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SWEET PEAS
UP-TO-DATE

BURPEE'S FIERY CROSS
SWEET PEA

PUBLISHED IN 1917 BY

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.

SEED GROWERS
PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA

1. HEX! BUS

SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE

BY G. W. KERR

COUNTESS SPENCER SWEET PEA.

Grown by JAMES W. NAIRN, Truro, Nova Scotia, who sends the charming
photograph from which this engraving has been reproduced.

SWEET PEAS
UP-TO-DATE

WITH" A COMPLETE DESCRIPTION
OF ALL KNOWN VARIETIES, IN-
CLUDING NOVELTIES FOR 1917

BY G. W. KERR

PUBLISHED IN 1917 BY

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.

SEED GROWERS, PHILADELPHIA

COPYRIGHT, 1910, 1914, 1916, AND 1917, BY W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co.
PHILADELPHIA, PA.

All rights reserved

Agric.

PREFACE

WE were well pleased with the reception accorded our re-
vised edition of Sweet Peas Up-To-Date when published
in 1910, but since the list of varieties contained therein
was compiled so great has been the interest of hybridizers
and specialists in this beautiful flower, that new varieties
have been offered the public in bewildering numbers,
with the result that to keep our book really "up-to-date"
we feel that it is necessary to publish this new edition.

Sweet Peas are a great specialty with us, neither
time nor money being spared in our endeavors to test
and try out all novelties as they are offered by European
and other Sweet Pea specialists. Our Sweet Pea trials
at Fordhook Farms in 1913 numbered 1133, many of
these being duplicated on Burpee's Floradale Farm in
California. We are thus enabled to find out for our-
selves just which varieties are worthy of perpetuating
and offering to our customers and friends.

We have — at Fordhook — for the past eight years
been hybridizing the original winter-flowering varieties,
viz.: Burpee's Earliest of All (Christmas Pink), Burpee's
Earliest Sunbeams, Burpee's Earliest White, Burpee's
Re-selected Earliest of All, and Yarrawa, with the finest
varieties of Spencers, with a view to evolving a new race
of early or winter-flowering Spencers, and we are now
able to say that we have accomplished this even beyond
our most sanguine expectations, as we have now winter-
flowering Spencers in many exquisite colors, a number of
which we are offering this season; others will be intro-
duced as we work up sufficient "trued" stocks. We
anticipate that in the near future we will have this in-
valuable type to offer in all the colors now found in the
summer-flowering varieties.

W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co.

Fordhook Farms, December n, 1916.

5

385919

INTRODUCTION

"THE Sweet Pea has a keel that was meant to seek all
shores; it has wings that were meant to fly across all
continents; it has a standard which is friendly to all
nations; and it has a fragrance like the universal Gos-
pel : yea, a sweet prophecy of welcome everywhere that
has been abundantly fulfilled/'

So said the REV. W. T. HUTCHINS, the well-known
Sweet Pea enthusiast, when attending the Sweet Pea
Bi-centenary Celebration in London in 1900; and his
words sound almost like a prophecy — a prophecy that
has indeed been abundantly fulfilled.

As far as we can learn the Sweet Pea is a native
of Sicily, and we read that in 1699 FRANCISCUS CUPANI,
an Italian monk, sent seeds to England, and so was
begun the culture of Sweet Peas.

Although there were several distinct colors in cul-
tivation, no great advancement was made until the
late HENRY ECKFORD, of Wem, Shropshire, England,
in 1870 started his great life work on Sweet Peas.
Since then the development of this lovely and fragrant
flower has been one of the floral wonders of the age.

The late THOMAS LAXTON, of Bedford, England, also
worked on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, starting
in 1877. His Invincible Carmine was certificated in
1883, being the first recorded result of cross-fertilization,
and since then many florists have assisted in carrying
on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, America being
to the front as usual, many charming and refined va-
rieties being distributed by W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co.
and other American seedsmen, and quite three-fourths

6

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

of the Sweet Pea seed used each year all over the world
is grown in this country.

Had any one sixteen years ago said that the Sweet
Pea would become within the next few years the most
popular flower of the day, he would have been laughed
at, and yet this has now become an/i££omplished fact.

I can well remember when the first "Sweet Pea
Show" in England was planned (that was in '1900).
Although I was a great admirer of the Sweet Pea and
had seen and grown all the new varieties as they were
introduced, I simply laughed at the idea of holding a
show of Sweet Peas alone — and I was only a unit among
the many scoffers at the project. But, thanks to those
at the helm, the first show at the Crystal Palace, London,
was held, and turned out to be such a success that since
that year the Sweet Pea Society has held its annual
Show, and now the National Sweet Pea Society is among
the most flourishing of the "one flower" societies; and
it is impossible to describe to those who nave not at-
tended any of their exhibitions the enthusiasm which
prevails among the exhibitors, the immensity of the
Show and the exquisite exhibits from the trade growers:
flowers of the largest size with stems eighteen inches to
two feet long, the long lines of decorated tables, and,
last but not least, the novelties. Of course, the novel-
ties are not all gems of the first water, but no Show
passes without some great improvement in color or
form appearing. The Aquarium Show of 1901 will
long be remembered, as it was there that Silas Cole, of
Althorp Gardens, Northampton, first exhibited his
glorious "Countess Spencer/' which was three years
later introduced by the late MR. ROBERT SYDENHAM,
of Birmingham. The "Countess Spencer" was such

7

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

an improvement in size and of a form so distinctly new,
the immense standard and wings being beautifully
frilled and waved, that it created a perfect sensation
at the Show, but since the advent of its introduction in
1904 the new waved or orchid-flowered varieties have
been added to considerably, these being either sports
from the popular Countess Spencer, or the results of
the careful hybridist.

The first "Spencer" sports to appear were John
Ingman and Helen Lewis, followed by Mrs. Charles
Foster and Mrs. Charles Mander. Since then many
new colors have been evolved, a list of which is given
on pages 45 to 72.

About the time that Mr. Cole brought out Countess
Spencer the same variety was found as a sport in that
fine old grandiflora variety, Prima Donna, by Mr. Viner,
of Frome, Somerset, and W. J. UNWIN, of Histon, Cam-
bridge, also found a sport in Prima Donna, and this he
called Gladys Unwin. It is also of the wavy type and
of much the same shade of pink as Countess Spencer,
but the flowers do not come quite so large. /

I must also chronicle the advent of the harly or
Winter-flowering Spencer Sweet Pea. The American
varieties of this new type are all the result of careful
crosses, but some four or five years ago the great Aus-
tralian variety, Yarrawa, appeared in that country as a
direct mutation or sport from a summer flowering Spen-
cer. This is a most valuable race, especially for Winter
forcing under glass, though it is also useful for winter
and spring flowering in the open in all f rostless countries,
and at least a few of them should be included in all
Sweet Pea collections, even in our Northern States, to
prolong the flowering season.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

The merest novice in gardening realizes that^fhe
Sweet Pea is the most popular annual now cultivated,
and this is not to be wondered at when we consider
all its qualities: first, there is the primary question of
cost, when for a few cents we can have a row right
around our garden or clumps among our shrubs — and
what other flower will give us such glorious results so
cheaply? Then, as to cultivation. The Sweet Pea
will succeed in practically any good garden soil, though
extra cultivation will well repay the grower. And,
again, what flower gives us such a multitude of ex-
quisite colors and shades of colors combined with such
delicate and thrilling fragrance as our "Queen of All
Annuals" — the regal Sweet Pea? And yet another
great quality in its favor is that the more flowers you
cut from the vines, the longer and more continuously
will the plants continue to bloom. • In fact, by not allow-
ing any seed pods to set, followed up with high-class
cultivation, Sweet Peas will continue to flower for quite
three months, and in some locations even longer.

I would draw the attention of all Sweet Pea lovers
to the claims of4tTe American Sweet Pea Society, which
was organized July 7, 1909.

This society has held a most successful exhibition
and convention each year since its organization and a
number of interesting and instructive bulletins have
been issued to all its members. ^£- —

Full information regarding the society may be had
from W. Atlee Burpee & Company.

To those who are unacquainted with the different
varieties I would specially recommend the collections
put up by W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co., and offered at very
moderate prices. For instance you can have a large

9

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

packet each of six first-class sorts for 25 cents, — thirteen
varieties for 50 cents. While the dollar-box collection
of finest Spencer varieties is great value. Full partic-
ulars of the above will be found in the current year's
" Burpee's Annual/' copy of which will gladly be sent
on application.

G. W. KERR.

Fordbook Farms, November 22, 1917.

SOIL AND PREPARATION

ANY ordinary garden soil will suit Sweet Peas, pro-
vided the following points are observed:

FIRST. The ground should be drained or the soil
be of such a nature that in a season of excessive rains
the water will not lie and so cause the roots to rot,
or start mildew among the plants.

SECOND. The seeds should be sown in such a
position that no excessive shade shall interfere with
the sturdy growth of the vines, as too much shade
encourages a spindly and weak vine, with few, if any,
flowers. You should choose, therefore, a spot in your
garden right in the open, where your plants may have
all the available light and air, though a little shade
from the scorching mid-day suns of June and July
will be found most beneficial.

Soils cultivated and prepared as for your vegetable
plot will give fair results, but for this, the Queen of
all our annual plants, a little extra care and selection
of soil will be well repaid by the additional size of
flower, longer stems, better color, and prolonged period
of blooming.

Whatever may be the composition of your soil,
a start should be made in the fall of the year by trench-
ing it to a depth of from two to three feet. Should
the subsoil be poor, it would be absurd to bring it to
the surface, but it should be broken up, turned over,
and mixed with any old garden refuse or stable litter.
Thoroughly mix with the second spit a liberal quantity
of half decayed stable or cow manure — the latter for

ii

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

preference if the soil is light — adding a good dressing
of bone meal as the work proceeds. The top spit should
be filled in as rough as possible (at the same time mix-
ing with the soil thoroughly rotted manure) and left so
all winter, that the frost, snow, and rain may have a
better chance of exerting their mellowing influences
upon the soil. Should the under spits be very light,
1 would recommend that it should be taken out of the
trench and replaced with soil of heavier substance. '

If the land is very heavy, with a clay subsoil, long,
stable litter and rough material from the garden rub-
bish heap should be incorporated with the subsoil \frhich
is broken up, as this will help materiallv to drain and
sweeten the trench, and farm-yard manur# road sweep-
ings, and wood ashes will help to lighten the top spits,
adding bone meal as recommended above. ^

While on the subject of trenching, we ought to ex-
plain that where the Sweet Peas are to be planted in
rows the trench should be taken out at least two feet
wide and the rows should be five feet apart.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground in early
spring and the soil is in a nice, dry condition, the rows
should have a fairly heavy coating of superphosphate
of lime (acid phosphate), which can be forked or raked
into the soil and all made ready for planting. Care
should be taken that the soil is not too loose, as in this
condition it would be apt to dry up quickly during the
summer; therefore, if it is loose and open, get it con-
solidated by forking and treading, but do not attempt
to work the trench until it is quite dry. [/

Soils deficient in lime will be greatly benefited by a
good dusting of fresh lime put on in the early spring,
using it as soon as slaked. On ground that has been

12

SOWING AND PLANTING

heavily manured for Some years this application will be
found most beneficial, as it combines with the organic
matter contained therein, thereby setting free much
plant food that was not previously available to the
crops.

Where it has been found impossible to trench the
ground in the fall, this operation should be commenced
as early as possible in the spring, but in this case only
oUJ, wellrdecomposed manure should be utilized, using
t^one meal and superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate)
as recommended above.

- SOWING AND PLANTING

'<ow

To those .w&; want the very best results we say sow
your Sweet Pea seeds in pots. This should be done in
January or February, according to location, using pots
of three and one-half or four inches diameter. A
suitable compost for this consists of turfy loam, leaf
soil, and a little sand, all thoroughly mixed. A little
of the roughest of the turf should be placed on top of
the crocks to insure perfect drainage, afterwards filling
the pot to within an inch and a half of the top. Then
put in an inch layer of sharp sand into which the seed
should be sunk half an inch, the use of the sand being
to prevent the seed rotting ere germinating, as many
seed so often do when sown in heavier soil. Four seeds
will be quite sufficient for each pot, making all firm and
labeling each variety as it is sown. The pots should then
be placed in a frame or cool greenhouse as near the
light as possible, so that the growth will be kept sturdy
and dwarf. The frame or greenhouse bench on which
the pots are to stand should be thoroughly cleaned and

13

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

afterwards given a thorough dusting of soot or lime to
kill all insects, or keep them at bay. When the young
vines are two or three inches tall, insert a few twigs in
the pots to keep them in an upright position.

After the first thorough soaking to settle soil and
seeds, great care should be taken not to overdo the
subsequent waterings, as in the event of sharp frosts,
should the Peas be in an unheated structure, there
is always the danger of the young plants getting frosted.
In severe weather the careful grower will always see
that the frame is covered and protected from night
frosts.

When the young plants are well through the soil,
air should be given on all favorable occasions, and if
the plants have been 'started in heat they should be
now removed to a cold frame. As spring advances
the sashes should be entirely removed during the
brightest part of the day, keeping them off night and
day as "planting out time" approaches. According
to locality and weather conditions prevailing at the
time, the young plants should be put out from early
March to early May.

One pot will be found sufficient to form a good
clump, and some growers favor this method of growing
Sweet Peas — the ground for the clump having been
prepared by taking out the soil to a depth of about
three feet by three feet and preparing it as before ex-
plained for the row system.

When planting in rows each potful should be planted
about eighteen inches apart in the row. Place the
entire ball of soil with plants and twigs — taking care
to keep all intact with the exception of loosening the

.4

SOWING OUT OF DOORS

mass of roots at the base — in the hole previously pre-
pared for its reception. If the plants are well watered
the day before planting, the ball of soil will be more
likely to remain entire when knocked out of the pot.
Should the weather be very dry at the time of planting,
it may be found advisable to give the newly trans-
planted vines a thorough watering, and this will like-
wise help to settle the soil about the roots.

A good ring of soot (which should be collected dur-
ing the season from the stove-pipe) put on the soil
round the plants will now be of the greatest possible
benefit in warding off insects, and even a slight dusting
of the same material over the young vines has been
used also to advantage.

SOWING OUT OF DOORS

Those who have not the conveniences — or, perchance,
think it too much trouble — for the pot method of
Sweet Pea culture should sow Jhe seeds as early in the
Spring as soil and weather conditions will allow.
Whether the ground has been prepared as advised in
a previous chapter or simply dug over one spit deep,
the procedure is the same.

A small trench or furrow about four inches deep
should be taken out and the seed sown evenly, using
about one ounce of seed to a fifteen-foot row, — covering
with two inches of soil. After covering make the sur-
face soil fairly firm and finish all by putting a good
dusting of soot along the row, as this will keep away
birds and insects.

When the seedlings are about two inches high, thin
out the young plants, leaving one to every six inches,
as this will be found quite sufficient to give you a good,

15

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

thrifty row, allowing the air and light to circulate
freely among the growing vines, giving more room to
the gross feeding and deep searching roots, the natural
results being larger flowers, longer stems, better color,
and more flowers. As the young vines grow, the soil
should be hoed up to them on either side, thus strength-
ening the plants and keeping them in an upright posi-
tion, while the slight trench thus made on either side of
the row is of great benefit when watering the plants dur-
ing a dry spell, or, on the other hand, it acts as a natural
drain in carrying off the superfluous moisture during a
very wet period. The rows should be staked now, as
it is of great importance that the young vines be sup-
ported from their earliest stage, but this will be dealt
with in a subsequent paragraph.

FALL SOWING

While we are on the subject of sowing, it would be in-
complete were we not ,to mention Fall sowing. For
early bloom Fall or Autumn sowing is to be recom-
mended if your location is suitable. This method
is largely carried out in many parts of England with
best results. In the Southern States this operation
may be done towards the end of September and during
October, while for this locality (Philadelphia) we have
proved that November and early December sowings
give the most satisfactory results. Our experiments at
FORDHOOK FARMS have shown that Sweet Peas sown in
early October made growth about three inches tall
before severe weather set in, and that subsequently the
plants were frozen out, while seed sown in November
and early December just started to germinate before
frost, and as there were no top growths to freeze, with-

16

FALL SOWING

stood the Winter and started away strongly with the
first mild weather in March, the earlier varieties show-
ing flower on May I5th, while the ordinary varieties of
grandiflora and Spencer types were in full bloom early
in June.

These experiments in Fall sowing seem to show
us that we ought to aim at sowing the seed at as late
a date as possible, that the seed may just germinate
previous to frost, thereafter lying dormant all Winter
and so be ready to take advantage of the earliest mild
days of Spring, long before we could get on the ground
to make early plantings. Give the rows a mulch of
strawy litter or hay as soon as the ground freezes hard,
removing it early in March.

The advantages of Fall sowings are early flowering
and, on account of slower top growth in the early stages,
a much stronger root growth which will carry the plants
safely through periods of drought and so secure an ex-
tended flowering season.

_ Another, and perhaps the best, method for fall sow-
ing in this locality, or in fact any section where periods
of severe frost may be expected during the winter
months, is to use what I call the Sweet Pea frame.

Boards six to nine inches wide are placed on edge
lengthways, eight or nine inches apart along either side
of the row of Sweet Peas, holding them together with
small braces of wood and make ends tight with a piece
of board to fit the opening, as shown in the accompany-
ing illustration. Glass is laid along the top of the frame,
and may be fastened with string to hold it in position,
or special slots made in the boards into which the glass
fits.

When using this frame the seed should be sown about
17

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

When the soil freezes solidly cover the rows with coarse manure or
litter as shown in the above photograph taken at FORDHOOK FARMS late
in December.

Another method qf protecting fall sown Sweet Peas and one which
will give the planter earlier flowers.

18

STAKING AND TRELLISING

six weeks before severe freezing weather may be ex-
pected. In this section where this method is used the
correct date would be the middle of October.

Do not place the glass over the frame until severe
weather sets in or during periods of heavy rains. Pre-
vious to frost the seeds will have germinated and the
seedlings be well above the ground, and they should
have all the air possible to harden and strengthen their
growth.

Should the weather be extremely severe it may be
well to cover the frame with burlap or litter, but if
there should have been a heavy fall of snow the snow
covering will be ample protection.

Remove the glass during the first mild days of Spring,
and in the course of a week or two the frame also, though
the boards will be a protection against cold winds.

The frame may then be used to cover early sowings
of lettuce, beans, etc.

STAKING AND TRELLISING
A great diversity of opinion prevails over the ques-
tion of the most suitable material for staking Sweet
Pea vines. According to the NATIONAL SWEET PEA
ANNUAL FOR 1907, the opinions of fifty-two experts
were asked, forty-seven of the number voting for sticks,
most of them regarding hazel brush as being the best.
My own opinion on the matter is strongly in favor of
good twiggy boughs cut in the late winter or early
spring, that they may be on the green side and so tough
enough to last the season. If boughs are used, they
ought to be inserted at least one foot in the soil with the
tops inclining, if anything, a little outwards: i. e., the

19

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

tops of the boughs should not meet, as it is at this part
that so much space is wanted when the Peas are in full
growth, therefore by inclining your sticks outwards it
leaves room for all top growth and tends to keep your
vines in an upright position. Should your sticks not
be twiggy at the bottom, it will be found desirable to
insert a few short boughs between the taller sticks
wherever necessary.

Now although we might all wish to stake our Sweet
Peas with boughs, in the majority of cases this is an
impossibility through our inability to procure them:
therefore, the question of the next best substitute
arises, and this is to be found in wire netting of four-
or six-inch mesh. The initial cost of this material is
certainly a drawback where a large area of Sweet Peas
is grown, but it will be found the cheapest in the long
run, lasting as it does for many years. Netting four
to six feet wide will be found sufficient for this locality,
but in cooler sections where the Sweet Pea vines flourish
as they do in our extreme Northern States, Canada,
and England, this width may have to be doubled.
Stakes to support the wire netting will have to be used,
driving these twelve or eighteen inches into the ground.
Some growers use only one row of wire netting, but we
believe in the double row, say twelve inches apart.
Another method is the use of soft, light jute twine. In
this case stout stakes are used, driving one into the
ground every five feet down the rows on either side of
the Peas, then running the twine from stake to stake,
commencing a few inches from the ground with six
inches between each length. This will be found a most
economical method of staking your Peas, though not
so satisfactory as boughs or wire netting.

20

STAKING AND TRELLISING

The Rev. W. T. Hutchins' advice on staking, as
given in one of our former publications, is also of in-
terest on this important point in Sweet Pea culture, and
we append the following extracts:

"There are all degrees of success in growing Sweet
Peas, and the answer to the question of what kind of
support to give them depends largely on how thrifty
your vines are. I expect my own vines to make a
strong growth, at least six feet high, and, besides the
matter of height, it is quite evident that such a weight
of vines when wet, and when the strain of a gust of
wind comes broadside on them, will require a very
strong support. If you care for only moderate success,
smaller bushes or four-foot poultry wire may be suf-
ficient. If your soil has neither depth nor riches and
you provide a six-foot hedge of birch, your bushes will
be more conspicuous than your Sweet Peas. Or, if
you neglect your vines and let them go to seed, they
will dry up when two-thirds grown. Or, if you plant
them too thickly, they will make a spindling and
shorter growth. You are the one to decide whether
you want a four-foot or a six-foot support.

'Then, if you ask what to make the support of,
judging from most people, you will use that which
comes most convenient.

"Here are the points to be considered in a support
for Sweet Peas. Grow them at their best, and provide
for both height and strength, then allow for their loose
branching habit, and give them width enough to ramble.
I use birches entirely. They are brought to me in
twelve or fourteen foot lengths, just as cut from the
patch, and from each I get one good stout one seven
feet high, and the lighter top is used to fill in.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

'They are less unsightly if the tops are clipped to
an even six-foot level and the sides are trimmed suf-
ficiently to present a neat view from the end. These
twiggy birches are a more natural support, and in the
scorching sun do not heat as wire will. Of course,
birches last but one year, and should be procured early
in the spring, before their leaves start. Make ashes
of them in the fall.

'There is no limit to the style of trellis that can
be made, and they should be so made as to take apart
easily for storing away in the winter. By painting
the ground end of the posts or uprights with asphaltum
they will last longer. The printed designs are mere
suggestions of what can be made cheaply (see page 96).

"Keep your vines green and growing as long as you
can. Good rich ground and keeping the pods off will
do this/'

CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING
The liberal use of the hoe between the rows and plants
will be found of great service in conserving moisture
and, of course, at the same time keeping down the
weeds. Should the weather set in very dry and hot,
a liberal mulching of manure or grass should be given,
extending quits twelve inches on either side of the
plants, and a thorough watering two or three times a
week will keep your seedlings on the move. No liquid
manure should be applied, however, until the first blos-
soms appear, and then only sparingly — or rather in a
weak state— at first, alternating the waterings with
clear water. As the plants come into full flower the
manure may be made much stronger.

CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING

Now, as to the kind of manure to apply. We
know that growers of experience have their own pet
manures and mixtures, but the following may all be
relied upon. One of the least expensive, and one which
at the same time almost serves a double purpose by both
feeding the plant and acting as an insecticide, is soot.
Place about a^peck of soot in a bag and let it dissolve
for a few hours in an old tub or barrel filled with water.
Guano may be used in the proportion of one pound to
twenty gallons of water; or sulphate of potash, one
ounce to one gallon of water. Farmyard liquid manure,
used about the color of weak tea, is also of service;
acid phosphate or superphosphate of lime, used as a
liquid, dissolving at the rate of half an ounce to one
gallon of water. Also sulphate of potash, used in con-
junction and at the same rate, will help the plants con-
siderably. The majority of growers consider the use of
nitrate of soda dangerous to the well-being of Sweet
Peas, though I believe there are times when it may be
used to advantage; for instance, if the vines have a
stunted appearance, and instead of making fresh growth,
are at a stand. In such a case I advocate using nitrate
at the rate of quarter of an ounce to one gallon of water.
When using liquid manure, it is well to let it follow a
thorough soaking with clear water, that the fertilizing
material may penetrate to the lowest roots, and if
possible all watering should be done after the sun has
gone down, as this will to a great extent save the crack-
ing of the soil and allow the plants to get the full benefit
of the moisture. Spraying the vines overhead in the
cool of the evening will be found to benefit the plants
during a hot, dry spell.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

BUDS DROPPING

Where the plants have been well cultivated and heav-
ily manured and the vines consequently are growing,
vigorously, it sometimes happens that a large propor-
tion of the first buds drop from the flower stem before
opening. A sudden change in the weather will often
bring on a bad attack of bud dropping. This may be
due to heavy rains following a dry spell, or low night
temperature, which naturally causes a check to the sap
flow. But the grower need not be alarmed at this,
as the vines will soon assume their natural mode of
procedure, all buds subsequently opening and remain-
ing on the stem as they should do. Bud dropping is
most frequently met with in a wet season.

WINTER FLOWERING SWEET PEAS UNDER

GLASS

Not so many years ago the winter flowering Sweet Pea
was more or less of a side line or catch crop with the
florist — a sort of "fill in" when other crops had failed
or stocks run short, but this can not be said of it today,
It is now a "regular" in all markets, and its place would
be hard to fill.

To grow successfully, a heated greenhouse is indis-
pensable, and the seeds may be sown on raised benches,
in pots, or the solid bed or border. The date of sowing
will depend on when the Sweet Peas are wanted to
bloom. The forcing of winter flowering varieties takes
from two and one-half to three months from the date
of planting until blooming, if started about the middle
of August. Later sowings take rather longer; there-

24

WINTER FLOWERING SWEET PEAS UNDER GLASS

fore, if required for spring cutting, seed should be sown
early in November. The seed may be sown in the row
or started in small pots or flats (many growers prefer
flats).

Best results are obtained when grown in solid beds,
though I have seen magnificent Peas cut from plants on
raised benches. They come into flower earlier when
grown on raised benches, but the quality of bloom is not
so fine, nor is the flowering season so prolonged as when
grown in solid beds.

With the advent of the new winter flowering Spen-
cer type, there is no doubt whatever that the Sweet
Pea will steadily increase in popularity and good prices
will always be realized for first class flowers.

As in all other lines, quality counts, therefore, al-
though it is an easy crop to grow, a little extra care
in soil preparation, attention to ventilation, watering,
etc., may make all the difference between failure and
success, simply paying for one's labor or making a
substantial profit. Therefore it behooves the grower
to start in good time his preparation for this crop.

Plants that will continue blooming for several
months, and produce highest quality flowers, can be
successfully grown only in solid beds, and there must be
sufficient head room in the house. In the ideal Sweet
Pea house the eaves will be at least eight feet high. If
the existing soil in the beds is in good heart, it may be
necessary further to enrich with farmyard manure, but
at the same time it should be thoroughly turned over at
the least two feet deep. Perfect drainage is essential,
otherwise the plants may collapse entirely when in full
growth, when water is being applied freely in the spring,
due to root rot. Therefore, according to the composi-

25

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

tion of the sub-soil it may be advisable to break up the
bottom with a pick or even to add drainage in the shape
of clinkers, stone, etc. No hard and fast rule can be
laid down for this, as it all depends on the situation of
the house, drainage, natural soil at the bottom of the
. bed, etc.

Put in the manure with no niggardly hand if it is
thoroughly rotted, but keep it well in the second spit,
also incorporate fine bone meal at the rate of two ounces
per square yard and a little Scotch soot, using these in
the top spit. When all is finished give the bed a dress-
ing of freshly slaked lime, afterwards raking or pointing
it in.

If there is any doubt as to the perfect condition of
the soil it had better be changed. Use good fresh loam
of a medium nature — that is, neither too heavy nor yet
light and sandy — and add manure and fertilizers as sug-
gested. The beds should, where possible, be prepared
a few weeks previous to sowing or planting, that the
soil may naturally settle.

*$

SEED SOWING

Sow the seed very thinly — say one inch apart — in
boxes containing sharp sand only. This will insure
perfect germination, and obviate all risk of seed rotting.
When sowing cover the seed not more than half an inch.
Water thoroughly and cover with paper to prevent the
rapid evaporation of moisture. After having tried all
plans I could think of, I have proved this to be the most
perfect method.

If some varieties are slow in starting it is a simple
matter to find the seed in the sand, when they should

26

SEED SOWING

be chipped and replaced, following which they will
very quickly sprout.

When the seedlings are two or three inches high
they must be transplanted to their flowering quarters —
care being taken not to injure the roots, setting them
three to four inches apart in the row. Wherever prac-
ticable the rows should be at least four feet apart.

Another method from which I have had excellent
results, is to make a two inch furrow in the beds, filling
it with sand into which the seed is pressed to a depth
of from one to one and one-half inches. This naturally
saves the labor of transplanting. Or again the seed
may be soaked in warm water for twelve hours — when
on examination any seed which shows no sign of swell-
ing should be chipped, and all immediately sown.

To ensure a long cutting season and first quality
flowers, a perfect root growth to the plant is essential,
and this can be attained only by keeping the house as
cool as possible during the earlier stages of growth.
Give ventilation day and night, so long as there is no
danger of frost. At this time a temperature around 40
to 46 degrees Fahr. at night — rising 10 degrees during
the day — is what to aim for. If the house is much warmer
the plants will quickly shoot up and prematurely pro-
duce flowers long before the proper root foundation, so
necessary for the future well-being of the plant, is laid.

When coming into flower the temperature must be
gradually raised to 50 degrees at night and 65 degrees to
70 degrees during the day, according to the weather.
During cloudy damp weather the trouble with bud
dropping may be experienced if the atmosphere in the
house becomes laden with moisture. This is the time
when the grower must be on the alert, and it may be

27

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

found necessary to run a little extra heat in the pipes, at
the same time carefully ventilating the house so that
the dampness in the air may he expelled. But do not
run up the temperature beyond 65 degrees; when in
flower and during bright weather the day temperature
may go to 70 degrees with safety.

If stimulants in the shape of liquid manure be given
it must be done with caution, for if applied indiscrimi-
nately it may bring on a bad case of bud dropping, es-
pecially during the shorter days. A light dressing of
bone meal, pulverized sheep manure or thoroughly
rotted old cow manure is recommended, and cow ma-
nure as a diluted liquid is also safe.

Provided the soil is fairly moist when the plants
are set out, or the seed sown, very little water will be
required for some time. Though, should the weather
be mild and warm accompanied by much sun, it may be
well to syringe the plants each morning, until it is ob-
served that they have commenced to grow again.

When growing strongly they must, of course, be
watered regularly, at least whenever the soil shows
signs of drying out. Do not water close up to the
plants, and give the ground a thorough soaking. Al-
ways water in the early part of the day and only during
clear, bright weather.

To safeguard the crop from the green fly or pea
louse, the house should be fumigated at least every ten
days, for should this pest once get a good start it is
very difficult to eradicate.

WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES
I have found that the most accommodating variety
with regard 'to vagaries of temperature and weather is

28

WINTER OR EARLY FLOWERING VARIETIES

Yarrawa. It seldom vexes the grower by dropping
its buds, while the flowers are of great size, and if at
all well grown, are invariably borne on extra long stiff
stems.

I am hoping that all the seedlings I have now on the
way with Yarrawa blood in them may prove to be of
equally easy culture, for, so far, no Sweet Pea at present
on the market is so easily handled as that fine variety.
Yarrawa is a cream ground bicolor, color a pleasing
shade of bright rose-pink, wings creamy-pink, and it
was one of the best sellers on the market during the past
season.

Another popular color is the pink and white bi-
color— the old Blanche Ferry color — which in the new
Spencer type is grand.

There are now many hybridists at work on this new
type of Sweet Pea, so we may safely predict the intro-
duction of new colors, and improvements over existing
sorts in the near future. In addition to its usefulness
for indoor culture it is now being grown in quantity in
the open in the sunny South, where, from sowings made
at the end of September or early October, it blooms
from December until June.

With the exception of that fine Australian variety
Yarrawa, the following varieties are the result of crosses I
have been making at FORDHOOK FARMS. I started this
interesting work in 1909, crossing the best of the then
available Spencers on such varieties as Burpee's Earliest
of All — Burpee's Earliest Sunbeams — Mont Blanc, etc.
Since the introduction of Yarrawa I have used it almost
exclusively and am looking forward to much improve-
ment in this most valuable type.

29

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

EARLY KING (Burpee 1917). Crimson self.
EARLY PINK BEAUTY (Burpee 1917). Light pink self.
EARLY ENCHANTRESS (Burpee 1917). Deep pink.
FORDHOOK PINK AND WHITE (Burpee 1917). Pink

standard, white wings.

FORDHOOK ROSE (Burpee 1916). Rich rose self.
FORDHOOK EARLY SANKEY (Burpee 1917). White self.
EARLY LOVELINESS (Burpee 1917). White suffused

pink.

PRIMROSE BEAUTY (Burpee 1917). Primrose self.
ROSY MORN (Burpee 1917). Scarlet and rose.
YARRAWA (Yates 1912). Rosy-pink and cream.
FORDHOOK PINK (Burpee 1916). Lavender pink self.

GROWING EARLY OR WINTER FLOWERING
SWEET PEAS IN THE OPEN

The winter flowering varieties described above, in
addition to their usefulness for growing under glass,
will be found of great value for outdoor culture. In
fact, in localities where on account of extreme heat the
summer flowering Sweet Peas did not succeed, or at
best gave only a few flowers ere the vines died off, this
new type can be grown to perfection..

We have received glowing letters in praise of the
early flowering varieties from friends located in Florida
and other warm sections, where, from seed sown in late
September and early October, they have cut beautiful
Sweet Peas for Christmas, while the vines continued
blooming until May or June.

The summer flowering or original varieties of Spen-
cers sown at the same time will not flower until April.
Therefore, I recommend with confidence using the

30

SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION

early flowering varieties in all tropical or sub-tropical
countries, our Southern States and other localities which
are frostless — or almost so. A little frost will not per-
manently harm the Sweet Pea, although it would spoil
the expanded and opening flowers.

SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION
The majority of the blue and lavender colored Sweet
Peas produce small, poor looking seeds of a mottled
appearance, which by the novice may be regarded as
of inferior quality, yet it is simply the nature of these
varieties to produce such seed, and they are of as good
germinative power as the large, round, plump seed
which we find in the other colors.

Some seasons Sweet Peas are slow in germinating
or fail to do so altogether. Now, before condemning
the seedsman, it is well to find out where the fault
lies, and if the grower will take the trouble to carefully
examine the seed, nine times out of ten he will find that
although they are still perfectly dormant they are quite
plump and fresh, and if the outer coating is cut with a
sharp knife, taking care not to harm the embryo plant,
he will find that in a few days they will germinate
freely and well. The reason assigned for this state
of affairs is that the seeds have been so well ripened —
say after a very hot, dry summer — that the coating
has become so hard as to be quite impervious to mois-
ture.

In the case of new and expensive varieties, many
growers have now adopted the method of cutting all
the seed ere planting. I recommend soaking the seed

31

SWEET PEAS UP TO- DATE

overnight in warm water. On examination any
seeds which show no sign of swelling should then be
chipped as shown on the illustration.

White seeded varieties are also a cause of much
annoyance at times, as they are apt to rot in the ground
should the weather be wet and cold after planting.
We, therefore, advise sowing these rather thicker than
the dark seeded sorts, and not so deeply; or, to hurry
germination, and so avoid the risk of them rotting in
the soil, the seed should be soaked in warm water for
twelve hours previous to planting, or, if starting them
in pots, use an inch layer of sand, as advised on page 12,
this being the method 1 always use when planting
scarce and new varieties, and with most satisfactory
results.

Another method to insure perfect germination is to
soak the large plump dark seeded sorts in pure sulphuric
acid for thirty minutes. After soaking, wash thorough-
ly in three changes of water. Do not subject the white
or small mottled varieties to the acid, or if doing so, it
should not be for more than five minutes.

INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT
THE CUT WORM. — This pest is in some seasons most
destructive to the vines in early stages of growth, and

32

INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT

various methods of combating its ravages have from
time to time been advocated, such as hand-picking,
sowing lettuce beside the rows of Peas, etc. However,
a dusting of tobacco powder or soot will be found as
effectual a deterrent to the mischief caused by these
worms as anything you can try.

RED SPIDER AND GREEN APHIS OR "PEA LOUSE/' —
These small injects are apt to attack the vines during
hot and dry periods, and war must be waged against
them as soon as they appear or they will multiply so
quickly as to soon destroy all growth. We recommend
spraying with whale-oil soap or a weak solution of
kerosene emulsion, applying it every third day until
the vines are quite free of them. Vines that are kept
growing steadily and that receive a spraying of clear
water occasionally in the evening are less liable to be
attacked by these pests.

The SWEET PEA BLIGHT, as the writer has seen it,
appears to be caused by drought combined with shallow
cultivation, for had the roots been able to penetrate
the hard subsoil and reached rich soil, the plants would
naturally have kept healthy and strong, instead of
drying up, flagging, and becoming yellow, in many
cases ere they had even bloomed.

STREAK DISEASE (Thilavia bassicola), although
so prevalent some seasons in England, rarely, if ever,
is to be met with in this section, and I have not heard
of it being seen in California.

Scientists who have studied "streak" seem to have
arrived at the conclusion that errors in manuring were
at the root of the evil.

We are told that all nitrogenous manures should
be withheld from the Sweet Pea, for as it belongs to the

33

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

leguminosae family of plants, all of which are capable
of assimilating the free nitrogen of the atmosphere, it
is unnatural to feed it nitrates, as by so doing the
nitrogen-gathering bacteria in the root nodules die of
inanition and the plant is, therefore, susceptible to
disease. Therefore where disease has prevailed it is
well to avoid the too free use of farmyard manure.

If the soil must have humus, apply the dung to the
previous crop, or use it only in a thoroughly rotted
condition, as in that state most of the nitrogen will
previously have been liberated.

Some experts claim that the free use of sulphate of
potash will prevent disease, and advocate applying it at
the rate of one pound to every four yard run of row two
weeks previous to planting or sowing, forking it well
into the ground. Of course, this must be done only
when the soil is in a sufficiently dry condition.

Permanganate of potash is also advocated and I
have found much benefit to follow its use. Dissolve
one ounce of the crystals in six gallons of water, thor-
oughly saturate the soil around the plants, and also
spray the vines at intervals of six or seven days.

THE BEST SWEET PEAS

So much depends on the personal taste or fancy of
the expert that it would be absurd to say arbitrarily
that any set of varieties were the very best. However,
to assist those who have not had an opportunity of
making comparisons, the following selections can be de-
pended upon whether they are intended for exhibition
purposes or for garden and home decoration. My first
choice is those marked with an asterisk.

34

THE BEST SWEET PEAS

*Cherub Primrose edged rose

*Constance Hinton White self

Dainty Spencer White edged rose

Doris Usher Salmon-pink on cream

Edith Taylor Rosy cerise

*Elfrida Pearson Blush pink

*Fiery Cross Fire-red self

*Floradale Fairy- Primrose self

Florence Nightingale Lavender

George Herbert Rosy carmine

*Hercules Deep pink

*Illuminator Cerise-pink and salmon

King Edward Spencer Bright crimson

*King White Pure white

*Margaret Atlee Rosy pink on cream

Margaret Madison Clear azure blue

Mrs. Cuthbertson Pink and white

*Mrs. Routzahn Apricot and pink

*Nubian or King Manoel .... Deep maroon
*Orchid Helio mauve

Queen Victoria Spencer Primrose flushed rose

Robt. Sydenham Orange self

Rosabelle Rose

*Royal Purple Purple self

Scarlet Emperor or

Vermilion Brilliant Crimson-scarlet

Tennant Spencer Purplish mauve

The President Orange scarlet self

Wedgwood Light blue

vvvS&
VARIETIES FOR TRUCKERS AND MARKET GARDENERS

Truckers and market gardeners who have a market
for cut flowers are now awakening to the fact that there
is money in Sweet Peas. The writer saw a letter from
a trucker some time ago which stated he had made

35

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

$400.00 that season from quarter of an acre of Sweet
Peas. Therefore, to those in suitable locations this
is surely encouragement enough to induce them to
give these popular flowers a trial. We have heard of
growers sowing their Sweet Peas after taking off an
early crop of vegetables, but would rather favor the
method of sowing Sweet Peas on a free piece of land
as early in the spring as possible, putting up the trellising
at once, and in the space between the rows planting an
early crop of lettuce, radish, etc., that will be cleared
away before the Peas come into flower. This plan
could be altered according to location and latitude, or
they might be sown in the fall; but what we would
like to impress upon the grower is that it is no use
expecting best results if the seed are sown late in the
spring, for to secure a long flowering season the roots
must have made good growth before warm weather
sets in.

As the best prices are obtained from flowers bunched
in one color, it is advisable to sow named varieties,
and if only six varieties are wanted to start with, we
recommend the following as being as good as any for
this class of trade:

Yarrawa Rose-pink and cream

Nora Unwin White

Countess Spencer Rich pink

King Edward Spencer Crimson

Florence Nightingale ....... Lavender

Mrs. Routzahn Cream pink

Or a more extended list might be made from the
list given on page 35.

36

GROWING FOR EXHIBITION

GROWING FOR EXHIBITION
Where the main object of the planter is flowers for the
exhibition table, more intensive methods of culture
are usually carried out. For instance, if the rows of
Peas are grown in a block, instead of trenching the
ground for each individual row only, the entire piece of
ground should be deeply dug and thoroughly manured,
as described on page 1 1 and the growths thinned out
considerably; in fact, only taking up two to four stems
on each plant. All other branches or laterals being
carefully pulled out, not cut out, as by adopting the
•latter method new laterals would again be emitted in
the course of a few days.

Plant in double rows, allowing twelve inches
between the rows, and in transplanting set each plant
at least six inches apart in the row. If the seed has
been sown four or five in a pot, or in boxes, care must
be taken not to break or injure the roots in any way
when separating them, and in planting do not cramp
the roots. Spread them out carefully and see that the
hole is of a sufficient depth to allow for the main root
without any doubling. As the growth is concentrated
in a limited number of stems the vines will, therefore,
be much taller than when allowed to grow naturally,
and provision must be made for this when staking.

The best method is to drive stout posts at the end
of each double row, to which nail two or three cross
pieces, the first eighteen inches wide, attached about
nine inches from the ground, the center pieces twelve
inches wide, and the top cross piece nine inches. Stout
wires are then strained horizontally along both sides of
the row from the cross pieces. Long stakes or bamboos

37

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

Reproduction of a photograph received from Percy A. Brightman,
Newport, R. I., which illustrates the Cordon system as explained on
pages 37 to 40 inclusive.

GROWING FOR EXHIBITION

are now put flat against the wires, to which they must
be securely tied. The height of all will naturally
depend on what section of the country the grower
resides. For instance, in our northern states and
Canada the vines may be expected to run from ten to
twelve or more feet in height, while further south six
to eight feet may be sufficient, and much will of course
depend on the season.

It will be observed that by the above arrangement
the tops slope inward, the reason being that when
grown by this intensive method, each stem is ultimately
brought to the outside of the stakes, to which they must
be carefully tied as growth proceeds.

Do not thin out the stems until the plants are at
least twelve inches high, but be careful that they are
kept upright during all stages of growth, as when they
are allowed to sprawl along the ground they run the
risk of being trampled upon or twisted and injured by
wind, and it is in the earlier days that the welfare of the
plants must be most carefully guarded if success is to
be obtained.

In training the shoots they should be at least four
inches apart, according to the space at disposal.

On the approach of warm weather do not omit to
give the plants a good mulch of strawy farmyard
manure, and follow immediately with a thorough soak-
ing of water.

In applying water throughout the season the grower
will be guided by weather and soil conditions, but the
plants must not be allowed to suffer for lack of moisture.
On no account give water in driblets — either a thorough
soaking or none at all. On light porous soils water may
safely be given during a dry spell at least twice a week,

39

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

and on heavier and more retentive soils once a week.
When flowers appear liquid manures should also be
used, but given rather weak to begin with. Sheep or
cow manure, made by steeping it in a tub or barrel, or
taken from the farm cesspool and well diluted, will be
found excellent, and this may be changed occasionally
for artificials. Superphosphate (acid phosphate), one
ounce to a gallon of water. Sulphate of potash,
nitrate of potash, half an ounce to a gallon of water.
Nitrate of soda should be given only if the plants re-
quire a special "pick me up" towards the end of the
season.

To give flowers extra fine color I believe there is
nothing to surpass soot (the real Scotch imported
soot may now be obtained from many establish-
ments).

In showery weather it may be dusted along the
soil on both sides of the plants, or used as a liquid
manure as advised on page 23.

EXHIBITING SWEET PEAS
Intending exhibitors must keep the blooms hard cut
from the vines until, say, four days previous to the
date of the show, and all varieties that are likely to
scald with the sun should be shaded with cheese-cloth
or other light material, as in close competition a single
scorched flower might make all the difference between
a first or second prize. Do not erect the shading until
three days previous to the date the flowers are required,
and remove it immediately after cutting, as continued
shading rapidly weakens the plant.

Varieties that have orange in their colorings (such
40

EXHIBITING SWEET PEAS

as Stirling. Stent, Thos. Stevenson, Helen Lewis), the
scarlets, and the blues, should all be protected. The
blooms should be cut at the last possible minute,
choosing whenever practicable the early morning or
the evening, putting the flowers immediately into water
and placing in a cool room or cellar until packed. Pick
only young, -fresh blooms with' the last flower just
open or in the opening stage, as should you be cutting
the day previous to the show, it will be fully expanded
by the time the judges come around. Cut with as long
stems as possible. The ideal spray should have a
stem of twelve to eighteen inches long, with four good
flowers on it. Therefore, aim at the ideal. If the
flowers are wet when cut they must be put very thinly
in vases and placed in a room where there is a little
heat, but through which a current of air is playing that
they may dry off ere being packed, for if they are at all
moist when packed for travelling, the flowers will,
when unpacked, be found to be discolored and spotted
and many of the blooms will drop from the stems.

In staging the flowers never crowd them. Let
every flower "speak for itself." Twenty sprays make
a nice vase, and the best method of arranging them is
to start by putting some stiff grass or reeds (cut two
inches long) in the mouth of the vase, as this helps to
keep the stems in position. Each stem must be put in
separately. Let every flower be seen as far as possible
and all face one way, with the exception of such varieties
as have the back of the standards tinted in coloring
other than the ground color of the flower, when the
position of such, might be judiciously varied. One or
two pieces of foliage — a little Gypsophila — or light
grass, such as Agrostis Nebulosa, might with advantage

41

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

be used. But this should not be overdone, and only if
the rules allow of it.

In staging a collection of twelve varieties, they
should be stood in three rows, the back rows being
tiered eight or nine inches above the other, and arrange
the colors so that they do not clash. Even if the show
schedule does not ask for it, name each variety with
a neat card placed at the base of each vase.

During very hot or stormy weather, some exhibitors
cut their flowers in the bud stage or partly open and
allow them to fully expand in water, adding about
a quarter of an ounce of sulphate of iron to three
gallons of water. Some colors, such as the light blues,
mauves and lavenders improve very much in color by
this method, but the salmon orange and crimson
colored varieties lose much of their beauty when cut
for long before they are required.

SWEET PEAS FOR TABLE AND OTHER

DECORATIONS

Few flowers lend themselves so readily to the deco-
rator's art as does the fragrant Sweet Pea. They
require no wiring or stiffening of the stem — once they
are cut, they are ready for the deft fingers to create
charming effects for any purpose.

Pretty effects may be had by associating two colors
that harmonize, though perhaps nothing is daintier
than a table decorated with one variety only — say,
the beautiful Countess Spencer. A lovely combination
may be obtained by using Barbara or Stirling Stent with
Queen Victoria Spencer or Primrose Spencer, or a
crimson and a yellow, and Orchid in conjunction with

42

SWEET PEAS FOR TABLE DECORATION

a rich cream pink, and Illuminator with a rich primrose
variety — all form most charming color harmonies.
Lavender and blue Sweet Peas look dull under artificial
light, though very pleasing at other times. Or, again,
various shades of pink, from light to dark, form a
beautiful color scheme.

In arranging the flowers let all be as light and airy
looking as possible; never jam the sprays closely
together; strive to let every flower be seen. Allow
a few flowers to stand well above the others, which
tends to give all a natural appearance. A few sprays
of colored lycopodium allowed to trail over the sides
of the receptacles and arranged on the table, or sprays
of asparagus, smilax or other light greenery, all help
the general effect, while light grasses and a little of
their own foliage inserted among the flowers will lend
grace and elegance to the arrangement — if not overdone.

THE "SPENCER" TYPE OF SWEET PEAS
The introduction of Countess Spencer in 1904 will
be marked as creating a new era in the Sweet Pea
world. This most lovely of pink Sweet Peas is of
immense size, and the forerunner of quite a new type.
Previous to the Countess Spencer appearing, our Sweet
Peas were either of hooded standard or expanded
upright standard forms. Countess Spencer was the
first to appear with beautifully frilled and wavy stand-
ard and wings, of immense size — but, alas! it was not
fixed to type, as it sported very badly. This sportive
character, however, has proved really a blessing in
disguise, as so many of the sports were of quite new
shades, at the same time containing all the parents'

43*

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

characteristic form and size. All would have been
right had the various seed-growers not been in such a
hurry to rush those unfixed sports upon the market,
much to the disgust of many amateur growers.

A peculiarity about the "Spencer" sports is that
they generally come in duplicate: i. e., the same
color in Spencer and grandiflora types. Take, for
instance, Helen Lewis and John Ingman: with Helen
Lewis sport there was also a very large grandiflora
sport of the same color, similar in appearance to Lady
Mary Currie, and with John Ingman appeared a variety
of much the same color, but also of grandiflora type.
The result was that both were saved, and as the old
type is so much more prolific in seed-bearing, the result
became worse instead of even remaining stationary.
However, observant growers are now becoming more

KING WHITE. Engraved from a Photograph.
' 44

SPENCER VARIETIES

careful in the saving and roguing of their stocks, so
that in the future we may hope for better results from
new colors of the Spencer type.

Much has been written on the sportiveness of Count-
ess Spencer and its seedlings, some growers affirming
that it is caused by small insects, others that the bee
is supposed to split the calyx or keel and so carry the
pollen to otHer varieties; others again explain how the
pistils in some flowers are enlarged and come out
through the keel, and so are in a position to catch the
pollen from other varieties; but it is a question how
any of these theories can be established, as it is. a rec-
ognized fact that fertilization has been effected ere
the flower opens.

LIST OF SPENCER SWEET PEAS
The following includes — so far as we know — all varieties
introduced up to 1917, and although the majority of
them will never become popular, a description of these
later introductions doubtless will be of interest to Sweet
Pea enthusiasts. We have tested practically every
variety as it was introduced, and are now offering only
those which in our opinion are of superior merit, full
particulars of which will be found in " Burpee's Annual."

A. B. BANTOCK. (Baker's, 1910.) Creamy buff and pink,

shaded amber.
A. N. DICKSON. (Breadmore, 1911.) Rosy-lilac with purple

wings.

A. A. FABIUS. (Alsen, 1910.) Glowing rose.
ADELAIDE. (Dobbie, 1917.) This was originally named

Anzac. Standard rich purple. Wings electric-blue.

45

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

AFTERGLOW. (Bolton, 1911.) Reddish-mauve with violet

wings.

AGGIE ELDER. (Breadmore, 1913.) Similar to Decorator.
AGNITA. (Cautley, 1912.) White, flushed lilac.
AGRICOLA. (Bolton, 1913.) White, flushed soft lilac.
AITKEN'S CARMINE. (Aitken, 1914.) Light carmine rose.
ALFRED WATKINS. (Dobbie, 1915.) Clear lavender-blue.
ALBERT GILBERT. (Gilbert, 1910.) Rose self, similar to

Marie Corelli.

ALPHA. (Breadmore, 1912.) Pale lilac self.
ALTHORP CREAM. (Cole, 1910.) Similar to Primrose Spencer.
ALTHORP WHITE. (Cole, 1910.) Similar to White Spencer.
AMBER. (Aldersey and Jones, 1913.) Rich salmon rose.
AMERICA SPENCER. (Burpee, 1910.) Red flaked on white

ground.

AMETHYST. (Aldersey, 1910.) Violet blue.
ANDREW AITKEN. (Bolton, 1913.) Soft salmon.
ANGLIAN BRILLIANT. (King, 1914.) Coppery-red.
ANGLIAN CREAM. (King, 1915.) Intense cream self.
ANGLIAN CRIMSON. (King, 1910.) Crimson self.
ANGLIAN FAIRY. (King, 1913.) Light lemon, suffused pale

copper.

ANGLIAN LAVENDER. (King, 1911.) Deep lavender, suf-
fused pink.

ANGLIAN ORANGE. (King, 1911.) Salmon-pink.
ANGLIAN PINK. (King, 1911.) Salmon-pink on cream

ground. Similar to Miriam Beaver.
ANGLIAN ROYAL. (King, 1914.) Crimson-lake.
ANNABEL LEE. (Alsen, 1913.) Rosy-mauve. Similar to

Irish Belle.
ANNA LUMLEY. (Lumley, 1909.) Synonymous with Othello

Spencer.
ANNIE BOWNASS. (Dickson, 1917.) White, suffused pink

and amber.

ANNIE SCULPHER. (Deal, 1913.) Salmon-cerise.
ANNIS GIBSON. (Breadmore, 1912.) Purplish-mauve.

46 '

'SPENCER" VARIETIES

APPLE BLOSSOM SPENCER. (Burpee, 1908.) Rose and blush.

APRIL. (Dipnall, 1913.) Blue flake on white ground.

ARIEL. (Dipnall, 1915.) White suffused blush-pink.

ARTHUR GREEN. (Dobbie, 1911.) Bronzy-brown with vio-
let wings.

ARTHUR UNWIN. (Unwin, 1910.) Salmon-rose with buff
wings.

ASHANTEE. tStark, 1912.) Reddish maroon.

ASTA OHN. (Morse, 1909.) Charming soft lavender, suf-
fused mauve.

ATTRACTION. (King, 1916.) Light shell-pink.

AUDREY CRIER. (Breadmore, 1908.) A lovely shade of
salmon pink, of the largest size and finest form.

AURORA SPENCER. (Burpee-Morse, 1909.) Cream white
ground; exquisitely flaked and mottled rich orange salmon,

AUSTIN FREDERICK. (Woodcock, 1911.) Pale lavender. \

AVALANCHE. (Lumley, 1912.) White self.

BARBARA. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Salmon-orange self.

BEATRICE SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Soft pink and buff.

BEAUTY. (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A blush pink Spencer.
Similar to Florence Morse Spencer.

BELLONA. (Dipnall, 1917.) Dark rich scarlet.

BEND OR. (Aldersey, 1912.) Salmon standard, rose wings.

BERTHA MASSEY. (Bide, 1911.) Rosy-lilac self.

BERTIE USHER. (Usher, 1912.) Violet flake on white.
Similar to Loyalty.

BERTRAND DEAL. (Deal, 1910.) Rosy-mauve self.

BERYL. (Aldersey, 1913.) Creamy-pink self. Very similar
to Lilian.

BERYL. (Dickson, 1917.) A soft salmon-pink.

BETTY. (Dobbie, 1912.) Purplish-mauve.

BETTY CAUTLEY. (Cautley, 1911.) Peach, shaded salmon.

BIRDBROOK. (Bolton, 1913.) Maroon flake on white.

BIRD OF PARADISE. (Hemus, 1912.) A Helen Pierce Spencer.

BLACK KNIGHT SPENCER. (Stevenson, 1910.) Shining
maroon.

47

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

BLANCHE FERRY SPENCER. (Ferry, 1910.) Standard rose-
pink. Wings blush.

BLUE FLAKE SPENCER. (Box, 1912.) Blue flake on white.

BLUE JACKET. (Stark, 1912.) Deep navy blue.

BLUE KING. (Bide, 1913.) Dark blue.

BLUE PICOTEE. (Dobbie, 1914.) White edged violet.

BLUE BELL SPENCER. (Stark, 1916.) A real true blue.

BLUE GEM. (Watkins and Simpson, 1916.) Clear mid-blue.

BLUE MONARCH. (Stark, 1915.) Rich navy blue self.

BLUSH SPENCER. (King, 1909.) White suffused blush pink.

BOADICEA. (Bolton, 1915.) Light pink, suffused mauve.

BOBBIE K. (Chandler-Unwin, 1908.) A pale pink Spencer.
Similar to Florence Morse Spencer.

BOLTON'S ORANGE. (Bolton, 1915.) This is very similar to

i Robert Sydenham.

BOLTON'S SCARLET. (Bolton, 1913.) Light scarlet self.

BREADMORE'S FRILLED CREAM. (Breadmore, 1913.) Deep
cream self.

BREADMORE'S LAVENDER. (Breadmore, 1909.) (Lavender
George Herbert.) A lavender Spencer.

BRILLIANT SPENCER. (Stark, 1916.) Crimson standard;
wings, rosy-carmine.

BROOKLAND'S QUEEN. (Deal, 1914.) Salmon-pink standard,
blush wings.

BRUNETTE. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1913.) Mahogany self.

BURGUNDY. (Stark, 1913.) Rich wine self.

BUTTERCUP. (Lumley, 1910.) Cream self.

CAIRNGORM. (Aldersey, 1912.) White, flushed blue.

CAMBRIDGE BLUE. (Holmes, 1914.) A light blue self.

CAPTAIN OF THE BLUES SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish-
maroon. Wings purple. Similar to Waverley.

CAPTAIN H. TRAVERS. (Agate, 1913.) Bright salmon self.
Very similar to Stirling Stent.

CAPTIVATION SPENCER. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Rich rosy
wine-red.

CATHERINE LUMLEY. (Lumley, 1910.) Orange with pink.

SPENCER VARIETIES

CECIL CRIER. (Breadmore, 1907.) A deep rosy-pink.

CERISE PARADISE. (Hemus, 1910.) Similar to Coccinea
Spencer.

CERISE SPENCER. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) A large cer-
ise self.

CHARITY. (Stevenson, 1917.) Rich brilliant crimson.

CHARLES FOSTER. (Bolton, 1911.) Pastel pink, shaded
lavender.

CHARLES HEMUS. (Hemus, 1910.) Light maroon or ma-
hogany, small.

CHARLIE IRVING. (Breadmore, 1910.) Orange-salmon.

CHARM. (Burpee, 1913.) Blush, shaded pale lilac.

CHASTITY. (Bath, 1912.) Large waved blush.

CHEERFUL. (Bolton, 1916.) Light apricot and mauve on
cream ground.

CHERUB. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Rich cream, edged rose.

CHERRY RIPE. (Gilbert, 1909.) Cerise self, similar to Coc-
cinea Spencer.

CHILTON. (Clark, 1909.) Pale salmon-pink Spencer.

CHOCOLATE. (Aldersey, 1912.) Dark chocolate self.

Cis WRIGHT. (Wright, 1916.) Light cream pink, tinted
lilac.

CLARA CURTIS. (Bolton, 1908.) Primrose colored Spencer.
Synonymous with Primrose Spencer.

CLARK'S DUCHESS. (Clark, 1909.) Deep salmon.

CLARK'S QUEEN. (Clark, 1909.) Cream shaded towards
edges of petals with deep pink.

CLIMAX. (Woodcock, 1914.) Rich carmine-rose.

COCCINEA PARADISE. (Hemus, 1910.) Cerise self, similar to
Coccinea Spencer.

COCCINEA SPENCER. (Breadmore, 1911.) Bright cerise.

CODSALL ROSE. (Baker, 1906.) A deep rose.

COLLEEN. (W. Deal, 1910.) Carmine standard, wings blush.

COLONEL LARNER CLARKE. (Alsen, 1910.) Purplish maroon.

COMET. (Hemus, 1912.) Rosy-pink, deeper at edges.

COMMANDER HUMPHREY. (Cole, 1911.) A rich puce.

49

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

CONSPICUOUS. (Malcolm, 1915.) A fine maroon self.

CONSTANCE ACOMB. (Holmes, 1916.) Creamy-white, suf-
fused mauve.

CONSTANCE CHAMPION. (Bide, 1916.) Soft cerise-salmon.

CONSTANCE HINTON. (Hinton-Wheeler, 1914.) A black,
seeded white.

CONSTANCE OLIVER. (Lumley, 1908.) Delicate pink, suf-
fused with cream. Similar to Nell Gwynne.

CONTRAST. (Bath, 1910.) Blue and purple, edged white.

CORAL. (Aldersey, 1910.) Bright pink.

CORAL GEM. (J. K. King, 1916.) Cream pink self.

CORONATION. (Bolton, 1912.) Apricot, flushed pink, on
cream ground.

COUNTESS OF ANCASTER. (Gilbert, 1910.) Deep plum self.

COUNTESS OF NORTHBROOK. (Breadmore, 1909.) Large
pale pink.

COUNTESS SPENCER. (Sydenham-Cole, 1904.) A lovely pale
pink. The original " Spencer/'

CCERULEA. (Faulkner and Aikens, 1913.) Blue, with mauve
tint in standard.

COWRIE. (Aldersey, 1910.) Bright pink self.

CREAM PARADISE. (Hemus, 1909.) Light primrose self.

CRIMSON GIANT. (Deal, 1913.) Bright crimson self.

CRIMSON PARADISE. (Hemus, 1908.) Crimson. Similar to
King Edward Spencer.

CRIMSON QUEEN. (Hobbie, 1916.) Crimson self.

CROMWELL. (Bolton, 1913.) White, flaked violet -mauve.

CRYSTAL. (Aldersey, 1912.) White, flushed pale rose.

CYNTHIA. (Ward, 1912.) Pink on cream ground. Some-
what in way of Mrs. Hugh Dickson.

CYRIL UNWIN. (Unwin, 1912.) Maroon and violet.

DAINTY SPENCER. (Bath, 1909.) See Elsie Herbert, with
which it is synonymous.

DAISY. (Gilbert, 1912.) Pink self, white ground.

DAZZLER. (Breadmore, 1910.) Bright glowing orange-
scarlet.

50

SPENCER VARIETIES

DECORATOR. (Dickson-Burpee, 1913.) A Rose du Barri

Spencer.

DELIGHT. (Deal, 1914.) Similar to Decorator.
DICK BIDE. (Bide, 1916.) Amaranth-red.
DISTINCTION. (Bath, 1910.) Similar to Dainty Spencer.
DOBBIE'S CREAM. (Dobbie, 1912.) Primrose self.
DOBBIE'S SCARLET. (Dobbie, 1913.) Bright scarlet self.
DOBBIE'S ORANGE. (Dobbie, 1915.) Similar to Robert

Sydenham.
DOBBIE'S TRUE LAVENDER. (Dobbie, 1913.) Pale blue self.

Similar to Margaret Madison.
DODWELL F. BROWN. (Eckford, 1909.) Crimson.
DON ALVAR. (Bolton, 1915.) A large pure lavender.
DORA. (Dobbie, 1917.) Cream, standard deep rose-pink

and salmon.

DORIS BURT. (Unwin, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self.
DORIS CLAYTON. (Breadmore, 1909.) Lavender.
DoRisUsHER. (Usher-Sutton, 191 1.) Pink on cream ground.
DOROTHY. (Bolton, 1912.) Rosy-lilac self. Similar to

Irish Belle.
DOROTHY HARLAND. (Bide, 1910.) Pale salmon, cream

ground.

DOROTHY LEES. (Lees-Sutton, 1913.) French gray self.
DOUGLAS UNWIN. (Unwin, 1910.) Maroon self.
DRAGONFLY. (Aldersey, 1913.) Lavender and rose on

cream ground.

DUCHESS OF PORTLAND. (Dobbie, 1915.) Cream-pink, suf-
fused apricot.
DUPLEX CREAM. (Morse, 1913.) Cream self with double

standards.
DUPLEX HELEN WILLIAMS. (Stark, 1917.) Color similar to

Cherub.
DUPLEX MAGGIE STARK. (Stark, 1913.) Rich orange with

double standards.
DUPLEX MAUVE. (Hobbie's, 1916.) A large duplex mauve

self.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

DUPLEX SCARLET. (Stark, 1914.) A double crimson-scarlet.
DUPLEX SPENCER (Dobbie-Burpee, 1912.) Rich pink on

cream ground.

DUSKY MONARCH. (Breadmore, 1910.) Dark purple-ma-
roon.

EARL CROMER SPENCER. (Bide, 1910.) Crimson-lake.
EARL OF CHESTER. (Ward, 1910.) Orange.
EARL OF LOVELACE. (Sutton, 1913.) A Duplex white.
EARL OF PLYMOUTH. (Baker, 1909.) Buff-colored self.
EARL SPENCER. (Cole, Dobbie, 1910.) A waved Henry

Eckford.

EASTERN .QUEEN. (Cross, 1913.) Pale watered blue.
E. C. MATTHEWS. (Jones, 1907.) Velvety maroon.
EDITH. (House, 1912.) In the way of Helen Grosvenor,

with double standards.

EDITH KING. (Unwin, 1914.) Blue veined on white ground.
EDITH TAYLOR. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Salmon-rose

self.

EDNA HARLAND. (Bide, 1911.) Carmine-pink.
EDNA MAY. (Woodcock, 1912.) White self.
EDNA TURNER. (Dipnall, 1911.) Cream-pink.
EDNA UNWIN. (Unwin, 1910.) Orange-scarlet.
EDROM BEAUTY. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1911.) Standard

orange, wings rosy-salmon. Similar to Helen Lewis.
EDWARD COWDY. (Unwin, 1915.) Fiery orange-scarlet.
E. J. DEAL. (Johnson, 1910.) White, edged rosy carmine.

Similar to Elsie Herbert.

ELAINE. (Hemus, 1910.) Standard mauve, wings white.
ELECTRIC. (King, 1913.) Purplish lavender.
ELFRIDA ELLICOTT. (Damerum, 1914.) Rosy magenta.
ELFRIDA PEARSON. (Pearson, 1911.) Blush-pink.
ELIZABETH. (Cross, 1913.) Brick-red self.
ELIZABETH HEMUS. (Hemus, 1910.) Blush-pink.
ELLA Box. (Box, 1914.) White flaked lavender.
ELSIE EDWARDS. (Stark, 1914.) A cream ground Mrs.

Cuthbertson.

52

SPENCER VARIETIES

ELSIE HERBERT. (Breadmore, 1908.) White, edged pale rose.

EMILY. (House, 1912.) Rosy mauve.

EMILY ECKFORD SPENCER. (Burpee, 1910.) Bluish purple.

EMMIE TATHAM. (Stark, 1910.) Rich rose.

EMPRESS. (Deal, 1910.) Rosy purple self.

EMPRESS EUGENIE. (Burpee, 1914.) Soft lavender flake
on white. Awarded certificate of merit, American Sweet
Pea Society* 191 1.

EMPIRE CRIMSON. (J. K. King, 1916.) A large crimson self.

EMPIRE WHITE. (J. K. King, 1916.) A fine white self.

ENCHANTRESS. (Stark, 1906.) Has proved to be synony-
mous with Countess Spencer.

ENID DAMERUM. (Lumley, 1912.) Chocolate self.

ERIC HARVEY. (Unwin, 1911.) Similar to Martha Wash-
ington.

ERIC HINTON. (Hinton Bros., 1904.) Bright pink, deeper
towards the edges.

ERNEST KING. (King, 1909.) Large orange-pink.

ESSEX BEAUTY. (King, 1910.) Clear blue.

ETHEL ROOSEVELT. (Burpee, 1911.) Light rose-pink,
striped on primrose ground.

ETTA DYKE. (Breadmore, 1908.) Synonymous with Bur-
pee's White Spencer.

EVANGELINE. (Ward, 1910.) Lavender self. .

EVELYN HEMUS. (Hemus, 1908.) Cream, with a picotee
edging of terra-cotta pink. Similar to Mrs. C. W. Bread-
more.

FAIR MAID. (Stark, 1910.) Flesh on cream ground.

FAITH. (Stevenson, 1917.) Pure lavender.

FARNHAM LAVENDER. (Bide, 1916.) Pure lavender self.

FAULKNER'S PRIMROSE. (Faulkner, 1912.) Primrose self,
black seeded.

FELICE LYNE. (Agate, 1913.) A lighter Stirling Stent.

FELICITY. (Bath, 1913.) Lilac self.

FIERY CROSS. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Scorching fire-red,
or scarlet.

53

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

FLAMINGO. (Aldersey, 1910.) Vermilion red.

FLORADALE FAIRY. (Burpee, 1915.) A new primrose self
of great merit.

FLORA NORTON SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Beautiful pale
blue — a charming color. Not of largest size.

FLORENCE MORSE SPENCER. (Morse, 1908.) Beautiful
light pink, deepening towards the edges. Similar to Prin-
cess Victoria and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes.

FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE. (Dickson-Burpee, 1911.) Clear
lavender self.

FLORENCE SPICER. (Jarman, 1913.) Bronzy-purple self.

FLORENCE WRIGHT. (Stark, 1910.) Pure white self.

FLORRIE. (Bolton, 1912.) Rosy crimson-lake.

FLOSSIE JEFFREY. (Breadmore, 1910.) Shrimp-pink on
cream ground.

FRANCES DEAL. (Deal, 1912.) Rosy heliotrope.

FRANK UNWIN. (Unwin, 1910.) Lavender, suffused mauve.

FREDA. (Breadmore, 1910.) White self.

FRED FAIRBURN. (Otter, 1910.) Pink self.

FREDA UNWIN. (Unwin, 1911.) Light blue.

FRILLED BUFF. (Stark, 1916.) Cream, suffused chamois.

FRILLED PINK. (Dobbie, 1915.) A duplex Countess
Spencer.

G. C. WAUD. (Cole, 1910.) Crimson self.

GENERAL TOWNSEND. (Hurst, 1917.) Deep rosy-mauve.

GEORGE BAXTER. (Bolton, 1909.) Maroon, shaded violet.

GEORGE CURZON. (Aldersey, 1912.) Dark blue flake.
Similar to Loyalty.

GEORGE HERBERT. (Breadmore, 1907.) Bright rosy-
carmine of largest size and best Spencer form. Synony-
mous with John Ingman.

GEORGE STARK. (Stark, 1910.) An intense dazzling scarlet.

GEORGE WASHINGTON. (Henderson, 1910.) Rose-crimson
self.

GERTIE HART. (Damerum, 1914.) Rose-mauve standard,
mauve wings.

54

SPENCER VARIETIES

GERTRUDE. (Cross, 1913.) Light rose-lavender self. Sim-
ilar to Charm.

GIANT CREAM WAVED. (Deal, 1910.) Primrose self.
GIPSY QUEEN. (Watkins & Simpson, 1909.) Similar to

but not so good as Ramona Spencer.

GLADYS BURT. (Unwin, 1910.) Salmon-pink, cream ground.
GLADYS COLE. (Jones & Sons, 191 1.) Lavender self.
GLITTERS. fLumley, 1910.) Orange-scarlet.
GLORY OF PARIS. (Clark, 1909.) Similar to Burpee's King

Edward Spencer.

GLOW. (Bath, 1915.) Synonymous with Robert Sydenham.
GOLDEN GLORY. (Stevenson, 1916.) Soft golden-orange.
GORDON ANKENTELL. (Breadmore, 1909.) Flame colored.
GORDON KEEBLE. (Deal, 1913.) Soft mauve on white

ground. Somewhat similar to Charm.
GRACE DARLING. (King, 1913.) Cream, suffused soft

orange-pink.
GRACE HARVEY. (Darnerum, 1917.) Royal blue wings;

purple standard.

GRENADIER. (Clark, 1909.) Scarlet self.
GREY DELIGHT. (Box, 1913.) Pale blue self. Similar to

Margaret Madison.

GUY HEMUS. (Hemus, 1910.) Light lavender self.
GUY LANGTON. (Lumley, 1912.) Deep bronze.
GWENDOLINE. (House, 1910.) Blue self.
HARRY BALFOUR. (Jarman, 1910.) Orange self.
HAWLMARK GLADYS. (Dickson, 1914.) Light cream-pink.

Flowers of largest size.
HELEN CHETWYND. (Sydenham, 1914.) Very similar to

Doris Usher.
HELEN GROSVENOR. (Aldersey, 1910.) Similar to Helen

Lewis, but richer.
HELEN LEWIS. (Breadmore-Watson, 1906.) Large, wavy,

orange-colored standard; wings, rosy-salmon.
HELEN PIERCE SPENCER. (Cross, 1913.) A waved Helen

Pierce.

55

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

HELEN WILLIAMS. (Stark, 1913.) Cream with rose edge.
HELIO PARADISE. (Hemus, 1910.) Pale rosy heliotrope.
HENRY OHN. (Dobbie, 1916.) A cream ground Frilled Pink.
HERCULES. (Stark, 1911.) Large pink self.
HEREWARD. (Stark, 1911.) Pale cerise self.
HILARY CHRISTY. (Dickson, 1916.) Orange-scarlet self.
HILDA. (Woodcock, 1911.) Orange-scarlet, rose wings.
HOBBIE'S CRIMSON. (Hobble's, 1916.) Bright crimson self.
HOLDFAST BEAUTY. (Hemus, 1911.) Similar to Constance

Oliver.

HOLDFAST BELLE. (Hemus, 1908.) Soft pink, tinged apricot.
HOLDFAST PINK. (Hemus, 1908.) Buff-pink self.
HONOR BRIGHT. (Stevenson, 1916.) Bright salmon-red.
HOPE. (Stevenson, 1917.) Clear soft rose.
HORACE SKIPPER. (Stark, 1908.) Deep rosy-pink.
HYACINTH. (Gilbert, 1910.) Magenta self, small.
IAN HAMILTON. (Damerum, 1917). Brilliant scarlet-cerise.
ILLUMINATOR. (Burpee, 1914.) Cerise-rose on salmon.
IOLANTHE. (Chapman-Mackereth, 1912.) White self.
IONA. (Gilbert, 1910.) Bluish-purple self.
INSPECTOR. (Dobbie, 1913.) Rich salmon.
IRENE DAMERUM. (Damerum, 1915.) Light violet-mauve

blush.
IVORY KING. (Bolton, 1916.) Ivory-cream slightly suffused

pink.

IRIS. (Breadmore, 1912.) Light salmon self.
IRISH BELLE OR DREAM. (Dickson-Burpee, 1912.) Rich

lilac flushed pink. Awarded certificate of merit by the

National Sweet Pea Society, 1911.
ISABEL. (Faulkner and Aitken, 1912.) Light salmon-pink

self.

ISOBEL MALCOLM. (Malcolm, 1911.) Primrose self.
IVANHOE. (Dobbie, 1910.) Lavender self.
IVY HERBERT. (Breadmore, 1909.) Rich plum self.
J.-.B. LOWE. (Hinton, 1917.) Orange-crimson standard;

wings white flushed pink.

56

SPENCER VARIETIES

JACK TAR. (Breadmore, 1911.) Dark blue with bronze
standard.

JACK UNWIN. (Unwin, 1909.) Rose flake, white ground.

J. T. TAYLOR. (Breadmore, 1909.) Plum colored.

JAMES Box. (Box, 1913.) Bright salmon self.

JARGOON. (Aldersey, 1910.) Heliotrope self..

JEAN IRELAND. (Dobbie, 1916.) Rich cream ground edged
carmine-rose.

JESSIE CUTHBERTSON SPENCER. (Morse, 1915.) Cream,
striped bright rose-pink.

JOHN INGMAN. (Sydenham-Cole, 1905.) Rosy-carmine with
darker shadings, large and of best form.

JOHN PORTER. (Dickson, 1917.) An improved Edrom Beauty.

JOHN RIDD. (Stark, 1912.) Large purple self.

JOSEPHINE BARNARD. (Bath, 1909.) Rosy-pink; standard
lighter than wings.

JOSEPHINE. (Wright, 1914.) A deeper Helen Lewis.

JULIET. (Deal, 1912.) Pale apricot on lemon ground.

KATHLEEN. (Deal, 1913.) Rich glowing cerise.

KATHLEEN MACGOWAN. (Breadmore, 1909.) Sky blue.
Similar to Flora Norton Spencer.

KING ALFONSO. (Breadmore, 1909.) Crimson, shaded ma-
genta. Similar to King Edward Spencer.
• KING ALFRED. (Breadmore, 1912.) Bright orange-pink.

KING EDWARD SPENCER. (Burpee, 1909.) Almost a crim-
son scarlet self. A magnificent flower.

KING GEORGE. (Woodcock, 1910.) Lilac-rose self.

KING GEORGE. (Woodcock, 1917.) Rosy-lavender.

KING MANGEL. (Stark, 1912.) Maroon self.

KING MAUVE. (Woodcock, 1914.) Mauve self.

KING WHITE. (Malcolm-Burpee-Dickson, 1914.) A superb
white self.

KITTY CLIVE. (Bolton, 1909.) Pale scarlet salmon.

KITTY CRIER. (Breadmore, 1909.) Rose and pink.

KOWHAI. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Ivory shaded
apricot.

57

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

KRALISSA. (Aldersey, 1913.) Pink self. Similar to Her-
cules.

LA BELLE SAUVAGE. (Savage, 1913.) Pale pink self.

LADY ALTHORP. (Cole, 1906.) White, beautifully tinted
buff. Similar to Mrs. Sankey Spencer.

LADY ARTHUR. (Aldersey, 1910.) Deep cerise and salmon-
pink.

LADY EVELYN EYRE. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Pale
pink, flushed salmon.

LADY FARREN. (Stark, 1909.) Rose. Somewhat similar
to Marie Corelli.

LADY FISHER. (Holmes, 1917.) Blush-pink, cream ground.

LADY FLORENCE WILLOUGHBY. (Gilbert, 1911.) Buff-pink
self.

LADY FRENCH. (Woodcock, 1916.) Orange-cerise and rosy-
•carmine.

LADY KNOX. (Dobbie, 1912.) A large blush cream.

LADY MILLER. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1913.) Buff, suffused
salmon-pink.

LADY ROSA. (Holmes, 1917.) Rose-pink, standard pale
pink, cream ground.

LADY SARAH SPENCER. (Cole, 1910.) Pink, suffused salmon.

LADY URSULA. (Ward, 1913.) A Helen Pierce Spencer.

LANCASHIRE. (Bolton, 1910.) Salmon-pink, creamy ground.
Similar to Miriam Beaver.

LAURA WYATT. (Dipnall, 1913.) Brilliant orange-pink.
Similar to King Alfred.

LAVENDER G. HERBERT. (Breadmore, 1909.) Lavender
self.

LAVENDER PARADISE. (Hemus, 1910.) Lavenderself. Synony-
mous with Florence Nightingale.

LAVENDER QUEEN. (Faulkner, 1912.) Soft lilac.

LEIGE. (Hobbie's, 1916.) White self.

LESLIE IMBER. (Unwin, 1912.) Rich blue self. Similar to
Flora Norton Spencer.

LIBERTY. (Lumley, 1910.) Crimson self.

58

SPENCER VARIETIES

LILA. (Dipnall, 1913.) Cream, flushed lilac-mauve.

LILAC QUEEN. (Bath, 1910.) Clear lilac self.

LILAC SPENCER. (Davies, 1911.) Lilac self.

LILAC SUNBONNET. (Aldersey, 1910.) Lilac and heliotrope.

LILIAN. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) Soft salmon-pink.

LINDA HEMUS. (Hemus, 1911.) Silvery mid-blue self.

LINDFIELD SURPRISE. (Box, 1913.) Lavender flake on
white.

LIZETTE LUMLEY. (Lumley, 1910.) Rose stripe on cream
ground.

LORD ABERCONWAY. (Holden, 1914.) Rich red prawn.

LORD CHARLES BERESFORD. (Alsen, 1910.) Rosy-mauve
self.

LORD CURZON. (Breadmore, 1913.) Rosy magenta.

LORD FISHER. (Holmes, 1916.) Rich red maroon self.

LORD KITCHENER. (Damerum, 1916.) Cerise-orange scar-
let.

LORD NELSON SPENCER. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) Dark-
blue self.

LORD NORTHCLIFFE. (Stark, 1910.) Cerise self.

LORN A DOONE. (Stark, 1908.) Pale blush.

LOUISE MATILDA. (Faulkner, 1912.) Large white self.

LOUVAIN. (Stark, 1915.) White, suffused salmon-pink.

LOVELY SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Bright pink at base of
standard and wings, becoming almost blush white at the
edges.

LOYALTY. (Stark, 1912.) Violet flake on white ground.

LUCY HEMUS. (Hemus, 1908.) Light pink on cream.

LYNETTE. (Dipnall, 1914.) A lighter Doris Usher.

MABEL BACCUS. (Uhwin, 1914.) A Helen Pierce Spencer.

MADGE RIDGARD. (Unwin, 1910.) White, flushed helio-
trope.

MAGGIE STARK. (Stark, 1909.) Orange-scarlet. Similar
to Helen Lewis.

MAGNIFICENT. (Stark, 1910.) Similar to Mrs. W. J.
Unwin.

59

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

MAIDEN. (Malcolm, 1915.) A very light pink self.
MAJESTIC. (Miller, 1912.) Large cream self.
MALCOLM'S WAVED CREAM. (Malcolm-King, 1909.) Same

as Primrose Spencer.
MAORI BELLE. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1911.) Lavender

self.

MAORI CHIEF. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Maroon self.
MARCHIONESS OF TWEEDDALE. (Bolton, 1911.) Similar to

Martha Washington.
MARGARET ATLEE. (Morse, 1913.) Apricot on cream

ground.

MARGARET FIFE. (Dobbie, 1916.) Bright blue self.
MARGARET MADISON. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Clear pale

blue self. Certificate of merit, National Sweet Pea

Society, 1911.

MARIE. (Cross, 1913.) White, flaked blue.
MARIE CORELLI. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Brilliant rose-
carmine or red.

MARINE. (Malcolm, 1915.) A rich blue self.
MARION. (Dipnall, 1915.) Clear rose-cerise.
MARION. (Dobbie, 1911.) Pale lilac rose.
MARJORIE DAMERUM. (Damerum, 1914.) Light blue self.
MARJORIE HEMUS. (Hemus, 1912.) White, picoteed blue.
MARJORIE LINZEE. (Breadmore, 1909.) Rosy pink.
MARJORIE WILLIS. (Lumley, 1908.) A large, rose colored

Spencer, resembling Marie Corelli.

MARKS TEY. (Dobbie, 1913.) Violet with bronze wings.
MARTHA WASHINGTON. (Henderson, 1910.) White edged

and flushed rose.

MARVEL. (Bolton, 1915.) Cream ground rosy-pink.
MARY GARDEN. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Pink on cream.
MARY VIPAN. (Eckford, 1910.) Rose self.
MASTERPIECE. (Dobbie, 1910.) Lavender self, flushed rose

on standard.
MAUD GUEST. (Eckford, 1909.) Synonymous with Lady

Al thorp.

60

SPENCER VARIETIES

MAUD HOLMES. (Holmes, 1910.) Crimson self. Similar
to King Edward Spencer.

MAUVE PARADISE. (Hemus, 1910.) Light mauve self.

MAUVE QUEEN. (Dobbie, 1912.) Bright mauve.

MAVIS. (-King, 1917.) Standard shaded khaki blush with
rose centre, white ground.

MAY CAMPBELL. (Dobbie, 1912.) Cream, flaked carmine.

MAY DAY. (Stark, 1916.) Deep sky-blue self.

MAY FARQUHAR. (Unwin, 1910.) Deep blue self.

MAY UNWIN. (Unwin, 1914.) Orange-scarlet.

MELBA. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1912.) Large pale salmon.

MELODY. (Dickson, 1914.) A magnificent cream-pink.

MENIE CHRISTIE. (Dobbie, 1908.) Standard purplish-car-
mine; wings, rosy magenta.

MERCIA. (Stark, 1910.) Pale salmon self.

MILLIE MASLIN SPENCER. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Ma-
genta-crimson self.

MINNA BURNABY. (Stark, 1917.) Bright shrimp suffused
salmon. Wings cream suffused pink.

MINNIE FURNELL. (Alsen, 1912.) Pink with cream eye.
Similar to Mrs. R. Hallam.

MINNIE ORST. (Deal, 1912.) Blue, veined white.

MIRIAM BEAVER. (Burpee-Morse; 1910.) Salmon-pink suf-
fused with buff or apricot on a primrose grouad.

Miss A. BROWN. (Darlington, 1909.) Synonymous with
Asta Ohn.

Miss BURNIE. (Dobbie, 1916.) Standard blush-pink; wings,
white.

Miss J. BROWN. (Aitkens, 1914.) Rich orange, scarlet wings.

Miss FRILLS. (Gilbert, 1909.) Similar to Mrs. Sankey
Spencer.

Miss L. E. KING. (King, 1909.) White, flaked orange-
pink.

Miss L. HAWKES. (Agate, 1913.) Light pink.

Miss M. A. LINZEE. (Breadmore, 1908.) A bright rosy-
pink self.

61

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

MISTRESS LUMLEY. (Lumley, 1910.) Cream flaked.

MOLLIE CLEGG. (Breadmore, 1910.) Lavender self.

MONEYMAKER. (Agate-Lumley, 1910.) White self.

MONITOR. (Bolton, 1910.) Rose flake.

MONTESUMA. (Bolton, 1915.) White, striped mahogany.

MORNING MIST. (King, 1915.) Distinct French-gray self.

MOTHER-O'-PEARL. (Aldersey-Sydenham, 1909.) Plum-
bago-blue.

MOONSTONE. (Aldersey, 1910.) Pale lavender-gray self.

MRS. A. G. GENTLE. (Sydenham, 1916.) White, heavily
edged bright rose.

MRS. ALEX. WARE. (Bolton, 1910.) Cream, shaded apri-
cot.

MRS. ALSEN. (Alsen, 1910.) Clear blue self.

MRS. ANDREW IRELAND. (Dobbie, 1909.) Similar to Apple
Blossom Spencer, but on a buff ground.

MRS. A. MALCOLM. (Malcolm-Mackereth, 1909.) Cream
self.

MRS. ARTHUR STEVENSON. (Unwin, 1916.) Lilac-mauve on
white.

MRS. B. GILBERT. (Gilbert, 1914.) Rose, veined.

MRS. BRYCE. (Bolton, 1911.) White, edged buff.

MRS. C. P. TOMLIN. (Woodcock, 1917.) Scarlet with a
touch of fiery red.

MRS. E. A. TANQUERAY. (Damerum, 1915.) Deep cerise-
scarlet.

MRS. E. C. McEwEN. (Damerum, 1916.) A large cream-
pink.

MRS. E. WRIGHT. (Bolton, 1916.) White, flushed mauve,
edged blue.

MRS. FRED. KELLEY. (Hobbie's, 1915.) Similar to Mrs.
Town send.

MRS. CHARLES FOSTER. (Baker, 1907.) A rosy-lavender
Spencer.

MRS. CHARLES MANDER. (Baker, 1907.) Rich magenta
with rather darker wings.

62

SPENCER VARIETIES

MRS. CUTHBERTSON. (Dobbie, 1912.) Pink with white

wings.
MRS. C. W. BREADMORE. (Breadmore, 1908.) Buff ground

with picotee edge of rose.
MRS. D. DENHOLM FRASER. (Unwin, 1913.) Salmon flaked

on white.

MRS. E. COWDY. (Bolton, 1913.) Large maroon self.
MRS. E. DARLINGTON. (Darlington*, 1910.) Rose, cream

ground.

MRS. DUNCAN. (Stark, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self.
MRS. E. J. JOHNSTONE. (Johnstone, 1910.) Salmon-buff

self.

MRS. E. NOAKES. (Agate-Lumley, 1910.) Lavender self.
MRS. E. OTTER. (Otter, 1910.) French gray, veined.
MRS. F. WELLESLEY. (Wellesley, 1910.) Cream, tinged

blush.

MRS. FRED AREY. (Breadmore, 1913.) Cream, flushed pink.
MRS. GEORGE CHARLES. (Bolton, 1910.) Dark blue.
MRS. GIBBS Box. (Box, 1912.) Salmon-pink, cream

ground. .
MRS. HARDCASTLE SYKES. (Bolton, 1906.) A pale pink

Spencer. Similar to Princess Victoria and Florence Morse

Spencer.

MRS. HARRIETTS HEMUS. (Hemus, 1912.) Pale salmon.
MRS. H. CHIVERS. (Unwin, 1910.) Cream-pink.
MRS. H. E. WARD. (Aitkens, 1914.) Rich golden pink.
MRS. H. G. TIGWELL. (Unwin, 1911.) Similar to Ethel

Roosevelt.

MRS. HERBERT HEMUS. (Hemus, 1911.) Magenta.
MRS. HESLINGTON. (Heslingt on- Dobbie, 1912.) Lavender,

shaded mauve.

MRS. H. LEES. (Agate, 1913.) Bright pink.
MRS. H. LOWE. (Lowe, 1910.) Salmon-rose.
MRS. HOLROYD. (Breadmore, 1913.) Bright maroon self.
MRS. HENRY BELL. (Bolton, 1908.) Rich apricot pink on

cream ground. Similar to Mrs. Routzahn.
6?

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

MRS. HUGH DICKSON. (Dobbie, 1910.) A beautiful rich

apricot on cream ground, shaded pink.
MRS. HUGH WORMALD. (Hobbie's, 1915.) Salmon-rose,

cream wings.

MRS. H. J. DAMERUM. (Damerum, 1915.) Deep cream self.
MRS. J. BALMER. (Unwin, 1915.) Cream, heavily suffused

reddish-pink.

MRS. JAMES C. HOUSE. (House, 1912.) Mauve with pur-
plish wings. Synonymous with Tennant Spencer.
MRS. J. EMMETT. (Bolton, 1914.) Light apricot -pink
MRS. JESSOP. (Bolton, 1914.) Glowing cerise-pink.
MRS. JOSEPH CHAMBERLAIN SPENCER. (Bath, 1909.) White

striped with rose.

MRS. KATE HAMMOND. (Hobbie's, 1916.) A large satiny-pink.
MRS. LANCASTER. (Bolton, 1910.) Cream-pink self.
MRS. L. C. HOCKEY. (Jarman, 1913.) Pale rosy-rnauve.
MRS. McItwRiCK. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1914.) Rosy mauve

standard, mauve wings.

MRS. MILLER. (Miller, 1910.) Primrose self.
MRS. R. HALLAM. (Unwin, 1911.) Soft salmon pink on

cream ground. Similar to Doris Usher.
MRS. REGINALD HILL. (King, 1913.) A lilac-lavender self.

Very similar to Irish Belle.
MRS. ROUTZAHN. (Burpee, 1909.) Buff or apricot ground,

flushed and suffused with delicate pink.
MRS. R. W. PITT. (Stark, 1909.) Rosy cerise.
MRS. SAN KEY SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) A black seeded

White Spencer, showing a tinge of buff in the bud stage.

Not of largest size.

MRS. S. CHAMPION. (Bfde, 1910.) Creamy-pink self.
MRS. TOWNSEND. (Jarman, 1910.) White, flushed and

edged blue.
MRS. T. G. BAKER. (Baker, 1909.) White edged and tinted

amber buff. Similar to Lady Althorp.
MRS. W. HODGES. (Damerum, 1917.) White with blue

markings.

64

SPENCER VARIETIES

MRS. W. J. UNWIN. (Unwin, 1910.) Orange flake on white

ground.

MRS.' WALTER CARTER. (Bunting, 1909.) A lavender col-
ored Spencer.
MRS. WM. KING. (King, 1908.) Synonymous with John

Ingman.
MRS. W. S. BIRCH. (Jones, 1911.) Mauve-pink on cream

ground.
MRS. WALTER WRIGHT SPENCER. (Routzahn, 1910.) Mauve

self.
MRS. T. W. WARREN. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Bright

blue, veined on white.

MRS. WILCOX. (Gilbert, 1909.) Similar to America Spencer.
MULBERRY. (Aldersey, 1912.) Mulberry-red self.
MURIEL QUICK. (Unwin, 1913.) Blue veined on white.
MYSTERY. (Aldersey, 1912.) Pale pink, flushed salmon.
NANCY. (Bolton, 1910.) Shrimp-pink self.
NANCY PERKINS. (Perkins-Unwin, 1910.) A Spencer Henry

Eckford.

NAVY BLUE SPENCER. (Breadmore, 1909.) Blue.
NELL G WYNNE. (Stark, 1908.) Deep cream, suffused with

salmon. Similar to Constance Oliver.
NETTIE JENKINS. (Unwin, 1911.) Light lavender self.
NORA BELSHAM. (Bide, 1914.) Pinkish-lilac.
NEW MARQUIS. (Dobbie, 1914!) Rich mauve.
NORA HERRON. (Wright, 1914.) Deep salmon self.
NORMA. (Clark, 1909.) Blush, suffused pale salmon; pink

at edges of petals.

NORMAN HARVEY. (Damerum, 1914.) White, flushed rose.
NORVIC. (Holmes, 1915.) Large pure white self.
NUBIAN. (House, 1910.) Chocolate self.
OLIVE BOLTON. (Bolton, 1907.) Deep rosy pink.
OLIVE BRIGHT. (Dickson, 1913.) Rich rose.
OLD ROSE. (Malcolm- Dobbie, 1916.) Distinct old rose

shade.
OLIVE RUFFELL. (Stark, 1908.) Bright rosy salmon.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

OPAL. (Aldersey, 1910.) Pale lavender-blue.

ORANGE KING. (Bide, 1911.) Salmony orange.

ORANGE PERFECTION. (Box, 1912.) Orange with rose

wings.

ORANGE SEEDLING. (Hemus, 1911.) Orange self.
ORCHID. (Malcolm- Burpee, 1913.) Lovely shade of helio.
ORION. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Deep reddish-crimson.
OTHELLO SPENCER. (Burpee-Morse, 1909.) A rich, deep

maroon of largest size.
OVERCOMER. (Alsen, 1910.) Pink self.
PARADISE. (Sydenham, 1907.) Same as Countess Spencer.
PARADISE CARMINE. (Hemus, 1907.) Synonymous with

John Ingman.
PARADISE IVORY. (Hemus, 1907.) Synonymous with Queen

Victoria Spencer.

PARADISE ORANGE. (Hemus, 1911.) Salmon-orange self.
PARADISE RED FLAKE. (Hemus, 1908.) A waved America,

red flaked on white ground.

PATHFINDER. (Stark, 1915.) Similar to King Alfred.
PEACE. (Stevenson, 1916.) Soft pink self.
PEARL. (Aldersey, 1910.) Pure white.
PEARL-GRAY SPENCER. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Dove-gray

suffused light rose.

PEDESTAL. (Bolton, 1913.) Rich cream, flaked dark rose.
PEGGY. (Lumley, 1912.) Blush.
PEGGY MACKERETH. (Holmes, 1915.) Rose-lavender,

flushed magenta.

PETER BLAIR. (Bolton, 1914.) Cream, striped rose.
PETUNIA SPENCER. (Stark, 1915.) Light cerise self.
PHANTOM BLUE. (Malcolm-Burpee, 1916.) Art shades of

blue and lavender.

PHYLLIS BIDE. (Bide, 1915.) Similar to Robert Sydenham.
PHYLLIS. (Unwin, 1914.) Mrs. W. J. Unwin margined

white.
PICOTEE. (Wat kins and Simpson, 1910.) Same as Dainty

Spencer.

66

SPENCER VARIETIES

PLASH ET BEAUTY. (Savage, 1910.) Pinkish mauve, lav-
ender wings.

PREMIER. (Stark, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self.

PRESIDENT. (House, 1909.) Similar to Senator Spencer.

PRIDE OF COOMBE. (House, 1910.) White, flaked rose.

PRIMROSE BEAUTY. (Stark, 1912.) Primrose self.

PRIMROSE KING. (Jarman, 1910.) Primrose self.

PRIMROSE SPENCER. (Burpee, 1908.) Deep primrose or
creamy yellow, of largest size. Clara Curtis, Althorp
Cream, Malcolm's Cream, and Primrose Paradise are all
synonymous.

PRIMROSE WAVED. (Eckford, 1908.) Same as Primrose
Spencer.

PRINCE GEORGE. (Bolton, 1912.) Lilac-rose, reddish-violet
wings.

PRINCE OF ASTURIAS. (Breadmore, 1908.) Standards deep
chocolate; wings deep purple. Similar to Othello Spencer.

PRINCESS ALICE. (Bath, 1909.) Same shade as the grandiflora
Emily Eckford.

PRINCESS HENRY OF BATTENBERG. (Miller, 1917.) Rosy-
lavender self.

PRINCESS JULIANA. (Breadmore, 1910.) Primrose self.

PRINCESS KATHERINE. (Bath, 1909.) Pale blush pink.

PRINCESS MARY. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) Bright silky
blue. In way of Flora Norton Spencer.

PRINCESS VICTORIA. (Dobbie, 1908.) A light pink Spencer
of largest size, similar to Florence Morse Spencer.

PROGRESS. (King, 1916.) Rich pink self.

PURITY. (Bolton, 1908.) Synonymous with White Spencer.

PURPLE PRINCE. (Dickson-Burpee, 1911.) Standard pur-
plish-maroon, wings rosy-purple.

QUAKER MAID. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1914.) Dove-gray, wings
lavender.

QUEEN EIRA. (Jenkins-Parsons, 1912.) White. Black seeded.

QUEEN MARY. (King, 1910.) Pink on cream ground.

QUEEN MOTHER. (Breadmore, 1913.) Deep lilac self.

67

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

QUEEN OF NORWAY. (Bolton, 1910.) Heliotrope-mauve

self.
QUEEN VICTORIA SPENCER. (Burpee, 1909.) A black seeded

Primrose Spencer, flushed rose in the bud stage.
QUEENIE. (Deal, 1909.) Ivory, tinted blush.
RADIANCE. (Dickson, 1914.) Orange, scarlet wings. Very

similar to Thomas Stevenson.
RADIANT. (Ward, 1913.) Rich rosy-pink.
RAINBOW SPENCER. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) Ivory white,

flaked rose.
RAMONA SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) White, flaked light

pink or blush.

RATA. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Deep crimson self.
RED ADMIRAL. (Aldersey, 1913.) Crimson self.
RED CHIEF. (Bolton, 1910.) Red maroon.
RED CROSS. (Stevenson, 1916.) Rich velvety-crimson self.
RED ISOBEL. (Malcolm, 1917.) A fine red.
RED STAR. (Malcolm-Dobbie, 1912.) Crimson-scarlet self.
RENA OLIVER. (Lumley, 1910.) Light pink self.
RHEIMS. (Hobbie's, 1916.) Orange-scarlet self.
R. F. FELTON. (Bolton, 1912.) Lavender self.
ROBERT SYDENHAM. (Holmes, 1915.) Rich orange-salmon

self.
ROMANI RAUNI. (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) A buff

ground Countess Spencer.

ROSABELLE. (Malcolm, 1912.) Distinct shade of rose.
ROSABELLE HOARE. (Unwin, 1909.) Rose flake on white

ground.

ROSALIND. (Clark, 1909.) A deep rose-colored Spencer.
ROSE DIAMOND. (Aldersey, 1913.) Very similar to Decora-
tor.
ROSEMARY. (Aldersey and Marsden Jones, 1913.) Similar

to Rosabelle.
ROSIE ADAMS. (Stevenson-Wright, 1908.) Rosy mauve.

Similar to Captivation Spencer.
ROSIE GILBERT. (Gilbert, 1908.) A crimson self.

68

SPENCER VARIETIES

ROSIE SYDENHAM. (Sydenham, 1906.) Synonymous with
John Ingman.

ROSINA. (Bolton, 1915.) Rosy-heliotrope, cream ground.

ROSY RAPTURE. (Stevenson, 1916.) White, margined rosy-
pink.

ROTOITI. (Trevethick-Mackereth, 1912.) Cream, flushed
pink.

ROYAL PURPLE. (R. Wright, 1913.) Rich purple.

ROYAL RED. ( Aldersey, 1913.) Dark crimson self.

ROYAL SCARLET. (Aldersey, 1910.) Scarlet self.

ROWENA. (King, 1916.) A cream ground Mrs. Cuthbert-
son.

RUBY. (Aldersey, 1910.) Orange-scarlet, wings reddish rose.

RUBY. (Bolton, 1910.) Reddish magenta.

RUBY PALMER. (Dobbie, 1914.) Bright ruby-red.

RUTH BIDE. (Bide, 1916.) Rich rosy-cerise.

RUTH EARL. (Lumley, 1911.) Chocolate-colored self.

SALMON QUEEN. (Bolton, 1915.) Soft salmon-pink and rose.

SCARLET EMPEROR. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Bright scar-
let self.

SCARLET EMPRESS. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Scarlet self.

SCARLET MONARCH. (Deal, 1910.) Crimson-scarlet self.

SCOTCH PEARL. (Aldersey, 1910.) Lavender, flushed pink.

SEAFOAM. (Cole, 1910.) White self.

SEAMEW. (Cautley, 1912.) Pale blue. Similar to Margaret
Madison.

SEASHELL. (Aldersey, 1910.) Light lilac-rose, cream ground.

SENATOR SPENCER. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Deep claret or
wine-color stripes and flakes on a light heliotrope ground.

SHAWONDASEE. (Hemus, 1910.) Similar to Flora Norton
Spencer.

SILAS COLE. (Cole, 1909.) Dark maroon.

SILVER DAWN. (Cross, 1913.) Buff, marbled lavender-
blue. Similar to Helen Pierce Spencer.

SILVER WINGS. (Stark, 1908.) Similar but not so good as
Ramona Spencer.

69

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

SINCERITY. (Deal, 1914.) Rich deep cerise.
SKYLINE. (Dickson, 1914.) Clear soft blue.
SNOWFLAKE. (Breadmore, 1910.) White self.
SOUTHCOTE BLUE. (Sutton, 1913.) Pale blue self.
STANLEY CRISP. (Dipnall, 1915.) White self.
STEETON, (Bolton, 1914.) Terra-cotta pink.
STEVENSON'S WHITE. (Stevenson, 1913.) White self.
STIRLING STENT. (Agate, 1911.) Bright salmon-orange.
SUFFRAGETTE. (House, 1910.) Lavender flake on white

ground.

SULTAN. (Hobbies, 1914.) Deep maroon.
SUNPROOF CRIMSON. (Sydenham-Holmes, 1910.) Similar

to King Edward Spencer.
SUNPROOF KING ALFONSO. (Breadmore, 1910.) Similar

to King Edward Spencer.
SUNRISE. (Gilbert, 1909.) An orange self, but not so good

as Helen Lewis.

SURPRISE. (Bolton, 1917.) Rich pink, or shrimp-pink.
SUTTON'S QUEEN. (Sutton-Rothera, 1908.) Buff ground,

flushed and edged pink.

SUTTON'S SUNPROOF CRIMSON. (Sutton, 1913.) Crimson selj".
SYEIRA LEE. (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) A rich salmon

pink on a buff ground.
TARBOOSH. (Aldersey, 1910.) Red self.
TARBRUSH. (Aldersey, 1910.) Dark claret.
TEA ROSE. (Dobbie, 1917.) Salmon-rose.
TENNANT SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish mauve of

largest size and best Spencer form.

THE ABBOTT. (Stark, 1913.) French gray, flaked chocolate.
THE HON. DELIA SPENCER. (Cole, 1910.) Light magenta.
THE KING. (Dobbie, 1909.) Similar to Burpee's King

Edward Spencer.

THE LADY EVELINE. (Malcolm, 1916.) Rich rosy-mauve.
THE MARQUIS. (Dobbie, 1908.) Rosy heliotrope.
THE PRESIDENT. (Dickson-Burpee, 1916.) Dazzling orange

scarlet self.

70

SPENCER VARIETIES

THE SQUIRE. (Faulkner, 1912.) Crimson-scarlet self.

THE SULTAN. (Bide, 1910.) Maroon self.

THOMAS STEVENSON. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1911.) Rich

orange-scarlet.

THORA. (Stark, 1910.) Pale pink with darker edges.
TOM BOLTON. (Bolton, 1910.) Dark maroon self.
TOPAZ. (Aldersey, 1910.) Ivory self.
TORTOISESHELL. (Aldersey, 1913.) Shrimp-pink.
TRIUMPH SPENCER. (Bolton, 1909.) Salmon-pink bi-color.
TRUE BLUE. (Aldersey, 1912.) Indigo-blue self.
UNWIN'S CREAM. (Unwin, 1917.) Deep primrose.
UNWIN'S LAVENDER. (Unwin, 1917.) Soft lavender.
VEILED BRIDE. (Morse, 1914.) White, marbled pink.
VERA JEFFERY. (Breadmore, 1908.) A pale pink.
VERA LEES. (Lees, 1913.) Buff, suffused salmon-pink.
VERDUN. (Bolton, 1917.) Standard rich rose-crimson;

wings deep rose.
VERMILION BRILLIANT. (Dickson-Burpee, 1912.) Bright

scarlet self.

VERONIQUE. (Lumley, 1911.) Bluish-purple, veined.
VESUVIUS. (King, 1915.) Similar to Scarlet Emperor,
VICTORY. (Stevenson, 1916.) Rich salmon-red,
VICTORY. (Bolton, 1917.) Standard heliotrope; wings

lavender.

VICTOR UNWIN. (Unwin, 1913.) Chocolate self.
VIOLA RATCLIFFE. (Breadmore, 1910.) Rosy-lavender self.
VIOLET CRABB. (Bide, 1911.) Reddish lavender.
WALTER P. WRIGHT. (Unwin, 1912.) Light lavender.
WARRIOR. (Malcolm, 1915.) Rich red; wings rosy-pink.
WARRIOR. (Stevenson, 1916.) Deep salmon-red self.
WATERWITCH. (Bunting, 1911.) Cream ground, picotee

edge.

WAVED CREAM. (Malcolm-Mackereth, 1909.) Cream self.
WAVERLEY SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) Purplish maroon,

wings rosy-purple.
WEDGWOOD. (Dickson-Burpee, 1914.) Light-blue self.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

WEDDING BELLS. (J. K. King, 1916.) Pale rosy-lilac self.
WENVOE CASTLE. (Gerhold, 1910.) Rosy mauve.
WHITE PERFECTION. (Damerum, 1916.) Large white self.
WHITE QUEEN. (Stark, 1912.) Large white self.
WHITE SPENCER. (Burpee, 1908.) Pure white, of largest

size. It is identical with Etta Dyke.

WHITE WAVED. (Eckford, 1908.) Similar to White Spencer.
WINIFRED DEAL. (Deal, 1910.) Similar to Dainty Spencer.
WINIFRED SAVAGE. (Savage, 1910.) Purplish heliotrope.
WINIFRED UNWIN. (Unwin, 1912.) Pale lavender self.
WINNIE JONES. (Stark, 1909.) Cream flaked rose.
WINSOME. (Deal, 1910.) Pink, suffused heliotrope.
W. R. BEAVER. (Bolton, 1910.) Claret stripe on gray

ground. Similar to Senator Spencer.
W. T. HUTCHINS. (Burpee-Morse, 1910.) Light apricot

or buff overlaid with a beautiful blush pink.
YANKEE. (House, 1909.) An America Spencer.
ZARA. (Hemus, 1908.) Salmon-pink.
ZARINA SPENCER. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1913.) A waved

Zarina.

ZEBRA. (Hemus, 1910.) Rosy mauve flake, white ground.
ZEPHYR. (J-Iemus, 1908.) A silvery blue self. Similar to

Flora Norton Spencer.
ZILLAH SMITH. (Unwin, 1914.) Cream, margined rose.

"UNWIN" VARIETIES

UNWIN TYPE OF SWEET PEAS
These resemble the Spencer type, having the same
wavy form, but are not so large, the original variety
being Gladys Unwin. The vines are thrifty and pro-
duce abundantly the handsome waved flowers which
make most .attractive bouquets. Nora Unwin is
especially fine in form, and Frank Dolby is to be classed
among the best lavender or light blues.

A. J. COOK. (Unwin, 1907.) Violet mauve self. Variable.

ANGLIAN BLUE. (King, 1909.) A waved Flora Norton.

BLUSH QUEEN. (Dobbie, 1907.) Pale blush.

CHRISSIE UNWIN. (Unwin, 1908.) Rosy-red self.

E. J. CASTLE. (Unwin, 1907.) Light rosy carmine, with

light salmon shading.

FRANK DOLBY. (Unwin, 1907.) Lavender blue.
GLADYS UNWIN. (Unwin, 1905.) Pale pink, beautifully

waved.

JACK UNWIN. (Unwin, 1909.) Rose flake on white ground.
Miss E. F. DRAYSON. (Unwin, 1908.) Crimson-scarlet self.
Miss FRILLS. (Gilbert, 1909.) White shaded blush.
MRS. ALFRED WATKINS. (Unwin, 1907.) Pink shading

to blush.
NORA UNWIN. (Unwin, 1907.) Pure white, beautifully

waved.

PHOENIX. (King, 1909.) White, flushed and shaded lilac.
PHYLLIS UNWIN. (Unwin, 1906.) Rosy carmine self.
PINK PEARL. (Unwin, 1907.) Rich pink self.

73

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

LIST OF GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS
Since the introduction of the Spencer type very little
has been done to improve the grandifloras, hybridizers
devoting their energies to the further development of
the Spencers, but although the latter is now the most
popular, there is still a good demand for the older type.

Abbreviations: H., Hooded Standard; S. H., Slightly Hooded
Standard; E., Erect Standard.

An asterisk (*) denotes that the variety is nearly extinct.

Two asterisks (**) mean that the variety is little known, but listed
in a few catalogs.

ACME.** (H.

J. Jones, 1908.)

ECKFORD'S "BLANCHE BURPEE."

A typical bloom of the erect or expanded

type.

ALBATROSS.** (Dobbie, 1907.)
variety. S. H.

74

Blush white. S. H.

ADMIRATION. (Bur-
pee, 1900.) Beau-
tiful pink laven-
der. H.

ADONIS.* (Carter,
1884.) Standard
carmine pink with
rosy wings. E.

ADMIRAL TOGO.**
(Breadmore, 1906.)
Extremely dark
violet maroon. H.

AGNES ECKFORD.
(Eckford, 1907.)
A soft blush pink,
self color. H.

AGNES JOHNSTON.
(Eckford, 1903.)
Standards are rose
pink, shaded cream ;
pinkish buff wings.
E.
A pure white black-seeded

GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS

ALBA MAGNIFICA.* (Henderson, 1890.) A pure white self.
E.

ALBION.** (Stark, 1906.) Ivory white.

ALICE ECKFORD.* (Eckford, 1896.) Creamy white, with
tinge of purplish violet. E.

AMERICA. (Vaughan, 1896 ) White striped red. E.

AMERICAN BELLE.* (Burpee, 1894.) Standard bright rose;
wings white with carmine spots. Now discarded. E.

AMERICAN QUEEN.* (Burpee, 1902.) Standard clear sal-
mon red; wings bright deep rose. E.

ANNIE B. GILROY.** (Eckford, 1909.) Deep cerise.

ANNIE STARK.** (Stark, 1906.) White, delicately flushed
with pale pink.

APPLE BLOSSOM. (Eckford, 1887.) Shaded and edged soft
rose on white. H.

AURORA. (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, striped orange
salmon. S. H.

AUTOCRAT.** Better known under the name of Indigo King.

AZURE FAIRY. (Bath, 1910.) French gray, watered blue.

BADEN POWELL.** (Jones & Son, 1901.) Similar to Cap-
tain of the Blues. S. H.

BAKER'S SCARLET.** (Baker, 1909.) Scarlet self. E.

BEACON. (Bolton, 1906.) Standard cerise with creamy
wings. E.

BLACK.* (Noble, Cooper & Bolton, 1880.) Generally
known as Invincible Black. E.

BLACKBIRD.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) Blackish maroon.
Synonymous with Midnight. S. H.

BLACK KNIGHT. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard dark claret,
wings brownish purple. E.

BLACK MICHAEL. (Eckford, 1905.) Bright shining reddish
maroon. E.

BLANCHE BURPEE. (Eckford, 1895.) Snowy white. E.

BLANCHE FERRY. (Ferry, 1889.) Standard bright rose-
pink; wings creamy white. E. *

BLUE BELLE. (Bide, 1909.) Bright blue.

75

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

BLUE EDGED.* (Trevor Clarke-Carter, 1883.) White and

pink edged with blue. E.

BLUE HYBRID.* Probably identical with Blue Edged. E.
BLUSHING BEAUTY.* (Eckford, 1893.) S°ft rose-pink. H.
BOLTON'S PINK. (Bolton, 1905.) Rich orange-pink. E.
BOREATTON.* (Eckford, 1887.) Dark maroon self. E.
BOUQUET. (Deal, 1912.) A pink Helen Pierce.
BRIDE OF NIAGARA.* (Vick, 1895.) Bright carmine rose

standard; wings white, tinged pink; double flowers. E.
BRIDESMAID. (Vaughan, 1904.) Carmine shading to rose

and pink; wings of a lighter shade. E.
BRILLIANT.* (Burpee, 1897.) Crimson scarlet. S. H.
BRILLIANT BLUE. (Burpee, 1907.) The standard is very

large, slightly hooded, of the richest dark navy blue; the

shaded purple wings are deep Oxford blue. E.
BRITANNIA.** (Dobbie, 1904.) White, flaked crimson. S.

H.

BRONZE KING.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1894.) Coppery stand-
ard, ivory white wings. E.
BRONZE PRINCE.* (Eckford-Bull, 1885.) Standard rose

flushed bronze scarlet with pale blush wings. E.
BUTTERFLY.* (Sutton, 1878.) White, edged and shaded

with blue. H.
CALIFORNIA.* (Lynch, 1897.) Very pale pink, self colored.

H.

CALYPSO.* (Eckford, 1900.) . Magenta, and veined mauve.
! E.
CAPRICE.** (Johnson, 1906.) White, delicately shaded

pale pink. S. H.
CAPTAIN CLARKE.* (Clarke-Sharpe, date of introduction

unknown.) White, flushed and penciled with carmine;

wings blue edged. E.
CAPTAIN OF THE BLUES. (Eckford, 1890.) Standard bright

purple blue; wings paler blue. E.
CAPTIVATION. (Eckford, 1897.) Of a deep magenta shade.

S. H.

76

GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS

CARDINAL.* (Eckford, 1885.) Scarlet crimson. E.

CARMEN SYLVA.* (Laxton, 1892.) Claret shading to white;
wings light lilac. E.

CARMINE ROSE.** (Muskett.) Date of introduction not
known. Better known as Princess Beatrice. Color, light
pink. E.

CELESTIAL.* (Lorenz, 1896.) Standard light mauve; wings
lavender. -H.

CHANCELLOR.* (Eckford, 1898.) Standard bright orange;
wings bright orange pink. H.

COCCINEA. (Eckford, 1901.) Self colored, bright rich cherry.
E.

COLONIST.* (Eckford, 1898.) Soft lilac, overlaid bright
rose. S. H.

COLUMBIA.* (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, suffused pur-
ple and penciled pink. E.

COQUETTE. (Eckford, 1896.) Deep primrose, shaded with
lavender. S. H.

CORAL GEM.** (Vaughan, 1907.) Light coral self. H.

CORONATION.** (Introducer and year of introduction un-
known.) Blush with pink at the back of the standard.

CORONET.* (Walker-Hutchins, 1898.) White striped with
orange pink. E.

COUNTESS CADOGAN. (Eckford, 1899.) Bluish purple stand-
ard and clear blue wings. E.

COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN.* (Eckford, 1896.) Self colored
soft pink. H.

COUNTESS OF LATHOM. (Eckford, 1900.) A soft cream tint,
heavily shaded with flesh pink in the center of the standard.
H.

COUNTESS OF Powis.* (Eckford, 1897.) Glowing orange,
suffused with purple. E.

COUNTESS OF RADNOR. (Eckford, 1891.) Light lavender
with faint purplish tinge. H.

COUNTESS OF SHREWSBURY.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose stand-
ard with white wings. E.

77

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

CREAM OF BROCKHAMPTON.** (Foster, year of introduction
unknown.) A clear cream self.

CREOLE.* (Burpee, 1896.) The standard is a light-pinkish
lavender with wings of pure lavender. E.

CROWN JEWEL. (Eckford, 1896.) Primrose ground, veined
with violet. H.

CROWN PRINCESS OF PRUSSIA.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1869.)
Deep pink shading to very light pink. For some time this
was a popular variety with florists. E.

CYRIL BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Rosy carmine.
S, H.

DAINTY. (Burpee, 1903.) The flowers on first opening
appear to be white, but quickly change to white with pink
edge, making a most charming contrast; there is more pink
on the edges of the standard than on the edges of the wings.
S. H.

DAVID R. WILLIAMSON. (Eckford, 1905.) The large stand-
ard is of a rich indigo blue, while the wings are slightly
lighter in shade. S. H.

DAWN.** (Stark.) Standard light crimson magenta;
wings white shaded crimson. S. H.

DAYBREAK.* (Burpee, 1896.) White marbled rose and crim-
son. E.

DELICATA.* (Stark, 1906.) White tinted with pink. S. H.

DELIGHT.* (Eckford, 1889.) White crested with crimson.
This variety never became popular. E.

DEVONSHIRE CREAM.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Cream
self. E.

DOLLY VARDEN.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard bright pur-
ple-magenta shading lighter, almost white on the sides and
penciled with heavy maroon at the base. H.

DOMINO.** (Henderson, 1905.) Known by its more popu-
lar name, "Speckled Beauty," — which is described as hav-
ing primrose ground marbled with crimson.

DORA BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A primrose self,
shaded buff. S. H.

78

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

DOROTHY ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1903.) Large, pure white

flower. S. H.

DOROTHY TENNANT. (Eckford, 1892.) Rosy mauve. H.
DOROTHY VICK.** (Vick, 1897.) Standard scarlet, wings

crimson, produces double flowers. E.
DOUGLAS BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A bright

purple flake. S. H. -

DUCHESS OF EDINBURGH.* (Eckford, 1887.) Crimson. E.
DUCHESS "OF

SUTHERLAND.*

(Eckford, 1898.)

Pearly white,

suffused light

pink. H.
DUCHESS OF

WESTMINSTER.

(Eckford, 1900.)

Apricot flushed

pink; wings rose

pink. S. H.
DUCHESS OF

YORK.* (Eck-
ford,

White

with

DOROTHY ECKFORD.
Representing the slightly hooded type.

1895.)

striped
pinkish
purple. E.
DUDLEY LEES.**

(Breadmore, 1908.) A deep maroon. S. H.
DUKE OF CLARENCE.* (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy claret. H.
DUKE OF SUTHERLAND. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard deep

claret; wings deep violet blue. H.
DUKE OF WESTMINSTER. (Eckford, 1899.) Rosy claret. H.
DUKE OF YORK.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard rosy pink;

wings white. E.

EARL CROMER. (Eckford, 1907.) Standard reddish mauve;
wings large, of the same deep rich mauve. H.
79

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

EARLIEST OF ALL. (Burpee, 1898.) Flowers fully ten days
earlier than Extra Early Blanche Ferry, bearing a profusion
of beautifully tinted flowers. Standard bright, rosy pink;
wings creamy white, suffused pale rose. Planted under
glass in September, the vines begin to bloom in Novem-
ber. E.

EARLIEST OF ALL RE-SELECTED EXTREME EARLY. (Burpee,
1902.) This strain is as much earlier than Earliest of All
as that variety is ahead of Extra Early Blanche Ferry.
The plants come into full flower when only twelve inches
high. Christmas Pink is similar. E.

EARLIEST WHITE. (Burpee, 1906.) This was discovered
in a field of the Re-Selected Burpee's Earliest of All. There
was only one plant and this produced pure white flowers.
A crop planted July i2th came in bloom August 2oth, while
the plants of Mont Blanc planted on the same day showed
no sign of bloom. The plant is unusually sturdy and of
dwarf and even growth. The best white for greenhouse. E.

EASTERN QUEEN.* (Introducer and year of introduction
unknown.) Cream ground, slightly flaked.

ELEGANCE. (Stark, 1909.) White, feathered orange.

ELFRIDA.* (Johnson, 1904.) Primrose, lightly striped rose.
E.

ELIZA ECKFORD.* (Eckford, 1895.) Flesh pink, suffused
rose and white. H.

EMILY ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy mauve changing
to light blue. S. H.

EMILY HENDERSON. (Henderson, 1894.) White. E.

EMILY LYNCH.* (Lynch, 1897.) Standard scarlet rose;
wings primrose tinged pink. H.

EMPRESS OF INDIA.*- (Eckford, 1891.) Standard rose, with
white wings. E.

ETNA.* (Laxton, 1892.) A dark brownish crimson and vio-
let. E.

EVELYN BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Blush white,
slightly tinged pink. S. H.
80

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

EVELYN BYATT. (Wat kins & Simpson, 1906.) Standard
scarlet orange, with rosy wings. E.

EVENING STAR.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose, shaded light
pink. E.

EXQUISITE. (Bath, 1912.) White, veined blue.

FAIRY QUEEN.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1872.) White with
faint carmine pencilings on throat. E.

FASCINATION.* (Eckford, 1900.) Magenta mauve; wings
deep mauve. H.

FASHION.* (Burpee, 1899.) A soft shade of reddish lav-
ender, deepening at base of standard. Similar to Colonist.
H.

FINETTA BATHURST.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Pure
white. E.

FIREFLY.* (Eckford, 1893.) Scarlet crimson. E.

FLORA NORTON. (Vaughan, 1904.) A beautiful rich lav-
ender, almost a bright blue. E.

FLORENCE FRAZER.** (Vaughan, 1904.) Standard bright
crimson rose; wings white tinged pink. E.

FLORENCE MOLYNEAUX.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Cream flaked
with rose. E.

GAIETY.* (Eckford, 1893.) Standard flaked with cerise
pink; wings striped rosy purple, S. H.

GEORGE GORDON.* (Eckford, 1901.) Claret red, self
colored, but turns to a dull purple with age. H.

GLADYS DEAL.** An English name for the American va-
riety, Mrs. Geo. Higginson. S. H.

GLADYS FRENCH.** (Unwin, 1909.) A light blue Helen
Pierce.

GOLDEN GATE.* (Burpee, 1897.) Pinkish mauve and lav-
ender. S. H.

GOLDEN GLEAM.* (Sunset Co., 1897.) Color creamy yellow.
Nearly identical with Mrs. Eckford. S. H.

GOLDEN ROSE. (Burpee, 1902.) The ground color is a
clear primrose yellow, beautifully flushed with rosy pink-
S. H.

81

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

GORGEOUS. (Burpee, 1899.) Standard salmon-orange;

wings heavily suffused orange-salmon. E.
GRACIE GREENWOOD.* (Eckford, 1902.) Cream shaded

with delicate pink. S. H.
GRAND BLUE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Clear, light blue color,

same as Imperial Blue. H.
GRAY FRIAR."* (Burpee, 1896.) Heavily shaded with

watered purple markings on creamy white ground. H.
G. W. KERR. (Baker's, 1909.) Coral pink.
HANNAH DALE.** (Dobbie, 1908.) A large, rich maroon

self. S. H.

v HAROLD. (House, 1910.) Primrose self.
'HELEN PIERCE. (Morse, 1905.) The color is very bright

blue, mottled on pure white. Decidedly the best mottled

variety. E.
HENRY ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1906.) Bright, soft, flaming

orange, deepening slightly in the center of the flower.

This variety requires shading with cheesecloth to prevent

scalding in bright weather. E.
HERBERT SMITH.** (Sydenham, 1908.) A bi-color after

the style of Evelyn Byatt. E.
HER MAJESTY. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy pink. H.
HESTER.** (Hemus, 1907.) Blue striped, and appears to

be the same as Marbled Blue. E.

HETTY GREEN.* (Ward-Bolton, 1907.) Bright orange scar-
let; wings rosy crimson. E.
HILDA JEFFERY.** (Breadmore, 1907.) Color creamy rose.

S. H.
H. J. R. DIGGES.* (Eckford, 1908.) Bright claret shaded

maroon. S. H..
HON. F. BOUVERIE. (Eckford, 1899.) Pinkish salmon

standard; wings shaded to a lighter salmon-buff. S. H.
HON. MRS. E. KENYON. (Eckford, 1901.) A beautiful
*i primrose color. E.
HORACE WRIGHT. (Eckford, 1907.) A self. A rich violet

blue color. S. H.

82

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

Bright scarlet crimson with

Blue and mauve, same

IGNEA.** (Eckford, 1892.)
purple wings. S. H.

IMPERIAL BLUE.* (Eckford, 1886.)
as Grand Blue. H.

IMPERIAL PURPLE.* (Introducer and date of introduction
unknown.) Purple with blue shading. E.

INCONSTANCY.** (Ferry, 1902.) White and primrose flow-
ers on same^plant. E.

INDIGO KING.* (Eckford, 1885.) Dark maroon purple
standard with indigo blue wings. Autocrat is synonymous.
H.

INVINCIBLE BLACK.* (Introducer unknown, 1871.) Dark
claret. E.

INVINCIBLE BLUE.*
(Laxton, 1888.)
Dark blue. E.

INVINCIBLE CAR-
MINE.* (Laxton,
1885.) A brilliant,
glowing carmine.
E.

INVINCIBLE SCAR-
LET.* (S. Brown-
Carter, 1866.)
Crimson scarlet.
E. S.

INVINCIBLE SCARLET
STRIPED WITH
WHITE.* (Intro-
ducer and date of
introduction unknown.) Red, striped with white.

INVINCIBLE STRIPED.* (Carter, 1874.) Crimson striped
white. E.

ISA ECKFORD.* (Eckford, 1886.) White suffused rosy pink. E.

IVY MILLER.** (Miller, 1908.) White edged with blue.
S. H. Similar to Maid of Honor.
83

JANET SCOTT.

Hooded type.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

JAMES GRIEVE.** (Eckford, 1908.) A large sulphur yellow.

E.
JANET SCOTT. (Burpee, 1903.) This might be called a new

shade of rich pink. The unusual size of the wings with the

large, substantial, hooded standard, gives the flower an ap-
pearance of enormous size. H.
JEANNIE GORDON. (Eckford, 1902.) Standard rose, shaded

cream; wings creamy suffused rose. S. H.
JESSIE CUTHBERTSON. (Dobbie, 1903.) Flaked and striped

salmon rose on a cream ground. S. H.
JET. (Aldersey-Sydenham, 1909.) Similar to Midnight.
JOSEPHINE WHITE.** (Ferry, 1902.) White. E.
J. T. CRIER.* (Breadmore, 1907.) A lavender self.
JUANITA.* (Burpee, 1896.) Color pure white, delicately

lined and striped with pale lavender. H.
KATHERINE TRACY.* (Ferry, 1896.) Soft rosy pink,

lighter at edges. E.
KING EDWARD VII. (Eckford, 1903.) A bright crimson

self, large, with three flowers borne on a strong, stout stem.

S. H.
LADY ABERDARE.* (Breadmore, 1904.) Soft light pink,

self colored. H.
LADY BEACONSFIELD.* (Eckford, 1892.) Standard salmon

pink; wings primrose yellow. E.
LADY COOPER.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A clear, lavender

self. S. H.
LADY GRISEL HAMILTON. (Eckford, 1899.) Light lavender

standard with azure blue wings. H.
LADY MARY CURRIE. (Eckford, 1898.) A deep orange

pink. H.
LADY M. ORMSBY-GORE. (Eckford, 1901.) Pale buff tipped

deep buff, overlaid with delicate pink. H.
LADY NINA BALFOUR. (Eckford, 1897.) Delicate mauve

shaded dove gray. H.
LADY PENZANCE.* (Eckford, 1894.) Rose pink, tinged

orange-salmon. H.

84

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

LADY SKELMERSDALE.* (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine

standard, shading to white. S. H.
LEMON QUEEN.* (Eckford, 1892.) White tinted with lemon

and blush. E.
LIGHT BLUE AND PURPLE.* (Introducer unknown, 1700.)

Dark maroon with blue shadings. E.
LITTLE DORRIT.* (Eckford, 1897.) Standard clear rosy

pink; wings white, suffused rose. E.
LORD KEN YON. (Eckford, 1900.) Bright rose pink. H.
LORD NELSON. (House, 1907.) A rich, deep navy blue.

This is identical with Burpee's Brilliant Blue. E.
LORD ROSEBERY. (Eckford, 1902.) A self colored rosy

magenta. H.

LOTTIE ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1894.) White ground, del-
icately edged lavender blue. H.
LOTTIE HUTCHINS.* (Burpee, 1898.) Flaked pink on cream

ground. S. H.

LOVELY. (Eckford, 1895.) Pink; wings delicate rose. H.
LUMINOSA. (Eckford, 191 1.) Coral-colored self.
MADAME CARNOT.* (Laxton, 1892.) A blue self. H.
MADELINE COLE. (Stark, 1910.) Pale lavender.
MAGGIE GERRING. (Eckford, 191 1.) Cream self.
MAID OF HONOR. (Burpee, 1897.) Light blue on a white

ground, shaded and edged. Similar to Lottie Eckford but

a better flower. S. H.
MAJESTIC.* (Burpee, 1901.) Standard is a deep rose pink,

while wings are also deep rose, but rather softer in

tone. H.
MARBLED BLUE.** (Sutton, 1906.) White, striped and

flaked blue. E.
MARCHIONESS OF CHOLMONDELEY. (Eckford, 1904.) Soft

shade of cream overlaid with pink. H.
MARS.* (Eckford, 1895.) Rich crimson self. H.
MAY PERRETT.** (Eckford, 1908.) Ivory flushed with

buff. E.

MEMENTO.** Synonymous with Flora Norton. E.

85

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

METEOR.* (Eckford, 1895.) Orange-salmon standard with

pink wings.' E.
MID BLUE. (Dobbie, 1909.) Of medium size; color deep,

sky-blue. E.

MIDNIGHT ("JET"). (Burpee, 1908.) Standard deep pur-
plish maroon, almost black; wings darkest claret. S. H.
MIKADO.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose crimson striped with

white. H.

MILDRED WARD.** (Sydenham, 1907.) Orange-scarlet. E.
MILLIE MASLIN. (Sydenham, 1908.) Rich rosy crimson

self. Very much deeper than Prince of Wales. S. H.
MIMA JOHNSTON.** (Eckford, 1908.) Bright rose carmine.

E.

Miss BOSTOCK.** (Hemus, 1907.) Cream and pink. H.
Miss H. C. PHILBRICK.** (Stark, 1905.) Mauve overlaid

with clear blue. We consider this identical with Flora

Norton. E.
Miss HUNT.* (Eckford, 1887.) Standard pale carmine

salmon; wings soft pink. E.
Miss WILLMOTT. (Eckford, 1901.) Rich orange pink;

delicately shaded rose. S. H.

MODESTY. (Burpee, 1898.) In strong sunlight it is seem-
ingly a silvery white, but the suffused pink tint is shown on

closer examination. H.
MONARCH.* (Eckford, 1891.) Standard bronzy crimson;

wings, violet. H.
MONT BLANC. (Senary, 1900.) Extremely early flowering;

white self, Florence Denzer is synonymous. E.
MOTHER o' PEARL.** (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) Silvery

lavender. S. H.
MRS. A. MALCOLM.** (Malcolm-King, 1909.) Primrose

self. E.
MRS. BIEBERSTEDT.** (Biebcrstedt, 1908.) A lovely deep

lavender self. S. H.
MRS. CHARLES MASTERS.** (Eckford, 1909.) Standard

rosy salmon; wings cream.

86

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

MRS. COLLIER. (Dobbie, 1907.) In form and substance

it resembles Dorothy Eckford. The flowers are large,

coming in threes and fours on long, stiff stems and of a rich,

primrose tint, entirely free from any trace of pink. S. H.
MRS. DUGDALE. (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine rose,

with faint markings of primrose. S. H.
MRS. ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1891.) A primrose self. S. H.
MRS. E. OILMAN. (Eckford, 1909.) Light rose bicolor.
MRS. FITZGERALD.** (Eckford, 1900.) Buff flushed with

a tinge of pink. Synonymous with Stella Morse. S. H.
MRS. GEORGE HIGGINSON, JR. (Vaughan, 1904.) A very

delicate lavender. E.

MRS. GLADSTONE.* (Eckford, 1890.) Soft flesh pink. E.
MRS. H. KENDALL-BARNES.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Standard

rich apricot; wings creamy buff. S. H.
MRS. Jos. CHAMBERLAIN. (Eckford, 1895.) Ground color is

a clear silvery white, brightly striped soft rosy pink. S. H.
MRS. KNIGHT-SMITH.** (Eckford, 1904.) A pink self,

hooded, with large open wings. Not fixed. H.
MRS. R. F. FELTON.** (Bolton, 1907.) Primrose yellow

self. Synonymous with Mrs. Collier. S. H.
MRS. R. M.SHELTON.** (Baker, 1909.) Rosy carmine. self. H.
MRS. R. MASSEY. (Bide, 1910.) Pinkish lilac, buff ground.
MRS. SANKEY.* (Eckford, 1890.) Pure white: black

seeded. H.
MRS. WALTER WRIGHT. (Eckford, 1903.) The standard is

a beautiful shade of mauve, clear and bright, while the

wings are a bright caerulean blue, slightly shaded with the

mauve color of the standard. H.
NAVY BLUE. (Burpee, 1899.) General color effect dark

blue; standard brilliant royal purple; wings pure violet;

the whole flower elegantly veined in sharp relief. S. H.
NEW COUNTESS. (Burpee, 1897.) Pure light lavender

throughout both on standard and wings. An Improved

Countess of Radnor in which is eliminated the reddish cast

in standard. H.

87

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

NIGGER.* (House, 1905.) Very dark maroon, nearly black.

H.
NOVELTY.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard orange rose; wings

delicate mauve. E.
NYMPHAEA.* (Vaughan, 1904.) White turning to pink.

S. H.
ODDITY.* (Burpee, 1896.) Pale carmine edged with bright

rose. S. H.
ORANGE PRINCE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Bright orange pink.

E.
OREGONIA.* (Walker, 1895.) White striped with brownish

red. S. H.

ORIENTAL.* (Burpee, 1898.) Rich orange flowers. H.
OTHELLO. (Eckford, 1899.) A deep maroon self color;

very large size; standard slightly hooded. S. H.
OVID.* (Eckford, 1894.) Bright rosy pink with crimson

veins in both standard and wings. H.
PAINTED LADY.* (Introducer not known, 1700.) Standard

rose; wings white tinged with pink. E.
PEACH BLOSSOM.* (Eckford, 1894.) Light salmon pink and

buff. E.

PERDITA. (Bath, 1910.) White, marbled pink.
PHENOMENAL. (Henderson, 1905.) White, shaded and

edged lilac. E.
PINK FRIAR.* (Burpee, 1899.) White, lightly marbled

light rose crimson. Large size. H.
PINK SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1903.) Soft shell pink.
PRIMA DONNA. (Eckford, 1896.) A pure pink self. H.
PRIMROSE.* (Eckford, 1889.) Primrose self. E.
PRINCE EDWARD OF YORK. (Eckford, 1897.) Crimson

scarlet standard. Crimson wings; large open form. E.
PRINCE OLAF. (Dobbie, 1908.) The bold, effective flowers

are striped and mottled bright blue on white ground; of

good size with erect standard. E.
PRINCE OF WALES. (Eckford, 1898.) A large, bright rose

self. S. H.

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

PRINCESS BEATRICE.* (Hurst, 1883.) A light pink self.

Syn., Carmine Rose. E.
PRINCESS LOUISE.* (Introducer and date of introduction

unknown, — probably first offered in 1895.) Magenta-pink

standard; lilac wings. E.
PRINCESS MAUD OF WALES.** (Eckford, 1906.) A pale

colored Coccinea. E.
PRINCESS MAY.* (Laxton, 1893.) Pale mauve standard;

lavender wings. E.
PRINCESS OF WALES.* (Eckford, 1885.) White striped

mauve and purple. H.
PRINCESS VICTORIA.** (Eckford, 1891.) Cerise standard;

wings more pink. E.
PURPLE.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.)

A rich shade coming between Boreatton and Black. E.
PURPLE BROWN.* An old dark-striped form.
PURPLE KING.** (Eckford, 1908.) Purple, shaded indigo.

E.

PURPLE PRINCE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Standard dark ma-
roon; wings purple. H.
PURPLE STRIPED.* (Introducer and date of introduction

unknown.) An old variety; purple striped on white

ground. E.
QUEEN ALEXANDRA. (Eckford, 1906.) An. intense bright

scarlet self. E.

QUEEN OF ENGLAND.* (Eckford, 1887.) White self. E.
QUEEN OF PINKS.** (Sutton, 1901.) Pure salmon pink.

S. H.
QUEEN OF SPAIN. (Eckford, 1907.) A new pearly pink

self. S. H.
QUEEN OF THE ISLES. (Eckford, 1885.) Crimson scarlet

striped on a white ground. S. H.

QUEEN VICTORIA. (Eckford, 1897.) A light yellow or prim-
rose self. H.
RAMONA.* (Burpee, 1896.) Light pink, striped on a white

ground. S. H.

89

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

RED RIDING HOOD.* (Sunset Seed and Plant Co., 1897.)

Snapdragon form; crimson.
REGINA.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A large maroon self.

E.
RISING SUN.* (Laxton, 1892.) Standard a bright, rosy

orange; blush wings. E.
ROMOLO PIAZZANI. (Eckford, 1905.) A violet blue self of

large size. S. H.

ROSEATE. (Aldersey, 1912.) Salmon-rose and orange.
ROSE DU BARRI. (Dickson-Burpee, 1911.) Salmon-rose

and coral.

ROSE QUEEN.** (Stark,
1905.) A rosy pink
self. S. H.

ROYAL ROBE.* (Eckford
1894.) A light pink
self. H.

ROYAL ROSE. (Eckford,
1894.) Standard crim-
son pink, deepening at
center; wings pink. S.
H.

SADIE BURPEE W. S.
(Eckford, 1899.) Pure
white flower of large
size. H.

SADIE BURPEE B. S.
(Eckford, 1899.) Pure
white, the flowers show

a delicate pink flush in the standard when first opened.
H.

SAFRANO. (Gilbert, 191 1.) Primrose.
SAINT GEORGE. (Hurst, 1908.) Scarlet orange self; large
and very bright; awarded the Silver Medal of the National
Sweet Pea Society, 1907. A great improvement on Gor-
geous and Evelyn By ait. E.
90

ECKFORD'S "SADIE BURPEE.1
Intensely hooded type.

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

SALMON QUEEN. (Clark, 19 ia) Carmine-scarlet.
SALOPIAN. (Eckford, 1897.) A rich, dark crimson self.

H.
SALVATION LASSIE.* (Burpee, 1902.) Light carmine, the

standard and wings both hooded like a Salvation Army

bonnet.

SAPPHIRE. (Aldersey, 1912.) Indigo-blue.
SCARLET GEM«* (Eckford, 1904.) Bright scarlet. E.
SCARLET STRIPED WITH WHITE.* (Introducer and date of

introduction unknown.) One of the old varieties and dis-
carded some time ago.
SENATOR. (Eckford, 1891.) Creamy white ground, striped

chocolate. H.
SENSATION.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard pink and buff.

Wings white. S. H.
SHAHZADA.* (Eckford, 1897.) Du^ maroon, shaded purple.

S. H.
SHASTA. (Morse, 1905.) When first opening the flowers

have a creamy tint which changes to an ivory white when

fully expanded. E.

SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1900.) White shaded pink; flow-
ers are like a Snapdragon bud.
SPECKLED BEAUTY.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose ground,

marbled with crimson. H.
SPLENDID LILAC.* (Of German origin, first offered in 1869.)

Dull purple magenta standard; wings white, tinged lil^c.

E.
SPLENDOUR.* (Eckford, 1887.) Deep rosy crimson self,

with slightly paler wings. H.
STANLEY. (Eckford, 1890.) Self colored in darkest maroon

of burnished tint. E.
STELLA MORSE. (Burpee, 1898.) Has a faint tinge of

pink underlying the cream, producing a true apricot

shade. H. '
SUE EARL.** (Burpee, 1903.) Standard primrose, with

mauve edges; wings primrose. H.

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

SUNBEAMS, EARLIEST. (Burpee, 1904.) This might be
described as a primrose "Mont Blanc. " The flowers are
of a rich primrose color and generally borne three on a long
stem. E.

SUNPROOF SALOPIAN. (Burpee, 1900.) This was the finest

scarlet until the in-
troduction of King
Edward Vll and
Queen Alexandra. H.
SUNRISE.** (Vaughan,
1904.) A bright pink
on primrose ground.
E.

SUNSET.** (Vaughan,
1904.) Primrose
striped dark rose. H.
SWEET LAVENDER.
(Bath, 1910.) White,
marbled lavender.
SYBIL ECKFORD. (Eck-
ford, 1906.) Stand-
ard creamy buff with
slight pink or apri-
cot, large, open,
' creamy wings. E.
THE BRIDE.* (Lynch,
1897.) White self.
S. H.

THE FAIRY.** (John-
son, 1907.) Laven-
der and white on
same stem.
Rosy pink, reflexing stand-

EARLIEST SUNBEAMS.
Early -flower ing type.

THE QUEEN. (Eckford, 1886.)

ard, shaded with mauve. E.
TRIUMPH. (Eckford, 1897.) Creamy white ground,

fused with salmon pink and tinged with carmine. E.
92

suf-

GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES

TRUE LAVENDER.** (Bath, 1909.) In color same as Mrs.
George Higginson, Jr. Standard notched on sides.

TWEEDY SMITH.* (Breadmore, 1906.) Standard rose pink;
wings rose suffused pink. H.

UNIQUE. (Stark, 1906.) White ground, striped pale lav-
ender blue. S. H.

VENUS. (Eckford, 1891.) Lovely salmon buff, shaded with
rosy pink. fL

VESUVIUS.* (Laxton, 1888.) Claret color, shading lighter
at the edges. E.

VICOMTE DE JANTZE. (Eckford, 1909.) Rose self.

VIOLET QUEEN.* (Carter, 1877.) Clear violet color. E.

WAVERLEY.* (Eckford, 1892.) Rosy claret standard, blue
wings. H.

WAWONA.* (Burpee, 1898.) Striped lavender lilac on a
white ground. H.

WHITE SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1902.) White snapdragon-
like flowers.

WHITE WONDER. (Burpee, 1904.) The flowers are pure
white and of largest size and sometimes borne six to eight
on a long, stout stem, many of the flowers being double. E.

XENOPHON. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) This is a double stand-
ard form of Phenomenal.

YELLOW HAMMER.** (Breadmore, 1909.) Sulphur yellow.

ZARINA.* (Hemus, 1908.) A pearl pink self, being an ex-
panded form of Queen of Spain. E.

ZERO.** (Hemus, 1907.) An early pure white. E.

ZOE.** (Biffen-Unwin, 1906.) A clear, shining blue. Sim-
ilar to Mid Blue. E.

93

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

CUPID SWEET PEAS

This distinct type of dwarf Sweet Peas was intro-
duced by W. ATLEE BURPEE & Co. in 1896 and does
well in dry seasons and on soils which become hard
during hot weather. The plants are of low, spreading
habit, with dense green foliage, and attain a height of
from six to nine inches. The plants root deeply and
flower most freely in hot, dry seasons. They are also
adapted for pot culture, but in growing them the
foliage should never be watered; always water round
or between the plants. A peculiarity about the Cupids
is that they are quite devoid of fragrance.

At one time there was listed fully twenty varieties,
but now only the following are offered by us:

PINK CUPID

WHITE CUPID

MIXED CUPID

BURPEE'S BUSH SWEET PEAS
The plants are semi-erect, fifteen to eighteen inches
high when in full flower, but branching freely so that
the close bushes are frequently fifteen inches and more
in diameter, composed of short erect branches with
abundant light-green foliage. The tendrils at ends of
the leaves clasp themselves closely to the adjoining
branches, so that the whole plant is held quite erect
though sufficiently open to admit of a freer circulation
of air than in the low compact form of the Cupid type.
As these have not met with the success anticipated,
they have been discarded. We understand in some
parts of England florists are growing these for cutting
with larger part of foliage.

94

The late HENRY ECKFORD, V. M. H.,
Who died at Wem, England, December 5, 1905, aged 82 years.

While other men, including his son, are doing good work on the
sweet pea, it was he alone who blazed the way for others to follow.
Born in Scotland at Stonehouse, near Edinburgh, on May 17, 1823,
he began as an apprentice in 1839 in the Gardens of Lord Lovat,
Beaufort Castle, Inverness, In 1854 he was appointed head gardener
to the Earl of Radnor at Coleshill, Berkshire, where during his stay
of twenty years he raised many new dahlias, pelargoniums and
verbenas. In the year 1870 he accepted the invitation of Dr. Sankey
to take charge of his gardens at Sandywell, Gloucester, with the view
of raising new seedlings of florists' flowers. At this time no one had
thought of any radical improvement in sweet peas and Mr. Eckford's
magnificent work was begun in 1879.

As long as the sweet pea is cultivated the name of HENRY ECKFORD
will be cherished and revered. To few men is it possible to do so
much for their day and generation.

95

TRELLISES

For those who prefer a trellis, we give illustrations
of four of the most practical, such as have given entire
satisfaction at FORDHOOK FARMS.

Make supports of com-
mon furring strips, also top
rail. Set supports eight feet
apart. For horizontal wires use No. 16
galvanized. Avoid knotty lumber. Run
wires from every dot, twenty-six in all.
Height above ground six feet, and
twelve inches wide.

96

TRELLISES

Set the supports eight
feet apart. For horizontal
wires use about No. 16 gal-
vanized. Have the lower
wires come just outside the
double row of vines. Make
supports and top rail of
pine or spruce one and a
quarter by two and a quarter inches. Height above
ground six feet, and twelve inches wide at base.

97

SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE

^

This trellis is made of
part twine. 1 1 has three-
inch-square posts, and an upper and
lower frame of furring strips. At each
end are two perpendicular wires of No.
10 galvanized, and running lengthwise
are two horizontal wires of the same.
The diamond work can be made of
strong twine, and should be fastened
both at the middle wire and top and bottom strips.
Have the rows of vines come inside. Set posts eight
feet apart. One foot is enough for width.

98

TRELLISES

Made of coarse meshed
poultry wire. It can
sometimes be bought
with seven inch mesh.
Posts three-inch-square stuff, and top
and bottom rails as per cut. Set posts
ten feet apart. Height six feet. It is
well to run three horizontal wires on
each side about six inches out to hold
the mass of vines where they fail to
fasten securely.

99

FOUR "DONTS."

T-X >* expect Sweet Peas to thrive in soil too poor
for any other culture, or in a sunless location.
They need, as nearly as possible, a free deep loam, mod-
erately rich and freely cultivated.

sow too shallow. Plant the seed not less
than two inches deep, and when the plants

are two or three inches high draw the soil up to them

in ridge form.

overfeed. With a view to obtaining vigor-
ous growth and profusion of bloom, bone, in
Some form, is the best fertilizer. Nitrate of soda will do
for a "hurry-up" stimulant, should such be needed;
but use it sparingly.

Dnn't 8atner tne blooms grudgingly. The more
you cut the longer the vine will continue to
flower. Remember, when they go to seed Sweet Peas
will cease flowering.

100

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

OCT 10

LD 21~100m-7,'33

385919

c
0

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

I

Burpee's New Annual

"The Leading American Seed Catalog"

A bright book, published January 1st of each
year, is mailed FREE to all who write for it. J^» If
you have not received it for the current year, or need
a copy for a friend, please apply either by letter or on
a postal card. It tells the plain truth about Seeds,
including rare Novelties which cannot be had else-
where. Beautiful colored plates and illustrations from
nature. Gives information of real value to all who
would raise the choicest Vegetables and most beauti-
ful Flowers.

Our Aim

is to supply not only the " Best Seeds that Grow/'
but to help you in an intelligent selection of varieties
and also in their successful culture.

will pay to read the Cultural Leaflets
offered in BURPEE'S ANNUAL.

Burpee's "Blue List"

Our Wholesale Price-List of Seeds in Larger

Quantities is mailed free on application

to Market Gardeners and Florists

HVrkii TMdtii- fnr Prrkfii- Y°u should write at once for
' mt this Wholesale List, BUT
we cannot send it to private planters, even if requested to do so.

A Useful New Feature KS&a^*i^t

to growers who plant for profit is the " plain talks " we give in
every department, as to just the best varieties for different
purposes.

Sh41Twe mail you ONE or BOTH Catalogs?

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.

Seed Growers Philadelphia, Penna.