ag : SB 413 .S9 K4 ; 1914 =r" SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE Revised Edition A Flower, Natural Size, of “WEDGWOOD”’ from Photograph taken at FORDHOOK FARMS. PUBLISHED IN 1914 BY W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. SEED GROWERS PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA *A[Nf Jo ounf Burnp aas 07 Setu Jo sporpuny Burpaesy YOM YSIS B——‘s¥a] J29MG Ja0uedG U! sas pspuny auo uDY} asou BAvY aM Aal]e A DoduIO] jnyyNeaq siyy uy “VINNOAITVS ‘OOdWOT ‘WavV4a ATVAVYOTS S.aaduN SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE By G. W. KERR FROM OBSERVATIONS MADE AT FORDHOOK FARMS TRIAL GROUNDS DURING THE PAST Six SEASONS AND PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE IN ENGLAND COUNTESS SPENCER SWEET PEA. Grown by JAMES W. NairRN, Truro, Nova Scotia, who sends the charming photograph from which this engraving has been veproduced, SWEET PEAS UP-TO-DATE Wath A COMPLE TE. DESCRIPTION OF SALE KNOWN VARIETIES, IN- BEUDING “NOVELTIES FOR. 1914 Bye Ga WERK PUBLISHED IN IQI4 BY Wate ERE BURPEE & Co. SEED GROWERS, PHILADELPHIA CopyRIGHT, I910 AND 1914, BY W. ATLEE BuRPEE & Co., PHILADELPHIA, PA. All rights reserved JAN 27 1914 Oc1.A3s62388 - — PREPACE WE were well pleased with the reception accorded our revised edition of Sweet Peas Up-To-Date when pub- lished in 1910, but since the list of varieties contained therein was compiled so great has been the interest of hybridizers and specialists in this beautiful flower, that new varieties have been offered the public in bewilder- ing numbers, with the result that to keep our book really “up-to-date” we feel that it is necessary to pub- lish this new edition. Sweet Peas are a great specialty with us, neither time nor money being spared in our endeavors to test and try out all novelties as they are offered by European and other Sweet Pea specialists. Our Sweet Pea trials at Fordhook Farms in 1913 numbered 1133, many of these being duplicated on Burpee’s Floradale Farm in California. We are thus enabled to find out for our- selves just which varieties are worthy of perpetuating and offering to our customers and friends. We have—at Fordhook—for the past five years been hybridizing the original winter-flowering varieties, viz.: Burpee’s Earliest of All (Christmas Pink), Burpee’s Earliest Sunbeams, Burpee’s Earliest White and Bur- pee’s Re-selected Earliest of All, with the finest varieties of Spencers, with a view to evolving a new race of early or winter-flowering Spencers, and we are now able to say that we have accomplished this even beyond our most sanguine expectations, as we have now winter- flowering Spencers in many exquisite colors, though it may be a year or so ere we have sufficient stocks of these to offer to the public. W. ATLEE BurPEE & Co. Fordhook Farms, December 10, 1913. 5 - INTRODUCTION “THE Sweet Pea has a keel that was meant to seek all shores; it has wings that were meant to fly across all continents; it has a standard which is friendly to all nations; and it has a fragrance like the universal Gos- pel: yea, a sweet prophecy of welcome everywhere that has been abundantly fulfilled.” So said the Rev. W. T. Hutcurns, the well-known Sweet Pea enthusiast, when attending the Sweet Pea Bi-centenary Celebration in London in 1900; and his words sound almost like a prophecy—a prophecy that has indeed been abundantly fulfilled. As far as we can learn the Sweet Pea is a native of Sicily, and we read that in 1699 FRANCISCUS CUPANI, an Italian monk, sent seeds to England, and so was begun the culture of Sweet Peas. Although there were several distinct colors in cul- tivation, no great advancement was made until the late HENRY EckKForp, of Wem, Shropshire, England, in 1870 started his great life work on Sweet Peas. Since then the development of this lovely and fragrant flower has been one of the floral wonders of the age. The late THomaAs Laxton, of Bedford, England, also worked on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, starting in 1877. His Invincible Carmine was certificated in 1883, being the first recorded result of cross-fertilization, and since then many florists have assisted in carrying on the improvement of the Sweet Pea, America being to the front as usual, many charming and refined va- rieties being distributed by W. ATLEE BuRPEE & Co. and other American seedsmen, and quite three-fourths 6 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE of the Sweet Pea seed used each year all over the world is grown in this country. Had any one ten years ago said that the Sweet Pea would become within the next few years the most popular flower of the day, he would have been laughed at, and yet this has now become an accomplished fact. I can well remember when the first “Sweet Pea Show” in England was planned (that was in 1900). Although I was a great admirer of the Sweet Pea and had seen and grown all the new varieties as they were introduced, | simply laughed at the idea of holding a show of Sweet Peas alone— and | was only a unit among the many scoffers at the project. But, thanks to those at the helm, the first show at the Crystal Palace, London, was held, and turned out to be such a success that since that year the Sweet Pea Society has held its annual Show, and now the National Sweet Pea Society is among the most flourishing of the “one flower” societies; and it is impossible to describe to those who have not at- tended any of their exhibitions the enthusiasm which prevails among the exhibitors, the immensity of the Show and the exquisite exhibits from the trade growers: flowers of the largest size with stems eighteen inches to two feet long, the long lines of decorated tables, and, last but not least, the novelties. Of course, the novel- ties are not all gems of the first water, but no Show passes without some great improvement in color or form appearing. The Aquarium Show of 1oo1 will long be remembered, as it was there that Silas Cole, of Althorp Gardens, Northampton, first exhibited his glorious “Countess Spencer,’ which was three years later introduced by the late Mr. Ropert SYDENHAM, of Birmingham. The “Countess Spencer’ was such 7 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE an improvement in size and of a form so distinctly new, the immense standard and wings being beautifully frilled and waved, that it created a perfect sensation at the Show, but since the advent of its introduction in 1904 the new waved or orchid-flowered varieties have been added to considerably, these being either sports from the popular Countess Spencer, or the results of the careful hybridist. The first “Spencer” sports to appear were John Ingman and Helen Lewis, followed by Mrs. Charles Foster and Mrs. Charles Mander. Since then many new colors have been evolved, a list of which is given on pages 38 to 60. About the time that Mr. Cole brought out Countess Spencer the same variety was found as a sport in that fine old grandiflora variety, Prima Donna, by Mr. Viner, of Frome, Somerset, and W. J]. UNwin, of Histon, Cam- bridge, also found a sport in Prima Donna, and this he called Gladys Unwin. It is also of the wavy type and of much the same shade of pink as Countess Spencer, but the flowers do not come quite so large. The merest novice in gardening realizes that the Sweet Pea is the most popular annual now cultivated, and this is not to be wondered at when we consider all its qualities: first, there is the primary question of cost, when for a few cents we can have a row right around our garden or clumps among our shrubs—and what other flower will give us such glorious results so cheaply? Then, as to cultivation. The Sweet Pea will succeed in practically any good garden soil, though extra cultivation will well repay the grower. And, again, what flower gives us such a multitude of ex- guisite colors and shades of colors combined with such 8 SS SS ee ee oo ee . SWeEEd PEAS. UP TO DATE delicate and thrilling fragrance as our “Queen of All Annuals’’—the regal Sweet Pea? And yet another sreat quality in its favor is that the more flowers you cut from the vines, the longer and more continuously will the plants continue to bloom. In fact, by not allow- ing any seed pods to set, followed up with high-class cultivation, Sweet Peas will continue to flower for quite three months, and in some locations even longer. To those who are unacquainted with the different varieties | would specially recommend the collections put up by W. ATLEE BurPEE & Co., and offered at very moderate prices. For instance you can have a large packet each of six first-class sorts for 25 cents,—thirteen varieties for 50 cents. While the dollar-box collection of finest Spencer varieties is great value. Full partic- ulars of the above will be found in the current year’s “Burpee’s Annual,” copy of which will gladly be sent on application. G. W. KERR. Fordhook Farms, November 22, 1913. SOTL AND: PREPARATION Any ordinary garden soil will suit Sweet Peas, pro- vided the following points are observed: First. The ground should be drained or the soil be of such a nature that in a season of excessive rains the water will not lie and so cause the roots to rot, or start mildew among the plants. SECOND. The seeds should be planted in such a position that no excessive shade shall interfere with the sturdy growth of the vines, as too much shade encourages a spindly and weak vine, with few, if any, flowers. You should choose, therefore, a spot in your garden right in the open, where your plants may have all the available light and air, though a little shade from the scorching mid-day suns of June and July will be found most beneficial. Soils cultivated and prepared as for your vegetable plot will give fair results, but for this, the Queen of all our annual plants, a little extra care and selection of soil will be well repaid by the additional size of flower, longer stems, better color, and prolonged period of blooming. Whatever may be the composition of your soil, a start should be made in the fall of the year by trench- ing it to a depth of from two to three feet. Should the subsoil be poor, it would be absurd to bring it to the surface, but it should be broken up, turned over, and mixed with any old garden refuse or stable litter. Thoroughly mix with the second spit a liberal quantity of half decayed stable or cow manure—the latter for 10 | | SOIL AND PREPARATION preference if the soil is light—adding a good dressing of bone meal as the work proceeds. [The top spit should be filled in as rough as possible (at the same time mix- ing with the soil thoroughly rotted manure) and left so all winter, that the frost, snow, and rain may have a better chance of exerting their mellowing influences upon the soil. Should the under spits be very light, | would recommend that it should be taken out of the trench and replaced with soil of heavier substance. If the land is very heavy, with a clay subsoil, long stable litter and rough material from the garden rub- bish heap should be incorporated with the subsoil which is broken up, as this will help materially to drain and sweeten the trench, and farm-yard manure, road sweep- ings, and wood ashes will help to lighten the top spits, adding bone meal as recommended above. While on the subject of trenching, we ought to ex- plain that where the Sweet Peas are to be planted in rows the trench should be taken out at least two feet wide and the rows should be five feet apart. As soon as the frost is out of the ground in early spring and the soil is in a nice, dry condition, the rows should have a fairly heavy coating of superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate), which can be forked or raked into the soil and all made ready for planting. Care should be taken that the soil is not too loose, as in this condition it would be apt to dry up quickly during the summer; therefore, if it is loose and open, get it con- solidated by forking and treading, but do not attempt to work the trench until it is quite dry. Soils deficient in lime will be greatly benefited by a good dusting of fresh lime put on in the fall or winter, using it as soon as slaked. On ground that has been Dt SWEET *PEAS> UP-TO-DATE heavily manured for some years this application will be found most beneficial, as it combines with the organic matter contained therein, thereby setting free much plant food that was not previously available to the crops. Where it has been found impossible to trench the ground in the fall, this operation should be commenced as early as possible in the spring, but in this case only old, well-decomposed manure should be utilized, using bone meal and superphosphate of lime (acid phosphate) as recommended above. SOWING AND PLANTING To those who want the very best results we say plant your Sweet Pea seeds in pots. This should be done in January or February, according to location, using pots of three and one-half or four inches diameter. A suitable compost for this consists of turfy loam, leaf soil, and a little sand, all thoroughly mixed. A little of the roughest of the turf should be placed on top of the crocks to insure perfect drainage, afterwards filling the pot to within an inch and a half of the top. Then put in an inch layer of sharp sand into which the seed should be sunk half an inch when planting, the use of the sand being to prevent the seed rotting ere germ- inating, as many seed so often do when planted in heav- ier soil. Four seeds will be quite sufficient for each pot, making all firm and labeling each variety as it is sown. The pots should be then placed in a frame or cool greenhouse as near the light as possible, so that the growth will be kept sturdy and dwarf. The frame or greenhouse bench on which the pots are to stand should 12 SOWING AND PLANTING be thoroughly cleaned and afterwards given a thorough dusting of soot or lime to kill all insects, or keep them at bay. When the young vines are two or three inches tall, insert a few twigs in the pots to keep them in an up- right position. After the first thorough soaking to settle soil and seeds, great care should be taken not to overdo the subsequent waterings, as in the event of sharp frosts, should the Peas be in an unheated structure, there is always the danger of the young plants getting frosted. In severe weather the careful grower will always see that the frame is covered and protected from night frosts. When the young plants are well through the soil, air should be given on all favorable occasions, and if the plants have been started in heat they should be now removed to a coid frame. As spring advances the sashes should be entirely removed during the brightest part of the day, keeping them off night and day as “planting out time” approaches. According to locality and weather conditions prevailing at the time, the young plants should be put out from early March to early May. One pot will be found sufficient to form a good clump, and some growers favor this method of growing Sweet Peas—the ground for the clump having been prepared by taking out the soil to a depth of about three feet by three feet and preparing it as before ex- plained for the row system. When planting in rows each potful should be planted about eighteen inches apart in the row. Place the entire ball of soil with plants and twigs—taking care to keep all intact with the exception of loosening the 13 SWEET «PEAS UP» TOQDATE mass of roots at the base—in the hole previously pre- pared for its reception. If the plants are well watered the day before planting, the ball of soil will be more likely to remain entire when knocked out of the pot. Should the weather be very dry at the time of planting, it may be found advisable to give the newly trans- planted vines a thorough watering, and this will like- wise help to settle the soil about the roots. A good ring of soot (which should be collected dur- ing the season from the stove-pipe) put on the soil round the plants will now be of the greatest possible benefit in warding off insects, and even a slight dusting of the same material over the young vines has been used also to advantage. SOWING OUT OF DOORS Those who have not the conveniences—or, perchance, think it too much trouble—for the pot method of Sweet Pea culture should plant the seeds as early in the spring as soil and weather conditions will allow. Whether the ground has been prepared as advised in a previous chapter or simply dug over one spit deep, the procedure is the same. A small trench or furrow about four inches deep should be taken out and the seed sown evenly, using about one ounce of seed to a fifteen-foot row,—covering with two inches of soil. After covering make the sur- face soil fairly firm and finish all by putting a good dusting of soot along the row, as this will keep away birds and insects. When the seedlings are about two inches high, thin out the young plants, leaving one to every six inches, as this will be found quite sufficient to give you a good, 14 SOWING OUT OF DOORS thrity row, allowing the air and light to circulate freely among the growing vines, giving more room to the gross feeding and deep searching roots, the natural results being larger flowers, longer stems, better color, and more flowers. As the young vines grow, the soil should be hoed up to them on either side, thus strength- ening the plants and keeping them in an upright posi- tion, while the slight trench thus made on either side of the row is of great benefit when watering the plants dur- ing a dry spell, or, on the other hand, it acts as a natural drain in carrying off the superfluous moisture during a very wet period. The rows should be staked now, as it is of great importance that the young vines be sup- ported from their earliest stage, but this will be dealt with in a subsequent paragraph. EALESPLANTING While we are on the subject of sowing, it would be in- complete were we not to mention Fall planting. For early bloom Fall or Autumn planting is to be recom- mended if your latitude will allow of it. This method is largely carried out in many parts of England with best results. In the Southern States this operation may be done towards the end of October, while for this locality (Philadelphia) we have proved that No- vember and early December plantings give the most satisfactory results. Our experiments at FORDHOOK Farms have shown that Sweet Peas sown in early October made growth about three inches tall before severe weather set in, and that subsequently the plants were frozen out, while seed sown in November and early December just started to germinate before frost, and as there were no top growths to freeze, withstood the 15 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE winter and started away strongly with the first mild weather in March, the earlier varieties showing flower on May 15th, while the ordinary varieties of grandiflora and Spencer types were in full bloom early in June. These experiments in Fall planting seem to show us that we ought to aim at sowing the seed at as late a date as possible, that the seed may just germinate previous to frost, thereafter lying dormant all winter and so be ready to take advantage of the earliest mild days of spring, long before we could get on the ground to make early plantings. Give the rows a mulch of strawy litter or hay before severe frost sets in, or it may be put on shortly after planting, removing it early in March. The advantages of Fall plantings are early flowering and, on account of slower top growth in the early stages, a much stronger root growth which will carry the plants safely through periods of drought and so secure an ex- tended flowering season. STAKING AND TRELLISING A great diversity of opinion prevails over the ques- tion of the most suitable material for staking Sweet Pea vines. According to the NATIONAL SWEET PEA ANNUAL FOR 1907, the opinions of fifty-two experts were asked, forty-seven of the number voting for sticks, most of them regarding hazel brush as being the best. My own opinion on the matter is strongly in favor of good twiggy boughs cut in the late winter or early spring, that they may be on the green side and so tough enough to last the season. If boughs are used, they ought to be inserted at least one foot in the soil with the tops inclining, if anything, a little outwards: 7. e., the 10 STAKING AND TRELLISING tops of the boughs should not meet, as it is at this part that so much space is wanted when the Peas are in full growth, therefore by inclining your sticks outwards it leaves room for all top growth and tends to keep your vines in an upright position. Should your sticks not be twiggy at the bottom, it will be found desirable to insert a few short boughs between the taller sticks wherever necessary. Now although we might all wish to stake our Sweet Peas with boughs, in the majority of cases this is an impossibility through our inability to procure them: therefore, the question of the next best substitute arises, and this is to be found in wire netting of four- or six-inch mesh. The initial cost of this material is certainly a drawback where a large area of Sweet Peas is grown, but it will be found the cheapest in the long run, lasting as it does for many years. Netting four to six feet wide will be found sufficient for this locality, but in cooler sections where the Sweet Pea vines flourish as they do in our extreme Northern States, Canada, . and England, this width may have to be doubled. Stakes to support the wire netting will have to be used, driving these twelve or eighteen inches into the ground. Some growers use only one row of wire netting, but we believe in the double row, say twelve inches apart. Another method is the use of soft, light jute twine. In this case stout stakes are used, driving one into the eround every five feet down the rows on either side of the Peas, then running the twine from stake to stake, commencing a few inches from the ground with six inches between each length. This will be found a most economical method of staking your Peas, though not so satisfactory as boughs or wire netting. 17 SWEET >: PEAS UP tO. DATE The Rev. W. T. Hutchins’ advice on staking, as given in one of our former publications, is also of in- terest on this important point in Sweet Pea culture, and we append the following extracts: “There are all degrees of success in growing Sweet Peas, and the answer to the question of what kind of support to give them depends largely on how thrifty your vines are. [| expect my own vines to make a strong growth, at least six feet high, and, besides the matter of height, it is quite evident that such a weight of vines when wet, and when the strain of a gust of wind comes broadside on them, will require a very strong support. If you care for only moderate success, smaller bushes or four-foot poultry wire may be suf- ficient. If your soil has neither depth nor riches and you provide a six-foot hedge of birch, your bushes will be more conspicuous than your Sweet Peas. Or, if you neglect your vines and let them go to seed, they will dry up when two-thirds grown. Or, if you plant them too thickly, they will make a spindling and shorter growth. You are the one to decide whether you want a four-foot or a six-foot support. “Then, if you ask what to make the support of, judging from most people, you will use that which comes most convenient. “Here are the points to be considered in a support for Sweet Peas. Grow them at their best, and provide for both height and strength, then allow for their loose branching habit, and give them width enough to ramble. | use birches entirely. They are brought to me in twelve or fourteen foot lengths, just as cut from the patch, and from each | get one good stout one seven feet high, and the lighter top is used to fill in. 18 CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING “They are less unsightly if the tops are clipped to an even six-foot level and the sides are trimmed suf- ficiently to present a neat view from the end. These twiggy birches are a more natural support, and in the scorching sun do not heat as wire will. Of course, birches last but one year, and should be procured early in the spring, before their leaves start. Make ashes of them in the fall. “There is no limit to the style of trellis that can be made, and they should be so made as to take apart easily for storing away in the winter. By painting the ground end of the posts or uprights with asphaltum they will last longer. The printed designs are mere suggestions of what can be made cheaply (see page 85). “Keep your vines green and growing as long as you can. Good rich ground and keeping the pods off will do this, and when the vines get above six feet clip off the tops and they will send up new branches.” CULTIVATING, MANURING AND WATERING The liberal use of the hoe between the rows and plants will be found of great service in conserving moisture and, of course, at the same time keeping down the weeds. Should the weather set in very dry and hot, a liberal mulching of manure or grass should be given, extending quite twelve inches on either side of the plants, and a thorough watering two or three times a week will keep your seedlings on the move. No liquid manure should be applied, however, until the first blos- soms appear, and then only sparingly—or rather in a weak state—at first, alternating the waterings with clear water. As the plants come into full flower the manure may be made much stronger. 19 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE Now, as to the kind of manure to apply. We know that growers of experience have their own pet manures and mixtures, but the following may all be relied upon. One of the least expensive, and one which at the same time almost serves a double purpose by both feeding the plant and acting as an insecticide, is soot. Place about a peck of soot in a bag and let it dissolve for a few hours in an old tub or barrel filled with water. Guano may be used in the proportion of one pound to twenty gallons of water; or sulphate of potash, one ounce to one gallon of water. Farmyard liquid manure, used about the color of weak tea, is also of service, and nitrate of soda might be used occasionally at the rate of, say, 14 ounce to a gallon of water. When using liquid manure, it is well to.let it follow a thorough soaking with clear water, that the fertilizing material may penetrate to the lowest roots, and if possible all watering should be done after the sun has gone down, as this will to a great extent save the cracking of the soil and allow the plants to get the full benefit of the moisture. Spraying the vines overhead in the cool of the evening will be found to benefit the plants during a hot, dry spell. BUDS DROPPING Where the plants have been well cultivated and heav- ily manured and the vines consequently are growing vigorously, it sometimes happens that a large propor- tion of the first buds drop from the flower stem before opening, and it often follows a period of wet and cool weather. But the grower need not be alarmed at this, as the vines will soon assume their natural mode of 20 WINTER BLOOMING SWEET PEAS procedure, all buds subsequently opening and remain- ing on the stem as they should do. Bud dropping is most frequently met with in a wet season. WENTER -BLOOMING SWEET PEAS Sweet Peas are now being grown in yearly increasing quantities under glass to produce the ever-welcome, fragrant flowers during the dull days of winter and spring. To succeed in this, a heated greenhouse is indispen- sable, and the seeds may be sown on raised benches, in pots, or the solid bed or border. The date of sowing will depend on when the Sweet Peas are wanted to bloom. The forcing of winter-flowering varieties takes from two and one-half to three months from the date of planting until blooming, if started about the middle of August. Later sowings take rather longer; therefore, if required for spring cutting, seed should be planted early in November. The seed may be planted in the row, or started in small pots or flats (many growers prefer flats). Best results are obtained when grown in solid beds, though we have seen magnificent Peas cut from plants on raised benches. They come into flower earlier when grown on raised benches, but the quality of bloom is not so fine, nor is the flowering season so prolonged as when grown in solid beds. It pays to prepare a special compost for Sweet Peas, which should be com- posed of three parts good fibrous loam, not too heavy, and one part well-rotted manure (cow or sheep manure for preference), to which add a good dressing of bone meal. ik SWEET “PEAS UP TO; DATE The rows should, where possible, be five feet apart, certainly not less than four feet, and they must have head room of not less than six feet—ten to twelve feet being better. Take out the soil to the depth of 18 inches and 12 inches wide. Stir up the sub-soil and fill up with prepared compost; or, if the existing soil is fairly good, manure and bone meal might be added to it instead of the prepared compost, but the additional size of flower and length of stem obtained by the thorough preparation of the soil more than repay the initial cost of material and extra work entailed. One ounce of seed will sow about 30 feet of row, planted very thinly. When the seedlings are from three to four inches high, thin out to four inches apart. Water carefully and sparingly until the plants are well up and growing strongly. During the early stages of growth the temperature must be kept fairly low— say 42 to 48 degrees at night, with a rise of 10 degrees during the day. Spray the plants occasionally when the weather is clear and bright, but do so early in the day that the foliage may be dry by night. A humid atmosphere must be avoided, also cold drafts, as this will start mildew. Fumigate every seven or ten days to keep the vines free from green fly, as their ravages very soon cripple the plants. The plants must be given supports immediately they are from three to four inches high, as a lack of something to cling to at this stage acts as a decided check to their growth. The soil should always be kept loose around the plants. As the flower buds begin to swell a gradual rise of 22 WINTER BLOOMING SWEET PEAS temperature may be given, and when the plants are in full flower it should average from 48 to 52 degrees at night, rising to 60 or 65 during the day. At this stage it will add to the size of flowers and length of flower stems if a top dressing of well-rotted cow or sheep manure be given (which might later be supplemented with applications of liquid manures once a week). Apply it after stirring the soil, and the subsequent waterings will carry the strength of it down to the roots. See that ventilation is given whenever possible, as a close, humid atmosphere encourages bud dropping. The absence of lime from the soil is also conducive to bud dropping, therefore the soil should be tested previous to planting. To do so pour a little Spirits of Salt upon the soil, when if lime is present in sufficient quantity it will cause a fizzing to follow; if it does not do so the soil is deficient of this necessary earth constituent and a dressing of air-slaked lime should be applied while trenching the ground. Among the most suitable varieties for winter forcing I can recommend the undernoted, but these will be entirely superseded when the new winter flowering Spencers are put on the market. BURPEE’S EARLIEST SUNBEAMS. Primrose. BURPEE’S EARLIEST WHITE. (Similar to Watchung.) BURPEE’S RE-SELECTED EARLIEST OF ALL. (Similar to Christmas pink.) Pink and white. CHRISTMAS STELLA Morse. Pinkish-apricot. Le Marguis. (Christmas Navy Blue.) Mont Bianc. White. (Similar to Florence Denzer.) Mrs. ALEx. WALLACE. Rosy lavender. Mrs. C. H. Totty. Pure lavender. Mrs. E. Witpe. Bright rose. 23 SWEET PEAS WP. TO DATE Mrs. F. J. Dotansky. Bright pink. Mrs. Wm. Sim. Salmon-pink. To follow the winter-flowering type we recommend planting the Spencers or grandifloras toward the end of December, and these should begin flowering in April and continue until the fall and spring planted outdoor crops begin to bloom, though better results may be had by planting them in October in a cold house or frame that the plants may be allowed to come along slowly. If started in a frame remove to the greenhouse previous to hard frosts. SEED AND SLOW GERMINATION The majority of the blue and lavender colored Sweet Peas produce small, poor looking seeds of a mottled appearance, which by the novice may be regarded as of inferior quality, yet it 1s simply the nature of these varieties to produce such seed, and they are of as good germinative power as the large, round, plump seed which we find in the other colors. Some seasons Sweet Peas are slow in germinating or fail to do so altogether. Now, before condemning the seedsman, it is well to find out where the fault lies, and if the grower will take the trouble to carefully examine the seed, nine times out of ten he will find that although they are still perfectly dormant they are quite plump and fresh, and if the outer coating is cut with a sharp knife, taking care not to harm the embryo plant, he will find that in a few days they will germinate freely and well. The reason assigned for this state of affairs is that the seeds have been so well ripened— say after a very hot, dry summer—that the coating 24 INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT has become so hard as to be quite impervious to mois- ture. In the case of new and expensive varieties, many srowers have now adopted the method of cutting all the seed ere planting. See illustration. White seeded varieties are also a cause of much annoyance at times, as they are apt to rot in the ground should the weather be wet and cold after planting. We, therefore, advise sowing these rather thicker than the dark seeded sorts, and not so deeply; or, to hurry germination, and so avoid the risk of them rotting in the soil, the seed should be soaked in warm water for twelve hours previous to planting, or, if starting them in pots, use an inch layer of sand, as advised on page !2, this being the method I always use when planting scarce and new varieties, and with most satisfactory results. INSECT PESTS AND BLIGHT Tue Cut Worm.—This pest is in some seasons most destructive to the vines in early stages of growth, and various methods of combating its ravages have from time to time been advocated, such as hand-picking, sowing lettuce beside the rows of Peas, etc. However, a dusting of tobacco powder or soot will be found as 25 SWEET ‘PEAS -UPs fOr DATE effectual a deterrent to the mischief caused by these worms as anything you can try. RED SPIDER AND GREEN APHIS OR “ PEA LousE.’’— These small insects are apt to attack the vines during hot and dry periods, and war must be waged against them as soon as they appear or they will multiply so quickly as to soon destroy all growth. We recommend spraying with whale-oil soap or a weak solution of kerosene emulsion, applying it every third day until the vines are quite free of them. Vines that are kept growing steadily and that receive a spraying of clear water occasionally in the evening are less liable to be attacked by these pests. The Sweet PEA BLIGHT, as the writer has seen it, appears to be caused by drought combined with shallow cultivation, for had the roots been able to penetrate the hard subsoil and reached rich soil, the plants would naturally have kept healthy and strong, instead of drying up, flagging, and becoming yellow, in many cases ere they had even bloomed. STREAK DiIsEASE (Thilavia bassicola), although so prevalent some seasons in England, rarely, if ever, is to be met with in this section, and I have not heard of it being seen in California. Scientists who have studied “streak’’ seem to have arrived at the conclusion that errors in manuring were at the root of the evil. We are told that all nitrogenous manures should be withheld from the Sweet Pea, for as it belongs to the leguminosz family of plants, all of which are capable of assimilating the free nitrogen of the atmosphere, it is unnatural to feed it nitrates, as by so doing the nitrogen-gathering bacteria in the root nodules die of 20 tHe BEST SWEET PEAS inanition and the plant is, therefore, susceptible to disease. [Therefore where disease has prevailed it is well to avoid the too free use of farmyard manure. If the soil must have humus, apply the dung to the previous crop, or use it only in a thoroughly rotted condition, as in that state most of the nitrogen will previously have been liberated. rib be Sh S WEE) PEAS So much depends on the personal taste or fancy of the expert that it would be absurd to say arbitrarily that any set of varieties were the very best. However, to assist those who have not had an opportunity of making comparisons, the following selections can be de- pended upon whether they are intended for exhibition purposes or for garden and home decoration. My first choice is those marked with an asterisk. Pamty spencer... 2... .2. .: White edged fose Becorator. fy tee Sai, Rose terra-cotta Baeniavlon) ss Ratiie, Ti. Rosy cerise Ge linda Pearson ::. 22)... i... Blush pink *Florence Nightingale....... Lavender Georce Herbert 2214. 04-5. Rosy carmine Bie beul ess |My she ctht 2: beeps te. oo Deep pink am IAMIVAT OF. cag. 2 Sages Cerise-pink and salmon Kane Edward Spencer. ....... Bright crimson ALS SERIE TON tf Pure white eviarearet Atlee... 22... Rosy pink on cream Marsaret Madison... . 0... - Clear azure blue jb WS) S38 Ce aA lle Soma Salmon Mrs. C. W. Breadmore...... Primrose edged rose Was Cuthbertson fh... <. Pink and white 27 SWEET ; PEAS? UP 210: DATE Mers.iiuch.; Dicksoneascea. Pink apricot on cream * Mins: soutza hin ces eae aie Apricot and pink Mrs. Wac]2 Cin wits’: sees White flaked orange *Nubian or King Manoel..... Deep maroon FOrchids. °+23.2.570 een eee Helio mauve Primrose spencer. a ae Clear primrose Queen -Victoriasopencere as Primrose flushed rose PINGSabe leas. ses a Oe ee Rose Scarlet Emperor or “Vermilion Brilliant. ose Crimson-scarlet Sen acorn Spence: ai. sarees Chocolate flake Sticling,: Stentss. eee Orange-salmon Tennant Spencer)... eee Purplish mauve “EhOS: SECVENSOM ae ee nen ee Orange-scarlet Wedswood 23) iawe sa eeee ee Light blue VARIETIES FOR [TRUCKERS AND MARKET GARDENERS Truckers and market gardeners who have a market for cut flowers are now awakening to the fact that there is money in Sweet Peas. The writer saw a letter from a trucker some time ago which stated he had made $400.00 that season from quarter of an acre of Sweet Peas. Therefore, to those in suitable locations this is surely encouragement enough to induce them to give these popular flowers a trial. We have heard of growers sowing their Sweet Peas after taking off an early crop of vegetables, but would rather favor the method of sowing Sweet Peas on a free piece of land as early in the spring as possible, putting up the trellising at once, and in the space between the rows planting an early crop of lettuce, radish, etc., that will be cleared away before the Peas come into flower. This plan could be altered according to location and latitude, or they might be planted in the fall; but what we would 28 VARIETIES “FOR: MARKET ‘GARDENERS like to impress upon the grower is that it is no use expecting best results if the seed is planted late in the spring, for to secure a long flowering season the roots must have made good growth before warm weather sets In. As the best prices are obtained from flowers bunched in one color, it is advisable to sow named varieties, and if only six varieties are wanted to start with, we recommend the following as being as good as any for this class of trade: Nora Wnwin cs op kloe.. White MgSe Lime WICKSON 2) 2 4,2 tcl th: Apricot pink Mountess Speucer, .. >... 4:2 hich pink Kine Edward Spencer: .-. ..:" Crimson Florence Nightingale... .°.... Lavender Margaret Madison..:........ Light blue Or a more extended list might be made from the following: Best VARIETIES FOR CUTTING FOR MARKET Early Varieties Burpee’s Earliest White... White Burpee’s Re-Selected Earliest TiE GEA) Pee ARO Rar ch ae ates Pink and white Burpee’s Earliest Sunbeams. . Primrose Le Marquis or Christmas Nay Bluesske ae. oo... Bright blue Worst Aer Wallace us aie cn. 2.2% Lavender iss Nims Sime a4, bi car ok Salmon pink W hite Dorothy Eckford Nora Unwin Primrose Queen Victoria Spencer Primrose Spencer 209 SWEET 7PEAS/ UP) TO" DATE Pink Janet Scott Countess Spencer Zarina Florence Morse Spencer Rose Prince of Wales Marie Corelli Crimson and Scarlet Vermilion Brilliant King Edward Spencer Lavender and Light Blue Asta Ohn Mrs. Geo. Higginson, Jr. Flora Norton Orange-Pink and Salmon Stirling Stent Helen Lewis Blue and Purple Blue Jacket Purple Prince Maroon Black Knight Othello Spencer Striped and Mottled Helen Pierce Aurora Spencer GROWING FOR EXHIBITION Where the main object of the planter is flowers for the exhibition table, more intensive methods of culture are usually carried out. For instance, if the rows of Peas are grown in a block, instead of trenching the ground for each individual row only, the entire piece of ground should be deeply dug and thoroughly manured, as described on page 10 and the growths thinned out considerably; in fact, only taking up two to four stems on each plant. All other branches or laterals being carefully pulled out, not cut out, as by adopting the latter method new laterals would again be emitted in the course of a few days. 30 GROWING FOR EXHIBITION Plant in double rows, allowing twelve inches between the rows, and in transplanting set each plant at least six inches apart in the row. If the seed has been sown four or five in a pot, or in boxes, care must be taken not to break or injure the roots in any way when separating them, and in planting do not cramp the roots. Spread them out carefully and see that the hole is of a sufficient depth to allow for the main root without any doubling. As the growth is concentrated in a limited number of stems the vines will, therefore, be much taller than when allowed to grow naturally, and provision must be made for this when staking. The best method is to drive stout posts at the end of each double row, to which nail two or three cross pieces, the first eighteen inches wide, attached about nine inches from the ground, the center pieces twelve inches wide, and the top cross piece nine inches. Stout wires are then strained horizontally along both sides of the row from the cross pieces. Long stakes or bamboos are now put flat against the wires, to which they must be securely tied. The height of all will naturally depend on what section of the country the grower resides. | Hor imstance, in. our northern states and Canada the vines may be expected to run from ten to twelve or more feet in height, while further south six to eight feet may be sufficient, and much will of course depend on the season. It will be observed that by the above arrangement the tops slope inward, the reason being that when grown by this intensive method, each stem is ultimately brought to the outside of the stakes, to which they must be carefully tied as growth proceeds. Do not thin out the stems until the plants are at 31 SWEET ‘PEAS “UP LOc DATE least twelve inches high, but be careful that they are kept upright during all stages of growth, as when they are allowed to sprawl along the ground they run the risk of being trampled upon or twisted and injured by wind, and it is in the earlier days that the welfare of the plants must be most carefully guarded if success is to be obtained. ; In training the shoots they should be at least four inches apart, according to the space at disposal. On the approach of warm weather do not omit to give the plants a good mulch of strawy farmyard manure, and follow immediately with a thorough soak- ing of water. In applying water throughout the season the grower will be guided by weather and soil conditions, but the plants must not be allowed to suffer for lack of moisture. On no account give water in driblets—either a thorough soaking or none at all. On light porous soils water may safely be given during a dry spell at least twice a week, and on heavier and more retentive soils once a week. When flowers appear liquid manures should also be used, but given rather weak to begin with. Sheep or cow manure, made by steeping it in a tub or barrel, or taken from the farm cesspool and well diluted, will be found excellent, and this may be changed occasionally for artificials. Superphosphate (acid phosphate), one ounce to a gallon of water. Sulphate of potash, nitrate of potash, half an ounce to a gallon of water. Nitrate of soda should be given only if the plants re- quire a special “pick me up”’ towards the end of the season. To give flowers extra fine color | believe there is nothing to surpass soot (the real Scotch imported 32 EXHIBITING: SWEET PEAS soot may now be obtained from many establish- ments). In showery weather it may be dusted along the soil on both sides of the plants, or used as a liquid manure as advised on page 20. EXD BING SWEE F PEAS Intending exhibitors must keep the blooms hard cut from the vines until, say, four days previous to the date of the show, and all varieties that are likely to scald with the sun should be shaded with cheese-cloth or other light material, as in close competition a single scorched flower might make all the difference between a first or second prize. Do not erect the shading until three days previous to the date the flowers are required, and remove it immediately after cutting, as continued shading rapidly weakens the plant. Varieties that have orange in their colorings (such as Stirling Stent, Thos. Stevenson, Helen Lewis), the scarlets, and the blues, should all be protected. The blooms should be cut at the last possible minute, choosing whenever practicable the early morning or the evening, putting the flowers immediately into water and placing in a cool room or cellar until packed. Pick only young, fresh blooms with the last flower just open or in the opening stage, as should you be cutting the day previous to the show, it will be fully expanded- by the time the judges come around. Cut with as long stems as possible. The ideal spray should have a stem of twelve to eighteen inches long, with four good flowers on it. Therefore, aim at the ideal. If the flowers are wet when cut they must be put very thinly 3 33 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE in vases and placed in a room where there is a little heat, but through which a current of air is playing that they may dry off ere being packed, for if they are at all moist when packed for travelling, the flowers will, when unpacked, be found to be discolored and spotted and many of the blooms will drop from the stems. In staging the flowers never crowd them. Let every flower “speak for itself.”” Twenty sprays make a nice vase, and the best method of arranging them is to start by putting some stiff grass or reeds (cut two inches long) in the mouth of the vase, as this helps to keep the stems in position. Each stem must be put in separately. Let every flower be seen as far as possible and all face one way, with the exception of such varieties as have the back of the standards tinted in coloring other than the ground color of the flower, when the position of such might be judiciously varied. One or two pieces of foliage—a little Gypsophila—or light grass, such as Agrostis Nebulosa, might with advantage be used. But this should not be overdone, and only if the rules allow of it. In staging a collection of twelve varieties, they should be stood in three rows, the back rows being tiered eight or nine inches above the other, and arrange the colors so that they do not clash. Even if the show schedule does not ask for it, name each variety with a neat card placed at the base of each vase. During very hot or stormy weather, some exhibitors cut their flowers in the bud stage or partly open and allow them to fully expand in water, adding about a quarter of an ounce of sulphate of iron to three gallons of water. Some colors, such as the light blues, mauves and lavenders improve very much in color by 34 SW EET IPEAS FOR*TABLE DECORATION this method, but the salmon orange and crimson colored varieties lose much of their beauty when cut for long before they are required. SV EEA PEAS-FOR TABLE-AND OTHER DECORATIONS Few flowers lend themselves so readily to the deco- rator’s art as does the fragrant Sweet Pea. They require no wiring or stiffening of the stem—once they are cut, they are ready for the deft fingers to create charming effects for any purpose. Pretty effects may be had by associating two colors that harmonize, though perhaps nothing is daintier than a table decorated with one variety only—say, the beautiful Countess Spencer. A lovely combination may be obtained by using Barbara or Stirling Stent with Queen Victoria Spencer or Primrose Spencer, or a crimson and a yellow, and Orchid in conjunction with a rich cream pink, and Illuminator with a rich primrose variety—all form most charming color harmonies. Lavender and blue Sweet Peas look dull under artificial light, though very pleasing at other times. Or, again, various shades of pink, from light to dark, form a beautiful color scheme. In arranging the flowers let all be as light and airy looking as possible; never jam the sprays closely together; strive to let every flower be seen. Allow a few flowers to stand well above the others, which tends to give all a natural appearance. A few sprays of colored lycopodium allowed to trail over the sides of the receptacles and arranged on the table, or sprays of asparagus, smilax or other light greenery, all help 35 SWEET PEAS’ UP) TO) DATE the general effect, while light grasses and a little of their own foliage inserted among the flowers will lend srace and elegance to the arrangement—~f not overdone. THE «SPENCER PY PECOF-SWERIia E> The introduction of Countess Spencer in 1904 will be marked as creating a new era in the Sweet Pea world. This most lovely of pink Sweet Peas is of immense size, and the forerunner of quite a new type. Previous to the Countess Spencer appearing, our Sweet Peas were either of hooded standard or expanded upright standard forms. Countess Spencer was the first to appear with beautifully frilled and wavy stand- ard and wings, of immense size—but, alas! it was not fixed to type, as it sported very badly. This sportive character, however, has proved really a blessing in disguise, as so many of the sports were of quite new shades, at the same time containing all the parents’ characteristic form and size. All would have been right had the various seed-growers not been in such a hurry to rush those unfixed sports upon the market, much to the disgust of many amateur growers. A peculiarity about the “Spencer” sports is that they generally come in duplicate: 7. e., the same color in Spencer and grandiflora types. Take, for instance, Helen Lewis and John Ingman: with Helen Lewis sport there was also a very large grandiflora sport of the same color, similar in appearance to Lady Mary Currie, and with John Ingman appeared a variety of much the same color, but also of grandiflora type. The result was that both were saved, and as the old type is so much more prolific in seed-bearing, the result 36 THE SPENCER, TYPE.OF SWEEF PEAS became worse instead of even remaining stationary. However, observant growers are now becoming more careful in the saving and roguing of their stocks, so that in the future we may hope for better results from new colors of the Spencer type. Much has been written on the sportiveness of Count- ess Spencer and its seedlings, some growers affirming that it is caused by small insects, others that the bee is supposed to split the calyx or keel and so carry the pollen to other varieties; others again explain how the pistils in some flowers are enlarged and come out through the keel, and so are in a position to catch the pollen from other varieties; but it 1s a question how any of these theories can be established, as it is a rec- ognized fact that fertilization has been effected ere the flower opens. KING WHITE. Engraved from a Photograph 37 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE LIST, OF SPENGER«SWEEABREAS The following includes—so far as we know—all varieties introduced up to 1914, and although the majority of them will never become popular, a description of these later introductions will doubtless be of interest to Sweet Pea enthusiasts. We have tested practically every variety as it was introduced, and are now offering | those sorts which in our opinion are of superior merit, full particulars of which will be found in “ Burpee’s Annual.” A. B. Bantock. (Baker’s, 1910.) Creamy buff and pink, shaded amber. A. N. Dickson. (Breadmore, 1911.) Rosy-lilac with purple wings. A. A. Fasius. (Alsen, 1910.) Glowing rose. AFTERGLOW. (Bolton, 1911.) Reddish-mauve with violet wings. Accie ELper. (Breadmore, 1913.) Similar to Decorator. ANITA. (Cautley, 1912.) White, flushed lilac. AGRICOLA. (Bolton, 1913.) White, flushed soft lilac. ALBERT GILBERT. (Gilbert, 1910.) Rose self, similar to Marie Corelli. ALPHA. (Breadmore, 1912.) Pale lilac self. ALTHORP CREAM. (Cole, 1910.) Similar to Primrose Spencer. ALTHORP WHITE. (Cole, 1910.) Similar to White Spencer. AMBER. (Aldersey and Jones, 1913.) Rich salmon rose. AMERICA SPENCER. (Burpee, 1910.) Red flaked on white ground. AMETHYsT. (Aldersey, 1910.) Violet blue. ANDREW AITKEN. (Bolton, 1913.) Soft salmon. ANGLIAN BRILLIANT. (King, 1914.) Coppery-red. ANGLIAN CRIMSON. (King, 1910.) Crimson self. 38 “SPENCER. VARIETIES ANGLIAN Fairy. (King, 1913.) Light lemon, suffused pale copper. ANGLIAN LAVENDER. (King, 1911.) Deep lavender, suf- fused pink. ANGLIAN ORANGE. (King, 1911.) Salmon-pink. ANGLIAN Pink. (King, 1911.) Salmon-pink on = cream ground. Similar to Miriam Beaver. ANGLIAN Roya. (King, 1914.) Crimson-lake. ANNABEL Leg. (Alsen, 1913.) Rosy-mauve. Similar to Irish Belle. ANNA LuMLeEy. (Lumley, 1909.) Synonymous with Othello Spencer. ANNIE SCULPHER. (Deal, 1913.) Salmon-cerise. ANNIS Gipson. (Breadmore, 1912.) Purplish-mauve. AppLE BLossoM SPENCER. (Burpee, 1908.) Rose and blush: The form is beautiful and it 1s of largest size. ApriL. (Dipnall, 1913.) Blue flake on white ground. ARTHUR GREEN. (Dobbie, 1911.) Bronzy-brown with vio- let wings. ArtHUR Unwin. (Unwin, 1910.) Salmon-rose with buff wings. = ASHANTEE. (Stark, 1912.) Reddish maroon. Asta Onn. (Morse, 1909.) Charming soft lavender, suf- fused mauve. AUDREY CrigER. (Breadmore, 1908.) A lovely shade of salmon pink, of the largest size and finest form. AURORA SPENCER. (Burpee-Morse, 1909.) Cream white ground; exquisitely flaked and mottled rich orange salmon. AUSTIN FREDERICK. (Woodcock, 1911.) Pale lavender. AVALANCHE. (Lumley, 1912.) White self. BARBARA. (Holmes-Sydenham, 1912.) Salmon-orange self. BEATRICE SPENCER. (Morse, 1909.) White ground tinted with soft pink and buff on the standard, while each wing has a blotch of brighter pink near the base. Beauty. (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A blush pink Spencer. Similar to Florence Morse Spencer. 39 | SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE Benp Or. (Aldersey, 1912.) Salmon standard, rose wings. BERTHA Massey. (Bide, 1911.) Rosy-lilac self. BertiE Usuer. (Usher, 1912.) Violet flake on white. Similar to Loyalty. BERTRAND DEAL. (Deal, 1910.) Rosy-mauve self. Beryt. (Aldersey, 1913.) Creamy-pink self. Very similar to Lilian. Betty. (Dobbie, 1912.) Purplish-mauve. Betry CauTLey. (Cautley, 1911.) Peach, shaded salmon. BiRDBROOK. (Bolton, 1913.) Maroon flake on white. BirD OF PARADISE. (Hemus, 1912.) A Helen Pierce Spencer. BLack KNIGHT SPENCER. (Stevenson, 1910.) Shining ma- roon. BLUE FLAKE SPENCER. (Box, 1912.) Blue flake on white. BLUE JACKET. (Stark, 1912.) Deep navy blue. BLUE Kinc. (Bide, 1913.) Dark blue. BLuE Picotee. (Dobbie, 1914.) White edged violet. BLUSH SPENCER. (King, 1909.) White suffused blush pink. BoppigE K. (Chandler-Unwin, 1908.) * Blush’ “wintery "to. we ADMIRATION. (Bur- pee, 1900.) Beau- tiful pink laven- dete tae ADONIS.* (Carter: 1884.) Standard carmine pink with rosy wings. E. ADMIRAL Foéo* (Breadmore, 1900.) Extremely dark violet maroon. H. AGNES ECKFORD. (Eckford, 1907.) A soft blush pink, self color. H. AGNES JOHNSTON. (Eckfords’ “19 3.) Standards are rose ECKFORD’S “BLANCHE BURPEE.”’ pink, shaded cream; A typical bloom of the erect or expanded 2B Se : Spe pinkish buff wings. Ze ALBATROsS.** (Dobbie, 1907.) A pure white black-seeded Vanlety. 19 bd: 62 GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS ALBA MaGnlirica.* (Henderson, 1890.) A pure white self. fee ALBION.** (Stark, 1906.) Ivory white. ALIcE Eckrorp.* (Eckford, 1896.) Creamy white, with tinge of purplish violet. E. AMERICA. (Vaughan, 1896) White striped red. E. AMERICAN BELLE.* (Burpee, 1894.) Standard bright rose; wings white with carmine spots. Now discarded. E. AMERICAN QUEEN.” (Burpee, 1902.) Standard clear sal- mon red; wings bright deep rose. E. ANNIE B. GiLroy.** (Eckford, 1909.) Deep cerise. ANNIE STARK.** (Stark, 1906.) White, delicately flushed with pale pink. APPLE Biossom. (Eckford, 1887.) Shaded and edged soft rose on white. H. AvurorA. (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, striped orange salmon. -S; H: AvuTocraT.** Better known under the name of Indigo King. AzurE Fairy. (Bath, 1910.) French gray, watered blue. BADEN PowELL.** (Jones & Son, 1901.) Similar to Cap- tain of the Blues. . S..H. BAKER’S SCARLET.** (Baker, 1909.) Scarlet self. E. BEACON. (Bolton, 1906.) Standard cerise with creamy wings. E. BLAck.* (Noble, Cooper & Bolton, 1880.) Generally known as Invincible Black. E. BLACKBIRD.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) Blackish maroon. Synonymous with Midnight. S. H. BLacK KniGuHT. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard dark claret, wings brownish purple. E. BLack MicHaEL. (Eckford, 1905.) Bright shining reddish maroon... E: BLANCHE BurPEE. (Eckford, 1895.) Snowy white. E. BLANCHE Ferry. (Ferry, 1889.) Standard bright rose- pink; wings creamy white. E. BLuE BELLE. (Bide, 1909.) Bright blue. 63 SWEET ‘PEAS UP>fO (DATE BiuE Epcep.* (Trevor Clarke-Carter, 1883.) White and pink edged with blue. E. Biue Hysrip.* Probably identical with Blue Edged. E. BLUSHING BeaAuty.* (Eckford, 1893.) Soft rose-pink. H. BoLton’s Pink. (Bolton, 1905.) Rich orange-pink. E. BorEATTON.* (Eckford, 1887.) Dark maroon self. E. Bouquet. (Deal, 1912.) A pink Helen Pierce. BRIDE OF NiAGARA.* (Vick, 1895.) Bright carmine rose standard; wings white, tinged pink; double flowers. E. BRIDESMAID. (Vaughan, 1904.) Carmine shading to rose and pink; wings of a lighter shade. E. BRILMIANT.* . (Burpee, “1897.)) ¥Crimson’ scarlet-v4S~ He BRILLIANT BLugE. (Burpee, 1907.) The standard is very large, slightly hooded, of the richest dark navy blue; the shaded purple wings are deep Oxford blue. E. BRITANNIA.** (Dobbie, 1904.) White, flaked crimson. S. las BRONZE KinG.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1894.) Coppery stand- ard, ivory white wings. E. BRONZE Prince.* (Eckford-Bull, 1885.) Standard rose flushed bronze scarlet with pale blush wings. E. BuTTERFLY.* (Sutton, 1878.) White, edged and shaded with blue. H. CALIFORNIA.* (Lynch, 1897.) Very pale pink, self colored. Hed Catyrso.* (Eckford, 1900.) Magenta, and veined mauve. By CaprRicE.** (Johnson, 1906.) White, delicately shaded pale pink. S. H. CAPTAIN CLARKE.* (Clarke-Sharpe, date of introduction unknown.) White, flushed and penciled with carmine; wings blue edged. E. CAPTAIN OF THE BiuEs. (Eckford, 1890.) Standard bright purple blue; wings paler blue. E. CaptivaTion. (Eckford, 1897.) Of a deep magenta shade. Sais 64 GRANDIFLORA SWEET PEAS CARDINAL.* (Eckford, 1885.) Scarlet crimson. E. CARMEN SyLva.* (Laxton, 1892.) Claret shading to white; wings light lilac. E. CARMINE Rose.** (Muskett.) Date of introduction not known. Better known as Princess Beatrice. Color, light inka FE CELESTIAL.* (Lorenz, 1896.) Standard light mauve; wings lavender. H. CHANCELLOR.* (Eckford, 1898.) Standard bright orange; wings bright orange pink. H. CoccinEA. (Eckford, 1901.) Self colored, bright rich cherry. se Cotonist.* (Eckford, 18098.) Soft lilac, overlaid bright TOSes Os bl CoLumBiaA.* (Burpee, 1897.) White ground, suffused pur- ‘ple and penciled pink. E. Coquette. (Eckford, 1896.) Deep primrose, shaded with lavender. S:H. CoraL Gem.** (Vaughan, 1907.) . Light coral self. H. CoRONATION.** (Introducer and year of introduction un- known.) Blush with pink at the back of the standard. Coronet.* (Walker-Hutchins, 1898.) White striped with orange pink. E. Countess CapoGAn. (Eckford, 1899.) Bluish purple stand- ard and clear blue wings. E. CounTEss OF ABERDEEN.* (Eckford, 1896.) Self colored soft;pink..: Hi Countess OF LatHom. (Eckford, 1900.) A soft cream tint, heavily shaded with flesh pink in the center of the standard. fa: Countess oF Powis.* (Eckford, 1897.) Glowing orange, suffused with purple. E. Countess oF Rapnor. (Eckford, 1891.) Light lavender with faint purplish tinge. H. COUNTESS OF SHREWSBURY.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose stand- ard with white wings. E. 5 65 SWEET PEAS ;UP 10, DATE CREAM OF BROCKHAMPTON.** (Foster, year of introduction unknown.) — A clear cream self. CREOLE.* (Burpee, 1896.) The standard is a light-pinkish lavender with wings of pure lavender. E. | Crown JeweL. (Eckford, 1896.) Primrose ground, veined with violet. H. CROWN Princess oF Prussia.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1869.) Deep pink shading to very light pink. For some time this was a popular variety with florists. E. CyriL BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Rosy carmine. San Dainty. (Burpee, 1903.) The flowers on first opening appear to be white, but quickly change to white with pink edge, making a most charming contrast; there is more pink on the edges of the standard than on the edges of the wings. S.-H. Davip R. WiLtiAmMson. (Eckford, 1905.) The large stand- ard is of a rich indigo blue, while the wings are slightly lighter in-shade. S/H. Dawn.** (Stark.) (Standard light crimson magenta; wings white shaded crimson. S. H. DAYBREAK.* (Burpee, 1896.) White marbled rose and crim- SON. alts DeELicaTA.* (Stark, 1906.) White tinted with pink. S. H. DeELIGHT.* (Eckford, 1889.) White crested with crimson. This variety never became popular. E. DEVONSHIRE CREAM.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Cream selicaHi: DoLty VARDEN.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard bright pur- ple-magenta shading lighter, almost white on the sides and penciled with heavy maroon at the base. H. Domino.** (Henderson, 1905.) Known by its more popu- lar name, ‘Speckled Beauty,’’—which is described as hav- ing primrose ground marbled with crimson. Dora BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A primrose self, shaded=biunt: S: Hl: 66 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES DorotHy EckFrorpb. (Eckford, 1903.) Large, pure white flower. © S.-H. DorotTHy TENNANT. (Eckford, 1892.) Rosy mauve. H. Dorotuy Vick.** (Vick, 1897.) Standard scarlet, wings crimson, produces double flowers. E. DoucLas BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A_ bright purple flake. S. H. DucHEss OF EDINBURGH.* (Eckford, 1887.) Crimson. E. DWenw eSS'0 F SUTHERLAND.* (Eckford, 1808.) Pearly — white, suffused light pink. H. DUCHESS OF WESTMINSTER. (Eckford, 1900.) Apricot flushed pink; wings rose pm... .S: 1, DwiC Hye S'S: OF York.* — (Eck- \ = - SSR ford, 1805) : / Wl SSS SQ White — striped 4 NS with pinkish purple: +E: Dupe “LEEs?* (Breadmore, 1908.) A deep maroon. S. H. DUKE OF CLARENCE.* (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy. claret. H. DUKE OF SUTHERLAND. (Eckford, 1898.) Standard deep claret; wings deep violet blue. H. DuKE OF WESTMINSTER. (Eckford, 1899.) Rosy claret. H, Duke oF York.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard rosy pink; wings white. E. EARL Cromer. (Eckford, 1907.) Standard reddish mauve; wings large, of the same deep rich mauve. H. 67 Mf if SS DOROTHY ECKFORD. Representing the slightly hooded type. SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE EARLIEST OF ALL. (Burpee, 1898.) Flowers fully ten days earlier than Extra Early Blanche Ferry, bearing a profusion of beautifully tinted flowers. Standard bright, rosy pink; wings creamy white, suffused pale rose. Planted under glass in September, the vines begin to bloom in Novem- Beira. EARLIEST OF ALL RE-SELECTED EXTREME Earty. (Burpee, 1902.) This strain is as much earlier than Earliest of All as that variety is ahead of Extra Early Blanche Ferry. The plants come into full flower when only twelve inches high. Christmas Pink 1s similar. E. Eartiest Wuite. (Burpee, 1906.) This was discovered ‘ina field of the Re-Selected Burpee’s Earliest of All. There was only one plant and this produced pure white flowers. A crop planted July 12th came in bloom August 20th, while the plants of Mont Blanc planted on the same day showed no sign of bloom. The plant is unusually sturdy and of dwarf and even growth. The best white for greenhouse. E. EASTERN QUEEN.* (Introducer and year of introduction unknown.) Cream ground, slightly flaked. ELEGANCE. (Stark, 1909.) White, feathered orange. ELFRIDA.* (Johnson, 1904.) Primrose, lightly striped rose. E. ExvizA Eckrorp.* (Eckford, 1895.) Flesh pink, suffused rose and white. H. Emity Eckrorp. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy mauve changing tolight blue. -S.-H. Emity HENpDERSON. (Henderson, 1894.) White. E. Emity Lyncn.* (Lynch, 1897.) Standard scarlet rose; wings primrose tinged pink. H. EmpREss OF INpIA.* (Eckford, 1891.) Standard rose, with white wings. E. Etna.* (Laxton, 1892.) A dark brownish crimson and vio- lete-E EVELYN BREADMORE.** (Breadmore, 1906.) Blush white, slightly tinged pink. S. H. 68 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES Evetyn Byatt. (Watkins & Simpson, 1906.) Standard scarlet orange, with rosy wings. E. EVENING STAR.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose, shaded light pink. E. ExguisirE. (Bath, 1912.) White, veined blue. FaiRY QueEEN.* (Haage & Schmidt, 1872.) White with faint carmine pencilings on throat. E. FASCINATION.* (Eckford, 1900.) Magenta mauve; wings deep mauve. H. FASHION.* (Burpee, 1899.) A soft shade of reddish lav- ender, deepening at base of standard. Similar to Colonist. H. FinettA BatuHurst.** (Bathurst-Mackereth, 1908.) Pure white. E. FIREFLY.* (Eckford, 1893.) Scarlet crimson. E. Frora Norton. (Vaughan, 1904.) A beautiful rich lav- ender, almost a bright blue. E. FLORENCE FRAZER.** (Vaughan, 1904.) Standard bright crimson rose; wings white tinged pink. E. FLORENCE MOoLyNEAUx.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Cream flaked Watherose) &E. Gaiety.* (Eckford, 18 93:) Standard flaked with cerise pink; wings striped rosy purple. S. H. GeEorGE Gorpon.* -(Eckford;') 1901:) Claret: red, self colored, but turns to a dull purple with age. H. Giapvys Deat.** An English name for the American va- riety, Mrs. Geo. Higginson. S. H. Giapvys Frencu.** (Unwin, 1909.) A light blue Helen — pierce: GoLpEN Gate.* (Burpee, 1897.) Pinkish mauve and lav- ender. <.Si:H. GoLDEN GLEAM.* (Sunset Co., 1897.) Color creamy yellow. Nearly identical with Mrs. Eckford. S. H. GoL_pEN Rose. (Burpee, 1902.) The ground color is a clear primrose yellow, beautifully flushed with rosy pink: Seelde 69 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE Gorceous. (Burpee, 1899.) Standard salmon-orange; wings heavily suffused orange-salmon. E. GRACIE GREENWOOD.* (Eckford, 1902.) Cream shaded with delicate pink. S. H. GRAND BiuE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Clear, light blue color, same as Imperial Blue. H. Gray Friar.* (Burpee, 1896.) Heavily shaded with watered purple markings on creamy white ground. H. G. W. Kerr. (Baker’s, 1909.) Coral pink. HANNAH Da ce.** (Dobbie, 1908.) A large, rich maroon selfil” So ik Haro_p. (House, 1910.) Primrose self. HELEN Pierce. . (Morse, 1905.) The color is very bright blue, mottled on pure white. Decidedly the best mottled variety. E. Henry Ecxrorp. (Eckford, 1906.) Bright, soft, flaming orange, deepening slightly in the center of the flower. This variety requires shading with cheesecloth to prevent scalding in bright weather. E. HERBERT SmitH.** (Sydenham, 1908.) A_ bi-color after the style of Evelyn Byatt. E. | Her Majesty. (Eckford, 1893.) Rosy pink. H. Hester.** (Hemus, 1907.) Blue striped, and appears to be the same as Marbled Blue. E. Hetty Green.* (Ward-Bolton, 1907.) Bright orange scar- let; wings rosy crimson. E. HiLtpa JEFFERY.** (Breadmore, 1907.) Color creamy rose. SE: H. J. R. Dicces.* (Eckford, 1908.) Bright claret shaded maroon. S. H. Hon. F. Bouverie. (Eckford, 1899.) Pinkish salmon standard; wings shaded to a lighter salmon-buff. S. H. Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon. (Eckford, 1901.) A beautiful primrose color. E. Horace Wricut. (Eckford, 1907.) A self. A rich violet blue color. S. H. 70 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES IGNEA.** (Eckford, 1892.) Bright scarlet crimson with purple wings. S. H. IMPERIAL BLuE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Blue and mauve, same as Grand Blue. H. IMPERIAL PurpLe.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.) Purple with blue shading. E. INCONSTANCY.** (Ferry, 1902.) White and primrose flow- ers on same plant. E. INDIGO Kinc.* (Eckford, 1885.) Dark maroon purple standard with indigo blue wings. Autocrat is synonymous. “Hi INVINCIBLE BLAcK.* (Introducer unknown, 1871.) Dark Clarets. INVINCIBLE BLUE.* (Laxton, 1888.) Dark: blue. . Ez INVINCIBLE CArR- MINE.) s:(Laxton, 1885.) A brilliant, glowing carmine. Ey INVINCIBLE SCAR- LET.* (S. Brown- Garter; -1806-) Crimson scarlet. EES: INVINCIBLE SCARLET STRIPED WITH V/, “WHITE.* (Intro- JANET SCOTT. ducer and date of ace ee introduction unknown.) Red, striped with white. INVINCIBLE STRIPED.* (Carter, 1874.) Crimson striped white. E. Isa EckForpb.* (Eckford, 1886.) White suffused rosy pink. E. Ivy MiLver.** (Miller, 1908.) White edged with blue. S.H. Similar to Maid of Honor. 71 SWIEET ‘PEAS ‘UP #0: DATE James Grigeve.** (Eckford, 1908.) A large sulphur yellow. E. Janet Scotr. (Burpee, 1903.) This might be called a new shade of rich pink. The unusual size of the wings with the large, substantial, hooded standard, gives the flower an ap- pearance of enormous size. H. JEANNIE Gorpon. (Eckford, 1902.) Standard rose, shaded cream; wings creamy suffused rose. S. H. JESSIE CUTHBERTSON. (Dobbie, 1903.) Flaked and striped salmon rose on a cream ground. S. H. Jer. (Aldersey-Sydenham, 1909.) Similar to Midnight. JosEPpHINE Wuite.** (Ferry, 1902.) White. E. J. T. Crrer.* (Breadmore, 1907.) A lavender self. Juanita.* (Burpee, 1896.) Color pure white, delicately lined and striped with pale lavender. H. KATHERINE TRacy.* (Ferry, 1896.) Soft rosy pink, lighter-at edges: °E. Kinc Epwarp VII. (Eckford, 1903.) A bright crimson self, large, with three flowers borne on a strong, stout stem. Sr Lapy ABERDARE.* (Breadmore, 1904.) Soft light pink, self colored. H. Lapy BEACONSFIELD.* (Eckford, 1892.) Standard salmon pink; wings primrose yellow. E. Lapy Cooper.** (Breadmore, 1906.) A clear, lavender self. (SEL Lapy GrisEL HAMILTON. (Eckford, 1899.) Light lavender standard with azure blue wings. H. Lapy Mary Currie. (Eckford, 1898.) A deep orange pink. H. Lapy M. Ormssy-Gore. (Eckford, 1901.) Pale buff tipped deep buff, overlaid with delicate pink. H. Lapy Nina Batrour. (Eckford, 1897.) Delicate mauve shaded dove gray. H. Lapy PeEnzaAnce.* (Eckford, 1894.) Rose pink, tinged orange-salmon. H. 72 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES Lapy SKELMERSDALE.* (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine standard, shading to white. S. H. LEMON QUEEN.* (Eckford, 1892.) White tinted with lemon and blush: E- Licht BLUE AND PurpLe.* (Introducer unknown, 1700.) Dark maroon with blue shadings. E. Litrte Dorrit.* (Eckford, 1897.) Standard clear rosy pink; wings white, suffused rose. E. Lorp Kenyon. (Eckford, 1900.) Bright rose pink. H. Lorp Nexson. (House, 1907.) A rich, deep navy blue. This is identical with Burpee’s Brilliant Blue. E. Lorp Rosespery. (Eckford, 1902.) A_ self colored rosy macenta. oi. Lotrie Eckrorp. (Eckford, 1894.) White ground, del- icately edged lavender blue. H. Lottie Hutcuins.* (Burpee, 1898.) Flaked pink on cream sround.. S/H: Love.ty. (Eckford, 1895.) Pink; wings delicate rose. H. Luminosa. (Eckford, 1911.) Coral-colored self. MADAME CarnotT.* (Laxton, 1892.) A blue self. H. MADELINE Cote. (Stark, 1910.) Pale lavender. Macci£ GerRING. (Eckford, 1911.) Cream self. Maip oF Honor. (Burpee, 1897.) Light blue on a white ground, shaded and edged. Similar to Lottie Eckford but a- better flower. SH. Mayestic.* (Burpee, 1901.) Standard is a deep rose pink, while wings are also deep rose, but rather softer in tomes FH: MarBLeED BiueE.** (Sutton, 1906.) White, striped and flaked blue. E. MARCHIONESS OF CHOLMONDELEY. (Eckford, 1904.) Soft shade of cream overlaid with pink. H. Mars.* (Eckford, 1895.) Rich crimson'self. H. May Perrett.** (Eckford, 1908.) Ivory flushed with butii7rE. Memento.** Synonymous with Flora Norton. E. 73 SWEET ‘PEAS -UP*10O “DATE Merteor.* (Eckford, 1895.) Orange-salmon standard with pink wings. E. Mip Biue. (Dobbie, 1909.) Of medium size; color deep, sky-blue. E. MipnicuHT (‘Jer’). (Burpee, 1908.) Standard deep pur- plish maroon, almost black; wings darkest claret. S. H. Mikapbo.* (Eckford, 1896.) Rose crimson striped with white. H. MiLpreD Warp.** (Sydenham, 1907.) Orange-scarlet. E. Mititie Mastin. (Sydenham, 1908.) Rich rosy crimson self. Very much deeper than Prince of Wales. S. H. Mima JoHNsToN.** (Eckford, 1908.) Bright rose carmine. E. Miss Bostock.** (Hemus, 1907.) Cream and pink. H. Miss H. C. Puitsprick.** (Stark, 1905.) Mauve overlaid with clear blue. We consider this identical with Flora Norton: E: Miss Hunrt.* (Eckford, 1887.) Standard pale carmine salmon; wings soft pink. E. Miss Wititmotr. (Eckford, 1901.) Rich orange pink; delicately shaded rose. S. H. Mopesty. (Burpee, 1898.) In strong sunlight it is seem- ingly a silvery white, but the suffused pink tint 1s shown on closer examination. H. Monarcu.* (Eckford, 1891.) Standard bronzy crimson; wings, violet. H. Mont Bianc. (Benary, 1900.) Extremely early flowering; white self, Florence Denzer is synonymous. E. MoTHER O’ PEARL.** (Sydenham-Aldersey, 1909.) Silvery lavender:.- S. H. Mrs. A. Matcoim.** (Malcolm-King, 1909.) Primrose Selmar: Mrs. BIiEBERSTEDT.** (Bieberstedt, 1908.) A lovely deep lavender selfi.cssiH; Mrs. CnHarces Masters.** (Eckford, 1909.) Standard rosy salmon; wings cream. 74 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES Mrs. CoLiierR. (Dobbie, 1907.) In form and substance it resembles Dorothy Eckford. The flowers are large, coming in threes and fours on long, stiff stems and of a rich, primrose tint, entirely free from any trace of pink. S. H. Mrs. DucpaLe. (Eckford, 1899.) Light carmine rose, with faint markings of primrose. S. H. Mrs. Eckrorp. (Eckford, 1891.) A primrose self. S. H. Mrs. E. Girman. (Eckford, 1909.) Light rose bicolor. Mrs. FitzGeratp.** (Eckford, 1900.) Buff flushed with a tinge of pink. Synonymous with Stella Morse. S. H. Mrs. GeorceE Hiccinson, Jr. (Vaughan, 1904.) A very delicate lavender. E. Mrs. GLApDSTONE.* (Eckford, 1890.) Soft flesh pink. E. Mrs. H. KENDALL-BARNES.** (Dobbie, 1905.) Standard rich apricot; wings creamy buff. S. H. Mrs. Jos. CHAMBERLAIN. (Eckford, 1895.) Ground color is a clear silvery white, brightly striped soft rosy pink. S. H. Mrs. KnicHt-SmitH.** (Eckford, 1904.) A_ pink self, hooded, with large open wings. Not fixed. H. Mrs. R. F. Ferton.** (Bolton, 1907.) Primrose yellow self. Synonymous with Mrs. Collier. S. H. Mrs. R. M.SHELTON.** (Baker, 1909.) Rosy carmine self. H. Mrs. R. Massey. (Bide, 1910.) Pinkish lilac, buff ground. ims “SANKEY.~ ~CEckford; “1S90:)- Pure’ - white: . black seeded. H. Mrs. WALTER WriGHT. (Eckford, 1903.) The standard is a beautiful shade of mauve, clear and bright, while the wings are a bright cerulean blue, slightly shaded with the mauve color of the standard. H. , Navy Biue. (Burpee, 1899.) General color effect dark blue; standard brilliant royal purple; wings pure violet; the whole flower elegantly veined in sharp relief. S. H. New Countess. (Burpee, 1897.) Pure light lavender throughout both on standard and wings. An Improved Countess of Radnor in which is eliminated the reddish cast in standard. H. 75 SWEET PEAS UP; TO DATE Niccer.* (House, 1905.) Very dark maroon, nearly black. ie Nove.tty.* (Eckford, 1895.) Standard orange rose; wings delicate mauve. E. NympuHagca.* (Vaughan, 1904.) White turning to pink. Sil ge Oppity.* (Burpee, 1896.) Pale carmine edged with bright gosien~ Boh el: ORANGE Prince.* (Eckford, 1886.) Bright orange pink. Ee OreEGonIA.* (Walker, 1895.) White striped with brownish fed! eo: vk: ORIENTAL.* (Burpee, 1898.) Rich orange flowers. H. OTHELLO. (Eckford, 1899.) A deep maroon self color; very large size; standard slightly hooded. S. H. Ovip.* (Eckford, 1894.) Bright rosy pink with crimson veins in both standard and wings. H. PAINTED Lapy.* (Introducer not known, 1700.) Standard rose; wings white tinged with pink. E. PEACH Biossom.* (Eckford, 1894.) Light salmon pink and bull... PerpitA. (Bath, 1910.) White, marbled pink. PHENOMENAL. (Henderson, 1905.) White, shaded and edged lilac.. E: Pink FriAr.* (Burpee, 1899.) White, lightly marbled light rose crimson. Large size. H. PINK SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1903.) Soft shell pink. Prima Donna. (Eckford, 1896.) A pure pink self. H. PRIMROSE.* (Eckford, 1889.) Primrose self. E. PRINCE EDWARD oF York. (Eckford, 1897.) Crimson scarlet standard. Crimson wings; large open form. E. PRINCE OLAF. (Dobbie, 1908.) The bold, effective flowers are striped and mottled bright blue on white ground; of good size with erect standard. E. PRINCE OF WaLEs. (Eckford, 1898.) A large, bright rose Selix /S 2H. ‘ 70 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES Princess BEATRICE.* (Hurst, 1883.) A light pink self. Syn., Carmine Rose. E. Princess Louise.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown,—probably first offered in 1895.) Magenta-pink standard; lilac wings. E. Princess Maup oF WaALEs.** (Eckford, 1906.) A_ pale colored Coccinea. E. Princess May.* (Laxton, 1893.) Pale mauve standard; lavender wings. E. PRINCESS OF WALES.* (Eckford, 1885.) White striped mauve and purple. H. Princess Victoria.** (Eckford, 1891.) Cerise standard; wings more pink. E. PurpLe.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.) A rich shade coming between Boreatton and Black. E. PurpLE Brown.* An old dark-striped form. PurpLe Kino.** (Eckford, 1908.) Purple, shaded indigo. E: PuRPLE PrinceE.* (Eckford, 1886.) Standard dark ma- roon; wings purple. H. PURPLE STRIPED.* (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.) An old variety; purple striped on white eround. ~E. QUEEN ALEXANDRA. (Eckford, 1906.) An intense bright Seamlet selive -E. QUEEN OF ENGLAND.* (Eckford, 1887.) White self. E. QUEEN OF Pinks.** (Sutton, 1901.) Pure salmon _ pink. SoH. QUEEN OF SPAIN. (Eckford, 1907.) A new pearly pink selicSizn: QUEEN OF THE IsLes. (Eckford, 1885.) Crimson scarlet striped on a white ground. S. H. QUEEN VicToriA. (Eckford, 1897.) A light yellow or prim- rose: Self. TA: RAMONA.* (Burpee, 1896.) Light pink, striped on a white sround. S: 1H: Fi SWEET {PEAS :UP, TOSDATE Rep Ripinc Hoop.* (Sunset Seed and Plant Co., 1897.) Snapdragon form; crimson. ReGINA.** (Bolton-Sharpe, 1908.) A large maroon self. E; Ristnc Sun.* (Laxton, 1892.) Standard a bright, rosy orange; blush wings. E. RoMOLO PiazzAni. (Eckford, 1905.) A violet blue self of large;size; susan: RosEaTE. (Aldersey, 1912.) Salmon-rose and orange. Rose bu Barri. (Dickson-Burpee, 1911.) Salmon-rose and coral. Ros—E Queen.** (Stark, 1905.) A rosy pink selfii:} Sink Roya Rose.* (Eckford 1894.) A light pink seliis: M: Roya Rose. (Eckford, 1894.) Standard crim- son pink, deepening at center; wings pink. S. H. SADIE Burpee W. S. (Eckford, 1899.) Pure white flower of large A eX RICHTED 1 x WB. CQ, 33 \ sizenig Et. ECKFORD’S ‘‘SADIE BURPEE.” SADIE Burpee B.S. Intensely hooded type. (Eckford, 1899.) Pure white, the flowers show a delicate pink flush in the standard when first opened. He SAFRANO. (Gilbert, 1911.) Primrose. SAINT GeEorGE. (Hurst, 1908.) Scarlet orange self; large and very bright; awarded the Silver Medal of the National Sweet Pea Society, 1907. A great improvement on Gor- geous and Evelyn Byatt. E. 78 Rita ex ans GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES SALMON QUEEN. (Clark, 1910.) Carmuine-scarlet. SALOPIAN. (Eckford, 1897.) A rich, dark crimson self. H. SALVATION LassiE.* (Burpee, 1902.) Light carmine, the standard and wings both hooded like a Salvation Army bonnet. SAPPHIRE. (Aldersev, 1912.) Indigo-blue. SCARLET Gem. (Eckford, 1904.) Bright scarlet. E. SCARLET STRIPED WITH WHITE.* — (Introducer and date of introduction unknown.) One of the old varieties and dis- carded some time ago. SENATOR. (Eckford, 1891.) Creamy white ground, striped chocolate. H. SENSATION.* (Burpee, 1898.) Standard pink and_ buff. Wings white. S. H. SHAHZADA.* (Eckford, 1897.) Duil maroon, shaded purple. Sth SHASTA. (Morse, 1905.) When first opening the flowers have a creamy tint which changes to an ivory white when fully expanded. E. SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1900.) White shaded pink; flow- ers are like a Snapdragon bud. SPECKLED Beauty.* (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose ground, marbled with crimson. H. SPLENDID Litac.* (Of German origin, first offered in 1860.) Dull purple magenta standard; wings white, tinged lilac. EB: SPLENDOUR.* (Eckford, 1887.) Deep rosy crimson self, with slightly paler wings. H. STANLEY. (Eckford, 1890.) Self colored in darkest maroon of burnished tint. E. STELLA Morse. (Burpee, 1898.) Has a faint tinge of pink underlying the cream, producing a true apricot shade, -H. SUE EarL.** (Burpee, 1903.) Standard primrose, with mauve edges; wings primrose. H. 79 SWEET “PEAS WP! TO) DATE SUNBEAMS, EARLIEST. (Burpee, 1904.) This might be described as a primrose ‘Mont Blanc.” The flowers are of a rich primrose color and generally borne three on a long stem. E. SUNPROOF SALOPIAN. (Burpee, 1900.) This was the finest scarlet until the in- troduction of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. H. SUNRISE.** (Vaughan, 1904.) A bright pink on primrose ground. E. SuUNSET.** (Vaughan, 1904.) Primrose striped dark rose. H. SWEET LAVENDER. (Bath, 1910.) White, marbled lavender. SyBIL ECKFORD. (Eck- ford, 1906.) Stand- ard creamy buff with slight pink or apri- cot,. large) sopen, creamy wings. E. THE Bripe.* (Lynch, 1897.) White self. Sri: THe Farry.** (John- EARLIEST SUNBEAMS. son, 1907.) Laven- Early-flowering type. der and white on same stem. Tue Queen. (Eckford, 1886.) Rosy pink, reflexing stand- ard, shaded with mauve. E. TriumpH. (Eckford, 1897.) Creamy white ground, suf- fused with salmon pink and tinged with carmine. E. 80 GRANDIFLORA VARIETIES TRUE LAVENDER.** (Bath, 1909.) In color same as Mrs. George Higginson, Jr. Standard notched on sides. TWEEDY SmiTH.* (Breadmore, 1906.) Standard rose pink; wings rose suffused pink. H. Unique. (Stark, 1906.) White ground, striped pale lav- ender blues Ss tH: Venus. (Eckford, 1891.) Lovely salmon buff, shaded with rosy pink. H. Vesuvius.* (Laxton, 1888.) Claret color, shading lighter at the edges... VICOMTE DE JANTZE. (Eckford, 1909.) Rose self. VIOLET QUEEN.* (Carter, 1877.) Clear violet color. E. WAVERLEY.* (Eckford,.1892.) Rosy claret standard, blue wings. H. ; Wawona.* (Burpee, 1898.) Striped lavender lilac on a white ground. H. WHITE SNAPDRAGON.* (Burpee, 1902.) White snapdragon- like flowers. WuitE Wonper. (Burpee, 1904.) The flowers are pure white and of largest size and sometimes borne six to eight on a long, stout stem, many of the flowers being double. E. XENOPHON. (Morse-Burpee, 1912.) This is a double stand- ard form of Phenomenal. YELLOW HAMMER.** (Breadmore, 1909.) Sulphur yellow. ZARINA.* (Hemus, 1908.) A pearl pink self, being an ex- panded form of Queen of Spain. E. ZERO.** (Hemus, 1907.) An early pure white. E. Zoe.** (Biffen-Unwin, 1906.) A clear, shining blue. Sim- ilar to Mid Blue... E. SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE CUPID SWEET PEAS This distinct type of dwarf Sweet Peas was intro- duced by W. ATLEE BurPEE & Co. in 1896 and does well in dry seasons and on soils which become hard during hot weather. The plants are of low, spreading habit, with dense green foliage, and attain a height of from six to nine inches.. The plants root deeply and flower most freely in hot, dry seasons. They are also adapted for pot culture, but in growing them the foliage should never be watered; always water round or between the plants. A peculiarity about the Cupids is that they are quite devoid of fragrance. At one time there was listed fully twenty varieties, but now only the following are offered by us: Pink CupipD Waite Cupip Mixep Cupip BURPEE’S BUSH SWEET PEAS The plants are semi-erect, fifteen to eighteen inches high when in full flower, but branching freely so that the close bushes are frequently fifteen inches and more in diameter, composed of short erect branches with abundant light-green foliage. The tendrils at ends of the leaves clasp themselves closely to the adjoining branches, so that the whole plant is held quite erect though sufficiently open to admit of a freer circulation of air than in the low compact form of the Cupid type. As these have not met with the success anticipated, they have been discarded. We understand in some parts of England florists are growing these for cutting with larger part of foliage. 82 ™ TREEEISES For those who prefer a trellis, we give illustrations of four of the most practical, such as have given entire satisfaction at FORDHOOK FARMS. | in AM Ny —S=—=4 [tag cre aks BE, Make supports of com- mon furring strips, also top rail. Set supports eight feet — —— ad [ea ‘or Sys — 4 eucs 7 apart. For horizontal wires use No. 16 A i iE Hi galvanized. Avoid knotty lumber. Run af y, 7 wires from every dot, twenty-six in all. iA Whi Z Height above ground six feet, and te bid ; - bia twelve inches wide. 84 TREEEISES LL SEESESEL L _ L»™LW@ “iD ==> Set the supports eight | feet apart. For horizontal i wires use about No. 16 gal- vanized. Have the lower wires come just outside the double row of vines. Make supports and top rail of ; pine or spruce one and a quarter by two and a quarter inches. Height above eround six feet, and twelve inches wide at base. 85 SWEET PEAS UP TO DATE Or.S 2 eee SA tA A 44 4'44'S,4'4,4'4,4'4,4' & “A. & rl. ° . . : é This trellis is made of part twine. It has three- inch-square posts, and an upper and lower frame of furring strips. At each end are two perpendicular wires of No. y y 10 galvanized, and running lengthwise are two horizontal wires of the same. The diamond work can be made of strong twine, and should be fastened both at the middle wire and top and bottom strips. Have the rows of vines come inside. Set posts eight feet apart. One foot is enough for width. >) t ok Ns a 4 <= f ie. — . 8 i 86 TCE LEISES 4 aU DSLKE Cs I ae a AI = Ss A. Made of coarse meshed a, M4 poultry wire. It can sometimes be bought with seven inch mesh. Posts three-inch-square stuff, and top and bottom rails as per cut. Set posts ten feet apart. Height six feet. It is well to run three horizontal wires on each side about six inches out to hold the mass of vines where they fail to fasten securely. 87 FOUR. DON ise Don't expect Sweet Peas to thrive in soil too poor for any other culture, or in a sunless location. They need, as nearly as possible, a free deep loam, mod- erately rich and freely cultivated. Don’t sow too shallow. Plant the seed not less than two inches deep, and when the plants are two or three inches high draw the soil up to them in ridge form. Don’t overfeed. With a view to obtaining vigor- ous growth and profusion of bloom, bone, in some form, is the best fertilizer. Nitrate of soda will do for a ““hurry-up” stimulant, should such be needed; but use it sparingly. Don't gather the blooms grudgingly. The more you cut the longer the vine will continue to flower. Remember, when they go to seed Sweet Peas will cease flowering. 88 Burpee’s New Annual ‘‘The Leading American Seed Catalog”’ A bright book, published January Ist of each year, is mailed FREE to all who write for it. 35> If you have not received it for the current year, or need a copy for a friend, please apply either by letter or on a postal card. It tells the plain truth about Seeds, including rare Novelties which cannot be had else- where. Beautiful colored plates and illustrations from nature. Gives information of real value to all who would raise the choicest Vegetables and most beauti- ful Flowers. Our Aim is to supply not only the ‘‘ Best Seeds that Grow,”’ but to help you in an intelligent selection of varieties and also in their successful culture. >> It will pay to read the Cultural Leaflets offered in BURPEE’S ANNUAL. Burpee’s “Blue List” Our Wholesale Price-List of Seeds in Larger Quantities is mailed free on application to Market Gardeners and Florists hould write at f If You Plant for Profit yor qaviesie List BUL we cannot send it to private planters, even if requested to do so. A Useful New Feature it Burpee’s “ BLUE LIST” ‘that will be of special interest to growers who plant for profit is the “‘ plain talks’’ we give in every department, as to just the best varieties for different purposes. Shall we mail you ONE or BOTH Catalogs? W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO. Seed Growers Philadelphia, Penna. Spencer Sweet Pea, LIBRARY OF CONGRESS AU @@@ 924 O97 4