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ve TEN MONTHS

AMONG

THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI,

WITH INCIDENTS OF AN

ARCTIC BOAT EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF
SIR JOHN FRANKLIN,

AS FAR AS_THE MACKENZIE RIVER, AND CAPE BATHURST.

BY LIEUT. W. H. HOOPER, R.N.

WITH A MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.

LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.
1853.

b - LONDON: ; 7
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

ie rox =i, gE eee Frees

eee ty
Siew

TO

JOHN BARROW, Esa. F.R.S.

&e. &e. &e.
ADMIRALTY.
My pear FRIEND,

WueEN engaged in the first Arctic expedition
(H.M.S. Plover, with my esteemed friend Captain
Moore) despatched from England in search of
H.M. Discovery Ships Erebus and Terror, (under
command of the gallant Sir John Franklin,) in the
equipment of which your honoured and lamented
father bore so prominent a part, I wrote letters to
my friends relating my first impressions of scenes
and incidents encountered in a remote corner of the
globe, during a long residence amongst an almost
hitherto unknown race of people. You saw some of

these letters, expressed approval of and interest in

vl DEDICATION.

them, and suggested their being thrown together and
submitted to a wider circle for perusal. Hence the

following pages, by illness long deferred.

Not alone the strong tie of friendship induced me
to crave your permission to dedicate this book to
you, but also the knowledge that you have ever stood
foremost among those who, verbally and practically,
have evinced their conviction that it would be cruel
and would be a lasting disgrace to this country to
relinquish the search for the missing voyagers until
definitive information respecting them shall be
obtained, or the lapse of time render an assertion
of their being no longer im existence no mere

hypothesis.

On another plea also I ask you to stand sponsor
to my literary babe (and herein I feel assured I speak
for many of those who, like myself, have wandered
amid the stern and chilling regions of the North).
There can be few “ Arctic men” who will not unite
with me in earnest acknowledgment of your ever

willing aid (not the less energetic because unob-

DEDICATION. vil

trusively exerted) towards their particular welfare, as
well as to the more general furtherance of the
schemes of humanity in which they were engaged,

and the great exertions you have gone through.

You are well aware that I have always entertained
the most sanguine views with regard to the discovery
ships; and that, notwithstanding nearly eight years
have elapsed since tidings were received, I still see
no reason to despair. A mass of evidence is before
us* to show that the Polar regions abound in animal
life: the cases of four Russian sailors who spent six
years on Spitzbergen, 1743-9, and that of Sir John
Ross and party, who were four years ice-bound,
afford precedents for the existence of the party now
sought for; and when we consider moreover that
only the mere portals have yet been passed, and
scarcely the threshold entered upon of that vast
unknown region, in avy part of which it is possible
the missing voyagers may be detained, we may relieve
ourselves from fear of a charge of unreasonableness

or obstinacy in the persistence of earnest /ope that

* Wrangell, Anjou, Parry, Richardson, Petermann, &c.

Vili DEDICATION.

their families—whose sad suspense all must deeply
commiserate—their native country, and the entire
civilised world, will yet welcome with transports of
delight the return of at least a portion of the veteran
wanderers.
With sincerest regard and esteem,
I am yours faithfully,
W™. HULME HOOPER.

Lonpon, May 1, 1853.

CONTENTS.

——_ ——_

CHAPTER I.
Page
Long absence of the “Erebus” and “Terror.”—Consideration of
Contingencies, and Plans for Relief—H.M.S. “Plover,” Com-
mander Moore.—Sails for Behring’s Straits—Arrive at Sandwich
Islands.—Description of Honolulu.—Its Inhabitants.—Beautiful
Night Scene.—Departure.—Passage to Behring’s Straits—Aleutian
Islands.—Russian Discoveries.—St. Lawrence Island.—Adverse
Winds and Currents.—Tchutskoi Noss.—The Tchutski ; ee ae

CHAPTER II.

Notices of Visits to Tchutskii—Cook and Billings, &c.—Wrangell’s
Laments.—Paucity of Information.—First Communication with
Tchutski—Ludicrous Mistake respecting Sex.—Attempts at Con-
versation.—Visit the Shore.—See real Women.—Delectable Repast.
—First Theft.—Council of Officers.—Curious Hut.—Thermometer
Jack, —Gale.— Detention of Natives.— Their Feast. —Tchutski
Honour.—Move into Winter Quarters.—First Visit to Natives.—

An interesting Infant.—Funny Fiddler.—The Sheep.—The House.
—First Impressions.—The Masquerade.—The Missionary.—The
Drama . : é : - z . ; : : : Sale:

CHAPTER III.

Tuski not Tchutski—Tuski, Proper and Alien: their Difference.—
Language.—Description.—Resemblance to Chinese.—Conjectures.
—Difficulty of Discrimination.—A Trip.—Sledges. Fc —Huts.
—Furniture.—Utensils . : ; ‘ : ; : . 33

x CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

Kaygwan.— A Tuski House.— Rather too Warm.—A Relief.—A
Delusion.—Magic and Music! !—Snow Storm.—Two good Friends.
—Port Emma.—Intimacy with Natives.—Tok.—Tuski Skill and
Ingenuity.— The would-be Priest.—Constitution of Rank.—A
clever Fellow . ; : : : : j : ;

CHAPTER YV.

Welcome little Stranger.—A merry Christmas.—A Christening. —
A Visit from the Aristocracy.—An ancient, Teo.—A canny
lad, Enoch.—Miss Propriety, Meeco.—Mi-yo la Petite.—The
Diplomate, Akoull.—Belconta the Clever.—A Child of Fortune,
Metra the Slow.—Reindeer, a Tableau.—A Patriarch, Mooldooyah.
—Yaneengah the Good.—The Friend, Ahmoleen.—The Pet, Ka-
oong-ah.—A. queer fellow, Omdooyah.—Attah the Knowing .

CHAPTER VI.

Friends.— Presents.— Tuski Preferences.—A lLé-loép.—The Tuski
Dandy.—A State Visit—Curious Dances.—The Oldest Inhabitant.
—The Dead.—New Ideas.—W ootair.—A ppearances of the Country.
—A Chief’s Yarang.—The Sea : : : ‘ :

CHAPTER VII.

Mooldooyah’s Hospitality—Polygamy.—The Queen of the Yarang.—
Repudiation.—The Contrast.—Reindeer and their Flesh —Mool-
dooyah’s Music.—Return to the “ Plover.’’—Oong-wy-sac.—Distor-
tion of Past Events.—Perplexity and Perseverance.—Tidings.—
Return to the ship.

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey towards East Cape.—Arrangement of Villages.—Necessary to
travel with Dogs.—Preparations.—Deceit.—Costume for Travelling.
—Bad Weather.—Change Course.—Noowook.—A new Taste of
Fish.—Tchaytcheen.—Modes of killing Seals.—The Snow Storm.
—The Polka : : : : : F ‘

Page

48

62

80

98

eat

CONTENTS. xi

CHAPTER IX.

= Page

Woman’s Care.—The anxious Guides.—A solemn Ceremony.—Pro-
longed Misery and a new Disaster—The Dilemma.—A Cruel
Deception.—The last Night.—A glorious Discovery.—Hope and
Deliverance.—Hunger of Dogs: its Consequences.—Thirst.— Kind
Reception.—The Tuski Garrick.—The Hot Spring.—New Cookery 127

CHAPTER X.

Way to manage Natives.—The Magical Magnet.—Quit Oongwysac. —
The Deserted.—A Census.—May-tchoo-emin.—Tuski Games.—The
trial of Speed.—The Wrestlers.—A large Bear-skin.—Tuski
Bravery.—Combats and Marks.—The Greek Cross.—A Wanderer’s
Fate——A Disagreeable Check.—Useless Instruction.—A piece of
Good Luck.—Yandangah.—Ah-mo-leen.—A Tuski Gentleman.—A
Tuski Villa.—Hospitality : : : . : , : . 142

CHAPTER XI.

Vexatious Detention.—Attempts at Instruction.—Tuski Delicacy.—
Enmity Explained.—The Coat of Mail.—Yandangah.—Noonah-
mone.—Startling Information.—Farewell to Ahmoleen.—Tragic
Tidings.—Return to the “Plover” . P : : : é . 159

CHAPTER XII.

A Tuski Feast.—A Tuski Smoke.—The Ladies’ Privilege.—The
Draught.—The Tuski Plague.—A Sacred Ceremony.—The Shaman.
—Description of Boats, Rope, &e—Embroidery, Carving, &c.—
Fire-making . : ; , ; E : : : 2 » 170

CHAPTER XIII.

Matricide, a Deed of Horror.—The Bride’s Departure——A Novel
Punishment. — Snow-Blindness.— Companionship. — Refraction.—
Games.—The Cripple-—Amusements of Children.—Cutting Out.
—Caymgliche the Grateful.—The Ungrateful Stranger.—Summary 188

xil CONTENTS.

PART IL

BOAT EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER XIV.
Page

Arrive in Kotzebue Sound.—Mosquitos.—First View of Esquimaux.—
Joined by “Herald” and “Nancy Dawson.”—Midnight Sun.—
Start on a Boat Expedition.—Visit of Esquimaux.—Moor to Ice
Hummock. — Esquimaux Musicand Dancing.—Threatening Attitude
of Natives.—Burying Ground.—Anchor at Point Barrow.—Lan-
guage of Signs.—Magnetic Observations.—Deseription of Natives.
—Concert.—Oomiak.—Bury Intelligence.—Whalebone Henge.—
Part from “ Nancy Dawson.”—Mr. Shedden . ; : : « 212

CHAPTER XV.

Take to Whale-boats and Oomiak.—Return of Mr. Martin and larger
Boats to the Ship.—Dog Sledges.—Smith’s Bay.—Heavy Sea.—
Run for Shore——Repair Damages.—Birds in Numbers.—Colville
Shoals.—Critical position.—Throw over Provisions.— Point Berens.
—Amber.—Shovel Jack.—Attitude of Natives.—Mirage.—Jones’s
Islands—Esquimaux Chief fires a Musket.—Native Boats crowd
us.—Point Beechy.—Visited by Esquimaux.—Prudential Prepara-
tions.—Shovel Jack again.—Treacherous Demonstrations.—Re-
embark.—Natives follow.—Return Reef—Fire with Ball.—Con-
struct Stockade.—Marine charges with Bayonet.—Close of the
three days’ Demonstrations.—Natives depart.—Breakfast on the
Ice.—Natives reappear.— Discharge their Arrows.— Reasons for
Forbearance . “ 5 : : ; : : 2 : . 231

CONTENTS. xill

CHAPTER XVI.

Page
Lion Reef.—Seals.—Mountains.—Ducks and Divers.—Daily Routine.
—Flaxman’s Island.—Ice.—Large Drift Wood.—Bury Pemmican.
—Dog seen.—Native Huts.—Presents.—Ethnographie Distince-
tions.—European Knife.—Send up Rockets.—Native Wonder.—
Oomiaks’ mimic Manceuvres.—Esquimaux Family.—Whales.—
Herschel Island.—Wind shifts Suddenly.—Difficulties.—Calton
Point.—Esquimaux bring Fish.—Tracking.—Paradoxical Barrows.
—Land near Sabine Point.—Huts and Women.—Buy a Frock from
a Lady.—Thefts.—Compasses affected.—Approach to Mackenzie.
—Tracking up River.—Change in Vegetation.—Bear and Deer
Tracks.—Erect a Cross.—Indian Visitor.—Peel River.—Mr. Har-
disty visits us.—Proceed to Fort M‘Pherson.—Changed Phase of
Existence.—Departure of Mr. Pullen.—Annual Despatch.—Indian
Paint and Decoration.—Loucheux or Quarrellers.—Rat Indians.-—
Gluttony.—Indian Betrothals.—Forty Skins for One,—Indian

Currency.—Esquimaux and Indian Feuds —. ; A 2 . 251

CHAPTER XVII.

Horrible Esquimaux Attack.—Massacre of Loucheux.—Indian Bravery,
-—Anatomical Research.—Five Commoners make one Chief.—
Mr. Peers’ unsuccessful Mediation.—Indian instincts of Revenge.—
Indian Supplies——Leave for Fort Norman.—Indian Guides.—
Followers dog us.—Enemy captures our Stores.—Enter Mac-
kenzie.—Guides quit us.— Dogs again.—Encamp.—Our Hut takes
Fire.—Pine Forests.—Ice-master frost-bitten—- Reach Fort Good
Hope.—Mr. Mec Beath; his kind Attentions.—Cent Sous Rapid.
—Bear River.—Burning Banks.—Reach Fort Norman.—Mr.
Me Kenzie; his Hospitality.—Salteaux’ Legend of the Deluge.—
Wolf Brothers & Co. : : : ‘ : : : : . 274

CHAPTER XVIII.

Gastronomy.—River Ice.—Trapping.—Start for Great Bear Lake.—
Cross the Mackenzie on the Ice.—Felling Trees to encamp.—
Raising the Wind.—Penetrate dense Forests——Cross Lakes.—
Cranberries, &c.—Indian Hut.—Salmon Trout.—Summary Eject-
ment.—Slave Indians.—Indian Divorce.—Selling Wives.—Cannibal
Acquaintance.—Sir J. Franklin’s Hut.—Dreadful Staryation.—
Eating an Orkney man.—Our Hut.—An airy Situation.—Occasional
House-warming.—Lots of Tin.—Fish and Fish with it—Swamp
Tea.—Aurora.—Literary Destitution.—Novel burial of a Brother-
in-law. . . - : - : - : : : . 296

xiv CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.
Page
Christmas Festivities —Parhelia—Indian Exaggeration.—A Regular
Clipper.—Sledging to Fort Norman.—Starving Indians.—Indian
Theology.—Medicine Men.—Vapour Bath.—Heating Water.—A
Drone.—Diminution of Infanticide——Making Medicine.—Pulling
a-head.—Spring sets in.—Woodpeckers.—An Indian Death.—
Return to New Fort Franklin.—Ravenous Petty Larceny.— Primi-
tive Notions.—Floods.—Doctor Rae.—Start for Fort Simpson.—
Hydrodynamic Forces.—Bears.—Indian Dance.—A Tale of Horror 313

CHAPTER XX.

Leave Fort Simpson.—Ascent of Mackenzie.—Receive Admiralty
Despatches.—Mr. Pullen Promoted.—Return to Fort Simpson.—
The “Logan” and “Try Again.”—Departure for the Sea Coast.—
Point Separation.—Tiny Tormentors.—A diminutive Gourmand.
—Re-enter the Arctic Ocean.—Garry Island.—Ice Blink.—Pelly
Island. — A Change of Climate.— Discover new Islands.— An
Esquimaux Hamlet.— Vexatious Impediments.—Scheme of Voyage.
—Heavy Ice.—An Esquimaux Nurse.—Cape Bathurst, meeting
with Esquimaux.—The Bear Hunt.—Progress checked by Ice.—
Friendly Demeanour and pilfering Tendencies of Esquimaux.—
Lose Indians.—Conjectures.— Indians return : ; : . 337

CHAPTER XXI.

Return Voyage.—Farewell to Esquimaux.—A Native Swell Mobsman.
—Beaufort, Pullen, and Hooper Islands.—‘ Locan” Farewell.—
Fort M‘Pherson.—Horrible Massacre of Esquimaux.—Reflections
upon its probable Consequences.—Ascent of Mackenzie.—Corro-
borative Confession of Manuel Hebert.—Arrival at Fort Simpson. —
Remarks on the late Expedition. Arrangements for Wintering.
—Effect of Cold upon Metal.—Luxurious Diet.—Ice “Sets Fast.”
—A Narrow Escape.—Dogged Prejudices : : ‘ : . 362

CHAPTER XXII.

New Year's Day Festival—Cyclical Fluctuation in the Breed of
Rabbits.—Conjectured Causes, and Indian Superstition thereon.
—Consequent Effect upon fur-bearing Animals.—New Mode of
catching Foxes.—Severity of Season.—Mercury metamorphosed.—

CONTENTS. XV

Page
Aurora Borealis.—Disruption of the Ice.—A Strange Prophecy.—
Melancholy Effects of Superstition.—An Indian Marriage.—The
Fight of the Females.—Farewell to Fort Simpson.—Fort Resolu-
lution.— Manufacture of Pemmican.—Slave River.— Muddled
Moments.—The Hudson’s Bay Company of Merchant-Adventurers.
—The Hardy Voyageur.—The Adventures of a Pack.—Arrival at
the Noyé.—A beautiful Cascade.—Making a Portage.—Burn the
Fort Boats.—Chipewyan.—The Chipewyans and Crees, their
Language and Idiosyncrasy.—An Indian’s Remorse.—Mr. Geero’s
Predilections.—The Lake of the Hills—Natural Pitch—Clear
Water River.—Methy Portage.—Mermaid’s Hair . ; : . 880

CHAPTER XXIII.

Running a Rapid.—A Rapid Catalogue.—Portage du Diable.—A fatal
Disaster.—Tales by the Way.—Riviére Maligne.—The “ Pas.”—
Norway House.—Les Portes d’Enfer.—Return Home. ; . 409

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

———
THE TENTS OF THE TUSKI

WINTER QUARTERS, PORT EMMA

INTERIOR OF A TUSKI HUT .

THE GREEK CROSS.

TUSKI MAN

NATIVE MAP

WOMAN AND CHILD .

TUSKI PIPES

MY PORTRAIT

NEW FORT FRANKLIN .

MEETING WITH ESQUIMAUX, CAPE BATHURST

MAP

Page
Frontispiece.

306

348

At the end of the Book.

THE

EENTS. OF THE. TUSKI-.

CHAPTER I.

Long absence of the “Erebus” and “ Terror.”—Consideration of Contin-
gencies, and Plans for Relief.—H.M.S. “ Plover,” Commander Moore.—
Sails for Behring’s Straits.—Arrive at Sandwich Islands.—Description
of Honolulu.—lIts Inhabitants.— Beautiful Night Scene.—Departure.—
Passage to Behring’s Straits.—Aleutian Islands.—Russian Discoveries.
—St. Lawrence Island—Adverse Winds and Currents.—Tchutskoi
Noss.—The Tchutski.

T'nx attention of the Admiralty having been drawn
to the protracted absence of the two Arctic Discovery
Ships, “Erebus” and “Terror,” which sailed from
England, under the command of Sir John Franklin, in
the spring of 1845, and of which no tidings had been
received, it was determined in the autumn of 1847,
after mature consideration of the opinions of those
most experienced in Arctic affairs, to despatch three
expeditions as early as possible in 1848 to different
quarters of the frozen sea, for the purpose of seeking,

and, if necessary, relieving the missing voyagers.

B

’

2 ““PLOVERS”” VOYAGE.

Had the expedition become checked in its earlier
career, Sir James Ross proceeding up Davis’ Straits
might expect to fallin with the party. Were it stopped
between the eastern and western channels leading to
the Polar Sea, some of Franklin’s people in that case
would probably be despatched to the northern conti-
nent of America; it was necessary, therefore, to send
an expedition thither; this was undertaken by Sir
John Richardson. A third locality remained, which
it would have been imprudent to neglect. Conjecturing
the entrance and medium passage to the westward to
have been accomplished, exit had yet to be made by
a region little visited, of which the great opening from
the North Pacific into the Arctic Ocean, known as
Behring’s Strait, claimed paramount attention.

For the last-named quarter H. M.S. “Plover,” under
Commander T. E. L. Moore (an officer peculiarly fitted
for this charge by his previous experience in Arctic
and Antarctic travel), set sail from Plymouth on the
30th January, 1848.

I do not desire to enter here upon a recital of
either the fitting out or our voyage through regions
interesting indeed, but already well known. Suffice
it to say that after touching at Madeira and the
Falklands, rounding Cape Horn and visiting Callao,
we arrived at Honolulu, the capital of Woahu,

SANDWICH ISLANDS, 3

the chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 23rd of
August, 1848, the voyage having been greatly pro-
tracted by calms and contrary winds, and the very
indifferent sailmg qualities of our vessel. This
town presents from the outer anchorage the most
picturesque type of a tropical village in all its loveli-
ness. It extends along the sea-shore for about two
miles; the houses are grouped in small clusters,
surrounded by luxuriant plantations of sugar-cane,
banana, and other fructiferants of torrid climes,
surmounted by the lofty palm.

With the exception of the public edifices and a few
of the better class of houses, which are built of brick,
stone, or even slabs of coral, the habitations are for the
most part only rude huts, yet neat and cleanly-looking
from a distance : from their sombre hue, they present a
fine contrast to the varied tints of tree and herbage here
exhibited. I thought it a perfect paradise. The sweet
tale of Paul and Virginia, with the description of their
home, came across my memory, and I pictured their
land to be such an one as this.

In the bay were numerous diminutive fishing-boats,
each with an outrigger to prevent it from overturning,
so narrow and frail are they. This curious balance is
composed of a branch of considerable thickness, with

a straight stem about five feet in length, terminating
B2

4. SANDWICH ISLANDS—NATIVES.

in a flattened fork, which ever and again, as the wee
shell rocks to and fro, dips in the water and steadies
her motion ; and in this way with paddle or sail, or
both, they skim along over the waves.

The residents at Honolulu are principally Americans,
who engross much of the trade ; there are also a few
Chinese shops, where this antiquated people may be
seen in their national dress and surrounded by their
native products—Japanned-ware, crapes, silks, ivory
carved-work, &c., for which they find a ready sale.
There are several churches and meeting-houses ; also
one or two large manufactories and warehouses, conspi-
cuous from their size compared with the surrounding
buildmgs. On the right of the town is the harbour,
im which were many vessels; among others, several
American whalers refittmg for their return home; and
the old “Basilisk” lies here dismantled and deserted. I
regarded her with great interest, remembering themany
important matters im which she took her part, more
particularly in the French affair with Queen Pomaré.

Honolulu cannot certainly be lauded for cleanliness
nor the regularity of its construction : dirt abundantly
displays itself, and in the streets we were enveloped
in clouds of dust. The natives appear finely-limbed,
muscular, and of good stature. ‘The young people have

handsome and somewhat intellectual countenanees, with

FISHING BY NIGHT. 5

splendid eyes, large and sparkling, having the fire and
dark hue of the Indian; their complexions are of the
richest deep brown, some approaching copper colour ;
and the skin so clear, that the blood can be seen
mantling in their cheeks. Old age seems to transmute
all their charms into ugliness, for the few aged persons
I saw were mostly hideous. At night we were
delighted in viewing the natives fishing by torch-
light: in the frail canoes I have before noticed brands
composed of the fibrous husk of the cocoa-nut emitted
a lurid glare, and being in great numbers and constant
motion imparted a Salvator-Rosa-like effect to the
scene; the softened gleam upon the shore was very
beautiful, throwing up the more prominent objects,
whose broad shadows, rendered deeper and more
perfect by the blaze, mingled with and were lost in the
gloom of the background.

It was intended that in accordance with our instruc-
tions we should have met H. M.S. “Herald,” which
was to co-operate with us, at Panama, but the plan of
our route having been changed we had not visited that
port, and hoped to have found her here; in this
expectation we were, however, disappointed ; and after
obtaining a plentiful supply of tropical fruits and
vegetables, proceeded alone on the 25th, trusting

to fall in with her in Kotzebue Sound.

6 DEPARTURE FROM SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Having now quitted our last touchmg point, all our
attention was directed to preparing for our winter
sojourn. Warm clothing was distributed; cloaks
and socks of the fur-seal skin made up, and ice gear
fitted and inspected. In anticipation of boat expe-
ditions crews were appoimted, and their several
supplies apportioned, strong hopes being entertained
of doing something before being frozen in.

Some fine meteors were seen early in September,
and black gull and whale birds observed in considerable
numbers: a plover flew on board, a goodly omen, and
dolphins gathered round the vessel. On the 9th we
saw stormy petrels and sea swallows ; and the former,
true to their popular reputation, proved harbingers
of a heavy gale. The weather moderating, the
nautilus was seen outspreading his tiny sail.

Towards the end of the month the presence of
numerous birds, as well as quantities of sea weed,
indicated the proximity of land; on the 27th, at no
great distance from Madenoi or Copper Island,—with
the exception of Behring’s Island, the westernmost of
the group,—we passed between the Aleutian or Fox
Islands, and the main-land of Kamtchatka.

As these islands were among the first-fruits of the
discovery from the west of the western coast of the

North American continent, it may not be inappropriate

BEHRING S EXPEDITION. 7

to introduce here some slight account of their history
and native inhabitants.

The sagacious mind of Peter the Great having been
stimulated by accounts collected from Kamtchadals,
and transmitted to St. Petersburgh, concerning the
vicimity of the north-eastern point of Asia to the
north-western angle of America, devised an expe-
dition to ascertain their correctness ; this, however,
was delayed, by his death; but the Empress
Catharine, in accordance with his written instructions,
immediately on ascending the throne, despatched
Vitus Beering, or, as he is more commonly called,
Behring, a native of Denmark in the Russian service,
to obtain information on this point. On the 14th of
July, 1728, he left the river Kamtchatka in the
“ Fortune,” with two leutenants and forty men; and
having coasted the Kamtchadal, Koriak, and Tchutskoi
countries as far as 67° 18’ north, returned, having
unawares passed but a very few miles through the
Straits which now bear his name. This unconsciousness
is rather curious, as he had some intercourse with people
in their boats, who would seem to have been Tchutski,
who inhabit a country on the coast of Asia, within
thirty miles of the American continent; they, however,
informed him that their nation, although travelling

with reim-deer as far as the Kovyma, or Kolyma,

8 ALEUTIAN ISLANDS.

which runs into the Northern Ocean, had never
attempted any passage by sea. He therefore returned
home disappointed in the object of his search.

He again made the attempt in 1729, but failed
from adverse winds. No further effort was made
till 1741, when Behring again sailed with Tschirikof
on their notable enterprise in their two vessels, the
“St. Peter” and “St. Paul;” and steering to the E.S.E.,
and S.E. by E., reached the continent of America
on the 15th of July. The precise position of the
spot has been much contested, but there is good
reason to suppose he landed in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of Kayes Island, lat. 60° N., long. 144° 30°
W. It again seems strange that Behring should thus
have proceeded so far to the east without reaching land,
as the whole range of Aleutian or Fox Islands, with
the promontory of Alaska, lay directly mm the course
between the pomts of his departure from Asia and
arrival in America, extending in a scattered line from
America to within ten degrees of the Kamtchatkan
coast. In the beginning of September, on their return
voyage, the expedition fell in with the chain of the
Fox Islands, and on the 6th of November landed on
Behring’s Island, at first supposing it to be the main-
land of Avatcha; here they suffered great misery and

sickness, and on the 8th of November Behring died.

ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS. 9

The immense quantity of ammal life which then
existed on these islands, may be gathered from the
fact that on one short expedition in 1750, the large
numbers of 1781 sea otters, 720 blue foxes, and
840 young sea bears were taken, and their furs and
skins carried back by one vessel to the Russian
territories.

The imhabitants are described’ by the admirable
and sagacious Steller, who accompanied Behring, as
mostly young or middle-aged, of moderate stature,
but tolerably well-proportioned ; their arms and legs
very fleshy, their hair straight and of a glossy
blackness, the nose flat but not broad or large, the
eyes black, the lips thick and turned upward ; necks
short, shoulders broad, and bodies thick but not
corpulent. They wore shirts made of the intestines
of whales ; boots and breeches of seal-skin, stained a
brown red with alder bark ; and had long iron knives,
apparently their own manufacture (though he throws
some doubt on this poimt later im his narrative). They
made hats of bark which were coloured red and green,
and ornamented with feathers and grass; and bored
holes in various parts of the face, in which they
iserted bones and stones. They had little or no
beard.

‘They seemed to migrate from island to island,

10 ALEUTIAN ISLANDERS.

and many to the mamland of America, and were
accustomed to tattoo their faces with a red-hot
needle.

Otcheredin, who made a lengthened visit in 1770,
describes the Fox Islands as generally rocky, but
destitute of wood, and abounding with rivulets and
lakes which contain very little fish ; the population,
free and numerous; living principally in_ holes
‘dug in the earth, and subsisting on sea animals and
small shell-fish, with the wild liy-root as their
greatest luxury.

Dr. Latham, in his “‘ Varieties of Man,” asserts that
the inhabitants of these islands, including Behring’s,
Copper, Rat, Andreanowsky, and Prebiilowiini, are
all of Esquimaux origin; this he principally infers
from the radical construction of the language.

To Captain Cook, our own enterprising navigator,
belongs the merit of the true discovery of the Straits
between the two contments, although, with his usual
good taste and modesty, he gave to them the name
of Behring, in honour of, as he supposed, the first
European who ever navigated those seas. There is now,
however, little ground for reasonable doubt, although
the fact long remained involved in obscurity, that to
Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef, may be attributed the

first passage of them by civilised man. Iseai Ignatiew,

VISITS TO BEHRING’S STRAITS. Tt

who is the first person recorded to have attempted
the navigation of the Polar Ocean, sailed from
Kolymsk, east of Kolyma, in 1646; but only reached
Tchaun Bay. He obtamed some walrus teeth by
barter with the Tchutski dwelling there, and described
them as a warlike people. His accounts induced the
Fedot Alexiew, agent to a Moscow merchant, to make
an expedition in June, 1647, from the Kolyma,
designing to reach the Anadyr. Attached to his
mission was the Cossack Simeon Deshnew, or Deshnef,
as government representative. Difficulties obliged
them to return; and in 1648 a second expedition was
commenced, consisting of seven vessels, of which four
were probably lost, as further accounts have reached
us of only three. Deshnew seems to have had a
favourable season; and, passing Chelagskoi Noss, made
his way eastward and to the south, until he reached
the Gulf of Anadyr. He does not appear, however,
to have had any knowledge of the proximity of the
coast of America. With these few remarks let us
now resume our own voyage.

We steered north-west for the island of St.
Lawrence, which lies in the fair way to the entrance
of Behring’s Straits; and struck soundings on the
5th of October in 150 fathoms; on the same date

we first experienced snow. A large number of

hee PROCEED NORTHWARD.

geese were seen flying to the southward, a notable
token of the winter setting in.

Headwinds and strong currents now much impeded
our progress, and we only sighted the island of St.
Lawrence early in the morning of 13th October :
during the night of the 15th, we drifted so far to
. the north-west, that at three a.m., in the morning,
the coast of Asia, near the T’chutskoi Noss, was dis-
covered, with huts and signs of life visible on the
shore. Here was a deep indentation, with the
appearance of a river, which boats were despatched
to examine. Meanwhile, the natives were evidently
not unconscious of our presence : much bustle was
observable among them, and after considerable
running to and fro, they launched four boats, and
pulled towards us, with signs of trepidation. Their
diffidence being at length overcome, they paddled
alongside, and climbed on board.

This was our first interview with the Tchutski, a
people of whom less is known than any on the face
of the habitable globe Gf we except, perhaps, some
of the tribes in the interior of Africa) ; and whose
manners and appearance are so singular as to deserve

a more particular notice hereafter.

CHAPTER II.

Notices of Visits to Tchutskii—Cook and Billings, &c.—Wrangell’s
Laments. — Paucity of information. — First communication - with
Tchutski.—Ludicrous Mistake respecting Sex.—Attempts at Conversa-
tion.—Visit the Shore.—See real Women.—Delectable Repast.—First
Theft.— Council of Officers.— Curious Hut.— Thermometer Jack.—
Gale.—Detention of Natives.—Their Feast.—Tchutski Honour.—Move
into Winter Quarters.—First Visit to Natives.—An interesting Infant.
—Funny Fiddler.—The Sheep.—The House.—First Impressions.—
The Masquerade.—The Missionary.—The Drama.

A COMBINATION of untoward circumstances had
driven us on a coast and among a people rarely
visited. _ Cook, rankmg only second to Columbus
among navigators, was the first who touched upon
this shore, in 1778: his was but a flying visit, as he
merely landed for about a couple of hours near the
Tchutskoi Noss, and then re-embarked never to
return, although doubtless his mtention was to have
made further acquaintance with so interesting a country.
Behring, in 1728, communicated with the people of
this coast, in latitude 64° 30’ north, near the
Tchutskoi Noss. The eight natives who visited him

im a baidar, stated that the coast trended to the

14 VISITS OF COOK, ETC., TO TCHUTSKI.

westward, and spoke of an island not far distant, which
he discovered two days after, and called St. Lawrence ;
but neither he nor Lieutenant Synd, who in 1767
visited this island, and was close to the main,
seem to have thought it worth while to land or
make further mquiry respecting this isolated nation.
Billings, an officer in the Russian service, who had
been with Cook m his voyage to the North Pacific,
anchored in the Bay of St. Lawrence (not St. Lawrence
Island) on the 4th August, 1790; he does not appear
to have made any lengthened sojourn, nor to have
endeavoured to learn much respecting the people ;
but proceeded at once to the River Kolyma, a journey
which occupied six months, and thence to St. Peters-
burgh. We have learned little concerning the Tchutski
by his experience. Simeon Novikof and Ivan Baccof,
proceeding in 1749 from Anadyrsk to Kamtchatka
by sea, saw a few T'chutski upon the heights of their
coast on the gulf.

These notices appear to comprehend nearly all
that is known of this people, until the expedition
of Wrangell, in 1821, when Matiuschin gained
sufficient casual experience of them at the fair
of Ostronowie and elsewhere, to create in his own
mind and that of Baron Wrangell an intense desire to

extend their knowledge of that extraordinary race.

LUDICROUS ERRORS AND CONVERSATION. 15

The pages of the latter are full of lament at his not
having succeeded in his attempts to visit them.
Since his journey no new account has been received ;
and the further information which I was able to
collect will, therefore, not be unacceptable. Our
acquaintance with the T’chutski during our stay on
their shores was so interwoven with our own existence
and its occupations, that it would be matter of great
difficulty to describe minutely, apart from some
aceount of ourselves, such of their manners and habits
as came under our notice.

We had at first considerable doubts as to the sex:
of our visitants ; all were clad in loose hooded over-
shirts of skim, to keep them dry; and, being destitute
of beards, might well be mistaken for the tender sex ;
but we concluded that the party was of a mixed
nature, this opimion having its foundation, probably,
in the fact that some had their heads partially shaved.
Many endeavours were made to establish verbal inter-
course. Parry's vocabulary, and the few words
mentioned by Wrangell, were essayed, but all to no
purpose; they continually repeated “tam,” after-

2?

wards found to mean “no;”’ and our expressions of
vexation at the ill success of our efforts sounded, in
many instances, like their word of dissent. So we

had recourse to signs, and succeeded admirably, and

16 VISIT THE SHORE.

speedily got on a very good footing. The fiddle was
produced for their amusement, and m return we were
regaled by the monotonous beating of a species of
drum, which they had brought with them.

Two of their number, who seemed more intelligent
than the rest, and took the most prominent share in
their doings, and were, therefore, conjectured to be
chiefs, informed us, by signs, of a convenient harbour
close to our position, and of their desire that we should
enter it. To ascertain the accuracy of their report,
Captaim Moore sent me on shore to examine, the. two
natives before alluded to accompanying me in the boat
without the slightest trepidation. By their direction,
I landed on the beach near their huts, and, surmount-
ing the shingly bank which had been formed by the
ice forcing up the shore, became in an instant the
centre of attraction to a varied group of men, women,
children, and dogs. It was now easy to discover that
we had as yet seen only men, the women were readily
distinguished by the difference of their costume and
other details. Having made the necessary observations,
I took leave of my companions, and returned to the
ship.

On the morrow natives again visited us ; and one
of those whom we had yesterday supposed to be

chiefs, and who informed us that his name was, Akoull,

THE TREAT. Wi

assisted in piloting us into the harbour before
indicated, in the entrance to which we anchored
under the lee of a spit projecting in a curve nearly
half a mile from the shore. The temperature became
very much reduced during the night, and ice formed
around the ship sufficient to cut through a lead line
which hung from the “ chains.”’

On the 18th the harbour was covered with a crust
of ice which only melted away in the noon-day sun.
We were again visited by the natives, among whom
were now some women ; and on their making signs
for something to eat, one of the ladies was presented,
as a jest, with a small tallow candle, called a purser’s
dip. It was, notwithstanding, a very pleasant joke to
the damsel; who deliberately munched it up with
evident relish, and finally drew the wick between her
set teeth to clear off any remaining morsels of fat.
This was rather too much for some of us, unaccustomed
to such sights; but it was a mere trifle to scenes
often afterwards witnessed.

At night the first appearance of Aurora Borealis
was presented at N.W. by W., with rays con-
verging to the zenith. We were engaged on the
19th in a search for water, but the rivulets were
already frozen up; we were consequently obliged to

fill our tanks withice. The natives being, as usual, on

Cc

18 CONSULTATION—THE THIEF.

board, one of the many thermometers was missed, and
had evidently been purloined by one of our visitors.
The strong adverse winds having continued
hitherto, on the 20th the Captain called a council of
officers, who, after much deliberation, recommended
that, unless a favourable change of circumstances should
occur sufficient to warrant the expectation of reaching
Kotzebue Sound by the 26th, the “ Plover” should
winter in the commodious harbour where she then was.
The natives were informed of the loss of the thermo-
meter, and on whom our suspicions rested. Parties
were sent on shore at the spit to take observations,
and to cut turf wherewith to eke out the winter’s
fuel. Here, besides fragments of bones of whales, we
discovered a winter hut or yourt, much dilapidated,
and apparently long abandoned ; it was constructed
partly by excavation ; the upper part appeared to be of
mud and shingle ; around the interior, which formed
an irregular ellipse, seats had been cut in the soil.
On the 22nd (Sunday) Divine Service was _per-
formed. The natives were allowed to come on
board, but bartermg was prohibited, and they were
made to understand, as well as might be, that one
day in seven was set aside for rest and relaxation.
This they seemed to comprehend, but were, neverthe-

less, greatly astonished. The thermometer was °

NATIVES REMAIN ON BOARD—THEIR FEAST. 19

restored to-day by the wife of the reputed thief, who
thereupon received from our witty tars the cognomen
of “Thermometer Jack.” During the night the
wind increased to a gale, which, however, did not
deter the natives from their accustomed visit. They
brought accounts that the upper harbour was freezing
over. In the afternoon the wind and sea became so
boisterous, that our visitors were unable to return to
shore ; their boats were hoisted up, and preparations
made for their accommodation during the night.

It was of course necessary to provide them with food ;
and as they did not like our usual diet, culinary in-
vention was brought to bear upon the subject most
successfully. We had on board a large pitch-kettle
which fortunately had not yet been in use; in this
were boiled together oatmeal, biscuit, and fat, which
latter the episode of the tallow candle convinced us
would be appreciated. The mixture was distributed to
groups and individuals in all the vessels we could
muster, and was devoured with manifest appreciation,
the diligence of the partakers only lessening upon an
approach to satiety. Immediately upon the conclusion
of the meal, pipes were universally produced and filled,
fire struck with flint and steel, and a smoke taken by
each, after which the demand for tin-tin-mee-mil

(fresh water) became general, which we had great

Co 2

20 NATIVE MUSIC.

difficulty im fully satisfying, for each person took such
an enormous draught, that ice, which we were now
using, could not be melted sufficiently fast. We
had so large a number of visitants on board that it
would have been inconvenient, as well as imprudent,
to have permitted them to remain below during the
night, which, moreover, was not necessary to people
of such hardy habits ; the greater number enwrapped
themselves in the spare sails brought on deck for that
purpose, and a few stowed themselves in the hammock-
nettings, which were capacious, and protected by cloths
of tarpaulin, making a very snug resting-place. Our
arms were of course kept in readiness, and the pistols
loaded ; but these precautions, with unfailing vigilance
on the part of the watch, were all that was considered
necessary.

Ere our guests disposed themselves to rest,
much bartermg was carried on, besides mutual
endeavours at amusement: the fiddle, again put
im requisition, was a prolific source of delight; one
or two of the strangers evinced some slight prac-
tical knowledge of its use, but uniformly produced
only a monotonous succession of sounds. Vocal
displays of a similar description were also offered ; these
were given in a low crooning tone, the compass being

generally very limited, though occasional notes showed

TCHUTSKI HONOUR. 21

an ability for greater range. We were much attracted
and amused by their expressions of astonishment at any
new wonder. Kah—kah—kah—was the universal
ejaculation of surprise; and ké@—kéé—kék kék kée,
rapidly uttered, informed us that an unfortunate lady
had burnt her fingers with her hot pannikin of food.

I made an essay this night upon the honesty
of our friends; a fine young man named Ahmoleen,
belonging to a family which pleased me more than any
of the rest, sold me his outer-coat of reindeer skin ;
but fearful that he would feel the loss of his garment
during the night, I restored it to him, making signs
that it was to be returned on the morrow. Busy next
day with my duties I did not heed the approaching
departure of my favourites, and am delighted to record
that my friend, as I am proud, from after experience,
to call him, sought me out and delivered up the
borrowed dress with many signs of acknowledgment
for the favour. This fixed him in my esteem, nor had I
ever afterwards cause to alter my opinion of his probity.

On the 25th, all hope of making further progress
this season bemg abandoned, the ship was moved
further up the harbour, opposite to the small
village of which we supposed Akoull to be the chief.
At night the sky, though cloudy, was curiously

illumined, supposed to be caused by the Aurora.

22 MOVE INTO BERTH AND HOUSE IN.

On the 28th, the ship was finally placed im her
intended winter’s position, and the work of “stripping”
commenced. Warping into berth was a severe fore-
taste of winter’s inclemency; the temperature was
at + 28°; the water froze on the hawsers as they came
in, nor was the boat-work necessary im laying out the
anchors more pleasant, as the wind blew freshly, and
spray drenched those engaged.

Navigation and seamanship were now to be
dispensed with for awhile; we had before us a
long and severe winter to be passed in an ice-bound
ship, and we prepared accordingly to render our
residence as comfortable and little irksome as might
be. The sails were “wunbent,” dried, and stowed
away, yards and lesser spars got on deck, leaving only
the lower masts standing, the lower rigging being
secured around them to be clear of the housing, which
shortly enclosed the upper deck. Parties were sent on
shore to build a small house and cut turf. Desirous
of early and definitely establishing among our new
friends a wholesome knowledge of our power, without
displaying a hostile or precautionary intention, the
pistols were discharged at a mark, and the 12-pounder
howitzer, which was mounted on the forecastle, loaded
with grape, and fired at a number of seals which lay

on the land ice at the head of the harbour.

FIRST VISIT TO NATIVES. 23

On the lst of November, the first visit was made to
the native habitations. A party of officers went to
Woorel, the village where Akoull resided; they repaired
to his, and then to other huts, and were received with
joyful hospitality, bemg nearly roasted, as with the
T’chutski the increase of heat is the increase of honour ;
on their departure they were presented with reindeer
skins and meat, and bade farewell to their hosts with
mutual good will. Next day, according to fashionable
usage, the return visit was made by a rather numerous
party, two of whom were invited into the gun-room and
partook of our dinner. ‘They were by no means
awkward in their use of the knife and fork, and handled
their spoons to perfection—salt food, pickles, pepper,
or any other naturally hot comestible, they rejected
with extreme dislike ; but sweets of any kind were
consumed with an avidity that proved how agreeable
such delicacies were to their tastes. A boat-full of
natives, whom we had not before seen, came on board
to-day : their arrival reduced the monopoly of native
productions, and the bartering was “done at a lower
figure.’ Among them was a young man with light
brown hair and fair complexion; he would easily
have passed for an European, the flat nose of the
tribe being scarcely distinguishable in him. ‘The

chief’s (Akoull’s) youngest child, about two years old,

24. AN INTERESTING INFANT.

was also brought on board by his mother, and amused
us much by his ludicrous appearance and precocious
manner. He was completely enveloped in remdeer
skins, dressed with the hair on, a large cushion of the
same material was placed at the back of his head as a
protection and support, and as he was- withal
exceedingly fat, and had a mouth like a cocked hat,
we laughed at every new glimpse of the young
monster. Laughing was not however a practice with
this imp of saturnime temperament, who despised
moreover the usual amusements of children, and
scrutinised all objects with an immovable countenance,
as if quite accustomed to their contemplation ; yet
this child, although eating blubber, meat, or anything
else that was offered to him, was not weaned, taking
the breast, not only from his mother, but from any
other dame who would accommodate him. ‘The
other two sons of Akoull were respectively about
nineteen and thirteen years old, both very in-
telligent and lively. The eldest had been for some
time married, and was already a father; his wife was
a very nice looking girl: they both played on the
fiddle, but thei imstrument had only two strings
made of deer-gut or simew—lI also saw one of silk—
and the bow was much shorter and thinner than ours.

Several of the young men had a notion of playing,

DEATH OF POOR JACK. 25

but I heard only one tune, which in time and other
features much resembled a highland coronach. The
fingermg was good, but bowing execrable, the action
bemg from the shoulder, with which as a centre and
stiffened arm and hand as a radius, they made a series
of sweeps greater or less as required by the time and
string touched: they placed great weight upon the
bow, producing hideous screeching notes ; slurring or
stops they had evidently no idea of. I have little
doubt that their slight knowledge of the violin has
been derived from the Russians.

The “housing over” was completed about this time,
and we looked cosy enough. From mast to mast, at the
height of seventeen feet from the deck, the lower yards
and topmasts were secured as a roof-tree ; on these,
sloping to the gunwales, the smaller spars were sup-
ported at equal distances ; across these again, poles and
staves were placed, forming a species of lattice-work,
over which a thick covering of felt was stretched, with
skylights here and there, and a sallyport on the poop.

Here let me mourn the death of poor Jack. This
was a sheep which had long survived his comrades
with whom he had been brought on board at
Plymouth, and had been reserved for Sir John
Franklin in case of falling in with him; he had now

travelled over 20,000 miles with us, and was a general -

26 FIRST SUNDAY IN TCHUTSKI LAND.

pet. Jack had learned many tricks, would eat
biscuits, almonds, and morsels of tobacco, and
drank grog in the most creditable manner, and when
in want of food or water would go to the hatchway
and bleat loudly for his attendant, often even
descending the ladder, which was steep and awkward.
Latterly, probably from exposure to cold, and want
of suitable food, he had become emaciated and very
weak; and, after weathermg so many storms and
changes with us, was found one morning under the
forecastle in a helpless and dying state. A pig which
we had on board, subsequently surnamed the Cannibal,
had already commenced to devour him, tearing
away the skin on the shoulder; of course he was at |
once put out of his misery.

Akoull, with some other of the natives, attended
Divine worship on the Sabbath, and behaved with
perfect propriety; they evidently comprehended
that it was a religious ceremony of some kind,
although ignorant of its object. Our friendly inter-
course with these people was now firmly established ;
a very few days had sufficed to show them that we
had no hostile intentions; and they now came and
went freely, without the slightest hesitation: although,
as we afterwards learned, they were greatly alarmed

. upon our first appearance, and many had retired with

BUILDING A HOUSE. Q7

their reindeer from their dwellings to secrete them-
selves among the fastnesses of their hills. They had
already found out the gradations in rank, and made
selection of their favourites, and never visited us
without bringing as presents, or for barter, articles of
dress or ornament, reideer, walrus, seal, and even
whales’ flesh. On the Captain’s paying a visit to
Woorel, which, as nearest to the ship (at about
four miles distance), was at first exclusively visited, a
token of kindly consideration was evinced by Akoull,
who sent up a reindeer skin as a present to one of the
officers who was not of the party.

~The house on shore, intended for bread-baking,
washing, and other purposes, was a rare proof of what
may be performed with slight means by ingenuity and
perseverance. Its walls were composed of large stones,
dug with great labour from the stony soil, and of
gravelly shingle from the beach, where it existed in
considerable quantities : the sloping roof was a com-
bination of rafters, turf, tarpaulin, and a sheet of whale-
gut, obtained from the natives. Its extent was twenty
feet by twelve; and a door and window looked to
the southward. Perhaps the most remarkable feature
of the affair was the fire-place or stove. An iron
tar-cask, cylindrical in form, was given to our

ingenious blacksmith, who cut two folding-doors in it,

28 FIRST IMPRESSIONS.

and converted it into an oven; it was then placed in
one corner of the house, from the roof of which the
funnel projected, surmounted by an old bottomless iron
pot. In front was placed a flag-staff, on whicha Union
Jack occasionally enlivened the desolation around.

The temperature, which had lately varied from
+ 17° to + 23°, rose above the freezing point on the
6th November, and a general thaw (the most dis-
agreeable thing that can happen in severe winter)
occurred. Seals and geese were numerous on the
land ice ; the latter, none of which we had seen for a
long time, bemg tempted to alight in this mild
weather. We endeavoured to kill some, but they
were far too wary.

I find in my private note-book, under date 8th
November, the following remarks, which I insert as an
instance of first impressions of these people, and interest-
ing as a comparison with my views upon a more mature
acquaintance :—‘ Among those who visited us to-day,
came ‘Thermometer Jack,’ emboldened, I suppose, by
the civility the rest meet with, as he has not made his
appearance. since the act which gained him his
soubriquet. Really we are becoming quite domes-
ticated with these people ; they visit our mess-room,
and go from cabin to cabin, eat with us, drink

with us, and are exceedingly good friends. Whether

A POLAR NIGHT. 29

these are the veritable Tchutski (which I am inclined
somewhat to doubt), or another race, I cannot
pretend to decide ; but certaimly their manners are as
much unlike those chronicled by geographers as can
be. Quiet and peaceful, having no idea of aggression,
and doing all they can to make us happy and conduce
to our comfort; exceedingly cleanly also im their
persons and food, for although they consume fat and
all kinds of (to us) nasty stuff, they do not take it
when dirty, and generally cook everything. I am now
speaking only from very slight personal experience.”
I must also make another short quotation, as its
cause made a great impression upon me at the time:
“This evening the temperature has again fallen, and
a perfect calm ensued; the harbour is freezing over
fast, with the water as smooth as glass: a bright
moon and cloudless starlit sky render the scene one
of the most perfect- for tranquil beauty I can
remember ever to have witnessed’; yet here are no
trees, no woods, no foliage to enliven the view ;—all
is snow-clad ; mountains and rugged hills frowning in
their majesty where thrown into deep shade, and
assuming with the headlands and _ slopes strange
fantastic shadows, jutting out in bold relief on the
silent water. So, after all, there may be other than

tropic nights charming.”

30 THE MASQUERADE,

In high latitudes the clearness of atmosphere
in winter generally precedes an increase of cold ;
and on the 9th we found the temperature consider-
ably decreased, one of the men having his fingers
slightly frost-nipped while scrubbing hammocks.
A seal was brought on board to-day, which,
although small, yielded about four inches thickness
of blubber next the skin.

Our first masquerade occurred on the 17th
November, and was, as a novelty, sufficiently amusing.
We had managed to make up a band, which, on extra-
ordinary occasions, reached the number of eight ; the
instruments for music were fiddles and a flute, while
those added to give effect, which they did most noisily,
were a gong and small military drum ; and at a later
season, a chime of bells made from those supplied to
the ship, and a Tuski drum. One of our men
who had not always been a sailor, and among
other phases of his varied life, had once itmerated
with an organ and a tamburine girl, manufactured a
tamburine, which he handled in an artistic manner,
doing the thumb-roll to perfection ; and also tried his
hand at a tin-flute, which made a good Arctic sub-
stitute for a piccolo. European and native materials
were alike employed for costume, the hybrid appear-

ances creating much mirth. Among the most promi-

THE MISSIONARY. 31

nent characters may be noticed Messrs. Jim Crow and
Paul Pry, a sweep, a dustman, and a gentleman’s valet;
and the master of the band in the sergeant’s scarlet
coat, gold epaulettes, and cocked-hat and feather, with
ablack face. There were also two ladies, a harlequin,
and a Greek gentleman, whose costume was most
correct; a huge bear worried the performers, who
were forced to make frequent visits to an inimitable
Tom-and-Jerry shop, whose rotund host, our worthy
cook, was a fit type of Boniface.

In the afternoon of the 18th, the harbour was, after
many disruptions, permanently frozen over, and next
morning the natives came to the ships over the ice with
dogs and sledges ; but the crew were not permitted to
run about unrestrainedly until another night had made
security indisputable ; after which foot-ball, leap-frog,
and other athletic exercises, were frequently enjoyed.
On the 28th, a severe gale from the north-north-west
occurred, which unroofed the house on shore, and
dragged the stream-anchor, used to secure the cover-
ing, and weighing five cwt. and a quarter, fifteen
yards. The snow-drift this day must have proved fatal
to any parties caught in it, its velocity was estimated
at thirty miles an hour, and it completely obscured
objects a few yards distant.

November concluded with the visit of a native

oe THE THEATRE.

missionary, who produced baptismal certificates and
was a gentleman of speech-rambling propensities.
I fear his spiritual mission was of little benefit to the
savage flock, as we afterwards found him sorely
wanting in the two great laws of Christianity.

We were now regularly pursuing the occupations
and amusements of an Arctic winter. A survey of the
harbour was commenced, and parties were employed
boiling out oil from blubber which was plentifully
supplied, fetching water on a large sledge from a
spring discovered near the ship—which kept open
all the winter—cutting the edges of the ice round the
ship to prevent her being forced up, and removing
accumulations of snow from the housing and otherwise,
as necessary. A school was regularly established for
the men, masquerades occurred every week, and on
the 4th of December the Royal Asiatic Theatre
opened, with the burlesque of “ Bombastes Furioso,”’

when this prologue was delivered—

“Sure here’s the greatest wonder of the Age,
In Tchutski Land an European Stage ! !!
Stern Winter’s chilling frowns we hold for nought,
And Mirth and Frolic cherish as we ought.
‘Mid Frost and Snow to keep King Fun alive,
This evening we an ancient jest revive.
Our efforts weary moments to beguile
Kindly reward with an approving smile.

CHAPTER Til.

Tuski not Tchutski—Tuski, Proper and Alien: their difference. —
Language.— Description.—Resemblance to Chinese.—Conjectures.—
Difficulty of Discrimination— A Trip.—Sledges.— Dogs.— Huts.—
Furniture.—Utensils.

In all our doings, whether of industry or relaxation,
the natives took an active part, behaving almost
uniformly with perfect good nature, and evincing a
most obliging disposition towards us. Of course we
soon began to understand each other; but they did
not learn English nearly so quickly as many of us
acquired their tongue. The officers were from this
time until May seldom all on board together, expedi-
tions bemg constantly afoot to seek tidings of
Franklin, and to gain information respecting the
country and inhabitants, of whom, having been con-
stantly among them, I had the good fortune to learn
much, and will here endeavour to describe their
appearance and other characteristics.

I have first to make aremark respecting the correct
designation of this people, which I think all-important

_ towards the decision of a long-disputed question, beside

D

34 TUSKI.

bemg a remarkable feature in character. Tchouski,
Tchuktche, Tchutski, 'T'chekto, and other similar appel-
lations, I believe to have all arisen from the word
Tuski, meaning a confederation or brotherhood, which
exists among them, and is endowed with some extra-
ordinary customs, of which one or two are perhaps
unique in practice. We sought assiduously for the self-
distinguishing name of this people; and it was con-
jectured, on one occasion, that they called themselves
“ Nootiisken Callowole,”’ but this was afterwards found
to mean simply, “people of a country,” or, in fact,
“‘ natives ;’ thus ‘““Gumneen Nootusken,” and ‘“ Giin-
neen Nootiisken,’’ mean severally ‘ my country,” and
“your country.’ The mention of the numerous appel-
lations given to them by strangers, with inquiry as to
their correctness, invariably produced a negative
reply, with the use of the word Tuski, and a full
explanation of its particular meaning, whence they
call themselves “'Tuski Callowole,”’ or people of the
Tuski brotherhood.

Lengthened intercourse and observation led to the
opinion, in myself a confirmed one, that we had two
distinct races, or at least branches, before us, differmg
in language, appearance, and many details of dress and
occupation, but living close to and holding friendly

intercourse with each other. The Reindeer 7xshz, or,

THE TUSKI PROPER. 35

as I shall call them, Tuski Proper, evidently the original
proprietors or occupants of the soil, having their
hamlets situate with a regard to pasture for their
large herds of tame reindeer, rather than to the con-
veniences of fishing, which is pursued by them
apparently more as an amusement than a necessity,
dressing neatly and with taste in the well-cured skins
of the deer slaughtered for food, of which the meat
is eaten fresh, or smoked, or converted into deli-
cious* pemmican; and the fishing, or Alien Tuski,
speaking a dialect evidently first corrupted from the
Esquimaux, and now further disguised by adoption
of many words of the Reindeer tribe. These of neces-
sity have their huts close upon the sea-shore, being
dependent upon the produce of the sea, dressing in
seal-skins ; and with much less care than their neigh-
bours, filthy in their persons, and frequently revolt-
ing in their food, eating almost exclusively fish,
whale, seal, and walrus; less athletic, and, indeed, to
my view, infinitely inferior both in moral and physical
condition to their neighbours. The Tuski Proper
exchange skins of the reindeer, and a small portion
of the meat, for seal-skins, whale, walrus, and seals’
flesh, tusks, sinews, &c., all of which are much less
valuable than their own commodities. Seal-skins

they need for marine employments, as those of the
D2

36 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE TUSKI.

reindeer are destroyed by salt water; the aliens
require deer-skins for hut furniture.

The Tuski Proper are mostly either tall or stunted
in their growth, few persons appearing of a middle
stature. I estimate the average height of the tall
men to be about 5ft. 10in., while the more puny
would probably not exceed 5 ft. 5 in. This differ-
ence does not hold good as regards their build; all
are large limbed, broad shouldered, and of a robust
full habit, possessing great strength, powers of
endurance, activity, and dexterity in their employ-
ments. ‘The women do not vary so much in stature,
and are tall in proportion to the men; they also are
stout and strong, and display a notable performance
of their numerous duties.

The cast of skull and countenance are, as far as
my very limited knowledge of the subject extends,
pure Mongolian; faces broad, round and flat; high
cheek-bones ; nose broad, flat and almost bridgeless,
in many instances so deeply sunken in the fat face,
that a ruler would nearly lie across the cheeks
without touching it; eyes placed in a slightly oblique
position ; lips large and heavy, displaying much of
the animal; ears small and delicate; hands and feet
also very small but rather thick; hair jet black,

coarse and straight; whiskers or beard but seldom

THEIR DRESS. 37

existing, and then only in a few straggling hairs which
are plucked out with a knife; the whole expression
of countenance is almost identical with Chinese—a
point which forcibly struck me at first sight. Their
limbs are of splendid muscular development ; wrists
and ancles very fine, but neck generally short and
thick ; complexions varying from a light olive to a
deeper hue, but very dark tints only occasionally seen.
The men generally clip the hair on the crown of the
head, leaving only a circlet about three inches broad
around it; the women let the hair grow with the
exception of that on the forehead which is cut and
combed down to the eyebrows. The faces of the
women are tattooed on the chin in diverging lines ;
men only make a permanent mark on the face for an
act of prowess or success, such as killing a bear,
capturing a whale, &c., and possibly also, in war time,
for the death of an enemy.

The dress is with the wealthier sort composed
almost entirely of deer, fawn and dogskin, beau-
tifully dressed, by the women, with the hair on: the
poorer people, who are apparently much dependent
on and obedient to a few rich, often substitute shoes
and breeches of sealskin. ‘The usual dress consists
for the men of an inner shirt or frock of fawn

skin, frequently ante-parturital, worn with the hair

38 DRESS OF THE TUSKI.

inwards, and a huge frock of deer-skin reaching
nearly to the knees, the hair being outwards. The
breeches are rarely double; they are secured over the
hips by a drawing string, and reach to the ancle, gomg
inside the mocassins, which are made of the skin from
the legs of remdeer, with soles of seal or walrus hide,
and ornamented with variegated pieces let im at the
sides with great taste and neatness. Mittens em-
broidered with deer-hair, an outer and inner cap,
and a belt often handsomely ornamented, complete the
ordinary costume, to which in bad weather, 7.e., durmg
wind and snow, are added the okonch, to keep the
snow from their garments, and also a piece of reindeer
skin about eight inches square, which, suspended by a
string from the neck, closes the opening in front of
the frock, and catches any drops which may fall
while the wearer is drinking, &c. The dress of the
females is materially different ; a frock with a wide
hood, edged with wolf or dog-skin, is m one piece
with wide buskins, reaching only to the knee, where
they are met by handsome mocassins or boots; the
costume is exceedingly picturesque, and has been
adopted with a view equally to convenience and
appearance, as will presently be shown.

I will here notice, before goimg into further details,

the few poimts of difference which I observed between

TUSKI ALIEN. 39

those whom I consider Proper, and those whom I
consider Alien. Many of those domiciled on the sea
shore presented a marked contrast of countenance to
the ‘ Reindeers ;”” the forehead was higher and more
narrow, the face longer and less broad, the features
more distinctly defined, particularly the nose, the tint
darker, and I also think the person, although as
muscular, by no means so fleshy; but this may
have arisen from the difference of food, notwith-
standmg I am of opinion that their oily diet
was, of the two, more conducive to condition. ‘The
languages, as I have before remarked, are essentially
different,* though now much commingled; and I
consider even the delivery and intonation different,
the Aliens dealing much more in guttural sounds.
Their dress is almost exclusively of seal and dog-
skin ; only a few of the principal persons wear good
remdeer clothes, which would indeed be quickly
spoiled by the nature of their occupations. ‘Their
huts are neither so large, so clean, nor so well
furnished as those of the Tuski Proper, and
it seems to me that they are generally pretty
well content to accept the inferior and second-hand
skins and garments of their wealthy companions.

* This may be seen in Klaproth’s “ Asia Polyglotta” and “Sprachatlas,”

for which information and much kind assistance, I am indebted to my
friend Dr. R. G. Latham.

40 CONJECTURES.

I must here remark that the distinctions I have
just drawn, as so decidedly existing between
the two races, did not, at first view, present
_ themselves in such force, probably because the line
of separation is not rigidly followed; but I have
nevertheless no doubt of thei correctness. I am
indeed inclined to believe that greater or less
amalgamation occurs. I cannot speak positively as
to marriage, but I know that natives of St. Lawrence
Island who bear the type of the sea-coast tribes, and
have become prisoners by the chances of war or ship-
wreck, have passed from one owner to another in the
capacity of slaves, and, by concubinage, increased the
difficulty of discrimmating between the races. Never-
theless, a recurrence of reflection upon this subject
has convinced me that, as before said, there were two
races present here, one indigenous to the continent, if
not to the immediate soil, the other, voluntary or
accidental immigrants from the adjacent land of
America.

I will not, indeed, exclude the view that possibly,
ut a period of great antiquity, the Esquimaux on
the American coast, west of the Mackenzie river,
may themselves have emigrated from the Asiatic
continent, since there is an evident dissimilitude,

in many respects, between them and those to the

FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY. 41

eastward of that river ; but such an event, if it occurred
at all, must have been at a very early period, and
the return was caused probably by the inability to
extend their footing on the American shore. I deem
it, therefore, the preferable course to treat of the two
tribes as one, excepting where peculiar distinctions
occur.

I shall make but slight mention of the country,
since it is almost vain to seek in this truly desolate
region any more than the least fruitful indications
of an elsewhere bountiful Nature. The Flora is
especially meagre ; mosses and lichens, with a very
few stunted twigs of the Andromeda class, are all that
are to be found. Ranges of hills cross and recross
each other with little of variety in their general shape,
all betokening a volcanic origin; and in many, old
craters are clearly visible; but I know, by report,
only of one mountain now burning.

One of the first visits, in their own style, paid to
the natives, I had the good fortune to share in; and
in describing it, I shall take the opportunity of men-
tioning many interesting points. Mahkatzan, to whose
hut we were to repair, had brought over sledges and
dogs for the journey. Mr. Martin and myself had
therefore only to make arrangements for our own com-

fort, and to provide a few trifles for our hosts. The

4.2 TUSKI SLEDGES.

Tuski travelling sledge—for there are two other kinds
—is constructed principally for speed, bemg exceed-
ingly hght, and of an elegant form. Six or nine arches
of wood, let into flat runners, support a seat about five
feet long and fourteen inches broad, connected at the
head with the runners by thin springy curves; a sort
of basket is formed at the back of the sledge, and
broad strips of whalebone are secured under the
wooden runners, which render friction — scarcely
observable. Braces and uprights further bind the
parts together, and all is fastened with whalebone in
a manner perfectly neat and secure. A single thong of
seal-hide from the under part of the seat serves to attach
the dogs, which vary from two to as many as ten; as
far as eight they all run abreast, the single traces of
their harness radiating from the main thong, to
which they are secured by loops of ivory. The dogs
are generally small, long-haired, and wiry, with
pointed ears and bushy tail; they have many points
resembling both the wolf and the fox, the bark
especially being a very melancholy whine. A
favoured few of the Tuski were possessors of a tall
and strong mongrel breed—probably by communi-
cation with the Russians—with short hair, and
something of the pointer look. One train of dogs we

saw resembled the staghound, and were capable of

TUSKI DOGS. 43

immense speed and endurance of fatigue; but the
native dogs will outlive cold and hunger, which the
foreign breed would early succumb to, the feet of the
strangers being especially tender.

We started from the ship on a splendid morning,
with the temperature at 20° below zero, nearly calm.
I had the honour of conducting the really pretty wife
of Mahkatzan, who seated herself astride behind
me on the sledge! while my companion was placed
with our worthy host. I was of course desirous of
acquitting myself creditably as a Jehu; but the first
essay in dog-driving will scarcely be a successful one.
Reins there are none; the animals are to be guided
almost entirely by the whip, particularly with
strangers, their masters alone having power by the
voice; and hereim great management and watchfulness
are necessary, and an unpractised hand will be quite
unable to run the dogs off a beaten track, or prevent
their returning to ther homes. Fortunately for my
escape from total discomfiture, Mahkatzan led the way,
and our canine steeds were going homeward, so we
dashed along without any more than an occasional
overturn, my fair companion holdmg me in a
vigorous grasp in any such case of danger; consequently
a double effort of clinging to our sledge was of

course necessary on my part. After a rapid drive of

44, TUSKI HUTS:

four hours, during which my companion had_ his
face slightly frost-nipped, we arrived at Kaygwan,
where our conductor resided, and were scarcely
permitted to look round, so eager was he to press
upon us the hospitable shelter of his roof. Kaygwan
is a very small place ; I cannot even call it a hamlet,
since it consisted only, if my memory serve me
right, of five huts, of which that of our entertaimer,
though greatly larger than the others, was not of
extraordinary dimensions.

As the huts of the Tuski are all of similar form
and materials, and differ only in size, cleanlmess and
convenience, I shall here describe them generally,
noting peculiarities in their proper places. Around,
and resting upon one or two props, are ranged at
equal distances ribs of the whale, their number and
the area of the hut or tent, which is mostly circular
or oblong spheroidal in shape, depending upon the
dimensions. Over these, tightly stretched and neatly
sewn, is drawn a covering of walrus skin, so beau-
tifully cured and prepared as to retain its elasticity,
and to be semilucent; some of these skins are of
an enormous size; I saw one in the roof of Metra’s
tent at Wootair, which could not have contained
less than between seventy and eighty square feet, and

the whole clear as parchment. So much light being

THEIR EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR. 45

admitted by the roof, no windows are necessary ;
an aperture on the most sheltered side serves as
a door, over which, when not in use, a screen of
walrus skin is drawn; snow is heaped to the height
of about eighteen inches round the tent, to keep
wind or drift from penetrating beneath, and the
outer shell is complete, with the addition of cords of
hide sometimes passed over and across the roof to
secure the skin. 7
The yaranga (plural of yarang), as these huts are
‘called, are constructed of a rounded form, to prevent
snowdrift from collecting at the gables, and to oppose
few points to the fierce winds which sweep remorse-
lessly over these treeless regions ; the same rule is not
observed with regard to the imterior. As the
yaranga vary so much in size, some being only ten
or a dozen feet in diameter, while the largest measure
from thirty to forty, the internal arrangements also
differ much. In the smaller, a single apartment—
frequently scarce large enough for two persons—runs
across the hut opposite to the door, while im the
habitations of chiefs, who have generally three or four
generations living under their roofs, the sleeping places
extend in a front and two sides nearly round the
walls of the dwelling. These extraordinary chambers

are formed by posts let mto the soil at a distance from

46 UTENSILS.

each other, and from six to eight feet from the
exterior walls, on which, at heights varying from three
to five feet, a roof of skins and laths is supported ;
thick layers of dried grass are placed over all to exclude
the cold; deerskins dressed with the hair on and
closely sewn together hang from the edge of this
roof on the inside, and can be drawn aside or closed
at will; when shut they entirely exclude the external
air. On the ground are stretched more well-cured
walrus’ skins, over which, when repose is taken,
those of the reindeer and Siberian sheep, beautifully
prepared, are laid; above, close under the roof,
against the sides of the hut, small lattice shelves
are slung, on which mocassins, fur socks, and the
dried grass which the more prudent place in the
soles of their boots to absorb moisture, are put
to dry. A species of dish, oval and shallow, manu-
factured, as I understood, by themselves, of a plastic
material and afterwards hardened, but from its
appearance possibly cut out of stone, serves as a
lamp ; against a ridge, running along the middle, and
nearly an inch high, fibres of weet-o-weet, or moss,
are neatly arranged, only their pomts showing above
the stone edge: the dish is filled with train oil, often
hard frozen, and a light of peculiar beauty produced,

giving enormous heat, without, when well trimmed,

KAYGWAN. 47

either smoke or smell, and certainly one of the
softest lights I ever saw, not the slightest glare
distressing the eyes; around the outer wall are
ranged any trifling articles of ornament which may
be possessed. Wooden vessels scooped from drift-
wood are placed in the corners; they contain ice and
snow, of which the Tuski consume vast quantities ;
indeed, snow-muntching appears to occupy the principal
part of their time between the important periods of
food and repose. The area of the yarang not occupied
by the salons is used quite as an antechamber or
hall of entrance ; here food is deposited previous to
preparation for cooking, much of which is also done
here over larger lamps than those inside. Here are
unloaded sledges, and the porters of ice and snow;
the former being afterwards placed on the roof of the
sleeping apartment. Here too the dogs feed and
sleep, the faithful creatures ever seeking to lie close
to their masters at the edge of the imner rooms, and
even thrusting their noses into the heated atmosphere.
Now let us go into the air again, and then, with
my host Mahkatzan, enter his habitation, and note its

novel features.

CHAPTER IV.

Kaygwan.—A Tuski House.—Rather too warm.—A Relief.—A Delusion.—
Magic and Music! !—Snow Storm.—Two good Friends.—Port Emma.
—Intimacy with Natives.—Tok.—Tuski Skill and Ingenuity.—The
would-be Priest.—C onstitution of Rank.—A clever Fellow.

Kaye@wan had been doubtless chosen as a resi-
dence for its convenience as a fishing station ; im all
else it was decidedly undesirable, bemg placed upon
the brow of a shght eminence overlooking the sea,
and but little sheltered by the hills south and west

of it. Before Mahkatzan’s hut, as frequently m

other places, stood a shght scaffoldmg, upon which

were placed sledges, harness, frozen fish, and other
matters, which it was necessary to keep from the
dogs. Against and upon the hut were poles and
coils of line of walrus or seal hide, seal and walrus-
skins but lately removed from the animals, all thrown
carelessly up; while in the outer hall of the yarang,
scraps and fragments of fish and blubber, scattered
straws and lines of snow-drift, gave but small promise

of neat or cleanly arrangements. Lifting the heavy

MAHKATZAN S HUT. 4.9

skins which hung before the imner chamber,
Mahkatzan ushered us in with officious zeal; here
we found, besides his wife, who had already slipped
off the upper part of her dress, a number of girls
and boys, some quite naked, others only partly so.
The heat was painfully oppressive after the pure cold
atmosphere outside; but this did not at all distress
our host, who deliberately divested himself of his
garments, which were however disposed about his
person with perfect propriety. The heat reaching
at last 100° Fahrenheit, we were glad to follow
his example, in part, removing our heavy outer
habiliments, and resigning ourselves to the now
more tolerable infliction, in shirt and trousers.

The unaccustomed scene in all its variety had so
powerful an effect upon us that we were unable to
do more than look at the viands offered for our
acceptance ; indeed, on entering the hut, appetite had
been quite banished by the sight of a walrus which,
although now frozen, was evidently far gone in
putrefaction.

We were glad to get a cup of tea, of which we
had brought a small stock, and hoped soon to
forget all our troubles in repose. Fallacious idea !
deluded victims! Every instant from that of our

entrance, the screens were in constant agitation, the

E

50 A DELUSION.

denizens of the hamlet, who I verily believe were
magically multiplied that night for our torment,
thrusting in their wondering visages to get sight of
the “ Atwoken Callowole,’”’ or “ Big boats’ people.”
These manifestations of wonder were to be tolerated,
as they really did friendly service, letting in some of
the delicious cold air which was otherwise denied us ;
but alas, an ordeal we had little reckoned on was yet
to come, dread Shamanism in all its terrors. Just
when we eagerly anticipated the signal for repose, the
tent was invaded by a host of both sexes, among
whom two men of a villainous aspect (to us at that
moment particularly so), carried large drums or
tambourmes ; and a nocturnal serenade immediately
commenced, which for screeching and deafening
uproar equalled music of the Infernos. The perform-
ances were commenced by the two drum-beating
Shamans, who sang monotonously while tapping in a
slow measured time; and these were soon joined by
the whole body in chorus, with violent shouts and
gesticulations, increasing in rapidity and vehemence.
This sort of thing contimued for nearly half an hour,
by which time Martin and I were almost bewildered,
and victims of racking headaches. After these rather
forcible demonstrations of rejoicing, for such our host

interpreted them to be, we were still further entertained

THE FESTIVAL. seit

by gymnastic evolutions or contortions of various
performers, who at the same time chaunted, accom-
panied by the drums and chorus. The first were
young girls, then young men, and lastly, as if to wind
up and provoke our mirth at any rate, ax» aged woman
with shrivelled limbs, and hideous puckered visage,
essayed a feeble exhibition, croonmg out also m a
thin and shaking tone, and concluding her deed of
might with a gr of horror. It was so inexpressibly
ludicrous, that notwithstanding great disgust and pity
for the poor old creature, our uncontrollable emotions
were not to be suppressed, and we laughed loudly
and long, at which the dame seemed greatly flattered,
and cackled to herself in high glee.

The Tuski drum is composed of the peritoneum or
external membrane of the stomach of the deer, seal, or
walrus, stretched across a slight hollow frame of an
oblong round, with a short handle to keep clear of the
skin. This membrane is not generally beaten ; a light
wand of drift fir is held by the middle and struck
against the edges of the wooden frame, sound being
produced by concussion: sometimes two very light
rods of whalebone with small knobs are used; these
are gently tapped on the skin itself, and the sound
then is more shrill. The evolutions practised to-night

brought only the upper part of the performers’ body
E 2

52 A SNOW-STORM.

into play, their legs being folded under them ; there
was little worthy of note except the precision with
which music and movements accompanied each other.
There is a termination to all human events; we
were at lastsreleased from this inhuman persecution,
performers and gazers departed, and our, literally,
shake-downs were prepared. Mahkatzan and his
wife hung a curtam of skins from the roof of the
apartment, laid down others for couches and coverlets ;
then, pointing out to us the places we were to occupy,
extinguished the lamp and all lay down to sleep; nor
were we disturbed until grey dawn appeared, and with
ita heavy gale and terrible snow-drift, which threatened
at first to prevent our return to the ship, Mahkatzan
refusing to guide us thither. On our evincing, how-
ever, a determination to depart, even if alone, he
reluctantly harnessed the dogs and set forth with us.
Those who have never witnessed a heavy snow-
storm can have but slight idea of the difficulty of
travelling in it, especially over a barren country where
there is little shelter, and no check to the furious rush
of drift. Martin and I were choking and blinded
before we had gone half-a-dozen yards, and began to
think our guide was right in his objections ; however
we persisted in trying it yet awhile, and when we
had gone some distance, though the weather became

DESCRIPTION OF THE OKONCH. 53

worse, thought it better to proceed than turn back.
Many tracts and lakes, which when we came over had
been hidden by snow, now lay perfectly bare, only a
few hardened ridges here and there near stones show-
ing the resistance offered. On the lakes, which were
frozen smoothly as glass, friction was so entirely lost
that sledges, dogs, and men, were carried along by
the wind without the slightest power of control ;
contact with hardened waves of snow or fragments
of rough ice on the borders alone stopped us, the
sledges then overturning and throwing us off with
violence. We took just double the time to make the
return journey that we had before occupied, and
arrived at the ship well nigh frozen and greatly
fatigued.

The covering to protect the dress, as well as the
square piece worn over the opening in the frock,
proved on this occasion their great value. The
okonch, okoncho, or okéncé, is made of the intestines
of whales, and other marine animals, slit open and
sewn very neatly together on a double edge ; those of
the men have a narrow hood and sleeves, and are
generally plain, of whale gut: the women have them
mostly of seal gut, which is much thinner and less
oily : these have broad hoods to receive their hair and

the large fringed hoods of their frocks ; the sleeves also

54, PORT EMMA.

are very wide: some are ornamented with feathers
from the bill of the eider duck placed apart in rows ;
others have thin strips of seal skin and hair edging
the sleeves and bottom, and indeed there are various
modes of ornament: the strips are sewn together
horizontally or vertically at the caprice of the maker.
This species of shirt is when good quite impervious to
water and exceedingly light, weighing only a few
ounces: it is manifest what a boon such a protection
must be in snow, particularly heavy drift, the fine
particles of which will penetrate into the smallest
crevice, and so completely fill the hair of the dress
that its weight becomes unbearable. The little square
patch is also a trusty friend ; when clogged it is easily
taken off, beaten, and replaced.

Frequent visits were now made to the neighbouring
hamlets, those immediately proximate to our position
being of course most often repaired to. Of these,
Woorel, the nearest, was about four miles, nearly south,
from the ship, in a small bay of the harbour which
had been christened Port Emma by Captain Moore ;
it contained ten or eleven huts, and about seventy
inhabitants.

Highly interesting as our communication with this
new people naturally was, it must not be supposed

that we depended entirely upon them for means of

BARTER. be

occupation or amusement: nevertheless they were
in most cases so intermingled with our employments
that these acquired a new zest thereby. Naturally
of an inquisitive, curious disposition, increased
doubtless by the profusion of unexplaimed and novel
wonders each day exhibited, our friends beset us
ever on all sides with countless questions, whether
we were engaged in making scientific observations,
reading a book, or mixing a glass of grog as an
interlude. All was new; all must be made clear
and common-place to their comprehension. Then
there were little transactions of “tok,” or barter, to
be gone into; but herein I certainly believe that our
friends were more au fait than ourselves : they speedily
caught at the tastes of each of us and met our desires,
often before expressed, almost by intuition. But it
must not be imagined that these efforts were made
without hope of fee or reward, although some instances
of pure disinterestedness, I believe, I can venture
by and by to record. On the side of the natives
were produced frocks and breeches of remdeer, fawn,
seal and dog-skin, also of eider duck, okonches or
over shirts for snow, caps, mocassins, mitts and such
hke, in all of which the inventive genius of the
untutored savage was employed; and so extensive

was the demand for their productions, that great

56 MANUFACTURING SKILL.

improvement became speedily manifested, and even
new branches for profit opened.

These people embroider very prettily, and to a great
extent, with the hair of the reindeer and pieces of
leather cut out in the required form and sewn on;
they also join many party-coloured pieces of skin
together, which have frequently a very pretty effect.
It is curious to notice how with them, as in more
civilised communities, certain persons were famed for
their skill in particular branches of manufacture.
Some women were remarkable for dressing skins in a
superior manner; others were noted for employing
better dyes than usual. At Wootair dwelt a cunning
artist, a very Tuski Cellini, whose skill in sculp-
turmg ivory was the theme of praise throughout
the country. One man made whip handles well;
another produced the best thongs, and so in all
things we saw; as I believe must inevitably be ;
chaquun a son métier. These enjoy a monopoly in
their peculiar pursuits ; and although, I believe, they
do not exact more than an equitable consideration for
their productions among themselves, put the screw
on pretty tightly with strangers, whom a fortunate
chance had thrown upon their shores; and as, of
course, curiosities and specimens of the progress of

the arts and sciences were in great request, a fine

INDUSTRIAL ARTS. 57:

harvest was reaped by the more ingenious. In
addition to the articles of clothing, before spoken
of, as brought for barter, many really interesting nick-
nacks were produced. Models of sledges, and of house-
hold furniture, pipes and toys of ivory, among which
were ducks, seals, dogs, &c., made for their children,
and evidencing great taste and variety, fishing-lines
of whalebone, with hooks and sinkers of ivory,
seal-skin bags, large and small, coils of rope of
walrus or seal hide, cut without a jom for full fifty
fathoms, and of all thicknesses ; dogs, sledges and
harness ; and, in fact, any and everything they could
think of within their resources; even the tiniest
children endeavouring to bring something into the
market: indeed, their contributions were not the
least interesting or sought for. Reindeer, or portions
of a carcase, were occasionally brought for sale or
gift, also blubber of the whale and seal for oil, and
walrus flesh for the dogs, of which we had in course
_ of time a large number for the sledges. Walrus
tusks also brought a good price, and were at first
supplied in profusion.

The exchanges on our side consisted of large and
small knives, beads, files, saws, tobacco, trade-cloth,
needles, thimbles, looking-glasses, and any little odds

and ends which we happened to possess. Preserved

58 THE MISSIONARY.

meat tins were a great acquisition to the meagre
furniture of the Tuski, who were delighted to replace
the scanty and cumbrous wooden vessels, scooped
with great pains out of drift wood, or others made
of thin pieces, bent and hooped, which, although
lighter, leaked perpetually, by the canisters, which
they scraped bright, and put neat handles to. Indeed,
there was great ingenuity displayed in the appli-
cation of everything transferred from us to them,
nor was the smallest scrap refused; a tiny bit of
wood was accepted with the same alacrity as would
be shown upon the offer of a knife or a necklace ; and
although we might not be able to conceive the use it
would be put to, some future occasion would display
its application.

I have before spoken of a self-called, and I
rather think, self-constituted missionary, who visited
the ship in November; we were favoured by his
presence on more than one occasion subsequently ;
and when we came to understand him better, were
informed, I believe with much exaggeration, that he
had been regularly ordained at Kolyma by the Greek
priests, and commissioned. to convey Gospel tidings to —
his countrymen. His code of ethics was, however,
greatly at variance with that of our great Master.

He communicated his intention of proceeding shortly

AMATEUR THEATRICALS. 59

on a journey to some place which was evidently
Russian ; and by the time to be occupied in the
voyage (two months), and direction pomted out, I
have little doubt that the Fort on the Anadyr was
indicated. With a view to sending intelligence of our
whereabouts to England, a despatch was prepared for
the secretary of the Admiralty, with a request, in
French and German, to any one who might receive it,
to have it forwarded without delay.

Our friends soon became accustomed to masque-
rades, football, and other games, and took a lively
part in all; but plays were a little more mysterious ;
and when, on the 15th of December, the farce of
“The Way to Settle Accounts with your Laundress ”
was enacted, the reversed dummy in the water-butt,
imaginary victim of suicide, was considered to be an
acme of conjuring, and is, I believe, an unexplained
wonder to this day.

It was long before we were at all able to obtain
anything like a definite idea of the nature of their social
ladder ; there were evidently some of our friends who
were treated with superior consideration, and who,
when they visited us, always came attended by a
following, but they seldom attempted anything like
dictation to their suite. I am even now by no

means sure as to the actual conditions of rank. but

60 GRADATIONS OF RANK.

am disposed to consider them as threefold,—prina-
pally patriarchal, partly hereditary, and partly priestly.
There is, at the same time, no doubt that only
certain individuals were recognised as of a higher
condition, and these were much disposed to deny—at
any rate, to us—the pretensions of their fellows, while
they enlarged upon their own ; and in this, those who
by serfdom or inclination owned their individual
importance, supported their statements.

Of all whose position it gave us the greatest
trouble to determine, Akoull was certainly pre-eminent;
and it must be confessed that as a diplomatist he
far outstripped his comrades. Undoubtedly he was
a very clever fellow. I believe that even upon his
first. visit to the ship, while we were yet in the bay,
his Ime of conduct was decided upon. With the
comprehensive glance and intuitive appreciation of a
politician, he instantly divined, from the nature of our
society, the deference paid to our chiefs, and the
desire displayed to discover the leaders of his own
party, the great benefit which must accrue to the
seeming or actual possession of rank; and so with
equal assurance and astuteness he at once placed
himself foremost among them; and, although sub-
sequent circumstances led us to doubt the correctness

of his presumptions, he had so adroitly succeeded

AKOULL. 61

in rendering himself of service to us, and really by
his cunning exerted such great influence over his
companions, that we on all occasions treated him with
the consideration due to rank. I believe, indeed, that
his fortunes had formerly been more prosperous than
now; and that this, with the profession of Shama-
nism, which he undoubtedly practised, caused him
to be of some emimence in his tribe. His son was
married to the daughter of Metra, who was certainly
the wealthiest, and, but for his very quiet disposition,
would have been the almost undisputed chief of the

Tuski Proper in our immediate vicinity.

CHAPTER V.

Welcome little Stranger.—A merry Christmas.—A Christening.—A Visit
from the Aristocracy.—An ancient, Teo.—A canny lad, Enoch.—Miss
Propriety, Meeco.—Mi-yo, la Petite——The Diplomate, Akoull.—Bel-
conta the Clever.—A Child of Fortune, Metra the Slow.—Reindeer, a
Tableau.u—A Patriarch, Mooldoyah.—Yaneengah the Good.—The
Friend, Ahmoleen.— The Pet, Ka-oong-ah.— A queer fellow, Om-
dooyah.—Attah the Knowing.

On the 20th December the first birth since our
arrival occurred; and on this account, and also
because the little stranger was granddaughter to
both Metra and Akoull, its advent was celebrated by
a salute of twenty-one guns, and an extra masquerade
in the evening.

Christmas-day was observed with due form and
merriment. Our crew dined all together upon deck,
and the fare would have done no discredit to a more
genial clime and productive situation. A reindeer
roasted whole graced the centre of the board in a
dish made for the occasion; while the carcase of
“Poor Jack,” the sheep, at one end, was faced by
goodly rounds of spiced beef at the other. Numerous

CHRISTMAS. 63

entremets of preserved meats, with a plentiful supply
of vegetables and pickles, completed the first course,
which was followed by enormous puddings of plum,—
such as ati Englishman’s soul loveth,—and tarts of
cranberries, and other preserved fruits. An unlimited
supply of the sailor’s beverage assisted the consumption
of the edibles ; and our boys enjoyed a glorious repast,
assisted by a select few of their Tuski friends,
especially invited on the occasion. The hilarity was
great and undisturbed; and good feeling reached such
a pitch ere midnight, that the officers were succes-
sively carried round the ship with cheers and shouts
of rejoicing, which proceeding seemed to astonish our
native friends amazingly.

Next night a Christmas pantomime, composed on
board, was performed in a manner highly creditable
to all concerned in its preparation, and brought
down thunders of applause from pit and boxes.

On the 28th, Captain Moore, with two or three of
our number, went down to Woorel to christen the
child of Belconta, born on the 20th instant.
Rockets were sent up in celebration of the event;
and we were highly diverted to see a native run
after one of these, which, misplaced in firmg, darted
along the ground instead of mounting aloft. For-

tunately for him, he did not succeed in catching it.

G4 AMUSEMENTS AND EXCURSIONS.

As amusements were at this time the order of the
day, a greasy pole was erected upon the ice, sur-
mounted by a bottle of rum—a challenge to all
comers—and fine fun it created; nor was it until
late in the day that one of our men bore off the
prize in triumph. We ended 1848 by ringing out
his venerable majesty, and ushered in the infant heir
with a joyous peal.

One or two excursions had been undertaken during
December ; but it was not till 1849 had commenced
that they assumed a place in our regular pursuits.
It took some time to establish ourselves firmly with
our new friends, and to enable us to feel quite secure
among them when removed from the protection of
our ship and her resources. Hitherto, also, our
imperfect acquaintance with the language formed an
impediment; but now that the way to a more
extended and less guarded imtercourse was opened,
many very interesting trips were made. The ones I
was myself engaged upon I shall mention in their
order; and these cover, with little intermission, the
period from January until May.

On the 8th of January, whether by accident or
design, I cannot say, we were invaded by an influx of
distinguished visitors. 'The first who arrived was the

Chief of Oongwysac, Teo, his daughters Meeco and

DISTINGUISHED VISITORS. 65

Mi-yo, and his two sons. Teo had already scen
many summers, and was infirm; he was, moreover,
quite lame, having received a disabling wound in
bygone years from Mooldooyah, who in some
quarrel had bitten him desperately in the leg, and
crippled him for life. Teo was deaf and taciturn, and,
when he spoke, articulated with hesitation and
difficulty, being apparently afflicted with palsy or
paralysis. | He was, notwithstanding, a very pleasant
and well-disposed old gentleman; a little crusty at
times, perhaps, but very well in all. He brought some
handsome presents for the captain—among others, a
sealskm tanned and bleached perfectly white, orna-
mented all over in painting and staining with figures
of men, boats, animals, and delineations of whale
fishing, &c.,—a valuable curiosity.

Enoch, his son, was in many respects a type of his
father ; but qualities which in the elder might pass
for wisdom and deliberation were im the son but
apparent indications of a sordid nature ; and such I
believe was the case. No athletic exercises for Enoch,
no employments and amusements, such as the young
men of his own age practised,—these were rarely his
occupations. Rather would he sit the livelong day in
his compartment of his father’s yarang, fingermg and

fussmg over his queer little two-stringed fiddle, or

F

66 ENOCH AND MEECO.

some other equally quaint article; or with knife of
tiny size and crooked blade, scoop out some toy or
model from fragment of wood or ivory, to be disposed
of to the Atwoits Callowole upon the first oppor-
tunity and most favourable terms ; for Enoch was no
spendthrift fool to dissipate in fruitless gifts the
results of his industry and ingenuity, both of which
he possessed in plenty. Enoch was small, and
neither so well shaped nor so vigorous as his coun-
trymen generally ; indeed, if I recollect right, he had
in youth received a spinal injury, from which he
still suffered; his face bore the sallow tinge of ~
delicate health, and his hair, which he wore long, was
of a lighter hue than was generally seen. It would
not indeed be unreasonable to conjecture him to be of
mixed descent. In all his communications with us,
and they were frequent, Enoch’s manner was subdued
and obliging: he evidently avoided jars or breaches
of good feeling, alike with us and his own com-
panions.

Teo’s eldest daughter, Meeco, was a strapping lass,
who conducted all arrangements with perfect self-
possession and good-humour, and attended to her
decrepit father with exemplary attention. Neither
her features, mien, nor manners, with some slight
exception, would have disgraced a more civilised

a

AKOULL THE DIPLOMATE. 67

region. We afterwards saw much of her; and
whether abroad or installed as mistress of her father’s
large yarang, which she managed without control or
interference, Meeco was Propriety’s self.

Mi-yo, the second daughter, was much younger
and smaller than her sister; a quiet, pretty little
eirl, who said little and smiled much. Both the
sisters pleased us much by their looks of superior
cleanliness. Akoull and Belconta soon arrived. It
was evidently part of the former’s arrangement that
we should never be permitted to communicate with
strangers or men of influence without his presence and
assistance, if possible; or, at any rate, his immediate
cognisance of the event by means of one of his many
spies: assuredly friend Akoull had a keen under-
standing, and a ready fund of assurance which stood
him in good stead on many ominous occasions, and
would have conducted him to wealth and distinction
in other lands where they are sharpened by competi-
tion, and more speedily appreciated than among these
people of simple mind. Akoull was a just embodi-
ment of his moral qualities, small, shrivelled, and
yellow, yet of nervous and active development and
habits ; of speech low-toned, fluent, and msinuating,
with small quick eyes, sparklmg and restless, stealthy

step and deferential address, he looked himself—
F 2

68 BELCONTA.

a wily, calculating schemer. His son, Belconta, was
one of the most intelligent among the tribe, and if he
possessed hike cunning to his father’s, took care to con-
ceal it ; he excelled in those exercises which call for
efforts of mental power, being, for instance, a skilful
charioteer and unrivalled trainer of dogs ; he displayed
a greater capability than the rest for acquirmg
information, and speedily learned many of our words
and even sentences: he was a particular favourite
with some, and upon the whole was generally liked by
our party; nor was he ever included in the suspicions
of double dealing which were more than once raised
against his parent.

Belconta was of small stature, light and well-
proportioned, with cleanly-cut features, good expres-
sion, and clear complexion; his general aspect was
prepossessing, and this was certainly required m the
family as a set-off against that of his father, which
was decidedly sinister. He played the fiddle, was
a constant visitor at the ship, and took an animated
part in our diversions, ever showing a disposition to
oblige.

On the return of Messrs. Martin and Simpson from
Wootair, whither they had been ona visit, they were
accompanied by Metra, of whom I have already

spoken, and some of his family. Metra will figure

METRA. ~ 69

much in my narrative, and was a person of great
wealth and importance ; but I fear that in attempting
to present his picture it will be difficult to delineate
any remarkable points; he was, in fact, a very
uninteresting individual, and but for his position
must have remained unnoticed among the common
herd. How often do adventitious circumstances
render men, possessing in themselves no points of
prominence, objects of importance and_ celebrity.
Metra was no longer young; his hair had already
begun to silver, and a few crows’-feet marked the
progress of time, but he had doubtless worn well,
being oppressed probably by few cares, and promised
to enjoy a green old age; his form had lost little of
its roundness and muscular development, and he
could show, when he pleased—which was, however,
seldom—well-nigh as great activity as the youngsters,
but his ordinary movements were rather snail-like and
he was evidently not accustomed either to hurry or to
put himself at all out of the way for any one ; indeed,
I should say, if such a thing ever occurs among the
Tuski, that Metra had been a petted child for whom all
services were performed by obsequious attendants, the
natural indolence of his character alone preserving it
from material deterioration. Like Teo, Metra was

not a man of many words; he had a great partiality

70 A SLOW COACH.

for the Russian word Toroma, meaning, I believe,
welcome, and this he brought in on all occasions, not
always suitably, but it was of little consequence ; he
had not, I venture to conclude, many ideas in play at
one period, and as they circulated but slowly in the
caverns of his brain, Toroma came in, I fancy, very
conveniently as a stop-gap to conversation while he
had time to replace one thought by the next ; occa-
sionally, however, Metra displayed latent powers of
mind scarcely to be expected; dry, quaint, and often
even caustic humour, showed that there was still
something better than dross beneath the surface; and
as he was a very shrewd old gentleman at a bargain,
I do not thmk we ought to dismiss him from our
sketch as altogether a simpleton, but rather afford him
the designation of s/ow.

All these visitors had arrived in their sledges, drawn
by dogs, of which Metra and Belconta possessed the
finest teams in the country ; but a new and delightful
spectacle was afforded us later in the afternoon, by the
arrival of Mooldooyah, his wife, son, and friend, each
driving two reindeer harnessed to his sledge. I cannot
describe the emotions we experienced at this sight,
so novel and so interesting ; no other incident, since
the first view of the natives in their atwoits in the

bay, produced so vivid a remembrance of the distance

ON iim
Wi
aa ial
:
;

*

Ss if

A MAOS

REVIEW OF OUR POSITION. 71

which lay between us and our homes, and of the
strange people we were now among.

In our first interview with the Tuski, after the
immediate surprise and novelty had passed, we were
too much employed with our own affairs to pay parti-
cular attention to each peculiarity upon its primary
exhibition, and thus many points of striking interest
had become familiar, while we neglected to notice
them with due attention. But this incident recalled
all the strangeness of our position to mind; one
view of the tableau presented renewed the fresh-
ness and interest of this phase of our lives. Lofty
rugged mountains, majestic and snow-bewrapped,
surrounded the ice-bound harbour, now clad in a
smooth, almost unbroken mantle of dazzling white ;
the Atwoit resting upon its bosom like a bird upon
the water, now long located in her icy home, and
with snow upon the roof and masts, and a ridge
of broken ice around her, added to the strangeness
of the scene; while the crew, clad in all varieties
of costume, from the semi-military to a close proxi-
mity with the dresses of our friends, mingling with
the Tuski in their curious habiliments, now also
beginning to evidence their intercourse with us by
scraps of Huropean manufacture, intermixed with

their own dresses—nearly a hundred dogs, with

ihea CARE OF ANIMALS.

numerous sledges—and, to crown all, the new arrivals,
with their reindeer, filled up the picture which
needed nothing more to complete its picturesque and
peculiar beauty. These beautiful animals, attached
only by light traces to the sledges, and with long reins
of carefully dressed and rounded hide, fastened to their
horns, their long loose coats smooth and glossy—for
the Tuski pay great attention to their tame draught
animals—branching antlers, soft, lustrous eyes, pen-
dant dewlaps, and slender springing fetlocks, looked
models of docility, endurance, and speed.
Mooldooyah, paterfamilias and leader of the party,
was a man of enormous mould and striking appear-
ance. By far the largest of his tribe, he stood
considerably above six feet in height, with limbs
and figure of massive development, increased by
an inclination to obesity, which his mature years
had begun to display. His face, now large, round,
and heavy, had, 1 should imagine, once been hand-
some, being redeemed from the ordinary flat form
of his fellows by a straight strong nose and well-
marked brows; his forehead was broad and low;
mouth and chin heavy and sensual. Like the majority
of gigantic men, Mooldooyah’s temperament was of a
phlegmatic turn, and this was a fortunate condition

of his existence; for, when roused, which rarely

MOOLDOOYAH. 15

occurred, Mooldooyah was terrible in his anger.
Ordinarily he was stolid, mactive, and good-tempered,
took all things with exemplary patience, let every
one, particularly his wife, of whom he was justly
very fond, do as they pleased, and showed a great
dishke to standing ; added to this, he eat and drank
in proportion to his vast. bulk, and smoked as often
as he could afford it, which, after I knew him, was
very nearly all day long.

Yaneenga, the wife of Mooldooyah, was, in my
estimation, without an equal of her sex in the tribe,
when all points of comparison were considered ; true,
Mi-yo, the charming petfe sister of Meeco, the amiable
wife of Yappo, and the fair dame of Mahkatzan,
might each dispute with her the palm of beauty ;
but these were still quite young, while Yaneenga’s
charms had merged into the fuller figure of the
matron: but who, like Yaneenga, bore so unvaried
a countenance of good-humour ?—who, like her, was
always amiable, always thoughtful for the wants or
comforts of those around her? Of the tallest among her
sex, large and robust, yet of rounded and well-formed
figure, with an easy, dignified carriage, which was
never ungraceful, a countenance originally very
handsome, though now full and slightly coarse, eyes

of liquid jet, ever sparkling and beaming with good

74 AHMOLEEN.

humour, features generally good, but whose effect
was much injured by the lips, which, enclosing large
strong regular teeth of pearly whiteness, were too
full and heavy for a delicate taste, neat and well-
made garments put on with judgment, small feet
and hands, and an open engaging manner, marked
my friend Yaneenga as one of the best and worthiest
specimens of her tribe. I shall have much more to
say of her and her husband presently, so will now pass
to their son, Ah-mo-leen, of whom I recorded a trait
honourable to his character, on the occasion of pur-
chasing his coat at an early stage of our acquaintance.

Ahmoleen, now the eldest son, was only inferior
to his father im stature and size, and being much
younger was less unwieldy in figure ; in other respects
he greatly resembled Mooldooyah, was a little more
lively, and of course much more active; but his good
temper and forbearing disposition were equally con-
spicuous, nor did he ever take undue advantage of
his great superiority of physical strength. I believe,
notwithstanding his inactivity, that Mooldooyah was
even now much more powerful than his son; but
next to him Ahmoleen was chief in size and strength.
Mooldooyah often lamented to me, in moving terms,
the death of an elder son, who so greatly surpassed

Ahmoleen in physical development, that, as he

KA-OONG-AH AND OMDOOYAH. 75d

expressed it to me, he could have taken Ahmoleen by
the middle and dashed him down upon the earth.

Ka-oong-ah, the little daughter of Yaneenga, almost
the realisation of one’s idea of what she herself must
have been as a child, concludes my present detail of
this party ; she was lithe of limb, prattling, rosy, and
merry as a bird, a most ingenious little sempstress,
and delighted to make all sorts of queer little bags
and gloves and dolls for me, whose especial favourite
she was, and whom it was her delight to plague.

In addition to these personages we were favoured
by the presence of Mahkatzan, black, oily, and
grasping; Omdooyah, and his wife, Attah. Now,
Omdooyah, although not a chief, was such a very
queer fellow, that I cannot refrain from noticmg some
of his peculiarities ; and Attah was so unceasing and
troublesome, but at the same time so very useful a
visitor, that she likewise deserves a moment’s atten-
tion. Omdooyah was an original of the first water,
and a very funny one to boot. First as to personnel :
he was unlike everybody else ; his frame was large and
somewhat heavy, and in this he slightly resembled
our friend Mooldooyah, but here all comparison
ended. His frame was broad and square, but loose
and ungainly, with limbs which constantly disputed

their mutual affinity, and ever played at hide and

76 A QUEER FELLOW.

seek with each other ; a demeanour generally impas-
sible, but upon the successful conclusion of his
frequent jokes lighting up in an inexpressibly ludicrous
manner; a face round and flat as the full moon, with
a dab for a nose, and a gash for a mouth, around
which, and the saucer-like eyes inclining at an angle
to the nose, sly mirth and mischief-lovmg wrinkles
lay crowding together: Omdooyah was absolutely
overflowing with fun; everything served him for a
joke, enjoyment of which was heightened by the quiet
yet irresistibly droll way in which it was perpetrated,
and a sort of half-unconscious, half-quizzing expression
which used to excite us to screams of laughter. No
matter whether for or against himself, the fun must
be had, and he must do it. The quintessence of
good nature too, was Omdooyah, the personification
of good will to his fellows. We often, to our shame
be it recorded, tried to put him into a passion by some
practical joke, for we loved fun as well in that snowy
clime as in more genial regions ; but it was of no avail ;
the only result was a grin which made his mouth look
hke the 'Tower moat, and a sly return of the jest
presently. I dare say he thought it was too much trouble
to get in a rage; besides there was no fun in that, so
it was too dull work. Omdooyah was one of our

especial favourites, and this entirely from his own

ATTAH. RE

amiability ; he had unrestrained ingress to the ship,
to our mess, and to our cabins, and was never a
burden because he had withal such innate good sense,
I may even say delicacy of perception, that we were
never under fear of his intrusion when preoccupied,
nor of interference in our communications with others;
if he found or thought himself de trop, he would
either quietly seek some other locality, or seat himself,
hke a half-pay leutenant in the waiting-room at the
Admiralty, to await the leisure of those he sought,
studying the objects around, which were already as
familiar to him as the furniture of the aforesaid
waiting-room is to myself, with a degree of interest
and attention only justified by his want of occupation.

Now for his worthy spouse. Attah was what is
very generally called ‘exceedingly plain,” which
means, I suppose, plainly ugly; any juvenile charms,
any dimpled beauties which might have graced her
visage in more favourable seasons, had fled for ever :
wrinkles and puckers held despotic sway there, now
rendered less inviting by long accumulations of dit,
for Attah was regardless of the greatest of human
comforts, and was ever in a sad condition of untidi-
ness and filth. Attah’s own definition of herself
would probably have led one to imagine that her

- disposition was of the most obliging nature, that her

78 ATTAH.

sole delight was to be useful to those around her ; and
so indeed it might appear to a casual observer. But I
must be less charitable and more just to her character,
having had irrefragable proofs of a totally different
leanmg. Think not it was the performance of a service
which delighted the dame; true, she was ever ready,
ever officiously volunteering to be of use, but far other
was the aim of her readiness, of her activity, than
the promptings of a benevolent nature ; alas! we must
admit with regret that the chief object of Attah, in all
her domgs, was the remuneration which should follow
their completion. Yes; for “ tok,’ which, though
strictly meaning barter, is also used for payment or gift,
she would do anything. Being always at hand, very
quick in her motions, having ever a smiling face, and
chattermg away in great style, she was at first con-
sidered a kind, willing creature, whom it was a
pleasure to employ and reward; but she presumed
upon the favour shown her, displayed jealousy and
sulks when other ladies were engaged to perform any
slight service with the needle, and became, moreover,
so exacting m her demands, and so determinately
importunate for gifts, that she was at last unanimously
voted a bore, and fell into complete disfavour. Yet a
funny creature was Attah, and generally a merry one ;

her antics were inimitably ridiculous and grotesque,

ATTAH. 79

and accompanied by grimaces which gave one pain
by sympathy at the unnatural distortion of feature ;
she possessed a turn for comedy and mimic displays,
and this was often exercised for our amusement and

—her profit.

CHAPTER VI.

Friends.— Presents.—Tuski Preferences.—A Laé-lo6p—The Tuski Dandy.
—A State Visit.—Curious Dances.—The Oldest Inhabitant.—The
Dead.— New Ideas.— Wootair.—Appearance of the Country.— A
Chief's Yarang.—The Sea.

Sucu an unexpected influx of distinguished visitors
obliged us to use exertion for their entertaimment
and reception. The sledges were carefully disposed
upon the roof and ice-plank, and the dogs secured in
their respective bands, on the forecastle or round the
ship ; the remdeer could not very well be brought on
board, and moreover required their suppers, which
our store of blubber and _ half-putrid walrus flesh,
kept for our dogs, and now borrowed from to feed
those of our guests, would not serve to supply ; they
were therefore driven off for the mght to one of the
neighbouring valleys, where moss abounded. My
acquaintance with Mooldooyah and his family had by
this time, by mutual liking, warmed into a sincere
and durable friendship. I had early been impressed

with a favourable opinion of their kind and generous

FRIENDS AND THEIR PRESENTS. 8]

natures, first created probably by my transaction with
the son concerning the coat. Subsequent intercourse
confirmed me in my regard for them ; I found strong
affection and a self-denying disposition existing with
them towards each other, and was delighted to bea
sharer in their regards. Between them and myself
the usual business of barter was never employed ; gifts
were interchanged without thought of a bargain ;
whatever I needed had but to be whispered to be
immediately supplied; while presents of all kinds,
some of them really valuable, poured in upon me in
a manner quite embarrassmg. I do not mean to
assume that all this was done without expectation of
a return, but I am quite sure that my gifts, especially
at first, were inadequate to the worth of theirs.
Yaneenga had now brought me the entire carcase of
a reindeer, a pair of mitts, stockings, and breeches,
all of fawn skin, of superior beauty and dressing,
and her joy was infinitely greater at giving than my
really very great delight at receiving so handsome a
present. The deer was by the local regulations yielded
up for the use of the ship’s company in common, but
the other articles were carried to my cabin and neatly
disposed in the drawers by Yaneenga, who was well
nigh as much pleased at performing this act of

confidential service as in the bestowal of her gifts,

G

. SB, FOOD.

which, although presented by her individually, were
of course understood to be from her husband and
son also.

Our friends were distributed between the cabin and
gun-room, and supplied with refreshment ; but only
a few of our edibles were relished by them, the
preserved meats in particular being held in very light
estimation generally, a few natives only, who per-
severed in eating them, gaining an acquired taste for
their flavour. Ithink that the spices employed in their
preparation were especially disagreeable to the native
palate. On one occasion, 1 remember a number of
young men, “ just arrived from the country,” rejecting
with disgust a large tin of delicious beef, which had
not been bestowed upon them without murmurs of
dissatisfaction, and only because there was an absolute
necessity to provide them with food. As they would
not eat this, we had nothing left but some blubber
which had been purchased for the dogs and for oil ;
this was offered them as a dernier resort, but our
fears for its favourable reception might have been
spared ; it was devoured with the greatest avidity.
Of all our stores, those most preferred were biscuit,
sugar, raisins, or indeed anythmg sweet, and also
almonds, of which we had a quantity in our private

stock. The passion for sugar was general; great and

THE LA-LOOP. 83

small begged for it in preference to all else, and -
a morsel for a “1a-lodp” would make its possessor
happy for the day. What on earth isa la-lodp? 1
hear the reader ask. Know, then, that this source of
delight consisted of a fragment of leaf tobacco which
enveloped the scrap of sugar before-mentioned, and
was placed carefully in the cheek, where it remained
undisturbedly dispensing its liquid medley of sweet
and bitter to the imfimite content of its consumer.
Many a brow of cloudy aspect have I smoothed and
rendered smiling and serene by a well-timed application
of this little luxury.

In the evening a masquerade was arranged for the
amusement of our visitors, some of whom, become
familiar with the fun, took an active share in the
festivities ; of these were Omdooyah and his dame,
Inopincha, the lady who munched the candle, and
another person whose real name I quite forget, for
we never called him by it ; we knew him only as the
Tchouski dandy.

I suppose it is an inevitable provision of all
societies that some few among their components are
doomed to act the popinjay, and seek to be esteemed
by their outward show. The votary of Bond-street,
the petit-maitre of the Boulevards, were here fitly

. represented by our Tuski friend; his dress was
a2

84. A DANDY.

cut and donned im a manner entirely differing
from the mode adopted by his fellows; pendant
tags of leather, each strip having a bead, and ‘scraps
of dyed fur aptly mimicked the frogs and_ braids
of his more advanced brother m fashion; nor was
he blind to the indispensable qualifications of the
fop; his cap and mocassins were as carefully selected
as hat and boots elsewhere. Thus bedecked and
bedizened, he strutted on the scene with an air of
self-satisfaction and of admiration, which, while it
provoked a smile, incited rather melancholy reflections
on the likeness of man here and elsewhere. Our
guests were as much diverted as we could desire,
and night was far encroached upon ere they were
all disposed in slumber.

On the 15th of January, the day being very fine
and clear, Captain Moore determined to go in state to
Woorel, to make a formal presentation of christening
gifts to the child baptised on the 28th of December.
Attended by a numerous train, his sledge tastefully
arranged and surmounted by the Union Jack, he
departed on his errand, and a short time sufficed
to bring the party to their destination, where
epaulettes were donned, and the presents displayed.
They consisted of a black fur dress lined with white
fox-skin, bracelets and necklace of beads, the latter

CHRISTENING PRESENTS. 85

made in the form of a cross, and some other articles
of dress and ornament, making a very tolerable show.
After considerable delay the child was brought out
for the inspection of its sponsors, and a poor little
wretch it looked; dirty, shivermg, and blind from
accumulation of serous matter, the result of neglected
ophthalmia. It was very soon withdrawn into the
recesses of its paternal dwelling, alike to its own and
our relief; and the ceremony wound up by an
interchange of good wishes, and the distribution of
some of our treasures of provision to the leading
members of the village, and a scramble of raisins to
the children, which put them in high glee.

The fiddle had been brought to aid in the fun, and
was soon in requisition to accompany the motions of
a troop of merry girls, who, hand in hand, crowded
full of glee round the performer, urging a speedy
commencement of his music, by mimicry and pan-
tomimic gibe. When he struck up a tune they
receded in a half moon with mincing step and
fantastic evolutions of the head and arms ; the centre
then approached, and wings receded; then all
alternately approached and retired ex masse, as if to
tempt their musician to follow, who soon willingly
humoured their bent and imitated their motions.

This continued for a while, when the dancers broke

86 A CURIOUS DANCE,

their line and dispersed, re-formed once or twice
behind the player, and advanced upon him unawares ;
and finally yielded up their places to three funny
little creatures, whose performances absolutely con-
vulsed us with laughter; the dance they practised
is very common among the children, but we now
saw it for the first time, and considered it a truly
remarkable spectacle. The dresses of the females are
made very full and hang in folds; in children they
make the figure look podgy and squat, and so the
three actresses appeared as they faced us in a row,
with their toes turned in and their hands tucked
into opposite sleeves. The attitude before commencing
was mirth-provoking; but how shall I succeed in
conveying a just appreciation of their subsequent
movements? It is I fear impossible; no art could
properly pourtray the scene, the inimitable gestures
or the unrivalled archness of the whole affair. Sway-
ing bodily, with a shght jump to either side, the
outside ones faced or turned themselves from the
centre child by turns, she appearing alternately to
court and repel their advances ; thus they continued,
while repeating in a measured chant ‘“ Cah—po—
moingén, melotah, noingén,’ at the end of which
all suddenly jumped quite round, and saying, wm—wm

—wum, with a sort of satisfied enunciation, threw

AND ITS EXPLANATION, 87

into their bodies three of the most extraordinary
contortions I ever beheld. No one could resist the
last manceuvre ; we all screamed with laughter, which
brought tears into our eyes; indeed I never witnessed
this most ridiculous dance without a return of my
present mirth. I have never been able to translate
to my satisfaction the words they used on these
occasions ; but as they almost imvariably derive their
amusements from natural models, and as I knew
moingen to be a mouse or an ermine, melotah, a rabbit
or hare, and zoimgen to mean tail, I venture, from a
consideration of the pantomimic motions displayed,

to render the sentence thus—

Cah-pé moingen melotah noingen,
Catch ermine rabbit tail,

or, ermine catch rabbit by the tail; the final expres-
sions, Um—um—um, might signify that the chase was
successfully accomplished, and their accompanying
wriggles personate the struggles of the victim—for
ermine do catch rabbits, though I never heard of
their choosing the tail as the best spot for a grip,
their aim being, I believe, invariably the back of
the neck.

Before we departed from the village, its “ oldest
inhabitant ” was brought out to satisfy her curiosity

respecting the strangers; but she, poor soul, was

88 THE ‘‘ OLDEST INHABITANT.”

stone blind, so could only feel our clothes and faces,
lingering in surprise upon our beards, which were by
this time of a very respectable length: she seemed
much gratified when Captain Moore spoke to her and
gave her a little tobacco. Her age was guessed at
hazard to be about eighty, but with the exception of
sight none of her senses seemed to be impaired, and
her blindness appeared rather the result of disease
than of age, her eyes being bleared and sore, and
running with rheum. Indeed ophthalmia is more or
less very prevalent here, principally induced I should
think by snow blindness and neglect.

We were much shocked to see near the village
stages erected, upon which the dead were laid, and
exposed alike to the attacks of the elements and of
the numerous crows, or rather ravens of immense size,
which abound in great numbers, and are literally the
scavengers of the country. These birds have wonderful
power of beak; with a single blow I have known one
of them pierce the side of a dead and hard frozen
dog, penetrating right through to the entrails.

An earnest endeavour was made on this occasion
to show Omdooyah and Attah, who lived here, how
shocking was this practice of exposing the dead ;
but although they appeared to understand the appeal,

it made I fear little impression on their cold natures,

“TRIP TO WOOTAIR. 89

long accustomed to this frightful habit. It was also
attempted to explain to them that neither moon
nor stars are fire, as they supposed, but worlds,
probably inhabited like our own; this seemed to
be astounding information, and the kah, kah, kahs,
were frequent. Attah was readily made to under-
stand the difference of treatment attending the practice
of good and evil: that if failmg to do well, she would
be subject to fire for a long, long time; and if domg
rightly, would ascend to the skies and be happy. Her
signs of comprehension on this occasion were touch-
ingly simple ; she pointed to the lips of her instructor,
and to her own ears, then laying one hand upon her
heart, with the other she took his hand, and pressed
it affectionately.

On the 23rd of January a trip was taken to
Wootair, the village m which Metra and Mooldooyah
resided. The party consisted of Captam Moore, Mr.
Lindsay, and myself, with some of the natives.
Proceeding down Emma’s harbour, and for a con-
siderable distance up the western arm of the bay,
we struck mght across country to the westward.
Soon after quitting the ice, our road wound up a
most tremendous ascent of between two and three
miles in length: all were here obliged to dismount,

and even assist the dogs in their labour, and we had

90 ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY.

often to stop to breathe, both dogs and men, so steep
and laborious was the acclivity. We were quite
delighted when the sun became once more visible over
the ridge as we attained the summit, where a lengthened
halt was made while the party partook of refreshment
with a keen relish. We were now upon a large and
level plain, which from its appearance and advantageous
situation for irrigation from the surrounding hills,
should afford in temperate seasons most excellent
pasture. It comprised an area of seven or eight
square miles, encompassed by hills, snow-clad from
summit to base, excepting only where abrupt over-
hanging ledges of rock formed an obstruction to the
deposit of drift, or where enormous blocks and gigantic
pinnacles of the same material, apparently red granite,
were numerous, frequently assuming extraordinarily
fantastic shapes, as in an instance pointed out by
Captain Moore, where a perpendicular piece pre-
sented an exact resemblance to an old man with a
pipe in his mouth.

We had here a very excellent view of three
distinct chains of hills, all of similar configuration,
and evidently, as well as the adjacent eminences,
and indeed the whole of the mountaims in this part
of the country, of volcanic formation, mostly in an

advancing stage, but in many, extinct craters might

ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 91

be traced. The wind from the S.W. was strong,
and here swept down over the hills in eddies,
raising a heavy snow-drift, which made us all look
like millers. Upon the opposite side of the plain
we had to descend a long hill, which was not nearly
so steep as that by which we mounted. At its
foot lay a frozen sheet of water, m1 which, we were
informed, was plenty of fish: this was either a lake
or the estuary of a small river which we presently
crossed: no tidal marks could be sought for, as its
edges were covered with snow. Our road now lay
through a long and narrow valley, at the end of which
another, but short hill, had to be ascended; mdeed
we were running across the spurs of a mountain-range,
and traversed hill and vale until we reached the shore
of a very large lake, called Yeem-too-oon, four or five
miles broad, and from twelve to fifteen in length.
This affords plenty of fish, and we saw upon it a
number of persons engaged in fishing or seal watching.
This lake was crossed, and we had now another
toilsome ascent to encounter; arrived at the summit
of which, a comprehensive view of Wootair was
presented, spreading over a large extent of land.
The huts belonging to Mooldooyah and his family
were five in number, situated upon an abrupt hill
overlooking those, twenty in all, which lay in the plain

92 DANGEROUS TRAVELLING.

below where Metra’s yarang was. Mooldooyah, with
his wife and son, who accompanied us on the journey
as guides, now branched off to their own habitation ;
the rest of the party continuing the journey over a
rough descent, which soon became most precipitous, |
and indeed dangerous to inexperienced drivers. ‘The ;
sledges flew down this at a frightful pace, frequently
running over the dogs; and here strong nerves were
very useful, as a single false turn would have precipi-
tated us down a shelf, seventy or eighty feet high,
upon the ice. Reaching the bottom in safety, we
made a short détour over a frozen inlet, and then up
the opposite bank to that just quitted, which brought
us directly in’ front of Metra’s yarang, to which we
immediately repaired. This yarang was very much
larger than any we had before visited, the compart-
ments higher and broader, and infinitely cleaner than
the disgustingly dirty habitations we had hitherto seen
at Woorel ; nor were vile odours perceptible, such as
there assailed our nostrils. We entered the part of
the dwelling appropriated to Metra and his wife,
which was kept in beautiful order—a credit to the
untiring diligence of the matron. Caymgliche, Metra’s
wife, suffered I think greatly from ill health, and seldom
left her yarang, preferring also, I believe, the charms
of her household duties to the rather doubtful

DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 93

enjoyment of what is sometimes called ‘ gadding
about.” At any rate she generally staid at home, and
was a hard-working, bustling, tidy soul as one would
desire to see, a little shrewish perhaps, scolding some-
what occasionally, but then those men were so
careless! and gave so much trouble! her asperity
must not be wondered at. And really the place was
very neat, the walrus hides on the ground were bright
and clear, not a speck to be seen upon them; not a
stray hair, which come out of the reindeer skins m
plenty, was ever permitted to remain after the night-
coverings were removed; the wooden vessels were
bright as dairy pails, and the oil in the lamps was
always carefully purified, and the weet-o-weet [moss]
wicks arranged with scrupulous regularity. By the
by, there is considerable skill required in the manage-
ment of these lamps: the moss, which has been care-
fully cleansed, dried, and picked, is put into the dish
by hand, but after that it is only touched with a small
flat stick, used in the most dexterous manner—a touch
here and a flick there—to replace any stray morsel ;
then a rapid pass from one end of the ridge to the
other, which knocks off the snuffy portions and clears
the whole line of flame ; and lo! the lamp burnsbrightly
again. The women are very jealous of these ; no man

ever thinks of touching them, and it was the greatest

94, A COOL RECEPTION.

trial we could make of the ladies’ good humour to take
up the trimmer or stick and commence to trim the
light, which I may as well mention we never learned
to do properly, and even Yaneenga, in whose yarang I
could do just as I liked, though she never prevented
me, yet was always in a fidget until I ceased meddling
with the lamp; one must be careful too in this
operation; or else the well-nigh boiling oil spatters
over face and hands most unpleasantly.

From some cause unexplained, Metra did not
appear to evince great pleasure at our visit; he
seemed cool, and his manner constrained; and
this was the more to be wondered at, as Messrs.
Simpson and Martin, who had paid a visit here some
days before, gave a most flattermg account of their
treatment. I did not, indeed, expect Metra, whose
manner was always so very deliberate, to display
any frantic demonstrations of delight; but I was
obliged to coincide with the view that the agreeability
of our visit was more than questionable, which was
surprising, as this honour was rarely paid by our
chief. We had not, however, come so long a distance
to sit down in displeasure and discomfort, and
accordingly made all necessary arrangements for the
night’s sojourn, the first consideration being to make

some tea and take supper. ‘To our own provision

, VES ee oe eee

AMUSEMENTS. 95

was added some venison, boiled in the establishment ;
of which, however, from the delectable flavour of
oil, &c., which pervaded it, a very slight taste sufficed,
and we finished from our own stores. Supper over,
the presents were displayed and distributed by
Captain Moore: they comprised a saw, knives, beads,
needles, and tobacco, and gave the recipients great
delight. After this, determined to keep our spirits
up, although the place was fearfully hot—90° of
Fahrenheit—various efforts at amusement were tried :
the power of the magnet was shown; and the sight
of some needles, which were made by means of it to
dance to music, threw the natives into amazement at
our superior mode of conjurmg. Next we had some
songs, with the fiddle accompaniment. I suppose
pretty well two-thirds of the inhabitants of the village
were crowded into the hut ; the curtain of the apart-
ment in which we sat was raised, and the space filled
up with dusky heads, wedged into a compact mass ;
wild shouts and tones of wonder testified their delight
and astonishment at our doings. When we ceased,
a native dancer, or conjuror, appeared, and, seating
himself in the space before us, performed a number of
fantastic contortions of face and figure, all in a sitting
posture, and accompanied by a continued beating of his
large drum, the noise of which was in that confined

96 WOOTAIR.

space quite deafening. Receiving a small present of
tobacco, he gave place to two young girls, who,
standing, rehearsed a variety of children’s dances—
if that could be called dancimg where the feet were
never lifted; they were rather mimic displays of some
subject unknown to us. After these and some other
actors had concluded their performances, we signified
our desire to repose; the numerous gazers were then
dismissed, curtains let down, skins of the deer and
sheep arranged for bedclothes, and all cold air care-
fully excluded by tucking the bottoms of the pendent
walls closely under the inner skins. ‘The lights were
then extinguished, one only being reserved in the outer
area, where the dogs lay; and we passed the might
very pleasantly, the apartment being warm, without
being oppressive.

Wootair lies upon the shore of a shallow bay,
indenting northwards ; a small shallow river, which
we crossed in coming, runs into it. The coast as far
as this runs nearly west, but from a bold headland
projecting from the western extremity of the bay, it
trends to the northward. We were told that the
river was not more than knee-deep, and only afforded
fish about the size of sprats; its outlet could not well
be defined, snow-drift so completely disguising the

correct formation of the land. Exposed to the whole

GULF OF ANADYR. 97

drift of the Gulf of Anadyr, the sea here is rarely
frozen over, and then insecurely: it was now quite
open, a speck on the horizon, evidently the land
floe blown off by the wind, now strong and cold from
the northward, being the only ice visible. This open
water is very favourable to the natives, who have thus
a chance of catching whales and walrus during the
winter season ; the matter is of no consequence as
regards seals, as they will bite through the ice to
reach the surface, where they love to lie, alone or in

numbers, frequently for hours.

CHAPTER VII.

Mooldooyah’s Hospitality.—Polygamy.—The Queen of the Yarang.—Repu-
diation——The Contrast.—Reindeer and their Flesh.—Mooldooyah’s
Music.—-Return to the ‘“ Plover.”—Oong-wy-sac.—Distortion of Past

Events.—Perplexity and Perseverance.—Tidings.—Return to the
ship.

Our intention of remaining here awhile was altered
in consequence of the bad weather, which prevented
the acquisition of other than very cursory information
respecting the position and configuration of the coast,
and we therefore prepared to shift our quarters to the
habitation of Mooldooyah, not to visit whom would
have appeared invidious and slighting. The indi-
cations of our removal were very distasteful to Metra
and his wife, who endeavoured to persuade us to stay ;
but they had really annoyed us so much by their
demeanour, that this had no effect. Captain Moore
walked up to Mooldooyah’s hut in advance of Lindsay
and myself, who waited for the sledges and baggage ;
but friend Metra was very sulky, and would not
deign to assist us in catching the dogs, which we

were really incompetent to do; and it was only after

POLYGAMY. 99

frequent appeal and some reproach that assistance
was afforded. ‘The bags which contained our instru-
ments, stores, and presents, were left in the tent until
we were ready to start; and on fetching them,
Lindsay observed Caymgliche inspecting the interior of
one, hurriedly closing it upon his entrance. True,
nothing was missed, and curiosity might have been
the motive, but this was a breach of the duties of
hospitality sufficiently blameable. -

I have briefly noticed the size of Metra’s
yarang, but should mention also the cause of so
much space being required, and its distribution.

I have not before spoken of the practice of polygamy,
which almost universally prevails among the Tuski,
and this custom is more than usually remarkable
from the singular circumstances attending it. As a
general principle, I believe I may assert that only one
wife is considered as the head of the yarang ; she shares
and regulates the compartment set aside for its master ;
and, although seldom interfermg with the internal
arrangements of the other portions, has general
superintendence and control over the entire estab-
lishment. She it is who, upon the arrival of fish or
meat, directs their division mto the several shares
for men and dogs ; to her the husband looks for the

correct conduct and performance of the duties of the
H 2

100 CONDITION OF THE WOMEN.

community; she delivers to the several female
inmates their portions of skins to be cleaned or
dressed, and other such work as may be required :
I am of course, in this extended view of her duties,
considering only the. condition of the wealthier
personages, who generally show great order and
neatness in their arrangements. Many men have
only one wife, and few more than two. If the
chief or favourite wife has amy children, they
occupy the same apartment with herself and lord ;
but the families of other wives reside with their
mothers in separate places, which are allotted for
their sole use; and it is, I imagine, generally con-
sidered the duty of the man to afford a home and
sustenance to those wives who have been put aside for
some new favourite, as well as to the children by
them ; but repudiation is perfectly recognised; and
in instances of misconduct, and sometimes of dislike,
put in force without scruple or censure. In these
cases the rejected wife returns to her father’s or
brother’s lodge, and, unless a very bad character,
does not generally wait long for another husband ;
very often, however, returning to her original spouse—
to be perhaps again discarded. Each man has as
many wives as he can afford to keep, the question of

food being the greatest consideration. One wealthy

YOIYSLNI IH PANS Th) dL Ay

sdAL LUV

POPULATION. 101

in herds of reindeer may very frequently indulge his
fancy for a new spouse, who of course supersedes the
last as head matron, unless, as sometimes occurs, she
is considered too young and inexperienced for the
onerous duties of the office; in which case the two
ladies occupy the same apartment with their husband,
and, strange to say, no signs of jealousy are ever dis-
played, nor is harmony disturbed; long custom, no
doubt, reconciles the females to these and other as
curious arrangements. It will thus be seen that very
large yarangs are required to afford shelter to so many
persons ; besides which a home is often provided for
the mother of the master, and possibly also such of
his father’s wives as may survive in widowhood.
Metra’s yarang contained twenty-six individuals on
one occasion when I sought to ascertain the number of
its inmates ; but [ will not venture to assert that these
were all residents, although such is my belief, as I visited
the several places at evening, when the outer door was
closed, and all inside were certainly going to remain.
But some may have been visitors.

From some attempts at a census which I made at
different periods, I consider ten souls to be about the
average number of inmates in a hut ; as, although a few
may contain only a poor old couple, or even a solitary
creature, dragging out the miserable remainder of

102 HOSPITALITY.

their existence, many were very large, and five or
six children might pretty generally be reckoned upon
to each woman. ‘Thus Wootair could not upon my
estimate contain less than two hundred persons, and
I am disposed to think it exceeded that number.

Upon reaching Mooldooyah’s habitation, we found
Captain Moore installed at his ease, with every pro-
vision made for comfort and convenience. Water
and venison were suspended over the lamps in prepa-
ration for dinner; skins nicely arranged for couches,
and the hangings raised to admit the cool air; our
baggage was bestowed’ around us with care and
in quiet, and we were free to take our own way
of enjoying such unobtrusive hospitality, without a
crowd of eager gazers watching us like lions at feed ;
nor were we troubled by importunate begging, such
as detracted from the dignity of Metra’s station, which
was undoubtedly high in the tribe. Indeed, the
entire deportment of our host and his wife, who
seemed to have an innate perception of propriety, was
in marked contrast to that of him whose apparently
unwelcome guests we had so lately been.

We enjoyed much interestmg conversation with
our friends here, any hiatus in speech bemg supplied
by signs, which answered very well.

This part of the country was, we were informed,

ae

Ba eee

THE REINDEER. 108

called Koeubtchepeen. I do not know how large a
district it comprehended, but Wootair was stated to
be only a small part.

Neither of the large flocks of remdeer said to be
possessed by Metra and Mooldooyah were now here ;
the sudden thaw and as speedy fall of temperature, that
had lately occurred, had formed a crust of ice upon
the snow, which prevented the deer from feeding,
and they had therefore been sent off to a distance
where pasture could be obtained. There appears to be
some difficulty in finding good and sufficient food
for these animals during the winter, for they were
miserably thin at this season, and we saw meat
killed in the autumn, which had quite three inches
thickness of fat upon it. The flavour of the
meat varies wonderfully with the condition of the
animal. I never ate anything superior to a piece
of cold boiled fat venison, which Ahmoleen provided
for me as a rare treat, for in general the fat meat
is set aside for pemmican.

During the evening the amusements of the previous
night were repeated, a conjuror appearing and per-
forming many gestures, which we were told were in
imitation of Payairkets, as they designate the Hsqui-
maux on the opposite shore of America. Occasionally

also the inhabitants of Iworien, the island of St.

104 MORE MUSIC.

Lawrence, were represented, and the derisive mimicry
of their actions was greatly applauded and encouraged,
being evidently mockery of their enemies. The distine-
tion between the two people was marked by the
American Esquimaux being represented to wear a
bead as a labret on both sides of the mouth, and those
of St. Lawrence but one. The drum beat perpetually
throughout ; the one used on this occasion was of
very large size, more than two feet diameter, and
was used by Mooldooyah, who gently tapped it with
two very fine united rods of whalebone. The sound
thus produced was different to the ordinary noise ;
it was very deep and resonant, but at the same time
soft and musical; the delivery of the strokes was
unvaried, a pause occurring after two, of the same
length with each, but the time, at first very slow,
increased after awhile, and ended in great rapidity
and violence, the noise then being quite overpowering.

On the morrow, after a comfortable night’s rest,
we set off homewards, accompanied by our host and
his family, who again acted as guides. Our route
was different to that by which we had come, but
we re-passed the lake Yeem-too-oon, and a rough
sketch was made of its shores.

We saw a fine salmon-trout caught here through

a hole in the ice, of which there were several, with

RETURN TO THE “ PLOVER.” 105

fishers beside them. On reaching the shore of the bay,
considerably lower than the spot where we landed
on the outward trip, a sudden halt occurred, and we
saw with astonishment the frozen surface of the bay
broken up into heaps and masses, and apparently inter-
posing an effectual barrier to our progress. But
Mooldooyah led the way to a spot his sagacity
approved, and darted right off into the confusion,
followed by the rest as they could; he guided us
across to the ship in safety, but the ice was broken
up and cracked all over, with deep fissures running
hither and thither.

We reached the old “ Plover,’ in the afternoon of
the 25th, having much enjoyed the excursion, and of
course now reciprocated their hospitality to our
kind friends.

Several natives about this time spoke of vessels
having been seen in the Straits; and although these
reports were of a very contradictory nature, both
as to description and periods, it was probable that
they had some foundation in truth which it would
be advantageous to discover. In this hope, and
likewise with a view to an examination of the coast
to the eastward, which by the delineations of the
natives was full of inlets and remarkable points, a

new excursion was planned to proceed along the

106 TEO'S VILLAGE.

coast of the Straits as far as Oong-wy-sac, the village
of Teo, the lame old gentleman.

On the morning of the 27th of January, the party,
consisting of Captam Moore, Messrs. Simpson,
Martin, and Lindsay, myself, and several of the
natives, started im nine sledges in gay style, and
proceeded by short cuts across country to the penin-
sula, or rather long pomt, on which the village stands.
This was the Point Tchaplin of our maps, and derives
its name from “ Oonghee,” a pomt. The village was
very large, consistmg of thirty-three yarangs, some
of which were of good size; and the number of
inhabitants was between three and four hundred.
This was entirely a fishing station ; nor could a more
convenient one have been chosen ; for, stretching out
far beyond the line of coast, it commanded an extensive
view of the sea east and west. It was, however, now
frozen up ; and the good folks had little else to do
than watch for seals upon the ice, fish in lakes near,
and put their boats and fishing gear in order for the
first occasion.

We were welcomed with great delight by Teo
and his*daughters, as well as the rest of the commu-
nity, many of whom we knew, and were speedily
ensconced in the large yarang of the former with

such comfort as they could provide. _ Our wants were

PERPLEXING CONVERSATION. 107

quickly attended to, and there was an evident desire
to fraternise in the most cordial style with the
bearded strangers, which of course we were not back-
ward in responding to. It was from this place
principally that accounts had been derived respecting
vessels having been seen; and all set to work with
diligence to unravel as much as possible of the tangled
web, which all people, whose communications and
records are purely oral, are sure to weave round
simple facts, between the occurrence and recital of
which any interval of time has intervened.

Our efforts on this head would have been amusing
enough to a spectator, but were really rather tiresome
to ourselves, though many ludicrous misconceptions
of the ideas intended to be conveyed were productive
of uncontrollable mirth. For Teo was very deaf, and
not more than commonly intelligent; and thus it
was not surprising that we turned in preference to
la belle Meeco for assistance in surmounting the
many difficulties occurring; but the old gentleman
could not rest contented when not engaged in the
dialogue, and would frequently, just perhaps as the
long-attempted solution of a question hung upon the
turn of an instant’s consideration, break in upon the
confab with some remark perfectly foreign to the

subiect. He was really very vexatious sometimes
5, =}

108 REPORTS OF VESSELS HAVING BEEN SEEN.

that old fellow; and withal so utterly unconscious of
the troublesome nature of his interference, that he
was the more provoking.

It can scarcely be imagined how much time,
ingenuity, and perseverance were required to obtain
anything like definite information ; and although the
employment could not be otherwise than interesting
and instructive, one felt at its close weary beyond
belief. How many schemes were resorted to in
order to gain our ends! The whole army of signs
brought into the field, with reinforcements of sketches,
models, and every possible aid by expression of
countenance and inflection of voice. Such great and _
long-continued endeavours could not be wholly
unfruitful; and I think, indeed, we had very good
reason to be satisfied with the information acquired,
as it set at rest any doubts which had been raised
respecting the fact of ships having been seen.

We elicited unmistakeably that four vessels had
been observed in the Straits lately, all goimg south-
ward; two of these were represented to have had
three masts, and the others only two. One had
been seen six months; two, five; and one, four
months ago; but from their descriptions none
answered at all to either the “ Erebus,” “ Terror,” or

‘“ Herald.’ There can now, however, be little doubt

OUR RETURN. 109

that the latter ship was seen both in going to and
returning from Kotzebue Sound in September and
October, 1848, to which the dates corresponded ; and
one vessel was, moreover, said to have been at
Iworien, which subsequent information showed to
agree with the “ Herald’s” dogs. At the time we
were pretty confident that none of these had anything
to do with us; and, after gaining every scrap possible
on the subject, with probably not a few additions to
the actual facts, turned to other subjects. We were
told that for the next two months the sea would
remain frozen, that then lanes and patches of water
would occur, and the Straits would be clear of ice
in four months’ time.

‘The appearance of the ice was very curious here, the
sea having frequently frozen over on calm nights and
broken up with the wind; the sludge, as it is called,
thus formed being driven up with masses of drift ice,
had frozen irregularly into lumps and rough surfaces :
much of this was soon smoothed over by the deposit
of snow, which was rather deceptive to unwary
pedestrians. The feet sometimes suffered severely
from the sharp upturned points of ice.

We spent two pleasant days here, visiting the
different yarangs and objects of interest. Captain

Moore and myself departed on the 29th to return by

110 BAD WEATHER.

the coast line to inspect its configuration. This
imtention was very nearly fruitless; snow and wind
prevented our observations, and, with the exception
of discovering a magnificent land-locked harbour,
remarking the highly volcanic nature of the moun-
tams, upon some of which snow would not lie, and
finding a rivulet proceeding from a hot spring, which
at the distance of three or four miles from the source
showed a temperature of 36° Fahrenheit, we had little
success to boast of. The bad weather prevented our
reaching the ship this day, and we remained for the
night in Mahkatzan’s yarang—a measure of disagree-
able necessity; for we had only brought provisions
for the day, and Mahkatzan had himself unluckily
little to give us. A scrap of walrus flesh was made
into a sort of soup; but even hunger could not over-
come its disagreeable flavour; and we went nearly
supperless to bed, and were glad enough to depart
next morning, notwithstanding it blew a gale, with
fearful snow drift, and a low temperature. We halted
for a short time at Woorel, and reached the ship in

the evening with great delight.

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey towards East Cape.—Arrangement of Villages.—Necessary to
travel with Dogs.— Preparations.— Deceit.— Costume for Travelling.—
Bad Weather.—Change course.—Noowook.—A new Taste of Fish.—
Tchaytcheen.—Modes of killing Seals.—The Snow Storm.—The Polka.

I HAVE now arrived at the relation of a journey
which by far exceeded in duration, interest, and extent,
any other undertaken during our stay here, and shall
give the events of each day in detail, as from them
I hope it will be found that much and important
information respecting the Tuski and their country
was gained.

We continued to receive various conflicting reports
of vessels seen, among others, that one was, or
had been, on the American shore ; several rude
charts had been drawn by the natives, and there
was evidently so much of important matter to be
gained, and so much intelligence to be inquired
into, that Captam Moore decided on despatching
a party towards Hast Cape, for the decision of
all these points. My friends, Mooldooyah and

hae VILLAGES OF THE TUSKI.

Yaneenga, accepted the office of guides, being familiar
with the coast and position of the villages; and three
officers had the honour of appointment to this
important duty; these were Messrs. H. Martin,
W. H. Moore, and myself. It will be necessary now
to offer a few remarks, that the reader may the more
clearly comprehend the mode in which this and all
other journeys were performed during our stay.

The villages of the Tuski are placed at irregular
distances along the line of coast ; none are ever situated
inland, as fishing is considered a great resource even by
those who are the possessors of deer, and who therefore
select the localities for their dwellings with a two-fold
view. There was not a tree or even shrub to be
found for a long distance from the sea; and although
we might have carried spirit lamps for fuel and
warmth, and tents for shelter, these would have
infinitely mcreased the burdens, and were unnecessary,
as we desired to proceed by the coast line, to learn
its configuration, and visit each hamlet for information,
and in these accommodation for repose could easily
be found. Added to this, the heavy falls of snow and
the astonishing drift which sweeps over the unshel-
tered face of the country m high winds, so completely
alter its appearance, fillmg up the beds of rivers and

even whole valleys, that it would be rash to adventure

OUR STORES AND EQUIPMENT. 113

into the interior, unless with guides, to whom every
feature of the hills was familiar as the pages of his
breviary to an eremite; and even under the most
favourable circumstances I should deem it at all times
hazardous.

None of our number had ever practised Arctic
travelling ; we knew little or nothing of the use of
snow-shoes, and it was vain to think of journeying
on foot without those appendages ; besides which, it
would have been slow and laborious work to have
carried our stores of provisions, instruments, and
presents. Reindeer would have been delightful
steeds, fleet as the wind—and then so romantic; but
we knew nothing about driving them, nor was
their food to be always easily obtained; thus we
came to the only easy and convenient mode of
travellmg, namely, by sledges and dogs, which were
therefore universally employed.

We were provided with provisions for twelve days,
a number of tools, trinkets, &c., for the natives, and
the necessary instruments for taking observations,
such as the dipping-needle and thermometers,
sextants and artificial horizon, pocket chronometers,
&c. We also carried a copper fiddle, made on board
by our clever armourer, which had already visited

more than one community to enliven its members.

I

114 START FOR WOOREL.

We had some difficulty im obtainmg as many dogs
as were required for so long a period, as the natives
had seldom more than one set or “ train,’ and
required these for daily use : we were therefore obliged
to take the captain’s team until it could be replaced.
On the morning of the 8th of February, a clear
and beautiful day, with the temperature ranging from
20° to 3° below zero, our little party started from the
ship under cheers from our comrades, and took the
direction of Woorel, where we expected to find
reinforcements of our canine steeds. On our arrival,
however, we found ourselves wofully deceived, the
promises to that effect were ingeniously evaded by
the contractors—Attah invented a_ plausible _ tale,
which was, to persuade us that her animals were
lame, and moreover adrift, and not to be caught
without difficulty; while Amtin had effectually
disappointed us by betaking himself, sledge, dogs
and all, to a distance on the sea-ice, for the avowed
purpose of seal-hunting. However, we were not to
be thus checked at the outset, and, sending Ahmoleen,
who was to accompany us for a short time, back to
the ship to mention our ill-success, and bring on the
Union-Jack which we had left behind, the journey was
continued to Mahkatzan’s, where we intended to

remain the night.

SNOW-BITE. Ws

On the road thither, we found the cold consider-
able ; our pipes ceased to smoke, from the moisture
congealing in them, and two natives, whom we met,
pointed out that Martin’s cheek and nose were
beginning to feel the frost, showmg two white spots,
which, however, as they gave no pain, he had been
quite unconscious of, and we who were in Ine,
either in advance of or behind him, did not see;
but rubbing his face smartly with snow soon restored
the circulation.

We reached Mahkatzan’s in the afternoon, and
unharnessed for the night; Ahmoleen arrived soon
after, having travelled fast with a light sledge. He
brought the Union-Jack, and a note directing us to
cut out an inscription upon wood, stating the par-
ticulars of our visit, and to put it up at Laurenne,
whither we were bound. I fear Mahkatzan was but
a niggard, or else his resources must have been
scanty ; only a few small fish were placed before us,
both frozen and boiled. We did not feel greatly
inclined to make havoc among the first, but discussed
the other with a better grace; and with some slight
addition from our own stores we made a tolerable
repast, and then retired to rest.

It may not be uninterestmg to describe our

ordinary equipment on this trip, which I have since
12

116 OUR CLOTHING.

learned to consider too cumbrous, though well suited
to repel cold ; against which, however, activity is the
best antidote. Our dress consisted of under-garments
of flannel, or fleeces and linen, trowsers of box-cloth,
or breeches of reindeer or seal-skin, heavy snow-boots,
which were found to be dreadfully inconvenient, large
frocks or shirts of reindeer skin, with the hair out-
wards, over which, in snowy weather, was drawn the
invaluable okoncho, a welshwig or woollen cap, covered
by a huge outside one, with a long-haired border
(mine was made of white bear-skin, provided, as was
nearly all my excellent equipment, by the foresight
of Yaneenga) ; worsted gloves, within large gauntlets
or mitts, completed our costumes, which increased our
bulk to double its ordinary dimensions, and made us
look funny enough.

The 9th was so unfavourable, that we were com-
pelled to delay our journey, and were sufficiently occu-
pied in taking magnetic observations, revising our
wardrobes, and re-arranging the ladings of the sledges,
as considered advisable, the journey hither having
suggested some few alterations in that respect ;
Yaneenga, who seemed to consider us as her especial
charges, busied herself in making a pair of deer-skin
mocassins for Martin, that he might discard his snow-

boots, which were an effectual preventive to exercise.

OBSTACLES FROM THE WEATHER. 1h

The morning of the 10th presented an aspect little
more favourable than that of the previous day ; it blew
hard with a blindmg snow-drift, but we disliked to
remain idle, and set off at about 8 a.m. Mahkatzan
had consented, upon the consideration of certain
rewards, to lend his train of dogs, and our equipages
were now pretty well furnished. Mooldooyah had
four, Yaneenga three, and each of ourselves five.

Knowing this immediate part of the coast suffi-
ciently well already, it was not intended to go right
round it, but to cut across to a village at some
distance to the eastward; and we proceeded with
this view for a time in very great discomfort, the fine
fiercely driven snow blowing directly in our faces
and nearly blinding us: just when about to branch
off to the westward of a range of hills near the sea,
Mooldooyah, who had several times shown signs of
disinclination to proceed, stopped suddenly, and
acquainted us with his opinion, that it was folly to
persevere in face of such obstacles ; and that he could
by no means feel assured that we should not miss the
right direction to our destination, which was far off,
and that in this case the dogs, and even ourselves,
might perish.

There was no refuting such arguments ; he knew

all about the matter—we nothing; so, of course, we

118 ARRIVAL AT NOOWOOK.

acceded to his desire of making for Tchaytcheen,
whence, he said we might next day continue to
the yarangas before-mentioned. He accordingly led
the way in a new direction; but the weather became
much worse, and a man and woman who passed us
on their sledge gave up their trip and returned on
our track: these indications were not wasted upon
our faithful and prudent guide, who would not
permit us to come to any harm for want of caution
on his part. He again halted, represented that even
T'chaytcheen was still distant, and that the desperate
condition of the weather would render our journey
thither a matter of doubtful success and safety ; and
ended by recommending that we should not proceed
beyond Noowook, a small hamlet now in sight.
The councils of our mentor were not to be held in
contempt, and we submitted to his suggestions with-
out dissent, although murmuring at the ill luck which
thus checked us m the first stages of our trip.
Speedily reaching Noowook, which was a miserable
fishing station, consisting only of six small and dirty
huts, we took up our quarters first in the habitation
of Tchi-gwa.

No matter at what time of day a_ visitor
arrives, food is instantly set before him, generally

frozen fish or cold blubber, to keep him occupied

DIFFERENCES OF TASTE. 119

until other viands are got ready. Such was our lot
in this instance; a number of small fish, about four
inches long, raw and hard frozen, were placed before us,
our hosts and guides setting the example in disposing
of them. Unwilling to offend their prejudices, we
endeavoured to manage a little execution in this line,
but found it rather contrary to our tastes, although
fortunately entire congelation disguised some of the
unpleasant properties attendant on uncooked and
uncleaned fish. Some blubber was then brought on
and done justice to by all but ourselves, to whom the
simple idea was quite enough for a meal.

This yarang was very much confined ; all the smaller
huts have barely sittmg height and stretching length,
so that one is cramped for room ; and as J was desirous
of making magnetic observations, my comrades were so
kind as to take up their quarters m another tent for
the nght. The sea was at this time covered with
broken patches of ice, a few spots of water, but no
distinct ‘“‘lanes”’ visible, and it would of course have
been unsafe to adventure on it. Although striving
as much as possible to gain and impart information,
I found my host so stupid, or so apathetic, that the
efforts were painfully one-sided; even the detail of
preparations and performance with the dipping-needle,

generally an object of so much curiosity and wonder,

120 PURCHASE A DOG.

were nearly unheeded by him. A little tobacco
rewarded him amply for the slight trouble of our
visit, and I lay down to sleep with an earnest hope
for a favourable morrow.

The morning of the 11th showed much less wind
and drift, but was very misty with drizzling snow : this
was, however, so great an improvement on the last
two days that we were glad enough to hasten our
departure. We snatched a hurried breakfast while
our steeds were being harnessed, and had the vexation
to discover that one of the dogs, lately lent by Mah-
katzan, had, with canine fidelity, departed to seek
his master.

Bidding farewell to the meagre denizens of the
village, we followed our guide ez route for Tchaytcheen,
and were so fortunate as to overtake a gentleman of
that township who was driving leisurely homewards in
his two-dog sleigh, and who upon arriving at Tchayt-
cheen, which we did in company, consented, for the
consideration of about six ounces of tobacco, (which
in the leaf looks a large quantity, and indeed is so
to them,) to replace our lost dog with one of his
own—a circumstance highly fortunate for us. In all
such transactions as this I left the entire management
to Mooldooyah, having implicit reliance upon his

judgment and probity ; nor had we ever any reason

HARBOUR OF TCHAYTCHEEN. 121

to be dissatisfied with his arrangements, mm which
it must be mentioned the voice of Yaneenga had
much though quiet influence. Well were it always
so with wives..

Tchaytcheen consisted of five small huts, situated
under a range of hills, and upon the borders of Tchayt-
cheen harbour, which is of a magnificent character.
The yarangas were mean and dirty, and the only point
of interest it possessed apart from others was the
arrangement of perhaps eighteen or twenty heads of
whales disposed in pairs to rest boats on. I think it
not improbable that it was usual to keep a number of
boats here fully provided for fishing, ready to be
launched at an instant’s notice, when whales were
reported. We desired much to have lingered awhile
on the harbour which we now crossed, to make a few
observations for fixing its position; but our mtended
halting-place was far distant, and even without delay
we could not hope to reach it until after dusk.
‘The man who replaced our lost dog accompanied
us some distance across the harbour, bemg bound on
a sealing excursion.

The mode of entrappmg these animals is inge-
nious and deserving of notice. As I before
remarked, the seals make holes in the ice, either

piercing it when the crust is light, and keeping the

$22 SEAL-CATCHING.

place open day by day, or biting right up through as
much as three or four feet of solid ice. Through these
holes they get on to the ice, and generally lie close to
the edge of the aperture, but if not rendered shy by
frequent disturbance will wander off to some distance.
It has always been a matter of wonder to me how
they manage (particularly small ones) to climb up the
wall sides of their holes with so little apparent
holding powers, but they certainly do so with
perfect ease.

The natives, accomplished m all primitive arts
of obtaining their prey, proceed to their task of
capture with perfect self-confidence and deliberation :
two modes are followed, one a simple question
of patience, the other requirmg much skill and
strategy. In the first a mound of snow or ice is
raised at some distance from the seal hole, behind
which, before his prey emerges from the water, the
hunter ensconces himself, and where he must wait
motionless and silent for the seal to appear, which
often does not occur for a long period ; great skill is
then necessary to secure his victim, as, unless killed
instantaneously when struck, it is almost sure to
escape into its hole. I believe bears have the same
mode of catching them. In the other mode, the hunter,

leaving his sledge and dogs at a distance, approaches

SEAL-CATCHING. 123

with slow and stealthy step until the seal, which is a
particularly wary creature, manifests signs of perception
and alarm; when the hunter, watchful as his quarry,
sinks by almost imperceptible degrees down upon the
ice, and remains there motionless until surprise has
subsided, and the seal once more disposes itself to
sleep, but he must now no longer remain erect and
undisguised, nor may his procession be continuous.
Crouching low upon the snow, he imitates with
amazing fidelity the actions of the seal itself, and
drags himself by slow and tortuous advances towards
the hole: his vigilance must now be unwearied and
unerring ; the slightest false movement, an instant’s
motion when the seal is looking, and plunge goes his
prey into the water, rendering all his care and labour
fruitless, for there is no chance of a reappearance that
day ; and when one seal goes in a hurry, the rest never
wait long behind, shuffling and scurrying along the ice
in the most ludicrous manner; so that all chance of
sport is lost. Of this catastrophe the danger of course
imcreases as the distance lessens, and the wariness of
skilful hunters is then truly wonderful. The grand
aim is to get between the seal and its hole, in which
case capture may be considered pretty certain, but if
this cannot be accomplished, the chasseur must

endeavour to crawl right up to the animal unawares

124 ANOTHER SNOW-STORM.

and strike it dead at a blow. Success being attained,
the hunter now goes joyfully off for his sledge, on
which he places the entire carcase of his victim, for
the Tuski has no foolish prejudices respecting offal ;
all parts of the animal are useful, and the skin is taken
off with very great care and skill, bemg cut only at
the tail and flippers. Some of these animals are very
large; a splendid skin with tiger spots, presented to
me by one of the Tuski chiefs, is more than five feet
long, exclusive of the head and tail which are cut off,
nor was this the largest we saw.

Upon reaching the opposite shore of the harbour,
we struck off to the westward of a ridge of hills,
leaving the sea and the road to Oongwysac on
our right; this and other ranges ran in almost
regular and parallel lines, in a N.W. direction, and
did not vary greatly in altitude, being all about four
or five hundred feet high. We now halted for a
munch, for which Yaneenga displayed from among
her hidden stores a small quantity of dry pounded
venison; this was of a very agreeable flavour,
slightly resembling our own pemmican, but possessing
more flavour and freshness.

The day had been misty throughout, and while
we thus tarried for a space, fine snow commenced

to fall thickly, and obscure our path ; imcreasing

THE POLKA UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 125

heavily as we continued on our way. Ail surrounding
country was now completely hidden from view ;
it was even difficult for myself, who always brought
up the rear, to distguish with clearness the form
of our guide, Mooldooyah, who notwithstanding
pursued his way unhesitatingly until the brief day-
light began to decrease, when he showed ominous
signs of wavering and doubt, stopping at times to
consult with his wife, and peering anxiously into
the fast thickening gloom. At last, after descending
a hill, and proceeding for a short time along a level
surface, Mooldooyah came to a determined halt, and
realised our fears of his having been misled by telling
us that we were now on salt-water ice, probably only
an inlet of the sea, but he did not know what or
where—in fact, that he had lost his way in the snow-
fall and darkness, and that we must wait until moon-
rise for light and guidance. This would not happen
for four or five hours, so we sat ourselves down
contentedly to wait for the advent of the queen of
night to relieve us from our difficulties. _We proposed
indeed to show the direction of the land by compass ;
but Mooldooyah rejected the offer as of little use, as
even then he would be unable to find the road.
Fortunately the fall of snow had brought a moderation

of the cold, from which therefore we suffered little ;

126 SMOKING.

and so slightly did the condition of affairs depress our
spirits, that several favourite songs were sung in
chorus, and Martin and myself had a dance in the
snow, which deserves the name of the Tuski Polka. It
was however rather too laborious an amusement to be
long continued, as we were heavily encumbered with
our clothes, and the snow was three feet deep:
recourse was then had to smoking, and sure I am
that the severest condemners of this practice would
withhold their strictures in our case, where its

indulgence was so great a solace.

Es.

CHAPTER IX.

Woman’s Care-—The anxious Guides.—A solemn Ceremony.—Prolonged
Misery and a new Disaster.—The Dilemma.—A Cruel Deception.—
The last Night.—A glorious Discovery.—Hope and Deliverance.—
Hunger of Dogs: its Consequences.—Thirst.—Kind Reception.—The
Tuski Garrick—The Hot Spring.—New Cookery.

Tue rising of the moon brought no alteration to
our condition ; so thickly fell the heavy snow-flakes,
we could barely tell, by a faint glimmering, in which
direction she lay, and we were perforce induced to
arrange our sledges for repose, followmg in this the
movements of Mooldooyah, and aided by the sugges-
tions and touch of Yaneenga, who was ever watchful
of our comfort; not more anxious perhaps than the
good man, but more alive to our wants,—and—there,
I need not talk any more to show that woman always
is worth a dozen of the other sex for tender care and
attention.

Mooldooyah and his wife were evidently in a
state of terrible anxiety for our safety; for them-

selves they could have little fear, inured as they were

128 SHAMANISM.

to the rigour of the climate, although even the natives
occasionally suffer dreadful, and even fatal injuries by

such accidents as the present. But the case was

different as concerned the strangers, whose power -

to resist the cold they were unacquainted with.
In this extremity, recourse was had to thy powers,
dread Shamanism! and whatever people may think of
it, I freely confess, that although by no means a man of
weak nerves, the manner of conducting the ceremony,
notwithstanding the simplicity of its details, struck
me with a sensation of awe, and first opened my eyes
to the real danger we were in. Quitting their sledge
with slow and measured step, the pair removed to a
distance from us, where Yaneenga prostrated herself
in the snow, her hands upraised above her buried
face: the man, turning first to the west, then to the
north and south, omitting—I know not why, perhaps
accidentally—the fourth pomt, bowed himself to each
repeatedly ; like Yaneenga’s, his hands and arms were
upraised above his head, and he gave forth a succession
of cries, which still sound m my ears asI write
of them—long wailing shouts, loud, unearthly and
despairing, each exhausting the lungs im their emission,
like a thunder roll at first, and smking by degrees to
a melancholy faintness. In all my life I never heard

any sounds to equal these for horrible impressiveness ;

ya a.”

DANGEROUS POSITION. 129

the deathwail of the Irish, the shout of the Red Indian,
both of which I have heard in force, fall far short of
Mooldooyah’s appeal to his fates. They presently
returned to their sledge, where I joined them, and
found Yaneenga weeping profusely but quietly,
while her husband sat in moody silence and replied
only briefly to my questions. Ere long I regained
my own sledge and reclined against it until morning,
but sleep came tardily, and then only in broken, fitful
portions.

Glimmermg daylight on the 12th brought no
prospect of relief; the. snow still thickly falling in
enormous flakes, circumscribed the view at a few
yards’ extent, and Mooldooyah could not venture to
proceed in any, as the right, direction, nor even show
the way off the salt-water ice; this, however, the
compass enabled us to do, and gaining the shore we
travelled on until noon in great uncertainty. Being
still utterly ignorant of our position, we then once
more halted, obtaining shelter to leeward of a hill,
for the wind had risen and the temperature fallen
considerably ; both these occurrences gave good cause
for dread of their fatal effects in our exposed and
unprepared condition.

It was clearly useless to move, since we should

wander we knew not whither; patience and hope

K

130 ILLNESS OF MR. MOORE.

were our only trusts, and we remained here all day
without change, once only getting a glimpse of the
surrounding country, which proved to be table-land,
at a considerable height, encircled by hills. Our
sledges were so fully and heavily laden that they
were of little service as couches; we made holes m
the snow and lay in a crouching position, exposing
our heads only; thus a little, very little, miserable
slumber was occasionally obtained, although two
days’ weariness courted repose. A new disaster to
one of our party soon robbed the remainder of
even this taste of luxury. Our comrade, Mr.
Moore, became afflicted with diarrhoea so violently
that we were much alarmed on _ his account,
and had, moreover, but scanty means of assuaging
his distress. A small quantity of spirits re-
lieved him somewhat, but he remained faint and
prostrated.

This was a miserable night ; darkness surrounded
us without relief, for we had neither fuel nor means
of obtaining light ; the snow, penetrating our outer
garments, thawed upon the under clothing ; gauntlets
and caps, frequently dropped or mislayed, were full
of snow when recovered, and little round crystal balls
fringing our inner caps and _ hair, greatly mcreased

our discomfort. It may thus be imagined how truly

MORE DISASTERS. Loe

wretched was our situation, that of our poor mess-
mate particularly, aggravated as it was by illness and
extra exposure.

Another day dawned, but brought no comfort to
our now chilled souls as well as bodies. Think, dear
friends, of the utter desolation and dreariness of
uninterrupted snow; the livelong day, the weary
night, snow, only snow, now falling perpendicularly
in broad and massive flakes, now driven by the
freezing blast in slanting sheets which sought each
nook and cranny for a resting-place. In scenes of
stirring excitement there is much to blind one to
possible contingencies, or at least they are congenial
to the spirit, but this our miserable condition, deso-
late and monotonous, called for all the quicksilver
im one’s veins.

A partial clearance towards noon stimulated
Mooldooyah to a new effort, but no success attended
his endeavours, which only created fresh troubles.
In descending a steep hill, my sledge broke down,
and we had only just again started, after a long delay
to repair it, when, at the steepest part of the descent,
Martin’s equipage turned over and threw him and a
large case of pemmican out upon the snow. I tried
to stop his dogs, but they ran, sledge and all, over

me and escaped to the bottom of the hill, where they
K 2

1D2 DESCENT OF A HILU.

were seized and held by Yaneenga, who with the
others had arrived there.

Martin and I were now in a condition of perplexity.
The snow reached to our hips; it was therefore useless
to attempt carrying the burden down the hill; we
tried to roll it, but raised a continually imcreasing
mass before, and kissed the snow ourselves. One of
us now, embracing the case affectionately, endeavoured
to roll down with it, but soon desisted, half choked,
and a new experiment was essayed, by riding double
on my sledge; but as we rolled off alternately, this
scheme also was abandoned. We did that at last
which reason would at first have suggested; the
pemmican was added to my load, and poor Martin
had to trudge down the hill by slow and laborious
steps.

Mooldooyah had now another long task, two of the
sledges being much injured. ‘The repairs being con-
cluded, we moved on again, though without knowing
any more of our position than before.

The snowfall decreased slightly towards evening,
and this trifling improvement favoured an illusion,
whose dissipation was a cruel disappointment to us in
our jaded and dispirited state. We were, uncon-
sciously, again approaching the sea, and suddenly
hailed with transports of delight what we took to be

INTENSE COLD. 135

a collection of yarangas. ,Strange to say, the dogs
manifested equally joyous symptoms of recognition,
and needed little persuasion to make them quicken
their speed towards the so welcome objects. Alas,
we might have spared our glad hurrahs ; the fancied
yarangas were but the bare abrupt faces of the sea
cliffs, and, as we neared them, seemed to grin derisively
at our bitter delusions.

So great a fall of snow had rendered travelling
exceedingly difficult, particularly with such heavily
laden sledges ; the dogs could scarcely flounder along,
and we were constantly obliged to lift one or the
other runner from its deep furrow. These continued
efforts were, m our exhausted plight, painfully
laborious ; and the entire helplessness of Mr. Moore,
who still suffered from his complaint, added greatly
to our fatigue.

We stopped at last, from sheer inability to pro-
ceed, in the mouth of a small inlet, bordered by
steep banks, and passed a night of misery and. sus-
pense, far worse than any of the preceding. The
wind, sweeping remorselessly through the gorge,
~ covered us with snow-drift, and sought to freeze the
very marrow in our bones, the temperature having
again fallen considerably.

That might is imprinted indelibly upon my

134 ARRIVE AT OUR DESTINATION.

memory: never do I .recall its tardily passing
moments without shuddering at the thought of what
might have been our state next morning. That we
were not all frozen to death will ever be a matter of
wonder to me, for our under garments had been
completely saturated with melted snow, and our
outer dresses were rigid as boards. The morning of
the 14th presented little to justify more than a faint
hope of relief. A heavy mist hung around, obscuring
the scene as much as_ ever; and although we
journeyed on, it was in a circle, for we crossed our
old track. Between nine and ten, however, the mist
cleared off, and gave us a considerable view, by which
fortunate chance both Martin and Mooldooyah recog-
nised a headland afar, and then knew that we were
in Oong-wy-sac Coy-ee-mak, or Oongwysac harbour,
and consequently could reach the village of Oongwysac
ere night. We directly took bearings, in case the
weather should again thicken, but it cleared as the
day wore on; and using all the very moderate
dispatch we could exert, Oongwysac was reached after
a laborious travel of ten hours. We arrived at the
yarangas in a condition of complete exhaustion; and
here our first cry was for water. For water! with
snow im such profusion around! Even so, good

friends. Thirst was one of our greatest sufferings,

SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST. 135

which eating snow only increased, from its inflamma-
tory effect. Our poor dogs were almost famished.
Mooldooyah would never allow us to give them our
own provisions, both because we might not be able
to spare them, and also that, as he stated, they could
go without food for three or four days, in cases of
necessity : the small quantities we nevertheless per-
sisted in giving them once or twice, were by far
inadequate to their wants, and the consequence was,
that when we halted at nights, the dogs, burying them-
selves in the snow as usual, quietly gnawed away at
their harness, which was of seal-hide; and in the
morning, when attempting to depart, a solitary dog,
representing the team, would possibly emerge from
its lair, the rest having entirely detached themselves
from the sledges ; they had then to be sought for,
and harnessed with whatever could be found.

My companions and myself repaired to the yarang
of Teo, our guides taking up their abode in another
belonging to a friend of theirs, Yappo by name. ‘The
united barking of the whole assembly of dogs,
including our own, soon caused the yarangas, closed
at dusk, to re-open, and we were welcomed with
eagerness, which, upon a knowledge of our sorry
plight, was changed into bustling assistance and

exclamations of sympathy. Scarcely were we

136 OUR STAY IN TEOS YARANG.

permitted to retam free motion. Moore, who was
greatly exhausted, was tended hke a dying man, and
we were speedily relieved from all troubles save
the prostration which ensued on this long and
painful trial.

Warmth and repose soon restored Martin and
myself to the power of renewed exertion, but
Mr. Moore remained in a very feeble state, and I
wrote to Captain Moore next day, detailing our
mishaps, and communicated our opinion that he had
better return at once to the “ Plover.”

It was resolved that we should remain here until
our strength should be recruited, when, if the answer
from Captam Moore should be favourable, Martin
and myself would endeavour to renew the fulfilment
of the objects of our excursion, thus disastrously
impeded. The interval of repose was broken only by
scientific and other observations, and visiting the
various yarangas around us. Desiring to communi-
cate with our guides, I sought them in the hut, to
which they had overnight repaired ; they had already
gone forth, and I was directed to a very large yarang,
whither they had gone. On entering, I found my
friends, and had also the good fortune to witness a
national performance of a purely theatrical nature,

which was curious as unexpected. In this large tent,

ed

NATIVE MIMICRY. bad

apparently erected for and devoted to public pur-
poses (possibly as a council-room as well as theatre,
for in place of the usual inner apartments, only a
species of bench, of raised earth, ran around
it), were seated numerous spectators. Yaneenga
made room for me beside her, and I had a
plam view of the solitary actor, who sustained his
part with extraordinary skill, activity, and endu-
rance : this performance was a representation of the
practices of the Pa-erks (i. e., Esquimaux on the
opposite shore of the straits:) I had before seen
this shghtly attempted, but the present was evidently
a state occasion, and all details were carefully
presented. He imitated with extravagant action—
paddling, eating, and drinking, looking for an enemy,
fighting, and hunting the whale, in which the efforts of
the men and the struggles of the animals were 2TO-
tesquely depicted, and he gesticulated throughout with
furious energy. ‘T'wo musicians seated upon the earth
beat incessantly upon their drums ; their performances
seeming to be an indispensably necessary addition
to the sport. The spectators applauded voci-
ferously, in a manner scarcely less interesting than
the scene they praised, any incident more striking
than the rest eliciting interjections of kah! kah!

kah! “da capo diminuendo,” and a low running

138 THE FACULTY OF IMITATION.

gurgle of approval with a continuous though sub-
dued current of conversation, occasionally breaking
out with the elders in short notes, to thei fellows
or the actor, of satisfaction at his efforts. By the
very general interest displayed, I have little doubt
that he was the Garrick of his tribe; indeed, I
never saw any other among them so expert as
himself by many shades: the poor fellow deserved
applause if only for the labour of his performance.
It may briefly be noticed, that he was clad to
resemble those he mimicked, having among other
peculiarities, only one mitten on—a familiar trait
of Esquimaux—and threw into his action, tones
and expression, a character so entirely foreign to
his own that one would, unwarned, fail to recog-
nise him as of the Tuski. I was much impressed
with the view of this spectacle. Here, on the
extreme of a sterile and desolate waste, on whose
edge only a few uncivilised persons are scattered,
the imitative faculty of man had burst forth without
example, his untaught and unaided ingenuity develop-
ing itself in athousand instances. The contemplative
mind cannot but find im all these things indications of
the universal superiority of man over the brute—ample
food for reflection upon the mightiness of the Power who

bestowed reason to direct and capability to perform.

EXCURSION TO A HOT-SPRING. 139

The face of the country was so completely hidden
during the winter, that we were unable to remark
upon its features and constitution ; accident revealed
the information that black-lead ore exists on this
coast, particularly upon the poimt on which we now
were ; two species of ochre are also found, but more
rarely, and are exchanged at high prices with the
denizens of distant villages, bemg held in great
estimation as dyes, and for painting upon skins,
paddles, &c., for which black-lead is also extensively
used. We obtained some fresh venison here from
one of the natives, who had lately purchased it, and
found it welcome alike as a change and to the saving
of our provisions.

While awaiting the return of our messenger to the
ship, I made an excursion to a hot-spring, not far
distant, im company with a Mr. No-tak-en, whose
interminable garrulity was supportable only on such
an occasion when one desired to acquire all the
information possible; but he was very obliging,
thinking no trouble too great in the service of a
friend, and this was a saving clause in his disposition.
He took care to provide mocassins of seal-skin, to
be assumed upon arrival at the stream ; a number of
small raw fish, and one or two blue beads; but what

he was going to do with either of these I had no idea,

140 HOT SPRING.

and left the issue to the future. A pleasant run of
two hours—for having empty sledges our dogs speeded
merrily along—brought us to a line of high steep
banks, under a range of rounded barren hills, all now
enveloped in snow. Long ere we reached the spring,
clouds of vapour hanging above, and the stream
proceeding from it, showed where it lay, at the foot
of a high bank, overhung in a very curious manner
by a canopy of snow. Drift had, I conjecture, first
formed in a mass above, which the action of the
vapour had hollowed out inside, until a sort of cave
of considerable height was formed ; the melting snow
and heated vapour had encrusted the inner surface
with a smooth and glassy coatmg of ice, in which
numerous apertures, in beautiful crystallisation, per-
mitted the vapour to escape in volumes; depending
icicles, like fragments of felspar, added to the
picturesque appearance of this curious cavern. The
spring was not at this time boiling at the surface, the
thermometer showing only 156° of Fahrenheit; the
water was strongly impregnated with salt and other
substances, having a mingled taste of iron and copper,
and bitter as gall. In the cauldron or basin of the
sprmg I found a_ blue bead, which, however,
No-tak-en carefully replaced, at the same time adding
two or three of those he had brought, and telling

RETURN FROM OUR EXCURSION. 141

me to do likewise. By his signs and replies to my
questions I was led to believe that these were placed
there as an offering to the spirit of the spring, but
I may have erred as to his meaning. Possibly the
real intention was to change their colour by the
chemical action of the water.

From the bed of the stream I obtained some frag-
ments of fossil wood, which would lead one to impute
a petrifymg property to the spring. The fish which
No-tak-en had brought he placed in the stream for
about half an hour, then presented them to me as
cooked ; for curiosity’s sake I tasted them, and found
that they had become in a measure stewed, but, at
the same time, had so thoroughly imbibed the
ingredients of the water as to be quite unfit to eat.
Two splendid alpine hares, with coats of long and
spotless fur, trotted leisurely off as we arrived, and
remained upon the brow of the hill watching us ; we
had unfortunately brought neither gun nor bow,
so that they were safe from injury. After having
examined the spring and stream with great interest,
I returned with my companion to Oongwysac much

pleased with the excursion.

CHAPTER X.

Way to manage Natives.—The Magical Magnet.—Quit Oongwysac.—The
Deserted.—A Census.—May-tchoo-emin. —Tuski Games.—The trial of
speed.—The Wrestlers.—A large bear-skin.—Tuski bravery.—Combats
and Marks.—The Greek Cross.—A Wanderer’s fate.—A disagreeable
check.— Useless instruction. —A piece of good luck.—Yandangah
—Ah-mo-leen.—A Tuski gentleman.—A Tuski villa—Hospitality.

Durine our stay here, as upon all practicable
occasions, we used strenuous endeavours to obtain
and impart information; we had sometimes slight, but
very often gratifymg results. When become a little
experienced in the art of communicating with
primitive people, I found my best chances of success
to lie in first impressing them with feelings of respect
by our apparent superiority and performance of
‘mysterious operations, and then to engage their
attention by explanation of these seeming effects of
magic.

Of all things least open to their comprehension,
the powers of the magnet were principal. I found it
quite useless to attempt a solution of the mystery,

and was necessarily content to leave it enshrouded in

WONDER AT THE MAGNET. 143

darkness. ‘That it could lift iron and steel, make
needles dance, and impart its wonderful powers to
other portions of metal, were phenomena which were
ascribed rather to our wizard qualities than to its
own merits; and the natives continued to regard
all operations in this respect with a mixture of fear
and wonder.

The messenger who had been despatched to the
ship returned to Oongwysac with fresh instructions,
and a further supply of provisions for us, permission
deing accorded for the resumption of the journey
by Mr. Martin and myself; Mr. Moore, of course,
returning to the “ Plover.”

The morning of the 19th—for we had been four
days detained at Oongwysac—saw us once more astir
npon our journey, refreshed and re-invigorated : the
day was clear and sunny, and we sped along the
hardened snow without a halt, taking to the sea-ice,
after passing the point we had descried with so much
joy on the morning of the 14th.

We passed the island of Tchatlook, which rises
rocky and abrupt from the water to the height,
perhaps, of 200 feet, and continued, alternately
traversing strips of land and arms of the straits, until
considerably past nightfall. Our guides were again

slightly at fault on this occasion, as the huts were

14.4 AURORA BOREALIS.

upon the shore of a small island or peninsula (we
could not, from the mass of snowdrift, tell which),
and mist lay low down upon the horizon. After some
delay, however, we turned off to the eastward, and
soon discovered them. The aurora borealis was dis-
played this night in great beauty; it lay like a fringe
on a dark bank of clouds which bounded the horizon :
the effect was almost funereal. Having arrived here
at a late hour, we delayed repose only to take refresh-
ment; and set off again early next morning, after
presenting our host with some tobacco and his wife
with a few beads. We halted at noon on the sea-
ice to obtain the latitude; but our guides speedily
tired of waiting, and set off before us to a village on a
hill in sight, at some distance, where they were to
await our arrival. Martin and I, having concluded.
our observations and a sketch, repacked the instru-
ments upon the sledges; and he then mounted, and
set off a little before I reached my carriage: my dogs
were up and off in an instant after his sledge, and
both teams, gaining sight of the huts m the distance,
raced towards them at full speed. Martin could
not stop his dogs ; it was hopeless to expect mine
to halt, and away they all scampered, leaving me
to get over about two miles of distance as I best

might.

Cail e ats ales

A FISHING VILLAGE. 145

I was fully clad in riding costume, for the tempe-
rature was very low at this time, and the snow-crust,
only sufficiently thick to bear dogs and sledges, broke
in and let me through as far as my knees at each
footstep. The holes thus made were only just the size
of my feet, and I was therefore obliged to lift my legs
perpendicularly each time. My toil may be imagined ;
but a third of the distance was accomplished with
dreadful fatigue, when Mooldooyah, seeing and appre-
ciating my difficulties, despatched one of the villagers
on my sledge to my deliverance. After a brief halt,
we continued on until evening, when another village
was reached, where we obtained lodging for the night.
A spring of delicious water was passed to-day: it
showed a temperature of 41.

At Nootchoome, through which we passed during
the 21st, we stopped for a short time, more to satisfy
the curiosity of the mhabitants than for our own
convenience. It was a fishing village of eight huts ;
and I obtaimed, with considerable pains, a rough
statement of the population ; but, although considering
it near the truth, will not vouch for its correctness :
these huts were all very small, and did not, therefore,
reach the general average of number. The inmates

of each hut were given as follows :—

146 A CENSUS.

MEN. WOMEN. CHLLDREN.
Met ee eT 2
Gye 8 5
(3) 0 1 2
(4) 6 3 2
tae 0 1
(6) 0 i A
(7) 1 0 if
Gta 1 2

13 9 19

Total : ; 41 persons.

This gives an average of five persons to each
habitation, which, for the size of the yarangas, may
be considered greater than usual.

Bestowing a trifle upon our informant and a few
others, we pursued our way without matter of great
interest until reaching May-tchoo-emin, a village
situated on the border of a harbour of considerable
capacity and convenience, called in the charts, the
Bay of Mechigme. We remained here for the mght,
and found sufficient amusement and interest m infor-
mation gained, and a further exhibition of native
customs, which was, I believe, performed for our
edification.

A shed or covered stage, erected for the protection of
boats and fishing-gear during the winter, stood in the
centre of a level plain fronting the huts. A number of
the young men, starting at a given signal, commenced

to run round and round this shed, always keeping at

CURIOUS TRIAL OF STRENGTH. 147

a certain distance from it. ‘They continued for a
very considerable time in motion, at last one by
one dropped off from exhaustion, until two only
remained, between whom the struggle was protracted
and severe. The object of this trial being to ascer-
tain superiority of endurance, rather than of speed, the
pace was not rapid, but it was, nevertheless, im-
perative on the foremost runner to retain his advance,
and this law caused some hard struggles for place.

I was confirmed in my view of the nature of this
species of match by observing that the competitors
were not allowed to divest themselves of clothing,
but raced in complete costume ; and that they were
permitted to provide themselves with the peculiar
stick which is used by them in travelling on snow or
ice. ‘This is a long thin staff of drift-wood, shod
at the foot with pointed ivory or seals’ tooth, and
furnished with a circular frame, generally of whale-
bone, sometimes six or eight inches in diameter,
attached to it three or four inches above the shod ;
this frame is covered with a net-work of hide-cord,
and its use is intended to prevent the staff going
deep in the snow, and_ so tripping him whose
support it should be: it is a valuable acquisition,
particularly with snow shoes.

When this game was concluded, and our plaudits,

L2

148 WRESTLING MATCH.

with more substantial tokens of approbation, had
been bestowed upon the winners, two gladiators
entered the arena, nude to the waist, and after rolling
in the snow to refresh and render their bodies moist
and slippery, like those of ancient Rome with oil,
they commenced to wrestle in a peculiar and rather
violent manner; the principal aim was to seize the
arm, but they also took hold of each other’s hair,
and some rather obstinate contests took place,
heavy falls and ensanguined visages showing the
severity of the mimic strife. The muscular develop-
ment of all the combatants was generally very fine ;
small and large men alike showed compact, solid
frames with both power and activity. It was
amusing enough to see them rub their bodies briskly
with snow, and return to the encounter with renewed
vigour and spirit.

We learned positively that a vessel (apparently a
brig) had entered May-tchoo-emin harbour, and
remained there for a considerable time, that she came
from the “ Paerks” land, and went towards
Iwor-i-en, when there was noice, but our informa-
tion beyond this pomt was rather too vague for
reliance. When she had becn here, and how long,
or of what country she was, were points which only

a future visit can determine.

ENORMOUS BEAR-SKIN. 149

We were in the habit of barterimg for skins of the
fox, sable, and others as they offered, and had
purchased a few at different villages as we passed.
Upon the shed or stage I have above noticed was a
magnificent white bear-skin of an enormous size; on
my requiring to see it, four men lifted it off the
scaffold with difficulty and placed it upon the snow ;
true the skull and paws had been retained, and the
skin was what is technically termed “green,”’ that is,
moist as when taken off the carcase, and it was also
hard frozen; but an idea of its great size may
nevertheless be formed from its weight. I endea-
voured to purchase it, but thought I saw a disposition
to extortion, which I would not encourage, and
therefore refused the price demanded. Such skins
are valuable to these people, as these animals rarely
appear so low down on the coast of the Frozen Sea.
They are attacked without hesitation, frequently by
single individuals, and sanguinary contests are the
result. We met one man who was said to have
encountered a huge and savage bear with only a
species of large dagger-knife, and to have succeeded
in despatching it. He was frightfully injured in the
contest on his breast; five huge scars caused by the
claws of his adversary were visible; a terrible seam

appeared on one side of his face, and he was, more-

150 TATTOOING.

over, crippled for life. Portions of the skin of his
antagonist, which hung in his yaranga, were pointed
out by him with great satisfaction, and he proudly
displayed the tattooed marks on his chest, won by this
dearly-bought victory. Subjomed are fac-similes of
other such marks copied by myself from another

man’s breast on which they were pricked.

he ingredients for tattooing are tzow-gwit-zow,
red ochre ; toong-e-rillery, black-lead, and some kind of
blue like indigo; but this last | never saw, and do not
know whether it is an indigenous or aequired article.

Some of the “ Plover’s’” men were, as is common
among sailors, very much tattooed about the arms
and breast, and the natives having once discovered
these barbaric tokens never tired of inspecting them :
the curious and in many instances unique devices dis-
played, greatly excited their wonder and admiration ;
those of us who had not availed ourselves of this
peculiar branch of art were subjected to many queries
as to the reasons for the omission.

We were now within a short distance of the village
called Lorenne, to which our instructions had defini-

tively pointed as the probable goal of our efforts, for

; bys tidy ' StVeay #4, Tee hh

ad

| IGEHOTITTAD “iron a
mee \ AR VYOHAaMC PHA & 2’e es

|
|
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MEMENTO MORI.

Page 151.

A SAILORS GRAVE. 151

at the time those orders were written it was conjec-
tured that this was East Cape; but both Martin
and myself were now of decided opinion that a
considerable distance yet lay between us and_ that
promontory, which, however, we were determined if
possible to reach or get sight of. 7

The morning of the 22nd saw us on the road to
Lorenne, whose principal man, Belconta by name,
met us about halfway, and returned with us to his
village. At the distance of about six miles from
Lorenne, we came to a rude cross of wood which, as
may well be imagined, engrossed all our attention
for the time. Halting, we examined it with scrupu-
lous care, and I think I know nearly every turn of
the grain. I made a careful sketch of it, copying the
Russian inscription with particular attention, and
now present it to my readers iz forma veritas.
Inquiry elicited that a man lay buried beneath this
simple monument, one of the crew of a ship which
had visited here; thegfigures, 1821, on the wood
told when his clay returned to its kindred dust, and
this was all we knew of the poor departed—an instance
of the sailor’s wayward lot and frequent sad and
solitary fate.

I cut upon the cross, in two places, “H. M.S.

d

Plover,” with the date, as evidence of our visit, and

152 LORENNE NOT THE EAST CAPE.

we then resumed our journey. On espying Lorenne
we also saw two other clusters of huts, about two
miles’ distance lying between each. At Lorenne, the
foremost of the three villages, we found Yaneenga’s
brother living, and our guides desired therefore to '
remain with him. ‘To this we could not object, but
as the day was yet young, we went on in charge of
Belconta to the furthest range of seven huts, where
he held his dwelling.

The necessity of constant watchfulness in driving
was impressed upon me to day, by a rather forcible
lesson. Without heeding the road, I permitted my
sledge to overrun one of my dogs, which accident
will often lame them, and in trying to disentangle its
harness, I was bitten in the hand by the poor beast,
which in its pain inflicted a severe wound.

Very slight observation confirmed our former view
respecting the erroneous identification of Lorenne with
East Cape ; that question was soon settled, and we
became very anxious to rea¢h the next pomt, which,
as we could see nothing beyond it, might possibly be
the much-desired position: this, we were told, was
called Yandangah, with a ko-ee-mak (harbour)
contiguous ; and the contimuous trending of the
coast to the eastward led us to entertain sanguine

expectation that it would prove the fixed termination

OUR GUIDES .REFUSE TO PROCEED. 153

of our advance; we could, unfortunately, place no
settled reliance upon our observations, from various
causes, among which the frequent stopping of the
chronometer from cold was perhaps the greatest
imconvenience.

‘To our expressions of desire to proceed to Yandangah,
Mooldooyah and his wife to our surprise, returned
only replies indicative of reluctance and even refusal.
“The people at Yandangah,” said he, “ were unfriendly
to him, and he would inevitably be ‘ wahl-da,’
(knifed) if he appeared among them.” Belconta was
equally unwilling, and so all others to whom we
applied; even promises of extra reward could not
induce any one to take the place of guide. Whether
the cause of objection was real or imagined I could
not tell; it was, at any rate, well sustained, and our
chances of going to Yandangah seemed very small,
unless we went by ourselves, which would have been
not only rash, but also a great infraction of our
instructions both in letter and spirit, and of course
one or the other of these must always be observed.
However we awaited patiently the advent of the
morrow, and meanwhile made ourselves as comfortable
as might be. Belconta’s tent was of contracted
dimensions, the inner apartment being only nine feet

by five feet six inches, but we were becoming used to

154 FUTILE EFFORTS AT INSTRUCTION:

scanty space for lodgings. The old gentleman provided
us with some nice fresh venison, which agreeably
assisted in economising our provisions, and in return
for all his attention we presented him with a butcher’s
and a saddler’s knife, and some tobacco ; his wife was
made happy by the acquisition of a looking-glass, a
strmg of beads and some needles. What treasures
were these ! the jewelled casket of the bride has not
more charms for her delighted gaze than these simple
presents to this primitive people. I assure you, dear
reader, it was a sweet and unalloyed pleasure to
witness the joyous transports of our simple-minded
friends upon the acquisition of such gifts. We tried
to instruct them too, to lead them to some idea of
worlds other than their own, of people abounding in
perfection of art and skill ; Religion’s taper was lighted,
but the flame expired in its first breath, and our
labour of love was vain. After all these efforts, and
they were long continued, I had recourse to my faithful
copper fiddle, which, although now sorely bruised and
battered by its many trying peregrinations, never
refused to add its squeaking item to the general
amusement.

The dialect spoken here was identical with that at
Oongwysac and Kay-gwan, being a distinct idiom to

that more generally employed.

HALT AT CO-CONE. 155

We remained here during the meght, and were
delighted next morning by the visit of a man who
signified that he belonged to Ah-mo-leen of Yandangah,
which we had heard was the name of the chief
residing there. Very little persuasion induced him to
undertake to conduct us to that place on the morrow,
and having made satisfactory arrangements, Martin
and I set off for Lorenne to see Mooldooyah, and to
watch for opportunities for lunars, &c.

We found the yarangas here preferable to those we
had lately left; they were cleaner and more commo-
dious, both of which were appreciable advantages.
As we did not intend to make any lengthened journey,
the heavier lading of the sledges was left under care
of Mooldooyah, who was to await our return. Bidding
him and Yaneenga farewell, we started on the morning
of the 24th escorted by Pelowyo, the man who had
agreed to guide us, and another native. ‘This was one
of the finest days and most pleasant travel we had
seen throughout, and having lightened sledges we
were less tied to attention to our equipages than
hitherto.

A run of a couple of leagues brought us to Co-cone,
consisting of seven huts of tolerable size; we only
stopped there a moment to obtain a draught of water,

then speeded on, passing a river and two fresh-water

156 THE TUSKI GENTLEMAN.

lakes, besides occasional small bays of the sea, m our
transit. A steep declivity of frozen snow, on which,
while at a rapid pace, my dogs overturned, and much
scratched me, was the finish to our day’s run; at its
foot we found three yarangas, from the largest of
which, ere we had well dismounted, sprang a young
man, shouting,—‘‘ Toromah! Toromah!” in accents
of joyous welcome. Shaking us eagerly by the hand,
he rather dragged than led us into his commodious
and well-furnished habitation, and as he was a
likely sprightly young fellow, whose countenance
beamed with good-humour and _ satisfaction, we
esteemed ourselves fortunate in fallmg imto such
good hands.

I have in a preceding page described a Tuski
dandy: here let me do justice to the Tuski gentle-
man, of whom the most perfect exemplification was
undoubtedly our new friend, Ahmoleen, the second, as
IT must call him, in distinction to the son of Mooldoo-
yah, my first and fast friend.

Ahmoleen’s arrangements were in a style quite
novel to us among this people. His house, dress,
sledges, dogs, appomtments, and equipments, were
all of the first order, and conspicuous for their sur-
passing neatness and propriety; his manners were

quite a relief to the ordinary conduct of the natives,

COMFORTABLE QUARTERS. 157

and an air of self-respect visible in every action,
betokened not only his superiority, but also. his
knowledge of it.

Entermg the yarang with our host, we were
ceremoniously presented to his neat and pretty little
wife, who soon showed that she had been well chosen
for her industrious habits. A canopy of white sacking,
variegated with printed cottons, was quickly spread
over head, and deer-skins of beauty and fine condition
laid down for our repose. All was bright and clean ;
not a speck was observable on the walrus-skin floor, nor
a stray hair lodged upon one’s dress. Every prepa-
ration that a hearty welcome could suggest was put
in force for our comfort; we were divested of our
heavy dresses, and reclined at ease in a moderate
temperature, for Ahmoleen saw at once our distress
in great heat, and instantly reduced it. In a very
brief space of time a delightful, because clean, meal
of boiled venison was served, upon which our host
would have had us surfeit ourselves. He seemed
very desirous that we should remain some time with
him, counting five upon his fingers, to denote the
days he would have us stay, and seeming greatly
disappomted when we intimated our inability to
accept his kind invitation. We smoked our pipes in

quiet conversation, after which our host, with

158 COMFORTABLE QUARTERS.

delicate perception, seeing that we were fatigued
with our journey and the cold air, which is mightily
conducive to sleep, forbore to weary us more with
many interrogatories, which he must have been eager
to satisfy, and having our couches arranged, left us

to repose.

TUSKI MAN,

CHAPTER XI.

Vexatious detention.—Attempts at instruction —Tuski delicacy.—Enmity
explained.—The coat of mail.— Yandangah.—Noonahmone.—Startling
information.—Farewell to Ahmoleen.—Tragic tidings.—Return to the
“ Plover.”

Wen were greatly annoyed to find the 25th the
reverse of its predecessor: the wind blew fiercely,
and snow fell heavily, quite marring all hopes of
inspection and advance. Thus disappomted in our
desires, we sought occupation im-doors, first by
making observations with the magnet, and afterwards
becoming sufficiently engaged in the society of our
host. He was full of conversation, and never ceased
to ply us with questions respecting our visit, our
country, and our possessions, displaying great
shrewdness in his queries, and, generally, a ready
perception of our explanations. On the subject of
religion alone his ideas were almost entirely at
fault ; doubtless we were not the most apt teachers,
although endeavouring to communicate only the

primitive principles, and those in the — simplest

.

160 GENEROUS HOSPITALITY.

manner. Two broad statements were, however,
clearly comprehended, and. assented to, but whether
believed, he alone knows: these were, that those
wearing the cross should do good, which would
msure their future elevation; while contrary
behaviour would infallibly lead to very disagreeable
torment by fire.

The generous fellow would not allow us to touch
our own provisions while staying with him;
abundance of venison, prepared in many ways, was
always in readiness to meet our requirements ; nor
would Ahmoleen receive any present, imagining that
they were tendered in payment of his hospitality,
from which his native pride revolted; and it was
only upon full and repeated assurance that these
were designed for gifts to our friends, and had been
sent by our own chief for that purpose, that he
consented to receive anything.

Ahmoleen had made many visits to the Russian
settlement on the Kolyma, and had become much
softened in his address by even this slight intercourse.
He possessed much furniture, and other property, of
immense value here, obtaimed by barter at the annual
far. Wealthy was he, too, in remdeer and. other
Tuski goods, and much looked up to by the people

of Yandangah, which was between two and _ three

A METAL COAT. 16]

miles distant from ''choolgen, the name given by
Ahmoleen to his yarangas. I am of opinion, indeed,
that he put this slight distance between himself and the
Yandangahnites, with a view to partial isolation, and
if this was really the case, his taste must be admired,
for a dirtier set than the denizens of that village it
was seldom my lot to see, even among the Tuski.
The mystery of the difficulty in obtaining guides to
Tchoolgen was elucidated by Ahmoleen, who stated
that he was at enmity with those of Lorenne. I
fancy, however, that the hostility was of a very
passive nature, and would only be displayed upon
accidental collision; and Ahmoleen assured us that
any guide who might have accompanied us to his
habitation would have been safe as ourselves.

Durmg our frequent conversations a difficulty
presented itself, which was only solved after much
explanation. Ahmoleen repeatedly expressed a desire
for a Piligwmten Eran, which puzzled me beyond
measure. I had by this time acquired an extensive
vocabulary, and really fancied few things could bother
me; but here I was completely mystified. Pilhg-
winten certaimly meant metal, and Eran meant coat,
or, as he pointed to it, waistcoat ; but, good gracious!
what did the man want of a metal coat? this was a

poser ; and I became so utterly lost in the mazes of

M

162 NATIVE MAP.

speculation as to this grand mystery, that it never
occurred to me that it was truly a metal coat, or rather
a coat of mail, that my friend desired to possess.
One, of a certain sort, he had indeed already, and
brought it forth for my mspection, as I will, reader,
for yours. It consisted of back and breast-plates of
walrus-hide, at least a quarter of an imch thick, and
in some places double, a very board for toughness,
having been dried gradually in the sun. Upon these
were fastened flat and thin iron plates overlapping each
other. They were certainly of very little use in
fortifymg the hide, through which no arrow would be
likely to pass, and were therefore only-an additional
incumbrance to an already very clumsy article, which
was in fact, as Ahmoleen explained, too heavy to be
worn in combats where activity was required. Hence
his desire for one of lighter make. He seemed in
some way to have heard of chain mail, as he described
it by locking his crooked fingers into one another.
Ahmoleen constructed a sort of map of the villages
along the coast, together with the islands in the straits
and opposite shore, which led us to conclude that
East Cape would be near the village of ~ Po-orten.
The ensuing day was in the early part as little favour-
able as before, and we were almost in despair of

obtaining observations ; late in the evening however

AHMOLEEN’S MAP OF BEHRING’S STRAITS.

Page 162.

niki ;
es ary Rak ov
sits: W584 ’
ni Sot a

JOURNEY TO YANDANGAH. 163

we were enabled to take lunar distances with Jupiter,
by which the resulting longitude led us to feel
pretty well assured that we were not yet so near
East Cape as we had supposed.

The 28th saw us still captive at Lorenne, and
although we were singularly fortunate m our place of
detention the delay was a serious misfortune; but
clear weather was indispensable to the due performance
of our duties, and snow fell incessantly.

So we set to work to exchange more information,
and received much enlightenment upon the mean-
ing of the word Tuski, which was of great import-
ance in influencing my views respecting the tribe,
although my present conclusions have come only
tardily and after much reflection.

The opening day of March enabled us to set forth
once more, now for the purpose of viewing Yandangah.
After bordering the coast for about three and a half
miles, we observed the settlement spread over a large
extent of uneven ground. It consisted of twenty-
six huts mtermingled with numerous boats, and a very
great number of whale-bones placed in all positions,
and scattered in all directions. The weather was
unfavourable, turning out snowy, but this did not
deter us from gettmg some information of, if real,

great importance.

bo

M

164, RETURN TO LORENNE.

Indefinite communications were made that the stern
part of a vessel had been thrown up on the “ Paerk ”’
shore, and that the natives of that coast had obtained
knives, pots, and guns, from the wreck. ‘These news
were said to have come from Po-orten, whither they
were brought from E-mah-leen, the chief of the
islands near East Cape, about eight months since.
We passed the night in a small hut very prettily placed
on the cliff, about thirty feet above the sea, but the
picturesque exterior little atoned for the discomfort
inside ; hut, host, and all else, were models of filth.
The people were moreover brutish and rude, and
begged importunately for everything we displayed.

Before continuing the journey towards Hast Cape,
which was clearly yet far distant, we resolved to
return to Lorenne for a fresh supply of provisions
and to communicate with Mooldooyah, who might
become alarmed at our protracted absence.

Accordingly, on the 3rd, despite heavy snow and
bitmg wind, we started under the care of two
attentive and able guides; reached the village of
Co-cone after dark, and remained there that might,
renewing our journey next morning in a lull, for the
weather was very bad.

We reached Lorenne at ai early hour, and were

received with delight by our faithful friends, of whom

MOOLDOOYAH AND HIS WIFE. 165

we were sorry to find Yaneenga suffering greatly from
some affection of the back and chest, probably induced
by the long exposure to cold and wet lately experi-
enced. | Mooldooyah was informed of our desire to
proceed to Noonahmone, and consented with great
reluctance, declming to go himself, partly m conse-
quence of Yaneenga’s illness, and also that he would
not consider himself safe in that quarter. But, as he
observed, the people would scarcely dare to risk
condign punishment by injurimg any of the “ Atwoits
Callowole,” with whom, moreover, they could have no
cause of enmity.

As our absence would now be of uncertain length,
Jt was arranged that Mooldooyah and his wife should
return to their home at Wootair, visiting the “ Plover”
on the way to report progress. He furnished us
with some of his dogs, and obtained a trustworthy
guide for us, whose name was At-tchoo-re-gen. On
the 6th we set off towards Noonahmone, touched at
Co-cone, and reached Tchoolgen in the afternoon. We
remained there all night to the great delight of our
friend Ahmoleen, who next morning accompanied us
to Noonahmone. We crossed Yandangah harbour,
called in the charts “ Bay of St. Lawrence,” (a splendid
haven, in which were two fine islands) and reached

Noonahmone about four in the afternoon; from this a

166 VIEW OF THE EASTERN CAPE OF ASIA.

headland to the eastward arrested our attention, and
making towards it we observed therefrom the three
islands im the straits and land still trending to
the eastward; then returning to Noonahmone we
remained at that place for the night.

The information gained here respectmg a wreck
was much the same as that given at Yandangah, but
our communicant was so stupid as to damp our
ardent search for further particulars.

On the 8th we started for Cheengeen, and while
driving round a bay to its eastern extreme, mounted
a tall hummock of rough ice on the sea, whence we
saw with great distinctness the three islands in the
middle of the straits and the loom of the opposite
shore. We took a sketch and observations at this
point, after which we went on to Cheengeen. From
this position, which was high, we had at last the
great satisfaction of viewing, without a shadow of
doubt, the Eastern Cape of Asia, risimg to a con-
siderable height above the sea, and crowned with
rough points and a large and populous village.

Respecting the wreck, about which we naturally
made inquiries on every possible opportunity, we
were here told that only fragments of a hull and stern
frame had been thrown up, from which, in place of

pots or knives, only nails had been drawn. The

PROJECTED VISIT TO THE EAST CAPR, 167

news had been communicated by boats, apparently
seven or eight months ago, but any more than this
we could not learn with certainty.

We were now all agog to proceed to Po-orten, the
village upon the Cape, but our desires were impera-
tively checked by the refusal of any one to accompany
us, and the positive assurance of the great risk we
should incur by persisting in the attempt. <A
different language was said to be spoken there, and
the natives represented to be at feud with their
neighbours, and of a fierce intractable disposition.
Thus urgently warned, we did not consider ourselves
justified im proceeding, particularly without guides,
and relinquished the ardent hope with deep regret,
which has never since diminished in my mind.
We therefore made preparations for return to the
“Plover ;’ took sketches of the surrounding land and
islands, made such observations as were possible,
obtained specimens of black-lead ore and colouring
stone, and distributed a few presents, our stock of
which was by this time getting low. On the 9th we
took a last look at Hast Cape, and quitting Cheengeen
-commenced our homeward journey.

Noonahmone was passed without delay, and we
reached 'I'’choolgen at seven in the evening, passing one

more night inthe yarang of our obliging and agreeable

165 DEATH OF ONE OF OUR MEN.

friend Ahmoleen, who had escorted us on the late
journey, and was now full of tribulation at our final
separation.

On the 10th we ran through Co-cone to Lorenne,
at which place, from a sledge breaking down, we did
not arrive until late at might. Our instructions had
indicated Lorenne as a place of great importance ; we
desired therefore to make observations conclusive of
its position, and having been directed to put up an
inscription, set about preparing it, carving upon a
piece of board the “ Plover’s” name with place and
date of wintering.

Bad weather setting in detained us here until the
15th, very much to our annoyance, for several reasons,
of which the principal must by and by be touched
upon, as without it my narrative would be incomplete.
On the 15th then we departed, and on the road to
Maytchooemin met a native of Wootair, who informed
us of the death of one of our men. We received
these tidings with sadness rather than surprise, having
long feared that one poor fellow approached his end,
and making little doubt that this was he of whom the
native spoke.

Our return was accomplished with much less of
incident and delay than had marked our outward

journey ; most of the desired information was already

RETURN TO THE “ PLOVER.” 169

obtained, and, except in very bad weather, we seldom
delayed for any length of time. We reached the
“Plover”? at even on the 20th of March, sufficiently
rejoiced to be once more among our companions, by
whom we were pleasantly welcomed, and again to

know the comforts of cleanliness and the luxury of a

bed.

{ hil
iN i i)
Lyi

WOMAN AND CHILD.

CHAPTER XII.
A Tuski Feast.—A Tuski Smoke.—The Ladies’ Privilege.—The draught.—

The Tuski Plague-——A sacred ceremony.—The Shaman.—Description
of boats, rope, &e.—Embroidery, carving, &c.—Fire-making.

I nave forborne throughout my narrative to
enter into more than occasional notice of the food of
the Tuski, and their modes of preparing it, thinking
it better to present at one picture thé numerous
varieties, which indeed are all provided at feasts
given by the wealthy, but in part only at more
moderate entertamments.

I propose now to set before you in detail the
history of a Tuski repast of the most sumptuous
nature, as myself and companions partook of it, and
trust you may find it as much to your taste as they
do to theirs. It is, I believe, with nearly all people
in a primitive condition, the first and paramount
duty of hospitality to provide the visitor with food
immediately on his entrance, and such was the rule
in Tuski customs. First was brought in on a huge

wooden tray, a number of small fish, uncooked, but

A TUSKI FEAST. leh

intensely frozen. At these all the natives set to
work, and we essayed, somewhat ruefully, it must be
confessed, to follow their example, but, being all
unused to such gastronomic process, found our-
selves, as might be expected, rather at a loss how to
commence. From this dilemma, however, our host
speedily extricated us, by practical demonstration of
the correct mode of action, and under his certainly
very able tuition we shortly became more expert. But
alas ! a new difficulty was soon presented ; our native
companions, we presume, either made a hasty bolt of
each morsel, or had perhaps a relish for the flavour of
the viands now under consideration. Not so ourselves ;
it was sadly repugnant to our palates, for, aided by
the newly-acquired knowledge that the fish were in
the same condition as when taken from the water,
uncleaned and unembowelled, we speedily discovered
that we could neither bolt nor retain the fragments
which, by the primitive aid of teeth and nails, we
had rashly detached from our piscatorial share.

It was to no purpose that our host pressed us to
_ “fall to;” we%could not manage the consumption of
this favourite preparation (or rather lack thereof),
and succeeded with difficulty in evading his earnest
solicitations.

The next course was a mess of green stuff, looking

ize A TUSKI FEAST.

as if carefully chopped up, and this was also hard
frozen. To it was added a lump of blubber, which
the lady presidmg, who did all the carving, dexte-
rously cut into slices, with a knife, like a cheese-
monger’s, and apportioned out, at different quarters
of the huge tray before mentioned, which was used
throughout the meal, together with a modicum of
the grass-hke stuff, to the company; the only
distinction in favour of the strangers and guests of
high degree being that their slices were cut much
thinner than for the rest. We tasted this compound,
ANG) ye eK we didn’t like it; at this no one will
wonder ; the blubber speaks for itself, and the other
stuff, which really was not very unpalatable, we
discovered in after-times to be the waruminated food
of reindeer which had been slaughtered ; at least, so
we were told, but I am not quite clear on this point.
Our dislike to the dish had no offensive effect upon
our host, who only seemed to be astonished at our
strange want of taste, and with the rest of the guests,
soon cleared the board, the managing dame putting
the finishing stroke by a rapid sweep of her not too
scrupulously clean fingers over the dish, by way of
clearmg off the fragments, to prepare for the
reception of the next delicacy. After this interesting

operation she conveyed her digits to her mouth, and,

A TUSKI FEAST. lia

engulfing them for a brief period, withdrew them
quite in apple-pie order once more.

The board was now again replenished, this time
with viands less repellent to our unnurtured tastes.
Boiled seal and walrus flesh appeared, and our
hospitable friends were greatly relieved when they
beheld us assist in the consumption of these items,
which, bemg utterly devoid of flavour, were dis-
tasteful only from their extreme toughness and mode
of presentation, but we did not, of course, desire to
appear too singular or squeamish. Next came a
portion of whale’s flesh, or, rather, whale’s skin; this
was perfect ebony in hue, and we discovered some
apprehensions respecting its fitness as an article of
food; but our fears were groundless. It was cut and
recut crosswise imto diminutive cubes; venturing
upon one of which we were agreeably surprised to
find it possessing a cocoa-nut flavour, like which also
it ate, “very short ;’’ indeed so much astonished were
we on this occasion that we had consumed a very
considerable number of these cubes, and with great
relish too, before we recovered from our wonder,
This dish was ever afterwards a favourite with me. On
its disappearance a very limited quantity of boiled
reindeer meat, fresh and fat, was served up, to which

we did ample justice ; then came portions of the gum

174 SMOKING.

of the whale, in which the ends of the bone lay still
embedded, and I do not hesitate to declare that this
was perfectly delicious, its flavour being, as nearly as
I can find a parallel, like that of cream cheese. This,
which the Tuski call their sugar, was the wind-up to
the repast and ourselves, and we were fain to admit
that, after the rather unpleasant auspices with which
our feast commenced, the finale was by no means to
be contemned.

Each of those who had borne a part in the
proceedings of the evening now threw himself back
in an evident condition of complacency ; ourselves
only, unused to such a fable dhdte, experienced
symptoms of slight oppression.

A new medium of luxury was now put in requi-
sition—I mean the practice of smoking — which
demands a special notice. Before our visit to this
people all the tobacco they used was obtaimed from
the Russians by barter, principally at the settlement
of Kolyma, but also, I conjecture, at the fort on the
Anadyr. It is of course very sparingly supplied,
and having been brought so great a distance, is much
valued. In order to eke out the scanty quantity
as far as compatible with its enjoyment, it is broken
up into minute fragments, and mixed with wood,

similarly small,. but differently manufactured, and

ECONOMY IN THE USE OF TOBACCO, 175

showing in a remarkable degree how the savage,
whose share of life’s supplies is limited, economises
and turns to account every scrap which falls in his
way. ‘The fragments of drift-wood thrown but rarely
on this shore are considered with the greatest atten-
tion as to the best use to which they may be devoted,
and to which they are then adapted with infinite
patience and care. A small knife, with a bent blade
and a handle generally made of the tip of a deer’s
horn, is in great use among them, and employed to a
surprising extent; with it they thin down sticks to
the required size for whip-handles or walking-staves,
and it is this operation which provides wood to mix
with the tobacco. No chips are hacked off, that
would be useless waste. With the fore finger on
the back of his queer little kmfe, the operator runs
from one extreme to the other of the stick, in a
rapid succession of strokes, detaching each time a
gossamer twisted shred, of the same unbroken length
as the stick. It is wonderful to sce the regularity
with which string after string of woody fibre is
separated, and the skill and patience—well nigh equal
to that of the Chinese, who rubs down a nail to make a
needle—employed to reduce the wand to its required
proportions. When finished, it leaves the hand of

the operator as smoothly rounded and nicely tapered

176 MODE OF SMOKING.

as if produced by the lathe. The shreds are col-
lected in a bundle, cut and recut across and across,
until sufficiently fine, when they are mixed with the
tobacco in proportions varyimmg with the quantity of
the latter in stock, but generally, I believe, about
one-third part of wood is used. The mixture is then
put carefully away in a well-made bag, of dressed
seal-skin, from which the small pouch hanging to
the girdle, with picker, steel, and tinder-bag, is
replenished.

The Tuski use pipes of wood and ivory, either
divided along the middle into two parts, for con-
venience of cleaning, or with a large trap-door in the
under part, which allows a few pieces of dry grass to
be laid inside, to absorb the moisture, and when
closed, is covered with a strip of leather, which
effectually keeps it air-tight. When about to smoke,
a pinch of hair is plucked from the deerskin frock
and pushed with the pricker down the very small
hole in the bowl of the pipe: this is to prevent the
tobacco from drawing through; from the pouch at
the girdle a minute quantity of the mixture, not more
than half a thimbleful, is then put upon this, and the
smoker then strikes fire with steel and fragment of
pebble, generally a tmy morsel of cornelian or agate,

into the smallest imaginable piece of a kind of fungus,

* af.

A TUSKI SMOKE. we,"

resembling German tinder, which is evidently very
scarce, and used with the greatest economy. But one
indraught of smoke is taken, a long, deep inspiration,
the entire volume passing into the lungs; in a
second or two it is expelled, in a similar manner, with
a long, loud aspiration, sounding betwixt a groan and
a sigh: this stertorous kind of breathing is repeated
several times, heavily, and as if from pain, the person
closing the mouth each time, as if gasping for breath.
These operations appear to afford intense enjoyment,
and are possibly of use in clearing the lungs. The
process of pipe-cleaning is intrusted to the women,
who replenish the dry grass in the body of the pipe ;
the refuse deposit is their perquisite, and devoured
with great gusto, the essential oil of the tobacco
forming apparently a pleasant excitant to their oil-be-
clogged palates. The smoke quite concluded, the
natives betake themselves to the vessels containing
water; and we were perfectly amazed at their
capacity m this respect,—I should think each person
would swallow at least half a gallon at a draught.
No doubt so much fluid is necessary to dissolve the
quantities of oleaginous food consumed. The draught
is a finishing stroke: all immediately he down to
sleep, unless, as was to our annoyance most. fre-

quently the case, on occasions of our visits, religious

N

178 THE TUSKI PLAGUE.

or rejoicing ceremonies are to be practised, when im
come those horrid drums, and keep one in misery for a
couple of hours ; and heartily glad were we ever when,
drums and yells hushed, skin walls let down, and
lamps extinguished, we were permitted to he down
and dream of “ marble halls,’ or more genial regions
than those into which we had adventured.

I have said that the principal reason for disincli-
nation to remain in the native huts longer than was
dictated by absolute necessity, must imperatively be
noticed ; and I now do so with as light a touch as
will convey an idea of the absolutely dreadful nature
of this objection. ;

The persons, clothes, habitations, and even dogs of
the Tuski, were covered with vermin, not in a slight
degree, but absolutely swarming; and it is doubtless
from this cause that they clip the hair on the head.
The first days of our journey brought the horrible
conviction that it was hopeless to avoid the plague
while in contact with the people. In vain our clothes
_were changed and washed repeatedly ; in vam we
attempted to isolate ourselves as much as possible ;
the evil increased each day ; and at last our condition
became insupportably tormenting; those of excitable
temperament beimg denied sleep or rest by the

constant irritation, and reaching a state bordering

-
——— Oe ae

A SACRED CEREMONY. 179

upon madness. It was particularly when repose was
courted that our torment was greatest. When
travelling out of doors the cold checked the attacks
of the foe, which only resumed their onslaught with
new vigour when reanimated by the great heat of the
yarangas. This was the most fearful infliction
experienced during our stay in Tuski land, and far
surpassed anything I ever suffered; producing im me
an agitation of the nerves, like St. Vitus’ dance.

A few days’ rest prepared us for renewed efforts.
On the 24th of March I was dispatched to Wootair,
for the purpose of obtainimg magnetic and other
observations ; these were delayed by the occurrence
of bad weather ; and I returned to the ship only on
the Ist of April. During my stay at Woorel I was
witness to a ceremony of a highly curious and
peculiar nature; but I was unable to form from it,
and others of a like description, more than a very
faint idea of the structure of their religion.

My friend Ahmoleen had been so fortunate as to
kill a small whale, which was a circumstance to be
celebrated with feasting and rejoicing. Upon the
bank above the sea was lit a fire, into which were
thrown the entrails of a puppy, just strangled ; its
carcase was then cast into the wave. Fish, venison,

blubber, and some other sorts of food were boiled
N 2

180 THE SHAMAN.

over this fire, and minced very fine; the head, fins,
and tail of the whale, were disposed near, and upon
them were laid small portions of the cooked food, a
few beads, some tobacco, and mites of several other
of their most valuable articles. The food, when
cooked, was handed round in separate platters to
the assembled crowd, each of whom was _ also
presented with a small strip of tobacco; nor was I
omitted in this attention, although the latter article
had been obtained from me for the purpose. After
all had been served, and some time allowed to
elapse, the offermgs upon the fish, together with
pieces cut from its head, tail and fins were consumed
in the fire. All was conducted in almost unbroken
silence ; even the queries, which with ill judgment I
presumed upon my friendship to put to Ahmoleen,
who was the person principally officiating, were
responded to in an under tone; and the company,
comprising the greater part of the villagers, seemed
impressed with a sense of the sacred nature of the
ceremonies. Inside his yarang, Mooldooyah, Ahmo-
leen’s father, whom I have before said I believed to be
a shaman, or priest, beat incessantly upon the largest
drum I ever saw among the people, chanting mo-
notonously in a succession of quivering notes, and

drawling out the words to a great length. The

TUSKI SONG OF REJOICING. 181

burden of his ditty, which might easily have been
taken for a dirge rather than a song of rejoicing, ran
very much in this way :—‘Ah..... mie. 0
Heo: Gite Kher sa POO... ok? ahi ry: h, Wahl
aes Gale 2 Ma Owe 2 tm, 2. Kal Marc,

meee... Meo ally. Waste, eu POGr s+ ¢ ere ee ah, Ka
Pere. poo.....kah;’’* and so on, ad libitum, with an
occasional change into “Ah..... Herat! Ieee cae

aS Ss ah,’ as his breath denied utterance to the
words. There was much to strike one as extraordi-
nary in the appearance of this minister of a rude
religion. Seated crosslegged in his tent, nude from
the waist upwards, his body swaying to and fro with
the imtonations of his chant, perspiration streaming
from every pore of his vast bulk, the huge tambourine
filling the entire space with its reverberations, and,
above all, the expression of conviction impressed
upon his lmeaments of the sacred importance of his
duty, Mooldooyah acquired a new and imposing
character, far different to his ordinary nature.

This ceremony, and the one we witnessed with so
much effect when lost in the snow, together with the
slighter mdications of religious practices displayed at
different times, lead one, in some degree, to draw a

parallel between them and the ancient observances,

* Ahmoleen a whale has killed good, good, the whale, the whale, &e.

182 NATIVE BOATS.

both Jewish and Roman; one cannot fail especially
to be struck with the resemblance of the lately related
ceremonies to the proceedings of the heathen Augurs
and the burnt and meat offerings of the Jews.
Mooldooyah and his wife, Yaneengah, had both
been baptised by Russian priests, upon a visit to
Kolyma: he received the name of Petroko, or Peter ;
she was christened Anna; but these titles, together
with the bare recollection of the ceremony, a small
Greek cross, and what I conjectured to be certificates
of baptism, were all that remained of the sacred rite.
I had a good opportunity here of examining the
very curious boats of the natives, which serve alike
to transport great quantities of goods, or for the
purposes of the chase. They are light but very
tough, being composed of walrus-skins, which, as I
have before noticed, are beautifully prepared, sewn
over a light frame of wood. They are flat-bottomed,
and nearly wall-sided ; about forty inches in breadth
at the widest part of the gunwales, and a foot or
fourteen inches less below, decreasmg in width to
either end, which is just wide enough to admit a
man’s body. ‘The edges of the gunwale are neatly
worked over with thin hide or strips of whalebone.
They are propelled with great speed by paddles,

which are also used in bow and stern to direct their

NATIVE MANUFACTURES. 183

course. ‘The smooth surface of the walrus-skin offers
little resistance to their passage through the water,
and they are carefully prevented from becoming
sodden or incrusted, being carried on shore the instant
they are done with, turned over and beaten with stout
sticks, to drive off the moisture, and keep the skin in
shape, as it would otherwise be lable to bag.

The weapons used for whale hunting are lances and
harpoons, both tipped with ivory barbs, but I do not
know whether lines are used, although I think it
probable from the great quantity manufactured and
its excellence, the lines of walrus-hide particularly,
which are immensely tough. These are made by
cutting round and round a skin without a break until
it is all used; the rope is soaked in water until
quite soft, then rolled and stretched repeatedly ; by
these operations it becomes beautifully round without
any edges visible, and of an uniform thickness
throughout.

The Tuski understand the art of tanning, and are
able to produce very fair specimens, but practise it
principally with sealskin, which is dressed im all
colours ; the white is very delicate and much prized.
Deerskins are dressed with ammonia, red-ochre, and
other materials, they are rendered very soft and

pliable, but the mode of curing gives them an

184 EMBROIDERY, CARVING, ETC.

exceedingly unpleasant odour, which is only imper-
ceptible in cold weather.

Embroidery is much practised, principally with the
long white hair from the belly of the reindeer ; strips
and figures of differently coloured leather, dyed fur
and feathers of the eider-duck are also employed for
ornament; besides, as I have before mentioned,
designs in black lead or ochre, and a species of parti-
coloured patchwork or “ insertion.”

Much ingenuity is displayed in carving articles from
ivory, in which employment one of the tribe at this
village was a proficient. He made ducks, geese, seals,
canoes, and many other curious toys and models, and
was also very fond of carving figures ; a pipe of ivory,
which he made for me in about six hours, had on
the bow] a face in front and on either side, the back
was filled up by a figure less than an inch high seated
upon a block, having one leg crossed upon the knee of
the other. This was a very handsome and well-
finished piece of sculpture. Another man here was
in great request as a maker and ornamenter of wooden
pipes, particularly for inlaying them with lead or solder,
which after our arrival was practised to a much greater
extent than previously.

‘he snow-shoes in use among this people are

generally about two feet in length, broad and flat, the

TUSKI MEDICAL TREATMENT. 185

fore part eight inches in width, tapering to a point
behind, where, to prevent sinking in the snow, a piece
of whalebone four inches broad and eighteen long, is
attached; the nettings are of seal or walrus-hide.
For smooth ice or snow, shods of carved ivory, having
serrated edges, are fastened under the moccasin, and
prove of great service.

I am surprised that we never saw any kind of
spectacles or protection from the blinding glare of the
snow in spring time, for the people suffer dreadfully
from snow-blindness and opthalmia. These ailments
and headache they relieve greatly by perforating the
skin on the temples, forming a sort of seton, and
frequent application was made to our obliging surgeon
for the performance of this operation. I did not learn
anything respecting any other remedies they employ
in illness, excepting scarification. In the spring,
nature relieves the system by copious vicarious
bleeding, which they do not check.

The journey to Kolyma occupies, we were told, a
period of six months; that to the other place they
visit, conjectured to be the Fort on the Anadyr, takes
four. While we were on the coast no one departed,
or we should have noticed their preparations with care,
but some men had been several times, although

certainly not, as Wrangell supposes, passing their lives

186 NATIVE TRADE.

in such journeys. Mooldooyah, the miscalled Mis-
sionary, and Amtin, were of the number who had
thus travelled, and the latter knew more on the subject
than any one except Ahmoleen of Yandangah, who
described, and even named, two or three of the
Russian traders, among whom he spoke of one Simon,
a man of very obese proportions, which it was fine
fun to my friend to mimic, for, as I have before
noticed, this talent they possess in a considerable degree.
The journeys to Kolyma are undertaken with rein-
deer and large covered sledges ; furs and ivory are taken
to be exchanged for tobacco in the leaf, of a very
inferior nature ; common rough beads, generally of a
dull opaque blue; knives ; printed cottons, of which
loose flowing dresses are made to go over the fur
clothes in place of the okonch ; probably also a little
sugar, and I rather think very small quantities of
spirits, as ‘‘ kamisse,”’ or more properly “ ay-ke-mish,”’
doubtless a corruption’ of ayak-memil, (fire-water)
was by no means unknown to them and eagerly sought
for. To obtain it no sacrifice was considered too
great, and the most sacred ties were loosed with
indifference in its pursuit. We were much puzzled
for a long time to tell how fire was produced each
morning in the huts,—the husband evidently gave no

assistance in the way of steel and tinder, but at last we

HOW TO LIGHT A FIRE. 187

found out all about it. A piece of flat board has a
number of small holes made in it, mto one of which
one end of a pointed stick is placed, the other
extremity fitting into a sort of breast-plate, put on by
the woman officiating, who with a bow works the
stick to and fro rapidly, just as in drillmg ahole. In
about ten minutes, under favourable circumstances,
she succeeds in detaching burning fibres of the wood :
these are hastily put mto a handful of dried grass,
which envelopes them, and by rapid motion through
the air kindles into flame. This is a most laborious
operation, and the poor women were loud in their
expressions of joy when we struck fire with lucifers
for them ; a solitary act of the kind was a great boon,
but a present of half a dozen matches brought down

blessings on one’s head.

TUSKI PIPES.

CHAPTER XIII.

Matricide, a deed of horror.—The Bride’s departure.—A novel punishment.
— Snow-Blindness. — Companionship. — Refraction. — Games. — The
Cripple-—Amusements of children.—Cutting out.—Caymgliche the
grateful.—The ungrateful Stranger.—Summary.

A custom exists with this people which must shock
the least delicate sensibilities of civilisation, so utterly
repugnant is it to all laws human or divine. Tidings
were one morning brought to the ship that one of the
elder women of Woorel had died on the previous
night. Enquiring into the circumstances of her
decease, we were informed with the most perfect
indifference of manner, that she had been ‘“ Wah-let-
tah” (stabbed) by her son. We could not at first
conceive this horrible statement to be true, but unmis-
takeable signs put it beyond a doubt, nor did our
remarks on the frightful nature of the act elicit the
slightest token of reciprocal feeling. Why should.
not the old woman die? aged and feeble, weary of life,
anda burden to herself and others, she no longer

desired to cumber the earth, and claimed of him who

MATRICIDE. 189

owned nearest relationship, the friendly stroke which
should let out her scanty remnant of existence. Her
desire was obeyed with an apathy only to be accounted
for by the enshrouding veil of custom, and her life
‘was ended by him to whom she had given it, and
whose first throbbings she had cherished. What more
ghastly, more unnatural than this! ‘To take life in
any way is fearful; infanticide revolts the senses ; but
for a man to proceed with the utmost deliberation to
cut the fast diminishing thread of existence of his
mother, of her who gave him birth and nursed his
feeble ray of existence into strength, is a deed of which
the idea curdles the warm blood in one’s veins, and
creates dark feelings of horror and dismay.
Returning on the first of April to the ship, I
received instructions the same evening to depart on
the morrow with a large party of the natives to a
place called En-mil-lane, situated at a considerable
distance along the coast to the westward. The party
I joined was evidently conducting a bride to her new
home, together with her dowry, with which six or
seven sledges were heavily laden. It consisted of
large bladders of very beautiful pemmican, venison
fat, reindeer skins and clothes, some few trinkets
obtained from ourselves, and other matters, but the

provision greatly preponderated. The bridegroom,

190 A BRIDAL “PARTY:

who escorted the damsel, was much younger than his
bride, and treated with very little distinction by herself
and the rest of the party. I should think there is no
waste of tendre amour in this clime; the present
occasion looked very business-like indeed. We passed -
four or five days on the journey, halting each night at
some one of the little villages, which were very com-
fortless, and I was glad when we reached Enmillane,
a large and populous village near Cape Atchen, from
which a sweeping view of great extent may be
obtained of the coast, both to the south-east and
north-west. I had now reached the farthest point
attaied by any of our company to the westward, as
Mr. Martin and myself had done to the eastward on
the former protracted journey. The whole distance
in a bee-line from our farthest to the east and west, or
more properly north-east and north-west from the ship,
were not perhaps more than a hundred and twenty, and
sixty miles respectively, but many hundreds of miles
were passed over in their accomplishment, from the
uregularity of the coast-line and frequent occasions of
return.

On this last journey I had no civilised companion ;
for eleven days Tuski were my sole comrades, nor
had I the shghtest uneasiness among them, although

now visiting a quarter quite new to us, and of whose

MY TRAVELLING COMPANIONS. 191

people many had never seen the Atwoit or its
Callowole. Secure in the friendly animus nearly
always displayed, and now speaking the language
with some facility, l jogged along with my savage
friends quite complacently, and never was allowed to
lag behind or need assistance ; an extra dog would be
speedily afforded if my own team lacked speed to
keep pace with the rest, and on all occasions of
halting, unharnessing, &c., many willing hands
superseded my own efforts.

We were singularly unfortunate during this trip
in the weather, and in consequence I made very few
observations for position, the dipping-needle accom-
panied me as usual (together with the copper fiddle,
we three were inseparable), and I obtained a few
results of the magnetic declination and intensity, but
otherwise little of importance was achieved beyond
gaining additional knowledge of the manners and
customs of this very peculiar people. Some curious
but cruel modes of punishing the dogs were witnessed,
which one could scarcely suppose would even be
imvented as a chastisement. The dogs turn very
sulky and obstinate sometimes; I have frequently
seen them stop short im a most determined manner,
either offended with their fellows, the road, or the

driver, and scarcely any amount of punishment, in

192 TREATMENT OF DOGS.

the regular way, will then induce them to budge. If
the whip is applied, they throw themselves down im
the snow, howl vigorously at first, their cries gradually
subsiding imto a short moan at each blow; occa-
sionally a good whipping has the desired effect, and
the dog resumes its labour, but the struggle for
supremacy between master and beast is often pro-
tracted and severe. I have seen men, who knew the
temper of the dog they were about to punish,
deliberately dispose themselves to the task, place one
foot upon their sledge, and, throwing back their arms
to clear their dress, rain down blow after blow upon
the wretched creature, sometimes for ten minutes or
a quarter of an hour continuously ; it is seldom this
treatment fails of success, and the beast, if subdued,
becomes tractable enough for a long time: but on
one occasion, Amtin, a man of a particularly cold-
blooded and savage nature, bemg displeased with the
conduct of one of his dogs, quietly drew his knife,
stabbed the animal in two places, unharnessed it,
wiped the blade of his weapon on its coat, and
proceeded on his visit to the ship without the least
concern.

When ordinary modes of chastisement have failed,
the proceedings then instituted are very curious

indeed. The driver gets off his sledge, seizes the

A NOVEL PUNISHMENT. 193

the dog which has misconducted itself, and makes a
nice little hole in the snow, in which he arranges the
unfortunate wretch’s nose with the greatest care and
attention to its suitable position ; having thus made
due preparation, he pounds away at the snout of his
victim with the butt-end of his whip, which is gene-
rally a piece of heavy flat ivory, in the most
remorseless manner. I used, particularly on_ first
viewing this novel punishment, to be under great
fears that the noses of the poor beasts must mevitably
be broken or crushed, but no such consequence
ensued, nor had our remonstrances any effect ;
punishment had been determined on, and it was
certainly administered without wavering. If the
snow was too soft for the purpose, the man’s foot
was often placed as a support for the victim’s
nose. ‘This punishment must be dreadful; the dogs
know perfectly well what is coming the instant their
masters touch them, and tremble in every limb: they
do not attempt to howl loudly, and when released only
make an occasional short yell as they run; the most
stubborn tempers are subdued in this way; no more
trouble will be given im the day’s drive one may be
quite assured ; it is a most summary way of inducing
submission.

Enmillane received the solitary stranger with tokens

oO

194 NATIVE HOSPITALITY.

of great satisfaction, the place of honour by the lamp
and at the board were awarded him, and no means
spared to prove that he was welcome. Being
informed by Belkonta, who was of the party, how
little the ordmary food was to the taste of the
strangers, only preparations of venison were offered,
and I feasted like an alderman. Nothing equalled
the pemmican for flavour or substance; it was
manufactured of the finest fresh meat, boiled and
mixed with hard fat, put imto bladders and allowed
to freeze, in which state it was delicious, and par-
ticularly refreshing in the heated yarangas. By the
way, I cannot understand how the natives can
endure these great extremes of heat and cold; I have
quitted an outward temperature of — 20° to enter
yarangas where the thermometer registered + 100°;
a change of a hundred and twenty degrees in one day
seems almost enough to kill one, but this is expe-
rienced by the 'Tuski pretty well durmg their entire
lives, and they are certamly hardy and _ robust
enough.

On our return the spring had fairly set in, and
the noonday power of the sun softened the surface
of the snow, which speedily froze again, on the
withdrawal of his beams. The face of the country

became one vast sheet of shinmg sparkling white,

A.

SNOW-BLINDNESS. 195

which reflected the sun’s rays and inflicted great
meconvenience, and in some cases much pain in the
eyes. ‘The sensations attending snow-blindness, which
I partially experienced, are as unpleasant as may
well be imagined ; one feels as if numerous pricking
morsels had entered the eyes, the lids wink incessantly,
and streams of water are exuded; this was the
extent of my suffermgs, but in aggravated cases the
inflammation increases, the lids become relaxed,
and the patient loses the power of vision entirely for
a time, and suffers intense pain upon exposure to a
strong light; darkness and cooling lotions, such as
sugar of lead, diluted spirits, and laudanum, are now
essential to relief and recovery ; but I believe that those
who have once been afflicted with this very painful
disorder, can never again expose themselves to the
spring snow for any period without experiencing a
return, and no doubt the eyesight is much weakened
by it. At this time also the dogs’ feet suffer much
from the minute crystals on the hard crust of the
snow; they become very sore, and sometimes bleed.
The natives have in consequence little socks of leather
which tie on the paws, and are a great protection.
The speed with which one travels is however much
increased from the diminution of friction, and when

there is a track the dogs keep along it in a

0 2

196 TRAVELLING CONVIVIALITIES.

continuous trot, requiring very little attention. At such
times the usual watchfulness is relaxed, the sledges
are allowed to run side by side, or the riders seat
themselves sideways on their carriages, and converse
agreeably, or eat a bit of lunch together, combining
their stores, on our part a few pieces of biscuit, and,
as a great favour, a wee taste of ay-ke-misch, on the
other side a store of pemmican, or dried fish,
pounded fine, which is by no means a disagreeable
condiment, having much the flavour of caviare.

A present of homceopathic quantities of sugar
and leaf tobacco to my companion would now put
him in possession of a 1a-lodp, and an immense fund
of good-humour: a fumigation on my part made
me equally content; thus we jogged along tran-
quilly at peace with the world and each other.
Sometimes we struck up a song, alternately or
together, Belkonta, who acted as my guide on
this excursion, and was very intelligent, quickly
following lead, and endeavourmg, with some success,
to repeat the words ; but of all sounds, and I tried
all I knew for experiment, none suited him so well
as German, which he repeated after me with much
facility, and learned several words of a favourite song
of mine. At this season “mirage” displays its

wonders of distortion to a great extent, it produces

NATIVE ATHLETIC GAMES. 197

many curious effects which are often very deceptive.
IT was much diverted by the appearance of some
natives on the summit of a hill about two miles
distant from us; they were much magnified, and
their forms perverted by the haze; ther waddling
gait was increased to a roll which was irresistibly
ludicrous. We halted for a night at Wootair, on
our return, and J was made partaker in amusements
and exercises, some of which were new to me.

Two men seated themselves feet to feet on the
floor of the yarang, and each strove to pull the other
towards him, which was the aim of the struggle.
In another game they contended in a similar manner,
but squatting upon hams and. knees, with their legs
bent under them. In a third trial, a circular band
was passed over the necks of the pair, each of whom,
leaning back, exerted his best endeavours to prove
himself the most headstrong—a complete satire upon
matrimony. Several other kinds of gymnastics were
practised, all callmg for great muscular effort ; the
natives jumped fair distances, but could not equal
us in a jump of height, yet they have a very curious
spring, which we were not at all able to match them
in; this was leaping right off the ground, kicking,
while in the air, a bar or rope frequently breast high.

In the yarangas they slung themselves by one or

198 AMUSEMEN'S.

other limb, and performed some puzzling but not
otherwise difficult contortions.

In all such exercises we always took a part, but
were careful to avoid the slightest approach to anger
or annoyance ; wrestling was the only pastime at all
hazardous in this respect, as our laws were different
to theirs, and the. custom of one side might not be
considered fair on the other, it was therefore rarely
practised. Ever willing to promote amusement, I
introduced many of our own games; some were compre-
hended and fairly imitated. ‘Two rather undignified
feats I was very fond of performing, as a challenge
to my friends, whose invariably unsuccessful attempts
to do likewise never failed to create stifling merri-
ment among the spectators; the first was, standing
on my head, which they did not all understand
how to manage, the other was throwing somersets
backwards from arecumbent posture ; this manceuvre
all were unable to accomplish, from the ill-arranged
balance of their figures, only one person ever
following me, and he was much more expert than I
for a very good reason; the poor fellow had no legs,
or at least only short stumps remaining, so had no
leverage to overcome; the history of his misfortune,
told to me in his presence, showed that even men

so hardy must sometimes succumb to the rigour of

THE CRIPPLE. 199

their climate, and recalled with lively recollection the
period of privation experienced by my companions
and myself on a late occasion, and conjured up
paimful images of the horrible fate we might have
met. On an occasion when it was necessary to drive
the remdeer to a distance inland for pasture, this
man, with another, had performed the task, and
while engaged in tending them, or perhaps on the
return journey, were surrounded by a snow storm,
lost their way, and were two days and_ nights
exposed to the lowest temperature. The end of
this period found his comrade a rigid corpse, and
himself a hopeless cripple, his legs being frozen quite
through nearly to the thighs ; how he reached home
I do not know, nor how he recovered from such a
horrible condition; most probably he was sought
for, or perhaps dragged himself to the nearest hamlet,
and vigour of constitution must have saved him
from sinking under the tedious and trying period
of recovery ; here he was at any rate stumping along
upon the two remnants of legs, each of which had
a broad flattened pad beneath, to serve as a sort
of foot, without which he would sink into the snow.

I do not know any sight more calculated to excite
feelmgs of commiseration and melancholy reflection,

than that of a strong man, full of power and activity,

200 AGE OF NATIVES.

struck down in an instant to a mutilated and helpless
condition : he who before, perhaps, towered above his
fellows, now moves below the smallest, he who was
the ready protector of the weak, now blesses a fragile
woman for assistance. Only blindness equals so
sad a condition—that is helplessness indeed. The
man whose sad story I have just related, was among
the finest of the natives, he had evidently been very
tall, had a handsome, rather intellectual face, and
was still quite young, perhaps not more than thirty.
It was quite impossible to arrive at any conclusion
respecting the ages of these people, or their average
term of existence; the age to which they might
arrive it is of course quite useless to seek, as the
thread is cut short in so reckless a manner, but I
have no doubt that they reach an advanced period
of life, and that a hundred years would not be too
extended a limit to assign them. An old woman
at Wootair had lost every particle of hair, was utterly
blind, nearly toothless, and a very atomy for
emaciation ; this poor old creature, shrivelled and
sightless, must have been very aged, and the only
wonder is that she had been so long permitted to
live, for although we were only made acquainted
with one instance of matricide, the utter apathy with

which the deed was done and the tidmgs communi-

ee ntl

a

CHILDREN’S AMUSEMENTS. 201

cated, proved it to be an event of frequent, mdeed
habitual occurrence. We never heard of any
instance of infanticide, so can make no comment
upon the information received by Wrangell, that all
weakly and deformed children are destroyed ; whether
this is the case or otherwise, I can only remark, that
I never saw the parent’s love for their offspring more
strongly exemplified than here ; the natives absolutely
doat upon their children, particularly in their earlier
years, expend much time, ingenuity, and expense
upon their clothes, ‘and cram them with all sorts of
delicacies ; but it is probable Wrangell’s information
was correct, as I never remember to have seen a
deformity nor children of sickly constitution.

It is very curious to observe how in all lands the
amusements of the children follow in miniature the
occupations of their elders. Few countries are there
where dolls are not a great resource; the Tuski
children have theirs ; make and clothe them with the
minutest attention to details ; every article of dress is
provided, and everything puts on and off in the proper
manner ; the boys have miniature sledges, boats, and
bows and arrows, the girls their dolls, and also
embroidery, which they early begin to practise as a
pastime, and soon become expert in.

I returned to the “ Plover” on the 12th of April,

202 VISIT FROM A BEAR.

and was immediately despatched to survey the maim
branch of the harbour, in the lesser fork of which we
were located ; the tracks of bears, probably the grizzly,
were now becoming numerous, and I cannot but
consider that myself and companion, one of the crew,
had a very narrow escape from death by one of these
animals. As I was about to go on with work at some
distance from the ship, we took, one morning, the
tent and several other articles, tending to remam
out a night or two, but heavy mist and drizzling snow
coming on, I resolved to return that day and resume
on the morrow. Accordingly we dug to some depth
in the snow and buried the tent, and with it, among
other things, a pair of snow-boots, which I had brought
for a change in case of need. Next day on returning
to the spot we found the track of a very large bear
leading to it, and discovered that the brute had
exhumed our buried goods, and finding nothing to its
taste, had bitten my snow-boots all to pieces, through
an inch of cork and wooden pins, which must have
sadly torn its mouth; it had scattered everything
about as if in mischief or rage, and pulled down our
marking staves, which were bitten all to pieces. As
these brutes are very ferocious, particularly when
hungry, I think we were fortunate in our absence, nor

did we after this think it wise to risk a night’s stay

?

THE “PLOVER” AFLOAT. 203

out, and always carried fire-arms. By the time this
task was concluded we had begun to cut out of our
icy prison, a work which fully employed our small
crew for the major part of a month. The distance
from the ship to the edge of the ice was about a
mile and a quarter, and the ice averaged quite five
feet in thickness. This work was continued through
some very severe weather, without other than una-
voidable cessation, and we were heartily glad on the
13th of June to see a clear lane of water reaching to
the long imprisoned “ Plover,” which soon quitted her
“icy cradle” and lay once more free on the bosom of
the wave. This event well nigh concluded our
communications with the Tuski. We anchored near
Woorel and were invaded by an almost unbroken
stream of atwoits, which were crowded with natives,
who came to take a last farewell of the friends so lately
made to be so soon separated. The greater number
of our visitants were women, the men being diligently
engaged in making the most of their brief season of
summer: they came laden with presents, wild-fowl,
which had now arrived in numbers; eggs; boots,
belts, and gloves all finely embroidered, and whatever
else they thought would be appreciated. I have much
satisfaction in recording an instance of grateful feeling

which occurred at this time, a lively proof of the

204 THE DESIRED OF ALL EYES.

existence among this people of the best emotions of
the heart had no other been afforded.

Of all the articles of dress possessed by our friends,
none was more coveted than a pair of breeches made
by Caymgliche for her husband Metra; some one
among us had seen them when on a visit to Wootair,
Caymgliche displaying them with honest pride, and
the encomiums on that occasion inflamed the rest with
a desire to view and to possess these wondrous
inexpressibles, which were indeed very handsome,
being splendidly dressed dogskin, with long glossy
and perfectly jet black hair. ‘hey created quite a
furore, but Caymgliche was deaf to all moderate or
even good offers, and placed a prohibitory price
upon them, notwithstanding which hopes were still
entertained of their beg yielded at a lower price
by and by.

During one of the many visits I made to Wootair,
Caymgliche was suffering greatly from violent headache
and low fever, which, as there was no one present better
qualified, I endeavoured to relieve; bandaged her
head with handkerchiefs dipped in cooling lotions,
prepared some savoury broth, and in fact did a good
deal in the nursing way, which would have made me
a subject for mirth among my companions, and I dare

say with many of my fair readers too. The laugh

os
CAYMGLICHE THE GRATEFUL. 205

may pass, | was rewarded by seeing my _ patient
convalescent and very thankful for my little care, and
returning to the ship I soon lost sight of the
occurrence. Not so Caymgliche, her gratitude had
remained in full force, and with a delicacy of sentiment
one would hardly suppose to exist in a mind so untu-
tored, she determined to display, by an unmistakeable
token, her recognition of my slight service ; accord-
ingly, when with Yaneenga and others she came on
board on the last visit, I was surprised that in addition
to the offermgs of my friend Mooldooyah’s wife,
Caymgliche also had her tribute to bestow, and among
the treasures of her donation were the much coveted
name-them-nots. ‘This was an enigma. I could not
for an instant suppose that Caymgliche, who with her
husband had the character of “screws,” could mean
otherwise than “ tok,” and quickly asked her price, but
the poor creature with eagerness and delight made me
understand that my acceptance was all she desired, and
with Yaneenga explained the reason for her conduct.
Caymgliche had I trust no reason to repent her
generous determination. I turn from this act which
calls for so much admiration to one which was equally
culpable as the other was praiseworthy, and which I,
for my shame is now to be recorded, have never,

ridiculous as it may seem, ceased to regret. No

206 THE BROKEN PROMISE.

articles in our possession were more coveted than
combs, and as we had only a supply for our own use,
the natives were not very successful in the fulfillment
of their desires on this head. My faithful friend
Yaneenga, who had ever striven with such exemplary
attention to provide me with whatever she thought
would be prized, begged but for one token, which would
be alike valuable for use and as a memorial: this
desired object was a comb, but as I only possessed
one, and in the peculiar circumstances of our sojourn
dared not risk its deprivation, I promised to give her
one moiety thereof, retaining the other. With blame-
able negligence I omitted to do this until too late;
occupied with many duties I did not notice the
departure of the boats, and I fear Yaneenga upbraids
to this day the ungrateful stranger who could be so
unmindful of her parting wish as to neglect to give her
what, to him a trifle, was to her so ardently coveted a
treasure ; if ever I see her again, or can send, she
shall have a gross.

I have now little more to say of the Tuski, we had
only trifling further communication with them in our
passage up Behring’s Straits, and a brief summary
will conclude your acquaintance with them. We
sailed from Emma’s Harbour at the end of June, and

proceeded up Behring’s Straits, anchoring several

FAREWELL TO THE TUSKI. 207

times near the Asiatic shore, on which occasions
parties of our friends visited the ship. The last point
of contact was the Bay of St. Laurence, on whose
shore stands Noonahmone, and near which Ahmoleen,
of Yandangah, resided ; he soon came on board, and
kindly supphed us with several remdeer for fresh
provision. Preparations were made at this time to
despatch boats to the coast of America, to proceed
along it to the eastward, as light winds created fears
of the delay of the ship, but a fair breeze springing
up, the order for their departure was countermanded,
and bidding farewell to Asia, and the people among
whom we had so long tarried, we steered for Kotzebue
Sound, on the American coast, and anchored near
Chamisso Island on the 14th of July; much ice,
several American whalers, and multitudes of whales,
seals, walrus, and wild-fowl, having been seen on the
passage from our wintering-place.

We had now taken leave of a race whose
character and attributes, as they were presented to
our view, I cannot on the whole regard in other than a
favourable hight. Previous slight acquaintance has
represented them as fierce, warlike, and intractable ;
there is undoubtedly a spirit of independence, united
with indomitable courage, which would lead them,

as reported of their conduct when invaded, to resist

208 CHARACTER OF NATIVES.

all endeavours at subjugation with constancy and
firmness ; but of this, we whose intentions and rela-
tions were avowedly and undeviatingly pacific, had
no active proof. My experiences lead me _ to
characterise them as phlegmatic, deliberate in speech
and action; naturally indolent, perhaps, but obliged
by the scanty resources of their land to bestir them-
selves in providing subsistence and the very few
comforts they possess ; worthy of confidence, although
shrewd at a bargain, and in occasional instances
displaying a pilfermg tendency ; (which, however, I
believe was exercised only upon the property of the
stranger) and even this some I am sure scorned to
participate in; hospitable in the extreme, and
exceedingly fond. of company. Of the structure of
their religion I know very little. Magic and evil
spirits are certainly constituents ; how far the former
is extended I am ignorant, as also whether they
worship or simply deprecate the displeasure of
the latter in their ceremonies. I have no means of
judging of their belief m a benign spirit, but meline
to the view that the sun is importantly connected
with their notions, and that they assign to each of
the elements, and even perhaps the different winds
and other natural objects, a controlling and dispensing

spirit.

AMOR PATRIA. 209

Of their social condition my narrative offers nearly
a sufficient picture; they are in a measure socialists,
and divided into distinct small brotherhoods of a
very peculiar nature, from which, as I understand,
their designation of Tuski is derived. They afford
an additional proof of the love of home alike in
people of savage as luxurious climes ; questions as
to whether they would leave their country and go
with us to see new wonders, and obtain riches in
profusion, elicited, notwithstanding the dazzling
prospect, only decided refusal.

As regards matrimony, it may briefly be remarked,
that polygamy is a matter of choice, and repudiation
a recognised, although not a frequent, practice.
Betrothals take place at an early age, and often
without regard to equality of the pair in that respect ;
a dowry is certainly bestowed with the wife. In
the arts and sciences their advance has necessarily
been hmited, but ingenuity, patience, and skill, are
displayed in no common degree in all their perform-
ances. Boats, sledges, dresses, implements, and toys,
all bear the stamp of careful and suitable adaptation
to their several uses.

Regarding their trade and commerce, the system
is entirely one of “tok,” or barter: they communicate
with the Russians at Kolyma, and on the Anadyr,

5

210 NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF TUSKI-LAND.

and indirectly with the Esquimaux of America, by
the people of the Diomede Islands, in the straits.
There is also some slight communication with the
island of St. Lawrence, but enmity exists between its
natives and themselves, and more than one proof was
afforded that they reduced to bondage any of
those people who, on fishing or other excursions,
were driven upon their coast; a sufficiently ungene-
rous proceeding, and one at variance with their
general hospitality, but practised probably by way of
reprisal.

I have already remarked upon the scantiness of
vegetation, from which they have but slight aid
except in the subsistence of their reindeer, besides
some few roots and a long dry grass, which they plait
into hats and baskets of close texture, nearly
impervious to water. The only wild animals with
which we were acquainted, were bears, wolves, foxes,
sable, otters, ermine, hares, the big horn or great
sheep of Siberia, and perhaps reindeer; the tame ones
were reindeer and dogs; the latter are generally
small and shaggy, their bark, or rather yell, is most
melancholy, and when a number join in chorus, the
wail, particularly at night, is startling, and almost
unearthly.

In concluding this portion of my book, I beg to

PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR. 211

present to my readers a specimen of Tuski drawing,
being in fact my LIKENESS, drawn by Enoch, the

Canny lad. Like most portraits, it is too flattering.

MY PORTRAIT.

Pa bolt,

BOAT EXPEDITION.

f ties
CHAPTER XIV.

Arrive in Kotzebue Sound.—Mosquitos.— First view of Esquimaux.—
Joined by “Herald” and “ Nancy Dawson.’—Midnight Sun.—Start on
a Boat expedition.—Visit of Esquimaux.—Moor to Ice Hummock.—
Esquimaux Music and Dancing.—Threatening attitude of Natives.—
Burying Ground.—Anchor at Point Barrow.—Language of Signs.
— Magnetic Observations. — Description of Natives. — Concert. —
Oomiak.—Bury Intelligence.—Whalebone Henge.—Part from “ Nancy
Dawson.”—Mr. Shedden.

Tue effort to despatch the party for search along
the coast, was repeated the morning after reaching
Kotzebue Sound. Lieutenant Lee, with myself and
crews in pinnace and gig, started at an early hour
on the 15th (July), and we had nearly lost sight of
the parent “Plover,” when a glimpse of H. M. S.
‘Herald,’ and guns from our own vessel, calling us
to return, the resumption of the trip was delayed for
a time. The “Herald” had been despatched to
replenish our supplies, and otherwise aid in forwarding

the objects of our mission; and both ships’ crews

.
FIRST VIEW OF ESQUIMAUX. 213

were therefore immediately set to work to transfer
stores and provisions. Lieutenant Pullen, who held
the original appomtment to the “ Plover,” and had
now arrived in the “ Herald,” exchanged places with
_ Lieutenant Lee, the latter officer going into the
“Herald” to join his own ship, the “ Asia.”

Observations were taken on Chamisso Island, those
engaged suffermg much from the attacks of mus-
quitos of elephantine proportions. <A cask of flour
which Captain Beechy, of H. M. S. “Blossom,’’ buried
in 1826, was exhumed, and found to be very little
deteriorated. :

Our first view of Esquimaux was obtained here ;
between twenty and thirty men in two baidars (the
term now generally used for this species of boat),
visiting us on several occasions; they were quite
friendly, though at first rather shy. I believe
Lieutenant Cooper and others of the “Herald” remem-
bered some of them, and were recognised with delight
im their turn, having met them when the “ Herald”
sought the “Plover”’ here at this time last year. They
stole nothing, but I am not charitable enough to
acquit them of the desire to do so; subsequent expe-
rience forbids so favourable a construction of their
intentions.

On the 18th, the “Herald”’ and “Plover” weighed

214 THE MIDNIGHT SUN:

at.an early hour, and ran out of the anchorage ; they
were shortly joined by the yacht “ Nancy Dawson,”
owned and commanded by a noble-hearted man,
named Shedden, of whom I shall presently have
occasion to speak, m language, alas! of mourning
as well as of admiration. The three vessels pro-
ceeded in company to the northward, along the
American shore, until the 25th, when the anchors
were dropped off Wainwright Inlet, which it was
hoped might be found suitable for the “ Plover” to
winter in. Only two incidents occurrmg on our
passage hither, will find record in my pages ; a view
of the midnight sun, which, when seen for the first
time, cannot fail to excite new emotions and reflec-
tions in the observant mind; and the profusion of
life in the waters through which we passed ; a mid-
night watch m a nearly calm night made me a
sharer with subdued enjoyment in a scene strange as
imposing. Whales near and afar throwing up
mighty volumes of water, with a noise like the sobs
of a huge steam-engine ; walruses and seals innumer-
able, the former growling and grunting in a peculiar
manner, the latter barking much like dogs; eider

and other ducks almost in myriads, rismg on our

12
rw)
approach im clouds from the sea. All this was new

and impressive enough.

START ON BOAT EXPEDITION. Pa

The two commanders, Kellett and Moore, had
resolved to make this the startmg point for the oft-
tried expedition along the coast, and busy preparations
were immediately instituted to that end.

Another pen than mime must record the events in
the remainder of the “ Plover’s”’ flight; I have to tell
of the doings of her bantlings, from which she now
separated, and of which enough of interest and
adventure may be related.

Four boats were selected for the contemplated
service: two of these were large, and capable of
contaiming much provision and stores, and affording
great comfort and protection to their crews; but
with these I shall have little to do. The other two
were whale boats, twenty-seven feet in length and
nearly five in breadth, open from bow to backboard,
providing therefore no shelter from the weather.
‘Twenty-five persons were comprised in the crews of
all these boats, Lieutenant Pullen having command,
supported by Mr. Martin and myself. As much
provisions as could be carried were stowed away,
amounting to more than seventy days’ allowance for
the whole party, besides twenty cases of pemmican,
to be buried along the coast, as depots for any parties
of the missing voyagers who might chance upon these

shores.

\

216 - -WALRUS.—WILD FOWL.

At nearly midnight, three hearty cheers from the
crews of the vessels, who manned the riggings to
see us away, sounded farewell to our little band.
We returned. their shouts with energy, and thus,
amid waving hands and re-echoing adieus, we pro-
ceeded on our mission. ‘The vessels weighed also,
and accompanied us for awhile, but a dense fog
gathering around, soon hid them from our view, and
we were fairly alone to rely upon ourselves. Few
points of interest were presented during the first
two or three days; walrus were plentiful, dams with
a single young one, never more, the old ladies looking
grave and sedate as a matron need, the juveniles
frolicking about them as only young things can,
while here and there an old bull reared his massive
but unsightly head, garnished by a pair of tusks of
threatening dimensions.

The midnight sun on the 26th glowed lke a_ ball
of fire through the haze, and promised little for
genial warmth on his rising, and large flocks of wild
fowl, principally geese, passed us from time to time,
generally going seaward. Early in the morning of
the 29th, we observed, on a point near Cape Smythe,
seven Hsquimaux tents of seal-skin; the inmates
were not observable, and we thought them probably

asleep or unconscious of our vicinity : not so, however ;

VISIT OF ESQUIMAUX. 217

before we had proceeded half a mile they crowded
the beach, quickly launched their boats, followed and
came up with us. ‘They were very anxious to barter,
and delighted to exchange arrows, boots of seal-skin,
ornaments of ivory, &c., for scraps of tobacco or a
few beads ; but they coveted more than all else, any
thing of iron, gazing upon it with longing eyes, and
we detected an old man endeavouring to appropriate
one of the chain-plates of the larger boat (which, for
the information of my non-nautical friends, is a heavy
piece of iron bolted to the side of the vessel, to secure
the shrouds); he seemed much astonished that it
resisted his efforts.

While running hitherward, we had espied a vessel
standing in for the land, and speedily recognised the
“Nancy Dawson.” We went on in company with her
until the afternoon, making, however, but slow pro-
gress, as the ice lay thickly in our path, and the boats
were finally secured to a heavy hummock of ice
which lay aground, and afforded good shelter, the
yacht anchoring a little below us. Mr. Shedden had
been some distance along the ice-barrier, but found
no break nor opening of any kind, so soon returned.

It blew strongly next day, and the wind bemg
contrary, detamed us in our position, which was not

far from Point Barrow. We were fortunate in

218 MOOR TO ICE-HUMMOCK.

possessing so good shelter, for the sea was covered
with drifting ice, mostly heavy, and having some
dangerous hummocks amongst it: and the small berg
to which we were secured, had to withstand continual
pressure and heavy shocks from the wind and current-
driven masses.

The ‘“ Nancy’s”’ position was less enviable than
ours ; she was anchored in the full force of the stream,
and we more than once feared for her safety, par-
ticularly on one occasion, when a small field of ice
getting athwart her hawse, threatened to break her
from her anchors. Eventually she was warped up to
the same shelter as ourselves, and then lay snug
enough. From the condition and appearance of the
ice, Mr. Pullen came to the conclusion that it would
probably be necessary to proceed with the smaller
boats only ; these were, therefore, loaded with seventy
days provisions for fourteen persons, in readiness for a
favourable opportunity. Our friendly shelter proved
treacherous at last; perhaps we taxed its powers too

>

far by the addition of the “ Nancy:” it broke fairly
in halves, one part remaming aground, the other
floating off with us. We had, therefore, to get in
shore as quickly as possible, where such another small
berg afforded protection, and we remained here until the

evening, when the weather began to moderate, and the

TIMEO DANAOS. 219

~

boats pushed on once more. Passing close to the
shore, we attracted the notice of about fifty Esquimaux,
to whom belonged four tents near ; these shouted to
us as we ran by, waving their arms and dancing to a
drum in a way which forcibly recalled the imitation of
their manners by certain among the Tuski, and I saw
that no acting could be truer; they accompanied us
along the banks for a considerable distance, but did
not come off in their boats.

We now began to find the channel much obstructed
by ice, and on reaching the southern part of a long
narrow promontory, whose northern extreme is Point
Barrow, found our progress checked by a large floe,
which disputed the right of way and constrained us
to tarry a while. The boats were secured to the
shore-ice, and our men lay down to sleep. ‘Two or
three Esquimaux quickly gathered near with bows in
readiness for defence, we also kept our arms at hand,
though concealed, and the visitors seeing that no evil
was intended discontinued further preparation or
precaution, and came without hesitation to receive
trifling presents or to barter their furs.

Little was done on the Ist of August, short
distances were accomplished with difficulty, sometimes
by sailing, at others tracking or towing, in which the

Esquimaux readily assisted us, and often we had to

220 THE LAND-FLOE.

get out upon the ice and force the boats through in
various ways, but all was of little use; we got over
perhaps three miles by these means, but at last came
to the land-floe, which had never moved, and through
which, in its present state, there was no hope of
passing. It was, however, very much honeycombed,
and a great deal of water from the melted snow lay
upon it, which gave us good prospects of its speedy
disruption. We again secured to the shore, and were
visited by the people of twelve tents, which were on
the bank a quarter of a mile distant ; great numbers
assembled around us, noisy and wondermg enough,
but quite pacific; their visit was returned by an
ispection of their tents, which gave them great
delight ; dancmg and drumming were practised as
usual, and they were made quite happy by the dis-
tribution of presents, the scene ending with a scramble,
which was highly diverting. ‘Towards night the floe
began to break up and drift away; the channel, to
our joy, clearmg fast.

The booming of a distant cannon announcing the
approach of a vessel from the southward, Mr. Pullen
started to meet her, and soon after we saw the spars
of the ‘ Nancy”’ peeping over the southern point.

During the absence of our commander I went on

shore to examine the sea to the eastward. In Elson

NATIVE BURYING-GROUND. DOI

Bay there was much pack, an occasional piece of
sailing ice might be seen, as also the barrier to seaward,
but otherwise all was free. Several small inlets were
visible along the pot, and one or two lagoons. In
my walk I came upon a sort of burying-ground ;
numerous heaps and sods of earth lay about with a
stick or two placed in them. I counted six human
skulls upon them, but saw no other bones, and from
the smallness of the mounds and undisturbed appear-
ance of the surrounding soil, conjectured that the
corpses had been buried in an upright position, with
their heads at or above the surface. The Esquimaux
did not offer me the slightest molestation, and after
gathering a few plants and flowers, and picking up a
piece of coal, which was probably sea-borne from Cape
Beaufort, where it exists in plenty, I returned to the
boats.

At four on the morning of the 2nd, Mr. Pullen
came on board accompanied by Mr. Shedden, whose
vessel had become surrounded by the pack. ‘The
channel had cleared for us beautifully, the wind was
alike favourable, having veered to the southward, and
we were therefore happy enough to hurry on to the
northern extreme of Point Barrow, which is also the
northernmost point of America. Here we anchored

for examiation and observation, and Mr. Pullen and

Q22 LANGUAGE OF SIGNS.

myself started in search of any marks which might
have been left by the “ Blossom’s” boat. We pulled
to the southward, and landed to examine a large post,
which we had before observed. It was, however, only
a piece of driftwood, set up by the natives, many
similar to it being about, generally upright. These,
as I understood from the Esquimaux, were used as
land-marks for their fishing boats. I believe, indeed,
that the ‘“ Blossom’s” boat did not land here, nor
leave any mark of their visit. There was certainly
none such to be seen. We carefully examined every
suspicious object, and dug under several of the posts
to a considerable depth.

Our interpreter did not understand the tribe, and
again recourse was had to the universal language of
signs. We made a rude model of a vessel, and
performed sundry antics to signify what we were in
search of, but could elicit no mformation, and so set
to work at obtaining observations. We concluded that
these people must have been entirely misunderstood.
Far from evidencing any disposition to assail or molest
us, they were most docile and well-behaved, agreeably
disappointing us in their conduct. When we arrived
on the hillock, all, big and little, sat down around us,
and I amused myself by filling their pipes, becoming

a great favourite immediately in consequence.

MAGNETIC OBSERVATIONS. 223

They had among them a great many knives, which
we feared would influence the magnet, Mr. Pullen
therefore kindly drew the crowd off to a distance,
distributing among them tobacco, beads, snuff, &c. :
and much to their credit be it said, there was neither
confusion nor contention, each taking his allotted
portion, and seeming delighted with his good fortune.
They took care not to come near the imstruments,
finding that we did not like their approach ; one or
two indeed came towards us, but retired instantly
when laughingly motioned back, and this should be
considered as a display of great forbearance, inasmuch
as their curiosity must have been highly excited.
When the observations were concluded they were
allowed to inspect the objects of their wonder; then
fast and thickly to utterance flew their expressions of
astonishment at the—to them—novel and splendid
instruments. The trough of quicksilver, liquid and
restless, especially attracted them, pleasure and wonder
were evident at the simple view, but when one or two
had permission to take some from the dish, and found
it ever elude the grasp, their astonishment knew no
bounds. |

The men generally were taller than the average of
Europeans, strongly built and well formed: some had

well-marked features, but all expression was completely

224 DESCRIPTION OF NATIVES.

destroyed by those odious labrets, of which some wore
but one, others one on each side of the mouth ; they
were of beads or stone, and it is incomprehensible how
these people can consent to make unsightly gashes im
their faces for such a purpose. I estimate them to be
of great strength and activity, indeed of the latter
sufficient proof was afforded. The women were
generally short, the visages of the younger ones
tolerably good, but truth compels me to add, that the
very reverse was the case with the dames of more
advanced age. heir figures inclined to the squat,
their mien and expression promised intelligence and
good nature. Although both sexes had in most
instances the round flat face of the Mongolian cast, a
few individuals possessed well-defined, though petite
features, and all had fine eyes. The women, unlike
our lady friends on the Asiatic coast, wore closely
fitting breeches of sealskin, and as these always looked
old and worn, I have little doubt that they were the
castings of their husbands’ wardrobes; their figures
were, therefore, not displayed to advantage, particularly
as they turned in their toes and walked with a waddle.
All were horribly filthy in person and habits; a
perceptible odour of train-oil pervaded the assembly,
and effectually banished on our side any lingering

penchant for their caresses, which were however freely

TOILET OF THE NATIVES. 225

tendered, particularly the nose-rubbing _ salutation
which we had some difficulty to avoid without offending.
The men only appear to wear the labret, and where a
single one is borne it is generally on the left side of
the mouth. I observed some men with bare crowns
in priestly fashion, but the major part left the hair
untouched: the reason for the practice of clipping
may be better guessed than alluded to. I saw no
tattooed marks on the men: in the women all discernible
were lines, generally in pairs, drawn from the lower
lip to the chin ; they were of a dark hue and deeply
punctured; indeed, in some instances the flesh had risen
up in ridges. The women’s hair was-cut in front
level with the eyebrows ; behind, it grew long, and was
gathered into two “rat tails,’ such as young ladies
sometimes wear in England, but bemg very thick and
bound tightly round with strips of stiff hide, they
stuck out on each side like small cable ends, which
indeed they much resembled. Having concluded the
observations, and erected a pole on the spot where they
were taken, we went off to the boats to dine. The
-Esquimaux assembled on the beach opposite to us,
and commenced a festival concert, singing, dancing,
and gesticulating, to the sound of two large native
drums or tambourines, very like those of the Tuski;

the burthen of their song was ever—Hi, Yangah

Q

226 WE BURY INTELLIGENCE.

yangah; ha ha, yangah: with variety only in the
inflection of voice.

We purchased an oomiak—woman’s, or family boat
—made of two walrus skins, sewn together, and
stretched tightly over a light wooden frame: with
paddles complete its price was a large butcher’s
knife, a looking-glass, and a quantity of tobacco and
beads. She differed much in shape from those of the
Tuski, which are little wider at top than bottom ; this
one measured seventeen inches at the greatest breadth
of floor, and forty-three where widest between the
gunwales ; a species of keel was formed by carrying
the woodwork to an edge below. Workmanship was
displayed in the manufacture of her frame which
would not have disgraced a skilful carpenter ; it was
particularly neat and well fitted, which made it much
stronger than its lightness would lead one to suppose.

In the afternoon we went on shore to bury an

-account of our past and intended future proceedings ;
these were placed near the pole, which was about-
twenty feet long, with a cross-piece near the top, on
which was inscribed—

PLOVER'S BOATS.

AUGUST 2, 1849.
INTELLIGENCE, 10 FEET, N.E.

Mr. Shedden surprised us at this time by appearing

NATIVE WINTER DWELLINGS. 227

on the hill near, wishing to take a last look of us, and
learn if we wanted any further assistance ; for these
purposes he had walked a considerable distance from
his vessel, which was still icelocked. In the evening
I went on shore to obtain some rope of seal or walrus
hide, which I knew would be valuable for towing the
boats. I was perfectly unarmed, and had some distance
to walk to the village, but met only with the most
friendly demonstrations. I took a good visual survey
of the place, which appeared to be a considerable and
important settlement. The winter dwellings were
about thirty in number, and apparently partly made
by excavation in the soil, some ‘square or oblong in
shape with flattish roofs, others round and arched ;
they averaged about five feet from the ground. I could
not help thinking that these must be what Simpson in
his narrative mistook for ‘‘ numerous mounds of earth,
forced up by the pressure of the ice, which look, at a
distance, like gigantic boulders.” They have much
of that appearance, and I coincided with his belief,
until I had a tolerably near mspection, which made
me pretty confident that such mounds do not exist,
and these dwellings seem too far distant from the sea to
be in danger from ice. The summer tents were about
as numerous as the huts, and pitched near and about

them either singly or in small clusters; they were

Q 2

228 WHALE-RIBS ON POINT BARROW.

of seal-skin, sewn together, with the hair outwards,
bell-shaped, and supported by poles. One, which I
entered, was entirely destitute of any kind of furni-
ture; its inmates sat on the loose earth, but had of
course skins to sleep on.

The most remarkable pecuharity of Pomt Barrow
is the numerous poles and ribs of whales which are
erected on it, about the settlement. I tried to
count them, but became utterly confused in_ the
calculation before reaching a tithe of the number.
I should think there must be upwards of a thousand.
Some were placed so as to form a sort of scaffold,
others in rows, and a few isolated; their use was
evident, although I fancied there were infinitely
more than required. On those arranged together
were placed oomiaks and kiaks (the latter very like
our “funnies,” or wager boats, but of hide, and
covered all over with a hooped aperture for the single
occupant), skins, dresses, entrails of whales and
seals, &c., and between the solitary ribs were stretched
quantities of hide rope in different stages of curing,
I imagined that each member of the community had
his own private lot or manufactory, for on signifying
my desire to become a purchaser, | was seized by
one of the merchants and conducted right through

the village to its outskirts, where his property and

ESQUIMAUX MASK. 229

winter dwelling were situated, his summer tent being
more centrally deposited.

‘The soil is peaty and boggy in some parts, marshy
in others, and all was now saturated with moisture ;
the beach was shelving, composed of sand and shingle;
few shells were to be found, and those all scraps and
fragments.

In addition to the hide rope, I purchased a wooden
mask, which was a ludicrous imitation of the
“human face divine,’ in the Esquimaux variety.
During the day we had bartered for many other
curious trifles, skin dresses of all kinds, from the
nicely trimmed frock of fawn to less invitmg breeks
of seal-skin, labrets and other ornaments, bones and
such like of walrus ivory.

At nearly midnight on the 3rd, our kind friend
Shedden bade us adieu, as we started from Point
Barrow. We gave him three hearty cheers, and
parted with feelings of regret, which would have been
much increased had we known that this was our last
farewell. This generous man, who with noble self-
disregard had adventured thus far into these dreary
regions to seek the gallant Franklin and his band,
with no other hope of reward than the approval of
his own conscience, and who, finding that he could

not expect to proceed much further, placed all his

230 FATE OF SHEDDEN.

means at our disposal, for, as he told me, “ he would
take his mainmast out if it would do us any good ;”
this noble fellow, after striving for awhile longer
amid great difficulties, perished before he could
return to his native land. We mourn for thee, gallant

Shedden, as men should mourn for a true patriot !

=

CHAPTER XV.

Take to Whale-boats and Oomiak.—Return of Mr. Martin and larger Boats
to the Ship.—Dog Sledges.—Smith’s Bay.—Heavy Sea.—Run for
Shore.—Repair Damages—Birds in numbers.—Colville Shoals.—
Critical position.—Throw over Provisions.—Point Berens.—Amber.—
Shovel Jack.—Attitude of Natives.—Mirage.—Jones’s Islands.— Esqui-
maux Chief fires a Musket.—Native Boats crowd us.—Point Beechey.
—Visited by Esquimaux.—Prudential Preparations.—Shovel Jack
again.—Treacherous demonstrations.—Re-embark.—Natives follow.
—Return Reef.—Fire with Ball.—Construct Stockade. — Marine
charges with Bayonet.—Close of the three days’ demonstrations.—
Natives depart.—Breakfast on the Ice.—Natives reappear.—Discharge
their Arrows.—Reasons for forbearance.

We ran on until the afternoon of the 3rd, when
we stopped near Fatigue Point, im latitude 71° 6’ N.,
longitude 254° 31’ W., and made preparations to
divide the party, Mr. Pullen having definitively
concluded to proceed with the whale boats and
oomiak, and send the two large ones back. He
named one of our little craft “ Louisa; I had the
much esteemed privilege of bestowing on the other
the title of “ Logan,” and the skin canoe was aptly
christened “ Supply.” She relieved the other boats

much, stowmg a large quantity both in weight and

232 BOAT EXPEDITION.

bulk, twenty cases of pemmican, eight hundred pounds
of biscuit, a quantity of preserved meats, and other
miscellaneous matters, the whole amounting to
upwards of half a ton weight, with which her gun-
wales were still eight imches above the water.
Twelve men were selected to accompany Mr. Pullen
and myself, and it may well be imagined that four-
teen men with their arms, baggage—the latter need
not be too highly estimated—instruments, and
provisions for nearly a hundred days, were not a
light lading for our tiny vessels; we were indeed
very “deep,” but consoled ourselves with the
reflection that each day would diminish the weight.
At midnight of the 4th, the word to depart was
given, the chosen party bade farewell to their less
fortunate comrades, and our adieux were made with
-mutual regret. My dear friend Mr. Martin we
particularly sympathised with; he had so much
hoped to have pushed on, and was greatly chagrined
at the disappomtment. As we ran along the shore,
great quantities of drift-wood were observable, and
on a pomt above high-water mark were several
clumsy dog-sledges of the Esquimaux, some perfect,
others much injured ; they had apparently been left
there by travelling parties in the spring, when the

snow had become too soft to employ them, and

THE ‘SUPPLY’ IN DANGER. 233

would probably be reclaimed for next winter’s use.
A rough hut of drift wood had also been thrown up
near.

Getting into Smith’s Bay, we found the water very
shallow, and the beach muddy; and after tracking
for a time with difficulty, started to go right across
the bay. The banks here were of solid ice, ten or
fifteen feet high, with a crust of decayed vegetable
matter, changed below into fine black mould. We
had not gone far in our run, when the wind,
previously strong, increased greatly ; the sea became
boisterous, and our boats shipped much water ; the
“Supply,” im particular, bemg within an ace of
sinking. Part of her ladmg was transferred to the
other boats; but they could ill bear the additional
weight; and to prevent more disastrous conse-
quences, we were obliged to run for the shore,
landing im a horrid mixture of black stuff, mto which
we sunk to the knees, the surf breaking over the
boats. With much labour they were cleared of
their contents, and hauled up, but not before every-
thing, including ourselves, was well drenched.
Particularly cold and miserable we were; for, i the
first place, there was great difficulty m pitching the
tents, as the pegs, when through the spongy surface,

which was not more than four or five inches deep,

2540 EXPEDIENTS IN A PREDICAMENT.

refused to enter the icy foundation ; next, the fire-
wood being wet and rotten, would not be persuaded
to burn for a long time; and lastly, our very scanty
wardrobes being as well soaked as the clothes we had
on, required a little draining before we could enjoy
the luxury of a change. Next day all our attention
was required in repairmg, as far as possible, the
evils of the preceding. Nearly all our biscuit was in
a pap-like state of saturation, and we constructed a
rude oven with anchors, rods, and plates of tin from
the preserved potato-cases, i which to dry it; but
this expedient was only very partially successful; the
effects of the salt water were not easily removed ;
and our bakery, it must be confessed, was not of the
most artistic description. Our camp presented a
strange spectacle: the tents all askew, near them
a large pile of rotten wood, intended for a fire, but
boasting more of pungent smoke; on one side the
primitive oven; around, preserved meat-tins, piled
like shot; casks, oars, masts, and other gear; and
suspended upon lines, dripping habiliments waved in
the breeze. Crowning all, were the fantastic garbs
of the party ; some had donned Esquimaux frocks,
breeches or caps; the rest of their dress being of
a more civilised cast ; others, with some misappro-

priated garment thrown loosely over them, were

MULTITUDES OF BIRDS. 235

awaiting, in patience, until the sulky fire should dry
their clothes ; and one or two, of an ingenious fw7z,
assumed the position of a roast, revolving slowly
before the logs; they certainly got well smoked, if
heat were wanting. We could not afford to spend
more time in repairing our losses, and resumed the
voyage on the 7th, at noon. ‘There was a good deal
of “ sailing’’ ice in our course, and we got one or
two hard rubs in consequence. Ice which has much
wasted is very deceptive; long tongues run out
under the water, and are dangerous, because unseen.
Near Pomt Pitt avere seven Hsquimaux tents, and
we landed, to communicate with the inmates, but
gained no intelligence: they could hardly have ever
seen whites before, as more than common astonish-
ment was displayed at sight of us. We obtained
some fish from them, and experienced great annoy-
ance from the oft-repeated salutation of nose-
rubbing, which made us glad enough to depart.
The shores here were low, the ground chiefly flat
and swampy. Ducks, geese, and gulls, were
observed in great numbers, and multitudes of small
birds kept up a continual twitter. Landing to
examine a very small sandy island near Point
kllice, we were jomed by two oomiaks, and recog-

mised in their crews some of the persons we had

BSG... BOATS AGROUND.

lately left. HEndeavours were made to purchase one

of their boats, but without success. Near Point

Cameron, where we encamped at night, thousands
of loons and diving-ducks were assembled, but were
very shy; and an enormous white owl, which I
endeavoured to get a shot at, was far too wary for my
success. ‘The best way to catch these birds is to
trail some small object like a mouse at a long distance
behind by a strmg. Landing on Cape Halkett on
the morning of the 9th, it was resolved, as the day
was calm, to push for the opposite point of Harrison’s
Bay, and we started accordingly. We had much
difficulty in threading our way through the floating
and grounded ice, but were assisted in our advance
by a strong easterly current. Late im the afternoon
a breeze came up from the south-west, to which we
hoisted sail. Wind and sea gradually increased to
violence ; the boats grounded on shoals at the mouth
of the Colville River, and were with difficulty got
ito deeper water, where their condition was equally
unfortunate: the poor little craft were in great
danger of swamping, being too deeply laden to rise
with sufficient buoyancy to the waves. Much water
was shipped, particularly by the “Supply,” which bemg
in tow embarrassed us considerably. Our situation

became critical, and the boats were of necessity

eee we

SACRIFICE OF PROVISIONS. pes

lightened by throwing overboard some of the pro-
visions; this relieved them; and the beach near
Point Berens was reached with great satisfaction soon
after, when the work of clearing the boats had to be
repeated, everything being again quite saturated.
The “Supply”? was much injured, and we had
thrown overboard about three hundred pounds of
biscuit, and nearly two hundred pounds of preserved
potatoes, all of which had been wetted on the
former occasion; a ten gallon cask of water had
also been sacrificed. Walking along the beach, I
picked up a piece of amber, which, although very
small, was treasured as a curiosity from being found
here. On the 11th, having somewhat refitted, we
pulled up to Point Berens, on which were thirteen
tents, containing, as I calculated, about one hundred
persons in all. Pemmican was to be deposited
here, and a pole with four arms, which our car-
penter had already prepared, was erected. To conceal
our doings, a visit was made to the tents, which lay
at a distance; and the attention of the natives bemg
thus diverted, three cases and a bottle of imtelligence
were buried, we hoped, without observation, and fires
made at different places around, to mislead as to the
position of the depot. Our arrangements concluded,

we were preparing to depart, when the shovel was

238 DETERMINED MEASURES.

missed ; a native gentleman had cleverly shuffled it in
an instant under the sand with his feet ; and had he not
been by chance observed, would undoubtedly have
appropriated it as a waif. We could not spare the
implement, so dislodged the thief from his position
over it, and recovered the article; but our friend was
not satisfied with his deprivation, and seized the
prow of the boat to prevent our departure, while his
companions seemed much inclined to make a rush
upon us. One must be ever watchful and prompt in
communication with uncivilised people: a couple of
guns were levelled at the man in an instant, and their
aspect quickly changed his views; he let go of the
boat and retreated hastily. We hoisted sail and ran
along shore, until a mark was observed, which we
landed to examine, and while so engaged, were
visited by an oomiak, containing twenty-four men,
and only one woman. As they came from Point
Berens we distrusted their honesty, and a line was
therefore drawn on the sand between the parties, as
a Rubicon to each.

A curious instance of the deceptive effect of mirage
occurred to-day : we thought we saw a small vessel
or boat running in for the land, and chased it for a
time, but after all, found it to be only a mass of ice,

and continued our way with considerable vexation.

A GREAT ACHIEVEMENT. 239

The oomiak followed us for some time at a distance,
but we lost sight of it before landing on the eastern-
most of Jones’s Islands, where we supped, and the
men lay down for a time, as we intended to proceed
during the night. <A party of natives visited us here ;
they seemed very friendly, and pleased to see us.
Among them was a tall, spare man, who, by his
usurping the principal share in the conversation, and
other tokens, appeared to be a chief. He had a long
gun, of English manufacture: the name on the lock
was Barnet: it was very shaky; but, notwithstand-
ing, evidently highly prized.* He obtained a little
powder upon solicitation, and a few presents, of
which tawacah (tobacco) was most welcome, were as
usual distributed to the rest of the party. He was
permitted to fire one of the fowling-pieces, for we
wanted to see how far his knowledge of the use of
firearms extended ; and his proceeding caused much
amusement: he kneeled down in the sand, shut his
eyes, and compressed his lips firmly; and after a
slight pause, during which he was doubtless resolving
upon the performance of the great achievement,
pulled the trigger, and received a smart tap, having
held the gun loosely from the shoulder. Mightily

* We have since been informed that this gun was lost from Sir G. Pack’s
boats in 1826.

240 FOLLOWED BY OOMIAKS.

was he relieved when the exploit was concluded, and,
with his companions, breathed freely once more; for
they, like him, had been in all-engrossing suspense
until the deed was done. Our usual endeavours to
obtain intelligence were employed; a rude model of
a vessel again constructed, and with other signs put
in requisition ; but these efforts were unrewarded by
success. This occupation was interrupted by the
approach of a number more of the natives, which
warned us that our position on this narrow strip of
sand was easily assailable, in case of treachery. We
re-embarked, therefore, at thirty mmutes past eleven,
p.m., and pulled to the eastward, for the wind had
disappointed our expectations, and instead of
becoming fair, threatened to blow strongly from
the north-east. We speedily observed four large
oomiaks, filled with natives, who had apparently
come from two goodly collections of tents, one on
the point of the mainland abreast of us, the other,
and larger, a little to the eastward. The five oomiaks
crowded upon us much nearer than was agreeable,
for they contamed quite five times our number.
Mr. Pullen counted twenty-one men and two women
in one, and estimated that none of the rest held less
than sixteen persons. Our three boats were kept

close together, and the advances of the strangers

VISIT FROM ESQUIMAUX. 241

discouraged: they did not seem to comprehend nor
to relish our reserve. When they found that we
would not stop for them, nor accept their very
pressing invitations to land at the larger encampment,
on passing it, they gave up convoying us, and
returned to their tents, it bemg now long past mid-
night. The wind had, as we feared, increased
greatly, raising the sea also; and so little progress
was made, that the boats’ heads were turned to shore,
and we landed at nearly three, a.m., on the 12th,
near Point Beechy. Half of the party lay down to
sleep; the rest re-loaded the fire-arms, which had
nearly all become wetted from the quantity of water
shipped ; for it must be remembered that our boats
were so small, and moreover, so heavily laden, that
they were quite unprotected from the most trifling
sea or spray, and were unsafe in a breeze. We had
not been here long when a large number of the
natives came along the bank from their camp, which was
about two miles distant from our position. Although
they had apparently no weapons, we thought it
necessary to be on our guard, and as on a former
occasion, drew a line along the sand, across which
they were not permitted to pass. We were, indeed,
soon rendered still more cautious by observing among

the crowd the man who had given us some trouble at

R

24.2 “SHOVEL JACK.”

Point Berens, and whom, in reference to the object
of his desire on that occasion, our men had christened
“Shovel Jack.” He evidently wished to remain
incognito, sitting very quietly among a group of men,
and being disguised by a pair of snow spectacles,
which were made of wood, and had a narrow slit
lengthwise for vision. But we recognised him, not-
withstanding, and suspected mischief accordingly.
Foremost in the crowd was the tall man who visited
us on the preceding night: his gun, which his wife
now carried, was the only weapon visible. For a time
the natives remained quiet, and seated themselves
contentedly around ; but the tall man at last became
impatient of the restraint imposed by us, and crossed
the boundary line ; he was speedily re-conducted to
his own side of the border with the most scrupu-
lous politeness, which was unfortunately not
sufficiently appreciated by the native noble; he
re-crossed the line, and commenced to importune
for powder. A little tobacco was given to him, but
this was not satisfactory, and he walked off with a
number of his men, apparently in dudgeon, I thought
for good, but, as we soon found, for no good. A
preconcerted scheme became immediately manifest :
in a few seconds they were armed with bows and

arrows, which they had hidden near, and advanced

THREATENING ASPECT OF NATIVES. 243

upon us, the rest of the Esquimaux doing the same.
The scene was now becoming slightly exciting, and
preparations were instituted for our departure, but
with as little appearance of hurry as possible. When
all was ready, we retired slowly to the boats, and
embarking, pushed off as quickly as might be. We
were very nearly exchanging missiles, however ; for
instantly that we quitted the beach the Esquimaux
mounted on the bank above and prepared to shoot ;
but as we did likewise, they hesitated probably, to
reconsider the propriety of an attack. One young
man, in particular, looked very fierce, and with his
bent bow and fitted arrow was plainly taking aim at
our leader, whose life just then would have cost a
heavy premium for insurance; but the ambitious
warrior was quickly “covered”’ by five barrels, which
cooled his ardour in an instant, and he dropped down
under shelter of the bank. “Jack of the shovel”
was particularly singled out for one of the first victims
of the expected skirmish: many fingers itched to
draw trigger upon him; and this is not to be won-
dered at, for this man had evidently followed on our
trail, and by a description of our riches, and the
smallness of our number, incited the rest to attempt
to plunder, and probably to kill us.

I counted eighty-four or eighty-five men on the
R 2

244 HOSTILE DEPORTMENT OF NATIVES.

bank; the women, of whom, indeed, there had not
been many present, and those probably only as a
blind, had quickly withdrawn, when matters became
serious. Our great difficulty in gaining the boats
was caused by the shallowness of the water, and we
lost our anchors partly im consequence of this, as
time was not spared to haul up to them. ‘The
strong breeze still continuing, we regained the Return
Reef, landed, and buried three cases of pemmican ;
we had barely concluded, when three boats full of
natives having crossed from the village, landed also
about half a mile off, and came down towards us,
keeping to windward, that their arrows might fly
truly. We did not, however, give opportunity for a
display of their skill, but re-embarked, and pulled
away, first firing a shot over their heads. The whistling
ball made them wince and hesitate a little, but they
became emboldened by perceiving that it had done
no damage. This manceuvre is perhaps more in-
jurious than beneficial in its effect upon savages, as
they ascribe its harmless result rather to want of
skill or ability than to an intimation of the possession
of means of aggression or defence. As soon as we
had embarked, the Esquimaux regained, and launched
their oomiaks: with ther lght boats it was no

difficult matter to keep up with our deeply-immersed

HOSTILE DEPORTMENT OF NATIVES. 245

craft, and they hung upon our skirts, always keeping
to windward, and seeking a chance to attack.

An hour’s severe labour showed the vanity of con-
tending against a strong breeze, heavy sea, and loose
pack, and the resolution was made to return to the
Reef; and should the Esquimaux persist in molesting
us, no longer to withold their chastisement. Turning
about accordingly, we were not long in reaching the
shore, and landing on the seaward side, hauled the
boats up. Quantities of drift-wood lay around ; of
this a stockade was constructed, behind which half
the party lay down to sleep,—for repose was sadly
needed—the remainder being on watch. The Esqui-
maux landed, also, and threw up a breastwork, at
about five hundred yards distance, from behind
which they intently watched our proceedings, but
did not dare to advance in face of the fire-arms.
They made treacherous signals of amity, and erected
a skin frock on a pole, as an invitation to barter
and fraternise, but we were not to be so easily
deluded.

By and by two natives ventured to approach,
making all sorts of friendly gestures, but timid
enough under the mask ; for when about two hundred
yards distant, they were sent to the right-about in an

instant by Sullock, the sentinel-marine, who charged

246 THE SIEGE RAISED.

them with fixed bayonet, and they scampered back in
haste to their defences and companions.

In four hours the besiegers wearied of watching,
and fearing to try our position by assault, raised the
blockade, and took to their boats, very much to our
satisfaction. ‘Two oomiaks went over to the village
opposite, the third, which doubtless contained the
redoubtable and never sufficiently to be execrated
“Shovel Jack,” and his associates, pulling away to
the westward. When pretty well reposed, Mr. Pullen
and I walked down to the spot where the pemmican
was buried, and found it untouched. As we neared
the encampment on return, some of the seamen came
running towards us, exclaiming hastily that a sail was
in sight, and pointing to seaward, where, indeed,
something much resembling a vessel appeared, and
the “Nancy Dawson” was suggested, but a few
seconds sufficed to undeceive us; the object shifted
its position, and presenting a new phase, showed us
that it was but a tall hummock of ice, of peculiar
form.

The morning of the 13th was favourable for our
departure from our fortress unobserved ; a thick haze
overspread the sea, under cover of which we em-
barked at two, A.m., and pulled to windward out to

the pack. Passing some very heavy and extensive

Ses

LAND ON RETURN REEF. 24,7

floes, we /anded upon one which lay aground, moored
the boats with the pickaxe, the only substitute for an
anchor we possessed, and cooked breakfast with
spirits of wine. Well drenched with spray, exposed
to the biting blast, with the temperature below
freezing, and our only footing ice, it will not be
doubted that, as a simple question of inconvenience,
our discomfort this morning was very great; and, to
increase the wretchedness of our condition, a large
submerged tongue of ice broke off from the floe, and
rising up under the boats, well-nigh capsized them,
and much wetted us. After drinking ‘our cocoa,
which, in our benumbed state, was. perfect nectar, we
embarked the pickaxe and ourselves, and resumed the
oars, until the wind became favourable enough to
permit of hoisting sail. Among the pack some large
and high hummocks were observable; the haze
rendered their outlines undefined, and some curious
appearances were presented : one mass, in particular,
looked like a huge pile of gothic architecture.

Soon after noon we landed on the Return Reef,
near its eastern extreme, to dine and dry our clothes ;
the spray and drizzle having drenched all thoroughly.
Plenty of driftwood lay around, and we speedily
raised a huge fire, cooked and dispatched dinner, and

with reinvigorated spirits, were preparing to proceed,

248 ATTACK OF ESQUIMAUX.

when we saw two oomiaks, contamimg between forty
and fifty men, pulling in to the beach. These landed
as we pushed off, and ran along the strand towards
our resting-place, preparing their bows as they came,
and discharging their arrows with great rapidity at
the sternmost boat: only one arrow fell ahead of the
boat, the rest dropped short, but were beautifully
aimed. We fired the fowling-pieces with ball, first
over, and then at them, for the annoyance had now
been so long continued, that we were vexed: but
I do not think any one was hit. They cut some
ludicrous capers on the occasion, dancing and jump-
ing about, to divert our aim, and dropping, like dead
men, the instant they observed the flash. Having
got beyond the range of their arrows, sail was made
upon the boats, and we had a fine run until past mid-
night, passing Poimts Chandos and Anxiety, and
landing to encamp about two miles to the eastward of
Foggy Island, seeing no ice throughout.

We were not again molested by the Esquimaux ;
and I think it but right to conclude my relation of
their hostile proceedings with two or three remarks
on conduct in communication with uncivilised people.
The reasons for desiring to avoid collision, and the
great forbearance displayed on our part during the

late attacks, particularly deserve notice. Setting

>=

TREATMENT OF NATIVES. 24.9

aside the utter uselessness of riskmg myury or death
to either side, it must be obvious that a sanguinary
result could only have excited vindictive feelings,
which, in case any of Franklin’s or other party should
afterwards be thrown on the coast, probably m a
reduced condition, would surely find vent in their
destruction. But it must, on the other hand, be
confessed that the usual moderation of the whites has
inspired the Esquimaux with contempt for their
courage, rather than a correct estimation of thei
motives. It is most unwise unnecessarily to expose
to their view trinkets and implements, which have in
their eyes an almost inestimable value, and cannot
fail to excite their cupidity. Had our possessions
been more guardedly veiled at Point Berens, I feel
persuaded we should never have been subjected to
the late annoyance. Firmness and unfailing vigilance
are indispensable to security: never should the
slightest wavering from an original resolution be
displayed, nor should distrust ever be apparent,
though it must also be particularly noticed that
treachery lurks in every act of the Esquimaux, they
are not to be confided in for an instant ; and it should
always be remembered that the adage, “too much
familiarity breeds contempt,” is peculiarly appropriate

as regards communication with unenlightened tribes.

250 ESQUIMAUX ENCAMPMENT.

The more they have reason to respect visible powers,
the greater will be the mist of awe thrown around
uncomprehended properties.

We passed a most refreshing night of repose after
the late harassing period of two days, and arose
reinvigorated for new toil.

Going in search of water, and to examine a mark
on a hillock near, we discovered a spot where Esqui-
maux had lately encamped; the remains of a fire and
débris of a feast on reindeer and wildfowl were
visible, and four or five very small three-legged

stools, to which we never again saw anything similar.

CHAPTER XVI.

Lion Reef.—Seals——Mountains.—Ducks and Divers.—Daily routine.—
Flaxman’s Island.—Ice.—Large Drift Wood.—Bury Pemmican.—Dog
Seen.—Native Huts. —Presents.— Ethnographic distinctions.—Euro-
pean Knife.—Send up Rockets.—Native wonder.—Oomiaks’ mimic
manceuvres. —Esquimaux Family. — Whales. — Herschel Island. —
Wind shifts suddenly.—Difficulties.—Calton Point. —Esquimaux
bring Fish.—Tracking.—Paradoxical, Barrows.— Land near Sabine
Point.—Huts and Women.—Buy a frock from a Lady.—Thefts.—
Compasses affected.—Approach to Mackenzie.—Tracking up River.—
Change in Vegetation.—Bear and Deer Tracks.—Erect a Cross.—
Indian visitor.—Peel River.—Mr. Hardisty visits us.—Proceed to Fort
M‘Pherson.—Changed phase of existence.—Departure of Mr. Pullen.
—Annual Despatch.—Indian Paint and Decoration.—Loucheux or
Quarrellers.— Rat Indians.—Gluttony.— Indian Betrothals.— Forty
skins for one.—Indian Currency.—Esquimaux and Indian Feuds.

On the Lion Reef, where we slept on the night of
the 14th, a multitude of seals were collected, so
perfectly still, that in the dusk we at first mistook
them for driftwood ; but their tumultuous rush into
the water on our approach, enlightened us as to their
vitality. We observed the Romanzoff Mountains
from this place, which is island and reef combined :
they are apparently about thirty miles from the sea,
their spurs extending far imto the plains around.

A yise and fall of tide amounting to eighteen inches,

252 DAILY ROUTINE.

occurred in the night, the current setting strongly to
the westward, with the wind fresh from north-east ; and
may here remark, “en passant,” that our experience
along this coast led us to consider the currents as
mainly governed by the wind. I do not recollect a
single ‘‘ weather tide.”

Between this island and the main land we were
unable to find a passage, and were obliged to pass
outside, where a good deal of heavy sailing ice was
in motion. The number of ducks and diving-birds
seen for the last two or three days truly astonished
us, but they were so wild, that we could kill but
few. Immense quantities of driftwood lay along the
shores, much of it of large size, and nearly all very
straight. The coast lime where not very low, was
generally composed of banks of mud and ice, with a
surface of about eighteen inches or two feet of peaty
stuff, elastic and spongy.

The routine of one day’s work on this coasting trip
was very much a sample of the rest: sometimes we
pulled separately, or in line tacked on to each other ;
sailed when we could, of course, never removing far
from the shore, in scarcely any instance beyond two
or three miles ; and landing, generally to take meals,
and as much oftener as numerous marks upon the

shore called for examination. ‘The most trivial signs

FLAXMAN’S ISLAND. 253

were scrupulously regarded; and had any strange
party been on this coast, we could not have failed to
discover them. With only one or two exceptions, we
always slept on shore, for it may be easily guessed
that our boats afforded little space or convenience for
repose ; and as until the middle of August we had
constant daylight, that durmg the night-hours being
very much like the gloom of smoky old London in a
mist, it would not have been easy for us to have
passed any animate objects unobserved or unob-
servant.

Flaxman’s Island, which was reached on the 16th,
appears, when approached from the westward, high
and bold; but this is the character of the eastern
part only ; its western extreme is little higher than the
* Tiion,” and encompassed by small spits and shoals.
We landed in the afternoon on a nice gravelly beach
at the eastern end, where cliffs about forty feet high
rise abruptly from it, and on the summit of which
was found a human skull, and other bones. ‘The
pack, which was heavy, lay close down upon the
northern shore of the island, the channel between
which and the main was also much crowded with drift
ice. Camden Bay, as viewed from the top of the cliff,
appeared to be completely blocked up with ice, and

we were somewhat apprehensive of a stoppage; but

254 NIGHT ON THE ICE.

considerable labour in pulling and pushing through
the ice, brought us to a clear though narrow lane of
water, close to the beach. We saw here, I think,
more ice than at any other period during our journey ;
as far as the eye could range to seaward, nought else
was visible, and all varieties were presented—the brash,
or broken-up ice ; the floe, smooth and flat, and often
many acres in extent ; and the tall ragged hummocks,
of picturesque outline, bergs in miniature. Frequent
loud reports broke upon the stillness, and startled the
ear, as masses rent asunder; the sounds, with their
reverberating echoes, resembling the rumbling of far-
off thunder, or booming of distant cannon.

We were unable to reach the beach this evening,
owing to the shallowness of the water, and secured to
a grounded floe with the faithful pickaxe, which
had deservedly received promotion to an acting-order
as anchor. Having hauled the boats close together,
the sails were spread above, the kitchen was estab-
lished upon the ice, and we reposed with sufficient
comfort until rudely disturbed by an under-tongue of
ice; which breaking away, floated up under the
boats, lifted them out of the water, and threw them
on their broadsides. With some difficulty we got rid
of the unwelcome intruder, and soon snoozed again.

It cost httle trouble to raise camp next morning, and

BURY PEMMICAN. 255

we pushed on to Boulder Island to breakfast, the ice
having happily drifted off shore during the night.
Here, amongst quantities of drift timber, was a
straight trunk, full eighty feet in length, and ten in
circumference at its base. Proceeding onwards,
eight tents, and a hut of driftwood, were espied
upon the shore, but, strange to say, no natives
appeared: we did not halt to examine them, but
pushed on with a light breeze, and reaching Barter
Island late at night, landed and encamped.

I should think that Barter Island is in the winter
time much overlaid by ice; its shelving, shingly shore
would yield to the enormous pressure of a gale-
driven pack. |

Three cases of pemmican were buried on the 18th,
on a small island near Manning Point, and a cross
erected, with directions to search at ten feet distance,
north-east, where information was deposited. Near
Humphrey’s Pot, on the morning of the 20th,
four tents were seen, from which a couple of dozen
natives came forth to gaze; but being under sail, we
could not lmger here. We landed near Icy Reef in
the afternoon to dine, and observed several huts,
loosely constructed of rods and driftwood, except
one or two, which were more compactly built, and

had possibly served as winter dwellings. In one of

256 NATIVE HUTS.

these I found a quantity of knife-shavings, some
small wooden fish for decoys and floats, and the still
live embers of a fire; we had also seen a dog on
landing ; and this, in connection with the fire, indi-
cated that natives could not be far off, if, indeed, our
appearance had not put them to flight. These con-
jectures were correct: in a short time we saw a
number of Esquimaux in two oomiaks, and made
signs to them to return; but they were evidently too
timid to approach.

As they had seen us enter the huts, I judged it
probable that they would venture thither to seek the
result of our visit, so drew a_ hieroglyphic epistle
upon a piece of board, and placed it, with a few
beads and scraps of tobacco, inside, then departed
to a distance, where our men were preparing dinner.
Presently we saw one or two creeping stealthily
towards the huts, and soon afterwards they came to
us without distrust, doubtless assured of our good
intentions by the discovery of the triflmg deposits
we had left, and which they now brought with
them. The “entente cordiale” was perfected by a
distribution of presents, and we engaged in a very
animated, but unproductive conversation respecting
the objects of our search, which they had clearly

seen nothing of.

PERSONAL APPEARANCE. 257

The women of this party wore their hair in a
mode quite different to that we had before seen ;
it was disposed at the back of the head in two
immense bows, which we found to contain a quantity
of loose hair, to increase their size; nor can I say
that either these or their dusky owners were of pre-
possessing appearance. The men were of slighter
figure than those about Pomt Barrow, but evidently
possessed great activity and endurance of fatigue:
they wore their hair long, and flowing far over
their shoulders. One of them had a broad and
short double-edged knife, on which the names of
“TJ. and H. Sorby” were imprinted: this must have
been obtained by barter from the Indians, as it was
of the kind called dagues, supplied by the Hudson’s
Bay Company to those people. We quitted our new
friends after dinner, but could only reach the northern
end of the reef that night, principally in consequence
of a dense fog occurring. Our encampment was very
soon surrounded by a crowd of Esquimaux, of the
same appearance as our visitors of the morning ; they
were, however, probably from their numbers, less
timorous, and, indeed, troubled us much, being
evidently not disinclined to appropriate any stray
article. The “Supply,” at first, created great sus-

picion of our integrity, as it was intimated that we

s

258 SURROUNDED BY ESQUIMAUX.

had probably obtained her by undue, and, possibly,
violent means: this doubt was, however, speedily
cleared up by our signs and representations, and,
more than all, the display and distribution of beads,
tobacco, and knives, with which also we purchased
fish, which they had in plenty. Our visitants
gradually increased to a considerable number ; and as
they encroached upon the defined boundaries of our
camp, two rockets were sent up, ostensibly to divert,
but really in the hope of frightening the natives off to
a less dangerous proximity. Hugely astonished and
delighted they were ; and expressed their sensations
in a rapid flow of speech, grimace, and gesticulation ;
but they did not draw off to a distance, notwith-
standing; and unwilling to display the natural
anxiety attendant on the encircling of our slender
band by so large a number of strangers, whose
intentions we were quite ignorant of, the precaution
was taken, instead, of doubling the sentinels, and
impressing upon them the necessity of great vigilance.
These Esquimaux made some signs which, coupled
with the frequent use of the word “ mah-no-lah”
(white man), led us to conjecture that they saw the
expedition of Dease and Simpson, but of this we
could not be confident.

The next morning (2]st) we proceeded on our

FISH-SPEARING. 259

journey. The good folks collected round five tents
near our resting-place, which belonged to some of
them, to bid us farewell; and five men launching
their tiny and beautiful kiacs, accompanied us for a
while, the light vessels, propelled by a double-bladed
paddle, dancing over the rippling waves light as a
gossamer, and keeping pace with us with perfect ease,
although we were favoured by a light breeze, and
used both oars and sail. Two of these men continued
with us for a considerable time, and amused us
greatly by their proceedings. They frequently darted
their fish-spears, or harpoons, at imaginary prey, to
demonstrate the mode of using them: these spears
were about a yard long, of thin drift-wood, with
double or triple barbs of ivory: they were thrown
from a hand-board, into which they fitted in a socket,
and had a bladder attached to keep them afloat in
the water, the hunter pickmg them up with great ease
as he passed rapidly onwards in his canoe. We
landed to dine at about noon, and were shortly jomed
by the family of one of our frieads, who had hailed
his spouse when passing the spot where his tent was
pitched. In a very short time they had struck the
tent: this, with themselves and household gods, now
filled their oomiak, which was laden to the gunwale.

Soon a number more of the natives arrived in single
8 2

260 MIGRATORY HABITS.

and family boats, the latter all laden like the first
oomiak, the party being apparently about to change
their locality; for im summer their existence is
entirely nomadic; they migrate from place to place
as Caprice or convenience suggests. A little bartermg
was carried on between us, but we only remained on
shore long enough to cook dinner, then pushed off
from the land, and drifted slowly onward under
reduced sail, to eat our meal m peace ; nevertheless,
this was not altogether permitted; the Esquimaux
embarked at the same time ; the women and children
going up in-shore in the oomiaks, the men in their
kiaks, to the number of a dozen or more, keeping
company with ourselves, cruismg round and about us,
and displaymg, as before, mimicry of chase and
combat. They quitted us only when the freshening
breeze impelled our craft more rapidly than the
pace of the deeply-laden oomiaks, which they then
rejoined. ‘Two whales were seen during the after-
noon, and later, a goodly collection of tents, with
about two hundred natives, assembled near: these
shouted lustily, and danced and sung with energy,
hoping, by these and other artifices, to Induce us to
land, of which, however, time did not admit. The
wind from west became strong towards evening, and,

as was always the case, the sea quickly rose, upon its

DISASTROUS SHIFT OF WIND. 261

increase. To obtain a few bearings of Herschel
Island, and objects on the mainland, we ran under
the lee of the pack, which was very solid, consisting
of floe-pieces, two or three square miles in area, and
ten or twelve feet thick. Two reefs were now taken
in the sails, a reduction the force of wind had
rendered necessary ; but the sea “followed” so fast,
that we ran some danger of swamping, and shortly
encamped for the night under the lee of a long spit,
which formed part of one of the small islands between
that of Herschel and the continent. The small tent
only was pitched for Mr. Pullen and myself, the sea-
men taking up their quarters in a -deserted Esqui-
maux hut. The ice met with to-day was heavier
than any before encountered; it lay close into and
upon the north-western shores of Herschel Island,
with large floes and loose masses driving rapidly to
the eastward. LHarly on the 22nd a new disaster
occurred: the wind shifted suddenly to the south-
west, to which quarter only our position was
exposed. The boats were driven broadside on to
the beach, and instantly filled. This misfortune did
more injury than any of the previous, as the instru-
ments, and our only luxuries, consisting of a few
small stores, were completely immersed, and became

considerably diminished ; salt, pepper, mustard, sago,

262 CALTON POINT.

and arrowroot, were in solution; and the contents
of the medicine-chest would have required careful
analysation to determine their respective quantities.
With much labour, and many duckings, the boats
were cleared, and all but irretrievable damages
repaired; and by seven, we had launched and re-
loaded the boats. The wind was still very strong
when we embarked, requiring double-reefed sails,
with which we proceeded until eleven, when, to
secure the safety of the “Supply,’ we ran under
Herschel Island, and took an early dinner; for the
periods of our meals were at all times subject to
the convenience of the moment. The afternoon’s
fortune was little propitious: the three boats all pro-
ceeded under sail, the “ Supply” being closely waited
upon by the others, which was indeed a necessary
measure of precaution, for she shipped a good deal of
water, and obliged us to come to an early halt under
the lee of a gravelly island spit, near to and south-
east of Calton Pomt. Long large fires of drift-wood
were made, on each side of which the damaged
biscuit was spread, and in this way considerably
dried ; but one evil was repaired only by the infliction
of another ; for m addition to its previous mouldiness
and gall-like flavour, it was now plentifully inter-

mixed with sand and grit, which fought fierce battles

CURIOUS MOUNDS. 263

with our hapless molars. Kay’s Point was rounded
in the afternoon of the 23rd, during the morning of
which we were visited by a small party of Esqui-
maux, and our night’s sojourn was made a few miles
to the eastward, where were several deserted huts of
drift-wood, of which latter great quantities lay upon
the beach, proving its exposed position.

The banks were high and steep, and covered with
grass and flowers in luxuriance, among which we
chased three red foxes. A single Esquimaux visited
our bivouac, with few signs of fear; and after re-
ceiving some small presents, departed to fetch us
some fish. During this and the previous night a
heavy dew was first observed. Our visitor returned
in a few hours, bringing the promised fish; and had
become so well assured of our amicable disposition,
that his wife and children now accompanied him.
We tracked along shore durmg the morning, which
was the most favourable mode of proceeding.
Mr. Pullen and myself roamed frequently along and
above the high banks in search of plants and flowers,
which we never failed to collect; and while so
engaged I came upon a very extraordinary spot : four
or five immense mounds, like the ancient barrows so
frequently met with in England and elsewhere, stood

upon -a nearly level space, in a break in the high

264 ESQUIMAUX WINTER HAMLET.

banks, between King and Sabine Points. They were
from twenty to forty feet high, and their summits at
least a hundred above the sea, conical in form, and
pierced with innumerable swallow-holes. Placed
where they could be of no use to any people, too far
removed from the sea, and too regular in form to
have been recently shaped by its action, they were a
complete paradox; and I could conceive no cause,
natural or artificial, for their existence im this spot,
unless, as their substance was mud and very fine
black mould, they were formed by deposit from suc-
cessive land-slips, in succeeding spring seasons, upon
the melting of the snows. I had not, unfortunately,
time for minute notice of these remarkable objects, as
the boats and my comrades were already far in
advance, and I was forced to follow in haste.

We landed in the evening near Sabine Point, and
found here an Esquimaux winter hamlet, built of
drift-wood and sods. It was at present only tenanted
by females of all ages and very young boys, the men
being all absent on fishing and hunting excursions.
The younger ladies, some of whom were prettily-
featured and of tolerable figure, lent their assistance to
haul the boats upon the beach ; nor was theirs trifling
aid; for, reared in unremitting toil, they are strong

and hardy enough; nor does their vigour appear to

STEALING. 265

decline early; for although nearly all the old women
we saw were, candidly to speak, almost hideous, their
strength did not seem to have forsaken them
greatly. We obtained by barter some very fine fish,
among which were beautiful salmon, also various
articles of dress and curiosity. From one damsel |
purchased the frock she wore; and although we of a
milder clime found the night sensibly cold, the loss
of the garment did not seem to be at all inconvenient ;
it was decorated with a number of small white beads,
but these were particularly exempted in the bargain,
and the girls were all most anxious to obtain this
kind. A few faint streaks of Aurora were observed
to night, the first seen during the season. I think it
worth while to notice the abstraction of two articles
at this place, taken probably while the boats were
partly unloaded: one was a bottle, containmg lemon
syrup; the other a handsome clasp-knife, of Spanish
manufacture, about ten inches long, having the
handle of ivory, with etching in compartments ; its
recognition by any future expedition may be
productive of interest.

A strong current running to the westward, of
fresh and yellow water, evidenced on the 25th
proximity to the efflux of the Mackenzie, our delight
at which may well be imagined. We landed in the

266 WE APPROACH OUR GOAL.

morning on Escape Reef, to examine the compasses,
which had become unaccountably sluggish, and
indeed useless; and passing between this and the
mainland, grounded in the afternoon in Shoalwater
Bay, and landed for the mght on Tent Island, which
is aptly named, for several curious very slight frames
of wood, which were evidently for tents, stood near
where we pitched our canvas houses. This was a
beautiful spot, verdant and level, and intersected by
long lakes of pellucid water. During the day two
Esquimaux men—the last we saw on the voyage—
came out to us in their kiaks, and accompanied us
for a considerable distance: they were full of talk,
but we could only make out that a large river was
near, with white men on its banks. In our progress
on the 26th, we began to observe low scrub along
the shore; the water also was greatly discoloured,
turbid, and perfectly fresh; all evidencing near
approach to the goal of our ardent wishes.

We were engaged durmg the 27th in making
observations and examining sundry labyrinthine
passages ; and in the afternoon entered a narrow, but
deep and rapid channel, which we ascended for
about two miles, where we landed on the left bank,
and hailed with satisfaction our entrance into

the Mackenzie River, and the probable speedy

ASCENT OF THE MACKENZIE RIVER. 267

termination of this arduous and most comfortless
voyage.

A clause in Mr. Pullen’s instructions directed, if
possible, a visit to Whale Island: this he attempted
with one boat’s crew next day, but returned in the
evening of the 29th, without having accomplished
his object, the weather having been very inimical
to success.

The ascent of the river was accomplished princi-
pally by tracking, which, always laborious, was here
a very great task for our poor fellows, who were
almost new to its delights, and had frequently to
wade knee-deep in water or mud, with a temperature
considerably below freezing. The banks were covered
near the sea with low willow scrub; but as we
proceeded, this grew higher: a few stunted spruce
firs appeared, and gradually the rigorous character of
the vegetation changed to a milder aspect. The
tracks of bears, moose, and reindeer, were frequent ;
occasionally, also, prints of the mocassins of some
solitary hunter gave sign of human life. The banks
displayed the effects of the enormous force exerted by
the spring-flushes, with their cargoes of ice ; being,
in the bends of the channel, undermined to within a
few feet of the surface, and in some places a succes-

sion of terraces had been formed by the same agents.

268 FORT MACPHERSON.

On the 4th of September, after remarking the
continually increasing luxuriance of vegetation and
growth of the trees, and passing a channel which we
took to be the mouth of the Peel River, we reached a
position at first conjectured to be Pomt Separation,
which observations placed us four miles to the south
of. Mr. Pullen and myself left ow encampment with
one boat to examine the banks, bury information,
and erect a cross; and on return, learned that an
Indian had visited the party, and given the men to
understand by signs that a settlement of whites was
not far distant, to which Mr. Pullen determined to
proceed, though now pretty confident that we had
ascended the Peel by mistake, and were near the fort
of the Hudson’s Bay Company, established on its
bank. ‘This opinion was correct; we were met on
the morning of the 5th by Mr. Wm. Lucas Hardisty,
the gentleman in charge of the post, who had been
informed of our approach by the Indian who visited
the tents last evening; and he now escorted us to
the establishment, which was styled Fort Macpherson.

I enter now upon the relation of a period which
has little in common with the foregoing parts of my
narrative : an entirely new phase of existence has to
be presented—new habits, new companions, almost a

new nature. No longer inmates of a ship, no longer

PROCEED TO FORT GOOD HOPE. 269

tempting, on a barren and frozen coast, the fearful
consequences contingent, in our unprovided condition,
upon the destruction of our frail barks, or impediment
to our progress, I have to speak of dreary winter’s
residence in almost cheerless solitude, amid dense
forests and universal snow.

Our ascent of the Mackenzie had been undertaken
for the purpose of reaching Fort Good Hope, where,
or at this place, it was intended we should winter :
the report of the resources of this station induced
Mr. Pullen to leave a portion of his party here, and
proceed with the remainder to Fort Good Hope; the
expedition to unite in the spring to proceed to
England. He accordingly gave me orders to remain
with five men; the greater portion of the stores
with one boat, were also left; and on the 6th of
September Mr. Pullen with seven men departed in
the “Logan” for Fort Good Hope, which is the
most northerly post of the Hudson’s Bay Company on
the Mackenzie River, and for which place he was
furnished with a guide.

There were several Indians at Fort Macpherson,
who awaited the return of a boat which is yearly
dispatched up the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson, the
head-quarters of the district, for supplies to barter

in exchange for the furs and provisions furnished by

270 THE LOUCHEUX INDIANS.

them. They were now preparing for a grand dance
upon her arrival, which is always a most important
event and season of rejoicing to them. Upon a
line on the strand hung several eagle-skins, with the
feathers of which they would ornament themselves on
the festal occasion. They were to-day painted in
different ways and varieties of colour; some with
broad patches across the face; others with stripes,
and having one cheek or eyebrow of a different hue
to its opposite. I observed one or two with
“wampum” (a kind of long hollow shell), through
the septum of the nose; but understood that this
appendage is gradually falling into disuse since the
settlement of whites in this quarter. The Indians we
were among belonged to the large tribe of Loucheux,
or Quarrellers, and were particularly distinguished by
the title of “Fond du Lac Loucheux,” that being the
name of an enlargement in this, the Peel River, five
days’ journey (about a hundred miles) above the fort,
where these Indians congregate in great numbers to
fish. Another tribe called ‘“‘ Rats” come across the
mountains from the Rat river with meat and furs to
barter. The two tribes speak the same language, but
have a somewhat different pronunciation of it. The
very obliging communications of Mr. Hardisty gave

them a character for great mdolence and improvi-

CURIOUS MATRIMONIAT CUSTOM. 271

dence ; the “ Fond du Lacs’? more so perhaps than
the Rat Indians. They are both great gormandisers,
and will devour solid fat, or even drink grease to
surfeiting. When in provision they pass their time
in continual feasting, and are of course often in the
opposite extreme, but do not bear starvation with so
great patience as the ‘“ Dogribs,’ Hare, or Slave-
Indians.

A curious custom matrimonial is said to exist
among them, which Mr. Hardisty thus related to me.
When a female child becomes two or three years old, a
bargain is made with the parents, in which the mother is
most interested, by some youth of the tribe, that she
is to become his wife when marriageable ; the settle-
ment is deferred until that period, but the contract is
always binding: and should another lover step in,
and by any means succeed in obtaining the damsel,
she is not considered to be his wife until he has made
satisfactory compensation to the ci-devant bride-
groom. Polygamy is practised, generally in proportion
to the rank and wealth of the man, a young wife
being added to the stock on hand, when one becomes
too old for the laborious employments imposed upon
the females ; the new acquisition becoming, of course,
the favourite sultana. I saw while here a Loucheux

Indian, who, some five years since, killed one of the

272 INDIAN CURRENCY.

“Rats,” with whom his tribe were then at enmity,
and his life was sought in return. The company,
however, redeemed his life by payment of a fine, and
the tribes are now on a friendly footing: the fine
paid was forty shizs, to explain which term I must
notice that the Indian currency, or that set up by the
Hudson’s Bay Company in their exchanges with the
Indians, is conducted by means of proportionate
values to a single standard. This standard is a large
beaver-skin, and called a skin: thus the price paid
to redeem this man’s life was not really forty beaver-

skins, but articles of value equivalent to their amount,

as follows :—
A gun ‘ ; ; : equal to 20 skins.
A blanket . : ; : <5 10 35

Six measures of powder . A
Thirty-six bullets . : : a
A large worsted belt

>”?
”

”

Total value received .

|e
(=) Ll or)

»

By this species of exchange or value all articles
on either side are rated, the company having an
established tariff for each district, which may not,
on any account, be deviated from, unless by revision
at head-quarters.

The Indians and Esquimaux are still as great
enemies as when Dease and Simpson made their

excursions upon the coast, despite the strenuous

INDIAN QUARRELS. 273

endeavours of officers of the Company to establish
friendly intercourse. They are mutually afraid; but
the Esquimaux are now nonplussed by the guns of
their adversaries. They say that they only entertain
hatred against the Loucheux of Fond du Lac, and
constantly meet and converse with those of the
Mackenzie, although with an intervening distance,
each probably standing in suspicious fear of the
other; but with the Indians of the Peel River the
case is very different. ‘War to the knife” exists
between them and the Esquimaux. ‘There is a
tradition accounting for this, which, although vague,
I think worthy of mention.

Many winters ago, how far back is uncertain, the
two races were friends, and used to hunt together.
On one of these occasions, when a large party was
assembled, a few of the Indians, who, with a number
of the Esquimaux, had been detached from the main
body, did not return with them. The Esquimaux
said that they had become separated; but this was
not credited by the friends of the missing, who
believed them to have been treacherously murdered.
Dissembling their intentions, they parted from the
others, and returning by night, attacked and killed
many of them: the feud has since that period been

constantly kept alive by alternate outrages.

CHAPTER XVII.

Horrible Esquimaux attack.—Massacre of Loucheux.—Indian bravery.—
Anatomical research.—Five Commoners make one Chief.—Mr. Peers’
unsuccessful mediation.—Indian instincts of revenge.—Indian supplies.
Leave for Fort Norman.—Indian Guides.—Followers dog us.—Enemy
captures our stores.—Enter Mackenzie.—Guides quit us.—Dogs again.
—Encamp.— Our hut takes fire.— Pine Forests.— Ice-master frost-
bitten.—Reach Fort Good Hope.—Mr. Mc Beath; his kind attentions.
—Cent Sous Rapid.—Bear River.—Burning banks.—Reach Fort
Norman.—Mr. Mc Kenzie; his hospitality.—Salteaux’ Legend of the
Deluge.—Wolf Brothers & Co.

Four or five years ago a party of fifteen or twenty
Hsquimaux ascended the Mackenzie, and entered the
Peel river, where, just at its mouth, were encamped
a party of Fond du Lac Loucheux, consisting of
three men, their wives, and five children. ‘These
they came upon secretly at might, and surrounding
the lodge wherein they slept, gave a fearful yell,
which awakened the inmates, who, rushing out im
affright, were successively struck down by the arrows
of their merciless foes; only one escaped, a little boy,
of nine years old, who made his way through the
woods up to the Company’s fort, to the surprise both

of friends and enemies, who never expected him to

AN INDIAN HERO. Pa

live through the journey, if even able to find his way
up to the Fort through the tangled maze, which had
sheltered him. After this ferocious exploit the
Esquimaux party continued their ascent of the
“Peel,” and at a couple of miles distance below the
present Fort encountered an Indian, since nick-
named Bourreau, or the hangman, but whose proper
appellation was Vayd-sich-tchah (the deer’s brother).

The chief and three others crossed a small creek,
behind which the rest of the party lay nm ambush;
and counterfeiting friendship, commenced to parley
with Le Bourreau, who, however, knowing his com-
pany, was not lightly deceived; and soon observing
significant winks interchanged, and arrows slily pre-
paring, instantly anticipated his foes by taking the
initiative. He felled the chief with his gun, and
discharged it at another, who was also killed; the
other two gained their canoes in haste; but one of
them received a shot, and falling over, capsized his
frail bark : the other man tried to right his boat, but
was at last obliged to leave him to his fate, having
himself been fired at, but without effect. Those in
ambush also fled; and Le Bourreau commenced a
post-mortem examination of the chief, merely, as he
expressed himself, to see if he was fat. He made

incisions lengthwise and crosswise in the carcase,
T 2

276 ESQUIMAUX ANIMOSITY.

pulled out the interior arrangements, possibly, like
heathen priests, to consult their auguries, and cutting
the cheek-bones out, brought them up to the fort,
and offered to present them as a trophy to Mr. Pruden,
then in charge of the post.

Since that period no affray had occurred between
the hostile parties, nor had Esquimaux been seen i
the Peel; but the Rat Indians were informed by a
party of Esquimaux, who live somewhere near the
Colville, and are friendly, that those near the mouth
of the Mackenzie declared that they must have five
lives of Loucheux for that of the chief. who was killed.

Mr. Peers, one of the Company’s officers, made an
endeavour, not long before the period of our visit, to
conciliate the Esquimaux. He sent various presents
to them with messages of friendly import; but they
replied that he desired only to entrap them, and that
the whites supplied the Loucheux with guns for their
destruction.

These excellent and praiseworthy endeavours were
thus rendered abortive ; nor would it be an easy task
to reconcile the races, since even the Loucheux, when
offered rewards to abstain from hostilities, would not
accept them, saying, that they should only break faith
with their friends the whites, as they could not restrain

themselves at sight of an Esquimaux, but must have at

INDIAN SUPPLIES. OTE

him. ‘This was at any rate an ingenuous and honest
confession, however much it displayed the revengeful
tendency of their savage natures.

An Indian who, with two others, arrived at the Fort
with meat, had been very successful in his summer’s
hunt. He had killed since July nearly a hundred
reindeer and one moose, the dried sides of which had
been put in “ caches” in the mountains, whence upon
the snowfall, they would be brought hither by dogs
and sledges.

The 18th of September brought the long-expected
boats from Fort Simpson, and with them came
Mr. Peers, who resumed charge of the station.
Myself and party were very disagreeably surprised by
a communication from that gentleman that we could
not be retained here during the winter, insufficiency
of provisions being assigned as the reason. Mr. Peers
had seen Lieutenant Pullen near Fort Good Hope,
but no communication had occurred on the subject,
and a short note from my commander had no reference
to it.

I was recommended to proceed immediately to Fort
Norman, an intermediate post on the Mackenzie,
where I should find ‘‘ ample maintenance ” for myself
and party. There was no help for it; go we must,

and at noon next day we bade farewell to our kind

278 LEAVE FORT MAC PHERSON.

friend Mr. Hardisty, whose most obliging disposition
I here pay tribute to; also to Mr. and Mrs. Peers, that
gentleman having been accompanied by his bride, and
departed on a journey which we regretted had not
been undertaken a fortnight earlier; for, as may well
be guessed, the advance of the season did not
increase the mildness of temperature. We were
obliged to leave four hundred pounds of preserved
meats and vegetables behind, our boat—which had
been snugly hauled up on the beach in expectation of
the winter’s sojourn—being too deeply laden to carry
them.

Two Indians accompanied us, to point out the
nearest cut into the Mackenzie, after which we were to
find our own way as we best might to Fort Good
Hope. We did not encamp until a late hour; and
were greatly amused by the antics of our guides,
who were continually peeping and peering about
among the bushes, and into the shadows, evidently in
an agony of suspense lest Esquimaux should be
lurking in the vicmity. The Indians were certainly
greatly afraid of their sea-coast neighbours, who,
since the acquisition of firearms, also stand much in
awe of those possessing them. We were greatly
annoyed, soon after departing from Fort Mac Pherson,

to see nearly a dozen dogs belonging to the establish-

ENTER MACKENZIE RIVER. 279

ment followmg us along the river’s bank, and
endeavoured to drive them back; but without per-
manent success, as after encamping at a late hour,
we were vexed at their running in amongst us; nor
was their journey bootless. During the night the
rascals made a determined attack upon the boat, and
ate up about thirty pounds of fresh venison, which we
had brought for immediate consumption. They must
have had cunning and perseverance enough, as it
was stowed in the bottom of the boat, and well
covered up.

On entering the Mackenzie early next morning the
Indians quitted us, and we pursued our way alone.
The great breadth and swift current of the river
presented a remarkable contrast to the narrow
sluggish stream we had just left, and my wonder
was great however we could have entered the Peel
by mistake; but the mystery was easily explained.
The Mackenzie, at Point Separation, divides into two
branches, which are again subdivided in their descent
into a perfect labyrinth of narrow channels.

Those horrid dogs followed us until late in the
afternoon, although we crossed the river several times
for convenience of tracking, which is the universal
mode of ascending these rapid rivers, unless a strong

fair breeze makes sails of use. Passing Point

280 COMFORTS OF THE VOYAGE.

Separation, the head of the delta, we encamped late
in the evening, if that may be called encamping which
was simply lighting a fire and squatting round it,
with no other shelter than our sail—a very small
affair—to protect six people. Soon after landing one
of the crew informed me he had seen an Esquimaux
oomiak pulling up in-shore at dusk; but not having
been certain, would not mention it at the time.
Desirmg him never again to hesitate in such a case,
I set a watch during the night, and had the arms in
readiness ; but we saw no sign of the bugbear, and I
do not doubt he was mistaken. I had procured
a blanket for each man at Peel’s River; this comfort-
able provision modified, in a measure, the severity of
our journey ; but at this late period of the season we
suffered sufficiently from its mclemency, as frost and
snow had set in. At that period I was so little expe-
rienced in this mode of travelling, as to be unable to
avail myself of many now well-known expedients for
additional comfort. Nor had the gentlemen at Fort
Mac Pherson thought of enlightening my ignorance,
being so much accustomed to this primitive life as to
deem it probably a matter of course that we should
know all about it. In our ascent of the river we had
varied fortune; an occasional fine day, but more

generally snow and sleet, with biting wmds. Many

PINE FORESTS. 281

birds were seen: swans, geese, ducks, hawks, crows,
a few gulls, and others ; also frequent tracks of moose
and reindeer. One night we took up our quarters in
a deserted Indian lodge, a most welcome. shelter, of
which however we were nearly deprived ; for having
lit a fire inside, a spark caught the dry material of the
hut, which was constructed of logs and pine-brush,
and roofed with bark, and speedily set it in a blaze,
which we had some difficulty in quenching.

One is much struck on first acquaintance with the
dense forests, principally of pine, which cover the face
of this country, at observing large tracts overrun
with fire, which withers and scathes trees and lesser
vegetation alike. We saw many such fires and their
effects. A spark from an Indian’s pipe, or the unex-
tinguished fire of a bivouac, ignites the grass and
moss, and with a breeze very soon overspreads large
spaces. ‘These fires will frequently smoulder through-
out the summer amongst the moss and underwood,
ceasing only when quenched by the winter’s snows.

The ice-master, who was of the party, was unfor-
tunately frost-bitten in the toes on the night of the
24th. The injury was much aggravated by exposure
to the fire before circulation was restored ; and he
suffered long and severely.

We reached Fort Good Hope in the evening of

282 INDIAN GUIDES.

the 26th, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. Adam
Mac Beath, the gentleman im charge of that station,
who paid every attention to our comfort, and under-
took the treatment of the injured feet, which, until
seeing, he would not believe were frost-bitten. He
applied a poultice made of the imner bark of the
larch fir, which was a great relief. We remained
two days here to repose the crew, and experienced
much kindness and hospitality from Mr. Mac Beath
and his amiable lady. He furnished me with two
Indians as guides, and to assist im ascending the
river to Fort Norman, had mocassins made for the
party, and lent me his tent, which proved of great
value in our hitherto unprovided condition. The
remainder of the journey to Fort Norman was
accomplished with much more ease and comfort than
the foregoing. The two Indian lads were of great
assistance in tracking, though, as guides, little de-
pendence could be placed in them. A small rapid
was surmounted soon after quitting Fort Good Hope ;
and on the Ist October a larger one, called “ Cent
Sous,” after an Indian of that name, who was, I
believe, drowned there in his canoe. Mr. Pullen had
at Fort Good Hope exchanged the “ Logan” for a
larger boat, in which to continue his journey ; and I

had the woe unutterable of seeing my god-child and

BEAR RIVER. 283

favourite loaded to the gunwale with fish, which
exhaled any other than pleasing odours, being, in
fact, fish very much out of water.

The mouth of Bear River, which is the outlet to
Bear Lake, and whose crystal waters contrasted
strongly with the turbid stream of the Mackenzie,
was passed on the 5th; also, an hour or two later,
some remarkable burning banks, which sent up
numerous columns of smoke, but at present emitted
no flame. The morning of the 6th was bitterly cold ;
a piercing wind chilled us throughout, and_ frost
gathered on our hair and beards. We reached Fort
Norman about noon, and were kindly received by
Mr. H. E. Mac Kenzie, the gentleman in charge of
the post, to whom I made known the reasons of our
visit. From him I learned that Mr..Pullen had safely
arrived here about a fortnight since, and proceeded
onwards with his party to Fort Simpson, the head-
quarters of the district, where he would be accom-
modated for the winter.

wo days after our arrival here, the guides who
had escorted Mr. Pullen to Fort Simpson, touched on
their return ; and I learnt that he had remained there
with two men only, the rest of his party being
despatched to a fishing-station, on Great Slave Lake,

where they would winter. Although it was not correct

284 FORT NORMAN.

that there was ample maintenance for my party at
Fort Norman during the winter, I decided, for various
reasons, of which the lateness of the season was the
most prominent, on proceeding no farther until the
spring, as I found that Bear Lake would afford my
party the same subsistence as they would have on
the Great Slave Lake. On learning my resolve,
Mr. Mac Kenzie kindly assisted to the best of his
power in rendering our sojourn as comfortable as
might be: we were supplied with additional blankets,
which had now become highly necessary, and sundry
other articles of wearing apparel, of which all stood
much in need. My condition was as little enviable
as that of the others, as I quitted the “Plover” in
the expectation of being absent about a month only,
and had not, therefore, provided a varied wardrobe
nor many other conveniences.

During more than a month’s stay at Fort Norman,
rendered necessary by the state of the ice, which
prevented the journey to Bear Lake, not much of
incident occurred. The seamen, unaccustomed to the
peculiar fare of this region, made many wry faces
when presented, as a treat, with the carcase of a
beaver. One expressed his very strong conviction
that a cat would be preferable, and various other

facetious remarks were made. These objections were

HOSPITALITY OF MR. MACKENZIE. 285

really rather unreasonable, for beaver meat is generally
esteemed a delicacy, though possessing a peculiar
flavour. I, at any rate, allowed myself no such foolish
qualms, considering it preferable to my repasts of seal
and whale-flesh among the Tuski.

Frost had now set in permanently, and ice com-
menced to drift in the Mackenzie towards the end of
the month, increasing day by day, and before the Ist
of November all but the main channel had frozen up.
We had little now to amuse or enliven, unless it was
created by ourselves. Fortunately a great treasure
was ours in the amusement afforded by a very good
violin belonging to Mr. Mac Kenzie ; and we were
thus enabled to have many a merry dance. Nor were
the pleasures of conversation altogether unprofitable.
I never tired of asking questions respecting the
country and tribes we had newly entered upon, and
gained much information from the intelligent gentle-
man with whom I was located. Rich was he in store
of Indian legends, and no niggard in imparting his
knowledge.

The following is one among the many tales with
which he whiled away the weary moments. I have
made a few slight alterations from his text, which was
given as narrated by the Salteaux tribe of Indians, in

communication with whom Mr. Mac Kenzie passed

286 INDIAN LEGEND

much of his early life. The vague veil of legendary
lore has been thrown over stories of this kind, and
much allowance should be made for the simple nature
of the Indian, who does not believe all implicitly, but
apparently likes to have a reason for everything ; and
where his knowledge ends, calls in the marvellous to

his aid.

THE INDIAN LEGEND OF THE DELUGE AND SUBSEQUENT
REPRODUCTION OF THE UNIVERSE.

Once upon a time lived Indians, among whom
dwelt Wis-kay-tchach, a great medicine man. . With
them were also a Wolf and his two sons, who, in the
early state of nature supposed to be alluded to, were
on a footing of intimacy with human bipeds. Indeed,
Wis-kay-tchach called the old wolf his brother, and
the young ones his nephews; for he recognised all
animals as his relations. In the winter time-the whole
party began to starve; and, for the purpose of seeking
food, the parent wolf announced his intention of
separating from the band with his children, upon
which Wis volunteered his company. Off they set
accordingly, and shortly came upon the track of a
moose. “ Here let you and I halt and smoke,” says
the old Wolf, “while my sons pursue and catch the

moose.” After a time, the young ones not returning,

OF THE DELUGE. 287

Wis and Wolf set off after them, and presently
found blood upon the snow, by which they knew that
the moose was killed. Soon they reached the young
wolves ; but no moose was to be seen, the cubs lying
panting for breath with distended stomachs, for they
had eaten up the whole moose.

They told Wis to make a fire; but he wanted
to know why he should do this, as they had eaten all.
“Never mind,” said they ; “make a fire,’ which he
at last proceeded to do; and, on returning to them,
found the whole of the moose restored, and already
quartered and cut up. The young fellows divided
the spoil into four portions; but one retamed the
tongue, and the other the mouffle,* which are the chief
delicacies of the animal. Wis was not pleased at
this, and grumbled greatly ; and when they had well
teased him, which was why they withheld these parts,
they gave them up to the gourmand. Before long,
the provision was exhausted, upon which one of the
young wolves said he was gomg to make marrow-fat,
which is done by breaking up the bones very small,
and boiling them for a considerable time, when they
yield a very pure and rich fat, preferable to any other.
He told the rest to lie down, and not to look at his

* The upper lip, or moufile of this animal is elongated and cartilaginous ;

it will boil down into a perfect jelly, and is deservedly much prized as a
delicacy.

288 INDIAN LEGEND

proceedings, lest a bone should fly in their eyes.
They did so; but Wis presently gets curious,
takes a sly look, and sees the extractor of fat
chumping up the bones in his teeth, and, as fore-
warned, a fragment flies out and strikes him in
the eye, which makes him roar lustily. “Serve you
right!” says the Wolf. ‘ You were looking.” Wis
protested against the accusation; but was never-
theless obliged to put up with his misfortune.
When the other had finished, Wis says it is his turn ;
and, as before, warns the others not to look. He
pounds away vigorously at the bones, and presently
throws one at the young wolf which had punished
him. “ Aha!” says he; “you were looking.” “ No,’
says the brother cub; “it was I who was looking,
and saw you throw the bone at my brother:’’ upon
which they all laughed heartily at Wis, who was caught
out in his tricks. This resource being exhausted, they
again began to starve, and agreed to separate: the
old Wolf going off with one of his sons, leaving Wis
and the other to hunt together, as they would by this
arrangement have more chance for game.

We now lose sight of the old Wolf, and continue
with Wis and his nephew. The latter kills a few deer,
and brings them home in his stomach, disgorging

them as before upon arrival; but at last informs his

OF THE DELUGE. 289

uncle that he cannot catch any more, whereupon
Wis sits up all night making medicine or conjuring.
In the morning he tells his nephew to go a-hunting ;
but to be careful that at every valley, or the least
hollow place he has to pass, he must throw a stick
over before jumping it himself, or else some evil will
certainly befal him. Away goes the hunter ; espies
and pursues a deer, taking care to follow his uncle’s
directions. But, alas! when just up with his prey, a
small hollow intervenes, which he thinks he can jump
easily ; and, attempting it without the usual pre-
caution, goes plump into a river, and is there killed
and devoured by water-lynxes.* After long waiting for
his nephew, Wis set off in search of him, and coming
to the spot whence he had jumped, guessed that he
- ,had neglected his warning, and fallen into the stream.
He observed, on a tree near, a king-fisher staring
fixedly into the water, and asked him what he was
looking at so earnestly. The king-fisher replies that
he is looking at the skin of Wis-kay-tchach’s nephew,
which serves as a door-mat to the dwelling of the water-
lynxes, those animals having devoured him. Wis
calls the bird to him, and begins to comb its head,

and put a ruff about its neck to make a queue for it ;

* My informant did not know what animals were meant by these
“water-lynxes,” but conjectured them to be of fabled origin, created by
the mention of seals, which few of the Indians ever see.

U

290) INDIAN LEGEND

but the bird flew away before this was finished, which
accounts for king-fishers now having only a portion of it
at the back of their heads. The bird would not return,
but tells him that the water-lynxes often go on shore
to lie on the sand ; and that to be revenged, he must
make himself into a stump near, but take care that
he is not pulled down by frogs and snakes, which the
lynxes will be sure to send to try and dislodge him.
Upon this mformation he returns to his camp, and
“makes big medicine ;” and provides all things
which will be needed, of which a /arge canoe, to hold
all the animals that cannot swim, is the principal.
Before daylight, having completed his preparations,
and embarked all the before-mentioned passengers,
he proceeds to the neighbourhood of the lynxes, and
secures his boat behind a poimt of land, then
transforms himself mto a stump, and awaits their
appearance. Presently the black one comes out and
lies down upon the sand, then the grey, and lastly,
the white one which had killed the young wolf, pops
its head out of the water; but espies the stump, and
cries out to his brethren that he “never saw that
before.” ‘They carelessly replied that it must always
have been there; but the wary one still distrusted,
and sent frogs and snakes to try and pull it down.

Wis had a severe struggle to keep himself upright ;

OF THE DELUGE. 291

but survived the trial, and the white lynx, beg now
satisfied, lays itself down upon the sand to repose. Wis
waits a short time ; then, resuming his natural shape,
takes his spear and creeps softly up to the white
lynx. He had been warned by his feathered monitor
to strike at the shadow of the animal, or he would
assuredly fail m his aim; but his eagerness makes
him forget this injunction, and he strikes full at
the animal, and misses him. ‘The creatures rush to
the water; but Wis has yet another chance, and
aiming again, and now at the shadow, desperately
wounds the beast, which, however, escapes with the
rest into the river. Instantly the water begins to boil
and rise, and Wis makes for his boat as fast as he
can. The water continued flowmg, flowing, until
land, trees, and hills were all covered. Wis having
before taken care of all creatures which could not
swim at all, now busied himself picking up those
which were able to swim for a short time.

On his conjuring night everythmg had been pre-
pared for the reproduction of the earth, with one all-
important exception ; it was necessary to have a small
portion of earth to form, as it were, a nucleus for the
new land; and this he set about obtainmg. Tying a
strmg to the leg of a loon, he ordered it to try for

soundings, and to persevere in its descent, even if it
u 2

292 INDIAN LEGEND

should die, for that was of no consequence, as he
could soon restore it to life. Down goes the diver,
and presently the string was not jerked any more; so
Wis pulls up and finds the bird dead: he blows upon
and brings it back to life, and is told that the bottom
was not reached. Next he sends an otter, which is
drawn up in the same plight, and similarly revived,
and whose success is no better than that of the loon.
Now he sends a beaver, which, upon being resus-
citated, reports that it saw the tops of the trees, but
could not sink any deeper. Last of all, Wis ties a
large stone to amusquash, and puts them over: down
goes the rat, and presently the string is slackened ;
Wis hauls up, and finds the little creature dead, but
holding a small quantity of earth in its tiny paws.
He revives the messenger and spreads the earth out to
dry, after which he blows upon it until it swells and
spreads until it is yery big. When he thought it large
enough, a wolf was sent out to try its extent ; but he
soon returned, saying that the world was not large,
whereupon Wis blew away again for a long time ;
then despatched a crow, and as the bird did not
return, Wis concluded that the world was now large
enough for all, and, with the animals, quits the canoe.

All disperse, and Wis in his travels meets a toad,

?

which sings as it goes, “ Nee-shay-woo-shin” (or

OF THE DELUGE. 293

“T rattle”). “What is that you sing?” asks
Wis-kay-tchach. “I sing that I rattle,” answers the
toad. “And what do you sing for?” returns Wis.
“You must know,” replies the toad, “that I am a
Great Medicine, and am now going to extract. the
barb with which that bad man, Wis-kay-tchach,
wounded my grandson, the water-lynx.”’ Wis knocks
the Great Medicine on the head, and skinning him,
assumes the disguise; then trots off to the dwelling
of the water-lynxes, where he is cordially welcomed by
the two unwounded brothers, and conducted to his
victim. He sends the others out of the sick chamber,
as he must “make very strong medicine,” which
their presence will disturb ; they accordingly depart,
and Wis proceeds to push the spear-head farther into,
instead of drawing it out of the wound. Having
thus killed his patient, he retires, and tells the
brothers that they must on no account disturb their
sick relation, as the medicine must have power until
the morrow, and so he departs, throwing off the
disguise when out of sight.

Not long after this period Wis-kay-tchach meets an
old woman, who is peeling willows (to make nets with
the bark), and crying desperately. He asks why she
laments, and the ancient dame replies that she mourns

for her son the water-lynx, which that cruel wretch

294 INDIAN LEGEND

Wis-kay-tchach has murdered; and that they are
about to bury him near, and then abandon the place.
Wis serves the old lady as he did the toad,

’

of ‘big medicine” profession, assumes her dress
and occupation of collecting willow-bark, and howls
away far louder and more dismally than she did, and
in this way returns to the lodge, where, with the
brothers’ aid, the corpse was placed upon a stage
prepared for it; and the fictitious mother tells the
rest to proceed on their journey, as she must remain
to weep, but will presently follow them. So soon as
they are out of sight Wis sets to work to “ make
grease’ from the carcase ; but the sons become tired
of waiting, and send back snakes (which appear to
have been their slaves) to look for their mother.
When they reach Wis he gives them some of the
grease which he has made, and bids them return with
it to the brothers, who thereupon see that they have
been tricked by Wis-kay-tchach, and return to catch
and punish him. Being hard pressed, and meeting
with a badger, he entreats it to dig a hole in the
ground by which he may escape; and promises to
give one of the bladders of grease with which he is
now laden as a reward. The badger digs accordingly ;
and they come up through the ground at a distance

from their pursuers ; but when the animal claims its

OF THE DELUGE. 295

fee, Wis says 1t may consider itself very lucky that he
did not kill it while passing underground. All the
bladders are now emptied into a hollow, and form a
large lake, in which Wis invites all the animals to
come and swim, that they may gather fat: the rabbit
and partridge complain, after the unctuous bath,
that they have gathered too much fat, so Wis cleans
it from them by running his hand over them; and
this is the reason why the rabbit has so little fat upon
the shoulder, and the partridge a small quantity about
the tail.

Although the foregoing and other legends are so
childish, they should nevertheless be presented, as
indications of the simple nature and primitive ideas of
the Indian race. Such stories are recounted in a
monotonous sing-song to the assembled members of a
lodge, and their repetition never tires. The Indian
seldom or never laughs boisterously, appreciation of
the passages considered the most amusing is marked
by a low grunt of approval; and this is particularly
the case where the hero of their tales, which
Mr. Wis-kay-tchach most frequently represents, has
practised or suffered from some act of duplicity; these

appear to tickle the listeners mightily.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Gastronomy.—River Ice.—Trapping.—Start for Great Bear Lake.—Cross
the Mackenzie on the Ice.—Felling trees to encamp.—Raising the
Wind.—Penetrate dense Forests.—Cross Lakes.—Cranberries, &c.—
Indian Hut.—Salmon Trout.—Summary ejectment.—Slave Indians.
—Indian Divorce.—Selling Wives.——Cannibal acquaintance.—Sir J.
Franklin’s Hut.—Dreadful Starvation.—Eating an Orkney man.—Our
Hut.—An airy situation.—Occasional House-warming.—Lots of tin. —
Fish and fish with it—Swamp Tea.—Aurora.—Literary destitution.—
Novel burial of a brother-in-law.

Our diet, since reaching the Mackenzie, was in
strange contrast to English fare, or that, principally of
preserved meats, to which we had been accustomed in
the “Plover.” Dried reindeer or elk-flesh, which
required vigorous mastication, and made the jaws
ache apace; fresh goat, bear, and beaver-meat occa-
sionally ; and during the latter part of our stay at
Fort Norman, meat could only be furnished two days
in the week, with fish the other five; and as the
latter was captured at Bear Lake in the summer and
fall, and remained disembowelled and intact until
used, it was i various stages of excellence, varying

from the slightly-tamted to the absolutely stinking.

GASTRONOMY. 297

But as there was nothing else, we managed to eat it ;
and after all were no worse off than the ancients, who
esteemed asafetida a delicacy when mixed with their
food, except that they fared thus from inclination,
we from necessity ; and this is the case at many of
the posts in the Hudson’s Bay territory, where meat
is not abundant. Flour, bread, and such like, seem
to be considered matters of extreme luxury : a bag of
flour is the entire allowance to some of the officers ;
but this proceeds mainly, I imagine, from the difficulty
of transport through so wild a country and great
distance. I lived with Mr. Mac Kenzie while here,
and fared as he did. We had two meals a day; one
between nine and ten, the other about six. Our bill
of fare was tolerably unvarying: dry meat boiled, or
fish roasted with the scales on, which, from want of
custom I suppose, I found disagreeable when they
got in my mouth; tea, either black or green, as the
packet might happen to be; sugar, and occasionally a
water pancake or fritter;—but these were “like
angels’ visits,” and appreciated accordingly. At first,
I sadly missed a bit of bread ; but habit reconciles one
to everything. For all this, there were occasional
delicacies. Reindeers’ tongues we often tasted; I
need not remark upon their excellence; also beaver

and bear’s meat, which are fat,—the tail of the former

298 RIVER-ICE.

entirely so, and, on first acquaintance, rather too rich
for digestion.

When the ice had so much increased in the river
as to begin to crowd upon the shores, along which
ran a solid edge, we, who were unaccustomed to the
sight, had much interest in watching its course. The
current was very strong, and the sludge was turned
up between the moving and fixed edges, precisely as
a furrow is turned by the plough, while a kind of
hissmg roar, continuous and subdued, proved the
resistance exerted. When the increasing drift re-
tarded the current, the water rose considerably, and a
second crust of ice formed on the shore ledges, and
deceived the unwary when venturing upon it, being
too weak to bear the feet, although snow-shoes,
which embrace a larger surface, will sometimes
enable one to pass on it. As these stations of the
Hudson’s Bay Company are established for the sole
purpose of obtaining furs,—witness its motto, “Pro
pelle cutem,”—no means to that end are neglected.
Mr. Mac Kenzie had three or four traps set, which I
often used to visit, and will tell my fortune on one
of these occasions. Finding the trap had gone from
its place, I had little trouble in discovermg the
direction of its migration; the trail was too well

marked to permit of error, for frozen gouts of blood

TRAPPING. 299

and zigzag lines made by the sharp edges of the iron,
sullied the snow. ‘The track led right across the
frozen branch of the river; arriving on the opposite
bank of which I found a fox caught by the paw in
the trap, which was now entangled in the underwood.
The poor little creature’s eyes glared with its agony ;
it was biting at the branches around, and struggling
desperately ; indeed, it would probably have soon
escaped with the loss of its foot, which held only by a
sinew, the bone being broken, and all else cut through
by the sharp edges of the vice-like trap, much like a
rat-trap or gin, but without teeth, which it had
dragged, as I estimated, about a quarter of a mile.
The sight was sickening, and I hastgned to put it out
of its misery, but broke my first stick, and had to get
one heavier to accomplish the task ; sure am I that
few fair ones who now wear muff and tippet could
resume them without a pang, had they witnessed the
torture of this poor animal.

The ice in the Mackenzie “set fast ” permanently
on the 12th of November, and two days afterwards,
four men of my party—the ice-master being left
behind on account of his frost-bitten feet—three of
the Company’s, two Indians, and myself, started for
our intended quarters on Great Bear Lake. The men

of the Company had each charge of a sledge and

300 THE CAMP.

three dogs, laden with 200 pounds of stores and
provisions ; the Indians led the way on snow-shoes,
and my party—who had not those convenient
appendages—brought up the rear. Our road lay
first across the frozen river, which required much care
and toil, for the ice was jumbled up in chaotic
confusion, presenting sharp points and edges which
hurt the feet, and many irregular masses projecting
twelve or fifteen feet from the surface. After crossing
the river, and ascending the steep banks upon the
opposite side, we entered upon dense woods, and
continued until sunset, when a halt was made for the
night, and all set about preparing the encampment.
A spot was chosep where dead trees abounded, which
some proceeded to fell, others cleared the snow from
a space, using their snow-shoes as shovels: some cut
down small pines, of which the brush was laid down
to serve as the floor of the camp, and the stems were
arranged for shelter at the back and sides; with our
large party, two compartments were necessary, a heap
of blazing logs lymg between them; and when all
was completed, a very snug, but of course airy,
resting-place invited us to repose, which after a hearty
supper of pemmican was responded to by all. So
long as the big fire blazed away merrily, the cold did

not touch one greatly, but by-and-by, when all were

RAISING THE WIND. 301

wrapped in slumber, the flames gradually decreased,
and when I awoke benumbed all over, and my feet,
oh! so cold! nought was in the place of the red pile
I last looked upon but a few calcined log ends and a
heap of smouldering ashes ; so to work I set with a
will, carried more logs to their destruction, collected
the burnt ends, raked the ashes together, and blew
right earnestly until a ruddy blaze appeared; then
heaping on more logs, and becoming thoroughly
warmed, I once more lay down to sleep, my com-
panions dozing, snoring, growling, and starting, m
happy unconsciousness of my proceedings.

We were up and afoot each day about daylight,
and encamped, as described, at sunset; our fare was
pemmican uncooked, and although ‘not very enticing
in flavour, it is In my opinion the finest and most
convenient sustenance one can carry: we consumed
upon the average about two pounds per day, having
nothing else but a little cocoa in the morning, and we
never felt hungry or weak. Our road lay through
dense forests, across numerous lakes and one or two
small rivers, all now frozen over and covered with
snow ; the path is marked in woods by “ blazing ”
large trees and breaking down small ones, and when
about to cross lakes, travellers carry branches and

tops of small trees and stick them in the snow at

302 SLAVE INDIANS.

intervals. We saw numerous tracks of rabbits,
martens, foxes, and others, but few of deer, which do
not abound here as elsewhere. By digging under the
snow, cranberries were obtained ; and on bushes grew
berries of a sharp acid, which were hard frozen, and
melted away in the mouth, contrasting pleasantly with
the seeds of the wild rose, which were sweetness
itself.

This journey occupied six days ; in the evening of
the 19th we reached our destined habitation, wherein
were now comfortably located an Indian with his
wife and family, little expecting, good souls! such
unseasonable mtrusion. We supped off some delicious
salmon-trout caught in Bear Lake, and were glad to
go to repose after our fatiguing trip.

A few days sufficed to settle us imto a regular
mode of life: two of the Company’s men returned to
Fort Norman; the other, with the old Indian, set
nets and hooks under the ice in Bear Lake ; our rude
hut was thoroughly cleansed, and put to rights; and
arrangements made for the due performance of such
shght duties as were necessary. Wood had to be
cut regularly for fuel ; a hole made, and kept open in
the ice of the lake for water ; and, more than all, the
grand duties of the kitchen required much considera-

tion, for the unity of material needed an exercise of

SELLING A WIFE. 303

great ingenuity to obtain some variety. The Indians
whom we had. lately so unceremoniously dispossessed
of their habitation, speedily constructed a good winter
lodge at a short distance, and departed thither, bag
and baggage. It was painful to see the load the
women were made to carry; but it is the common
practice, and said to be the reason why the tribe we
were now among are called “Slave Indians.” With
them, if a man desire to despoil his neighbour of his
wife, a trial of strength, of a curious nature, ensues :
they seize each other by the hair, which is worn long
and flowing, and thus strive for the mastery, until
one or another cries “ peccavi.”” Should the victor be
the envious man, he has to pay a certain number of
skins for the husband-changing woman, who has
herself no voice in the matter, but is handed over like
any other piece of goods, and generally with the same
unconcern. ‘There’s a pretty story for you, ladies!
How would you like such arrangements in our land
of a queen? ‘The old Indian who assisted the fisher-
man was too remarkable a character to pass un-
mentioned. During periods of general starvation,
which are unfortunately but too frequent in this
region, he had devoured eleven or thirteen persons,
among whom (charity begins at home) were, I believe,

his parents, one wife, and the children of two. He

304 DREADFUL STATE OF STARVATION.

had now only one son left, a very fine boy, named
Betshi, of whom he was doatingly fond, and certainly
would not be likely to make a meal of him until all
other relations and friends were disposed of. This
old fellow was one of Sir J. Franklin’s hunters, when
he wintered here in 1826. I visited the site of his
dwelling, almost within a stone’s throw of our own
rude hut; but a shapeless mass of rubbish, and a few
stones still remaining of some of the chimneys, were all
to be seen of his resting-place ; and I could not help
thinking how busy Time had been with both. This
building must have been large; the traces of eleven
chimneys mark its extent: it was tenanted by about
forty persons, including the people of the North-west
Fur-trading Company. Dr., now Sir John, Richardson,
was at first here with Sir John Franklin; but the
quantity of fish caught being insufficient for the
maintenance of all, he removed with a party to a
distance along the lake. Their resting-poit has ever
since been called Richardson’s Fishery.

The number of victims to starvation in this country
has been very great. In 1845 (?) the Company’s
people at Fort Good Hope were without subsistence,
and the Indians dying in crowds. The gentleman in
charge of the station at that time heard one night the

blows of the axe in the lodges near the Fort, by which

CANNIBALISM. 305

the weaker were killed, to be devoured. The
Express-men, one Scotch, the other a native of
Orkney, who were proceeding with letters to the
post on the Peel River, were met by a party of
starving Indians, who stole upon them at night,
murdered and ate them and their provisions, and, as
report goes, were m their turn slaughtered and
devoured.

The commodious residence in which we were
located deserves description, if only as a new

proof that

“Man wants but little here below.”

It consisted of a solitary apartment, twenty by
eighteen feet ; was constructed of roughly-hewn pine-
logs of large dimensions, the interstices being
plastered with mud, which I must remark, by the
by, was the universal substitute for mortar in the
Mackenzie River and adjacent districts. The two
casements were formed by tightly-stretched sheets of
semilucent parchment, which, where imperfect, were
repaired with scraps of foolscap; the light admitted
thereby was well suited for weak eyes; the door had
been made of green wood, and its parts had shrunk
widely asunder; the openings thus formed were
stuffed with lynx-skin, which gave it a very motley

appearance. ‘The roof was flat, of sticks and moss, in

x

306 OUR DOMESTIC ARRANGEMENTS.

layers ; these being very dry, caught fire three or four
times during our stay, and caused much trouble, and
danger of losing our dwelling, which, rough though it

was, we should sadly have missed at this season.

NEW FORT FRANKLIN,

No pampered luxury was evidenced in the nature and
arrangement of the furniture: one treble, two
double, and one single bedstead, of workmanship
curious as elegant, being all the unaided product of
the axe, stools of massive condition, each formed

from a single block, and a table, which ever

GOODS AND CHATTELS. 307

perversely declined to repose upon more than two legs
at a time, and whose wrinkled old face displayed a
perpetual grin as if in mockery at our efforts, con-
stituted the major part of the property ; the rest of
the chattels were fishing-nets and lines, blankets,
ancient garments, and a most unique collection of
cooking utensils: four tin plates, one tin drinking
cup, a bouilli tin for the same purpose, a fork, and
two spoons of silver, and two of native horn, one of
which from its antiquity might have belonged to
Nebuchadnezzar, two kettles for fish, a coffee-pot for
tea, and two pemmican tins for pitchers close the
catalogue; a tin saw, an auger, and sundry axes
complete the tale of our riches : and to us important
they were.

Of food the variety was not great so far as kind
was concerned, but then we made amends for this in
the modes of preparation. Thus, although we had
only a species of salmon-trout occasionally, and a kind
of herring always, we had boiled fish and roasted fish,
dried fish and split fish, smoked fish and cured fish,
fish soups, fish cakes, and fish, fish, fish, in every
phase we could invent, one only excepted, of which
we had a sufficiency while at Fort Norman.

Mr. Mac Kenzie had, from his scanty store, presented

me with two pounds of tea, and twelve of sugar ; these

x2>

308 GASTRONOMY.

supplied us with a treat for a few Sundays, but on
their expenditure we had to turn to the limpid waters
of Bear Lake to quench thirst ; and though they were
pure as seraph’s tears, and bright as the eyes of
loveliness, we had fair experience of the truthful
adage, “too much of a good thing,” &c. As may be
supposed fish and water did not materially conduce
to an increase of health or endurance; our complexions
became colourless and transparent, and the tone of
the digestive organs weakened; one or two of us
were frequently at or directly after a meal seized with
an involuntary nausea, the stomach peremptorily
rejecting the offered aliment. There was only one,
even distant, substitute for the beverages we had
ever been accustomed to; this was made by boiling
the plant called Swamp tea, which grows plentifully
throughout North America—leaves, stalks, and all—
in water, and drinking the infusion; it has a strong
bitter taste, liked by few, but it is, I believe, a fine
tonic, and I tried to fancy I hked it, possibly because
there was nothing else.

I have purposely avoided in my _ narrative all
scientific details; and have, therefore, hitherto left
unnoticed the frequent occurrence of the Aurora
Borealis, the most gorgeous as well as most wonderful

of northern, and perhaps of any other phenomena :

AURORA BOREALIS. 309

let it not be imagined, nevertheless, that these
splendid spectacles were disregarded; my journal
voluminously records their appearance, but I shall
here only introduce one extract as a type of the
rest :—

“On the 9th of December, at about seven, with
a cloudless sky, Aurora appeared,—first forming in
an arch from N.N.E. to N.N.W.,—but later, about
nine, dispersed into broken vertical rays, coruscating
towards the zenith. Eleven p.m. I have just come in
from viewing the Aurora, which now presents a
gorgeous spectacle; it has shifted from its first
positions, and now covers the southern half of the
heavens.

“Orion bears about $.8.W., and on each side of that
constellation to about forty-five degrees, rays are con-
verging nearly to the zenith; they are perfectly regular
in form and distance, and remind me of the lines of
longitude upon a globe, like which also they are cut
just below the zenith. Around and about them are
wreaths and scrolls, lines and curves, masses and
skirmishers of the luminous fluid, never still for an
instant, but waving, rolling, advancing and retiring,
folding and unfolding, fast and changeful as thought
can fly; never twice the same, but like the fickle

kaleidoscope, ever presenting some new appearance,

310 AURORA BOREALIS.

beautiful and wondrous as those already seen and
vanished.”’

As the heavy curtain of a theatre is drawn up or
let down, so are some of the flying lmes expanding
and contracting incessantly; others, again, seem
mighty breakers, curling and turning under and
about. There was one large mass, a perfect blaze of
light, which seemed to be not twenty feet above me ;
others with less body appearing far, far away. On
this occasion I fancied that I eard the Aurora, and
so much was judgment misled by imagination, that
I thought I saw the masses vibrating after contact,
when, in fact, the noise I heard was indubitably
produced by the cracking of the ice on the lake, as I
afterwards became assured of.

On some occasions all the colours of the rambow
were displayed by turns, each visible but for an
instant, then succeeded by another hue; vast
uregular ever-changing fringe-like lines,—at one
moment of an exquisite violet, the next of a grass-
green tint,—engaged and delighted the eye: those
above-named were the predominating colours, but all
others, im every variety of shade and_ brilliancy,
were evolved. A scene of sublime and awful
magnificence.

We had little durmg our weary sojourn in this

WANT OF AMUSEMENTS. 311

miserable log-hut, which was now our home, to
enliven or beguile its tedium. With scanty daylight,
and neither oil nor candle, the only hght we had for
the greater portion of each twenty-four hours was
that of the log fire which burned in one corner of
the hovel. No books, not even a newspaper, to read
and re-spell over, but I managed to obtain ink, pens,
and paper, and in addition to keepmg a voluminous
journal of all, to the most trifling, occurrences,
instituted a school for the seamen, one or two of
whom improved considerably, though ours was
literally the pursuit of knowledge under difficulties.
The preparation of our meagre fare, cutting and
bringing home fuel, and fetching water from the
lake, did not fill up a third part of the time ; birds
or other game there were none, with the exception of
an occasional white partridge or ptarmigan: this
period was therefore, from its lack of occupation,
a most dismal one, and any new idea for employment
or amusement was hailed with delight. The old
Indian who assisted the fisherman, and was with his
son domiciled in the hut, made occasional trips mn
search of deer and beaver, and to set traps for
martens, foxes, and wolverines—but his success was
almost negative; a few martens, a beaver, and one or

two rabbits were his only prizes, though he was

312 SCARCITY OF EOOD.

frequently several days absent with only a scanty
supply of food, and on one occasion there was quite a
divided house on the question whether he had killed
and feasted on the Indian who accompanied him, as
he was accustomed to such proceedings. ‘The fisher-
man told me that he had once visited Fort Norman,
at- a period of starvation, to solicit food ; and had, at
the same time, the hands of his brother-in-law in_ his
game-bag, having already otherwise entombed the

remainder of his respected relation.

CHAPTER XIX.

Christmas festivities.—Parhelia.—Indian exaggeration.—A regular clipper.
—Sledging to Fort Norman.—Starving Indians.—Indian Theology.—
Medicine Men.—Vapour Bath.—Heating water.—A Drone.—Diminu-
tion of Infanticide.—Making Medicine.—Pulling a-head.—Spring sets
in.—Woodpeckers—An Indian death.—Return to New Fort Franklin.
—Ravenous petty larceny.— Primitive notions.— Floods.—Doctor Rae.
—Start for Fort Simpson.—Hydrodynamic forces.—Bears.—Indian
Dance.—A Tale of Horror.

CuristTMAs arrived, and although prisoners m so
barbarous a place at this season of rejoicing, we did
not let it pass over without notice. I had reserved a
few pounds of preserved meats, with one or two other
relics of luxury, and we therefore, in comparison—by
which woes and delights are ever measured—feasted
royally. Green tea and pemmican, soup, parsnips
and beef; behold a repast for princes. Ours was.
quite a picnic—the rugged floor of the den served at
once for table and chairs, the place of soup-plates was
supplied by preserved-meat tins, spoons by their tops,
whose jagged edges were an exciting novelty, and we

were merry cnough, by comparison, again.

314 PARHELIA.

The cold was at times very severe; our breath,
congealing as it passed the ear, became audible in a
sharp whirr, like a small escape of steam, and flannel
froze so rigidly that it could be droken asunder like a
brittle stick: the mside of our dwelling, particularly
at the windows, was encrusted with a thick coating
of rime, formed by the congelation of breath and other
vapour.

February was mild even to occasional thaws, and
this period was prolific im parhelia, haloes, &e.
We saw one such very curious “child of mist”
which I think worthy of mention. Around the
moon was a vertical halo, slightly flattened on
the upper part, of about forty degrees diameter.
On each side of the moon at the outer edges of
the rmg was a mock or false moon, tolerably well
defined, and throwing a ray of light to the eastward.
From these extended a contmuous and_ horizontal
halo at about thirty-five degrees elevation, m parts
very bright; and at W. by S. another mock-moon
was presented in it, also throwing a light to the east-
ward, but downwards. ‘The sky was much brightened
under the vertical rmg; above it was misty, the
horizon clear and the wind gentle from west.
Our old Indian (the man-eater) prognosticated

great cold and strong winds from this appearance.

INDIAN EXAGGERATION. 315

There are several “articles of belief” in meteor-
ological signs among the Indians and whites who
have sojourned long in these regions. For instance,
if January be fine or cold, March may be looked for
as the reverse, and vice versa; if, in display of
parhelia, the mock-sun is seen to the westward of
the true, or, should there be one on each side,
if the western sun be last to fade, bad weather is
sure to ensue.

The Indians have a sad character for exaggera-
tion. Some who passed our quarters on return
from Fort Norman brought doleful news of death
and starvation.‘ An Indian man and woman had
been frozen to death near Fort Norman; many were
dying of starvation, and the Fort was full of people
im a like condition.” Fortunately Mr. MacKenzie
had written a note by them which I received next
day, and found that a few had reached Fort Norman
without food; a woman had died from extreme old
age and two boys from sickness, upon which founda-
tion their tale had been built up. There was little
danger of starvation either to us or the Indians, while
the supply of fish remained so plentiful. We had
used four small nets from the end of November,
and found at the end of February, that we had

eighteen hundred fish “en cache ;’’ our consumption,

316 A REGULAR CLIPPER.

for dogs and all included, having been about fifty a day.
‘wo men arriving from Fort Norman for a supply of
fresh fish, those in store having become really too
gamy, I resolved to return with them, bemg desirous
to hear from Mr. Pullen to whom I had written by
the winter express. With a latent yearning after
dandyism which was, it must be owned, rather out
of place, I desired to have my hair cut, and this
operation was performed by means of a knife and a
board, for scissors were wanting ; the result exceeded
that of parish barbers, who clip the crowns of
charity children by contract and the hundred. On
the 21st of February, at sunrise, the two men of
the Fort and myself started from ‘‘ New Fort Franklin”
(the title by which our palatial residence was. digni-
fied) each driving a dog-sledge laden in all with
upwards of six hundred fish. After crossmg Bear
Lake and following the trail mto the woods on the
opposite shore, we encountered two Indians who said
that they were starving; we gave a fish to each as
a stay until they should reach the lake. An hour
later we met another whose tale and supply were
as before. Four or five hours after, we found two
women with each a couple of children, encamped by
the wayside; they also clamorously assailed us for

rehef and received some fish.

INDIAN RELIGION. oe

Great is the aid of snow-shoes ; the journey which
in November occupied my party six days was
now accomplished easily in three. I remained with
Mr. MacKenzie until the arrival of the return express
men from Fort Simpson, who brought letters from
Mr. Pullen and the gentleman of the station, by which
we learned all were well. My companion again
enlivened me with much interesting conversation
respecting the Indians, and I put much reliance in
his information as his acquaintance with them was
very extensive and familiar. They have an idea
of a supreme being but do not worship him,
and have an evil spirit, but it is doubtful whether
they maintained this view until the advent of the
whites. There are also numerous ideal personages
who are supposed either to have performed super-
human works (as Wiskaytchach and his reproduction
of the world after the flood), or who had or have
some influential power over them. But although
they put great faith in the legendary lore, the
heroes are regarded with little reverence or awe.
The medicine-men or conjurors have immense power
among these dwellers in moral darkness; they are
considered almost infallible, and if their predictions
fail, the non-success is attributed to some defect in

the medicine, either that it was not strong enough,

318 “ MEDICINE-MEN.”

or that some form was omitted in its preparation.
The office seems to be druidical in its tendency ;
much has to be gone through by the neophyte
before he can be initiated into its mysteries, which
are conducted with much secresy. It is certainly an
important and valuable office; none but the privi-
leged can “make medicine or venture to predict ;”
ridicule and failure would be sure to follow such
attempt. These are the doctors of the tribes; they
are acquaimted with many herbal and mineral reme-
dies, among which are emetics, and cures for
spasms, also plants for staunching blood, and of
healing properties. A favourite prescription is the use of
the vapour-bath, and from my slight knowledge of their
habits, I should think that many of their disorders
may be removed by aqueous visitation.

The patient is placed in a tightly closed tent,
wherein are heated stones upon which water is
thrown; after remaining in the bath for awhile it
is not unusual to dash right into the ice-cold
streams; nor does this seem to do any harm.
Singing is much practised, but it is, though varied,
of a very humdrum nature. I heard a good deal
of this by our old friend at Bear Lake ;—some-
times he sang or droned for singing’s sake; at others

his lay was in a tone of lament for the dusky

DECREASE OF INFANTICIDE. 319

dames and their little ones, whose untimely fate
himself had hastened, and then he succeeded in
being very dismal. When he feasted well or had
been fortunate in his trapping results, he sang in
notes of rejoicing, and that his good luck might
be repeated, and sometimes he certainly sang de-
votionally, but to what power I am quite in the
dark. ‘Talking of the dark, that was his favourite
time for this sort of devotional exercise: I have
often been awakened im the dead hour, by the
not very musical emanations of the old gentleman,
who when his solo was concluded, generally rose
and took an extensive smoke, besides alleviating
an unfortunate irritation of the skin which occurs
among Indians, nearly as much as with the Tuski,
and from the same causes.

Infanticide, which was at no distant period uni-
versally prevalent as regarded the female’ children,
appears to have much diminished ; the “Slaves” have
the worst character for this crime, which it is to
be hoped will soon cease entirely.

The medicine-men must be tolerably clever
fellows if their aptitude reach the pitch for which
they have credit. When one is about to conjure,
a tent is constructed of poles, inclmmg to each

other at the top, which are encircled by hoops at

320 “MAKING MEDICINE.”

different heights, and the whole is then covered
with leather, when it presents a shape lke the
frustum of a sugar-loaf. The top is open, and to
the upper hoop is stitched a blanket, which falls
down as a funnel: this is to admit the spirits
which are evoked, but I could not learn what. were
their attributes, except that there is one which
seems to have power over the rest, is an_ evil
being, and puts an end to the proceedings by
appearing without summons and driving off the
other creatures of air. The medicine-man goes into
the tent before the skin covering is finally sewn on,
and begins to sing away at a great rate, the house
at the same time shaking with violence, so much
so as sometimes to fall down ; this, it is supposed, is
done by the spirits, and certainly the conjurors must
be very expert: im some instances they have per-
mitted themselves to be bound hand and _ foot,
wrapped in a net. and thus thrown into the tent, which
has immediately began to shake, and in a very: brief
space the net and bonds were ejected from the tent
without a knot having been untied. For.their enemies
they are said'to possess terrible medicines, the effect
of one being to distort the features to one side—
probably paralysis by. poison—of another, to render the

skin perfectly blue, lke the result of nitrate of silver.

ae
THE WARRIORS ORDEAL, 321

Of war and its practices I did not hear a great
deal, but learned that the ordeal previous to ad-
mission aS a warrior in some tribes still rules;
the young men of the Dahcotah or Sioux tribes must
be able to bear torture without flinching before they
can be allowed to serve. One trial consists in drag-
ging a buffalo’s head round the camp by a cord thrust
through the muscles at the hips.

April brought the first signs of spring, and a
warm south wind occasionally, and speedily diminished
the snow, which was about four feet deep ; the birds
appeared from the woods, into whose recesses they
had retired for shelter durmg the extreme cold, and
shrubs became pliant during noonday, some even
showing signs of vegetation. arly in the month
two Indian boys came from Bear Lake bringing me
intelligence that some of the seamen were attacked
with illness, and that one of the Indian women, whom
we had relieved with fish on our journey hither, had
died from the effects of exposure and famine. Of
course I hastened to visit the party, and found the
trip to Bear Lake full of imterest in the comparisons
to be drawn betwixt winter and dawning spring.
The snow had fallen from the trees, and left many
pointed surfaces of rock or earth uncovered ; numbers

of wood-peckers maintained a continual tapping, for

¥

322 AN ACCIDENT.

under the bark of decayed pines they find abundance
of worms: some trees were curiously marked by their
bills, scarcely an inch of their surfaces being left
untouched. During the early part of the day we
walked without snow-shoes, a good crust having
formed on the ice, but the noonday sun in softening
the track compelled their adoption. I had the
misfortune to cut my foot severely with an axe the
morning after we started, and only continued the
journey as a lesser evil than those of delaymg my
companions by their return with me, or retracing my
steps alone, which, in case of great loss of blood or
other accident, might be of fatal consequence. So we
bandaged up the wound, and I donned my mocassin,
determined to make light of the disaster, although
blood welled from the gash, and, penetrating through
blanket-socks and mocassins, congealed upon the
snow-shoe. I suffered long and severely by this
accident, the considerable walking (above a hundred
miles) irritated the wound, and on the return journey
to Fort Norman the snow had so much melted that
we had frequently to march ankle or even knee deep
in ice water; this of course was very bad, and for
some time nothing would excite the hurt to sensation.

On arrival at New Fort Franklin, I found several of

the party very unwell, and all pale and delicate-

Bah ee

THE INDIAN WOMAN’S DEATH, 323

looking,—no doubt, m consequence of their uniform
diet of fish, to which I had now however brought a
most welcome change in the shape of a large case of
pemmican. ‘The tale we had heard of the Indian
woman was true. After parting with us on the day
when we had given her and others some fish, she had
arrived on the shore of Bear Lake, about four miles
from the hut, and encamped there with several other
Indians for about three weeks: during this time she
became very ill, and, being unable to accompany her
Jriends, was deserted by them—her father and brothers
among the rest, the latter telling her that they left
her there to die. Some of the women who had been
encamped with her, had been employed to net snow-
shoes for my party, and the Indian boy going over to
fetch some which had been left, found the poor
creature, with her two little ones, alone, without either
fire or food. Le Canard, alias the Cannibal, was
immediately despatched to help her over to the hut,
and was obliged to drag her across the lake on his
snow-shoes, as she was perfectly helpless. The party
then built her a small lodge, and did all in their
power to help her; they cut wood for her fire and
prepared her food, using a case of concentrated gravy-
soup which I had always reserved for an occasion of

illness of any of the party. Their cares, however,

Weg

324 RETURN TO FORT NORMAN.

were unavailing ; in ten days she died, after frequently
asking for “ Be-cah-dre-ahzee,” or the “little Master,”
meaning myself, whom she well recollected. The
Indians who were near, deserted the locality imme-
diately on her decease ; and the men, headed by 'Taylor
the fisherman, a good-hearted and dry specimen of
the Orkney Islands, who had been fourteen years in
the country, proceeded to make a “cache” on the
brow of the hill behind the hut, wherem they
deposited the emaciated corpse, and, as customary,
the few articles she possessed. The worthy fellows
now took the children under their care ; the poor little
creatures had been frightfully burned, having several
times fallen into the fire, and from their tender age
been unable to extricate themselves; but they were
with attention restored, and the little girl was
consigned to an Indian family, the boy remaining
with the men until their departure.* After a stay of
two days, I started on return to Fort Norman, the
journey occupying this time only two and a half days
with loaded sledges. We had hidden some dried
meat in the snow on our journey to the lake, but the
ravens had discovered and appropriated it ; they are

* T have since learned with great regret that these children perished in
the winter of 1851-2, during a scarcity of provision. This sad occurrence

was prognosticated at the time of my visit by Le Canard, who certainly
was well qualified to give an opinion on this subject.

REJOINED BY THE BEAR LAKE PARTY. 329

most daring and clever pilferers. My companions
were two men of Fort Norman, both half castes : one
of them belonged to the Colony founded by Lord
Selkirk on the Red River, and his ideas of highly
civilised life were rather primitive, rendering our
conversations sufficiently amusing to me in conse-
quence; among other questions propounded were
whether our gracious Queen ever visited poor people,
and if all the soldiers lived im the palace with her
Majesty.

Snow-birds were seen on the 24th of April, the
first and early arrivals of migrating birds : some which
were shot were very fat; their condition is considered
a criterion of that of the wild-fowl. Ducks arrived
on the 4th of May; geese and swans later: they
were all im very fair condition, and a truly welcome
addition to our meagre fare.

The party which had remamed at Bear Lake
rejomed me on the 8th of May, by which time the
snow had greatly decreased, and much water appeared
upon the river-ice; and on the 13th the ice com-
menced to break up and pass down: there were,
however, many stoppages by which the current was
impeded to such an extent that the river rose about
five and twenty feet, and flooded the country; the

fort was surrounded with water, and we brought our

326 VISIT FROM DR. JOHN RAE.

boat into the court-yard to the doors of the dwellings ;
all the fences and much fuel were carried off, and large
masses of ice floated around, some of which remained
when the obstruction of the channel was removed and
the river had free passage again; had the water con-
tinued to rise much longer the fort would probably
have been carried off.* On the 22nd, Doctor
John Rae, the well-known Arctic voyager, at that
time in charge of the Mackenzie River District,
came down from Fort Simpson on his way to Fort
Good Hope, which is visited every year, on the
breaking up of the ice, by the Head of the District.
I cannot forbear to offer a tribute to his courteous
and delicate attention; further acquaintance engend-
ered sentiments of great esteem for his many excellent
qualities. On the 24th, my party started for Fort
Simpson, and we rejoined Mr. Pullen at that place
on the Ist of June.

We noted on the journey the enormous force
exerted by the river when obstructed in its passage
on the disruption of the ice: it had in many places
risen to a great height, and here enormous masses and

great quantities of ice had been deposited along the

banks. Where abrupt points occurred it was piled to .

* This actually happened next year, 1851, nearly everything being swept
away, and the station is now removed to the bank of Bear River.

args A. he +
on PER REE Leite i a

DANCE OF THE SLAVE INDIANS. oer

the height frequently of forty or fifty feet. We espied
one or two bears, but did not kill any ; a very nice
chance was lost by my lending an Indian my double-
barrel to go in chase: he got within shot of Mr. Bruin,
and pulled the trigger, but the gun was at half-cock
only, and he either feared or did not know how to cock
it, and came back with a very blank visage, whose
aspect was not improved by our merriment at his
stupidity.

We were very glad to reach this place, where, for
the first time since separating from Mr. Pullen (a
period of ten months), we enjoyed the luxury of a
comfortable bed, having scarcely ever during that
time taken off our clothes for nightly repose. I saw
here a dance of the Slave Indians, a most uninterest-
ing spectacle, although there were many performers.
The dancers moved round and round in acircle, their
feet shuffling along in the “take close order” style ;
some moved their feet only, others swayed their bodies
and arms to and fro, and one or two waved eagles’
wings above their heads ; several women were among
the performers; they were, if possible, less animated
than the men. All kept up a monotonous chant of the
most dismal tendency—‘he he, he, he; ha ha; he he;
ho ho, ho ho; he, he, he,” &c., which was their only

music, and the whole proceeding was so very “slow,”

328 PELLY BANKS STATION.

that it soon exhausted my small stock of patience, and
I departed, but understood that the amusement was
continued for several hours, probably for the sake of
exercise.

On the 8th of June, three gentlemen of the company
arrived from the posts on the West Branch or Liard
River, which falls into the Mackenzie just above
Fort Simpson. One of these, a Mr. P., had suffered
almost incredible privations during the past winter,
the two men who were with him having died from
starvation. ‘The details are heartrending, horrible,
and even revolting. .

Pelly Banks station, where the catastrophe occurred,
is situated upon the Pelly river, about 1000 miles
distant from Fort Simpson. The Peliy joms the
Lewis at Fort Selkirk, 310 miles from Pelly Banks,
the united stream forming the river Youcon. In the
spring of 1848, Mr. P. was ordered to this post, and
remained at that or the Francis Lake station close to it
during the summer with two men, when they often
had a scarcity of food, but endured no severe privation.
Mr. O’Brien arrived at Frances Lake about the middle
of October, 1851, having been obliged to send thirteen
men ina boat, out of eighteen men and two boats, back
to head-quarters in consequence of the lateness of the

season and state of the waters. ‘here were now seven

SHORT COMMONS. 329

men and two officers at the post, with scarcely any food
coming in, and they were reduced to eating moose,
rein-deer, bear, and beaver skins ; half a moose skin
being the allowance for six men for one day. It may
be considered how little food they had, from the fact
that Mr. O’Brien started in the spring of 1849 for
Fort Halkett, 410 miles distant, with five men and
only four days’ provision, eking out the remainder of
their subsistence by their guns. During the following
summer Mr. P., with two white men and an
engaged Indian, managed to live tolerably on the
produce of their guns and nets; but at the latter end
of August food again began to be scarce, and they
anxiously looked forward to the arrival of the annual
boats from Fort Simpson with stores, ammunition, &c.
for the Indian trade. ‘To their deep disappomtment
none arrived. Having, therefore, no means of barter,
and this intelligence quickly spreading amongst the
Indians, nothmg im the shape of provisions was
brought in by the Indians, with the exception of six-
teen pounds of meat and six marmots. To add to
their misery, the Fort took fire late in November, and
was burned down: thus nearly all remaining resources
in store, including most of the furs, were destroyed,
a little powder and some furs only being saved.

Having eaten up everything to the very pack or

330 DEATH FROM STARVATION.

bale-cords made of green hide, leather, and even
their mocassins, they began in the middle of Decem-
ber to singe and eat the remaining furs. The Indian
with his wife, his young brother, and two little girls,
went to encamp in the woods, where they dragged on
a miserable existence with the aid of rabbits and
esculent roots. Mr. P. having, perhaps, more confi-
dence in his own powers than in those of his men,
gave them up the furs, telling them to try and make
them last out until spring, while he himself went
off in the beginning of January to a lake to try and
catch fish. Here is his diet-table for 57 days :—

20 fish. | 1 fox.

18 rabbits. | 1 crow or raven.

8 partridges. | 1 owl.

10 squirrels. |

On his return, on the 13th of March, he found to

his horror but one man; and, asking for the other,
was informed that he had died eight days since from
sheer manition : for, although the furs were by no means
exhausted, they did not contain matter sufficient for
the creation of blood; and thus, though often eating
to surfeiting, he sank gradually until his last feeble
breath was drawn. Mr. P. asked the remaining man
where the body was; he replied that he had cached it

side, but that the wolves had dragged it away.

Bi

A HORRID DISCLOSURE. Sak

He went out, but could discover no trace of it; and,
coming in, sat down by the fire, which was composed
of the boards of the house, the poor fellow being too
weak to cut up wood. He observed some bones in
the fireplace, and momentary suspicions of a frightful
nature crossed his mind, but these were speedily
dissipated by the remark made by the man, that these
were the bones of deer, &c., which had, in past time,
fallen through the chinks of the boards, and had been
picked up when the floormg was taken for firewood.
After cutting wood and fetching water enough to last
until he should return, Mr. P. went off, determming
again to seek his food rather than deprive his
companion of the remaining furs, and hoping that he
might perchance get through the season on them. He
repaired to the lodge of the Indian, who had been to the
Fort since the death of the other man, and on Mr. P.
expressing his wonder that the body was not to be
found, the Indian replied, “Is it possible, my father,
that you do not know what has become of it? did
you not see the bones in the fireplace?” Mr. P.
replied, that the survivor had told him that those
were bones picked from under the floor. “ My
father,’ was the answer, “I am an Indian, yet I know
that the live man has eaten the dead. Deers’ bones

I know, and the bones of all other beasts I know.

332 HUNGER’S EXTREMES,

‘Those were none such: they were the bones of a
human being ; for when I went to the house I also
saw those bones in the ashes, and received a like
answer to yours, but, taking a piece of skin and
putting it to roast at the fire, I let it fall as if by
accident, then raking among the ashes with a stick,
I turned the bones over, and saw that they were
certainly those of a human being. My father, I am an
Indian ; yet, trust what I say, one has eaten the other.”
In five days, according to promise, Mr. P. retumed
to the Fort, having existed meanwhile on an occa-
sional partridge or rabbit. On entering the house he
found the poor fellow lying before the fire, totally
unable to help himself, and now told him that, since
he found him so weak, henceforward, “ live or die, he
would leave him no more.” He managed to shoot a
raven for him, and went to fetch wood and water,
and to try for some game. Returning sooner than
was expected, and opening the door quickly and wide,
as had lately been his custom, he saw the kettle on
the. fire, and on inquiry, was answered that it
contained merely water ; but, gomg to the pot, he saw
that it held something more—and, searching the inside
of the kettle, horrible to tell, drew out a whole liver.
Paralyzed by this dreadful sight, he could not speak,

while the poor starving wretch, now discovered in the

CONFESSION AND REMORSE. aon

commission of the horrid deed, cowered down on the
hearth, and dared not lift his eyes to meet those of his
fellow sufferer. Of him amazement, grief, loathing,
yet withal pity, took possession alternately ; poor
fellow ! not equally low with his companion, probably
because less desponding and more robust in consti-
tution, weak, and starving as he was, the revolting
sight overcame him, and he rushed into the open air
for relief. Compassion for the poor wretch led him
again to re-enter the house, but, unable to speak, he
commenced hewing a log. His unfortunate com-
panion asked him, however, what was the matter—why
did he rush so wildly out? “ Will you now confess,”
said Mr. P., “that you have been eating poor Dubois?”
The miserable being slowly and fearfully acknowledged
that such was the case, and pleaded that not alone the
love of life (and oh! when life is fleeting, then is the
love for it the strongest)—not the love of life alone
incited him to the deed, but that he wished to
live—aye !—mark it well—that his aged mother
might not be deprived of her sole support, her only
stay.

Mr. P. now procured wood and water sufficient for
two days—but he could no longer bear to remain:
the thought of this deed haunted him like a fate, and

he departed, promising to return in two days. The

334 DEATH FROM SURFRIT.

skeleton before him prayed and entreated him not to go,
not again to leave him all lone and solitary. But he
could not stay, poison was in the very atmosphere for
him. He went, and in two days returned again, and
throwing the door open quickly as usual— what a
sight presented itself! ’’ The man, or what had once
been a man, lay dead upon the hearth, stiff and cold, a
skin-covered frame of bones. ‘The fire had burnt out
for lack of fuel, and beside the corpse was the kettle,
whose contents had so lately confirmed his frightful
suspicions. It was now perfectly empty—flesh,
broth—all utterly consumed.

The wretched being had met his final death-stroke
in a surfeit of the horrible repast.

Mr. P. took the body outside the Fort and laid it
“en cache ;”’ then writing two letters, one for Whites,
the other for Indians, he took himself to a distance
and there encamped. For nearly three weeks he
dragged on a poor existence with skims and some
little game, and was reduced to the former extremity,
when the brother of the engaged Indian arrived with
some meat for him, hoping haply to find him still
alive. On meeting, they both shed tears of joy.
“My father, my father,” said the red man, “is it
possible that you are still alive? oh! what delight for

us to be able to save you.” He said he was not

ee

STRATAGEMS TO OBTAIN FOOD. S00

surprised to find that the other man was dead, having
estimated at the last meeting that he would not live
ten days longer.

“There was little rest for the kettle that night,”
and next morning the Indian started off to return to
his brother, and stop him from drymg the meat he
had. On the followmg morning Mr. P. departed also
for the camp, and when arrived soon recovered a
little strength. After a fortmght’s stay he returned
to the Fort and encamped opposite to it, as he had
now some meat to live upon ; but an old woman, whom
he had succoured on the road, arrived shortly after and
remained at the camp, so that there was not a
large share for each. Seven days after his arrival,
Mr. S. with three men came in; two of these being
Indians, returned to Fort Selkirk, the others with
Mr. P. starting next day for Fort Halkett : having
only forty pounds of pemmican for the journey,
they had therefore to depend mainly upon their guns ;
they were fortunately all good shots, and wild fowl
were in abundance.

Some of Mr. P.’s stratagems to obtain food during
the winter were sufficiently ingenious, for he had very
little shot, although powder enough. At one time
he looped a partridge with a long pole and a snare

(these birds are very tame in extreme cold); on

336 HUNGER THE MOTHER OF INVENTION.

another occasion he shot a squirrel with a piece of
green stick, and, the hammer of his gun being broken,
fired with a piece of birch fungus, used as tinder,
having first tried a lighted stick, which diverted

his aim.

CHAPTER XX.

Leave Fort Simpson.— Ascent of Mackenzie.— Receive Admiralty
Despatches.—Mr. Pullen promoted.—Return to Fort Simpson.—The
“Logan” and “Try Again.”—Departure for the Sea Coast.—Point Sepa-
ration.— Tiny Tormentors.—A diminutive Gourmand.—Re-enter the
Arctic Ocean.—Garry Island.—Ice Blink.—Pelly Island.—A change
of Climate.—Discover New Islands.—An Esquimaux Hamlet. —
Vexatious Impediments.—Scheme of Voyage.—Heavy Ice.—An
Esquimaux Nurse.—Cape Bathurst, Meeting with Esquimaux.—The
Bear Hunt.—Progress checked by Ice.—Friendly demeanour and
Pilfering tendencies of Esquimaux.—Lose Indians.—Conjectures.—
Indians return,

Dr. Raz returned from the lower posts on the
10th of June, and on the 20th, half of the ‘“ Mac-
kenzie River Brigade,” consisting of four large boats
laden with furs, started from Fort Simpson, ex route
for Methy Portage, the other half having departed
some days before. The “Plover’s” boat expedition
accompanied this brigade, expecting to return to
England, by way of Hudson’s Bay. We continued
the ascent of the Mackenzie,—principally, as usual, by
tracking, starting generally at two or three in the
morning and encamping at nine, for at this season

there is constant daylight. On the 25th of June,

Z

338 RECEIVE DESPATCHES.

when near Great Slave Lake, we were met by two
Indians in a canoe who proved to be bearers of an
“extraordinary express”’ from England, which con-
tained Mr. Pullen’s commission as Commander and
the sanction of the Admiralty to renewed prosecution
of the search for Sir John Franklin’s party, if Captain
Pullen should consider it practicable. Very little
consideration was necessary on the subject, and after
consultation with Dr. Rae, the decision was speedily
arrived at, to return to the sea-coast. We reached
the fishing-station called Big Island, at the entrance
of Great Slave Lake, where some of our party had
wintered, next day, and attempted to reach Fort
Resolution to obtain a supply of pemmican, but the
ice in the lake checked our progress, and Captain
Pullen decided on returning at once to Fort Simpson,
to prepare for the second trip. On the 29th, accord-
ingly, we bade farewell to Dr. Rae and his brigade,
and retraced our way to Fort Simpson, which was
reached on the 3rd of July.

The boats which we had brought from the “Plover”’
were so much damaged that only one, the ‘“ Logan,”
(repaired from the other) could be made available,
and we were furnished by the company with a large
new boat, whose dimensions were in strong contrast

to our own diminutive craft; she measured thirty

LEAVE FORT SIMPSON. 339

feet on the keel, forty “over all,” and was nine fect
broad. She was christened “ Try Again,” in reference
to our new attempt, in preparations for which we were
busy enough for several days. On the 11th we
quitted Fort Simpson, and halting for a night at
Fort Norman, where my old friend and fisherman,
Taylor, was in charge, reached Fort Good Hope on
the 16th, and were kindly welcomed by Mr. M‘Beath,
who was greatly surprised at our appearance. We
resumed our descent of the river next day, re-crossed
_ the Arctic circle during the night, and halted on the
morrow at Point Separation for observations, and to
take up the pemmican left here by Sir John Richardson
in 1848. On the previous day we had met a party of
Loucheux who informed us with much boasting that
they had met Esquimaux near Point Separation a
short time since, and had a battle with them: the
true particulars of this dastardly affair were only
made known to us on our return, and will be
mentioned by and by. Mosquitos and “ bull-dogs”’
(i. e., gad-flies,) had long been troublesome, but
here they were particularly harassing; the latter
were im such numbers that they literally blackened
the mainsail of the “Try Again,” hoisted to shelter
us from the blazing noon-day sun which raised the

thermometer to nearly 100°, the temperature being
%2

340 MOSQUITOS.

84° in the shade. Apart from the great annoyance
of the mosquitos, it was curious to notice one of
these little torments settle upon one’s skin, and how
its shrunk carcase distended to quadruple its original
size as it gorged itself with blood, the crimson fluid
showing plainly beneath, until at last it became
almost incapable of flight. Hach one of these tiny
creatures will extract a large drop of blood, so that
where they are numerous one may suffer consider-
ably by their homceopathic phlebotomy as well as by
the distressing irritation they produce.

After quitting Pomt Separation on the 20th, we
followed the easternmost channel of the delta,and found
the mosquitos ten times worse than ever. We un-
fortunately landed near a swamp in the hope of finding
a moose, and took myriads more of our persecutors
into the boats on re-embarking ; a smoky fire had no
effect in persuading them to quit their well-relished
sanguineous fare, and they were so thick that our
joking tars declared they checked the boat’s progress
down the stream: but the reality was no joke; little
sleep was obtainable, for to enfold one’s self in blankets
was to be tormented with heat, and in remaining
uncovered one received a thousand tiny stings until
the nerves became almost msupportably excited.

On the morning of the 22nd, the Arctic ocean was

PELLY ISLAND. _ 341

displayed once more to our view, with a strong yellow
ice-blink on the horizon which did not promise much
for a clear sea. We landed on Garry Island to dine,
and had a fine view from its highest part. To the
north and west a nearly unbroken line of ice appeared,
and a strong blink gave token of ice to the S. W.;
N. E. only was clear of ice and dotted with numerous
islands and sandy patches.

The abruptness of the change in temperature upon
quitting the Mackenzie was truly surprising ; instantly
on our emerging from the channel the almost tropical
heat we had previously experienced was replaced by
cutting fog and a chilling atmosphere, and we jumped
from light clothing into heavy winter habiliments.

Pelly Island was reached in the evening, and we
encamped on its northern shores, having found the
water shallow on the western side. At midnight,
when the sun, though near to, did not disappear
below the horizon, the pack was about three miles
off, driving to the southward; amongst it were
some large hummocks and heavy floes. In some
small lakes on the island our two Indian hunters—
who, with other additions and some exchanges, in-
creased our party to seventeen persons—found a great
number of geese with their young: the old ones

were moulting and fell an easy prey to the guns:

342 DISCOVER NEW ISLANDS.

about forty were captured, and made—although very
thin—an acceptable addition to our ordinary meagre
fare, and as we could catch no fish they were doubly
acceptable. The western face of the island is formed
of high banks, broken down and overhanging ; at
its northern extreme are steep mud cliffs, apparently
from thirty to forty feet high, and cut by ice within
five feet of the top. To the eastward it terminates
in a long gravel spit.

On the 23rd some new islands were discovered,
but we had not then leisure to fix their positions with
accuracy, and a few bearings sufficed. Kendall Island
was our resting place this night, and here our hunters
managed to brmg down a deer which we estimated
to weigh about 160 pounds clear of offal. The
higher parts of all these islands. resemble arable
land lymg fallow, so much are they cracked and
riven by the intense cold. Flowers are in some
spots numerous and of considerable variety, but all
very diminutive; no trees or shrubs are to be met
with, a species of cotton creeper, whose stem is
not larger than one’s little finger, bemg the largest
production. There were innumerable marmot holes ;
the men were chasing these little animals throughout
the night. A few ptarmigan were also seen upon
the hills. The soil is all fine black mould, with

ESQUIMAUX HAMLET. 343

neither stones nor shells. Placing a tide-stick at
night we found next morning a rise and fall of
about a foot. We encamped on Richard Island
on the 24th, and here killed another deer which
afforded luxurious feasting. In the evening of the
25th, landing for a short time near Toker Point,
we found a number of Esquimaux winter dwellings ;
they were built of driftwood and sods of turf or
mud; on a ground-plan they formed three sides of a
cross, the roofs were nearly orange-shaped but rather
more peaked, with a hole in the centre to let out
the smoke; the apartments were raised about four
feet from the ground, the entrance bemg from below
through a sort of trap-hatch. Near the huts were
several covered pits containing whale and seal blad-
ders of oil, and upon light scaffolds around were
disposed several articles of native manufacture. At
first we thought the village was entirely deserted,
but a tmy footprint freshly made in the sand _ re-
futed the supposition. We hung a knife, scissors,
some beads and tobacco to one of the stages, to-
gether with a rude hieroglyphic scratched upon a
board, to assure the Hsquimaux of our friendly
intentions, then re-embarked and continued our
journey. Becoming entangled in the pack, we gained

the beach in Hutchinson’s Bay with difficulty, and

344 VEXATIOUS IMPEDIMENTS.

were here detained for three days of very great
discomfort, having landed on a low, marshy spot,
with no other shelter than sieve-hke tents from
melting snow and heavy rains, and with rotten wood
only for fires. We got away on the 29th, but the
day was expended in toilsome endeavours to force a
passage through the ice, which lay in flat pieces
or fields, several acres in extent, and seven or eight
feet thick, or rose in masses twenty or thirty feet
high, like so many houses in ruins.

It is difficult for inexperience to conceive how
greatly chilled the wind becomes in its passage over
ice. Here, in the month of July, a south breeze, which
should have been the softest and warmest exhalation
of Aolus, stagnated the blood by its frost-becharged
breath. In the morning we had forced through the
pack which belted the shore, hoping to find an open
sea, and at night succeeded only with great toil and
some danger in regaining the land, which was right
welcome after our disagreeable day. Nearly sixteen
hours in open boats, with thickly driving fogs which
wetted as badly as rain, and encrusted the masts
and rigging with ice, while toes and noses com-
plained sadly, made us duly appreciate our midnight
bivouac. We had now reached Pomt M‘Kinley,

upon which was another Esquimaux village, but

a

NARROW ESCAPE OF A SEAL. 345

most of the huts were falling to ruins, and apparently,
long desolate. Wandering about the settlement, we
observed the frames of one or two oomiaks and kiaks,
some harpoons having stone heads bound on with
sinews of the seal, paddles double and single bladed,
wooden scoops and ladles, pits for blubber, pieces of
wood drilled for producing fire, and the bones of
some small whales. There was also the carcase of a
wolf, which had, apparently, died from starvation.
A trifling circumstance occurred here which gave us
a hearty laugh; a young seal got entangled in the nets
which we had laid out, and the fisherman—a Canadian,
who had never visited the sea before—imagined he
saw some horrible monster, and let it go in affright.
We were detained for two days at this place: the ice
surrounded the point and entirely checked our ad-
vance. We had hoped to be at Cape Bathurst by
the end of July, the lst of August only saw us de-
parting from this spot.

The plan upon which the present trip to the sea
had been undertaken may be briefly sketched as
follows :—It was hoped that the season being favour-
able, the expedition, descending the Mackenzie, would
reach the sea about the 23rd of July, and gain Cape
Bathurst in a few days. Thence it was intended to

strike right across for Banks’ Land, a distance of

346 CAPE DALHOUSIE.

rather more than 300 miles: this accomplished, future
operations would have to depend. upon the contin-
gencies then arising.

It was not our good fortune to achieve this grand
undertaking ; the season was, as regarded ourselves,
most unfortunate: a succession of northerly winds
drove the ice down upon the shores, along which
we had to pass, and our days were frittered away
in vexatious detentions or useless toil amongst rugged
ice masses and shallow waters.

Near Cape Dalhousie, on the 3rd of August, we
encountered the largest ice we had yet seen, and
mounted to the top of one of the hummocks, fifty or
sixty feet high, to look round ; as from the boats our
view was very contracted, and the ice being so closely
packed that but few “lanes” were visible. In the
evening we had to break through the pack to regain
the shore, an occupation of three hours’ severest
Jabour, though the neck through which we strove
to pass was not more than five hundred yards broad,
but the ice was in large fields, or jomted together and
under-tongued, and bemg all in motion required
great management. We remained at Cape Dalhousie,
which is on an island, durmg the 4th, and reached
Nicholson’s Island next evening, having in the run

observed some grampuses, a few seals, and quantities

i ee

-ESQUIMAUX WOMEN. 347

of ducks, which latter made a great uproar and
commotion. Nicholson’s Island is high in some
parts, I should thnk 150 to 200 feet above the
sea. Partridges were in great numbers but very
wild; besides these there was nothing to be found
except mushrooms, which were very plentiful and
excellent. The evening of the 6th saw us at
Maitland Island: here we found two Esquimaux
women, an old and a young one, the first of the
tribe seen on the trip. They were dreadfully fright-
ened, and chattered away unceasingly, making signs
for us to depart. Conciliatory gestures, however,
soon calmed their fears, and the elder dame speedily
became very friendly—perhaps, indeed, a little too
familiar, as they were horribly dirty both m person
and dress. There was a little difference in their
costume to those we had seen to the westward of
the Mackenzie; the younger woman had her hair
bound up in immense bows at the back of the head ;
she wore a frock of seal-skin, with pomted ends,
tight breeches, and boots of the same material. She
had an infant which she always carried with her :
its wardrobe was very scanty indeed, but a large stock
of clothes was, apparently, unnecessary, as it was
generally snugly ensconced inside of its mother’s

frock next to her skin, and secured from slipping

348 ESQUIMAUX NURSING.

down by means of a greasy leather cord which she
wore as a girdle. The lullaby of an Esquimaux nurse
is a performance curious as original. Having dis-
posed of her infant in the manner just described,
the mother goes about her other avocations, which
are always calling for performance, and while so
engaged, should the diminutive burden finding its
position troublesome, or perhaps slightly oppressive,
presume to utter cries of discontent, it is very
summarily hushed into silence. The mother moves
from one foot to the other, at the same time striking
the poor infant with either hand alternately, and
drawling monotonously the universal Hi Yangah chant
of the Esquimaux, than which few things could be
invented less devoid of animation or interest. No
wonder the hapless babe ceases its puerile lamenta-
tions on the instant. Our Indians (who had never
before seen Esquimaux) did not at all comprehend the
specimens before them, particularly on the question of
sex, nor can this be a matter of surprise ; their aspects
were decidedly unfeminine, and so were their—it
must out—pantaloons. Quittmg Point Maitland on
the morning of the 8th, we crossed Harrowby Bay,
and in the afternoon, when approaching Cape
Bathurst, observed twelve Esquimaux tents, some of

large size, surrounded by crowds of natives. Nearly

“XNVWINOST HLIM ONILAIW‘ISYNHILVGA adVvO

BIIT ' cHvanvHd

eo dl ' LAVANWH KE IN

mT * IMG

AMICABLE DISPOSITION OF NATIVES. 349

twenty kiaks and several oomiaks. pushed off from the
shore, the women, with which the latter were crowded,
shouting and vociferating in high glee. Their dis-
orderly merriment knew no bounds, and although
they appeared to entertain only friendly sentiments, it
was necessary to repress a'too great familiarity. We
were quite overwhelmed by their amicable demonstra-
tions; the single boats hung upon the gunwales of
our craft, the oomiaks got athwart our bows, and the
crews of each threw in pell mell meat, fish, skins,
dresses, or whatever else they possessed. ‘These were,
however, all rejected; we consented to receive only
upon barter, but even on this point had some
embarrassment, one of the dames being about to
despatch her husband to us with her infant, either as
a present, or in exchange for some coveted commodity.
We landed to dine ina small bay at some distance
from the camp; the men only accompanied us hither,
the women and children in their oomiaks having
returned to their tents. The very friendly demeanour
of our new acquaintances seemed to render all pre-
caution unnecessary; but we had learned a grave
lesson on our first trip, and were always very guarded
im our intercourse with Hsquimaux. Here, while we
dined, a boundary line was drawn according to our

custom upon the sand, but it was too far from our

350 THRE BOUNDARY JINKE.

position to please our friends; they drew another
nearer, to which they then advanced, but not a foot
passed beyond it, and all united in a song, one of
them leading, beating time with his knife and spoon
in place of a drum, and moving his feet also to the
measure. I now for the first time heard words in the
song, and these were apparently not improvised, as
the whole party took up the same word at every
pause, but the refrain was the old original, Hi Yangah,
yah, rah.

By the time that we had concluded our meal and
embarked, the oomiaks had rejoined us, now bearing
tents and all possessions, for it does not take an
Esquimaux family long to remove their summer
mansion and change their residence. We encamped
in the evening upon the larger of the Baillie Islands,
and were very sorry to find heavy ice crowding its
shores, and, by the reports of the Hsquimaux, of
whom about ten men remained with us, it would
entirely impede our passage to the eastward. During
this day we saw two black whales, the first seen on
the trip.

These Esquimaux were very intelligent: vivacious
curiosity replaced the apathetic air which I had
generally noticed in others of the tribe ; each and every

of our proceedings was investigated with a view to its

CHASE AFTER “ BRUIN.”’ 351

comprehension, and a ready talent for mimicry was
displayed. Writing puzzled our friends wonderfully,
a number of them sat in our tent watching me as |
wrote, looking alternately at the characters, my pen,
fingers, and face, as if to seek the clue to the mystery
by their connection. We pushed on along the shore
of the island for some time on the 9th, but were
much encumbered by the heavy ice, and_ finally
becoming completely checked by it, landed, and
encamped anew. On nearing the shore we saw a
huge bear trot off from the beach ; our hunters went
in chase, but without seeing him, and we gave up
all hope of Bruin’s reappearance. A number of the
Esquimaux, of both sexes, jomed us here, and were
friendly as ever: they had predicted that we should
not be able to proceed any further at present, and a
view of the sea to the north and east too truly con-
firmed their statement. Ice rugged, massive and
compact, lay like a forest of crystal pimnacles close
down upon, and around the islands, extending to
seaward, far as the vision ranged. In the afternoon
an Esquimaux woman joined us who had seen the
bear on the top of the island, and in her fright had
taken to the soft mud banks, through which she had
trudged middle deep. She was in a pretty pickle;

but we ungallantly paid less attention to her condition

352 BEAR-HUNT.

than to the information she brought, and the united
forces of Esquimaux and Whites turned out in pursuit
of the hirsute quadruped.

The brute was discovered on a huge mass of ice,
which, with others, had grounded at some distance from
the beach ; one party started in the “ Logan ” to cut
off his retreat by sea; another, which I jomed, made
for the summit of the bank, which we hoped he would
endeavour to ascend. First blood was drawn by our
party ; a ball from my fowling-piece struck him in the
shoulder, and he fell for an instant on the ice and
began to suck his paw, which made us think it was
there he had been wounded. Speedily rising, he ran
on along the hummock, taking to the water and
climbing the sides of the masses of ice with the
utmost indifference and ease. Our hunters (Indians
are always excellent marksmen) now paid him some
attention ; they hit him several times, but did not
succeed in turning him : he attempted at last to swim
to seaward, and would doubtless have succeeded, but
for a new opponent. One of the Esquimaux,
launching his kiak, followed the bear, and at close
proximity discharged arrow after arrow into his body.
This was the most exciting part of the hunt. Hach
time that an arrow pierced its body the poor animal

seized the missile, if within reach, in its teeth, and

KILLING A BEAR. 3593

strove to wrench it from the wound, generally however
breaking it short: then would it turn fiercely on its
persecutor, who, skilfully manceuvring his light boat,
hung at two or three yards’ distance only on his rear ;
so close were they indeed that the man deliberately
splashed water with his double-bladed paddle into
poor Bruin’s face, just backing gently to be clear of
his paws, a single stroke from which would quite have
reversed the fortune of the combat: when, after a
hunt, which lasted about four hours, the animal
received its final death stroke by a ball through the
brain from the “ Logan:” he was stuck all over with
arrows, and looked like a barbecued pig. By the
laws of savage venery, first blood always decides the
captor, and the Esquimaux readily recognised the rule
in the present instance, indicating that the prize
belonged to the Kabloonan. Of course the carcase
was divided, but I stipulated for, and obtained, the
skin; which I still possess as a trophy. An hour
afterwards I ate a bear steak. The HEsquimaux who
had so importantly contributed to the capture was
rewarded with a large broad dagger (a very awkward
weapon in his hands) and some other trifling presents,
and was delighted with his good fortune. This little
episode served to while away part of the time of our

vexatious delay ; the Esquimaux were constantly with

AA

354 PICKPOCKRETS.

us, and never showed the slightest signs of unfriend-
liness. They were, however, most expert thieves, and
we had many a laugh at their efforts to victimise us
in this way. One fellow put a silver spoon up his
sleeve, another buried the frying-pan (ah, cruel
attempt), and a third joker was detected endeavouring
to smuggle away about his person one of the fishing
nets (only 40 fathoms long). Our pockets were as
much the property of our friends as of ourselves, but
the most extraordinary circumstance of all was that
when upon missing any article we inquired for it
among our friends, it was immediately restored. I
suppose they only desired to take care of our goods
for us.

On the 10th we quitted the island and encamped
on the main land a few miles from the Cape. There
was a tent here contammg an Hsquimaux man and
four women ; they approached us with some slight
hesitation, but became reassured by our conciliatory
words and gestures, and by the distribution of
presents. We had brought some vermilion with
us, knowing the partiality evinced for this material,
and I now bedaubed the faces of our friends im
artistic style.

After dinner we endeavoured to beat up for Cape

Bathurst, and on passing abreast of the Hast and

ICE-BOUND. 355

smaller Baillie Islands, observed upon it twenty tents,
surrounded by Esquimaux, who took to their boats
and surrounded us in crowds, with shouts and screams
of delight. Indeed our visit appeared to cause quite
a festival. The elders of the party warned us that
we should find no passage, but they nevertheless lent
their aid in guiding us towards the Cape, leading
the way in ther kiaks, and sounding with their
paddles to indicate the channel, for here shoals
run out a long distance from the mainland towards
the islands. Gaining with difficulty, by tortuous
winding through heavy masses of rugged ice, a
position on the, northern side of the spit lying under
the Cape, we had a full view of the impossibility

of a present advance,—

““The ice was here, the ice was there,
The ice was all around.”

Pressing down upon the shore of the island, upon the
spit, the Cape, and into Franklin Bay, it spread thence
to seaward in masses heaped tumultuously, sparkling
and shimmering in the sunshine, each crystallised point
evolving hues of the prism. Not a lane, not a
breach appeared ; a barrier as of stone lay between us
and our desired route. We remained in the neigh-

bourhood for several days, watching if perhaps a

A A 2

356: - OUR COMPULSORY RETURN.

favourable turn of wind or current might drive
the ice off shore and afford a passage for advance.
But such good fortune was not ours, and it was at
length resolved to turn our boats’ heads once more
towards the Mackenzie. Those who have fixed their
ardent hopes on the attainment of some distant goal,
who in the pursuit have unheedingly encountered toil,
privation, wearmess, and countless inconveniences,
and who have finally been forced to relinquish their
desires, will be able to enter into the sentiments of
chagrin and disappomtment which possessed our souls
when “to return’ was spoken.

During our sojourn here the Esquimaux were
constantly with us, and accepted without hesitation
our friendly professions. No lingering distrust was
ever apparent; if the men were absent in the chase
by sea or land, the women and children were around
and about us in unrestrained communication, and
affording us all the assistance in their power. Their
curiosity and pilfermg propensities were the only
annoyances to which we were subjected ; of the latter
I have already spoken ; to satisfy the former we had
much ado: our clothes, beards, and possessions, were
all unsparingly handled, and the Esquimaux ladies
don’t always have clean hands. One of the young

men of the tribe had a wound in his arm which he

HOSTILITY BETWEEN ESQUIMAUX AND INDIANS. 357

displayed to me, with a request that [ would d/ow on
it. As it was unclean and festering, I opened it with
the lancet, washed and dressed it, and dismissed my
patient with assurance of the speedy improvement of
the hurt. This did not suffice however ; the wounded
limb was again extended, and I was entreated to blow
upon it, which as it was considered so indispensable
to recovery I of course proceeded to do: the man
immediately fetched an arrow, which he tendered for
my acceptance in return for my friendly offices, and
seemed to doubt the efficacy of the charm he had
insisted upon my performing when I gently refused
his gift.
From causes not clearly explained, our Indian
hunters were in perpetual fear of our Esquimaux
friends. No doubt the hostility long existing between
the races influenced them greatly, and I rather think
they had been truly informed respecting the collision
which had lately occurred near Point Separation, and
of which some Indians had told us on our descent of
the Mackenzie: but, as we subsequently learnt, with
details and exaggeration which had completely per-
verted the aspect of the affair: if this was the case,
I do not wonder at their alarm lest the treacherous
conduct of their own people should be visited upon

them. From whatever cause it occurred, the fact is

358 DISAPPEARANCE OF TWO HUNTERS,

certain, that our forest brethren were ever in
fear and agitation, during our sojourn among the
sea-coast race. They used to go off to hunt, but
always together, and never strayed far, so that we
were much surprised on the morning of the 13th, to
Jearn that Karias and Louison had been absent all
night, having departed on the previous evening in
the hope of finding a deer. Greatly puzzled were
all to account for their mysterious absence, particularly
as the day wore on, and they did not return. Three
conjectures divided the opinions of the party :—Furst,
that they had possibly fallen upon the track of deer,
and in the ardour of pursuit been carried farther than
they intended, or lost the right direction in which to
return; but this view was imperatively negatived by
some, who urged, and truly, that in their native
forests an Indian never by any chance misses his
way; they forgot that here the case was widely dif-
ferent ; that of the many tokens which, by instinctive
and educational observation, guide these children of
nature m traversing their own woods, here they had
few or none.

The next supposition was, that irresistibly incited
by their fears of the Esquimaux, to which we were
no strangers, they had suddenly deserted the party

with the imtention of gaming the banks of the

AND SPECULATIONS ON THE CAUSE. 359

“Inconnu”’ River, respecting whose distance and
direction from our position they had, strange to say,
more than once inquired, and which stream one of
them had frequently hunted upon and knew very
well. There were many arguments both for and
against this view: their evident fears—their sudden
departure, and their having full horns of powder on
the one side: on the other, the improbability of their
quitting us im an unknown position, and the facts,
still more significant, that they had taken with them
neither extra mocassins nor a large store of tobacco,
and an Indian never likes to undertake a journey
unprovided in these respects.

Another conjecture was started, but we could not
bear to entertain it long. It was, that the poor
fellows had been followed by some among the Esqui-
maux, waylaid and assassinated; but, independently
of the distressing nature of this idea, it did not bear
the stamp of probability, as the Esquimaux had never
swerved from their friendly demonstrations to all,
nor evinced the slightest dislike to the Indians espe-
cially; indeed, I much doubt whether they were
acquainted, except by vague rumour, with the enmity
existing between the Indians and those of their own
tribe frequenting the mouth of the Mackenzie, and

probably did not even know that our wanderers

360 RETURN OF THE WANDERERS.

belonged to that locality. So we hoped this thought
nearly away. I was despatched with two men, inland,
to seek for traces of the missing, but found none;
they did not return during the 13th, and we became
very greatly alarmed. A longer trip was taken next
morning to look for them, but unavailingly as before,
and we had begun to consider of the best course
to be adopted towards their discovery, when late
in the afternoon the wanderers were descried in
the distance, and soon regained the camp, shoeless,
foot-sore, faint, and famishing. As we had waited
only for the return of the Indians to break up our
camp and depart, the orders to do so were speedily
given, and bidding farewell to the Esquimaux, we
embarked and, turning our backs upon Cape Bathurst,
set out on return to the Mackenzie.

When interrogated as to the reasons for their
protracted absence, our Indians informed us that
they had fired at and broken the leg of a deer, and
in the heat of pursuit followed it right across to
the shore of Franklin’s Bay, where only they dis-
covered that they had taken the wrong direction,
and were, in fact, on the opposite side of the point
to our position.

We told them how narrowly they had escaped

abandonment; that it had been determined to

CAUSE OF OUR SEPARATION. 361

depart next morning if they did not return, and
we asked them what they should have done in such
a case.

“We should have dug a hole, lain down and died,”
said they.

CHAPTER XXI.

Return Voyage.—Farewell to Esquimaux.—A Native Swell Mobsman.—
Beaufort, Pullen, and Hooper Islands.—‘ Logan” Farewell.—Fort
M‘Pherson.—Horrible Massacre of Esquimaux.—Reflections upon its
probable consequences.—Ascent of Mackenzie——Corroborative Con-
fession of Manuel Hebert.—Arrival at Fort Simpson.—Remarks on
the late Expedition Arrangements for wintering.—Effect of cold
upon Metal.—Luxurious Diet.—Ice “sets fast.”—-A narrow Escape.—
Dogged Prejudices.

We encamped in the evening near the spot where
our first meeting with this large band of Hsquimaux
had occurred, and were joimed some time after arrival
by a small party which, more attached to us than
the rest, or possibly (uncharitable thought), in the
hope of gaining further presents, had followed to see
the last of us. They remained with us during the
night, to the very great discomfiture of the Indians,
whose fears were so much excited by their presence,
that, notwithstanding the imtense fatigue they had
lately undergone, one of them, more nervous than his
companion, refused to le down to sleep, but kept
watch beside our camp-fire. The farewells interchanged

between ourselves and the few Esquimaux who had

FAREWELL TO ESQUIMAUX. 363

followed to witness our final departure on the morning
of the 15th, were imteresting and indicative of the
two races and their relative positions. Presents were
appointed to each of the natives, and we explained
to them, as well as we could, our gratification at the
reception we had met with, and the good nature
and amicable bearing they had displayed. A long
oration, gesticulatory emphatic, was delivered in reply
by one of the women: it was clearly valedictory, as
well as eulogistic of the departing Kabloonan, whose
general designation figured largely in the discourse,
together with frequent allusions to particular indivi-
duals of both parties, and to the sun, skies, sea,
whales, and other objects. They asked us when we
should return, and we named ten moons as the period
which must elapse ere a new visit could be made.

It would be waste of time to enter upon the details
of our return-journey, which, like the outward trip,
was a series of discomfort and toil. Gales, rain, snow,
shallow water, heavy ice, a freezing temperature and
wretched food—these tell our tale comprehensively.

A few small whales were seen (I never saw large
ones nor met with their bones upon the coast) and near
Point M‘Kinley we found an Esquimaux family, of
which the father was as expert in theft as one of our

own dear swell-mob; he abstracted a kmife, inch by

364 CLEVER THIEVING.

inch, from the belt of one of our men with celerity
and skill which deserved the highest credit, and
disposed of his booty up his sleeve with the most
unconcerned air. JI had watched his proceedings
throughout in great amusement, and our friend was
greatly disconcerted when his arm was grasped, and
the retention of the blade in the act revealed me a
witness to his culpability. At Toker Poimt, where
we had landed on the 25th of July, and deposited
some trinkets and a hieroglyphic despatch, the dwell-
ings were now surrounded by natives, who had
evidently discovered and comprehended our tokens,
and were eager for us to halt and visit them.

They shouted to us, and waved clothes from the
tops of their dwellings, but we had a fine fair breeze
and could not delay. On this evening, two Esqui-
maux approached our encampment, near Refuge Cove,
but displayed unaccountable signs of trepidation and
alarm, and needed considerable coaxing and promises
of presents to induce them to enter the camp; they
remained near us all night, but it must have been
im great doubt of our intentions, for they threw up
a slight breastwork of driftwood, behind which they
lay, and, on our preparing to depart next morning,
scampered off to a distance and resumed their bows

and arrows, which, it seems, they had concealed on

WE ABANDON THE “ LOGAN.” 365

their first approach. On the 23rd we passed the
easternmost channel of the Mackenzie, and gained
one of the islands we had before discovered. It
was called after the good Sir Francis Beaufort,* hydro-
grapher of the navy, a name universally honoured
throughout Europe. Next day we landed on another
of our discoveries, a large island, whose summit was
upwards of a hundred feet from the sea: this will
henceforth be known as Hooper Island. To the north-
ward we observed, but did not land upon, another
island, which was called ‘Pullen,’ after our com-
mander. On the 26th we proceeded to the westward,
and passing Pelly Island, landed on Garry Island
for the night. Next day we steered to the southward
and sought for a channel, whereby to ascend the
Mackenzie, failmg im which we proceeded to the
westward, and after more than one disappointment
and difficulty, finally entered the river on the 31st,
by the channel we had discovered last year, and halted
near the spot which had before received us.

Here was the “Logan” doomed. ‘T'wo seasons of
employment and severe trial had left her in a sad
plight ; she had become sorely shattered and ice-torn:
it was therefore resolved to abandon her here, as

otherwise she would only uselessly delay our asétnt of

* And since named Rae Island.

366 ASCENT OF THE MACKENZIE.

the stream: but in return for faithful service in
arduous undertakings—in commemoration of many
scenes of toil and privation through which she and
our little band had passed—she was deposited with
care and ceremony in her last resting-place.

On the left bank of the Mackenzie in latitude
68° 44’ 25” N., longitude 135° 44’ 42” W., was
upreared the “Logan,” overlooking that element
whose bosom she had so often pressed in storm
and in tranquillity ; resting upon ice, to whose rude
shocks she was no stranger, and supported in her
upright position by shores of drift-timber, such as
had marked, for many a mile, the coast along which
she had passed. I planted a few flowers in the
mould which had been placed in the end which was
embedded in the ground; may each succeeding
spring behold them blossom anew.

Our ascent of the Mackenzie varied little from
the same journey last year, and, strange to say, we
again entered the Peel River unintentionally, although
endeavouring to avoid it, but the numerous channels
below Point Separation are provocative of error. On
the 7th of September Fort M‘Pherson was reached,
and we were welcomed by Mr. Alexander M‘Kenzie,
the officer of the Hudson’s Bay Company, in tem-

porary charge of the post. Here I received, from the

MASSACRE OF ESQUIMAUX. 367

lips of a witness (in part concerned in the affair), a de-
tailed account of the occurrence which had been vaguely
communicated to us by some Indians, during our
descent of the Mackenzie in July last, and which
was now proved to have been an atrocious and
treacherous massacre of a party of unoffending Esqui-
maux by some of the Loucheux, aided—I blush to
say—by one bearing a white skin, which was eternally
dishonoured in his person. On the breaking up of
the ice in the spring of 1850, a boat containing four
white men—Manuel, steersman (French Canadian),
M‘Kay, Sanderson, and Brown (Orkney men), and two
Indians, left Fort Good Hope, on the Mackenzie, to
proceed to Fort M‘Pherson, the station on the Peel
River. ‘They were detained by the stoppage of the
ice, which frequently becomes checked in its descent
after breaking up, and were in some distress for
food, but fortunately shot some geese, which migrate
hitherward in the sprmg. At Point Separation they
landed for a short time, some of the party bemg
desirous of inspecting the cache of provisions which
had been placed there by Sir John Richardson.
Point Separation is nearly the highest spot to which
the Esquimaux ever now ascend, and it occurred that
just at the time the party beached their boat among

the masses of ice which lined the shore, they espied

368 MASSACRE OF ESQUIMAUX.

‘an Esquimaux approaching in his canoe, threading his
way through the lanes left by the ice ; others followed
him until ten persons were counted. Manuel, either
from fright or wantonness—most probably the former .
—desired to fire upon this party, but was more than
once prevented by M‘Kay, who turned aside the
muzzle of his gun, and entreated him to forbear,
until they should display a hostile intention. Manuel
consented to reserve his fire for awhile, until M‘Kay
should run back for a short distance to see if a
band. of Loucheux approached, as they knew they
could not be far off. At a short distance behind,
M‘Kay found the Indians who were paddling leisurely
along, but who, on receipt of the intelligence, could
not, as my informant said, come fast enough, but
lightly hauling their bark canoes on shore, ran along
the beach to the spot. The Loucheux were fourteen
in number; each man carried his gun, and three more
fire-arms were in the possession of the Fort Good
Hope party; the Esquimaux had only their bows and
arrows. Upon the commencement of a parley, and
when invited to approach, the chief, or eldest of the
Esquimaux, desired the Indians to put their guns
aside, and his request being complied with, he paddled
in to within a few yards of the beach and fired all

his arrows into the ground in a circle, then held up

INDIAN BARTER. 369

his bow and empty quiver to show that he had no
more. His example was followed by the others in
succession, and trade was then instituted between the
parties ; buttons, knives, &c., being bartered by the
Indians in exchange for trinkets of bone and ivory,
furs, &c. When the stock of the Esquimaux was
nearly exhausted, and business began to slacken, two
of the Esquimaux departed to bring up the larger
boat (i.e. oomiak) which contamed the women, and
more furs, &c. As these did not return quickly, two
more of the party departed to hasten their arrival,
-leaving only six Esquimaux. The Loucheux being
apparently apprehensive that the remainder of the
band would also go away, invited them to go on shore,
while waiting for their boat, and have a dance; to
this they acceded, but landed on the opposite side of
a small creek, which divided the bank at this spot.
The old chief was the first who stepped on shore,
and as he did so, he pulled off his frock, and appear-
ing only in breeches and mocassins, held up his arms
and slapped his body to show that he carried no
weapons : his companions did the same, and Loucheux
and Esquimaux then began to dance on opposite sides
of the creek. Good feeling appeared to be firmly
established, but presently, M‘Kay, who with Manuel

was looking on, observed one of the Loucheux

BB

370 INDIAN MASSACRE.

skulking round the ice, trailing his gun after him, at
full cock. He made him take his gun back, and
“oave him a good scolding,’ but on going to the
guns which were placed at a distance on the bank he
found them all at full cock, and shortly saw more of
the Indians stealing round under cover of the willows
to endeavour to get behind the Esquimaux; he
stopped these, but observed that, notwithstanding, half
only of the Indians were dancing to engage the
attention of the Esquimaux, while the rest were
seeking to fall upon them in the rear. He called on
Manuel to aid him in preventing the accomplishment
of this treacherous design, but Manuel replied that if
they wanted to kill them he should not stop them,
but would rather push them on; that it was no business
of theirs, &c. Failing to interest his own comrade in
averting the catastrophe, M‘Kay addressed himself to
one of the chiefs of the Indians and threatened him
with the anger of the Company’s officer at the neigh-
bouring post if this act were perpetrated: the Indian
promised that they would not fire at them, and M‘Kay
hoped he had succeeded in stopping the murderous
deed. The weather was at this time chilly, and as
M‘Kay had slipped into the water on landing, he ran
off to a fire which the other two men of his party had

made at a little distance, as he was now quite satisfied

INDIAN MASSACRE. ate

that no evil was intended. He had not reached his
companions when he heard a shot, succeeded immedi-
ately by others, and before he could return to the
spot he had so lately left “the place was all one
smoke,” and four of the poor deceived Esquimaux lay
stretched upon the sand; the other two ran to their
canoes and escaped before the second volley was fired,
though both were wounded by the first discharge.
The Loucheux now fired arrows into those who
remained ; one of these had got into the water after
being wounded, and now strove to shelter himself
behind a piece of drift wood, diving under it as the
arrows flew at him; this poor fellow they finished with
their guns and he sank, but the others they gashed
and mutilated, cutting the sinews under the arms and
laying those limbs over their heads. When, shortly
afterwards, the party of Whites and Indians reached
Fort M‘Pherson, and the account of this most
dastardly massacre was related to the Indians who
were about the establishment, they sided with M‘Kay
in condemning the perpetrators, who on their part
now expressed regret that they had not taken M‘Kay’s
advice, which, said they, they would have done but
that they were “ pushed on by Manuel,” who was said
to have confessed having fired with the Loucheux, but

denied that his shot had done any execution.

BB 2

372 CONSEQUENCES ANTICIPATED.

Mr. Peers on ascending the Mackenzie in the Fall saw
the bodies still lying on the shore, but they were
shortly after buried or carried away by the Esquimaux.

Alas the day that so foul and bloody an act of
treachery could be perpetrated! and alas, shame and
degradation that a white man could be found worse
fiend than the untutored savage !—to whose religion
revenge is a duty, as it is sweet to his nature. We
might perchance seek to palliate the commission of
this deed in the Red Indian who has some real or
fancied injury to retaliate, but even the shadow of an
excuse, or of any other motive than innate wantonness
and reckless bloodthirstiness, was wanting to the
fiendish miscreant who shared their hellish plot.

The ill consequences of this very melancholy affair,
will, it is to be feared, be extensive and irremediable,
and it must be a source of deep regret to consider
how much good might have been accomplished had a
different line of conduct been pursued.

The opportunity long and eagerly sought for to con-
ciliate the Esquimaux, and to place them on a friendly
footing with the Whites and the Loucheux, with
which latter they had been so long at feud, was most
recklessly thrown away. With a display of confidence
never before met with in them, these Hsquimaux

had voluntarily yielded up their arms, and trustingly

BURY PEMMICAN. 373

placed themselves in close proximity to their hereditary
enemies, regarding, I have little doubt, the presence
of the Whites as an assurance against treachery.
Probably very little persuasion would have prevailed
on them to proceed to the Fort, where afew presents |
and judicious treatment would have gone very far to
establish a friendly intercourse for the future. But,
mark the disastrous reverse : henceforth the Whiteman
will be included in the undying vengeance of the
injured. Esquimaux, who will seek—can we say un-
reasonably ?—opportunities for clearing off the score
of revenge. Woe be to detached parties, or solitary
stragglers, who may fall in their way; a short shrift
will be their lot, and we warned the scanty garrison
of Peel River to have a care, lest, unarmed and un-
prepared, they should some day be surprised by a
retaliating band.

We quitted Fort M‘Pherson on the 9th, and in the
afternoon reached the spot near Point Separation,
where the massacre, just related, had occurred. ‘The
kiaks of the poor victims were still here, much hacked
and broken; numerous foot-prints around were the
only additional relics of the event. At Point Separation
pemmican was buried in lieu of that we had removed
in the summer, and a notice was deposited with it

for any future expedition. On the 14th of the month,

—

374 ARREST FOR MURDER.

we encountered the boat containing Mr. Peers, and
the Peel River outfit for the season. With him (as
steersman) was the man Manuel, who, at the desire
of Captain Pullen, gave his version of the late shock-
ing affair. His story differed very little from that of
M‘Kay’s; he admitted having fired three times at
the Esquimaux, and that he had replied to M‘Kay’s
entreaty for his interference with the Loucheux, to
let them do as they pleased, “laisse les faire.”
Mr. Peers was apparently, and I think with very
good reason, not without fears of an attack at some
future time from the tribe so cruelly wronged ; at
his request the muskets and ammunition of our party
were supplied to him,—it is te be hoped they will
have no occasion to use them. |

I may here take occasion to remark, that I believe
the dastardly Manuel Hebert was sent down to
Canada to take his trial for murder; this demonstra-
tion may, at any rate, do good in deterring others
from such cold-blooded conduct in similar instances,
even if, as I very much fear, the brute will escape
punishment for want of witnesses.

Fort Good Hope was gained on the 17th, and we
received a new and hearty greeting from our kind
friend Mr. M‘Beath and his amiable spouse. <A

supply of pemmican, flour, and clothing awaited

RETROSPECT. Sto

us; right welcome was the addition of the coimes-
tibles to our hitherto villanous diet. On the 25th,
Fort Norman and my old friend Taylor, gave us
shelter, and we were rejoiced by the sight of Fort
Simpson, and the termination of this most disagreeable
trip, on the 5th of October, by which time notable
tokens of winter were displayed; and we had suf-
fered much from the inclemency of the season, the
thermometer having more than once fallen within a
few degrees of zero,—which, I need not remark, is
quite cold enough for boat travelling.

This last expedition must be considered well-nigh
nugatory in every respect, with the almost unimportant
exception of the addition of two or three islands
to those already known about the Mackenzie. From
the tokens in the early part of the summer previous
to our arrival in the Arctic Sea, we had hoped for a
fine and “open” season; these expectations were
entirely void ; worse weather and a more encumbered
sea it would have been difficult to have encountered ;
and, as before remarked, no noteworthy consequences
resulted from the undertaking. Neither Banks’ Land,
the grand aim of the voyage, nor Wollaston Land,
was reached ; nor did we examine the course of that
river which lies between the Mackenzie and_ the

Coppermine—its efflux being in Liverpool Bay, and

376 PROGRAMME FOR THE WINTER MONTHS.

of which nothmg is known but by the reports of
Indians, who call it ‘Soon illay tess,” or the “ known
not river ;’’ by which title, indeed, L’Inconnt, it is
distinguished in the country.

Captain Pullen, myself, and the two marines, were
to remain at Fort Simpson during the winter; the
remainder of our party were dispatched to the fishery
on Great Slave Lake, where many of the Company’s
servants would also be assembled.

Another long winter had now to be passed, a
formidable prospect to those who have few means of
occupation, and less comforts at their disposal. But
we had here, at any rate, more companions and a
nearer approach to civilised life than had been the
lot of some of us last season, and had no intention
of permittimg black ennui to engross eight or ten
long months of our lives. There was a small hbrary
at the Fort, which the gentlemen of the district had
created to while away weariness at their respective
posts; of this we were kindly permitted to avail our-
selves, and found it a great solace. Meteorological
and astronomical observations occupied much of our
time. The dipping-needle, which had been my
faithful companion throughout our wanderings, was
placed in a bastion of the Fort, and also received its

share of attention each day.

EFFECTS OF EXTREME COLD. 377

One must be cautious im handling instruments or
other articles of metal in extreme cold, as the bare
skin is apt to stick to them on contact, and the
sensations then experienced are identical with those
of burning: vé®y frequently when incautiously drink-
ing from a tin-cup which we carried on our journeys,
one’s lips were for an instant glued to its edge ; and in
avery low temperature ice when put into our mouths
would cleave for a second to the tongue. The most
curious instance I ever experienced of the effects of
cold was one whose relation has been received with less
credibility than any other I have made: this was the
existence of ice m the nostrils, and, strange to say,
it was neither painful nor troublesome. I had heard
the fact mentioned at an early period of our arrival,
and must confess that I was myself suspicious of an
attempt to impose upon my credulity, but experience
proved. its truth im my own person.

Our fare at Fort Simpson—Englishmen always think
feeding an important item of existence—was no
doubt luxurious, compared to that which myself and
companions at Bear Lake had _ subsisted on. the
preceding winter, yet it favoured. neither gout nor
bilious tendency. Generally, as is customary in
the country during the winter, two meals a day

were provided : the first occurred at about 10, and

378 FARE AT FORT SIMPSON.

consisted of fish (either roasted, or boiled and mixed
with potatoes, forming a kind of “ twice laid,”’) tea,
and homeeopathic allowances of bread. This was called
breakfast. Supper took place between 4 to 6 accord-
ing to the season, and was the gréiid affair of the
day: dried or fresh rein-deer or moose-meat, rabbits
sometimes, and now and then beaver, bear, or goat's
flesh; tea, bread, and an unfrequent pudding, or
pancake, these comprised nearly all the varieties of
the repast. A small quantity of wine and spirits had
been forwarded from the Red River colony for our
use ; it was, of course, reserved for high days and
holidays, when each heart recalled its absent ones—
loved and loving.

The Mackenzie “set fast’”’ on the 1st of December ;
had the ice continued much longer in motion, I might
possibly have had a tragic tale to relate here. Four
Indians had arrived on the opposite bank on the 18th,
and an endeavour was made to get a boat through the
ice to fetch them, but the attempt was necessarily
relinquished, and they were told as well as the
distance would allow, to make for the “ rapid fishery,”
about five days’ journey from the Fort, where a supply
of fish was stored. ‘T'wo days before the ice stopped,
two Whitemen and two Indians arrived from Fort

Confidence, where Dr. John Rae was wintering previous

DR. RAE’S EXPEDITION. 379

to proceeding on another Arctic expedition (which has
since resulted im his reaching Wollaston Land, and
other valuable consequences, for which partly the
Gold Council Medal of the Royal Geographical
Society was awarded him). These men had been
twenty-six days upon the journey, and had exhausted
their provisions; they were obliged to kill one of,
their dogs next day, but the Indians, although starving,
would not touch its flesh, their superstition holding
that the dog is their brother. Only two of the Indians
who first had arrived had departed for the fishery on
the rapid; the others had remained opposite to the
Fort, and were now in a very low state, being unable
from weakness to cross the river immediately upon

its setting fast.

CHAPTER XXII.

New Year's Day Festival.—Cyclical fluctuation in the breed of Rabbits.—
Conjectured causes, and Indian superstition thereon.— Consequent
effect upon fur-bearing animals—New mode of catching Foxes,—
Severity of Season.—Mercury metamorphosed.—Aurora Borealis.—
Disruption of the Ice.—A. strange prophecy.—Melancholy effects of
superstition——An Indian Marriage—The Fight of the Females.—
Farewell to Fort Simpson.—Fort Resolution—Manufacture of Pem-
mican.—Slave River.— Muddled Moments.—The Hudson’s Bay
Company of Merchant Adventurers.—The Hardy Voyageur.—The
Adventures of a Pack.—Arrival at the Noyé.—A beautiful Caseade.—
Making a Portage.—Burn the Boats.—Fort Chipewyan.—The Chipe-
wyans and Crees, their Language and Idiosyncrasy.—An Indian’s
Remorse.—Mr. Geero’s Predilections.—The Lake of the Hills.—
Natural Pitch—Clear Water River.—Methy Portage.—Mermaid’s
Hair.

New Year's day is the principal festival at the posts
of the Hudson’s Bay Company; that which ushered
in 1850 was ceremoniously observed at Fort Simpson.
‘The men assembled at an early hour in front of the
main dwelling-house, and fired a feu-de-joie in com-
pliment to their officers and the occasion. All then
entered the hall, which is very large for the recep-
tion of Indians, and were welcomed by their Bourgeois
(Mr. Bell), the title always given to the head of the

district, and the other gentlemen of the establishment,

NEW YEAR'S DAY IN THE NORTH. 381

who shook hands with each in turn, addressing to
him at the same time a few complimentary phrases.
The guests then seated themselves upon benches
ranged round the walls of the apartment, and one
of their number assuming the office of Ganymede (ye
Gods, what a satire on the cup-bearer of Jove!),
administered to each a portion of the soul-rejoicing
fluids provided by the Bourgeois, who is yearly
allowed a small quantity of wine, spirits, and shrub.
Healths and good wishes were interchanged ; pipes,
with, their attendant weed produced,—and smoke
and talk now flowed apace. In about an hour the
visitors, having more than once repeated their libations
to Bacchus, rose to withdraw, addressing thankful
acknowledgments to the provider of the treat, and
accepting joyfully an invitation to devote the coming
evening to the worship of 'Terpsichore, and partake
of a feast to be presently prepared. In the afternoon
the company re-assembled in the hall, where a—to
them—sumptuous repast was spread, of which, to
enumerate some of its delicacies, a roasted swan,
deer’s tongues, potatoes, turnips, and a huge plum-
pudding, were items. Dinner having succeeded
drink, was followed by dancing, which was kept up
unflaggingly until after midnight, refreshments being
again provided in the shape of supper. ‘Thus ended

382 INCREASE AND DECREASE OF RABBITS.

New Year’s day in the far north of the Hudson’s
Bay Company’s territories.

It is a very remarkable and well established
circumstance that the rabbits in the north of America
are subject to periodical conditions of increase and
reduction in their numbers. They experience cycles
of progress and decay, comprising about eight or
nine years, and so certain is this law of revolution
that Whites and Indians alike make their calculations
with a view to its occurrence. Overrunning the land
in astonishing quantities one year, these aygimals
gradually lessen their numbers annually, until very
few can be caught ; having arrived at their mimimum,
they then gradually increase, until again reaching
their maximum advance.

This remarkable ebb and flow of life is ascribed
to more than one cause. It is said that the rabbits
migrate at regular intervals to avoid the merciless
persecutions of their many enemies, lynx, wolf, fox,
marten, ermine, and even ravens; but another and
more probable cause assigned is their visitation by an
epidemic which is fatal to myriads. The Indians
have, I was told, an idea that when rabbits are
not to be found near, they have gone up into the
clouds, and that they frequently hear them crying

there.

FISHING FOR A FOX. 383

Whatever may be the cause of this variation it
very importantly affects the fur trade in this region.
The year succeeding that when rabbits are most
plentiful is generally the most prolific m the supply
of those animals before-mentioned whose principal
food they are; and in the same manner the season
following that of their almost entire absence is wofully
deficient in its tribute of fur-bearimg creatures.
Possibly the epidemic which visits the victims may
also affect the ravenous tyrants, whose prey they
become ; but independently of this conjecture there
is no doubt that in the times of scarcity the lesser
beasts of prey are reduced to great hunger, and feed
upon each other. I have several times seen martens
which had been trapped devoured by lynxes. At
Fort Simpson, on one occasion an Indian who was
about to set a hook and line in the river for fish
observed a fox near him, which had been impelled
by starvation to approach the habitation of man in
search of food. He threw the baited hook towards
the animal, it greedily swallowed the deceitful prize
whose acquisition was its capture and its death.

We experienced severe cold at Fort Simpson,
registering more than once 50 below zero; but this
was mild compared to the temperature at Bear Lake,

where my last winter was passed. Dr, Rae wrote

384 AURORA BOREALIS.

to say that the thermometer had been below —70 at
Fort Confidence.

It is very curious to witness the congelation of
mercury, which takes place about —40: when
brought into the atmosphere from a considerably higher
temperature the process is necessarily very gradual ;
the quicksilver slowly contracts itself, a dull film
overspreads the mass, and, immediately previous to
complete congelation, a thin bright fluid appears on
the surface; the substance is then of a doughlike
consistence, and may be indented with a pointed
instrument; but speedily the final change occurs;
King Frost asserts his sway, and the usually restless
metal, which whilom played fast and loose with
finger and dish in its frolicsome gambols, is reduced
to an inert, indurated solid, presentng the appearance
of frosted silver.

Few nights passed without a greater or less display
of the Aurora Borealis, that wondrous phenomenon
whose existence after. more than half a century of
research, is yet unaccounted for satisfactorily. _Lan-
guage is vain in the attempt to describe its ever-
varying and gorgeous phases; no pen nor pencil can
pourtray its fickle hues, its radiance, and its grandeur.
I insert the following notice of a display which

occurred on the 22nd of February, 1851, more as an

AURORA BOREALIS. 385

instance of the wonderful variety of the phenomenon
than in the hope of conveying anything like an
adequate idea of its beauty,—/hat I feel to be
impossible.

“At 10°50 p.m., Aurora appeared in a broad
transverse band of dull diffused light, extending from
E. by S. to W.N.W., passing through the tail of the
Great Bear: two narrow bands of faint light from
the same points passed through the zenith, as
perfectly and regularly defined as if two ribands
were stretched athwart the sky: the space between
them, of equal breadth with themselves, appeared
very dark, either materially so or by contrast.

“To the northward a faint diffused lhght appeared
over dark haze or clouds on the horizon; through
this haze stars were not perceptible.

“At 11, Aurora was further displayed im an
immense mass or bush, which, occupying the space
between E.N.E. and E.S.E., and covering the entire
constellation of Ursa Major, gradually narrowed after
passing the zenith, and thence continued in a ser-
pentine band of moderate breadth to the west, passing
in its route a little to the northward of the Pleiades.
The eastern extremity was of ‘scroll’ or ‘ curtain’
character, with considerable motion (easterly), and

in it prismatic colours were finely developed, red and

cc

-

386 WINTER-LIFE AT FORT SIMPSON.

violet hues predominating ; the entire display was of a
bright greenish golden colour or light. To the north-
ward a few light and faint vertical patches were vasible.

« At midnight a serpentine arch or band—composed
of series of vertical lines in continual motion through-
out its length—extended from H.S.E., considerably
to the southward of the zenith, to W., its vertex
sinking slowly towards the S.W. horizon; in this
also colours were finely though transitorily displayed,
the main body being of the same hue as before.

“Five minutes after midnight this arch suddenly
dispersed itself over all the sky to the northward, and
partly also to the southward, of the zenith m beams,
rays, streamers, and every imaginable disposition
of lines, the most remarkable being innumerable
vertical patches, with which the sky was as it were
powdered, all bright and all in motion; a narrow,
but brilliant serpentine band—a perfect fringe of
blazing light—rose at east, and ran at a small distance
above the horizon, through north to west.

“The weather was clear and calm, but I am
disposed to conjecture that the instantaneous dis-
persion of one portion, which occurred with lightning-
like celerity, and the unceasing motion of the whole
display, were caused by conflicting currents of air in
the higher regions of the atmosphere.”

OPENING OF SPRING. 387

‘The monotony which characterises a winter in
the north was but seldom broken in upon during our
condition of vegetation at Fort Simpson, and we
gladly hailed the first signs of spring, and the
prospect of speedy deliverance from our “ durance
vile.” A wild duck, harbinger of a more genial
season, was killed on the first of May, a goose was
shot next day, and the migrating birds now began
to flock in. On the-4th the long ice-bound river
burst its bonds, and, rising considerably, carried off
huge trees, and masses of drift-wood from the banks,
to add to the vast profusion which we had observed
on the shores of the ocean, to the westward of the
Mackenzie’s mouth.

Our party had received an increase during the
winter by the arrival of Mr. W. Lane, who was to
take charge of Fort de Liard in the spring. Upon
the breaking up of the ice this gentleman prepared
to depart for his post, and I had the good fortune to
share his journey, as I could return with the party
which would bring down the furs collected durmg
the past season.

Mr. Lane had been many years a resident in the
Hudson Bay Company’s territories, and enlivened
our trip with many a pleasant joke and anecdote.

One of these was truly remarkable, and would

cc2

388 INDIAN PROPHECY.

scarcely be held as credible had we not the testi-
mony of an actual witness.

During the time that Mr. Lane was stationed in
New Caledonia he received a visit from an aged
Indian, of the Carrier tribe, who had been with Sir
Alexander Mackenzie in one of his trips of discovery
to the sea coast, and had the reputation of being a
great medicine-man. As he had not’paid a visit to
the fort for several years his appearance excited some
surprise, and he was asked why he came. He
replied that he had come to look at the fort and
its inmates for the last time. “Did you ever,’ said
the old man, “ hear thunder in the winter time?”
Mr. Lane replied in the negative. “Then,” rejoined
the Indian, ‘‘when in two moons’ time you hear
a clap of thunder, send to my lodge and you will
find me dead.”

Within fifteen days of the appointed time Mr. Lane
did indeed hear a solitary burst of thunder; the
nephew of the old Indian, who was the fort inter-
preter, started off directly to his uncle’s lodge, and
on arrival found that he had just expired. The
realisation of this prophecy did not im the least
surprise the rest of the Indians, who had expressed
their entire conviction of its fulfilment.

The superstition of the Indians is a wonderful

INDIAN WEDDING. 389

feature of their character, and they frequently pay
severely for their credulous simplicity. Not many
years ago a report was prevalent amongst those of
the Slave Lake quarter, that their dead had been
restored to life, and had established a fort in the
interior, where food and supplies of all kinds were
to be obtained in profusion. So strong was the
belief, that great numbers made pilgrimages to the
spot designated, and many died of famine and
privation in consequence.
We had not actual experience of the tribes in
what is called the Southern Department, of which
the head-quarters are established at Moose Factory
in James’s Bay, but I was favoured with one or two
interesting anecdotes of that locality by a gentleman
who had lately left the district of the south. Here,
for instance, is an Indian wedding, as it now exists.
The maidens do not marry until they have reached
that age which with them as with us is called sweet
sixteen. The ceremony performed at Moose was
thus described :—the couple go into the store where
goods are dispensed in barter, and each receives a
piece of gingerbread, the man a dram of spirits, the
woman a printed gown-piece, or some other trifle.
‘The bridegroom then declares in presence of witnesses

that he will on no account separate from his wife,

390 WAGER OF BATTLE.

upon whose finger a rmg is put by the interpreter ;
the ceremony is then complete, and is held as
indissoluble. Separation seldom occurs unless the
wife becomes recklessly abandoned, which is a rare
circumstance ; the men are very jealous, and are
liable to retaliate revengefully upon their offending
brothers. Weddings generally take place in the
fall of the year about the time of goose-hunting, and
the happy couple immediately repair to the marshes
to spend the honeymoon. The husband generally
receives a present of ammunition and hastens to pro-
cure a stock of geese with which he feasts his friends.

Two young Indian women were observed some
years ago in violent conflict; they were parted, but
intreated to be permitted to decide the contest as
they would then be friends again; this request,
appearing reasonable, was acceded to, the bystanders
taking care that there should be fair play. After
a lengthened and determined struggle the weakest
succumbed to the superior prowess of her fortunate
adversary. “It appeared that these girls were in love
with the same man, and had self-instituted this mode
of deciding their claims. No wonder they fought
like wild cats. The defeated damsel was so much
enraged at her disappointment that she soon after-

wards shot her rival dead.

FORT RESOLUTION. 391

On my return to Fort Simpson preparations were
already imstituted for our departure, as Captain Pullen
intended to proceed some time in advance of the
yearly brigade. Bidding farewell to the companions
of a long and dreary winter, we quitted Fort
Simpson on the 5th of June, and ascended the
Mackenzie by easy stages.

We reached Big Island on the 13th, remained there
three days, and gained Fort Resolution on the 20th.

This was the neatest and cleanest establishment
we had yet seen; much care was evident in every
department. The houses were built of well split
and squared logs placed edge to edge, and closely
fittmg, and the buildings were enclosed by pickets of
regular height and make.

Pemmican had so often been our food during the
long sojourn in this land of eternal snow and hard
meat, that I was desirous of carrying with me a
specimen of the native material, for the mspection of
the curious in such matters: I was furnished with
a small quantity made after the most approved fashion,
and brought it home all safe, but as I fear I cannot
hand it to each of my readers for examination, I will
briefly describe the process of preparing the article,
for the benefit of those who are not already acquainted

with it. Upon the slaughter of a reindeer or buffalo,

392 METHOD OF PRESERVING MEAT.

the hunter has to consider three modes of disposing
of the carcase. When near a station he generally
puts the animal “ en cache,” surrounding it with logs
and heaping snow over all to keep the wild beasts
from it, a precaution not always successful; the
wolverine, or glutton, being a most determined
marauder. Intelligence is then sent to the Fort,
whence sledges are despatched to bring home the
prize. In this case the meat is fresh, and will of
course remain so, while frozen, for any length of
time. . The other two modes of preparing the flesh
are similar to each other, differing only according to
the caprice of the curer or the distance which
intervenes between the spot where the animal falls
and the destination of the carcase ; in either case the
flesh 1s cut into layers and the bones removed, the
meat is then placed upon stages and subjected to the
action and smoke of slow fires and the sun’s rays ;
by this process it gradually becomes desiccated, the
watery particles evaporate, leaving only the fibre and
sinew. It is according to the completeness of this
process that “dried” or “ half-dried meat” are
obtained. I need not say much about their excellence ;
neither of them is very nice, and we can only give
them the degrees of comparison, bad and worse, but

their preparation is rendered necessary by the great

hed

PEMMICAN—MOSQUITOES. 393

distances which occur between the hunting-grounds
and the forts, and also by the fact that much of the
meat is killed in the summer, and could not therefore
otherwise be kept sound. Dry meat is the principal
component of pemmican. It is pounded fine,
almost to powder, often indeed being passed through
a sieve to intercept the large fragments, and then
placed in a trough where melted fat is poured upon
and well mixed with it. The composition is placed in
a parchment bag, rammed down, and pressed ; when
cool it is like a mass of lead. Fifty-five pounds of
the powdered meat mixed with thirty-five of fat make
a ‘piece’ of pemmican, which the Canadians
facetiously designate “un taureau,’ in allusion to
the buffalo, from which a great part is made.

We remained eight days at Fort Resolution, and
were much indebted to Mr. W. M‘Murray for his
considerate attention to our comfort, which was, not-
withstanding, sadly marred by the unfailing attacks of
myriads of mosquitoes. Murderous crusades, and
innumerable inventions for wholesale slaughter by
fire, smoke, water, gunpowder, &c., were of little avail
against these pests; it seemed, as was remarked by
one of the seamen, that a thousand insects flocked to
the funeral of each one killed, and it was the

best way after all to resign oneself to the plague.

394 SALT RIVER SETTLEMENT.

Mr. M‘Murray and I sought relief from our miseries
in milk and cranberries, and really I am afraid we had
more relish than judgment in the discussion of this
refreshing medley.

On the last day of June we bade farewell to
Mr. M‘Murray and the other denizens of Fort
Resolution, and resumed our journey homewards.
he ascent of Slave River, which we entered a couple
of hours after departure, had little of novelty to
interest wanderers whose thoughts were directed with
eager hope towards home and its relations. On the
7th, Salt River, a small tributary of the Slave River,
was reached. It would be unnoticeable but for the
existence of a half-caste family, who have formed a
tiny colony on its banks, and are content to live on
from year to year in this isolated locality. Their
possessions consisted of several buildings, some cows,
horses and dogs, and two or three small plots of
cultivated ground, in which were potatoes, turnips
and onions. ‘The good folks supplied us with tops of
the latter vegetables, but declined to pull up the roots,
which, they said, always remained in the ground.
My reminiscences of the spot include those of a
triflmg accident, which there occurred to me. Being
about to bathe, as was our daily custom, I jumped

headlong into the stream, and experienced the reward

HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY. 305

of my incaution, by finding myself over head and
hands in soft mud, the water being unexpectedly
shallow: I was fortunate im escaping suffocation.
There can scarcely be found a more wonderful
instance of the combination of ingenuity, perseverance
and endurance, in the search after commercial
prosperity, than is afforded by the Hudson’s Bay Fur
Trading Company, instituted so early as the reign of
Charles II. In the earlier stages of its existence,
only a few positions were established on the shores of
Hudson’s Bay, but the range of operations was
gradually widely extended, and in North America
alone they now hunt over an immense territory, and
give occupation to numerous persons, — Whites,
Indians, and half-castes. From the shores of Hudson’s
Bay in the Atlantic, to Vancouver’s Island and the
Columbia River District on the Pacific, and from the
borders of Canada to the dreary Arctic circle,
isolated stations of the Company are established, often
amid dense forests, and cheerless solitudes. In many
of these, not more than from two to six men pass
long winters of monotonous occupation ; to cut wood
and bring home provisions on sledges are their
principal avocations, and their diet is im many
instances fish, uninterruptedly, or varied by dried meat,

whose ewcellence I have already remarked upon. ‘The

396 PASSAGE OF PELTRIES TO ENGLAND.

transport of goods and peltries to and from the
numerous stations must impress one with a feeling of
admiration at the indomitable energy and laborious
perseverance which overcomes every difficulty and
braves so many dangers to attain its ends. Mountain
and forest, torrent and shallow, extremes of cold, heat
and privation, are encountered and set at defiance by
the enterprising “ voyageur ;’’ where force avails not,
patience and stratagem are successfully resorted to,
disaster only seems to create a new spur, and point out
some new method for the next enterprise. Furs which
are brought from some of the most distant parts in
the Northern Department—of which York Factory in
Hudson’s Bay is the head-quarters—traverse between
3,000 and 4,000 miles ere they reach that post,
whence they are shipped for England, and occupy
nearly a year in their transit, in which they undergo
extraordinary mutations of travel. The furs are made
up into parcels or “ packs,’ weighing eighty-four to
ninety pounds, and pressed by wedges or screws into
the smallest possible compass ; the body of the pack
is generally composed of the smaller and finer skins,
such as muskrat, martens, and otters, of which from
300 to 600 are required; these are enclosed by
skins of the bear, wolf, and remdeer. The packs are

all made of a certain size and shape, and securely

PASSAGE OF PELTRIES TO ENGLAND. 397

bound with stout thongs of hide, called pack-cord,
which in the not unfrequent periods of distress for
food is generally the first substitute for more legitimate
aliment, as by long boiling it acquires a jelly-lke
consistence.

During the winter they are transported on sledges—
a service of a severe nature—to the nearest post from
which water carriage can be made available; and on
the breaking up of the ice in the spring are placed in
large boats, of precisely the same make as that (the
“Try Again”) which we had on our second trip to the
Arctic sea, and which will carry as many as 110
“pieces” or “packs,” nearly ten thousand pounds
weight, but their general load, where the travel is
bad, is, 1 believe, from seventy to eighty pieces.
These boats are manned with nine, seven, or even
five men, and it will presently be seen that the
poor fellows work like horses #indeed I unhesitatingly
assert that I never saw toil to equal, for endurance
and severity, that of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s
servants during the summer season. From two in
the morning until eight or nine, and often later, at
night they are engaged in the most fatiguing labour,
only halting for a short time to breakfast, and supping
_when they land at night, taking a snack of pemmican

as they can catch it during the progress of the boat.

398 DIFFICULTIES OF TRANSIT.

Among the principal of the difficulties which
impede inland navigation and transport m North-
West America, the numerous rapids must be con-
sidered chief: where these are trifling they are
mounted or descended with fully laden boats and
slight inconvenience or delay; but in passing bad
rapids great care, preparation, and skill, become
necessary, and most generally ‘ portages” have to
be made at a great expense of time and labour.
The boats are brought to the foot of the rapid, and
there unloaded, every article being transported on
the men’s backs through the woods to a point of
the stream above the embarrassed locality ; the boats
are then dragged “light ’’ up the rapid, or where
it is very bad, are themselves carried across the
portage, after which they are again speedily laden,
and the party hastens onwards. In the voyage
between Fort Simpsoff and York Factory, nearly
ninety places of greater or less difficulty occur ; some
are of little notice, others dangerous in the extreme,
and these, I need scarcely observe, require very
great skill and practice in their passage. We of the
boat expedition, who might not unreasonably advance
a claim to some credit for knowledge of boats and
their management, were quite incompetent to act in

these positions: there is nearly as much difference

s*

ASCENT OF A RAPID. 399

between a “voyageur’”’ and a sailor, as between the
latter and a landsman, and none but an unreasonable
man would fail to recognise the distinction.

The Noyé Rapid—so named from having caused a
death by drowning—at which we arrived on the 9th,
was formed by a ridge of granite, irregular and
disconnected, lying right across the river, and of
course greatly obstructing the regular course of the
stream. It was necessary to make a portage of the
goods here ; our boat was unladen accordingly, and
the contents carried across a forest point which
borders the river; this portage I conjectured to be
about a quarter of a mile in length. Next morning,
the 10th, the first brigade of the Mackenzie River
district, in charge of Mr. O’Brien, reached our
encampment, and the boats were successively taken
up the rapid by a steersman of great experience
and skill. In the ascent they were partly rowed,
partly tracked up with a stout rope, manned by two
crews united; the steersman stood in the stern
handling the huge sweep, more than twenty feet
long, which serves in place of a rudder, and one
or two men were stationed in the forepart of the
boat to keep her from striking the rocks; about
two and a half hours were expended in the passage

of this rapid, including unloading and loading. _We

400 EMULATION OF VOYAGEURS.

breakfasted at the head of the rapid, and while
so engaged were joined by Messrs. Bell and Ross,
who had brought up the second brigade.

The flotilla was divided into two brigades or bands
for convenience, as the whole number would delay
each other’s progress up the rapids, and embarrass
the portages in the conveyance of goods; for this
reason it is customary for one division to leave head-
quarters some days in advance of the other, but the
emulation of the men is such that the hindmost
party make the most strenuous exertions to reach
the vanguard, and in this they frequently succeed,
as they are generally the stronger and more active.
At a short distance from the Noyé we encountered the
Pelican Rapid; here the craft were entirely cleared
and dragged over a ridge of rocks; the rest of the
rapid was accomplished with great labour and some
risk, the bows of the boats beimg frequently high
upraised and the water rushing in at the stern; at

?

one part of this rapid a “ batteau” was lost last
year. Next came the Mountain, and this being a
regular fall of about ten feet the boats could not of
course ascend it, but were dragged over a steep and
rugged ledge of rocks at an angle of 45° with the
horizon. Hence we proceeded to the Brilé, and

having carried the goods across the portage encamped

PICTURESQUE WATER-FALLS. 401

for the night, as here it was necessary to transport
the boats also by land, a distance of about four
hundred yards. This was accomplished next morning,
and our journey was continued to the Embarras, so
called from the great quantities of drift wood which
obstruct the stream and render a portage of every-
thing necessary. The island rapid was narrow and
swift, but we were enabled to ascend it with half-
laden craft. The “Cassette,” our next difficulty, and
the last rapid im Slave River, was of picturesque
beauty : it was composed of several falls in succession,
one of which, viewed from below, was quite a gem
among Nature’s bountiful productions: the water fell
in dense broken volumes between two portals of
abrupt black rock, steep and massive ; sparkling
silvery spray, diamond-like in the brilliance of its
hues, becapped the mass, dancing and glistening in
the bright sunlight as if in gladness at its freedom ;
a back ground of hilly foliage, varied in light and
colour, perfected this exquisite combination of still
and animated scenery.

This rapid being impassable we had to renew tlhe
labour of a portage, “carrying” over bare rock
for about 400 yards’ distance, over which also the
boats were dragged. A new operation had now

to be performed; the numerous portages over rock

DD

4.02 “BURNING OUR VESSEL.

and rough ground had greatly jagged the sides
and keels of our vessels, which therefore required
“ burning.”

The ragged splinters are cut away, and the wood
smoothed off as well as may be with the crooked
knife—an implement in universal use in the country,
having, as its name implies, a bent blade and handle,
and greatly resembling those used by blacksmiths m
shoeing horses. Large pieces of birch bark, burning
with a fierce and lurid flame, are ignited under the
boat, and grease is rubbed over the bottom to
decrease resistance in passing through the water ;
soft resm is also applied to cracks or holes in the
planks.

In the evening of the twelfth a partial eclipse of
the moon occurred, and we also observed a most
splendid meteor, which bore a train like a bursting
rocket, and so much resembled a comet, remaining
stationary for a considerable time, that we sought for
it next evening, but had no recurrence of the
phenomenon, and concluded that it must have been
a meteor or fire-ball. The weather at this period
was in strong contrast to that of our winter's
sojourn ; during the hottest days we registered 83°
of Fahrenheit in shade, 104° m the sun, and by
concentrating the rays of that body upon a black

LANGUAGE OF THE CHIPEWYANS. 403

substance obtamed as high as 112°. On the 14th
we entered the Riviere de Rocher, thence passed into
the Athabasca Lake, and in the evening landed at
Fort Chipewyan, which was once the head-quarters,
on this side Methy Portage, of the North-West
Company, once the rival of the Hudsons’ Bay
Company, with which however a coalition was formed,
I believe about the year 1827. We were politely
received by Mr. Todd, and at supper were introduced
to the Pere Pharoux, a French missionary of the
Roman Catholic religion, with whom I enjoyed the
privilege of much interesting conversation. Mons.
Pharoux had apparently devoted considerable time
to the study of the Indians in this locality, who
consist chiefly of Chipewyans, or “ Mountains,” and
Crees. The men were mostly tall, well made,
and moderately stout; the females were generally
tall, slight, and well-featured. With reference to the
language of the Chipewyans, Mons. Pharoux observed
that their grammatical rules are distinctly defined,
though eccentric, and of almost infinite variety, certain
terminations or prefixes being applied to words in
classes, or according to the sense in which they were
to be used; as, for instance, things animate or
inanimate, natural or artificial, were distinguished by

certain terms expressing the quality: and here again

DD 2

4.04 DISTINGUISHING CHARACTERISTICS.

another division, if it may so be called, of class,
occurred, for in speaking of a house abstractedly one
term would be used, but when speaking of it in
connection with anything in or about it a new
expression became necessary.

Mons. Pharoux drew a broad line of demarcation
between the characters of the two races. “The
Crees,” said he, “ are quick m comprehension, seizing
an idea with readiness, but, like a mirror, they retain
the impression so long only as the matter is before
them, and the consequence is it has in a short time
to be entirely re-explained. The Chipewyans, on the
contrary, are very slow (not dull) of comprehension,
and preserve a greater impassibility of expression ; so
that often, after explaming a point of difficulty, one
would dismiss them with the idea that they could
not understand it, but would find, on questioning
them afterwards, even at six months’ distance of time,
that they had either understood the subject at once
or had pondered over it until perfect comprehension
was arrived at, and that the impression of the matter
was, moreover, a lasting one.”

I was told here of an Indian of the Beaver tribe,
who, after having experienced with many others the
horrors of starvation in 1849, visited in the spring of

the followmg year the fort at Dunvegen. The

CANNIBALISM. 4.05

gentleman in charge of the Post offered him his hand
in greeting, but it was declined, as were also the
salutations of other Indians present. When asked
the reason of his strange demeanour, he replied, “1
am not worthy to shake hands with men; I am no
longer a man, for I have eaten man’s flesh. It is
true 1 was starving, was dying of hunger; but I
cannot forgive myself; the thought of the act is
killimg me, and I shall die soon, and with content-
ment, for although I still exist I cannot any longer
consider myself a human being.” He had, as I
understood, since died.

This is very different from the conduct of the
Slaves and Dogribs, who seem to have little regret
for the commission of such acts, although the rest
of the tribes regard them with abhorrence (or fear ?)
and will seldom intermarry with them.

This reminds me of an old Indian at Fort Simpson
named Geero, who had, it was said, assisted in the
consumption of eighteen individuals during periods
of starvation, and was reported to prefer human flesh
to any other. While we were wintering at that fort
I was very desirous of going off for a few days into
the woods to try and find remdeer or moose under
the guidance of an Indian, but it so happened that

only Geero was at the fort when my wish was

4.06 SPRINGS OF NATURAL PITCH.

expressed, and that gentleman refused to be my
convoy: after much solicitation and pressing for his
reason, he told the interpreter that the truth of the
matter was he did not dare to trust himself with any
one alone in the woods, as he might be tempted to
treat himself to a repast of his much-esteemed fare.
On the 16th we quitted Fort Chipewyan, and
speedily got out of the “Lake of the Hills,” as that
of Athabasca is frequently called, entering the
“ Hmbarras”—a narrow sluggish stream, apparently
an arm of the Athabasca River, into which we
emerged next day. We encountered on the 18th
some springs of natural pitch, which oozes out of
the ground in a half liquid condition, and hardens
at the surface ; it is used extensively for the boats
which are made in the country.

We now began to find berries tolerably ripe, and
revelled in their refreshing delights ; there were many
kinds, but the most plentiful and the most pleasant
were raspberries, gooseberries and currants, of which
latter two kinds of black preponderated.

The 21st found us at the junction of the Great
and Little Athabasca Rivers; the latter is generally
called the “Clear Water,’ and its title is well
deserved ; we turned off into it, and contimued to

ascend until the Cascade was reached—a small shallow

ITINERARY. 4.07

rapid where it was necessary to unload the boats,
and make a portage of nearly half a mile in length.
After this came the Bonne, of which the portage is
quite a mile long, but here were encamped numerous
Indians with horses, and the men were spared the
labour of “carrying.” Next morning the Bigstone
and Pine Rapids were successively passed with slight
delay, and we reached the Terre Blanche in the
afternoon; this was a succession of short steep falls,
and both goods and boats had to be transported across
the Portage.

On the 26th we arrived at Methy Portage, and
had now no longer to ascend, but would henceforth
continually go down current, unless in lakes, to the
sea. This portage is across a height of land, and as
it is nine or ten miles long, the goods only are
transported on horseback, boats being stationed at
either end, and exchanging their cargoes.

We commenced our descent towards York Factory
on the 30th, poled out of the tiny meandering Loche,
entered the Methy Lake, and thence passed into the
river of the same name—a very narrow and shallow
stream. Buffalo Lake was traversed on the 3lst,
and the lst of August carried us into Deep River,
and Isle a la Crosse Lake; the fort of this name was

reached in the afternoon. Athabasca Lake has a

4.08 CURIOUS PHENOMENON.

remarkable characteristic; the water is perfectly
crowded with green particles like short pieces of
hair: they are apparently separated from vegetation
at the bottom by the agitation of the water, as I
understood that in winter, when frozen over, the lake
is quite clear. The conceit struck me that this was
the hair-cutting saloon of the mermaids and mermen,
and these capillary particles the refuse of their
verdant locks.

It would needlessly occupy the time of my readers
did I detail every circumstance of our rapid downward
route; I shall therefore content myself with mention-
ing only the more remarkable points of this very
interesting journey. Running a rapid is one of the
most exhilarating incidents one can experience ; the
excitement and risk lend enchantment to the occasion,
and one’s spirits rise to the boiling pomt. We were
under the guidance of the first rapid pilot in the
country, who had had charge, for more than twenty
years, of the boats which each season carry supplies
to Methy Portage for the Mackenzie River District,
and convey the furs of that brigade to York
Factory, but even L’Esperance, whose skill and
experience were undoubtedly very great, could not

avoid “ breaking” a boat sometimes.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Running a Rapid—A Rapid Catalogue.—Portage du Diable.—A fatal
disaster.—Tales by the way.—Riviére Maligne.—The “ Pas.” —Norway
House.— Les Portes d’Enfer.—Return home.

We have just arrived at the head of a bad rapid,
and are preparing to “run” it: will you take a seat
with us in the boat, reader, and share the striking
episode ? Come then.

See, our old steersman, who has held the sweep
during ordinary progress, now relinquishes it to
L’Esperance, who will here trust only to his own well-
tried experience and sagacity; the steersman and
bowmen plant themselves in the bows with long poles
to push off from rocks or stones, and assist the guide
in altering the direction of the vessel’s progress.
Hitherto we have been quietly gliding down a
moderate current, but now—‘étes-vous prét P—
tenez !’’ we enter the race, and in an instant are whirled
into the midst of the boiling rapid, and rush headlong
onwards with lightning speed, the water bubbling

and foaming and roarimg around us, spray dashing

410 A DANGEROUS RAPID.

into our faces, and the crew straining at their oars as
if for bare life—now all together, now on one side only,
and now all suddenly backing water at a shout from
the guide, who sees that huge stone right m our
course. Round with the sweep! push off with those
poles! backwater, good oarsmen, or we must strike,
and shall infalliibly smash to pieces! Ha! a long
breath of suspense—hurra! there we go safely past
the rock; but heavens! there is another we cannot
escape; pull men, pull! keep her bow off, boys,
push, hard! Ha! there’s a shock, we’ve struck the
stone, and for an instant hang upon it; the seething
waters rushing past, and in their frantic endeavours to
bear us onward strainmg every plank and _ timber,
which crack loudly. “Ah bon Dieu! Ah Seigneur!
Brisé en morceaux!” such are the impassioned
exclamations which display the alarm and anxiety of
our guide, who redoubles his efforts notwithstanding,
and, actively seconded by the crew—who vie with
him in exertions and noise—he succeeds in releasing
the craft, and, whirlmg round for an instant in a
bubbling eddy, we rush on again like a steam-engine.
Do you see that black abrupt point of rocks, against
which the torrent hurls itself in impotent fury,
dashing high in snowy masses and sparkling foam,

and those surging rollers passing over rocky obstruc-

THE TRIAL PASSED. 411

tions, beyond which the angry stream hangs for a
moment in gurgling gyrations—then speeds on again
im wild career? At that spot there is a dangerous
turn of the stream, and a right difficult task shall
we have to guide our frail bark in safety beyond
that frowning extremity, and through those lurking
obstacles. Steady, lads, steady : mind your oars and
watch me well,—pull easy for a moment,—now pull !
pull! don!’ easy now, easy; now pull hard the
larboard, backwater the starboard oars !—Oh Ciel ! !
nous sommes crevé sur le roche! push off with the
poles—pull! larboard oars push, push! backwater,
starboard, back—push, push! there, she turns! push,
pull !—we rush frantically onwards at furious speed—a
moment of intense excitement and uncertainty, then,
Ah, grand Dieu, merci! relaxed speed and smoother
water tell that the difficulty is passed. Our own trial
is ended; let us turn to watch the fortunes of our
companion boats. See, the foremost nears the crooked
channel, the crew pulling lightly and quietly in
preparation for the approaching struggle: now the
steersman shouts lustily to his crew, and vigorously
plies the long sweep to swing his boat; the rowers
labour at their oars lke tigers; the bowmen shift
ther poles from spot to spot, as each emergency

needs, and our comrade hurries towards the narrow

4.12 NARROW ESCAPE.

bend; but see, see! they will strike, they will be
smashed to atoms. They are lost! Push off, good
bowmen !—push, brave fellows! There!! No—they
are safe! That pole held its footing well ; and, just
brushing the rock, the boat swings lightly off, and is
im a moment reposing quietly by our side. The next
barge approaches the dangerous pomt; she also
seems to be running into the very jaws of destruction,
but her bilge strikes one of the hidden stones. She
hangs for a moment, is swung round by the resistless
current, and now, headmg right down the channel,
releases herself from the stone, and gains the tranquil
space below the rapid. But look, look! her crew
are pulling in haste for the shore, and shouting loudly
for aid: the boat is stove, and rapidly fillmg. We
hasten to her side; and in a few seconds eighty
packs of furs are transferred from her to our craft,
and we all hurry to shore, and drag her up on the
beach, where she is speedily repaired.

Such are some of the incidents which attend the
descent of dangerous rapids, which I need scarcely
observe are formed by obstruction of the course of
the stream, or by a sudden and irregular incline in
its bed. Few scenes can be more stirring; the
rushing waters, full of whirlpools, hidden rocks, and

counter-currents, foaming, bubbling, roaring, and

ITINERARY. 413

madly bounding onwards—the consciousness of risk
to be incurred by a single error or accident, and the
mingled cries of the boatmen, half French-Canadian,
half English, present as wild a scene as could be
witnessed.

The Puise, Crooked, Middle, and Knee rapids,
Knee and Sandy lakes, the Serpent Rapid, the
Serpent and Moose lakes, the Pin, Birchwood,
and Canot Tourné rapids, were successively passed on
the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th; then proceeded we through
the Lake of the Bear islets, this having, although called
a lake, a strong current running through, and several
rapids in it, of which I pause only to mention the
Rapide qui ne parle pas, so called from its silent,
though swift course, and the Cardinal, whose. ways
were very crooked. Next, passing the Willow
Portage, we entered Trout Lake, and the Trout and
Kcore rapids, pulled through the Lake des Ecores,
and descended the Bigstone river, in which were
several rapids; then came the Lakes des Cotes and
du Diable, followed by a rapid and a portage also
assigned to his Satanic Majesty. We now reached
the other rapid, separating the smaller Diable from
the Otter Lake. It was very deep, although turbulent,
and little hazard was incurred in running it, but its

ascent is not so safe. I was told that Sir John

414 ANOTHER DANGEROUS RAPID.

Franklin’s canoe capsized here in 1822, on his first
expedition to the Mackenzie, and one of the crew
was drowned. In running the Mountain Rapid one
of the boats was badly “stove,” but such accidents
occurred so frequently, that they were disregarded,
except for the delay occasioned by the necessary
repairs. Almost every Hudson’s Bay man is a rough
carpenter, and a hole is speedily patched up with a
piece of plank, some resin, and a few nails. On
the 7th we met the Athabasca Brigade, and shortly
afterwards encountered a brigade of boats under
My. Anderson, of which three were laden with pem-
mican and flour, for the use of any portion of the
sought or searching expeditions which might ascend
the Mackenzie.

The grand Rapid du Fort de Traite required great
judgment in its descent, having three successive
stages of passage. Here five or six years ago an
English half-caste lost his life; having missed his
footing im the boat of which he was bowman, he
pitched headlong into the seething torrent, and was
drowned : his term of service had just expired, and
he was returning to the Red River colony, accom-
panied by his wife and family, who at the time
of the disaster were quietly seated at the foot of

the rapid, awaiting the descent of the boats, and

A WHOLE DAY SPENT IN POLING. 415

little expecting, poor things! their sad and sudden
bereavement.

This route has been travelled over for so many
years, that there was a tale for almost every day’s
journey. Here a man was drowned; there one was
buried ; at this spot stood a fort im the time of the
two companies; in that direction a quarrel occurred
between their servants; and innumerable trifling
incidents, or other points of interest, fill wp the inter-
mediate distances ; nor is superstition absent herein.
In the case of the poor fellow whose death I have
above noticed, there were legends of corpse candles
and other omens having been seen, the night before
he met his fate, by two persons at a distance from
each other.

At the Portage du Bouleau the empty boats were
lowered down the rapid with ropes, the stream being
shelving, swift, and shallow. In the “ Accursed”
River an entire day was passed in poling, or dragging
over stones and rocks, rough and sharp, and in many
places scarcely covered by the stream, whose velocity
was, notwithstandmg, very considerable; and the
boats were all much injured. Cumberland Lake and
House were reached on the 13th, and the “Pas,”
a missionary station presided over by the Rev.

Mr. Hunter, next morning. A very neat church had

416 MISSIONARY STATION.

‘been built here, and great progress has, I believe,
been made in the conversion of the Indians in this
locality. We were indebted to Mr. Hunter for sup-
plies of eggs, bread, and vegetables; these were
grand luxuries to us in those days. The Grand
Rapid at the entrance to Lake Winnipeg is one of
the longest in the country: it is swift and turbulent ;
but being very deep, may be passed in safety. with
moderate caution. We were twenty-five minutes
running it, and then entered Lake Winnipeg; and on
the 18th reached Norway House, one of the most
important of the inland stations; it is extensive, and
in fine order, having a large garden in full cultivation,
for which it did not seem ungrateful, producing flowers
and vegetables in profusion. Chief Factors Ross
and Barnston, with their families, were here, the
former being about to resign the charge of the post,
which he had held for many years, to the latter
gentleman: I feel bound to acknowledge, with
pleasure, their kind and courteous attentions. .

On the 21st, two very bad rapids, called Les
Portes d’Enfer, had to be run; and notwithstanding
the great experience and exertions of our guide and
steersmen, not a single boat escaped injury.

Oxford House, in Oxford Lake, was touched at on

the 23rd; during the three followmg days we

AT HOMER. 417

descended the Hill and Steel rivers, the former of
which is full of bad rapids** entered the Hay River on
the 27th, and early in the morning of the 28th,
reached York Factory in Hudson’s Bay, the long-
desired end of a wearying though interesting journey,
in boats, of nearly three months.

The Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship, “ Prince of
Wales,” which annually visits York Factory with
supplies, and bears back a freight. of furs, lay in the
roads, and by her we were to return to England ; but
as her lading was not yet complete, we remained at
the Factory for ten days, which were passed pleasantly
enough in the agreeable society of its inmates. |
~ On the 7th of September we embarked, with other
passengers, on board the “ Prince of Wales,” sailed on
the 9th, and, having had a very rapid passage of
three weeks, reached Old England after an absence of
nearly four years, half frantic with delight to be once

more

AT HOME.

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