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B. im ‘ ‘on 200d vs "SNVIGNI FO LINAWdAVONYA NV OL LISTIA : I NES IIIT NN ror Peru ESS CLEA ISDS MGM SOF INED YS > A ery, ee i ree ; 4 : oe LINO AN — g ee : Cat shy dr a ie 4 i ets. ee Sree =. 55 : Ae, i USO) ae ; AE. ees i J peri te “ony ae ROR RA es, MO —~ EIE TSSaay DANG ¢ WL LOO rh asa th he n 4s eis x ae ae ue © Fees LELELIDS SES STRELA EA Ney Jet ei ce Sees Ue age JF # SST. nt a é ; : 4 Lig : ES ara Pel a ~ FS SOMMER ye See aie <3. > < : SOS: > GN = ® = ; ROME th “oy, a , | i i [ ii | aw) THE SUBSTANCE OF A JOURNAL DURING A RESIDENCE AT THE RED RIVER: COLONY BRITISH NORTH AMERICA: AND FREQUENT EXCURSIONS AMONG THE NORTH WEST AMERICAN INDIANS, -IN THE YEARS 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823. SECOND EDITION, ~.. ENLARGED WITH A JOURNAL OF A MISSION TO THE INDIANS OF NEW BRUNSWICK, AND NOVA SCOTIA, AND THE MOHAWKS ON THE ..GRAND RIVER, UPPER CANADA._ JOHN WEST, A.M LATE CHAPLAIN TO THE HON. THE HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY. PUBLISHED BY L. B. SEELEY AND SON, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXXVII. 1g 277 po ? f [Oe3 hy F IDF SON HRB TO THE REV. HENRY BUDD, M.A. CHAPLAIN TO BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL, MINISTER OCF BRIDEWELL PRECINCT, AND RECTOR OF WHITE ROOTHING, ESSEX, AS A TESTIMONY OF GRATITUDE FOR HIS KINDNESS AND FRIENDSHIP, AND OF HIGH ESTEEM FOR HIS UNWEARIED EXERTIONS IN EVERY CAUSE OF BENEVOLENCE AND ENLIGHTENED ENDEAVOUR TO PROMOTE THE BEST INTERESTS OF MAN, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR, PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. We live in a day when the most distant parts of the earth are opening as the sphere . of Missionary labours. The state of the heathen world is becoming better known, and the sympathy of British Christians has been awakened, in zealous endeavours to evangelize and soothe its sorrows. In these encouraging signs of the times, the Author is mmduced to give the following pages to the public, from having traversed some of the dreary wilds of North America, and felt deeply interested in the religious instruction and amelioration of the condition of the natives. They are wandering, in unnumbered tribes, through vast wildernesses, where generation after gene- vili PREFACE. ration have passed away, in gross ignorance and almost brutal degradation. Should any information he is enabled to give excite a further Christian sympathy, and more active benevolence in their behalf, it will truly rejoice his heart: and his prayer to God, 1s, that the Aborigines of a British territory, may not remain as outcasts from British Missionary ~ exertions; but may be raised through their instrumentality, to what they are capable of enjoying, the advantages of civilized and social life, with the blessings of Christianity. September, 1824. Lis! PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. THE many encouraging testimonies which the Author met with in the publication of a Journal of his Travels among the North West Ameri- ean Indians, during the years 1820-1-2 and 3, as Chaplain to the Hon. Hudson’s Bay Company, induce him to lay before the Public a Second Edition of that Publication, with an addi- tional Journal of a Mission to the Indians of the British Provinces of New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia, and the Mohawks on the Ouse or Grand River, Upper Canada, during the years 1825 and 1826. The Author has written openly, candidly, from the heart, and under a weight of respon- sibility, in making known the destitute state of a PREFACE. thousands not only among the Aborigines of “The North Country,” but also of European Settlersin the more remote parts of the aforesaid British Provinces, who have no one to proclaim to them the divine message of mercy, and admi- nister to them in the dry and barren wilderness the cup of salvation. In testifying of what he has seen and known in fact and observation, he can truly say that his sole and simple object has been to do good in exciting a further Christian sympathy, and a more active exertion in the supply of their spiritual wants. Commerce has traversed the desert, and Colonies have been planted in “the waste places,” which are preparing a way, through Divine Providence, for the conversion of “the uttermost parts of the earth.” It challenges therefore a deep consideration, whether in holding of Provinces, and widely extensive territories, efforts are made to diffuse Scriptural light and knowledge correspondent with the means possessed; and whether Missionaries are going forth from among us under a right PREFACE. x1 impulse, labouring in their arduous engage- ments, in simplicity of faith, and with earnest piety for the furtherance of the Redeemer’s kingdom. Enlightened by the Divine Spirit, may numbers give themselves to this conse- crated work, and may the Gospel be propagated “not in word only but also in power,” through- out the destitute Settlements, and among our Red Brethren in the wilderness, who are “ fast melting away,” to use their own beautiful metaphor, “like snow before the sun,” as the whites advance, and colonize their native soil. The Author has added his remarks upon the climate, country, and population, which fell under his own immediate observation, which he trusts (with the map prefixed to this Edition) will afford accurate information, and prove interesting to the Reader. May, 1827. CONTENTS. PAGE, CHAPTER I.—Departure from England.—Arrival at the Orkney Isles.—Enter Hudson's Straits.—Icebergs.— Esquimaux.—Killing a Polar Bear.—York Factory. —Embarked for the Red River Colony.— Difficulties of the Navigation. —Lake Winipeg.—Muskeggowuck, or Swamp Indians.—Pigewis, a chief of the Chipe- ways, or Saulteaux Tribe.—Arrival at the Red River. —Colonists.—School established. — Wolf dogs. -— Indians visit Fort Douglas.—Design of a Building for Divine Worship........... ee cate ctr er estes Oe eas OL Cuapter II.—Visit the School.—Leave the Forks for Qu’appelle.—Arrival at Brandon House.—Indian Corpse staged.—Marriages at Company’s Posts.— Distribution of the Scriptures.—Departure from Brandon House.—Encampment.—Arrival at Qu’ap- pelle.—Character and Customs of Stone Indians,— Stop at some Hunter’s Tents on return to the Colony. —Visit Pembina.—Hunting Buffaloes.—Indian Ad- dress.—Canadian Voyageurs.—Indian Marriages.— Burial Ground.—Pemican.—Indian Hunter sends his Son to be educated.—Musquitoes.—Locusts....... 28 KIV CONTENTS. PAGE. Cuaprer II].—Norway House.—Baptisms.—Arrival at York Factory.—Swiss Emigrants.—Auxiliary Bible Society formed.—Boat wrecked.—Catholic Priests.— Sioux Indians killed at the Colony.—Circulation of the Scriptures among the Colonists.—Scarcity of Provisions.—F ishing under the Ice.—Wild Fowl.— Meet the Sioux Indians at Pembina.—They scalp an Assiniboine. -War Dance.—Cruelly put to death a Captive Boy.—Indian expression of gratitude for the Education of his Child.—Sturgeon............6. 64 Cuaprer IV.—Arrival of Canoe from Montreal.— Liberal Provision for Missionary Establishment.— Manitobah Lake.—Indian Gardens.—Meet Captain Franklin and Officers of the Arctic Expedition at York Factory.—First Anniversary of the Auxiliary Bible Society.—Half-Caste Children.—Aurora Bo- realis.—Conversation with Pigewis.—Good Harvest at the Settlement, and arrival of Cattle from United States.—Massacre of Hunters.—Produce of Grain at CO OLOMY eis: ose scien a ahelatearekcuetene Seve sser nee gees O04 CHaprer V.—Climate of Red River.—Thermometer. _—Pigewis’s Nephew.— Wolves.—Remarks of General Washington.—Indian Woman shot by her Son.— Sufferings of Indians.—Their notions of the Deluge. —No visible object of adoration.—Acknowledge a Future Life.—Left the Colony for Bas la Riviere.— Lost on Winipeg Lake.—Recover the Track, and meet an intoxicated Indian.—Apparent facilities for establishing Schools West of Rocky Mountains.— Russians affording Religious instruction on the North CONTENTS. KV PAGE. West Coast of North America.—Rumours of War among the surrounding Tribes with the Sioux Indians. 110 Cuaprer VI.—Progress of Indian Children in reading. —Building for Divine Worship.—Left the Colony.— Arrival at York Fort.—Departure for Churchill Factory.—Bears.— Indian Hieroglyphics.—Arrival at Churchill.—Interview with Esquimaux.—Return to York Factory.x—Embark for England.— Moravian Missionaries. —Greenland.—Arrival in the Thames.. 150 Cuapter VII.—Leave England.—Banks of Newfound- land.— New York.—Slavery.—Population of America. —Climate.—Boston.--Salem.--Puritans.--Education. —Penobscot Bay.—Indians.—Eastport, Passama- quoddy.—Indians.—Bay of Fundy.—St. John’s, New Brunswick.—Loyalists.—Sussex Vale-Indians...... 211 CuarpTerVIII.—Indians.--Belleisle Straits.--Mirimachi destroyed by Fire.—Bay of Annapolis, Nova Scotia. —Indians.—Fur Trade.—Adelah.—Missionaries.— Negro Village.—American Colonization Society.— Return to New Brunswick.—Frederick Town.— Population of New Brunswick.—Climate.—Society for the Propagation of the Gospel.—Baptism.— Itinerant Preaching CuaprerR IX.—New Settlements. —Sabbath.—Leave New Brunswick.—Albany Anniversary, 4th July.— _ The Great Western Canal.—Lake Erie.—Niagara Falls.---Brock’s Monument.—Mohawk Indians.— Captain Brandt.—Mohawk Church.—Wesleyan Missionaries.—Mississaugah Tribe.—River Credit.— Indian Sacrifice and Ceremonies XVI CONTENTS. PAGE, Cuapter X.—Mississaugah Indians, their Location. Sabbath spent among them.—Pleasing Effects of their Conversion to Christianity.—Indian Preacher’s Address.—Their bold figurative Language.—Logan. —York, Upper Canda.—Auburn Prison.—Utica.— Trenton Falls.—Hudson River.—Boarding Houses. —Embarked at New York for England.—Death of one of the Passengers.—Arrival in England......... 320 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 1. THE ENGRAVING OF MEETING THE INDIANS, TO FACE THE TITLE PAGE. 2, SCALPING THE INDIANS, TO FACE PAGE 85. 3. Tur Protestant CHuRCH, TO FACE PAGE 155, 4, Tut Mowawk Cuurcnu, TO FACE PAGE 277. THE RED RIVER COLONY ; AND ‘THE NORTH-WEST-AMERICAN INDIANS. CHAPTER I. DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND.—ARRIVAL AT THE ORKNEY ISLES.— ENTER HUDSON’S STRAITS.—ICEBERGS.—ES- QUIMAUX.—KILLING A POLAR BEAR.—-——YORK FAC=- TORY.—EMBARKED FOR THE RED RIVER COLONY.— DIFFICULTIES OF THE NAVIGATION.—LAKE WINIPEG.,. —MUSKEGGOWUCK, OR SWAMP INDIANS.—PIGEWIS, A CHIEF OF THE CHIPPEWAYS OR SALTEAUX TRIBE.— ARRIVAL AT THE RED RIVER.—COLONISTS.—SCHOOL ESTABLISHED. — WOLF-DOGS.—-INDIANS VISIT FORT DOUGLAS.— DESIGN OF A BUILDING FOR DIVINE WORSHIP. On the 27th of May, 1820, I embarked at Gravesend, on board the Honourable Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship, the Eddystone ; accom- panied by the ship, Prince of Wales, and the Luna brig, for Hudson’s Bay. In my appoint- ment as Chaplain to the Company, my in- B 2 ORKNEY ISLES. structions were, to reside at the Red River Settlement, and under the encouragement and aid of the Church Missionary Society, I was to seek the instruction, and endeavour to melio- rate the condition of the native Indians. The anchor was weighed early on the follow- ing morning, and sailing with a fine breeze, the sea soon opened to our view. The thought that I was now leaving all that was dear to me upon earth, to encounter the perils of the ocean, and the wilderness, sensibly affected me at times ; but my feelings were relieved in the sanguine hope that I was borne on my way under the guidance of a kind protecting Provi- vidence, and that the circumstances of the country whither I was bound, would soon admit of my being surrounded with my family. With these sentiments, I saw point after point sink in the horizon, as we passed the shores of England and Scotland for the Orkneys. We bore up for these Isles on the 10th of June, after experiencing faint and variable winds for several days: and a more dreary scene can scarcely be imagined than they present to the eye, in general. No tree or shrub is visible; and all is barren except a few spots of cultivated ground in the vales, which form a striking con- trast with the barren heath-covered hills that ) ie a Vlioes 2 4 ie Li cor ape 3 SABBATH AT SEA. 3 surround them. These cultivated spots mark the residence of the hardy Orkneyman in a wretched looking habitation with scarcely any — other light, (as I found upon landing on one of the islands) than from a smoke hole, or from an aperture in the wall, closed at night with a tuft of grass. The calf and pig were seen as inmates, while the little furniture that ap- peared, was either festooned with strings of dried fish, or crossed with a perch for the fowls to roost on. A different scene, however, presented itself, as we anchored the next day in the commodious harbour of Stromness. The view of the town, with the surrounding cultivated parts of the country, and the Hoy Hill, is striking and romantic, and as our stay here was for a few days, I accepted an invitation to the Manse, from the kind and worthy minister of Hoy, and ascended with him the hill, of about 1620 feet high. The sabbath we spent at sea was a delight to me, from the arrangement made by the captain for the attendance of the passengers and part of the crew on divine worship, both morning and afternoon. Another sabbath had now re- turned, and the weather being fair, all were summoned to attend on the quarter deck. We B 2 4 DAVIS’S STRAITS. commenced the service by singing the Old Hundredth Psalm, and our voices being heard by the crews of several ships, lying near to us at anchor, they were seen hurrying on deck from below, so as to present to us a most interesting and gratifying sight— ‘¢ We stood, and under open sky adored The God, that made both ‘ seas,’ air, earth, and heaven.” There appeared to be a solemn impression ; and I trust that religion was felt among us as a divine reality. JuNE 22.—The ships got under weigh to proceed on our voyage; and as we passed the rugged and broken rocks of Hoy Head, we were reminded of the fury of a tempestuous ocean, in forming some of them into detached pillars, and vast caverns; while they left an impression upon the mind, of desolation and danger. We had not sailed more than one hundred miles on the Atlantic before it blew a strong head wind, and several on board with myself were greatly affected by the motion of the ship. It threw me into such a state of languor, that I felt as though I could have willingly yielded to have been cast overboard, and it was nearly a week before I was relieved from this painful sensation and nausea, peculiar to sea sickness. RESOLUTION ISLAND. 5 Without any occurrence worthy of notice we arrived in Davis’s Straits on the 19th of July, where Greenland ships are sometimes met with, returning from the whale fishery, but we saw not a single whaler in this solitary part of the ocean. The Mallemuk, found in great numbers off Greenland, and the “ Larus crepidatus,” or black toed gull, frequently visited us ; and for nearly a whole day, a large shoal of the “ Del- phinus deductor,” or leading whale, was ob- served following the ship. The captain ordered the harpoons and lances to be in readiness in case we fell in with the great Greenland whale, but nothing was seen of this monster of the deep. | In approaching Hudson’s straits, we first saw one of those beautiful features in the scenery of the North, an Iceberg, which being driven with vast masses of ice off Cape Farewell, South Greenland, are soon destroyed by means of the solar heat, and tempestuous force of the sea.. The thermometer was at 27° on the night of the 22nd, with ice in the boat; and in the after- noon we saw an iceblink, a beautiful effulgence or reflection of light over the floating ice, to the extent of forty or fifty miles. The next day we passed Resolution Island, Lat. 61° 25’, Long. 65° 2’ and all was desolate and inhospitable in 6 {CEBERGS. the view over black barren rocks, and in the aspect of the shore. This being Sunday, I preached in the morning, catechized the young people in the afternoon, and had divine service again in the evening, as was our custom every sabbath in crossing the Atlantic, when the weather would permit: and it afforded me much pleasure to witness the sailors at times in groups reading the life of Newton, or some religious tracts which I put into their hands. The Scotch I found generally well and scrip- turally informed, and several of them joined the young people in reading to me the New Testa- tament, and answering the catechetical ques- tions. In our passage through the Straits, our progress was impeded by vast fields of ice, and icebergs floating past us in every form of deso- late magnificence. The scene was truly grand and impressive, and mocks imagination to describe. There is a solemn and an over- whelming sensation produced in the mind, by these enormous masses of snow and ice, not to be conveyed in words.. They floated by us from one to two hundred feet above the water, and sometimes of great length, re- sembling huge mountains, with deep vallies between, lofty cliffs, and all the imposing objects in nature, passing in silent grandeur, exeept ESQUIMAUX. ,; at intervals, when the fall of one was heard, or the crashing of the ice struck the ear like the _ noise of distant thunder. | When nearly off Saddle Back, with a light favourable breeze, and about ten miles from the shore, the Esquimaux who, visit the Straits during summer, were observed with their one man skin canoes, followed by women in some of a larger size, paddling towards the ship. No sooner. was the sail shortened than we were surrounded by nearly two hundred of them: the men raising their paddles as they ap- proached us, shouting with much exultation, ‘chimo! chimo! pillattaa! pillattaa!’ expressions probably of friendship, or trade. They were particularly eager to exchange all that they apparently possessed, and hastily bartered with the Eddystone, blubber, whalebone, and sea- horse teeth, for axes, saws, knives, tin kettles, and bits of old iron hoop. The women pre- sented image toys, made from the bones and teeth of animals, models of canoes, and various articles of dress, made of seal skins, and the membranes of the abdomen of the whale, all of which displayed considerable ingenuity and neatness, and for which they received in ex- change, needles, knives, and beads. It was very clear that European deception had reached P ESQUIMAUX, them, frorh the manner in which they ¢ena- ciously held their articles till they grasped what was offered in barter for them; and immediately they got the merchandise in possession, they licked it with their tongues, in satisfaction that it was their own. The tribe appeared to be well-conditioned in their savage state, and remarkably healthy. Some of the children, I observed, were eating raw flesh, from the bones of animals that had been killed, and given them by their mothers, who appeared to have a strong natural affection for their offspring. I threw one of them a halfpenny, which she caught ; and pointing to the child she immedi-. ately gave it to him with much apparent fond- _ ness. It has been supposed that in holding up their children, as is sometimes the case, it is for barter, but I should rather conclude that it is for the purpose of exciting commiseration, and to obtain some European article for them. 182 DEPARTURE FROM CHURCHILL. for Knapp’s Bay. Before they started, Augustus was very desirous that I should see his coun- . trymen conjure; and bringing a blanket and a large knife, he assured me that one of them would swallow the knife, and not die; or fire a ball through his body, leaning upon a gun, without being injured. I understood that he was to perform this jugglery with the blanket round him, which I objected to, if I saw it; but told him that I had great objections to such deceptions and art, by which they im- posed on each other; and observed, that if his countrymen could really conjure, they should conjure the whales to the shore, which were then sporting in the river before us. He was not pleased, however, with my refusal, and it was with difficulty that I prevented the exhi- bition. When the party left us, they encircled me, and said that they would tell all of their tribe what had been mentioned about teaching the Esquimaux children white man’s know- ledge of the Great Spirit. They informed me that a great many of the Esquimaux meet in summer about Chesterfield Inlet; that some come down from the great lake to the north, and that they had met some, who had seen two very large canoes when there was no ice; and when one of these canoes stood in towards the CAPTAIN PARRY. 183 shore where they were, they were so alarmed as to run off over the rocks, and that they did not return till the big canoes were out of sight towards where the sun rises. This information led me to suppose that they were the Discovery Ships, under the command of Captain Parry ; and to conjecture that the ice had been a barrier to his progress in search of a North- West Passage, and that he was returning down the Bay to England. The object of the Es- quimaux in meeting from different tribes at Chesterfield Inlet every year, is to barter with those principally who trade at Churchill Fac- tory, and also with some Northern Indians, who exchange what European articles they may have for fish-hooks made of bone, and sinew lines, and skins. I then shook hands with them, and gave to each individual a clasp- knife, some tobacco, and a few beads, to take with them to their wives, with which they were much pleased, telling me, not to be afraid to come to their country, as Esquimaux would treat me well. Avueust 7.—When the remaining party re- turned to Knapp’s Bay, it was proposed by the Master of the Company’s Posts, that they should stop for a few days at Seal River, about 184 SPEARING WHALES. fifty miles north of Churchill, and spear white whales for the blubber. This they readily assented to, and the day after they started, I accompanied the officer in a boat to the point where they were to be employed. We pitched our tents near the place where they rested at night, and were much amused at their dexterity in spearing a number of whales on the following day. In the course of two days they har- pooned about forty, so numerous were these animals in the Bay at the mouth of the river. These Esquimaux were not unacquainted with habits of cleanliness, for they were no sooner ashore from spearing whales, than they changed their dirty skin dress for one of a newer and cleaner character; and in seating themselves in a circle, around a small fire they had made, I observed that while they boiled the skin of the whale, and some partook of it, others were eating the tail and the fin in a raw state. I never knew natives more orderly and less troublesome ; we were in their power, but so far from annoying us, they never even came to our tents, importuning for tobacco and other articles, as is generally the case with Indians when near their own encampment. Wishing to talk with them again on the ESQUIMAUX. 185 subject of teaching their children, I mvited to my tent seven of the oldest men among them ; and repeated to them the questions which I had put to the whole of them before. They expressed the same feelings in favour of in- struction, and a hope that I was not afraid to come to their country, promising, when white man came, not to steal from him, a vice which they are sometimes guilty of at the Factory. I found that they believed in a future state ; and acknowledged that there was a bad Spirit, who made them suffer, and to whom they prayed that he would not hurt them. 'They thought that when a bad man died, the bad Spirit took him, and put him in a hole under ground, where there was always fire, but this idea they might have got from their intercourse with Europeans at the Fort: and when a good man died, they believed that the moon took him up, where he lived as he had done below, only that he had always plenty to enjoy, and less paddling to do. In parting with these Indians, as with the others who returned to Chesterfield Inlet, I gave to each individual a clasp knife, some tobacco, and a few beads to take to their wives; and my prayer to God was, that some effectual step might be taken to communicate to these heathen, that knowledge which they 186 THE COAST. appeared desirous of receiving, and which would ameliorate their condition through a scriptural hope of a future life. We returned to the Factory, along a coast the most dangerous to navigate that can possibly be conceived, from fragments of rocks being studded in the water for miles from the shore, and which are only visible at the reflux of the tide. The safest course to take is to run out to sea, and sail along out of sight of land; but this is hazardous in an open boat, if the weather be stormy, or the water is much ruffled by the wind. The Company lost a boat’s crew last fall, as they were returning to Churchill, from one of the points of rock where they had been to collect geese, which the Indians had shot, and which are salted as part of the winter supply of provisions at the Establishment. At first it was supposed that the boat had been driven out to sea,.and all had perished in a most painful manner; but during our stay, an Indian came to the Fort, to inform the officer that the empty boat was lying on the beach, about six or seven miles to the south of Churchill River. He immediately sent men to the spot, and to search along the coast for some remains at least of the bodies of the crew, but not the least appearance of them could be CHIPEWYANS. 187 found. The boat filled and went down, with the sail set and fastened to the mast, which was the state in which it was found; but whether she struck upon the point of a sunken rock, or swamped at the conflux of the waters off the mouth of the river at the return of the tide, not a man survived to tell the melancholy tale. The 10th.—I began to make preparations for my return to York Factory, in the supply of ammunition and a couple of days’ provisions for our journey. As every thing we took was borne on the back of the men, we deemed this sufficient, with the supply we were likely to obtain in our walk through a country which at this season of the year generally abounds with wild fowl. It was painful to see several Indian women in an infirm state of health and lame, continually begging for a little oatmeal, or picking fripe de roche for a subsistence, being unable to follow the tribe they belonged to; and, upon inquiry, I found that it was a common custom among the Chipewyans, to leave the aged, the infirm, and the sick, when supposed incapable of recovery, to perish for want! and that one-half of the aged probably die in this miserable condition! The common feelings of humanity suggest the question,— Could not some establishment be formed, as 188 CHIPEWYANS. a hospital for the reception of a certain number at least of the aged and infirm; towards the maintenance of which, the Indians themselves, in bringing their relations, might be induced to contribute, were it only the tenth skin from the produce of their hunting? If this esta- blishment could not be formed near the coast, might not one be made as an experiment on the borders of their country in the Athabasca ? where grain and Indian corn might be raised towards its support. The subject at least challenges inquiry, and is fraught with deep interest, as calling forth the best feelings of benevolence; for a more deplorable situation in existence cannot be conceived, than for persons to be deserted in afflictive old age, suffering infirmity, and left at the last stage of life to expire in want, when, of all other periods in our mortal career, we most need attention, and sympathy, and kindness. These Indians have a singular custom of wrestling for any woman to whom they are attached ; and she has to witness the contest, which consists in hauling each other about by the hair of the head, without kicking or striking, till the strongest party carries her off as his prize. And instead of stabbing one another in their quarrels, as is frequently the case with LEAVE CHURCHILL FACTORY. 189 ‘the Southern Indians, these generally decide them by wrestling. They may permit a weak man, if he be a good hunter, to keep the object of his choice; but otherwise he is obliged to yield his wife to a stronger man, who may think her worth his notice. This barbarous custom I should suppose prevails among the Esquimaux who visit Churchill Factory, as they pointed out to me, at the time I saw them, a weakly looking man, who they said had his wife taken from him by another of superior strength. They shewed me also how they decided their quarrels, by each party alter- nately bending. the body in a horizontal posi- tion, and receiving from each other a blow of the fist on the temple or side of the face. On the 12th, we left Churchill Factory, and in our track killed plenty of wild-fowl, and were again tortured with the mosquitoes, till after the second day’s march, when we waded through a low swampy ground, frequently half- leg deep in water, to some dry ridges of land. The wind blew again off the ice in the bay, which enabled us to walk without much annoy- ance; and in our progress, we often passed large holes, which the bears had scratched in these ridges to lie in, and which, from the 190 BEARS. impression of their paws on the sand, several had recently left. On the 17th, we came toa tent of Indians, who were encamped on the shore, for the purpose of killing them, in the front of which was the head of one that they had lately shot, stuck upon some painted sticks, in expression of some superstitious notions respecting the animal. They have a great dread of bears, and are very fond of wearing their claws round their necks, ornamented as a necklace, under the idea that they shall be preserved from their ferocious attacks. A short time before I left the Red River Colony, a Saulteaux Indian came to my residence with a necklace strung with some large claws; and prevailing upon him to part with it for some tobacco, he addressed it in a very grave speech, when he took it from his neck, and laid it for me on the table, in language to the following effect :—‘ My grandfather! you and I have been together some time—we must now part. Go to that Chief; and in leaving me, be not angry, but let me kill buffaloe when I am hungry, and another bear when I meet with it, and then I will make another necklace of the claws.” I smiled at this address, when, looking at me very seriously, he said, “ If you offend ARRIVE AT YORK FACTORY. 191 the bear,” (I supposed he meant the spirit of the bear, whose claws he had given me,) “ the bears will be sure to eat you.” On the 18th, some Indians whom we met, told us that they had heard the great guns of the ship, on her arrival from England, though they had not seen her at anchor. The next day convinced us of the fact; and we reached York Factory early the following morning, after having walked on our return from Churchill, the supposed distance of one hundred and eighty miles, through a trackless path in swamps and long grass, in less than seven days. Here I had the happiness of meeting the Rev. Mr. Jones, arrived by the ship, on his way to the Red River Settlement, my fellow-labourer in that situation; to whom I committed the two Chepewyan Indian boys. After a few days, he _ proceeded with his little charge to his destina- tion. And may God, whom we serve in the gospel of his Son, abundantly bless his exer- tions, on entering upon a field of anxious and laborious toil, which I have just left, to visit the land of my nativity and affection, after an absence of more than three y.ears. York Factory, as the pui'incipal depot, is rapidly improving in appear:ynce, and in the 192 YORK FACTORY. extent of its buildings. A number of the chief Factors and Traders meet here every summer, and a council is held for the management of the Northern Factory ; while another is also annually held at Moose, in St. James’s Bay, for the direction of the Southern Factory. 'This division of the Company’s territory, comprises the whole of the country, from the furthest known point to the north to the boundary line of the United States, and from the waters of the Pacific to those of the Atlantic. In carrying into effect the moral improvement of the coun- try, which has long been contemplated, it would be very desirable that schools should be established at the Company’s chief depdts; where it is presumed provisions might be ob- tained, for the support at least of a limited number of the half-caste children. And the most beneficial results might follow the regular performance of divine worship on the Sabbath, by aClergyman, throughout the summer months at least, in a building erected and appropriated as a chapel. These are arrangements, which every benevolent mind, truly desirous of pro- moting the best interests of the country, where the progress of moral and religious instruction would be but slow, would rejoice to see prac- tically entered upon. EMBARK FOR ENGLAND. 193 It may be stated with pleasure that directions have been given to lessen the quantity of spirit- uous liquors in barter with the natives. The baneful effects of such a medium of trade have long been deplored by all who have regarded the amelioration of their state, and sought to improve their wandering condition. Cruelty, disease, and premature decay have for centuries past been generated wherever Europeans have introduced the exchange of ardent spirits with the Indians. No act therefore can be more beneficial and humane than that of gradually altering a system which is at once so prejudicial to the native, and injurious to the morals of the trader. It is to be hoped that the benevolent intentions of the Honourable Committee will be carried into full effect, together with the re- solutions passed in council at York Factory, July 1823, for the purpose of improving the moral state, both of the Indians and of the European inhabitants of the Company’s terri- tory; an event highly interesting to every friend of humanity and religion. Sepr. 10.—We embarked on board the ship Prince of Wales on her return to England, and left the anchorage next day with a favourable wind. The weather being moderate, on Sun- Oo 194 AT SEA. day the 14th we enjoyed the privilege of having two full services. The 16th.—The wind continues light and fa- vourable, and I have been much interested in reading Mr. Wilberforce’s pamphlet, entitled, ** An Appeal in behalf of the Negro Slaves.” When will men regard each other as brethren, connected by the common ties of humanity, and as generally responsible to God, the Judge of all. Sunday, 2lst—When off Cape Charles at the entrance of Hudson’s straits, the Thermo- meter I observed was as low as 24°; and the land as we passed along was covered with snow. The prospect was most chilling and dreary. Though it blew fresh, there was not however a heavy swell of the sea, which gave us the opportunity of having divine service both morning and afternoon. I felt humbled in going through the Ministerial duties of the day ; and the experience of my heart imposes on me the obligation of labouring more and more after humiliation. What a consolation is it to know that we are saved by hope, even in Him, who sitteth upon the circle of the heavens, directing the course of the elements—who commandeth the waters and they obey Him. TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER 195 On the 23d we encountered a heavy gale of wind, with a short and angry sea, insomuch that the ship was covered with waves, and all on board were reeling to and fro, and staggering like a drunken man. Towards evening it blew a hurricane; the heavens were black with tempest, and all around us appeared awfully dangerous. Self-examination is at all times profitable and incumbent on the Christian, but when dangers press around him in a tumultuous scene of waters, it is peculiarly consolatory for him to find upon examination, that the sheet anchor of his hope is well grounded ; and that he has laboured in the cause of his divine Lord with a conscious integrity, though with a con scious imperfection of character. It was well said by the wife of a Missionary, in her last moments, when it was observed to her that she was dying a sacrifice in the cause of missions, “ would rather (said she) die a penitent sinner at the cross of Christ.” Every day, in the smooth unruffled calm of life, or on the tempestuous ocean of its existence, would I feel the senti- ment so expressive of the Christian’s security, and simple reliance upon the omnipotent arm of the Saviour, as uttered by St. Peter, when ready to sink amidst the threatening waves; ‘“‘ Lord save us, we perish.” O 2 196 BECALMED NEAR ICEBERGS. During the 25th we were becalmed off the Upper Savage Islands, amidst several large ice- bergs, some of which were stranded on the shore, and would receive the accumulation of another winter's fall of snow, from not being driven out of the Straits into the Atlantic Ocean, where they are dissolved. The winter was again setting in with a cold frosty air, and frequent snow storms. ‘The next morning the wind freshened, and on the 27th, when we were off Saddle Back, we experienced another heavy gale of wind, which was so violent about eight o'clock in the evening, that it broke the mizen top sail yard, while nine of the sailors were furling the sail. Providentially the broken part of the yard slung with the ropes, or every soul must inevitably have perished, from the violent rolling of the ship. A more rough and stormy night could not well be experienced, with the aggravated danger of sailing among a number of large isles of floating ice; the run- ning foul of one of which would be immediate destruction, as upon a rock. The next day the wind moderated, and was favourable, but from the rolling of the ship I could only read the morning and evening prayers, and that with some difficulty, when we met for divine worship. In the evening we ap- ENTER THE ATLANTIC. 197 proached Resolution Island, and the waters of the Atlantic opened to us with the encouraging pro- spect of having more sea room to encounter any storms that we might afterwards meet with. As we left the barren rugged shores of the Straits, and the chain of rocks terminating in ragged points on the coast of Labrador, there was a general spirit of congratulation ; and the pro- spect of crossing the great Western Ocean in safety raised in my mind the ascription of praise uttered by the Psalmist, “ Praise the Lord, O my soul, and forget not all his benefits.” Oct. 4.—We were off Cape Farewell, South Greenland, with strong gales of wind. This point called to my mind the labours of the Moravian Missionaries who had formed several settlements, the most southern of which I be- lieve is Lichterau, among the Greenlanders, under far greater difficulties, than are likely to assail the Missionary, in his attempt to form an establisament for the instruction of the same race of people in the principles of divine truth on the shores of Hudson’s Bay, with the aid and co-operation of the Hudson’s Bay Company. These pious, simple, devoted Missionaries, have proved that missions to the heathen on the most inhospitable and barren shores are not visionary schemes, but succeed effectually under 198 MORAVIAN MISSIONS. the blessing of heaven to the conversion of the natives ; and they have established the principle, that wherever the waters roll, and however barren the rock on which man is to be found, there man may be benefitted with the saving knowledge and blessings of Christianity. The account given of the first Missionaries of the United Brethren, whose entrance upon the in- hospitable and icy coasts of Greenland was in 1733, among whom was that eminent servant of the mission, Matthew Stach, is truly interesting. Leaving Hernnhutt, they first proceeded to the Danish capital, as Greenland was under that government, to obtain the sanction of the King, in their intended mission. Their first audience with the Chamberlain was not a little discour- aging, but being convinced, by a closer ac- quaintance of the solidity of their faith, and the rectitude of their intentions, this Minister be- came their firm friend, and willingly presented their memorial to the King, who was pleased to approve of their design, and wrote a letter with his own hand, recommending them to the notice of the Danish Missionary, Egede, who had un- dertaken a mission to Greenland in 1721, but had hitherto accomplished very little in the way of success, notwithstanding his indefatigable exertions. | | MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 199 The Chamberlain also introduced them to several persons distinguished by rank and piety, who liberally contributed toward the expense of their voyage and intended settlement. Being asked one day by his Excellency, how they pro- posed to maintain themselves in Greenland, they answered, that they depended on the labour of their own hands and God’s blessing; and that not to be burdensome to any one, they would build themselves a house and cultivate the ground. It being objected that they would find no wood to build with, as the country presented little but a face of barren rock. “ Then,” replied they in a true Missionary spirit, “ we will dig into the earth and lodge there.” “ No,” said the Minister, “ to that necessity you shall not be reduced ; you shall take timber with you for building a house ; accept of these fifty dollars for that purpose.” With this and other dona- tions, they purchased poles, planks and laths ; instruments for agriculture, and carpenter’s work, together with several sorts of seeds and roots, with provisions. Thus equipped, says Crantz, they took an affectionate leave of the Court where they had been so hospitably enter- tained, and embarked on the 10th of April, on board the King’s ship, Caritas, Capt. Hildebrand. — The congregation at Hernhutt had already 200 MORAVIAN MISSIONS. adopted the custom of annually compiling a collection of scripture texts for every day in the year, each illustrated or applied by a short verse from some hymn. This text was called the “daily word,” it supplied a profitable subject for private meditation, and a theme for the pub- lic discourses. The daily word on the morning of their embarkation on a mission which so often appeared to baffle all hope, was, ‘ Faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.’ ‘“* We view Him, whom no eye can see, With faith’s keen vision stedfastly.” In this confidence they set sail ; nor did they suffer themselves to be confounded by any of the unspeakable difficulties of the following years, till they and we at last beheld the com- pletion of what they hoped for in faith. They sailed by Shetland, April 22nd; and, after an expeditious and agreeable voyage, en- tered Davis’s Straits in the beginning of May. Here they encountered a field of floating ice, while enveloped in a thick fog; but the next day a terrible storm arose, which dispersed the ice and freed them at the same time from their fears. On the 13th they came in sight of the coast of Greenland, when a violent tempest of MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 201 four days’ continuance, preceded by a total eclipse of the sun, drove them back more than sixty leagues. May 20th, they cast anchor in Ball’s River, after a voyage of six weeks; and joyfully welcomed the snowy cliffs and savage inhabitants of a country which had so long been. the chief object of their wishes. The word of the day was, The peace of God, which passeth all understanding, shall keep your hearts and minds through Jesus Christ. By this they were frequently encouraged to a peaceful and be- lieving perseverance, during the first ensuing years, amidst all ‘the oppositions which they met with, and the slender prospect they enter- tained of the conversion of the heathen. The sight of the first Greenlanders, though they could not speak a word to them, was ac- companied with sensations of lively pleasure; their pitiable condition pierced them to the heart, and they prayed the Lord, the Light to enlighten the gentiles, that he would grant them grace, wisdom, and power, to bring some of them at least out of darkness into His marvel- lous light. Immediately on their landing they repaired to Mr. Egede. He gave them a cordial reception, congratulated them on their under- taking, and promised them his assistance in learning the language. They next fixed on a 202 MORAVIAN MISSIONS. spot for their building, on the nearest habi- table part of the coast, to which they afterward gave the name of New Hernnhutt ; and having consecrated it with prayer began to run up a Greenland hut of stones and sods, in which they might find shelter, until they had erected a wooden house. At first the natives regarded them with contempt, concluding from the readiness with which they engaged in every kind of manual labour, that they were the Fac- tor’s servants; and being scattered among the islands and hills to fish, catch seals, and hunt deer, while in winter they made journies on sledges to their acquaintance upwards of a hun- dred leagues North or South ; the Brethren had little access to them, and but faint hopes of making any permanent impression on their minds in their wandering mode of existence. Some of the natives, however, paid a visit to them, but it was only from curiosity to see their buildings, or to beg needles, fish hooks, knives, and other such articles, if not to steal; and no proffered advantages could tempt them to re- main for a short time at the Settlement. Till at length when they understood that the object of these faithful, tried, and persevering Mission- aries was not to trade with them, but to make them acquainted with their Creator ; and when MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 203 they observed their modest and gentle carriage, so different from that of other Europeans, they paid them more attention, pressed them to come to their huts, and promised to return the visit themselves. A more frequent intercourse gra- dually commenced, and the Greenlanders would sometimes spend a night with the Brethren. The motives of their visits were, indeed, glar- ingly selfish. They wanted either food and shelter, or presents of needles and other things. They even bluntly declared, that if the Mission- aries would give them no stock-fish, they would no longer listen to what they had to say: and during the winter, which was intensely cold, the Brethren could not refuse their request for pro- visions. They did not altogether discontinue their visits in summer, but they generally came after spending the night in feasting and revell- ing, too drowsy to support a conversation, or intent only upon hearing some news, or on begging or purloining whatever might strike their fancy. Their pilfering habits made their visits not a little troublesome to the Brethren, but the latter did not wish to frighten them away ; and were content for the present, that they came at all, especially as a few of them discovered a satisfaction in being’ present at the evening meetings, though held in German, and 204 MORAVIAN MISSIONS. made inquiries into the design of them. After a series of trying hardships; and after enduring privations for years, they were encouraged in their mission, established in much long-suffering and patience, by one of the natives visiting them, and desiring to “ see their things.” They showed him what they had, supposing that he wished to barter some Greenland food for their iron ware. But after remaining quite silent for some time, he at last said that he had been with the Minister, (Mr Egede) who had told him wonderful things of One, who was said to have created heaven and earth, and was called God. Did they know any thing about it? If they did, they should tell him something more, as he had forgotten a good deal. This dis- course made a deep impression on their minds. They told him of the creation of man, and the intention it; of the fall and consequent corrup- tion of the human race; of the redemption through Christ; of the resurrection ; and of eternal happiness and damnation. ‘The poor Greenlander listened very attentively, was present at their evening meeting, and slept all night in their tent. Further inquiries were afterwards made among the natives, till the Brethren had their two Greenland houses com- pletely filled, and a native congregation col- MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 205 lected. The word of the gospel was eventually propagated by the Missionaries through a vast extent of country, and its glad tidings spread still farther by the savages themselves, so that a numerous company of Greenlanders have been gathered to Jesus Christ by the preaching of his word—moulded into a spiritual congre- gation by the operation of the Holy Ghost (says the above historian,) and furnished with such provisions for its good discipline, both within and without, that amidst all defects, it might in truth be called a living, flourishing, fruit-bearing plant of the heavenly Father's planting. Such an example of success in Missionary exertions, in the frozen and uncultivated regions of Greenland and of Labrador, as the United Brethren have set, holds out every encourage- ment to hope that a mission would succeed among the Esquimaux at Hudson’s Bay. They resemble the Greenlanders in their aspect, dress, and mode of living; and speaking the same language, it would greatly aid the mission to them, if one or two Christian natives could be obtained and prevailed upon to join it from the coast of Greenland. They are shouting from their native rocks for instruction, and have appealed to the Christian sympathy and bene- 206 MISSIONS. volence of every friend of missions, in language of the same import as the call of Macedonia,— ““ We want to know the grand God.” “‘ Shall we, whose souls are lighted With wisdom from on high, Shall we to men benighted The lamp of life deny ? Salvation! oh, salvation! The joyful sound proclaim, Till each remotest nation Has learn’d Messiah’s name. Waft, waft, ye winds, his story, And you, ye waters, roll, Till, like a sea of glory, It spreads from pole to pole ; Till o’er our ransomed nature, The Lamb for sinners slain, Redeemer, King, Creator! In bliss returns to reign.” Bisunor oF CALcuTta. The 5th.—Sunday. The wind has blown hard all day, so as to permit, from the rolling of the ship, of my only reading the Morning and Evening Prayers, for divine worship. I know that God, who made heaven, earth, and seas, is not confined to forms of prayer, how ever excellent, any more than to temples made with hands. But as a formulary, how full and comprehensive is that of the Church of Eng- AT SEA. 207 land! and how well adapted to express the feelings of the mind, humbled, and peniten- tially exercised, yet exalted in hope at the throne of a covenant God in Christ Jesus. When the prayers are prayed, and not merely read in the cold formality of office, instead of wearying the mind by repetition, how often are they the means of arresting our wan- dering thoughts, and awakening a devotional feeling! ‘This effect, I trust, was produced in our minds, as we met together, for the public services of the day, in the cabin of the ship. | , From the 5th to the 9th, we had stiff gales of wind from the same quarter, which caused the sea to roll with a majesty and grandeur that I . never before witnessed. I stood on the quarter- deck, in admiration of the scene, and of the wonders of God in the deep, as wave rolled after wave, occasionally breaking on its moun- tainous top into a roaring and foaming surge. But while the waves roar and the winds howl around me, Iam borne in safety through the mighty waters towards the desired haven. What a fit emblem is this experience of the spiritual and eternal safety of the Christian, in the ark of the covenant, amidst the foaming billows of affliction, the wind of temptation, 208 ARRIVE IN THE THAMES. and every storm of trial raised by man in a fallen and disordered world, branded with so many marks of its Creator’s displeasure. We were prevented from meeting in the cabin, for divine service, on Sunday the 12th, from its blowing a hard gale, and the violent tossing of the ship. We now experienced a sensible alteration in the weather, as being much milder; and a couple of black wolves and a bear, which we had on board, were evi- dently affected by the change of the atmos- phere, as we were bearing up for the Orkney Isles. On the 15th, we anchored in Stromness harbour, and, leaving this anchorage on the 17th, we reached Yarmouth Roads, Cctober the 23d; and through a kind protecting Pro- vidence, I landed, on the following day, from the ship, in the Thames. Since my departure from England, in May 1820, to this period of my return, not one acci- dent have I met with, nor have I been called to experience a single day’s illness. Though in perils oft by land and by sea, and exposed to threatened dangers of the ice, and of the desert, still my life has been preserved. Praised be the Lord God of my salvation! CONCLUSION. 209 In sending this volume to the press, I feel that Iam discharging a duty which I owe to the natives of the rocks and of the wilderness, whom I have seen in the darkness and misery of heathenism ; and I ardently desire that the Mission already entered upon, may become the means of widely extending the knowledge of Christianity among them. I have no higher wish in life, than to spend and be spent in the service of Christ, for the salvation of the North American Indians. Not my will, however, but His be done, who alone can direct and control all Missions successfully, to the ful- filment of His prophetic word, when ‘“ The wilderness shall become a fruitful field,” and ** the desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose.” Since the foregoing sheets were sent to the Printer, very gratifying intelligence has been received of the improved state of the Colony ; and a sanguine hope is entertained that several native Indian children from different nations P 210 CONCLUSION. will be added to the number of those already upon the Church Mission School establishment at the Red River. | THE END. ERRATA. Page 1, line 7, for Salteaux, read Saulteaux. 21, line 6, for 1820, read 1817. 36, line 2 from bottom, for spiritous, read spirituous. 57, line 24, for forty read sixty. 70, bottom of the page, for Heritics, read Heretics. 131, line 24, for Loom, read Loon. 156, line 3, for a, read no. 180, line 3, for intrepedity, read intrepidity. 204, line 19, for intention it, read intention of it. 4 viv i A JOURNAL: PRINTED BY L. B. SEELEY, WESTON GREEN, THAMES DITTON. THE SUBSTANCE OF A JOURNAL DURING A RESIDENCE AT THE RED RIVER COLONY, British North America; . AND FREQUENT EXCURSIONS AMONG THE NORTH-WEST AMERICAN INDIANS, IN THE YEARS 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823. BY JOHN WEST, M. A. LATE CHAPLAIN TO THE HON. THE HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY. PRINTED FOR L. B. SEELEY AND SON, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXXIV.. 3 SS ee Po Sm eee Rete ‘ iv vt TO THE REV. HENRY BUDD, M. A. CHAPLAIN TO BRIDEWELL HOSPITAL, MINISTER OF BRIDEWELL PRECINCT, AND RECTOR OF WHITE ROOTHING, ESSEX, AS A TESTIMONY OF GRATITUDE FOR HIS KINDNESS AND FRIENDSHIP, AND OF HIGH ESTEEM FOR HIS UNWEARIED EXERTIONS IN EVERY CAUSE OF BENEVOLENCE AND ENLIGHTENED ENDEAVOUR TO PROMOTE THE BEST INPERESTS OF MAN, THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE, We live in a day when the most distant parts of the earth are opening as the sphere of Mis- sionary labours. The state of the heathen world is becoming better known, and the sym- pathy of British Christians has been awakened, in zealous endeavours to evangelize and soothe its sorrows. In these encouraging signs of the times, the Author is induced to give the follow- ing pages to the public, from having traversed some of the dreary wilds of North America, and felt deeply interested in the religious in- struction and amelioration of the condition of the natives. They are wandering, in unnum- bered tribes, through vast wildernesses, where generation after generation have passed away, in gross ignorance and almost brutal degra- dation. Should any information he is enabled to give excite a further Christian sympathy, and more active benevolence in their behalf, i¢ will truly vi PREFACE. rejoice his heart: and his prayer to God, is, that the Aborigines of a British Territory, may not remain as outcasts from British Missionary exertions ; but may be raised through their in- strumentality, to what they are capable of en- joying, the advantages of civilized and _ social life, with the blessings of Christianity. September, 1824. A CONTENTS. PAGE. CuaprterR I.—Departure from England.—Arrival at the Orkney Isles.—Enter Hudson’s Straits.—Icebergs.— Esquimaux.—kKilling a Polar Bear.—York Factory. —Embarked for the Red River Colony.— Difficulties of the Navigation.—Lake Winipeg.—Muskeggowuck, or Swamp Indians.—Pigewis, a chief of the Chipe- ways, or Saulteaux Tribe.—Arrival at the Red River. —Colonists. — School established. —Wolf dogs.— Indians visit Fort Douglas.—Design of a Building for Divine) Worship... 6.5.4. 4'0e's's diototsteeiee'e's' 6's os 1 Cuapter Il.—Visit the School.—Leave the Forks for Qu’appelle.—Arrival at Brandon House.—Indian Corpse staged.—Marriages at Company’s Posts.— Distribution of the Scriptures.—Departure from Brandon House.—Encampment.—Arrival at Qu’ap- pelle.—Character and Customs of Stone Indians.— Stop at some Hunter’s Tents on return to the Colony. —-Visit Pembina.—Hunting Buffaloes.—Indian ad- dress.—Canadian Voyageurs.—Indian Marriages.— Burial Ground.—Pemican.—Indian Hunter sends his son to be educated.--Mosquitoes.—Locusts. .....- 28 x CONTENTS. PAGE. Cuarrer I]].—Norway House.—Baptisms.-—Arrival at York Factory.—Swiss Emigrants.—Auxiliary Bible Society formed.—Boat wrecked.—Catholic Priests.— Sioux Indians killed at the Colony.—Circulation of the Scriptures among the Colonists.—Scarcity of Provisions.—Fishing under the Ice.— Wild Fowl.— Meet the Sioux Indians at Pembina.—They scalp an Assiniboine.—War dance. -~Cruelly put to death a Captive Boy.—Indian expression of gratitude for the Education of his Child.—Sturgeon....... Rept orn Oe! Cuaprer 1V.—Arrival of Canoe from Montreal.— Liberal Provision for Missionary Establishment.— Manitobah Lake.—Indian Gardens.—Meet Captain Franklin and Officers of the Arctic Expedition at York Factory.—First Anniversary of the Auxiliary Bible Society. Half-Caste Children. Borealis.—Conversation with Pigewis.—Good Har- Aurora vest at the Settlement, and arrival of Cattle from United States.—Massacre of Hunters.—Produce of GramvatC.olomyie ee ctne cits cles oe Pro, oe Cuaprer V.—Climate of Red River.—Thermometer. —Pigewis’s Nephew.— Wolves.—Remarks of General Washington.—Indian Woman shot by her son.— Sufferings of Indians.—Their notions of the Deluge. —No visible object of adoration.—Acknowledge a Future Life——Left the Colony for Bas la Riviére.— Lost on Winipeg Lake.—Recover the Track, and meet an intoxicated Indian.—Apparent facilities for establishing Schools West of Rocky Mountains.— Russians affordmg Religious instruction on the North CONTENTS. XI PAGE. West. Coast of North America—Rumours of War among the surrounding Tribes with the Sioux Indians. 110 Cuapter VI.—Progress of Indian Children in reading. —Building for Divine Worship.—Left the Colony.— Arrival at York Fort.—Departure for Churchill Fac- tory.—Bears.—Indian Hieroglyphics. ——Arrival at Churchill.—Interview with Esquimaux.—Return to York Factory.—Embark for England.—Moravian Missionaries. —Greenland.—Arrival in the Thames... 150 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 1. THE ENGRAVING OF MEETING THE INDIANS, TO FACE THE TITLE PAGE. 2. SCALPING THE INDIANS TO FACE PAGE 85. 3. THE ProrestTant CHURCH, TO FACE PAGE 158. SECOND JOURNAL. CHAPTER I. LEAVE ENGLAND.—BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND.—NEW YORK. — SLAVERY. —- POPULATION OF AMERICA, — CLIMATE.—BOSTON.— SALEM.— PURITAN’S EDUCATION. ——-PENOBSCOT BAY.—INDIANS.—EASTPORT PASSAMA= QUODDY. — INDIANS.— BAY OF FUNDY.—ST. JOHN’S NEW BRUNSWICK.—LOYALISTS.—SUSSEX VALE INDIANS. On my return from Hudson’s Bay, after an absence of nearly three years and a half, em- ployed in laying the foundation of the North West American Mission, I was requested by the New England Company, incorporated in the reign of Charles the Second, 1662, to under- take a mission to the Indians of New Brunswick and the adjoining British Province of Nova Scotia. At the same time instructions were given me, to visit the several stations of Indians in the aforesaid provinces, and also the Mohawks on the Grand River, Upper Canada, previous to my return to England. P 210 BANKS OF NEWFOUNDLAND. I left London under this engagement, June the 2nd, in the York Packet, bound to New York, United States. In beating down chan- nel, the wind was contrary, and continued to | blow fresh ahead till we anchored off the Isle of Wight. A favourable breeze then springing up, we set sail; and as the British shores re- ceded from my view, I was driven by the winds in a direction from all that I held most dear upon earth. It was a moment of trial, but it taught me more deeply the value of faith, as a divine principle. ‘This bore me on amidst the hurried feelings of our common nature, believ- ing that I was embarked on a mission to the heathen for some substantial good, and that missionary labours, though attended with im- perfection, were yet a link in the chain of human agency, by which the knowledge of the Christian religion was to be spread throughout a fallen world. We passed the Lizard on the 10th, and reached the Banks of Newfoundland the 27th. In approaching these shoals, so valuable for the cod-fishery, we experienced the prevailing weather ; cold rain, thunder storms, and a foggy atmosphere. In taking this northerly direction, it was the intention of the Captain to have avoided the Gulf Stream, but we fell NEW YORK. 211 within its influence on the morning of July the Ist. This current is a very remarkable one, running in a north-easterly direction along the coasts of America, from the Gulf of Mexico, and Cape Florida. Its width is from forty to fifty miles, widening towards the north, as it proceeds in a semicircular course, touching the southern part of Newfoundland. The water of this phenomenon is frequently found from ten to fifteen degrees warmer than the air, and sometimes considerably more. The velocity of the current near its source, is about four knots an hour, but varies, as affected by the wind. The Hon. Mr. Rush, returning from his em- bassy to America, with his family, were on board the Packet. 'They were friendly to missions, and every benevolent exertion to disseminate scriptural and enlightened knowledge through- out the world. His excellency was pleased to give me letters of introduction to some distin- guished families, with a view to my obtaining some useful information on the state of the Indians, in my route through the eastern part of the United States, to the British Provinces. On the morning of July the 10th, we heard the cheering exclamation from the sailors of, land! land! and disembarked the following day, at New York. My stay in the city was but for a PQ 212 SLAVERY. few days; and in gleaning knowledge and information, I was introduced to a Slave Hol- der from South Carolina, who in a conversation on the subject of slavery, literally expressed his surprise that I should think Negroes “ had souls like white men ;” and meeting afterwards, at the boarding house, with an intelligent gentleman from one of the slave-holding States, and expressing my surprise that slavery should exist at all in America, the first principle of whose government declares, that “ all men are by nature free, equal, and independent ;” he observed, that it could not be supposed that Negroes were considered or thought of as included in the expression, “all men.” How- ever persons may sophisticate as apologists for slavery, its existence is grossly inconsistent with the great charter of the nation. It is true, that England first carried slavery to the shores of America, but having thrown off their alle- giance, and made the above noble declaration in the spirit of their constitution, every princi- ple of reason, consistency, and justice, demands the freedom of more than a million of human beings, who are held in oppressive bondage within the territories of the United States. The general government have condemned its unna- tural and forced cruelty, and slavery is abo- SLAVERY. 213 lished at New York, and throughout the eastern States ; yet, by an ‘ Imperium in imperio,’ in the government of separate States, it exists from the city of Washington throughout the south- ern States. Its existence at all, must be considered, by every honest mind, as a national disgrace, and ‘forms a blot in the escutcheon of America which all the waters of the Atlantic cannot wash out.” Difficulties may exist, and emancipation may be gradual, but let it be pursued both by England and America, as abso- lutely necessary. “I tremble for my country,” said a late president of the United States, Mr. Jefferson, “I tremble for my country, when I reflect that God is just.”. Humanity may miti- | gate their sufferings, and habit render the slaves less sensible of their degradation, but their general state is truly pitiable, and that of severe affliction. ‘‘ Hark! heard ye not that piercing cry Which shook the waves and rent the sky ? E’en now, e’en now, on yonder western shores Weeps pale despair, and writhing anguish roars.” It is a melancholy fact that they find it more advantageous to breed slaves in the western parts of Virginia and Georgia, than to raise the appropriate produce of the soil, and there are 214 SLAVERY. seasons when many hundreds, if not thousands, are driven down like cattle to New Orleans for sale in the markets. In the more immediate want of slaves, advertisements like the follow- ing, which I copied froma Virginia Newspaper, under date of July, 1825, are frequently to be met with. ‘CASH FOR NEGROES.” « A liberal price to be paid for a few likely young Negroes, men and women,” &c. &e. And one of the papers advertized for sale, “‘ An excellent servant, 26 years old, with, or without a child, six months old.” “What is man? and what man seeing this, And having human feeling, does not blush, And hang his head, to think himself a man ?” It is in those changes, however, which are now spreading over the globe, that we look for an alteration in the brutalizing and cruel sys- tem of slavery. A system, which England and the United States never can perpetuate. The tide of the world is happily in opposition to it ; and the general wish of the people in Great Britain and America will, no doubt, by a suc- cession of steps, at length prevail. It is only by monopoly, that the slave system can be main- NEW YORK. 215 tained ; for in the more enlightened policy of governments in fostering the rising hberties of the world, all monopolies will cease. Free labour will be brought into competition, and found far more valuable than the labour of slaves ; and a free market will be opened to a fair competition in the sale of sugar, which will gradually knock off every fetter, and enfran- chise millions of our fellow men, who are now enslaved under the guilt of cruelty and injustice. The city of New York is in north latitude, about 40, and situated at the mouth of one of the finest rivers in the world, called the Hudson, which opens a free communication with Albany, and many other inland towns towards Canada, and the Lakes. The streets are long and regular, and the houses good: and it claims the pre-eminence of all other cities in the United States, as the London of America, from the extent of its population, excellent markets, and yielding in tonnage and customs to the Republic, nearly one half of its revenue. Except the City Hall, there are but few public buildings worthy of particular notice. As a favourite promenade, the Battery is deservedly so, though wanting space for the numbers who resort there on summer evenings.—A beautiful Bay expands before it, presenting to the eye 216 NEW YORK. vessels of every description arriving and sailing with every breeze that blows.—The inhabitants of this great commercial city strike the eye of a stranger, landing immediately from the opposite shores, as generally of a consumptive habit, wanting that healthy appearance, and florid complexion, which characterize the English. Mendicity was no where to be seen. I was never arrested by the voice of the beggar in the streets; nor is the eye or ear of the public at any time offended with profligate females, as in the metropolis of the mother country. Every where you see an active, inquisitive, enterprising people, and the whole state is flourishing in her internal improve- ments, to an extent unparalleled in any other state in the union. Religious Societies are upon the advance, and appear to be conducted with an increasing and well-directed zeal ; while the whole population of America, consisting of more than eleven millions, scattered over an extent of more than one million of square miles, is every hour becoming a more numerous, and a more reading population. The light of science and the arts is diffusing its influence through every part of the rapidly-growing Commonwealth ; while every facility is afforded to the instruction of the rising generation af CLIMATE. 217 large. ‘ We regard a general system of edu- cation (said an American orator) aS a wise and liberal system of policy, by which property, and life, and the peace of society are secured. We seek to prevent in some measure the ex- tension of the Penal Code, by giving sound and scriptural knowledge at an early age; and we hope for a security beyond the law, and above the law, in the prevalence of enlightened and well-principled moral sentiment.’ Nor is the education of the Indians neglected. It appears by an official statement, that ‘The American Government appropriates the sum of ten thou- sand dollars annually for their civilization, which is producing very beneficial effects, by improving the condition of the various Tribes in the United States ; already thirty-two Schools are established in the Indian nations, and for the most part are well-conducted, in which, during the past year, nine hundred and sixteen youths of both sexes, have been instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, and all the ordi- nary occupations of life. So large a body of well-instructed youths, of whom several hun- dred will annually return to their homes, cannot fail to effect a beneficial change in the condition of this unhappy race.’ The climate of New York is variable in the - 218 SUDDEN DEATHS. extremes of heat and cold, and must in a degree affect the constitution from the sudden transitions of the weather. The direct heat of the sun at the time of my arrival, was unusually great, and very oppressive. The thermometer stood at 97, and 98, in the shade, and ranged from 120, to 130, in the sun. In consequence of this excessive heat, a greater mortality pre- vailed, than ever ordinarily happened in the. city in one week before. Nearly sixty sud- den deaths occurred—thirty-three principally among the Irish labourers from drinking cold water, and others from apoplexy, and infiama- tion of the brain. So vast a country as America, extending on each side of the equator nearly from the north to the southern pole, must necessarily have every variation of soil, as of climate. From the richness of its natural productions, it has been justly called ‘A treasury of nature,’ holding out every en- couragement to industry, and all that can engage the enterprize of man. Should the people of this immense continent be formed eventually into great Independent States, they promise to become, in union, the most power- ful and happy people in the world. ‘ The eyes of the oppressed are even now turning wist- fully (says an able writer on the advancement BOSTON. 219 of society) to this land of freedom, and the kings of the continent already regard with awe and disquietude the new Rome rising in the west, the foreshadows of whose greatness yet to be, are extending dark and heavy over their dominions, and obscuring the lustre of their thrones.’ Leaving New York, I proceeded on my way to Boston, the cradle of the revolutionary war, | and ‘the head quarters of Unitarianism,’ a sentiment that prevails not only in this capital, but also in many towns in New England. The city, like that of New York, presents a flourish- ing population, and the style of buildings, manners, customs, and dress of the citizens indicate a refined and happy state of society. Boston, however, has much more the appear- ance of an English town, than New York; and the park, called ‘the Mall,’ consisting of more than forty acres, adds much to the beauty of the city, and the comfort of the inhabitants. There is an independent air, and coldness of manner, which at first prejudices travellers ; but the kindness and hospitality, with the good sense and intelligence, I generally met with, led me to conclude that some of my country- men had not stated correctly the American character. There is one peculiarity however 220 SALEM. in American habits, which is _ particularly offensive to strangers, that of spitting, from the use of tobacco. This nauseous custom is not confined to one class of persons, but is prac- tised by those, who, in every other respect, are gentlemen. ‘Travellers may also be annoyed at times, with the national foible of gascon- ading, which has led some of their acute and sensible men, to say jocosely, ‘that they expect their countrymen will soon begin to assert, that they are not only the most powerful, and the most learned, but the oldest nation in the world.’ The roads from Boston are as good as the turnpike roads of England, and such was the prevailing spirit of opposition among the coach proprietors, that we travelled some stages nearly at the rate of ten miles an hour. In passing through Salem, on my way to Portland, the capital of the State of Maine, the town recalled to my mind, the intolerant and persecuting spirit of the Puritans, towards their countrymen, who accompanied themas exiles to the shores of America, from the unrelenting severity and per- secution of Archbishop Laud, and the ftroublous times of Charles the First. These refugees crossed the Atlantic for the sake of liberty of conscience in matters of religion; but no sooner did some ~ EDUCATION. 221 of them obtain power in legislative assembly, than, by a strange infatuation, they denied to their brethren in the wilderness, the same indefeasible right and privilege. They re- newed, in the bigotry and narrow prejudices of their minds, the persecutions and tortures, which the primitive Christians had to endure ; and blindly supposed to effect that by cruelty and death, which their own experience should have convinced them could only be reached by persuasion, and altered by conviction. At the same time, numbers were tortured, hung, and exposed on gibbets, and many burnt to death, for the supposed crime of witchcraft; till at length, the minds of these deluded fanatics were seized with remorse, and a chain of events followed, which gave to the inhabitants of New England, the blessings of a diffusive education, and a full enjoyment of the freedom of religious opinion. Such indeed is the facility of instruction now afforded to every branch of - the community, through the means of district or parochial schools, that it is a rare cireum- stance to meet an individual who cannot read and write, and converse in an intelligent man- ner on all common subjects; or a driver of a stage, who will not ‘guess’ and ‘ calculate’ politics admirably. It is seldom that you hear 222 EDUCATION. the English language so badly spoken among those who hire themselves as ‘helps’ in families in America, as you do amongst servants in England. In the progress of refinement it was mentioned as afact, that ‘a young woman meet- ing lately a former fellow-servant, asked her how she liked her new place, ‘ Very well,’ was her reply ; ‘Then you have nothing to complain of?’ ‘Nothing,’ said she, ‘only master and mistress talk such very bad grammar.’ Their education and religious instruction have given the New Englanders so decided a cast of na- tional character, that they are distinguished among the Americans, like the Scots among Europeans, as a moral, intelligent, enterprizing people. Like the Americans in general, they are very fond of anniversaries, public meetings, ora- tions, and rejoicings, by which all classes are reminded of those events which. led to their independence. The term ‘ Yankee, is, in good humour, particularly applied to them, and is said to be derived from ‘ Yankoo,’ the name of a hostile tribe of Indians, who were overcome by the first settlers, to whom the vanquished chief gave the name, that it might not become extinct. It is from the true-born Yankees that the United States government PENOBSCOT BAY. 223 look principally for the supply of a hardy intrepid race of seamen for their navy. I met with no Indians till I reached Penob- scot Bay, in the neighbourhood of which is a tribe who have cultivated lands, and are sta- tionary the greater part of the year. Their numbers may be about two hundred and fifty ; and being of the Roman Catholic religion, as are all the Indians of the adjoining British provinces, they are visited by a minister of that persuasion, from Boston, every summer. An attempt has lately been made by an association of benevolent individuals to establish a Pro- testant school, with a view to teach them English, and rescue them from the thraldom of a superstitious and idolatrous faith; but this laudable attempt has failed for the present, through the opposition and influence of the Catholic priest. After this minister has spent some time with the Penobscot tribe, he pro- ceeds in his missionary excursion to visit that of Passamaquoddy, which consists of about the same number of souls, who live in a village, on a tongue of land called Point Pleasant, in the Bay of Passamaquoddy. I visited this Indian village, on my arrival at Eastport, a small town on the boundary line of America and the British territories, and was 224 INDIAN VILLAGE. courteously received by the Catholic priest, who happened then to be resident among the Indians. He showed me a small neat chapel, where he officiated, a neat dwelling-house be- longing to a chief called Saccho Beeson, and about twenty-five huts, which were very inferior and dirty in their arrangement. Near to these buildings is a log-house of about fifty feet long, where they meet to hold their ‘Talk’ on any public question that concerns them, and which is used also for their favourite amusement of dancing. In the course of conversation, I asked the Roman Catholic priest, whether he had any school for the instruction of the Indian children, and what he taught the Indians ? His reply was, that he had no school ; but showing me a manuscript copy of a prayer tothe Virgin Mary, and a form called ‘Confiteor,’ in the Indian language, he remarked, ‘ These, Sir, are what we teach the Indians.’ It was grati- fying to find that an experienced and zealous Protestant missionary was making an effort to improve the state of this tribe, who, like that of Penobscot, were under the degrading in- fluence of their religious creed. With a view to effect this, he had erected a school-house in the village, to afford gratuitous instruction in English, to those Indian children or adults, MISSIONARY. 225 who might regularly attend at the appointed school-hours. The missionary informed me that he had many scholars before the arrival of the Catholic priest, but afterwards the numbers were greatly diminished. He appeared, how- ever, determined to persevere in his benevolent and truly Christian labours, as he was supported by the high authorities, was patronized, and received pecuniary aid from the United States government and the government of the State of Maine. The Maine Missionary Society also encouraged him, in the hope of preventing that open opposition and direct influence which had been shown against the establishment of an English school among the Penobscot Indians. His plan was, in affording instruction to the children, to give to their parents implements of husbandry, to encourage them in the culti- vation of the soil; and I saw an acre of wheat which one of the chiefs had sown, on receiving the above assistance, with seed corn, that pro- mised to reward his active industry, by a plentiful crop. These Indians, though located within the boundary line of the United States, have intercourse with those of the British pro- vince of New Brunswick, and sometimes meet them on the river Saint John, to smoke the calumet, and brighten the chain of friendship. Q 226 LOYALISTS. Returning to Eastport, I took my passage in the steam-boat across the Bay of Fundy, and landed, through a protecting Providence, on the 8th of August, at Saint John, New Bruns- wick. ‘This city is situated on a rocky penin- sula, in latitude 45° 20’, and took its rise in the the year 1783, when the peace with America left the loyalists, who had followed the British standard, to seek an asylum in some part of the British dominions. It is stated that more than four thousand persons, men, women, and children, sailed from New York for the river Saint John, at that period. The coast was rugged, and the whole aspect of the country dreary and uninviting, as they landed on the point where the city now stands. Nothing was to be seen, but a few huts erected on the margin of a dark immense wilderness, and occasionally some of the natives, clothed principally with the skins of animals, particularly the moose-deer, which were then numerous in the forests. The situ- ation of these emigrants was of a very trying nature, as they had to undergo every privation and suffering during the rigours of the ensuing winter. The difficulties which they encoun- tered, in first clearing the lands, seemed for some time to be almost insurmountable; and this is generally the case with all first settlers, VALE OF SUSSEX. 227 who engage in the arduous enterprize of breaking into new and uncultivated wilds. They are often known to wear out their lives in toil and labour, for the benefit of those who - come after them, and who reap, comparatively speaking, where they have not sown. The flourishing state of the city, however, since it took its rise, in a few log and bark huts, about forty years ago, and the rising prosperity of numerous settlements, though confined prin- cipally as yet to the borders of rivers and well watered vallies, speak volumes 1n favour of the active, persevering, successful industry, and enterprizing spirit of the loyalists and people of the province, and of the advantageous fos- tering care of the British Government. I left Saint John the following morning after my arrival in the city, for the Vale of Sussex, which presents to the eye some beautifully picturesque views, on the river Kennebeckasis, as its tributary streams bend their course through some good and well cultivated farms. This settlement, in its first formation, was much indebted to the active energy and inde- pendent public spirit of the late Hon. George Leonard, who lived in a spacious and handsome residence in this pleasant valley.. Near to the village is a fine spring, from which salt of an Q 2 228 INDIANS. excellent quality is made, for the table and culinary purposes; and if the water were ana- lyzed, it would no doubt be found to possess some valuable medicinal qualities. This vale holds out every encouragement to increased industry and improvement, as it possesses many advantages in point of situation and fertility of soil, and has the great road of communication passing through it to the adjoining province of Nova Scotia. The Indians formerly resorted to it, in con- siderable numbers, it was their rendezvous in starting or returning from the chace ; but since the woods have been driven of animals, and the soil occupied or taken up by the settlers, they are seldom now seen on the track, in their wandering state of existence. In the hope of benefiting and improving their condition, an establishment was formed in the valley, by the New England Company, soon after the first settlement of the province, called, ‘ The Academy for instructing and civ- ilizing the Indians.’ It was liberally placed, by the incorporated Society in London, under the management and direction of a board of commissioners, that consisted of the leading authorities of the province. Little or no ad- vantage, however, accrued to the Indians from INDIANS. 229 those plans which were adopted at the Academy for meliorating their state, and, in the terms of the charter, ‘To propagate and advance the Christian and Protestant religion among them.’ For a series of years every attempt failed, in the way of effecting any permanent change, or producing any substantial good among. this degraded portion of our fellow-men ; for after the Company had incurred a heavy expense, they reverted to their migratory habits of life, and again fell under the influence of the Roman Catholic priests. Nor has the more recent plan of the Establishment, as recommended to the Society at home, by the Board of Comis- sioners in the province, been attended with much better success towards civilizing and raising the Indians in the moral scale of being. The principle that was adopted, of apprenticing their children, at an early age, to different settlers, I found was not generally approved by the Indians themselves, nor has the plan proved beneficial to their morals. Under these circumstances, the New England Company have resolved upon breaking up the establish- ment, and would seek, in the application of their funds, for further good than they have heretofore met with among our Red brethren of the wilderness. 230 INDIANS. It is not by such means, however, nor any similar forced process that has been acted upon, nor any means that compel them to be “ hewers of wood and drawers of water,’ in a menial capacity, that a just expectation can be raised of any conversion in their state. Their natur- ally high and independent spirit must be con- sulted in the attempt to do them good; and this is best done by encouraging them, on all favourable occasions, to become settlers on their own lands, or lands which in common justice should be assigned to them, as the original proprietors of the soil. An Indian sees acutely all the relative stations in society, and feels keenly the contempt with which he is often treated by white people, on account of the colour of his skin. A short time ago, Saccho Beeson, a chief of the Passamaquoddy tribe, accompanied a deputation of Indians to a convention in the state of Maine, for the pur- pose of asserting their right of property in the land where they were located. At the house of accommodation they were put into a back room for the night, with a small bit of a candle, where the boots of a considerable number of persons, who had arrived for the meeting, were left. The next day this spirited chief com- plained to the assembly, how badly Indians INDIANS. 231 were accommodated ; and being asked to state what he had to complain of, said, ‘ Boots too. much, and light too little.’ _ The Indians, not being encouraged to inter- marry or mix with white people on terms of equality, have receded as a distinct people, or have been driven before those who have car- ried commerce, with civilization, far into the wilderness and lands of their forefathers. And. it cannot be otherwise than affecting to an honest and feeling mind, to recollect the way in which Europeans first obtained a footing in. their country, and the possession of their patri-. mony. ‘ You look sorry, brother, said an. American general to an Indian chief, who was. on a visit to the city of New York, ‘Is there any thing to distress you?’ ‘TIL tell you,. brother,’ said he, ‘I have been looking at your. beautiful city, the great water, your fine country, and see how happy you all are. But then, I could not help thinking, that this fine country, and this great water, were once our’s. Our ancestors lived here; they enjoyed it as their own, in peace; it was the gift of the Great Spirit to them and their children. At last the white people came here in a great canoe ; they asked only to let them tie it to a tree, lest the water should carry it away: we 232 INDIANS. consented. They then said, some of their people were sick, and they asked permission to land them, and put them under the shade of the tree. The ice then came, and they could not go away; they then begged a piece of land to build wigwams for the winter: we granted it. They then asked for some corn, to keep them from starving: we kindly furnished it. They promised to go away when the ice was gone; when this happened, we told them they must now go away with their big canoe; but they pointed to their big guns around their wigwams, and said they would stay there; and we could not make them go away. Afterwards more came. They brought spirituous and in- toxicating liquors, of which the Indians became very fond. They persuaded us to sell them some land. Finally they drove us back from time to time into the wilderness, far from the water, the fish, and the oysters. They have destroyed our game, our people are wasted away, and we live miserable and wretched, while you are enjoying our fine and beautiful country. This makes me sorry, brother, and J cannot help it.’ : It would be a long and a heart-rending tale, to recount the various acts of cruelty, rapacity, and injustice, with which they have been gen- INDIANS. 233 erally treated by Europeans, since they first invaded their forests and usurped their soil. ‘Society, says Washington Irving, ‘ has ad- vanced upon them like a many-headed monster, breathing every variety of misery. Before it went forth pestilence, famine, and the sword ; and in its train came the slow but exterminating curse of trade: what the former did not sweep away, the latter has gradually blighted.’ But we would turn from the sad review of what has passed in the history of these long injured aboriginal tribes, and indulge the hope that a just sympathy has at length been awakened towards those who remain, as claim- ing not only the commiseration, but the moral and religious care of Great Britain and America. The partial success which has indeed followed the occasional efforts of the American govern- ment for the civilization of the Indians, de- monstrates the fact, and confirms to the utmost, that it is practicable to civilize, and evangelize this, hitherto, generally neglected, and suffer- ing portion of our fellow-men. Let spirituous liquors be prohibited from deluging their country in the prosecution of an unequal traffic. Let their tomahawk and _ scalping knife never again be pressed into any contest whatever on the part of professed Christians. Let them be met with brotherly kindness, and 234 INDIANS. with active and generous exertion to benefit their condition, by aiding their own efforts, and promoting their location in every pos- sible way ; then, may we look for the solitude of the remaining wilderness to be broken, in the establishment of Indian villages, and Indian settlements. Tribe after tribe, and nation after nation, have heretofore vanished away, and no wonder,—from the system of exclusion and oppression that has been acted upon towards them by the whites ; who have treated them as outcasts, and placed them in the scale of humanity, so low, and so distant, as for the most part to exclude them from their sympathy. But why should the North Ame- rican Indian be thought incapable of that moral, civil, and religious elevation, which has been experienced by the South Sea Islanders, the natives of Greenland, and of the Cape? There is nothing in their nature, nor is there any deficiency in their intellect, that should consign them to perpetual degradation, and to that cold-blooded philosophy, and infidel sen- timent, of ‘Let them alone;—to take mea- sures to preserve the Indians, is to take measures to preserve so much barbarity, helplessness, and want; and therefore do not resist the order of Providence which is carrying them away !° CHAPTER II. IN DIANS.—BELLEISLE STRAITS.—MIRAMICHI DESTROYED BY FIRE.—BAY OF ANNAPOLIS NOVA SCOTIA.——-INDIANS. —FUR TRADE.——ADELAH.--MISSIONARIES.—NEGRO VIL~ LAGE.—AMERICAN COLONIZATION SOCIETY.—- RETURN TO NEW BRUNSWICK.—-FREDERICSTOWN.—-POPULATION OF NEW BRUNSWICK.—CLIMATE.—THE SOCIETY FOR THE PROPAGATION OF THE GOSPEL.—BAPTISM.—ITINERANT PREACHING, AFTER a short residence at Sussex Vale, I set off in the discharge of my mission, on a visit to the Indians along the eastern shore of the Province; and travelled in a light waggon, drawn by one horse, though they are sometimes drawn by two horses abreast, as the usual mode of travelling in the country. I founda few Indian families in the neighbourhood of Shediac, and these of the Micmac tribe. Some of this nation are to be met with in the whole line of coast, lying between Bay Verte, and Chaleur Bay, on the gulf of Saint Lawrence. A few who have intermarried with the French, are become stationary with them in villages 236 INDIANS. at, or near Buctouche, Richibucto, Miramichi, and at other points along the shore. But the greater part of them are met wandering from one settlement to another, squalid and dis- pirited, under circumstances of great com- miseration. Their strength is enervated, and their diseases are multiplied, through the pre- vailing habits of idleness and drunkenness ; which have sunk them far below the true Indian character. They are reduced to a po- verty that is unknown to them in their native wilds, and which corrodes, like a canker, their very hearts. ‘They are of the Roman Catholic persuasion, as are the Indians of the adjoining territory in Lower Canada, and are so dis- ciplined, that many of them wear the crucifix fastened over the right shoulder, so as to hang upon the left breast, near the heart. Such is the influence of the Priests, that they regulate their marriages, appoint certain times in the year for them to collect, and attend their superstitious ceremonies, and at the same time supply them with a form, or instruct them in an idolatrous act of worship to the Virgin Mary in their camps.—It does not appear that any of the natives have crossed the Gulf, to the opposite coast of Newfoundland; or that there are any savages who dwell among the rocks, MIRAMICHI DESTROYED BY FIRE. 237 and traverse the inland and unknown parts of that island, throughout the year, Newfoundland being separated from the shores of Labrador only by a channel of moderate breadth, known by the name of Belleisle Straits, it is more than probable, that hunting parties of Esquimaux Indians, like those met with in Hudson’s Straits, pass over for the hunting season, and return to that dreary continent for the winter. I could not but reflect with gratitude, on escaping, in my tour along the coast, from that dreadful conflagration, which raged for a hun- dred miles or more in width, and destroyed Miramichi, and the surrounding Settlements, on the night of October the 7th. I had deter- mined upon a visit to the above town, but was providentially prevented reaching it ; and had scarcely returned to the vale, before the atmos- phere became so dense with smoke, which pre- vailed throughout the Province, as to excite fearful apprehensions, that large fires were ap- -proaching us in the woods. Almost every one ran occasionally to the door, under the expec- tation of seeing the flames burst forth; nor were our fears allayed, till the air became clear, and the surrounding country opened again to our view. Then the melancholy tale reached us of the above dreadful calamity; and we 238 MIRAMICHI DESTROYED BY FIRE. found that a fire had also nearly destroyed Fredericstown, the seat of Government, together with the Government House, the residence of His Excellency, the Lieut. Governor of the Province. On the day preceding the destruc- tive visitation at Miramichi, the air was clouded with smoke, and it was intensely close, but no particular alarm was felt by the inhabitants, till a rumbling noise was heard to the north of the Settlement ; which increased rapidly during a dead calm and pitchy darkness that prevailed, about half-past seven on the following night. The calm however was soon disturbed by the rushing of a strong breeze, bringing with it some sparks and cinders of the sweeping devas- tation that was swiftly approaching. A violent hurricane almost instantaneously followed, pouring down upon the town immense masses of flames, ashes, and hot sand, to its immediate ruin, and that of the adjoining Settlements. To describe the scene (said an eye witness) at this awful period, is beyond the power of language. It resembled more the immediate interposition of the hand of the Almighty, than the rage of the elements, in an ordinary state of convulsion. The fiames were of such magnitude, and withal so furious, that they seemed unlike the fires of this world; when ever they grasped a building, MIRAMICHI DESTROYED BY FIRE. 239 instantaneous destruction was the consequence; men were seen trembling with fear, and women shrieking, ran with their children to the shore, in the hope of escaping the destroying element on rafts, logs, or any buoyant article that might float them. At the same time was heard the bellowing of the terrified cattle, and the roaring of the flames; these, together with the general illumination, presented a spectacle which ima- gination would fail to describe. The hurricane raged so tremendously at some points, that large bodies of burning timber, and parts of the flarning houses, were carried to the rivers with astonishing velocity, and so affected the water, as to occasion, in the shallow places, large quan- tities of salmon, and other fish, to spring on the shore. ‘They were seen afterwards lying along the sand, by hundreds, and many human bodies also, that had been burnt, and drowned in the wide and terrible devastation. Property to the amount of about three hundred thousand pounds is stated to have been destroyed; but what is property, when compared with the lives of nearly two hundred persons who were de- voured by the flames, or perished by the waters ? The awful catastrophe speaks volumes, and is well calculated to excite enquiries for cur sal- vation, at the final audit which will suddenly 240 MIRAMICHI DESTROYED BY FIRE. take place, with “ the crush of matter and wreck of worlds.” St. Paul drew such a vivid repre- sentation of that day, that Felix as a wicked Prince, trembled upon his throne. His mind bore testimony to the fact of a future judgment, which is described by St. Peter, with the con- flagration of the earth, in such majesty of style, that we almost see the flames ascending into the midst of Heaven, feel the elements melting with fervent heat, and hear the groans of a world expiring in universal ruin. What must have been the apprehensions of those who witnessed the tremendous scene, whilst standing in dread alarm, lest they should fall victims to the fury of the devouring flames! Surely indifference must have been roused to consideration, and infidelity turned pale with astonishment and terror. Under such circum- stances of dismay, how heart-cheering and supporting must have been the belief and con- templation of a refuge from this, and every subsequent infliction of divine vengeance, a refuge which that God “ who rides in the whirl- wind and directs the storm,” has himself pro- vided in the mediation and atonement of Jesus Christ. How strongly is the contemplative mind which dwells on the distressing tale car- ried forward to a more tremendous event, to a BAY OF ANNAPOLIS, NOVA SCOTIA. 241 more enduring storm of which all shall be eye- witnesses, and in which all shall be personally concerned. At that appalling season when those who passed the hours of life in careless indifference, shall be crying, Help! Help! against the terrors of the Lord; then shall every one who has fied to Him as the refuge from the wrath to come, find in that refuge an adequate shelter from that last, the decisive storm. In the month of October, I took the Packet Boat from St. John, to the bay of Annapolis, Nova Scotia. This peninsula was originally called Acadia, by the French, who began a Settlement in it as early as 1604, before they took possession, or had built the smallest hut in Canada. On their first arrival they found the country, and the neighbouring forests, peopled with small nations of Indians, who went under the common name of Abenakies. They were generally of more sociable manners, though equally fond of raising the war-whoop with other Indian nations. The fur trade was soon opened with these natives, and the Church of Rome was not idle in sending Missionaries among them, for the purpose of propagating her Faith. Every Jesuitical means was used, and that successfully, in bringing them to a R 242 INDIANS. profession of the Roman Catholic religion. Far better had it been, however, that the Indians had never known the French, than ardent spirits should have been introduced, as a me- dium of barter in the fur trade. It was no sooner tasted by the natives, than they became passionately fond of it, and spirituous liquors were found to be the most pernicious and des- tructive article that the old world ever shipped for the new. It appeared impossible for them to use it with moderation ; and when intoxicated, it awakened every savage disposition, that led to quarrels, which frequently terminated in the murder of husbands, wives, and children. The French, prompted by avarice, extended this evil, as they afterwards took possession of, and planted trading posts, in the Canadas, for the prosecution of the fur trade. Others followed, and engaged in the same traffic ; and the bane- ful effects of bartering in spirituous liquors, is seen in the track of the fur trader, as he opened a communication with the Indians, through successive periods, far into the interior, and immense wildernesses of North America. The present Indians of Nova Scotia, are all one nation, known by the name of Micmacs, and were among other natives the original in- habitants of the country. They are by no means INDIANS. 243 numerous, and are fast diminishing in numbers, as they wander, like those of New Brunswick, in extreme wretchedness, and detached parties, throughout the Province. Many of them are found along the Annapolis River, who encamp | at the entrance of the bay, for the purpose of shooting porpoises, during the season in sum- mer. They are very expert in killing this ani- mal, as it rises upon the water, which isa great source of amusement as well as of profit. It supplies them with food, and were they not altogether regardless of to-morrow, the oil which they obtain in boiling the fish, might be the means of furnishing them with many neces- saries in barter, for the winter. I reached the camp soon after this season was over, and the Indians had returned from a successful excur- sion, in hunting the moose-deer in the neigh- bouring woods. Their chief, Adelah, isa person of very sober habits, and naturally of a pene- trating, sagacious mind. He had visited Eng- land, and expressed much regret that he did not see his great father, with the four Canadian chiefs, who were in London, and introduced to the king, in the spring of 1825. The conscious independence of an Indian, will sometimes lead him to speak of monarchs as his equal: and though he acknowledges, R 2 244 MISSIONARIES. that some have more power, or are heads of larger tribes than himself, yet such is his native pride, and freedom of manners, that he would enter a palace with as much ease as a fisherman’s hut. The wild range of the woods, and the waters which expand to his view, are the open and free source from whence, by his own exer- tions, he derives a supply for his wants. He naturally possesses a high degree of self-import- ance; he differs greatly in sentiment and opi- nion, and in his mode of life, from civilized man, who is under the influence of artificial wants; as well as from those who derive a pre- carious subsistance, in confirmed habits of dependence upon others. It cannot then be reasonably expected that a high independent chief will leave, with his tribe, the full range of their liberty through the forests and the plains, and enter the pale of civilization with the whites, through any means of servitude and subjection, or seek to adopt their habits and sentiments, without a steady encouragement, and a certainty of enjoying all their rights and privileges. Whena Missionary Society in Scot- land sent two Missionaries for propagating the Gospel to the Delaware nation of Indians, the chiefs assembled in council, and. after delib- erating for fourteen days, sent back the Mis- MISSIONARIES. 245 sionaries very courteously, with the following answer: ‘ They rejoiced exceedingly at our happiness in being thus favoured by the Great Spirit, and felt very grateful that we had con- descended to remember our brethren in the wilderness. But they could not help recollect- ing that we had a people among us, who because they differed from us in colour, we had made slaves of, and made them suffer great hardships, and lead miserable lives. Now they could not see any reason, if a people being black entitled us thus to deal with them, why a red colour would not equally justify the same treatment. They therefore had determined to wait, to see whether all the black people amongst us were made thus happy, and joyful, before they could put confidence in our promises ; for they thought a people who had suffered so much, and so long, by our means, should be entitled to our first attention ; that therefore they had sent back the two missionaries, with many thanks, pro- mising, that when they saw the black people - among us restored to freedom and happiness, they would gladly receive our missionaries.’ Adelah, however, expressed a great desire to settle with his tribe, on lands for which he had often made application, as contiguous to their fishing and hunting grounds, but which he had 246 ADELAH. not then obtained. His country, he said, was getting very poor, and the soil almost all taken up by people who came to it, which made him wish to raise some produce from the land, and see his Indians, with their families, in better circumstances. “I go,” he remarked, “ once more about the grant, may be they think I come too often, perhaps turn their back, then I turn my back, and never ask again.” This intelligent chief would often take me into his canoe, during my visit to his tribe, and in the course of conversation, frequently sur- prised me with his pertinent and striking re- marks on the subject of religion. He expressed much surprise, and difficulty, at the many different denominations among Protestant Christians, which he had heard of. ‘There,’ said he, pointing to a small cove in the Bay, as he was paddling his canoe along shore one morning, ‘I saw five or six persons plunged for baptism, a short time ago.’ Then holding up the paddle, he added, as the water dripped from it, ‘I think the Great Spirit can as easily bless that small quantity for the purpose, as he can all the water in the basin around us.’ He is a decided Roman Catholic, as are all the Indians of the Province; and a circumstance occurred in the death of a child, while I was EDUCATION. 247 in the camp, which proved how strongly the Priests have entrenched them within the pale of their bigotry and dominion. I offered to bury the child, as they knew me to be a Priest, but they refused, with the remark, that it must be buried by their Priest; and the mother of the deceased child took the corpse upon her back, and carried it the distance of thirty miles to the French village of Sissaboo, where the Priest resided, for burial. I merely observed to Adelah, on this occasion, that I supposed Indians were all of the Roman Catholic re- ligion, he said ‘ yes, adding, ‘you know in England, quakers, when born, all come little quakers, so Indians, al! come little Catholics.’ This being the case with the Indians of Nova Seotia, and New Brunswick, it would be look- ing upon a narrow horizon, not to perceive great difficulties in the way of affording them instruction in the English language, and seek- ing to propagate and advance the Christian and Protestant religion among them. Though of a Christian profession, they remain shrouded from the light of truth, from the Roman Cath- olic Priests being opposed to their receiving instruction in public schools, and to their being in possession of the Bible. Under these cireum- stances, every moral obstacle presents itself in 248 EDUCATION. seeking to relieve their wandering wretchedness, and suffering degradation. ‘The powers that be,’ however, owe them all necessary assistance and protection, in their location on lands, that should be unalienably reserved as their own property, for the purpose of civilized life. And should benevolent exertions be made with a view to promote their best interests, let them be directed in the charitable attempt, yet by no means, forlorn hope, of effecting a change in the condition of these Indians. School-houses should be erected wherever they can be induced to settle, and teachers appointed, who would need a religious motive to cause them to per- severe in their truly arduous task, whilst acting towards them as their protectors, advisers, friends, and assistants in agricultural pursuits. By adopting such a system, with a view to benefit a long injured race of men, a national obligation would be discharged, charity would be duly exercised, and sound, scriptural, prac- tical information imparted to them. Educa- tion, as it advanced, in conveying the elements of real knowledge, would effectually destroy, through the divine blessing, the elements of superstition, and change that turn of mind on which superstition is founded. Near to the Indian camp was a village of AMERICAN COLONIZATION SOCIETY. 249 people of colour, or negroes, who are found in considerable numbers with their families in different parts of both provinces. 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