s

Ml

A*

-NRLF

B 5 TDb 572

PRINTED BY AUTHORITY OF THE LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY.

STRAWBERRY GROWING

(Rer i sed Ed it ion.)

BULLETIN No. 21.

DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

— OF-

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Bulletin No. 21. on Strawberry Growing, being a revised edition of No.
17, is published by direction of the Hon. R. G. Tatlow, Minister of Agricul-
ture, for distribution amongst members of Farmers' Institutes and for
general information.

J. R. ANDERSON,

Deputy Minister of Agriculture.
Department of Agriculture,

Victoria, B. .(?., 25th April, 1901.

THE STRAWBERRY.

rriHE production of this delicious fruit has of late assumed such propor-
_i- tions and the enquiries as to its cultivation are so numerous that, in
response to the frequent requests for information, it has been considered
advisable to collect all important facts from various authorities and publish
them in belletin form.

It is needless here to enter into the merits of the strawberry. It is
considered the most wholesome of all fruits, being very easy of digestion and
never growing acid by fermentation as most other fruits do. Downing says:
" The oft-quoted instance of the great Linnaeus curing himself of gout by
partaking freely of strawberries — a proof of its great wholesorneness — is a
letter of credit which this tempting fruit has long enjoyed, for the consola-
tion of those who are looking for a bitter concealed under every sweet." It
is not, however, on account so much of its qualities for home use as its value
from a commercial standpoint, that the following pages are offered to the
public of British Columbia. It is now an ascertained fact that the finest
quality of strawberries can be and are grown in various parts of the Province.
The markets of the North-West Territories, Manitoba and the northern
mines afford such great opportunities for their profitable production that the
advice given by the Honourable E. Hofer, in a paper read before the State
Horticultural Society of Oregon, is well worth consideration. He says :
"There is no trouble to grow large strawberries. The difficulty is rather to
get varieties that are not too large — berries of medium size that average well,
are of regular shape, either round or conical pointed fruit that looks well in
the box ready for the retailer. Avoid growing large misshapen fruit. It is
important to grow a variety that does not run out small after the first pick-
ing. For the home market grow a showy berry above medium size; but for
shipment an entirely different proposition is involved. A berry may be a
perfect success for the home market and endure hauling several miles and be
entirely unfit for the express car or refrigerator for long distance shipment.
A shipping berry should be solid, have a good skin and fine texture, be of
medium size, of roundish pointed shape, and ripen several days after picking."
Clarke's seedling, as grown at Hood River, Oregon, under irrigation and a
crisp mountain atmosphere, has the ideal shipping qualities, but experience
has proved that in this Province it is not a good producer. This fact goes
to show that, just like any other fruit — apples, pears, peaches, plums, etc. —
it is not every variety which has been proved successful elsewhere that
should necessarily be a profitable one in all parts of the Province. Bearing
this in mind further on, I have given the answers of some of the successful
provincial growers as to that and other points. The aspiring grower, if he
would be successful, must bear in mind that, like growing apples and other
fruit, he can only become so by patient concentration upon the fundamental

principles and details of the business. Mr. Hofer concluded his paper as
follows : " Co-operate with your neighbours ; form a fruit-growers' union to
secure a standard of quality for your section. That is a great secret of
success, for having established a standard and maintaining it is the best
advertisement of your crop and your neighbourhood."

It has been thought advisable to select excerpts from publications which
are considered to be the best suited to our requirements and conditions, which
here follow. The experience of our own growers is given further on, and
whilst in some minor points there may be differences of opinion, the funda-
mental principles governing the growing of plants is the same the world over,
and applies to the cultivation of strawberries equally with other plants. It
will be observed that the concensus of opinion of local growers is decidedly
in favour of the Magoon; for the local market, in a minor degree, and for
transhipment, overwhelmingly so. Opinions also as to the best system of
planting are altogether in favour of that known as the hill system.

As will be seen, the recommendations regarding the distances at which
strawberries should be planted in this Province vary considerably, the closest
being rows 32 inches apart and from 10 to 12 inches in the rows ; the greatest
distance being rows 3 feet 6 inches apart and 18 inches in the rows. A good
average distance is probably rows 3 feet apart and 15 to 18 inches in the
rows. By the Central Experimental Farm Bulletin No. 5, rows 2 feet apart
and 12 to 15 inches in the rows is recommended; and in Michigan, rows 2
to 2y2 feet apart and 10 inches in the rows are the distances mentioned ; the
experience of our growers being evidently to the effect that those distances
are altogether too close to suit our conditions.

SOIL AND LOCATION.
Michigan Bulletin, No. 143.

As a rule, the lighter sandy loams should be avoided, as the crop will
be likely to suffer from lack of water, while the stiff clays can seldom be
properly worked in the spring, and if neglected are likely to bake so that
the plants suffer more from the lack of water than upon the lighter sands.
In a general way, then, it will be seen that the heavier sandy loams and the
lighter clay loams are best adapted for this crop, although good results will
be obtained upon the lighter soils, if moisture can be provided. Fair returns
are often obtained upon a soil of a mucky nature, as the water is generally
so near the surface that droughts will have no effect; but two difficulties
are frequently met with upon this class of soils, the first being the danger
of frosts while the plants are in blossom, and the other that the plants make
a rank growth and fail to form the necessary fruit buds. Where the mucky
soil is in a basin, entirely or nearly surrounded by higher land, the blossoms
seldom escape the frost, but if situated so that the cold air can drain off upon
a lake, or still lower land, the danger will be lessened.

(Central Experimental Farm Bulletin No. 5.)

Any soil that will produce a good crop of potatoes or other vegetables
will answer for strawberries. It should be well drained, either naturally or
by tile drains. A rich clay loam is preferable, and will usually give the
largest yield, but the fruit will not ripen as early as on sandy loam. Avoid, if

possible, a stiff, heavy clay. While a clay loam will give tbe best results if
properly managed, it will not prove satisfactory unless it is well drained and
the soil thoroughly prepared in the autumn previous to planting.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.

For profitable growing on a large scale, select a piece of well-drained
clay loam. This should receive a heavy coating of manure in the spring and
then be either summer-fallowed or planted with potatoes, vegetables, or some
other early crop which can be removed in time to permit of a proper prepara-
tion of the land in autumn before it becomes too wet with fall rains. A sub-
soiler should follow the common plough, one that will stir up the sub-soil to
the depth of 5 to 10 inches without bringing any of it to the top. Sub-
soiling is not absolutely necessary, but land thus loosened up will retain
moisture longer in time of drought and dry off much more rapidly after
heavy rains. The last ploughing in the fall should be thoroughly done and
suitable furrows provided, so that all surface water may run off quickly.
Early in the spring, as soon as the weather and the condition of the soil will
permit, cultivate deeply, both lengthwise and crosswise, with a two-horse
cultivator; harrow down smooth and the land will be ready for planting.
Avoid plowing a heavy soil in the spring for immediate planting.

Gravelly or sandy loam should be heavily manured in the spring, and
may be planted with vegetables. All weeds should be kept down during the
summer. Plough in the fall and again in the following spring, and harrow
thoroughly. No subsequent tillage will make up for inadequate preparation
of the soil for strawberry culture. A stiff clay loam is* more difficult to
manage. A crop of clover or other green manure turned under will help to
make the soil more friable. Coarse barnyard manure should also be used
whenever it can be applied in time to decompose and become well mixed with
the soil before planting. Tile drains in such soil require to be much
nearer together and should not be too deep, usually not more than two and
a half feet. In the autumn, before the land becomes too wet, trench it up
in high, narrow ridges ; if done with the plough, turn two furrows together,
forming a sharp ridge, as when prepared for carrots or other roots. Surface
drains should be made to take off surplus water quickly. When thus
exposed to the action of the frost, a comparatively heavy soil will work down
fine and mellow in the spring and give good results. Care must be taken,
however, never to stir such soil when wet, either with hoe, plough or
cultivator.

(Michigan Bulletin No. 163.)

To precede the strawberries, a heavy clover sod is desirable, as this can
be turned under and will not only provide a large amount of plant food, but
it will so add to the humus in the soil that there will be far less danger from
drought

Sod land is not desirable, as it is generally deficient in humus and plant
food and frequently contains insect larvae, which may prove destructive to-
the plants. Almost any of the hoed crops may be used for one year previous
to setting the plants and will leave the land in good condition for the straw-
berries, especially if it was heavily top-dressed with stable manure in the

spring, or fall previous tp planting. Few soils will give the best results
without the use of manure or fertiliser of some kind, and if the manure can
be applied to the land at least, once a year before it is to be used for the
strawberries, it will decompose and will be in a suitable condition to yield
up this plant food.

. PLANTS.

All strawberry-growers are aware that it is only the plants formed by
the runners that should be used for the new plantation ; these have yellowish
white roots, and can thus be distinguished from the other plants, which have
a long stem, at the lower end of which are black or brown roots, many of
which are dead or broken. If plants of good quality, which can be depended
upon to give large crops, are desired, those selected for planting should have
good crowns and well developed roots. As a rule, only the first plants on
the runners should be used. When the plants are allowed to layer freely, a
large number of weak sets are produced, and although these will grow they
give a small yield, and the practice, if persisted in, will result in the running
out of the variety.

The best plants can be secured from fields that have been grown but
one year, and which have not as yet fruited. The practice of obtaining
plants from old plantations, although used by many persons, is not a good
one, as continued fruiting cannot fail to sap the vitality of the plants and
the runners produced by them will not give as good results as those from
young plants. Whatever method of digging the plants is used, whether by
spade, fork or potato hook, care should be taken that they are not exposed to
the drying action of the sun or wind, and as soon as dug they should be placed
in baskets, boxes or bags, and after being moistened should be put where they
<?an be kept fresh and prevented from wilting.

PLANTING.

Where the plants are being set, equal care should bo taken that the
roots are not exposed. If the soil has been so worked that a dust mulch has
been provided, the soil that will be in contact with the roots will ordinarily
have a sufficient amount of moisture, and watering will not be necessary, but
should the soil be dry, a pint or so of water should be given each plant
before the planting has been completed; this will permit of the drawing of
.soil about it after the water has soaked in, and the baking of the soil about
the plant, which otherwise might happen, will be prevented. In setting the
plants, a spade, dibble or trowel may be used, and if the work is properly
clone there will be little difference in the result secured. When the dibble
or spade is used, a cut is made in the ground to the depth of 6 to 8 inches,
and the soil is pressed back in either direction by a side movement of the
handle; in the opening thus formed the roots are placed, care being taken
that they are not cramped and that they are so spread out that the soil can
be brought in contact with each of them. When large plants, with a thick
mat of roots, are used, this is particularly necessary, as otherwise the soil
would only be in contact with a layer of roots upon the outside of this bundle
and the inner roots will become dry and the plant will wilt. There is also
•considerable danger of loss if attention is not given to the depth at which

the plants are set; they should be at such a depth that the bud will be just
above the surface, as, if deeper than this, there will be danger that, especially
on heavy soil, the bud cannot make its way through the soil; while if not
deep enough, a part of the roots will be exposed and the plant will be very
likely to dry out. If placed perhaps a quarter or half-inch deeper than it
grows in the field, this will be sufficient to allow fo;* settling of the plant
•and will leave it in about the right position.

(Central Experimental Farm Bulletin No. 5.)

After the land has been well prepared, mark off with a corn marker, or
stretch a line to plant by. Take pains to have the rows straight ; it adds to
the appearance of the plot and time is also saved in the cultivation. Trim
off all dead leaves and old runners from the plants ; shorten the roots to three
or four inches ; keep them moist and where the wind cannot reach them
while out of the ground. When planting, make a hole deep enough to admit
the roots without doubling them up. Take the plant in the left hand, place
the crown on a level with the surrounding soil, spread the roots out fan-
shaped, fill in the soil, working it in among them, and press so firmly that
by giving a quick jerk on a leaf it will break off without moving the plant.
Only plants of the previous year's growth should be used.

Figure 1 shows the correct way of setting the plant. In Figure 2 the
roots are all in a bunch, instead of being spread out evenly as in Figure 1.
They cannot, therefore, make such a vigorous growth. When planted too
deep, as in Figure 3, they are nearly always smothered and will rot off at
the crown. In Figure 4 the crown is above the level of the surrounding
soil and, therefore, too high. When thus planted, they generally wither and
die in a few days.

Fig. 2.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 4.

8

Several different systems of planting have been practised successfully.
The method of planting should be regulated by the quantity of land to be
used, the amount of labour and manure at the disposal of the planter, the
varieties to be planted, whether for market or for a city garden, or on the
farm for family use.

HILL SYSTEM. — For a city garden, where land is usually scarce, the hill
system will generally give very satisfactory results. Plant in rows 2 feet
apart and' 12 to 15 inches apart in the row. Cut off all runners before they
have time to take root, thus enabling the plants to make strong stools or
hills by the end of the growing season. Any blossoms which appear the
same season of planting should be removed. In an unfavourable locality,
where much alternate freezing and thawing is likely to occur during the
winter and early spring, growing in hills is not always successful, as they
are more likely to heave with the frost, and the plants do not afford the same
protection to each other as when planted in matted rows.

MATTED Rows. — For this mode of culture, the rows require to be from 21/4
to 4 feet apart, and the plants 12 to 15 inches apart in the row. Cut off any
blossoms which may appear, also the first runners, until the plants have
gained sufficient vigour to send out several strong runners at once, when they
should be allowed to take root and form a matted row from 6 to 12 inches in
width. All free-growing sorts make too many plants and should have all
surplus runners cut off. The plants should not be crowded in the row.
From 3 to 6 inches apart each way will give the required protection to each
other and room to produce fruit of large size and in abundance.

CULTIVATION. •

(Michigan Bulletin No. 163.)

The ideal method of cultivating strawberries is to have the land at all
times in about the condition it would be if worked with a garden rake, and
this can only be secured when tools with narrow teeth are used. If the soil
is inclined to bake, it will often be advisable to break the crust that forms
about the plants after a rain, and during the season it should not be neglected
whenever necessary? to keep down the weeds and prevent the formation of a
crust. As a substitute for the hoe, a light potato hook is recommended, as
this can be used to work closely about the plants without danger of injuring
them, and will leave the surface in better condition than the hoe.

During the first season the plants should not be allowed to bear fruit,
and as soon as the blossom stalks are large enough to permit of its being done
readily, they should be broken or cut out. When the plants start to form
layers in large numbers early in the season, it will be advisable to remove
them. This may be done with a hoe, or with some of the cutters made
for the purpose.

(Central Experimental Farm Bulletin 2\To. 5.)

Nearly all soils are full of weed seeds. When these germinate and
appear above ground, cultivation should begin. Frequent stirring of the
soil will destroy these weeds, and during drought will cause sufficient mois-
ture to be retained in the soil to enable the plants to make a strong growth.

Never allow weeds to grow in the strawberry patch. Cultivate carefully
and thoroughly. By running the cultivator the same way every time, the
plants that are newly rooted will not be so readily disturbed. Care must be
taken not to stir the soil immediately around the plants, especially early in
the season, as this is often the cause of their making feeble growth.
(yew Zealand Bulletin No. 46.)

In order to be successful in strawberry growing, four essentials are
necessary, namely, good plants, good drainage, deep culture, and heavy
manuring. When these are properly combined the plants soon become
established, sending their roots deeply down in search of food and moisture.
Thorough preparation of the land before planting is of paramount import-
ance. Drain where necessary, then bastard-trench, or plough and subsoil-
plough, working in manure at the same time. All growers consider stable
manure the best where available, but where artificial fertilisers are applied
they must be such as will induce healthy, vigorous growth, and at the same
time are rich in potash. It may be said of the strawberry, the heavier the
dressing of manure applied the heavier the crop, and the longer the plants
will remain in a healthy bearing condition.

FERTILISING THE SOIL.
(Brother Jonathan Series, Xo. 3.)

It is of the greatest importance that the soil be rich if profitable results
are expected in strawberry growing. One of the most economical methods
of getting the soil in good condition is by means of growing and turning
under green leguminous crops, crops of the pea, bean and clover family. This
means that the grower must begin the preparation of his land several seasons
before the berries are to be grown. It is cheaper to get the soil rich and also
mellow by this means than by the exclusive use of fertilisers of any other kind.

Clover is one of the best plants to grow for this purpose in soils where
a good stand of clover can be secured. It should be allowed to occupy the
ground two years and then the stubble should be turned under. The clover
roots deeply, and thereby mellows the soil and airs it out to a good depth.
It also brings up fertilisers from lower down than most field crops grow.
Much of this fertility is left near the surface of the soil when the stubble is
turned under. The greatest value of the clover, however, lies in its ability
to get its nitrogen from the air. Nitrogen is the most expensive fertilising
element to secure, if purchased as a fertiliser, and it is the most difficult to
hold in the soil. The clover gets it free from the air and adds it to the soil
when its roots and stubble are ploughed.

Where clover will not do well, or where one can wait only one season to
set the soil ready, some other crop of the same family, which will finish its
growth in a year, may be used. Toward the south the cow pea is one of the
best. This plant will thrive on soil so worn that a stand of clover cannot be
secured. It gets its nitrogen from the air the same as clover and it also
mellows the soil, leaving it in fine condition to be worked. In the north the
Canada field pea is sometimes used. Peas will enrich the soil more if the
whole crop is turned under after it has fully gotten its growth. It is some-
times wise, however, to cut the crop for hay or pasture it and turn under
only the stubble.

10

Barnyard manure is one of the best fertilisers, where it can be obtained
in sufficient quantity. It is a complete fertiliser, supplying all the necessary
elements of plant growth. Aside from this, it renders the soil mellow and
spongy, making it more easily worked and less subject to injury from drought.
Manure may be applied for strawberries in large quantities where it can be
had. Twenty to fifty tons to the acre is none too much for ordinary soils.

Where the soil is rich but heavy and subject to bake, it may be mellowed
by turning, under other green crops. Rye or winter wheat are good. They
may be sown in the fall and turned under in the spring, after they have made
considerable growth. Grass sod ploughed under and allowed to rot usually
leaves the ground in good condition for strawberries.

Wherever sod of any kind or green crops are turned under, the soil
usually should be cultivated for a season or two to hoed crops before planting
to strawberries, in order to rid the field of the white grub, one of the serious
insect pests of the strawberry. The white grub usually infests soddy soil,
but disappears when the soil is given clean cultivation for a season or two.

Wood ashes, when obtainable, are a good fertiliser for strawberries.
They contain large quantities of potash, one of the essential forms of plant
food required by the strawberry. They should be sowed thinly over the land
and harrowed in while the soil is being prepared for setting the plants.
They may also be applied to the old bed at the time it is being renewed and
worked in between the rows.

On thin soils commercial fertilisers are sometimes used. The three
principal plant food ingredients needed are nitrogen, phosphoric acid and
potash. The amount of each of these which should be applied differs in
different soils. Some soils may lack only one of these essential ingredients ;
some may lack two of them. If the soil is generally poor, it is likely to lack
all three. The safest way to determine which to apply is to try it on each
soil. The chief source of nitrogen in commercial fertilisers is nitrate of soda
and sulphate of ammonia. Either of these may be applied at the rate of from
fifty to one hundred pounds per acre. Potash is secured In sulphate of
potash, muriate of potash or kainit. The two former may be applied at the
rate of fifty to one hundred pounds per acre, and the latter in much larger
quantity. Phosphoric acid is usually purchased in the form of acid phosphate
or in bone meal or dissolved bone. Two hundred pounds of either of these
may usually be applied per acre.

The following is a copy of the questions which were sent out to some of
the provincial growers: —

Will you be good enough to give mo your opinion as to the best variety
of strawberry to cultivate—

(a.) For home use to ensure a succession?
(&.) „ local market?
(c.) „ shipping?

What time of the year do you recommend for planting?
What system do you recommend — matted row. or hill system?
What method of cultivation do you recommend Y

11

Do you recommend mulching? If so, at what seasolf^^Vith whr.t
material, and method?

The gist of the answers here follows: —

George It. L'awes, Enderby: Have had no experience with berries ''or
home use or local market. The Magoon and Campbell, with me, bfiar che
largest number of big berries and are the best for shipping. I have tried
perhaps fifty other varieties and am hoeing them all out. The Campbell
bears a light crop of grand berries of large size and quality, late to vory late.

A. E. Gale, Victoria : I find the Improved Sharpless does best with me,
either for home use or local market, but for shipping, the Magoon is the best
we have tried so far. We plant in the fall, in October, if the ground is well
drained, or in the spring, in April, as soon as the ground is dry chough to
work. We plant in rows 3 feet apart and 18 inches apart in the row. Keep
all runners cut off and pick off all bloom from spring planting. We keep
horse cultivator going at frequent intervals to destroy weeds and retain
moisture. Yes, I certainly recommend mulching during the fruiting sen son ;
any kind of straw will do, but I prefer clean oat straw. We always put it
on from three to ten days before the first berries are ripe. With an average
crop the local market is entirely overdone. It would not be wise to encourage
planting anything but shipping varieties.

George E very-Clayton, Burnaby : Your first question re strawberry
culture is dependant entirely on local conditions of climate and soil, and can
only be answered by a practical test, but should recommend (a) Jocunda or
Magoon, (6) Magoon, (c) Clarke's Seedling or Paxton. Have not as yet
found a strawberry appreciably earlier than the Jocunda that was worth
cultivating. I recommend planting during April, early in the month if
season permits. I prefer the hill system of cultivation, planting in ro\vs 3
feet apart, plants 15 inches apart (at least) in row. Keep all blossoms and
runners cut off first year and cultivate with horse often enough to keep down
weeds and prevent soil packing. Have had no experience of mulching,
having excellent results without.

Andrew Strachau, Victoria : As to my opinion of thu best varieties of
strawberries and methods of culture for this locality, I may say that, after
experimenting with many varieties, the most suitable for this locality are:
(«.) For home use, the Improved Sharpless; (&.) For local market, Improved
Sharpless. It gives a large crop of berries of fine quality and carries its
size well through the season. (c.) Shipping; so far the Magoon has proved
the most productive of the varieties tested and also given the best satisfaction
in distant markets, (d.) The Paxton has also been shipped this year with
fairly satisfactory results, but, in my opinion, it is more suited for the local
market. I have had the best results from planting in the spring, as early as
the ground is in suitable condition, in rows 3 feet apart and plants 18 inches
apart in the row. Give clean cultivation and frequent, with a view to con-
servation of moisture, especially after rain, to prevent the surface getting
caked. I have not experimented with mulching further than straw between
rows before picking commences, to keep the berries clean ; this I put on
about two weeks before picking commences, and carefully place under fruit
and between rows.

12

J. C. Metcalfe, Hammond: In -reply to yours re inquiry as to straw-
berries, may say that I recommend Excelsior, Warfield, Magoon, for home
use and local market, and Wilson for shipping. I recommend spring for
planting, narrow hedge row for light soils and varieties that do not make
runners abundantly; hill system for heavy soil and varieties that make
runners abundantly; shallow, frequent and clean cultivation up to within
two weeks of picking fruit. Yes, I recommend mulching in November with
first frost, with meadow hay cut early, or straw. Mulch should be taken off
as early in spring as possible; then put back under the plants and between
rows after last cultivation. '

W. C. Grant, Gordon Head: After ten years' experimental work with
strawberries and covering some 2oO varieties, we have discarded all except
Sharpless for local market and Magoon for shipping. If confined to one
variety, would select Magoon ; it is the variety that is to bring fame yet
unknown to Southern Vancouver Island growers. Under proper conditions
of handling, this variety will stand up in perfect condition for a period of
nine to ten days; it far excels the Clarke's Seedling or the famous Hood
River berry, as tested here. Fall planting has been tried two different
seasons, with exactly the same results. We have come to the conclusion,
speaking from a commercial standpoint, fall planting is not n paying propo-
sition. Spring planting has always given satisfactory results. The hill
system is the only practical method of growing strawberries successfully in
our climate, owing to the dense growth of weeds during the winter months.
By following the hill system we can hoe during January and February when
weeds are starting out rapidly, especially from the 15th February to the 1st
March. We plant rows 3 ft. 6 in. apart, plants stand in row 1 ft. 6 in.
apart. Cultivate with 12-tooth Planet Junior horse cultivator and pulveriser
combined, running the cultivator every week to ten days where the land is in
condition up to the time of putting on the mulch, running the cultivator from
one inch to one and one-half inches deep. After crop is harvested, run culti-
vator once or twice full depth to break up the crust that has been formed by
the repeated tramping of the pickers. Mulch with oat or wheat straw when
the first berries are about the size of peas; if done at this time all the fruit
stems are standing up and the straw can be spread between the plants and no
lifting of fruit stems is necessary. Pick the beds daily, removing all berries
that show signs of colour. When the bed is properly picked, every remaining
berry is green; if a trace of colour is showing, the work is not thoroughly
done, and under good weather conditions any berry left on the vines with
slight colour will be over-ripe by next picking. By this method the berries
will reach the distant markets in prime condition and will colour up thor-
oughly, provided care has been exercised in picking and cooling the fruit off,
etc. Cooling the fruit is of great importance, and must be attended to if
satisfactory results are to follow. Place in a cool place over-night one crate
deep with 2x4 scantling below each end of crates, and turn lid of crate with
cleats down on top of crate; in the morning nail the tops on crate, and
deliver for shipping early before the heat of the day has advanced. If
handled this way and the berries kept in a cool place constantly, Magoons will
be in good condition nine days from time of picking.

13

W. T. Hayhurst, Armstrong: As to the best variety of strawberry to
cultivate, I give the following as my experience: Clyde is the earliest with
me; it is a heavy cropper, good for home use and local market, but a poor
shipper. Magoon comes next ; it is a fine berry, either for home use or local
market, or for shipping, a good cropper, the best all-round berry with me.
Clarke's Seedling is good for home use, local market, a splendid shipper; it is
not as rank a grower as Magoon and not quite so productive, but a very
attractive berry. Nick Ohnier is a perfect berry and productive, but the
plants seem to kill out very bad with me. About one-third died the first
winter. I have several other varieties growing here now. Some I have not
tested enough to -give any opinion on ; the ones I have mentioned are the best
I have tested so far. I have had very good success planting in October ; the
plants get rooted in the fall and make far better growth during the following
summer. They should not be allowed to bear fruit the first summer. I like
the hill system the best; the plants will bear two more good crops of fruit
than by the matted row system. Besides, I think there are quite a lot of
berries destroyed by the pickers when they are matted. I find that cultivating
them thoroughly in spring until they come in blossom is the best plan ; also as
soon as the crop is off until fall, with horse cultivator. I do not think straw-
berries should be grown here without mulching ; the weather is showery dur-
ing the fruiting season, and if they are not mulched the berries are spoilt by
sand. I think that wheat straw cut with a chaff cutter makes the best mulch :
as it does not interfere with cultivaion after the crop is harvested. Mulching
can be clone when they are coming into blossom. It is easily done with cut
straw. Fill a large basket and scatter along the plants ; the chaff will fall in
and around the plants throughly. I do not like the mowing off the plants and
burning them. It might be a good plan in some localities, but I think the
sun is too hot here for that. When the tops of the plants are mowed off the
sun is too hot for the exposed roots, and seems to kill a good many of them.

Thos. A. Brydon, Victoria : The Magoon is the berry that I am growing
almost exclusively, and especially for shipping. It is a number one berry. I
recommend spring-time, as early as the ground can be got in good condition,
for planting. The hill system I recommend. Mulching should be done just
before the fruit begins to ripen, covering the whole ground and under leaves
of the plants with straw, but before the mulch is placed be sure the ground
is well cultivated and all weeds removed round the plants. Clean cultivation
is an absolute necessity to success.

W. H. Lewis, Burnaby : I grow nothing but the Magoon now. I used
to try and grow berries to give a succession, but gave it up. Late frosts
killed the bloom on early varieties most of the time. Mitchel's Early was
the best I ever tried for early crop and Gandy for late, but Gandy is a poor
cropper. This market demands a large berry and Magoon fills the bill as
well as any; it is a good cropper and fairly good shipper. I advise planting
as early in the spring as it is possible to get the ground in good shape.
Never plant in the fall. Hill system, not over 10 or 12 inches apart by
about 32-inch rows. I used to plant a great deal farther apart, both ways,
but am convinced it is a waste of ground. Keep clean and cultivate with
Planet Jr. cultivator about once a week from early spring until blossoms

14

appear, has been my rule heretofore, but the best crop of berries I ever grew
were mulched in the fall aud taken off in the spring, when I cultivated as
before mentioned. I decided two years ago that I would never grow another
crop of berries without fall mulching, because the plants invariably freeze
with the frost to a greater or less extent and damage the plants accordingly.
However, I never carried the resolution out and am sorry for it, because if I
had done so I am satisfied I would have had a bumper crop this year, instead
of nearly a failure from freezing of the plants last winter.* There is not much
choice of material ; straw is about the only material available, but the straw
we get here carries a great many weed seeds, especially thistles. If I was to
grow niy own straw it would be rye. I shall leave straw on my two acres all
next winter. I never had any success with pistillate varieties. Have tried
several. Seem better adapted to dry climate. They give lots of bloom, but
wet or damp weather seems to prevent pollination of the blossoms and they
drop off. I should never burn off the straw on a patch of berries as advised
by some. Might possibly do on bottom or wet land, but it does harm on high,
dry land to the plants ; and I do not believe in burning anything I can put in
the ground in the shape of humus. It is my belief that good berry land has
been run out in this district by this method of mowing and burning the tops
and straw, thereby robbing the soil of all the humus. Besides, the method
is of no value to eradicate the strawberry weevil, as proved by myself and
others that I have watched. By cultivation and rotation with potatoes I
have routed the weevil off my place. I think mention of the soil is necessary
to be of any information to others. Mine is high land, fairly good s<md
loam, with but little clay. I have been growing berries 12 years.

Samuel Smith, Armstrong : I think the Magoon is the best for shipping.
For other uses I am not posted. I think the spring is the best time to plant,
and I think the hill system is the best. I cultivate, with a one-horse culti-
vator. I would certainly recommend mulching ; short straw seems to me
the best material.

L. Claude Hill, Burnaby: I find that location has a great deal to do
with success in strawberry culture. Varieties that have done well with
growers in Hammond and Haney have not been a success with us. It has
taken us years of experiment to find plants suitable to this location and soil.
For home use we like Sharpless and Jocunda ; for local market, Magoon and
Sharpless. We have not shipped many berries, but find that Magoon ships
fairly well. The hill system suits this location, as we cater to the local trade
and want large, fine-looking fruit. For cultivation we use Planet Junior
horse cultivator, both 5 and 13-tooth kinds; rows 3 feet apart and plants 15
inches in the rows. All runners and blossoms are cut off the young plants
the first season. Mulching is put down just before the fruit forms and is
only used to keep the berries clean. We do not use any winter mulch. We
find two tons of straw to the acre about right. After the crops are picked
the plants are all cut down and the straw fired, leaving the patch after the
burning without a green leaf and with very few weeds. The fire also destroys
leaf blight and injurious insects. Cultivation then commences again. We
use baled straw for mulching, which has to be put down by hand to ensure

*1904.

15

getting it well round the plants and under the fruit. We are always wanting
new varieties and would be glad to get any samples that are being tried at
the Experimental Farms. I might mention that Magoons and Sharpless
have been grown here on high land, alder bottom and peat soil, with very,
good results.

A wholesale dealer in Victoria gives the following as his experience : — '•
" The Magoon is far and away the best all-round strawberry. Clarke's
Seedling is equally good, better in some respects, but it is a poor cropper.
It is the berry grown at Hood River, Oregon. Sharpless is altogether con-
demned. It is a fine large berry, but does not hold up at all."

MOISTUKE AND IRRIGATION.

(Michigan Bulletin No. 163.)

There are few locations where strawberries are not each year more or
less injured by lack of moisture in the soil, and where water can be readily
secured for irrigating purposes the expense of applying it will be well repaid.
Oftentimes a single application made when the fruit is about one-half grown
will double the yield, and occasionally a crop will be saved which would be
otherwise lost. Although its use is of less value during the first season's
growth, it will often be found desirable, when the weather is dry, to make
an application in order to promote the growth of the plants.

SUB-IRRIGATION. — By placing a line of drain-tile below the surface, a
strip from 10 to 20 feet can be watered. If it be left permanently, the line
should at least be below the reach of the plow ; and in case the laud requires
underdraining, the tiles may be so arranged as to answer for both purposes.
The depth should be then not less than 2y2 feet, and the tiles should be laid
as nearly level as possible, and yet give a fall towards the outlet. When
required for irrigation, the lower end of the tile can be closed and the drains
flooded from the highest point. If merely needed for the strawberry crop, a
temporary system of tiles may be laid. If put in before the plants are set,
they should be covered at least 4 or 5 inches to be below the reach of the
cultivator, but oftentimes the necessity is not recognised until about the time
the fruit is ripening, and then it will be sufficient if the tiles are barely
covered. Care should be taken to have the lines of the tile practically level
for lengths of less than 100 feet, and beyond this the slope should be very
slight. Where the tiles have a greater slope the water rushes to the lower
end and breaks through to the surface. When properly arranged, the water
should enter the tile only as fast as it soaks through the joints. In this way
the tiles will be kept full and the water will be very equally distributed
throughout the length of the tiles. While smaller or larger sizes might be
used, a 3-inch common drain tile will give the best results. As most tiles
are slightly curved in burning, by placing them with their rounded sides
uppermost, a small crack will be left on the under side of each joint, and if
care is taken that these openings are of about the same size, the water will
be very evenly distributed. When the plants are set in narrow beds, a single
line of tile along the centre will suffice, but the best results will be secured
if the lines are independent, and each is filled from the highest point. A
very small stream of water through a garden hose will supply a line 100 to

16

200 feet in length, and after having adjusted the flow, it will require no
attention until the ground has been thoroughly wet. As the water will be
applied beneath the surface, there will be much less loss from evaporation
than when furrows are used, and, consequently, it will be more economical
of water, and will permit the covering of a considerable area through a small
supply pipe with but little attention. Under the same conditions, the use
of furrows would not give nearly as even distribution and would require
constant attention.

FROST.

(Neiv York Experimental Station Bulletin No. 127-128.)
Although frost is continually showing freaks, the injury that is done to
blossoms can be greatly lessened if proper care is taken to secure a location
with thorough air drainage, which can be best obtained on an elevated
rolling site. While this is quite essential in the interior, less attention need
be paid to it near the lake shores and along the rivers. When air is well
charged with vapour the injury from frost is greatly reduced, and where
water is available a crop often can be saved, which would otherwise be
destroyed, by sprinkling the plants just at night, or, better yet, very early in
the morning, when the temperature drops to 32 degrees. With a supply of
hose and an ordinary lawn sprinkler a considerable area can be covered.

POLLINATION.

When strawberries are grown in matted rows, each third row should be
planted to a staminate, or perfect-flowered variety, to provide for pollination
of the flowers, care being taken to plant near together varietites which bloom
at the same time. This plan of setting the perfect flowered and pistillate, or
imperfect flowered varieties, in separate rows, rather than distributing the
staminate plants in the rows of pistillate varieties, is preferred, as it facili-
tates separate picking and marketing of the varieties — a very important
factor in securing ready market and good prices for the berries.

(Central Experimental Farm Bulletin No. 5.)

Strawberry blossoms are divided into classes, 1st, bi-sexual or perfect.
These contain stamens or male organs and pistils or female organs, as in
Figure 5, hence are called perfect or bi-sexual. Second, pistillate or imper-
fect, which contain pistils only, or female organs, as in Figure 6. Pistillate

Fig. 5. Fig. 6.

varieties usually yield the largest crops of fruit when properly fertilised.
This may be done by planting one or two more rows of a perfect-flowering
sort to every four or five rows of those with imperfect blossoms.

17

PICKING AND PACKING.

There could be volumes written on this one question of picking, but I
will touch it lightly. Have everything ready before time to commence
picking. Don't think of hauling your berries in a waggon without springs.
Use no dirty packages to ship in. Have your crates and trays, or carriers,
ready. Make those during the winter while you are resting. Don't allow
more than four boxes to be taken out in a tray, as it keeps berries exposed
too long to the hot sun. Try to grade berries in the field, if they need
grading. Every time you touch a berry you damage it. Fill boxes well
when packing in crates. Pick every day that is fit after the season is fairly
started; if you wait one day and it rains the next, you may not get your
field cleaned up well again during the season, and will always have more or
less soft berries.

Finally, in reference to strawberry-growing, as there is considerable
labour and expense attached to the work, it should be the aim of the grower
to produce heavy crops from a limited area. If more attention at the first
were given to properly preparing the land before planting, more care bestowed
in the cultivation of healthy, virorous plants, free from disease, and a liberal
supply of fertilisers afterwards used, more varieties and better strawberries
could be grown, much heavier crops produced, the season prolonged, and the
demand increased.

Like most other fruit, the varieties that' have been sent out from time
to time are legion; still, those suited for profiable culture are limited in
number.

The following information is- supplied by Mr. A. E. Gale and Mr. Thos.
A. Brydon, growers in Victoria District : —

" The first thing one requires to get fixed in his mind is that the less
the berries are handled the better for them; they should be nipped (not
pulled) with the thumb or finger nail, leaving about half an inch of the stem
on the berry. Do not hold the berries in the hand until it is full, but put
each berry in the box as soon as it is picked, for the heat of the hand quickly
spoils its freshness and makes the berries soft. In order that the fruit may
reach the market in the best condition, it should be taken in out of the hot
sun as soon as possible and placed in a cellar or other cool place for a few
hours before being shipped. Fruit that is thoroughly cooled will hold up
at least two days longer. Never pick whilst the berries are wet with dew or
rain.

" The great demand that has sprung up during the last few years for
shipping berries, and the increased acreage that has been planted, renders it
imperative that every grower should pick as much as possible for shipping;
it is absolutely necessary to do so to avoid a glut on the local market. For
shiping to the North-West the berries must be picked as soon as they show
light red on one side; if they show colour all over they are too ripe for
shipping, and must be sold on the local market, regardless of price.

" The boxes are regulated by a Dominion Government law in two sizes,
viz., 4-5ths of quart and 2-5ths of quart, the former being 2 inches deep and
r>i/4 inches square, and holds about 1 It). 2 oz., the fruit being sold by measure,
not by weight. The crate holds 24 boxes of the larger size, and can be pur-

18

chased from local box manufacturers at about 25 cents, complete with boxes.

" The veneer for making the boxes is manufactured exclusively by the
B. C. Manufacturing Co., New Westminster, B. C., and costs this year $3.25
per M. in the K. D. (that is not made up) f. o. b., New Westminster. The
crates can be bought for 9% cents each in the K. D."

DISEASES.
(Michigan Bulletin No. 163.)

STRAWBERRY LEAF BLIGHT (Sphoerella fragarioe — Sace). — While subject
to the attack of but few diseases, nearly all varieties of strawberries are
more or less injured by the fungous disease commonly known as strawberry
rust or leaf blight. This attacks not only the leaves, but the fruit stalks and
the calyx, or husk, about the berries, and the injury is then so severe that the
crop fails to ripen. It appears first as a purplish spot upon the leaves, but
as this enlarges the centre becomes brown and finally white. If these spots
are numerous upon the leaves, the tissue finally dries out and the entire leaf
will be destroyed. The injury is even more severe when upon the fruit stems,
as a very small spot will be sufficient to girdle them, and the shrivelling and
drying of the fruit will follow.

There is a marked difference in the susceptibility of the different
varieties to attack by this disease, and in selecting varieties for planting
those that are least subject to attack should be chosen. Some of the kinds
that when free from disease are very productive, become almost worthless
when the conditions favour the development of the fungus. When grown
under conditions that favour a normal growth, and when they are not
subjected to a check, even the kinds that are most subject to injury
frequently escape. Experiments have frequently shown that all varieties
can be kept practically free from the attack of this disease if properly
sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. In setting out a new plantation, care
should be taken to obtain plants that are practically free from disease, and
all leaves that show signs of an attack should be removed and burned. As
there may be spores of the disease upon the remaining leaves, it will be well
to dip the plants into Bordeaux mixture, and after they have been set in the
field, after a week or ten days, they should receive a spraying with the same
material. One or two other applications at intervals of two weeks will also
be advisable, and still another should be made about the 1st of August, in
case diseased leaves can be found at that time. The following spring the
plants should be sprayed as soon as growth has started, and a second applica-
tion should be made after the flower buds have formed, but before they open.
As noted above, the use of Bordeaux mixture at this time will have a marked
effect against the strawberry weevil, especially if Paris green is added. This
treatment will ordinarily carry through the varieties that are most subject
to the attack of leaf blight without serious injury- If the plantation is to
be kept for another year, it will be well to burn it over, and to spray as soon
as the new leaves have formed.

(Central Experimental Farm Bulletin 21.)

LKAF RI.KIIIT RUST. — The purplish or reddish-brown spots which appear
on th<> loaves of strawberry plants during the growing season and in greatest

19

abundance just after midsummer, are the evidence of the presence of the
above injurious fungous disease. The spots, at first small and few in number,
increase in size till the entire leaf is involved, and the foliage shows the effect
of a parasite's presence by shrivelling and withering. This loss of foliage
is a very serious matter, often coming early enough to materially lessen the
crop, and taking place at a time when the plant should be making new
runners for the next rear. The fungus is carried over winter by means of
spores and by means of mycelium (representing the vegetative portion of
the parasite) contained within the leaves. Some varieties are affected much
more than others. It has been generally noted that strawberries are affected
to a greater extent on sandy soil than on clay loam.

TREATMENT. — Bordeaux mixture prevents this disease, and on planta-
tions where the single crop system is followed this is the most practical and
effective remedy. When two crops are taken from the plantation, mowing
and burning the leaves on the rows immediately after the season of berry
picking closes, is the practice in some localities.

MILDEW (Sphaerotheca Castagnei — Len.). — In dry seasons this fungus,
which causes the leaves to curl, covering them with a thin, cobweb-like
coating, lessens the crop very materially. Like gooseberry and grape mildew,
the fruit is also attacked.

Fig 7.

20

REMEDIES. — If Bordeaux mixture is used in early spring as a rust pre-
ventive, this disease will also be checked. If it appears to an injurious
extent when the berries are ripening, flour of sulphur may be used advan-
tageously. When this is scattered between the plants, the fumes given off
under the action of the sun's rays have a preventive action upon the growth
of the fungus.

INSECT PESTS.

BLACK VINE WEEVIL (Otiorlii/iicluix xiilcatus — Fab.). — This beetle is
probably the most destructive insect pest, both in its larval and perfect
stages, on strawberries that we have in British Columbia. The mature insect
is brownish-black, about half an inch in length, with the long snout character-
istic of all weevils. The larva is a small white grub which attacks the crown
of the roots and so kills the plant. Mr. Thos. Cunningham, Inspector of
Fruit Pests, recommends burning off the tops of the plants after the crop has
been gathered. This has the effect of destroying the beetles, which shelter
themselves amongst the leaves, and which they also attack. Dr. Fletcher
says : " The only remedy which can be suggested for this beetle as yet is the
planting of strawberries on new ground, and frequent renewal of beds, the
worst injuries being done to the old plants." Mr. W. T. Macoun, the Horti-
culturist of the Central Experimental Farm, considers the single crop method
of growing strawberries the one which pays best, the fruit being finer and
the land being kept clean much more easily. Some varieties which do not
make runners freely might be left for two years.

WESTERN TEN-LINED JUNE BUG (Polyi)lujUa dcccinlincata). — The larva
of this insect, which is a large white grub, is a bad pest on many plants,
amongst which are strawberries. In its larval stage it attacks the roots of
plants, very soon killing them, by stripping off the bark from the woody plants
and biting off the root below the crown of strawberries and such plants.

DESCRIPTION. — The perfect beetle, like its prototype the May Bug or
June Bug or Dor Bug of the East (Lachnosterna f-uscu — Frohl), has a dis-
agreeable habit of coming through open windows and buzzing about, knocking
themselves against walls, ceilings and sometimes against one's face, which it
strikes with considerable force. The beetle is about one inch and a quarter
long, with a thick round body half an inch or more in diameter, of a light
brown colour, with eight white longitudinal stripes running the whole length
of the wing covers and two short ones ; the breast is covered with a brownish
down, and the abdomen has three transverse stripes. The larva is about an
inch and a half long, with a thick yellowish-white body and brown head.

As in the case of the Black Vine Weevil, a frequent change of the beds
is to be recommended, as being the most efficacious remedy. It also resembles
the last-named insect in its injurious habit, both in the larval and perfect
stages. Naturally, on account of the nocturnal feeding habit of the beetle
and the underground habits of the larva, it is a difficult insect to control.
Referring to the June Bug, Saunders says: —

" It is very difficult to reach the larvae underground with any remedy
other than digging for them and destroying them. Hogs are very fond of
them, and when turned into places where grubs are abundant will root up the

21

ground and devour them in immense quantities. They are likewise eaten by
domestic fowls and insectivorous birds ; crows, especially, are so partial to
them that they will be often seen following the plough, so as to pick out these
choice morsels from the freshly turned furrow. Trees infested with the beetles
should be shaken early in the morning, when the insects will fall and may be
collected on sheets and killed by being thrown into scalding water. Besides
the cherry and plum, these insects feed on the Lombardy poplar and the oaks
On account of time the larva takes to nature, the beetles are not often
abundant during two successive seasons."
Treat, another authority says : —

" As many insects are not injurious in their perfect form, the June Bug
has not generally been regarded as harmful. As it is a destructive feeder in
its beetle state, it should be destroyed, not only for the mischief it may do
as a beetle, but for the prevention of its progeny. Those that enter the

house should be caught and killed.
In each locality the insect is usually
more numerous than at other times
once in three years. When the trees
in which they harbour are discovered,
large numbers may be destroyed by
placing sheets beneath the trees, and
in early morning, when they are tor-
pid, the beetles may be shaken from
the trees, gathered and destroyed.
As it is only in the perfect state that
any effective war can be waged
against the white grub, every method
should be employed to kill as many
beetles as possible. That which
promises to be most effective is to

Fig. 8.

take advantage of the fact that they are attracted by light and to set tt-aps
for them. A simple form is to place a lamp in a tub, made by sawing a
barrel in half, in the bottom of which is a few inches of water. Several
lanterns have been specially devised which, by throwing a strong light, will
attract the beetle. That shown in the illustration (Fig. 8.) is a French
design, modified by a distinguished American horticulturist. It consists of
a square glass lantern, at each side of which is a flaring tin reflector. At
the lower side of each reflector, near the glass, is a longitudinal opening.
The lantern is set upon a cask or tub in which there is some water. The
insects, attracted by the light, fly towards it, and striking the glass, fall
downwards through the opening into the water. This has been found very
effective. It would be well, no doubt, to place upon the water a little kero-
sene, just a thin film, enough to cover each insect as it fell in."

The opinions given by the correspondents whose replies are published in
the preceding pages, it may be remarked, whilst they differ slightly in some
minor details, in the main agree very closely, except in the question of
burning the tops of the strawberries after the crop has been taken off. On

22

this point it will be observed that opposite opinions are expressed. It has
unquestionably answered in some cases, and where it can be done with safety
to the plants, there is no doubt but that many injurious insects, as well as
germs of diseases are destroyed. Mr. W. A. Dashwood-Jones, New West-
minster, who is a keen observer, writing on the subject of the strawberry
weevil, says : — " I am still sure that fire is the best preventive ; that is to
say, burning up all the weeds and rubbish around the strawberry rows.
including the foliage, after the crop is picked." It wrould seem that in locali-
ties where the sun does not exercise too much influence, the burning of the
tops is beneficial; and on the other hand, in some localities, during periods
of intense heat and drought, care at least should be exercised in the practice,
if not altogether avoided.

J. R. ANDERSON,

Deputy Minister of Agriculture.

Department of Agriculture,

Victoria, B. C., April 25th, 1907.

VICTORIA, B. C. :

Printed by RICHARD WOLFKNDBN, I.S.O., V.D., Printer to the King's Most Excellen M

1907.

IV4259475

SI4-J

THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY