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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

A SYSTEM

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HORSE TRAINING

IMPROVEMENT ON THE RAREY METHOD

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PRINTED AT PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.,
1884.

CopPyriGgHt, 1884,

By JOHN GRACE.

PREFACH.

The author of this work presents a new system for training
unbroken, badly broken, and vicious horses. It embraces a
theory and practice, the results of an experience of twenty-five
years in California in training horses for the saddle and har-
ness ; and is offered as a valuable assistant to those who feel an
interest in the proper education of this noble servant of man—
the Horse.

The author also feels it a duty he owes to those who try
this system, to lay before them some improved appliances—the
_ results of a long practice and study.

JOHN GRACE.

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The Grace system of Horse Tratning.—An Lm-
provement on the Rarey Method.

ComMMON-SENSE METHOD oF TRAINING A VICIOUS OR BADLY-
TRAINED HorRSE.

See that the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon
the horse is unoccupied by any thing which might distract his
attention,—either persons, animals or fowls,—and that he is
placed therein as quietly as possible.

First, place a halter over his neck and halter-break him.

As this operation is often dangerous to both horse and
trainer, first provide against accident to yourself; second, secure
your horse against the possibility of injury ; and, third, accom-
plish the object in the quickest time possible, to render the
lesson a permanent one.

Having these rules in view, proceed as follows:

Prepare a stick about one inch in diameter and about ten
feet long, with two wooden pins run through it—one about an
‘inch from one end, the other seven inches therefrom and ex-
tending through two inches on either side. Hang the running
noose of a common rope halter, twelve feet in length, upon the
small pins and hold the other end in the hand.

Now to place the halter over the horse’s head advantage
must be taken of his natural curiosity by extending the hang-
ing noose toward him; he may be alarmed at first, but if it is
gently moved, the horse will soon reach his nose toward it and
quite likely touch it. When he begins to smell the halter hold
the stick pretty well up over his head, and while the animal’s
attention is attracted by the swinging noose gently pass it over

6

his ears, and turning the stick half around drop the rope from
the pins upon his neck. This will cause the horse to start
back, but by holding firmly upon the halter, the noose will be
drawn fast.

Now lay the stick aside, and proceed to teach him the use of
the halter. Take a position about opposite the shoulder, still
keeping off at a distance, give him a sharp pull toward you,
sufficient to move him, immediately slackening the pull. The
object in doing this is to cause the animal to feel your power
to move him, and by slackening the pull you do not give him
time to resist, which, if the pull should be steady, he will do
even to the extent of throwing himself down, a matter to be
always avoided. This should be repeated a number of times,
until the disposition to resist seems to grow weaker. You will
then perform the operation upon the other side, and alternately
from side to side (always avoiding a forward pull), and con-
tinue the shoré pulls until the horse either moves readily or be-
comes stubborn. The reason for working upon both sides is,
that in this, as well as in all other matters which you attempt
to instruct the horse, there are two sides to teach. What he
learns to do from one side he must leara on the other side, in
order to have a complete understanding of what is required
of him. The reason for avoiding a forward pull is, that you
can not easily move the horse in that direction; and as he ~
learns from your acts, you should not attempt to do anything
which you are not reasonably sure of succeeding in.

If the horse appears to be of a yielding disposition, you will
now gradually shorten your hold upon the halter, as you pull
from side to side, being watchful to avoid the possibility of his
striking or kicking you, when you com3 within reach of his
head, gently put forth your hand and allow him to examine it
with his nose—for in this way all horses test the danger or.
harmlessness of strange objects.

As he becomes accustomed to your presence, proceed to care-
fully caress him with the hand, gently touching his face and

ti

forehead, gradually extending the hand down his nose, farther
and farther until he beccmes calm. Then quietly tie a knot
through the noose, so that it can not slip, leaving it quite loose.
Up to this point no undue resistance on his part has been
called out.

When it can safely be done change the rope to a strap
halter. Repeat the pulling operation, being careful to get a
side pull. As you pass in front approach and caress him, en-
couraging him to step off willingly without the pull. Should
the horse be stubborn and refuse to move take hold of the
halter-strap with your left Land abcut a foot from the head
and move the right hand gently down his rump, seize the tail,
and give him a few sharp turns around, pulling the head
towards you. To start him and give celerity to his movement
administer an occasional blow with the top of your foot across
the buttock. (See Ligure 1.)

In what way turning the horse in the manner described
affects his will and disposition I leave professors of science
to determine and pronounce. I well know from long experience
the effect is magical and permanent.

That this method of affecting the disposition of the horse is
a great improvement upon the Rarey system becomes evident
on reflection. For by the one method the horse with his fore
legs hampered exhausts himself by violent and prolonged
plunges often lasting over an hour and becomes passive simply
because he is exhausted. By my method the will of the horse
is taken possession of and his disposition changed by a few
moderate efforts of his trainer lasting a few seconds each. The
apparent difficulty of turning a horse in this. way, vanishes
upon trial. Buta mere novice in training having a big horse
on his hands should proceed to bit the horse and then adopt
the plans described on page 17. This turning movement is
the basis of my system and has the most wonderful effect in
securing submission.

Having given the horse a few turns then proceed with

8

pulling as before. If the horse remains stubborn, repeat
the operation of turning him twice or three times. By this
time he will probably appear to brighten up and show signs of
being willing to step as you wish him. If he should not, take a
riding whip in your right hand, holding the halter-strap with
the left, and standing by his side, hold the whip over his back
and touch him gently on the offside hip, at the same moment
giving a gentle side pull upon the halter. (See Figure 2.) If
this starts him, caress him and then repeat the operation. If
he does not start nor show signs of moving, caress him, give
him a kind look and word, and leave him a few moments be-
fore proceeding, allowing him to get quiet if he is angered or
frightened. By kindness and patience alone is he to be asswred
that no injury is intended.

So soon as he is quiet proceed again as before. As soon as
he steps readily at a slight side pull throw the halter-strap
over the neck, and let him go for half an hour. This will be
the first lesson.

Repeat this lesson, and as soon as he becomes _ perfectly
accustomed to obey the side pull, commence teaching him to
obey the forward pull, by gently pulling him straight ahead.
If he leads, no matter how little, caress him and repeat, but be
careful and not pull too hard. If he does not move with a
reasonable pull, give him two or three of the short side pulls
and try again. Be sure not to give a determined pull in front,
for it will not succeed, and will only teach the horse your weak-
ness, and by inflicting pain upon him teach him to pull at the
halter—/is natural movement being in a direction opposite that
which causes him pain.

To Hitco an UNBROKEN HORSE IN THE STALL.

A common one-horse stall should be prepared, by having a
hole bored in each side of the rear end post of the stall, to put
a pole through, or staples driven in to tie a rope or strap across
at about the height where the breeching would come on the

e

horse if harnessed. Lead him in to the stall and put up the
_ pole or strap before he is tied. The rear obstruction is to pre-
vent him from backing so far as to pull on the halter, hurting
his head with the halter, and pulling harder to avoid the hurt.
In removing him from the stall, be sure and untie the halter
before loosing the obstruction in the rear, and for the first few
days be careful not to hitch the horse where he can have a
chance to pull.

By observing these rules for a few days there is no danger
that the horse will ever become a halter puller. Bear in mind
that during the entire process of handling the horse it is most
necessary to speak to him in a mild manner, to quiet his fears
and familiarize him with your voice. Never speak sharp or
loud, but gently and firmly.

For instance, in the side pulls, say: “CoME HERE, sIR;”
this kept up continually will eventually teach the horse to come
to you on being spoken to in these words.

To GET THE HoRSE USED TO THE Birt.

Place on the horse an ordinary head-stall with joint bit,
without check strap or reins. Frequently replace it, allowing
it to remain on only a short time. By this means he becomes
used to the bit and to bitting. This is better than the way so
often adopted of putting on the bitting bridle at once. Ina
day or two the horse is ready for the bitting bridle.

Prepare a well-padded leather girth with three iron loops
firmly riveted thereon—one at the center on the back, and
one on each side. A crupper should be attached to this girth,
the crotch strap of which should be about six inches long and
its entire length about twelve inches. One end of the slip
strap should be buckled to the crupper, the other end to a two-
inch ring, lying flat upon the haunch. To this latter ring is
buckled a strap which runs along the back through the iron
loop on top of the girth, and has an upright ring on the end, to
which is to be attached the check rein. This strap is double,

10

so that its length may be altered to meet the check rein. To
the crupper ring on the haunch attach two short straps (one on
each side of the back-strap referred to) about eight inches long,
with a buckle on each end. Use a common head-stall with gag
runners of leather, placed well up toward the ears and with a
large joint bit; the throat latch to be made large and buckle
under the gag runners; the side straps to be made about five
feet long, with a snap on one end and holes for the buckle
tongue on the other end. These straps are to be fastened by
the snap to the bit and then passed through the side loops on
the girth, and to be buckled to the short straps fastened to the
ring on the haunch. (See Migure 3.) Having this harness
ready, then proceed to

Bittinc THE Horst,

taking care not to buckle any of the straps too tight at first, so
as not to give pain or even annoy the animal. Many horses
have been ruined by carelessness in this particular, especially
by having the throat latch too tight. When loose they more
readily yield to the side reins. The degree of checking up
should be governed by the length and form of the neck and
shoulders. The side straps should be buckled just sufficiently
to impose restraint. As soon as the horse shows a disposition
to yield, the bridle should be removed or the check or side- ~
strap loosened, and within at least fifteen minutes from the
time it was first put on. The oftener it is taken off and re-
placed for the first four days the better, not however remoy-
ing it while the horse is sulky and refuses to move his head.
The lesson to be taught him is that he cannot be loosened
from the restraint while he is resisting.

This will prove useful in all further dealings with the animal.

RIDING THE HORSE.

This should be done as soon as he is well bridle-broken.
Begin the lesson in a small enclosure. Use a common riding

11

bridle without girth or martingale. Tie the reins together on
top of the neck, tight enough to check him very little. Stand
on the near side near the shoulder, and place the loop strap
across the withers near where the reins lie.

Quietly reach under in front and caress the fore-legs, and
as soon as he is sufficiently quiet, buckle the loop around the
pastern of the off fore foot. If he is restive and prevents this
or shows signs of striking or kicking, take him by the bridle
‘and tail, the left hand well up to the head, and whirl him
around three times or more (see Figure 1); and while he is dis-
concerted by this movement fasten the strap. Then take hold
of the near rein within about four inches of the head, and
with the right hand draw upon the strap so as to lift the foot
clear from the ground, at the same time pulling on the rein
toward you quite firmly, until he has made two or three hops
on three legs.

The object to be gained by this is first, to teach the horse
that he is not to be hurt and that he cannot get away. This
tends to prevent him from plunging when an attempt is made
to ride him; second, by pulling the strap across his back it ac-
customes him to bear the weight there; third, it prevents him
from throwing himself over backwards. Do this every few
minutes for half an hour. Next take a shorter hold on the
strap, draw the foot up, passing your right arm well over his
back, and with the left hand take hold of the near rein and
mane near the withers, and then make a motion of mounting.
Do this until the horse becomes accustomed to the positions
and movements. Then quietly mount him, the foot being still

held up. (See Figure 4.)

To Mount THE Horsk.

Take hold of the mane with your left hand, placing the right
hand upon the back, then springing lightly raise yourself upon
your wrists until the waist reaches the hight of the horse’s
withers, lean forward and throw the right leg over his back.

12

This lesson with the foot-strap and of mounting should be .
repeated until the horse is accustomed to your presence on his
back and your legs against his sides.

There is no danger that he will fall down while the foot is
up, as might be supposed. When it is determined to start him
forward, keep a strong hold of the foot-strap till the knot in ©
the reins is untied, and then let down the foot, commence to
turn him from side to side and urge him forward. If he is un-
willing to start, use a whip, holding it in the same hand with °
which you hold the foot-strap, and gently touch him with it on
the off hind leg, gradually increasing the blows until he starts,
at the same time loosing the rains. In turning him pull upon
only one rein at a time, otherwise the horse will be apt to run
backward, sideways and otherwise, and act awkwardly. Ride
him only a hundred yards the first time. Be decided but
gentle mm mounting and im all your dealings with the horse.

THE BREAKING BRIDLE.

This is a snaffle joint-bit with rings at each end, but no bars
—the shorter the bit the better.

The bit has two loose rings upon the mouth piece. (See
Figure 5.) Attach the bit to a common bridle in the usual
manner. A strap across the nose just above the nostril, fast- -
ened through the two loose rings, draws it moderately tight.
Attach a strap to the browband, bring it down to the center of
the face and attach it to the strap over the nose to prevent it
slipping down. ‘Take a piece of 2 inch rope about 8 feet in
length, tie one end to the near-side ring of the bit, pass the
other end under the jaw through the offside ring of the bit,
then bring the rope over the neck from the off-side to the near-
side, placing it where the collar usually comes, pass it down
the near-side and through over that portion of the rope which is
between the two bit rings under the jaw and make fast. Now
as you tighten upon the rope you perceive that the two loose

13

rings will come together, and will consequently press tightly
upon the cheek.

The effect upon the horse is instantaneous and irresistible.
This bit is safe and reliable, and will control the most vicious
horse.

Tue Lone Foot Strap

is in two parts, and that for the pastern is made of two pieces.
There is first an inner strap of soft leather, an inch and a half
wide, ten inches long, with the inside edges shaved thin to
avoid chafing. Then an outer strap of firm leather, fifteen
inches long and one inch wide, on one end of which place a
buckle and loop with a lap of two inches on the under side, on
the other end punch holes for the buckle tongue. The last
named strap is stitched on the outside of the wider one, with
one end extended an inch beyond the buckle, having the loop
pretty close to the buckle. A half ring or D is run over the
outer strap two inches from the buckle. This is buckled
around the fore foot just below the fetlock. A strap or web-
bing, fifteen feet in length, fastened in the ring, completes the
long foot-strap.

How To HANDLE THE FEET oF A HorRSE WHICH HAS NEVER
BEEN SHOD.

*‘ After breaking the horse to lead well, caress and rub him on
the shoulders as at first, and as soon as he will bear, work
down the withers and leg; then lift lightly on the foot; if it is
submitted to, rub it quickly and smoothly a few seconds, then
put it down and take it again, and so continue until you can
handle the foot as you please.

“The main point for you to consider is, that you are to make
the horse understand that you will not hurt him, and to do
this you must be gentle. Now place your hand on the
shoulder and run it back over the side and hips softly and
quickly; handle every part thoroughly as you work along
towards the leg, and as the horse will bear, work the hands
around the leg until you reach the foot. If there is no resist-

14

ance after, lift up a little, and if there is no resistance after
letting it down, rub gently a little more; repeat each time, lift-
ing it up a little higher, until you can take it up and handle it
just as you please. Should he, however, resist, and jerk his
foot away from you, you must resort to means to make him
understand that resistance is out of the question.”

SHOEING THE HORSE.

To prepare a horse for shoeing the first time, tie the “long
foot-strap” around the neck, pass it along the near side, be-
tween the hind legs, and bringing it around the near hind leg
close up to the body, pass it under the strap around the neck,
then draw upon the strap, holding him meanwhile by the
bridle. The horse will probably be nervous at the pull and
you will loosen it and caress him over the face and neck, gradu-
ally tightening at each successive pull, using no words but
gentle ones, and not saying “‘whoa.” When he has become
accustomed to it, lower the strap to a point just above the
hock, and gradually pull upon the strap until you lift the leg,
at the same time pulling upon the bridle with a side or back
pull to prevent his stepping forward. When you have thus
succeeded in easily lifting the leg pretty well up, you will find
that you can take it up with your hand and hold it. The same
process must of course be gone through with on the other leg,
and after about ten lessons your horse is ready to go to the
blacksmith. The rule has usually been to take the horse to the
blacksmith first, but he is more than apt to get bad habits by
being forced into position to be shod, and probably gets pounded
to his injury if the blacksmith’s stock of patience is not very
large. Shoeing should always be done as the feet grow tender,
and if quite young, shoe very often.

_ Horses should be shod extremly light for a few times.

Never turn out your horse to pasture without first removing

his shoes.

Hints Asout THE Horse.
In teaching the horse words, always accompany the words

15

with an explanatory act—something which will call his atten-
tion to the connection between the word and the act; for
instance, in saying “ Whoa,” always pull upon the reins or foot
strap. Never use words, either in or out of the stable, except
for a purpose. Such words as ‘‘Stand around,” ‘‘Take care,”
etc., are proper to be used when occasion requires, but you
should not say ‘ Whoa,” when you mean “Take care,” in
approaching the horse; nor ‘Whoa, back,” when you mean
either one or the other. It is well known that it is difficult
for a person to control himself in this particular. We there-
fore strongly impress its importance upon those having to deal
with horses.

“Man is so dependent upon the use of horses, and their value
and safety is so much regulated by their good character and
obedience to control, that it is necessary that their education
and government should be dictated by reason and humanity.

“The low order of his understanding and his extreme strength
make him more lable to become both vicious and uncon-
trollable. Unable to comprehend the object of restraint,
confused and excited by bad treatment, he is prompted to get
away at all hazards.

“The horse when frightened strives to avoid the cause of
danger, whether real or imaginary. The more unexpected, the
greater and more lasting the sense of danger, to a degree that
may act so powerfully upon the nervous system as to fix an
. Impression of fear which it is difficult to overcome. Resistance
once excited, the difficulty of successful restraint is increased ;
the horse learning the possibility of resisting control, the. dis-
position becomes so strong it at once becomes a habit to persist
in, and all the great energies of the animal are brought into
requisition, No matter what the habit, this peculiarity of
persistence is evinced when once learned. A weak halter broken
once or twice, the horse will strive to pull loose at all hazards,
when and where hitched, the foot is pulled away when
attempted to be shod, and the habit becomes confirmed. Some
minor part of the harness or wagon breaking, fear stimulates
resistance, and once freeing himself, the horse will ever after-
wards strive to get away under like circumstances. The
Same may be said of a vicious disposition. A stallion once

16

encouraged to bite, and permitted to do so, leads to an eager
disposition to bite ever afterwards.

“Blended with the skill of showing and teaching the horse a
knowledge of what is required, is that of forcing obedience.
This was at first done by the rudest of coercive measures.

“The effects of rude treatment are particularly noticeable on
horses of a sensitive, ambitious character. Such either fret or
are dangerous, when subject to the management of an impul-
sive, irritable groom, though extremely docile and safe to a
careful, patient person.

“Tf horses be subjected to skillful and prudent management
they will easily be made docile and controllable. On the other
hand, subjected to rude, imprudent treatment, they are at once
liable to become unreliable, hostile, and impulsive brutes.

“The generous reward of this skill should be an incentive to
every one to acquire a correct knowledge of this duty. That
there is great loss, and lamentable accidents caused almost
daily in every neighborhood from the use of horses that are
dangerously vicious and unmanageable, cannot be questioned.
One horse will run away if given the least freedom. Another
is liable to kick himself clear from the wagon should a strap
dangle against the flanks, the breeching break, or anything
unusual occur to excite his fears.

“One horse will balk. Another goes when and where he
pleases. Another can scarcely be harnessed with safety.
Another will kick if the rein touches the hip, or is caught
under the tail. One will not stand while being mounted, or
while getting into the carriage. Another will not back. Others
are frightened, and sheer and jump at a stone, stump, or a white
cow. One horse cannot be driven by a load of hay, a railroad
track, etc., while to others an umbrella, buffalo robe, or even
a bit of white paper are terrible objects of fear. There are
but very few even of the horses that are considered well
broken, that have not some habit that makes them unpleasant,
or greatly lessons their usefulness and value.

‘Well broken horses are a necessity demanded by the pro-
gress and intelligence of the age.

“They must be taught or shown that “man is master,” that
what he desires to do with them he can do.

‘‘Nothing so completely subdues him as to convince him that
he cannot do as he pleases, but that he must submit to the
master. Having been thoroughly convinced that he is under

Bi

control, that his movements are entirely under control, he gives
up.
‘Never let the horse perceive that you are angry; try patient-
ly to subdue the animal, but never by beating, and particularly
by striking upon or about the head. He who first aspires to
govern must first govern himself. Nothing is more fatal than
outbursts of passion and rage. If you feel your temper get-
ting the best of you, leave the task for the time, or you will
only still more enrage, frighten, and bewilder the horse, and so
render hopeless the effort to control the animal.”

Having bitted the horse, and accustomed him to the bridle,
it is a good time to fully subject him, if large, vicious, or
nervous, to the subduing effects of turning.

As remarked, page 7, it may be undesirable for a small
trainer to try to turn this kind of a horse with the halter
and tail hold. But with the bridle and the girth, above
described, the matter is very simple.

Through the rings of the bridle bit run a rope, knotted at the
end so that it will not slip through. Pass the free end of
the rope through the off loop of the girth; stand close by
the near shoulder of the horse, and pull slightly on the rope
till the horse turns his head in that direction, then draw his
head close and hold it firmly to his side. He will immediately
commence turning, pivoting on his fore feet. After two or
three revolutions he should be given his head and then the
_ special instructions in hand can be proceeded with.

In this manner the most obstreperous horse can generally,
in one or two minutes, be compelled to lie down, and will then
be as passive as if completely exhausted after an hour of the
Rarey method of throwing.

“The operation must be repeated from ten to twenty times, or
until the horse seems entirely disgusted with the controversy.
This operation, if properly conducted, will have resulted in the
obtaining control of the horse and in his willingness to be
accommodating at least.”

18

How to Turow A Horse.

The easiest and most effectual method of throwing a horse is
to strap up the near fore-foot, put on a surcingle with a ring
fastened to the top of it, tie a half-inch rope around his neck
halterwise, placed up near the throat latch with the knot on
the near-side of the face, pass the rope in the mouth and bring
it along his neck on the offside, then pass it through the ring
in top of the surcingle on the back, standing off on the near-
side about six or eight feet from the horse and opposite the
near hind-leg, keeping the rope sufficiently tight to prevent him
from disengaging it from his mouth. Pull carefully until he
yields his head a little to the offside, then give a sharp, strong
continuous pull until the horse falls, which will occupy from
one to five seconds. As he goes down, laying on the near-side,
keep the rope tightened and he cannot get up. By repeating
this a few times the horse will le down from a very slight
pull on the rope.

He can be thrown on either side by this process with perfect
safety.

One great advantage of throwing cavalry horses will be
found in this, that after a few lessons a slight turning movement
of the horse to the right will induce him to quietly lie down:
then by tying up one foot with the hobble he cannot rise.
Thus, when a troop is dismounted to fight, the horses can be
sheltered and left with a few men to guard them instead of
one-fourth of the command being retaining away as horse-
holders from the fighting line.

ANOTHER PLAN,

and, in some respects, a better one, especially when it is desira-
ble to tie the feet of the horse when down, is to take about a
four-inch ring, sew to it two straps, one about three feet in
length, two and a half inches wide, with a double-tongue
buckle sewed to the end, and the other about one foot long, two
and a half inches wide, with holes punched therein for the

1

buckle tongue. Then take a rope about twenty feet long and
lap the center on the ring, strap up the near fore-leg of the
horse and place on him a strong bridle with the check
pieces tolerably short. Buckle the wide strap around the neck
with the ring upon the breast, pass the rope between the fore-
legs and out between the hind-legs, bringing the ends of the .
rope again forward on the out-side of each hind-leg above the
gambrel, then, passing the ends on the out-side of the fore-legs,
put them through the ring from the inside. Have an assistant
take hold of each rope, prepared to pull as you say “ready,”
which will be as soon as you slip the rope below the gambrel
joint on both legs. Pull the offside bridle rein as he falls,
which he will on the near-side. The person holding the near-
side rope will keep it taut.

As you stand by the horse’s shoulder, reach over and take
the off-side rope—the person releasing it kneeling down and
taking the horse’s head between his knees and hold it with his
nose upward. With the off-side rope take a half hitch over his
off hind-foot and bring down his off fore-foot, take a half hitch
on that and another one on the hind-foot, and wind this rope
once around the one between the two feet.

This done, receive the near-side rope and make two half
hitches over the near hind-foot. Take a strap already prepared,
about three inches wide and about three feet long, with a D
fastened to each end, and with an inch strap about a foot from
each end and three feet in length, so prepared with a buckle as
to be made shorter or longer as the case may require, to be
used as a crouper, and tie the strap through the D to the off
foot with the end of the rope.

Go behind the horse, take hold of the tail between the small
strap and wide one, and pull the latter as far under the horse
as possible, then roll him half over, pull the strap up to just
beyond the point of the hips, pass the rope on the near-side
through the D of the strap and, drawing the near-legs down
close to the side, tie it.

20

Keep him on his back during this operation. °

Be careful and observe the instructions closely, as a failure
to do every portion of the work properly may cause you to be
injured.

The operator must exercise judgment, governing himself by
the location of the operation.

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

The sounds and sights which the military horse must be
especially instructed to disregard, and the special faults of
which he must be corrected as soon as possible, are:

lst.—The discharge of cannon and fire-arms, especially of the
carbine and pistol, in close proximity to his ears.

2d.—Martial music, especially the sudden bursts of music
from a band.

3d.—The flitting of an object suddenly before him, like a
bundle of paper or rolling weeds borne by the wind across the
road.

4th.—A mound of fresh earth, like a new grave.

5th.—A dummy man to represent one dead.

6th.—The movement of the saber or carbine about the
horse’s head when held in the hand when mounted, or when
leading him.

7th.—Sudden change in the appearance of an object, like
the flaunting of a blanket or the opening of an umbrella.

8th.—Balking and bucking and turning suddenly while
mounting. :

In the instruction of the horse to cure him of his fear of
any of these sights, and to stop him from committing the
faults referred to, resort must be had to the special treat-
ment herein prescribed in each case, in connection with the
turning movement.

EFFECTS OF FEAR AND How To REMOVE THE CAUSES.

To the excitement and impulse of resistance, induced by

21

fear, may be attributed directly or indirectly nearly all bad
habits of the horse. Repeated and continued success in con-
trolling the horse teaches him confidence in the trainer or rider,
and hence removes his fear of any sight or sound; while failure
weakens and destroys the trainer’s influence and increases the
horse’s disposition to resist and confirms his faults.

_ Beating a drum suddenly near a horse unaccustomed to the
sound, will in almost every instance induce fear, and if suc-
cessful in getting away from the noise and from the control of
the rider, he will ever afterwards be frightened at the sound of
a drum or any other loud rattling noise.

To reconcile the horse to this sound or to the report of fire-
arms, or to a sudden apparition like opening of an umbrella,
ete., first place him under control of the breaking bridle and
adjust the long foot strap. Lead him towards an assistant who
has a drum, and up to it if possible, so that he can smell and
examine it. If he will not go, draw up his fore-leg and then
direct the assistant to approach him gradually till the matter
in hand is placed against his nose, rubbed against his neck and
body. The assistant should then retire and repeat the same
operation several times. When the horse submits to this
quietly he should then be allowed to hear the drum faintly
rattle at some distance, then closer and louder. If he becomes
restive, the beating should cease till the instrument is brought
to him that he may smell and touch it. This to be continued
till it can be beaten all around him. |

To accustom him to the report of the pistol, caps must be first
fired at some distance, then small charges of powder, with the
foot raised, till finally with foot on the ground he will permit
it fired close on each side and over his back.

To a spirited horse the movement of the carbine and sabre
in men’s hands, when he is led or when mounted, is annoying.
In one case he holds back, in the other he starts and jumps,
while the sudden shaking of a blanket or overcoat, or opening
of an umbrella for the first time is generally appalling. As

22

in case of the drum, these things must first be brought to him,
and rubbed against his nose and body.

Then when his leg is raised take for instance the umbrella
and open it slightly. If he starts and shows great fear it
should be closed and again rubbed gently against his nose, the
trainer all the time looking at him with a kind expression and
speaking to him in an encouraging tone of voice. Then by
degrees, after a few lessons, the umbrella can be spread open
suddenly and passed all about his head without creating the
least disquietude. So, too, the sabre and carbine may be
flourished around his head without causing him to move aside
or pull back.

Success in overcoming the too nervous sensibility of the
horse, is attained by tact in preventing him from becoming
frightened from any cause. Any inanimate object, as a news-
paper or bundle of reeds, suddenly crossing the path of the
horse, blown by the wind, usually produces such dismay as to
put him beyond the control of the rider. To accustom him to
such an object, have a bundle of papers, in an open space, to
which attach a long string. First, take the horse as near the
bundle as possible; then when no amount of encouragement
will get him nearer, draw up his leg, and have an assistant
drag the paper to him very slowly at first till he smells them
and becomes indifferent; then, from behind some screen, drag
them suddenly into view near him. If he becomes seriously
frightened, draw up his leg till the bundle is brought up to
him, that he may see what it is, ete Repeat this till all fear
disappears.

To accustom the horse to a new-made grave or a dead per-
son, two objects which many horses will not approach, and
which cannot be made to approach him, have a mound a fresh
earth thrown up and a dummy man prepared. Lead the horse
to them, and when he cannot be encouraged to approach nearer,
give him a few turns around and try again.

By these means and a little patience and encouragement

23

these objects should cease to create alarm after a lesson of
twenty minutes.

The management of balking and bucking horses is after the
same manner.

Horses BAULKING.

“This is the most aggravating of all the habits to which the
horse is subject; it tries the patience of man to the utmost;
yet by patience and perseverance, with proper management,
even this habit can be broken up. It is rarely that we find a
baulky horse which is not a good one. They are usually very
high spirited, quick of comprehension and of a strong nervous
temperament. They resist because we have failed to make
them understand what we require of them. Particularly is this
the case with young animals. To whip under such circum-
stances only excites them to more determined resistance. On
the first attempt of your horse to baulk dismount, pat him upon
the neck, examine him carefully, first upon one side, then upon
the other, speaking encouragingly to the animal while doing
so; then mount and give him the rein; generally he will obey ; ;
if he refuses to do so dismount : then take him by the head
and tail, reel him until he is almost ready to fall; this rarely
fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them and they start at
the word.

“By repeating the same operations every day for a week,
usually breaks up this most perplexing habit thoroughly and
permanently.”

To correct these faults requires patient adroitness as well
as the most convincing power of control. With the breaking
bridle give the horse a few short pulls right and left, sharp and
lively; then after a brief rest tie the hair of the tail in a hard
knot, and parting the hair above the knot, pass the bridle rein
through, draw it short and tie in a half hitch. This will bring
the head around towards the tail and compel the horse when
he moves to travel in a circle. If the horse should not move
fast enough urge him behind with the whip, regulating his
efforts. so as to keep him moving just fast enough not to fall
down. He should be circled in this way from five to ten -

24

minutes. As soon as the rein is untied from the tail seize the
breaking bridle and pull up on it right and left five or six
times. There should be an interval of a few hours between
lessons, and the lessons should be repeated two or three times
for several days. There need be no fear of training the mouth
too hard, but do not make it sore. After this discipline bring
the part of the bridle rope, that goes over the neck, up to the
ears, step a little sideways and forward, and give a sharp pull.
If the horse moves forward, loosen the rope and the bridle and
caress him. Repeat this till he moves forward very readily
when pulled upon.

Now put on the saddle and long foot strap, and mount him.
If he shows any signs of resistance, either by balking or buck-
ing, dismount and repeit the turning movement. Very soon
all attempts to balk er buck will cease.

‘Whatever may be the bad habit of your horse, it is a very
good plan to give him a regular course of training, and by
throwing a horse down and handling him just as you please
while down, demonstrates to the understanding of the animal
that it is worse than useless to try to resist control. It is
the best way ever found to handle nervous horses. Handle
gently while down and when they find they are not hurt, they
get over their fear, and will allow you to do with them as you
like any where.”

“To teach a horse to lie down quickly you must lay him down
a few times with the rope and strap, as described, page 18.
When down treat your horse with great attention and kindness.
After putting him down a few times in this way he will usually
lie down in a short time by taking up one foot and holding it
in your hand, asking him to lie down; he will soon come
down. When he will come on his knees by taking his foot in
your hand, stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, “Lie
down, sir!” Then make him come down by a motion of the
hand, and finally by simply telling him to lie down.

‘‘Tn teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress and reward
him for lying down, and your horse, comprehending what you
want and finding himself paid for compliance, will soon be as
anxious to get down for the reward as you are to have him do so.”

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