70 faAoms i but there are fcveral other feams at a much lefs depth. Vari- ous meAods have been adopted, with regard to the manner of working the coal \ but in general, what is called ftoop and throw, has been found Ae moft eligible. The average quan« tity of coal raifed in 12 months, for fome time paft, may be a^bout 44,000 tons* A confidcraUe part of the great coal hag 1 been

of" Borrowjl&wnnefu ^37

been exported, at 73 pd per ton* The remainder haa been difpofed of in the coafting trade, and in the adjacent country. A great many of the chew-coals* are carried by the contraA (hipping to the London marketj at 6s per ton. The greatefl: part of the fmall coal is confomed by the falt-works, which confift of 16 pans, and employ about 30 falters and labourers. The annual quantity of fait made, may be about 37,000 buihels, which is partly difpofed of in the coafting trade ; but chiefly, for th^ fupply of the country to the fouth and weft of Borrowftownnefs. It is fold at 3s 6d per buftiel^ including duty. But upon the duty, there is a draw-back of 7dT per cent, allowed by the Cuftom-houfe to the purchafer. It is beliered, that the fait- works were ere£led here a conGde* rable time before coal-pits were opened ; and that in place of coal, wood was applied as fuel. Hence, fmall coal retains the name of pan-wood.— The number of colliers, coal-bear* ers, labourers^ carters, tec. employed about the coalliery, may b^ nearly 250.

Ecckjiqflical StaU^ Cffr.— Tlie prefent church of Borrow- ftownnels, is a good plain edifice. Wfien the pari(hes were firft united* in the year 1669, the Puke of Hamilton added • large aifle for himfelf and his tenants. In this form, the church continued till about 20 years ago, when, purfuant to an agreement between the town and the Duke's Commif- fioners, the aifle was taken down, and the church nearly re- built. The two front- corners were extended as far as the aifle had gone ; and the area within the walls, is now an ob- long figure of 69 feet, by 48. The walls and ceiling are

hancifomely

* It was fortkierly mentioned, thftt Eo-nefs is an tlntted parllh. A Ihtle weft from Kinmei-hooTe, the ruins of the oid church and I)tirying-gronnd of Kinniel, are Aiil to be feen. . , .

43^ Statifticai Account

handfomely platftered and ornamentea ; but tht gaBcries ar9 heavy and ill-conftrtt£led. When Bo-nefs was firft detached from Kinniel) the annual inteteft of the ftock» provided by the inhabitants for the minifter's ftipend, did not amount to 800 merks Scots. An A£b of Parliament was then obtained by petition, appointing the Inhabitants to be aflfeiRd, to make up the fum ; and reprefentatives were to be chofen annually^ by common confent of the town and Kirk-Seffion, to fix and levy the tax. During the firil century after the feparatioa from Kinniel, fhe annual aiTeffrnent authorifed by Parliament for making up the 800 merks of town-ftipend, was often le* vied ; but for thefe 40 or 50 years paft, there has been little or no occafion for any fuch contribution. The original mor* tified (lock had been early invefted in land, a miles fouth of the town ; and it is well known, how much the value of this kind of property has rifen throughout the ifland within diefe 50 years. The land which^ during the former leafe, yielded only about L. 20 per annum, now lets for L. 50; and the tenant having inciofed the whole, as he was bound to do by the terms of hisleafe,itis probable, that the rent will be more than doubled at the expiration of the prefent leafe*. To the 800 merki Scots given by the town, the A6t of Parliament obtained by the Duke and Duchefs of Hamilton^ December 1669, appoint* ed the old ftipend of Kinniel to be added, and the whole, to be the conAant ftipend of the minifter, ferving the cure of the united pariihes,— ordering alfo, that a manfeand glebe Ihould be provided by the Duke, and Duchcfsj in place of the old manfe and glebe of Kinniel. The prefent ftipend in Sterling inoney, valuing 3 chalders payable in vidlualj at the Ic^^

gal

* The ftind being already more t|ian equal to the ptyttent of the ftipend^ and ordinary repairs on the church and church-Tard dykes, the managers hate in contemplation, Tome ?ery eflential improTemcnts upon the avcBBca around the church, and upon its internal arrapgements.

of Borrow/lownmfs. 439

fgfX conrerfion of L. 100 Scots the chalder, amounts to I^t3:<^:8d; bcGdes coials, a glebe, confifting of 4 arable a^res^ and 2 of very good palture ; alfo houfe-rent, in liea of a manfe^ which has not yet been provided by the fan^ily of Hamilton. The Duke is alfo at the eiipence of Comma* nion- elements* His Grace is undoubted patron of the pari(h» Theve are 5 fchook in the town and parifli, well attended. The Parochial fchoolmafter, commonly employs an ailiftanti^ smd has generally from 80 to 90 fcholars. He has a falary of 20O merks Scots» (L. 11:2:27-9) befides the perquifitcs oC. his office as Seffiomclerk ; and the fums paid for education at bis fchooU which are as follows,

Engliih and Writing by the quarter^ L. 0 2 6

Latin or French, by ditto. - 050

Arithmetic and other branches of Mathematics, o 3 d Navigation or Book-keeping, per courfe, i f o

The poor in the parifli, are pretty numerous* The funds for their fupport, are the following,

Weekly colleflions at the Church door, amounting an^ nually to about, - « L. 82 o o

Rent of landed property, m 16 12 6

Intereft of a bond ahd a late Legacy, 38 1 1 2

Mort*cloth dues*, annually about f -. 250

L. 139 8 8 The

* At the burials of tkc poor people, a cuftom, almoft oKolete in other parts •f Scotland, is continued here. The beadle perambulates the (Irects wich a bell, and intimates the death of the individual in the following language : '* All brethren and lifters, I let ye to wit, there is a brother (or fifter) depart* ** e4, at the pleafore of the Almighty^ (here he Ufts his hat,) callecT— -«. All " thoic that come to the burial, come at — o'clock. The coipfe is at— -».** He alfo walks before the corpfe to the church-yard, ringing his bell.

t The annual amount of mort<loth dues at the difpofal of the Stifios is trifling, as the people in the country part of the parifli^ and the dilTetenk

corporatbns

440 Statijikal Account

The penfioners who receive regular fupply at prefent, tfe in number 36. Occafional fupplies^ upon proper reconunen- dationj are often appointed to fuch perfons as are reduced to temporary diftrefs. Upon any prefling emergency, the libe- rality of the opulent part of the inhabitants, is exemplary. During the late fevere Mrinterj near Ii. 60 fterling were col« le£ted, and diftributed in the moft judicious manner, by a committee of gentlemen in the town. Begging is ftill com- mon ; but the paupers who go about from houfc to houfe^ are, for the mod part, from other pariflies.

Roads and Milns* — ^Befides feveral crofs*roads, two public Toada run through the parilh ; one from Bonowftownnefs» leading fouth to Linlithgow, and the Cleugh iron-works, ia pretty good 'order, upon which there are feveral toQ-barSt another running eaft and weft, (by the water fide,) frequent- ed i>y travellers from Falkirk and Queensferry. On the river Avon, which (kirts the parifh on the fouth and weft» there are 5 milns, the property of the Duke of Hamilton. To the 2 corn-milns, all the barony of Kinniel are thirled with their oats, and pay as dues the 17th part or peck. Farmers from other parifhes, pay only the half of this multure. There are a flour-milns, which grind flour for Falkirk, Borrowftown- nefs, kc The fifth miln was built for the purpofc of grind- ing malt, for the brewers in Borrowftownnefs i but is cm- ployed at prcfent, in grinding flint for the pottery formerly mentioned. The river Avon is a fine ftream, well fitted for the purpofes of machinery. Falls of confiderable height may found ; and there is plenty of water, unlels when the drought of fummer is uncommonly fevere. The water is alfo per-

fcaiy

corporations in tbe towo, fuch as the (ailors asd msltmcDi keep one, and vecciye the emolumeou.

tf Hornywjlownnefsm 441'

fefibly puTCi except when the torrents ru(h impetuous from the hills, after heavy rains. >

Minerals and Antt^uities.^-^t&At^ coal already mention- ed, iron ftone is dug from a bank in the neighbourhood of Borrowftownnefs, and is faid to abound in other parts of the -parifh. Quarries of excellent granite and free- . ftone, are alfo wrought bn the fouth and weft of the town* Lime-ftone is to be found on the weft end of tlie parifli. A draw-kiln was eredied about 20 jrears ago, and the work carried on to a confiderable extent ; but the quanti- ty and quality of the lime not anfwering expe^ation, it has been diftontinued. '

The Roman wall between t*orth and Qyde, well known in the Hlftory of Scotland, runs through the high grounds, the Whole/length of the parifli. It is ftill diftinftly vifible on the eaft bahk of the Avon. At Inver-avon the ruins of a Roman tower ftill remain. It has been built of common free ftone, and ftands in a very confpicuous place* It appears from, the foundation, that the building muft have been pretty elcrenfive ; and were the rubbifli cleared away, perhaps far- ther information on the fubjeQ might be obtained for the. mntiquarian. In a window of the adjacent farm-hdufe, there i$ a ftone with feveral hieroglyphic charaflers, which, al- though much venerated for their antiquity, are not under- ftood*

ProfpeBs.-^Vxom the brow of the hill, behind the town of Bo*nefs, the afcent is gradual to the fouth, for more than a mile and a half; and the profped ftill varying and extending, is incxpreffibly grand and beautiful. On the eaft, the horizon is boundlcfs, the profpeft reaching the Pentland-hills, Ar- thurVfeat, Edinburgh caftle, and the German ocean. On

Vol. XVIII. ' 3 K thf

44^ Statijlical Account

the north-weft^ tre feen a number of gentlemen's feati, and plantations around them, the whole range of Ochil-hills, the celebrated Grampian mountains, Campfie hilii, and the towering top of Bcnlomond^ This profpeA, which includes alfo a view of the towns on the oppofite coaft, muft charm the. fpe£tator of taftci and afford high entertainment to all who take pleafure in contemplating the fublime and variegated works of nature and art* From the high grounds in a clear daft the eye may take a plcraiing range over part of ii coun- tiesi in cultivation equal, if not fupcrior, to any inScotland*

Mifceltantous Obfervations. — When the navigation by the canal between Forth and Clyde was firft projeded, . it was tUc general opinion, that from the advantageous fituatioa of this town and its harbour, the eaft termination ihould have been here, and not at Grslnge-burn. It would ferve no good pnrpofe at prefent, to point out the caufes which combined tp place the termination otherwife. Suffice it to fay, the public would, in all probability, have been much better accommo- dated, and Bo-nefs would have increafed ten- fold. To prevent this town from fufFering the difadvantages apprehended from the cermination of the canal at Grange-burn, a fubfcription was opened in the year 1782, on an eilimatc for a canal of communication from the harbour of Borrowftownnefis to Grangemouth, fuppofed to cbfl about L. ia,ooo, and fub- fcripiions for L. io,oco were procured. The canal was cut from Avon-water eaft ward, within a mile of the town, and an aquedu6t bridge of ftone built for crofting the Avon. The expence, however, of this work, and that of procuring Jwo Acts of Parliament, together with falaries and heavf incidental charges, ha/1, in 1 789, exhauftcd half the fubfcrip- tion. Doubts were then entertained, whether the navigation could be properly extjcutcd for the cftimatc, as the works i next

^f Borrowjlownnefs. 44^

next the town were forefecn to be very expenfive. It wai judged prudent to have a new furvey by that eminent en- gineer» Mr Robert' Whitworth j who. reported, " That to •* complete the canal properly, L. 17,000 would be wanted." 'By this time, not L. 4000 good money remained, and the work was relinquifhed, till new funds fliould be raifed ; which unfortunately have never yet been procured, and when they fliall be obtained, is at prefent uncertain. The return of peace, with a reviving commerce, may perhaps cncodifdgc former fubfcribers, or animate new ones, to finiih a work of . public utility ; and which would be of fo much local advan- tage to this town and the adjacent country.

It is highly probable, that all the low ground in the parifli, . was formerly part of the bed of the river Forth. This opi- nion eafily gains afTent, becaufe immediately at the bottom of the bank, far from the (hore, and far above the level of the prefent fpring-tides, (hells, particularly oyfter-fliells, are to be feen in feveral places, and in great quantities. At low- water, above 2coo' acres oppofite to the parifh are left dry. It is faid, that a Dutch company offered, for a leafe of 99 years, to fence off* the fea from thefe acres with- a dyke, to prepare them for the purpofes of agriculture, which would have been a vaft acceffion to the carfe grounds of the parifh. But the; projeft failed, and a large extent of ground remains ufeleJTs, (hewing its face twice every 24 hours, to reproach the faftidioufnefs and indolence of mankind.

It appears, as far as the writer of this account has had an opportunity to learn, that the natives of the town and parifh of Bo-nefs, are fond of a fea- faring life. Many able-bodied feamen from this place, are at prefent in his Majefty^s fervice ; and are diftinguifhed for their fobriety, courage, and loyalty. Adventurers from the place, are alfo to be found in the moft diftant parts of the globe. — ^The inhabitants of the town arc

3 Kx itt

444 Stati/lical Account

in general fober and induftrious, and fupport a refpcAabltf character. The inferior ranks are quiet and regular; the fuperior ranks well-bred, hofpitable, and public-fpirited. Though indulgence over the glafs* a charaAeriftic of this prefent age, is too frequent, intemperance or rioting is (eldom to be feen on the ftreets. Religion, it mud be re- gretted, is too much neglected ; yet the fabbath-day is de- cently obfcrved, and divine worfliip attended by all, except by thofe who from ignorance, or from habits of irregularity^ are infenfible to the folid comforts and (atisfa£lio& whicb arife from a life of religion apd virtue,

KUMBEIR

of fojfaway and TuUiebole. 445

NUMBER XVII. PARISHES OF FOSSAWAY & TULLIEBOLE.

(counties of PERTH AND KINROSS.) My the Rev. Mr GRiiiAai.

Ori^n of the Names of Fojfaway and Tulliebole.

^THHE Scots were anciently a nation of warriors; and ^ when not engaged againft the common enemy, the ebieftains often turned their arms againft one another. When at peace, their time was eniployed in hunting, and they na« turally diftinguiihed their hunting grounds, by the various forts of game with which they abounded* Hence the name of Foflaway, or in the original Gaelic, Fafach Fheidh, pro* nounced Fafach hay, is literally " thedefart of deer,'* to diftin- guifh it from the range of mountains to the weilward, called in the original, Mueard, or " the height where the bears refort- ** ed." In the Duke of Atholl's charter, it is written Foffowhcy, which is very near the original orthography* The defart of deer, correfponds with the defcription of OiTian. He makes Fingal fay to Swaran, ** The defart is enough for me with all ** its deer and woods.'*

Tulliebole literally fignifies the Poet's hill : For it is weH luderilood, that every chief had his own bard. By him the

po^ms

44^ Statiflical Account

poems concerning the anceftors of the family, were handed down to pofterity, and were repeated to the whole clan on folemn occaHons. TuUiebole, therefore, feems to haare been the refidence, at a Tcry early period, of fome independent chief, in the fame manner that Tulltbardine, or the hill of the bards, was the feat of the chieftain of the Murrays*

Formerly Foflaway and Tulliebole were two fcparatc parifli* es, and each had its own paftor and church. The annexation, it is faid, took place (bmetime about the year #1614. In the Advocates Library^ there is an ancient manufcript, which is entitled, ** Regiilerof Aflignations for the Minifters' Stipends, " for the year 1574/* In this manufcript, the ftipends of the readers of the two parilhes, are feparately ftated thus. << John Henderfon, reader at Tulliebole, his ftipend, L. 169 ** with the kirk-land, to be paid out of the tbtid of the ab- ^^ bacy of Culrofs," &c. And, <^ Mr Adam Marihall, reader ^' at Fo/Toquhy, his ftipend, L. 26: 14:4, paid thereof, cot «* of the third of the abbacy of Cowpar, by the tackfmen or ♦* parifhioners of Foflbquhy, as the reader (hall choofe/'

Foflaway fies in the county of Perth, Tulliebole in Ktnrob* fhire, and both ate within the bounds of the prefbytery of Auchterardcr, and the Synod of Perth and Stirling, In Keith's Catalogue of the Scots Bifhops, there is an Alphabe- tical Table of all the Pari(hes in Scotland, with the names of the Shire, Diocefe, Prefbytcry, and Commiflariot, in which tzcYi of them is fituated \ in which Foflaway is thus ftated« 1 688. - #

Parijhs. Shintt, Hucefi. fre/hyUrj. C§mmifirUe,

KISTno^^S.} ^"^^' I^»"*°*' Auchterard^. D««bUne.

This is evidence, that both parifties were at an early period in the Diocefe of I)umblane* After the annexation down to the year 1729^ the two places of worfliip> the one at Fofla*

way.

tf Fojawax and TuViihole. 447

way, «nd the other a^ Tulliebole, verc ftill retained, and the minifter who fenred the cure, pr^ched two fahbaths at Fofa* way, and the third at TuUicbole, regularly, and his houfe was at Foflaway. In that year, both the old churches were thrown down, the manfe and glebe at Foflaway were Ibid ; the prcfen^ glebe and church-yard, which are fituated in the parifli of Tulliebole, were purchafed ; and a new church and laanfe were built, in a fituation mose centrical tp both pa« rtibess and more coaveaieot for the incumbent. '

Minifters Names m^ RecpnL'^Th^ firft found on the Seflion Regifter (1609), b Mr Laurence Mercer. It appears that he was aliTe ia the year 1634* From that period, theiejs a deficiency in the regifter* The next mentioned is Mr AleiH andcr Ireland^ ita the year 166 1. He was alive^ in 1687. Then die regifter is again deficient It cannot therefore be afccrtained, in what years chefe clergymen were ordained, or when they died. It is evident, howcTcr, that they were both of the £pi£copal church, belonged to the Diocefe of Dumblane, were ftri^t obfenrera of church difcipKne, and were exceedingly attentive to every part of their Parochial duty. Seflional bufioefs is recorded at confiderable length } public worfliip is mentioned as regularly performed, and the colle&ions for the poor, which were made every fabbath>day, are diftinflly marked. During their incumbencies, the pa- rifti was feldom without divine fervice on the Lord's day ; almoft never without having a reaibn affigned in the record ; fuch as, that the minifter was aflifting his brethren, or was unable to officiate. With regard to Mr Ireland, befides fuch rcafons as thefe, there are other four mentioned fomesii^hat iingular. It is faid in the regifter,

'* No fermon ; becaufe the minifter was at the confecration "in Edinburgh."

« No

44^ Statijlical Account

<< No fetmon; becaufe the minifter was called to Dam<« ** Wane to wait upon the biftiop.'*

'^ No fermon 9 becaufe the minifter was under the neceflky ^' of attending Lord Rollo's burial at Dunning."

<' No fermon; becaufe the minifter was in the Stormont *' feeing his aged father, who was labouring under great « diftrefs.''

Thefe arocations happened at different times, betwixt die year 1661, and the year 1687. There is a deficiency in the regifter, from 1687, to 169 1 ; but from that period, down to the prefenc day, the records are compleat, containing every parochial tranfaftion, relative to church affairs. Five clergymen are mentioned as fuccecding one another, whofe names follow.

Mr William Spence, admitted 21ft September 1691 1 died a3d March 1715* Mr Alexander Barton, ordained 23d April 1712; died 14th June 17 16. Mr Barton, was ordained af- fiftant and fucceffbr to Mr Spence, 3 years before his deaihy and did not furvive him 15 months. Mr Andrew Ure, ad- mitted 25th of April 1717 ; died 7th April 1742. To hint focceeded Mr John Storer, ordained 25th Auguft 1743 ; died 8th June 1778. All thofe minifters are remembered by fome of the parifliioners, who are ftill alive ; and their memory is ftill held in great refped.

Patron.'^ln the fettl&ments of all the incumbents which have been mentioned, no patron appeared. They were elec- ted by the heritors, elders, and heads of families. At the laft vacancy, it was doubtful to whom the right of patronage btlonge^. It was claimed by the crown» and by George Graham, Efq. of Kinrofs. There were of confequence two prefentees. The right of patronage was afterwards deter- mined by the Court of Sei&on \ and was found to be vefted

in

' 9f Fojhway and Tuliiebok. 449

isi Mr Graham, by a fpecial grant from the crown. Thie prefent incumbent was ordained on Mr Graham's prefenta* tion, iithof May 1780.

Churchy Manfcy Glebe and Stipend.-^The chttrch and manfe^ as formerly mentioned, were built in their prefent Gtuation) in 1729* The church is neither commodious, nor in good repair, although it has received frequent reparations fince it was builc. The nianfe and office-houfes were rebuilt in the year 1781, and are neat and convenient enough ; but not f6 fufEciently executed, as might have been expefted from the fum of money expended on them. Heritors, when they arq building churches or manfes, ought to endeavour to have them^ at lead, fubftantially finiihed. This would in the end, fave them a good deal of expence. One would imagine, that a manfc^ which cofts'^L. 300, might be fo built, as to (land ac leaft a century. This, however, was not the cafe with the former One at Foffaway, which was thrown down in its5iil year, by confent of the heritors, who were wearied out in repairing it. Owing to the peculiar fituation of this country, the greater part of the houfes ftand nearly eaft and weft ; and as the molt violent weather, and greateft hurricanes come from the weft^ it is found to be a very hard talk to make the weft gabel proof againft the rain. Particular attention (hould be given to this circumftance, in every houfe built in this part of the country*

The glebe now occupied -by the incumbent, is about 10 Scotch acres^ It was formerly a muir, and is a very poot foil. In the year 1729, it was purchafed for L. 29 : 8s fter* Its foil is a mixture of mofs and gravel, few inches deep ia many places j and lies partly on a bed of mofs^ but moftly oa a bed of very fine fand.

The ftipend of the parifh confifted of 40 bpUs ; two thirdg meal, and o|ie third bear j and L. 56 ; 13 :4d fter. in money.

VoL*XVlIL 3L On

450 Statiftical Account

On a procefs, at the inftance of the prefent m!nifter, die Court ba8 lately granted an augmentation, confiding of 43 boUsy 2 pccks| t Iippie» 2 thirds in meal, and i third ia bear, making the prcfent (lipend to confift of 83 bolls, 3 pecks, and i lippie, 2 thirds in meal, and i third in barley^ and L* 56 : 1 3 : 4d in money.

Situation and E$ctint, — Foflaway con fids of two brancheSf entirely feparated from each other by Tulliebole, which in- tervenes, having one of thofe branches on the northern, and the other on the fouthern fide of it. As the chiwch of Fofla- way (lood on the northern branch, thofe families, who dwelt on the fouthern, were under the necefllty of pafTing either through Tulliebole, or the parifii of Muckart, before they could come to the place of worlhip. This circumftance feems fird to have led to the junflion of the t^)»o parifliest and then to the removal of the church and manfe, from their former fituation, to the place where they now dand, which is much more convenient and centrical. The northera branch of FoiTaway, extends along the Ochil hills, from eaft to wed, and is about 6 miles in length, and 3 in breadth, Tulliebole lies on the lower ground, extending from the bot« torn of the Ochil hills on the north, towards the ClieOi hills- on the fouth $ and from the Crook of Dovan on the wed, to about half way to Kinrofs on the ead. Its fouthern fide jutt out both to the ead and wed, nearly an Englidi mile farther than its northern fide« Cutting off thefe two corners, the remaining fpace will be about 3 miles fquare. To the fouth- ern fide of the parifli of Tulliebole, is joined the fouthern branch of Fodaway, running in a fouth-wed direction, for nearly 8 miles in length, and at an average, 2 and a half in breadth. The two pariflies taken together, do not form m regular figure ; but they are bounded in the following man-

oer^

•fFoJaway and Tultiebole. 451

mcT ; on the fall, by the parifhes of Orwell and Kmrofs ; on the fouth» by Cliefii and Saline \ oh the weft, by Clack- mannan, Dollar, Muckart, and Glen-dovan} and on the north, by the parilh of Dunning*

A map of the parifli of Foflaway, as forming a part of the county of Perth, has been drawn by Mr Stobie, fa£lor to the Duke of Atholl ; and a map of Tulliebole, in conjunflion with the county of Kinrofs, by Mr John Bell, land- furveyor at Edinburgh. Both thefe maps are executed with accuracy, in as far as they regard the two parifliesi but it is not known to the writer of this account, if they have afcertalned the num- ber of acres contained in them. Though both the maps arc executed with precifion, they differ from the defcription which is given here. The reafon is this, above a century ago, the barony of Carnboe, in the northern part of the parifh of Foflaway, was, by an A£l of Parliament, disjoined from the county of Perth, and annexed to the county of Kinrofs. It !s ftill conGdered, as belonging to the parilh of Foflaway y but is of courfe, omitted in the map of the county of Perth, ' and comprehended in Mr BelPs map of Kinrofs-fliire.

By the h6t of Parliament lately pafled for raifing men for his Majcfty's Navy out of every county, the whole of the parifh of FoflTaway is joined with the county of Kinrofs. This naturally leads to the following obfe^vation; that it would be more convenient for Foflaway, if it were for ever annexed to Kinrofs. The diflance from Kinrofs, is only 6 miles of fine road} the diftance from Perth, is ai miles over the Ochil hills. To be obliged to go to Perth for all the buGnefs which mud be tranfa£led there, is attended with a very confiderable degree both of trouble and expence. There is not a refiding Juftice of the Peace in the whole parifh of ^Foflaway. If it were united to Kinrofs-fhire, it would be

3 L a • eqtally

45^ Stati/Kcal Account

equally in the vicinity of the county courts, sukl of the Juf- tices of the Peace.

Climate^ Surface^ ScilandAir^ — ^The lands in both pari(he$ are in a high fituation \ the froft begins fooner, the fnow fallf earlier* and both continue a longer time than in moft of the lieighbouriag parifhes^ Except on the banks of the river Dovan, or at the bottom of the hills, where the effe^l of the fun is confiderable, the northern branch of Fofiaway is the coldeft didrid* It is one continued range of hills* The hills are of various heights, from 600, perhaps to iioo feet perpendicular above the level of the fea ; yet they afford ex- cellent pafture^ both for iheep and black-cattle* Some of the hills have mofs and heath \ but the.greateft part of them .

is covered with grafs, to the very fummit. Tuliiebole, and {

the fouthern branch of Foflaway, lying lower, are warmer^ |

On thefe parts, there are fome mofs, fome marfhy ground, and fome little hills $ but by far the greateft part is arable Und* The foil is various $ fome gravelly ; fome clay ; fome |

tilly ; fome loam \ and all thefe foils are capable of confide^ ]

Table improvement. Tulliebole, although in appearance it refembles a plain country, when compared with the hills oa the north and fouth; yet contains the highcft grounds <^ any parifh in the plain, between Stirling and Kinrofs* Here the fprings of water divide themfelves, fome running weft towards Stirling, others eaft towards Kfnrofs. In a dry fummer, there are more frequently flying (howers here, than any where around. Thefe (howers are fometimes feen coming from the fouth-weft, along the Ochil-hills, and the Cleifli hills at the fame time \ and when they come oppofite to TulHcbolc, a part of them has been obfervcd to feparate oa both fides, from the main body of the clouds, and meet oq 9 rifing ground, adjoining to the Crook of Dovan. From 3 the

of Fqffaway and TidJiebole. 453

the attr»£iion of the hills on either fide, there is more cloudy Rod rainy weather* and later feafons here, than in many other 4iftTi£l5 ; yet the fituation is abundantly healthful ; the high winds carry off the vapours ; and the dreams of water having great declivities on every hand, little ftagnating water remains; 9nd when the fky is clearj the air is uncommonly pure and 4ry. •

DiJiafeSf-^Thstt arc no peculiar difeafcs which prevail in the pariih. An ague, or a bloody-fiux» ^re feldom heard of; fevers are perhaps more common than any other difeafe. A fever, which at its firft appearance, feemed to be of the ner«- Tous kind, but which in the end became putrid, carried off many about 2 years ago. Few families efcaped ; and it ez-i tended to many of the parilhes around. The medicine which proved mott fuccefsful, was the jefuits bark given with port- vine. This remedy when applied in time, under the direc* tion of a profeflional man, was cdmmonly fuccefsful. Wq fometimes hear of a confumption ; of a cancer ^ and of a dropfy. A few years ago, a woman died, who had been tapped for a dropfy 16 times, and after all recovered. The quantity of water taken from her at thefe difierent times« was calculated to be 84 Scotch pints. She died, when far advanced in life, not of a dropfy, but of complaints arifing from old age. Rheumatic complaints are not uncommon. Children frequently die of the fmall-pox. Againft inocula* tion, there is amongft the lower claiTes of the people, an almoft univerfal prejudice, of a religious nature, which nei- jther example, nor precept, nor the reafonable terms upon which inoculation can be obtained, have yet overcome*

Though the two parifhes taken together, form a large and populous diftri£l, there is not "z phyfician, nor a furgeon, nor a midwife in either, Women in child-be^ have, how- ever,

454 Stati/iical \4ccMni

ever, good afliftancc at no great diftance ; and they arc, in general, very fortunate. Good medical aid is alfo to be had from all the neighbouring towns. It is alfo reafonabie to acknowledge with gratitude, that the united pariflies lie under peculiar obligations to the Royal Infirmary of Edin^ burgh. Several perfohSi of late^ labouring under various complaints, have been received into the Infirmary, recomv- mended to the phyficians by heritors, or by the minifter, all of whom received great benefit fiom their refidence there ; and mod of whom were fully reftored to health. If the fi« nances of that houfe (hould at any time be deficient| tht managers are well entitled to the public aidf

Population^ Annual Baptifms, Man-iages, Burials, at an average often years.

35 . 9 25

The number of inhabitants at prcfent, is 1505. Of thefe^ J065 belong to the Eftabliftied Church; there are 388 Anti- burgher- feceders ^ 48 Burghers; 2 Epifcopalians j 1 Camo* ronian \ and i Roman Catholic.

Under 10 years of age, Males 138 Females - 138

Betwixt I o and 20 - 176 — ^— — - 1^2

■ 20 and 50 - 272 ■ ■ • 339

—- 50 and 70 - 112 ■■ - 125

■i 70 and 80 - 23 ■ - 19

»■ 80 and 90 *• 6 — --— - • ^

Total Males 727 Total Females 7 78

The females exceed the males in number 5 u The oldeft perfon in the pariih, is a woman, who completes her 90th year in December next. She is ilill able to walk, and to

%in.

cfFoffaway and TulUehole. 455

Qnn^ and fees more difttnAly, than when at the age of 70. The number of married perfons is 456, and the number of children from each marriage, between 5 and 6. The num- ber of families is 340^ and the number of perfons in each fa- mily, between 4 and 5. The number of inhabitants has been decreafing for feveral years. In the year 17551 by the return made to Dr Wcbftcr, the number was 1765. In the year 1771, it was 1828; in the year 1780^ 1716; in the year 1785, 1610} and it has been ftated as at prefent only 1505* Many reafons can be given for this diminution of numbers. A few years ago, feveral weavers, mafons, and houfe*carpenters, with their families, went into towns, where they found more ready employment, and higher wages. Se- veral gentlemen having inciofed their lands, they have let diem in ^Cs, and have no fixed tenants } others, having taken the pofleflion of them into their own hands, and going on with their improvements, have difmifled feveral of their cottagers; the new mode of ploughing without a driver^ which now very much prevails^ has leflened the number of farm-fervants ; and the union of different farms has alfo had its influence. When agriculture is carried on by employing ^cottagers, they not only remain longer than other fervants on the fame farms, but by having families, and a fettled re« fidence, they add greatly to the number of the inhabitants. Hired fervants frequently change their Ctuations every half* year, and having nothing to attach them to one fpot, feldom continue long with any one matter. To give encouragement to cottagers, and villages, on . proper regulations, would be •f fervice both to proprietors, and to the community at large.

Stature^ and general CharaBer of the Inhabitants. — ^The ft*-' ture of the inhabitants is not above the middle fize* The height of the talleft man in the pari(h, is about 6 feet 4 in- ches.

45^ Stati/lical Account

ches. It hath been obferrcd, that thofe of the middle fite^ are in general more robuft^ have fewet complaints, and live longer, than thofe who are above the ordinary ftature. Al- though few of the original inhabitants of the parifh have been much diftinguiihed by their talents» they are not deftitute of iiatural abilities^ Their natural difpofitions are friendly^ generous, and humane. They are contented with their fi* tuations, and are not difpofed to leave the place of their nati* Irity. Their religious principles are various, as appears front irhat is already dated. Few, except the gentlemen, con* terfed much about political affairs, till the works of Thomas Paine appeared^ Since that time, the people convetfe more frequently on thofe topics. It is, however, but doing them juftice to fay, that they are firmly attached to the Conftitu- tion of this country, as eftabliihed at the Acceffion of King William, and to the perfon and government of his prefent Majefty. They are in general adive, and induftrious. Befides the bufinefs of agriculture, they apply to the common trades pradifed in the country* There are taylors, (hoemak- rrs, blackfmirhs, mafons, carpenters, and weavers; all of them well employed, and able to provide for their families^ The day. wages of a taylor, is 8d, and pd, befides his vic- tuals ; of. a mafon and carpenter, from i s 6d, to is. Wea** vers are employed partly in the manufacture of the cloth nfed in the pariih ; and partly by the manufacturers of the neighbouring towns. There is only one baker in the parifli* The inhabitants for whom his labour is not fufficient, receive a fupply from the tpwns in the vicinity.

Parochial Improvements. '•^l. Houfes. Within the laft It years, 24 new houfes have been built; though from the re-^ moval of tenants and cottagers, a greater number have either fallen into ruins within that pcriodj or have been

demolifiied^

of Tqffaway and TuttiiboU. 4g f

Itemblifhed. The greater part of the houfes lately biiilt^ are intended for the accommddation of the proprietors of land ; artd are built with (lone and lime, iti a very convenient and fubftantial manner, fuited to the property arid revenues bf their owners. There are two aticient houfes in the pa- riflies, commonly diftin^uiihed by the name of caftlcs, ot h>wers; that of Talliebole, akid that of Aldie. They are both pUces of ftrength, or fortaliccs, with gun-holes and turrets, fuitable td the times in which they were built. Thd caiUe of Tulliebole was built in the year 1608 ; the caftle of Aldie, in the century preceding. The oiie is the family feat of MoncreifF- Well wood of Tulliebole, . the other of Mer* cer of Aldii?. As the proprietors* however, do not reOde in them, they are faft going into dlf-repair ; yet it is hoped^ and indeed it id pleafing to the country to think, that thofe tnonumentsof antiquity may (till be kept up. At tio great ex- pence, they may be made to (land for centuries. la different parts of the parifhcSf there are houfes built adjoining to each Other, to the number of 10 or 12 ; poffeffed partly by feuard 'and tenants, and partly by cottagers \ yet thefe ate not knowii by the name of villages. There are only two village^ in the pariilies ) one at the Crook of Dovan, and the other at Blairingone. They are both burghs of barony. The former holds of the family of Tulliebdle, the tatter belcfngs to thtf family of AthoU ; both of them have the privilege of holding markets. At the Crook of Dovan, there are two markets an« tiually, the one in May, the other in Odtober. At Blairin- gone, there is ope held in the month of June. Little bufinefs is tranfa£):ed at the Blairingone markets \ bot the Crook mar« kets, which are for black-cattle, being pretty well attended^ may with attention and care, be brought to conliderable per- fefiion, and prove very ferviceable to the country at larget The only public houfes in the pariflftSj are in thofe tillages | Voti XVUI. 3 M ttr«

45S Statijltcal Account

t^o at the Crook of Doran, and two at Blairingotif • They may perhaps be all neceflary^ as, independant of the markets^ both villages are on the high road, and Blairingone adjoining the Duke of Atholl's coal-Mrork ; but it is univerfally foundf that too many houfesi where ardent fptrits are fold, do hurt both to the morals and circumftances of the people.

2. Inclofures. Since the year 17829 above 2000 acres of land have been inclofcd. The fences are partly made with ftone, partly with ditch and hedge. The inclofures arc of various dimenfions, fuch as beft fuited the fituation, defign^ and extent of the farms ; they are of all fizes, from 5 to 43 acres. Where they are intended only for pafture, they ex« tend to nearly an 100 acres. A (lone dyke is the mod im- mediate, and mod fecure fence. A hedge in this climate, is flow in growing, but when reared, ferves both to beautify and (belter the grounds ; and this country, lying high, being much expofed, and having hitherto little advantage from trees^ ftands much in need of fhelter. Proprietors, how^ ever, are providing on their lands, a remedy for thefe incon* Teniences, by planting.

3. Planting. Planting till of late was not much attended to \ there is indeed fome natural wood, and fome fmall plan- tations, in various parts of the parifhes, which have been ad- vancing for a confiderable time. They are fufficient to (hew^ that trees will fiourifh in the foil. This is indeed demonftrat- ed by the trees, which according to an old cuftom, obferved in moft parts of Scotland, have been planted around the barn-yards. Thefe, which confift chiefly of a(h, plane, and Scotch fir, have grown, even in the higheft grounds, to a very confiderable fize, confidering the time when they were planted. Planting is, however, now become faOiionable, and is proceeding with rapidity. Within the laft 8 years^ about 800,000 trees have been planted* Some of them on

the

ofFqffaway and TuUieboJe. 45^

the lands of Tallicbolc ; fomc of them on the northern, but the grcateft number on the fouthern branch of Foflaway. They a* partly in larger plantations, partly in fmaller ftripes; and where they are fufficicntly fenced, arc, in general, in a thriving ftatc. The trees are of various kinds ; Scotch fir, plane, larch, oak, elm, beech, aih, fpruce fir, and laburnum. The Scotch fir are in the greateft num- ber ; and the larch grows quickeft. The laft will foon add greatly to the beauty of the country, and afford excellent ihelter.

Cultivation and Produce of the Parijbes •'^Somt of the origi- nal inhabitants ftill retain the old method of ploughing, ufing the old Scotch plough, and joining oxen with horfes* Thofe who are attached to the old modes of farming, are fo far from troubling themfelves with improvements, that they are not fond of changes of any kind. If a large ftone lies in the field, or, if the furrows are drawn crooked, they are un- willing to remove the one, or alter the other ; obferving that they were fo in their fathers days, and that the crops were as good then as they are now. The greateft part of the farmers have happily different views. The new method of ploughing with two horfes, and Small's plough, is very generally a- dopted. In the improvement of their lands, a confiderable number of the farmers fpare neither pains nor expencc. They bring ploughmen from every quarter, and have brought the art of ploughing to a very high degree of pcrfcftion. The number of ploughs cannot be afcertained ; becaufe on the fame quantity of land, the number varies according to the culture in ufe. The ploughs in the pariffi of Foflaway, according to the ftatute work, arc upwards of 50 ; thofe of the parifii of TuUiebole, about 24 ; more ploughs, however, are occafionally ufcd. Bcfides, feveral of the proprietors

3 M 2 and

^6o Siatijlical Account

and farmers, keep young horfes for the harrow. Becaufe tb€| froft continues long in the fpring, they fow, in general, later than the people on the coaft, and confcquently r^p later* Wheat has been tried in Tulliebole, and in the fouthern part of FoiTaway ; but the climate and foil are perhaps again (I it. The fureft crops are oats, barley, and peafe. The grpatcft part of Tulliebole, and the low lying parts of the northern branch of Foflaway, are of a {harp gravelly foil, and fcldom fail in pro- 4ucing good crops. The fouthern branch of Foflaway, being a mixture ^of loam and clay, Mrill alfo bring forward beans, and in good feafons wheat. Thcfc are not, however, fo furc a crop as oats, barley, and peafe. Both parifties taken together, not only fcrve themfelyes with grain, but fend a confiderablc quantity to market. Lint is every where fown for family ufe, ^nd when properly managed makes a good return. All green crops, if the feafon is not very unfavourable, fucceec) yrell. Potatoes, turnips, clover, and rye-grafs, when the ground is properly prepared, feldom faiU On the eftate of Foffaway, from which the pariih derives its name, which lies high, being fituated partly on the Ochil hills, very con- fjdcrablc improvements are at prefent carrying on, by the proprietor, who poiTefles part of the lands himfclf. Laft fea- fon, there was raifed a rich crop of turnips, to a large ex- tent; and nearly 300 boHs of potatoes, which were exceed- ingly fine. This feafon (i7g5), not only grafs, but almoft every other crop promifes well ; not only there, but in fcvc- rai other parts of both parifhes.

* Proprietors i Farmers ^ Farms and Rent, — ^Thofe who pofleHi lands, either as proprietors, or tenants, are above iioj be- Cdes a few tradefmcn and^ cottagers, who poflefs as much ground as will maintain one or two cows. Thefe fmall Dortions of land^ arc heje called pendicles, as dependingr

of Fojfaway and TulUehole. 461

Upon, either the proprietors land, or the larger tenants, from whom they are fet off, ^pr fervices or labour pcrfowned by th« perfons who occupy them. None of the moft confiderabl^ heritors refide in the parifli ; but almoft the whole of the fmall proprietors and feuars do. The jun£lion of farms does not hapr pen fo often as it otherwife might, becaufe the chief part of the fmaller heritors poiTefs their own lands, which have neither in« creafed nor diminiihed for many years. There are farms of all dimenfions, from L. 10 to L. 100 per annum. There are none :^bove L. 100, pofTcfled by tenants, except 3 ; and one of thefe is rented at L. 300 per anttum. Several heritors, how- ever, poilefs their own lands, which would let at above L. 100 a- year. The value of fliecp farms, may be nearly 3$ per acre; the arable, from 5 s to los; and the inclofed lands, from 158 to above L. i. This is a great encouragement tQ improvement"^ for which, notwithftanding all that is done, there is ftill great room* The valued rent of the 2 parifhes, is L. 4106 : 1 6s Scots. The real rent cannot be fo well af« certained; becaufe many of the heritors having pofTeiTed their own lands from time immemorial, they have not t)een let on leafe. The whole rent, however, may be fafely calculated above L. 4000 fterling per annum. That this is the cafe will be evident, when it is confldered, that there is, including both parities, nearly 30,000 Englifti acres of land. Allowing 6000 for mofs,' water, woods, and rocks, there will ftill remain 24,000 acres ; which, if rented only at 38 4d per acre, will amount to L. 4000.

The fize or extcnf of farms, has never been fixed here ; 9nd it would, indeed, be difficult to fix it ; as men, no (}oubt, would be divided in their opinions. It would, how« ever, be for the advantage both of the proprietors, and the f ountry, that cultivated farms ihould neither be too large, fipf too fmalK

There

46% Statiflical Account

There IS one circumftancc, which deferves the attentios both of proprietors and tenants. A fulBctent diilin£lion it not always' made betwixt the qualifications which fit a tenant for managing an arable, and thofe which are adapted toa (heep» farm. The fame talents do notrender him equally capable of inanaging both. Tenants arc very careful, not to difcoTcr theif want of knowledge in either, when they are anxious to obtain a farm ; and perfons often obtain (hcep- farms, of which they have noknowledge, who would have managed a cultivated farm well ; while others obtain a cultivated farm which they cannot manage, who delighted in, and fuccecded in rearing iheep. Indeed it feldom happens, that one who has been longaccuftom* ed to manage (heep, has ever much fuccefs in cultivating the ground ; efpeciaily, if he is advanced in life. But bcfides this^ the mader, when letting his lands*, is always too ready to pre- fer the higheft offer. On the otHttriT hand, the opulent. tenant generally offers leaft ; while he, who has little to lofe, offers more, obtains the farm, and in a few years, a fequrftration enfues. It would be more profitablp to a proprietor, to re- ceive regularly L. 90 a- year, from an opulent and refpcftablc tenant, efteemed, ajid fcrviccable in the country, than to be promifed from another L. 100, which he only receives in partial payments, and for which he is often obliged to nfc legal diligence.

Prke of Labour^ f^c. — Tlie wages of an able day-labourer throughout the year, is is per day; the wages of a woman for the harveft, iJd j for men, between lod and is per day; with breakfaft and dinner for both. Some farmers hire their reapers during the whole harveft, and pay to men, between 25s and 30s; to women, between 21s and 255. The wages, however, depend in a gre^t meafure on the demand there is for reapers, and the number that is to be Iiired. The average 3 wages

^f Foffaway and TuUiehole* 463

wages of men-ferrants, throughout the yeari when they cat in the houfe, is L. 7 ; for womeni not fully L. 3. Farmers have a ready fale for every article to be difpofed of^ and there is a conftant demand ; The prices are, in general, regulated by the markets of Alloa and Kincardine on the coa(t| and are commonly a little below the Haddingtoa prices. In the parifhes, there are common rock, and freer ftene for building, mpfs, lime, and coal. Peats may be got im idmoft every corner of both parifties, but are not ufcd in great quantities ; becaufe coal is at a reafonable price, and near at hand* Tliere are lime rocks in different places ; but they are only wrought at prefent upon the lands of Gartwhinziam There are two rocks there, which are wrought by the pro- prietors. The one is on the plain, the other on the banks of the Dovan. The ftrata of the firft are regular, and the ftonc iblid. The lime when flawed, falls at firft into large par- ticles, and then gradually dilfolves into a fmall powder of % cream colour. The ftrata of the other, are confufed and un- equal ; but when flacked, fall immediately into a fine white powder. That upon the banks of the Dovan, is efteemed the whiteft ; but the other is equally ftrong. The lime of both rocks> is at prcfent fold at is per boll, wheat meafure. The fale being wholly inland, is not extenfivc ; yet it is of great fervice, not only to this parifii, but to a confidcrable part of the adjoining Country. The coal which is wrought at prefent, is at Blairingone, and belongs to the Duke of AtholL It is found, however, in feveral other parts of Foftaway, although not wrought. None of this coal is fliipped \ becaufe it is at a diftance from the fea, and befides, the quantity thrown out, is not fufficient to anfwer, throughout the year, the prefent demand. The price of the fmall coal, is 6(\y for 3 burdens i for the great coal, lod, for 24 ftones, Tron weight. The driving of lime and coal, is attended with tlte material difad'

vantage

464 Stati/licdl Account

vantage of bad roads. The noblemen and gentlemen, afej however, exerting themfelves to remedy this evil 5 but it never will be efie£lually done, until turnpikes are eftabliflied. The local advantages which have been mentioned, ought to en- courage tnclofing and improvements ; and fhould induce pro^ prietors and tenants, to exert themfelves, to carry them far^ ther than they have yet been carried ; efpecially as it has bccii found, that land which before being improved, produced nd more than between 5 and 6 bolls, from one boll of feed, have after being improved, been brought to yield upwards of i^ In the pbrifhes, there is alfo iron- done } but at prefent) it if not wrought.

Sheept Hwrfes^ and Black Cattle.-^Tht number of fliecpi does not exceed 3000 ; and they are all, what are here called the Tweed's Muir kind, and pafture only on the Ochil hill5« The farmers have not begun to try the Englifh (heep; although they are more attentive to obtain a good breed, than they formerly were. They have a ready falc for their wool, mutton, and Iamb ; and the mutton and lamb are efteemed good. IVJore flieep might be kept, if they did not breed horfcs and black cattle: Of thefe, fome are bred for private ufe, others for fale. As their number is conftantly varying according to the fales, it is impoffible to afcertain it exadly* Black'cattle arc peculiarly attended to, of which great num- bers are reared. None of them are of the greateft fize \ but they arc exceedingly hardy, and in general, bring good prices. The tenants pay their rents, not only by the fale of grain; but by the profits arifing from their (heep, horfcs, and black* cattle.

Mi/fji. — In the two pari flies,, there are 9 milns. One lint miln, one waulk miln, one for manufadluring pot barkyi an^

ofFoffaway and TuUiehole. 465

jK for meal* The one for lint^ is on the Dovan near the Crook. It 18 well employed, and of general utility. The corn-milns have all a thirlage, that is, fo many proprietors bound by charter, and fo many tenants by leafes, to bring their grain to thofe milns. There is alfo one barony thirled to a miln which is not in the parifh ; which^ from itsdiftance^ It is at all times very inconvenient to ufe ; and in the wintet feafon, almofl: impofliblc. Thirlage operates in every in* ftance as a tax on induftry, and is in a high degree unfavour- able to the improvement of the country. It would perhaps be better for the proprietors of the milns, «is well as for the ge- neral advantage of the country, to fell the thirlage ; which the heritors are not only willing to purchafe, but for which they would give a good price *, though in mod cafes, the con* venience of the fituations would lead them to bring their grain to the fame milns which they ufe at prefent.

Schools. — ^Therc arc two fchools in the parifhes ; one fituated at the Crook of Dovan, and the other at Blairingone. The one at the Crook is the parochial fchool ; and tlie fohool at Blairingone, is for the benefit of the children belonging to the work people of the colliery. The teacher at Biairingone has very fmall encouragement ; nothing but what arifes from the wages paid him by the fcholars, and a fmall fubfcription, which does not exceed L. 9 annually. If nothing more can be pro- cured, it is probable, that in a fliort time this fchool will be given up, to the great detriment of the village. The falary of the parochial fchoolmafter, is L. 5 : 11 : i^d fterling, per annum, in money, with a piece of land, worth about the fame fum \ and the emoluments arifing from the offices of precentor and feflion-clerk. Parochial fchoolmaftcrs com- monly receive a good education, are a body of men of great importance to this country, and certainly deferve much better Vol. XVIII. 3 N encouragement

465 Statijlical Account

encouragement from the landed proprietors^ tban they at prefent receiTe.

State of the P^w.— There are 24 perfons at prefent on the lift of the pari(h poor ; and the funds to fupport them do not much exceed L. 30 per annum. This fum arifes from the in- tereft of money, from parochial coUeflions, and from fomc cafualitieis* There have never been any legal aflcflments in the parilhes. The fum for the fupport of fuch a number of poor, 28 certainly fmalL There are none among them, however, who cannot work a little ; and fome of them only receive a fmall occaGonal allowance, when the prices of grain are high. There are 2 blind women on the lift ; and it is furprtfing how much they can fpin. The fevercft feafon which has happened here for a long time, was in 1782. At that time^ every defcription of men exerted themfelves to affift the poor. A meeting of the heritors, called for the purpofe, thought it better to aflefs themfelves, than to encroach on the parifli monqr lent at intereft. Different quantities of meal were bought, and fold to the people at the common prices in a year of plenty ; and this mode of relief was continued till the fcarcity was no longer felt.

The pariih received fome advantages befides, from the af« fiftance given by Government in chat year, to fome of the northern counties of Scotland. Perth-fliire was included | and FoflaMray being in Perth-fliire, received its proportioi^ which was extremely ufeful ; and was faithfully applied.

Birds and ^adrupeds^^-^Birds, fuch as are common in htllf countries, are found here. Moorfowl, partridges, plover, field-fare, dotterel, wild ducks, ravens, a fmall fpecies of the eagle, the kite ; and in winter, wild geefe. Of quadrupeds, there are foxes^ badgers, otters, pole-cats, haresj and rabbits,

Thofc

^f Toff away and TuUieboIc. 4^7

Thofe who delight to amufe themfelves with the hounds, or with the gun, will always find enough to gratify them here. There are no where greater numbers of partridges and hares. The carnivorous raven is particularly deftruftive to the young lambs. His method of attack is fingular and favage ; when he darts on the lamb, he firft attacks the eyes, and when the animal cries, he feizes on the tongue. The de* ftrujlion of the fox, and of this kind of raven, is an oh]t€t of importance in this country.

Eiymologj of Names of Places. — Dovan, Dobh*an, "fwelling or raging water ,'^ very properly applied to the river Dovan ; becaufe it frequently fwells to a very great height, conCder* ing its fize \ and runs with great rapidity and violence, until it arrives at the banks of Dollar. Gaimey-Garana, ** The un- derwoods '^ There are two fmall rivers, which have both the name of Gairney, which rife in the pariflies ; the oi^e called the Eaft, and the other the Weft Gairney; becaufe the one runs eaft, and the other weft ; and the banks of both in fome places, are (haded with copfe wood. Solfgirth, has had different etymologies affigned to it \ but among others, it hat been fuppofed to be a Saxon name ; which may fignify a Girth', " or fan£luary for the foles of one's feet." It is fituated in a comer of the county, where Fife and Clackmannan*(birea join with it; fo that perfons flying from juftice, from either of thofe counties, would here find an afylum. Near this place, where two rivulets meet, one may place the right foot on Perth-fliire, the left on Fife^fliire ; ftooping down, one may place both his hands in the county of Clackmannan; and while in that pofture, is partly in 3 counties. Blairingone, Blairingoithne ; ** the field of fpears;" So called perhaps from making weapon- (hawings there, and exerciCng people in the ufe of the fpear, near the feat of the chief. For the chieftain

3 N z o£

4^^ Siatijlical Account

of the Murrays had a family feat at this place. The Scottifii fpear vas an inftrument of war much ufed in the lowlands; and was always found to be more than a match for the high* land broad fword. A proof of this, appears in that rencoun- ter which took place between* Huntly and Murray, at Cor- richie, Oflober 28th, 1562* Dr Robertfon, when men- tioning this affair, faith, *^ The highland broad fword is not ** a weapon fit to encounter the Scottifh fpear. In every civil ^' commotion, the fupeViority of the latter has been evident ; ** and has always decided the conteft.*' By ftatute, 1481, chap. 81, it is enaded, that fpears fliall not be made, or fold, that are (horter than 5 ells and a half. Gartwhinzian, from Gart, an head, and Coinnean, a meeting or rendezvous. Every chieftain had a known place of rendezvous, to which the whole clan were obliged to repair, on a fignal given. Tlie Rocky Pinnacle, now .vulgarly called- Gibfon's Craig, is faid to be the real Gartwhinzian, where the whole clan of the Murrays aiTembled to attend their chief.

Antiquities, ^^-Tht antiquities of the pariflie*?, arc the fol- lowing. The Palace-Brae, Car-Leith, Hall- Yard, Monks* Grave, Gallow-Know, Trooper's Dubb, and the Reforms. tion-Clogg. The Murrays of Tullibardine, the piogeoitora of his Grace the Duke of Atholl, were the ancient chieftains of this pariih ; and proprietors of a great many other lands in the neighbourhood. At this day, the whole of both pariflies ftill holds of the Duke of Atholl ; excepting the barony of Aldie, the barony of Tulliebole, the barony of Coldrain, the lands of Pitvar, and one farm belonging to Sir John Stewart of Grandtully. This lad farm, although it lies in the centre of the barony of Carnbo, commonly called Carnbo^tewartt which was disjoined, as before mentioned, from Perth-fhtre, and added to Kinrofs, dill belongs to the county of Perzh.,

^ The

ofFojffawaj and TulKeboIe* 469^

The reafon of this was probabYy the common one f lh»t the vholc property of the family of Grandtully, might be kept in the county where the chief part of therr eftate was (ituated. The old Earls of Tullibardine had a family feat at Blairin* gone, on the north weit fide of the fouthern branch of Fofla* way. The fite of this old building is ftill vifible, and goes by the name of the Palace- Brae.

On the lands of Aldie, there is a jrifing ground called Car* Icith. On the middle of this ground, are the ruins of an old building, perfe£lly circular, and nearly 24 feet diameten Not long ago, the proprietor ordered this ground to be plant- ed, and the ftones were dug up to make the fence. When the work people were going on, they found two ftone cof* fins near the centre. They were 4 feet long, and 3 broad, and contained to all appearance fome human bones and teethf and fomething refembling tallow, which went to afhes, as foon as expofed to the air. One of the coffins was deftroyed, before the woik men attended to it. The other was preferved entire ; and confids of 5 ftones pretty exadly joined toge- ther, and a very large one for the cover. Various conjee* tures are formed concerning chefe ruins. Some imagine^ that it has been a place of worfhip } otherSi that it was a burying place; and that fome perfons of diftin£lion have been buried there. Although a fatisfaAory account of it cannot be given, it is accounted one of the antiquities of the parifti. Aldie, which originally belonged to thc^ Earl of Tullibardine, was given away as a portion, with the beautiful lady Aldia Murray, who was married to William Mercer, laird of Meikkour ; who was brave and generous, and in thoi times of feudal ariftocracy, ftrongly fupported the chieftain of the Murrays. The barony of Aldie received its name from the lady \ and the Mercers upon that occafion aflumed the mullet of the Murrays, as a part of their arms; and

there

470 Statijiical Account

there has been a ver j clore friendfhip between the two fa« n^ilies ever fince.

On the barony of Coldraini or Collin's DrslinSy as it if originallj ftyltd^ there is a place called Hall- Yard, adjoining to the prefent tenant's houfe. Its form is an oblong fquare^ with the corners a little rounded. It contains 3 roods and 36 falls Scottifli meafure of land, confiderably raifed above the furface of the ground, on the north, eaft, and fouth* It is furrounded with a ditch, which at prefent is in moft places pretty entire. It is from 15 to 20 feet wide, and aU though much grown up at the bottom, is about 5 feet deep |

below the level of the yard ; and as there are two or 3 fprings of water in the ditch, it is probable that it was originally filled with water. Within this area ftood a building, which feems to have been of fome note and ftrength ; and from the foundation of which, not many years ^go, large ftones were 1

dug up. The country tradition is, that it was a hunting place, belonging to the Earls of AtholL It belongs at pre- fent, to James Stedmaii of Whinfield near Rinrofs, and is confidered as an antiquity, for the fame reafon as the Palace Brae.

The whole of the barony of Coldrain, originally belonged to the Earls of Atholl. This appears from the copy of a charter of apprifing, in pofrelTion of the above mentioned gentleman. This charter is dated at Edinburgh the 2(kh December 1609. It appears that Umquhille, John Earl of AthoII, father to James Earl of Atholl, Lord Innermay and I

Batvany, owed a debt of 1 7,348 merks Scots, to Sir David Her my of Lethindy ; for which, the whole barony was ad- j

judge. The lands vere adjudged by a fpccial jury, to be '

worth no more than 10,000 merks; and 500 merks to the Sheriff appointed on the bufinefs. As no perfon appeared for tlie family of Atholl^ to fatisfy Sir David in payment,

the

^fFoffaway and TulUehole. 471

•die lands were expofcd to fale, and the tenants, who either held their lands by leafe, or wadfett^ appeared, and were the purchafers* The greateft part of thefe lands, belong in proper- ty CO the defcendantB of the original purch.afers at this very day; but the fuperiortty is vefted in the family of Kinrofs. The price of thofe lands at the fale in 1609, was about 7s 6d per acre, and as they would now rent at nearly that fum, this {hews the great increafe of the value of land.

The lands of Pitvar in like manner, belonged originally to the family of TulHbardine ; and were given away on another occaGon. A clan then at variance with the Murrays, had made a fpreith, or open theft of their cattle, and burnt fome houfes. The clan Murray, under their chieftain, was imme- diately raifed. They purfued the aggreflbrs, and found them in a church, feafting on the cattle. They (hut the gate8» and fetting fire to the church, not a perfon efcaped. This piece of revenge, though cruel, was perfedlly chara£teriftic of the feudal times. " To forgive an injury, fays Dr Robert* '* fon, was mean; to forbear revenge, infamous or cowardly. *^ Hence quarrels were tranfmitted from father to fon, and ** under the name of deadly feuds, fubfifted for many gene*- *' rations, with unmitigated rancour." This action which appeared cruel, and being committed in the church, which was reduced to aflies, was highly ofFenGve to the clergy. They reprefenced it in terms fo highly aggravated, that the Murrays were excommunicated by the Pope. In thofe days» fays the above author, " A fentence of excommunication was ^* no lefs formidable than a fentence of outlawry. Befides' <* excluding thofe, upon whom it fell, from CliTiftian privi- ^' leges, it deprived them of all their rights as men, or as *^ cicizens." Hence, as an atonement, and to make up peace with the church, the chieftain of the Murrays made #yer the lands of Pitvar to the abbots of Culrofs. Thefe

lands

47* Statijlical Account

lands now hold of the crown, as having contc in the place of that abbacy * and the firft minifter of Culrofs, at prcfent, re- ceives the duties payable out of thefe lands, as part of his fti- pend. The name of Pitvar, is flill enumerated among tl\ other lands in the Duke of Atholi*s charters. As it was the mod fouthern part of the lands belonging to the Murrays^ and on the extremity of the county, it is highly probable, that it obtained the original name of Pitvar, by way of diftinc- tion ; Pit, fjgnifying a hollow, and Varar, an old name of Murray. For it is wfrll known, that Vararis JEftuarium was the Latin name for the Murray's Firth. Sometime after this^ a difpute arofe between the Tullibardine family, and the Ab- bots of Culrofs, as to the limits of Pitvar ; when a monk from vulrofs, {landing upon the common between the lands of <5artwhinzian and Pitvar, made oath that he was then (land- ing on the propertv lands of Culrofs. One of the Tullibar- dine party, enraged at his uttering fuch a falfehood, imme- diately run him through the body. Upon examining his "boots, they were found to contain earth which he had brought with him from Culrofs. He was buried on the fpot, and the place ftill retains the name of the Monk's Grave, and is ranked among the antiquities of the pariChes-

When the rights of the Scottifli proprietors came to aflume a regular form, hidorians inform us, that, ** The lands of •* fome were erefted into baronies, thofe of others into rega- ** lities. The jurifdi£lion of the former was extenfive, that ** of the latter, as che name implies, royal, and almoft uri- •* boundtd. All caufe?, whether civil or criminal, were "tried by judges, whom the Lord of the Regality appoitit- ** ed.'* Such power was never granted, but to families of diftindlion. The proprietor of Tulliebole had this jurifdic- tion. Daring the lad century, a quarrel took place between two of his vaflals, at a market in the Crook of Dovan. In

the

of jPtfjfhWay' and TufHehoU^ 47^

|}ie heat of paffion, the one drew his knife, and ftabbsd the other to the heart. When his anger was abated, and he had recolledled what he had done, he immediately fled. A party however, was immediately Tent after him, who overtaking him before he had reached a mile from the place, brought him back* He was kept in clofe confinement all that night. Next day he was tried for the murder ; a jury was fummoncd ; the Lord of the Regality preGded. Witncfles were examined; tht fa^a was clearly proven. The prifoner being found guilty^ was condemned to be hanged the fame evening. The placQ appointed for the execution, was a fmall rifing ground, at the caft end of the village of the Crook of Dovan. As this was the only pcrfon who ever fulFered in the parifli, his death has been ^handed by tradition, from one generation to ano« ther ; and the fmall piece of ground where the g;iIlows was ere£led^ (till goes by the name of. the Gallow-knoW| and feryes not only to keep up the remembrance of this murder^ trial, and execution, but of the jurisdi£]:Lon formerly exercif- ed by the Scottiih Barons. Though no inju(tice appears t0 have been done in this cafe, it is one of the fubje£ls. for which this country ought to be grateful to providence, that the execution of the criminal law is now happily placed ii| better hands.

In ancient times, the Kings ot Scotland had frequent dC^ caGon to pafs from their palace at Stirling, to their palace at Falkland ; and fometimes took their route by the way of TuU liebole. Oue of the King Jamefe?, tradition doe^ not fay which of them^ being to pafa that way, was alked by the fa* mily of TttUiebole to dine. The invitation was accepted* His Majeily's retinue being numerous, and the caftle of TuU liebole not being fufficiently commodious for the whole conw pany, a tent was crefted on a piece of plain ground,^ near a fmall rivulet. The entertainment .was fo very agreeable ta

Vol, XVIII. 3O ^ the

\jjl, Statijtcal Jccwnt

tKc King, that he conferred the honour 'of KniglithooJ tkt his hoft that very day. Amongft the King's attendants, was a trooper much celebrated for his ability in drinking Intoxi- cating liquors. Among the laird of Tulliebole's raflals, there Was one named Keltic, (a name ftiU common in the barony,) equally renowned for the fame kind of dangerous prc-emiii<» ence. The trooper and he had heard of each other ; and each was defirous to try the ftrength of the other. They had Ho opportunity while the King was there ; but they agreed to itieet early on a Monday morning, foon after, on the fame fpot where the King had dined. It is not fald what kind €li liquor they made ufe of; but they drank it from what are here called quaffs, a fmall wooden veflel, which holds about half an Englifli pint. They continued to drink^ till tlie Wednefday evening, when the trooper fell from his feat, feemingly afleep. Keltie, took another quaff, after Ae fall of his friend, to (how that he was the conqueror ; and this gave rife to a proverb, well known over all this country, iKeltie^s Mends ; and nothing is more common, at thia very day, when one refufes to take his glafs, than to be threatened with, Keltie^s Mends. Keltie dropped from his feat after- wards, and fell alleep. But when he awakened^ he found his companion dead. He was buried in the fame place, and as it is near a fmall pool of water, it ftill letains the name of ^' the Trooper's Dubb.** The anecdote (hould ferve as a warning againft the criminal and prcpofteroas folly which occafioned I

it. Some of the people are ilill credulous enough to imagine, that the trooper is dill feen fometimes fitting on the fpot ; and in the night, would rather go a mile out of thdr way, than pafs by the Trooper's Dubb. The road leading by this j)lace, ftill retains the name of the X^ourt Gate, or Court ff^a^» Among the antiquities of the parifhes, may alfo be enu- merated an anvil ftock, that was the property of a black*

fmitb

0/ F^awuy and TuiUehoU. 475

fblth in the Crook of J)ovan before the Reformation* At that<timei a Roman Catholic prieft officiated inthepatiflit ^ who was a great declaimer againft the marriage of the clergy. The blackfmithf had notwithftanding reafon to fufpe£k that he was too familiar with his wife; and pre« tending to go on a journey, he returned unexpe£):edly, and found the prieft and his wife together* Thisfon of Vulcan, however^ did not, like his predeceilbr in the cafe of Mars and VenoSf prepare a net to link them together \ but he ham* mered out a moft fubftantial ftaple, and indignantly dragging the prieft to the anvil ftock, he nailed him to it by means of ibe ftaple, and by that part of his. body which had done thd lenifchief. He then laid down a knife, and fetting fire to* the imith's (hop, gaye the prieft his choice, either ^^ to cut or to ^' bum*" The prieft hefitatedj till the flames approached liim I but was at laft obliged to have recourfe to the knife. He never afterwards made his appearance in the parifh ; and Qo other Roman Catholic prieft was permitted to fucceed bim i the anvil ftock» has therefore the name of " the Refor- ^* matioB Clogg ;'' and the ftory is known by the title of *^ cut *^ or bum**' The original clogg itfelf hsnbeen in the pof« ieffion of the laft 5 minifters of the parifh ; and is now in the pofleflion/of the writer of this account. This afiair is faid to have happened during the time that Mary Queen of Scots was confined a prifoner in the caftle of Lochleven* under the care of William Douglaii to whom it belonged. .

Natural Curioftties *'^ln working the lime rock, the wotk« men fometimes meet with pieces of it xefembling the jfhells of. fea-fifli. lately, there was a piece found, exaAly fi. miiar to a common oAavo bible bound in white vellum. ^oth from the appearance of leaves^ uncut, and from its cover^ every perfon who has feen it^ takes it for a book.

sOa ' The

47<5 StatiJlUdJ Jec&unt •

The moft ftriking curiofitiosi however, are the DeviPs Mik|j| the Rumbling Bridge, and the Caldroa Linn en the riv4r Povan. '"

I. The Devil's Miln. The Devirs miln lies higheft up the river, and about an Engliih mile below the pre&nt church of FofTaway. It is formed by the water falling over a fmall caf- cade, into a cavity made in the rock below. Here is heard all that noife, peculiar to a great body of water falling upon a naiJn-wheel, and driving it round with great velocity and force. In the cavity below, the water is continually toiTed round Hvith great violence, and conftantly beating on the fides o£ the rock. From this it happens that a noife fimilar to tho found made by a going miln, is di(lin£):ly heard, when the water has force enough^ by its quautity, to beat the rock violently \ and \frhcn it is not fo high, as to cover the cavitf altogether. As this miln, according to the country phrafe^ goes Sunday and Saturday, it is from this circumftance, cal« led the Devil's miln. Near this, and on the Muckart £de o£ the river, is fomething refembling a coal, level, running inta the rock \ whicl^s called the Pigeons cave. This, as the • accefs to it is diincult, has not been examined with fo much* accuracy, as to afce^tain ^yheth^r it has been formed by na* lure, or by art.

%. The Rumbling Bridge. About350 yards below the Devil^ miln, ftands the Rumbling bridge. It is To called, from the' rumbling noife which the water makes } pu(hing along from cafcade to cafcade, gn the channel below* The fpan of the arch of this bridge, is 22 feet } its breadth 1 1, and its height &6» Its height, however, from the furface of the water, varksaccord* ing to the fwelling of the riyer, when the n^eafuremeat is tak« ea. When one fees (he bridge itfelf, th^ high rocks ail in viewj the natural wood with which in feme places they are covered, the water running aloog. from o^e faU to anotjier below, ia • .., fo&iQ

of Toffaway and TuJIieboU. 477

.fome places by the jutting out of the rocks, concealed from the eye> and in others, appearing again; when he fees it here calm and fmooth, there all covered with foam, and in Other places broken, boiling, and tumultuous, and remarks the multitude of fowls which are conllantly flying about^ he will readily acknowledge, that the whole forms a very diver- lified, beautiful, and romantic fcene ; which well deferves to be defcribed, and to attrad the attention of travellers.

3. Caldron Linn. A mile farther down the river, is found the Caldron Linn* There are here two falls of water. The uppermoft fall is 34 feet in height; but is not perpendi* Cvlar. The other is 44 feet in height, and is almoft com- pletely perpendicular. The two falls are diftant from each Other, 28 yards. The diftance between the rocks, on each fMe of the river, is not every where the fame ; but incredfes' from 12 to 22 feet, and is leaft at the higheft fall. Here' too' are intervening rocks ; and there is one like a pillar in the ilkidft of the water, horizontal on the top, by which many perfons have pafled from the one fide to the other. In the fpace between the two falls, are 3 round cavities which the water has formed in the rock, which have the appearance of latge caldrons, or boiling veiTels, from which the name is derived. In the firft, there is the perpetual agitation of boil- ing water, the fecond is always covered with foam, and the third is confiantly calm and placid. The caldrons are of dif- ' ferent dimenfions 1 and the third which is the largeft, may be perhaps 22 feet in diameter. When the river is low, they communicate with each other, not by the water running over their mouths; but by apertures made, by the force of the- waters in the courfe of time through the rocks which feparate them, at perhaps the middle depth of the caldron. In confequence of this, the third caldron, which commitni* cates with the gteat fail| has formed an opening for itfdlf^

out

4(yt Siattftkal Accomt '

out of which the ivhoie water, when the river is not fwettad^ ru(be6 out to the great fall^ with great rtolenccj and with % very ftriking efieA. At thb caldron, which indeed has aot been meafttred, ftill appears to be very deep, the apertuvp oannot reach to the bottom. The apertine refembles a door^ or a large window, having a piece of the rock like a lintel ftitt aemaining on the top* When the whole water makea its way through this opening, the height of the fall is lefiened perhaps 7 or 8 feet. To a perfon looking up from the fide of the pool below, as no part of the river above is to be feeUf it has the appearance of a great body of water, horn fome prc^ digious fpring, gufhtng out of the rock. When die rifcr is large, the water runs over the lintel, as. it formerly did at all ttmeSy and then the height of the fall is as gveat as it ever was. Some months ago, a part of the rock pn fhe.ibuth fide of die river, adjoining the fall, was broken off, and fell into die pool bdow. Yet this has made litde alteradon on the fall V but the force of the water, will no doubt^ in proceia.Qf time, make a'' great change on it* The caldrons. may be equally well feen on both fides of the river ; h«t the great fall is feen to moft advantage, from the foutb. There is an. acceis fx> the fide of the pool below, where the view of like faH is moft complete. Between i and a o'clock in the aft^moon, is the moft proper time to view it. The fun then flunea di- re£Uy in front of the fall \ and as theve is a gentle vapour continually arifing firom the pool, into which the water falls, it exhibits to the eye, all the diflFerent colours of the rainbow . which, by die perpetual agitation of the wind, appear and difappear, fi) as to form the jnoft ftriking and pi&urefqae feene.

iZivfTf.-— -.There are various ftreams of water running dirough both ^ariihes \ but the only river conne£ked with

either^

•ff^^B^may and TidUebole. I179

c^thefy 19 tlie Dovan* It iiic8 m the parifli of ATv^y and di« ^eAiflg its coutffe eaftward, fepatates the pariih of TiHicoul- try from BlacJcford ; runs durough the middle of Glendovan | h the line of maxdh betweeen Mockart and the northern branch of Foflaway ; touches at the Tillage of the Crook of t)or9n, (fo called, becaufe there it turns,) and taking its coot ft in a foudi-weft diredion, again feparales Muckart from the fbuthern branch of Foflaway ; pafies by Dollar, Tillicoultry, iind AIra ; and empties itfelf into the river Forth, nearly op* ipofite to its fonrce, and only about 6 Englifh miles diftant from It. Taking from its fource to the Crook of Donn, a ftraight line, and another ftratght line to where it falls into the Forth, they form an angle of about 224 degrees* It tons a courfe, including its windings, of about 40 miles. The Doran affi>rds excellent trout, and dietrouts are all of what are called the bum, or mofs kind. * No falmon, or ialfflon trout, can pafs the Caldron-linn. There are, how- Wer, feme Lochleven trout caught in the Doran, which are eafily diftinguiflied from the bum trout, being of a ijuite difie* tent kind. Hits to a ftranger would appear xnezpKcable, yet it is eafy to account for it A little above the Crook, there is ^ fmalftream of water which fifdlsjinto Ae Doran« Part of ihfs ftream is carried off to fupply the village with water. What Is taken off runs towards Kintofs y and when it is flooded, the ' troots, in the fpawning f6afbn come up, get into die larger ilream, and firom thence into the Doran, from whence it xs fuppofed few return. When the rircr is greatly flooded, the trouts are found to fly firom the current of the flteim, to the calm and^ftin water at the fides. Then it is that many people, with fmall hand nets, drag the calm pools, and catch them in prodigious numbers. This greatly hurts the fifliing with the rod.

4^0 Statiftical Auounl

BnJges.'^Tht bridges on the DoTan» conne&ed with Po<^ iaway, are 5. The Vicars bridgCy leading frofb the norths to the coal at ^lalringonei faid to be built by a Vicar, who once lived 74. Dollar, but in what year, is uncertain. It wag widened 6 feet, about 30 years ago. Higher up the river {lands the Rumbling bridge, built about the year l^^'i• Th^ next is the bridge at the prefent church of Fofiaway, on tha high road from Stirling to Elinrofs. It was built in the year 1 767* At a confiderabletdiilance farther up the river, ftand other two bridges, diflant from each other, about an EngliOi mile. The £rft, is called Old FoiTiway bridge, becaufc it is built near where Old FcfTaway church (lood. The other is called St Serfs bridge, and it forms a communicatioa between the parifh of Dunning, and the coal at Blairingone. Both thefe bridges were built as they prefently ftand^ withia .the Uft 60 years*

jf Flood on the Dovan.^^Thc greateft flood which has been obferved on the Dovan for many years, was in the month of Sept. 1 785. The rain began about 4 o'clock in the mornings About Q, the river was increafing with great rapidity. At lOt it had covered che marks taken notice of in a large flood* This led to a clofer obfervation. The river fwelled to at leaft 18 inches perpendicular, above the height to which it had been known to rife for many years. Though the rain, where thefe obfervations were made, continued as violent as erei^ the river began to decreafe, nearly in the fame proportion, ia which it had been increafing a little before. At firft, thift appeared quite inexplicable ; but the caufe was foon known. The rain had abated on the hills, from whence the dreams defcend, which fupply the river ; and all the water that fell oa the low ground, had no influence to keep up the river at its former height. At the Rumbling bridge, the river was run- t ning

^tfTqffhway and TtdUebole. 4^ i

ning witli prodigious rapidity and force, and had covered all the cafcades, which are obfervable when at its ordinary fizc. It carried along With it great quantities of grain from the fields, many trees, and federal (beep. The river, from a little ftbove the DetiPs miln to the Rumbling bridge, is hemmed in by rocks on each fide, not diltant, where fartheft from each other, more than 16 feet ; and in fome places fo near, that it may be ftepped orer. The Caldron Linn appeared in its higheft dignity. As the water filled almoft the whole fpace between the two falls, up to the fummit of the f ocks, the uppermoft fall was fcarcely difcemible ; but the other appear- ed in all its majefty. The immenfe body of water, the height which the fall then had, and the agitation which it produc* ed in the pool below, formed a mod ftriking and even an awful fcene ; and Teemed to make the rock quake at the dif- tance of 30 yards. When looking up from the fide of the pool bdow, to the immenfe body of water ruOiing over the f{lU, it b fmpoffii)ie to defcribe its dignity, and the amazing • wUriing and boiling of the pool* It was obferred about z o'olodc ; the fun (bone bright, and there was a fre& gale of wiU. The gentle vapour which appears at all times, had at thb time iilcreafed like a thin cloud \ and afcended fully 200 feet above the tops of the rocks. The rainbow was feen in iA\ perf edion ; and the ckmd being Gantismally to£d by tihe wind, refembled the Aurora Bovealis*

The Dovan, in oomparifon with other rivers, is exceedingly fmalU but at this time, it was a confiderable river indeed. By anobfervation made near the prefent manfe of Foflaway, where it is confined by roeks almoil perpendicular, to a channel of 50 feet wide, and mumng on a declivity of <$ feet in 150, it was found to exceed its ofual fize about cz feet in perpends Cttlar height.

Vol. XVIII. 3 P NUMBER

48as Statyiical Account

NUMBER XVIIL PARISH OF TRINITY CASK.

(county of PERTH.)

By a Friend i$ Statiftical Enquiries* S

Situation^ isfd^

nn RINITT GASK, or Tarnty, as it is vulgarly pnmoa»i' -'* ced} occupies a pleafant fituation in Stratbearn» an cs/m tenfive and beautiful diftriA of Perth- (hire. / It ftretchcs flrom caft Co wefty along both fides of the river Eanii for feveral miles. The bank on the north rifeswith a gentle il«pcft (as the word Ga/k^ in the original Gaelic, is faid to denoti^ StaU Hift* ofScotlandy Vol. i. p. 479)9 and commands a wide and divcrfi/ied profpe£i. The ground, to the fouth of this bank, is chiefly level, and feems to have been the alluvion of the river; which, like the Forth below Stirhng, takes through this plain a very winding courCr, and frequently mskes con- fiderable encroachments on its banks.

. Heritoru'^Tht principal heritors of tha parifli, are His Gf ace the Duke of Atholi ; the Earl of Kinnoul ; Sir Thomas MoncrieflF, Bart* General Drummond of Macfaany ; General

Grahan^

of Trimty Gajk. 483

Graham of Balgowan ; Thomas HepburOi Efq. Onlj two of the heritors refide in the parifli*

P^«Ai/^.— This parifliy according to the report made to DrWebfterin 1755^ contained 913 inhabitants. The pre- fent number is 795. The decreafe from 1755 to 17959 is ii8.

Church* Stipend. — ^This parifh b fituated in the county of Perth, the prefcytcry of Auchterafdcr, and fynod of Perth and Stirling. It conHfts of the united pariflies of Kinkel and Wefter Ga(k ; and, as report fays, contained a third place of worfliip, called Chapcl-hill. The union of the three, into one parifh, is faid to have given rife to the prefent name of Trinity Gafk. The kirk at ChapeUhill has long fince fallen into ruins. From the rubbifli large (lones, iome with croffes, &G. cut upon them, have been occaGonally dug up. The sdjoiniag burying ground is converted mto a cottage*garden, in which human bones are fometimes found. Divine worfhip has till of late been performed in the church of Kinkel ; where in fummer, the miniftcr officiated every fourth fabbath. The building having fallen into difrcpair, is now abandoned as 9 place of worihip ; which was the more readily fubmitted to, as the minifter was not fuppofed to be under any obligation to continue the former praifirce. The church and manfe at Tri* siity Gaik were rebuilt about 20 years ago, and are in good repair. Mr James Brough, the prefent incumbent, was or- dained minifter here in 1794* The ftipend conlifts of 36 bolls of oat-meal, 24 bolls of bear, and L. 48 fter. in money. A procefs of augmentation is at prefent depending ; and the funds for obtaining it are very fufficient. The glebe, con* fifting of the dd glebe of Wefler Gafk, united to a piece of land| exchanged two years ago for the glebe at ELinkel,

2 P 2 contaioa

484 Staiijiicnl Account

contains 16 acres of good land. The Ear] of Kinnoul is patroik One of the firft: ere£led Seceding Meeting Houfes, belonging to the Antiburgher Synod in Scotland, is at Kinkel ; and is regularly attended by a numerous congregation^ cdlefled from this pari(h and the neighbourhood.

School. Po^.— The parochial fchoolmafter has a falary of L« 100 Scots, (L. 8:6:8 fter.) with a free houfe and garden. The poor on the pari(h lift are 4 ; beCdes a few indigent families, who, on particular occaGons, receive a little aflift- ance. The funds for their fuppOf t are chiefly made up of coUeAions at the church, and the intereft of L* roo fterling^ iared by the feffion in times of plenty. The colleflions at an average amount to about 4s weekly. None of the poor are permitted to beg.

Agriculture and Manufa^ures.'^ Although almoft the whole parifli is arable, upwards of 1000 acres of land, whidi might be eafily improved, are allowed to remain in a ftate of nature. This muiriOi land, which lies away from the river in the higher part of the pariih, yields but a fcanty'crop of coarfe grafs to the cows that are paftured upon it, for a rent of from is to 5s per Scotch acre. It feeras to accord with the prefent ftate of human nature, that men, whether viewed as individuals, or conneAed in fociety, ihould gra^ with avidity at foreign treafure9; whife they leave unimprov« ed the certain advantages which are within thebr own power. Arable farms, generally confift of a plough*gate of land, con- taining about 50 or 60 acres. The ufe of lime and marie has greatly improved the fyflem'of agriculture. Grafles are now Town with fuccefs ; and turnips have lately been culti- vated with profit. Clover and potatoes in general do well i and are highly advantageous to the farmer. A confiderabk I part

^ Trinity Gajk. 485

psrt of the foiI> being a mixture of clay and loam» is weU calculated for producing wheats which, in fmall quantities^ is now fown> and it is hoped will foon be in more general ufe* Lint in fome places grows very well ; and premiums for cultivating it have been obtained in the parifh. Mr Thomas Stalker has diis year (i795}> prefenred lint-feed, from lint produced upon an acre and a half on the banks of the Earn ; which, from its fituation, feems to have been de^ pofited by the river. The foil is rather heavy, and of a blackifh colour. Mr Stalker thinks that the feed will equal in quality any that is imported into Scotland. The parifh con- tains, hefides about 40 acres of natural wood, chiefly oak, a good many thriving plantations, which beautify and ilielter the country* As many horfes are reared in the parifh as preclude the neceffity of any foreign fupply. The breed of late is greatly improved. The cows are rather fmall, aud are preferred to the larger kinds, as being more adapted to the foil, as well as the fize of the farms. But were the lands indofed, and more attention paid to the dairy, a larger breed of milk-cows than the prefent would probably be found to be more profitable. From 6 to 12 milk cows are kept on each farm of a plough-gate of land. The milk is made into butter, and fkimmed-milk cheefe, chiefly for the market in Perth. Sheep are almoft wholly baniftied from the parifti ; and 9 few hogs are reared for home confumption. The parifh is fupplied with four meal and two lint-milns. The aflriflions by thirlage, to fome of thcfe mills, were till of late very op* preffive ; but in moft places a remedy is found, by the propri* etorsof land, who relieve their tenants from the burden ; or by the tenants themfelves who purchafe the right to the multures, and . thereby have the liberty of grinding their corns where they pleafe. The grain produced in the parifh Is greatly mor^ than fuflicient for the confumption of the inhabitants.

Manufactures

486 StatiJIicaJ Account

Manufaflures have fcarcely, if at til, found their way intt this parifli % it contains, howeveri as many tradcfnien as are rectflary, in ordinary cafes, for the cuftomary work of the

inhabitants.

Fl/bwgs. — ^Thc river Earn, the only 'water of confeqacnce in this neighbourhood, abounds with excellent falmon and trout. The falmon are caught in confiderable abundance, chitfly in two cruives, which are placed in the river^ and for ihe ufe of which a yearly rent is paid.

Roads and Bridges, — ^The roads in general arc extremely bad ; and, in fome places, almoft impaflible in wet weather. The communication over the Earn was formerly by meant of a ferry, which, on many occaGons, was very dangerous; hut an excellent (lone-bridge was lately built near KinkeL This, and the other bridges in the diftrid, being built by a voluntary fubfcription, are not burthened with any pontage*

^/i//ytti/iV/.— The only piece of antiquity worth notice, it t part of the Roman road, or caufeway, that runs from Stor- mont to the celebrated camp at Ardoch. This road, for irore than a mile, in a ftraight line, occupies the higheft: ground in the parifh. It is very complete, and, with little or no repair, ferves for a public road. The (tones of which it is made are pretty large} and are laid in good order. It is commonly dry« even in the wetteft fcafon of the year. The road, however, of which it makes a part, is but little frequented.

Mifcellatieous Ohfervaihfis.-^Tvco fmall public houfes, one at Trinity Gaik, and the other at Kinkel, are (bund to be ne-» cciTary for retailing ale and whiiky, for the accommodation of

the

^f Trinity Qajtt. 487

the neigfabourhood. They are produftlve of no bad confe- quences.

The moft noted well in the p^lrifli is at Trinity Galk. It is remarkable for the purity and iightnefs of \t% water ; the fpring 18 copious and perennials Superftition^ aided by the interef- ted artifices of popiih priefts, raifed, in times of ignorance and bigotryi this well to no fmall degree of celebrity. It was af* fioned, that every perfon who was baptized with the water of this wellf would never be fcized with the plague. In thofe times, few ventured to diibelieve what was aflcrted bf the Monkifh Clergy ; and fewer were polTefled of fortitude to Qppofe the fyftem of influencei which the E(labli(bed Church had obtained ? But the extraordinary virtue of Trinity Gafk well has periihed with ,the downfal of fuperftitioa, and the introduAion of a free and rational enquiry into nature and re* ligion.

One great difadvantage, under which the inhabitants oixha% pari(h labourj is their diftance from fuel. ♦ The works from which cQat is generally procured, are diftant about ao miles, and the roads far from being good. Half the fummer is fpent in bringing home as much coal as is neceflary for the winter's (upplyr P^ata are procured from the mofs of the higher grounds, but not without great labour and wade of time. And it i£|. obvious, that the time and labour which the neceflary pro« vifion of fuel requires, muft be equally unfavourable to the induftry of the mechanic and of the farmer. Thefe di£id«« vantages, however, are common to many places in the neigh* bourhood.

The low grounds through which the Earn takes its iju^n-i tine courfe, are expofcd to frequent inundations from the river. O.wing to this cifcumftanee, the land cannot with fafety be plowed till late in fpriog; and even then, a fudden fail of raiit

upon

I

498 Statijlkal Account

upon the neighbouring heights fwells the riveri and'cames awtjr the foil the whole depth of the farrow, and that frequendy after the feed is fown. TIte land being thus deprited of its fer- tilizing foil| and not infrequently corered with land andgraFel, remains a long time in a date of barrennefs. The ' harveft floods are fometimes alarming and ruinous to the farmer. His fields of com are often entirely deftroyed, and the grain carried down by the ftream* His iiiin4 is kept in conftant alamii during the rainy fealbn $ and the fab- bath is often fpent in remoting the crop to a place fecure froai the reach of the water. Upon lands thus fituatedj few itn- .

prorements in agriculture can be carried on* Inclofuret> '

whether by done dykes, hedges, or ditches, are rendered n(c- lefs by the floods from the riyer ; the dykes are levelled with the ground ; the hedges torn up by the roots ; and the ditches filled up with fand and gravel. Proper drains in fuch fitua« tions are impracticable ; and the manure laid upon the land }s often rendered ufclefs, or wholly fwept away. TbecomnKNi courfe of cropping on the extenfive traft of land^ which is thus expofed, is 3 years in white crops facceffively ; and 3 years, often 4, in lee. Much land is alfo wholly loft, by the frequency with which the river changes its courfe. No fewer tfian 1 2 acres in one farm, have wi|hin a few years been carried away from the banks, by the force of the water. The only remedy for tbefe evils, is to ftraighten the courfe of the water, and to fecure it by proper embankments.

NUMBER

of Perth. 489

NUMBER XIX. PARISHOF PERTH.

(CJOUNTY OF PERTH, — PRESBYTERY OF PERTH, SY- NOD OF PERTH AND STIRLING, COMMISSARIOT

OF ST. ANDREWS.)

By the Rev. Mr James Scqtt,

J I. Natne of the Toivn^

THE towfi of Perth gives its name, not only to the parifli, but alfo to the cxtenGve county in which it is fituated.

The late Sir David Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, (Annals of Scotland, Vol. 11. p. 341O fays, ** The derivation of the « word Penh, ufed in vol. 1. p. 138, ought to be omitted. •* I have been favoured with different interpretations of the <« word. Not knowing which to chufe, I judge it bed to « omit them all."

In this Statiftical Account, however, fome explanation of the name may be expe£ted.

The word Perth, is pronounced by the Highlanders, Pcirt or Peart. According to this pronunciation, the word is faid by fome perfons to mean a finifhed labour, or complete piece of work ; and to refer to the building of the town, or to the -fpTti6cations with which it w^s originally furrounded. Vol. XVIII. 3 Q_ But

49io StatiJHcal Account

But Fordun, (vol. ii. p. 99.) when fpcaking of a remark- able fiege which the town fuftained from the Norwegians, in the time of the Pi£ls^ during which the Scots joined with the Pi£^s in repelling the enemy, fays, ** I have found, in *^ fome old writs, that the tpwn of St Johi^ now called *' Perth, was anciently called Bercha.'*

The contracted pronunciations of Bertha, are Berth and Bert ; and, as the letters B and P were ufed indifcriminatei j in the Gaelic language, the Highlanders might eaGIy change the name into Perth or Pert.

Bertha, in the German language, Ggnifies celebrity, fplen- dor, or what is defervedly illuftrious, the fame as Eudoxia in the GreeL Thofe pcrfons who were called Eudocia by thp Greeks, were by the Germans called Bertha. If the Pids therefore, in whofe territory the town was, were originally Goths or Germans, there would then be no neceifity of feek- ing for a Celtic derivation of the word Perth*

) ^. Origin and Roman Name of the Town,

There were towns in Britain prior to the time of the So- man invafipn. But it may be prefumed, from the rude ftatd of the arts, and the wandering manner of life of the inhabitants, that they fcarcdy defcrvcd to be called by thu name*

That particttUr tribe of the FlAs which poffeflcd, witk fome other fmall territories, the county of Fife, and that portion of the (M>unty of Perth which lies on the fouth of the Tay, were called the HoreftiL

Whether, before the Romans invaded the country, there were any conftant or occaGonal aflbmblage of the people, ia dwellings crcftcd for them, where Perth now ftands, cannojt perhaps at this diftance of time be determined with any cer*

tainty.

of Perth. 45t

tainty. We may therefore pafs on to the generally received opinion which is, that the town was regularly built; and fortified at the command of Agricola, while he wad profe- Cuting his conquefts on the north fide of the Forth.

Richard of Cirenceftcr, the difcovcry of whoft bdok has thrown great light on the antiquities of Scotland, when fpeaking of the Horeftii, fays, *• Their towns were Alauna, " Lindum, and ViQoria ; the laft of which Uras more illuC- *« trious than the reft, not only in name, but alfo in reality. •' It was built by Agricoia, at the river Tay, lo miles from ** the exit of that rircr into the fca.'* (Rich. Itinerary, Hbt i. c. 6.)

This is an eiaA defcription of the fituation of the toWn b( l^erth. The diftance to Dundee, which is commonly confi- dered as marking the etit of the river, is 20 £ngli(h miles. It is probable, however, that Richard meant Scots or com- puted miles, as he had his report from fome Monks of his order, who had been in Scotland in the 13th century, and had there examined the remains of Roman antiquities. He night therefore fpeak, according to the manner of the coun^i try, of the diftance of Perth from what may be called the real exit of the river. He evidently means Perth, ahd Mr Whi* taker, in )>is hiftory of Manchefter, applies the name accor- dingly. Perth, or Vi£loria, is reckoned to have been one o£ the Latin towns, on which ample privileges were always con- ferred.

Mr Henry Adamfon, a young man of the clerical profef- fion, Son of James Adamfon, Frovoft of Perth, and brother of Dr John Adamfon, Principal of the College of Edinburgh, Wrote his metrical hiftory of Perth about the year i6ao, which was publifticd, after his death, in the year 1638.

The name which Mr Adamfon gave to his book, was, ** |ha Mufes Threnodie." But, according to the fafhion of

3 Qji the

4gi Statijlkal ^coutu

|he times, when the book was to be publiihedy it received die fantaftical name of '^ Gall's Gabions."

It is written in a very handfome and (pirited manner; and William Drummond of Hawthorndean, the celebrated Scot- tlfli poet of thofe timesj wrote a complimentary letter to Mr Adamfon, defiring him to publifb his work, and congratulat* ing the town of Perth on having given birih to a citizen, *' fo eminent in love to her, and fo dear to the Mufes.**

Mr Drummond's letter was dated July I2th, 1637. Bat it did not arrive, if it arrived at all, at Perth, till after Mr Adamfon's deathy who died in May 1637.

I have thought it neceflary to mention thefe few particu- lars concerning Mr Henry Adamfon, as introdudory to die ttfe to be made of his hiftory ; and more efpecially, aS| I find the brevity required in this Statiftical Account, will not permit me to take any farther notice of him, or of any other remarkable perfons, natives of the town of Penh, unlefs fome more important articles were to be negleded.

The purport of what he fays of the origin of Perth, with fome additional circumftances, from Tacitus and Forduh, is as follows^

" Cnaeus Julius Agricola, in the third year after Vefpafian, ** who had fent him to be governor in Britain, viz* about the ^* year of the Chriftian ^ra 79, led a numerous army, round ** by the pafs of Stirling, into the country on the north fide of •* the Forth. New nations or tribes were difcovered, which •< the Romans wafted all the way to the Tay. The people *< ficd before them \ fo that Agricola, in his progrefs, had " leifure to ered many forts or caftles.

^< He was nearly 5 years eftabli(hing the Roman power on ** the north of the Forth, till he was recalled by Doroitian. *' At firft, the natives, in the winter^ dcmoUihed thefummer

of Perth. 493.

*' camps or fortrefles* But thefe, as well as the winter rcfi* ^' dencesy were at laft rendered impregnable.

<^ When Agricola and his army fird faw the river Tay, and ** the adjacent plain on which Perth is now fituatedy they cried " out with one confent, JScc^ Tiber i Ecu Campus Martins t ^^ Behold the Tiber ! Behold the field of Mara I comparing ** what they faw, to their own river, and to the extenfive '^ plain in the neighbourhood of Rome. The Italians, many *' ages after, were in ufe to give to the Tay, the name of "New Tiber; and Fordun gave the name of Tybcr-morc, ^^ to an extenfive moor which lies weft from the town of •* Perth.

*^ As the field at Rome was by the early Romans confecrat- *' ed to Mars, fo their defcendants found, in the field adjoin- •« ing the Tay, an old temple, which the Britilh or Wellh " writers fay, was built many ages before, by one of the '^ Britifti kings, and dedicated to Mars. The Romans per- " formed worOiip there to that heathen deity, in hopes of << their expedition's being favoured in the new country into *' which they were come.

^^ Agricola pitched his camp in the middle of that fidd^ '* on the fpot where Perth ftands. He propofed to make it a '* winter camp ; and afterwards built what he intended (hould '* be a colonial town. He fortified it with walls, and with a '* ftrong caitle, and fupplied the ditches with water by an « aqueduft from the Almond.

*^ Alfo, with much labour to his foldiers, and probably to <* the poor natives^ a large wooden bridge was coiiilrufled •* over the river at Perth."

The particulars which Mr Adamfon relates were not of his own invention. They were agreeable to the current tradition* And he, or the fpcaker whom he introduces, fays, they were written in an old mauufcript ; but were ilipt, as many other

things

494 Statijtical Aceouta

things were, Out of the records which were ftiorerecoit (Mufes Threnodie, Mufe itu v. 220 — 223, 242 — J17.)

It is not my purpofe to affirm that the building of Perth happened exadilj in the manner now related. But the par ticulars are not improbable. The fame or other circumfUn- ces more remarkable, might have occurred.

One of the remaining parts of the north wall of the town, having been taken down a few years ago, a pretty large brafs coin, of ^* Csefar Auguftus Pontifex Maximus," was found in it, which has ever fince been in the pofTcflion of Mr Jamei Ramfay, prefent Provoft of Perth.

The ftory of an old Britifla temple at Perth, is given by HoUnflied. He took it, I prefume, from Galfridus Mono- mutenfis, who was bilhop of St Afaph in 1 1 5 1 ; and whofekit tory is faid to have been a tranflation of what had been written in the Armorican, or Wclfli language, by Tiiliiio, a biihop in Wales, and fon of the Prince of Powis-land* The ftoiyi more particularly, is, that long before the time of our Sanoar, the fon of Regam, fecond daughter of king Lear, goremcd the whole ifland of Britain. He built 3 temples, one to Msrt at Perth in Scotland; another to Mercury 9t Bangor; and a third to Apollo in Cornwal.

An old houfe of a mean (lru£iure, ftood on what was rec* koned the fite of the old temple at Perth. It bore, for ageii the name of " the Kirk, or houfe in the green," and belonged to the family of Mercer of Aldie. The late Colonel Mercer, laird of Aldie, took it down about 8 years ago, and built in its (lead a modern houfe. He caufed a marble done to be placed in the front^of the new houfe, bearing the family arm«i with this infcription added, •• Here ftood the houfe of the «* green."

But a remaining part of the building had been unknown, and was wholly fubtcrraneous. When the mafons bad dug

• , about

of Perth. 495

mbout 3 feet below the level of the ftrcct, they came to 2 flat HTcheSy which they broke through. Under each of thefe arches, was an apartment of 26 feet in length, and 14 in breadth. The thicknefs of the walls, which were of large ftoiies, (Irongly cemented, was 3 feet and a half. Rubbiih bad filled up the apartments to nearly about 3 feet below the roof. There had been in one of them, a door to the north ; and in the other, a door to the fouth. I have not heard ex* afily what the depth of the walls was, only in general, that it was not very great.

About two miles up the river, in the parifli of Redgorton, which is feparated from the parifli of Perth, not only by that part of the water of Almond, whieh runs ftraight to the Tay, but alfo by a part of the parifli of Tibbermuir, which lies along the fouth fide of the Almond ; there feems to have been an out-poft, or Roman ftation, which was probably connefl* cd with the winter camp, or the colonial town of Perth.

On a high ground on the north of the Almond, and which the water has been continuing to undermine for many years, Roman urns and pieces of armour have been difcovered, which may be confidered as indications of a battle having been fought in its neighbourhood, probably not far from the bottom of the Grampian mountains. It is faid alfo, that about a quarter of a mile farther north, in a clear day, when the water is low, the remains of a timber bridge may be fecn in the bottom of the river.

This place, however, which was evidently an appendage of Perth, and where no regular town could have ever been built, has received, in contradiftidion to Perth, fince the days of He£bor Boece, the name of Bertha.

It IS not to be fuppofed that the natives of the country

woul4 affix to the town the Latin name Vifloria. It might

have recalled to their minds, perhaps, fome fignal vidory

3 over

49^ Statijlical Account

over them, which had given occafion to the name. But they might make ufe of a word in their own language, fuch a Bertha, to fignify that the town appeared to them an illuftri- ous piece of work.

Other occafions of the name may be conjeAured. Per- haps the Goddefs ViAoria was by the Romans worfhipped in a particular manner at Perth. Or, perhaps the Vidoriaa legion might have a principal refidence there, either while Agricola was governor, or in the next century, when the Romans were again on the north Cde of the Forth, and con* ftinued there 30 years.

§ 3. The name St. 'Johnflon.

The Pifts, after they were converted to the Chriftian re- ligion, or the Scots, after their king had fuccecded to the Pidifli throne, confecratcd the church and bridge of Perth \^ St John Baptift, whom they feem alfo to have chofen tutelarf faint of the town. In procefs of time many perfons ga?c to the town the name of St Johnfton. But it was never fo called in any of the public writs, nor by the inhabitants in general.

^ 4. ^eals^ or Armorial Bearings of the Town.

A common fcal belonged to the Burgh of Perth, in the reign of Alexander II, and perhaps long before. I have feen no copy of it, and therefore know not whether it was the fame which was afterwards ufed.

Many impreflions of the feal, which was ufcd from about the year 1 400, are appended to charters which belonged to the religious hoqfes at Perth. On the ohverfe, it reprefcntcd the decollation of St John Baptift; Salome (landing by with a platter in her hand, to receive the hcadt On the rcvcrfc, it reprefenred the fame faint infhrined ; and a number of pricfts, or other pcrfoni, kneeling before him* - . The

^

of Perth. 497

The legend iroand both fidesi S. CommunitatU ville SanSH Johannis Bapttfte de Berth. The feal of the communicj of the town of St John Baptift of Berth.

The fuperftitious feal was laid aGde after the reformation of religion. The feal fince ufed, refers to the Roman origin of the town. It bears a golden eagle difplayed, viz. an eagle of the double or imperial kind \ the two heads looking diflR> rent ways. A red cfcutchcon, charged with the Holy Lamb, paflant, carrying the banner of St Andrew within a filver double treflure, furmounts the bread of the eagle. The le- gend," af the bottom, Pro Rege^ Lege^ et Grege. "For the •* King, the Law, and the People.**

Befides the large or common feal, a fmaller one is made ufe of on fome occafions. It bears a fingle eagle, wholly fur- mounted, except the head and wings, with an efcutcheon charged as the other. The furrounding infcription is, £^/- htm/ecretum Burgs de Perti*

§ 5. Situation of the Town.

Though that diftrifi of the county, in which Perth is fi- . Cuated, be commonly defcribed as lying on the fouth fide o£ the Tay ; yet, according to the turn which the river takes, the town may be faid to be fituated on the weft fide. The prin* cipal ftreets from the river run nearly from eaft to weft* Along the oppofite bank, is the town of Bridge-end ; thi church and village of Rinnoul, and a number of villas with gardens, or pleafure grounds, which extend a great way.

The town divides a very fpacious plain, into what are cal- led the north and fouth Inches; each of which' meafures about a mile and a half in circumference. They are called Inches, or Iflands, becaufe they have the Tay on the eaft, and on the other fides, the branches of a canal wjiiich comes

VoL.XVm. 3R from

498 Statijlical Ace$unt

from the Almond, and which brings down a large propor- tion of that fmall river to Perth. *

The ftone banier at the head of the canal, which difidei the water of the Almond, was moft probably an inventiott and work of the Romans. The name which it bean, ii Louis-wark ; which, according to Shaw's Gaelia DifUooafyi means watcr*work.

. There are fome documents of this canal having been in ex- iftence before the time of Malcom Canmore ; who, after the death of Macbeath, afcended the throne in 1057. Without jt, there could have been no fupply of water for the milli which were then at Perth. It ftill fuppHes the mills, and now alfo the wells with water, and formerly filled the ditches when the town was fortified.

The Inches are ufed partly for pafturing cattle belonging to the inhabitants, and partly for walking and other recreations. Alfo, as in the Campus Martius, military men perform their exercife there. Both the Inches are furnifhed with benchei, and the fouth Inch is furrounded by an avenue of trees of dif- ferent kinds. A poet, or a painter, might find full fcope in either of thofe Inches, to indulge his particular genius.

To the weft the profpeft is bounded, at about a mile's diftance, by what is called the Moor. That part of it vhich belongs to Perth, contains a ftone quarry, and is covered with an extenfive wood, which is of great value to the public revenue of the town.

The tide, from the German ocean, flows up the river bj the fouth fide of the Carfc of Cowrie, and reaches, though not fo full, about two miles above Perth. The fpriogor high tides bring (hips, confiderably above 100 tons burtheoi clofe to the ftiores of the town.

Sir Robert Sibbald, who had carefully traced the Roman roads or military ftrccts in this part of the country, dcfcribes

4

o/ Perth. 499

4wlkich led to Perth. (Military Ways, p. 1 6.) One from Aberdour and Newbigging, through the town of Kinrofs to Perth. A fecond, from the North Ferry, through the town of Kinrofs to Perth. A third, from the bridge of Stirling, through the town of Dumblanle, and the Roman camp at Ardoch, to Perth. A fourth, from Abernethy to Perth.

At prefent, there are turnpike roads from all quarters; which, together with the conveniency of the bridge, attTa£l a multitude of travellers.

§6* A Mtfiait U U refiified informer Hi/taries.

He£ior Boethius, or Boece, a native of Dundee, andPrin- cipal of the King's College of old Aberdeen, began, as he himfelf tells us, to write a faiftory of Scotland in 1525, and finifhed it in April, 1526. It was printed at Paris, in 1526, by Jodocus Badius, who complimented him in feme Latin verfes, on his having transferred into his hiftory, in the be- half of the Scots, *' the grace, and milky eloquence of « Livy.'*

Boece's hiftory was held, for a time, in great reputation. It was clofely followed by Buchanan and others* But how he has ampUfied, with fabulous circumftances, many of the events mentioned in Fordun's Chronicle, which was evident- ly his text book, has been illuftrated, with a peculiar degree of fpxrit, by the late Sir David Dalrymple, Lord Hailes, in his ^* Annals of Scotland,'' and in fome of his fmall^r pieces. At prefent, no credit is given to fioece, but in fo far as his aflertions are fupported by better teftimony.

Among his other amplifications of what Fordun has relat- cd, is his tragical fiory of the defolation of Perth by water, in the year 1210, (Lib. 13. Fol. 288. firll edition.)

It would be tedious to quote the whole pafiage, which is a pretty long one. What I find moft fault with in it, is his af-

3 R 2 fertion

500 Statijlical j^^count

fertion, that Perth is not the ancient Bertha, but a new citji built in another place by King William, after Bertha had been deftroyed : though he grant^that the Burrow- priTilege of the old city was transferred to the new.

Fordun wrote his hiftory long before the time of Boccc Major's hiftory was printed in 152 1. Both thefe authors re- late, that an inundation happened at Perth, in 1210. But their relations of it were very different from that which was afterwards given by Bo€ce.

The following account of it comprehends all the particulars mentioned by Fordun and Major.

<' In the year 12 10, and, as fome would have it, aboat die *^ time of the feaft of St Michael, there happened fucb a << great fall of rain, as made the brooks and rivers exceed '* their ufual channels, and carry off" much of the harreft ** crop from the fields*

<* The water of Tay, with the water of Almond, being *< fwelled by the increafing rain, and by a fpring tide from *^ the fea, pafTed through a great part of that town, which of ^' old, was called Bertha, now alfo Perth, in Scotland, b ** eon(equcnce of a mound or rampart giving way, not onlf *« fome houfes, but alfo the large bridge of St John, with aa ** ancient chapel, were overthrown.

« William the King, David Earl of Huntington the King'« <« brother, Alexander the King's Son, Hvith fome of the prin- ♦* cipal nobility, went into a boat, and failed quickly out of ** the town, otherwifc poffibly they might hare pcrifccd. •* Of the burgcfles, and other pcrfons of both fexes, fome ** went into boats, and others fled, for fafcty, to the galleries ** or balconies which were over their houfes."

I have to add to this defcription, that it is full fea or tide at Perth, about 2 hours 18 minutes after the moon's fouthiflg* According to a calculation made by a learned gentleman, the

fprinj

of Perth. 501

fpring tide9» on Monday, 0£h)ber.4th, 121O1 happened at Perth, 18 minutes pad 2 in the morning; and 42 minutes paft 2 in the afternoon. » ' *

It may be fatisfaflory to give the progrefs of the king, as it may be traced in Fordun's hiftory. In fummer 12 10, the king who was then aged and infirm, went to amufe himfelf in the province of Moray, where the place of his birth was. In his return, he fell fick at Kintore, a town in the diftri£t of Garioch, and county of Aberdeen. He did not recover till September 2i(t, and then was fo well, as to come to For- far ; where he remained a little time. From thence he came to Perth, being on his way to Stirling, where he was to hold a parliament, or a great council as Fordun calls it, a fliort ixrhile after Michaelmafs.

The ufual refidence of the king, when at Perth, before the Pominican Monaitery was built, was the old ca(Ue which flood on the north fide of the town, where the ftreet now is % which for more than 400 years has been called by the name of the Caftle Gavel.

It was noticed under a former head, that a large portion of the water of. the Almond is conveyed by the aqueduft to Perth. Even now, fince the ftreets have been coafiderably raifed, when any inundation happens, the water of that fmaller river, as well as the water of the Tay, may be faid to flow in great abundance in fome parts of the town.

It was to guard the cown againfl dangerous inundations^ that the flreets were raifed from time to time. Old (Ireets, well paved, are found 6, 8, or 10 feet below the prefent fur* face. Subterraneous apartments fometimes have been difco- vered. Within thefe 12 years, fome mafons came to what they reckoned to have been a flabie or cow houfe. They could not, with any certainty, difccrn the walls, which pro- bably had been originally of turf or clay. But they found 4

flakes,

5ot Stati/licdl Account

(takes, and alfo a mangeri wholly and very neatly wrought of the twigs of trees ; a kind of work which was much prae- tifed by the ancient Britons.

According to the courfe of natural caufes, the bed of tbe rirer muft alfo have been confiderably raifed. An old rere- rend gentleman, who died a few years ago, in a manufaipt hiftory of his pariihi in which are fome high mounUins, wrote as follows :

** The foil waOied away by the heavy rains is carricJ ** down from the high mountains into the ftreams and ri- •* vers, and by them into the fca j where it fubfides, and '< gaining on the fea has made our Carfes of Gowrici Stir- << ling, and Falkirk. In proof of which^. fome perfonsdig* '^ ging for coals in the Carfe of Falkirk^ found a complete '< boat in the clay, 5 fathoms deep ; and fome other perfons, *^ digging for a drjiw-well in Perth, found at 3 fathoms below «* the level of the bottom of the river Tay, tripods or chairSj •* and fome other pieces of houfehold furniture.**

Walter Goodall, in his edition of Fordun's Scoti-Chronicon, in the year 1 759, thought it neceflary, for the vindication of the antiquities of Perth, to fubjoin to the account which For- dun gives, (vol. i, p. 528.) an annotation from a Latin manu- fcript in the College of Edinburgh* Of a part of which tbe following is a tranflation*

<< The author, viz. Fordun, plaialy relates thefe thingi

** concerning one and the fame city. But Hedor Boccej

*« and George Buchanan his follower, tell a fabulous ftorjr

•* of an ancient city Bertha, which from thenceforth wii

•* entirely dcfcrted ; and of another, and new city, built in

*' another place, by King William, and which was called

•* Perth, from a noble perfon of that name, who contributed

*^ his lands to the building of the town."

o The

$f Perib. , 503

The uintkator thus takes away from Boece's ftory, that part which relates to the change of the name, and (ituation of Perth. Lord Hailes, in his Annals, fub anno 1210, takes away the other exceptionable part, wherein Boece fays^ ati infant fon of the king and many other perfons were drown-

His Lordfliip had been induced to retain what related to the change of Perth. He was pleafed to inform me, that for once, he had put fome confidence in an aflcrtion of Boecct thinking it fcarcely poffible for Boece to miftake, or venture to write what he knew to be falfe| concerning a town only lo miles diftant from the place of his birth. But his Lord- (hip did not advert to the difputes about priority, and other fuch matters \ which, in the time of Boece, 'and near lo* years after, were keenly agitated, ibmetimes not without bloodihed^ between the two very ancient towns of Perth and Dundee.

In fupport of what the annotator or Fordun has obfenredt

I. It is certain that the town had the name of Perth, long before the year i2io. There are many hundreds of charters from about the year 1106, to the year 1210, ftill extant. Any perfon who will take the trouble of looking into thefe charters, will find, that whenever there was occafion to mention the town, its name was always written Perth, or Pertht, or, by way of contra£lion. Pert, the fame as after- wards.

There was no noble perfon who gave his name to Perth; but there were fome perfons who took their firname from that town. It was a mere local firname, as many others were. Thus, in ancient, as well as in modern writs, perfons are mentioned of the following firnames, viz. Stirling, Aber- deen, Abernethy, Dundee, Kirkaldy^ Hawick, Muflelburgh, and many others of the fame kind.

2. It

504 ' Statijiical Account

2. It is certaixi) that tenements and flreets in Perth are defcribcd in charters, prior to the year i2io, the fame as they afterwards were ; which would not have been the cafe> if the old town had been deftroyed.

I crave the indulgence of producing one inftance from two charters which belonged to the Abbey of Scone, and which are contained in the old chartulary, preferred in the Advo- cates Library at Edinburgh. They are not very long. I fhall therefore give tranflations of them, only adding tho original words where the tenements and ftreet are defcribed.

I. ** Charter of William the King, to Hen&t BalD| concerning a land in Perth.

** William, by the Grace of God, King of Scots, to all ^* good men of his whole Realm, Clergy and Laity, Greet* " ing.

** Know all, who are, or (hall be, me to have given, and *' configned, and by this my prefent charter, to have confirm- *< ed, to Henry Bald, that land in my Burgh of Perth, which " James the fon of Simon, and others, my Provoft of Perth, *< have delivered to him according to my prec^t.

" To wit, that land which is in the front of the ftreet, •* which leads from the church of St John Baptift, to the caf- '* tie of Perch, on the eaft fide, oppofite to the houfe of An^ <* drew, the fon of Simon. (lUam fcilicet, qux eft in fronte ** vici illius, qui tendit de Ecclefia San£li Johannis BaptiAi, << ufque ad Caftellum de Pert, ex orientali parte, contra do* " mum Andrea filii Simonis.)

" To be held to him and his heirs, of me and my heirs, in ** fee and heritage, freely, peaceably, fully and honourably. •* fiendering thence yearly to my Chamberlain one poun^of " pepper at the feaft of St Michael.

" Witncffcsi

of Perth. S^J

** Witnefles, Hugh Chancellor ; PhiUp dc Valliams mjr ^^ Chamberlain ; Malcolm Son of Earl Duncan ; William dc ••* Hay; Alexander SheriflF of Stirling; Roger de Mortimer; " Philip de Landin ; at Perth, 14th day of April,**

To afcertain the year in which this charter was granted^ It is neceflary to make the following remarks concerning the "witnefles.

1. Philip de ValHams was made great Chamberlain, about the year 11 80. But he continued in that office about 33 years.

2. Duncan M^Duff, the father of Malcolm Earl of Fife, died in 1 203.

3- William de Hay died before the year 1199.

4. Hugh Roxburgh, Biftiop of Glafgow, was made Chan- cellor of Scotland in 1189, and died. Ides of July, 1199.

The above charter to Henry Bald muft therefore have been granted betwixt the years 1 189, and 1 199.

n. ^« Charter by Henrt Bald Goldfmith, to the Monaf- " tery at Scone.**

'* To all, who ihall fee or hear thefe letters, Henry Bald, ** Goldfmith of Perth, wiflies falvation.

'* Know all of you, me to have given and conGgned, and •** by this my prcfcnt charter, to have confirmed, to God, and -** to the church of the Holy Trinity, and of St Michael of ^' Scone ; and to the abbot and canons fenring God, and to •** fervc him there; in pure amd perpetual alms, my two booths, ** with the gallery placed above them, within the burgh ^i ** Perth ; in that land, which William, of pious memory, ** King of Scots, granted to me for my homage and fervicc. •*• (Du#3 bothas meas» cum folario fuptrpofito, in burgo dc

Vol. XVIU. 3 S ** Pert 4

.$o6 Statijlical Account

"Pert; in terra ilia quam Gulidmus, pi« memorte, Rex *^ Scototum, xnihi dedit pro homagio et fervitio meo.)

" To wit, thcfc two booths which arc in the front of the *' ftrect, which leads from the church of St John Baptift, to- V wards the calUc of Perth, on the caft fide, oppofite to the *• houfc of Andrew, the fon of Simon ; thofe two booth% •* to wit, which are towards the north ; (fcilicct, HIm duas ** bothas, qus funt in fronte vici ilhas, qui tendit de Ecckfia «* Sanfti Johannis Baptifti, vcrfus Caftellom dc Pert, in orr •* cntali parte, contra d(^mum Andrcae filii Simonis ; {fidcfr " cet, illas duas bothas verfu» aquilonemO

«* To be held and retained for ever, freely, peaceably, fnllfj ** and honourably ; rendering thence yearly to the Chm- •* beilain of ow jSovercign Lord, King of Scots, o«e pound ** of pepper at the feaft of St Michael, in lieu of all fcrvkc; ^« and to the Monks of Cupar yearly, one half ftooeof wax, ** at the purification of the Blcfled Mary* in name of alms.

** And that this my donation may be ratified and incontra- ** vertible, I have confirmed this prefcnt page by my fcal* •* And as my feal is not authentic, the common fealof the •* Burgh of Perth is, at my deCre, appended.

•« WitncfTcs, Walter de Newton, and Henry de Ablmitic, "Knights; Galfrid dc Perth, Cleik ol our Loid the King i « Henry his Son; Galfiid Pravoft of Perth; Richard dc •• Leycefter ; John, Son of Lenna ; David Jape ; WiHia« dfe ««nunde; James, Son of James Son of Hutreds William " Sper ; Richard, de Lenna ; and many others**'

The date of this Charter cannot eafcly be afccr taioed by lJ» names of the witnefles- William, King of Scots, is wen- tioned as dead. He died, December 4th 1214, andwa8fu^ ceeded by his Son Alexander 11. who d«ed July 8th i249* It ifi ranked in the chartulary,^ among thofe charters wW^^ Mere granted in the reign of Alexander !!• It could not be J granted

of Perth. 5<57

granted very late in tiiat reign ; bec^ufe Henry Bald, an J Andrew the Son of Simon, who were living before the year i-rpg, were ftill atire. But Henry Bald, who had become a Ooldfmithy or Banker an the tercn anciently implied, feems to have been old, and preparing for death, by giving two o^ his (hops in his tenement in Perth, as alms to the Monaftery*

Every one who compares thcfe two charters, may fee that no alteration of the town had taken place, in the interval be- twixt the year 1 199, and probably the middle of the reign of Alexander II.

3* The original charter which King Wlttiam granted to the town of Perth, dated at Stirling, on the Lord*s day, 'Oclober f^h, and which by the names of the wictiefles, is afcertained to have been in the ytar izto, is ftitl extant.

A tranflation has been circulated among ibme of the Bur*- gefles. It doeanot make the fmalieft menfioh of any change of t4ie name, or of the fituation of the town, which |t cer- ttinfy wouM have done, if any fuch changes had happened. The Kiitg confirms the privileges which the burgh enjoyed in thetimeof hh grandfather King David, who died in 1153^ and adds fome new privileges.

He was hoMing his great council, of Parliament at Stifling, which Fordun fays, was to meet (honly after Michaelmafs in MfO. The public writs were dated, as if grahted on the day of the commencement of the Parliament. The King* that ke might be-enabied to fulfil his treaty v^ith King John of England, craved, and obtained a fubfidy of 16000 marks ; of w^ich very- large fum in thofe days the Barons agreed to pay io,«oo, and the Burrows 6000. On that occaCon, the . Burrow of Pferth feems- to have' been rewarded with a very ciear and particular dtarter of privileges.

4« Still more to confute the ftory of Boecc, there is a char* t«f by Walter, fon of Alan, one of the anceftors of the Lords

3 S a oi

50 i{ Stati/lkal Account

of RuthvCTi, to the abbey of Scone. It appears from the names of fonae of the witneflcs, that it was granted in or be« fore the year 1 200. In this charter^ the (ituation of Perth at the time is marked beyond ail doubt» by a dcfcription of the road which led from Perth to Tibbermuir.

^* I grant^'' fays the above named donor, '* and by this my *' charter, have confirmed to God, and to the church of the •* Holy Trinity, and of St Michael of Scone, and to the ca- *' nons ferving God, and to ferve him tli&re, that whole land '* which Suane the fon of Thone my grandfather, gave to ** them in Tibbcrmorc, according to its marches, viz. From ^ the King's well on the (Ireet which comes from Perth, and *^ leads to the forefaid village." (Scilicet, a fonte Regis, qui eft fuper ftratam qux venit de Pert^ et tendit in viilam pr9&- fa tarn.)

The King's well, is about 2 miles weft from Perth, and in the ftraight road to Tibbermuir. If Perth had then been ii- tuated 2 miles up the river, and on the north of the Almond, the road from it to Tibbermuir would have had a quite dif- ferent diredion, a great way to the north and weft of the King's well.

i regret that I fhould take up fo much room in Sir John Sinclair's Publication*. But juiiice to the town feems to re- quire it. in almoft all hiiiorical writings, or books of travels^ in which Perth is dcfcribcd, boecc's ilury is retailed, or al- luded to 'j fo that no real hiftory of Perth can be given, till that fable be exploded.

It is furprifuig, that during the courfe of 270 years, no perfon feems to have been at fufficieht pains, to examine tvhat Boece had fa id of. Perth, by comparing it with authentic records ; or at leaft, that no perfon who had done fo, was fuch a wana friend to truth and to the antiquities of Perth,

as

of Perth. 509

«8 to make public the particulars of tbe evidence on which the ftory is confuted.

Sir Robert Sibbald was much perplexed, in his treatHe on ** the Roman ports on the fouth fide of che Tay.** He found evidence that the Romans had a ftation, or colonial town at Perth. But he had not taken the opportunities of fully con- futing what Boece had faid. Therefore, he fuppofes, that when Bertha was deftroyed, the new town of Perth was built where the ruins of the old Roman Ration were.

But it would have been better to have had recourfe to his favourite hypothefis of the winter and fummer camps ; and to have fuppofed, that the ftation in the pari(h of Redgorton^ 2 miles above Perth, had been the fumme; camp, and an ap« pendage of the colonial town.

I beg leave juft to obferve, that the kingdom was divided into pariflies, long before the time of King William the Lion. Malcolm Cannlore gave, and afterwards his fucceflbrs con- firmed, to the abbey of Dumfermling, the church and parfo- nage tithes of the town and pariOi of Perth. I have feen the old chartulary of that abbey. The abbot and Monks conti* jaued to receive the tithes, and to regulate what concerned tbe church of Perth ; but they neVcr had any thing to do with the church and tithes of the parifli ofRedgorton.

J 7. ' Bcundaries and Extent of the Parijb*

Excepting a part of the ground weft from the town, where there is an encroachment from the parifli of Tibbcrmuir, the ' pariih of Perth bearsj in its figure, fome refemblance to a femi- circle \ the river of Tay, on the caft, forming the dia- meter. The length, from fouth to north, is about 4 miles \ and the greateft breadthj from eaft to weft, is about 3 miles. The town is fituated nearer to the north, than to the other extremity of the parifli. «.

The

jio Statijlkal Recount

Tbc Tay £ep4ral^ the parUb o# PcKh from the bppofite pariflies of Scone, Kinnoul, and Kinfauns. On tbt northt i\ k bounded by the parUh of Tibbe?fiMii& On the weft, by the pariihcs of TibbeTinuir» and Aberdalgie. On the fouth, by the pariihet of Forteviot, ^nd Dunbaroy. And oa the foiuh caft» by the pariOi of Ryud.

j 8. Heritor/.

The heritors in the country pait of the par Uh, aic the Earl of Kinooul, Lord Gray, Sir Thomaa Moncrief, the heirs of Qliphant of Bachilton, Mr Marfludl of Hillcaimict DrAjmot, Colonel Mark Wood, M. P. Mr AodsrCba of BhcLfnara; the town of Perthf King James VI.'s Hospital of Perth ; Glover Incorporation i Taylor Incorporation j Robertfioa aad com- pany.

The yearly rent of the Iands» in the couotry part of the pa^ riib, is reckoned to amount to about L. 6ooo.

f p. Soil^ and Cultivation^

The foil is partly loam» and paitly clay. The lands being in the neighbourhood of a populous town, and of a port to which great quantities of lime are oonveyed, are generally fo well cultivatedj as to yield rich crops.

$ I o. RtmorkMe VUhges.

T^Q remarkable villages, are the caftle of Balhou(ie» an an- cient feat of the Earls of KinnouL The caftle of PittheYelefs» aa ^nci^nt feat of the Lords of Oliphant* Feuf-hoafe, a feat' belonging to Mr Mavfliall of Hillcairney*

The old caftle which belonged to Rofs of Craigie^ has ]»iag been demoiifbed \ but in the fite of il, ibere is a pleafant aad pretty populous village. The village of Craigie^miU, where a great brewetje is eftabliflied| is alfo populous*

An

of Perth. 5 1 1

Ab ettenCve bleachfield has long been eflabliflied, upon the canal from the Almond, at the Tillage of Tulloch, which has thereby become confiderable. Mnirton of Balhoufie, is the largeft and moft populous of any of the villages.

I forbear to mention the fuburbs, or the ftreets and portions of bnd which tie on the outfide of the ancient line of the walls of the town. It Is difficult in feme tnftances to deter- mine which of them are not, and which of them are really comprehended in the royahy.

The parifli of Perth is fo much occupied, and fo much furrounded through a great eitent of the country, with en- tailed eftates, that the merchants, who hare fucceedcd in trade, are difcouraged from laying out their money in the purchafe of lands. Some of them have been obliged to pur- chafe cftates at a confiderable diftance*

$11. Tradi*

In the eatly times Perth was a place of great trade. Alex- ander Kecham, an £nglifh writer, who read Ie£lures at Paris In 1 1 80, was made Abbot of Exeter in 12 15, and died in 1227, takes notice of Perth in the following diflich, quoted in dmden's Brhanmia.

*' Tranjis ample Tai^ perrura^ per oppiday per Perth. " Regnumjuftentant illius uriii epes"

Thus Englifhed in Bilhop Gibfon's Tranflation of Camden's Book.

** Great Tay through Per thy through tofwas^ through country files* " Perth the VihoU Kingdom with her wealth fufplies**

The literal rerfion is, <• Go on great Tay, through fields, •* through towns, through Perth. The wealth of that city " fttpports the kingdom."

An

5ri Statyiical Account

'An cxtcnfirc commerce was carried on, diyring many ages, between Perth and the Netherlands* The merchants of Perth viGted in their own (hip.% the Hanfe towns. And it is a part of the eurogium conferred on Alexander III* who diedia 1286, that he devifed fuccefsfnl meafures for fecuring the trading (liips of the nation, *^ againft Pirates, and againft •* being d.etainW on flight pretences in any of the foreign ports. ^ In confequence of the care which he cxercifed about the *^ trade of the kingdom, which for fome years, during his <^4ninorit7, had been on the deciine; multitudes of (hips '^ foon came from diverfe regions, loaded with goods of va- '< rious kinds, to be exchanged for the commodities of this " country." (Fordun, vol, ii. p. 130.)

The German merchants, or Flemings as they weri called, very early frequented the port of Perth. And not a few ia- duftrioua Germans^ who wrought in the woollen and linen manufadories, and in ftaining of cloth, feem to hare fixed their abode at Perth^ and to have been received as burgefles*

But King William the Lion, following the example of hii grandfather King David, put the foreign merchants under a great rcftriftion when they came to Perth with their goods, in a charter which he gave to the town, in the year Uio. And, in that fame charter, as a farther difcouragement, he granted to his burgcffcs of Perth, " that they might have •* their own merchant gild, fullers and weavers excepted."

What feems to have been the political reafon of the excep- tion of thefe two trades, viz. the apprchenfion of an inunda- tion of foreigners, has long fince ceafed to exift. The ful- lers have been admitted members of the Guildry. The wea- vers have their own incorporation, and the Lcgiflaturc, fo fa from being apprebenfive of the confequences formerly dread- ed, has of late years, for the encouragement of manufafturcs, allowed that wearers may exercife their trade freely in aH

the

. ^f Perth. 513

the burroughs, though fuch of them as have been already ia- corpora ted| ^re not obliged to receive; any others into their legally conftituted fociety, but on certain conditiop^.

It is neceflary, in this Statiftical Account^ to pafs over the different turns which trade has taken in. Perth, apd to oiler a view of what may be confidered as its prelent ftate. In this^ I have been aHided by others, and (hall infert what I have re«. ceived from them. . ,

The Literary and Antiquarian Society of Perth nominated a number of gentlemen, who are members of the fociety, and who are well acquainted with tra4e, to make a itatement of die articles comprehended in the diftridl of the town, the cuftom-boufe^ and linen ftamp-office, which, may be called the trade of the place. The following report was given in, fubfcribed by Mr John Youngi as Chairman of- the commit- tee, who had taken a great deal of trouble in-coUe^ing the materials. The report was dated June loth, 1794, with a. note added, which bore that the feveral articles were not over-rated ; but rather, if these was any error, under-rated.

" ManufaSlures. — The ftaple manufafture of Perth is linen; and of late, a conGderable quantity of cotton-cloth. There are above 1500 looma employed in the town andfubi^rbs; which manufaAute of linen and cottons, annually, about Ij. ioOjQoo fterling value. Befides this, there is, at leaft L. 120,000 fterling more in value of linen, purchafed in the Perth market by the dealers. Thefe goods are wove in the furrounding country, and all pafs through the hands of the traders in Perth; fo that the total of the linen and cotton xnanufadlures, amounts to about L. 220,000 fterling. The different fabrics, and the general purpoTes to which they are applied, together with .their extent, may he arranged as fpUows:

^QU XYUL a T I. Browa

5 f 4 Statijlieal Account

|# Browii and white fine direaded linens, deno* minated Btkftasy chiefly printed for handker- chiefs ; widi Brkanniasy KftHmgs^ ftc. for export trade, may be eftimated aborej X« i:|o,o«Ot

Thefe articles Perth has been long famed for

f manufadnring.

a. Stout Holland flieetings of Tat tons breaddis ; with i and % HoBand fliirting, and a few long lawns, above, - * I^^oocl

^. Toiir^feurths wide brown and white connfrjr linen, chiefly ufed for faat-linings, buckle I ams, Sec. Brown Hollands, Heffians, pack- iheetings, and other coarfe fabrics, manu- fa£kured in the neighbourhood \ including foldiers fliirtings, with a few coarfe flieet- ings, and Ofnaburgs purchafed. • ao^ooQ

4* Five-feurtfas wide umbrella linens, a,nd linens.

for window blinds, &c. above - fl90^

j« The cotton manufaAufc was rapidly exten(K ing ; but met with a feverc check laft fum« mer, by a redu£lioi\ of the value of good^. nianufa£lured, anj has not yet recovered its former vigour. The fliock did not afle£k the Itoen ihanufa^lures in a fimtlar degree. Shawl-cloths, calicoes and muflins, with a, very few puHcate handkerchiefs, are pro- duced from cotton>yarn) which were efti- mated Within bounds, at JL 8o,ooo (lerKng fer annum; but owing to the late check in the market, iball only be extended to 60^00%

Totad amount of the Knen and cotton* trade, which the coimnittee are confident ■ —

i^ i;nder-rated. - - Zr. 220,000

^f Perth. 515

Prinimg iV'i^f if.— There are 3 printiAf^worWin this neigh* bourhood, fome of th^m tnhf lately eftabiifted) carried o» by eompaoies feeding in Penh) viz.

Rttditeft prints field, in the barony of Huntingumer, ttpoA the property of the Duke of Athole, cairried on b^ Toung^ tlofsy Richardfon, and Caw.

Cromwell- park, eftabliflieci oh the grounds of Thomas Grahamj Efq. of Balgowaft) Member of ParHament for the toUAly of iPerth, ufider the firm of Melifs and Co.

And Tttlfoch prtnf'field In the yicinify, on the property of the Earl of Ktnnoul, carried on by Sandemah JLindfay^ and Co.

Thefe woftta at prefent may be eftimated to do biifinefe, at leaft to the exte«t of L. SojOod fteflmg p^ m$hihl, and Oil Ac increafe, being mdftly ttew eftablilhnfehtB;

The prodtice of thefe vrorks, is (hipped at Perthj chieiiy for the London market* The printers heire ha¥^ a Ml eomr Itiand of the article of Silefia lineii for handtceitrhief priiiiting^ being the ftaple rtanufa^ure of the town and neighbourhood ; they Hkewifc lupply part of the cduntry demandi in England and Scotland*

C0//«^IFVrix.— >At Stanly^ there is a confideraUe cottoii- mtll for fpinnitig twift^ by waier^ the firft thdt was eftsi« btiihed in the neighbourhodd } in which Sir Itichard Ark- Wright interefted htmfelf much in the outfet, Greoi'ge Demp- fter, Efq. and con^p^ny. The proprietors hate lately buiK another mill, which will probably be employed fooft in fpiu- hing Imfnyarn by Watct.

There is alfo a cotton-work for fpinning t^^ift, by W*i tfr, at. Cromwell* park, under the firm of Wright, Mdifs^ and company; and a f mailer one at Stdrmont bleach- fields belonging to Thomas and John Barland* The operation of

3Ta ail

5x6 StatiJHcal Account

all thefe will produce above L. 30,000 fterling annualifi ind ti^ are on the increafe^ being new eftabliflimentt.

There is cotton fpun in the town, atid at Luncarty Ueatcb- field, bj water, foi wefu and otlier purpofes, fach as the manufa£bttre of ftockings, &c: to the extent of L. 5000 fter. fit annum, only lately begun.

Bleachfeldi. — There are 4 public Ueachfields in this neigh- bourhood, that whiten cloth for the country round, and for the manufadiurera in the principal towns of Scotland, aDd^ ven fome of them b^ve quantities of cloth from England to bleach.

AtLuntarty bleachfield, th«y whiten annually on an ave* mge, 600,000 yards ^f linen, j<ls of which may be called lev priced linens, with diaper and tabk linens, from Dumfennlinei Edinburgh, Perth, &c« ; and the other third confifis of fine linens and fliee tings. ' This work is carried on by Sandemaflf .Tumbttil, and Co. and is on the ground of Thomas Grahasi Efq. of Balgowan. The fame company have another Ueachr iield atTuUoch, wheie they whiten about 300,000 yards aa- nually of linen for the public. They are chiefly low priced linens*

At Huntingtower bleach*field, (upon the Dukeof Atbole's eftate,) carried on by Richardfon and Co. Thomas Tooflg ttianager, there are fully 600,000 yards of linen bleached annually, about fds of which, are low priced goods, the other tliird confifts of diaper and fine goods. . At Stormont bleach-field, carried on by Thomas and John Barland, on the ground of the Earl of Mansfield, they whi- ten to the extent of 450,000 yards annually; fdsSilefiaSy Britanniaa, (hirtings, &c. and the other third Diaper and fine goods*

At

of Perth. 517

At both Luncartj and Hantingtower, there is fometimes in the throng of the feafon, above 60 Scots acres at each work oovered with lineoi.

LiMtber Manu/aShtre^'^The roanufa£lure of (hoes and boots is carried on here with great nicety, to the extent of at lead L. 8000 per annum, chiefly (hipped for the London market.

They prepare at the tan-works, from 4 to 5000 hides, and about 500 dozen calf ikips annually ; and do bnfincfs in taa« ' ning to the extent of L. 10,000 fterling yearly.

*

Paper Mills.'-^Thtft are 3 mills for the manufaAure of paper in this noghbourhood, which contain at preienc 6 vatts) but are conftruAed, fo as to ad^it of 9.

Thefe mills produce at prefcnt, from 9 to ic,ooo reams of writing and printing paper ; and from 7 to 8000 blue ; car« tridge^ brown, grey, and other packing papers, ralue above L. 8000 fterling per annum; and increafing in value in pro- portion to the quantity of ^m paper manufadured. This manufaAory, though only lately taken up by Morifon and Lindfay of this town, is allowed to produce uncommonly fine writing paper, which is chiefly fent to the London market.

Lintfeed Oil. — The crufliing of Untfeed into oil, has been a trade in this town and neighbourhood for many years paft } but it is now on the decline : the iirft mill ereded in Scot, land for the above purpofe, was at Huntingtower about a miles from this town.

Salmon FiJbings.-JVh.^ falmon fifhery on the Tay is very extenfive; and the rent confiderably increafed of late. It may be ftated at L. 7000 fterling per annum\ of which the community of Penh draws above L. 1000 fterling of rent.

The

5tS StattJHcal Account

The fifliiog begins on the i itk of Deccmberi and is g^fcB tip on the 26th of Auguft.

The fpring and part of the fummer fi{h go (refii» packed ia ice, to the London market % and when plentiful in warm wea- ther, they arc pickled (in the iGnne m»ket No town in Scot* land is better appointed for intarcourfe widi London than Perth, as erery 4 days, at leaft daring the fifliing feafon, f finack fails, and in general, makes the pafage np within the weeky if the weather be any way CstfouiaUe; and the pa&ge to London has. often been pefformed within 6a hoars; the veflels return with porter, cheefe, groceries, and other goods^ for the confumpt of the town^ and fnpply of an extenfi? e tifiag country. There ase '^ ^efiSda cooftandy employed in the trade. %

MUU* — The mills belonging to the commnnity or burrough of Perth, are rented by Ramfay, Whittel and Co» at about L* 800 fterling per annum.

The leading article they manufadure is^ wheat into flodri about two thitds of which may be fuppofed on their own ae« ce«mt, for the fupply of the town and neighbourhood ; be« fides, quantities are occaiionally fliipped to die dUferatt towns of Scotland. The other third may be ftated as manu- fadured at thefe mills by the bakers in town, for which they pay mnljture to the company at a fixed rate, agreeable to the old charter of the burrough* The quantity ground may be cfiimatedupon an arerage, at 6a bolls per day. They alfo grind at thefe town mills, malt, bear, oats, and peafe ; and manufafiure barley to a confiderable amount. But the article of mak is greatly diminiihed fince the late AA of Parliament, which prohilMted the woricing of the fmall itills in this diftri&j the line being fixed to the northward of Perth.

Thig

^

^f Perth. 51^

This oonpany l&ewife rent (fom Lord IBnitouI the Bak hoafie flour and mesil mill adjacent, where they alfo mantt« faAore confiderable quantities of flour and Oat-meal.

The flour mill of Pitcairn in this neighbourhood, parifh of Redgorton, the property of Lord Methven, is employed by Mr James Ray, the granaries of which are likewife in Perth ; it is fuppofed to manufa£lure at leaft 5000 bolls of wheat into llovr at ra arerage annually, which is moftly confumed in Perth and its neighbourhoods

Foreign 7#7M2r,-*The exports from this to foreign parts aro fo very inconfiderable, as not to merit any ftatement.

The imports from foreign countries, may be computed l^bove L. 30,000 fterling per annum, of« which above L. 900a value may be reckoned for flax and flax-feed. There are con- fiderable quantities of wood, iron, and wine imported, and occaConally fonte grain,

The following ftatement from the cuftom-houfe books^ for an aTcrage of 5 years, will (hew the flax and lint-fioed trade.

Imported from loth Odober ly^it to loth Odober 1788U Say a quantity which leaTca aa average importation for each |ear of

48 Tons of flax from Holland.

23 Do from other ports*

71 Tons of flax, and UTf Uids. of lintfeed*

at an average of 5 years, from lOth OAober 17881 to lotk Ofiober 17939 there were annually imported,

63 Tons of flax from Holland*

I j[ Do, from other ports.

jk Toni of flaxi, and 167 1 hhds. of lintfecd.

^29 Stati/lifal Aceount

Coajting Trade.-^It appcaw, that there were aop Tcflelf cleared out in the year 17815 and in the year 179 Cj these were 319 veflcls.

Arrivals. $f Coajters Inivards:

In 1 78 1 518 vcffcls.

And in 1791 887 Do.

the difFerence of which chiefly arifes by arrivals of veflels with iime-Aonei of which in

1781 there were only 88 vcflels. And in 1791 there were no lefs than 360 do»

which (hews the inereafing improvements in agricuhure.**

I was likewife favoured with the following particulars, re« lating to the glover incorporation and their trade, in a letter from Mr Robert Grayi glover in Ferthj dated November 27th 1794.

" The Ikinners and glovers arie one incorporation. There are about 70 freemen members of it \ not all operative indeed i atiy thing conHderable in the bufinefs, is in a few hands* Excepting the Guildry, they are pofl^eiTed of a larger fond for their poor, than any other incorporation in Perth.

This incorporation has a very convenient ikinnerwork, aqd drefs about 30,000 (beep and flaughtered lambskins yearly. More than 20,bo3 of thefe, are of the fiieep and lambs killed in the town. The reft are from the neighbour- ing country, and from the Highlands. Moft of liiem are (ent to the London market, and are much efteemed for their cleannefs from greafe, and for their finenefs of grain.

There are befides thefe, a good many fmati and flink kid»

and mert lamb-ikins drefled here, which are got from dte

nonh* weft of Scotland* But kids having become fcarce from

the breed oC goats not being encouraged in the Highlands, ota

I ^ account:

of Perth. i%i

tccount oi the plantaHonSi they have of late beeti in part fup* ]p1ied with Italian kid, and lamb ikins for their glove manu- factory \ and they havb a plentiful fupply of mart lamb-fkins for that purpofe, from the fouth of Scotland; and parti* cularly from the country bordering on the river Tweed.

The glovers here have been long famous for making good gloves. The quantity manufaAured 'yearly^ is from 2 to 3000 doten of pairs> and are chiefly for home confumption.'*

I have have alfo been favoured by Mr James Morifon, with the following account of the book-trade carried on by him and his brother* He fays> in a letter da^d June loth 1794^ ^' Since January laft, we have printed about I4>0oo volumes* *< So that you may fafely ftate; that except Edinburgh and ^ Glafgow, Perth is the only town in Scotland where books ^' are printed to any extent ; and that there are generally *^ from 20 to 30,000 volumes printed here annually/' *

Since the above date, the U^iverfity of St Andrew's hava appointed the Morifons in Perth to be their printers.

$ 12* Manners^

1 fee nothing in the manners of the inhabitatlts bf Perth to diftinguifli them, in any vety great degreci from the manners of the inhabitants of fuch other towns, as are faid^ in thtf modern fenfe of the expreffion, to be in an improved ftate* There are perfons I hope in all places, who deferve much td be Gommcnded, and there are others who need a reformat tion*

An incteafe of trade brings along with it ati increafe of wealth to the merchants, and of days wages to the Opera-k * tive^ople i Its natural confcqucncc, therefore, iS| a man^ ner of living fcarcely known i&the former times*

It is too much the. cafe with the generality of mankind^

that their piety does not increafe, in equal proportion to their

V0L.XVIIL 3U wealth I

SS2 Statjfiical Account

vrealtL ; whereas die boooties of tte Ditine Fcodlocii when tbey axe liberally e<m£erredy ought to excite ia 4e perfoaa who receive iheoiy a difpofitioa to make greater lal more devout veturna of gratitude to God*

Some of the puUic amuiements comiDOn in ether phcf% a«e to be fcHHid in P^rth. Among thefe, partkular aotke may be taken of the atni^menta of the theatre* Plajen oc- cafiooally come lo Pettb, and fometimoa they remain veif

liM)g*

it M pneraUy acknowledgedy that raaay of die jiap, coa* moiily uQatd^ have ao immoral tendency ; and the poGtiol confe^uenee of fuch a captivaiii^ amnfemen^ fraqaeatlf in^odttced in a eommereial city, <;aBnot be a goodaoe»

It may aibrd what may be reckoned a piece of earioaiin- formatioa, to rtbte how play$ were r^alated in Pertly 9€tt than 20CL yetfa ago^ It appears from the old reeonb> tkitt compatiy of players were taPerth^ June ^d^ 1589. h^ dience to an aA of die General AflemUy, wbiA had kca made in the year 1574 — 5, they applied to the confiftwy « the church for a licence^ and (hewed a copy of die pbyi wMoh they propofed to exhibit*

The words of die record, fome of them a litde mcNknnMi are> <*PefrfH June 3d, 1589, The minifter andddc^p* << licenoe to play the play, with cendittons that no fvesnsgr ^ banning, nor one fcurrility fliall be fpoken» which wsaU ^* be a fcandal to onr religion whidst we proiefsi a0il.te^ ^^ evil example unto others. Alfo, that nothing ihall bes^ « ded to what is in the regtfter of die play itfelf. If snf ^ << who plays ftall.do in the coouary, heihaU be warded, aai •* make his puUic repentance." That is, be vras to be i»* prifbned, and afterwards to appeu in the church to be f^ baked in the pnblsc place of 4KpenUnce.

tf Perth. 5t3

^ GvtUf, in hU Hiftory of Scodsiid, wken Ij^akiog of a

' company of Eagliib players, who caaie to Scotia&d ia the

' year I599» £iysy ^ I have gre^t reafon to tkiak that Shake-

** fpear was one of the nnmbeT.'' That ador and vnktf of f . play&f nioft probably> began his excurlions before the year

t 1589* If therefore tliey were EngUfli aAort who weio at

9 Pei^ch that year, he might perhaps be one of them,

r la the record, the miaifter aad eiders fpeak of the a£fcors ts

being all of them men. For it was not till fooie tioii after ^. the reftoration of King Charles II. that women appeared

% upon the ftage. No donbt, if fame reftri^iions, fimilar to

p th^fe in the record were siow ih ufet a reformation of the

ftage flMgjht be expeAed* I There are no hackney coaches in Perth, but many pod*

1' chaifes, which are often u&d as fuch coaches are in the larger

I towns. There are fome perfons who keep carriages of their

^ " owfl; and ftill a greater number who keep men-fenrants in

^ Itvery, as bemg faitable to the ftile of living which they are

able to fapport. ^ There are great rarerns^ and a coffee- room ; but there are

no gaming-houfes that I know of, nor any perfons who feem to make goming a trade. The opulent inhabitants lire gen* taely, and are cautions not to exceed in their expences. In tiic year 1793, when there were many failures in other places, there was not one of any confequence in Perth. It has often been noticed, as what is honouraUe to Perth, that thofe of the better rank, let a good example, by giring a regular at- tendance in the churches*

The craftfmen in Perth, were long diftinguiflied by a ftri£l regard to retiigion, Md by the reaaarkaUe care which they took in training up their children, their-apprentices, aad even their journeymen, in good principles aad praAices. I truft it ^ dill generally the cafe. I have beard^ however^ from'

3 U a "■ fome

5^4 Statiflical Account

feme of them^ that ih^y do not find it a matter fo eafyto control their young people^ as it formerlj wa$.

I wUh to fave myfelf the psun of defaibing the lamentable efiefis which happen to fome perfons^ from their being too ready to leave their loom, or their work-fliop^ to meet ia <:QinpanieSj or in clubs, in the ale?houfes. This propenCtji however^ is not peculiar to Perth. It is as muchj or perhaps inore to be complained of in other placetj vhcre the efit^s ^fo have been more vilible,

$ 13. Populatiotu The firft full year's lift, now extant, of marriages, baptifinSj «nd burials, in Perth, is for the year 1562. The numbers an.

Marriages > ^o Baptifms" ■■ 225 Burials — 1 8 2

The pumper of burials, multiplied by 31, makes the nam* ber of the inhabitants at that time, to have been 5642.

The number of baptifms, multiplied by 27, makes the ]pumber of inha^tants to have been 607 5.

With regard to the number of marriages, it is to be oh- ferved, that the manners of the people, till long after the re- formation of religion, were exceedingly licentious. The d* SeflSon was abundantly fevere* Its minutes, now cxwflt,, commence in May 1577 ; and it appears, that from that date, to Odobcr 7th, 1577, which was the day of the annual elec- tion of elders and deacons, 24 perfons had been puoiibeo for having children otherwifc than by lawful marriage. And from Oapbcr 7th, 1577, to Oaober6th, 1578, there weic 07 fuch perfons puniQicd*

I do not give much credit to the accuracy of the oW iifo ^

jpftarrlages, baptifms, and burials. Spmciimes there arc c^ - J perfoc*

of Perth. 525

perfons mentioned for months, and (bmetimes for whole years. I have known many applications made for extrafis from the rcgifters, kept prior to the laft 20 years, and often ^hat was fought for, could not be found, which occaGoned trouble and lofs to fome families*

For fome years pad, a regulation has taken place, which has a good efie£l« Not only the eftabliihed minifters, but alfo fome of the diflenting minifters, from a regard to the intereft of families, have agreed to require from the parent^ who prefentsa child for baptifm, a line from the keeper of the rcgifters, certifying that the birth of the child has been marked.

Such a rcgifter of burials as could be depended upon as to accuracy of numbers, only began to be kept February 7th, 1792. In the following ftatement, therefore, the number of burials can only be given from that period.

In the report fcnt toDr Webfter, in the year 1755, the number of the inhabitants was reckoned to be 9019. The great increafe of inhabitants fince that time, will appear from, the following ftatement.

Marriages In the Following Tears*

1784 222

1785 ■ .166

1786 174

1787 180

1788 .164

1789 160

1790 162

1791 J76 .

1792 178

J793 : >5o

1794 ■ . 166

It

5^ Siati/Hcal Account

It b to be remarked, that many of the boys who come ai apprentices from difitrent parts of the conntry, leave tk town as foon as they have learned their trade.

AUb many other young men^ whole parents are rcfidtogia die town, go to feek their fortune elfewhere in the kiagdom, or in foreign parts. The females in general remain^ and tkere are always more onmazried women than batdidorSi

B^tfms in thi Following Tiors.

Males. Femalei. Total.

1784 241 171 41a

1795 226 238 464

1786 169 217 aZ6

1787 279 237 53$ X788 292 238 530

1789 287 227 514

1790 281 258 539

1 79 1 305 264 5^9

1792 301 273 574

1793 297 274 571

1794 253 269 ,522

For the reafon mentioned in the laft remark I made upon the marriages, I do not think chat any accurate calculation of the number of inhabitants can be made in multiplying the number of baptifms by 27.

Burials in the Following Tears*

From the 7th of February, to the end of December, 179*1 died 103 men; 112 women; 173 boys; 174 girls; a8 ftili born. Total 590.

In the year 1 793^ died 114 men ; 152 womep ; 181 boys> 147 girls ; 47 ftill born. Total 641.

Id ibe yeaur 17941 died 94 men 1 141 women} 129 bop; X2I girls ; 34 ftiU born. Total 5 19.

I reckon the buriab in the year 17931 to be the areragc iiamber. Therefore, 64 ij multiidy by 31 , makes the num« ber of inhabitsnta in the town Mid ptrifli of Perth, to be 19,971 { which falls fliort of the calcidation made of the number <^ iahabiunts made in Dsndee, 4i29«

Formerly, while the town was furrounded with high walls snd towers, and water trenches, the air of it might not be irery heakhfuL But it has now for many years been laid quite open. There are new ftreets both to the north and fottth, by which a free air circulates through the town.

There ^re no difeafes peculiar to the parilh of Perth ; and the town enjoys this fingularity, that none of its inhabitants are feized with the ague, of which the natural caufe may be^ thftt the town is well ihtltered from the eaft wind by the op- pofite hill of KinnouL

I am informed tibat the aged redor of the grammar fchoo!, Mr Alexander Watfon, who has for fome years retired from bttfinefa, has frequently faid, that during the 40 years in which he taught the fcfao<d, there were fome of the fcho- lars who died by accidents, but only two by difeafe.

. $I4« Pmr.

' The poor are very numerous; Some of the heritors main* tain any who may be upon their eftates. The great refort of the poor, from all parts of the country, is to Perth* Some of them make a (hift, perhaps for 3 years, to maintain them* fetves, and then when they fall into diftrefs, or their cart horfes die by which they gained their daily bread, they apply to the public for relief. The inhabitants in genqntli are'dtaritably difpofed. 'Be*

fides

528 Statifiical Account

fides what they give in private to diftrefled perfons or fanuBef^ they often make large vglur^tary contributions^

The permanent funds for the maintainance of tbe pQor> are what is given by the Guildrey \ by the feveral incorpora* tions ; by the friendly focieties, which are now on a farer footing than formerly \ by the hofpitalp the yearly revenue of which, is about L. 320, by the Eftabliflied KirkSefikMiy the yearly funds- of which, chiefly ariGng from what is colIeAed at the doors of the churches, amount to about L, 300.

The different kinds of the diOehfers, efpecially the iode^ pendants, do much for their own poi^r. And the Magiftratea yearly aflefs the inhabitants to the amount of about L.300i which, however, is not fufficicnt to maintain the begging poor, as many of them are ftill to be feen in the ftreets^ and at the doors of houfes.

Provoft Alexander Simpfon, in the year 1778, mortified L« 100 to the 2 Eftablifhed Minifters and their al&ftant, on condition that the yearly intereft of it fhould by them be dif- tributed to poor perfons. And in the year 1780, Mrs Smythe of London, mortified L. 100 to the two Eftablilhed MiniC* ters, for charitable purpofes, the yearly intereft of which they diflribute to the poor.

J 15- Civil Hiftorj.

It is not my intention in this Statillical Account, to enter into the particulars of the civil hiftory of Perth, I refer to all the hidories of. Scotland which have been publiflied^ in which many occurrences relating to Perth, are taken notice of. It was long reckoned the capital city of Scotland, and now holda priority next to Edinburgh. In feveral of the public writs, efpecially in the tin^e of King James VL it is called the cit^ of Perth, and ftill bears the title.

Tbe

0/ Piiih. Sa§

The Parfiamoit iioaie at Perth 1131 remHn$f anH k cdn« irertedy as wM as it poffibiy could, into dwdlit^ lx)iifc8. There remain atfo Ae ancient hotticB of many of the nobility ; 'wUch are now, in a manner^ alfo modemifeds fuch as the iioufe8t>f the ffilhop of Dai^keld, £arl of Errol, and Earl of Alliofe* The £ai4 of Cowrie's hottfe, which was originally built by the Countefs of Huntly, about the year 1 5 20, remain^! but is not likely to remain much longer. In the year 1 746, it was given by the magiftratesto William Dake of Cumberland^ who fold it to government for die purpofe of containing bar« radis for a company of artiflery. It is now, I am tddf to be immediately taken down ; and new barracks are to be creAed fit to contain net only a company of artillery, but alfo a fuljt fegiment of foot. •

The citadel, wHicfi OKrer CromwcH huilt ia the fovth Ihth, was demoliihed after f!he Rcftoration. Very foon there ^nin not remain the fmalkft veftige of the entrenchments.

The lad of the large towers upon the town waH, called the "SfCf tower, was takati down about 30 years ago. There ia yiet a TmaH round tower on a remaining part dF the wall, vrhidi is cafled tfie Monk's tower, and where .probably the Monks who bad been dHbrderiy, were fometimes confined, in order to do pennance. In the bft century, tlie Earl of Kin* hoqI who was ciiancellor of Scodand, and poffefled <3oWrie'a houfe and garden, built the uppermoft room of this tower, to he a fummer houfe.

The revenue of the town is confiderable, and well manag- ed. The peojfle are anibitious of fecuring their money in the fottds of the ptftyfic revenue, which may fomefimes tempt the managers to contrad more debt in -the execution of their ichemes, -than they might otherwife do. Nearly nbo^t one balf of ^ members of the toiin council are deputed by the trades.

Yqi^XYIU. jX The

53^ Statijlical Account

The lateEatl of Kinnoul eierted bimfelf in obtaining a new bri()ge to be erefled over the Tay» in 1766. Befidei what Mras given by individuals, and by different focieties m the town, L* 2000 waa given from the public revenue. The jmagiftratea have agreed to join with the county in ere£ling a bridewell ; but the execution of this fcheme la neceflarily ile* -foyed till the times (hall be more peaceable.

$ 16. Ecclejiaftical State.

The parifh church of Perth is a large and ancient building, and bears a refemblance to the form of a crofs* . It is now divided into what are called the eaft, middle, and weft churches* The eaft church is the mod modern part of the building. It contains what was formerly called the choir, and was built about the year 1400, after the old choir had been taken down.. It is in the bed ftile of Gothic architec- ture, and was lately furniihed, in a very ekgant manner, with feats and galleries.

The pariih church, which had been dedicated to St John Baptift, the raanfe which belonged to itj . and another houte in Perth, with the whole tithes of the parifh, were given by Malcolm Canmore, and confirmed by his fons Alexander L and Pavid I. to the abbey of Dumfermling. The abbot and Monks received the redory tithes, and employed a vicar ta officiate at Perth.

At the reformation of religion, the property of the abbeys» imd of other fuch religious houfes, reverted to the ciows. King James VI. in 1589^ at the time of his maniage with Ann of Denmark, confened on her the lands and other pro* perty of the abbey of Dumfermling. This deed was confiroa- edby A€k% of Parliament, in 1593 « ^^^ ^' ^^ enabled duit file (hould allow for the officiating clergy, and for fome other f urpofcs fpccificdi one third of the benefices of thofc churches

which

tf Perth. 53t

wKtch had belonged to the abbey. Her taekfoiatl of th^ tithes o^ Perth, was John Rofs, laird of Craigie. He paid a third part for the purpofes enacted, and tranfmitted the oiret« plus to the Queen's Majctty. The Queen, however, fooil after the year 1600, gave up her right to the tithes of Pertfa> and the town council became patrons of the parifli.

From the year 1560, to the year 1595, there was ortly one minifter in Perth. From 1595 to 1716, there v^ere always two minifters, and only one parochial church* In the year 17 16, the weft part of the building, which bad been feparated from the reft, by a partition wall, was ordered to be feated, and a third minifter was called by the magi* ftrates.

The town cofttinued from that time to have 3 minifters^ till the year 1740; in which year, one of the 3 minifters^ tras along with fome other brethren depofed by the Gene- ral Aflembly, for following what were denominated divifive conrfes. The refolution of palling fuch a fentence had been carried-by the cafting vote of the Moderator of the Affcmblyf The brethren who had been depofed, though they were not allowed to preach in the parochial churches, did not ceaftf from the exercife of their mtniftry, but began what is called the party of Seceders in Scotland, and very foon went farther in their oppofition to the church, than they at firft intended* The depofed minifter in Perth, was much beloved by the people* A great number of the pariftiiooers attached them- feWes to him, and left the eftabliOied church, fo that the town council thought thare was no longer any need of a third minifter.

The population of the town, however, continued to in^ creafe. In i77i» the choir of the old building was converted into a feparate church, and an ordained afliftant was provid- ed for the two (ninifters. But the ren[iedy was not fufficientf

jXa at

53« Statijiical Accmnt

as thefe was but a fmall part of the area of the dioir whkh had Dot before been occufued with feats.

It could not be expcdcd that the public fundi of the town were to keep pafce with the increafe of inhabita&tat fo a8 to afibrd the number of churches? neceflary. Attempts wen made from time to time, to obtain a chapel of eafCf the icme» dy ufual in other towns *, but they did not fucceed. Only io the year 1788, a chapel was built by fubfcription for die Highlanders in Perth^ and a roinifter provided who fliOttU pireach to them in the Gaelic Language.

The following is a lift of the feveral churches and iel%bas congregations in Perth.

The people of the eftablifhed churchy who are above two thirds of the inhabitants! have 3 churches^ which altogether contain about 2300 perfons* They have a minifterst and an ordained affiftaot* The town council alfo have ptoTided an afliftant for the fenlcr minifter.

The redory tithes ufually paid^ are divided faetwise die a miniOers* Each of them has yearly from the heiitots^ 89 bolls oat-meal, and 70 bolls barley | alfo of vicarage thbcfli L- 3 : 14 : $T* 'T^ t^^Q cooncil pay yearly, out of the Icat lents, to each of the a minifters^ L.2i :5:6f9 nnd have latelyi added^ during their pleafiupey L* 20 more. The town couacU pay yearly, to the ordained alliftant JL 100 ; and during^their pleafure to the aififtant of the fenaor minifteri L. 50 yearly.

Th$ Gaelic chapel has one minxfter, whofe yearly ftipcod is L. 5P, out of the feat rents of the chapeL

There is a new ehapel in Paul's ftreer, which oontmins about 1006 people, who do not leckon themfelvea difien« tcrsy but wiOi their chapel Ihould be veceived as a chapel of eafe to the eftabliflied chuteh. They have agreed to ^ve to % minifter who (baU preach to ihemj h^.ioo yoaily*

The

The diSestors of diffBfeot ki&diy asc aa CoUows :

I. A fmall coogregation of the old Scots Epifcopals, whicb haa one niamfter.

a» A» Eagliih EfMfeopal chapelt whicb has one mmiften Serecal famiUca from the country attend this chapeU

3* A fimall ibckty of Camevomatts^ who ^SkGt to be caUad the old Scoaa Prefbytejriana. They ha^ve no minifter sefidcnt aiiimg them*

4* A fmall fociety of Anabaptifts. The principles they enter tain here» are not very well known. . 5* A congregation of Bnij^icr Secedera, which has 2 mi- nifteta. The people who attend^ are chiefly inhabitants of the town. It oi^ht to be obferved» in juftice to the Icnior Burgher miniCkes, that as a beave old man and a cbriftian, he has diftinguiOied him(elf in oppofing the introduftion of Erench principles.

6. A congregation of Anubui^her Seceders* which has x tniniftesa. Many of thepeqplei who attend in this congrega« tion^ come fitom the nc^bouring pasiihes.

7* A congregation of what are called Relief people> which baa I miiufter. Many of the people who attend in this con- giegatu>% are faid tg^ come from the neighbouring parUhes. A diiguft baring ariien among Ibme pcrfons in Perth^ about the year 1786^ on thrir having been refu&d a chapel of cafe for their accomodation^ they applied to the prefbytery of Re« lief^ and a church was immediately builti and foon filled wlthpoople.

8. A fmall (boiety of Balcbrifty peopk> who are a fpeci^ of Independants.

9. A pretty large church of that kind of Independants, who commonly are called Glaffiies, or Sandemonians. They are

. not like the £ngU(b independants in the time of Oliver Crom*

weU,

£34 Statiftical Account

well» but upon chriftian principlea, are loyal and peaceable fabjeas.

A gentleman in Dandee, fome years ago, wrote to his cor« refpondent in Perth, that if it were agreeable, an Unitariim mtnifter, who was then lefidiog in Dundee, would come to Perth, to give a fermon and an explanation of his principles^ The Perth gentleman very .properly replied, there were al- ready too many religions in Perth, and he did not wiih to fet any more*

It may feem a matter of furprife, that the eflablHhed church at Perth, fhould maintain its ground among fo many diflenters. I am told there is not a vacant feat to be let in the 3 churches ; except, perhaps, fome ufelefs feats in the back part of the galleries. The number of communicants confide* rably exceeds the number of perfons for whom the churches are feated. And there are, befides to be provided for, all the young perfons, and a great number of others who do not communicate. It is furelj therefore of importance, even in a political view, that more houfes of wor(hip, under the j«ri£* dt£lion of ihe .church, (hould be provided.

I hope the falfe phi!ofophy, which, for above half a centa« ry, has prevailed much in France, and which was adopted by fome writers in our own country, the eflfe&s of ^tiuch^ now appear, has made few or no converts in Perth* The people in Perth, have been accuftomed to the evangelical do&rines explained in the particular ftandards of our churcE| and they generally delight in them, as affording them the trucft happt* nefs. It is obfervable, that in as far as the faith of a people alters from thefe falutary truths, there will enfue all manner of licentious conduct.

* I have converfcd with fome, who evidently had been hurt

by reading the vifionary and irreligious writings of Thomas

Payne. One of hem told me^ he thought no reply had been

I made

9f Perth. 535.

Bade to thefi?^ writings. When I told him many replies had been publiflied, and in which the fophiftries of Pay ilt had been deteded^ he faid» he had not money to purchafe many books, but wottM willingly read thefe replies if he could get diem eafily. If it be the falhion of the times, or has been the praAice of fome perfons, to put into the hands gf the poor people books of a dangeitous tendency, furely the friends of our religion, and of our civil conftitution, fliould endea- vour to put into their hands, in as liberal a manner, books of a better kind.

§ ry. Ancient Religt9iu Houfes.

I (hall fcarcely do any thing more than give a lift of the monafteries, churches, and chapels, in the town or fuburhs, and in the parilb of Perth. There were,

1. The Dominican or Blackfriars monaftery, founded by Alexander II. in ri'jr.

2. The Carmelite or Whitefriars monaftery, in the neigh- bourhood of the town, at Tullilum, which was founded fome time during the reign of Alexander IIL

3. The Charter houfe, or Carthufian monaftery, founded hi 14291, by King James L and his Queen. This King was murdered in the Blackfriars monaftery at Perth, and was in- terred in the church of the CarthuGan monaftery *, where his Queen alfo afterwards was interred, and Queen Margaret, mother of James V.

4. The Franeifcan or Grayfriars monaftery, founded by Lord Oliphant, in 1460.

BeCdes, the pari(h church of St John Baptift, and the churehes which made a part of the buildings of tl^fe 4 mo- nafteries, there were a number of chapels, fome of which had hofpitals isa the poor and fick, and. fmall nunneries annexed to them.

i. Our

§3<$ StatyHnlJctouni

1. Oar Lady's eliipd whidi a^oitiU fiie<>Mim(^, Mtf was renr^^d ofccr die former one lu4 been ^vetthmtw doi^ ^h the fcritfge, in the year mo.

i. St Laurence chapel, at the caftfc f ard| the property «C "vvtiich, *was f Wen to the DomimcMi nrenaftery at Ferth, hf Xing Robert HI. m 1405, that the FriafB there Mtf^t pray «0T the foul of his motJicr Elifabcth fif ore, «* who was reftiog ^ in the diurch^ the predicatory Friars of Perth***

3. The -chapel of St Ann, mother of Ac Virgin Mary, fr tuated at the fouth fide of the church*yard. Aa ho<pital waa annexed to this chapeL

4. St James's chapel, adjoining to the fouth fide of the ehurdi.

5* The fman chapdof Allareit or Loretta.

6. St Paul's chapel.

7. St Katharine's chapel, to whidi was amesed aa ho^i- tal for a certain number of old men.

2. St Magdakn's chapel, with a nunnery annexed. The property of it was ^ven to the Car AuGaamonstftery.

9. The chapel of St Leonard tiie abbot* It had aa hoTpital and namiery annexed. Lady Elisabeth Dunbar, who had been privately married to that nitfbrtunate Prince Da?id Dul;e of Rotfalay, and whom he was afterwards oUiged to Teje£k, became priorefs of this nunnery, in the year 1411. The <:hnpel wich its pertinents^ was afterwards giren to die Carihufian monaftery;

All thcfe cfaurdies and chapels were Blled witli attars con*

fccrated to various faints, and each of the altars bad one ofi-

. ciating chaplain, or more, when more than one faint was

tioncfured at the fame altar ', and generally, each of ^lefe

chaplams had about L. ro in die yea)r«

In the archives df thoparift church of Perth, are the diar» ^^lar|, an accompt-book which the pripr kept ibr fi^me years

frcw)u&

Of Perth. 537

previous to the Reformation, and 162 writs or charters which belonged to the Dominican monaftery ; ao charters which be- longed to the Carmelites or Whitcfriars \ 92 charters which belonged to the Carthufians^ 207 charters which belonged tb the chapels and altars.

The z{\% and canons of the national councils were depo- fited in the Dominican monaftery at Perth, where thefe coQocils ordinarily aflembled. But they were carried off or deftroyed at the Reformation.

It was at Perth that the reformed religion was firft public- ly atowed. Mr John Knox, attended by many of the chief nobility of the kingdom, preached a fernion in the parifla church of Perth, againft idolatry, Thurfday, May nth, 1559* After the fenikon, one of the priefts having given a trifling provocation^ a number of the people broke down all the altars and images, in the pariih church, and then proceeded to th^ entire demolition of the monafteries. No yeftiges of the monafterles and chapels are now to be feen. Ever fince that remarkable sera, a weekly fermon has been preached at Perth, on the Thurfday forenoon.

Mr Henry Adamfon, in his metrical hiAory, fays, that ** all the churches and chapels had lofty fpircs." The only fpire now remaining, is that of the parifh church. However neceflary it might have been reckoned to deftroy the cells of the monafteries, their churches, if they had been left ftafld* ing, would now have been found very ufcful.

The records of the reformed church have been better kept at Perth, than in moft other places. Regifters of the tran« fadions of tiie Kirk Seffion, with fome few interruptions^ are extant from the year 1577* The regifters of tlie prefbf- tery of Perth, are extant from the year 1618. And the re- gifters of the fynod of Peitfa and Stirling, are extant from the year 1638.

V91..XVIIL 3Y J 1 8. ramus

538 Statijlical Account

$ 18. Varwut PMTticulars.

Having enlarged fo much on the preceding heads, I maft ht more brief in feme other articles.

Perth 1$ the county town where the Sheriff-court meets. IHie Lords of Judiciary hold a court here twice in the ycaft when they go on their circuits* The Provofts were (heriffiB within the town, fince the time of King Robert III. Thej l)ear alfo the office of coroner, which office is not much cz* crcifed in Scotland.

The inhabitants of Perth, by a decreet in 1602, enjoy fomc difttpguifliing privileges. One of which is, that they are the only perfons, who, in the courfe of trade, are exempted from paying what is called, << the ihore filver at Dundee."*

The Perth bank has fubGfted for many years ; and there is alfo in Perth a branch of the bank of Scotland.

The grammar fchool is in great repute* It has a reftor and fl inferior mafters. The academy for mathematics, aftrono* my, and the feveral parts of education which are proper to fit young men for buGnefs, is well attended by (ludcnts, CYca from fome diftant countries, and is in a flourifhing ftate* It has a re£lor, an affiftant, a French mafter, and a drawing 'inafter.

A Literary and Antiquarian Society was founded at Pertht Djccember i6th, 1784. A confiderable colle£lion has been made of books, original eilays, ancient manufcripts, coins, medals, fubjefts of natural hiilory, and other materials fuit- able to the de(ign of the inftitution. But the fociety has not yet publiflied any volumes of its tranfa^ions.

There is alfo a general library, which continues to be weU furnifhed with books, chiefly in the line of hiftory.

About 200 of the moft refpeClable inhabitants of the towrn ^r^ aflpgiatcd as Voli^nteers, to bear a part io the defence of

out

our conftittttion^ and the maintenance of peace and good otder.

The town has been muek enlarged of late years, and new ftreets, in which are excellent houfes, have been opened in all quarters* If the nation (hould profper, thefe will pro« bably form at la(t a new towfiy on the ground of the Black friars*

3 T a NUMBEE^

54^ Statijiical ^courU

ftood, to prefenre the abfurd <liftia£Uon of out^xfidd afid k* field, which formerly prevailed. On the farms whidilk near to Perth, no ftrid rotation of crops has been obfened; haying the command of iime and other manure, by an eaij carriage from Perth and Bridge^end, the farmers can \txf their ground in good heart without it ; but it would certainly be better, were they to obfervc a regular rotation, as the ground would thereby be kept in proper order at a {m.allcr eapence ; and it would contribute greatly to ^heir advantap^ if more attention was paid in cutting down thiftles, andolber weeds around their fields, before they (ked their feed. Tbere is not much fummer fallow ufed here \ but the end of afaildv is in a good meafure attained by the horfe^boeing of ton^ and potatoes, which, when done with attention, eftdoaUf dcftroys the annual weeds, and cleans the ground. A gnat deal more grain is raifed in the parilh, than would ferve the inhabitants ; and it is generally of an excellent quality, ^ brings a good price in the market. The prices of grain Tary according to circumftances,. and the ftate of the precediiV crops. The, feed time commences commonly in March, aoi clofes with May. Wheat is fown from the middle of Sep- tember, to the end of 0£lober. The harreft generally begin* about the end of Auguft, or the beginning of September. The pKfent medium rent of land, may be about L. i :9 P^ acre ; a few acres near to the church of Kinnoul, are let at L. 5 J others at L. 3 : 3 per acre. Such is the taluc of land ifl this neighbourhood, that c acres, which pay of feu-duty and public burdens, about L. 14 per annum: were fold about p years ago, for L. 560. The gener^ contents of the panin are about 2906 Scots acres; of which 2214 arc arable an pafture lands, a fmall proportion excepted. ITic rcmaiwng 69a acres are planted chiefly with Scotch fir; intermixed with larixes, beech, and other forcft trees. Urf^ qaaatiu«

of Kinnouh 543

of potatoes are planted by fome farmersy which are fold, when growing, in fmall lots, to cradefmen and labourers, in Perth and Bridge-end, and ufually bring from L. 8, to L. 12 per acre. Few or no (heep have been kept in the parifh, fince the hills were planted, and the praflice commenced of laying down fo much ground with clover, and other green crops. The Englifli plough is generally ufed. It is drawn by a pair of horfcs, and managed by one man without a driver. All other implements of hufbandry have of late been greatly im- proved. The valued rent of the parifh, is L.4775 : 18 :tf, Scots. The real rent ma.y be at prefent about L. 301 7:13:6, including L. 520 for falmon fifliings.

A 'confiderable part of the parifli is inclofed with hedges of hawthorn^ or beech, which makes a fine warm fence, as it does not flicd its leaves in the winter^ (bme part with ftone fences.

Air^ Climate^ and Di/ea/es.'^The air is generally pure ard falubrious ; although in winter, the^hoar frofts ate fometimes very fevere near to the .river. The inhabitants -are affli£t€d with DO peculiar difeafes ; nor are epidemical infedlions either common or remarkably fatal. Fevers are rare, and are commonly of the flow and nervous kind, and chiefly among the lower clafs* Rheumatic and afthmatic complaints are the moft prevalent, and efpecially among the aged of the poorer fort, which is probably owing in a great meafure to fcarcity of fuel, and to cold lodging. The famll-pox is the moft fatal difeafe among children, as the practice of inoculation has not even yet become general ; at times too, the meafles and hooping cough carry off many infants, when thofe difeafes prevail in the neighbourhood. But the people in general^ enjoy good health, and many of them live to old age, though there are few inilances among them of remarkable longevity.

One

544 StaiiJiUal Aaount .

One man died a few years ago, above loO; and 6 are nov alive, who are above 8o. The ague^ which was very com- iDon about 30 years ago, is now fQarcely heard of. But in places where this diforder was moft prevalent, and efpeciaOy in the Carfe of Gowrie, it is obferved that yovng people are now more liable to confumptions than formerly. Tb« jaundice alfo has of late become a more frequent difeafe*

Rivers, Salrmn Fijhing, Isfc. — There are no rivers whick run through thisparifh; the Tay, which wa(hes its wefteni borders, being rather to be confidered as its boundary, than as making any part of it, excepting in one fmaU fpot oppofite to the church, where this noble river divides itfelf into 2 parts, and forms a fmall ifland ; one half of which is in this parifii, and the other in the parifh of Perth. That branch of the river which is in this parifli, is called the Willow*g«te« But tliat which is next to Perth is the courfe which vefiels of burden ufually hold, when going to Perth or Bridge-end; but boats and fmall (loops often come up the Willow-gate, as being a fliorter paifage. Veflcls from 90 to 100 tons burthen^ can eafily make the fliore of Bridge-*end in fpringotides > and when larger veficls are employed, part of their cargoer are t<tken out (about 2 or 3 miles below Perth) and put into boats, which are ufed as lighters, from Perth or Bridge-end. It is generally thought, that the Tay difcharges more frefli water into the fca, than any other river in great Britain. The Tay abounds with excellent' falmon, and fine trouts of dlfTerent kinds, which are highly flavoured, and weigh from a to 6 pounds. The greater part of the falmon fiOiings on the Tay, are rented by a company in Perth, who employ avaft number of boats and fifliermen. They feldom expole their fi(h to (ale in Scotlai^d, excepting at Perth ; where the price of falmon ia the fpring is fometimes \^% and fometimes 9d per lib. ;

and

0f Kinnout^ ^45

and in the fttmmer montIk6» they axe never fold below 5d per lib. Since the pni£lice of packing falmon in ice fiaa ptevailed^ they are fent firefli to the London market in fmack8> during the whole fifliing feafon, which commences on nth De- cember, and dofes on the 26th of Auguft following. Two large ice houfes for this put pofe^ were built fome years ago on the north fide of the church of Kliunoul : all the trouta which are caught in the nets, are the property of the fiiher-* men. The fiihiogs belonging to this parifli are rented at L. $20 per annum* A very particular account of this valuable branch of trade having been already publidied from other pariOies in the neighbourhood, ic would be improper to extend this article farther*

Nurfery^ £5"r.— About the year 1767, anurfery was be- gun in this parifh, by Mr James Dickfon from Haficndean- burn, near Hawick. He was foon after fuccceded by his brother Mr William Dickfon^ and his prefent partner Mr James Brown, by whom it has been conduced for upwards of 20 years, on a very extenQve fcalc, add with that degree of fuccefs, to which their induftry and tafte are fo* juftly en- titled* This nurfery contains between 30 and 40 acres of ground, on the eaft bank of the Tay, dire£lly oppoGte to Perth ; for the cultivation of which the number of hands varies, according to the exigencies of the feafon } but at an average, more than 40 &nd conftant employment* fhe foil and expofure of thefe grounds, are both remarkably fitted for rearing plants of fuch a vigorous and hardy nature, as are Suitable not only to the flieltered, but to the expofed fitua- tions, with which the varied face of the country abounds* This nurfery contains all kinds of fruit, and foreft trees, evergreen and flowering (hrubs, flower roots and plants, which are naturalized to the climate* The proprietors have Vol. XVIII. 3 Z always

54<S Stat0ical Account

always been particularly careful in, the feleAion and proof of the various kinds of fruit-trees^ and in confequence of thiSy die demand has been rery cxtenGTe. On the nurfery grounds, (fouth from the church of Kinnoul,) diey hare lately eredcd a large well conftm£led gteen-houfci in. which there is not only a numerouSf but a rich coUe£lion of exotic-plants. And at their (hop in Perth^ they keep a complete aflbrtment of all kinds of garden^ gtafs, tree, and flower feeds. Thefe various articles, 6nd a ready market, not only in the rick adjacent country, but in the more remote parts of Scotland. They are even frequently fent to England and Ireland ; for which, the many regular opportunities of water-carriage fnnn Perth, particularly to London, and other place^ in fouth Bri- tain, give this nurfery great advantages. The happy e£fe£ts of the eftablifiiment of fuch a branch of trade, are not confined to the aAual operators, but are confpicuous on the face of the whole furrounding country. The plants and trees in oar gardens and orchards, have been not only increafed in num- ber, but improved in quality. Numerous and cxtenfive plantations have been formed, and are all thriving fo weOj that an example productive of fo much ornament and utility to the country, is every year finding many imitators.

BrUge-end, and Bridge of Pir/A.-r-The village of bridge-end, derives its name from its fituation, being placed at the eaft end of the bridge of Perth.

The old bridge over the Tay, at this place, having been carried away by a great flood in the river, in the year 1621, the communication between Kinnoul and Perth, was after- wards carried on by means of ferry-boats, which were always attended with conCderable inconvenience and expence ; and frequently with great danger. No fewer than 30 boats, and as many boat -men, were employed on this ferry, as it was

one

of Kinnout. , 547

one of the moft frequented pafles in Scotland. Some of thefe boata were occafionally employed as lighters, for veflels in the riTer. In this ftate, things continued until 1765, when a fttbfcripdon for a new bridge was opened, chiefly by the pa« tronage of the late Earl of Kinnoul, to whole patriotic exer* tions, it is well known, the prefent bridge over the Tay at Perth, owed its exiftence. It was reared under his aufpices ; he pledged a conGderable part of his private fortune, to carry on the work; and it will remain a lading monument, to the honour of that great and worthy nobleman. The fub* fcription foon amounted to L. 11,298: 17:6, of which goyemment fumiflied no leis a fum than L. 4000.

The foundation ftone was laid on the 13 th September 1 766, by its principal promoter, the Earl of Kinnoul, in prefence of the Iheriff-depute of the county, the Provoft and Magiftrates of Perth, and finreral other gentlemen, amidft the applaufes of thoufands of fpedators* The bridge was compleated, and the laft of die workmen paid oflT, 13 th of November 1771* The Earl of Errol's coach was the firft that pafled along the bridge, in the winter between 1770 and 1771. The plan was drawn by Mr Smeaton archited, and the work executed according to his orders, by Meffirs Gnyn, Morton, and Jamiefon. The bridge confifts of 10 arches, one of which is a land arch. The clear water way, is 589 £ret 9 inches. The extent of alt the arches, 730.9. The wing walls, 1 76. So that the total length of the bridge, is 906 feet 9 inches ; and to the credit of the ar- chiteft and undertakers, it has remained hitherto firm and un- fiiaken. The utility of this bridge is not confined to Perth and its neighbourhood, but extends to the country at large; as all are more or lefs concerned in an eafy and fafe communication , atfo centrical a fituation, between the northern and fouthern parts of Scotland. Several attempts were made at difierent ptriods, to rebuild the bridge at Ferth» but all thefe attempts

were

54S StatifHe^l Aapunt

were deferted, probably from the want of a proper fund to ren- der them eficdual. The whole cxpence of the hnAgc, wu L. 261446: 11:3.

Before the new bridge wasbuilt. Bridge end was a poor paltry village, confiftiog of a few houfes, chiefly for the ac- commodatioa of the boatmen and their famUies. The houiea were low built> ill-lighted, and covered with ftraw-thatch ; but of late, a better ftyle of building has prevailed^ and m great addition has been made to the village. Within the laft 7 years, no Icfs than 31 new houfcs have been built, whidi are commodious and well lighted ; which will cherifli a (pkit of cleanlincfsj and contribute materially to the health of tiie inhabitants. Some of the houfes lately built, are rented at JL« 50, and none of them below L, 9 or L. I o per annum. There are 98 houfes in the village, and the buildings are ilill goii^ on -, and perhaps the tipie is not far diftant, when Bridge-end will be an eiiLtenfive, populous, and refpe£lable village. Son;e gentlemen of confiderable landed property refide in it; and were fomc fpirited manufadurers eftabliflied there, they would have the bcft opportunity of purchafing linen yam and cloth, going to market, from the Carfe of Gowric, Couparof Angus, and the Stormount, as the turnpike roads from thefe di(lri£fcs, all meet in Bjridge»end. The Earl of Ktnnoul, « fuperior of the whole village \ and by his lK>rdfliip's charter, for the baronies of Kinnoul and PitcuUcn, he is entitled ^ to " hold a weekly market every Thurfday, and 4 free fairs in « the year 5 1 on the 15 th of May j the 2d on the 12th of '« June ; the 3d on the 5th of July ; and the laft on the 7th of ** 06l:ober« By faid charter, alfo the village of Bridge-end, . •• is to be called the burgh of Kinnoul : and the fairs to be ** held there, or in any other town or place within the rega- ?* lity ; with power to txtOt and build, free fca-ports, harbours, «* and {horc§, for receiving fhips, boats, and other vcfic(^ . a '< withia

i:

1

UK

ii

i i t

09

cs.

o = =5

8 9 8

o ^

^^ c ;:; •

O 3

SP-'

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►*^ "T 2- ^ Sf" ^ O

3 3 cr-?-'

3^

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3^

-^ fi ^ CDJ2 *** O

^ ^ ® -3 ^ ftj -*

3 a 3 "Sr- rT -n ►> »> S« 3 C- O 3

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B s-i-

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Brid

lative 766.

r» „ W

^ P-o

F. 0 ^

r», - i-r

? a^ 0*

&.2 H

p ;3 P

^ Z^^

« S J3

*

00 g^ "tj

0 r

• is

B ^

sit

R 0

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S -^

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» X

«%

»X3

P

oa

of KinnouL 549

*' within the bounds of the faid laiids of Kinnoul and Pitcul- ♦• len, or any part thereof; with the priyilcgc of paflage ^* cobles and boats^ from the burgh of Kinnoul, and from '* the land! of Kinnoal and PitcuUen, or any part thereof " upon the water of Tay.** The beautiful villas, built on the rifing ground, immediately above Bridge-end, are a com* fiderable ornament to the place and neighbourhood.

Population. — The population of this parifli, is greatly en- creafed within the laft 8 or 10 years, although fome fmall crofts hare been conjoined, and feveral cottag^-houfes defert- cd, which Ihould naturally have dimini(hed the population. This increafe of inhabitants is not owing to any manufac- tures eftablifhed in the pariih, for there are none ; but it is chiefly to be afcribed, to the toll being taken ofiF the bridge of Perth ; a circumftance which has induced many tradefmen and others, to purchafe> ground, and build houfes in the village of Bridge-end, who would ppt otherwife have thought of it; and there is a gre^^ probability, that the pariOi will ftill in- creafe, as the village of Bridge*end, from its fituation, pro^ mifes in time, to become confiderable.

The nuipber of fouls according to the return made to Dr TiVebftcr, in 1755, was 1163

In January 1795, the number of fouls was 1465

Of lilales 740 Females 725

Of thefe under 10 years of age, — 341 Above 10 and under 20, — 284 Above 20 and under 40, — 416 Above 40 and under 60, — 323 4bovc 6d and under 80,-— -95 Above 80, 6

Total 1465 Increafe

Of

$So

Statical Jlccwnt

Of Preibyterian difleatecs, of various denominations 190 Of Epifcopalians - 18 Families of Quakers 2

Gergyman « • i Schoolmafters - %

Wearers and their apprem-

Wheels-wrigJilB m 2

Carters • - 6

jailors 3. Boatmen % 6

Bakfrs • . • 10

Butchers * . 5

Nnrfery men and gardeners 14

Sadlers . • ^

Shop-keepers or merchants 6

Coopers • • 3

Boat«carpenters • %

Barbers • • 2

Chelfea-penfioners - 2

Dyers " * 2

Excife-offiqer • x

JhfhrASffor Si^ Tears pnading January 1795, efBapti/ms aui

Marriages*

noes

-

61

Mafons

9

18

Wrights

m

18

Inn-keepers

m

16

Shoemakers

»

»7

Taylors

•

»5

Smiths

•

5

26«

Baptifms -^— = 43f yearly. Marriages for the fame Namber of Years.

17»4- 91.

93- 94-

.11 \%

• 14

-21 .72

Average 13I yearly.

There can no account be given of the number of deaAs» %% there is no rcgifter of burials kept here -, nor would it CDn-

vey

tf Kinnoul. 551

▼cy fktUfafkory information, if there were ; becaufe manf families continue to bury here, though they no longer refide in the parifh ; while others who do refide^ bury elfewhereu

Church cfKinMnly Manfi end Siipend.'^it Robert Erikine^ Lord of Erflane, and great Chamberlain of Scotland, in the reign of David Bruce, gave in pure alms to the monaftery of Cambulkenneth, the patronage of the church of Kinnoul» with fome lands lying in Strathern. He was prc^rietor of the barony of Ktnnoul, in which he was fucceedcd by Sir Nichol Erfkinc his fecond fon. It was ufual for the abbeys or monal^ tries, to retain the te6torj tithes of the churches which w(re gifted to them, and to maintain an officiating vicar out of the fmall tithes ; but this was not the cafe, with refpeA to the church of Kinnoul. The monaftery always prefentcd a teStos or parfon, who, in confequence, received the r^ory tithes, or at leaft, a part of them, as he could )igree with the mo* nailery.

The Patron Saia^^ the Church of Kinnoul, was St Con* ftantinc.

*< January 4th 1518— *i 9, John Watfon, burgefs of £din« '' burgh, fold to his beloved coufin, Mr James Davidfon, ^' Chaplain of the alur of St Ninian, within the pariib church '* of St Conftantine, the martyr of Kinnoul, a houfe and «' garden in Perth."

N. B. Conftantine III. King of Scotland, became a Monk among the Culdees at St .Andrews. He is denominated Monk and Martyr in the Scottifli calendar, and his aniverfary wis celebrated on the i ith day of February.

Psrfifu or Refers ^ Kinnoul, hefore the Reformmtion.

1. Mr James Bofwille, fome Ihort time before the year 1 5oo»

was

55« StatiJUcal Account

vas parfoii of Ktnnoul, he^as^ younger foil of DavidBoIWzUc of BalmutOy in Fife*

2. Mr Walter X>rummond» id the year iso«^» /wasJ^caitof Dumblane, Farfon of. Saniwuly Clerk of the Rej^ers nd Council of Scotland. He was fecond fon of..$ir ttakdna Drummond of Cajrgillf and brother of Johni the £rft Lord Drummond. In the time of the firft Vifcouftt of StrathaUan^ who wrote the hiftory of the Drummondaj there.waaadiaiii^ ber in the caftle of Driimmond^ called from htoiy '* Walter'^ ^< chamber." He waa the anccftor of the DtammomU of Deanftown. . * '

3. Mr John Drumtpood, was fon of the.&ifltMr Wdter« He fucceeded him in the Deanry of Dumhlaaef and mrlie parfonage of EinnouL By order of his uncle» tbfi*flrft Jwd Drummond^ TiXt married, in the year 15149 in: the ehoreh ai Kinnouls Margaret Tudor, .widow of King ^unei. I¥» no Archibald Dougbis, conuEnooIy. called the great £ail of An* Ips. The daughter of this marriage, was the Countefa of Lennox, mother of Henry Lord Darnl^ The Earl of Ao* gus^ was a grandfon of Lord Drummond*

4. Mr James Heriot, in .the year 1519, wMlc£torof Kin^ noulj he was at the faipe time, cgpon pf Rofib aoduafficiift^ ill Lqthian, foc.the.ArchbiQiop of St Andrews. : « .• '

N.,^. I l^ve not inet with, ojr.bfeo iafqimcd of my mmm of the PopiQi parfons of KtniM>ul«

Parfins afUr tU Refyrnfation^ — Mr William Ryftd^ De- cember, s^oth, 1560, was appoint^ by the General Aflte- bly nuni&cr of Einpout. He was about the lane ttaaci chofen re£tor of the grammar fqhool of Perth; and comifiii- ed in bothofHces^ till his death, February aothj itfio. 'Ma- ny articles of bis public conduct are recorded in the EccU- £4iiical Hiftories of Scotland.

Mr"

^f KifiMvi. 553

MrNiman DrumiiMind, about 1610^ was tmnflated from ibme other pariih^ and admitted minifter of KinnouL He was grandfon of the firft Lord Drummond, and 5ch fon of Hcnrj Drumaaoad of Ricparton. His two immediately elder brother* were Papifts^ and^ enjoying offices' under the Pope, refidcd in foreign parts. His wife was Margaret Crighton, daughter tot the latid of Lugtown, His fecond fon, Mr fid- ward Dnimn^nd, having been for fome years with his Popi(h relatkma tn Avignon^ and in Rome, was prevailed upon to profefs the Popifli religion. But he returned to his own couotry .in 16281 and in the year thereafter renounced the errors of Popery, and became a Proteftant minifter. Mr Nioian Drummond, was greatly refpeQed in die church. He wfpte.concorning the antiquities of the houfe of Drum- mond, and his b^ok was of ufe to the Lord Vifcount Strath- aUaOj when he wrote his haftory of the Orummomls. He died at Kianoul, April 1635, having arrived at a very old age. •

Mr Thomas Halyburton, defcended from a family in An- gus, was fettlod minifter of Kinnoul, September i6kh, 1635* He accompanied the Earl of Kanooul's children to London ia <^39» having obtained, from the prelbytery, leave of ab- fence* He was tranflated to the church of Errol, February 1640, and died minifter of Errol» January 1649.

Mr James Oliphant, was ordained minifter of KinnouI, September 4640. He had ftudied in the Univerfity of St Andrews *• He refided much in the family of the Earl of Kinnoul) but at laft, promifed that he would redde more conftantly in his own parifli. He was fomecimes under pro*

Vol. XVIII. 4 A ' cefs,

* Iq i644> fome of the IriOi, who were ferving uiwler the Marqaifs of Montrofc, roafted their meat la the parifli chorch of KSnao^l, and burAt tliC forms ot icate wliich bc«»r);cd t^tht Canimunioa Tables.

r554 St^^tcal Aciount

cefri before tire ecclefiaftical ccmimiEon, and otiier couHf, 99 u maiignant^nilft the folemn league and oorenaht, atod feens indeed to have been all along a trell*wi(her to the royal canR. 'In 1649, he preached a fermonj (hewing how uidawfulitwas 'for women to pray or to teach in public. But ht fiMt^tlk <in diii fermon of fome refle Aions fo revere agaitoft ^pKhmii « general) as brought htm under fome-ceiirure. After'the &ngS reftoration, in 1660, MrOKjlhant, as might wdlliiavebeen expe£bed| confolrmed to Epifcopacyi and dier^ykept poflef* fion of hiftichurch, tUlfais ideath; ift April 166^.

Mr Thomas Fowleri fbnor grandfen of the ag^d Mir Jaflies Towleri minifter of Kinfarnis, was ordained to be ntixiner of *Kinnouli Nortsmber 28th, 1665. After the Rettslutkm, In 'x6^j htf was ordered toleare.his t:harch| for not tbMbVMfaig to preibytery. ' His partffiionersj faowtrer, bekig gltatly at* 'tached to him^ lie corttihued for fome years to e^ade'theoce- 'cation of the Yentence. At laft^ in 1697, ^^ ^'^ ^irfak^ed wholly to leave his church, and delivered up the kiik^bM, 'and above 500 merles in money contained theretfi.

Mr Andrew Darling, was tranflated fiom ^€ psMifll of Hoddam ih fhe prefbytery of Middkbie, to be AitlHter of Kinnoul, January i9th| 1698. He wa^a ifaAe of^<^ town vof Calaflriels, in the county of Selkirk. He had 4M!en Ibiit as a miflionary to aSift tbe prelbytery 6f P^ttfi, who Were Aeu very few in number} becaufe iriaiiy ^larilhes hud rdCfted the introduftion of Prefbyterian minifllhrs. H4s popular talents made him of great ufe to the caufe of prefbytery in his own parifh and neighbourhood. He died at Snnoul, in 17311 Or32> '

Mr Thomas Ranken fucoeeded him in March f 733> and continued minifter of Kinnoul, tin November 1745 ; when he was tranflated to Aberdalgie, which was then a much fmaller

benefice

benefice than KiQiiouli a. circtiniQ(«i^ whidi b oot texjf I <;oinippa in tranflations. , .

I Mr Fatrid^ Bannerman was tfanflated from St Aia4pe0|

I ^ ado^tted jpinifter of Kinnoul, ijtb November 1746, and

I remained mipifler there till Noyembcr 17601 when he way

I tiaoilated to the pariQi of SaUppj in the pr^^fbytery of Had?

f diogtpoi

I I^ Pattlck Meik was t/canflated from the gariihof Monei*

d7» to Kinvpul, July zg/th, 1761, and died there* iSth , Ja}y 176^1 aQ4 th^ preient incumbent was tranilatcd froqEi

^e paxiih o| Pimningt.in the preihytery of AuchteTarder»

ami was a^^^it^tcd ipinUler of Kinnpal qo. the 7th Noven\-

l«ri7Wp The chureh was rebuilt in 1779. It is a decent and commo* , 4i»whQvSt of wor&ip ; hui^h^ much too fmaU for ^ccoi^o- ilating the pari^ipnetaf Several faiTuUca have bgeo, o|)lj||ed to .take fi^ta in the churches of Fertk» ^ cirgumfta^i^e whichtdjm^- nilhes the proviGon for the poor which depends ,o.n the weeUy 42oUeiiiQna of ibis Daiiflv The chuKh is beautifully fituated on the banka of the Tay» Qj^pofite to Ferjth f yf on the north fjde of it^jthex^ i^ ^ffi.aile^ bnelonQing tp the fai^nily of Kinnoul^ and which .^aa the bufyipg'-place of that noble famiiy> tiD about ^o .yeajaago, when^i vault was built for that purpofe,. on the.eaft eod of the church of Ahcrd^lgie* In 1635, ^? elegant monu- ment waa ve£ked on the north wal] of tj^e aile^ to the memory of chancellor H^, the ^tfi. £^rl of Kinnoul \ in the middle of vhicht is a ftatue of hif Lordfh^ as large as the life, dre0cd in hia robe^ as chancellor^ and exnbelliibed with efcutcheons, and coats of arms* It is a very ftri^cyig likenefs of that great man^ if we can judge from the bed portraits of him in Dup« .pUn caflle. There is no infcription oi) the monument.

The manfe was buil^ ui i73{;^^.ithas received fomeadditipn lin^ej and baa been^at^li^f^i^e^i ^^n^ca repaired* The ftlpend

4 A z ia

5if6 Stat^ical Aaount

18 2 cbalders of bear; 2 chalders of meal ; half a thaldcr of Mrheat;^ and about L*52 fterling of money, inclofii^ the Communion Elements^ The glebe is about 4 acres aodn half; there is no allowsuice for grafs. The faaament is iat penfed regularly once a year, at which time, no k& than be- tween 90Q and 1000 communicate: aconfiderable nambcr of them come from the neighbouring pari&es. The colkc* 'tlonr. c|i that occafion amotlitt to about L. to : 10 fterling* The ^rcat number of cDmm\inicant« is chiefly owing totlM vicinity of Kinnoul to the populous town of Perth. The Earl of Kinnoul is patron* An Antiburgher meeting-b^fe was built about 7 or '8 years ago, on the caftern eittemitf sf this piM^ilh \ but the people who belong to it have 119 mimikr*

tchtiolani Pdw,— For fcTctal years the parochisl Hwl has been in a flourifliing condition. The number of fchohn is much the fame during the lumnrter and winter $ and is 61* dom'upder ^p, and f<^metimes about 80.

The fchoolmafter's (alary was lately raifed from lOoMi 20omerks, paid by the heritors ; he has a free houfeand gat den ; and as precenter and Seflion clerk, hfs bhtfys^i'S per Annum.. The prefent number of fdiolars is €5, ^f '^l*^ 4 read Latin; 20 read EogKfli; 24 learn writings sBd 17 srithmetic. The fchool feeirper quarter are, for Engltft, wi for writing, is 6d ; for arithmetic, 2S^ and for Latin, 2s6d. The fchoolmafter's falary, together wiA th^ fchool feet an<* other perquifit^s may amount to L.3$ fterling; there is another fchool in Bridge-end, taught by m Antibutgher S^ ceder, which is^ ptetty ^ell attended* ^

^•w.^Th^rc arc bp begging poor io: the parifli ; but ina»I vagrants rcfort thhhet, from every qttarter. The fundjfof fupporting the poor arife from the vecVy co}le<li(>» «t ^^

\ , . z ' chwrck

^urch ; tlie ftated does for the mort-cloth at burials $ daeft on marriages ; a voluntarf contribution of the heritors and parifliionersi who do not contribute at thechurch doors, or who onlf attend ikt church occafionally ; and the intereft of L. 170 lent out on proper fecurity, by confent of the heritors, at 4* per cent J amounting at an average, to L, ^o per annum. The number of poor upon the parifli roll at prefent ji r8, who re« ceire weekly from 6d to is 6d, according to their circum- llances* BeGdes thefe ftated penfioners, many occafional cha* rides are given to families in diftrefs ; fome receive payment of dieir hmtfi^rent; fpine h^ve the fchpol-fee^ of their chit d«en paidf and others receive fome coals for the winter. Wh^n the poor are entered upon the roll, their eiFeds at their death are fuppofed to belong to the poor's fund ; but very litde advantage accrues from this, as generally the claims of relations for attendance, and the cxpence of theTuneril, it more than the e^cflsof the deceafed will repay. An intima- tion is given twice a year to the heritors, to meet with the SeffioA, to make up a lift of the poor, and proride for their maioteoance ; although no legal afleflfaicnt lias been hitherto laid on the parifli i and it is hoped, it will not be found ne* <iefiary, if noii«refiding heritors and others who do npt con« tribute at the church, or who only attend occafionally, beftow their charity, according to theb abilities.

Jatfjuifiis.'-^Ahont c quarter of i| mile fi)uth from the church, there is a fmall veftige of fheold caftle of Kinnoul. Hedor Boethtus, takes notice of a curious interview between ]^ing James the I. and afi old lady who refided there. <* The *' ftory, (fays Cant, in his hiftory pf Perth), is not altogether ** improbable. The King was im^iGtiire i ibt lady was aWe ^* 100 years old, and had feen five of the King's ptedeceflbrs, ^'befides Wallace the governor^ Bcece, informs us, that

« after

^% StatyHcal Account

*^ after t polite reception of the King, by the bdj, who had ** loit her fight by old age, (h^ was feated next to hb Majeftj, *' and gave him the hiftorj of Wallace and Robert Brace; « << and told him, that flie had feen them both^ who were not ^ ovij handfome^ but very ftrong i and that Wallace exc^d* '* ed Robert Brvce in fortitude. The King departed to Perth *f well pleafed with the entertainment given him by the bdj.'* It is to this ftory, that Adamfon re£ers, ia thefe lines of (Book vi«) of his Mufii Tbr^nodii^ printed at £4mb«igh 1638,

^ Withia this pUce, a lady did remtine, ** Of great experience, who Ukewlfe knew M By fpirit of prophecy, whst ftotild enfae ; •* WIm> &w Wight WaUscc, ani brsTe Bmos oa life, «t And both their maahoodt Uaely did defence ^ Uato that Mble Prince, fiift of that nane, .** Worthy King James, who hearing of her twmt^ •* Went to her houie, thefe hlHories to learn, ** When as for age, her eyes could fcarce difcerne« " This bdy did foretell of many things, ** Of Britain's Unian, nttder Scottifli K]ng^ ^ Ad^ after ending of oar chrill feeds, ** Onr f^rsin fyths ; our fwords (h«nld torn in (pen4^ ^ In ifgne whereof there fliould arifc a Knight, ** Spmng from the bloody yoak, who fliould of right ** Pnflc& thefe lands, which flie then held in fee, ** Who for his worth, and malchlefs loytltie ^ Unto his Prince, (hould greatly be rcnown*d, ' <* Aadof thefeUn^inflyledv andSarlebeccowned; ^ Whofe Son, in fpight of Tay, ibould jpine thefe bods ** Firmly by (lone, on cither Cde which ftands.**

The lad lines, have of late been very naturally applied to tlie late Earl of Kinuoul^ to whom we are chiefly indebted for the bridge of Perth ; and vhofe lands arc on both fides of the river.

At

^f Kinntrnt, 55^9

At Balthayodc, Ae feat of an ancient famSf of the Bhur8» I are the remaifts of an old caflle, the waUs of urinch are at-

I ^ moft entire* It appears to have been a place of confiderri>le I ftrengtb, and bears the marks of gredt antiquity *, but we 'are

at a lofs to kttotr by whom ot at what period it was boilly i as there is no record found to dttermine it \ and fearcdy any

ttaditidnal account handed down conccrotng it. It is fitnaMl . oh the top of a den, where many ufefol herbs and rare planti

are found. Hht caftle is fuppofed to hare belonged lo tlic

Knights-Templars.

Hi/i!r.-^There are 2 hills m A&s parift, Kimotd^iU, and the hill rf Murrafs'hally which arc rather difierent parts of the fame ridge of hills, at the diftance of 2 miles from one another; from which there is one of the moft be»itffal and extendve profpeds. The hill of Kinnoul, is the moft remark* able* Its height, above the level of the Tay, is 63 a feet. On the footh, it is* exceedingly Aj^, confiftingof ragged rock, and pfrefents a very ftrikiirg' and formidaUe appearance. It is^ covered with a thriving plantadon, to the very fummit: On the «north fide of the hill, there is a gradual afcent, thiou^ aferpentine walk, by which a carriage can eafily go to'the top. This is called Montague's walk, from the late Duke of M. who was in Scotland sv^hen it was formed.

There are feveral very rare plants to be found on<the top of the hill of Kinnottl, among whieh, -are the following s

Cjnoglifffufn Officinale Officinal hounds tongue

Ncpeta Cataria Cat-mint

Allium Vmeatf Vine Garlick

Potentilla Afgentea Silver Cinqtrefofl

Veronica Saxatili/ Rock- fpeed well Afplimum Ceteraci, &c.

This

^io 'Stafijiicai Account

This hill has bcea long faoaous for the number of peMblcs found in ifj confifting of fine agates^ onyx* and a few corne- lians. ,

There is a deep and hollow defcent betwixt two tops of the hiU» which is called the JVlndj GowU* Near to this place, in certain pofitiong| there is a reiAarkable echo, that repeats above 9 times i and on the face of the hill there is a cave^ in a fteep part of the rockj whicbi it is faid, will contain about a dozen of men. It is called the Drog^n^bohm We are in- formed from the ancient records of the kirk-feflion of Perth, diat during the times of Popery, a great number of people a(^ iiembled bere, on the x ft of May, to celebrate fuperftitious games, which the Reformers prohibited under fevere ccnfnrcs and heavy penalties. Tbere is a tradition among the com- mon people, that Sir William Wallace hid himfelf in this hole of the rock, when he abfcpnded for fome time.

FrvoijUns^ and Sen^ys Wagis^ fe*^.— The price of pro- viGons has rifen greatly of late years; things in general, are at lead doubled in price, within the laft 20 years. Chickens, which were then fold for 2d, are now 4d or 6d a piece ; hens, which formerly were fold for yd or 8d, are now from is to is 3d; eggs are <}d and 7d the doz.^ beef in autumn, is 4d, and in fpring, 5d, and fometimes 6d per lib. } mutton from 3d^| to . 4d in autumn, and 5d in fpring; veal and lamb are commonly 6A\ all Amflerdam weight* A goofe fells at 2s 6d, and 3s; turkeys, at 4s 6d, and 5s; all other provifions are in the fame proponion. The prices here are regulated by the Perth market. The yearly wages of >a plough- man have increafed at leaft one half, fince 1770. At that period a good plough-man could have been hired for 4 or 5 guineas i and now the conunon wages are 9, fo, and fometimes 12 guineas. The wages o{

women

^qf Kinnoul. ^ 561

voiDcn fierraxits, are between L. 3 amd L. 4 per annum \ of an liDufe carpenter a day, is-Sd^ of a mafon, is 6A and is 8d ;. of a taylor vrith Tiftuals^ 6d or 8d; and of a common labour- er without viduaky is or i^ 2d.* .

CharaBer of the People.^^Thc inhabitants of this parifli, with' a few exceptions, are fober, induftrious, Geconomica^, and contented with their fixuations in life. They are in ge** neral, ?ery regular in their attendance on the ordinances of religion : they aye ready on crery emergency to relieve' the diftreffibSa and alleviate the miferies of their fellow creatures, according to their abilities. And although; there are diflFecent religions qpimons among them, they live in peace and good neighbourhood. • . . - ;

Raadf.^^Thtrt are 3. turnpike roads which go.through part of the parifh; one leading from Perth to Dundee;. One to Cupar of Angus*; and one by Sjcone to Kiaclaven* Tbefe will prove of great advantage, as the farmer has thereby an eafier aocefs to lime and other manures, and the produft'of the'Iahid is carried, to ntarket, a,^ lefs expence and trouble. But the benefit derived botn good roads, muft ftill be partial and mUch limited, while the crofs-roads remain in the mife- rMt ftate in which they are at prefent, not only in this neigh- bourhood, but alfo in mtny other didrids, of the country ; and it is hoped, that fome method will foon be adopted to remove this ineonvenience, at lead in fome meafure. At firft, the common people did not rellfli the turnpikes ; but they ^re now fenGble of the advantage of theni.

Mifcellaneous Obfervatiom.-^Thc number of farms in this

parifh, is about 27; more than the half of thcfe, are very

VoL-XVllI. 4B fm-ill.

$6% Siati/Heal' Aectritnt

fittaH, and dmnot fupport t ^mtty without fome odierail« ploymcnt. The number of heritors » about 18 ; tlie moft {Tart of them are fmall feuars or portionert. Lord Ktanotil b the principal heritor : there i^ no free*ftone quarries in tiie parilh ; but there is plenty of whin ftone, which b Tcry uie- ftti for building houfes, and has been of great ferrice in making die turnpike roads in this parifh and neighbourhood. There !s only t meal- mill in the parifli : of late, feveral mifis hate been built for threihing corn. There is a confideraUe brcv« ery and malting concern in Bridge-end. Laft feafon^ diere was there malted aocB bolls of barley, which paid of duty, L. 761 : 10 1 g* There is alio a fmall tannage, which does a good deal of bufinefs ; and about half a year ago, Mr Tooog^ a watchmaker, has fet up a new branch of trade \ he makes aH the mechanical parts of a watch, and fends them to the Lea* don market } he makes none which are fold under L. 25 : 5» when they ate eompleted.

This parHb and diRrid, derirea great adyaatages fma its * vicitiity to Perth, and to the Tay, which is natigabk to tikis place. The fuel of this country is eoal, a regular fupply of which, till of late, Was brought in plenty, from the Fiith of Forth, and fold at a moderate rate. The ordiiisry price, within tbcfe 6 years, wis 3s ad per boll, which weighs 40 ftones ; and the fame quantity ndw, is 4s, or 4s 6d* The late Aft of Parliament, which took off the duty coaft ways, has in fome meafure, removed this hardflup, as many now bum £ngli(h coal on reafonable terms. Some of the poor m this place ufe brufii-wood, and fome of them, make a kind of peat of culm, or drofs of coals, mixed with coW'^dung.

NUMBER

N U M B ? ?L XXL PAHISH OF STRATHBLANE.

(county of STIRLING.)

MftitSMkMrQiBB/. ?

^nniSB ptfilb of StrathUaiic u!kt$ its iia«ie Itafo die lif^r ^ BLme, vhich rifee !» k^ and vims tbfOMi^ its ^ole esteiit. Bimt its contnakm of twQ Gaclkivpfdai figoiff- ing wmim rwer^ 31)e literal «it(»rpfctatkii of the froid SkmbUaiiey oonfequetitly «fi <* tke valley of tbe.vann xmti^ n oav&e idy appropriated to this puHki whicb from its fitvik tion, enjoys a peculiarly mild atoiofjphere# Lying on the ibuth fide of the Leimox biU^ it is flbekered hy them frooi the iocleoient winds of ihA aonh § while tiie re&edion of the Aiti's rays from a Ii{^ fandy fott, ipipdocee as agpegshlc teoat* perature of the air at all feaCbns.

Sikmtkn, Sctmdarm, tsf£ — Stralhbtane is fitisaCid in the northweft eomer of StirliDgfliirei and lies withing the bounds of the conmiflariot of Glafgow. In ecclefiaftical suttets it belongs to the prefbytery of Dunibarton»asid fynodof Gbfgow and Ayr. It is bounded on the eaft> by the parifh of Camp«

4 B 2 fie.

564 Statijlical Account

fie ; on the fouth, by the parifhes of Baldernock and Kcw« ktrkpatrick ^ and on the weft and north, by the pariih of Kil- leam. It lies 10 miles north from Glafgow, 14 caft by fouth from Dunbarton, and 20 fouth weft from Stirling. Its form 18 an obloiSg fquare, 5 miles long, and 4 miles broad.

&i/, and face pfthe Cwntry, — ^This parifli may properly be diftinguiflied into valley and moor grounds. The Talley is bounded hy high hills on the north, and by a riiing grocifid on the fouth fide of the river, whicfc aicehds about one third of the height of the oppofite hills. This hanging ground on each fide of the river, confifts of a light quick foil, is well culti- vated, and produces excellent crops. Toward the wvftem extremity, the valley widens confiderably *, 'and the foil there, on the level grounds, is clay mixed with a rich earth, depo- Cted from time to time, by the overflowing of the river.

' This foiMs fit to cairy heavy crops of any kiitd of grain.

The mii^ -tuns parallel to- the valley » cottimeiicing at the brink of the^'^ifing ground OR -the footh fide of the river, and extending in -M uneven lurface, about a mile and a half in breadth. Here the ground defeenda into the parifli of Newu

- kirkpsitrick, vrith a declivt(y fimilar to that with a4iicfa it* af. tends from the Blane. A gretft proportion of this confifts of heath ; but in many plae^s, particularly on the fouth border, and in the weft«m estretmty> it is now cuhivated, and pro* duces crops nearly as rich as thofe in the Strath. The foil here, in the parts fufceptible of cultivation, is dry, light, and rocky ; and from the return which it makes, when pro- petly laboored and. manured, gives great encouiagement to the improver. Befides thefe moor and valley grounds, the

'hills on thie nordi fide of the parifh afibrd mdfi ejBcellentpaf-

' ture for black cattle and 'fteep.

,•'..,...:.;.. -The

of Stratbblane. xfi$

The genenl appearance of the country is agreeably pifia- tefque. Coining from the foudi, the traveller at firft afcend* from the fertile fields' of New-kirkpatrick, into what appears an extenfive heath ; bat which he no fooner enters^ than he finds it interfperfed with calttvated fields^ and here and there obfenres a lake of (everal acres. Defcending into the valleyi he is changed inAi the verdure of the country^ the mildnefs of the tii*) and the appearance of diearfolnefs and plenty, which is difplayed around. Several neat villas fcattered along the bot- tom of the hilbi and hiere and there a cafcade precipitating its torrent from their fides, enliven and beautify the fcene. In- fummer, the landfcape is enriched and adorned by the luxuriant foliage of the woods with which the bills are fkirted^ and the whole receives an air of grandeur, from the abrupt precipices in which the hills terminate. Toward the weft, the hill of Dumgoiack, on the Duntreath eftate, prefents a fingularand ftriking appearance* Infulated in the middle of the valley; of a conical figure, and compleatly clothed witb wood| it arrefts the attention % whiUl aihoulder of the oppo* fitehill, projefiing like the pedeftalof an arch, dircAs the eye, as it were through an immenfc vifta, to the |dains be* Iow» when the whole profpeft is bounded by the diftant mountains on the fide of Lochioroond.

Cukivafkn and ProJua. — ^For many years psft the fartnera have paideonfiderable attention to the improvc^nent of their lands; and perhaps the Aate of agriculture is nearly as far advanced as the nature of the foil will admit. Already in* clofed, for the moft part dry^ and originally quick' and fer* tile, it requires only to be manured and laboured, in order to produce plerttifully. The. manure chiefly ufed is lime, and the opportunity of getting it readily from the neighbouring pafiflies of CampQe and Baldernock, has caufed it to be gene*

rally

566 Smifikal A£c^mt

lalif a^ei^cd* The quaalUy laid onatoacc U but foiBi Wiig 4 ^Mders per acre \ bjH this is repeated villi equal aAi ^aimge, after cwo rocatioos of crops» ox every lath |ear» Tlu» £1^ has beea afceruined bj undoubted experiment, The crops generally raifed, are oatSi barley, ^nd grafii4sdi« The ttfu4 foutionp is 3 years, pafturcy a . orops of oatis a •f hay, and then pafture again* The lime is fpread apoii the pafture grafsy a year previous to ploughing it up for oMit This gtres it time to incorpomte with tfic nw^uldf and bodi imprpTes the grafs, and gieiiorates the foil fpr a future 09;^ to a higher degree thao whoa laid on in the (amc year ia urbieh 4ie ground is ploughed* The grafs-fee^ are f^M vkh the fecoad crop of oats, in the quantity of half a boH of tft-fgOiiiktA^ and from 4 to 6 pounds of clov^ feed to sa 9crc« This courfe of cropping is uniformly adhered to^ aa4 is only raried, in as far as barley b partially iptroduoed for the fecond crop of oats* Aa far as this can be dopet U '^ ^^ tainly an improvement on the plaoi but as badey onlf ^ cceds when the ground is well dunged, the iowiag of it M« not be entended any farther thsn the quantitf of that oamiff collefted in the courfe of the year ufill admii;«

. Thi3 method of cropiog may be thought (op fefMi <^ cially the fecond crop .of hay, whkh is very impofsdbfOg' But as this article brings a good price, being ufually fold st 6A per ftone, the farmer depends a good d^ upon it forlu* rent; and it yields ready money the fecond yeai^ wttboutsof expenceof feed or labour » an objeA vortl^ pf bcsqg Itttn^ edto.

Of late ycais, howcycr, the farmer's hopes have in 1 p«a^ oienfure been frufirated in this rtfpea, by the inatteotioa^ the fcod merchants, who bare fuppUed them with ryeipau feed, which remains only one year in the giK>un<i« The W appearance of this annual feed, caufed a good deal of al^

tmd Jifipj^6ijimii€nt» «nd rartous methodd h«fe be^n^floptcdt tb Htiktdj €ft iiipply the dtf c6t* Smuc by preftfting Mrf coReAiag the feed of fuch as remained che fecond ytsir» «c* quMted by degrees^ a (lock Efficient for their own fupplf. Others^ by fewfaig an additionil quantity of cloinor fced» (b- cured at ieaft, a good bulk of hay the fecond yeaf, diough infefior tft ^alicy to the rye-^rafs hay.

But the hope of an eflFe£laal and general relief Is now ^ fOfded> by the public fpirited propo&k of the Farmers fUeiity at Glafgow, who have lately taken the matter isto cofifid«fa« tion« This fociety (of which moft of the farmers in this pa» rifh are members), confifts of the molt noted and experienced farmers iki an extent of country of 15 or 20 miles round Glaf- gow. The exertions of fo many men, eminent in their pro* feffion, pnimife to become of general utility. By a private fttbfcription among themfeli^esi they have already raifed a confideraUe fund, from wbich^ they give premiums to emi- nence in agricultural exertions or ufeful improvements* they dfo afflft fpirited members of/ their own body, by Irnid* ing them money from (heir fund, toward carrying ufeful piw- \t&^ into execution. It has been propofed amongft them, to conAttilKon their own graf».feeds from the bed foreign mar- kets ; b^ this plan if it Iball be carried into execution, ihtry win not only fecurt the beft in quality, but alfb have a faving on the price. When imported to the general depot at Gbfgow, eadi parift oan conveniently get the quantity alot* ted to it conveyed home* It is by turning the attention of the inhabitants of a country to fuch ufeful and pradical objefie, that a nation may cxpe6l to become truly great*

Peafe atid beans have been found to thrive well in fevonl farms, and one fpirited farmer made lately an experiment of a wheat crop, which fucceeded to his wi(h. From 2 acresg he reaped 32 bolls* The ground indeed was fummer falfow-

2 V cd.

5<^ Siat0ical Actowat

ed, and richly dunged. This faccefs would have encotiRgei kim to continue the plsui, but the fcanty fuppty o{ dung po- vented him. He therefore now fubftituteat a turnip aop for the fummer fallow^ and a barley crop for the wheat*, asd from an exa£l calculation, he finds he is a gainer by this lat* ter method. If this pra£lice Ihould become general it wilt certainly be more profitable than the method at prcfencin

The following table contains the average quantity of gnio and hay fown^ and produced annually.

Annual Average ef

BoiU Cbwn. Prodaft of each bolL Total piodoa. Oats 486 7 3402

Barley 44 % 352

Acrcf. Stones. ^ Stones.

Hay lao produfl 150 per ac. xSooo

Graxing. — Agriculture, howe veri conftitutes only onebraoch •f the farmers employment in this parifli. The rearing a&d feeding black cattle and (heep, occupy a confiderable (hare d their attention. The excellent pafture afibrded by the BU,

•which can never be turned to agricultural purpofes, bpA compels and encourages their exertions in the grazing line.

In this branch, the ilock of milk cows deferves tobeM mentioned. This has been brought Jo a confiderable degree

. of excellence, by the attention which has been given to pro- cure bulls of a good kind, and by feleding ^e bcft and fa^<l' fomeft cows to breed from. Accordingly, the breed is moch

■' efteemed in the country toward the weft and north, and the

farmers find encouragement to rear as many as they cafl, to

anfwer the demand that is made from that quarter. The

cows reared, arc fold when they firft become pregnant

vhich

cf Straibhlane. 569

vhich 18 at 3 years old/ 3iid,^hcy then bring from L. 5 to L« 6 each. , /

Bcfides the milk cows or native ftock, a confiderable num- ber of highland cows are fattened upon each farm. Thefe are commonly bought in at the Michaelmafs and Martinmafs markets, and wintered upoa^e farm, with the ailiftance of a little fodder, from New-yearVday,. till the middle of April. They are then fed during the following furamer, and fold to the Glafgow and Paifley markets in autumn. At the time they are fold, they generally weigh from 18 to 24 ftones of beef and tallow, which brings, at an average, 6s per (lone.

The (heep ftock confifts of ewes, which are all of the fliort or black faced kind s which the farmers have taken coniide- table care to improve, by fclefi:ing the bed rams, and fupply- ing the defeA of their ftock, with the beft and ftouteft ewe lambs. In addition to thi«, they alfo buy in froni time to time, good lambs from thofe parts of the country which are famed for keeping good docks of iheep. The profits arifing £rom the (heep ftock, are chiefly derived from the wool and •lambs. The fmeared wool, fells at 6s per ftone, and white wool from Sfiuto 98. The lambs Imng at an average 6s each. A few of the worft ewes called^///, are likcwifc fold every year about Martinmafs.

The ewes are fo managed, as to begin to produce their lambs about the loth of --April j the moft proper feafon on high grounds. It fometimes happens, that a number of them have twins. When that is the cafe, the ewes are brought down to Ihc low grounds, where the rich pafture enables them to nurfe both. If any ewe happens to lofe her lamb, (he is confined in a houfe, with a twin lamb taken from ano- ther, for two nights ; by which time, (he becomes attached to it, and nurfes it as her own. In the latter end of July, the lambs are weaned \ when thofe felefted for keeping up

Vol. XVIII. 4C the

57o Statijlical ^cceunt

the (lock, are put to a feparate part of the farmi where they are kept apart from their dams, till next fummer. The reft are either fold for ilaughter, or for ftocking fanns in other pa^ts of the country^

In the month of NoTcmber the whole ftock is fmeared ; a practice which^ although it is b^ txpenfive and troiitblcfoaie, is found to be not only necefTary, but beneficial* The falvc, a mixture of tar and butter, kills the vermin with which (heep are infefled, and makes the wool adhere clofely to the animal. This contributes both to its comfort during the winter, and preferves a betrer fleece till the feafon of (hearing, than what is then found on the white or unfrt^eared (heep* The wool alfo, though not of fo fair a colour as the unfmeared, is jet of a better quality. Thefe advantages attendant upon fmcar* ing, have been afcertaincd in the mod fatisfaflory manner, by a comparative experiment lately made by a farmer in this place. He took loo iambs pf. the fame ftock, and divided them equally ; taking equal care in every 'refpe£l of the two parcels. He fmeared 50, and left 50 unfmeared. At the iheep (hearing feafon, 4 fleeces of thofe that were fmeared, weighed a lione -, whereas, it took 7 fleeces of the unfmear* ed to produce the fame weight. The quality too of this laft was inferior, being coarfe and matted. He periifted in the experiment for 5 years, and the older the iheep grew, the preference in favour of the fmeared wool became ftill more decided ; till at laft the merchant could fcarcely be prevailed upon to take the white wool at the fame price with the fmeared. The ewes alfo failed fooner than the others; fo that he gave up the attempt, fully convinced of the propritiy of fmcaring the wool flock.

The fame entcrprifmg fpirit, however, which prompted the above experiment, induced him to try others, for reducing the cxpcnce of fmcaring. After repeated trials of fundry in-

X gredicnts

rf StrathhUne. 571

gredients mixed with the tar and butter^ in order to reduce the quantity of thefe expenfive articles, he found that .butter- milk in a certain proportion, produced this efie£l. Thus, a pints of butter milk) added to 6 pints of tar, Scots meafure, and 12 pounds Tron, of butter, will fmear4 flieep more than the fame quantity of tar and butter by themfelves. I£ the butter*milk be a week or two old, it is fd much the better. It makes the tar and butter incorporate more clofely, render9 the falve firm, and draws much finer upon the Iheep, than without it. Befides thefe advantages, the falve thus prepar* ed, is fit for immediate ufe ; whereas, without this ingredi* ent, it requires to (land fome days after it is made, before it can be ufed.

The horfes kept in this parifii, are entirely deftined for the purpofes of husbandry, and a very few are reared for fale.

A table is fubjoined, ibewing the numbers of each lund o£ cattle in the pari(b.

Horfes kept for labour, - - 100

Do. reared annually, - • . 26

Milk cows, ' - - \ 310

Cows rearing under 3 years old, • y]6

Cows fattened annually, * • 442

Sheep, confifting of ewes. ^ 1209

This article ought not to be concluded, without taking notice of the laudable exertions of Archibald Edmonftone, an extenfive grazier on the Duntreath eftate, to introduce im«- provements in his line. Among many other attempts to this purpofe, ((6 which alluGons have oftener than once been already made in this account,) he has lately ihtroduced'a few (heep of the true Span ifh breed into his farm. The only hazard of which he was apprehenfive, was, that the inclemen-

4 c 2 <^y

^7* Siaii/licaJ Account

€y of the weather in winter would hurt them* Of thb ap- prehenfion he has been mod agreeably relieved. Tbey haie already (lood two winters, as well as the reft of his flock i and one of them was the moft fevere,^that has been knowo for many feafons. The only precaution which he ufedi wai to keep thejn on his low grounds during winter ; bat in foo* meri they are fond of feeding on the tops of the hillsi and thrive there as well as the native breed. Their lamb* ait equally hardy as themfelves, and promife to become a great acquifition to the country ; the wool being much fuperior to any ever known in this place. Each ewe produced L.4, and the ram L. 5, which brought 38 6d per pound> and waseren at that price fold much under value.

Laft year he croffed the breed with the Spanift nm aod Scots ewes; and alfo with a Scots ram^ and the Spanift ewes ; and this experiment has fucceeded beyond expedation. The lambs thus generated, have wool little or nothing infe- rior to the old Spanifh (beep, and they may be ezpeded to be even hardier thaffthefc, as being inured to the climate from their bifth. In (hort, there is not a doubt, if he had a fufEcient extent of low ground to winter a large ftock opon, that Mr Edmonftone would pufhthis experiment to a degree whl:h might prove highly beneficial to himfelf, to his land- lord, and, asfetting an ufeful txampk^ to the whde country.

In autumn lail, he alfo procured a few Cheviot ewes, which he has croficd with his Spanifh ram. It is cxpeflcd this will produce a hardy breed, and improve Ae wool tea ftill greater degree of finencfs, than the craffing widi the common Scots ewes; but on' the fucccfs of this experiment) time muft be left to decide.

ManufaBures. — Although this parifli cannot boaft of cx- tcnfive eflablilhments in manufafiures, yet lying in the vic»-

flity

of Stratbhlane. • 575

nity of the city of Glalgow, a portiop>of thtt fpirit of enter- prife, which poflcfles all ranks there, has diffufed itfclf hither. Three bleachfields have lately been ere^ed, which employ a confiderable number of perfons* Thefe belong to companies ftationed at Glafgow, who fend theif goods here, to be bleached. Nothing can excel the foftnefs and purenefs of the water for this purpofe, being broken by ruihing from the hills and precipices, and filtered through beds of the cleaned fand. 1 he ground alfo on the banks of the river, affords the moft favouraW Gtuations for Spreading eloth. Confiding .of a warm fandy (bil, it contributes towards whitening and clearing the goods fooner, and to a more exquifite purenefs, than can be done where the foil below is of a clayiOi texture. The chief employment of one field is bleaching ntaiflins and pullicates. The other, two belonging to inkle factories in Glafgow, arc wholly confined to bleaching tapes and yarn.

Mechanics. — Of thefe weavers conftitute the greateft pro- portion, as befides the employment they get from the country people, they are fupplied widi abundance of work from the manufadiuring companiea in Glafgow. There, are about 22 looms employed in this manner ; befides 10 inkle looms lately fet to work, at one of the bleachfields above mentione4- Of other tradefmen, there are 7 taylors, 3 (hoemakcts, 3 hofiers, 3 carpenters, and i fmith.

Pcpulation* — There being a- great many feuars or fmall he- ritors, who refide upon and labour their own lands, this pa- rifli has on that account been lefs fubje€t to flu£luation in its inhabitants, thaa might otherwife have happened. Ulias however experienced fome changes in this rcfpeft. A con- .fiderable diminution of numbers has been produced, within the laft 20 or 30 years, by the greater proprietors letting out 3 ' their

574 Statijlical Account

their lands in large farms, which exclude cottajrers. On the other hand, an acceffion of 60 or 70, has lately been ofataon* ed by the perfons employed at the bleachfields.

The population as returned to Dr .Webfter, in 17559. was 797. In this prefent year 17951 ^^ ^ found by ao a£iiul enumeration^ to be 620 fouls.

Of thefe there are»

Under 10 years of a^,— 14« From 10 to 20 years, — 125 —— 20 to 50 • — 247

50 to 70 - , —68

-*— 70 to io# - —-40^

Total 620

Diminution fincc 1755, 177

Average of deaths per snnum, • 7 ■ of births, - 13

—— of marriages, - 5 ,

p^or.— The poor are fupported by the weekly eolle£bions att the church, Ind the intereft of a fund amounting to L. 220» accumulated by charitable donations from individuals, hav- ing property or intereft in the parifli. There are at prefent 7 perfons on the pari(h-roll ; 5 of whom receive 5s monthly, and the other 2, being bed-rid, receive los monthly. Befidcs this allowance, they are fupplied with coals in the winter, and for fome of them, their houfe rent is paid. Several others, who have not hitherto been admitted on the roll, re* ceive fuch occaGonal alfiftance, as their necef&ty requires. Thefe diftributions are managed by the Kirk Sefiion, without

any

of Stratbblane. 575

any expence to the fund. To tlieir difcretion alfo, is left the apportioning each poor perfon's fupply, and they keep re- gular books for the infpe^tion of the heritors. By this ma» nagement, the poor are kept from public begging, a nuifance wherever it prevails } and with which this parifh, notwith- Handing it thus fupports its own poor, is greatly infefted by mendicants from other parts.

Heritors.'^Tht fupeiiority of this pari(h is veiled in his Grace the Duke of Montrofe and Sir Archibald Edmonftone Baroncl of Duntreath } whofe anceftors, at one time, alfo pofTefled the whole property of it. • In the beginning of laft century, that part of it which belonged to the eftates of Mon- trofe was chiefly feued out ; the caftle of Mugdock, and the park adjoining^ being alone retained in the family. The eftate of Duntreath*, fbrmerly one of the greater baronies, in right whereof the 'proprietors fat in Parliament without elec- tion, (till conftitutes about a third pait of the parifh. The anceftors of this family, were twice allied to the Royal Fami- ly of Scotland. Their laft marriage into it was between Sir William £dmon{lone. Baronet of Duntreath, and Mary Countefs of Angus, daughter of Robert III. and fifter to James I. This Princefs lies buried in Strathblane church. The prefent Sir Archibald is lineally defcended from both alliances. . .

There are 9 other heritors, who pofiefs property in the parifh, from L. 100 to L. 250 each; befides' 15 of fmaller note, who reiide on, and farm their own lands. The whole rental of the p^riih, amounts to L. 2500.

Churchy £5V.— — The church is a mean building, ereded in the beginning of tlie prefent century; and having never been lathed or plaiftered, the bare walls and roof without

cieling.

57<S Statiftical Account

cieling) prefent a very forry appearance f6r a place of wor« ihip.

The ftipend hitherto has been 85 bolls of oat^^meal, and L. 27 { 7 : 1 1 fterling in money. # A new decreet of modifia- tion was obtained at the inftance of the prefent incumbent, before the Tehid Courts in 17939 converting the monejioto grain; which when allocated, will augment the value o( the /{t/r;?^ to L. ^30. His Grace the Duke of Montrofe it patron.

Roads^ is^c. — ^This parifli is tnterfe6%ed with good roads in every dire&ion. Two turnpikes run through it Trom fosA to norths in parallel lines, at t miles diftance from eack other. The one leads from Glafgow to Balfron, and a litde beyond that village, joins the great military road between Stirling and Dumbartoni at the 17th mile-ftone from Stkliog. The other line leads from Glafgow to Drymen, where it alio joins the military road, at the nth miie from Dumbarton, fiefides thefe roads, which interfe£t the parifh at right aogieii there is another which cuts it diagonally, from foucbealt to north weft, forthtng a jun&ion between the Edinburgh road near Kilfyth, and the above-mentioned military road at Drf- men bridge. The weftern part of this line, which was fbr- tnerly im^aflible, is juft now converted into aneicdleot turnpike road. If the bridge over the Leven at the mouth « Lochlomond, which is at prefent in contempiation, bebuiltf the ftraight road from the weft highlands to Ediflborgh, will run through Strathblane, thereby avpiding the compafilT Stirling on the one hand, and by Glaigow on the other. To thefe advantages, it will add that of being more Icrcli there being no fenfifadc afcent from the Leven, to Kilfp* All thefe roads have received very materid improfcments within the laft 6 years. From being fo fteep and'rogg^'

ditt

» ^f Strtubhlane. ^77

fbat A hiSvC^ couU not draw half a load upon thenii tWy are now rendered fmooth and levelj fo that a carriage of any weight miiy pafe with eafe. This improvement we owe to Robert Duamore of Bailcndallocfa fifqr, the original mover <)f it ) a gentleman to whofe public fpirited exertions this dif* \t\(k of country ftands indebted for many real and permanent advantages.

' There are many bridges over the dreams which fall from

I the mountains \ but none of any note. They all cdnnfl: of t

arcb> of about 11 feet fpan. Of thefe, there arc 7 withia

the pariih, which render the communication eafy and fafe at

all times*

Welts^ Lahesy ?5*r.— The hills^ wliicl^orm the northern boundary of the parilh^ couftitute part of tnit range aiiciently known by the name of " the Lennox hiils/' In former times» the noble family of that 'name had extenfive poffeflions in this part of the country ; and the diftriA itfelf was denomi« nated Lennox. The ihirc itfelf is now partitioned between the counties of Dumbarton and Stirling; but the range o£ hills will tranfmit the name to ppderity.

The *' Lennox hills** reach from Dumbarton to Stirling, beyond which the range is continued from the Forth to the Tay, under the name of the Ochils. Throughout the whole, ftupenduous piles of bafaltic rocks are found. In Fintry, which lies in the midft of this range, about 8 miles ^aftward, a moft magnificent co!onade of thefe pillars prefects hfeif; o£ which a particular defcription is given in the Statiilical Ac- count of that pariih. In this parifli, the f^ront of a precipice for the fpace of a furlong is lined with ftately columns of the fame kind. They confid of 4, 5, and 6 fides^ are from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and 30 feet high« They rif^s from the liorizon with a little inclination from the perpendicular^

Vol. XVm. 4U and

^yt Stati/iical Account

and fome of chem are apparently bent ui a fegment o£ a cunds line.

The higheft hill i^ the parUh is the EarFifeat^ ekrated tboye the reft of the range, with a conicaf top. Here the Blane has its fource, whence it runs in a fouthwcft dire&ion for 3 mileSy and is then precipitated from the fouth fide of the hill, over feveral very high falls. The moft remarkable of thcfe is atitj^out of Ballagan, a cafcade of 70 feet* • This^ when the river is fwelled, puts on a very grand appearance* Leaving the fpout, the Blane turns doe woft ; when after running 8 miles in this diredlion, it lofes itfelf in the Endrick^ which falls into Lochlomond. It may here be obfervedj tha( the Blane^ with the whole diftri£l thrpugh which it rui|s, has been omitted to be marked in A indie's map of Scptland.

At the fpout of^allagan a very rematkable fe£tion of the hill is prefented* The (ide of it^ cut perpendicularly by the water, difcovers no fewer than 192 alternate ftrata of earth and lime-ftone. Near the bottom of the fe£lion are found feveral thin ftrata of alabafter of the pureft white. There were found alfo near the fame place, among the rubbiih thrown up by the river in a late inundation, fome fragmeott pf antimony, which when tried by a chemical process, turned o^t to be verjr rich fpccimens. The fource however, whence thefe were dug, has^ not been difcovered. If it ihall be found, it may probably prove a valuable mine.

There are 6 lakes in the pariih, the largeft of which does not exceed half a mile in length, and a quarter of a mile in breadth* Thefe He in the moor-land part of the pari(h, and contribute to render that a chearful profpcf^, which would otherwife be bleak aqd dull. They abound with pike^ ,perchj and trout. They are alfo frequented by wild ducks» and other aquatic fowl& In the Blane likewife^ there are

plenty

of Siratbblane. ^J^ ,

plenty 6f Gnall and fome large trout ; and falmon make their way up in confiderable numbers^ at fpawning time.

JttiA/m^/.— The caftlcs of Mugdock and Duntreath, cfpe« cially the former, hare been anciently places of confiderable ftrength. There is no tradition concerning the time when they were built ; nor do they bear any infcription from which that can be afcertained. Their conilrufiion, however, deter- mines them to have been built about the fame^ time, and for ^the like purpofe, with many others of the kind in Scotland, ▼iz. to defend the chieftains who poflefled them froni the fttdden incurfions of a hoftile or enraged neighbour. The caftle of Mugdock feems to have been a regular fortification. Covered on the eaft and north by a hke, ^e waters of which were drawn around it by a ditch, whereof the fcite is ftill apparent $ it niuft have been inacceflible to any force, which could be brought againft it iu thofe days. The fquare tower ^hich is ftill entire, has fomething peculiar in its conftruc- tion. After rifing to the height of the outer wall, the weft and fouth fides of it fpread fo as to form an obtufe angle at the comer, over the great arched gate-way. This would ap- pear to have been done with a view of more eafily obferving -from within the motion^ of an aflailaht. By this conftruo 'tion alfo, mifiive weapons might be difcharged from both thofe fides of the towerj upon an enemy approaching the gate. .

Oppofite to this tower, at the diftance of 300 yards, is heard a very extraordinary echo* It repeats any fentence of 6 fyflablcs, in the exa£t tone, ahd with the very accent, in which it is uttered ; waiting deliberately till the fentence ia finiihed^ before it begins ; and il wiir reverb^ate even a whifper. "4

jf <>• StatifikaJ 4<^oHnt

Trefx»^^Two oak trees adjoioing to ihc jniUic road it Blaf- qubofli, ih the weftern extremitj of the parlibi attract thi notice of paifengcrs, as being unufuallj large in this part df the country. The trunk of the largcft^ meafurei 15 ftet ia circumfereace^ a^id its branches fytia tl^ radii of a auk p yards in diameter. As the public idad pailes undemeatb i^ it fall$ withia the notice of every tnvelier* The other pvn near it> and though not quite b large^ is .a more bcavtifiil treci havipg ;i taUer trunk* aitd beiog moro c>o(elf conic4 yriih foli^gct

Iftundatmf*'^''4>w'iRg to the vicinity of the hitts wbicli ati traft the doudSi the Qlaiie is frequently fubyeA to fuMes fwelUngs. k has however, only rifen twice to aa slarniDf beigbty withing the memory of performs now living. A^ io years agOj • a water fpout is, £aki to bav< bur^ sit its fourcc; which poured fa A a torrent from the hillj as tbi^rteaed unavoidable deftru^^ioa to the plains below. Kappiiy IW' ever, - as tbc' filaoe fails iato the valley, at a place vrhence it declioes to both th^o eaft. and wcd^ the waters^ b^rfting froo th^ir accuilpmed channel, wero /dif^harged eaftwafd. By this circuBiftance, the country was faved at ihat lime, i^^ the ^Sefis of the deluge. The waters- turning in thk if^ tion, where the valley is wide and levels they (ls^n<itcd Mf^ U. Here alfo, they could 4o lit^l^ damage^ the grougd to- ward the ead for a^miles being marlhy.

The accounts, however, which 0I4 people gave of the nag* nitude of that inundation, were fuch as appeared f^^ai^i ■ till they were again formidably exemplified, dicing a tlwi^ iftorm on die 1 3tb of Auguft laft, 1 79$: About 8 o'clock «& the eveaiog of that dayi the .clouda whi(;h duriag the ^Aer- nooh hai I^ng in threatening afpcft around the Ikiris of^ ^orizoD. were condcnfcd above th« Earl's feat- Here they ^ burft,

(if StratbMane. 581

bitrft^ and fell, as was evident from the efle£l6i in entire flieets» The fpout of Ballagan appeared as an opening, whence the bowels of tlie mountain were ifluing in water : reaching the plain, the torrent burft the banks of the mtx on each fide, and difcharged itfelf in nearly equal qtiantites to the eaft and weft. That which run weft, tore up every thing before it. Corn fields were laid wafte* Oats, barley, ^nd potatoeis, were defiroyed to a grea{t amount. Much damage was done to the bloachfields beiow. It carried (tones of 3 tons weight a confideraWe way into the open field. At one place, it forced a paflage for kfelf along the pnbiic road, which it tore up like the channel of a river. In fliort, it pre- fented fuch a fcene of devaftation, as muft appear incredible to tiM)fe who have not feen ix^ It is computed, that there Was at ieaft 6 times the quantity of water ever feen in the' river, durhfig the greateft ufual floods; and had it not been for the circumftance of a part being difcharged to the eaft, it wouM have fwept the houfes fitoated on its banks before it. It'lafted 4 hours, during which time, the chunder and light* ^ning wer^ tremenduous* .

Bijhrical Anecdotes. — The name of Rx)b'Roy McGregor, i. famous Highland frec-booter, is famiKar to every inhabitant of this part of Scotland. The depredations which he and his defcendants committed are ftill relatpd with wonder. The following copy of an order of the Jufticcs of the Peace, met in ^{iiarter fcffioo at Stirling,, a littk after the middle of laft century, will (how the manner in which he held the country vender contribution. It is taken verbatim from the original manufcript, fedt at tittt time to be publtihed at the kirk of Strathblan^t ^ ^

" At

582 Sfati/Kcal Aecoum

<< At Stirling^ in ane Quarter Scfllooi held be the JqC« *^ tices of his Highnefs Peace» upon the 3d daj Febru- << ary^ 1658^9. . The Lwd of Touch being Cbyrf- •* man.

<* Upon reading of ane petition given in be Captain M^Gre^ *' gor, makand mention that feveral heritors and inhabit»ntt << of the paroches of Campfiei Dennie, Baldernock, 3tra* << blane, Killearn, Gargunnock, and uthers within the (her- '^ jifdom of Stirling, did agrie with him to overfee and pre- '< ferve thair boufes, goods, and geir,*frae oppreffioan^ and ^* accordingTie did pay him^ and now that fum perfones delay ^^ to maik payment according to aggriement and ufe of pay« *^ ment ; thairfore it is ordered, that all hefitors and inhabi- *< tants , of tbe paroches aforefaid, maik payment to the faid « Captaine McGregor, of thair, proportionnes, for his faid *< fervice, till tbe firft of February laft paft, wittiout delay. « All conftables in the fcYftral paroches, iare heirby eomnnan- ^< dit to fee this order put in executionne, as they fall anfwer «« thecpntrair. It is alfo heirby dieclared, that all who hare *^ been ingadgit in payment, fal be libesat after fscfa tyme <' that they goe to Captaine McGregor, and declare to <* him, that they are not to ezped Aiy fervice frae him, ^^ or he to expe£l any payment frae them. Juft copie ex^ «' traftcd be

♦* Jamk^ Stirling, Clk. of the Peace.*

*< For Archibald Edmonftoune, Bailzie of Duntreath, t9 «< be publi(hed at the Kirk of Strablane."

It is to be obferved, that the inhabitants of the country were obliged to enter into fuch engagements with him, to fe-

cure

0/ Stratbhkn^ 583

cure them againft the depredations of a banditti employed by hi^nfelf to plunder* And as he ^oflefled power enough to overawe even juftice itfelfj it is not to be wondered at, that he obtained fuch an order in his own behalf. Such an inci« dent fliould teach us to fet a high value upon the happy privl* leges which we enjoy under a mild and fafe governinent.

About 3 years ago, a number of old coins were found in this pari(h, inclofed in a log of wood* They cbnfifted of crowns, half crowns, and (hillings of Elizabeth, James L of England, and Charles I* A few gold coins were alfo found amongft them, and fome Dutch ducatoons ; the value of the whole might amount to L. 40 fterlingt The log was about a foot and a half fquarc. A fmall triangular opening was cut into the furface of one of the fides ; by this aperture, the log had been excavated, and the treafure depoCted. It was then ciofed up with a piece of wood, neatly fitted to the place, and fattened with wooden pegs. As none of the coins bear a later date than the reign of Charles I. they muft have been concealed during the troubles which preceded or fucceeded the death of that monarch.

The hiftory of the log itfelf is fomewhat fingular.* It can be tr3ccd back for 40 years. At that lime, it is remembered to have ferved as a prop to the end of a bench in a Cchool- houfe, near the church. Afterwards, it was ufed as a play thing by children^ who amufed themfelves with carrying it to the top of a declivity, whence it rolled to the bottom. It then lay piany years on the wall of the cburch*yard. At lad, it was appropriated by a crazy old woman, a pauper, who lived in a hut by herfclf. She ufed it as a feat for above a dozen of years: She dying, a neighbour was employed to ,wa(h the clothes that were found in her houfe. As fuel was fcarce, the log was laid on the fire to heat water for that pur- pofe i ic not burning quickly, the wafiier woman took it off, I and

$tj^ StaiijUcai jfccount

tnd proceeded to cleave it with a hatchet. At the firft firoke« the treafure came out and was. fecured by the woman^ irho perceiving the value, wiflied to conceal it. In a £e«r daj« however^ it was divulged. Bat the woman'f hufband, who wad a worthlefs fellow, got bold o( it, and decamped with the whole amount ; a few pieces excepted, which he had previ- oufly fold. He has not (ince been feen in the counciy, and has left his wife to fupport 5 children bf ^r own induftrj*

NUMBER

of Leucbars, 5B5

NUMBER XXII.

k '

ff . PARISH OFLEUCHARS.

* (county of fifx.)

II

Bj tie Rev. Mr KETTtB.

Name, Situation^ Soilf isfc*

LEUCHARSj if derived from ihe Celtic languages is faid by fome, to figniff a wet flats by others, a place abounding with Tuibes } either^ or both interpretations faith- fully defcribe the appearance which the furface made fome years ago, ^ great way to the northeaft, and a little to the fottthweft of this village. The diftri^l is of large extent ^dm weft to eaft, and from fouthweft to northeaft, more than 9 ftatute miles, and more than 5 miles broad, at two difierent parts of the parifli, conGderably diftant from each other. The meafurement by Mr William Innes now lies N before me# •

The figure of the parKh is completely irregular, being bounded on the northeaft, eaft, and foutheaft, by the Ger- man ocean, and the various windings of the river Eden on the fouth, and fouth^^ft i on the other parts by the neigb- bouring pari(hea* It is affirmed with truth, that within the bounds of this diftrift, every foil known in this country is to

%M StatiJHeal Acemnt

be found: bliie, whitei and red days^ ftrong and wak, Iharp lands, loam of various depth and firength } a mixture of loam and clay, light lands* mofs, heath and bent in no finall quantities. BoTore Sir David Carnegie fold part of the lordfliip of LeucharS} he employed a number of woiteneii to ,cut a large drain of 3 miles long, paffing through the iireft end of the village of Leuchars, that the furf^e on each fide of it might be turned into more important \)£z%* The Hon. Robert Lindfay bought this part of the lordfliip before the tfftOt of the drain was fully proved. Mr I^ftdfay found himfelf under the necefTity, at no fmall ezpence^ confiderably to enlai]^ the former drain, and thereby rendered it cffeflual for relieving the Jat grounds of the watemhrough which it pafled. Many acres formerly covered with coarfe grafs and rufhes, and about 36 acres fouth and weft of Leucharsi covered with water to a conGderable depth ii/the winter feafon, and not free from vra* ter in the fummer, are now producing abundant crops of all kinds of gtaiui clover, turnip, and cabbage. - Tbefegroonds are let from 148 to L. i : 16 per acre ; yielding a pofiiabie re* turn to the generous landlord, and afibrding the labourers hope, that their expence and induftry may not be altogether omr* wardfcd. Of the many remaining acres to the oorth and itortheaft, fome are hi|;hly improved, and others ioa Rate of preparation for fimilar crops. Thefe cmnintftancea are motives which fiiould prolnpt to exertion in all fimilar fituatioos in Scotland ; but are by no means, to tho(t who wifli weii to mankind, the moft important motives for draining water from the neighbourhood of Tillages. Before the above dcain (of 20 feet wide, and 14 deep, for a confidorable way abo^ the outlet) was cut, the famHies'who Kved near the ftagnant wa- ter, were fubje£i in the fprhig and end of autumn, to iniexw mitting fevers of very long continuance ; from 23 to 35, and fometimes to 39 days. Whde familiea were tube feen in 2 fbch

V

fttch dSbrcfs 9t tbe ftmetsoiei that Ho me ccmid aiBft the others* Thejr depended on the Und mmiftratiofit of their neighboursi for the fuppljr of their nepeffities^ Often haa the pooi^s fund been employed, to pay women to wait upon fnch diftteiled familtca ) and it ia hoped, it will not be looked upon aa a proftitution of that fact ed fund. Since thcfe ftag« nant waters wcfe comfdetely drained, tbofe diicafea and the fad train of complaints conoe^led with them, have happily i»een unknown ; mesmwfaile, it is fuppofeabk, that the fame hap* py effe&s muft flow fipom the fame caufes^injnrery part of the country, and (hould prore an irreiiftable motive to drainingt independent ef the profit or fatisfadion refulting from it. It is not eafy to dtfcribe the ple^afure of viewii^ iiixariailt crops, adorning the place where the eye had been accuftonw ed to fee ftagnant water and noxious fapour impregnated with difeafes and death*

jlgrkttliun.^-*Tht culture of th|s parifli is conduced by a fober weU informed perfevering and wealthy tenantry. No expence or labour is withheld. Every exertion is made to beftow whatever is thought necefliry, under the providence of a gracious God, to aid the fertility of the foil. All cbtlltng moifture is led away, and the plough is made to return till the roots of every weed are deftroyed* Every meliorafing crop has its doe rotation* Lime, that genial pulverizer, that gives healthy fermentation, is brought by water from England . and Scotland, and from limt-kilna in the neighbourhood by land carriage, and thrown with unfparing liberality upon the fertile bofom of the earth.

A very confiderable quantity of wheat is annually railed in thlsdiilrifl, although fe^veralof the tenants have been unwilling to mention the 6xa£l number of t^lls they fow ; by their own account, there ^were 649 bolls iown in lype; and in I79i»

4 E i ' . * <570

$18 Stati/Hcal Account

670 bolls, were fown. I believe that the fiowing of whett j« upon die iacreafe in this parifli \ and althoiigh I do aot pr^ fume to be a judge» I bare an a^Yehen&on^ diat it laay be canied too far.

Cbnfiderable quantities of wheat, barley, pea(e» andbeaas^ are annually exported from this diftri£l \ feveral bandied bolls of oats» and fometimes of potatoes^ but die eiportod potatoes as far as I know, never turn to great account, wbkk has in fome mea(ure cooled the ardour of exporting diis va- luable part of the produce* .Flsz is alfo raifedibut not m fuch quandties as to compete for premiums. It is thoag^ u ferere crop, and there is feldom more fown dian whnt is neceflary for the ufe of the families, or in order to iadnoe labourers to engage for the harreft. Tfae%enant gifca 10 yards fquare to fow one lippy of lint-feed* Some tenants al- low two lippies to each of their labourers. Formerly, the land here was ploughed by ^4 and 6 oxen, and 2» fometimes 4 horfes before them all, yoke fellows in a large Soots plough. The ground is now ploughed with % horfes» in a chain plough made upon SmalPs confl;ru£ki(m. The hoffes are guided, and the plough dircAed by one man. Heie laay be one or two of .the tenants who ufe 2 oxen and a hodes in I plough, and one tenant who has a oxen without borfesB in I or 2 of his ploughs* If it was proper for the writer of thefe f a£ls to give his own opinion, he would be inclined to approve of and recpmmend the laft pradiice, efpecially in large farms. Every tenant fows a conGderable field of clover, in proporttoa to the extent of his farm, or the ncceffities of his ftock* On every farm, turnips are raifed in fmaller or greater fields^ as they are intended for the cows and young ftock only, or for fuch as are fed for the knife* There is no great attention given to a peculiar breed of catde in this diftrid \ bccaofe the cultivated lands arc thought too valuable, and the w^^r

and

^f Leucbairs. s«9

and Uficiikmtedy infnfficient for ndfing cattle of booe. Th« Fife cattle, liowever, alvays bring good prices in tbe marjtet i and I belieye it wiH not be faid that the cattle o£ this pariih am inferior to thofe of the other parts of the countr]^. Cabbages and greens are alfo planted in the 6elds, but in fmall quanti- ties by the fide of the tumip» to be ufed when froft renders the turnip more difficult to be obtained.' Potatoes, that make fo great a part of the food of the lower clafles of fociety, are cultivated by every one who rents land, for the ufe of his fami« \j^ hordes, cows and hogs* They are in general ufed for the laft 3 animals without boiling. The tenants give lo yards fquare or 12 for planting a peck of potatoes to the manufac- turers and oAer labouring people, for fo many days work in faarvefty or any other throng feafon; wifely thinking that this is preferable to money, as ic procures them hands in the time of their need* Much ufeful information concerning the culture and prefervation of this invaluable root has been lately obtained, by means of the benevolent exertions of the Board of Agricaltate*

I know, not if the following obfervations have been made. Many cmifes for the curie-top amongft potatoes have been af- £gned> that mankind might avoid this devourer of fo valuable a part of their food. When that part of the potatoe b cut for a fet which the former year adhered to its root, Tt invaii«r • ably produces a curie- top. -It would be of no fpaall con£> quence^ therefore,. before the feed is cut into fets, that a careful hand ihould be employed to cut off this part of every potatoe, and keep it entirely feparate from the feed. When there is too little of the poutoe left at the bottom of the eye, that is feparated for a fet, it has the fame unhappy coofc* quence. . This year has led men of obfervation to conclude, that wet land produces the curle>top. There are two very long ridges in a field near this place^ planted with the fame culture^

manure

manure, and feed : the one ridge is rather Umtt and flatter than the other. In this ridge, there is not one plant of an hundred found^ In the other ridgei the 4 rows lying neareft the furrow on each fide of the ridge, are curJe-topi, with very few exceptions 1 the 4 rows on. the higheft part of the rid^ are healthy vigorous plants. I know no way of accountiag for this, but by faying thac^ the cxcefs of auuftnre has prodv cedit.

There were in this diftri£l in 1792, more than 1559 cattle young and old, male and female. There were 420 horfes of the above description, and of fbecp^ ^940* The tenants breed their own cowa, and moft of. them their working horfes. There are in tliis pariih 7 dtfe<hing mUns^ and their number will fdon be increafed. One of ihele is £ct and kept in motion by water, a very confideraUc Caving to the tenant s and the machine, one would think, muft move more fteadily, and with greater eScGt, than thofe worked withhoDi (es. Some indeed have made ufe of oxen and horfes } but thcfe animals have fo different a movement, that the praAioe has not become general. It i^ to be hoped, that oxen will be , trained for this uieful inftrument of huibaikdry ; and there can be little doubt, that in fome fituations and cirqumlbnces, it 4night be worked by the .force of. wind. There are 4 meal milns in the diftri£l ; one lint and barley mill, moved by one* water wheel ; and one belonging to a dyer for the porpoCes of his employment.

There are 3 bridges in the parifli, all of them over die Multree burn ; one of them giving parage to travellers from Cupar to the Jionh, and the other to trjivellcrs from the north to St Andrews '- one end of the Guard bridge refts on this parifh ; the other on the parifh of St Andrews*

On this end of the bililgc is crcited the only toU*gate wtthki

itc

M •

of Lewhars. $^t

die bomidi of the diftri^l. There are 50 tenante in the pa-* fHb* The eitent of their farms n irer^ dificrent | from 10 to 900 aeret* Thofe of the laft mentioned extent are in die . caft part of the pariih. The land lets at from t os to 50$ an aere, escepttng thdfe extenfive farms in the eaft part of the pariih ( whkh are rented at from L* 40 to between L. 60 and L. 70. ^

^Heritors, Improvemgnts, (s^r— There are 16 heritors in tho diftrift, 14 of whom do not refide ; a very material fofr to the poor, and no fmal^ difadrantage to the inhabitants^ as their refidence would give real encouragement to the indttftrioas^ and a ferious check to thofe few who in every fociety are ti^ dined to be diforderly in their manners and pra£lice. In the year 17829 we received no affiftance from the heritors faj: die fapportof the poor» and were more than once ob%ed to borrow from die* members of the SeiEon ; being unwilling to dimtniih any Ultle fnm we had beicn enabled in more plentiful years to lay up for the purpofc of increafing the poor's annual income. For fome years paft indeed the heritors have at* tended widx a fpirit of liberality to the necei&ties of the poor % and we cannot entertain a doubt, that their benevolence wtH always be in proportion to the tircumftances of the parifli. On that part'of the eftate of Leuchars, purchafed by the Hon. Robert Ltndfay, containing 373$.acres» ilands part of an old houfci commonly called the caftle of Leocharsi built upon a forced bank of earthi on the edge of a fwampi furrounded by a deep and broad moat^ incbfing about 3 acres of ground* In the time of our forefathers, this muft hai^e been a place of defence, havii^ no accefs but by a narrow bridge, tiU the large drain was cut, which has rendered it accei&ble on aU fides up to the moat. There is a drawwell in the middle of

the

•Jjf-

tb<xcM|Tt» n^icby to tlxe.afloRiflifnent of tliofe ^ho li?^ there

.{pmC'f^zr%9gfff became dry when the water was let put .of

At iQpat, for th^ purpofe . of fcouring it. The workmen

CM^ie at lail iipop the moath of a coyered drain, iprhich th^

jbuiul oa;a lerel with the bottom of the well ; and upon gmng

jAgsfrn ioto the wc^U they difcovercd the fame drain open

,^||ie|ef fifprn whic^ they were naturally led to think, that tie

$i|»)];^it;^its had been fuppUed with watei from the mo?t with-

IBfffr J9^9:fu|nqoax|ded by an enemy*

On this eftate, alfo are fome fine old trees.

jMrXiiidfiqr baa planted i88 acres with varioiis kinxb of

>/ti)nbji(r; tho plantation is in the mod thriying ftate, and ^fpt

.a i](io|l 4elightful reft to. the eye, where oncc^ thcirc was no-

^ thjing to be iieen> but a moor producing fome cogrfe grais,

|ic;atb> and &rze« The traveller too, is pleafcd with tlic f»-

* Wfl prnatur^'^,luxjuri<int .produdions. Mr Lindfay has alio inflofe^.ftyeral^Qclcjs with ditch, hedge, and djke; and hedge rows of trees. Thefe will in a (hort tim^, (kelter and

. v^H^ify the^diftria. In the meantime, they plcafmgly era-

^by- the imagination in anticipating what their maturity may

. produce* On the eftatc of Leuchars, have been built 5 farm

• tt,9s^ngs^ fuitable to« and convenient for the difirrent farms, ^b^re tbje tenants are lodged, if not elegantly, yet with tut*

^^Vie conveniency* The proprietor has alfo fcucd gjroAndw the manufadurers and others, for building a houfe, and a >ixDaU|^rden at the back of it, at the rare of L. 4 per acre, ^o.thaf the yillage of Lei^ha'rs, in place of being UteriUy t|«-viUagc built with tuffs, is become a neat country fiHag* built ..with flpnps and mortar ; the houfes at lead are com- modious for manufaSurers. There arc more than 70 ucw _. houii^ biyltjii tbis, village, within a few years; 8 of them ^ bave 2 flooi-s, ^nd 4 of them are covered with blue flateat*

of LenAm^. j

Oct Ae eftate of EarlVhalU belongiog to Robefi S Henderfeni Efi|« Advocate, are a few dd titea. On eftate is built one of the moft extenfive hkfA ftea^Knga in i {larifh. Thefe two eftates, once wctt in what is called i . vtg, two ridges belonging to LeucbarSf one to EaiTs-l I This mode of divifion, while it mayfeem toftcuretoc I ^oprietor his proportion of good and bad land^ mtft be tended with the moft unhappy effedSf as it drags the wh i -of improvementt and expofes die labourers to no ioconi vablr temj^tatiofis.

On the eftate of Pitctillo; belonging to Ne9 Fbrgnfon, I | Adrocate^ are tome very £ne oid tiipber^ and fereral i i thriving dumfs of young trees. Here are more tncloftti , l>oth with ftones and lime^ and a greater number of dd hed| i ymfkk rows of trees within^ than on any eftate in the dtftri^ i liere indeed were made the &rA improvements in J^griculti ! 9nd inclofing. On this dtate aK), at^ two iiibftantial m i farm tofts. ^

On ikc eftate of Ardit, the property of |oIm Anftnitfai , Eiq* Advocate, are alio to be feen ibme fine old trees, bedg i and chimps rifing. Thefe two eftates on the weft fide of tl i parifli, as they rife above the Eat ground on the .eaft, aflbi I nn agreeable and ^eafing variety lo the traveller, uom Cups : to St Andrews, from Cupar to Xhindeci or fron^ either c i thefe burgKi to Cupar*

On the eftate of Drone, belonging to Robert Mddrun lE^fq. of Clayton, there are more than 20 acres ' planted . fome 20, fome 7 years dd : and within thefe 5 or 6 years , nbout 10 acres were planted with great tafte^ in diAerent di re&ions, from the houfe of Clayton, that wiU grieatiy beaotif] the fituation of that building; Here alfo are two excellenl farm fteads* There are 8 acres planted on the eftate of Pit* kthie, bdooging to Tbomaa Lawfon, Efq. $ befiidea fome old Voi^^VJllL 4P timber.

"4f*

■»%»**» A^JlUVVHVMr

timber* This cft^tc i» indofcd with ditch and^ hc^^ tnd hedge rows o^ different ages« which bpth^ giye beautj, ix4 war^ith to the Eelds. ...

In the garden belonging to Pitlcthie, oji^e ftoodjonc pf thf hunti;ng fc^$ of James the VI. King of Scotland i-Mfl^chM been taken down to z, little belpw the furfac^, ^nd dius ren- dered inyifible. In d^ging th|8, garden, the ff^de run^; ag^nlL a. firm (Ipqe^ and as ftones are valuable here, upoifi removing tl^e ^rth» ^e foundation ^f ^is huatiog feat wai difcovered to a great depth and thicknefs. This wa» carefully raifed, and a great part of Mr .I^wfon^s houfcaud o^es yas built from this quarry. H^re to.o, ww fowi4 .^ , Royal Arms of Scotland, cut in aftonc, which is llUlnifC' fcrved, being placed in the front of one of the bo^fes, fn^ field, near the houfe of Pitlethie, growsi a venerably i$i^9^ ing thorn, where his Majefty's hawks after ih^ir toU^ w^^ ^ccuftomefl to rtfrefli themfelvcs through t^c, nigbi.

Shcughy^lykc, or Tentsmuirs, Is a very large flat pvt of the diftria on the call ; about which many wonderful Tories have been told, conperning the original inhabitants, and lb| peculiarity of their manners* After the moft labt^rj^^SiCn? g»iry, I fin^ no rcafon to concliide, according to gfXiffAtc^ port, that this part of the parifli was peopled by jhq.f;i;fw^ of a panifli fleet wrecked on the coaft. , ; prefamc, that th? greateil part of thia fiat, moory^ benty, fandy groupd, Jial been left by the gradual retiring of the fea. The fea has been making a gradual retreat from that parf of the parifb, for many years pad, and has left what feems to. me ftroijg pipo& of baying once flo^yed and ebbed on thofe grounds, Th^ i)ame feems to havip been founded in that caution and cccoi' yomy ^ith which men take gofleffion of property they arc npt furc of, holding; for when the people took their Action

^1*>?r? ,?^| f ^ .^^"""^.^f^y ^^^^^!i h^ ^'[pwcd bed, ditymuH

hare

V

of Lettchars. $95

hate entertained a fear, that fte would in (bme future ftorm, rctufn and occupy thofc parts flie had been accuftomfcd to travel over. They did not at firft therefore build 'houfes, but ereftfed tents on thofe parts that fwellcd a little above the 'furrounding flats i and to make the fituation of their tents more comfortable and dry, they dug a flicugh or ditch, laying thefod, and cafting the earth inwards; hence fecms to be derived the name Shcughy-dyke, The tent ereded in the middle gave rife to the other name Tents*moors. * ' When thcfc moors have beenr opened by digging, there has been found' in* feveral places, a greater variety of (hells, an(i fifli«bone9, ititti could be rcafonabfy fuppofed to fall from tke taMeft of thofe tent-^dwelling inhabitants ; and feem ta lead Ihe'^miild to conclude, that the aged and ftorm-ftruck Inhabi- tsatsof the ocean being waQied co the fhore/ obtained a grave by- the next tide covering them with fand. There are lik^-l wife in thefe' moors 4 long beautiful canals. Thofe who efpooiSe the idea of peopling this part of the diftriA with (hip- Mnrecked Danes, fay,, that thefe canals were formed by thofe fbrrigners, to defead themfelves from the inhabitants of the furrottttdinig country. I (hall not fay, how improbable this aecotint appears* Thefe catnals feem to give no countenance to fut:li anafiertion. The mod extended of them is not 2 miles long ; and there is a great fpace of flat ground between the north end- of them' sind the river Tay : the fauth end of theni and the river Eden, confequently could form" no defence: But, (iippoGng they could have*donefo» would it not have been cafy for the Scots, to fail from the Forth and Tay, dif- cfmfoark on their te«^, while their land forces attacked them in front ? Thefe canals do not poflefs depth of water to ren« der them the lead defence. * They feem to have been formed by the retiring ocean. - Tliereare 4 long, broad j beautiful, andsilinoft parallel canals; callod Canal-loch, White-myre,

4 F i Tarcmotit,

}9# ititt^fkat Jec^mt

TMemonty tnd TenH^muiiv m Bq; waMs* lAimt tUl jtUf (hat the tsiiftnu nre ovtting dnum, attd leMbg ^k 5M» *er out 0f thefe caaals» i» fender tfie fsftttve anoie bensfiaU «o thek cattle. Sttaageit vidmg into ihit flat aniootwif fertile p«M 9i tbe parift, ire forprifed wkk fiodii^ tlui «il» 97 micm^. I hire feen their eyes tetom te^it wjthykafiii^ In; dR (mntr, e^eeiaUy tf it be a dry oae,. Ae gmtift ptfl •£ tiie wvCfT is earriedaway by the wind, andreahdidlbf iMr ftuu When ia diis ftate, the canals fumifli a eedfid^Mr.

, ^Miitity «f coaife frafr for the horlbs uti catde. la f|b]M

< c£ the difljiid^ there are ctHle o£ a fmall fiirr^ied^ i» Mf well be fiipfoftd, fiom the nfitweef their^|afttievtM*« few wnrUiiehorftt of a duuauri^ breed, m libm^^^ «fii5 great caiteiiti kept ifttfllage. OnegmtdiMnaiCage* tending this £Midy pert of thepiri(ki6| Aaa after the fitlir ate ^fowi and harrewiedt if the wind Uowaftioi^ ftw^ht

' wefti^w faidt^dftr thB niMld to Uown off the feed, md^M* mfreqtttttljtt'a.'W&ideAUepaft el the feei>l|bv&^>'to ahefown gwttiid« ^^^

' ThiafiuliafiDroaiabletDturaipip barle]v«n>d<hiver5 g^M

' ecDpe of oataand rjre, are obiaiaect heit. TfaebiibfdMit growa in this fimdy fea» is hearter iq ptopbitiiBWaiiitipl quantity of theiame grahi'tfakit is produce* £Mi^gebddi^$» tbe liarmer beiog thnmer ia the hcrfk abaft thrbcteK ^Ihi oropt of peafe, with a Ibw bcaii» omoii; Aen^ MM 1^^

' 'or prodoAire. • ••...-■>

Theitfi^ ia thia^ part «« the diiMO^ »4»iioal^ iaoonfideAbte vabic^ oppafiieto aiinatt iiMriet that^moB tato tfae^ooean. ' Vrotw the onttyvof d^etrule% alMgtfaeftotett^ tbe tif er £don> the people fomeilmes^ umfe themfeifes by ifiking ia the fiiattaer feafonr, hrthe foUowittg aaaatier^ T«r» of the people uke » loag not widi wtighm upoo ifae-iiott

^ edge of it> go into the ieo aa^fiuroa they oiaf wtih bbfff ^^

' tcfld

iiwnikc99 md •thar kiiidi# f( 'fift. They ttfe of fiiUivilf^ ia.tlltli#>cMftMentfoobin tsmr Sdpi^ whm k is ttiriraler^ TUs -tbey otriy ido wmiifcmf nr, <r whca they hmg far fijk bitiMlcfiin[»fea dttC if dM^fe fiOuttgs iMre properly utendcdto^ Atytfti Api^ ^ the ^bria with diis whokfcttie 4q4 tgrndrifa tkk^ food ) Tbe«« wtte t«ro no way ineonftlfiMM lab ^ilWjigi in die rivtr/ one iminedittely below dw Gterd^biii the other ^Vfofiio to thoGUUe4iOttfe» fooafltd^ fnMlitif bMt beif« fee^e.theref by which traveUen ftom die feud Ihe^o^ Midfroatheiioftli 10 dielbiid^ftoM w«f by a odletf inflaee of gmngmaadbytheTOtuvd^bik B«i fiMe ika diftttery wa9:«reaed upon Ae fcotk fide of met arKbcapky. 19011 a bank Oopfingipwni^ daa £J bodi ihela fi(faliig» have been flMtdi tn^nted bf ttosiona ih . Jbvhif Aonl Ihe dtftiHery whiek rmiioeo the nven . 1 Ofie.ot the Coble-homie is entirely giyen ^» and the 0$ IMatfy deeraafed* '^^en diefe were fiflied^ Cihimi '1 jMntghbhere at idfand m id^ per pound Dntch^ Ho fido tJWni hoipawchoM now below 4d, or fie^tently. 8d per pen ^nie:^Eq|itft«oon» aod many odier f araos in the pari V itbooad vdthjgrey nhbte* U u aUoired on att handib t ' ^£deai.thofiraniai«da.with-tfieirforrsj yieMsmore d LKaoo per a/mum. This pore of the pariib is now riw the only dM^whoe ih^are^ re«ed« It has heen theuj diasdus tme breed of .Sivta^heep m to be fb«iid hare: i gtnaBy it mi^t hare boen^i tetthey fasre pafledthrougli snany.irofr breeds^ thatitbey are gready degenerated i y^ di< . remain fane rery fine^wo^ed (heep) whid^ il properly attei edto^mi^ttigain rival drisir neighbours forihefinen^&ef th - flqeeas. There has been a flock of \^ iheep^tdy added .. , r ' " t

59$ Siaiifiifal Jfccaunt

the former ftock^ making in all 21 2o» It is only in this part of .the difliiA, the numbers are kept up. They have been 45- creaCag in the weft part of the pariib^ for m^nj yean, smi DOW are reduced to one flock. In this flock, 9re a great pso* portion of long tailed (heep without hocDs ; their paftuie;ii higher J and of courfe, more dry and nourifluog; theflifi^ of a larger (i:^^., and flner wool. But in the eail part of dM parifli, the grafs is of a coarfer, nature, and the foil more fuln jed to retain water from its fiatnefs i the (heep.of a bnatta fixe, tl^ 4 quarters weighing from 20 to 26 pounds* TU time was, when every farm in the didrldl, had a Bock be- longing to it^ till the culture of clover .and rye«graA became general, and every fpot of grafs land was made t^ fed ^ pulverifing eficdts of the plough an4 harrow^ when it was- thought more profitable (0 part with thcfe meek, hsTinM^ axid ufeful creatures.

lii the Tents moors, f<?iuggling was carried on to a gn^C extent, by thofe men in the neighbourhood, who were de» termined to rifle their fortune and chara&er on jhe eveotsof a day i for the inhabitants of this corner, y^rere only aiS&i°K iii concealing and trjnfporting their unlawf^l impf)^ ^f the wife and vigorous interpofition of the 4ire4<H^ ^^ ^^'^ judly admired government, fmuggling^ that illicit tr^tb>e> with many evils to mankind, is how happily unknown oira all our coads. The inhabitants of. this reqapte coxner hate been blamed for cruelty to fliip-^vrecked £ai|ors« If the charge be juil, it docs not belong .to them, alone , they ais but a handful $ the place is thinly peopjed. In the i^)^ ^ old, it might have been fo ; but I have feen much attentioa and kindncfs (h^wn to fuch unhappy failorsas were call upon our fliore, I tiuft, and believe, that every future perkxi liiall be marked with an incrcafe of .brotl^erlj love to tbc^* foi lunate. .

Cit/rcit

of Leucbaru

Chm-ebf Stipihdy School and Poor ^Tlic church of licuc

i§ placed nearly in the middle of the parifh. It is an an( feflybuildingi pait of it tery- ancient, fituated on a ri ; grdiiiid. . The biiilding is more than fufiicient to hold the rHhioners. There is no record by which the time of its c • tion can be fixed^ and there is even no tradition on the fab The church was once the only one in Scotl^ind whof<i (le i vfeended on the eait end of the building. The time ^ "when our forefathers worthipped here according to the fo of «he Romifb church. The door through which the orga ' entered to perform that part of the fcrvico allotted to him fiiMfeen in the eaft gable of the church ; and the place wh i the holy water was kept to purify the worlhippers on tl cmry into this temple is alfo rifibie. The iron hook on wh I was fufpcnded the lever for weighing meal on the Lord^s fl ' is batted into the Icey ftone of an arch in the fteepie; and i the place below,. other merchant wares were ibid on tl i holy day.

A very little weft of the prefcnt chutch, once ftood a cl p^l called fy, Bernard's chapel ; no remains of this monum< oi antiquity are now vifible, the ftones of it having been u( i foT'Common purpofes. Round where it ftood are, to be fe i mawy graves, conftra£ked of 4, and fome of 6 ftones. Sor 1 of thefe graves have lately been looked into without affbrdii | >ny thing wortby of being recorded.

^ There is a moft excellent well flowing with an abunda ftretm of fofv waber, near the weft end of the village, (forti • viikge is now extending wejRward,) called by the name < > ihe&int, to whom tlie chapel was no doubt confecratel A little north of the esift end of jhe village, totheconvr nience and comfort of the inhabitants, there is another we I pf equal excetterice, called the Lady well, no doubt confo frate4 to the Blcifed Virgin. Tradition (ays, th^c one

(lop(

ftood A hmtfeof wovfliip on die caft fide of tlie nuid» c^t< to the hottfe of Ardit » z (budl field bdoi^ng to that eftate retains tlie name of the glebe. There wstt alfo oaoe a duqicl and bnrjring groand at eatf' Drone in this pariOi s The glebe la the name of a field there teio» halt the real hUbcf ef dicfe has not been tranfmitted tone. Thereisatr^dkidntacoQrdini to the acGonnt by the Rev. Robert DalglcSfli ^ Scoti-cnig, D. D. Aat the yiUage of Feirj-Porton^rugB^ before tk i<o5« belonged to this parilh.

The ftipend of this parifli till the year 1791, vat 64 bab bean 8 bolls ndieat; 8 bolls oats; L. 330^0:9 Scots, anJi L. 36: 16 : 8 Scots, licaragci in wUdi ta tndadcd 40 nctlu for GMimunion dements* By an Interloeutor of the Cosit of fltflbdf in 1791, their Lordlhips were plenCed to pre dn foUonrhig augmentation. Out of a part of the free tytks of tfaepariflit 24 bolls bear} 24 boUs meal ^ «nd L»42:x5:i< ScotSi in which is incladed, £.42 Scots for CommaoioB etc* ments. The Sacrament of our Lord's^upper is annasBf dit pcnfed in this congregation, in the bcgisniog of Hardii ^ cnd^ July, to between 700 and 800 communicaiitSi Tfaf Kirk Seffion received from the blChop of St Andiew^'i &» funds belonging to himCelf, L. aS/Scota for Comnmniob eie« ments; the receipt of frhich^ is entered foe die hft tun^^* the Seilton records, in the year 1728.

The legal falary of the pariOi Ichoolmafter, isL.6:i3:4 fterling. He haa befidea, by a. merdfication, a heii£^ V^' den, and croft; and 2 acres of U^t land, adiont half a mk nortl|weft of the village of Lencfaars; and L.4*i<'*^^' left to thofe who hold the ofice of fchdolmafter, ^ ^^ eminent and woithy defgyman oiE diis pariihy the Rer. Ala* ander Hendei&n.

Leochars is a p)ea(ant healthy country TiUage, where boar- ders may be kept to advantage, The.prefent incambeat,

of l^ucbars. ' (bt^

got 9 £cw hotx ^htt he was ele£kcd^ aad.bfta.room i<ir ii ^^^'' er number. Tke oumber. of fcholar^ m the winter is from' So to iQO* The fchool fees are as low as any in Sepiiaiid*' Every man who is fejnfible of the importance of e/dwci^tng the youth, and underftands the true intere.fta of his countiyi o)ii& regret, that a body of men fo refpediable, and fo extenfif el/ ufeful as the parifli-fchoolmafters are, ihould.h^ve.appoint*- mente to very unequal to their, labour and ^o the fitu^tiefi o£ their families. -^

Thq p^r in this parifli arc fupported in their 0:wn'hoi|fes. The Kirk Seflipn are enabled to provide for them by tfte> weekly cplle£):ions at the church, and the money arifing from the mprt-dothsj which were originally purchaCed frotn thfi poor's funds ; by the rent of 5 acres iii the priory of. St. An* drews, purchafed in the fame way ; and by the produce of. a « few feats in the church, yielding about L* i ^^xWxigper qnn^m* I believe there is no fund managed with fuch care, or ren-. dered fo extenfively ufeful, as the little funds in the hands oi^ the Kirk Seflions of Scotland. We do not allow any of our pbor.to beg, though beggars pour in upon us from the nprth and fputh, in greater numbers than the Gtuations of n^en in moderate circumilances can enable them tafupply. Ther^ are laws tp prevent this ; but of what ufe are laws, if they are not put in execution? We have invariably found. |hat thofe who are moft unwilling to acfcept of aid from the. pa- rifli, are leaft eafily fatisfied,^ when they h^aye begun to receive it $ v^hereas^ thofe who mpdeilly intimate their wanj:? and receive afliftance^ as foon as. their circumilances become lefs neceflitous, with hearts overflowing with gratitude to Almighty God, inform us that they are ablp to fupport tbemfelves, and thank the Sefhon for the kindnefs (hewn them while it was neceflary. Pcnfioners of this defcription, we fiipply with the grcateft fatisfadion.

Vqjl. XVill. 4G P^/fl//V»,-.

6ot Stait/tical Acewnt

FdpidoHon^ {^/.— By the tctufn t& Or Webftcr in l^jji the numbers were 16^1. Bjr the laft accurstc furvcy of the pmfhf the numbers were 162a The decreafe,' which i& *IU h to be accounted for in the foilowidi; maiiDer. Then m 6 difihrem farms in the paryfh, occopitd by oneteflMt't for- IVieriy ^fiefled by 3-. There is ifkd^A one farm iMtA into 3, bot there are 3 other farms pofieiled by one tenant, which Were formerly occuj[ned by a. Every plo»gh to the psiifli /ome years ago, had a man to hold, and a youth 10 dnre in the labour of the farms was chiefly canrieif 00 by married fet- Vapts whofe families refided on them* It is more the cuHom sow to perform the labopr by ttnmarried fewants who ha^e j hoMfe near the tenants, in which they fleepi asd prepare their food. After they retire. from work^ they arc free from the ' refpeft due to the eye of their m»fter, «nd' if incfiaed to wan-' der^ are at full liberty. I beliere that thefe cireumftances are not favourable to morals, and that the u^ion of fmatt into large farmsi is unfriendly to popalatiOn.

Abftra£k of Baptifms and Marriages from 175^, to 1759 inclufrve, (there being no record of burials kept at that pe- riod i) and from 1780, to 1789 Midufire, to which the lift ©< funerals within that period is added* No calculation can however be made of the number of deaths from the funerab; as many from neighbouring pari&es ^are buried her^, and many of the people of this ptrifli in the neighbouring dtuidi- yardst

Baptifms*

.^

604 Stati/ii^dl Account

. There are in th^ parifh, 22 Antiburgher, snd 13 Biir|lier Seceders; 1 Bereaii^ and i member of the Epifcopal chttick ; 37 DiiTentera in all. * There are 13 wrights; 9 mafons; 9 fmiths ; 8 ((hoemakers ; 6 taylors ; 3 wbeel-wrights, 2 of 'thefe are coopers ( i furgeon; 1 brewer; i baker, and i bee-hnre and baik^t maker. In the ▼illage of Leuchars, are 7 ale-hott&St and there are 2 others in the diftri£t:. Two a]e*kotiles in the village of Leuchars, are certainly fufficient to fupply all the inhabitants \ and a greater number tends very much to deflrey the morals* and impair the health of the inhabitants. There fltte 90 looms in the pari(h> 34 of thefe in the Tiikge of Lea- chars. The weavers are employed in what is caUed boufehold work, of various kinds; but. chiefly in browa linens, fingle and double fail cloth, which they weave for the Dundee mer- chants. Several of them buy yarn, weave it, and fell the webs to merchants in Dundee and Cupar* This kind of manufa£ture is increafing, and it is thought will incieafe. There is one of the weavers famous for working all kinds of damaflc, and other table linens. It is thought the population wjli foon rife above the return made to Dr Webfter : there are 10 new Jioufes built in the village of Leuchars this fmn« mer, to be inhabited at Martinmafs next. A great Spirit for building has difcovered itfelf for feveral years paft, efpedallj in the village : though building is carried on at a great ex- pence, free ftones have not been found in the di(lri£l, except . on the fouthwelty by the fide of the river Eden, below a mod valuable furface : The proprietors are unwilling to break more of it than what is abfolutcly neceffary for their own ufc, and the ufe of their farms. The cait load of free (lones cofts 29, the driving and toll, 3d. On the weft fide of the prifli which is hilly, there are inexhauftible fields qf line hard blue whin ftones; thefe coft is for driYing the cart load, and 4d for quarrying. From the top of Lucklaw-hill, part of which

i

%f Leuchars* id in this diftrift^ there is a moft extenfive and deligl

. AivmUps and Djfiulvantages.-^lt is no fmall advantaj .this diftriA, that the river £den is navigable nearly to wh called the Inner-bri^e ; a little below which with the < currence and affiftance of feme* of the heritors, the ten have built upon the north bank oIF the MuUtree*burn» c manly caUed Mothry water, a wall perpendicular on the of the water, and have filled up the*groiind behind the ' in fuch a nianBer, as to niake it eafy for carts lo approach wall whete they may load and unload Xmall veilels : This*g opportunity of importing what the inhabitants (land in n of, and exporting' whatever they can fpare. Carriers fron Andrews to Dundee pa£^ and repafs twice every week thro , the village of Leuchars. Carriers from all the towns of ,fouth coaft, from Crail to the Ely, pafsonce in I4d^y8; ] baps oftener in fummer. Carriers fiH>m Dundee and St i

• drews to Edinburgh, going through Cupar the county to^ pafs wijthin a mile of the village. Thus, an eafy and regi

vintercourfe is maintained between all thofe diftantplac and what we wifli to fend, or defire to have from them, conveyed at the ordinary expence of carriage, according

• the weight.

The inhabitants of this diftri£l derive no fmall advants from tlie (hclUfiih in the river Eden* They gather cock and mufcles in their different feafons, fometimes eat them themfelves, fometimes prepare them with potatoes, or onior and the high flavoured juice that is obtained from the fiOies ^ the boiling with a little feafoning, makes a truly wnolefor . and delicious' meal.

There was eftabiifhed by mutual confent, in the year 179 a fociety calling themfelves the Brotherly Society of fuppoi

l5o6 Stati/ikal Ac/swm

in atiil abdtt Leuckirat and mtmbeit firom the oeif^boonag parifliesare admitted. > The laws of the focietji are pimi^ beoeToIent, and well meant. Every member on his admif- lioB pavtf 28 6d fter* and 8d qoarterly^ or &8^ iaauallf. The intention of the f«ml is to rdtcre the meiBbacs yAyi% woAtx iickisefs or the iofirratdes of old. age, or the widows and children of deoeafod menihers; who, it is pnqpefed, ne to receive 3 s 6d weekly, or ii a nurfe fliould be acceffiufi 4s (id. U any of the members die whofe fimriving rditioiis are .linable to defray tfaeir fi&eral expences, they are to ie« ceive L. 1 : 5 for that paipofe« (It is fubmitled, whether £»* cieties of this natare in diiisrebt parts of die cowitry» nay not be ofefuL) Their funds aUb enable them to bay qiaatftks <tf meal, coals, or any other neceffary article to divide amoagft them. There are. a fairs held in Leucharay. the one on the fccond WedneMay of April old ftyk, for the fale of ciA% Iheep, Kn^feed, fliocs, and all other kiads of snerehaat goodie the othef on the tfrird^Friday lof Oaober, old ftyie. The pit coal is at a great diftance, and from the throng in the ftmoicr feaibn, the fetching one cart containing 5 load, cofts f s adft and is the wodt of a long day for one aMin and a horfes. The proprietors of coal, an tbftatcniog to ratfe the piice.

jD^^.«— £pidc;pical difeafes are not known in this dif* frid, fince the great drain was cut* I have fcnowa 3 perfoni wftbin thefe 20 years, affe£kd with 8t Vttns's dance to a very high degree. It was deiired that a fiddle fiionld be plsf- ed on in ^e prefence of the affsAad perfon. It was not regular mu(ic that gave relief^ bat the ftriking of certaia ftrings, which the perfon , undev agitation, defired Aioatd be ftruck again. The zStOi was aftonifhing ; the perfon alfefi- #d, became quiet^ fat down, and in a little^ aftcd to be put

to

to bed» bat ftSl called for the perfon to play, till the feel that produced the agitation were abated.

Some years ago, the people in this parUh profefTed a re ous fcraple againft innoculating their children. They i now conpe «|> to<^ upon it b» a religions duty to adept pradice ; and not a few of them, when a lancet loaded \ matter was procured for them, innoculated their own < dren.. If the fcruple could &e got orer throughout all p of the country, how many lived would |e faye^ how m fore hearts to p^mut wo¥U k be tbe mnm under Go^ i presenting?

CiaraSNr rftbe PfeyAf.— — They arc in general fober itidttftrious ; regular attendants upon Divine worfbip oti i Lord's day ; and grateful to a kind providence for the blei& | they .enjoy. They arc remaritably fteady in Aeir atca i mems^ m tii^.lofaky to Ote Gracious Sonereigii an4 luj Oonftitation : 14 from this diftrifk ^nteisnl to fcfre ] i Mayefty >when> a late call for failora was made t^nroi^ 1 C0«»tic9»-**WiA what pkafure d& I islalk tkefis hf&s^ a^ ! kovMg ffeaii^wieb iMMnror-iB the Adrei cifcr, fbt Tucfclay 1 1 3d November 17951 the wicked and tseaioaaUe attack vat I span the facred , perfon of George' the IIL Thanks a praife wkhmywihok hcart^do i*o0er to the providence God, for prefemngf the K£& af thcfaeftof Kings, whol 1 ever been the father, of his people { and pray .moAr jcrvcnt | diat'the crawn naay Ipnf, i^ny long flourifli om his £ici 1 liead, uatU it pleaCe she uneiring Di^>Qfer of all events, ! eiown Our Gracious King with a crown that ihaH for ei 1 flsmrifli m glory, andtranrsf^ his earthly crown »o the be 1 of His Royal Highncfs George Prince of WaUs.

NUMBEI

6ot Statiftical Accoimt

NUMBER XXIIL PARISH OF MARY-KIRK.

(county of KINCARDINE.)

By the Rev, Mr Jomi BarifEt* .

jttttient and Modern Name.'^Situathn, and Extent

■nPHE antient name of this pari(h wa$ Aberluthnot»; or ai '^ it is more commonly* exprefTed in ancient records* Aberluthnet* This name it receiTed early, but at what par- ticular period, is not now. known* It feems, however, to b& of Gaelic etymology, and to bear an alluiion to thjc fit^adoa of. the village in the center oJF which the church ftajids^ U>. the fmall rivulet that paiTes by, and the lands that furround hi or perhaps fome memorable ^vent in this parcicaltf place, now buried in oblivion, has introduced the name, and communicated it to the church and pariih. -The eftate of Kirktown-hiU, which is now fcarcely knowq by any odier name, was formerly called the Kirk-lands of Aberlathoct, . as appears by ^ a charter for thefe lands, granted by Car« dinal Beaton, to David Barclay of Mathers, anno I54<H and' by another of confirmation from Queen Mary, aono 1543, by which were conveyed to him alfo, all the lands and acres of the village of Aberluthnet, the buigh

of Mary-kirk. ;

•f barony, weekly market, and yearly fair, together with Mi]l, MiiUlands, . and Bourn of Aberluthnot, lying on banks of the North-Eft rirer. Before the Reformation, I in honour of the V)^gin Mary, the parifh obtained a cha of nzmtf from Aberluchnot, to Mary-kirk, which it x i bears. This is evident from the above* ipentioned charter, i which there is not the lead mention of Mary-kirk. I ! bounded on the fouth by the North-£fk river, which fepan i it from the county of Angus, and pariih of Lioggie-Pert ; i the eaft and nordieaft, by St CyniQ, Garvock, and Lauren • kirk \ on the north and northweft, by Fordoun and Fett • cairn* It is about 36^ 45' north latitude, and 2® f' w ! longitude. Agreeable to Mr Garden's map and meafurenu ; of the county, anno 1774, the form of the pariih is irregul; . It comprehends 8191 Scots acres*, and its length and bread 1 are nearly equal. It is at the diftance of 4 Scots miles frc 1 Montrofe, and 6 from Brechin, — placed at the fouth exti • Hiity o£ an extenfive plain, gen^lly known by the How, hollow lands, of the Mearns ; and is fo exceedingly flat ai I level, that you leem, almoft in every direAion, gradually 1 defcend aa you approach the river. The only hills or eminei • cies in this pariih that feera greatly to variegate the fcene ai ! Kirktown-hill and Balmal^edie, which run, the one behin I the other, in a northeaft dire£lion, about 2 miles. Thei ' fouth extremities are at a little diilance from the village c ; Mary^kirk ; and as the diftance is increafed, they advance b a gradual elevation, until they terminate all at once by a fud den Hope, in what is called the Wide Open. This feparate them from the Garvock-hiils, which extend feveral miles ii the fame courfe, and are a boundary to the pariih* Vol. XVIII. 4H Vilhgi

* InfteaS of 8x91 Scots acres, Mr Garden fhould hare made it 7591, 1at< ^g mear«red 600 acres belotigiog to another pariih.

rittagi if MaryHrt.-^Kt^t fJie bsMib of liie Nocih^Eft

mer, and fomewhat more than half way, on the road leadfli|[

from Mootrofe to Laurence-kirk, Ikt the viUage of Mary-kirk;

^ and from whtch the traTeJler ^8 deli^ed with the agree*

^lUe appearance of the country. T« the north aBdiiortkv«ik»

«t the dtftance of fometitnes 7 or 6, 9 or ro miles» he ke-

holdstfae majeftic appearafice of the Grampian ivM>ttOtai»i

tlaitt^g their lofty heads to the clouds. Id an aimoft oppofitt

tiire£lion^ and boiinding the ^ariifa^ lie the hills of Cao-

.terland, Balmaleedte, Kirktown-hiil, and Garirocki lho«i^

not fo (lately as the former, yet as tikey are ctikirated to dtit

tops, they pleafe the eyc^ and iippeanr as <» many &fegittrdf»

appointed by providence, to iheltet the tiatties h^ow fromik

frequent ftorms thift come with gicat Tioieace from the etft

.Md fiortheaft. Here the number of gentieoieB's (oM^ ds

.variety of woods and IswiiSt the grateful fertility of the field«i

mtid the beautiful meanders of the met, toge^er with die

xz^enfhrenefs K)f the profped, snd tSie chwpaign appesriQ^

of the coumryi all ioYite the (Innger to trav«el from MoatrDfe

•to the north in this road, rather than in any other. The vil*

kge itfelfft has indeed no other oraamireiTts than its Jo6al fitiu*

, tion, its ferene air, its falubrious and ref ro(hiag ipitngs, and

j)lea£ini fields, to recommend it. It has not now» nor does it

appear to have hzd, in the memory of the oldeil man alive ia

theparifh, any weekly market or annual fair. Thenuodierof

the inhabitants it contains is 208, and their dwelling houfcsatc

49, It is fuppUed with mechanics almoft of every denominatioii)

except weavers and bakers. Befides, there are 3 ihop-ktepeit

who fell mod chirgs needful in the place ; and for the accoflM

modation of travelleis, there are a inns or pubhc^boofes ; the

houfes in general are in ailate of decay, the ftreet or<ftreeti

narrow and irregular. There are indeed a few new houfes

lately built ; which, though they may be convenic,nt to the

3 poflcJTori,

' ' peflcflbrsy do OfOft appmr to add to the regularity of the fl ! k i& tI|e1^efore hoped, that the proprietor of the Tillage, ^ \

' bat already been planning out a broader ftreet, will take ( i

' that a new one be rebuilt after a more approved model ; an

' a bridge over the North-Eik river at Mary-kirk, which is.i i

i itt contemplation, and to which a fubfcription is aire

* opened, ihoald take place, it would not only be an advant

( t0 the Tillage, but to the country in general. To.pron.

i d)is, not a few of the fiarmerd and inhabitants f6r a go6d m

I miles through the Meams, have already fubfcribed ; and i

i the heritors of this pari(b, and other gentlemen ^n the nei; i

1 bourhood who have an intereft in it, would with their :

i Guftomed public fpirit, lend their helping hand, this nece i

f ry and ufeful work could not fail to be foon and ea

I accoropliflied* This is the more to be wffhed, as wit

I a few years, 2 perfbns have k)ft their lives at the Fo :

i and Fcrry*boat ; and ipany other individuals, by not be!

1 acquainted with the proper-entry to the Ford, or by the in 1

i tention or ignorance of fome drivers of carriages, have bt

cxpoitd to the moft imminent danger, k is to be obferv( that the North-Eik, oft times in rapid torrents, not only < : fceads the Grampian hilh, overtops its banks, and inunda ! ^e valleys below, but with impetuous violence fweeps eve thing befoiie it j fo that ftrangera ought by no means^ to en( : raOily into this river*

Ecskfiq/lical Mftah^ — ^The narochtal church, which is fitoated in the middle of the village, has long been in a fta : of decay, and bears the marks of great antiquity. It is ( feet long, and 17 broad, tts walls are much funkintli earth, and the floor and area are in different places, at lea 4 feet below the burial ground on the outCde of the wai There if an ailci on the fuuth wall, oppoiite to the pulpit whei

4Hfil til

6 1ft Staiiftical Account

tbe Stf achans, Fofbefles, and Foulertons^ who were propm tors of Tborntoot have been buried. In this atle, bailt anno l6i5» there is a ftatelj monument to the memory of D. Elisa* beth ^rbes, lady of Thornton ; and of Sir James Strachan Bart, her hufband. Its {miliars, imi^s, and other derices, were finely cot, elegantly ornamented^ and highly finilhed. Near the centre of this m6nument is a Latin infaiption, but this is fo defaced by age, and by a burning, occafioned bj the Covenanters, about the time<of the Revolution, that it is not. now legible. On the ceiling of this aile, which is of oaky there is a numerous lift of honourable and ancient fainilies, (with their coats of arms beautifully painted,) who were con* neded with the family of Sir James Strachan of Thornton* In the eaft corner of this aile, there is a Font \ and on the north- eaft wall of the church, 2 prefTes near to eaqh other, in whick were preferred the facred utenfils. At the entry, ly the ftocks, almofi confumed by age \ and on the outfide of the chutch, ftrongly fixed to the wall, are the Joggs*. Netr the gate of the church-yard ftands a ftone, and tradition fayi, this was the crofs where the weekly market ftood. About 6 years ago the church received a new roof. By taking down the old one, which was oak, there was dcftroyed a ceiling of the fame wood, on which was beautifaUy carved a ccofsi a ^rown^ St Peter's keys, the armorials of bifliop ElphiogftoiUi and Dunbar, and feveral other eminent bifliops. There was alfo removed from the church an efcutcheon of the familT of Lord Halkerton, thought to be a fiiie painting* On the

watt

• Thcfc were. never appropriated by th€ church, as infttomcntsof i«nifl»^ mtnt and diigrace ; bat were made ufe of, when the weekly market and ao- liual fair ftood, to confine and puni(h thofe who had broken the peace, « Vfcd too much freedom with the pit>perty of others. The ftocki were dW for the feet, and the joggc for the neck of the oStaisXr ^ which be w» confioe4| at leaft, during the time of the fair. '

of Mary-kirk.

wall near the pulpit^ there is a monumeiity not much o mentedi ere£ied by Mr William Raic, in honour of hit iher and mother. On it is the following Latin infcriptioi

*' Hie in Domino requiefcunt parentes mei charifiimi, ^ Jacobus RaituSy paftor vere Evangelicus, qui prsefuit 1 ** ecclefiae, 2$ annis, fideliter, non fine magno emolumer *f tunc vttam cum morte commutaviti calend. Maiii a ^ 1642, setatis fuae 59 ; et dile£liffiraa ejus conjux, Ifab << Blackburne, qux obiit 19th Januiirii, anno 16379 aci *' fu^ 32.

« Parentavit Filius, W. R.

' On the fame wall, on the other fide of, and a little m 1 temoved from the pulpit, is a tomb, the burial place of Barclays of Johnfton and Balmakewan } and the only th that Can be faid of it; is* that it has a too near communicat : with the church, , has its entry through it, and is only fepai 1 ed from it, by an old door. Many of the inhabitants of I parifh, as well as the heritors, claim the right of burial the floor of the church ; and it would be accounted no i : unjuft and cruel to depriye them of thi^ tight, than of ; inheritance left them by their fathers. Befides the eftabli I ed church, there are 3 different places of worfliip ia the ] riih. In Luthermoor, there is one for the Seceders. ! Sauchie bum, another for the Bereans *, and in the irillage Mary-kirk, a third for the Independants 9 ^^^ which, are to I tably decent, and abundantly fufficient to contain the C( gregations. To thefe places, the diflenters above-named, this and the neighbouring parifhes, rtfort. home years a{; there was in Luthermoor, a chaptl for the Scots Epifcop lians, but of late the chapel and ground belonging to have been fold offj and the congregation^ who Mrere

' pesTceab

6t4 Statyikal Agcount

peaceaUe, and dtcenti ailereblf, hun fcmo^rod to Lmu rence-kirk, where they bare att elq^t and ftateiy place of worfiiip, which waa let on foot, ,and endowed by JU&vd Gav^ denfton. About 24 years ago, and for feveral years after, a very great alienation of affe&ion, and conlequently a depar* ture from the true fpirit of Chriftianity took place. Sinct that time it is happily remoTed» by the increaing moderation of this feveral teachers of religion. The tide of paffion and prejttdiee, which formerly imitated the minds of many, it entirely gone ; and a perfcft harmony, and good underftand* ing among thofe who are candidates for the £ime happme^ andprpfeffors of the fame reKgion, (though they msy differ % little in their fentiments of it,) feem now to have fucceeded*

Man/i. ^Tht manfe lies fonth of the chiireh, in. a hdlow bdow it, and fome of the offices form a part of the church^ yard wall;' and may be faid to be the only part of it now ftanding. The manfe was built in 1 732, and received repara- tions in i775> that produced no great advantage to the beri* tors or minifter y and fince that time, he has been put to con* (iderable ^xpence to redder it habitable. At prefent it ilanda in great need of being repaired. It is hoped, however, that the heritors, who are all of them men of opulence, public fpirit, juftice and humanity, will fpeedily caft an eye to the church, die manfe, and offices. The prefent incumbent ta the third Frcfbyterian , minifter fince the Revolution. He was fettled here in 177 ft by a prelentation from his father^ '.who bought the patronage from the mafters of the King's College at Aberdeen, about the year 1765} who at the fame time fold off all their other patronages* The patron is Major Gardeo, who fucoeeded to all Lord Gardenilon's ef« UtCi, in this, and the parifb of Laurencekirk ^ and confe*

cpiently

ff MaryMrk. i

^^^J to the ftftttonage, ^prUch was fold by the ineun to hU Lordibipi not long before hts death.

Glebe.-^Tbc glebe confifts of a little more than 4 acn k cooitder«bk dtftaoce from the manfe. The ftipend of ) [ kiilc from 1^50^ to 17949 was annuatty 4 chalders of vit ttnd L. 39 : 3 : 4 fterling kt money. As the mailers of E ] CoUhgCf Old Aberdeen, claim the teinds of die pari , procefft of 9ugmefit«tton was commenced againft ther the Covrt of Teinds, in 1786, wtiich they defended great cbftinacy^ until I794» when the minifter obtained the Lords of Council and Seffion, the Commiffione Xeinds, a •docreec <^ modification and locality, for an : flKmacion to his ftipend, of 3 chalders t>f vidinal, •}• be , meal, and L. 10 Scots, for Gonupmiion elements. But ! augmentation, moderate indeed as ft b, his opponents < to <i«arvel witSi i md threaten an appeal to the Hovfe off : They draw from tUs parMh* by thefar converfion of yi£ : .^rom the heyitors> upwards oif L.473 ft^hngf wfaxc -more than twiee the minifter's old and new ftipend put i \ Attn

&ri6o0A— About 7 years ago, there was a new fchooi ! fcho9l-hottfe ere&ed by the heritors 1 At old fchooi b ruinous and ill-placed, abore the arch of the tomb of J< I Aon. The fchoolmafter's falary is L.^iotio fterling, 1 L. 2 s B as clerk to the Kirk Seflion, and Caldham's fund, I 'His other perquifites as fchoolmafter are very inconfidera 1 for proclamations, as 6d *, baptifms, lod ^ teaching £u| by the qustrter^ ts 6d ^ Arithmetic, 2S ; Latin, 2s 6d. fummer there are but few fcholars, in wbter, the nuni may be about 30. Befidcs, there are 2 other fchoolmall in the parifb> who teach Reading, Writing, and Arithmei

6i6 Stati/iical Account

but hare no bXtsy, and are paid only by tkofe«who employ themL

Pooin — ^The number of poor frequently tncreafes and dimi« \

ni&'es i but at prefent, there are 25 upon die poor's lift. A good many years ago, Robert Perie, a refpe^able farmer» born in this pariih bequeathed 400 merks Scots to the poor of this parifli* Some fmall legacies, donations, and favings* given and eftabliihed, when the neceflaries of life were much cheaper than at prefent, have made up L. 5:7 fterling^ which, added to Perie's fund, amounts to L. 79:4:^fter» Belides, there are L. 3000 merks Scots, left by Mr George Kdith, formerly proprietor of Caldham, for pious uJEte, and to keep in repair, a bridge ov^ Luther-water at Caldham i tbue intereft of which is generally employed in fmdl dona- tions to decayed inhabitants, by an application having been nude to the heritors. The weekly colle£kions are at an ave- rage about 58, and with about L. 3 fterling, colle&ed when the facrament is difpenfed) will amount to L. 1$ fter. per amwm^ There, is a gallery built in the church, for the benefit of the poor, which yields little above L. i fter. The greateft: part of the weekly colle£lions are divided among the moft necef- fitous poor every week, immediately after difmiffing the coa* gregation \ ;ind others are occafionally fupi^ied with what is over* The money derived from the a mort^cloths amounts t(^ very little. There are generally no penalties given by church delinquents; for they take care to get themfelves nooCed foon enough to prevent it; and we do not wi(h for money in this way to fupport the poor, if it could poflibly be obtained . any other way mote honourable and humane. Conlidenng the badne(s of the church, it is amazing that the mihifter has any one to hear him on the Sujiday, but the fdboolmafter, and the kirk officer^ who are oUiged to attend.

K

of Mary^kirk. \

by yirtue o£ thei^ refpe£life offices; or tliat thefe Ibould any thing ftated for weekly coUe£lion9. .

' uHr^ C//i^il^.«— The air here is tolerably dry, mtld temperate, and the climate falubrious. Though the groi is very flat and level, yet there are no ftationary difeafes cafioned by noxious vapours, arifing from ftagnated wat* We have no lakes; no mofles; or if in former times tl have beea any, they are now all drained and exhaafted. abAoft every part of the'parifli there are rivers, rivulets, \ brooks to carry off the rains that ly upon the ground, toget with the waters emitted from the fprings. The high mo^ tains at a diftance, and the lower hills that bound us on northeafl, attract the clouds above, before and behind Did the rains that fall upon them, defcend fo frequently up our hollow grounds,* they would render our lives comfortlc and our fields, pools of water. We fometimes' in what* think dry weather, envy our neighbours that live neareft 1 ' hills, for the feafonable and refrjsfhing (bowers we fee th^ receive : but, perhaps, had we mt)re difccrnmcnt, wc woi greatly rejoice that they have not yet come to us, as t ground is not fit to receive them. When epidemic diftci pers invade any of the neighbouring parifiies, and now ai then cut off feveral of the inhabitants, they ftldom penetra our boundary ; or if they do, their attacks are lefs Violent ai deflru£tive. In (Iiort, the climate here is fo gdod, that fome years, there have riot been above 7 .or 8 pcrfons burit in this church-yard; and rtoft of thcfc old people, worn 01 by age aftd infirmities.^ InocuJatipn docs not univerfally pn vail, though feveral attempts have been made to render general ; yet very few children die of the fmall-pox. Thbug there are not many inftances of great longevity, yet there ai ftveral perfons now alive, above 80. About 3 years ago^ Vol. XVIII. 4 1 ma

I

ii% , StatffiUal 4ccount

man died h^re aged 103 years. An inftanceof the mildoefa of the climate is appaKent from the little quantity of fnow that commonly falls here, and from its ihort continuance oq the ground* In 178a, N^hile the Grampian hills were deeply covered with fnow, for the fpace of 8 or 10 days, the people in this neighbourhood were bufily employed in cutting down^ |^

-i^nd gsi;thering their corns; and it is to be obfcrved, that it vaa ia^ a great ineafure owing to- this very circumdancet :^t inany poor individuals were kept alive. Add to this^ that the bqi^nty of government, 'and the great care taken by ^the heritors, to ^eep a good part of tbeir grain for the con^ fumption of th^ pari(h, and their timely interpofition in autho-» riling the Kirk SefliQU, frqm the poor's funds, to buy up and ' i^\^ at an tender price, (not abpve is the peck,) what victual ^e moft nec^flitous of the inhabitants needed, put this pa<« ri.ih (ill as the times were), in a much better (itu^tion thac^ pipft of t^i^ Qeighbputing parilhe^.

P<^«Ai/wiJ.--rThe amount of Pr Wfbftcr's lift of inhabil- ^otsin 1755* was i28q.

Jn I774i Mr Garden .ftatcd, probably with Icfs accuracy, the number of fo\ils to be io3o ; Cnce that time^ it is evident,^ -^hey have been increafing conGderably, by the Ud^that 11^ hereto fubjoined. The increafe can^eafily be accouiitcd For, ^y a^erdng, that the?e were not fo many families in Luther- inopr then, as there are at prefent. At that time, there were; only a few hoyfes in it, belonging to a fmaU number of T^uars; but now it is prefumed, th^re are more familiea (cattered oyer it, than there are families in the village of iMary-ki^k^ It was then only a moor, all CQvered over with )ieatb ; but now, moft part of it, is either corn ground, or planted with trees rand although the foil is cold, fpungy^ |nd i|yc^;| yet by trenching, draiixin^^ inclqfing,. and planting

irccB, the place is not only rendered pkafant to the but even beneficial and friendly to (he health of the habitants. Several Qther-houfes have been built in the pi £nce that period. We cannot give an exadl lift of bapti as many parents are not fond of the expcnce of enrolling i children's nances in the lift of inhabitants ; and for b married^ and having a poor friend departed this life^ thinly they Ihould rather receive fome reward and com fation, than pay a penalty. The minifter nude out an e lift in 1793> when the members amounted to 1481. ^which it appears that there is an incrcafe from Mr Garc number in 74, of. 401 ; and from'Dr Webfter's in I (which was probably nearer the truths) of 201 •

But the ftate of the population will be be^er underftoo the following Table.

PcpuIattM Table of the Parl/h of Mary^lurk.

Population in I793>— I48i«

Males below lO, — i8a Females below 10, — 1J3

From 10 to 20,-^151 From 10 to 20,-140

From 20 to 30, — 108 From 20 to 30,---i3($

.From 30 to 40, — 85 From 30 to 40,— 124-

From 40 to 50, — 73 From 40 to 50,— —76 J

t'rt)m 50 to 60,-— 57 From 50 to 60, 67

Prom 60 to 70, — 47 From 60 to 70,—- ,-49

From 70 to 80,— 14 From 70 to 8oi— **I9

'From 8o'to 86,-^-7 From 8q to 86,— —4.

724

7S7T9t.i

By this Tabki it appears that the Fe^nales exceed the A! by 33* There We 344 habitabl«.hMi«€ io tUt pariib.

<4«

StA^ftical Account

Lift of the DefignaiiMS of Heads of Families and Mechamcs.

Minifters Schoolmaders Farmerd Millars * Merchants

4

3

68

6

S

Tamers Flax-dreflers Gardiners Dyfters

3

3 6

2

Joiners, cart, and plough-

wrights Shoemakers . Blackfmiths Married fcrfants ,. - Mafon^ - -

Taylors Weavers ^ - Ipn and public houfe- keep

crs

8

ID

8 88

12

7 8

Small tenants and widows 90

Diffetaers.^ Scots Epifcopals - li Indepcndants - '^

Bereans and Scccdew not exa£Uy known, but fap- . pofed not to exceed ,130

m B. The other inhabitants are of the * Eftablilbed church.

Proprietors y Rents.^The number of heritors in ihcpariA if 10, and only one at prcfcnt reGdes in it. The valued rent is L.6060 Scots; the real rent is nearly L.3300 ftcriing. fa the courfe of 20 years, the parifh has increafed much in i^* rife of rents, improvement, and cultivation. During this ftort periodi all the eftates in it have been fold, except 3, to new proprietors ; and a good many of the farms have got new tenants. The fame caufes may have concurred to cffcSnatc thefe alterations here, which have taken place in other pariln«9 of Scotland. The eftates were bought at a time when tlicrc was no demand for land ; but were they now in the marketi they certainly wouldfcU at a much higher price.

f

fftritir''

^f Mary-kirk.

Heritors. '

Antony Lord Halkerton« Earl

of Kintore, f Lord Arbuthnoti

Sir Alexander Ramfay^

t Sir John Wifliart Belches, t Thopias Gillies, Eiqr; f Major Garden,

William Adams, Efqr; t Alexandei; Smith, Efqr; f Alexander Gafdeoer, Efqr ; + Patrick CruikOiank, Efqr; The new Heritprsare marked thus

EftMies.

Inglismaldie, Newton,

maleedie. Hatton.

E. and W. Pitgarvic8,Dr ly-gair, Hofpital, Shic

Gofeilie.

Balmakewan, Caldbam^

Thornton, Gallow-hillo I

New Thornton. '

Balmakellie.

Kirktown-hilL

Balmano. t-

So;/.— The foil here, as in all cither pariihes, is Tarl ^hc lands that ly neafeft the banks of the North-E{k, < i 4ry bottom, are efteemed bcft \ and are fure, almoft in e^ i feafon, to produce the earUeft crops. In fonie places, I foil is light, and much inclined to the nature of fand. other places, bordering on the river, it is deep and fert I and has much the appearance of an improved loatti. In I north and northweft part of the parifli, it is mooriOi, and I a cold till, and clay bottom } which in many places, ly i 10 inches below the furface. But it the northeaft, on i ikirts of the hills, and in th6 vallies below, it is a deep c which^ when fufficiently drained, manure4» andcultivad will produce very ^ood crops of wheat and barley. *] center of the pariih, in difiefent places, partakes of the i ture of one or other of thefe foils ; and in the proper cuiti

t:

6ii Statijlical Accouni

tion of which the farmer is fure to reap the pl^afute and a<i« vantage*.

Cultivation. — Agriculture here, within the courfe of 25 years, has experienced' a very great change $ and is now ar^ rived at no fmall degree of perfedion. It is generally owing tqfiit to want of money than fkill, that farmers do not raife good crops, and al^rays adapt their crops, to the natare, fi^ tuation, and improvement of the foil. The prefent mode of farnrHng, and fuccei&on of crops, vary according to the nature of the foil, the tafte and capacity of the farmer* Here they f, generally fow wheat and muihlie, but more of barley, Chefter bear, oats, and.peafes nor do they negle£^ the culture of turnips; and if the foil be fufficiently dry, they are fure to

. increaiib

* The ^rtat variety of foils that appear in difierent phoes of this pariib| and not only in the (ame farm, but in the fame field, might be rendered l)y J much labour and induflry, of the greateft advantage to the.cuitiTator} <i they are manifeftly adapted to the great variety of feeds that are, aad oofbt to be f«wn : — fome of which, require a light, others a grofs earth, or an in* tcrmediate foil :— -ibme are indeed io fandy and Ught, that all the jnices which are lodged in them by the air, immediately evaporate ; and the corn that requires a Arong nutriment, could never fubfift in fuch a fitaatWn. To remedy which, an intermixture of clay or rich earth, is abfolntely neceiSary. On the contrary, ther|^ are other foils fo unpleafant; £0. tougk and clayef, that fcarce any feed can penetrate through them. To remedy this, modi ploughing and draining, (and and lime, and a compoft of dung, with earth of a contrary nature, will operate abo?e defcription.. There are othen again, that preferve a medium between thefe two extremes, and are qualiBed for different productions, as they more or lefs correfpond to the nature of fand or clay. Wheat, for inftanqe, in this country, never thrives bat in a lidi and humid foU, which is very fat and marfhy; and barley, Chefter bear, aod •ats, though they delfght in a fandy foil, yet they never fail to profper io the richeft ; if fufficiently covered over, with weU pulverized earth,* in a dry fcafoB.

. of Mary^kirk. 623

increafe the quantity. One fourth of a farm is commonly (own with graf$ feeds^ and laid^out for hay and pafture. Another fourth conGils of fummer fallow, and green crops ; fuch as turnips, m^{hlIe, peafe, and potatoes. The other half of tho farm is fown with corn in any mode that may appear mod be- neficial to the farmer. Little lintfeed is fown except for fami- ly ufe, unlcfs the farmers mean to have wheat after it ; and, in that cafe, they dung and lime well. In preparing for any cropthat has a foil with a wet bottom, they think it neccflary to drain it by every poilible means ; fo that any water ifTuing from the ground, or rain water on the furface, may gently run off with the lead damage to the foil or manure. In almoft every farm, there arc to be found all the neceflary :^nd modern implements of hu(bandry, fuch as diflferent ploughs for Tight and deep foil, carts proper for vi^^ual, dung, flones, lime and wood,— drag and light harrows, rol- lers, fanners, &c. No limc-ftone quarries have as yet been ^ifcovered* Lime 1$ to be procured at the diftance of 4 or 5 miles ;. but mod people bring it from a greater didance, from ead Mathers,' which is about 7 or 8 miles ^ the^price is the fame, is rod per boll, lime-fbells; but they think it of a preferable quality. The farmers have fucceedcH well in their attempts, to improve the breed of work horfes^ with which tihey not only fupply themfelves, but ^rc enabled to bring what they do not dand in need of to market : but the breed of black cattle has been lefs the objeft of their attention j and the reafon they give for it is, that weighty cattle dedroy their gr^s fields, much more than fmall cattle; flieep are entire-; ly gone, uqlcfs a few fed and fold to the butcher, or kept for family life. The farms are prop^ly docked with black caule, in proportion to the extent of each farm. Part of the rent ia ' commonly paid in vi£luah Services are fometimes ctmtrafted for in the leafes, l)ut ar^ npt rigidly exa^ed. Many of the I tenants

€24 Stati/lical Account

tenants, in their leafes, are bound to carry all their grindaUe corn to fome particular mill, and to pay certain different rates for grinding it, viz. aboil for 16, 21, 24 bolls. The far- mery or the mill-mailer on that account, ps^ys to the heritor a high rent for his mill, and the other tenants ftriTe to hare as little grindable corn as poffible. By this means, he is in- jured, and they complain that they are not allowed to grind at any mill what quantity of viAual they pleafe* This has been the occaGon of very ferious contefts before the^'CSvil Court ; both difagreeing about, and explaining in their own way, the terms of the contra£t. Formerly, the tenants ploughed with oxen, as well as horfes ; but now the former are entirely laid afidc, unlefs in a few farms, where they oc- * cafionally employ them in the plough, wain, or drag-harrow. The farmers pay for their land in this parifh, from 5s, los, 12$, 15$, to 25s, 30s, and'40s, per acre; but the laft high prices ate only given about Mary-kirk, by thofe who have other employments befides their farm, or on account of an inn, a meal and barley mill. There ar# 6 miHs in the parifh; 3 on Luther-water, and 3 on the North Eflc, Two of them have all the machinery neceflary for barley. We have no manu- fa£l«ires of any kind ; but we expe£l, that when tlie bridge is erefted, we {hall have every thing fet to right ; and ftrong motives to excite out induftry. The tenant? have inclofcd very little of their farms, unlefs here and there a field or two for theirown accommodation and convenience. And the reafon tliey give is, that they have (hort leafes, many of them not above 19 years; for this is the longed period now commonly given. The heritors have all the grounds furirounding their manfion houfes regularly and neatly inclofed, with a (lone or earth dyke, ditch, and quick fet hedge ; and the proprietor of Bal make wan has lately furrounded all his farm with an tartli and ftone dyke; but the fields on the water-fide near

his

tif Mary^lArk.

6^5

his bottfei he has inclofed with a done wall, taken from a free-ftone quarry, lately difcovercd onhb owneftate; and which promifes to be an obje^ defenring his attention. It was formerly obferved, that the real rent of the parifli is at prefent not below L.3300 fterling, and that the number of 'farms contained in it amounts tp 68* It is therefore pro« pofed by the following table, t6 give a tolerably juft, though Dot an entirely exaA ftatement of the different rents paid bji each of thefe 68 tenants.

Tenants, Rentii

1 L. 240

X , 200

2 at 120=240 I xoo I . 90 X 89 5 at 60=300

5 at SS==^75

5 at 50=250

10 at 45=45<>

10 ^t 38=380

10 at 30=360

5 at 29=145

6 at 25 = 150 5 at 20=ipo

rabU.

Acres in the pariih 7591

Wood, - 2100

Arable moor pafture, 549C Which at 1 2s per acre, will amount to L. 3294: 2 fter* to which add only £.5:18 iter* and it will makeup the entire fum of L.3300 fter. the real rent.

The return upon the acre,* comprehending the whole ara^ ble ground in the parifli, does not exceed 5 boll^.

^8 !«• 3,300

In die prefent year 1 79 5, the fpriog was bad, and fo rainy^

that the fowing of the greater part of the oats was put off

VoJuXVIII^ 4K; vndl

J6^p Statifiicffi Ac€ount

ttntiUhe've^y end of April, or the bcgianuig of May; and throughout the fummer ^t was the geoeval opinioiii that this ^op would be the lateft ever knowa hcrci eveii later than that qi 1782. In the end of Augufti howerer, ai^ till the middle gf Sept,ember, the weather became exceedingly mild and warmi and of courCci the filling and ripening pf the gcw\^ was very much acceleraud» Soon after this, a ytxj ^reat froft took |dace in the night, which bladed the tops of the potatoes, and had fudh influence upon die ftaad- ing cotn, (which was not completely filled,) that it now feemed nccefTafy to cut it down with all convenient tptcd* Before the pth of Odober, nearly one half o£ the oop was i

cut down. From that period, to the ^th, it rained with \

very little interruption. This occafioned a very great fpring- iog of the vi£iual cut down, and remaining in the fields* On the a4th, the rain was fucceeded bya violent ftorm of vind, :iyhich it is faid, has fliaken \n many places a confide* rable part of the ftanding crop. It will therefore be'' extreme* ly noceflary for gentlemen,- who are entrufted with the police of the country^ to take care that no vi£lual be lent abroad, until they are fujre there is a quantity at homci fiiffiddnt to iupi^y the den;iands and necefiities of th^ infaalntants. By the former lift of wood, it is evident, this parifh is well planted and ornamented with it* The Earl of Kintore, it is faid, has at^ Inglismaldie, his family feat, the feat of the Lord Halkertons, and in other parts of his eftate in this pa- «ilh, no Icfs than 1 500 acres, and that he draws by the (ale of his wood at Inglismaldie alone, upi^ards of L. 1000^ annum. Befides, the other heritors have ph(nted.around their manfion houies, and on moors, a hrge quantity of wood^ which ferves not only to beautify the country, but will in a little time, bolh accommodate the inhabitants, and bring great f ro&t to themfelves* Mr Gillies of Balmakcwah, the only

heritor

beritoF now refidis^g in the parifli, from his fine nurfe Luther bridge-, has planted feme fears ago, no lefs than wcttWf on a moor, near the poft road from Brechin to ] lence-kirk ; (wrhich road pafies through the center of the rifli,) and a gveat quantity more, to ornament his place, decorate the banks of the Luther, and North^Eflc. At Ha alfo, there fs a plantation of about lOo acres, "the varSet trees planted in this pariOi, is as follows, firs, oaks, beec aflies,. eln\|, birches, chefnuts, walnuts, larches, pines, S and American fprace, alders, willows, planes, and limes

ItiaJjf Fiiwff Rivers, Bridges, Rivulets. — ^There ar< public roads in this pariih ; the reft are private roads', inte ed to accommodate the pariOiioners to church, milns, ahd i bouring markets* The 3 public roads are finely 'fini(he4) '* kept in proper repair hj ftatute labour *• The turnpike-ri from Brechin to the ^North-Eik bridge at Ingfismaldi^; 1 only pafies throo^ a pleafant country, adorned with eleg! feats, and beautiful landfcapesj btt the traveller is pleal with the windioga of the North-£ik, and of the Krook a Weft Walter defcending into it : and as he agpttachcB towa) it8liaiik&, it travels with tiim as a roajeftie and entertaini companion before the venerable houfe of InglismaTdie. He the'woodd, the fields, the lawns, the motion of the xyft and the trecfs jutting out of the rocky-cliffs that embelKfii i banks, decorate the fcene : but when he comes to the brid] itfelf, and at*a time when he is unwilling to part with much beauty, ;how is he aftonifliedlo have it increafed ! nature's fine images can entertain and captivate his imagin:

4 K 2 » tioi

* The pnbitc are much indebted to Sir Alexander Ram&y, Bart«. fori) former public fpirited cxe^rt^ss, in pbuuiing put, eflabUHuftgi and keepk ' in repair, roads and bridges.

42% SMtiJlical Account

tion, here now muft be ftop» and be rayiflied with beantksj which we cannot^paint, and which it is ipipoffibk to defcribe* The public road from thi$ bridge to the bridge of Dy, over the Grampian hills^ runs in a ftraight line to the north» by die gate of Inglismaldie* From the faihe gate in a noitheaft &* region, ts the poft road .to Laurence*kirk. TraTelUng tEis way in the dark (hade^ dirough the wodds> and not fir from the gate itfelf^ is Rofe-hill, the place that is faid to have given title to the ddeft foti of the Earl of North-£(k, as the river h feems, did to his father *• In getting through the wooda of Inglismaldie, there is a fine ppening before vls, znd by turn- ing a little to the eaft, with the wood on our rigbt hand» by gradual defcent, we approach I^uther water $ over which there is a ftately bridge of one arch^ the ftones of which are {aid to contain much iron ore. Here there is a moft delightful land- fcape. The North-'Eik defcending to the eafi, the Ludier to the fouthy the Black burn twifting itfelf into the Luther^ and the Luther after it has performed its various evolutions through its gently Hoping banks^ emptying itfelf with its new afibciate the Bhck burnf ^ into the larger river. Befides too, at and above the br^e, the wind perfumes you, from the high towering birch, hanging over the edge of the ftream on tbe one fide, and the fweet fcented niirfery on the other fide of Luther* Luther is a fmall, butpleafant river, abounding in excellent trouts. Its banks are level and ever green* It takes it rife in the Grampian hills, and pariih of Fordoon, az^d p^ffe^ through that of Laurence-kirk, where it receives a

rich

* In aMdeat times, the Earls of North-£(k were proprietors of a grwt extent of growid, on both fides of the nTer.

f The Black burn is a large rinxlet delceniliBg through the voods. wad in S fine forn, paiCng behind the houfe of U^fismaldle, adds |;rcat beaoty tm the phic9*

of MaryMrL i

lich (apply of water, from 3 or 4 pleafant brooks and mn It enters this parifli, near the barn of Johnfton, andfepai both at the bridge and village of Laurence-kirL Run: nearly through the center of the parifh^ it trayerfes the Ic hnds, the diftance of 7 or 8 miles ; and after having tui 2 mills*, and pafled under 2 bridges f, it divides the e(] of Inglismaldie and Balmakewan, before it defcends intc North*£ik.

In a parifli fo hollow and level as this, it can fcarcel cxpeAed that there fhould t)e found any eztenfive views ;

* The mills alluded to, are Thornton, Bams, and Luther ; (bme < which, during the froft laft winter, (that was fappofed greater and of 1 duration ^au any ercr remembered,) was always employed in grinding vi while the other mills, on the Korth-Eflc, (tiz. Bridge-mill, Mary and Spear-mill,} were for t long time ftopt, by reafon of the violence < ftoft.

t The bridges arr Luther formerly mentioned, and Caldham. Tb was eroded in 1783. It conHfts of $ arches, and (lands on the public Ibmewhat lefsithan half way between Mary-kirk and Fcttercaim. A bridge, there is an extenfiTe landscape, and p<£hirefque appearance c tirer, meandrtng among the meadows, and like a fport-man^s fine p( does not feem fatigued. It is alio to be obferred, tlut the road from ] kirk to Fettercaim, is well made and finiftied ; and from the variety of g men's feats that may be feen from it, muft give no ^ittle entertainment ttvvelier. Ktrktown-hill, Balmano, Hatton,' Balmakcwan, and Gallero a circle about him, and indofe him on every fide. Leaving this vie pailcs between the planting of Hatton and Balmakewan, till he cro right angles, the road from Luther-bridge, to L^urence-kirk. He the ceeds in a ftraight line, by the bridge of Caldham, through a large est wood, till the road is terminated by the boundary of the parilh, at Returning to the poU, where the two roads crofsone another; and p his right hand to the planting of Hatton, he proceeds in a ftraight Line Luther on his left, and almoft always in his view,' until! he com^s with tie more than half a mile of Laurenccrkirk, where he has a fine view cd| and the road much lengthened by a dtfagreeable tuuiing.

6^0 Stati/iical ^(^Qunt

yet at.not the diftance pf a mile from the yillage of Mary-kirk, there is a moft extenfive profpedl*^ Looking to the weft, through the hollow of Strathmore, in a clear day, you caa fee Lord PriTy Seal's Obfervatory at Belmount caft^e -, and cafting your eye (till farther, fome appearance of hills in the neighbourhood of Stirllngi at the diftance perhaps of 64 miles. * In this parifh, there are no lefs than 9 rivulets, or brooks^ and one river that defcend into and form a jun£Uon with the North-£lk« There^ is no place where the inhabitants are bet* ter fupplied with good water than here. The ipririg and mi« neral waters are accounted excellent* In and about the vil* lage of Mary-kirk, there are no lefs than 3 fpting-wells* Two of them are in Mary-mill bank, and both perhaps equal in quality ; but that which is called Lady-banks-well| (con- cerning which, many fabulous ftories have been related,} i^ h eftcemed beft^ on account no doubt of its larger ftream. 1 ' Certain it is/ however, that this ^atcf is uncommonly refrcfh- 1 ing and pleafant to the tafte. ' In fevers, when patients de- c cline all other kinds of drink, they call for Lady-banks-water^ l- and are refrefhed by it ; and fometimes it happens, that the qiiaa« f '| ticy they take, is- fome way or other inftrumental in removing^ the fever. At Balmaleedie, not far from the village, there is a well of the chalybeate kind ; and nearer to Mary-kirk, on the edge of the Burn, there is another, both much impreg* | nated with mineral fubftance ; and which have been not a lit- . tie charaderifed and ifecommended by phyficiaas of great eminence. The foritier, which is fuppofed lighteft, has been for fome years quite neglefted ; and the latter, for fcorbutit diforders, and chronical diftempers, has been much reforted to, by the inhabitants of the village ; and it is believed, not % few have received from \i great benefit. There is alfo at Bal« maoo, a fine fpring-well, called St John 's-well, which in an- tient times, was held' in great eftimation. Numbers vrho 2 thought

of Maty-kirk. 6yi

thought Its waters of z fanative quality^ brought their tickeiy childrea to be waihed in its dream. Its water was likcwtfe thought a fovereign remedy for fore eyes^ which by frequent wa(hing, was fuppofed to cure them. To (how their gratitude to the Samt, and that he might be propitious to continue the yirtues of the waters, they put into the well prefents, not in- deed of any great value, or fuch as would have been of the leaft iervice to him, if he had ftood in need of money, but fuch as they conceived, the good and merciful Apoftle, who did not delight in coftjy dblations, could not fail to accept*^.

jintrquiii€s»^^The antiquities of this pariih are te^Jn num« her, and of no great importance. - It is, howevtr, to be ob- ferved, that the traditions which bid faireft to claim the title of antiquity ate thefe.v A few years ago, when part of the, church was to be rebuilt, there were found in the heart of the wall, a few ftones about 6 feet long. The ftones wore in the form of a coffin. One' of them was carved round the rdge ; had the imprcfik)h of a large broad fword, fufpended at ho great diftaiice from the. top, the whole length of the ftone. OppoGtc to this'fword, was engraved a figure of an eliptlc lorn^, from which prbceeded a lance or fpear, nearly the fame length* ' Thefe ftones, it is fuppofed, were taken from

fome

* The pteftottgcMtatty g^ten,»were pins, needles, and rags taken from their 4oaths. Thi» may potnt omt the ibperflttiQn of thoie times ; and many , no do«bt» wiU boaft mnch, that they are born m a more enlightened age i but while they fflay be entertained with the inlignificant gifts of their anccAors, let them take care, that they theip^lves be not among the number'of thofe, - who render to God.no retarns for benefits received ; or if they do,, make it obrious by their condiiA, that they pay little or no regvd either to his po^- tiveor moral precepts. Soch a conduct in the eye of reafoo, will bo ac- counted as ridiculous as the oiTcricga pin, a needle, or a rag in Cicri6ce.

631 Slati/iical Account

fome other btirial ground; and all we can conje£lure aboat them is^ that they have been placed in the wall when the church was firft built, or afterwards when the wall might have been repaired. Not far from the churchy is a farm cal- led Spear-mill, ^hich is faid to have derived its name from a battle having been fought there with fpears*. The ftory re- lated of the battle is this. The Nbrth-£(k by a great flood had fwept away the mill of Canterland at Kinnardie. The proprietor of Canterland and Balmaleedie, not knowing where to build another, requefted of the proprietor of Aberlathnet^ that he would allow him to carry the miU-dam, taken from the NprtL-Eiky and the Bum of Aberluthnet, after turning his mill a little farther towards the eaft, uQtil both in one current reached his property. This the proprietor of Aber- luthnet abfolutely refufed, and the other ftrenuoufly inCfted f that it Ihould be done by force, if he would not confent to it. In a night or two after, the proprietor of Canterland caofed a ftrong oxen-plough draw a line from the Bum and mill- dam, in the diredion he wiQied the water to run i and after • this, forthwitli fet his people to work, to complete what he f hid already begun. The proprietor of Aberluthnet being in- formed of this, fpeedily aflembled his vailals and depend- ents, and with great violence attacked his opponent, .who was well prepared to receive him, near the place where the mill now ftands. Both (ides joined battle } they fought with fpears, and after a bloody conflid, the proprietor of Aber- luthnet was defeated, the mill-dam extended, and the mill itfelf built where it prefently is* After the battle> it isCaid^

they

* On diflerent pitts of this farm^ ievcral ftone coffinf, and the b«ies of dead bodies have been found ; and it is fiippofed* the floncf in the thnich ^nrall might have been taken from thence ; and that the fboe moSt oro* mentedt might belong to fome leader or commander thatfeil in battk.

1

^ MaryAlri. ^33

they buried their dead on thcfarm of Spear- mill. ' Bat when this happened none can precifely telU This farm is bound- ed on the eaft by the Burn of Inglis-den. The Burn alfo bounds the pariih, and divides it from St Cyi us. On this farm, it is likewife faid, a bloody battle was fought between the Engliih and the Scots ; — ^that the Englifb general was flain^ and no doubt they would add diat the Scots gained the victory | but the date of this is alfo unknown. There is a fmall piece of ground a little up the Burn from Mary-kirk, called the Threap-acre. About the boundary of this ground, it is faidf there was once a difpute between the proprietors of Balmalee- die and Aberluthnet. The former claimed the ground as his^ and faid'the Burn was the boundary; the latter contended . otherwife. At laft they agreed to fettle the difj^ute, by al« lowing the proprietor of Aberluthnet to bring proper men upon the fpot, who might declare upon oath the truth of the mutter. The arbitrators came at the time appointed^ with the earth of Aberluthnet in their boots, and folemnly fwore, they were then ftanding upon the ground of Aber^ (ttthnet. IJliis fraud coming ta thr ears of the proprietor o€ Balmaleedie, he fent his neighbour a challenge to meet him in the field, and anfwer for his perfidy, by fingle combat. The combatants met, and the proprietor of Aberluthnet was flain ; and it is not above 1 8 years fince the ftonea were re- moved from the place where it is faid he was buried. It ia alfo to be obferved, that there were 4 Druidical temples here; one a^t Hofpital Shiells, another on the Bum. of Bal« makellie, a third on th^ farm of Dyke-lands, and at fio^gteat diftance from the Deer dyke, that in ancient times feparated this parifli from Garvock, when (as tradition fays,) it was a foreft ; and a fourth near the houfe of Hatton, at a little diftance from the' public road ; but as the ftones of all thefe are removed, and taken away for building houfesy there ap- pear very few vcftigcs of them now. ' The laft thing that . Vol!xVI1I. 4L - occurs

6^4 Staiifikal Auomt

dscsrs defenlfig mj notice, \»y ihat at Galilow-lttHack, ui the time of tbe feudal fyftem, there wa« a gattowB escfloly on which ffaofe vere hanged who difpleatibd fhe proprietor. The hillock or artiftciai mound (as it aaay be oaUed), is Tifi* bie, but the gallovs was bag ago removed ; and happy^ , happy fliould we thiidc ourfelYBS, diat we live in better tiRjes, when die greateft Lcnrd in the knil witt not— nor dare he moled aSi ^ '

Comparative vle^ of the value of land, mode of cultivation; price of proviCons ; waiges'to fervants ; progrefs of man* ners, from the year 177X1 to the year l^9St wi(h a re* ference now and then, to more diftant periods*

In 177I9 and for 10 years after, an eftate fold at L. (Sooo fteriingi vrouM m the prefimt year i79;» nearly (ell at twice that fam. In 1740, only at L. 3*00; and in 16501 atleft than a years rents of the fame ground the prefent year*

In 1771, every farm was dift^aguilhed by In-fidd, and Ottt-fiel4 lands. The latter far exceeded the f6rmer in extent, and Was fometimes in tillage^ but for the moft part in paf« tnre, while the former was manuied a^nd conftantlj m crt^* But now in 17951 the diftin£Hon between In-field and Out- fieU is aboIi(hied \ and grafs-feeds are fown in almoft every part of the farm.

In 1771, every field contained a number of baulks,* where nothing grew but natural grafs ( and which were deemed fo ftrong and rugged, that it appeared then impofhble to plough them. In 1795, every baulk and obftacle is removed; and the whole land in ,the field cultivated in proportion to the abi- lity of the tenant.

In 1771, in many plteea a quantity of land appeared xsrook* ed in the figure of die letter S, very high in the middle of the ridge, and confequently very unequal in breadth. In 179^1 the ridges are all (traighted and equally broad.

a In

^ Mary4irk. 6$$

In tffti die land was geneyaUy very wet and hSt dt ^iretdi^ and there were few attemfts made^to deftroy tbe«u Sinoe that tune, every field has been not a linle drained apd eioia-plottghed; but all care haa hten takea to dAtoj the wceda; and afltefwards by lime and dong to procare a good

GrD[V

In 1771, the farmen generally ploiighed widi oxen; having 4i 6» or 8 in a ploogh. But in 17951 ^ ^^ prefumed, they bare too mudi laid them aGdt, and betaken themlelm to horfe^pUmght ; and apply 4 or 2 in a plougfa> u they think fiificient for the nature of the foiiy die timei prog»fii> and node of dreffing it. '

, In 177I9 beef fold at as 6d« and 36 per ftone^ mnttOR at 18 6df and as 8d per do. ; butter 6d pen lib. ; cheefe 3^ or 3a9dperftone; chickens idf each} bens from 5d to 8d each,; eggs idt» or 2d per do2. ; fahnon id per lib. $ and in former timesj each of theft articles proportionatly k>wer* In S77?> ^<^f felLs at 5s 4dy or 6s per ftones mutton al ^ s ^d per do. ; butter from lod, to 13d per lab^ ; cheeie from 5s te ^ 6s per ftone ^ chickena from ^ to 7d each } hene from 1% to IS 4d each ; eggs from 4d, to.Sd per doz. ; £ilmon is^ (tU dom nCed but at the tables of the rich, atid is 6d per lib* In the montk of Anguft, yenog falmon begin to be fold at adf ' per do.

In i77i» oat-meal fold at io8» or 10s 6d per boll; bear feldom exceeded the price of meal ; but fipce 1780, oat-meal has been generally increafing in its price, and bear and barley hare fold for more. Barley generally exceeds Cbefter bear, IS dd, or as per boU« In K195$ oat*raeal has got up ttqtsL i6s» to L. I fter. per botl ; 'and bear and barley it is fuppofed, will bring OKyre money. There ii not much flour bread ufed here ; whUt is needed is bought from the baker in loaves and bifctttt. Turnips are^more generallf ufed ioi milk-cows and

4 It a rearing

6^6 Staiyiieal jiccomt

rearing young cattle^ than for feeding oten for the bntcher. Each farmer kills an os or cow betwixt Martinnab and Omftmafs* which is (alted up for family ufe. Poutoes are only beginning to be planted in hrge quantities in the tickl» and only a few bolls are fold over and abore what is needed in the parifli* The crop is worfe this year than any crop fince 1 792) having fuffered . much damage by the long con- tinned rains, but much more indeed from the high winds that fallowed a&en The corns in many places, then ftand* ingi have been almoft all fliaken : and it is fuppofed, that after the quantity of Vi£lual neceflary to fow the fields, and fapplj the inhabitants with provifions, for a fingle year it fecured^ there will not be much over to pay the farms, or to fend to market.

In 17719 every family in the parifh brewed the (matt beer they needed, which coft them about isd or i6d per barrel 1 ^and generally had fome of the ftrongeft wort made into a bf ttcr kind ; but npw this is entirely and by necefQty given over, and all their fmall b^er is taken from a brewery at as 8d per barrel. Whi(ky is the only fpirituous liquor that is ufedi or can be afforded here; which about 16 years ago, they could buy very good in quality, from is rod, to as ad per pint; ue. \6 gills ; but now they pay 3s 6d for the fame quantity, but much wprfe ip qualify *• .

la

* It u indeed worthy fhe attention of the Legiflatare, to endetroar tm corre A in abnfe which has been introduced into this kind of trafBc, and whic^ is now arriTed at the moft alarming height. Whifky is a fpirit diftiUcd from malt, and when properly done, it if edcemed by fome, as very little inferior to rum ; but for fome years, it has very in;ich changed its taOe and ftaTour; and it is Aifpe^d, that cither proper attention is not paid to it at the time of diftilling, or that afterwards it if mixed with fome pernicious ingredientf very dcftniAive to the bowels, or to the health or eonAitutim of thofe ^b^ drink it.

J

af MaryMrl. 637

In 177 If a man-fenrant, or ploi^;lwinan*8 yearly wage$, liefides his maintenance^ L.4, or L.4:io^r annum. In 17501 L. 3* In 174O1 L«i:io. But in the prefent year (179;), they are got upto L. 10 or L« la fterling.

In 17719 the yearly wages of a mald-fenrant, befides her maintenance^ L* 2, or L. 2 : io. In 17601 L. i : lo. In 17509 L. 1:4. But in the prefentyear (1795)9 they are rifen to L.a, orL.2:5« A man*femnt now receires in harveft, L. 29 or L. a : 5 ; a matd-ferrant, L. i : 5, or if fuppofed a ' good handy L. 1 : lo.

In 1 77 1 9 many of the lefs cultivated part of the inhabi- tants of this parifli appeared not Ter.y complai^nt, or well« , bred to ftrangert* An extreme fondncfs for religious difpu*- rations feemed, in fome meafure, to conftitute a part of their ' charafier. The topics in which they were moft converfanty and which appeared to ingrofs no little (hare of their atten* tion9 were of fuch a myftcrious and doubtful nature, that tbe agreement or difagree^lent about them, could neither promote the peace and happinefs of mankindy nor tend to ad« ranee the intercit of true piety and virtue.

In 17959 the manners of the fame individuals appear to , have experienced a confiderable change, andj when contraded with the former period, are highly poliflied. That cenforious jind difputatious fpirit, almoft every where difappears, and is fucceeded by induftry and frugality*. The converfation

^bout

^ The faddeo chaoge of drds, that has taken pHKe in this pariih, wichm the CQorfe of 15 or z 6 years, and the general defire to promote, external de? porationt, (howeier ftrangc it may appear,) hare tended not » little to hu? manizq the paiCons, fpften the features, and to add eafe and fpiightlineffr to the whole form : bat the danger it, tliat if this is extended in any degree heyond the proper line, it will introduce arrogance, diflimnlation, and co!> yetotifnefs, and a fettled contempt for all the ties of fnbordination, (wifely

appointed

6^8 Ssai^ical Account

about religion and-oflKt fubjtds w^icb the sewfptiperB' may now and tfacff bring upon die cat pet, is indeed nuck moie ' peacesdile and radooal tban in &veral other pkce8; and haf marked upon it fmne of \the amiable features of morality and charity, humanity and loyalty^ hospitality and true patriotifioiu The cfaaraAer of the people in this pariih in general tAtnm refpe£l. Bleffcd with a good ofiderftanding, and a tc^eraUe (bare of cotnmon^ fcnfe, tbey are ennbled to perceive rij^t and wrong, and to copy after the manners of thofe they fte lea* fon to refpefi. They live temperately and foberly, in dofe amity with their liei^bours, and no party diftindions^pcar now to Idfcn their good will. Of thofe who atacmd the pa* rifiichinrcby it may be faid with the . fuUcft afiUrance, that diey are regular attendants oii Divine worihip, and the ftated ordinances of the diurch ; and that unle(s in a few prt}ttdi« ces, coatraAed by early education, their reli^oa is of the moderate and peaceable Icind. They are weli ^SeOti to die conftttution of tlieir country, and fincerely love aod haoouv ' their King, aind all the branches of the Roysd Fanaily *»

• appointed by providence^ which mfift ev^r be preferred ; bat wben broJlren» will prove no kfs fatal to the peace and happioe/s of fociety, than anyother iiflempcr, that could poflibly be named. It is with pleaAire to be obferred, that here an ',»foU;it and licentxons fpHt, does by no fflcans ^enendir P^^ vaiL . X

* In the ijvar in which \ffe are engaged, it is apparent, th.at the inhabitants here, in general, bold in perfcft deteftation, the blood-thiiily and dark in* tr' oiling fpirit of the French, The mnrcfer of the- King, Queen, and Royal . i^amily of FrAnce, fltocked the ftoateft of them, with horror and indignation ; Aor arc thefe impreflions teHencd, when they coqceive that the ianc evil principles, which led to perpetrate the blackcft crimes, are artfoUy diflcmi- nated among us, and have precipitated ifome roonAcrs in human form, to endeavour to aflaflinatc our beloved Sovereign : but thanks be to Goi, wlw ba$ been bi« protc^or, and we hope, will ever protcft him from the bloody

attempt*

il

if Mary-kirk, I

Conclufiofu^ln otder to hapfleoye the iffUiQk to the 4\ exteoc, . it would ht ^bluttlj aeccffiicjr to have k all legi I incbfed, and drained* after the moft a{»pf oved Eogiilb <n i To promote tlus, the tenants Oould have long lea£cs> ai letting the gn>«nd» cace stuft b6 taken that the rent do m i ceed its real ^ralue ; and tiiat neither proprietor Jior ttna i icoipoCcd vpon in the terms <^f caQtra&. Bf phMitiog a i her of treea, of hard wood, along the iopbfttreat and a I ingt at the end of the leafe, a certain nunaiber tobdbi the tenant^ this vonld not only inftfre their prefervaiibni be of the bigbeft advantage to both. Short kales, high i ! and high wages to ferranfo, witf incvitably^ (whatever ip; find to the contrary)^ in a Ihorttime) bring ruiniipoi conn^jf whoe the ground is leTel, the foil wer> aod thi finna not earlj. Every iedant labouring nnder theie dt&i tagcs> will endeammr by every mean in his po wer« to Idle i immber of ferrantsand cattle that cnkiTate his golds $ hut i is the con&qnence ? In the (bed-time» he never aoeompli his work in ita fffoper feafon ; and in hnnrying it on^ it i ! aerslly nerer done in the way and manner in which it oug I he done ; and for the fame reafon, |he harreft is later s an not engaging a fitfficient number of reapers* it is protrs far beyond the time in which it could and ought to have I fimflied. This is obviouily one great cakufe of the pre late hanreil : but to thofe vrfio feiioufly turn their thonghl this iihportant fubjeA, it will appear^ that other caufes I concurred to blaft oor expedlations of a very plentiful bar* ** Paul may plant, and Apdlos may water, but it is God • '^ who gtvelh the increafe/' In vain do we attem^pt to c

attempti of evil men. The ule of woe, that woald have enfued, is ha lerovTed ; and we hope a watchful providence will remove it for ever.

C40 Stati/iical Account

▼ate and improve out fieldSf if wie leave the great auAor 1^ natnre, the fountain-head of all kappinefs^ out of our fcfaeraes of improvement. That a fettled disregard to the fuperinteti* dence of the Almighty has been increafing in every corner of the land for feveral years, and that too, to the moft alarm- ing height, is as obvious as any demonftratioa in Euclid- Some there are, who feemingly pay God no homage at all^ odiers who pretend to believe in him as the author and giver 6F alt the good gifts they enjoy ; but at the fame time, piefent hlofi with nothing in return, but fuch oblations and fervices^ as would jbe accounted the higfaeft infult to any earthly bene-^ fador. Properly to explain and illuftrate this fob)e£l would take up more room than might be deemed necefiacy or pro- per for a Statiftical Report. However, one thing is certain^ that God is dishonoured, his fubjedis are not fufficiently grateful and obedient to him. He requires a higher venera« tton, better obedience, and a more rational and refpeQful fervice^ Men may for a time infult and pour contempt upon his Majefty, but there is a period when they muft ftop, and a line and boundary which they dare not pafs over. When they ferve^^him with fidelity, he* blefies then^ wiA plenty ; when they leflen their regards, he is ftill indulgent,' but muft leflen the ftreams of his bounty : but when they grbw defpc- rately mad, and reje£k and defpife him altogether, he &en re- fumes his power, and is ready to deftroy, by his Almighty vengeance. We have fcen the caftigations of heaven, fcvcrc- ly punifhing for a long feafon, chat irreligious and cruel na* tion We have been and are yet contending with ; and we might have feen too, if we had opened our eyes to behold the agency of providence, fome indications of Divine difpleafure againft that country that gave us birth, and which we are all bound to love and fuccoCir "above any other nation in the world : but how can we k)ve our country, if we are ftrangers

to

Qf Mary-Hrh

to the loTe of God. Without this as a firft prindple, w :

have no real regard for apy other objeA lefi yenerabh i

lovely. Bat poflefBng thiSf ^e fliall love our Kingi i

country, and all the various ranks of men in it ; and re i

in feeing and promoting their virtue and happinefs.

this generous fpirit is not excited in proportion to its \ I

is vifible from the lyany inftances we have, of a great in< :

rence to ferve or fuccour either the one or* the other, s

are at all times, and by every reafon in the world- boui i

do. It would be no impoffible thing to render a Qngle \ i

happy, did the men of influence and power in it, unit

evf ry generous endeavour and poffible exertion, to accon i

fo falutary and god-like an objed^; and the fame proportii :

endeavour would be no lefs eSe&ual when extended i

nation or kingdom. But if men of fortune, influenc<

power, do not firft begin to lend a helping hand to thi

ceflary work \ if they are not fii'mly perfuaded, that it 1

consonant to the principles of right reafon and common ( :

that they themfelves fliould firft begin to pay real hoi i

and veneration to the Deity, in any mode or manner wi i

of him, as it is for them to ezpe£i gratitude for great fai ;

they have done, br faithful fervices and tokens of re; |

from ^beir dependents, their children and fervants, it n

can take place ; all the philofophers and politicians on < :

can never eftablifh it. What would every perfi>n well ai ^

ed to his country not give, rather than that that evil

fanguinary fpirit, which, has for a long ,time ravaged Fra i

(hould pervade and defolate'this country, and deftroy

beautiful fabric of the Britiih Government? Our coui

muft be faved ; it muft not become a field of blood ; the ]

didlions againft it are not true. Let us be but at the t!

part of the trouble and expence to preferve it, and to I:

its inhabitants, that our enemies have been to raife to tl

Vq*,. XVIU. 4M ft

^4* StaHKcal Account

iidlfet t otfir conftitatioiif aad to deftroy ottii6» iiid di wobU be wen. Why have the French been fo lopg fuccebfiil mgainft all who have oppoM them, notwidiftandbg theic iotemal commotions^ and bloody di£iftera> but tliat their <all may be the mere con^icuout \ and that all men may know, that this hath God done» to humble the arrogance of the

. impious and terrible^ and fuch as would not have him to xeign oyer them ?. Why have we been fo very unTucce&fuI in gainmg battles, but that we alfo have a debt to pay; the debt of repentance (or many faults committed ; and the dd>t of gratitude for many. bleiBngs and favours conferred npoo tts, which we have been almoft totally unmindfol and regard* lefs of. This-debt/however, muft be fpeedily paid, and not only fO| but in the beft manner we poffibly can. Railing armies will not do/ ^ough with thefe armies we could dc- ftroy all our enemies ; for if God be angry, he can deftroy by famine, as weU as by fword ; and if this be is pleafed to withhold, he has other weapona equally terriUe to execute his difplcafure* Neither will a day ot- two appointed for fading and humiliadon do the bufinefs, unlefs they excite 'in us thofe difpofitions of mind, which are beft calculated to regain his favour. Let it become as faihionable every Lord's day, for all people of figure and fortnne, to attend the fanduary of God, as it has for feveral years been fathion*

^'able for fome to contemn and difpife it. Were this once begun, the reft of the work would be pleafant and fooa completed; and what the work is two ientences could ex«~ plain. At prefcnt, all that is neccflfary to be obferved is, tint if we are in eameft to preferve every thing that ought to be accounted dear to us as Britons, we muft in die firft place, be all of us at Icaft profeflbrs of religion, and attend- ants on the ordinances of the gofpel, and the reft of the work would foon fucceed, to the wondet and aftonilhment

of

of all the wotld: FaAion would ceafe, and fly oar con and an uniTcrfal hannony and good* will would No enemy would 'rife up againft us, becaufe' foon it be knowui that all the armies on earth could not i afVaid*

4Mz

NUM

ISn4 Stati/hcal Auoim

NUMBER XXIV. PARISH OF BOTRIPHNIE.

(county of BANFF.)

^ . By the Rev. Mr Alexander Angus.

Name, Situationf isfcm

I AM entirely unacquainted with the derivation of the name Botriphnie. It is probably Gaelic ; but there is no tradition remaining how long it is fince that language was fpoken in this part of the county. ^The extent of the pariih from north to fouth, is about 3^ computed nrilesj and from eall to wcfty about 3 miles. The pariih of Mortlich lic$ to the weft, Glafs to the fouth, Cairney and Keith to the eaft» and the united pariflies of Boharm and Dundurcus to the ' north. The diftance^from the fea is 9 computed miles.

The appearance of the country is hilly; but the valley is very fertile and beautifully diverGfied with fmall ftreams of water, the banks of which are covered with birch and aller^ the natural produ£lion of the foil. Lime-ftone is found here in great plenty, and in many places not above 2 feet from the furface$ but it is little ufed in this pariih as a manure. There are few mechanics pf any kind $ the men are generally employed in huibandry, the women in fpining flax } partly

the

; 0f BotripMe:' * <54$

the growth of this country, vhich they manufaffaire inta coarfe cloth ; and partly flax imported from Holland, which it made into finer yarn ; and fenc from this to Paiffey or Glafgow. At prefent, the price of fpinning is low, and a woman cannot earn more than^ 2od, or 2S a*week*

The farmers are in general poor. Confidering th^ ftate of . cuItiTation, the land is high-rented, the beft paying nearly aos, and the inferior iQs; but, befides the fixed rent, the tenant pays the land*tax ; is obliged to work fo many days in hanreft, to lead fuel in fummer, to carry fo many loads to the diftance of ao miles ; a praflice which ha$ a tendency to break the fpirit of ihe tenant, and to dtfcourage improTc- ment ;• bcBdes, the tenants feldom having* a Icafe for more than 19 years.

The rent of the pariih is about L. xooo ; of which L. 850 belongs to Mr Duff of Drummuir ; L. xoo to Lord Fife, and L. 50 to Mr Stewart of Auchluncart. The church was built in 161 '^, and the manfe in 1776. The only ftinds for the ' maintenance of the poor, are our weekly colledions, which will amount yearly, to about L.6 fterling, and £.3:10, * the intercft of money belonging to the Kirk Seflion.

The roinifter's ftipend, including the glebe of 4 acres, does not amount to more than L. 80 fterling. ' The SeflHon Records are not older than the incumbency of my predeceflbr, who was fettled in 1728, and was the firft Prefbyteriait minifter after the Revolution. There is a rcgi- fter of baptifms kept pretty regularly fince \6ifo.

The pariih confifts of 630 fouls, of whom males 301 ; females 329 ; the number of families 150 ; the average num* ber of births 14; noregifterof burials kept; 103 under 10 years of age ; 85 between 10, and ao. There are no remark* able inftanccs of longevity; there^are only about 3 perfons in ihe parifli above So. We have 15 Seceders; 3 Roman c%^

... tbolics;

6|A Statifiicat AccoMhi

tbdticft ^ mmI I of the Epifcopal drarch. Fopahtion ha« de- creafed t^82» about xoo. This dccreafc bowing to the pom* t J of the coontry, and die advance of rents \ the podrer poo* pie fedre to the Tillages and towns where thej are employed by the maoiifaAiirefs ; and many of the young men find more encouragement in the fonthem counties.

I am perfoaded there muft have been foae miftake in the aceount^of the population of this parifli given to Dr Wcb» fter in I7S5» The nmnbers are ftated by him at 953.

The Mft I have taken is very exadj and conefponds to a roH of examinable perfons^ as £ir back as x68f, whieh I found lately in looking orer an old Scflion Regifter*, the nomhev at that time, was 486, and it would not^be tnah%h a calculation to fuppofe, that there mi^t be 100 under 8 years of age. ^ince I haYe been here^ that isi .firom 17749 the popttlatioa has decreafed about ioo« This is- owi^ in fome degreci to the bad crops in 1782^ and 1783, whkh re- duced many ef the furmers, and obUged others to go to the neighbouring towns and Tillages. But befides tfais» mois for fuel is becoming eTery day more and more fcarce; and heiii* tors reftrifk their tenants to a certain nuniber of foblets. The difficulty of proriding fuel is one of the greateft obftades ' to the progreCs of agricukore ; white our fouthern nd^ibourt are employing their horfes and ferrants in thcf diffisrent psots of huibandry, we are drudging from the beginning of fammer to the end of it, in proriding at beft but a Tcry precarious fiock of > fuel for the winter. Were the duty taken off the cosIS) we ftould then be able to proTide them at a much Uieaper rate than peats^ and in one (ixth part'of the time*.

It might be mentioned as another caufe of the decreafe of population, that the fervants wages hsTC adTanced Tery con-

fiderably

^ The duty on ooals canaod co»ft«ways, hat been taJcea »£ fiiKc this a^^ cou^t was. written.

^f Botripbnh. i

^derably fince 17821 and t}ie fanners; at leaft in fSm pai employ fewer than tbey did before that period i and as cattle have ad?ai|ced mi^ch in their valae^ more of them reared in this country, and of confequence, lefs gral raifed, and fewer hands a^ e necf 0ary for the cultiration.

School tf this PqryL— T\^txti% a legal parifli fchool; falary of the fchoolmafteri xa bolls of meal \ L. 2 fterltn] Seffion clerk ;^6d for erery baptifm \ is for every mania and 18 6d a quarter for eyery fcholar. The number of fc larsi firom 20 to 30. The children are taught reading Eng and writing \ a few of them tnftru£led in* the principles arithmetic \ but the Latin language not fo commonly tau at the parochial fchools as formerly ; though in general, fchoolmafters are fuCKciently qualified for that purpofe* 1 is of great confequence to minifters children, as Uieir nari livings could not afibrd to board them in a to^n, while at grammar fchooU

My owi| family it very n^imerous : I have 2 fons ani daughters ; and hare been married 13 years*

There is not an ale-houfe, or inn in the pari(h ; we hi an annual fair in the month of February ; where linen p commonly the produ£tion of home flaxi is fold ; and a fome farming litenfils ; where bargains are niade for vi£ta s^nd fervants are engaged.

The farmers in this corner, generally employ faired ( ▼ants \ cottagers are vciy little employed ; they are genera tradefmeni and cultivate a few acres; which they hold the tenant, and over and above their rent, are bound for ixtany days work, ^ ^

APPENDi;

APPENDIX.

ACCQUNT o» RELIGIOUS HOUSES,

(Oal^eiinStNtiaieilAceaaBtef tkePadbof CatrgO, V<)l.z.P. i

St Mutigt.

^T the eaft end of the towtii on the fiea coft, (the road only sntenrenxng,) there are the remains of a c I called St Mango's cfaapeli of which the tradition is, tl i iras on or near the place where Bt Mungo otf Kentlgerr i bom. He is faid to hare been the fon of Eugenitrs th< : King of the Scots, and a daughter of Lothus King oi Pi As, His mother Thamiti when near the- time of her 1 ▼ery, in order to conceal her fltamei threw herfelf ini i open boat, with a view to its being caft away, and, I being, for fome time, tofled about in the Firth, was di afliore, at or near the place where the chapel is fitu i and there brought forth her (bn. There were two chap ; for this chapel, who had their ftipend paid out of fome 1 1 in Strathern ; but. after the Reformation, thefe lands ' ; difponed by the crown, to the college of Glafgow. St £ [ go was educated at Culrofs, under the tuition of Senr: . or St Serf, who lived in an hermitagCj in the place w : the monaftery was afterwards built.

Vox.. XVIIL

4N

p^o Appendix.

StStpf.

Anecdotes of SrSetf,.froni WUltcrt ClirAicle,-« M. S. in the Cotton Library : Winter lived in the end oF the I4ib^ and beginning of the 15th century : he was a Canon Te- gular of St Andrew^sy mnA Prior of the Monaftcry of Xioch-leven, An excerpt from his Chronicle is pnbliflied by Pinkertoni in a collc<£iion of old Scots poems, which gfres the jfbllowing accoimt ct Si Serf.

6t Sb&#, ynm ioAtoAe Git^ «f Cttti^ni^ wilsifigtied fits paternal inheritance to a younger brother^ that be might be at libertj to travel. Abrnt .the death of Pope fcSin* IIL A. D. 51 1» he came to Rome, and according to the legecid, %4tf ryiifed tt>^e p^f^j^ whWli he heW .7 yc^*: (Thli, P&- tkertdn thtokf to ^ a fable, and |^es in «« Uft(OtHM«a, that StSerf Iras a native of liaiyO. Seeing but {roni^llMiei a&d trwrelting tht^ngh FrandiP, he aitvred at th^oppoGle fliore le JMtaik), whore he embarkttf with hisretilittft of lOo nicai oAd ftfter a proi^eTdua voyagO^ atrived at the Ifland of Inch- Iteithi between Lelth and KinghorB i there lie was tifited by $an£l Adaman } then Abbot of I^olum-kil ; (Iiicfc*colh) I fup^ pofe,) and intreated to come to Fife, tn c^ompVianc^ ivic£ ithe holy mate's requeft, he left Ineh-keitby an^ anived ik l)y&rt^ and proceeding from thence tiy water, came to kiti- aiel»— *«What follows is in Wfcfcct's language :

Sync at Kifiniel h« came to I^nd ; There our the water he keft hu wande* That fnddeiiiy gtcw in a treri And bare of applis great plente ^ . ,. • . • ^nd that (lede aftyr ay, Mot^lifiitTflM cdlod nony day. ' Syne our the^water, of p^irpofe. Of Forth he paHed tiUCulroflc ; «

* _ Quhtr that he thought a kirlt la foiiJuL

" In

6^z Jfpfndix^

The monaftery wlKick was founded in die year 12179 lif Malcolm Thane of Ftfe,- lies northweft from St MUngo's, air the head of die town, on a rifing ground, commandmg » beautifal and extenfire profpeA of the Firdi ; conftdefaUe remains of it are yet to be feen ; on the north fide of it was ' the abbey churchy which had a tower or ft^eple in the middle of it, m^ch continues ftill endre, as alfo the part of the church which is now made ufe of for die parifli church. The abbey church was dedicated not only to the Yiqpa Muj^ but alfo to St Serf) who was conGderc4 U the* tsDdar iiuaft of this place, in honour of whom, thtte*wisiea anomd ^ro- cellion on his day; viz. ift July, early tii^ the flMtiMig -of which, all die inhabitants, men and women, y^unlf and isAd, afiembled and carried green branches through the ^towm^ decking the public places with flowers, and fpent the reft of the day in feftivity. The piQCeilioii is ftill condnucd, though the day is changed from the Saint's day« to the prefent King's birth*day.

The Earls of Argyle who were formerly wont to refide at Caftle Campbell, a ftrong hold of theirs on die' foudt fide of the Ochils, are faid to have been heritable baiKr'^f the abbey; by them it was difpofed to Cohrill of Ochiltree, in whofe fa* mily the office continued, till the heritable jurifdi£tions were taken away, anno 1 743* ^-y-

The Argyle family had a chspel adjoining to, end^donknu- tiicatiflg ^ith the chtirch, a part of whkh ftill remains; and fome of die family were butied there. '

A convent was fent to this abbey, from the abbey of Kin- lofs, widi Hugh die firft abbot. John Hog w«s abbot of this place, 14th April 1484, when Culrofe was ereOed into a burgh of bartfny^ The laft abbot of this place was Alexan- der fon to Sir James Colvill of Ochiltreei who was admitted a Lord of Seffioni anno 1574. Sir James, brother to Aicx- I ander

r^ andcfj was nifed t^ Uie 4^1tf ofLord ^vUl oi^ Cu

fx at wbidk time, the Kii^ gave tiUu a grant of the 4iQ

ip abkicy.

% • At the Refbimatioiit the natal of this ^heji a^iou^i]

1(1 Ite f 68 : id: 7 of money ; 3 chalder«s 3 boUs wheats 14

^ ders, 10 bollfti 2 firbts barky; 13 ^halders, 12 boUa 3 i

lit 3 V' pecks oats ; i chalder a bolia fsdt ; 10. wedders; a^-la

^; 7 doz. of capons ; aSj- doz. of poultiy ; 7^^ ^ne buttc

^ fions cheefe ; and t trufles of draw. At that time^

^ weie 9 Monks in^ the eoiiTenc of the Gftertian order. .

10 About a qimter o€ a mile to the weft of the abbey cb

f are die r«aas of the old churchy which was befcnre the S

H matsaa lj^ parifli ehtirch» and which, with the churcli

^ aPEOox^iti isAiilmfedaebttsialgToiiadf

a

TRIAJL of William Coke and Alison 'ttic WUcbcraft* — Extradlcd from the Minutes V .c c j|£bei£iir^rSeffion of Kirkaldj* A. D. 1(5369

* - ' ' ' ' (Omitted in the Accwnt of Kirkaldy, P. 1.)

. - ■> J." . .t. . ;» • ,

Septmher 17/i, 163;

HE vhUhdnyy cMipoafod AlKonDick, challenged fome fpeeches vttcfed by hfr ^gaiaft William Cokci t< to Witchcraft; denied lb# iamyofs.

I. Compeared AlexMuderSftrage, Andrew Nicql, and C Tiliie, who being admitted and fwora, deponed as fo The faid Alexander Savage, that he heatd the faid . Dlok fay to her hnlbahd William Cc^ce, << Thou ti " down many (htps ; it had been gude. for the pe<

"Kii

<54 jfppenXi^

'< KirkaMie, iJiat they had hait a ftdne about thy neck' aikT " drowned thee."

2. Andrew Nicol deponed, that he heard the faid Afifbn fiiy to biin» '* Tho« has g<|tten the woman's fong laid, as ^' tbott promifed ; thou art over long Imng : ie had been *< gttde for the women of KMaidy, that -thou had been' *^ dead Ibng finee. I (hatt caofe all the world wonder «* upon thee.'*

3. George Tillie depoiied, that he heaid her fay to Mm^ '' It had been gade for the woar^n of Kiifcaldy, io pur " him to death; and that h^faad di^d 7 years fincc."-^

Also compeared Jean Adainfon, KaArine Sjpetft, Mttion- Meafon, Ifobel Murifen, Aliibn KeUodi^ who being ad- mitted and fwom, deponed as follows :

4* Jean Adamfon deponed, that (he heard Alifon Diek fay to her hiilband William Coke, «' Thief! Thief f what is this <^that I have been doin^? keeping thee thretty yeaxa ^' from meikle evil doing. Many pretty men has thoa '* putten down both in (hips and boats $ thou has gotten '* the woman's fong laid now. Let honcft men puddle ** and wosk aa they liket if they pleafb not (hee welF^ <^ tl^y (hall not have meikle to the fore when they die.

5. Kathrine Spcns deponed, that (he heard hef fay to hlmv ^* Common thief, I have hindered thee from maiiy ill tumi ^< doing both to (hips and boats.**

6. Marion Meafoa deponed, that fiie heard her &iy, *^ Commmi '* thief, mony ill turn have I hindered thee from doing thir " thretty years \ mony (tips and boats has thou put do^ra : ^^ and when I would have halden the ftring to have faved *' one man, thou wald not*' '

- ' 7. Ifobcl

f. K^bcl Mtiifoa dspoiitds tb^it. <he iiear^ berfi^.te bit <^ Thief, thiof^ I havvc koeped Uiec ftrooi 4(^i^ a)#i|y .^ ^. . V 110(0^ Thott has now laid th^ womac'^ fong."

September 24/^, 1633.

S« Compeaxeil Jao^t AIUoi n^i^ of unnquliUc Jalui Punc;

fiflieT|,^fPoe4i libot AUfoa Qkk c^mci ia u|ioiv».cefta

time to her houf«, when (fae was Ijping in of ^ b,4itn>: ai

. cfaved^fbtk|6. four bakes ^ and (he dejiying to give her an

. the faid AltCw^ faid, Jpar bairns (haJl beg yet» (as they.dc

And her holband being aqgry at her, reproved her; ai

file abufed him in language ; and when he (Irak her, £

£^d Chat Am9 ih<ai4l4 caufe him me k ji . 9md (be hoped to (

i ^tbcjHV^njM^ biggin hifl hair $ and within half a^jear^ 1

was cafte^ V^^f^ and.his boat, and periihed.

9* Janet Sanders, daughter*in-law to the (aid William Cqk

and Alifon Dick deponed, that William Cote , came in

her; and ^^ being wee pifi^|> he demanded tjie^caurejQf :

, Ihe airfvered it was fo.r her fauiband. The faid Wiljia

, . f^id} Wjhal ails thee ? Thou wilt get |hy gudinan ag^ii

.. ..but JQ. wUl get him both naked and bare: and where

. ..there was no iford of him for a long time before, he can

hpme within, two days thereafter, naked ^nd bare as i

, (aid; the (hip wherein he was being caften awaj:

4^ XOm Jean^damCbn^depon^, t^iat when her gudman ix\\t

with David Roberi;|font the faid Dftf id having fent hi

home with a Ih^.^o.cpnie for Scotland, there was a^of

time that there was no word of that (hip ; lb tl^at D:vv

Robertfon coming home, an4 the other flup not com

nor no word from her, he faid he woqld never fee he

The faid Alifon Dick came in to her, ((he with her bain

being weeping,) and faid. What ails ye Jean to weep

She anfwered, We have all good caufe to we^ for n:

hu(ban<

656 jtppehdis^

hufbandi whom we will never fee mwe. The (aid Alifoi

{audy lieM yiMir tongue, yoar gndman and all the compa«

ny ate well enough ; they are in Norway loading their (hip

vith timber to come home; they will be herefhortly:

.. and fo it fell out in every point as (he (aid«

5, 1 1. Kathrine Sptna deponiedy that Winiam Coke came in

to hcfy ^ter that his wile had fpoken fe much etil to him,

•and CMd> Kathrine, my wife has fpoken meikle ill of me

this day, but I faid nothing to her sf atn* If I had fpoken

two words to her the laft time (he was m the (Uq)Iej flie

r would never have gotten out of it.

Minutes of 24th September, Ordains Mr James Miller to ride to Prefton, for the man that triea the witeffaes* The expence to be paid by the Town and fieffion.

OSbAer Zii.

12. Compeared IfobelHay, fpoufeto Alexander Law, againft Altfon Dick, who being fwom, deponed^ that fiie htviof come in to her houfe, her hufhand beti^ newly faled, (he craved fome money of her, which Ae refilled, and boafted her. The (aid Aliibn (aid, It fliatt gang wair geats \ and that fame voyage, her hu(band had gveat lors. And thereafter, the faid Alifon came in to her iioufo, (he being furth, and took her fitter by the hand, and fince that time, the maiden had never been in her ri^ wtts«

13. Willtam Bervie declaired, that Robert Whyt having once ftficken William Coke, Alifon Dick his wife, came to the faid Robert, and faid. Wherefore have ye ftrid:eB my hufband? I (hall caufe you rue ic. Hie (aid Robert re- plying. What fayeft thou ? I fliall give you as much^^you witch. She anfwercd, '< Witchea take the wit and the

# «■ grace

Appeniix. 6$^

s

H

[r

I ^ ^ p9Ct ftotcijovL t usd that fame night, he was'bereFt o£

I ^hiiWits.*'

I Y4« Itfnet Whyt, daughter td At iHA Itobert, tompearing,

iftrmed the faid Attzj to 'be true upon her oath* And sddedythatihe wetit to die (aid Aliron, and reproted her.

I taying the wyt cff herfathet^s ficknefs upon her. Let %ink

|j pVf me then, tod he ^1 be better ^ but if he pay me nor»

^ lie will be wotfe* For there is none that does me wrong,

I hot I ^ to my god and complains upon then) ; and widv

in 24 hours, I will get a mends of th^ro. The faid Janet

Whyt declared^ that Alifon Dick faid to her fervant, Ag-

^M^ Vairiie, I have gotten a grip of your gudwife's thigh ^

I . I fliiii gee a grip of her leg next -, the faid Janet having

burnt her thigh before with lint : and thei^after flie has

taken fuch a pain in her kg, that flib can get no remedy

15. tot it. Whitk die faid Agnes Fairiie deponed, upon her

' gieat otdito be true.

AQfon Dk^ lierfelf declared, that David Paterfon, Ikipper, htavtlig ftruck William Coke her hu0>and, and drawn him by i^t feet, and compelled him to bear his gear aboard, die Aid Willtam curfed the faid David, and diat voyage be was Uktn by the Dunkirkers. Alfo, ait another time * thereafter, be compelkd him to bear his gear aboard, and a £aptain*s whb was with him : and when the captain would have paid him, the faid David would not fufier %im ; but he himfelf gave him what he liked. The faid Williaai curfed the faid David very vehemendy: and at that tine he himfelf perifiied, his (hip, and* all his com« pany, except two or thr«e. Alfo flic declared, that when hia own fon failed in David Whyt's (hip, and gave not his father his bonnallie, die faid William faid, What? Is he (ailed and given me nothing ? The devil be witll^him :— if ever he ccme home again, he ihali come home naked Voi,XVm. 4O an*

658 AppendiXf

and .bare : and fo it fell out. For John Whjt^ who tod that fliip freighted to Norwaj, aad aaother wherein him- felf was, declarfid, that they had very foul weather | and the ihip wherein the laid young William Coke, was perifb- cd \ and he faved all the men in the Qxipi wherein he was .himfelf. ,And albiet the ftorm incxeafed two days before the perifhing of the faid (hip, and fix days after; yct^ the two hours ipace in .the which they were famg the menj it was fo calm in that part of the fea^ that they rowed from one ihip to the other, with two oars \ and the lea was all troublefome about them. And the Aid WWhm Coke the youngeri was the firft man that came ^.ftup* boafd*

Potion. — The iame day, Alifon Dick b^mg demanded by Mr Jaines Simfon Minifter, when, and how ih^ fell in covenant with the devil j fh'e anfwered» her hulband mony times urged her, and (he yielded only two or three years fince. The maaoer was thus : he gav^ tiei^. foul and body, quick and quidder full to the devil^ an^. bade her do fo. But (he in her heart faid, God guide me. And then (lie faid to him, I Ihall do any thing that )c hid me : and fo (he gave herfelf to the devil in the forefaid words.— This (he confefled about four hours at ^ven^ freely without compulfion, before Mr James Simfon^ minifter, Williani Tennent, baillie, Robert French^, town clerk, Mr .John Malcolme, fchoolmafter, William Craig, aad me the faid Mr James Miller, writer hereof.

X)Sfobir i^th.

i6. The which day, compeared Chriflian Ronaldfon, againft Ali^n Dick, who, in her prefence being fworn, deponed, that (he having fet ane houfe to the faid Alifon, and when

the

the gwlinati cftme home he was angiy,' and faid^ ^ald not hare the devil to dwell above him in the clo * and he went and ftruck up the door, and put forth 1

i chimney that iOie put in it^ And thereafter, Alifonca

t ' ta.die tuA Oiriftian, md dioppied'upon her (houlder^ a

I faidrtoher, Chriftie^ your gudman is going to&il,*a

I hfethat ane ftock amongi htk hands ; but ere long, his ftc

: I fludl/be as (hort aa nrine«* ' And fo it fell out ; for Ee ^

% xaftea away in David WHyt's ihipi and ioved dotbnpfgl

if

b OBober M#

$ ly.l^Ccknpeared Merjory Marfliali againft: Alifdn DiclC| w

^ * beidg jEwoiii, deponed, . that Alifen having brought 1

giMkban^s cloatha once from the Caftle-haven, (he oflei

har dad ;for her labour, who would not have it ; and i

I ' faiil to.ber, AUfon, there is not many of them; £

anfwtredy they (hall be fewer the next time : and die m

i ^<^J^^ M was calt away in: David 'Whyt's (hip.

^ \ii Gompeaiedalfo Katbrine WiUbn, who being fworn, <

^ pdned^ that flie and Janet Why t being Aiding togeth

^ .. Aiifon Dick came to dxm, and alked 'filvier from Jai

^ WNyt, who would giveher none, bnt fled her compa

^ > iMO thr {kid.Kathtine'& faoufe, and <he foflowed, and i

^ gave her a piece bread, and Janet Whyt bade her give I

^ a ffkck alfo, and (be fhould pay her againr. And wh

1. file got it, (be faid, is this all that (he gives me ? If i

I had giyen me a groat, it would have vantaged her a the

u fand puods« This is your doing, evil tidings come up

you. And (he wftnt do^n the dofs, and pifled at th

meal-cellar door i and after that, they jiad never meal

that cellar, (they bciiig meaKmi^ers). And thereafi

. they bought a horfe at 4Q lib. \ and the hor(e never c:

. \ * ri

J -

ritfda Im^ t^ibmn but b90^ bot" died in ike Im^, b^pi^ u Jibti, b dial e^e^ bodj; faiA tbtc' ht vas wiftcbeiL

"ifk SiqpAietl BoftreH being fvoni, deponed, that Iwr god- man being to fail to ihe Eaft country, loadea with fidt, the faid Alifim IMck hwnag bom fimc oi the ftk aboftrd^ fbe came to her «nd cnved metief from heiv who g«re her meat;, but wottld giye her no mo- ney, faying to her, Alifon, my gndmtn baa paid yoa himfelf, and therefore, I will' giro yon notUng. She replied '^ni ft girt me ndlhing? I hdpe in God^ k will be better Iharp (cheaper) firid nor it was: bought: and (b it Ml out; for the fldp fiiiled npod dbe mom i tnd the- day after diet, Sie fimk, hk ned ad^ eacept the men, wIm^ were iated by anothet flup that wte i by them.

so. Thomaa Meftard being fwom, deponed^ dmt Je Wilibn going onee to lair, AKfen Dick caiaae ta hnn, and dcfyred filver ftom him, he would gite her nose ; flie abufed him widi tengnage» and he ftmck her; flie faid to him, that diat hand fiioul^ do him Htde good ^voyage : 4nd within twadaya after, hk hand fwcUed at great aa a |»nNftoep, fo that he could gat Iktk or nodikig doaie with it The next time aUb when he wan to (aS, die faid Alifon went betwixt him and the boat i and he fiud. Ton ' £ime witch thief ia going bdfwist me and the boat ; I muik have blood of her : and he went and ftrack her, and bled her, and flie curfisd him and banned him ; and that fame- voyage, he being< in Caithnefa^ Aen^g upon th^ flsore, deidiing a tow, and a boy with him) die fea came and took him away, amd he^ died ; and the boy was well enough.

DcCrea

pc&teB Mr Robert Doiqlas tq go W i^fli Archbifliop viA thif prpcefs, to get l^id appiobfttiaa tbcrctoi who takes upon him to do the (axne«

fiCnute of Norember ipth.— jt giren te a load of coals to AUTon Dick I 148. for hef eottrtainiaeat thia week bj- go«e» being this dajE^ with her huOaad 'WiUiam Coke^ burnt for wimdmaft^

. Xft-^^Sfifittte of 17th December, there is a particular A^OQunt of the Topm and'Seflbft^s ex^Eaotdiuarj Deburfj:- meata ibr WajuMAi Cokb and Alison Dick, Witches.

Jnprimii.'^To Mr James Miller, when he wentto

Preftowne foraman to try them,47s. L« a 7 Jhmy^To the man of Culrois,^ (the execu- tioiier,) when he went away the firft time, las* • • o m

- ' J!eMf«-»For coab for the witches, 24^. - 14 //ffff ;-*In purchafing the fommiiSon, - 93 bimw^JSox one to go to Finmoath for the

hard to fit upon their afhfe as judge, o 6 £m.«-fFor harden to be jumps to them, • 3 10 /rnvi.— For making of them, - -08

•< • • mmmmmmmmm .

Sttmma for the .Kirk's part L. 27 10 Scots«

The

66% dpfendix.

The Town's part i^ Ezpences Deburfed extnordinanly i^'ftyik William Coke and Alison Dick.

• •

Inprimisn^^Yor ten loads of coals to burn thenii

5 merks^ - - L3 6 S

liifH. — For a tar barrel, 14s. -• . - o 14 o henu — For towes, ; • . - • 060

///m.— To him that brought the executioner, a iS o Item. — To the executioner for his pains, 8 14 o Jifm.'^YoT his expences here, - o 16 4

Ititn^^^f Of one to go to Finnvouth for the

laird, - - -060

Summit Town part, L. 17 i Scots* Bpth, L.34 II Or L. 2 17 7fttr.

END OF VOLUME EIGHTEENTH,

ERRATA-

(In ibe Accounts of Kippen, Bo-ne&» i

Page' 33ft lloe ult, iaftrt the number 1799.

336 line x6, fvr county, rtad the eountiy.

— ~ line fti, rt9d the years.

343 line 7, fir Dutch rtmi Tron.

435 line 95, /or proprietor and fap«iior, rtad pf« :

'433 ^c %^fir alfo a good ▼eflel, fm/ all good 1

43 7 line Ittfirj pence halfpenny per cent, read \

49ft line ftft, 33, fir 9fttx Veipaiiatt who had fei I hadfent.

494 line 19, fir Regam, read Regan.

50^ line 8, fir change of Perth, read change of I . 504 line l^fir Provofl, read Ttoroiis.

505 lines I, and t^.fi^r Valllams, read ValviBes.

50S line 10, fir Thone, read Thor.

5-18 line 16, fir Whlttel, r««tf VTkittet.

3ft7 line 8, dele made.

53ft line IJ^ fir 2300, read 3ftOO.

J39 line j, fir *' thefe will probably form at Ul ** ground of the Blackfriars," reM\ " be the addition of what may be H tUe ground of the Blackfriars."

*«* Tie Binder wiB t4iie n§iUe of tie Canceh Purijh.