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MYK RESEARCH UBRARIES
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M
rat STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OP
SCOTLAND.
DRAWN UP FROM THE COMMUNICATIONS
OF THE
MINIS T E R S
OF THE
DIFFERENT PARISHES. BtSikJOHN SINCLAIR, Bart. ~
VOLUME FIRST.VV.
•- - •
• ^. ••
EDINBURGH:
PRINTED AND SOLD BY WILLIAM CREECH;
^KD ALSO SOLD BY J. DONALDSON^ AND A. GUTHRlEt £DINBURCM;
T. CADBLLi J. STOCKDALBy J* DEBRETT, AND J. SBWELf
LONDON; DUNLOP AND WILSON, GLASGOW;
ANGirS AMD SON, ABERDEEN.
MyDCCiXCI.
••• • ••-
INTRODUCTION.
IT is BOW about twelve months fince I firft had the honour of circulating among the Clergy of the Church of Scotland a variety of Queries, for the pur« pofe of elucidating the Natural Hiftory and jPoIitical State of that Country. My original idea was, to have drawn up from their returns a general Statiftical view of North Britain, without any particular reference to Parochial diftrids« But I found fuch merit and abi- lity, and fo many ufeful fads and important obferva* tions in the anfwers which were fent me, that I could not think of depriving the Clergy of the credit they were entitled to derive from fuch laborious ezer£ionsi and I was thence induced to give the Work'M £he Publicin its prefent ihapet , .'<y. '*'/:*••'.
It would have been more defirable to-nsrv^'Kacl* '•.*'.•• the accounts of the different Parifhes arrang^..5y, ' Prefbyteries or Counties, for the purpofe of ' coi^ nexion, and to prevent repetition, where the circum- fiances of the diflPerent diftrids were nearly fimilar. But it was not to be expedted that complete informa- tion refpe&ing any one of the larger divifions of the Kingdom) could be at once obtained* It was there- fore
< vi )
fere thought moft advifable to throw as much varie« ly as poflible into the Firft Volume, that the Reader might be enabled to form fome general idea of the State of the Kingdom even from this parf of the Work. Whether the fame plan is to be perfevered in, pr whether more regularity and connexion are to be attended to in future, will depend on the unani« mity and difpatch with which the Clergy tranfmk the necefiary information to the Author.
The variety of bufinefs, both of a public and of a private nature, in which I have of late been engaged, has prevented me from arranging or abridging, fb completely as otherwife I fiiould have done, the an- fwers included ip^ this Volume; and, indeed, that part of the Work muft be attended with confiderable difficulty, unlefs the Clergy in general will do, what many «if them have very faccefsfuUy executed, name- ly,*'Cr^tmit their accounts prepared for immediate* .puUicaHpn* Anfwers to the Queries, however, which ;havcr*been.cilsculated, are dill requefted; but, where it *is;cfqo9i!y' convenient, it is certainly more defirable i^at li\e.*dergy fhould condder the Queries merely as 0hj[io inquiry ; and the models which are ^w fet before them, together with the annexed Analylis, will be of fervice in pointing out the beft mode of draw* ing up the Statiftical Account of the different dt« ftriast
l£
.**•
< ♦» )
It would be improper to conclude without retutfiiing^ my beft acknowledgments to the Clergy in general, for the attention they hare paid to the different requifi- tions with which I have troubled them, and for the very polite and flattering manner with which they have perfonatty ^ddrefl^ th^mfehres tp me on the occafiom The fpirit and alacrity with which they have enga-^ ged in fo laborious aA undertaking muft ever do them infinite credit |^ and they muft feel the utmoft iadsfafiion from the refledios, that they have con- tributed to the formation of a Work, of which it may be truly faid, in the words of a refpedable citi- zen of this country *, ^^ That no Publication of equal '* information and curioiity has appeared in Great '^ Britain fince Dooms-day Book; and that, from the ** ample and authentic hGts which it records, it muft ^^ be reforted to by every future Statefman, Philofo* ^* pher, and Divine, as the beft baiis that has ever ^ jet' appeared for political fpeculation.
ff
* Gcotge Dempftcr, £f4;
ANALT. anm.
ni. MAT 25.7 I 7 » «• 5
ANALYSIS
OF
The Statijikal Account rfa Parochial Di/iri^^
As many of the Clergy may be defirons of having a particu- lar form laid down for drawing up the Statlftical Accoont of their refpeftive Parifhes, the following plan for that pm'pofe is iubmittcd to their conCderation*
^he name, and its origin
Situation and extent of the parlih
Number of acres
Defcription of the foil and furfiice
Nature and extent of the fea coaft
Lakes, rivers, tflandS| hills, rocksj caves^ woodS| orchatdSi ftc.
Qimate and difeafes
Inftances of longevity
State of property
Number of proprietors
Number of reiiding proprietofi -
Mode of cultivation
Impkcnents of hufbandry
Manures
Seed-time and harveft
Remarkable inftances of good and bad feafdiii
Quantity and value of each fpecies of crop
Total value of the whole produce of the diftri£l
Total real and valued rent
Price of grain and provifions
To;at
( « )
Total quantity of gnun and other articles confumed in the
parilb Wages and price of labour Services, whether exafled or aboli(hed G>mfnerce Manu£i£ture8 Manoiafture of kelp^ its amount^ and the ntkmber of peopit
employed in it Fifheries
Towns and villages Police
Inns and ale^-houfes Roads and bridges Harbours
Ferriesi and their ftate Number of (hips and veilels Number of feamen State of the church Stipend, manfe, glebe, and patroli Number of poor
Parochial funds, and the management of them State of the fchools, and number of fcholars Antient ftate of population Caufeso£its increafe or decreafe Nuaiber of families
EzaA amount of the number of fouls now living Divifion of the Inhabitants
!• By the place of their birth
a* By their ages
3. By their religious perfuafions
4« By their occupations and fituation in life
5* By their reiidence, whether in town^ TiUagej or In the country
Vol. I« k Number
Kumber ef houfet
■■ * uninhalMted houfes
dovc-cotjf, apd to what c:|tciit tkejaure d9ftrqW?t
to the crops
•*— ^ horfcs, their nature, and value
>. I cattle and ditto '
-r (heep and ditto — fwine and ditto
Minerals in general
Mineral fpring$
Coal and fuel
Eminent meq
Antiquities
Parochial records
Mifcellaneous obfervatioos
Character of the people
Their mannersi cuftoms, ftaturCi &c.
Advantages and din.dvAuiatrcs
^cdfis by whicl^ thfir iituatioin ^ot^d be meliontfpcl
C0^{,
( rf )
CONTENTS, Wo. Pa^
I. Parifli of Jedburgh ,. ^ ^ . X
y. . , Holy wood « • « 1 8
3« I Portpatrick m - «» 37
4, I Hounam • • ^ 4g
J. ■ < I Kickmicha4 ^ * ^ 54
^. •..^.« Sproufton 9 • « 65
f » ■ I ,.. LoQgformacus • * • v 69
f. ■ Lauder . » * * 7t
j^, ■ ^jtoQ » * • V 79
»e, , ' ' ■ Air - - - • 89 ^
J I. ■■ Camden «i m ^ ^ gy
12. ■ Cpylton • - m ^ lojT-
13. ,., Ballamrae* - » «» Y03
14. ■ Terreglci - - • 114 I J. , ■ I Edrom • • « • |i6 16. ■■■ iDDcrwick 1' • V izt s J. , ,i Iiinioi^ (in Peebleibire) « • 186 18. ■ Newlaods • • • I48 sp, ......^ Kirkmaiden • * ^ 153
^o. ■ TinwaU - « « * '59
«u ■ ■ CrofmnichacI - - • uij
92. -*-«-• Parton * • ^ • 184
93. ij CovingtoQ V « f • 190
Pariik
^ It may be proper to remark, that, by £bme iniftake» it was yiitted to be mentioned^ that the account of Ballantrae waa tmfiiiicted by the Rey. Mr William Donaldibn, minifier of tha^ fui% who took a rery early and aAire part in thii i&^uiry.
( xu )
Ko. tzgii
24. Paiilh of Troquire • • . 194
25. — — ^— Muiravonfide - • • 200 2j6. I Pehponi • ^ - - 203 27. ■ Cramond - • • 211 2B. — — — Dalmeoy - - - - 227 2p. • Sorbie ...» 242 ^o. • Kilteam * . 1 . 259 2 1. i ■ Rothfay • • - 301
32. ■ Kingarth . • • ^^^
33, ■ 1 Hottfton and KilaUah « * 3^5
34- ^ B'gg» :. - - ^ ZU
3j. ■ Dunfyre • • « « 227
^(j, Ycftcr A 4 . . 2^^
37. ■ Bathgate - . - - 348
38. ■ Stranraer - * . ^c^
39. — — — Kettle - • i . 2(j^
40. — — Dclting . . -. - 385
41. — *- Kilrennie - . . j^q^ 42* ■ Arngafk - . ^ ^,^ 4^^ > Dunnichen • • • ^iq 44. I 1 Garmylie • * «. 4^^ 4^. ■ Panbride • ^ * * 438
46, — ' Lunan - - - - 441
47, .. Auchterderran - - , - 449
48, — ■^— Kinlofs • • - 462
49, — — Oathlaw - . * 4«j ^o« ■ Gacurie . « . ^gp 51. ' ■ Gaik • • • 47^ j2. ■■ ■ Lifoiore and Appin * I 482 53. — — — Meigle • . . ^oj
STATIS-
STATISTICAL ACCOUNT
OF
SCOTLAND*
P ART L
NUMBER L PARISH OF JEDBURGH*
0
trom Materials furmfbed by the Rev. Dr. Thomas SoMEtt« VILLB Mintfter of Jedhrgh.
Origin aftbi Name.
IN ^ charter granted bj WiUiam the Lyon of Scotland, id the abbot and monks of Jedburgh, in the year 1 165 % the names of Jedwarth and Jedburgh are promifcnoufly ttfed ^ bat in modem times the name of Jedburgh alone is retained. The name is fometimes written with a G ; and is faid to be derived from the Gadeni, a tribe who antiently in- habited the whole traft of country that lies between Nor- thumberland and the river Tiviot. It was perhaps the caplc tal city bdongmg to the tribe, and hence obtained the taxai of Gadborgh or Jedburgh.
Vol. L a Extent.
• A fac fimilc copy of this charter ^k2& pdbliQicd at EdiiH tergh by A. Belli anno iTJii
% Stati/iical Account
ExUnt. — ^Thc extent of this parifli is confidcrablc, being about tbirteen miles long, and in fome places not Icfs than fix or fevcn miles broad ! But the figore 5s irregular, being fre. ' quently Interfered by the parifhes of Oxnam and Southdean. It is bounded by Northumberland on the fouth and fouth* eaft, by the parifh of Oxnam on the eaft^ by Southdean on the fouth*and fouth- weft, by Bedrufe on the weft, by Ancrum on the north and north^weft^ and by Crailing on the north- eaft.
SUuatkn and Surface. — ^The pari(h is fituated within the county of Roxburgh or Tiviotdale, It is the ftat of a prelbytery, (that of Jedburgh) and belongs to the fynod of Mcrfc an4 Tivtotdale. The foil is various. The lower part of the parifl), lying upon the banks of the Tiviot, is flat, and in general coniifts of light loam \ but fome part of it is gra* velifli, and fome deep clay. By far the greater part of the parifh, however, conflfts of hills and (heep farms. The hills are generally green and dry ; but the interjacent flats are co- vered with bent, and rather fwampy. On the whole, not above a fifth or fixth part of the parifh confifts of arable gFOuiidt*
ClimaUt D^qfijf bV. — ^Tke dimate al(b varies ix» different ports of the parifli. It is o&en mild and temperate in the town of Jedburgh, environed with the hi^h bapks of the ad. jacent river, while it is fharp and cold at the diflaiice of a mile or two. The town itfclf is peculiarly healthy, fewer epidemical diflempers prevaiiiDg therp than in the neigh*, bouring town& of Hawick and Kelfo» The rheumatiiin is the moft common diforder, which, though not frequent a«- xnong people of better ftation, who are comfortably cloth- ed, fed, and lodged, is neverthelcfs very general anaong the poorei^ fort of people^ particularly fuch as are advanced in
' life.
of Jedburgh. 5
lile, whOf in coDfequeoce of their miferabk mode of livings and fiiU more oi the coldocfs and daiDpnefs of their houfes^ owing partly to the fcarcity and high price of fcwel, have too much reafon to complain of what they call the pains^ or the pains within them. The air, however, on the wbolcj being very ialubrious, there ar^ many inflanccs of longevity in the pa« rifli. An old woman, who died 15 years ago, faid that ihe was 105 ; but her name was not in the pariih record. There are feveral now living, both in the town and country part of the parifib, above 8o. Many have furvived 90 during the in- cumbency of the prcfent miniftcr ; and there are three per- ions in the town', now living, who are ;^bove 90. There is alfo a ihephcrd in the 94th year of his age, who atteiads his flock as ufual. The ravages which the fmalUpox formerly made have been greatly mitigated, innoculation being of late very general and very fucccfsful. In order to reconcile the niinds of the common people to this ufcful prafticc, the he* ritors of Jedburgh, about ten years ago, allowed a fmall fum <o defray the expence of innoculating the children of the poor, at a period when the difeafe was peculiarly fatal. Thi$ generous delign was attended wiih the hap;:4eft fuccefs 4 a- mong a tbouland patients, innoculj»ted by Dr Lindiay ia the courfeof above 20 year^ prad^ice, only two have been loll^ and there is the ftrongefl reafon to believe that thefc two had been previoufly infe^d in ihe natural way* The other phy- ficiaos and furgeons of the pbce have alio been, it \% believ- o]| equally fortunate in this important branch of tlxeir pradlico.
Rivers, — ^The river Jed, which runs through this parifli, has ks fource in the north fide of the Carter-hill, in the par rHh of Southdean, about the diflance of fourteen miles from ihe town of Jedburgh K It abounds with trouts, particur
larly
• On the fouth fide of the fame hill, the river Tyne, which 9Uii% by ^^cwcaillc9 takes its rife.
4 Staiijiical JccmH
larly vtth z fpecies of fmalL red trout, of an ciodlent Bxwoar* The river Tiyiot alfo pafles through this parifli } the baaks of which at firft are fteep, and its courfe rapid, yet afterwards |t flows in beautiful curves, through wide and fertile haughs* In addition to its natural, it is to be hoped, that, in time, it will have artificial ftreams, as it is believed, from a late furvey, that a canal might be carried from the fca to Ancnim Bridge. At prefent, however, there are no internal commodities to com* penfate for thp gresit f!xpenf e which fuch a work would re- guire.
Mineral Sfrings.-^Thcre are two chalybeate fpring* near Jedburgh, and there are appearances of more in difierent placet of the pariih, which have never been yet properly inveftigated» One of the former, called Tud Hope Well, has been uied witk fuc^eft in fcorbutic, and, it is faid, in rheumatic diforders.
Hitts.T^Thc moft remarkable hill in the neighbourhood of Jedburgh, is the Duman^ which is fituated partly in the p»» rifh of Jedburgh, and partly in that of ^edrule. Its eleva^* tion above the level of the Tea is 1024 feet. The ridge of hills on the fouth fide of the parifh of Jedburgh, contiguous to the Engliih border, is confiderably higher, but arifing firom an elevated bafe, the elevation is not fo ftriking. The tops of f hefe hills are in general conical, and thofe who are attached to fuch ideas, are at no lofs to difcover a variety of circun^ (lances fayoqrable to the volcanip fyften^
Woodi. — About fifty years ago the pari(h of Jedburgh a-* )x)unded with wood. A few old oaks, elms, beeches, plains^ ^d weeping willows ftill remain. The wood, which begins f o rife fi-om the old (locks upon the banks of the Jed, together ^itl^ a Y^iety of new plantations, form a t)eautiful and ro.-
^antic
^ Jedburgh. ^
fiefic on the road from Jedboir^ to Nortkumber*
land.
Cbfi«r.— Veftigcs of artificial caves appear upon the banks of the river Jed^ particularly two large caves dug oat of the rock at Hundalee and Linthaughlce. Their di- menfions cannot now be afcertained^ being, from the fteep- nels of the rock or bank, almoft inacceflible \ but thej are defcribed by old perfons, who have formerly entered into them when the accefs was lefs difficult, as coniifting of three apartments^ one on each hand of the entrance, and a larger one behind, which had the appearance of a great room. They were probably ufed as hiding places, or ftrong holds to (hdter the inhabitants in the neighbourhood upon any fud* den incmr&on by Englifh invaders.
Migratory Birds. — ^The woodlark, bulfinch, and king's- fifher have been frequently found on the banks of the Jed. The plover, fieldfare, and dotorcl, abound in the fouth and hil- ly parts of the parilh. In the winter of 1788, during a fe. vere fall of fnow, a golden crefted wren made its appearance. The fize of it was much fmaller than the common wren ; the colour of the body nearly the fame; but the head was adorn- ed with feathers of a beautiful orange colour and gold.
Numhr of Hor/iSf Sheep^ toV.— There are 414 horfesin the pariih, and it b believed above 8000 (heep. There are fome black cattle and horfes bred for fale, but more for private ufe. A great number of cattle are bought in the autumn, and fed upon the foggage or after-grafs, and upon turnips. In regard CO Iheep it may be proper to obferve^ that the value of wool, in the neighbourhood of Jedburgh, has been greatly increaC* }n^ fprfevcral years paft. The white wool in this parifh has
beea
f Staiifiical Account
been fold at from i Ss. to 20s per ftone for the laft three yearr, and the wool laid with tar at 15s. i6s. and feme of it at i8s* In the lower part of the country, feme formers in Beaumont- Water fold their .wool laft feafon at L. i : 2 ; o per fioae. Seven or eight fleeces generally go to a ftone.
Topulatlon.'-^^Thtrt is every reafen to believe, that the po- pulation of this and of the neighbouring pariflics has greatly diminiflied fince the commencement of the prefent century. Some years after the Union, and even when the returns were made to Dr. Webfter about forty years ago, the number of inhabitants in the parifh was fuppofed to be about 6ooo. There is no evidence, however, of any particular enuineration having been made. At prefent they do not exceed half that number. The inhabitants of the town were numbered with great accuracy about fifteen years ago, abd fell fliort of 2000. The inhabitants of the country part of the pariQi do not ex- ceed 800 ; and there arc only two or three villages contain- ing about 100 fouls. The veftiges of uninhabited hou/es are to be feen both in the town and in the country. This de- creafe is partly to be attributed to the Union between the two kingdoms, by which the trade of Jedburgh was, in a great meafure, ruined, and the population of the town diminifhed of confequence ; and partly to the union of farms, which ha$ depopulated the country.
EffeBsofthe Union on the Borders. — ^The Union of the Par- liaments of England and Scotland, has in fome refpedls pro- duced an cffcft very different from what might have been expcftcd from it. Inftead of promoting the increafe, it has contributed to the diminution, of the people upon the Bor- ders. Befides, the influence of various natural propenilties, which induced men to flock to the fcene where a£llve talents
wer^
yf Jedburgh. ' f
were eonftandy ettiployedi hoDoor acquifed^ tod the ftrong« eft national antipathies gratifiedj there were obvious confider- adons of interefty which rendered the fituation of the Borders more eligible, after violence and hoftility were reprefled, by the nnidn of the two Crowns, and the confequcnt interpoli- lion of the legiflature of both kingdoms. The inhabitants of the Borders, while the taxes and the commercial regulations of the two kingdooM were different, enjoyed the opportunity of carrying on a very advantageous contraband trade, without danger to their perfons or fortunes* Into England they im* ported, fait, ikins, and malt, which, till the Union, paid no duties in Scotland ; and from England they carried back wool, which was exported from the Frith of Forth to France, with great profit* The veAiges of forty malt-barns and kilns are now to be feen in the town of Jedburgh, while at preient there are only three in actual occupation \ and the corporation of ikinncrs and glovers, formerly the moft weahhy in that town, have, Cnce the Unioq, greatly di- mini(hed, both in regard to opulence and number. The pro- prittbrs of eftates upon the Borders were well aware of thft detriment whic^ their property would rufPer by the incorpo« rating Union, and in general ftrenuouily oppofed it } and the commiffioners for parrying on that treaty, were fo fenfible of the loft they would fuftain, that they agreed to appro- priate part of the equivalent money, as it was called, to their indemnification and benefit *•
The Union has alfo been the caufe of the- depopulation of the Border country, by enlarging the fphere, and facilitating the means of emigration. While the two countries were in
a
• See Defoe's Hiftory of the Union, minute 47. obfervatidn 47-
8[ Statj/lual AccouM
a hoftile fiate^ there was neither inducemeiit nor opportimfcy to move from the one to the other. The inhahitantt often made inroads upon one another i but when the incurfion was over, they returned to their own homes. Their antipathy and reientments were a rampart which excluded aU ibcjal Inters courfe, and mixture of inhabitants. In this fituatton^ miicon- duft and in&my at home were the only motives to emigration^ and while this was the cafe, the exchange of inhabitants would be nearly at a par : But after the Union of the two Idngdoms, and' the decline or extin^on of national antipathies, the hi^ lance arifiing from the interchange of inhabitants would run much in favour of the more wealthy country. Artificers and labourers would naturally refort where wages were -high- er, and all the accommodations tsf life were more plentiful, efpccially if this could be effe£tfd without the unpleafing idea of rdinquifhing home. Totals from the Borders of Scotland into Northumberland, was rather like going into a* nother parifh than into another kingdom.
Union of Farms.'-^Tht monopoly of farms, or the conjoin- ing a number of fmall pofieflions into one, has long been prevalent in this part of the kingdom. There are inftances in this, and in the neighbouring pariflies, of individuals renting and farming lands formerly poilefled by fix, eight, or ten tenants; and there are inftances, particularly .of iheep farmers, holding two, or three £u*ms in diftant parts of the country, each of which was formerly confidered as fuffi* ciently large and extenfivc for one perfon. On the whole, this has not perhaps contributed to make the condition of d^ lower ranks of people worfe, nor to diminifli the population of the kingdom at large, though it certainly has had the e£> fcA of reducing the number of the inhabitants In every diftriA where fuch a junction has taken place.
Births^
Sf Jedturgb^ .9
Mirths^ J)eathr% and Marriages, — ^The number of births within the parifli of Jedburgh exceed 90 per annum. The burials in the parifih church amount, at an average of three yearsy only to 49 ; but then, (ome famlijesi in the country part of the parKh, continue to bt^ry in an old chapel ground, fiye miles fouth of Jedburgh, and feveral in the church* yards of O^nam and Southdean \ fo that no certain conclu* fion can be formed upon this article. The number of mar- riages, at an average for the laft three years, amounts only to %i \ but it muft be obferved, that there are many irregular marriages in this pariih and neighbourh(^od.
Rim of the Parijb —The valued rent of the parHh is L. 23,264 : 6 : 10 Scots; the real rent, probably, above L. 7000 Sterling. The rent of the land varies. Sheep farms let from 3 s. 6 d. to 5 s. per acre. Some arable farms at the rate of I OS. i;s. and even 20 s. l»and in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the town of Jedburgh, at from L. g. to L, 3. Houfes, in the town, from los. to L. 15/rr annum.
Number of Proprietors^ Tenants^ to"f.— There are fixteeo greater, and a confiderable number (about a hundred) of fmaller proprietors, called here Portloners^ from their having a fmall portion of land belonging to them* Of the greater proprietors, eight, either occafionally, or conflantly, reiide in the parifh. There are two farmers who pay above L. 300 per annum; three who pay above L. 200; about fourteen who rent above L^ 100 ; and a number of fmaller tenants. There are three phyGcians, three furgeons, and ten writers, or attorneys.
Cn^/.-~ The principal crops In the parifli, are oats and
harlcy. Of late years^ a confiderable quantity of wheat i^
Vot. I. B fown
t o Statifiical Account
fown in the ground immediately furrounding the totm of Jedburgh, and feme on Tiviot Cde ; but little or none in the fouth part of the parifli. Turnips and potatoes are a gene- ral crop alt over this country. The culture of turnips, in particular, has been much ftudied, and is greatly extended ; every farmer laying out a great portion of his land in them. The foil of this country is believed to be more fuit- 1 able to the growth of turnips, than that of any other part of Scotland. Formerly they were accuftomed to feed cattle, in tlic houre, with turnips ; but it is now found more profitable^ and has become more frequent, to let the fheep eat them in the fields. It may be proper to obferve, that, from the ex- perience of fome of the moft Ikilful farmers, calves and fheep- liogs may be fed, with great profit and fafety, upon turnips ; and that young beafts fed on turnips attain the fame fize and value, at two years old, that thry formerly did at three, when fed on graft. It was formerly a common prejudice in this coimtry, and ftill prevails in other places, that turnips were noxious to young animals.
A confiderable quantity of peafe, a few beans, a great quan- tity of clover and rye-grafs, are fown in this parifh ; but little flax or hemp, excepting fome for private ufe. Oats are fown from the beginning of March to the end of April. Early oats have been much ufed of late, and are found to be a great improvement. The barley is fown from the middle of April to the end of May ; The turnips from the beginning of June to the middle of July : The greater portion, I believe, in drills. Some wheat is fown in September, but more in Oc- tober. The wheat is generally fown after potatoes, or fal- low } the barley, and grafs feeds, after turnips ; oats upon ley, or after fallow, or pairing and burning. A greater quan- tity of every ipecies of grain, than what is ncceflary for the
maintenance
cf Je^mrgb. xi
ice of its inhabitants, is railed within the bounds of this parifh. There may, perhaps, be fome doubt with refpeA to wheat ; but It is certain that oats, and oat-meal, are ex- ported in confiderable quantities to Lothian and Tweedale.
Orchards. — A great quantity of pears grow in the gardcny or orchards of the town of Jedburgh. The trees, though very old, are remarkably fruitful \ and it is calculated that the value of the fruit amounts^ at a medium^ to about L. 300 pfr annum.
EccUfiafiical State of the Par^.^^Thtre arc four clergymen in the town of Jedburgh ; the minifter of the Eftabliihed Church, of the Relief congregation, of the Burgher, and the Antiburgher, feceders* Their reipe£live examination rolls are as follows : Eftabliihed Church 8qo ; Relief congregation 1200 5 Burgher congregation 600 j Antiburgher 1 50. Total 2750 examinable perfonsj that is, pcrfons from fix to fevcn. years old, and upwards. In order to account for the great pro- portion of diflcnters, it muft be obfcrved, that the fcdt called the Relief Congregation had its origin in Jedburgh. In the year 1755, the council, and the generality of the inhabitants of the town, applied for a prefentation to Mr£ofton, mijii- fter of Oxnam, and being difappointed in that application, built a large meeting-houfe, by contribution, and invited Mr Bofton to be their minifter ; feveral ojf the moft fubftaotial members of the congregation binding themfelves to pay him h. i%o per annum* He accepted of their call ; and prevailed upon Mr Gillefpie, who had been depofed for difobedienc^ to the orders of the General AflemWy, to join him, under the denomination of the Prefl)ytery of Relief; profcffing to diiier from the Eftablifhed Church upon no other point, than the right of patrons to appoint minifters againft the inclina- ' tions
12 Statljilcal AccotM
tioDs of the people. This feA, more accommodating to tht Ipirit of the timeS| have qukkly fpreald over bcothhd, and^ probably, comprehend the greateft part 6f the Scotch . diflenters. Near a half of all the femilies in the parifli of Jedburgh, and a great proportion of the families in all the lurroundlng parifhes, are members of this congregation. There are not more than five or fix who profefi the Epifco- pal religion, and there are no Catholics, in the pariflr^
The prefent incumbent. Dr. Thomas Somerville, was ad« raitted minifter of Jedburgh in 1773. His predeceflTors were Meflrs Semplc, M«Kay, Rnct, Wincheftcr, Douglas, and M<Knight, which laft he fucceeded in the charge. He has been married twenty years, and has two Tons and four daughters. The King is patron of the parifb. The living confiflsof 169 bolls, half oat-meal and half barley, Linlithgow meafure; L. 44 in money, a manfe, and a glebe of feven Eoglifh acres, in all amounting to about L. 1^0 per annum in value. A part of the old Abbey Church is ftill ufed as the place of wor« ihip. The manfe was built about 60 years ago, and has of« ten been repaired at a great expence.
'State of the Poor, — The number of poor upon the couiitrjr roll of the parifh amounts to 55, and of tho(e in the town roll to 37. They are maintained by aflefilnents. For fup« porting the county poor, a tax is laid upon the different pro- prietors of land, in proportion to the valued rents. The common method of proceeding in this bufinefs is as follows : The minlfier intimates from the pulpit, that on foch a day a meeting of the heritors and elders is to be held, for the pur« pofe of making a provifion for the maintenance of the poor for the enfuing quarter. Thefe meetings generaUy take place near the term of Candlemas, Whitfunday, Lammas^ and
Martinmas.
Ifaitltiinaf. Upon the day of meeting the heritors eleA ^ prefet, after which the minutes of the former fedenint, and the roll of the poor are read by the clerk. Forming a cal- culation from the number already ftanding upon the roll, and the applications made to th^m, the, heritors aflefs themfelves in a certain fum to be colle£led from them feverallyj accor. ding to the proportion of their valued rents. The proprie- tor pays one half of the aileflment, and the tenant the other. Though the tenants are not mentioned in the (ummons, yet inch of them as chuie to attend are made wckome, and their advice and information lifiened to by the meeting. The film aflefled is raifed by the heritors and kirk-feflion to- gether, in luch proportions as feem adequate to the nece^ ties of the poor. Such perfons as are reduced to the nccelli- ty of appljring to the heritors for charity, from any acciden- tal tranfient caufe, fuch as difeafe or misfortune^ receive what is called an interim fupply^ i. e. a certain fum for that .quarter only : The aged and infirm, and fuch as are likely to continue mider the lame neceffity of depending upon public chari- ty, are taken upon the poors roll at a certain weekly allow- ance. The perfons taken upon the roll are obliged to fub- icribe a bond or deed of conveyance, making over and be- queathing all their tSt&s to the heritors ; and though the heritors leldom ezaA their eflFeAs, yet the fubfcription of the bond ferves as a check to prevent perfons, who may be poi^ iefled of concealed property, from alienating the public cha- rity. The fum aflefled is levied by a collcftor, appointed by the heritors, and diftributed by him to the perfons admitted tjpon the roll, according to the proportions allotted to them. This mode of providing for the parochial poor was adopted in the parifli of Jedburgh anm 1 742, when the number of the poor increafing, from the fcarcity and high price of pro* Yifioni, the heritors and kirk*feflion were obliged to have re*
courfe
14 SiatyKad Acema
courfe to the 1^1 method of obtabing th» cOBtribntiooi of ahlent proprietors. Thefe monthly afleffinents have varied firom two IhilUngs to three {hiUings and Cx^pence^ quarter^ on each hundred pounds of valued rent. The afiefinient for die laft twelve months was at the rate of three ihiUings^fr quarter, bpt did not produce the fum required, viz, JL 37 : 8 : 8 fer quarter. The deficiency is made up from the weekly col- leAions,
The poor belonging to the borough of Jedburgh, are pro- vided for by a plan in fome refpeds. fimilar to, but ia others materially diflferent from, that above defcribed. The magiilriites hold quarterly meetings, in which they aflefs the borough for the maintenance of their poor, and portion the fums in the fame manner as the heritors do ; but the aflefl^ ment is not proportioned to the value of the property of in- divlduals within the royalty ; but according to a valuation of the property of the burgeiies and inhabitants, eftimated bj fwom afTcfTors appointed by the magtArates. The afiefTors^ in forming their calculation, and fixing the portion of aflefl^ ment to which each individual is liable, have refpeft not only to oftenilble (H^operty^ but to the profits of trade, and other fuppofed advantages. It is obvious that fuch a vague and ar- bitrary mode of calculation, is extremely liable to partiality and error.
The fums appropriated for the maintenance of each indi- vidual vary, according to the circumfiances of the claimant. To fingle perfons who can do no work, a fliilling, one fhiU ling and fix-pence, one fhilling and eight-pence is allowed weekly. Six- pence, eight- pence, tcn-pcnce to thofe who arc infirm and receive fmall wages. Eight, ten", twelve, and fometimes twenty fhillings per quarter hxvc been allowed for
interim
mteim fupply- There are l^w infiances of any fanuly rc- cd^itig above two ihUliogs* or two (hillings and fix-pence /i^r wtek. Theie proportions. refer to the poor belonging to the conntrj part of the pari(h % but the allowance given to the poor of the town » more fcanty and inadequate.
Befides the afleflbents above-mentioned| the town of Jed- burgh holds the principal fum of L. 422 upon bond to the £E£5on, arifing from the accumulation of various legacies, the intereft of which is annually diftributed according to the de& tination of the donors : Some of it for educating poor chil« dreuj fome fbr the relief of poor houfeholdersi fbme appro- priated to the'pobr within the town» and fome to the poor of the town and country equally. A great portion of thefe charities arifes from legacies of the Lady Yefteri who was the daughter of Kerr of Faimyherft in this parifli, and ee-' lefarated for her charity. A bridewell or correftion-houfe has been lately ercAed in the town, at the ex pence of the he- ritors of the county at large, and has been found very ufefiil hi overawing vagrants, punifhing fmaller offences, and, par- ticularly, for the accommodation of perfons difordered in mind, who are maintained there at the ezpence of the pa« riflies to which they belong*
Language. — The common people in the neighbourhood of Jedburgh pronounce many words, particularly fuch as end in a guttural found, with a remarkable broad, and even harfli accent. They ftiU make ufe of the old Scotch dialeft* Many of the names of places, however, are evidently derived from the Erie, and expreffive of their local fituation in that lan« gus^e. For inftance^-^Dunian, Johtfs ifi//;— Minto, Kid^s HUli — Hawick, Village on a River i^^knzvMmy anciently calU cd Alnicromby a Crmk in the Rivers &c. &c*
Manners
J 6 IStatyiUal Accma /
Manners and Morals ofthi People,— ^That U ntker a want !»r induftry in the town of Jedborgh, owing to the deftruc* tive inflaence of borough politics ; but to this rule there are manj exceptions i and the common labourers in the country are remarkable for the quantity of work which they perform. In general) it may be obfervedi that all ranks of people live more foberly, and arelefs addiAed to drinking, than they were fome years ago ; and that peribns in a better fituation are charitably difpofcd, and were particularly liberal in their contributions for the relief of the poor, after the unfortunate feafon of 1782. Crimes are becoming every day more rare* Only one inftance of fuicide has occurred lot thcfc 17 years paft ; and no inhabitant of the parifti has been bani(hed for thefe many years. Five have, fuffered capital punifhments \ but not one of them for murder. It is, indeed, one of the mod (biking evidences of the progrefs of civilization, and one of the moft pleadng cfieAs of a regular government, that in a country, formerly the fcene of depredating violence, fewer jnftances of crimes, or of puni(hments, have occurred during the laft 50 years, than perhaps in any other diftri£l of equal extent in the kingdom.
Advantages and Dif advantages. — ^The principal difad vantage under which this pari(h labours, is its great diftance from coal, which is found to be the cheapeft fewel, though there are feveral large peat moifes in many parts of the neighbour* hood. The neareft coal to Jedburgh is at Ryechefter, diftant about 20 miles, on the Englilh border.. Some Lothian coal is brought by the carts which carry grain to the Dalkeith market, and is fold at nearly the fame price with the Englifli. The county, in general, and the neighbourhood of Jedburgh in particular, is likely to derive great advantage from the ii^j- prpvement and extenfion of roads, which does great honour
to
!• the aCBvity mi public fi»rit of the gentlemen who have promoted them. There, is a tiirnpil^ umd now carried firon^ Jedbiirgli to Newcaftle^ which ihortens the diftance from thence to Ec^bu^h cpn/ider^bljr i 9nd there i$ at peefent a profpeft of carrying one, in a diredk line, from Jedburgh to BoroughbridgjB V? Tor|:i}iiiei wl^ch cpold n9t fail of being frequented, as it Would render the road between London and £dinborah nearer by 38 miles than by Serwtde.
▼ot.I, C NUMi
If Sti^lHeol'Jixntni
■ ■ IJ tfMB ER IL '
rAlilSH QF HOLT-WOOD, ■'-•■IV DUMFRIES-SHIRE.
' 1 I » ♦ . - ■'. i /. .
From Materials furn!/bfd tyiSf Rev. Ihr. B&TCB }oBMSTORj Mtnifter of that Parijb.
Origin o/tBe*Name.
HOltwood is evidently derived from the holy woody or grove of oak trees, which furrottxided a Uurge Dnii- dical templei ftill ftanding, within half a mile of the parifh church. It is formed of twelve very large whin or moor ftones, as they are c<lled| which inclofe a circolar piece of ground of about eighty yards in diameter« The oaks have now all periflied i but there is a tradition of their esufting in the laft age. Many of their roots have been dug out of the ground by the prefent minifter} and he has fiill one of thenci in his pofleffion.
Situatiofit Extent^ and Surface. — ^The parifh lies in the divifion of the county of Dumfries called Nithfdale, in the Freibytery and Synod of Dumfries. It is about ten EnglHh miles long^ and one and an half broad, on an average. It is bounded by the parifh of Dumfries on the eaft ; by Terregles^ Elirkpatrick- Irongray, and Kirkpatrick-Durham^ on the fouth ; by a {mail part of Glencaim, and by a large track of Dunfcore, on the weft and north ; and by Kirkmahoe on the north-eaft. Be^
ing
iDgfitoaMd.iaAcliniddleofLi^bfD^ Tallcy, it is In general fiat and lowland* The hilir iir ther.jparifli .aremcither l&igb norrockf« . , ..
jRfimr.--^The mer Nkh runa^along the whole of the eaft end of the pariih» iHterfeAing it» however* in one place, for above a mHe in length* The mer XSluden^ alio a confiderable one^ nnu along the fouth fide of the pariih above eight miles, and interieAs it in three placesj emptying itfdf into the Nith in the foath^aft corner of the parifli, near the old CoUege or Flrovoftry of, lanclnden, whifih ftands on the Galloway fide of the riverj in the parUh.of rTerregkK
Fyb. — ^The Guden abounds in fii>e burn troutSi a few pike of a middle fize^ aad of excellent quality, foii\e falqftgn, fome iea trout} and herlings "*. The .Nith produces the fame kifids of fiihi but with this difference, that the herlings, fea trouti and falmon, are much more plentiful in it than in the Clu- den. One peculiarity deferves particular notice;: Though the two rivers join at the fouth*eaft comer of the parifli, each has its own diftinft fpecies of falmon. The Chiden fahnon arc confiderably thicker and (hortcr in their body, and great* ly ihorter in their head, than thofe of the ^lith* The burn trouts abound in the fpring and fummer 5 the herlings and lea tront in July and Auguft 5 and the* falmon from the he** ginning of March to the beginning of October. The falmoa is in the greateft perfection in June and July* Lathe ipring it iells for about on^ {hilling a pound of 16 ounces, and gra«
dualfy
• Herlings arc a fmall kind of trout, a little fargtr tlian a herring* and fiiaped like a falmon; its fleihJs reddiih» like that of the falmon or fea trout, but confiderably paler. They abound in all the rivers in this part of the coontry,-and have the'nbrrtc of herling in all the adjoining parifhes,*
t% Std^tiau A^ctfuni
cisaHy decreafes in pric^^ as the feafon sbifauett. ta a(d. i pound. It is all (old in the town of Dmnfriciy nld to ttt fimilies in the adjacent country. Oumfries being £b near^ and many of the fifliermen living in the town, the price ia that market, and on the fpot where it is pingbt in thii^pari(h« is always the fame. The prices of the other kinds of fifli are always a little )ower than that of falmon ; and tbfy rift and lall with it. About ten years ago,' the pric^ of fifti in this country was fcarccly half pf what it is at preient. The in« creafdd price is perhaps owing, in part, to the increafed coiii* fomption, and luxury of the inhabitants, but prineipsdly to the great demand for this fi(h, to fupply the rkh' and poiptf^ lous manufacturing towns in Lancaihire \ Car, within thefe laft ten years, very confiderabie quantities of fireih falmon have been fent, by land carriage, into that country, from xht Solway Frith, and the moutM of all the rivers that run intd iu
Smt.-^Tht iUl of this parifli is of four different kinds* viaK a coniiderable tra£t of land, about a fourth part of the parifli^ in the eaft, along the river Nith, and, on the feuth, for about feven miles up the river Cluden, is a deep rich light loam, and free from ftones: ai/. Another fourth part, contiguous to the former, is a light dry fertile foil, lyii^g on a bed of fandy gra- vel, producing heavy crops of corn and grafi in a fhowery feafon; but it i% greatly parched up in dry (eafbns : 31/, An* other fourth part, which joins this laft, is a deep ftrong loam, Interrperfcd with ftobes, upon a tilly bed \ it is naturally wet, ^iff to plough, and not fo fertile is either of the two former; but, when drained, limed, and properly wrought, more pro- ductive both of corn and grafs than either of them, in all varieties of feafon, excepting oniy a cold and wet fnmmer. 4ifA, The remainbg part, which is hUly, is iba;tcwhat £milai7
t^
to tBe liflry bfily not fa dec^ and' wef i- It prbdadei a ftmS of grt&i neither fcry toe oor verj coibrfe, vkich^ in feqie of the htghdr parte of tho h31f^ is mixed'wkh helth, and a kw mMBBt nara wccos^
jUr, CUmaiif {9V<-^The ailr is drf^ ^d remarkably who]e« fiune* The fingular heal&ioeia of the inhabitants may, how^ eteTf be attributed to the following caufes* They do hot live in townst or even villages i they are not employed in fe* deatary occupations | being either country gentlemen ot far- mers, chef live in houfes detached from each other i they aro engaged in aftive employments in the opeh air i they are 'm* diiftrioiis, fober^ and chearful* The drynefs of the air is ^wittg to the peculiar local fituation of the parifh. The clouds^ intercepted by the hills on every fide, float in fogs on the top of themi while the inhabitapts enjoy a clear afid dry air in the valley^ At other timesj when the clouds break in* to rain on the hills, the greateft part of it falls on the hills, #r the fides of the valley, while the fkirts of the ihowers oAly reach its oencral parts. Add to tfaefe circumftances, that the |wo rapid rivers carry off the fuperfluous water from the land, 9nd the moifture from the air*
SeeJLtime and Harvefl.'^ht tioie pf fowing wheat is from the middle of September to the middle of OAober; oats, peafe, beans, hemp, and flax, from the loth of March to the middle of April \ poratres and barley from the middle of April to the loth of May ; and turnips from the loth to the 74th cf June. The harveft generally begins about, or before, the mkldle of Auguft -, and the crop is got totally into the bams, and barn- yards, by the end of September. In cold and wet feafons, like the h^, it is, however, fomowhat later.
MfidemUAl
n StaS/Heat Mcetmi
EfUnrnad Difiafei^-^Ka local diffempers, orfickpefioF anf kind, are prevalent in the parifli. In the months- of Febra- ary and March, indeed, fome fevers appear among the people of low circumihinces^ efpecialiy in that diftriA of the parifli which lies in the narroweft part of the valley ; but thele feem diiefly owing to poor living, and bad accommodation, during the winter feafon, and perhaps to the dampnefs of the pre- ceding months.
ManufaBures — It was before mentioned, that there are neither t(#wns nor villages in the p^rlOi, but that the inhabit tants live in detached houfes ; manufactures, therefore, can- not well cxift in this diftrid. The deamcls of fuel is an- ethei obftacle : Peats are bad, fcarce, and confequently dfar i and coals are either carted 24 miles land carriage, or brought from Ergland by water. Thefe laft would be moderately cheap, were it not for the high duties laid on them, which are as fatal to the improvement of this, as they are to many other parts of Scotland \ nor can this part of the country ever greatly improve, until thefe duties be aboliflied.
Population. — On the laft day of the year 1790, there were living in the parifli of Holywood 736 perfons, of whom there were,
Under ten years of age, - - 166
Between ten and twenty, * - 146
Above twenty unmarried, - - 160
Widowers or widows, - - * 40
Married, - - - •224
73<S Out
Oot of the 736 perlbns, 1 1 were between 80 and 90 years old, which is an uncommon number among fb few inhabi* tants. The return to Dr. Webfter of the population of Ho^ lywoody about forty years ago, was 612 fouls ; the inhabitants have therefore Increafed 124 fince that period.
AkflraS of the Bapttfms^ Marriages^ and Burials^ for the la/t ten Tears,
Years. Baptifms. Marriages. Burials.
|
I78I |
— |
23 |
•— |
7 |
— |
IQ |
|
1782 |
— |
18 |
— |
0 |
— |
20 |
|
'783 |
— |
15 |
— |
3 |
— |
8 |
|
1784 |
— |
H |
— |
I |
— |
II |
|
1785 |
— , |
»3 |
— |
4 |
' — |
8 |
|
1786 |
— |
x6 |
— |
6 |
— |
14 |
|
1787 |
— |
16 |
— |
6 |
— |
11 |
|
1788 • |
— |
14 |
— |
9 |
— |
8 |
|
1789 |
— |
n |
— |
6 |
— |
8 |
|
1790 |
^9 162 |
6 48 |
10 108 |
|||
|
Tearly average |
— |
|||||
|
nearly. |
16 |
5 * |
11 |
The great number of deaths in 17821 was owing to an in« feftious fever in the. weft part of the pariihi where the val- ley is narroweft; and the large number in 1786, was owing to the ravages of the natural finall-poz.
JXwfion of thi JnhaUtantSj and their Occupations. — All the inhabitants are fannerS| and cottagers employed by them, ex-
cepr
cept tlioft aftecwmJi mestioiied. About leu of the. idbabl- tants are fmall proprietors of landiy mhidi ihcy occnpj theoir icfattcs. There are eight veaver^t %WP blwcbess^ two (hf^e- niskts$t wo miners* five idacfcfinithsj 6r9p mafoog, fpor i^« lors, and eight joloers ( all fif whom tsfi .eipploTed In wor)4i|g for the inhabitants of the pari(h> and not m manafadhiring articles Tor fale. There are no houiehold fenrants except in •^entlemcns ftmilies, and thefe ane few. There ai)e abojtit ihirty-two male, and thirty-fix female labourbg ferrants. The greateft part of the Arming and dairy work b done by the farmers themielTes, their wives, their ioos and daiJi^tuers, and cottagers, which laft work either by the piece, or by the year, receiving what b called a benefit t that is, ahouie, yar4» peats, 52 ftones of mealj a quantity of potatoes, and as muc^ money as, with thefe articles, would; ccmmunibus awisp amqunt to thirteen pounds Sterling per annum, Befide the above mentioned fervants, ibme (hearers are hh-ed by the day from the adjacent moor countries. It is remarkable that all the inhabitants are natives of this ifland, except one perfongOnly, who comes from Ireland. There are xy> nobility reiident in ijx the parilh, and the gentry amount only to twenty-ieven perfonsj befidcs their domeftics. All the inhabitants are of the £(3babli(hed Church, except fix Camerooians, nine Burgher Secedecs, two of the Church of England, and three Catho- lics I jbut mod of all thefe denominations attend the parifli church occafionally, except the Catholics.
General CbaraSer.'^^Hhtj are a fober, regular, and ioduf' ^frious people, all employed in farming, except the-few above mentioned. They ace generous and humane, although they have not been called to the exertions of thefe qualities by any jpemarkable events, except in the years 1782 and 178J, as 41uU be mentioned afterwards. They e^joy, in a reafonabte • degree.
rf Holfwood. ^ 25
4ifftty tlie conycniencies and comforts of fpciety^^and are in general as contented with their fituation as moft people. Their condition^ howeverj might be meliorated, could the he&vy mul- tures be remoyedj which hinder improvements in agriculture ;. or coold coals be imported doty free, which checks any at- tempts to the edtabliihing manufaAures, With refpeA to the oxMrals of the people, it may be obferved, that during the time ^f the prelent incumbent, which is 19 years, only one perfon bas been baniihed for theft, and one enliAed for a foldier :. This laftj in a fiew months, folicitcd his friends to make application to get him out of the army, whijch they did with fuccels, and he has ever fince lived in the parifli an induftri* ous labouring man* In regard to other particulars, they arc healthy, robuft, and rather above the common feature. . Se- veral inftanccs of longevity have been obferved among them* Within thefe few years, three perfons have died, whoie ages were po, 95, and ^6.
Church. — ^The value of the living, including the glebe, Is about L,iao Sterling. The laft patron was Robert Be- Tcridge of Fourmerkland, Efq; the proprietor of an eftate of that name in the parifli. He died lately, and by his death the patronage devolved to his fillers, the eldefl of whom is married to the Rev. Mr James McMillan miniftcr of Torthorwald.
The manfe • and offices were all new built in 1773 ; the church in 1779 ( and the two fchool houfes in 1782,311 which bnildiogB are now in excellent repair.
• The parlbnage houfe, thus called all over Scotland, is evi- dently derived, as manfion is, from the Latin viatico^ to remain or abide.
Vot,I. D 5i^t
\
s6 StatiJHeid Atccml
Siaie ef ibi Pwr— The average number of pooTKAanwr' receive alms is fifteen. The annual fom expended for theii^ relief is about L. 32 Sterling, produced by* tlie coUdEHons in the church on Sundap, excepting the intereft of a fihall Xtm appropriated to them. Thefe fifteen perfons are alt mun- tained in their own houies, or boarded in other families } none of them are kept in hofpitals or work-hoofdi. The grcateft number of them earn about two-thirds of theii' maintenance. Thofe who are orphans under ten yean oldy or who are very old and infirm, and ' without re* lations to a0ift them, are boarded opt at the rate of L. 4 Sterling per annum. BeCdes the relief from the pariih, the poor receive frequent fupplies of food and clothes from ch** ritable and well difpofed people. They are however kept from begging from door to door moft efiTeAuaHy, by the a& furance of their inevitably lofing all parKh relief if they per* fift in the praAice. As the church feffion * is extremely at« tentive to give them relief, according to their necefiities, to provide medical alliftance for them when fickj to pay the fchoolmafter for teaching theu' children reading, writing, and the common rules of arithmetic, their own intereft in- duces them to comply with the defire of the (effion, not to beg. Beggars, however, occafionally infieft the parilb, but they do not belong to, nor refide in it.
Price of Groin nnd Prw^iw.— The price of wheat, barley^ and oits, ire generally regulated by the Liverpool a|id Gree- Bocl: markets, being juft as much below the prices at theft places, as will pay freight, and afibrd a very moderate profit f o the corn merchants, who export the grain to one or other
of
* The church fifion is tbe fame as tbe v^ry m the Englifii pari(hc«*
^ <tli«fe ptMCi.* i'or natty jrean. pad the pttee of grain ham been in .general the iSune as inihe London market, wjikh .it always a little below that of Liverpool* Grain is in ge« tnttl cheaper here about Gandlemasi the markets being then orerAocked fay the gunners anxiety to make up their .half year's vent» which is payable at that term* Cammuniht4 mnii^ wheat Is $s« barley as. ad. and oats is. ibd. the Win- chefter ba(heL The pre^t average price of beef| veal^ ■BttCtoo, lamby and pork through the year is 3 Jd. the pound *of <4 oonces, fpr thoie of the beft qualities. At particular times of she year they are all moth cheapelr ; and though at fowt periods they amoont. to jd. a poond| thefe dear times do wot laft long. The pfice of a roafting pig is 4s. } of a goofe as. ; of a turkey 2s. 6d. 1 of a dock lod. | of a ken It. I d* a chicken 3d. $ of rabbkSi though thete are fe«^ of them, is.lhe pair without the ikins^ batter is j^. the pound wf 04 ouKCss checfe varies according to its richnefs and •ge.
PfM nf Jj^imr.^^tbt wages of men latx>urers are is. ^ day from the tft of March to the ift of Novembert and lod* the icft of the year» except that in time of harveft they are ijd* I and of mowing* i8d* The wages of women are, foi^ working at peafs, 8d, ; at turuip weeding, hay makings and other (arm work in fummer, fd. i ihearing in harveft t3d. Both men and women^ fnmi(h their own provilions out of their wages. The day wages of a carpenter and a ma-» Hon are is. td. ) of a bricldayer and flater ds. $ • of a tay«
lori
* The wages ef thcfe four artlfb were id. lefs before the year 1788 I at that time an uncommon fpirit for building appearing in the country, increafed the demand for labour of that kind. This fpirit procaeeded from the general ufte for good houfes» which tnarks this period, and from manv monied men, who« having purchafcd eftates in this part of the country, are building elt-
aS Stati/HcaLMccunt
' lor, IS. witboQty or 6d. with meat. Work^ litfirar^, \^9^ xierally done by the piece. The average of £unn fervants, when they eat in the honfe, is I«. 7 for men, and L. 3 for women ; but the farm fervants arc generally paid by what is called a benefit j before defcribed } and if the man's wife and children are em{doyed by the 6rmer, their work is feparately paid for. The wages of domeftic fervants arc nearly the fame with thofe of farm fervants.
£x fences of a Lahowrn^s Fanulj. The expenc^ of t cdm- mon labourer, when married, and with four or five children, is about L. x6 a year. The wages which he .receives, tog^ thcr with the induftry of his wife, enable him to live tole- rably comfortable, and to give his children an education^^o- per for then* ftation, provided he and hisVife are fober, in* dufiriouSY and feogal : Thofe of them who are embarraflfed in their circumftances, owe their poverty other to their owb, or their wife's bad condu£t That the labourers can maintain their families at this fmall czpence, is owing to the fermers, from whom they have cottages, allowing them as much land for one yearns rent free, to plant potatoes in, as they can ma- • nure fufficicntly with aibes, or fuch dung as they can provide for themfelves ; and thefe potatoes conititute at leaft one half of their year's food.
Divi/kn and Rent of Lands.^^^K great part of the parifh is inclofed, but a confiderable part ftill lies open. The farmers feem fufficicntly convinced of the advantages of inclofing, and would willingly allow their landlords intereft for fuch fums of money as would be neceflary for makmg Indofurcs.
The
ganAmianfion^houfes for themfelves, and good farm-houfcs f<ar
ikeir flinants.
The fitfiM Wi in general firom L. 40 to' L. 15^ a year ; but there are fome few from L. 4O9 down to as fmall as L. 8. About the year 177 1 a fpiritof improvement appeared in the parifbt when the farms became larger than they had for- merly been } bbt for fome years paft they have continued nearly of the fame fize. The beft arable land is let from L. I : I r o to L. t :'fo : o ; and the inferior^ firom 20s. to 7s* an acre.' The hill {>afture is not let by the acre, btit by the hnnp. The wh(4e rent of the parMh amounts to fomething mort than L. 3000 Sterling per annum^ including houfes^ and the fmall fifheries in the Nith and Cloden. The heri- tors are thirty-one in number^ of whom ten of the fmall ones and three of the largeft reiide in the parifh. There is no map of the parifh, the number of acres in it have not confequently been precifely afcertained ; they are eftimated at about 7500. 'Qf thefe about 60 are employed for raiiing wheat, 250 for barley, 20 for peafe and beans, 10 for rye, 1 3 16 for oats, xoo for potatoes, 30 for turnip and cabbage^ 20 for flax and hemp, 500 for fown grafi, the reft is paftu- rage, except about 150 acres for roads and plantations. None of the ground is common ; and every proprietor knows the exaft marches of his eftate ; but a confiderable quantity of the hilly part mnft always lie in a ftate of pafturage, not being arable on account of the fteepnefs of the hills. Several hundred acres, however, of the lower parts of thefe un- broken grounds, are capable of cultivation, and, if proper* ly improved, would pay well for the labour beftowed on them. The greateft part of the parifh is thirled * to the
k mill
*' When the laird, /. e* lord of the manor, builds a mill, he obliges his tenanu to have all their corn ground at that mill only. The farms are then faid to be thirled, or under thirlage to die mill. But fomctimes, as is the cafe here, the tenants of one eftate are thirled to ^he mill of another, which, when the dues are high| is a great bar to improvement* .
'3S 1SM10U$1 JbmH^
nill of ClodePi aadi«7B a very high mafture *, which gKtflf tends to retard the culthation and fanprovemeDt of the diftrift.
Moie of Cultivatwm. -^Therc sre 70 phragh* in the parifli* Hide ofed in the £rft dhifion, ice p. 20. and thegrcateft part of the fccond, viz. the light foil, ace. the fioall Ejiglifli plough } ID part of the ficcond» and adjoining part of the thirds they itfe t^e Scots plough ^with the Engjiiih moiddoboard^ or plooghs compoCbd partly on the model of the old ^^ot^i and paptly on that.of the Engfiih i and in the remaining part of the thirds the Scott plough only is ufed. Each of thefe ploughs fecms well adapted for the nature of the foil in the diftrift where they are ufed^ The Engliih plough is cer- tainly the beft, but it can only work properly in land that is firee from ftones. The Scots ploughi when properly madCf 18 doubtlef 8 the fitteft for ftrong land ; and, laftly, the plough compofcd of the twoj is the moft proper for land that is compoied of the two kinds above mentioned 1 and thefe are the nature of the different foils in which the feveral kinds of ploughs are ufed. The ploughs are commonly drawn by two ftrong borfes, and one man both holds the plough and drives the horfcs, with a pair of long reins. When ftiff land Is to be broken up from grafi, three» or fometimes four horfes are yoked into a plough of the fame conflruaiQUj but of a firoQg- er make.
Proiucts'^Thc vegetable produce of this parifh has already been fpecified^ under the article, Divifian rf Land. With re- fpe£t to animal productions, it is principally diftinguilhed for a breed of black cattlej for which the county of Dnunfrics 'm
general
* Mulfure is a certain (Upulated quantity of meal, given as payment to the miller for fl;Tinding the com : And aU corn grown on farms thirled to the mill is obliged to pay multure^ whether the com be ground at that mill or clfewhcrc.
gMenl, and the noghtourfi^ coundes of tht ftetnrby and ' the county of GaUoway are alfo famoas. Thejr we vety pfofit* able for fatteoiag, and many thoiifandt of them are anmiallj ibid and fent into England. Thejr are hilidrome, of a mid« die fixe, and veigh well for their height. When fat for the bntdier, the four quarters wdgh at an average 36 ftones of 16 pounds I but feveral of them amount to 66 or 70 ftbnes. The number of Uack cattle in the whole pariih amounts to about jaoo. The iheep, which are Icept in the hilly part of the parifliy are the common Scots fheep, white on the body, but Uack on the face and legs $ they are very hardy and their wool is llrong and fhaggy, but coarfe* In the low cultivated diftrifts there are two Icinds of Eng|ifh iheep, the one long bodied and long legged, introduced into this country by Cul- ley, they are commonly Icnown by the name of Muggs 1 the other is alfo long bodied, but broad backed and fhort legged, introduced by BakewelL They are both alt white, body, free, and legs : Both of them have much finer wool, and a larger quantity of it, than the Scots (heep. Bakewell's kind have the fineft fhort wool* From an experiment lately tried, a croft between the two breeds feems to anlwer well ; viz. the ram of the Colley, the ewe of the Bakewell breed. In this cultivated diftrift and oiiild climate, the Englifh are prefer- red to the Scots fheep, on account of the greater quantity, , and finer quality, of the wool ; their being left hurtful to the hedges ; and thdr greater weight when fold to the butcher. The whole number of (heep in the pariOi, amounts at prefent only to about 1000.
The produce of the diftriA is, on the whole, much greater than fufficient for the cooflimptiou of the inhabitants. About two thirds of the whole iscarried to markets out of the parifb, Tijs. a confiderable quantity of butter, milk, veal, mutton,
beef.
^ Sta4ftical Aeama
beefy wheat, dat-meal* and barley, to Demlnesi a lafge quantitT'of wheat apd barley to Whitehaven and Livezpool ; of oats to Greenock i and a great number of young black, cattle and (heep to the towns m the neighbourhood.
There are hares, and fome fbxes^ and aU the fowls which are natives of the fouth part of Scotland. The migratory birds are the fvallow, and the cnckow. Daring the. whole year the fca galls, commonly calledi in this parUh, fia maws^ occafionallyiiome from the Solway Frith to tliis part of the country ; their arrival feldom fkik of being followed by a high wind, and heavy rain, from the fouth-weft, within twenty-four hoiirs ; and they return to the Frith again as foon as the ftorm begins to abate.
Roads and Bridgei.^^Thc roads were originally made by the ftatute labour i but in that way they were neither half rnade^ nor half kept in repair. Several years ago, an a£k of parliament was obtained for this county, converting the fta^ tute labour into money, to be paid by the occupiers of landj at a rate not exceeding las. in the loo merks of Scotch va^ luation, and a certain fum to be paid by the pdTcflbrs of houfes in towns and villages. In fome di(lri£b of the conn* ty, where making the roads is expenfive, the occupiers of land have been aflefled to the ultimum : but in thi^i and fome others, the afleflment has never been more than 6 s^ fpr each loo merks. The converiion money is very well laid out in this parifh. The roads are put, and l^ept, in a9 good repair as the fum collc£led can poiEbly do ; but, as the roads are extenfive, and, as there is a thoroughfiiir through the pariOi, from a large and populous furrounding country, to the markets at Dumfries, this fum is too fmall to keep the roads ip fufficient repair \ and it would probably be cheap- er.
«rj in the toAf to by on the fiill afleflment of 12 s. for a few jean» till all the roads are completely finiihed, and then t# reduce the afleflfipent to 4$. which would be fuflScient for ke^ng them in repair. Left the prefent tenants ibould be aggrieved by paying 12 s. while their fucceflbrsy who woidd enjoy the benefit of good roads^ pay only 4s. the landlords ihoold jpay the additional 6 s« and receive it afterwards from the fubfequent tenants at 2 s. a year^ till the landlords be re^ imboried* A great turnpike road is now making between Carlifle and Ghigow, which runs through the parilh. It will be completely finifhcd in thb county before, or about the b^ginmng of May next. The tolls upon it are moderate, and win be fiiUy fiiffidcnt for making and repairing it. This soad» like all other turnpikes under proper management, tnuft be highly advantageous to the country. The bridges in the pariih are good.- The only large one in it was ori« g^laUy built, and is fiiU kept in repair, by the county of Dumfries and ftewartry of Galloway, as it is built over the Ouden, which is the march between the two counties. The finaller ones, being all within the parilh, were built, and are kept in repair, by the pariih.
jtntifmiki. — There are no other remains of antiquity than the Druidical temple already mentioned, and two old houfes built in the tower fafliion. There is one large heap of imall ftones, a part of which was opened feveral years ago. and ' fome human bones iaid to have been found in it. The Abbey of Holywood ftood in the fite of a part of the prefent church* yard. About half of the head of the crofs of this abbey was ilanding in the year 1779, when it (erved for the pariih chuKh. Thcfe remains, however, were then pulled down, and the materials uied, in part, for building the prefent new chnrch. The veftiges of the old abbey are fufficiently evi-
Vol-. L E dent
34 ^ Siaiijiical AccotM
dent in the church-yard} and the adjoinhg fartn retains thtf name of Abbey. The prefenc church has two fine ttfned bells, taken out of the old building ; one of which, by an infcrip- tion and date on it, appears to have been confecrated by the Abbot John Wrich, in the year 1 154. From itndoubtcd tc^ cords, this abbey belonged to the monks of the order of I^remontr^, which was inftituted in the diocefe of Loon in France, in the year 1 1 20, and was fo called, becaufe, as the monks fay, the place was ^^ divina revelatione ^raeihonftra* « turn/'
' Eiymologj oflTames of Places. — ^The ifamcs of places in thir pariHi fcem to be derived partly from the Gaelic, and partly from the Englifli, ami Tome from the Danifh. The namesr' derived from the Engllfh are either expreffive of the parti- cular fituation of the places, or of the proprietor to whom they originally belonged. Thus Broofhrig^ fit uated on a ridge that produces much broom ; GooReiM, fitUated bn a rifing ground producing much gool * i Mofsjide^ fittiafed on the fide ofamofs'} <^/^|^</^ fituated at a ford in the Cluden where foot pafiangers crofs the water on ftepping ftones, that have bren placed there time immemorial; Morinton, the town of Morinc j Stenuarton^ the town of Stewart, &c. Holm^ derived from the Danifh, in which language holm (ignifi^es an ifland. From the Gaelic are moft probably derived Speddock, Barfrtg^ gan^ Glengaier, Glengaur^ M^Whannichy &c. Kill fiefs feems to be compounded of two languages, cella^ the Latin for a chapel or cell, and nefs^ or naes^ the Danlfli for. a promontory, or bead land, (it may alfb be derived from the Latin nqfus)^ Killnefs fignifying the chapel or cell on the promontory : The
* place
* GooU Dr Johnfton fays, is a weed with a yellow flower, which
E:ows among the com, on light lands, in wet feafons, abont ammas* It is the wild marygold.
9f Uoljiwood. 35
jriace fb .called is .the field wher^ the Druidical temple above soentipned ftands^ and it is. prominent intQ the river Cluden.
Emtunt Men Nafives of the P^yrjl^.— Holywood has pro- duced no men of eminence in learning or fcience^ except Mr Charles Irvine furgeon. IJe was a younger fon of the late ^William Irvine of Gribtoa. Efq; and the perfon who, feveral years ago, difcovered the p^ethod of rendering fait water frefh^ for which he was rewarded by government with a jjrant of £ve thoufand pounds.
Mtfcellamous Oi/ervations. -^Thc harvefts of 1782^ and 1783, were very late, efpecially that of 1782. Before the com was all cut in this part of the country, there were in- teole fipofts and heav^ fnows. On the 2d of November 1782^ in particular, a very heavy fall of fnow covered the corn fo deepi and by fo long, that they could not be cut for feveral days after. Though the harveft was uncommonly late in this parifh in thefe two years, and though the lateft of the com in it was hurt by the froft, yet the harveft here was earlier than in any other part of Scotland i and the greateft part of the corn was ripened before the frofts came on. Under all thefe untoward circumftances, the crops of thefe years were^ however, uncommonly good, as is the cafe, not only this year, but alfo in all late years, owing to the peculiar dryneis and ear- linefs of the foil and climate of this pariih. The ^eperal fcarcity of meal in Scotland during thefe two years, and the great de- mand for feed com from thofe counties where the frofts had deftroyed the crops, greatly increafed, as is well remembered, the price of meal and oats all over Scotland. At that time the farmers of this parKh had large quantities of both, efpe- cially of feed com, to fell ; and they cleared by it in tho(e two years, pore than they ever did in any other two years.
Thi
ijtf StayiUal Accma
The price of oat-meal was then as. 6 A. the done of \i\ poands ; higher than was erer known before or fince. In thb parifli the heritors and farmersi bj a vohmtarj contri- butiony coQe6ked mto two ftore-hoiiieS| one at each extremi- Xj of the pariihi all the meal they could, and diftribnted it among the poor laboorers and artificers at 2 s. a ftone, un- til it fell in the markets to that price ; and bj thus lofing 6 A. a ftone in the meal which they fold, they were the happy means of preferving their poor pariflxioners firom the general calamity of the country.
NUM.
* Of PehfatrkU^ ^f
NUMBER IIL PARISH OF PORTPATRICK.
Fnm MtUffkbJurmfbedh] the Rev^ Mr John M'Kbkzis Mmj/Ur of thai Parijb.
Oripn eftie Name,
PORTPATRICX is called in the old charters Port Mont- gomer^y from a noble family of that name^ who at one time pofiefled large traAs of land on both fides of the Irifh Channel. They were ennobled by the title of Earl Mount- Alexander, which became extinft in 1758. They have now none of their Scots pofleffions remaining, but their reprefen- tatives ftiU inherit a confiderable eftate in IrelaBd.
It is probable that' Portpatrick was the antient popular name of this place, and that the above family, when they be- came the proprietors, had attempted to fet it afide, and to fnbfHtute their own. This is one of the many monuments which prove, that in antient times there flouriihed in Ireland a very eminent perfon of the name of Patrick. The vene- ration for this name muft have been very great, fince, even on tlus fide of the wateri it has prevailed over that of ]tfoiitgomeryt
38 StatiJUed Accmi
SitubtioM and Sutfaa.-^Tht fituation of the town and ^ ri{h is well known, being the neareft point of the whole ifland of Great Britain to Ireland, and the beft V^^^ ^or crofling from the one kingdom to the other, the paflage be- ing only twenty miles over. It is fituated in the prelbytery of Stranraer and county of Wigton. The parifli is oif fmall extent, being only about three Scots miles fquare. The greater part is moor land, and it abounds with mofles, not only in the lower grounds, but even on the tops of finne of the highcft - mountains, where the mofs is frequently fix or feven feet deep. The common fuel is peat, which is in fuch quantities, that firom thirty to fortj^carts, drawn by two horfes each, are regularly employed during the fummer feaibn in bringing peats to the neighbouring towns of Portpatrick and Stranraer.
Town of Portpatrick, — ^The town is adouraUy fituate^. It enjoys a fouthern ezpofure, with a femic;rde of hills on ^e BOrthi which at the fame time defends it firom all the cold winds, and concentrates the rays of the fun, fo that few places in the fame latitude can boaft of a warmer climate. The common water which pours from the hills is excellent i and there is a mineral well, which has beoi found of feryi^e in common, but particularly in ftonuurhic diforders. But above all, the fea-bathing is admirable. The water is peculiarly ftrong-. and the tide rifes tp fu^h a height dofe to the ihoie, that a man, as well as a yeflel, may be inftantly launched into any depth he pleafes. In fhort, no fituation can be better calculated for a watering place, (hould the rage for theni con- tinue to prevail as generally as at prcfent,
Tie fIariot4r.^^'FQrmerlj the harbour was a mere inlet be- tween two ridges of rocks which advanced intp the fe? i the efkSt of this was, that as there is a prodigious weight of wa* • ters
Of Portpatrick. 39 '
ters thi'otm la here when the Wind blows upod the fhore, and as there was no clboW to proteA a teflel, Ihe was always oUiged; when (he took the harbour^ to run aground ; and the tsA operatioh, which neccflarily followed^ was, that the Whole ihhabitalits, meii and women^ ran down, and by maia force, dragged her up the beach, out of the reach of the waves, which wonld Otherwiie have daihed her to pieces. This ag^n had another effeA, that none but flat bottomed veflels could navigate here. It is but lately that two of thefe . large flats, which had formerly been government ffackets, were to be feen on our ihore, as monuments of antient bar* barxty*
Theft were* times of mifery, though the inhabitants were the happieft of mortals. Their continued exertions in launching and drawing up their veflels, excited wonderful fpiritf,* which they knew' how to recruit when exhaufted. Every day that a veflTel either failed or arrived was a feftival.
Th^re is now on the fame fpot one of the fined quays in Britain^ with a refining lightJioufe ; and inftead of a few flat-bottomed boats^ above a dozen of trading veflels, of from 40 to 60 tons, which fail and return regularly, befides a num- ber of vefl^eb which occafionally come from other ports. The larger veflcb are navigated at an average by fix men each *• Tlie light- houfe is particularly ufeful, and as there
has
• At this, as well as at every ferry or pafTage of great rcfort, f bere are a fet of people who make themfeW es ufeful to paflen- gcr%t but who diftinguifli themfelves alfo by the impofitions which they pradice. There are about twenty perfons of that deicription at Portpatrick, who are known by the name of the Robhcry^ from their fuppofed depradations on the public. They are abfolutely neceflkry at this port, and another body of the /kme fort are equally fenriceable on the other fide ot the CluUi*
40 Stati/Hcal 4u$uh$
has long been arother ligj^t-boufe on the Iiifli fide^ it ders the paflage, crea in the darkeft night, convenient and comfortable, like a fireet wcU lighted on both fides. The, lea riles confiderably along thb ooaft. At low water you caa. walk round the point of the pier, which at high water is. from ten to fifteen feet deep at the entrance* This bdng the narroweft part of the Channel, has naturally the eBoEt of accumulating the fluid upon the ihores, when there if a (well from a fiorm. What is further deferving of it^ mark is, that at Donaghadee, which is ajmoft dire£tty op- pofito, the fea ebbs and flows near an hour fooner than at Portpatrick. There are alio (which is ftiU more remark- able) fome particular parts of the coaft, weU luiown to our feamen, more eipecially one about two miles from the fhore of Portpatrkk, where the fame hEt i| ohferved. Within three or four miles of the Irilh (hore, when the flood re- turns, there is a regular cprrent which fets off ffax>ngly for the Mull of Galloway. It nms at the rate of feren knots an hour, and is fo forcible, that when the wind oppoies it, it exhibits, for a great way, the appearance of breakers. It Is called the Rac^ of Strangers^ and is a very curious fpedacle.
The Packet Boats to Ire/artd^-^Tht mode of conveying the mail between the two kingdoms has undergone many changes. At firft regular packet boats, with falaries, were eftabUfhed* But before the quay was builti and, while the j)afi[age was attended with the difficulties above defcribed, delays were frequent. The failors, efpecially as their wages at all events were running on, often chofc to reft themfelves. £ftabli(hed packets were therefore abolifbed, and a rule fixed.
That
nel ; but the manner in which their fees are eza^ed, particu- larly when they meet with any difficulty in the payment, is ra- ther barlh and difagrecable.
Of Port/^rkk. 4^
That vhocV^ iaUed firft ilhould. havie themall, and a certain fum for carrjring it.' This operated as a preoiiuciii and pro* 4uced, for a long Ume, a very good cffeA. Soon after, how* cvtr, as trade increafed, the ^Uowance made bf government became of .kfs coQfequcoce^ . The packets were no longer the fame. objeA* It o£|en happened, that ^ bpat wouI,d not lail with' the mail, unlefs . (he had fbntethiog elfe to carr j. The mail coach .ilfo was eftabliihed, and the conveyance of tra« ^lers became an objeft of atteotioi^* Ihr boau which carr ried cattle were peculiar!/ offeofive to pafiengers, not to men- tion that fuch a cargo, with- a gale of wind, was even dao- geronsk Faflengers were therefore difgufted or deterxxrd, and yrere often, induced to take another rout. - It was one great branch of Mr Palmer's public fpirited platis for promoting the commercial intercourfe of the Britiih empire in general^ to unite as much as poffible the three great offices of Lon- don, Ediaburgh, and Dublin. His mail coaches regularly went firom Dublin to Donaghadee, on the/oneilde; and from London and Edinburgh to . Portpatrick, on the o* ther. Nothing*) therefore, remained to complete the chain^ hot to obviate tlie inconrenicncies of the ferry at Portpatrick i this he did by reftoring eftabliQied packets. We have now four elegant veffels, fitted up with every accommodation, whofe only objcft is to forward the mail, and to convey travellers from the one ifland to the other.
The town, which is in a great meafure fupporied by the coDCourfe of travellers, has in a peculiar manner felt the be* nefit of thefe improvements, Almoft every houfe is an inn, where ftrangers may find accommodation fuited to their cir.* cutnflances. The money they leave is the great fund out of irbich the inhabitants pay their rents, and iupport their fa- jnilies. The rapid change, however, which has taken place^
Yoi.. L F ij
4t Suni^cal AumnI
Is greatly to be attributed to the late Sir James Hunter Blur, who happened to live at the critical period when the change began. He had fagacity enough to forefee the many advan- tages which ffiuft refult finom it, and forwarded the prelec- ted improvement as much as poffifaie, by filling the harbour immediately with veflelsi and building almoft entirely a new town, to accommodate the inhabitants and the travellers who palled through it. Such is the origin and the progrefs of inw provementy which is generally owingi whether in a great ca^ pttal like Edinburgh* or a provincial town like Portpatrick, to the rpiric and exertions of particular men, who (eem bom for the purpofe of roufing the multitude from a date of ig« sorance or torpor, froq[i ^icb they are too often unwilling tP be emancipated.
Jlfanij/^^tfr^/.— Manu&ftures have not* yet made their way to Porcpatrick. Ship-building is the only one as yet at- tempted. Under the aufpices of the a£Uve and public fpirited chizen above mentioned, feme companies of (hipwrights havu been formed^ who are likely to carry on that branch fuc- cefsfully. The depth of the water, and the (hortnefs of the run, render it oqe of th^ moft convenient launches that can l)e conceived.
Commerce. — Both our exports and Imports have greatly in- crea(ed. We export here goods from Paifley, Manchcfter, ^c; and we import coniiderable quantities of the Irifli linen manufaAure. The inhabiUnts of Portpatrick, however, are generally only the carriers ; the dealers are thoie who, not being fufficlently opulent to freight and load large (hips, car^ . ry on a hauking bufioefs by land« They bring their goods in carts, and hire the Portpatrick vcflcis to convey them from pne fkoTZ to the other-
Of P^rtpatrick. 4^
biflk Catt&»-«But of all the articles of the commerce of Pmpadick^ the import of black cattle aod borfes from Ire- knd is by far the moft intcreftiog. Formerly fttch a com* raerce was prohibited, for the purpofe of cncotiragiag ou^ own breed. The £ree importation was firft permitted by' 5th George til. cap. 10. $ i. for feven years, and from thence to the ecA of the then next feOion of Parliament. It was a£» terwards continued by feveral temporary aAs, and at laft made perpetual, by x6th George III. cap. 8. From the firft removal of the prohibition, there was a fmall annual iibpor- tation; but it waA never carried on to any great extent till 1784, when it rofe fuddenly without any caufe that has yet been affigned for it» In that year there were imported, be« tween the 5th of January 1784, and the 5th of January 1785,00 lefs than 18,301 black cattle, and 1233 hdrlHi, The importation of cattle and horfes, for the laft live yearsi ending the loth of OAober 1790, lias varied in the follow- log manner :
Black Cattle* tiorfesi From 10th Oft. 1785 to do* 1786 10,452 1256
■ ' 1787 7*007 1623
^ > 1788 9,488 2777
■ 1789 i3>3a* aaia
■ 1790 141873 2402
Total in five years, 5S»'4» 10,270
which, at an average, is about x 1,000 head of cattle, and 2000 hcrfcs fer afufum* Great as this importation has beeoi. It has not as yet materially hurt the £de^ or dtminiflied the price of cattle, in the neighbourhood of Portpatrick* On. the contvary,' the detnand for them has been rather on the in- creaie. It is probable, however, that it would have beea freater, had there been 00 import*
Befided
44 Stafi/lkal Accoua
' BeSdes tbc tattle imported hefe, there are alio coJOLfider* able DuoibcTB ftnt from BelfaA^ Bangor, Newrj, &c. direJUf to England* The Englilh coal vtEkh always take b^ck cattle from Ireland when they have h in their jK>wer ; but it if bdicT« ed that the largeil import is at Fortpatnck. The great ex« tent of fea bf any other pafiage, efpecially in the .winter fea* (caif is much againft the fate and fuccefsful traofpOirtation of a cargo, lo pcriihable in itielf, and liable to fo. many acci^ dents.
This trade depends (o much oppb the quantity of grais»of hay, and ofWoips in tngland^and fomctitues even upon the profpcA of large crops of thcfe articles, that there it much f^ieculatiott in it. Great gains and great lofies. are, therefore, Ittdden and frequent. Hence the iinport is Unequal. Some people fuppofe that the trade is favourable to fmuggling, and ho&ile ta the revenue. Others obje£l to it, as in a pe* culiir manner detrimental to thofe diftrifls in Scotland where black cattle are bred -, and there feems to be rather a hard* Ihtp ih permitling fuch numbers of cattle to be imported iii« to North Britain, or even carried through it, in order to rival tlie produdlions of that very country, in the only market ta w-hich it has aecefs. Without entering, however, into thefc rpecuhtiOt;s, it may be iulHclent at prcfent to remark, that the import wiH protjably diminifli of itfclf, in confequence of the rapid progreft which Ireland is now making. The time is faft approaching^ when that kingdom will be m the £ime (late in which £n[<land is at prcfent, having a market within hfelf fufflcient for the cot>rumption of its own pro- ductions. Perhaps that may foon be the cafe in regard to other commodities, befides cattle. The Irilh are rapidly im^ proving in oor manofaftures, and we in theirs, at Icail the cottons of Manchciler and Clafgow. are Ckely foon to fiip*
pJy
p^ tli« pUce of the linttis of Ireland % fiilhat in timd thd'c will remain few articles to barter between the two kingdojns.
Ff/btries,^^ sitxj cxtenfive fiihery might be efiablilhed at Portpatrick, particularly of cod ; as the Channel is there the aarroweft, and the tide the flrongcft, nobe but the heahhieft and beft fifh can live in it. The late 8ir James Hunter BUr propofied the cftahlld^iMnt of a fiihiog compapy, and, had {ic lived, he would probaUy have effected it. After his death, fome £lhcrmen came and planted their Imes, but the i;apidU ty of the tide repeatedly carried them away. Unfortunately they had not &ill eiKAigh to increafe their anchorage nor iagadty to difcover, that two ftone weight was heavier thaa one*
P^Ai/Mn.— The return to the inquiries made by Dr. Wd>fter» regarding the population of the parifli of Poi»pa- trkki about forty years ago, was 551 fouls. It has fince coa^ iidarably increafed. It appears from an enumeration recem-* ly made, that there are in the country part of the parifii, 484, and in the town, 512, fouls, fo that the whole popula* i\iom amounts to 9p<$, being an addition^ in that fpace of timc^ of 445 foub.
The bir:hs, deaths^ and marriages^ as eQtered in the parlfli regifter, for the laft eight years, are as follows :
|
'cars. |
Births. |
Deaths. |
Marriagn. |
|
|
1783 |
— . 26 |
— |
»3. |
— 5 |
|
1784 |
~ ^/ |
— |
»8 |
— 9 |
|
1785 |
— . a? |
, — |
»3 |
— 4 . |
|
1786 |
— 3' |
— |
16 |
r- 9 |
|
1787 |
— 34 |
^mm |
a. |
— 7 1781. |
|
4$ |
Suai/ttislJxtmH |
||
|
Tear*. |
Knhs. |
Dnthfc Ma |
tWU^jHt |
|
1788 |
— 50 |
— itf — |
9 |
|
1789 |
— 37 |
— 30 — |
4 |
|
■' »790 |
— 3-1 |
— tt — |
9 |
J&n# ^ /Af Ptffi}A.-^Aboal the fear 17^1, the whole pi^ 'liih wu Talaed^ for the piirpofe of alcdtainiiig the anyiitytf of the teimli or the value of the t^hes^ and k wai then eft^ mated at L. 472 Sterling. But as the mcrcafe has fince been very confiderable, the land rent alone is now about L. 1000 per€mnum\ the town rent is at leaft L. 200 more; the dua of anchorage, and a dutj of 2 d. fer hread on all cattle and liorfes exported or imported, pejsMe 10 the Bbur finnilj, may ^Ifo bring in about L. 120, fo that the rent of the pariih is rather better than L. 1300 a year.
iiiptnd^'^Thc ftipend has latdy received an aogmentatioa^ and now yields about L.80 a year. With the addition of a manfe, and a glebe of about twelve or thirteen acres. The church was built antto 1629, and has lately been repaired. Sir John Hunter Blair is patron. At prefent there are but three heritors in the parifli. There are leldom above twtlve perlbns on the poor's lift. The funds for the naaintettmce of the poor arife chiefly from weekly coHeftions at the thurch door, and cannot be calculated at moie than L, iw fer annunu
^
Languagi.^^Tht names of places in this parifli are faid to be of Gaelic original, but no perfon living remembers the time when that language was fpoken here. It is, however, nftore than probable, as Portpatrick was included in the an-
tient
tient kingdom of GaHoway, it was of confequence inhabitdl by a tribe of the Celts.
Antiquities and Natural Curio/tttes.^^Tlit Caftle of Dunfkey tt the only remariESible fattildiDg io tfar parifli. It (lands up* on the brink of a tremendous precipice on the edge of the Iriih fea, and has bpen iecured on the land fide by a ditch and draw-bridge, the remains pf which are ftill vifible. It was certainly built as a place of fecutity againft fudden incurfions in Che days of violence, and in former times muft have been cafily defended. A tftve id the neighbourhood of Dunfkey •ught alio to be mentioned, on account of the great vqie^ mioo in which it is held by the people. At the chaage of the moon (which is (till coofidercd with fuperftitious ro^ vercDct)^ it is ufual to bring, even from t ^at diftance, jom firm perfoDS, sm4 pHticohrly ricketcy children, whom thc^ often foppofe bewitched, to bathe in a -ftrtam whfch pOurs from the hiU, and then dry them in the cave*
The Cairffat^ which lifet 8oa feet above the tovd of the fea, and is fuppo/ed to be the fecood or third moimtain in Galloway, meritt alfo to be noticed. It bears all the marks of having been a military ftation, beb^ furrounded by three ftooe watts or intrenchments, with very ample fpaces between them, and commands a profpeft of Loch Ryan and of I^nce Bay, ijrbich form the peninfttla in which Portpatrick is fitn- ated ; England alio, the Ifle of Man, Ireland, and pat of the Highlands of Seotbnd, art feen rifing at a diftance.
NUM.
Smyikal AictnM
NUMBER IV.
PARISH OF HOUNAM,
IN ROXBURGH*8HIRE.
Oripn of tie Nami.'
THE porifli of Hounam doc3 not fiin>>fl^ttMicIi room far ftatifticalinTeft'igation^and the feweblervatlons which •ccur reTpefiing it^ maj be comprebeaded irithin narrow hounds. The origin of its name cannot now be ifcerraincd. There are many places in the neighbonihood, on the borders koth.of England and Scotland^ ending in am. It is believed that bam, in the Snon langnagei figniSes a habitation or viU lage. Perhaps it was originally pronounced Hounaham, or the habiution of Htena^ a name not unknown at the oppo- ite extremity of the kingdom *•
aUttaim and ExUfii tf tbi PariJb^^Tli^ fmOi is (Itiuted in the county 6f Roxburgh, in tlie prtibytery of Jeoborgbt and in the fynod of Merfe and Tiviotdale. It is of a ctrca« lar form, furrounded by the pariihesof M.or]biattIe, Jedbi^ght and Oxnam in Scotland, and bordering on the oppofitc fide with the county of Northumberland, where the top of the Fells, a range of the Cheviot bills, is the march. The pariih, from eaft to weft, is about nine or ten miles long; and ip general is about Gx miles broad. It may
be
* One of the ferries between Caithttefs and Orkney, is at ai place called Hopna.
fcs tailed a hilly or mountiinous.diftrift ; Wt the Mis ^xm gceeQy and rarely incumbered with rocks or covered with heath. The land is Wet and fpungy; the foil light« an4 better calculated fbr grafs than grain* The air is healthy^ and the people long livedo l^hree perfons who had refided in the pariih from their youth, died lately, at the advanced age wf lOO*
Shfip. — The principal circumft-ance for which this di(h-i(n; is remarkable^ is the Kale- water breed of (Iieep, fo called from a fmall ftream running through the middle of the parifb. The fheep are of a moderate fize, and produce excellent wool. Their tiumbe^ ufually amounts to 1 2,000. Attempts have been made to improve the breed, by croiling with a larger kind, but the experiments did not fucceed. Though the iheep became lar- ger, and the quantity of the wool was increafed, its quality was inferior. The moft approved ftock-farmers, however, have not the Icaft doubt that the wool might be brought to flill greater perfedion by proper management, and by crpifihg with (hecp nearly of the fame fize, but whofe wool is the fincft poffibie. The (heep not only produce excellent wool, but, as the farmers term it, ihcyfeidnvell^ come to a tolerable good &U when fat> and are exquiiite mutton.
,t PrM&r^ff/i-— The quantity of grain produced is very in« conllderable* Several df the farms in the higher part of the parifli have fcarcely been ploughed in the memory of man. The foil being light and fandy, Excellent turnips might be railed. Some have been produced in the parifb weighing above a6 lbs. av6irdupolfe. But the farmers have not as ye; fucceedcd in railing this ufcful root, though they arc extreme- ly fcnfibie of the great advantage that might be derived from V91.. !• G if.
j^ Statiftiad Accciua
k, particular fat Ihe fprlbg. The farmers are lil gederlft tddt late in lowing them. Tn^ips. cannot be raifed to a great Aze in this prt of thecountrjTy aolcft they are fown abotiC thtf end of May or the beginning of June ^ but the farmen in.thd parifli of Hounam are conrfiderably later.
Sent of the PariJb.^Thc land-rcn*. is L. 2720. It has rifc!t more than a third within thefe lad fifteen years. The valued rent is L. 914 : 4 : 9. There are 2 heritors in the pcurifli, 2 of whom are refident. There are only 14 farm^, which, a£ rn average, are from L. 250 to L. 300 per annum* The number of flieep on a farm is from 50 to 100 fcore.
State of the Churchy fe'r. — ^The walls of the charch were repaired about 40 years ago ; but the building is f^ill very bad, axid worfe than, any place of Wor&ip in the neighbourhood « The Duke of Roxburgh is the patron. The prei'ent Incum- bent is Mr James Rutherfordi Who was admitted in March 1775. He ii married; has a Ton and five daughters. The manfe was built in 1776, but is placed too near the river, and confequently in a damp fituation. The (^ipend, from the Re* volution, amounted to L. 75 in money, and 21 bolls of vic« tual. Jn confequence of a late proeefs of augmentation, the Tiftunl ftipend is now fixed at 6^ bolls. There b no pa- rochial fund for the poor, excepting the weekly coUedlions^ and quarterly aiTeflments laid on the land-holders and thei^ tenants^ which yield, at an average^ aboiut L. '^optr annom.
Population, — ^Thc population oF the parifh has of late con- fiderably diminifhed. The return to Dr Wcbfter, about 46 years ago, was 632. The liumbcr of inhabitants is at prefcnt 365. Of thcfc^
Ohe
CfUomamm st
One hundred are below ic years of age ^ ico
forty-nine are above lo and under 20 years • 49
Eighty are between 20 and 30 years «... 80
Qne hundred between 30 and 50 years - - xco
Thirty-fix above 50 years « • . 36
Total number 365
The number of burials do not exceed 4 each year. The Vrths are fvOm 10 tp ia,.|exdufive of the foftaries, who are indeed bot. few, and have a regifter of baptifms of their own. T)ier€ is not even a village in the pari£h; a few houfes ^ear.lbe phurch not defer ving that name. The number of Virths, about a century ago, viz, from the year 1689 to the year 17079 . feem, at an average* to have been 30 in the year. From the Unioii of the two kingdoms, to about the time of the laft rebellion, the average number of births feem to be $0 a ye^ From that time^ the births have gradually de* ^eaStd CO the prefent number of 10 or j 2. The wages of men lervants are between L. 7 and L. 8 ^ of women about L. 4. Fifteen or twenty years ago, the wages of men fer- vants were about L« 5, and of women fcarcely L. 3. The Ifs^esof tbeibepherds, who conftitute one half of the parifli, confift of a certain number of cow^ and flieep to grafe on the farm to which they belong. The people enjoy a confiderable d^ee of the comforts of li/e. They are chearful and con- tended p and there arc but few poor.
The great decreafe of inhabitants, within the lafl: 40 years^^ is evidently occaiioncd by the too general practice of. letting the lands in great &rms i but may be, in fome meafare, ow« ing to the mode of agriculture almoft univerfally adopted in the pariih^ (efpecially fince ilieep and wool brought fo high
t price), of -conrerting the arable into pafture laod. 'Tk<f lands^ 50 or too years ago, were parcelled out into at leall fear times the prefent number of farms* As hte as the year 27509 five tenanfs^ with large femiltes, occupied a farm now^ rented by <^nc tenafit. Theve were a1(b» about tfaefe times, feveral fmall, but proud, lairds in the parifh. Their bnds arc new lofl in the large farms, their names extiogaifhed, and * their manfions totally deftroycd.
Antiquities. — A Roman road, or Jlreet as it is conmooFf called, which can be traced to the ibuth as far a^ Borongh- bridge in Yorlcfliire, runs through part of this parifbi it after* wards pafles by St fiofwell's Green, where the £iir is held, ami then bends its coorfe towards the Lothtans. The obly itkYket antiquity worth mentioning, is an encampment at the fop of Hounani Law, which is the higheft hill on the border excepe the Cheviot, It was of confiderable extent, and within tiieiil few years a large iron gate taken down from the top of thtf Law* was to be fcei^ at Cefsford Caftle belonging to the Duko pf Roxburgh. There are fmaller encampments on tlic tops of the other hills in the neighbourhood, either made by thft Romans When they invaded this country, or formed in tlMS courfe of the many wars in which the Borderers of England ahd Scotland were anticntly involved.
Fuel. — HHt principal difadyantage under which this parifl| labours, is the fcarcity of Aicl. The common people bum turf or peat. The rcfidcnt heritors and the better fort of firmers bring coal from Northumberland, partly in carts, from a place caUcd Etal, about 20 miles diftant, and partly 00 horfe^backf from ISirciJiopccraig, The latter fpecies is abundant, and by far the mo^'t valuable; and it is a fortunate circumftance tat the kini^dom at lar^?, that the bpft fpe^ics of filcLlboiild be
found
fcond em in the interior parts of Nortbumberlaiidt is fuch confiderable quantities : It coald eafilj be conveyed to thtt fea by a canal ; and that beft nnrfery. of Britifli feamen, which depends on the Tupplying the great market of London with coals, may be thus prefervedi even though thejr fiul |o the pei^hboprhood of the ^aft»
WVU
Ztatytkal Aeemml
N U ^J B E R V. PARISH OF KIRKMICHEAI^.
prom thi Cwnmumcatims tranfmitied by the Rtv. Dr BuRGESf Minifer of that Parf/b.
Namfj Exttntf and Boundariis.
THE derivation is obyioufly from St Michael to vhom the Church was dedicated* It is iituated in the pref- byteiy of Lochmaben^ in the county and Synod of Dumfries. It conilfts of the two parifhcs of Kirkmicbael and Garrel, which were united about the year 1663, or 1664. The form of the united par'iOies is nearly elliptical} being about tea miles long and four broad in the middle. It is bounded cm the fouth*caft by the parifh of Lochmaben, on the fouth by Tinwald and Rirkmahoe, on the weft by Clofeburn, on the north-weft by Kirkpatrick Juxta^ and on the north-eaft by the parifli of Johnfton.
Stf f/ir/.— The upper or north-weft part of the parifli is hilly, and chiefly covered with heath, except only a few fpots of ara- ble ground on the fides of the river Ae, and the rivulet called Glcnkill-burn. The lower or fouth- caft part is in general plaini but interfperfed with fcveral riling grounds covered
with
M^Itcafh) ttd feme large peat mofles whkh Supply ihe-i^* habitants with fael. There are now no open undiFicM commons s but there is, in the lower part of the parUh, a ^onfideraUe extent of ground itill lying tmimproTed^ Id the cftate of Kirkmichael and the barony of Rofs^ and in tWf other finall properties, befides plaotatioim there may be 150^ or nearly aoo acres of natur:»l wood* There is much marihy ground, which, if properly drained aoi cultivatedi might tura to good account.
Soil ami PfWi/rr.^— The foil on the fides of the riirer Ae is the weft, fouth, and fouth-eaft part of the.pacUh is very fer«- tile, producing wheat, oats, and barley in great plenty4 the middle parts are moftly dry and gravelly ; but produce oats, barley^ and peafe tolerably well } the eaft fide, eijpeciaU ly by the fide of the river Kinnell, is very fertile* In ordina- ry years, between 6 and 10 thoufand ftones of oat meal ar^ fold out of the parifh after the inhabitants have been fuppli- cd. In the remarkable years 1782 and 1783, the cropfi were not only fufficient for the demands of the inhabitant^ but allowed a confiderable quantity to be fold in the act- .jacent pari/hes. For the lad thirty four years, no crop was (9 bad as not to furniih the inhabitants with provifion, and leave a great quantity for the market. The reafon of thi^ fteady fertility fcems to be the effeAs of the depth and moii^- ture of the foil, which circumftances, though they .may re** tard the harveft eight or ten days lat^ than in .the pariflies immediately fouth of it, render the ground lefs liaUe to'be hurt in dry feafons. Flax, l^emp, and grafs, are rarely fowa in the parifh. The fowing feafon here ufually begins about the loth of March ( and in good years, the harveft is con«- ckdpd about the ift week of OAober i but this year having
bees
keen wucoromMf wM, the harveft was coadttckS milf oA the ttitk of NoTembef.
*' j£ry CAmaii^ mii Difiafis — Vtmx the qaality oF the foili the ftnge of high mountains on the noith^weft, and riven •nd burnt which ran on each fide and acf oft the parifh, the air is neceflarily moift } bat, from the rapMity of the rivers^ the afar it freqaenttf changed, and fddom foffered to ftag> siate« The inhabitants are remarkably healthy. There have been no epidemical difeafes for thefe laft 34 yeafs, except the fmall pox and meailes, which have never been uncom- moxAf mortal* Rheumatifms are the moft prevalent dlf* «rders«
PefulaHan. — ^The number of inhabitants is 950, v!2. 50$ males, and 44; females. The proportion between batchelors and married men, including widowers, is at one to four nearly. There were no records prior to the year 172^, and the records which were kept from that time to 1759^ are (b inaccurate, that it is impoffible to judge of population for- merly. About 30 years ago, the number of inhabitants was about 730 ^ and confequently the increafe iince that period IS 220 fouls. The increafe feems owing to the divifion and cultivation of a very large common, and the improvement of ether lands. The increafe would probably have been much greater^ had it not been for the practice of leading farms as h 4s called ; that is, a farmer on one fann pollefles at the lame time another fmaller farm, which is faid to be Ud along with the other. About fizty years ago, the number of farms was above 20 more than at prefent ; and, within thefe frw years« feven considerable farms, that formerly had numerous fam*^ lies reiiding on them, are now M along with otiien, and «re confequently uninhabited.
The
^ KirkmchaeU ' 57
The annual average number of Urths is 26 \ of burials 1 8 or 19; and of marriages oearlj 6^ aod each marriage pro- diicesy »at an average, 5 children. There are at prcfent 60 perfons between ^p and 70 years old \ and 25 between 70 and I DO. One man in the parilh is 103 years old. His ac« count of him/elf \%^ that he was born in the borrowing days * of the year that King William came in, and that he was bap- tifed in buUwgs^ {i. e. fecretly), by a Prefbyterian minilter ' the following fummer, as the Curates were then ia the kirks. Though he is now moftly confined to bed, he retains his mental faculties very diftinAi and three years ago he wrought St the harvcft in perfefit health and fpirits. A weaver who died a few years ago, remembered his being feveral times employed to ride King William's dragoon horfes to water, when they were going to Ireland before the battle at the Soync.
Otatfaiiom and Divi/ion of the InhaUiantu^^Thtrc are 6q hxmeni the average of perfons in each family is flue- taating and uncertain, being ufually more in fummer than in winter) there are 4 blackfmiths} 4 carpenters } 3 mil- lersi 4{hoemakers; 6 taylors; 16 weavers i 3 dogmakers^ 3 little merchants i i furgeon, an old man. Mo nobility or gentry refide an the pariih. There are three fmall villages in the parilh; the largcft confiiUng of joo fouls, and each of the other two of about 70 or 75. They Utc on three large com Eumt, on which, with their own induftry, they fubfift pretty comfortably. The people, in general, are oeconomical and mdttftrious. Very few of them have gone into either the army or navy thefe many years. They enjoy, in a rea- fonable degree, the comforts and advantages of fociety, and Vol. L H feem
f That is, on one of the three laft days of March i688.
51 StAityiical Account
feem to lire contented. They are in general cliaritably diC^ pofed. The namber of Secedersi Cameronians, and Relief people, young and old, are about 50. All the reft are of the Edablillied Church. There are no Catholics nor Epifco*
palians.
Rent of Landi.'^Tht land rent of the pariih amounts to ebout L. 2300 1 and, if to this be added the interedi at 1 o fer cent, on L. 2000 of graiTunis, the whole will amount to about L* 2500^ The valued rent is 43 1 5 merks Scots.
Church. — ^The living, or ftipcnd, is L. 55 : 11 : i^, with L. 3 : 17 : 9y, for defraying the expences of the facrament. The glebe confifts of about 1 4 acres of high lying land, which, with the manfe and garden, could not be rated at above L. 10 a year. The Duke of Qncenlberry is the patron of the old parifh of Kirkmichael, by a charter from the crown ; but, as the patronage of the okl parifli of Garrell is not in that charter, and as Garrell was a mcnfal church of the Arch- bifliopric of Glafgow, the crown claims the right of being vice-patron of the united parllh. Dr Burgcfs, the prcfcnt incumbent, was prelentcd to the charge in 1759; he is now a widower, with an only daughter. ITie two pari(hes were united in 1660, but not without fome difficulty on the part pf the parifliioners of Garrell.
The church of Garrell was buJit in 1617; but Kirkmi^ chad becoming the place of worfiiip afrer the union, of the two parifties, it was fufiered to fall to ruin. The church of Kirkmichael was partly rebuilt, and fomewhat enlarged, in 1729, and covered with flates in place of heath, with which it had been formerly thatched. It was repaired again, and fgnCderablv enlarged, by a late decreet of the Court of Scf-
fiooi
tf KtrkmichdeU Hjg?
fion, md the chttrch^yard furrounded with a gdod ftone and lime wall, and coped with free ftone. 1 he manfe was part- ly new built, and partly enlarged^ in 1729, and has had two or three r^airs fince that time ; but it is fiill rather a cold uncomfortable dweilingt The number of heritors is 8 *, of whom only 2j of fmall property, refide in the pariih.
State of the Pr^r.— The poor receiving alms are only 5 ; who arc fupportcd, partly, by weekly collcftions, which^ with fmall fines exadled from delinquents^ and dues paid for marriages and baptifms out of the church, amount, annuaiiy» to L. f 4 or L; 15, and partly by alms, in meal and other Viftaak, given them from houfe to houic, or lent to cheai when unable to go about the parifh. There are no legacies or mortifications, nor as yet is there any need of them.
tn extraordinary cafes of diftrtfs, we have a cuftom which deferves to be taken notice of in a paper of this kind \ and tliat is, when any of the lower people happen to be re- duced by ficknefs^ tofleS| or misfortunes of any kind, a friend is fent to as many of their neighbours as they think needful, to invite them to what thty call a drinking. This drinking confifts in a little fmall beer, with a bit of bread and cheefe, and fometimes a fmall glafs of brandy or whiflcy, pre- vioufly provided by the needy perfons, or their friends. The goefis Convene sit the time appointed, and, after collciEUng a (hilling a-piece, and fometimes more, they divert thcmfeves for about a couple of hours, with muiic and dancing, and then go home. Such as cannot attend themfelves, ufually fend their charitable contribution by any neighbour that choofes to go. Thcfe meetings fometimes produce 5, 6, or 7 pounds^ to the needy perfon or family.
Woods.
^a SMi/iicai Account
Wosds.^^Kt to timber, bcfides a pretty large wood of far* reft trees, with exteofive plantations of common firs, pitch firs, illver firs, laburnums, beeches, oaks, planes, lunes, &c. on the eftate of Kirkmichael, there are feveral of the rarer i'pecies of indigenous trees, the Prunus padus, i birds cherrj], Viburnam opulus, (water elder), honeyfuckles, buUaces, and mountain aihes.
In the barony of Rofs there was, till within thefe laft feven years, an extenfive wood, called Knockwood, confiding al« jnotl wholly of excellent oaks, which was iokl by the prcient proprietor for about 80o guineas i and, unfortunately, has not ijnce been properly fenced from the flieep and cattle in the neighbourhood.
As to rare plants, of the lefs ufeful kinds, there are, in the parifh, the Pyroh rotundifolia, (the winter green), An- dromeda polifolia, (the marlh ciOus, or wild rofemary), tke Lichen veatofus, (or ftorm liverwort). Lichen venofus, (pr veined liverwort). Lichen burgenfii, (or crowned liverwort), with feveral others.
The number of black cattle, on an average, 9tt eftimated at between looo and I200j (heep from 8000 to X 0,000; and horfes at above 100. The wild quadrupeds are foxes otters, badgers, hares, wild catf, polecats, erminei, and wts- fcls. As. the cftate of Kirkmichael abounds both with nato- ral wood and planting, there is, of courfe, a confiderable va- riety of bu^ds. Befides black cocks, moor-fowl, partridges, plovers, wild ducks, teals, and fnipes, there is great plen- ,ty of the rarer fpecics of birds, the land and the water rails« the quail, the miflel thrtiih, the pine and the common bullinch, the wryneck, the goldcn-crcfted and the willow-
wrens,
tf KirkmicbaeU Bi
wxcDS^ the redftait, the creeper, the flycatcher } with the doD^ the grej, the bam, and the hprncd owls.
Of migratory birds, there are the cuckow, the goatfuckei^y the fwift, the hoofe and window fwallow, the fand martia or river fwallow, the curIeW| called here the vjbaup^ the bp* wing, plover, or tewit, the king's fii^icr, the fea lark, thtf fandpiper, the greater and lefler terns or fea fwallows \ with gulls, mewS| ihelldrakes, divers, &c«
The fand martin ufaally appears here about the middle, or towards the end of March, and departs about the ift of Sep* tember ; the cuckow about the aoth of April, and departs about the iftof Auguft} the curlew and lapwing about the middle of March, and depan about the middle of Auguft i the houfe and window fwallows about the aoth of April, and depart from the 4th to the'30th of September ; the fwift and goatfucker arrive about the commencement of continued day- light, (1 /. here, about the lothof May), and depart about the end of it, in the fecond week of Auguft ; the king's fifher comes up the rivers about Chriftmas, and ufually.ftays about three or four weeks ; the fandpiper, fea lark, and mew, vifit and ftay through the whole of the breeding leafon ; indeed, the gull, mew, and (heldrake, are often here in the winter, when the weather is mild.
With regard to mineral fprings (—there are fevend veins of iron ftone and ocher in every quarter of the parilh, and confequently many fprings of chalybeate water; but none of a ftrength fo remarkable as to be any way noticed or fre- quented. There are two lochs, or lakes, in the parifli, viz. one towards the head, of about two or three acres in extent, afparently very deepi but without £i(h of any fdrtj and an- other
"ۤ Siaii/iical JccotM
Mother near the foot, containing ten or twelve acres^ in whidk there are a great number of pike and eel, but not fo nome- reus as to ferve the neighbouring inhabitants as an article of food.
Price of Prciftfions.'^Abont 40 or 45 years ago, a beef cow, %hich at prelent cofts from L. 5. to L. 6. and fometimes 'md^i could have been purchafed for L. 2 : 2 : Oj or L. 2 : i o : o, at the utmoft. A fat ewe or weddcr, that fells now at 1 2 s. or 14 s. could have been bought thcil for 5 s. or 6 s*; and Veal and lamb in proportion. Pork was little ufed here till . Within thcfc laft 20 or .30 years; it is now very generally catcts, and fells at 3 d. 3I d. and 4d. the pound, according to its goodnefs, tnd the quantity that happens to be in the market. Geefe were then to be had at 8 d. or 9 d. a-piece ; ducks at 3 d. or 4 d. } hens at 4 d. ; chickens at i^ d. and 2 d. j but- ter at 4 d* the pound, equal to 24 ounces averdupois weight ; cheefe at 2 d. per pound ; oats from i s. to i s. 3 d. the Dura- fries peck, which is equal to the Winchefter bufhel *, bear aqd barley from i s. 2 d. to it. 6 d. Wheat was feldom fown here at that period. At prefent, all thefe prices are greatly locreafedy and fome bf them confiderably more than dou- bled.
Price of Lahur. — ^The general wages for day labourers b hufbandry, and other work, is 8 d. with viAuals, or i s. with- out them \ carpenters, bricklayers, and maibns, have ufualiy I s« 6 d. or I s. 8 d. ; and taylors 8 d. and their viduals. In general, the wages now paid to workmen of every defcription are double what they were 20 or 30 years ago. The wa- ges of male fervants, about 30 years ago, were from L. 3 to L. 4 a year *, at prefent they are between L. 7 and L. 8, and fome ftill higher : Maid fervants, at the above period^ had
from
of KirkmchaeU <f ^
fitnn L. 1 : 15 : o to L. 2 : 5 : o a year ; thej now get from Jl 2 : 10 : 0 to L. 4 : zo : o.
AntiqmiUs. — ^There are feveral indiftlnft remains of an* tient fortificationsi but no traditions about any other than a fmall fort in the Knock Wood, called Wallace's Houfe^ faid to have been thrown up by Sir William Wallace, after he had flain Sir Hugh of Moreland and, five of his men^ at a place fiill named, from that event, the^ cwrfes^ u e. the ^ (orpfcs ; and where there are two or three large ftones, which feem to have been fet up 14 remembrance of fpme fuch tranfa£lton.
There are fome fmall tumuli, or cairns ; but none of them have been opened, nor have their contents been examined.
There are feveral barrows, or burraos, as they are called here. They feem to have been intended for folding cattle at night : And it is obfervable, that, when one of thefe bar- rows is on one farm, there is always one oppofite to, and within call of it, upon another. This has probably been done with an intention, tbac^ in cafe of any inroad from the £ng« Ii(h Border, whoever of the herds or keepers firft obferred the enemy, might give notice to, and be ready to affift^ the other, either to defend, or carry off the cattle .to places of greater fafcty.
The only Roman works in the parifli are, a branch of the great road that led from Netherby in Cumberland to the chain of forts built by Lollius Urbicus, between the Forth and'the Clyde, that can ftill be traced through a mois, and feems to have terminated at a caftellum, which is now the minister's garden, and of which two fides remain ftill very diftinft.
About
64 Siatijiical Jccaimt *
Aboot fix yean zgp, there was found, ia a fmall piece of peat mofk^ near the line of the road above mentioned, a prettjr large pot^ of a fort of bafe copper, and a decanter of the fiune metal, of the ihape and iize of our white ftone quart decanters, with three feet, aboot i \ inch long. 1 hej were both fent by Dr Burgeft to the Society of Antiquaries at Edinburgh, and are in their muieum. They were thought to be Roman. They might have been thrown into the place where they were found when the Romans left the caftelium^ perhaps purfued by the natives, and obliged to abandon (bme of their heavy baggage, to expedite their flight.
NUM*
NUMBElt VL PARISH OF SPROUSTOM4
ij the tUv. Mr RoBBRf TuftNAaLL*
iiiuathn and Surface* ^TIHIS parifh is fituated in the county of Tiviotdaley pttt^ X bytery of KeUb^ and Tynod of MerTe and Tivlotdale. It IS about fizEngUfl^ miles long, and (bur broad; being bounded by the parilh of Carham, in England, and by Tet- holm, Linton, Kelfo, Ednam, and Eccles, in Scotland. . That part of it which lies by the iide of the Tweed is flat, and liable to be overflowed % and the com is frequently f#ept off the ground. The fouthem part of the parilh is higher ground^ though not hilly. The foil^ by the fide of the Tweed, is ex* cdlent, and very fertile t No part of the pariOi, however, h barren*
Cultwathn^ Produce^ and Rent.—Catn of all kinds, clottif^ rye^gfafs, flax, turnip, cabbage, and moft forts of garden ve* getables, are raifed in this parifh. Oxen and fheep are fed on turnip with confiderable ph>fit. The magnitude of farms^ which of late have been increafing, » fepiited a grievance* A farm was lately let at L. 1 :72operacre. The valued rent of the pari(h is L« 13,263 : 6 : S Scots 1 the real rent is about L. 43^0 Sterllog. There are four poflcflbrs of landed property ; but
VoL«X I none
Gb Statijilcal Account
none of them refide here. Agriculture is greatly improved. More corn is raifeJi and au>re ctf tic and ihecp are fed for the marketi than formerly.
Church nftd Sliptful.^Thc church and manfe were built about ten years ago. The ftipcnd, including the glebe^ mzj be valued at L. 1 2o. The Duke of Roxburgh is patron.
Population, — ^The populatioUi as is thought, has not varied for thele forty y«ars paft. There are many perfons between 70 and ICO years of age. The number of foub in the pariih is fuppofed to be about looo. It is probable that the popula* tion has diminifhed conflderably fince the year 17 14; and the union of farms is perhaps the caufe of this diminution. The annual average of births, from 1714 to 1750,'is 37 ^ from 1750 to 1790, is 30. The moft numerous clafs of artificers are weavers ; there are 30 in the village of Sproufton ; 8 ma- fons, 'and 4 carpenters. There are about (So feceders in the parifh.
Pcor.— -The annual average of the poor, from 1737 ^ 1758, is 33; and from 1758 to 1790, is 18. ITie average of the monthly diftributions to them, during the firft of thefe periods, (from 1737 to 1758) is L. 3 : 18 : 10; and the ave- rage during the laft is L. 3 : 19 : 1. The oldeft records that could be found of the poors rates, begin in the year 1737* The mode of providing for the poor in the fhire of Tiviot- dale, and the only legal mode, though not univerfally obier- ved, in Scotland, is this : The heritors, ^ith the minxfter and elders, have the power of making up a lift of the poor, and aiTefling for their monthly maintenance. The afTefTment con- tinues fix months I the heritors paying the one half, and the tenants the other, according to their refpcftive valued rents.
Perfons
Of Sproujion. 6j
TctCons who become objefls of charity, from Hckncfs, or other caufes^ are relieved by the feilion ^ut of the weekly collec« tioDS« The poor live in their own houfes. The cffcfts of .'11 the poor carolled are inventoried, and fojd at their deceafe, which i$ a check againft impofitions.
Price ofProvt/toni and Labour. — 'Ihe price of all kinds of provifioos, efpecially of oatmeal^ has greatly increafed ; and, if potatoes had not been introducedi the price of oatii eal muft have been ftill liigher There is a coniiderable advance in the wages of all fervants. Men, during harveft, receive L. 1:4:0, and women L, i, with diet } a man hired for a day I s. ; and a woman 10 d. Forty years ago, a man's wa- ges, in harveft, was only 8 d and a woman's 6 d. a-day^. A cottage muft give the &rmer one reaper. A labourer gets 1 s. a-day in lummeri and lod. in winter. His wages are fufficicnt to enable him to bring up a family. Taylors wages are lately advanced from 4 d. to 6 d. and 8 d. a*day.
Ff/b. — ^The Tweed, which runs along the north fide of this parilh, abounds with falmon. They fell high in the fpnijg, the greateft part of them being fent,'by Berwick, to London $ but the prices vary confiderably j and, in fummer, they are tolerably cheap. There is a projeft for carrying a canal, along the Tweed, from Berwick to Kelfoi or even higher.
Mifcellaneous Ohftrvattons — Sea fowls appear here ^n great numbers in the fpring, about feed- time; they follow the plough, and are thence called fted-birds. Coal, the only fuel uied here, is brought from England. The roads are bad, owing, probably, to the ftatute labour being commuted. It is the general opinion that turnpikes have improved the coun<
XI
69 Stati/ttcal AcMoU
dy. Onlf one filicide has been committed in the conrfe of inore than forty yean. The people, in general, are contented imd induftrioas; (heir condition, however, would be melio- rated, if they had better houfes : Their manners and cut toms remain the fame as formerly \ but drel^ and the mode 9f living, arc much improved*
NUM.
Hf Lmifwmacus^ 6^
N U M B E R VII.
PARISH OF LONGFORMACUS.
Bj the Rev, Mr Selbt Ord.
Name, Situation, and Surface.
IT b uncertadn whence the name of this parifli is derived. It is in the fhire of Berwick, prefbytery of Dunfe^ and ijnod of Slelib. It is twelve miles long and fix broad $ fur- nninded by the parUhes of Dunfe, Langton, Greenlaw, Weft- mtherj Granfliawsy and Abbey St Bethun's. It is qaite hilly; being in the midft of that ridge of hills which divides the flat and rich lands of Eaft Lothian from the beaatiful, well in- dofed, and highly cultivated plains of Berwickfhire* The greateft part of the furface is covered with heath, eaten by Jinali Uack ftced iheep, which, when removed to good paf- tures, may be fo fatened as to weigh lo or la pounds the i
quarter* j
Culthmtim and Produee.— The lands near the rivers Whit- adder and Dye, have been improved by lime brought from Zaft Lothian at the diftance of 17 miles, and have been made to raife oats, barley, peafe, rye-grais, red and white clover, and turnip. But the farmers are prevented from great exer- tions by the high renu, the great expence of manure, the badnds of the roadS| and the diftance of markets. The in-
creafe
^9 Siatl/lUal Actctif4
creafe of corn is from two, or even one, to iix. The preleot land rent amounts to L. 1700 a- year. There are 9 heritors. The patron of the pariih, Mr Home, is the onlj refiding one*
Climate and Population, — The air is dry, cold, ai)d piercing. The only difeafes are rheumatifms and cutaneous diibrders, which leem to be occaiioned by poor food, damp houfes. and want of cl^nlineis. Population, owmg to large farms, to the tenants reiidmg at a didance, and to part of the lands being tiirned entirely into pafiure for (hecp, is on the decreaie. The number of fouls is 452 ; of families. loo} of perfons from 16 to 60 years of age» 112. The number oi births, in thefe laft fix years, is 47 i of marriages, 21 j oi deaths, 27* Maoy people bom in this parifh being obliged to feek employment in other parifhes, all who die in the parifh not being buried in it, and thofe only regiAered that are buried here, the deaths bear but a fmall proportion to the births.
PooTf and Wages. — ^Therc arc 5 families, confifting of 13 perfons, upon the poors roll. They receive L. 15 fer anmtmi which is raKed by weekly coUeAioos at the church, and oc- caGonal cefs upon the lands. A labourer's wages is i s. a- day \ mafons and joiners, i s. \ taylors, 6 d. and their meals. Houfehold men fervants wages are 6 or 7 pounds per annum, and women, 3 and 4 pounds.
Mifcellaneous Ob/ervaticns.'^Thc fiipend of this parifh is L. 100. There are about 70 horfes, 500 fcore of (heep, and aoo head of cattle. There are favourable appearances of copper ore. Attempts w^re made to work it a few years ago ; but patience and perfeverance were wanting. Some cart loads of ore were dug up in making a road : The prefent
miniftcr
X)f Longformacus^ . 71
minifter fmcltcd fomc of it, and found it very rich. There are two hills of a beautiful (hape, known by the nanie of the Dirrington Laws. There is a heap of ftoncs at a place called ByrecUugh^ 80 yards long, 25 broad, and 6 high. 1 hey were collcfted, probably, by fome army, to perpetuate a viftory, or fome other remarkable event. The moffes and moors in the parifli fuppiy the inhabitants with fuel ; but tome coal is brought from a diftance. The people, accuftomcd to the paftoral life in their early years, arc rather inclined to indo- lence and cafe. Their condition might be improved by the introduAion of manufadhires.
NUM.
7» Stafifiicai Acaum
NUMBER VUL PARISH OF LAUDER*
By tbi Riv. Dr James Ford.
\
Name, Situation, and Surface*
THE name of Lauder feems to be of Celtic original, de- rived from the word iadty which iignifies the paflGigCt or courfe, and fonietimes the mouth, of a river ; and it is li<* terally applicable to the fituation. It is fituated in the high- eft part of the Merfe, or Berwickfliire. It extends about eight miles from north to ibuth ; but the bulk of the parifh is con- tained in four miles, upon the ftrath of Lauder water. It is bounded by the pariflies of Channelkirk, Stow, Melrofe, EaflftoD, Legerwood, and Weftruther. The (oil is rather light and fandj. It is in general fertile; and, of late, has beea highly^cultivated. The ground rifes gradually from the riTcr, on each fide, to hills of a moderate height, and moftly green. They are covered with a mixture of heath and juniper, which makes excellent iheep pafture.
Cultivation f Produce, Farms, Isfc, — ^Thcre may be about nine fquare miles in corn and hay grafs. Sown grafs, for pfture and for hay, is much cultivated* The hay fells from 4 d. to 7 d. per ftone, according to the demand. Good crops of wheat have been produced \ bat this grain is thought to be
toe
^J Lauder. 73
^ exKauftiog for the Toil. Excellent oaits a«d barley are jaifcd, and exported weekly to Dalkieth amd Edinburgh, tfpccially oats and oatme^. The foH produces flax in great perfection j but, at prcfent, it is only cultivated for the ufe of the inhabitants* Turnip and potatoes are reared to a great extent; and fiieep and oxen fed iiere with much advantage. The average rent of farms is from L. 50 io L. 150 p€r annum. In the neighbourhood of Lauder, the land lets from 20 to 40 (hillings per acre ; but the average rent of arable land is from 5 to io fluUings per acre. Since the late improvements in huftandry commenced, fome farms have been divided into two -or three, and fome fnialler ones have been united, acr cording to the ikill or ability of the tenant. There is little land inclofed, except in the neighbourhood of Lord Lauder- dale's lioufe. AU are convinced of the advantages of this pra£lice^ and it will probably advance with confiderable ra- pidity. There was formerly abundance of natural wood, efpecially on the low grounds, and by the fide of the river. It was long ago wed out \ but the proprietors are beginning to plant again.
MifiH^a/j, £5*tf— There jp-c fome copper mines, but, it is fuppofed, not fufficicntly rich to defray the expence of work- ing, Moor-ftone is cvcrj where to be met with. It is ufed for incloilng, and is very proper for the purpoie, being large and flat, l^e flate found here is of an inferior quality. Ad- der-ftones, arrow points of flint, commonly called elf or fairy Jlones^ are to be icen here; and, in the neighbourhood, Jlones of fanciful (hapes, as of fnails^ worms, and other animals. They arc found after heavy rains, by which they are wafhed out of iliixT beds.
^A^.^The number of fiieep produced and fed in this pa-* Vol. L K rilh,
74 StatifiUal Aaatmt
ri(h, ts fbppofed to a0K>unt to io,ooo. The breed is, of kte^ conGderably improved. Taking the produce of this, and of the neignbouring parifhes. into cooCderationithe town of lau^ der feems to be one of the beft fituated places in Scotland fer the eftabliihment of a woolen mano£i£h2re. Turnips arc .much tultivated for feeding (heep ; but, iince the late game aAy the hares hive become fo numerous as greatly to injure the crops of that valuable article.
Populatlon.r-Thcrt are at prefent about looo (buls in the pariQi. Its population has been increafing, particularly fince an eafy communication was opened between difierent parts of the country by means of turnpiipe roads. 1500 of the inha- bitants are above i o years of age. About 1000 of thele re- iide in the country part of the parifh, and the iiemainder in the borough of Lauder. The annual average of marriages is about 8 or 10; that of births and deaths about 30. £ack marriage, at an average, produces 5 children. The people, in genera}, live long ; Many have fiicvived 90, and fonoe even 100, during the incumbency of the prefent minifter. Some are below middle (Mature, many above it ; and the fize of not a few is upwards of fix feet. The people are, generally, ftrong and healthy. There are about 40 farmers in the pari£b, an^ a confiderable number of artifts in the borough and country* There is in this pariih a feceding mipifter; though the num« ber of feceders is but fmall. There are two writers, and two furgeons. As this parifb, when Dr Wcbfter made his in- quiry, contained only 17 14 fouls, it has increafed^ witl^a 4^ years, ^bout 300 in population*
Churchy and Stipend. — ^The church of Lauder was original- ly a chapel of eafe to Channel-kirk, or Childrens Kirk, being dedicated to tbe boly lanocents. At the RefocmatioQj JLau-
der
^ Laudei^. 75
46t ^rlt mUde t t^Mchial charge. At firft, the church ftood ta the north fide of the town, fronting Lauder fort ; and it ^ras in this old chiitth that the Scotch nobility were aflem- Ued, when they .deteiteiiied to make a prtfoner of James III. $ Bod the houfe in which he was feized is ftill ftanding. The iBpend, including the glebe, is between L. 90 and L. 100 per %i half moneyi half vifhiaL
Pmt.— The number of poor in this pari(h is about 30. Their maintenance amounts to about L. ^o per annum s ari* fing from afleflmentsi Sunday's colledions, and dues for lend- ing the pall^ called in Scotland the fmrt-cUib.
Wages. — The wages of a country^ervant is from 5 to 7 pounds per annum t 6f labourers from 9 d. to i s. aday 1 of carpenters, mafons^ and gardeners, about i s. 3 d. The price of every kind 6f labour is greatly increafed; reapers wages are almoft douMed. The wages of women fcrvants have advan- ced from 20 to 40 {hillings^ a^/MTOT ; and of fuch as work at turnipsi and milk ewes, to L. 3 per half year.
JUsJie/bnemis Obfirvatlens. -^The air is pure and healthy ^ and this place has been often called the Scotch Montpelier. The land rent of the pariib may be about L< 6coo Sterling. There are fix heritors of rank, only one of whom refides in the parifli. The number of feuers, or fmalier pofiefibrs of land, is confiderable. There are about 100 ploughs, and many of them of modem conftruAion.
For 30 years paft, much improvement in education, man* tiers, and the mode of living, as well as in feveral other parti- cvlars, has been introduced into this part of the country. In a courfe of about 10 miles, between louder and Tweed, the
river
I*
76 SiatyUcd Auomt
mcr turns between 20 and y^ miila, fomeof whic& hx^ been lately ercOed for the purpofe of grinding barley aad wheat. There are now tompike, parochial roads* and bridges made, and kepf in good repair, by the toUrbar mo- ney, and ftatute- labour comoiuted into money according to the number of fervams and horfes. The turnpike roads hate been the caufe of many other improvements. Coal, lime, and the cftabli(hment of a woden mannia^rc, arc want- ing. The people are generally a£Hvc atid fpirited, and have always been ready to engage in labour of any kind : Many of them are, at prcfent, both in the army and navy. The poor, in general, confider themfeWes aUe to biing up a family with an income of about L. 1 2 Sterhng.
In 1782, and 1783^ the fituation of tj\e inhabitants wai truly deplorable. It was the end of December before the harveft was finifhed, after a great part of the crop was dc- ftroyed by fro(t and fnow. None of the farmers could pay their rent ; fome of them loft from L. 200 to L. 500 Ster- ling. The country, however, was greatly relieved by the im* portatit>n of white peafe from America. Many found great advantage in feeding their cattle with furze or whins, beat into a ma(h. The poor were relieved by the expenditure of the public funds, which fupplied them with grain at a mo- derate price. There Were likewife feveral liberal oontribu- . tions for this purpofe. But the fituation of this part of the country, and, it is believed, of all the fouth of Scotland ^ was ftill worfe in f 766 : In confequence of a parching drought during the whole fummer, two thirds of the cattle wertf flaughtercd nt Martinmas, and fold at 3 farthings a pountL Many of thofe that remained died at the ftall in the fubfc- quent fpring, after having confuted all the flraw that could be provided for them. Bear ftraw fold at i s. 6 d. per thre ave.
Prior
t^rio^ to ^St^ period^ zK>t above four or five foiall beeves were kiUe4 in Louder market at Martinmas Siace that time^ ix| confequence of the cultivation of turnip and grafs, ttiere hag been plenty of the bcft beef and mutton through the whole year.
Peat and turf were formerly uf^d }iere for fuel; but, fince the turnpike roads were made, coal, though tranfported fromi the diftdnce of 1 5 miles, is ufed for that purpofe both in town and country. The farmers find it moft for their advantage to bring home liniie in the fummer feafon, and coal when rdi* turning from Edinburgh or Dalkieth markets: Thefe two, with Kelfo and Haddington, are the markets neareft this pc^ rifli.
Anttquitia.^^h confiderable quantity of Spanifh, Scotch'^ and Englifh coins, have been dug up. The antiquity of the firft rftcnds no farther than the age of Elifabcth. The Scotch and EngliOi belong to the age of Edward Longfh'auks, and Alexander I. of Scotland •, and fome of them arc of a later date. The miniftcr of Lauder is in pofleffion oF fome of thefe coins, and ai(o of fcveral Roman coins, whofe infcrip- tions are, Lucius FlaminiuSj Julius Caefar^ l2tc. There arc many Piclilb and Scotch encampments in this parifh and the rieighbourhood. All of them are of a round or oval figure, and are called rings by the common people. The Roman encampments Were fquare or reftangular ; but none df them are to be feen in this part of the country. The largcft Scotch or rtdilh encamp.nent in the parifh is on Tollis-hill, or Tuliius-hiU. It is on the road between Lauder and Had« Kington, and is fuppofed to have got its name from a Roman army palling through this country, and cummandcd by aTuU lius. Many tumuli are to be feen in Lauder moor, on the
old
)^ ^tattjticai Actouni
old rotd to Mdrole, where it ii probable fbine Initles !uit6 been fbttght, as fragments of fwords, bows', and arrows, art Ibund there % but no record or tradition is known concemio^ them. The arrows -were pointed with flint-ftdne, uperin^ from ike janAore, about an Inch long.
Lauder fort. — ^Towards the north of the tower of Lander, by the river fide, ftands Lauder fort. This fabric is neai* 500 years old. It was built by Edward Longihanks, wha had over-run Scotland. It was rebuilt, and converted into a dwening-houTe, by the Duke of Lauderdale, in the end of the hift century. There are fome noUe apartments in it, and rich fttocco work, according to the tafte of that age. One of the old apartments is prefcrved as a curiofity.
KUM«
ijf Aytm. ^J|
NUMBER 12.
PARISH OF ATTON,
By tbi Hiv. Mr Ggo&Gg Ho HI*
Nami^ SUtfoiimy fjfc.
THE pariO) of Ayton (cemt to uke its name from the water of Eje* It lies in the county of Berwick, pref« bytery of Chimfidei and fynod of A9erie and Tiviotdale. The parlfhes by which it is bounded are Eyemouth and CoI« dioghaoEi on the north, Chirnfide on the weft, Foulden and Mordington on the ibmh, and by the fea on the eaft. The pariih is about 4 1 miles long, and 4 broad z It was once of larger extent, when Lammcrton, Rofs, and Shiels belonged to it. The foil is in general fertile, and particularly adapted for the turnip hu(bandry. There is about 2 miles extent of feacoaft. The (hore is high and roclcy. Ihe hills in this pariih lie chiefly in the fouthem extremity. The foil of fome of them, efpecially of a ridge of no very confiderable height, is in general well adapted for producing corn or grafi*
Cultivation and Produce — ^Agriculture has undergone a great change in the courfe of a very few years. Inftead of five or fix fucceffive white crops, the farmers will feldom allow two to follow each other ; for they derive confiderable advantage from introducing a green onCj and occafionally. fallow, be-
tweeo
tb StatiJKcal Account
tween the white crops. The experience of this neighbotnw hood has rather a tendency to prove, that money expended in the cultivation of moor lands has feldom turned to a good account, and that planting is the beft mode of improvement; the effcfts of water, however, has not been tried. Umc o- peratcs at firft, but lofes its tSt(\ as a ftimulus upon a fecond trial. Though the appearance of moor lands may be chang- ed by culture and artificial graiTcs, they will not feed well ; and, when wet or cold, are believed to lay the foundation of fhe ret in flicep, a diftemper which proves extremely fatal.
Two horfcs only, are at prcfcnt ufed in the plough here, inftead of four oxen and two horffs, which was formerly the praflice. They will perform the fame quantity of Imboor equally well, and in much (horier time. The £ngh(b plough is chiefly ufed in this parifli The lands produce, moft of the common vegetables, plants, and trees. Artificial grailes are much ufed. Of late the farmers here diredled their atten* tiou, and v ith great fuccels, to ftock. 1 hey find that the lands iu graib make a profitable return. By feeding, too, the ground is enriched for future crops. The advantage of teed* mg iliecp on the lands, in the proper (eafon, with turnip, if fenfibiy felt *, acJ this pradlice is fuppoied to be preferable to a fummcr fallowing ; and is, at the fame time, no lofs to the farmer. «
Plantations of all kinds of trees are much encouraged by the prcfent proprietor of the cftate of Ayton, which contri- butes greatly to enrich and beautify the country. His lands fomc years ago were all run^rig*^ as was very much the cafe,
particularly
* A common field, ia which the different farmers had diffe* tent ndges srlloted them in different years, according to the nsi^ turc of their crops./
if Aytm. 4i
jiorticalatly upon tlie boarders, with a y\em to engage the people to a mutual defence and proteftion of their property, ia times of turbolence and hoMiity. Thtj are mtm divided, have convenient farm»houfe^ bnd are highly improved. Harvefts are rather ear^ here tEim late. The greateft part of the lands m this parifh is inciofed ivith hedges. Fences cf this kind are recommended bbch by their' beauty and uti- lity. "Hie rife of rent feems to have operated here as a fpur to exertion aAd improvement in agriculture. The farms have rather decreafed in number. Some -of them, though but few, extend to 500 or 600 acres*
jtsr and Dtftempirs -»The dr is dry and falabrious. The fogs ariCng from the fea feldom penetsatc above a mile from the ihore* The ague was very common prior to the improve- ments and indofirig of lands j but fiace that time this difor- der has icarcely been ki^own here, excejtt during the laft ve- ry open winter.
Hor/eSf Shefp^ fa^r.— The horfes bred and ofed here are flender ; but they are very active, and able to unJergo much fatigue : They have advanced much In value. The breed of fheep is both good and larger their weight, at an average, is about 18 or 20 lbs. psr quarter. Four of their fleeces yield a ftone of wool. Five (hcep may be maintained upon an acre of fonie of the bed lands. l*he number of flicep in this parifh, till within thefe ten or twelve years pad, was fmalL Great advantage arifes from the large breed btcly introduced : Befides yielding more wool, they are fit for the market in two years time 5 while flieep of the fmallcr fixe require to* be kept tliree years before they are ready for the market. The wool of the large flieep is^ without doubt, of a coarfer quality $ but this difadvantage is VoL.L L mora
Sa Statiftiad Aecount
more llum cpmpenratcd bj the quantity. Oa rich biuk even the fmall kind of flieep would incxeafe in fize, and their wool becone more pleociful, though of an inferior quality. The wool fells from 12 s« to 15 s.- per ftone. Oxen here are commonly fed till they weigh from 60 to 100 ftone.
Fijb, — The water of Eye contains good trouts, but not in any quantity. Cod, ling, haddocks, whitings, flounders, holr Ijback, mackrell, and other kinds of fi(h, are caught here ia their feaibns. Lobfters yield confideraUe profit \ they are chiefly bought up for the London market. Herrings ha?e been got in great quantities ; but they, as well as the other kinds of white fifli, have failed much for thefe two years paft. The fifliermen have lately difcovered the method of catching turbot, which brings a good price.
Populjtion.^-An 174X the village of Ayton feems to hare contained about 320 fouls, and the country part of the parifli about the fame number. In 1773 the village contained about 360 fouls : The numbers in the country part were alfo id- creafed. In 1 780 the number of the inhabitants amounted to 1 146, of which 420 were m the villtgc, and 726 in the country part of the parifli. In the prefent year, 1 790, the number a« mounted to 1245. '^^^ village contains 147 families; there are ao2 males and 229 females above ten years of age, and 5 1 males and 47 females below 10 years of age. The country part of the parifli contains 136 fancies, which confift of 263 males and 3 io females above 10, and 53 males and 90 females be- low lo. From this ftatement it may be remarked, that dur* ing the laft ten years the population of the village has re- ceived an addition of 109, while the country part of the pa- riib has fu&ered the decreafe of 10 in its numbers. On the
whole,
vhole, the increafe of inhabkaiitt witto the laft 50 yeati^ maj be Ibled at aboVe 6oo«
VUkge pf AjiM,*^T\xt viUage of Ayton » fitnated on the banks of the Eye. About 30 oew houfcs have been feoed in it within die(e if years ; they confift of two or three fto* riesy and are covered with tyles. The Tillage has been im- proved by ranging thefe new buiJklings upon a ^eafant flop« iag bank fronting the fonth.
Ma$mfaBiirts^'^k paper-mill was htely creAed here at confiderabk cxpence. It employs about 70 or 80 wOrk peo- ple, and circulates Kbout L. 25 per week. The wages earned by the paper-makers are high. This manufaAure gives em« jrfoyinoit to tf number of young perfons^ who are taken in at eight years of age. There is a wind-miU here^ which was a pretty eztenfive work. 'It maoufaAured a good deal of flour doriDg the American war, but has done little or no bufinefs fioce. ' lliere are four water-milb in this parUhs one brew- Cfyt which ddes not carry on an exteniive trade ; a bleach- field, which was eftabliifaed many years ago, and fucceeds s h employs about 7 or 8 hands*
Cbartb and StifemL^^Thc parifli church appears to be an old edifice, and has lately received feveral improvements^ which its former ftate rendered extremely neceflary. The ilipend, including 'a late augmentation, and the value of the glebe, is about L. 1 35 f^r annum. The Crown is patron.
P^r.— -The number of the poor belonging to this partfli ia variable. The heritors and tenants are aflefTed to the extent of L. 30 or L. 40 per annum for their fupport. To this fund is added one half of the contributions at the churchy which.
fU. Siaii/bad Jewmt
diftributed under the infpcAion oi jtho kirkrfiRAw in oora* iional charities* FaFt of it, together with the money aiiGsg ifom marriufcs aod'the aTeioC tbr paU^in^ut-clocJi^is applied to educate poor chikben aud pay cliucch officers. I^bc ex» pence incurred ba the 0}aioteo;>oce of the parpclM4 ppor baa incrcafed near tW0 thirds c)uring the ^ncnfubeaq; qf t|iq prc- fent miniftci^ Tjie people in jf neralx h^^rcyjer^ campot bear the idea of being put oh the poor's roll, cvei^wbeirthey aro in diflrefs. Duriifg a late period of Ibarcity meal wis pur- chafed for the uff of poor honfpholclers, and fold- at. a very nio^ derate price }• but few applied for the- benefit ot t\a& aid^ c^« cept thofe who were accuftouied to.i^dsf^ cbwily*
; Price of Pfwifiom.^^The price of biitdder meat J^ from 3^d. to 4d. ^r lb. £ngl:(b weight ; it has ad^fMice4- about I- d. pir lb. within ihefc 6 or 8 yeays* T)ic pricp gf. pork is variable. Haddocks, i^hich fold forxftqrfy, at 4 4/ ok 6 d. per fcore, now often bring as much a piece. A goofe.U ibid here tor 2 s. i a pair of docks for i ?-. y± j a pair of )ien$ for i s. dd, V A turkey for 2 %. 6d.'^ blotter Ms fof ^4^ and cheeie for 4 d per lb. The prices of grain, n^fi j be sifcect^^ioed fi-om the fiars of the county.
Wages. — The wages of a- labourer arc ^ s. a day ^ a car- penter's and mafon's, is. 4d. ^ a taylor's, 1 s. Tbrefhing of corn is ufually paid by what is termed Ut^i. t. i boU is aUowcd* for every 25 boUs that are ibrdlicd, rhc^ wages of a mafon and his labourer, &c. arc generally fettled at fo much a rood. A hind receives 2 bolls of barley, rbollof jxrafe, and lo.bolls of oats ^ he has a cow's ^rafs, a houfe and yard, and as much ground as will fcrvc to plant a iirlot of potatoes. He is like- wife allowed whttt coals he may have occafion for in his £»>
mil;.
/ff fftft, load,; in^ji^lfi^ the (olb | « the carriage 4s eqi»l (048^ per load. The hind's wife reaps ia harveft for the^v^Cr ; He has alfo L. i allowed for ffaeep'ti graft. A nan fenrant receur^ fcoin JUs-to JU 7 ftr amum^ #ith bed find boa^dr % maid ftrvam frMi JU».2ritQ,L.4 ptfA
JkAp!^<---T|ktM ate lir^era) r^^ The*
£rjt-was a fociety oC Afttibnrgher^; Tbei? Mvnbcr is y<rf fmaU« Their ii»}ni^ is provided .vtidi a 'iQrygo^ci'twulfi^' and reieans fr0m ihcm^ perhaps^ . ab<>ift L« 40 fn atmrnid There It aVb a J^irghrr ttiectiag-'hotrfc: itr^he village^ rather . of a better appearance than the other $ the fkSi of SecedeaT' wh6 altcad it are more. Dunkerotn .than the fiitmer» .and of . priixipfes )a¥>re ac^faoMsdating to the- tiaaes*. They aUo^ provide. a houTe for their aaimfter>> and allow bias probably^ 'L.6q9rU joffr^ofim/m. Both iOK^lhoulcs liave befif buik fince the <f 773* Though a eonfi^itra^le naoober have att^clw ed themliekes to the diiTerent fe£biriesi yei» being coo^pofed- of the. infierior vaaib$ of the peoptes. their defefUcm has na< diminiihed the contribution for fhe parochial poor.* Little^ allotted by thein to the maialleoaiure of their own poor ; jct they contribute with seal, many of thcqi with libcrafity ill, fujted to tU^ir circumftancos^ for the ilipport of their ccclc->\ fiaftical eftablilhment.
Roads. — ^The roads in th^ parifii are getting ii^o good re- pair. The poll road is now made, and fupported hj two' tumpiices, which were latcljr erefted *, ohci at the cxtreinity of the county towards £aft Lothian, and the other at Berwick. Ex>uod$* When they were firft propoled, th^y met with keen Oppofition ; but they have fince been umvcrfally acknow* kdged to be of fignal benefit to the CQV^Xrf. The it.itute
kbour
S5 Staiytkai Aitmait
labour is commuted. - Potting up thfe rotdi td ao^bon* lia« been the mean of getting them made mncb cheaper than formerlj*
Impnvemeriis fuggijlii.'^lt ivonid be an ad^Aitage tothh parifli, as well as to EyenlieoA, if the tnail^coKh would drop a bagi containing fuch letters as are addreficd to the inhabi- t^tf of eachi which wonld relies them from the cxpence of fendmg to Berwick or Pv^ If the woolkn or cotton ma- nufaAtre were introduced and encouraged here, the condi- tion of the people might be greatly improved. To take the duty off coals carried cooft-^ways to Eyemouth, as b done at Dunbar (to which port Eyemouth belongs) would great* ly promote the eftabliihment of manufaAures. Tliis du- ty yields Ixit a mere trifle to goTcrnmenr, and fobjeOs the people here to a ftate of entire dependence on Northum- berland for fiiel. As the coal hills adjoining to this part of the country are almoft entirely engrofled by one peHbn, ic would be rather furpriCng if he did not avail himfelf of this advantage, by keeping up the price of lb important an ardclc.
Mifcetlanews Oi/ervationf.'-^Thc kelp made here Is fuppo<ed to be about 15 or 20 tons annually. There are fome quar« ries in this pariQi, the (tones of which anfwcr for buildingy and are fuppofed to be impregnated with an iron ore. Free* fione b confined to a fmaU part of the ihore. The free-ftone muft be tranfported to the harbour of Eyemouth, and then carried by land. Corn is carried to market in carts, which have been ufed here for the fpace of 40 or 50 years. On the hills on the fouth fide of the pariOi are the remains of two camps, fuppofed to be Roman or Saxon. Several urns, and broken pieces of armour, have been found here. In the loi^ grounds towardi^tbe nOrth-weft| are the veftiges of three en- campments^
^ Ajtmp Af
«iiipaieat% thought to have been Daniih or PiAiih. Hifio- r; m^ntiops ihe ca(llf of AytoD» but fcarcely any veftiges of it now remain. The names of places feem to be derived chief* I7 from the Saxon. There is one public, and two private fchoob in the parlih. The eftaUiflied fchoohnader, as is too gffoerally the cafe, has not a provifion adequate to the im- portance of fuch\a charge. There are two white thrqui- makers m the parifh. There are two or three bridges \ one <tf them was built by aid from government: They are of great utility. Two boats crews only belong to Ayton.
In 1 6731 there appears to have been 24 heritors, including pc^oners and feuers, in this parilh : In 1790, there are about 14. At the former periodi they were more diftingui(hed by £uiuly and rank. There were 6 of the name of Home^ each of feme diftinJUon ; now there is only one of that name ; their lands having been difpofed of by the great heritors. There are, however, feveral defendants of portioners who mil retain their pofleiEons.
The people, in general, are difpofed to induftry. Since the induAion of the prefent minlfter there is a very vifiUe change in their mode of living and drels^ Uliough the &rms are much higher rented than formerly, yet the tenants are, in every refpeft, much more expeniive than they were 15 years ago. Tradefmen and labourers in the village are ad- diAed to the pernicious habit of ufing tea. Of late, alfo, from the low price of whiiky, the execrable cuftom of dram^ drifJung b gaining ground, even among the women of the lower dafs. Habits fo inimical to health, induftry, and mo- rals, ought to be checked if poifible. Two perfons belong* ing to this parifh have been banilhed from Scotland fince the incumbent was fettled. He knows only of one perfon who
has
j#> Stat^ical Aiemtl
hats been guilty of fntcidc. There is no ^tit *of «in^Ioyiolit for the people. Thej fcttn coheented with their fitoatioii and circamftanceii and are wt ftrangor* ta tht comibrtttf life.
This phriih has feverad adtafliMgc*. It k aear aurfceti, fbr difpofing of grainy cattle, or ftod: on the iarmsi hcS^g 7 miies from Berwick ahd a from lijaaiouib. k is at no great difttnca from coal : The price, howtPret^ coofideriog that diftanoe, is certainly highk The poft^road to London ^oes through the parifli : And the vicinity of the fea affords a good fupply of moft kinds of fifh. The pariflk of Ayton (does much more than fupply itfelf with prorifions.
HUM*
'^Jiri ' W
!NUMBER X.
i»ARIS^ri OF AIR.
£y ike Rev. Dr Dalrympls^ and the Rev. Dr M<GtLL%
Ifampf Siitfoiwf^ Extent, &f/, and Surfice^
THE name of the town, parifh, and county of Air, be* . longed Srft to the river, and was derived to them from it. It is probably of Celtic origin ; for, according to the information of a gentleman Ikilled in the Iriih languagCy Ahre fignifies thin or (hallow, and is truly defcriptive of the water of Air compared with the neighbourmg water of DoAft^ now Dbon, which, flowing oiit of a large lake, is fumiflied with a more deep and copious ftream. There are two towns of the fame name ih France, Aire in Artois, and Aire in Ga£> cony, which, no doubt, have the fame etymology. The an- tient name of this pariih, as appears from fome old papers^ Was Are ; the modern name is Air or Ayr. It is iituated la the county of Air, prefbytcry of Air, and fynod of Glas- gow and Air. Its form is quadrangular. The weft fide, a« bout a mile and a half long, is bounded by the fca j the north, about 3 miles long, by the river Air ; the fouth, about the fame length, by the river Doon $ the eaftern fide is fully 4 miles long, bounded by the parities of Dalrymple and CoyU ton. For a mile and a half fomh of the town, the country u quite flat, and the foil fandy. It is nearly the fame on the
M north
r
Stati/iical Mcouni
north fide of the river, and the rife is but fmall for two i more. On the eaft the rife is gradual and beautiful for two^ miles and a half. The foil is for the moft part deep, much improved of late, azid beautified \Sff elegaAt planutions. The Ihore is flat, and, in general, fandy. There are Ibme funk rocks I but they are not dangerous.
Climate and Difeafes, — The air, upon the whole, is rather m#}ft, owmg to the clouds,* which Ticc Wafted by t6e A>od^ weft wind from the Atlantic Ocean. With a weft wind, which is often the cafe, little or no rai^ falls *upon the parifli of Air $ the clouds being broken on the higheft point of the Ifle of Arran. About the time of the Equinox^ there are frequently high winds. In fpring^ there are often iong trafb of cold winds, which blow from the north-eaft and the norA; Though the climate is falubriotis in genierar, yet perfbns of a cbnfumpfive habi^ ought to dWell at a diftance firom the pa- jIQi of Aih A fea voyage gives the 6eft chance of recovery. The common diftempets incident to childi^n proVb leis &taf here than in herghbouring towVi^. No fields ean be more commodious for talking, or the healthful e^eitriies of ridmg ahd gdlfitfg. Wife parents fend out their chifdren early to' fport upon turf ful) of diffei^nt forts of <ilover, particuFarly the yellow and the white. Once or twice within thefe 40 years, a dattgerous fore throat, atcotnpanied with' a pUfriJ fever, has been 6pidemicaf.
' Lakes and Mineral Spnngs.-^The^ ^e two fmaift lakes, one toward the fiAith-fide, named Carleny^ and the other at the eaflerh extremity, calkd Loch^Fergus^ which is mentioned irf the town's charter about 600 years ago. It appears that fome cOnfiderable edifice has ftood in its vicinity, out of the ruins of Whfch fctend houfes have been bbilt. It hai a' fmsOl ilte
of Air.^ $r
in die middlct and, probablyi was a herenry. In Ais lake «re pike aod eels, but few trouts. There is a mineral ipring vn the north fide of the river, found out near 50 years ago, and ftin ufed by a few poor people. It comes from a mixture of coal aod lrc(n» and \^ 1>een thought efficacious in feveral difordcrs^
,^.-— Qaddock and cod have been very plentiful on Air €oaft finc^ the Jxerrings left it : Mackarel has been fcarce for ibme years paft : Soals and turbot are rare. White fi(h are generally fold at* i d. per Englifh ppund^. The pi'ice of fal- mon in January, and till tjhe month of March, is between 6 A. and 3 d. per pound. Th^ are much fcarcer than formerly, owing, it is fuppofed, to the liming of land. The price is ^epc high,<oo, on account of their being carried to Kilmar- nppki Irvine, Glafgow, and chiefly Paifley. Forty years ago» herrings w^re caught in ^reat numbers, and fold from 6 d. te 3 d. per liufidred. Sail-fifh of larjge fize are fometimes taken, whence are got oib for tanners. The feafon for white fi{h is through the whole year, except about fix weelcs, from the end of March till the beginning of May, old ftile. When herrings were caught at the mouth of Air river, a lamp was ufually placed there. This lamp w^ of great ufe in prevent- ing fhip-wrecks ^ and ^he lofs of feveral lives, and loaded veU {6%^ at f he end of the year 1 789, may be imputed to the want <tfit.
Cultivation and Produff.^^erj Httlie ground in this parifh fK>w lies wafte or common. Between 80 and 90 acres, free to every burgefs, for feeding milk cows, was lately inclofed. About ao acres of common was feued from the town, little more than 30 years ago, at L. iia Sterling, with 18 s. 9d. #if fea«duty. Being brought into good tillagei and finely*-
planted.
91 Statl/lical Account
planted, it fold in 1790 for L. 1 100 Sterling. Thirty Jpaxi ago there was much heath towards the cad ; it is now green, or yielding crops. Sea-weed is thrown in plentifully by win- ter ftorms, and much ufed in manuring land. Marie, in the Jbigher grounds, is got in abundance, .and is of great advan- tage, as there is little lime but what is imported from Ireland. Oats are Town from the end of February to the end of March -, peafe and beans are (own in April ; barley in May and June* Wheat fown before winter is commonly firfl reaped, towards the end of Auguft. The parifh is fcarcely able to fupply it- felf with provifions, as appears from importations, and no great decreafe of price* Little flax is raifed, at lead for fale. A confiderable quantity of artificial graces is raifed with great fuccefs. Moft of the wood in the parifh is young, but' thriving well.
PofulaiioK, — It appears from the records of the Sailors So- ciety, that, when wine was imported at Air from France, the population was much greater than at prefen*-. When a plague broke out here, near 200 years ago, according to tradition, about 2000 died, in 1745, t(ie inhabitants were, reckoned about 2000. The return to Dr Wcbfter, in 1755, was 296J. fouls. Trade fincc that time revived, particularly tobacco which added confiderably to the population. Incloficg took place much about the fame time; and ii| the years 1747, X748, J 749» and 1 750, the herring fifliing was great : Sailors, coopers, &c. were of courfc numerous Upon the whole, the inhabitants have been increaling feniibiy, though not »• pidly, for more than 30 years paft. The number of examin- able perlbns in the parifh, reckoning from 7 years of age and upwards, is above 3400. Of thefe there are 3009 10 the town, and the remainder in the country. The number of &als may therefore be ftated at about 41Q0 fouls.
Manjr
j^ Air,
%\
Many Pf tl^e iphabitants arje befw^^n 70 and iqo jear$ of ^^e. OnjC walked to liOndon after his {oot|x yealr •, aqothqr above lop died a few mooths ago.
Ab/lrt^ of Births^ Jlfarriq^c^,and Deaths, at different periods.
|
Tears. |
Births |
Mar. |
Deaths. |
* |
||||
|
, ^fV ,'F. Tot.' Men. Worn. thil.Tot.^ |
||||||||
|
i<S64 — 5 |
146 |
128 |
274' iS9^ |
^W |
||||
|
1688— 9 ' |
ii« |
131 |
34 |
' |
||||
|
1698 — 9 |
9' |
88 |
.179 |
.41 |
• |
.. .. |
...k |
|
|
1715—16 |
82 |
97 |
»79 |
3« |
||||
|
'7.J4— 3S. |
i-q^.. |
. .90 |
190 |
.4? |
.38 |
49 |
n |
w |
|
>745— 4<i |
90 |
86 |
■*i76 |
49 |
||||
|
1756— St |
ri2 |
107 |
•219 |
54- |
«. . X |
|||
|
.1767 — 68 |
n:^ |
>33 |
255 |
.66 |
33 |
4> |
= 4f' |
m = |
|
•777—78 |
ift«. |
J 10. |
27a |
.i9: |
38 |
48 |
6.0 |
i4P |
|
i7Ua_8j |
U',7 |
!.»3 |
230 |
?9, |
.•A7 |
45 |
<?i: |
f»ii7i |
' There arc above (Joo inKabitcd hoiifcs in the parifh. The
number of heritors 'is about 60. There are 2 minifters of the'
. «. . ,. ' . . ..,,.. -r« ^
Eftabliflied Church, 2 Moravians, 1 Epifcopalian, and | Me*
»■ I ... ': '• " *. .' ' .' r '
thodift. There ^rc 2,phyfician9, 3 furgeons and apothecaries*
and about 16 writers. The feccder^ amount to about cc oc
60.
State of the Poor — ^Weekly collcftiops, and other parifh fundsi put it in the power of the fcffion to diftribute I^ 100^ per qnnun^. The town' gives L. 30, the failors L. 10, the writers L, 5, the merchants L. 3 ; and other fmall corppra- tions contribute, to thq extent of L. 14 or L.' 15; befid^s which, there is a half year's fient of L. jo. The feffion re- tains, for occafional charities among poor tradefmen, and Others^ about L. 20. If any part of this fum is faved at the'
end
94 Sfaft/Ucdl Anouni
end of the year, ^it is added to the funds of theCharity-Eoiile. This houre was built by f ubfcription in i '^56^ and is 6t to re- geive 60 perfons; but, as many penfioners prefer a fmall week- )y allowance out of the houfe^ there are feldom more tbaii 4Q in it. Alderman S^mith of .Londonderryi borp at An*,, ^ft L.'ioo9 Teveralyears ago, to purckafe land for poor houfe- Jcjcepers. This, charity ha$ ^proved very feafooable. Proypft Cochrane pf Glalgow, ix>m anjl ^oc^ifecl atAu^i left like- n^re'L. IOC) the intereft of which is appointed to be ^iveo to
i reputable burgee's widqw or Japght^ duriqg life. An in- rmary and i)ridcp^ell are^nuch wanted,
' ^rkf rf Lahur and iVwjSi/tf r-^A labourer, with a wik ijnd 5 childif n, is able to earn 7 s« per week, and fometimes ai Uule nw^ A^ sua average, he purchafes 3 {lecks of meal, afind a greater qisantftiy of potatoes, half a cart of coals, and ibap to the value of 2d. per week ; 3 ftonc of wbol, at 7 s. 6d^ ihe ftone, for clothing, and 10 lib. of lint, at lod. per lib, per mfittum. His wife's attendance on the childreii prevents ^erTrom earning much. This may Orrve as a general fpecir inen'of the w^ges and e^pences oiF a labourer's family. A ihoeaiaker, if induftrious, gets from i s. a d. to i s, 8 d. a- day; t mafon from 1 s. 3 d. to 1 s. 8 d.; a wright from 1 s. 3 d. to I s. 9 d. ; a taylor 1 s. 2 d. The price of provifions is more than doubled within thefe laft 50 years. Beef and muttoi^ is now frpm a d; to 5 d. per lib. Lamb is from i s. 3 d. to a s. 6 d, per quarter; pork 6 d. per lib. ; veal from 4 d. to 6 d. ; pigs from 2 s. 6 d. to 3 s. ; i^eefe 2 s. ; ducks from pd. to is. ; chickens 4 d. and fometimes lefi ; rabbits 9 d. ; buiter from d d. to 8 d. pef lib. ; cbeefe from ^^ d. to 6 d. ; wheat finoqi 21 s. to 25 s. per bod \ barley from ^8 s. to 20 s. ; oats froioi iSs. to 18 Sf
Church
1- .y't^'*-., ^. . -^^
tiunh and ^/^dl«— The prefent church was bdU in 1 654^ itod is kept in good repair b)r the magiArates. Tl^e old thorch, ftiled St John Baptift'si was converted, by Uliver Cromwel into an armory ; for which he ga?e ap allowance of 1000 Englifh merits to balld another. .It was in St Johii Baptift's churcli that the parliament met to con^rm Brucelf title to the throne. Records of their lederunt (hew, thai numbers of the nobility could bnly ^gn their initial^. ' The feoior mihifter's living, ihctiiding the glebe, is about L« 136 per annurH. The King is patron. The town geherdly al- lows the fehior minifter 1 2 guineas for a houfe. THe legal ftipend of his colleague would fcarcety amount to L. 75 ; buf^ from regard to him who at prelent fills the charge, the mai* giftrafes ^nd council, b^Bdes allowance fo^ a houfe, have add* £d a fum which makes his ilipeild L. iO$. The town^coum cil and (effion are patl^dds.
Mifcellatieout ObJitvatmu^^-^Thcrc are no volcanic appear- ances in this parifh, unlefs large focks, and fragments of rocks^ iftiich Htve numerous indented flones, or metals of different kinds, be confidered as fuch* Various figured ftones and pe^ trifii£tioni have been found in the parifh. There is a confi- derable quantity of moor-ftone lying on the fufface of the ground. The firee-fione lies rather deep. S6me houfes in the town let at Li 20, but a greater number between that fom and L. 10. The rent of the falmon fiaiery" in the river Doon is L. 80 } that in the river Air a little Icfs. The mar* kets here are gdod. The common fuel is coal. The price paid at the pit, per cart, is from 2 s. 3 d. to 2 s. 6 d. The one pit is half a mile diftant, and the other rather more. That at Dmogan, in the parifli of Stair, though a little dearer, it undoubtedly the beft. According to tradition, there was a battle fboghtj before the Chriftian aera, in the valley of Dal«
ryniplei
4p S Stati^icdl Aecouai
tjtnplcp in which two Slings^ Fergus and CoiliiSj [felL It h added, that Lochjergus takes its name from the ibrmefi and the rivef Kyle firom the latter. Thither Coilus, it is faid, was purfued and flain. The fmall village of Cojltonj 6 miles eaft of Air, likewife is (aid to derive its name from him* It ha^ ibeen fuppofed that Dalrjmple, Dalf-rd^mei, fignifies the val« ky 6t the daughter of kings. There is a cairn of flooes in Ihe mtdft of this valley. In June 1734, ^ b^U of fire paflfed through two oppofite windows of the heweft fteeple, broke one end of the bell bomb-joift, and then defcended to the ilrcety but did no more harm. A boy in the neighbourhood Vas killed by another ball of fire. Perhaps the only inunda- tion that deferves notice happened in 1739, attended with a ^eat ftorm. This raifed the river much, and forced Ihips of cbnilderable burden quite out of the channel.
NUM.
^ tarrtJetti ^
^A
if U A! B £ R XL PAklSH OF CARRIDEN.
Byihe Rev. Mr Gborgb Ellis*
Sitwgienf Ektent^ Sot/, isfc*,
THE parilhlof Carridcn % pronounced Carrin, is fituated in the county of Linlithgow^ or Wed Lothiaui about l8 miks 4reft from Edinburgh, on the fouth fide of the Frith rf Fonhj is in the prefbyterjr of Litilithgowi and fynod of Lorhtao and Tweeddale. It is about i mile in breadth from north to fottth, and about 1 miles in length from eaft to weft; bounded by Abercorn on the eaflr, Borrowftounnefs on tho Weft, and Linlithgow on the fouthi The foil is rather of a. light kind, and agrees better with a rainy than a dry feafon : The climate^ in general, hoWeVer, is dry and healthy, f he land is all arable, and produces grain, grafs, ind vegetables of every kind. It is let out to fmail tenants generally, moft of whom are poor, and live poorly, at 30, 40^ or 50 fliillings per acre. The greateft part of it is iocloled. Vol. L N Coal.
• The nattic U ctttainly of Celtic original. In that language, taer fignifies a poft or Aation; and, as it is fuuated at the catlern extremity of Graham's dyke, the Romans doubtlef», had a conlider4ble liation here. As to the latter part, it may be de- r.vcd cither from readan, a rccd, or rcUkCf plain, opcn;*lhc poft among the reeds, the poft in the pUin.
%
Siafl/lical Ace$Hni
Cm/.— This parifh is full of coal, for which there is greaf demand It likewlfe abounds in free-ftone. The coal s of a fine quality, and is the only fuel ufed in the pariih. It is carried to London, to the northmoft parts of Scotland, to Holland, Germany, and the Baltic. It fells at a higher price on the hilT, and to the country poople wlio Uve acart and therefore muft ufe it, than any coal in Scotland^ It lies very deep ; this may be one caufe of its high price. There are above 100 carts employed in the coal works, to drive coals te the fea and the fait pans.
Grange Colliery. Great. Chows. Culm. i^^'joo — 4,300—5,100 tons produced yearly^ 6,n7 — 2,380—600 tons of v^Kich exported. Colliers - - - - • 3J
Coal mines - - j : - . • a
Fire-cnrincs • - • • . 2
The great coa! Told, per cart, which -contains 900 weight, ' at 3 s. 6 d.
"iThc chows, or fmallcr coal, at as. 5^d. The culm, or panwood, at r s. 9 d.
I
Salt pans - - - . . .. j
Buflicls of fait made yearly • - - 16,209
There is another colliery in the parifl), which yirids noore coal and fait than that mentioned above.
Population. — ^Thi5 parifh contains, at an average, bctwcca 1400 and 1500 fouls. Perhaps tlxe eighth part of the people are feceders. Each marriage, at an^ average, produces 6 chil' drcn. Many of the inhabitants have attiiincd to 70, 80, and
rffiarriden. - 99
90 years of age. There arc 4 heritors, none of whom refidc^ hitheparifh. The alterations' here', and in the neighbotir- bood, with regard to the drefs and maimer of living of the people, arc very great.
Villages. — TTherc are 4 villages in the parlflii Grangcpans, Bridgeneft, Benhardpans, and Blackneis. Moft of the (hip- ping that is now in Borrowftounnefs formerly belonged to Gring^ns: Bot^ fince a'good pier and harbour was ereAed in Borrowftoutinefsi moft of the fhips lie there. The trade along the feuth fide of the Forth is much decayed. It is gone to Grangemouth, which is 4 miles up the Frith from Bofroi#ftclurinefs, and the entry into the great canal. At prefent Borrowftounnefs has Ihtlc trade bat what arifes from the cfoarsW* fait works.
»Ti^<r/.-=^cfvams wages ^rc very high here. A fcrvant mao» who would have been fatisfied, 46^ yeax^s ago, with L. I : 5 : o half yearly, now gets L. 3 or L. 4 half year- ly, and fometimes more. A fervaiit maid, who got 10 or 1 1 fhiUings per half year, 40 or 50 years ago, now gets 30, 4Q, and fometimes 50 (hillings in the half year. A day-la- bourer gets I 8« or 1 s. 2 d. a-day, who was formerly hired for 5 d. in winter, and 7 d. in fummer, per day. The price of provifions has riien in proportion.
SAj^m/.— The ftipend is precifely 8 chalders of viftual, or Ih 800 Scots. The glebe is 5 Scots acres, valued at 30 (hil- lings per acre. The Duke of Hamilton is patron. This living would have fupported a family 50 years ago better than L. 120 Sterling could do here now.
Eminent Men. — The only eminent perfon born in tWs pa-
ri(h
^ oo StatyUcal Acccf/tnt
tifk was Colonel James Gardner, lulled ft th<e ua/ottwat9 battle of Preftonjpans in 1 745, whofe remarkable conyerfion, vith many interefting particulars of a life and chara£lery n^ lefs eminent for natural endowments than foir th^ pra£Uce of every Chriftian virtue, are detailed in the veil known Me- xoolrs of him publiflxed by bis friend D,r Ifoddridge.
Antiquities ^—rS^^K. celebrated Roman work called ^Grf&smV Dyke^ tetnunates in this parifli^ it is fi^id, at a place called Waltown. About 50 years ago, in digging up i^ooes tp build a park dyket axes,, pots, and ieveral vafes, eyidently Roman j were found, and fent to the Advocates Library at £4inburgh| where they ftill are. In this parifli ft^nds the ancient fort^ or ^arrifoo, of Blackneis, one of the oldeft fort^ IQ S^p^laqds wd one of the four that is to be kept in repair by the irti^les of Union. It has a governor, lieutenant-governor, 2 gunners, X fergeant, 2 corporal^i an4 IX or 1 5 privates, l^i^ btt4i 14 the form of a diig*
tfUM.
PARISH OF COYttON.
Name, Siiuation, Extent ^ SpSf^ and Surfaal
THERE it a traditioo/though it is believed veiy ill ^ _ fotindedt t^at r^oyltpn derj^^ its tiaiae from % K^ng pdl^d CpUus, whq ^as killed in Mtlp.^P tbc n^igUbourhoo^^ and buried a]f| the. church of CpyUon.. Thif parifh 13 ip tbc diftrift of the CQUHty of j^iif ^railed i^*, in the prefbyteiy of Air, and fynod of GlaTgow and Air. It is 7 miles long, and^ at an average, about 2 broad. It is bounded on the (buth by ^^^W9l^f^%^ 0^ t^?; caft inf Staift on t^ porth bj Tavbo}* ton ^ §t ^y^x, ^n ^Jic vcft by Air, and on the fouth- wft ^.jpatifirjple. ,.Tbc (oiJ[ pf the grater part of the parift ii dayjy^ wbijch, Fboii propjsrijr cultivate ^, ^ ai^modantly fcr- tfe ..T^ hoi^pw p(ar. the rii[prs o|" Aif, ^ of BJylf » arc fer- tile anil djcxf I Thi; pv?<^ii «tgj:^a?l* ui %9 ow (arm* how^ c^cfffin t^ (bush if nther high ^pynd.
P^uUtkn. — Forty years ago, the farms were in general fmall and run-rig, which was neceilarily an obftacle to im- provement. The proprietors at that time occupied their own lands, and kept them in grafs, which, of courfe, diminifhed :hc i^umbcr pf inhabitants. The lands being afterwards
properly
%c% StayHcal Aeiount
properly divided, were let in larger farms, and populatlcm again increafed. The number of inhabitants, as returned to Dr Webfter, was pyi} atpreTent they atfbunt to 667, For fhefe laft eight years, the annual average of baptiims is about 15; of marriages 9 i andofburiab i^., . , ,
p0fr.^-io or 12 poor perfbns are generally fupported by the fei&on* The fonds are about L.'j;o:&er&ng'at interefty and the weekly coUeAions made at the church.
Rmt. — The valued rent of the parifh is L. 333oSc<»ts; the real rent about L. 2000 Sterling. . The number of herU tors is 9 ; 2 of whom refide in the parifh.
Church and Stipend.^^Tht churbli, which Is an old preben* dai^. was repaired about 16 years ago. The manfe was built iti i7«;o. The ftip^nd'is 5 chalders of visual, half meal half Isariey, 500 merks of money, and 160 merks fbV tommunioii elements.
Mi/ceNaneotu Olfinrntlatis^T^t z\r h li^holcToTOt. There ate three confiderable lakes» particularly one called Martor- ham, a lAile long, and in Tome parts a quarter of a mile broad. Lime, marie, and feveral ftrata of coal,' are lately 'fdurid. ' Coal is the only fud ufed In the pari A. iThere are Tcveral plantations f Both they and rhie natural w6ods are la a thriving ftate. A labourer's wages are I s. per diy. All the inhabitants of this parilh belong to the Eftabliflied Church*
^\JH-
. tf BailmtriieM^^ )^|
NUMBER Xltt.
Parish of balLantrae^
Situation, Extent, (sfc.
THE psurifh of Ballantrae is fituated in the eztremitj oi the county of Ayr, towards the fouth*, and inarches with the ihire of Wigton on the fouth and fouth-eaft. It is nearly tea miles fquare. It is bounded on the north and north*eaft by the parifh of Colmonell \ on the ibuth and fottth-eafi by the pariihes of New Luce and Inch, in the fhire of Wigton ; and by the fea on the weft and fouth>weft^ hav« mg an extent of more than ten miks of fea coaft. ' The fliore, excepting for about two miles oppofite to the^ village
• Both the parlft of Ballantrae, and tbe neighbonring pat* tHh of Colmonell, wcic originally conncaed wim the prcfbyu- ry of Ayr, and fynod of Glafgow and Ayr ; but were disjoined a little time alter the Revolution, on account of their great dif- tance from the feat of PrcAyiery, and annexed to the pre(byte* ry of Stranraer and fyaod of Galloway. The parifh takes its name from the village of fiallanirae, which is evidently of Gae- lic original, and fignifies, in that language, the town upon or^ above the fhore ; alluding to its fituation on a gentle afeent im« mediately from the fliore: And this maybe the reafon why, though only a village, it always obtains the name of the « town « of Ballantrae/^ while other villages through the country, not \tL fimilar fuuationsy are generally called CUcham.
of Ballantrae, is in generid high and rocky, having a tremeihi dous furf or fwell beating againft it, when the wind blowi from the weft and north-weft; Oppofite to this coaft the fea appears land-locked, for a moft fpacioul bay of nearly 25 or 30 leagues diameter is formed by part of the coaft of Gal- loway, the moft part of the two coanties of Down and An- trim ih Ireland, tile call lidaft t)f Afgyfefliire, Ud put of Sumbartonfhire, and by the whole ftretch of coaft along the ihire of Ayr for about 80 miles ; all this vaft extent of coaft is eaiily difcernible by the naked eye ih a clear day, together with the iflands of Sana, Annan, Lamlafh, Bute, and the two fmall iflands of Cumbray* About four or five leagues north* weft from Ballantrae ftands the Illand of Elfay : It is a moft 1[}eautiful rock of a conical figure, covered on the top with iidith and a little grafs. It is not inhabited by any human treature } but afibrds ref age to an nnmtnfe number of fci ifo'wls who breed on it, and is ftocked with rabbits and a few goats; It is the property of the Earl of CaffiUis ; and ii ^rented ^t L. 25 St'erllng a yeiir, the tenants paying their rent frOm the ft^hers of the difterent fea fowls, from the iblaii geefe that breed bii it, and the rabbit fltins. It afibl'dk a fide objedl all found that coaft, and a mark for ftiips either com* ing into, or going out of the Frith of Clyde. There is an old ruinous caftle on it, about a third part up the rock, faid by Campbell, hi his Political Survey of Britaioi to have been built by Philip IL of Spain, but on what authority is not known. There are four Ught-houfes, one at the ne# built harbour of Portpatrick, another at the town of Donag-^ hadee, a third on the Moll of Cantyre, and a fcmrth on the iiland of Cambray ; and it might be of fiiigular ufe to the towns of Air, Irvine, and 8altcoftt9> which carry on a confi- derable trade with Ireland, and the towns on the weft 6f England, if a fifth llght-houfe was creeled . on a fmall bw
iiland.
€f Ballantraei 105
yhad, talied the Lady lite, in the bay of Air. The fhore aU along that port of the coaft is flat and Tandy \ the bay is deepy and the entrance into the harbours ftrait and difficult.
Sufface^ &f7, (sTf.^^The land in this parifli riTes with a gradual flop from the fliore to the tops of the mountainst which form part of that extenCve range of hills that ftretches acrofs the fouth of Scotland, almoft from the Irifli fea to the Frith of Forth beyond Edinburgh. Near the fliore the foil in general is a light, dry, hazle mould, upon a gravel bottom* and for the moft part but thin. The furface is much diver- fified with heights and hollows, interfefled with a great num« ber of little ftreams of water defcending from the hills. AH beyond the mountains is a foft mofly ground covered with heathy and a thin long grafs called ling by the country peo- ple. Even below the mountains, heath is the prevsMling ap*' pearance, excepting where the ground has been in tillage, or immediately upon the fliore, where there Is fome very fine natural grais. The ground is in general adapted to the breeding and feedilig of black cattle and fliecp, and is uni- versally applied to that purpofe, excepting the grain which the Inhabitants taife for thtir own ufe.
Pepu/athn and condition cf tie Pecf/e» — ^Thcrc are 770 in the parifli, and of thcfe about 300 are in the village. The annual number of births is i8i The number of deaths cannot be fo well afcertained, as it is but of late years that a regiftcr of them was kept at all, and even tbat not accurate- ly, and the marriages ftill lefs. The marriages, as would be cxpcAedy from the fituation and habits of life of the peo- ple in the country, are, in general, prolific. ln(tanccs are to be met with of a woman bearing fourteen children to one hufband. The average of births to each mar- riage may be taken at fix. The inbabitaats are lodged VoL.L O in
io6 Statl/iical Atcma
ID about 190 dwelHng hoafes, which is t littk more than 4 perfons to each heufe. One hundred and thirteen of the houics are in what is called the coontry} the other 77 make the village or town of Ballantrae. The inhabitants of both town and country en^oy the comforts of fociety, in propor- lion to their circumf^ances, in a fuperior degree to others im fimilar conditions of life. Thefe fatis&fUons are owing X» various caules, all contributing their mite to render them healthy, eafy, and contentcd| and, in general, chearfiiL
Climate^ Dtfeafts^ C5V. — ^Their local fituatioa, a high, open, and dry ioil, with upwards of 10 miles of fea coaft, ezpofcd to the I'alubrious breezes of the weftern ocean^ together with thctr rural employments, renders the inhabitants uncommon- ly healthy. Epidemical diflempers, excepting the common diforders incident to chHdren, are unknown. Deaths, except from particular accidents, are confined to infancy and old age* There are a greater number to be met with In this pariflr dying above 80 years of age than in moft others. It is ro be lamented that innoculation for the fmalUpox is not more 'praftifed. There are very few families through the countrf part of the parifh, but what have a piece of ground alonf with their houfe and yard, that enables them to keep one or more cows, and two or three fheep. The young of their cows, when a year old, fells for 30 s. or 50 s* which pays tvjro- thirds of their rent. With the produce of their little piece of ground,, f urnifliing bread and potatoes, and the milk of a cow, together with their own work, they are enabled to live comfortably, to clothe and educate their children decently, and to aili(^ in fetting them out in the world. The inhabi- tants of the village, which lies clofe upon the (horc, enjoy advantages peculiar to their fituation.
Renty
rf SaltaMrat. ^cj
Xfni, Produce, {5V.-«The valued rent of the parifli is L.355I : I :6 Scots. It is believed that the real rent| in- cluding fifheries, is not much fhort of L«2coo Sterling. The rent of araUe land is from one to two guineas an acre> and of pafture, in its natural fiate, lo s. and 1 2 s. an acre. The farms are of very unequal rent and extent, being from L. 10 to L.I 15 a year. About 12,000 flieep, 3000 black cattle, a few fcores of goats, and perhaps 200 horfes, are kept io-the parifli ; and 600 or 800 acres of the ground may be employed in tillage. Almoft th« onfy crop is oats, with an acre or two of barley to a family, fome peafe, and generally as many potatoes as ferve the family twice a day for 7 or 8 months in the year. Few or no cottagers are now employed by the formers of this pariOi in agriculture, nor have been for a long while paft. A cottager's benefit, (as it is called) is commcmly from L. 10 to L. 15 a year ; the wages of a hired fervant is from L. 6 to L. 7 a year. Farmers who have graz« ing ianns, upon which they do not refide themfelves, are o« Uiged to employ cottagers to take care of the (lock upon them; and it is confidered as fo definable a iituation, that thofe farmers who have occafion for married herds to take care of their ftock, have it generally in their power to make a choice. The black cattle are of a fmali handfome kind : 'J'he cows, when fattened, weigh from 18 to 27 ftonic. The iheep, when billed off the common «pen pafture, at 2 and 3 years old, weigh from 30 to 50 lb. The chief ftaple com- modity is ndling young cattle and Aeep. The young cattle are for the moft part fold to the grazier when ht^lffums^ that is, when two years and a half old, and are changed from hand to hand till they are four or five years old, when they are fent up to St. Faith and Hampton fairs in England, and make part of what are called the fine &€oU galloways. The ikeep arc fold at two and three years old, to fupply the de-
luaods
to8 Staif/Hcai Account
mands of the mercantile and manufa£lni1ng ipPm thrpDgh lanarki Renfrcwi and Airfliijrcs.
The wool of the fbeep on thofe farms that lie between the tops of the mountains and the fea is generally Terj gocd^ and of the Ihcrt carding wool ; what is beyond them is more coarfe and ihaggy. It fells from 7 s* 6 d. to 10 s. 6f\. per flone of 17 lb. Scots weight, equal to 25! lb. £ngli(h weight \ the average price through the whole be- ing 9 s. for 252 lb. which is nearly j^^i, per lb. This ihcws the propriety of the farmers paying more attention to their wool than is generally done \ and it is believed that there are few iituations nK)re favourable to an unprovemcnt in that article than the firll mentioned clafs of farms in this parifli* Both the foil and the climate are favourable. The foil is light, dryi and kindly, affording firm footing, a dry bed| and proper nourifhmeot to the iheep; the cool re* f refiling breezes from the fea during the fummer, prevent the bad eifeAs of immoderate heat upon the new fhom w<x>l$ and the ground during the winter feaibn is very feldom en- tirely covered with fnow above two days together. If the farmers would take the trouble to introduce, from time to time, fome good wooled ranos, and gradually cut off any coarfe wooled ewes that may be in their flocks, it is poifible to improve their wool to fuch a degree, as that inflead of the very beft of it being now fold at los. 6d. it might be fold at nearly three times the price. This would nearly double the profits of their flieep on the whole, and at al- moft no trouble nor ezpcncc ; and it is perhaps the moft be- neficial of all improvements that they ever have it in their power to make upon their farms.
tf Sailanlrai^ . loj^
Rfods^-^Til of late ycaw there were few roads through the ihire of Air that ^Rrcre barely palfable. About the year 1774 an aft of Parliament wa^ obtained, commuting the ftatute la- bour for an annual payment, at the rate of 25 s. for every L. 100 Scots of valued rent. Through the interior, morQ populous, and arable parts of the country the roads werfi foon made \ and by the alEftance of government and a |oll» one good road has been made through this parifh : But it if little more than a road of communication. The parifli wants crofs roads in different direAions, in order to enable them to lead lime in carts, of whic|i there is plenty within half a mile of the extremity of the pariih : It is fold at the mode- rate price of 7I d. a boll or a Wincbefier bufhels, and 70 or 80 of the(c bolls arc found perfeAly fufficient for an acre oC this thin, light, dry foil. Some fmall experiments have beei% made in liming, which have fucceeded to the utmoft expec^ tatlon. There ai« perhaps from 10 to 12,000 acres of kndl in the parifli that could be limcdi and made fit for fock an^ fcythe ; and the ruccefsful attempts of indiyiduals, it is to bft hoped, will in time encourage the generality to follow th^ example.
Ftjberies. — A pretty confiderable river, named Ardftinchar| runs for about 25 miles through the country, and empties it« fclf into the fea at the village of Ballantrae ; but it is rapi(|. and {haUow, and can only admit of fmall boats. At the mouth of this river there is a confiderable falmon fifliery, which yields a xtni of above L. 80 a year. The falmon are thought as good as any in Scotland, and fell upon the fpot at 1 \ d. the lb. and it is but very lately they were more thai^ id. About 20 years ago there were great flaoals of excej- lent herrings that came upon the coaft at the end of harveft and be^nning of winter, (ince that time they appear only m
1 1 9 Siatiftieal Jcaunt
the fpring, about a league off; and though thejr ve then fiir from being good^ they are (old to the country people in the neighbourhood from 20 d. to 2 s. a hundred. There were Ibrmerty great quantities of haddocks and whitings at the fame feafon, but for a few years paft the prerailiog fiiherj is cod, with fome (kate and ling. The cod and ling is Ibid from 4 d. or 6 d. ; the (kate from 1 d. to i s. a piece, accor- Ang to their (ize and qualities i finaller fiflij as haddocks, &c. from 6 d. to I s. a dozen.
Prici of Provifions.^^ThoMgh the price of provifions 15 greatly increafed within thef<^ 20 years, it cannot yet be laid to be high. Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork, (of which lafl: Aere is a great deal more reared than ufcd in the paiilh) formerly fold at 2 s. or 3 s. a ftone, now fdls at 3 s. or 4 s. z fione $ hens 6 d, ; chickens 2 d. } eggs 2 d. a dozen ; ikim- flied milk cheefe 4 s. a ftone, Scots weight (24 oz. to the lb) i butter xos. 8d. ditto, of which there is not a great deal ft)ld, as the praAice of fmearing their fheep with tar and {mtter before the winter fets in tmiyerfally prevails over aS the country.
^ Church. — ^The living of Ballantrae is L. 500 Scots of mo- ney and three chalders of viAual, with a houfe and glebe worth L. 12 or L. 14 Sterling yearly. The prcfcnt incum- bent was ordained in 1 77 1, and is the third minifter from the Revolution. His two predeceflbrs each enjoyed the office about 40 years. He is married, and has a fon and a daughter. The church is at the north-weft extremity of the parifh, in the village of Ballantrae, it was built in 1604, and the manfc in 1736, and the repairs upon the manfe and offi- ces fince that time has coft the heritors little more than L. ao Sterling.
' tf Battararaei\ iif
iW.-^There Is an excellent eftaUilbment of t free fchad It Ballantrae, for educating the poor* A native of the pa^ riib| about 40 or 50 years ago, left Tu.^ooy the intereft of which fum was appointed to run on, till there was a fuffl^ dent fuoi to build a fchool-houfe, and a dwelling-houfe foF the mafter, and from henceforward to pay the fchoolmafter % and whoever fhould be appointed to the ofiSce, was to bQ bound to keep and leave the fchool and houfe in repair. Ac« cordingly a good houfe was built, and a large garden fet off« The patron of the partfh is patron of the fchool ; and by the deed he is entitled to prefent two-thirds of the fcholars, and the kirk-feflion the other third. The matter of this fchool is alfo chofen pariih fchoolmafter, the falary of which is a- bout L. 6 Sterling a year : He is alfo the feffion clerk and precentor for the time« All which offices, and the perquiw files of them, together with the value of the houfe and gar- den, makes the place worth rather moit than L« 40 Ster- ling yearly. The confequence of this is, that there is gene- rally a well qualified fchoolmafter, who is able to teach the languages, and the feveral branches of education fitting for bufincfs* From the nature of the fchool, and its fituation ia a country place, the number of the fcholars varies according to theXealbn of the year. In fummer, when many of the poor fcholars and country^ lads retire to herding and laborious vork, the number of fcholars do not exceed 25 or 30. In winter there are frequently upwards of 50 attending the fchooL
jiiiiiquifiei^'^^Tht only ruins within the parifh is the re- mains of an old church at the north-eaft extremity of the yxtiQx ; it feems to have been formerly the parifli church, and deicrted for the prefent one, as being more commodious for the inhabitants s it is called Kirkcudbright. And a large
old
rkB StMl/lkal Accmi
old caftle or dwelling adjoining to the tillage, and fituated «ipon a high rock } it is now within the miliifter't graft glebe, ilboiit a centtiry ago it belonged to the Lords of Bargesy. There are no veftiges about it lo difcover when it was buHt, or by whom inhabited. The minifter has been told, that the prefent Lord Hailes takes hotice of it in fomc of his traAs opopr antiquities.
MtfctUatiiwii Ot/ervatt&ns.'^The inhabitants labour undff difadvantages. Their fituation might be meliorated. For the common occafions of life there are weavers, tailors, (hoe* makers, ftc. There is no manu&dures in the parifli to in* creafe the capital ftock and promote circulation. Manufac- tures in carpeting, (lockings^ bonnets, and iheep (kins might probably be eftabllflied with advantage. They have plenty of peat and turf for fuel ( but coals are at the diftance of i; or 1 6 miles by land, and when brought by (ea are fubje^t to a duty of 3 s. 4d. a ton. The circutnftances of the people have been Increafing iince the year 1782. That ieafon of lirarcity, inftead of affedting them in the manner it did other parts of Scotland, rather tended to better them. There was an exceffive growth of grafs In the fummer of that year, and the crops in thu parifh and to the fouthward are in general early. That year they were reaped before the froft and the fnow fet in* The great plenty of hay made the cattle fell tO advantage, and the almoft entire lofs of the crops in the in- land counties, occaGoned the inhabitants of thefe counties to come to the fouth and weft for feed for the enfuing feafnn. This gave them an idea of a com trade, which, together with the increafing demand for live cattle iince that period, and confequent rife in their price, has made a great alteration for the better in the fartocrs circumftanccs, and given a fpirit cf
improvement
rf Ballantrae. 113
ioiprovement and demand for farms in a tenfold degree to what it ufed to be.
The fhores abound with plenty of fine broad leaved rich (ea*weed or wreck for manure \ but there is very little of it ufed for kelp on the coaft of this pariQi. The animals are thofe common to the weft of Scotland^ hares^ foxes, rab- bits, polecats, wild cats, groufe, panndges, plovers, wild ducks, and wild geefe. The migratory kind obferved are the woodcock, cuckoo, ftarling, fwallow, &c^ Among the mi- gratory animals may be mentioned the failfifli, which appears upon this coaft the firft or fecond week of June, and conti- nues for three or four weeks. They meafure from 20 to 30 feet long. The people of the village kill them with har- poons tor the oil, which is made of the liver. The liver of a good fifii will yield from 40 to 50 gallons of oil, which they fell to tanners, &c. and nie part of it themselves to burn in place of candles.
There art feveral mineral fprkigs in the parifli, which have been found beneficial in fcorbutic and other cutaneous difea- fes, and in complaints of the ftomach arifiog from acidity and want of digeftion.. .
There is no perfon in the pariih conne£led with the law, not even a conftable or flieriff's officer, nor has there been any in the memory of the oldeft inhabitant. There is no juftice of peace in the parifh, nor within many miles of it \ and the (hcriff's court is at the diftance of 36 miles. There is no furgeon or phyfician within a dozen miles, and it is doubtful whether half a dozen fuch parifhes would give bread to one.
Vol. r. P N U Rt
1 14 Statical Jccauni
NUMBER XIV.
PARISH OF TERREGLES^
By tie R0V. Mr John )B[bnm£ot.
Nsfftif Situation^ Extent ^ Soil.
TERREGLES is derived from Terra Ecclefiaey or Terre d*Eglife. It is fituated in the ftewartry of Kircud- brighty and in the prefbytery of Dumfries^ 6 miles from the fca>coft» It is about 5 miles long, and 3 broad ^ bounded by Holywood on the eaft, Troqueer on the fouth, Lochrotton on the weft, and Iron-Gray on the north. It confifts of a losvn and fandy foil. Every kind of grain ufual in Scotland is produced in perfection. Thc^ rent of land, in generali is from 12 to 25 fliillings per acre. There are not above 12 princi- pal farmers employed in huibaqdry.
Population. — ^The number of inhabitants in 1790 was 5x0. The return to Dr Webfter being 397, there is, for the nam* ber, a coailderable increafe. There are at prefent,
Under 10 years of age - - ^o
Between 10 and 20 - - ^6
Between 20 and 50 - • 1/^6
Between 50 and 70 - - 2p8
Between 70 and 100 « ^ 30
510 There
cf TerregUs. 115
There are feveral fecedersi and a few Roman Catholics* None of the inhabitants have emigratcdj nor have any been banifhed from it, in the memory of man.
Church and Stipend. — ^The church is of the Gothic fiile, and was buik above 200 years ago. The value of the ftipsndj including the glebe, is between L. 65 and L. ^oper annum, according to the rife or fall in jthe price of vi^hiaL. part of it being paid in meal and barley. The Duke of Queenfberry is patron.
Mifcillaneous Obfervations,^^ As this parifli lies near the town of Dumfries, living is very expenfive. Fuel is extreme- ly dear. Goal is brought by land 27 or 28 miles; and the price of coal tranfported by fea is as dear as what is brought by knd. Feat, too, is at a great diftance. The expences of living arc nearly double what they were formerly. The wa- ges of domeftic fervants and day^-labourers are alio confi- dcrably raifed. There is a falmon-fifhery on the fide of the river Nlth, oppofite to the foot of the pariflt, from which the minifler of Terreglcs draws tithe in money. There is an old ruin in this parifh called the College of Linciudei^
NUM-
ti6 Sfaiifiical Account
NUMBER XV.
PARISH OF EDROM.
Bj ike Rev. Mr William Rbdpatr.
Namct Situation^ Surface^ and Air,
THE anticn*' natne of this parifli was Etherhatn} derived from ktber, the original name of Whitewater, and Ham^ a village on its banks. Edrom is iituated in Berwick- fhire, prefbytcry of Chirnfide, and fynod of Merfe and TiTiot« dalt'. It is about lo Engliih miles long and 6 broadw It is bounded by the parifhes of Dunfei Langton, Polworth, Fog- go, Swmton, Whitlome, Hilton, Chirnfide, Prefton, aod Buukle. The appearance of the country is flat, except to- WiifiN the Lammermuir or Cheviot Hills. A great part of thr ioil is fertile, and produces good corn when well cultl« V.itetl ; part inooriQi and barren ; and part clay or fiiallow. For.ncrly the air was moiit, but is now confiderably dryer» on account of the inclofing and draining every part of the country. Lakes and pools of water arc drained, and corn made to grow where the water ftood. The air is falubrious. The beft proof of this is the longevity of the inhabitants. Several in the pariQi have attained to 70, 80, and 90 years of fl'Tc. The fevers, confumptions, and agues, which formerly prevailed here, were thought to have been owing to the moifturc of the country. Since it was drained and inclofed,
fevers
rf Edronu n;t
fevers and agues have ceafed very much, and inftes^d of ap* pearing every year, only come once in four or five years.
PcfulatUn. — ^Tbe population of this parifli is believed to have been much leis 50 years ago than it is at prefent. Agri- culture was not then in that flouriihing (late in which it now IS} and manufactures have only begun within thefe 15 or 20 years. From the decreet of locality for ftipcnd in the year 1733, it appears that the number of catechiiable per- fons were near 800 ; and the whole, at that time, might amount to more than 900, or near looo. About 13 years ago, they amounted to 1 200 fouls* The following tabic will give fome idea of the population of this parlih in 1790 :
Souls - - • • 1336
Males ... 613
Females - • - 723
Annual average of births •> - 40
Annual average of deaths - - 10
Annual average of marriages * • 12
Heritors - - . p
Farmers - - • - 38
Mechanics - - - 34
Inhabited houfes - - - 21 x
Peribns in a family at an average . • 6
The number of horfes in the parifh is about 280, of iheep 3000, and of black cattle 6oo.
ManufaBuus. — ^There is a paper*mill, a lint«mill, and a whccl-wright manufafture. Fifty-five pcrfons arc employed in the paper-mill, 5 in the lint-mill, and about 5 or 6 in the wheel-wright manufactory. The wages paid per day in the firft
is
1 1 8 Statijlical Account
is L. 2 : 1 5 : o* The value of the paper made yearly amoonti to L. 5000 Sterling. When the wheel manufadlure was carried on by James Small, 15 journeymen were employed. He introduced one of the beft ploughs made in Scotland/ A variety of ufeful manufa^res, efpecially linen and woollen, a cotton-miU, (locking manufaAiire, and blcachfield, might be eftabliflied. There is abundance of fine flieep for wool, and a lint-mill is an encouragement to grow flax. There is plenty of fine water and corn to fupport manufaAures. Fo|^ hundred pcribns might be employed by a linen and cotton- mill.
Wnges^ Prices^ and Poor,^K labourer's wages is 10 d. or I s. per day ; mafons and carpenters is. 6 d. ; taylors 6 d. and their meat. The ufual wages of male fervants employed in hufbandry is 50s. or L. 3 per half year, with their board; of female fervants 30 or 40 (liillings. All butcher's meat| through the greateft part of the year, is 3 J d. and 4 d. per pound i butter 8 d.; cheefe 3^d. if Scotch; Englifli is 5 d. and 6 d. ; wheat generally 30 Ih'tllings per boll ^ oats are 1 2| 14, 15, and 16 (hillings per boll, Berwickfhire meaiure; bar- ley is 16, 18, and often 20 (hillings per boll. The number of poor in this parifli receiving alms is 1 2. The annual af- fefTment laid on the heritors, tenants, and mechanics, for their maintenance, is L. 10. Several of the poor are like- wife afiifted by the weekly colledlions, kirk-feiBon fund, hearfe and mortcloth money.
Rent of Land. — ^The beft arable ground is 15 and 20 (hil- lings, and the btft pafture 25 and 30 (hillings per acre. The rent of fevcral farms is L. 300, L. 400, L. 500, and L. 600 per annum: but there are more at L. 100, L. 50, L. 30, and L. 20. The rent of the whole lands of the pari(h is about
L.6493
I
I
•f Edrom. 119
L. 6493 Sterling per annum. From a decreet of localhy ob- tained in i733> it appears that the rent amounted then on^ to L« zooo Sterling yearly. One of the heritors marled and mcloied his whole eftate, and the rent rofe from L. 500 to L. 1500 a year. Another marled the whole of hb land, inclofed it with (lone dykes, and the rent rofe fiom L. 500 to L. 1200 or L. 1300 per annum. Every eftate, within thcfe a« years, has rifen in proportion. Almoil the whole of the parifh is inclofed.
Church and Stipend. — ^The church was built in 17^2, and has been well repaired fince the prefent iiicuuibetit was fct- ded. The fpirit of makmg churches neat and decent nas fpread to the neighbouring pariihes. The ftipend, including the glebe^ is about L. 110 Sterling per annum. The crown is patron.
Mineral Springs and River Sj'^Thttt is one remarkable mi- neral fpring, called Dunje Well^ m the eftate of Niibet. It appears, that a number of gentry and nobility formerly re- forted to this water ; but it is fallen into difrepute. ihire are two rivers in the parilh, viz. Whitewater and Blackwatcr, commonly pronounced Whitadder and Blakadder. White- water rifes in the Lammermuir Hills, near the confines of Lothian, ruiis near 30 or 40 miles, and difcharges itfelf into the Tweed about 2 miles from Berwick. It abounds with fmall trout. A great number of falmon come up and fpawn in it. Blackwater rifes Ukewiie in Lammermuir, above Green- law, and after a courfe of about 16 or 18 miles, falls into the Whitewater, at a village called Allantown, in this pariflb. It is celebrated for as fine trout as any in Scotland.
Roads. — ^The roads are tolerably good. They have been
greatly
I20 Sta^/Hcal Account
greatly improved within thefe 30 years. The money nifed in the parifli for repairing them Is about L. 115 Sterling yearly, by taxing every horie at 7 s. 6 d. and every cottager at I s. 6 d. There are Few or no turnpikes, except on the poft roads. The country is divided in opinion about the ad- vantages or difadvantages of them.
Manners^ Cufloms^ ?5V.— There is a very great alteration in the manners, cuftoms, drefs, and ftile of living, of the inha- bitants of this parifli, within thefe 30 years. All x^ks have more elegant or commodious houfes, finer cothes, and better food*
NUM-
^ Imerundu
Dumber xvt
i?AltISH O-P INNERWICK.
f
Bj the Rev. Mr John Haryie.
Situdtkn^ Extent^ Sot/, and Sufface.
THIS pariih is in the county of Haddingtoni prefbTtery of Dunbar, and fynod of Lothian and Tweeddale. It extends from the fea, on the north, about 12 miles fbuth« wards. On the coaft, it is not above 2 miles broad, but gn^ dually fwells towards the iouth, and in (bme places may be 5 or 6 miles broad. It is bounded on the weft by the pariihes of Spott and Dunbar i on the fouth. by Cranfhaws ; and Longformacus ; on the eaft by Oldhamftocks ) and on the north by the fca. The face of the country Is level, and the foil rich. From the church towards the louth the pariih i^ hilly ; and the hills fartly green and partly heath. In many places on the coaft, the foil is rather light and gravelly. The ihore is rocky.
Cultivation and Pnduce.'-^Thdt part of the parifh which is between the high lands and the fca is perhaps about 2000 or 3000 acres, and is employed in raifing corn, grafs, and turnip. There is very little of It in pafturc. There are 56
Vol. L q^ plofgh*
""^« -c fed /;xt ''"^ -^ -• fc It T'^ ^ --
"'' ^«cly d,V;ded T "*"" P»«««^ Tb7 °™' '"^^t « -•'•eJ for fJe 'r'^^" ''^ ^900 »; J 7""°"' »'"c„
''^ '^<= '2th of 1?"'""^ ^°°"cr. ,; ,? ''^^ the end of
^thcr than rh* ^*-^ced jn „^ , -*-• 2 : lo - ^
'^'•"P wa, very L? ''^ '"^''« 'n a re./ . "° "^^^'S^
^•" -bout the bea'""''''^- Seed. 0^;' '° '78,, ^^
a.
can be ca/ti,
$f Innerwkk. 123
Population^ faV.— Souls - • p6o
Pamilics - . - - 208
Males ... ^^o
Females - - - 530
The annual average of births - - 21
* deaths - - 17
The annual average of births about 40 years ago 2 j
■ 100 years ago 3j
lie annnal average of males born from 1778 to 1788 1 1
■ females bom in the fame period i o
In ten years preceding/ the annual average of males 14
-' ■ ■ — : females 1 c
Seceders •■ - . . 80
Heritors, onfy 2 of them refide in the parifti - 8
Farmers redding, in the p^riOi - - 20
t^^'rights . ; ., . ■ -• 3
Weavers - - . - 10
Shoemakers -, - - i
Fiflierm^n • .. . ^. . ^ ^
Poor, above * - - - 20
Expcnce of their maintenance about L. 50 yearly.
The dccreafe'of population is owing chiefly to the mono- pollGng of farms, and the introduftion of two horfc ploughs.
Price of Labour and Provifions, -^The men's wages was 5 d. a-day about 40 years ago ; they are now from lo d. to is. The women's wages is 6 d. a-day for labouring at hay or tur- nip. But there are few day-labourers, moft of the people being employed as hynds or plowmen, lot-men, &c. ; all of whom are paid in grain. The lot- men threfli for the 25th boll, rhe plowmen receive bolls of different kinds of grain, frequently amounting in all to L. 18 or L. 20 Sterling. A * male
X 24 Stati/lica! Acamnt
male domeftic fervant receives L. 6 or upwards, and a finmle L. 3 per annum. Yortj years ago, a male fervaat received about L. 2 : 10 : o, and a female L. i : 5 : o per annum. Hccfp mutton, &c. are fold at Dunbar from 4 d. to 5 d. per lib, ; ^ couple of fowls now cofts from 2 s. to 2 s. 6 d.
Fj/fj, and Sea^Coqft, — At prefent, only two fifliing boats be« longing to the parifli are employed in catching lobfters, which is by far the moft profitable branch of fi(hing \ bi^t great ^^ riety of other fi(h is caught, fuch as cod, lingt turbojt, had- dock, &c. which are generally fent to Dunfe, Haddingtooa &c. It is probable that the current on this coaft is ftrpnger than formerly; for all the wrecks, about 15 or 16 in num- ber, fhat have happened within thefe 1 8 years^ have beeqi driven alhore nearly about the fame place. At the place where the fhips are always wrecked, there is a fn^ creek^ called Sketraw Shore, which ieems to be intended by nature for a harbour. The making a harbour here would be of great advantage to the trade from Letth to London ; and par« lijIQientary intereft could not, perhaps^ be employed better than in promoting fuch a fcheme.
Church and Siipend.^'Tht church was built in 1 7841 th^ inanfe about the year 1726, and repaired in 1788. Accord- ing to a decreet pronounced in March 1 790, the ftipend, in- cluding the glebe, will, at an average, amount to L. 140 Ster- ling ^r annum. Mr Nilbet of Dirleton is patrop*
Antiquitiis. — ^The remains of a chapel are to be feen on the coaft. There is a fniaU encampment on Blackcaftle Hill, ieemingly Danlfli. There are two very beautiful tumuli, en jthe top of which have been burial places. Near one of them ^s a bridge of one arch^ commonly called £dirkiO| laid to be
'1
9 coirqption for King Edward^ who is fuppoied to have baSt it.
MtfciUaneaus Oi/irffatiMs^^Tbc air it generally dry and healthy. There b a fj^iDg-wdl, the water of which is re- iDarlcable for its lightnefs. There are two free-ftone quar« ries. No coal is worked^ bat fmall Teams are vifible in dif- ferent places. There b lime upon the coaft in great abtui. Ilfmce^ with a (mall feam of coal below it. The rent of eottages is from 15 to 20 (hillings. CotI is iifed as fiiel on the coail^ peat and tarf on the moors. The people are, in general, snore expenfive in theur mode of living than formerly. They are very humane to thofe who have been Ihip-wrecked. Therq 9re many indofmret in the pariih; but fprae fermers thinlf; them difadvaatageous, as they occupy too much of the higk seated ccya.]and| apd harboor birds.
^^m
itS Siatyiical Account
NUMBER XVIL PARISH OF LINTON.
fjf tbi fUv. Mr FiHDXATER, Mmifier ofNiwhrnds^ firmer^ Ij of Linton,
• " NanUy Situation f and Exfinh
THE origin of the name is uncertain. The river of Ljne, which rifes at the dauldftane Slaup, (a pafs over the Fcntlands from Twecddale to Weft Lothian) r^ns ^through this parifh^ and probably Linton is fo called from being the town on the Lyne. Linton is iituated In the county of ijreecbl^Je, and prclbytery of Peebles. Its contents may be about 25 Tquare miles. It is bounded on the north by the parifhes of Mid-Calder and Kirknewton \ on the eaft by the pariih of Pennycook ; on the weft by the parifh of Dunfyre \ and the remaining part by Dolphington, Kirkcurd, and New- lands.
Soil. — ^The foil of the hills is clayey, and they arc covered with grafs, which feeds flicep for the butcher ; the fhcep, however, are fubjcft to the rot. The low ground near the North £ik is a clay foil on a lime-ftone, but the land being Jiigh, is unfavourable to cropping. The remaining part of the hill ground is all covered with heath, with a fmall mixture of grafs, and is fitter for breeding than feeding, which, in ge*
neralf
Jieral, is the ok with almoft all the paftare la^d in the pa« rUh. Except o^ the North Efk^ the cultivated lane} is either a mofly foil^ or a fandj loam upon a gravelly bottom, an4 x'emarkably adapted for the culture of turnip and potatoe* There ^e fome lochs in the lands of Sllppcrfield, belonging to Mr John Carmichael of Skirling, the largeft about a mile and an half Englilh in circumference. They have no outlet; the fprings feeming to equipoife the evapora- tion. The water is mofs water. They abound in pike and perch, but contain no eels. In a loch in Eddleftone parifli^ in the county of Tweeddale, called the Jf^ater Lochy there is an outlet with a dream which drives a mill ; at tertain fea« fons eels are caught in abundance, in creels, at the outlet. The ftreani falls into one of the £fk waters* Quere, Do eeb migrate for fpawning to running water only, or do they go to the Tea?
C/ima//.^-Though the climate is rainy, and the air moift, from the number of moflcs, yet, being well ventilated, the exhalations never ftagnate or grow putrid, fo as to produce di- fcafes. The high lands of Tweeddale and Lanarkfhire, are all fubjeft to harvcft frofts, which often damage the crop. Thcfe frofts are generally dreaded about the latter end of Augud and during the month of September. Rainy weather about this time generally terminates in this kind of froft, which, in the year 1784, deftroyed the whole barley crop in the month of Augud. The higheft land is always the laft in fuficring by this kind of froft ; the loweft is in greateft danger. In a calm evening after rain this froft is always apprehended; when it fets in, a low white thick creeping vapour is obfer- Ved to arife, after fun-fet,. from the running waters and low lying mofles, which gradually fpreads to a certain diflance, aind to a certain heighth, on tlie lands in the neighbourhood.
Thefc
Sift ttoAJHcia dttma
Thde froft mlfts are oMcrred to attraft aadi odier; aH^ wherever they reftj they deftroy vegetation wheb in a certatfli ftate, or whefe their balefbl influence is not coonteraOed by i>articular circumftances. The half of a field contiguous to the running water or mofs is often deftrbyed^ while the more iremote halfj on thfc iame level, or part equally near, bur more elevated, remains fafe. In part of a field of potatoes in the line of the attraSbon of two mifts, the fiems became black and foft like foap, while the neighbouring drill remained (reen and vigorous. Thefe froft mifts maniieft their noti« bus quality firft on the potatoe ftems, fecond crop of clo- ser, and peafe. It requires a greater degree of intenfity in the froft to hurt other crops : It ibarcely affefb turnips. The ftems of the potatoes and clover grow black and foft, and fall down \ the leaves, and the pods of the pea, are fpotted with white fpots. The potatoe b fiippofed to grow no moTCf though the roots are fafe | the peaft, in proportion to their greennefs, are foft, wrinkled, and watery, become of the co* lour of a pickled olive, and ac4uire a difagreeaUe fWeetiih tafte : When threfhed, the froft bitten are diftiiigoifhed from the found by throwing them into water } the found fink, the others (wim. A field of Oats, when froft bitten, acquires in a few days a blueifh caft ) and barley, if early firofted, as in 1784, remains ereA in the head, which acquires a redifli brown colour, or, if later, a deadifh whitCDefs. The kernels, when unhulked immediately after the froft, are wrinkled^ foft, and watery, and, after a while, grow (hrivclcd and dry. The kernel of frofted oats, even if threihed in fpring, #hen examined between the eye and the light, appears cloudy, and not of that uniforpi tranfparency which found grain pofief- fcs.
In the morning after the froft the vegetables are ftlffened ;
but
faot^jts efie£b aure not obfervable till after fun*rlfe. If wind arifes through the night to prevent the mift from fettling, or if the next day is cloudji and efpecially if it rains before fun- rife, or if the field be fo (haded by hills from the rifing fun that the crop may be gently thawed by the increafing heat of the atmofphere before the fun's rays fiiine diredtly on it, no danger is to be apprehended. In conformity to this expe- rience, a fmall field of potatoes has been known to be faved by fprinkling them 'with well water before fuurifing. But this can never be executed on a large fcale. Attempts have alio been made, though without fuccef's, to fave oats and bar- ley, by dragging fomething over them, before lun-rife, to fliake ofi^ the hoar froft, or rynu or cranreuch^ as it is called, Tvl^ich is depofited wherever the xnift fettles. This frofl af- fcAs the vegetation of corn only at a certain period of its pro- grefs. Peafe are frofted however green in the grain, and the greener the more readily \ they are not killed by it when hard ripe ; but to this ftate they fcldom arrive at Linton, l^arley and oats are not hurt by this froft when hard ripe, and fit for the hook ; and it is probable that they are not hurt by it even though they are (hot, and the ear beginning ;o fill, as long as the juices are watery, and have rot yet come to the CQnfiflepcy of thlckilh milk. It is certainly the tafc with pats. In the year 1784, the froft was on the 17th ^nd 1 8th Auguft. The uppermoll grains of the oats, which r.hvays fill fooned, had thick milk in them, and were frofted 4 or 5 grains down the head. The grains below thefc all f ipened well. The barley, which might be about equally for- ward with the top grains of the oats, was totally deftroyed, IVohably the upper grains bad flieltcrcd the under ones from J he frort, the crop being very thick and ftrong; and this ini^ht have been the reafon why the undermoft grains ripen- ed : But as a proof, above all exception, that ihefrojl does not Vol. I. R gn-atiy
f 30 Statj/lical Atcount
greatly hurt oats nvbife the juices in the ear art watery^ there were levcral contiguous fields fown with late feed oats, whofe beft ripenea grains were no further advaticed than the un« dermoft grains in the field above mentioned, and thej ail ri- pened verj welli though equally expofed to the froft.
Dr Roebuck^s experiments on oats in 1782 correfpoiKh with this obferyation ; for, even the laft parcel he cut 'vtai not ripe tvhen cut t oi courfe, it may be probably conjedured, that, m the time of the froftj none of the oats in qucftion had thick milk in the ear.
Crops cut and flacked before the froft are fafe, except pcafc, the upper furface of <«^hich will frofl till they be tho- roughly ripe. To fave them, it is ufual to turn the expofcJ fide downwards, to thaw gradually before fun-rife.
This froft affefts only low grounds, and only hardens a very thin cruft on the furface of the earth. In 1782, the froft pener rated feveral inches into the ground| fo as to de- ftroy the roots of the potatoes.
Di/l\i/fs, — A man called William Badie, or Beafie, a flioe- maker, died a few weeks ago in Linton. About 16 or 17 years fince, being aftlifted with ftomach complaints, contrac- ted by drinking cold water when overheated in harveft, he was advifcd to fwallow ftones to help digeftion, after the manner of birds with mufcular ftomachs. He was ever after alHicled with violent ftomach complaints, and frequent vo- mitings, with a long train qf nervous fymptoms. He never fufpcftcd that the ftones had lodged in his flomach, till hap- pening to be feifed with a vomiting, lying acrofs a bed, icth his head and body reclined downwards, and fupporting him-
• \ fell
of Linton^ 151
fdf wjtk his hands on the floor, feveral ftones came up. The man t^ras of decent chara£ter ; and from his own, anid his neighbqurs reports, there is no doubt of the fa£l. The largeft done was the fize of a finger end. He threw up 13, which, being the Devil's dozen, might probably be the num- ber fwallowedi Latterly^ his furgeon made him vomit in an inclined poiitioii, and he threw up fand, which probably had, fallen. from his victuals into fome fack formed in the (lo« mach by the weight of the (iones. The Hones mu(l have ' been lodged in his ftoniach lor about 16 years*
Mines, Mifieraisf Springs^ isfc. — There is white frce-ftone at Deepfyke-head and at Spittlehaugh. The former quarry fupplies ail Tweeddale. There is red free (lone in the ridge of Broomieleas^ fupplying all Tweeddale with pavement flags.
There 18 limeftoiie at Carlops, ahd Whiteiield, and Spittle- haugh, afforded in proportion to their relative (ituation to the market^ at 16 d. i s. and i.s. 1 d* per boll of fliclls, at the hill. Two bolls of fheiis is a good loading for a one' horfe cart. A boll of fliells, when flacked, yields from two to three bolls of limei
There is coal at Carlops and Cpalyburn, Totd, accord- ,.ing to (ituation, at 6 d. and 7 d« per 200 weight at I'iie pit. The feams ai*e about 4^^ feet thick, including a divilion Hone of 18 inches^
Fullers earth is found in a fmall feam below Bridgehoufe bridge over the Lyne^ on the eaft dde of the water.
MaHe is found in beds, formed feemingly by oozing fprings from limc^ftonei which cncruft or petrify mofs by depodtions
of
1^2 Statyiical Account
of licne-ftone. In thefe beds the (hells of the cotkuAdn fifotl arc obfcrved rotten and friable. A blue marki of a mixed conCllency between (lone and clay, is found in a ftratnm about two feet thick, above the lime rocks of Carlops and Spittlehaugh. No whin*Oone has been difcoveredj except detaclied ftones hi the bed of the river.
There is a fpripg lying north of Linton Village about t mile, in Mr Chatto's lahd, called Heavert'aqua JF/ffy fonr.c- what refcmbling Tunbridge.
Animals^ t^r. — Befidcs the domcfllc animals, and thofe common to the country, the earn eagle is fomctimcs, but rare- ly, icen on the heights. 1 he golden crefted wreh and the bullfinch arc but lately come. The woodpecker has very lately appeared at Newhall on the North Eft, where, pro- bably, we fliall foon have the brown fquirrel, which has'ar- rived already at Pcnnycook, from the Duke of Bucdengh'y menagerie. In winter, the huppoe^ and fome tmknovrn birds, fon.etimes vifit us. Our migrarittg Krds are the fwallows, green plover, curlew, fund lark, a fmall wader frcepienting. running water, and the red- (hank, and other two larger wa- ders frequenting lochs ; alfo the corn-craik and cuckoo ; thefe appear in fpring and leave us after midfummer. The felt- far^- and wild goofe appear in winter ; the woodcock comev • in September or Oftobcr, and foon leaves us. *
Plantations and IFoods^ iu^c. — Any large plantations of trees in the pariQi are as yet only in their infancy. The larix feems to thrive in the poorcft foils and moft expofed Gtiia- tions, 'Ihcir durability in paling pofts, even when cut young* h \^cU known. The natural wood is hazel, birch, mountaio- aDi, and v.-.r.ow?. Birch is generally found' in the moflcs^
No
Nft cok iias <Kctirred| except bft^e a 'Mr^roni ifiVmoft near the top df Mendic Hill. The fbeep preTicAT the vgroivth of oatoral Wood, ^e yOang fhoots of heath, .the jiear;afrer it is bornty* Is The gyeat'food of the fbeep. If burnt m #inieir it dies. The rime allotted hf the gacne laws for borajbg)!* fpring is 'too (liort, as heath is ofteli tod wet to bom initbbifib tnited tiihe ; 1>at fherfffs who know country aflFairs fioe tnft palBn'g farmers in moderation.' There is a roofs '])kiat witK ft white i:ottopy head growingifai moflesy which is the firft fpring food of tlse^flieep. Jt fpringa m February, if the wea^ ther is freOi. It b ^odimoaly caUird jlfi///mj. i'he £heep take what is above the ^rouadvtcnderly in their alduihs> aad without bttiog it draw op a long white Aalk. r
Gnaung-^^hcrt laaj, by a rOngh eonspotation, bt abottt 10,000 flieep grned in the^pariih, 130 horles, and 46o'CO«sw Swine are coming qnore and more into fafiiion, both among farmers and hoftfcbolders, for fimiiljr^fe. CowSriareirdol 20 to 26 ftone weight, yielding from 6 to S^cots piott tyf milk per day. They are kept moltly for fiunily 'tife, nb at* (entioft being piiid to .dairy farming. The brebd of horiesr 9 much improved of late; particularly fince the introddAion of fwo>btM*fe ploughs, which are • generally adopted. £ngltfia ploughs. With the curved moldbroad and corrcfponding foclc^ are coming into more general ufe, except for breaking up moor and bent. Small's plough is alfo coming into ufe. A few young horfes are reared from tba plough mares for fsk.« Of late, yeav olda are fokl from L. 6 to L. 10. The demand i9^ greateft for the males, which^ catieris pmrihis^ draw from 3a to 40 fhiltings more than the females. A good ftatti^o ia the neighbourhood will be bought in at L. 40 or L««50^ and peld to his mafter a profit of from L. 15 to L. ao annu* ally.
The
f34 Statyikaf Jt^cowit
The flsple taSmftl ktpt hy the farmers is the fliecp, cx^ cepting a very few fiurms where the hlUs are. green, and where hmbs are fisd for the batcher. The (heep for fale are hogsg ui. (beep of oite year old# fold off in June or Joly before they are flM)m4 They are difpoftd of tb the Highlands, or Oichil Hills in Ftfe(hire» at the liidton markets. The principal of tbde markets are two ( the one held .tnv^iriably on the thmi Wednefday of June oldftile , the other that day. week. Between twenty and thirty tboufand fheep. are generally fold at thefe markets annually, many being btought from, other parifhes. Some of the Twceddale (heep are fold at Stagfhaw, on the £ngli(h fide, and bought iii by fanners to the Yorkfliire feUs^ whence, when older, they are fold to grazing farms farther fouth. The Highlanders keep what they buy for two or tiMree years, then feU them fat to Pert h^ Giaigow, and Edin- bnrgh, about Martiilmas} a confiderable number,^ too, arc ^t.up to England. Till of. late^ the great demand to the Highfamds was for wedder hogs} iacelyi the demand wa greateft for eWe hogs for breeding. The average price for thefe year old fheep at Linton markets, of late years, has been 9 a. frhead* The fuperaoouated breeditig ewes are either fold &t at Martinmas to the butcher, at about 9 s. a head, or>eire fold with lamb, ia the month of March, to the Lothian parks at It Si
' Hie duration of a breeding ewe varies, in different farnis^ from 4 to 7 years. The farmer, when fo^earing them at Mar^^ tinmas, examines their tcah and their eyesj and firom thence judges whether he ought to keep them on his farm another ycar< tVhen a farmer quits his farm, the new incomer knows that it is highly dangefous to bring in a breeding ftock which has not been bred on the farm, and generally takes the breed* ing ftock on the farm at from 14 s. to i6s. a head. Rains
i>ein£
t^ Linionm 135
Iteing unprofitable, the leaft poffible number of tkem is kept« From 40 to 50 ewes are generally allotted to one ram through Tweeddale, according to fhe poorncfs or richnefs of the pa& ture. An old fat bleeding ewe from the hill grounds weighs from 6 to S pounds avoirdupoife per quarter^ yielding from 4 to 8 pounds of Tallow,
The Tweeddale wool Is in geperal coarfe, and fells at pro« fcnt, if the iheep are wafhed, at an average of 6$. per ftono Tron. It ufed* formerly to go all to Stirling for carpets, (bal- loons, 8cc. ; but of late it is bought much by Hawick people ; port is fent to Hawick, part to Leith,' where it is ihipped for England. Attempts have been made in Tweeddale, and in fimrlar grounds in Annandale, to improve the wool, by the introdu£lion of Bakewell rams ; but it is univerfally given up { the breed produced being, as is reported, a foft dull animal, always loitering in low grounds, unwilling to climb heights, and too fpiritlers to remove the fnow with its feet to obtain food in winter. The chief food of the iheep in winter is the grafs which in fummer they rejcA, and allow to grow to itt proper height. The common breed here is a (hort tailed com- pa{t bodied fheep» with black faces and legs. The iheep arc all fmeared at Martinmas with a mixture of tar and train oil, or Orkney butter. Butter is preferred to train oil.
A ilone and an half of butter, and 1 2 Scots pints of Norway tar, is reckoned, in general, the dofe for 80 old iheep ; i.^ flones of butter, and 12 pints of tar, is the dofe for 50 year olds, or 60 two year olds. John Murray farmer in Buccam, in the parlih of Galaihiels, fay$, that when in Elibank, in Sel- kirkibirej he was unfuccefsiul in his competition for the pre* nium granted for wool \ he next feafon imeared entirely with butter without tar, and eaiily gamed the premium. The
Highlanders
1 3$ Statfftical Account
Highlaoders aod Tork(birc people prefo h<^ m proportiD^ ta theit blaclcnefs, thinking they, are hardy bred in high or mottj Uiul. This may be a reafoD of fmeariog hogg heavily. There is no getting a very fatisfa£iory account of fmearing from the j&riners : Some fey it forms the wool into a wax* cloth, keeping the (heep warm and dry } fome fay the tar is neceflary for this purpofe j John Murray, before meationpd, apprehends the butter fufficient tor this purpofe, and that the tar is only neceiTary to kiU vermin. Some farmepa keep a few (heep perfeAIy unfmcared, for pettycoata and (lockings ^ they fay they have perhaps more wool % but they think the wool degenerates in quality and quantity the fuccfseding year \ ;^od even the firft year the experiment is not hir, as they aU ways feled for the purpo(e the (trongeft and fatteft (heep of ;he flock. They apprehend, too^ that they £iil fooner.
The greateft improvement that has been lately introduced i;i (heep farming is light (locking. The fheep are betteri and the ri(k of death is alfo by that means dimini(hed. It is not practicable by any other means than light ftocking, to in- creafe the winter food of the (heep through Twceddaie i the arable land bearing fo very incon(i4erable a proportion to the hill ground. Plantations, in different parts of the (heep £inn$, would be of great ufe for protcfting the (heep from ftorms ; but on a 1 9 years leafe, which is the ufual term, no farmer will plant. On the 57 years leafcs lately granted by the Dnke pf Qneeniberry, farmers are planting trees for this purpofe at their own expence. In (bme of the breeding farms in lin- ton, the farmer .keeps a (lock of breeding ewes ; of their lambs he keep9 a part, to replace the fuperannuated ewes and rams which he annually fells off* He feleAs the beft for that pur- pofe : He alfo keeps a portion, of the next beft lambs for fell- ing as hogs next year to the Highlands. The word pcMiion
of
^f Linton* 137
of the Iambs he fells to a fecond clafs of farmers, who annu- ally boy ia lambs^ and fell them all again next year as hogs to the Highlanders. A third clafs of farmers have a breeds ing ftock of ewes; of their lambs they keep jaft as many as are fiifficient to replace the breeding ftock ; the reft they lell to the iecond clafs of farmers. A tew farmers keep a ftock of breeding ewes ; they fell all their lambs fat to the butcher^ except what is neceflary to keep up the breeding ftock. One or two farmers who have low and improved }and keep no fheep through winter, but buy in ewes with lambs in March, fell off the fat lambs in fummer, and fatten the mothers on grafs, felling them at Martinmas, or feeding them flili farther on tnmips*
This laft mode of hrming is in its infancy at Linton. It was introduced by James M^Dougal in Linton^ a very Intel* Ugent man, who was 14 years with Mr Dawfon at Frogden^ about the time he commenced his improvements, firft as a fervant and then as an overfeer. He has been about 1 2 years m a L. 50 hrm at Linton. Mr Laurence Tweedie, lately come to the £sirm of Slipperfield near Linton, is adopting his mode of culture. He has an extenfive flicep farif^ of the firft defcription, but brings down hb fuperannuated breeding ftock to be fed off on turnips on his low lands. James M*DoQgal buys in his ewes in March with }amb ; feeds off the lambs on hill ground which has been laid down with white clover* The ewes which have ml^Ted lamb, and thofe whofe lambs were firft fold off, as they grow fat on the grafs, are fold at Martinmas ; the reft are brought down to the turnip, and fold about the middle of January. Before he pra£Ufed feeding on the turnip, he fold all off at Martinmas, and reckoned himfelf well paid if he cleared 5 s. a-head for the lambs, and loft nothing by the ewes. The turnip im-
VoL.L 3 proves
138 StatiJUcal Account
proves tbe ewes about as. 6 d. or 3 s. vhead. which is 4 profit of L. a : 10 : o» or L. 3, from the acre of turnip, an 9cre feeding a fcore, bcfidcs the advantage of the dung and paddling on a light fandy foil. The fheep are indoied u a web of net ftretched on a paling, their horns are fawn oiT, in freih weather, without injury to t^e animal ; in wet wea- ther they are allowed to go at large. They thrive hSttc when at large; but the ttirnip are (boner confumed, as they run to the frcfli ones^ and leave thofe that are half eaten. Turnip fucceeds beft at Linton when fown m the latter end ^fMay.
The principal dileafes of (heep are, ift, Iliac paffion or fick- l^efs. It attacks the fattefl, when firft let down to the ftubbles, and ground allotted for their winter proyifion ; It is cured, when taken in time, by bleeding and purging. Turnips, or clover ftubble, are faid to cure it ; probably by occafioning a loofenefs. ad, A diarrhoeai which attacks them in fpring, when the new grafs fprings quickly, after previous ftarviog in a hard winter. 3d, Palfy, called tremblings or tborter ill^ to irhich thofe fed on certain lands are peculiarly fubjeft. 4th, The rot, indifcriminately applied to confumption of lungs or liver : To this they are moil fubjeA in moift foft land. Rot- fen ewes have in fpring a goiter like the inhabitants of the Alps under the lower jaw, and are czVitApoked^ 1. e. pouched ewes. 5th, The fturdy, or water in the head : The fcull grows foft above where the water is lodged ; and they are fomctimes cured by a trepan, performed by a herd's knife. 6th, Tup lambs are apt to die of caftration, particularly if it is performed in hot clofe weather, and efpecially if it thun- ders within two or three days. The operation is delayed as Jong as can be rifked for the fummer heat, to give them a better crefl.
Whea
if Limm: 139
When the laxilbs are weaned, the ewes are milked for a longer or ihorter time^ according to the richners of the paC- turei and the milk, mlzod with the cow milk of the farm» is made into eheefe, which fells at about 6 s. per ftone Tron. Milking, however; is much difufed.
The naihes of flieep are sis JFollowi ift» Ewe, wedder, tup, lambs, until they are fmeared*. 2d, Ewe, wed(ier, tup, hogs, until they are fhorn. 3d, Gimmers, dummons, tups, until they are {hom^ 4th, Old ewes, #edders^ tups;
An intelligent herd knows all his (heep from pergonal l^ quaintance, called iead mark^ and can fwear to the identity of a (beep. as he could to that of a fellow fervant. The artificial mark made with a hot iron on the nofe, or with i knife oa the ears, he confiders as a very equivocal mark of identity^ like the cut or colour of a cot in the human fpecies.
C$m Farmhg.'^The different fpecies of bats fown at LifV^ ton are ranked as follows, according to their different degrees of carlinefs : ift, Magbiehili oats, or barley oats, introduced by Mr William Montgomeiy o( Magbiehili. 2d, Carhwaih oats from the moors of iCarnwath : They are 14 days latter than the Magbiehili. 3d, Late feed oats fi>oin Tweedfide, 10 or 14 days btter thsln the Carnwath oats, lliey will grow OQ worfe foil than the Magbiehili, but require ftrong- er Ibil than the CamWath. A prejudice lopg prevailed^ but is now jgiven up, that the Aeal of thefe was better than tJUXt of the Magbiehiil.
The Lothisin pea does not ripdn in any year at tdntdb. Ttie Peebles grey pea ripens foinetimes if fown hi March.
There
1 40 Statljlical Account
There is a Magbiehill pea» procured by the Lord Ctuef lb« ron's father. The peafe crop is always precarious at Linton.
The land under the plough in Linton parifh maj amount to 700 or 800 acresy oi which two-thirds may be outfieM *•
The outfield is teathed by folding the bhck cattle in fum- mer over night| to keep them from the corns, and by folding (he ewes when they are milked. The folds are {bmethnes limed in OAober, after the cattle are houfed : The land is then ploughed } the lime fiiUs to the bottom of the furrow, but is brought up again by ploughing deeper next leaion. Three crops of oats is reckoned naoderate cropping after a fold. On new limed folds fbme &rmers take four oat crops, then a crop of peafe, which will grow on outfield after lime, though not otherwife, then another crop of oats : The land is then kft to gather fod as nature fliall dircA. Twenty bolls of IhellSi or at moft twenty-four, is the dofe for an acre.
The croft land f is varioufly treated. The approved ro» tation introduced by James M^Dongal is a rotation of four, viz. ttunips with dung \ then barley or MagbieHill oats fown with grafles ; then a crop of hay ; then Magbiehill oats. If the turnips are eaten on the field by (heep, thb ftill farther enriches the land \ fo that, in all probability, at the next go* ing over, half the dung might be fufficlent to ralife a good turnip crop, and fet the rotation agoing, i he ipare dung might be employed in converting fome of the outfield into croft. Under this rotation of four, potatoes are raifed in fWpes through the turnip field } fe that the land is dunged and paddled by the (beep which eat the turnip.
Lint
* That is, the open or udnclofcd field* t That is iadofcd fields.
lint i» f«adom Town, and only for family t*. It'"* ^onk io or 1 1 ihillings pr ftonc when fit for the heckler. Foar ftone front the peck b reckoned a good crop. Nobody wiH riJk the foWing it extenfirely, except with the view of gam- bling for the Tmftees premium^
Pepulatkn.—'Tht popnlation of Linton, taken at a Vifita- tlonin 1777.
Inhabited houfes by feparmte families in the viHage io«
Ditto in the coontry - . - 134
Total - • • *3<^
Souls in the village • - - - 353
Ditto in the country
Total - - - -
Males
females
The fkate of their ages.
6$o
1003
490
S»3
Above 70 - - J
Between 70 and 50 - ' " «
S» and ao - - - ' ^08
. 20 and 10 - - " ^^*
202 162,
Under 10 " "
Number of marriages - - "
The whole of the feccders (all Burgers) including young children of receding parents - - 400
There U no regifter of burials or marriages. The regifter of baptifins is not very accurate : A (hilling u paid for re- giftering, and poor people have an intereft in the omiffion.
Annual
142
Statifiikal Account
Annual average of baptifcns firom 1736 till 17^99 bdth ia* clofive, - - - - - 214^
From 1759 till 1766 is very irregular. From 1766 till 17891 both indufive^ is - 76\
Population in 1791*
Inhabited houfes in the village of Linton ofBlyth
country part
Toul inhabited houfes in the parifh
Males. Inhabitants in Linton
inBlyth
— in the country
149
26
^74
Females, aoa 18 249
Total inhabitants in the pari(h Above 70 years old Between 50 and 70 Between 20 and 50 Between 10 and 20 Under 10 years old
59
12
107
178
Perfbns.
35«
523 928
29 146
349 i8tf
ai8
The depopulation feems to be owing to itieep iarmt being rented to people who live ^t a diftance ; the houfes of thcfe farms being inhabited only by the herds inftead of the far- mer's family. Another cirtumilance muft be attended to^ viz. that, in 1777, Sir William Montgomery was making large improvements on his eftate ; but at prefeht there 4re fewer labourers in the neighbourhood ; and it is bbferVaUe, that the greateft number of empty houies are near Sir Wil* Ham Montgomery's eftate. liOrd Hyndfbrd alfo carried on many improvementr, but at his death thefe improvemdfiu ceafed.
The
The people are either farmers, or mechanics and fliop- keepers ; generally onei and fometimes two furgeons ; fer^ meriy an exdfeman } lead carters and carriers ; no lawyers. Two or three looms work cotton cloth independently, op linen for the manufaAurers In Edinburgh, or even Glafgow. There are ^bout two dozen of looms in the village.
In the memory of old people, the mode of living is much altered. The great ezpence formerly was in drinking two- penny. The farmers ate no fledi but what died of itfelf ; onions was a common reli(h to their bread. Their clothei were homefpun and coarfe. More fleflx is now confomed even by cottagers, than formerly by farmers.
The fituation of every clafs of people is much improved- Even within theft few years labourers wages are confiderably raited. A good ploughman gets L. 6, and meat in the houfe | or 6} bolls of meal, and L. 1:6:0 annually, inftead of meat. }f he marries he gets a houfe, for which his wife (bears all harveft with hi§ m^fter, who drives ifi her fuel, and gives hef land for lint or potatoes. She generally gets ofiails of milk fnd whey, &c. if fhe is liked. A good fervant maid has L. 3 p<r annum.
Day laboqrefs have 8 <)• in fummer and 6 d. in winteri with viAuals ; women at out-work 3 d. but oftner 4 d. witl^ viQuals. In harveft, mep get 10 d. women 8 d. with vic- tuals. Taylors 6d. and viAuals. Mafons and joiners are pver^proportioned to other labourers, from the demand tp Edinburgh, and get i s. with vidhials. Few enlift, as they have plenty of employment at home* Some fix or eight may have emigrated to America; they write flattering accounff to t]ieir fineodi^ but compbm of their diftance from religious
or^inancey.
144. StatiJlUal Account
ordinances. Except ia cafes of occaiionai diftrefi. lroin.deactIi« fickoefty or old agej a flout bbourer or ploughman, vith an economical wife, c«i bring up a famU7 of fix children with* out aid firom the pubjic
Rent, Churchy ffc. — ^The heritors of thc'parifh, excepting trifling feuers, are x 2 in number, of whiich only one has a do* Biicilc> where he occa&>nally reifies.
The land rent may be ... L. 2359
The rent from coal and lime ^ • . 1^0
The glebe and ftipend may be worth - • 8;
The preient mioiftcr is Alexander Forrefteri a batchelor, who fucceeded in 1790, The manle was rebuilt m 1779» the church^ 1782.
The ftceders are, Burgers » . • 339
, ^ I Antiburgers * • 2
I I Rc^ef . • - 35
In all 376 There are no other religious feQaries in the pari(b.
Pa0r.— There are no poors rates in the parUh. They are fupported by collections at the church doors, by dues at pro« clamationsy and dues for mort-cloths kept by the kirk-feC- fion. In 1773* a legacy of L. too was Iclt to the poor^ be- fore that they had one of L. 25. This ftock is at intcreft at S percent. In 1783, the treafurer had above the annual in- come a balance, which was then expended, with ibme chari- table coUeAions and private donationSi amounting to near L. 30. In that year the feffion did not buy meal and retail k at an under rate, but gave their contributions in money* Tn other parifhes^ where the kirk-feffion bought and retailed
ipcal
g^ LiniQtu -> 145
ineal at sm under rate^ the retail trade was knpcked up, and tradefmen who were not on their lift had to travel to Linton for meal. The feffion never adnsitted any poor to regular penfions ; but tl^c trcafurer, who was the miniftcr, gave oc- caGonal Aipply, by the advice of difcreet people in tfie pariih.
Average of the annual eipences of fupporting the poor ia jUnton.
For 4 years previpus^ to I773f when L. 100 was left them, was - - • • L* 10 18 8
From 1773, for 8 years, annua! expcncc 1619 3
From Martinmas 1782 t\\\ Martinmas 1785,
the expence 2^ nearly the fanie each year 31 o Oy
From June 1785 till June 1790 - « 18 17 10
From the above may be deduced about L. 1:4:0, which 75 annually expended in fees to the fedjon-derk, beadle^ and prcfbytery and fynod clerksj an4 officers.
In 1782*— 39 people :ttrerc fomctimes difcovered living on pettlesi or potatoes, without meal, and were relieved ; par« ticclarty one poor houfchoider, a day labourer, who was re- ported to the rolnifter as lick and ilarving. Me was found exhauftcd with hunger; and (aid, that he felt an o^ercafllng at his hearty and his lights nvere ay ready to lofe thejliiff. Some Port wine, and a fupply of meal, put him in heart, and made him fit for work, Tlic people lived then raolUy on very wholefome white peafe^ brought from Lcith.
Parochial Suhool.^-^Thc fchoolmafter's falary is L. 10, with a houfe and garden valued at L. 2 ptr annum* The fcholar^ feldom exceed 40 iummer and winter. The prices for teach- . Vol., I. T ing
K46 StatiJIual Acewnt
ing are X f. 2 d. per quarter for Engtifli; i s. 6d. for ariOi- meticy writing, and Latin. On account of the vacation in harreft, the fchoolmafter^s year is only 3 qnarters. L. 20 per annum may be the value of his office*
Frke of PnwJions.^-^\axc\} 2 J d. per pound \ muttoa 3 d« to 3 J d. i beef 3 d* to 3}. \ pork 34 d. to 4d. 1 ducklings 7 d. or 8 d. a*piece \ chickens 3 d. a- piece ; hens for the fprt rid.; butter 9 d. i (kiauiied cow milk checfe aj d. | ewe milk cheefe 5 d. per Tron pound } fweet milk per Scots pint 2 d. 1 iktn^ med milk ^ d.
Roads. — An a£l was got for the Linton and Noblehonie roads from Edinburgh to Moffat, about I7$6. They are made, and now upheld, at 50 flulirngs per mile, which is aH the money that can be al'owed above paying the imereft of borrowed money, and witiiout any ilnkiog fund to eaLtingttifli the principal. Statute laoour is commuted, with idvanuge^ at 4 d. for a day's work of <x man.
Antiquities. — When the old church was taken down fai )78i or 17821 it appeared to have been built of the ftoncs of an older one. Carved free itones were found in the middle of the wall, reprefenting in baflb relievo a crucifix ett&^ fup^ ported by a pair of wool ilicirs lying acrols beneath, bat no inotto.
In a deep fequeftered glen in the lands of Carlop^ at the junAion of two deep glens which communicate widi the firft pne, (Vands a projcAing rock of firee-ftone, forming a natural pich, with a projeAing canopy. It is called Harbour Graig. This, it is faid, was a retreat of convcnticlers under Charles If. A ^reat number of initials are carved rvddy m the rock, and '"* dates
9f Lint0u 147
4alet cofrefpboding to the tradition. Near it is the moor caOed Harlaimuir, probably from fome ikirmifh, of wUch there is no tradition. Near Spittlehaugh is a park called Chapelhill \ there are no remains nor tradition of a building ; bat ftone coffins have been found in the park, and in feveral parts of the parifh. A Roman urn was found in a cairn at Garwaldfeoi) by the late General John Douglas.
MifcdLmwui Oi/erwithns.'^The village of Linton (eems Adapted for a woollen manufacture of coarfe goods* The Lyne would drive confiderabk weighty machinery. Lime is abundant; coat" is not dear; and every houfe in the village has a privilege of cutting peat ad libitum from the common modes, which, all expences included, may be put into the winter flack at 8 d. the fingle horfe cart.
NUM.
I4I Siaiijiical Account
NUMBER XVIIL PARISH OF NEWLANDS.
£j tie Rev. Mr Findlater.
T^fEWLANDS is fituatcd in the Ourc of Turccddalc and x\ prefbytcry of Peebles. It is bounded by the pariflics of Linton » Lyne, Kirkhurd, Stobo, Eddie Aone, and Penny- cook. The face of the parilh is diveriified with hills and val- leys. The hilU arc in general clayey, ntorc or left mixed with ftones. The arable l^nd is in general a clay loam, up- on a clofe impervious tilly bottom, b is liable to poach iof winter^ and therefore not fit for turnip iheep feeding.
There is fcarcely any heath in the parift. The paftnrcs arc all green ^ and white clover abounds where the land has bcca limed Trees thrive every where, and thorn hedges gro* very well. In high expofcd lituations, on fpouty clay foil, the oak fecms to thrive better than any other white wood ufually planted among evergreens, as on a hill top above Romanno. From the Whcam to Moothill brulge, the hnd is all euclo- fc j and well wooded. Larix and other firs of a la/gc llze arc to be fcen at Lnmancha and Wheam : At th.- l;>iter, filver fir wai iatcl/ cut wiudi afforded planks of 27 *i.Jiu5.
Springs^ Wfiei, and Minerals^ — Chalybeate fprings abound H'cry where. There is red free-ftone in Broomyieas j and from Romanno down the Lyne whin-ftone abounds. ^From Noblehoufe to Wheam the hills abound in iron*onf and iron- ilohe, oh which trials have been made, but hitherto without fuccefs. At Whedm, Lamancha, and Maghiehill, there it lime and coal. About that end of the parifh there arc alfd ochres, red and yellow, veins of man^ancfe, and Stourbridge clay. A manufj^ory for converting ochre Into paints is car^ Tied on hf the Honourable Captain Cochrane at Lamancha.
-Rirm/w^,— The whole land in tillage may be 1300 Scottf dcres, of which the outfield may probably be only one-half ot three-fifths. Ploughing is moftly performed by four horfes; in the lighter foil by two. At Scotftown, two ftout oxen are trained to plough, yoked like horfes, and feem to anfwet tery welt
There may be 230 horfes, young and old, in the parifh ; <fc)0 cows, ccAnfifting of dairy cows, and young ones coming up to replace the old ; befides about 100 more fed on fatten- ing graft, or reared on coarfe breeding ground ; and 3000 flieep. Tonng horfes are bred for fale from the plougU marcs.
Almoft the firft dairy farming in Tweeddalc was begun id Wcftcr Deanfhoufes, by Thomas Stcvcnfon, the prcient te- nant. The farm lies on the oppofite fide of the hill from Wheam, The farmer had the advantage of a ho'ife fitted up for himfelf by the Lord Chief Baron, when Sheriff of Peebles, with more convcnicncies than ufual for farm houfcs. Tempted by thcfe advantages, and the vicinity to Edinburgh^ the farmer turned his attention to cows, and found the
fchcme
150 StmyHcai dccmml
fcheme profitd>Ie» His exsunpk was foon ioUoved; and et« tept in the Iheep hrm%^ all the ftnnen pay either the wholCp or a confiderable part of their rent, bf their milk cows. The produce of a cow may be, at a medhun, L. 3 : 10 :o, or^ where very particular attention is paid, L. 4 : 10 : o. The cows are, at an average, from 26 to 30 ftoncs weight. The cows being generally hotifed, their dung is carried to crofts in the vicinity, which occafions the proportion of outfield to fcroftland to be left here than in the ikighbonriog parilh of Linton;
The iheep are all ibid ht\ lambs at flbottt 6s. appietei old breeding ewes, at Martinmas, about 1 1 s. ; the wool about I s, per ftone dearer than at Linton. Scarcely any ewe milk cheefe is made for fale in the paridi.
P^/o/Mff.— From a vifitation of the pariOi, begun t3tli July, and finiihcd 2d September, 1790, it appears that the number of inhabited houfes pofiefled by feparate fiunilics, IS - - • • • 182
The number of males are - - • 44^
— females • . i 443
^otaj ^ . • • 891
State of tkeiragci.
Under 100 and above 70 - - * . 39
tTnder 70 and above 50 • * • 103
Under 50 and above ao • • 333
Under 20 and above 10 • - ^^ 19 j
Under 16 - *. • • 220
Befides one man who fays he is 10 1 * * t
Proportion of children to a marriage - - aj^
Batchellors above 20 • • r " 70
The
Ihe aiunid Menge of births from 171:9 tUI 1749, both in- .cfoded - - - .- ' V 26y^
From 1770 till 1790, both included - - 24 <
The iohabitantt are compoled of fermersi quarriersi othev bbonrersy and a few of the moft indifpenfible mechanics* There arc 13 heritors^ of whom 5 refide.
Wapf^ and Prius rf Prmnjtons. — ^Nearly the fame as was mentioaod iathe foregoing parilh of JUnton.
.^/..^The grofi rent of the parifli is • L. 2500 From lime and coal aboat r r io«f
Chunb^ bV,-— llie valoe of tl|e glebe and ftipend t$ L. 1 15. The prefent minifter, Charles Findlatcr batcheiior, fucceedcd Dr James Mofiat in Jmie 1 790. The manfe was built 30 or 40 years ago, and the charch was then repaired. The manfe has received leveral additions and repairs within the iaft ten years.
<
/W^r^The poor are fapported from a ftock of L. 809 le« (ored on a bond of the truftees for the roads at 5 per cent^ and from voluntary contributions, and dues for proclamation and funerals, without poors rates« The annual average ex« pence of the poor, from July 1773 ^iUJu'y 1782, JL 12 2 4^ From July 17&2 till July 1790, - - 2i i ii|
The difference from year to year in the laft period is incon«- ^derabie : The L. 80 ftock haying been got within that pe^. riod, the poor were probably more liberally tr^ted. In 1782 •—3, meal was bought in by the feffion, and fold at an under rate, Some heritors maintained all the poor on their own lands. The roads in Newlands are under the fame aA as iq Untoni and ftatute labour commuted at the fame rates.
Mifcellaneous
15^ Siatlftical Accaod
Mifeellantfms O^y^rtM^xoffT/.— Drochil Caftle, 4I the eonfts* cncc of the Terth with the Lyne, was built by MortoDy itegcnt of Scotland. He was beheaded before it was finiflicd*
In fome parts of this pari(h the lands are. thirled to siiUst to the extent of the fixteenth of all the oats raifed^ boric corn, and the feed fown on the farm, only excepted. So heavy a thirlage leads the farmer (bmetifues to fow other grain, when, if it were not for the thirlage» oats wonid bo the more profitable crop.
i^UIil?
NUMBER XIX.
PARISH OE.I?,JRKMAlDEN.
Bj thi Rev. Mr Robert Callander.
mmm
Situation^ Extent ^ tsfc*
THIS parifli » in the county of Wigton, prelbytciy of Stranraer^ and fynod of Galloway. It is bounded oa the north by Stonnykirk parifh \ from which* to the louthcr* moft pointf or the Mull of Galloway, it is about lo milcf long) on the weft it is bounded by the Irt(h Sea } on the eaft by the Bay of Glcnluce \ and is about a miles broad. The general appearance of the parifh is hilly. Moft of the flat grounds produce good crops of corn.
^^9 ^^* — Mary-Port, thought to be called fo in honour of the Virgin Mary,^ is a fmall bay on the eaftern fhore, which is thought a (afe anchoring place when the wind blows- from the weft. But Drumore, where (hips of burden fre* quently put in, in bad weather, is the fafed of any in the pa^ rt(b. Befides thefe there are Curgie and Kilftay Bay. i here was once a pier at the Bay of Port NeiTock ; but it is now in ruins. Tfab would be a commodious place for ihipping, if a good harbour were built. Ships anchor with lafety when the weather is ftormy from the eaft. On this (hore, towardf the fouth, ia the warm feafon of the year^ there is a va*
Vot.L U rictf
f 54 StaiiJUcal AccmnI
riety of intrine plants growing at the foot, and oo the eliffi of the rocks« There is a fea weed, of which a confideraible qnnntity of kelp is made. Samphire grows In confidcr^fak plenty, and i% gathered for pickling. In going from Weft Tarb ;rt to the point of Mull, there riies a verj bold aad de* vaced coaft. It is about the extent of a mile, and pvojeds it* felt as the boundary between the Irilh Sea and the Baj of Luce. In a high wcftprly wiQcft ^ prodigifras fwell |ind wc^ht pf iea rolls around that point. It is awtuily grand. Here ^he Tea ha? foroied caverns, which are rendered dreadful by a retting in tide and a ftrong wefterly wind. T|ie noife is like loud clap^ of tliunder. On the extremity of the point in a fine day, there is a charming protpe£k of the north of jEngland, I&e of Man, Ireland, flic. Ships pals and repa& this point from England, Ireland^ and the weft of Scodand, There have been feveral wrecks. It feems to be a proper fituatipn for a light*houfe. There is abundance of fi(h every where on the coaft, of good quality and great variecy. The ihell*fi(h« oyfiers and lobfters, are very good of that kind.
Produei, (s^r.— This parifh abounds in com and catiie. Potatoes and other vegetables are plentiful. The fanners lay their account with paying one half of thoic rent by the fale^of cattle, and the other half by corn. Barley and oats thrive in this foil and climate, and their quantity b con* fidrrable. The farmers export annually between 2Q0 and 300 bolls, Linlithgow meafure. The boll of barley icdls this year (1790) at 13s.; oats at ids. 6d. per bolL 'ifac Wincheflcr buihel of barley will weigh, at an average, about 46 or 47 lbs. Englifh. The ^mers are induftrious, and are puking improvements, by liming, &c. The rent of any farm ^oes iiot exceed L. i^Qpet,annunu A farm of thei^eft ground
ia
^ Kirhnatdeni 15 j
n the pariih was lately let at 17 s. per icre« Th^ rental of the poriih is about L. 2600^ annum.
Ptfttlation. — Annual avei^e of births, firom 1716 to ijzdi
. - - ■ ■ • ^^""^ marriages « j
....... ...... ■ ■ deaths • 2t
f *.-. * ■ ■ birth^i from 1750 tdl
1760 - • - - . aS
J • - - i ,1 I ■ ■ ■ marriages « 4
■ I , ■ — — deaths • • ig
— ^ — — ■ — — births, from I760 till
1770 • - - - - - a4
..«-... — .— ■ » — — marriages, nearlj d
death! - 17
birthi, from 1770 till
1780 - - - - - * 2tf
-«-— marriages, nearly 6
■ ■ deaths • •14
— ^ r ■ ■ ^-'— births, frt>m 17S6 till
1790, nearly - * .. • 4^1
■ * ■ ■ marriages ^ 6
■ ■ — — — i^ deaths • * 20
In 17171 marly 37 died of the finaU-pot. tn ijiif 46 diedi moiily of fevers. In 1725, there were 43 whodiedf moftlyof the fmall-pox. In 1785, 47 died, moftlyof ait epidemical ferer. The return of the population to Dr Web« fier was 1051. In 17731 there were 212 familicsi and 900 perfons dx>ve 6 years of age. At prefect (1 7j)0) the num« ber of Inhabitants is 1380, and of families 285*
Ckarb, &W, (Tt/— The remain! df the old church Is on
the
1 5& StatlJIkdl AccoUfd
ttic ^artA ofthc'Mutl. It w^s fuppofcd to Bivfe been dcdi. catcd to the Virgin Mary. Thi j>rc(crit one Is liibM cctttrical, and was built A. D. 1633. The Earl of Stair is patron. There are ti^o other heritors ; but only one oF them refides. *nic ftipcnd has not yet been augmented, and is only 55 L ids. Without any victual. The glebe Is cohCderablylEort dF'Belng legal. At the public fchooT, Enginh, writingi aritltmefic, book-keeping, navigation, an3 aTittlc Xatin, arc HugKFTThi Talary is 1 00 merks, and L. 2 : 8 : 6 Sterling, for cdttciitiDg \1 poor Soys, out of a mortlEeSffund. EhgHIEls taagEt at is. the quarter; writing and arithmetic at is. 5d. WiUk the emolamVnU of prcccmor and rcISoncIefE, fhelncocne ym not exceed L. 17 or L. 18 Sterling. N&r the nor^iem extremity of the parifh is another fchool; the lalary about a guinea, and L. i : 12 : 0 Sterling forTca'chinJ'S'poSrBoys, out o^ the fame nioftified fund. There Ts generally a Hurd fchool, without falary, in winter, "at the fouthern extremity of the par'tfh. In both thefe Taft, education is at \%. the quarter; and the maftcrs have the "privilege *oT going about with the fcliolars, and lodging with their parents^ ^Tbc number of the fcholars at the three fchoolsi taken together^ may be alx)ut 1 20'.
Poor. — The poor belonging to this parifh are well pro* Tided. Beddcs the ordinary colle^ions, there are the follow- ing funds. Mr Andrew M<Murray merchant in Londofa left L. 100, the yearly intercft of which b to be applled'tb the benefit of the fchoolmafter, for educating ao poor boys, na- 'tives of this parifh. The late Atidrew M'Dotral, Efq; Lord Bankton, one of the Judges of the Court oYSeiSlon, left to the poor of this parifh L. 100. The yearly Intereft'is ditiiled among them. The late William Adair, Efq^ of Flizton, left to the poor L» 400, 3 pit ctnu cottfol. annuity. Thefe
three
motbi worthy ^1 f ecbrd, *
od :/..« 5. .»■- X
rircn a third within thcie few ye^KS ''^^Miik 4<^#;Mi^iffli» got 20 s, per hall year now get 30 s. or more } male iervants, who formerly got L. 2, or L. 2 : 10 : o per half year, now get L. 3 : 3 : o, or L. 3 : 10 : o j fome get L. 4. A day-la- bouf«/| wages is 6d. with, and 10 d. or I s. without visuals. The price of pouhry is pretty reafonablc j butcher meat is 2id. per lb. when plentiful ; when fcarce, it riics confiderably. There is no market nearer than Stranraer. The ale-houfes in this parifli were numerous till of late j but the new regu- lation of liccniing the houfes of pcrlbns of a fair charaAer^ it is to be hoped^ will be attended with the happieft confe* quences. There are three of thefe houfes licenfed ii^ this parifh.
Mifcellamous O^rtwfwiw.— There is plenty of whin-ftone in the parifli. Iheflate quarries are thought valuable, if properly wrought. A good deal of the flate is fent to mar« kct. There are fevcral caves, curiofities of their kind j in one of them there is a petrifying water, which drops from the roof. In another on the eaftem ihore, according to tra- dition, a hermit lived. The fuel here is peat and turf 5 and thefe at fcarce, as much of the moor ground has been con* verted into arable land. The winter is generally moderate. The air is reckoned very wholefome. More flax is raifed than formerly ; and the ground is proper for it. A lint-mill crcfted in the parifli would be a farther encouragement. The farmers bring their lime from Whitehaven or Ireland, and pay I s. 2 d. per Carlifle bufliel, which is three Wincheftcr buflicls. Th« truftecs arc making every exertion to. put the
high.
kigh4m4i Id fiod Older. The fond tfifct from cic^liiDfb- holder, except the poor* poying i s. 8 d. ^^year, and every £u*fn 15 1. for the 100 pounds Scott Talitttion. PUntariont of ireet do AOt thrive vett her^ I tiie keen air Uoviqg firoai the fto chocking iMr growth. . .
NUM.
NUMB£R X3t PARISH OF TINWALIX
3jf tbi Rto* Mr jAiiSt LlUftiB*
Kami^ Skuatmt^ Extent^ Saii, Isf^.
TINWALD, fuppofed to be derived from the Gadie, and fignifying the harbour^ or from the Saxoo, the houfe m m wod, is fituated in tbe county, fynod, and prefby- tery of Dnznfiries. TrailSat, probably too of Gaelic extrac- tion, and figntfying ^Jloping vfitjde^ was joined to Tinwald b 1650. The form of thefe united pari(hes is nearly an ob» long of about 6 miles by 4. The parifli of Kirkmahoe is the boundary on the north and north- weft ; Dumfries and For« thcrwald on the fouth and fouth-weft} Kirkmichael and I^ochmaben on the eaft and fouth eaft. The water of Ae feparates the pari(h firom-Kirkmichael. It is a pleafant ftream^ abounding in trout, and fea-fi(h in their fcafbn. It falls iot9 Annan a little above Lochm^ben. The parifh is feparatcd from Eirkmihoe and Dumfries on tbe weft and fouth- weft by a fmall ftrcam called Lochar, whicht about a quarter of a fntle bdow this, enters into an eztenTive mofs, called Lochar Mois, 1 1 or 1 2 miles in length, and in fome places 3 ia |>readth. It fupplies tbe inhabitants of Dumfries, and the furrounding neighbourhood, with fuel. T)iere was a Icherae^ about JO years ago, to cut a canal from Solway Frith to
I Lochir-
Lochar-brldge at the head of this mofs. There is only a fall of 14 feet from it to the fca« The eftimate of the expence IS faid to have been L. I0|000. Befides the benefit arifing from a commtinicaJloii wkh fheTeti the greateft part of this extenfive nv>rais woald have been rendered arable, or fine meadow ^upd. in 19 pre^^t i^^ f i¥t^> ^thcre are confiderable traAs of excellent meadow along the banks of rivulets which run into it from the high grounds on all fides. There are llkewife ftveral good farms in different places on the higher parts of the mofs, on both fides of Lochar, which divides it nearly into * two equal parts. ~ There is a tradition, univerfally credited, that the tide flowed up this whole tra£t above the higt^eft bridge in the nerghbaqrhoQ4« In the bot- tom of the mofs fea-mud is foqnd $ and the banks arc cvi- dcntly compofed of fea-fand. A few years ago, a cano« of confiderable fize, and in perfeA prefervatton, was found by a former, when digging peats, 4 or $ feet below the furface, about 4 miles above the prcPent flood^marki but it was de- ftroyed before any Antiquarians had heard of it. Near the fame part of the mofs, and about the lame depth, a gentle* man found a vefiel of mixed metal, containing about an Eng- )i(h quart, fuppofed by fome to be a Roman modius^ and by others to be of much greater antiquity, as the Phoenicians, according to tradition, traded with the natives for tin, feveral hundred years before the Romans had difcovered the ifland. The vefTel is ftill prefcrv^d. Antiquities of various kinds are found in every part of this mofs where peats are dug, even near its head, fuch as anchors, oars, &c. } fo that there is no doubt of its having been navigable near a mile above the higheft bridge, and fully 1 2 miles above the prefent flood mark. Near the nian(e there is a narrow gut, betwceh two fandy hillocks^ called CoUyveat, fuppofed to be a corruption ^f ColUn^s boatj where it is thought tticre was a ferry, which
indeed
tfTtnwald. i5i
indeed wdfoid be Very necefiaiy, on the fuppofition of the tide flowing there. Lochar, after a courre of 1 1 or 12 miles below thi$, falls into the Solway Frith. It abounds with pike. The moft of this parifh is arable. The fouthern part is much more fertile than that which lies towards the north and eaft ; and the harveft, in general^ is three or four weeks earlier. The fouthern part is of a deep dry loamy foil, and produces wheat, barley, and oats« of the bcft quality. The north-eaft part produces all thefe, though of an inferior qua-^ lity, the foil being moftly wet, and lying on a bed of till. A gentle rifing ridge, running from north to iouth» divides the united parilh.
jfit and Difiimpfrs.^^The air, in generaU is dry, and rec* koned healthy. There have been no prevalent diftcmpers during thefe laft 30 years. The meafles are fometimes £ital, efpeclally to ad^s \ but they feldom appear above onee in 10 or 12 years. The fmaiUpox was juftly dreaded about fiO years ago; but, as innoculation is now generally adopted^ that difeale is become le(s fatal.
^griculiurtf Sbeep^ £jV.— Agriculture was in a very imper« {e£t ftate previous to 1762. Potatoes of a proper kind, and the plaDtiog of them with the plough in drill rows, Was in- troduced after this period, as well as the cultivation of clover and rye^grafs. Lime and manure were unknown, except on a few acres of what Is called cnft^land^ which was nsver out erf* crop. Every farm, except grafs ones, of between L 30 and L. 40 of yearly rent, may be ftated as railing 2 acres of wheat, 4 of barley, about 14 or 15 of oats, and 2 of potatoes. Rje is not much cultivated here, as it is thought to be a robbing crop. The raidng of turnip is found to be beneficial^ and has increafed greatly within theie two years. The far*
Vol. J. X mcrs
l62 Stdil/iical Acc$unt
sners aie alfo begmning to raife cabbage. Thqr gefieiPaDy lay out their wheat and barley fields with dover and rye- grafs, which produce excellent crops. They in general be- gin to fow oats about the loth of Ma^h, barley iiir the end of April or beginning of May, and wheat In the mtath of OAober. They reap their wheat and barley abont the nud- die of Auguft; the oat crop immediately focceeds; and in good years the harvefl! is concluded in the fouthern paH of the pariih before the end of September. The avenge rosl of the beft arable land, except three £irraS| h fron> 15 s. to L. 1:3:0 per acre } meadow i h is.; paiturage, not in tillage, though arable, 3 s. and 4 s. ; inferior arable finom 5 s* to IDS. The average fize of farms, excluding the three large ones already mentioned^ is about 100 acres. There are few indofures in the parifli, but the peopk are very much con- vinced of their utility* Since the commencedienl of the new ]eafi;9, land, formerly uncultivated^ has becl^ greatly impro* ved. The parifh not only fupplies it(elf with provifions^ but annually exports coDfiderable quantities of wheat, barley, oats, oatmeal, and potatoes, of the bcil kind. The farmiecs, in general, have a very fine breed of cattle, rather above the middle fize. Tinwald parks and ihaws, confiding of about 1500 acres, are remarkable for producing the beft fat cattle and Iheep in this part of the country. Ihere are about 6a or 70 fcopc of (heep in the pariih. Of late, an attempt has been made to improve the breed, for the lake of the wool, part of which is now fold at 14 or 1$ ihilliogs per ftooe, though, formerly, 7 or 8 Ihillings was the common price. A few of the Spanifh fhecp have been procured, jUad fomc of the bhctland kind are wanted. The excellent pafture here has hitherto been found to improve greatly every kind that has been put upon It. Should the fpirit of improving the wool become general, it would be a fource of immcnfe wealth
to
tDtheViDgdoin, and prevent our .being ibb^e^d to the ca- price of a foreign power for this important article. The reo* tal of the, parifh is about L. 2559.
£optdatiff0.*T'The inhabitants were more numerous many years ago^ by fome hundreds, xhan at prefent ; ten or more tenants fometimes being turned out with their cottagers to aake way for one. In fome inftances, only the herdfmam is retained in the farm. By the ftate of the population given to Dr Webfier, the nucpber was 79P The inhabitants at preient amount to ^50. The papulation is increafed about 70 fince 1 785.
Males * . • • « 419
Females • • - « , - 431
Married • • . • . 152
Average of chHdren firom a marriage between - 5 or 6 Children under 8 years of age - - 133
Heritors - - . - - - 3
Farmers ■-•.*. 55
Cart and |dough wxights • • .- 3
XVheelwrights ...... I
MaTont . ..... 2
Blackfrniths . . ... 4
Weavers ... .- ..9
Siioemakers ..... 4
Taylors - - • - - - 4
.Secedcrs - • « • --ai
Komao CathoKc families - - . . x
Inhabited boufes * - - - l8»
The proportion of the annual births and deaths, is i x or IX to 7*
%64 StatytUa! Jee^wa
Paor.'^Tbe miinbcr of the poor in this parifli varies ftoa ^4 to 20. They are tnaintaincd bf the weekly contribotiooi which is about L. 15 ^^ annum, and firooi a fiind of L. 14O1 mortified by (everal individaals for that purpo(e« There is too inftance of any of them going out of the pari(h i and thej are feldom troublefome to the inhabitants.
Price cf Labour and Prm^tns.^^Tht ordinary wages for la- bourers in hufbandry is 1 s. without, or 8 d« with viduals* A married man prefers the (hilling. Their families are ge- nerally iupponed dececently. None of them are known to be in want, or even to receive charity. Carpenters, brick- layers, and mafons, have from is. 6 d. to is. lo d. without ^idtuals; taylors 8d. with viAuals ; male fervants from L. (5 : is to L. 10 and u)ore per annum,- maid fervants from L. 2 : 10 to L. 4* ''he pref'ent price of beef is from 3 s, 6 d. to 5 s. 6d« per itone^ veal is between 3d. and 4d. per lb. $ mutton from 3 d. to 5 d. ; lamb about 3d; pork 3 d. and 4 d« The price of a dnck is from 8 d. to i s. ; of a gooie i s* 10 d.} chic kcD& arc '. d. and 8 d. per pair } butter from 7 d. to 1 1 d. per lb \ common cheefe from 3 d, to a d. The Carlifle bufticl. or 3 Winchcftcr bufhcis of wheat, fells from 16 s. to L. 1:1:0; barley from 2 s. to 3 s. per Winchefter bafhcl, ^nd fomerimes mores oats from 2 s. to 2 s. 6d. and often more 5 o^t meal from i s. to 2 s. 4 d. per ftonc. The price of labour and provifions is nearly doubled within the<e hft 30 years.
Church and Stipend. — ^l^he church of Tinwald was rebuilt in 1763. The manfe was built in 1720, but has been feveral times repaired. New offices with flate roofs were built about 12 years ago \ and the whole repaired in 1790. The ftipend is L. 77 ; 4 ;o« Ih^ glebe coolifis of 15 acreS| and, taken
along
tfTirwald. ; 164
{ibng-with th« manie and ofBces, may be rated at- between, I^ 15 and L. 20. The King is. patron of the old pariflx of Trailflatj and the Dokc of Quecnlbcrry of Tinwald,
Antiquities. — A branch of the Roman road from Brunfi wark runs through the pviflics of Dryfdale and Lochmabenji enters the old pai iih of Trailflar, and paifes by Atnisficld houfe, where there are very diftindl traces of an ancient caf" Ullum This road terminates in the parifh of Kirkmahoe, at the ftnall village of Dunfcorc, There are alfo very diftinft traces of a Briufh fort on the top of Barfell Hill| about a mile from the church. .
Emifunt Men ^Thc famous Paterfon, who, it is faid, plan- ned the Darien fchcme, the Bank of England, &c. was bora ^t Skipmyte^ a farm in the old pari(h df Trailflat, about the year 1660. He does not feem to have .been an obfcure Scotch- maiit as a certain writer ftiles him } he more than once re« prefentfd Dumfries, &c, in the Scotch parliament. The ftme houfe.gave birth to his grandpcphew, Dr James Moun« fey, firft phyfician for many years to the Emprefs of Ruflia. The widow, who now enjoys the farm, is fifter to Dr John Rodgerfon^ who fuccccded Dr Mounfcy as firft phyfician to the Emprefs*
Miscellaneous OhfemMtiom — With regard to the advantages •f this parifh, it may be obferved, that a fpring of fine water may be found in almoft every field. It is interfefted in va- rious places by fine rivulets. It is near the market town of Dumfries. The turnpike road to Edinburgh paflcs through it, on which a mail coach runs once a day, and a diligence often three times a week. Other roads in the parifh arc f cry bad : There is, however, fufficlency of money for re-
pairs*
i66 StaiifRcal Aceinna
pairs. The ftatute labour is commuted. The general opi* nion is much in favour of turnpikes. One oC the moft ez« tenfive bleachfislds in Scotland is carried on at Trailfiat« There are onl^ 3 fmall villages. There is one lake of aboat 5 or 6 acres in extent. It is faid that a fct of farm bodes once ftood on the fpot which this lake now occupies, and that they were funk by an earthquake. Almoft every farmer has two carts. Two horfes will draw, in light finglc carts, \6 creels of coal from Sanquhar with greater eafe than 10 creels in a heavy double cart' In 1782, the parifh not only fup- plied itfetf, but exported grain in confiderable quantities. Property in land has been frequently changing \ but foxne farms have been rented by the fame family for the fpace of 300 years. About nine years ago the parifh abounded whh wood \ but only a few trees now remain. The woods oa one cftate fold for L. 6000 1 he people, with a few excep* tions, are induftrious and fober. They enjoy many of the comforts of focicty : Fhcir houfcs, however, arc in geneiai mifcraWe hovels. Till within thcfc two or three years, up- wards of 500 bufliels of malt were made in the parifh by different tenants for their own ufe, and to fupply labourep set a reafonable rate, the?excife of which, though moderate, amounted to a confiderable fum \ but they are now almoft totally deprived of this comfort, owing chiefly to the feverity of the excife laws, and are in danger of being driven to the dram-Jbopt which is at once pernicious to their health and de- Aru£Uve of their morals.
NUM.
rf€rofsmkha€k mif^
NUMBER XXI. i^AlilSH OF CROSSMICHAEL;
By the Rev. Mr John Johnstonb.
Origin of the Name.
IN old writings, the name of this parifh is Corfemkhacl i but of late the orthography in the title has been moire in life. The etymology is obf ioufly Saint Michael's Crofs,
Situatum^ Extent^ and Surface.— This parifh lies near the center of the ftewartry of Kirkcudbright, in the prcfbytery of Kirkcudbright, and fynod of Galloway. It is nearly of a rcAangular form. Its length, from north to fouth, is about 5 Englifh miles ; and its breadth, from eaft to weft, from 3 to 4, It is bounded on the north by Parton ; on the eaft by the river or water of Urr, which leparates it from Kirkpatrick- Durham and Utr ; on the fouth by Buittle and Keltoi^ ; and on the weft by the Dee, which fcparates it from Balma* ghie. About a fixth part of this parilh, contiguous to its northern borderj is raoftly covered with heath and coarfc grafs, and contains a few hills of moderate elevation, which in general are rocky. A great part of the farms in tliis neigh- bourhood is capable of improvement, and is daily receiving It : The reft of the parifli prefehts a furfac^ very beautifully diver Gfied. The land rifes in the form* of a ridge from the twd rWers, and is, at regular diftanccs* interfpcrfed with gcn«.
tie
t68 Statijiieal JcciOM
tie fwellS) or, as they are called, knows, all of wKich are arabl#j and, when properly drefled, have a fine effe£t. Along the Dee is an extenlive and fertile valley.
Sw/, Climate^ feV. — ^Thc foil if extremely various 5 fuch as loam, meadow, holm, till, gravelli(h or Tandy. The whole is remarkable for producing exuberant crops of grain, and a Ijpecies of natural grafs, which, though not tall, is excellent pafturage* A good deal of rain falls in moft parts of the weft of Scotland. There is, however, rather lefs here than in the adjacent pariOies, becaufe the high hills which collect the vapours, and break the clouds, are at a confiderable diftance. The air is by no means moift : Snow frldom lies long ; and^ on the whole, this place is as healthy as any in Britain. Since the mofles have been drained, the ague, which was the only prevalent diftemper, has quite difappcared. The two rivers which bound its eaftern and weftern extremities^ promote a conftant circulation of air, and prevent noxious vapours from collefting. The people live not in towns or villages, and moft of them are employed in agriculture, which it favou* rable at once to health, longevity, and morals. Within thcfe 20 years, at lead 1 2 perfons have died in the lower parts of Gal- loway, from too to 115 years old. William Marfhal, a tinker in this place, is now 118. He might pafs for a man of 6o« His facuhies are unimpaired, and he walks through the coun- try with eafe. One thing muft here be ftated as highly per- nicious. The advanced duties on malt have almoft entlrely^ aboliflied the praftice of brewing. Ale-houfcs no longer ex- HI; but dram-houfcs have been fubftituted in their place, which the chcapncfs of whiflcy, and the contraband trade in foreign fpirits carried on in this country, tempt the people to frequent too much.
Lately
gf Crq/ipiubaeL i6g
LdiJ$ RiverSy ani Canals. — ^Thcrc arc two I Ae$ or lochs to be taken notice of. Erogrogo Loch is remarkable for two fmalliflands on it, .which are breeding places for Tea- gulls, that repair thither in great quantities at the proper feafon. Loch Rohn, or Roan, fomewhat larger than the tormer, is a very great natural curiofity. Its fuperficial contents are from 36 to 49 acres, and its depth is from 10 to 22 fathoms. It is fituatcd in the higheft part cf the adjacent country. No rivulets or ftrcams run into it, nor has it any vifible fupply except the clouds. Its waters are exceedingly clear, and, ualcis .the froft be very intenfe, it feldotn freezes. At the mouth of the Urr thearc is a fmall harbour^ at which Englilh lime and «oals are inxported* and grain and meal exported. The Dee is formed by the junftion of the Dee and the Ken, two miles mnl a half above the head of this parxfli, whence they proceed in their courfe mftder the name of the Dee, till they hll into the ica below Kirkcudbright. The breadth of the Dec, oppofitc to this parifli, is from 700 to 2220 feet. There arc feveral fords when tlie water is low ; but all of them ar£ dangerous, and hf ve been fatal to feveral perfons, as the pools are not feen on account of the blacknefs of the water. There are two ferries here : One is called the Boat of Balmaghiej and about a mile above is the Boat of Living- fton. The water here is 45 feet deep; and this is the place at which the canal^ to be afterwards mentioned, would join the Dec. The meadows along the Dec, which are very ex- tcnfive, never fail to be laid uader water after a heavy fall of rain. During the winter, the floods are fo frequent, and leave fuch quantities of fand, that the meadows are rendered unfit for pafturage. In fome places, earthen banks or mounds have been created, are creeling, or may be ereftcd with ad- vantage ; but by far the greater part of the nieadows cannot poflihly be faved from the inundations. Some years ago, Mr
Vol. I. Y Gordon
1 70 StattJlUat Account
Gordon oF Culvennan, at his own expence, cot a canal to conncA the Dee with Carlinwark Loch. Thusi boats carry* ing firom lo to 24 cart load of marie each, pafled up to New Galiowayi (ituated 15, miles from the loch. Marie fold at the loch at I s. per cart load ^ or 21 cubical feet was fitrid at Mew Galloway at is. 9 d. ; and proportionally lower at other places by the way. The canal is only on a fmall fcale, and at prefent out of repair. The rocks at Tongland bridge, and its ihailownefs between them and this place, prevent the Dee from being navigable for 8 or 10 miles. It mightj however, be connected with the fea at two places by a canal, by which veflels might carry up the means of Improvement to a coon* try that wants them, and return with fuel to one in which the want of this neceflary article prevents the iBtrodii£tion of manufactures. An aftual furvey has lately been made; and, from the eftimates of ikillful engineers, it appears that the wiihed for communication might be opened for L, 9000. A curious fa£t has been afcertained by Mr Copland^ via. that the rivers in this neighbourhood have confiderably decreafed of late, and that the Urr did not difcharge into the fea a third part of the water it did 40 years ago. Mr Copland thus accounts for this ftriking phenomenon. Land ancakivated, and covered with heath, Is almoft impenetrable by water ; and, of courfe, the rain that falls muft run off its fur&ce into the channels of the rivers. This was the ftate of the land here till it began to be improved by marie and lime. The application of thefe manures pulverifes the ground, and prepares it for abforbiog the rain. Befides, as it is well knowa that water is a material part of the food of plants, *lels of it will be left to flow into a river, when at leaft ^ four blades of << grais, and four ears of com, have been made to grow oa « its banks, where there vas only one before.**
.^ Crofsmkbaeh 17 1
i<^.«-*The Unr abounds with trouts, and a great many £diDon come tQ fpawn in it ; but few are taken or fold here* There is ajgreat falmop filhcry on the Oee at Kirkcudbright^ and another at Tonglandi about ttvo miles above It. The fal- mon of the Dec are of a darker colour, and much fatter, than thofe of moft other rivers in the fouth of Scotland. Few of them get over the ileep rocks at Tongland except when the water is fwelled, and thofe that do are obliged to make the bed of their way poft the loch of Ken, as its inhabitants are not re- markable for hofpitality: Thcfe are, the pike or gcd, the perch, and the eel. The pike are found here in great perfeftion, and of an uncommon fize : They are always in feafon when the wea- ther permits them to be caught. They are caught with the fly, or with lines baited with bum trouts or frogs. ' 1 he perch were firft introduced into this river and loch in the year 1750, by the late Alexander Copland, Efq^ of Colliefton. Since that time they have multiplied remarkably, and are now taken in great quantities, efix;cially about midfummcr, by thofe who fiih with worm baits iov amuiement. The eels are never interrupted in their poiTeflion of the waters, as the country people have an infuperable prejudice againft feeding On an animal which fo itrongly refembles the ferpcnt. The tale, however, was different in former times. In the dark ages, when the art of cookery was but Iktle underitood, tiiere wasy \n this parifli, a fiOiery of eek, which were exported to Italy. This is mentioned by HeAor Boethius, and after him by Buchanan*
Pppu/ation.'^As records hzve not been regularly kept, the anttent ftate of population here cannot be precifely afcertain- ed. The knowledge of fome fadls hath however been pre- fcrvcd. From the year 1751 to ^^6i the baptifms were 128, being, on an average, about 13 yearly. For the 16 following
yeart
172 Siaii/lkal jfccomt
years about 17 ye^lj, a^ the whole amountecl to 27^. Ac- cording to the return made to Dr Webfter about 40 years ago, this pari A contained 613 fbufi* On an aAual enumera- tion, it was found, on the tft January 1791, to contain 772. The inhabitants have therefore increaled 159 fince that time. At prefcnt, there are perfons
Under 10 years of age - - - ' aoo
Between 10 and 20 - - - 125
ao 50 - - - - - 33^
50 70 - - - . 82
-o 90
Total 772 Of thefe 380 are males, ami 392 are females. They occupy 163 houfcs, 14 of which have only one inhabitant each. In one village there are 70, and In another 36 fouls. All the reft live in the country*
Abftra£l, for the laft f^ven years, of
Baptifms.^ Marriages. Deaths.
|
1784 |
30 |
- |
3 |
- |
}6 |
|
|
178J |
23 |
m |
I |
m |
li |
|
|
1786 |
»9 |
- |
4 |
- . |
■7 |
|
|
1787 |
24 |
- |
6 |
- |
8 |
|
|
1788 |
at |
- |
S |
9 |
||
|
1789 |
24 |
- |
a |
-* |
3 |
|
|
1790 |
«7 |
- |
10 |
• |
6 |
Total 148 31 60
Average nearly 21 4 8
Of
^ CrofsmkhieL tj^
Of thofc i?ho have died in the -eonrfc of thcfc (even ytar»j 12 were under 4 years of age \ 9 front 60 to 70; f6 froni 70 to 85 ; and 23 of various ages. The annnal births YaA6 been to the whole population as t to 36 ; the marriage i^ I to 192 ; the deaths as i to 98. This laft circumfta^oe afl fords a ftriking proof of the uncommon hcalthinefe of ''flK i>lacc; - . ' ■''''
Caufts "wblch have affeEled the State tf Pofmlati<m.'^Vormcrlf there were a conliJerable number of loicrofis^ that is, fd^all pieces of land kcpl always in crop, and let along with'cotta-i gcs, and 'the privilege of grafs for one or two c6ws. TPlifc abolition of thcfe about 20 or 30 ^cars ago, and the praSidfe of throwing ftvcral fanns into one, "occupied chiefly Tor lEc purpofe of grazing, gave a temporary "check to population; A very largp traft of the fineft land in this parifh wasjbr a ;)umber of years in the puolTeflion of one man, who neither refided upon, nor, ploughed it. Of late, marlc and lime have contributed greatly to. the improvement of the country; and, as agriculture requires more h'ands than pafturage, po- pulation has be^n increafing with rapidity. The farms have been reduced to a fmaller fize ; and only three are occupied by tenanu who do not refide upon tliem. In a few jcars a conGdcrablc number will probably be added to the pebt^e,^ by thcexecutjon of a plan adopted, on part of their eftatcs,' by three gentlemen, to whom a large portion of the panA belongs. The plan is this : As foon as a leafc expii'cs (and feveral hundred acres now arc, or have lately been in the na- tural poffeffion of the proprietors) the 'farm is parcelled out into fmall lots, from 4 to 15 acres each of arable ground. Thefc, properly fenced, are let to thofe who offer the high- ea rent. The tenants fue houfe-fteads and gardens, for which they pay a duty, at the rate of L. a or L, 4 P« ^^^^ annually,
and
>y4
Stai/Kcal Aamif
and on which they build at their own ezpeuce what hode^ thef need* Of the adjoining park they get a 19 years leaie, at about doubk the rent which was paid by farmers, propcriy lb called. Several of thefe lots are taken, to be eDtered on |iow^ or at W^itfunday next. The tenaoU are either traded men or laboorers, who propofe to confume in their £unilies the produce of the land, and to pay the rent out of the money they receive for workbg for others.
Divjfion if the Iniaiitantf^^AccOTding to.
|
ift, Place of Birth. |
3d, Occupations, |
|
|
Natives of England 4 |
The ftewart depute |
I |
|
Thcminifter |
t |
|
|
The fchoolmafter • |
1 |
|
|
Highlpids - X |
Farmers renting L. 15^ |
|
|
Edinburgh - 3" |
^ .. L. 170 ' - |
4« |
|
Farmers under L. 15 |
»? |
|
|
Weavers i^ |
i |
|
|
Shoemakers |
4 |
|
|
Total 77a |
Taylors and 3 apprentices f |
|
|
filackfmiths and i do. |
3 |
|
|
» |
Mafons and 5 do. |
to |
|
Joiners and i do. |
6 |
|
|
ad. Religious Perfuafionso |
Dyer and i do. |
i |
|
. |
Shopkeepers |
3 |
|
Cameronians - 14 |
Small innkeepets * |
2 |
|
Their children * 12 |
Male (ervants |
s* |
|
Antiburghers • 15 |
Female fervants «* |
54 |
|
Their children • 9 |
MiUar |
I |
|
Epifcopalians * 2 |
Labouring cottagers |
ss |
|
Roman Catholic • i |
Paupers - * |
7 |
|
ri\..blilliLJ church 719 |
Familiesof the above,&c. |
49« |
|
Total .771 |
Total |
-p |
|
1 |
Cl)ara3(r |
' gf CrofmUbatL 175
tharaOer rf the People. — ^In their reli^oos rcotimentii the inhaUttfitt cl* Galloway are apparently more united than thofe of moft other partt of Scotland. Within the boondf of the extcniive prcfliytery of Kirkcudbright^ there is not a diflcitting mceting-hodle of any defcription. The morals of the people in this country have, from three caules, fuftained material injury. Its vicinity to Ireland has rendered it the receptacle of fome of the leaft refpeAable of the inhabitants of that kingdom. The cattle trade it lefs favourable tlum agriculture to fobriety and honefty : But, above aU, fmug- glingy for which our local fituatlon is but too favourable, tends to relax every moral obligation. But, while thefe general re- marks are made, it is by no means admitted that the conduft of the inhabitants of this pariih fiirnifhes any extraordinary evidence of their truth. None have occaiion to beg without the bounds of the paiilh. Vagrants never repeat without cffc£t a real or a fi Aitious tale of woe \ and when extraordi- nary coUeAions lire made for any charitable purpofe, thb pa* ri(h yields not to any of its neighbours in point of liberality. The ftile of manners are fuch as may be expected to charac- terife a people in a ftate between rudenefs and refinement^ pofiefled of a competent portion of the comforts of life^ with- out having obtained the means of luxury.
Chunk. (5*^.— The manfe was built in 17449 and the church in 1751* Both have been repaired and enlarged fince the ordination of the prefent incumbent. Ten acres have been added to 5 1, of which the glebe formerly confifted. By decreet 1 784, the ftipendsare,42boUs viAual, and L. 762:16:10 8cou money. The value of the whole living, on an average^ may be L. 1 12 Sterling. Alexander Gordon of Culvennaui Efq; is patron. Mr John Johnflonei a batchellori b the pre» ient incumbent.
17^ St^i/Kcal Auofmt
*5fikioifr»— -lathe year ^735^ William Gordon, £% merchant in Briftoly bulk afchool and ichoolmafter's houfc;, and endowed it m$h a falar^ of L. iQptr annum^.j^u condition that all tkt chiUren of the pariih (liould be taught gr/itis. A» the eK* peiice of living aivanccdi the fchool.i. utter found this provi« fion too fmall for his /dpport. In the yvjir 1 775, he prefcxAi^ cd a petition to the comiailiioners of luppU^ a: I obtained a legal falary of 200 mcrks Scots. His Uving, rliercforc, in* cinding gratuities at Candlemas, may amount to L. 23 on an average, ihe houles formerly built huving become ruinous, •new^ones were trcf£led in the yrar 1787, in a more centrical fituatton^ and the expeuce of them was defrayed out of the Taeant ftipends, which fell due during the dependence of a law-^fuit, ftixMt the right of patronage, preyious to the fettie- mqit of the prelent mioiOer. At this (chool about 60 chil- dren arc inftruQed in Latin, Knglifli, writing, arithmetic, 5cc. There are feveral private teachers, whom a few neighhouring femilics employ and pay.
Poor. — On an average, fevcn .or eight perfons arc main- tained by alms. At prclbnt, two are fupported out of the paroclual funds. Five, v!io can earn part of their fubfitlence, receive a fmall qur^rterly contribution ; and three others are occafionally relieved as their nccefSties require. The funds arifc entifcly from the voluntary offerings of the people. The colleftions in the church are about L. if) per annum. The principal heritor m^'.ces up the lofs, which the poor would pthcrwife fudain from bis non-reddence, by ordering a con* fiderablc quantity of mesd to be diflribnted among them an- lioally, according to the dire Aion of the (efllon, and by fur« ^ifliing eon^ant employment in his gardens and policy to fe- yeral old and bl'-nd men, at the rate of 6 d. per day, which prevents them from becoming public burdens.
The
^pf Crofimkhad. 177
Whe Prices of Provificns and Lahur^ and the Sapenca tf a hAourit^s Pamilyy — Oifier to little here ^m thofe in the pa* pttx of Holywood, that the reader may be fafdy referred to Che account given in pages 26, 27, an4 289 of this volume. It inuft^ however, be obferved, that tljie price of fome articleis^ though nominally the fame in both places, is really lower here j for the Kirkcudbright pound of cheefe, butter, &c« coafiftmg of 28 ouncesj is 4 ounces heavier than that of Duow fries. Mea) is for the moft part i d« per ftone cheaper here than it is there. A great part of the haryeft worlc is per* formed by perfons from tl^e moors, who hire for the whole harveft, which includes reaping, putting in the crop, and thatching the ftacks. Their wages are from L, i : t : o to L. 1 : 6 : o. They Qeep'and are maintained in the farmers houfcs, whether the weather ^mits them to work or not.
Divifiant Rent^ and Price ef Land.— In fhe year 1771, a very accurate map of this parlfli \i;ras drawn by Mr William McCart- ney land furveyor ;' but, as this map was never engraven, on- ly two copies are extant. The number, fizc, and rents of the eftates are as under :
|
fftates. |
Acres: |
Valuation, |
Real Rent. |
|
2840 |
L, 1286 0 0 |
L. 1200 |
|
|
923 . |
5^2 3 4 |
450 |
|
|
850 |
as« »3 4 |
17Q |
|
|
244 |
96 0 0 |
100 |
|
|
198 |
J3J 0 0 |
^38 |
|
|
6. |
306 |
92 0 0 |
io; |
|
7- |
301 |
/ 95 0 0 |
100 |
Carried over 5662 L. 2522 16 8 L. 2262
Thefc fcven belong to non-reCdent heritors. Vol. I. Z I
|
t78 |
1 |
^taSi/lkal Accdunt |
|
|
Eftatcs. |
Acres. |
Valuation. |
Real Rint. |
|
Scots. |
Sterling* |
||
|
Brought over |
5662 |
L. 2522 16 8 |
L. 2263 |
|
8. |
107* |
470 10 0 |
63^ |
|
9- * |
240 |
150 0 0 |
iS« |
|
10. |
208 |
138 0 0 |
100 |
|
I If |
350 |
82 13 4 |
U |
|
12. |
46 |
27 10 0 |
66 |
|
13- |
66 |
27 10 0 |
66 |
|
14. |
18 |
12 0 0 |
18 |
|
15- |
8 |
10 0 0 |
8 |
|
16. |
2 |
20 0 0 |
3 |
Total 7696
L. 3461 o 9
The proprietors of thefe nine reiide upon theou
L.34iD
The moor grounds are let, an an average, at as. or 2s. 6d. per 9cre \ arable apd pafture, of inferior quality, from 6 s. to I2>.» the beft arable, pafture, and meadow, from L. i to L. 1:10:0. The importance of inclofures is acknowledged, ;ind the number of them is daily increaQng. A gr^at many farms have been fold, iince the laft peace, at the rate of £rom 93 tQ 28 years purchase.
ImplcmenU and Operations of HuJbandry.-^^Thtre arc Z% ploughs, 1 20 carts, and 218 horfes, all of which, except a few young horfes, are employed in the improvement and cultiva* tion of land. This is a country in a middle ftate between pafturage and agriculture. Of late years, calcareous manures, both foreigi^ and indigenous, have been much ufed, and leafes liavc been granted on terms calculated to encourage the pur- chafe and application of them. The tenants have h in their power to plough annually a fourth, and fome a third part of their afab^c ground, provided they can carry on their ploush- '* ing
Ing in a r^gdar courfe, always opening the oldeft groand firfti and taking only three, or, if one of them be green* four fucceilive crops from the fame field, and allowing it afterwards to reft at leaft fix years. Except potatoes, few green crops are raiied here, chiefly owing to the want of pro* per fences for preferving turnips or cabbages from the cat« tle during winter; and alfo beeaufe the practice of hou« fing cattle has not yet become general, and, of courfc* fuch quantities of dung as thefe crops would require are not coUeSedk Not above lo or la acres of wheat are fown an- nually ; thofe fown with barley may exceed loo. About a third part of the lands, as it goes out, is fown down with rye grafs and clover feeds ; add, if it has not been previoufly im« poveriihed by over-cropping, the hay produced, both in point of quantity and quality, is highly valuable. The ftaple grain is oats. The fmall or grey oats have almoft entirely given place to the white oats, thoigh they are ftill lefs pure, and of ao inferior quality to thofe raifed in countries where improve? ments have been longer introduced. Of late, fome farmery have cultivated a fpecies of black oats, which are fooner ripe, and yield more meal, than any hitherto tried. In ge* neral, oats raifed from ground improved with marie yield le($ meal than thofe from ground improved with lime, beeaufe the (hell or hull of the former oats is thicker. The marie, however, is found to be the beft manure for grafs, and to be peculiarly adapted to the foil of Galloway. The farmers lay their account with paying one term's rent out of the profits of tbeir crop, and the other out of thofe of their cattle. Moft* of the marie difcovered in this parifh has been exhauftcd. 'the principal rcfource now is the loch of Carlinwark, in the parifii of Kelton, which abundantly fupplies the demands of the country. Thb loch wai fold three years ago for L. 2000.
PrMbiSms.'^Ahaiat So acres are pkated with tftei, att of firhich are is a thrmng eondhton. Grafi b raUed fer the '!2i8 horfefl mentioned aborei and for 4 afles, 25 goats, 600 fheepi and 1840 black cattle. The breeding fyftem b in ge- neral purfiied. The higheft recommendaition of a toir is, that (he brings op a good beaft, and not, as dfeirhere, that fhe gives much milk ; and it has even become a proverb, that «* a good farmer would rather kill his old fon than kill a <« calf.** The Gallowaf cattle have one clnraAeriftic w^ch naturalifts may think incredible ; thtf are almoft all vrhhoot horns I Dr Samnel Johnfoh^ in his journey to the Weftern Iflands, (London edition^ 1775, pag. 186), has the fellomig notable paflage : «* Of their Mack cattle, fome are wkhoot ^< horns, called bj the Scots humble co^s, as we call a bee a «. «< humble bee that wants a fting. Whether this diffcimacc «^ be fpecific or accidental, though we inquired wti great £- «< ligenciy we could not be informed. tVe are not very fure << that the bull is ever without horns, though we Have been ^' told that fuch bulls there are. What is produced hj put- '* ting a homed and an unhorned male and female together, <* no man has ever tried, who thought the refult worthy of •« obfervation.** Though it may favour of arrogance, the high authot'ity quoted muft foe flatly contradifled. There is not within the boonds of this parifli a finglc bull, nor a male of any other fpdcies, except a few goats and rams, whh horns. The experiment the philofepber wiihcd for, has been tried a thoufand times, and the refult has been obferved to be a calfi fometimes with, and fbmetimes without horns, but ne- ver, as the Doflor moft probably expelled, an unicorn. A few cattle are fatted here for home confnmption, and for the Dumfries market ; but the far greater part of thofe reared arc difpofcd of, at 3 and 4 years of age, to the drovers, who carry them up to London^ but chiefly to Norfolk and Sufibik.
boaie
9f CrtifsnuchiuL i8i
Some diiorert torn from L. 30,000 to 1. 3;iOOo fer amwn. With rcrpefk to other provjfions, this partih does more thail fupply Itfclf. At Dumfries there b a ready market for fat fwine, which are bodght up and cured for the nie of the En^Ufli. Some barley, and a very great quantity of oats and oat*meal, ire annually fent by land carriage to New Gallbwajr and Damelliogtont to fupply the moor country; and ftill greater quantities are ibipped at the foot of the Urr and the Dee* for Liverpool, Whitha^en, and the manu&^hmng towni in Lanark arid Renfrcwflurc. Hares and partridges abound here, and they are even increafing, although none of our he- ritors are fb attached to the game laws as to ihake an annual publication, in the newfpapcrs, of their determined purpofc to become the tfttrigers of Mood on the iniquitotis generation of poachers* ^
j200^..«About a rniie of the great military road (made by government) from the Engliih border to Portpatrick, pafTes throiigh the footh end of this pariOi. Some years algo, the ftatute labour was converted by aA of parliament. The in- habitants of this diftrift pay at prcfcnt the mammum^ which is 15 s. Sterlirig for each L. 100 Scots valuation. Several good lines of road have been fited on, and (ome of them arc about half made. There is ftili milch room for improve- mcnt. There are no turnpikes in this, or in the neighbour^ ing county of Wigton. Turnpike h)ads would be very ac. ceptable, if the cctcmony of coUefting moincy at the toU-bari, could be difpenfed with. It is doubted how far they would be expedient on any other terms. If they Ihall take phce, manures ought to be exempted, and a very moderate tax flioold be laid on cattle, where the trade in them is carried on to io great an extents
fSa Statytica! AccoiM
Jniiquiiief.'^Th'ext are in this parifh ten irregular hfeaps of fcofe ftones> which antiquaries called Piffj/b €airns. Three df thefe have been opened bj perfons ftili alive ; and in each of them fome human bones have been found, in coffios confiderably above the ordinary iize. There are ieveral moats, as in other parts of Scotland \ remains of antient and later fortifications. The foundations of a very large convent was lately difcovered, about which record and tradition are filent. Farmers in ploughing, and labourers in digging, have frequently found Roman urns^ fwosds, and other imple- ments.
Language i and Etymology of Names of Places. — ^The language %K>ken here is neither EngUfh nor Scottifli, but a mixture of both. With the exception of a few provincial words and phrafes, the inhabitants if>eak with more propriety than thofe of the fame ftation in moft parts of Scotland. The names of places are derived from the Engliih, the Gaelic, and from combinations of both. Many of them are defcriptive of the iituations of placc$j or of their dependence on the church, &c.
Advantages and Difadvantages. — ^The advantages of this place, as muft appear from what hath been faid, are very con- iiderable. The chief difadvantages which it labours under, are the icarcity and dearnefs of fuel, and the length and bad- neis of the roads over which it muft be brought. The plough has almoft totally removed the whins, and other bruQi-wood^ which formerly were of material fervice to the poor. As there are few mofles in the parifh, moft of the peats muft be brought from the diftance of 4 or 5 miles ^ and even there the proprie- tors will fcarcely difpofe of them at any price. Some people bring coals, by land carriage, 40 miles from Damellington in ▲irihire. This country might be furnifhed with Englifh coals,
were
ff Croftmicbaeh }9s
were it not for the duty prepofteroully impofed on thofe that are water-borne, and exafled by the revenue officers with great rigour. Sparc^Iy any grievance calls more loudly for redrefs. If a duty muft be had from coals, it would certainly be more coniiftent with the wifdom of parliament to lay it on at the pit, than to coUeA it folely from thofe whofe local fituation fubje£ls them to the additional ezpcnces of freight aqd infurance.
NUM^
(
/
1 81^ Siatifiieal Accomi
NUMBER XXn* FARISn OF PARTON.
B} ihf Rev. Mr W1LL14M DoNALDSOir«
Nami^ Situation f Exfeni^ S|«/» i^ 8utfaet.
TH E name of this parifli, for mow than 300 foirs paft, has been fpelt Parton ; and Parton^ thopgh prob6ibl| altered) both in orthography and pronunciation, from the fSaelic, whence \t is d^ived, is faid to fignify in tliat language the hill icfi^ which is perfefUy defc^iptive of the fituation. Moft of the names of places here are derived from the Gaelic, and, under all the difguifes of writing and pronunciation, are ftill underftood and interpreted b^ thofe who are ikilled in that language. This pari(h lies in the ftewartry and prefbj- tery of Kirkcudl^right, and fynod of Galloway. It approach- es to a fquare form, 5 mfles on each fide. It is bounded on the north by Balmaclellan ; on the eaft by Kirkpatrick-Dur« ham, from which it is ieparated by t)ie fmall river Urr ; 01^ the ibuth-eaft by Crofsmichael } on the Ibuth by Balmaghie, from which it is feparated by the Dee ; on the weft and fouth- wcft by Kells, from which it is feparated by the ^en, a river that is in fome places near a mile broad. The pari(h b from 1 • to 15 miles from the neareft fea-port s and no roads arc open- ed up to its interior parts. The arable ground is of a light or fandy quality. The ground is very unequaL There are
no
« rf Partm. 185"
iA.oodfidcra)4e moontalnsi but many little hills. The flats and enaSpencies are generallj^ covered with heath, except in tbe foQ^ei^n border, where furze and broom uied to pcevail before the improved mode of cultivation.
jfgriaifiun,, a^cl-^Thc number of farms is between 40 and j-o. £^ hath a: plough. The old Scottiih plough is uied in breaking up the ground, when 3, and often 4, horfes a|% nfed ^htea&n In the fubfequent ploughings, a lighter plough^ with 2 horfes and i man, is ufed. It is fuppofed that 400 a^res may be annually employed in raifing oats, 6 or 8 in barley, and ^o in potatoes. Potatoes make a princi- pal article of food of the lower clafles of the people ^ and, * with a fmail degree of attention, the old crop continues good till fucceeded by the new. On the fale and exportation of flieep, wool, black cattle and oats, the farmers depend for the paying of their rents. Oats are fown from the middle to the end of March, and reaped from the end of Augull to the end of September. Potatoes are planted in the beginning of April, and are ready at Lammas. Moft part of the farms arc inclo- fed with ftone dykes. The advantages of fuch mdoiures are well known. The land rent of the pariih is near L, 2060. Land fells from 27 to 32 years purchafc. The nature of the ground in different farms is very different. One, confiding of 45 acres, lately let at L. 48 //r annum ; another, of more than 400 acres, let for L. 40. The rent of farms is from L. 10 to L. \20 per annum. Akhough the rents of ibme hrms have been even doubled trithin thefe laft 30 years, yet the condition of the people is much improved.
Air and JDj^/mr/^r/.— The air is falubrious, and there are 00 epidemic diftempers, if we except rheumatic complaints, which, for thefe laft 40 years, have prevailed among all ranks.
Vol. L a a Alinerai
1 86 * Staft/Hcal Accvuta
Mineral Sprwgs^ Lakety afiJ J^Vitrf.^Thttt b t fprlng, which is iUppoled to poflefs. In fomt degrct^ tlit qua* lities of the old well at Mo&t. It Was fermerly mueti fre- quented by the common people, bat is noi^ quite negleQed. Ho cures have been properly authenticated. Perhaps die water was u^ed in an injudicious manner. Tbktt are fmn fmail lakes plentifully ftored with trout. The rivar De« join^ the Ken about half a mile above* the kirfc^ from whcnec k has the name Dee till it enttrs the SclMray Frith at Kirkcwt- bright. In a flood, the Dec fomethne^ rifes 8 feet perpen* diciilarly, by which large tra^s of meadow ground are over- flowed. This, in fummer, is very hurtful to tbe hay; but. In winter and Tpring; con&lerably improves the crop. Op» pofite to Parton, the river is from loo yards to half a mile broad, and from to t& jq feet deep. It abounds in pike and perch. The former are caught from 3 to 40 lb: ; the latter from 1 to 4 or 5. Formerly the moors afforded great plen- ty of bhck and red game \ harts afid partridges are lltU in abundance ; woodcocks appear in the end of Oftober.
^tarrhs, — A flate quarry, not a mile from tte rivef, wa? formerly wrought, but by unfkillful management has' goo& into difrepute. In the opinion of judges, it might ftill be rendered valuable, confiderttig th^ fpirit of improvement > efpccially of building, which feems to prevail much in this part of the country.
Populathn — I'hc return of the population to Dr Webfter
was .---.. y^^
Inhabitants in the year 1 790 - - . ^09
The annual average of marriages from 1744 to 1782 4
*■ ' births - - - 11
' ■■ deaths - - . 8
In
I0 f^iSf y-dv: Qunber of fouls alH>ve fix years of f)ge, ex«. . duGw; ^ficccders and P2|pifts - • , 400
(The-diauoutioa fiace th^ period is owing to great farms) . jlol^hiud houfes - - * - ico
laaulict ^4 of them Catholics and 4 Seceders) « 80
f erfbns ^ a family, s^ an avera^e^ . • j^
Proprietors of land (the patron and tl^ee others refide in
the pari/h) • - - - 12
JMecbaoks -pf aU defarjpjtiojDs • -10
Jlorfcs • - - - • - - 110
Cattle . .-.-•- . 1000
hhecp - ^ - - • 3000
Coats, pot above - • - • , - ^>^
A £ev 7e:trs a^o, a ipan died ;^ve 90, whoj about 8 months before his deathj ^ot a complete fet of new teeth, vbichbe^empbyed till near hisjaft breath to excellent purpofe. He ^^as foor times married, had children by all his wives, and at the baptifm of his laA child, which happen^ not a year before his death, with an air of complacency ex preiTcd his thax^^&ilnefs to his ^l^tr for haying *< at laft fent him « the clidfiwe^ h e. 21.
'Chyrcb and Stipcrti.^^Thc church, Situated t^lthin aoo vards of the river^ is remarkable for little elfe than its <larkiitl^ »nd diiproporito*oti» being 6; feet long, and 14^ broad. Ih^ palpit is of fblid oak^ curionily carved, and bearing date 1598* The nunfe, rebuilt. in 177.79 had addi. %905 ai|d'4pepairs in 1789, and is now large apd commodious. The fttpepd is L. 83 :6: 8;. the manic and £}cbe L. id. \7illiain Olcndonwync of ClcmdoawynC| ^fqi is thf pa- .iron.
i88 Stallftieal Aecom^
Pma— 'At an average for 20 years paft, tlie mnnUr o( poor who have received ftated or occaiional fnppiiei are & The annual colle£tionsg and tlie intereft of lent mooej, amount to L. iq per annum. In 1 782 — 3^ though the mtA got up to half-a-crown the ftone, yet the poor were compe- tently fuppliedj and the other inhabitants lived much in their ufual ftile.
Price ofLotour and Provtfiom^ — ^In 1 761, the yearly wago cf a man fervant were L. 2 : iO| of a maid fervant L« i : io» In 1 79O1 the former have advanced to L; 8, or L. 8 ; i^, and the latter from L. 3 to L. 4 per annum, A labourer's wages are 8 d. and his viduals ; a mafon's or carpenter's 1 s. ; a tayknr^ 8 dk There is no ftated market here for provifions. In 17611 a fat flieep, weighing from 40 to 50 lbs. fold for 7s. or 7s. 6d. ; a dozen of eggs for i d. ; a hen for 4 d. ; a pound of batter for 6 d. ; .a ftone of cheefe for 3 s. ; and a ftone of oat meal for 1 s. Now^ all thefe articles^ except the laft^ are near^ doubled, * •
Fiiely ^^.~Peat is the general fuel. It is icarce in the fouthern parts } and the poorer fort of people ufe broom and furze. It is plentiful in the middle and eaftem parts^ and of the beft quality. The mofles are of difficult acceis, as no pro- per roads are opened. The inhabitants are obliged to carrj home ^heir peat on horfe-back incomfacks, as carts can- not U uied. Thefe zrt no turnpike roads in this part of Galloway. The principal road here, which goes alotig the river, will be made good by a commutation of the fbtnte la^ bourj at the rate of 15 s. the L, 100 valued rent^ widch an- nually produces L.' ax Sterlmg,
jlntiquities. — ^Near the church there is an artificial mount,
4^9 7v4s ctrqimGnrence at the bafe, which Is circuhr. It is faxTounded with a ditch from 6 to 9 feet deep, whence the earth which compofes the mount appears to have been taken. About half a mife north there is another tnount, nearly double the dimenfions of the former, inclofed with two ditches. On a gentl^^min^n(9,:«t;2x^.jai^^s d^ftance,' b fee^a theremains of a fmall Druidical circle. About 3 miles north from the church there is a remarkable heag of ftones, from which the fem where it Itei fccms to ibave been named /ir Caf>«. The circular bafe b 120 yards in circumference. A iimilar cairn, but on a fmaller icale, dbm^i n^^^l&iiUUnce, was opened s» jean ago, and in, or toward the centre, was found a kind of ^one coflin, f09taiiuDg.j(bjmething like frago^nts of humaa
• ... I • . • • • r •
• • : b : 'l . . . . • . NUM.
'i »■ . .1. ..; ..^im •
.•-■•■.'• ■ • ■ , 1-. ■•.:'.■. .
' . . . ■. ■ ; .• ... ■. . ..^ .•:••
PARISH OP GO^V^WOTON.
' • ' • Name, Hiuatkn^ Baaft^^Soil, bfd. '" -
THIS parifli derives its name from Convent Toum*. it is in the county of Lanark, prefbytery of Biggar, and fynod of Lothian and Tweeddale. Its length from fouth to MBth is 3 milef> and its breadth 2. It is bounded on ths eaft by Libberton ; on the weft by parmichael ; on the foatli by Symington and Wifton ; and on the north by Pittenain. There is fome barren heath; but the foil is in general fertile. The haughs of Clyde are moftly 6f a good quality, but they are fubjefk to inundation \ which, though pernicious at certain feafons, at others enriches the ground, and fupplies the place of manure. Part of the country is mountainpus. Tinto is 1 ^^9 feet above the level of the Clyde.
Agriculture^ IsFc. — ^Every f^^mer keeps two ploughs at lead; one of them is the old Scottifh, and the other Small's. There are about 630 acres in tillage yearly : About 90 in i>arley, 6« an peafe, 70 in potatoes and turnip, 10 in lint, and the remain* der in oats. There are about 60 acres of fown grafs. Oats are fown in March, and barley in the beginning of May* The beft croft land is let at L. i : i : 0 per acre; the beft pafture
at
|ti2 8. ; tbe worft^t 2 s. 4d. Th^ average reol of fi^rPM ii In 50. -The TtqX of the parifli ^ L. 920 per amfuin^ U i%> doTurcs arcfuiTOttiuled wi(h wood| t|]ie farmery arp convimt cod of their, great atility. Jiarvcft» in g^neral^ comqMAOfp about the beginning of September. The pariih ufually ex- ports one-ibttrtk of Ibe fcodiKe. la 17829 thrfeJourth3 off the crop were deftroycd by tUl £coft. in 1 783^ the cxo^p wa^ remarkably goodt leed being procured at a diftaoce^ and this ieafon beiog favourable. The heritors gave a gen^oi}^ aiG(- taace to their tenants^ Heace^ the bad effoAs of the ieafoq 1782 were not fo fevefely fcl| as was at firft dreaded^ Ihief #ai laeai fold at L, 2 :6 : o per load of 16 fion^. The £i«- mers who were io fortunate as to have any of the for* mer crop» got an additional price for it : But this, fell heavy •on the poor labourer; efpecialiy as be was often obli^dto re* main idle, the tenants being iiaabk to employ him. ,
PopubUkn.'^Tdtj years ago, the inhabitants were 6oo. TbeH principal caufe of the depopulation fince that time has beea the eniargiog of the &irms. The return to Dr Webfter.was 521. In 17791 the number of inhabtianu was 484.
Malct - "" * * T ^^3
Femalee - . - . - a6i
Annual average of births • • . xo
■ ■■ ■ r, ■■ marriages « - « 4
Heritors (only i refides) .- ... 3
Farmers - - - - - ai
Houfehold iervants, about < « - * 45
TradeTmen - - - . , - . 17
Scccdcrs - - - .... 16
Poor - 9
Yearly collection for their &ppDrt about Xi. i6.
Labouring
jLiDonniig norlcf * * • * • » ' » ' yy
Toufig horfb • * 1 < . • '• « ^^
Iffilk cowis and Uack cattle ... *• 505
Bleep ' • - • • • • 1000
' Prici rf LMur a fid PrwifiMs.^-^A cbmlnoii laiMarer's ' ^jps ve I s. per day. With the afEAaoceof hit wiie, he b able to feppott hii famify. Tbe women co^kribute mock bjr Tpbdmng : An ordinary hand will earn 4 d. per dayC Btea Servants get L. 6 ; women L. 3 : 5 : o ^r mmum s carpenters 'get X s. ($ d. and taylors i si t d. per day. Fifty years ago, lens were 4d. butter 3^d. per lb. and cheefe ad* Now^ hens are i s. butter 7^ d. and cheefe 3 d.
CSmnb and S/ig^m/.— One half of the church is an old o^ thedral. The other half was added more than a century ago. The value of the ftipend is L. 80. Mr Lockhart of Card- Wath tt patrott.
^«ifJ7»itf//«— Within the bounds of this pariih there are ibur camps, all of a circular form, fuirouoded with one or two deep ditches. One named the Caftledykes has two fub- temnean pafTagcs, leading from the eaft gate. There air twb birge cairns of fiones^ one (landing on a hill called Wallbra^, meafining in circumference 107 yards. There are many fmaller bnes in an adjoining mooir. Several have been open- ed, which cotitain a coarfe coffin, compofod lof fiat fione^ The other large cairn ftands on the top of Tinto, which fig. Aifies a hi/J efjlrtf and is faid to have t|ken its name from the Druids keeping a contitaocd fire on the top of thb cairn. On a round hill at the foot of Tinto there is a circle, fur- ^rounded with large ftones, ereAed on one end, clofe to one another. At the diftance of xo yards, there is another wall,
nearly
if Covington* 193
nearly refembling the former. In this place a large mound of earth is ereAed. This was probably a (hcriflPs-court, where, on a certain day, the adjacent country attended to have ju& tice done. The name of the^c^cent farm feems to favour this tradition, for it is called Sheriff- flats. According to im- memorial tn^itJon, a bullock's (^m full of gold lies buried in this place. ' Covington was formerly the feat of a knight ba- ronet named Lindfey: In 1420, the laird applied, and ob^ tained leave frei^ parliament to boild a fort, which was finith- ed in 1442. The walls are 10 feet thick. It was made firong by every circumftance that art could invent. An old Avord of very large fize, called Wallace's, is ftill prcferved. The ruin contbues a grand and majeftlc objcdl.
Mr/ceffaneous Obfervationi — ^The fuel ufed here is coal. Tlie
di (lance from the coal hill Is about 9 miles 2 The price there
15 3 d per cwt. When laid down here, the price is nearly
doubled. There is one village called Thank cirton, beauti*
fully fituated on the river Clyde. There is a bridge over the
Clyde at this village, built in 1778 by public contribution. It
is kept in repair by the county. The roads are made and
repaired by the ftatute labour commuted. The people, in
general, f uppofe that turnpike roads would be of advantage*
Some farmers in this pariOi purfue improvements with fpirit ;
but the climate ftruggles againft theiti. Plantations of wood
in this part of the country would be of great advantage. The
inhabitants, in general, are very humane, induftrious, decent,
and devout. None have enlilled in the army fince 1778.
Vol. I. B b NUM.
194 Statl/lical Account
NUMBER XXIV.
PARISH OF TROQUIRIL
By thi Rtu. Mr JoHK EwART.
Situation^ Extent^ &i/i and Surface.
THIS parifh is in the ftewartrf of Kirkcudbright, aod in the prcfbytery and lynod of Dumfries* It is bounded by the river Nith on the eaftj by the panfh of New Abbey on the ibuth \ by Lochrutton on the welt ; and Terregles on the north. It is about 7 J miles long, and about 4} broad. The ioW is various, but generally light. Mois and moor form, perhaps, the fourth part of the pariOi The country is partly flat, and partly hilly. Part of the hills is covered with heath or coarfe graft. There arc tew rocks.
Rivers. — The river Nith produces falmon and fca trout, which yield in the fpring 6 d. per En^liih lb.; 3d. and a^d. per lb. in fummer and harvcO. In the two laft feafbns they arc in greateil perfe^lion. Nith is navigable with large vef- iels at the foot of the parifhj and in the middle with fmall lime and coal ones from England. Sea mud comes xm thii riveri and is ufed for manure with much fuccefs*
Rental^ Agriculture^ toV.— The prefent rental of Troquirc, VIZ. of Iand| is • • - • L. 4759
The
%f Troqutre* 195
The rental 10 1752, afccrtaincd before the Court of Scflion, tf . - ' . . , . L. 950
Hence, the prefent rental is five times the rental in r 752. This ▼aft rife of laii<l in i roquire is m a great mcafure owing to the people having abandoned a wretched mode of hufban* dry^ in which ^hey laid all tneir dung up n :, 4, or 5 acres, of a fidd adjoini.>g to the houie, wh ch they called crofting kmd^ upon which they yearly fowed bear or barley, that yielded the farmers only four or five ior one, owing to if bc- mg choaked with weeds. The re(\ of the farm had no other maoure but what dropped from the cattle m the field ; con* fequentiy, their outfield crop, beiug oats, was very poor, and could karceijy pay the labour.
Laying lime upcA the land, which began near 40 years ago, chiefly contributed to the improvement o^the land and the rife of rent. Some little ibcU marie and Tea uiud, which were only got on fo le fanns, were Ukewife ufed. rhe^e means of improvement introduced a fenilble mode of. hufbandry, and will account for the great rife of land in Troquire, together with the increafed price of cattle and grain.
Ploughs in Troquire - » - "58
Suppoiiog every plough to work 25 acres in wheat, harley,
oats, peafe, potatoes, turiiips, and fadow, there will be un*
der tillage ycatly ... 1450 acres
Arabic land not m tillage • • 3^2c
Total arable land ta the parifh 507c In woods and plautations, at ieall - - j jo
There are 4 oat mills, i wheat, x waulk, i barley mill, in 4»e pariibs 9 breweries^ ai^d 9 malthpufes.
The.
1 96 StafiJiicaJ Aceouni
The rotation of crops in the grcateft part of the parift IS ufualiy as follows : In the ift year of breaking up Und oats are Town ; ad year fallow or potatoes ; the land b ma- nured \ 3d year w}ieat ; 4th year barley, or fooietimes oats, ^ith rye grafs and red clover; 5th year rye grafs and clover; 6th year, the preceding rotation is recommenced. Oats are the prevailing grain. The beft arable land in the parifli near Pumfries is rented at L. i ; 10 : o per acre : There are few at L. 2. Arable land . fown with graft feeds yields, the firft year, about L. a : 10 ; o, when the produce b fold for hay; the fecond year about L. 2. The rent of arable land, in ge- neral, is from 25 to 18 (hillings per acre; Ihe farms are ge- nerally inc^ofedi and the ttnants find much advantage from inclofures. Wbcat is ufually fown about the beginning of OfVober; oats in March and April; blrley in April and May. "Wheat and barley are ufually reaped in the beginning of Sep- tember, and pats about the middle ; in dry iummers foooer. Two things are dill wanting to make the agriculture moie perfect ; afliduity to increafe manure by compofts, ftraw yards, &c ; and attention to keep the horfes always employed, which might be done if fallowing were increaied. What is called thr fervitude $f tenants^ and bailie work, to the proprietors of land, is now almoft entirely aboliflied in thU partfli. It was a cruel mode of oppreifion.
Price of Labour^ £5V.— iThe ufual days wages to men is i s. without victuals ; to women, for working at hay and weed- ing, 6d. Carpenters, bricklayers, and niafons, get about IS* S d. The wages of a man fervant yearly is firom L. 6 :6 to L. 8, befides mamtenance. A maid iervant gets from L* 3 to L. 3 : 10 : o. 1 he price of providons is about the double of what tl^ey were 47 years ago. They are now abont the ]^dmt)urgh prices^ except poultry. Many famiUes are chiefly
fapported
Ibpported b7 potatoes. Thqr furnifh the £sirtners with (eed and dang, who, from this confideration, ailow them to get the crop, which they take tip at their own expence. This pradice deierves to be adopted in the neighbourhood of towns and viUagesi where there is much dung.
Pij^&l&ii.— The inhabitants of Bridgend, of all ages, are
I30Z The inhabitants of other parts of the pari(h are 1 298
Total inhabitants of all ages and denominations a6o«
Mechanics in the village of Bridgend :
Shoemakers; matters, journejmen, and apprentices 84
Smiths • m • - • • 4
Coopers - • - . - 3
Clogmakers -. « • - • 6
Bakers - • - • . • 3
Taylors - • • - • • 26
Weavers ' - • • • 20
Wrights and carpenters - . • 11
Mafons - - - - . ^
Sawers of wood - - - - • 4
Bricklayers - - • - S
Maltfters, befides fervants - • • 2
Ropeoiakers - - • • 3
Butchers • - - • 8
Barber - - • - 1
Brewers, befides fervants ... 2
bleacher ? • - - - »
Total 186
|Aechani«s
|
if8 Me |
duuucs in other parts of the parlllu |
|
|
Smiths |
J • - - |
|
|
Wcavoi |
- |
13 |
|
Shoemakov |
. |
|
|
Taylors |
m m m m |
|
|
Wrights |
# • • • |
|
|
Total |
37 |
|
|
Mechaoio ia Bridgend |
i8( |
Total mechanics in Troquire 223
Of the above number of inhaUtaots there are 200 Papifts, including the children of Papifts. About a fourth part of that number is an influx of Irifli Papifts, who withm thefe few years have fettled in Troquire. A Popilh prieft officiates among them ; and he has met with no difturbance for Chefe 50 or 60 years paft*
There are fome Seceders, Relief people^ and M<MiUanices» who have places of worfibip In Dumfries,
Church and S/f]^iii/.— The church feems to have been a chapel oF eafe* The ftipend is L. 8 1 : 2 : 6. The glebe con* fi(h of about 1 1 acres, which might let finom 30 to 40 (hil* lings the acre. The manie was built in 1707, and has got feveral repairs.
Scboots.-^Thtrt are three fchools in Troquire. The fala- ry of the parifh fchool is L. 10 yearly. The falary of the fchool ereded by the Society for Propagating Chriftian Know- ledge L. 10. The falary of a fchool in Bridgend L. 2 : 10 :o* Beiides thefe three » there are three other fchools for ground- ing
lug young children in the Bridgend : One of them has lo i* yearly from the feflion ; the other two teach for fchool wa« ges. All the teachers in ichools get fchool wages.
Mifceilaneous Ot/ervaihns, -^The air is pretty healthful. Some ihell marie is found in the parifh* Ihe fiihmg is let for L* 75. Fuel is expeniive. Coal is fold at 7 d. and 8 d. per cwt. Four hundred acres were lately planted , moftly with fir and Odk. i here are a confiderable riumber of na- turai woods. 1 here are 6 tour wheeled chaifes^ and about 50 carts* The roads are greatly improved. The military road that goes from Dumfries to Portpatrick runs through Troquire. The high price of grain was much felt by the poor in the years 1782 and 1783. Several heritors contri-r bated fome money, when mobs were threatened, to buy oat^ whicfay being converted into meal, were fold below the mar-^; ket price. Ihe village of Bridgend contains many beggars. In it, and other parts of the parilh, above 40 get alms, fomo: bybeggmgi others from the colle£tbns and parifli funds^ which amount to about L. 34 yearly. One female has been executed for child murder. Two perfons have been baniih- cd. Only one has been guilty of fuicide in the courfe of 47- years. A few young men go to fea : Several enlift in the army* The mode of living and drefi is much improved.
NUM.
3QO Stati/iUaIJcc9unt
NUMBER XXV.
PARISH OF MUIRAVONSIDE^
£y tie Rru. Mr John BertHaii.
Namff Situation, Extent, Sci/, &V.
THIS p^ifh takfs its name from the river Avon, whicb divides the co nties of Linlithgow and Stirling. It is fltuated in the latter, although it belongs to the prcibytery of Linlithgow, and fynod of Lothian. It b bounded by the parifhes of Borrow ftounnefs, Linlithgow, Torphichen^ PoU nont and Slamanan. It is about 6 miles long, and 2 broad* The cad end is of a light gravelly foil ; the rell clay, with a mixture of mofs and moor A coniiderable part of the pa- riOi has been incloied within thefe few years. The farms are very fmall : The rents commonly arc high : The harveft ear- ly. • There are 50 ploughs in the parifli % and no farmer has more than one. As the farms are imall, grafs parks are com- monly taken from year to year for feeding cattle. More corn is raited than is nercflary to fupply the parifli. Twenty acres of hnt were fown laft year. The rental of the parUh may be about L. 2000.
Population — The return of the population to Dr Webftct is faiil to h ;vc b.xn i4'»y; but there icems to have been a fnilUkc here, as one wuo knows it well ailerts^ that there has
been
of Muiravon/ide. 201
!l)€sn no mateml alteration fince the year ] 745. At prefent, 'the number ofTouls amounts only to 1065. Of thefe, there are 302 under ^o years of age. The oldeft man in the parifli is 90. The barony of .Almond has been all-laid out ingrais, and the farm houfes have become ruinous. TJiis may be af- .figned as one cauie, and it fcems to be the principal one, of the decreaie of the population ; but that eftate being now all inclofed, confiderable plantations made, and to be let out in commodious farmsi will add greatly to the beauty and popu- lation of the place. The annual average of births is 45 ; deaths 35 \ but the Seceders^ in general, do not infert their names in the parifh regifter. The number of this feA here is 6^. There are 37 heritors. The grcatcft part of theih Tefide in the parifh* There are no vagrant poor belong- ing to the parifli. There are ao penfioners on the pooi:s roU.
Cburdi and Stipend.^Tht church is old. The .ftipend is 1*. 83 : 6 : 8, at the old converfion of L. 8 : 6 : 81 the chalder ,of viAual. The glebe confifts of 4 acres. The crown is pa- .tron.
Antiquities. ^-^htrt ftill repiain fome ruins of an old ab- rbey, called Manual, on the fide of the Avon, about half a mile above Linlithgow bridge. It was built in the 12th cen- tury. There is an old caftle called Almond hard by the church, which belqags to.the Callander eftate, but is not in« •habited.
Mifcellaneous Obfervations, ^—^htrt are feveral coal mines, and a great quantity pf iron-ftone in the parifli. The fu(;l js coal and peat j but the former is chiefly ufcd. There arc jj 7 mills in this parifli on the river Avon. There is i flour
Vol. I. Cc ani
dot SUrtiJlicql Accmfia
aod I barley mill ; 4 com and 4 lint mills ; % ioqff 9|id % fulling mills ; x bark, i bleeching, and x flint milL .Tbc wages of men fervants, living in the houfe, arc cpmmoal]^ I4, 6 a jear. and of women fervants L. 3. Labourers ^et lod. and X s. per day.
*iu^;-
NUMBER XXVI.
t*ARISH OF PENPONT.
Bj tht Rev. Mr WlLLiiM KetDbn;
NMe^ SituatM^ Extent, Soil, and Surface*
TltEbame of this parlfh is probably derived from pendefit foni, an arched bridgci there being a bridge of one fe* tnicircular archj fupportcd bj t\^o fteep rocks, o^er thfe rivirf Scarh It is of very remote antiquity \ nor Is it known i^hen it was built. The fingularity of the ilru£ture, ifrhcn nbtWhg of that kiiid eXifted here, niighrgive bccafion to the name* At any rate, the name of the parifh is terjr antienti as ap« jpears from Infcriptions on the communion cups, in the be« ginning of the 14th century; PenpoUt is a preibjrtery festt^ and is fituated in the fynod sknd county cff Dumfries; It is bounded by nine parifhes, Glencairn, Tynron, Keir, Clbfe- bunij Morton, Ottrrifdeer^ Sanqiihar, New Cumnock, and Dairy. Nevr Cumnock is in the prefbytery of Air, Dairy in that of Kirkcudbright: The parifh is 16 Scottilh ftatute miles long, and, at an average, about 3 J broad; It extends from ibuth*eaft, at the lower extremity, by a continual afcent j to the north-ureft, where the ground dh the banks of the Scarr^ which has its fource there, is 3500 feet above the level of the river at the lowed part of it. In this traft there arc 4 fteep ridges, lengthways, with 3 deep and narrow glens, each wa«
tcred by a vety pure a^d plentiful ftream.
Tht
dtrs^ Stutl/iicat Aicounf
The lower end is wa(hed by the Nithi a confidenble rmri* Hirhich divides Penpont from Durrifdeer aad Morton, and hj- the Scarr, which is the march between it and Tynron and Keir. On the fouth-weft, the Scarr runs between Penpont and Tynron for 5 miles. The hills on both fides are fo deep and high, atnd th^ bottom fo narrow, rocky, and woody, that the general view is pleafant to thofe who have any tafte for romantic fcenes. At Chanlockfoot, the ridge, which fprings np fuddenly between two valleys, has its face wholly covered with trees, and the other, farther up, with grafs of a beauti- ful green, both of which views are particularly delightful. In the bofom of the north*eaft ridge you difcover Glenquhargen Craig, almoft perpendicular, and above 1000 feet in hdghtli. It has two faces that ftrike the eye, and no other rock is to be feen on either fide. It is a hard browniih whin (lone. Some fmall pieces are fallen down, with (harp edges and angular points. It is one of the greateft curiofities in the fouth of Scot- land. The north-eaft fide i& bounded by the Mar-buro,. which, lower down, is called the Canal. The general profpeft down the rivers Nith and Scarr is extenfive and beautiful, confid- ing of level ground highly cultivated, gentle riCngs, woods, villas, and mountains. The manfe and church (land on a plain, about 30 feet above the Scarr, which winds about, in the form of an S, firom fouth weft to north*eaft. lliere is from hence a diftin£l view of the rivers for 8 miles, firft (e- parate and then united. The pools here and there fhew them* felves as fmooth fiieets of water ; and in floods the low ground h inundated for a mile broad, and 6 farm towns furroundcd to the very doors. Profpefts worthy of notice every where gr^ fcnt themfelves. At the old bridge, ah-eady mentioned, the banks of the Scarr are high, and fkirted with wood 5 the chan- nel rocky, and full of large ftoncs ; the bridge itfelf venerable, by a complete mantle of ivy and woodbine. Very ticar it, the
water
if Petipmh stTj .
Water fitts over a ragged rock, lo feet high, that reaches fro» fide to fide : A little farther down^the Shinnel^ between higk and woody banks, runs into the Scarr at right angles. At this fpot is a large cairn, and the upper end of a fine fiieet of water *, 3 mills, and the houfes belonging to them, in a cluf- ter ; the dam-dyke, 1 8 feet above the rock, clofe to, and bo- low which, is a tremendous mafs of unequal vock«, 100 feet long, among which, as. the fall is cpnfiderable, the water, efpecially aftec rain, <^ rages, foams, and. thunders down j'^ be«- yond, a large wood^ and green bills rifiog fuddenly, and ia various fhapes.
Cairnkinnow is a high mountain Handing iti the middle of the pari(h, and towards the north-eaft fide \ the precil« heighth unknown \ biit it is the higheil land in this line be^ tween the Friths of Solway and Clyde. From the top of it may be feen Airihire, Clydefiiale, Annandale, and Galloway \ and Cun^berlaad and ^YeftmQreIand in England^
The foil is in general fand)^ in fome places ligl^, but moft- ly deep, and capable of great improvement by lime, which, la 15 years, has made an uncommon alteration on the face of this part of the country. The hills are green>. except a few that are covered iNclth a (hort heath.
jtgriculture^ (S'r.— The Scotjtifb plough is chiefly ufed, on account of the fmall ftones fo frequent in a fandy foiU Sow* ing commonly begins on the ift of March, and reaping about the middle of Auguft. All the common kinds of grain, and turnip, potatoes, clover, and rye-grafs, are raifed with fuccefiw \ About 138 acres are fown with barley annually, and 35 with ^heat. In this neighbourhood land lets from i S s. to 1 1. 5 s. yacre* The real rent of the parlh is L. 21500^ which, in
the
tto6 S/atifikat Juduni
the laft 15 yeafSi has been increafed L. 900. There arc many inclofures ', and the difpofition to intlofe leems to iil- treafe.
Rheri, isfe. — ^Near the Scarr, which rifes at the head of ^enponti are likewiie the foarces of the Ken^ whole cotafe extends to Kirkcudbright ; of Afton, which faUs into the J^f ith nciv Nbw Cumnock ; and of the Youghan^ which joins the Nith at Sanquhar. The Scarr runs down the middle of the parifh is milesi and for 6 mort divides it firom Tjrnron and Keir. A vaft water fpout, accompanied with tremens dous thunder and lightningi emptied itfelf near the fource of the Scarr in Julj 1783. Evefy one here was furprifed bj an uncommon flood in the evening. Herds of cattle, and their keepers, were foddenly furrotmdcd : People at work were obliged to flee for fear of being ixiclofed. Hay and timber iirere carried off) one flone bridge and a hod(e, with the wool of 1200 fliecp. Were fwcpt away: Dreadful gnlphs of whole acres were made on the face of the hills. There arc 15 brooks In this parifli. The filh in the rivers or broolrt arc falmon* caught chiefly in July aiid Auguft, and fold at 3 d. per lb. ; fea-trout ; hirllngs, caught in the fame months ; bum-troot; pikes, eels, and parrs. Dowloch is a fmall lake on the topf of a hill, and famous, in the reign of fuperfthion, for coring all manner of difeafes. Thole who reforted to it for relief teft fome part of their drefs to the guardian demon or iajot; By all accounts it has ibme mlnerstl qualities.
Pfipiilatiotti'-^Tbe population of this parifii has Increafed np^ Wards of 100 within thefe 15 years, owing chiefly to the di- vifion of fome large farms; The return to Dr Webfter, how- ever, was 857*
InhabltaDts,
5f PenpanU 107
InhabitaotSi anno 1790 «. • 800
Cameronians - - « 77
Scccdcrs - - - ^3
Annual average of baptifins « • 24
Heritors «. • . g
Tenants . . - 30
Carpenters - - -' y
Malbns • . . • ^
Smiths - - ••4
Shoemakera • «. • p
Weavers - - - 12
Taylors . . - - - d
Houfes - - - 166
Horfcs - - - ISO
Cattle - - - 980
Sheep • w • - 12000
P0^,_The poor in Penpont are tolerably provided for. None go about afkbg alms except 2 lunatics. The kjrk« feillon has L. 450 at intereft. The Duke of Queenfbeny gives a bounty of upwards of L. 10, and like wife 25 fiones of oat^meal. The coUeAions are L. 12 per annum. The whole annual amount of the contributions for the poor, who confift of 25 familieSi and feveral individuah, is about L. 46, Their principal food is oat-meal and potatoes. The articles of clothing, efpecially fhoes, are far more expenfive than formerly; fuel has alfo advanced in price. The rent of houfes is tripled. When a perfon fiands in need of a Durfe as wdl as necefiaries^ a relation commonly takes the charge, and the fefiion pays at the rate oi h. $ per afmunu A cafe of this kmd feldom happens. Fourteen (hillings are allowed for the expence of a funeral. Four*fiiths of the pa* rifli, irhicli is mountainoosi CQ&fifts of flie^p ftrmsj and the
feilurc
SiA Statjfiical AccoufU
foAwc of crop m 1782 was lefs felt here than in many other parts of the ktngdom. The poor belonging to the Camcro* nians and Sfcceders receive fnpplies from the parochial fiinds<9 y^t not one of thefe fcils contribute a farthing to the main- .tenance of the parifli poor : Moreover, many of the eftabliBi- ed .church attend their meetings on particular days, which adds to their collections.
IPtf^^j.— Labourers havefufficient .employment, and ar^ able to fupport their fiimQies. The wages of a man icrvant, employed in the operations of hufbandry, were L. 2 per ofuutm 40 years ago ; now they are*L. 7. The wages of a woman fervant, 40 yea^rs ago, werp 13 s. 4d.; now L. 3. About 40 years ago, a day laty>urer received 6 d. without viftuals, now he receives i s. Carpenters wages are i s. 4 d. a day ; mafons 1 s. 8 d.} taylorsi s. They are all doubled. A man during harveft, 40 years ago, got 8 s. 4 d. ; a woman 5 s. Now a man gets L. 1:3:0, and a woman 16 s. Few reap by the ^y; but, when they do, they receive jBrom lod. to 1 s. ad, without victuals.
Church and S/i^nw/.— The'^Aurch was rebuilt in 4782. Ix is pleafantly fituated on an eminence on the Scarr. The fti- pcnd is L. 86 : 2 : 2, with a glebe worth L. 11, confiding of p acres. The Duke of Queenibcrry is patron.
Improvements Suggefied.-^Thc repairing of roads, fearching for coal, lead, and iron mines, might be attended with ad- iB^antage. The divifion of fome &rms, and the eftabliflimem of a woollen manufaftory, in particular, would be of grc^ benefit. Vaft quantities of wool and woollen yam are car- ried out of this, and the neighbouring pariQies, to a great ibilance. Penpont is fo centrical^ that it is (iid iht farmer;
would
9f ftnpma. 305
WodM be dSrpofed to bring all their wool to it without anj advi^oce on the price. This parifh produces annually for falo afclove 1500 i^on<-s heavy weight| that is, 24 lbs Englilh each; tod ic,ooo ought be found in the circle, beildes fome finer wool, at no great diftance, for particular ufes. Wool has been fold thefe \!mo lait years at 5 s. 6 d* the ftone, and for the fix preceding years confiderably cheaper. The late demand froixi England raifcd the price*
^ii//jiif/ir/«— An old Roman caufeway runs through Tyn* ron < loie to the edge of the Scar* ' Fhere are 2 moats of earthy I obliifc, and 4 very large cairns. The vefliges of Tiber's caftle^ which has been a large building, are to be feen on the banks of the Nith. A fmall part of the wall next the river remains. Foflae are vifible, and fbme entrenchments where it was moft acceffible. It is fuppofed that the barony of Tiber is named from Tyber, or Tiber .us^ There is a Roman en- campment too. The Englifh had a garrifbn in this caAIe in the time of Sir William Wallace, who took it by furprlfe.
Mifcellamous Obfervafyns. — White and red free ftone, and whitiOi grey with red Ipecks, abound in the lower part of the parifh. There is calmftone, and plenty of ruddle. Blue grey, and brownifh whin, are very abundant. Arches of bridges are built with whin. Water ftone is a blue grey, dreiTes neatly, and is ufed in building. There are fome rocks compofed of fpar, whin, and lime ftone. Large tranfpareat white ftones are found at the head of Glenmannabum* There are fome mineral fprings, but of little note, impregnated with iron. Marie is found in leveral bogs. There are indications of lead, iron, and coal. At prefent, coal is brought from Sanquhar, at the diftance of 14 miles. At the pit^ 8 cwt. cofts \o\ d. and icils here at Voj-. I. P4 3^^
t la Statijiical Accmm
3 s. Hieiv are 3 orchards ia the parifht and a few fruit trees bcfides. There is one village at the church, #hich cootains above 100 inhabitants. The people in this parifh are clean and ftout| atid generally above the middle fixe. Their houfes, drefs, manners, and mode of living, are mnch improved. Since 1770, there have been ic ftudeats at the Univerdcy from this pariih. The mpft preyalent diftei^pen are colds. The rheumatifm is frequent. Fogs, which are tmfavQurable to health, creep up from the rivers. There are 10 bridges. Turnpike roads were begun to be made laft fum- s^er in this part of the country. Single coal carts pay i| <L toll near Sanquhar } and it is fuppof ed that each will carry fuch additional weight, with equal cafe, as to procure a profit pf 7 d. The ftatttte work is obmmuted.
yv^^
^Cranumdi jiii
J^ARiSii Ot CRAMONb^
Sfttdaiiott, Surface^ and Ektent*
THIS parifli lies in the couxities of EdihbnrgK ancl Lixi« lithgowi on the foiith ihore of the Frith ot Forthi in« to which the river Amon^ the boundaiy of the two Qiires^ lalb at the village of Nether Crsunbnd, It is in the prefby- ter^ of Edinbuighf and the fjnod of Lothian and Tweed« dale. It is boiindcd on the weft bj the parifhes of Dai« meny and KirUifton i pn the (bath of Gorftorphine and St Cuthbert's ; and by the latter parifli on the eaft. The nor* them boundary, b formed bj the Forth, which is here from 4 to 6 miles over. The eaftem part of the parifli is rather flat, though tKe grodnd in foine places forms gentle rifings; Near the centre of the fouth fide is a craggy ridge, called Gorftorphine Hill, the north end of which runs into thi^ parUhy and the fout|i end of it into tMt whence its name is derived.' The heigkth of this hill, which bears fome re« femblance to the figure of a cock's comb, with indentations in feveral places along its fiimmit, is abont 470 feet above the level of the fea« To the north and weft of it, the fiice
oi
* This account is properly an abftra^ merely o^ i very va« ' loable MS. tntitolcd, ** the Topography of Gfamond PariHi/^ written by John Wood, Efq; which it is hoped the author will take an early opportunity ot communicaiing to the publico
lis Statifiical Account
of the parifh becomes more variegated than the eaftem fide^ being diverfified with rifing grounds in feverai places. But the principal ornament of the weft part is the river Amon» whofe banks, from above Craigiehall to Nether Cramood» are high and fteep, almoft wholly covered with wood, and frequently chequered with bold and overhanging rocks. The land rifes in general to Tome heighth, even cloie to the fea ihore ; there are, hovc«er» ia three, or four places along the (hore, fandy plains or links. The length of the pariih m^ay be about 6 miles ; and the breadth fcarcely ever exceeds 2 ; though the (hape is rather irregular, afliiming at the weft end a kind of furcated figure. It contains in all about 3890 Scottifh acres, including the two fmall iflands of Cramond and Inchmickery.
Name.'^Tite parifli is denominated from the principal vO* lage, where the church ftands, called Cramond, finiated at the mouth of the Amon. Cramond appears evidently to be a contraflion of CaeratMn^ derived from jtmon^ a Celtic word, flgnifying a river in general, and Caer^ whichi in the Isunc language, fignifies a fort, via. the Fcrt on the Amom.
ManufaRures. — The u^n manofa^hnre carried on by Mcflfcs Cadells and Edington, who now employ a capital of above L. 30,000, confiAs of 3 forges, 2 flitting mills, and 2 fteel furnaces, at which bar iron is manufa^red into Uiftered, fquare or faggot, and German fteel, hoops and rolled troti, rod iron, boiler and pan plates for fire-engines, fockmoolds, anchor palms, bolts for fhip building, and other articles. AHove 30 men and boys are employed immediately at the works, fome of whom earn 26 s. per week, and none make Ids than 4 s. There are alfo here fpade and nail manufac* tures belonging to the fame company, ia which above 450
cwt.
^' rf CramofuL 4fy
cwt. oFnaSSf and tooo dozen of fpades, are annn^YTy made^ and a file manufaAure has been lardy eftablifhed. Thefe throe branches employ about 50 men and boys, who make firbm 3 s.^to 20 $• per week. Much fteel is exported from hence to India \ and the greateft part oF the rod iron made here fa fcnt- to Stirlmgfhire, where the Craniond company employ above zoo men to manufaOure ft into nails, of wtiich large quantities were^ before the late war, exported to Ame- rica.
The iron ufed at the Cramond works comes chiefly from Ruffia aud Sweden, upwards of 1000 tons being imported from the Baltic yearly. The. average coft per ton (including coftoms at 56 s, and freight from 8 s. to 15 s.) is L. 17 for RuiBat and L, 18 : 10 : o f 'r bwedifh iron \ but a very fine kind of the Utter^ the produce of the famous mine of Danne<* mora in Upland, called Oeregrund's iron, from the port where it is (hipped, comes to L. 24 per ton. This fort is ufed folely for making fteel. J hefe different kinds of iron are 50 per cent, dearer than they were in 1780, which rapid advance has lately induced the proprietors to eredl furnaces at Clyde^ near Glafgow, with the view of making bar iron for Cra« mond^ which they hope will, in a few years, furnifh them with iufficient materials, and fave the great fums remitted for that article The Cramond works- are fupplied with coal from the Grange, near Borrowftounncfs, a property of the MeflVs Cadclls, and they annually confume about- 1600 tons, which are brought in floops for is. 6(X. per ton freight ; prime toil and oth^r charges may be about 7 s. The forge ham« Ihcrs weigh' from 4 to 6 cwt. each, are wrought by water^ and make from lao to 160 ftrokes in a minute. Thefe ham- mers, and other caft iron articles ufed herej are made at the Clyde furnaces.
Rent.
ftf4 ttoH^al Jccmmi
i?^.— Of the 3890 acres, eftimatcd to be the content of the parifh, there ai-e about 2800 diftributed into 26 farms firom 4^0 to 280 acres each, at a rent of 20 s« to 50s« per acre * • « h*^B^o o •
760 in thrpofleflion of the refpcAive proprie- tors, valued at • . * 1300 o o 240 let to federal different perfons in fmall pro-
portions^ at a rent of • - {50 o a
^ of wafte and hilly ground, fuch as Corftor-
phine hill, &c« • « - 20 o •
L.6700 o • making an average of about 35s. an acre. The rent of the iron- works may be reckoned L. 26o» add the village of Cra- xnond may yield about L. 140 per annum^ fo the total rent of this diftriA is L.7ioo. The valuation in the ceis^books of the county of Edinburgh, is L. 9426 : 13 : o, and in thofe of Weft Lothian, L. 705 Scots, in all L. 10,13 1 : 13 : o.
Produce. — ^Thc produce of the land, taken one year with
another, may be thus edimated :
Acres. Prodacc Price. Total per tcre. Total Produce. Totil per acre. Value.
Hay 800 160 ft, 6^d. L.4 610 128,000 ft. L.3466
|
Wheat |
700 62 bl. 21 s.. |
616 |
6 |
4.5S«>bl. |
4777 |
|
Bcam&Peare450 6bl. 13 s. |
3.8 |
0 |
3,000 bl« |
1950 |
|
|
Oats |
400 7bl. 14 s. |
418 |
0 |
2,800 bL |
i860 |
|
Barley |
300 6bl. 1 6 s. |
4»6 |
0 |
x,8oo bl. |
1440 |
|
Potatoes |
150 30 bl. 7 s. |
10 10 |
0 |
4,500 bl. |
1S7S |
|
P^fture |
750 at 40 s. per acre |
« |
• |
1500 |
|
|
Fallow |
250 |
m |
• |
• |
|
|
Wa He lands 90 |
m |
• |
20 |
||
|
Straw fold |
in Edinburgh and elfewhere |
" |
412 |
||
|
h. |
X7,ood |
||||
|
' |
which |
9f Cramond. is 15
wUcb IS at the rate of above 87 s. an acre ; fo that the land rent is equal to about two-fifths of the produce. '
Crv^.— Haj is the principal article raifed in this diftriA, the great demand for that commoditj at Edinburgh, fccuring a conftant market. It is produced from red and yellow clover- feed, mixed with rye-grafs^ and is cut early. The frequent fepetttion of this crop has leflened the returns ; formerly t or 10 pounds of clover feed, along with 2 buQiels of rye- grafs, were fufficjent for an acre, and produced great crops two years fucceffively ; now it is fgund difficult to raife hay the fecond year, although double the quantity of clover-feed is uied. Thefe feeds are fown with the foregoing crop of barley, wheat, or oats, the ground being well pulverized. Hay is a great favourite of the farmers, bong an article eafy to difpofe of, and cheaply reaped ) the expence of cutting and making ftldom exceeds j; s^ an acre, even when the acre produces above 200 fioncs. Sometimes^ though rarely, a ie« iond crop is made in the fame year,
"Wl&eat takes the lead of all other grain here, the farmers being Induced to fow as great a quantity as poffible, in order that its lucrative returns may better enable them to pay the high rents common in the parifli. It is fown in every fitua- tion^ on every foil, and cSttn with very little attention to the fhte of the ground, by which, and by frequently repeating this Impoverifhing article, the crops are by no means fo good as they were formerly. Of this alteration the farmers are now become fenfible } and, though they ftiil endeavour to have a coofiderable portion of their lands in wheat, they are more attentive to have the ground on which it is fown in good con- dition. Summer fallow, potatoes, beans and peafe, and rag* ^ghj (i. c. two or three ploughings after a crop of hay) ftem
now
•i( Stali/lual Jccmmi
BOW to be the fyftems moft generally adopted for preparing the land to bear a crop of wheat.
Beans and peafe^ iingly or mixed together^ are raifed in confiilerabk qiianties ( part is Town in drill^ and regularly huife hoed» though this practice i& £ar firom being gcneraL Oatt are ftill n«uch cultivated, though not in fo great a pro» portion to o'her giam as formerly. Uotch oats havr» in ibme places, lately b<*cn tubftituted imtead ot barley i as they are well adapted to ute fuwing, and thus enable the £u*incr to work ai^ land in th^iauie P>>inn<rr as for biirlcy. A large quantity ot barley was formerly railed in th» diirri^U where the whole dung of the farm yard was ulual:y put on the bar* ley landi whuh with fitqucut pioughirg^i injured a lucrative return. But of U^e, the drni] bcn^ almolY entirely allotted to the wheat, the DarLy uas UcUineU ^n quanry, and be- coiiic fo u.'proiiticy that Some farmer > have entirely given up that article, fubftituting in its place Dutch oats as Defore mentioned, (he quantity of barley produced in the pariih^ iS| howeveri by no means triiSlng.
Potatoes form a great article of produce^ the yicinlty of Edinburgh affording an opportunity of difpofing of them to advantage. There are fome turnips^ cabbageS| carrots, and yams, cultivated here, though the quantity is very fmall. The yams are a very produAive crop, never yielding ids than 50 bi)lls, and fometimes 100, of 28 l^ones each, per acre, even without dunging the land. No part of the pafture ground is let at lefs than 30 s. an acre, and fome ?ields a rent of 45 s. and 50 s. the produce is therefore moderately eftimated at 40s. per acre*
I^otaihfi s^Cr^.— No certain rotation of crops prevails in
thia
ev^9 ^^^sdiy adopted: li^ ycari jTuminer falluw, or hay and rag faugh; ^ ^^'^\ I Sdj.oats ; ./fih^ beans and pe^f<? ; 5th, bafdey^/kh|^* ,Qr, ill, fuiufner-falloi^i 2d, wheat jjdj ^aas i^^tb, i^bcat 5 ;5ih, barlr^ j 6th, hay. _
Jifofiurif^^rTh^ principal manure is Aable and ftrcet dung from jutioburgh and iiCith, of wuich about 10,000 cart loads fxc annually brought iuto this diifa'id, that, one with another, coli; about x s. prime, coft, and x s. 6 d. for car- ria^» makiog .a total cxpencc of 1^1250, and much the lame quantity of liable dung, &c. may be made within the parifli. The long continued ule of the town dung has tilled the foil full of every kind of annual weeds, in particular, bird-feed or wild muilai;d| called here JhaUrich, of which the fields are in one coiitinued blow m the early part of fummer. Sometimes time is ufcd'from* Burdyhoufc or G\U xnerton, of which 40 to 80 bolis of (bclb are 'laid on each acre, and coft i s. 4 d. per bolL M.irle was ditcovered Ibme years ago, on the farms of Marchfield and Craigcrook, where a conGderable quantity was procured ; but tht work* iag it becommg very ezpenlive, is now difconttnued, aud the pits are drowned.
i
ImpUnunts of HuJbandi'yJ'-^SmTLlYs chain plough, drawn by two horfts, IS generally ufed, which is much preferab;e to the old Scots ploughs, that required four hoHes and a dri- ver. Harrows are generally of the old kihd, with 4 buUb and 20 iron teeth, improved by flots iniiead of rungs ^ there are alfo fome of Lord Kames*s harrows ufed here. Dung carts hold above 29 cubic fecf, are mounted on ftoat narrow wheeb 4 J feet diameter, with iron axles, weigh about 5 cwt. altogether, and ufually carry 16 cwt, two hories being • Vol. !• ' * E c yoked
9>8 Su^kaAimm
yoked to each % but fingte horft caret fft dhcn dUlp li vhkh it is aflerted one borie ean Anm ii cwt. ai cafilf m two do i6 io the forner. Corn orlt «f fimpk i|iadiiiic% mduated occaCoiully upon the wbeels of ih^ Aing mrtB» for {giving hay or unthreihed grab, llierc wtt towf drill ploughs i jdenty of ftpne rolien 5} fiect long, and 14 indici diameter ( a few of Mr Sandiland't fod-cuttert} fbmnc very complete threlhing macbines upon a large Icale; and one df a peculiar cooftruAion invented by Mr Robertfon 91 Gfan- ton» wbtcby though by no means comparable ia ftrpigth to the former, anfwcrs the purpofe fufl|cient)y, and* coftn^ pnly L. 20, is within the reach of even tbc infcrior older of farmers ••
Draugbt Cif//r.-*AU draught wor): in tl|e porifli is |nw formed by horfes, which come chiefly firom linlithgow and Lanark (hires, meafure from 15 to t6 hands high, and coft £rom Lh 16 to L. 20. There may be about Jtoo horfes now employed in hul|iandry Fork, whereas the nuuiber was far* merly double, when £f>ur horks wcr^ ahnoft univcrlaliy yoked to each plough.
Ffius ef Latour^^n^htrt are aboo( 100 plooghmea and farters, whofe annual wages ate £rom L. 4 to JU 5 in inomcy, 96 s. for kitchen f, 10 s. fiortwopairof (hoes, 6^ boUs of pat^mea), diet in harveft, a froe houfe and garden, the car* ria^e of their coifb^ and fome (mail perquifites, ail which
* Of thef^ iipptempnts, Smfill'i plough (pfts L. a, n duag SMit coiqplete, L.8 : 8 : o^ a corn cart 15 s. and a 'fibnc roUer with the frame L. a.
t KiUkn is an allowance tnftead of milk| b^ttCTi (ioaU beer, ^ (ome other arti^ of Ids va^e.
^f be modcrnelr cftinuted at L. 13 ; a grnt increaTe wheii cedipared with their wages in I76<?, which were no mort riktti L 8, inehidiiig e»ery article % and evea ft late a* 1775* L. 9 was reckoned high emolument. Maid fcTTaibs of foiw aiertgetL.3^«F«''> voAtxt maintained in the hbufei Baramca and other able-bodied labourers are paid at the nteot 5$. and 6 s. per #eek, whei conftantlj employed j When only occafionally, i s. id per day. A mAfon'i wage* kn.gd. a day, and a hay cutter's is.6d. to is.8d. per day. Reapers get from 6d. td I s. * day, and maintenance dwtog harwft. Women working in the fields earn in ge- neral A a day, and are much better employed than former- ly, then now being a great de^ of ho«ing, wefeling, and picking performed by them, infomuch thu they ufually h*ve at leaft one; hal# of the year outwUrk. When not thus enw ployed, they betake tbemfclves to fpinning, at which they icUom make more than gd* a day*
Work br «^e P'*** •* «** '**'**« '"*° *^' '** *^'** '**^ itcut ai $a. per acre on an average, andthrelhed at 6d. per boil. Hay is cut from is. 6d. to js. per acre. acc6rd.ng td the weight of the crop, and made in fdme cafes at ». ptf acre. Stone and Ume dikes built at 12s. per rood, matenals being fiirniOied by the employer , honfes, tarils, aiid ftable* at 35s. dittOk
The fottowing tatjle eihibits a comparafi»e ttaterf the prke«oflaboorini76o, I77S» »"*»79<'- * ^. , .
v^^" r--"* r^" f^^' . r^"^
,7«oL.8 . 0L.1I6 tiL.o 6 7L.<* « <iL'«» *» * ,„. 5,ao a6o 00 to ot4 ooj
fijhericii
^2d StahjiicaJ ^ccHlmt
FIJbertei.—Tht^ROiCTks ire at i W ct>6> Wc oyRer^flfifi cry being much' drgen^m^ed from wliat h traf abddt jcr years ago, when eleven krge bosttk b&fen .Ing to Cratnoiid were conftantly occnpiccf ^during the ftaf -n lii '"dragging oyfters, the greatcft part bf irliicll tra§' fold toT)utch veficlsar an average of 4% the herring bar?e1. ' The ft^lf^t V^ therf fo prodi;iftivc^, that it was ufurfTor al)oar with: five &ands tv make ]ios. a day ; but they ai*e hoW fo much deftroyed, pro? bably with over Tilhing» as to employ kt prefeht n6 more^ than 4 or 5 boats, 'and thefc^only occafionally. The* fcalps' about* Inch Mickcry, belonging to Lady drecnwicTx, a»e let at a rent oF L. 24 prr annum^ to the Newhavch *6fhcrs.* The Amon formerly' abounded with a virfety of fifli/ fiich at trouts, grilfcs'*, fome falmon, aYi*d great plenty'bf'finelts ;• Ijut owing to liming'the adjacent grblinds, ^and Waterlog flax in the river, it was for fome yeart aTmoft ti>taliy '^defert^d by thcfe different kinds cf fift*, i^^kh art ftill extrertiely i^arce. Whales have fometimes been flranded on the iands here, parti- cularly in 1690, when no Icls anumWi-'than l5»'thfiugjliclPfhe very finalleft fort, were left %y th6 tide on tbt ihor^AMitti' of Cramond Ifland ; and hi' 1769, two (if the fpetmaidsii kmd, each ;d feet long, w^re caO afliorenot hr from the village of Cramond.
1 ' .. . •
Minerals. — Frec-ftone abounds in fcveral places; -to al/b vlkin-rtonc, moor-flone, and granite. Iron-itone is found a on^ the fhore at Caroline Park ; and there is a great ftp. ].c uuncc of coal on the fea fide in the eaftem part of RoyC ' ^n, diid the adjvcnt lands of Wardic, where large ftams
arc
•A fmaWer/peciM .>f falmon« nr t%c coofinton fidipoa , 01 a yea I old. Naturalills have not determined this point witl^ certainty.
ftfc pferecitftleBoA aBoTc and'BclWr' the tfdAiiaii/^'^e htighbouring people, tsicn-fu* is -fcartei' often cistrryoffftotft f hence pared J kt cml, tixough of ^fi cxcc^ffrg^oi* cfozWfi A pttwas fiink !ri PflForni'WOod mif6B;'but^ f3W abat^ doiied'on atftouritof tHtrbddntfst)f *th«^<dSiF; ahdtKcfe'arl ifl ilfrlinfci'bf KdyftouniHc vrffigft oT KVeril pits." dh tW landi of MarchficMTs a spring- of miiwraV watc^, caKU^ ft* WclPSPSpiv^, >cc6orfc* beneficial* in fcorButid dHb; Tftfl higfaf]^ pargativc'wiicn taken iii quantities; ---::.. •-:
■ • TiHit^/'rfC^ambfi'd.—Tht viHage'dF Gramend,-litttatcd oftf fhc caft* fide' of th? Amon,« ar its jiin6H6ii with^ tbt V^tA] cotnafts 74 fetniUcs, 300*!nhabiRimi, tddKVf irori workmenj faifors, ind Jay labbiircri. It lias a Karbour; (fpedifiecf in thi recdfds^'of "Eatclicquer ts-a opcck. wlthih tbe port cff Ldtftf fo^^rtiidi bcWng7 fl8*ps, thicflt employed* by the iron wbffcs/ meafuring 288 tons, and* tnanried ^ith'-zj ftamcn and -a^ prentices. The Amon is navigable only for the fpace of a
. £AirVil| P^trek; itipends and SeheoL-^ht ehtirth' ir«>l$irf^ gM^ boilt in 16^65 biit bis becfl fr^i^ntly* repaired ^and enlirged fiocc tRSiif' rim?. The patron- fe-*lr' Ramfiy» di Barntoir. The ftipferid, ai augmented in f<?«5; b; mteey/ L. s*'* S • 05 fcw'^Tf 44i boUaroaM. ijj? boflfe^ ifcheati i# boHs ; > meal, fr boBsi with a cormho^ul^HMtiftr, ttttd k gtMfr of above 5 acres of rich laftd. ^hb^ftU^frtfhSAtr^i Tateiy H L. tot^: ii,^itlk4i bbBf^f fc»rky. lliclbtcrcftofti. ijT was granted by Sir John Inglis in li^tPtftf^^^^M^^foldUbl: The fees for writing and Englifh arc i s. 4 d. the quarter ; for Arichiheitc ah<l^liadii 3 ». 'fher^tfe 4)efides^#D pIriSite fehodk ThefchftlMiPat^ ^tht' three Akot^^ fakei» together^ m^ annually amount to 150. . i . - • n^^ 1 ' • ; :: c .^
^ ' Parochial
^roeUal Ftmif,0^Tbc pirochial fiinds tnmnt toi ti» laaOf yidding an nnnrnkmA of above L. {6^ the coUcc* tions at (he chsrdi dooei cooie to about L^ 39 1 and the pro* Ibts of the mortcloihi to above L 7 ammallyi making a total yearly income of above L* loa. With thia fimi» 41 ordioaiy, and 16 entraordioary poor, are fopported and relieved, oe* eofdingtotheir.fevenlneceffitiesi aftcrwhich there cooh laonly remains m fmall furplos, at the end of each ycwi to aogment the capital fund. Thialtftated from the averafi of the receipts and diiburfements for 10 years paft, inclnding in the former the coUeffions on facramental occafioos, the avo» rage of which L. 6 : 4 : o annaaliy i a tnflmg (om compared with the produce at the communion 1690* L* 2o : 5 : o> and 1691, L.23: 15 :o. lowards the end of the laft, and begin* niog of the prefeot century, the annoal contribntiom weie much the (ame as at prefent, irhik theattvagennmber of or» . dM»ry poor is now more than doubled.
CiaritMt Fmtitiatimi. «— Oraigcrook mortiiKatkMi b an tftate of above L. yoofer amutm^ which was mortified for charitable and pious ofes, bot not confined to this parifli, by John Strachan of Craigcrook, about the 1720. The mana- gers are two Advocates, two Writers to the Signet, and the "whok Prcflqftery of Edinburgh, under the controol of the ^rds of Seffiott | and thefi: oaanagers are, in terms of the deed of mortification, direOed ^ to em{4oy a difcreet perfon ^ to uplift the rents when doe, and, as uplifted, to emgAoj « the Ame as the forefaad perfoM order, to poor old meni
k— >The p9pnla|ion has of late years dtmintflicd eoofiderably, as appears Srom the ftllnpiiH ftMnent, taken |pom the pariih itgiacnt
Baptitfp%.
"I
-Hi Hatak Females. TebA.
|
stftotoi^- |
557 |
5«S |
107a |
69% |
|
1700 to 1719 |
54S |
509 |
I05t |
SH |
|
1730101739 |
5«J |
jao |
I03J |
6u |
|
i74»toi7S9( |
5" |
45« |
96a |
48» |
|
1760 to 1779 |
3W |
373 |
759 |
45t |
Tctd m t ccotorj ajio 9368 4878 9871
.JUboDt the i750» whea Dr Webfter nade hit toqairj Ac oumbcff of the people in Scotland, the return from thh ^■rifli was 1468 indiiMdoab. From an eftimate taken 19 9785^ then were then 319 Cuniliest and 1340 imiii vis*
nmiGca. fiadividttdl*.
37 Gcndemen and inrincn, (ferfaata aduded), con- taining • • . • jof 20 Iron workmen • « 91 13 Seamen • • •. 5C ft Wrightii carpenter^ cooper, turner • 4$ 10 Gardeners - • « «* 42
8 Weavers ... * 41
9 tiafbna • « • • . 3f 6 Smiths • • - • * ^S 5 T^loia . • • • . a#
yBmwisr^ haher ■ fantcheK Ihofimaker* ^^^-^^^^ tiAtu
water, and fchoohnaftcr • • * - 3i
193 CoamiMi)abo|iren,4K^ ^ • • 637
3«f f3«»
9f
1?M
smUkwtyHfctmi
fXfk^ 14 fimilinjiinfift |>f I indindaal each, total
1*- I .r. I
« 1 r
1^1
39
»3
4
2
3
3
. I ^
I
10
IX
S2
>3 «4
'5 16
• I '
t ■
14 152
«^
216
^95 144 126
104
36 20
'33 a4 39 M »5
3ij^
'340
« Even this number -has fince dimmiflied; for DtfrBcMr, the prefent minifter of CramoiKi, bx9mg yierj oUigiagly ta- ken a lift of the parUh, foundi that, in the ftthoi y«|r» 1790, it contained 299 families only, and ixia ionk. The caufes of this diminution in the numbers of tl^ people^arep the removal of mechanics to towns, the iailure of the oyfter filhery, and the-increafe of pafture ground. Some jmn |go, a large pluptrty, confifthig oE Qw9 fanas, «te wboUy tu^cd 4ato grx&t ftod ftili remains in. the fame ftate, «/
D^dj^/.— Agues, fome years ago, aficAed the commoa ficpjple fo much during the fpring and fummer months, ^bat the neceflary htiibandry work was with difficulty performed, iijr want of hands. This difeafe ufed to be exceedingly fe-
rcr«
* ttd difiveffii^l btttf fioce the year 177I1 U haa almoft wholly dilappcared from this neighbourhood, which may be attributed^ m a grcal meafurey to the thorovgb draioiog of the gmMmda.
Roadi4mJSiutr*'''^The roads in this diftriA are kept in ex- cellent repair^, being chiefly competed of granite broken ioto finall pieces* and ftrewed on the middle of the road i after Which, the fides and ditches are dear .d of rubbiih, which is thrown over* and foon mcorporatcs with the ftoncs. Th^ poDlic road fipm £djnbcirgh to Qucrensfcrry, one of the pic** ianteft and noft frequented in Scotland, traverfes great part of the parifli, croffing the Amon at Cramond bridge. Many feats adorn this difiriA, Royftoun is one of the largeft hjoo- fts in the three Ijothians.
£mimtii ifiai— *Of perfons meriting to be particularly neiuionedt the moft diftinguifhcd eminent men, who were either natives of« or reiidtnt proprietors in, the parifli, ar^, ift, John Eiphinftone, kcond Lord Balmerinoch| a nobleman noted for his (pirited oppofition to the tyrannical proceedings of Charles 1. §pr which he narrowly eicaped lofing his head, and for being the beft frienc* that the Covenanters ever had, as be fpent a great fortune in fiopport of their caufe. * 2d, Sir Thomas Hope of Grantoun, well known as one of the afaleft and moft foccefiful lawyers at the Scottifii bar, to whofe un- remitted exertions, and found advice, the firm eftaUiihment of the Prcibyterian mode of worfliip in this kingdom is in a great meafore owing^ 3d, Sir William Hope of Grantoun^ his grandfon, who was diftinguiihed for fuperior proficiency in all the £iihionable accomplifiiments of the times in which he lived, particularly for great Ikill in fencing, on which he pubHihed a celebrated treatife* 4th, That fincfcholar, and
Vol. I. F f plealaal
ftftS Smtificci Aceeuni
pleafant coraptiiion, but crafty and flipperyfhldfaiattt OMrg^ MackenziCi firft £arl of Cromarty, whofe otuneroitt woHb ture well knowd. 5th, John LaNr 6f Lamriftoti, CooipCrdDcr Cenerai of the Finances in France, one of the inoft txtfaar« dinary characters that this or any other country has produ- ced, to whore great merit and abilities fuflfeient joftice has Hot yet been done. 6th, George Cleghom^ an cmiuem phf- fician in Dublin, the fihrft pcrion that eftablifhed irhat conidf with any degree of propriety, be called an anatomical (choel in Ireland. 7th, William Ckghom, who was tflbcidfted with his uncle George, jnft now mentioned, as P^rofieflbr of Ana^ Corny in Trinity College Dublin, but died foon afterwards in 1783, at the age of 98, uniTcrially regretted^
Mfjcfllafifous Ofytrvaiiptu.'^Thtre are a coacbeti and 4 fcvw wheeled chaifes in this parifli % 7 Itcenicd aie-houics« The ^corruption among the lower ^lafiesj lays the Rev. Mr {omr^ the minifter, is mournful ; as perhaps in few country parifhes, the liberties and vic^ of the towp ar^ taj where mor^ accs^ rately copied*
NUM^
NUMBER xrm.
PARISH OF DALM^NY. Bj fie Rev. Mr Thomas Robb&tsom, F. R. S. Edim.
Situation and Extent •
THIS pariih U fituated in the iliire and prdbytery of Linlkhgov» in the fynod of Lothian and Twceddale. It is» firom eaft to weft, near 4 miles long, and between 2 and 3 broadt It ii bounded on the eaft by the pariQi of Cramond; on the fqnth bj Cramond and Kirklifton \ on the weft bf Abercocn;. and on the north by the Firth of Forth. There is a diftriA of k upon the weft, not included within the above limiu, called Auldeatby^ entirely disjoined from ic by the pa- rifties of Abertorn and Kirklifton, and which antieatly, it b faid, formed a feparate parUh. The lands of Auld^athy are^ from eaft to weft, about a mile and a half long; and, fjroqpi fouth to north) near a mile broad. They lie about 4 miles eaft from Linlithgow \ partly upon the fouth, and partly up* on the north, of the great road between Linlithgow and £di|^« burgh.
Kame^ and Language. — Dumanaj^ the original name of the parifli, is faid to mean, in the Gaelic, a bfaek heath: of. wlych, probably, a great portion of the higher grouDds m it onoe confifted* The Gaelic, or Celtic, was the original tongue of
^aS Stati/lleat A0Mmt
the whole Iflaad; and Gaelic ntiM8» it mtjrbe ohfisn^ USSk prtrail to a very great extent in it, pHtkohrty hi Scotiand; ior^ although a foreign langoage was Ivonght hither frooi the Continent by the anceftort of the greater part of the pre- fent inhabitants, many original names, particulariy thofc of places, were naturally retained. Thos, Dtmiat (a place in this parifli) is faid to be the Gaelic for « hiU offidlow dctr \* Afmi hill, for a << hiU oncultiTated.'* Inftances of foch dcri- Tations are numerons in the neighbourhood, and eliewhere^ as the Forth^ or the «« water;" Incb Garvy^ or •« ro^gh iflandi* Kiri/ifian^ or «< a place uidofed on a river }* Lmlkbggmt cr <( dog's pool '^ Torpkichen^ or « fight-hill ;* CaUtr^ or ^ oak* ^ wood.** The language which was brought from the Coo- thient, and which is now general over the Ifland, was paniy hitroduced by the Anglo-Saxons, in the fifth eentnry, into England ; and partly by the Dano-Saxons, in the ninth and eleventh, both into En^and and Scotland. Hie Daao-Saxon has continued to be fpoken m the greater part of Scotland, and panicularly what is called the LowUmitt with fittle devi- ation fit>m the original, till near the prefent times, in vrtiich it has been giving place very rapidly to the modem Eoglifh language^ The cauie of this, independent of the compara- tive roerita or demerits of the two dtalefb, has been the union -of the Scottlfli and Englifli crowns ; firom which, as England is the larger and wealthier country, and is, befides, the court end of the Ifland, the Engli(h tongue has gained the alcen- dancy, and become the ftandard of faflnon and of propriety.
Surfaa
* Horns of deer have lately been dug up in its fluru ; and frme bones of fuch dimenfioni, as render it probable that tbey '.Vlooged to. the moofe-decr, or ibme other of the laigeft of the fiag i^edes. * ^
9f l)alfniny. 429
Surface and ^r.-^The parifh lies high in the middle, doi dines fomewhae to the weft, bat a very coofideraUe decliviqr to the (outh, and ftill more to the north» where it termiiiatei with a bold batik upon the Forth. Within it are three long rocky and woody ridges, or rather little hills, Mons-hiH, Dundas hill, and Craigie-hill ; the profpe^ls from which are both remarkably extenfive and diverfified. I'he view from MonS'hill, in particular, has been celebrated for its almoft unequalled compais and beauty* Standing upon the top of this ridge, yott fee the mountain of Ben- Lomond on the weft ; the Ochil and Xomond hills to the north i North Berwick- Law, the Bafs, and Ifle of May, to the eaft ; Pentland and Lammer-cnuir hills to the fouth. BeGdes the Forth, and the numerous towns, villages, feats, woody hills, and rifing grounds, on each bank of It, the charming park of Barn« boogie lies immediately under the eye, charafterifed for itt bold waving furface, compofed of the fineft heights and lawns, and alfo for the variety, elegance, and fancy, of the rides within its circuit. The proipe£l extends, in general, as far as the eye can reach; and fizteen counties, in whole or in part, are faid to be within the view. Different travellers have remarked, that this fcenery is among the fineft m £urop^ This may account for the falubrity of the air, for which the pariQi has been noted i owing, perhaps, to its high fituation, and to its being guarded from the eaft and weft winds by. the lulls within its bounds. The village of Dalmeny, which lies delightfully fituated, nearly in the line between Mons- hill wd Uundas-hill, is, from this circumftance, proteAed from the north-eaft and fouth-weft winds i the former the moft baleful, and the latter the moft violent, in this country. The longevity of its inhabitants has been often remarked : Mr Nafmith, the late minifter, who was 63 years in ofBce hcrej died at 9 1 i Mrs Nafmith near the fame age i the fchool-
maimer
«3* Stati^icalJcmmt
mafter and beidle abote So; To that the four ( made up above 340 years. Near this village^ three peribsi of one family died this year, whofe ages» takea together, wex^ about 340 years. From the parifli regifter it appears, tha^ }n the courfe of thefe 36 years paft, 35 perfons have clic4 between 50 and 60 years of age; 48 between 60 and 70 s 5I between 70 and 80 ; 26 between 80 and 90 } and 3 at 90 and upwards. The purity of the air has, among other coo- iiderations, occafioned a great number of gentlemens fons t# be (ent as booruers to the pari£h fchool here.
Sm/t Acra^ and Rent. — ^The foil of the higher grounds ii^ in general, a (hallow poor clay, for the moft part on a cold bottom, and which, in fcvcral places, borders on tilL That of altnoft all Auidcathy is nearly the fame* The harveft, oa this account, is near two weeks later than in the aeighbounog parifhes of Cramond and Kirklifton. At the fame time, there are fome confiderable tra£b, particularly the declivities and lower lying lands, which are a good loam ; but, in ieveral places, intermixed with fand. In this parMh are alfb a few fpots of what is called perpetual foU^ exceedingly fienile, and which have had no dung, it is faid, in the memory of man. Part of the minifter's garden is of this kind, which has been long known to produce great crops ; and, of late, furpriiing ones of potatoes have been reared. For experi- ment's fake, potatoes were lately planted on a portion of it, fix years running, anl the laft crop was as good as the firft. Dung was applied one year, but the plants ran to ilalks and lcavc5 ; the roots were numerous, but very fmall. The num- ber of acres in the whole parifh is above 4500* Hills, plan- tations, avenues, &c. may occupy about 500 of thefe; about 2300 are in pifture, and 1700 in tillage. Rent Js from f^ s. (0 40 J. the acre : The greater part lets at from 20 s, to 30 s.^
the
Aelteft land firem 309. to 40 s. The total rent cannot b^ iOtiSitj afccrtaincdi as in fome farms it is partly paid ia ViAual, the price of which varies every year \ but it may probably be eftimated at about L-jooo Sterling yearly. The Valued irent is L. 9620 Scots*
Ci«/Snifv.— Prom the nature of the foilj which is in great part wet, the difficulty in culture is to Iceep the lands clean \ hence turnip crops alfo, and the winter feeding of cattle, are In many places debarred. On account of the diftancc from great towns, dung can hardly be conveyed thence \ and little more of conrfe is ufed, than what is made on each par- ticular farm* There is a bed of (hell marl in a marlh ad- Joinmg to Dundas-hill, but it has been little wrought. Lime, which tt in the near neighbourhood, has been applied to % confiderable extent. The principal white crop raifed, is oats ; next barley and wheat* The rotation has here, as in fo many other places, beeh much amended of late years, by introducing green crops, and by fummer fallowing } tuiro of the mo(| capital improvements in hufbandry. Two horle ploughs qpon Stpali's plan, another great improvement, are alio coming into gei^cral ufe, Almoft every farm is enclofed and A^ivided by I^cdges, hedgerows, and belts of planting* The farmers here are both induilrious and intelligent \ and, indeed, this may l^ faid now, of the greater part of the far- mers in the three Lothians, and in feveral other counties.. As rents, however, Icem to be too high in many places, it is to be hoped, from the great number of well informed and public fpirited gentlemen in Scotland, that fuch leafes will be granted, not only enabling the farmers to live, but to live eafily, to make experiments, to run riiks, and confequently to promote knowledge and improvements in liulbmdry* A contraiy coqrfci would both eflentially en«
danger
231 StaHJHeal Acemmt
danger tgricukuret and the population «rhich dtfodM on fi^ We know the happy ftate of the greater part of Lnglandi where renta arc moderate, and the farmers arc enjoying in fecurity, that pknty and comfort, which are the rewards of their labours. Agricukurc may be affirmed to be (wuhuot at all derogating from manufactures aud trade) one oft tbe 010ft permanent pill^irs on which any nation can rvft i and they would highly dcfcrve the name ot patriots, who Ihould firetch forth a generous hand to cherilh huibandmen^ pro- mote improvements beneficial both to the landlord Aud to the tenant, and cnfure the moft ftaole and virtuous mccMne Which a people can pofleis.
Dtpopulation and thi caufe of x<.->From all accounts die p^ riih was loruicrly much more populous than it is at prefcnt. According to Dr WcD(ler, the numbers 30 or .^o years ago, were 1 102 \ but as his furvey appears in this parifh, and per- haps in moft others, to have been confinea to txamtnabie per- 'ions onlv, the whole number of fouls was praDably then 1300 or mure. In -776, tne number ot iouis was 1034; in the prcicnt year 1790, it is only 907. The annual aver* age of births» for a century pall, is 33 s in the former half oif it Irom 1 69 1 to 1740, it is 39 \ in the latter from 1741 to 1790, it is only ^^^ And the decline (needlefs to be dated) has been gradual ; from 1771 to 1780 the number is 25, from 1781 to 1790 it is 18. The depopulation appears to have been occafioned folely by one large diftrift having been turned from tillage into pafiure. This trad may conGft peib haps of 1500 acres, upon which formerly, it isfaid, were 15 or 16 £wmers \ at prcfent, ano for fome time pad, there has not been one. Probably the decrcale of inhabitants in feverai other pariihes has beep owing very much to a fiaijlar caufc* The union of bxm has often been flated u a r^f^fr
of
.1^ depopulations but the faft feems very difput^ble. In inaay inftances population has been |:nown to increafe, on a great farmer's fucceeding to a number of fmall ones. And the reafon is plain to thofe who make an attentive obferv^* t^. A fmall farmer has feldom any cottagers, his men fer« Xants are,una\arried, apd lodge in his houfe or offices. The revcrfe is the cafe of a great farmer ; almoft the whole of his men fervants have feparate houfes, are married, and have a numerous and healthy progeny. The number of farmer« £imiues is Indeed greater in fmalLfarmSi but the whole po- pulation dppeafs In Several inftances^ at leaft, to be lefs. ^ut even admitting it to be greater in general, the huibandry is fpr thempft^rtbadypuny cr^ps are railed, men may be more smmerous, but bo0i men and beads are ^Imoft in a ftarving condition. The recent and excellent pra£lice of uGnjg two horfe ploughs, has alfo been ftated as a caufe of depopula- tion, as it reduces the number of hands neceflary to be em« ' ployed I but beiides the expence of culture being thereby lefTened, and the value of land confequently raifed, it may be obferved, that were, wade lands cidtivated, and the cii!« ture of others carried to the extent, and to the perfeAioo which it ought, and which it is to be hoped, will one day be the cafe, the numbers of thofe who fubfift by huibandry« yrou\d become greater than they have ever yet been. At any rate, population is fariirom depending folely upon agri« culture.
Wages and Expence ef iUvinf^ — ^The >w^es of a day^^^* bourer are now generally is., of a carpenter is. 6d., of .a mafon 1 s. 8d., of a maid-fervant 25 s. the half year, of a ploughman between L. 12 and L. 13 annually, nearly one half of which is paid in money, and the otlier in oat-meal. .]^des which, ploughmen have generally afreehoufe, a lil«
^34 $tatijlieal Acccmtt
tie gardenj carriage of coals and their viOnab in I^rreft. A day-labourer earns between L. 14 and L. 15 yearly; bat from this the rent of his houfe and gardeOi which is ordina* rily about 15 s, is to be deduced. Their wives are occafion- ftlly employed by the farmers on the fields ; at other times, befides earning fomething by fpinning, wafhing, &c. they frequently nurfe children which turns to great emolument. Their children are alfo at times employed by the farmers. In harveft the wages given to the Highlanders who come \f\ great numbers to cut down the crop of moft part of Scot- lands arc perhaps at an average, about 8 d. a day, with their visuals. The eJipence of living among the common people, is at leafty no greater in general, than their incomes. How- ever numerous their families may be, they feldom receive, nor need any aid from the poor's funds. Their food confifts of oat-n^eal porridge, oat-cakes and peare-)>anoocks, barley- broth, with greens^ potatoes, butter- milk and water. Some begin now to ufe wheaten bread and fmall-beer, but feldon) any eat butcher meat. The luxuries in which they indulge, are tea, and what is worfe, whifk^. Scarcely any fail to put ^heir children to fchool to learn ^nglilh, writing, and arith- metic. In general, fervants, labourers, and tradefmen, live worfe, and perform left labour than in England. But while thofe of the fan^e clafs in England have better food and fnore of it, it appears that in faA, they daily eat up their all j tmd hence Vfhen thc|r families are ^ny-wife numerous, re- courfe muil be had to the parifh money. On the contrary, In Scotland, many half ftarve themfelves, in order to make iaving$ I not a £ew lay by feveral pounds Sterling, which they referve for old age, ' for putting their children to ap- prenticeibips, or for otherwife bettering their own conditio, <or that of their families^ A fpirit for enterpriie and for rii^ in^; in the world, chara{lerifes the Scots in generals and this
has (6 remarkably pervaded all ranks for thefe 40 or 50 years paft| that perhaps no people have in fo (hort a period^ xnade fo great advances in induftry, agriculture, manufac« tures, refinement, public revenue^ and private wealth, as the people of Scotland.
PfliT.— The funds confift of the rent of poors-lands, in- tereft of poors- money, weekly colleflions, dues of. mort- cloths, &c* and the hire of a hearfe which was given to ^he parilh by the family of Dundas. The annual income from thefe funds, at an average for thefe ten years pafty is about L.4X, and the number of the ordinary poor, a« bout 35^
&A00/.— -Eoglifh and writing are taught at is. 6d. the quarter : Arithmetic, Latin, and French, at 2 s. 6 d. llic fchodmafter's falary, which conCfts both of the parifh falary and of the intereft of a mortification of L. 300, amounts to about L. 25 yearly, including the emoluments of the felHon« derklhip. The number of fchdars within the pariih is from 30 to 40 } of boarders firom 20 to 30, at 20 guineas^
Churchy (5V. — ^The pari(h church, from the ftyle of its architecture, which is Saxon, or a mixed fpecies between the Greek and Gothic, feems to be 7 or 8 hundred years old. It is a very elegant fmall fabric, all of cut ftone, 84 feet long by 25 broad, but the breadth diminifhes towards the tri- bunci or rounded eaft end. The great door and windows have femicircular pediments ornamented with many mould- ings, and fnpported on the fides by finglc round columns^ without any diminution. The windows have a very elegant iireciao appearance, and were it not for the Gothic capl-
tab
a^6 Statijlical Accinmt
tals of the columns, and the {hafts being too thicl^ fer t^elr licjghth, the whole might be taken for Greek archite£hirc. But the chief beautj of this church b in the infide, which ffrikes every fpeAator when entering from the weft. About one half of the church on the eaft end is covered with vauiN ed roofsi commencing with a brgc iemicircular arch» and di- vided nearly into two eqUal parU, By a fmaller arch fiirthcr eaft^ T^hc arches are richly adorned with- fucceffivc tFrcs of mouidingSi chiefly in a (Tarry (Hape :' The fmall one has a very elegant enrichment introduced into illy conCftxng of a flehder reed ftrung at dift'ahces with little cylinders. The ehurch of Warthwick in England) near Carlifle, and which was built before the times of William the Conqueror, ha^ a flriking refemblance to this at Dalmeny, but is far inferior in' j^int of embelliihnienr. The manfe was built in 1777. The iiipend was augmented the fame year, and coniifts of 5 biolls of wheat; 33 bolls 3 peclcs i Iippie barley; 9 bolls i peck t It|i- pie meaU idT bolls otits; and L. 54 : 17 : i\\ Stcrfmg, amount- ing in whole, this prefent year, to about L. 109 Sterbng, the price of wheat being between 23^ and" 24 s. i- ofbarley between 1 7 and 18s.; of meal between 16 and* 17s.; and of oats Be- tween 14 and I ; s. the boll. The glebe is between 5 and^6 acres of good foil. The laft prefentation was given by the £arl of Rofcbery ; again(( which the lat'e Harfof Hopetoun protefled, as Vice-Patron, But waved his claiai k> the excN cifc of that right till the next vacancy.
Minerals,^- k coal pit Eas 6'ecn recently funk oh thfe Earl of Hopetoun's lands of Auldcathy ; but the fuccefs of the trial is not yet known. Appearances of coal have alfo lately been obfervcd on Mr Dundas's eftate of Newhalls. There is whin- Aone rc;ck> and alfo abundance of that fpecles of grey granite
olltd
4f Dalmeny. ^yp
tiXied moor-Jfom *, of which the many Excellent roads in tfaif pari(h are made. There may be mentioned a finguiar bafal* tic rock upon the fouth fide of Dundas-hill» 250 yards long^ and generally about 60 or 70 feet high^ This- rock is aknoft perpendicular in its front, and eonfifts 6f light Uueiih granitCf of a yeiy clofe and fite texture : The mafles are in an irre* gular columnar ftate, feparated by channels or furrows ; bus many well defined reguhr prifms are to be obitpved^ At tho fbot of the fteep^y and almofir perpendicular bank on which this reck lie^ is a morafs of about 9 acres of fliell raarL Bue what is chtcfiy remarkable and valuable as a mineral in this pari(h| is the vaft bed of free-fione upon the iea^coft^ A quarry of this excellent fioae has been wrought ta the cx^ tent of }• acres*, a little to the weft of the borough of QueenC* ferry \ aad,> befides fupplying the demands of the neighbour- hood, great ^antities of it were privately exported for builds log the fortifications and quay of Dunkirk. All the fine ftooe carvings of Earl Fife's elegant houfe at B^nff were exe-' cutcd here upon the fpot, and fent thither in cafes by fea. A large bapttfmal font, 5 feet in diameter,, intended for the Con^ riocDt, with its bottom uppermoft, and covered with Tea- weed and {hell fifh, lies oppodte M> this quarry a good way within' riie ica mark > and which the antiqii^^ n^ight fancy to bd one of the remains of fome Poppifh church once ftanding there, that had been overwhelmed by the fea. Grindftones are nnanufafhired at this quarry, and. annually exported to the countries on the Baltic. It is iaid, that here, and clfewhere on the coaft in this parifh> there is fuch a quantity of firee- fione^ that fcarccly any demand could exhauft it^
Antiquities^
^ iVl&in-ftone, or porphyry (called toad-fionc, rag-done, &c* in England) differs from moor* (lone in this, that the former coataias iron» and aUb fome lime.
#3S Statf/lical Jcamt
Afitiqutiui.-^j. About z mile to the weft of Barnboogk Caftlc, on the top of a high lea bank, is aa ancient cairn, called bj the coantrjr people the Ear/ Cainifi of a circulac ihape. 500 feet in circumference, and 24 high in the middlei fatfed perhaps for the purpofe of a fepolcbral monomeat. The ftones are all fmalli cpnHftiog of gnmite, whin-ftooe, <|uartZt iron-ftone, and lime-ftone» and appear to have been cirried to it bj the hand from the neighbooring grounds. A portion onlj of the cairn now remains $ the greater part of the ftones having been taken away. 2. In thit part of the parilh which lies at the weft end of Queensferry, dofe bf the Ihore, are the remains of a monaftery, founded about the 1330 by one of the lairds of Dundas, for Carmelite Frian- The church, a fmall building in a very plain Gothic fiyle, is fiiU nearly entire. 3. Near a mile to the weft of this, upon a high Tea bank, where a £arm houfe now ftands, there were, about 40 or 50 years fince, conGJerable ruins of probably an old Kom2n /peculatorium^ conGfting of a large carved window, a fquare pillar^ and a very confiderable quantity of hevn ftones, which, it is faid, were carried to Dunkirk. There were found feveral filver medals of Marcus Antoninus, with a Vtflorj on the reverfe } alfo, the carved handle of a copper vefleli and the bottom of an earthen urnj with the word d» jeHi s the reft obliterated.
Antiitit Families^ and Emimnt Mm. — i. The family of Dundas of Dundas, from which that of Amifton, and othen, are derived, has been traced by genealogifts * back to the Saxon Kings of England ; and that £imily has uninterrupted- ly enjoyed a great eftate in this parifli, in the male line, for near 700 years. The prefent proprietor is the 24th in defcent from
the
f Sir James Dalrym^Ie, Crawford, Niibet, fte.
tfDabnenyi f3y
the £t4 laird of Dondas ; and has in Us poflcffiou one of the- oldeft original writings in Scotland, being a charter granted, aboux the year 1 1 20. The (lately caftle of the family, erec- ted on a loafty fituation, (till remains, but is uninhabited. 2. The Craigies of Craigy were another antient and confiderabl^ family ; one of them being a witneft to Dandas-s charter juft mentioned. After fome generations they terminated in an beirefs, who, in 13871 married Si^ John Stewart, who thence topk the titjie of Craigtehall, wh^e their pofterity continued till about 1640, when the eftate of Craigiehall was ibid j but the fiunily ftill continue refpeflable in the pariih. 3. Th^ Mowbrays of Bambougle have lil^et^ife a claim to high anti* quity; the name of Philip Mowbray of Bambougle occurring about I %(^o. In that pame (of which were feveral Dukes of Norfolk, Earls of Nottingham, &c.) the eftate remained till the 1 620, when Sir Robert Mowbray fold it \ whofe repre* fentative, it is faid, is ftill in the pariih, b(|t reduced to th^ condition pf a common (crvant. BarnboQgle Caille ftill re* mains, aod is inhabited, but is no ways remarkable, except for its fancifu^ iituation within the Tea n^arlp, and for its embra- sures prcfcnting a ftrong front to the fca. 4. The late Wil- liam Wilkie, D. D. bom in the village of Echlin In this pariih, Oft. 5* 1721, and educatecf at tl^e fchool of Dalmcny. After revolving the hiftory of antient ^imilles hi this and other pa- riflies, many of whicl^ have £illen into decline, and may per- haps pafs into oblivion, it may be obferved, that the memo- ry of a man of genius 9nd learning is lefs fubjeft to periih. The Epigo9jpad will probably be always admired* Without fpeaking of the happy choice of the fubje^t, and of the meri( pf many of the charaAers In that Epic poem, it may be enough to fay, that the epifode of Hercules, taken by itielf» IS fttffieient to entitle the poet to perpetual fiune. Dr Wtlkie Fas diftinguUhed for 9 fingular compai^ of knowledge, and
cUcfl/
€A9
Statykcd Acemd
lAit&f tot an originality of genius. In his yooth he c«ilt^ stated a fmall farm, and ftruggled long and hard with penu« fy. He was afterwards minifter of Ratho ; and laftly profet fat of Natural Phnofophy in the Univerfitj of St Andrews^ where he died in 17731 ^ ^''^ 5^' 7^^^
Ptputaiion Taik for 1790*
|
Souls |
- |
907 |
I family confifts of |
^9 |
|
|
Families |
m |
218 |
2 - - of |
2a |
|
|
Males |
« |
429 |
|||
|
Pemales |
•■ |
. |
478 |
refide |
3 |
|
Aged below |
10 |
- |
304 |
Lefier heriton |
3 |
|
^— hetween 10 and 20 |
172 |
17 |
|||
|
• ^Q |
and 50 and 70 |
347 *4i 43 1 |
. Clergy ^EftafaUOied) <3erg7(S«ceden) Schoolmaften « |
I |
|
|
J |
|||||
|
-50 > 0tf\ |
2 |
||||
|
34 &milie$ coniift of |
Attornies |
J |
|||
|
40 |
• |
of |
■2 |
Surgeons |
. * |
|
3tS . |
m |
of |
3 |
^^ |
|
|
30 |
* |
of |
4 |
Small ditto |
to |
|
34 - |
• |
of |
5 |
Bakers |
2 |
|
11 |
. |
of |
6 |
Millers ♦ - • |
1 |
|
10 |
«• |
of |
7 |
I |
|
|
MO |
- |
of |
8 |
Smiths |
4 |
|
a |
- |
of |
9 |
Carpenters, fcc. |
to |
|
4 |
m |
6! |
ao |
Mafons |
9 |
|
^ |
• |
of |
II |
Taylors |
I |
|
I |
- |
of |
14 |
Shoemakers |
5 |
|
I |
- |
of |
«7 |
Weavers |
^ |
Gardencxa
* There is a flonr mill, a barley mili« and an oat-meal mill f at Cramond-bridge, at the lad of which abopt ippo ^is o^ ;<{ati are annually inille^ * , • « >
gf t>almewf.
(?4l
|
Gardeners - |
16 |
Shepherd! s |
5 |
|
Slaters and glaziers |
I |
Houfe (ervants |
78 |
|
Overieers |
i |
Miller ferttnts «* |
4 |
|
MidwiVe^ |
I |
Seamen |
IZ |
|
CarterS| &c« • |
7 |
Widows |
5« |
|
Horre-letters |
1 |
Widowers |
17 |
|
Ino-keepers |
I |
Seceders |
14a |
|
Small ale-hoafes |
t |
Re&ding in 6 large ^U |
|
|
Chaife drivers |
6 |
lagcs |
530 |
|
Plowmen^ &c. |
^6 |
Refidiiig in 5 foiaU viU |
|
|
Day-labourers^ &c; |
39 |
lages |
123 |
|
Work horfcs |
150 |
Bakeweirs breed |
400 |
|
l^f ak cows |
130 |
Dorfetihire flieep |
10 |
|
Black cattle, yoong |
Ab/ffinian ditto ^ |
St |
|
|
cows and horfes |
800 |
Deer |
30 |
|
Scotch fheep |
ao2o |
In the pari(h are 2 coaches, 3 four-wheeled chaifcs, and 3 ditto belonging to the Inn at Newhalls. There are more ploughs, carts, and other implements of huibandry, than are uTually employed by the farmers.
* Thefe are part of a lattie flock brouffht here by George Dnndas, Efqj of Dundas, Captain of the Winterton £a(l India* man ; the reft died on their paflage home. Their fleece is hairy like goau$ but next the Ikin, is a rcry fine foft down.
Vol. I.
Hh
NUM-
94^ Stati/iical AcCmtd
NUMBER XXIX.
PARISH OF SORBIE;
By tbi liev. Dr Isaac Davidson.
Situation f Sot/, isfc.
r I i H E parilh of Sorbic, in tKc (hire and prefbytery of JL Wigton, and fynod of Galloway, is bounded by Wig* ton Bay and Solway Firth on the caft i by the parilh ef Wbitehorn on the fouth ) by the fame parifli and that ef Glaflerton on the weft i and by Kirkinner on the north.
From the fouth, where it joins Whitehonii I't ftretchcs £x miles northward tp Kirkinner ; and from the eafl, on Wigtoa Bay, it runs as far to the Weft, where it unites with the priih of Glaflcrton. This is its broadeft part. From Garlteftown ^Bay on the ea(T, to tlie neareft part of Whitehorn parifli due weft, is about a mile and a furlong. TEis is hs nakroweft part.
Veffels fail from Garlieftown to Whitehaven Jh four hours, to the Iflc of Man in three, to Liverpool in twenty* four, to Dublin in twenty-four^ and to Port Greenock in thirty.
The^face of the country itbctutiful, being variegated with little hills and fertile plains. In their feafons, the nchcft herbage, and the moft luxuriant crops of grain, every where appear. Through the whole year, there is a dclightrui ver- dure, IclTcned, but fcldom altogether deftroyed^ cither bj
fi-cU
vf Sorbie* 34^
fi^ft or fnow. la the year 17759 when the who]e iijand of Qreat Briuin was almoft buried in fnow, this parilh prefent. cd the eye with its fayourite colour ; and green fields and happy flocks were pleafing objedts to the trayeUcr, and enriched their owners. Ihe foil is not deep, butexceeaing fine, yield- ing an increafe equal to Hertfbrdfhine.
To the care and fuperlor (kill of the prefent E^rl of Gal- 4oway, the fertility and beauty of this pariih are in a great sneafure to be a(cribed. His Lordfhip }ives in it fcveral months ev^ry year, and has fhewn much attention to agricuU fuTC, breeding of cattle, and planting. When he came to the {xjflcffion of his anticnt and extcnfive family eRate in the year 1765, this parifli, like the country in genera!, was almost in a ftate of nature. There were few inclofures; the roads were narrow and unformed ; and fcarce a tree appeared to pleafe the eye. Things are now totally different. The fields are all inclofed, and well cultivated. The roads are of the proper breadth, well formed, and made of good materials ;* axid plantations every where prefent themfelves.
Galloway Hogfe was built by the late Earl, and forms part of a landfcape truly beautiful and grand. Garliefiown Bay is on the aortb ; and Rigg» or Hunter's Bay, is on the fouth of it. From its windows are ieen the richeli fields ; an indent- €d coaft, adorned with growing improvements ; a cluftcr ot iiles, and.tli£ lofty mountains of Cumberland and Man, appear- ing at a proper didance. The prefent Earl has made great additions and improvements. The principal rooms are fpa- «ious, and the library i^ iltored with uiany thouf^nd valuable <volumet.
Lord Galloway's managetrent of his eftate deferves parti- cular notice. The lands about Galloway Houfe are well ^divided, and the fields are completely fheltered by the plan- 44tM)pS| jrhifh produces many advantages. The grafs fprln^
early J
^44 Btatifiieal Account
early \ and the cattle, defended from the ftorm, feed at their cafe. The belts of planting, being carried along the ridges of the hills, improve the appearance of the coantry, and gire warmth to all below them.
The Earl has ftudied the nature of foreft trees, and the different ways of raifing and treating them, with much atten- tion. Under his care trees grow on every expofure % and c« very fpecies of them thrive as well about Galloway Houfe as in any part of England* The pine*a(ler, or maritime pinei is of fo much ufe here, and indeed in fuch places as are much expofed, as to deferve the greateft attention. It is hardy, and makes vigorous (hoots, almoft on the fea-beach \ and is an excellent defence for other trees. The proper me- thod of raifing this moil uiefiil plant in the nurfery infures its fuccefs. The feed ought to be fown on rich ground, ia the month of March. Sixteen months afterward, the plant ought to be taicen up in moift weather | Its tap root (faorten- ed, ard the young tree planted in a rich ground well pulve- rized. It muft be watered for ten or twelve days, till die new roots begin to ftrike. Thus tranfplanted, it muft ftand for eighteen or twenty. four months, and then planted oot on any expofure. Tranfplanting and cutting them, a| above defer ibed, make them put out many lateral roots, which find food for the plant, and give it firmnefsinits flation. Whereas, if it is {permitted to remain two years in the feed-bed, it puts down only one root, and is incapable of refifting the ftorm. Gentlemen, therefore, who plant near the Oiore, ought to give the maritime pine as much foil as poflible, and raife a defence for it in its infant fiate. lu fiiturs fervice to them, and their pofterity, will amply rqnj ^eir care and expence.
The Scotch fir is of great ule when planted on the Iboth- weft of other treeS| by de^nding thpm from oox great'
' ^ oft
fA Vid moft frequent ftonm. While fpeakiog of firs, it majr be proper to obierve, tlut refioous plants have t^ro feafons» of growth I the &r& ia the fpring, and the Tecona after the early harveft rains. Early planting is confequently advanta«. geou9» All trees planted here before new year's day thriv^ beft, excepting fuch as are intended for wet ground, which oaght to be {da&ted in the month of March* The oak, aih| beech, alder, firs % &c, thrive here, and are equal to any iz^ ^heir quality. Lord Galloway has found that pruning makeai them grow with great vigour. By eiporimenl it aj^pears, that* plants which were pruned, advanced, at the rate of four year» in fix, before thofe which were not pruned. This treatment heft fuits trees which have been taken from the nurfcry, an4 Ihottld be attended to in the winter of the (econd or third year after they have been planted out* In the plantations of a circomlierence of fiscteen miles, trees of every kind grofv with the greate(l luxuriance ; and fome of them have rifen^ in a few years, to the height of fifty feet. His Lordlhip's de- figns are great i and he is accomplKhIng them, by planting at the rate of 200,000 trees every year.
LaleSf tsfc. — ^Therc Is a very fine fi*cfh water lake on the nonh*weft border of the pariih, above three miles in circum- ference, well ftored with perch, pike, and eels. It is called Dowalton Lake, becaufe a great family of the name of M«Dowal were proprietors of it, and their place of refidence or town was near it. The lake furrounds the remains of ^^ honfe and garden. The houfe, it is fuppofed, was fortified^, and afforded a fafe retreat to its Lords, when feudal and al- lodial rights produced difcord and war. The fi(h in it arc never caught for fale. From this lake a rivulet flows, through
a rich valley, to Garlieftown Bay.
Sea
* The lariz, or larch, is found here to be of quick growth. Its timber is cxcellent| lafts long under water, and refills th^ ijTorxn.
i4j^ Statiftical Acemnl
Sea Cea/l, Fi/B, Ttdist isTc^Thtre arc npvrafds of tm^vt miles of fea-coaft, including the bays. The fliore is rathev bold to the fouthi but becooies flat at Rigg or Hunter^s Bay % and continues fo to Garlieftown, where it rifes again. On the whole, it may be called a rocky (hore, though in Garliei^ town Bay there is a deep, fok day, on which vcflels lie in the greateft fafetyi and have the bcft anchorage. Floundersy ibles, ikate, cod, crabs, lobfters, oyi^ers, with many other kinds of fifli, abound on the coaft. Herrings were found fomc time ago in vaft ihoals \ apd there is reafpn to believe that they ftill vifit this (hore. Some years ago they were caught with great fuccefs $ and it appears from a minute of kirk- feffion, dated September i. 1700, that^ the inhabitants were ib anxious In the purfiiit of them as to be difficultly reftrain- ed from fiihing on the Lord's day. The people are' now fully engaged in agriculture : Fiihing is nearly neglo&ed, and * the fiihing boats on the coaft are very few. The iea»animals are the fame with thofe on the eaftern coaft of Great Briuin. The fea-wceds are of the common kind. A few tons ai kelp are made from them every two or three years. Some are fpread upon the land, without any preparation i but the beft farmers ufe them in compofts, which produce a quick ^nJ ftrong fermentation. The courfes of the tides are as follow. The tide flows ftraight out from Wigton Bay fix hours, and takes the fame time to return. At Garlieftown, the tide flows five hours from the fouth, and ebbs fevcn. It is high water at Garlieftown at a quartier of an hour before eleven o'clock A. M. at the change and full of the moon. There are no light houfes, beacons, or artificial land- marks, on the coaft} but there are feveral places where light- ^oufes n^ight be ereAed with great advantage to navigation.
The head-lands are Crugleton and Eagcrneis } and the
principal
efSorbie. ' Ij^f
fM^ocipal bays are thofe of Garlieftown ; Rigg, now called Hancet's Baji in compiliinent to Captain Hunter of the na^ j ^ry, who came to an anchor in It, with Lord Gaflies on board ; mid Ports Allan^ Whaple, and Innerwell. Many other fmaU- er bays indent the coaft in a moft beautiful manner, where veflebi loaded ii^ith lime and fea-fliells, deliver their cargoes.
Garlieflown is i^ell fituated for a harbour, not onl^ to ierve its own neighbourhood, but all the trade of the weft of £ngland^ from Liverpool to Carliilc \ that of the weft of Scotland to Wales and England ; and that of Irehnd and Man. But no traide would profit fo much by it as that large and important one from Whitehaven to Dublin. This great trade^ to which one tide is of vaft confcquence, is confi- derably retarded by the fouth,- (outh-weft, and weft winds^ which are more frequent there than any other. Were there a good harbour at Garlieftown, the fhips bound from White- haven to Dublin might come over to it with fouth and foutb- wcft windsj and deliver their cargoes much fooner than xhtj do at prefent. To this defirable end the tides are particu- larly favourable.
Cattle^ Woolt (s'r.— The black cattle of this pari(h and neighbourhood are of the beft quality. Lord Galloway thinks he has improved the fize and fhape of the original breed, by introducing Weftmorland bulls. His Lordfliip gave neW life to a fpirit of emulation among the breeders, by a pre* niium of a very handlome fiiver cup, which he beftowed eve-^ ry year on the perfon who produced the bcft four year old ex or cow. With rcfpeft to G;illoway cattle in gene- ral, thofe in the muirs differ only from thoTe in the improved part of the country in their fizc Th:: laft defcriptiun of cat- tle weigh when fat 5O1 the firft aUout 49 ftone; Moft of the
. cattle
i^49 Statiflkal AcmM
tattle are without horns, and are prefeifcd to fnch as ha^ them I becaufe they are fuppofed to be deeper in the fiore ^uartefi are in lefs danger of being gored by each other, and are more compaft in their (hape* The prevailing colours are black and brown \ white is not efteemed. Thej are even in the back, fquare and deep in the rib, and ihort in the leg i ^nd fo healthy, that they fatten foonet than any other. They coil in the country, when
One year old - - - L. a lo e
Two years old - - - 5 lo o
Three ditto - - • - 700
Four ditto - - - - 880
They ufed to be fent to the Englifh markets when four ye^ old; but now too many of them are fent Iboner. This county fends many thoufandt to thefe markets ^ery year \ and this pari(h breeds annually between five and fix hundred. They arc about twenty-eight days in travcUiog to the Norfolk markets, and coft about 18 s. per head driving ^d feeding. When they have finiflied theirjoumey, it is fuppofed they have loft, through fatigue, above one-eight of their weight. To this add the lofles occafioned by difeafo, by frights, heats, bad water, lameneis, and other caufes, Sudi lofles afieA not only the proprietbrs of droves, but alfo the ]>ublic, by advancing the price of beef. Here the unfriendly operation of the falt-laws appears in a very clear light. Were it not for them, the vaft herds of cattle produced by this truly fertile country might be flaaghtered and falted at home for the ufe of his Majefty's navy, trading veflels, &c«
If a fpirit of manufa£hire were once excited, wool, of which the high part of this country produces a vaft quantity j flax, which might be cultivated with great advantage on the deepeft of the lands y and other raw materials^ might be
wrought
g/" Sorbie. 449
wrought «p into articles of commerce ; and a Leeds or an Halifax would perhaps grow out of one of our finall villau^cs.
Some of the moft antient breed of Galloway horfes are a- mong the mountains and lefs improved parts of the country. They are laid to be very hardy, ealiiy maintained, and high fpirtted. This breed is well attended to in Cumberland, where it is much improved by crofles with Englifli horfes. A larger breed is preferred here, as being more fit for the pur- pofes of draught and agriculture. Through the attention of tlie noblemen and gentry, this neighbourhood has a breed of horfes fit for the fadJte, and carriages of every kind. The colours of horfes are various ; but the dark bay, with black legs and feet, is preferred. Their fhapc is generally good. They were originally galloways, and faid to have Iprung from a tSpanilh breed, which caine afhore on this cpaQ when one of the vefiels of the Armada was wrecked upon itj after failing round by the Pentland Firth.
Population, '^Tht population here has been increaCng for fonie time paft.
The prefcnt amount is . • - 1 069
Of thefe there are males - - • 515
Females - - - - - 554
In the village of Garlieflown there are about - 450
In ditto of Sorbie about . . • 80
The average of births - « • • 23
Ditto of deaths - - - • 14
Ditto of marriages - - « - 8
Under ten years old • - - - 276
From loto {o r • • - 586
J/om 50 to 80 - - • - 180
^rom 80 to 100 • • « • 27
you !• I i There
S5^ Statiftical Accwnl
There are farmers • - • • 4j
Corn milk • • ' • • * 3
Qoth milU * • m m . - 2
Mechanics • •» • « * ^J
Apprentices -* - - • • 11
Seamen • * ^ • * 30
Foreigners • • • • • i
Ferfons born in England *• • - 24
Perfons born in Wales * •• • i Nobilityi one family.
Clergy - • - . . 3 One of the Church of England^ the other two of the
Eftablifhed Church.
Epifcopalians • « • « - 24
Secedersy Ante^ Burghers « • • 60
Catholics . - . - - 4
Cameronians ' - • • - - a
Merchants * - - - - 11 In the year 1774 feveral Bimilies emigrated to America.
JlgrtculiurCi isfc, — The general rule of farming b, to have one-third of the land in tillages and two-thirds in pafiare. Oats, barley, and peafc, are the grains generally raifed. Po- tatoes have been long cultivated with much fuccefs. "Wheat has not fucceeded, unlefs with a few, though the foil b very like that o* Hertfordfhire. The parifh does not only fupplf itfelfii but exports a large quantitv of grain and potatoes to London, Liverpool, Dublin, the Ide of Man, and the Wed 1 of Scotland. Every field having produced its number of crops, is laid down with red, white, or yellow clovers, rib, or rye grafs feeds. The feed time commences in the beginniog of March, and the harveft about the middle of Auguft.
There
There li matle in the partlh. Lime, from Cumberhnd, is delivered in the different bays at i s. the Carlifle bufhcl, which is equal to three Winchefter bufliels; and Tea ihells at 1 s. 6 d. per ton. Sea (hells are the beft of all manures ; and in this neighbourhood they are inexhauftible. Every tide, accompanied by an eaft wind, brings in great quantities of this moft valuable commodity. With thefe different manures, rich crops and fine cattle arc raifcd ; but, if the prcfcnt treat- ment of a moft generous foil be perfiftcd in, there is reafon to believe that it will be much injured. Three, and fome- tioies four crops of oats, or barley, fucceed each other ; and with the laft of thefe crops grafs feeds are fown, which are cat for bay in the following year. Thus four, and ibme« times five, white crops follow one another ( for a crop ot rye grafs is as fevere as a crop of oats, and therefore may be called a white crop.
When the land is laid down with grafs feeds, it common* ly lies fix years. Fallowing, in this part of the oountry, is little pra£tifed $ and green crops are but fmall, an^l few in number; the fields, therefore, become very dirty. A partial fallow in the fpring, and early in May, is of great ule in cleaning the fields. It is often followed by a rich crop of light grain -, and is particularly ferviceable in preparing land for grafs. This is almoft the only fallow ufed here.
Carts are ufed in carrying merchants goods, manures, grain, &c* &c. The fmall plough is ufed, fometimes with, and fometimes without a chain ; but for coarfc flroog land, a large plough is thought neceiTary.
Rent. — ^The average rent of land docs not exceed los. per xre: Rent of houfes from L. x to L. 15. Leafes are com- monly
A $2 Stati/iical Amount
monly granted for 19 years. Lord Galloway has two upon his citate here of 2 1 years, and the life of the farmers* The iize of farms is from 300 to 30 acres.
Church and Slipend.-^Vht church was completely repair- ed about 30 years 9go. The manfe was rebuilt in 1778. The iiipcnci is L. 75 per annum ihc glebe, including grais and arable land^ garden, and fite of the manfe and office- houles, does not amount to 10 acrv's. Of theie there are 4 acres of the word land in the neighbourhood. They were never thought worth ploughing till the prefcnt incumbent re- ceived them. There are 7 heritors. 1 he Earl of Gailoway is the only reddent one. Dr Davidfon, and £Uiot William David ion, his only fon» are the prefent minifters. The far- mtr was admitted November 1775 i the latter was ordained, September 3. 17899 afliilant and fucceflbr. The King is pa- tron.
Poor. — ^There arc 13 poor on the lift. About L. 27 Ster- lings^/* annum is diftributed among themy chiefly raifed by collcdtionb iii the church. The legal manner of treating pau- pers was adopted here anno 177^9 that is, they were obliged to uie badges, and to.conline themlelves within the bounds of the pariih. ihis dittinflion was very difagreeable to them; and it was found that (bmc of thciii had hoarded up money* The prefent incumbent has never had an improper applica- tion irom a native for admiiCon to the public charity.
Price of Labour^ Fue/y isfc — Common day labourers arc paid,, one quarter of the year, 10 d. per day; for the other three quarters 1 s. ; carpenters i s. 4 d. ; mafons is. 6 d. ; taylors 6 d. or 8 d.
A
of Sorbin 2g^
A farnl fervant, when married, has a houfe and garden, a cow's grafs and fodder, ground to raife flax and potatoes for his family, his peats led home, and oats out of the barn, to the v.due ©f L 8 Sterling. Labourers who threfh the grain receive the 25th p»*rt lor their labour. They are employed in otlicr work wiien the threfliing is over, for which tiiey receive an houie and g*irden, grals and fodiier for a cow, ground tor potaiocs, and flax and oats out of the barn, to the value of L. 2 Sterling.
Both thcfe defcriptions of labourers maintain their families comfortably, educate ihcir cml ircn in reading, writing, and arithmetic, and fometimcs pui them apprentices to nicciianics.
Domeflic fervants arc hired at and under the following rates, very feldom above them : Men at L. 7 Sterling j wo- men L. 3,
Peat is the fuel commonly ufcd ; they are fold at 3 d. the hor^c load at the mofles; and, when carried home to the con- funier, they are generally double that fum. This kind of futrl IS commonly procured in the parlfh of Kirkinner. Coals arc brought from Cumberland at 19 s. the ton. The fcarci- ty of fuel is the greateli di fad vantage under which this neigh- bourhood labours, and yet it is within four hours failing fro. 11 the Ln^alh coal mines, fhe tax opon that neceflary arii^'lr, when water borne, is the caufc of its high price; and here that tax «s a real grievance. Its bad effects, and un- friendly influence on manufaftures, 'are evident. A fmall duty, railed at the pit, would aftcdl every confumer equally, an«.l be more productive. 0::r Icgiflators will furcly cmbricc fomc fit opportunity of rcvifing the coal and fait laws : And, k is humbly hoped that the honourable member to whom
thri
fi54 Statijilcal Account
this imperreft account of their unfriendlr operation is ad- drefled, will confider fuch a revifal as conneftcd with the in- terefls of commerce^ governuientj and humanity.
MifaUancous Obfervatlons^ AnttquitieSy l^c. — ^Thcrc arc two vilbg<-s in this parifh, Garlicftown, founded by the prefent Ear] of Galloway when Lord Garlics. It is in the form of a crefcent. It contains about 450 inhabitants. The other viU lage is Sorbie, alfo begun through the encouragement of the preleiit Earl, in which there are about 80 inhabitants.
A tumulus, was opened in part fay fome road makers, and human bones were found in it. Near it, and clofe by Hunters, or Rigg Bay, were alfo found human boncs^ inclo- fcd by three ftoiics ; and upon one of the Aones there fcem- cd to be an infcription. There are the remains of two caf- tleSf Crugleton and Eagerncfs. An unornamented arch, and fome other parts of the ruins of Crugleton, fliew it to have been a place of great fizc and ftrength. The foflc remains very plain. This caftlc is faid to have been the dwelling of the very ancient and wealthy family of the Vaufes, now Van- fes, of Barnbarrow. Crugleton is now the property of Sir Stair Agnew of Lochnaw, Bart. Eagernefs is altogether de- ftroyed. The terminations of the names of thcfc caftles fhew them to be of Saxon original. Nefs^ in that language, fignl- fies an headland, or promontory ; ion is derived from a word in rhe fame language which Cgnifies an hedge or wall ; and th^t word, again, fcems to be from one fignifying a hill. Ea- gerncfs is a headland : Crugleton is upon a hill ; and feems to fignify a town upon a hill, furroundcd by a wall. There is a rope w^lk at Ciar'n-r^nwn, well conduced \ and ten coaft- ing vcfTeis belong to that port»
AXL
gf Sorbie0 355
An Ugh and independent fpirit plainly marks the people of this parifh. *To receive charity from the panfh funds is cfieemcd difgracefult and therefore frugality prevails Their jnduftry is perievering, and fecures their contentment and virtue. There has not been one criminal profccution carried on againft any of them within the memory of any perlcn in the parifh.
Two large vcflcls were ftranded on this coaft a few years ago; every poflibie civility was fhewn to the pcopL' j and their vcflels were got off again without being damaged.
The ftatute labour is commuted ; and, by act of parliament, the roads are made, and kept in repair, by a pound rate. In the year 1782, a plentiful harveft was reaped in perfc^ion. There were no complaints among the poor ; nor was there any meal fold under the market price. The landholders and farmers had. a friendly intervievr, and refolved to retain in the country as much grain as was fufficient to fupply the inhabi- tants.
The nianners, drefs, and ft) le of living of the people, are all much changed within the lad 50 years. Before that pe* riod, they knew little of the happy effects of induftry, and, therefore, lived upon meal, milk, and vegetables. Their drefs and houfcs were very mean. They knew not the va- lue of the inexhaudible (lores of natural manures, marie, and fea (hells, which were at hand, trufting to the folding of their herds for manuring their lands. Now every thing bear^ a new afpcft, and the people (hare the luxuries of their fta* tion with their more fouthern neighbours, which may be ac- counted for as follows :
Improve-
n^S Statijlical Account
Improvements in agriculture introduced fuch wealth as is TOoft permanent in its nature, becaule the valtic oi lur ; .nd is thereby increafcd. A fur^;lus of grain led the l.i i^ii- tants to diftant markets, and brought (Grangers into ilie country. Ihey learned the manners of their neigbL>our9y and became hke them ; (o th^t dow. other accomphfli* nients are added to that bold, acuvc, and warlike fpirit, by which the Gallov dians were formerly dKVmguifhed, and which prorurtd for thrm the pri\ ilq'c of appearing in the Tan of t!ic Scot'fh a'-mrs Cacijr*b dcrlcription of the Bcl-» gae appl '-s to the n m anfifnt times. •* Horum omnium for- «' tifli 111 hint lJ'.lLi«if ; proprcrra quod a culiu, atque humani- " tate provinriac loni.ilTii.e ibliiiit. mini itqtic aJ eos mer« « catorcb f<epc com n .nt, a^<,Mr ea, qjae ad tiFeminandos " animos pertinent, iiiiportuU' j" Comments
The inhabitants trade in their own ▼eflcU to London and Port GUfgow, and every port b-fwcen thefe, as their intcr- c'l equire. Commerce naturnliy leads to luxury; and luxu- ry prevailing, enervate- OMt fpirit wh»rh gave it cxjflencc, end, in the end, ruins trade, and activity in every uicful line.
Good ronds arc of high importance 'n Improving a coun- try. Wherever they are made, all obftarle^ are furmountcd, and the improvement of every field, capable of it, follows as a certain confcqticnce. The milhary road from Dumfries to Portpatrick has produced many good effefts in this ref^Wl. By mea' s of it, mountains, formerly appearing impervious, are now no longer formidable. The ftranger palTes whh cafe, to give and receive information ; and articles of trade arc tranfported with facility. The road making from this coun«
tr7
gf Sorbie. \ 25jr
itrj to Edinborghf by ^ nearer way thaa Duinfries» and that into Air(bire through the mountains, muft be followed by the beft confequences.
Befides the great roads^ crofs roads are naade, or makingi every where through the cpuntry.
There are three fchools in the parifh ; and all the young people are educated according to their ftations. There is one inn in Garlleftown, equal to any in this part of Scotland, and five ale, or rather whiflcy-hpufes. In the village of Sorbie there is one houfe in which foreign Spirits are fold, and another in which there is nothing but whi&y. There is very little ale fpid or brewed in this pari(h of late years* The cffcfts of public houfes are moft injurious to the morals and induftry of the people, efpecially when. little elfe than whiiky b fold in them. A few pence pro* cures as much of this bafe fpirit as is fufficient to make any man mad. The landlords of fuperfluous petty public houles, generally wafte their time, and ruin their conditu- tipns, by acting like decojrs on their filly half refolved neighbours. In this ihamelefs buCnefs they are flattered with the notion of promoting trade. This evil does not prevail fo much here as in fome other lefs induArious neigh- bonrhoods.
New houfes built in Garlieftown withi^ the laft ten years,
34 Ditto in Sorbie • • - ' • - 9
In other parts of the parifh « ^ - 26
59 «roL. I. K k Befides
358 Stati/iieal Axtntnt
Befides the above, feveral old farm hoafes have been takes down, and good new ones crcftcd on their Ctcs. There have been about 12 old houfes taken down; and there is not one finiflied houfc uninhabited. Wherever cottagers are "^jtmployed in agriculture, population increafes. Their dul- dren are healthy, happy, and numerous.
KUM.
g/* Kiiiearn. ^59
iJ U M B E k XXX. ]?ARISH OF KILTEARN.
6j the Rtu. Mr HaIhrY Robertson.
Origin of the Name.
IlT ILTEARN derives its name from two Gaelic wm'ds, viz. "^^ viz. Keil Tighearti^ fignifyiog the burying place of .the iaird or great man ; but there is no record or tradition from which w^ can learn what great man was firft buried here» The Monro's of FowliS| the chief family in the pariih, were buried^ for feveral centuries, at ChanoQryi and only begaa to bury at Kiltearn anno 1588.
It^ well known that many other places in Scotland owe thdr names to a fimilar cauie, viz. their giving burial to Tome iaint or eminent perlbn \ and the names of thefe places begia with Kil^ being a contraAion of Eeil^ as Kilmuir, i. e. Mary'a burial place ( Killing Kilbride, Kilfyth^ Klildonan, &c.
Situation^ Extent^ and Sufface.'^TKii parifh Is iituated about the middle of the county of Ro(s, in the diftriA called Fcrin« dbilald, of which we fhall fpeak afterwards. It belongs to the Prelbytery of Dingwall^ and fynod of Rofs \ and ftretcfa^ es along the north flde of the bay that rnns up from Cromar- ty to Dingwall^ being about fix, miles long from Novar-
Inn
^66 StatiJiUal Account
Inn at the eafti to a rivulet called Aultndait» near TuBocby at the weft. The breadth is various. That part of the pa- ri(h which is well cukivated b about two miles broad, iran the fea-fliore on the fouth, to the foot of thehillj gi^ond fo the north. But there are feveral gra2ings and Htgfaiattd pot* feflions at the diftance of five, ten, and even ifteen miles, from the fea. It is bounded by the pahfh of Alaes on the eaft, hj CoDtin and Lochbroom on the north, by Dingwall and Fodderrj cm the weft, and by Cromarty Bay on the (bath. The Highland diftridt of this parifh is, for the mOft part, wild and uncultivated, confifting of high moimtains, (cpanHb- ed from cich other by rapid rivulets, and exteniive tra£b of moors and moflTy ground. In this diftridV, there is a conft- derabh ftrah *, called the Clare, pleafantly fituated in an ii^ dined plain, upon the banks of the river Skiack, containing about 200 acres arable land and meadow ground. And, on Che oppoflte fide of the river, there is alfo a plain of about 30 acres, called Bognahavin. Though the ho^fes in this remote diftriA arc in general very mean, yet there is one on each fide of the river built in a ftyle fuperior to the generality of farm-houfcs in the parifh, being the goat-whey quarters of the minifter of Kiltearn, and of Mr Muxiro fheriff-fuUlitute of Lewis* in either of thefe houfes, the weary traveller, dt the fatigued fportlman, can find comfortable accommoda- tions. This circumftance is only taken noticeof, becaufe it is a perfeA contraft to the milerable huts, called Shealings, which the hardy Highlanders ir.habit while they tend their flocks suid herds, and live on the produce of the dairy*
. If wc turn our eyes to the bw diftri£k of the parifh, which Inclines gently from the foot of the hiUs towards the lea, a
very
^ .ft. e. valley, or level land between hlUs.
xttj ridi and beautiful prolpea; opem to our tIcvi^ % tub WcH cultivated fields, indofed either with flone-waAs, or whh thorn hedges «ad belts of planting. In ffiort, every cra^ velfer is ftruck with the natural beautj of the countryt Wfaiick of late years has been fe much improved by art, as muft give a fiivouraUe idea of the g6od tafte and opulehoe of t\t pro- prietors. The gentlemen's houfes are lai^ge and commodi- ous, and their' gardens well ftored with fruit-trees.' About eighty years ago, there were few foreft trees to be feea here^ except fome 'natural alders and willows on the baoks oif rivers, and a few aihes, elms, and fimes, furrounding gentle* men's gardens ; but now there are extenfive plantations of pines or firs,- feveral miles in circumference, befldes many fhoufands of oaks, and other hard Wood of every kind that is' to bt met with in North Britain. The fcvdiFal proprietors feem to vie with each other in raifing the fineft plantationH of timber. Suth in^provements are defirable on a ddubU account t They adorn the £ice of the country, while they promote the Intereft of individuals.
There are feveral hills in this pariih, which; being viewed' from the plains below, add much to the grandeur and variety of the prOfpeQ. Several of theft hills arc covered with fir plantations, which cannot fail to pleafc the eye, as, the Bill above Foulis, the hiU of Swordic, and Tome others^ Knockmartin, a fmall hill, compared to the ref>| i^ fitiiateit On the eaft fide of the hill of Swordle, and is lecn from the feafide. Its chief beauty confi (Is in its fhape, it tapers gra-^ dually from the bafe to the highcft point, forming a cone. Thb hft mentioned, as well as the higher hills beyond !t, are covered with heath. But the moft diftinguiflied hill in the pariih is Ben-uaifb, which towers above all the reft j and muft be extremely high, as h is fcen in Moray and Banff-
fliire*
i6t SiatifikalJaoUHi
ihire. fieii-iiaifh is always covered with fnow, even tn thii houeft day in fummer. And, in aflufion to this» there is a remarkable claufe inferted in one of the charters of the &• jenily of Fowlis, which is, that the forcft of Uaiih is held of the King on condition of paying a fnow-ball to his Majcfiy on any day of the year^ if re<]uired. And we are afiiired that a quantity of fnow was aftually fent to the Duke of Gumberlandj when at Invemeis> in 1 746, to cool his wine. There is a great deal of heath and coarfe grafs, which is «KCcUent pafture for cattle, all around this hill i and the fo- reft is well (locked with deer, and a variety of moor
jStf CXmatft and JD//^/j/^/.— -The air is generally clear and pure s and it has been obierved, in this, as well as the neigh- bouring pariflies, that the weather has been more changeable for twenty years paft than in former times. That rain has £»llen of late years in a greater propdi-tlon than it did for- merly, is a well known fa£t, which has materially injured the crops, and occafioned late harvefts over all the north of Scotland. And, that the air is more cold and moift upon the higher, than upon the lower ground, is found to hold true, in this diftriA, as well as in other corners of the king- dom. But, notwithftanding the variablenefs of* the weather, the climate of Kilteam is by no means unhealthful ; nor can the inhabitants Impute the difeafes they fometimes hbour under to any noxious quality in the air, but rather to acci- dental caufes. We are credibly informed, that the fcarcity of bread in 1782 has impaired the conftitutions of feveral people in the lower ranks of life, and entailed obftinate dif- eafes on them. When an infeftious fever attacks any fiunily in the parifh, it is generally communicated to fome of their neighbours, and makes feveral breaches before it ceafes i b\ii
k
• of Kiltearn. %6^
k is a praVidenrial circumftance, that the people are feMom ▼ifited with fuch a calamity. The epidemical difeafe mpft dreaded is the natural fmall-poz, which ufually fwecps awaf a number of children once in feven years, and fometimet oftener. In tKe year I777» above 30, and in 1778 no fewer than 47 children died of this difeafe. There is not the leaft doubt that this grl!at mortality was owing in part to the improper treatment of the patientSi and the negleft of ino* culation, to which the people are ftill averfp, in fpite of the earneft pcrfuafion and example of their fuperiprs, con- firmed by a fuccefsful prafticc in almoft every inftance where k has been attempted. Rheumntic complaints have alfo been more frequent than formerly within thefe 30 years, owing probably to the fubrtitution of linen for flannel (bins among the lower ranks ; • and a return to the ufe of flannel and vroolen is found to be the mod efficacions remedy for tlus complaint.
V
Before we conclude this article, it may be proper to pb- fcrve, that the following inflances of longevity, which fecni to be well attefted, zWorA a very favourable teflimony of tfae faealthfulnefs of the air and climate of this parifh. About the year 1706, Katharine M«KenzIe died at Fowlis in the 117th year of her age. In 1782, Mr John Brown, late faftor of Fouiis, died in his 107th year. In 1775, Kennetli Munro, late of Inveran, died in this parlfli, in his locth year i and Mrs Munro, his wife, died 4 years after him, 5n her 88th year. The only inflancc which we fliall add is a gentleman, a heritor of the pari(h, who had been a member •of the laft Scotch, and of the firft Britifli parliament 5 he died about 30 years ago, in his 94th year. And, within thefe few ycars^ a lifter and daughter of the fame gentleman died Jicrc, who were jcry little fliort of the fame age,
Sc/7
$64 Stati/lkat Aeccuni
^oU and Pr^duci.^^Tht foil here is varioDff is nMght b^ cspe£ted in ib larjje a diftriA ef land. In' the highland dif^ triAf the foil is either mofly^ or a cold clay, mixed widi find /or gravel, very unfriendly to vegetation. On the banks of )ihe rivers the meadovi are fcovered with a toogb, ftrong tor^ prodttcing a coarfe fort of grafs, fitter for4^aftnring joud^ cattle than for f(»ttening them, or producing milk. And it would probably be for the intereft, both of landlord and te« nant, that a plough were never ufed ip this diftrijt % for, the' corn may grow, yet, through the cold and moiftnre of the climate, it feldpm ripens fo as to make good bread. In the low diftri£i of the pari(h, again, the dificrence of foil is very obfervable. Towards the eaft, it is light and gravelly. la the middle, for about two mile^ fquare^ there is a rich loam, fit to produce any vegetable, with proper culture. As we proceed further on, the foil is black and fpoi^ ^ but, by means o^ drains, it has of late years been greatly improved. The weftern divifion of the parifli confifts chiefly of a ftrane clay foil,^ fome of it of a reddiih hue, which, when well wrought, produces excellent crops. The feafons fopr fowisf and reaping, in this pariib, are as difierent as the degrees of activity, and the unaccountable prejudices of various ^umers. Some lay it down as a ma^m, never to begin (owing till a certain d^y of the month, when their fathers and grandfa- thers were accu(h)med to fow. Qthers, again, embrace the ^rft opportunity, when the foil is fufficicntly dry to receive the feed } an<3i the effefk is fuch as might naturally be expe&- ed« The fpirited aAive farmer, who fows early, reaps an early harveft, and the beijk corn ^ while the others fuficr all the inconveniences of a late harveA. But, we muft here re« mark, what is very obrervable, that the farmers on the oppo» fite fide of the bay, in what is called the Black Ifle, never fail to reap their corn a fortnight or twenty days earlier than the
inhabitant^
if Kilteam. Big
Inhabitants of this parifli ; and yet they are e^pofed to the dorthj while Kiltearh has a fouth afpe£l. The difference muft certainly be owing to the quality of the foil. That on the oppofite Ihore is a moiild mixed with fand and gravel> thicfly Ibunded on quarry. As to the produflions of this parifh^ were we to mention ihem all, we would enumerate the feve- ral animals and vegetables that ai-e moft commoilly to be met with in Korth Britain, with the aLtdition of thofe produc- tions peculiar to highland cduntri^s. The hills abound with fed deer, atld ill kinds of moor game } and various birds and beafts of prey, as eagles, hawks, foxes^ &c; in the extenfive heaths df this diftriClj a great variety of berries is produced, tnoA of which are very grateful to the tafte. During the winter ftorms, thete are ihoals of fea-fowls on the coaft here, fuch as wild duAs, and a fpecies of geefe called rwd geifi^ which ai'e i:(leemed good eating. Some ihci^fi[h are likewife found up<^n the coail, fuch aS muicles, cockles, and wilk^. The fea- coaft beifig (booth and iandy for the mod parr, ihere is little fea-weed, and none at all fit for burning kelp. Bee-hives were formerly VC17 plentiful in this parifli, but no\<r it is probable that thtre ard not above 20 in the wi^ole diilriA. The paHOi ufcd to be greatly infefted with rats) but they are now almoft extirpated. Whether this is owing to the induilry of rat-killet-s, Who haVe been employed to dcUrcy them, or whether they have emigrated to fome other dil- triAf U not known. As the prejudice againft eating fwine's fle(h it in a great meafiire overcome, a coniiderable number of pigs is reared herci Not only tstvj fermerj but every houfe-keeper, reafs annually one or two pigs, and fome half a dozen ; the greateft number of which are ibid at the neigh- bouring markets ; and, when tolerably well fed, fetch from 20 to 30 (hillings a piece. The breed of black cattle here is Tariaus. In the Highlands, they were fmall Czcd and hardy. Vol. I. LI but
^66 StattfitcalyAccoum
but not quite to fmall as the common breed of cattle In cotm^ ties farther to the north. But the gentlemen and principal farmers have been at great pains to improve their breed of cattle by purchafing fome from Fife and Moray, vhkh are conHderably larger than the common breed of the country. Some of the lal^ mentioned, when full fed, fell for L. lo or L. 12. The horfes of the parifh are alfo of two kinds; fome of a large Galloway fize, which the gentlemen ufc m ploughing and carting, value from L. lo to L. ao each; and a tew worth L. 25. But the greateft number of horfes are what arc commonly cuLed Highland Garrom^ value from JL 3 to L. 5 each. There are few goats in the pari(h \ and thele ar^ the property of two tenants, who occupy very re- • mote poiTcflions. The number of (heep at prefent is very inconfiderable, and, for the moft part, of a very inferior qua- lity, being of a fmall fi2e, and producing very little wool. At prefent, there are only two or three farmers in the priih who manage their Iheep properly j and one of their (heep is worth two of any other farmer's. The rearing of iheep hu been rather difcouraged for fome time paft, being found fo deftruAive to young plantations- of timber ; but it is not dou'oted that| in a few years, the rearing of this ufcful animal will become a principal objedt both with the landlords and te- nants*
Wc fliall conclude this article, by giving a lift of the num-^ ber of horfes, black cattle, and fhcep, in the parift, which, according to the beft information, cannot be far diftant from the truth.
Horfes of the larger fisse • - - 65
———of the fmaller fizc - - - 305
Black cattle, including oxen - . - - ^o^o
Sheep - - - ^ ^ ^ (iz:i
5f Kiltearru i6y
JfAfHtanis; their Origin^ and Progrefs in Civirtzation. — It is well known, that in many parts of Scotland, particularly in the north) every diftrift is inhabited chiefly by fomc one par- ticular tribe or clan. So it is in this country. The name of Rois prevails in the eaft, Mackenzie in the weft) and Munro an the middle diftri£l \ i. e. in the two contiguous pariQies of Kiltearn and Alnes, which diftriA of country is commonly called FtrindQnald: which name appears to be of very an- tientdate. Buchanan relates, that, about the beginning of the nth century. King Malcolm II. of Scotland fued out the lands in the country to the great families in it, on account of their eminent fervices in aflifting him to extirpate the Danes out of his kingdom. And, according to tradition, it was on that occafion that the country between the borough of Dingwall and the water of Alnes, in the (hire of Rofs,' was given to Donald Munro, the progenitor of the family of Fowlis> from which all the Munros in this country are de- fcended : And part of thefe lands were afterwards by the King ere£led into a barony, called the l^aronj ofFowIis. From this Donald Munro is lineally defcended the prefent Sir Hugh Munro, Bart, who is the 29th baron of Fowlis, and proprie- tor of about two-thirds of the lands in the parifl) of Kiltearn. Under this head, we may obferve, that, in antient times, thofc tribes or dans who inhabited different diftrifts of the country, looked upon themfclves as a diftinft people or na- tioDj united together under their refpedlive chiefs or leaders, who cxercifed a fovereign, and at the fame time a parental, authority over them* They looked up to the chief as to their common father 3 he looked upon them as his children, whom he protected as well as governed. That there were conftant feuds and conflidh maintained between the neighbouring clans or tribes, is a faft well known. Many circumftances concur- red to occafiop thefe conflifts. and to fupport this warlike
fjpirit.
fi 63 Statl/iical Account
fpirlt. In thprc rude and remote ages, when trade and comr piercp wefe little attended to, men of an enterprifing fpirit had no other field for diftinguifhing themfelves but by their fupcrior ikill in the ufe of arm$. f^is induced them to watch for every opportunity of difplaying their martial atchicvc- ments \ and hence it ofteu h^PP^tied, that the flighted af- fronts were refented as the greateft injuries, cfpecially from pne of a diSercnt tribe or clan. And it was not uncommon^ for the fake of a meitrr punAilio, or point of honour, to fee I wo neighboi^ring clans marching out to battle, ar^d. main- taining the bjoody confliA till viAory was declared on oue <idc. The conflift being over, it was ofua] that the chief or leader beftowed fome mark of favour upon thofe of his fol- lowers who h^d diftioguiihed themfelves by their valour. Whtn both fides were wearied out with the JFatigues of war, there was ufually a bond of amity or firiendfliip entered into by. their leaders, in which they bound themfelyesi and their followers, to maintain peaces which deeds were executed with all the folemnity of treaties entered into between two fovercign powers. But, even after the chiefs of the clam became more enlightened and humanifed than to encourage |hc old feuds, they found it no cafy matter to rci^rain the lower ranks among th^ir followers from aflaffinatlng their neighbours, aqd committing depredations on their property. A ftriking proof of which we learn from > tranfaftion that happened in this part of the country little more than a cen-^ tury a^o, when there was a bond of friendihip entered into between the families of Seaforth and f o^ylis. An old record, \y\x\ch gives a charafler of Sir Johh Munro of Fowlis, fpeaks thus : < He lived in good correfpondence fvith his neigh- < hours ; for there was a mutual condefcendence pad bc« f t\yixt Kenneth Earl of Seaforth and Sir John Munro, there- f in defigned Johp Mfinro younger of Fo'wliSj of which the
• tcnqr
ef Kiliearni '' «<J9*
t« tenor follows :' — " At Edinburgh the twcntlc third day of f* January, javic and fextie one years. It is condefcended and « agreed as follows, that is to fay, We Kenneth Earl.of $ca« *l forth, and John >Iunro younger of Fowlis, taking to our «• cQnfidcratlon how prejudicial it hath been to both oiir fa- ce milies that there hath not been of a long time, fo good a f< correfpondence betwixt us as was befitting men of that << conjunAion and neighbourhood, and of what advantage it « will be to us, to live in good correfpondence and confe- f5 ^tmAe one with another, and to maintain and concur for << t^e weal jof either. For the which caufes, We th(C faid noble f * Lord, and John Munro younger of Fowlis, taking burthen <( on us for our friends, kinfmen, and all others whom w^ *f may ftop or let, do by thir prefents bind and oblige us and ^< our heirs faithfully upon our honours to maintain and <* concur with each other, for the good of both and our ^ forefaids and to prevent as much as in us lyes, what may ^ be to the prejudice of either of us or of any in whom ei- <* ther of us may be concerned in all time coming, as wit- «« nefe thir prefents fubfcribed by us the place, day, 'month ^ and year above written and - mentioned, before thefe wit« ^f nefles, Thomas M^Kenzie of Plufcardin, Colin M'Kenzie <* of Redcal!le, Lieutenant Colonel Alexr Munro, and Majo|r <f Alexr Munro Commiflar of Stirling. Sic fubfcribitur, &ea^^ «« yiff, John Munro." But notwithftanding this bond of friend- fliip between the chiefs of both clans, it cannot be denie4 that a good deal of the old fpiric difcovered itfelf on various occaliotis among their followers and adherents, till It was xnoft happily fuppreflcd at the memorable aera 1745 — 6. It is our good fortune to live in an age when we fee thofe whofe I>redcceflbrs, in rude and barbarous times, feldom met but vvith hofiile intentions, now living in habits of fincere friend*
fhlR
mjrn^ BUdiJIUdJjmmi
fliip ap4fi)cbl intercourle, mach to their mutual haoanr aa4 sdvaotage.
Poffulationf^^In order to afcertain with accuracy the popo* f ation ot thb poriih, a Carvty was made between the begin- ning of January and the middle of March 179I9 from which we are enabled to give the following account of that iiQpor^ tant article :
Number of houfes, or fmokes - - 38;
■ fouls .pp. 1616 ^ males • . ,. ^ tfp^ ^— '■■ females - • « 92 a Under 10 years of age t • » 448 From 10 to 20 » ^ * 306
20 to 30 • ^ • 219
1 30 to 40 - ^ - ao^
40 to 50 f- • . ' 173
.— - 50 to 60 - . w . I4J
■ ■ 60 to 70 - r - 81 70 to 80 - - w - 29
^ 80 to po "- « p V 9
Married perfons of both fezes - - 492
Unmarried women from 18 to 50 • • 1^3
*— -> men paft 20 - - - ^2
— women paft 50 • - - 84
Widowers - • - tg
Widows - • • « 96
From the foregoing lift it.appearsj ift, that many of the inhabitants of the pariHi live to what may be reckoned old age; 2dlyi that the number of females hr exceeds that of tl^e nicies ; and, 3dly, that the number of widowers is but
imaUa
ifkiliearfi; "^
imalli while the number of widows is (b great^ is muft exalte tompaflion in every feeling bread. If the number of houfci or fmokes fliaU appear confiderable, let it be obferved, Utit moft of them are mlferable huts, and that fome 6( thiem aref only inhabitcfd by a poor folitary widow, or by a fmgle ti^t^ who works for days wages wherever he can' find eiAployment. At diSerent periods of time th6 population of this parifti has varied rouchi which can be cafily accounted for^ VTc lesrfi from good information, that, about the beginning of this ceft*. tury, there Were nearly as many inhabitants in this pariAi a» there are at prefenc. This fa£b fcems to be farther eftablifli- ed by fome old fcffion regifiers of baptifms and marriages between the year 1700 and 1728, extrafts of which arc fub« joined, k is to be regretted that there are feveral charoi© in thofe recordsj which prevents our giving the e«tra£b fo Completeljr as might be wifhed f but to fhew ckariy that the population here had gradually diminifhed between the year t740 and 1770, lifts are given of the baptifms and marriages celebrated about that period, viz. from 1747 to i7$2^ Tlie diminution of the number of inhabitants then can be very i^tionally accounted for. That martial fpirit which has hceit a diftinguifliing thara£teriftic of the Munros, led p^rfdns of every rank and delcription in this parifh to fly to arms as Ibon a; the trtunpet founded the alarm of war. By this means the flower of the young men of Kiltearn were fcatter- cd abroad in aH the coontries that have been the feat of war cUiring that period $ in Flanders, in Germany, in the Eaft and Weft Indies, and: in America i befides, feveral hundreds bave gOQe as recruits to the Scots Brigade in Holland, which- eflabliflunent was at that time one of the chief fields of pre- ferment for young gentlemen of family. It is no wonder, then, that a country which for a long time had been a nurfe« Tj for the armyj fhould, in^ a courfe of years, decreafe confi-
derablj
^erMf in popi^ation. But, .at the peace 17631 foch maif bers,. botb of oficcrs and private foldiers, flocked home to. their native country^ that the population is fenfibly increafed ilnce that period. Add to this, that the various buildings and improvements which have been carried oq in this oelgh* bourhood within 20 years, has induced m;lny labourers and artificers to (etf le amon^ US| and confiderably increafed the number of inhabitants*
'The following lifts, extrafled from the fefiion records, wiQ fully illuftrate what has been advanced above, by giving a ^iew of the population at three feveral periods, viz. at the beginning of this century, about the middle of it, and at the prefent time*
Lilt during the l^irft Period*
Yeafs. Baptifms. Marriage^.
1702, from January 6. to September 17. 33 ho record.
1724, during the whole year « 42 ; B
^725 • • • i 36 • §
1726 . . . . . 18 i 4
1727 ...... 21 . li)
Lift during the Second Period.
1747 • i3 i t
X748 -2^ • *
«749 i? • ^
1750 .28 .11
175X * . 26 ' i 9
1752 . . • . ^ .' 2^ . I*
'54 S3
Yearly average, nearly 26 ^
Lift
of Kiltearn. Lift during the Third Period.
»73
|
YeaVs. |
Baptifms. |
Marriages, |
Burials, |
|
1784 |
31 |
9 |
|
|
1785 |
34 • |
II |
|
|
1785 |
34 • |
7 |
|
|
1787 |
34 . |
7 |
|
|
1788 |
40 |
8 |
|
|
1789 |
. l6 . |
8 |
|
|
1790 |
45 |
• >S |
|
|
^54 |
<5j |
190 |
|
|
Yearly average. |
bearlj 36 |
9 |
27 |
Though no public regifter of the burials has been kept here» yet, from memorandums kept by private per fons, and the beft information we could obtain on the fubje£t| there is every reafon to believe that the above is a correct ftatement for the laft feven years*
Heritors^ Rentj a fid Farms, — ^Thcre are fix heritors or pro- prietors of land in this parifli ; and the two moft confider* able of them refide conftantly in it ; one refides occafionally ^ and the remaining three live upon other parts of their pro- perty. About 60 years ago, there were more than twice the prefent number of heritors ; but thefe were chiefly cadets of the family of Fowlis, who had at difierent periods derived their pofl^ffiods from that family ; and, when thofe fmall he- ritors were obliged to fell off their lands, they have reverted, by purchafe, to the original proprietors. The valued rent of the parifli is L.^ 3.1 49 : 9 : 6 Scots \ the real rent about L. 1500 Sterling. Formerly, the greateft part of the rent was paid in viftual ; but a good deal of the vi£hial is now converted*
Vol. L Mm h
474 Stai0ical Account
It is not eafy to fay what the rate of converfion is^ being (&/-« ferent on the properties of the feveral heritors. In ftating the rent of the parifh, we have fet no value on the exten- five plantations of growing timber^ which muft bring a con* fiderable revenue to the proprietors in a few years^ and may probably be eftimated at L. 30,000. As the greateft part of the lands in the parifli have been meafured by furveyors, we can give a pretty ezaft account of the number of acres of a« rable ground, which are reckoned to be about 2250, excla- five of woodlands and pafture ground that has never been cultivated. The lands have let at various prices ; fome acres at 20 s. fome at ,17 s. 15 s., 12 s. 10 s. and none below 8s; but, as the arable and pafture grounds, both in the high and low diftrifts of the parifh, are ufually let to tenants in the lump, without diftinguifiiing the value of each acre, the above eftimate is but conjectural, though founded on the bed information that can be had. One third part of the whole arable land in the parifb is now in the pofleffion of the proprietors, and has been occupied by them for feverat years pad. How far this may be favourable to their interefts, they will be beft able to judge when they fum up their ac- counts of profit and lo(s ; but it is the prevailing opinion in this country, that gentlemen of fortune and landed property rather lofe than gain by extenfive farms. No doubt, much depends on their being fortunate in getting ikilfiil, a£live, and faithful overfeers. All the gentlemen's farms in this pa- viOi are at prefent managed, either by natives of the fouth of Scotland, or by perfons bred to farming there. It may there- fore be expe&ed that the fame implements of hulbandry, and the fame rotation of crops, will be found on thofe farms which are under their management, as we fee in Fife or Eaft Lothian, except when a different mode of farming is pur- fued, to gratify the views of the proprietor. The next in
rank
af Kiltearn. 275
rank to the heritors are the better fort of farmers^ who mxf be thus clalTed :
Tenants paying about L. 80 rent • • %
■ — ■■ 40 . • . J
!—— from L. 20 to 10 . • • 9
-— — from L. 10 tp 3 • • • • 5$
The principal farmers mentioned above keep good cattle and farming utenfils ; and of late years they fow fome clover and rye-grafs feeds, as well as their landlords. They are alfo 'ambitious to have their farms properly incbfed, on rea- fonable terms ; but the other clafles of tenants confider in- dofures as, a grievancci and would rather partake of every' thing in common. Their cattle are alfo of an inferior fize ; and they never fow grab feeds \ but, inftead of this, when their land is exhaufted by a repeated fucceffion of crops, they allow it to lie Ua or uatilled for two or three years ; du- ring which time they padure it till it gets a turf again ; and then till and fow it with oats, and 4eave another piece of ground lea In its turn. It Is no wonder that thcfe farmers fhould have poor returns from their lands \ for, nothing but fcanty crops can be expeAed from fuch wretched manage- ment. Another dafs of people flill remains to be mentioned, who, though they cannot be ftrlAly called farmers, are fo in part, as they occupy one, two, or three acres of ground. Thefe are commonly called cottars, 1. e« cottagers, or maiU tx%^ and often hold of the principal farmer. They do not depend on farming for their entire fupport4 being, in ge- neral^
^y6 Siaii/lUal Account
tieralj artificers, mechanics, or day-labourers ; and thele lail do. more juflice to their lands, ai\d rear better crops on their fmall lots than the poor tenants do on larger poflef- fions, 9 We fhall not attempt to give the exaA number of all the cottars and mailers in the parifh ; but of fuch of them as are artificers and mechanics, together with fheir apprentices, the following is a complete lid.
|
Blackfmiths . , , |
3 |
Taylors |
8 |
|
Mafons and flaters |
M |
Shoemakers |
• 9 |
|
Joiners and coopers |
8 |
Millers |
3 |
|
Cart-wrights |
4 |
Shopkeepers |
. 4 |
|
Weaver* . |
6 |
Apprentices |
. 3^ |
|
Dyer . |
I |
Bleacher |
I |
We may obferve, that, as the above number of mecha- nics cannot be fuppofed to find cpnftant employment in the pari(h, they work opcaiionally in th^ neighbourhood, and employ their leifurc hours in cultivating their fmall lou of land, where potatoes are always th^ ftaple crop. Among fuch a number of farmers as we have defcribed, there mud \^ various methods of culture- On the farnu of the bet- ter fort, i| U common to fee t^o ftrong horfes yoked in the plough, under the management of ^ fing)e ploaghman, or ijx oxen yo^ed in fucpeffive pairs, whicli require a driver. Others, again, join two horfes and two oxen, believing that the fprightlinefs of the horfes will carry forward the oxen with more alacrity. But the poorer tenants yoke in one plough, horfes, oxen, and cowsj promifcuoufly, which often exhibit a miferable fpeAade, and clparly Ihews that they are snore folicitous to increafe the number, than improve the quality of theu* cattle. Within a dozen years^ an unproTC-
meat
tf Kiliearn. ayy
fftent has been introduced, which dcrcrvcs to be peculiarly attended to, as it has anfwered all the good purpofes that were expe£led from it, viz. The oxen are now hamefled by many farmers in the fame manner as horfcs, which they work in the plough ; the confequence is, that the animal draws with more power, and alfo with more Teeming eafe to itfelf, than when it was yoked by the neck. And, to pre- vent any inconveniency arifing from the horns of the ox in putting on the collar, there is a flrap and buckle ufed, by which the collar opens and (huts. The prevailing opinioa feems to be in favour of labouring with oxen rather than horfcs, which are liable to fo many accidents, and a certain lofs in the end ) but it has fared with this, as with many o- tber juft maxims, it is more readily aifented to in fpeculation tjian reduced to praAice. There are about lo oxen wains liow in this parish, befides 30 coops or box carts, drawn by two horfes, employed by the proprietors and principal farm- ers, i^bput twenty years ago, there were fcarccly half that number* There are near 100 ploughs of all forts, but many of them very light and trifling. Befides the carts now men- tioned, there are about 300 fmall rung carts, as they are called, which are employed in leading home the fuel from tbe mofsj and the corn to the barn-yard. Thefe carts have, ];iftead of wheels, fmall folid circles of wood, between ao ^d 24 ipches diamptcr, called tumbling wheels. It is alfb very common to p|ace a coarfp, firong bafket, formed like a fugar loaf, ^crofs thefe fmall carts, In which the manure is carried from the <)unghill fo the field. Thefe kinds of carts are called Kellachys \ and are not only ufed in this diftrift, t)at over all the north country. To form fome idea of the ihne of farming in thb diftriA, we fubjoin the following ab-» finafi of t^ie m;^mer in which the ground is laid down, toge- ■' ' . ' thcr
sis StatlfiiciU Account
tber with the proportions which the ieveral crops bear 14 each other.
Acres.
Sown with oats, about • . • looo
— - barley , . . • . 500
■ pcafe . . . . 120 i-*-* clover and rye grafs • • 300 potatoes . • • • 140
— turnips . . . • 30
— wheat . • » . 30
■ beans • . . • 10 — — flax • • . • 6
— rye , . . . .20 «— — leas ^ f • • • * 94
2250 The average returns from the above fowings are very incon- fiderable. The barley yields only about 5, and the oats 4 returns. HencCi even in the bef^ years, the parifli can fpare very little corn for the market. The rcafon why flax and wheat are fo little cultivated in the parifl)| is the want of mills to manufaAure thcfc articles.
Price of Labour and Prevjjioru. — ^Thc wages paid to fcr- yants engaged in domedic employments vary according to the circumftances of their mafters ; but the wages of thofe fervants who are employed in the labours of the field can be more eafily afcertained. Of j^hefe laft mentioned, (bme eat in their matter's houfe, but by far the greateft number live in cottages of their own, and receive 6 bolls of meal inftead of board, and L. 3 pounds Sterling of wages annually. This is the average rate for ordinary ploughmen and carters. From (bif rulei however, there are many exceptions* A plough- man
tf Ktliearn. «?f§
than who exceb fometimes get L. ; or L« 6 wages, and 8 <hr lo bolls of meal. Befides the above, every man fervant has the privilege of planting abont half a boll of potatoes for his own ufei rent free. The ufual wages of female fervants ia farmers houfes is from L. i : 4 : o to L. i : lo : o yearly. The common method of managing the harveft work is to hire a certain numb^ of (hearers for the harveft quarter, pro- portioned to the iize of the farm : This is the old cnftom. The men get about a boll and an half, and the women a boU of meal, inftead of meat and wages, during the harveft fea- fon. But the a£cive and intelligent part of the farmers begin to Tee the inconvenience of the above praAice ^ becaufe, while they are confined to a few hands, they may lo(e by one ftor* my day as much as would defray the whole charges of cut* ting down the crops. Hence^ they now hire their (hearers for the day, and increafe or diminl(h their number according to the (hte of their crops. This is evidently the more ra« tional plan of the two. The men receive 7 d. per day, and the women 6 d. The price of mowing hay is ufually Ironi 2s« ad. to as. 6d. per acre. Day labourers receive for or- dinary work 6 d. per day all the year through, and fomething extraordinary if their labour is harder than ufual. They are^ more willing, however, to work by the piece \ and then they will earn, perhaps, i s. and upwards per day. Trenching ground about 18 inches deep, if it be free from roots and ftones, cofts 4 d. the rood of 6 yards fquare ^ but, if the foil is rugged, and hard to work, it cofts 8 d. The price of grain^ meal, and all forts of provifions, has been gradually ad« vaocing for feveral years, and is not likely to fall. Pcr« haps the average price of barley and oat-meal, for 20 years paft, has been about 14 s^, per boll. This obfervation, and what follows refpefting the price of provifions, holds true with regard to a confiderable part of the county of Rofs, as
weU
^tm Siatifiscai Aec^nt
wdl as the pariih of Kiltearn. Nothing can give a better idea of the advanced price of provifionsi than the following comparative view of the price of fome neceiTary articles of living in 1760 and 1790*
|
Prices in 1760. |
Prices in 1790. |
|
Bollofbarleji or oat-meal L. 0 10 0 |
L. 0 t6 0 |
|
Highland cow • • i 16 0 |
300 |
|
Beef and mutton per lb* 0 0 i ^ |
0 0 2ito 3d. |
|
Fowls each • • 0 0 ij |
0 0 4 to 5d. |
|
Stone of botteri of a i lb. 060 |
0 12 to 149. |
|
0 4 to 5 s* |
The above advan^ced price of provlfions muft be fenCbly felt bj perfons whofe incomes are ftationary, and who have no means of improving them.
Poor, — ^There is little difference as to the method of pro- viding for the poor in the feveral pariHies of this county, but What arifes from the largenefs or fmallnefs of the funds ap- propriated for that purpofe. It is truly matter of regret, that no proper and effe£lual fcheme has ever been deviled among us tb provide for the poor. At prefent they chiefly fubfift by begging from door to door, not only in the relpec* tive parilhes to which they belong, but over all the county; and it would feem hard' to prohibit them from begging, as they have no alternative but to ftarve. The weekly collec- tions made in the churches are very inadequate to the pur- pofe of fupporting the poor in any of our pariihes. In this parifh, the coUe£tions never exceed L. 8 or L. 10 Sterling yearly. About L. 6 arifes from charitable mortifications, which, added to the above, makes the whole fund for the poor about L. zj. After paying the feifion-clerk| and fome
other
t>f Kilieam. a8i
tttbcr oifecers of the church, there remains only about L. lo Sterling, ^hich is cliftributed once a year among the moft . tadigent perfons of the parifti by the kirk-fcffion, in prcfcncc of the heritors. But how fmall a relief can this afford, when there arc ufoally above lOo pcrions upon the poor's lift here, Who have every clahn to charity that indigence, and inHrmity can give them ? nor vrill it appear furprifing that the poor's roll in this place ibonld be fo large, when it is re- coHcfled that there arc jKJ widows in it.
Riviri^ Lahis^ and FiJhrUs^r^ Among the feveral ftrcam* of water which run through this pariih, only two of them dcferve to be mentioned. Firft, Skiak, which falls into the iia, clofc by the churcbu The banks on both fides arc cover-, cd with brnihwood and trees of various kinds, nu)ft of which grow naturally. This river being traqed to hs fource, is found, to terminate in a collection of fmall ftreams that meet toge- ther in the valleys, at the foot of the feveral mountains. The other river which we ffaall mention is Aultgrande, i. e, in Gaelic, the ug^y wafer^ or ium, fo called on, account of fome* rockr throfigh which it runs down, that make a very formi- dable appcarancCv whkh will be more particularly delcribed under the article Curif/ltief. This river falls into the fea about half a mUc eaft ci the former, and has its banks on each fide covered with trees and (hrubs. When the fnow meks on the mountains, this river frequently pours down its ftreams with great rapidity, and often proves highly detrimental to the adjacent lands. It takes its rife in Loch Glafs, a beautiful firefli water lake about 6 miles from the Tea. This lake never fireezes till about the fpring feafon, and DOC even then, unlefs the firoft be uncommonly fevere. k is about 5 miles long, and near i mile broad, and navi* gabk all the way, ThiS| together with (everal other fmaller
Vol.. I. N n lakes
38^2 Statijtioal Accmmt
lakes fituated upon the north fide of Ben-Uaiihy aflSards abmi^ dance of fine trouti though they are not of a large fise« There k a fmall ifland near the fouth end of this lake» whera it is^ faid one of the lairdt of Fowlis had formerly a (hmmcr- hottfe. BeCdes the trout taken* m the risers and lakca^ there are a good number of fatmon caught on the lea coaft, ibmetimes by nets and cobles, called a ^fiMffinng^ bot chie£> ly by means of jraires, or fmall iodofures, buUt in a corre or femicircular form near the (bore* At high water the ialmon comes within thefe yaires, and at low water is eafily taken, having no way to eTcape- This b the fimplcft and cheapeft mode of fifhing that cart be deidicd. There are uTiiaHy feur or five yaires kept up in the parifli ; and each proprietor takes fifh enough to fupply himielf and a fcw friends. In a argood filling ftafim* he can- fend feme to market. Flour* ders, herring-fry, or fprats^ are frequently taken in thefe yaires.
FcffUs^Mines^ and Mimrab,-^lx^ diggmg bt peats in Ac mofles of this pariih, numbers of fir trees are founds which' irf&rd a clear proof that thofe extcnfive traAs of ground were once covered with*treeS| which muft have added much to the •beauty'of the country,, and have been ihelter to the cattk. Thefe trees that are dug out of the mofles are perfrAly foimd, and lafl long when applied to the purpoie of building. One chief benefit derived from them is, that they bum wctt, and aflfbrd excellent light to the country people, who cannot af* ford to buy candles. Clay and ihell marl are to be found in this parifh« The clay marl is met with in a mois called Soginturie, upon the eflate of Fowlis, 3 miles diftant from the fea (liore. There is abundance of it ; and it has anfwcred well with thofe who have tried it. It will probably come in- to more repute in proportion as the true notion of fiuming
prevaOs.
'prmdls. The ibtU marl^ though <^ an tzceUent quality^ ^does not afford ft rich a lupplf as the other» as there is onlf ar fmall vein that appears near the church, and is found in •the (aoie direfiion about the weft end of the pari(h. It is pretty remarkable that this fhell marl is found at the diftance of about 200 yards from the fea, and at leaft 30 feet perpen- dicular above its level. There are very flattering appear* aoces of coal in all the weftem part cf tlie pariflii from the fea to the hills. Several years ago, one or two attempts were made to diicover a proper mine, but it was not purfued with that ardour and perfeverance which the importance of the ^bje£l defewed. The perfop formerly employed only bored in a or 3 places. They acknowledged that they found coal* •^nt pretended it lay io deep, that unlefs the vein was confide- rable, it would not pay the expence of working ; but we can« not help fufpeAing that they knew but little, and prefumed a great deal. Confidering, however, the public fpirit and iade* .pendent fortunes of feveral gentlemen concerned, it is to be hoped that they will once more make a fair trial of the coal mines in this diftriA, by finkmg one or two pits, and employ- ing feme Ikillful hands for a few months to work in the mines, and afcertain the value of the coal. The expence would not be very greats The attempt would at leaft be lau- dable, and moft probably would be crowned with fuccefs. In a rock on the banks of Aultnacaorach, i. e, ihtjbeef burn^ (a rivulet that falls into Aultgrande), there are indications of lead ore. The only .trial ever made of it was about 36 years agOj by one Charles Smithy a common miner, who fmelted a piece of the ore taken from this rock, which produced good lead« Near the ftcrehoufe of Fowlis there is a chalybeate fpring, which has been drank with falutary effects about 60 years ago. There is another fpring at Teinleod, above Fowlis ijC^^AIe^ called Sit Colman's Well. Whether it has any me-
jdicin4
SS4 StatijUcalJctwit
dictnal vlrtise we have not heard ; bat it imz coxnmon pne- tjce, in the memory of fome ftill alive, tor foperftitioas per- fens to frequent the well, and, after drinking the water, to tye Tome rags to the branches of the fumMinding trees.
Roads and Bridges. — ^Very particular attention has been paid of late years to the roads in this diftriA ; and the bridges have been widened for the convenicncy of carriages. The new bridge over Aulrgrande is remarkably neat, and well fini(bed» and does credit to Mr Kyle, the arcfaite^V, who built it. AU the bridges are bulk and kept in repair at the expence of the county. The roads are kept i^ repair by the ftatute labour, which the inhabitants perform perfonally, s^nd very feldom by commutation. An improvement is now making on the road that leads through this parKh, which will add much to the pleafure and comfort of travellers. The chief heritor has, at a confiderable expence, carried off* the road in a (Weep or curve, about a quarter of a mile farther fouth than it was formerly* By this means, travellers will not only pais througl\ the middle of rich fields and fine plantations of trees, hot will alfo have a full view of that antient and elegant manfioa, Fowlis Caftle. This improved road was begun in 1790^ and will be completed in the courfe of 1791.
Villages^ Schools, 55* Manufa^ures,^^ThcTe is only one fmal^ village in the parilh, called Drummoud, Qtuated in a level field contiguous to the river Skiack. This village is yet iq its infancy ; but, as the fituation of it is centrical^ and a* greeable, being on the poftroad between Dingwall and Nor var Inn, there is every reafon to believe that it will increafe coniiderably in a few years. At prefent, there is a public houfe, two (hop. keepers, a dyer of woolen ftufis, who keeps a prefs and fcourlog-mill i and a few other mechanics. Two
hilt
if Kittearn. 985
fmn or markets are hdd here annually ; the one early ui June, and the other the firft week in December, where black cattle and other country commodities are fold | and, though the proprietor exacts no toll or ci^ftom, he inaintains a guard while the market lafts, to keep order, and prevent riots. The fair in December is known by the name of the Goofe-market. But, as no gecfe are fold at ic, the name Goofe- market has probably taken its rife from an eit* fertainment ufually given by the gentlemen of the parifh to ^he principal inhabitants on the fecond day of the markei;^ where a goofc (being then in feafon,) always makes a part of the leaft. On this occafion, there is no exceis in drinking encouraged ; and the company meet merely for the fake of ibcial intercourfe. Adjoining to the village of Drummond is the parifh fchool^ which is commonly attended by 60 or So children, and often by a much greater number. The (su iary paid by the heritors to the mafter is a chalder of barley % and, as precenter and feifion*clerk, his emoluments will a« mount to about h» 4> befides the quarter-fee? paid by the Scholars, which are as low and moderate as any where in Scot- land ; £ngli(h being taught for 1 s* per quarter ; writing I s. 6 d. ; arithmetic 2 s. ; and Latin as. 6d. It is no more than juftice to fay that the education of youth is at prefent conduced at the fchool upon the moft approved plan, and with correfpondent fuccefs. To which we may add, that, Jjefides what is ufually taught at grammar ichook, feveral o* ther branches of ufeful icience and literature are taught her^, fuch as the French language, geography, geometry, book« keeping, and the difierent branches of practical mathema* tJC8« This deferves the more to be remarked, becaufe iq lew country pariihes are favoured with iimilar advantages iFor educating their youth. Within a quarter of a mile of the Tillage of Drummoady to t]^ cafti pp the iarm of Uppqr
Balcony^
•S6 SiOiyUcal AccmH
BakoDjr, there is a Ucenied diftillerj for aquavitae or whifty^ which pays L. 30, and confumes about 180 bolls of barley yearly ; but It is much to be regretted that a great quantity of fpiriCSf befide the whole produce of this diftillery. Is coo* iumed within the parifli. On the oppofice fide of the river, and clofe to the New Bridge, is Culcaira Bleachfield, the only one in the county. This bleachfield was firft efia- MiQied by the late John Munro, Efq; of Cukaim, fiuher of the prefent proprietor of that name, in I75i« Though it promtfed weU for federal years, yet it afterwards dedioed much, while it pafled through the hands of difiia-ent maoa^ gers« In the year 17791 ^^ fortunately fell into the K^uih of the prefent manager, William Tait, from Salton Bleach- fidd in Eaft Lothian. The proprietor, obferving that Mr Tait was not deficient, either in ikill or aOivity, refolved to ^ve him every encouragement, granted him a leafe of the bleachfield, and built a comfortable houfe for him. A clear proof of the rapid progrefi this field has made under the prcfent manager is, that, in the year 1779, there were only 440 pieces of cloth bleached here; but, in the year 1790, the number of pieces ^mounted to 2242. The Hono«vable Board of Tniftees, being well informed of Mr Tait's indus- try and fuccefs, were plcafed, in 1786, to grant L« 50 for erefiing a drying houfe. And it is not doubted that, on a p»per reprefentation, they will give fome further aid to- wards fetting up proper machinery, and a complete bleaching apparatus, at this very flourifiiing field.
Inns and AU^boufes. — ^There are only two licenfed ale-hoo- fcs in the parifh which pay excife-duty ; one at Drummond, and the other at Wefter Fowlis. Thefe arc neceflTary for the accommodation of travellers, and for tranfaSdng conmry bttfinefs. But there are a number of blind whifty hos(e$,
fituatcd
itnatted In obfcure corners, at a diflance from the puldie road* Thefe laft are much frequented by tipplers^ and dram« drinkers, who rometiaies fit up whole nights at their debauch* ; Such tippling-houfes have proved a great nuifance for JCeyenA jears paft, and have been very prejudicial ta the health, the morals, and the circumftances, of ieveral inhabitants of this parilh. It is not uncotnmoa to fee two mechanics, or day* labourers, repairing once or twice a- day to one of th^ enfnaring hauuts, and dripking a choppin bottle of unmixed whifky at each time, with as great eafe as their forefathers would drink a Scots pint of twopenny ale, or finall beer. What adds ta the grievance is, that the keepers of thefe com rupting haunts arc not always very fcrupulous as u> the mode of receiving payment for their drink. When money fails, they wiH receive meal and victual at a low price, which is often ftolen from the mills, and farmers barns* When' this refource fails, they receive houfehold fbrniture, and wearing apparel. An evil that has come to fuch a height loudly calls • for the interpofition of the civil magiftrate ; and it is a great pity that the gentlemen of the diitridt who are juftices of the peace, and are remarkably temperate themfelves, have not made greater exertions to fupgrifs this growing evil*
Advantages and Difadvaniagn.'^ As it is the CQnnnon lol, of mankind to have their condition in this world checquer** ed with a mixture of good and evil, fo it cannot be denie<i that the inhabitants of Kiltearn have their own ihare,^ botb of the advantages and difadvantages of life. It is a very btm vourable circumftance for this pari(b, that it is fituated oa a beautiful bay, and within four leagues of Cromarty v hoxm which place there is a communication by fea once every fort« night to London and Leith. Beiides, there are three (everak harbours in the partfli^ viz. at Balcony, FowIls,.aad ArduUift
point.
m Siatijilcal Accmii
point, where veflels from 80 to 100 toils borden may load tod unload, and anchor with the greateft fafety, as there are Ho dangerous rocks or (helves near the fhore. Excellent free* ftone quarries, thai are eaCly wrought, are to be met in e* very comer of the pari(h. This circnmftance, added to the abundance of timber, affords great encouragement to carry old buildings, and other improvements. The advantages of education which are to be ^ad at the public ichools here, is avery encouragmg circnmftance to determine fuch as have fifing families to fettle among us. The prevailing tafte for btiildidgs and improvements among the gentlemen of the pa- fl& is a gr^t bleffing to artificers axid day-labourers ; which vfas particularly 'experienced in the hard years 1782 and 1783 5 being, under God, the mean of^ prcfcrving many &. tniiics ffbm perifliing for want of brdad. But, as the gentle- inen's improvements will foon be completed, many hands who are now employed will be at a lofs to provide for them- /elves and their families, unlcfs fome manufaftures arc fpecd- ii^ eftibliflied ; ahd, cbnfiderlng the great number of women in th^ parilh, it would be dcfirable that fome manufaaure Aould be Introduced to employ the females, and children of both fcxes ; for it is a hard'cafc, ^hen a labouring man is unable to work, by age or ficknefs, that his family has no means of earning a fubfiftcncc, however unwilling to work. This, leads us td mention another difadvantage which the poor women labour under here, which is, that they feldom have proper affiftance when in child-bcd, as there is no regularly bred midwife m the parifli. This often proves of faul con- icquence to women in that fituation, which, of all others, rttquire the moft tender care, as well as fkill. It is alfo much to be wifhed that the inhabitants in general were better lodged than they can poffibly be iA their prefcnt huts. In no ^untry, perhaps, are the gentlemen better lodged, and the ' tenants
tfKHteoMu %t^
ietents worie accomthodated, than in this parifli ; for, wha couM fuppofe that, among the 385 honfes in the pari{h» there are not forty, in which a perfon accuftooied to a decent ac^ commodation, would choofe to lodge a iingle night. Per- haps their being fo frequently obliged to remove their cottar ges makes them lefs folicitous to hate them comfortably built. The greateft, number are built of earth, and are ufu* ally razed to* the ground once in 5 or 7 years, when they ard added to the dunghiU. Indeed, they cannot afford to build them of better materials, not even with clay and ilone | and yet, as a proof of the late increale of population, when any of thefe mean huts become vacant^ there are perhaps five or fix candidates for them \ and the fucceisfui one is fuppo- led to owe the preference to fuperior intereft^ But^ among the chief difadvantagcs of this partfli may be reckoned the extreme poverty of many who become farmers^ Too many afitime this character who have hardly any ftbtk to begia with ; and the coniequence is, that, after (Iruggling for a few years to keep crediti-^they at laft iihk under the load of poverty, while the landlord has a long arrear of retlt due to him* hi a word, it cannot be denied that many among us have the name of farmers who ought more properly to bt day- labourers. Indeed, fome of their own hired lervants have the neceiTaries of life with a greater degree of comfort than their matters, the farmers* Oiie circumftance vtxj pre« judicial to the farmers b, that they are too much at the mercy of their fervants* When a fervant engages with a poor farmer, he bribes him with a promife of high wages % and, when money fails, he allows his fin^ant to fo# a quan- tity of com for his own ufe, and to keep a cow in fummer^ and perhaps two or three in winter, on the farm, which brings certain ruin upon the tenant in the end. We will add^ that it is a great lofs to have fo few juilices of peace in the Vot. L O o diftrirt
dgb StaH/Hcal Accdunt
diftrift to take cognizance of this and other grierancef. Ttt \zi\ particular we ihall mention, under the bead of difadTan- tage, is not confined to this pariih only, but is equally felt in the parifhes around us, viz. the pcrfbnal fervice of the te* nants. Thefc, however, were formerly more grievous than at preftnt ; for it is not long fince the farmers, their fcrvants, and horfes. muft have been ready at a call from the laird when he had any operations to Carry on on his farm, or o- thcrwife. They ploughed, harrowed, manured, and reaped^ the landlord's farm, while their own were often negleded. Here, however, we muft obferve, that, in former times, thefe fervices, though a burden, were not fuch a grievance as they would be now. The rents were then Tow, and mo- ney fcarce. Hence the iervices made a confidcrablc part of the revenue which landlords derived from their lands. Bat now the cafe is altered i and, wherever tenants are expcAed to thrive, perfonal fervices muft be difpenfed with, and commuted, lliat which has been longeft kept up, is the providing a certain quantity of peats or fuel for the mafler yearly, which interferes much with the labours of the huf^ bandman, as his whole time is employed in providm^^ his own and his landlord's fuel, from the time the feed is fown till the beginning of harveft. Thus, he iofes all that time in which he ought jto provide manure for his land. The per* fonal fervices of the tenants are, however, always limited, and as exuAly known as the rent of the farm. Some propri- etors of lands in the parlQi have begun, of late, to accept of a convcrfion for all fcivices, and alio to grant leafcs to the Induftrious part of the farmers. If thefe convcrfions were modcratevand if the tenants were encouraged to build decent houfes, it would conduce to the comfort of the farmer, and the iDtereft of the landlord.
*^ jf Kilteartti n 99^
Lanp$fi%t^ 9^ Etymology of Names.'^Tht laziguage com- monly fpoken hiere is the Gaelic^ or Karfe ; but« of late years^ the Englifli begins to be more cultivated than formeriy, and. i$ underftood by the generality of the inhabitants. The cjiurch feryice is pe;rformed bere» as in the greatefl part of. the county, in Q^elic in tbp forpnoo% an4 in Englifli in the aftCTDQoq.
The names of places feem. In general, to be of Gaelic ori- ginal. Fo)r exaiiiple, Balcony, that is, in Earfe, a dweiling- place, lliis Is a beautiful feat, fituatcd on the banks of the river Skiack/on a fine eminencei which flopes gradually to- wards the lea. This was formerly one of the feats of the antient Earls of Rofs. Hence it is called Balcony vie Dho- nail, dr MacDonald's habitation. Kctwal, that is, in Earfe, Kead vail, or, the firft pofleffion, acquired by the Earls of Rof*? iti thfs parifh. Tennaird, that is, the houfe on the height. Moun^gerald is a modern name given by Mr M^Kenzie, father to the prefent proprietor, to a place formerly called dyne, being fituated on an inclined plain. This name was gfiven in aHuiion to Fitzgerald, who came from Ireland, and who was the progenitor of the M^Kenzies.
Antiquittes and Curiofttitj.^^kho\}li half a mile to the weft of the hoafe of Clyne, and a quarter ot a mile to the north of (he poft road, is a remarkable piece of antiquity, which plainly appears to have been ereftcd by the Druids, and ufed by them as a place of facred worfliip. It confifts of a fmglc row of twelve large ftones, placed upright, and \o dUpoled as to form two ovals, which are joined to each other. 1 he jCrcas of thcfe ovals are equal j they arc 1 3 feet from eaft to • weft> and 10 feet in the middle from north to iouth. At the weft end of oqc pf tbem 19 ^ fione, which rifes 8 feet above the
furfac
Ibrtace of the earth ; the other ftones are from 4X06 %t long. There is alio, in the middle of this ovad, a flat ftone, which was probably the altars it ftems to have ftood ior- inerly at the eaft end, bat has been throws down by fome accident. Diftant aHout 3 paces from the eaflem owil is a circular hotlowi faid to have been a well of a confideraUe depth) but it i« now filled up; its diameter at top is 8 feet. Thefe ovals arc fituatcd on the top of an eminence, round which are marked out three concentric circles \ one at the bot« torn, another 28 paces above the forma*, and the third i a paces higher, immediately furrounding the ovals. The circuaifi> rence of the firft is 80, of ^hc iecond 50, and of the third, or higheft circki 35 paces. It is obfervable, that thefe cu- rious remains have a great refemhlance to many others in dif- ferent places of Great Britaini particularly to thofe in the pa» rid) of Addingtoa, near Mailing in Kent, (an account of which |s given by Mr Colebrooke in the Archaeolo^ia, voL il. page 107.), and the celebrated ones at Stonehenge in Wiltihirc *• Large conical heaps of flones, or cairns> as they are called, are to be met with on the tops of many of the hills and emi«. nencesi in the pari(h. About 800 paces to the weft of the above ruin is a circular cairn, in diameter about 30 paces, containmg» in the center, a grave 3 feet 6 inches long, 18 inches broad, and 14 inches deep, neatly lined with four flat ftones, and covered by another. There are aifo at the circumference three graves of the fame dimenfions, on the eaftysfouth, and weft, but they are in a nK>re ruinous condi- tion than the central one. It is probable that thefe were the fepulchrcs of a certain family or tribe i the chief was buried
• In order to make the above defcription more eafily uoder« ftood, yn Robertfcuj fubjoined a ftcetch of the form anu fima* tion of. f-fle itoiies ; «na the Fdiior is forty that the plan of ^hi& vrork would not fuffer an engraving of it to be made.
tfKUieam. ' «$}
in tlie center, and Vts relative:* or dependents at certsnn di- ftsuices around him. But -we fliaU be at a lofs to account for the fmaltnefs of thefe graves, unleis we fuppofe theoi to have' contained only the a(hes or bowels of the deceafed perfon^ Thefe, it b likely, were depofited in earthen pitchers or vafes, as feveral vefieis of that kind have been dug up by the plough' in the neighbourhood of thefe cairns. There is alio on the north fide of the river hkiack, and nearly oppoiite to the village of Uruounond, a grave of an oblong form, Imed with ftone in the fame manner as thofe above defcribed \ it is call* cd the Prieft's Sepulchre, and is 7 feet long, 3 broad, and about 3 1 deep. It is evident from thefe remains, and many others of a limilar nature, which abound in almoft every part of the Highlands of Scotland, that it was the cuftom of our anccftors to cover their burying places with heaps of ftones \ and the reafon probably was, to prever^ he bodies from be- ing dug up, and devoured by the wolves, wild boars, and other beafts of prey, which then infefted the country *. There are ruins of five different chapels and burying places m this pariih, viz. one at Balcony, called St Ninian's Chapel, one at Culaaficeath, one at Wefter Fowlis, one at Kilchoan, and one at Limlair, near the iea Ihore, called St Mary's Cha«, pel. Several families continue ftill to bury at the lall named church-yardj and there are fome veitiges of the maole, or. minifter's houfe, contiguous to it. The lad incumbent's name was Mr Henry Kmcaid, who feems to have lived about the beginning of the laft century ; for it appears from fome records that he diipofed of certain teinds to the Baron of Fowlis ill 1607,
The
• « IM! add a ftone to your eaim," was formerly a provcr-' blal czprcifibn of friendfhip among the Highlanders.
9f4 Statijiieal Aammi
The natural curiofiij that chicfl? dt:fer?et ootice is the cock called Craig- t^rande, or the uf if rocL This is a^ deep ^^Im or abyls, formed by two oppofite precipices that rife per^'cndicularly to a great height, through which the Ault« f nude runs for the fpace of 2 miles* It begins at the di- fiance of 4 miles from the f ea, by a bold projeAion into the channel^ot the river, which it diminifhes in breadth by at le^ one half. The rivrr continues to run with rapid iry for about three quarters of a mile^ when it is confined by a fudden jut- ting out of the rock. Here, the fide view from the fumaiit is very ftriking. The courfe of the Hream oeing thus im« peded, it whirls and foams, and beats with violence agamft the opposing rock, till, colle£^ing ftrengrh, it ihoots up per- pendicularly with great fury, and, forcing its way, darts with the fwiftnefs of an arrow through the winding ^.xff^^t: on the other fide. After puffing this obftruftion, it becomes in many places invifible, owmg partly to the mcreadng depth and narrowiielN of the chafm, and partly to th^ view bring int' rcc^)teJ by the nuuierous branches ot trees which grow OP »Mf fi fide of the precipice. About a quarter rf a uiilc far- tli r down, the co ntry people have thrown a flight bridge, com poled of tru ks of trees covered with turf, over the rock, wh le rhc *halin is about 16 ket wide. Here the oWcrvcr, 0 he has inrrepJity nough to venture himfelf on fuch a rot- tcring fapport, and can look down on the gulph bciow with- out any nnealy (enfations, will be gratified with a view equal* ly awful and aftoniflimg^ The wildnefs of the fteep and rug- ged rocks ; the gloouiy horror of the clifls and caverns, " in- *< acccffible by mortaf! trod,** and where the gepial rays of the fun never yet penetrated ; the water falls which arc heard pouring down in diflTerent places of the precipice,, with founds Tarious in proportion to their diftance ; the hoarfe and hol- Imt murmuring of the dvcr, which runs at the depth of near
iflCiiteanZ >9^
130 ftct below the Turfice of the earth ; the fine groves of pines, which maj^ftkallj climb the fides of a brautiful cjni* Hence, that riibs immediately from the brink ot the chafm ; all thefe oHjeAs cannot be contemplated without exciting emotions ot wonder add admiration in the mind of every be- holden. The appearance of this fingolar and piAurclqae fcene, will naturally bring to the recollection of the chffical fpefhitor thofe beautiful lines of Virgil, in which he dclcnbee the gulph» through which his AlcAo (hoots herfclf into the infernal regions:
* denfis hunc frondibus atrum
Urget utrtmque larus nemoris. medioque firagoflis *
Dat fonltum faxis et torto vortice torrens.
Hie fpecus horrendum, et faevi fpiracula Ditis
Monftrantur ; ruptoque ingens Acheronte vorago
Peftiferas aperit fauces ; *
Critics may labour to convey the force and meaning of the author's words ; and travellers may, by their ingenious de* fcriptioiis, give us a ft U more Uvelj idea of their beauty and propriety } but he who would fee a living- commentary on this noble paflage, muft vifit the rock of Aultgrande There is alfo a moft delightful ride from the church of Kiltearn to ArduUie by the fea fide, which is only fordable at low wa- ' ter. Here the traveller has the fea on the one hand, and z fine view of Ferntofli on the.oppofite fide of the bay. Oa the other hand there is a bank covered with various trees and fhrubs. as oak, beech, larix, fpruce fir ; and about half Way there is a perpendicular rock, about 30 feet high, alfo covered with fhrubbery. Here there is a natural cafcade, or full of water, and clofe to the fall an artificial grove, and feat, planted around with flowcrsj and fome ornaments fixed hi
the
the face of the rock ; all whieh is very gratifying to anj . who takes a forenoon's ride for idcafare. But, as the fine plantations contribute fo much to the beauty of thb pariih, tre cannot SToid taking notice of it as a remarkable events greatly to be regretted, that, upon the 1 7th day of /anmry 1 79 1, the high wind bri>ke down, and tore up by the roots, about 6000 fine firs in the different plantations upon the cftate of Fowlis. We mud not omit to take notice of a place caB* ed Corrivackie, which is fo fituated behind the great hill of Uaidi, that the fun does not flune there from November ta the beginning of March.
Churcb.'^li has never been afcertained beyond a doubt who is patron of this parifh. The only claimants are, the Crown, and the family of Fowlis. All the minifters from the Revolution, down to 1770, were fettled by a call from tile heritors. The prefent incumbent, and hif predeceflbr, were fettled by royal prefentations. Mr Harry Robertfon vras tranflated from Qyne to Kilteam the yth May 1 776. He has been married fince 1772, and has 8 children now living, 4 fons and 4 daughters. The church of this parifli was handfomely rebuilt in 1 790, at the cxpence of L. 700 Ster- ling. The manfe and offices were built in 1762. at a verj moderate expcnce. They require iome repairs ; and there is no doubt that they will Toon be made comfortable. The fii- pend confids of 136 bolls, half oat-meal, and half barley, and L. 32 Sterling, with a glebe of 4 acres arable ground, with* out any gra(s.
Eminent Afw.— Though every age, and every foil, does not produce men of eminent talents, it cannot be denied that Kiltcarn has given birth to fcveral who have done honour to their native country. The Munros have diftinguiflied th *m-
felves
of Kilteam. 297
felvcsj at diflfercnt periods, by their martial fpirit and warlike atchievements. This circumftaoce is taken notice of by Bu« cbanan, in the 17th book of his Hiftory, where, after fpeak« ing of the difficulties in which Mary Queen of Scots was in« volved at Invernefs, he adds, << That, as foon as they heard «« of their Sovereign's danger, a great number of the anticnt^ '* Scots poured in around her, efpecially the Frafers and << Munros, whicii (fays be) were cfte<?mcd among the mod «< valiant of the clans inhabiting thofe countries/' And, in the war carried on by Guftavus Adolphus, Eang of Swe* den, againft the Emperor Ferdinand II. there were fo ma- ny of the name of Munro, that, among the officers of that name who ferved in that war, there were 3 generals, 8 colonels, 5 lieutenant-colonels, 1 1 majors, and above 30 captains, befides a great number of fubalterns. Many of them gained great reputation in this war, particularly their chiefji Robert Munro, the aiH: Baron of Fowlis, who fo diftinguifh- cd himfelf by his military conduA, that he was made colonel of two regiments at the fame time, one of foot^ and another of horfe. It is not neceiTary, on this occaiion, to enumerate the feveral illuftrious characters that fprung from the houfe of Fowlis, as this has already employed the pen of a very learned and pious writer *• But, it would be unpardonable to omit mentioning the late Sir Robert Munro, who was kill- ed at the battle of Falkirk on the 17th January 1746. There are flill many living witneilcs to atteft how great an orna- ipcnt he was to his name and to his country. His conduft at the battle of Fontenoy was heard with juft applaufe through all Great Britain; and there is 0ill extant a copy of a let- VoL. l! Pp ' ter
^ Vide an account of" the antient family of the Munros of FowHs, ia the appendix to the Life of Colonel Gardiner, by the late pjr Doddridge.
dpS Statifiical Jccount
ter from the ElcAor Palatioe to his . envoy at London, dc- ilring him to thank the King of Great Britain, in his namci for the excellent behaviour of the Highland regiment, while they were in his territories! << which, (as he fays exprefsly) i( was owing to the care of Sir Robert Munro, their licute- << nant-colooel \ for whofe fake (he adds) he ihould always << pay a regard to a Scotfman for the future.'^ Sir Harry MunrOi fon to Sir Robert jud mehtioneJ, was'highly dtfiin- guifhed in another line, as a fcholar of the firft rank. In clailical learning he was an uncommon proficient. H= lild the foundation of his learning at Weftminder fchool, and perfected it at the univcrfity of Lcydcn. He employed his leifure hours, for near 20 years, in writing a large critical ivork upon Buchanan's Ffalms, which he tinilhed/ and left completely prepared for the prcfs. This work he fubmittcd to the review of ^e late learned Mr Thomas Ruddiman, who gave his approbation of it, and paid the higheft compliments to the claflical knowledge and critical abilities of Sir Harry; which appears by a h6lograph letter of Mr Ruddiman's^ ftiil extant in the library at Fowlis. Sir Harry having gone to Edinburgh for the recovery of his health, died there on xhz 1 2th June 1781. Some divines have alfo flouriOied In Kil- Ccarn that would do honour to any parifli ; but we (hall only mention two. The firft is Mr Donald Munro. This emi- nent man, cotemporary with the celebrated Buchanany was defcendcd of the family of Coul, a branch of the Munro'>. He was firft. Archdeacon of the Ifles, and gave Buchanan a defcription of them, which he acknowledges in his Hiftory : He was afterwards appointed fuperintendant of Rofi, and parfon of Kiltearn. The other is Mr Thomas Hog, who was fettled minifter at Kiltearn in 1655, but was turned oot at the reftoration to make way for an Epifcopal minifter. He fuffered much perfecution, bdng long imprUbned in the Bafi:
When
of Kiltearn. ag^
When he obtained his liberty he retired to Holland, where he was highly efteemed for his learning and piety. There is a pamphlet publiflied, containing memoirs of his life, and many remarkable anecdotes of him. There are feveral £i^ well attefied, which indicate that he had a remarkable prefenti- ment of future events refpeAing the Church in general, and Himfelf in particular. Even at a period when, to all human appearance, it was moft unlikely, and when he was obliged to fly from his country and charge, he foretold, whh the inoft aflured confidence, that there would be fuch a revolu* ' tion as happened afterwards, and that he Oxonld return to his charge at Kiltearn, and be buried there \ which accordingly turned out as he had faid. And, in confident ion of his emi« neot worth, and great fufferings. King William was pleafed to appoint him one of his Chaplains for Scotland } but he died very foon after his appointment, at Kiltearn, in 1692, and is buried at the entry to the fouth-weft door of the church. Some perfon, out of refpeA for his memory, and zealous to exprels the fenie he had of Mr Hogg's uncommon worth, caufed the following fingular infcription to be put on his grave-fione : <<Thi8 ftooe will witnefs againft the pa- ce liibtoners of Kiltearn, if ever they bring in an ungodly «« minifter here.** But, while we pay the juft tribute of praife to thofe whofe ftations and advantages of education enabled them to diftinguifli themfelves in the world, it would be un« juft to overlook thofe bloflbms of genius that flioot forth in the humble walks of life. Here, a watchmaker in this parifh naturally occurs to our view. This man (now about 30 years of age) was bom and brought up in the Highland diftri£l of this parifli, and, although he never faw a watch or clock till he was grown up to manhood, yet, by mere intuition, has made feveral clocks of coarfe materials, which go well. He only wants a little inftru£Uon and ai&ftance to make a figure
in
30# Stafffiual Account
in his line. It b a pity that he can neither read nor writCf and hardly fpeaks Englifh. There is alfo a fchooUbo^^ about 1 6 years of age, who difcovers a good tafte for drawings azid promifes to arrive at fome eminence in that artj if his genius was properly cultivated : As he is of a weak conftitution^ he is not fit for any hard labour. Such inftances of genius, who want the advantages of education, are frequently to be met with in the world, and naturally fuggeft to the feeling heart that thought which Mr Gray Co beautifully e^n-efles in his Elegy:
<« Perhaps, in this negleAed fpot, is laid
« Some heart once pregnant with celeftial fire ;
<< Hands, that the rod of empire might have fway'd,
<« Or wak'd to ecftacy the living lyre :
« But knowledge to their eyes her ample page,
«< Rich vrith the fpoils of time, did ne'er unrol^
<< Chill penury repreiTd their noble rage,
** And firoze the genial current of the fouL''
NUM.
^ Mefay, j^oii
NUMBER XXXI. PARISH OF ROTPESAY.
t
By the Rev. Mr Archibald M<Lba.
Name, Situation^ Extent.
THE antient Gaelic and patronimic name of the parHh is Cilla*bbnilc. The modern^ and perhaps the antient name^ by which it was generally known, by thofe particularly who do not fpeak the Gaelic language, is Rothefay. The meaning of Cilla'bhruic is. The church dedicated to St Broke, of which he is the tutelar faint. There is a yearly fair held in the town of Rothefay, called Feil-bhruic, or St Broke's fair. The etymology of Rothefay is not fully afcertained* Some fuppofe it Oani{h. If it is of Gaelic original, the mod: natural and probable etymology of it is, Riogh«Suidhe, that is. The King's feat, perhaps from there being an old caftle in it, called the Caftle of Rothefay, fometimes the refidtnce of certain of the Elings of Scotland. By thofe who fpeak the Gaelic language, the parifh is always called Cilla'bhruic, or Sgireachd Bhruic, that is, St Broke's parifh. And the town of Rothefay is called Bailea Mhoide, or, The town where the court of jufiice is held. The ifland of Bute itfdf is called, in that language. Oilcan a' Mhoide, or. The ifland where the court of juftice fits. The parifh is fituated in the ifland and county gf Bute. From the reformation to the year
1639,
' y>z' Statiftical Account
1639, while prefbytery was the eftablifhd fonn of choxxh government! the parilh of Rothefay was within the preibj- tery of Irvine or Ciininghame, and fynod of Glafgow and Air. In the year 16399 it was disjoined from that prefbytery and fynod, and annexed to the Prefbytery of Denood, and (ynod of Argyky to which it ftill continues txnited. In the time of £pifcopacy» it was within the diocefe of the Ifles ; and, by the aA of parliament in itity, appointing the chapter of the Bifhop of the Ifles, the Parfon of Rothefay was made Sub- dean of the Ifles. The parifli may be about ten miles long, and from three to four broad. I
Pcptdation.-^^Thett is no particuhr account of the antiect ihte of the population of the parifli ; but, fit>m the nambcr of ruinous and wafte houies which were in the town of Rothefay, it would appear to have been pretty populous^ and of feme note at an early period. About the year 1762* fome of thefe ruins were begun to be rebuilt \ and, fince that pe- riod, the town has been gradually increafing fo much, that, not only the former ruinous houfes have been ail re-builr, but a number of new ftreets bud out and finiflied.
Number of fouls m the parifli of Rothefay the following yean, diftinguifliing the number refiding in the country, and the number refiding within the territory of the town of Rothefay, taken from the Examination Roll of each year.
Yeart. Goantry. Town. Toul« Tctrt. Countty. Town. Tocal*
1766 1500 1158 2658 1771 1677 141 1 3088
1767 I510 1 181 2691 1772 1609 1387 299^
1768 1597 1254 2851' 1773 1626 1352 2978
1769 1667 1326 2993 1774 1628 1343 2971 2770 1661 1470 3131 1775 idotf 1359 2965
tfRabefajf 303.
Yeari. CMOtry. Town. TouL Tean» Conntry. Town. Tdl^tf
1776 1628 1400 3028 1784 1411 1983 34Q4>
»777 I5S4 ^387 294X 1785 1424 ac8o aj^T
1778 1563 1525 3q88 1786 1430 21 8« 36^0
1779 1566 1601 3167 1787 1406 2993 3699-
1780 J 592 1669 3261 1788 1436 2336 3771I:
1781 1543 1701 3244 1789 143a ^441 387» J782 1515 1807 3322 1790 14^5 2607 4oj» 1783 1485 1904 3389
/'♦t
Number pf the marriages ftnd toptifau in the parifli pf - Rothe£iy ^n <be foUowiqgyean*
|
Mar. |
Bap. |
Mar. |
Bap. |
||
|
1692 |
. ai |
5' |
l.74o' |
.16 |
JKJ -) |
|
1790 |
»5 |
49 . |
177® |
»5 |
t^O .s |
|
1710 |
11 |
43 |
1780 |
30 |
9<J:.. |
|
1720 |
»9 |
7» |
1790 |
4a |
"4 -. |
|
1730 |
17 |
«7 |
— - |
||
|
1740 |
. lO |
8a |
. |
aop |
825 ; |
|
1750 |
24 |
80 |
The regifter for baptifms and marriage^ but not of deaths^ have been pretty 4iftinfU7 kept in this parifh fipce i69i» nntil thefe rcgifters were taxed^ within thefe few. years9 by a£l of parliament. As an objpft of taxation^ it nmft turn to little account. As an objeft of poUcct. attention to thef^ regifters might become of confideraUe importance to the ftate. Were the prefent tax given ta the kirk*feffionpclerkf as a fabuy for keeping the regiftert of baptifms, marriages, and burials, in each pari£b, in a regu^ lar diftinft manner^ and for making out yearly^ at a partico-* lar tCTOt 4 fqU c«tnift of eacfaf to be cqrtififid I7 the i^
of
ioi Statlftlcal Account
€ttht parHhi as*a true and cza£l copy ; or by three dJers in dife of a va^incy i together with an- authentic account of the ittimhcr of ibult in the pariflii made out in fuch manner a< might be found neiceflary ; and this extract and note of the number of fouls in the pariih to be lodged, upon a certain day, each year, in an office at Edinburgh, appointed for that por- pofe ; it would be a fource of valuable information, to which ncottrfe might be had, when found necefiary, with Iktic trouble. The caufe of the increafo of the population in the town of Rothefay, fince the year 1766, may be a cuftom- hbnfe eftabliihed there in 1765, the herring fi(hery, and a cotton fpinning mill, ercAed there about twelve or thirteen years ago.
Cbnrcb and Stipend, Cd'r.— The church was built about the year'itfpo, alid the manfe in 1757. The fttpend is about L* 80 Sterling, exclufive of the manfe and glebe. The Earl of Bot^ is patron. ^ There are four heritors in the coontry part of the parifli, and a number of .fmaH proprietors within the tWritory of the town. The number of poor perfons rc- ceiinng charity may be about 70. The amount of coUeflions and funds for their fupport is about L. 60.
Mifcellatiious Objervations. — ^The lanc[uage principally fpokcn in' the parifli is the Gaelic \ the names of the places fceni, in general, to be dcri^^ed from it. There is an old calVIe in the town df Rothefay i now a ruin, but formerly fometimcs th6 rtfideAce of the Kin^s of Scotland, and afterwards inha- bited by the family of^Butc, lierrtable conftables of* it, till it tfras'lmrftt^dUrfrig'tW tfoublcs'm 1685. The fuel ufed ih^'the cotmkry patt It the par'lfli' is peat, and fottic coal. Scarcely any rhlirtrg; init^ coi'l isr xffccl irt ttc town. It is ge- neratfy imported fWnf ^fefg^^ir si"^c« expenfe' The
price
price at flbippmg there is 3 s. 6d. a cart ; l)ut the river-dues, or tonnage ^uty, Sec, nearly double the prkc at Rothefay. The price of provifions, till vrithin thcfe twenty or twcniyi five years, was moderate •, but, during that period, has b»ert gradually rifing, and is now regulated, in a great meafure. by the Greenock market, otie of the dearefl in^ Scotland. The price of labour of all kinds, has advanced greatly within thcfe few years. A day labourer, about twenty years ago, could have been hired for 6 d 7 d. or 8 d a day ;-but now they re- quire I st'Vfrir 5. 6 d. The people arc induftrious. There is a cotton fpinning mill crcfteJ in the town of Rorliefay, vrhich employs about 300 hands, young and old. Many, both young and old, are aiib employed in fpinning, and in making and mending nets. The people are particularly fond of a a fea faring life. About thirty years ago, all the boats belonging to the parifli, except one or two half-decked barks of about fifteen tons for carrying coals, were open boats, like thofc commonly ulcd for eatching' herrings j having in generally in that employment four men, or at leaft three men and a boy ; and of thcfe there mi^ht be from a hundred to a hundred and twenty. But now, bcliaes, froui twelve to twenty of open boats, there may be between eighty and a hundred veflcls belonging to the pariih, from fifteen to one hundred tons burden.
During the laft war, there were a number of-fcamcn fiom the pariih in the navy fervice ;.and, had the prize-money due 10 them been properly accounted for, it is believed that* prcfs- warrants would have been unncccirury hc:re ; bur, as matters arc at prcfent managed, nothing but coiiipulfion will induce them to enter into the navy fervice. Many of them, to whom prize-money is due, can get no account of, ncr even iad out the agent in whole hands it is. Would it not an-
Vol.. U Qji iwcr
3o6 Statijlieat Accmil
;mrwer the purpoTes of governoieot equally vdl, were ds manageuicnt of prizes pul into the haods of the pay* office and goTernment become accountable for it, as well a& that wages ; ancli inQead of obligiag the feamen to tmjkj > gents and attornieSi at a great espence and riik, ought not the mfpedtor of the pay-office correfpond wi:b tbe mi- niftcrs of the diiFereat parilhes to which the feamen bdoogi (which he is e?en at prcfent fometixnes obliged to dQ)iaQdthe fituation and circumf^ances of each ieaman's right and daia being, hi tlie courie ol the correipoodcncej afcen^edi paj- ment migl^t be had at the neareft bank^ or sua order giTca upon the nearcit cuftoiphoule, without either riik or expeoce ? By adopting fome ineafure of this kind, the nunifters of the parilhes where there s|re fea- faring people would have mwh Ufs trouble than they frequently have by the prefcnt mode of maniage r^.enti and would at the fame time have the fatititaflion of feeing juftice done to a fet of brave fel- lows, who have riiked their liv^ in the fervice of their country.
The people enjoy, in a confiderable degree, ths comibrts and advantages of fociety, and icem contented with their iituation and circumftanpes.
The principal grievances under which the people labour, is the partial and oppreflive duty on coals, to which, from their fituation, they are fubjefted. Could this grievance be removed, either by freeing them from it altogether, or bf laying a very trifling general duty on coals at the pit, it would be a great relief to the people^ ^nd be a much more produ£Uve tax to government
It«
9f Roth^hy. ^07
tht peculiair advantages which the parifh haft, are the Aomber of fafe harbours and anchorages, vi2. The Buy of Rotlieraj and of Kaimesi the Keils of Bute^ and the Baj #f & Ninians,
HUM.
^oS Stati/lkdi Acewttt
NUMBER XXX[L PARISH OF KINGARTH.
By the Rrv. Mr James Thorbu&n.
Name ttnd Exttnt.
THIS parifli, fiuatcd in the ifland of Bute, has its name from fomc rugged rocks on the fouth end of it, »• gaiiifl whichi when the wind blows from the fouth, the waves of the fea beat with great violence. I» the origioal Gaclici it fignificsi < A bold furious head.' It is about fevca miles long from north to fouth, and, at an average, two miles broad from ead to wefl ; bounded by the pariOi of Rotfaefaj on the north and north-weft \ by the fea on the weft, caft, and fouth.
Surface^ Sw/» f^'r. — When viewed at a diftancc, the furfacc has a flat appearance, although there is a gradual afccnt from the eaft and weft fliorcd to the middle of the pari(h. There are a few little hills on the fouth part of it, but none of them remarkably high. There are fome plantations of fir trees, &c» i but the lai-gcft plantations are round the houfe of Mount Stu- art, tke feat of the Earl of Bute, where there are a great maDj fine trees of diSerent kinds. The houfe is elegant, aod is moft delightfully fituatcd, about 200 yards from the caft fhore, having a near view of all the fliipping of the Fnth of
Clvde
I
dj4e paffingap^ repaffing. Nearly, the whole of the parifh ia .inclof^d and fubdividcil with ditch- and hedge* which afford ifacitcr and warmth, and make an agreeable appearance. The ibU, in general, .is iight and fandy, fit (when properly culti- vatedi which it has been in fomc farms, but particularly about iVlount Siuartj, where fields have beeni and are (Idl cultivated to the highefl perfeAion), for crops of barky, turnip, ry^ grafs, and clover of every kind. Inclofed land is let, at an a« vcr^e, from. :%©:*. to 15 s. per acre ; outfield land irom 3 s. ^o 3 $• .6 d. pe.r.acrc Faros, a^. an average, from L. 30 tp J[y..6o per fai^,' Nearly the one- half of the rents arc paid by .barley} thc.othdr half by. oats and cattle. The te- nant^ ,fiad ^Tea4y./file for their barley to the diftillers of whilky ip the ifland. For fome years paft, the price of bar- Jlcy has l^een, at an average, from i3 s. to 20 s. per boli. Ihe .pyirilh likewiie produces oats. Perhaps too many are fown in this foil. Tfec.prke of oats, for Icven years paft, has been from 14 s. to 16 s. per boll. Largs is the only market town for oats. Potatoes are 'in great plenty j and thefe, with barings; art the cliicf maintenance of fhc frreateft number. of the inhabitants for three quarters of the year. .Clover and rye-grafs hay is fold to the inhabitants of Rothe- £ay at 4 s. and:5S. per trufs, equal to ij ftone En^liih. The. average price of oat-meal, for Icven years, has been from 16 sw to 18 s. per boll, 9 ftone weight in the bolU
CaitU.^Tht breed of horfes is much improved of late. .£very farmer has a cart or carts, according to the fize of his farm. About twenty years ago there were none in the pa- rilh, except at Mount Stuart, black cattle are not much im^ proved, owing to their fcanty feeding when young.
Poor^ — The poor are maintained by weekly colleftions.
3y
^lo StaHJtUal Acmtni
By ad of the kirk*leffioD, every one who Is admitted to %e a conftant penfioner muft fign a difpofition of his eficAs (if a» cy, at his or her deceafc), to the kirk-feffion, to be grren to the furviiung poor. Since the year 1782, we have few or rather no beggars. By the beneficence of the Earl of Bote^ and by other charitable donations, they have not been fo no* ceffitous as they were before the year 1782.
Strvants^ — Their vrages are advanced of late more than a third. Men^fervants wages are from L. 6 to L. 8 permmums women- fervants wages are from JU 3 to L. 4 per ammtmi day-labourers have in winter from 6 d. to 8 d. a day, with their maintenance } in fpring and fummer from 8 d. to 10 d ; in harveft, women hired by the day have 8 d. a day, and their dinner ; if hired for the whole time of harveft, from 1 6 s. to 18 s. and their maintenance. There are no meiv reapers \ the corn Is all cat down by women \ and the men tie the iheavcs and ftook them.
Fifi and game.'^Thert are fi(h of almoft every kmd on each fide of the parifh i but the natives never 6th for any kind, excepting herrings. Of thefe they are unconmumly fond, which prevents them from trying to catch others. In the fpring, when they are not employed at the herring, fifhery, would they apply themfelves to the catching <tf cod and haddocks, &c. they would furely be gainers. Fi(b of the above kinds are taken by north country ftroUIng fiihermctty and loia at high prices. Hares, partridges, and fnipcsy are in plenty. There are likcwifc green and grey plovers ; fome wnters a great many woodcocks, abundance of ducks and ted, with other fea-fowl, which are common to the weftem fhorca •f Scotland.
CUmate.
rf Kingarib. 31 k
gSmaii —This parilhi though damp. Is mild and tempe* rate, and very healthy, owing probably to the faline particle impregnating the air, and the dry Tandy foil of the parifli. There are no epidemical difeafes in the parifli. 1 he only difiemper is the rheumatifm i but it is not frequent. There are many inftances of longevity in the parifh. Three mea died this winteri one 94, each of the other two 84 years •Id.
Language and Chara8ir. — Mod of the natives fpeak £ngli(h wery well ; although, in converfing with one another, they leem to be fond of the Gaelic, their mother tongue, which chiefly prevails among the old people, and may have been an liindrancc to the more eafy and more ready introduction of pew methods of improvements in the parifh. They are a fo- ber, peaceable, and charitable people.
J^atrcn, Heritori^ and Stipend, b'r. The Earl of Bute if patron, and almoft fole proprietor of the pariih. There are only fi>ur heritors of fmall property, not amounting to L. 200 fer annum. The (tipend confifts of 78 bolls of viClual^ half meal, half barley ; the meal at 9 (tone weight per boli, the barley 4 firlots per boUj L, 36 : 15 : 4 Sterling of money, with a manfe and glebe. The manfe and olfice-houfes were aU new built in 1 769, There are three churches in the pa- rifh. One of them is built near the fouth end, between the year 1000 and 1 loo. It is now almoft in ruins. The other two are in pretty good repair, particularly the one on the fhore near Mount Stuart Houfe. Worfliip is only performed in it when any of the family are there. The other kirk is the ordinary place of worfhip, named the Mid-Kirk, being inofe centrical for the inhabitants.
Schcoli.
2 1 2 Statijiical Account
Sihools. — ^Thcrc arc at prcicnt three fchools. ift, A ^a« rifli ichool, the falary L. 6 Sterling ; 2d, a Ichool, endowed and iupportcd by tht focicty for propagating Chriftian know- ledge, falary only L. 6 per annum, z free houfc, kdc-yard, and a cow, maintained fummer and winter by the diftnth It is fituatcd on the north-weft fide of the parifli, where young children are too far from the parochial fchool. The 3d is in the north weft quarter of the parifti i and the teacher is paid by the inhabitants of that quarter.
jtntiquitiis.— On the fouth-wcft part of the pariih, on a little rocky hill, there arc evident vcftigcs of a vitrified wall, faid to be a Danifli fort ; but it feems more probable that it was made by the inhabitants to defend the ifland from the attacks of the Danes and Norwegians. 1 he hill, in the ori* gina)« fignifies, < Ihe hill of the Lowland men.' On a plain piece of ground, at a little diftance from the the Mid* Kirk, there are evident remains of a Uruidical temple, three large ftones of which are ftill ftanding. It had been for- rom^dcd w.th wood. There are large trunks of oak-trees it a morafs, not above aoo yards from the temple.
|
MarriageSf |
Births t and Burials. |
||
|
Abftraft for fcven years. |
|||
|
Marriages.^ Birth; |
u |
Buriafs. |
|
|
Males; Females. |
M^les, Females |
||
|
From 1784 to 1785 |
13 16 |
13 |
■ 7 5 |
|
From 1785 to 1786 |
9 M |
'J |
4 1 |
|
From 1786 to 1787 |
12 \6 |
>3 |
7 6 |
|
From 1787 to 1788 |
10 12 |
11 |
10 6 |
|
From 1788 to 1789 |
10 13 |
10 |
6 4 |
|
From 1789 to 1790 |
11 13 |
^7 |
3 2 |
|
From 1790 to 1791 |
16 11 |
9 |
5 3 Bj |
B7 a lift tak^ 10 March 1791^ the number of the inha- bitanrs is 7.27. t hey h^ve decrcafed 230 within thefe fifteen years. The reafon is, that the town of Rotheiay finds em* plojiuent for day labourers, and other workmen, and affords, them higher .wa^es than they can receive m a ..covQtry pa* lifh. The population, according to Dr W^bfier^ wa$ ^70 fook.
Advantages and Di/advantagHm^There is a readf fale for every kjiid of ^jroduce, either at Roc.efay, Greenock^ or the Largs. 1 here are two packets every week from Kothefay, and a ferry* boat once every week from Scouiay, near Mount Stuart, to the Largs. Few of the inhabitants export their own commodities ; buyers come to the iiland, and are at the expence of ferrying them over to the other fide. The difad* ▼amages are, ifl. Want of coal. Trials have been often made to find coal, and within this five years by Lord Mount Stuart (ending men IkiUcd in that employment from New- caitle i but unfortunately all their trials were ineffedtual. The pariih abounds with limeltone , and, if a good ieam of coal could be foundy the ifland would be the wealthieft in the kingdom. Pofiibly that may yet be effcdtcd, if farther triab were made. 2dly, l*he fanners being employed the moft part of the fummer in cafting and leading peats, cannot pro- vide manure for their farms, the fummer leaion being the fittefl for that purpole ; but what for fome years pail appears to be the greatelt difauvantagc to the farming intereft oi the parifb is the bounty to the bufs-fifliing, which is carried on to a great extent in Rotheiay. Few farmer's fons are bred to farming. To purchafe a fmall (hare in a herring bufs^ and become mafter of it, feems to be their great ambition It is a h£kf that all the young men of the pariOi engage in the herring fifhery ; and| when once engaged| though they have
Vol.. If R r M
}I4 Staii/ficat AccAag
tn opportunity of working in the farming line all fpringt and receiving good wages, fi:w or none are willing to work. This has formerly juftly raifed a complaint among the farmers, and at prefent their greateft. Might not go- veTTimtnt fuipcnd the bounty for two or three yean m ordor ^ try iU tiietts I
NUM.
4fIk^/lmaimuiKittattam §15
NUMBER XXXIII.
VNITED PARISHES OF HOUSTOUI? AND KILLALLAN.
Sf tie Rev. Mr John MoMTBATfi^
HOITSTOUN and Killallan were originally fcparate pi^ rifheSy but lo intermixed, with relpeA to their local firuatjon, that the people in one quarter of Killallan were obli- ged, if they kept the high road, to travel every Sunday clofe by the gate of Houftoun kirk, to attend public worlhip at Kill- allan, near two Lngl.ih miles up the country } aiid anothex' quarter to travel acrois the middle of Houfldun parifh, td Killallan, for the fame purpofe. This inconvenient fituatiofll of the pariflies made it neeeflary for both to join together ifl the celebratioti of the Lord's Supper, and to obferve all thd holidays ufuai on that occaGon. Both parishes being fmally and the examinable perfons in both fcarcely amounting td 609 i the ftipends not a fufficient provifton for the mihifteri in fuch an expenfive part of the country, the one valued at 900, the other at iooomet*ks; the teinds exhaufted^ no augmentation could therefore be obtained. From tiiefc conii- derations, the patrons and heritors of both parlQies, with conlent of the prefbytery, agreed to petition the Lords Cool- iniffionen appointed for plantation of kirks^ &e* to have thenft
«niM4
ji $ Stotifiiccj AccfnM
united into one parilh, to be called the United Fariflies of Houftoun and Killallan. The Lords gave a decreet for that purpofe in the year 1 76a, with this provifion, that the then incumbents (hould enjoy their ftipendsi manles, and glebes, and exercife their padoral office in their refpedive pariihes, tilt the death, tranrportation, or deprivation, of the one of them ; and the patrons to exercife the right of prefenting in a vacancy by turns ; and ordained the kirk at Houftoun to be the only kirk of the united parilhes in future.
Origin of the Names. — Killallan, or Killellen, according to an infcription on the kirk bell, feems to be a corruption of Killfillan, i e dlla FiUam^ the tutelar faint of the parifli. There is a large Aone a little didant from the kirk, with a hollow in the middle, called Fillan*s Seat ; a little £tfthcr, • fpring well, called Fiilan's Well, iffiiing from onder a rock, (haded with buihes hanging over it, to which, it h reported, that the country women ufed to bring their weak and ricfcet- ty children, and bathe them in the water, leaving fome pieoo of cloth as a prefent, or offering, to the Saint, on the bathes. This cuflom continued till about the end of the laft century, when one Mr Hutchefon, who was then mlnifter, catt(ed the well to be filled with ftones. There is a fair held in the month of January, called Fillan's Fair, and Fillan's Day. The font (lone for holding the holy water, in times of Popery, fiood long without the quire door, after the re£Mriiiation» but is now built la the church* yard wall.
«
Houftoun, in antient times, was called Hilpeter, i. e, Cdla Pttn^ the tutelary faint. There is a well at a little diftance, to the north, weft of the church, called St Peter's Wcllj it is covered with a wall of cut free-ftone, arched in the roof, from which flows a pkntiful fiream of excellent watery and
a
^ lloujfoun and Killallaru 317
a ftream oF water pafling hard by is cuiied Peter's Burn. There is a fair held in the month of July in the village^ call- ed Peter's Day Houfloun, the more modern name of the pariih, may be fuppofed to be a corruption of HewN town^ perhaps from Hugo de Padfinan, wlio is faid by Mr Craw* fiird» in his Hiftory of Rei ifrewfliirei to have obtained a grant of the barony of Kilpeter from Baldwin of Biggar, fhrriffof Lanark in the reign of Malcolm IV When families began to afTuiue (irnames from their hereditary latids and baronies, his defcendants may be iuppofed to have afllime^ the name of Hrw^ town ; and, in proceis of time, might be changed Into Houftoun Une oi Hugo de Padvinan's fucceflbrs, who lived in the reign of King Alexander 11 L is called, in an an* f lent charter* Sir Finlay de Houl^oun ; which iimame con* tinned in the family for fevcral hundred years. We are alfo informed by Mr Crawfurd, that Patrick, one of Hugh de Padvinan's fucceiTors, obtained the honour of knighthood from James V. of Scotland ; perhaps a renewal and confir* mat ion of a tormer grant of that honour to his predeccflbrs. The barony of Houftoun comprehends the whole panlli of Houftuun, and a fmall part ot Kilialian. Before the union of the two parifhes, there was not a lingle feuer m the parifli and barony of Houftoun. About 50 years ago» it was (old to Sir John hchaw of Greenock; and ioon after, by him, to Sir James Campbell from Jamaica ; and by his heirs to Go» wernour Macrae. It has been in the poftcflion of feveral ^pro- prietors iince it went out of the Houftoun family, and is now the property of Archibald Speirs, Efq; of ElJerflie. The preient barony officer, a man near 80, iayiS) he remembers to have feen 14 lairds or proprietors of Houftoun.
Situation and Extent. — ^The iituation of the united pariftief ^f Houftoun and Killallan is in the ihire of Renfrew, origi- nally
3i8 Staiiftkal AcMM
Dally called Sfrattigryfei from one of its principal riiren 1 They are bounded on the weft by Kilmalcolm ; ou tl^e louth by Kilbarchan ; on tiic north and caft by the pariCh of £r« ikine, which fcparates it from Clyde. It is about 6 EngUfli miles long ; about 3 miles broad ; and > miles diftaot from Paiflcfy, which is the puibyterv feat. The church of HouA toun is about 9 Scots ntilt-s weft of Glafgow^ 6 from Port- Glafgowi and 8 from Greenock.
The only cunfiderable river is Gryfe, which fcparates it from Kilbarchan on ttie fouth. This river hath its (burce ia the high moors and mountains that are fituated between KJ- malcohn and the L.irgs, on the coalt of the Firth of Clyde It is compoted of ievcral ftrcamsi which unite near the man- iion-houie of Duchai. it runs rapiUly, over fevcrai precipices^ lo the low country at Fullwood, where it meets the tide \ af- ter which it moves flowly, in a ierpentine courie» reccivhig the river Black Cart at Mofs WalkinOiaw, and White Cart at Inchinnan bridge, and thence into Clyde, a mile below Renfrew. In this river there is trout, moft plenty towards the high moors ; in the lower part pike and perch j and, with the firft flood in June or July, (4 non come up the river from Clyde, and ftill more with floods in Ai^uft, and coottaue ia Ihe river till fpawning time is over,
Surfaa and Sotl-^Xn the upper part of the united pftriihe% Ihe ibii is generally thin and dry,ftie furface is unevenly mix* ed with many whm rocks in the hlgh<rft parts, and much of it is covered with (hort heuh and bentgrafs, moft 6t for paf- •urtng fhccp. rhe foil i^ better as it defcends toward the low country, which is a large plam, of great extent, fro the nia-iion-houfe of Barochan and Houftoun, to Glafgow and Hamilton i and in breadth^ from Paifleyi and the foot of
Nielfiooi^
^ Itoufioun and Kiltattan. 319
Kielftotin parifh, on the ibuth, to the braes and hills of Kil- Patrick en the north. The foil in the plain is generally goodj part day, part loam, or mixed, and the rents high* The manfibn-houfe of Barochaa ftands on a fireeftone rock^ and Hoaftoun on a whin rock, about one Enghfh niile from each other, and both almoin on the verge of the plain. There is a large mof& in the plain, not far from Barochan, of many hundred acre^^ from which the country ail around get peats lor fueL
jHr and Clinuai^^^Thc air in the upper parts of Houftoun nd KiDallan is (harp in winter ; the (now covering the ground when thertf is fcarce anyi at Houflonn and Barochan, and none in the plain -below ; and the harveft is often above a week earlier at Barochan, Houftoun, and along Gryfe to Duchal and KihnaicOim, than in any other part of the aeigh- bouring country.
Wood and P/antwg.^^There is a large natural wood at Houftoun, con(ifting of oak, alder, birchi willow, and fome afli ; belides a great quantity of old planted timber about the snaoGon-houie, confiding of elms, |>lanes, a(h, limes, and fqme oaks ; many of which have been lately cut down and fo\il at a 'good price There is aUb a confiderable natural wood atBarochan, and another at Boghall, a fmall barony on the north fide of the paf i(h« the property of B<)yd Alex* ander, Efq; of South Birr, and was once the (eat of another family of che name of Fleming. I'here ifi alto a great quan* tity of planting about the manfion hou(e of fiajrochan, con* fitting of a(h| plane, oak, larch, and fir,
Popuiation. — Population has lately decrf afed in the country part of the parilbi by the union of iinaU fitrms. About forty
years
S3«
Siati/Hcal Amount
years ago, there were i6 faruis in tne barony of FuUwood i th<?rc arc only 8 at prcfcnf. At thjt time, the yearly rent of that eAate was Utile abovr 3000 merks ; and, when Utc iy fold, the rental, by improvement on the land^ was L. 700
Sterling.
Upon a furvey lately made of ^he inhabitants of Hoaftoon and Kiliallan, they are as follow :> :
Families
Males ,
Fc.iiales
Uiuicr 15 .
Froni 1 5 to 70
Above 70
Scrvai.is
Sc^ jf-rs, Relief, 8cc.
i8j 510
361 •43
69
The whole males and female* amounting to 1034 perfons.
Marriages and births entered on the parifli tcgtfter for Al laft feven jears are as follows :
1784 1785 1786 1787 1788
1789 1790
ATerage
Marriages. 12 II II
»3
16
8
II
82
Btrthi. 26 27
22
3* 28
3«
26
188 «5J
tf Ihulhvn andKUhllan^ 321
*- It has not been cuftomary to keep a regifter of burials in the parifhes of Houftoun and Killallan.
The old Tillage of Houftoun was built near the churcrh and manfion-houfcy and confided of about 16 families. All the honfes in it belonged to . the proprietor. There was not a fen in the whole pariih. It was demolifhed when the New Town was built, as was fo'-merly obferved ; oqly one houfe and the fchoolhoufe being left (landing. In the new village are 35 hoofea, all built fince the year 1781^ inhabited by 57 f»-' miheSi which ha$ made a confiderable addition to the popula- cioli of the parifh Six of the houfes are two ftories high» and two of them flateu } many of them contain two families^ or one family and a (hop for looms. No houfes have fince been demoliflied of any conlcquence. About twelve years ago, the manfion- houfe on the ellate of FuUwood, which was a large, elegantf modern houfe, and made a fine appearance in the country, was demollbed by Mr 8peirs of Eldcrilie, af- ter be purchafed that eftate, and emailed it. He carried Tome of the beft of th^ materials to tris lioufe at King's Inch, and fold the remainder. This eilate was fomicrly the property of the Porterfields of Fullwood; cadets of the Duchal family* The new. village <if Houftoun is neatly built ; the front walls are of hewn ftooe from the mairfion^houfe and tower of Houftoun. There are five corn-mills in this ^riih| two lint and foiling- mills.
Tradet and ManufaBures -«-The principal trade in the vil« lage is weaving. I'here are 42 looms, moft of which are employed in weaving cotton, muflinSf lawns, and filk gaufe : There are alio a few carpenters, taylor<., and fhoemakers. Near the village, there js a large bleachfiiki belonging to Meflrs James and Thomas Carliflcrs from Paiflcy, whereon is whiten-
Vol. I. S f * ed
329 StoKJUcal Aceouat
cA about ;o,ooo fpindles of thread and prn, ind above joot pieces of muflin and 1 \wn yearly. This and tbe weaving b«^ iinefs caufrs a ccnliderable circulation of money in the vil- lage and nci^,hbourhood.
Church, Manfe, Glebe, and Stifends.^Thc kirk of Kilbllaa is (\ill (landing, and the roof is entire. 1 he heritors were ua> powered, by the decreet of annexation, to iell the aunte, which was a bad houfc* and the glebe, to enable them to boild a chiirch at Houftoun, fufficient to accommodate the inlubi- tanr<i of both parishes. Fhe new church of Houftoan was briiit in the year 1775 and can accommodate with feats i5t perfons befidc the pariftiioners, which is very convenient when the Sacrament of , the Lord's Supper is difpenied. The glebe at Houfl^ un is about fix acres of arable land, befides garilrn. houfe, and outhoufes. The an^nexcd ftipend amounts to 66 b(>lls of oat-meal, 14 bolls of barley, and L. 78 beer- ling, of old and new money ftipends. The greateft part of the money ftiprnds ariles from q2 bolls of x>at-roeal, con* verted by the decreet of at^exation at 10 merks per boO, being the ufual converfion at that time ; for which the heri« tors now receive 16 s. from the tenants ; which has turned out to be a confiderabte diminution of the ftipeods. Tliis was done by a petition from the heritors to the Losth, &c. with eonient of the pnibytery, becauie a great part of the united parllhes is more tit for pjfture than tiihge, and might in time be ufed for that purpofe. The above money ftipends c 'inprehend L 40 Scots for communion eles^ents. &fr Monteath, ordained Fcb» 1 748, is now paftor of the tmrtcd parilbcs« Mr Robert Carrick was lafl: mtnifter of Houftoun ^ pi-cvious to the annexation of the pariihes ; he was ordained in the year 1720 or 17219 and died May i» I77i»aged Sp years^ 10 months^ and twenty days«
ofVoufiaun and KiUallan. 323
SrAflo//.— The public fchool is at the church 1 where read- ing Englifh, writing, arithmetic^ book-keeping, and fome- times Latin, are taught. The number of fchoiars are about 40 or 50 In winter I but fewer in fummer. There are alio private fchools in different parts of the parxfh. The ichoolmafter's falary is 200 merks \ he receives 4 d. for a bap- tiim, and is. 2 d« for a marriage proclamation ; and a fmall yearly fom as feffion- clerk, and for keeping the regiflers^ par* tkulady an exzH account of the poor's funds.
Pmt.— There is at prefent near 20 poor people who are fup* plied from the poor's funds : Nearly the half of them are old, and unable to work : Some of them are poor widows, and fmall children ; others infirm or difeafed. The poor's ilock is L. 260 ; the interefl of which, with the weekly colledUons at the church dooTt is the only means of their fupport at prefent. They are regularly fupplled, with more or leis, at the begin- »ing of each quarter, eipecially the aged and infirm^ as far as the money in the hand of the trealurcr will go.
tnchfuTiSi and Rents of Lands^ is^c. — Moft part of the pa* vi(h is incioied ; the upper grounds with ftonc-walls, and the low lands with thorn hedges. The rent of the upper and billy farms is from 10 s. to 15 s. an acre arable ^ what is rocky, and covered with heath, is of fmall value, very i'uitable for planting the Scotch fir, larch, and oaks, though it is not yet applied to that uieful and profitable purpoie. The rent in the low land, of a clay and loamy foil, is from 20 s. to 30 «• an acre. The upper or hilly farms produce oats, fome peafe, barley, and good dry potatoes. 1 he farms in the plain and low land produce oats, barley, peafe, beans, and whc^t. Th< farmers^ ot late» have left off fowing wheats
thinking
3^4 Statijlical Aceoum
thinking it a troublcfo i c and unprofitable crop. Tbey liavci for many years paO, (own a great quantity of ryegrals and clover- feedi which turns to good account ) the hay is com- monly fold at 5 d, and 6d. a Aone* Ihey have a ready market for the bay at Greenock, &c. There was no- thing but bog, or mi adow hay, for horfes about fifty yean ifiro. The valuation of the united parilhes of Hoaftoao and Killallan amounts to L. 4057 : 8 : o Scots, The real rent is ne^irly double^ if not more, than it was 40 years ago» The rent of the barony of Fullwood at that time was aboot 6 s and 7 s. an acre, and now there is none of k bebw ao s. 1 he number of the horfes in the pari(h cannot be wc8 afcertained. Far . ers, who have only about half a pkmghgale of lindi more or lefs, often keep only one horfe in fiiromer, buy 'not her in winter, and hire one to make a three horfe plough in the fpring ; and, when the ploughing is over, they fell one of them. Their horfe?: are generally of a high price, viz. from 20 to 2? guineas. I hey buy them young, feed them Well, and, aher a year or two., fell them to advantage. The fanners who have a ploughgate of land or more keep horfes in proportion to their labour. Cows cannot be faid to be nu- Bierous. A farmer that has half a ) loughgate of land will have 6, 7, or 8 milk cows, and a few young cattle, in pro- portion to their farms. In the hilly and moorifli ground^ thcf bring up more young cattle, on coarfe pafture, than in the low part of the country, where grafs is fcarce, except wbea io'^VL 1 here are not muny (heep in this parifh, except a few in the upper and uioorifh farms \ they hurt the indofures and the milk- cows grafs.
Trtce of Labour and Provtftons.'-^O^X'^mtA^ in this fhirc, for fome years paft, has been from 1 1 d to i s. i d. per peck, Laft year it was x s. z J d. in fummer and harveft \ at prefent
it
tf Hou/latm cne^ Kilkllan. 3^5
It is generally i $• i d. it would be much dearer were there not a great quantity imported from Ireland. The produce of grain in this (hire is not iufficicnt to maintain the inhabitants one*half of the year. Faifley, Port Glafgow, and Greenock, are yearly increaGng ; new villages, cotton and ipinning mills are conftaatly building. The wages of mechanics, day-Uboui^ ers, andticrvants, are more than double what they were 4c or 50 years ago. A day-labourer's wages is 1 s. ad. at leaft ; a Wright or houfe- carpenter is. 6 d. and is. 8d, ; a mafoa 1 s. lod* or 2s. ; a taylor pd. and 10 d. a day ; men fer- Tants from L. 7 to L. 10 a year, if they are good ploughmen ^ women^fervants, from L. i : 10 : o 6r L« 2 the half year^ and upwards. The farmers generally work their land by hired fenrantSt if they have not children fit for it, ex- cept when they occafionally employ day labourers for thrtfli^ ing, or in harvcft. Price of flcfli meat and poultry is daily increafing ; beef, that u(ed to be (old at 3 s. is now 6 s and 7 s. a itone ; and mutton, that ufed to be fold 40 years ago^ at 2i d. and 3 d. a pound, is fold at 5 d. 6 d. and 6\ d. The price of a couple of good hens 3 s. or 3 s. 4 d. Butter and cheeie is double what it was at the above mentioned time.
Free and Lime'Jlorte.^^Thcrc is plenty of frceftone in both parifhes, of difierenr qualities, ibfter and harder, very near the manfion-houfe of Barochan and Houftoun. There is both coal and limeftone in the eftate of Houftoun, but of a hard quality ; the limeftone is deep in the ground, and ill to bnm, and is the roof of a thin coal } but, when the lime is well burnt by a (kilful hand, though it has little c&c£t tht firft year, its cffe£l is more lafting than loiter lime.
^oftmrs and Dr^.—- The inhabitants of this parifh are ge«
neraily
320 BmI/KoJ Account
nerally fober, an^ regular in attending public worflup. The farmers arc very indnf^riotis. In the fprin^ they ctilrivatc their land ; in fummcr they lead lime and mannrr ; and in th^ hay and corn harveft tiroes they are bnlTly employed. They are decently clothed, efpecially the women ; many of the young women and girts in the village flower lawns and niuflnsy by which they not only maintain tbemlelvesi bi't buy fineries- About 40 years ago, the fineft dre6 (rf* the women, old and young, was brown or blew cloaks* and cap<! I to which fcarlet ones fucceeded. Scarlet is now woni by ^he loweft and. pooreft people. The women generally wear biack filk cioakS| bonnets of various ibapd^, and higk crowned hats, and riding habits ; and the congregation on 'Sab- bath appears like an afiembly of well dreflcd and &fhicmaUe ladies. So great is the change of drefs that trade and luanu* faAures have made among the common people 10 this part of the kingdom. The young men appear at kirk and market drefled in iioglilh cloth, and good linens* They wear hatSi smd bonnets are now rarely fecn.
AntiquUies —-In the barony of Barochan, and on the fids of the public road^ ftood an antient crols, about ix or 12 feet high, fet in a large pedeftal of undreft ftone. The crofs had been neatly hewn, with much wreathed carviag on all fides. No letters appear on it: It is much defa^ ced with ruin and ftorm. In a fquare part of the Iroot are a rows of fmall images ; in the upper row there are 4 with garments to their feet \ and 4 in the under row : Each fecm to hold, in their left haftd, a club over their Qioulders, that is thickeft at the hx end. In a fquare on the back part there art alio 2 rows of fmall figures, 4 in each row, much defaced^ and coarfely executed : But when, by whom, or on what oc- calioQ it was erected, there is no riscord or tradition. Ho^ifi
caU
%f Hou/lom ami KilkiLnu $^j
call tt a Daniih crofs : Perhaiit it might be intended as a de*i votioaal crols for travellers.
Barochan is an antient family. The original anceAor of that name is (aid to have come from Flanders in King Da« -vid'b reign ; and aflumed their firname and defignation from tlie country of the Fiexnin.,s. Une of thc.ii is a witnef:» to a diarter in the reign of King Alexander IIK and to-another charter in tUe year (309- In the reign o^ James IV. Wil- liam Fleming of Barochan was IherifFof Lanark^ and killed "With the King» and many of the oobiLty and gentry, in the battle of Floudon. This family has always been much reipec- ted in the country.
The crofs above mentioned was lately removed by Malcoln Flemmgt £fq; the prefent proprietor, to a neighbouring hill^ vrhere the old man lion houie of Barochan formerly ftood. This hou(e is reported to have been burnt by the LngiiOi^ probably in the reign of King £dwardy and his invalion of Scotland*
The manfion-houie of Houftoim was alfo very antienf. There was a large, and very high tower, on the nortb wed corner, which was the moft antient part of the building, with a lower houfe joined to the eaft end of the tower, with vaults below, and a very long and wide paved hall above, with an« tique windows in the front, and without plafter in the roof.
The timbers of the roof were arched, and made of mafly oak. The other parts ot the buildmg appeared to be addi- tions, fubfequently made as they became necefTary. It was a complete fquare, with a large area in the infide. On the front tt the Ibuth were two turrets, between which was the grand
entry
328 Statijlical Account
entry into the area, arched above, and (ecured by a port cul. lis. The building was a real fortification ; being large, and built on an elevated fituation, it had a lordly appearance, overlooking the whole plain towards Paifley and Glafgow. About 10 years ago it was demolilhed, except the eaft fide. Mr Macrae, who was then the proprietor, defiring to hare the old village near it removed to a greater diftance, feued ground for building a new village; and, to encourage the peo- ple tb build, he gave them the Aones of- the manfion-houfe gratis. The tower was fo tliick, and the (lone and lime fe ftrongly cemented, that they were obliged to' blaft it with gun- powder. Mr Macrae propofed at that time to build a new houfe for himfclf, or to make an addition to the fide that was then {landing, and was the newcft part of the whole; but that plan was never executed ; and the whole is now a ruin. The building IS faid to have been originally a religious hoofe of Monks of the Ciftertian order.
In an a!le adjoining to the eaft end of the church are fere* ral fepulchral monuments; particularly a magnificent tomb of neat workmanihip, in free ftone. In the front, under a cano* fy, refembling an alcove bed, are placed two ftatues as big as the life: The one is faid to be an cfEgy of Sir Patrick Houf- toun of that Ilk, who died in the year 1450; and the other of his lady, Annes Campbell, who died in the year 1456. The one rcprefentir.g Sir Patrick is drcfled in a coat of mail, his head Iyin;> on a pillow, and his feet on a lion with a wid« m(»uth, hoUling a lamb in his paws under him. The image of li.e hiiy is drcfled as in grave clothe , neatly cut in ftonc. Both their hand^ are clcv.;tc:!, as m a praying or fupplicating poRure. Rouml the vtri^e rf the tomb there is an infcription in Sjyon en vitals, but lo much effaced, that little of it can be diftiiicily rc;ia.
Upoa
§f Haufiwn ofid KillaliofU 529
trpon tlie Ibuth wall of the aile there is a large frame of tfmberi on which 2 piAures, (eemingly done with oil colours^ but much worn out. On the right fidei a man in complete armour, refembling that of a Knight Templar, with an in* icription in Saxon characters over his bead, fome words of which are effaced— Hie jacet Oominns Joannes Houftoun de •odem miles, qui obiit anno Domt iicccc*— On the left hand a piAure of his lady, alfo much efi^ed, and over her head the following infeription :— liic jacet Oomina Maria Colqo- koun, ff jonia quondam di£ki Domini Joannis, qua obiit fepti» mo die menfis Oftobris, an Dom M^cccc^'-quinto^— -On the lame fide ci the aile is a fine monument, with a variety of emblematical figures, part of fine free llooc, but moft of it ftucco. On the top is the image of an old man, with long flowing hair, and a crown on his head, with i look robe^ having one foot on a larse globe, with a fmall ima, e on each fide, holding a trumpet to their mouth. Acrofs the globe is a chain hanging down on each fide, and fixed below ; where there are, in a (landing pofture, two images refembling chii* dren, each holding a Ibk of the chain : The one on the right hand has three hces ; the other, on the left hand, is blind* folded, as with a cloth bound over the eyes. There are fe« ▼eral other figures 00 the fides^ and below the foUowii^ in^ fcrqptions
Hie fiu eft Domina Anna Hamikonia, dileftlffima Domini Patricii Houfioun, de eodem, Baronetti, conjux fua, quae obiit tertio die idus Abias, anno falntis partae, milefiimo iexcente^ fimo et feptaagefimo-oftavo.
There have been ieveral urns, with Tttixt^ of human bonq^^ {btuid both in Houftoun and Killallan. One was lately found Ifl the brow of a hill on tkc road fide 1 and mhers have been
Yosr* I« T t Iboad
3 3^ SMiflkal Account
fboncf under cairns of fmall itones TheTe urns were pro- bablj Romiin urns, this diAri£t being part of a Roman pro- vince, and within the line of Antoninns's wall^ or Graham'i -djke. i>r Henry, in his Hittory of Britain, oUerrcs, that the antient nations of South Britain burnt the bodies of the dead, according to the pradice of the antient Gauls^ firom whom they were deicended ; and that this is unqueliionabl; evident from the great number of urns, of Britifh workmaa- ihip, which have been found in feTerai pUces, foil of aflics, and human bones half burnt ; and thefe umsi with their ?^ rious contents, were depofited in iepulchres, caves, and bir- rows or tumuli, according to the prevailing cuftom of tiic country j but, as the bones of men lying at full length, witb- out any marks of burning, have been found in fomt of thefe barrows, it appears, that, on Tome occaGons, the antient Bri- tons of the fouth, both of Scotland and England, buried thdr dead without burning, and that the Caledonians always imd their dead in deep graves.
About 20 years ago, when the country people in this ps- rifli were digging for Itones to inclofe their farms, they met with (everal chefts or coffins of flag (tones, iet on their edges, fides, and ends, and covered with the fame fort of ftoncs above, in which were many human bones of a large iize, and (everal fculls in fome of them. In one was found many trinkets of a jet black fubftance, fbme round, others round and oblong, and others pf a diamond (hape, &c. all perforated. Probably they were a necklace. There was a thin piece, about 2 inches broad at one end, and perforated with many holes, hut narrow at the other; the broad end, full of holes, feemed to be defigned for fufpending oiaDf trinkets, as an ornament on the breaft. The ground irbcrc thefe (tone coffins were found was a little railed, with a ai^'
tors
^ H^uJIatm and KiUallan* 331
tore of fmall ftoocs and earth, in the form of a barrow or tumulut*
Bat whether thefe ftone coffins were older than the Ro- man government in this country, or later, or upon what oc« caiion io many people were buried there in that manner, and feveral in ohe ftone cheO, is not known. It feems to have been the confeqaence of a battle or Ikirmifh between two Loftile pari^; which wat the cafe not aoo years ago, be- tween families, through moft part of Scotland, who often met their enemy, with their vaflais and dependants, and Jlaughtered one another.
About half a mile to the fbuth weft of Houftoun manCon- houfe, there is a mount compofed of a vaft number of fmall ftones, in which was found one of the like ftone coffins ; and, opp'ofite to it, direftly northward, there is another of the fame kind, compoied of earth and (mail ftones, in a circular form. They were both lately enlarged, inclofed, and plant- ed with foreft trees. I hefe two moonts may have been the ground of two oppofite camps of warriors, fighting near the place where the ftone coffins were founds
NUM-
S39 Btatijiscai Auom0
NUMBER Sjai7.
FARISIf OF BIGGAE^ fij (hi Rta. Mr WxLLiAM Wats^k.-
Situathny RicUnt^ and Surfan.
THE pariih of Biggar, in the coanty of Lanari:, is the feat of a Preibytqy, a branch of the ^ynod of Lo- thian and iweeddale. It is about 6 ii^iles long froiD eaftti yfrt&, \ and 3 j bro^ from fputh to north ; the figure being t fort of oyal» with (bme UTegulaM*ities, The forfece is partlj liillyt and partly leyel} in fome places heathy, in othos green, and interfperlcd with fcrtfle fields; and is alowlt equally divided between tillage and pafture.
Rent, CSV.— rThe prefent rental of the pariih may amoaot tp ahouf L. 1 8oo, I he heft ground about the town leu at 30 s. and fome particular fpot:* yield a rent of 40 s» an acre; l)ut, in general, the land in the neighbourhood of Bigger iets at |>ctwcen 20 s and 30 % an acre, being moitiy ditthbutcd into fevcral fmall farms of L« 10 and li 15 each. Iq the couotrf part of the pariih, fome farms let at L. 50* others at L. '0| an«J one at L. x^ot^r annum: but th^-: rate per acre cannot be eafily afcertained, as they confift moftly of fome tole^Wf good 'w grounds, and a confiderable extent of hilly poor |an4» which is employc4 f<v paaore. There has bem no
gre^t
jf Biggar» Hi
y«tt »lter»tkm «f the fize of tarms here thefe man^ yean paft. The parifli, in general, is open and uninclored, though there arc feveral indofure* here and there, efpccially nea» the town The number of horfcs may be about 1 25, and rf iheep 100 fcore. There are about 40 heritors in the panfli, including portioners oi Biggar town } Lord Elphinftone being the principal proprietor, and Mr Brown of Edmonftone thi 9Dly refideat heritor of any confideration.
jPrica tf Prwifitm and Z^ar.— Butcher meat generally ftlb at } d. 3i d. or 4 d a pound ; butter 7 d. a pound j heni ^om IS. to IS. 2d.} and chickens 4 d. each. The fuel nfed here is coal frqm Douglas, 1 1 miles off; 3 loads, or i l^orfe draught, co.r.es to 3 s. 3 d. ; but Ibme people ufe peats from Biggar mofs, though thclc are difficult to procure, and •t the fame time expentive. An expert man fervant, main- lined ma farmer's family, will receive from L. 5 : 10 : o to L. 6 *«• annum, and a maid lirvai-t L. 2: lo:o to L. 3-, which is tw.cc as much as they got 40 years ago. A day labourer has 8 d. a day in fummcr, and 6 d in wmter •, but, ^ harreft, the daily wages bf a man are 10 d. and of a wo- aunSd. Carpenters earn i s. 3 d. a day, and m«16ns i s. 6 d.
•r IS. 8d.
P<^«/irf«fi».-^Total inhabhantt . • • 937
Ip the town of Biggar 3»9
In the country part of the parifh • • • 34«
Under I ©years of age *®7
From i« to 2* \
. . 410 From 20 to 50
• • 104 Ifrom JO to 70 • • . • •
^l^oTC 70 years of age , ? . • • 37
Th«
334 Staftnical Jcantnt
The rfttms made to Dr Wcbfter about 1750 was 1098 (bob; fo that the po;)ulition has declined i6t fince thatperi(>d; though it app -nrs that the population of the town has been for fome years paft on the increafe. In this town there are^
MerchantSi or (hopkeepers 7
Shoemakersi including journeymen « • • 15
Phylician • • • • • • • • I
Surgeons, including 4 apprentices • • • • 7
Attorney ••• • •«■•!
Minifter of the Eftabliftied Church • • * • i
w^ Burger Seceders • • • • X
■ Relief Congregation • • • I
This place ftands on a dry and elevated fituation, favoured with a southerly expolure, and is alk'wed to be a healthy and well aired town ; no houfes are unoccupied ; anJ three new ones have been lately built. There arc three fairs held here yearly ; one at Candlemas, another in July, and a third in November.
Church and StipenJ^-^Thc collegiate church of Biggar was built in i|;45i by Malcolm 3d Lord Fleming, Lcrd High Chamberlain of Scotland, and largely endowed by him for the fupport of a provoft, 8 pi^ebendaries, 4 Gnging boys, and 6 poor men. It is built in the form of a crofs; the fabric is entire ; but the fteeple and fpire have never been finifhedL It isjuftnow undergoing a reparation, and, when completed, will be a decent place of worfhip. The (lipend is L. 55 : 1 1 : 1 1^ in money, 3 chalders of oat-meal, and 1 chalder of barley} befides which, the miniiter has L. 2 : 10 :o allowance for grafs, and a glebe of 2 acres and 3 roods, worth yearly about li. 3 : & : 0, Lord Eiphinftone is patron, — A fiurgher meet-
mg^onk was built in the town of Biggar about 1760 ; and about 1 7 60 a Relict houic was alio ereAed there, the mem« bcrs of which are colleaci from 16 neighbouring parilhes.
P«^r.— The colleAions at the church doors, profits of the mort-cloths, &c. amount to L 25 a year, which is difburfed ^mong about a dozen of itated penlioners, and in giving oc- cafional lupplies to otht-rs. The poor belonging to the fec- taries get fomc kind of lupply from their own meetings ; but, in general, it is very madequatc ; fo that they arc ibmetimes oblfgeJ to be relieved from the parifii funds. The Burgher and KcUcf congregations are ohen in debt. Part of their colle£tions arc applied in paying their minifters ftipend, keep- ing their meeting houfes in repair^ and paying intereft of money borrowed.
Roads. — ^The public roads in this parifli^ and in the county in general, are improving every day. About 30 years ago^ the inhabitants wrought at them a certain number of days in the jear *, while this pradice continued, the work was performed with rcluftance. and the roads kept in bad repair : But now, eacti farm pays a certaii iiim; and the roads, undei: the in- fpcftion of truOees, are well made, and preierved in excellent repair, proper materials being at hand. There is one turn- pike in the parilh ; and the prejudices of the country people againfV turnpikes are diminifhing, as they now fee the advan* tages ii good roads, which here enables one horfe to carry from 8 to 10 bars of lead fro : Leadhills in a cart ; whereas 5 or 6 bars were thought a fufficient load before.
Mifcellanmu Obfer^jations. — ^The want of manufafhires, and thr high price of fi'*!, occafions rather an indolent hahit among the lower claflcS| in whom a tafte for drefs feeus to
be
33<7 SfaiiJIical Aammt
be on the increafing htnd } and tea drioking it more < than it was 20 years ago. The moll prevalent diiie|i|>cn Jeem to be flow and intermitting fevers. Nothing fingular occurred here in the firarcity of 1782 and 17^3. 'I lie be tors aflefied themfelves in a iiim of money for pmx:haling < meal, which was fold at a reduced price to Inch perloos as the heritors or kirk fcflion deemed objedcs of diltreis.
Antifuitiis^^^hx the weft end of the town of Biggar is a tumulus» which appears never to have been opened ; and there are veftiges of tlirce campSf each of a rounUiih figuret at different places in the neighbourhood There is a tradi- tion of a battle having been fought at the eaft end of the town, between the bcots, under the command of Sir William IVallacet and the Engltfh army, who were faid to be 6o,04« ftrongy wherein a great Ikughtcr was made on both fide^ specially among the latter.
HUIC
^ Ourfjre. 337
KuMBER XXXV. t'ARISH OF DUNSTRE4
Sj tbi Aev. ilr J6hn BkiDFtiTtt.
Orfgifi ffiift Noma
DUNSIRi or Dunfior, iti the C^ItiCi fignifics the Lbng Hill I thence it appeirs that a remarkable hiUt called Ounfyre, near the fmall Tillage trbere the churck ftands, has given name to that TiilagCi and confequentlj to Uie paridi. ' ^
SkuaAnt Extent^ tfntf 5iif;^.----Thjt pirifh lies at the eaT- tem extreitaftj of the coontj of Lanark, in the prefbTtery of Biggar, ^nd fynod of Lothian and Tweeddale. The arable land lies betweed the hill of Dunfjr^ and the range of Dol- phington and Walfton hills to the Ibuth, which are aboot a mile diftant from the former^ Between them is a flat vab^ extending near three miles in length, through the middle of which the fmall river . Medwin (the fouthem boundary of the parifli) mns in a grinding dircAion. The houies are pla- ced between the Medwin and the hill of Dunfyrci and on ri- fing grounds^ at the weft extremity of the flat lands^ many of them in fituations improper for the fiurms. The reft of the parifli is flieep paftuit, ftretohing to the north \ fo thal^ though the houfes are nearly m a line from eaft to weft, the
Vot. I. XT n extent
^3^
Staiijiiccri Accmnt
extent of the parilh is about five miles every way ; and it fc bounded by the parifhcs of Carnwath, Weft Calder^ Linton^ Dolphington, WaKlon^ and LibbertDD.
aimate and Difiafes.—T\M parifli is placed very high, being about 700 feet above the .level of the eift and weft feas, from which Dunfyre is almoft equi-diftant i lo that the Med win beiog divided by a mill^iain at the eaft end of the parifli, one half of the ftrcam runs te the Clyde, and the o- ther half to the Tweed. The air is pretty good, though ra- ther moift. The prevalent Hfflrem^rs'arc rhcumatifm, aad nervous difordcrs ; the laft, it is imagined, arc partly ow- ing to the want of ciroilfttion . of i^r ^ the houfes^ the win- jdows of which formerly hadimoveyble tiirfKir^eanres beUm, <iind glafit tfboYo, now the viifiofMiare frOied, and fc«rccly 'any of them can be openedl'
c. ' . • . • ■ .
Population.^Oti the I ft of January 1791, there were ia
the pariihi
|
IVlale^ |
• |
• |
|
|
f'emales |
• |
||
|
Individnais |
1 • |
||
|
lETnder |
loyeits |
"of age < |
|
|
•From |
•10 |
to |
■%ol |
|
26 |
itO |
'5* |
|
|
•5 .'.., |
30 |
1# |
>o' ■ |
|
40 |
10 |
-ilo . |
|
|
•%~ ' |
so |
19 |
69 .1 |
|
60 |
to. |
70 |
|
|
•>« . |
•70 |
to |
89 . |
|
A-Mt. |
•80' |
«0 |
JSf* |
"■X^r-it-T
S
i«3
177
88
80 60
37
4* 30
14 12
7 360
By
By fliC; jre(kurn« made .to DrWebftcr about 17501 there were 359 iobabitants then iq the parifh, fo that it appears the pc^Hilatioii. has made little or no progrefs m 40 years^ though i| is fs^d that, about 17831 th^ number of mhabitants was about 409^ th&decreaie iince that p^ripd beiog owing to the ei)l9iigemQ9t of farms, and pulling down of cottages. Ail the pariibionorsi except about 40 leAaries of various denomi- nations^ are of the eftabliOied church \ and, from the regi£- tersi it appears there were 14 bapcifed, and 9 burled^ betweea ift January 1788 and i ft January 1791. There are in the pariih three heritors, none of whom refide, one clergyman, twelve farmers, two.ftudents, a few weavers, fmiths, mafbnsj Wrights, and taylors, who have about half a dozen appren- tices.
Ecclifiaftual State. — The annual value of the living is L. 100, exclufive of the manfe and glebe, which laft may be worth L. 10 a year. The King is patron, and the parfon is titular of the tythes. The manfe was built in 1756. The kirk is old, but in tolerable repair. The number of poor- re- ceiving charity are 7 or 8, fupplied by the colle£iions, and the intereft of a fmall fund of L. 90.
Natural ProduSltms^ {^r.— In general, there Is not much wood in the pariOi ; it Is chiefly fir, a(h, and a few limes. Some oats are fent to the Glafgow market^ as are alfo fheep, and turnip fed cattle. The artificial graflcs are clover, rye- grafs, and a little rib-grafs \ the X\vn^% of fowing and reaping are various* In good i'eafons, the harveft here is thxee^ in a wet year fix, weeks later than in Mid or £aft Lothian. Dun- fyre Htll is yocky and gk'cen« The other rifing gfouods in the pariOi afe covered with black h^th. Peat is produced in the par ifli \ li^t there is no coal nearer than twelve milesl
The
34^ StaHftical Aefma
The land rent in 1735 was L. 5001 it may perliapt be aov nearly doubled % and the parifli is divided into twelve fanns, one of which is wlioDjr (heep pafttire. The daj-wages %£ a mafon and carpenter are i s. 6 d. each ; ol a tajlor i s» ; of a day-labourer is.} ploughmen get from L. tf to L. 7» and women fervants from L. 3 to L. 4 /#r armum. The peopk are fober, economical^ and induftrioos. The lervantt arc well fed and treated 1 and, in feed time and harveft, none in Scotland can be more alert. The Medwin produces a fof trouts«
Afttiquities.'^Thtre is a row of Iqmlchral cairns nmniog from the eaft end of this parilh upon the edge of a mnir to- wards Linton. Two of them the prefent incumbent has feen opened ; in one the body had been buried in a large coffin of feveral unwrought freeftoncs, in the other i^ras found a fmall urn*
Mijcellant^us ObfervBtkmj.^^Tht foil in the parifli) and ia all that tra£t of country which ftretches from hence to La- nark is in general light and fandy \ the arable land being fre- quently intef fperfed withy or bordering on, peat-mo(s. The foil is well adapted for raiiing turnips and potatoes, though it is only of late that the culture of t|ie former has been intro- duced. In generali this tra£t is ftiU uninclofed. Inclofurq, with belts and clumps of planting, would muck iqppft>ve the parifli, by (heltering the grounds, and meliorating the cli- mate. It is a queftion of importance how thefe fences could be madp at the cheapeft rate. Thom-hedgea are impraAi* cable here, as the foil has many variations froin good to bad, where thorns cannot be reared* Stones are not every where to be got ; and, befldes, the poverty of the ground will hardly beartheexpenceaferoftinglion^wallK Perh?f8 tnrf-dyk^
. rfDunfyre. S4t
'^U €oped» Is the only mode that can be adopted ; thefe wil) ftand to rear a verge of fir-trees until they are pretty much out of danger from being deftroyed by cattle ; and, if the puter*row of the belts were planted thick with larch, which is a hardy fort of wood, this of itfelf would be a good fence, and fupply the place of the turf dykes when they begin tp fail* Upon the whole, nothing can be done effeAually for the improvement of this country without draining and fcreen- iDg. Perhaps the rents might be thus railed one-third ip twenty years time. The gentlemen of this part of the coun- try feem to have no idea of building villages, though, as fuel b plenty, they might be foon peopled.
ijUMt
34^ Siai^ical Acewnt
NUMBER XXXVI. PARISH OF YRSTER. By tie Rtu. Mr Jambs InNbs.
NafM, Siiu^im, and Mfiitat* <
THE aotient name of this pari(h was Botbons, when die feat of the family of Tweeddale was tt the old caftle, about a mile from their prefent refidence ; but, after the Re- formation! the family left the caftle, and began to build the houfe they now inhabit, which they then called Tefter, and the parifli has ever (ince gone by the fame name. This pa« rifh is iituated in the county of Eaft Lothian, prefbytery^ of Haddington, and fynod of Lothian and Tweeddale, beipg bounded by the parifhes of Haddington on the north, Gar- vald on the eaft, Lauder on the fouth, and Bolton on the weft. It extends about two miles in breadth, and three in length, without reckoning that portion which makes part of Lammer«moor, and extends two miles further to the fomh- ward. From the foot of Lammer-law, to the northern boon- dary of the pari(h, the country has a very gentle defcent ; and from eaft to weft it is moftly plain ; Lammer-moor is covered with heath.
Sail and Qimate. — The foil U very different ; in the fame fiirm, we have rich good laa4 and very poor ground inter« mixed togetlier } but, by meani pf lime and dun^, the great*
^ pot df thepftrfOi has been brought Info 5«ry- good order. Some of the bcft grbund Is near the fbat of Laixmierumoor liHIs ; the nioft of' the arable land is rather a (haliow thaa a de^p foil. The air is pure and very healthy^ ami no parti- cular diftenlpelf h prevalent in the pdrffli ; though k has been observed "that, of late ycars,= confurnpriofts^have^been meneire- quent than ufual iiif thii part oFthe^countV^. ' '
NiOurdl Ptodiiflhfis.*^TL}\t bin gromid is about two miles fqiiate, and the nrnnber of acres- of ara^le-'Iandis about 4000, of which near 2000 acres are employed in raifiug coiln and roots, and in fallow. There are fowq about 200 bolls of whfeati jfVoc/Bdlli d^'oats, loo boBs'bf tjarlcy, r«d bolls of pcafe,'i26 acres of furiiips, 100 acres of p6t«oes, from ^5 to 'id acres of flax ; but this laft is not* much cultivated here, -thie 'gfouid not bemg*'J:it Ifcfr it. ' There' are often ito acres of fal- low, which is fowri^iwn with wheat and baric?. Much more grain Is riifed than the people cafi c6hfufaie: Blluch Is fold Ih Haddington market ; and a confiderable quantity goes yearly to the Weft cooriiry,^ More than one-half oFthc ground in the parifh is in paAure and (own grafs j about 200 acres are cover- ed with wood, fuch as elm, oak, beech, and fir; among which are fome of the largeft and mod beadtiful trees iti Scotland. One oak-tree in the wood of Yefter was valued feme years ago "at L. 25. A good number of flieep, and,'of late years, a num- ber of calves are 'bred in the parifif. 'Some fenanis rear in one year about 20 calves each. There may be, of faddle and work-hor(es, abdul 200, black cattle about 600, and 1 40 fcore of fheep. llie ufual time of Towing is the beginning of March^ and of reaping the beginning of September.
Pricu of Provifions.—'Ettt fells at Martinmas for 3 d. and In Ipring at 4 d, a pounds and mutton bears much the
fame
344 SuuyHciU Aammt
fime price ; Tcal fells horn 4 cL to ^d« a pound, siccordik^ to the fealbn \ lamb from 1 f. to 2 s. 6d. a quarter \ pork, ib general, 4 d. a pound ; geeie 3 s. each i ducks i a. ^ rhirhciia 5 d. to 6 d. a pound each \ butter 8 d. to 9 d« and cheefe 5 d. to 6 d. a pound. The price of oat-meal 40 years ago was 7 d. the peck, at prefent it bis. A greater quantity of beef and mutton are now confnmed by the lower dais of people thaa formerly. The fuel commonly ufed is coal and wood \ the former comes from fiat miles diftaoce ; one cart^ holding fix loads, cofts 2 9. at the hillt and the cacriage comes to 3 s. more.
. Pricii ff Latour^'^Tht wagtt of an ordinary man.fervant 40 years ago were L. 2 : 10 : o yearlyi at preient they are from L.5 to L. 7. Womcp fervants th^n received L. i : 10 :o, all articles included i now tbey have, on an aVerage, L. 3 a year. Forty years ago, the Wages qf a labouring man, who received no vifhials, were 5 d. through the winter, and 6 d« .in fummer; now they arc raifed io 10 d. in winter, and 1 s. in fummer i in harveft, the reapers get from 9 d. to i s. 4 d. with their meat. A carpenter makes is. 6d. 1 a mafon is* 8d. ; and taylors have from 6 d. to 8 ci. a ^ay, with their meat. The common labourer, when well employed, may gain from L. 15 to L. 18 a year, w^ch makes him and his family live very comfortably > and a common ploughman may earn, in« eluding meal, cdrn, and cow, &c. from L. 13 to L. t j a year.
Rent of Land and Houfes, bfc^^'tht land rent of the whole parifli amounts to about L. 2000 per annum. A common cot* tage lets at about 13 s. or L* i /^r annum ; if the houfe confifts of two or more apartments, the rent is 2^ i. for each apartment, when occupied feparately. There are about 150 inhabited houfes in the parilh| each of which contams 5
fouls
(Mb oit an ayerage« The vjlUge of Giffbrd contains about 400 people^ moflly fmall fuers ; the other villages are but trifling. There are about 60 ploughs in the pari(h» which arc drawn by 2 horfes each ; about 65 carts, fome drawn by. 1 horfes, and fome by 1 borfe ; 00 waggons ; i coach \ 3 fiour-wheeledf and ^ two-Khccix;d carriages.
Populattoft^^^^SooMt 1750, the returns from hence to Dr Wcbfter was 1091 : At prefent there are about 800, from^ 5 years of age to 90 ; the number of males and females being nearly equal,; the latter rather preponderating. The births, on an average^ fii:e about 25, deaths about 15, and iQacriages about 8, every year. The parifli was much more populous I oi). years ago tbaii.it is now; the caufes of tlie de- creafe muft be attributed to the demolition of cottages, and the union of &ver;il fmall farms into one ; but the population has rather iqcreafed (ince the prefent Marquis of Fweeddale came to reild&at Yefter. Th^e are about c children on aa average in a family : The children, in general, are not &^ fiout as thejr were 40 years ago ; which inn{^ be owing, in a gr^ sfVf^ifXf^^ to thediSerent manner of living \ as the com-^ men .geo^ now drink a great deal of tea, and not good> fmall bzcx^ which thej^did 50 years ago.
In the p^riih are 5 Ijcritors, all of whom refide cither con- Aamly, or occafionally ; i clergyman ; 1 phyfician ; \, (ludent of dtf'Viityj«^4& £u*mers; a good many carpenters, mafons^ and ^iccavpr^who have all plenty of work through the iea* ibn, and. line very ^o^ortably; 18 male, and 22 female I)ouii;l^odlfl' ^vants j 30 female, and 80 male labouring ferr Toj^ts^ mnftof whicb laft are married, and have families* ThqreU not one lawyer or attorney in the whole pariih ; and tl^c pcpplC'inake it their ftudy to keep theiraffairs as much . y »* I. X X out
34^ Staiijlicai Account
out of the hands of fuch men as pofiible, referring all Ukat differences to be determined by the arbitration of ndghboort. All the mhabitanu are of the £ftabll(hed Churchy except lo Seceders.
Church and Stipend* — ^The church and manic were bailt in 1708. The value of the living, including the glebe* is about L. 100 a year, with a good manfe and garden. The Marquis of fweeddalc is patroQ,
Poor. — ^The number of poor rn this parifli arc firom 28 to 32, each of whoir receive from 20 s, to L. 3 yearly. The coltt-fiions at the church cioors amount to about L* 18 ; the profits of the mort-clothS| and other cafualties, from L« 10 to L 12 a year; 13 acres of land belonging to the parifh yield an annual rent of L. 1 1 ; and a aiortiiication of L. 100 bj the late Marchionefs of Twccddalc L. 5 ; fo that from JL 40 to L. 45 is dii^ributed among the poor yearly. About 1750, there appears to h^vc been niuch the fame number of poor on the lift, who rcccivrd about L. tipper annum. All the p or arc fupportcd jn their own houies, as in »^*» cafc they arc much happ'^r, and do much more work, thaa if crowded together in work-houfcs. There is a Difpenfarj for diftribiirtng medicines, and giving medical advice to the poor, gratis: which inftitution is of great benefit to the country^
Mifcellaneous Oh/ermtkns — ^There is in the ptrifli a finall river called Gifford Water, in which are fomc very fine trout : This ftream was remarkable for a flood on the 4th of Oftober 1775, which carried down moftof the bridges in »he pari(h, and a number of trees from Tefter 5 a moft imac- pountable circumftance, as no extraordinary quantity of rain |iad prerioufly faUcn. Tl^e ^pl^ a»e in gen^ very indut
tAtm^ liaTiflg {Plenty of aU kinds of labour. Their fize Tarict from 5 feet 5 inches to 6 feet 2 inches. There are 00 ma- nufaftures in the parifh except a bleachfield, which employs about 15 hands lid the fumnier. The fcarcity in 1782 had no particular effeft on theparifii. The heritors then bought meal at the market price, and fold it far 2 d. or 3 d. the peck lo^er to fuch as were on the poor^s lift, or had fmall families*
JSmmnt ilf ifir.— Thb parifli has given birth to two emU nent living charaAers, Dr John Witherfpoon Prefident of the College of New Jerfey, and Dr Charles Nifbet Preiident «f the College of Carlifle9 in America.
KUtlU
Vj4t StaiWc^l Auount
NUMBER XSXVIt
PARISH OF BATHGATE.
By tie Rtv. Mt Walter jARmHt.
SifuatiOfi, isTc,
I^KIS parifh lies in the couRty and PrcSbjterf of linlitl^ gow, and makes part of the, Synod of Lothian um! Tweeddale. It is 7 miles long, from eaft to weft, and 2 miles broad, from north to fouth i being bounded by the pariihes of Torphichen, Linlithgow, Ecclefmacheni UphaH, Liring- ftone, Whitcburn, and Shotts. Towards the north-caft, the parifh i^ high and hilly : Bathgate hillS| which are covered with green, are a continuation of Cuckold Roy and Cairn Naple in the pariih of Linlithgow, and are fome of the high- eft grounds in this part of the country. Towards the fomb* eaftj fouthy and weft, this diftriA is flat» and almoft level.
&//. — About the fi>ot of Bathgate hills, the foil is good, and tolerably dry ; on the ibuth and wefb fides of the town of Bathgate, which ftands on a fteep fiope, the grouiid is bleak and wettifli, but not unhealthy; nor are there any par- ticular difeafes to which the people are liable. The foil, in general, is pretty deep ; and neither fo fertile as the country lying eaftwardj nor fo barren as that lying to the weft and fouth.
Mimrals'^^k confiderable quantity of firee-ftone, of Varioos ^^lity, IS dug from open quarries in the j^xilh. A Iiih^* ftonc rock, thirty feet deep, the ptopcrty of the Earl of Hopt* loun, Mr Maijoribanks, and Mr Pkterfon Shairp, affords ei« cellent lime ; 20 hands are urually employed in the quarry^ and burning lime. Several kinds of fpar, and fhells of va- rious fortSi are fometimes met with in it. A fmall vein of filver ore was found in this rock a few years ago, but it was too inconfiderable to bear the expence of working, A largi^ field of iron-ftone, of a fuperior quality, was lately wrought by the Carron Company in the lands of Barbachlaw, in thb pariOi. There is abundance of coal in feveral parts of this diftriA. In one of Lord Hopetoun's collieries near Bathgate, there are feven different Teams of coal, from fcven inches to feveo feet thick ; the deepeft feam, at prefenty is 40 fathom deep. In this work 20 coal miners are conftantly employed ; each of whom works from 1 5 to 25 loads a day. The load IS 12 Unlithgow pecks, and fells on the hill at 6d. the great, and 4 d. the fmall coal. The whole number fupported by this coUieryi including miners, bearers, &c. Is 95 ^ of whom 30 are children incapable of working. There is, befidesi an inexhauftible quantity of mofs in the parifh ; h that many of the farmers and cottagers burn peat, at lead in part. I'he great iticreafe of the village of Bathgate fince 1750 has been chiefly owing to the collieries ; to which caufe, alfo, muft be attributed the great influx of poor into this town and neigh* V)urhood«
Agriculture, Isfc. — Oats, barky, peafe, beans, turnips, po« tatoes, cabbages, flax, and iomctimes carrots, are the chief produce of the pari(h. Nearly about two-thirds of the 1200 or 1300 acres of arable land in the parifli are (own with oats^ the reft moftly with barley, peafe, beans, and potatoes; wheats
turnips^
35« Sta^fikal AtMmt
tnniipt^ tec. are only in finall qmnddct. The bailey harvest ^ in ordinary years^ begins about the latter end of Angvift, or banning of September; and the peafe^ beans, and oats, ioH mediately follow ; this produce being generally fix for one* There may be between 400 and ^00 acres of hay from ibwn grafs, as alfo confiderable pieces of natural meadow 10 the parilh i the lad is generally cut about the beginning of Ao- guftj and the former early in July. Moft kinds of trees which ufually grow in Scotland are to be found here ; fuch as the a(hj elm, beech, oak, and the different forts of firs. In the pariih are about 320 milch cows, 700 young and old black cattle, 250 horfes fit for labour, about 60 more from i to 3 years old, and not above 200 (beep.
Rent of Land. — ^There are 68 ploughgates in the parilh. Nany of the farms are let at between 10 s. and 15 s, an acre; fome at 20 s. ; and feveral fmall indofures of 10 or 1 2 acres are let, on leafes of 19 years, at 50 s. and 55 s. an acre. The number of farms have diniinifhed of late, two or three being fometimes let to one perfon, or kept in the proprietor's own hands. Hence, in fome places, there is not a fixth part of the inhabitants there were 20 years ago. A confiderable por- tion of the parilh is inclofed } and feveral eftates have chan- ged their proprietors within the iaft 20 years. The price of land is from 20 to 25 years purchafe of the free rent.
Priits f»f Provjfions.^Tht prefent price of beef, mutton, lamb, and pork, is 3I d. a pound, Dutch weight $ the two former often rlfe^to 4 d. per lb. and the Iaft is but juft begin* ning to come into general ufe in this part of the country. A fucking pig is ufually fold for as many foillings as it is weeks old. Hens and ducks coft from i s. to t s. 6d.( chickens tf d. to 8 d. ; and geefe 2 s. 6 d. to 3 s« each; cheefe fells from
4 s.
4S. to 4$. 6d. aftone^ and butter from 8d. to iod;a' pound: Thefe latter articles, fuch as hens, &c. are nearly- double; and beef and mutton at leaft a third dearer tban they' were 30 or 40 years ago. Excepting mutton and lamb, the pariih is abundantly able to fupply itfelf with provifions $ to<)^ there is ufually a confiderable quantity of beef, barley, butter^ and cheefe, fent out of it. At Batbgite, there is a regular
fleih market twice a week. '
f
Prices of Labour, — Day labonrersi wages are 1 s. a day ;* mafons, carpenters, and bricklayers from i s. 6d. to is. 8d.| taylors, when they work out of their own houfes, 8 d. and> vijlnals. A maa who can hold the plough well, and mow, ' &c. will receive L. 8, or perhaps L. 9 ; and the ordinary wages .of men fervants for threfhtng, carting, &c. is about L. 7 a year. They ufually hav^ their viQoals in the hoofe, * or, inflead of thorn, two pecks of oat-meal, and 6 d. for kitchen * weekly. The female fervants for hulbandry have generally L. 3"for their yearly wages; and it is the' common practice, with very few exceptions, to hire (ervants by the half year. • The domeftic and farm fervants in gentle** mens families have, perhaps, from L. i to L. 2 a jrear more than thole employed hf fivmers. The farmers, in general, ' keep no domeftic fervants, except, perhaps, fometimes one woman in harve(^ employing their children in the Inifinefs of the farm, both within and withoiit doors*
Implements of Hti/bandry.'^T[it plough univerfally tiled,' till within the hft two or three years, was the old Scottifli l^ought drawn: by 4, 6, and fometimes 8 cattle; a of which, when there were 6, and often 4, when there were 8, were
oxei^
f Soe this word erplftmed in a former note, page 218.
^•r StMtjftkat Jkcman
qxcQ. SmalTs chain plough, drawo by z horfesaiid a Dxeo« c# bjF 2 bodesy or bjr 2 oxen alonci Is now beginning to be ufcd i Ukdi wjbcre it is ditawa onl . by. 2, there is fcldom any driver. There ore no waggons ; and only 2 four-wheeled chaifcs in 4icf»riih* ,
Fapt/la/m. •^Tht population has advanced confiderably within thefe 40 years. The returns to Dr V\ ebfter, about 175O1 were 1594 inhabitants } at prerent they are 2309, 984 tp%l4s» jMid 1325 ft;mal4Qs •, snaking an mcrcafe, fince that pe- riod, of above 700. About 1400 people refidc in the village of Bathgate, and 900 in the country part of the pav'ifh ; ia the former are 327 married couptes, and 113 u^oaarried per« Tons llho keep houfei and in the latter are 12a married couples. In the 20 j^ears preceding Janua^ 1 790^ it appears there were 1142 baptijed, and 771 buried 1 and for 10 years prcccdhig January 1734, there were 4i£baptifed| nuking an annual avenge of 41^ birtlis iathe lattci: cafe, and, in the former, of 57^^ births, and ^{84^ deaths. There are about 21 mfliiriages every year, and cach.o^rriage may produce about 5 children. Qf the 2309 ^^i^bitapts, 1989 attend the SftaUi&ed Churih $ about 320 are Sece^ei^i and 3 are of the £pifcopal perfu^KHi. In tboj ptar^h are 27 heritors, 10. of whom refide; a clergj^men, (thc.eftabli(bed minifter, and the pftftor of a.9qrgher congregation)). 4 furgeons i 3 writers ; about 12 years ago there wa« on^.j wrii^c^ and ho had lefs buGnefs than any one of the three now has ; 7 merchants or ibopbeopersi 2 ftudtnts of divinity, lad i of medicine $ 255 meebaoks, of whom yo are appreatioes) 55 &rmers, in cnch ofi. whoTe families .there are, at aii average 9 or xo pcrfons, of who(A 3 are gfineraUy hired fcrvante;
Ecckf$aftUal StaU — ^Thc value of the living is worth, flriw-
mumtur
mmiihis annij^ L. i lo or L. 112, ineluding the glebe ^nd 4 chalders of ti£tuaL Th^ church was built in 1^39 ; the manfe is an old building, frequently wabting. repairs. The Earl of Hopetoun is pati'on.
Podif', — iThfc number of poof who receive alms from the pariih is 48, whith is a much fmalltfr numbed than ufaah The funds that fopport them arife from the colledions at the chufch doors, fees for proclamation of banns^ add for the mort-doths ; and from a general afleflment of the parifli^ which, ever ^hct 1783, has been nearly, and fome years con- fiderably aWe, L. 100 per annum, owing to the confequen^ ces of the fcatdty in 178 2^ as will be immediately mention* Cd.
Amine m 1782* — tn the y^r 1782, the fcafcity of graia Was fo gr^t, that oat-meal fold for no lefs tlhah JL 2 : 2 : 0 the load { 1 6 flone). Not only the ordinary poor, but the fa» mili^ft of many labourers who were before decently fupported, muft have periihed for wantf without ettraordioary afliftance. NotwithflaiMltng all chat wasdone for them, many of them accumolited fo much debt, that, m 1783, they were in little left dlft^s than in 1 7^2* That public calamity was flow- ed by feveral important confequcQces to this pariih. Many were then admitted upon the poor's lift, who before that pe- riod fupported themfelves, but ever afterwards they have tleeded affiftance. For the immediate relief of the pOor, the parochial food, amounting to . about L. 2oo» was fpent in buying me^i which was given to feme, and fold at a low 'price to others. In con&quence of the increafed numbmof ' neceffitotfs peribns, and the want of the ii^terel^ of the L. 200, •a he^^vy anmial afieffinent was laid on the pariih; and, fince 'ihii took; placei the coUejlioos at the church door do not VeiJfH^ . ; : ; .TX. ., ; amount
3S4 ^Stattflkd Jkamnt
•mount to a third of their ferfncr nfaal fiiau For dctoi years preceding December 1 7839 the average o£ the difboHe* mentt lor the fupport of the poor» not indading the interefr of the L. 200 above mentioned^ wat L. 51 ftrmmuam b«r lor fi« jeart ftllowiog that period, the annual fiim diflniiM amoontedron an average, to above L. yyi.
Vilhge rf BmAgfiU.^hk the inllageof Bathgate are about 469 houfesy or roomti oecupied by ieporate ^uniliet, whereof a^ are uninhabited. The total rental of the towuj gardensy and ibme fmall' pieeef of ground, amounts to L» 61^1 14 : o jyr amuim^ and the ipean rent off a houfe or room comes to ao s. a year. Bathgate was prt of the eittenlive poflcffioos given in 131^ by King Robert Bruce, at the dowry of his daoghtier La^y Mat«gery, to Walser, Ifigh Steward of Scot- fimdj who had one of his pfincipal refidenocs at thb piace, where he died in rsaS*: Some tMcts of his manfioa may yet ic feen in the middle of a nioni6 or lodi* about a quaiter of m mUe diftant from the town ; and feveral cauiewaya leading CO it will remain^ Hewn iloiica have been finoqoently dug fiom the feundnion of is, as alfo fome kitcbea otenfib of copper or brafs ^ and feveral coffins of §ag flooes, in liune of iriiich were copper cmas,r have huriy been* ploughod t^ in the adjacent groinds%
Aft( a9id&^gmeitfLaiot$rerT.-^Tb€ common people here Aibaitonoaf oaeal, peafe meai^ bstky, potatoes, milk, chiefly %otter miBbi greens, a'littk butter and dieefe, fonEMtimes the ofUfe of beef, mutton, kmh, orveaI,oaafiaaUpteeeof beef, «nd, on apirtieu&r ocoafibn, » fegof lamb or veaL For three quarters of the year, potatoes conftttiue nearly two^ &irds of the %od of a labburing man'k fiMnily. It it not caly to ftate die eipencc of fudi a fiunilf 1 but it it ^b&Mt to
%e aifpatefli^iat upon 5 s. a week, (for tmtS veij latdy thef liiad no higher wages), and what the wife could earoi wluch^ at ad average, could not be above 2 s. a week, many of theol liave brought up familiet decently. They have not only pro* 'vided food and raiment for themfelves and 3, 4, or 5 chil* xlreOf but have paid for teaching their fons to tcad, writer .and fometimes arithmetic^ and .their daujhton ^o read, and ^fien to few and write.
jUvantaga md Difadva$gUigm^-^Thc parifli, m general, haa many, perhaps more advantages within itfelf than moA other parifhes, and the people are in general induftrious, oecono»> mical, happy, and contented with their £tuatjon: But (HH jnuch might be done ^ better their drcumftances, were foch 'branches df manufafture as the place b calculated for, efta* bliflied and carried on by fcrfons of experience, ability, and fpirir. The only manniaftures at prefent are a brick «and tile work, and a tannery, all on a fmall fcalei befide a tallow chandler who carries an a pretty cbnfiderable trade. About ao hands ase employed tn ihefe branches*
Jheratms in thi Mmtfur^liwig. — ^A p«at alteration bi the manner of living ioM ta^ken place in this parifli within the Jaft 40 years. About 1750, there were not above 10 fomi- <ies who nfed*tca, and now, ^peihaps, there is not above *twke ibat number who do not vSt it. Butter meat was thes I
not more nfed than tea;: ScaKely any cattle or flieep weae lilkd, except at Martinmas, when fome fomiUes nfod-to (alt a whole, or others only a part of an ok or cow, to Icrve for j
vrinter provifion *| but now there is a regular flefli market twice a week, and almoft every iamS^, who can afibrd it^eata Iflefli conftantly. A mudi greater quantity of whcaten bread ia
/ • Thisfraake is fometimes gill ceatiaoed.
35^ StatiJlUalJccount
bow confumed In the pariih in st month, than was in a tweke* month forty years ago. The alteration in drefs fince 1 750 is alfo )xinarkable. When the good man and his Tons went to kirk, market, wedding, or burial, they were dpthed in a home fpun fuit of freezed cloth, called keb^ pjadden hofe, with a \A\xc or brown bonnet \ ^d the good wife aqd her daaghtcrs were dreffed in gowns and petticoats of their own fpinniog| with a cloth cloak and hood of the fame, or a tartan or red plaid. But now, the former, when they gQ abroad, wear fuits of EngUPi cloth, good hats, &c. \ apd the latter the fincft printed cottons, and fomctitnes fUk gowns, Alk caps, and bon- nets, of different ihapes, fizesi and colours, white dockings, (cloth (hoes, &c.
i!adu£r.— :The turnpike rpad leading from the iron works At Cleugh to Borrowftounnjcfs runs thropgh the parifli, a$ alfo a branch from the great road between Edinborgh and Glafgow by Whitburn« Confidering the gre^it number of coal and lime carts daily Qn then), the roads are in pretty goo4 order. They were originally made, as well as kept in repair, moftly by the ftatute labour, w)iich is fomettmes commuted, but chiefly e^£^ed in l^ind, at the difcretion of the overfeer. Each ploughgate of land |s obliged to work at the rate, pr pay ia s. per annum s and the village of Bathgate pays a con* ^derable fum for repairing the roads, though the ftr^ets of (|i^ tpwn are in yery bad order*
^VVSe
of otirdriraen " ^^f
J I
N U M B ER X2CXVIU, . . PARISH OF STI^ANRAER,
B} tbe Rev. Mr ]qh}H QoTJUTZt^
Situation^ and Defcripthn tfthi -Town and Loeh.
STRANRAER^ a royal bbrough, and the feat of a prcf- bytcry of the fame ntimc. 'It is governed by a provoft, two bailies, a dean*of-guild, and fifteen coanfellors, and is the chief town of that diftrift of Wigtonflrirc, called the Rhyns, coin{)rehending the maritime parilhes of Kirkmaiden, Stony- kirk, Inch, Glenluce, Stranraer, Fort Patrick, Lochfwalt, Kirkhoim, and the moorland pari(b of Ncwluce. -The town of Stranraer is ituated at the head of Lochryan. As to the origin of the name, little but conjecture can be advanced ; yet, as all this country was comprehended in the antient kingdom of Galloway, and inhabited by a tribe of Celts, it is probably of Gaelic origin. Lochryan, on which the town ilands, is a moft beautiful, as well as a fafe and commodious bay. It is about lo Engliih miles long from north by weft to fouth by eaft ; the entrance into it is nearly two miles broad \ it is bounded on the eaft by the pariih of Ballan- trae^ in Airfhire } and on the weft by Millar Point> a head- land, or promontory, in the parifh of Kirkhoim. About three or four miles from the mouth of the loch, on the eaft fidC| is the little village ef Gsiirn^ belonging to Mr Dunlop of
Punl9|«.
35^ SUttf^calJoMml
Dualop. OmtigQoiis to this village is a verj <afe and com* modioiis hvff witk good aachoring gnmadj and depth of wa* ter fufficient for (hips of any harden ; and all vefleb entering intoj or coming out of the Frith of Cljde flj to it for flidtcr horn ftoitns. Ei^g William's fleet anchored here in their paffi^e to IrcUAd. Oppo&ie to the vHbge of Cain, in the Kirkhohn fide, a fand bask^ called the Sear^ runs a confides nUe way crofi the lech from N. W. to S. B. To prevcat their runniqgibul of this bank, Tcfleiskecp pretty near the «aftikore« Few accidents have ever happened on this hiak. It emi cootribntes confideiaUy to the lafietjr of the foothera part of the bay, breaking the foice of the tide by the direc* tion in wfakh it lies. This bank aboonds with oyften of i moft excellent flavoor. They are fbnnd indeed all rooad the Ihores, and m^ht be got m great qoantitaes woold people drag for them. At prefent th^ are only gathered at low irater, in fpring tides, for a fcw months In the fpring. Loch* ryan immediately fpreads out, on both fides, into a very beia* 9fhX drcnlar figure, esteading about four miles in breadth* Befides the Cairn B9, there are feveral other good anchor* log bays in the loch; foch as Portmore Bay, a litde withia the loch 00 the- weft fide ; the Wig, joft on the weft fide of the Scar i the Bay of Solebum, at the mouth of a little r!v»* let of the lame name, about two miles ibuth of theScari and the Bay of Dalmennock on theeaft fide, about two miles above the Cairn. In flaort, the anchoring ground is good, sod fafe every where throi^h the whole loch. A variety of fifiii as fljue, flounders, fmallcod[, hiiddocks, whitings, fobften sod crabs, and fometimes turbot, are caught wkhin the loch. Be* tween the mouth of the loch and the Rock of AHUa, and to the weft of Millar Point, along the ihores of Kirkholm, the cods and haddocks are larger, ai|d of a moft excellent quali- fy. Put tl^efe fiihin^ ^und|> Ijinfj; at u or 15 mSes frcun
thf
cbc tovsb dm only be reTorted to In cdm JettM fveadftr f lience the inhabitants are not i^ weB, or lb r^fgubrlf ftiptdlid with fiflij as mi^t be expcAeil from thefitnationof the town* The herring Miery ihaH be nentibned afterwards^ Stian- vaer has no artificial harbo«ir. Ships of 300 tons bnrdea eaii come ta what k called the Road, aboot half a mile from the town. Vcflels of 60) eren of tet> tons, tre<pxntlj anchor clofe by the houfes. At high f^ing tides the water rifes ^ the town 10 feet perpendicular]^, and svrtres atorig « psutfy decliniDg, fmooth, fandy beach, toaboiit* a rfrnttr of a imiA diftance. The aachoragdis good and ftfe t^trj where. A» ftrong N. or N* W. wind, accompanied with 1^ high tide, are the only clrcumftancd that can, in the leaft deginee, ea^ danger vtEkh anchoring tn the road^ or near thcf towm The town is di^ed, nearly In the middle, by a Httte rindel, oter which there are feveral ftone bridges. The saftle,. now nn* inhabited, is a whin-ftone building, with free-ftone corners and windows, of confideraUe height, and ftiB> very iiibftan>-^ tiaL The faandfome town*hottfe and priibn, buift abonc eighteen years ago, with the many new houfes built within she fame time,, and welt finiihed, add grsady tw the beauty of Che ftreets. New houfo, fioiihed in a flyte that would nor diigrace eren fbme of our richer and more popokms tewm» are rifing every year, and demonftrate the inereafing opulence and taftc of the inhabitants.. The fixation of the town is cfteemed very healthy ;. and the good health commonly ea^ joyed by the inhabitants fully juftifies this opinion. The mth ter, though drawn fexn welb, is good f the Vir pm^y and free from logs ^ the winters generaH^ mild^ eiMepsMven the wind blows from the N. or N. If. The laborious part c^ the inhabitants^ expofed to the fe^rhy of many a winter's ftorm, to ram and fnow, while following their occup:(tIons at f^ hmt femetiines tod much reafon tV coinplain of rheu^
Biatic
f^S^ SuayUeaLAcmnt
ptim; The progrefii and ravages of the foall pox have b«tn 0iu<h checbe4 by moculation, which is frequently prac-^ tiied both in tbt town apd in'tbe country. Many of the in- habit^nt^ have reached the age of eighty, and oioety years and njnirards. ;,...:.
. • , ' • .,.'..♦,' * •» •
XrfaJioui FyberUs.^hi^tht jcxt I7($4 (here were only |w^ Vffi^lf. belonging tp the town^ of 30 or 35 Ions each ; bm nowt the to^n^g^ •/ ..fhe piprt is about laoo tons, compo- ied oC ve^]^ fr^ixi.i^. or ao to 100 tons each; there is one of upwards ^ 150 tons.? ;*Tkis flapping is gienendly employed IP |h|sdiffere|it, branches of the coti^g^^tnHl^ and in the .Jiffcing fi(h^/ This laft branch of trade wis pa(hed with greatTncceffi for many, years by the inhabitanu of Stranraer ; but,, for the laft fcven pc eight y^v?, they have hecn greatly difcouraged by want of faccefs* Lad leafon^ only fix or feven TdSTels went to the Higldand fifhcrjrt. and returned with Tcry poor cargoes $ ^mc with onl^.3 or 4 barrels j and none with more 4han a quarter cargo ;iFor^erly i<Sor 17 veflels have gone out and rctur^pd fqll l^clcn^ . Bepdes the coaftiog trade iiiid.fiQiery, fome of the .largeft yeflcls. have lately gone an- nually t0 Norway, Cottei^burgh, and the Baltic, cither on frtightg or on account of their owners here. Confiderahk quantities of deals, ;planl^ large timber, and iron have been imported. Thefe- articles ; are difpoTed of. in the country and town for buildings ^ &c*j a gr^at part of them is en> ployed in (hip-building. The herring £(hery in Lochryan was formerly vcfy coi^derahle ; Bpats-.and bufles flocked thi- ther 4di.gteat numbers from jevery tjuarter^ the inhabitants of every d^cnption fonnd ^p^yment, ^qd wealth poured in . upoa.thenu The .fiihcry is now much decreafed. The her^ ; rings make their appearance generally foipe time in Septem- bcri continue two or three months, appearing and difappear-
mg
tf Stranraer. 361
''Ixxg at intervals. They yield a fcanty and temporary fbpply to the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood. What is caught anfwers prefent demand, but could not be offered to lale in any foreign market.
Stranraer, being the chief town of the diftriA, is reforted to by the inhabitants of the neighbouring parifhes for fuch neccflarios and comforts of lifej as their farms cannot fumiih, their fencies may demand, or their purfes afford. There are, however, too many retailers of whiiky, both Ucenfed and un- Iicenfed The effe£b of it are the iame here as every where cUe, VIZ. idlenefs, and the ruin of the health and morals of the lower fort of people. 24)4^^ gallons of whiiky» and o- ther Britifh fpirits, were imported into this place in the courfe of the year 1790 \ and it has been aflerted as a fa£l, that, in the courfe of the fame year, near L. 5000 Sterling was drawn *from this town and the neighbouring parifhes for wiuiky a« lone. The health and morals of tue people, and the popula« ttou of the country, all of which are hurt by the pernicious lubit of dram-drinking, are of infinitely more importance to a ftate than the produce of the tax.
The fpik-it-of improvement, altho' only lately introduced into this country, advances rapidly. About 60,000 Carlifle bufhels of lime (each buihel containing three Winchcfter bufhels), were imported into this diftrift laft year from Lame and White- haven ; for there is no limcftone in the country. The quan« tity commonly laid on an acre is 55 or 60 Carlifle bufhels ; the price at the ihore 13, 14, or i ; pence a bu(hel \ hence Weighty crops of barley, oats, rye-grais, and clover, are raifed, where, not many years ago, weak grey oats could fcarccly be fccn. Some judgment of the ftatc of agriculture in this di-
VOL.X Za ftrift
|
362 StatifticM Auount |
||
|
firiA may be formed from the annexed Table of the £zp(ats |
||
|
«f grain for fcven years preceding January |
1791. |
Quartcn. |
|
Grain fent coaftwife in the year 1784 |
. 7880 |
|
|
1785 |
• S«54 |
|
|
1786 |
.. 2766 |
|
|
1787 |
• 4382 |
|
|
1788 |
• 85 «$ |
|
|
1789 |
. 454 1 |
|
|
1790 |
• 7743 |
4C98I This makes an average of $854 quarters, annually export- ed» or carried coaltwife. What is entered for exportation at Purt Patrick is not hicluded in the above abltra^. Potatoes are cultivated to a great extent through the whole dilln^ Above 100 tons oi them have been exported iince the com- mencement ot this year, i hey form a very great anv im- portant article of food, efpecially to the poor fort of inhabi- tants } 6 d. or 7 d, per buihel 19 an average price for expec- tation.
Tanning is a confiderable trade here. There are tvo annual fairs in the parilh ; one in the beginning of M^y^ the other ia the beginning of September^ While a friendly conne^oa fubfifted between Great Britain and America, great quantities of Galloway plaiding (a courfe fabric, fitted for the Virginia market) was fold at the laft of thcfe fairs* This was the Itaple manufa£lure here \ and it brought into the countiy near JL 3000 annually. But the demand for this article cea- fing at the commencement of hollillties, the trade was aban- doned. To it has fucceeded the raifing of flax in greater quantities than fbrmerlyi and working it up into courfe Uncns.
It
• 9f Stranraer. ^ 363
h is hroaglit to market, both green and bleached, and is bought up chiefly by merchants from Glafgow and Kilmar- nock, The iobjoined i able, taken from the ftamp-mafler's books, ihews the itate of this manufacture ior the lail three years.
Yards* Value.
Linen-cloth (lamped in 1788, 28391, L. 1268 14 10 Ditto . - . . 1789, 28662, 1276 14 d
Ditto . . . ry^o, 26991, ii8j 8 3
No unfavourable concluiion muft be drawn from the ftate of lad year, as if the manufacture were declining. For one of the manufaAurers, who is well known to have (lamped a confiderable quantity of linen, being from home, the amount of bis produce is omitted in the account for 1 790.
' The farmers generally export their corn, which produces very ferious coniequences to the inhabitants, as they are obli- ged to purchafe meal at the difcretionary price of the feller. To remedy this fore evil, about twenty years ago, a number of mechanics, countenanced by many of the more refpcCtable and wealthy inhabitants, formed themfelves into an afTocia- tion, whofe objed was to purchafe meal, to be diflributcd weekly to the fuWcribcrs only, tach fubfcriber, at his entry, originally paid five fliillings, (now feven fhiliings and iix* pence), and thirteen pence a year. It is governed by a dea- ron, 9^ be is called, and twelve afTeilbrs, chofen annually. This inftitution has produced very good cftcfts. The fubicri- bcrs, and the poor in general, are regularly fupplieu at a price rather below the rate of the country. Their ftock is now a- bout L. 140 Sterling.
/i/r/<— Scarcity of fuel is one of the greeted inconveniencies
which
3^4 StatiHlcal Accrtati
which Stranraer laboars under J he chief fuel ts peat and turf, brought from the diftance of 3 or 4 miles ; pften of a bad quality, and always high priced. Many of the inhabitants bum coals in their rooms. Thefe are brought from Air or Irvine by fea« and coft the purchafer about fourteen pence the herring-barrel, including the price of leading from the fliore. A family, keeping only a regular fire in the kitchen, and another in a parlour, muft expend fix or feten guineas 1 year for firing alone. Would parliament take t>flr the du7 upon coalit carried coaftwife, the improvement of this town, and the neighbouring country, would advance with incoo- ceivable rapidity. The late Earl of Stair made fevcral unfuc- celshil attempts to find coal in the neighbourhood.
Church and Stipend^ — A new, commodious, and even ele- gant church, was finiflied in 1785, at a very confiderable expence. 1 he ftipend is, at an average, about L. 60 Ster- ling, payable in meal and money, as modified in the year 1649, and confirmed by a new decreet In the year 1696. One of the preceding incumbents, Mr Walter Laurie, left ' fome parks in the neighbourhood, and a houFe in the town, to his fuccefibrs for ever, to fupply the want of a glebe and manie. Fhe parks arc about 30 acres } they hold of Mr Vans Agnew, and pay L. 3 : 1 1 : i^-* as feu and teind. The houfe was rebuilt in 1761. To Mr Laurie's munificence the minifler of Stranraer is indebted for the tolerably decent man- ner in which he lives. The minifler has a right alfo to the vicarage teind of the herrings taken in Lochryan, by the in- habitants of the town and Clayhole, at the rate of the twen- tieth herring: But this depending on a fubjeft to preca- rious in itfelf, and fo difficult to be levied, can never be pro- duAive. The prelcnt minifter may truly fay he has not, on an average, received lost a year from this fource. He ilhis
admitted
if Stranraer. * 365
•idmitted miniftcr in 17721 and is the third mlnifler fiucQ the Revolution.
At the eaftern extremity of the town's jiiHrdiftion is a re- ceding meeting-houfe, Monging to the AntiburgherSy feat* tered over the whole Rhyns. There are 443 perfonb on the examination roll of this congregation. . There are tvto oth^rr ie&aries, Smeatonites and M^MilUmites^ but they are not nu« mcrous.
School. — ^The magiftrates built a very convenient fchooU houfe a few years ago. The fckoolmal^er's ialary is L. 1 1. The number of Icholars 60 or 70. With quarter wages, ar.d fhe different perquifites commoaly annexed to the office, it mamj be worth between L. 40 and L. jo a year* Thc*re arc Ibme private fchools alfo } fome of them pretty auuierous ia Icholars. * '
iW.— 'The town is opprefled with Irifli vagrants, who c€Hne over in crowds, and lodge in the fuburbs and neighi)our- ing cottages ; and, be&des occafionat depredations on proper- ty, levy very heavy contributions from the humanuy of the in<» habitants. The poor are fupplied from the weekly colledtoas ) from the intereft of a capital of L. 20c, accumulated : from different legacies; and from an annual benefajlion of the Earl efStair«
P^»Ai/ir/i— The return made to Dr Wcbfter of the po^ polation of this town, about 40 years ago, was only 649 fouls ; but now, according to a very accurate enumeration of the in- habitants recently made, thtre were, at the beginning of the year 1791, no lefs than 1602. Of thefc, 1276 were 8 years of age and upwards i 260 below 8 1 and 66 fedUries of diffe-*
rent
$66 Statifiical Acctma
rent denominations. In 1780, there were io;o abote & ye*r«. Children b<-Iow this age, and fe^laries, were not in^ eluded in the enumeration then taken *.
AbftraA of Marriages and Baptifms from ift Jannary 1780.
Married in 1780
- i78i> . 1782
178:?
. 1784
i7«f
178^
— - '787
1788
1789
1790
9
9
7 10
>i
12 II 12 10 21
9
Baptifed
4> 4* 4* 41 38 3« 3« 43 48 4« 3<5
The regifter of barials cannot be depexuied on,
!!/»/.— The rent of houfes is in proportion to their fitui- tion and convcniencies. The land contiguous to the tovni on the eaft and fouth, is in the parifh of Inch, and belongs to the 'Earl of Stair ; that on the fouth-weft and weft to Mr Vans Agnew, and is in the parifh of Lochfwalt. It is dU Tided into fmall inclofares with turf fences, to accommodate the inhabirantSi and is let at various rates^ from 20 s. to a guineas an acre*
Prkei
• Two villages, Claybole and Hill-hcad, belonging to the parifh of Lochfwalt, are fo clofcljr joined to Stranrjer, being feparatcd from it only by an ideal hne, that ihcy may bt, and indeed often are, coniidered> efpcciaUy by flraogers» as piyjl o£ the towa. They contain about 500 inhabitants.
* ^ Stranra0r4 $6j
, Fricii of Proinfiorts and Labour.-^The^ price of oat-xneal it about 1 s. 6d. or 1 s. lod, a (lone. The fcarcity pccafion- cd by the bad and late harveO of 1782 was lefs fcverel; felt in Stranraer than in moft places* The late Earl of Stajr, and fome cf the more wealthy inhabitants, proctired meal early in the feafon, at a reaionable pricej and fold it at 2 s. a (lone ; 70 or 80 poor families in the town were indeed iup« plied at i s. 8 d. a ftonc. The price of good becf| laft Martinmas, was 2 J d. and 2^ d. a pound, of 16 ounces, when taken in whole carcafes, or by the quarter ; mutton the fame; they are now 3 d» and 3 } d. ; veal 4 d. $ lamb, when plenty, 2^d*and 3 d. ; falmon, from Glenluce and Ballantrae, 2d. a pound ; butter 8 d. a pound, of 24 ounces ; eggs 2 d. a dozen ; fowls 8d. ; geefe, at Martinmas, is. or is. ad. a piece; a turkey as. 6d. or 3s. ; rabbits 5d. a pair without the ikins ; water fowls at reafonable prices } fea fiOi, fold by the hand, is extremely cheap. Little cheefe is made in this country, and is of the pooreft kind ; it fells at 4 s. the ftone, of 26 pounds. A labourer's wages are i s. a day for nine months, and 9 d. or 10 d. the reft of the year ; a mafon's is. 6 d. or I s. 8 d } a houfe carpenter the fame ; a taylQr 6 d. with, or 1 s. without viAuals.
Roads* — ^The great road from Carlifle to Portpatrick goes through the town. This road was made, and is kept in re* pair, by government. Government has alfo given a fum of money to finifh fome crofs roads, which, when finiflieJ, will render this county as eaiy of accefs, botii from England and from Airfliire, as any county in the ifland. The mail coach from London paiTcs through the town every day ; a diligence from Air to Portpatrick pafles thrice a week. The other roads in the diilriA are made, and kept in repair, by the con*
verfion
368 SfaHftical Aeemaa
^erfion of the ftatute labour, ar the rate of i^s. for every L. I CO valued rent The principal ones are in good order.
MifiiUaniotis Obfervathns -*^trangers<» ftmck with the beau- ty of (ius liiuatioOi and the many advantages that forcibly oi^ tru/c che«iJeive& on their eye, are forprifed to hear that no inarw:t.idture« arc citablitticd here; but the fcarcity and high ^icc ot tiiei mult be an eternal barrier to the eftaUifhmeat of any cxttolive qianufadture in the town or netghbonrmg cou4i: V » yet (here are very good artificers of every kmd^ who iuppiy tnc UciuAuds of the inhabitants and neighbours*
. A great number of the young nien are bred up to the fea. When the Hon. Keith Stewart was appointed to command ihe Berwick Ufl war, 70 or 80 volunteers from this town and neighbourhood entered wkh him.
The only natural curiofity in this parifh is St John's WeD, coniid'jrahly within high water mark. It is flooded every tide by the Tea ; and in five minutes after the tide retires^ it boSs tip m a copious Ipring of excellent foft frefh water.
NUM.
Dumber tssxl.
PARISH OF KETTLE. ^ the fy^. Mr Pbtee Barclit*
Name^ Situathn^ and Extent »
KING'S KETTLE, formerly called Catul, or Katol, h fituated in the county of Fife ; in the preibytery of Cupar, and fynod of Fife. The origin of the name is uncer- taiiu It is, however, proved l^ authentic records, that the lands of Kettle were once the property of the crown, and were afterwards fued in 8 divifions, in perpetual tacks, at the rents then received \ wluch are flail paid to the King, under the name of Crown Rents. Kettle is bounded by Falkland on the Weft ; by Markinch, Kennowsy, and Scoonie, on the fouth ; by Ceres, Cult, and CoUeffie, on the eaft } and by Aughtermiiclity on the north. The parifh coOtaina fibme- what oaore than 9 fqnare miles, it is of a curved oblong figure, narroweft towards the weft 1 in length, from eaft to weft, nearly 8 miles \ and in its greateft breadth a little more than % miles. The village of Kettle is fituated in the flat of the flnith,Tather low and wet, on the fbuth £de of the Eden | the floods of which reach to tlic ikirts of the village* Btil« makohn is fituated about a furlong ibuth*eaft, at the foot o£ the rifing ground ; and the food Iqr Cupari b€twpqip«thc Fortia ¥oJm L 3 A aiMl
^y0 Sta0ical Accoum
and Tay, runs through it. Coalton is on tbt brae hcadF abort if I and is clayey,
&f7, and Sufface.^^^Tht \HargtOi and moft Taloable part of the parifli lies in the courfe of that ftrath which extends from Ktnfofs to St AndMws. Hese the fur&ce is level ; bat towards the fouth, fouth-ea((, and fouth-we({ of the village, which is nearly in the center of the pariflii it becomes bkak and hilly, including thcf higher groaods which run eaftward from the Lomonds. The hills are in general covered ^th VerdurCj and in fummer afford excellent pafture for all (brts of cattle ; yet, in fpme places, there are many large nigged ftones projefting conGderably above the fur&ce. Woods are only wanting in this pact of the pariih fo rcalife the pocu defcription :
Juffit et exten<& campos, fubfidere vdtes Fronde tegi fylvas, lapidofos furgere moatts.
lie nature of the foil is various. In many places on the banks of the Eden, which nearly bounds the paiilb toward the north, there are exceUent carfe foils ; yet, at a finall di- Aance from them, extenfive beds of fand, with a mooriih, or mofiy furfaee, are frequently found. The ftratum of fimd is in tfiany places covered with a ftrong ftiff day, in others . Ivith a light friable mould* Even in the hilly part of the country, the foil is m general excellent, and of a dark ct« lour*
CUmaii and Di/ia/n.^^Tht clhnate is, ifor the fnoft parti dry and healthy. It is not fubjeA to any local difeafes. Scnne years ago, the ague was frequent in the lower parts of the parifli i but, for the laft ae years, it has almoft entirely d^
..appeared.
^ Ketite. 571
,arppeared i owiogi moft probably, to the many dnuos that liave been made in this and the neighbouring pariihes. The common people 4iFe now peculiarly liable to dropfical fwell- lags of the4imbs« Daring the above mentioned period po»i tatoes have been introduced, and n«w form the principal part of the fuftenance of the poorer houfeholders. It may per« iiaps be fuTpeAed, that this change of diet has produced fome alteration in the conftitutions of the inhabitants.
Rivers, Springs, is^c^ — ^There are no confiderable lakes or rivers in the pariih. The Eden, whofe ftream in fummer is <carcely fufficient for a corn mill, abounds with e&cellent red and white trout, pike, andeek. There are feveral fprings^ fbme of which are fupp^ed to be impregnated with mine- 'Tals. The courfe of the Eden being down a low Arath, ber^ dered on each fide by hills for a confiderable diftance above Kettle, and the river having very little fall, frequently ever- -flowed its banks, fo that the crops on its carfe haughs were always precarious, a plan was prcjcAed of making a cut fo deep as to confine the water ; but it was never executed, owing to the diiagreement of the proprietors of the lands which lye on the oppofite fides of the river. About 10 years ago Mr Johnfton purchaled the whole, and formed the pre- je£led cut on an enlarged plan. A fpacious canal was made for the water, j 2 feet wide at the bottom, and 30 at the tep» fecured on the fides by raifed banks and hedges, which in- clude a rpace of 70 feet in breadth, and ferve to confine the water at high 4oods. This cut has been carried on a confi- derable way, but not with equal efieft, as the dire6tion of the ftream was obliged to be accommodated to the convenience of perfons with whofe property it intciferred. Mr Johnfton^ iince his refidence at Lathrilk in 1783, has built an elegant lioufe on the eltate. He has alfo got feveral of the farms in-
^y% Siatyikal Aecqunt
to his own hand, and has improved thetn ; fubdtTided them snoflly with ditch and hedge, and belts of planting ; adorned them with clumps of trees, and elegant £urm boulcs of two fiories and garrets, covered with Uoe flate, and ligB^d with lead \ all which give more vivacity and beairty to this part of the country than it had before, and f^ill, when the ptaaring is grown up, enliven it much more.
Minerals. — In the farm of Barnrark there is a quarry of free-ftone. It is covered by a Aratum of earth 4 feet thick^ When this is removed, we obferve upon the furface of the rock numerous imprefiions of vegetable bodies, apparemly formed by branches of trees, of various diameters, curioailj ramified and interwoven. The ftone is of the fanie nature with that below, but of a darker cobur, A large piece of petrified wood, and a petrified horn, were lately fotmd here. About a furlong to the eaftward of this quarry, on the dedi* vity of the hill, ibme perfons fearching for minerals difborcr* ed a large mafs of petrified Oiells of various kinds, fome of which were completely filled with tranfparent concretions. The mafs is fituatcd at the lower extremity of a lime-fione rock« The forms of the fhells are moft diftindl on the fur* face. There are not any petrifying fprings in the parifh ; but, in fome places, ftalaAites are formed by the ooziogy of coal water, 'i'hcre is no marble or Hate here } but an almoft inexhauAible abundande of mooir-ftone and firee-ftone, which are of an excellent quality, and ipuch employed in dyking and building. Licpe-ilone of tli^ heft kind is alfo abundant: One quarry at Fortbar, belonging to Ht Fitcairn, phyfician in Lon* don, and farmed by James BIythe, $fqi employs, on an ave* rage, 60 perfons throughout the year, in the different procei^ fss of digging, wheeling away the earth, blowing, and break- ing tlie ftones, and filling the kihis, A great number of mea
and
9f Kettles 573^
attdhprJb are alfo engaged in conveying tbe lime to New- burgh port, for the Gufe of Gowrie, and other ports of Perth(hire, &c. The coals with which it is burnt are brougjit from Balbimie and Balgonie, about 3 miles diilant. A largcs quantity of iroa-ftone» excellent in quality, is found on ieve- ral parts of thefe efiates.
In Bamtark Muir, the flir&ce of which Is a common, an4 covered with heath, coals have long been procured. For want of i>ropcr contrivances to carry off the water, they have not as yet been wrou^t far below the furface. Thefe mines^ which are the property of Alexander Murray, Efq^ of Ayton^ have been let, for the laft 40 years, to Alexander Low, Efq; who is now feriouily engaged in attempting to obviate thofe inconveniencies which have hitherto impeded the working* The coals are of a fupcrior quality, moft of them refembling the oily Newcaftle cosd« There is another ftratum of coal^ but iirferior in quality, at Dovan, belonging to Dr Pitcaim* Coak have alfo been procured at Clothie, en eftate belong- ing to Mr Balfour. Some time fince, when finkmg a (haft to diicover the extent of the coals, fome metallic ores were difcovcred, which have not as yet been efiayed, Whea thrown into the fire, they emit a fulphureous fmell, and in appearance refemble pyrites. The price of coals at Balgonie and Balbimie Hill is 7 d« per 18 ftone Dutch weight.
Churci.'^^Thc annual value of the living, including L.3 i6:i for providing the communion-elements, and L. 2 : 3 : 4 for pafhvage, is L. 5a : 3 : 4 in money, 24 bolls of barley, and 4t bolls of meal. The glebe is one of the poorefl in Scotland, its yearly rent not exceeding L. .a. The King is patron. The number of heritors is a8 ; but only the half of than are foperiorsi the others being feuers. The prefent
miniiler
^4 Statj/Hcal Jccnmt
ininLifter is Mr Peter Barclay, who was (ettled in Mkj 1778. Me is married, and has four fbns and one daughter. Tb& ehurch appears, by a date on it, to have been built in t6^6m It has been twice repaired iince, and is in good conditioiu The manfe is at present in ftich bad order, that it Is intended to move for a new one in the fprisg.
J>c9r. — There are at prefent about 14 perfons who recdvc alms conftantly or occafionaiiy, being almoft all infirm old people. The colledion for the poor has been, fer the laft i z years, L. 16 per annum $ and there is I^ 300 oat at iatereft at 4| per eenin
School* — The UhxnA and matter's hoofe are 10 good repair. The mafter is rather too old for much a£tivify ; bat he has an affiftant of confiderable abilities. The falaiy, with the houfe and feffioa-clerkflup, is about L. 22 a year, befide the fchool-dues, which are, for Englifli, i s. 3 d. } writing, i u 8d«& arithmetic, ti.% Latin, 2 s. 6 d.
Price rfProvifions and ZiaJotfr-— From the vicinity to Edin- burgh, and many coaft towns, provifions are commonly kept at the Edinburgh prices. The grain is always lower than the ioweft Edinburgh or Lothian grain. A day-labourer is paid 10 d. a day, on an aieeragpi a carpenter or maibn IS. 6 d. ; a taylor is.; but the common way of char^g is by the piece. Labourers generally earn about 13 guineas a year ; and their wives, if Induftrious, about L, 7 or L. 8 by fpinningy when not otberwife engaged. The women always fpia with both hands. Domedic men-fervants wages, at aa average, L. 6 \ female fervants L. 2 s 15 : o.
Poptdatiotu.
tfKettU. ^7jf
^(9^fiAi/i0n.— Number of inhabitants by Dr Wob«
fier's account in 1755 • • • i62t
By furvcy in 1778 ..... 1-643
Moles in the parifii in Dec. 17901 above 8 yean old Cy^
under 8 years old 187
Females . » . . '. • abote 8 years old 753
under 8 years old 180
Total inhaUtants in Dec. 1790 . • 1759
Increafe in 12 years • • • 116^
Houfeholders . » . • , • 414
Separatifts ^om th^ eftabllihment above 8 years ^87
Of the eftaUiflim^t above 8 years> ^ • 805
Children under 8 years old • • . 367
Males bom in 12 years, from 1778 to 1790 .. 333
Females • • • • » 32ft
Total born from May 14. 1778 to May 14. 1790 651
Males dead in«thc fame 12 years • . • 200
Females ' • . • • 178
T#l$d<leathsin 12 years . . . 378
Increafe of population frt>m births and deaths . 273 Increafe in faft • • % .116
Perfons who have left the parilh in 1 2 years , 157
Average of males married in 1 2 years « 14J
Offemales . • • 12^
Total average of marriages . • • « 26f
The higher average of males marrying muft be owing to a greater number of them getting wives fr*om other parilhcs than females hulbands. More males are twice, or even thrice, married than females. Women are better qualified, at leaft^ according to the manners of this country, for living fingle than men.
Average
37^ StiMfilcal Account
Average of males born in 12 years . . 26};
Females • • • • • 274-
Total average of births • • • 54^
Average of males dead in la years • • xdf
Females • • • . . 14^
Total average of deaths . . . . • 311
Averageof a family nearly • • • * 4t 30 fiimilies confift only of one iodii^dual.
Kettle village contains of inhabitants • • 516
Balmalcolm • • • • Si
Goalton • • • • • 78
Country part of the parifli • • • 10S4
The mean population may be nearly had by mtdtlplying the average of births by 314- i or the average of deaths by 54 ( or the average of marriages by 64^ ; or the avenge of a family by the number of families. The mean or average po- ptilationi far any time, is the real population increaled ordi* tniniflied by half the decreafe or ihcreafe In that time : Thos, the real ^pulation 17^91 diminifhed by 58^ half the increafe is 1701. But this can only be true on the fvppofition that the increafe or decreafe is uniform. Hie true mean popula- tion mufl be deduced from the following Tablei whidi fdC* fefles many more Importaiit ufes than meitly dctennhttig Che populatioii.
t^Kntk.
S7I
A fable* flieiinag the number dead in a« jean, triz. $25^ ifid the namber who have died at each age.
|
A|r, |
4m<L |
A|t» *>4. |
^n |
dM4. |
Apei |
dMi. |
A«^ M |
|
0 |
SO |
SO 7 |
40 |
3 |
6o. |
10 |
8i> 4 |
|
t |
40 |
SI 7 |
4« |
3 |
til |
10 |
81 4 |
|
i |
35 |
S2 7 |
42 |
3 |
6a |
io |
8a 4 |
|
3 |
20 |
43 d |
43 |
3 |
63 |
io |
83 4 |
|
4 |
«5 |
24 6 |
44 |
r |
64 |
16 |
84 1 |
|
5 |
to |
25 tf |
45 |
3 |
65 |
10 |
85 3 |
|
tf.. |
«r |
26- , |
4<J |
3 |
66 |
Id |
86 a |
|
7 |
^ |
«7 5 |
47 |
3 |
«7 |
to |
ti ± |
|
g |
4 |
«» i: |
48 |
4' |
68 |
l« |
88 a |
|
9 |
a |
29 4 |
49 |
5- ■ |
69 |
10 |
8i) a |
|
!• |
9 |
jo 4 |
5<» |
6 |
70 |
lb |
90 a |
|
ft |
3 |
3« 4 |
5« |
6 |
7» |
10 |
9t 3 |
|
w |
3 |
3a 4 |
5« |
6 |
7a |
10 |
9a % |
|
<« |
4 ' |
33 '4 |
53 |
6 |
• 73 |
9 |
93 * |
|
*4 |
4 |
34* 4 |
54 |
6 |
74 |
8 |
94 . i |
|
«5 |
• 5 |
3'5 4 |
55 |
7 |
75 |
7 |
J<5 « |
|
10 |
5 |
3« 4 |
5« |
t |
16 |
6 |
'.:— |
|
«7 |
«• |
37 4 |
57 |
9 |
11 |
i |
«»l |
|
x8 |
^ |
38 4 |
58 |
9 |
78 |
s |
|
|
>d |
7' |
39 * 4 |
5« |
9 |
79 |
4 |
6a5-^2oai3t.a5 sdttiiom dcath$ in the parilfc; iThl^ !raUej upon triad, is foond to an/Wer better for Skotlm than waf yet {Hiblilhed by Mr WUkfe. ^
By tUi TaMe» there witil be feuod IWtflf (figethtfr aj^^pa (bvls'i ib that, fiippofinl; the sumber of detflb and births p* 5pal» Vo. 6a5 yearly, the population tvoold be a|39a^ Hence i Upland i death would give a population of 4o.d |
Vot. liL. . I B «
%ji Siaii/licalAfCoura
pr^eexpefbtioa of life for a chUd id Kettle -pariOi is 4^
years. Thus, ($25 s 2539;^ ,;:: i ;40.<^ Kettle popalitiosy
by this rule, would be 3i*5+54*25 (i* e. medium deaths and
llicths)^-. Sr2=:s4a.87, vhich X40WI {-^^s 4cdoced fir th«
tiine of' the year in which an iafiint may hchom}f'SKi'ji^
file medium pD^ulatk>ii of 1,2 yeais.
*■*-••' . ••
. BeCd^ the gq^ple ^mploypd ia a manafaAm^j to be meo-
tijned j^tcrw^^s, i^vc any ^'^
Black^ths, includiDg 3 apj^rentlces • «. 7
S^oeinakers^ mcludm^ 2 apbrentites • . « S
T^yloi|^/mclu|ipg4^prcmKes^^ .^ ^. 1 r»
Sutchcn , . . V "" . / 2
JSakers •' • •■ • • 2
CarpeiMrs and wheel wnghts ~ •• • ' • 3
Ijnt-dreQers , . . * 5 • *^ • ' •* 5
Mlafbns, ^ • . •' • '* • " li
Clockmaker ., • v • * • '
CpUier*, about^ . .^ • . . • . .• • "
Hire^feWants, exclu^ye of apprA^^ ^,* . 13©
Qay^abourerSi^ who ..have families, aboii^* • • 09
Crardeners ^ • ^ <>• • ' • 4
*^. C.*-. i>-^ .«. ^ ^
Students at college • • • ' • 4
Shop-keepers \' ^. ^ * . *^ J^* . 3
pemlcmta^s fiunilics .^. . ^ . , 6
Ocrgyjoi yOablillKcd and I r^^^ .* .^ ^* '." - j BatchelorSfnoV including ^QineflTc fervant^,, fu&d'^chirditea
who have not left their Tat'her'^s TiOulc" *" ^' V • '* i#
to *i*i:'8 a? a^ yai'd Is ttiide itr Ari-paiiai't ' a^mtRparif df it 11 1flea(^d'i^ but^the mbff trfi^i^d ai-IF'toiM oitt of tte iobhi^lVlSatter or Aucfa^'d'dstri^/'and ttieiift^Yet^ to Gls£(^
jjbrvf; 'IScM^ iAiTLondmi.' There are ab6ut -17a lotms;
^wUch aae vrdi%ht or fiipcAiteiided'by about 60 mafter*
^rea^ers \ the number of apprentices is i8» tBoA ihf reft of Jtho
workmen ^re journeymen. During their apprenticelhip> or
iHy in tlkir matter's houfes as journeymen^ ^y pay- ^u i
week for boardy and live wonderfully well. 'The axrerage
grofi produce of a loom, including apprentices and old meii
who do little work, is about L. 60 a y^ar, (a good hand wilt
fetch confiderably above L. 100) ; and the aversige grofs ex«»
pence to the matter in lint, fpinning, boiling, working, &c, it
aboot'L. 46 ; 1.5 : o, mott of which is laid out in* the parifll
and near neighbourhood. The looms find employment for
women and children ; and hence, a httHj bcing.advantai
geo«s,.the men jnarry early \ and hence one of -.the principal
caufes.of the increafed population. -T^iis ms^nuf/ifhireciccur
lates above L* io»oop annually \ the greateft.part of which if
broiight into the parUh, as ^U th^ worlq is perforo^dby the int
habitan|3 \ and the greateft part of the raw-imaterial is home
prodw;,e.' Of^the flax^ufed, aljout | i^ Dutch^ and^JEtig^l
the /eft is the prpduce of JCettle. * »
j^ficulture^ Produce^ (5V. — The farms in the paritti are 3^ and the average of Servants on each is 5, viz. j men and ^ women. Mott of the farms have cottages, whence they <)btain aflittance in hay*time and harveft. Befides thefc^ there are many pendictts (pr^tJid/a), partly :let off the £u*ms^ and partly let immediately- >by the proprietory and a great Dumber of fmall ^fe^^s, frbta i to 5 acres^ The farms are very tinequal, both in ficeahd^nt.- The rent of pattufe ground^ is from «4 s. to'^L.'i 15: <>', and of arable land from 5 s. t» L. I : 1 1 i 6''an ' acre^ About 1^ fourth part of the arable ^Qund is ^iclofed) and ^ the advantages of kiclofures is now 1p upiverfally acknowledged, that all new leafes are let on in- ^lofing plans. The fences are ditch and hedge^ or flone* • ' / l.-''. •'•."'- waBs,
3ii SuayikaJkimm
fndby u b moll convenkot or ftniible. iVte popfBPWf Sf ^ the confines of thb and ^ adjoiaiiig pviflwi^ tiidan^ mom oilier the preceb of divifi^n.
Scotch aofs?,
CoBtentt of the ponfli
Of which there ^re, in
Wheat . . « , . «f
Bwlef ,..•'. 360
Oat« • ^ . . • 756
Tlas • . • • • 100
Greeo crop * • ^ • ?oo
Fallow . • . • • 40
FiiUfaire oot arable • . . ^ ifo
Graft lor hay • • • ^ 40a
Arable pafture alter h>7 • • • a970
Plamiog • • « • t t6o
CbmmoQ jet undivided • • « • 65^
Bhck cattle in tjiie pari(h • • • 1050
HoHcs .9 • • • 2^
Sheep of the common kind • • 500
Ploughs . . • . . f6
Carts . , . • . i%% Valued rent in Scots money • L- 6965 : 13 : 4. *
The pariih prodnces both more corn aod cattle than is fii& fictent for its own aMiiitenance* and of courle brings the fur* j»las to market), Wheat is fownt from the middle of Sq^ tember to the cad o{ November ; peafe and beans in the bo* ginning of Marc^i i oats (tm 4ie aaiddle of March lo tba tadof AprUi andbarleybtheasootlh of V>^ Thelw* ^ft gmeraUy hUls dwtt^SeptemlicrW O
^bA£r.-^tatute-Iahoiir fpr die roads is pardr ended in • To ceoTcrt Scolel^ acm iBte Ei^ft MflltUf bf i.»7e)t7}.
kiiMy t^dpoyflycdiuiutt^ A tiini|Ac hill ^ tte cqMqf' uraf obtained bft feS^f and the gcakfeumi of the copeift are ufiog eyefjr exertioii for' SifttiBg k |i| gsfciitiam. -i
^Mfaiiiff {^.r-On l^^ndcn Hill, which Ofprloekt GndU- ton firoxn the caftifardt and cprnmaadt an esftenfiire vieir of the Strath of £daQf fipm Kinrofi to St Andrc^wt Bay, are fiMnc remains of a cifcum¥a|lat]on and rampart, of iHiick* tradition is filcnt. It is of a circular form, and nearly aoer yards iif diaoietfr. Abo^it ba(lf a milp to the eaftwanl is another eminence, wjtl^ ruins of the fame kind en alo liunmit. It is called Down Hill; is the higheft in thepa« pQn and commands the whole Strath of Leren, the Fidht: find she Lothians* From the fituatipn of thelf buildings, thef fttf pro^bly uftd an places of obfer^ a^iop. The Knock of Chithe is a b^utiibl hiU, rifing fmoothly without any appeafiiv aiicc of fortifications. A regular coffin, of fix ftones, wai (bund here (pim time ago, b^ men who were digging Ch^ gra?el. Witkw '^ were hvman bones, and ieveral trinkets^ MMg which. im th/s brafs 1^ qf a fpcar, now in the pof^ fcffion of the Earl of Leven. There are at leaft 8 barsowe in the parilb, 3 of wbkh Ifave fiames ; Pandler's Know, aii4 %/mk^ Know, in Forthar gi»ond \ and Liquorich Stone k9 itcttk ground. Bones haf 0 been Amnd in the reft, Tbem is a traditkm shorn the fipft, that, when diflenfions aaoft bev fween funSies in diffisren^ parts of the country, they met ^lere to deddq their iponteniion by armsi and thofe who Ml were bovfiBd in the toinnlos* The barrair in Forthar b fidd) to liave becnnregnlar place of burial, and'to hsive hadn dundi or ch«pel near il. 9n| of dvs no veftiges are nonr
T^ Iwdi flf QiMb fhifll CQfffiknte tl)e eaft cad of A«
3IH. Suaifiual Aama
]»iMi of Kettk, and dMNigb wbidi by the old : Atpar to Kinghoriit Monged to a bailj of 3rtQfts» wb* trt celebrated in traditionfor Ak moft cnael robheries and imr* ders. The grounds about Clatto Den are ftill defert. In the &oedfthebrae« whidi foriAs one fide of the den, is a cave^ lliat is faid to eommumcate with the old* caftle or tower of QattOy a furlong diftant) the remains of which are ftill vi* £ble. The fame cave is faid to have had another opemng ts iheroadt at which the aflattant mfhed.ooton theheedkft yaKengers, and dragged them into the cavetn^ whence there was no setum. All appearance of a^ave is now oUitcrsttd» hf the breaking down of the banks.' : A fimihr cavern was fiwrnd, not many years ago, at. Craighall in Ceres parifii. Of thefeSeatons many ftories, replete with the iuperftitions of preceding ages, are ftitt current among the country people. One may fuffice. Qne of the Scottifli Rings, faid to be }ames IV. pafling that way alone, as was commow in tho& days, was attacked by a fon of Seoton'^. The King faawng t hanger concealed under his garment, drew it, and with a Uowcut off <he^]ght hand that feized his horfe's bridlk This hand he took up, anA rode off, Keat day, attended ^ a proper retinue, he vifited the Caftle o£ Clatto, ^ifliing m fee Seaton and his fons, who were noted ^ hardy enter* ytifing men, fitted to Aine in a more piAlic*ftaiioik . The old man- conduAed hh family into the King's pretence. . One <bn atoqe was ahfent: It was latf, that he hsd been hurt by iti'acddeBt, and wa^ confixed in bed; -"The KibglnOfted oa Ibsing hiad, and defiredtoioel his pulft; ^tlA young maa hdd^/hts left hand; The King would.fcel the-cithe^ alft. After many ineffefhialisxcufesi^e was^oMi^ecltO'cOflfe^Uiat he had loft his right hand. The King told him that he ind a hand in his pocket, which was at his fervice if it would 6t him. Upon this they, were all Seised U&<kmaHd.* • •
. 0f Katie. ^ 5g5
Aij/cetlaniiysOhf^rvptlans* — ^The.pepple ;ure in. gencTaltchi^ ir^ht^ aod well difpofed. Both living ai^ drds have uii- <lfrgooc a remarkaUe change wUhiix there ao jears^ owing xo the ijofiux' of wealthy afid rife of wages* .Few» >Gwe?ef ^ ijAve, proved infolvent. Fropert]r^ has, in cQn&qiieoce* i|H </fa(ed in value^^d is now rated at 39 years puscbafe. A martial ipirit. ieeoks to pervade the lower ranksi who can iearcely be prevented from entering into the army or navy 00 the report of a war* Their condition might perhaps be me- liorated by improving the lands ftiU fiirther, and encouraging the loom; but, oi^ the whole, few diftrifb in the country J^vf i9ore reafon to be fati^d with their prefent ftate^
Kettle pofiefles very material advantages in its coal and Kroe works. Marl is eafily procured. The lands are impro« ved and drained with facility, from their floping direAioa^ and plenty of water. It affords employment and fubfifteoce for the whde of its inhabitants. The language commonly fjpokcn is Englifb, with a provmcial accents The names of places are £iid to be derived from the Gaelic^
No eflential hurt was felt from the fcvere years 1787 nor 1783 in this parifh. Some individuab, perhaps, might be a little diftrefled ; but, in general, the farmers made money in thofe years. The crops being early, and tolerably reaped, yielded much meal, and fupplied feveral places with good feed. Whatever degree of improvement this pariih has yet attained, has almoft all been given it (excepting the eftate of "Wefter Lathrifk) within thefe la years. Much, however, yet remains to be done, both in acquiring fyftem and execu* tioo.
There are 7 or 8 public hottfes In the parlfh, but they
produce
^^^4 Utattjittia Jaouni
fmdticetoliaddleCb: Moft of them sre pbces ci^ iccom^ modatiooy and could not be wanted. The inhabtonrs of thb paiifli are Deiiher chargeable with die vict of dhntfamncfs 'tiot of wafting tbcir tune or nonej* Several new boiueft liave latel7 beoi biuk. Few cottages hate been hdikf tod is few allowed to become robous. There b nb jail hi the ptrifh. Feudal fertices are whoHf obfiterated.
VlJtU^
, tfDMng, J38S
klJMBEk XL.
Parish of delting.
Sy thi Rtb^ Mr ^ohU MotiiSON,
JVjm?» Sihiotum^ Extent* %^ELTINO, or, perhaps, with more propriety, Deltaing ♦, JLjr is of Dani(h or NorWegian origm. The parifh is in the county of Orkney and Shetland, and preibytery of Shet- land, which hai (ynodicai powers within itielf, the General Afiembly being the immediate coult of appeal. It is bounded bn the weft by the parilh of Northmaving, from which it 19 divided by a long narrow voe, caUed Sulom Voe ) on the eaft by Nefting tod Lunnafting ; on the north by Yell Soundj trhidh feparates it froni Tell ; aiid on the fouth by the pa* riflies of Wiefdale and Sandfting. It A difficult to ftate with any degree of precifion the length or breadth of this pariHiA as it is much interfiled by narrow voes, and no part of it \$ sjdxnre two miles from fome fea» The appearance of the coun« try is hilly, Ueak, and barren. The hills afford plenty of exV cellent peati, which \& an article of no fmall importance in fuch a high latitude, and under fuch inclement ikies. That part of the parifh which is under cultivation, and which bear*
but
* Taing IS a neck of land jetting out into the fea, and Deil a Vallcyw
Vol. U 3 C
^Z6 StafiJiUal Jccomt
but a tery rimll proportion to the wafte ancTanciiItivated porti prodocesi in good fesrfoii^ly vttj tolerabk crops of terlcy, and a kind of bleak oats, ^d abundance of potatoes^' Cabfag^ thrive in evcrj kail yard ; but turnip, carrot, parfoip^ &c. arc only to be found in genHemens gardens.
Climate and Dl/ea/es.'^The air is moifl-, but not' anhealilij. ^e old people faj that difeafcs are non^ more common' than formerly, which may be afcribed to the change in the mode of Hviag, efpedaHy to the general ufb of tea, of whidi tlie confumption is amaziog, even in the pooreft families, who will ftint themfelves' in iliahy eflential neccilaries of Bfe, m order to procure this ar'tideof luxury. The mdft commoo diAempers are the feurvy, which is not to tie wondered at, s the people live mncjbroli fifli Mid'flelh, and ufe veiy Uttk ve* getaUe fbod. The dampoefr of the climate may likewift contribute to bring this terrible difi^er to the height is which it often appease: Rhciiaiatic and nenrbus fomplainu are (aid to be moref common now than' they were iomc years' ago. Many difeafes' are hitroduced by the fliips of difiercot nations, which occafibnally touch at'theie iiltods. Convul; fion fits» of a very extraordinary kmd; feems^ peculiar to thii country. The patent is firflL fcised with fomething like hinu ingi. and immediately after utters vHId cries and Ifartcks, the found of which, at whatever diftknce, immediately purs ali who ait iubjejft to the difbrder in the iame fitoation. It moil commody aitadcs thc'm when thb church is crowded; and* often interrupts' the fervic'e in this, and many other churches in the country. On a <acramenfal occafion, 50 or 60 ar^ fbmetimes carried oot of the church, and laid in the church* yard, where they ftruggle and roar with all their ftrcngth for five or ten minutes, and then riie up without recolleAiojg a £Dgle circumftance that Iiad happened themi or being in the
kafi
leaft ituct or fatigued with the violeat esertions thfy had ^ade during the fit. One pbfervation occurs on this difor- 4ler^ that during the late fcarce years it W2S very uncommon ; «nd during the twp laft years of fleAtjr it has appeared more frequently,
Isoieit CooftSi I/Iaffdij^Rfienfs.-^Therc V€ in. the p^u'ifh fonrc /tnali lakes or lochsj and fome fmall riyulets, but no ftreao^ that deier^ci3 the name of a river. In tbefe lakes and rivi • lets, the only fi(h is a fnaall jkind of trout *, li^ut, about the be- jginning of Auguft, fea trouts^ of a very large Hzc^ are caught in nets made for the pprpofe in the mouth of the difiercoc ^i^ni^ets* 1^ filh of thjs )cind are ever folds but given in pre- ^nts through the neighbourhood. The inhabitants fit out beats for the lin^, cod, and tu&: fiibing,on the cpafts of the aieighbouriag parifh of Northmaving. The feafon of this fifliery i^ during the mpnths of June and ^uly, and a part of Auguft^ _Hofr^&r the people, In general, are benefited b/ ihis fiihingi will ^jppear from the following ftatement.
The E}(peiQ^e pf a Shetland Fiihing Boat.
Scots money % A 1>oat 1 8 feet keel, con^letely rjgged^ &<;• with
a fail containing 2j3 yards of canvas L. 104 9 o
Z20 ground lines, at 26 s. eacht fitted • 1^6 .0 o
8 ground lines for buoy st)pe.s, at 20 s« • 800
4 buoys, at 20 s. each • . • . 400
4 haddock lines, fitted with hooks, &c« • 24 o o
Total^eipen^e for boat and lines. L. 25^6 9 o
Th«
* Scots money it divided like Sterling, but is only the twelfih ^zxt of lu
388 Siatifilcal Accwnt
The boat maj laft ^ years, and the lines four \ lience it ap« i pears,
* • Scots nsfyoef.
That the annual exppace on boat and Unes wiU
be L. 65 8 •
Add wages of fix men, fuppofe L. ^o ea^h 120 00
15 liipunds of meal, 48 s. at an average • 36 o 0
12 pints of fpirits, at 24 s. each . • 14 8 0
Total expence during the feafon L. 235 16 •
Tlie fifhermen carry many articles of provifion firom thdr own houfes to the fiibiug ilations, fuch as butter, milk, &c. on which no value is here put. Neither is any thing fiated for iriiuruiice, which in this trade ought to be very h^h, as
the rifk is great.
The fifhery 1$ carried on in thefe open boats, at the d!- fiance of i: or 15 Icai^ucs from (hore; and when bad wea- ther overtakes them during the night, which is often the cafe, the poor men are obliged to deffcrt their lines, and make for the fliore, which^ alas! in many infUncet thcynerer reach. Ihe prefent minifter remembers two boats being loft in one night, by which accident 10 "ffi^tm^ and 53 &therld^ children were left.
Axmual Expence^ apd Annual Retnrqs*
The fifii is delivered to the proprietors, as caught, at 421. per quintal. At the principal fiihing ffaitions, each boat may catch, at an average, 800 ling^ which may weigh 100 quin^ talsj a little more or lefs*
Total
Scots money, ^otal expence on a year's fi(hing • L. 235 16 ^
too quintals ling, at 42 s. is L. 2io o Q Z quintats cod and tuik, at 30 s. 1200 30 cans oil from the livers, at i os. 15 o o
Total returns on an average • 237 o %
Balance in favours of the fharers in a boat L« 2 i5 •
It may be {iroper to add, thatv on the eaft fide of the coon* trj, each boat does not carry above 45 or 50 grouiid lines^ The fiihery on that fide is carried on at much lefs expence § but is, in general, proportionally fmaller than on the weft fide.- This year the fifhery has been very unfuccefsful ; fo that the boats w^ll not have 400 ling, inftead of the 800, which 19 Ibted as an average. The confequence muft be, that the poor £ihermen, difappointed in this only fource of gain, muft this jcar fall greatly in arrears'to their landbrds.
Theft fifli are cured for exportation to Spain, Hamburgh, anil Ireland. They fell, when dried, from i6s. to i is. a cwt. This year, in general, no higher price than lis. has been given, befides the 3 s. allowed by government for every cwt. exported. The greateft part of thie cod and tuik is fent to Leith, and fold at between i6s« and 19 s. a cwt. The pro* prietors of the lands, or receivers of the fifli, make, on an average, a profit of L. 10 Sterling from every fiihing boat belonging to their eftates. £very tenant is obliged to fit out a certain fhare of a boat, in proportion to the o^tent and va* }ue of the land he poflefies.
The Toes, by which the pariih is interfeAed, fbmilhy In |noft years^ |)leaty of fmall fi(h, from the livecs of which a
confiderabic
AQofidenUe quantity of oil is made. Tliis fifliing is die \ beneficial to the poor tenants, as jt is attended with no ex^ pence, and bnx^ wffi only wholdbine foodio their funilies, but oil, which gcngijly fells at jpu or 35 %. and i^aytioKt at 508.abanreU
The common Tea weed, here .called Ufigt is pretty gencral- Ifr, and fuccefsfuUy, ufed as \, manure ix^ the laivis. It if but very lately that the attei^ion of the gentlfcmeo o^ this country has iQ any mcafure been tume^ (o the making of kelp. This aitick has, however, been ^ncrcafing lor foma years pfft \ Ui that |t is now believed there may be i^m 209 to 300 tons ammaUy /exported irom the whok country.
Thc^e are iey^ creeks apd .harbours m ihe parifli^ whkh would be of high importance in many faru of the kingdom^ but are here jq£ very little confof ueoce. There Is an inlet of |che Tea from St Magnus B^y, through a p)ace called th^ Minp, a found which divides the Ifland of Veheooientry, inSandfiing parifli, from Mickle Rhoe in this par!&. This iidet or voe f urmibes fcveral CKcelient harbours } fuch as Bufta Voe, South Voeter, and Alnafirth. In all of thefe there is fa^ anchorage ^or ve&ls of a conilderable burdeo \ as alf^ at Elwick and l^avinignnd, both at the head ^f Sulom Voe, which divides jthis parifh from Northmaviog. If a canal was cut from the bead of >Sttlom Voe to Bufta Voe, whi^ cqold be done at 9 very moderate expcnce, it would open an eafy communicatiqii between all the moft conGderable filhing ftatlons in the coun- try, and afford a fafe pavigation to ihips of any fiace through the middle of the country. If ever fuch a canal fiiould be cut, the banks of it would be a moft convenient fituation for a manu&during village, whi^ is not more wanted in any part of his Jbdajefty's domiaiofis than here ; Fi)r> (luni^ one
half
39<
%iltot tlie year at leafl, a great part of thirpedjple are idK;' £id during the other half| what little work they perform cah make no adequate return fbr their fabottf. May, after alt their toil, they often do not receive the original' value o( tHe raw ni^erials emplo/ed in thieir homely manufn£lure of fitfgte' iVockings i Which, howeveri is the only way by which' many of the inhabitants can earn a fingle peftoy. It would bt preT. fcrable ibr them to'feU'the wool, rather thUn take up theii* fime in manufa£luring h' in fo unprofitable a'ma&neT.
The'iC&nds on the coaft of this parifhi a^d nifhich fornn a J^art of it^ are, Mickle RhoCi 24- miles ih circumference, con- taining 14 families, who' live oh a few fpots^ which have been brought under cultivation within thefe 40 or 50 years : 'f hefe^ Tye along the fea coaft : 'f he other psitts of the ifland are co« vered with a' kind of heath, ndiich affords no Bad pafturago for (heep, hbrned cattle, and horfes ; of all which a great tiumber might be reared with' a fmall dSfgree of attention. This ifland ties on the fouth coaft of the parifh. On the liorth end are tbe iflands 6f Little Rhoe, containing 7 fami* lies ; Brother iBe, 2 families i f ifhholm, 1 family. Thefe 3 Hfands are in Yell Souhd, on the northern extremity of the parifii. None of them would be inhabited but for the fake of the fiiheries, as the little corn they produce is generally blafted by the fea. Bigga is another ifland in Yell Sounds containing 4- families; half of it belongs to'Delting, and half to Yeli.
jigricutiur/, CaitU^ feV — TBfere are liot above fix plotighs ih the parifli, and thefe of a very finguhr conftruAion. They are oiade of a fmail crooked piece of wood, at' the end of which is fixed a flender pliable piece of oak, that is faftened to the yokes hid acrois diti nedfs of the oxen. The man
jl^^i Sta^fikdAcami
^pho holds tbe plongb walks bj its fiies sad dtreOs it vids i liik or handle fixed on the top of it. l^e driver^ if he can be fb called, goes before the oxeo, and poUs them on bj a rope tied nnind their horns ; and fome people vith fpadcs follow the piooghj to level the fbrrow and break the clods. The only crops are Uack oats, fown in April, and barley^ . Ibwn In Maf • Both are reaped in the end of Auguft, or du- ring the month of September* The want of inclofurcs has prevented any attempts to fow artificial gniflcs ; but the inea- dows fumilh a confiderable quantity of natural hay. The pariih can never fupply itfelf with meal. A confiderable iiumber of black cattle and (heep is annually fold to the Ler- wick merchants, who kill them, and fend them packed to Ldth market ; meal, flour, bifcuits,harley, and other articles, bdng bought in return* The hilb, in general, are covered with heath, and afford good pafturage iot fheep, which go wild without any herdfman to attend them. They are in general, however, fo far tame, that they can be driven into punds or fmall ihciofures, where the wool is pulled off^ the young lambs marked, and fuch ram lambs cut as are not in- tended for tiips to the dock.
lame has never been ufed as a manure, except in a very few inftances, where it never £uled to produce great returns; in fome thirty, in fome iixty, and in (bme in hundred fold. But improvements tiy lime, or any other means, is feldom at* tempted here, for this obvious rcafon, that the tenants have no leafes : They confider themfelves as the tenants of a day, and have neither inclination nor fpirit to attempt any efiec- iuil improvement of the grounds they poflels \ thinking, aixl with juftnefs, that another may reap the benefit of all the endeavours they might ufe to meliorate their farms;
The
$fDehmg. 393
Thepariih abounds in horfo, horn«d cattle^ andlheep: The pathires might so doubt bear a much greater number of each than they bow contain. There is no faying, with minute exafhiefi, <what may be the number of each. If the flieep are ftated at 8ooo» it will not be materially und^ or above the truth. There may be about 700 milch cows^ bciides oxen and young cattle. What the number of horfes may be it is impoffible to fay ; but there b certainly a great number : Hiey are very fms^ ; and, owing to the little at- tention paid to the fekdion of proper ftalliont^ they are be* coming fmaller every year.
The winter of 1 7.84 was very fevore, and cut off a great num- ber of iheep and horned cattle in every part of thefe i(lands« An account was taken^ at the defire of the minifteri in this pa- ri(h| .and the return was 4506 iheep *, and 427 black cattle, dead in the courfe of the winter, befides horfes, of wMch no accurate account could be obtained. This, joined to a year of as great ftarcity as the country had ever experienced, was very hard on the poor tenants ; and they have not yet reco- vered the lofi. In that winter, the ilieep were often dug out c( the fnow, after continuing under it for 20 days \ during all which time they had no food, but eat the wool from the backs of each other. Some that died after they were taken out were opened, and a hard ball of wool was found in their ftomach. The general poverty of the inhabitants ; their being obliged to be from home during the fiftiing feafon ; the fmulU nefs of their farms, and the precarious tenure by which they hold them \ all conffpire to keep them in a ftate of indigence.
Every
• This was the number of dead flicep that were found ; many periihed wbofe carcafcs were never found*
VPL. I. 3D
394 Stali/Kcai Acf$unt
Every num, flroin the age of i8 to 769 nuift attend the fifliiiig from the ift June to the 14th Auguft. Nooe are le& at home but a wife;, with perhaps a number of yowig children, who rc(]uire all her attention. Everything in the ifarmixtg Ikie nmft confequentlf go to wreck.
The hcrned cattle and fliecp are fmall, but the beef and mutton fweet and well flavoured. The iheep, in general^ carry very Toft fleeces. A few are to be found wluch carry wool of a very fine quality, of which dockings are made, that fcU at difl!erent prices, from 15 s. to 40 s. a pair. Some are kmt b flne as to be eafily drawn through a common ring, and do not weigh above 2 ounces, in the year lySa, the beft ox cooM have been bought for L. 20 Scots ) the befl cow from L. la to 15 Scots. This year, 1790, and for a few years paft, jL« 36 Scots is thought a moderate price for a good ox ; and h. 24 Scots is often paid for a fat cow. The price of iheep feems to have varied very little in the memory of max^ In the neighbourhood of Lerwick, 5 s. are paid for a wedder ; but in this pariftii and many other parts of the country, 3$. is thought a high price. The carcafe of an ox weighs from 3 to 4 cwt. ; that of a cow from 170 to 2301b. A well grazed cow yields from 32 to 42 lb, tallow ; a well graaed ox from 48 to 70 lb. foaietimes 90 lb. tallow.
Pcpulaihn.^ln 1 752, the number of fouls in the parifli were ^56. In 1785, there were 1417, In 1790, there were 1504. There are now alive only 5 houfeholders who were living 25 years ago. One woman is now alive aged loi years; another died lately at the age of 105 ; and another died in 1784 at the age of 98. JShe died in the fame houfe in which flic was bom, and had flept only two nighu out of it. The pDoiber of families is now 223, Each hoofeholder has a
fmaU
fmlU i^rm, whtclx in :gdod ieafoos, and whim die finaH fifh*> ing of fillocks and puUocks do^ not fail, may fupply his 6^ milj for three quarters of the year. Including farm fervants^ there were, in 1782, 364 of all kinds intheporifli* The iiumber b much the fame at pirefetiti
The population of t^e fm(k %% mateHaUf different firon IV hat it was foaie years ago. The aheratlofi proceeds from this obvious caofe. The inhabitants have not been lodg com* pcUed by their landlords t6 ptK>ftcute tbe ling fiihery ; but^ iincethc. proprietors thought propter to employ thfcir teiiants In that iinei it has becoitie an obieA to have as many mete as poffible oil their grounds* Thil circtimftance haa induced them to fplit the farms, and make them fo fmall, that there »tc now, in many mflanctsi fioUr families on a farai which was poflefledy ao or 30 years ag0| by one^
There are very few batchclors. The peoplci in general^ tnarry. young* A young lad, when he comes to the age of 18 or 19 years, goes to the fummet* fifhery for a fee of L. 16 to L. %6 Scots. Sometimes the fees are as high as L^ 28 Scots for 10 fuQitnief weeks. Wlieii they have bedn one fea- fon at the fifhisg, th^ generally confider themielvey ai men. They are qncour^gcd to i^arriage by tfceir li^drds^ in ordet to prevent- them from leaving the country ; ^an^ the confequeoces contq^only are, th^r they fiod thgnfelvea ktvoU ved in debt and l^qge fa^nilies in % very few yejirs. There is a (et of i»ry old yegulatipns, caUp^ C»uf^rjf Afis i i^ one of ^hich it is eoaAqd^ that no pak fhall marry unle(s they be poffeiTed of L. 40 Scots .of free gear^ This regulation, as well as all the rel^,^is now not enforced } .though all of them arppear tahaye beeti well-calculattd for the good polite' of tho ccyuntry«« It is faid that thefe regMUitions* wer^approv^and
confirmed
39«
Ststi/iuat Aaount
«onfirined bf the parliament of Scotland, ta- the raga of Queen Mary, or of James VL
There h^ been no emigration from the pariih daring the lime of the preTent incumbent : But, almoft every year, a great number of young lads engage with the Greenland ihips» which touch at Briflay Sound on their outward pafiage in the month of March and Aprilr They receive from 30 s. to 409. a month. Many of theft men are landed on the ifland when the (hips return from Grmiland ; but many go at laft into the navy. It is a fa£t well aicertained, that in the year 1763, there were 900 Shetland mei^ paid off. What number rc« mamed in the fleet after the peace it is impoffible to fay.
The number ef inhabited houfes is 2^3* In each hmk^ on an average, there may be from 6 to 7 people. There arc at prefent no uninhabited houfes.
AbftraA from the Rtgiffer of Baptifms and Marriages.
|
Baptifms. Marriages. |
|||
|
Boys. Girk. |
Fain. |
||
|
*» 1752 |
14 |
8 |
|
|
1153 ' |
'3 |
12 |
If |
|
1754 |
22 |
it |
13 |
|
r755 |
I? |
»7 |
|
|
r75<S . .. |
r8 |
12 |
|
|
1757 . |
i& |
8 |
|
|
»7S8 . . |
18. |
« • »4 |
n |
|
1759 |
»3 |
x6 |
|
|
1760 |
22 « |
, 17. |
|
|
2761 |
to |
• 10 |
|
|
>7^* |
«9 ! |
! 32 ! |
»3 lo |
|
4f Ucttti^« |
►' |
M |
|
|
Baptil |
msk Marriages: |
||
|
Boys. |
Girls. |
FSun. |
|
|
1763 |
» 14 |
V »9 |
»9 |
|
1764 |
14 |
.' 18 |
10 |
|
1 76s . |
. . »j |
• as |
la |
|
1766 |
«3 |
13 |
S |
|
1767 . . |
»2 |
»4 |
V S |
|
1768 |
ao |
20 |
r I» |
|
1769 |
27 |
24 |
M |
|
»77o . . |
14 |
13 |
IX |
|
1771 |
25 |
30 |
la |
|
1772 . . |
28 |
»9 |
5 |
|
»777 . . |
12 |
»3 |
»3 |
|
1778 . . |
16 |
16 |
«4 |
|
1779 |
21 |
18 |
4 |
|
1780 |
23 |
24 |
9 |
|
1781 |
9 |
13 |
$ |
|
1782 |
19 |
23 |
9 |
|
1783 . , |
14 |
14 |
»3 |
|
1784 |
14 |
>7 |
9 |
|
1785 |
»7 |
7 |
»S |
|
1786 |
18 |
21 |
10 |
|
1787 •. . |
22 |
»7 |
7 |
|
1788 |
6 |
7 |
II |
|
1789 . . |
to |
29 |
>3 |
Divifion and Senta/ cf LawL'-^Tbc arable ground in the parilh has never been meafured, fo as to afcertain the nunw ber of acres. An acre is a mode of meafurement little known in this country. The old and (landing mode b by merks of land) which are of very different fizes in different parts^ ac- cording to their goodnefi. The lands have been, time im* memorial^ divided into la penny, 9 penny, and 6 penny
laud^
$9% Statijltical Accwit
had* In a few inftanceii fbme of the 12 pexinj land h^ been meafuredi and was fouad to be ^ of an acre to each merk, aad 6 penoj land \ acre to each nsefk. The rents of the different quality of land is thus ftated : »2 pennj land pqrs yearly 16 merks of butteri and L. i :4 :o Scots ; $ pen- ay land {Kiys yearly 1 2 merks of batter, and L. t Scots per tti. ( 6 penny land pays yearly 8 aerks of butter and I2d« per m. ; each merk butter being commonly converted at 24 d. It IS to be obferved, that what is paid forthefe lands ha^ not been raifed, perhaps, fince thefe iflands were annexed to the erown of Scotbind. Of bte, however, the price of the bat* ter-rent, when not paid in kind, has been raifed from 5 to 7, t, and 9 s« a lifpund. Till a few years -ago, it was confi- dered as a {landing regulation, that the batter part of the hmd-rentfhould be converted at 5 s. a lifpand ; a lifpond con- tains 24 merks, equal to 32 lb. EngUfh ; bat the faAor for the fuperior thought proper to charge the current price for the fcu-duty butter ; and many of the proprietors of the country followed tliis example : So that a merk of butter, which weighs i^lib. Englifh, is.fometimes 3 d. 4d. and 4|d. inftead of being fixed at the old converfion of 2 J d. a merk, #hich was the former regulation. This the tenants confider as a hardfhip, as few of them can pay their Butter rents in kind«
What is called the rentalled land of the pariOi ainounfa tb 854 merks of land, about 600 acres. Befides this, there' are many outfets, or new improvements, which are made by the proprietors, in order to find a fettlemeot for the young men who marry, and whom they cannot ac- commodate with fettlements on rentalled or improved lands. It appears rather doubtful how far thefe oatiets or new inclofures have been for the real good of the iflaod.
Thefe
Thefe attempts to knproYC have generally been undertaken 1^ young beginners in the world, who had neither ftrength of bands to.improye the groundti nor flocks of cattle to fumifli manitre.
The whole rent of the parifli is 547 lifpund 22 merks iq better, and L* 1152 : 11 : 4 Scots in mon^s or, convert- i^the butter at L. 3 a lifpund, L« 2796 : 6 : 4 Scots in all^ or L. 233 : o : (Sf Sterling.
To the above maj be added, 40 d. from each family fo^ lervices, when not paid in kind, and a hen and cock from 0- very 2 Aerks of land in the pariifa. Befides the above landa rent payable to the proprietors, the tenants pay feveral other duties, fach as com*tei<id, which varies from 4 mcrks of butter and ^ can of oil for each mcrk of land, to 2 merks butter and ' can of oiU They likewife pay the cefs \ and certain payments are claimed by Sir T. Dundas, called Scatt, Wattle, and Ox^ penny. Thefe payments vary. In fome places they are oDly 4 d. or 5 d. a merk of land *, in other places they are as high as 12 d. and 13 d ; payable in butter and oil in moft inftan* ces. Thefe payments are generally confidered of Daniih o« rigin, as taxes paid to the crown of Denmark, and continued fince the annexation of the country to the crown of Scot* land. When the lands are let in leafe, or, as it is here call- ed, tack, the tackfman commonly pays rent, and half-rent % and in many inftances, double the ufual rents, for the pro* £ts of fifhing.
The parifli is fo extenfive, that it is impoffible to (zf what projportion of the land is wade. No proper diviGon of the wafte lands or con^mons has yet taken place, nor per« liaps ever will. For this reafon^ the flieep and cattle of dif- ferent
9
S^odi Stati/lkaJ J€cmoa
fierent proprietors muft occafionally incroach on 'eadi «* Cher's property ; no herds attend to prevent thele mcroadu mentSi and tliej muft bear with one another. The marches of the paftures of the different towns or hrms are ^erj ux^ perfe£U^ afcertained.
Chunb.'^Tbft living is now let for L. 56 Sterling, aufai» five of an aagmentation of L. 11 13:4 lately obtained. The prefent incumbent is Mr John Morifoo, who was feuled In April 1782. Sir Thomas Dundas is patron. The manfe was repaired after the admiffion of the prelent incumbent. There are two churches a the principal one about 7 and the other 3 miles from the manfe ; both in octremely bad order. There are a6 heritors, all refident except one ; but the great* eft part of them have only very fmall pcoperties.
Prices of Provifions and Labour. — ^Beef commonly fells at t J d. a pound ; flaugbtered veal is feldom fold ; a living calf is fold for IS. 6 d. or i s. 8 d. the ikin of which vall fell a- gain for j{ d. or i s. 3 d. Mutton is never fold by the weight ; an ordinary fheep may fell for 3 s. or 5 s.; a lamb for I s. 2 d. to I s. 6 d. s pigs newly farried 6 d. or 8 d. ; a good goofe may weigh ip lib^ and is fold for 8 d.; chic- kens 2d. a piece ; a hen 4 d. ; a cock 2 d. ; Butter has been formerly dated. Cheefe is never made. The price of barley and oats varies according to thicir plenty or fibardty. Whea is not known in the parifh.
In this country, every labourer, and workman of all kiud^ mull be maintained in the family where they work. A com* SDon day-labourer's wages is 6 d. ; mafons, 10 d. to 1 s. 2 d. The only fiiel is peat. This article is not to be bought. E- ycry houfchpldcr cmpjoys fucb a nuipbcr of his friends ^n^
neighbours
tfDeUin^. 40.1
neighbours as he thinks necefiary, to dig tKe proper (jnanti- ty. Theie are entertaizied with meat in abuodancp, (pirits, and tobacco. Ihe expencCion thefe occafionsi may be about I s« 8 d. for every man employed. Women*fervaots, for the care of the children, and other work within doorst have L. 1 Sterlingt a (hirt at 3 s. and a pair of fhocs at 2 or 3 s. for their yearly wages. Farm women fervants L 6 Scots each, and a pair of (hoes. A man-fervant, for three quarters of the year, has L. 9 Scots, and a pair of {hoes. No maofervant can be got during the fifliing feaion, as they have better wa« ges at the fiOilng.
JtntlqtdtUs «-^There are three PiAiih caflles iri this parifli^ one at fiurravock, one at Brough, and another at Burraneiif» Thefe are all of a circular form, and have no entrance but from the top* They are built of ftones of fuch a fizc as could not have been raifed without the ufe of engines which could hardly have been fuppofed to be in uft at the rude pe- riod in which thefe buildings muft have been ere£ted. There are, in different parts of the country, PiAifh caftles, more entire than thofe in this pariOi. No tradition, or hiftorical account, can now be had \ owing, perhaps, in a great mea- fure, to this circumftance, that very few of the dcfcendants from the original inhabitants now remain. When thefe iflands were transferred from Denmark to Scotland, many firom Scotland came ovei* in different lines. By dint 6f fu- perior wealth, fuperior wiidom, or fome other means, ma« nj of them acquired eftates, by buying out the Norvegian proprietors, whoie pofleiBons in general were fmall, owing td a regulation they had, of dividing their landft equally among their children. This regulation had rendered the pofieffions of each individual very trifling in many infiances*
Vol. L 3 £ Mi/L
401 St0ti/lkiit AccmM
Mifedlaneous Oi/ervatitms.— The people fai geacfal are aoc difjpoied to induitry \ tor which thej cannot, however, 1b much blamed, as no way has yet been pointed out to thcs by which they might turn their induftry to account. No nianufadures are eftablifhed ; and, excepting what the men may gain by fiOimg^ the witoi and children at kelp bumiiig during a few weeks m f ummer % they have not a pn^)abk chance ol earning a penny, but by the mana£i£hirc of fiagk ftockings, which is iois of time, to call it no worfe.
Moft of the young men who leave the country embrace a ieafaring life. It is the only line witn which they have a chance oi being acquainted. Many, who have left the omiii- try in this line, in a very mean way, have riien to indepca- dent and genteel ftations. On the prelent alarm of war,oc£ hundred men were demanded by the Admiralty beijare they would grant proteAion to the trade and fifheries of thde jflands, 1 be proportion of this pariih was fix men. Sateen, ho?rever, entered voluntarily.
. The people are rather expenfive and luxuiioos for thdr circumftances. This may be alcribed to many cauks i one ia particularism that their landmafters give them unlimited credit. The people think they are entitled to this, becaufe they £& for them. Whatever they want, or think they want, is fur- niihed from the booth or ftorehoufe of the proprietors, or bought from the fliops in Lerwick. When the day of ac- count comes, it very often happens that the gainings of the year cannot nearly pay for the ezpence.
The people in general are hofpitable in tlie extreme, and dii^ i pofed to humane and generous a£tions. Few wrecks have ever happened on the coafts of this pftri(h| but, when they have
fiappened^
g^ Debing. 403
happened, every attention has been fliewn to fave and com- fort the diftrefied« When the watch was not veiy ftriA, at« tempts indeed might be made to pilfer from the wreck.
The circnmftances of the inhabitants cannot be materially bettered^ nor their fituation rendered more comfortable, un- til one radical evil is removed, VIz^ the (hort and precarious nature of the leafes. For no man can have a f pirit for im- provement, or pay any great attention to rear a ftock on a pofleflion from which he knows not but he may be turned off next year. Another thing efTenttally neceflary would be to cre£t fifhing and manuCai^hiring villages, and the introduc- tion of proper manufactures among them. To that the indut> trious part of them might have'conftant employment, which h now far from being the ca(e. The manufa^res mofl pro- per for this country are, ift, woolen manufia£lures, in which the inhabitants are fo far back, that they often fell their wool to the Orkney people at a very low price, and next year buy their ftuffs, made of the fame wool, at a very high price. A wdl conduced manufaAure of fifhing lines would fave a great deal of money to the country, and fecure to the inhabitants a more certain fupply of this important article than they can have while they depend entirely on an importation from Hamburgh. A tannery might be of confiderable advantage. At prefent, raw hydes are exported, except a few which are tanned in the country, but fo indifferently, as to produce lea- of no durability.
A total fuppreffion of fmuggling would contribute greatly to the profperity, and prelervation of the morals, of the peo- ple ; provided, at the fame time^ the excife was taken off fi^cb fpi^its as are confumed by the fifhermen during the fiOi-
ii;g
404 Statijiical Account
ing feafon. They cannot prolecute the fifliing withooft -m Iktlci and they cannot a£ford to ufe duty paid fpirits.
A material alteration would be necefiary in condudmg the few improvements which are attempted. Inftcad of fettling the youngeft and pooreft beginners on the new outfets» thef ought to be given to men of ftock and ^^th fuffident to enable them to make a proper improvement of the foil. The leafes ought to be long, and, for a few years at leaft, the rents very moderate.
Until the agriculture of the country be brought to more perfection than it is at prefent, until manufaAures (hali be c- OabU(hed, and villages ereAed, it would be proper to difcea- ragCi as luuch as poffible, early marriages, when the pities have nothing lo begin the world with, and perhaps both parties coniiderably in debt before marriage. The tenants complain that they are obliged to fell all their fi(h, oiI| &c to their landlords. It is, however, doubtful how far any alteration of this fyftem would be beneficial to thern^ wue they allowed to fell their iifh, oil, &c. to the higheft bidder. Tbeu* iand-ren'^s would of courie be raifedi and they might be deprived ot that affiftanpe, which they will always need in years of fcarcity, tintil proper inanufai^ures afc eftablifhed a- pong them.
Some years ago, a linen inanufaflure was eftabliffaed, and a bleach6eld hid out, but wasfpon given up, after \hc comp^nj concerned had expended about L. 1600 sterling on the hoa- fcsy works, and machinery. Tlfe principal heritors in the country had (hares in this entcrprifc ; but, whether it vas owiD.Mo the improper managepent of thofe. employed to conduft it| or from the cpmpany beginning on too estenflve
tf Deking. 405
a plaa^ tlie fcheme £uled, and the partners loft every pennj <>f their refpeAive (hares. A linen manufacture was lur<J^ improper as a firft attempt to intro<)uce manufiiChires this conntrji far back in improvementi becaafe no flax is fed in the ifland^ and the people had never been pmiouflf inftruAed in the mode of fpinning lint. The fame fiiin ex* pended in eftabliQiing a woolen manufaAure would have dooe cflential good to the inhabitants, and would have emplojcd many a hand which is now idle, or employed in deftroying materials, which ought to be turned to a more profitaide ic* count.
Another way by which the fituation <^ the people in dais country would be confiderably bettered, would be to ofe left of iLngliih cloths, and fineries of different kinds, which Itfve of late been imported in amazing quantitieSi and to be fatisliccl^ as their' forefathers were, with cloth and ftu£l% made htHn the fleeces of their own flocks, and manufnAured by their < hands. But, at prefent, few or none will appear from 1 in any manufaAure of the ifland, even on ordinary occ All are clad in Englifli cloths or ftuffs^a very few of the moft frugal excepted.
There are no bridges, nor fo much as the form of a md, through the ifland. The traveller goes on bis way with k tion, through the hills and deep mofles \ and, by fbmetimes to the one hand, and fometimes to the other, deavours, in the beft manner he can, to get clear of the 1 and ditches, and peat-banks, that fall in his way. No t&dtk thing as ftatute- labour is exaAed, which appears a grett do* fcA in the police ; for, though regular roads could not prrhips }>e made } yet^ by very little attention every year, a much u^vc
4o5 Siatijiical Aceama
coniorttble communication might be opened between die different parts of the country.
The fituation of this« and indeed of every pariih in thefe iflandsfin the years 1 782 and 1 783, and for lour years after that pieriod, was deplorable indeed. The crop of 1782 failed ; the crop of 1 783 was ftiil worfe ; and^ to couiplcte the calamity, a general mortahty ot the homed cattle and (heep took place during the winter, as before mentioned. Few, in comparilbo, were left alive ; and the diftr> fled poiieflbrs of their poor re- mains were obliged to fellthe greater partj m order to purchale meal for their families. The meal was from L. 2 : 5 : o to L. a : 7 : o a boll. The moft fubftamial farmers, after the lofs of their cattle land ' leep, could not afford to purchafe a- ny adequate fupply ^ and many of the poorer could purcbaie little or none, but lived uiodlj ott wiiks, limpets, and iiich o- ther ihell-iifh, as the <ea-(hores afforded, added to the charity of their richer neighbours, which, in luch circnmfhnccs, could not reach far, as there were many to feek, and very few that could afford to give a morfel. This pariCb had a deep fhare in the general diftrefs, being the pooreft parifli in the country. Government gave Tome iupply ; and news of their diftrefs called forth liberal fublcriptions for their relief both in England and Scothind. With thefe provifions were bought, and fent to the country, and diftriboted in proper- tion to the diftrefs of individuals. This, joined to a general good fmall fifliery which providentially prevailed during moft of the fcarce years above mentioned, greatly affifted the land- holders to preferve their tenants from pcrifhing. Every he- ritor exerted himfclf to the utmoft of his ability in importing meal, which was fold out in fuch proportions as were thought prudent, according to the number in each family. Thijre is reafon to think that none died from mere want 5 but there is
oftoehlng. 4«7
no doubt that many, from the unwholcfome food which they were fometimes obliged to nfe, contracted difeafes that brooght them to the grave.
Eagles, cotbies, and crows, often do great damage to the com and young lambs. A price has been fet upon them by the commiflioners of fupply, viz. 5 s. for the head of an eagle, 4 d for a corby's head, and 2 d. for a crow's. This regulation has made thefe birds of prey lefi numerous than they formerly were. Plovers, fnipes, and ducks of all kinds abound, but no moorfbol, hares, or partridges. The migra- tory birds are, the chalder, refemblingthe lapwing. In mild leafons they appear in the month of January. Sometimes not ^ill the beginning of March, and diiappear in the month of September. Swans appear in great flocks in fpring, in their courfe to the eaftward, and m autumn on their return. They reft themfelves for feveral days on our lochs and voes, but none bring forth their young in this country. Kittyweaks come in great flocks in the fpring, and breed in the face of the.higbeft rocks. Their young are efteemed more delicate than chickens. Hens, geefe^ and other domeftic birds, a« bound hi every place.
The parifli has fome peculiar advantages, and fome pecu- liar difad vantages. The northern parts Lie very conveniently for the imali filhing of fillocks, puUocks, haddocks, whitings, and a fmall kind ol cod \ fome of which are caught at aimoft every fcalon of the year, and very near the fhore. It has al- ready bJen obfervedy that this kind of fiihery is more gene- rally Dencticial than the great fifliery of ling, cod, and tufls:, which can only be profecuted during a few of the fummer months* In the different voes on the fouth part of the pa- rilh J there is often caught great quantities of herrings, from
the
4o8 Statiftkd AtcmM
tlie aiOBtli of. Aaguft to December. The(e are lold to tlie birds* or their tackimeni at the rate of 5 s. to 6 s« a barrel, as thrj are brought afliore. Two barrels of the frefh fiih are takm to make a barrel of rrpacked herrings ; fo that the \ receive 5 s. to 6 s. for from 800 to 1000 herriogs.
The language is the fame as in the Contin^t of Scotland. The inhabitants, however, have left of a provincial br6giie 1 many parts of North Britain.
The names of places in the pari(h» and throqgh all Shcl- hodt are derived from the Norwegian language ; and th<^ who vnderftand that language fay that the name b» in moft hiftances* Tery ezpreffive of the fituation and convenience of Acfiace.
NUM.
\
NUMBER XLL
PARISH OF KlILRENNEY*
By the Rtv. Mr William Beat.
NaiHe^ Situaiifm^ Exttf^i And 5mA
TVL E name of this parifli feeins to be derived from the faint to whom the church was dedicated, viz. St Irenaetts, Bifhop of Lyons, whofe fame for pietj was at that time great throughout Chriftendom. What ferves tt> confirm thia origin of the name is, that the fifhermen, who have marked out the fteeple of this church for a meath or mark to dtreft them at fea, call it St Imie to this day $ and the eftate which Kes ckife by the church is called Imie« hiH; but, by the tranrpofition of the letter i,Rinnie.hill. What adds to the probability of this interpretation, is a traditioa fVtU exifting heve, that the devotees at Aoftruther, who coul4 not fee the church of Kilrenney till thej travelled up the ri^ iiag ground to what they called the Hill, then pulled' off their bonnets^ fell on their koces^ crofled tkemfelvesi and prayed to St Imie*
This parifh lies in the county and fytuxl of T^t^ and preic ^ bytery of St Andrews. It is about a nules long, and % broad^ almofk in the form of a circle^ ibmewhat elliptical on the coa& It is bonnded by Crail on the eail} Anftruther on the wefti
Vol. L 3 F Deninno
Stat^Ucal Auoma:
Deniiino on the north ; and one continued ridge of bbc3 rocki, that fet bounds to the iea, on the fonth. The ground rifes gnulually from Touth to norths aod ferms fuch a dedi- ▼ity at it ft barrier to inundation, i^fteraftorm, abundance of fea weeds are thrown on the {hore, which fenre fior ma- aure. The land^ at atfaverage, lets at 40 1. an* aci«.
&«— The incumbent was bom, and has fpent the grestcft part of his life, in this pariih ; and^ within Eis remembrance, 1^ quantities of large cod, ling, haddocks, herrings, holi- but, turbot, and mackarcl, have been caught here ; but the fiflieries are now mirerablj decayed. He can remember, when he was a young man, that he numbered no lefi than 50 large fiihing boats, that required' € men each, belonging to the town of Cellardykes, all employed in the herring £fliery iil*the fummer feafon. He can rccoUeft that he faw inch a number of boats throwing their nots at one time as he could not number, biit heard that the CoUeAor of tlie Chiftoms at Anftruther at that time, who kept an account of them, faid they amounted to 500) being gathered together from all quarters to thif (hore ; and t&e wmter fiihcry was proportionally great. He has feen 10 or 12 large boats come mto die harbour in one day, fwiming to the brim ^ith bigp eod, befides 30, 40, or 50, ftrung upon a rope faftcocd to the ftern, which they took in tow \ and, what will hasdly be credited, many a large codV head lying for dung on the land. At that time, a gentleman in Dunbar had' the largeft cod In tack for 4 d. each, on this provifo, that every inhabitant of the parifli {hould be at liberty to pick the beft fi(h for their own ufe at his price,; and of all tshe tfaoufaods he ever £iw, die largeft were bought for 4di At that time, he remem- bered no left than 24 fmall brewen in* the town of Cellar- dykes, probably fo called from a range of cdlars along the
ihorti
Hf Kilrenneym
4«*
Aore, bpilt for preparing fifli for ezportatioo^ bntnosr thtijr arC: reduced to two or three* owing to the decay of the-filhe- iry* So ftrong is the contraft between that time and thxs^ 4liaU not only few or no fi(h are caught, but, to the amaze- snent of every body, the haddocks fcem to have deforted ths fcoaft \ and for two years paft it has become a rarity to fee one.
P<{^dSfltffim.— The population of this parifli has^onfiderably -decreafed within thefe 30 years. Aocording to Dr WebftePs ftate of the popuhtioo, the number of inhabitants was 1348* The numbers have been diminiihed.by the decay of the fifhe* 4y and the union of fivms.
|
33 fiunilies cmfift of |
I peel |
00 |
« |
. |
3d |
|||
|
49 , . . , |
2 .... 98 |
|||||||
|
^ |
3 |
138 |
||||||
|
A4 |
4 |
176 |
||||||
|
29 |
• 5 |
»45 |
||||||
|
19 . |
6 |
114 |
||||||
|
■10 |
' .« |
. 7 |
> |
70 |
||||
|
II |
9 |
86 |
||||||
|
4 |
9 |
> << |
. 3fi |
|||||
|
6 |
10 |
<So |
||||||
|
I |
II |
II |
||||||
|
5 |
44 |
60 |
||||||
|
1 |
. 13 |
' >3 |
||||||
|
a |
• 14 |
26 |
||||||
|
I |
. It |
16 |
||||||
|
m^^^ _ .. |
||||||||
|
^1 fas |
niliet |
■iah. |
lUtan |
u 1086 |
Annual
4t« Stgti/ikalJuoimt
Annual a^^erage of births from 1770 to 1790 « 34
Males born io the preceding period • ^ 331
females • • • » 3j^o
Annual average of deaths during the fame period • ao
Males who died « • • • 177
'Females • • • • • 235
Prices of Prow/tens. '-^Tht incumbent remembers* that, ^hen rhe filhermen ufed to lay up their wiater provifioosi they bought beef for a merk Scots a ftones a good hen was got for 4d.s a pound of butter for 34 d.; and other i^iAuals in proportion : Now, 4 d« a pound is paid at all fea- fons of the year fbr beef| mutton, veal, )amb, and pork \ a pound of butter cofts 8 d« ; a hen i s. \ and the price of g«cfe, ducks, &c. is proportionally raifed.
Stipend^ Isf-c. — ^The value of the ftipend, including the glebe, amounts to X. 100 Sterling. Sir John Anftruther of An- ftruthcr is patron. Of 9 heritors only 3 rcfide. The manie was originally built by Mr James Melvil, an eminent refiv. mer. On the lower lentilc of the highoft window, whkh dire£lly overlooks the town, he ordered this inicription to be made, «« The Watch Tower,^ which remains diftindl to this day.
Rent. — The valued rent is L 8470 Scots. The real rent is difficult to be precifcly afcertained \ h}\x it may be fiaied «t L 2195 bterling.
School, — ^The fchoolmafter is accommodated with a neat little hottfe, frouring the public ftreet, containing afchool room and kitchen ou th< ground floor, 2 rooms and a dofet gtlQvej with a garret, and a fmall piece of ground before the
4oor^
y Kiireimeyip 4 1 j;
Qoorj indofed for a garden. His falary, as fchoolmafteri and perquifites as precentor and feffion-derk, amonnt to about L. 1 1 Sterling, befides what he can make of fchool fees, which are here very fmalL The number of fcholars is about 50 or 60, at 1 8. 2 d. a quarter for EnglUh $ writing is.6d»% writing and arithmetic a s* 6 d. $ Latin 3 s. wl|ich few are dj£^ pofed to learn.
Antiquities. — ^On the eaftem extremity of the pari(h| at the very verge of the Tea mark, b a cave, which feems to have been the habitation of ibmefolitary iiint in the days of old« The fuccef&ve tenants of this manfion have left figures of cro& fcSf rudely cut, here and there. It has been converted into a bam^ and is large enough to admit two threfliers at a time.
NUM.
|1f SMi/lkalJcaunl
NUMBER JUL
f ARISH OF ARNGASK.
Jfjr /ik Riv. Mr William LAy<;.
ttami^ Situatkn, Extent ^ and Soil^
TH E andent as well as die Aodern aaioe gma to dias pariih is Arogaik. The name of die £urm wluch in* eludes the hill on which the church ftands« is the iame with that of the parUh. From this &rm the pariih proba^ Uy derived its name, which is dcifcriptive of the nature of llie pafifhi and Is entirely compoied of hills. It is coo^ pounded of Am^ which is probably derived from the Latin word Arvum^ and ga/k^ which is commonly underftood to ^gnify what is large. Amgafl: may hence fignify elevated or large arable land | and, in truth, the hiUs in this pariih are almoft all capable of culture. The pariih is in the pret bytery of Perth, and the iynod of Perth and Stirling. It is nearly of a circular form, and about 4 m9es in diameter, b is bounded by the pariihes of Strathmiglo, Abemetky, Drou, Forgandenny, Forteviot, and OrweL In this pariih there b a confiderable variety of foU. Upon fome of the hills it s light and ihallow; but there are feveral banks of very ricb fertile ground, capable of producihg almoil any crop. He hills are generally green, and afibrd excellent paihnre. Thm is more land in j>afittre than in tillage in ^iiis fariSu There
Tcft two or three moors, moftly covered wkh heath \ and there is very little meadow ground in the parifli. The arable ground is let at more than 20 s. an acre. It is not many years iince the praAice of indofing began here } and it k only a few years fince grafi was fown. Seed time, if the feafon anfwersi begins in March or April, and harvcft in>Sep« tember and October. The parUh fupplies itfelf with the no- cefiaries of life ; and fends to market corn^ butter, checfe^^ f#wl6, cattle, and fome iheepr
jAr^ and Di/lemfers .^^The air is pure and wfaolefome^. The inhabitants are not opprefled with exceffive heat in fummerf nor do they fuffer intenfe cold in winter, as the hoar froft ia lefs frequent and fevere than in low places. The moft com- mon diflempers are tolds, which in feveral inftanccs termi* aate in conTumptions. The (curvy is likewife a common di£> order, which originates, as is liippofed, from the frequent ufe of oat meal. Agues were frequent fome years ago ; but there has not been a fiogk perfen affiiAed with that difeafe fince
Pcpulation^f—Tot a long time pafl, the population of thtt pariih feems to have been nearly the fame.
Return of the inhabitants to Dr Webfter • 736
Inhabitants, anno 1790 r . • 554
Annual average of births from 1783 is nearly • 16
of deaths exaAly • • • 14 m of marriages within the parifli, during
- the fame period, nearly • • • ^
The number of perfons under xo years of age is » x 27
Between 10 and 20 . • • • lae
Between ao and ^ « • • • 229
Between
4 1 6 Siaij/Ncai Account
Between 50 and 70 jean of age • • • 61
Above 70 • • • • • 16
Jferiton (alt of whom except 4 refide in the paiifli} 32
Freeholders . • • • • i
Varmera • • • • • » 34
Mechanka • • * , « 2;
Seceders • • • • « 15a
Induding herdsy there are 59 male, and 3 j; female Ssmat%p who refide in the families which thej ferve. Several others have families of their own. The people are (ceminglj con- tent with their condition; They are generally frugal i and almoft all of them fobcr and decent.
p^0r.— -There are 7 poor people, who*are every month ibp« plied with a quantity of meal. The higheft allowanoe k 9 pecks ; the loweft 2. Money is alfo diftributed to fome of them occailonally. - About 16 acres of land were purchaied hy the feffion, for the benefit of the poor, in 1726, at a6oo merks : They now let for L. 15 Sterling fer annum, Thh, with L. 4 : 5 : o Sterling, the intereft of a fund, with what arifes from the u(e of the mort-cloth, and the ordinary col* leAions at the church, conftitute all that is applied to the re^ lief of the poor. The colle£Hon at the church from Whit* fimday 1789 till Whitfunday 1790, amounted to L. S : o : 10 Sterling. In 1782 and 1783, the managers of the poors funds collected a voluntary contribution through the parifli for fuch of the lower ranks as were in diftrefied drcum- Ihmces.
Wagiu^r^ day^s wages tot a labonrer m hufbandry is xod. ; for a Wright is.; for a mafon often is. 8d.; for a tay« lot 6d. and 8 d« with his viAuals. The ufual wages of male
iervantt
if Arngajk. 4^7
fcrroirta a« L. fi, and fomcumc^ U 7 Sterling perMtium^ .wuh their iriflilals. Hie wages of fcmak fcrvints arc about X.. 2 : jp : 0. The prices of provifio^is in this pariQi are rc- «uUlcd hy ^e pcisbbouriag tQWjis, Pcrtli, ^linroii, &c,
C:hurck,^Hd^Stipend.^^zct of the church, at IcaiV muft lia« bfOR huBt before Xh(t Reformation, as there is a.placc in the wallior the font ; and the ftaiue qf <he foundrcfs (dud to havc.bcen .% Mrs B^FcJay) h^s the beads, jufed by Catholics ^an^9g roond the hands. The chur<:h was oxiginally a cha- pelj bHiUfor.tbeaccproippdationof t!ie family of Balvaird, and their depexidants. The Aipcud is L. 5 13 : »9 ? 3 Scots, *vith |Q hf^\^ %9d I firlo^,of meal ; the glebe is fcirccly worth i.. 6 Siwliflg) fo ihgx when tbe ipcal fells at 16 s. a boll, the ilipend, iocluding the glebe, will amount to about L. 70 Ster- ling. The mafife was repaired about 10 years ago. The church has got few repairs for thefe laft 100 years. Mcflrs Davfdind Adam Low of Eaft Fordcl are joint patrons.
Mlfcellanecus O^rw/ww.— There is one quarry of good "whin-ftone in the pariflb, and more might be difcovercd if the ground were dug to a fufficicnt depth. After much rain, the river comes down witli great force. It is faid, that, in the place where a barley mill now ftands, a fulling mill was entirely fwcpt away by a flood. There arc about 52 ploughs in this parifh; many of them are drawn by oxen-, but the nun^ber of fuch ploughs is gradually diminifliing. There is only I two-wheeled chaife. A very fmall hill ftands nc^r Damhead, between the new road to Kinrofs and the water of Farg, which is called Gallow-Ilill, where it is fiiid ftood a g-llows, upon which pcrfons bciongmg to the barony of Bal- vaird were executed during the feudal fyftem. On the fouth of Eaft Fordcl houfc (here is a piece of ground named the -Vox-. I. » 3G Optaiu-
4^8 Stafljlkd Auoum
Captain- Ward, (becaufe therci it is alleged, Oliver Grooivdl pitched his camp, and lodged in the houfe of FordeiL The highway between Perth and Queensfeny pafib throogh tbk parilh. Many of the roads are in a ftate of nature* The ia- habitants highly approve of turnpikes : Some pay the fiatnte- labour half in kind and half in money. There are 3 coos- tics which meet in this parifli \ the county of fife to the eaft, divided by the river Farg from the county of Perth to the weft and north- weft, and the county of Kinross, which bon- ders with both thefe counties, to the fouth. The real rent is not known, as the lands are generally occupied by the pro- prietors. The valued rent of the pariih is L. 1600 Scots. A hpufe and yard are let at about 10 s. There are at pftfiat feyeral uninhitbited houfcs. Thel« are 133 inhabiteiL
KU3C
(fbumUchetu 419
K I^ M B E It ^III. PARISH OF DtJMNICHEN.
Sltuathn^ Extent^ tmd ifaMB.
THIS parUh is fituated io the countf of Forfar^ It is 15 miles to the norlh-eaft of Dundee, 9 north-wefi of Arbroath, and 34 fouth-eaft frbm Forfai^v It is bounded oil the eaft by the parifli of Forfar ; on the north by Recobie ; 6n the iouth by Carmiflie ; and on the fouth and eaft by the pariihes of Kirkden and Recobie. It contains about 3200 Scots acres. It takes its naitoe from the largcft hill in the parifli. Dim^ a Gaelic Word, is invariably applied in Scot* land CO hills on which Tome caftlc) or place of ftrength^ has ftood $ Icikn is unknown^ but probably a proper name. On the Touch fide of the hill is an eminence, noi^ called Ca(helis» t>r Caftle-hill, with vifible remains of the foundation of fbme amient buildings The only other hill in this pariih is called Dumbarrow, probably from having been the burial plaee of fome perfon of eminence. A rock on its north fide is Itill tailed Arthur's Seat. This hill is not fo high as that of Dun* nichen. The hill of Dunnichen was lately meafured with great geometrical accuracy. The mill ftream of Muinon fulling mill, at the bafe of the hill, is aoQ feet above low wa- ter mark in the harbour of Arbroath ) and the height from
that
4«o^ S{at^iud Afmna
that ftream to the higbeft part of the road over the bilT ts 443x7 ^^^y above which the higbeft faramit of the bill snay rife about 80 or xco feet ^ fo that the height of the liili is about 700, or 720. feet above the level of the fea. T&e hill of Dunnichen mns about 3 miles, ia a fbuth-caft dire£HoQ ; its fummit forming the northern boundary of the parifh. The parHh extends, from ea/V to weft, aboiit ^ vailcs, and from fouth to northi ia one place, about 3 miles. narrovHng a little ro the eaftward.
Divifion of Prcpertjt and Defiription of &// and Surface. — This pari(h confills of three eftates :
Acres. Dunnichen, containing • . • 1 800
Dunbarrow • , . • • . « 600
Tullows, conjeAured • » • • 8od
Total 3200
llie foil, in general, is fenile, producing wheat, flax, oats, and barley. The feafons are late, 00 accouot of us clevatioD. One field is now Town with wheat near the fomipit otthe bill of Dunnichen^ and at leaft 500 feet above the level of the fea \ no finall proof of the poilibiHty cf cxtcnd;ag agricultore fDCcefsfulIy on the fides of the high AiUs of Scotland* Dun« fiichen, containing about ;o acres, is. in the center of the pea- rifh. The mofs of >t was drained about 3.0 years ago, sad now afibrds a large ilipply of peats : In all probability it will furnifii the neigbbourhood with fuel for aboi^t 30 years long- er! an^ nis^T tt^cn be made a rich meadow. The reft of the fuel is coal, brought by land from the port pf Arbroath ^ and a fmall fupply from cxteafive fir plantations about 30 year* «ld.
' Mivtrff bV.-^This pariih contains no river nor lake, h Is watered hj one fmall brook, called Vinny» fome fay Finny^ or Attle, which takes it^ rile in a neighbouring moCe. It runs from weft to eaft, stlong the fouth bafe of the hill of Dunnichen, and in its courfe turns one flax milly and one xnill for waflxing yarn. It joins Lunan water about 4 miled below. The burn of Craichy» which forms one of its four* ce$t turns a corn mill. It contains, fome trouf, much dimi- nifhed of late in their number, by flax being fteeped in and near its ftream. A fmall brook runs out of the mofs of Dunnichcn, and falls into Vinny alt the caftern extremity of the parifh.
Manufa£lures^ Fillagei^ and Fairs. — Many weavers, princi- {xflly of courfe linen, inhabit this parifh. An attempt is now makiog to inth>duce the manufaAure of coarfe cottons. Dun<- ^ichen is itfelf a very fmall vilbge, codfifting of the houfes'of the proprietor, the manfe, a public houfe, and the haufes of a few mechanics and labourers, not exceeding 14 in all. To the eaftward is the village of Drimmitormont, a very old vil- lage, inhabited by Weavers, each of whom occupy fix or eight nicies of land. In the year 1788, a farm of 66 acres, called Lethsfm, has been laid out by the proprietor of Dunnichca for a village. Streets have been marked out on a regular plan, and lots of any extent are let upon perpetual leafes^ at the rate of L; 2 an acre. It contains already about 20 families^ •and new houfcs are rifing on it daily, the fituation being fa- Tdurable for fuch a plan, by having Vinny water on the fouth^ the perennial brook of Dunnichen mofs running through it, plenty of freeftones on the farm itfclf, and thriving woods and a mols in its neighbourhood. Here a fair or market has .lately begun to be held, once a fortnight, on Thurfdays, for the fale of cloth^ yarDj and flax ^ and L. 400 or L. 500 are
fome-
^i« Staii/lical AccoiM
ibmetimes l^etufned in one market-day. An old elbblillied fair IS annuallj held at Donnichen, on the 2d Wednefdaj of Marthi old ftyle, called the (air of St Caofnan. It is a tojr hkp at which neithe:^ horfes, com, nor cattle^are fold.
Church and Stipend. — ^The church is ftnall and old« II was dedicated to St Caufoan. Hiere are fome doubts, even in the Popifli kalcndar, of the exiftencc of this faint, akhough I large well near the church alio bears his name ; and the ialls of fnow, which generally happen in March all over Great Britain, is in this neighbourhood called St Caufnan's Fhv. The mioifter*s ftipend is about L. 70 a year, paid chiefly Id oat* meal and barley, befides a glebe of 4 arable acres, and i acres of gtafs ground.
&W.— There is a parlfh fchool here. The fchoolmd"- ter*s falary is L. 8 : 6 t o yearly, with a hoaft, fchool-houfe, and kitchen-garden. The prefcht fchoolmaftcr, by his affi* duous application to the duties of his office, has raifed a con^ iiderable fchool, having feldom fewer than jo or 60 fcholart, t^hom he teaches to read and write EngliOi, arithmetic, and Latin, when any of the children require that branch of cdo^ cation*
State of th Poor, Parochial Funds^ and Records, '^^Thest may be about a dozen of poor and indigent perfons belong- ing to this parifli, principally reduced to poverty by old age or diftempers. A fufficient fond for their maintenance anfes from the Voluntary contHbutionS of the parifliloncrs, collcAed on Sundays, and at the time of the facramcnr. it amounts at prefent to about L. 20 Sterling a year, and Is yearly increa- iing ^ and from it a refcrve of L. 62 : i : to has bctn mack as a provifioi] fbr bad feafons. Of thele poor people feme
receive
^ Dimmcim^
4n
nccive t qnarterly, ,and (bme a weekly sdlowance, Mcmrdiog as their neceiSties require. The fasd is managed by the clergjtnan and kirk-f(pffion, who being intimately acquainted with the circymftan^es of every poor perfon in the pari(h» are eoaUcd thereby to proportion the fupply to their wantt and exigencies.
^ This^parifli affords oney among perhaps many ii|ftanoes-in Scotland, how fafely the maintenance of the poor may be left to Che humane and charitable difppfition -of the people, and bQw unneceflary it i^ to call in pofitive laws to their affiiU ance \ for, if fuch laws provide fu%ds for maiataining the poor, they alfo provide poor for confuming the funds.
Populaiion.'^This parifli has much increaied in its popula* tion fince the returns made to Dr Webfter about 40 yeara ago, and it dill continues on the increafe. At the above mentioned period, it contained only 612 inhabitants i where* as it appears, from a furvey made laft year, that their i^umber amounts to 872, whereof 75 belong to the anti-burgher meetings of Forfar and Dumbarrow. An abftraA of the mar* riages, baptifmS| and burial^t for the laft tea years, is fub^ joined.
|
Tears. |
Baptifms, |
Marriages. |
Buriab, |
|
|
1781 |
• |
»9 |
10 |
14 |
|
1782 |
• |
19 |
»5 ■ |
20 |
|
J783 |
• |
89 |
9 |
12 |
|
1784 |
t |
22 |
5 |
>3 |
|
1785 |
• |
25 |
12 |
3* |
|
1786 |
• |
24 |
7 |
45 |
|
1787 |
« |
«9 |
> ** '. |
t 14 |
Y^ari.
|
B# |
SkUiftuU Jeemai |
|
|
T««nr |
Ba|>l^iiis. Marriage |
Bari4^ |
|
1788 |
22 . 4 . |
t^- |
|
«T^ |
33 • »4 • |
ta. |
|
1790 |
25 . 3 . |
• »4 |
237
Yeatlj average 24
89
19*
»9
■ A& the dirprop«rt!on between the 'detittis «f aides »id i» Bulet atppears fomewbat eztraordiaary^ it b ia<ei9«d friN« $he grave-digger's Repwt;
|
Men. |
Women |
||
|
• 1781 |
• |
ii |
3 |
|
1782 |
• |
18 |
2 |
|
1785 |
• |
9 |
3 |
|
1^84 ' |
• |
* II |
2 |
|
178J |
• |
27 |
3 |
|
1786 ^ |
• |
40 |
5 |
|
• V787 |
• |
12 |
2 |
|
1788 |
• |
• ' 18 |
i 0 |
|
1789 |
• |
7 |
3 |
|
•r |
— |
||
|
• - |
.»" |
23 |
|
|
Difproportion nearly' 6| |
to one. |
Mo^£ of Cultivation dnd Pr«/«r^,— This parilh, like the reft of the country, has of late received' confiderable improve- xnents in agriculture. About 30 years ago, *the old fyftem began to be altered. Leafes, Which formerly* were few, and feldom granted for a longer \erm than 9 years^ have lately
• * been
been gnntcd for tp yearsi and the life of the tenant, and feme hr longer and more indefinite terms. On the principal cftate in the partAi called Bunnichcn all fervitudcs were abo» hihcd, fin. thirlage to the mill and blackfrnith's (bops, car« riages, and bonnage^ a word of Gothic extraAion^ which means {hearing corn. Money-rent was {bbflltuted in the place of oat-meal^ barley, kane-fowls \ yarn, and mill fwine. The farms were inclofcd with fences of free-flone. Better houfes and offices were built* The breed of cattle and hor- ies was impro¥cd. Turnip, potatoes^ kale, and clover and rye-grafs, were planted and fown for winter proviiion. The diftinAion of out and infield was laid afide, and all the field* were cropt and cultivated in due rotation. But thefc im« provements were much facilitated by means of a valuaUe ma- nure whick began to be ufed about that time in this and the neighbouring pariihes, viz. (hell- marl, to which the late confiderable increafe of the value of the lands may in a great sneafure be afcribed* This valuable manure bemg found In greater plenty in this neighbourhood than any where elfe in the kingdom, or even perhaps in the known world, it may BOt be thought impertinent to dcfcribe it more particularly. About two miles north from Dunnichen, there are a chain of lochs which abound with marl, viz. the lochs of Forlar^ Reititiethf Recobie, and Balgavic< In tfacfc loch^, jt lay long an maccefllble treafure^ till, about forty-five years ago^ Capuin Strachan, proprietor o£ the loch of Balgaviiss, began to drag It, much in the fame manner that ballall is dragged from the bed of the river Thames.. This he performed with jb much luccefs, as not only amply to fupply his own farms^ but to have a furplus for his neighbours* His example was Vol. I. 3 H foon
* Part of the rent was formerly paid in f^wls, which were called kane.
42$ Staiftieal Account
foon followed on the ether lochs ; and, about 30 ye&n ag% ' the late Earl of Strathmore^ by means of a drain, lowered the furface of the water of the loch of Forfair, thereby openmg a ftill more extenfive fupply of marl ; and^ in the year 1790^ Mr Dempfier of Dunnichen drained the loch and moG of iteftineth, by which an inexhauftible mafs of (hdl*marl has been made accciEble. Marl is fold at 8 d. a boll, contain- ing 8 folid feet j (ixty bolls are commonly ufed for the firft dreffing of an acre of land. Its qualities are precifdy the fame with thofe of lime Which of thefe manures is prefe- rable* has been long a fubjeA of frequent difpute among the fermers; but the chemical analyfis of marl (hews clearly that marl is in every refpcA the fame with lime, and paflefies the additional advantage of being found in a pulverifed ftatc, and requiring no calcination previous to laying it on the land. The fimilarity of the two has been fttll farther evinced by Mr Dempfter having conftrufted a kiln on a plan fuggefled by Pr Black • for calcining marl, which^ after calcinatioa,
. makes
* The conftrudioii of the kilns and method of calcining -the marl, will appear from the loUowing extrad from a letter of Dr £lack*s to George DtmplUr, £fq; dated a8th November 1789.
*< There is no doubt but that fuch marl as you delcribe may be burned to very sood lime, if the proper degree of heat caa be applied to it In a country where the only fuel is peat, I have no hopes of fuccefs with the Reverberatory With fuch fuel, m Inch a furnace, it w«mld be cxpenfive beyond meafure, and perhaps impradli cable, to produce the ncceffary degree of heat* Neither is the experiment likeiy to fucceed in a dr^v- )^iln, in whicn lo much dult and rubbifh muft be produced by the defceni of the lime, and attrition ut the mafTes againtt one another, chat the pa/Tages for the air woold be too much ob« flru^ed But, in a kiln In which the mafles of matl would be little di Curbed, the operation might fucceed very well. I wnuid (heicforc prepare the marl as the harder kinds of peat are pre- pared in fome places^ by laying it, while foft^ on a plot ^f
^raAi
9f DunnkhiH 497
a Tery ilrong 'cemcnt« The calcination of marl will| it is hoped, prove an uleful difcovery in this neighbourhood, to which other Mme muft be fetched from the diftance of 14 or \€ miks.
The improvements made in this parifli have been princl- ^lly confined to the eflates of Dunnichen and Dumbarrow, Dunnichen paid, about 30 years agp» nearly L. 300 of yearly
reur^
jrafs, and forming it into a bed feme Inches thicic ; this bed^ vhile drying, may be a little compacted, by beating it with the' flat of the fpade or (hovel, and, before it be quite dry, it may be cot into pieces of the fize of peats. The heft kiln for burning it ihould have nearly the fliape of a draw kiln, or fhould have a much deeper cylindrical cavity than the vulgar kilns in which I'une \% burnt ; it may be from 20 to 30 feet deep, and from 8 to 9 feet in diameter \ the top of it fhoald be covered with a dome or arch, having an opening at top, 3 feet diametery td let out the fmoke, &c. and a door in the fide of this dome for Introducing the materials ; at the bottom, where the kiln is a little coDtraAed, (hould be a grate 5 feet fquare, the bars of which being loofe, might be drawn out occafionaily. In char^ ^ng this kiln, lay firft 1 8 inches depth of peats over the whole grate, then throw in prepared marl and peat» intermixed until the kiln is filled to the top, and at the top of all there Ihould be fome peats without any man \ then fhut up the door at the top ot the kiln with ftones and mud, and throw in the kindling at the vent of the dome. The fire will be flowly communicated from the top to the bottom, fo as to charr tHe whole peats, and to expel the rjcmains of humidity from the maiTes of marl ; and this will be accompanied with very little confumption of the in- flammable matter ; but, when the whole is charred, it will be* gin to burn with abundance of heat, firft at the bottom, and gradually upwards, until all the peati are completely conlumed. Then, by drawing the bars of the grate, the kiln may be drawn. I cannot fay what proportion the peats Ihould bear to the marlf but am of opinion that a very moderate proportion may be fuf* ficieat in the middle and upper parts of the kiln. To know whether the marl is thoroughly burnt, flake the lime with wa- ter when frefli drawn from the kiln, and try if the flaked limer will diflblve in ai^uafoitiSi or /piric offidt, without effsrvef* cenc?."
49t Stat0ieat Accoma
rent, in conii money, and other articles, in kind. Tbe firm- buildings were ruinous hoveb; the ground was ovcr-roa
with broom, and furz or whins, and manj parts of-the araMc land were wet and boggy, and all without trees, k kas« iince that time, been drained and indofed* Moft of tbe muirs, which make a fifth part of the cftate, have beea planted with thriving timber. The fences of many of the fields are furrounded with hedge- row trees. Hie land has been marled. The preieot rents may be fully treble the fbrnier. The arable ground now lets, when out of leafc, firom L. I to L. 1 : lo : o per acre* The meaneft cottager is now better lodged than the former principal tenants. Wheat grows well on ieveral of the fi^rms. There is no where better flax, turnips, potatoes, and artificial grafics. There are feveral difllerent fyftems of cropping the ground. The rotation of the beft land is oats, flax or fallow for wheat with dung, barley, and fown down with grafs feeds, grals for the three or four following years. A iecond rotation is, two crops of oats, a crop of barley, a green crop, a crop of oats or iNurley, with dung, and fi»wn down with grafi-^fceds^ hay cut one year, and the grafs padured three or four. Tea bolls of wheat are railed oo an acre, and fixtcea fione of fcutched flax •. The mclofcd fields are let for 40 or 50 s. an acre for pafture, and for L. 5 an acre for flax. Compofl dunghills are in general ufe, with a certain proportion of marl, about 8 or 10 bolls to an acre, which is found to an- fwer well ; and it is generally now underftood that, if fields are not over-cropt, they cannot be over-maried. It is difli- cult to afccrtain accurately the increaied produce of an acre, in confequence of the improved agriculture. But it is uni- verfally allowed that the farmers were poorer when the rent
of
* A done of flax is worth la s«
m£ ch^ir laAd wsafrom 4 to 5 s. ati adWi tbaa now lehen thej pay tiirec «r four times that fuxn. •
Mlmrals.'^Xix^ fearch has ixen made for miaenis ia this parifb. The moft vahiable is firer.or grit flone ; it ia -eafily quasrted, and is fonnd in every part of the hill of Dua« sichen, and other par^^s of the porifh, and is very fit for bmid^ log houfes and * ftone-fences> A few ftrata of whin-ftpnef appear in fome places, and a coarfc iroiKbar \n the IvlU No lytnptofn of coal has as yet discovered itfelf any Iwhere in thiff county. - . - : .. .V
Air and CfimMttB — The air of tbts parifli b fuppofisd to bd remarkably heaKhy, from the many old people in it ; and tlie cKmate is nearly^ file Cicie with thacof all the eafterd coofft of the iDand, In the fprmg, and beginning of biniOieri eafterif winds generally prevail after mid-day^ . attended with chillU aefs, and lometimes fogs, though in a left degree than neareii ¥be coaft of the German Ocean. The heavieft rains come ia autumn and winter, from the fouth-eaft^ attended byviolene windsi which laft iometimes two or three days, and occur twice or thrice in the year.
Antiquities — ^There are onl^ a few antient tumuli or bar* rows in the parifli, which, when opened, are fdund to con- Iftiln human bones, in rough f\one coffins.* Pots of a coarfe earthen ware are alfb fometimes found in thefia. Neither coins nor arms have as yet been difcovered in or ifear them, to aflifl our conjeAures as to their date. In the mo/s of Dunnichcrt have been found vsry large roots of oak trees, and fome horns of the red* deer, and alio a ftratum of coarfe marl bdovr the mdfs, and»fix fccr tmder fand. -
When the cfftote was begun to be Impird^ed) mmf (rf* t6c tenants^were unable Md 'atr«He fd the modem (yftem. The(e were getaeralfy lefi in pofRffion of their hdufc$<» widi a fmaH portion of land| on a leafe for their own life and that of their I wives. The remainder of the ground ^as hid out into new farms, and let to more enterprising tebants.
It may not be improper to explain the meaning of ibme words ofed is this accoimt, which, though weQunderftood at prefent, will reqnire to be explained to after generations, full as much as the moft barbarous caftoms erf our rader anceftors require to be explamed to us*
Thirlagi ♦.—When the proprietor of » barony or eftatc tniilds a corn-mill on it, he obliges all his tenants to em* ploy that mill, and no other, and to pay ibmetimes nearly double what the com might be ground for at another milL As this fervitude tends to make millers carelefs and faucy,- it will without doubt foon be univerfally aboli(hed»
Smddy or Smitffs Shop. — ^Formerly one blackfmith, who was aUo a farrier, was only allowed to exercife his buflneft on a barony or eftate He had the exclufive privilege of doing all the blackfmith and farrier work. For this he paid a imall rent to the proprietor, and every tenant paid him a certain quantity of corn. About thirty years ago, a perfon of this dcfcription had this fole right on the baronj of Dun- nichen, for which he paid L. i yearly.
&ri/ir//.— Thefe arc of various kinds. On fomc eftatcs,
the
• Seme of thefe cuftoms have been briefly explained in differ. •^ent notes in various parts of this volume.
if Dunnicbefu 4 jj
*fhe tenants are bound to dig, to diy, and to fetch home and build up, as much peat as is neceflaiy for the proprietor's fa- €l through the year. In this manner the tenants are em« ployed during moft part of the fummer. It prevents then from fallowing and cleaning their grounds, fetching manures from a diftance, fowing turnip, &c. Oh other eftates, it (s xhe duty of the tenants to carry out and fpread the dung for manuring the proprietor's land 4n the feed time, which fre- quently interferes with his own work of the fame kind. It is alfo the duty of the tenants to fetch from the neighbour- ing fea-ports all the coal wanted for the proprietor's ufe. The tenants are alfo bound to go a certain number of errands, ibmetimes with their carts and hoHes, and fometimes a<*foot, a certain number of long errands, and a certain number of •ifaort ones, are required to be performed, A long errand is what requires more than one day. This is called carriage^ Tenants are alfo expefled to work at any of the proprietor'^ work a certain npmber of days in the year. In ibme placet^ this obligation, it is faid, extends to 52 days, or a day in the week.
Bonnagi-^h an obligation, on the part of the tenant, to cut down the proprietor's corn. This duty he muft perform when called on. It fometimes happens, that, by cutting down the proprietor's crop, he loies the opportunity of cut- ting down his own.
This whole catalogue of cuftems is To advcrfe to agricul- ture, and to the true interefts of the proprietor, that, in a -fhort time, their very names will probably be obfolete, and the nature of them forgotten.
'iThe following plan of a navigable canal, not indeed -within Vox. h 3 I *he
434 S/sti/lml Account
ihc bounds of the parifli^ yet» being coane£ted with it^ 01^ to be mentioned. In the year 17889 Mr Whitworth the en- gineer was employed to take a furvey of the country^ fior the purpofe of briogiog a navigable canal firom the port of Ar- broath to Forfar. That ^.eatleman made out an accurate plan of this canal, which he reported to be highly prafUcaUe. It required 25 locks to conduA it from Muirton Fulling Mill to Arbroath i the diftance 13 miles 1 firlong and 2 ' chains; the perpendicular height above low water-mark 196 feet. The expence he computed at L. 17,78^8 : 17 : 8. As there is no reafon to believe the trade on this canal would at pre- fent defray this expence^ the plan is laid aiide^ and the fur* veyor's Report is depoGted in the town-clerk's offices iii For^ far and Arbroath. This ufeful work will probably be refo- med again when the country ihall have attained more wealdi, and further improvements. It would ferve to convey coali limei and wood, into the center of a very populous country 4«ftitute of thefe articles*
WtJM-
^f e^mylU^ 435
NUMBER XLIV. t^ARISH OF CARMYLIEt
By tie Rev. Mr PATRiqit 3rtcb»
Origin ef the Name, ^^T^ H E pariih of Carmylie fiirni(hes very little rco{)e for ''- ftatiftical inquiry. The origin of the name cannot now be afcertained. In feme antient records of the prefbj- tery it is called Carmylie, probably from the high grounds which compofe the greateft part of it : But this is merely conjefhiral. Pk«irious to the period of the Reformatioui the church was a chapel, biult by the heritor of the eftate of Car* mylie, where the Monks from the Abbey of Aberbrothock, in its vicinityi performed divine fervice, according to the rites of the Church of Rome, in their courfes. It was erected in- to a parochial charge, after the Reformatioo, by the Lords Commiffioners for Plantation of Kirks»
Situation^ Extent^ and ProduHiens.^^Tht pariih lifituated in the county of Forfiir, prcfbytcry of Abcrbrothock, and (ynod of Angus and Mearns. It is of an obiong form } furround* ed by the pariflies of Panbride, Guthrie, Monikie, Kirkdeni Dunnichen, Inverkillor, St Vigians, and Arberlot. It is about 3 miles long, from eaft to weft, and about 4 miles broad, b may be called a hilly and mountainous tnEt of
ground|
l^^ Staii/Hcal AcMmi
groundi wlien cooipared with the contcrmioous pttUfic^ The land is wet and fpungy, and was thought, fame years ago, CO be better adapted for pafture than for grain. About 20 years ago, there were many fiirms in the pari(h occupied by farmers in the neighbourhood^ who ured them for gra« zing their cattle in thcf fummer p but, ever finoe that time^ the proprietors have obliged the tenants to refidc Co them ; who, by driving lime and marl to their refpeCUve hrms^ and by draining their lands by funk fences, &c. hate greatly me- liorated the ground, and for feveral years have railed' heavy crops ) which, though they were not equal in quality, yet, in quantity, were not inferior to tho(e produced on the groonds in the neighbourhood, that have been long in a proper fiate of cultivation. On a very moderate compuration^ therHs four tSmcs the quantity of grain, efpecially of barley, raifed in this parifh than there war ao years ago;
Rent.-^Tht land rent b fuppoied ta be about L. looa Sterlii^. It has rifen about a third wilhio- tbefe laft 20 years* There ave only 3 heritors inthe parifli) none of whom refidc in it.'
Church and Stipend^ C9V.«-Tfae walls of the church were repaired about 40 years ago, and a new roof was thrown oves it laft fummer. It is decently fitted up within far the ac- commodation of the congregation, who are a fober and io- duftrious people, and regular in their attendance on divine ordinances. The ftipend amounts* to about 400 merks Scors in money, and a little more than 5 chalders of viAuaL The manfe was built about 1 8 years ago. There are very good funds for the poor ; and they are liberally provided lor with* out any afleflmeot on the heritors*
PcptJatwu
tf Carmyliel iyf^
^({^MAifi0ff.<— The -population of the parlfiit as returned to Dr Webfter about 40 years ago, was 730 fouls. It has fince rather decreafed. Some mechanicsi efpecially weaversi have removed to the trading boroughs of Dundee and Aberbrothocky where thej meet with good encouragement from the manu* £i£hiring companies in thefe towns. Its inhabitants may now amount to about 700. The number of burials do not exceed 15 or 18 yearly. The births are from 20 to 24 annually. There are very few difienters in the parilh ; not exceeding ao. There is only i brewer ; 4 perfons retaif ale.
School.-^Thett is a- parochial fchoolmafter here. His fa- lary is 100 merks Scots ; a houle^ but no garden. The per* ^uifites belongmg to him are very inconfiderabk. His whole income does not exceed L. 20 Sterling. He has about 50 icholars in winter, and 30 in fummer. Much praiTc is due tether people for promoting and encouraging the education of the youth of both lexes. They have fubfcribed a certaiD ixasi for building a fchool<heuie-; and are determhied to give every fupport in their power to the perfon who is to have the charge of inftruding the girit in the different biancbee of needlework.
. £xrir, C2fr.-->Thedortereb, birds of pafTagey alight on the rifisg grounds about the beginning of April, continue here about ihfce weeks, remove to the Grampian Hilis, about I2 miles to the northward, and revifit this plrifli about the be* ginning of Auguft : After abiding here about three weeksy. they &y off to the fouthwatd, and are not (cen till the ift of April fbUowing. There are <|uarcies.of grey flate and pave« ment ftones here, which have beik wrought for fome centu- ries. They fiipply the neighboumpdi and arc exported to Fifci Perthfhirei the Mearns, ftc ^
NUM.
43< StatiftUal Atcamt
NUMBER XLV. t^ARISH OF PANBRIDE^
J3y the Riv. Mr Robert Trail.
Namtf Situation, Extent , and Sufface.
THERE is reafon to believe that this pariih Irat called Pasbridge about 200 yean agO| and that it was an abreviatioa o£ Panbridget ; the chorch here, wUch is voy dd, being built by St Bridget^ or at leaft in honour of her* An infcription has been feen on an old grave fione, mention- log that it was ereAed in memory of fuch a pcribn of tbe pariih of Panbridge. Pan is probably a cortoptioQ of the Latin word fanumt if fo, Panbride fignifies Bridget's church. This pariih is iituated in the county of Forfar, in the iynod of Angus and Meams, and in the prefbytery of Aberbrothock. It is more than 5 miles long, and about 2 broad. It is bound* ed by the fea on the ibuth \ by the pariCbes of Barrie and Mo- nikie on the weil ; by Carmylie on the north ; by Arbirlote on the north'Caft ; and a detached part of St Vigtans on the (buth»eail. The general appearance of the country here is vather flat than hilly} but there is a confiderable declivity foe ibme miles from the north to the fouth end of this pariih. The ihore is flat, and very rocky.
Pepulati^u
jp^«£afMiv.--Dr Wel)fter!s ftate • ; 1259
In 17659 the Dumber of inljabitants was exafkly 1183
In 1790 • • • • • 1460
Annual average of baptifins from i 762 till 1 790 . 39
' of burials from 1767 till 179P • 27
> olF marriages . . • 19
Seceders • • • • • • • 20
Kpifcopalians • • • * • • • 4
Indcpendants • • • • .2
Heritors , .. i
The number of baptifms in 1790 was 55, which is 4 mor^ than was ever known here before.
PoQf. — ^The number of poor varies from 8 to 10: They are all maintained in their own houfes; and there is not a beggar in the parifh. But| befides the ordinary jpoor, ther^ is a confiderable number of houfeholders in indigent circum- fiances, each of whom get a boll of coals from the fefEon yearly. The funds bearing intereft do not much exceed L. 100; but a confiderable fum arifes from the mortcloth and hearfe fees. The weekly coUeftions in church are from 5 s. to 7 s. or 8 s.
Stipend. — ^The fiipend is \ chalder of wheat, 3 chalders of oatmeal| 2 chalders of barleyi and L. 30 : 5 : 6 Sterling; in which fum is included L. 5 for communion elements. The glebe confifts of 4 acres, 1 rood, and fome fidb, of very good land. The }Qng is patron*
Mifaltamous Ot/ervation/.-^Thcre is one mineral ipring of. the chalybeate kind, but it is not much frequented. There is plenty of fea-weed along the coaft for manuring land ; hut it has rarely been made into kelp. HaddockS| cod, &c. were
wont
'mm SioAJHcal Acctnmi
wont to be caught here \ but for fome ytvs psft fcarcelj any luddockfi have been ieeo. Every crew pays 5 aicrks for the privilege of fiililng. The price of provifioni and labours greatly increaled. About 27 years ago, beef was 2 d. a poond i St is now 3i d. and 4 d. A fowl, which could then have been iKKight for 5 d. is now 9 d. or 10 d« The pariih exports ar- ticles of provifion. A taylor's wages is 6 d. a day and his meat ;' a carpenters 8 d, and his meat. Some labourers get 6 d. and others 8 d. and their meat. The Englifli is the on- ly language fpoken here. Exduiive of the large indofores of PanmurCi the yearly rent of the parifh exceeds L. 1000. HeAor Boece's anceftors, for feveral generations> were lairds of Panbride. A (hort hiftory of the county of Angus^ writ- ten in elegant Latin by a Mr Edward, minifter of Murroes, in the prefbytery of Dundee, containing both a geographical defcription of it, and an account of cvtrj family of note^ was nublifhed m 1678*
NUM.
$f Lunani )f«l
iJV MBEK XLVI. l?ARiSH OF LUNAN,
£y tbi JR#v. Mr Gowams.
Nttfrii^ SkuaiiM^ Extent^ (S^c. iJT UfTAN, antiently Lounan, or Inverloanan, is fo called JLj from a river of that n^mei near the mouth of which the chiirch Hands: The fource of the river is a qaagmire, at a fmall village called Lunan-head^ in the neighbourhood of Forfar ; the Gaelic word Laomn fignifying boggy or marfliy ground. Lunan is fituated in the county of Forfar, prcft>]^« tery of Aberbrothock| and fynod of Angus and Mcarns. It is nearly a rcAanglCi abOiita miles long, and-i broad, being one of the fmalfeft pariQies in the county. It is bounded on the north by Marytown and Craig ( on the weft by Kinnell } oa the louth by Lunan water, which divides it froui InverkeiUor ; and on the eaft by the German Ocean. The extent of (ea- toaft is about a mile, being a portion of Lunan Bay, famous as a place of fafety for (hips in all hard gales, except thofe from the eaft. The (hore is fandy, and bounded with hil- locks overgrown With bent \ but the adjoining land is for the moft part fteep and high. The ground rifcs To rapidly from the river towards the north, that, when viewed from the fouth, the parifh lias the appearance of being fituated on the fide of a hill } butj at the top, it becomes again flat, and con- Vol. L 3 K tinues
'4# Stitiflical Accmmi
tinues (b to the diftaoce of ieveral miles beyond the parilb. The fitoation is at once pleafanty and adYaotageoos for agri- culture. The higher ground commands an eatenfii^ Tiev of the country around, and of the German Ocean % and die floping ground anfwers well for draining, which inmuij places is much wanted ; for the land abounds with boggs and fpriogSi or what hufbandmen call j^oir/x. 'the greateft part of the parifh ftands on rock of meor-ftone, commonly calkd fcurdy : It is of a dark blue colour, and of fo clofo a tcztort that water cannot penetrate it i and the furface of the ground, efpecially during the winter monthsi is coDfcquently verj loofe and wet. This rock is the only ftone found in the p»> riih fit for building. It is quarried by blading with gmk- powder, by which it is broke into fiich irregular pjecesi thai, unlefi the mafons be at uncommon pains, walls built of it are not water tight.
&r/, Product^ R/nt, b^c^—The foil of the higher part of the parilh is frequently ihallow j but of the lower, deep anJ rich, except a little on the fea*(hore, wUch is fandy. Tk land is on the whole feniic, and produces grain of the \x& quality. The rent of the arable land is at prcfont firom 9 s. to 158. Sterling an acre, but will probably be raifed at tk expiration of the prefent leafes, fome of which are not locg. No value is put on wafte or pafture ground. The valued rent of the parifh is L. 1550 Scots; th& ftal rent abcMt L. 525 Sterling.
There are eight farnts In the pariffi, very difFcrent in fir? and rent ; and this number hirs been the fame beyond thf memory of man. Six of ihcfc farms, called the Earony c: Lunan, ixieafuring 790 acres, including 196 acres of mcc-r, common to them all, belong to the Earl of Northcfk. At-
' 9fLunan. 443-
ttikle, xneaforing 400 acres, inclading i8c acres of moor, or coarfe pafture, belongs to Robert Stephen^ Efq; of Letham. XunaOy meafuring 215 acresi including 62 acres of moor and wade ground, belongs to Alexander Taylor Imray of Lunan. Ilie whole pari(h, accordingly, when the glebe is taken into the account, confifts of 973 acres arable, and 438 wafte land. Of thefe, 40 acres annually bear wheat, 187 barley, 270 oats, 45 turnip or cabbage, 10 potatoes or yams, 16 flax, 40 peafe, 324 ibwn grafs, and 40 lie fallow. Some tenants have made attempts to indole part of their farnos with fences of earth topped with furze \ but few of them are fo complete as to anfwer the purpofes of a fence* The farmers appear fully fenfible of the advantages of incloTures } and moft of thbm fai the neighbourhood have begun to* incloie with ftone^ walls ; a practice which would be generally adopted, were it not for the difficulty in fome places of getting ftones, and the (hortnefi of many leafes. The parifli does much more than fupply itfelf wit^ provifions ; more than one half of the produce being annually carried to market, to which there is eafy acccfs by the high road. This road, and the bridges on it, werexhiefly made, and have been hftherto wholly kept in repair, by the ftatute labour, whi^h was fometimes eza£led in kind, and fometimes commuted ; but, by an aA of parlia^ mentpafled 1790, it was made turnpike, which farmers at prefent confider as a very great grievance. The feafon for Towing wheat is OAober ; oats from the middle of March to the middle of April \ barley in May ; and turnip in June» Hay and harveft time generally continue from July to Sepe tember. There are in the pariih 250 black cattle, 62 bodes, 21 carts, and 16 ploughs, drawn ufually by 4 horfes or 4 oxen, except in the feed time, when 2 horfes only are ufed ; and then the number of ploughs are about a third more,
Pricei
444 StatiJlifalJamii.
Prki •/ Pr^wfimst Latmr^ Sinmnft JFag^, Isfc^ — Vt9^ fioDS have rifeo in price fince tlic coinnieoceiiietit of the pre- fent century at leaft two-thirds, and in ibme inftanycs more. Botcher meat is at prefent from 3 d« to 4 d. a ppiwd \ chk« kens 3 d. a pieces hens and ducks 1 s. 1 butter pd. aad checfe 3 d. a pound. The wages of a mafon are is. 8 d* a day \ of a carpenter IS, 4 d.; of ataylor is.| or <}d. with Yidnab; of a day labourer in hufliandry i s. The wages far harreft- work of a man are from L. i :5:otoL. i :io:o;ofa wo- jnao from 18 s.to ao s. The yearly wages of a male ferranc are fit>m L. 6 to L. 8 } of a female ieryant L. 3. Servants wages are nearly trippied within thefe laft 50 years. Far* jners prefer men fervaots who are unmarried to cottageni chiefly becaufe they are always at hand, while the cottagers go to their own houles after the ftated hours of labour. Cot* tagers, however, are preferred for harveft-ivork^ as they d^ pot require lodging, which \i WQuld be difficult tafiad fat fo many as are wanted at that feaibo. When a cottagfcr is employed through the whole year, which is done in a few inftances, he is allowed a houie and yard, with about L» 6 of ^ages. Some est in the farmer's houfe ( and others are al* lowed, in nafne of maintenance, 6 J bolls, or 52 ftqnes of oat* sneal, with pafture for a cow} but, in the latter caie, the wa- ges leldom exceed L 5, or L« 5 : 10 : o at moit. By the wages he receives, with the produce of h» wife's indufby, arifing chiefly from fpinnjng, he is enabled to live pretty comfortably, to bring up three or four children, and to give them an education fuitable to their ftation. It is evident, indeed, that doing this with an income of about I^ iq niuft require good economy ; but, unlefs it be wanting, there are no cottagers in ftraitened circumfiances. Their ordinary |bod confifts of meal, partly of oats, partly of barley, potatoes, and milk. A family of few perfonS| viz. a wife and four
(hildreoi
. ^ Lufunu 444^
ldU3dren» tke hiiilMUi4 eating at bis mafter*s taUc^ vill con- fiime 6 bolls of oat-meal, valine L« 4 ; 4 bolls of Darley-meaL valae L, i : 16 : o ; and 3 bolU of potatoes, value 10 s, 6 <L There remains at^ut L. 3 : 15 : o^ whiqb is j^enerally found adequate to all the other neceflaries of luch a fiimily.
P^ubxtm. — From comparing the prefcnt nucpber of inha« bited houie9 and of baptiffaiSj with thofe of any particular pc;riod of the prefent century, it does not appear that the pa« xiih has fuifered any material altieration in population, (f jthere be any difference at all, it feems rather to have increa- lied in a fmall degree. The pefent amount of its population is 2^1 \ of thefe 136 are females, and 155 males; among whom are 4^6 married or widowers, and 26 marriageable hatchelm. There are 46 fouls under 10 years of age, 74 from 10 to 20, ilk from 20 to 50, 51 from 50 to 7* ; and dfroip 70 to 100. The annual average of births, for 50 jrears backwards, is about j^, being in proportion to the whole population as i to 32, of marriages 3, and of deaths 4. i^ JFarmer's bmily, at an s^verage, confifts of 19 perfons. There are in the pari (h 13 weavers, i carpenter, i blackfmith, i ihoemaker, and 4 apprentices. 1 he number of fervants iz| ^e pari(h is 68 ; of people born in other pariflies there are 276 ; and it is remarkable that there is but i &rmer, and % very few other houfeholden, who were born ai^d now refide in the parifh. The number of children for each marriage is. at an average, about 4, All the inhabitants, except one fe« male fervant, who has only a temporary refidence in the pa« I'ifh, are of the eftabliflied church*
i
Church, — ^The value of the minifter's living, including the glebei at a moderate converfion of what is paid in viAual, if about ^8 guineas* The patronage of the pariih belonged td
•.•'■■■ ■• . ■ ^ ^
446 Statifiical Acewni
the Earl of Panmure^ and fell to the crown by forfeiture In' 1715 i but the reprefentative of that family is ftill titular of the tpinds. From that periods to 17811 the right of prefent- ing to the church Jay dormant, government being either ig- norant of the forfeiture, or not careful enough to claim the patf on^ge. The prefent incumbenti who is married, was ad* mitted minifter of Luuan in April 1 790. Mr Walt^ ftClI, or, as he is called by fome hiftorians, Sir Wdter AfiU, a Po- pifli prieft, held the office of pa{H)r of Luna^ 20 years ; bat^ afterwards embracing the do^ines of the Reformed, be was forced to abandon his charge. He was apprehended in the town of Dyfart by order of Cardinal Beaton, carried to St Andrew's, tried, condemned, and burnt, at the age of 8a, in April 1558. One of the minifters, Mr Alei^dj^ Pedie, who died in 1 7 13, bequeathed fom^ plate for the Lord's Supper in the church of * Lupan, 01^ this Angular condition, that any Epifcopal congregation within feven miles of Lunan requiring them (hpuld have the ufe of them for that purpoie. There is a marble monument erected in the church to his ;nemory, for upholding which his widow bequeathed an an- fiuity of L. 4 Scotch, payable to the kirk-fclHon. The church is an old edifice, repaired in I773« The manfe and office^ were built in 1783, and ftand nearly a mile north of thQ (hurch.
Poor. — The poor in the parifli pf Lunan have been always well fupplied. They have never been numerous, which has occafioned the fun Js to be uncommonly large, ^^Gdes tl^p weekly collections, there is a caj:ital of L. 500, for the main- tenance of the poor, and other purpofes to which parifh funds are ufually applied. The number on the poor's roU lias been generally fi^om foHrtq Hx ; but, koxxx 178^ to i^pOji (I^cre were eight 1 and confequently, during that period, the
di&
difborTements of the fd&on were mtich about equal to the whoU income. I'iie dearth^ at the commencement of thit period, was certainly the caufe of the additional number \ for they are again reduced to fiX| who receive from 3 s. to 4 s. 6 d. a month, with a fmall fum annually for purchaling fuel. As no heritor, nor any perfon of fupei^ior rank, reiides in the ' pariih, and the cobgregaiion is fritall, the weekly coUe^liond^ which are only from one to two fliilliogs, would not be near. ly adequate to the wants bf the poor, were it not for the an« nml rent arifing from the accumulated ftock. The origia of this capital appears to have been legacies left long agd for the behoof of the poor.
&r^/.— David Jamefon, formerly a farmer in the parifh, left 2000 merks Scots, half of the intered of which was for the poor, and the other half was made payable to the fchooU inafter for teaching fix poor fcholars. Till lately, this was all the fchoolmafter enjoyed ; but, by decreet of the com- iniilioners of fupply, the heritors are now burdened with the payment of 200 merks Scots of yearly falary. This, with the iaiary, and ufual emoluxiients beronging to the offices bf fellion-clerk and precentOr, and fees for teaching from 30 to 40 fcholars, makes a living of abdiit L. 25 Sterling,
Mifiellamous Oi/ervationi. -^The Englifli, or that dlale£l of it peculiar to North Britain, is the only language uf'ed or known by the inhabitants of Lunan. Many places in the pa^ fifli, it is probable, owe their names to their being firuated in the neighbourhood of Rcdcadle, now a ruin, in the pariih of Inverkeillor, and formerly a royal refidence* Henee. Gourthill, where the courts of jufiice had been held ; Hawk- hill, where the King's faulconer had refided ; and Cothill, trhere'the ihepherd, i( is likely, had his habitation and cots
for
'448 ^toHJHsd AecHaA
far his flock. The names of ibxne places are evidentlj 6tn^ ktA from the Gaelic, as the name of the pariih, and Dtmtnrt- het (called alfo Drumbartnet) from Dun a lull, which is fo na^ med from being fituaied on an eminence. There is a falmoa fiihery at the mouth of the river, biit it has been Very un- produftive for feveral years paft, yielding nothing but trout; with which the river formerly abounded. Th^ aire now inuch defirofed by the fteeping of flax, large quantities of which have of late years been raifed in the difiri^ It is not Improbable but this operates alio as a callfe of the faimon having defefted the bay, where they were (bmttimes caught in great plenty. The fiflieiy is ahnexed to the htm of Lo- nan, and no particular rent fpecified for it; Befides the fi^ ted rent, tenants, in fbme inftancb, are bound to give their landlords, in the fumn^er, one draught of their carts } their fervants a day in the hay-harveft ; and their reapers a day id iiutumn. The difficulty of getting people to hire at a time when all are bufy, is the reafoh affigned for continuing to eia£t the two laft. Tenants require like fervices of their fiibtehants ; but they are always limited to a certain number of days, and fcldom exceed three or four yearly. Tenants in general complain more of being obliged to grind their com at fome particular mill, and pay high ftipulated multures, a cuftom which prevails almoft univerlally in North Britain^ than of thefe trivial fervices, which are feldom ezaftcd fo ri« goroufly as to make them diftrcffidg. The fuel commonly nfcd in fummer is turf, or broom, valued from x s. to 2 s. a cart load, of which there is plenty in the pahfli ; and, in winter, coals, 70 ftonc of which, called a boll, coft 6 s. at Arbroath, where no duty is exaAed.
NUM.
9f Auchterderran. 449
NUMBER XLVII.
PARISH OF AUCHTERDERRAN.
Bj the Rev. Mr Andrew Murrat,
Name^ Situatian^ Extent, Soil, and Surface.
THE name of the parifli, as well as many places in it. Is faid to be derived from the Gaelic. This parifh is {!• tuated in the county of Fife, prc&ytery of Kirkcaldy, and fy* nod of Fife. It is of an irregular form, about 4 miles long, and 3 broad. Jt is bounded by Auchterrool on the fouth, Abotflial on the fouth-caft, Dyfart on the caft and north, Kinglaffic and Portmcak on the north, and Ballingry on the weft. A great part, if not the whole, of the fields are upon coal. Where the ftratum connefted with the coal comes near the furfacc, the ground is barren j and, even where this is not the cafe, it is not retnarjcably fertile. It is moill througliout. Part of the foil is clay, and part black earth. The vaik'y in which this parilh lies is bounacd on the fouth and call by a ridge of ground, and on the weft by a fimilar ridge. Though the height of the ground excludes the view of the Firth of Forth, yet the higheft part of it, which can fcarccly be called a hill, is under tillage. There are many little inequ:iHties in the fields, io that they appear rather broken and disjointed. The fame is the cafe with a great part of Fife. There are fonic rocks of a Angular appearance. What ftrikes the eye Vol-. I. .3 L mo(\
45* Stati/lical Account
mod is a number of detached pillars ftanding perpendicQlar- ]y on the bale of the rock| and feparated both at the fides and behind from the general mafs. They are of a regular figure, rcfeinbling the trunk of a large tree. The rifing grounds are all green, but rather of a dulky tinge, as i the plant did not delight in its fituation.
Agt icukure^ is^c. — About a fifth of the ground in the parifli xs employed m raifing cotHi roots, &c. There » very little wheat Oats, barley, and peafe, are the common grains. Green crops of pdfatoes^ turnips, and cabbages, are introduced ; but, ex* cept potatoes, they are not iq any great quantity. The fowicg of oats is begun about the ift of March, and finiihed aboat the aoth of April. The fowing of barley is begun about die 2cth of April, and finifhed about the 20th of Maj. The harveft, in a good leafon, begins* about the ift of September, and ends about the middle of October. In a bad feafon, it continues till the beginning of November. The pafture, in- cluding fown grafs, comprehends 4*fifths of the parifli. There are 5 1 ploughs, 1 7 of which are drawn by horfes only \ and black cattle are ufed in the reft. Small's new plough Is introduced here. There is generally a cart to ere- ry ploughs and about 18 more employed in leading coal, &c They are all two-horfe carts. The beft arable ground taken through a whole farm does not exceed 20 s. an acre wbea indofed \ and the fame farm will let for as much on the fame leaie when in grafs and pafture. The poorer farms are let at S or 10 s. an acre when indofed. The rent of one- half of the fartns is from L. I o to L. 20. There are fix whofe rent at pre- fent is about L. 30 each, which, at the expiration of the olJ leafe, will let at L. ico. Only five are let at L.ioo at prcfent. The land-rent of the parifh is about L. 2000 Sterling ^r an* jium. The number of farms rather diminifhesj which is
partly
tf Aucbterderran. 45 1
partly owing to life-rents and feus* They are, in generali in- dofed ; and the ground is fo much more fuited to grafs than corn, that the moft of the remainder of the arable land will be ibon converted into grafs. The people and proprietors are fufBciently convinced of the benefits of inclofing. Inclo- iing has bani(hed (heep from the neighbourhood ; for (heep cannot be confined within the fame ioclofures as black cattle. On one large farm there are rows of hedges and drips of plant- ing throughout, which is a complete fence ; and this mode of indofing adds to the beauty of the country ; and the plantations thrive. But the cheapefl, the roofl valuable, the moft ipeedi- ly raifed, the meft lading, and moft general fence, is the Galloway dike. The ftones are either found on the Surface, or got from quarries in the neighbourhood. A field of 16 acres may be inclofed for L. 20 i and the money is gicneraliy repaid in additional rent in 4 years. Fallow is not lb ge- neral as in a more advanced ftate of hufbandry. Of lace, tho arable lands are fcarcely ever left in grafs without iowmg ar- , tificial graflcs in them. The farmers pay their rents chiefly by raifing and feeding a great number of black cattle, by which the circumjacent markets of Duniermline^ Kin^liorO| Dylart, &c. ^re fupplied. Agriculture has advanced greatly within thcfc lew years j and the face of the country begins to change rapidly^ The rife of rents has contributed to the progrefs of agriculture, by promoting additional induftry, and calling forth enertion. i he rents are all paid in money, ex- cept a few. poultry to the proprietors, and 50 bolls of grain to the mioifter. Winter provender is fcarce and dear, owing to the number of cattle ; but the farmers are beginning to provide ftacks of hay from their fown fields^ which will prove the beft remedy for the evil. Good hay, at an average, fells from 3|. d. to 4d. a ftone. The pnnlli <locs more than Tup- ply ilfelf with provifions. It exports particularly livc-ctrlei
buttef^
45 2 Sfattftkal Aeiount
butter, chccfc, and poultry. It imports rather more wbeat bread than could be made of the wheat that grows In it. It ralfes oats nearly equal to the conPumption of oat-meal. No re- markable hardfhip was fufiercd here from thefcafon of 1782, although the harvefl did not yield above 4 months proTi- fions. The late Baron Stewart Moncrieff remitted rents to his tenants. The patron of the pariOi, with a well timed be* nevolcnce, direfted the grain of the vacant ftipend to be fold at a cheap rate among the poor. The com is ground by water-mills ; but the rude cuftom of thirlage flill remains on fome edates. Landed property in Fife changes niore than in any other county in North Britain^ and the land (old of late in this neighbourhood has generally been about 35 years purcbafe. Leafes of forms are in general for 19 years*
Rcads^ — The roads hitherto made were done by ftatote-Ia- bour, but are very indifierent. The ftatute^laboor is of late partly commuted ; atkd turnpike roads are making. Cue of them is to pafs through this parifh» leaving the great road between Kirkcaldy and Cupar of Fife at the Inn called the Platftereri. It takes a weftern dh-eftion, through the parifhes of Lellie, Kingtafliei and Auchterderran, and lands the paf- fcngers on the Qnceiwferry road at the kirk of Btathe. This line of road is already in ufe in the fummer months ^ but a free cotbmanication through this inland diftrid would be highly advantageous. The general opinion of the com- mon people IS not againft turnpikes. This pahfli has hi* therto been diftinguifhed for bad roads, and is tnaccefibte on the north for 6 montrhs in tl)e year. Hence the farmers on the oppofite fide muf^ (ell their commodities at an imder rate, being (hut out from the coaft towns.
Popuhiion.^^The number of inhabitants, accordif^g to Dr Webfter's (late, is 1 194 ^ at prefcnt they are 1200.
' InhaUtcd
i/* jtuchierderrM. j| 5 j
Inhabited hotifes • • • >• 4 29I
I
Eftablifticd miniftcr
Burgher ditto . • • • • t
In 1783 the families of the eftal>li(hed church • io<
■ "■ *■ Individuals belonging to It '. - , ^^^
' ' ' Families of feccdcrs, and other fciftarics • j$$
— Individuak behnrgfng'to them* - v ^ •. yy©
Heritors, bciides feuers, (only one refides in the parifh) 12
People in their famfiiesi locluding themfelves . , » . ^22
Farmeni •"..,• i* , • • aj
Families of colliers nearly •...:•. • 31
Cottagers houfes buik- wUbin thefe i o years • ij
Houics become uninhabitabie * • . j
There is i village called Lochgclliej cont^ning 342 peo- ple.
p^^r. — There are no poor belonging to ihh parilb that are *agrant. The poor arc fupplied in their uTual refidcnces. Pride prevents our poor common people from making them* felves burdenfome to the public, which in general they never do but from necefBty. The number of poor in the monthly lift at prcfent is 22 There are about L. 600 left in legacies, &c. in the management of the fcf&on ; the in- tereft of which, with the colleAions, is applied to the fup« port of the poor, i heir fituation is mnch better than that of the poor in many of the neighbouring parifhes, i he kirk- fcffion give their fcrvices gratis^ (as every where in Scotland}^ and arc from their (ituation well qualified for pointing out the p' oper objefts of charity. . The weekly contributions for . the poor does not exceed 2 s.
Provijions'and Cabour — There is no weekly market in the pariib. Kirkcaldy is the chief market. Beef, the long
weight,
454 Sta/lfiical Account
weight, at a^ avenge, is 4 j d. a pound ; a hen i f. ; a dozei eggs 4 d. A day-labcmrer not retained geu i s. a day. When protnifed work from one peribo, at one place, throoghoot the year, he gets 1 1 d. ; but this is not general, and is thought the better bargain for the laboorer. The average prices of ar« tificers work differs according to their trade % fome get IS. 3 d. ^ fome 1 s. 6 d. fome is* 8 d. a day.
Annual eammgs oF a dfy-fabonrer, his wife^ and three children \ dedufiing four weeks earnings of the man on ac« count of holidays, bad healthy attenda&ce on funerals, &c. and cxceffive bad weather 1 and four weeks earnings of the woman, on accoonc of holidays, bad healih, and lying-in*
To 48 weeks labour of a man at i s. a day L. 14 8 • To 48 weeks labour of a woman, in ipianing, befides taking care of her houfe and chil- dren « • . . 312# To the earnings of 3 children at the age of fix, ^ feven, and eight years, nothing.
L. 18 00
Annual ezpence of a day-labourer, his wife, and three children.
By 2 pecks oat-meal a week, at 1 1 J d. per peck L. 4 ip « By 2 pecks barley or pcafe-mcal a week, at
7jd. apcck . . . 350
By 6 bolls potatoes, at 5 s. a boll ^ , x 10 0
By barley for k. .1, at 3 lb. a week . , o 16 3
By a kail- yard, and a wretched houfe . . o 13 e
$f Aucbterderran 455
By milk, at 4 d. a week • , L. o 1 7 4
By fait, cheefe, and butter « • • •0126
By foap for wafliing clothes • , 026
By coals in a year, with carriage . . . ~ i o o
By fliocs to the whole family • . . x o o
By body-clothes to the man • • , i 10 o By ditto to the woman and children • • 150
By worfted thread for mendings • . .070
L. i^ 18 3
The preceding ftatement is favourable for earnings, from the number of children, which is rather imall ^ and particu- larly on account of the ages of the children, a^ at that pe- riod of their lives it is fuppofed in the calc: Jation that the woman has it in her power to work half work at fpinning, and^ yet take care of herhoufe and children. The day-- labourer of this diftriA, and bis family, are more decently clothed than a family of the fame defcription in England, and tiicre- fore it is fomewhat more particularly (laced than in the 1 rint- cd ExtraA accompanying the Queries, The fuel is alfo higher charged. They are obliged to ufe coals, a much finer fuel than that mentioned in the ExtraA, and, at the lowed, it amounts to the cxpence above mentioned j but it ferves them for light, as well as heat, in the winter feafon. The greatei't e- 'vils of their iituation arife from the lownefs of their diet, and the wretchednefs of their lodging, which is cold, dark, and dirty ; expoiing them to a numerous clafs of diicaics incident to fuch a condition. The meagre food of the labouring man, too, is unequal to oppofe the effedls of incciTant hard labour upon his conftltution, and, by this n cans, hi< frame is often worn down before the time of Nature's appointment.
That
45^ Statiflleal Jccwni
That people continitc to enter volantarHy opan (uch a Iwrd fitiiation, (hows how far the union of the fcxes, and the love of independence, are principles of huii an natun: ; and, from fuch caufes, this fitu^tion is not thought, by the people them- felves^ to be wretched, nor without fome (hare of connfon. Within thefe laft twelve years, the wages of a man have rxfea from 8d. to I s. without a proportional rife upon his ex- pence. When this elafs of people have got fuch additiooal wages as will enable them to have better lodgmg^ and to hare that quantity of animal and other foods, which their labour and the climate require, they will then have nearly their Iharc of human enjoyment About the year 175 J, the yearly wages of a doroeftic man fervant was L. 28 Scots, of a wo- man fervnnt L. 16 Scots. The wages of fervants, whea maintained by the employer, in different branches of huf- bandry, is now L. 3 Sterling a year for a woman, and L 6 a year for a man 1 he wa^es of domeftic fervants is the fame. Work, people are rather fcircc, owing to the drain of wars, and the increafing induiiry of the country.
General Chnracler of the People. — The inhabitants arc very regular in tlicir attendance on public wor(hip Formerly they were fond of long church ferviccs, and confidcred it as a point of duty to continue long ^n rtligious exercifes. Perhaps the lerviccs, though fliortcr than before, are ftill too long for aniwcring the ends of devotion and (pintual edification. 'I he people arc not illiterate. In common with the reft of Scotland, the vulgar arc, for their fi^ation, literate, perhaps, beyond all other nations. Puritanic and abftrufe divinity come in for a fufficient iliare in their little ftock of books \ and it is per- haps peculiar to them, as a people, that they endeavour to farm opinions, by re.uling, as well as by frequent converfa- tion, on fomc very mctaphyfical points connefled with reli- gion,
t ^ Akcbtenhrr/tp. ^^
ly and on the deeper do£Mnes of Chrlfthuiitf. Thef likewife read, occaiionally, a Tariety of other books uncoa- neAod with fuch fubjeiEts. The parochiBl fchools are by no means fuppUed with fuch enlightened teachers as thofe that ^vereibraierly infiranienial ia diffufing this knowledge. No one ef good edncaticm alid ability now accepts of this reditu ced |uttaaee» where the fitnation is liot fityourabk for procu* ring lucradve fcholars : And the villi^e teacher^ brought in fay the fobTcription of needy people^ is a ftill more nnqnali* fied perfon. In foch caies» the people do not propofe feefe^ iog out the beft» hnt the ohei^ft. The confeqnence will be* that the poorer ^Kftrlfb of the country, and the poor clafles of the people, mnft become more ignorant. Although the pa* rifli confifls wholly of the poorer ranks of fociety, newfp^pers are very generally read and attended to t The defire for them increafesf and the teadiag of them feems to be attended with advantage. With regard to the inteUeOoal character of the pe^le : They are deficient in tmiigiBatioB, viyacityi humoort &C. ; their apprehenfion and judgment are very good, and they make a decent figure in the common profeffions of life. With refpeft to their moral and religious charaAer, they have all a profeflion of rdigbn} but, in the pomts where their fituation more iomsediately leads to temptation^ they too firequently and even habitually contradift their profeffioiu Their civil charaAer is excellent: They feem in feme di^gree capable of refleCHng on the advantages of government i and they obey it peaceatdy* and on prin- ciple. They could, however, be eafily ftirred up to fe« dition in matters of religion. There is one Burgher meet^ ing in this parilh. The rdi^pus toleration granted feeme to anfwer, in this diftriAy the full ends of good govern^ meat and public utility : It couUl hardly ftand on a bet« ter footing. Secefliaa now begins to dimmiihi and the VajLtL 3 M btttemels
45^^ St^HjUat AewM
bittemeTs of contendiog TcAs is gteaOf fubfidiog : Ttig psitlf proceeds from the novelty bdog over; partly from the great variety of idfts which hate taken place; and pardyy k is hoped} froa more enlightened views of troe relig^oD. At to holidays for recreation or mm7-making, the peoplo have only one in the year» called Handfd^Monday ; and even the manner in which this is employed (hews the fober minded- neft of the people. Inftead of meeting m large afiembliesliBr diverCons^ each finnily coUeAs its own kindred froaa the dS£» ferent paru of the diftria» provkles a feaft, and fpeods the time in eating, drinking, and converikioii. The halidayi» befides Sabbaths, for rebgioos fervices^ in the EftaMiflimmr, are three days m the yeari among the Seeeders fix. The people have fcarcely any fports after they are grown np« Among the infiiute advantages of the Refermatioiiy this feems to have been one dUadvantage attendmg it, that, owing tti the gloomy rigour of feme of the leadii^ sAnrs, aurth, fport, and cbearftdoeTs,* vrere decried among a people aheady by nature rather phlegmatic. Shice that, mirth and vice have, in their apprehenfion, been confounded together. Some of the iefbries pnnifli attendance 00 penny weddings, and public dancing, with a reproof from the pulpit, in Ae pre- fence of the congregation: So that the people muft cJcher dance by themfdves, or let it alone. This cenfate, hi feve^ ral congregations, is frlling into difnfe. There are a km per- ions, caUed tinhrs and bwum^ half*refident, and ludf4tine- rant, who are feared and fuTpeCked by the community. Two of them were banilhed within thefe fix years. Strangers complain of the pronunciation in this dXMft being drawling, and that it imprefles them with a belief that the perfen fpeak* faig is feur and ill tempered. The inhabitants are improving fat their mode of living and drefs. Intemperance from (pirt* tons liquors is by no means firequent among them % but, un*
luckily,
^ Aucbterderrm. 459
ImiaXj^ the ufe of whiflcy is increafing, and that oF beer di- miniihing. The Mue bonnet, a national badge, is diiappear* ing rapidly. The prevalent colour of the mens drefi is bine.
ChtrA^ SdMf. C9V.— For feven years paft the ftipend has, at an average, been L. lo*, inclndiag the glebe, which is Utfge, befide the houfe and garden. Child BdfweU, Efqi of Balmoto, ii patron. A new manfe was bulk in 1784, and a new church in 1 789. The income of the fchoolmafter may be aboat L. 10, independent of the fcholafs fees, which are from is. 3 d« to 2 s. a quarter ; the number of icholars fiom 5* to 6o. There are, befides, two private fehools: The fcholars at both| taken together, may amount to 8o.
MiJciUaniMU Obfervathns^^^Thc air is moid, but not un-
hedthy : Fogs are not frequent, nor of neariy b long conti*
nuance as in the fbuthem parts of the iiland. There is a mi*
neral well at the bottom of the rocks formerly mentioned^
recorded in Camden's Britannia, and Gordon's Ilinerarium^
for iu medicinal qualities 1 but it has not been reforted to for
fbme time paft. The lake called Lochgellie is 3 miles in diw
cumference } that called Camilh about 2 miles. There is a com*
«\on free-ftone quarry for houfe^buildiog, &c. There is peat
\a the parifli, but it is little ufed for foeh Coal is to be dug
in every comer ci the pariih, and fcarcely exceeds a farthing a
ftone at the pit mouth. There is likewiie great abundance of
Itmc-ftone, which, when burnt and flaked, fells at 7d. a boll.
fhe ufe of it in agriculture is increafing 1 but not fo much here
^s in other places where the price is perhaps double or triplew
^uduftry is increafing \ and there are very convenient fituations
n which manufaAures might be eftabliihed. Several wea^
^n living at Lochgellie, and neighbourhood, connect them^
rives irith the manufiiAwes of Kriccaldy. There is a thrl«
ving
400 Stai^lkal Aumd
ving bleackfidd hoe. The inhabkuits hftve oo purtWnfliwt cither for the army or the na^jr; but noic of them go to the latter. They enjojr, in a toknble <^SMe, ifce tomfoeta and advantages of fociety. The mufic here is betwecii the ^licl; fprightly sMiiic of the nortby and 4ie 99m plaiiluve ikuific of the Couth. A pecuVac fournefii of afpaft it obfiBrvcd ,10 tjie people here» and a feemiog uttwillingoefii to-ciOfiveife wiili» or ihew expreflioiu of good.will u> ftrange^
4
There are 6 alehoofeS) or vd»^ ehie&y.ioppovtcd l|f tte tryfies at Lochgellie» L e. fairs or mackecs where no aaftoiaa ate cxa6bed on the cooMBodities ibid; the ehief of wlMch ia black cattle. The. number of liOcbgetHe tryftea is 5 in the year.
A cottier, earns, orcan earn, aboi|t los. a «e^. Thocoat- works jiift now working fil thisparifli draw Ibrcoals L. 1 700 a year \ L. 500 of which is fi>r coal exported, the reft for the confumptioh of the neighbourhood. IVivate families here never brew their own beer ; but private bakjng is ftiU in «(& There are but 1 puUic bake-houles in the parifli.
The advantages and diiadvanUges of empfojing ooinarried hired ferrants^ or married cottagers, are, to the iounodUtc employers, pretty nearly balanced : A mixture of each, wliere the farm is large, is nioft convenient, l^he preference be- ginning to be fhewp for married cottagers is far more bcvic ficial in its coniequences. The beft fervants for huftaocky are raifed from thcfe cottagers families \ otharwiie they bc« come fcarce, dear, and unlkilfuL
Thi^ neiighbQiyhaod and cpui|ty were long diftingiafhe^ ibJs.u^e^Qm ifgeons and well fiocked pig^con^houfes^ but
whlchji
^Birhicfa» of htCf have been Ming off. It Jias been doubted ivhether our law aulhorifing pigeon-houies a$ noty infome <l^reey contrary to natural equil^; as it does not leem rea^ IbnaUe that aojone ibbttld>keip4t houio Idrnilhed with a multitude of animals, over which he has no goyemmenty and ixrhich prey^ on his* noig^bouifs cpra as. freely. ;^ on his own, while he alone has die profit. It has aUo beoi doobtedt ifrhether, on the whole, jugeons are not detrimental to the public, by devoming more com than- the ph>fit of them is iirorth ; it having been fiated as a iaA, that a pigeon-holife of 'an ordinary fize, modewudy Aiihod^ will eonfkme 200 quar« ters of feed in a year.
As a]i.inllance of remarkable induftry, it may be mention* ed, that a young man of this p^fh went Into the north m £nglan4 as a labc^rei^^ and, laid lij,'out of his earnings,' m Cop courfe ot fomewhat more than 20 years, L» 400. Sterling. Hp then returned to his ^ativc parifli, purcbafed and fumilHed a. pretty exteniive feu,, upon which he has lived with his tad^y '
^^7^;, . , ,...., r . ■ .: oTtf
" ' - " ■ " ■ •• U\Jii^
' * . ' • . • - ' - •• ' f. • ' • / .' * 'I
♦ ' • ■ . • ' * ; . ( !
• • V -.1.': ■ . .-. '. . -'t
"jft.- Stt^l^tM Jtttma
NUMBS.Jt SLVOL
fARlSH OF KINLOSS.
Bj the Rfv. Mr Johm Hotbs.
■t . >4 .^
cr •,:;. I"" J I ■ "pw
THE'antieht and modern name of tliis parilh is Kinlofi, derived from aoia, a Hea(I,.and Lochs L e. tke Head of the Loch} Kinlofs being 'fituated on the head of the Bay olFindhorn. This prifii iiin the (hire of Elgin, and Forres ^ ip the preibytcry of Forres, and fjnod of Mora;. It is of a fqYiare formi being between three and fonr miles long and broad. It is bounded on the eaft by the pari(h of Alves \ on the fouth and fouth-weft by Raffbrd and Forres ; and on the north by the Moray Firth. It is a very flat level country. X|uC (j^l js various ; in fome places light and landy \ in othcn a rich and deep clay, mofi, and loam, make up a confiderable part of the foil ; and all of it, vhen well managed, produces good crops of grain of every kind. This parilh, being flat, is but poorly fupplied with good water \ and moft of the fprmgs tafte of minerals. The fhore is flat and fandy. The fifli caught here are moftly haddocks and whictings, and, in the feafon, cod, ikate, and ling, which are all fold in the cpuntry, and at Forres, at about i d« or i| d, a pound.
COitah^ ant DtJhtf^m.-'Jl^ itittpi drf/ stifl lieal.
tby. The liioft ^ prevalent diftempers are lautaiiddm (UfittUft, fcnrvfy and rhetti&atifin )• dwibg, ^perhapf, tor hafd<*Uibodr, the (harpneis of the air^ a fpaire or fifii. diet; and mitt of
ckanliiieft. * * .. , . ,i • -j /.••
Populatwn.'^'tht amonnt of the inhabitants of this parifll is 234 families, which contain 1031 perfons, being nearly 4^ to each family. There are 4 heritors, 40 farmers, 56 fifher- 0ieQ and failors, 9 (hoemakers, 6 weavers, 6 carpenters and Wrights, 2 uylors, 2 fmiths, 2 millers, 2 mafons, 2 coopers^ X merchant, i brewer, i thread manufsi^hurer, today labour* ers, and 6 traveling beggars. Dr Webfter's flate of the in* habitants is i ipf • The annual average of births from 1700 to 1720, is 25 males and 21 females 1 from the beginning of the year 1779 to the beginning of 1789, is 29. la this laft period were born 147 males, and 145 females* The decreaie of population is owing to the fpirit of travelingi and the engroffing of farms.
CburcA and StipenJ^^-^Tbt manfe was built in 175 1 $ the church in 1765. The value of the living is uncertain} a procefs of augmentation having been carried on fince the year 1781. The patrons are Lord Moray and Miis Brodie of Lethen.
Mifcellariious Oi/ervat$ons.'~-Thtre are no rivers in this ps*' rifh but the Findhorn, which runs fouth and wefl, and £ilb into the Moray Firth at the town of Findhorn. This river abounds with falmon, which, in the fpring, and beginning of • fummer, are boiled at Fmdhom, and Icitted and fent to the London marlcet* Frefh falmon is fold here at 4 d. a poundv
Tbi
^\ ,7iaeoD^lv(ieiirindMptflflbJtFiadlnii^ ^lllitii continnallf changpt^ -and prevcDts fliipi of gpnt bor- ,^kil from «ilcriog» to that tlie ttade it earned oo m find Jpianciliiiit ^vcflfiby or floops • Ihit iiu|iorts aio merclMBt goodly ibgary inne, porter^ bark, &c. Tbe ti^ports, oats and hmieft fibnoDs Uaen jam, &c.
NUM.
9f OatbUm. 46 f
NUMBER XUX.
PARISH OF OATHLAW.
Sj the Rev. Mr Thomas Raiser*
Sitaationf Extent^ Iste*
TH E antient name of this parifh feems to have been FinhaTen. It is fitaate^ in the county of Angus, prcA hjitrf of Forfar, and i^nod of Angus azid Mearos* Ic is 5 miles long, and about 2 broad. It is bounded by the pariih of Tannadie on the north i Aberlemno and Refcobie on the fouth ; Carraldftooc on the eaft^ and Kirriemuir on t)ie weft* The general appearance of the country is flat. The air is moift.
ffi///.— The hill of Finhaven lies on the fouth fide of th« parifti, in a diredlion from caft to weft, ior the fpace of 10 miles. On the top of this hill are the remains of an old caftle : The foundation of the. whole of it is yet vifible. Its dimen* fioQS are 137 yards in length, and 37 in breadth, nearly in the form of a parallelogram. The foundation feems to have been built without mortar. The ruins difcover fomething like vi« triable ftooes, and plainly appear to have undergone the aAion of fire U*is faid that the family of Finhaven were wont to retire to this caftle in times of danger* There are evident marks of. a well on the vcft end of it. The height of the
Vol. I. 3 N bill
466 Statijlicdl Jccmint
hill is about 500 yards from the level of the countiy. At the foot of it| immediately fouth of the caftle, there is an af>- pearance of a crater of a volcano, and all around fomeihing that refeinbles lava.
jRiVrj.— The river Elk tfuns through the pariih j and» It is thought, might cafily be made navigable from the Kirk- town of Tannadice to Montrofe, about 1 2 miles diftant. la its Jprefent ftate, it runs in a ferpentine dire£lidn through a very fertile country. Formerly it abounded with falmon ; but, on account of the number of crubs, there are now few or none. The rivulet called Lemno has lately been turned into a canal, which runs the whole length of the parilh, firom eaft to weft, and bifeAs it. It inight eafily be made navigable for fmall boats. It joins the river £ik below the old caftle •f Finhaven.
Pepu/athn.^^The number of inhabitants In this parifh b believed to have been nearly the fame <for feveral years paft.
Souls • • . . • 430
Males • • • • . 217
Females ' • ' • • • 213
Annual average of births • . » 10
I ■ of deaths • • • 4
■ ■ of marriages . • 3
Perfons under 10 years of age • • 1 10
Between 10 and 20. • ... 97
Between 20 and jo . . • • 160
Between 50 and 70 . • • • 50
Above 70 -^ . . . • « 13
Heritors (node of them reiide) • • 6
Farmers ^ * • 1 * * * 34
Families
^ Oatblaw^
467
Families confiding of
I perfon 2
3 4
5
6
7 8
9
10
II
13
IS
«7 18
19
21
^3 28
33
44
Land rent of the pariih about L. 1178 Sterlings Ploughs , • .
Carts about • • • .
X
I 4 3 3 3 t
6 I
I a
3
I 2 I I I I I I I
m
34 70
Pdor.-'The number of the poor of this parifli is^ at an ave- rage, two. The annual aoiount of the contributions for their relief is about L. 15 : 16 : 8 Sterling. The number relieved at prefent is from two to four. The elders of the kirk* feffion, in the different parts of the parifli, give information concerning the ftate of the poor. In 1782, the kirk-feOion purchafed a fmall quantify of com, made it into meal, and divided it among poor families.
Price
468 StMiiJlical AcuuHt
Price tf Labour and Prowfians, — \hc increafe of lafaomtn wages i:; hulbandxy^ iiiice the year 1 740, has been Tcry great. For ao years ^fter that period, their wages were from L. a Co L. 3 a year; at prcfent they are firoai L^j to I^ 10 a y«ar, and maintained^ as former ly, in the £imily. Women lervar.rs wages, during the period abready mentioned, were L. I : ip : o ;. they. are npw from L. 3 to It. 4. . Day labour- ers, at the fame period j got 2^ d« 9 at prcfent they get from 8d. to jod. exclufive of viAuals. Harveft wages for the feafon arc from L. 1 to L. i : 10 : o; by the day i s. and victuals. Oatmeal is the principal food of. the Ubounng peo- pie. The price of it, from 1740 to 1760^ was ^boat 8 s, and 10 s. 6 d« a boll ; at pre&uit, and for fome years paft, ic has been from i2s.to 14 s. The general mode of living was much the fame at both periods. Butter is from 6 d. to yd. a pound. Cheefe from 54. to 6 s. a ftone*
Stipeftd.-^Thc money, ftipend is L. 500 Scots } and theie are 2 cbalders of vidtu4. The manfe, offices, and garden^ are dilitnatcd at L. 6 Sterlmg, and the glebe at L. 4. Xhe patron of the pari.!) is Lord Aboyne.
Antiquities — There is a veftige of a camp, fuppofed to be Roman. Its dunenfions are laoo yards in length, and 600 in breadth. There are 2 tumuli in it, which have never been opened. According to tradition, it was part of a gmt fo- reft, called the Foreft of Claton, which extended from Fin- haven to Kirriemuiri about the difiance of 0 miles. The iltc of the camp is npw a well cultivated farm, called Battle*dykes. The names given to the other farm houfes on the foreil are idefcriptive of its former fituationj iuch .^ Birkeitbufli, Drakc^ niirej Forreftcr-Seat, Ktiig's-bcat| Wolf-Law^ &c.
NUM-
$J Oamrie. jfi^
NUMBER L.
PARISH OF GAMRIE.
Bj tht Rtv. Mr Wilsoh.
Origin of the Name. TT has long been a general report, and the preTailing tra^ -*- dition in this country, that, fome time before the year 1004, in which the church of Gamrie is faid to have been built, (and there is at this day the date 1004 on the f^eeple), that the Thane of Buchan purfued the Danes to the precipice or brow of the hill above the church, and there defeated them with great daughter* Several of their &ulls (moft likely of their chiefs who had fallen in battle) were built into the church wall, where they remain entire : From hence it came to be called by (bme the Kirk of Sculls. In the Gaelic lan- guage, the word Kemn^ horn which, probably, Gamrie is de- rived, fignifies running Jlep. or running leap. And this deri- vation feems a natural one ; becaufe, from the (ituation of the hill, which is one of the highefV on this part of the coaft^ and very fteep on one fide, it muft have been a running ikir* mllh, and very fatal to the vanquifhed In fome old regifl ters, the name of the parifli is written Ghaemrie. On the faid eminence, above the kirk of Gamrie, at the eaft end of one of the moft level and extenfive plains in Buchan, are a number of veftiges of encampments, which at this day are called by the name of bloody poU, or bloody pits.
Situation^
470 Stattjtical Account
Situation, Extent^ Isfc, — ilie church and manle of Gtmnt lare built in a very extraordinary and romantic fituation, on m floping piece of ground in the middle of a bill, and not « mile from the town and harbour of Gard<;nitown. By tvo headlands, 'called Gamrie and Froup bead, which projefta confiderable way into the fea, a beautiful bay is formed, where there is fine anchoring ground, and vefiels can ride in fafcty. At high water, a perfon could fling a ftone into the lea £rwa. the church } and looking out of it, it has the appearance, to a fira^nger, as if the fea waihed its foundations- The church is built, after the manner of fome very old edifices, with un« flacked lime, and with very thick wails; and, although it has already (lood upwards of 7C0 years, it may, if the roof be kept in proper repair, laft for hundreds of years to come. The north fide of Ganirie parilh is bounded by that part of the German Ocean called the Moray Firth ; on the caft by the parifh of Aberdour \ on the iouth by the parifhcs <tf Monwhiter and King Edward \ and on the weft by the rircr Dovern, which feparates the pariih of Ganurie from Banff. This pariih iiretchcs 9^ miles along the fea^coaft, which is a Tcry bold one It is almofl a continued chain of ftupeodooi rocks, in many places perpendicular, and 200 yards above the fca It is between 3 and 4 miles broad. Gamrie panfii lies in the county of Banff, prcfbytcry of Turriff, and iynod of Aberdeen. The foil, in many places, is very fertile, and in othera as barren ; and, though much has been done of late years, there \i ftill great fcope for improTcment. The hilly ground is in general covered with heath, and in foipe places with a coarfe kind of grafs, on which fheep and young cattle are fed. Sheep, indeed, are very much baniihed from the parifli. When Mr Wilfon firft came to the parifh, there was fcarccly a farmer who had not a flock ; but now there arc only two or three that have any at all. This is in a great
meafiire
ef Gamrit. 471
vneafurc owing to the introduilion of fowa grafs, and the dif« ficulty there is in winter herding, unleis the praAice was ge- 9traL
Sea Coafiy and Fijberies. — On this coaft a variety of different kimU of fi(h are caught, viz. ling/ cod, haduocks, whitings, turt>ot« Ikate, &c. with which this country uied to be re- markably well iiipplied, and a conliderable quantity of theoi, when dried, were carried to the Firth of Forth, and fold there. From the beft information, it appears that the tiihermen in this pariih have ibmetimes received for their fait ti(h L. 25a annually. Of late years, the fiOiing has been (o reaiarkably poor, (to what cauie it is perhaps difficult to fay, but moft likely one principal reafon is, the immenie quantities of fca- dogs, a kind of (hark, with wh)ch this coaft has been in- fcfted), that there has hardly been fiOi fufficient to ibpply the markets at home. Of conlequence, it is to be fuppoied they have rifen much in value. Long after the preftnt mini& ter was fettled in the pariih, he could have purchafcd haddocks at one penny and three half-pence a dozen, which now coft a fbilling to eighteen pence % and in proportion for other kinds of fifli, and every other article of food. On this coaft, great (^pianttties of lea weed, called ware, are thrown up on the jhore, which the farmers lay on the ground, and find very profitable in raifing crops ot barley. In this panOi, it is laid on with a very (paring hand, owing to the fter pnefs of tli^ coaft, and the bad accefs to the fliore. Confiderable quan« titles alio of this fea-weed are cut ofif from the rocks, for the purpofe ot making kelp. At an average, about 3^ tons are made annually, which iell from L., 3 to L. 5 a ton. On the river Dovern, which feparates the pa- riihes of Banff and Gamrie, is an exceeding good fal« mon fiihery, the property of Lord Fife, which lets fot
L. xoo«
47* StaHfiical Auwnt
L I coo per annum. The laimon arc all cored in the tovn of MacduflPl The pickled fifli are all feai to the LoDdoa market, and what are falted are generally exported to France and Spain.
Mineral Springs^ ^uarrits^ i^c.-^Uear the iea-coaft, ni in the neighbourhood of Macduff, is ^ prettj good auncnt Spring, called the Well of Farlair, which hat been olctul ia gravellilh complaints. Of late years it has come into con& der;ible repute, and a nomber of people relbrt to it annoallf. In this pari(h, upon the eftate of Melrofe, now the property of Lord Fife, is a very good flate- quarry. The quantity aiw Dually made has been various^ depending on the demaikU and , the number of hands employed. The flates are of a good quultty, of a beautiful bine colour, not inferior to the Lafdale llare, only thicker, larger, and make a heavier roof. Qoar* ricrs are commonly paid (7 the piece, which is certainly the htd way for themfelves and their employers. Common day* bbourers ufoally receive from 7 d. to 9 d. a day in winter^ and from 9 d. to 1 s. in fummer.
Natural Curkfities — ^Near the eaft end of the pariih, and not far from the houfe of Troup, are three great natorml curtofi* tics. 1. A perpendicular rock of very great extent, full of flielves, and poflefled by thoufands of birds called Kitty- weaks. Thefe arrive in the beginning of fpring, and leave it again towards the end of Auguft, afrer they have brought forth their young. So i>e people are fond of eating the young Kitty's ; but the (hooting of them is a favourite diverfit)n e- very year. The feaion for this is commonly the lafl week of July. Whither thefe birds go in winter is not known \ mod probably it b to fome placr upon the coaft of Norway* sdly, A cave, or rather deoj about 50 feet deep, tfo long»
and
Md 40 broad, from which there is a flibtcrraneous pal&ge to the Tea, about 80 yards fong, through which the waves arc driven with great violence iti a northerly ftorm, and occafiba a fmoke to afccnd from the den* Hence it has got the name of Hctfs Liimb. i. e. Hdl's Chimney. 3* Anothef fubter- raneous paflagc, through a pcninfula of about 150 yards long fit)m fea to Tea, through which 1 man can with difficulty creep. At the north end of this narrow paffage is a cave a- hoocao feet high, 30 broad, and 150 long, containing not Ids than 90,000 cabii feet. The whole is fupported by im- mcnfe columns of rock, is exceedingly grand, and has a won- dcrfiilly fine effeft, after a perfon has crept through the nar- tow paffage. This place has got the name of the Needle's Eye. There are in the parifli fcveral tumUli. Not many years ago, one of them, in the neighbourhood of Macduff, was opened ; and there was found in it an urn> containing a coofideraUe number of fmall human bones.
PoMf/^ifift— The population of the parifli is nearly double fince the year 173a. At the above period the pariih con- tained 1600 fouls, and now nearly 3000. About the years 1704 and 1705, it appears by the Regiflcrs that the number of births annually, at an average, were then 45 j and, for fe« vcral years paft, they have not been under 6t. The number of deaths cannot be afcertained fo far back* About 30 years ago they Were frt>m 10 to x a, tad for 7 years paft nearly ao annually. About 30 years ago there were from la to 14 marriages annually, and, for 7 years paft, not lefs than afi*
In this pariih, many inftances of longevity might be iionedk It is only a few years (ince a fiflierman in Macduff died at the «ge of 1 09 $ and^there are fiving at ptdeitt fevei^ jierfoii0 9oyeanQhi,aBAii|m|rds^ tfrWJIftnliliiM»99tk - Vai.L 3 O J^i
474 Statyiical Atcmmt
year ; and laftjHJtamn, at the conduCon of the lurvcft, the age of iiim, and the two (ervants that affifted ia taking in hs crop, amounted in all to %yi ; and it is worthy rennarkiag that one of thefe has been his fervant 50 years. Mr WiUba was the firft that introduced tvmips and potatoes into the ps- rifh. He had a few of them in Us garden, which the peo- ple in coining to the church ufed to look at as a great cini»> ijty \ and it was thought, at that time, that none but a g»- dener could raife them. It was long before the method of hoeing came to be thought o£ Being fown thick, and haiK^ .weeded, they came to no fize. Another Angularity dciares noticei viz* that, when he came to Gamrie, there was not a watch in church except the laird's and the minifter^s.
Church. — ^The minifter'is living is, commuiubus mnnU^ L. io» Sterling \ the crown patron. The prefent incumbent was fet- tled in the year I732, He has been a widower for ten yean paft \ has had 14 children ; ten of whom (five ions and fi?t <iaughters} he has lived to ice well fettled in the workL
Poor. — In (itch a popular parifh, it is to be fuppojcd there will be feveral poor, and accordingly between 50 and 60 re- ceive charity out of the pariih funds ; and of thefe t|ie year 1782 added feveral to the lift. The weekly colledbonat Gamrie and Macduff* is at an average 14 s. L. 450^ which is at intereft, belongs to the poor of this parifli,
Rifital. — ^The valued rent of the pariOi is L. 5489 : 6 : 9 Scots. The prefent real rent, exclufive of fiflieries, is nearly L. i<S8o Sterling.
Tawfu^ FiUagtff and MifcManeout Obferoatmtts.^^-^Tbz prin* flpal cauib of the increafc of popidation are, the number o£
fiihuig
of Gamrse., 475
fifhing towns on the coaft, the breaking of large £urms into iboaller ones, the encouragement giTcn by the heritors to im- prove wafte ground, and their endeavouring to introduce a better nKxle of culture. The principal town in the parifli is Macduff, the propertT* of Lord Fife. In 1 732 there were only a few fiihermen's houfes in Macduff, but now there are fe- deral well laid out ftreets, and looo fouls in the town. The harbour, on which his Lordfhlp has already laid out up- wards of L. 50009 will, when finifhed, be one of the beft in the Moray Firth. There are ten veffels from 60 to 120 tons burden, and 6 fiihing boats, belonging to Macduff. Three of them are in the London trade, two in the eaft country trade, and the others trade moft commonly to the Firth of Forth.
Since the great incrcafe of population in this part of the parifh, his Lordfhip has erefled a Chapel of Eafe in Macdufi^ for the accommodation of the inhabitants, who are nearly fix miles from their parilh church, and gives a falary to a quali- fied clergyman to preach s^nd difpenfe the ordinances of reli- gion among them.
On the eaft end of this pariOi, there are very near to one another two other fmall towns, Gardenfton and Cro^ vie, both the property of Lord Gardenfton, and not far from his houfe at Troup. The town of Gardenfton contains nearly 300 fouls, and Crovic 100. In thcfc two places arc the fame number of vcilels and fi(hing*boats as in Macduff, only the vcffcls are of a fmaller fize. Lords Fife and Gar- denfton are the only heritors. Lord Fife does not reGde in the pari(h, but one of his principal feats (Duff-houfe) is very near it, being only about an £ngli(h mile from Macduff. His Lordfhip has paid the greateft attention to the improvement of his (dates, and the good of the country, by encouraging,
Inclofing,
47^ Sltafi/9ical jfccamt
indofing, Unding his tenants to have yearlj a certaiii ipiaiw tity of their ground in tnrnipi fo much in fallow^ aod fo much laid down in grafs feeds. Thefe regidadons vcre highly proper and neceflfary fome years ago» becaufe peopk are led in chains by habit ; and it is by flow degrees^ and well d^efted {rfans^ they are made to depart from eftabUfiieJ cnftoms : But, now that the propriety of thefe regolatjoos are feen, it would be difficult to make the farmers have fqch fmall quantities of turnip, &c. as it was occefTary at firfk to refirid): them to. Lord Fife has alfo conwrted the whole cufloms and fervices (ufuaUy called bonnage) at a mode* rate rate. This is of the utmoft importance to the te* mnts.' Not many years ago, many of them paid nearly one- half of their rent in fowls, eggs, ilieep, &c. delivered in kind, and the labour of themfelves, their fervants, horfes, 114 feed* time and harvefl, carriage of peats, and many other works in tlie diHerent feafons throughout the year, when called for | by which means they were ofien obliged to plough, dung, and harrow their landlord's ground, and lofe the feafon for their own* Planting is a mode of improTcment in which do per- fon in this country has been more fucccfsful than the Earl of Fife. His Lordfhip has planted not lefs than from 7000 to 8000 acres on his different eftates, which he continues yearly to increafe ; and at this moment the whole is in a very thriving flate. An account pf the various kinds of trees, and the method taken to rear them, will be fech in Young's An- nals of Agriculture, and the Minutes of the Society of Arts ana Commerce. The moft confiderable plantation in this pa* irifh is what is called the Tore of Troup. There are upwards pf 600 acres planted with trees of varipus kinds, in a thriving ftate. Thefe i^ere reared chiefly by the direction of the late ]^fr Garden of Troup, and begun by his grandfather. Mr Gardeuj who is now fucceeded bj his broths Lord Garden-
rfGamrie. 477
Aoa, wa$ updBimoufiy dcAed inembar of parUament for the coomy of Abcfdeen, during three fucceeding ieffioat of paiv ItasDcot ; be conftantly refided at Troup» io this pari(h» excep- ting the clme he attended parllaoientary bufiaefa^ and paid great attention to the iaprovement of his eftate, and the good of his coontrj. He never gave a (horter leaTe than for a life I and to feveral of his tenants he gave very long leale»^ viz. a life, two nineteen years, and a life. He was not like many others, who, when they faw a tenant thriving, thought he had too good a bargain, and would demand a very high rent at the next letting. It was his joy to (ee his tenants car- rying on their improvements, and profpering by their honeft induftry. Nor, when any of his leafes fell vacant, was it ever known that he did not prefer the tenant's own {on, and con* tinue him in the poflcffion, if he was difpofed to follow the fame occupation with his father* And it may be fafely faid, that, owing to the encouragement given by Lord Fife and Mr Garden, there are few tenants in the north of Scotland more thriving than in the pari(h of Gamrie. In the year 17829 when many others were not able to pay their rents, fcardty was not much felt except bj the pooreft clals*
The language fpoken in this parifli is the Scottifli, with aa accent peculiar to the north country. There is no Erfe.
The fuel ufed in the parifli is partly coals and partly peats. The latter has of late years become very fcarce ; and coab are every day much more commonly ufed 1 which, owbg to a partial and oppreflive tax, coft very dear, and is a very great hindrance to improvement in this part of the country. It is certainly^ very unfair, and highly abfurd, that this ntceCm iary article, which at any rate muft be confiderably higher ii| price to confumen in ibc Nortbi from the expence of car- riage.
47^ StalijUcal Auwnt
riage, than it is to thofe on the other fide of the Redhead, fliottld alfo be loaded with a tax from which the ionthem in- habitants are exempted : And it b to be hoped the wildomand joftice of the legiflature will foon provide a remedj, either bf a total repeal, or by malcing the tax payable at the pit, which wonld thereby become geoend, and be moch Idb poitial]^ fek.
NUM.
^0^^ 419
NUMBER LL PARISH OF GASK. By the Rev. Mr David Keut^
Name^ Situation j CsV.
GASK, the name which the pari(h has had for time nn« memorial, is Gaelic, and figoifies, it is laid, in that language, a Slope. As the parifli is fituated on ariiing groundf the name is defcriptive of its fituation. Gafk is in the coun- ty of Perth, preibytery of Auchterarder, and fynod of Perth and Stirling ; is nearly a fqoare, each fide of which is fome* what tnore than two EngHfli miles. The ground dopes on each fide of the Roman cauleway, which runs through the middle of the jpariQi upon the bigbeft ground ; the fovth Hope is a pkafant fertile banic, laid out into cultivated fields, and bounded by the river Earn, which bounds the pariih oo the Ibuth; on the north flope are plantations of fir, oak, birch, &c. interf jpcrled with corn-fields and ^ftures. Gafk Is bounded on the ibuth by Dunning, on the weft by Trinity Galk, on the north by Maderty and Methven, and on the eaft bfr Tippermuir and Forteviot.
Population. — ^The population is much the fame as for half a century paft, but has rather increafed fince 1745. In 1790, there were m the pariih 486 individuals, of whom 141 were
> ^ uad*
4^0 Statj^l Account
under tea years of age ; and of the 34$ above tliat age^ i6^ were males, and 181 females^ Of the total number, 335 be- longed to the eftablifhed church, 140 were feceders, and i f of the Epifcopal perfuafion. There are 1 10 inhabited houfes dirperfed over the pari(h, of which i is occupied by an he- ritor, 7.2 by farmcrsi 41 by carpenters, irrights, mafbns, ihoemakers, and taylors, 12 by perpendiclers% 13 by day- labourers, 15 by fiogle women, 4 by married fervants, and ' the remaining 2 by the minifter and the fchooloiafter. The number of male fervants is 48, and of female fervanu 40. There are, on an average, 10 bapti(cd| 6^buried, and 5 couple married in a year,
Stiptndi Powr^ (^c* The living is L. 43 in money, 2 chal* ders of meal, t chalder of barley, and a glebe of 4| acres. The manfe was built in 1750 ; the kirk is old, bat kept iff good repair by the heritors. The king is patron* The ave- rage number of poor upon the funds for thefe 2; years is 6 1 and the amount of coUeftioas and doaatioos for their fup. port is L. 15 anaually.
Prwba, 4^ir«— The parifli pfodaciss wlieatt barley, peafe, potatoes, taraips, fown and pafture gra& ^ aad foppliet itttf with all forts of grain, befide fiOKng confiderable qaaatities to Perth, Crieff, See There asie pvctiy large bcdt of mail here. Freo-ftoDe aad grey ilate abound, and are eafily qosr* ried.
Mi/cellaneous Ob/ervaHms^-^The adf is dty and kesJthf. The Earn, which forms the fouthem boundary, is a coufl* ilrable rhrer, though not navigable, producing tklmon, trout,
and
f Gotugers, who hold a finall piece of gronad of the teaant
skUd pike* There are 131 horfcs, 648 head of cattle, and 50 iheep la the parifli \ of wild quadrupeds thefe are foxes^ badgers, polecats, and rabbits ; of birds, partridges, wood- cocks, black-cocks, fnipes, &c. A malbn^s wages are i s, 4 d. a wrright's 10 d. a taylor's 6d. and a day-labourer's 6d. a day« with vi£hial9. The fuel uied hire is coal apd peat \ the former cofts i } d. a fione. The air b dry and healthy*
jintiqutties. — ^A Roman caufeWay runs through the middle
of the parifli, on the higbeft ground i it b ao'fcet broad, com«
poled of rough ftones, clofely hid together, and points we(l«
ward to a camp, ftill diftinguifliable, in the parifli of Muthil^
and eaftward to another, alfo vifible, in the parifli of Scone«
This caufeway is in entire prefervation, as the proprietor of
the adjacent grounds, though he indofed the fields on each
fide with ftone-dikes, did not fuffer a ftone to be taken froth
the road. Along the caufeway are ftations capable of con»
taintng 1 a or 20 men % they are inclofed by ditches, yet very
djftioA,and feem to have been d«ffigned for the accommodation
of the overfeers of the work. Within Gafl&^s policy, in this pa*
rifli^ veftiges of two Roman camps, one on the ibuth, and
the other on the north of the eaoTeway, are ft31 rifible \ and
the ditdie% with the Praetorinm, are dtftinft, though the
ground b planted with fir. One of thefe camps feems to
hare been capaUc of oontainnig 500 men, and the other hadf
that nomber*
Vol.1. jp HUBf.
48f StatiftUal Auma
NUMBER hVL
UNITED PARISHES OF LiaMORE AND APPIN.
Sj the Rev. Mr Doi^ald M<Nicol.
Origin g/* the Name,
KILLMULU AG, and Ifl^nd Mund, wen tbt old aamo of thefe parifhes, and ibe otdj names bf whkh xhej arc defigncd in the Teind reoords at Edinburgh, ¥ittmylu§g literally fignifies the Cell or CSiapel of St Mulos^ a &im of the feventh cemary, who #as the firft dignitarf bere, and probably laid the foundation of the cathedral. IfUmdMwai fignifies the Ifland of St Mongo, a fmall iffland ia Loch Levca in Glenco, dedicated to that lidnt. The ifland has been long the common cemeterji or buiying placet of the anhabitana of Glenco. Lifimrt^ the modem name of thb parifli, iign^ fies large, or extenfive gardens. Lis^ or Ziv , in die Cdtk language, denotes a garden.
JSMfrn/.— The extent of this parifli will hardly be credited by an inhabitant of the Tooth of Scotland, being, from the Ibuth-weft end of Lifmoxis to the extreme part of Ken- lochbeg, to the north-eaft in Appin, 63 miles long, by lo^ and ia fome places 16, broad. It is interfered by coofi-
dcrable
f^ Ufmore andAfpliu 483
dcraUe arms of the fea, and comprehends the countries of Z^iTmore, Airds, Straith of Appin, Durror, Glencreren, Glen- CO, and Kingerloch : The laft is 9 computed miles long, iU toaled in the north fide of Linoeheloch, an arm of the fern about 3 leagues over, which divides it from Lifmore. This united pari(h is bounded by the feas that divide it from Ard- cfhattan and Kilhnore to the fouth and fouth-eaft ; by Glen- urchy or Qachandyfart on the eaft, 2t the King's Houfe ; by Killmalie on the north-eaft ; by Suineart, a part of the parifljt of Ardnamurchan, on the north-weft 1 by Morvein on th^ weft ; and by the Ifland of Mull, and the great WcfternOceaUi on the weft and fouth- weft.
Situation and Sutface. — ^Th«s parifh is fituated in the ihire and fynod of Argyle, and preibytery of Lorn. In a parifh of this prodigious extent, the ibil muft be various. The Ifland of Lifmore, where the ninifter refidcs, is 1.0 miles loag, and from a mile to a mile and a half, Qr two miles broad. It is founded totally on lime-ftone rock. The fur- face b moftly very rugged and uneven, by the interfe£lioxi of the rocks. The foil is rich, confifting of black foft loam, formed from the fsrface of the lime-ftone mouldered down, and produces much grain. The parifh of Appln is a happy mixture of foil, equally fiiited to com and grafs ; but by far the greateft part of this extenfive parilh is mountain^ 9us, and well adapted for i9»eep. There is very little grain raifed in Kingerloch, or even in the higher parts of Appin, lince (heep fiocks have been found beneficial. Many of the flieep farms are very extcnfive ♦, and, confidcring the height of the hills, produce excellent grafs, and, of courfc, very good (heep, perhaps among the beft in thefe weftcrn
diftriAs.
* Pne of tbcm is 18 Scou miles long.
4S4 Siatijllcal Account
diftriAs. There are few hills in the Highlands where th« grafs grcyws higher up towards the tops than in thefe moon> tains. The very fummits of them all arc rocky. A very fcnall proportion of the laad in Kingerloch and Appin is now An tillage.
Clhnaie and Df/iofis^-^Thc cKmatc here, like all the com- tries expofed to the great Atlantic Ocean, is generally moill and damp } the two laft years have been more remarkably tnoift than any in the memory of this generation. A great deal of rain falls here, but there are feldom fuch floods, or heavy falls, as in the fouth, except a few thunder iliowers in very warm fummers. There is feldom foch deep fnow here, or of fuch long continuance, as in the fouth i nor is the froft generally fo intenfe, though arms of the fea have been known to freeze over. Few local or epi- demical difterapers prevail here. The rheumatifm, the ge- fteral complaint of all moift climates, is very common in thefe parts : It is rather matter of furprife that it is not more fre- quent, confidering the dampnefs of moft of the common peo- ple's houfes, and how much the inhabitants are expofed to rain and cold^ efpccially as their ordinary mode of living is not very luxurious. Fevers and fluxes fometimes prevail among the country people 5 and colds and coughs are very frequent Ija fcvcre winters and fprings. Agues are almoft unknown here. Within thefe two or three years, the jaundice is be- come very frequent in this and fome neighbouring parifhes. Many of the inhabitants live to a great age. During the re- (idence of the prcfent incumbent, many inftances of longevity have appeared. Many live to the age of 84, and 85, fome to po, 94, and 96, and even to 100 years. One man died laft year in Appin at the age of 105. In the year 1744, the prc- fent incumbent fa^ a wom^n in Appin who ws^ ^owed to
be
of Li/more and Appin. 485
Ik I x6» She then fat in a very ere£t pofturei fpinnbg at a rock or diftstf. Innoculation is beginning to gain ground among the common people, though fome of them fiill retain Tiolent prejudices againft it. The inhabitants are, on the wbde, abundantly healthy, oving^ probably, in part to their not living pent up in towns or villages^ or being more or lei« employed in fedentary occupations. They live moftly in houfes detached from each other ; and are induftrious, chear* fill, and conftanily engaged in adlive employments in the open air, which greatly tends to the prefervation of their health. The conftant fea-breezes likewife prove very £u ^oiirable to their cooftitutions. The^inhabitants of Ltfmore have univerfally the benefit of as fine frefh water fprings, \^ fuing from lime*ftone rocks, as any country can boaft of* When they engage in fowing or reaping, they often work very keenly ; and, in rowing their fmall open boats, they of- ten over-exert themfelves, to the great detriment of their health. The military ardour of all Highlanders is a well known chara£teri(lic.
Rivers. — The rivers Crcren, Co, or Conn, (the Fingalian Cona, a beautiful romantic river), the river of Coinich in Kingerloch, with thofe of Durror, Bailichelifli, Laroch, and Leven, are the moft confiderable. Moll of thefe contain falmon, pore or lefs, and all of them yellow, or mofs and fea troiit, in the proper fer.fons. None of the trouts are ever fold -, and few of the falmon are fold in the country } whei| tthey are, they fetch 2 d. and 3 d. a pound. There are feve* ral freOi water lakes in thefe parifhes, containing abun- dance of fine trouts; particularly three lakes in Lifmore^ two of which contain plenty of fine yellow trouts. About 50 or ^o years ago, there were ibme fea trouts carried to thefe lal^esi the breed of which preferve their diftuiAion per-
feflly
\
4%$ Zuaifikal Aceomit
Mij clear to this day. They retain their fluniDg filverictles^ thoogh they have no communication with the fea % their fiefli b as red as 'that of any falmon, and their tafte is totally dif- fiatnt from that of the yellow trouts. Another finall lake in the ifland contains large eels, but no trouts. Whaks are frequently feen about Lifmore in fummcr and har?eft, when they are in purfuit of the Ihoals of herring* that pais bgr to Fort William and LochiaL A few herrings are fometimes caught in this neighbourhood ; but they (eldom remain in the bays long enough to be caught in great numbers. Seals, or fea calves, are caught frequently with nets on fnnkVocks about Lifmore. The fame fea-fiih and fea-fowl as are on the left of the weftern coaft abound here ; fuch as leas or coddies, both large and fmall, in vaft fiioals ; red or rock cod, lytlies, mackereli and a few flounders.
tfJls.—Tbc hills of Glenco and BailichelUh are by fiu- the higheft in this parifli. The tops of them are conical j and ibme of them are thought to be among the moft romantic in Scotland. There is now an excellent line of road carried through Glenco, from whence thefe romantic ftopendnoos hill?, when contrafted with the delightful valley below, zp^ pear uncommon obje£ls to ftrangers, a^d never ^1 to attrad i^imiration.
^W|.-^There are abundance of natural woods and plant- ing on different eftates in Appin. Some old natural grown firs remain in a few places in the higher parts of the coun- try.
Animals. — ^In Lifmore, there arc neither rats, moles, or foxes. There are otters in great abundance, with a few wild cat9. Weafels made their appearance )xere within thefe 12
^ Ltfinore and Afpin. 4%j
ycari^ bat never before ; and they are now very numeroos* In Apptn and Eingerloch, there are xnoks^ weafels, white ratsi martins, pole-cats, wild«cats, common and monntaia hare i the laft as white as fnow in winter. There was not a common hare in the valleys in Appin, pr in the neighbour- ing parifh of Ardchalian, ao years ago. There are foxes^ badgers, and otters, in Appin. In the lower parts of Appin^ particularly on the Marquis of Tweedel's and Mr CampbeU of Aird's properties, there are roes in great abundance ; not the {he of the hart, as feme of our EngliOi Didionaries faUe- ly denominate them ; for the roes have their bucks and does as the deer have their harts and hinds. In the higher parts of Appin, a few red or mountain deer frequently appear^ when they are feared or frightened from the neighbouring; foreft of Buachail % &c. A few deer occafionally appear ia Kingerloch ; but the iheep will foon bani(h them, as they cannot endure to pafture with them ; nor are the roes fond of it. The fquirrel is now become very rare, if not totally' cxtinA, in this part of the Highlands.
The birds in this parifh are much the fame as in other parts of the Weft Highlands. Eagles abound in Kinger« loch, and the higher parts of Appin, together with ptarmW gans, black cocks or heath*fowI| groufe or moor-fowl. There are a few partridges in Lifmore and Appin. A variety of hawks are found in Lifmore, from the fmatleft kinds to the £dcon oriiunting hawk. Wild geefe hatch in fome of the iilands round Lifmore. Though the very exiftence of the jackdaws with red feet and bills is denied by fome of the in- habitants
* On the baaks of the river Ete, the Flngaltan Ufnoch, and fats three renowned fons, Naos or Naois, Ailli, and Ardan* were bom, as fct forth by Mr M«Pherfon. This is a piesc of traditionary hiftory well known in thefe countries.
4S8 StafiJKeal Jccount
habitants o{ the fouth of Scotland, yet there is nothing mo^e . certain than that thej are to be found hatching in the rocks about Lifmore. They are nearly of the faine iize with the grey-headed ones. The cuckow, fwailow, water-wagtail, wood-cock| corn-crake or rail, with the lapwing, or greea ^over, make their appearance at the ftated fca(bns« In &- ▼ere winters, a few fwans vifit the lakes of this parifli \ but they feldom remain long in this country.
Numbif ofHorfes^ Sheep^ Istc. — It is difficult to afcertain the number of cattle in tbefe parifiics. Very few horfes are now bred here ; and all the bbck cattle bred are principally intended for common family ufe. There are 25000 (heep in in the parifh, or perhaps many more, as they are daily on the increafe. The value of wool here has been always fluc« tuating, from 3 s. 9 d. to 6 s. and 7 s. the ftonc, the white, and that laid with tar mixed. At an average, from 7 to 8 fleeces go to a ftone.
Populatkn.^^ThsTC >s no afcertaining whether population is on the increafe or decline here, though, at firft view, the ixnmenfe trads of fheep-Eu-ms might naturally induce us to think it decreafing. The inhabitants amount at prefent to 3526 foub. Lifmore contains 1 121 of that number.
A rage for emigration has got to a great height, of late, in the Highlands. There have been two emigrations from tbefe parifhes, particularly from Appin. The inhabitants arc now become fo crowded, that fome relief of this fort, in one (hape or other, fecms abfolutely neceflary. In 1775, the firft (hip, completely loaded with emigrants, moftly from thcfe parifh- es, failed for North Carolina. The American war, which Woke out next year, put a fiop to aU attempts of tins oatiM
till
'9f tijhtoire and AppiH. 489
tni laft auttSmn, when another fhip, with emigrants, moftty from Appin, and the higher parts of Ardchattan parifli, car* tied away aboat 200 people for North Carolina. Prepara- tions are making for another emigratibo frOm thefe parUheft this year;
Btrthsy Deathly ahd Marriages.^t is a difficult matter to mfcertain exadtly deaths, births, or marriages, in thefe exten- five pariflies, particularly on account of the great number of Epifcopals and feAaries in Appin. It is impoffible to keep any rcgifter of deaths, becatifc thcrfc arfe fcvfcn or eight dif* ferent places of interment, and fome of thefe at great diftan- CCS from each other. There arc ftveral chriftenings in Gleri- CO not inferted in th&Regifter, as alfo all that are bapttfed by the feAaties.
Rtnt^ i^c. — ^Thc rent of thefe patiftes has Increafett exceedingly within thefe few years. When the prefent in* cumbent gave in a rental lately, in a prdcefs of augmenta* tion, it amounted only to L;4400 and odd pounds yearly* At preient, the rental is about L. 8000 Sterling yearly^ exclufiv« « of kelp, woods, &c. Some lands in the parifh are let at 10 §4 the acre, and fbme even higher ) but this is not the cafe ia general. There are 17 heritors poiTeiTed of property m theft pariihes \ eight of whom are refident.
Cr^.— "The only crops raifed in thefe pariihes are oits^ barley, and potatoes, with a little flax. From the fmall triab made by a few gentlemen, clover, ryegrafs, and turnips, an«« fwer very well in both pariihes. The minifter has fown al little clover and rye-^grafs dn his glebe for x8 or 20 years paft, arid he finds great betiefit from it. Mod of the r^t# of Lifmore are paid in kind, u e. in meal and barley. Som«
49^ Stati/lical Account
farms in this parifli few 20, feme 26 bolls, of hxAcf jeMAj % and from 60 to 70 bolls of oats. But the returns are very finally owing to an unhappy defire among the £u-mers of bbouring yearly too much unripe ground, that is, ground that is not allowed age fufficient to ftrengthen it. There is both rock and mofs marl in Lifmore in great quantities, and aUb fome in Appin. This the tenants often ufe with too liberal a fiaodt to the great detriment of fuch ground as is not allowed agjc enough. But the iQvincible impediment to cultiyadon in ge- neral (befides the obftru£tion given by the rocks to the plough in. Lifmore) is want of fuel to burn lime. Peats are the only fuel in both pariQies. The procefi of making them in Lifmore is difficult beyond conception, as they are firft tramped and wrought with men's feet, and then formed by the women's hands. There is a neceffity fer this ; becauTc the fubftance of which they are made contains no fibres to enable them to cohere or fttck together. This tedious o« peration confumes much of the farmer's time, which, in a grain country, might be employed to much better advantage ^ and affords ferious caufe of regret that the coal-duty is not taken off, or leflened, which would remove the everiafting bar ta the fuccefs of the fifliing villages, and to improvemenu in general over all the coafts of Scotland. It may be aver* red, with feme degree of confidence, that, unleis the coaft- duty be in fome fhape altered, the fiihing villages, juftly coo* fidered at prefent fuch flattering national objcAs, muft be bid afide. Grain is not fo ftrong here as in the fouth, ow« ing to the inceffant rains. Lime would perhaps, in fome meafure, remedy this evil.
Ecclefiaftical State of the Farifb ^The Duke of Argyle is
patron of this parifl). All the inhabitants of Lifmore are pf the EftablUhed Church of Scotbnd ; as are thofe of King*
erlocbi
rfLymri and Afpin. 491
<ar{och ; and, excepting a few, there is not a Seceder in
tidier pariib. There are four or five Papifts in the pa-
wi&k of Appin, all of whom came from other parifliA
except one man, who was converted by his wife, an Irifh*
^roman. There are great numbers of Epxfcopalians, in the
higher parts of the parifhof Appin \ and a clergyman of their
own peribafion refides among them. There are four placet
of worihip in the parifli, viz. Lifmore «nd Appin, Glenco
and Kingerloch. There ts a miffionary eftabUfhed by the
committee for managing the royal bounty between Glenco
and the nesghbonring glens belonging to the parifh of Ard«
chattan. The milBonary of Strontian preaches four times ia
the year at Kingerloch. It is the opinion of the judicious, that
the funds for miffionaries and catechifts ihoukl have been all
alloted, long ago, for building new churches in thefe eztenfive
pariCbes. It would unqueftionably turn out to much greater
advantage to the public. Lifmore was a Bifhop's See, the
refideace of the BiOiop of the Ifles, and, at certain periods, of
the Bifhop of Argyle. The prefent church of Lifmore is
the chancel of the old cathedral new roofed about 40 years
ago, after lowering the old walls from ten to feven fc:et. The
font and 'confeffional chair remain. The walls of the Bi^
ihop's CafUe ftill remain pretty entire, four miles to the weft
of the cathedral. It has a fquare open court within. There
was a (mall temple, with a burying ground, on an iiland,
or rather- peninfula, called Bemera, on the farm where the
caftle ftands. In Appin, there is a neat, fmall church» lately
rqiaired. The church yard is inclofed with a wall of ftone
and lime. The manfe in Lifmore is not very good. It was
built about 34 years ago, an4 repaired within thefe 20 years.
The prefent incumbent, Mr Donald M^NicoI,. was admitted
minifter of Lifmore and Appin the 15th of July 1766. The
living was only L. 60 : 19 : 7 Sterling yearly, by the old con-
veriion^
49« Statifttcal Accmmt
verfioD, tjH the Lord$ of Seffioa granted an ftqgmcBtadoiii m June la(l» DfL.38 : 18 : 3 yearly The viAvaXcoofiftsof aifaob « firlots of barley, 52 bolls a firlocs of oat^meaU (9 ftones tothc boU), which» by the old con^rfios of xoo lib. the chdder, floakes the Itying now L. 99 : 17 : 10 Sterling yearly, iochid- ing too merks for communton-eleinefits, befides a giebc of 4^ acres arable, and about 6 acres of paAure gronxnd, ixu>fik bog or marfli. The value of the glebe cannot be caiily after* tained. The pofterity qf the fextons hold t fmall (Hcce of free land, that fetches a rent of about L. la Steriiog yearly. They held their charter (a Latin One) originally from the Bifiiops, 00 exprefs condition that they we^e to prefers the bticulum twrr/ {irobably the croGer. T«retity*fiye yean %gOt the property paid only Im 4 Sterling yearly rent. It 11 fuppofed to be among the oldeft properties in the pafifli« handed down regularly in a lineal fucceffion. Buchanani in his Hiftory of Scotland, aflerts that, in his timCi there were Ibme remains of religious ho^tfcs in the iflands Dretni^h and Ramafa, on the norih fide of Lifmore. Dr. Walker^ Profeflor of Natural Hiftory at Edinburgh, and the prefeat incuunbeotg fearched for thefe ruins z^ ycar^ ago^ but no Teftiges of them were then to be found.
Poor — ^The poor are fupported chiefly by the the charity of the inhabitants, by begging from houfe to houle. Any fupport they get here from the kirii;-fcfiion is not ndeqaate to their maintenance. From L. 1 8 to L. 20 are dtftribotcd in both parifhes, arifing from the Sunday colle&ions, fines, ^nd fome other fmall funds. The Epifcopal congreg;atioa contribute fometimes one or twp guineas a yeari to midce vf |he above fum.
^JEi09/^«<— There is a parochial fchool in LHmorej and \
* thcr
tf Li/kore and Appin. 49}
m -ApfMii, with a falaiy to each of themj firom L. iB «» Xtk 20 Sterling yearly, over, and above the Ichool emolii^ pnents. The falaries ariie ia part from a parochial afleflmcMt fA 4 d. in the pcfund of old valued reoti amounting to ao* xnctks Scots yearly, and fiartly from money mortified I^ £^iog William for eftaUlfiiing fchools in thek parifhea. *rhcre is an excellent good new ichool-houfe in Appin. The Ichool-boufe in Lifmore is very bad j but there is money £t^ building a new one. There is one ichool, with a falary of 1>. 10 Sterling yearly, at the Slate Qjiarry in Glenco, granN ed by the Society for propagat\ng CUriuian Knowledge. The number of fcholars is fo fluAuating, that they cannot be eafi^ afcertained. The fchool in the Straith of Appin condfts of 60, and fometimes %o icholars. The Society bchool at the Slate Quarry confifis of about as many } and the one in Li£> more of 40 or 50, There are fometimes one or more f mailer Ichools kept up at the expence of the inhabitants in the ax)re remote partf of (he parilhes.
AtUijmties. — ^There . are fonie Druidical cairns, or conical heaps of floneS| in different places in the pariihes, which for^ merly contained urns or earthen vafes filled with a(bes, and fome piepes of hvman hones* One of tbefe cairns, of veiy confiderable magnitude^ and of a- regularly conical formd ftands within a very fmall dillance of the cathedral. One pf thefe earthen vafes or urns, containing afiies, and pieces of human fculls and bones, was turned up hft year by the plough ' in a neighbouring farm. In the ifland of Lifmore^ there are feveral veftiges of Roman fortifications \ and parti- cularly an old caftle, wit)i a fufee and draw*bridge, faid to have been built by the Danes, or Scandinaviansi when thef infefted thefe coafts. There is alfo, within half a mile of the cs(hedral| one of (he eircolar tpwers fo frequently to be met
with
494 Siatifikal AMimi
with in the Ifle of Skftf and on the weftem coift of Scot- bad, and which Dr Johaibnt contrvy to the gCDcrad opl- nioos ridicttlouflj aflerts to have been erefted for tatfeivhig the cattle from the depredations of thievea im the night-tiiiic. Tkefe towers have been probaUy intended, portfy at Jeaft, lor raifing beacons or fires on them, to abrm the coaft and coQOtry, on the approach of enemies. For this rca- fbot the greateft care has been always taken to place them in a fitnation commanding a moft extenfive view, fo aa to be fecn from the neighbouring towers and heights. In coiiftmfk- ing the walls of the tower in this ifland^ neither lime nor mortar of any ibrt is uTed.
CMry^/«f/«— The prodigious ftrata of marl, from lo to i6 feet deep, in the bottoms of all the lakes in Lifinore, may be ranked among the curiofities in this parilh. There is m this ifland, in the face of a lime-^fione rock, feveo or eight feet above the furfiice of the ground, and quite beyond the reach of tides, a feam, la or 15 inches broad, of a concre- tion, coropofed of all the varieties of Ihells to be fbimd on thefe coafts, with now and then a fmall mixture of charcoal, as firm, and nearly as folld, as the rock furroonding it, to which it fcems to be perfeAly united, and to make a port. Pieces of it have been canried to Edinburgh. Water nmniog over the face of the lime-ftone rockf in this ifland generally diflblves fofter particles of it, and leaves the more folid parts m a variety of fanciful grotefijue figures.
The lime-ftone rocks in lifmore lie all in one dicefllbo, in layers, one above another, neA-Iy from iboth-eaft to north- weft. There are fcams or fpars three or four feet hroad, of remarkably hard flinty rocks or ftones running acrofs the idand, at the diOance of zj or a mttes. Thefe feams appear
• in
rfLifmore and Appin. 495
in a direft line with thofe in Lifmore, on the oppdite coaft of Xlonrein^ where there is no lime.ftone. But, of all the ctiri* ofities in this ifland, the moft remarkable feem to be deer, and perhaps elk-homs^ of great fize, and cow-horns of ftiU a jsiuch greater £20 in proportion*. The pith of -one of the latter, though much IhriTelled and withered, is 12 inches tin circamfereuce at the root. Tradition aflcrts that this ifland ^ras of old a deer-foreft ; and the number of deer-horns, and a. deerlkeleton found quite entire, confirms the aflertion. It is laid that the feventh moft fuccefsful hunting-chace which Fingal ever had was injthis ifland ; and the inhabitants pre- tend to point out Zlia turn banjUnn^ the hill or eminence of the Fingalian fair ladies, on which they fat to view the di« verfion.
Language. — ^The common language of the parlfli is the Gaelic, a branch of the antient Celtic. The names of all the places in the parifli are manifeftly derived firom it. The mi* nifter preaches, in the long days, both in Gaelic and £ng» lifli ; particularly in Appin, where there are fome who on* derftand £ngli(h only. It is believed that few preachers in any part of the world, except thofe in the Highlands, preach 10 two languages. This is one of the many inconveniencies under which a clergyman labour^ in thefe extcnfive pariflies.
Prices of Provifiont and Laiour.^^AB there is no public market in thefe pariflies, there is no poffibility of alcertain* ing the price of grain or provifions. Barley generally feUs from 1 8 s. to 20s. and 21 s. the boll; meal from 14 s, to 16 s. ; butter generally for 12 s. the ftone, (this ftone flmuld be 24 lb.), and checfe for 5 s. and 6 s. the ftone. What is fold in fpring, or late in the feafon, is often at a higher price. Moft of the work in thefe pariflies is managed by fervants
hired
49j8^ Sfati/tlcal AccouM
hired for the year, and maintained by the reTpcAive familiey that employ them. As the Jufkfces of the Peace found it isDpra£licable to fix a»y ftandard for fervants wages, it is ia WQ, to attempt laying any thing decidedly on this fubjeft. One man pays fervants, both men and women, a thirds and fometimes one half» more tha^ others, owing to the diffe- rence both of treatment and the manner in which they are enjoyed* Such as work for day*s wages have from 8 d. to rs. a day, and maintain themfelves. At fcvere work, (bch as kelp-making, wood-cutting, and coaling, &c« they have much more. A taylor has 6 d. or 8 d, and his yifhials ; and » (hoemaker much the fame ; carpenters, and other mecha. nics, I s. or I s. 2 d. and their vidluals.
Services. — Although pcrfonal fcrviccs performed by tenants ftiil prevail in different parts of the Highlands, they are be- coming obfolctc in thcfc pariflies. The fcrvices were fcldom dlfcretionary, but limited. Some tenants go from this ifland to the main-land to perform thefe fcrvices, at the diftance of & or 9 miles. They devote at lead 6 or 7 days yearly to their mailer's or landlord's fervicc in this way ; and they get fbme allowance,* for the moft part, to fupport them while performing their work. This is over and above 2 or 3 days that fome of them work yearly at roads. Some proprietors in neighbouring parifbes carried thefe fervices to a {hamefdl, not to fay oppreffive, pitch, in obliging their tenants and cottagers to cut, ftack, and houfe their peats, &c, and (o find their own provifions all the time. This is one of the innv- merable grievances occafioned by the heavy coal daty«
Roads and Bridges. — Since the refidence of the prefent in* cnmbent in the pariih, roads and bridges have undergone s remarkable change for the better, efpecially ia Appin. There
tf Lj/htpre and Jlpphk 497
3s an excclteot line of road, moftlj finiflied^ from Shian Ferry through Airdsi Strath of Appin, Dbror, aod Gletlco, (o the Xing's Houfe at Lubnamart, with 6 or 7 bridgeSi for a courfe of 17 or 18 computed miles, befides feveral bj-roads. Laft year a line of road has been opened to Gleocreren. There iias been littlie done to the roads in Lifmore* There are no tolls in the Highlands*
Pe^-Q^r.-^When the prefect iiictimbent came to the pa« ti(h, and feveral years afterwards, the nearcft poft«office was at Inverary \ ind a few of the gentlemen of Appin employed a runner, who went once a week to Inverary to bring their letters, newfpapers, &c, Mr Seaton of Touch, who bought the eftate of Appin (a gentleman particularly attentive to the good of the parifli, and of the country in general) after much trouble and folicitation, got a poft-office eftablifhed in Appin, becoming himfelf fecurity for making good any defi- ciency that might happen. For feveral years the office bare^ ly fupported the expence of the runner, &c. 1 but the circu« lation of correfpondence increafed fo rapidly, that this lad year it made a clear return to the revenue of about L. 74 Sterlings which would defray the whole coal duty of this county yearly, as it ftood lately, by a ftate tak^ from the Cuftomhoufe books. A runner goes now thrice every week from Appin to Bunaw, and from Bunaw to Inverary, and re- turns as often. A branch of this poft-office extends from Buliaw to Oban ; ^nd from Oban» where there is a Cuftom« houfe, to Arofs in the Ifland of MulK Another branch ex- tends from Appin to Fort William, the north line, and like* wife to Strontian. A letter may come in three days, or even two days and a half, from Edinburgh to Appin. The cfta- bli&ment of this poft-office contributes highly to the pUa- fure and advantage of this country and the neighbourhpod %
VoL.X 3 R thoogh
49^ StaHfticat AcMttit
though it muft be acknowledged that it cofts nearly L. ^m Sterling yearly. Numbers of carriers arc employed monthly between Appin, Benderloch, Oban, andGIafgow; and vei^ fcls called packets run generally once a month between Grecn- ock| Oban, and Mull, with goods of various (brts for the ac« commodation of the neighbourmg countries. The poft-o& fice in Appin is at prerent kept by Mr John McLaren IchooT- maftcr, for a fmall laiary of not more than about L. 5 Ster- ling yearly^
Majacre efGtenco. — ^h were to be wifhed that a veil conld be thrown over this part of our hiftory, as it was the moft bar- barotjc tranfatflion ot modem times fanflioned by any regular authority froiu government. The maflacre of Glcnco hap- pened in King Willlam^s reign, and is a circumftaoce well known. As it does not add much luftre to the humanity of the times, it may fufiice to obferTC, that all the inhabitants who could be feizec! were indrrcriminately butchered in cold blood, moftly in their beds, by the fbldiers and officers wh0 were their gucfls^ and hbipitabty entertained for ten days be- fore. The officers were playing cards with Glenco and Mrs McDonald the early part of the night : Before day, Glenco was murd'ered in his wife's arms. Mr McDonald of Achtri- chatain fhared the fame fate.
Public Houfes. — Tn Kingerloch there arc 2 pubKc houfes, at the t'v ferries to Lifmore and Appin, where they cannot be wanted ; in Appin there are 9 or 10 ; in Lifmore 7 or 8. Thefe houfes' cannot be fuppofed to improve the morals of the people; though, in a country Gtuated as this is, a few of th''m can^ot'bc wanted. Four or five of thofe in Appin arc (lace houfes. and pretty well kept; the others are but of a \^ry ordinary kind.
ff Lifmore and Appinl 499
Ste Coafis and Currents^ (9*^.— There is a yaft extent of fes^ coaft in thefe pariflies ; perhaps from 80 to 90 miles in all <lire6lions. Where it lies contiguous, a great deal of fes^ ^reed is ufed for manuring the ground for barley and pota»> toes. There is a violent current between the weft end of IJfmore and MuU, well known to fea-faring people, at the dangerous rock of Carrig, which is covered with the tide at liigh water. Inhere are a number of fmaller currents, though not fo deferring of notice. There is a fmall, but ftrong one, at the Feny of Bailicheli(h, leading up to Lochleven and the Hate quany. There is a pretty ftrong one at the ferry be- tween Lifmore and Appin, and another at Shian Ferry, .be- tween Appin and Benderloch. Between the weft end of Li& more and Morvein three ftreams meet, in conlequence of contrary tides, which, In tempeftuous weather, occafion a finart fwell and broken feas. All the above currents change their coturfes regularly with the tides. The beft anchoring about the ifland^ for veflels of any burden, is in the narrow found between Ramafii and LilinQre, near the north point of the ifland. There is likewife very fafe anchoring a little to the weft of Ramafa, in the Bay of Ifland Lochofcalr, (Ofcar's Ifland), by Buchanan termed Mohch^fcair^ where veiTels of any burden can conveniently ride in ^ pre^y fafe road, and free of any breakers.
MUiit^ ^jutrrksy ^^-^^Several appearances of lead mines are to be found in Appin : Only one of them was attempted to be wrought, but it did not turn out to any advantage. There is fome appearance of marble in Appin ; but the flate quarry of Bailichelifli, at Laroch in Glenco, is the only quarrv of this nature in the pariih that has turned out to any material ad- vantage •. There arc a great number of hands at work %
and
f There are 74 families in the qoarry, containing 328 fouls^
500 StatyHctd Aacma
and a giMt quantity of flatet are ttnt fearly to the nordi a&J cafi conntricfi to Leithi Clyde, England, Irelapd» and cvea to America. Veilets of any burden can load moft coshbo- dioufly in fint fnK>orh fand, fo near the fliore, that diey oiay be loaded by throwing a few planks betweoi the ircflela aad the Ihore ; and there it little ct no fweH in the road. The quality of the flates is thought very good. Bomhig of Bine for fale has been begun by adventured in Liftnore add Ap- pin; and, as the Hme is of a moft fuperior quality^ this mi* dertakii^g might turn out to adirantage, not only to the ad- Tentuxm, but to the puUie at lav^i as an eticooragcawnt to building, hulbandry, Sec. were it not Ibr the check given to k by the coal duty.
Advantages and Dtfa^hantages. — ^Tho principal advantage is thefe part<hea is the vaft extent of fea^coaftt vkh bays and inlets. The fnow fcIJom lies deep or long, on the fea-ooft, a cirtumftlnce highly favourable to flieep and black cattk. The good roads and brldgei in Appin ai^ of great and general utility. Peats are the common fuel of the country, but they take up the very bcft pirt of the feaibii to fimire them. The freciuent rains here often deftroy ibme of Ais part of the &r. mer's induftry. The high duty on coals is the greateft dif- advantage theft parilhes labours under, and prove an Bnlor'> mountable bar to manufactures and improvements of all forts. The want of public eftabli(hed markets is likewife a great dif- advantage. A ton of coals cofts from tB s. to 2i s. and 24 s. The duty on fait is likewife a great grievance, as managed at prefent, and requires to be remedied. The trouble of preparing, and the time confumed by the inhabitants in fecurlng their foe), in Lifmore in particular, where attention to thenr crops and til- lage, would take up all the hdxMir Ihey could fpare, is a mod ferious grievance^ and to be remedied only by w alteration
ui
^ Lifm^e and A^bu $%%
tm At coal dtttj. Tim is an objeA of higli national conccftit ip which the gentlemen of property are moft deeply intcw rofted^ and to whi^» it is hopedi thej will pay pardcular at«t tention } and, if they wiih that thefe conntries fboiiid ever aum out to any proper account in the way of mannfae* turet, tillage, or any other improyements, they (hould alt unite as one man to endeavour to rectify this grievance, and get their country r^ved from fo unhappy a nuifincc.
MifalUneous Oiftnfaiitmi.^^Thete Is a remarkable echo near the Bifliop^s o)d caftle at Achinduin : It repeats diftin^ ly feven or eight fyllaUes. There is another at an old caAlo m Kinger)ocb| much the fame as the above. There are live difierent remains or ruins of old caftles in thefe parilhes. Oa the (both fide of Lifmore, oppofite to Oban, there ftands M afaiaU ifland, (EiUeanna cleich), a curious rock, covered ifi part with ivy, and perfiiAly refembling the ruins of an old houfe. Mr Pennant was fb firuck with its romantic appear- ance, that he made it the firontifpiece to the laft volume of kis travels. Several eftates in thefe pariflies have been re- gularly furveyed i but where there are fo many proprietors, and the whole not furveyed, it is impoffible to afcertain thei number of acres*
The people in this parifii are, in general, laborious and in« duftrious. Crimes of an enormous nature are hardly known here. No Inftance of fuidde, or of murder, has occurred for 25 years pad. The common people are lels addi£lcd to drinking than they were ao years ago. All ranks are remark- able for their charity to the poor. In fevere feafons, many of them double their attention to relieve the wants of the needy. No inhabitant of thefe extenfive parilhes has been executed or banlihed for 25 years paft» One or two perfons, guilty
of
SM Stati^ical AceowU
of fiune irregularities, voluntarily banilhed theinfelvcs. Time ioM been no inftance of child murder in the parifli in the memory of man. This is a crime hardly known in the weft Highlands. The people ia this part are much lefs floOuat- ing in their rdigtons opinions than they are to the ibath- ward:
A man of fingolar frame was bom in Appin* He was the ftonteft or thickeft man in Britaini or even perhaps in £o- Bopei at the time« His name was Carmichad. He was a fiddler in the 4ad regiment, and died above 30 years ago. He was faid to be not above fix fieet high ; but was fo fingo- lar for the ftontnefs of his maket that his portrait^ as large as the li£ei was painted, by order of the Klng» and placed in the Tower of London as a curiofity. He was noted iar the Biildnefs of his difpofition. He could carry on his bock, with caie» I cwt. more than the ftrongeft porter in DuUm.
NUM.
?N U M B £ R LUL
PARISH OF MEIGLE.
£y tie Riv. Dr James Platfair»
Situation and Extent.
TH E parilh of Meigle, in the center of Strathmore, it bounded on the north- weft and north by the riven of lila and Dean ; on the eaft and fouth by the parifhes of £flay> Nevay, and Ncwtylc ; on the fouth-wcft and weft by thofe of Kctins and Coupar ; lying in 56° 36' N. latitude, and / E. longitude from Edinburgh \ being 4^ miles from S. W. to N* £. and 1 — a miles broad.
Strathmore — ^Is an extcnfive plain, reaching from the vici- nity of Perth to Brechin, almoft 40 miles long, and 4—6 broad, bounded by two ridges of mountains. The fouth ridge, called Sidla, extends from Perth eaftward to Red-head, a promontory on the coaft of the German Ocea% between Arbroath and Montrofe. The Grampians form the northern boundary, and traverie the ifland. The elevation of feveral mountains on the borders of the Strath has been afcertained by barometrical meafurement, as follows : DunCnnan-hill, on which a caftle or fort was ere£{ed by Macbeth, 10x4 J feet above the level of the fea at low water mark \ King-feat, % mile eaftward, 1238 feet} the meridian mark of Belmont,
7S9
504 StatlftlaU Aiimmt
759 feet ; Kinporme-hill) noted for a tower on its {timmif, 3 miles S. E. of Belmont, 1 151 feet ; Sidla-hiD, a mile S. E« of Kinparniei 1406 feet^ Barry-hill, on the oppofite border of the Strath, 3 miles northward of Belmooc, 688 feet. This level and fertile Strath is beautifnllj diverfified with planta- tions of trees, cukivaced fields, towns, villages, and feats : But ieveral coofiderable tra^ are fiill barren, and covered with heath.
iifti^/— The river Ida hos its iburce in the Grampian Mountains, feveral miki northward of Mount Blair: Bathing the foot of that mountain, it turns eaftward, travedes loogi- todmally the narrow valley of Glenifla, below which it forms a cafcade, called the Reekj Linn, upwards of 30 feet high. Afterwards, proceeding through a deep and rocky channel, it is augpnented by two fmall fircams at the bafe of a rocky penin- fiila, on which lie the ruins of Airly Caftle, which was antient« lynilrong fortrefs, conftru£led at different periods, and deoiQ- liihed during the Commonwealth. Thence the lila defcends with rapidity into the plain, and runs fouthward near a plea* fant feat formerly called Ruthven, now IflaFbank. Suddenly changing the direction of its courfe to W« S. W. it flowly moves, in a winding paflage, through a flat country, which it frequently inundates, receives the Ericht two miles north of Cupar, and falls into the Tay at Kincleven. There are three bridges on the Ifla i one between the lower extremity of Glenifla and Airly Caftle i another near the church of Ruthven ; and a third a mile N. W. of Cupar. In the neighbourhood of Meigle, there is a ferry*boat on the Ula, in the road from Dundee to'Alyth. Several attempts have been made to raife L. 800 for building a bridge at that £er« sy; but thefe have been hitherto fruftraupd by the focieties who fverepeculiarly interefted in their fu£ce& In r»ny fea-
foo%
^ Meigle^ 505
ibasy theilfla and Ericht prove very prqudicial to the adja« cent fields. lacreaied by man/ rapid torrents, they oTerflaW their bahks> and romttimesy with refiftlels fbrce^ fweep away whole harveftsy and ruin *< the wcU earned treafures of th« M labouring year."
The' Dean flows from the lake of Fqrfiur, pafics by Glammis Caftkt ia oleanders glides gently along the north bordevs «f E&y and Meiglr, and lofes itfelf in the Iflsi half a mile M. N. W. of the town of Meigle. The courfe of this river^ In a direA line, does not eiceed w mSes. Acrofs it is a ikarrow and badly conftruAed bridge^ in the road from Cupar to Kirrtasauir.
A rivdet originates to Kinpomie-hill, mns N. W. through the pariih of Newtyle, waters the weftcm part of this pariflif and augmenu the Dean a mile above the influx of that river into the Ifla.
jtnt^ttities.^^Tbore are many remains of antiquity in this pariih and neighbourhood! but^ with regard to thefe, tra* ditioa gives us little information, and antient records ftill lefs^ The accounts handed down through each fucceeding genera Cion are grofsly corrupted. The tales and ftorles rebted by fabulous writers are, for the moft part, too wild and extras -vagant to merit belief. Abandoning, therefore, all fuch le» gends to tholis who can find inftruAion or entertainment in them, we (hall proceed to a review of the moft remarkable monuments of antiquity in this comer, taking notice of the moft plaofible conje£hires concermng them«
In the JosloTures of Belmont there is a tumulus called ^//»« iif^ which tradition wiU have to be the fjpot where Macbeth i Vol. I. 3 » fottglit
5^6 SMiJlical Aecount
fought and fell ; and, at forne diihnce, a ftooe of grafuic^ ao tons in wt'f.^ht, (lands alnioft trtSk^ to coiritncmorate^ it it faid, the dearh of one of his generals i Btit that tyraDti it k more probable^ was flain at Luaiphanan> a village In theMeams.
In the church- yard of Meigle are the remains of the grand fepulchral monument of Vanora, alfo called Vanera^ Wanor, and Guinevar, the Britifli Helenai as her na v.e» aocording to Prideaoxi imports. This princels was the wife of ArthuTy . who flourifhed m the ^th century, and whole hiftory is in« TOlved in fables. In a battle between the army of that mo* narch and the united fi»-ces of Scots artd PiAs, Vanora was taken prifoner, and carried, along with other fpoik« into Angus, where (he lived fome time in nufarable captivity on Barry-hkll* - Such is the doubtful account recorded in the antient antnrls of this country. The cbara£ler of that unfivr- tunate perfonage has been drawn in'the blackeft colours. She has been repretented as one who led a lafcivlous life, aod held an unlawful corrdjpondence with Mordred, a Pifiilh king, which provoked the jealoofy of her huiband, and excited him to take up arms in revenge of the injury. As a punifliment of her enornious crime*;, It is added, (he Was torn in pieces by wild beafh | her body was burted at Meigle, and a menu- nient ereAed to t)erpetiiate her infamy; Whether thn detail be i^enuine, or has arifen from theTymbdic characters on the ftonesi it is impoffibk to determine*
That monument feems to have been campoied of many Aon«3s artfiiliy joined, and drcorated with a variety of hiero- glyphical or fymbolical charaders^ moft of which arc of the moriftrous kmdy and reprtrtent Ti&s of violence on the perfon of a woman. On one ftone afc three fmall croflcs, whh many animals above and below. On another is a cro& adorned
wiJi
o/Meigle. ^07
with various flowers, and the rude re prclentarioiM of fiflies^ beails, and men on horfcrack. On a third is an open cha« riot drawn by two horfes, and foine perfons in it } behind is a wild beaft devouring an human form lying proftrate on the earth. On a fourth is an animal fomewhat refembling an elephant. On another, 8 feet long^ and 3 feet 3 inches broad» fhinding upright in a ibcket, there is a crofs. In the middle are feveral figures with the bodies of horfes, or cauicls, and the heads of ferpents ; on each fide of which are wild beafU and reptiles confiderably impaired. On the reverie is the figure of a woman, attacked on all fides by dogs and other furious aniiiuiis. Above are feveral persons on horleback, with hounds, engaged in the chace. Below is a centaur, and a ferpent of enormous fize faftened on the mouth ot a bull. Accurate drawings of fhofe ftones are to be found in lE*en- nant's Tour. Many other ftones, which originally belonged to this monument, have been carried off, or broken m pieces^ by the inhabitants oi this place. As ieveral of thole which remain have been removed from their proper poiition ; as many of the figures are de&ced } and as we are, in a great meafure, unacquainted with the art of decyphering hierogty« phics, the hiftory delineated on Vanora's monument is now irrecoverably loft. The antiquary may amufe himfelf with the fragments which remain 1 but he can icarcely form one plaufible coojeAure with refpeft to their origmal meanmg and defign. I'he fabulous fioeee records a tradition prevail* ing in his time, viz that, if a young woman fhall walk over the grave of Vanora, (he fliall entail on herfelf perpetual fte- rility. But, whatever apprehenfions of this nature the fair fex in his time might hiv^* rntcrtatncd. the moft credulous ^fft not now affraid oi making the experiment.
Barry-hiH,
5oS Statlftkal Acccmi
Barry-kilU the fuppofed place of Vanora's cODfinemcDtt merits fome defcription. It is one of the Grampians, i \ mik N. £• of Alyth, it commands an extenfive view of Strath- more, and of feverai remarkable hills in the Sidla range, viz. Dunfinnan, Kinpuriiie» Sidla, Finhaven, &c. all of which miglit have been antiently ufed as watch towers, or places of defence, Hiftory informs us that the PiAs kept pofleffioo of Dun-barry, and the adjacent country, from a remote pe* riod to the 9th century, or later ; but the prccife dates of their lettlement in thole parts, and of their cxpidfion, can- not be alcertained- The hill itfelf is of an oval form. Its fummit was levelled into an area 180 feet long, and 72 or 74 broad. Around the area a mound of earth was raifcd, from 6 to 8 feet high, and 10 to 1^ broad at top. On this mound a wall of fre&>fione w^s buUt without any cement whatever. The foundation of the wall was compofed of rough granite, and ftiU remains. It is of the fame breadth with the fummit of the mound \ but the height of the wall cannot be known : Gordon's eftimate of it is extremely erro- neous. Among the ruins there are feverai pieces of vitrified fione s but thefe vitrifications muft have been accidental, as they are few and inconfiderable* Along the weft and north borders of the area, barracks, or huts, were built of dry ftone, and fufficiently (heltered by the mound and wall ; but no firufhires of this (brt can be traced in the fouth part of the ai^a. As the north and weft fides of the hill are fteep, and of diflicult accefs, there was no need of an outer ditch in thofe quarters : But, towards the fouth and eaft, where the hiU gently flopes, there is a ditch 10 feet broad, and i a to 16 feet below the foundation of the wall. At the S, £. extre- mity of the fort, a narrow bridge was raifed over the ditch, 18 feet long, and 2 broad, except towards each end, where t\t breadth was increafed. It was compofed of ftones laid
together
together without much art, and vitrified abdve» below, and on both fides ; fo that' the whole maTs was firmly cemented* That an opening was left below, after the proce(s was finiih- ed) is doubtful. On the upper part of the bridge a ftvatnm of gravel was laid, to render the pafiage fmooth and eaijr. This is the fole part of the fort intentionally vitrified. A few yards diftant from the ditch, there is an outer wall, the foun- dation of which is about 8 feet lower than the fummit of the mound. The approach to the fort is from the N. £. along the verge of a precipice ; and the entrance was fecurcd by a bulwark of ftone, the ruins of which are extant. There is no veftige of a well within the fort; but, weftward, between the bafis of the mound and the precipice, there was a deep pond or lalce, recently filled up by the tenants in thit neigh- bourhood. About a quarter of a mile eaftward, on the de* clivity of the hill» there are fome remains of another oval fort, of lefs extent than the preceding, confiding of a ftrong wall and ditch. Tradition fays, that there was a fubtcrra- nean communication between thefe forts, which is not iii> probable. From the account now given, it would appear^ 1. That both were conftruAed before the Romans introduced the art of building ^with lime and other cement. 2. Ihat the Pi£U, and antient Scots had ftone edifices, which Macpher- ibn is not inclmed to admit. 3. That they fometimes vitri- fied particular parts of their forts, ' to render them the mbre durable.
There is n6 veftige of a Roman highway in the neighbour- hood of Melgle, though traces of one have been difcovered jn other parts of the country. At Cupar are extant the out- lines of a camp formed by Agricola's army in his feventh year's expedition. On the praetorium, Malcolm IV by the advice of his grandfather^ founded an abbey for the reception
/af
5i« ' Siatijikal Auomit
af Ciftercian Friarsi A. D. 1 1641 and endowed it wkh a con- fiderable rcvenne.
Pepulatm.'^ KYiOMt a century ago, a confideraUe part of this p'lrifh, VIZ the eftates of Kinloch and Bamyle, belonged to that of Cupar: From a hft then given in to the 'preflif- tery by the Bifliop of Brechin, it appears, that, in Cupar^ there were 8;o coiTjmunicants, and 550 in Meigle. Accor- ding to the report tranlmitted to Dr Wcbftcr, A. D. 1739, concerning the population f tiie Ijttcr» it contained tooo in- habit ints: But that report was not accurate; for, though its num:er*' have be *n confiderably diminifhed fincc that periodi it ri!i contains 1148, including ail ages and denomtnittons, Tl.r-rc are b6 below 3 years; 165 from 3 to 10 j 269, 10— 20; 188, 20—305 145, 30^40; 97, 50— 60 J 43, 60—70; 20, 70 — 80 \ and 8 from 80 to 90.
Rating the entire number at 11501 the proportions of cer- tain ages are nearly as follows, viz ,'y below 3 years ; \ ^^a 3 to 10; i, 10— ao5 ^ 20— jO; i, 30— 40 J I, 40—50; 1*1 » 50—60 i ,V> 60 — 70 } ^, 70—80 J and ^^ from 80 to
In 1 148 inhabitantSi there are 37 unmarried perfons of both fezes who have houfes ; 163 married pairs ; 42 of both iexes in widowhood ; and 242 families ; fo that the number of widowed perfons of both iexes is to that of married pairs as 1 to 4 nearly. There are bom annually 3*7-1^^ children ; viz, lo^VV (Stales, and 1 - /^ ^^niales : So that 6^ families nearly, produce 1 child a year. The proportion of the births to thar of the whole Inhabttauts is as l to 30,^^ There Vt 7/^ marriages annually.
The
' The fnroptrtrM of peribns who die at certain ages every y^ar it as follows, viz. 9 below 3 years \ x/^ from 3 to 10 ;'2» 10— ao \ aA» ao— 305 at 30— 4»i 2,Vi 40—50$ 3iV» SO— 6pi 3/^ <So— » 70 } 3/79 70*— 80 y I from 80 to 90 : In all 3 1, or yV of the whole mhahuxits. The proportion of females to males who die yearly is td to 15 ; the reverie of what is ufuallf ftated in bills of mortality. The proportion of births to deatbt is 38 to 31 nearly.
The whole pariih is divided among eight proprietors. The valued rent is L. 4200: 17 : a Scots j and the real rent k . about fix times chat fon.
Tcwm^ b'r. —There is no town or village of any note ia the parjfh. . Meigle, an antient, inconfiderable, meanly built^ market town, coataining 2-fi inhabitants, is pleafantly fitua^ ted on a rivulet of the fame name, in the center of the pa« ri(h, at the interfeAion of two turnpike roads, 1 2 miles N, W# of Dundee, 6\ N. £. of Cupar, wai si S. W. of Glammis. The weekly market is on Wednefday. Aimual fairs are held on the laft Wednefday of June and of October. Meigk waa a village, and burying place, before the iptroduAion of Chri& ttanity, as appears from fome fepulchral naonuments and tomb- ftooes lately found In the walls of the church.
S/tf/x.^—There are three feats, in the moft advantageous .£U tuations; and two of them are in good repair. Belmont Caftle, a modehi edifice, ftands on a gentle eminence, 204 feet above the level of half flood mark at P^nbride, and conU maflds an exteafive view of the plain. Fmiflied in the neat- eft and moft commodious manner, it contains a confiderable number of elegant apartments, with, a library confiding of a feiait colle^ion of books, chiefly mathematical, daflical, and
hifiorica|^
ffd Statical Aumm
hiftorical, of the beft editions. The obiervitoiy, on ui :i4* joinifig la^i^t is io 56^ 35' N. latitode» and 3^ 11' 15'' W. longitude from the royal obiervatory at Greenwich. Ths gardens and fine inclofuresi with which this place is fivrbund^ cd, confpire to render it the mofi dcUghtful refidence in fitrathmore. Dnimkilbo and Kinloch acepleafandj fitnafetd: But the latter is in a ruinous condition*
Church. — Meigle is the feat of a prefbyterjr, containing 13 pariflies, in the fynod of Angus and Mearna. Formerly it was annexed to the fee of Duakdd, Several of the BiOicfw of that diocefe refided here \ and two of thenit vie* James Nicolfon and William Lindfay, were interred in the church. The Hrlt prefbyterian clergyman was Mr Millar, who bring sranilated to the Grayfriars in Edinburgh* A. D. 17091 was fiicceeded br David Thompfon, who fcrved the cure 47 years. His iucceflbr, Alexander Scot» was removed from Kingol* drum to this place A. D. 17571 and died in November 1776* In the year following, Dr James Playfair, the, prefent iiicun>- bent, was tranflated from Newtyle. The ftipend of this pa- ri(h is 9 chalders of vl£htal, and about L. 4 Sterling vicarage. The King is patron. The greater part of the ftipend of Donketd is paid out •f this pariih. The church was lately rebuilt, and the manfe is in tolerable repair. On all occa* fions the heritors have exprefied their alacrity in gnnting whatever b necef&cyto the fupport of thefe fabrics.
ScbvoL'^Thc parochial {< hool is endowed with a falary of L.' 106 Scots, befides a dwelling* lioufe :ind fmall garden. The pptfics and emoluments arifing from 45 fcholars are about L 16 a vfar. The fti'ion-clerk^ fee is L. 1 : 10 :o, ana Ills pcrquaites l*. a : 10 : •. The prefent incumbent, by
age
pfMelgh. 513
^e incaptcittted from teachisg, the cdncttion of the 700th bas, for Ibme time paft, been committed to an afliftant.
lff^foiMiM&«-4uiee the year 174;, a fortunate epoch for Bcotland in generali improvements have been carried on with great ardonr and focceff* At that timet the ftate of this coiin« cry was rude beyond conception* The moft fertile traAs were wmilc> or hidiffiarently cultivated, and the bulk of the inhabi- tants werd nncivilioed. The education, manners, drels, fur- niture^ and uble, of the gentry, were not fb liberal, decent, and liimptuons, as thole of ordinary farmers at prefent. The common people, clothed in the coarfefl garb, and (hmring on the meancft fiffe, lived in deffncable huts with their cattle.
The half ploughed fidds jvAAioi fcanty crops, and ma^ nTi£i£faires fiarcely exifted* Almoft every improvement in ^riculture b of a late date} for no ground was then fid« lowedi no peale, graft, turnip, or potatoes, were railed 1 no cattle were £ittened, and little grain was exported. Oats and barley were alternately fowni and, during feven months in the year, Che bed foil was ravaged by flocks of iheep, a certidn number of which were annually (old, and carried off to be fied in richer paftures.
The InaAivity and uidolence of tenants were albni(hiog« When feed-time was fioiflied, the plough and harrow were laid afide till auttuin \ and the fole employment of a farmer and his ferva&ts confifted in weeding hb com fields, and in diggmg and conveying home peat, turf, and heath, for win* ter fiid* The produce of a farm, holding a proportion to thole e«rtionS| vras barely fuflScient to enaUe the tenant to
Vot, I. 3 T pay
J 1 4 Statifiicaf Affouni
pay Kis trifl-n^ refit and flSrTiilA Wa^es, and tOfvooBt & his family a fcanty fubfiftcnc^ . . . -
Th^ rent of an acre of inRM Was 8— ^f :p. ? and oC or- ficld 2 — 5 s. The wa^es of a riialc ftrvain^ were JL i J lo :o, or L. I : 15 : o ; of a female, 12 — I j's. TKc price of ait hcrk L. 4 : 6 : 6 ; of an ox L. 2 yof a (beep 5 s. ; oif -1 bco 4 1; of a dozen eggs id. A cart or coup 14 s ; a pibbgfk ^ s.; an harrow ^d. ; and other ntenfils ot hnfband^ neariy a the fame proportion to the prefent rates. * *•
To emancipate the inhabitants of this country firorti a ftatr of barbarifmi and to roufe a (]3irit of raduftry, was' a bdid aod arduous entcrprife. A gentleman, diftinguilhed by his noi, fortune, and public fpirit, undertook and accompliihed the laik. With a zeal and perfeverance becoming an enltghtco- ed and liberal mind, he formed plahs of improvement, inclo- fed farms wlt& proper fences, baniOied flieep from infidd grounds, combated the prejudices of his tenants, furbiOicd them with marl, diftributed premiums, and otherwife re- warded their exertions. The good effeAs of thofc mca/ora ibon appeared ; and other proprietors imitated the example. In a few years, improvements wer6 diffiifed through the whole country. The tenants, as if awaked out of a profouod fleep, looked around, beheld his fields clothed with the rich- eft harvef><t^ his Kerds fattening in luxuriant paftures, ' his fa-, roily decked in gay attire, his table loaded with folid fare, and wondered at his former ignorance and ftupidity. Tbt landlord rejoiced in tl\c fuccefs of his fchemes, and (hared in the honours and profits of this new ereftion. The nianufic- turer, mechanic, aiid tr.idcfman, redoubled their efforts to fupply the incrcafing demand for the conveniencies and ele- gancies of life.
In
j^ Meigle. 5K5
In thispari/h coofiderable improvements have been made»
X>ut jDuch remains to be effeAed. The greater part of it is
iaclofed and fubdividcd with hedges and hedge- rows ; but
two of the proprietors bei -g minors, their tenants have not
fufficient encouragemept to proceed with vigour. The foil^
in general, is a fioe^ black mold on a bottom of mortar, and
yields excellent crops of wheat, barley, oats, turnip, flax, and
grafs. About eight years ago, the author of this memoir
procured a few grains of oats of an excellent quality, but un«
linown in this country. During the firft three years he fow*
«d them in his garden^, and afterwards in his glebe. The in*
creafe has been confiderable \ for laft year, viz. A. D. 1 7909
there were upwards of 500 bolls of them in the neighbour*
hood. They are 1 7 ftones Engliih per boll, are feveral weeks
earlier than the common oats, and are not liable to be fhakea
by the wind There are 9 farms in this pariQi, from L. 50 to
L. 200 ; about ao from L. 20 to 50 \ the reft are inconlide-
rable.*
The rent of the infield, i. e. qf four-fifths of the whole, is I J*— 30S. 'per acre. The hire of a day labourer is lod. or I s. I of a man lervant L. 7 : 9 : o ; of a female L. 3. The price of beef, mutton, and pork, 3^ d. and 4 d. *, of a turkey 3 s, 6 d, i of a goofc 2 s. 6 d. ; of a hen lod. a dozen e gs 3 d. ; burter 8 d. a pound of 22 ounces; cheefe 5 s. a ftone, fame weight. The prices of wheat, oats, barley, and meal, are crenerally regulated by the market at Dundee. Utenfils of hufbandry are expeniive. A coup is L. 8 : 10 : o i a plough L. I ; 10 : o^ and L. 2 : 2 : o ; a harrow 8 s. } harneis for two hor(c9 L. 2 : 16 : o«
ManufaBuns. — ^llie principal roanufaAure in this corner is linens There are 91 weavers in the parifli, who work every
week
ri6 Statj/Hfal /I^Mmt
week about 4000 yards, the profit arifingfipom vlucli It L. Sf* A fta^Y^p-officewateftabliihed here federal yean ago. bdie year 1788, i47fOi4 yards of doth were fiamped at this oC ficei in 17891 150,174 yards I and in 1790* 136,5)98 yards. The Unen mannfiiAured here is of a (iiperior qoalifyi ud nfed chiefly for backranit hat linings, ftc«
PeQr.^Jn a comer of the country where a fpah cEhndA try pervades every rank, there muft be, in proportion, fiv objefb of charit]^. At prefent, there are from fix to eight on the pooPs lift; and the necdSities of tfaefe are rdievcd accordbg to the judgment and difcretion Of the members of feflion. About 50 yean ago, the monthly colb&ions lor the poor were 7 s. 9 d« $ 30 years ago, they amonnted to 14 s. ; and are now L. i : 10 : o. In the year 1 782^ the ftus re- ceived, and thofe diftributed in charity, were nearly e^oaL The public fond is confiderable, and adequate to any exi- gence.
The principal diladvantage under which tUs parifli and the neighbourhood labouV, b their great diftance from pro- per focU The lower clafs are indifierently fupplied with peat or turf from mofles In the vicinity | and the reft with coal from Dundee. The expence of the carriage of coal is nearly equal to the original price: But this diladvantagp might, in a great meafure, be removed by a navigable ca- nal.
Camil. — About 30 years ago, a merdiant in this oomer, a man of uncommon fagacity and enterprife, apprehending the utility of a canal through Strathmore, found means to pro- cure a furvcy of its courfc from Perth towards Forfar, to- gether With an eftimate of the expence ^ But the plan he had
copccivedi
conceived being on too large a fcaTe, ud Smprotemente md xDanu£i£h]res bdng then in their infimcy, die defign was bid afide. The ntiUtj and praAicableiiefi of a canal between Perth and Forfar will appear from thelbBawii^remarkt; I. The whole extent of its conrfe woold be about 36 miles^ throngh a tolerablj level and fiertile conntrj. a* Its greateft elevation^ at the eaftem extremity, woold not exceed 229 feet above the level of the £». 3. A channel 15 feet broad^ and 6 dccp» with recefles at certain intervals, and 22 loda^ might be fofficient. 4. From the higher grounds many ri- vulets and fmall ftreams deicend } and by thefe it would be amply fupplied with water. 5. The neareft port towns are Perth and Dundee, diftant 12-— 18 miles. 6. From thofe places, coal, lime» foreign wood, and merchandlfe, are at prefent conveyed by land carriage. And cloth, barley, &c. are traafpprted thither in the fame way. 7. An extent of country, 35 miles long, and 6 broad, containing upwards of ao,ooo InhaUtants, would derive eflential benefit from a canal. Ufefbl and practicable, however, as the plan may ^ pear, the fituation of the Strath, with regard to the port towns already mentioned^ and the expence to be incurred, will, it is to be feared, for ever prevent fuch an undertaking from bemg carried into execution. For the fum rcquifite to the conftmAion of a canal cannot be eftimated at Jeft than JL 28,000 or L. 30,0001 nor the bnd carriage of 22 pa- riihes in its neighbourhood at more than L. 1100 ferofi* num* A veflel might convey by water 50 tons i that is, at much weight as 125 horles could carry by land from Perth or Dundee* But, unlefi the w^ter carriage were rated at 71. 6 df per ton, competent intereft could not be had for the original fum expended on the outtl ; and, if the caiv riage by water were fo highly rated, the greater part of the inbabitjints would rather convey their commodities by land.
The
^% Staii/Hcal Jam^^ l^c.
Jlhe moft. tSEt£t\B\ oocUkkI of removing this bsr would be ^fVoluntaryxontributioQ of the proprietors, who^ id (voceg (^tiqieit wouUl ,110. doub^ be, indemnified bj an incrcaie ce th$ valoiq of their qftatcs.
Jw CND OP TliS riEST VOtOMK.
1
-.r\'* ., 'vrv-^X ':^^'^.'-^ -.^:;';A'- ■v^c^/^^,;^K V,'' v',.^ .. - . . ^^ '^